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A

DICTIONARY

OF

EVERY-DAY WANTS

CONTAINING

TWENTY THOUSAND RECEIPTS

IN NEARLY EVERY DEPARTMENT OF HUMAN EFFORT

BY

A. E. YOUMAN, M. D.

NEW YORK
FRANK M. REED, PUBLISHER
I 39 EIGHTH STREET

1877.

Annex“ glassy.

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LIBRARY

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PREFACE.

In these days of steam and electricity, when every man is jostling and
crowding his neighbor in the race for wealth and independence, every
hour, every minute has its money value. To economise time by its
admirably arranged contents; to save money by its multitudinous hints
and aids; to relieve perplexities that are ever occurring in our daily plans
of life by its numberless suggestions; to promptly offer remedies when}
sudden death is threatened, as in accidental poisoning, will be found to be
embodied in the following pages, and so be an aid to the progressive
hurrying spirit of the age. '

In its editing and compiling, the principal aim has been to render it as
extensively useful as possible, and no exertion has been spared to make
the work a correct, comprehensive and conveniently arranged manual of
reference to the Housekeeper, Manufacturer, Tradesman and Agriculturist.
It will be found to contain directions for the preparation of several thou-
sand articles of interest and utility, many of which have never appeared in

print before.

Care has been taken to avoid all difficult, technical and scientific terms,
and to make it so simple in language and arrangement, as to insure its
value as a useful and reliable work for every-day reference.

A. E. Y.

022

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Page
Accidents and [Emergencies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II

Aim”! . . . . . . . . . . _. . . . . . . . . 20
Carpenter and Builder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Cements, Glues and Pastes V. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Cooking and Baking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4o
Druggist and Chemist . . . . I. . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Domestic Animals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Farm, Orchard, Garden and Dairy . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Household Miscellany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
’Household Pets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Household Pests . . . . . '. . . . . . . . . . I 73
Hunting, Trapping and Tanning . . . . . . . . . . . . I76
Inks and Blacking . . . . . . . . . L . . . . . . . 197
Medical and Surgical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
Ornamental Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242

Painting and Paperzng (Including Varnishing, Polishing, Staining
andGilding) 250

Photography and the Fine Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
Preserving and Storing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
Soap and Candles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
Toilet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
. )Wara’rooe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
Washing, Bleaching and Dyeing. . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
Wines, Liquors and Vinegar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362
Workers in Glass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
Workers in Metals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397
Miscellaneous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447

When an article cannot be found by its proper alphahetic arrangement,
under any of the above sections, a reference to the very copious index at the
.\ end of the work, will lead to its discovery.

10

A DICTIONARY OF EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

ACCIDENTS AND EMERGENCIES.

ACCIDENTS, To Avoid and Prevent—In
walking the streets keep out of the line of cellars,
and never look one way and walk another. 2.
Never ride with your arm or elbow outside any
vehicle. 3. Never alight from a steam-car
while in motion. 4. In stepping from any
wheeled vehicle while in motion, let it be from
the rear, and not in front of the wheels; for
then, if you fall, the wheels cannot run over
you. 5. Never attempt to cross a road or street
m a hurry, in front of a passing vehicle; for if
you stumble or slip you will be run over. Make
up the half minute lost in waiting until the ve-
hicle has passed by increased diligence in some
other direction. 6. In a run-away, it is safer,
as a rule, to keep your place and hold fast than
to jump out. Getting out of a carriage over the
back, provided you can hold on a little while, is
safer than springing from the side. 7. Be par-
ticularly cautious when upon or in the vicinity of
water. 8. During a time of lightning avoid the
neighborhood of trees, or any leaden spout,
iron gate, or other conductor of electricity. 9.
Lay loaded guns in safe places, and'never imi-
tate firing a gun in jest. Io. Never sleep near
lighted charcoal; if drowsy at any work where
charcoal fires are used, take the fresh air. 11.
Never blow out the gaslight, but turn it off, and
before retiring see that none of it esca es. 12.
When benumbed with cold beware 0 sleeping
out of doors; exercise yourself vigorously; rub
yourself, if able, with snow, and do not hastily
approachvthe fire. I 3. If caught in a drenching
rain, or if you fall in the water, keep in motion
sufficiently vigorous to prevent the slightest
chilly sensation until you reach the house; then
change your clothing with great rapidity before
a blazing fire, and drink instantly a int of some
hot liquid, not spirituous. 14. Be ore entering
vaults or dry wells see if a lighted candle will
burn at the bottom; for if not, animal life can-
not exist, and the foul air in it should be re-

laced by pure air before entering therein. 15.
Never leave saddle or draught horses, while in
use, by themselves; nor go immediately behind
a led horse, as he is apt to kick. 16. Ride not on
footways, and walk not on carriage roads or rail—
road tracks. 17. Be wary of children, whether
they are up or in bed, and particularly when
they are near the fire, an element with which
they are very apt to amuse themselves. 18.
Leave nothing poisonous open or accessible, and
never omit to write the word “ POISON” in large
letters upon it, wherever it may be placed. 19.
Never throw pieces of orange peel on the side-
walk, or throw broken glass bottles into the
streets. 20. Never meddle with gunpowder by
candlelight. 21. Never trim or fill a kerosene

 

lamp while lighted, and never high a fire witk
kerorene or coal oil. 22. Keep lucifer matches in
their cases, and never let them be strewed
about. 23. During frosty weather take extra
care in walking. 24. Have your horses’ shoes
roughed directly there are indications of frost.
25. Before retiring tor the night, carefully look
through the house to see that everything is as it
ought to be.

BITES, Han/est Bug—The most effectual
remedy is benzine, which immediately kills the
insect.—A minute drop of tincture of iodine has
the same effect.—Many sufferers prevent the at-
tacks by sprinkling a little benzine over the
stockings before walking.

BIYES, [mat—Such as bees, wasps, hor-
nets, scorpions, etc., may be instantly relieved
by the immediate and free application of spirits
of hartshorn as a wash to the part bitten. The
part may afterward be covered with a little sweet
oil. See Stings.

B] T ES, Mad Dog—1. Take immediately
warm vinegar or tepid water; wash the wound
clean therewith and then dry it ; pour upon the
wound, then, ten or twelve drops of m‘uriatic
acid. Mineral acids destroy the poison of the
saliva, by which means the evil effects of the lat-
ter are neutralized—2. Many think that the only
sure preventive of evil following the bite of a.
rabid dog, is to suck the wound immediately,
before the poison has had time to circulate with
the blood. If the person bit cannot get to the
wound to suck it, he must persuade or pay an-
other to do it for him. There is novfear of
any harm following this, for the poison entering
by the stomach cannot hurt a person. A spoon- -
ful of the oison might be swallowed with impu-
nity, but the person who sucks the place should
have no wound on the lip or tongue, or it might
be dangerous. The precaution alluded to is a
most important one, and should never be omitted
prior to an excision and the application of lunar
caustic in every part, especially the interior and
deep-seated portions. No injury need be antici-
pated if this treatment is adopted promptly and
efiectively. The poison of hydrophobia remains
latent on an average six weeks; the part heals
over, but there is a pimple or wound, more or
less irritable; it then becomes painful, and the
germ, whatever it is, ripe for dissemination into
the system, and then all hope is gone. Never-
theless, between the time of the bite and the ac-
tivity of the wound previous to dissemination,
the caustic of nitrate of silver is a sure reventv
ive; after that it is as useless as allt e other
means. The best mode of ap lication of the ni-
trate of silver, is by introducing it solidly into
the wound.

12 DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

BITES, Snakes—The poison inserted by the
stings and bites of many venomous reptiles is so
rapidly absorbed, and of so fatal a description, as
frequently to occasion death before any remedy
or antidote can be applied; and they are ren-
dered et more dangerous from the fact that these
woun s are inflicted in parts of the country and
world where precautionary measures are seldom
thought of, and generally at times when people
are least prepared to meet them. I. In a sence
of any remedies, the first best plan- to adopt on
being bitten by any of the poisonous snakes is to
do as recommended above in Mad Dog Bites
—viz., to wash off the place z’mmea’z'alely ; if
possible, get the mouth to the spot, and forcibly
suck out all the poison, first applying a ligature
above the wound as tightly as can be borne.—2.
A remedy promulgated by the Smithsonian In-
stitute is to take 30 grs. iodide potassium, 3o
grs. iodine, I 02. water, to be applied external/y
to the wound by saturating lint or batting—the
same to be kept moist with the antidote until the
cure be effected, which will be in one hour, and
sometimes instantly.—3. An Australian physi-
cian has tried and recommends carbolic acid, di-
luted and administered internally every few min-
utes until recovery is certain.——4. Another Aus-
tralian hysician, Professor Halford, of Mel-
bourne niversity, has discovered that if a proper
amount of dilute ammonia be injected into the
circulation of a patient suffering from snake-bite,
the curative effect is usually sudden and start-
ling, so that in many cases men have thus been
brought back, as it were, by magic, from the
very shadow of death. The method finally
adopted by Professor Halford, after many exper-
iments, and approved by his associates, is this :
As soon as possible after a bite, which, without
treatment, threatens life, thirty drops of the
liquor ammoniae (not liquid ammonia) in water
—one part of the ammonia and two parts water
—are injected, by a hypodermic syringe, directly
into some superficial vein of the patient. Of
course, none but a skilled or practiced hand
should undertake the operation, since the acci-
dent of injecting a small bubble of air with the
solution might be fatal. There is no stage of
exhaustion, so lon as life remains, in which
there is not hope 0 success by this remedy. A
small syringe with a sharp point, for the purpose
of making the injection, is manufactured and
sold in Melbourne, and now few travel in that
country without one.

BITES, 0f t/zz Colma—The bite of the co-
bra, says an experienced surgeon of India, or of
any other poisonous snake or reptile, can be
cured by administering a few drops of a prepa-
ration of the gall of the cobra, which should be
prepared as follows: Pure spirits of wine, or 95
per cent. alcohol, or the best high wines that can
be procured, 200 drops; of the pure gall, 20
drops ; in a clean two-ounce phial, corked with a
new cork; give the phial x 50 or 200 shakes, so
that the gall may be thoroughly mixed with the
spirits, and the preparation is ready for use. In
case of a bite put five drops (no more) of the
preparation into half a tumblerful of pure water ;
pour the water from one tumbler into another,

ackwards and forwards, several times, that the
preparation may be thoroughly mixed with the
water, and administer a large tablespoonful of
the mixture every three or five minutes until the
whole has been given. In case the violence of

 

the pain and hemorrhage or swelling of the bit-
ten part should be but slightly alleviated after
the whole has been taken, repeat the dose, pre-

ared with the same quantity of the preparation,
in the same way, and administer as before. In
curing upwards of fifty cases of snake bites I
have never been obliged to repeat the dose ex-
cept in two instances, and have never lost a case.
The coéra poison is no more deadly than that of
a great variety of snakes found in South Amer-
ica, of which may be named the Carcabel, or
Rat/lemake ; Boqzti-dorada, or gilded mouth;
Mapmza-mpo, or frog-headed Mapana; Mafia-
na-fina, or Lac/zest}; Nz'rei, Birn', and Vern;-
gom, or wart snake. T e poison of all these
varieties produces death (under certain condi—
tions—atmospherical, physical, climaterical, and
electrical) in from fifteen minutes to two or three
hours ; but it is found that the gall of each va-
riety (administered as previously indicated) is
the perfect antidote for its own poison. The
gall of the most deadly kind may be used in
cases of bites of those less virulent, and is also
applicable in cases of. bites of the centipede,
scorpion, stingray, star—lizard, or Lacerta rtella,
and is also very effective in dog-bites.

BLEEDING 0F WOUNDS.—See Cuts.

BLEEDING AT TIIE NOSE.—-I. Roll
up a piece of paper, and press it up under the
upper lip.—2. In obstinate cases blow a little
gum Arabic up the nostrils through a quill,
which will immediately stop the discharge; pow-
dered alum is also good—3. Pressure by the
finger over the small artery near the all; (wing)
of the nose, on the side where the blood is flow-
ing, is said to arrest the hemorrhage immedi-
ately.

BLEEDING FROM THE LUNGS—A
New York physician has related a case in which
inhalation of very dry persulphate of iron, re-
duced to a palpable powder, entirely arrested
bleeding from the lungs, after all the usual rem-
edies, lead, opium, retc., had failed. A small
quantity was administered by drawing into the
lungs every hour during part of the night and
following day.

BURNS AND SCALDS.-—I. By putting
the burned part under cold water, milk, or other
bland fluid, instantaneous and perfect relief from
all pain will be experienced. On withdrawal,
the burn should be perfectly covered with half an
inch or more of common Wheaten flour, put on
with a dredging box, or in any other way, and
allowed to remain until a cure is effected, when
the dry, caked flour will fall off, or can be soft-
ened with water, disclosing a beautiful, new and
healthy skin, in all cases where the bums have
been superficial.-—2. Dissolve white lead in flax-
seed oil to the consistency of milk, and apply
over the entire burn or scald every five minutes.
It can be applied with a soft feather. This is
said to give relief sooner, and to be more per-
manent in its effects, than any other application.
—-3. Make a saturated solution of alum (four
ounces to a quart of hot water). Dip a cotton
cloth in this solution and apply immediately on
the burn. As soon as it becomes hot or dry,
replace it by another, and continue doing so as
often as the cloth dries, which at first will be
every few minutes. The pain will immediately
cease, and after twenty-four hours of this treat-
ment the burn will be healed, especially if com-
menced before blisters are formed. The asp

ACCIDENTS AND EMERGENCIES.

‘ tringent and drying qualities of the alum will.en-
tirely prevent their formation.—4. Glycerme,
five ounces; white of egg, four ounces; tincture
of arnica, three ounces. Mix the glycerine and
white of egg thoroughly in a mortar, and grad-
ually add the arnica. Apply freely on linen rags
night and morning, washing prevrously w1th
warm castile soapsuds.—5. Take I drachm'of
finely powdered alum, and mix thoroughly With
the white of 2 eggs and I teacup of fresh lard;
spread on 'a cloth, and apply to the parts burnt.
It gives almost instant relief from pain, and, by
excluding the air, prevents excessive inflamma-
tory action. The application should be changed
at least once a day.——6. M. Joel, of the Chil-
dren’s Hospital, Lausanne, finds that a tepid
bath, containing a couple of pinches of sulphate
of iron, gives immediate relief to young children
who have been extensively burned. In a case of
achild four years old, a bath repeated twice a
day—20 minutes each bath—the suppuration de-
creased, lost its odor, and the little sufferer was
soon c0nvalescent.—7. For severe scalding, car-
bolic acid has recently been used with marked
benefit. It is to be mixed with 30 parts of the
ordinary oil and lime water to I part of the acid.
Linen rags saturated in the carbolic emulsion
are to be spread on the scalded parts, and kept
moist by frequently smearing with a feather
dipped in the liquid. Two advantages of this
mode of treatment are, the exclusion of air, and
the rapid healing by a natural restorative action
without the formation of pus, thus preserving
unmarred the personal appearance of the pa-
tient—a matter of no small importance to some
people.

CY€A1VIP.-—Spasmodic or involuntary contrac-
tions of the muscles, generally of the extremi-
ties, accompanied with great pain. The muscles
of the legs and feet are those most commonly
affected with cramp, especially after great exer-
tion. The best treatment is immediately to
stand upright, and to well rub the part with the
hand. The application of strong stimulants, as
spirits of ammonia, or of anodynes, as opiate
liniments, has been recommended. When cramp
occurs in the stomach, a teaspoonful ,of sal vola-
tile in water, or a dram glassful of good brandy,
should be swallowed immediately. When cramp
comes on during cold bathing, the limb should
be thrown out as suddenly and violently as pos—
sible, which will generally remove it, care being
also taken not to become flurried nor frightened;
as presence of mind is very essential to personal
safety on such an occasion. A common cause of
cramp is indigestion, and the use of acescent
liquors; these should be avoided.

C U T S.—First stop the bleeding, by bringing
the edges of the wound together, if the flow is
but trifling. If, on the contrary, it is large, of a
bright vermillion color, and flows in spirts or
with a jerk, an artery is severed, and at once
should pressure be made on the parts by the
finger, (between the cut and the heart,) until a
compress is arranged by a tight ligature above
.the wounded part. Then the finger may be
taken off, and if the blood still flows, tighten
the handkerchief, or other article that forms the
ligature, until it ceases. If at this point the at-
tendance of a physician or surgeon cannot be
secured, take strong silk thread, or wax together
three or four threads, and cut them into lengths
of about a foot long. Wash the parts with

 

I3

warm water, and then with a sharp hook or
small pair of pincers in your hand, fix your eye
steadfastly upon the wound, and directing the
ligature to be slightly released, ou will see the
mouth of the arter from w ich the blood
springs. At once seize it, draw it out a little,
while an assistant passes a ligature round it, and
ties it up tight with a double knot. In this way
take up in succession every bleeding vessel you
can see or get hold of. If the wound is too high
up in a limb to apply the ligature, do not lose
your presence of mind. If it is the thigh, press
firmly on the groin; if in the arm, with the
hand-en'd or ring of a common door-key make.
pressure above the collar-bone, and about its
middle, against its first rib, which lies under it.
The pressure should be continued until assist-
ance is procured and the vessel tied up. If the
wound is on the face, or other place where pres-
sure cannot effectually be made, place a piece of
ice directly over the wound, allowing it to re-
main there until the blood coagulates, when it
may be removed, and a compress and bandage
be applied. .

After the bleeding is arrested the surrounding
blood should be cleared away, as well as any ex-
traneous matter; then bring the sides of the,
wound into contact throughout the whole depth,
in order that they may grow together as quickly
as possible, retaining them in their position by-
strips of adhesive plaster. If the wound be
deep and extensive, the wound itself and the ad-
jacent parts must be supported by proper band-
ages. The position of the patient should be
such as will relax the skin and muscles of the
wounded part. Rest, low and unstimulating-
diet, will complete the requirements necessary to.
a speedy recovery.

BROWNING, To Rertore the A pparmtljn—
Lose no time. Handle the body gently, carry—
ing it with the head slightly raised, and never-
holding it up by the feet. While medical assist-.
ance is being sent for, remove the clothing from
the body, rub it dry; then roll it in hot blankets.
and place it in a warm bed in a warm room.
Cleanse away the froth and mucus from the nose'
and mouth. Apply warm bricks, bottles, ba 5
of sand, etc., to the arm-pits, between the thig s
and at the soles of the feet. Rub the surface of
the body with the hands inclosed in warm, dry
worsted socks. Ta Rex/ore Breaking—While
the patient is lying with the face downwards,
place one of the arms under the forehead, as in\
this position fluids will more readily escape by
the'mouth, d the tongue itself will fall for-.
ward, leavinahe entrance to the windpipe free.
Assist this operation by wiping and cleansing;
the mouth. If there be only slight breathing.
or no breathing, turn the patient on the side, and‘
excite the nostrils with snuff, hartshorn, or‘
smelling salts, or tickle the throat with a feather,
etc. Rub the chest and face well, and dash
warm and cold water alternately on them. If
there is still no success, try to imitate breathing
by replacing the patient with face downwards,
raising and supporting the chest on a folded coat
or other article. Then turn the body very
gentl on one side and a little beyond, and
brisky back again, repeating these measures
cautiously and perseveringly about 15 times a.
minute. By placing the patient on his chest,
the weight of the body forces the air out. When.
turned on one side the pressure is removed, and:

r4 DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

air enters the chest. When the body is replaced
on the face, use uniform pressure between the
shoulder-blades or bones on each side, and let
one person attend solely to the movement of the
head and of the arm placed under it. Dry the
hands and feet, and as soon as dry clothing or
blankets can be procured, strip the body and re-
clothe it, taking care not to interfere with the ef-
forts to restore breathing.

Should these efforts not prove successful in
five minutes, grasp the arms above the elbow,
and draw them gently upwards above the head,
keeping them stretched upwards for two sec-
onds. By this means air is drawn into the
lungs. Then turn down the arms, and press
them gently for two seconds against the sides of
the chest. By this means air is pressed out of
the lungs. Repeat these motions perseveringly,
about fifteen times in a minute, until a spontane-
ous effort to respire is perceived.

After the natural breathing is restored, pro-
mote warmth and circulation by rubbing the
limbs upwards by means of flannels, etc. By
this process the blood is propelled towards the
heart. Apply hot flannels, or bottles of hot
water, to the it of the stomach, the arm-pits,
thighs, and so es of the feet. If the power of
swallowing be restored, small quantities of wine,
warm brandy and water, or coffee, should be ad-
ministered. Keep the atient in bed, and let
sleep be encouraged. T is treatment should be
persevered in for hours, as it is a mistake to
fancy that persons are irrecoverable because life
does not soon make its appearance. Do not al.
low any crowding round the body, and under no
circumstances hold it up by the feet, or put it in
awarm bath, unless under medical directions.
Cautz'om.—-Never rub the body with salt or
spirits. Never roll the body on casks. Con-
tinue the remedies for 12 hours without ceasing.
The appearances which generally accompany
death by drowning are suspension of the motion
of the heart, the eyelids half closed and the pu-
pils dilated, the jaws clenched, the fingers half
contracted, the tongue approaches to the under
edge of the lips, and these, as well as the nos-
trils, are covered with a frothy mucus, and cold-
ness and pallor increase.

DROWN/NG, Ta Aflrd Arrirttmtt to a
Person in Danger of.—-If the spectator is unable
to swim, and can make the sufferer hear, he
ought to direct him to keep his hands and arms

, under water until assistance comes; in the

meantime throw towards him a rope, a pole, or
anything that may help to bringdzim ashore or
on board; he will eagerly seize atever is put
within his reach; thus he may, perhaps, be res-
cued from his perilous situation.

The best manner in which an expert swimmer
can lay hold of a person he wishes to save from
sinking, is to grasp his arm firmly between the
shoulder and the elbow; this will prevent him
from clasping the swimmer in his arms, and thus
forcing him under water, and, perhaps, causing
him to sink with him.

DRUNKENNESS, A pflanvzt Death from.
—Raise the head, unloose the clothes, maintain
warmth of surface, and give a mustard emetic as
soon as the person can swallow.

E YE, Cin._ "r or Dirt in tiara—The cinder or
other foreign substance will usually be found just
underneath the margin of the upper lid, where
there is a groove or gutter for the flow of tears

 

to the inner angle of the eye. Foreign bodies 0
tend to fall into this groove, and if they are an-
gular, like a cinder, they adhere in spite of the
current of tears which now flow in greater
abundance, and sooner or later carry off smooth
substances. To remove it, take, say a lead pen-
cil, in the fingers of the right hand, and with
the thumb and forefinger of the left hand seize
the eyelashes of the upper lid, ‘and drawing the
lid gently out from the ball, press the point of
the pencil downward upon the upper surface of
the lid, about one-fourth of an inch from its
margin, and at the same time carry the margin
upward over the pencil by the eyelashes, when
the lid will readily roll over the pencil so as to
expose completely the gutter described, when
the cinder or grain of sand may easily be re-
moved with the point of a pencil, or with the
finger covered by a handkerchief. The person
operated upon should look downward when the
lid is being reverted, and upward when the ope-
rator wishes to restore the lid. As soon as the
substance is removed, bathe the eye with cold
water, and exclude the light for a day.

FAINT]NG.—If a man faint away, instead
of yelling out like a savage, or running to him
to lift him up, lay him at full length on his back
on the floor, loose the clothing, push the crowd
away, so as to allow the air to reach him, and
let him alone. Dashing water over a person in a
simple fainting fit is a barbarity. The philos-
ophy of a fainting fit is that the heart fails to
send the proper supply of blood to the brain.
If the person is erect, that blood has to be
thrown up hill; but if lying down, it has to be
projected horizontally, which requires less pow-
er, as is apparent.

F1305 T ~81 T E.—~Take the person frost-bit-
ten into a cold room in which there is no fire,
and rub the parts frozen with snow or cold wa-
ter. After a while friction with flannels and the
hand is to be used, and warmth very gradually
applied. If a limb is frozen, the cold applica~
tions should be continued longer, and warmth
be more gradually applied than when the whole
body is frozen. Care should be taken to handle
the parts carefully, so as not to break off any
part, as can so easily be done in its frozen state.
Frozen Feet are said to be permanently relieved
by two or three applications of a boiled lye of
wood ashes, made so strong as to be quite slip-
pery between the fingers. This lye should set-
tle, be drained off, and have a large handful of
salt to each quart of lye mixed with it. It
should be quite warm, and the limbs be sub-
merged for one or two hours.

FIRE [NA CHIMNEY, To Extinguish—
One of the simplest methods is to scatter a hand—
ful of flowers of sulphur over the dullest part of
the burning coals, the mephitic vapors arising
from which will not support combustion, and
consequently extinguish the flames. Another
method is to shut the doors and windows, and
to stop up the bottom of the chimney with a
piece of wet carpet or blanket, throwing a little
water or flowers of sulphur, or salt, on the fire
immediately before doing so. By this means the
draught is stopped, and the burning soot must
be extinguished for want of air.. If the chimney
be stopped at the top, instead of the bottom, the
whole of the smoke must, of course, be driven
into the apartment. If every fireplace were pro-
vided with a damper, or shutter of sheet-iron 9:

ACCIDENTS AND. EMERGENCIES.

tin plate, sufficiently large to choke it thoroughly,
fires in chimneys would become of little conse-
quence, as it would only be necessary to apply
this damper to put them out.

FIRE, To Bring Home: Oul of a Slaélt on.
——Throw the saddle or harness, etc. , over them,
and they will come out immediately.

FIRE, Escaping from.—I. Be careful to
acquaint yourself with the best means of exit
from the house, both at the top and bottom.—2.
0n the first alarm, reflect before you act. If in
bed at the time, wrap yourself in a blanket or
bedside carpet. Open no more doors than are
absolutely necessary, and shut every door after
you.—3. There is always from eight to twelve
inches of pure air close to the ground; if you
cannot, therefore, walk upright through the
smoke, drop on your hands and knees, and thus
progress. A wetted silk handkerchief, a piece
of flannel, or a worsted stocking, drawn over
the face, permits breathing, and to a great ex-
tent excludes the smoke.—4. If you can neither
make your way upward or downward, get into a
front room; if there is a family, see that they
are all collected here, and keep the door closed
as much as possible, for remember that smoke
always follows a draught, and fire always rushes
after smoke.-——5. On no account throw ourself,
or allow others to throw themselves, fiom the
window. If no assistance is at hand, and you
are in extremity, tie the sheets together, having
fastened one Side to some heavy piece of furni-
ture, and let down the women and children one
by one, by tying the end of the line of sheets
around the waist, and lowering them through
the window that is over the door, rather than
the one that is over the area. You can easily
let yourself down after the helpless are saved.

FIRE, Clot/zing an.—If a woman’s clothes
mtch fire, let her instantly roll herself over and
over on the ground. If a. man be present,
let him throw her down and do the like, and
then wrap her up in a tablecloth, rug, coat, or
the fiist woollen thing that is at hand.

FIRES, Suggestions to Prevent—I. Be care-
ful to keep lucifer matches in metal boxes, out of
the reach of children. —-2. Wax matches are
particularl dangerous, and should be kept out of
the way 0 rats and mice ; be careful in making
fires with shavings and other light kindling—3.
Do not deposit coal or wood ashes m a wooden
vessel, and be sure burning cinders are extin-
guished before they are deposited—4. Never
put firewood upon the stove to dry.—5. Do not
put ashes or a light under a staircase.—6. Fill

erosene lamps only in the daytime, and never
near a fire or light—7. Be cautious in extin-
guishin matches, and never throw them on the
Boon—'- . Do not throw a cigar stump upon the
floor, or into a box containing sawdust, Without
being certain that it is not on fire—9. Do not
blow out a candle, or put it away on a shelf or
anywhere else, until sure that the snuff has gone
entirely out.—xo. A lighted candle ought not to
be stuck up against a frame wall, or placed near
any portion of the wood-work in a stable, man-
ufactory, shop, or any other place—n. Never
enter a barn or stable at night with an uncovered
light.—Iz. Ostlers‘ should not be allowed to
smoke about stables.-——I3. Never take an open
light to examine a gas meter, or to search for an
escape of gas—I4. Do not put gas or other
lights near curtains—15. Do not read in bed,

 

 

15

either by candle or lamp light ; place glass shades
over gaslights in shop windows, and 'do not
crowd goods too close to them.—I6. No smok-
ing should ever be permitted in warehouses, es-
pecially where goods are packed or cotton stored.
-—I7. Stove pipes should be at least four inches
from woodwork, and well guarded by tin, or
zinc.—18.- Rags ought never to be stuffed into
stove.pipe holes; openings in chimney flues for
stove pipes which are not used, ought always to!
be securely protected by metallic coverings.—19.
Never close up a place of business in the eve-
ning without looking well to the extinguishment
of lights and the proper security of the fires.—
20. When retiring to bed at night, always take
every precaution to see that there is no danger
from your fires; that the gas, if you use it, is
properly extinguished; and take care that your
lights are safe.

POISONS, General, Antidotes and Rules to
be 0&rerved.—-The first thing to he done, when a;
person has swallowed a poison of any kind, is,
to empty the stomach, by taking a teaspoonful of
common salt and the same quantity of ground
mustard, stirred rapidly in a teacup of water,
warm or cold, and swallowed instantly. Next
give water to drink, cold or warm, as fast as
possible, a gallon or more at a time, and as fast
as vomited drink more; tepid water is best, as
it opens the pores of the skin, and thus gives
the speediest cure to the poisonous article. If
pains begin to be felt in the bowels, it shows
that part at least of the poison has passed
downwards; then large and repeated injections
of tepid water should be given, the object in
both cases being to dilute the poison as quickly
and as largely as possible. Do not wait for
warm water—take that which is nearest at hand,
cold or warm, for evbry second of time saved is
of immense importance. It has been found
that there is hardly any poison which, being di-
luted in a sufficient quantity with water, may not
prove inoffensive. This virtue, cou led with its
universal availability, makes it a v uable reme~
dial agent in poisoning.

POISONS, Special, and their Antidotes.—
The following are some of the more common ar-
ticles of poison by which human life is endan-
gered 'or destroyed, either by accident or design,
together with the symptoms attending their use,
and the articles and measures which may be used
to destroy their effects and save life. ALCOHOL.
——Symptom:——Confusion of thought; inability to
walk or stand; dizziness; stupor; highly flushed
or pale face; noisy breathing. T rtalmmt.——Ex-
cite vomiting by large draughts of warm water,
by tickling the throat, and by emetics; use
stomach pump; pour cold water on head and
back of the neck; keep up motion; whip the
skin, palms of the hands and soles of the feet,
with small cords or rods; give strong stimulants,
as ammonia. AMMONIA.——Symptoms—Strong
acrid and burning taste in the mouth; heat in
the throat and stomach; nausea; vomiting;
great prostration; cold, clammy skin; small,

requent pulse. T reatmmt—Antidote, vinegar
and water, or any dilute vegetable acid, excite
vomiting; give mucilages, emetics, cathartics,
clysters, opiates. AQUAFORTIS on NITRIC ACID.
—Symptomr——Lips, mouth and throat of yellow
color; pain, burning and strangulation in swal-
lowing; retching; vomiting of dark—colored flu-
ids, with shreds of mucous membrane; swelling

16

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

of the throat; difficulty of swallowin and of
breathing; skin cold and clammy; pu se quick
and small. Treatment—Calcined magnesia,
carbonate of magnesia, chalk or whiting in wa—
ter; soap and water; ashes and water; milk;
white of eggs; oil and mucilages. Perhaps use
a stomach pump. If suffocation is threatened,
open the windpipe. Assume—Symptom:—
Sickness; fainting; burning pain in the stomach;
vomiting; excessive thirst; dryness, heat and
tightness of the throat; diarrhoea; slow and inn
-termitting pulse; palsy; lethargy; insensibility;
convulsions, etc. Treatment—Hydrated sesqui-
oxide of iron; emetics of 3 to 5 grs. of sulphate
of copper; 10 to 15 grs. sulphate of zinc; ipe-
cac; mustard seed; tickle the throat with the
finger or a feather; white of eggs ; milk; gruel ;
flaxseed tea; warm water largely; oil and lime-
}water ; calcined magnesia; stomach' pump.
BISMUTH.—-Sym toms—Metallic taste in the
mouth; heat an dryness of the throat; severe
burning heat in the stomach and bowels ; violent
vomiting, sometimes of bloody matter; profuse
diarrhoea; pulse small, frequent and irregular;
skin cold and clammy; respiration difficult;
fainting; convulsions, etc. T reatment——-Large
portions of milk, white of eggs, oil; promote
'vomiting by large draughts of sickening drinks,
and by tickling the throat'with the finger or a
feather ; use stomach pump. BLISTERING
F LIEs.—-Symj>toms—Burning in the throat and
difficulty of swallowing; violent pains in the
stomach and bowels ; nausea; vomiting of
bloody mucus; pain in the loins; desire to void
urine, and passage of bloody water, with great
pain. T rtatmmt———Emetics; copious draughts
of warm water, milk, mucilaginous drinks; tick-
ling the throat with the finger or a feather.
BLUE VITRIOL (Sulphate 0 Copper— Wrdigvis.)
-—S ymptoms—Stron g met lic taste in the mouth ;
belching, violent vomiting and purging; gri ing
pains; cramps in the thighs and legs; frot ing
at the mouth; headache, giddiness, convulsions,
insensibility, etc. T rtatmml—Early vomiting
by large draughts of warm water and by tickling
the throat; strong coffee, milk, white of eggs,
wheat flour and water, mucilages; stomach
pump. CARBOLIC ACID.—The best antidote for
carbolic acid, after the stomach pum , is large
doses of olive or almond oil, with a little Castor
oil. CARBONIC ACID GAS.—Found in wells,
cellars, mines, etc., and largely given ofi“ in the
burning of charcoal in close rooms. Symptom:
--—Drowsiness, difficulty of respiration, suffoca-
tion; face swelled and more or less discolored;
sensation of great weight in the head ; vertigo,
loss of muscular power, and insensibility.
Treatment—Admission of fresh air; friction, es~
ecially over the lungs; artificial respiration, by
inflating the lungs by the mouth or bellows ; ap-
plication of strong stimulants to the mouth or
nose; cold water oured upon the head and back
of the neck. If tiie body be cold, a warm bath.
COBALT.-—-Of importance from its extensive use
as fly-poison, children having eaten it and thereby
been poisoned. Symptoms—Heat and pain in
the throat and stomach; violent retching and
vomiting; cold and clammy skin ; small and fre-
quent pulse; respiration hurried, anxious and
difficult , diarrhoea, etc. T reatment—Give freely
milk, white of eggs, wheat flour and water, nau-
seating teas, mucilages, emetics and clysters
CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE.—-Carelessly made use of

 

in many families as a bed-bug poison. Sym -
toms—Strong metallic or coppery taste in t e
mouth; burning heat and constriction of the
throat; severe pain in the stomach and bowels;
violent vomiting and purging; countenance
swollen and flushed, or anxious and pale; pulse
small, frequent and irregular; skin cold and
clammy ; tongue white and shriveled; respiration
difficult; fainting, convulsions and insensibility.
T reatment—Albumen, which is contained in the
whites of eggs, abundantly; wheat flour in wa-
ter; liquid starch, milk, iron filings; excite vom-
iting early by large draughts of warm water;
mustard seed, tickling the throat, and emetics;
use stomach pump. DEADLY NIGHTSHADE.-—
Children are sometimes poisoned by eating the
berries, which have a sweetish taste. Symptom:
—Dryness and stricture of the throat; nausea,
vertigo, dilated pupils, dimness of sight, laugh-
ter, delirium; redness and swelling of the face;
convulsions, general paralysis, and insensibility.
T reatmmt—Emetics of sulphate of Zinc, (10 to
15 grs.,) or copper, (3 to 5 grs. ;) large purga-
tives, and clysters ; take vinegar and water, or
other vegetable acids, freely; bitter infusions;
lime-water; stomach pump; cold water oured
on the head, and strong stimulants. OOL’s
PARSLEY.-—Taken by mistake for common pars-
ley. Symptoms—Heat of throat, and thirst;
oppression at the stomach; nausea, vomiting,
and occasionally purging; cold and moist skin;
small and frequent pulse ; headache, vertigo and
delirium. Treatment—Emetics of zinc or cop-
per; warm water; milk; flaxseed or chamo-
mile tea; purgatives, clysters, warm bath, stim-
ulants and opiates. FOXGLOVE.—Symptoms—-
Intermitting pulse, vertigo, indistinct vision,
nausea, vomiting, hiccough, cold sweats, delir-
ium, syncope and convulsions. T realment—
Emetics, followed by strong stimulants, (brandy,
ether, ammonia,) opiates, counter-irritation;
mustard-seed poultices or blisters to the pit of
the stomach; cold effusions. FUNGUSEs.——-Or
poisonous mushrooms, (Fungi,) taken by mis-
take for eatable mushrooms. Symptoms—Pain
in the stomach, nausea, vomiting and purging;
great thirst, colic pains, cramp, convulsions,
vertigo, delirium. Treatment—Emetics, purga-
tives, mucilages, acid drinks, stimulants, (ether,
brandy, ammonia,) opiates, hitters. HELLEBORE
(Indian Poke. )-—Sometimes used in a poisonous
quantity as a dressing for a sore. Symptoms-—
Violent vomiting and purging; bloody stools;
great anxiety; tremors, vertigo, fainting, sinking
of the pulse, cold sweats, and convulsions.
T reatmmt—Excite speedy vomiting by large
draughts of warm water, molasses and water,
tickling the throat with the finger or a feather,
and emetics; give oily and mucilaginous drinks,
oily purgatives, and clysters, acids, strong coffee,
camphor and opium. HEMLOCK.—Symptoms—-
Dimness of sight, delirium; swelling of the ab-
domen, with pain, vomiting and purging.
T rtatment~Emetics of sulphate of zinc or cop-
per, assisted by copious draughts of warm water,
milk, flaxseed tea, chamomile, etc.; stomach
ump; pouring cold water on the head and
back; stimulants and acids. HEleANE-—
Symptoms—Appearance of intoxication; Sickness,
stupor, dimness of sight, delirium, great (1113-
tion of the pupils, insensibility. Treatment!—
Emetics, with strong stimulants, as sulphate-of
zinc or copper, tartar emetic or ipecac, With

ACCIDENTS AND EMERGENCIZS,

I7

 

mustard-seed or cayenne, acid drinks, ammonia,
brandy, ether, strong coffee, cold affusion;
stomach pump and stimulating the skin. LIME.
——Symptoms—Heat in throat and stomach, nau-
sea, vomiting, pain in the stomach, violent colic
pains, diarrhoea, sometimes constipation. T reat~
”uni—Vinegar, lemon-juice, or any vegetable
acid, freely; demulcent drinks, opiates, warm
bath, etc. LUNAR CAUSTIC (Nitrate of Silver.)
—Symptomr——Burning pain in the stomach, nau-
sea, retching, vomiting; sometimes extreme
purging; cold and clammy skin; small, fre-
uent, and irregular pulse; respiration difficult;

'nting, convulsions. T reatmmt—Common
salt in solution abundantly; warm water; irri-
tation to the throat; emetics, warm bath, pur-
gatives, opiates. MEADOW SAFFRON.—.Sym];:-
toms—Nausea, vomiting, pain in the stomac ,
griping pains in the bowels, with violent purg-
ing; cold sweats; small, frequent and irregular
pulse. T reatmmt—Excite vomiting (if not al-
ready free enough) by the use of nauseating
drinks, tickling the throat, and emetics, muci-
lages, opiates, with stimulants. MONK’s HOOD
(re: Opium.)—Symptom.r—Nausea, violent vom-
iting and purging; vertigo, cold sweats, delir-
ium, convulsions. T reatmmt—Excite vomiting
(if not already free enough) by emetics, large
quantities of warm water, molasses and water,
milk, flaxseed and chamomile teas, etc.; acid
drinks, stimulants, brandy, ether, ammonia, opi-
ates. MOUNTAIN LAUREL—Of great import-
ance, as honey made from its flowers is poison-
ous, and birds which feed upon its buds in win-
ter are likewise poisonous. Symptoms-Giddi-
ness, violent flushings of heat and cold, sickness
at the stomach, with repeated vomiting and purg-
ing; delirium, frequent and weak pulse, extreme
debility, profuse perspiration, convulsions, etc.
Treatment—Emetics, mucilaginous and nausea-
ting drinks, warm water, or molasses and water,
tickling the throat, purgatives, clysters, strong
stimulants, ammonia, coffee, cold affusion, stom-
ach pump. MURIATIC ACID—Symptoms—Ex-
treme irritation; burning and sense of strangu-
lation in swallowing; discharge of shreds of
mucous membrane; swelling of the throat; dif-
ficulty of swallowing and breathing; skin cold
and covered with clammy sweat; pulse quick
and small; lining membrane of the mouth and
throat artially destroyed. T ”ailment-Carbo-
nate o magnesia, calcined magnesia, chalk, or
whiting in water; soap and water, ashes and
water, white of eggs, milk, oil, etc. Plaster
from the wall may be beaten down to apaste
with water and given; carbonate of soda, with
barley-water, slippery elm. If suffocation is
threatened, open the windpipe. MURIATE OF
BARYTES.——Symptamr——Pain, burning, weight
in the stomach ; vertigo, dimness of vision, ring-
ing in the ears, pain in the head, throbbing in
the temples, paralysis, convulsions. Treatment
Epsom or Glauber’s salts in solution, emetics,
large draughts of warm water, tickling the
throat, flaxseed tea, stomach pump; opiates in
large doses. MURIATE OF TIN.—Sym1510m.s‘—
Strong metallic (coppery) taste, sense of tight-
ness in the throat, difficult respiration, violent
vomiting, with cramp in the stomach; severe
colic pains, with purging; cold, clammy skin;
small, frequent pulse; paralysrs, convulsions.
greatmmt—Milk, largely administered; emet-
8“, large draughts of warm water, tickling the

 

throat, hot cloths to the stomach and bowels,
soothing and opiate clysters. NITRE.-—Some-
times taken by mistake for some other salt.
Symptoms—Intense pain in the stomach, nausea,
vomiting, profuse purging, bloody stools, severe
colic pains in the lower part of the bowels, diffi-
cult breathing, great prostration, fainting, con-
vulsions. Treatment—Flaxseed tea, barley-wan
ter, molasses and water, tickling the throat,
emetics, opiates, stimulants, brandy, ether, etc.
Nux VOMICA OR STRYCHNIA.—.§}'mj>loms—An
extremely persistent bitter taste in the mouth,
muscular spasms, great rigidity, limbs fixed and
stretched out, jaws spasmodically shut, drowsi-
ness. If the symptoms are prolonged, nausea,
vomiting, difficulty of respiration, asphyxia.
T reatmmf—The Cannaéz': India (a variety of
the hemp plant) has been recommended as an
antidote; emetics, to produce immediate vomit-
ing; stomach pump; vinegar, and other vege-
table acids, in water. OIL OF CEDAR—Syn];-
toms—Heat in the stomach, followed immedi-
ately by convulsions, with frothing at the mouth;
pulsation ceases early. The body is warm 3.
long time after death. T realmml—Vomiting to
be excited as early as possible by large draught:
of warm water and other nauseating drinks, by
ground mustard-seed, and tickling the throat;
use the stomach pump as early as possible. OIL
0F RUE—Symptoms—Dryness of mouth and
throat, thirst, heat and pain in the stomach and
bowels, headache and delirium. Yh'atmmt—
Vomiting to be excited as quickly as posmble by
large draughts of warm water and other nause-
ating drinks, by ground mustard-seed, tickling
the throat, emetics, acids, stomach pump. OIL
OF SAVIN.—Symptamr—Headache, strong gen-
eral excitement, delirium, acute pain in the
stomach and bowels, nausea, vomiting, purging,
convulsions. T reatmmt—Vomiting to be ex-
cited by copious draughts of warm water, mus-
tard-seed, tickling the throat, and emetics of
sulphate of zinc or copger; acid drinks, muci-
lages, stomach pump. IL 0F TANSY.——Symp-
toms—Heat in the stomach, followed immedi-
ately by convulsions and frothing at the mouth;
pulsation feeble, and soon lost. Treaz’mmt—
Vomiting to be instantly excited by copious
draughts of warm water and other nauseating
drinks, mustard seed, tickling the throat. sul-
phate of zinc or copper, acid drinks, mucilages,
stomach pump. OIL OF TAR—Symptoma—
Speedy insensibility ; laborious, rattling breath-
ing ; coldness of the extremities; contraction of
the pupils; suffusion of the eye; feeble pulse.
T realmmt—Vomiting to be instantly excited by
copious draughts of warm water, etc. OIL OF
V1TRIOL.——Symptomr—Extreme irritation, pain,
burning, and sense of strangulation in swallow-
ing; retching, vomiting, discharge of dark-col-
ored fluids and shreds of membrane from the
stomach; swelling of the throat; difficulty of
swallowing and breathing; cold, clammy skin;
uick and small pulse. The lining membrane of
t e mouth and throat is partially destrqyed, and
is of a white color. Treatment—Carbonate of
magnesia, calcined magnesia, chalk or whiting,
mixed with water, soap, or ashes and water;
lime from the plastered wall beat into a paste
with water, white of eggs, milk, oil; perhaps
the stomach pump, but with great care. If suf-
focation is threatened, open the windpipe.
OPIUM.—Symptom:—Giddiness, drowsiness, in-

18

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

sensibility, stupor; pulse at first quick and ir-
regular, and breathing hurried; afterwards
breathing is slow and noisy, and the pulse slow
and full. In favorable cases there is early nau-
sea and vomiting. Treatment—Excite instant
vomiting by mustard-seed, copious draughts of
warm water, and tickling the throat; give sul-
phate of zinc (to to 15 grs.) or copper (3 to 5);
use the stomach pump early. Give strong stim—
ulants, ether, brandy, ammonia, strong coffee
and tea. Pour cold water on the head and back
of the neck, and whip the skin, the palms of the
hands, and soles of the feet with small cords or
rods. PHOSPHOROUS.—Hot taste of garlic or
onions in the mouth, violent pains in the stom-
ach, nausea and vomiting, followed by great ex-
citement of the arterial vessels; convulsions.
T rcatmml—Fill up the stomach with magnesia
and water; give emetics and nauseating drinks
to keep up the vomiting. OXALIC ACID.—Gen-
erally taken accidentally from its resemblance to
Epsom salts. Symptoms—Hot, burning taste in
swallowing; immediate and constant vomiting,
the matter thrown up being of a greenish or
brownish color, and extremely acid; sometimes
severe pain; collapse; pulse small, irregular,
and scarcely perceptible; numbness and spasms.
Treatment—«Carbonate of magnesia, calcined
magnesia, chalk or whiting, made into a cream
with water, and administered freely; lime-water
with oil; emetics, mucilages; stomach pump.
POTASH.——Symptomr——Strong acid taste in the
mouth; burning heat in the throat and stomach ;
sometimes vomiting and purging, with colic
pains; cold, clammy skin; small, frequent
ulse. T mammal—Vegetable acids, vinegar,
emon-juice, or tartaric acid in water; emetics,
clysters, opiates. PRUSSIC ACID—Symptoms—
Instant sensation of weight and pain in the
head; nausea, quick pulse. In large doses, in-
stant insensibility, stupor, convulsions; loss of

pulsation, very slow and convulsive breathing}

T reatmml—Application of strong ammonia to
the nostrils, and stimulating liniments to the
chest; cold water poured upon the head and
spine; chlorine gas; a dilute solution of chlo-
ride of soda or lime. POISON IVY.—A running
vine which is found covering walls, shrubs,
trees, and in meadows. This plant, by contact,
and upon many without contact, produces vio-
lent erysipelatous inflammation, particularly with
the face and hands. The symptoms are itching,
redness, burning, swelling, watery blisters, and
subsequently peeling of the skin. These effects
are experienced soon after exposure, and usually
begin to decline within a week. T natmml—
Bathe the parts freely with spirits of nitre. If
the blisters be broken, so as to allow the nitre to
penetrate the cuticle, more than a single applica-
tion will rarely be necessary. Another remedy
is to take a handful of quick—lime, dissolve it in
water, let it stand half an hour, and then paint
the poisoned parts with it. Three or four ap-
lications will generally cure. Another is to

the the afl'ected parts well with sweet (or olive)
oil, takifg internally 2 tablespoonfuls 3 times a
day. Anointing the face and hands with sweet
.11 will prevent poisoning by the ivy. POISON
DOGWO0D.—-A small but beautiful shrub or
tree, from to to 15 feet high, having a dark gray
bark, its smaller branches of a lighter color, and
its extreme twigs red. Its effects are similar to
those of Poison Ivy, but more powerful. The

 

oisonous principle is most energetic during the
timing of the wood. Symptoms and treatment
the same as for the ivy. SUGAR OF LEAD 0R
WHITE LEAD.—Symptams——A burning, prick-
ling sensation in the throat, with dryness and
thirst; uneasiness at the pit of the stomach;
nausea, vomiting; colic pains, constipation of
the bowels, cold skin, feeble and irregular pulse,
great prostration of the strength, cramps, numb-
ness, paralysis, giddiness, torpor, insensibility.
T rcatmmt—Epsom or Glauber salts, (sulphates
of magnesia and soda,) mucilages, milk, white of
eggs, wheat flour with water, emetics ; stomach
pump. T ARTAR EMETIC.—Symptomr—Nausea,
severe vomiting, hiccough, burning heat and
pain in the stomach, colic pains, violent purg-
ing, small, frequent and hard pulse; cramps,
vertigo, fainting, and great prostration. T reat-
ment—Tea made of oak bark or Peruvian bark,
strong green tea, mucilages, warm drinks, opium,
opiate clysters. TOBACCO.—Sympz‘omJ—Severe
nausea, vomiting, headache, sudden sinking of
the strength, cold sweats, convulsions. Treat-
ment—Emetics, copious draughts of warm wa-
ter, tickling the throat with the finger or feather,
purgatives, acid drinks, stimulants, Brandy,
camphor, etc. THORN APPLE on STRAMONIUM.
Symptoms—Vertigo, delirium, stupor, convul-
sions, paralysis, cold sweats, feeble and irregular
pulse. Treatment—Emetics of sulphate of zinc
or copper, mustard—seed, tickling the throat,
stomach pump. WHITE VITRIOL OR SULPHATE
OF ZINC—Symptomr—Bitter taste in the mouth,
with sensation of choking; nausea and severe
vomiting; pain in the stomach and bowels;
purging, difficult breathing, quick and small
pulse, coldness of the extremities. T realmmt—
Albumen, white of eggs, wheat flour and water,
milk abundantly, infusions of tea, oak bark, etc. ;
emetics, purgatives, and opiate clysters.
POISONOUS DRUGS, Labels fan—Very
many cases of accidental poisoning would be
prevented if druggists would rint labels that
would not only give the name 0 the poison and
the dose, but would also give the antidote. A
transcript for such a label might be as fol.
lows:

LAUDANUM—POISON.

Dore—For an adult, from twenty. to forty
drops. Should not be given to childrenexcept
in very small doses.

Antia’ate.—In case of accident, use active
stimulants. Coffee, tea, brandy, and ammo-

n1a.

THUNDER S TORMS, Safezy During.—
I. The opening of the doors and windows of a
house, or the keeping of them closed, will in
neither case influence the passage of the electric
current.—2. Sitting by a window is not only as
safe, but probably more safe, than some other
parts of the house. It is, however, less safe to
sit near the fireplace. The chimney, being the
most prominent part of the house, is the point
generally on which the lightning strikes. The
best place is to sit or be as near the middle of
the room as convenient—3. If in bed, and the
bed be as far as any other art of the room from
the fireplace or its metallic furniture, it would
probably be safer to remain in it during the
storm.—4. It is often recommended to go down
stairs, it being su posed that a cellar, being be-

,low the surface 0 the earth, is the safest place of

A C CIDEN TS AND EMERGENCIES.

I9

 

refuge. This is a popular error, for it must be
understood that the lightning rises out of the
earth as well as proceeds from the clouds; the
cellar, therefore, or the ground floor, may ac-
:ordingly, in some cases, be nearer the point at
which the electricity ascends; and the effects are
as violent at the place from which the electricity
takes its departure, as at the place which it strikes
on its arrival at the earth.—-—5. Lying down, as a
general rule, is a safer position than an upright
attitude.——6. When out of doors, avoid standing
under trees, especially tall trees, to escape from
the rain during a thunder storm; but boldly ex-
pose yourself to the wet; and if on high ground
where there are no trees, the human body itself
becomes a good conductor, and the safest course
under these circumstances, however inconvenient
it may be, is to lie' down, instead of maintaining
an erect position.—7. Avoid standing close to
any metallic bodies, as lead pipes, iron rail-
ings, etc.

LOCKYA WC—The symptoms are, at first,
difficulty and uneasiness in turning the head,
with inability to open the mouth easily; gradual
closure of the jaws with great firmness, followed
by difficulty in swallowing and pain in the breast,
shooting to the back. Remedies for the prompt
and permanent cure of this disease are unknown.
The s asms can be controlled by the use of
chloro orm or ether, taken into the stomach or
by inhalation. The bowels should be freely
moved by warm-water injections. Rapid friction
of the whole body by attendants will be advan-
tageous. It is said that the a plication of spirits
of turpentine to the face and neck will effect a
cure. When the jaws are firmly closed, the
drawing of a tooth will allow the passage of
food; but failing this, food in a fluid state can be
passed by injection into the rectum. These re-
quirements, necessary to the nourishment of the
patient, can be avoided if, when the disease is
noticed coming on, two small pieces of soft wood
are placed between the upper and lower jaw, one
pin each side, so that they may be kept asun-

er.

S CA IDS—See Bumr.

STINGS 0F BEES AND WASPS.—
I. These stings, though very painful, are not
dangerous to a healthy person, unless in the
mouth, throat, or eyelid. The sting of a bee,
being barbed at the end, is always left in the
wound, and should, when possible, be carefully
removed. That of a wasp is pointed only, so
that they can sting more than once, which a bee
cannot do. If, after the sting of the bee is ex-
tracted, the wound be sucked, very little inflam-
mation will follow; and if s irits of ammonia be
then applied, a prompt hea ing will result.-—-2.
Common whiting, moistened with water, and ap-
plied immediately, and in a few minutes washed
off, will prevent pain and swelling from following
the sting of a bee or wasp—3. The slice of a'
common onion rubbed on the sting of a wasp, or,
if in the throat, chewed slowly and the piece
swallowed, will result in a certain cure. See
Bites.

SUFFOCA TIOZV FROM NOXIOUS
GASES, E —Remove to the fresh air; dash

 

cold vinegar and water in the face, neck, and
breast; keep up the warmth of the body; if nec-
essary apply mustard poultices to the soles of the
feet, and try artificial respiration as in Drawn-

m .

gSUNSTROKE.—In every instance where
one iS’found fainting in the street on a hot day,
the first thing is to remove the person to as cool
and shady a place as can be found, and, if possi-
ble, to where a draft of air is blowing at the
time. Bystanders and mere curious idlers should
be kept from crowding around. It should be
understood that there are two morbid conditions
resulting from excessive heat. These differ
somewhat in their symptoms, and require a
somewhat different treatment. The first of
these occurs during hot weather, after undue ex-
ertion on the part of the person thus affected.
The man is faint, perhaps unable to move, al-
though he can generally be roused; he has a
feeble pulse and a cool and moist skin. Here
there is simply a loss of nervous power, and re-
lief is promptly afforded by removing him to a
cool, shady place, applying cold water or ice to
the head, and administering iced brandy and
water, iced wine and water, or other stimulant.
In the other and more fatal form of this affection
a different set of symptoms show themselves.
Here the patient suddenly falls to the ground,
completely unconscious, his skin is pungently
hot and dry, his breathing hurried, convulsions
are not uncommon, and, if proper treatment be
not promptly resorted to, death soon takes
place. In this, also, the patient should be
promptly removed to a shady and cool spot, per-
fectly private, so that the crowd may be kept off
without fail. His clothing should be stripped
off, and his whole body should be rubbed with
ice from head to foot, and pieces of ice should
be kept under the arm-pits. This should be
steadily persevered with until the patient is re-
stored, or until a doctor arrives, or until it is
plain that the patient is beyond recovery.

T HROA T, Foreign Bodies in titan—Persons
are frequently in danger of suffocation from fish-
bones, pins, etc., which stick to the throat.
The moment an accident of this kind occurs, de-
sire the patient to be perfectly still; open his
mouth, and look into it. If you see the obstruc-
tion, endeavor to seize it with your finger and
thumb, or a long, slender pair of pincers. If it
cannot be got up, and is not of a nature to do
any injury in the stomach, push it down with the
handle of a spoon, or a flexible, round piece of
whalebone, the end of which is neatly covered
with a roll of linen, or anything that may be at
hand. If you can neither get it up or down,
place six grains of tartar emetic in the patient’s
mouth. As it dissolves, it will make him exces-
sively sick, and, in consequence of the relaxa-
tion, the bone, or whatever it may be, will de-
scend into the stomach, or be ejected from the
mouth. If a pin, button, or other metallic or
pointed body, has been swallowed, or pushed
into the stomach, make the patient eat plentifully
of thick rice pudding, and endeavor to prevent
him from going to stool for at least twelve
hours.

20

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

APIARY.

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE BEE.
-—A community or family of bees is generally
understood to contain from twelve to thirty thou-
sand individuals. About nine-tenths of the
whole number are common or working bees, and
the remaining tenth male or drone bees, and at
the head of the commonwealth there is a person-
age who is entitled “the queen” or mother
bee.

THE QUEEN, on THE MOTHER BEE.—
This important individual differs in her appear-
ance and her functions from all the other mem-
bers of the family. She is darker, longer, and
more taper in figure than the common bee; her
legs are longer, although her wings are shorter,
and underneath her color is tawny or yellowish
- brown. She is furnished with a sting like the
working bees, which, however, she uses, it is
said, only on ver important occasions. She is
the mother of t e whole community; all the
working bees, the drones, and those intended to
be future queens, proceed alike from her eggs,
of which, according to some writers, she has
sometimes been known to produce a hundred
thousand in one year; a number not too large
when new swarms are considered, as well as the
deaths and casualties continually occurring
among the members of~the hive. The mother
bee not only occupies the maternal relation to
her immense family, but exercises over them an
influence analogous to that of a sovereign, a cir-
cumstance from which her appellation of queen
is justly derived. On her presence depends not
only the prosperity but the very existence of the
bee nation ; and with this influence exercised by
the queen herself, a corresponding instinct is in
operation in all the then members of 'the com-
munity, which may justly be compared with
what we understand by the term “loyalty.”
The absence of the insect monarch, whether
from death or any other cause, speedily entails
disorder, confusion and anarchy ; all labor is ter-
minated, and the bees disperse.

THE WORKING BEEs.-—-These are distinct,
both from the queen and the drones, being
smaller, and having the charge of making inces-
sant provision for the well-being and sustenance
of the whole family. Their daily toils are an il-
lustration of what is called the “division of la-
bor,” the value of which was unknown to man
for centuries after the bee had been taught to
avail herself of the system. Some of the work-
ers occupy themselves in making the combs
from the wax, which is a natural secretion; oth-
ers keep the eggs warm which are to produce
future members of the hive; others engage in
feeding the queen and the larvae or young brood;
others take charge of the ventilation and clean-
sing of the hive; some take on them the duty ot
guarding the common habitation from attack,
and warning its inhabitants of impending dan-
ger; others wing their way to t e fields and
gardens, and collect with indefatigable industry
the farina and honey that are so imperatively re-

uired.

q T HE DRONE Brass—These are larger, darker,

 

'l

and more hairy than the workers ; they have no
stings, their motions on the wing are heavier,
and the sound of their humming so much deeper
as to give rise to their characteristic appellation.
The drones take no part in the process of col-
lecting or storing honey, nor, indeed, in any of
the various industrial occupations in which the
workers engage. Neither their instincts nor or-
ganization adapt them to these ofiices ; but Infi.
nite Wisdom has called them to the performance
of functions no less important. Some highly in-
teresting and marvelous instincts are illustrated
in the history of the drones. They are, as al-
ready stated, unproductive—that is to say, they
do nothing to add to the wealth of the commu-
nity. As mere consumers, the drones seem at
certain periods to be regarded by the working
bees as an expensive as well as a useless class,
only worthy of being destroyed or expelled.
Accordingly, if the necessity of swarming ceases,
and no royal cells are constructed, or the royal
brood have been prematurely destroyed, the in-
stinct of the workers prompts them to the ex-
pulsion of the drones, against whom a fierce war
is declared, ending in their extermination. On
the other hand, if the queen bee is forcibly taken
from the hive, the instinct of the workers leads
them to spare the lives of the drones, who con-
tinue to be boarded and lodged at the ublic ex-
pense, in consequence, apparently, o the pre-
sumption, that although the cost of their support
may be considerable, circumstances may arise to
render the very existence of the community de-
pendent upon them.

SWARMING.—The instinct that prompts these
wonderful insects to issue from the hive and es-
tablish new colonies, is called into exercise when
the hive contains too great a number of inhabi-
tants, and there is not a sufficient space either
for breeding young bees or storing honey. The
crowded state of the hive renders emigration in-
dispensable, and arrangements are made for the
important event. Royal cells are formed, and
young queens are anxiously and tenderly fostered
in them, since without them emigration is im-
practicable. In these circumstances the bees
cease to gather honey, and a period of idleness
occurs which terminates with swarming. The
owner of the bees, therefore, must either multi-
ply the number of his hives, b allowing. them
to swarm, or he may prevent t e swarming by
furnishing additional accommodation for breed-
ing and collecting honey; for it has been found
that bees can be controlled perfectly in this mat-
ter, divided as much as the owner _finds desir.
able, or swarming prevented entirely If he Wishes
it.

ARTIFICIAL SWARMING.——This should be un-
dertaken only when honey is abundant in the
fields and the nights warm. To diVIde them,
have a hive at hand of the same size and pattern
as your others. Then from four hives take each
two frames and place them in the new the, sup.
plying their place in the old With empty frames.
Then move a hive which you have not disturbed,
a rod or more away to a new place, and pace

APIARY.

the new hive where that one stood. This should
be done in the middle of a fine day, when many
bees are absent in the fields. These will come
in loaded to their old place, and find it strange;
and as it contains stores and young bees hatch-
ing, and eggs from which to rear another queen,
they will at once proceed to rear one, and remain
and work as contented as ever. This process
may be repeated every two weeks until you have
secured sufficient increase. The hives from
which you take the combs, and the ones which

u move to a new place, will lose so many bees
that they will not think of swarming, but will
energetically make up their loss, and be better
than if nothing had been taken from them.
This is the safest of all ways to divide bees, and
can be safely practiced by beginners.

To PREVENT SWARMING.—Immediately after
the issue of the first swarm open the hives, (you
must have movable frames for this,) destroy ev-
ery royal cell but one. If at the end of five days
this has not hatched, look over the combs again,
and destroy every royal cell that may now ap-
pear, excepting the one saved at first. But if
the oldest of the young queens is allowed to
hatch and begin piping before anything is done,
the fever of swarming will rise to such a pitch
that you cannot allay it, and the old. hive may
even be left destitute. The best way is to make
the first swarm an artificial one before or soon
after queen cells are started. Then at the end
of nine days, destroy all cells but one, as above.
To prevent first swarms, clip the wings of the
queen, and put a “ queen yard” in front of the
hive—a shallow box some two feet square, with
edges of tin projecting inward, so that no bee
can get out and away from the hive Without fly-
ing. This will, of course, prevent the escape of
the queen, and swarms will return.

SWARMs GOING To THE WOODS—may be pre~
vented from doing so by keeping the hive shaded
and cool and close to the bottom board, except a
half inch in front. If a difficult case, set in the
cellar for 48 hours, and give, perhaps, a pound
of honey.

ESTABLISHMENT OF AN APIARY.—The proper
time for this purpose is about February, or the.
beginning of March, as the stocks have then
passed through the winter in safety; the combs
are then empty of broods, and light of honey,
and may be removed with safety and . ease.
Stocks should be selected by a competent judge,
as the weight alone cannot always be relied on;
such as weigh 12 lbs. and upwards, the number
of bees being also observed, and that they are
well combed to near the bottom, may be safely
chosen. As soon as they are brought home
they should be set in the 6:: llama, care being
taken to keep them dry and free from the attacks
of vermin. The best time for removing stocks
is in the evening. Swarm: should be brought
home the same evening they are purchased, for
if delayed a day or two the combs will be worked,
and subject tb be broken in removing.

How To MAKE A HIVE.——Take any good,
soft wood lumber—pine is best—and dress it
upon both sides. The boards should be I 5
inches wide and a plump inch in thickness after
it is dressed. For the sides of the hive, cut the
boards into pieces 21in. inlength; for the back
end, 13% inches, and for the front end the same
length, and [1 inches wide. The end pieces
should be rabbeted 1 inch by §§ upon the msxde

 

 

21

of their top edges to receive the frames. Now
nail these pieces together, and we have a box
[3% by l9 inches upon the inside, with neither
to nor bottom. The bottom board is 13% by
2 inches, is fitted inside the hive, the back end
placed 4 inches from the bottom, forming an in-
clined plane, and extending in front of the hive,
making a convenient alighting board for the bees.
An inch auger hole is bored in each upper cor-
ner of the bottom board, and covered upon the
under side with wire cloth, for ventilation. A
strip 13% by 3 inches is fitted in the aperture at
the front of the hive. T lze Mar/41513 Framer are
each com osed of 4 pieces—the top piece being
I by [finches by 20 inches long; the end
pieces are 1% by I inch, and 10% inches in
length; the bottom piece I by M an inch, and
18 inches in length. The bottom edge of the
top piece is beveled to an edge; the end pieces
nailed to it an inch from each end, and the bot-
tom piece is nailed on the end of these. This
gives us a frame 17 inches long by 10 deep, in-
side measurement. Nine of these will go into ‘
the hive, leaving a % inch space all around, and
between each frame. This gives us a hive hold-
ing 2,295 cubic inches in the main apartment.
T/ze Cap qfl/zz Hive should be made 16 by 21%
inches and 9 inches in depth; nail upon top of
this a board 20 by 26 inches for a cover. N ow
we have a cap which will fit over the top of the
hive, and is held in place by strips an inch
square, nailed upon the outside of the hive, %
an inch below its top. The form of this hive is
similar to that used by many of the most suc-
oessful bee-keepers in our country.

ANOTHER EXCELLENT BEEHIVE.—The prin-
cipal object in making a beehive should be to
make it a non—swarmer, and secure the largest
amount of surplus honey 1n the best shape for
the market. This point can be attained by the
use of a device called a “ queen-yard,” made as
follows : ‘Nail together strips of boards to make
a box 18 or 20 inches square, by 3 or 4 inches
deep, with a floor of thin boards, except a strip
4 inches wide, which should be of wire-cloth,
for sifting out dirt, and for ventilation. Fasten
strips of tin 2 inches wide around the inside at
the top, parallel to the floor; and make an
opening in the side next to the wire cloth, in the
floor, corresponding to the entrance of the hive.
Paint the upper side of the tin some light Color.
In swarming-time place this yard in front of the
hive. Previously examine the hive, and clip the
wings of the queen. .When a swarm is disposed
to issue, all the bees are obliged to pass through
this yard, and the queen, being unable to fly, or
crawl over the projecting tins, will return to the
hive, where the bees will soon follow her. To
prevent their raising a young queen which can
fly, the hive must be opened and all queen cells
cut out once a week, unless it is desirable to su-
persede the old queen, in which case one cell
may be left; and after she has hatched and com-
menced laying, which will be in about IO days,
find her and clip her wings as above directed.
The old queen should be removed just before
the young one hatches. The inside of the hive
is simple, consisting of 8 movable frames, sup-
ported by a device which clears them from any
patent. The frames are u by 18 inches, inside
measurement, and are held in place by a piece of
hoop-iron fastened on the outside of one of the
end pieces, near the bottom, and bent at a right

22

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

angle to project under the end of the frame %
of an inch, to form a sort of hook. There
should be space enough between the hook and
end of frame to allow it to slip over apiece of
hoop-iron fastened across the bottom board of
the hive, which has a slight channel cut under it
to give the requisite room. One end of each
frame being thus secured they remain perpen-
dicular, and are kept at the right distance from
each other—X of an inch—by nails partially
driven in the sides of the frames. There are va-
rious other items in the construction, such as
ventilators, etc., which I cannot take room to
describe. At the sides and top of these frames
there is s ace enough to place surplus boxes of
over 100 bs. capacity, holding from 2% to 4 lbs.
each. Top boxes are placed directly on the
frames ; side boxes with the artially open ends
against the main combs. I the honey is de-
signed for home consumption, extra frames may
be used instead of boxes. A large box, whic

is joined at the corners with hooks, incloses the
whole, and can be readily opened at any time.
The space devoted to boxes in summer can be
filled with dry hay or straw, and the hives re-
main safely on the summer stand during winter.
Those who prefer to increase their colonies by
natural or artificial swarming to securing large
amounts of surplus honey, can use these frames
to advantage by omitting the extra space designed
for boxes, and inclosing with a box just large
enough to atcommodate the frames, leaving suf—
ficient room to prevent the bees from waxing the
outside combs fast to the hive.

POSITION OF THE HIvns.—For an apiary, or
even a single hive of bees, the best position is a
sheltered )lace on a low level, instead of an el-
evated an exposed situation, and as free as pos-
sible from damp, noxious smells, and disturbing
sounds. A plot of well-kept grass, or a space
covered with dry gravel, is frequently very de-
sirable. There seems to be no definite rule as
to the best position for the hive as regards the
points of the compass; the bees have been
found to thrive whether their abode fronts the
south, the north, or any intermediate point. On
this subject so much depends on the locality, the
climate, and various other considerations, that it
is difficult, or rather impossible, to prescribe any
rule of universal application.

CHANGING HIVES.—Tlle best time to change
bees without loss from common to movable
frame hives is about the season of swarming,
which varies with the latitude and climate.
About the time when swarms are expected nat-
urally, take the hive which you wish to transfer,
and, blowing a little smoke into the entrance,
remove it a rod or more from its stand, leaving
an empty box or hive in its place, into which the
bees that are out in the field may gather. In-
vert the hive which you have moved, and put
over it an empty box or hive, as near the same
size and shape as possible, and stop all holes or
cracks between the two with grass or weeds that
may be at hand, leaving no hole large enough
for a bee to escape. Then with sticks keep up a.
sharp drumming on the bottom hive, at which
the bees, alarmed, will fill their sacs with honey
and mount into the upper hive. In from 20 to 30
minutes most of the bees, with their queen, will
be in the empty box on top. The beginner need
not fear driving too many; let all go that will.
Then carefully set the box containing the bees in

 

a shady place, and take the old hive back to the
place where it stood. While you have been
driving, many bees will have come back to their
home, and finding it gone, will be roaming in
and out of the empty hive in distress. These
will at once rush into the old hive when it re-
turns, and gladly adhere to it. Then remove it
to a location some yards off, when, as it contains
many hatching bees and eggs, the bees will at
once rear a new queen to replace the one just
driven out, and in a short time be as prosperous
as ever. Now place your new movable comb-
hive, with its entrances all open, on the old
stand, and spread a sheet before it ; on this sheet
empty the bees you have driven into the box,
and they will at once take up a line of march' for
the entrance of the new hive; if they gather
there, brush a few in with a wing or twig, and
they will call the others, who enter in a body
and accept the new hive as their home.

FOOD FOR Bans—It must be sufficiently ob-
vious that no artificial food can be so acceptable
or suitable to the bee as pure honey—the kind
of nutriment which the instinct of the creature
itself induces it to provide; refuse honey may
therefore, in preference to any other kind of
food, be given to the bees whenever it is really
required; but in many instances artificial food is
supplied. In spring it is recommended b com-
petent judges that even strong hives be ed, in-
asmuch as they are stimulated by the increased
temperature which the feeding occasions; but
that there ought to be no feeding~unless there
exists an unavoidable necessity for it—till the
hive exhibits some degree of animation; for the
bees often are tempted to go forth prematurely
in quest of flowers, and numbers in this way
perish, being unable to return home. As al-
ready observed, honey furnishes the best because
the most natural element, and it may very prop-
erly be rendered more liquid by a slight admix-
ture of water ; but various substitutes for honey
have been resorted to, and by no means unsuc-
cessfully.

BEE F EEDER.—An excellent bee feeder, and
one not covered, I believe, with a patent, is made
thus: Make a wooden box without a bottom,
somewhere about 8 by 10 inches, and 2 inches
deep. Nail over the top a piece of ood muslin,
leaving it loose enough to sag down it the mid.
dle nearly or quite to the lower edges of the
sides of the box—if intending to use it on the
top of box hives, it ought not to hang down
quite so low. N ow you can set this feeder,
muslin side uppermost, on the top of a box hive,
having opened the holes, or directly on the tops
of the frames of a movable comb hive. Pour the
honey or syrup on the concave muslin, and the
bees will take it from the under side. Cover the
whole apparatus so as to secure it from rob-
bers.

PASTURAGE FOR BEES. --Districts of country
where grain is extensively cultivated are less fa-
vorable to bees than thosein which fields abound‘
ing with wild flowers exist, and where clover,
peas, beans and similar plants are largely grown.
The blossoms of fruit trees of all kinds, and the
flowers of the broom, the furze, and the bram-
ble, all afford the bee great advantages for the
collection of honey and farina. The lanting,
too, in the neighborhood of the hives, o the cro-
cus, the blue hepatica, the black hellebore, and
mignonette, is also found to be favorable.

APIARY.

SUPPLY OF WATER.—When the season is dry,
and during the period of breeding, water is nec-
essary to the bees, in order not only to the se-
cretion of wax, but the due preparation of honey
and farina. If there be no natural supply of the
needful element within easy reach of the little
architects, a shallow vessel must be placed near
them, which may be frequently filled to the brim.
As a precaution against the danger of drowning
some of the bees, a thin piece of wood, perforated
with holes, may be placed so as to float on the
surface, covering every part of it. The holes
will be so many wells from which the bees can
draw their supplies without the danger of their
falling into the water.

SUNSHINE AND SHADOW.—Too much heat is
always injurious to bees; they ought not to be
left exposed to the sun in sultry weather. It
renders the insects extremely irritable, and ex-

oses the combs to the danger of being more or
ess softened, and even melted. It is very im-

ortant, therefore, to protect the hive by shelter-
ing it from the direct rays of the sun. A screen
adapted to the purpose is very suitable, or a mat,
which may be thrown over the hive. In our
opinion the screen is to be preferred, as causing
a grateful shade, and at the same time permitting
a better ventilation. On this subject an excellent
writer remarks, that bees “delight best in thick
forests, because there they find a uniform tem-
perature and a propitious shade ;” and he adds,
“ It is a mistake to suppose that bees exposed to
the sun produce the earliest and strongest
swarms; I have often experienced the reverse.
Bees like the shade when working, and the sun
only when in the fields.”

ENEMIES OF THE Bus—Domestic fowls are
destroyers of bees, and also some birds, from
whose attacks as they range the fields at a dis-
tance from the hive they cannot be protected.
Among these is the titmouse, or blue tomtit,
which devours the bees, and feeds his young
with them; and in winter is said to endeavor to
force his way into the hive itself. Mice are often
very troublesome, and even rats sometimes make
their way into the hive. Slugs and snails often
occasion much trouble; and especially in warm
summer evenings, the attacks of wasps and hor-
nets are a great annoyance to the bees. In all
these cases care and vigilance can do much.
Wasps’ ‘nests ought to be destroyed wherever
met with; insects of all kinds, such as earwigs,
woodlice, ants, etc., should be cleared away.
In a word, the hives and stands for them ought
to be kept as clean and neat as possible.

WINTERING BEES.—A good plan is to quilt a
mat of cotton batting, and place it on the frames
upon a cross strip, so securing winter passages
each side between the frames, and the quilt
against which the bees cluster and winter well
out of doors, the side honey-cases filled with cut
straw, or some other absorbing material. In
box hives an upper chamber or box should be
filled with straw, and the entrance contracted to
keep out mice. To winter bees successfully, only
three things are necessary—ventilation in the
right place, plenty of food where they can reach
it, and sufficient bees in number to maintain the
requisite animal heat. In colder latitudes, bees
are most safely wintered in dry, dark cellars, and
should be set on shelves, with the entrance
closed with wire cloth. The holes through the
top of box hives should be covered with wire

 

23

cloth, and the hives inverted and set on % inch
strips. They should not be put into the cellar
until cold weather comes on in earnest. A warm
and pleasant day should be chosen to put them
out again, for they will be attracted by the light
aqd fly out, when, if it be chilly, some will per-
15 1.

REARING QUEENs.——Premising that you use
movable frames, make a number of small frames,
as near 4 or 5 inches square as may be, to just
fit inside one of your large ones. Fill with clean
worker comb—that which has been frozen is the
best, because the eggs of the moth will have
been thus destroyed—and put the large frame
containing these small ones in the middle of some
stock with a fertile queen from which you wish
to breed. Provide also some small boxes on the
plan of a simple movable frame hive, with loose
top and rabbeting for the frames, and just the
size to accommodate ,three or four of them.
When eggs have been deposited in the combs,
set up one of your small boxes with them as a
hive in miniature, and confine in it between a
pint and quart of bees. They will immediately
construct queen cells, and may then be opened.
In this way any number of queens may be pro-
vided.

How To CHANGE COLONIES OF BLACK BEES
TO ITALIAN.—Since the queen is the mother of
all the bees in the hive, and deposits all the eggs,
it follows that they will all be like her. If then
the queen be taken from a colony of common
bees, and an Italian queen be put there in her
stead, all the eggs thenceforth laid will produce
Italian bees ; and as the life of the worker bee is
short, in from two to three months the old bees
will all have died out, and be replaced in greater
numbers by the beautiful Italians. These Italian
queens are now reared for sale by scientific api-
arians, and sent to any part of the world with
perfect safety. If a pure queen purely impreg-
nated is purchased and introduced to any colony
of black bees, an Italian stock is secured in the
best and least expensive way.

THE SAFEST WAY TO INTRODUCE AN ITALIAN
COLONY. ——Take away the queen of the colony to
which the Italian is to be given. To find her
most easily, open the stand in the middle of a
fine day, when many bees are absent from the
hive. Disturb the bees as little as possible, and
have an assistant to look on one side of the frame
while you examine the other. Look first on the
combs near where the bees cluster, as the queen
is apt to be there. As soon as you have found
and killed her, put the Italian queen, with three
or more of the bees that come with her, into a.
wire cage which always accompanies her when
sent, and lay this over the frames near the clus-
ter, or, if the weather be cool, the cage may
be laid between two frames. Leave her there
48 hours, and then, without disturbing the bees,
withdraw the stopper, and allow the queen to go
into the hive at her pleasure.

BEES WAX, T o W/zz'tm.——In March or
April melt yellow wax without boiling; then
having several pewter dishes ready, dip the out-
side bottom of each dish in fair water; then dip
them into the wax, and take up a very thin plate
of wax—the thinner the better; take them 03',
and expose them upon the grass to the sun, air,
and dews, until they be milk-white, turning
them often.

BEES WAX, To Bleach (Italian Method.)—

24

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTSV

 

The yellow wax is first melted in a kettle, and
then is dipped out into a long tin vessel that will
hold two or three gallons, and which has a row
of small holes, about the diameter of a knitting-
needle, in the bottom. This vessel is fixed over
a cylinder of wood 2 feet in length and I 5 inches
in diameter, which is made to revolve like a
grindstone, in one end of a trough of water, 2%
eet in width, 10 to 15 feet in length, and I foot

in depth. As the melted wax falls in small
streams on this wet revolving cylinder, it flattens
out into athin ribbon, and floats off toward the
other end of the trough of water. It is then
di ped outwith a skimmer (that maybe made
ofposier twigs,) spread on a table with a top
made of small willow rods, covered with a clean
white cloth, and then exposed in this way to the
sun until bleached.

CARPENTER AND BUILDER.

BUILDING HOUSES, flint: on.—I. Build
solid, substantial foundations laid up in cement
or mortar,-with footing-course projecting 6 inches
on either side, as this is a preventive against rats
burrowing under the foundation and entering the
house from the outside. Plaster the walls on
the outside flush and smooth with cement where
coming against the earth ; this prevents the sur-
face-water from percolating through the joints
of the walls and making your cellar wet and damp.
If it is a clay soil, and your house is situated
on a side hill, sub-drain your cellar, lead the
drain out to the lowest part of your ground, and
let it discharge on the surface. If your ground
slopes in all directions away from the house, the
above precaution is not necessary—2. Do not
su port the interior partitions to your house upon
brick piers in the cellar, with a timber girder
running from pier to pier, and the floor-beams
resting thereon. This is very faulty construc-
tion, as it admits of the shrinkage of the timber
girder and the floor-beams above it, producing
setting and cracks throughout the building.
These interior partitions sustain full as much,
if not more, weight than the exterior walls, and
therefore should have eight or twelve-inch walls
under all bearing partitions. Build these sup-
porting walls up to the top of the floor-beams,
so as to permit the stud partitions above to rest
directly on the brick-work, and therebyavoid the
shrinkage of the beams. All stud partitions
above the first story should, if possible, rest on
the heads of the partitions beneath, thus again
avoiding shrinkage and conse uent settling—3.
It is false economy to use lig t floor-beams, as
their constant vibration when walked upon is ex-
cessively annoying and unpleasant. They should
never be placed more than 16 inches apart be-
tween centres, and for ordinary spans should be
at least 2 by Io inches, and 2 by 11 and 2 by 12
inches for spans not over 18 feet. All beams
should be thoroughly cross-bridged, and all
floors should be deafened. This deafening
is not only for the purpose of deadening the
sound, but it also prevents any water that may
be spilled on the floor above staining the ceiling
underneath. It also prevents the rapid spread
of fire.—-4. All ceilings should be cross-furred,
the purpose of which is to bring the ceiling to a
true level and to prevent cracking—5. It is a
very good plan to have all doors hung on loose-
{lointed butts, so as to allow of their being easily

’fted of? the hinges, should they require at any
time to be eased or planed oh“. This is also a

 

great convenience on occasion of an entertain-
ment, as the doors can be removed and stored
away, and the house thoroughly thrown open to
the company.—6. All first-class houses should
have double floors. The first flooring may be of
mill-worked boards, and the finishing floor
(which may be of any wood desired) should not
be put down until the plastering is complete, and
the base and casings to the door are up; by
adopting this plan a very thorough floor is ob-
tained, as we avoid all the dirty and wet work of
the plasterer, and the wear and tear incident to
the passing to and fro oi the workmen. The ef.
fect of the shrinkage of the base from the floor
is also avoided, giving the work a better finish.
It makes a much more rigid floor, and ties the
building together much better, to lay the second
floor at right angles with the first floor.—-7. Al-
ways see that the plastering is carried down to
the floor, and by this means avoid as far as pos-
sible having any space at the back of the bases
board, wherein cockroaches and other vermin
may find refuge. Also plaster behind panel-
backs, under windows, and where the sub-sill
rests on the stone sill, to prevent the cold air and
snow from drifting in.—8. In wooden houses,
be careful to have all of the cappings and tops to
the windows and doors covered with tin, the tin
to be carried up underneath the outside covering
0r clap-boarding.-—-9. In conclusion, put yourself
at the outset in the hands of a good, thorough
architect, and be governed by him in the mode
of construction. Listen to his suggestions, for
he has had much more experience than you. Do
not desert him because he tells you candidly
what your building will cost, and go to others
who seek to persuade you that they can produce
the same amount of room at much less cost; for
this can only be done by the process of skinning,
which means leaving out those matters which are
contained in the above suggestions, and very
many more, all of which greatly contribute to
the durability of the house and the actual com-
fort of existence within it. In this, as in many
other cases, the best economy does not lie in the
fancied saving of money at the outset, but in the
adoption of wise lans.

BRICK-AIAKING, Applicatzbn (31" Me A472
and Small Coke If Ga: lVork: jinx—Mix from
to to 12 parts of the ash and Cinders with 1 part
of lime, after having first taken care to break up
the small pieces of coke, so as to be of no more
than about 5 centimetres cubical size. The mass
is mixed with some water, and next mixed in a

CARPENTER AND BUILDER.

25

 

pug-mill, and, after having become stiff enough,
formed into bricks by a brick-making machine.
The bricks are slowl but carefully dried, and
are, after drying, fit or use, making very solid
walls, while the material is very light, and es-
pecially suited for partition walls.

BRICR', T o I/VeL—Very few people, even
builders, are aware of the advantage of wetting
bricks before laying them, or, if aware of it, too
often neglect to practice it. A wall 12 inches
thick, built of good mortar and bricks well
soaked, is stronger than one 16 inches thick
built dry. The reason of this is, that if the
bricks are well saturated with water, they will
not abstract from the mortar the moisture neces-
sary to its crystallization; and, on the contrary,
they will unite chemicall , and become as solid
as a rock. On the other and, if the bricks are
put up dry, they immediately take up all'the
moisture from the mortar, leaving it to dry and
harden, and the consequence is that, when a
building of this description is taken down, or
tumbles down of its own accord, the mortar
from it is like so much sand.

BRICA’ WALLS, Cautingfir.—I. Take of
fresh Rosendale cement 3 parts, and of clean,
fine sand I part; mix with fresh water thor-
oughly. This gives a gray or granite color,
dark or light, according to the color of the ce-
ment. If brick color is desired, add enough
Venetian red to the mixture to produce the color.
If a very light color is desired, lime may be used
with the cement and sand. Care must be taken
to have all of the ingredients well mixed to-
gether. In applying the wash, the wall must
‘be wet with clean, fresh water, then follow im-
mediately with the cement wash. This revents
the bricks from absorbing the water rom the
wash too rapidly, and gives time for the cement
to set. The wash must be well stirred during
the application—the admixture to be made as
thick as can be applied conveniently with awhite-
wash brush. It is stated that this cement wash
will stand for years, that it is admirably suited
for brick work, fences, etc., that it is nearly wa-
ter-proof, but that it cannot be used to advantage
over paint or whitewash.-—-2. Sylvester’s process
for repelling moisture from external walls, is
easy of application and very effectual. It con-
sists in using two washes or solutions for cover-
ing the surface of brick walls—one composed of
castile soap and water, and one of alum and wa-
ter. The proportions are: % of a lb. of soap
to I gallon of water, and % a lb. of alum to 4
gallons of water, both substances to be perfectly
dissolved in the water before being used. The
walls should be perfectly clean and dry, and the
temperature of the air should not be below 50°
F1 ahéenheit, when the compositions are to be ap-
p 1e .

The first or soap-wash should be laid on when
at boiling heat, with a flat brush, taking care not
to form a froth on the brick work. This wash
should remain 24 hours, so as to become dry and
hard before the second or alum wash is applied,
which should be applied in the same manner as
the first. Four coatings will render the bricks
impenetrable under a very heavy pressure.

BRICK OVENS, How to Mafia—A brick
oven built in the old style, out of doors, entirely
separated from the dwelling-house, is more de-
su‘able and more safe, so far as danger from fire
was concerned, than if built by the side of the

 

fireplace, in the house. A good brick oven for
baking bread, pies, and cakes is worth all the
ran es and cook-stoves that one could store in
his itchen. In such an oven every thing will
be baked just right, above and below, through
and through. After a foundation has been re-
pared, let two courses of hard bricks be laic for
the bottom of the oven. Then build the mouth
and part of the sides, until it is desirable to be-
gin to draw the sides inward, when sand or me]—
low earth may be placed on the foundation, and
the surface smoothed off and pressed down to
the desired form of the oven. Now let the
brick work be built over this form of sand. Let
two courses of hard bricks be laid over the form
with the best mortar. After the last bricks have
been laid the sand may be removed. The bricks
should be soaked for several hours previous to
being laid, so that they will not absorb the mois-
ture of the mortar until it has set. Such an oven
will cost but a few dollars. Many eople can
collect a sufficient number of loose ricks and
pieces around their dwellings to build a brick
oven. Besides this, any intelligent man, though
only half a mechanic, can build such an oven
about as well as a mason. ,

BRICK BUILDINGS, [low to Paint—To
prevent the disintegration of exterior brick sur-
faces, caused by moisture of the atmosphere and
change of temperature, paint should be used to
cover the surface; and it must be borne in mind
that paints are durable mainly because of the
water-proof quality of the oil in which they are
used. The natural pigments—called ochres or
earth-paints—do not in any degree act upon the
oil; while others, as white leads and the chro—
mates of lead, do affect the oil chemically, and
impair in a measure its tenacity or water-proof
quality ; for these reasons it follows that the nat-
ural pigments are not only the most economical,
but the most durable, for painting brick houses.
It has been demonstrated that the most durable
paint for brick painting is a mixture of finely-
ground French yellow ochre, mixed with an
equal quantity, by weight, of American white
zinc. The color is a soft shade of buff, most
pleasant to the eye, and permanent to the last
degree, both in color and material. Venetian
red, an artificial ochre, or red oxide of iron, is
in common use; but it does not hold oil like the
yellow ochre, and makes a coating far less water-
proof. It is a seemingly durable paint, because
the stain which it imparts to a porous surface re-
mains long after the oil has been washed away.
It cannot be used with white zinc, because of the
unsuitable pink tint which it produces, and be-
cause this pigment, (Venetian red,) when tinted
with white, becomes highly fugitive in color.

The condition of the wall is also very import-
ant in painting brick surfaces. The work should
be done in dr , warm weather, when the moist-
ure which bricks absorb during the winter and
spring seasons has dried out; otherwise the
paint will not be apt to adhere tenaciously, but
will scale or peel off. The joints in the stone
coping on brick walls require constant looking
after. These should be made absolutely imper-
vious to water by the application of a mass of
soft paint-skins both on the top and edges; and
when this hardens to the point of cracking, it
should be removed and renewed. Mortar and
cement for such purposes are altogether useless.
The joint, too, between the wall and the coping

36

D! C T! ONAR Y OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

underneath should be well filled with paint-
skins before painting; for, no matter how wa-
ter~proof the surface may be, if the water be al-
lowed to percolate through the joints in the co-
ping, the integrity of the wall will be de-
stroyed.

CELL/1 RS, T a Ktqfifmm Fretzing.~——A novel
plan for this purpose is to take either old news-
papers or coarse brown paper, and with a strong
size paste them four or five thicknesses down
thoroughly to the stone walls of the cellar and
to the bare joists overhead, leaving an air space
between them and the floor. Before pasting, it
will be better to sweep down the walls and joists
thoroughly. It will not be necessary to press
the paper down into all the depressions of the
wall; every air space is an additional defence
against the cold. If this plan is adopted and
carefully executed the cellar will be frost-proof,
even if it is left unbanked.

CHI/IIIVE YS, To Build—Every chimney
ought, if practicable, to extend clear to the bot-
tom of the cellar, and rest there on a substantial
foundation, covered with a broad, flat stone, to
prevent the absorption of dampness by the

ricks. This will not only prevent accidents
from fire, but will prevent the superincumbent
weight from injuring the wall in any way. More
than this, when a chimney rests on a foundation
in the attic, or even in an upper room, during
long and severe storms such a large volume of
water usually falls directly into the chimney that
the bricks at the bottom become thoroughly sat-
urated. Consequently, the surplus water soaks
down through the wall below; whereas, if the
chimney had extended to the bottom of the cel-
lar, the walls would not have been injured by
the great fall of rain.

By building chimneys with double walls, leav-
ing an air space between them, an excellent
means of ventilation is secured, from the top or
bottom of rooms, as desired, b inserting venti-
lators in the outer chimney. T e heat from the
inner, when fires are used, will always make a
good draft upward.

To build a chimney‘ so that it will not smoke,
the chief point is to make the throat of the
chimney not less than 4 inches broad and 12
long; then the chimney should be abruptly en-
larged to double the size, and so continue for I
foot or more; then it may be gradually tapered
off as desired. But the inside of the chimney,
throughout its whole length to the top, should
be plastered very smooth with good mortar,
which will harden with age. If salt is mixed
pretty freely with the mortar used, moisture
enough will be imbibed to prevent the soot from
adhering. The area of a chimney should be at
least half a square foot, and no flue less than 60
square inches. The best shape for a chimney lS
circular or many-sided, as giving less friction,
(brick is the best material, as it is a non-con-
ductor,) and the higher above the roof the bet-

ter.

CHIMNE YS, Remedy fir smoking—From
experience it has been found that by the use of
fine wire gauze of from 36 to 40 wires to the
inch, as a screen blower, or guard, jud1c10usly
applied to registers, stoves, ranges, or stove
doors, little if any smoke W111 come into the
room. The atmospheric pressure prevents the
smoke entering the room through the gauze, and
if applied. immediately to the fire more smoke

 

will be consumed than by any other means. In
that case the wire should be kept two inches
from immediate contact with the hot fire.

COVERING BUILDINGS, Peru’s Compa-

rz'tz'on fan—Take the hardest and purest lime-
stone, (white marble is to be preferred,) free
from sand, clay, or other matter; calcine it in a
reverberatory furnace, pulverize and pass it
through a sieve. One part, by weight, is to be
mixed with two parts of clay well baked and
similarly pulverized, conducting the whole oper-
ation with great care. This forms the first pow-
der. The second is to be made of one part of
calcined and pulverized gypsum, to which is ad-
ded two parts of clay, baked and pulverized.
These two powders are to be combined, and in-
timately incorporated, so as to form a perfect
mixture. When it is to be used, mix it with
about a fourth part 0t its weight of water, added
gradually, stirring the mass well the whole time,
until it forms a thick paste, in which state it is
to be spread like mortar upon the desired sur-
face. It becomes in time as hard as stone, al-
lows no moisture to penetrate, and is not cracked
by heat. When well prepared it will last any
length of time. When in its plastic or soft state
it may be colored of any desired tint.
- DARKROOMS, To Li Mam—If the glass
in the window of a room—t e darkness in which
is caused by its being situated in a narrow street
or lane—is placed within the outer face of the
wall, as is the custom in building houses, it will
admit but very little light, what it gets being only
the reflection from the walls of the opposite
houses. If, however, for the window be substi-
tuted another in which all the panes of glass are
roughly ground on the outside, and flush with
the outer wall, the light from the whole of the
visible sky, and from the remotest parts of the
opposite wall, will be introduced into the apart-
ment, reflected from the innumerable faces or
facets which the rough grinding of the glass has
produced. The whole window will appear as if
the sky were beyond it, and from every point of
this luminous surface light will radiate into all
parts of the room.

DOOR-STEPS, of Concrete.—Make square
boxes at the door where the steps are wanted.
Then mix up coarse gravel or cement and make
a mortar or concrete, mixing in cobble-stones,
and fill the boxes or moulds. After a time re-
move the moulds, and place boards on the steps
for people to walk over till the concrete has
thoroughly hardened. If rightly made, 'these
cement steps will remain hard and perfect, and
neither the frost nor weather will injure them.
They should be made in the spring of the year,
so that they can have the summer and fall to
harden in.

FLOORS, 0i]rd.-—Oiling improves a floor in
several ways. Grease-spots, of course, will not
affect the wood thus treated; and much less
scrubbing than is necessary for a plain floor will
suffice to keep it clean. Moreover, the appear-
ance is improved by the oil. Many of our na~
tive woods, prepared in this manner, become
positively handsome. Finally, it gives the sur-
face a harder texture, which makes it wear longer
and more uniformly.

Paint costs more, takes longer to dry, and
wears off more easily, since it simplyforms a
crust or coating upon the surface; while oil pen-
etrates the wood. Hence an oiled floor looks

' CARPENTER AND 30720519.

27

 

better than a painted one, especially if a little
color, such as Van Dyke brown, umber, or
burned sienna is added to the oil.

To prepare a floor in this manner, take raw
linseed oil, or some cheap oil, not offensive in
odor, and capable of drying; mix it, if desired,
with some such transparent color as those men-
tioned above; and apply it with a common
paint-brush. Lay it on smoothly, so that it will
strike in uniformly over the whole surface, and
not stand in spots. This may be done at night,
after the day’s work; and the place will be ready
for use again the next morning. As far as the
oiled surface is concerned, it might he stepped
upon at once without injury ; but there wou d be
danger in that case of tracking the grease to
other parts of the house. A new coat of oil, ap-
plied in this way once or twice a year, is suffi-
cient to keep a floor in perfect order.

FLOORS, Soluéle Glam fora—Instead of the
old-fashioned method of using wax for polishing
floors, soluble glass is now employed to great
advantage. For this purpose the floor is first
well cleaned, and then the cracks filled up with
a cement of water»glass and a powdered chalk or
gypsum; afterward a water-glass of 60 to 65°,
of the thickness of syrup, is applied by means of
a stiff brush. Any desired color is to be im-
parted to the floor in a second coat of the water-
glass, and additional coats are to be given until
the requisite polish is obtained. A still higher
finish may be given by pummicing off the last
layer, and then putting on a coating of oil.

FLOORS, Cellar.——When it is inexpedient to
go to the expense of cement, an excellent sub-
stitute is secured by taking coal-ashes and mix-
ing it with water to the ordinary thickness of
mortar. It does not matter how many lumps or
stones there are. Put it on about 4 inches
thick; let it lay 24 hours, and then stamp it
with a heavy block of wood 3 or 4 times a day
until it is perfectly hard. It will be found to be
as good, if not better, than cement, and will not
crack or scale off.

FLOORS, far Basementr.—In the prepara-
tion for laying the floor, the ground underneath
is dug out, so as to leave what is termed an “ air
space” between it and the joists. The airing of
the under side of the floor is procured at the ex—
pense of the comfort of the upper surface, and
consequently of that of the house itself; for the
inch flooring is but slight defence against the
cold, which must necessarily find its way be-
neath. A far better mode of flooring basements,
cottages, dairies, etc., is' to spread on the ground
abed of air-slacked lime, on which the joists
should rest and be sunk, say an inch or two
deep, so as to leave no chance for air to enter,
and at the same time effectually keep out all ver-
min, as they will not attempt to burrow in lime.
At first sight this seems to be an expensive mode
of securing comfort, but it is quite the contrary.
Ten bushels of lime is ample for a square of IO
feet. (100 square feet,) and there are very few
localities in which lime is not cheap and plenty.
Such an underlaying of lime will prove a most
desirable preservative of basement floors, and
render a dwelling sanitary, warm and sound.

‘GRA VEL CONCRETE, fir [fauna—This
is the best building material in the world.
Where gravel is abundant, it is 4 times cheaper
than wood, 6 times cheaper than stone, and im-
mensely superior to either. Proportions for

 

mixing: To 8 barrows of slacked lime well del-
uged with water, add I 5 barrows of sand, (do
not use river or beach sand, as I have observed
this will absorb damp ;) mix these to a creamy
consistency, and then add 60 barrows of coarse
gravel, which must be worked well and com-
pletely. You can throw stones into this mixture
of any shape or size, to 9 or 10 inches in diam-
eter. Form moulds for the walls of the house
by fixing boards horizontally against upright
standards, which must be immovably braced, so
that they will not yield to the immense pressure
of the material as it settles ; set the standards in
pairs around the building where the walls are to
stand, from 6 to 8 feet apart, and so wide that
the inner space shall form the thickness of the
wall. Into the moulds thus formed throw the
concrete material as fast as you choose, and the
more promiscuous.the better. In a short time
the material will get as hard' as the solid rock.
If the gravel is free of dirt, the sand also clean,
and the weather dry, the walls can be raised one
foot each day, if you have help to do that amount
of labor. ,

Some prefer to makethe gravel and sand into
mortar and press it into bricks, and then lay into
walls; but the wall must be stronger if laid up
solid in board frames made to raise up as re-
quired.

Many persons argue for the eight~square or
octagon house; but I like the square form much
the best, carrying up the hall and main partition
walls of the same material. The eight-square
house looks like an old fort or water-tank, and is
very expensive to finish, costing much more
than the same room with square angles ; for me-
chanics cannot put up cornices, outside or inside,
in less than double the time required for making
the common square mitre. .

HOUSES, W/zen to Paint—Repeated ex-
periments prove that paint applied between N o-
vember and March will last twice as long as that
applied in warm weather. The reason is that in
cold weather the component parts of the paint
form a hard substance on the surface, as hard al-
most as glass. But in warm weather the oil
penetrates- the boards, and the paint soon wears
off

HOUSES, C/zoz're qf Color fin—The choice
of color for country houses requires the exercise
of taste, judgment, and an eye for harmonious
combinations. It is laid down as a rule by Cal-
vert Vaux, that every building requires four tints
to make it a pleasant object in the way of color.
“The main walls,” he remarks, “ should be of
some agreeable shade ofe color, the roof-trim-
mings, verandas, and other wood-work, being
either of a different color, or of a different shade
of the same color, so that a contrast, but not a
sharp one, may be established—a third and
fourth color, not widely different from the other
wood-work, should be applied to the windows,
blinds, etc.”

The greatest defect in the generality of coun-
try buildings is the too frequent use of white.
Another most decidedly objectionable color is
unmodified red, or those brown-stone tints, ap-
proaching to chocolate color, which are so fre-
quently used in the construction of town dwell-
mgs.

The simplest practical rule in the painting of
houses, is to choose aint of some neutral tint
that is quiet and satis actory, and let the facings

23

of the windows, cornices, etc., be painted sev-
eral shades darker of the same color.

LIGHTNING RODS, How to Erect—I.
The rod should consist of round iron of about I
inch in diameter ; its parts, throughout its whole
length, should be in perfect metallic continuity,
by being secured together by coupling ferrules.—
2. To secure it from rust the rod should be
coated with black paint, itself a good conductor.
—-3. It should terminate in a single latinum
point.—4. The shorter and more direct the
course of the rod to the earth the better; bend-
ings should be rounded, and not formed in acute
angles.—5. It should be fastened to the building
by iron eyes, and may be insulated from these
by cylinders of glass, (1 do not, however, con-
sider the latter of much im ortance.)——6. The
rod should be connected wit the earth in the
most perfect manner possible, and nothing is
better for this purpose than to place it in metal-
lic contact with the gas pipes, or, better, the wa-
ter )ipes, of the city. This connection may be
ma e by a ribbon of copper or iron soldered to
the end of the rod at one of its extremities, and
wrapped around the pipe at the other. If a con-
nection of this kind is impracticable, the rod
should be continued horizontally to the nearest
well, and then turned vertically downward until
the end enters the water as deep as its lowest
level. The horizontal part of the rod may be
buried in a stratum of powdered charcoal and
ashes. The rod should be placed, in preference,
on the west side of the building. A rod of this
kind may be put up by an ordinary blacksmith.
The rod in question is in accordance with our
latest knowledge of all the facts of electricity.
Attempted improvements on it are worthless,
and, as a general thing, are proposed by those
who are but slightly acquainted with the subject.

LIME, to Burn, W'z't/zaut a [film—Make a
pyramidal hea of large lime stones, with arched

urnace next t e ground for putting in the fuel,

leaving a narrow vent or funnel at the top; now
cover over the whole ile with earth and turf, in
the way that charcoal caps are covered, and put
in the fire. The heat will be more completely
dilTused through the pile if the aperture in the
top is partially closed. This produces a. superior
article of lime.

MORTAR.—Much of the mortar used in
building is said to be imperfectly made. Four
parts coarse and three parts fine sand, with one
part of quick-lime, well mixed with but little
water, makes mortar which soon becomes as
hard as adamant; resisting all atmospheric action
as durablyas the material it unites ; and with the
addition of a portion of manganese, it will harden
under water. .

MORTAR, [{YDRA Ulla—An easy way
of making hydraulic mortar out of ordinary lime
consists in adding to burned lime as much water
as it will take up without becoming pasty, and
allowing it to stand in heaps for 8 days, and
swell up. It is then passed through a wire
sieve with meshes about the fifteenth of an inch
in diameter, for the purpose of separating the
hard particles. The residuum of preceding sift-
ings, that have been exposed to water or moist
air, are to be rubbed up and added to the mass,
the whole to be well mixed together and then
piled up in hea s, protected from rain, till
needed. It may e preserved thus for years,
ready for use at any moment.

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

PART] T10NS.—There is nothing so con
cerns the actual strength of a house, internally,
as those division walls which are called “ parti-
tions.” They relieve the external walls of much
of their burden, and, more than that, they act as
braces or binders for the whole skeleton of the
house. Even the roof is dependent in a very
great degree on these partitions, as it is owing to
their presence and strength that the general con-
struction of a dwelling is more or less strong.

In view of permanency, partitions should al-
ways be well braced, and the braces so disposed
as to throw the superincumbent weight naturally
toward the walls. This office of the brace is one
on which its utility chiefly depends. Economy
is a reason for the employment of the brace in
parts of Europe, and in all countries where labor
lS scarce and dear; for it affords a chance to use
up stuff that might otherwise be wasted. Par-
titions, after being put up, should be suffered to
remain exposed for a suflicient time to the action
of the atmosphere to give a chance for shrinkage
before lathing and plastering on them. The
shrinkage of the joists on each floor, though‘but
one-eighth of an inch, is considerably increased
in the partition up through the house, where the
joists he on the partition-heads; for one-eighth
of an inch on the ground floor makes aquarter of
an inch on the next floor, and so on in the same .
multiplying ratio ; for this reason some builders
have considered it more advisable that partitions
should have no sills, but the studs be carried
down between the joists, and framed into the
head of the partition immediately below. Al-
though this is correct in theory, nevertheless the
sill is advantageous as making the partition much
stronger. This, with bridging, is apt to make
strong partitions. Where a partition is to be
framed so as to have a door leading from the
stairs into the drawing-room, and also with fold-
ing or sliding doors between the front and back
parlors, or other rooms, the head of the parti-
tion in this case should be well trussed with oak,
having a straining beam in the middle, two
queen posts, and two braces, with lead at the
abutment joints; these pieces are then to be
forced together with bench screws, and kept in
their places by wedges passing through the aux-
iliary heads.

Some authorities think that all plates and
cross-ties of such partitions should be made to
camber very considerably, the curve gradually
increasing as the stories ascend; and all the
floors, ceilings and door-heads should conform
to this camber, which should not be less than
half an inch on the first floor, and an inch on the
second floor, and an inch and a half on the third
floor, and so on in proportion. If this precau-
tion be not taken, in less than two years (think
those authorities) the floors and ceilings must
fall out of level at their centres, as much both
from the shrinlage of the timber as from the
strain upon it from burden. The door-jambs
fixed in such partitions invariably strain out of
square at their angles, more or less, in propor-
tion to the dryness of the timber, the skill exer-
cised in trussing the work, and the degree of
burden‘cast on the partition. Therefore all such
jambs should have their heads fixed somewhat
out of level, so as to settle ermanently to a cor-
rect square form, instead of being level, so as to
settle permanentl out of square. In general,
plates immediate y above the floors should be

CARPENTER AND BUILDER.

omitted, as the more horizontal timber there is,
the more shrinkage there will be, and conse-
quently the more settlement; and as such plates
mostly require to be cut through for doorways,
they are rarely of use as ties to the work. Un-
der each end of each truss a granite or any hard
stone templet, 3 or 4 feet long, should be set;
these should be strongest and longest where the
trusses act with most energy.

It may be added to this, that in many houses,
as at present built, the shakiness of all the floors
is caused by the cellar having no partitions, al-
though its ceiling supports all the partitions and
staircases of the whole house. We have often
corrected this entirely by placing cross-beams
and props in the cellar under the beams support-
ing the partitions, and, as nearly as possible, ex-
actly under the partitions and staircases them-
selves, and by wedging these props up till they
had raised the beams one-half or one whole
inch, and even more, if necessary. Floors
which were so shaky before that they vibrated
at every step, may sometimes be made solid and
firm in this way. Of course, the effectiveness
of the remedy depends a great deal on the man-
ner in which the house was originally built.

PLA S T ERING, Wall: and Ceilingr.—Par-
ticular care should be used in selection as to the
strength and length of the hair to be used in the
plaster for ceilings, and also as to. the substance
of the laths, which should in all cases be double.
The plaster should be laid on with the minimum
of thickness, a point much neglected.

\Vith regard to the quality of the sand, it can-
not be too good. Sand is apt to make the plas-
ter too “short” only when there has been too
much employed, and that with weak chalk-lime.
It is impossible that the admixture of loamy
earth in any proportion can benefit any descrip-
tion of mortar or plaster, and therefore clean
grit must be preferable to either pit or road
sand, for loam in any shape is detrimental in
proportion to its amount.

One word with regard to a possible substitute
for hair, as hair is becoming every day more dif-
ficult to obtain. In the pulling down of portions
of old work for the reparation of the Lollards’
Tower at Lambeth lately, some plaster of re-
markable hardness was found; it was far supe-
rior to any of the rest, and upon examination
,was discovered to have been mixed with chopped
rye-straw (recognized by several of the heads
which had been mixed up) instead of hair. This
plaster was wonderfully sound and firm. Possi-

ly other descriptions of straw might be found
equally suitable for the purpose, and at any rate
it.would be quite worth while making some ex-
periments on this subject. '

Having obtained a really good plaster to work
with, it is much to be wished that it might be
applied in a somewhat more solid and durable
manner than is usual, and that instead of flimsy
laths nailed under the joists or on each side of
partitions to receive it, short pieces of wood
were fixed in between the joists or quarters, and
the plaster trowelled on from front and back, so
as completely to envelope these pieces of wood.
By this means the plastering on partitions and
ceilings would not be merely suspended coats,
but integral portions of the structure, which,
when dry, would become almost imperishable
and incombustible. Thus, instead of being
flimsy, ill-connected things, inviting fire to de-

29

stroy them, and the means of conducting that
destroying element to all the other portions of
the building, they would be, as it were, thin
vertical or horizontal shields to prevent fire from
spreading and touching the timbers.

PLA 5 T E]? ORA/AMEN T S, Comporz‘lion
fine—Molds for casting plaster ornaments for
ceilings maybe made of a composition composed
in the following proportion : Rosin, % of a lb. ;
tallow, % a 1b.; beeswax, 6 oz. The object to
be copied is first oiled, and this composition
poured upon it until there is enough when cooled
to make a strong mold. Or amold can be made
from plaster-of-Paris itself, by pouring it upon
the object to be copied. If the latter be wood
or metal it should be well oiled, but if it is also
made of plaster-of-Paris it should be moistened
with water, but no drops must stand on it. The
plaster-of-Paris may be colored, while being
mixed, with oxide of copper .(dissolved) for
blue ; with ashes for pearl gray; with the vari-
ous ochres for red, yellow and green. Red and
yellow oxides of lead are used for red and yel-
low colors. Real mastic is made of say 14 parts,
by measure, of clean, sharp sand; I4 parts, by
measure, of pulverized limestone or marble dust;
of litharge one-fourteenth in weight of the united
weights of the sand and stone, and one-seventh
of the whole weight of the three in linseed oil.
The sand, marble dust, or limestone powder, are
well dried before mixing. Then mixed into a
ifnortar or plaster and applied to an oiled sur-
ace.

ROOFS, Composition fan—Take I measure
of fine sand, 2 of sifted wood-ashes, and 3 of
lime, ground up with oil. Mix thoroughly, and
lay on with a painter’s brush, first a thin coat
and then a thick one. This composition is not
only cheap, but it strongly resists fire.

ROOFING, A Cheap—First cover the roof
with ordinary tongued and grooved floor-boards,
the same as you would lay a floor; then take
roofing—paper, to be obtained in any large town
or city, and cover the boards with that, to be
laid on as shingles are laid, to lap over each
sheet about an inch, and fastened down with
large tacks. Over the paper spread raw tar.
Raw tar is that which is not heated to render it
thicker. It can be spread with a trowel made
of a shingle, about the sixteenth of an inch
deep. Next take a sieve, fill it with sand, and
sprinkle as much over the tar as it will absorb,
sifting on the sand as each course of tar is laid
on, beginning on the upper side of the roof,
about half an inch thick.

Such a roof should have a slight descent—say
I foot in 12, more or less; and the tar should
be laid on when the heat of the sun will not
cause it to run out of its place before the sand is
put on it.

A mortar made of tar and sand, like a thick
paste, will stop any leaks in roofs, especially
around ch n s, that can be covered by it.

ROOFS 0 TIM—For a flat roof, tin is,
beyond question, the most economical covering
that can be applied. If not neglected, it is ab-
solutely indestructible by external influences,
and will last a hundred years, in as good condi-
tion as when first laid on, if kept well painted.
Tin on a house-top should be well painted once
in 4 years.

For roofs, li ht, cool colors are preferable, be-

 

cause they re ect the warm rays of light, and

30

DICTIONARY 0F EVER Y—DA Y WANTS.

 

thereby lessen the expansion and contraction of
the metal, and the shrinking of the boards un-
derneath, and so lessen the liability of the tin to
crack in the seams. The temperature of attic
rooms in summer will be materially lower if the
roof be painted with a light rather than with a
dark color.

The writer has learned, from long experience,
that the finest French ochre is the most econom-
ical pigment that can be used for that purpose.
If, as is sometimes the case in country houses,
where the roof is a conspicuous object in the ar-
chitecture of the building, a dark color be indis-
pensable, the use of pure Venetian red, dark-
ened with lamp-black, is recommended as the
most durable and economical. If, by some pro-
cess, the oil used in roof-painting could be pre-
vented from becoming hard and brittle, it would
be a great gain.

The poorest oil-paint, however, is better than
neglect; and the best economy consists in keep-
ing tin entirely and thoroughly protected from
the corroding influence of dampness. Old paint,
which has become “ fatty” from exposure to the
atmosphere, is better than new for roof-painting.
Not a drop of turpentine should be used for
such work.

ROOFS 0F THA TCIJ, How to Make.—
Rye or wheat straw only should be used, and
must be carefully threshed with a flail to leave
the straws unbroken. Bind in bundles, distrib-
uting the butts of the straws equally to each end
of the bundle. A good roof cannot be made if
the straws all lie one way. It was always cus—
tomary to make the band three feet long, as this
gave a bundle of convenient size for handling.

n adry time we sat the bundles on end and
threw water upon them a day or two before we
used them.

The rafters are placed in the usual way, and
crossed by slats two by two, nailed 14 inches
apart, though x2 inches will do equally well.

Begin at the eaves and lay a row of bundles
across. Have an iron needle 18 inches long pre-
pared and threaded with oakum 8 feet long.

asten the thread to the slat and pass the needle
through the bundle to a boy stationed under the
rafters, making 3 to 4 stitches to the bundle.
The boy draws the cord up tight, and passes the
needle 11 through again, but on the other side
of the sat. By this means the first course is
sewed on. Succeeding courses are treated in the
same way, being laid so as to overlap the stitch-
ing. Lay the heaviest row of straw at the caves
to make it look well. When you come to the
ridge, fold the tops of the straw over until you
bring up the other side, then get some thin
sods, 10 by 14 inches, and 1% inches thick, and
lay them neatly upon the top, using a small
piece of board to clap them all slick and smooth.

oards put on like ordinary ridge boards will do
instead of sods, if preferred.

Get the point of an old scythe, about 18 inches
long; attach a handle, so that it will be like a
long knife, and with it “ switch down” the roof
all over, to carry off all the loose straws, and
trim the others off smooth. If well done, the
roof will be as smooth as a board. Stretch a
cord along the eaves the whole length of the
building, and trim off straight by it, leaving the

outside a little lower than the inside, which will.

prevent fis looking thick and heavy.
A roof made in this way will not be injured

 

by wind or rain, and it will last from 25 to 30
years. .
SCREWS in Sty? Wood.-—Screws, when
subject to strain, are apt to work loose in soft
wood, and the screw-hole should be first filled
with thick glue. If no glue is handy, put pow-
dered rosin around the hole, and heat the screw
before driving.

SHINGLES, To Pres/mt Decay qf.—The
following is said to effectually prevent the decay
of shingles: Take a potash kettle, or large tub,
and put into it I barrel of lye of wood ashes, 5
lbs. of white vitriol, 5 lbs. of alum, and as much
salt as will' dissolve in the mixture. Make the
liquor quite warm, and put as many shingles in
it as can be conveniently wet at once. Stir them
up with a fork, and, when well soaked, take
them out and put in more, renewing the liquor
as necessary. Then lay the shingles in the usual
manner. After they are laid, take the liquor
that was left, put lime enough into it to make
whitewash, and, if any coloring is desirable, add
ochre, Spanish brown, lamp-black, etc., and ap-

ly to the roof with a brush or an old broom.

his wash may be renewed from time to time.
Salt and lye are excellent preservatives of wood.
It is well known that leach tubs, troughs, and
other articles used in the manufacture of potash,
never rot. They become saturated with the al-
kali, turn yellowish inside, and remain impervi-
ous to the weather.

SHINGLES, Fire-proof War/z firs—A wash
composed of lime, salt, and fine sand or wood
ashes, put on in the ordinary way of uhitewash-
ing, renders the roof 50 per cent. more secure
against taking fire from falling Cinders, in case
of fire in the vicinity. It pays the expense a.
hundred fold in its preserving influence against
the effects of the weather. The older and more
weather—beaten the shingles, the more benefit
derived. Such shingles generally become more
or less warped, rough and cracked; the applica-
tion of the wash, by wetting the upper surface,
restores them at once to their original or first
form, thereby closing up the space between the
shingles, and the lime and sand, by filling up the
cracks and pores in the shingle itself, prevents
its warping.

STONE, Artificial—The new process, ac-
cording to the method of Sorel, of making arti-
ficial stone, consists in mixing magnesia cement
with suitable material; with sand it gives brick;
with flint, whet-stones and oil-stones ; with ka-
olin, ornaments of all kinds, statuettes, etc.;
with sawdust it gives a good material for cover-
ing floors ;. with carbonate of lime imitations of'
marble. .

The cement is applied in a liquid form, and
the mass sets in a few hours. The magnesia
must be carefully calcined and the materials well
mixed.

STONE, Prawn/ing tlze Surfacezf—The use
of oil for this purpose is not only difficult of ap
plication, but, perishable as it is, it would quick y
change its nature, oxidize, and thicken, until it
attracted the floating impurities in the atmos-
phere, and would only conceal the hastening
work of decay. A new method, devised by M r.
F. Ransome, affords a rapid and effectual means
of successfully preserving the stone, hitherto a
thing never accomplished. It consists in the
successive application of three solutions—the
first containing soluble phosphateof lime; the

CARPENTER AND BUILDER. -

3r

 

second, baryta; and the third, a solution of sili-
cate of potash, rendered neutral by the late Pro-
fessor Graham’s well-known process of dialysis.
These solutions successively applied combine,
and form an insoluble and imperishable mineral
compound, which efiectually resists the action of
the atmosphere, and, by indurating the stone,
at once arrests its disintegration. The extensive
experience which has been gained by the adop-
tion of this method places it far beyond the re-
gion of experiment, and justifies its recommend-
ation under nearly all circumstances. ,
TOOLS, T a Preserve from Rust—A coating
of 3 parts lard and I part resin, applied to tools
of iron or steel, will effectually prevent rust.
TOOLS, Art of Grinding—More than one-

half of all the wear and tear, and breakage and
bother of dull tools comes from a lack of proper
knowledge and practice in grinding. All steel,
however refined, is composed of individual fibres
laid lengthways in the bar, held firmly together
b cohesion; and in almost all farm implements
of the cutting kind the steel portion which forms
the edge, if from a section of a bar, is laid in
welded to the bar longitudinally, so that it is the
side of the bundle of fibres hammered and

ound down that forms the edge. Hence, by

olding on the grindstone all edge-tools, as axes,
drawing-knives, knives of reapers, scythes,
knives of straw-cutters, etc., in such a manner
that the action of the stone is at right angles
with the plane of the edge, or, in plainer words,
by holding the edge of the tools square across
the stone, the direction of the fibres will be
changed, so as to present the ends i_nstead of the
side as a cutting edge. By grinding in this man-
ner a finer, smoother edge is set, the tool is
ground in less time, holds an edge a great deal
longer, and is far less liable to. nick out and to
break.

Plane irons should be ground to a bevel of
about 35 degrees—Chisels and gouges to 30.
Turning-Chisels may sometimes run to an angle
of 45. Molding tools, such as are used for
ivory and for very hard wood, are made at from
50 to 60 degrees. Tools for working iron and
steel are beveled at an inclination to the edge of
from 60 to 70 degrees, and for cutting gun and
similar metal range from 80 to 90.

I'VINDO W SASHES, to Prevent Rattling.
v—The unwelcome music of rattling windows
will often arouse and electrify nervous and timer-
ous persons quite as effectually as if a band of
burglars were making an entrance into the dwell-
mg.

The remedy is by no means difficult or expen-
sive. Let the sashes be taken out of the window
frames, and every part of the window examined.
If the jamb-casings have been sprung, or are
warped and twisted, the first step will be to re-
move the stops and straighten the face of the
casings, which ma be done more conveniently
wlith a large rabbet plane and a smoothing

ane.

In case the sashes should be much too narrow
for the frame, let one edge be dressed off true,
and a thin strip fitted neatly and glued and nailed
to the edge of one stile. See that the outside
edge of such stile is not tapering, even by the
thickness of a heavy shaving. When the stiles
are tapering only a trifle, the sashes cannot be
move .up and down easily. Now put the upper
sash in its place, and fasten the central stop with

 

two or three long, slender wood-screws, after
which remove the outside stops, and place them
so closely to the stiles of the sash that the win-
dow will not rattle. Then let the stops be se-
cured on the inside so closely to the stiles of the
sash that it will move up and down easily, with-
out having so much play that the wind will rat-
tle it. When the sashes have been fitted as di-
rected, there will be no more need of “ weather
strips” of any kind to exclude dust and cold air,
and the expense of refitting a window as directed
will be much less than the cost of weather
strips.

WOOD, to Prevent Decay 2'n.——To prevent
the common occurrence of decay in wood, take
20 arts of resin, 46 parts of finely-powdered
chafk, some hard sand, a little linseed oil and
sulphuric acid; mix all together, and boil for a
short time. This composition, if applied while
hot, forms a kind of varnish, thereby preserving
the wood. , '

WOOD, Samuel’s Met/20d qf Preserving.—
The wood to be operated upon is first placed in
an air-tight cylinder and thoroughly steamed, in
order to vaporize the sap in the wood; the air
is then withdrawn from the cylinder, by means
of an air pump, until a perfect vacuum, or nearly
so, is created, which opens and frees the ores
in the wood, when a solution of sulphate 0 iron
is forced into the cylinder, under a ressure of
175 lbs. to the inch, which forces t 6 solution
through the pores. This pressure is kept up for
half an hour, giving the solution time to perco-
late or permeate every portion of the wood, when
a solution of carbonate of lime is forced into the
cylinder, which has the effect to precipitate the
iron, and in this manner forming a sulphate
of lime, thus coating or filling all the minute
cells of the wood with a mixture of oxide of iron
and sulphate of lime. The wood is then thor-
oughly cleansed and dried. when it is found to
have attained an extraordinary degree of tough—
ness, and capable of receiving a beautiful polish,
besides being rendered completely impervious to
rot of any kind, and impenetrable to insects.

WOOD, Stone Coating fan—40 parts of
chalk, 50 of resin, and 4 of linseed oi, melted
together; to this should be added I part of oxide
of copper, and afterward I part of sulphuric
acid. This last ingredient must be added care-
fully. The mixture, while hot, is applied with a
brush.

WOOD, to Render Ineonzémtz'blm—Man
confiagrations might be prevented, and muc
property saved, by rendering the wood work of

ouses secure against ignition. This can be
done at an insignificant cost, and with little
trouble. Perfect immunity is secured by saturat-
ing the wood-work with a very delicate solution
of silicate of potash, as nearly neutral as possi-
ble, and when this has dried, applying one or
two coats of a stronger solution. Another
method is to simply impre ate the wood with
a concentrated solution 0 rock salt. \Vater-
glass will act as well, but it is expensive. The
salt also renders the wood proof against dry rot
and the ravages of insects. Another method is
to immerse the wood in a saturated solution of
borax, heat being radually applied until the so-
lution reaches 112 Fahrenheit, and is then left
for to or 12 hours, according to the nature of
the wood and size of the planks.

WOOD, to Prevent it: Cracking—Wooden

32 .
stop-cocks, and other objects of wood, are liable
to crack. To prevent this lay them in a bath of
fused parafiine heated to 212° Fahrenheit, and
leave them as longas bubbles of air are given
on”. Then allow the parafl’me to cool down to

D! CTIONA R Y 01“ E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

its point of congelation, and remove the wood
and wipe off the adhering wax.
in this way are not likely to crack. The process

Objects treated

could be used advantageously for inlaid woods
and fine furniture.

CEMENTS, GLUES AND PASTES.

CEMENTS.
APPL YIN G CEMEN T S, Manner ty“-—-Quite

as much depends upon the manner in which a
cement is applied as upon the cement itself.
The best cement that was ever compounded
would prove entirely worthless if improperly ap-
plied. Good common glue will unite two pieces
of wood so firmly that the fibres will part from
each other rather than from the cementing ma-
terial. Two pieces of glass can be so joined
that they will part anywhere rather than on the
line of union. Glass can be united to metal, or
metal to metal, or stone to stone, and all so
strongly that the joint will certainly not be the
weakest part of the resulting mass. The rules
to be observed to effect this are: I. The cement
itself is to be brought into intimate contact with
the surface to be united. - The obstacles to this
junction are air and dirt. The former is univer-
sally present; the latter is due to accident or
carelessness. Unless the adhering layer of air
is displaced, the cement cannot adhere to the
surface to which it is applied, simply because it

annot come in contact with it. The most effi-
cient agent in displacing air is heat. Therefore,
the two surfaces to be joined are to be thor-
oughly heated before the cement is applied. 2.
Use as little cement as possible. When the sur-
faces are separated by a large mass of cement,
we have to depend upon the strength of the ce-
ment itself, and not upon its adhesion to the sur-
faces which it is used to join; and, in general,
cements are comparatively brittle.

ARAIENIAN CEMENT—The jewelers of
Turkey, who are mostly Armenians, have a sin-
gular method of ornamenting watch~cases, etc.,
with diamonds and other precious stones, by
gluing or cementing them on. The stone is set
in silver or gold, and the lower part of the metal
made flat, or to correspond with the part to
which it is to be fixed; It is then gently warmed
and the glue is applied, which is so very strong
that the parts thus cemented never separate.
This glue will strongly unite pieces of glass and
china, and even polished steel,'and may be ap-
plied to a variety of useful purposes. The fol-
owing is the reci e :

Dissolve 5 or bits of gum mastic, each the
size of a large pea, in as much rectified spirits
of wine as will suffice to render it liquid; and,
in another vessel, dissolve as much isinglass,
previously a little softened in water, (though
none of the water must be used,) in French
brandy or good rum, as will make a two-ounce
vial of very strong glue, adding two small bits
of gum galbanum or ammoniacum, which must

be rubbed or ground till they are dissolved.

 

Then mix the whole with a sufficient heat.
Keep the glue in a vial closely stopped, and ev-
ery time it is to be used set the vial in boiling
water.

ALABASTER CEMENYI—I. Finely pow-
dered plaster-of—Paris, made. into a cream with
water.—-2. Melt yellow resin, or equal parts of
yellow resin and beeswax; then stir in half as
much finely powdered plaster-of-Paris. The
first is used to join and fit together pieces of al-
abaster or marble, or to mend broken plaster
figures. The second is used to join alabaster,
marble, porphyry, and any similar substances
that will bear being heated.

ARCHITECTURAL CEMENT—I. Re-
duce paper to a smooth 1paste by boiling it in
water ; then add an equa weight each of sifted
whiting and good size; boil to a proper consist-
ence—2. Paper paste and size, equal parts;
finely powdered plaster-ofiParis to make it of a
proper consistence. Use it as soon as mixed.
Can be used in making architectural busts, stat-
ues, columns, etc. It is very light, receives a
good polish, but will not stand the weather.

BRUYER’S WA TER CEJIIEZVT—Mix
3 gals. of clay with I gal. of slacked lime, and
expose them to a full red heat for 3 hours.

BUILDIA’G CEflIENYI—This is made by
exposing a mixture of clay or loam, broken pot-
tery, flints, silicious sand, or broken bottle-glass,
with wood-ashes, to a considerable heat in a fur-
nace, 'until it becomes partially vitrified. It
must then be ground to a fine powder, sifted,
and mixed with one-third its weight of quick-
lime, also in fine powder, after which it must be
packed (tight) in casks to preserve it from the
air and moisture. For use it is mixed up with
water and applied like Roman cement.

BOTANY BA Y CEflIENT.—Yellow gum
and brick'dust equal parts, melted together. It
is used to cement coarse earthenware, etc.

CE/lIENT FOR AQUARIA.—Many per-
sons have attempted to make aquarium, but
have failed on account of the extreme diflficulty
in making the tank resist the action or water for
any length of time. The following is a recipe
for a cement that can be relied upon; it is per-
fectly free from anything that can injure the ani~
mal or plants; it sticks to glass, metal, wood,
stone, etc., and hardens under water. A hun-
dred different experiments with cements have
been tried, but there is nothing like it. It is the
same as that used in constructing the tanks of
the Zoological Gardens, London, and is almost
unknown in this country: I part, by measure,
(say a gill,) of litharge; I gill of plaster-of-
Paris; I gill of dry, white sand; % of a gill of
finely-powdered rosin. Sift and keep corked

CEMENTS, GLUES AND PASTES.

tight until required for use, when. it is. to be
made into a putty by mixing in borled 011 (Im-
seed) with a little patent dryer added. Never
use it after it has been mixed (that is with the
oil) over 15 hours. This cement can be used
for marine as well as fresh water aquaria, as it
resists the action of salt water. The tank can be
used immediately, but it is best to give it 3 or 4
hours to dr .

CEMENT for Altar/ling Mam] to Glam.—
Take 2 oz. of a solution of glue, and mix it with
I oz. of linseed-oil varnish, and % an 02. of pure
turpentine; these articles are then boiled to-
gether in a close vessel. The two bodies should
be clamped and held together for about 2 days
after they are united, to allow the cement to be-
come dry. The clamps may then be removed.

CEMENT/brA tracking Bras: lVor/c to Lamps.
—A cement particularly adapted for attaching
the brass work to petroleum lamps, is made by
boiling 3 parts resin with I of caustic soda and 5
of water. This composition is then mixed with
half its weight of plaster-of—Paris, and sets in
from half to three-quarters of an hour. It is said
to be of great adhesive power, not permeable to
petroleum, a low conductor of heat, and but su-
perficially attacked by hot water. Zinc white,
White lead, or precipitated chalk may be substi-
tuted for plaster, but they harden more slowly.

CEMENT for Broken Marlzlt.—Take gum
arabic, I 1b.; make into a thick mucilage; add
to it powdered plaster-of-Paris, 1%1b5.; sifted
quick-lime, 5 02.; mix well; heat the marble
and apply the mixture.

CEAIEzVT for Brick Walla—Cement for
the outside of brick walls, to imitate stone, is
made of clean sand, 90 parts; litharge, 5 parts ;

laster-of—Paris, 5 parts, moistened with boiled
linseed oil. The bricks should receive 2 or 3
coats of oil before the cement is applied.

CEMENT for China, Glass, Cracfitry,
Metals and I/Vood.—I. An excellent cement for
mending china may be made as follows: Take
the white of an egg and a little flour, which
make into a light paste; clear the parts to be
joined from all dust and dirt; spread some of the
paste on each piece and press them together;
while wet, wipe off the exuding portions, both
inside and out; then let it remain until quite
dry.—2. The following recipe we know from ex—
perience to be a good one, and, being nearly
colorless, it possesses advantages which li uid
glue and other cements do not. Dissolve 2 an
oz. of gum acacia in a wine-glass of boiling wa-
ter; add plaster-of—Paris sufficient to form a thick
paste, and apply it with a brush to the parts re-
quired to be cemented together. For Mending
Bra/em C/zz'mz, Glam, eta—3. Take I lb. white
shellac, pulverized; 2 oz. clean gum mastic;
put these into a bottle, and then add % 21' lb.
pure sulphuric ether. Let it stand % an hour,
and then add % a gal. 90 per cent. alcohol.
Shake occasionally till it is dissolved. ~Heat the
edges of the article to be mended, and apply the
cement with a pencil brush; hold the article to-
gether until the cement cools. This makes a
transparent cement.—4. A 12 Indian Cement for
Glass and Mada—Dissolve 5 or 6 pieces or
gum mastic, each about the size of a large pea,
in fjust as much spirit as will render it liquid.
Soten some isinglass by steeping it in water;
having dried it, dissolve as much of it in good
brandy as will fill a two-ounce phial; add 2

3

 

33

small bits of gum ammoniacum, previously rub-
bing them until they are dissolved. Mix the 2
solutions ; keep in a close phial, and when it is
to be used set the phial in boiling water.—-5.
Take a thick mucilage of gum arabic and stir
into it plaster-of—Paris—the broken images are
best—made very fine, to form a thick paste, and
apply to the edges with a brush, and press firmly
together and confine there two or three days. I
have pulled over 30 pounds with a ,wine-glass,
the stem of which had been broken and mended
with the cement.—6. Dissolve I oz. common
salt in I quart of water; bring to a boil, and
put in 1% lbs. gum shellac. When it shall be
dissolved pour into cold water and work like
wax. Make into small sticks. This will make
crockery as good as new.~7. Steep Russian isin-
glass 24 hours in white brandy; gently boil and
stir the mixture until it is well compounded, and
a drop of it, cooled, will become a very thick
jelly; then strain it through a linen cloth, and
cork it up closely. A gentle heat will dissolve it
into a colorless fluid. Broken dishes, united
with it, will break elsewhere, rather than sepa-
rate in the old fracture. To apply it, rub the
edges, place them together, and hold them 2 or
3 minutes.——8. A durable cement is made by
burning oyster shells, and pulverizing the lime
from them very fine; then mixing it with white
of egg to a thick paste, and applying it to the
china or glass, and securing the pieces together
until dry.-—9. Take 4 lbs. of white glue, 1%
lbs. of dry white lead, % a lb. of isinglass, I'
gal. of soft water, I quart of alcohol, and % a
pint of white varnish. Dissolve the glue and
isinglass in the water by gentle heat, if prefer-
red; stir in the lead, put the alcohol in the var.
nish, and mix the whole together.——Io. A ce-
ment that will mend marble, china, and orna-
mental ware, is made by taking water I gal.,
nice glue 3 lbs., white lead 4 02., alcohol, I
quart. Mix. Directions—If it is cold weather,
warm the bottle until the cement is dissolved;
then with the finger or a brush rub it on the
broken parts, (both edges,) put together, and
retain in their places until dry.—II. A cement
withstanding both heat and moisture is simply
pure white lead or zinc white, ground in oil, and ‘
used very thick. It is excellent for mending
broken crockeryware, but it takes a very long
time to harden sufficiently. The best plan is to
place the mended object in some store-room, and
not to look after it for several weeks, or even
months. After that time it will be found so
firmly united that, if ever again broken, it will
not part on the line of the former fracture.

CEZPIEN T for C/zemz'cal Giants—Mix equal
parts of flour, finely-powdered Venice glass,
pulverized chalk, and a small quantity of brick-
dust, finely ground; these ingredients, with a
little scraped lint, are to be mixed and ground
up with the whites of eggs; it must then be
spread upon pieces of fine linen cloth, and ap-
plied to the crack of the glasses, and allowed to
get thoroughly dry before the glasses are put to
the fire.

CEflIEN T for Covering #1: Frank qu’ourer.
-——50 parts, by measure, of clean, dry sand; 50
of limestone (not burned) reduced to grains like
sand or marble dust, and 10 arts of red lead,
mixed with as much boiled inseed oil as will
make it slightly moist. The bricks, to receive it,
should be covered with 3 coats of boiled oil,

34

laid on with a brush, and suffered to dry before
the mastic is put on. It is laid on with a trowel
like plaster, but it is not so moist. It becomes
hard as stone in a few months. Care must be
exercised not to use too much oil.

CEAIEN T, Calipermzitlz’m—Bullock’s blood
thickened with finely-powdered quicklime. It is
used to secure the edges and rivets of copper
boilers, and to mend leaks from joints, etc. It
must be used as soon as mixed, as it rapidly
gets hard. It is extremely cheap and very du-
rable, and is suited for many purposes where a
strong cement is required. It is frequently
called blood cement.

CEMENT/hr Clot/z or Belting—Take ale I
pt. ; best Russia isinglass 2 02.; put them into
a common glue kettle and boil until the isinglass
is dissolved; then add 4 oz. of the best com-
mon glue, and dissolve it with the other; then
slowly add 1% oz. of boiled linseed oil, stir-
ring all the time ,while adding, and until well
mixed. When cold it will resemble India-rub-
ber. When you wish to use this, dissolve what
you need in a suitable quantity of ale to have the
consistence of thick glue. It is applicable for
earthenware, china, glass, or leather; for har-
ness; bands for machinery ; cloth belts for
cracker machines for bakers, etc. If for leather,
shave off as if for sewing, apply the cement with
a brush while hot, laying a weight to keep each
joint firmly for 6 to 10 hours, or over night.

CEAIENT for Cztl/err.—I. A material for
fastening knives or forks into their handles,
when they have become loosened by use, is
a much-needed article. The best cement for
this purpose consists of I lb. of colophony, (pur-
chasable at the druggists,) and 8 oz. of sulphur,
which are to be melted together, and either kept
in bars or reduced to powder. One part of the
powder is to be mixed with half apart of iron
filings, fine sand, or brick-dust, and the cavity of
the handle is then to be filled with this mixture.
The stem of the knife or fork is then to be
heated and inserted into the cavity; and when
cold it will be found fixed in its place with great
tenacity.-——2. Black resin 4 lbs.; beeswax I lb. ;
melt them, and add 1 lb. of finely-powdered and
well-dried brick-dust.

CEMEzVT for (Edema—Take equal parts
of red and white lead, and wash them into a
paste with boiled linseed oil. It hardens slowly,
but afterwards acquires a flinty hardness. To
be applied it should be made thin, and the metal
thoroughly smeared with it.

CEMENT for Engz'neerr.—I. Mix ground
white lead with as much powdered red lead as
will make it of the consistency of putty.—2.
Mix equal weights of red and white ead, with
boiled linseed oil, to a proper consistence. This
is employed by engineers and others to make
metallic joints. A washer of hemp, yarn, or
canvas, smeared with the cement, is placed in
the joint, which is then “brought home” or
screwed up tight. It dries as hard as a stone.

CEJVENTfor Fastening C/Iamoz'r and other
Leat/ztr to Iron and Steel—Dr. Carl W. Hein-
ischen, of Dresden, gives the following recipe
for the above purpose: “ Spread over the metal
athin, hot solution of good glue; soak your
leather with a warm solution of gall-nuts before

lacing on the metal. If fastened in this way it is
impossible to separate the leather from the metal
without tearing it.

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

CEMENT fir Fartming to Mttals.—Any
fibrous material can be stuck to metal, whether
iron or other metal, by an amalgam composed of
glue dissolved in vinegar, hot, and one-third of
its volume of white pitch pine, also hot.

CEMENT for Fastening Ruéber to W'ozm'
and Metal.—As rubber plates and rings are
now-a-days almost exclusively used for making
connections between steam and other pipes and'
other apparatus, much annoyance is often expe-
rienced by the impossibility or imperfectness of
an air-tight connection. This is obviated en-
tirely by employing a cement which fastens alike
well to the rubber and to the metal or wood.
Such a cement is prepared by a solution of shel-
lac in ammonia. This is best made by soaking
pulverized gum shellac in 10 times its weight of
strong ammonia, when a slimy mass is obtained,
which in from 3 to 4 weeks will become liquid
without the use of hot water. This softens the
rubber, and becomes, after volatilization of the
Emmonia, hard and impermeable to gases and

uids.

CZMIEN T fir Floorr.—Take % of lime and
% of coal-ashes well sifted with a small quantity
of loam clay; mix the whole together, and tem-
per it well with water, making it up into a heap;
let it lie a week or 10 days, and then temper it
over again. After this, heap it up for 3 or 4
days, and repeat the tempering very high, till it
becomes smooth, yielding, tough and glossy.
The ground being then levelled, lay the floor
therewith about 2% or 3 inches thick, making it
smooth with a trowel; the hotter the season is
the better; and when it is thoroughly dried it
will make the best floor for houses, especially
for malt-houses. If any one would have their
floors look better, let them take lime of rag-
stones, well tempered with whites of eggs, cov-
ering the floor about % an inch thick with it,
before the under flooring is too dry. If this be
well done, and thoroughly dried, it will look,
when rubbed with a little oil, as transparent as
metal or glass. In elegant houses, floors of this
nature are made of stucco, or of plaster-of- Paris ,
beaten and sifted, and mixed with other ingre-
clients.

CEJIIEN T for Ga:-Filz‘er:.—Mix together
resin 4% parts 3 wax I part, and Venetian red 3

arts. \

p CEMENT fir Ga: Retort:.—A new cement,
especially adapted to the‘ retorts of gas works, is
very warmly recommended in a German gaslight
journal. It consists simply of finely powdered
barytes and soluble water-glass ; or the barytes
and a solution of borax. The joints are to be
coated several times with this cement by means
of a brush. The addition of two-thirds of clay
improves the cement, and the retorts will then
stand a red heat very well. Instead of the wa-
ter-glass a solution of borax may be used, or
even finely powdered white glass.

CEMENT for Gutters and Leaky Places.—
A good cement for gutters and leaky places may
be made of boiled paint-skins, if while hot and
thick, aportion of sand and fine lime be sifted
in. It must be used while hot, and when dry
will be as hard as iron, and as durable.

CE/WEIV T for [ram—Take 16 parts of steel
filings, 3 parts sal ammoniac, and 2 parts flow.
er of sulphur. This mixture can be preserved
any length of time in dry packages. In order to
lute with it, add to 1 part of the mixture 12

CEMENTS, GLUES AND PASTES.

parts of iron filings, and enough water, previ-
ously ncidulated with sulphuric acid, to form a
paste. This is now ready to be applied to the
erfectly clean surfaces of the metal to be luted.
or iron castings and small holes, the pulverized
iron (farm): pair/tram”: of apothecaries) can be
substituted for iron filings.—2. To 4 or 5 parts
of clay, thoroughly dried and pulverized, add 2
' parts of iron filings free from oxide, I part of
eroxide of manganese, ? of sea salt, and % of
orax. Mingle thoroug 1y, and render as fine
as possible; then reduce to a thick paste With
the necessary quantity of water, mixing thor-
oughly well. It must be used immediately.
After application it should be exposed to warmth,
gradually increasing to almost a white heat.
This cement is very hard, and presents complete
resistance alike to a red heat and boiling water.
-—3. 60 parts of pulverized cast-iron turnings
are mixed with 2 parts sal ammoniac and I part
flower of sulphur; and water is added till a paste
is formed. A cement is thus obtained which
spontaneously becomes hot, evolving sulphureted
hydrogen, and becoming soon very hard. Of
course it must be prepared immediately before.
4. Another cement is to mix equal parts of sifted
peroxide of manganese and well pulverized zinc
white; add a sufficient quantity of commercial
soluble glass to form a thin paste. This mix-
ture, when used immediately, forms a cement
quite equal in hardness and resistance to that
obtained in any other way.

CEMENT for Iron, Mot/zcr-ofl’earl, etc.—
Dissolve I part of isinglass and 2 of white glue
in 30 of water; strain and evaporate to 6 parts.
Add one-thirtieth part of gum mastic, dissolved
in % a part of alcohol, and I part of white zinc.
When required for use, warm and shake up.

CEMENT for Iron Boilerr.—This cement is
used to stop the cracks and leaks in iron boilers,
stoves, etc. I. Dried clay in powder, 6 lbs.;
iron filings, I lb. Make a paste with boiled
linseed oil.——2. Take 2 oz. of muriate of ammo-
nia, I oz. of flower of sulphur, and 16 oz. of
cast-iron filings or turnings ; mix them well in a
mortar, and keep the powder dry. When the
cement is wanted, take I part of this and 20
parts of clean iron filings or borings, grind them
together in a mortar, mix them with water to a
proper consistence, and apply them between the

omts.

CEMENT fbr Leather.———To Io parts bisul-
phide carbon and I part spirits turpentine add
enough gutta—percha to make a tough, thickly-
flowing liquid. The surfaces to be joined must
be perfectly free from grease, which is accom-
plished by laying a cloth upon them and apply-
ing a hot iron for a time. The coat is applied
to both surfaces, and pressure made till the
joints are dr .

CEMENT fir Leaf/ter Belting—Take of
common glue and American isinglass, equal
parts ; place them in a boiler and add water suf-
ficient to just cover the whole. Let it soak Io
hours, then bring the whole to a boiling heat,
and add pure tannin until the whole becomes
ropey or appears like the white of eggs. Apply
it warm. Buff the grain off the leather where
it IS to be cemented; rub the joint surfaces sol-
idly together, let it dry a few hours, and it is
ready for practical use; and, if properly put to-
gether, it will not need riveting, as the cement is
nearly of the same nature as the leather itself.

 

35

CEMENT flrLeat/zcr and Clat/z.—An ad- ,
hesive material for uniting the parts of boots
and shoes, and for the seams of articles of cloth-
ing, may be made thus: Take I lb. of gutta-
percha, 4 oz. of India rubber, 2 oz. of pitch, I
oz. of shellac, 2 oz. of oil. The ingredients are
to be melted together, and used hot.

CEMENT fin Ma/zogany.-Melt 4 parts of
beeswax or shellac with I of Indian red, adding
as much yellow ochre as is requisite to give
color. This cement will be found most suitable
for stopping holes and rents in mahogany furni-
ture.

CEMENT for Palm! Fucl.——One of the best
cements for the agglomeration of coal dust and
the manufacture of patent fuel is that used in
several European establishments, consisting of
coal tar, gluten and starch. The quantities of
these substances are altered according to the.
quality and property of coal dust; but they are
very easily ascertained by a few experiments.
About 2 per cent. of this mixture (say containing
2% parts of tar, I part gluten, and % part of
starch,) would be suitable for coal dust of an
average quality of bituminous coal.

CEMENT for Preventing Leaks A bout
C/zimneyr.-——Dry sand, I part; ashes, 2 parts;
clay, dried and pulverized, 3 parts. All to be
pulverized and mixed into a paste with linseed
oil. Apply it when soft, and when it becomes
hard water will have no effect upon it.

CEMENT for Roe/3- afHouJeL—Slake stone
lime in a large tub or barrel with boiling water,
covering the tub or barrel to keep in the steam.
When thus slaked, pass 6 quarts through a fine
sieve; it will then be in a state of fine flour.
To this add I quart rock salt and I gal. water.
Boil the mixture and skim it clean. To every
5 gals. of this carefully skimmed mixture,
add 94/, of a pound of potash, and 4 quarts of
fine sand or wood-ashes sifted. Both of the
above will admit of any coloring you please. It
looks better than paint, and is as durable as
slate.

CEMENT for Roamr.——l\I. Sarel, of Paris,
has made an invention which is pronounced bet-
ter than plaster-of—Paris for coating the walls of
rooms. It is used thus: Acoat of oxide of
zinc, mixed with size, made up like a wash, is
first laid on the wall, ceiling, or wainscot, and
over that a coat of chloride of zinc applied, pre-
pared in the same way as the first wash. The
oxide and chloride efl'ect an immediate combina-
tion, and form a kind of cement, smooth and
polished as glass, and possessing the advantages
of oil paint without its disadvantages of smell.

CEMENT/hr Steam Fifth—I. White lead,
mixed, 2 parts; red lead, dry, I part; grind or
otherwise mix them to a consistence of thin
putty; apply interposed layers with one or two
thicknesses of canvas or gauze wire, as the ne-
cessity of the case may be.-—2. (Stephenson’s.)
If,2 parts litharge are mixed with I part dry-
slaked lime and I part fine sand, well rubbed
together, and mixed with such a quantity of hot
linseed-oil varnish as to form a pasty mass, an
excellent cement for iron steam-pipes is ob-
tained, which soon sets hard. Consequently, it
must be prepared fresh every time, and applied
when still hot.

CEMENT/hr Slapping Crack: in flush—A
good cement for stopping cracks in jars may be
made as follows: Take equal quantities of white

36

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

\

 

lead and white sand, and as much oil as will
make it of the consistency of putty; in a few
weeks it will become as hard as stone.
CEMENT for Stont.—Bottger informs us
that a cement of extraordinary binding power is
made by using infusorial silica in place of quartz
sand. This infusorial earth is found in Germany
only, but it has been imported into this country
in considerable quantities. It consists of hy-
drated SlllCfl, which combines with bases much

more readily than silica in the anhydrous condi- .

'1ion, as in quartz sand. The infusorial silica is
mixed in about equal proportions with oxide of
lead; about % a part of freshly slaked lime is
then added, and the whole is then made into a
paste with boiled linseed oil. The cement thus
made quickly becomes as hard as sandstone, and
will be found extremely useful in such work as
fixing iron in stone for balusters and railings.
It is not likely, we think, to expand in setting,
and thus no risk of splitting the stone will be
incurred. In this respect alone it offers a great
advantage over Portland cement, sometimes used
for the purpose we have mentioned, which, ac-
cording to some authorities, does expand, and in
consequence of which one very serious accident
is supposed to have resulted.

CEMENT for Shawn—I. Good wood-ashes
are to be sifted through a fine sieve, to which is
to be added the same quantity of clay, finely
pulverized, together with a little salt. The mix-
ture is to be moistened with water enough to
make a paste, and the crack of the stove filled
with it.—2. An excellent cement for iron stoves
or furnaces is a paste of soluble glass and ba-
rytes, with or without some fine fire-clay, and
the soluble glass may be replaced by a solution
of borax, and both these and barytes by a mix-
ture of: clay and powdered glass.

CEMENTfor Tile Rafa—Equal parts of
whiting and dry sand, and 25 per cent. of lith-
arge, made into the consistency of putty with
linseed oil. It is not liable to crack when cold,
nor melt, like coal tar and asphalt, with the
heat of the sun. ,

CEJIEJVT, Ca:t-Iron.—Clean borings, or
turnings, of cast iron, 16; 5:11 ammoniac, 2 parts ;
flour of sulphur, 1 part; mix them well together
in a mortar, and keep them dry. When re-
quired for use, take or the mixture, 1; clean
borings, 20 parts; mix thoroughly, and add a
sufficient quantity of water. A little grindstone
dust added improves the cement.

CEMENT, Calortd.—Professor Bottger pre~
pares cement of diverse colors and great hard-
ness by mixing various bases with soluble
glass.

Soluble glass of 33° B. is to be thoroughly
stirred and mixed with fine chalk, and the col-
oring matter well incorporated. In the course
of 6 or 8 hours a hard cement will set, which is
capable of a great variety of uses. Bottger
recommends the following coloring matters :

1. Well sifted sulphide of antimony gives a
black mass, which, after solidifying, can be pol-
ished with agate, and then possesses a fine me-
tallic lustre. '

2. Fine iron dust, which gives a grayoblack
cement.

3. Zinc dust. This makes a gray mass, ex-
ceedingly hard, which, on polishing, exhibits a
brilliant metallic lustre of zinc, so that broken or
defective zinc castings can be mended and re-

 

 

stored by a cement that might be called a cold
zinc casting. It adheres firmly to metal, stone
and wood.

4. Carbonate of copper gives a bright green
cement.

5. Sesquioxide of chromium gives a dark
green cement.

6. Thenard’s blue, a blue cement.

7. Litharge, a yellow.

8. Cinnabar, a bright red.

9. Carmine, a violet red.

The soluble glass, with fine chalk alone, gives
a white cement of great beauty and hardness.

Sulphide of antimony and iron dust, in equal
proportions, stirred in with soluble glass, afford
an exceedingly, black cement; zinc dust and
iron in equal proportions yield a hard, dark-
gray cement.

As soluble glass can bekept on hand in liquid
form, and the chalk and coloring matters are
permanent and cheap, the colored cements can
be readily prepared when wanted, and the ma-
terial can be kept in stock, ready for use, at lit-
tle expense. Soluble glass is fast becoming one
of our most important articles of chemical pro-
duction.

CEMENT, Curd.—-Add % a pint of vinegar
to y, a pint of skimmed milk; mix the curd
with the whites of 5 eggs, well beaten, and suf-
ficient powdered quick-lime to form a paste.
This cement will resist water and amoderate
degree of heat.

CEMENT, Chinese.—I. Dissolve shellac in
enough rectified spirit to make a liquid of the
consistency of treacle.—2. Boil borax, I 02., and
shellac, I 02., in water until dissolved.

CEMENT, Diamond.——I. Isinglass, I 02.;
distilled vinegar, 5% oz.; spirits of wine, 2 oz.;
gum ammoniacum, % an 02.; gum mastic, %
an oz. Mix well.—2. Soak isinglass in water
till .it is soft; then dissolve it in the smallest
possible quantity of proof spirit, by the aid of a
gentle heat; in 2 oz. of this mixture dissolve
10 grains of ammoniacum, while still liquid add
% a drachm of mastic dissolved in 3 drachms of
rectified spirit; stir well together. When to be
used, liquify the cement by standing the bottle
in hot water, and use it directly. The cement
improves the oftener the bottle is thus warmed,
and resists the action of water and moisture per-
fectly.——3. (Ure’s.) Take 1 oz. of isinglass, 6
oz. of distilled water, boiled down to 3 oz., and
1% oz. of rectified spirit. Boil for 2 minutes,
strain, and add, while hot, % oz. of milky emul—
sion of ammoniac, and 5 drachms of tincture of
gum mastic. This recipe, carefully followed,
results in an excellent cement.

CEfl/[EN T, English Roman—Take a bushel
of lime slacked, with 3% lbs. of green cop-
peras, 15 gals. of water, and K of a bushel of
fine gravel sand. The copperas should be dis-
solved in hot water; it must be stirred with a
stick, and kept stirring continually while in use.
Care should be taken to mix at once as much as
may be requisite for one entire front, as it is
very difficult to match the color again; and it
ought to be mixed the same day 1t 15 used.

CEMENT, Entomolagz'3t’3.—Equa1 parts of
thick mastic varnish and isinglass size.

CEflIENT, Elartz’t Callodion.—Ordinary
collodion is made by dissolving 8 arts of gun.
cotton in 125 parts of ether and parts of al.
cohol. When used as a cement or varnish, it

CEMENTS, GLUES AND PASTES.

37

 

becomes very hard, cracks easily, and peels off.
It may be rendered elastic by the addition of 4
parts of Venetian turpentine and 2 parts of ms
tor oil. When intended for surgical purposes,
as a varnish, which, when dry, forms a perfectly
close-fitting plaster, it has been found that the
addition of some glycerine to the ordinary collo-
dion, in which it is dissolved to a small extent,
makes a varnish which adheres strongly to the
skin, does not crack, and, on account of its elas-
ticit , does not crease the skin.

CyEJlIEN T, Egg—White of egg, thickened
with finely-powdered quick—lime. Used to mend
earthenware, glass, china, marble, alabaster,
spar ornaments, etc. It does not resist mois—
ture. ,

CEMENT, Electrical and C/zemical.~(Sing-
er’s.) I. Resin, 5 lbs. ; wax and dry red ochre
in fine‘ powder, of each I 1b.; plaster-of.Paris,
402.; melt the first two, then add the ochre,
and lastly the plaster.—2. Black ‘esin, 7 lbs.;
well dried red ochre and plaster, of each I lb. ;
as above. Used to cement the plates in voltaic
troughs, join chemical vessels, etc.

CEAIEJVT, French—Make a thick mucilage
with gum arabic and water, then add starch in
fine powder to thicken it. Employed by natu-
ralists and French artificial-flower makers. A
little lemon juice is sometimes added.

CEMENT, German—For glass or earthen-
ware. I. Take 2 parts of gum shellac, and I
part of Venice turpentine; heat them together
in an iron pot, taking care to keep the lid quite
close, as the turpentine is very inflammable.
When partially cool form into sticks ; when it is
wanted for use melt near a gentle fire.—-2. 2
measures of litharge, and I each of unslaked
lime and flint glass; each to be pulverized sep-
arately before mixing; then, to use it, wet it up
with old drying oil.

CEMENT, Glarr-grina’tr’r.—I. Melt pitch,
and add thereto % of its weight each of finely-
powdered wood-ashes and hard tallow. For
coarse work.———2. Melt 4 lbs. of black resin, and
then add I lb. each of beeswax and whiting, pre-
viously heated red hot, and stillwarm. Intended
to fix articles while grinding.

CEMENT, Glycerina—Glycerine and lith-
arge, stirred to a paste, hardens rapidly, and
makes a durable cement for iron upon iron, for
two stone surfaces, and especially for fastening
iron in stone. The cement is insoluble, and is
not attacked by strong acids.

CEMENT, Harri—I. To 4 or 5 parts of
clay, thoroughly dried and pulverized, add 2
parts of fine iron filings free from oxide, I part
of peroxide of manganese, % of sea salt, and %
of borax. Mingle thoroughly and render as
fine as possible, then reduce to a thick paste
with the necessary quantity of water, mixing
thoroughly. This should be used immediately.
After application it should be exposed to heat,
gradually increasing almost to white heat. This
cement is very hard, and presents a complete re-
sistance alike to red heat and boiling water.—2.
To equal parts of sifted peroxide of manganese
“and well pulverized zinc white, add a sufficient
quantity 0 commercial soluble glass to form a
thin paste. This mixture, when used immedi-
ately, forms a cement quite equal in hardness
and resistance to that obtained by the first
method.

CEMENT, llydraulic.-(Gad’s.) Mix 3

 

lbs. of well-dried and powdered clay with I 1b.
of oxide of iron; then add as much boiled oil
as will reduce them to a stiff paste. Used for
work required to harden under water.

CEMENT, 11am:1in’.r.—-—To any given weight
of the earth or earths, commonly pit sand, river
sand, rock sand, or any other sand of the same.
or the like nature, or pulverized earthenware or
porcelain, add 9% of the given weight of the
earth or earths, commonly called Portland stone,
Bath stone, or any other stone of the same or
like nature, pulverized. To every 560 lbs. of
these earths, so prepared, add 40 lbs. of litharge,
and with the last-mentioned given weights com-
bine 2 lbs. of pulverized glass or flint stone.
Then join to this mixture 1 lb. of mintum and 2
lbs. of grey oxide of lead.

When this composition is intended to be made
into cement, to every 605 lbs. of the composition
are added 5 gals. of vegetable oil, as linseed oil,
walnut oil, or pink oil. The composition is then
mixed in a similar way to mortar.

When this cement is applied to the purpose of
covering buildings intended to resemble stone,
the surface of the building is washed with oil.

CEMENT, [romrmzt—Take 100 parts iron
filings, pounded and sifted; add I part sal am-
monia. When it is applied, give it sufficiency
of water to make it of paste consistency. This
cement is used for filling up seams of iron.

CEMENT, [ram—To make an iron cement
suitable for making rust joints, mix thoroughly
II2 lbs. of clean cast-iron borings, or turnings,
with 8 oz. of sal ammonia, and I 02. of flower
of sulphur, and add sufficient water. Keep wet
when not to be immediately used, or it will heat
and be spoiled.

CEAIENT, India R11Mcr.-——Dissolve I lb. of
pure India rubber, divided into small fragments,
in 4 gals. of rectified coal-tar naphtha, with fre-
quent stirring. Afterglo or 12 days double the
quantity, by weight, of this liquid is added of
shellac. This mixture is heated in an iron ves-
sel having a discharge pipe at the bottom, and
when the whole has become liquid it is drawn

out upon slabs where it cools in the form of
plates. When required for use it is heated $9.

an iron vessel to a temperature of 258°, and a, ~
plied with a brush to the surfaces to be joined.
It is so strong that wooden beams and posts
joined with it will break elsewhere before being
divided at the place of splicing.

CEAIENT, yafantres—lntimately mix the
best powdered rice with a little cold water, and
then gradually add boiling water until a proper
consistence is acquired, being particularly care-
ful to keep it well stirred all the time; lastly, it
must be boiled for I minute in a clean saucepan
or earthen pipkin. This glue is beautifully
white and transparent, for which reason it is
well adapted for fancy paper work, which re-'
quires a strong and colorless cement.

CEMENT, ymc/lefrr—Take 6 ieces of
gum mastic the size of peas, and dissoljve in the
smallest possible quantity of alcohol. Soften
some isinglass in water, and saturate strong
brandy with it till you have 2 oz. of glue; then
rub in 2 small pieces of sal rmmoifiac. Mix the
2 preparations at a heat. Keep well stoppered.
Set the bottle in hot water before using. It is
said by the Turks that this preparation will unite
2 metallic surfaces, ever polished steel, so that
they cannot be separated.

38

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

CEIlIEN T, K'ouria—A new gum, obtained
from trees in New Zealand, has been introduced.
It is called kourie, and has been found to be a
most excellent, strong, and waterproof cement
for caulking tanks and cementing pieces of glass,
stone or wood together. Before using it IS tused
and mixed with % part of its weight of castor

Oll.

CEMENT, Liquid—Cut gum shellac in 70
per cent. alcohol; put it in phials, and it is
ready for use. Ap)ly it to the edge of the
broken dish with a ileather, and hold it in a spirit
lamp as long as the cement will simmer, then
join together evenly, and when cold the dish
will break in another place first, and is as strong
as when new.

CEMENT, [Mirror-topic.-—Isinglass, 2 parts ;
gum, I part; water, 2 parts. Dissolve, then
mix in alcohol, I part.

CEMENT, Optician’s.—I. Shellac, softened
with rectified spirits or wood naphtha. For fine
work—2. Melt wax, I oz, and rosin, 15 oz.;
then add whiting, 4 02., previously made red
hot, and still warm. Used to fix glasses, stones,
etc., while polishing and cutting.

CEMENT, Parabolic.——Curdle skim milk,
press out the whey, and dry the curd by a gen-
tle heat, but as quickly as possible. .. When it
has become quite dry, grind it to powder in a
cofiee or pepper- mill, and mix it with one-six-
teenth of its weight of finely-powdered quick-
lime, and a piece of camphor the size of a pea,
also reduced to powder, to every ounce of the
mixture. Keep it in wide-mouth I oz. phials,
well corked. When to be used, make it into a
paste with a little water, and apply it immedi-

atel .

Cari/WEN T, Plumber’:.—Melt black resin, 1
1b.; then stir in brick-dust, I to 2 1b.; some-
times a little tallow is added.

CEMENT, Pea:1ey.——-Prepare a solution 'of
200 parts of white glue in water; another one
of 50 parts of isinglass, 3 of gum arabic, and 3
of tragacanth; and finally, another of I part of
bleached shellac in alcohol. Then pour these 3
solutions together, mix them with 24 parts of
white lead, and, at the last, 12 parts of the best
glycerine, and 200 parts of alcohol. The mastic
thus obtained should be immediately put up in
bottles and well corked.

CEMENT, [fire Flown—An admirable ce-
ment may be made from rice flour, which is at
present used for that purpose in China and Ja-
pan. It is only necessary to incorporate the
rice flour intimately with cold water, and gently
simmer it over a fire, when it readily forms a
delicate and durable cement, not only answering
all the purposes of common paste, but admirably
adapted for joining together paper, cards, etc. ,
in forming the various beautiful and tasteful or-
naments which afford much employment and
amusement to the ladies. When made of the
consistence of plaster clay, models, busts, bas-
relievos, etc., may be formed of it, and the ar-
ticles, when dry, are susceptible of a high pol-
ish, and are also very durable.

CEMENT, Real—This cement, which is em-
plo ed by instrument makers for cementing
glass to metals, and which is very cheap, and is
very useful for a variety of purposes, is made by
melting 5 parts of black resin, 1 part of yellow
wax, and then stirring in gradually I part of red
ochre or Venetian red,_ in fine powdertand pre-

 

viously well dried. This cement requires to be
melted before use, and it adheres better if the
objects to which it is applied are warmed.

‘ NT, Roman.—Genuine Roman ce<
ment consists of puzzalene, (a ferruginous clay
from Puteoli, calcined by the fires of Vesuvius,)
lime and sand, mixed up with soft water. The
only pre aration which the puzzolzm undergoes
is that o pounding and sifting; but the ingredio
cuts are occasionally incorporated with bullock’s
blood and oil, to give the composition more te~
naeity.

CEMENT, Seal Engraver’:.—Common resin
and brick-dust melted together. Used to fix the
pieces of metal while cutting, and also to secure
seals and tools in their handles. The older it
gets the harder it grows.

S C171 01 CA 0.—A new Chinese composition,
which has the property of making wood and
other substances perfectly water-tight. It con-
sists of 3 ar“ of blood, (deprived of its fibrine,)
4 parts ofP lime, and a little alum.

CEMENT, Water and Fire—proofl—To % a
pint of milk put an equal quantity of vinegar, in
order to eurdle it; then separate the curd from
the whey, and incorporate the whey with 4 or 5
eggs, beating the whole well together. When it
is well incorporated, add a little quick~1ime
through a sieve, until it has acquired the consist-
ence of a thick paste. With this broken vessels
may be united. It resists water and, in a meas-
ure, fire.

CEMENT; Water.—Good gray clay, 4
parts ; black oxide of manganese, 6 parts; good
limestone, reduced to powder by sprinkling it
with water, 90 parts; incorporate, calcine and
powder.

GLUES.

CL UE, CemenL—Take of isinglass and
parchment size, each 1 oz., sugar candy and gum
tragacanth, each 2 drachms ; add to them I oz.
water, and boil the whole together till the solu-
tion appears (when cold) of the consistency of
glue; then pour it into any form you please. If
this glue be wet with the tongue, and rubbed on
the edges of paper, silk or leather that are to be
cemented, they will, being laid together, pressed
slightly, and suffered to dry, be as firmly united
as other parts of the substance.

GL UE, Flexiéle.—A German chemist has
discovered that if glue or gelatine be incorpo-
rated with about % of its weight of glycerine,
it loses its brittleness, and becomes useful for
many purposes for which it is otherwise unfit,
such as dressing leather, giving elasticity to por-
celain, parchment or enameled paper, and for
bookbinding.

GI, UE, flow to Us: [rt—To do good gluing,
the work must be well fitted, the parts to be
glued well warmed, and the glue well cooked
and brought to the proper consistency. Having
clamps, hand-screws, etc., ready, after applying
the glue put together immediately, bringing the
parts firmly together, leaving no body of glue
between. Finally, use only the best glue.

GL UE, it: Manufacturt.—Glue is principally
prepared from the parings and waste-pieces of
hides and skins, the refuse of tanneries, and the
tendons and other offal of slaughter-houses.
All these should be preferably obtained and kept
in the dry state, to prevent decomposition. For
use, they are first steeped for 14 or I 5 days in

CEMENTS, GLUES AND PASTES.

39

 

milk of lime, and then drained and dried; this
constitutes the cleaning or the preparation. Be-
fore conversion into glue, they are usually again
steeped in weak milk of lime, well washed in
water, and exposed to the air for 24 hours.
They are then placed in a copper boiler % filled
with water, and furnished with a perforated
false bottom, to prevent them from burning, and
as much is piled on as will fill the vessel and
rest on the top of it. Heat is next applied, and
gentle boiling continued until the liquor on cool-
ing forms a firm gelatinous mass. The clear
portion is then run off into another vessel, where
it is kept hot by a water-bath, and allowed to re
pose for some hours to deposit, when it is run
into the congealing boxes, and placed in a cool
situation. The next morning the cold gelatinous
masses are turned out upon boards wetted with
water, and are cut horizontally into thin cakes
with a stretched piece of brass wire, and then
into smaller cakes with a moistened flat knife.
These cakes are then placed upon nettings to
dry, after which they are dipped one by one into
hot water, and slightly rubbed with a brush
wetted with boiling water, to give them a gloss ;
they are lastly stove-dried for sale. During this
time the undissolved portion of skins, etc., left
in the copper is treated with fresh water, and the
whole operation is repeated again and again, as
long as any gelatinous matter is extracted. The
first runnings produce the palest and best glue.
The refuse matter from the tanners and leather
dressers yields on the average, when dried, 50
per cent. of its weight of glue.

LIQUID GLUE.-—I. Dissolve bruised or-
ange shellac in % of its weight of rectified
spirit, or of rectified wood naphtha, by a gentle
heat. It is very useful as a general cement and
substitute for glue—2. Another kind may be
made by dissolving I oz. of borax in 12 oz. of
soft water, adding 2 oz. of bruised shellac, and
boiling till dissolved, stirring it constantly.-—3.
Dissolve 1000 parts of glue in 1000 parts, by
weight, of water, in a glazed pot over a gentle
fire. When it is melted, add nitric acid (sp. gr.
['32) 200 parts, pouring it in very gradually.
An etfervescence is caused by the escape of hy-

onitrous acid. When all the acid is added, a1-
ow the solution to cool.—4. Dissolve I part of
powdered alum in 120 parts of water; add 120
parts of glue, IO of acetic acid, and 40 of alco-
hol, and digest. Prepared glue is made by (lis-
solving common glue in warm water, and then
adding acetic acid (strong vinegar) to keep it.
Dissolve I lb. of best glue in 1% pint of water.
and add I pint of vinegar. It is ready for use.

LIQUID GLUE, for Labelin upon Tin.—
Boiling water, I quart; borax, pu verized, 2 02.;
put in the borax; then add gum shellac, 4 oz.,
and boil until dissolved.

MARINE GLUE.—Mix together gum san-
daric, % lb. ; gum mastic, % 1b., and methy-
lated spirit, 8 lbs. When the gums are dis-
solved, add % lb. turpentine, and incorporate
this with a thick, hot solution of the best glue,
(to which a little isinglass has been added to
clarify it,) and filter through muslin. The ma-
rine glue will be impervious to moisture, and
will not soften in any ordinarily hot weather.

MOUTH GLUE.—This article affords a
very convenient means of uniting papers, and
other small, light objects; it is made by dis-
solving, with the aid of heat, pure. glue (as gel-

 

atine or fparchment glue) with about % of its
weight 0 coarse brown sugar, in as small a
quantity of boiling water as possible; this, when
perfectly liquid, should be cast into thin cakes on
a flat surface very slightly oiled, and as it cools
cut up into pieces of a convenient size. When
required for use, one end may be moistened by
the mouth, and it is then ready to be rubbed on
any substances it may be wished to join ; a piece
kept in the desk or work-box is very convenient.

PAICCHMENT GI. UE.—Parchrnent shav-
ings, I lb. ; water, 6 quarts. Boil until dis-
solved, then strain and evaporate slowly to the
proper consistence. Use a water-bath if you
want it very light colored.

PORTABLE GLUE, for Draug/zlrmm, etc.
-—-Glue, 5 parts ; sugar, 2 parts ; water, 8 parts.
Melt in a water~bath, and cast it in moulds.
For use, dissolve in warm water.

SPA ULDI/VG’S GLUE.-—~First soak in cold
water all the glue you wish to make at one time,
using only glass, earthen or porcelain dishes;
then by gentle heat dissolve the glue in the same
water, and pour in a little nitric acid, sufficient
to give the glue a sour taste, like vinegar, or I
02. to each lb. of glue.

IVA TEE—PROOF GL UE.—I oz. of gum
sandarac and I oz. of mastic are to be dissolved
together in a pint of alcohol, to which I oz. of
white turpentine is to be added. At the same
time a very thick glue is to be kept ready, mixed
with a little isinglass. The solution of the res-
ins in alcohol is to be heated to boiling in a glue
pot, and the glue added gradually with constant
stirring, so as to render the whole mass homo-
geneous. After the solution is strained through
a cloth, it is ready for use, and is to be applied
hot. It dries quickly and becomes very hard,
and surfaces of wood united by it do not sepa.
rate when immersed in water.

MUCILAGES.

MUCILAGE.—I. Put 3 oz. of gum arabic
in an earthenware vessel containing % a pint of
cold water. If the liquid is occasionally stirred,
the gum in 24 hours will be dissolved and the
mixture ready for use. Cloves will keep it from
moulding—2. Fine clean glue, I 11).; gum ara-
bic, IO 02.; water, I quart; melt by heat in a
glue kettle or water-bath ; when entirely melted,
add slowly 10 02. strong nitric acid, and set off
to cool. Then bottle, adding a couple of cloves
to each bottle.

MUCILA GE, SALER—For a 6 oz. mixture,
place into a flask I oz. of cold water, and 30 grs.
of powdered salep; shake well together; then
add 7 oz. of boiling water, with which the whole
is shaken until nearly cold.

PASTES.

PASTE, T/zat W'z'll Kat}? a Wan—I. Dis-
solve a teaspoonful of alum in a quart of warm
water. When cold, stir in as much flour as will
give it the consistency of thick cream, being par-
ticular to beat up all the lumps ; stir in as much
powdered resin as will stand on a dime, and
throw in half-a-dozen cloves to give a pleasant
odor. Have on the fire a teacupful of boiling
water; pour the flour mixture into it, stirrin
well all the time. In a very few minutes it wi
be of the consistency of mush. Pour it into an

4o

,DICTIONARY OF E VER Y—DA Y WANTS.

 

earthen or china vessel; let it cool; lay a cover
on, and put it in a cool place. When needed for
use, take out a portion and soften it with warm
water. Paste thus made will last 12 months.
It is better than gum, as it does not gloss the
paper, and can be written upon.—2. Prepare in
the ordinary way a good flour or starch paste.
It can be preserved by adding to it a small quan-
tity of brown sugar, then corrosive sublimate in
fine powder in the proportion of about a tea-
spoonful to the pint of paste; add also a tea-
5 oonful of oil of lavender, or rosemary, or
c oves, or any of the essential oils, and a few
drops of carbolic acid, and stir well with a
wooden spatula. This paste will keep for any
length of time perfectl pure. The rational: is
this: The corrosive su limate insures it against
fermentation, and the essential oil and carbolic
acid against mold. Corrosive sublimate in the
above is a poisonous agent, but it is not expected
that the paste is to be eaten because of its con-
taining sugar; and in the use of it as paste it is
not in the least dangerous, as we all handle with
impunity many things more poisonous than this.

PAST E, for Scrap Ericka—Take the best
of laundry starch in a clean dish, wet it with
sufficient cold, soft water, to permit it being stir-
red smoothly. Pour on boiling water, slowly
stirring until the starch is clear and jelly-like.
Ready for use as soon as cool. For many uses
preferable to a mucilage of gum Arabic.

PASTE, leat Will Adhere to Any Suén‘ante.
——Sugar-of—lead, 720 grs., and alum, 720 grs.;
both are dissolved in water. Take 2% oz. of
gum arabic and dissolve in 2 quarts of warm
water. Mix in a dish 1 lb. of wheat flour with
the gum water cold, till in pasty consistence.
Put the dish on the fire, pour into it the mixture
of alum and sugar-of-lead. Shake well, and
take it 01? the fire when it shows signs of ebul-
lition. Let the whole cool, and the paste is
made. If the paste is too thick, add to it some
gum water, till in proper consistence.

P U'I'I‘Y.

GLAZIER’S PUTTX—Whiting, 70 lbs. ;
boiled oil, 30 lbs. ; water, 2 gals. Mix. If too
thin, add more whiting; if too thick add more oil.

PUTTY, Io Softm.—To remove old putty
from broken windows, dip a small brush in nitro-
muriatic acid or caustic soda, (concentrated lye,)
and with it anoint or paint over the dry putty
that adheres to thebroken glass and frames of
your wirdows ; after an hour’s interval, the
putty will have become so soft as to be easily re-
movable.

 

SEALING—WAX.

SEALING—WAX—(Red.) I. Shellac (very
pale) 4 oz.; cautiously melt in a bright co per
pan over a clear charcoal fire, and when used
add Venice turpentine, 1% oz. ; mix, and further
add vermilion, 3 oz. ; remove the pan from the
fire, cool a’little, weigh it into pieces, and roll
them into circular sticks on a warm marble slab
by means of a polished wooden block; or it may
be poured into moulds while in a state of fusion.
Some persons polish the sticks with a rag till
quite cold.-—-2. (Fine.) Shellac, 3 lbs.; Venice
turpentine, 19 02.; finest cinnabar, 21b5.; mix
as before—3. (Fine.) As the last, but use just
half as much vermilion.—4. Resin, 41bs.; shel-
lac, 2 lbs. ; Venice turpentine and red lead, of
each 1% lbs. Common.

(Black) I. Shellac, 60 parts ; very fine ivory-
black, reduced to an impalpable powder, 30
parts; Venice turpentine, 20 parts—2. (Fine.)
As the last, but using lamp-black for ivory-
black.—3. (Fine.) Rosin, 6 lbs.; shellac and
Venice turpentine, of each 2 lbs.; lamp-black
q. s. Inferior. ,

(Black Bottle-VVax.) I . Black resin 6% lbs. ;
beeswax, % lb. ; finely-powdered ivory-black, 1
lb. ; melt together.—2.(Red.) As the last, but
substitute Venetian or red lead for ivory-black.

(French) Shellac, (pale,) 3 lbs.; Venice
turpentine, 1% 1b.; vermillion, 394/ lbs.; di-
vide into sticks 12, 24, 36 or 40 to the lb. Fine.

(Gold) By stirring gold-colored mica span-
gles or talc, or aurum musivum into the melted
resins when they begin to cool. Fine.

(Marbled) By mixing 2 or 3 different col-
ored kinds just as they begin to grow solid.

(Soft. ). 1. (Red) Beeswax, 8 parts; olive
oil, 5 parts; melt, and add Venice turpentine x5
parts; red lead to colon—2. (Green.) As the
last, but substitute powdered verdigris for red
lead. Both are used for sealing certain official
documents kept in tin boxes; also as a cement.

All the above forms for “ fine” wax produce
“ superfine,” by employing the best qualities of
the ingredients ; and “ extrasuperfine,” or
“scented,” by adding I 02. of balsam of Peru or
liquid storax to the ingredients when consider-
ably cooled. The variegated an'd fancy-colored
kinds are commonly scented with a little essence
of musk, or ambergris, or any of the more fra-
grant essential oils. The addition of _a little
camphor or spirit of wine, makes sealmg-wax
burn easier. Sealing-wax adulterated with rosm,
or which contains too much turpentine, runs into
thin drops at the flame of a candle.

COOKING AND BAKING.

COOKING SUITABLE FOR

ANCHOVY BUTTER.-—Scrape the skin
from a dozen fine anchovies, take the flesh from
the bones, pound it smooth in a mortar; rub
through a hair-sieve, put the anchovies into the
mortar with % of a pound of fresh butter, a

INVALIDS IS MARKED "

small quantity of cayenne, and a saltspoonful of

grated nutmeg and mace ; heat together until
thoroughly blended. .
the butter in small shapes, and turn it out.
preservation, press the butter into jars; keep cool.

If to serve cold, mould
For

COOKING AIVD BAKING.

APPLE BREAD.—A very light, pleasant
bread is made in France by a mixture or apples
and flour, in the proportion of 1 of the former
to 2 of the latter. The usual quantity of yeast
is employed as in making common bread, and is
beaten with flour and warm pulp of the apples
after they have boiled, and the dough is then
considered as set; it is then put in a proper ves-
sel, and allowed to rise for or 12 hours, and
then baked in long loaves. Very little water is
requisite—none, generally, if the apples are very
fresh.

APPLE SA UCE.—Pare and core 3 good-
sized baking apples, and put them into a well-
tinned pint saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of
cold water; cover the saucepan close,_and set it
on a trivet over a slow fire a couple of hours be-
fore dinner; some apples will take a long time
stewing—others will be ready in 15 minutes ;
when the apples are done enough, pour oil” the
water“, let them stand a few minutes to get dry;
then beat them up with a fork', with a bit of but-
ter about as big as a nutmeg, and a teaspoonful
of powdered sugar. Some add lemon-peel,
grated or minced fine, or boil a bit with the ap-
ples. Some are fond of apple sauce with cold

rk.

PoAPPLE PUDDINGS.—I 1b. of flour, 6 oz.
of very finely-minced beef suet; roll thin, and
fill with 1% lbs. of boiling apples; add grated
rind and strained juice of a small lemon; tie it
in a cloth; boil I hour and 20 minutes, or long-
er, in the water. A small slice of fresh butter
stirred into it when it is sweetened will be an ac-
ceptable addition; grated nutmeg, or cinnamon
in fine powder, may be substituted for lemon-
rind. For a richer pudding use % a lb. of but-
ter for the crust, and add to the apples a spoon-
ful or two of orange or quince marmalade—2.
Pare 4 or 5 large, tart apples, and grate them
fine; then make the following custard, into
which stir the rated apple: Flour, 4 tablespoon-
fuls; I pint. 0 milk, 5 eggs, and a little grated
orange-peel. After 'you have these ingredients
.well mixed, pour them into your pudding-dish,
and bake about 1% hours.

APPLE PUDDING, Baked—4 large ap-
ples boiled, some grated bread, 4 oz. of butter,
4 yelks and 2 whites of eggs well beaten, sugar
to taste; edge a dish with puff-paste, and bake
% an hour.

APPLE CAKE.—Take 2 cups of dried ap-
ples, stew just enough to cut easily, chop about
as fine as raisins, and simmer in 2 cups of mo-
lasses 3 hours; 1 cup of sugar, I cup of sour
milk, 1 of butter, 2 eggs, 5 cups of flour, 2 tea-
spoonfuls of soda, some salt, cloves and cinna-
mon. Mix with molasses warm. Put apples
and molasses in before the flour. Bake in large
cake dishes; it makes I large one, or 2 small

ones.
APPLE CUS T ARD.-——r pint of good stewed
apples, a % of 3. lb. of butter, % a pint of
cream, 3 eggs beaten light, sugar and grated
nutmeg to taste. Mix the ingredients together,
and bake in a puff-paste in a moderate stove.
APPLE CREAM—Boil 12 apples in water
till soft; take of? the peel and ress the pulp
through a hair sieve upon % a b. of pounded
sugar; whip the whites of 2 eggs, add them to
the apples, and beat all together till it becomes
very stiff and looks quite white. Serve it
heaped up on a dish.

 

4:

APPLE SN 0 W'.-—Put 12 good tart apples in
cold water, and set them on a slow fire; when
soft, drain off the water, strip the skins from the
apples, core and lay them in a large glass dish.
Beat the whites of 12 eggs to a stiff froth, put %
a pound of powdered white sugar to the apples ;
beat them and add the eggs. Beat the whole to
a stiff snow, and turn into a dessert-dish.

APPLE SL (JIM—Pare good cooking apples,
put in an earthen dish with sugar, butter, and
water enough for juice. Make a paste as for
biscuit, only thin enough to spread easily with a

spoon. Spread over the apples and bake % of
an hour. Berries and prunes may be used in-

stead of apples, and make an equally palatable
dish. Serve with a nice sauce.

APPLE SOUFFLE.—6 or 8 apples, some
white sugar, yelks and whites of 3 eggs, % of a
pint of cream or new milk, sugar to taste. Peel
and cut the apples; boil them with a little white
sugar, and mash them smooth. Make a custard
with the yelks of 3 well-beaten eggs, a M of a
pint of cream or new milk, and white sugar to
taste. Have the a )ples and custard ready; make
a ring round the dish with the apples, and put
the custard in the middle. Whisk the whites of
the eggs to a stiff froth, and put them over the
custard and apples. Sift sugar over it, and bake
it in a moderate oven.

APPLE F1?! TTERS.—Pare and core some
fine large ippins, and cut them into round
slices. So them in sugar, moistened with wa-
ter, and nutmeg for 2 or 3 hours. Make a bat-
ter of 4 eggs, a tablespoonful of rose-water, and
one of milk; thicken with enough flour, stirred
in by degrees, to make a batter; mix it 2 or 3
hours before it is wanted, that it may be light.
Heat some butter in a frying-pan; dip each slice
of apple separately in the batter, and fry them
brown; sift pounded sugar and grate nutmeg
over them.

APPLE TR]FLE.——Stew 6 large apples;
sift them, and add sugar, butter and nutmeg as
for pies. Put in a deep dish. Take a pint of
cream and I of- milk and boil them. When
boiling, add the beaten yelks of 6 eggs, and
sugar. Stir until thick. When cold, pour it
over the apple, bake, and when nearly done
spread the w ites of the eggs, beaten with lemon
and sugar, on the top, and let it brown deli-
cately.

APPLES, Floating Islam! oft—Bake or
scald 8 or 9 large apples ; when cold, pare them
and pulp them through a sieve. Beat up this
pulp with sugar, and add to it the whites of 4
or 5 eggs previously beaten u with a small
quantity of rose-water. Mix llllS into the pulp
a little at a time, and beat it until quite light.
Heap it up on a dish, with a rich custard or jelly
round it.

ARTICIIOKES.—Soak them in cold water,
and wash them well; put them into plenty of
boiling water, with a handful of salt, and let
them boil gently for 1% or 2 hours; trim them
and drain on a sieve; send up melted butter
with them, which some put into small cups, 1
for each guest.

ART/CHOKES, ‘Boiled.—Twist off the
stalks and Wash them in cold water. When the
water boils put them in with the tops down.
They will be done in 1% hours. Serve with
melted butter.

ARROWROOTBLANC-MANGE.—A tea-

42

DI C T1 DNA]? Y 01" E VEIE Y-DA Y IVA 1V TS.

 

,cu ful of arrowroot to a pint of milk; boil the
mi k with [2 sweet and 6 bitter almonds blanched
and beaten ; sweeten with loaf sugar, and strain
it; break the arrowroot with a little of the milk
as smooth as possible; pour the boiling milk
upon it by degrees, stirring the while; put it
back into the pan, and boil a few minutes, still
stirring; dip the shape in cold water before you
put it in, and turn it out when cold.

ASPAIt’AGUS.—Scrape the stalks till they
are clean; throw them into a pan of cold water ;
tie them up in bundles of about 25 each; cut off
the stalks at the bottom all of a length, leaving
enough to serve as a handle for the green part;
put them into a stew-pan of boiling water, with
a handful of salt in it. Let it boil, and skim it.
When they are tender at the stalk, which will be
in from 20 to 30 minutes, they are done enough.
Watch the exact time of their becoming tender ;
take them up that instant. If too much boiled
they lose both color and taste. While the as-

aragus is boiling, toast 2. round of a quartern
oaf, about % an inch thick; brown it delicately
on both sides; dip it lightly in the liquor the as-
paragus was boiled in, and lay it in the middle
of a dish, and lay the asparagus round the dish,
the to s inwards.

A PARA GUS SO UP.—2 quarts of good
beef or veal steak, 4 onions, 2 or 3 turnips,
some sweet herbs, and the white parts of 100

oung asparagus; if old, half that quantity; and
et them simmer till fit to be rubbed through a
tammy; strain and season it; have ready the
boiled green tops of the asparagus, and add them
to the sou .

BAKING PO lVDER.—The following are
the baking powders in general use: I. Tartaric
acid, 4% oz. ; arrowroot or rice-flour, 5 oz. ;
mix.—2. Alum, 5 oz.; bicarbonate of soda, 2%
02.; bicarbonate of ammonia, % oz.; arrow-
root, 4 oz.

BEANS, Ta Cooks—The usual way people
cook beans is to parboil them; put them in a
kettle or pan, set them in the oven to bake, with
apiece 0 fat pork in them. The grease oozes
out into the beans, causing a most unwholesome
and indigestible mass, destroying all the good
flavor of the beans. Now the method for cooks
ing them (which all who have tried it pronounce
excellent) is as follows: Parboil as usual, putting
in salt to suit the taste. Then put them in a
pan and set in the oven to bake, putting in a
piece of good, sweet butter—the size of a butter-
nut will answer. Bake until tender and nicely
browned over on top. Beans are very nutri-
tious, and cooked in this way are palatable, di-
gestible, and can be eaten by any one. If you
want the pork, cook it in a dish by itself.

BEANS, Grzen.—( French style.) Choose
small, young beans, and strip off the ends and
stalks, throwing them, as prepared, into a dish
full of cold spring water, and, when all are fin-
ished, wash and drain them well. Boil them in
salted boiling water, in a large saucepan, and
drain them, after which put them into an enam-
eled stewpan, and shake them over the fire until
the are quite hot and dry; then add about 3 oz.
of resh butter, and a tablespoonful. of veal and
chicken broth; the butter must be broken up
into small lumps. Season with white pepper,
salt, and the juice of half a lemon strained.
Stir them well over a hot fire for 5 minutes, and
serve them in a vegetable dish very hot.

.

 

BEEF, T o yzldgt if it: Qualific—The grain
of ox beef, when good, is loose, the meat red,
and the fat inclining to yellow. Cow beef, on
the contrary, has a closer grain, a whiter fat, but
meat scarcely as red as that of ox beef. Infe-
rior beef, which is meat obtained from ill-fed an-
imals, or from those which had become too old
for food, may be known by a hard, skinny fat,
a dark, red lean, and, in old animals, a line of
horny texture running through the meat of the
ribs. When meat pressed by the finger rises
up quickly, it may be considered as that of an
animal which was in its prime; when the dent
made by pressure returns slowly, or remains
visible, the animal had probably passed its
prime, and the meat consequently must be of
inferior quality.

BEEF, To Roast—The noble sirloin of about
15 lbs., (if much thicker the outside will be done
too much before the inside is enou h,) will re-
quire to be before the fire about 3‘; or 4 hours.
Take care to spit it evenly, that it may not be
heavier on one side than the other; put a little
clean dripping into the dripping-pan ; (tie a
sheet of paper over it to preserve the fat ;) baste
it well as soon as it is put down, and every %
of an hour all the time it is roasting, till the
last % hour; then take off the paper and make
some gravy for it; stir the fire and make it
clear; to brown and froth it, sprinkle a little
salt over it, baste it with butter, and dredge it
with flour; let it go afew minutes longer, till
the froth rises ; take it up, put it on the dish, etc.

BEEF, Rump of; To Bake.——-Cut out the
bone and break it, and beat the flesh with a rol-
ling pin; season with pepper, salt, and cloves,
and lard the meat across. Put the meat into an
earthen pan, with the broken bones, some but-
ter, bay leaves, whole butter, I or 2 shalots, and
sweet herbs; cover it close, and place it in the
oven; it will require 6 hours to bake. Skim off
the fat, dish the meat, and serve with dried sip-
pets and its own liquor.

BEEF, Legof, To Bakes—Cut the meat ofl‘
and break the bones. Put them all into an
earthen pan with 2 onions and a bundle of sweet
herbs, and season with whole pepper, cloves,
and blades of mace. Cover. it With water, tie
the top close with brown paper, and put it in ‘
the oven. \Vhen done, take out the pieces of
meat, lay them in a dish, and return them to the
oven to keep hot. Skim off the fat and strain
the liquor; pick out the bones and sinews, and
put them in a saucepan with a little of the gravy,
and butter rolled in flour. When hot pour it
into the dish with the meat.

BEEF, Fillet of.-—Take the sirloin or second
cut of the ribs; take out the bones with a sharp
knife, and skewer it round in good shape; lay
the bones in a large saucepan, with 2 onions, I
carrot, and 12 cloves; add the meat, Just cov-
ered with water. Let it cook slowly 2 hours;
dish the meat; skim all the fat from the gravy,
add some flour mixed with cold water, and-2
spoonfuls of walnut catsup; give all a borl.
Turn part of the gravy over the meat, and serve
the rest in a gravy tureen.

BEEF COLLOPS.—Cut the fillet from the
under part of a rum of beef into thin slices, and
broil until nearly one; ut into a stew-pan
with a little beef stock; a d slices of lemon, 2
tablespoons of catsup, and stew till tender; 1:; a.
pint of oysters is an improvement to this dis . .

COOKING AND BAKING.

BEEF, Fillet 4y; wit/z qux/zraomn—Cut the
fillet into slices, and pour over them some
melted butter, seasoned with pepper and salt;
let them stand for an hour; then put them in a
frying-pan overa quick fire to brown lightly;
take them out, and put in the pan flour enough
to thicken and brown; mix smoothly, and add
some stock.

BEEF, Cunz'ed.—-(Madras style.) Place 2
tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, with 2
small onions cut in thin slices ; fry until brown;
add a tablespoonful and a half of curry powder,
and mix all together. Take 3 pounds of beef;
cut in pieces an inch square; our over them
the milk of a cocoanut, and a Jof the meat of
the nut grated fine and squeezed through muslin
with a little water; this softens the taste of the
curry, and no curry is ever made without it in
India. If there is not liquor enough, add % a
teacu ful of boiling water; let the whole sim-
mer {Br 30 minutes. Serve in a dish with sliced
lemon, and a wall of mashed potatoes or boiled
rice around it.

BEEF EISSOLES.—Mince some cold roast
beef fine, add rather more than % as much
bread-crumbs as meat, 3. little minced lemon-
peel and chopped parsley, with salt, pepper, and
sweet herbs minced, to taste. Make into a
paste with 2 or more eggs, according to the
quantity of meat; roll up into balls, and fry :1
rich brown; thicken a little good brown gravy;
add to it a dessert spoonful of Worcester sauce,
and pour it round the rissoles in a very hot
dish.

BEEF, Stewed wit/z 0m'om.—Cut some ten-
der beef into small pieces, and season with salt
and pepper; slice some onions and add to it,
with water enough in the stew-pan to make a
gravy. Let it stew slowly till the beef is thor-
oughly cooked, then add some pieces of butter
rolled in flour, enough to make a rich gravy.
Cold beef may be cooked before adding them to
the meat. Add more water if it dries too fast,
but let it be boiling when poured in.

BEEF HASH—Take nice slices of cold sir-
loin or ribs of beef; cut off all the outside
brown and gristle; make with these and the
bones a brown gravy as directed; cut a good-
sized carrot and turnip in small pieces ; stew till
tender; lay the slices of meat in a stew-pan
with the carrot and turnip; pour over a pint of
the gravy, thickened with a bit of butter rolled
in flour, 6 pickled mushrooms, and 3 pickled
walnuts cut in halt. Set the stew-pan by the
fire until the meat is thoroughly heated, but do
not let it boil.

BEEF, C ORA/ED, T a Boil.—Wash it thor-
oughly, and put it in a pot that will hold plenty
of water. The water should boil when the beef
is put in, and great care should be taken to skim
it often; % an hour for every lb. of meat is
sufficient time. Corn beef, to be tender and
juicy, should boil very gently and long. If it is
to be eaten cold, take it from the pot when
boiled, and lay it in an earthen dish or an,
with a piece of board upon it, the size 0 the

meat. 'Upon this put a heavy stone or couple
of flat irons. It greatly improves salt meat to
press it.

BEEF, Potted—Salt 3 lbs. of lean beef, with
' alb. of salt and % an oz. of saltpetre. Let
it stand 3 da 5. Divide it into pieces weighing
a pound eacli, and put it in an earthen pan of

 

43

just suflicient size to contain it; pour over it %
a pint of water, cover it close With a late, and
set it in a slow oven for4hours. W en taken
from the oven, pour the gravy into a basin,
shred the meat fine, moisten it with the gravy
poured from the meat, and pound it thoroughl
in a marble mortar, with fresh butter, until it
becomes a fine paste; season it with black pep.
per and allspice, ground cloves, or grated nut-
meg; ut it in pots, press it down as closely as
possib e, put a weight on it, and let it stand all
night; next day, cover it a % of an inch thick
with clarified butter, and tie paper over it.

BEEF CUTLE TS.-—-Cut the inside ofa sir-
loin or rump in slices % an inch thick; trim
them neatly; melt a little butter in a frying-
pan; season the cutlets ; fry them lightly; serve
with tomato sauce.

*BEEF TEA.——Take I lb. of juicy rump
steak, cut into oblong pieces an inch or two
long by about ‘4 of an inch wide, place them in
a saucepan an just cover with cold water; set
it on top of the stove, if there is a good fire,
and with an iron spoon keep pressing out the
juice from the meat, which at the end of 10 min-
utes will be almost perfectly white and tough as
leather. 3 to 5 minutes boiling will finish it;
then draw off the broth and rinse the meat with
alittle boiling water, to get off the nourishing
particles which remain; add salt the last thing
(on no account do this while the meat is cooking)
and pepper to taste if allowed, and in 15 min-
utes you have a bowl of as good beef tea as was
ever made.

BEEF BROTII—VVash a leg or shin of
beef; crack the bone well; (desire the butcher
to do it for you ;) add any trimmings of meat,
game, or poultry, heads, necks, gizzards, feet,
etc. ; cover them with cold water; stir it u well
from the bottom, and the moment it begins to
simmer skim it carefully. Your broth must be
perfectly clear and limpid, for on this depends
the goodness of the soups, sauces and gravies of
which it is the basis. Add some cold water to
make the remaining scum rise, and skim it again.
When the scum has done rising, and the surface
of the broth is quite clear; put in I moderate-
sized carrot, a head of celery, 2 turnips, and 2
onions; it should not have any taste of sweet
herbs, spice or garlic, etc. ; either of these fla-
vors can easily be added after if desired; cover
it close, set it by the side of the fire, and let it
simmer very gently (so as not to waste the
broth) for4 or 5 hours or more, according to
the weight of the meat; strain it through a
sieve into a clean and dry stone pan, and set it
into the coldest place you have, if for after use.

BEEFSTEAK', How to Cook—The frying-
pan being wiped dry, place it upon the stove and
let it become hot. In the meantime mangle the
steak—if it chance to be sirloin, so much the
better—pepper and salt it, then lay it on the
hot, dry pan, which instantly cover as tight as
possible. When the raw flesh touches the
heated pan, of course it seethes and adheres to
it, but in a few seconds it becomes loosened and
juicy. Every 30 seconds turn the steak; but be
careful to keep it as much as possible under
cover. When nearly done lay a small piece of
butter upon it. In 3 minutes from the time the
steak first goes into the pan it is ready for the

table.
BEEFS T EAK AND ONIONS—Cut the

l

44

steaks about % of an inch thick; put a good
lump of dripping or lard into your an, and
when it is hot lay in the steaks; turn t em fre-
quently, so that they may not burn ; let them be
nicely browned all over, and when cooked lay
them in a hot dish before the fire; meantime
have in readiness a plateful of onions, sliced
very thin, and sprinkled with pepper and salt;
put them into the pan, and lay a dish over them
to keep in the steam; turn them about, and let
them be cooked thoroughly. They will require
along time; they should be soft and brown;
when done, pour them over the steaks and serve
11 hot.

PBEEFSTEAK ROLLS.—Cut nice, small,
thin steaks, and fry them slightly; make a stuf-
fing as if for roast veal or turkey; roll up the
steaks, putting the stuffing inside each roll;
skewer or tie them neatly, stew them in a rich,
brown gravy for 20 minutes, and serve.

BREAD, Yeartfizr.—Take 9 medium-sized
potatoes, boil in 2 quarts of water, and mash
them fine. Steep I cup of hops in % a pint of
hot water, and strain off, pressing the hops.
Add together the potato-water, hop-water, the
mashed potatoes, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 2 of
good ground ginger, I cu of sugar, and when

blood-warm add I cup 0 stock yeast, (such as _

here described,) or for first start use brewer’s
yeast; put in a jar and keep in a cool place,
where it will not freeze, and it will keep good
about 2 weeks. Let it stand at least 24 hours
before using.

BREAD, T o [Velma—To make the sponge,
which should be in the evening, take a deep ves-
sel, put in 3 quarts of warm water, I cup of the
above yeast, stir in flour enough to make a stiff
batter, and set in a warm place. In the morn-
ing put in 2 quarts of warm water, salt it (if the
dough inclines to be running, from bad flour,
put in I teaspoonful of powdered alum dissolved
m warm water.) Knead the dough till it is
smooth, and cover it with a cloth in a deep ves-
sel; keep it warm, (not hot,) let it rise, and
then mold into 6 loaves, let it rise again till
light, and then bake.

BREAD,-Frmclz.—Put I pint of milk into 3
quarts of water. In winter let it be scalding
hot, but in summer little more than milk-warm;
put in salt sufficient. Take Ifi pints of good
ale-yeast, free from bitterness, and lay it in I
gal. of water the night before. Pour'ofl' the
yeast into the milk and water, and then break in
rather more than % 1b. of butter. Work it well
till it is dissolved; then beat up 2 eggs in a ba-
sin, and stir them in. Mix about 1% peeks of
flour with the liquor, and, in winter, make the
dough pretty stiff, but more slack in summer;
mix it well, and the less it is worked the better.
Stir the liquor into flour, as for pie-crust, and
after the dough is made cover it with a cloth,
and let it he to rise while the oven is heating.
When the rolls or loaves have lain in aquick
oven about a ’14 of an hour, turn them on the
other side for about a % of an hour longer.
Then take them out and chip them with a knife,
which will make them look spongy, and of a
fine yellow, whereas rasping takes off this fine
'color, and renders their look less inviting.

BREAD, Unfermmted.—Take the iron pans
now in use, and which can be obtained at almost
any hardware store; or, if not obtainable, com-
mon patty tins will do; saturate a clean cloth

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY' WANTS.

with oil or butter, with which rub the iron or
tins, and set them on the stove to heat; then
take sweet skim milk (not more than 24 hours
old) warmed to the temperature of new milk or
warm water, with 2 spoonfuls of cream to I pt.
of water, and stir in fine flour until you have a
batter a very little thicker than for griddle cakes;
or if unbolted flour (which is much better) is
used, until it will heap up slightly on the spoon ;
heat your dishes so that they will siss when the
batter is put in, and have your oven well heated,
until the cakes are puffed up and lightly browned.
Then close the draft and bake slowly for 15 or
20 minutes, and you will have the best bread

made.

BREAD, Gmlzam.——Take I qt. of warm wa-
ter, I teacupful of good yeast, and I tablespoon-
ful of salt. Put into apan, make a stiff batter
with flour, which has been sifted, and keep it
very warm until it is light ; then take flour which
has been half sifted to thicken it; knead it well,
but do not let it get cold; let it rise again.
Then work it down, and put in I teacupful of
sugar and yiece of butter the size of an egg.

Knead it '2 an hour, put it in pans, and let it
rise very light. Bake % of an hour in a mod-

rate oven.

BREAD, 0xygenaz‘ed.—An article of diet
termed oxygenated bread has of late been intro-
duced into England, and found considerable fa-
vor. For its preparation the bread is placed un-
der an air-pump, and the carbonic acid gas and
atmospheric air exhausted, and then oxygen ad-
mitted in sufficient quantity to fill the pores of
the bread. An inconvenience attending its use
is its tendency to become mouldy. This can be
obviated by avoiding the use of yeast, or by
placing a paper saturated with a solution of car:
bonic acid on the top of the box in which the
bread is preserved, this scarcely affecting the
taste of the bread. A single mouthful of oxy—
genated bread is said to remove the want of ap-
petite, and to induce an agreeable sensation in
the epigastrium in dyspeptic attacks. In the
case of gastric disturbances arising from nervous
depression, incomplete assimilation, or scrofulous
affections, it is said that the use of this bread
produces a very sensible improvement in the
course of I or 2 weeks.

BREAD, To Make Wiz‘lzaut Flown—A
Frenchman named Sezille has discovered a method
of making bread from unground wheat, with-
out first grinding and bolting it into flour. The
making of bread by this new system is a three-
fold process—namely, washing the wheat, fer-
mentation, and the final admixture and flavoring.
The grain is put in a vessel, covered with water,
and stirred until the lighter grains and extrane-
ous particles are either dissolved or left floating
on the surface. The mass is then- freed from
the water and put into a cylinder, like a nutmeg-
grater, whose revolutions remove the outer skin
of the grain. This is all that is really necessary
to remove. Next, the wheat thus cleansed is
immersed in twice its own weight of water,
heated to 75°, to which has been added I part
of half-dry yeast, and 5 or 6 oz. of glucose to
200 parts of water. A day’s exposure to this
bath secures the necessary degree of absorption
and fermentation, and the color will also have
been extracted from the exterior surface of the
grain. The water being then removed, the
wheat will be not far from white in color. Next

COOKING AND BAKING.

45

 

the stiffened mass is put through rollers, which
mash it into a glutinous pulp, and mix regularly
through the whole bulk all the remaining par-
ticles of skin or bran. The dough—for such it
now is-is then put into a trough, flavored with
salt which has been dissolved in water, and given
an opportunity to absorb more water if neces-
sary, and then thoroughly kneaded by hand.
Nothing, now, is needed but to treat it just as
flour-dough is treated, and, when sufficiently
light, hand it over to the oven. It is claimed
that by this rocess the eater secures the entire
nutrimeut o the wheat, and that it produces %
more bread than under the present system. It
is probable that the bread thus made will lack
that whiteness which is so much sought after by
modest housewives, but then the result will be
most nutritious. Owing, however, to the time
consumed in preparing the grain for the oven, it
is not likely that this new process will for some
time to come supersede the old-fashioned method
of setting a sponge over-night for the next day’s
bakin .

BREAD, T o Divan/er whetfitr i! 1': Ada]!!-
ratm’ wit/z Alarm—The bread must be soaked
in water, and to the water in which it has been
soaked a little of the solution of muriate of lime
must be added, upon which, if any alum be
present, the liquid will be pervaded with milki-
ness; but if the bread be pure the liquid will
remain limpid. Rationale: Sulphuric acid has a
stronger affinity for lime than for the alumina
and potass, with which it forms alum; it there-
fore quits those bodies to form sulphate of lime
with the lime of the test, which produces the
milkiness. V

BREAD, A Able—(French method.) Put %
of boiled apple pulp to % of wheat flour, and
ferment it with yeast for I2 hours. It is said to
be lightvand palatable.

BREAD, Brown.—(Oneida.) I qt. of Indian
meal, I gt. of rye meal, I teaspoonful of soda, %
acup o molasses, with a slight sprinkling of
salt. A little sour milk improves it. Mix to
the consistenc of pancake batter. Bake from
I hour to 112 hours, according to the heat of
your oven.

BREAD, Carla—Take I pt. of corn meal,
(white is best,) and stir into it I teaspoonful of
dry saleratus and % a teaspoonful of salt; then
add 2 eggs, I pt. of sour milk, and 3 tablespoon-
fuls of sour cream; beat about 5 minutes, and
put it (about % an inch deep) in the pans to
bake. Use pie pansto bake it in. If you have
no cream, use about a tablespoonful of butter,
drippings, or lard.

BREAD, Potato.—Tade 4 or 5 good mealy
potatoes, and after boiling peel and mash well;
add a large spoonful of flour and enough hot
water to make a thin batter; when cool enough
add a small quantity of good yeast and a spoon-
ful of sugar; set to rise in a moderately warm
place, say by the stove or fireplace; it rises very
quiclky. When risen, take 2 large spoonfuls or
it for I pt. and a % of flour, a small spoonful of
lard or butter, a % pt. of milk, and hot water
enough to make into a stiff batter, (over night;)
beat well; next morning work it well into a
smooth dough and make into rolls or loaves;
set in a warm place to rise again, and bake in a
quick oven. Do not forget a teaspoonful of salt
and I of yeast powder sifted in the dry flour
that you work into the batter in the morning; a

 

tin bucket is best, with a tight cover, and a
towel between it and the bucket. If your flour
is good, there is no better recipe than this; no
hops are needed. .

BREAD, RICE.—Take I lb. of rice, and
boil it gently to a thick paste, which, when
mixed with the usual quantity of yeast, will be
sufficient to make 5 pounds of wheat or barley
meal into a dough. When risen, bake it in the
usual wa .

BREAD, RYE.—Scald I cup of flour with I
cup of boiling water, % a teaspoonful of salt, 4
tablespoonfuls of molasses, a large cup of yeast,
3 cups of rye, 6 cups of flour, 3 cups of warm
water; stir well with a spoon, set it to rise 12
hours.

BREAD, SA G0.—This light and nutritious
article for invalids is made in the following man-
ner: 2 lbs. of sago to be well soaked in water
or milk for several hours; mix it with as much.
flour; add saleratus and good yeast, (a little In-
dian meal, if liked ;) when well raised give it a
handsome bake. It is delicious, healthy and.
cheap.

BREAD, WILLOW—The leaves of our
common or basket willow, (Salz’x Nzlgrm, Mar-
shall,) treated the same as is usual for hops,
make an excellent yeast or leaven for light
bread. The discovery was made this summer,
and after thorough trial I was convinced that
there is nothing equal to it, as it rises much
quicker than hops—in half the time—imparts
none of that hop flavor so disagreeable to some,
and, in fact, makes better bread every way. The
thing is well worthy the attention of every good
housewife; and lest some should hesitate in con-
sequence of not knowing the medical properties
of the willow in question, I will add that it is a
healthful tonic from which no harm can possibly
arise.

BREAD, Ta A’zfii’p flioi:l.-Place in the
bread pan a board pierced with holes, and so
supported as to be a couple of inches from the
bottom of the pan; let there be an inch depth of
water in the pan; put the bread on the board,
and cover the pan with the lid. The inclosed
air will then prevent the bread from becoming
too dry.

BREAD, To Serve at Tabla—First, the
bread—plate should be of wood, perfectly round,
and with a flat surface. They cost at the shops
from 75 cts. to $6, or more. The high-priced
ones are beautifully carved. Next a bread-knife,
which has a wooden handle to match the plate.
The blade should be thin and long, and the edge
kept well sharpened. Bread dulls a knife very
much. '

Place on the table the bread-plate with a loaf
of bread on it—2 loaves are better, I of white
bread, the other of brown—and the knife.
When it is time to serve the bread, the one
nearest the bread-plate asks each one what kind
is preferred, and if thick or thin slices. Where
the table is large, a small plate is used to pass it
on. In this way every one at the table has the
bread cut to his or her liking. The bread is cut
only as wanted, and no more cut than is used.
The outside piece of either bread or meat must
not be served, unless some one manifests a pref~
erence for it. Not much strength is required to
cut meat and bread. The muscles of the wrist
and hand should do the work, andgnot those of
the arm, elbow, or shoulder.

46

BREAD PUDDING—I pt. of ated bread
crumbs, I qt. of milk, yelks of eggs well
beaten, I grated lemon, and sugar to taste.
Bake. When cold spread a layer of jelly over
the top, then make an icing of the whites of the
eggs and white sugar, and spread smoothly
over the jelly. To be eaten cold without sauce.

BROSE, A t/zol.-—This is a beverage peculiar
to the Highlands of Scotland. Honey is dis-
solved in whisky to the consistence of cream;
the drink is then taken with a teaspoon. A
quantity sufficient to fill a wine-glass, taken at
night, will be found of benefit in colds and ca-
tarrhs. In preparing Athol Brose oatmeal is
occasionally added.

BROSE, Scotch—Put a few handfuls of oat-
meal into a wooden dish; then pour in a little
boiling water, and mix thoroughly. Add a lit-
tle salt. This dish is frequently used as a sub-
stitute for porridge, when it is inconvenient to
cook the latter. Fresh milk added is a great
improvement.

BEETS, Baz'lezl.—Beets must not be cut be-
fore boiling, as the juice will escape and the
sweetness be destroyed. Select smalLsized,
smooth roots, wash them nicely, and boil in
clear water until tender. When sufficiently
cooked, skim them into a pan of cold water, and
slip off the skin. Cut them in thin slices, and,
while hot, season with butter, salt, pepper and
vinegar, and serve. If preferred cold, slice
lengthwise and lay in strong, cold vinegar.

BISCUITS, Winn—Take 2 lbs. of flour, 2
lbs. of butter, and 4 oz. of sifted loaf sugar.
Rub the sugar and butter into the flour, and
make it into a stiff paste with milk; pound it in
a mortar, roll it out thin, and cut into sizes or
shapes to fancy. Lay them on buttered paper in
a warm oven, on iron plates, having first brushed
them over with a little milk. \Nhen done, you
can give them a gloss by brushing them over
with a brush dipped in egg. A few caraway
seeds may be added, if thought proper.

BISCUITS, Englis/L Stall—I lb. of flour, %
lb. of sugar, )1 lb. of butter, % oz. of caraway
seeds, 3 eggs. Roll out, cut round, and bake
in a moderate oven.

BROTII 0F FRAGJVENTS.—V\'hen you
dress a large dinner, you may make good broth,
or portable soup, at a very small cost, by taking
care of all the trimmings and parings of the
meat, game and poultry you are going to use;
wash them well and put them in a stew-pan,
with as much cold water as will cover them ; set
your stew-pan on a hot fire; when it boils, take
off all the scum, and set it on again to simmer
gently ; put in 2 carrots, 2 turnips. a large onion,
2 blades of pounded mace, and I head of celery ;
some mushroom parings will be an addition.
Let it continue to simmer gently for 4 or 5 hours,
and then strain it through a sieve into a clean
basin. This saves much expense in buying

av meat. .

BROCOL)’; To Boil—Strip off the leaves
till you come to the top ones; peel ofi all the
outside skin from the stalks and small branches,
and throw them into water. Boil in accordance
with the general directions. \Vhen the stalks
are tender it is done. Serve in the same man-
ner as asparagus. .

BUNS.-—% a cup of butter, Z a cup of
yeast, % a cup of sugar, I cup of milk, and
flour enough to make a batter like griddle-cakes.

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

Let this rise till light, then add % of a cup of
sugar, I cup of currants or stoned raisins, cin-
namon or nutmeg to taste, a little more flour;
let it rise again, put in % of a teaspoonful of
soda, cut in cakes, let them rise a third time,
and then bake.

BUNS, Bath—A % of a lb. of flour,
yelks and 3 whites of eggs, with 4 spoonfuls 01
solid, fresh yeast. Beat in a bowl, and set be~
fore the fire to rise; then rub into 1 lb. of flour
IO 02. of butter; put in % ofa lb. of sugar and
caraway comfits; when the eggs and yeast are
pretty light, mix by degrees all together, throw
acloth over it, and set before the fire to rise.
Make the buns, and when on the tins brush over
with the yelk of egg and milk; strew them with
caraway comfits ; bake in a quick oven.

BUTTER, To Clarz'y.—Take butter, melt it
in a warm bath, then et it settle, pour off the
clear, and cool as quickly as possible. Butter
prepared in this way will keep a long time good.

B U T T EB, Randi—Rancid butter, if boiled
in water with a portion of charcoal, (say a tenth
part,) will be entirely divested of its rancidity,
and may be used for cooking purposes, although
its fine flavor will not be restored for the table.
V CABBAGE, To Sinu.——Parboil in milk and
water, and drain it; then shred it, put it into a
stew-pan, with a small piece of butter, a small
teacupful of cream, and seasoning, and stew till
tender.

CABBAGE SALAD.—This is a wholesome
dish, as raw cabbage is much sooner digested
than when cooked; a dressing of vinegar or
sweet cream; shred it finely as for slaw.

CABBAGE (Co/d Slaw.)—-Take fresh cab-
bage—white is preferable—wash, drain it, and
cut off the stalks. Shave the head into very
fine shreds with a cabbage cutter or sharp knife.
Place it in a deep china or earthen dish, and pre-
pare for it the following dressing: To % a pt. of
cider vinegar add a % of a lb. of butter, cut in
5 or 6 bits and rolled in flour; add a small salt-
spoon of salt. Stir well together, and boil in a
saucepan. Have ready the yelks of 4 eggs,
well beaten. When the mixture comes to a boil,
remove it from the fire, and stir in the eggs.
Pour this boiling hot over the cabbage, stir it
thoroughly through with a spoon, and set it in
ice or snow, or some cool place, to get thor-
oughly cold before being served at the table.

CAA’ES, ALAIOA’D.—I. Take some sweet
almonds, flour, and powdered sugar, of each %
1b., 7 eggs, and the outside yellow peel of 4.
lemons shredded small. Pound the almonds,
previously blanched, until they are very smooth,
adding gradually the sugar and lemon-peel; then
take them out, add the eggs, and beat the whole
until it is as white as sponge-paste; next add the
flour, work well, put it into well-buttered pans,
and bake in a slack oven, with 8 or 10 thick-
nesses of paper under them and I over them.

CAKE, APPLE SHORT—Pare and slice
tart apples enough to fill 2 round pie plates ; then
make a crust of I teacupful of cream, salt and.
soda; roll an upper crust, and put on and bake;
when done turn bottom upwards; put on sugar
enough to taste; then turn again, and so on.
To be eaten warm.

CAKES, BANBURK—VVork 1 lb. of but-.
ter into the same weight of dough, made for
white bread, as in making puff paste; then roll
it out very thin, and cut it into oval pieces, or as

COOKING AND BAKING.

47

 

the cakes are wanted. Mix some good moist
sugar with an equal weight of currants, and wet
them with water; then put a little upon each
piece of paste; close them up, and place them
on a tin with the closed side downwards and
bake them. Flavor some powdered sugar with
candied peel, grated, or essence of lemon, and
sift a little over the cakes as soon as they come
out of the oven. '

CAKES, BA TIL—Mix well together % a lb.
of butter, I lb. of flour, 5 eggs, and a cupful of
yeast. Set the whole before the fire to rise,
which effected, add 4 oz. of finely-powdered
sugar and I oz. of caraways ; roll the paste out
into little cakes. Bake them on tins.

CAKE, BREAKFASTu—I cup of sour
cream, I teaspoonful of soda, I egg, I lump of
butter the size of a hen’s egg, a small teacupful
of sugar, I cup of rye flour, and I cup of In-
dian meal; make and bake as stirred cake.

CAKES, CINNAflIOM—I cup of sugar;
% of acup of molasses; I cup of butter; Iyz’
tablespoonfuls of ground cinnamon ; 2 level
spoonsfuls of soda, dissolved in 6 large table-
spoonfuls of warm water; stir well, and add
flour enough to allow to roll quite thin ; cut out
with a biscuit-cutter, and bake in a quick oven.

CAKE, COR1V.—I. I pt. of buttermilk, I
pt. of corn meal, 2 beaten eggs, I teaspoonful
of soda; beat well together and bake in shallow
tin pans. Increase quantities for more than 4
or 5 persons—2. A pt. of buttermilk or sour
milk, a pt. of corn meal, I egg, a teaspoonful of
soda, I of salt, 2 of sugar or molasses. Dis-
solve the soda in a little warm water, and add it
the last thing. Bake % an hour in a quick oven.

GAKE, BREAD.—I‘z cups of dough, I
cup of sugar, % a cup of butter, 2 eggs, '4, tea-
spoonful of soda. Raisins and spice to suit the
taste. Mix with the hands until the dough
seems thoroughly worked in, adding a little more
flour if the dough is thin. Let ‘it rise % an
hour. It rises slowly and but little before going
into the oven.

CAIr'ES, GRIDDLE (W/zeatmml.)—Make
a porridge with about 3 heaping spoonfuls of
oatmeal, hominy, rice, or very coarse corn meal,
in 2. int of water. Boil 20 or 30 minutes, or if
you ave either of these articles already cooked,
it can be made much quicker. Add I pint of
cold water and wheat meal, sifting it slowly,
enough to make a batter a little thicker than for
raised griddle cakes. Bake on a slightly oiled
or a soapstone griddle, spreading out with the
spoon as you put them on. Bake them brown,
and put them on each other as fast as cooked.
Keep them close and warm, and let them stand
Io or 15 minutes before serving. , If soft and
ShiiCky after standing, you have .made them too
t n.

CAKES, GINGER—Make a paste with
sugar, I lb. ; powdered ginger, 4 02.; flour, 2
lbs.; water, I pt. ; butter, yr lb. ; and I cup of
candied orange peel, grated; form them into
Cfikes, and prick them with a fork before baking
t em.

CAK’E, CIIOCOLATE PASTE.—-2 cups
of sugar, I cup of butter, 3 eggs, 3 cups of flour,
% of a cup of milk, X a teaspobnful of soda, I
teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Part5: Choco-
late, 2 02., I cup of sugar, % of a cup of sweet
milk; boil half down. This makes I cake of 4
layers with paste between.

 

l

CAKES, ICING FOR.——Beat the white of
eggs to a full froth, and flavor with lemon or
rose; then add gradually as much finely pow-
dered sugar as will make it thick enough, beat-
ing it well all the time. Dust the cake over
with flour, then gently rub it off, lay on the
icing with a flat knife, stick on the ornaments
while it is wet, and place it in the oven for a few
minutes to harden, but not long enough to dis-
color it.

CAKES, 70HNNK—Scald a quart of In-
dian meal with water enough to make a very
thick batter, add 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls of salt, and
mould it into small cakes with the hands. The
hands must be well floured, or the batter will
stick. Fry them in nearly sufficient fat to cover
them. When brown on the under side turn
them; cook the about 20 minutes. When
done, split and bu er them. '

CAKES, LEMON—Flour and sugar, of
each I lb. ; eggs, I dozen; grated peel and juice
of 4 lemons; whisk the eggs to ahigh froth,
and then gradually add the rest. Bake in small
oval tins, well buttered, and place 6 thicknesses
of paper beneath each tin. Thinly ice them.

CAKE, SPONGE.—Take 5 eggs, and % a
lb. of loaf sugar sifted; break the eggs upon the
sugar, and beat all together with a fork for %
an hour. Previously take the weight of 2%
eggs, in their shells, ot flour. After you have

beaten the eggs and sugar the time specified,

grate in the rind of a lemon, (the juice may be
added at pleasure,) stir in the flour, and imme~
diately pour it into a tin lined with buttered pa-
per, and let it be instantly put into rather a cool
oven.

CAKE, SPONGE, CHEAP.—I cup of
white sugar, I egg, butter the size of a walnut;
beat together; then take I cup of sweet milk,
add % teaspoonful of soda, 2 cups of flour, I
teaspoonful of cream of tartar ; flavor with any-
thing you wish ; mix well, and bake in pie pans
20 minutes.

CAKE SANDWICHES—4 eggs, % 3 lb.
of pounded lump sugar, % 21 lb. of fresh butter,
% a lb. of flour. Beat the butter to cream,
dust in the flour, and add the eggs well whisked;
beat with a fork for a % of an hour, butter a tin,
'and pour in half of the mixture. Bake from a
% of an hour to 20 minutes. Remove from the
tin, butter again, and add the other half of the
mixture. Bake as before. When cool, spread
jam thickly over I portion of the cake, place the
other part over it, and cut into whatever shape
you can.

CAKE, WEDDING—4 lbs. of fine flour
well dried, 4 lbs. of fresh butter, 2 lbs. of loaf
sugar, a % of a ll). of mace pounded and sifted
fine, and the same of nutmegs. To every lb.
of flour add 8 eggs; wash 4 lbs. of currants,
and let them be well picked and dried before the
fire; blanch I lb. of sweet almonds, and cut
them lengthwise very thin; a lb. of Citron, I lb.
of candied orange, the same of candied lemon;
% a pint of brandy. When these are made
ready, work the butter with your hand to a nice
cream, then beat in your sugar for a X of an
hour; beat the whites of your eggs to a very
strong froth, and mix tham with your sugar and
butter; beat your yelks % an hour at least, and
mix them with your cake; then put in your
flour, mace and nutmeg; keep beating it well
till your oven is ready; pour in the brandy, and

4s

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

beat the currants and almonds lightly in. Tie 3
sheets of white pa er round the bottom of your
hoop to keep it fiom running out, rub it well
with butter, put in your cake, lay the sweetmeats
in layers, with cake between each layer, and af-
ter it is risen and colored cover it with paper
before your oven is stopped up; it will require
3 hours to bake properly.

CAKE, YEAST-Gobd-sized potatoes, I
dozen; hops, I large handful; yeast, % a pint;
corn meal, a sufficient quantity. Boil the pota-
toes, after peeling, and rub them through a cul-
lender; boil the hops in 2 quarts of water and
strain into the potatoes; then s d sufficient In-
dian meal to make them the consistence of emp-
tyings, and stir in the yeast and let rise; then,
with unscalded meal, thicken so as to roll out
and cut into cakes, drying qui 'ly at first to pre-
vent souring. They keep be er, and soak up
quicker, than if made with flour.

CANDIES, To Clarify Sugarfor.—To ev-
ery lb. of sugar put a large cup of water, and
put it in a brass or copper kettle, over a slow
fire, for % an hour; pour into it a small quan-
tity of isinglass and gum Arabic dissolved to-
gether. This will cause all impurities to rise to
the surface; skim it as it rises. Flavor accord-
ing to taste.

All kinds of sugar for candy are boiled as
above directed. \Vhen boiling loaf sugar, add
a tablespoonful of rum or vinegar, to prevent its
becoming too brittle whilst making.

Loaf sugar when boiled, by pulling and mak-
ing into small rolls, and twisting a little, will
make what is called rock or snow. By pulling
loaf sugar after it is boiled, you can make it as
white as snow.

CAzVDY, CIIOCOLA TE CREAM—Choc-
olate, scraped fine, % oz.; thick cream, 1' pint;
best sugar, 3 oz. ; heat it nearly to boiling, then
remove it from the fire, and mill it well. When
cold add the whites of 4 or 5 eggs ; whisk rap-
idly and take up the froth on a sieve; serve the
cream in glasses, and pile up the froth on top of
them.

CAND Y, GINGER—Boil a pint of clarified
sugar until, upon taking out a drop of it on a
iece of stick, it will become brittle when cold.

ix and stir up with it, for a common article,
about a teaspoonful of ground ginger; if for a
superior article, instead of the ground ginger,
add the white of an egg, beaten up previously
with fine sifted loaf sugar, and 20 drops of the
strong essence of 'nger.

CAND Y, GINGER LOZENGE.—Dissolve
in )4 of a pint of hot water, I oz. of gum Ara-
bic; when cold, stir it up with 1% lbs. of loaf
sugar, and a spoonful of powdered ginger, or 12
drops of essence of ginger. Rolland beat the
whole up into a paste; make it into a flat cake,
and punch out the lozenges with a round stamp.
Dry them near the fire or in an oven.

CANDY, EVERTOIV TAFEE.—To make
this favorite and wholesome candy, take 1% lbs.
of moist sugar, 3 oz. of butter, a te acup of wa-
ter, and I lemon. Boil the sugar, butter, water
and half the rind of the lemon tggether, and
when done—which will be known by dropping
into cold water, when it should be quite crisp;
let it stand aside till the boiling has ceased, and
then stir in the juice of the lemon. Butter a
dish, and pour. it in about a X of an inch in

thickness. The fire must be quick, and the taf—
fee stirred all the time.

CAADY, FRUIT—Take I lb. of the best
loaf sugar ; dip each lump into a bowl of water,
and put the sugar into your preserving kettle.
Boil it down and skim it until perfectly clear, and
in a candying state. When sufficiently boiled,
have ready the fruits you wish to preserve.
Large white grapes, oranges separated into very
small pieces, or preserved fruits, taken out of
their syrup and dried, are very nice. Dip the
fruits into the prepared sugar while it is hot;
put them in a cold place, and they will soon be-
come hard.

CAADY, FIG.—Take I lb. of sugar and I
pint of water, and set over a slow fire. When
done, add a few drops of vinegar and a lump of
bliéter’ and put into pans in which split figs are
at .

CANDY, LEMON—Take 3 lbs. of coarse,
brown sugar; add to it 3 teacu fuls of water,
and set it over a slow fire for Jan hour; put
to it a little gum Arabic, dissolved in hot water;
this is to clear it. Continue to take ofl” the scum
as long as any rises. When perfectly clear, try
it by dipping a pipe-stem first into it and then
into cold water, or by taking a spoonful of it into
a'saucer; if it is done it will snap like glass.
Flavor with the essence of lemon, and cut it into
sticks. .

CANDY, IVOLASSES—I. 2 cups of mo-
lasses, I of sugar, I tablespoonful of vinegar, 3
piece of butter the size of walnut. Boil con-
stantly for 20 minutes, stirring all the time;
when coo, enough to pull, do it quickly, as it
will come white rapidly—2. Take a clean tin or
porcelain kettle of large size, so that there will
be no danger of boiling over; put in a sufficient

uantity of good molasses, place it over a good

re, and boil briskly until it will be brittle when
cooled—which may be known by dipping a little
of it into a dish of cold water; then pour into
well buttered pans not over an inch thick. Let
it cool until it can be handled, then pull smartly
until white. Draw out on a clean table into
sticks.

CAND Y, Scott/z Buffet—Take I lb. of sugar,
and I pint of water; dissolve and boil. When
done, add I tablespoonful of butter, and enough
lemon juice and oil of lemon to flavor.

CAIVDY, Common Twist—Boil 3 lbs. of
common sugar and I pint of water over a slow
fire for % an hour without skimming. \Vhen
boiled enough take it off; rub the hands over
with butter; take that which is a little cooled
and pull it, as you would molasses candy, until
it is white; then twist or braid it, and cut it up
in strips.

* CALF’S—FOOT BROTII—Boil 2 feet in
3 quarts of water to % ; strain and set it by for
use. When required, take off the fat, put a
large teacupful of the jelly into the saucepan
with % of a glass of white wine, a little sugar
and nutmeg; heat it up till nearly boiling; then
with a little of it beat up the yelk of an egg, add
a bit of butter, and stir all together without al-
lowing it to boil. A little fresh lemon peel may
be grated into it.

CARRO TS.——Let them be well washed and
brushed, not scraped. An hour is enough for
young spring carrots. Grown carrots must be
cut in half, and will take from I 9; to 2 % hours.
1 When done rub off the peels with a clean,

 

COOKING AND BAKING.

coarse cloth, and slice them in 2 or 4, according
to their size. The best way to try if they are
done enough is to pierce them with a. fork.

CA ULIFLOWER, T o Boil.—Having cut off
the green art, divide it into 4 parts ; put it into
boiling mi k and water, and skim the saucepan
well. When the stalks are tender, .take them
up carefully and put them to drain. Then put a
spoonful of water into a stewpan, with a little
flour, a )4 of a lb. of butter, and pepper and
salt mixed well together. Take half the cauli-
flower and cut it as for pickling; put it into the
stewpan for IO minutes. Place the stewed caul-
iflower in the middle, and the boiled round it,
and pour over it the butter in which the one~half
was stewed.

CA ULIFLOW'ER, in [Villa—Choose those
that are close and white, cutoff the green leaves,
and look carefully that there are no caterpillars
about the stalk ; soak an hour in cold water
with a handful of salt in it; then boil them in
milk and water, and take care to skim the sauce-
pan, that not the least foulness may fall on the
flower. It must be served very white and rather
crim .

CEIARLOTTE DE RUSSE.——Take a little
less than I 07.. of gelatine, and dissolve in I pint
of new milk. Strain into I pint of thick cream
made very sweet, and set this in a cool place or
on the ice. Take the whites of 7 eggs and beat
to a froth; then 'add them to the cream, and
beat light. Flavor with vanilla, and keep on the
ice until wanted. Line the moulds with very
light 5 onge cake, and fill with the above when
wanted).

CHICA’EZV, T o Fricasea—Boil a chicken;
joint it; lay it in a saucepan with a iece of but-
ter the size of an egg, a tablespoon ul of flour,
a little mace or nutmeg, white pepper, and salt.
Add a pint of cream, and let it boil up once.
Serve hot on toast.

CHICKEZV, BONELESS.—Fricassee your
chicken, taking care to brown the skin nicely;
season to taste. When done set by to cool ;
then remove all the bones; put back into the
dish in which it was cooked. Take a chopping
knife and chop finely, leaving in all the oil of the
fowl; if not enough of that, add a piece of but-
ter. Then pack closelyin a dish, as you wish it
to go to the table, and when your friends come
to taste it, their approbation will more than re~
pay you for the little extra trouble it has taken to
pre are it.

CH] C]? ENS, T a Fan—Cut up the chickens
and lay them in cold water to extract the blood.
Wipe them dry, season with pepper and salt, and
dredge them with flour. Fry in lard to a rich'
brown; take them out and keep them near the
fire; skim the gravy carefully in which the chick-

, ens have been fried, mix with it % a pint of

' cream; season with mace, pepper, salt and
parsley.

‘ * CIIICA’EN BROTII—Cut a chicken into
small pieces, and remove the skin and any fat
that is visible; boil it for 20 minutes in about a
quart of water, with a blade of mace, a slice of
onion, and 10 corns of white pepper. Simmer
slowly till the flavor is good. Beat a % of an
02. of sweet almonds with a little water; add it
2: the broth, strain it, and when cold take off the

t.
. CHICKEN POT -PIE. -Clean, singe, and
Joint a pair of chickens. Pare and slice 8 white

49

potatoes; wash the slices, and put with the ~
pieces of chicken into a stewpan lined with pie-
crust; season with salt and pepper, dredge with
flour, and cover with water. Cover with paste,
making a hole in the centre; cover the kettle,
and either hang it over the fire or set it in the
oven. If in the oven, turn occasionally to
brown evenly. 2 hours’ cooking is sufficient.
When done, cut the upper crust into moderate-
sized pieces and place them on a large dish;
with a perforated ladle take up the potato and
chicken, and putit upon the crust; cut the lower
crust and put on the top. Serve the gravy hot
in a gravy tureen.

CHOCOLA TE BLANC—IIIANGE.—A %
of 1b. of sweet German chocolate, % a box of
gelatine, 1 quart of milk, one coffeecupful of
sugar. Put it all in a dish, set in a kettle of
water, and let it boil an hour. When nearly
cold, turn into the mould.

CHOCOLATE CARAMEl.—% a lb. of
chocolate, 3 lbs. of dark brown sugar, % of 2.
lb. of butter, a small teacup of milk; season
with vanilla, or grated lemon or orange-peel.
Boil it very quickly over a hot fire, stirring con-
stantly. When it becomes hard on being drop-
ped in water, take it off the fire, and stir for a
few moments before pouring into buttered dishes.
Before it is quite cool cut into little squares.
Those who like the caramel very hard need not
stir it, as this makes it “ sugary.” The grated
peel should not be put in till the caramel is taken
from the fire. a

CHOCOLATE CREAMS.—Take fresh milk
enough to fill I2 glasses, and boil with it 2 oz.
of grated aiocolate and 6 oz. of white sugar;
then beat the yelks of 6 eggs, to which add
slowly the chocolate milk, turning slowly one
Vway. ' Flavor with vanilla boiled in milk ; when
quite mixed, fill your cups and place in water
and boil for an hour. Serve when cold.

C110 IVDER, l'VEBSTER’S.——Daniel Web-
ster was famous for the excellence of his chow-
der, and the following is his recipe for making
it: 4 tablespoonfuls of onions fried with pork; I
quart of boiled potatoes, well mashed; 1% lbs.
of ship biscuit, broken ; I teaspoonful of thyme;
% bottle of mushroom catsup ;_ I bottle of port
or claret; % a nutmeg, grated; a few cloves,
mace, allspice, and slices of lemon, and some
black pepper; 61bs. of blue or white fish, cut
in slices; 25 oysters. The whole to be put in a.
pot, covered with an inch of water, cooked
slowly and stirred gently.

COCOA.—Boil 2 large spoonfuls of ground
cocoa in a quart of water % of an hour; skim
off the oil, pour in 3 gills of milk, and boil it up
again. It is the best way to make it the day be-
fore it is used, as the oily substance can be more
perfectly removed when the cocoa is cold.

COCOA SHELLS—Put a heaping teacupful
to a quart of boiling water. Boil them a great
while—say 2 or 3 hours. Scald milk as for cof-
fee. If there is not time enough to boil the
shells long enough before breakfast, it is well to
soak them over night and boil them in the same
water in the morning.

COCOAZVUT PIE.—Cut off the brown part
of the cocoanut, grate the white part, mix it with
milk, set it on the fire, and let it boil slowly 8
or 10 minutes. To 1 lb. of the grated cocoanut
allow a quart of milk, 8 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls
of sifted white sugar, a glass of wine, a small

4-

 

9°

DICTIONAR Y OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

cracker pounded fine, 2 spoonfuls of melted but-
ter, and X a nutmeg. The eggs and sugar
should be beaten together to a froth, then the
wine stirred in. Put them into the milk and
cocoanut, which should be first allowed to get
qpite cool; add the cracker and nutmeg, turn
t e whole into deep pie-plates, with a lining and
rim of puff paste.
into plates.

CODE].SHBALLS.-—Pick up as fine as pos-
sible a teacup of nice white codfish. Freshen
all night, or, if wanted for any other meal than
breakfast, from the morning. Scald it once, and
drain off the water. Chop and work it until en-
tirely fine. Put it in a basin with water, a bit
of butter the size of an egg, and 2 eggs. Beat
it thoroughly, and heat it until it thickens with-
out boiling. It should, when all is mixed, be
about 1 quart. Have some potatoes ready pre-
pared and nicely mashed. Work the fish and

tatoes thoroughly together as above, make it
In flat cakes, and brown both sides.

CODFr SH, PICKE -UP.—This is an old-
fashioncd dish and name, but none the less to
be admired on that account, being with most

rsons, when properly prepared, a great favor-
lte. Pick up the fish in small particles, separat-
ing the fibres as near as possible, the finer they
are the better. Fresher. by leaving it in water
I hour. Pour off the water and fill up with
fresh. Bring it to a scald, pour it off, and put
on the fish just water enough to cover it. Add
to a quart of the soaked fish a bit of butter the
size of half an egg, a very little flour, and a dust
of pepper. Beat up 2 eggs, and after taking off
the fish thicken it by stirring in the egg. Some
let it boil after the egg is added, but if this is
done the egg will be curdled.

COFFEE, To Alain: Cami—In order to make
good coffee, a practical cook says that the first
thing necessary is to never allow an ounce of
ground coffee to come into the house. Ifno one
understands the art of roasting coffee, then buy
it ready roasted, and try and find a dealer who
has not soaked all the essential juices from the
coffee before putting it into his oven. If the
roasted berry is about twice as large as when
in its green state, depend upon it you have been
defrauded. Get an earthen pot—you cannot
make good coffee or tea in a tin vessel—and put
the ground coffee in a clean white flannel bag,
and be sure to put enough in, and drop the bag
into the pot. Pour on boiling water and let it
steep; do not boil it. The coffee will steep in
20 minutes. Never break an egg into coffee, and
never fill up with water the second time. Pour
on in the beginning the amount of water needed.
An ordinary teacupful of ground coffee is suffi-
cient for 3 persons. Use Java, Mocha, or Java
and Rio mixed. Follow this recipe, and you
will never complain of poor coffee.

COFFEE, Subrtitutr: fort—Roasted acorn,
the chick pea, beans, rye, and other grains;
nuts, almonds, and Wheaten bread; the dried
and roasted roots of turnip, carrot, and dan-
delion.

CORN STARCHBLANC-MANGE.—Boil
1’ uart of sweet milk; stir into it graduall 5
tab espoonfuls of corn starch, mixed with mi k;
add salt, and only 2 large spoonfuls of loaf
sugar, and stir until thoroughly cooked. When
done, take it from the fire, and when cooled add
lemon and vanilla, and pour it into moulds.

Bake them as soon as turned

 

Serve with jelly or fresh fruit, and whipped
cream flavored like the pudding.

COOKIES—l large cup 0t butter; 2 cups
of sugar; 3 well beaten eggs ; % a cup of sour
cream; I level teaspoonful of soda; cinnamon
or caraway seeds, and flour enough to roll.

COLLOPS, MINCED.—-—A favorite Scotch

dish. Take 2 lbs. of good beefsteak, mince it
quite fine, and free from fat or skin; put into a
deep frying-pan with a good-sized piece of but-
ter. As the butter melts, stir the mince about
with a silver fork, so as to separate the particles
and give the mince a granulated appearance; as
soon as the meat looks white, put in a teacupful
of clear gravy, a little pepper and salt, and either
mushroom catsup or Worcester sauce enough to
flavor it; a minced onion may be used if there
is no objection to its taste. Stir the mince
about till the gravy begins to boil, then serve
with toasted sippets.
‘ COO/{INC UTENSILS, Caution About.—
Cleanliness has been aptly styled the cardinal
virtue of cooks. Food is more healthy as well
as palatable when cooked in a cleanly manner.
Many lives have been lost in consequence of
carelessness in using brass, copper, and glazed
earthen cooking utensils. The two first should
be thoroughly cleansed with salt and hot vine-
gar before cooking in them, and no oily or acid
substance, after being cooked, should be allowed
to cool or remain in any of them.

COOKING, Average Lox: éy.—It is we ll to
know that 100 lb. of beef, loses 6 lb. in boiling
and in baking, 30 lbs. Mutton. by boiling, 21
lbs. and by roasting, 24 lbs; or, in another form
of statement, a leg of mutton costing, raw 25
cents, would cost, boiled and prepared for the
table, 28% cents per lb; boiled fresh beef would,
at 15 cents per 1b., cost 19% cents; a sirloin of
raw beef, at 30 cents, costs, roasted, 42 cents;
while a leg of mutton, at 15 cents, would cost,
roasted, only 22 cents.

CRANBERRY SA UCE.—To stew cranber-
ries, a quart of berries, a pint of brown sugar,
and a pint of water; place all in a porcelain
kettle, cover closely, and allow them to cook 8
minutes after coming to a boil, without stirring;
remove from the fire, and empty into an earthen
dish to cool.

CRACKERS, Wheat Flour.—l qt. of flour,
4 oz. of butter or lard, % a teaspoon of soda,
and the same of salt; sweet milk. Rub the
butter thoroughly into the flour and salt; dis-
solve the soda in the milk, and enough more to
take up the flour, which should be made into a
very stiff dough; the more the dough is pounded
or kneaded the better the crackers; roll out to
the desired thickness—% of an inch—and bake
quickly. .

CREAM ICE.——Have rich, sweet cream,
% a lb. of loaf sugar to each quart of cream or
milk. If you cannot get cream, the best imita—
tion is to boil a soft custard, 6 eggs to each
quart of milk, (eggs well beat.) Or another is
made as follows: Boil 1 quart of milk, and stir
into it, while boiling, I tablespoonful of arrow-
root wet with cold milk; when cool, stir into it
the yelk of 1 egg to give it a rich color. 5 min-
utes’ boiling is enough for either plan. Put the
sugar in after they cool; keep the same propor-
tions for any amount desired. Or thus: To 6
qoarts of milk add % 1b. of Oswego starch, first
dissolved; put the starch in 1 quart of the milk;

COOKING AND BAKING.

then mix altogether, and simmer a little (not
boil); sweeten and flavor to your taste; excel-
lent. The juice of strawberries or raspberries
gives a beautiful color and flavor to ice creams,
or about % oz. essence or extracts to l gallon,
or to suit the taste. Have your ice well broken;
I quart of salt to a bucket of ice. About %.an
hour’s constant stirring, with occasional scraping
down and beating together, will freeze it suffi-
piently.

CRULLERS.—% a lb. of butter, ’34 of 3. lb.
of sugar, 2 lbs. of flour, I nutmeg, % a tea-
spoonful of soda dissolved in % a teacup of wa-
ter or milk; 6 eggs.

C UC UMBER SALAD.-—To too cucumbers
add a X of a peek of small onions. Peel both
and cut them into thin slices; cover with salt,
and stand in the sun for 6 hours; rinse clean,
and stand in clear cold water for I hour. For
the dressing take a box of the best mustard, put
into it a little salt, pour in sulficient olive oil to
stir it easily, and add vinegar and oil alternately
till thin enough to pour smoothly. Put the eu-
cumbers in jars, cover with the dressing, and
cover closely. Seal the jars.

C US T A RD, Baked—Boil in a pint of milk a
few coriander seeds, 3. little cinnamon and lemon-
peel; sweeten with 4 oz. of loaf sugar; mix
with it a pint of cold milk; beat 8 eggs for 10
minutes; add the other ingredients; pour it
from one pan into another 6 or 8 times ; strain
through a sieve; let it stand; skim the froth
from the top, fill it in earthen cups, and bake im-
mediatelyin a hot oven; give them a good color;
15 minutes will do them.

C US T ARD, Boiled—Boil a quart of milk
with a little cinnamon, and half a lemon peel;
sweeten it with nice white sugar, strain it, and
when a little cooled mix in gradually 7 well
beaten eggs and a tablespoonful of rose-water;
stir all together over a slow fire till it is of proper
thickness, and then pour it into your glasses.
This makes good boiled custard.

CUSTARD FRITTERS.—Beat the yelks of
4 eggs with a dessert spoonful of flour, a little
nutmeg, salt and brandy; add half a pint of
cream; sweeten it to taste, and bake it in a
small dish for a X of an hour. When cold, cut
it into quarters, and dip them into a batter made
with a X of a pint each of milk and cream, the
whites of the 4 eggs, a little flour, and a good
bit of grated ginger; fry them brown; grate
sugar over them, and serve them as hot as pos-
sible.

DOUGHNUTS.———Half a cup of butter, 2%
cups of sugar well rolled and sifted, 4 eggs, I
teaspoonful of saleratus, I cup of sour milk, I
nutmeg, flour enough to roll; cut in any shape
desired, either in strips or twisted; have the
lard hot enough for the cakes to rise to the sur-
:3: as soon as put in. Thisis an excellent fried

e.

EGGS, Harri and Soft Boiled—It is under—
stood that eggs are more easily digested if “ rare”
than “ well” done ; but which portion of the
egg resists digestion—the “ white,” which is
nearly pure albumen, or the yelk? Lately, ex-
periments have been made in this direction, with
ample opportunity of demonstrating that healthy
gastric juice, which the stomach secretes for pur-
poses of digestion, will not act readily on coag-
ulated white of egg, even if cut in pieces not
larger than ordinary peas, (and that is as fine as

 

51

people usually chew their food,) while it acts
with facility upon the more brittle yelk. The
reason is that the coagulated albumen is very
compact and tenacious, and would need to be
“ ground to powder” to accept the chemical af-
finities of the gastric juice.

Pour into a basin boiling water sufficient to
cover the eggs, put the eggs into the water and
let them remain 10 or 15 minutes, according to
circumstances and your own taste; keep the wa—
ter nearly up to boiling temperature, but do not
boil the eggs. Fresh eggs will cook more
quickly than old ones, and, of course, small ones
quicker than large ones. By this process you
will find the yelks well cooked, while the white
is left in a condition to digest readily.

EGGS, BR01LED.——Cut a large round of
bread; toast it on both sides, and butter it.
Carefully break 6 eggs, and arrange them upon
the toast; sprinkle over them some salt and pep-
per, and slowly pass a red- hot shovel up and
down over them until they are well set. Squeeze
upon them the juice of an orange, and strew
over a little grated nutmeg. Serve as quickly as
possible. If preferred, the toasted bread may
be dipped into some warmed cream, and some
poached eggs placed upon it, and then glazed
with a red-hot shovel.

EGGS, T o Paar/z.-The beauty of a poached
egg, like a fried one, consists in having the
white just sufi‘icientl hardened to form a trans-
parent veil for the ye k. Pour from a tea-kettle
as much boiling water as you shail need, through
a clean cloth into a stew-pan; it should be half
filled. Break the eggs separately into a cup or
saucer, and when the water bOIlS remove the
pan from the heat, and gently slip the eggs in;
when the white is set replace the pan over the
fire, (which should be moderate,) and as soon as
the water boils the eggs are done; remove them
with a slice and trim off the ragged edges. If
served on toast, cut the bread in pieces a little
larger than the egg, and about }{ of an inch
thick; brown only on one side, and just enough
to give a yellow color; too much browning
yields a bitter flavor. The toast may be moist-
ened with a little hot water. Some sprinkle on
it a few drops of vinegar or essence of anchovy
sauce.

EGG OMELE TTE.-—Un1ess a great omel-
ette is to be made, a small frying pan should be
used, so as to insure thickness. 5 or 6 eggs
will make a good sized omelette. Beat them
well with a fork or egg beater; add a salt spoon
of salt; put 2 oz. of butter in the frying pan;
when melted pour in the omelette (beaten eggs,)
stir with a spoon until it begins to set, then turn
it up all around the edges, and when it is of a
nice brown it is done. To take it out, turn a hot
plate over the omelette, and turn the pan upside
down. Double it over like a turnover, and
serve hot. If not sufficiently done on the top,
brown with a salamander or a heated shovel.
To have the omelette particularly fine, about as
many whites as yelks should be used.

EGGS, To T est—One way to tell good eggs
is to put them in a pail of water, and if they are
good they will lie on their sides always ; if bad,
the will stand on their small ends, the large
en always uppermost, unless they have been
shaken considerably, when theywill stand either
end up. Therefore, a bad egg can be told by
the way it rests in the water—always up, never

 
 

52

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

on its side. Any egg that lies flat is good to
eat, and can be depended upon. An ordinary
way is to take them into a room moderately
dark, and hold them between the eye and a can-
dle or lamp. If the egg be good—that is if the
albumen is still unaffected—the light will shine
through with a reddish glow; while, if affected,
it will be opaque or dark.

FISH, To C/zoorec—All fish, of whatever spe-
cies, may be known to be perfectly fresh by
their being rigid and having bright eyes.

Flel, To Boil.—The proper sign that fish is
done byboiling is that the flesh separates readily
from the bone, and has lost all appearance of
redness and transparency. It is important that
this should be kept in view, as fish underdone is
unwholesome. The opposite extreme, however,
must also be carefully guarded against.

FISH SA UCE.—Take 1; a pint of milk and
cream together, 2 eggs wel beaten, salt, a little
pepper, and part of the juice of a lemon. Put
it over the fire and stir it constantly until it be-
gins to thicken.

FISH CIIOWDER.—Haddock and Striped
Bass are generally considered the best fish for
chowder. Cut the fish in pieces about 1 inch
thick and 2 inches square. Cut 5 or 6 good
slices of the best salt pork, lay them in the bot-
tom of an iron pot and fry till crisped, but do
not scorch; take out the pork, leaving the fat,
and chop the ork in small pieces ; put into the
pot a layer ofp fish, a layer of split crackers and
some of the chopped pork ; a little red and
black pepper; a little chopped onion; then an-
other layer of split crackers, fish and seasoning,
and so on till all the fish is used. Then just
cover all with water, and stew slowl till all is
tender. Thicken the gravy with crac er crumbs
and catsup it you like; take out the fish, boil up
the gravy once, squeeze in the juice of a lemon,
and pour the gravy over the fish. Add salt if
necessary.

FISH, To Freshen Salt.—Many persons who
are in the habit of freshening mackerel, or other
salt fish, never dream'that there is a right and
wrong way to do it. Any person who has seen
the process of evaporation goingon at the salt
works, knows that the salt falls to the bottom.
Just so it is in the pan where your mackerel or
white fish lies soaking; and, as it lies with the
skin side down, the salt will fall to the skin, and
there remain; when, if placed with the flesh
side down, the salt falls to the bottom of the pan,
and the fish comes out freshened as it should be.
in the other case it is nearly as salt as when put

in. »

FRUIT CAKE—I 1b. of flour, I of sugar,
I of butter, 12 eggs, 2 lbs. of currants, 2 of rai-
sins, I of Citron; lemon, nutmeg, and mace to
taste. Beat it very light. The fruit should be
'floured and stirred in last, and more flour added
if necessary. Bake in I large pan in a steady,
well-heated oven for 4. or 5 hours, letting it cool
, gradually in the oven. When perfectly cold it
"may be frosted.
_ FRUIT AND VEGETABLES, To Take
Frost out qfi—When a thaw approaches put the
frozen articles in cold water, allowing them to re-
main in it until, by their plump, fair appearance,
the frost seems to be out.

Flr‘ YANG—This is one of the worst methods
of cookery that can be adopted. It cannot be
accomplished without the aid of oil or fat, which

 

beyond question tends to render the meat very
indigestible. It is no less injurious to vegeta-
bles. As an example of this it may be stated
that the potato when fried becomes waxy in its
texture, and often produces derangement of the
stomach in healthy and vigorous persons.

FLOUR, How to Know Good.——I. When
flour is genuine or of the best kind, it holds to-
gether in a mass when squeezed by the hand,
and shows the impressions of the fingers, and
even of the marks of the skin, much longer than
when it is bad or adulterated; and the dough
made with it is very gluey, ductile, elastic, and
easy to be kneaded; and may be elongated, flat-
tened, and drawn in every direction without
breaking—2. Adulterated flour will be found to
be heavier than pure flour—that is to say, a pint
of pure flour would be overbalanced in the
scales by a pint of adulterated flour.—-3. Knead
a little between your fingers; if it works soft,
sticky, it is poor.——4. Put some flour on a table
and blow it gently with your breath. If little
heaps remain upon the table, resisting the action
of your breath, and differing manifestly from the
indications given by other portions when blown
upon, the substance thus remaining is impure.—
5. Place a thimbleful in the palm of your hand
and rub it gently with the finger. If the flour
s‘mooths down, feeling smooth and 'slip ery, it is
of an inferior quality. But if the figur rubs
rough in the palm, feeling like fine sand, and
has an orange tint, purchase confidently.——6.
Bake a small quantity of the suspected flour (in
its dry state) until it is a full brown; then take
it and rub it in your hands or on a table, and
white particles will be seen if either chalk or
plaster-of-Paris should be present in the flour.

FLOUR, To Rosier: and Improve 111ml].—
Carbonate of magnesia, 3 parts ; flour, 760
parts. Mix, and use the flour in the usual way.
This will not only greatly improve bad flour, but
the bread will be much lighter, more wholesome,
and keep longer than when alum is used.

F0 WLS, Choice tyi—If a cock, choose with
short spurs, observing that they have not been
pared or cut ; if a hen, her comb and legs must
be smooth; when old they are rough, and on
the breast long hairs are found instead of feath-
ers ; smell them whether they are fresh, and feel
whether the breast-bone is well-covered ; if not,
they have probably died from disease.

F0 WL, To Brod—Slit the fowl down the
back, and score to the bone all the thicker parts,
as the thighs and breast, in order to its being all
equally done. Brush over the inside and the
places scored with catsup and pepper, and broil
over a clear fire. A sauce should be made of
butter and flour melted brown, into which, when
taken from the fire, should be put capers or but-
ton mushrooms.

FOWL AZVD CHICKENS, To Roast.—
Put them down to a good fire, and baste them
well with butter. A fowl will require nearly an
hour to roast, and a chicken about a )4 of an
hour or 20 minutes. For the fowl let a gravy
be made of the neck and gizzard, and when
strained put in a spoonful of browning. Serve
the chicken with parsley and butter.

FOWLS, How to Cool? Old—Prepare as for
roasting; then boil 3 hours in a covered pot,
with 1 quart of water, to which add 2 tablespoon-
fuls of vinegar ; after which put into a pan. in a
hot oven for about I hourtobrown. The hquor

COOKING AND BAKING.

53

 

in the pot is to be prepared for gravy; should
the water boil away too much more must be ad-
ded. The result is, the meat 15 as tender as
young chicken, and some think richer and bet-
ter.F0 WLS, Sauce fan—An excellent white
sauce for fowls may be made of 2 oz. of butter,
2 small onions, I carrot, % a teacupful of flour,
I pint of new milk, salt and pepper to taste.
Cut up the onions and carrots very small, and
put them into a stew-pan with the butter; 51m-
mer them until the butter is nearly dried up;
' then stir in the flour and add the milk. Boil
the Whole gently until it thickens, strain it, sea-
son with salt and Cayenne, and serve.

F0 WLS, Stewaz'wz't/z 0m'an.—Wash it clean,
dry and truss it as for boiling; put a little pep-
per and salt into it, and rub 1t.w1th butter; 'but-
ter a saucepan; put the fowl 1n the pan With a
pint of veal stock or water, seasoned w1th pep—
per and salt. Turn it while stewmg, and when
quite tender add 12 small onions, split. Stew
all together for % an hour. A young fowl Wlll
take I hour, an old one 3 hours to stew.

GEESE, T a Chosen—A young goose has a
yellow bill; if red, it is a sign of age; if. fresh,
the feet will be pliable, but stale if stiff and
dr .

yGOOSE, ROA S Tl—Presuming that the bird
is carefully plucked, singed, washed, and dried,
put into it a seasoning of onions, sage, pepper,
and salt, fastening tightly the neck and rump.
Put it at first at a distance from the fire ; paper
the breast—bone; baste well, and when the breast
is rising take the paper off. Let good gravy be
sent in the dish. Serve with potatoes, gravy,
and apple sauce. , .

GOOSE, BOILED.-—Having smged the
goose, pour over it a quart of boiling milk; let
it lie all night in the milk, after Wthl’l take 1t.out
and dry it well; stuff it with sage and onion,
cut small; sew up the openings, and hang it up
for a day. Boil for I hour, and serve w1th onion
sauce. '

GEZIIS.—They are cheap, easily made, whole-
some and palatable. Graham flour and water
are stirred together to the consistency of -a thick
pancake batter, and baked in the iron or t1n gem
pans. Gems, whether of Graham meal, fine
flour, or corn meal, should be put into a Izot
oven. Success depends on this. Fine flour and
sweet milk, (skimmed milk is good enough,)
well beaten together, rather thicker than the bat-
ter, makes a very sweet and good kind of warm
bread. Corn bread of the best kind can be made
without eggs or shortening, or sweetening.
Simply scald the meal with boiling water, add a
little salt, stir well and bake quickly in the gem
pans. We thought the Graham and white gems
must have salt, until we found that its absence
was not observed, and then we discarded it, as
it seems an unreasonable amount of salt is eaten
under the plea of a little salt being necessary.

GIN GERBREAD.—-2 cups of molasses and
I of butter; 2 teaspoons of ginger, and I even
full of bicarbonate of soda; I tea-cup of warm
water; flour enough to make a soft dough. Af-
ter it is placed in the bake tin, flour your hands
to pat it into shape, and with a knife cross-cut
the top into squares or diamonds. Bake until
done.

GINGERBREAD, SPICE.—Take 3 lbs. of
hour, I lb. of butter, I lb. of moist sugar, 4 oz.

 

of candied orange or lemon peel, out small; I
02. of powdered ginger, 2 oz. of powdered a11-
spice, % an oz. of powdered cinnamon, 3. hand-
ful of caraway seeds, and 3 lbs. of treacle; rub
the butter with your hand into the flour, then
add the other ingredients, and mix it in the
dough with the treacle; make it into cakes or
nuts, and bake it in a warm oven. '

GINGER SNAPS.—-—I pint of baking mo- ‘
lasses, I 1b. of sugar, % lb. of lard, % oz. of
ginger, and I tablespoonful of cinnamon. Work
the lard, molasses and sugar together, and add
flour enough to make a stiff dough. Roll out
thin, cut with a round cake-cutter, and bake

uickly.

GINGER BIS C U] T.——Rub % a lb. of fresh
butter into‘ 2 lbs. of fine flour; add % 1b. of
sifted sugar, and 3 oz. of pounded ginger. Beat
up the yelks of 3 eggs, and take a little milk
with which to make the above ingredients into a
paste. Knead it all well together, and roll it
out extremely thin, and cut it into the form of
round biscuits with a paste-cutter. Bake them
in a slow oven until crisp, taking care that they
are a pale brown color.

GRAVY, BROWN—3 onions, sliced and
fried in butter to a nice brown; toast a large,
thin slice of bread a considerable time until very
hard and of a deep brown. Take these, with
any piece of meat, bone, etc., and some herbs,
and set them on the fire, with water according to
judgment, and stew down until a thick gravy is
produced. Season, strain, and keep cool.

GREEN—CORN CAKES—Grate the corn,
make a rich batter with cream, or according to
directions given for batter cakes. Use just suf-
ficient of the batter to hold the corn together,
and lay the cakes on the griddle as you would a.
common griddle cake. Serve with butter.

GREEN—CORN PUDDING—~12 ears of
corn, grated; 3 eggs, well beaten; I pint of
sweet milk, % a cupful of butter, I large spoon-
ful of sugar, pepper and salt. Bake in a large
pudding-pan 2 hours.

GREEN PEAS, To Stem—Put into the
stew-pan a quart of peas, a lettuce, and an onion
sliced, butter, pepper, salt, but no more water
than remains about the lettuce after washing.
Stew 2 hours very gently. When to be served,
beat up an egg and stir it into them, or a little
flour and water.

* GRUEL, WA TER.—Take of the coarse
part of corn meal or grist, 2 handsful; water, 3
quarts; boil it till only2 quarts remain, then
strain off the liquor, and season it to the palate
with salt, sugar and nutmeg, to which may be
added a spoonful or two of wine.—2. Take
of oatmeal 2 large spoonfuls; water, I quart.
Mix them well, and boil them about 10 or 15
minutes, stirring often; then strain the gruel
through a sieve, and add sugar and salt enough
to make it agreeable to the taste. When it is
designed as a meal, dissolve in it a little butter, ,
and then add bread and nutmeg, as occasion re-

ulres. .

HADDOCJF, To Fry—Skin the fish, cover
it with bread-crumb and egg, seasoned with salt
and pepper, and fry with boiling lard or butter.

HOTCH-POTCH—(A favorite Scotch soup.)
Boil a good-sized neck or breast of lamb for %
an hour; take out of the sou pot 6 of the best
chops, and lay them asi ‘e; t en boil the rest to
a good stock. Wash a.-d cut into small pieces 4

 

54

freshly pulled young turnips, 4 young carrots, I2
{oung onions, a good-sized lettuce, and a small

unch of parsley; boil all these in the stock I
hour. 20 minutes before the soup is required,
cut up a fresh cauliflower and put it in, together
with a quart of green peas, a pint of young
beans, and a little pe per and salt; heat the
chops that have been laid aside, and pour the
soup over them in the tureen. A sprig of mint
is an improvement.

HOPS, To Clzoost.—VVhen rubbed between
the fingers, or on the palm of the hand, good
hops will feel glutinous, have a fragrant smell,
and develop a fine yellow dust. The seeds
should be ripe, and the leaves full and unbroken,
and of a fine brownish-yellow green. Avoid
yearlings, unless you can get them in good con-
dition, and % the price of new hops.

ICE CREAM, ST/l‘A WBERRK—Take I
pint of strawberries, I pint of cream, nearly }4
3 lb. of powdered white sugar, and the juice of
a lemon; mash the fruit through a sieve, and
take out the seeds, mix with the other articles,
and freeze; a little new milk added makes the
whole freeze more quickly.

ICE CREAM, RASPBERRK—The same
as strawberry. These ices are often colored by
cochineal, but the addition is not advantageous
to the flavor. Strawberry or raspberry jam may
be used instead of the fresh fruit, or equal quan-
tities of jam and fruit employed. Of course the
quantity of sugar must be proportionately di-
minished. .

ICE, Lemon Water.-—-Lemon juice and wa-
ter, each % a pint; strong syrup, I pint; the
rind of the lemon should be rasped off before
squeezing with lump sugar, which is to be ad-
ded to the juice; mix the whole; strain after
standing an hour, and freeze. Beat up with a
little sugar the whites of 2 or 3 eggs, and as the
ice is beginning to set, work this in with the
spatula, which will much improve the consist-
ence and taste.

ITALIAN CREAIlL—To a pint of rich
milk add as much fine white sugar as will sweet-
en it, the rind of a large lemon pared thin, a
small piece of cinnamon, and % of an 02. of
isinglass ; put all these ingredients into a lined
saucepan, and boil till the isinglass is perfectly
dissolved; beat the yelks of 6 eggs very well in
a large basin, and strain the milk while boiling
hot to the eggs, stirring them rapidly all the
time; continue to stir till the mixture is nearly
cold; before putting it into the shape add a des-
sert spoonful of strained lemon juice; it will
turn out in a few hours. ‘

INDIAN—MEAL CAKES—To 3 pints of
Indian meal, a piece of butter as large as an egg,
anda teaspoonful of salt. Put 2 tea-cupfuls of
boiling water, stir it in, then add 3 eggs, and
milk to make it to the consistency of batter.

INDIAN— MEAL PUDDING.—Into I
quart of boiling milk stir I quart of sifted fine
meal; then add I quart of cold milk, 2 well
beaten eggs, % of a cup of sugar, and I cup of
flour. Stir well and pour it into a buttered dish.
Bake 2 hours, and serve with butter.

INDIAN PONE.—Put I quart of water in
a pot; as soon as it boils stir in as much Indian
meal as will make a ver thin batter. Beat it
frequently while it is boiling, which will require
10 minutes; then take it off, pour it in a an,
and add I 02. of butter, and salt to taste. en

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

the batter is lukewarm, stir in as much Indian
meal as will make it quite thick; set it away to
rise in the evening; in the morning make it out
in small cakes, butter your tins, and bake in a
moderate oven. Or the more common way is to
butter pans, fill them 3 parts full, and bake them.
This cake requires no yeast.

” yELLY, Arrowroot.—Put half a pint of

water, a glass of sherry, a little grated nutmeg
and fine sugar into a saucepan; and when boil-
ing mix gradually with them a dessert-spoonful
of arrowroot already rubbed smooth in a table-
spoonful of cold water. Boil all together for 3
minutes, and pour into glasses or small cups.
This jelly may be flavored with the juice of any
fruit that is in season, or with orange or lemon
juice. ,
* yELLY, APPLE.—Slice whole apples—
(cores, parings and all)-—cook them With just
water enough to cover them till reduced to a soft
pulp. Take the rind and juice of 4 lemons;
strain this pulp, (not squeezing much, or going
over it twice ;) slice the lemons, measure a pint
for a lb. of white sugar; let it boil for half an
hour, and turn into forms. Quince, etc., the
same way.

" yELLY, CAL VES’ FEEL—For each
foot take 3 pints of water, and boil it to half that
quantity; then let it cool, and skim off the fat.
It must now be boiled for 2 or 3 minutes with
the peel of alemon and a little spice, when it
should be removed from the fire, strained through
a flannel bag, and the juice of a lemon anda
glass of wine added; when cooled a little, it
may be put into glasses or forms.

* _‘7ELLY, CHICKEN—Take I large fowl,
put it into a saucepan with 2 quarts of water, I
large onion, I "blade of 'mace, and I teaspoonful
of salt; boil all till reduced to 3 pints, then strain
it, and let it stand till the next day; then take off
the fat very clean, take the whites of 6 eggs,
half an oz. of isinglass, the juice of I or 2 lem-
ons, beat them well altogether, and boil it till
the scum rises to the top. Let it stand a few
minutes. then strain it through a jelly-bag. The
above is a very strengthening preparation, and
may be taken cold or hot, as best suits the pa-
tient’s taste. _'

* yELL Y, SA GO.-—Boil a teacupful of sago
in 4 pints of water, till quite thick; when cold,
add a pint of raspberry juice, pressed from fresh
fruit, or half the quantity of raspberry syrup;
add enough loaf sugar to sweeten it, boil it fast
for 5 minutes, and put it into a shape which has
been steeped in cold water; pour a little cream
over the jelly in the dish.

y'ELL Y ORA N GEL—Squeeze the juice from
Io sweet and I Seville orange; add the juice of
2 and the rind of I lemon pared thin; loaf sugar
enough to sweeten the juice, I quart of water,
and 4 oz. of isinglass. Boil all these ingredients
for a few minutes, and then strain through a
jelly-bag till clear, and put it into shapes. Add
a little saffron if the color is too pale.

LAMB, To Yudgeqf its Quality.—If fresh,
the vein in the neck of a fore-quarter is bluish;
if green or yellow, stale. In the hind-quarter,
if the knuckle is limp, and the part under the
kidney smells slightly disagreeable, av01d it. If
the eyes are sunken, do not buy the head.

LAMB, To Roast—The hind quarter of lamb
usually weighs from 7 to 10 lbs. ; this size will
take aboutz hours to roast it. Have a brisk

COOKING AND BAKING.

fire. It must be very frequently basted while
roasting. and sprinkled with a little salt, and
dredged all over with flour, about % an hour be-
fore it is done. _

LAMB, Leg of, To Bail—It must be put into
boiling water, then the saucepan (or deep fish
kettle with a drainer is best) drawn back, and
the water allowed to simmer gently, reckoning
[8 minutes to each lb. ; if it boils fast, the meat
will be hard and the skin broken. It should be
lifted out of the water with the drainer, and no
fork be stuck into it; if the scum has settled
upon it, wash it off with some of the liquor be-
fore sending to table. Parsley and butter are
served with this, or delicate caper sauce and
young carrots.

LEMON CAKE.—Beat 6 eggs, the yelks
and whites separately, till in a solid froth; add
to the yclks the grated rind of a fine lemon and
6 oz. of sugar dried and sifted; beat this a %
of an hour; shake in with the left hand 6 oz. of
dried flour; then add the whites of the eggs and
the juice of the lemon; when these are well
beaten in, put it immediately into tins, and bake
it about an hour in a moderately hot oven.

LEMON PlE.—2 lemons; squeeze out the
juice, and chop the lemons fine, (take out the
seeds ;) 3 cups of water, 3 cups of sugar, I egg,
% of a cup of flour; beat the egg well with a
cup of water and the flour; then stir lemons,
juice, and all together; this will be sufficient for

les.

3 I.JLEIIION SA UCE.—Melt 2 oz. of butter in
a little water; put in 2 oz. of sugar, the juice
and grated rind of half a lemon, and the pulp
and juice of the other half. Boil together 5
minutes, and serve hot for cold puddings.

*LEMON WA TER.—Put 2 or 3 slices of
lemon, with a lump of sugar and a spoonful of
capillaire, into a covered jug, and pour into it a
pint of boiling water. Cover it closely for 2 or

3 hours. It will thus form a very agreeable
drink for a feverish atient.
MA CKEREL, o Fry—Divide the fish into

pieces; remove the skin; dip them in beaten
egg; strew on them chopped parsley and bread
crumbs, and fry them. For sauce melt some
butter with a little flour, put into it the roes of
the fish, pounded; season with salt and Cay-
enne, and a little catsup, and pour it hot over
the fish.

MA CANON], Boiled—Soak and boil the
macaroni in plenty of milk and water ; throw in
a little salt. Boil until tender, but not until the
form is lost. When soft, turn into a baking
dish, pour over the top the contents of a whisked
egg, and bake until brown. This process ren-
ders it a more attractive dish than when simply
boiled. Macaroni, with cream, sugar and cin-
namon, makes a very nice, sweet dish.

MEAT, T ext of Ball's—I. Good meat is nei-
ther of a pale pink color, nor of a deep purple
tint; for the former is a sign of disease, and the
latter indicates that the animal has not been duly
slaughtered, but has died with the blood in it, or
has suffered from acute disease.—2. It has the
appearance of marble, from the ramifications of
little veins of fat among the muscles.—3. It
should be firm and elastic to the touch, and will
scarcely moisten the fingers—bad meat being
wet, sodden and flabby, with the fat looking like
jelly or wet parchment.—4. It should have lit-
tle or no odor, and the odor should not be disa-

 

55

greeable; for diseased meat has a sickly, cadav-
erous smell, and sometimes a smell of physio.
This is very discoverable when the meat is cut
up and drenched with warm water.-7——5. It must
not shrink or waste much in cooking—6. It
should not run to water, or become very wet on
standing for a day or so, but should, upon the
contrary, dry upon the surface—7. When dried
at a temperature of 212°, or thereabouts, it will
not lose more than from 70 to 74 per cent. of its
weight, whereas bad meat willoften lose as much
as 80 per cent. Other properties of a more re-
fined character will also serve for the recognition
of bad meat—as that the iuice of the flesh is al-
kaline or neutral to test paper, instead of being
distinctly acid, and the muscular fibre, when ex-
amined under the microscope, is found to be
sodden and ill-defined.

flIEA T, Stewed. —Stewiqg is undoubtedly the
most economical mode of cooking meat; by its
use every part of the meat is retained, and noth-
ing is lost or wasted. Joints, too tough or sin-
ewy to be used in any other way, may be-stewed
with advantage. Stewing consists in subjecting
meat for a considerable time to a very moderate
heat in a small quantity of water. N 0 good
stew for an early dinner can be made the day it
is wanted. The plan recommended is to cut the
meat in pieces of the required size, pack them
closely together, covering them with cold water,
or what is preferable, broth; place the stew-pan
where it will gradually warm, and keep it for
some hours at a heat considerably short of boil-
ing. The albumen is thus dissolved, and the
fibres so far softened and separated that the very
toughest parts become tender and digestible.
The stew should be put away in an open vessel
until the next day, when the fat should be re-
moved from the top, and vegetables and season-
ing added.

MEAT, Straréourg Potted.—Take 3 lbs. of
the rump of beef, cut into small bits, and put it
in an earthen jar with a % of a lb. of butter at
the bottom; make a paste of flour and water;
cover the jar closely, and set it in a pot of boil-
ing water. In 2 hours take it out, and add I
teaspoonful of allspice, the same of pepper, and
2 of salt ; then boil another hour. Let it stand
until cold; pound the meat with a pestle until it
is entirely broken up; add to it the liquor in the
pot, and 3 large tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup.
Press into small pots and cover with melted but-
ter. It will keep 2 or 3 months in a cold, dry
place, and is a delicious relish for breakfast, tea.
or lunch.

“ MEATPANADA.—Take the inside of a
loin of mutton or of part of a sirloin of beef;
pound it until it will pass through a sieve when
mixed with hot water or with broth, as it is re—
quired to be more or less rich. The most proper
seasoning is a little salt. It ought to be kept in
an earthen vessel in a cool place. When a little
of it is required it should be warmed up and
served with thin slices of bread.

MILK BISCUIT—Take 1 lb. of flour, ,‘4
of a lb. of butter, 8 tablespoonfuls of yeast, and
% a pint of new milk. Melt the butter in the
milk, put in the yeast and some salt, and work
into a stiff paste. When light, knead it well,
roll it out an inch thick, cut out with a tumbler,
prick them with a fork, and bake in a quick
oven.

*MILK WEEK—Place a small piece of ‘

56

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DA Y WANTS.

 

rennet in a cup of hot water for 4 or 5 hours.
Pour the water into 2 quarts of new milk, and
when the curd appears, strain the whole through
a hair sieve into a jug; The whey may be given
to a atient either cool or lukewarm.

OLASSES.——When molasses is used in
cooking, it is a very great improvement to boil
and skim it before you use it. It takes out the
unpleasant raw taste, and makes it almost as
good as sugar. Where molasses is used much
for cooking, it is well to prepare I or 2 gallons
in this way at a time.

M UFF]NS.—I pint of milk, 1 tablespoon of
butter, I pint of flour, a small teaspoon of salt,
3 eggs, the whites anrl yelks beaten separately
and very stiff; a small teaspoon even full of
soda; add the whites last, beat smartly and per-
fectly free from lumps. Butter the griddle, and
bake in well-buttered rings. When the bottom
is done, turn over the rings and bake the top, or
put the rings on a well-buttered bake-pan, and

ake in a quick oven.

* MULLED EGG—Beat the yelk of a fresh
egg in a tea or coffee cup, put in a little milk or
cream and sugar, and then pour into it as much
tea or coffee as will fill the cup, taking care to
stir it well at the same time to prevent the egg
from curdling. This makes a good breakfast for
an invalid. It is light and nourishing without
being heatin .

M USIIA’OO/US, To Dirtz'ng‘uir/z from Poi-
.mnour Fungi.—1. Sprinkle a little salt on the
spongy part or gills of the sample to be tried.
If they turn yellow they are poisonous—if black
they are wholesome. Allow the salt to act be-
fore you decide on the question.——2. False
mushrooms have a warty cap, or else fragments
ot membrane, adhering to the upper surface;
they are also heavy, and emerge from a vulva or
bag; they grow in tufts or clusters in woods, on
the stumps of trees, etc., whereas the true mush-
rooms grow in pastures—3. False mushrooms
have an astringent, styptic, and disagreeable
taste.-——4. When cut they turn blue—5. They
are moist on the surface, and generally,—6. 0t
a rose or orange color.—7. The gills of the true
mushroom are of a pinky red, changing to a
liver color.——8. The flesh is white—9. The
stem is white, solid and cylindrical.

MUSIIROOMS, Broiled—Mushroom-flaps,
pepper and salt to taste, butter, lemon—juice.
Cleanse the mushrooms by wiping with a piece
of flannel and a little salt; cut off a portion of
the stalk, and peel the tops; broil them over a
clear fire, turning them once, and arrange them
on a very hot dish. Put a small piece of butter
on each mushroom, season with pepper and
salt, and squeeze over them a few drops of lem-
on-juice. Place the dish before the fire, and
when the butter is melted serve very hot and
quickly. Moderatesized flaps are better suited
to this mode of cooking than the buttons; the
latter are better in stews.

AIUSIIROOZIIS, To Slam—Trim and rub
clear: with abit of flannel dipped in salt, % a
pint of large button mushrooms ; put into a
stewpan 2 oz. of butter; shake it over the fire
till thoroughly melted ; put in the mushrooms, a
teaspoonful of salt, half 'as much pepper, and a
blade of mace pounded; stew till the mush-
rooms are tender, then serve them on a very hot

dis .
MUSHROOM CA T S UP.—-—Gather mush~

 

rooms in dry weather; take the large, fully-
grown fla s, and see that they are free from in-
sects an earth. Add to each peek of mush-
rooms % a lb. of salt; break them up into a
large earthenware pan, strew the salt over them,
and let them stand for 3 days, stirring and
mashing them up each day, then strain out all
the juice. To every quart of juice put % an
oz. of whole black pepper, )4 an oz, of bruised
ginger, % of an oz. of allspice, % of an oz. of
Cayenne, and the same quantity of pounded
mace. Put all the spices with the juice into a
large earthenware jar, (standing in a pot of wa«
ter,) and boil for 3 hours; or the catsup may
be boiled in a preserving pan. -Let the spices
remain in it when bottled.

[MUST/1RD, Superior Talia—Take of.best
flour of mustard, 2 lbs. ; fresh parsley, % oz. ;
chervil, % oz. ; celery, % oz. ; Tarragon, %
oz.; garlic, 1 clove; and 12 salt anchovies, (all
well chopped;) grind well together ; add of salt
I 02., and sufiicient grape juice or sugar to
sweeten, with sufficient water to form the mass
into a thinnish paste by trituration in a mortar.
When put into pots, a red-hot poker is to be
thrust into each, and a little vinegar afterwards
poured upon the surface.

,AIUSTARD, FRENCIL—Salt, 1% lbs.;
scraped horse-radish, I 1b.; garlic, 2 cloves
boiling vinegar, 2 gallons; macerate in a cov-
ered vessel for 24 hours; strain, and add suffi-
cient flour of mustard.

1!! UT T 01V, To fudge its Qualifie—The
meat should be firm and close in grain, and red
in color; the fat white and firm. Mutton is in
its prime when the sheep is about 5 years old,
though it is often killed much younger. If too
young, the flesh feels tender when pinched; if
too old, on being pinched it wrinkles up, and so
remains. In young mutton, the fat readily sep-
arates ; in old, it is held together by strings of
skin. In sheep diseased of the rot, the flesh is
very pale-colored, the fat inclining to yellow;
the meat appears loose from the bone, and, if
squeezed, drops of water ooze out from the
grains; after cooking, the meat drops clean
away from the bones. W'ether mutton is pre-
ferred to that of the ewe; it may be known by
the lump of fat on the inside of the thigh.

fl] U T 7' 01V, T a Roar! a Saddle (if—Take
lean ham, truffles, green onions, parsley, thyme,
and sweet herbs, all chopped small, with some
spice, pepper and salt. Strew them over the
mutton when the skin is taken off, put the skin
over it neatly, and before roasting it tie over it
white paper well buttered. When the meat is
nearly done take off the paper, in order that the
surface of the meat may be nicely browned.

[PI UT T 01V, Stewed Leg {vi—Put it into the
stew-pan with either broth or water, 2 or 3 car-
rots, a turnip, an onion, and a few black pepper-
corns. After coming toa boil, simmer for 2%
hours, take out the broth and vegetables, dredge
the meat with flour, and put it again on the fire
to brown, leaving off the cover. Pulp the vege-.
tables through a sieve, and boil them up with
the gravy, adding a tablespoonful of vinegar.
Pour part of the sauce on the meat and send the
rest to table in a tureen. ‘

" MUTTONBROTH—z lbs. of a neck of
mutton, a large handful of chervil; put these
into 2 quarts of water and boil down to 1 quart.
All of the fat should be removed. . A pint may

COOKING AND BAKING.

be taken 2 or 3 times a day. It affords excel-
lent nutriment to the weak.

NUT MEGS, To Edam—Prick them with a
pin. If they are good the oil will instantly
spread around the puncture.

OYS T ERS—Ar: T Izzy Healtfiy P—Open an
o ster, retain the liquor in the lower or deep
5 ell, and, if viewed through a microscope, it
will be found to contain multitudes of small oys-
ters, covered with shells and swimming nimbly
about—120 of which extend but I inch. Be-
sides these young oysters, the liquor contains a
variety of animalculae, and myriads of 3 distinct
species of worms. Sometimes their light rep-
resents a bluish star about the centre of the
shell, which will be beautifully luminous in a
darkroom. ' .

OYSTER STEW—Stew the oysters In
their own liquor, and season to the taste with a
little salt and pepper; butter may be added.
Stews are often improved, in the opinion of
many, by the addition of milk or cream, and
condiments in the way of mace, parsley or nut-
meg, If thickening of the soup is desired,
grated cracker is preferable to flour. The best.
cooks omit flour entirely. A piece of butter
rolled in grated cracker may be added. Pour
the oysters, when done, over a dish floored with
crackers, or covered with layers of crispy toasted
bread.

OYSTERS, To Fry.—After they are taken
from the shell, dry them on a clean cloth or nap-
kin. Beat up the yelks of eggs with thick,
sweet cream—I yelk to 2 tablespoons of cream.
Rub together some grated bread crumbs or
cracker, and a little salt and pepper. Have hot
in a skillet % of a 1b. of melted butter. Dip
each oyster in the beaten yelk and cream, and
then roll it in the crumbs, coaxing them to ad-
here to it. Drop into the skillet, and fry until
of a light brown color on both sides. They
ought to be crisp and light. Never pour over
them the melted grease that may remain.

OYS T E135, To Bake, Roast or Bail.—But a
few minutes are required for this. Wash the
shells clean. To roast, lay the shells on a grid-
iron, over a bed of live coals. When the shells
open they are done. Lift off the top, and serve
in the under shell. To bake them, put in a pan
in hot oven; otherwise follow the same direc-
tions as for roasting. To boil, put them in a

t of boiling water. Serve in the shell.

OYSTER S OUP.-——To each dozen or dish of
oysters put half a. pint of water; milk I gill;
butter half an oz. ; powdered crackers to thicken.
Bring the oysters and water to a boil, then add
the other ingredients previously mixed together,
and boil from 3 to 5 minutes only.

0 YSTER PA TTIES.—Take of oysters suf-
ficient for the patties you may chance to want,
strain the liquor and return it to‘them; mix
them with very fine bread crumbs until they are
of a proper thickness; add alittle scalded cream,
and season the whole with pepper, salt, and ca -
enne pepper; warm the whole in a saucepan tlll
it begins to simmer; when cold, ut it in the
paste, and bake it in the shape 0 small mince

ies, 3 inches in diameter. The beards and
orny part should be cut off, and the oysters
cut in 2 or 3 pieces.

OYSTERS, ARTIFICIAL—Take young
green corn, and grate it in a dish; to 1 pint of
this add I egg well beaten, a small teacup of

 

57

flour, % a cup of butter, some salt and pepper,
and mix them well together. A tablespoonful
of the batter will make the size of an oyster.
Fry them a light brown, and when done butter
them. Cream, if it can be procured, is better
than butter.

OAT CAKES, SCOTCH—Put 3 handfuls
of best Scotch ( atmeal into a basin, with a bit of .
butter the size of a nutmeg; add as much cold
water as will form it into a cake. Press the
cake out with the hands until it is thin, then roll
with the rolling pin till it is almost as thin as a.
silver dollar. Have the griddle already heated,
sift a little meal over it, and lay on the cake.
When the under side is brown, toast the upper
side in a toaster before the fire to make it crisp.
These cakes should be kept in the meal chest
among the dry meal to preserve their crispness,
which is their peculiarity. They are extremely
nice to eat with cheese.

OMELE T T E.—-Beat separately the yelks
and whites of 4 fresh eggs; to the yelks add as
much powdered white sugar as will sweeten it,
and a small dessert-spoonful of corn flour, very
smoothly blended in a spoonful of cream or good
milk. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, add the
flour to the yelks, and gently stir in the whites,
taking care to break the froth as little as possi-
ble ; pour the whole into a clean frying-pan
from which the butter has been drained; 2 or
minutes over a clear fire is enough to cook the
under side; hold the pan to the fire till the up-
per side looks firm; spread raspberry or straw-
berry jam over one half, turn the other side over
it, and serve immediate] .

ONIONS, BOILED.—Take the outside skin
from white onions as uniform in size as possible,
lay them in cold salt and water for I hour, and
then boil them in milk and water until thor-
oughly tender; lay them in a deep dish, and
pour over them melted butter.

ONIONS, ROASTED.—These should be
cooked in their skins; but before putting them
into the oven brush off all grittiness. Place in a
moderate oven, cooking gradually until nearly
done; then quicken the oven and brown. Serve
with plenty of fresh butter.

PA STE for Fruit or Meat Pita—This paste
may be made with % of wheat flour, % of the
flour of boiled potatoes, and some butter or
dripping; the whole being brought to a consist-
ence with warm water, and a small quantity of
yeast added when lightness is desired.

PARTRIDGES, To Roast.—Rightly to look
well there should be a leash (3 birds) in the
dish; luck, singe, draw and truss them; roast
them or about 20 minutes ; baste them with
butter, and when the gravy begins to run from
them you may safely assume that the partridges
are done; place them in a dish, together with
bread crumbs, fried nicely brown and arranged
in small heaps. Gravy should be served in a
tureen apart.

PARTRIDGES, To Broil. —Cut them in
half, dip them in a butter previously melted, and
cover them thickly with crumbs of bread. A
% of an hour ought to be sufficient to cook them
over a clear fire. ,

PARTRIDGE PIE—2 braces of partridges
are required to make a handsome pie. Truss
them as for boiling; pound in a mortar the liv-
ers of the birds, a % of a lb. of fat bacon, and
some shred parsley; lay part of this forcemeat

53

at the bottom of a raised crust; put in the part-
ridges, add the remainder of the forcemeat and a
few mushrooms; put some slices of bacon fat
on the top, cover with a lid of crust, and bake it
for 2% hours. Before serving the pie remove
the lid, take out the bacon, and add sufficient
rich gravy and orange juice. Partridge pie may
also be made in a dish in the ordinary way.

PASTE, Rick and Light—To I 1b. of flour,
dried and sifted, take % a lb. of good fresh but-
ter and % a lb. of lard; divide the flour into 2
equal portions ; put % on the paste-board; cut
the butter (from which the water should be
squeezed) into slices about % an inch thick; do
the same with the lard; cover the slices with
flour, roll them out thin with the rolling-pin and
lay them aside; put the other % of the flour
into a basin, work into it with a spoon a K of
a pint of water, or enough to make the flour into
a stiff dough—too wet a dough will make tough
paste—lay this upon the paste-board, and roll it
out till it is )/z an inch thick, then lay the fourth
part of the butter and lard all over it, fold it up
and roll it again; put on another fourth of the
butter, and repeat the buttering and rolling till
all the rolled butter is mixed in.
the tart, and bake it in a brisk oven. Always
handle pastry as lightly as possible, particularly
after the butter has been put in.

PASTE, POTA T0.——-Al% of a 1b. of cold
boiled potatoes to % a lb. 0 flour, rubbed well
together, wet with very little water, and add 6
oz. of good lard or butter. For a sweet paste,
add a tablespoonful of powdered sugar; for a
meat paste the same quantity of salt.

PA RSNIPS, To Boil. Wash the parsnips,
scrape, boil tender, and then slice and brown on
a griddle, with butter to prevent sticking. Car-
rots are good, cooked in the same way.

" PANADA, BREAD.—Soak a few thin
slices of stale, light, and well-baked bread in
hot water, so as to form a pulp of suitable con-
sistence. Simmer it gently, with some little ad-
dition of water from time to time as it thickens;
then add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of warm milk, a
little loaf sugar, and a few grains of salt. The
objection to this bread-pap, as commonly used,
is that nurses are sometimes apt to make it too
thick.

* PANADA, CHICKEN—Skin a fowl; cut
it in pieces, leaving the breast whole; boil it in
3 pints of water till perfectly tender, pick off the
meat, and pound it finely in a mortar, and mix
it with the liquor it was boiled in; rub it through
a sieve, and season it with salt.

PEARS, To Balm—Take ripe pears and
wipe them carefully; place a layer stem upward
in a stone jar; sprinkle over sugar; then set in
another layer of pears, and so on till the jar is
filled. To every gallon put in 1% pints of wa-
ter. Cover the top of the jar with pie crust,
and set in a slow oven for 2 hours.

PEACHES, T o P:el.-—In eeling small
peaches with a knife, too much of3 the peach is
wasted; but by having a wire cage similar to
those made for popping corn this waste is obvi-
ated. Fill the cage with peaches, and dip it into
boiling water for a moment, then into cold wa-
ter for a moment, and empty out—going on in
the same way for all you wish to peel. This
toughens the skin and enables you to strip it 01?,
saving much in labor, as also the waste of the

peach.

Then cover ‘

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

PEAS, T o Sierra—Take a quart of shelled
peas, a large onion, or two of middling size, and
21ettuces out small; put them into a saucepan
with % a pint of water; season them with a lit-
tle salt, a little pepper, mace and nutmeg.
Cover them close, and let them stew a ’4 of an
hour; then put in a % of a lb. of fres butter
rolled in a little flour, a spoonful of catsup, and
a small piece of butter as big as a nutmeg; cover
them close, and simmer gently an hour, often
shaking the pan. '

PIE, CREAM.——For 1 pie, take 2 eggs, 1/2’
cup of sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 pint of
sweet milk; heat your milk; beat sugar, eggs
and flour together; add to the scalded milk, and
cook to a thick custard; flavor with lemons;
bake your crust, and when cold fill with‘ the
custard.

PIE, LEAIOM—Grate % of the outside of
a lemon, and squeeze out the juice; yelks of 2
eggs; 2 tablespoonfuls, heaped, of sugar; %
cup of water; 1 teaspoonful of butter; stir well,
and bake in a deep dish lined with crust. Beat
the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth; stir in 2
tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar, and spread
Over the top of the pie, as soon as it is baked.
Set in the oven till the top is nice browned.

PIE, AIINCE.—Take of boiled beef, chop-
ped fine and salted, 1 pint; apples, chopped
fine, I quart; butter or suet, I teacupful; I tea-
cup sugar, I pint each of boiled cider and water.
Stew all together until the apples are done, and
when cold add I pint of canned or stewed rasp-
berries or blackberries, I teaspoonful of pepper,
I of Cloves, 2 of cinnamon, and 2 of allspice.

PIE, 0/?ANGE.—Take the juice and pulp
of 6 large, sour oranges, and the grated rind of
4, a little salt, 3 cupfuls of sugar, 3 eggs, 4 cup-
fuls of water, 6 spoonfuls of rice flour. Mix
these ingredients well together, make a. good
crust, and bake like other pies.

PIE, PEA CAR—Take good ripe peaches,
halve and stone them; make a good short crust,
and lay it in your pie-plates. Lay your peaches
evenly to cover it; then add to each moderate-
sized pie about 3 spoonfuls of white sugar, and a
few drops of essence of lemon or rose, and % a
teacupful of water; cover, and bake like other

res.
p‘ PIE, PUMPKIN—Choose the best pump.
kins that can be found. Take out the seeds, cut
the rind carefully away, and then cut the pump-
kin into thin and narrow bits. Stew over a
moderate fire in a little water—just enough to
keep the mass from burning—until soft. Turn

'off the water, if any remains, and let the pump-.

kin steam over a slow fire about 10 minutes.
When sufliciently cooled, strain through a sieve.
Sweeten the pumpkin with sugar and a little mo-
lasses. The sugar and eggs should be beaten
together. The flavoring requires ginger, the
grated rind of a lemon or nutmeg, and salt. To
I quart of pumpkin add I quart of milk and4
eggs for ordinary richness: .

Heat the pumpkin scalding hot before putting
it upon the crust to bake, otherwrse the crust
will be scalded. Bake in a very hot oven.

PI GEONS.-—Pigeons are very indifferent
food when they are too long kept. Suppleness
of the feet show them to be young; the state ot
the flesh is flaccid when they are getting had
from keeping. Tame pigeons are larger than
the wild.

COOKING AND BAKING.

PIGEONS, Stewed—Make a seasoning of
pepper, salt, cloves, mace, sweet herbs, and a
piece of butter rolled in flour, and put it into
them, closing the opening. Half roast them;
then stew them in good gravy, with whole pep-
per, mace, lemon, sweet herbs, and a small
onion. Take them out when done, strain the
liquor, skim it, and thicken it with a piece of
butter rolled in flour; then put in the pigeons
With some pickled mushrooms, and stew them
for 5 minutes. Pour the sauce over them in the

s .

PORK AS FO0D.—Is the prohibition of

ork to the Jews, as unclean food, founded on
intrinsic unhealthfulness of the food itself P An
article in one of our prominent monthlies ex-
presses the opinion that it is, and gives a most
disgusting picture of the diseased constitution of
the hog. It says that “ Vermont, New Hamp-
shire, Maine, and other New England States,
where the inhabitants send their beef cattle to
Boston market, and live principally on pork as
meat the year round, myriads of them are af-
flicted with scrofula, salt-rheum, tetter, ring-
worm, ‘ humors in the blood,’ consumption, etc.
In the Far West pork is the principal meat con-
sumed by the farmers and laboring classes; ham
for breakfast, roast pig for dinner, and sausage
for supper, and ‘ hog all the time!’ And what
is the effect of this unclean diet upon their con-
stitution, health, etc. ? Look at many of their
wretched wives and children, with their rheumed
eyes and enlarged glands, sore ears, etc., for an
answer. While the Western farmer .works in
his fields in the open air, he is comparatively ex-
empt from its baneful influence, and it is chiefly
“upon the health of his wife and children that its
terrible effects may be seen. The late Doctor
Brainard, of Chicago, told the author a few years
since that it was estimated, by competent medi-
cal authority, that nearly % of the entire popu-
lation of the State were afllicted with scrofulous
sore eyes, with enlargement of the glands at the
edges of the lids, etc. This form of chronic
ophthalmia is very common throughout the en-
tire West.” Do not raise or eat pork, or have,
in the remotest way, any thing to do with the
disease-eng‘endering, body-corrupting, health-
destroying, unclean thing.

POTA TOES, To Boll—Put them into a
saucepan with scarcely sufficient water to cover
them. Directly the skins begin to break, lift
them from the fire, and as rapidly as possible
pour off every drop of the water. Then place a
coarse (we need not say clean) towel over them,
and return them to the fire again until they are
thorou hly done, and quite dry.

PO A TOES, T a Fry.-—To fry raw potatoes
properly, they should be pared, cut lengthwise
into slices an eighth of an inch in thickness,
dropped into a pan over the fire containing hot
beef drippings, turned frequently, nicely browned
all over, but never burned.

. P0 TA T0 5 C 0NES.—Mash boiled potatoes
till they are quite smooth, adding a little salt;
then knead out with flour, or barley-meal, to the
thickness required; toast on the griddle, prick-
ing with a fork to prevent them blistering.

POTATOES, MASHED.—-—Potatoes for
mashing should be as nicely boiled as if they
were intended to be eaten without further pre -
aration; only they should be dressed a litt e
more, though care should be taken not to let the

 

59

water get into them. The farinaceous part must
be pounded up, with a small quantity of the
freshest butter, the yelk of an egg well beaten,
and a little pepper and salt; add, if possible, a.
little cream, and put the mashed potatoes into
the oven to brown them.

POT A T 0 SNOW'.—-Pick out the whitest po-
tatoes, and put them on in cold water; when
they begin to crack, strain and put them in a
clean stew an before the fire till they are quite
dry, and all to pieces ; rub them through a
wire sieve on the dish they are to be sent up in,
and do not disturb them afterwards.

* PUDDING, A rrowroot.—Mix a tablespoon-
ful in cold milk, and pour it into boiling milk.
When cool, add the yelk of an egg well beaten
and a little sugar; put it into a basin, and boil
10 minutes.

PUDDING, BIRD’S—NESYI—Peel tart
apples, take out the cores, leaving the apples
whole. Make a custard of 8 well beaten eggs,
% a pint of cream, and 1% pints of scalded
milk, thickened with a heaping tablespoonful of
flour and a little salt, but no sugar. Bake 20
minutes. When the apples are tender the pud-
ding is done. Serve immediately with butter
and sugar stirred to a cream.

PUDDING, HALF—PA Y.—% of a lb. of
suet, % of a lb. of currants, % of a lb. of rais-
ins, % of a lb. of flour, % of a lb. of bread
crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of molasses, V2 :1 pint
of milk. Chop the suet finely; mix with it the
Currants, (which should be nicely washed and
dried,) the raisins, (which should be stoned,)
the flour, bread crumbs and molasses; moisten
with the milk, beat up the ingredients until all
are thoroughly mixed, put them into a buttered
basin, and boil the pudding for 3% hours.

PUDDING, Rice and A pp/t.—Pick over and
wash a teacupful of the best rice. Steam it un-
til tender in 2 cups of cold water; spread it over
a quart or 3 pints of good ripe apples, quartered;
pour over I or 2 cups of milk, if preferred, or
omit the milk and add a little water to the ap-
ples. Half a cup of white sugar may be sprink-
led over the apples, or sugar may be added at
the table, if preferred.

PUDDING, PLUM.—4 eggs, 12 crackers,
I pint of new milk, I teacup of butter, half a
lb. of sugar, I lb. of raisins, 1 lb. of prunes,
with a finely grated nutmeg. Bake about an
hour.

PUDDING, Palalo.—I lb. of potatoes, boiled
half a lb. of fresh butter, half a lb. of sugar, the
yelks of 6 eggs and the whites of 3, I gill ‘of
cream, I teaspoonful of mace, and I nutmeg.
Bake in puff-paste.

PUDDING, RICE,—-—Half a pint of rice, I
quart of milk, % of a pint of sugar, nutmeg or
cinnamon. Bake it slowly 2 hours. Tapioca
may be cooked in the same way, after soaking
in warm milk for an hour or two; and sago, at~
ter thoroughly washing and soaking over night,
is good in the same fashion. It is possible to
dilute the milk one-half and yet have the pud-
ding good, if care is exercised in soaking and
cooking.

RABBI TS.—Rabbits, when old, have the
haunches thick, the ears dry and tough, and the
claws blunt and ragged. A young hare has
claws smooth and sharp, ears that easily tear,
and a narrow cleft in the cheek.

RABBITS, To Cook—After skinning they

60

are thoroughly freed from blood with cold water.
They are left over night in weak salt water,
which is poured off in the morning, and new
salt water added, in which they stand until ready
for cooking. This water is made just sufficiently
salt to fit the flesh for eating. They are then
boiled until tender, when the meat is taken out,
and flour and butter, first rubbed together, is
stirred in and well peppered, and the whole
poured over toast, upon which the meat is laid.
A few sprigs of parsley added improve the taste
for many persons.

SAUCE, SHIRLEK—Iz good-sized, ripe

tomatoes; 2 bell peppers (large ones ;) 2 onions
(many omit these, and like the sauce better-—
consult your own taste.) Scald and skin the to-
matoes; chop the peppers and onions (if used)
very fine. Then add I cup of vinegar and M of
a cupl of sugar, and boil 2 hours; then put in
anot er cup of vinegar and boil I hour—or un-
til the mixture does not separate. Then stir in
1'teaspoonful of cloves, I dessert-spoonful of
cinnamon, and a teaspoonful of pimento (all-
spice.)
SAUCE, WORCESTERSHIRE.——All the
English sauces in popular use are founded upon
walnut catsup—that is of English walnuts—or
upon mushroom catsup. To make a catsup of
walnuts, the green shells are taken in these pro-
portions: 2 gals. walnut juice, 5 lbs. salt, mixed
and bruised, and allowed to lie a week; the
liquor is then pressed out, and to every gallon is
added 4 oz. of allspice, 3 oz. of ginger, and of
pepper and cloves 2 oz. each, all bruised. The
whole is then simmered for 30 minutes, and is
then set aside to clear. This is the catsup. To
make a sauce of this similar to Worcestershire,
take I gal. port wine, % gal. catsup, 2 lbs. an-
chovies, with their liquor, 8 lemons, 48 shallots
or small onions, scraped horse-radish 1% lbs.,
mace 1 oz., Cayenne 2 oz., mustard 8 oz. Boil
the whole gently, and then strain and bottle.

SA UCE, CHUTNEYn—Pare and core sour
apples. Then take of these apples, tomatoes,
brown sugar, and best raisins, each 8 oz. ; salt,
4 02.; red peppers (chilies) and powdered gin—
ger, 2 oz. each; garlic and small onions, 1 oz.
each. Pound the whole well, and add 3 quarts
of best cider or wine vinegar—or vinegar made
from beer—and 1 quart of lemon juice. Let it
stand in the vessel a month, but give it a good
shake daily. Then pour off the clear liquid and
bottle it. The residue may be used in aid of a
second batch of sauce, or, rubbed up into a very
smooth paste, may form a constituent of French
mustard.

* SHANK 7ELL Y.—Scour and brush very
clean 12 shanks of mutton, after soaking them
in water for 4 hours. Simmer them gently for
5 hours in 3 quarts of water, putting with them
3 blades of mace, 2 onions, 20 Jamaica and 30
black peppercorns, some sweet herbs, and a
crust of bread toasted brown; then strain off the
liquor and keep it in a cool place. This is well
adapted to delicate and debilitated persons.

SNIPES, ROAS T ED.—Do not draw them,
but spit on a bird-spit; flour and bastc well
with butter; prepare a slice of toasted bread,
lay it in a plate under the birds ; roast for about
30 minutes; place them on the toast; butter,
garnish with slices of lemon and parsley, and

serve.
SOUP, Stock fan—4 lbs. of shin~bone, and

 

DICTIONARY OF E VER Y‘DA Y WANTS.

1 lb. of lean neck of beef, 4 carrots, 1 turnip, I
stick of celery, 2 parsni s, 2 leeks, I onion, 6
cloves, 6 peppers, a bunc of sweet herbs, I gal.
of water. Cut the meat into slices, crack the
bone, and put it into an earthen pipkin that will
stand the fire, as this makes far better soup than
a metal saucepan ; add the water, and let it stew
slowly till the scum rises, and skim it clear;
stick the cloves into the onion and then add the
vegetables, and let the whole stew slowly till the
meat is in rags, which will be in about 8 hours.
It must simmer very slowly, for if it boils the
meat will not ield the gravy so well, and the.
stock will be thick in place of being clear. Af-
ter it is cold it should be strained through a cul-
lender, and kept in a covered pan or jar for

use.

SOUP, Coloring fan—As soups often require
coloring, it is well to prepare browning for that
purpose. 2 baked onions, well browned in the
oven and then chopped fine, make an excellent
coloring and flavoring. The shells of green
peas, dried in the oven until they are brown, but
not black, will also answer to brown soup, and
will keep all winter if hung in a perfectly dry

lace.

p SOUP, Prq/I Boyl’s.—Take the shank of
beef, or pieces of beef or veal left from a roast-
ing piece, and boil in water sufficient for the
soup ; if the meat has not been previously
cooked, it must be boiled 4 or 5 hours, or till it
will separate from the bone easily. ‘ Pare pota-
toes, 3 or 4 good sized onions, part of a yellow
turnip, and 2 or 3 carrots, if desired; slice, not
very thin, and boil in the soup after seasoning
with salt and epper to the taste. Boil the tur—
nips about I ’2 hours; the other vegetables will
cook sooner.

SOUP, Vegemble.——Pee1 and slice 6 large
onions, 6 otatoes, 6 carrots, and 4 turnips; fry
them in (g a lb. of butter, and pour on them 4
quarts o boiling water. Toast a crust of bread
as brown and hard as possible—but do not burn
it—and put it in, with some celery, sweet herbs,
white pepper and salt. Stew it all gently for 4
hours, and then strain it through a coarse cloth.
Have ready thinly sliced carrot, celery and a lit‘
tle turnip. Add them to your liking, and stew
them tender in the soup. If approved of, a
spoonful of tomato catsup may be added.

SOUP, Guméo.—-Fry a light brown 2 lbs. of
the round of beef with 4 sliced onions ; put into
the soup pot with 4 quarts of water, % a can 0
tomatoes or 12 fresh ones, 1 teacupful of sliced
okra and 1 green pepper; boil slowly 5 hours
and put through the cullender. Throw into the
tureen some sippets of fried bread and serve at

once.

SODA CAKES—Mix a teaspoonful of soda
and I of tartaric acid with % a teaspoonful of
salt; melt 5 oz. of butter in a large cupful of
milk; add these ingredients to 1 lb. of flour,(%
3. lb. of moist sugar, and 2 oz. of caraway see 5.
Work into a soft dough, and, if not wet enough,
add more milk; put into mince-pie pans to

e.

SPONGE—CAKE.—Beat 12 eggs as light as
possible, (for sponge and almond cake they re-
quire more beating than for anything. else ;) beat
1 lb. of loaf sugar, powdered and Sifted by de-
grees, into the eggs, continuing to beat some
time very hard after all the_ sugar IS 1n, (none
but loaf sugar will make light sponge-cake.)

COOKING AND BAKING.

Stir in gradually a teaspoonful of powdered,
mixed cinnamon and mace, a grated nutmeg, and
I2 drops of lemon essence; lastly, by degrees,
put in 10 oz. of sifted flour, dried near the_ fire,
stirring round the mixture very slowly With a
knife. If the flour is stirred too hard the cake
will be tough. It must be done gently and
lightly, so that the top of the mixture Will be
covered with bubbles. As soon as the flour 15
all in begin to bake, as setting will hurt it. Put
it in small tins, well buttered, or in I large tin
pan. The thinner the pans the better the sponge-
cake. Fill the small tins about half full. Grate
loaf sugar over the top of each before setting it
in the oven.

S UGA R, T a Clarify—Take a little gum Ara-
bic and a little isinglass dissolved in hot water ;

our it, when dissolved, into your sugar when
boiling, and it will clear all the sediment to the
top of the pan, which you must skim off as often
as it rises. Loaf sugar may be cleared with the
white of an egg, isinglass or gum Arabic. A
little of either will suffice.

SUET DUMPLINGS.—To I quart of flour
add half a lb. of beef suet broken in very small
pieces, I cupful of peach marmalade, a little salt,
I teaspoonful of soda. Knead it With butter-
milk, and make the dough out into dumplings
larger than biscuit, and boil them till done.
Serve up while hot with a rich sauce.

SUM/WEI? SQUASIT, To Cook—Take them
before the seeds begin to‘ harden, wash or wipe
them clean, remove the stem and cut in pieces ;
boil till quite soft; pour off all the water you
can; mash as fine as possible, after which put
it into a clean cloth or bag, and squeeze out the
rest of the water. Turn out into a dish, and
season with salt, butter, or thick, sweet cream,
and pepper, to your taste.

TAFFEE.—Put into a pan, or some shallow

vessel, a M of 3. lb. of butter and I lb. of brown
sugar; set it upon the stove, and stir together
for I5 minutes, or until a little of the mixture
dropped into a basin of water wrll break clean
between the teeth without sticking to them.
Any flavoring that is desired—as lemon, pine-
apple, or vanilla—4should be added Just before
the cooking is completed. The taffee, when
done, should be poured into a shallow dish,
which is buttered on the bottom and edges. By
drawing a knife across it when partially cool, it
can easily be broken into squares. Molasses
may be used instead of sugar, but it is not so
brittle.
, * TAPIOCA PUDDING—4 large table-
spoonfuls of tapioca soaked over night in I quart
of new milk; grated rind of I lemon; I tumbler
of sweet milk; one-half of a tumbler of wine,
with sugar enough in it to fill the glass. Stir
the tapioca and milk over the fire until It comes
to a boil, before adding any of the other ingre-
dients; 4 eggs, beaten separately, and'added
just before baking; it bakes in about 5 minutes.
To be eaten cold.

T EA , [{ow to Maker—The best way to make
tea is by pouring a little boiling water on the
leaves, and after they have become thoroughly
saturated, whichrequires I to 2 minutes, by
pouring it off again. This water contains most
of the tannic acid, and the acrid and disagree-
able principles of the tea, without depriving it of
its flavor or strength. Now pour suffic1ent hot
Water over the leaves, and let them infuse for 10

 

6!

or I5 minutes, when the beverage will be ready
for use. This scalding with hot water is quite
necessary with inferior tea, in which case boiling
the leaves must especially be avoided.

TEA, Healt/zy Substitute: jinn—The first
leaves of the currant bush dried on tin cannot be
known from green tea. Good meadow hay—
fourth ounce to each person—infused in boiling
water, is an aromatic, anti- bilious, nourishing
and soothing narcotic to the nerves at all times;
it promotes digestion and creates appetite. The
unfolded petals of the red rose, dried, 5 parts;
rosemary leaves, I part, and balm leaves, 2
parts, mixed, is also excellent. This far excels
any imported tea, and sells at 75 cents per 1b.,
and I lb. will last as long as 2 lbs. of common
tea. The young leaves of the pea plant, or the
young leaves and flowers of the common straw-
berry, dried in the air out of the sun, furnish de-
lectable draughts when infused and taken with
cream and sugar like tea.

TEA —KE 7 ‘T LES, To Prevent z‘lzz Formation
Qf Rmt in.——Keep an oyster-shell in your tea-
kettle. By attracting the stony particles to it-
self, it will prevent the formation of a crust.

* TEA, BEER—Take IV; lbs. of the best
steak; cut it into very small pieces, and put
them into an earthenware jar, with enough cold
water to c0ver the meat; tie the top of the jar
on, and put it into a saucepan full of hot water ;
place the saucepan on the fire, and allow it to
boil for 3 hours, by which time all the goodness
of the meat will be extracted. This is the pure
essence of beef.

* T 0.4 S T — WA T [ER—Cut a slice off a stale
loaf, about twice as thick as toast is usually cut.
Toast it carefully until it is deep brown all over,
but not blackened or burnt; lay it in the bottom
of a jug with a thin slice of lemon-peel; fill the
jug with boiling water, and let it stand till cold.

T 011114 T OES, BROWNED.—-Take large,
round tomatoes and halve them; place them, the
skin side down, in a frying-pan in which a very
small quantity of butter has been previously
melted ; sprinkle themwvith salt and pepper and
dredge them well with flour; place the pan on a
hot part of the fire, and let them brown thor-
oughly ; then stir them and let them brown
again, and so on until they are quite done.
They lose their acidity, and the flavor is superior
to stewed tomatoes.

TOM/1 T 0 CA T S UP.-—Scald ripe tomatoes,
and remove the skin. Let them stand a day,
covered with salt; strain thoroughly to remove
the seeds. To ever 2 quarts of the liquor add
3 oz. of cloves, 2 0. black pepper, 2 grated nut-
megs, a little Ca enne pepper, and salt. Boil
all together for fiyan hour, then let the mixture
cool and settle; add a pint of the best cider vin-
egar; bottle, cork tightly, and seal. Keep in a
cool place.

TOMA TO F]?! T T ERS.——Take I quart of
stewed tomatoes; stir in I egg, 1 small teaspoon—
ful of saleratus or soda, and flour enough to
make it of the consistency of pancakes.

TOMA 2 O MARMALADE.—Take fine and
ripe tomatoes, cut them in halves, and squeeze
out the juice. Put them in a preserving pan,
with a few peach-leaves, a clove of garlic, some
slices of onion or shalot, and a bundle of pars-
ley. Stew them until they are sufficiently done.
pulp them through a sieve, and boil them down
like other marmalade, adding salt. Put them

6a

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

into small jars, pepper the tops, and pour clari-
fied butter over. Eat it with fish, etc., or stir
the contents of a small pot into the gravy of
stews or fricassees.

TOMA T0 PUDDING—Pour boiling water
on tomatoes, remove the skins, put in the bottom
of the pudding~dish some bread crumbs, then
slice the tomatoes on them, season with sugar,
butter, pepper, and salt; add some more bread
crumbs, then the sliced tomatoes and seasoning,
and if the tomato does not wet the bread crumbs
add a little water; then, for a small pudding,
beat up 2 eggs and pour over the top. Bake
about 20 minutes.

TOMA T0 SOUP.—VVash, scrape, and cut
small the red part of 3 large carrots, 3 heads of
celery, 4 large onions, and 2 large turnips; ‘put
them into a saucepan, with a tablespoonful of
butter and % a lb. of lean new ham; let them
stew very gently for an hour; then add 3 quarts
of brown gravy soup and some whole black ep-

r, with 8 or 10 ripe tomatoes; let it boi an

our and a half, and pulp it through a sieve;
serve it with fried bread cut in dice.

TURKEY, To C/zoore.-—In choosing aturkey,
the age of the bird is the chief point to be at-
tended to. An old turkey has rough and red-
dish legs ; a young one smooth and black.
Fresh killed, the eyes are full and clear, and the
feet moist. When it has been kept too long, the
parts about the vent begin to wear a greenish,
discolored appearance.

TURKEY, Stufifng fan—Take some bread
crumbs and turn on just enough hot water to
soften them ; put in a piece of butter, not melted,
the size of a hen’s egg, and a spoonful of pul-
verized sage, a teaspoonful of ground pepper,
and a teaspoonful of salt; there may be some of
the bread crumbs that need to be chopped ; then
mix thoroughly and stuff your turkey.

TURKEY, To Bata— Let the turkey be
picked, singed, and washed and wiped dry, in-
side and out; joint onl to the first joints in the
legs, and cut some 0 the neck off if it is all
bloody; then cut 12 51an gashes in the fleshy
parts of the turkey, on the outside and in differ-
ent parts of the turkey, and press I whole oys-
ter in each gash; then close the skin and flesh
over each oyster as tightly as possible; then stuff
your turkey, leaving a little room for the stuffing
to swell. When stuffed sew it up with a stout
cord, rub over lightly with flour, sprinkle a little
salt and pepper on it, put some water in your
dripping pan, put in your turkey, baste it often
with its own drippings; bake to a nice brown;
thicken your gravy with a little flour and water.
Be sure and keep the bottom of the dripping
pan covered with water, or it will burn the gravy
and make it bitter.

T URNIPS, T o Cook—Full- grown turnips
will take about 1% hours’ gentle boiling; if you
slice them, which most people do, the will be
done sooner; try them with afork; w en ten-
der, take them up and lay them on a sieve till
the water is thoroughly drained from them.
Send them up whole ; do not slice them.

VEAL, T o Roasts—Season a breast of veal
with pepper and salt; skewer the sweet-bread
firmly in its place; flour the meat and roast it
slowly for about 4 hours before a moderate fire;
it should be of a fine brown, but not dry ; baste
it with butter. When done, put the grav in a
stew-pan, add a piece of butter rolled in rown

 

flour, and if there should -not be quite enough \

gravy, add a little more water, with pepper and
salt to taste. The gravy should be brown.

VEAL C U T LE TS, Broiled.—Cut the pieces
of veal of an equal thickness; dip them into
beaten egg, and sprinkle them with chopped
herbs, parsley, mushrooms, grated lemon-peel,
and crumbs of bread; broil them to a fine brown
color. Make a sauce of butter and flour melted
brown, moistened with veal gravy; put into it
some button mushrooms, and pour the sauce hot
over the cutlets.

VEAL, Stewart—Divide into portions part 01
a breast of veal, and fry it of a nice brown in
butter. Put into a stew-pan a quart of green
peas, together with onions and parsley. When
they are tender add some veal gravy, and put in
the pieces of veal already fried, and stew the
whole gently. Season with salt, pepper, and a
teaspoonful of powdered sugar.

VEAL CHOPS, Breaded.~—-Take 6 or 7
handsomely cut chops, season them with salt
and pepper, and put them into melted butter.
When sufficiently soaked put them into beaten
eggs, take them out, and roll each separately in
bread crumbs ; make the chops as round as you
can with your hand, and lay them in a dish.
When all are breaded, broil them slowly over a

moderate fire, that the bread may not be too

highly colored. Serve with clear gravy.

* VEAL SHERBE T.—Wash a good knuckle
of veal, and put it to boil in 9 pints of water.
Let it boil until reduced to 2 pints. Run it
through a fine sieve, and when nearly cold, add
to it 2' pints of clarified syrup, and 1% pints or
clear lemon juice. Mix well, and serve as re-
freshment. It will be found very nutritious, as
well as pleasant.

* VEAL BROTH—Put a knuckle of aleg
or shoulder of veal, an old fowl, and 4 shank
bones of mutton, 3 blades of mace, Io pepper-
corns, an onion, a piece of bread, and 3, quarts
of water into a soup pot; cover it close, and af-
ter it has boiled up and been skimmed, strain,
take off the fat, and add salt.

VEGETABLES, T o Bod—Vegetables must
be carefully cleaned from insects and very nicely
washed. Boil them in plenty of water, the wa-
ter to be boiling before they are put into it, and
they should be drained the moment they are
cooked enough. If over-boiled they will lose
their beauty and crispness. Bad cooks some.
times dress them with meat, which is wrong—
except carrots or cabbage with boiling beef.

In order to boil vegetables of a good green
color, take care that the water boils when they
are put in. Make them boil very fast. Do not
cover, but watch them, and if the water has not
slackened, you may be sure they are done. when
they begin to sink. Then take them out imme-
diately, or the color will change. Hard water,
especially if chalybeate, spoils the color of such
vegetables as should be green. To botl them
green in hard water, puta teaspoonful of carbon-
ate of soda or potash into the water when b011-
ing, before the vegetables are put in.

VEGETABLES, To Clean of [nutm—
Make a strong brine of 1% lbs. of salt t0} gal.
of water; into this place the vegetables With the
stalk ends uppermost for 2 or 3 hours; this wrll
destroyall the insects which cluster in the leaves,
and they will fall out and sink to the bottom of
the water.

 

DRUGGIST AND CHEMIST! 63
VEGETABLE 0YSTERS.—Boil salsify, ahot spit. It must be browned upon the out-
or vegetable oysters, till the skin will come of? side without being sodden within. To have it

easily. When you have taken it off neatly, cut
the root in hits as long as an oyster; put into a
deep vegetable dish a layer of crumbs of bread
or crackers, a little salt, pepper and nutmeg, and
acovering of butter as thin as you can cut it;
then a layer of oysters, and so on till your dish
is filled, having crumbs at the top. Fill the
dish with water, and brown them handsomely.
They can remain 2 hours in the oven without
injury, or be eaten in 5 an hour,

VENISOZV, To Roam—Spit a haunch of
venison, and butter well 4 sheets of paper, 2 of
which put on the haunch. Then make a paste
of flour, butter, and water; roll it out half as
big as the haunch, and put it over the fat part ;
then put the other 2 sheets of paper on, and tie
them with pack-thread. Lay it to a brisk fire,

‘and baste it well all the time of roasting. If a
large haunch of 24 lbs., it will take 3% hours ;
smaller in proportion.

VENISO/V S T EAKS‘, Broiled—Wash them
and wipe them dry. Put them on the gridiron,
over a clear fire, and broil them; then season
with salt and pepper, and baste them with but-
ter. Serve with currant jelly.

IVA T ER, To Make Cold.—Water may be
kept nearly as cold as ice water, by surrounding
the pitcher or jar with several folds of coarse
cotton, to be kept constantly wet. The evapo-
ration carries ofi‘ the heat inside, and it will be
reduced almostto freezing. In India and other
tropical regions this is common.

WA TER, To Softer: Harri—A % ‘62. of
uick-lime dipped in 9 quarts of water, and the
ear solution put into a barrel of hard water;

the whole will be soft water as it settles.

WATER, To Purif .—A tablespoonful of
powdered alum sprinkl1e/d into a hogshead of
water, and stirred, will in the course of a few
hours precipitate to the bottom all the impure
particles, and leave the water as clean and pure
as spring water. 4 gallons would need but a
teaspoonful.

WILD DUCKS, T o Roam—For roasting a
wild duck you must have a clear, brisk fire and

 

well frothed and full of gravy is the nicety.
Prepare the fire by stirring and raking it just be-
fore the bird is laid down, and 15 or 20 minutes
will do it in the fashionable way; but if you like
it a little more done allow it a few minutes long-
er; if it is too much done it will lose much of its
flavor.

YEASYl—I. In 2 quarts of water let 2 oz.
of hops boil for % an hour; strain the liquor,
and let it stand in a wide earthenware bowl.
When lukewarm add a small quantity of salt—
say % handful—and % of a lb. of sugar. Take
some of the liquor, and well mix up in it % a
lb. of the best flour, beating this up thoroughly
in the whole afterwards. The next day but one
put in 1% lbs. of boiled and mashed potatoes;
let it stand one more day, after which it may be
bottled for use. It should be kept near the fire
while making, so as to keep it about the tem-
perature of new milk, and it should also be fre-
quently stirred during the process of making.
When bottled, it should be kept in a cool place.
—2. Take 12 large potatoes, a pint of hops
boiled in a gallon of water; mash the potatoes
well, add a teacupful of sugar and I of salt, and
I pint of yeast. Let it rise a day, then put it in
a jug and cork it loosely; put about % a pint to
a gallon of bread-raising.-—3. Boil I 1b. of good
flour, a X of 2. lb. of brown sugar, and a little
salt, in 2 gallons of water for an hour. When
milk warm, bottle it and cork close. It will be
fit for use in 24 hours. I pint of the yeast will
make 18 lbs. of bread.

YEAST CAA’ES.——Put into 3 pints of water
a handful of hops, and nearly a quart of pared
potatoes, cut into small pieces. Boil for % an
hour, and strain, while scalding hot, into suffi-
cient flour to make a stiff batter. Stir it well,
adding I tablespoonful of fresh yeast, and set in
a warm place to rise. When light, mix it stiff
with Indian meal, roll out thin, and cut into
round cakes or square pieces about 2% inches
in diameter. Dry these thoroughly, and keep
them in a bag in a dry place. They will remain
good for months.

DRUGGIST AND CH EMIST.

ACID, CITRIC.-—]uice of lemons, 4 pints;
prepared chalk, 4% oz. ; diluted sulphuric acid,
27% oz. ; distilled water, 2 pints. Heat the
juice, add the chalk; let the powder subside, and

our off the liquor. Wash the citrate of lime
requently with warm water, pour on it the sul-
phuric acid and water, and boil for 15 minutes;
express the liquor, filter it, and evaporate with
a gentle heat; then set it by to crystallize. To
obtain the crystals pure, dissolve them a second
and third time, filter each solution, evaporate,
and set it aside to crystallize.

ADHESIVE CLOTH (for Surgeon:.)—5
oz. of gum Arabic are dissolved in half a pint at
hot water, and glycerine is added to give the
mixture 3 syrupy consistence. The muslin or

 

linen cloth, spread out on a frame, is first coated
with thin gum water, and, when nearly dry,
with the glycerine mixture as rapidly as possible.
Several coats are generally required. When
needed for use, it is cut into strips and moistened
with water.

ARTIFICIAL SKIZV, flzr 8mm, Bruiser,
A brarz'om, eta—(Proof against water.) Take
gun cotton and Venice turpentine, equal parts of
each, and dissolve them in 20 times as much sul-
phuric ether, dissolving the cotton first, then ad-
ding the turpentine; keep it corked tightly.
Water does not affect it, hence its value for
cracked nipples, chapped hands, surface bruises,
and things of a like nature.

ARSENIC, T::tfor.—I. Dr. Baumann rec-

64 DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

ommends, for detecting small quantities of ar-
senic, the suspected body to be triturated with
from 3 to 6 times its amount of iron filings,
which have been exposed to a red heat, and are
known to be free from arsenic, and heating the
mixture on charcoal in the reducing flame of the
blow-pipe. Even with the smallest quantity of
arsenic, the odor, at least, is disengaged—2. A
new and very delicate test for arsenic has been
discovered by Bettendorff. Its sensibility is so
great that it is said to be capable of detecting I
part of arsenic in a million parts of solution, and
the presence of antimony does not affect it. In
order to apply this test, the arsenious 0r arsenic
liquid is mixed with aqueous hydric-chloride
(hydrochloric acid) until fumes are apparent;
thereupon stannous chloride is added, which
produces a bassrc precipitate containing the
greater part of the arsenic as metal, mixed with
stannic oxide.

AL TERA TIVE (for Bari/filing the Blood.)
—Sarsaparilla, 12 02.; guaiacum shavings,
oz. ; winter-green leaf, 4 02. ; sassafras-root
bark, 4 02. ; elder flowers, 4 02. ; yellow dock,
3 02.; burdock root, 4 02.; dandelion root, 6
02. ; bitter-sweet root, 2 oz. ; all bruised; place
these ingredients in a suitable vessel, and add I
pint of alcohol, with water sufficient to cover the
whole handsomely. Set them in a moderately
warm place for 3 or 4 days, pour off I pint 'of
the tincture and set it aside, until you add wa-
ter to the ingredients and boil to obtain the full
strength; pour off, add more water, and boil
again ; then boil the 2 waters down to I quart;
strain, and add the liquor first poured off, and
add 2% lbs. crushed or coffee sugar, and simmer
to form a syrup ; when cool bottle and seal up
for use. DOSE—I t0 2 tablespoonfuls, according
to the age and strength of the patient, y, an
hour before meals and at bed-time.

ALTERA TIVE, RHEUMA TlC.—Colchi-
cum seed and black cohosh root, of each half an
02., the root to be bruised; best rye whisky, I
pint; put it together, and let it stand for 3 or 4
days. Dose—From I teaspoonful to a table-
spoonful 3 times daily before meals.

’ ANOD YNE, [IOFFMAN’S—Of sulphuric
ether, 2 02. ; alcohol, 4 02., and etherial oil %
of 2. dr. ; mix. DOSE—From one-half to 2 tea-
5 oonfuls, (one-half to 2 drachms,) according to

e urgency or ain for which it is given.

APERIEN , MA GNESIAN EFFER—
VESCING.——Sulphate of magnesia, I2 02. ;
tartaric acid, 8 02.; calcined magnesia, 3 02.;
pure sugar, 18 02. ; bicarbonate of soda, 6 oz. ;
essence of lemon, 30 drops. Dry the powders
separately, mix and sieve them, then bottle sc-
curely. 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls in water is sufficient
for a dose.

ASTHMA REMEDIES—I. Elecampane
angelica, comfrey and spikenard roots, with hoar-
hound tops, of each I 02.; bruise and steep in
I pint of honey. DOSE—I tablespoonful, taken
hot every few minutes until relief is obtained;
then several times daily until a cure is effected.

'——2. Oil of tar, I dr. ; tincture of veratrum vir-

ide, 2 dr. ; simple syrup, 2 dr. ; mix. DOSE—
for adults, 15 drops 3 0r 4 times daily. Iodide
of potassium has cured a bad case of asthma by
taking 5 gr. doses 3 times daily. Take half an
02. and put into a phial, and add 32 teas oonfuls
of water; then I teaspoonful of it wi contain
the 5 grs., which is to be put into half a gill

more of water, and is to he drank. a. short
time before each meal.

BA LSAIII, GL YCEIUNE.—White wax and
spermaceti, of each I 02.; almond oil, 8 02.;
glycerine, 2 02. ; otto of roses, I5 drops.

BALSAM 0F IIONE K—Balsam 0f tolu, I
02.; gum storax, I dr. ; purified opium, I6 gr. ;
best honey, 4 02.; rectified spirits of wine, I
pint. Digest them together for a week, and
strain the liquor. This prescription is of great
use in colds and habitual coughs, unaccompanied
by feverish symptoms. The dose is from I to 3
teaspoonfuls occasionally.

BALSAM, INDIAN—Clear, pale resin, 3
lbs., and melt it, adding spirits of turpentine, I
quart; balsam 0f tolu, I 02.; balsam of fir, 4
02. ; oil of hemlock, origanum, with Venice
turpentine, of each, I 02.; strained honey, 4 02.
Mix well and bottle. DOSE—6 to 12 drops,_ for
an adult; for a child of 6 years, 3 to 5 drops on
a little sugar. The dose can be varied according

6 to the ability of the stomach to bear it, and the

necessity of the case. This is a valuable prepa-
tion for coughs or internal pains.

'BALSAM, M] T CHELL’S, for Bruises,
Cuts, ete.—Fenugreek seed and gum myrrh, of
each, about I 02.; sassafras-root bark, a good
handful; alcohol, I quart. Put all into a bottle,
and keep warm for 5 da 5.

BALSAIPI OF T OLIL—Take of balsam of
tolu, 6 02. ; white resin, 16 02. ; sheep’s suet,
1% 02., or sufficient to make it soft enough, ac-
cording to climate or season. .

BALI}! 0F GILEAD.—The genuine balsam
of Me'bca is the juice of the Amyris Gileadensis,
and is obtained by cutting the bark of the tree
with an axe. It is both scarce and costly, and
none of it ever reaches this country as an article
of commerce. That which is exported is ob-
tained by boiling the twigs of the balsam tree in
water. The real balsam of Mecca is of a clear
gold color, and possesses a penetrating and deli,
cate fragrance, and a sharp, bitter, astringent
taste. A drop let fall on the surface of hot wa-
ter spreads itself over the whole surface, like a
thin film of oil, and again contracts on the water
cooling. It dissolves completely in fatty and es-
sential oils, which then assume the peculiar fla.
vor 0f the balsam.

BALI]! 0F GILEAD, Irizitatz'on.——Ben20in,
I lb. ; yellow resin, I4 lbs. Melt, and add oil
of lemon, 4 02.; oil of rosemary, 4 02. ; oil of
caraway, 4 02.; spirit to reduce it to a proper
consistence.

BALM OFA THOUSAND FLOWERS.
—De0dori2ed alcohol, I pint; nice, white bar-
soap, 4 02.; shave the soap when ut in; stand
in a warm place until dissolved ; t en add oil of
citronella, I dr. ; oils of neroli and rosemary, of
each % a dr.

BALI” 0F BEA U T K—Pure soft water, I
quart; pulverized castile soap, 4 02. ; emulsion
of bitter almonds, 6 oz. ; rose and orange flower
water, of each 8 oz. ; tincture 0f benzoin, 2 dr. ;
borax, I dr. ; to use, apply on a cotton or linen
cloth to the face, etc. .

BALLS for Removing Grease and Pam!
Spots from Clot/z, eta—Fuller’s earth, 30 parts;
French chalk, I part; yellow soap, 20 parts;
pearlash, 15 parts. Make into a paste vnth
spirits of turpentine, and give it a slight color
with a little yellow ochre, and then cut it into

 

cakes. This form, omitting the French chalk. is

DRUGGIST AND CHEMIST.

that which is so very generally sold about the
streets.

BALLS, CAMPHOR (fir Chapped Hands,
ttc.)-I. Spermaceti, white wax, each % 02.;
almond oil, I 02.; alkanet to color. Melt,
strain, and add 3 drs. of powdered camphor.—
2. Lard, wax, and almond or olive oil, equal
parts, with a little powdered camphor. Used to
rub over the hands after washing to prevent

cha s.

BPALMON Y HERB.—This is a tonic and
laxative, and is employed to good advantage in
jaundice, dyspepsia, diseases of the liver, loss of
appetite, and general debility.

BANDOLINE, A Compoundfar Slg'flning
the Hair.——I. Quince seed, % of a teaspoonful;
linseed, I tablespoonful, and a pinch of white
mustard seed. Boil in a pint of soft water to
-half,a pint, and scent with oil of almonds—2.
Isinglass, I 02.; water, I pint; proof spirit, 2
fluid oz. Dissolve the isinglass in the water by
heat, add the spirit, and scent with almond oil.
—3. Tragacanth, I 02.; rose water, I pint.
Bruise the gum, digest for 3 days, and strain.

Any of these may be colored with cochineal,
if required.

BANDOLHVE, ROSE.—Gum tragacanth,
6 02.; rose-water, I gal.; otto of roses, % of
an oz. Steep. the gum in the water for a day or
so. As it swells and forms a thick, gelatinous
mass, it must from time to time be well agitated.
After about 48 liours' maceration it is to be
squeezed through a coarse, clean linen cloth, and
again left to stand for a few days, and passed
through alinen cloth a second time, to insure
uniformity of consistency; when this is the case
the otto of rose is to be thoroughly incorporated
with it. -

BARK: AMERICAN POPLAR.~—A tea
made of this bark is ver useful in cases of de-
bility, especially those 0 long standing, and also
for feeble digestion, worms, and a diseased con~
dition of the urinary organs. Consumptive
people have received great benefit from its em-
ployment.

BAR/f, WILD CHERRK—The bark of
the tree and kernels of the cherry contain a
great deal of prussic acid, to which their medici-
nal virtues are to be attributed. The bark is a
very powerful antiseptic, and is very useful in
the preparation of dentrifice. It is also useful
in diarrhea, jaundice, and for worms. Gener-
ally taken in infusion, an 02. of the powder to a
quart of boiling water. The cherries also are
used in medicine, and may be employed with or
without peach-kernels. They are useful as a
tonic and a remedy for indigestion, and particu-
larly as a restorative for convalescents from
dysentery. Made in a syrup, or bruised and
given in decoction.

BARKS, To Preszrw.—Barks may be con-
veniently preserved by lacing them in coarse
brown paper bags, and anging them up, in a
dry and airy situation, until all extraneous mois-
ture has evaporated.

BA Y RUM—This is a spirit distilled over
the leaves of Myrciacris, and perhaps, aiso some
other species of the same genus. The trees
grow in the West India Islands, and the genu-
ine bay rum is imported from there into this
country. It is made elsewhere, sometimes, by
taking the tincture of bay leaves, 5 02., oil of
bay, 1 dr., bicarbonate of ammonia, I 02., bo-

05

tax, 1 oz., rose-water, 2 pints. Mix and filter
carefully.

BEARS’ GREASE (A1tz'ficz'al.)——Bears’
grease is imitated by a mixture of prepared veai
suet and beef marrow. It may be scented at
pleasure.

BITTERS, AGUE.—Quinine, 4o grs. ; cap-
sicum, 20 grs. ; cloves, % oz. ; cream of tartar,
I 02.; whiskey, I pint; mix. Doss—r to 2
tablespoonfuls every 2 hours, beginning 8 hours
before the chill comes on, and 3 times daily.

B] T T ERS, Cat/zartic and T om'c.—Best rye
whiskey, and water, of each I quart; best un.
ground Peruvian bark, colombo root and prickly
ash berries, of each 2 02.; prickly ash, black
cherry and poplar barks, of each I 02.; poke~
root, mandrake-root, and cloves, of each % an
02; all to be the dry articles, and all to be pul~
verized before they are put into the spirits; they
should be well shaken every day for a week, by
which time the bitters will be ready for use.
DOSE—I to 2 tablespoonfuls at morning and
evening meals.

BITTERS, BLACKBERRK—The berry,
when ripe, is known to be pleasant and whole-
some, and 2 handsful of the root, in 3 pints of
milk or water, boiled down to a quart, in the
dose of a teacupful every 2 or 3 hours, has often
cured diarrhea and dysentery when other things
have failed.

BLADDERS, PREPARED.—Cut off the
loose fat, wash in a weak solution of chloride of
lime, and rinse in clear water. When drying,
blow them tight and keep them expanded. Used
to tie over jars, pots, etc., and to contain pow- ~
dered pigments.

BLISTERING TISSUE.-——A solution of
cantharides is made in alcohol, acetic acid, or
ether, strained and evaporated to an extract,
which is then mixed with twice its weight of
wax, and spread on silk or thin paper.

BLOOD, T at: fan—Iodide of potassium
dissolves traces of blood, even from clothing
which has been thoroughly washed, but haemin
crystals cannot be obtained from the solution.

Gunning has discovered, in the acetate of zinc;
a reagent that precipitates the slightest traces of
the coloring matter of blood from solutions, even
where the liquids are so dilute as to be colorless.
Blood, washed from the hands in a pail of water,
can readily be detected in this way. The floc-
culent precipitate, thrown down by the acetate of
zinc, must be washed by decantation, and finally
collected on a watch glass, and allowed to dry,
when the microscope will readily reveal haemin
crystals, if any blood be present. This test has
been repeatedly tried, with entire success.

A lately discovered method consists in the ap-
plication of tincture of guaiacum and ozonized
ether, which produces a beautiful blue tint with
blood or blood-stains. This test is excessively
delicate. Ozonized ether is merely a solution of
per-oxide of hydrogen in ether.

BLOOM 0F ROSES—Strong liquid am-
monia, % oz. ; finest carmine, % 02.; rose-
water, 1 pint; triple extract of roses, % 02.
Put the carmine into a pint bottle, and pour the
ammonia on it; allow them to remain together,
with occasional a 'tation, for 2 days; then add"
the rose-water an esprit, and well mix. Place
the bottle in a quiet situation for a week; an
precipitate of impurities from the carmine wil

 

subside; the supernatant Bloom of roses is then

5

66

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

to be bottled. If the carmine was perfectl
pure there would be no precipitate; nearly all
the carmine purchased from the makers is more
or less sophisticated, its enormous price being a
premium to its adulteration.

BLOO/ll, ALAIOND.—Boil I oz. of Brazil
wood in 3 pints of water for 15 minutes; strain,
add % of an 02. of isinglass, % of an 02. of
cochineal, I 02. of alum, and % of an oz. of bo-
rax ; dissolve by heat, and strain.

BL UE FLA G.—Blue flag grows by the brink
of rivers, and in swamps and meadows. It
blossoms in July, and has blue flowers, varie~
gated with white, yellow, and urple. A tea~
spoonful of the juice, diluted With water, is an
active cathartic, and the dccoction for constant
drink is used in venereal complaints.

BROAIIDE 0F POTASSIUM, itr Prepara-
tion.—The commercial bromide of potassium is
very rarely pure. The impurities consist prin-
cipally of chloride of potassium, (up to 30 p. c.,)
sulphate of potassa, (up to 3.3 p. c,) free or car-
bonate of alkali, (up to 4 per c.,) iodide of po-
tassium, and bromate of potassa. It is impos-
sible to produce from such a mixture, by simple
operations, a perfectly pure article, and the puri-
fication of the bromine employed to this end is
rendered necessary. This is effected best by
shaking the commercial bromine with water and
a little ether.

The chloride of bromine, being easily soluble
in ether, is dissolved, and, by the agency of the
water, converted into hydrochloric acid and bro-
mine. By washing in this way several times,
each time removing the aqueous solution, chlo-
rine may be separated entirely from the bromine.
Shaking then the resulting bromine with a little
starch paste, which removes the iodine, and dis-
tilling it, an article is obtained free from chlorine
and iodine. This is dissolved in a solution of
caustic potassa, free from sulphuric and- hydro-
chloric acid, and the resulting liquor, a mixture
of bromide of potassium with bromate of potas-
sa, evaporated to dryness and ignited. The mass
is then dissolved in water and crystallized, when
it will be of sufficient purity to serve for all med-
ical purposes.

Robierre and Herbelin recommend a method
by which bromide of potassium may be freed
from iodine. They dissolve it to this end in
ver little water, add gradually bromine water,
an heat the solution to boiling. After each ad-
dition of bromine water, the fluid is tested with
starch aper, which will indicate the disappear-
ance otPthe iodine by not turning blue. An ex-
cess of bromine must be avoided. Bromine will
diSplace iodine in all its compounds. The solu-
tion is then evaporated to dryness, and the dry
mass recrystallized.

BROIVAI’S BRONCHIAL TROCIIES.—
Take I lb. of pulverized extract of licorice, 1%
lbs. of pulverized sugar, 4 oz. of pulverized cu~
bebs, 4 oz. of pulverized gum Arabic, and I oz.
of pulverized extract of conium. Mix.

BURDOCK—Burdock operates gently on
the bowels, sweetens the blood, promotes sweat
and urine, and is used in rheumatic, scorbutic,
scrofula, and venereal diseases. DOSE—Of the
juice, a wine-glassful; of the decoction, half a
pint 3 times a day.

CADA VER, Praewatian ofI—According to
M. Devergie, of the Paris School of Practical
Anatomy, a mixture of 3 parts of glycerine and

 

I of carbolic acid, injected into dead bodies, will
prevent any unpleasant odor emanating lrom
them for several months. '

CAMPHOR, T o Pul'I/erize.——Take camphor,
2 02.; alcohol, 3 02.; water suihcient; carbo-
nate of magnesia, I drachm. Dissolve the cam-
phor in the alcohol with the aid of heat and fil-
ter. Rub the magnesiae carbonas with water,
mix with the solution, and catch on a filter; dry
the mass before the sun, and pass through a

.sieve N o. 60

CA/WPHOR ICE.—Spermaceti, 1% oz. ;
gum camphor, % of an oz. ; oil of sweet
almonds, 4 teaspoonsful ; set on the stove in an
earthenware dish till dissolved; heat just enough
to dissolve it. While warm pour into small
moulds, then paper, and put into tinfoil; used
for chaps on hands and lips.

CARBON/1 TE 0F Ill/1 GNESIA.—Sul-
phate of magnesia, 4 lbs.; carbonate of soda, 4
lbs. 9 02.; boiling, distilled water, 4 gallons.
Dissolve separately the carbonate and sulphate
in 2 gallons of water ; filter and mix. Boil and
stir for 2 hours, adding distilled water as re-
quired; pour off the fluid, wash the powder
with boiling, distilled water, and dry it.

CARA/INA TIVE, DALE Y ’S.—Carbonate
ot magnesia, 2 scruples; oil of peppermint, I
drop; oil of nutmeg, 2 drops; oil of aniseed, 3
drops; tincture of castor, 30 drops; tincture of
assafoetida, I 5 drops; tincture of opium, 5
drops; spirit of pennyroyal, 15 drops; com-
pound tincture of cardamons, 30 drops; pep-
permint water, 2 oz. Mix.

CA1t’flI/NE.-—I lb. of powdered cochineal is
boiled in a tin or enameled vessel for 2 hours
with 9% gallons of rain or ice water; I oz. of
saltpetre is,then added, and 4 minutes afterward
2 oz. of bionscalate of potassa, the whole being
kept boiling for IO minutes longer. A very
small quantity of gelatine, in the solution, is
then stirred in, and the mixture allowed to rest
for 4 hours, upon which the clear liquid is de-
canted into flat porcelain dishes there to deposit.
The latter operation requires several weeks.
The sediment, which ought to be pure carmine,
is then dried in the shade.

CA T HARTIC S YRUP.—-Best senna leaf,
I 02.; butternut, the inner bark of the root,
dried and bruised, 2 02.; peppermint leaf, 1 oz. ;
fennel seed, I oz. ; alcohol, I pint; water, 2
pints; sugar, 2 lbs. ; put all into the spirit and
water, except the sugar, and let it stand 2 weeks,
then strain, pressing out from the dregs, adding
the sugar, and simmering a few minutes only, to
form the syrup. If it should cause griping in
any case, increase the fennel seed and pepper-
mint leaf. DOSE—I tablespoonful, once a day,
or less often, if the bowels become too loose.

CA TAPLASM PRADIER’S.—-Balm of
Mecca, 6 drs. ; rectified spirit, I6 02. ; dissolve;
red bark, sarsaparilla, and sage, of each I 02.;
saffron, % of an 02. ; rectified spirit, 32 oz. ; di-
gest for 48 hours; filter; mix the two liquors,
and add twice their weight of lime water. Used
in gout, by sprinkling 2 02. on the surface of a
hot linseed-meal poultice.

CA USTIC PASTE, fir Surgeam’ Us .—
Melt together equal parts of caustic potash and
gutta percha, and cast in molds in the same man-
ner as pure potash or nitrate of silver. In order
to produce a serviceable article, great care is nec-
essary that the ingredients be pure.

DRUGGIST A ZVD CHEMIST. 67

CA US TIC, Velpam’s Black—Triturate in_ a
porcelain mortar 3o grammes powdered licprlce
root, and add sulphuric acid in small quantities,
until a mass of suitable consistence is obtained,
which must be neither too hard nor too liquid.

CERA T E, CAMPHOR.——Fresh hog’s lard,
3% oz. ; grated camphor, I 02. Dissolve the
lard by boiling water round a cup ; then gradu-
ally add the camphor; stir well, and when cool-
ing pour off the sediment.

CERA TE 01“ ACETA TE 0]“ LEAD.—
Powdered acetate of lead, 5 drachms ; white
wax, 5 oz. ; olive oil, I pint. Dissolve the wax
in 18 oz. of the oil; add to this the lead mixed
with the remainder of the oil, and stir with a
spatula until they are thoroughly mixed. Ap-
plied to burns, excoriations, irritable ulcers, and
sores generally.

CERA TE 0F CANTHARIDES.—Can-
tharides rubbed to fine powder, I oz.; sperma-
ceti cerate, 6 oz. Melt the cerate, and add the
cantharides. Employed to promote the dis-
charge from a blistered surface.

CERA TE 01“ LEA D, Compound—Solution
of diacetate of lead, 6 oz. ; wax, 8 oz. ; olive
oil, I pint; camphor, I drachm. Mix the wax,
when melted, with 16 oz, of the oil, and when
cooling add the lead; stir until cool, and then
add the camphor dissolved in the rest of the oil.
Used as the former lead cerate.

CIIARCOAZ. 0F WOOD.—In 15 or 16 cases
of obstinate constipation of the bowels, Dr. Dan—
iel, of Georgia, administered 3 tablespoonfuls of
pulverized charcoal every % hour, and in about
I7 hours the bowels were freely evacuated. It
is slow, but sure. A tablespoonful 2 or 3 times
a day will remove costiveness. In smaller doses
it corrects bad breath, and also prevents putrid
belching of wind from the stomach. It is a very
powerful antiseptic, or anti~mortification remedy.

CHARCOAL, ' PREPARED. —Fresh-made
charcoal in fine powder, 7 lbs. ; pre ared chalk,
I 1b.; orris root, I 1b.; catechu, ’2 1b.; cassia
bark, % 1b.; myrrh, % lb. Sift.

CHAMO/IIILE.—A ‘warm decoction of the
flowers in large quantities will act as an emetic;
in small doses, taken cold, it is an excellent tonic
to strengthen the stomach.

CHER]? Y PECTORAL, .4 YER’S.-—Take
4 grains of acetate of morphia, 2 fluid drachms
of tincture of blood-root, 3 fluid drachms each
of antimonial wine and wine of ipecacuanha, and
3 fluid 02. of syrup of wild cherry. Mix.

CHLOROFORzM—Chlorinated lime, 4 1b.;
rectified spirit, I/z' pint; water, Io pints; chloride
of calcium, in pieces, I drachm. Put the mixed
lime and water into aretort; add the spirit so
that all occupies only one-third of the retort.
Heat it in a sand-bath, and when ebullition com-
mences at once withdraw the heat, lest the retort
be broken. Let the liquid distill into the re-
ceiver, while heating subsides, and applying
heat again when necessary. To the distilled
liquid add one-fourth of the water, and mix well.
Separate the heavier portion, which subsides,
and add the chloride to it ; frequently shakedu-
ring half an hour, and re-distill from a glass re-
tort into a glass receiver.

CHLOROFORM—Prof. Nussbaum has suc-
ceeded in prolonging the anaesthesia induced by
chloroform, by the sub-cutaneous injection of a
solution containing I grain of acetate of mor hia.
In one case the patient slept 12 hours, an un-

 

derwent a painful operation without experiencing
any sensation whatever. The injection, perv
formed without the previous inhalation of chlo-
roform, produced no such effect.

CHLOROD YNE, 9’. Collz's Browne’L—Burnt
sugar, I drachm; hydrochlorate of morphia, %
grain; distilled water, 2 drachms; oil of pe -
permint, 6minims; diluted prussic acid, (Ph. L.)
5 minims; tinc. capsicum, 7 minims; chloro-
form, I drachm. Mix.

CIIOLA GOGUE, INDIA.—Quinine, 20 gr. ;
Peruvian bark, (pulverized,) I oz.; tartaric acid,
I scruple; brandy, I gill ; water enough to
make I pint. Dose—5 teaspoonfuls every 2
hours, in the absence of fever.

CII'LOA’A L, [{YDRA TE OE—The use of
this new remedy, either as an anodyne, a seda-
tive, or a hypnotic, has, at this writing, become
very prevalent, and there is danger that not a
little harm may result therefrom. Eminent phy-
sicians say that it aggravates many diseases—as
rheumatism and skin diseases—and causes irri~
tation of the mucus surfaces of the nose and
throat. It also causes dimness of sight. One
case is reported where a man took an over-dose,
slept for 24 hours, and, on awaking, found his
legs and arms paralyzed. Its effects are, of
course, various in different individuals. Ape-
culiar diagnostic sign of its effects is a black
streak on the tongue, like that caused by ink,
extending its whole length in the centre.

For these reasons its use should be discarded,
especially so because the habit of using it, when
once formed, is exceedingly hard to break off,
and attempts to do so have resulted in symptoms
not unlike those of delirium tremens.

It has been found on trial to be an excellent
suppurative agent. According to the time it is
left on the skin, it becomes a perfect rubefacient,
irritant, suppurative, or even escharotic. The
mode of application is to take a piece of fresh
adhesive plaster, of the size wanted, and crush
fine, on its surface, with an ivory spatula, enough
of the crystals of the chloral to )owder the piece
of adhesive plaster quite evenly; use the edge
of the spatula to take off the chloral where it is
more than a mere dust in thickness, but distrib-
ute evenly, leaving % of an inch margin for ad-
hesion; heat the back of the plaster for an in-
stant only, and apply. Leave it on about % an
hour as a rubefacient, 6 hours as an irritant.
To produce suppuration, put the chloral on the
plaster in larger quantities, and leave on from
24 to 36 hours; on its withdrawal apply a stimu-
lating salve, and afterwards heal with cerate.
For an escharotic effect apply the chloral, thickly
spread, and after 12 hours repeat the application,
if necessary.

C OAL—GAS, Detection of Sulphurin.——The
presence of sulphur in coal-gas can be proved in
the following simple manner: Let a platinum
basin be filled with half a litre of water, and
the basin be heated over a Bunsen burner until
all the liquid has evaporated; the basin will be
found to be coated on the outside, where it has
been struck by the flame, with a dirty, greasy-
looking substance, which, on being washed if
with pure distilled water and tested proves to be
sulphuric acid. The glass chimneys used with
Argand gas-burners soon become coated over
internally with a white substance, which, on be-
ing washed off with distilled water, will be
found to be, on testing, sulphate of ammonia.

68

The glass panes of a room wherein gas is
burned for a few evenings consecutively will,
when rubbed with the fingers of a clean hand,
impart to it a substance which, on the hand be-
ing rinsed in distilled water, will yield a precip-
itate of sulphate of baryta with chloride of ba-
rium, and a brick-red precipitate with potassio-
iodide of mercury.

COLORS, DR UGGISTS’.— Yellow—Take
iron filings, hydrochloric acid to dissolve. Di-
lute with water. Rat—Solution of sal ammo-
niac, cochineal to color. Blue.-—I. Sul hate of
copper, I part; alum, I part; water, I parts;
oil of vitriol, q. s.—2. Indigo, I part; oil of
vitriol, 3 parts. Dissolve, and then dilute with
water. Gram—I. Verdigris; dilute sulphuric
acid to dissolve. Dilute with water.—2. Ver-
digris, 1 part; acetic acid, 3 parts, Dissolve,
and dilute with water. Pavia—I. Sugar-of-
lead, I 02.; cochineal, 25 grains.—2. Infusion
of logwood, water of ammonia, q. s.

- C OMFRE Y.—Comfrey boiled in milk is ex-
cellent in dysentery and bowel complaints, im-
moderate courses, and other diseases. It is
beneficial in all cases attended with burning
heat in urinary evacuations. A poultice of the
pounded root is good for wounds and inflamma-
tory swellings.

COTTONfor Staunc/ring Hemorrhage—\A
new preparation.)—-American cotton of the best
quality should be cleansed by boiling it for an
hour in a weak solution of soda, (about 4 per
cent.,) then re eatedly washed in cold water,
pressed out and> dried. By this process it will
be perfectly disinfected, and adapted to more
ready absorption. After this it should also be
steeped once or twice, according to the degree of
strength required, in liquid chloride of iron, di-
luted with % water, presssed, and thoroughly
dried in the air—neither in the sun nor by the
fire—then lightly pulled out. The cotton so
prepared will be of a yellowish-brown color. It
must be kept very dry, as it is affected by the
damp. Lint may be similarly treated, but the
fine texture of the cotton renders it preferable.
When placed on a fresh wound, it causes a mod-
erate contraction of the tissue, and gradually
coagulates the blood in and beyond the injured
veins, thus closing the source of the effusion.
This property of the chloride of iron is increased
by the dryness of the cotton and the extended
surface offered for the development of the chem-
ical action.

CORDIAL, GODFRE Y ’S.—-Sassafras, 6
02; seeds of coriander, caraway, and anise, of
each 1 oz. ; infuse in 6 pints of water; simmer
the mixture till reduced to 4 ints, and then add
6 lbs. of molasses; boil a ew minutes; when
cold, add 3 fluid oz. of tincture of opium.

C ORDIAL, GO U T.—Rhubarb, 1 oz. ; senna
and red sanders, of each 2 drachms; coriander
and fennel seeds, of each I drachm; saffron and
licorice, of each % drachm; stoned raisins, 6
02.; proof spirit, 48 oz. ; macerate for 14 days,
express and filter. Dose—% to 1% oz.

COUGH CANDY, Medicated—To 5 lbs. of
candy just ready to pour on the slab, add the
following mixture, and form it into sticks : T inc~
ture of squills, 2 02.; camphorated tincture of
opium and tincture of tolu, of each % oz. ; wine
of ipecac, % 02.; oils of gaultheria, 4 drops;
sassafras,‘3 drops, and of anise seed oil, 2 drops.
Use this freely in common coughs.

linen.

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

C OUGH C OAIPOUND—For the cure of
coughs, colds, asthma, whooping cough, and all
diseases of the lungs: I spoonful of common
tar, 3 spoonfuls of honey, the yelks of 3 hen’s
eggs, and half a pint of wine; beat the tar, the
eggs, and the honey well together with a knife,
and bottle for use. A teaspoonful every morn-
ing, noon and night, before eating.

C 0 UR T PLA S TER.-——Soak bruised isinglass
in a little warm water for 24 hours, then evapo-
rate nearly all the water by gentle heat; dis-
solve the residue in a little proof spirits of wine,
and strain the whole through a piece of open
The strained mass should be a stiff jelly
when cool. Now extend a piece of silk on a
wooden frame, and fix it tight with tacks or pack
thread. Melt the jelly, and apply to the silk
thinly and evenly with a badger hair brush.

A second coating must be applied when the
first has dried. When both are dry, cover the
whole surface with coatings of balsam of Peru,
applied in the same way. Plaster thus made is
very pliable, and never breaks.

CREAM, COLD.—Oil of almonds, 4 02.;
white wax and spermaceti, of each 2 drachms ;
melt; add rose water, 4 oz. ; orange-flower wa-
ter, 1 oz. Used to soften the skin.

CREAM, C OLD, VIOLET—Almond oil,
% 1b.; oil of cassie, % 1b.; rose water, I lb. ;
sperm, 1 02.; wax, l 02.; otto of almonds, %
drachm.

CREAM, CIRCASSIAM—Olive oil, 1 pint;
white wax, 3 02.; spermaceti, 2 02.; alkanet
root, % oz. Warm the oil and alkanet, then
strain, and add it to the melted spermaceti and
wax. Scent with 3 drachms of English oil of
lavender, and I drachm of essence of amber-
gris. Used for the hair.

CREAM, CRYSTALL]NE.—Olive oil, 3
lbs. ; spermaceti, 4 to 6 02.; melt, cool, and add
essence of bergamotte and essence of lemon, of
each 6 drachms; oil of cinnamon, 20 drops;
otto of rose, 1 drachm. Mix. Fragrant. Used
for the hair.

CREAM SHA VINGu—White wax, sperm-
aceti, and almond oil, of each % oz. ; and while
warm beat in 2 squares of Windsor soap, pre-
viously reduced to a paste with rose water.

CREAAI 0F ROSES.—Oil of almonds, 1
1b.; rose water, 1 pint; white wax and sperm-
aceti, each I 02. Mix in a pipkin with a little
heat, then add essence of neroli, 20 drops; otto
of roses, 15 drops. Put it into pots, and tie it
over with skin or oiled leather.

CEPHA 1.1 C SiVUFF.—I. Asarabacca leaves
(dried,) 3 parts; marjoram and lavender flow-
ers, of each 1 part. Mix in fine powder.—2.
(Boeli’s.) Valerian and snuff, of each 2 drs.;
oil of lavender and oil of marjoram, of each 3
drops. Mix.

DANDELIOM—A decoction of dandelion
will correct an unhealthy state of the stomach
and liver, and procure an appetite. It is diu-
retic, and very beneficial in jaundice. Given in
the form of extract, in from 3 to 5 grain doses, 3
times a day, and continued for a long time,. it
has the happiest effect It on the liver when its
disease has assumed a c ronic form. The best
way of preparing it, is to gather the. roots in
August and September, press out the Juice, and
evaporate in shallow dishes exposed to a dry,
warm air.

DENTIFRICE, C ircamhm—Prepared harts-

DRUGGIST AND CHEMIST. 69

horn, 2 02.; sulphate of potash, 2 02.; cuttle-
fish bone, 8 oz. ; orris root, 4 oz. ; yellow san-
dal wood, I 02.; rose pink, 3 02.; oil of rho-
dium, 30 drops. Mix the powdered ingredients,
and add the rhodium.

DEN T IFRICE, Myrrh—Myrrh, I 02. ;
cuttle-fish bone, 4 oz. ; orris, 3 oz. Mix.

DEN T [FRI C E, Cartwrig/zt’:.—Of prepared
chalk, I oz. ; orris, I oz. ; castile soap, I drachm.

DEN T [FRI C E, Camp/wratta'.—Precipitated
chalk, I 1b.; powdered orris root, % 1b.; pow-
dered camphor, y lb.

DEN T [FRI C E , C lzarcoaL—Fresh charcoal
in fine powder, 7 lbs.; prepared chalk, I 1b.;
orris root, I 1b.; catechu, I 1b.; cassia bark, I
1b.; myrrh, % lb. Sift.

DEN T [FRI C E , Cattle Fish—Powdered
cuttle fish, I 1b.; precipitated chalk, I 1b.; pow-
dered orris, I 1b.; otto of lemons, I ounce; ot-
to of neroli, I drachm.

DEPILA TORIES.—Depilatory is a term
which is applied to any application that removes
hair from the human skin. Depilatories act
either mechanically or chemically. To the first
belong adhesive plasters, that on their removal
from the skin bring away the hair with them;
equal parts of pitch and resin have been used
for this purpose. To the second class belong
those substances which act upon the bulbous
roots of the hairs, and destroy their vitality.
The former method is more painful, but less
dangerous, than the latter one. The following
are the principal depilatories at present employed
in the fashionable world: I. (Delcroix’s Poudre
Subtile.)——Orpiment, I part; finely powdered
quicklime and starch, of each II parts; mix. It
should be kept from the air. For use, make it
into a paste with a little warm water, and apply
it to the part, previously shaved close. As soon
as it has become thoroughly dry, it may be
washed off with alittle warm water. 2. (Ori-
ental Ru:ma.)—Quicklime, 2 02.; orpiment,
% oz. ; strong alkaline lye, I lb. ; boil together
until a feather dipped into it loses its flue. It is
applied to the skin, previously soaked in warm
water, by gentle friction, for a very short time,
followed by washing with warm water. This is
one of the most certain and powerful depilato-
ries made, but rapidly loses its strength unless
kept inawell—stoppered glass bottle. 3. (C/zi—
nese Depilatory.)—Quicklime, I lb. ; pearlash
and sulphuret of potassium, of each 2 02.; re-
duce them to a fine powder, and keep it in well-
corked bottles. Use like Poudre Subtile. 4.
(Rayer’r Depilatary.)—- Lime, I 02.; carbonate
of potash, 2 02.; charcoal powder, I drachm.
This and No. 3 are preferred by those persons
who do not approve of the use of arsenic. 5.
(Depilatmy Part6.)-—-Quicklime, I 02. ; orpi—
ment and orris root, of each 3 drachms; salt-
petre and sulphur, of each I drachm; soap-lees,
% a pint; evaporate to a proper consistence. It
should be kept from the air.

DR. KI TT REDGE’S REMED Y fir R/ztu-
{autism and Stg'fl‘ 70mm. —Strong camphor spir-
xts, I pint; neats-foot, coon, bear, or sku‘nk’s
oil, I pint; spirits of turpentine, I pint. Shake
the bottle when used, and apply 3 times daily,
by pouring on a little at a time, and rubbing in
all you can for 20 to 30 minutes.

DR. PEABOD Y ’S CURE fir IVeuralgz'a
(lmernal Remedy. )—Sa1 ammomac, % drachm;
dissolve in water, I oz.‘ Dose—I tablespoonful

 

every 3 minutes for 20 minutes, at the end of
which time, if not before, the pain will have
disappeared.

DROPS OF LIFE, IIVded’L—Gum opium,
I 02.; gum kino, I drachm; gum camphor, 40
grains; powdered nutmegs I 02. ; French brandy
or Jamaica spirits, I pint; color with cochineal

or saffron. Before taking cleanse the bowels‘

with castor oil. For a grown person 20 to 40
drops 3 or 4 times per day. For children, 4 to

6 drops; administer in ,a little warm mint tea, in .

which is mixed as much prepared chalk as will
lie on the handle of a teaspoon.

DROPS, IA!PER[AL, fir Gravel and K'id-
Izey Complaints.—Oil of origanum, I 02. ; oil of
hemlock, '4, 02.; oil of sassafras, % 02. ; oil of
anise, I 02.; alcohol, I pint; mix. Dose—I
teaspoonful 3 times a day, in sweetened water;
this will soon give relief when constant weak-
ness is felt across the small of the back, as well
as gravelly affections causing pain about the kid-

ne 3.

yDROPS, DI URE T I C.-Oil of cubebs, I 02 ;
sweet spirits of nitre, I 02.; balsam of copaiba,
I 02.; Harlem oil, I bottle; oil of lavender, 20
drops; spirits of turpentine, 20 drops; mix.
Dose—Io to 25 drops, as the stomach will bear,
3 times dail .

DROPS, PEC T ORAL (Bateman’s.)—Pare-
goric, lo 02.; tincture of castor, 4 02.; lauda-
num, I 02.; tincture of saffron, I 02.; oil of an-
iseed, 15 drops. Mix. Dose—I teaspoonful in
case of coughs or colds.

DROPS, DUTCH (or Harlem. )—-Take bal-
sam of turpentine, 2 02.; oil of turpentine, Io
02. Mix.
EAU DE CHYPRE.—-Extract of musk, I
pint; amber-gris, vanilla, tonquin bean, orris, of
each half a pint; triple extract of rose, 2 pints.
The mixture thus formed is one of the most
lasting odors that can be made.

EA U DE BOTOT, fir t/ze T eel/z.-——Tincture
of cedar wood, I pint; tincture of myrrh, I 02. ;
oil of pep )ermint, half a drachm; oil of spear-
mint, halt1 a drachm; oil of cloves, 10 drops;
oil of roses, 10 drops. Mix.

EAU POUR LES DEN TS.—Cinnamon, 2
ounces; cloves, 6 drachms; fresh lemon peel, 2
ounces; dried rose petals, I ounce ; scurvy
grass, 8 ounces; spirits, 3 pounds; macerate, 24
hours, and distil in a water-bath.

EA U DE M1LLEFLEURS.—Spirit of cum-
min seed, oils of sassafras and rosemar , of each
10 drops; oil of lavender, and otto o roses, of
each 2 drachms; neroli, half a drachm; oils of
pimento and cloves, of each 20 drops; essence
of bergamotte, 4 drachms; oil of orange, I
drachm; essence of lemon, 8 ounces; vanilla, I
scruple; elder-flower water, 4 ounces; rectified
Spirit, 30 ounces; mix and filter. ‘

EAU DE BOUQUEYX—I. Spirit of rose-
mary and essence of violets, of each I ounce;
essence of bergamotte and jasmine, of each I
drachm; oils of verbena and lavender, each I
scruple; eau de rose, half a pint; orange-flower
water, I ounce; rectified spirit, 2 pints; mix,
digest and filter.—2. Honey-water, 2 ounces;
tincture of cloves, I ounce; tinctures of cala-
mus, of lavender, and of long cypress, each half
an ounce; eau sans pareille, 4 ounces ; spirit of
jessamine, 9 drachms ; tincture of orris, I ounce;
tincture of neroli, 20 drops; mix and filter.

EA U DE ROSIERES.-—Spirits of roses, 4

70

pints; spirits of jessamine, 1 pint; spirits of or-
ange flowers, I pint; spirits of cucumber, 2%
pints; spirits of celery seed, 2% pints.

EAU DE VIOLETTES.—Macerate 5 oz.
of fine orris root in a quart of rectified spirits,
for some days, and filter.

ERGOYI—The diseased production of rye;
on some occasions, when the grain has been
spurred or covered with ergot, it has caused
death frequently to the partakers; medically it is
administered to contract the uterus in labor, and
it is very powerful in this case. The active
property appears to reside in the oil, which is
taken up by hot water, (tea, etc.,) alcohol, and
ether, and these preparations are generally ad-
ministered uncombined with other medicines.
Powdered ergot is given in repeated doses of to
to 20 grains, or in one dose of half a drachm, in
which case it generally acts in less than 20 min-
utes.

ERGOT, Ethereal T {nature of.-——-Powdered
ergot, 15 ounces; ether, 2 pints; macerate 7
days; express and strain. Dose—15 to 60
drops, according to the object in view.

ERGOT, T z'ntturt 'of—Powdered ergot, 8

ounces; proof spirit, 2 pints; macerate 14 days;
strain, express and filter. Dose—15 drops to 2
drachms, as required.
‘ ERGOT, T o Preseme.—Ergot is injured from
being eaten by a minute insect of the acarus ge-
nus, that appears to have a liking for damaged
rye, among, perhaps, many other things to it
not less palatable. As it has an aversion to
many pungent things, it may be kept away by
putting in the vessel containing the ergot a few
drops of the oil of cloves, or a few cloves them-
selves, or seeds of cardamons, or camphor, etc.
If well dried before corking it up, by treating it
after this manner it may be preserved for a long
time, probably several years.

ELDER.—An infusion of elder flowers is
good for feverishness and sore mouth in chil-
dren; add a pint of boiling water to a table—
spoonful of the flowers.

The inner bark, with cream, fresh butter, or
sweet oil, makes a nice cooling ointment for
burns, and other inflamed sores.

ELIXIR, Anti-:mréutic, fizr the T tat/z.—
Cinchona, 3 ounces; guaiacum, 5 ounces; pel-
litory 3 ounces; oran e peel, 2 drachms; cloves,
5 drachms; saffron, alf a drachm; benzoin, 2
drachms ; spirits of wine or brandy, 32 ounces ;
digest and filter.

ELIXIR, REED’S, fir Ilze Teeth—Fresh
roots of horse-radish, fresh leaves of scurvy
grass and mint, each 6 drachms; guaiacum,
cinchona, pellitor , calamus, and rhatany, each
5 drachms; proofy spirits, 1 quart; macerate for
16 days, and strain.

ELIXIR, ODON T A L G] C .—Pellitory root,
2 ounces: simple spirits of lavender, 16 ounces;
muriate of ammonia, half a drachm; digest 24
hours and filter.

ELIXIR 0F ROSES, fir t/ze Teeth.—
Cloves, r drachm; cinnamon, 3 ounces; ginger,
2 ounces ; spirits of wine, 2 pints ; oil of orange,
1 drachm; otto of roses 15 drops; essence of
peppermint, 1 ounce. Mix. Digest I 5 days,
and filter.

ELIXIR of Pyraphosp/zafe szran and Bark.
—Pyrophosphate of iron 128
syrup 2 ounces, water 6 ounces, tincture of bit-
ter orange peel 2 ounces, alcohol, dilute, 6

grains, simple‘

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

ounces, sulphate of quinia 6 grains, sulphate of
cinchona 3 grains, sul hate of quinidia 3 grains.
Put the water, pyrop osphate of iron, and half
an ounce of the simple syrup into a pint bottle,
and shake occasionally till the pyrophosphate of
iron is dissolved. Into another pint bottle put
the diluted alcohol, tincture of bitter orange peel,
and the sulphates of quinia, cinchona, and quin-
idia, and shake occasionally till these salts of
bark are dissolved—then add the whole to the
bottle containing the pyrophosphate of iron, and
shake till mixed, after which filter through pa-
per, and add the remainder of the syrup; mix by
shaking, and the preparation is ready for use.

ELIXIR 0F CALISA YA BARK AND
[ROM—Take calisaya bark in powder 4 ounces,
Cinnamon water 2 pints, caraway water I pint,
tincture of orange peel % a pint, alcohol yz’ a
pint, brandy 2 pints, syrup 3 pints, soluble py-
rophosphate of iron 2 ounces. Mix the cinna—
mon and cara‘way waters with the tincture of or-
ange peel, and percolate the bark with the mix-
ture. Dissolve the pyrophosphate of iron in the
percolate, add the other ingredients, and filter.
This contains about 1 grain of pyrophosphate of
iron and 2 grains of cinchona bark to a drachm.

ESSEJV CE of Bitter Almona’r.—Essential
'oil of almonds I part, and rectified spirit 20
parts. Used to flavor wine, cordials, liquors,
perfumery, pastry, etc. It is poisonous in large
quantity, and, having a strong taste, very little
serves to impart flavor.

ESSENCE of Lavender.—Essential oil of
lavender 3 ounces, rectified spirit 2 quarts, rose
water half a pint, tincture of orris half a pint.

ESSENCE (yr [Koren—I. Otto of roses 7
drachms, spirit 1 gallon. Mix.—2. Rose leaves 5
4 parts, water 12 parts. Distill off one-half.
When a sufficient quantity of this water has been
obtained, it must be used as water upon fresh
rose leaves, and the same process must be re-
peated to the fourth, fifth, or even the sixth
time, according to the quality desired.

ESSEXVCE of [Verdi—Spirits of wine half
a pint, orange peel, cut small, 3 ounces, orris
root, in powder, I drachm, musk 2 grains. Let
it stand in a warm place for 3 days, and filter.

ESSENLE qf Randelette.—Spirit (brandy,
60 o. p.) I gallon, otto of lavender 2 ounces,
otto of cloves I ounce, otto of roses 3 drachms,
otto of bergamot I ounce, extract of musk, va.
nilla and ambergris each % pint. The mixture
must be made at least a month before it is fit for

use.

ESSENCE of 1Vmé.—I. Bladder musk, cut
small, 5 parts, (rivet I part, spirit of ambrette 100
parts, strongest alcohol, 35 parts. Put them into
a close vessel, and digest for a time in a heat
of from 100 to I 50° Fahrenheit.—2. Grain musk
2 drachms; alcohol, I lb. Mix. As before.

ESSENCE qf Peppermint—Oil of pepper-
mint 1 ounce, rectified spirit I ounce, carbonate
of magnesia half an ounce, water 7 ounces. Mix
the oil and magnesia intimately, put them in the
filter, pour on the spirit, and afterwards the wa-
ter. Mixes with water; it may be filtered again
if not quite clear.

EASEACE 0F VIOLETS.-—I. Orris root,
2 ounces; rectified spirit, 8 ounces; digest, cx~
press and filter, or proceed by percolation.—2.
Alcoholic extract of cassie 1 pint, esprit de rose,
tincture of orris and of tuberose, of each half a
pint, oil of almonds, 3 drops.

DR UGGIST AND CHEMIST. 7x

 

‘ ESSENCE of Vtréma.—I. on of verbena,
I drachm; rectified spirit, I ounce; mix, and
add essence of vanilla, IO drops—2. Oll of lem-
on-grass, 3 drachms; of lemon. peel, 2_ ounces;
of orange peel, 4 drachms; spirit I pint; mix
and filter.

ESSENCE fir Smelling Bottles—Essence
of ambergris, I ounce; otto of roses and 011 of
lavender, of each 20 drops; essence of berga-
motte, 2 drachms; mix, and add 5 ounces of the
strongest solution of ammonia. Fragrant and
refreshing.

ESPRITDE BO UQ UE T.—Oil of lavender,
oil at cloves, and oil of bergamotte, each 2
drachms ; otto of rose and oil of cinnamon, each
20 drops; essence of musk, I drachm ; rectified
spirits, I pint. Mix.

ETHER, ACETIC.—Take strong alcohol,

parts; acetate of potass, 3 parts; concen-
trated sulphuric acid, 2 parts. Mix and distill;
then take of the product 4 parts, and sulphuric
acid I part, and draw over a quantity equal in
weight to the alcohol employed.

EXTRACTS, T0 ’MAKE.—Take of the
plant, root or leaves you wish to make the ex-
tract from, any quantity; add sufficient water,
and boil them gradually; then pour off the wa-
ter, and add a second quantity; repeat the pro-
cess until all the virtue is extracted, then mix
the several decoctions, and evaporate at as low
a temperature as possible, to the consistence of
an extract. Extracts are better made in a water
bath, and in close vessels, and for some very
delicate articles, the evaporation may be carried
on at a very low tern erature, in a vacuum, by
surrounding the vesse with another containing
sul huric acid. Manufacturing druggists usually
adcfto every 7 lbs. of extract 4 ounces of gum
arabic, I ounce of alcohol, and I ounce of olive
oil. This mixture gives the extract a gloss and
keeps it soft.

EXTRACT OFBUCflU—Buchu leaves I
1b., boiling distilled water 3 gals. ; boil the leaves
in 2 gals. of the water down to 6 quarts; then
boil it again in the remaining water till reduced
to 2 quarts. Evaporate the mixed liquor down
to 6 quarts, and add I quart of strong sage tea,
2 drachms of bicarbonate of potassa, 2 drachms
of cannabis indica, 5 ounces of rectified spirit, 2
ounces of balsam copaiba and Harlem oil; then
bottle.

EXTRACT 0F ELDERFLOWERS, fir
the Complexion.-—Take gum benzoin I drachm,
a wine-glassful of spirits of wine. and I pint of
elder-flower water. Powder the gum, and put
it into the spirit. In a short time it will be dis-
solved. Now put this mixture into a jug, and
then gradually add the elder-flower water. If
there be any particles of benzoin not dissolved,
the extract must be strained through fine muslin
prior to its being put into the toilet bottle. On
account of the milky appearance of this prepara-
tiop, the French perfumers call it lait virgi-
na .

EXTRA CT 01“ OPIUM—Opium sliced
1% lbs., distilled water 5 pints. Macerate the
opium in % the water for 24 hours, frequently
stirring; then strain, macerate for 24 hours in
the remaining water, and strain and evaporate
the mixed liquors to an extract. Used as a mild
preparation of o ium. Dose—I to 6 grains.

EXTRACT OF POPP K—Poppies bruised
and freed from the seeds I 5 ounces, boiling dis-

 

tilled water I gallon; macerate for 24 hours,
boil to 4 pints, strain while hot, and evaporate
to an extract. Anodyne narcotic. Dose—2 to
20 grains.

EXTRA CT 0F SARSAPARILLA, Fluid.
—-Sliced sarsaparilla 3% lbs., boiling distilled
water 5 gallons, rectified spirit, 2 ounces. Boil
the sarsaparilla in 3 gallons of water to 12 pints,
and strain. Evaporate the mixed liquors to 18
ounces, and when cold add the spirit. Dose—I
to 2 drachms, or more.

EXTRACT 0F SEN/VA, Flzzz’d.—-Senna, 15
lbs. av., boiling water, q. s.; concentrate the in-
fusion to 10 lbs. av., dissolve in it 6 lbs. of thick
treacle, add 24 fluid ounces of rectified spirit,
and water sufficient to make I 5 pints. Dose—2
drachms. Each ounce represents I ounce of the
senna.

EXTRA CT OF VANILLA—Take of va.
nilla in the pods I ounce, fine washed sand I
ounce, 95 per cent. alcohol 3 ounces, 45 per cent.
alcohol I3 ounces, syrup 2 drachms; cut the va-
nilla into short pieces and bruise well with the
sand, then pack in a displacer; add first the
strong and afterwards the diluted alcohol; after
24 hours filter.

FEBRIFUGE, for Fez/err in General.—
Carhonate of ammonia 2 drachms, alum I drachm,
capsicum, foreign 'gentian, colombo root, and
prussiate of iron, all pulverized, of each % a
drachm; mix by puttinginto a bottle, and adding
4 ounces of cold water. Dose—I teaspoonful to
a grown person, every 2 hours, in common cases
of fever. It may be sweetened, if preferred.
Shake well each time before giving, and keep the
bottle tightly corked.

FEBRIFUGE TEA—Take Virginia snake~
root and valerian root, of each 2 drachms, and of
boiling water I pint. Pour the boiling water on
the roots and steep % an hour, and give a tea-
spoonful of the febrifuge and a tablespoonful of
this tea together, every2 hours, and after the pa-
tient has been 24 hours without fever, give it ev-
ery 3 or 4 hours, until the patient has good ap-
petite and digestion; then 3 times daily, just be~
fore meals, until the patient has gained consid-
erable strength, when it may be entirely discon-
tinued; or he may continue the simple infusion
to aid digestion.

FEBRIFUGE I’VINE.—Quinine 25 grains,
water I pint, sulphuric acid 15 drops, epsom
salts 2 ounces, color with tincture of red sand-
ers. Dose—A wineglassful 3 times per day.
This is a world-renowned medicine.

FRENCH WHITE.—-French white is leviv
gated talc passed through a silk sieve. This is
the best face-powder made, particularly as it does
not discolor from action of the skin or impure
atmosphere.

FLUID EXTRA CT 0F VANILLA—Va-
nilla beans 4 ounces, sugar 2 ounces, alcohol 4
fluid ounces, simple syrup 4 ounces, brand I
pint. Cut the beans finely, and rub thoroughly
with the sugar, put all together in a strong stone
bottle; secure the cork with twine, and boil in a
water-bath for % an hour; then transfer to a
percolator, and add brandy sufiicient to make 4

ints.

FLUID, GERMAN RHEUMA TlC.—-—Oils
of hemlock and cedar, of each half an ounce, oils
of origanum and sassafras, each I ounce, aqua
ammonia I ounce, pulverized capsicum I ounce,
spirits of turpentine and gum camphor, of each a.

 

 

7:

half onnce; put all into a quart bottle, and fill it
with 95 per cent. alcohol.

FLUID, BOGLE’S HYPERIOM—To 8
ounces of 90 or 95 per cent. alcohol, colored with
red alkanet, add I ounce of castor oil; perfume
with geranium and verbena.

GARGLES.——Gargles are very simple reme-
dies, and well suited to domestic practice in sore
throats of various kinds. According to the na-
ture of the ingredients of which they are made,
they allay irritation and inflammation, invigorate
the membrane lining the mouth and throat, and

romote suppuration. The particular purpose
ibr which they are required ought to be kept in
view in their preparation.

GARGLE, For Inflamed Throat—Purified
nitre 2 drachms, barley water 7 ounces, acetate
of honey 7 drachms. Mix the ingredients, and
use frequently.

CAROLE, for Domtrtic U::.———3 teaspoonfuls
of vinegar, 2teaspoonfuls of tincture of myrrh, 2
of honey, a glass of port wine, and 3 or 4 wine-
glasscs of warm water ; mix all these ingredients,
and the gargle is ready for use. A decoction of
the leaves of the currant may, with good effect,
be added instead of the warm water. This makes
both a pleasant and useful gargle.

CAROLE, MUCILA GINOUS, fizr Inflamed
Throat—Tincture ot myrrh 2 drachms, mucilage
of gum Arabic 7 ounces. Mix. This gargle is
of use in defending the parts when the saliva is
of an acrid character.

GARGLE, to Promole Suppuralz'on.—Barley
water and infusion of linseed. This gargle is to
be used warm. It must be kept in view that
this mild gargle acts by softening the parts of the
throat, and hastening the su puration by its heat
—it is requisite, therefore, t at the temperature
of the gargle be kept up.

CHEWING GUM.—Take of prepared bal-
lam of tolu 2 ounces, white sugar I ounce, oat-
meal 3 ounces. Soften the gum in a water bath,
and mix in the ingredients; then roll in finely-
powdered sugar or flour to form sticks to suit.

GI. YCERINE.—Glycerine is derived from a
residuum left after the making of soap and stear-
ine candles, and which for ages was considered
of no value. The medicinal properties of gly-
cerine are of the most striking kind, but it is not
valuable in pharmacy only; its antiseptic prop-
erties are marvelous. It is capable of preserv-
ing animal substances from decay; leather is
preserved by it in a soft and pliable condition;
wooden vessels saturated with it neither shrink
nor dry up; it is used for extracting the odor of
flowers, and is of great value in the processes of
dyeing, brewing, 1i ueur making and wine keep-
ing; its power in ealing sores and removing
pains, such as ear-ache, is wonderful. With ni-
tric acid it forms nitro~glycerine, a substance
whose explosive force is many degrees greater
than that- of gunpowder.

GL YCONI/VE.—This is the name of a new
glycerine preparation, which is recommended as
a healing ointment for wounds, and broken sur-
faces of all kinds, erysipelas, cutaneous affections
—of which it allays the itching—as it forms a
sort of varnish over the skin, and thus excludes
the air. For its preparation 5 parts of glycerine
are mixed with 4 parts of the yelk of eggs. It
has the consistency of honey, feels like salve, and
is not changed in the air.

D YES, HA IR.—-Hair dyes color the hair only

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

as far as the roots, and require to be applied as
frequently as the growth of hair shows both the
false and real color. I. Dr. Hanman’:.—Lith-
arge half an ounce, quicklime 3 ounces, starch 2
ounces ; mix in powder. For use, mix in warm
water, and rub on the hair to the roots. Cover
the hair with oil-skin or wadding for the night.
——2. 07yila’:.—Litharge 6 parts, quicklime 5
parts, starch I part; mix and apply as above.—
3. S enter’L—Sap green half a drachm, nitrate
of Silver I drachm, hot water I ounce; dissolve.
Combed in the hair for use.--—4. Clzevalie7’:.—
Mix 5 drachms of fresh-slaked lime with 2 ounces
of water; strain and bottle. Dissolve 5 drachms
of acetate of lead in water, add enough slaked
lime to saturate the acetic acid, wash the precip-
itate, and mix it with the milk of lime.—-5. War-
ren’r.—Lime 4 ounces, white % an ounce, lith-
arge I drachm; mix in powder. Used with a
sponge and water, to dye black, or with milk to
dye brown.—Delcroz'x’.r.-—-Acetate of lead 2
ounces, prepared chalk 3 ounces, quicklime 4
ounces. As No. I.—7. Gm. Twigg3.~—I drachm
of sulphur, % a drachm of sugar of lead, 4
ounces of rose water. Mix them well; shake
the phial on using it, and bathe the hair twice a
day for a week or longer if necessary. It does
not dye the hair, but seems to restore the origi-
nal colon—8. Batc/ze/or’:.——No. I. To 1 ounce
of gallic acid, dissolved in 8 ounces 0t alcohol,
add % a gallon of soft water.——To I ounce of
nitrate of silver, dissolved in I ounce of concen-
trated ammonia and 3 ounces of soft water, add
I ounce of gum Arabic and 4 ounces of soft
water. '

HAIR DYES, Lead 1'n.—-There is no doubt
that the lead which forms so large a part of the
various hair dyes in general use is injurious, if
not actually dangerous, to the system. Head-
ache, neuralgia, paralysis, etc., have in number-
less cases been caused by the use of lead prepa-
rations for the hair, and for this reason they
should never be used. Gray hairs, whether on
the head of a middle-aged or old person, are in-
variably becoming, and are, or should be, “a
crown of glory.” Another objection to the dye-
ing of the hair is, that it can be detected by the
most casual observer, and, in fact, deceives no

one.

HA [R IN V10 ORA T 0R.—I. Take bay rum
I pint, alcohol % a pint, castor oil I ounce, car-
bonate of ammonia % of an ounce, tincture of
cantharides % of an ounce. Mix, and shake
when used. Tobe used daily.—2. Vinegar of
cantharides I ounce, Cologne water I ounce, and
rose water 1 ounce, mixed and rubbed to the
roots of the hair, until the scalp smarts, twice
daily, has been very highly recommended for
bald heads, or where the hair is falling out.——3.
Carbonate of ammonia I ounce, rubbed up in I
pint of sweet oil. Apply daily until the hair
stops falling out, or is sufiiciently grown out.—
4. Strong sage tea, as a daily wash, will be found
to promptly stop the hair from falling out, and,
if its use is persevered in, it will make it grow
thick and strong.

HAIR RES T ORA T I VES—Mrs. A [Ian’s—-
To 16 ounces of rose water, diluted with an
equal part of soft water, add % of an ounce of
sulphur and ,14 of an ounce of sugar of lead; let
the compound stand 5 days before using.—
Wood’:.——Take 4 drachms of lac sulphur, 2
of sugar of lead, and I pint of rose water; mil.

DRUGGIST AND CHEMIST. ’

—-Phalon’.r.—To 8 ounces of 90 per cent. alco-
hol, colored by a few drops of tincture of alkanet
root, add I ounce of castor-oil, and perfume With
a compound of bergamotte, neroli, verbena, and
orange. _

HAIR, Saponaceou: War/z fin t/ze.—Rect1fied
spirit I pint, rose water I gallon, extract of ron-
deletia % a pint, transparent soap % of an ounce,
hay saffron % of a drachm. Shave up the soap
very fine; boil it and the saffron in a quart of the
rose water; when dissolved, add the remainder
of the water, then the spirit, and finally the ron-
deletia, which is used by way of perfume. After
standing for 2 or 3 days, it is fit for bottling.

HAIR WASII, Rosemary—Rosemary water
I gallon, spirit to ounces, pearlash I ounce.

HOREHOUND.—A bitter pectoral herb,
used mostly in syrup or candy. The syrup is
made by adding I lb. of good lump sugar to each
pint of a strong infusion; the candy, with Io lb.
of lump sugar to each pint, and boiling until it
will candy on cooling. Used in severe coughs
and colds.

HORSE—RADISH—Thi is an anti-scor-
butic and stimulating medicin . It may be taken
either in substance or infused in wine, for the
scurvy, dropsy, palsy, chronic rheumatism, and
like affections.

HYDROGEN GAS, An Improved Met/2012' q;
Producing—Alkaline and earthy alkaline hy-
drates, such as the hydrate of potash, soda,
strontium, baryta, chalk, etc., mixed with char-
coal, coke, anthracite, pit-coal, peat, etc., and
heated to a red heat, are decomposed into car-
bonic acid and hydrogen without further loss of
heat than that due to the production of the car-
bonic acid and hydrogen. The hydrates of pot-
ash, soda, etc., and more especially the hydrates
of chalk or lime, decomposed by the coal into
hydrogen and carbonic acid, can be used indefi-
nitely in this process, provided they are moist~
ened each time with water, so as to reproduce
the decomposed hydrates. In this operation the
hydrogen gas is generated without any special
production of steam, and may thus be produced
without any other generating apparatus than the
retorts themselves. These retorts, not being
exposed to the direct action of the steam, are
not subject to any interior alteration or damage.
It follows, therefore, that the hydrogen gas pro—
duced by the decomposition of the above-named
hydrates, by means of carbon, can be generated
at a very small cost, and with the same facility
as carburetted hydrogens, from the distillation of
git-coal or other organic hydrocarbon matter.

hese alkaline and earthy alkaline hydrates may
be mixed with the different mineral or vegetable
combustibles, either in a definite chemical pro-
portion, or without afixed or determinate pro-
portion, and in any suitable distilling or heating
apparatus, in order to produce, when heated to
a red heat, hydrogen gas for illuminating and
heating purposes. The advantage of the pro-
duction of hydrogen as cheaply as oxygen, and
which has been obtained, is likely to create a
revolution in many industries, and especially in
metallurgy. A cheap method of producing a
great heat in order to reduce metals, such as pla-
tinum, gold, silver, and iron, has long been
sought for in Europe, where the oxyhydric blow-
pxpe is now used to melt the platinum in a cal-
cmni crucible. By this discovery it becomes
possrble to obtain any immense heat which may

 

.73

(and this is a most important point) be regulated
by a sim le ta .

ICE, CAMPHOR.—Melt of spermaceti I
drachm, with almond oil I ounce, and add of
powdered camphor I drachm.

IROIV, Bitter l/Vine tyf—Citrate of iron 128
grains, extract of calisaya x6 grains. Hot water,
sugar, and tincture of orange peel to flavor, and
sherry wine to make I pint. Dissolve the cit-
rate of iron and extract of cinchona separately in
hot water, adding a small excess of citric acid;
then add the sugar and tincture of orange peel,
and lastly the wine.

INFUSION OFBUCHUi—Buchu I Ounce,
boiling distilled water I pint. Macerate for 4
hours in a tightly-closed vessel, and strain.
Used in affections of the bladder or urinary or-
gans. Dose—I to 2 ounces, generally combined
with alkalies, as liquor potassa, etc.

INCENSE.—Powdered cascarilla 2 ounces;
myrrh, styrax, benzoin, and Burgundy pitch, of
each I ounce.

IODINE, Stain: of.—-By adding a few drops
of liquid carbolic acid to the iodine tincture, the
latter will not stain. Carbolic acid also renders
the efficacy of tincture of iodine more certain.
The following formula is recommended when-
ever injections of the latter are indicated : Alco-
holic tincture of iodine 45 drops, pure 1i uid
carbolic acid 6 drops, glycerine I ounce, disti led
water 5 ounces. In blenorrhea and leucorrhea
this mixture is said to be much superior to tar
water. .

XA THAIRON fir z‘lze’ Hair.—(Lyon’s.)
2 gallons of castor oil, and 3 gallons of alcohol.
Mix first. Io 025. of tincture cantharides, (of-
ficinal,) 12 ounces oil of bergamotte; dissolve
in a small quantity of alcohol. Tincture of red
sander—proportions say I lb. to 5 gallons, 95
per cent. alcohol to suit—4 ounces color 30 gal-
lons.

KALYDOR, fbr t/zt Compltxz'om—Take of
blanched bitter almonds I part, and rose-water
16 parts. Mix and strain, then add 5 grains of
bichloride of mercury to every 8 ounces of the
mixture, and scent with rose or violet.

LA RD, To Preparz Pure.—Take good white
lard, and melt it in a water bath ; then put it into
water, and agitate them well together to wash
out all the salt; let them cool, and then col-
lect the lard from the top of the water, drain it,
melt it again in a water bath, let it remain melted
for % of an hour, and lastly pour off the clearest
portion, and be careful to preserve it from the
air.

LA UDANUM—Take best Turkey opium I
ounce; slice it, and pour upon it I gill of boiling
water, and work it in a bowl or mortar until it is
dissolved; then pour it into the bottle, and with
half a pint of 76 per cent. alcohol, rinse the dish,
adding the alcohol to the: preparation, shaking
well, and in 24 hours it will be ready for use.
Dose—From Io to 30 drops for adults, according
to the strength of the patient or the severity of
the pain. 30 drops of this laudanum will be
equal to I grain of opium.

LEECHES.—Leeches are best preserved in
clean rain or pond water; in spring water they
soon die. The water should not be changed too
often; once each week in summer, and once
each month in winter, being sufficient, unless it
becomes foul. Leeches, when applied, do not
probe the skin like a lancet-point, but act by a.

74;

saw-like motion until the skin is pierced; they
then suck, if undisturbed, until the caecal pouches
are full, and finally drop off. A little salt is
usually sprinkled on to cause them to disgorge
the blood, and they are gently pressed between
the fingers to facilitate this effect. When leeches
do not readily bite, means are used to induce
them. The skin in all cases should be well
washed and dried, and the leech gently dried in
a soft cloth; it may then be put in a pill-box or
wine-glass, which is pressed on the part to be
operated on. When they do not yet bite, a
small puncture should be made with a lancet, to
draw blood, and they will then mostly take
hold. This mode is also used when the spot to
be drawn from is near the eye, etc. ; or, if the
leech is lively, it may be put in a large quill, and
the head placed toward the part, while the thumb
prevents its retreat at the opposite end. As the
amount of blood drawn by leeches is not large,
hot poultices or fomentations are applied to in-
crease the discharge, or the cupping- glasses may
be used. \Vhen sufficient is drawn, the bites
mostly close without much attention, but in some
rare cases they are very troublesome ; they then
should be pressed with lint soaked in a solution
of alum or the tincture of sesquichloride ofiron,
or a fine point of nitrate of silver should be in~
serted aminute distance. If the bleeding still
continues, the skin must have a needle passed
through the edges, and silk twisted round it.

LlfllE—yUICE AND 01. YCON!!VE.—~
Lime or lemon-juice % a pint; heat in a por-
celain mortar to near the boiling> point, and add
gradually rose water, elder-flower water, and
rectified spirits, of each 2 ounces. Agitate the
whole well together. After 24 hours’ repose,
decant or filter through calico or muslin, then
add of pure glycerine 2% ounces, and oil of
lemons % a drachm. Again agitate them to-
gether for some time, and by careful manipula-
tion you will have a somewhat milky liquid; but
it should be quite free from any coarse floating
matter or sediment.

LINIAIENTS.—A liniment is a semi-fluid
ointment, found or supposed to be useful in
painful joints, swellings, burns, etc. It is gen-
erally applied by rubbing on with the hand, or a
flannel, and sometimes both, the flannel being
used first to irritate the skin. There are many
who have come to the conclusion that the rub-
bing is more beneficial than the liniment.

LINIMENT, Andra—Add to 1 pint of
sweet oil 2 tablespoonfuls of tincture of arnica ;
or the leaves may be heated in the oil over a slow
fire. Good for wounds, stiff J oints, rheumatism,
and all injuries.

LINIIIIEN T, Clu'lélaz'm—I ounce of cam.
phorated spirit of wine, % an ounce of the sub-
acetate of lead, (liquor.) Mix, and apply 3 or
4 times a day. .

LINIMEN T, Camp/zan—Rectified spirits I7
fluid ounces, strong water of ammonia 2% 02.,
camphor 2 ounces, oil of lavender 5 drops.

LINIAIEN T, Electra-Magnetz’c.—Best alco-
hol I gallon, oil of amber 8 ounces, gum cam-
phor 8 ounces, castile soap shaved fine 2 ounces,
_ eef’s gall 4 ounces, ammonia 3 F.’s strong 12

ounces; mix, and shake occasionally for I2
hours, and it is fit for use.

LINIMEN T, Good Samaritan—Take of 98

er cent. alcohol 2 quarts, and add to it the fol-
F ' articles : Oils of sassafras, hemlock,

m

owm

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS. ‘

spirits of turpentine, tinctures of cayenne, cate-
chu, guaicaci, (guac,) and laudanum, of each I
ounce; tincture of myrrh 4 ounces, oil of ori-
ganum 2 ounces, oil of Wintergreen % ounce,
gum camphor 2 ounces, and chloroform 1%
ounces.

LIA/[MEN T, Rheumatic.-——Olive oil, spirits
of camphor, and chloroform, of each 2 ounces;
sassafras oil I teaspoonful. First add the oil of
sassafras to the olive oil, then the spirits of cam-
phor, and shake well before putting in the chlo-
roform, shaking when used, keeping it corked,
as the chloroform evaporates very fast if it is
left open. Apply 3 or 4 times daily, rubbing it
well, and always toward the body.

LUVYMENT, Sore 77aroat.——-Gum camphor,
2 ounces, castile soap shaved fine I drachm, oil
of turpentine I tablespoonful, oil of origanum )4
an ounce, opium % of an ounce, alcohol I pint.
'In a week or 10 days it will be fit for use; then
bathe the parts freely 2 or 3 times daily until re-
lief is obtained.

LIIVI/llErVT for Spinal Afirtz'ons.—Take a.
pint bottle and ut into it oil of origanum,
wormwood, spirits of turpentine, and gum cam-
phor, of each I ounce, and fill it with the best
alcohol.

LIP-SALVE, Camaz’z'on.—Olive oil I 1b.,
alkanet root I ounce or less. Macerate with
heat until the oil is well colored; then add of
white wax 6 ounces, spermaceti 6 ounces, oil of
lavender 30 drops, essence of bergamotte I
drachm.

LIP—SAL VE, Red—I. Olive oil I 1b., alka-

net root 2 ounces or less. Macerate with heat
until the oil is well colored; then add of sper-
maceti 2 ounces, white wax 8 ounces, suet (pre-
pared) 12 ounces. When nearly cold stir in or-
ange-flower water I ounce, oil of lavender % a
drachm.—2. Prepared suet I 1b., prepared lard
I 1b., alkanet root2 ounces. Macerate in a gen-
tle heat until sufficiently colored, then cool a lit-
tle, and stir in of rose water 6 ounces, oil of lav-
ender 10 drops, essence of neroli 10 drops, es-
sence of lemon 10 drops, essence of bergamotte
10 drops.
LIP—SALVE, W/zile.——I. Prepared suet I
1b., prepared lard I lb. Melt, and when cool-
ing stir in rose water 4 ounces, oil of rhodium
2 drops, oil of cloves 5 drops—or other scent to
taste.—2. Olive oil I 1b., spermaceti I 1b., white
wax I 1b., prepared lard I lb. Melt, and while
cooling stir in rose water 8 ounces, essence of
lemon 2 drachms, bergamotte 2 drachms,

LIQUID BLUE, T o Prepara—Take of pure
Prussian blue I part, and gradually add 2 parts
of concentrated hydrochloric acid. Leave the
paste to stand for 24 hours, and then add 9 parts
of water, and bottle it.

LOTIOZV, GONLA UD’S.—Blanched bitter
almonds I ounce, blanched sweet almonds % an
ounce; beat to a paste, add pure water I pint;
mix well, strain through a piece of coarse cloth,
put it into a bottle, and add of corrosive subli-
mate in powder 10 to 12 grains, dissolved in a
teaspoonful or two of spirit of wine, and shake
well. Used as a cosmetic to improve the com-
plexion, and also as a wash for obstinate erup~
tions.

LOT 101V, FRECKLE.——Muriate of ammo~
nia I drachm, spring water I pint, lavenderwa.
ter 2 drachms, apply with a sponge 2 or 3 times
a day.

DRUGGIST AND CHEMIST.

75

 

LOTION of Chlorinated Soda.-—This lotion
is used for purifying the breath, cleansing the
mouth, removing unpleasant odors, etc. Liquid
chlorinated soda I ounce, distilled water about
19 ounces. Mix. A teaspoonful in a glass of

water.

LOTION forfz‘c/u'ng C/zz'lélaz'ns.—Take hy-
drochloric acid I part, and water 8 parts. Mix.
Apply on going to bed. This must not be used
if the skin is broken.

LOZEZVGES, Carminatz'w.—Bicarbonate of
soda. 2 drachms, refined sugar I4 ounces, oil of
peppermint 4 drops; made into lozenges with
mucilage .of tragacanth. Used in flatulency,
heartburn, etc.

LOZEIVGES, Cough—I. Extract of blood-
root, licorice, and black cohosh, of each % of an
ounce; tinctures of ipecac and lobelia, with
laudanum, of each % of an ounce; cayenne,
powdered, 10 grains; pulverized gum arabic and
starch, of each % of an ounce; mix all together,
and add pulverized sugar 3 ounces. If this
should be too dry to roll into lozenges, add a
thick solution of gum arabic to give it that con-
sistence; and if it should be Stet too moist, at
any time, add more sugar. Divide into 320 loz-
enges. Dose—I lozenge 3 to 6 times daily, as
needed—2. A’tatz'ng’r.-—Lactucarium 2 drachms,
ipecacuanha I drachm, squills % drachm, ex-
tract of licorice 2 drachms, sugar 6 ounces.
Made into a mass with mucilage of tragacanth,
and then to be divided into twenty-grain lozenges
for use.

LOZENGES, Gz'nger.——Take 8 lbs. of loaf
sugar in fine powder, and 8 ounces of the best
ground ginger. Mix them into a paste with dis-
solved gum. If gum tragacanth be preferred,
the proportion is I pint of wager to I ounce of
gum; when properly dissolved, it must be fore-
ibly passed through the interstices of a coarse
towel or cloth. I ounce of this dissolved gum
is suflicient for 4 or 5 lbs. of sugar; or I ounce
of dissolved gum Arabic to 12 ounces -of sugar.
Essence may be used instead of powdered gin-
ger, coloring it with safi'ron. A stimulant and
stomachic.

LOZEN GE S, Santam'n.—Santonin 60 grains,
pulverized sugar 5 ounces, mucilage of gum
tragacanth sufficient to make it into a thick paste,
worked carefully together, that the santonin
shall be evenly mixed throughout the whole
mass; then cover up the mortar in which you
have rubbed them, and let it stand from 12 to. I4
hours to temper, at which time they will turn
out better than if done immediately ; divide into
I20 lozenges. Dose—For a child I year old I
lozenge night and morning ; for a child 2 years
old, 2 lozenges; for a child of 4 years old, 3
lozenges; for a child of 8 years old, 4 lozenges;
for a child of 10 years old, or more, 5 to 7 loz-
enges; in all cases to be taken twice daily, and
continuing until the worms start on a voyage of
discovery.

LOZENGES, Steel—Sugar 2 lbs., starch I
1b., carbonate or oxide of iron 6 ounces, pow-
dered cassia 5 ounces. Mix with mucilage.

MANDRAKE, or May Apple.—-This is an
excellent purgative, in doses of from to to 30
grams, or double that quantity, in a gill of wa-
ter; or equal quantities of the mandrake juice
Ind molasses may be mixed, and a tablespoonful
taken every hour or two till it operates. The
Indians gather the root in autumn, when the

 

leaves turn yellow, dry it in the shade, and pul-
verize it for use.

MILK OF ALMONDS.—Take of blanched
Jordan almonds I ounce, blanched bitter almonds -
2 drachms, distilled water % a pint. Make an
emulsion with them, then strain and add gradu.
ally corrosive sublimate (in coarse powder) 15
grains, previously dissolved in % a pint of dis-
tilled water. If necessary add as much more
water as will make the whole measure about I

mt.

p MILK OF ROSES—In making the milk of
roses, the chief object should be to produce a
perfect emulsion, or one at least which, if it sep-
arates after long repose, may be restored to a
homogeneous state by slight agitation. It must
also be recollected that, though other perfumes
ma be and are commonly added to it almost at
wil , the scent of roses should predominate and
form its characteristic one.

ILIILK OF WAX.—White wax and alcohol
equal parts. Mix with heat in a porcelain ves-
sel, then pour it on a slab, grind to a paste with
more alcohol, and as soon as it appears of a per-
fectly even consistence, add water gradually to
the amount of 3 or 4 times the weight of the
wax; grind to a fine emulsion, and strain through
canvaSs.

MIXTURE, C OUGH~Take I teacupful of

molasses, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar;
simmer this over the fire ; then, when taken off,
add 3 teaspoonfuls of paregoric, and as much re-
fined nitre as can be put upon the point'of a
small breakfast knife. Of this mixture take 2
or 3 teaspoonfuls on going to bed, and I or 2
during the day when you have a disposition to
cough.
MIXTURE, Copaz'hz.—Balsam of copaiba
1% ounces, nitric ether I ounce, tincture of
henbane 3 drachms, liquor of potash 2 drachms,
cinnamon water sufficient to make the mixture 8
ounces. Dose—2 tablespoonfuls twice a day in
case of gonorrhea.

MIXTURE, Gout—Wine of colchicum I
ounce, spirit of nitrous ether I ounce, iodide of
potassium 2 scruples, distilled water 2 ounces.
Mix. A teaspoonful in chamomile tea 2 or 3
times a day.

MISTURA sz’fltu: Vim’ Gallici.——Best
brandy and cinnamon water, of each 4 fluid
ounces; the yelks of 2 eggs well beaten; loaf
sugar % an ounce; oil of cinnamon 2 dro 5;
mix. Dose—From % to I fluid ounce, as ofien
as required. This makes both eat and drink.
Of course any other flavoring oils can be used,
if preferred, in place of the cinnamon.

rVITRA TE OFSILVER.—Pure silver 1%
ounces, nitric acid I ounce, diluted with 2 ounces
of water; heat by a sand-bath until ebullition
ceases and the water is expelled; then pour into
moulds. Must be kept from the light.

ODOR OF FLOWERS, To Oélain the.—
The method pursued in the south of France, by
which all the better qualities of pomatum are
obtained, consists in the preparation of a pure
fat or lard, and in impregnating this with the
odoriferous principles of the flowers. The pu- ,
rifying of the lard has to be done with the ut-
most care, as almost everything depends on it.
The lard is for this purpose washed on an in-
clined board with water, rubbing and working it
all the while by means of a smooth, large stone,
until the water runs off pure and clear. This

76

fat is then filled into shallow pans on which are
thrown the flowers freshly cut; they are re-
moved after 12 or 24 hours and replaced by fresh
ones, until the lard is considered saturated. The
pomatum is then filled into pots or bottles, and
the bottles are tightly corked. If the fat is
slightly rancid, a very much larger amount of
flowers is required to render it fragrant, and the
odor never attains that fineness and delicacy that
it does with pure lead.

OIL, ESSENTIAL, To Extractfrom Flow-
}ra—Take any flowers desired, which stratify
with common salt, and put them in a clean
earthen glazed pot. When thus filled to the
top, cover it well and carry it to the cellar. 40
days afterwards put a crape over a pan, and
empty the whole to strain the essence from the
flowers by pressure. Bottle the essence and ex-
pose it 4 or 5 weeks in the sun, and dew of the
evening, to purify. A single drop of this es-
sence, if rightly prepared, is enough to perfume
a quart of water.

OIL, BRITISH—Linseed and turpentine
oils of each 2 ounces, oils of amber and juniper
of each 4 ounces, Barbadoes tar 3 ounces, sen-
eca oil 1 ounce. ix.

OIL 0F HARLEM—Sublimed or flowers
of sulphur and oil of amber of each 2 ounces,
linseed oil I 1b., spirits of turpentine sufficient
to reduce all to the consistence of thin molasses.
Boil the sulphur in the linseed oil until it is dis-
solved, then add the oil of amber and turpen-
tine.

OIL, HAIR, (Rosemary.)—Take castor oil
1 pint, sweet oil % pint, lard oil % pint, alcohol
a tablespoonful. Perfumed with rosemary.

OIL, HAIR.—(Phalon’s.) Cocoanut oil,
perfumed with oil of almonds.

OIL, Rowland ’r [Madman—Take sweet oil 4
ounces, cantharides 30 drops, oil of rose 5 drops,
oil of bergamotte and oil of lemon of each 30
drops, and alkanet suflicient to color it.

OILS, KING Oil—Burning fluid I pint, oils
of cedar, hemlock, sassafras and origanum of
each 2 ounces, carbonate of ammonia pulverized
I ounce; mix. To use—Apply freely to the
nerve and gums around the tooth, and to the
face in neuralgic pains, by wetting brown paper
and laying on the parts—~not too long, for fear of
blistering; to the nerves of teeth by lint.

OIL 0F CASSIA.—Finest oil of cloves 3
parts, ground cassia I part. Pour the oil warm
on the cassia, macerate for 3 or 4 days or more,
and then strain with expression.

OIL 0F RHODIUAL—This oil is derived
from a species of Rhodoriza; very fluid and
limpid; pale yellow; soon darkens by age and
exposure; tastes bitter and aromatic; has a mod-
ified odor of roses. Chiefly used as a substitute
for ottar of roses in cheap perfumery, and also
to adulterate it. Oil of sandal wood is very fre-
quently sold for it.

OIL 0F ROSES, (fir the Hair. )—Fine olive
oil I pint, otto of roses I6 drops, oil of rose-
mary % a drachm. If required to be red, color
with alkanet root, and strain before adding the
otto.

OIL OF ORANGE FLOWERS—Orange
flowers I part, blanched almonds bruised 2 parts,
olive oil 1 part. Mix, and let them remain to-
gether for a week, then express the oil. More
flowers may be used to increase the perfume, if
desired.

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

011. OF SPIKE.—-The genuine oil of spike
is made from the lavendula rpiaz, (broad-leaved
1avender,) but the commercial oil of spike is al-
ways made by taking the rock oil, and adding 2
ounces of spirits of turpentine to each pint.

OIL OF T URPEN T INE, for Punfi/z'ng'
Purposea—However carefully the oil of turpen-
tine may have been distilled, it always leaves af-
ter evaporation a disagreeable odor, firmly ad-
hering to the goods that have been treated with
it. The same is the case with benzine and the
lighter petroleum oils. This may be obviated,
according to Bremer, by distillation over tannin.
Articles treated with oil of turpentine that has
been distilled in this way, are heated to 150°,
when they lose every trace of odor. Bremer
adds that this preparation is less inflammable,
cheaper, and more agreeable to the workman
than benzine.

OIL CREAM Cod Liven—Pick out a % or
an ounce of nice, clean pieces of gum tragacanth,
and steep them in a pint of water for 24 hours,
stirring or shaking up occasionally so as to in-
sure a fine, even mucilage. Now mix a pint of
oil with a pint of this mucilage, and put them
into a bottle capable of holding more than a.
quart, so as to give good “ shaking room,” and
give a good shaking, until the particles of the
oil are thoroughly divided. They cannot get to-
gether again, even if the mixture stands several
days. To guard against any souring, add a tea-
spoonful of best brandy, and I or 2 drops of es-
sence of lemon, almonds, vanilla, or whatever
flavor is most desired. The brandy may be sub-
stituted by 20 drops of spirit of wine.

OINTMENT, CREAM—Obtain a pint of
pure cream, let it simmer over the fire till it re-
sembles butter, and forms a thick, oily substance,
which may be used as ointment for fresh or old
wounds, cracked lips or hands.

011V T MEN T, GREEN—Honey and bees- '
wax each % a 1b., spirits of turpentine 1 ounce,
Wintergreen oil and laudanum each 2 ounces,
finely powdered verdigris % of an ounce, lard
1% lbs. ; mix by a stove fire, in a copper kettle,
heating slowly.

OINTAIENT, GL YCERINE.—Starch 3
parts, glycerine 10 parts. The starch, finely
pulverized, is digested for about an hour with the
glycerine, at the heat of a water-bath.

OI/VTMENT, Hollozuay’:.—Take butter 12
ounces, beeswax 4 ounces, yellow resin 3 ounces.
Melt, and add vinegar of cantharides I ounce;
evaporate, and add Canada balsam I ounce, oil
of mace I drachm, and balsam of Peru 15
drops.

011V TMEN T, I T CHI—Sweet oil 1 1b., suet
I 1b., alkanet root 2 ounces. Melt and macerate
until sufficiently colored, and then add powdered
nitre 3 ounces, powdered alum 3 ounces, pow-
dered sulphate of zinc 3 ounces, powdered ver-
milion sufficient to color, and oil of origanum
sufficient to perfume.—2. Carbonate of potash 1
ounce, rose water 1 ounce, vermilion r drachm,
sulphur II ounces, oil of bergamotte I drachm,
lard II ounces. Mix.-——3. Unsalted butter 1 1b.,
Burgundy pitch 2 ounces, spirits of tur entine 2
ounces, pulverized red precipitate 1; ounces;
melt the pitch and add the butter, stirring well
together; then remove from the fire, and when
a little cool add the spirits of turpentine, and
lastl add the precipitate, stirring the mixture
unti cold.

u

DRUGGIST AND CHEMIST.

 

PRE CIPI TA TE, RED, for Old Sores.—
Red precipitate % ounce, sugar of lead % ounce,
burnt alum I ounce, white vitriol % ounce, or a
little less; all to be very finely pulverized ; have
mutton tallow made warm I lb. ; stir all in, and
stir until cool.

OIN T AIEN T, MARSHMALLO PK—Yel-
low resin and yellow wax each 56 lbs. Melt
and reduce them to a proper consistence with
rape oil, then add of thick mucilage I gallon;
turmeric to color if required. Stir until it be-
comes cold.

011V TAIEZV T, PlLE.—Powdered nut-gall
2 drachms, camphor I drachm, melted wax I
ounce, tincture of opium 2 drachms. Mix.

OI/VTMENT, SISSOIV’S.—-Best brandy %
apint, turpentine I gill, camphor gum I ounce,
beef’s gall % a pint, neats-foot oil I pint; mix.
Excellent for bruises or swellings of long stand-
In .
g012V TMEN T, S TRA M 02V! UM ——Take of
the leaves of the stramonium, while yet green,
about I bushel, and place them in a suitable
iron kettle over a slow fire. Put in a few of the
leaves at a time, washing them as you keep ad-
ding, until a pulpy mass results, when add lard
5 lbs., and stew to a crisp; then strain and box
for use. Or take a drachm of the soft extract,
andi rub it into an ointment with I ounce of
ar . .

011V T MEN T OF BELLA DONNA .—Ex-
tract of belladonna I drachm, lard I ounce, and
mix. Used to allay the pain of rheumatism, etc.

0P1 UAI, POWELL’S.—Take opium I part,
spirit 9 parts. Macerate until the spirit will
take up no more, decant, and reserve the tinc-
ture; then pour 6 parts of water on the residu-
um and repeat the process. Strain and mix the
2 solutions; next put them into a retort and dis
til over, spirit 9 parts, and evaporate the remain-
der to a proper consistence.

OPODELDOC, Liquid—The best brandy, I
quart; warm it and add gum camphor I ounce,
sal ammoniac and oil of wormwood, of each %
ounce; oils of origanum and rosemary, of each
% an ounce; when the oils are dissolved by the
aid of the heat, add 6 ounces of soft soap.

OTTO OF ROSES—Fill a large glazed
earthen jar with rose leaves, carefully separated
from the cups; pour upon them spring water,
'ust sufficient to cover them, and set the jar with
IS contents in the ,sun for 2 or 3 days, taking it
under cover at night. At the end of the third
or fourth day, small particles of yellow oil will
be seen floating on the surface of the water, and
which, in the course of a week, will have in-
creased to a thin scum. The scum is the otto of
roses ; take it up with a little cotton tied to the
end of a stick, and squeezeit into a phial.

OX Y GEZV, Met/zed of Preparing—Take a
strong solution of chloride of lime, and gently
heat it with only a trace of freshly prepared
peroxide of cobalt; a stream of oxygen is thus
evolved, and chloride of calcium is formed.‘ The
evolution of the gas is very regular when the
liquid is heated to 70 or 80°. All the oxygen is
given 011', no chlorine being liberated. The
chief point is to use a perfectly clear solution of
chloride of lime; if a milky or thick solution be
used, it will froth.

PAIN—KILLER, Perry Davir’.——AlcoholI
quart, gum guaiac I ounce, gums myrrh and
amphor, and Cayenne, (pulverized,) of each

 

77
% ounce. Mix. Shake occasionally for a week
or Io days, and filter or let settle for use. Ap.

ply freely to surface pains, or it may be taken in
teaspoon doses for internal pains, and repeat ac-
cording to necessities.

PAIN EXTRA C T OR.—Spirits of ammonia
I ounce, laudanum I ounce, oil of organum I
ounce, mutton tallow % a lb. ; combine the ar-
ticles with the tallow when it is nearly cool.

PAREGORIC.—Best opium % a drachm;
dissolve it in about 2 tablespoons of boiling wa-
ter ; then add benzoic acid % a drachm, oil of
aniseed % of a fluid drachm, clarified honey I
ounce, camphor gum I scruple, 76 per cent. al-
cohol II fluid ounces, distilled water 4 fluid
ounces, macerate (keep warm) for 2 weeks.
Dose—For children 5 to 20 drops, adults I to 2
teaspoons.

PAPER, F UMIGA T [Nd—Take sheets of
light cartridge paper, and dip them into a solu-
tion of alum—say, alum I ounce, water I pint.
After they are thoroughly moistened, let them
be well dried; upon one side of this paper spread
a mixture of equal parts of gum benzoin, oliba-
num, and either balm of Tolu or Peruvian bal-
sam, or the benzoin may be used alone. To
spread the gum, etc., it is necessary that they be
melted in' an earthenware vessel and poured
thinly over the paper, finally smoothing the sur-
face with a hot spatula. When required for use,
slips of this paper are held over a candle or a
lamp, in order to evaporate the odorous matter,
but not to ignite it. The alum in the paper pre-
vents it to a certain extent from burning.

PASTE, Gemzan.———Blanched sweet almonds
I 11)., pea-meal 2 lbs., butter 3 ounces, salTron 4
grains, the yelks of 2 eggs, honey suflicient to
make a paste, which must be passed through a
sieve. Used to feed larks, nightingales, and
other insectivorous singing birds.

PASTE, P/zorplzorour.—Put into a Florence
flask I drachm 0f phosphorous and I ounce of
rectified spirits. Dip the flask into hot water
until the phosphorous is melted, then cork the
flask and agitate it until the contents are cold.
Pour off the spirit, and mix the phosphorous
with 1% ounces of lard, then add a mixture of
flour 5 ounces, sugar or cheese 1% ounces, and
make the whole into a paste with a little water.
Used to destroy vermin.

PASTILES, Fzmzz’gatz'ng.——I. Benzoin I
drachm, cascarilla % of a drachm, myrrh I scru-
ple, oils of nutmegs and cloves of each Io drops,
nitrate of potash % of a drachm, charcoal 6
drachms ; mix with mucilage of tragacanth.—2.
Benzoin 2 ounces, balsam of Tolu and yellow
sandal wood of each % of an ounce, laudanum
I drachm, nitre 2 drachms, charcoal 6 ounces;
mix with mucilage 3f tragacanth.—3. Santal
wood in owder I 1b., gum benzoin I 1b., gum
Tolu % b., otto of Santal, cassia and cloves, of
each 3 drachms; nitrate of potass I ounce, mu-
cilage or tragacanth sufficient to make the whole
into a stiff aste.

PASTILES, MOUTII, fbr Perfumz'ng' the
Breath—I, Chocolate powder and ground cof-
fee each I ounce, prepared charcoal I ounce, su-
gar I ounce, vanilla (pulverized with the sugar)
I ounce, and sufficient mucilage to mix. Make
into lozenges of any form, 6 or 8 to be used ev-
ery day to disinfect the breath.-—2. Catechu 7
.drachms, orris powder 40 grains, sugar 3 ounces,
oil of rosemary, (or of cloves, peppermint, o:

78

cinnamon,) 4 drops. Mix, and roll flat on an
Oiled marble slab, and cut into very small lozen-
ges.—3. (For Disinfecting t/z: Breath.) —-Dry
chloride of lime 2 drachms, sugar 8 ounces, and

m tragacanth I drachm; carmine 2 grains.

orm into small lozenges.

PEA U D’ESPA GIVE.—-Peau d’Espagne, or
Spanish skin, is nothing more than highly per-
fumed leather. Good and sound pieces of wash
leather are to be steeped in a mixture of ottos, in
which are dissolved some odoriferous gum res-
ins, thus: Otto of neroli, otto of rose, santal, of
each % an ounce; otto of lavender, verbeha,
bergamotte, of each a K of an ounce; otto of
cloves and cinnamon, of each 2 drachms; with
any others thought fit. In this mixture dissolve
about 2 ounces of gum benzoin; now place the
skin to steep in it for a day or so, then hang it
over a line to dry. A paste is now to be made
by rubbing in a mortar I drachm of civet with I
drachm of grain musk, and enough solution of
gum acacia or gum tragacantha to give it a spread-
ing consistence; a little of any of the ottos that
may be lett from the steep stirred in with the
civet, etc., greatly assists in making the whole
of an equal body; the skin, being cut up into
pieces of about 4 inches square, is then to be
spread over, plaster-fashion, with the last-named
compost; 2 pieces being put together, having
the civet plaster inside of them, are then to be
placed between sheets of paper, weighed or
pressed, and left to dry thus for a week; finally,
each double skin, now called peau d’Espagne, is
to be enveloped in some pretty silk or satin, and
finished off to the taste of the vender. Skin or
leather thus prepared will evolve a pleasant odor
for years.

PERFUME 0F FLOWERS, To Extract.—
Procure a quantity of the petals of any flower
which has an agreeable flavor; card thin layers
of cotton wool, which dip into the finest Flor-
ence oil ; sprinkle a small quantity of fine salt on
the flowers, and place layers of cotton and flow-
ers alternately, until an earthen or wide-mouthed
glass vessel is quite full. Tie the top close with
a bladder, and lay the vessel in a south aspect,
ex osed to the sun, and in 15 days,when opened,
afiagrant oil may be squeezed away from the
whole mass, and but little inferior (if roses are
used) to the dear and highly valued otto or odor
of roses.

PERFU/l-IE for Sackets.—Orns root in pow-
der I 1b., musk 12 grains, essence of lavender I
drachm, essence of ambergris I drachm, essence
of bergamotte % a drachm, essence of lemon %
a drachm.——2. Take any quantity of pure starch
in powder, color it with a little finely-powdered
rose-pink, and perfume it with otto of roses, oil
of rosemary, lavender, and neroli, letting the
rose predominate—3. % of a lb. lavender flow-
ers, % of an ounce of dried thyme, % of an
ounce of dried mint, % of an ounce of cloves,
% of an ounce of caraway seeds, I ounce of fine
salt. The lavender flowers must be rubbed from
the stalk, the thyme and mint reduced to pow-
der, and the cloves and caraway seeds bruised in
a mortar. The whole should then be mixed
with the salt, which must be well dried before it
is used. When the ingredients have been thor-
oughly mixed, the compound may be put into
silk or muslin bags for use.

PERFUME Powder for Boxes and Drawcrr.
~I. Coriander powder, Florentine orris pow-

 

DICTIOIVARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

der, powdered rose leaves, powdered sweet-
scented flag-root of each 2 ounces; lavender
flowers powdered 4 ounces, musk I scruple,

owder of sandal-wood I drachm. Mix.—2.

ake of cloves, caraway seeds, nutmeg, mace,
cinnamon, and Tonquin beans, of each I ounce;
then add as much Florentine orris root as will
equal the other ingredients put together. Grind
the whole well together, and then put it in little
bags among your clothes, etc.

PERFUME for leer.—Oil of lavender 20
drops, neroli 10 drops, essence of musk 5 drops,
otto of roses 2 drops, alcohol 2 ounces. Mix.

PILLS, Ague.~—Quinine 20 grains, Dover’s
powders, 10 grains, subcarbonate of iron 10
grains; mix with mucilage of gum Arabic and
form into 20 pills. Dose-2 each hour, com-
mencing 5 hours before the chill should set in.
Then take I night and morning until all of them -
are taken.

PILLS; Anti-Bilious.—Aloes 28 parts, colo-
cynth 12 parts, rhubarb 7 parts, myrrh and
scammony of each 3% parts, ipecacuanha 3
parts, cardamom seed 2 parts, soft soap 9 parts,
oil of jumper 7 parts, and treacle q. 5. Divide
into 4-grain pills, of which 2 or 3 are a dose.

PILL.of Alon, Compozmd.—Socotrine aloes
in powder 1 ounce, extract of gentian % ounce,
oil of caraways 40 drops, and treacle a sufficient
quantity. Beat together to a pill mass. Purga-
tive, stomachic. Used in habitual costiveness.
Dose—5 to 20 grains. Aloes are more easily
powdered by adding 2 or 3 drops of olive oil to
each ounce.

PILL (y‘ Aloe: wit/z Myrr/z.—-Powdered So-
cotrine aloes % ounce, saffron, powdered myrrh
and soft soap, of each 2 drachms, and 0t treacle
a suflicient quantity. Beat together to a pill
mass. Purgative emenagogue. Used in chlo-
rosis and amenorrhea. Dose—5 to 15 grains.

PILL qf Aloer wit/z Saap.—Extract of Bar-
badoes aloes owdered, soft soap, and extract of
licorice equalpparts, and of treacle a sufficient
quantity. Beat the aloes with the soap, add the
other ingredients, and make a pill mass. Pur-
gative. Dose— to 15 grains.

PILLS, Bra7zd7cth’5—Take 2 lbs. of aloes, I
lb. of gamboge, 4 ounces of extract of colocynth,
% a lb. of castile soap, 2 fluid drachms of oil of
peppermint, and I fluid drachm of cinnamon.
Mix, and form into pills.

PILLS, Caréonaz‘e qf Iron.,—Sulphate of iron
4 ounces, carbonate of soda 5 ounces, clarified
honey 2% ounces, of syrup and boiling water a
suflicient quantity. Dissolve the sulphate of
iron and carbonate of soda each in a'pint of wa-
ter, and to each solution add a fluid ounce of
syrup; then mix the two solutions in a bottle
just arge enough to ntain them, close it accu-
rately with a stopper, and set it by that the car-
bonate of iron may subside. Pour off the su-
pernatant fluid; and, having washed the precip-
tate with warm water, sweetened with syrup, in
the pr'oportion of a fluid ounce of the latter to a
pint of the former, until the washings no longer
have a saline taste, place it upon a flannel cloth,
and express as much of the water as possible;
then immediately mix it with the honey. Lastly,
heat the mixture, by means of a water~bath, un-
til it attains a pilular consistence.

PILLS, Cal/zartz'c.—Aloes and gamboge of
each I ounce, mandrake and blood-root with
gum myrrh, of each % ounce; gum amplwr

 

 

DRUGGIST AND CHEMIST.

and Cayenne of each I% drachms, and ginger 4
ounces; all to be finely pulverized and thor-
oughly mixed with thick mucilage (made by put-
ting a little water upon equal quantities of gum
Arabic and gum tragacanth) into pill mass ; then
formed into common-sized pills. Dose—2 to 4
pills, according to the robustness of the patient.
PILLS, Ckalydeate, for Leucorr/zea.—Sul-
hate of iron I scruple, balsam of copaiba and
'corice powder to mix. Divide into 40 pills.
Dose—3 or 4, 3 times daily.

ILLS, C/mmomz'le.—Aloes I2 grains, extract
chamomile 36 grains, oil of chamomile 3 drops ;
make into I2 pills; take 2 every night, or twice
0. day.

PILLS, Cough—Of extract of hyoscyamus,
balm of Gilead buds, with pulverized ipecac or
lobelia, and balsam of fir, each % oz. ; oil of an-
ise a few drops to form into common-sized pills.

' Dose—I or 2 pills, 3 or 4 times daily.

PILLS, Digestive—Rhubarb 2 ounces, ipe-
cacuanha % ounce, Cayenne pepper % ounce,
soap % ounce, ginger % ounce, gamboge %
ounce. Mix, and divide into 4-grain pills.

PILLS, Di;mer.—Aloes 20 grains, ginger %
drachm; add syrup sufficient to mix. Divide
into 20 pills. I to be taken daily before dinner.

PILL,Emmeuagague.—Precipitated carbonate
of iron and gum myrrh of each 2 drachms, aloes
and tincture of Spanish flies of each I drachm,
and oil of savin I drachm; all to be pulverized,
and made into 100 pills by using thick gum so-
lution. Dose—I pill, from I to 3 times daily.

PILL, Female Laxativc.--Aloes, macrotin,
and cream of tartar, of each 2 drachms; podo-
phylin and ground ginger I drachm each; make
Into common-sized pills by using I5 or 20 drops
of oil of peppermint, and a thick solution of
gum Arabic mucilage. Dose—I pill at bedtime,
or 2 if found necessary, and sufficiently often
to keep the bowels just in a solvent condition,
but not less often than once a week.

PILLS, for Gravel—Castile soap 8 parts,
caustic soda4 parts, oil of tartar to mix. Di-
vide into 3-grain pills, I to be taken every 2 or 3
hours.

PILLS, Hollmay’:.—Aloes 4 parts, myrrh,
jalap, and ginger, of each 2 parts, and mucilage
to mix.

PILL of Iran.-—-Powdered myrrh 2 drachms,
carbonate of soda,sulphate of iron and treacle,
of each I drachm., In a warm vessel rub the
myrrh with the soda, add the iron, and rub
again; mix in the treacle, and form a mass.
Tonic. Used in chlorosis. Dose—From 5 to 10
grams.

PILL, Liver.—-Leptandrin 40 grains, podo-
phyllin and Cayenne 30 grains each, sanguina~
rin, iridin, and ipecac, I 5 grains each; see that
all are pulverized and well mixed; then form into
pill mass by using % of a drachm of the soft
extract of mandrake and a few drops of anise
oil, and then roll out into 3-grain pills.

PILLS flzr Oartrztcteri Menstruation—Take
sulphate of iron 30 grains, potassa (subcarb.) 30
grams, white sugar 30 grains, myrrh I drachm.
Make them into 3-grain pills, 2 to be taken 3
times a day when there is no fever present.

PILLS to Promott Menstrual Secretz'on.—I.
Take pills of aloes and myrrh I drachm, com-
pound iron pills 70 grains. Mix and form into
25 pills. Dose—2 pills twice a day.—2. Take
compound galbanum pill I drachm; Socotrine

 

79

aloes I drachm. Mix. Dose—2 pills, twice a
a .

PILL, Mmour.—Alcoholic extract of the Ig-
natia Amara (St. Ignatius bean) 30 grains, pow-
dered gum Arabic 10 grains. Make into 40
pills. Dose—I pill to be taken an hour after
breakfast, and I an hour before retiring at night.

PILL, Rlzubarb.—Fine powdered rhubarb 4
drachms, powdered aloes 3 drachms, powdered
myrrh 2 drachms, soft soap % drachm, oil of
caraway 15 drops, and of treacle a sufficient
quantity. Mix the powders, add the other in-
gredients, and form a mass. Stomachic, pur-
gative. Dose—5 to 20 grains.

PILLS fbr Sic/e HtaddtllE.—-I drachm of
castile soap, 40 grains of rhubarb, 20 drops oil
of juniper, and syrup of ginger enough to form
20 pills. Take 2 or 3 occasionally.

PILLS for Shortness qf Breath—Take % of
an ounce of powder of elecampane root, % of
an ounce of powder of licorice, as much flower
of brimstone and powder of aniseed, and 2
ounces of sugar candy powdered. Make all into
pills, with a sufficient quantity of tar; take 4
large pills when going to rest.

PILLS, To Sugar Coat.—Pills, to be sugar-
coated, must be very dry, otherwise they will
shrink away from the coating, and leave it a
shell easily crushed off. When they are dry you
will take starch, gum Arabic, and white sugar,
equal parts, rubbing them very fine in a marble
mortar, and if damp they must be dried before
rubbing together; then put the powder into a.
suitable pan, or box, for shaking; now put a
few pills into a small tin box having a cover, and
pour on them just a little simple syrup, shaking
well to moisten the surface only; then throw
into the box of powder, and keep in motion un-
til completely coated, dry and smooth.

If you are not very careful, you will get too
much syrup upon the pills; if you do, put in
more, and be quick about it to *prevent moisten-
ing the pill too much, getting them into the
powder as soon as possible.

PINK SA UCERS.—— Safiiower orcarthamus,
(washed,) 8 ounces, subcarbonate of soda 3
ounces, water 2 gallons. Macerate, strain, and
add French chalk (scraped fine with Dutch
rushes) 3 lbs., and precipitate the color on it
with tartaric acid, a sufficient quantity.

PLA S T ER, Com.—Yellow wax I 1b., Venice
turpentine 2 ounces, verdigris I ounce; melt to-
gether and spread on leather.

PLAS T ER, Court.———Soak bruised isinglass
in a little warm water for 24 hours ; then evapo-
rate nearly all the water by gentle heat ; dissolve
the residue in a little proof spirits of wine, and
strain the whole through a piece of open linen.
The strained mass should be a stiff jelly when
cool. Now extend a piece of silk on a wooden
frame, and fix it tight with tacks or pack-thread.
Melt the jelly, and apply to the silk thinly and
evenly with a badger hair brush. A second
coating must be applied when the first has dried,
When both are dry, cover the whole surface
with coatings of balsam of Peru, applied in this
way. Plaster thus made is very pliable, and
never breaks.

PLAS T ER, Irritating—Tar I 1b., Bur-
gundy pitch % ounce, white pine turpentine I
ounce, rosin 2 ounces. Boil the tar, rosin and
gum together a short time, and then remove
from the fire, and stir in finely pulverized mans

8o

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

drake root, blood root, poke root, and Indian
turni , of each I ounce.

P A S T ER, Mustard—Take a piece of waste
linen, and, if crumpled, iron it smooth; or pa-
per will do. Procure a small quantity of black
mustard seed, and bruise it to a coarse powder,
in apestle and mortar or otherwise. Be par-
ticular not to have it too fine. Spread over
the linen a thin solution of gum,‘and sprinkle
the powder equally over it. Dry in a warm
place. When wanted, plasters may be cut any
size or shape ; and when applied should be mo.
mentarily dipped in tepid water, and tied over
the affected part with a bandage. These plasters
are more simple, cleanly and effective than the
ordinary mustard poultices.

PLA 5 T ER, Pz'tc/z.———Burgundy pitch 6 parts,
yellow resin 8 parts, yellow wax 3 parts, lard 7
'parts, turpentine I part, palm oil I part, linseed
oil I part. ix.

PLAS T ER, Poor Man’sn—Take of beeswax
I ounce, tar 3 ounces, resin 3 ounces; to be
melted together, and spread on paper or muslin.

PLASTER, Rheumatic.——% lb. of resin, and
% lb. of sulphur; melt them bya slow fire;
then add 1 ounce of Cayenne pepper, and % of
an ounce of camphor gum; stir well till mixed,
and temper with neats-foot oil.

PLAS T ER, Sirengt/zming.—Litharge plas.
ter 24 parts, white resm 6 parts, ellow wax and
olive Oil of each 3 parts, and re oxide of iron
8 parts. Let the oxide be rubbed with oil, and

» the other ingredients added melted, and mix the
whole well together. This is an excellent plas-
ter for relaxation of the muscles and weakness of
the joints arising from sprains and bruises. The
plaster, after being spread over leather, should

e cut into strips 2 inches wide, and strapped
firml round the joint.

1’ ASTER, Styptic.—The property of chlo-
ride of iron to stop bleeding is well known, but
the inconvenience of carrying it about often pre-
vents its application when wanted. The French
have a way of preparing a paper saturated with
it that answers every purpose, and can easily be
transported. This paper is immersed in a liquid
prepared as follows: 1 lb. of finely pulverized
gum benzoin, I lb. of alum, and 4 gallons of
water are boiled in a well-tinned vessel, and fil-
tered after cooling. The paper is well saturated
with this mixture, and when it is dry a tolerably
concentrated solution of chloride of iron is spread
over it with a brush. It can be kept indefinitely
when protected by wax cloth, and is admirably
adapted for stopping the bleeding of small flesh
wounds.

PUMA DE, Castor OiL—Castor oil 4 ounces,
prepared lard 2 ounces, white wax 2 drachms,

ergamotte 2 drachms, oil of lavender 20 drops.
Melt the fat together, and on cooling add the
scents, and stir till cold.

POMADE, Cream.—Melt together I drachm
each ot white wax and spermaceti, and add oil
of sweet “almonds 2 ounces; pour it into a warm
mortar, and gradually stir in I ounce of rose or
other perfumed water, and I drachm of tincture
of Tolu.

POAIADE, Marrow—Beef marrow I ounce,
castor oil % of an ounce, tincture of cantharides
I drachm, essential oil of bitter almonds and of
lemon of each 12 dro s. This will be found
very beneficial if the hair should show symptoms
of falling off.

 

'POMADE, Tramparmt.—I. Take of castor .
011 I 1b., spermaceti % 1b., and suflicient of any
destred perfume.—2. Fatty oil of almonds 2 lbs .,
Spermaceti % of a 1b., oil of lemon 3 ounces.
The spermaceti is melted in a water bath, the
oils are then added, and the heat kept up until a
uniform mass is obtained, in which no floating
particles of spermaceti can be distinguished.
The pomade is then poured into glasses; if it is
desired to obtain the pomade crystallized, the
glasses must be heated beforehand, and cooled
down very slowl .

. POM/10E DYE, for the Haz’r.-—Nitrate of
Silver I part, nitric acid 2 parts, iron filings 2
parts. Mix, and let them stand together tor4
or 5 hours, then pour them on oatmeal 2 parts.
Next add lard 3 parts, and mix well together.

POMA TUM, Black Stick—Prepared lard,
melted, with one.third in winter, and one-half
its weight in summer, of wax, and colored with
powdered ivory-black, and strained through tam-
my, or any substance that will permit the fine
particles of ivory‘black to pass through. Stir it
constantly, and when it begins to thicken pour it
into paper moulds. '

POMA T UAI, East India—Take suet 7 lbs.,
lard 7lbs., beeswax I lb. Melt, then add es-
sence of lemon 4 ounces, gum benzoin 3 ounces,
musk 2 scruples, oil of cloves 25 drops, oil 01
rhodium 25 drops. Mix well.

POMA T UM, Marrow.-'—Purified lard 4 lbs.,
purified suet 2 lbs., otto of lemon I ounce, otto
of bergamotte I ounce, otto of cloves 3 drachms.
Melt the greases, then beat them up with a whisk
or flat wooden spatula for a % of an hour or
more; as the grease cools, minute vessels of air
are inclosed by the pomatun, which not only in-
crease the bulk of the mixtures, but impart ape-
culiar mechanical aggregation, rendering the po-
matum light and spongy; in this state it is ob-
vious that it fills out more profitably than other-
wrse.

POMA T UM P/zilamme.—VVhite wax 10
ounces, fresh rose oil 1 1b., fresh acacia oil %
1b., fresh jasmine oil % 1b., fresh fleur d’orange
oil I lb_, fresh tuberose oil I lb. Melt the wax
in the oils by a water-bath at the lowest possible
temperature. Stir the mixture as it cools; do
not pour out the philocome until it is nearly cool
enough to set; let the jars, bottles, or pots into
which it is filled for sale be slightly warmed, or
at least of the same temperature as the philo-
come, otherwise the bottles chill the material as
it is poured in, and make it appear of an uneven
texture.

POMA T UM Rosa—Of prepared lard I6
ounces, prepared suet 2 ounces; melt with a
gentle heat, and add 2 ounces of otto of water,
and 6 drops of otto of roses. Beat them well to-
gether, and pour into pots before it is cold. For
making jessamine, violet, and orange pomade,
put the same quantity of water, and I drachm of
the re uired essence.

PO OLOGICAL TABLE ; or, Rule: fin
Administering Medicines, [lat/ing- referent: to
Age and Sean—For an adult, (a person. of 40
years) the dose is allowed to be about I drachm,

60 grams. .
Those at 20 years, 2-3 of a drachm, 40 grams.
(6 13 a 1-2 a 30 u
‘6 7 H 1-3 6‘ 20 N
M 4 u 1-4 H 15 I!

u 3 M 1-6 at 10 u

DRUGGIST AND CHEMIST.

81

 

Those at 2 years, 1-8 of a drachm, 7 to 8 grains.
3‘ I 6‘ I_12 It 1‘
For babes, under I year, the dose should go

down by months, at the same rate as by years,

for those over a year.

Again, for persons in advanced life, say from
60 years, the dose must begin to lessen about 5
grains, and, from that on, 5 grains for each ad-
ditional Io years.

Females, however, need a little less, generally,
than males.

The above rules hold good in all medicines
except castor oil, the proportion of which cannot
be reduced so much, and opium and its various
preparations, which must be reduced, generally,
In a little greater proportion.

POULTICE, Clzarcoal.—Linseed meal % of
3. 1b.. charcoal powder 2 ounces, hot water suffi-
cient to give it the necessary consistence. This
poultice is highly antiseptic—that is to say, it

as great power in cleansing ulcers, and correct-
ing a tendency to mortification.

POUL T ICE, Goulard’s.—Take a drachm
and a half of extract of lead, rectified spirit of
wine 2 ounces, water 12 ounces, and bread or
cracker crumbs sufficient to make the whole into
a proper consistence. This poultice is an excel-
lent application to reduce swelling and inflamma-
tion, and to allay irritation.

POULTICE, Hemlock—Pour 2 pints of
water on 2 ounces of hemlock leaves, boil it
down to a pint, and add as much linseed meal as
may be necessary for the due consistency of the
poultice. This is an excellent application to
cancerous and other malignant sores. It greatly
diminishes the existing pain. The fresh herb
forms the best poultice.

POULT ICE, Yawn—Flour 1 1b., yeast of
beer % of a pint. Mix, and expose the mixture
to a gentle heat till it begins to swell, when it is
ready for use. This poultice is well adapted as
an application to painful, foul, or gangrenous ul-
cers. It is a gentle stimulant to such ulcerations,
corrects any tendency to mortification, cleanses
the sore, and removes the fetid odor.

POWDER, Ague.——Quinine 10 grains, cap-
sicum 4 grains; mix and divide into 3 powders.
Directions—Take I about 4 hours before the
chill, I about 2 hours before the chill, and the
third I hour before the chill should commence.

POWDER, Compoxition.—Bayberry bark 2
lbs., hemlock bark I 1b., ginger root I 1b., Cay-
enne pepper 2 ounces, cloves 2 ounces ; all very
finely pulverized and well mixed. Dose—One-
half of a teaspoon of it, and a spoon of sugar;
put them into a tea-cup, and pour it half full of

oiling water ; let it stand a few minutes, then
fill the cup with hot water, and drink freely.

POWDERS, Condition.——Black antimony 4
ounces, flour of sulphur 2 ounces, bean flour or
barley meal % of a lb. A tablespoonful to be
given with the feed—2. Sulphur 2 lbs., fenu-
greek 4 lbs., cream of tartar 1 lb., licorice I 1b.,
nitre I 1b., black antimony % of a 1b., gentian
I of a 1b., aniseed % of a 1b., common salt I

b. Dose—1 ounce daily for 2 or 3 weeks.

P0 WDERS, Dowr’n—Ipecacuanha in pow-
der I drachm, opium in powder I drachm, salt-
petre in powder I ounce. The above ingredi-
ents should be reduced to a very fine powder.
Dose—For an adult from IO to 20 grains.

POWDER, Filten'ng.——Fuller’s earth, puri-
fied and powdered, mixed with animal charcoal.

Used to filter oils, etc., and to render various
liquids whiter.

P0 WDERS, Lemonade.—White sugar 36
drachms, carbonate of soda 4 drachms, essence
of lemon 15 drops; divide into 12 blue papers.
In 12 white papers divide 6 drachms of tartaric
acid. Mix the first well in water, and add the
last. Each powder contains 3 drachms of su-
gar, 20 grains of soda, 2 drops of essence of
lemon, and 30 grains of acid. Pleasant refrig-
era tdrink.

WDEII‘, Pearl, fir t/ze Complex-{med
Take pearl or bismuth white and French chalk,
edual parts. Reduce them to a fine powder, and
si t through lawn.

P0 WDER, Raye Fara—Wheat starch 7 lbs. ,
rose pink 1 drachm, otto of rose 2 drachms, otto
of santal 2 drachms.

P0 WDERS, Sez'dlitz.—Rochelle salts 2 drs.,
bicarbonate of soda 2 scruples ; put these into a
blue paper, and put tartartic acid 35 grains into
a white pa er. To use, put each into different
tumblers, ll % with water, and put a little loaf
sugar in with the acid, then pour together and
drink.

POWDER, Tooth—I. Take powdered char-
coal and white sugar of each I ounce; Peruvian
bark % an ounce, cream of tartar 1% drachms,
carnella 24 grains. Rub them well together and
pulverize in a mortar. The above powder will
cleanse the teeth, strengthen the gums, sweeten
the breath, and prevent the toothache—2. Take
pumice stone and cuttle-frsh bone of each % an
ounce, vitriolated tartar and mastic of each I
drachm, oil of rhodium 4 drops. Mix all into a
fine powder.—-3. (Antiseptic) Prepared chalk 2
ounces, dry chloride of lime 10 grains, oil of
cloves 5 drops. It may be colored, if preferred,
by a little levigated bole—4. (Anti-scorbutic.)
Extract of rhatany % ounce, prepared charcoal
2 ounces, cinnamon % ounce, cloves % ounce.
——S. (Rhatany.) Rhatany root 2 ounces, cuttle~
fish bone 4 ounces, prepared chalk 8 ounces,
borax 1 drachm.—5. (Violet.) Orris root 2
ounces, cuttle-fish bone 4 ounces, precipitated
chalk 12 ounces, bicarbonate of soda y; ounce,
essence of violets I drachm, and rose pink
enough to give it a pale violet color.——6. (Char-
coal.) Prepared charcoal 1 ounce, sugar 1 ounce,
oil of cloves 3 drops. Mix.—7. (Paste) Pum.
ice stone 1% ounce, alum % drachm, bitartrate
of potash I ounce, cochineal 2 scruples, bicar-
bonate of potash 1 drachm, orris I ounce, syrup
3 ounces, essence of lemon 1 drachm, oil of
cloves and essence of bergamotte of each I
drachm, otto of roses 8 drops. Mix.

QUININE, Sufistitute fan—Signor Pavia
has extracted from the leaves and roots of the
box (Buxu: ramperw'rms) an alkaloid, which he
calls buxina, that has been found most efficacious
in a large number of cases treated by 7 different
Italian physicians. It is in the severe intermit-
tent fevers that prevail in the marshy parts of
Italy that the new drug has been put to the test.
Out of 608 cases submitted to the new alkaloid,
535 were completely cured-nearly 80 per cent.
—- enough to permit the claim for it as a specific
to be entertained.

In a single dose of IS grains, sulphate of bux-
ine generally prevents the next paroxysm from
appearing. In a few cases it only diminishes
the intensity of the paroxysm. It is only in
rare cases that a second dose has had to be given.

6

 

82

DI C T! ONA R 1’ OF EVER Y—DA Y WANTS.

 

The drug seems efi'ectual in every type of dis-
ease attributed to marsh miasms.

RED RA SPBERR K—This is an astringent.
A tea made of the leaves is an excellent remedy
for the bowel complaints of children. A little
of the bark of slippery elm improves its efficacy.
It should also be given in the tbrm of an injec-
tion. The tea is used as awash and gargle ; and
if drank freely it has a good effect in a cancerous
state of the mouth, throat and stomach.

RED PRE CIPI T A T E .—Quicksilver, ni-
tric acid, equal parts. Dissolve, decant, "hnd
evaporate to dryness, in a sand heat, until it as-
sumes the proper color.

REILIED Y for Dmnéenne::.—Tartar emetic
8 grains, and rose-water 4 ounces. Mix. Put
a tablespoonful into the whole quantity of liquor
drank each day by the atient, and let him take
it as usual. Be carefu not to exceed a table-
spoonful or % an ounce.

REAIED Y for Gout and Rheumatism.—Gum

aiacum I ounce, rhubarb in powder 2 drachms,

our of sulphur 2 ounces, cream of tartar I
ounce, ginger powder I ounce. Make them into
an electuary with treacle. Dose—2 teaspoonfuls
night and morning.

REVALEIVTA ARABICA.—-This article
for dyspepsia and constipation is what is some-
times called Ervalenta. and is said to be com-
pounded mainly from a species of lentil. A pop-
ular kind is made by taking lentil meal I part,
and Turkey millet flour 2 parts. It is some-
times prepared by mixing Indian meal and bean
flour, equal parts of each, with a little salt and
sugar, and mingling all together by passing it
through a sieve. This preparation (as an article
of food for dyspeptics) instead of being nutri-
tious, is only an irritant to the bowels, because
of the difficulty experienced in digesting the
lentil meal.

PINK, ROSE.—Take a strong decoction of
Brazil wood, to which add a little pearlash, and
then pour it over finely-sifted whiting, and re-
duce it to a thick paste ; then dry slowly.

ROOT, Altman—This root gives a fine red
tinge to oils, fats, wax, turpentine, spirits, es-
sences, etc., and is used to color hair oil, poma-
tums, ointments, varnishes, etc. The spirituous
solution stains marble of a deep red ; wax tinged
with alkanet, and applied to warm marble, leaves
a flesh color.

ROOT, Gold T dread—The root, chewed, is
good for canker, or other sore mouth; and, pre-

ared by decoction, as a gargle in sore throat.

e tea is useful in cases of general debility and
loss of appetite.

ROOT, Golden Seal—This is an admirable
remedy in case of dyspepsia. A half teaspoonful
of the powder, with a half teacupful of boiling
water, taken immediately after eating, when the
food distresses one, often gives relief.

ROOT, Rlzubaré.—Rhubarb is generally cul-
tivated in our gardens for the sake of the stalks,
which are made into excellent pics; the root,
however, is of great efficacy in some diseases.
6 to 10 grains are astringent and strengthening
to the stomach. In larger doses—from a scru-
ple to half a drachm—it is first purgative and
then astringent. It is, therefore, an excellent
medicine for diarrhea and dysentery, because it
cvacuates an acrid matter that may be offending
th bowels, efore it acts as an astringent.

007‘, Yellow Dada—This is one of the

 

most valuable remedies known in diseases of the
skin. The best preparation is to bruise the
fresh roots in a mortar, and add cream or fresh
butter enough to make an ointment ; and it may
also be taken internally at the same time, either
in decoction or combined with such articles as
are useful for the internal treatment of bad hu-
mors and scrofulous conditions of the system.
It is a certain and safe remedy for the trouble
some disease known as the itch.

ROUGE.—Wash safllowers until the watet
comes away colorless; dry the flowers, powdet
them, and digest in a weak solution of carbonate
of soda. Place some cotton wool at the bottom
of the vessel, then add white vinegar till it ceases
to produce a precipitate ; wash the wool in cold
water, dissolve the color in a fresh solution of
soda, add some finely powdered French chalk,
mix well, precipitate with vinegar as before,
dry the powder carefully, and triturate it with a
little olive oil, to render it smooth and adhesive.
—2. Take I lb. of best Brazil wood, fine, and
of golden color, infuse 4 days in 4 quarts of best
white wine vinegar; then boil them together for
I hour; strain through a linen cloth, and place
the liquid in I pint of white vinegar; mix the 2
liquids and stir them well together. The scum
which now arises should be carefully taken off,
and gradually dried and powdered—3. Mix ver‘
milion with enough of gum tragacanth dissolved
in water to form a thin paste; add a few drops
of almond oil, place the mixture in rouge pots,
and dr by a very gentle heat.——4. Take I pint
of alco 01, and I ounce of alkanet; macerate Io '
days, and pour off the liquid, which should be
bottled. This is the simplest and one of the
best articles of the kind.-—-5. Boil I ounce oi
Brazil dust in 3 pints of distilled water, and then
strain ; add 6 drachms of isinglass, 2 drachms oi
cochineal, I ounce of alum, and 8 drachms oi
borax; boil again, and strain through a find
cloth.

SA‘CHE T A LA FRANGIPANNE.—Orril
root powder 3 lbs., vitivert powder % of a 1b.,
sandalwood powder % of a 1b., otto of neroli I
drachm, otto of rose I drachm, otto of santal I
drachm, musk-pods, ground, I ounce.

SA CHE T HELIOTROPE.—Powdered or. 4
ris 2 lbs., rose leaves, ground, I 1b., tonquin
beans ground '2 a 1b., vanilla beans % of a 1b.,
grain musk 1., of an ounce, otto of almonds 5
drops. Well mixed by sifting in a coarse Sieve,
it is ready for use.

SA CHE T ROSE—Rose heels or leaves I
1b., sandalwood ground % 1b., otto of roses 5‘
of an ounce. _

SAL VE, Blank—Lard 24 parts, white oxrde
of zinc 3 parts, Peruvian balsam 3 parts, nitrate
of silver (finely pulverized) I part.

SAL VE, Brown.—-Take of rosin 5 lbs., Bur-
gundy pitch, beeswax and mutton tallow, each x
of a lb. ; oil of hemlock, balsam of_ fir, 011 of
origanum, oil of red cedar, and Venice tur en-
tine, each I ounce; oil of wormwood '2 an
ounce. Melt the first articles together, and then
add the oils, stirring well; pour into cold water,
and work like wax until it is cool enough to

roll.

SAL VE, Balm of Gilead—Mutton tallow_}{
1b., balm of Gilead buds 2 ounces, white pme
gum I ounce, red precipitate I ounce, hard soap ,
I ounce, white sugar I tablespoonfuk Stew the q
buds in the tallow until the strength is obtained,

DRUGGIST AND CHE/111571

and press out or strain; scrape the soap, and
add it with the other articles to the tallow, .usxng
sufficient unsalted butter or sweet oil to bring it
to a pro er consistence to spread easrly upon
cloth. \Bhen nearly cool, stir in the red pre-
cipitate, mixing thoroughly. .

SAL PE, Ft]0n.—A salve made by burning _I
tablespoonful of copperas, then pulverizrng it
and mixing with the yelk of an egg, 15 said to
relieve the pain, and cure the felon in 24 hours ;
then heal with cream 2 parts, and soft soap I
part. Apply the healing salve daily after soak-
Ing the part in warm water. _

SAL VE, Green Mountain.——-Rosm 5 lbs.,
Burgundy pitch, beeswax, and mutton tallow, of
each X 1b.; oil of hemlock, balsam of fir, 011
of origanum, oil of red cedar, and Venice tur-
pentine, of each I ounce; oil of wormwood %
an ounce, verdigris very finely pulverized I
ounce; melt the first articles together, and add
the oils, having rubbed the verdigris up with a
little of the oils, and put it in with the other ar-
ticles, stirring well; then pour into cold water,
and work as wax until cool enough to roll.

SAL VE, Conklin’:.—Rosin 4 lbs., beeswax,
Burgundy pitch, white pine turpentine and mut-
ton tallow, each % 1b.; camphor gum and bal-
sam of fir, of each % of an ounce; sweet oil I
ounce, and alcohol I pint. Melt, mix, roll out,
and use as other salves.

SAL VE, If'itridge’:.—Bitter-sxveet and sweet
elder roots of each I 1b,, hop vines and leaves.
and garden plantain, top and root, of each %
lb. ; tobacco, about 2 ounces. Boil all in rain
water to get out the strength; then put the
herbs in a thick cloth, press out the juice, and
boil down carefully to one half a pint; then add
unsalted butter I 1b., beeswax and rosin of each
I ounce, and simmer over a slow fire until the
water is all out.

SALVE, LIE—Take I ounce of the oil of
almonds, % ounce of spermaceti, and % drachm
of prepared suet, with any simple vegetable col-
oring to fancy; simmer these until thoroughly
mingled; as soon as taken off the fire, stir into
the mixture 3 or 4 drops of tincture of capsicum,
and when nearly cold 5 or 6 drops of oil of rho-
dium.—2. Butter of cocoa I ounce, oil of
almonds I ounce; melt together with a gentle
heat, and add 6 drops of essence of lemon.-——3.
Put into an earthen pipkin I lb. of fresh butter,

I lb. of fine yellow wax, I ounce of alkanet, and

3bunches of black grapes; boil together, and
strain without pressure, through linen.—4. Of
almond oil, % 1b., spermaceti and wax each 2
ounces, alkanet root 2 ounces, otto of roses I
drachm. Place the wax, sperm and oil on the
alkanet root, in a vessel heated by a steam or
water bath; after the materials are melted, they
must digest on the alkanet, to extract its color,
for at least 4 or 5 hours; finally, strain through
fine muslin, and then add the perfume just be-
fore it cools.

SAL VE, Russia-Take equal parts of yellow
wax and sweet oil, and melt slowly, at the same
time carefully stirring; when cooling, stir in a
small quantity of glycerine. Good for all kinds
of wounds, etc.

SARSAPARILLA, choctz'on q/I—Take 2
ounces of sarsaparilla root, sliced, and bruise it,
then add I ounce of guaiacum wood; boil over a
slow fire in 3 quarts of water till reduced to I
quart; shortly before removing it from the

 

83

saucepan, add % an ounce of sassafras wood
and 3 drams of licorice ; afterward strain it.

SASSAI'WAS.—-It is an aromatic or pleasant
tonic. Sassafras, prickly ash, dogwood, and
American gentian, make as powerful and as ,
pleasant a bitter as the foreign gentian, colombo,
Peruvian bark, cloves, and cinnamon, that we
buy at the drug store.

SHOW COLORS, for Dmggirts’ l/Vindowr.
—-A beautiful blue is obtained by dissolving a
few crystals of sulphate of copper in water, and
supersaturating the solution with ammonia. A
green color is obtained by dissolving nitrate or
chloride of nickel in water. Nitrate of cobalt
will give a rose color. Other tints may be se-
lected from the different aniline dyes, those sol-
uble in alcohol being preferable. They should
be renewed every 3 or 6 months, as they will
gradually lose their brightness. (Se: page 68.)

SAL TS, Inex/zamtz'ble for Smelling Baffler.
—Liquid ammonia I pint, otto of rosemary I
drachm, otto of English lavender I drachm, otto
of bergamotte % a drachm, otto of cloves % a
drachm. Mix the whole together with agitation
in a very strong and well-stoppered bottle.

This mixture is used by Hing the smelling
bottles with any porous absorbent material, such
as asbestos, or, what is better, sponge cuttings,
that have been well beaten, washed and dried.
(See page 71.) ~

SN UFF, Catarr/z.—Scotch snuff I ounce,
chloride of lime dried and pulverized I rounding
teaspoonful; mix and bottle, corking tightly.

SNUFE Ophelia—Dried asarbacca leaves
3 parts, marjoram I part, lavender flowers I
part; rub together to a powder.

SPONGE, T a Blank—Soak the sponge in
very dilute muriatic acid to remove calcareous
matter; then in cold water, changing it fre-
quently, and squeezing the sponge out each time.
Then soak it in water, holding a little sulphuric
or sulphurous acid, or chlorine in solution, and
changing the acid frequently till the spong. is
sufficiently bleached. Last, repeatedly wash and
soak in clean water, and scent with rose or or-
ange-flower water.

SPONGE TENT, To Prepare—The old
way was by saturating the sponge with warm
melted wax, and compressing it until the wax
solidified, and then getting it into a suitable
shape. The method of Dr. Sympson, of Edin-
burg, is to saturate sponge, previously cleaned,
with thick gum mucilage, and then having put
an awl through its centre, a cord is forcily wound
round it so as to expel most of the mucilage,
and reduce the size of the sponge to a small di-
ameter; it is then dried, the cord is removed,
and the outside of the tent rubbed down with
sand-paper to the roper shape.

Dr. H. N ott, 0 New York, prepares antisepo
tic sponge tent by saturating the prepared sponge
with an antiseptic paste composed of alum, ace-
tate of lead, wheat flour and gum water, heated
to the boiling point, and wrapped in goldbeater’s
skin. It is then punctured with a small knife-
blade.

SPECIFIC fir Dyrmtery.—Take I lb. of
gum Arabic, I ounce of gum tragacanth, dis-
solved in 2 quarts of soft water, and strained.
Then take I b. of cloves, % a lb. of cinnamon,
and the same quantity of allspice, and boil in 2
quarts of soft water, and strain. Add it to the
gums, and boil all together over a moderate

84 DICTIONARY OF E VERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

fire, and stir into it 2 lbs. of loaf sugar. Strain
the whole again when you take it off, and when
it is cool add to it % a pint of sweet tincture of
rhubarb, and 1% pints of best brandy. Cork
it tight in bottles, as the gums will sour if ex-
posed; if corked properly it will keep for years.

SYRUP, Cough—Put I quart of horehound
to I quart of water, and boil it down to a pint;
add 2 or 3 sticks of licorice and a tablespoonful
of essence of lemon. Take a tablespoonful of
the s rup 3 times a day, or as often as the cough
may he troublesome.

S YR UP or Conrum liven—Take tamarack
bark, withou rossing, (t e moss may be brushed

-off,) I peck, spikenard root % a 1b., dandelion

root % of a 1b., hops 2 ounces. Boil these suf-
ficiently to get the strength in 2 or 3 gallons of
water; strain and boil down to I gallon; when
blood warm add 3 lbs. of honey and 3 pints of
the best brandy; bottle, and keep in a very cool
place. Dose—A wine-glassful, or a little less,
as the stomach will bear, 3 or 4 times daily, be-
fore meals and at bed-time.

SYRUP, Hive.—Squill and seneka bruised
of each 4 ounces, tartrate of antimony and po-
tassa 48 grains, water 4 pints, sugar 3'; lbs.
Pour the water on the squill and sene a, and
boil to half the original quantity. Strain and
add the sugar; then evaporate to 3 pints, and,
while the syrup is still hot, dissolve in it the tar-
trate of antimony and potassa.

S YR UP, Soothing—Take I 1b. of honey, add
2 tablespoonfuls of aregoric, and the same of
oil of aniseseed, add) enough water to make a
thick syrup, and bottle. Dose—For children
teething, a teaspoonful occasionally.

S YRUPUS, Slillingia Compound.—Queen’s
root 2 lbs., root of Turkey-corn 2 lbs., blue flag
root I 1b., elder flowers I 1b., pipsissewa leaves
I 11)., coriander seed % 1b., prickly ash berries
% lb. Grind and mix the articles together;
place the whole 8 lbs. in a convenient vessel,
c r them with 76 per cent. alcohol, and macer-
ate for 3 days. Then convey the whole to a dis-
placement apparatus, and gradually add alcohol
until 4 pints of the alcoholic tincture have been
obtained, which retain and set aside. Then
continue the percolation with water, and of this
second solution reserve so much as contains a
sensible amount of spirit, and distil or evaporate
the alcohol from it. Continue the displacement
by water until the solution obtained is almost
tasteless, and boil down this weaker infusion
until, when added to the second solution after
the evaporation of its alcohol, it will make 24

ints. To these 2 solutions combined add 24
bs. of refined sugar, and dissolve it by heat,
carefully removing any scum which arises as it
comes to the point of boiling; and if it exceeds
28 pints, evaporate to that point with constant
stirring. Then remove from the fire, and when
nearly cold add the 4 pints of reserved alcoholic
tincture, and make 4 gallons of syrup, each pint
of which will be equal to 4 ounces of the ingre-
dients in medical virtue.

SYRUPof T ar.———Tincture of tar 2 ounces,
carbonate of magnesia I ounce, water a sufficient
quantity, sugar I lb. Rub the tincture with the
carbonate, add gradually % of a pint of water;
then filler, and pour on water through the filter
to make the liquid measure % of a pint; lastly,

.add the sugar, and dissolve with the aid of gen-

tle heat.

 

S YRUPS fir Mineral Water:.———I. Simple.
White sugar Io lbs., water I gallon, best isin-
glass % of an ounce. Dissolve the isinglass in
hot water, and add it to the hot syrup. The
syrup is to be made with gentle heat, and then
strained.-—2. Lemon—a. Grate off the yellow
rind of lemons, and beat it up with a suflicient
quantity of granulated sugar. Express the lem~
on-juice, add to each pint of juice 1 pint of wa-
ter, and 3 lbs. of granulated sugar, including
that rubbed up with the rind; warm until the
sugar is dissolved, and strain.—3. Lemon—b.
Simple syrup 1 gallon, oil of lemon 25 drops,
citric acid 10 drachms. Rub the oil of lemon
with the acid, add a small portion of syrup, and
mix.-—4. Strawberry—a. Strawberry juice I
pint, simple syrup 3 pints, solution of citric acid
2 drachms.—5. Strawberry—l). Fresh straw-
berries 5 quarts, white sugar I2 lbs., water I
pint. Sprinkle some of the sugar over the fruit
in layers, and allow the whole to stand for sev-
eral hours; express the juice and strain, wash-
ing out the pulp with water ; add the remainder
of the sugar and water, bring the fluid to the
point of boiling, and then strain. This will keep
for a long time.—6. Raspberry. Raspberry
iuice I pint, simple syrup 3 pints, solution of cit-
ric acid 2 drachms. Raspberry syrup may also
be made in a way similar to No. 5 for strawberry.
-—-7. Vanilla. Fluid extract of vanilla I ounce,
Citric acid % of an ounce, simple syrnp I gal-
lon. Rub the acid with some of the syrup, add
the extract of vanilla, and mix.-—8. Vanilla
Cream. Fluid extract of vanilla I ounce, sim-
ple syrup 3 pints, cream or condensed milk I
pint; may be colored with carmine.—9. Cream.
Fresh cream I pint, fresh milk I pint, powdered
sugar I lb. Mix by shaking, and keep in a cool
place. The addition of a few grains of bicar-
bonate of soda will for some time retard souring.
10. Ginger. Tincture of ginger 2 fluid ounces,
simple syrup 4 pints—II. Orange. Oil of or-
ange 30 drops, tartaric acid 4 drachms, simple
syrup I gallon. Rub the oil with the acid, and
mix.-—-12. Pineapple. Oil of pineapple Idrachm,
Tartaric acid I drachm, simple syrup 6 pints.—
I3. Orgeat. Cream syrup I pint, Vanilla syrup
I pint, oil of bitter almonds 4 drops—I4. Nec-
tar. Vanilla syrup 5 pints, pineapple syrup I
pint, strawberry, raspberry or lemon 2 pints.—
I 5. Sheréet. Vanilla syrup 3 pints, pineapple
syrup I pint, lemon syrup 1 pint.—I6. Grape.
Brandy ;4/ of a pint, spirits of lemon % of an
ounce, tincture of red sanders 2 ounces, simple
syrup I gallon.—I7. Banana. Oil of banana 2
drachms, tartaric acid I drachm, simple syrup 6
pints.-—18. Cqfle. Coffee roasted % of a 1b.,
boiling water I gallon. Enough is filtered to
make about one—half gallon of the infusion, to
which add granulated sugar 7 1bs.—I9. [Vi]
Cherry- Wild cherry bark in coarse powder 5
ounces. Moisten the bark with water, and let
it stand for 24 hours in a close vessel. Then
pack it firmly in a pereolator, and pour water
upon it until I pint of fluid is obtained. To this
add 28 ounces of sugar.——2o. Wintergreen.
Oil of Wintergreen 25 drops, simple syrup 5
pints, and a sufficient quantity of burnt sugar to
colon—2!. Sarmparilla—a. Oil Wintergreen I0
drops, oil of ani‘se Io drops, oil of sassafras. IO
drops, fluid extract of sarsaparilla 2 ounces, .Slm-
ple syrup 5 pints, powdered extract of licorice I
ounce.-22. Sarrajafilla—é. Simple syrup 4

a

DRUGGIST AND CHEMIST.

pints, compound 5 mp of sarsaparilla 4 fluid
ounces, caramel I '2 ounces, oil of Wintergreen
6 drops, oil of sassafras 6 drops—23. Maple.
Maple sugar 4 lbs., water 2 pints—24. 0.20:0-
Iale. Best chocolate 8 ounces, water 2 pints,
white sugar 4 pounds. Mix the chocolate in
water, and stir thoroughly over a slow fire.
Strain, and add the sugar.—-25. .Coflée Cream.
Coffee syrup 2 pints, cream I pint—.26. Am-
brosia. Raspberry syrup 2 pints, vanilla syrup
2 pints, hock wine 4 ounces.—27. Home and
Claret. Hock or claret wine I pint, Simple
syrup 2 pints.—28. Solferino. Brandy I pint,
simple syrup 2 pints.—29. Frail Arid (used in
some of the syrups.) Citric acid 4 ounces, wa-
ter 8 ounces. Most of the syrups not made
from fruits may have a little gum Arabic added
in order to produce a rich froth.

SWEET FERN—Sweet fern grows in the
woods and in stony places, flowers from June to
October, and is well known. It is a powerful
medicine to expel the tapeworm, in the dose of
a pint a day of the decoction, or I or 2 teaspoon-
fuls of the powder, to be followed on the fifth
day by a dose of some kind of physic. It is
also good in chronic rheumatism, and a wash of
it is considered beneficial in St. Anthony’s fire,
and other cutaneous affections.

T A IVA/[A7, Purification ofI-—In order to free
commercial tannin from the peculiar odor which
it derives from a greenish-colored resin, Deinz
recommends to dissolve 6 parts of it in 12 parts
of hot water in a porcelain mortar, to pour the
fluid into a bottle, and after the addition of % to
I part of ether, to shake it vigorously. The
mixture appears cloudy and very greenish, but
becomes clear after a few hours’ standing, while
theyresinous coloring matter separates in flakes
of coagulated albumen. The fluid is then fil-
tered, and the filtrate evaporated to dryness.
Tannin treated in this way is colorless, and
forms a perfectly clear solution.

T [N C T URE of Cant/zarides.——-Cantharides

bruised % an ounce, proof spirit 2 pints. Ma-
cerate 6 or 7 days, express and strain. Stimu-

lant, diuretic, and must be used with caution.
Dose—Io drops, gradually increased to I drachm,
given in any mucilaginous fluid. Externally
used, combined with compound camphor lini-
ment, as a rubefacient in rheumatism, frost-bites
or unbroken chilblains. An ingredient in reme-
dies for baldness.

T INC T URE, Cholera—Select the thinnest
cinnamon bark, cloves, guaiac, all pulverized, of
each I ounce; very best brandy I quart. Mix,
and shake occasionally for a week or two. Dose
-—Teaspoonful to tablespoonful for an adult, ac—
cording to the condition and robustness of the
system. It may be repeated at intervals of I to
4 hours, if necessary, or much more often, ac-
cording to the condition of the bowels.—2. Sul-
phuric ether 2 ounces, and put into it castor and
gentian, of each % of an ounce; opium and
agaric each I drachm, gum camphor % of an
ounce; let them stand 2 days, then add I quart
of alcohol, and let it stand I4 days, when it is
ready for use. Dose—I teaspoonful every 15 or
20 minutes, according to the urgency of the
case.

T [N C TURE, Diarrhea—Compound tine-
ture of myrrh 6 ounces, tincture of rhubarb and
spirits of lavender of each 5 ounces, tincture of
opium 3 ounces, .oils of anise and cinnamon,

 

35

with gum camphor and tartaric acid, of each ,14
of an ounce. Mix. Dose—I teaspoonful in
half a tea-cupful of warm water, sweetened with
loaf sugar; repeat after each passage.

TIN C T URE, Gout.—Veratrum viride (swamp
hellebore) I ounce, opium % of an ounce, wine
I pint; let them stand for several days. Dose
—-15 to 30 drops, according to the robustness of
the patient, at intervals of 2 to 4 hours. '

TINC T Ulr'E (Sweet) of Rhubarb.—Take
of rhubarb bruised 2 ounces, licorice root bruised
2 ounces, aniseed bruised I ounce, sugar I
ounce, diluted alcohol 2 pints. Macerate for I4
days, express and filter.

T INC T URE of Musk—Powdered musk I;
ounce, civet 30 grains, otto of roses 25 drops,
oil of cloves 10 drops, alcohol 4 pints. Digest.

T INC T URE of 0pz'zmz.—-Opium 3 ounces,
proof spirit 2 pints. Macerate for 7 days, ex-
press and strain. Dose: From 2 drops to I or
2 drachms. I grain of opium is contained in I9
drops.

T [1VC T URE of Pearl: (fir t/ze Complexion.)
Blanched almonds I 1b., acetate of lead 4 ounces,
water 7 pints. Reduce them to a milk and then
strain; add spirit 3 pints, essence of neroli and
essence of lavender each I drachm. This is
used for removing freckles.

TIN C T URES for #2: T oath—I. Campha'
4ounces, myrrh 2 ounces, rectified spirits 36
fluid ounces, distilled water 8 ounces.—2. Spirit
of nutmegs I drachm, tincture of rrhatany 2
drachms, compound tincture of cardamons 3
drachms, compound spirit of lavender and spirit
of cinnamon of each I drachm, otto of roses 3
drops. Mix.—(1V[yrr/z.) Choice Turkey myrrh
3 ounces, eau de Cologne I quart. Digest for
7 days, and then filter.—4. (AIyrr/L and Borax.)
Take spirits of wine I quart, borax I ounce,
honey I ounce, gum myrrh I ounce, red sanders
wood I ounce. Rub the honey and borax well
together in a mortar, then gradually add the

,proof spirit, the myrrh and sanders wood, and

macerate for 14 da 5.

VACCINE VIRUS, To [Veep—Immerse it
in the fresh state in glycerine, of which the best
quality only should be used. It should be kept
in a cool place, and never at a temperature higher
than 84° Fahrenheit.

VERMJFUGE (Swaz'n’r.)——Of wormseed 2
ounces, valerian, rhubarb, pink—root, white aga-
ric, of each I ounce; boil in sufficient water to
yield 3 quarts of decoction, and add to it 30
drops of oil of tansy, and 45 drops of' oil of
cloves, dissolved in a quart of rectified spirits.
Dose: I tablespoonful at night.—2. (Fa/21m-
tock’sz) Castor oil I ounce, oil of wormseed I
ounce, oil of anise I ounce, tincture of myrrh I
oil of turpentine I0 minims. Mix:

VINEGAR, T oilet—-—I. (Aromatic.) Acetic
acid I pint, camphor 2 ounces, oil of lavender I
drachm, oil of cinnamon 20 drops, oil of cloves
and oil of rosemary each 30 drops; mix thor-
oughly. To be used as a reviving perfume in
fainting, etc. As it is corrosive it should not be
allowed to come in contact with the skin or the
clothes.—2. (Hana/’3.) Dried leaves of rose-
mary, rue, wormwood, sage, mint, and lavender
flowers, each I ounce; bruised nutmeg, cloves,
angelica root, and camphor, each I ounce; alco-
hol, 4 ounces, concentrated acetic acid 16 ounces.
Macerate the materials for a day in the spirit,
then add the acid, and digest for a week longer

86

at a temperature of about I4 or 15" C. Finally,
press out the new aromatized acid, and filter it.

WATER, Carlsbad, (Arlificial.)—Hydro-
chlorate of lime 8 grains, tincture of sesqui—
chloride of iron I drop, sulphate of soda 50
grains, carbonate of soda 60 grains, hydrochlo-
ride of soda 8 grains, carbonated water I pint.

WA TER, Cologne.—I. The recipes for Co-
logne water are innumerable ; the quality of the
preparation depends altogether on the urity of
the oils, and greatly on the quality of t e alco—
hol. (First Quality.)—-Pure alcohol 6 gallons,
oil of neroli 4 ounces, oil of rosemary 2 ounces,
oil of orange 5 ounces, oil of citron 5 ounces,
oil of bergamotte 2 ounces. Mix with agitation,
and then allow it to stand for afew days per-
fectly quiet before bottling—2. (Second Quality)
Pure alcohol 6 gallons, oil of neroli 2 ounces,
oil of rosemary 2 ounces, oil of orange peel 4
ounces, oil of lemon 4 ounces, oil of bergamotte
4 ounces. To be treated in the same manner as
the first.

WATER, Congress—Take of supercarbon-
ate of soda2 drachms, 'Epsom salts I drachm,
table salt I drachm, well water (soft) I quart;
mix the powders in a black bottle, and pour on
the water; then add of tartaric acid I drachm
to each bottle, and cork tight immediately. Fit
for use in 12 hours.

WA T ER, Congress- (fbr Fountaim.)—-Com-
mon salt 7% ounces, hydrate of soda 20 grains,
bicarbonate of soda 20 grains, calcined magnesia
I ounce. Add to to gallons of water, and then
charge with gas.

IVA TER, Eye.—I. Soft water I pint, gum
Arabic I ounce, white vitriol I ounce, fine salt
% of a teaspoonful; put all into a bottle and
shake until dissolved. Put into the eye just as
you retire to bed.—2. Take I pint of rose-water,
and add I teaspoonful each of spirits of camphor
and laudanum. Mix and bottle. To be shaken
and applied to the eyes as often as necessary.—
3. Sulphate of copper 15 grains, French bole I5
grains, camphor 4grains, boiling water 4 ounces.
Infuse, strain, and dilute with 2 quarts of cold

water.

WA T ER, Florida..—Take oil of bergamotte
3 ounces, oil of cinnamon 4 drachms, tincture of
benzoin 2 ounces, alcohol 30 per cent. Baume I
gallon. Mix and filter.

PVA T ER, Goulard.——Extract lead I drachm,
and of distilled vinegar 2 ounces, proof spirit
of wine 94 of an ounce, water I pint. Mix
these ingredients together.

WA T ER, Honey.—Rectified spirits 8 pints,
oil of cloves, oil of lavender, oil of bergamotte,
each % of an ounce; musk 8 grains, yellow
sanders shavings 4 ounces; digest for 8 days,
and add 2 pints each of orange flower and rose-
water.

WA T ER, Hungary—Take oil of rosemary 2
ounces, of balm and lemon peel of each I ounce,
mint 30 drops, essence of orange flowers and es-
sence of roses of each I pint, alcohol I gallon.

WA T ER, Kirsingen, (for Fountains. )—Bi-
carbonate of soda I drachm, carbonate of lime 2
drachms and 2 scruples, precipitated carbonate
of lime 2 scruples, common salt 8 ounces, muri-
ate of ammonia 4 grains, sulphate of soda 2
drachms and 2 scruples, sulphate of magnesia 2
ounces, phosphate of soda I3 grains, phosphate
of lime 2 drachms and 2 scruples. Mix.
water % of a gallon. Let it stand for 6 hours,

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY' WANTS.

filter, add carbonate of magnesia 3 drachms and
I scruple, and charge with 10 gallons of water.

WATER, Luz/endan—I. Oil of lavender 4
ounces, proof spirit 3 quarts, rose water I int.
Mix and filter.—2. (Odorz' erou:.)—Oil 0 lav-
ender 3 drachms, oil of bergamotte 20 drops, '
oil of neroli 6 drops, otto of rose 6 drops, es-
sence of cedrat 8 drops, essence of musk 20
drops, rectified spirit 28 fluid ounces, distilled
water 4 ounces.

WA T ER, Lima—Lime % of a 1b., distilled
water I2 pints; Slake the lime with a little wa-
ter, add the remaining water, and shake; set
the covered vessel aside for 3 hours, keep the
liquor and lime in stopped glass vessels, and
when it is required decant the clear portion for
use. Antacid, lithontriptic. Allays obstinate
vomiting, is used as an astringent in dysentery,
and, with sarsaparilla, as an alterative in cuta-
neous diseases or impaired digestion. Dose—-
I to 3 ounces, combined with an equal quantity
of milk.

WA T ER, Rom—Otto of roses 12 drops,
white sugar I ounce, magnesia 2 drachms, pure -
soft water I quart, alcohol 2 ounces. Rub the
otto of roses with the sugar and magnesia, and
gradually add the water and alcohol, previously
mixed, and filter the whole through paper.

WA T ER, Vic/'2)! (for Fountains) — Sulphate -
of potass 2 drachms, sulphate of soda 4 scru-
ples, phosphate of soda 25 grains, common salt
6 drachms, bicarbonate of soda 5 ounces, car-
bonate of ammonia Io grains. Mix. Add wa-
ter I gallon. Let it stand I day, filter, and then
change with Io gallons of water.

WA SHE/ILL, Perfumed—Take of the best
white soap, shaved into slices, 3 ounces; of F 10-
rentine orris I ounce, of calamus aromaticus the
same, of elder-flowers, cloves and dried rose-
leaves, each I ounce ; corriander seeds, lavender,
and bay leaves, each I drachm; with 3 drachms
of storax. Reduce the whole to a fine powder,
which knead into a paste with the scrap, adding
a few grains of soap or ambergris. When you
make this paste into washballs, soften it with a
little oil of almonds to render the composition
more lenient. This soap has excellent cleansing
and cosmetic properties.

WAFERS, Bryan’s Pulmonit.—Take white
sugar 7 lbs., tincture of syrup of ipecac4 ounces,
antimonial wine 2 ounces, morphine 10 grains,
dissolved in a tablespoonful of water, with Io or
15 drops of sulphuric acid; tincture of blood
root I ounce, syrup of tolu 2 ounces; add these
to the sugar, and mix the whole mass as confec-
tioners do for lozenges, and cut into lozenges the
ordinary size.

WIN T ERGREEN. —It is useful in spas-
modic asthma, in urinary, and in female weak-
nesses. It relieves cramp from wind in the
stomach; and the juice, boiled with sweet oil,
wax and turpentine, makes a salve which is used
to heal wounds.

WI T CH HAZEL—A tea of the leaves and
bark is useful to wash putrid sores; and it will
also remove that diseased or dead substance
known as “proud flesh.” For this ipurposea
poultice should be made of a strong in usion and
applied to the sore, or it may be washed gently
with the tea.

WRIGHJ ’S C URE flrlnflammatmy Rhea.

d mati:m.-—Sulphur and salt etre of each I ounce,

gum guaiac I ounce, col 'cum root, or seed.

 

 

DOMESTIC ANIMALS—6A TTLE.

and nutmegs, of each % of an ounce all to be

ulverized and mixed with simple syru , or mo-

asses, 2 ounces. Dose—I teaspoont‘u every 2

hours until it moves the bowels rather freely;
then 3 or 4 times daily until cured.

W ORMAEED (Oak (3/ yemmlem.)—This is

a vermifuge or anthelmintic medicine, that is

good to destroy worms. A tablespoonful of the

37

juice of the plant expressed or squeezed out is a
dose. The seed may be boiled in milk; give a
wineglassful. Or I or 2 teaspoonfuls of the seed
itself may be mixed with molasses or honey,
and given to a child 2 or 3 ears old, on an
empty stomach, twice a day an continued sev-
eral days. This is very highly prized for bowel
complaints.

 

DOMESTIC

ANIMALS, Efittr of It'x'ndnesr on.—-The
law that is to usher in the advent of the Golden
Age is the law of kindness—the law of love be-
tween man and man. If this law, or even a
portion of it, be applied by man to the govern-
ment, or rather the directing of the so-called
“ brute” creation, it will be wonderful how eas-
ily they can be brought under subjection and
control. The efficac of the soothing word, the

entle touch, has on y to be honestly tried to be
ully appreciated. It may be set down as a fixed
fact that whenever a horse or a cow or an ox is
timid and shy—will not allow a person to ap-
proach or handle, unless it is so situated that it
cannot escape—a wrong system of treatment
has been pursued. The animals of the farmer
are naturally disposed to be docile and affection-
ate. They recognize the voice and hand of a
friend almost as soon as a human being would,
and manifest their affection in a variety of ways,
which none but the kind master or keeper will
observe. Have you not seen teamsters who
could manage their teams by a soft word far bet-
ter than others could do by blows and harsh
words? I have. Have you not seen a milk-
maid approach a cow with a bucket without the
slightest evidence of a disposition on the part of
the animal to evade her? And have you not
seen the same cow make every effort to escape
from the next milkmaid who approaches her?
I have, and the reason was that the first had al-
ways treated her kindly and gently, while the
latter had pursued the opposite method. Ani-
mals almost invariably partake of the character
of their masters. The kind, gentle and consid-
erate master will generally have kind, gentle
animals; while the rude, impetuous and cruel
master will rarely fail to have animals whose
dispositions will mate with his own. Is not
gentleness the true method? I think so. God
has given those poor brutes for our use; they
minister to our wants, are patient and uncom-
plaining, and certainly deserve such treatment
at our hands as will show that we properly ap-
preciate the kindness of the Almighty in giving
them to us for the purpose of adding to our

comfort.
CATTLE.

CA TTLE, AGE 0)“, How to Tell—The age
of the ox or cow is told chiefly by the teeth, and
less perfectly by the horns. The temporary
teeth are in part through at birth, and all the in-
cisors are through in 20 days; the first, second,
and third pairs of molars are through in 30

ANIMALS.

days; the teeth have grown large enough to
touch each other by the sixth month; they grad-
ually wear and fall in :8 months; the fourth
permanent molars are through at the fourth
month; the fifth at the fifteenth month; the
sixth at 2 years. The temporary teeth begin to
fall at 21 months, and are entirely replaced by
the thirty-ninth to the forty-fifth month. The
development is quite complete at from 5 to 6
years. At that time the border of the incisors
has been worn away a little below the level of
the grinders. At 6 years the first grinders are
beginning to wear, and are on a level with the
incisors. At 8 years the wear of the first grind-
ers is very apparent. At 10 or 11 years, used
surfaces of the teeth bear a square mark, sur-
prounded by a white line; and this is perceived
on all the teeth by the twelfth year; between
the twelfth and the fourteenth year, this mark
takes a round form. The rings on the horns
are less useful as guides. At 10 or 12 months
the first ring appears; at 20 months to 2 years
the second; at 30 to 32 months the third; at 40
to 46 months the fourth; at 54 to 60 months the
fifth ring, and so ‘on. But, at the fifth year, the
3 first rings are indistinguishable, and at the
eighth year all the rings; beside, the dealers
file the horns.

CA T T LE, BREA CHK—To prevent bore a
hole through each end of the board, where they
will exactly fit the horns without stretching or
pressing. Let the holes be small enough not to
go too far down on the horns. Leave about an
inch of the horn sticking through the board;
drill a small hole through it, large enough to
admit a horse-nail as a key. The board, reach-
ing from this cross-piece to the nose, may be
screwed fast to it; there will be play enough on
the horns to give the necessary swing. If nails
are used, which is seldom necessary, they should
be very smoothly blunted.

CATTLE, Catarrlz in.—Malignant catarrh,
or coryza, has been confounded with the cattle
plague or rinderpest, in some points of which
there is a resemblance. Symptomr.—In first
stage a shivering fit may be observed; dullness,
head held low, ears pendulous, the visible mem-
branes of which are of a bluish-red color and
dry; eyes closed and swollen, tears flow, and
light cannot be endured; muzzle d and hot,
saliva discharged abundantly; pain ul cough,
pulse frequent and full, heart’s action feeble,
bowels costive, feces black and hard, but after

 

a short time diarrhea ensues; urine scanty, oi-
fensive, and of a high color; is thirsty, but eats

eats nothing. The second stage occurs within
18 or ‘24 hours from the appearance of the first
signs of disturbance, and is denoted by a very
marked change in the character of the discharges.
The membranes of the eyes and nose now fur-
nish a purulent secretion, having an admixture
of blood and ichor, which irritates and makes
sore the skin over which it flows. Within the
sinuses of the head large accumulations of pus
occur, and when the bones over them are tapped
by the fingers (percussed) a dull sound is emit-
ted. If t e mouth is opened, red patches will
be observed, which in some places will have
fallen ofl”, exposing a foul ulcer beneath, and the
membranes are now of a deeper purple hue, and
the breath fetid. The animal is lame, and expe-
riences great pain when urine or dung is dis-
charged. Pregnant animals are almost sure to
cast their young (abort.) In the third stage
great prostration is evident. Sloughing of mem-
branes extensive, and probably the horns and
hoofs have come off. The pulse has become
imperceptible, and convulsions ensue, with gen-
eral coldness. The thermometer indicates a
rapid and unusual fall, 90 to 95° F. being the
amount of heat that can be registered at the rec-
tum. Sometimes ulceration of the cornea is ef-
fected before death, and the contents of the eye-
ball discharged, giving rise to a great amount of
additional pain. Dunztion.—From 4 to 9 or II
days. T reatment.—Remove the animal from
the pasture, and place it in a comfortable, cool
place, with good bedding. Cooling or evapo-
rating lotions, water, etc., should be constantly
applied to the head. Injections of warm water
should be thrown up. The following laxative
drink may be administered:

Take of Epsom salts I2 02., ground ginger 2
02., treacle % 1b., and warm ale 1% pts. Mix
and give to a 2-year old beast; % for 1 year
old ; % at 6 months, and hf for lesser animals,
as calves, sheep, and large pigs. 2 or 4 drs. of
nitre in water may be given 3 or 4 times a day.
Solutions of carbolic acid, or sulphurous acid
gas and chlorine in water, should be used for the
purpose of dressing the wounds and cleansing
the points of discharge, etc. It may also be
necessary to open the sinuses and sponge them,
using the same solutions.

CATTLE, CHOKED, To Relieve.— In
choking, the accumulation of gas (chiefly sul-
phuretted hydrogen) is the cause of the animal’s
death. This gas can be decomposed by the
forcing of chloride of lime down the animal’s
throat. A strong solution of salt and water will
also effect the same object. Another mode of
relief is to force the animal to jump over the
bars of a gate or fence, as high as she will jump,
and when she touches ground on the opposite
side the obstruction will be ejected. Another
plan is to take a loaded gun, slip up by the side
of the animal, place the muzzle directly between
the horns, about 3 inches forward of them, and
discharge the piece. A sudden spring of the
animal backwa‘rd results, and the obstruction is
removed. And yet another is to use 4 or 5 feet
of 2% rubber hose, and push the obstruction

own.

CA TTLE, BLA CKLEG I'M—This can be
cured by thoroughly washing the diseased leg in
strong soap suds; rub till dry; then scrape the
knots with a dull knife; then take I ounce of
vitriol and dissolve in strong Vlanal', after

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

which the leg must be very thoroughly bathed
and dried.

CATTLE, Feeding and Care of.—The two
great points in the feeding of cattle are regular-
ity and a particular care to the weaker individu-
als. On this last account there ought to be
plenty of rack or trough room, that too many
may not feed together; in which very common
case the weaker are not only trampled down by
the stronger, but they are worried, cowed and
spiritless; than which there cannot be a more
unfavorable state for thrift ; beside, they are
ever compelled to shift with the worst of the
fodder. To prevent this the weaker animals
should be kept and fed apart. The barn or sta-
ble should be kept warm in winter. During
the winter months, whenever the sun shines,
turn them into the yard, and they will soon find
the sunny side, and begin to stretch themselves
and show increased comfort. A good plan is to
feed them meal or roots early in the morning,
without any hay, and turn them out a little after
sunrise, and then feed hay, either in the yard or
at the adjoining stack, putting them back in the
stalls as early as 4 P. M. , stormy or extreme cold
weather excepted, when they should be kept
comfortably housed the most of the time. In
Fattem'ng, the farmer should remember that it
does not pay to feed grain to a poor creature~
one that does not take on flesh rapidly. This
kind of stock should at once be disposed of for
what it will bring. The next important point is
to feed plentifully, without stint, and to do this
regularly and not too otten, as the stock will eat
and lie down and ruminate.

CATTLE, Fill); an Eye: q/‘I—To remove it
apply clean lard, warm or cold, which ever way
it can be got into the eye best. Its a plication
will cause no pain, and should be applied until
the film is removed. Another method is to ap
ply powdered sugar.

CA T T LE, Foot and Moutfi Distal-e in.-—On
the first indication of this disease, the affected
cattle should at once be separated from the
healthy, so as to secure against the spreading of
the disorder. Next make a mixture composed
of 5 lbs. of alum to 12 gals. of soft water, 4
qts. of salt, and a small quantity of tar, and
with a s onge or rag wash the inside of the
mouths thoroughly of those not affected. Next
bathe the lower portion of the legs with suds
formed from carbolic disinfecting soap, to which
is added 1 qt. of salt to about 1 gal. suds. Re-
peat the bathing and washing once a day for 7
days. The affected animals should be treated
in the same manner, with the exception of wash-
ing the inside of the mouth twice a day—once
with the mixture given above, and once with
wormwood steeped in vinegar. To the division
of the hoof apply suds at first, and afterwards
apply a mixture of pitch and tar. The buildings
should be thoroughly disinfected by carbolic
acid, chloride of lime, and other disinfectants,
and if the cattle themselves be treated with the
fumes of burning sulphur, it will help to prevent
further infection, for which purpose drop sm
pieces of brimstone upon live coals, contained in
suitable metallic vessels, (so as to avoid all risk
of communicating fire, and allow the fumes to
mingle with the air 0 the lean-to, or building
containing the cattle, and to penetrate the coats
of the beasts, and to be inhaled to such extent
as can be borne by the attendant without serious

DOMESTIC ANIMALS—CA TTLE.

89

 

discomfort. Let this be regularly repeated,
daily or twice daily while the danger continues,
using from I to 2 ounces each time, according to
the extent of the danger. Finally, the animals
should be kept in a dry, comfortable place, suit-
ably ventilated, and receive good nursing, inclu-
ding the utmost cleanliness. No bleeding must
be allowed, nor should active purgatives be given
them. If unable to take their usual food, their
strength should be sustained by giving mashes
of coarse-ground wheat, with bran or other 51m-
ilar diet.

CATTLE, HOOF ROT [AZ—For a cure,
take I teacupful of sharp cider vinegar, 1% ta-
blespoonfuls of copperas, 1% tablespoonfuls of
salt. Dissolve gradually on the hot stove, but
do not let it boil. When cool, apply it on the
affected limb and hoof, and also swab out the
mouth of the animal with the mixture. 2 or 3
applications generally effects a cure. This prep-
aration can be used in the foot and mouth dis-
ease in connection with the above treatment.

CATTLE, Haven or Bloat in.—A certain
remedy for this is to take a pail of water, fresh
from the stream, and pour it from a jug forward
of the hip bones, rubbing it on with the hands.
It will be found that the bloat will at once com-
mence to go down, and by applying 2 or 3 more
pailsful complete restoration will result.

CATTLE, LICE 01V, To Dertroy.——I.
Camphor dissolved in spirits is an effectual rem-
edy.—2. I part lard and 2 parts coal oil, melted
together and applied, will kill lice without fail.
-——3. A strong brine, thickened with soft soap,
will also kill.—4. 2 or 3 applications of kerosene
oil, applied by carding the animal, and dipping
the teeth of the card in the oil, is convenient,
harmless and effectual.——5. Feeding onions to
the animal will make the lice travel in from 10
to I 5 hours.

CATTLE, MANGE IM—This is caused
by improper treatment of the animal through the
winter, rendering it debilitated and unable to
support the change when the grass comes on.
Nature, overloaded, will relieve herself by this
eruption on the skin, which, once introduced,
will quickly spread through an entire dairy.
The treatment required is proper attention to
cleanliness, food, drink, and plenty of sun-

]: ht.

gCA T T LE PLAGUE.—Chloride of copper
is now extensively used in Germany as a pre-
ventive against the cattle plague. The mode of
administering the specific is as follows: A solu-
tion is first made by dissolving % of an 02. of
the green crystallized salts in spirits of wine. In
this solution a pad of cotton is soaked for a lit-
tle while, and is then laid on a plate and set on
fire in the centre of the stable, the animals’
heads being turned toward the flame, so as to
make them breathe the fumes. The operation
is performed morning and evening, and a spirit
lamp filled with the solution left burning in the
stable every night. The liquid is also adminis-
tered internally, with the addition of % an oz.
of chloroform for the above quantity, a teaspoon-
ful being put into the animal’s drink 3 times a

y.

CA TTLE’S HORNS, Sawing Of—A cel-
ebrated professor of a London Veterinary Col-
lege has said, concerning this practice: I con-
sider this to be a very gross act of cruelty, and
for this reason—that the horns of oxen are very

 

unlike those. of the deer species. They have a
large proportion of bone growing out from the
bone of the head, and that is surrounded by a
heavy sensitive structure, so that, to cut the an-
imal’s horns, they had to go below where it was
simply horny, and the animal had to suffer much
pain. The nearer the operation was performed
to the skull, the greater the suffering. That
bone was hollow—that is to say, it had not one
single horned cavity—but it had several cells
which extended into the head, though not to the
brain, but close to it. These cavities were ex-
posed, by the removal of the horns, to the air;
and as they are lined with a delicate, sensitive
membrane—there being, beside, a delicate, sen-
sitive covering outside—great suffering must be
caused. The cavities were never intended by
Nature to be exposed to the air, which brought
on an inflammatory condition. These cavities
were very apt to be inflamed, and the inflam-
mation was very likely to be extended to the
membranes of the brain, causing madness, lock-
jaw, or other dangerous results. This operation
is one of the most painful and unwarrantable
that could possibly be performed on cattle.

CA TTLE, SNAKE—BITTEZV, Remedyfor.
—Cattle or horses are usually bitten in the feet.
When this is the case, all that is necessary to do
is to drive them into a mud-hole and keep them
there for a few hours; if upon the nose, bind
the mud upon the place in such a manner as not
to interfere with their breathing.

CA TTLE, Sore Maul/z z’n.——Take a weak so-
lution of carbolic acid—say I to 5 drops to the
ounce of water—washing the mouth every few
hours, allowing a little to be swallowed, and
following this with mild tonics and food that
will not irritate the mouth.

CATTLE, Warts on.—I. To remove warts
from cattle, mix equal parts of blue vitriol, lard
and honey, and anoint them once in 4 or 5 days;
the will be removed without making a sore.—
2. {Nash with a strong ley made of pearlash and
water 3 times a day.—3. Or make 2 or 3 appli-
cations of lunar caustic.

CA T TLE, WENS OM—Wens cannot be
cured, except by a surgeon’s removing them al-
together with a scalpel, followed by the applica-
tion of a healing ointment.

COWS, ABORTION lM—The predispos-
ing cause for this disease is constitutional in the
animal, while the exciting cause may be ill-treat-
ment at the time of pregnancy, damp surround-
ings, food in which ergot of rye may be found,
impure water, etc. The predisposing cause can
be avoided by giving the generative organs of
the animal a rest. The doing of this, by a. free-
dom of from six months to a year from preg-
nancy, will almost insure freedom from abortion
——especially so if care is taken in the avoiding of
all supposable exciting causes. Many farmers
may not be willing to endure the loss involved
in this suggestion; but it will be a gain in the
end, because no animal - aborts without, in a
greater or less measure experiencing such a
shock to her system as will tell on her future
health and value.

COWS, Care of.—1. Cows should run dry 6
weeks before calving; if milked closely toward
calving, the calves will be poorer.

2. A cow newly come in should not drink
cold water in cold weather, but moderately warm
water. Calves, intended for raising, should be.

90

r

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

taken from the cow within a few days, and they

will be less liable to suck when they are old.

Feed them first on new milk for a short time,

and then on skim milk, taking care that all the

gauges are gradual, by adding onlya portion at
st.

3. Hearty eaters are desirable for cows, and
may usually be selected while calves. A dainty
cal will be a daint cow.

4.. Heifers drie up too early after calving,
will always run dry about the same time in after
years—therefore, be careful to milk closely the
first year, until about 6 weeks previous to the
time for calving.

5. Spring cows should come in while they are
yet fed on hay, and before they are turned to
grass, which will be more likely to prevent caked
ha and milk fever.

g. The best times for feeding the cow are early
in the morning, at noon, and a little before sun-

t

7. Abundance of the purest water must al-
ways be supplied, and it ought in all cases, when
racticable, be what is understood as soft water.
n winter the water given should be warmed to
the temperature of the air on a summer day.
8. The food given should be as nearly in its
natural state as possible. Cooking food, slops,

brewers’ grains, etc., are all objectionable, where fe d

eithgr firm, healthy flesh or pure rich milk is de-
sxre .

COWS, DAIRY, To Select—Cows of extra-
ordinary milking qualities are as often found
among the native as among grade and thorough-
bred animals; and, as a rule, the progeny of
these extra-milkers become the best cows, and
every heifer-calf from such should be raised, ex-
cept it fails to carry the mark indicating a ood
milker. This mark is the upward growth 0 the
hair on the inside of the thighs of the calf from
immediately behind the udder, as high as the
hair goes. If it be found running up in a very
smooth and unbroken column—all other things
being equal——with good care and continued fine
growth, there will scarcely be a failure. But
whatever extraordinary qualities the cow ma

ssess, unless this mark is found on the calf, it
is not worth raising for a dairy cow. There are
several other signs and conditions indicative of
valuable milking qualities, some of which attend
the first described. Smooth and fair-sized teats;
a large and long milk vein; slim neck; and
sometimes 6 teats ; a yellow skin, apparent
about the eyes and nose, and other bare spots,
are indications of rich milk, and one of the indi-
cations of a good cow.

COWS, FAR/BOW: What to Do W'ith—
Feed them liberally and they will give rich milk,
though, perhaps, not much of it. Let them
have 3 or 4 quarts of meal a day through the
winter and spring, and do not stop giving it to
them when grass comes. As soon as it dries
them up they will be fit for the butcher.

COWS, BLOODY MILK IM—To cure,
give a tablespoonful of milk in a little bran or
meal, and renewing the dose the second or third
day. Another remedy is to give a tablespoonful
of sulphur in a little dry bran once a day—in
very bad cases, twice a day.

COWS, GARGET INC—This disorder is
very frequent in cows after ceasing to be milked;
it affects the glands of the udder with hard
swellings, and often arises from the animal not

 

being clean milked. It may be removed by giv-
ing a pint of beans a day for 4 or 5 days. The
beans should be soaked and mixed with meal to
make the cow eat them; but the better way is to
grind the beans and feed a pint a day with other
meal. This wiil be found a sure remedy. An-
other plan is to give the cow I teaspoonful of the
tincture of arnica, in bran or shorts, three times
a day, and bathe the bag thoroughly with it as
often. The arnicafor bathing should be reduced
% in‘warm water, and bathe with the hand.
COWS, HARD—MILKING.—-The causes
for cows holding up their milk are various—ir-
regularity in time of milking, imperfect milking,
and lack of water in pastures; over—driving in
bringing animals home; the taking of the calf
away—and especially will this be the case where
the calf, while being reared, is kept in a situa-
tion where the mother can keep up an acquaint-
ance with it; and fi lly the presence of a vi-
cious or sulky disposi ion in the cow, the slight-
est dissatisfaction making them hold up their
milk. These last are unprofitable and only fit
for the shambles. The remedy in usual cases is,
besides the avoidance of the apparent cause,
gentleness, kind words, and a system ot petting
the animals, so as to gain their confidence and
affection, coupled with plenty of good water and

e .

COWS, A’ICKING.——Cows seldom kick
without some good reason for it. Teats some.
times are chapped or the udder tender; harsh
handling hurts them, and they kick. Sometimes
long and sharp finger nails cut their teats, and
sometimes the milker pulls the long hairs on the
udder, while milking. Shear off the long hairs,
cut long finger nails close, bathe chapped teats
with warm water, and grease them well with
lard, and always treat a cow gently. She never
will kick unless something hurts her, or she fears
a repetition of former hurts. When handled
gently cows like to be milked. When treated
otherwise, they will kick and hold up their milk.
Occasionally a cow is found that, like some men,
has a bad, ungovernable temper that flies at
merely imaginary ofi‘ences. For this class take
a small strap long enough for the purpose, and
bend the foreleg so as to bring the foot up to
the body. Then put the strap round the arm
and small part of the leg, near the hoof, crossing
between so as not to slip off over the knee, and
buckle. In this condition it is an impossibility
for a cow to kick; they may come to the knee a
few times, but are soon quiet. Never, as some
do, confine the hind legs, either singly or to-
gether, for in doing this there is danger of spoil-
ing the animal. Milkers should study the tem-
per of the cows they milk, and find out whether
a cow kicks on account of pain or willfulness.
If it is from bad temper, the strap applied to the
foot is a very good way to subdue her, but you
should avoid whipping and beating in all cases.

COWS, REE UMA T ISM [Al—The treat-
ment of rheumatism should consist in placing the
animal in a moderately warm place, and givmg
diet of a generous character. In cases where
the pain is severe, the tincture of aconite in go
drop doses may be given with advantage. Fric-
tion to the joints will be found beneficral; and,
where much swelling exists, the liniment of arn-
monia may be rubbed in daily. Cooling appli-
ances do not seem to suit this complaint. The
enlargements in the joints sometimes become

DOMESTIC ANIMALS—CA TTLE.

chronic, and should then be treated with appli-
cations of the tincture of iodine.

COWS, MILKLVG, lee Rig/it Method (5/:—
Some persons in milking seize the root 0 the
teat between the thumb and forefin er, and then
drag upon it until it slips out of their grasp. In
this way teat and udder are subjected to severe
traction for an indefinite number of times, and in
rude hands are often severely injured. Others,
again, by carelessness and want of thoroughness,
will cause the usual quantity of milk to shrink
one-third in 2 weeks. In many localities more
cows are ruined from faults of bad milking than
from all other causes that act specially on the
udder. The proper mode of milking is to take
the teat in the entire hand, and, after pressing it
upwar that it may be well filled from the capa-
cious lk reservoir above, to compress it first
at the base between the thumb and forefinger,
then successively by each of the 3 succeeding
fingers, until completely emptied. The teat is
at the same time gently drawn upon, but any se-
vere traction is altogether unnecessary, and
highly injurious. .

COWS, To Increase their Milk—Give your
cows, 3 times a day, water slightly warm, slightly
salted, in which bran has been stirred at the rate
of I quart to 2 gallons of water. You will find,
if you have not tried this daily practice, that the
cow will give 25 per cent, more milk, and she
will become so much-attached to the diet that
she will refuse to drink clear water unless very
thirsty, but this mess she will drink almost any
time and ask for more. The amount of this
drink necessary is an ordinary water-pail full
each time, morning, noon and night. Avoid
giving cows “ slops,” as they are no more fit for
the animal than the human.

COWS, Milk Fever in.—Immediately there
are indications of milk fever, the animal should
be restricted to an exclusive hay diet. This
treatment should be followed, even in summer
time, unless the animal is kept in very close pas-
ture and shows no tendency to fatten. This
moderate feeding of hay only should be contin-
ued until the fourth or fifth day after calving, at
which time the full flow of milk is established,
and the danger of puerperal fever has become
slight.

COWS, OLD, W/mz tok'z'll.—It is a ques-
tion among farmers as to what age cows can be
properly used for dairy purposes, and when it is

est to dispose of them on account of age. It
will depend somewhat on the breed of the ani-
imals and the usage they have received. As a
general rule, when a cow has entered her teens,
she has approximated closely the limit of her
usefulness in the dairy line. A good farmer has
remarked that a cow was never worn out so long
as there was any room on her horns for a new
wrinkle.

COWS, SELF—SUCKING.—A good, sim-
ple and cheap arrangement to prevent cows from
sucking themselves, or each other, may be made
by making a halter as follows: Take 2 or 3
straps 2 inches wide, and long enough to reach
around the cow’s nose. Stitch the edges to~
gether, and the ends also, with sharp nails in-
serted every 1% inches, so that the points will
stand outward. The heads of the nails should
be very large, and should be between the two
straps when sewed together. Now fasten two
lldc straps, with a buckle on one end of one, so

 

9:

that when the part with the nails is around the
nose the side straps may be buckled together
over the head, back of the horns; the part that
goes around the nose should be large enough to
allow the animal to eat freely. This arrange-
ment will be effectual, but many think it cruel,
especially in fly time. A much more desirable
and effectual method is to.put on a good strong
halter, put the animal in a ood stall, keep her
clean, and feed as much coo ted meal as she will
eat, until her milking season nearly runs out,
and then send her to the butcher. Doing this,
it will be found that the milk will ay for the ex-
tra feed and care, and the beef wi 1 be in prime
condition.

C O I’VS, Swelled Bag: in.-—An excellent rem-
edy for swelled bags of cows, caused by cold,
etc., is % an ounce of camphor gum to 2 ounces
of sweet oil; pulverize the gum, and dissolve
over a slow fire.

COWS’ TEA TS, Wart: on.-—Warts on the
teats of cows usually extend no deeper than the
skin. They should not be removed while the
cow gives milk. The most effectual way is to
take hold of the end of a wart with pliers, and
cut it off with shar shears. The out should
not be deeper than t e skin. This remedy will
not hurt a cow as much as clipping the skin does
sheep when they are being 5 eared; or a iece
of small wire may be twisted around a arge
wart sufficiently tight to obstruct the circulation
of the blood, and left on till the wart drops 08',
leaving the surface smooth.

CHALK FOR CA L VES.—When an animal
is found licking his fellow, it is proof that unea-
siness is present 1n the stomach, and the licking
of his neighbor is a habit contracted by instinct,
with a view of removing the unpleasantness.
Unfortunately instinct is not at all times suffi-
cient to avoid dangerous practices, and, if we
take for granted that the stomach is at all times
full charged with acrid matter, we shall without
he51tation find a remedy. It is only necessary
to place within their reach shallow troughs, in
which is kept a supply of common chalk. If an
animal has a superabundance of acrid secretion,
it will most certain] swallow some of the chalk,
which will as certainly neutralize the excess of
acrid. If an animal has not acrid in excess, and
partakes of the chalk, it will do no harm. It is
often too late to administer remedies to young
stock, and the placing of chalk within their
reach cannot be made too early.

COOKING FOOD FOR STOCK—The
great profit of steaming food to feed to stock is,
that it converts much of the woody fibre of hay,
straw, etc., into soluble, fat-forming nutriments.
It is commonly supposed that, as cattle chew the
cud, all the nutriment is extracted from the hay,
fodder, grain, etc., eaten. So far from this,
nothing short of boiling or its equivalent, steam-
ing, can convert woody fibre into soluble nutri-
ment. The same rule is applicable to grain, po-
tatoes, and roots generally; heat is essential to
dissolving the starch of grains and roots to ren-
der it available, as well as to dissolve the ele-
ments out of woody fibre. The heat of the an-
imal system, togfih with the gastric juices,
perform, but imper ec y, the same that steaming
or cooking does. Experience and careful ex-

eriments have demonstrated that a very much
arger proportion of food is assimilated into the
system if cooked than if fed uncooked. In very

92

cold weather a greater amount of heat-forming
matter is required to keep up animal heat than
in mild or warm weather. At such times extra
hay or straw may be fed, to sustain this heat,
without cuttin and steaming, yet this latter. pro-
cess would add largely to its nutriment, without
diminishing its heat-forming power. In this
connection the following directions will be found
serviceable :

To Cook Hay.—Cut it, wet it well, put it in
upright tanks or casks, with false bottom and
tight cover, press it down firmly, pass the steam
in under the false bottom, and cook until done.
To Cook Corn—Soak as many barrels, half-full,
as you wish to cook from x 5 to 24 hours ; turn
on steam and cook until done, when the barrels
should be full. To Make Marla—Fill as many
barrels half-full of water as you wish to make
barrels of mush; bring the water nearly to a
boil by passing the steam to the bottom ; stir in
each barrel from 1% to 1% bushels of meal un-
til well mixed; then cook until done, when the
barrels should be full. To Cook Vegdaélea—
Fill the barrels full, and, if no other cover is at
hand, chop the top fine with a shovel; then
cover them over with bran meal or provender,
and cook until done; have holes in the bottoms
of the barrels to carry off condensed steam.

COTTON SEED FOR STOClxi—Very
many farmers believe that cotton seed for stock
is superior to corn, and ample experiment seems
to confirm this view. To cook cotton seed, take
a large kettle, which holds from 5 to 6 bushels,
set it upon a brick furnace, fill it with cotton
seed fresh from the gin, and then fill up the ket-
tle with water, and boil something less than %
an hour; then empty the seed into troughs, and
let the cattle and hogs to them. The milk and
butter have none of that cotton-seed taste which
the green or uncooked seed gives. Both cattle
and hogs will keep in good order winter and
summer on seed thus prepared; and when you
are ready to fatten pork, you have only to add
an equal quantity of cotton-seed and corn, and
boil as above. Experience has proved that it
will fatten much sooner and be equally good as
when fattened on corn alone. Your cows will
give an abundance of milk all winter when fed
in this manner, with but I bushel of corn to 4
of cottonseed.

CONDIMENTAL FOOD, THORLE Y’S.
—The advertisements of the patentees of this
English preparation would lead to the belief
that their “ cattle food” contains more real nour-
ishment than the ordinary kinds of food which
have hitherto been given; but chemical analysis
shows the incorrectness of ~ these statements.
There is no secret in the composition, for the
test is at hand in a simple analysis. The follow-
ing is an ordinary formula to make I ton of the
meal: Take of Indian meal 900 weight, locust
bean finely ground 600 weight, best linseed cake
300 weight, powdered tumeric and sulphur of
each 40 lbs., saltpetre 20 lbs., licorice 27 lbs.,
ginger 3 lbs., aniseed 41bs., coriander and gen-
tian of each Io lbs., cream of tartar 2 lbs., car-
bonate of soda and levigated antimony each 6
lbs, common salt 30 lbs., Peruvian bark 4 lbs.,
fenugreek 22 lbs. The reader will observe that
the chief ingredients are corn meal, locust bean,
and linseed cake; these form its bulk, and con-
stitute nine-tenths of the whole, the remainder
being made up of “condiments.” There can

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

be no doubt whatever that the nutritive materials
which the compound contains are purchased at
an enormous expense, and really does not pay
for the purchase. V

CALVES, Core of.—To raise good calves-—
those that will make good cows—they must be
well fed from their birth, as it is impossible to
stint a calf in food till I year-—-or more—old, and
then bring the animal into as good condition, in
all respects, as could be done if the animal had
been well fed. Allow the calf to suck until the
milk is fit to use. To learn it to drink, take the
calf from the cow at the time mentioned, and
fasten it with about 6 feet of rope in a box stall;
then milk the cow, and standing off just far
enough for the calf to reach you, wet one finger
with milk, put it in its mouth, and gent lower
your hand until it is immersed in the mi in the
pail; let it continue to have the finger until it
has received enough. This is lesson No. I.
The second lesson is given in this wise : Dip the
finger in the milk and place it in its mouth, and
when you have brought its mouth in contact
with the feed, gradually withdraw your finger
and the thing is done. It ma be necessary to
repeat this at the third time. he secret is that
you must stand just far enough so that the calf
can just reach the pail of feed, as the rope will
then be taut, and hence he cannot reach you, or
butt over and 5 ill his milk or feed. It may be
remarked in t.is connection, that calves will
thrive better on milk that is not rich in butter
than on what is commonl called very rich milk.
The nutritive elements 0 milk reside chiefly in
the casein. If you have a cow that gives par-
ticularly rich milk, and one that gives a quality
poorer in butter, it is better in every way to feed
the calf on the milk of the latter. The calf will
thrive better, and you get more butter from the
milk of the first cow.

CAL VES, Lia- and Vermin on.——The best
applications to destroy lice, nits, etc., is a thor-
ough application of alcohol or kerosene oil.
Neither will do the animals any harm, and they
are much better than ointment of any kind.

CAL VES, To Cure Scour: in.-—Take I pint
of red oak acorns, break the shells, and steep
thoroughly in 3 pints of water, and you will have
I quart of the tea. Give I pint of the same,
warm, for the first dose, and the remainder 12
hours after, if necessary. I never knew more
than 2 doses required to effect a cure.

HOLLOI/VIIORN', or Horn Ail.—This dis-
order usually attacks cattle in the spring, after a
severe winter; likewise those that are in very
poor flesh, or those that have been overworked
and exposed to severe storms, or reduced by any
other diseases, are predisposed to take it. The
symptoms are as follows: Eyes dull, discharg.
ing yellow matter. dizziness, loss of appetite,
shaking of the head, bloody urine, coldness of
the horns, stupidity and great debihty. The
remedies that are recommended are as numerous
as they are contradictory. One authority ad-
vises boring gimlet holes in the horns 3 inches
from the head, while another advises not to bore
at all; one advises to bleed in the neck in the
same manner as a horse is bled, while another
deprecates bleeding. Another advises to put a
mixture of strong vinegar, (% ateaspoonful,)
fine salt and ground black pepper, (of each a ta-
blespoonful,) and, after allowing it to stand over
night, to put a tablespoonful in each ear of the .

DOMESTIC ANIMA 1.3— CA TTLE.

93

 

animadr affected. Another advises the cutting of
the hair off the top of the head, and then pour
or rub strong spirits of camphor thereon. And
still another advises the pouring of the camphor
in the ears. Where so many remedies and so
much advice is offered, it is safe to say that not
much is known of the real nature of the dis-

ease.

PIGS, How to Select Good—The desirable

points in a good pig are: Sufi‘icient depth and
ength of body to insure suitable lateral expan-
sion; broad on the loin and breast. The bones
small and joints fine ; legs no longer than, when
fully fat, to just prevent the animal’s belly from
trailing on the ground when walking; feet firm
and sound; the toes to press straightly on the
ground and lie well together; the claws should
be healthy, upright and even. The head small,
the snout short, forehead somewhat convex and
curving upward; the ears small but pendulous,
somewhat inclining forward; light and thin.
His carriage should be lively, sprightly, rather
than dull and heavy; a lively bright eye, and he
should carry his head up rather than down.
Those colors which are characteristic of the best
breed are to be chosen. The thinner the hair
of a black pig the nearer allied it is to the Nea-‘
politan, and consequently the less hardy, either
to endure the cold and change of seasons, or to
resist disease. White color indicates a connec-
tion with the Chinese Mixed colors show marks
of particular breeds; thus, if light or sandy, or
red with black marks, the Berkshire blood is de-
tected, etc.

PIGS, Blind Staggerr z'n.—The cause of this
disease is too high feeding. The cure is to
withhold their food for a day or two, and feed
them on very small quantities of sulphur and
charcoal.

PIGS, Lia on.—Procure some leaf tobacco,
and boil it to a strong amber in water enough to
float it; mix in, while hot, enough of lard or
refuse grease to make a thin salve; rub on the
pigs or hogs troubled, and in less than 24 hours
they will not have a louse on them, if thor-
oughly applied. Or get some crude petroleum
oil and apply once a month, and no more lice
will appear.

PIGS, MANG K—Mange is a disease caused
by the burrowing and breeding of a minute in-
sect in the skin, like the itch in man, scab in
sheep, etc. If pigs which have it, or have been
exposed to it, are washed with carbolic or cre-
sylic soap, and their pens and bedding sprinkled
with the same, a cure is easily effected. More
than one application might be required, and it
would be best to wash the animals at the inter-
val of a week.

KIA/GS, BULL, T a [mart—This can be
done in three ways: I. By burning the hole
through with a pointed rod of iron heated in the
forge, thus piercing and searing the wound at
the same time.—2. By punching out the hole
with an instrument like a leather punch of large
size.—3. By piercing the gristle of the nose with
a steel-tipped rod, (cold,) of which the point is
formed with two cutting edges. Perhaps it may
be an improvement to make the section of the
end, just above the point, triangular, or in the
shape of a four-pointed star. This last mode is
sat to be the preferable one. A point of iron
about 3 inches long, and hollowed out at the
large end, like the barrel of a key, to receive the

 

round end of the open ring, is used after the
hole has been pierced, as a guide to the ring.

SHEEP, AGE OF, [[020 to Tell.—The age
of sheep mav be known by examining the front
teeth: They are 8 in number, and appear dur-
ing the first year, all of a small size. In the
second year the 2 middle ones fall out, and their
place is supplied by 2 new teeth, which are eas-
ily distinguished, being of a larger size. In the
third year, 2 other small teeth, I from each side,
drop out, and are replaced by 2 large ones, so
that there are now 4 large teeth in the middle,
and 2 pointed ones on each side. In the fourth
year, the large teeth are 6 in number, and only
2 small ones remain, I at each end of the range.
In the fifth year, the remaining small teeth are
lost, and the whole front teeth are large. In the
sixth year, the whole begin to be worn ; and in
the seventh—sometimes sooner—some fall out
and are broken.

SHEEP AND LAZPIBS, Care and Manage-
ment qu—I. Keep sheep dry under foot with
litter. This is even more necessary than roof-
ing them‘ Never let them stand in mud or in
snow.——2. Do not starve them during the win~
ter, but by an abundance of food keep them in
good conditiqn. A more painful sight than the

ocks of many farmers, near the close of the
winter, cannot be witnessed. When a farmer
has more sheep than he can properly keep or
sell, he should kill the surplus when winter sets
in, even if he should get nothing from them but
the pelts.—3. Furnish an ample supply of wa.
ter, convenient of access, during the winter
months—4. Always try to avoid letting any of
your sheep or lambs have any sudden change of
food—5. Take up lamb bucks early in the sum-
mer, and keep them up until the December fol-
lowing, when they may be turned out—6. Drop
or take out the lowest bars as the sheep enter or
leave a yard, thus saving broken limbs.—7.
Count every day.———8. Begin feeding grain with
the greatest care, and use the smallest quantity
at first.—-—9. If a ewe loses her lamb, milk her
daily for a few days, and mix a little alum with
her salt—~10. Let no hogs eat with the sheep,
by any means, in the spring.——II. Give lambs a
little mill feed in time of weaning—12. Never
frighten sheep if possible to avoid it.—I3. Fur-
nish sow rye for weak ones in cold weather, if
possible—I4. Separate all those that are weak,
thin or sick from those that are stronO, in the
fall, and give them special care.-15. ItP any one
of your sheep is hurt, catch it at once and wash
the wound; and, if it is fly-time, apply spirits of
turpentine daily, and always wash with some-
thing healing. If a limb is broken bind it with
splinters, but not tight enough to interfere with
the circulation of the blood—I6. Keep a num-
ber of good bells on the sheep—r 7. Do not let
the sheep spoil their wool with chaff or burrs. —-
18. Cut tag-locks in early spring—19. For
scours, give pulverized alum in wheat bran ;
prevent by taking great care in changing dry for

reen feed—20. If one is lame, examine the
oot, clean out between the hoofs, pare the hoof
if unsound, and apply a wash of carbolic acid.
—-21. Shear at once any sheep commencing to
shed its wool, unless the weather is too severe,
and save carefully the pelt of any sheep that
dies.——22. If sheep are given pine boughs once
or twice a week they will create appetite, pre-
vent disease, and increase their ealth.—23.

94

Their general health during the grazing season
will be promoted by giving the sheep tar, at the
rate of a gill a day for every 20 sheep. Put the
tar in a trough, sprinkle a little fine salt over it,
and the sheep will consume it with eagerness.—
24. The best sheep to keep, both for wool and
mutton, is the American merino.

SHEEP, S TEERS, and 0t/zer Animals,
1?'umping Fences, To Prevent—Various devices

ave been resorted to in order to prevent such
trespasses, and especially in regard to sheep, but
none have succeeded, or only in a limited de-

ee. The following is a new one, and is not
cruel or painful, and will not greatly discommode
the animal operated upon, and isa remedy to the
employment of which there can be no objection.
It is to clip off the eyelashes of the under lids
with a pair of scissors, and the ability or dispo-
sition to jump is as effectually destroyed as was
Samson’s power by the loss of his locks. The
animal will not attempt a fence again until the
eyelashes are grown.

SHEEP, CA TARRH I’M—The following
is asserted to be a sure cure for this disease.
Take a quill from a hen’s wing, immerse the
feather end in spirits of turpentine, run it u the
nostril of the sheep the whole length 0 the
feather end, and twist it round before withdraw-
ing it; wipe it off clean each time before immer-
sing. One application will cure ordinary cases ;
the second or third, at intervals of 2 or 3 days,
will cure the worst.

SHEEP—A’ILLING DOGS—If sheep are
kept in the same lot with cows or fat cattle dogs
will not disturb them. As soon as the dogs ap-
proach them they run to the cattle, who drive off
the dogs. This plan will usually be found effect-
ual, but an additional safeguard is to put a good
sounding bell on one of the sheep. If a little
strychnine is put on a piece of meat (if tainted,
the better) and left in the yards or vicinity of the
sheep in the evening, if there be any dogs around
they will be in a condition for a part-marten; ex-
amination. An excellent way to trap sheep-kill-
ing dogs, is to place the sheep they kill, or at
least one of them, where' the dogs have left it;
then put 4or six lengths of fence around the
dead sheep, made of sawed scantling. Com-
mence by laying the scantling on the ground,
and as you lay them up, draw your scantling in
the width of them every time around, and build
the fence high enough in this way that a dog can
not jump it. Then lock the corners well, and
you have a pen that dogs can go over into from
the outside readily, and when once over, they
cannot get out of it again until they are helped
out. In this way, in a few nights, you will be
quite likely to get the very same dogs that killed
your sheep, as they will have the curiosity or de-
sire to go over the ground the second time. It
will be better to keep still about having your
sheep killed, for if you make any search for the
dogs you need not be at all surprised if you find
that every man’s dog is carefully shut up over
night. It is not at all likely that the dogs will
have had the blood stains washed from them, or
anyparticles of wool removed from betwixt their
teeth, on their return home in the morning, af-
ter having been out over night engaged in sheep-

lhng. -

SHEEP, T 0 Fallen for 1471'” ter-Other things
taken into consideration, large sheep fatten more
easily and profitably than small sheep, and full

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

grown animals than those that have not reached
maturity. Two-year-old wethers are the most
profitable to fatten, and it is a matter of consid—
erable surprise that so few of our farmers breed
them. Sheep will fatten readily in winter on
good clover hay alone ; we do not mean the dark
looking, burnt up stuff commonly called by that
name, but what an English farmer would call
“hay,” cut when in full bloom, and cut in such
a manner as to retain all its juices before they
are turned into woody fibre, and of a good green
color. A sheep of, say, 120 lbs. live weight,
will consume 21 lbs. of clover hay per week, and
increase in weight 2 lbs. Allowing that it would
ordinarily consume 14 lbs. to keep it in good
stationary condition, an expenditure of 7 lbs. of
hay extra will produce 1% lbs. of mutton,worth,
in the spring, 10 cents, so that the extra feeding
is literally realizing to the farmer at the rate of
nearly $30per ton for his hay. No other stock,
we think, will give such a return for the trouble
of fattening as this.

If it is desired to fatten sheep rapidly, the ad-
dition of a small quantity of oats to their food
will be of great service; a gallon of oats once a
day, among 20 sheep, will be a great help to
fattening. F attening sheep do not require very
warm quarters——in fact, they will not bear close
confinement, but their quarters must be dry,
well ventilated, and abundantly littered with
clean straw; they must be fed regularly, kept
quiet, have access to water, and an occasional
taste of salt. It will be found that when the
weather is very cold they will require to consume
somewhat more food than at other times, in or-
der to counteract the waste of substance used in
generating heat for their bodies, otherwise they
avill lose instead of gaining on cold or stormy

a s.

YS'HEEP, To Prater! from the Gad Fly.—In
August and September this fly lays its eggs in
the nostrils of sheep, where they are hatched,
and the worms crawl into the head, and very fre-
quently they eat through to the brain. In this
wa many sheep are destroyed. As a protection
smirch their noses with tar. Lay some tar in a
trough or on a board, and strew fine salt on it—
the sheep will finish the operation. The tar will
protect them, and what they cat will promote
their health.

SHEEP, FOOT -R0 T 11V, To Cure—Causes
—exposure in bad weather, but particularly from
soft and low lands and wet pasturage. It never
occurs on hard, mountainous districts. The best
mode of cure is that by arsenic. The moment
you perceive that any of our sheep have become
lame, pass them throug a trough containing a
warm solution of arsenic of about the following
strength: 4 ounces of arsenic, four ounces of
soda ash or potash, I gallon of water; boil till
dissolved; keep it about 3 inches deep, so as to
cover the foot as the sheep walk through; the
trough should be about 20 feet long, and just
wide enough to admit I sheep walking after the
other. 3000 sheep can be run through in about
3 hours; and this will result in a cure in every
instance.

SHEEP, Hay Rack: fem—The cheapest and
best rack for sheep can be made of 8 boards (4
long and 4 short ones) nailed to 4 posts, form-
ing an inclosure 12 or more feet long, as the
case may be, and 32 inches wide. The bot»
tom board should be at least 10 inches wide

I

DOMESTI C ANIMALS—CA TTLE.

and the top one need not be over 4, with a space
between of from 6 to 8 inches, depending some-
what upon the size of the sheep that are to eat,
standing with their heads thrust through this
aperture. . _

SIIEEP, Inflammation of Lung: m.—This
disease is caused by wet and cold pastures, chills
after hard driving, washing before shearing when
the water is at too low a temperature, shearing
when the weather is too chilly and wet, and other
circumstances of a similar description. Its first
indication is that of a fever, hard and quick
pulse, disinclination for food, ceasing to chew
the cud, unwillingness to move, slight heavmg
of the flanks, and a frequent and painful cough.
The disease soon assumes a more aggravated
form; but it is sufficient for the farmer to know
the first stages of the malady, when he can pur-
sure the course of treatment which experience
determines best.

SHEEP, RED WA TE}? I'M—To cure this
complaint take of Epsom salts r ounce, linseed
oil I ounce, gentian I drachm, ginger I scruple,
warm water 2 ounces. For a lamb give % of
this amount, but to a full-grown sheep the entire
quantity. Foment the abdomen with warm wa-
ter—a lamb, in fact, may be placed altogether in
a warm bath. In cases of recovery a change of
food must be afforded, and a short, sweet pas-
ture should be preferred. '

SHEEP, RHEUMA TISM. IM—This dis-
ease consists in apeculiar inflammation of the
muscles of the body, very frequently causing
considerable pain when they are called into ac-
tion. It is usually caused by exposure to cold,
and sometimes shifts from one foot to another,
occasionally degenerating into a slow or chronic
form, and attacking the sinews, ligaments, and
'oints, as well as the muscles. The neck and
loins are the parts most frequently attacked,
either separately or combined. The former af-
fection causes the head to be carried in a bent
position, and the latter produces considerable
stiffness and weakness of the loins. The treat-
ment should consist in removing the animal to a
comfortable place, giving an active purgative,
such as 2 ounces of Epsom salts dissolved in
warm water, with a drachm of ginger, and % an
ounce of spirits of nitrous ether. A stimulant,
such as hartshorn and oil, or opodeldoc, should
be well rubbed over the affected part; and if the
disease assumes a chronic form, a seton should
be inserted near the part.

SHEEP, SCAB [NI—This disease closely
resembles the itch in man, and is caused by a
very minute parasite called the scab mite. These
creatures find no dwelling-place on healthy,
clean-skinned sheep; but when they do find the
requisite conditions they multiply with astonish-
ing ra idity, and spread through the flock, and
from ock to flock. The females burrow in the
skin, and make little sores, in or under which
they deposit their eggs, which hatch, and in a
short time go to work producing broods them-
selves. The sores thus caused run together and
form scabs; they make an intolerable itching,
and the sheep bite and scratch themselves fear-
fully, tearing out their wool in patches over their
bodies. The disease is sometimes an epidemic,
and through whole regions the flocks suffer so
terribly that government action has been neces-
sary to prevent their extinction. The suffering
animals become more and more emaciated; their

 

95

wool falls ofi‘; their bodies are covered with nau-
seous scabby sores ; their nervous system is in-
capable of sustaining the pain, and its functions,
with those of the skin, being deranged, the di~
gestive organs sympathize, and the sheep finally
die. The remedies for the scab are numerous,
but the best discovered is the use of a solution of
sulphuret of lime, as racticed in Australia, and
is made as follows: ake 100 lbs. of flour of
sulphur, 50 lbs. of lime, (quick-lime, if possi-
ble, or a large proportion slaked,) and 100 gals:
of cold water. Put these into a boiler. Keep
them mixed by constantly stirring until they
boil, and then keep boiling and stirring for about
10 minutes, until a clean, dark-brown, orange~
tinted solution supervenes; then mix I gallon
of this solution with 3 gallons of hot water, and
make your dip or bath, heated to 100 or “4° of
Fahrenheit, and plunge your sheep oflr head in
it for about a minute. When they are dry the
cure is complete; but to prevent the risk of re-
infection, and to secure yourself against the
chance of an imperfect muster, a second clip, af-
ter [0 days, in a bath of % the above strength
will render assurance doubly sure. This had
better be done after the sheep is shorn; but even
if the wool is long, it will not in the least degree
injure the health of the animal or the fibre of the
wool; but, on the contrary, by absorption it
passes into and improves the constituents of the
blood, and stimulates, through its action on the
natural perspiration, the growth of the wool.

SHEEP, Direction: {or SHEA RIN G.——The
shearer may place the s eep on that part of the
floor assigned to him, resting on its rump, and
himself in a posture with his right knee on a
cushion, and the back of the animal resting
against his left thigh. He grasps the shears
about half-way from the point to the bow, resting
his thumb along the blades, which gives him a
better command of the points. He may then
commence cutting the wool at the brisket, and,
proceeding downward, all upon the sides of the
belly to the extremity of the ribs, the external
sides of both sides to the edges of the flanks,
then back to the brisket, and thence upward,
shearing the wool from the breast, front, and
both sides of the neck, but not yet the back of
it, and also the poll, or forepart, and top of the
head. Then “the jacket is opened,” and its
position, as well as that of the shearer is then
changed, by the animal’s being turned flat upon
its side, one knee of the shearer resting on the
cushion, the other gently pressing the fore-quar-
ter of the animal to prevent any struggling. He
then resumes cutting upon the flank and rump,
and thence onward to the head. The sheep is
then turned on the other side—in doing which
great care is requisite to prevent the fleeces being
torn; and the shearer proceeds as upon the other
side. He must then take the sheep near to the
door through which it is to pass out, and neatly
trim the legs, leaving not a solitar lock any-
where as a lodging-place for ticks. It is abso-
lutely necessary for him to remove from his
stand to trim, otherwise the useless stuff from
the legs becomes intermingled with the fleece.
wool. In the use of the shears, the blades must
be laid as flat to the skin as possible, the points
not lowered too much, nor should more than I
or 2 inches be cut at a clip, and frequently not so
much, but depending on the compactness of the
W00 .

95

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

SHEEP, STRETCHES IM—A method
that is recommended to cure this disease is as
follows: Take 6 red peppers, boil them thor-
oughly, and give the juice, as hot as can be giv-
en, in doses of 1/2’ a pint at a time. This is to
be followed by giving the sheep plent of exer-
cise by running them about the fields or 5 or 10
minutes.

SOWS NEAR FARROWING, Treatment
qfi—During the whole period of pregnancy
sows should be moderately well fed, but not to
produce too much fat, as this will reduce the
number of the litter, or risk their being smoth-
ered by their unwield dam lying down on them.
As farrowing approac es, the food must be semi-
liquid or gently laxative, since costiveness at this
period fosters fever, and hence sows devour
their offs 'ng. Gentle exercise is beneficial to
all pregn t healthy animals, and for this the
pen should be roomy. It is best to protect the
' sow against injury from other pigs. The pen
should be airy and clean, and, until the last day
a two of pregnancy, comfortably littered. As
the time approaches, or when uneasiness, or the
piling of litter for a bed, shows its near advent,
clear out the pen, and cover it with a thin litter

of chaff only. This is necessary to prevent.

smothering the pigs, particularly if the sow be
large or fat. Soon remove the pigs when they
are brought forth, hel ing them away until after
the after-birth. In a1 circumstances the after-
birth should be removed at once. However
natural it may be for the wild animal to devour
this, the practice, if permitted among domesti-
cated swine, develops the propensity to devour
their offspring. A drink of milk, gruel, or In-
dian or oatmeal and hot water will be at once
grateful and supporting to the sow during and
after parturition ; and as soon as the secretion of
milk is freely established, the diet should be
abundant, soft and laxative. The pen should be
kept clean. The litter of chaff should be of a
limited amount for a week, until the pigs can be
better able to protect themselves.

STEERS, How to Break—It is best to begin
with them as calves, and let the boys play with
them, and drive them tied or yoked together,
taking care they are not abused. When a pair
of old steers are to be put together and broken
to the yoke, or a pair of bulls, as not unfre-
quently happens, it is usually best to yoke them,
and tie their tails together, in extempore stall, in
a well fenced yard, and then turn them loose in
the yard, which should not be large enough for
them to run in and get under much headway.
If the tails are not tied together, they will fre-
iuently turn the yoke, which is a very bad habit.

fter half a day’s association, the lesson of “ ye
up it” and “whoa” may be inculcated and—-
these being well learned—«probably the next day
“haw” and “gee.” The daily lesson should
be given after they have stood yoked awhile.
They should not be taken from the yard until
they have become used to the yoke, and are no
longer wild and scarey, as they are apt to be at
first. Each day all previous lessons should be
repeated. Put them before an ox sled or a pair
of cart wheels at first, rather than to a stone
boat, as they are apt to step on the chain, and
that frightens them. All treatment should be
firm but mild, and no superfluous words should
be employed. If these directions are carried
out, the result will be satisfactory.

 

HORSES.

BALSAM W0 UND.-—Gum benzoin in
powder 6 02., balsam of tolu in powder 3 02.,
gum storax 2 02., frankincense in powder 2 02.,
gum myrrh in powder 2 02., socotorine aloes in
powder 3 02., alcohol I gal. Mix them all to-
gether and put them in a digester, and give them
a gentle heat for 3 or 4 days, and then strain.

BALL, C'OUGfL—Pulverizedipecac % 02.,
camphor 2 02., squills % 02. Mix with honey
to form into mass, and divide into 8 balls. Give
I every morning.

BALLS, DI URE T I C.-—Casti1e soap scraped
fine, and powdered rosin, each 3 teaspoonfuls;
powdered nitre 4 teaspoonfuls, oil of juniper I
small teaspoonful, honey a sufficient quantity to
make into a ball.

BALLS, FE VER.-—Emetic tartar and cam-
phor each % 02., and nitre 2 ounces. Mix with
linseed meal and molasses to make 8 balls, and
give I twice a day. .

BALL, PH YSI C.—Take 2 oz. of aloes, I 02.
of turpentine, and I 02. of flour; make into a
paste with a few drops of water, wrap in a paper,
and give them with a bailing iron.

BALL, PURGA TIVE.———Aloes I 02., cream
tartar and Castile soap % 02. Mix with molas-
ses to make a ball.

BALL, WORM—Assafetida 4 02., gentian
2 02., strong mercurial ointment I 02. Make
into mass with honey. Divide into 16 balls.
Give I or more every morning.

BA ULXY HORSES, To Cum—A man, in
order to be able to control a horse, must first
learn to control himself; for, as a rule, when a
horse is patiently made to understand what is
required of him, he becomes a willing subject.
To attempt to force him to do what he does not
understand, or to use the whip under such cir-
cumstances, only excites him to more determined
resistance. One method to cure a baulky horse
is to take him from the carriage, and whirl him
rapidlyround till he is giddy. It requires 2 men
to accomplish this—I at the horse’s tail. Don’t
let him step out. Hold him to the smallest pos—
sible circle. I dose will often cure him; 2 doses
are final with the worst horse that ever refused
to stir. Another is to fill his mouth with dirt
or gravel from the road, and he will at once go
—the philosophy of this being that it gives him
something else to think about.

BLISTER, LIQUID—Take y; a pint of
linseed oil, I pint of spirits of turpentine, and 4.
oz. of aqua ammonia; shake well and it is fit
for use. Apply every third hour until it blis.

ters.

BIG LEG-«To cure, apply the above Liquid
Blister every third hour until it blisters. In 3
days wash the leg with linseed oil. In 6 days
wash it clean with soap and water. Repeat ev-
ery 6 days until the swelling goes down. _If
there should be any callous left, apply spavm
ointment.

BIG HEAD.—-—When this disease occurs, ev-
ery care must be devoted to improving the gen-
eral health. Let work be regular and moderate.
Have the stable clean, dry, and well ventilated.
Feed on sound hay and oats, either bruised or
cooked. Withhold all Indian corn— above all if
raw and hard. 4 or 5 lbs. of linseed cake may
be given daily. Give every day, in the feed, 2

3),.

lock joint.

DOMESTIC ANIMALS—HORSES.

drachms of phosphate of iron, and 4 drachms of
powdered gentian.

BIG SHOULDER.— See Big Head.

BREAS TS, SORE.-—This generally occurs
in the spring, at the commencement of plowing.
At times the fault is in having poor old collars,
and not having the collar properly fitted to the
horse’s breast; and, at others, the hames are
either too tight or too loose. There is a great
difference in horses about getting chafed or gall-
ed, and at times it has seemed to be impossible
to keep their breasts from getting sore; but a
thorough application of strong alum water or
white oak bark to the breast of the animal, 3
days before going to work, will toughen them so
that they will not get sore. Another excellent
plan is, when you let your team rest for a few
moments during work, to raise the collar and
pull it a little forward, and rub the breast thor-
oughly with your naked hand.

BREAKING DO WM—The suspensory lig-
ament is attached superiorly to the back part of
the knee, and inferiorly to the back of the fet-
It is elastic and gives springiness to
the limb. In motion and in standing it pas-
sively supports the horse’s fetlock. If this lig-
ament is torn or cut across, the joint comes to
the ground and the toe turns up; if se’verely
strained, the fetlock descends unnaturally low.
In breaking down, the fetlock is almost com-
pletely torn across, and the fetlocks come nearly
or completely to the ground. Considerable
swelling soon ensues above and behind the fet-
lock; there is great pain and symptomatic fe-
ver, and in severe cases the tendons are gener-
ally sprained. When the suspensory ligament
is completely ruptured, and where the injury oc-
curs in both fore legs, treatment need not be at-
tempted. In severe cases the leg should be im-
mersed in a pail of water, and kept in it for sev-
eral days. When the pain and fever subside,
wet bandages may be used. A dose of opening
medicine should also be given. Bran mashes
and hay should constitute the horse’s diet at the
first, and when pain and fever subside the diet
may be more liberal. In bad cases ahigh-heeled
shoe may be applied, or the horse may be slung
so as to relieve the affected leg of weight.

BLOOD, Fuhrer: of.-—When this condition
appears, the eyes appear heavy, dull, red or in-
flamed, and are frequently closed as if asleep;
the pulse is small and oppressed; the heat of
the body somewhat increased; the legs swell;
the hair also rubs off. Horses that are removed
from grass to a warm stable, and full fed on hay
and corn, and not sufficiently exercised, are very
subject to one or more of these symptoms. By
regulating the quantity of food given to him, by
proper exercise and occasional laxatives, a cure
may soon be effected.

BOWELS, LOOSE—In cases of chronic
diarrhea, a good remedy is to put powdered
charcoal in the feed, and if the disease depends
on a digestive function—the liver included—give
a few doses of the following: Powdered golden
seal 2 oz., ginger I oz., salt I oz. Dose—% an
oz. twice a day.

BOTTS.—-Botts are the larvae of the gad fl ,
of which there are 3 different kinds. The f:-
male gad fly, during the summer months, de-
posits her ova on the horses’ legs or sides, and
they become firml attached to the hair. After
remaining on the eg for some time, perhaps 4

 

97

or 5 days, they become ripe, and at this time the
slightest application of warmth and moisture is
suflicient to bring forth the latent larvae. At
this period, if the tongue of the horse chances
to touch the egg, its operculum is thrown open,
and a small worm is produced, which readily ad-
heres to the tongue, and with the food is con-
veyed into the stomach, and therein is lodged
and hatched. It clings to the cuticular coat by
means of its ternacula, between which is its
mouth; and in such a firm manner does it ad.
here to the lining of the stomach, that it will
suffer its body to be pulled asunder without
quitting its hold. Bots are often supposed to do
a good deal of harm, but except in cases where
they accumulate in very large numbers, we are
of the opinion that they are almost harmless,
because in ordinary cases they are chiefly at-
tached to the cuticular coat, and the cuticular
coat of the stomach is not possessed of a great
degree of sensibility. Most horses that have
been running at pasture during the summer
months become affected more or less with bots,
and their presence in the stomach is thus ac-'
counted for. When a horse is troubled with the
bots, it may be known by the occasional nipping
at their own sides, and by red pimples and pro.
jections on the inner surface of the upper lip,
which may be seen plainly by turning up the lip.
To remove them, take of new milk 2 quarts,
molasses I quart, and give the horse the whole
amount. 15 minutes afterward give 2 quarts of
very warm sage tea, and 30 minutes after the
tea give I pint of linseed oil, (or enough to op-
erate as a physic.) Lard has been used, when
the oil could not be obtained, with the same suc-
cess. The cure will be complete, as the milk
and molasses cause the bots to let go their hold,
the tea puckers them up, and the oil carries them
entirely away. The spring is the only season in
which there is a chance to effectually remove
them.

CA T ARA C T.~—This can be removed from a
horse’s eye with finely pulverized burnt alum,
blown into the horse’s eye through a goose quill.
Or take oil of Wintergreen, get a small glass
syringe, and inject a few drops into the eye, and
after 3 days repeat the application.

CA TARRIJ, NASAL, or Corryza.—This
malady is commonly known as a cold; it is an
inflammation of the membrane lining the inte-
rior of the nose, and is observed in all the do-
mestic animals. It occurs frequently after sud-
den changes in the temperature of the atmos-
phere, which checks or diminishes largely the
action of the skin. In the early stage the- ani.
mal is feverish; the membrane of the nose is
dry and infected; the animal also frequently
sneezes and coughs. There is a watery mucous
discharge from one or both nostrils, which by
degrees assumes a yellowish color. In young
animals this affection is generally associated
with swellings beneath the jaws. When the
disease extends over'a longer period than a fort-
night it assumes a chronic type. Trealmmt.—
Dissolve % an 02. of nitre in a. pint of water,
and administer this. to the patient daily, or it
maybe miXed with the water which the- horse
drinks. A bran mush. should. be given every
other day. When the disease assumes a chronic
form, which is seldom the case, injecting the
nose with a weak solution of alum will- remove
the discharge. » Young, horses are very apt to

93

have swelled legs unless they get walking exer.
cise for a short time every da . This is owing
partly to the weakness of t e circulation, and
partly to a deteriorated state of the blood having
een engendered during the horse’s sickness.

CA S T RA T I 0N.-—A most important point to
be considered is the proper time for the opera-
tion to be performed, and when that is satisfac-
torily decided, employ none other than a dim-
oughly competent individual to assume the duty.
Very many of the defects observable in geldings
are attributable to too earl or too late a. period
of castration, and might have been, in a great
measure, avoided by a judicious selection of the
time suitable for its occurrence. A colt whose
development will warrant his being cut at 5 or
6 months of age, will be in very slight danger
from the operation; but few are so formed,
much the larger number requiring a year’s full
growth to sufficiently perfect them, and others
exceeding even that age. The withers, neck and
shoulders are the most frequently deficient, and
are parts that are most dependent upon castra-
tion for their proper appearance in the horse.
The weather of late spring or early autumn will
be found the most suitable time for castrating,
when the air is dry and temperate. Upon no
consideration should the animal, after being cut,
be exposed to wet or inclement weather, or un-
sheltered from too hot a sun. Close confine-
ment, or unlimited exercise, is equally prejudic-
ial to an early and successful healing of the parts,
and moderate liberty should in all cases be al-
lowed the patient.

Speaking of the operation, Mr. Youatt says:
“The old method of opening the scrotum (test-
iml bag) on either side, and cutting off the test-
icles, and preventing bleeding by a temporary
compression of the vessels, while they are being
seared with a hot iron, must not, perhaps, be
abandoned; but there is no necessity of that ex-
tra pain, when the spermatic cord (the blood
vessels and the nerve) is compressed between 2

ieces of wood as tightly as in a vise, and then
ett until the following day, or until the testicle
drops off.” He also objects to the unnecessary
pain inflicted upon colts by cor ing them, and
states that it is accompanied With considerable
danger. With regard to the method of castra-
tion by Torison, he adds: “ An incision is made
into the scrotum, and the var deferem is exposed
and divided; the artery is then seized by a pair
of forceps contrived for the purpose, and is then
twisted round 6 or 7 times. It retracts without
untwisting the coils, and bleeding ceases, the
testicle is removed, and there is no sloughing or
danger. The most painful part of the oderation,
which is that of the firing-irons or the clamps is
avoided, and the wound readily heals.”

CLICKING—This is noticeable by a disa-
greeable clicking noise made by the horse strik~
,ing the toe of his hind shoe against the inner
edge of the fore one. To prevent this annoying
habit, shoe the hind foot short at the toe—that is
to say, set the shoe as far back as is compatible
with security and safety; the fore shoe should be
forged narrow with the inner margin filed round
and smooth.

COL1C.—-S mptom: .' The horse often lies
down, and su denly rises again with a spring;
strikes his belly with his hind feet, stamps with
his fore feet, and refuses every kind of food, etc.
The following is said never to fail in curing cases

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

of colic: Aromatic spirits of ammonia 1 an 02.
laudanum .r% 02.; mix with I pint ff water:
and administer. If not relieved, repeat the dose
in a short tiine. Another and a better remedy is
to take a piece of carpet, blanket, or any thick
material, large enough to cover the horse from
his fore to his hind legs, and from the spine to
the floor as he lies, and wring it out in hot water
as hot as you can stand. You need not fear
scalding the animal. Apply this to the horse,
and cover it with a similar dry cloth. As soon
as the 'heat diminishes much, dip the wet cloth
again in hot water.

COLLAR, How to Fit a Hana—An excel-
lent plan, and one that will not injure the collar,
is to dip it in water until the leather is thoroughly
wet, then put it on the horse, secure the hames
firmly, keeping it there until it becomes dry. It
is all the better if heavy loads are to be drawn,
as that causes the collar to be more even] fitted
to the neck and shoulder. If possible, t e col-
lar should be kept on from 4 to hours, when
it Will be perfectly dry, and retain t e same shape
evea afterwards; and as it is exactly fitted to the
form of the neck, will not produce chafes nor
sores on the horse’s neck.

C CRIME—There are no fixed rules for the
treatment of horses with corns. Corns occur to
horses with the best of feet. The high-heeled
and contracted quartered, the low as well as the
broad, all occasionally become afflicted with this
annoying disease, the common cause being the
worst of shoeing. Success in the treatment of
corns must rest entirely upon the intelligent un-
derstanding of the shoer. If he is master of the
art, he will see at a glance what parts of the foot
require to removed. In the preparation of the
foot, no matter what its form, so long as there is
no reason to suspect suppuration, no “paring
out the corn” should be permiited. When such
offiCious exploration is permitted, the healthy
condition of the whole foot is interfered with;
the scooping out or the horn at the angle formed
by the wall and bar interferes with the natural
growth of these parts, causes them to tilt over
rnd to press directly upon the seat of the corn,
thus inflicting injuries which frequently termi-
nate in suppuration. Let the horse’s foot be
properly adjusted in all its parts, always leaving
as broad and level a bearing surface as possible.
With regard to the shoe, unless the condition of
the horse’s foot requires some special modifica-
tion for its protection, we prefer a plain shoe, a
small clip at the toe, moderately broad web, and
of uniform thickness from toe to heel.

COLTS, T heir Care and Management.—
Much harm arises from improper weaning. A
good method is, when the colt is 4 or 5 months
old, to put a strong halter upan him, place him
in a stall, and put his mother in an adjoining
stall, with a partition between, so arranged that
they can see each other, and, if possible, get
their heads to ether. The first day let the colt
nurse twice—t e next day once. Feed the mare
upon dry hay and dry feed, and about half milk
her 2 or 3 times a day until dry. Feed the colt
upon new-mown grass or fine clover hay, and
give him a pint of oats twice per day, and in
about 2 weeks you will have yaur colt weaned,
and your mare dry, and your colt looking as well
as ever. When he is 1 year old he has as much
growth and development of muscle as one 2

 

years old weaned in the usual manner. When

DOAIESTI C ANIMALS—HORSES.

99 .

 

the mare becomes dry, colt and mare may be
again turned in (pasture. An opinion generally

revails among armers that, from the time the
cal is taken from its dam up to coming maturity,
it should not be “ pushed,” as the saying is, nor
fed on grain, for fear it would injure one so
young and tender. This accounts for the great
number of moping or spiritless and unthrifty
colts, that are scarcely able to drag one leg after
another. Their very appearance, cadaverous
and pitiful looks, seem to convey to the mind of
every sensible man that they are the victims of a
wretched system of starvation, which enervates
the digestive organs, impairs the secretions, and
impoverishes the blood. Hence the deficiency in
the development of bone and muscle. The mus-
cles and tendons, being so illy supplied with ma-
terial for growth and development, become very
weak, and afford but little support to the bones
and joints, so that the former become crooked
and the latter weak—defects which no after feed-
ing, no skill in training can counteract. It must
be known to breeders that from the time of birth
up to maturity, colts require food abounding in
flesh-making principle, nitrogenous compounds
—oats, corn, etc.; otherwise they must naturally
be deficient in size, symmetry, and powers of en-
durance. Therefore they should be regularly
fed and watered; and their food should consist
of ground oats, wheat bran, and sweet hay, in
quantities suflicient to promote their growth.
Finally, proper shelter should always be provided
for them. They should not be exposed, as they
often are, to the vicissitudes of the weather, un-
der the false notion of making them tough and
hardy. Equally unwise is it to confine colts to
close, unventilated, and filthy stables, deprived
of light, exercise, and pure air. They should be
groomed every da ; aclean skin favors the vi-
talization of the b ood. They should be permit-
ted to gambol about as much as they choose.
Exercise develops muscle, makes an animal ac-
tive and spirited, and increases the capacity of
the lungs and chest. By the above means, and
proper attention to the principles of breeding,
the business of raising colts may become both
creditable and profitable.

COLT, To Prwentfram yumping.—Pass a
good stout surcingle around his body; put on
his halter, and have the halter stra long enough
to go from his head, between his ore legs, then
through the surcingle, and back to one of his
hind legs. Procure a thill strap, and buckle
around the leg between the foot and joint; fasten
the halter stra in this—shorter or longer, as the
obstinacy of t e case may require. It is also
useful to keep colts from running where there is
likely to be danger from the result. If the thill
strap should cause any soreness on the leg, it
may be wound with a woolen cloth, and it would
be well to change from one leg to the other occa-
sional] .

C0 7', CALL US OAK—Take I 02. of bitter
sweet, I oz. of skunk cabbage, 1 oz. of blood
root; steep and mix with lard; make an oint-
ment, and apply once or twice a day. This is
considered a sure remedy.

C OUGli—Take powdered squills I 02., gin-
ger 2 02., cream of tartar I oz. ; mix well, and
give a. spoonful every morning in bran. Another
remedy is to give the animal a feed of sunflower

CitlBBING.—There is supposed to be no

 

remedy for this habit, but a person who has

tried it says that a horse can be cured of crib-

biting by nailing a sheepskin, wool side up,

wherever there is any chance for the horse to.
bite.

DIS TEMPER.—The treatment of distemper '
should consist in good nursing rather than active
or officious medication. In the first instance the
animal should, if convenient, be removed to a
loose box, with extra warm clothing, flannel ban- "
dages to the legs, deprivation of grain, warm,
mashes, and a small quantity of damped hay.‘
If the running at the nose is considerable, the
throat very sore, and the cough troublesome, it
will be advisable to wrap several folds of thick
flannel around the throat, which should be kept
constantly wet with alcohol, or weak camphor
and spirit—that is, I part camphor dissolved in;
16 parts alcohol. A dose of 4 drs. of either ni- '
[rate or sulphate of potass, dissolved in the
drinking water, ma be given once or twice each
day. Active stimu ants, particularly blisters, are
wholly inadmissible. Demulcient drinks, such
as linseed tea, hay tea, or oat or cornmeal, are
useful and often acceptable. The animal should
remain quiet in his box until all irritation in his
throat has completely passed away. Even when
the horse is “ convalescent,” the owner must not
be in a hurry to get him into fast work, because
the membrane of the larynx (upper portion of
the windpipe) will continue to be for some time
very susceptible of irritation and inflammation.
In the advanced stages, if the debility is great
and the appetite poor, much benefit is derived
from the administration of tonics and stimulants.
The following may be given daily: Iodide of
iron I dr., extract of gentian 4 drs. ; mix for to
make I ball, or dissolve in a pint of ale and then
give as a drink. In cases, however, which areI
progressing favorably, Nature had better be left ,-
to herself, and tonics should only be resorted to
when the symptoms really indicate the need of

them.

DRESSING HOOK—A good pre aration,
and one that will give the horse’s hoo a rapid
and healthy growth, is to take of oil of tar I pt.,
beeswax 1% lbs., whale oil 4 pts. The above .
ingredients should be mixed and melted together
over a slow fire, and applied to all parts of the
hoof at least once or twice a week.

EYE, Inflammation af.-—Keep the horse
quiet, and dress the eye repeatedly with the fol-
lowing lotion: Take of tincture of opium 2 02.,
and of water I pt.; mix. Much depends upon
a proper application of the lotion, and a most
advantageous proceedin is to attach several
folds of linen rag to the eadstall so as to cover
the eye, and by being repeatedly saturated it
will keep up constant evaporation, as well as a
cooling effect. The horse should also be re-
moved from excessive light. When the inflam-
mation has been subdued, the opacity—more or
less of which is sure to remain—must be treated
by the application of either iodide of potassium
or nitrate of silver, prepared thus: Take of io-
dide of potassium 20 grs; water x 02. ; mix; or
take of nitrate of silver 5 grs., distilled water I
ounce; mix. To be applied daily by means of a
camel’s-hair brush saturated with the lotion and
drawn gently across the eye.

FARCK—In most cases farcy is indicated b
the appearance of one or more pustules, whic
break into a very peculiar, deep, abrupt uloa',

[00

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

having thick inverted edges, which bleed freely
on the slightest touch. The matter discharged
from a farcy bud is either of a dirty, dingy yel-
low color or of a glue-like character; in either
case it is offensive. Or it may be bloody or ich-
orous. In the latter case it abrades the surface
on which it falls, or gravitates its irregular cord-
ed lines into the cellular tissues, and hence it
helps to spread the disease. In other cases this
complaint commences with a very painful swell-
ing of the hind leg, followed by the peculiar in-
tractable ulcers described above. In treatment,
the horse should receive good care, fresh air,
regular, moderate exercise, and be carefully kept
apart from all others. Give daily in food for a
fortnight 2 drs. of iodide of iron, 4 grs. of can-
tharides, with 2 drs. each of powdered ginger
and aniseed. The ulcers or sores should be
dressed daily with carbolic acid.

FEET, HORSES’, Care of.-—Every person
may see, upon turning up the bottom of a horse’s
foot, an angular rojection pointing towards the
toe, termed the mg and its bars, the remainder
or hollow part being technically called the sole,
though the entire bottom of the foot might bet-
ter receive this name. It is certain, however,
that the “frog and sole” require pressure—a
congenial kind of ressure without concussion—'
that shall cause t e sensible, inside, or quick-
sole to perform its functions of absorbing the
serous particles secreted or deposited therein by
the blood vessels. If the frog and its bars are
permitted to remain in such a state as to reach
the ground, wherever the sod hap ens to be
soft or yielding, the hollow part of the sole re-
ceives its due proportion of pressure laterally,
and the whole sole or surface of the foot is thus
ke tin health.

‘very veterinarian of sense will perceive the
necessity of keeping the heels apart, yet though
the immediate cause of their contracting is so
universally known and recognized, the injudi-
cious method—to call it by no harsher name—of
paring away the frog and sole, which prevents
the bars from ever touching the ground, is still
continued to an alarming extent.

So much for prevention. When disease comes
on, which may be accelerated by two other spe-
cies of mismanagement, another course is usually
followed not less injudicious than the first men-
tioned original cause of all the mischief.

Horses’ hoofs are of two distinct kinds or
shapes—the one being oval, hard, dark-colored,
and thick; the other round, palish, and thin in
the wall or crust of the hoof. The first has a
different kind of frog from the latter, this being
broad, thick and soft, while the oval hoof has a
frog that is long, acute and hard. The rags,
which hard work and frequent shoeing occasion
on the horny hoof of the round foot, produce
ragged frogs also, both being thus pared away
to make a fair bottom to receive the shoe-burn-
ing hot l—the whole support is so far reduced,
and the sensible sole coming much nearer the

ound, becomes tender and liable to those pain-

ul concussions which bring on lameness—prin-

cipally of the fore feet. Contraction of those
kinds of heels which belong to the cart-horse,
and pommice-foot, are the consequence.

The oval foot pertains to the saddle-horse, the
hunter, and bit of blood-kind, whose bold pro-
jecting frogs the farriers remove, and these being
compelled to perform long and painful journeys, '

 

ever starting or going off with the same leading
leg, and continuing the same throughout, lame-
ness is contracted in that foot, which none can
account for, nor even find out whereabouts it
may be seated. Applications of “the oyals”
(that egregious compound of folly, ignorance
and brutality) follow the first appearance of this
lameness, and are made alike to the shoulder,
the leg, and the sole, under the various pre-
tences of rheumatism, strain in the shoulder, and
founder. The real cause, however, is not once
thought of, much less removed, but, on the cono
trary, the evil is usually augmented by removing
the shoe and drawing the sole to the quick, per-
haps, in search of suppositious corns, surbatings,
etc.-—pretended remedies that were never known
to cure, but which might have been all prevented
by the simplest precautions that can be imagined.
These are:

I. Let the frog and sole acquire their natural
thickness.

2. Lead of? sometimes with one leg, some-
times with another.

3. Stuff the hollow of the hoofs (all four of
them) with cow dung or tar ointment, changing
it entirely once a day. In every case it is advis-
able that he be worked moderately, for it is use—
less to talk to the owners of horses about giving
the afflicted animal an entire holiday at grass.

FEET, BRITTLE.—In a large majority of
cases brittleness of hoof owes its origin to mis-
management of the feet, and especially to exces-
sive moisture, the use of swabs, the bath-tub,
etc. In all cases where the hoof is naturally
brittle the feet should be kept dry rather than
wet. If convenient, we would remove the
shoes, and rasp the wall moderately short and
round at its margin. Having cut the hair off
short around the entire coronet, a little iodide of
mercury ointment should be rubbed in. This
will cause a rapid growth of horn. The horse
should be kept during the day in a roomy box
having a layer of tan or sawdust spread over the
floor. When removed to his stall at night the
feet should be washed clean, and, after being
wiped dry, every part of the hoof should be
freely anointed with the following composition:
Take of oil of tar and beeswax of each 4 oz.,
honey and beef suet of each 2 02., whale oil 8
ounces; melt the beeswax and beef suet first,
then add the honey and other ingredients, stir-
‘ring the whole until nearly cold. All sousing of
the feet must be avoided.

FEE T, CONTRA C T ED.——Horses which
stand nearly or quite the year round, sometimes
from year to year in the stable, are apt to have
the feet get into a dry and fevered condition, the
hoof becomes dry, hard, and often contracted,
frequently also very brittle, and the horse some-
times suffers lameness in consequence. One of
the most effective means of remedying these
difficulties, where the horse cannot be spared to
be turned loose into pasture for quite a season,
is in the spring, when the ground is breaking up,
and the winter’s frost disappearing, and no last-
ing freeze is to be apprehended, to have all the
shoes taken off, and drive the horse daily about
business as usual without them. The roads re~
main muddy and soft, usually, so that a horse
may be thus driven daily for a period of 3 or _4
weeks, and a great improvement is effected in
the feet in every respect.

FEE T, To Put/m! Sum-éalling.—Clean

DOMESTIC ANIMALS—HORSES.

IO!

 

their hoofs well, then rub thoroughly with thick
soap suds before going out in the snow.

FIS T ULA .—Make a free opening in the low-
estpart of the sac, and inject it daily with a 10-
tion containing 2 drachms of chloride of zinc to
a pint of soft water.

FLIES 0NHORSES.—As a preventive of

horses being teased by flies, take 2 or 3 small
handfuls of walnut leaves, upon which pour 2
or 3 quarts of cold water; let it infuse for one
night, and pour the whole next morning into a
kettle, and let it boil for a )4 of an hour. When
it becomes cold it will be fit for use. N o more
is required than to moisten a sponge, and, be-
fore the horse goes out of the stable, let those
parts which are most irritable be smeared over
with the liquor—namely, between and upon the
ears, the neck, the flanks, etc. Not only the
lady or gentleman who rides out for pleasure
will derive pleasure from the walnut leaves thus
prepared, but the coachman, the wagoner, and
all others who use horses during the summer.
Or take smart weed and soak it in water, and in
the morning apply it to the horse, all over him,
with a sponge. A decoction of quassia chips,
made by boiling them in water, has also been
recommended.
r FRA C T URE.—Severe lameness is some-
times caused by the fracture of x or 2 bones on
the inside of the hoof—namely, the coflin of the
navicular bone. Inclosed as these bones are on
the inside of the hoof, and fenced in laterally by
the cartilages, it is often difficult to detect, and
we are obliged to depend on the general symp-
toms: the horse halts exceedingly, the foot is
hot, and the pain extreme. As these bones are
confined in the hoof no displacement can take
place, therefore no crepitu: can be detected. In
all cases of fracture of either bone, a careful ex-
amination will, however, reveal the existence of
a swelling at the back of the heels, immediately
above the frog, and more or less fulness over the
coronet of the foot. The treatment may be in-
dicated in a few words—rest, absolute rest, is
all-important. So long as the horse exhibits ev-
idence of acute pain whenever his weight is im-
posed on the lame limb, the quieter he is kept
the better. Warm baths, or cloths frequently
moistened with a mixture of equal parts of alco-
hol and water, are useful adjuncts. It may be
added that, in all cases of serious injury of the
stifle, t hip-joint, or the pelvis, the horse is
able to ring his heels “fair and square” upon
the floor. In fracture of either the navicular or
coffin bone, lameness sometimes continues long
after recovery. It may turn out permanent.

FOOT, CA NK’EIL’ OF.—This complaint is a
separation of the horn from the sensible part of
the foot, and the sprouting of the fungus mat-
ter—proud flesh—~instead of it, occupying a por-
tion or even the whole of the sole and frog. It
is the occasional consequence of bruise, punc-
ture, corn, quittor and thrush, and is exceedingly
difficult to cure. It is more frequently the con-
sequence of neglected thrush than of any other
disease of the foot, or rather it is thrush involv—
ing the frog, the bars and the sole, and making
the foot one mass of putrefaction.

The cure of canker is a painful and tedious
business. First, the extraneous fungus growth
is to be removed with either the knife or caustic.
Then the growth of fresh fungus must be dis-
couraged, by bringing the foot into that state in

 

which it will again secrete healthy horn, by a
slight daily application of the chloride of anti-,,
mony, and that not where the new horn is form-
ing, but on the surface which continues to be
diseased, and accompanied by as firm but equal
pressure as can be made; the careful avoidance
of the slightest degree of moisture, the horse
being exercised or worked in the mill, or wher-
ever the foot will not be exposed to wet, and
that exercise adopted as early as possible, and
even from the beginning, if the malady is con-
fined to the sole and frog. These means will
succeed, if the disease is capable of cure. .

FOOT, PUMMICE.—This is indicated by
the hoofs spreading more and more and losing
their shape. A properly constructed round (bar)
shoe is the only reliable remedy, for it can be
worn indefinitely without detriment to any part
of the foot. The main object of treatment is to
protect and preserve the deformed sole. The
shoe must be chambered so as not to touch the
sole, and no paring away of the latter must be
a1l1)owed. Keep the feet clean and dry as pos-
si le.

FOOT, SAND CRACK [Al—This, as its
name imports, is a crack or division of the hoof
from above downward, and into which sand and
dirt are too apt to insinuate themselves. It oc-
curs both in the fore and the hind feet. In the
fore feet it is usually found in the inner quarter,
but occasionally in the outer quarter, because
there is the principal stress or effort toward ex-
pansion in the foot, and the inner quarter is not
so strong as the outer. In the hind feet the
crack is almost invariably found in the front, be-
cause in the digging of the toe into the ground, ~
in the act of drawing, the principal stress is in
front. If the crack be superficial—does not
penetrate through the horn—it will cause no,
lameness, yet must not be neglected. If the
crack has extended to the sensible parts, and you
can see any fungus flesh, with a small drawing
knife remove the edges of the cracked horn that
press npon it. Touch the fungus with caustic,
dip a roll of tow or linen in tar, and bind it very
firmly over it. The whole foot is to be kept in
a bran poultice for a few days, or until the lame-
ness is removed. A shoe may then be put on,
so as not to press on the diseased part. The
pledget of tow may now be removed, the crack
filled with the composition, and the animal may
be then turned into some soft meadow.

FOUNDER, To Cum—Clean out the bot-
tom of the foot thoroughly, hold up firmly in a
horizontal position, and pour in a tablespoonful
of spirits of turpentine, if the cavity will hold,
that much; if not, pour in what it will hold
without running over; touch the turpentine with I
a red hot iron, (this,will set it on fire ;) hold the
hoof firmly in this position till it burns out, and
care must be taken that none runs on the hair of
the hoof, lest the skin be burned. If all the
feet are affected, burn turpentine in all of them.
Relief will speedily follow, and the animal will
be ready for service in a short time—2. The
seeds of the sunflower—a pint of the whole seed
—given in his feed, immediately the founder is
discovered—3. By standing the foundered horse
up to his belly in water.

GALLED BA CK—So soon as an abrasion
is discovered on the back of a horse, the animal
should be excused from duty for a few days; the
abraded parts should be dressed twice daily with

102

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

a portion of the tincture of aloes and myrrh.
This simple treatment will soon heal the parts.
Should there be no abrasion, but simply a swel-
ling attended with heat, pain and tenderness, the
parts should be frequently sponged with cold
water. Occasionally the skin undergoes the
process of hardening (induration.) This is a
condition of the parts known to the farriers of
old as “ sitfast,” and the treatment is as follows:
Procure 1 oz. of iodine, and smear the indurated
5 0t with a ortion of the same twice daily.
ome cases 0 galled back and shoulders are due
to negligence and abuse; yet many animals, ow-
ing to a peculiarity of constitution, will chafe, as
the saying is, in those parts which come in con-
tact with the collar, and neither human foresight
nor mechanical means can prevent the same.
GLANDERS.-—Glanders is a disease of very
malignant type, and consists in a discharge from
one or both nostrils of matter which, by transfer
or inoculation, will produce the disease in any
other animal. It is also characterized by tume-
faction of the submaxillary and lymphatic glands.
The lymphatic glands enlarge, 3 pustular erup-
tion appears upon the skin, followed by suppu-
rating, bloody, gangrenous ulceration in various
parts, giving rise to small tumors known as farcy
buds. These gradually suppurate, and secrete a
specific virus. The physiology and pathology of
it is this: It occurs under 2 forms—namely,
glanders and farcy. Many veterinarians have
considered these varieties to be distinct diseases,
but numerous experiments have demonstrated
that they have their origin in the common ani-
mal poison. It appears, however, that there are
2 grades or varieties of this disease. Thus, if
glanders be defined to be a disorder with a run-
ning of matter from the nose, enlargement and
induration of the glands, farcy consists in the
formation of a number of tumors on different
parts of the body, which soften and ulcerate.
t may be shortly stated that, in the primary
stage of glanders, the nasal passages especially
suffer, while in farcy it is the lymphatic system
which is first affected. The catalogue of reme-
dies proposed is endless. Sulphate of copper,
sulphate of iron, cantharides, arsenic, and re-
cently sulphate of soda and carbonic acid, have
been used, but without benefit, and to the disap-
pointment of the hopes which had been enter-
tained of them. The disease is pronounced in-
curable by standard authorities, and an animal
having it should be killed, rather than experi-
mented on.
GRA VEL—Steep a % lb. of hops m a quart
of water, and give it as hot as the horse can stand

It.

GREASE—This is a white, offensive dis-

charge from the skin of the heels. Wash the

art well with warm soap-suds twice a day, and
if the swelling be great apply a poultice to it;
when the sores are cleansed touch them with a
rag or feather dipped in a solution of chloride of
zinc, I grain to the ounce of water.

HAIR, LOSS 0F.-—To promote the growth
of hair, where the skin has been deadened by
bruises or rubbing, take of quinine 8 grs., finely
powdered galls, IO grs., powdered capsicum 5
grs., oil of almonds and pure lard of each x 02.,
oil of lavender 20 drops; mix thoroughly, and
apply a small quantity to the denuded parts 2 or
3 times aweek. Where there is falling out of
the hair of the mane and tail, take glycer-

-vcnient.

 

inc 2 oz., sulphur 1 oz., acetate of lead 2 drs.,
water 8 02. To be well mixed, and applied by
means of a s onge.

HA 1. T ER—PULLING.-A new way to pre-
vent horses pulling at the halter, _is to put a very
small rope under the horse’s tail, bringing the
ends forward, crossing them on the back, and
tying them on the breast. Put the halter strap
through the ring, and tie to the rope in front of
the breast. When the horse pulls, he will, of
course, find himself in rather an uncomfortable
pqsition, and discontinue the effort to free him-

se .

HARNESS, Care ofl—First take the harness
apart, having each strap and piece by itself, and
then wash it in warm soap-suds. When it has
been cleaned, black every part with the follow-
ing dye: 1 oz. extract of logwood, 12 grs. of
bichromate of potash, both pounded fine; put it
into 2 quarts of boiling rain water, and stir until
all is dissolved. When cool it may be used.
You can bottle and keep for future use if you
wish. It may be applied with a shoe-brush, or
anything else convenient. When the dye has
struck in, you may oil each part with neat’s-foot
oil, applied with a paint-brush, or anything con-
For second oiling use % castor oil and
double that quantity of neat’s-foot oil, mixed.
A few hours after wipe clean with a woolen
cloth, which gives the harness a glossy appear-
ance. The preparation will not injure the leather
or stitching, makes it soft and pliable, and obvi-
ates the necessity of oiling as often as is neces-
sary by the ordinary method.

HEA VES.—This disease is indicated by a
short, dull, spasmodic cough, and a double-jerk-
ing movement at the flank during expiration.
If a horse suffering from this disease is allowed
to distend his stomach at his pleasure, with dry
food entirely, and then to drink cold water, as
much as he can hold, he is nearly worthless.
But if his food be moistened, and he be allowed
to drink a moderate quantity only at a time, the
disease is much less troublesome. To cure this
complaint, feed no hay to the horse for 36 or 48
hours, and give only a pailful of water at a time.
Then throw an armful of well cured smart weed
before him, and let him eat all he will. In all
cases where the cells of the lungs are not broken
down, great relief, if not a perfect cure, will fol-
low. Another remedy is sunflower seed, feeding
I or 2 quarts of the seed daily.

HIDE—BOUND.—To recruit a hide-bound
horse, give nitrate potassia (or saltpetre) 4 oz.,
crude antimony I 02., sulphur 3 oz. Nitrate of
potassia and antimony should be finely pulver.
ized, then add the sulphur, and mix the whole
well together. Dose—A tablespoonful of this
mixture in a bran mash daily.

HO0F—BOUND——-Cut down several lines
from the coronet to the toe all around the hoof,
and fill the cuts with tallow and soap mixed; take
off the shoes, and (if you can spare him) turn the
animal into a wet meadow, where his feet will be
kept moist. Never remove the sole nor burn the
lines down, as this increases instead of diminish-
ing the evil.

HOOF—QUARTER, CRA CXED.—Many
plans have been devised by which to heal a quar-
ter crack—such as scoring with a knife, blister-
ing, cutting with a sharp, hot iron, riveting and
the like, all which, in many cases. have proved a
failure. If the following directions are adopted,

DOMESTIC ANIMALS—HORSES.

m3

 

the fore feet will be sound in 3 months. Above
the crack, and next to the hair, cut with our
knife an incision % inch long, crosswise o the
crack, and about % inch deep. Now from the
incision draw aline :4 inch each side, parallel
with the crack, down to the shoe; then with your
knife follow those lines, and cut through the
enamel or crust of the foot. Now there is a
piece of the crust to be taken out. This is done
by loosening the top of the piece next to the
hair with your knife, then with your forceps take
hold of the piece and pull it off; that leaves a
space of % inch of the crust taken out from the
hair down to the shoe. Fill the cavity with tar,
and lace on a soft piece of leather to keep the
tar in its place.

Keep the animal quiet for 3 or 4 daysuand he
is ready to drive, but it is best not to use him
until the foot is perfectly sound. Shoe with a
bar shoe, leaving some spring to the heel, so it
will not bear hard upon the weak quarter, and in
3 months you will have a sound foot.

HORSES, How to judge and Select—Color.
Light sorrel or chestnut with feet, legs, and face
white, are marks of kindness. A deep bay, with
no white hair, will be a horse ot great bottom,
but a fool, especially if his face is a little dished.
They are always trick and unsafe. A black
horse cannot stand the eat, nor a white one the
cold. The more white about the head the great-
er his docility and gentleness. Eye.——If broad
and full between the eyes, he may be depended
on as a horse for being trained to anything.
Earn—Intelligent animals prick up their ears
when spoken to; vicious ones throw their ears
back. Face and Neaé.—Dish-faced horses must
always be avoided, and a broad forehead, high
between the ears, indicates a very vicious dispo-
sition; while a long, thin neck indicates a good
disposition; contrawise, if short and thick; the
nostrils of a good horse should be large.

HORSE, Point: of a Good—He should be
about 15% hands high; the head light and clean
made; wide between the nostrils, and the nos-
trils themselves large, transparent and open;
broad in the forehead; eyes prominent, clear and
sparkling; ears small and neatly set on; neck
rather short, and well set up; large arm or
shoulder, well thrown back, and high; withers
arched and high; legs fine, flat, thin and small-
boned; body round and rather light, though suf-
ficiently large to afford substance when it is need-
ed; full chest, affording play for the lungs; back
short, with the hind-quarters set on rather ob-
liquely. Any one possessing a horse of this pre-
cise make and appearance, and weighing I 100 or

. 1200 lbs., may rest assured he has a horse of all
‘work, and a bargain well worth getting hold

0 .

HORSE, (Cart,) Point: of a Good .——A well—
shaped head, rather large ; a long, clean ear, full
eye, neck rather long, but not too much arched;
strong withers, lying well forward to catch the
collar at the proper angle for draught, and broad
shoulders well spread into the back; back very
straight, ribs long and well rounded, hind legs
bent at the hock, forlegs forward, hind-quarters
somewhat round, but not sufficiently so to make
them look short; the mane and tail of strong,
but not coarse hair, and with a fetlock about 2
inches long; broad knees, long hocks, short
shanks, and hard ankles or fetlock joints, and
mud hoofs, well opened behind; and the near-

 

er you can approach this description, the nearer
the horse will be to perfection.

HORSES, AGE 01“, By Teeth—A horse
has 40 teeth—24 double teeth, or grinders, 4
tushes, or single file teeth, and 12 front teeth,
called gatherers. As a general thing, mares
have no tushes. Between 2 and 3 years old, the
colt sheds his 4 middle teeth—2 above and 2 be-
low. After 3 years old 2 other teeth are shed,
I on each side of those formerly changed; he
now has 3 colt’s teeth and 8 horse’s teeth; when
4 years of age he cuts 4 new teeth. At 5 years
of age the horse sheds his remaining colt’s teeth,
4 in number, when his tushes appear. At 6
years of age his tushes are up, appearing white,
small and sharp, while a small circle of young
growing teeth is observable. The mouth is now
complete. At 8 years of age the teeth have
filled up, the horse is aged, and his mouth is
said to be full. By Eyelid.—After a horse is 9
years old, a wrinkle comes on the eyelid, at the
upper corner of the lower lid, and every year
thereafter he has I well—defined wrinkle for each
year over 9. If, for instance, a horse has 3 of
these wrinkles, he is 12; if 4, he is 13. Add
the number of wrinkles to 9, and you will inva-
riably judge correctly of a horse’s age.

HORSE’S EYES, To Text a.—To test a
horse’s eyes, look at the eye carefully, when the
horse is in rather a dark stable. Note the shape
and size of the pupil carefully, carry this in your
mind while you turn the horse about to a strong
light. If the pupil contracts and appears much
smaller than in the first instance, you may infer
that the horse has a good strong eye ; but if the
pupil remains nearly of the same size in both
cases, his eyes are weak, and you had better
have nothing to do with him.

HORSES, WHEN UNSOUND.—Any of
the following defects constitute unsoundness ina
horse:

Lameness of all kinds and degrees.
of any of the internal organs.
kind, as long as it exists. Colds or catarrhs,
while they last. Roaring, broken wind, thick
wind, grease, mange, farcy and glanders; me-
grims or staggers, founder, convex feet, con-
tracted feet, spavins and ringbones, enlargement
of the sinews or ligaments, cataracts and other
defects of the eyes, impairing sight.

The f0110wing may or may not occasion un-
soundness, according to the state or degree in
which they exist: Corns, splints, thrushes, bog-
spavins, through pins, wind-galls, crib-biting.
Curbs are unsoundness unless the horse has
worked with them for some months without in-
convenience.

Cutting, particularly speedy cutting, consti-
tutes unsoundness when it cannot be remedied
by care and skill. Quidding, when a confirmed
habit, injures the soundness of a horse. ,

Defects, called blemishes, are: Scars from
broken knees; capped hocks, splints, bog-spav-
ins, and through pins ; loss of hair from blisters
or scars, enlargements from blows or cutting, ‘
and also specks or streaks on the corner of the
eye.

Vices are: Restiveness, shying, bolting, run-
ning away, kicking, rearing, weaving, or moving
the head from side to side, stringhalt, quidding,
slipping the halter.

ORSES, Care of—The man having the care
of horses should be the embodiment of patience.

Diseases .
Cough of every

104 DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

His temper should always be under perfect con-
trol. He should never inflict any unnecessary
pain, for it is only by the law of kindness that a

orse can be trained and managed. No man
ever yet struck a horse, but that he made the
horse the worse for it. Patience and kindness
will accomplish in every instance what whipping
will fail to do. Horses having a vicious dispo-
sition are invariably made so from cruel treat-
ment.

Horses are designed to work, and daily labor
for them is as much a necessity to their existence
as to that of man’s. It is not the hard drawing
and ponderous loads that wear out horses, and
make them poor, baulky and worthless; but it
is the hard driving, the worry by rough and in-
human drivers, that uses up more horse flesh,
fat and muscle than all the labor a team per-
forms. Another great reason why there are so
few really sound animals, is because of their be-
ing put to work so soon. Horses are not devel-
oped until they are 5, 6 or 7 years old, and they
should do very little work until they reach that
period.

When a horse is worked hard its food should
chiefly be oats ; if not worked hard, its food
should chiefly be hay ; because oats supply more
nourishment and flesh-making material than any
other kind of food; hay not so much.

HORSES, Food jinn—Horses are usually fed
thrice daily—namely, in the morning, at mid-day
and at night. It is not possible to state the ex-
act quantity of food a horse requires to keep him
in good working condition. In all cases the
horse himself tells whether he is getting too
much or too little. The best feed for ordinary
road horses is hay and oats. 10 lbs. of hay is a
fair allowance of good hay, and to fast-working
horses from 15, 20, or 25 lbs. of oats; one-third
of the hay may be given during the day, the bal-
ance at night. Horses differ so much in the
quantity of hay they may eat without inconve-
nience—in fact, they vary so much in size, age,
breeding, temper, condition, and labor they are
called upon to perform, that it is impossible to
fix upon any specific rules for feeding them.

Oats should be bruised for an old horse, but
not for a young one, because the former, through
age and defective teeth, cannot chew them prop-
erly; the young horse can do so, and they are
thus properly mixed with the saliva and turned
into wholesome nutriment. Carrots given occa-
sionally will give a fine, silky appearance to the
coat, and experiments have shown that the best
way to feed carrots is to give them with oats.
If you are in the habit of feeding 4 quarts of oats
to a mess, give 2 of oats and 2 of sliced carrots,
and the result will be more satisfactory than if
each were fed separately. Youatt writes of the
carrot: “ This root is held in much esteem.
There is none better, nor perhaps so good; when
first given it is slightly diuretic and laxative, but
as the horse becomes accustomed to it these ef-
fects cease to be produced. They improve the
state of the skin. They form a good substitute
for grass, and an excellent alterative for horses
out of condition. To sick and idle horses they
render grain unnecessary. They are beneficial
in all chronic diseases connected with breathing,
and have a marked influence upon chronic cough
and broken wind. They are serviceable in dis-
eases of the skin, and, in combination with cats,
they restore a worn horse more than oats alone.

 

It is also advantageous to chop hay fed to a
horse, and to sprinkle the hay with water that
has salt dissolved in it—a teaspoonful of salt toa
bucket of water is sufficient. Rack-feeding is
wasteful. The better plan is to feed with hay
(chopped) from a manger, because the food is
not then thrown about, and is more easy to chew,
and digest.

. Vetches and cut grass should always be given
in the spring to horses that can not be turned
out into the fields, because they are very cool and
refreshing, and almost medicinal in their effects;
but they must be supplied in moderation, as they

are liable to ferment in the stomach, if given

largely.

As often as once a week a change of food
should be made—one feed of cut hay and meal,
or cut hay with shorts will do. Musty hay on
no account should be fed to horses. Let the
food he the best of its kind, for in the end it is
the cheapest.

_ HORSES, Water jinx—Water is usually
given 3 times a day; but in summer, when the
horse sweats much, he should have water 4 or 5
times; under ordinary circumstances, 2 rules
will guide the attendant. The first is, never to
let the horse get very thirsty; the second, to
give him water so often and in such quantity
that he will not care to take any within an hour
of going to fast work. The quantity of water
which a horse will drink in 24 hours is uncer-
tain ; it varies so much that I will drink uite
as much as other 2 or 3. It is influenced

of services ; the demand for water also increases
with the perspiration. Horses at fast work, and
kept in hot stables, need a large allowance,
which must be still larger in hot weather; horses
of slow work may be permitted to take what
quantity they please; but to those of fast work
occasional restriction is necessary. Restriction
is always necessary before fast work. A few
quarts given an hour before going to work ought
to suffice. Water should always be given before
rather than after grain. Water your horses from
a pond or stream rather than from a spring or
well, because the latter is generally hard and
cold, while the former is soft and comparatively
warm. The horse prefers soft, muddy water to
hard water, though ever so clear. .

HORSE-FEEDING ON THE ROAD.—
Many persons, in traveling, feed their horses too
much and too often, continually stufling them,
and not allowing them time to rest and digest
their food; of course they suffer from over-full-
ness and carrying unnecessary weight. Horses
should be well fed in the evening, and must not
be stuffed too full in the morning, and the trav-
eling should be moderate on starting when the
horse has a full stomach. If a horse starts in
good condition, he can go 20 or 25 miles without
feeding.

HORSES, CLEANING.—When brought in
from work, warm with exertion, the horse must
be rubbed down and then blanketed; but we
would not blanket a horse in a good stable, as a
general rule, except in extremely cold weather.
A sharp-toothed curry-comb is the dread of a
fine-skinned horse, and the brush and straw wisp
answer the same purpose much better, if used as
frequently as they should be. Mud should not
be allowed to dry on the legs of a horse; it is
the cause of half the swelled legs, scratches.

by'
the food, the work, the weather, and the number,

. . nasmwem

DOMESTIC ANIMALS—HORSES.

1'05

 

and other affections of the feet with which they
are afflicted.

HORSES, Stable: fins—The floor of the sta~
ble should be level, or nearly so. When it is
inclined it causes the horse to hang back, because
the incline causes his loins and hind parts to
ache intolerably, and he hangs back in order, if
possible, to get his hind legs beyond the gutter,
thus diminishing, by many degrees, his standing
up hill. The best bedding is that of straw, fine
shavings from a planing mill, or sawdust—pine
sawdust being best, and oak sawdust the worst.
They should be allowed to stand on the naked
floor as little as possible. " If I were asked,”
said a noted stockraiser, “to account for my
horses‘ legs and feet being in better order than
those of my neighbor, I should attribute it to
the four following circumstances : First, they are
all shod with a few nails, so placed in the shoe
as to permit the foot to expand every time they
move. Second, that they all live in boxes, in-
stead of stalls, and can move whenever they
please. Third, they spend 2 hours daily in
walking exercise, when they are not at work.
Fourth, that I have not a head-stall or trace-chain
in my stable. These four circumstances com-

rehend the whole mystery of keeping horses’
liegs fine, and their feet in sound working condi-
tion up to old age.

HORSE S TABLES, T o Dma’orz'zt.—Saw-
dust, wetted with sulphuric acid, diluted with 40

arts of water, and distributed about horse sta-
iiles, will, it is said, remove the disagreeable am-
moniacal smell, the sulphuric acid combining
with the ammonia to form a salt. Chloride of
lime slowly evolves chlorine, which will do the
same thing, but then the chlorine smells worse
than the ammonia. Sulphuric acid, on the con-
trary, is perfectly inodorous. The mixture must
be kept in shallow earthenware vessels. The
sulphuric acid used alone, either diluted or
strong, would absorb more or less of the ammo-
nia, but there would be danger of spilling it
about, and causing serious damage; and, beside
this, the sawdust offers a large surface to the
floatin gas.

HORSES, BLANKETING.—In reference
to blanketing horses in winter, it is doubtless
true that blanketing keeps a horse’s coat smooth-
er in winter, and hence fine carriage horses and
saddle horses will continue to be blanketed.
But where horses are kept more for service than
for show, we think they had better dispense with
the blanket. Keeping them constantly covered
makes them tender and liable to take cold. It
is better to give them a warm s‘able, and plenty
of straw for bedding, and goon food. When
they are to stand for any length of time out of
doors in a cold winter’s day, they should have
blankets. And so when they come in from work
steaming hot, they should be allowed to stand a
short time until they have partially cooled off;
then the blankets should be put on for an hour.
Be careful and not delay putting on the blanket
until they have become chilled.

HORSES, POOR, Haw ta FA TTEM—
Many good horses devour large quantities of hay
and grain, and still continue thin and poor. The
food eaten is not properly assimilated. If the
usual feed has been unground grain and hay,
nothing but a change will effect any desirable al-
teration in the appearance of the animal. In
use oil meal cannot be obtained readily, mingle

 

a bushel of flaxseed with a bushel of barley, l
of cats, and another bushel of Indian corn, and
let it be ground into fine meal. This will be a
fair proportion for all his feed. Or the meal or
barley, oats and corn, in equal quantities, may at
first be procured, and X of oil cake mingled
with it when the meal is sprinkled on cut feed.
Feed 2 or 3 quarts of the mixture 3 times daily
with a peck of cut hay and straw. If the horse
will eat that amount greedily, let the quantity be
gradually increased, until he will eat 4, 5 or 6
quarts at every feeding, 3 times a day. So long
as the animal will eat this allowance, the quan-
tity may be increased a little every day. «But al-
ways avoid the practice of allowing the horse to
stand at a rack well filled with hay. In order
to fatten a horse that has run down in flesh, the
groom should be very particular to feed the ani-
mal no more than he will eat up clean and lick
his manger for more. Follow the above sugges‘
tions and the result will be satisfactory.

INTERFERING.-—To prevent interfering
in a horse who is turned out in the front feet,
the shoe should be applied to fit closely on the
inside, and the nails applied round the toe and to
the outside. In some instances a small piece of
leather placed betwixt the sole and the shoe, and
allowed to project outwards, has a very good ef-
fect in preventing interfering.

ITCH—To cure a horse affected with itch,
first reduce his daily allowance of food, putting
him on a low diet, and then give him a teaspoon-
ful of a mixture of equal parts of sulphur and
antimony, and at the end of a week or 10 days
the sores will have disappeared, and the horse
will be covered with a fine coat of new hair.

KIDNE YS, Inflammation fi—(Nep/zritz'r.)
——Symptoms: Gradual loss of flesh, pain across
the back, impaired action of the hind extremi-
ties, and the frequent passing of urine, which is
very highly colored. In treating this affection,
the horse should be allowed perfect rest, and he
should also have a generous diet of easily di-
gested food, and plenty of mucilaginous drinks.
The loins may be rubbed every third or fourth
day with mustard, and I drachm of tartar emetic
given every night. This medicine can be con-
veniently administered mixed with the food.

KICKING [N STALL—To prevent your
horse from kicking in the stall, fasten a short
trace-chain, about 2 feet long, by a strap to each
hind foot. A better way is to have the stalls
made wide enough so that the horse can turn in
them easily. Close them with a door or bars,
and turn'the animal loose. After a while he
will forget the habit, and stand tied without fur-
ther trouble.

KNEE-PAN; DISPLA CED.-—Feed the
horse well on oats, barley and sound hay; give
him a drachm of powdered phosphate of iron
daily in his food; keep in a stall with a perfectly
smooth and level floor, and not less than 5% or
6 feet wide; apply a shoe with a bar welded to
the toe, projecting 2 or 3 inches, and then let it
be turned up; rub the joint with an ointment
made of I drachm of powdered cantharides to
% an 02. of lard, repeating the application next
day if it has not blistered. When a blister rises,
wash it off with soap and warm water, and then
anoint the part daily with lard, until the scab and
other effects have passed off, when another blis-
ter may be applied.

KNEE-SPRUNG.-—The best remedy for

106

DICTIONARY OF EVERY—DA Y WANTS.

 

knee-sprung or contracted tendons is a winter’s
run in a straw yard, or a summer’s run at grass.

LAMP/1 S.—This consists in a swelling of the
first bar of the upper palate. It is cured by rub-
bing the swelling 3 or 3 times a day with% an
ounce of alum and the same quantity of ouble
refined sugar mixed with a little honey.

LEGS, Inflammation and Swelling of:—
Rest, and the application of an active blister to
the swollen parts, will effect a cure. No better
blister can be used than the following: Take
resin and black pitch each 4 arts, beeswax 3
parts, sweet oil It parts, Spanish flies 6 parts,
euphorbium 2 parts. Melt the resin, pitch and
wax first, then add the oil, and when thoroughly
mixed remove from the fire; lastly, add very
slowly the powdered flies and euphorbium. Be-
fore the blister is applied the hair should be cut
close off, and the skin, if scurfy, washed with
Castile soa and warm water, after which it must
be thoroug 1y dried, and the blistering ointment
rubbed in for 10 minutes. After applying the
blister, the horse’s head should be tied up to pre-
vent his biting the part, or rubbing it with his
nose. At the expiration of 2 or 3 days most
horses may be set at liberty. In about a week
rub sweet oil over the blistered part.

LEGS, BROKEIV, To Cum—Instead of
summarily shooting the horse, in the greater
number of fractures it is only necessary to par-
tially sling the horse by means of a broad piece
of sail or other strong cloth, placed under the
animal’s belly, furnished with 2 breechings and
2 breast-girths, and, by means of ropes and pul-
leys attached to a cross beam above, he is ele-
vated or lowered, as may be required. By the
adoption of this plan every facility is allowed for
the satisfactory treatment of the fractures.

LINIMENT, BLISTERING.-—See “ Legs,
Inflammation and Swelling of.”

LINIAIEN T fbr tfie Called Back: of Homer.
-—-White lead moistened with milk. When milk
is not to be procured oil may be substituted. 1
or 2 oz. mixed at a time will be sufficient for

a month.

LINIAIEN T for Bruiser, Spraim, etc..—
Take I pint of alcohol, 4 oz. of Castile soap, %
oz. of gum camphor, % oz. of sal ammoniac.
When these are dissolved, add I oz. of lauda-
num, 1 oz. origanum, % oz. oil of sassafras, and
2 oz. spirits of hartshorn. Bathe freely.

LIZVIMENT, NERVE AND BONE.—
Take beef’s gall I qt., alcohol I pt., volatile lin—
iment I 1b., spirits of turpentine I 1b., oil of ori~
ganum 4 oz., aqua ammonia4oz., tincture of
Cayenne % pt., oil of amber 3 oz., tincture of
Spanish flies 6 oz. ix.

1 MOON E YE.——Moon Eye is a term applied
to remittent inflammation of the eyes of the
horse. From the remittent or periodical appear-
ance of this disease, it has been supposed that
it recurred monthly, or with special changes of
the moon—hence the name Moon Eye and Moon
Blinding. It is constitutional, hereditary dis-
ease, localizing itself in the eyes. This malady
attacks alike the young and the aged, the fat and
the lean, while the high bred and the mongrel,
the lazy and the nervous, are all equally prone to
its baleful influence. Certain kinds of eye—es-
pecially the small sunken eye—seem disposed to
contract the disease. Of all the influences tend-
ing to the development of Moon Eye, none is
more clearly established than the hereditary pre-

 

disposition. During its prevalence the animal is
almost entirely useless.

MOUTH, SURE—Symptoms: The mouth
runs water, the horse ends, or throws hay out of
his mouth. The cause of this disease is often
from frosted bits being put into their mouths, or
by eating poisonous weeds. To cure, take of
borax 3 drachms, 2 drachms of sugar of lead, %
ounce of alum, 1 pint of vinegar, I pint of sage
tea. Shake all well together, and wash the ani-
mal’s mouth out every morning. Give him no
hay for 12 days.

7" 117E M ULE.—There seems to be but little
doubt that mules are more economical than horses
for farm purposes. The climate, soil, and mode
of carrying on farming operations in the prairie
regions of the West are all admirably suited to
the working of horses. One combination of
circumstances renders oxen the favorite farm
team of New England; another causes mules to
be employed in the South; and still another
makes horses the most desired farm team in the
Northwest. If we take into consideration their
beauty of form and carriage, speed and docility,
as well as strength, no animal employed in the
service of man can compare with the horse. But
for many purposes where elegance and speed are
of little consequence, the horse is not an eco.
nomical animal to use. The cost of keeping him
is greater than is the case with the mule; his li-
ability to disease is very much greater, and his
years of available labor are less. The expense
of shoeing mules is much less than that of shoe-
ing horses, on account of the smallness of their
feet, the hardness of the hoof, and its freedom
from disease.

MULE, Splint era—To remove these bony
formations, the treatment consists in repeated
blistering. Having first cut the hair short, rub
a little of the following ointment into the skin,
covering the splint, every night, until a free wa-
tery discharge is produced from the surface:
Take of biniodide of mercury 2 drachms, lard I
oz. Mix. If, after an interval of a fortnight,
the splint does not appear much reduced in size,
the ointment should be re-applied and repeated
at similar intervals.

NA SAL GLEE T —or running at the nose—
can be cured by taking % a lb. of rosin, % a lb.
of blue vitriol, and 4 oz. of ginger, grinding them
all fine, and giving the horse a spoonful 2 or 3
times a day.

NA V] C ULAR DISEASE.—Symptoms: To
prevent tension of the injured parts the horse
points his foot. Pointing is a so observed in
corns and in bruises and injuries of the heel, but
long-continued pointing is to be dreaded as the
harbinger of incurable lameness. Lameness at
first is often slight, and disappears after y; an
hour’s work, from increased secretion of syndia.
In lifting his foot the horse bends his knee less
than natural, and—especially when first brought
out—walks on his toe; the toe of the shoe
wears rapidly, while the heel exhibits very slight
wear. The horse steps or moves in a stilty sort
of way. In from 4 to 8 weeks the hoof becomes
deeper, narrower at the heels; the sole becomes
very concave, and the foot appears no wrder at
the sole than at the coronet. When the foot, and
especially the elastic and insensible frog, ceases
to bear weight, it becomes absorbed, the quar-
ters consequently contract, and the sole ascends.
This is most among horses used on hard roads

DOMESTIC ANIMALS—HORSES. 107

and paved streets ; rapidity of action is the cause
in a great many instances. Treatment. —In such
cases the practice of paring the quarters almost
to the quick is adopted. The toe is shortened,
and the feet are envelo ed in poultices for 10
days, renewing the pou tice twice a day. The
horse should be fed on bran and oats scalded,
with a moderate allowance of hay. Give a dose
of opening medicine at the end of [0 days; blis-
ter the coronet, and keep the hoof moist with
wet cloths. The sole may now be thinned, and
the horse kept standing on wet sawdust, and a
second blister may be at the same time applied.
When the horse is shod for work a leather sole
should be applied, and the space between the
foot and sole stuffed with tar and tow. Turning
the horse into a damp pasture for 6 weeks will
be attended with benefit. In a great many in-
stances this disease is incurable.

OIZVTMENT, HOOK—Take % a 1b. of
lard and 4 oz. of rosin. Heat them over a slow
fire until melted; take the pot off the fire, add I
oz. of pulverized verdigris; stir well to prevent
it from running over. When partially cool add
2 oz. of turpentine. Apply it from the hair
down I inch. Work the horse all the time.

OINTMENT, SLOAN’S.—Rosin 4 oz.,
beeswax 4 oz., lard 8 oz., honey 2 oz. Melt
these articles slowly, gently bringing to a boil;
and, as it begins to boil, remove from the fire
and slowly add a little less than a pint of spirits
of turpentine, stirring all the time this is being
added, and stir until cool.

OVER-REA CHIN G.——Make the shoe its
natural length, or a trifle longer—with the calk
of the forward shoes high and the heel calk low.
The hoof will then stand further forward, and be
more removed from the stride of the hind foot,
which, being shod with a low toe calk and high
heel calk, will strike the ground before it reaches
the fore foot. An interfering horse generally
strikes with the inside of the hoof, about 2 inches
from the toe; therefore make the shoe straighter
on the inside, and rasp the hoof accordingly.

PALS Y.—An attack of this kind is frequently
followed by wasting of the affected muscles—-
they lose their rounded form, and present a more
or less withered aspect. The most common
causes of this disease are idleness and plethora.
It may result from accidental violence, as blows
or falls. T reatment—First, apply a blister over
the loins. Then give the mare one of the fol-
lowing pills every morning for 8 or 10 days:
Take gentian and ginger of each 2 drachms, lin-
seed meal 4 drachms, strychnine 5 grains. Mix
with water for I pill. The diet should be light,
and the mare kept quiet in the stable, or—better
——a box stall.

PH YSI C BA LL.—-Barbadoes aloes 4, 5 or 6
drs., (according to the size and strength of the
horse,) tartrate of potassia 1 dr., of ginger and
Castile soap of each 2 drs., anise or peppermint
20 drops ; pulverize, and make all into I ball
with thick gum solution. Before giving a horse
physio, he should be prepared for it by feeding
scalded bran, in place of oats, for 2 days at the
least, giving also water which has the chill taken
off, and continue this feed and drink during its
operation. If it should not operate in 48 hours,
repeat % the dose.

PNE UMONIA, A CUTE.—Symptomr.—
They are first taken with a dry, de ressed cough,
loss of appetite, but thirsty; p e feeble, but

 

frequently the extremities are cold—sometimes
when first taken, at others they retain their nat-
ural heat until the disease assumes its worst ap-
pearance, and then the legs become cold. Res-
piration is very active and laborious ; the animal
pants all the time, stands with fore legs widely
separated, never lies down, and is loth to move.
Some discharge copiously from both nostrils a
thick, slimy matter, sometimes mixed with blood
—in that case the whole body is excessively hot,
and the extremities also, but other symptoms the
same. The treatment in the early stage of this
disease should be : I. An abundant supply of
cool, fresh air. 2. Abstinence from grain or
corn. 3. Extra clothing and warm bandages to
the legs. In all cases it is desirable that the pa-
tient should at once be removed to an airy, loose
box. If these simple remedies do not bring
about a subsidence of the attack within a short
time, recourse must be had to medical treat-
ment.

POLL E VIL.—If there is only swelling and
slight tenderness, but without any fluctuation or
pressure from contained matter, give the horse
as a laxative 5 drs. of Barbadoes aloes, and rub
the poll actively with an ointment made by mix-
ing equal parts of mercurial and iodine oint-
ments. Repeat this application, if necessary, to
induce some blistering action. If matter is al-
ready formed, as indicated by the fluctuation or
pressure, the swelling should be at once opened
so as to let it escape. An opening should then
be made from the very lowest point of the sac,
so that the matter may flow freely as soon as
formed. If obstinate, it may be injected sev-
eral times a week with a lotion containing % a
dr. of chloride of zinc to a pint of water.

POLL EVIL (Narwzgz'an Cure.)—-Cover the
head and neck with 2 or 3 blankets ; have a pan
or kettle of the best warm cider vinegar; then
hold it under the blankets; steam the parts by
putting hot stones, brick or iron into the vinegar,
and continue the operation until the horse per-
spires freely; do this for 3 mornings, and skip
3, until 9 steamings have been accomplished.

POLL EVIL and FISTULA.—Common
potash % oz., extract of belladonna % dr., gum
Arabic % oz. Dissolve the gum in as little wa-
ter as practicable; then, having pulverized the
potash, unless it is moist, mix the gum water
with it and it will soon dissolve ; then mix in the
extract and it is ready to use ; it can be used
without the belladonna, but it is more painful
without it, and does not have quite as good an
effect. The best plan to get this into the pipes
is by means of a small syringe, after having
cleansed the sore with soap-suds ; repeat once in
2 days, until all the callous pipes and hard fibrous
base around the poll evil or fistula is completely
destroyed.

P0 WDERS, CONDITION—2 oz. resin, 2
oz. saltpetre, 2 oz. black antimony, 2 oz. sul-
phur, 2 oz. saleratus, 2 oz. ginger, I oz. cop-
peras. I tablespoonful to a dose once a day for
for 3 days; then skip 2 or 3 days, and give again
until you have given in this way 9 doses, or even
more if you like. It should be given in the
spring and fall, or at any time when the animal
is not doing well.

P0 WDERS, CLEANSING.—Take of gin.
ger 2 oz., 4 oz. fenugreek, I oz. black antimony,
and 2 oz. rhubarb. Grind all fine, mix it well,
and it is fit for use. Give a large spoonful every

1'08

morning and night. It gives a good appetite,
and fine coat and life to the animal;
. QUI T TOR—The treatment of this disease is
as follows : After the shoe has been removed,
thin the sole until it will yield to the pressure of
the thumb; then cut the under parts of the wall
in an oblique direction from the heel to the ante-
rior part, immediately under the seat of com-
plaint, and only as far as it extends, and rasp the
side of the wall thin enough to give way to the
pressure of the over-distended parts, and put on
a bar-shoe rather elevated from the frog. As-
certain with a probe the direction of the sinuses,
and introduce into them a saturated solution of
sulphate of zinc, by means of a small syringe.
Place over this dressing the common poultice, or
the turpentine ointment, and renew the applica-
tion every 24 hours. 3 or 4 such applications
will complete a cure. It is recommended that
when the probe is introduced, in order to ascer-
tain the progress of cure, that it be gently and
carefully used, otherwise it may break down the
new-formed lymph.

HORSE, flow to Ride a.—-—The body of the
rider is divided into 3 parts, of which 2 are mov-
able and x immovable; I of the first consists of

all the upper part of the body down to the waist, ,

the other of the lower part of the legs, from the
knee down. The immovable portion is from the
waist to the knees. The rider should sit per-
fectly square on the middle of the saddle, the
upper part of the body presenting a free and un-
constrained appearance, the chest not very much
thrown forward, the ribs resting freely on the
hips, the waist and loins not stiffened, and thus
not exposed to tension or effort from the motions
of the horse; the upper part of the body should
lean slightly to the rear, rather than forward;
the thighs, inclining a little forward, lie flat and
firmly on the saddle, covering the surcingle, of
which only a small part behind the knee should
be seen ; the lower part of the leg, hanging
vertically from the knees, touches the horse, but
without the slightest pressure ; the toes are
pointed up without constraint, and on the same
‘ne with the knees, for if the toes are turned
outward it not only causes the horse to be un-
necessarily pricked by the spurs, (if worn,) but
the firmness of the seat is lost; the heels should
be seven-eighths of an inch below the toes, and
the stirrups so adjusted that when the rider
raises himself on them, there may be the breadth
,of 4 fingers between the crotch and the saddle;
to make this adjustment, when the rider has ac-
quired a firm and correct seat he should without
changing that seat, push the bottom of the stir-
rup to the hollow of the foot, and then, with the
foot horizontal, feel a slight support from the
stirrup; when this is accomplished he replaces
the foot properly in the stirrup, and the heel will
then be seven-eighths of an inch below the
toes.

To give the rider a correct seat, the instructor,
having caused him to mount, seizes the lower
part of his leg, and stretches it straight toward
the fore-quarters of the horse, so as to bring the
buttocks of the rider square 0n the saddle; then
resting one hand on the man’s knee, he seizes
the lower part of the leg with the other, and
carries back the thigh and knee so as to bring
the crotch square on the saddle, the thighs cov.
ering the surcingle, the lower part of the leg,
from the knee down, also over the surcingle, and

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

sees that the rider does not sit too much on hfi
crotch, but has his buttocks well under him.
He then explains to the rider that the firmness
of the seat consists in this: that the rider grasps
the horse with his legs; that both thighs press
equally upon the saddle, in conformity with the
movements of the body, and that the general
movements of the body and thighs must conform
to those of the horse. He should be taught,
too, how to hold the feet, without allowing him
to place them in the stirrups, for this is one of
the most essential conditions for a good seat.

RINGBONE.-—This disease is generally
caused by heavy draught, especially in up-hill
work. The first appearance of the complaint is
indicated by a hard swelling upon the top of the
fetlock or pastern joint, accompanied by tender-
ness, pain, heat, etc. Cooling appliances, such
as cold water, soap, camphor, etc., with a little
laudanum, should be promptly applied, giving
the animal perfect rest, with green food or roots
in connection with hay—no grain. This may be
followed by some convenient preparation of io-
dine, like an ointment of iodide of lead and
lard. Rub in the ointment well, and follow up
the treatment for several weeks. If the case is
an obstinate one, try blistering with cerate or
cantharides, continuing, at intervals, the use of
the iodine. Equal parts of turpentine and kero-
sene would, no doubt, form a most excellent
wash—the crude coal oil would be better than
that which has been refined. Rub it well into
the hair around and above the hoof.

RINGBONE REMEDIES.—Pulverized
cantharides, oils of spike, origanum, amber, ce-
dar, Barbadoes tar, and British oil, of each 2
02.; oil of wormwood I 02., spirits of tu en.
tine 4 02., common potash % oz., nitric ac1d 6
02., oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) 4 oz., and lard
3 lbs. Melt the lard and slowly add the acids;
stir well and add the others, stirring until cold.
Clip off the hair, and apply by rubbing and heat-
ing in; in about 3 days, or when it is done run-
ning, wash off with suds and apply again. In
old cases it may take 3 or 4 weeks, but in recent
cases 2 or 3 applications will cure.——2. Take %
pint spirits of turpentine, % oz. blue stone, %
oz. of red precipitate. Shake well and use ev-
ery morning; and keep the hoof well greased.
This will not only take off the hair, but cause a
severe blister, which, after healing, if there still
be signs of lamenes, repeat the remedy.

RING IVORM.—Wash the parts with a very
strong infusion of bayberry bark, wipe dry, and
then smear the denuded spots with a mixture of
4 oz. of pyroligneous acid, I oz. of turpentine,
the washing and dressing to be repeated until
healthy action is established. If the disease does
not readily disappear, give sulphur, cream of
tartar and sassafras, equal parts, in a dose of 6
drachms daily. If the disease still lingers,
sponge the denuded parts with tincture of muri~
ate iron.

ROARING.—This is a loud sound which
some horses emit during the act of breathing,
and is caused by a diminution in the diameter, or
by a distortion of the windpipe, or by a wasting
of the muscles of the larynx, and imperfect
opening of the latter. It is incurable.

RUNA WA Y HORSES, To Prevent Inju—
ries from.—This can be done by electricity. A
complete electric apparatus can be purchased in
a small case. Let one of these be fixed in an

DOMESTIC ANIMALS—HORSES.

out-of-the-way nook in the carriage, 2 wires to

hook to harness, beneath which have 2 very thin

copper plates properly placed. In the event of

a runaway, the driver and inside occupants will

only have to press a glass knob to stop instantly

the mad career of the strongest horses.

RUPTURE.—-Rupture or hernia is the pro-
trusion of a bowel, 'or some other part, from its
proper cavity. It is sometimes congenital, and

imay then be reduced at the same time that cas-
tration is performed. At other times rupture

may be produced by blows, kicks or falls. A

hernia is dangerous to life when it becomes com-

ressed or strangulated by a stricture at the ori-

I(ice of protrusion. Skillful surgical aid should
always be obtained in any such case at once.
But sometimes, in the absence of a vetenarian,
any one may restore the gut by introducing the
hand into the bowel and drawing it up; the other
hand, at the same time, making gentle pressure
upon the swelling in the abdomen. N o violence
should ever be used in attempting this; and the
bowels should first be emptied by a clyster.

SCRA TCHES.-—If a horse’s blood is pure
he will not have the scratches. Give him a ta-
blespoonful of saltpetre every day for 15 days,
and be careful about his taking cold while feed—
ing it. It opens the pores so that he will take
cold very easy. Along with this take pure, dry
white lead, pure oxide of zinc, and glycerine, of
each % an 02 ; fresh lard (free from rancidity)
1% 07.. Mix the white lead, oxide of zinc and
glycerine to a uniform, smooth paste, then add
the lard, a little at a time, till a uniform, smooth
ointment is formed. Wash the parts with Cas-
tile soap and water, and dry with a cloth, then
apply the ointment 2 or 3 times daily with the
fingers. Wash once in 2 or 3 days, and dry the
spot well before dressing again.

The horse should stand on a plank floor kept
clean and dry; and if used, all dust, sand and
dirt should be washed off so that the affected
parts may remain clean. If these directions are
strictly carried out, it will seldom, if ever, fail
to cure the very worst cases within a reasonable
time.

SHOEING HORSES.—-Few horseshoers
understand thoroughly the anatomy of the horse’s
foot. The great mistake is made in attempting
to trim the hoof to fit the shoe, whereas the'shoe
should be made to fit the hoof. ' Very little trim-
ming is needed if the shoe is made right. The
frog should never be touched by the buttress, if
the foot is healthy, as Nature has intended that
to be the spring or cushion to first receive the
blow when the foot is set down on the road, to
guard the knee and shoulder from the concus-
sron.

Nothing can be more barbarous than the carv-
ing and cutting of a horse’s foot before shoeing,
though on his skill in this many a farrier prides
himself. The idea that the frog must not be al-
lowed to bear on the ground—that the sole must
be thinned till it “ springs on the thumb,” is a
most pernicious one.

As you value your horse, do not let the black-
smith even scrape the dirt ed the frog. It would
be better if he could not see it, because, if any-
thing fit to be called a frog, he will beg, argue,
and try every means to persuade you to let him
cutit. Do not turn your back to him while he
has the foot In his lap and knife in his hand, or
else 03‘ comes a portion of the frog. If the

 

l09

frog is left to itself it will, when Nature gets
ready, shed itself; but the difl'erence between
shedding and cutting is, that before shedding the
under frog is protected by a suitable covering,
but when cut it is exposed to the action of the
air and water, which causes it to crack, leaving
those “ rags” which the blacksmiths love so well
to cut. Do not open the heels, as it increases
the resistance offered to contraction.

The summer shoe needs to present a flat sur-
face to the ground. Make it of the same width
and thickness from the toe to the heel. Have
the seating deep, so as to prevent the sole press-
ing upon the shoe as it descends. Have a clip
at the toe to prevent the shoe slipping back, but
none at the sides, as they not only destroy too
much of the hoof, but prevent expansion. Have
the fullering deep to receive the nail-heads, and
have the nail holes straight—neither inclined in-
wardly or outwardly. Have only 5 nails to hold
on the shoe—2 on the inner, and 3 on the out-
side. Place the 2 on the inner side about 1%
inches from the top; those on the outside may
be placed further back toward the heel. The
reason is, that when the foot strikes the ground
it expands to relieve the horse of the shock of
his weight, and the inner side being thinner than
the outside, the expansion is greater. By plac-
ing the nails far back we prevent that expansion,
thereby cramping the foot, which makes the ani-
mal step short and quick, like one with tight
boots. If we take an old shoe, we find at the
heels that it is worn down, and also that it is
smaller and bright, which is not done by the
shifting of the shoe, as you only find it at the
heels, by the action of the foot while expanding
and contracting. Of course, this action wears
upon, but the foot is continually growing.

On fitting the shoe, do not let it burn the foot,
as it makes a strong foot brittle, and on a weak
one hurting the horse. Be sure it fits close to
the foot. Bring in the heels, as they do not, but
the nails prevent expansion. Do not get the
nails larger than necessary; bring them out low
down in the crust, and make the clinchers very
broad. Rasp below but not above the clinchers,
as the foot above is covered—if healthy—with a
varnish which excludes the air and water.

The hind shoe need not be so broad, but a lit-
tle higher at the heels. In this put 7 nails, as
the hind legs propel and the front legs receive
the weight.

The winter shoe needs toe and heel pieces to
prevent the horse from slipping. Have the in-
ner cork not quite so sharp as the outer one, so
that if he steps upon the other foot it will not
cut it.

The outside of the hoof ought not to be at all
touched by the rasp, save at the very edge, as
rasping tends to thicken the hoof and make it
coarse and clumsy. Shoes should be made just
as light as they possibly can be to answer the
purpose. Ordinarily they are % too heavy. A
horse’s hoof should be carefully cleaned every
day, and oiling the hoof once or twice a week is
recommended. ‘

SPA VIM—Take % oz. oil of amber, I oz.
oil of spike, 2 oz. spirits of turpentine, % oz.
nitric acid. The acid must be put into the bots
tle last. Apply this mixture thoroughly, and——
though it will not remove the bunch—the lame-
ness will generally disappear. If the horse is
over 4 years old, you will fit a bar of lead just

IIO

DI CT! ONAR Y 01“ E VER Y—DA Y WANTS.

 

above it, wireing the ends together so that it will
constantly wear upon the enlargement, and the
two together will cure 9 cases out of every 10 in
6 weeks.

SPA VIN CURE.—Take I 02. of origanum
oil, I oz. of British oil, 1 oz. of oil of spike, I
oz. oil of wormwood, I oz. gum myrrh, I gill of
alcohol. Put the oils together; put the gum in
the alcohol, and let it stand for 24 hours, and
then add it to the oils; shake well before using;
apply it to the parts affected, and rub it in well
with the hand, or heat it in with a hot iron. If
it is applied for a sprain, use it morning and eve-
ning. Wash clean once in 3 days.

SPLINYI—When a splint does not occasion
lameness it need not beinterfered with. To
cure, take volatile liniment (of the U. S. Dis-
pensatory) to which add I dr. of oil of origan-
um. Apply this thoroughly twice a day, fol—
lowed by rubbing the splint with a round pine
or bass wood stick, as hard as can be done with-
out abrading the skin. This treatment should
be continued several weeks, when it will be dis-
covered that the splints will grow less and finally
disappear.

SI’RAINS, General Treatment of.—Rest is
the first requirement. Next apply wet bandages
until the heat is abated. and until there is no
pain on pressure; then rub with some simple
Ointment.

STA GGERS.-—-—This is a functional disorder
of the brain, which, when once it has declared
itself, is said to be beyond cure. The following
prescription may be tried. Give a mess twice
per week composed of x galr of bran, I table-
spoonful of sulphur, I spoonful of saltpetre, I
quart of boiling sassafras tea, 1% oz. assafetida.
Keep the horse from cold water for % a day af-
terwards.

S T RANGLES.—Feed with light, cooling
(green if it can be had) food; mix the food with
Sassafras tea, in which a spoonful of powdered
sulphur and a teaspoonful of saltpetre have been
added.

STIFLE—STEPPING, To Cure.— % a tea-
cup of vinegar, the whites of 2 eggs, a piece of
alum the size of a chesnut, well beaten, dissolved
and warmed. Twitch and knee-strap the fore
leg standing off from the affected member. Ap-
ply with the hand and rub it in well; saturate a

iece of flannel 6 inches square, place it over the
Joint, cover this with a double thickness of the
same, long enough to lap behind the leg, and
draw it very tight. Now take a very hot flat-
iron and iron it, being cautious not to blister
your horse too severely. Turn him out, and in
I week repeat; in the meantime bathe the parts
with a decoction of white-oak bark.

S WEEzVK—A horse is said to be sweenied
when the muscles of the shoulder appear to have
perished away, and the skin seems to be attached
closely to the shoulder-blade. These symptoms
may arise from chronic lameness in the foot or
other part of the limb. In such case, of course
it is of no use to apply remedies to the shoulder.
Cure the foot, and the shoulder will come right,
although stimulants and rubbing will expedite
it. But genuine sweeny is quite different from
the above, although the appearances are the
same. It is caused by hard drawing in a colldr
that is too large; or where no whiffletree is ever
used, but the traces are hitched directly to the
thills, as in “jumpers,” as they are called; or

 

by jumping fences, or the like. The presence of
real sweeny may be discovered by moving the
horse in a circle, or causing him to step over
bars, when you can generally determine the seat
of the lameness. For such cases irritants with
friction, is the proper treatment. Blistering lin-
iment, or seton, or a piece of leather inserted
under the skin, will cure, with rest.

TAM/N0 AND TRAINING—Many per-
sons pay for instructions in training horses, and yet
they nearly all fail, simply because, with all the
instructions in the world, they cannot handle a
horse—it is not in them. To be a successful
trainer you must have a sympathy with the horse
and a personal power of control. That which
partakes of the power necessary to subdue and
train, you will find in your own mind, your own
love, will and wisdom. If you have little or no
instinctive love for the horse, of course you are
not the person to control him. Men and women
are often found who are said to have the natural

'ft of controlling the horse; they love horses
rom instinct, as it were. - The secret in these
cases consists in their intense love for the horse.
If you love the horse, you will, you can, but
know how to make the horse love you. Love,
in all grades of animals, has its appropriate lan-
guage ; and when this language is addressed to
the horse, it excites love, of course. A blow
with awhip or club does not come from love,
but from combativeness, and it excites combat-
iveness or fear in the horse. If you want to
make a horse love you, (and you must cause him
to love you if you control him,) why of course
you must love him and treat him accordingly.
Study the character of your horse—not the na-
ture of horses in general, but of the horse that
you wish to control. Horses differ in their .dis-
positions as really as men do, and each one is to
be approached, attracted, pleased and controlled
accordingly. To Make Him Lie Down—First,
catch your horse, then strap the near fore leg up
round the arm of the animal; lead him about on
3 legs until he becomes tired or weary; he will
then allow you to handle him an where; then
attach a strap with a ring to the o fore~fetlock;
to this ring fasten another strap, which being
brought over the horse’s back to the near s1de,
is put through the ring on the off fore fetlock;
return the end of the strap to the near side, still
keeping fast hold, and move the animal on, and
pull; he will then be thrown upon his knees,
when, after struggling for some time, by gentle
usage he will lie down. After unloosmg the
straps, put him through the same process as be-
fore, when the horse will lie down whenever re.
quired. Uniformity is necessary in our method.
It is by the repetition, by the constant recurrence
of certain motions, words or actions, that we suc-
ceed. Many fail for the want of uniformity in
their method. They are loving and kind by
spells; then they are harsh and cruel: The
horse is “impressed,” as it is said, With his Inas-
ter’s wishes, when those wishes are often and
uniformly expressed in motions, words and ac-
tions! If man needs “ precept upon precept,
line 11 on line, etc., in order to learn his lessons
well, ow much more trueds this of the horse,
which is below man in consciousness and the re-
flective faculties. T ear/ting Him to Pam—.-
Buckle 3. 41b. weight around the ankles of his
hind legs, (lead is preferable ;) ride. your horse
briskly with these weights upon his ankles, at

DOMESTIC ANIMALS—HORSES.

I"

 

the same time, twitching each rein of the bridle
alternately; by this means on will immediately
throw him into a pace. A ter you have trained
him in this way to some extent, change your
leaded weights for something lighter; leather
padding, or something equal to it, will answer
the purpose; let him wear these light weights
until he is perfectly trained. This process Will
make a smooth and easy pacer of any horse.
To Make Him Trot. —The secret consists in
using rollers on the front feet. These rollers
are made of pieces of wood or horn turned
round, as big as a hickory nut, with a gimlet
hole bored through the centre of each, and about
[2 of them strung on a string or narrow strap,
(which should be much smaller than the hole,)
and then tied or buckled very loose around the
feter-lock joint next to the hoof, so that they
will play loose up and down when the horse is
in motion. As soon as the horse finds some-
thing on his feet, he will lift them up higher and
throw them out further and handsomer; this he
will soon learn permanently. Another secret is
that a small or medium sized flat is the best, and
far superior to the track system for teaching the
horse or colt to gather quickly. A very light
skeleton or gig should be used in training. To
Sit on his Haunclzer.—First learn the horse to
obey you, so that when you say “ Ho 1” he will
remain still. Then, having learned him to lie
down, let him get up on his fore legs, and then
stop him. The horse gets up in this way, and
you have only to teach him to hold his position
for a while. It does not strain the horse to sit,
and you must always use the word “sit” in con~
nection with the feat. Also the word “ down”
when you wish him to fall. T a Make Him Fol-
low Yaw—Take your horse to the stable, put on
a surcingle and a bridle with short reins, which
may be checked up a little and fastened to the
surcingle. Then lead him about a few times,
and letting go the bridle continue to caress him,
as you constantly say, “ Come along.” If he
lag, give him a light cut behind with a long
whip. Continue this until you succeed. Do not
forget the element of “love” in this as well as
other feats. T 0 Teach [£712 to Pic/e Up a Haml-
kcrclzg'ef—Spread on the sawdust a white cloth
containing a liberal supply of oats ; lead the an-
imal round the ring, and let him take some of
the oats. This is lesson No. I—its object being
to fix in the horse’s mind a connection between
the cloth and the oats. The march round the
Circle bemg once or twice repeated, he stops at
the handkerchief as a matter of course. By dint
of practice—say a couple of weeks—he will learn
to stop as readlly in a trot or a gallop as in a
walk. After a time the handkerchief must be
doubled over and tied in a knot; the animal
shakes it to get at the grain, but not succeeding,
lifts it from the ground, which is just the thing
wanted. When the horse has done this afew
times, and finds that, though he can shake noth-
lng out, he will receive a handful of oats as a re-
ward, he may be trusted to perform in public.
The last step of all— ersuading the horse to
carry the handkerchie to his owner—is easily
done. Of his own accord he will hold the cloth
till it is taken from his mouth, and there will be
little difficulty in coaxing him to walk a few steps
‘ --when he knows that he will get a handful of
Oats or a carrot for his obedience. T caching
Hun ta Walk—For every-day use, the most

 

economical gait for a horse is a fast walk; and
yet not half the thought is given to this essential
that there is to other things that secure to the
horse a name rather than intrinsic value. Colts
can be taught to walk fast by following them for
a half day together (some one leading) with a
small switch, starting them, when inclined to go
slow, into a uicker pace. After they are har-
nessed keep ast walking in mind, and when on
level ground, or going up a hill with a very light
load, urge them to their utmost, until 4 miles an
hour becomes a habit. T caching Him to Stand.
—Take your horse on the barn floor, and throw
a strap over his back and fasten it to his right
fore foot; lead him along and say “ Whoa,” and
at the same time pull down the strap, which will
throw him on 3 feet, and make him stop sud-
denly. This is the best way known to teach
“ Whoa,” though you can put on the war bri-
dle, and give him a sharp jerk that will stop him
about as soon as the strap to his foot. Then put
him in harness, with the foot strap, as directed
under the head of “ Training to Harness,” and
drive him up to the door. The moment he un-
dertakes to move, take his foot and say “Whoa.”
Get in your carriage and get out again ; rattle
the thills; make all the noise getting in and out
you can; give him to understand, by snatching
his foot each time he moves, that he must stand
until you tell him to go; and after a few times
you can put the whole family in the carriage, and
he will not stir out of his tracks.

TAMIZV G, Preparation fan—Take finely
grated horse castor, and oils of rhodium and
cummin ; keep these in separate bottles, well
corked; put some of the oil of cummin on your
hand, and approach the horse on the windy side.
He will then move toward you; then rub some
of the cummin on his nese; give him a little of
the castor on anything he likes, and get 8 or IO
drops of the oil of rhodium on the point of his
tongue ; you can then get him to do anything
you please. Follow up your advantage by all
the kindness and attention possible toward the
animal, and your control is certain.

TENDONS, CONTRA CTED.—First try
the effect of lowering the heels a little more than
the toe at each shoeing, and applying a shoe with
a plate projecting an inch or two in front of the
toe. f there is much tenderness of the back
sinews on pressure, this form of shoeing must
be avoided until that has been removed. The
thickened tendons must be rubbed daily with a
mixture in equal parts of strong iodine ointment
and blue ointment, until blistering takes place,
when it may be discontinued until the effects
have passed off. The horse should have a yard
or small paddock to run in where he is not very
likely to be excited to vigorous or irregular ac-
tion, or, if kept in-doors, let it be in a roomy
box, and give a moderate amount of walking ex-
ercise daily. Should several months of this sort
of treatment fail to restore in part, it may be ad-
visable, perhaps, to have the back sinews cut
through.

TIIRUSH—This is a discharge of very of-
fensive matter from the cleft of the frog. It is
inflammation of the lower surface of the sensible
frog, and during which pus is secreted together
with, or instead of horn. In its treatment, al~
most any astringent substance will check thrush
in its early stage. Tar and common salt mixed
is a very good application, and tar and sulphate

112

DI C TI ONA R Y OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

‘f zinc can also be highly recommended. Be-
.bre the introduction of either of these prepara-
tions, the frog should be carefully inspected and
all decayed parts removed. The dressing must
be pressed to the bottom of the cleft and com-
missures of the frog, and this should 'be repeated
' every other 'day or twice a week.

TRICKS 0F HORSE-DEALERS.—Un-
less a man is accustomed to horses, it is the
greatest folly in the world to depend upon his
own knowledge in purchasing them, for there is
a class of men who make their living by bringing
up horses with all manner of defects, and which
their art enables them to disguise just as long as
is sufficient to take in their dupes. In buying
as well as selling are these deceptions practiced.
A few of these “ tricks” are as follows. To
Make a T rue-pulling [lame Battles—Take tinc-
ture of cantharides I 02., and corrosive subli-
mate I dr. Mix, and bathe his shoulders freely
at night. To fllalee a Home Appear a: if Lame.
—Take a single hair from the tail; put through
the eye of a needle ; lift the front leg, and press
the skin between the outer and middle tendon or
cord; shove the needle through ; cut off the hair
on each side, and let the foot down; the horse
will go lame in 20 minutes. To [Make a Home

Stand (5y His Food and Not Eat It.—Grease’

the front teeth and the roof of the mouth with
common beef tailow, and he will not eat till you
have washed it out. To [Make a Home Appear
ar if Badly Fozmdered.4Take a fine wire and
fasten it tight around the fetlock, between the
foot and heel, and smooth the hair over it. In
20 minutes the horse will show lameness. Do
not leave it on over 9 hours—To Cure a [lone
(ft/1e C rz'o or Sucking FVz'zza’s—Saw between the
upper teeth to the gums. To Cover Up t/ze
Heaven—Drench the horse with % lb. of com-
.mon bird shot, and he will not heave until they
pass through him. To Make a flame Appear
a: sze Had the Glander:.—Melt 4 oz. of fresh
butter, and pour it into his ear. To Nerve a
Horse Mat is Lama—Make a small incision
about half way from the knee to the joint on the
outside of the leg, and at the back part of the
shin bone you will find a small white tendon or
cord; cut it off and close the external wound
with a stitch, and he will walk off on the hard-
est pavement and not limp a particle. To Dir-

ire LamenerL—VVhen a horse goes dead lame
in one shoulder, it can be disguised by creating
a similar lameness in the corresponding leg, by
taking off the shoe and inserting a bean between
it and the foot. To PutBlaeKz Spot: on a White
Homer—Take of powdered quick-lime % a 1b.,
and litharge 4 oz. Well beat and mix the lith~
arge with the lime. The above is to be put into
a vessel, and a sharp ley is to be poured over it.
Boil and skim off the substance which rises on
the surface. This is the coloring matter, which
must be applied to such parts of the animal as
you wish to have dyed black. To Produce a
Star on a Home—Take a piece of coarse tow-
linen, the size of the wished~for star; spread on
it warm pitch, and apply it to the shaved spot;
leave it on for 2 or 3 days, when wash with a
little asmart water, or elixir of vitriol, 2 or 3
times a day until well. When the hair grows
it will be white. T 0 Make an Old Home Appear
Young—This is done by filing down the teeth,
the dark markings on which are removed by a
hot iron. Filling up the depressions over the

 

horse’s eyes, by puncturing the skin over the
cavity, and filling through a tube by air from the
mouth, and then closing the aperture, when the
brow will become smooth—for a time. The
white hairs are painted out, when the animal will
altogether have a youthful appearance. - .

URINE, Sloppage of—Symptoms: Frequent
attempts to urinate, looking round at his sides,
lying down, rolling and stretching. To cure,
take % lb. of hops, 3 drs. oil of camphor ; grind
and mix. Make this into 3 pills. Give I eve
day, with a drench made of a small spoonful of
saltpetre and 2 oz. of water. This will cure, as
a general thing.

WA 1? T S, To Cum—The safest and most ef-
fectual caustic for destroying warts is chromic
acid. Having first picked off the rough outer
surface of the warts so as to make them bleed,
apply, by means of a small wooden spatula, a
little of the dry acid, rubbing it well in. This
will cause a free discharge of watery fluid from
the surface. In a few days the wart is converted
into a tough, leather-like substance, which ulti-
mately falls off, generally leaving a healthy sore,
which soon heals.

WARTS ON A HORSE’S NOSE.——Dis-
solve % lb. of alum in a quart of water. with a
brush or cloth wet the warts twice each day for
4 days, and they will disappear. Another rem-
edy is to smear the warts with salted butter.

WA TE)? FARCIM—Symptoms: The horse
is dull and loses his appetite, and swells along
the belly or chest and between the fore legs. To
cure: Rowel in the breast, and along each side
of the chest, as far as the swelling goes. Leave
the rowels in until the swelling goes down . give
a spoonful of cleansing powders morning and
mi ht.

gI/VEZV, To Cure a.——Take equal parts of soft
soap and slaked lime, well mixed. Lance the
wen at the time of making the application, or
two or three days after. Two or three applica-
tions will cure.

WIND- GA LLS.——Wind-galls are puffy swel~
lings above and behind the fetlocks, caused b;
the enlargement of the sheathes through whic
the tendons pass. In recent cases nothing fur-
ther is required than rest, aperient medicine, and
wet bandages wrapped firmly around the swell-
ings. It may also be advisable to remove the
shoe and shorten the toe to remove the tension
of the tendons. When there is lameness, and
the swelling is indurated, hot fomentations for
several hours a day, or poultices, should be ap-
plied. A woolen bandage should afterwards be
applied, and camphorated spirits well rubbed m
dail .

MglND Ill/HORSES, To Improve—It will
be found, if tar water and powdered charcoal are
mixed with the horse’s feed, that it will have a
most beneficial effect on his wind and condi-
tion.

WORMS IN HORSES—I. Give eve
morning, one hour before feeding, 3 drs. of s .
phate of iron and 2 drs. of assafetrda; and ev.
ery night, for a week, throw up an inlection of I
02. oil of turpentine and 10 oz. of llnseed 011.
Green food is to be preferred. —2. White-ash
bark burnt to ashes and made into rather a very
strong ley; then mix % :1 pt. of it with} pt. of
warm water, and give all 2 or 3 times daily.

WOUNDS.—One of the best washes that is
known for ordinary wounds on horses, is to take

DOMESTIC AJVIMALS—PO UL TR 1".

lb. of salt etre, ' a pt. turpentine, and put
tuhem into a blintle; fhake up well before using;
apply to the wound 3 times a day with a feather.

POULTRY.

'- BONES, T o Pulveriz: fbr Fowlr.——Put the
bones in a stove and allow them to burn white,
when they can then be easily pulverized; then
mix with corn meal and feed twice a day.

CHI CK ENS, Management of—After emerg-
ing from the shells the chickens should not be
removed from under the hen. They are at first
weakly and wet, but in a few hours they become
thoroughly dry, and it is not until their little
quaint heads peep from under the feathers of the
hen that sheshould be removed from the nest.
Many persons imagine that the chickens require
feeding as soon as hatched. This is an error.
At the time of hatching, the remains of the yelk
are drawn into the digestive canal of the chick,
and constitute its first food. This will last it for
20 to 30 hours, and then the chickens are strong
and active on the legs, and ready to eat with
avidity. As regards the first food for the chicks,
there is nothing approaching in value to a mix-
ture of equal parts of grated bread, yelk of hard-
boiled eggs, and oatmeal slightly moistened with
water. This is the best food for the first fort-
night; then add gradually groats, hemp-seed,
and green food, such as cress, lettuce, cabbage,
and leeks, chopped fine. If the weather is cold
and wet, add a little powdered pimento to the
food occasionally, also a little finely minced meat
as a substitute for worms and insects, fresh curd
and hard-boiled eggs mashed up with the shells.
Feed the chickens early in the morning, and of-
ten during the day, giving but little at a time;
the water vessels should be shallow and fre-
quently refilled, and so arranged that the chick-
ens cannot get into them. Throw the food on
the ground to the chickens ; they will then pick
up gravel along with it, which is necessary for
the digestion of their food. Of course there is
not so much necessity for a substitute for the
natural animal food when the hens have a free
range, and can scratch for worms and insects for
the brood. It is important that a hen with
chickens should be well fed, for if poorly fed
she will drag her progeny about in search of
food, taking them through the wet grass, and
wear ing them with over-exertion; but if well
fed 5 e broods them carefully, and only scratches
to supply them with grubs and dainty animal
food. Both hen and chickens must be carefully
and warmly housed at night, and never allowed
out until the dew is quite off the grass.

CA FONS—Place the fowl on its left side on
the table, with its back to the operator, a strap
round its wings, and the legs in a noose. Pluck
off the feathers between the first and second
ribs, and with the thumb and finger of the left
hand draw the skin tense, so as to ascertain pos-
itively the space between the ribs. With a very
sharp knife make an incision through the skin
only, an inch long, measuring from the point of
the first rib backward. This will expose the
two ribs and the margin of a large muscle run-
ning down the thigh. This muscle is in no dan-
ger of being injured if the incision be made at
the proper point; but if otherwise, an injury to
it will cause lameness. Divide the muscle be-
tween the ribs, by introducing the knife at the

 

113

point of the first rib and cutting backwards
about an inch. In this way the pleura is surely
avoided, and of course an escape of air.

Now, by introducing two small books, or any
other suitable apparatus, draw apart the ribs so
as to expose a bundle of fibres called the inter-
costal muscle. Should the incision be too small,
it may be enlarged by passing the knife round '
the point of the second rib. Divide the belly of
the intercostal muscle lengthwise, and you will
perceive a semi- transparent membrane, called
the peritoneum. This must likewise be divided,
keeping the knife as far off as possible from the
pleura. A branch of the coeliac artery traverses
this membrane, and may be injured by a hung
ling hand or by inattention. On cutting through
this membrane the upper testicle is brought into
view. This lies on the margin of the lateral
spinous processes, surrounded by nerves and
blood vessels. It is a small yellow body, its
color somewhat darkened by the membrane covo
ering it. In pushing downward and forward the
intestine, the second testicle is brought into view,
lying centrally between two large blood vessels-
This must be removed with great care, so as not
to injure any of the neighboring veins.

CAN/{ER [N F0 WLS.—This disease is in-
dicated by the mouth and throat becoming filled
up with a cheesy substance of very offensive
odor, which causes in some cases a stoppage of
the windpipe and death by suffocation. It is to
be treated successfully as follows: I. If the fowl
is not worth a good deal cut its head off.——2. If
worth saving, with a small spoon and pincers
take out all the cheesy matter, and wipe out all
the slimy mucus from mouth, nostrils, and eyes.
3. Prepare a solution of chlorinated soda or
chloride of lime. If chlorinated soda (Laba-
raque’s solution) is used, dilute it with one or
two parts of water. Wash the head, eyes, nos-
trils, mouth and throat out thoroughly, using a
soft swab with one of these solutions, and in 20
minutes give the fowl a good feed of chopped
meat, mixed with bread soaked in ale or spirits
and water, and well sprinkled with Cayenne
pepper. Give some solution of iron in the wa-
ter, and keep up the diet indicated until well.
Put the whole flock on a similar diet for a few
days, especially those having colds.

A T A RRH AND C 0LD.——These com-
plaints in fowls are caused by their being ex-
posed to dampness, and, if allowed to continue,
will run to roup. Keep them on dr , elevated
places. Red pepper mixed with sot food, fed
several times a week, will remove a cold; and
pulverized charcoal, given occasionally, is a pre-
ventive of putrid affections.

CHOLEA’A, CHICKEN—A remedy pro-
mulgated by the Department of Agriculture is
alum alone—giving 3 or 4 teaspoons of alum
water daily, and mix with the feed (corn-meal)
strong alum water. This is said to cure the very
worst cases. A'nother remedy is to feed raw
onions, chopped fine, mixed with other food,
about twice a week. '

CROUP.—Try and remove the croup mem-
branes from the mouth with a feather, and then
touch the parts with a feather dipped in a solu-
tion of nitrate of siver, IO grs. to I oz. of rain-
water. Feed no raw grain. Well boiled oat-
meal or Indian corn-meal will make an excellent
substitute. Put % an oz. of carbonate of soda
in 8every quart of the water drank by the chick-

n4

ens, and, if possible, change their roosting place
to a new building. If this last cannot be done,
clean the place thoroughly, and wash it over
with a,solution at the rate of an ounce of car-
bolic acid- to a uart of water.

CHIC/(E -SCRA TCHING—Most people
object to allowing hens in gardens because of
their scratching peculiarities. This may be right
at time of seed-planting, and until the young
plants are well started on their growth above the
ground; but before and after this time, when
scratching will do no harm, chickens should be
allowed their full freedom, because of the good
they do in freeing the ground from insects. .«In
a recent article which appeared in a prominent
agricultural paper, the writer says: “ Recently
we were at work in our garden. Half of it was
dug and some planted. The fourteen hens and
two roosters were throwing dirt at a fearful rate ;
peas and beans were unearthed, but none of them
were eaten; but when an earth-worm or grub
was brought in sight, it was swallowed as sud-
denly as Western men are said to swallow oys-
ters. While watching them, one found some-
thing that pleased her so much that she chuckled
audibly. By making a sudden rush toward her,
she dropped it—it was the pupa or Chrysalis of
one of those large green caterpillars (usually
called “ worms”) that are found on potato and
tomato plants. Gardeners who understand how
to make their business profitable will use great
quantities of well-rotted stable manure. If the
hens are on hand when this manure is spread,
how busy and how happ they will be! Some
may suppose they are looking for grain ; perhaps
they do find some kernels, but more often Chrys-
alids looking like grains of rye, which are the
pupae of flies—generally our common house-flies.
Could all such manure heaps be submitted to a
thorough scratching by the poultry, we should
be less tormented with insects. Both vegetable
and fruit gardens could be arranged so that hens
and chickens could have access nearly all the
time to great advantage. Especially should
fowls be kept in orchards. If so kept they will
work among the trees, doing just what is need-
ed, keeping the ground well cultivated, and de»
stroying everything that can injure the fruit and
trees in the shape of bugs, worms, and other in.
sects.

DROOPING WINGS.—This, in either tur-
keys or chickens, is caused by vermin To cure
it, grease their heads, the under sides of their
wings, and their bodies under their wings, with
lard or fried meat fat, or any other grease. In
a. few days their wings will be natural, and their
appetite and comfort will return.

DUCKS, To Fallen—Give them oats, meal
and barley. This feed puts on flesh rapidly.
Shut your ducks up in a good coop, with no run-
way. They must have no exercise, for that
gives health, not fat. Feed them with bran,
oats, oat-meal, or barley-meal, cooked; put in a
shallow vessel; give gravel, water, cabbage
leaves or a sod of grass. Some feed Indian
meal, and proceed with the cramming process ;
but this is unnecessary, as young ducks will eat
all .the food put before them, and in that way
cram themselves without assistance. Let what-
ever food you give them be cooked and fed

warm. .
EGG-EATING HENS.—To cure this”'hab-
it, break an egg and dust the contents nicely

 

I

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

with fine Cayenne pepper, afterwards turning
the egg round so as to get the pepper below the
yelk, if possible, and leave the egg in the of-
fender’s nest; or, if he catches her in the act of
eating an egg, let him drive her away quietly,
and place pepper in the remainder of the egg,
endeavormg, as stated before, to get the pepper
underneath. He will very soon see her running
furiously about with distended beak. If one
dose 15 not sufficient, administer another a little
stronger. If fowls are well supplied with lime
and gravel rubbish and animal food (fresh meat)
in some form, hens will not eat their eggs. Ar-

tificial or china eggs should be used as nest

eggs.

E GG-PROD UCERS, BEST—Experience
has indicated that for laying eggs the Polands
are most desirable; for the table, DOrkings ; and
for early marketable chickens, Brahmas and Co-
chins. A writer who has had constderable ex-
perience in raising fowls for profit says: The
Farmer’s Breed is the breed for profit. It con-
sists of Brahma hens and colored Dorking cocks
—the chicks from which are hardy, easily reared, '
grow fast, and in four months, without extra
feed, will dress four to five pounds each of fine-
grained, well-formed, plump-breasted, wechol-
ored flesh, fit for the table of any amateur or ep-
icure, and always commanding a good price in
market. The hens from this cross are even bet-
ter and more continuous layers than either pure
Brahma or the Dorking; but if wanted to breed
again, the farmer must keep one coop separate
of Brahmas—say a cock and two hens—and so
also of the Dorkings, and thus yearly with the
cross of pure bred birds, cocks of the Dorkings
and hens of the Brahmas, keep up the “ Farms
er’s Breed for profit.”

EGGS, SEX 0F.-——It is affirmed with assur’
ance that the eggs containing the germ of male,
have wrinkles on their smaller ends, while fe‘
male eggs are smooth at their extremities.

FA TTENING POUL TR Y.—The fowls de
signed for being fattened should be well and lib!
erally fed from the time they are hatched. It is
a mistake to suppose that they can be kept low
when young, and got up to a great size by lib-
eral feeding when put up to fatten. The fowls
so treated are stunted in their growth, the bony
frame-work becomes set, and they never after-
ward attain a large size; whereas with liberal
feeding they become fit for the fatting-coop at
the age of about four months in summer, and
from five to six in winter. It cannot be too
strongly impressed upon those who are desirous
of obtaining poultry of first-rate quality, that
fowls are only in perfection for the table before
they have attained their complete development.
The cockerels should be put up when “their
tails begin to turn”—namely, just when the two
long sickle feathers or streamers begin to top the
straight feathers of the tail; and the pullets be-
fore they have laid. They may be either con-
fined within a small space or placed in a coop, in
a warm and rather dark situation, and, of course,
under cover. The fowls should be separated
from each other by partitions in the cccp and
no more space ought to be allowed them than is
necessary to make them comfortable, without al-
lowing room for exercise.

The fatting-coops should stand on legs, in or.
der to raise them .to a convenient height from
the ground, so that the dung may be removed

DOMESTIC ANIMALS—P0 UL T)? Y.

:15

 

daily; or each may have a shallow drawer un-
derneath, being daily filled with fresh earth—an
admirable plan—the fowls being very fond of
nestling in dry earth, and earth being a. deodor-
izer and disinfectant, it is most conducive to their
health. The most scrupulous cleanliness must
be observed in the case of fattening fowls; the
troughs in front of the coop must be removed
when the fowls have ceased eating, the remains
of food taken out, and the troughs scalded and
laid in the sun to dry daily. Not a particle of
food that has become sour should be given to
them; indeed, they will eat better if fresh food,
and of a different kind, be given to them at each
meal. When first put into the coop they should
not have any thing placed before them for some
hours, till they have recovered from their fright
at being caught, and have become accustomed to
their new residence. Afterwards they should be
fed with much regularity three times each day,
giving them at each meal as much as they can
eat, but not leaving anything for them to pick up
n the intervals.

When first placed in the coop they may be fed
twice a day on boiled potatoes, mashed up with
coarse oat-meal, and moistened with a little new
milk. The third meal may be Patna rice, well
boiled, with a little milk added. When the
fowls are nearly fat, the rice may be given twice
a day and the potatoes only once; the rice makes
the flesh white and clear. A little vegetable,
chopped fine, may occasionally be given to vary
the character of their food; the earth in the
coop will supply the small stones necessary for
their digestion. The first meal should be given
early in the morning, the second about mid-day,
and the last at dusk, when the other fowls are
going to roost.

On this system of feeding, a fowl will become
perfectly fatted in from a fortnight to three or
four weeks at the outside. When fat it should
be immediately killed ; for not only is it unprof-
itable to keep it any longer, but it deteriorates
very rapidly, losing weight and becoming hard
and coarse in the flesh. Before being killed, the
fowls should be kept for fifteen or sixteen hours
without food or water. If this precaution is not
taken, (and it is unfortunately often neglected,)
the food in the crop and intestines ferments.
When this is the case in summer, the fowl in a
few hours turns green, and is entirely unfit for
the table.

FOWLS, 0LD.—To have the poultry yard
profitable, the fowls should not be kept until
they are old. There is no objection to preserv-
ing a favorite cock, as long as he is active and
lively, but hens after three years will not pro-
duce as many eggs as those of one or two

cars.

GA PE S. -——This destructive disease is believed
to be infectious and epidemic. Unless perhaps
thus communicated by others, it never occurs
except there has been foul water, exposure to
wet, and want of nourishing foOd. The disease
consists—at least so far as actual symptoms ex-
tend—in a number of small worms which infest
the windpipe, and cause the poor chicken to
gasp for breath. If taken early, it will be suffi-

'c1ent_to give, every day, a morsel of camphor
the sue of a grain of wheat, and to put camphor
in the drinking water; or a little turpentine may
be given daily in meal, taking care, of course,
that the deficiencies in diet and shelter be also

 

amended. In fully developed cases, the worms
must be removed by introducing a loop of horse-
hair into the trachea, and turning round during
withdrawal—the operation to be repeated several
times, till all the worms appear to be extracted.
A feather, stri ped almost up to the top, may be
used instead 0 the horse-hair. Crumbs of dough
impregnated with soft soap, givenvonce or twice,
is also said to cure. .

GEESE, T0 MANAGE.—The goose lays
from [0 to 20 eggs before sitting, and when she
is well fed and attended to she will lay and hatch
3 times in a year. She begins to lay early in
March, and even toward the end of February.
The period of laying may be perceived in the
circumstance that the goose at that time carries
about straws in its bill, prompted by the devel—
opment of . the maternal instinct to prepare a
nest. When this practice is observed it will be
found prudent to confine the bird, providing her
with a nest for laying and hatching in, which
should be made of straw lined with hay, and so
formed that the eggs will not readily fall out, es-
pecially when the bird turns them. I 5 eggs will
be sufficient to place under even a large bird.
The period of incubation is a month, but some
of the goslings may be hatched a day or two be-
fore this time; it is desirable, however, that all
the young birds be hatched about the same time,
and to this end as much care as is practicable
should be taken to have all the eggs equally
fresh. When the brood are hatched they ought
to be turned out into a sunny place, sheltered
alike from cold winds and bad weather; but it is
not only unnecessary, but prejudicial, to feed
them for 12 hours or so. Their earliest food
ought to be bread soaked in milk, curds, por-
ridge, boiled greens, boiled potatoes mixed with
bran; and such food ought to be given them at
a moderate temperature, so as to avoid the en-
trance of heat or cold, and for a couple of days at
least after being hatched the goslings ought not
to be allowed access to cold water, which often
gives them cramp.

As a general rule, geese ought to be confined
as little as possible. If they are allowed to run
about the fields, ditches, and streams of water,
they will forage for themselves very success-
fully. Grass and water are essential to their
comfort and well-being, such grass especially as
may be found on damp and swampy soil, and
which, however rank or coarse it may be, is well
adapted to them. In harvest time the stubble—
fields are an excellent pasturage for them; they
can there pick up no small supply of corn, and
which would otherwise be lost, and they obtain
abundance of young grass and other herbage.
The advantages of a stubble-field, however, are
not always to be had, but where this occurs the
kitchen-garden may be made available. In au-
tumn the geese may be turned into it without
the danger of their doing any serious damage;
but they ought to be fed occasionally on boiled
potatoes, bruised up with bran, or the result of
their foraging for themselves will not be produc-
tive of any advantage.

Goslings in June and July will fatten without
any food beyond what they can gather for them-
selves in the stubble-fields; but if it be neces-
sary to hasten the process theymust be supplied
with additional nutriment for that purpose, such
as potatoes and turnips bruised with meal, and
they should thus be fed once a day. There are

116

various methods of fattening geese, but the sim-
plest and best is nutritive food, and in abun-

rice.

GUINEA F0 WL.—This bird is a native of
that part of Africa which its name indicates, but
it is also said to be indigenous in America. It
is a larger bird than our ordinary barn-door fowl
—-but the eggs are small, three of them being
hardly equal to an ordinary hen’s egg; they are,
however, numerous and well-flavored. This
fowl does not thrive in confinement, but requires
perfect liberty, and a wide space over which to
wander. And it is of so pugnacious a character,
moreover, that it can hardly be got to associate
with other poultry on amicable terms. The dif-
ficulty of rearing the young ones in this damp
climate, and the very noisy and destructive hab-
its of the old birds, may account for their ab-
sence generally from our poultry yards. They
are, however, very excellent eating, and well
worth the trouble of keeping. The best way to
raise and keep them is to procure some eggs of
a good stock, hatch them under a small variety
of fowl, such as game-fowl or bantams; when
the chicks appear, keep them under cover where
they can have lenty of air and dry gravel; feed
them frequent y—at least once in every three
hours. Begin by giving eggs and milk made into
rather a dry custard; toward the end of the first
month add a little oat-meal mixed with milk, and
as they grow older boiled vegetables small wheat
and potatoes may be given. Ants’ eggs are their
favorite delicacy, and will be found most nour-
ishing food for them. These birds are very fond
of scratching in a garden, not for seeds, but for
insects and grubs, and it is questionable whether
they do most harm in rooting out the gardener’s
seeds, or good in destroying the insects that
would destroy his plants after they had grown

up.

HENS, T a Make Lay.—A hen is said to have
the capacity of laying 600 eggs and no more—a
few in her first year, from 320 to 375 in the next
three, and the rest from the fifth to the ninth in-
clusive. The true economy, therefore, is not to
keep hens after their fourth year. By feeding
stimulating food, the hen can be made to lay the
quantum of eggs with which she is endowed in
a much shorter time than if left to scratch for
herself. There is no better food for this pur-
pose, fed each alternate day than the following:
To 3 gals. of boiling water add % oz. of com-
mon salt, a teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper, and
4 oz. lard. Stir the mixture until the pepper has
imparted considerable of its strength to the wa-
ter. Meantime the salt will have been dissolved
and the lard melted. Then, while yet boiling
hot, stir in a meal made of oats and corn, ground
together in equal proportions, until a stiff mush
is formed. Set away to cool down to a milk
warmth. Before feeding taste to see that you
have an overdose neither of salt nor pepper, and
to prevent the hens from being imposed upon
with a mixture not fit to be eaten. Besides
this, especially during the winter, give them on
the days on which the above mixture is omitted,
a 1% oz. of fresh meat chopped fine, and at all
times plenty of pure water, grain, gravel, and

ime.

HEMROOSTS, To Destroy Vermin on.—
This can be done promptly and simplyby sprink-
ling kerosene on their roosts.

HENS, Ta S:t.—The most convenient way to

 

DICTIONAR Y 01“ E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

set hens is to get a common tea chest or box,
put a portable sloping roof to it, made of a few
pieces of board. Put a hole at one end, like
that for a dog-kennel. In front of this put a
wrre pen or frame made of lath. Provide the
hen with food and water daily, and you need not
be under anxiety about your hen leaving her
eggs ; she cannot get out, and will return on the
eggs, if really broody, in a very short time., In
this way you would have them entirely under
your command.

HENS, T a Prwent Setting—Setting hens
can be cured by putting water in a vessel to the
depth of one inch. putting the hen into it, and
covering the top of the vessel for about twenty-
four hours. The vessel should be deep .enough
to allow the fowl to stand u .

KILL/1V0 AND DRESSING POULTRY.
—As much, if not more, depends on the manner
of killing poultry as in the dressing to have it
look fit for market. Too much caution cannot
be used in this branch of the business. One
mode of killing fowls, (instead of wringing the
necks, which we deprecate,) is to cut their heads
off with a single blow of a sharp ax, hang them
up by the legs and allow them to bleed freely,
and pluck their feathers immediately—while yet
warm. The French mode, which is highly com-
mended——we think far the best, as it causes in-
stant death, without pain or disfigurement, and
is simply done by opening the beak of the fowl,
and with a sharp-pointed and narrow-bladed
knife, make an incision at the back of the roof,
which will divide the vertebrae, and cause imme.
diate death, after which hang the fowl up by the
legs till the bleeding ceases, and pick it while
warm, if you desire the feathers to be removed.
With a little care the skin of the fowl does not
become as torn and ragged as it does in the old-
fashioned way of scalding. Another thing, the
flesh presents a better and more natural appear-
ance when not scalded.

Geyelin says: “ Some breeders cram their
poultry before killing, to make them appear as if
heavy; this is a most injudicious plan, as the
undigested food soon enters into fermentation,
and putrefaction takes place, as is evidenced by
the quantity of greenish, putrid-looking fowls
that are seen in the markets.” Fowls should
always be allowed to remain in their coops at
least twentyofc'mr hours previous to being killed
without food; by so doing the breeder will be a
gainer in the end ; as his poultry will keep long-
er, and present a better appearance in the mar— .
ket; and above all he will show the purchaser
that he is honest, and has not crammed his poul-
try for the purpose of benefiting himself and
swindling others. ‘

LA YING SOFT-SHELLED EGGS—This
results from a deficient supply of lime, and an
excess of soft and animal food. Give with the
feed more plaster, pounded oyster shells, gravel
and rubbish, etc.

LICE—and 'other vermin—on fowl may be
treated by making their roosts perfectly clean
with hot water and soap-suds, and applying af-
terwards spirits of turpentine (to the roosts.)
The whole of the building which they occupy
should be kept scrupulously clean. Another
method is to strew small branches or sprays of
cedar about the henery. This, also, will be
found very effective.

P0 UL T1? Y FOR-MARKE II—When fcwls

 

DOMESTIC ANIMALS—P0 UL T)? Y.

are killed before being sent to market, it is best
not to pack them as soon as they are plucked.
It is best to let poultry hang at least 24 hours
after being picked before packing, so as to allow
the animal heat to entirely pass off. After pick-
ing, wash off the blood-stains with a cloth and
warm water in a careful manner, for if any are
left to harden and become dry, their removal will
prove very troublesome.

ROUR—Symptoms: The symptoms of roup
are at first identical with those of a severe ca-
tarrh; the discharge from the nostrils, however,
soon loses its transparent character, becoming
more or less opaque, and of a very peculiar and
offensive odor; froth appears in the inner corner
of the eyes, and the lids swell; in severe cases
the eyeball is entirely concealed; the nostrils are
closed by the discharge drying around them, and
the eyelids are agglutinated together ; the dis-
eased secretion accumulates within to a great ex-
tent, consequently the sides of the face swell to
an extreme degree, and the bird, unable to see,
or feed itself, suffers from great depression and
sinks rapidly. With respect to the communica-
tion of this disease, my experiments prove that
it is exceedingly contagious. It is frequently
communicated by fowls drinking out of the same
vessel, as the discharge from the nostrils of the
sick bird contaminates the water as it drinks.
No common fowl is worth bothering with after
the eyes swell badly; before that they may be
cured with tolerable ease. The mouth, throat,
eyes and nostrils should be washed out clean, and
sponged with strong chloride of lime water, or,
what is better, Labaraque’s solution, chlorinated
soda, and the whole flock, but the ailing ones
particularly, should have the heartiest diet—iron
in their water, bread and ale, soft feed well pep-
pered, and meat of some kind.

T URKE YS, T 0 REA Iii—First, a quiet hen
is to be sought for as a sitter, and when such an
one is obtained, the next care is to give her a
quiet and rather secluded place for her nest while
sitting, which is of more importance than some
think, who do not give themselves the trouble to
care for such small matters. Bronze turkeys are
large birds, and will cover 15 to 18 eggs with
ease ; while sitting they should not be disturbed,
and should not be taken from the nest after
hatching for at least 24 hours, or longer, if she
sits contented, as the young chicks gain strength
very fast by being kept quiet for a day or two at
first. If the hen is quite gentle, (as she should
be, if possible,) it is best to watch the hatching
process, and if a chick is not likely to come out
strong, the shell may sometimes be broken, and
the chick saved; in taking the hen with her
brood from the nest, she should have a large,
airy coop, where the grass is closely mown off,
where the chicks can bask in the sun at pleasure,
and have quite a run for exercise, and the picking
up of bugs and insects.

The feed should be mostly curds, made from
sour milk heated, and the whey drained off and
seasoned with pepper. After a few days, ac-
cording to their strength and the quietness of
the hen turkey, they should have the range of
the farm. At first a small portion of the day,
after the dew is all off, they should be housed at
night, and not let out till the wet is off the grass
m the morning; then by liberal feeding when-
ever they come near their roosting quarters, they
will be healthy and grow very fast-especially if

 

r17

grasshoppers are plenty, as they are some years
in most sections of the country. When it is the
time for the fattening seasons, they should then
have all the good food they will eat, of a variety
such as corn, buckwheat, boiled potatoes, chop-
ped cabbage, etc., and if kept where they can
get what they will eat when they want it, they
will fatten very fast. l

An experienced farmer gives his experience as '
follows : Let the mother of the new-born brood
choose her own time to leave the nest. Taking
off is always bad policy. As soon as the nest is
left, make a yard, twelve feet square, by setting
boards edgewise. Remove the turkey and her
brood into this little pen, wherein they should
be kept for at least six days—after which they
may be let out in the middle of the day, and per-
mitted the range of an acre; but they must al-
ways be gathered at least an hour before sun-
down into the pens to remain until the dew is
off the next morning, and all the day, if there is
the least appearance of a storm. The time the
mother leaves the nest, wash the naked parts of
her body thoroughly with tobacco juice, to kill
the inevitable lice; and at the same time dust
thoroughly the young with some vermin-destroy—
ing powder. N 0 one thing kills as many young
turkeys as these parasites. As a preventive,
sulphur and snuff, mixed in equal quantities, and
dusted on the nest after the turkey has been sit-
ting two weeks, is recommended; but nothing
should prevent the washing of the mother, or
the dusting of the young, the day the mother
leaves the nest, and 2 days after the young have
left the shell. Young turkeys require but little
food, but they need to be fed as often as once an'
hour for the first week. Coarse-ground Indian
meal, mixed with sour milk curds, and finely
chopped hard-boiled eggs, is the best feed for
the first month. After that, the eggs may be
left out, thefineal ground a little coarser, and the
curds, if you have them, used in larger measure
than at the first. As soon as they can swallow
whole grain, give them that, and then all trouble
in this direction is at an end. Until they are
two months old, they must be driven to some
shelter every night, and never be allowed to re-
main in the fields through a long or heavy rain.
Even when one-quarter grown, they will die
from exhaustion, trying to follow the vigorous
and unreasoning mother, if wet with but a very
heavy dew. Three rules, then, must be ob-
served, if those who attempt to raise turkeys
would secure success: First—Be sure to free
both old and young from lice immediately upon
the old ones leaving the nest. Second—Feed
frequently at the beginning with strengthening
food. Third—Never let the young turkeys get
wet, either with dew or rain, until their feathers
afiord their bodies, if not complete, at least par-
tial protection.

T URK E Y5, C/zarmal for. —A recent exper-
iment has been tried in feeding charcoal for fat-
tening turkeys. Two lots of four each were
treated alike, except for one lot finely pulverized
coal was mixed with mashed potatoes and meal,
on which they were fed, and broken pieces of
coal also plentifully supplied. The difference in
weight was one and a half pounds each in favor
of the fowls supplied with coal, and the flesh was
superior in tenderness and flavor. This sugges-
tion is well worth a fair trial from those engaged
in turkey-raising.

118

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

FARM, ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRY.

ACCOUNTS, KEEPING.—Keeping of ac.
counts is almost an absolute necessity to a farm-
er’s success. If we should be asked what is the

reat hindrance to the advancement of ordinary
armers, we shouldlreply, the want of some sys-
tematic plan in their labors, especially the want
of some systematic mode of keeping their farm
accounts. If we ask them the cost of raising
loo bushels of corn, or making 100 lbs. of ork,
not one in a thousand can give an answer based
on actual figures. They guesr a bushel of corn
costs so much, but their guessing is often wide
of the truth. The great ma‘ority of farmers
cannot tell the net income 0 their farms, and
hardly know whether they are progressing,
standing still, or retrograding. If a merchant
or‘a manufacturer should conduct his business
in this shiftless way, we should expect him to
fail, and the reason that farmers do not more fre-
quentl;v fail is that their business is comparatively
limite . They live mainly within themselves.
The farm supports the family, and the family
take care of the farm. They would find their
interest in farming as well as their skill and prof-
its greatly to increase if they would adopt some
mode of ascertaining how much this and that
cro costs, and cultivate such crops and rear
suc animals as are found by actual calculation
to pay the best. How are we to decide what
branches of farming are the most profitable un-
less the figures of the farm account show us P
Shall we guess whether it is better to make but-
ter or cheese, or sell our milk, or shall we know
definitely about these points P The question is
sometimes mooted whether Eastern farmers had
better raise their own corn or buy it of their Il—
linois neighbors. How can this question be de-
cided, unless we know how much it costs to raise
a bushel of corn ?

Whoever makes accurate experiments and
keeps accurate accounts not only benefits himself
but the public. We know there are many cir-
cumstances to be considered in estimating the
cost of raising crops and feeding stock; and with
the greatest accuracy of observation, the results
of farm experiments are often only approxima-
tions to the truth, but whoever labors» even for
these approximations is a public benefactor.
The general principles of practical agriculture
can never be established till we have more of
these accurate experiments on which to base
them.

Many seem to suppose that it is a great bur-
den to write down in the evening the results of
the day. They can handle a crowbar or a plow
for ten hours, but ten minutes’ work with a pen
is an Herculean labor. This is a mere imagi-
nary lion in the way of keeping accounts. It
only wants resolution to undertake the work, and
a little practice will make it .easy. Possibly the
task maybe devolved on some young member of
the family, whose fingers are not unused to the
pen or stiffened by hard work. A general farm
account should be kept, in which the farm is
charged with all its expenses and credited with
all its receipts. Besides this general farm ac-

 

count, a more minute record should be kept of
each crop, charging with all the labor, manure,
seed, etc., bestowed upon it, and crediting it
with all the returns, whether sold or used in the
family. Such a book will prove a treasure of
wisdom to every farmer who keeps it.

APPLE- TREE BORER.———To remove and
destroy this pest of the orchard, in the spring,
just before vegetation starts, level the ground,
and pack it firmly around the root of the tree, in"
a circle of about two feet in diameter, according
to the size of the tree. Take unleached ashes
and air-slaked lime in equal parts, well mixed,
and apply to the circle thus made, covering the
ground all over two or three inches in depth.
Then take strong soap suds, or, what is better,
a solution of half a pound of sal soda to one
gallon of water, and wash the entire trunk and
the base of the limbs thoroughly. Repeat this
operation in the fall of the year, just before
freezing weather, covering the ground with the
mixture of ashes and lime, and washin the
trunk and base of the branches with the so ution
of $211 soda. If the borers have already made an
entrance into the tree, the only way to get rid of
them is to dig them out by the use of a fine, an-
nealed wire, avoiding as much as possible the
cutting away of the bark in the necessary prep-
aration for entering the holes.

APPLE TREES, To Keep Rabbit: from
Barking—1. Take any quantity of sweet milk
you may desire, and add to it soot from the stove
pipe or chimney, where wood has been used, un-
til it is a thin paint. Take a warm, dry day to
wash your trees, so it will get dry before a rain.
One thorough washing will generally be found
to be sufficient—2. Thoroughly rub the trunks
with the dead body of a rabbit.

APPLES, To Color W/n'le Growing—A
bright red color can be imparted to growing ap-
ples by the application of the oxyd of iron to
the soil about the roots of the trees. Anvil dust
and Cinders, etc., will answer the purpose.

APPLE TREES, Treatment of.—In the au-
tumn, as soon as the leaves have fallen, every
tree should be carefully and freely pruned; this
will open a passage to the sun and air, and will
contribute to health in the future season. In ad-
dition to this, brush off the moss and cut off the
cankered parts, and unless the orchard is plowed,
the soil should be opened at the roots. 7

APPLE TREES, (0H,) T a Renovate.—
Take fresh-made lime from the kiln, slake it well
with water and well dress the tree with a brush,
and the insects and moss will be completely de.
stroyed, the outer 'rind will fall off, and a new,
smooth, clear, healthy one will be formed, and
the tree will assume a most healthy appearance
and produce the finest fruit.

APPLE TREES, Lice on.—The apple—bark
louse is most common on unhealthful trees—~
trees that are grown in grass and are most likely
to be infected with them. It is hurtful to trees
and should be exterminated. A good way to do
this is first to feed the trees liberally ,with ma
nure and ashes. Ashes alone, if you have no

 

FARM, ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRY.

119

 

manure to spare, placed about the roots—not in
contact with the body—will help. Dig up the
grass about the tree. In the spring take a hoe
and give the bark a good scraping; then wash
the tree with strong soap-suds. This should be
done early and the washing repeated once or
twice before the trees blossom.

APPLE- TREE SUCKERS.—Many other-
wise good orchards are allowed to become de-
faced, as well as seriously injured, by allowing a
profusion of suckers to grow at the base of the
trunks. Attempts are sometimes made to get
rid of them by cutting them off down to the sur-
face of the ground, and leaving considerable

ortions below in the form of short stumps.
ese sprout again, and they soon become quite
as bad as ever. A better way is to wait until
they are in leaf, at which time they are loosened
more readily, and taking each separately in the
hands, place a thick boot upon it near the tree,
and they are quickly separated. If done at that
time they will not be likely to sprout again.

APPLE TREES; To Plant—The trees, in
all cases, should be set without bending or di-
verting them from their natural direction, and
the more room is all the better. The subsoil
or dead earth should be removed from the bot-
tom at least a foot deep in shallow soils, and its
place supplied with good surface soil or compost.
A compost of well rotted manure and meadow
mud is admirable for this purpose, and for filling
the hole when the tree is set. Care should be
taken not to set too deep. The roots need the
influence of the atmosphere, of light and heat,
as well as of manures and rains, and languish
if buried below this influence. It is a safe rule
to set no deeper than the trees stood in the nur-
sery, and this can easily be determined by their
appearance at the base. Every fibre should be
extended in its proper direction, level and not
dipping, and carefully surrounded with compost.
No vacant places or cavities should be lelt in cov-
ering the roots, nor injury done to them by the
hand or spade. A tree should not be taken from
a soil much richer than that to which it is trans-
ferred.

ARTICHOR'E, YERUSALEM—Boussin-
gault says, in his “ Rural Economy :” There are
few plants more hardy and so little nice about
soil as the Jerusalem artichoke; it succeeds ev-
erywhere, with the single condition that the soil
be not wet. The tubers are planted exactly as
potatoes, and nearly at the same time; but this
Is a process that is performed but rarely, inas-
much as the cultivation of the helianthus is
incessant, being carried on for years in the same

Iplace, and after harvest, in spite of every dispo-

I

sition to take up all the tubers, enough constantly
escape detection to stock the land for the follow-
ing year, so that the surface appears literally
covered with the young plants on the return of
spring, and it is necessary to thin them by hoe-
ing. The impossibility of taking away the whole
of the tubers, and their power of resisting the
hardest frosts of winter, is an obstacle almost in-
surmountable to the introduction of this plant, as
one element of a regular rotation. Ex erience
more and more confirms the propriety 0 setting
aside a patch of land for the growth of this pro-
ductive and very valuable root. Of all the vari-
ousaplants that engage the husbandman, the Je-
rus em artichoke is that which produces the
most at the least expense of manure and manual

 

labor. He then directs the reader’s attention to
an example where the artichoke had been pro-
duced for thirty-three successive years with suc-
cess, while they had received no care or manure
for a long time. Those who wish to try it must
plant it as early as the condition of the soil will
allow. The land after plowing is marked out
with furrows 3 feet a art, and the small tubers
are dropped about I inches apart, and covered
3 inches deep. Go over the field in a week or
two with a light barrow to '11 weeds, and culti-
vate between the rows unti the plants get large
enough to render it unnecessary. It grows ver
readily in dry soil. Those who make trial of it
should take care that the plant does not become
established as a weed.

ASPARA GUS, T o Cultivate.—To raise the
asparagus plant, first select a piece of ground
which is light, but not too much so; have it har-
rowed finely and plowed deeply; then draw fur-
rows through it far enough apart to admit of a
hoe-barrow or cultivator; then spread stable ma-
nure in the rows, or better still apply the manure
broad-cast and plow it in; then draw the furrows
afore-mentioned, taking care to draw them very
shallow; then take the seed and sow it very
thinly in the rows; after you have finished sow-
ing, cover lightly with a wooden rake. When
the plants begin to show themselves be sure to
keep them free from weeds and grass, as much
depends on the healthiness and size of the
plants. I will give two methods of planting
when they are planted for their final culture.
Select a dry, light piece of ground, well exposed
to. the sun, as by such a course it will sprout
earlier, and thus augment considerably the prof-
its. Have it manured heavily with good barn—
yard or stable manure; then have the ground
plowed, following immediately with the sub-soil-
er, and make it as fine as possible; then draw
furrows three feet apart, and six or eight inches
deep, the entire length of the bed. March or
April, according to the season, is the time to set
out asparagus plants. They should be only one
year from the seed, as this is sufficient if properly
cared for and kept clean while growing. After
having prepared the giound as abovementioned,
take the plants from the seed bed, being careful
to expose them as little as possible. then take
the plants to the ground allotted to them; place
the plants, or more properly called roots, eight
or ten inches apart in the row, spreading the
roots as much as possible, taking care to have
the crown of the plant only about two inches be.
low the surface ; when they are all placed in the
right position, draw the ground over the crowns
with the back of a wooden rake to the required
depth. Permit the crop the first two cars to
run up to stalks, keeping the ground as ree from
weeds as possible. The third year from planting
is the time to gather the first crop for market.
Begin to cut as soon as the shoots are fit, and
continue cutting until the first of June or there-
abouts, and then leave the rest to encourage the
formation of new roots. The shoots are tied up
in bundles of 25 to 30 stalks, and when mark-
eted early and in good condition bring remune-
rative prices.

The other mode of planting is to dig trenches
about two feet deep, and three feet apart, the
length of the field, taking care to keep the sub-
soil from the good manure, and throw about six
inches of it in the trench, ground; then mix the

120

the lants. The following spring the trenches
are lled up, and every subsequent spring a
heavy coat of manure is plowed into the aspar-
agus bed. Care should be taken in cutting the
shoots not to cut deep enough to injure the
roots, as the future productiveness of the plan-
tation depends partly in observing the above.

AMVOTTO, C/wice o/I—Annotto should be
chosen of a good flame color, brighter in the
middle than on the outside. It should feel soft
and smooth, and have a good consistence. It
should ossess a strong smell.

AN S [N GREENHOUSES, To Destroy.
—Place some arsenic, mixed with sugar and wa-
ter, in a saucer, which cover with a slate, leav-
ing room for the insects to pass between the
slate and the saucer. A stone ought to be set
on the slate to prevent any other creature but the
ants from getting access to the poison. Lime
water, poured into the nests, will also destroy
them.

BANKS, (Sleep,) To Cover wit/i GRASS.—
For each square rod to be planted, take half a
pound of lawn grass seed, and mix it intimately
and thoroughly with about six cubic feet of good
dry garden earth and loam. This is placed in a
tub, and to it liquid manure, diluted with about
two-thirds of water, is added, and well stirred
in, so as to bring the whole to the consistency of
mortar. The slope is to be cleaned off and then
made perfectly smooth, and then well watered,
after which the paste just mentioned is to be ap-
plied with a trowel, and made as even and as
thin as possible. Should it crack by exposure
to the air, it is to be again watered and smoothed
up, day by day, until the grass makes its appear-
ance, which will be in eight to fourteen days, and
the whole declivity will soon be covered by a
close carpet of green.

BARLE Y, To Culliz/ale.—-Our climate is not
as favorable for barley as for oats and wheat.
We cannot obtain a good crop unless the soil is
dry, clean and rich. It seldom does well on a
recently inverted sod. Its best place in the ro-
tation is after a highly manured and thoroughly
cultivated corn cr0p. The best crops are ob-
tained on a rather heavy calcareous loam, pro-
vided it has been thoroughly pulverized during
the preceding summer and autumn. But as this
is seldom the case, the soils that usually give the
best medium crops are those of a lighter and
warmer character—or sandy loams.

Barley should either be sown very earl , or
rather late—say the moment the ground is t to
work in the spring, or not until after the heavy
spring rains are over. Much depends on the
season. If there has been heavy rains soon af-
ter the barley is sown, and then before the plants
cover the ground, dry weather sets in, the sur-
face of the soil becomes baked, and the crop suf-
fers. An early sown crop would suffer less, be-
cause it would have got a good start before the
drouth set in. A crop sown immediately after
the spring rains, as soon as the land is in condi-
tion to work, commences to grow rapidly at the
very first, and often does better than a crop that
is sown two weeks earlier—but not as well as a
crop sown a month earlier. If the soil is rich
and has been plowed the fall previous, sow as
early as it will work without clogging.

When barley is grown to sell, the six-rowed,
or what is usually called the four-rowed (though

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

b
ground with considerable sub-soil, and then set

there is no such thing as a four-rowed barley.)
15 the most profitable—because it brings from
ten to fifteen cents a bushel more than the two-
rowed. But when barley is grown to feed out
on the farm, the two-rowed is altogether the best
—-espec1ally on strong, rich land. It weighs a
great deal more per bushel, and if the soil is
rich enough, it will yield more per acre. It has
another advantage-that of being later than the
four-rowed, which ripens at the same time as
wheat, and we have wheat and barley harvest on
us at once. With the two-rowed, we can get
through with the wheat by the time the barley is
ready.

It is usual to sow from 2 to 2% bushels per
acre. If the land is very rich and it is sown
early and drilled in, less seed is required. The
yield varies more than that of almost any other
crop, depending somewhat on the season, but
much more on the condition and previous cul-
ture of the soil.

BARLE Y, To ffarwst.—VVhen the straw is
long enough, the best way to harvest barley is
to bind it up the same as wheat. It requires to
be cut just at the right time. If cut too early,
the grain shrivels up, and if it is allowed to

,stand a few days too long, it “ crinkles down,”

and the heads drop off in reaping and are lost.
We know of no better test than to squeeze the
grain between the thumb and finger, and if there
is the least appearance of milk, the crop should
be allowed to stand longer. The real difficulty,
however, is in the uneven ripeness of the crop.
Some portions will be dead ripe, while others
are still green, and it requires considerable expe.
rience and a sound judgment to decide whether
we shall lose most by cutting before it is all ripe,
or by letting a portion of it get so ripe that there
is danger of the heads falling off. Much de-
pends on the weather. In this as in many other
farming operations we must calculate our chances
—and not be discouraged if we sometimes miss
the mark. When barley is clean and the weath-
er favorable, there is perhaps no better-oer-
tainly no cheaper—way of curing it, than to al-
low it to remain in the gavels as thrown from the
platform of the reaper. They may be turned or
stirred to facilitate the drying, but otherwise may
remain as left by the reaper until ready to draw
in. By moving one ortwo swaths to make room
for the team, two men with barley forks can pick
up the gavels of three or four swaths on each
side of the wagon, and place them on the load.
In this way scarcely any of the barley will be
scattered on the land.

But if there are weeds or grass in the barley,
or the weather is threatening, it will be neces-
sary to turn the gavels, and towards night put
them into small cocks, which will have to be
turned or opened the next day and recocked in
the evening again, if not sufficiently cured to
draw in. It should be borne in mind that bar-
ley is very frequently stained in the stack or the
mow, from being drawn in too soon, or with the
dew on it. Barley should be either thrashed as
drawn from the field, or not until it has done
“ sweating” in the stack or mow. If the form-
er, it will be necessary to watch the grain in the
bin and turn it occasionally, or it will heat and
become discolored. The rakings should be kept
separate, as the grain is frequently stained, and
if mixed with the rest may reduce the price of
the whole several cents per bushel.

FARM ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRY.

BEANS, To Cultivate.—These grow best in
warm, rich, mellow soil. The bush beans are
planted in drills, about two inches deep, and two
inches apart in the row. The drills may be from
one foot to eighteen inches apart. When the
plants are three or four inches high, the earth
should be drawn up to the stems, and just be-
fore they begin to blossom they should be again
earthed up with loose, mellow soil. They re-

uire to be frequently hoed while growing, that

e ground may be kept loose and free from all
weeds.

Pole or running beans are planted in hills, two
by three feet apart, five or six beans to the hill,
and covered abouta couple of inches deep. It
is of no use to plant until the soil has become
warm. These beans need the support of a pole
or rod, thrust deep enough into the ground to
sustain the weight of the vines, usually about
eighteen inches, and standing eight or nine feet
high. Three healthy plants will be enough to
grow in each hill.

BEANS, LlMA.—-The principal point in the
successful culture of the Lima bean is to get the
seed well started. The best way of doing this
is to plant in a hill of light earth, made so by
sifting the soil, if it can be had in no other way.
A shovelful of well-rotted manure should go into
each hill. Then mix sand and muck, and after

lacing each seed bean with the germ downward
in the hill, sift the covering over it through a
willow sieve. Corn-planting time is the right
time to plant Lima beans. The after-cultivation
is the same as for the common pole bean.

BEAM CASTOR-OlL.—The best land for
the growth of the castor-oil bean is a light sandy
loam soil, with a substratum of clay. First,
break up the ground well as for corn, and then
lay off the rows six feet apart. Between every
seventh row leave an interval of six feet, to ad-
mit the passage of a horse and slide when the
beans are being gathered, as hereafter explained.
Before planting, put the seed in very warm (not
boiling) water, and let them soak all night.
Drop six or seven seed in each hill, the hills six
feet apart each way. Thin out to two plants af-
ter the plants have got too large for the cut-
worm, which is sometimes quite destructive.
At this stage, if the plants are vigorous and
healthy, reduce to one plant, leaving two only
where the plants look delicate. Keep the crop
clean, first with the plow, then with the cultiva-
tor, and now and then drawing a little dirt
around with the hoe. When the plants are some
two feet high no more- work need be done, un-
less, after a long spell of rain, you may loosen
the earth with your cultivator. After the ripen-
ing of the beans, which will be in July or Au-
gust, take your horse, and slide along the rows
left for that purpose, and with a pair of shears
clip off the pod—bearing spikes as soon as the

ods begin to turn of a brown or chocolate color.
hey must be promptly cut at this stage, or the
beans will pop from the pod and be lost.

Have ready a shed with a plank floor, or a
piece of ground, well cleaned, beaten and rolled,
like an old-time threshing floor, twenty or thirty
feet square, well exposed to the sun, on which
throw your spikes, and turn them over occa-
sionally until all the beans drop out. Then
scrape away the husks, gather the beans, and go
into the field for a new supply, as they will con-
tinue to bear and mature until frost. Do not al-

 

low the beans, when drying, to get wet. Hence
an open shed is best. I you have no shed,
when the weather is threatening, rake into a
heap, and cover with a tarpaulin or boards.
They should be well fanned and winnowed of
chaff before being sacked for market. From 15
to 25 bushels er acre is the average yield.

BEECH U T S, User (afi—Beechnut oil is
most valuable for culinary and lighting purposes.
The oil is obtained from the beechnuts by the
same means as from castor beans and from cot-
ton seed, the crushed material being subjected
to the action of heavy presses. The nuts yield
16 per cent. of their weight of oil, or about a
gallon of oil to the bushel. In England, as long
ago as the time of Queen Anne, a company was
formed to carry on the manufacture of beechnut
oil, and afterward, in the reign of George I., an
application was made for a patent for making
butter from beechnuts. In France, and in some
parts of Germany, the inhabitants use beechnut
oil in place of butter, and sometimes grind the
nuts into flour, from which a nutritious but rath—
er indigestible bread is made. Roasted beech-
nuts are among the many substitutes in vogue
for coffee.

BLA CKBERR Y.-——For the cultivated black-
berry the soil should be rich, dry and mellow.
Barn-yard manure and bone-dust are its best
fertilizers; it is a good plan to mix them with
half-rotten straw, or some such thing. They
should be planted three feet apart in the rows,
and the rows should be six feet asunder.

BLIGHT 1N FRUIT TREES, To Curt.—
A smothering straw fire should be made early in
October, in calm weather, under each tree, and
kept up during an hour or more. This done,
scrape the moss and other impurities from the
trunk, and from every obscure hole and corner ;
set your ladders to the branches, carefully clean-
ing them in the same way, taking from the re-
maining leaves every web or nidus of insects.
If need be, wash the trunk, and all the larger
wood, with a solution of lime and dung. Last
of all, it is necessary to destroy the insects and
eggs which may have dropped upon the ground,
and it may be useful to loosen the soil in the cir-
cumference. In the spring, or early blighting
season, apply your ladders, make a careful sur-
vey of every branch, and act accordingly; repeat
this monthly, picking off all blights by hand, and
using the water engine, where ablution may be
necessary. To those who have fruit, or the
market profit thereof, every orchard or garden,
little or great, will amply repay such trouble and
expense.

BO YS, How to Attach to FAR/II LIFE.—
One of the surest methods of attaching a boy to
the farm is to let him have something upon it for
his own. Give him a small plot of ground to
cultivate, allowing him the proceeds for his own
use. 'Let him have his steers to break, or his
sheep to care for. The ownership of even a
fruit tree, planted, pruned, and brought to bear~
ing by his own hands, will inspire him with an
interest that no mere reward or wages can give.
In addition to the cultivation of a taste for farm
life which such a course will cultivate, the prac-
tical knowledge gained by the boy will be of the
highest value. Being interested, he will be
more observant, and will thoroughly learn what-
ever is necessary for his success. Do not, when
the boy is in a. position to realize from the sale

122

of his produce or animals, (as many farmers
very wrongly do,) take the money that is rightly
his—the result of his care, labor and anxiety;
but otherwise allow him to do just as his tastes
and plans suggest. Another and equally im-
portant advantage will be the accustoming him
early to feel responsibility. Many young men,
though well acquainted with all the manual op-
erations of the farm, fail utterly when intrusted
with the management of an estate, for want of
experience in planning for themselves. It is a
great deal better that responsibility should be
gradually assumed, than that a young man should
be first thrown upon himself on attaining his
majority.

BOULDERS AND ROCKS, (Big,) To Re-
moan—It is the opinion of some farmers that it
is better to burn than to bury the granite rocks
»of which one may desire to relieve his fields.
Make a slow fire across the rock in the direction
in which you wish it to break; keep it up for
one hour, more or less. When the rock begins
to heat, thump on it with the point of abar
where it is hot, and if it has started a scale, re-
move it, and keep up your fire as before. The
heat will swell the rock near the fire, and if the
rock is sound will crack it where it is not hot.
One man will break more hard rocks with fire in
that way than a half dozen with drills and pow-
der. \Vood does not cost more than powder.
You need not throw on water, as that will not
do the least good.

BUGS, To Dewey—The striped bug on cu-
cumbers and melons may be destroyed as fol-
lows: I. By a strong solution of hen-house ma-
nure—say I peek of the manure to 1% gals. of
water; let it stand 24 hours, and sprinkle the
plants freely with it after sunset.—2. By sifting
charcoal dust over the plants; if repeated 3 or 4
times the plants will be entirely freed from the
annoyance—3. Plant a few kernels of buck-
wheat in each hill of cucumbers or melons, and
striped bugs will not trouble the vines.

BUTTER, Management of flu: flfilk—The
advantage gained during the hot season by the
rapid and complete cooling of milk as soon as it
comes from the cow, can hardly be over-esti-
mated, as recent experiments show that the milk
thus cooled will keep sweet much longer, and
yield its cream more readily and abundantly;
and, as all experience has proven that the quan-
tity of butter made, depends greatly upon keep-
ing the milk in such a state as to secure all the
cream. A saving of labor is effected by this
process, as the milk, when cooled to the required
temperature, (60,) may be set in deeper vessels,
thus diminishing greatly the number of vessels
required, and, consequently, the labor of clean-
sing them. The milk may be cooled by setting
some large pails into a trough or box partly filled
with very cold water, and pouring the milk into
these pails as fast as it is drawn from the "cows,
allowing it to stand until of the required tem-
p‘erature, and, if necessary, renewing the water.
. he pails used in milking should be made of tin
"—never of wood. It is very difficult—almost
impossible—to cleanse wooden pails so perfectly
that they will not impart some degree of acidity
to the milk, though it may be an insensible de-
gree. T 12: Dairy Room—Much of the success
of butter-making depends upon the fitness of the

laceor room where the dairy is kept, and upon
Its condition as to cleanliness and freedom from

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

taints and odors of every description. If a cel-
lar is used, it should be a dry one, and perfectly
clean to the remotest corners, having no hidden
remnants of decayed vegetables or fruit, or an -
thing which could possibly offend the most de i.
cate olfactories. If a room in the dwelling-
house is used, or a milk-house, built separately,
which is, perhaps, better, it should not be situ-
ated near a hog-pen, stable, or anything of the
kind, nor should anything likely to impart its
odor to the milk—as smoked ham, codfish, po-
tatoes, onions, etc.——be allowed a place in the
room. Nothing will receive a taint more easily
than milk or cream ; and all bad odors absorbed
by the milk are certain to be concentrated in the
butter, they not having the accommodating dis.
position to run off with the buttermilk. Tem-
perature.—The milk, whether in a cellar or in a
room above ground, should be kept cool in the
summer, never being allowed to reach a temper.
ature above 60°, though it may fall below that
without detriment. Milk should be set upon
racks, rather than shelves, so that the air may
circulate freely under it, as well as over and
around it. Racks are made in various ways;
the most convenient we know of is constructed
as follows: Take a 6x6 pine post, of a length
suited to the height of the room, place it upright
upon a pivot so that it will revolve, and nail slats
of half-inch stuff to each side of the post, at such
intervals as will give room for the pans or other
vessels used. Two such slats nailed to opposite
sides of the post, will support two pans of milk,
one on each side of the post. The rotary ar-
rangement allows one to stand in the same place
to skim a whole rack full of milk. If pans are
used, the seamless ones are best—but deeper
vessels, either of tin or earthenware, are perhaps
preferable, provided the milk is cooled before
being set. I/Var/zz’ng t/ze Utensz'1:.—The great-
est care is requisite in cleaning these vessels, of
whatever material and form, as also of all the
other utensils employed in butter-making. This
is a matter of much greater importance than
many suppose, as the smallest neglect in regard
to it is sure to tell upon the cream and butter.
The pans and pails should be washed thorough-
ly, in two waters, each time being made as clean
as possible with the water used; they should
then be scalded thoroughly with boiling water.
The churn, butter-bowl and ladle, or butter-
worker, if one is used, should be washed and
scalded with equal care, and all should be care-
fully wiped and dried, unless some arrangement
is made for drying in the sun, which will do very
well for tin and earthenware, and save the labor
of wiping. In summer it will be necessary to
see that all utensils are cooled perfectly before
using them. Skimming.—The milk should be
skimmed as soon as all the cream has risen, and
before the milk has thickened. At the time the
cream should be removed it will have a bright,
healthy appearance, a rich, uniform, yellow col-
or,-and such an adherency of particles as will en-
able one, sometimes, to remove the entire cream
at one dip of the skimmer. If allowed to stand
too long without skimming, both the quantityand
quality of the cream will be seriously affected.
The surface will become discolored, knobby,
and blotched, while underneath the cream is ra —
idly yielding to the corrosive tendency of t e
acid In the milk. Yet, in order to make the
largest quantity of butter, care must be taken

 

FARM ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRY.

:23

 

not to remove the cream too soon. The milk
should all be skimmed at the same age, provided
it has had the same conditions as regards tem-
perature, etc.; it follows, then, that some milk
should be skimmed every night and morning.

BU T 7 ER, III/inter Treatment in Making.—
—It will be found that in winter milk and cream
require somewhat different management. The
effort must now be to keep the milk warm rather
than to keep it cool ; and a failure in this res ect
will very materially affect the quality of the ut-
ter. If the milk is very much too cold, it will
have to stand so long for the cream to rise that
it will become bitter, often long before it turns
sour, and the quality of bitterness will be still
more apparent in the butter. To prevent this
the milk should be kept at a temperature of 60°
if possible; if not, the milk may be scalded as
soon as strained, and the cream will then have a
fair start before the milk has parted with this
extra heat, unless the place where it is kept is
very cold. If scalding is not found suflicient,
two or three spoonfuls of sour milk (which has
soured quickly and is not bitter) may be added
to each pan of milk when it is set away. This
will help to sour the milk and cause the cream
to rise quicker, thus making it less liable to be-
come bitter. It may also help to prevent bitter-
ness to salt the cows often, and see that they do
not eat decayed vegetables, or any substances
which may impart a bad taste to the milk. The
cream should be kept at about the same temper-
ature, (60°,) and should be well stirred as often
as new is added. It should not be kept too long
before churning, never more than a week—four
or five days is better.

B U TT ER, C/mming Cream fin—The cream
should be churned at a temperature of 62° or
63°.‘ A great deal of experience may enable one
to guess at this temperature with tolerable clev-
erness, but it is better to use a thermometer and
be sure. This temperature will be increased du-
ring the process of churning to 68°, or there-
abouts, when the butter will come. If it should
be hard and granular, refusing to come together
well, throw in a little warm water, churning all
the while, and the butter will soon be gathered
and ready to take up.

Sweet cream should never be mixed with sour
cream just before churning, as sweet cream is
much longer coming, and hence likely to lose
itself in the buttermilk. To salt the cows once
a week is generally believed to facilitate the pro-
cess of churning. In case they have not been
thus salted, some put alittle salt into the cream
before churning; but we think that in most in-
stances where butter is very long coming, it is
owing to the temperature of the cream. It may
be so cold as to require churning all day to bring
the butter; 3. tax upon one’s patience and one’s
strength, if performed by hand, equal to the cost
of a dozen thermometers. Rapid churning must
be avoided, for it not only affects the quality,
but lessens the quantity. Churning should oc-
cupy from one-half to three-quarters of an hour
in its operation.

BUTTER, COLORING—As a rule, it is
absolutely essential in the winter to color butter,
in order to make it marketable, or at all attract-
ive as an article of table use at home. There
may be a possible exception to this rule, in cases
where cows .are fed largely upon yellow corn.
meal, pumpkins, carrots, etc., but this does not

 

lessen the importance of the rule. Of the vari-
ous substances used in coloring butter, we think
that carrots (of the deep yellow variety) give the
most natural color and the most agreeable flavor.
Annotto, however, is principally used, and with
most satisfactory results. Some of the most cel-
ebrated butter-makers in the country color their
butter with pure annotto, giving it a rich, deep
orange color. If carrots are used, take two large
sized ones, clean them thoroughly, and then with
a knife scrape off the yellow exterior, leaving the
white pith ; soak the yellow part in boiling milk
for ten or fifteen minutes. Strain boiling hot
into the cream ; this gives the cream the desired
temperature, colors it nicely, and adds to the
sweetness of the butter. »

BUTTER, Improved Coloring jinn—An im-
proved coloring matter for butter—carotine—has
been successfully employed by Dr. Quesneville
as a substitute for annotto, to which it is in ev-
ery respect superior, although somewhat more
expensive. This carotine is the representative
in carrot of alizarine in madder, arfid is obtained
b slicin , dr in , and grinding t e roots to a
pgwder, gexhaiyistigng the powder with sulphide of
carbon, and, having removed the solvent, rapidly
crystallizing out the carotine from the extract.

BUTTER, Sailing and Working—While
salt is not to be undervalued as a preservin
agent, it must be remembered that too much 0
it destroys or overpowers the fine flavor and del-
icate aroma of the best butter. Be careful to
preserve all the sweetness of the fresh butter,
salting just enough to remove its insipidity. It
is important to use the best salt. Pure salt is
perfectly white and destitute of odor. It will
dissolve in cold water without leaving any sedi-
ment, or throwing any scum to the surface, and
the brine will be as pure as clean water, and en-
tirely free from any bitter taste. The butter-
milk should be nearly all worked out and the
butter well washed before salting. Washing
may abstract somewhat from the flavor of the
butter, but it is, nevertheless, a necessity, if the
butter is expected to keep long, as it completely
removes the cream and casein of the buttermilk,
3 part of which might otherwise remain in the
butter.

Butter should stand but a short time after it is
salted, before it is worked enough to remove all
the water, when it may be resalted if necessary;
there should be sufficient salt left in the butter
at this time to make a strong brine of the little
water that remains. It may then stand untii the
next day, when it should be worked and packed.
On no account should butter be allowed to stand
long before working, as it is apt to become very
streaked, often so much so as to necessitate its
being worked over in order to restore a uniform
color. Besides, if neglected too long at this pe-
riod, a tendency to rancidity will be rapidly de-
veloped.

We realize the difliculty of giving explicit di-
rections for the second and last working of the
butter—its final preparation for packing. If not
worked enough, every one knows that the but-
ter will soon spoil; if worked too much, it is
spoiled already; though the danger of its being
overworked is less. A great deal of judgment
and discretion, and somewhat of ex erience, are
requisite in order to determine w en it has
been worked just enough; the virtue of, stop-
ping, in this, as in many other cases, being sec-

:24

D! CT! 01VA R Y 01’ E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

and only to that of doing. There are some sug-
gestions, however, which may prove valuable,
articularly to those having little experience. I.
e butter should not be too warm when it is
worked, nor should it be so cold as to make its
working difficult. Immerse the ladle for a few
minutes in boiling water, and cool perfectly in
cold water; then, if the butter in the bowl is
warm enough to admit of putting the ladle en-
tirely through the whole mass without difficulty,
and dividing it up without crumbling, and still
hard enough to cut clean and smooth, not the
slightest particle adhering to the ladle, then it is
in the right condition to work. 2. It should be
worked with careful and gentle, yet telling pres-
sure, and not by a series of indiscriminate stir-
rings and mashings and grindings against the
sides of the bowl. The butter is composed of
minute globules, which are crushed by this care-
less handling, thus rendering the butter greasy
and sticky, whereas it should retain its clean,
solid individuality, up to the time of packing,
always working clear from the bowl, and never
sticking, in the least, to the ladle. 3. The but-
ter should not be worked until it is perfectly
dry. When ready to pack it should have a very
slight moisture about it, a sort of insensible re-
mains of the clear brine which has been working
off, and at the last enough, so that when a trier
is thrust into it, a drop or two of brine will ooze
out around it, and the trier be slightly wet, as if
by a light dew. Overworking destroys all the
beautiful consistency of the butter, and makes it
dry and sticky; greasy in summer and tallowy
in winter ; gives it a dull appearance, and a ten-
denc to become rancid.

. B {I T T ER, Patkingand Marketing—Butter
should be packed solid, leaving no interstices for
air, and should completely fill the firkin, tub, or

ail, as the case may be, leaving a flat surface.

t is common to put a cloth over the top, and a
layer of salt on the cloth. Some think it better
to wet the salt, making a brine. The cover
should then fit tightly, leaving no room for air
between it and the butter. Some butter, also,
goes into market in the form of rolls, some pine-
a ple, and other fancy forms for the table, etc.

very person should be guided by circumstances
in his choice of styles for putting up butter, al-
ways being careful to give it a neat and attract.
ive appearance. If living at a distance from
market, and the dealers at his market-place buy
for New York, he should pack in firkins or in
tubs, so that the butter can be safely kept the
entire season through, and the whole lot dis-
posed of at once in the fall. If at a convenient
distance from New York, fresh tubs or pails
may be sent in at intervals, all through the sea-
son, or the whole kept through as he chooses.
Or if in the vicinity of any city, good chances
offer in the way of supplying hotels, restaurants,
etc., the butter should be put up in a style to
suit the customers. Some, who are hundreds
of miles away, make shipments of butter to
New York on their own account, instead of sell-
ing to buyers at home, in which case, if their
butter is really superior, they will not be long in
making a reputation, and will soon be able to
secure a high price. Some few have a stamp of
their own, and labor assiduously to establish a
value for it as a trade—mark. It is said that the
best butter-maker in the vicinity of Philadelphia
(who never sells for less than a dollar a pound),

 

uses a stamp inherited from his father, and that
“not a pound of inferior butter ever went to
market with that stamp upon it.” If you would
attain to a goodly fame, then, as a butter-maker,
and reap a rich reward for your pains, attend
carefully to the minutest details in making, and
never sell any but good butter, put up in neat
packages; never allow your “trade-mark” to
lose its value.

BU T T ER (Rancid) To Eastern—Rancid
butter may be restored by melting it in a water-
bath with some fresh burnt and coarsely pow-
dered animal charcoal, (which has been thor-
oughly freed from dust by sifting,) and strain it
through clean flannel. A better and less trouble-
some method is to well wash the butter, first
with good new milk, and next with cold spring
water. Butyric acid, on the presence of which
rancidity depends, is freely, soluble in fresh
milk.

BUTTER, T o Preserve Fresh—Melt it in a
well glazed earthen pan, set in a water-bath at a
heat not exceeding 180° Fahr., and keep it heat-
ed, skimming it from time to time, until it be-
comes quite transparent; then pour off the clean
portion into another vessel, and cool itas quickly
as possible, by placing the vessel in very cold
water or ice. This is the method employed by
the Tartars who supply the Constantinople mar-
ket. In this state it may be preserved perfectly
fresh for six or nine months, if kept in a close
vessel and a cool place.

CABBAGE, CA ULIFLOWER and LET-
T UCE.-—Sow the seeds for early cauliflower,
cabbage, or lettuce, about February I, in well-
prepared soil—say one-third each of leaf‘mold,
sand and loam; spread three or four inches
deep on the benches of the greenhouse, or in
boxes of about that depth. Keep a tempera-
ture of from 55° to 60°, and in three weeks they
will be ready to replant—this time in boxes—at
about 2% inches apart each way for the cab-
bages, and 1% inches for the lettuce. By the
middle of March they will, if the temperature
has averaged 55°, be strong plants, superior in
every respect to those wintered over in cold-
frames. By this date (the middle of March) the
weather is such that they maybe set out in cold-
frames, and covered at night either with wooden
shutters or sashes for five or six days, when they
will be sufficiently hardened off to be planted in
the open field. The conversion of sash that has
been used on cold-frames into greenhouses is a
very simple matter ; two sashes of 6 feet in
length, give, when placed at the proper angle, a
width to the greenhouse of II feet; 2 feet of
this space is used as a walk; the remainder, 9
feet, for bench room, on which to grow plants.
The outer walls may be formed of wood.

CABBAGES, 77:: Cut Worm on.—To pre-
vent the ravages of the cut worm take pieces of
newspaper six inches square, tear a slit in one
side to the centre and insert the plant. Bring
the slit edges together, and place a little earth or
a pebble on the corners, and the work is done.
A platform of paper is formed around the plant,
through which the worm cannot penetrate.

CABBAGE PLANTS, SAL TING—The
use of salt is said to make the cabbage more
crisp, of better flavor, and to keep better when
salt is used, than without. After setting out the
plants, and when they are damp, either after a
rain or when the dew is on, take a small dish of

FARIII, ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRY.

125

 

fine salt and walk among the rows, sprinkling a
little pinch of salt on the centre leaves of each
plant: when the leaves begin to grow you re-
peat the salting, and when the centre leaves be-
gin to form the head, apply salt again, scatter-
ing it over the leaves ; after this look them over
occasionally, and if you find any plants that do
not head well or appear diseased, sprinkle the
salt over freely; this will save all such plants.
A quart of salt is sufficient for 500 plants in a
season, although more can be used with safety.

CARROT S, T o Cultivate.—-—Select a good,
rich clover sod, deep loamy soil, or even grav-
elly, well drained; spread on evenly fifteen to
twenty ox~cart loads of good manure to the acre.
In the spring, after the ground is well settled and
dry, with settled warm weather, plow the ground
thoroughly, eight inches deep, or more, depend-
ing upon its previous management. In plowing
it ought not to be plowed more than an inch
deeper than before, unless the deeper soil has
been ameliorated and is richer than the upper
soil. A soil having a close, stifl' subsoil, unless
thoroughly subsoiled, will grow poor crops of
roots generally. After plowing, harrow so as
to make the soil perfectly fine, and even this is
essential to the ready drilling and germinating of
the seed; now drill in the seed, putting the
drills two feet apart. The seed should be fresh
and of the previous year’s growth. It is best
to commence the culture as soon as the rows can
be distinguished. Have a cultivator of light
frame, with eight teeth, similar to the coulter of
a plow, only narrower, and about ten inches
long, and a shovel for the front. With this and
a horse go through, cutting the soil deep close
to the rows without covering the plants; this
will save the greatest part of the work usually
done with the hoe, and do it much better.
When the carrots are well growing and about
the size of the small end of a clay pipe stem,
take 'a narrow hoe and cut them into hills, thin-
ning them to four or five inches apart. The af-
ter culture is performed with the cultivator, go-
ing through once in about two weeks. If any
weeds come in the rows, pull them out by hand
-—-but it is not probable that weeds will trouble
if the soil be selected as above, and well pre-
pared before planting, and the culture as di-
rected. To harvest, it is best to take a sharp
hoe with a short handle and clip off the tops
close to the crown, gather them, and then plow
around a plat a deep furrow, as close to the
roots as you can go; now take them by hand
and draw them out, and throw four or more of
the rows into one. Carrots should be taken out
when the ground is dry, and lie a few hours to
dry, and then be hauled to the root cellar to be
stored, and if in tight bins and covered with
sand they will keep better. They should be
left in the ground to ripen as long as safe with-
out freezing, as they improve till freezing weath-
er, and keep fresher than if gathered before fully
matured; be careful not to let them remain too
long to get frosted, for a light freeze injures the
carrot more than other roots.

CA TS CA TCHI/VG CHICKENS, To Care.
When a cat is seen to catch chickens, tie one of
them around her neck, and make her wear it for
two or three days. Fasten it securely, for she
will make incredible efforts to get rid of it. Be
firm for that time, and the cat is permanently
cured; she will never again touch a bird.

 

CELERY, To Cultivatew-Celery seed usuo
ally germinates slowly, and the plants are ex-
ceedingly small and tender when they first ap-
pear; consequently a carefully prepared seed
bed is positively necessary. If there are no hot-
beds that can be used for this urpose, select a
warm spot on the south side 0 a fence or build-
ing, and as soon as the frost is out of the ground
dig up a bed, say three fee. wide and ten feet
long, cover it with fine manure, two to four
inches deep, and dig it in and mix it with the'
soil. Rake the bed level, and sow the seeds
evenly over one-half the surface, leaving the re-
mainder vacant, and for use when the plants are
large enough for their first remova . Pat down
the surface with the back of a hoe or spade, and
this will usually cover the seed sufficiently deep;
if not, sift on a very little fine soil. Give the
bed a good soaking of tepid water, applied, if
possible, through a watering pot with a fine
rose. It will not do to dash on water with a
pail or some similar vessel.

The seed bed must be frequently watered un-
til the plants appear, and thereafter sufficiently
to keep them growing. If the plants come up
too thickly, thin them out; but as soon as large
enough to handle, take up and trans lant into
rows, beginning on the vacant end 0 the bed,
placing them four inches apart each way; and a
bed of the size named will hold about three hun-
dred. The plants may remain in this position
until wanted for final planting in the garden,
which is usually done from the first to the mid-
dle of July. Plants that have been transplanted
in the seed bed can be safely removed at almost
any time, whether the weather is moist or dry.
In the Final Planting, it is best to adhere to
the old practice of trench planting for ordinary
garden culture. A trench is dug of the required
length, or several of them, four feet apart, and
one spade deep, which, as a general thing, will
not be more than six or eight inches, and about
a foot wide. This trench is then half filled with
fine stable manure, and this is mixed into the
soil in the bottom of the trench. The trench,
when thus prepared, will be about four inches
deep, exclusive of the soil, which has been cast
out upon either bank. The plants are then set'
in the centre of the trench six inches apart, and,
after planting, carefully watered. The reason
why a shallow trench is most desirable is because
of the convenience of watering, as when applied
it is sure to reach the roots, and not spread over
the surface, as when level culture is adopted.
From this time forward, until the blanching is
commenced, all that is required is to keep the '
plants growing by careful culture, such as fre-
quently stirring the soil and giving water when
required.

CELL/IRS, To Me}? from Freezing—The
following experiment was tried by a gentleman
with the cellar of an out-house, in'which on sev-
eral occasions vegetables have frozen, though
the cellar was fortified against frost by a process
known to farmers as “banking” The walls
and the ceiling were pasted over with four or
five thicknesses of newspapers, a curtain made
of the same material being also pasted over the
ow window at the top of the cellar. The papers
were pasted to the-bare joist over head, leaving
an air space between them and the floor. The
result was that no frost entered the cellar, though
the cellar was left unbanked. We do not coun-

r26

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

sel the special use of old newspapers for this
purpose. It is just as well, or better, to use
coarse brown paper. Whatever paper is em-
ployed, it will be necessary to sweep down the
walls thoroughly, and to use a very strong size
to hold the paper to the stones. It is not nec-
essary to press the paper down into all the de-
pressions of the wall; every air space beneath
It is an additional defence against the cold.

CELLAR, VE GE TA BLE.——-A cheap vege-
table cellar can be made in the following man-
ner: Sink a barrel two-thirds of its depth into
the ground, (a box or cask will answer a better
purpose ;) heap the earth around the part pro-
Jecting out of the ground, with a slope on all
sides; place the vegetables that you desire to
keep in the vessel; cover the top with a water-
'tight cover, and when winter sets in you may
throw an armful of straw, hay, or something of
that sort, on the barrel. If the bottom is out of
the cask or barrel it will be better. Cabbages,
celery, and other vegetables, will keep in this as
fresh as when taken from the ground. The cel-
ery should stand nearly perpendicular, celery and
earth alternating. Freedom from frost, ease of
access, and especially freshness and freedom
from rot, are the advantages claimed.

ChEEbE, To [Wakes—The following de‘-
scription of how cheese is made is by a noted
dairyman, who has taken many first premiums
at State Fairs : In the first place, we keep every
vessel and everything connected with cheese-
making scrupulously clean. We are careful to
have our milking done in a cleanly way. If nec-
essary we wash the cow’s bag with water and
wi e dry before milking, never allowing the
m ker to wet or morsten the cow’s teats with
milk. We strain the evening’s milk through
two thicknesses of cloth into the cheese-vat, hav-
ing previously filled the space between the two
vats with cold water, and if the weather is ex-
tremely warm, we change the water during the
night, generally before retiring to bed.

The milk is stirred gently until reduced to 65
or 70°, when it is left until morning, when the
cream is skimmed off and mixed with warm
morning’s milk and stirred until melted, and it
is then assed through the strainer into the vat
to be mixed with the evening’s milk. A fire is
made in the stove connected with the vat, so by
the time the milking is completed the heat of the
milk in the vat will mark 82 to 84°—the milk
having been gently stirred most of the time since
the tire was started, so as to have evening’s and
morning’s milk and cream thoroughly mixed.
We add the rennet at 82° in hot, and 84° in cold
weather, shutting off the heat at this point. The
quantity ot rennet depends on its strength; we
wish to use only enough to bring the curd in
from 30 to 45 minutes. We do not color our
curd, as we think that it injures the flavor, and
is a practice that should be abolished~annatto,
with which the curd is colored, being so often
adulterated with red lead.

When the curd breaks with a good, clean
fracture, we cut it both ways with the curd knife,
which will leave the curd standing in half inch
columns. The heat is now applied or started,
and when the columns of curd will break clean
over the finger, leaving no soft, milky curd, we
stir or lift it up by passing both hands under it,
very gently raising it from the bottom to the
top, and so break and mix it up. Then we let

 

it rest a few minutes, stirring it occasionally
with the curd board until the curd hardens a lit-
tle, and the heat has risen to 90", when we cut
it very gently at first, not so much so as the curd
hardens ; as the heat rises we cut it until it is
about as fine as the size of wheat or barley.

Of course we do not do this in- a hurry, and
we occasionally let the curd rest; it should be
done with great care so as not to work out the
cream; this cutting process will take from two
to three hours. When the heat has risen to.
100° we shut it off, stirring the curd frequently,
so that it will not settle on the bottom of the

vat.

We cook the curd until it loses its milky and
glossy appearance, feels a little firm in the hand,
and the particles are looking a little contracted
or shrunken, readily dropping apart after press-
ing a handful of it together, and the whey, if all
has been done right,, will have a green shade.
We now put the curd strainer in the vat and run
off the whey; then stir and cool the curd before
you apply the salt, breaking the lumps, if any,
making it fine and lively, using two and a halt
pounds of Ashton salt for one hundred pounds
of curd; mix it thoroughly, and do not put it to
press until cool.

Press from two to three hours; then take out
the cheese, turn and bandage it, return it to the
press, and let it remain until the next curd needs
its place, having been in the press about twenty-
four hours. The cheese, after being taken from
the press, is weighed and put on the rack to
cure; the next day it is greased with the oil or
butter made from whey colored with annatto,
and kept at about 70° ; turned and rubbed with
oil daily for three months, when they are ready
for market. '

CHEESE, FREAWCHC—The cheese manu-
factured in the old province of Bresse, now the
de artment of the Ain, is made by boiling the
milk, adding a little saffron, taking it off the fire,
and putting it in the rennet immediately. The
curd is then dried in a cloth, press.ed for a few
hours, put into a cellar, and ,salted five or six
days after, this latter operation being continued
for a month.

Auvergne or Cantal cheese is made without
boiling the milk, but curdling it while fresh from
the cow; the whey being then separated, a man,
with his legs bare up to the thighs, gets upon
the table on which the curds have been put in a
tub pierced with holes, and kneads the paste
thoroughly with his arms and legs, an operation
which takes about an hour and ahalf. The uni-
form mass thus obtained is left to ferment for 48
hours, and is then salted, put into molds, and
pressed for 24 hours; after which the cheeses
are put into a cellar, frequently looked after, and
rubbed with a cloth dipped in fresh water.

The celebrated Roquefort cheese, made in the
village of that name in the Aveyron, is obtained
with a mixture of sheep’s and goat’s milk; but
even in the milking there is a secretwfor when
the udder appears to yield no more, the maid
strikes it repeatedly with the back of her hand,
whereby a little more milk is obtained, much
richer in butter. This operation, which 15 ap.
parently harmless, causes the udder-s to increase
in size in course of time. The next reason as-
signed for the peculiar flavor .of the Roquefort
cheese is, that when made into cakes it is kept
in caverns hollowed out in a calcareous kind of

.

 

FARM ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIR Y.

127

 

rock which skirts the village; the temperature
of these recesses is kept low by various contri-
.vances, and seldom rises above 4° Cent. (4x°
Fahr.) The cheese is made with the milk of the
morning and of the evening before.

CHEESE, DUTCIi—This is the curd of
sour milk drained from the whey, pressed into
balls or molded in small fancy shapes, and eaten
when fresh, or soon after it is made.

The milk is allowed to sour and ‘become lop-
pered or thick, when it is gently heated, which
facilitates the separation of the whey. The
curds are then gathered up, salted, or otherwise,
to suit the taste, and pressed in small molds, or
formed with the hand into suitable shape, when
it is ready for the table, and may be used imme-
diately. In cool weather, when milk does not
readily thicken, the sour milk may be put in_ a
suitable vessel set in hot water over the range.
The milk is then stirred for a few minutes, when
the whey will begin to separate, and it is then
removed, and another batch may be treated in
the same manner.

Sometimes this kind of cheese is potted and
left to decompose, and when it has acquired a
strong, villainous smell, it is regarded as most
delicious by those who have acquired a taste for
eating it in this state. In some markets cottage
or Dutch cheese finds a ready sale, and quite a
profit is made by certain butter-makers, in turn-
ing their sour milk into this product.

CHEESE, NEUFCHA TEL—Neufchatel
cheese, in its manufacture, differs from the
above (Dutch cheese) only in being not allowed
to ripen so long, two or three weeks being con-
sidered enough. Variations of this cheese are
made by adding some chopped herb—the favor-
ite is sage—and not allowing the cheese to ripen
over three or four days.

CHERRIES—The cherry, as a rule, luxu-
riates in a warm, sandy soil, in an elevated situ-
ation; but some of the best varieties will thrive
in all soils and aspects. In order to obtain this
fruit early, some of the varieties are planted u
against walls, but all the sorts do well as dwar s
or espaliers in general situations, and most of
them as standards. Full standards should be
planted from twenty to thirty feet, and the small
standards from fifteen to eighteen feet apart.
The proper season for planting is from the end
of October till February or March. Varieties
of the cherry are perpetuated by grafting or by
budding on stocks of the black or red wild cher-
ries, and new sorts are procured from cherry
stones, which are preserved in sand from the
autumn till spring, and then sown. The plants
come up the same season, but should not be re-
moved till the second autumn after sowing, when
they may be transplanted into rows three feet
apart, the plants being laced from a foot to fif-
teen inches apart in tlie row. Next summer
they will be fit to bud if intended for dwarfs;
but if for standards. they should be allowed to
stand one or more seasons, generally till they are
four years old. They should be budded or be
grafted about six inches from the ground, the
usual way being to bud in summer, and to graft
those which do not succeed the following spring.
There are various methods of training the cher-
ry, when grown on walls or espaliers, which, of
course, must be left to the Judgment of the
grower. Occasional pruning is all that is re-
quired, the object being to remove any irregu-

 

larity in cross placed or overcrowded branches,
and to take away all cankery and decayed wood.

CREAM CLOTTED (a: Made in Eng-
land.)—The dairy-house is of stone, in connec-
tion with the dwelling—stone floor, and stone
benches for the milk to set, and all well venti-
lated and scrupulously neat and clean. Their
milk at this season of the year is strained in very
large, deep pans, and put in the dairy-house,
where it stands from eight to ten hours, when
the pans are taken out, and the milk scalded by
the pan in an iron skillet, filled with water, and
placed upon the range. At the bottom of the
skillet there is a grate, on which the pan of milk
rests, so as to keep it from the bottom, and from
burning. The milk is here slowly heated, until
the cream begins to show a distinctly marked
circle around the outer edges, when it must be
immediately removed. Some experience is nec-
essary in applying the heat, to have it Just right,
otherwise the cream is spoiled. When properly
scalded, the milk is removed to the dairy, where
it stands from twelve to twenty-four hours, ac-
cording to the condition of the weather, when
the cream is removed, and is in a thick, com-
pact mass, very much unlike our ordinary cream.
It is considered a great delicacy, and is largely
used as a dressing, with sugar, upon pastry,
puddings, etc.

CLOVER, How Cured in Germany.——A far-
mer provides in winter a number of stakes from
three to four inches thick and seven to eight feet
long, about eighty or one hundred to an Ameri-
can acre. In each of the stakes six holes one
inch wide are bored in this way : Suppose that
the stake is firmly planted in the ground, the
first hole is bored two feet above ground from
north to south, the second three inches higher
from east to west, not quite half way from the
first hole to the top of the stake hole. N o. 3 is
bored again north and south, three inches high-
er; hole No. 4, east and west. A little below
the top come holes Nos. 5 and 6. Through
these holes sticks about five to six feet long are
put, so that, seemingly, twelve sticks of about
equal length protrude from the stake, crossing
each other at right angles. On these sticks the
clover is put, either right away after mowing, or
a little wilted, and there left to dry. This makes
a better, more nutritious hay than the best sun-
shine would, and rains do not much harm, par-
ticularly if care is taken to spread the clover well
on the two top sticks. The whole fixture is
called a “ heintzen,” and is mostly used on deep
clay soils, where the holes for the stakes can be
made easily by a peculiar kind of borer. For
stony grounds the p ramids are used. Three
stakes, six to seven eet long and two to three
inches thick, are bored near the top, and then
joined there by a wooden or iron bolt, on which
they can turn. This pyramid is then put up-
right on the ground. Small pegs are fixed in
each limb. From one eg to the other on the
next limb sticks are laid? and on the sticks come
the clover. The number of pyramids wanted
for an acre is one-half of the “ heintzen,” and,
as old rails will answer for the limbs, the pyra-
rhinids would probably suit the American farmer

est.

C ORM—In the cultivation of corn, the best
time to plow is just previous to planting. Do
not commence too soon—not until the ground
will turn up mellow; every one should calculate

DICTIONARY OF EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

about the amount of time it will take to fit the
ground, and if too wet when you wish to com-
mence, erhaps the plowing can be safely de-
layed a ew days.

Let all the grass grow that will previous to
the first of May; all weed seeds in manure and
on the surface of the ground will by this time be
sprouted, and with the grass make almost an ex-
tra coat of manure.

In lowing, commence in the centre of the
field, ack-furrowing the whole field, thus you
will have a field with not a particle of it trodden
solid in turning, as you turn each corner on un-
plowed land and with no dead furrow; a little
practice will enable you to finish without carry-
ing a furrow. '

As soon as plowed harrow well; a good plan
is to harrow each morning that plowed the pre-
vious day. The proper time to plant—let the
location be what it may—can be determined by
observing the natural vegetation and the warmth
of the soil. Whenever the ground is warm
enough to cause a speedy germination and
growth, then is the time to plant. This can be
ascertained by plunging the lower end of a ther-
mometer into the ground. If the mercury goes
much below 60°, there is no use in putting corn
seed in. A generally safe rule is to plant when
the apple is in full bloom.

Much has been said in regard to hills w.
drills. It has been found that the best results
will be found in planting in drills about three and
one-half feet apart, and putting hills about eight-
een inches apart, leaving only two stalks to each

The great difficulty with those who drill is that
they do not thin sufficiently. Drills should run
north and south. Three inches is about the cor-
rect depth for planting. As soon as the corn be-
gins to push through the ground start the drag,
going diagonally across the drills, paying no at-
tention to the corn; for if planted at that depth

on will not destroy a hill ; go over the piece at
east once each week until the corn is of such a
height that the drag will break it off, when use a
wheel cultivator, or an of the various imple-
ments. The thinning s ould be done about the
last of June, and directly after harvest go over it
and cut out any remaining weeds, etc.

CORN COBS.—In shelling corn most farm-
ers throw the cobs into the manure pile. This
is poor economy, as they are slow to decay, and
are a source of perpetual trouble. Rather put
them into the wood-house, or some other dry
place, and use them as fuel; they make a quick
and very hot fire, excellent for summer use, and
excellent kindlings. A few shavings and one or
two handsful of dry cobs will start a fire as quick
as any kindlings ever used, and the ashes make
the best of soap.

CORIV, To innt Being Dntroyed lem
Newly Plantain—To revent the corn being de-
stroyed or eaten by chickens, birds, or insects,
before it grows through the surface of the soil,
prgpare the seed before planting by sprinkling a
su cient portion of coal tar, procured at the gas
manufactory, through it, stirring so that a por-
tion will adhere to each grain ; then mix among
the corn some ground plaster-of-Paris, which
will prevent the tar from sticking to the fingers
of those who drop the corn, and vegetation will
be promoted thereby. The tar and plaster will
not injure the corn so as to prevent its growing,

 

by 1being kept some days after it is so mixed to.
et er.

CORN STACKS, To Prawn! Ravage: (3f
Mire in.--Sprinkle from four to six bushels of
dry white sand upon the root of the stack before
the thatch is put on. The sand is no detriment
to the corn, and stacks thus dressed have re-
mained without injury. So very effective is the
remedy, that nests of dead young mice have been
found where the sand has been used, but not a
live mouse could be seen.

CORN CRIBS, RA T -PRO0F.—Take posts
to or H feet long and 8 inches square; mortise
2 feet from one end; for end-sills, 2-inch mor-
tise with tusk. Taper post from sill to the end,
by hewing of? inside until the end is reduced to
4 inches diameter; make smooth with the draw-
knife, and nail on tin smooth half way to the
end, below the sill. Let sills be 8 inches square,
also end tie them and the rafter plates strong
with moderate inter-ties. Brace well, and lath
up and down with % inch lath ; dove-tail or
counter-sink joints crosswise; lay the floor, and
board up the ends with ungrooved boards; let
each bend be 12 feet long, 6 feet wide at the sill,
and 7% feet at plate ; and, if full to peak, it will
hold 250 bushels. If preferred, lay the floor
with lath or narrow boards, with room for ven-
tilation. Each post should stand on stone, and
be about 3 inches from the ground, and each
stone have a foundation 2 feet square and below
the frost. .

C ORIV, BROOM—Broom corn should be
planted at the same time Indian corn is planted.
It requires a richer soil than Indian corn—at
least Indian corn will produce a better crop on a
less fertile soil than is required for broom corn,
in consequence of its growing faster, and feeling
the effects of fertilizers more perceptibly. Bot-
tom lands on the banks of rivers that are annu-
ally overflowed in early spring are particularly
adapted to the growth of broom corn. It is
sowed in drills, about three feet apart, and the
corn thinned out to stand from four to six inches
apart. Any good upland soil that consists of a
rich mould, easily tilled, will produce an excel-
lent crop of broom corn, with the aid of barn-.
yard manure or other fertilizers. It requires
careful cultivation, by running the cultivator be-
tween the rows as soon as the corn is well up;
and then the rows require hand-weeding, and
thinning out to the proper distances. Boys and
girls can do this work better than men can, and
at one~third the expense that it would cost to em
ploy men to do it. No weeds should be per~
mitted to grow, as the value of the crop depends
on the cleanness of cultivation.

The seed is valuable for fowls, and for every
kind of live stock when ground; and some cul-
tivators think that the seed alone is worth the
cost of cultivation.

COTTON—The most suitable soil for the
cotton plant is a rich loam. It cannot be too
rich, and it is a poor crop on poor land. Cot-
ton has been raised with success in Delaware,
and even in Pennsylvania, but the finest long-
starple cannot be produced so far north.

he seed are planted in bills, the rows three
or three and a half feet asunder, and the plants
about two feet apart in the row. After spring—
ing it should be thinned to one plant in a hill.
The season for planting is as early as the ground
can be prepared. The soil should be well cul-

FARM, ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRY.

129

 

tivated, and care should be taken to keep it free
from weeds.

In the fall, when the pods open, it must be
gathered every day and stowed away until there
is a sufficiency to run through the cotton gm,
which cleans it of seed. It is then packed in
bales, when it is ready for market. The yield
of cotton per acre is from 500 to 1,000 pounds,
according to soil, cultivation, season, etc.

CRANBERRIES. —The most favorable lo~
cation for the cultivation of cranberries is where
the soil is peat from one to several feet in depth,
and where the surroundings are such that during
the summer months the water can be thoroughly
drained off at least one foot below the surface,
and at the same time such that the water can be
let on in a few hours in a sufficient quantity at
any season of the year to cover the surface from
4 to 6 inches in depth; and also in the vicinity
of a good sand-hill.

In preparing the soil, the surface should be
removed down to the peat; it should then be
covered at least with 3 inches of sand, or, when
this cannot readily be found, fine gravel will an-
swer a very good purpose. '

In selecting plants, care should be taken to
use only such as are known to produce good
crops. It is found that while some varieties can
produce 4 bushels to a rod, others, on the same
soil and with the same care, will produce only I
bushel. The month of May is undoubtedly the
best time to transplant the vines. The water at
the time should be nearly even with the surface,
and kept so for a week or 10 days, and then be
gradually drawn 'off. The vines should be set
singly, about 6 inches each way. The first sea-
son great care should be taken to keep out all
grass and weeds—after that, if the location be a
good one, and the plants properly set, but little
labor will be required to keep down the grass:
if possible, they should, during the winter, be
kept covered with at least 2 feet of water, nor
should they be left entirely out of water until
all danger of frost in the spring is over; for—
what is very singular—while the blossom buds
are able to withstand our coldest winters, a very
slight frost the last of May will kill them, and
entirely ruin the crop. This is a fact not so gen-
erally known as it should be. When the worms
make their appearance, the flowing 0f the land
for a few hours is sufficient to destroy them. If
during the month of September there should be
any days which promise to be followed by frost,
the water should be let on and the fruit thus pro-
tected.

CUCUMBERS.——In cultivation, the cucum-
ber ordinarily requires a deep and rich $011, an
abundance of moisture, and continued heat. Its
nature is to support itself by its tendrils in an
upright position upon pieces of brushwood, in
which manner the cleanest and best fruits are to
be obtained. This, by the way, will be found
to be a good practice, too, where there is but
little room for a horizontal growth upon the
ground.

Cucumbers, also, like most varieties of mel-
ons, have been found to possess in the leaves
immense perspiratory power, so that they re-
quire a greater supply of fluid than those of
most other plants, which accounts for the singu-
lar fact that they seem to thrive best where the
roots find their way to an abundant supply of
water. Such a supply of moisture is requisite

 

under exposure to an intense sunshine, the heat
and bright light of which decompose and alter
the fluids of the plants. and elaborate from them
an abundance of sweet juices. This is peculi-
arly so with melons in hot climates; and expe‘
rience has demonstrated that the moisture must
be applied to the roots, and not upon the sur-
face of the soil upon which they grow, so as not
to cool the surface, check the growth, and kill
the plants. ,

The plan recommended is as follows: Take a
tight barrel or cask, remove one head, and par-
tially fill the barrel or cask with large pebbles or
stones, say half full; upon these stones place a
mixture of compost with rich alluvial soil, or
fine fresh vegetable mold, until the barrel or the
cask is filled to within 3 or 4 inches of the top;
in which plant the seed, and cover to the requi-
site depth. This barrel or cask may be placed
in any convenient situation where sufficient room
or space can be obtained, and around which ar-
range lattice work or brush to sustain the out-
spreading plants in whatever manner may be
found most convenient for affording access at all
times to both the barrel and the plants.

Upon the outer side of the cask insert a pipe
of convenient size, through which water may e
introduced to the lower or under half of the cask
daily, or as often as occasion may require; this
portion of the cask should be kept constantly
filled with water. Mid-way of the cask the
staves should be perforated with several half-
inch holes, for the free escape of any surplus
water, and at the same time to permit the ad-
mission of an equal distribution of air; this pur-
pose would be better accomplished if the holes
were bored upon a line at equal distances apart
around the cask.

The effect of this arrangement, as will be seen
at once, is that through the capillary attraction
of the soil sufficient moisture is absorbed at all
times to nourish the plants, while the admission
of air can be controlled at pleasure by opening
or 1:losing the apertures upon the sides of the
cas .

CURCULIO.——To annihilate curculio, make
a very strong solution of gas-tar and water, so
that after standing a couple of days it will be
dark-colored, and as pungent as creosote. On
the first appearance of the curculio, with a small
hand-forcing pump (which every gardener ought
to have) give the trees an effectual drenching,
and repeat it every three days for two weeks.
As a preventive measure, destroy all the fruit as
it falls, and this can best be done by allowing
your fowls free range of the orchard.

0A1]? Y, CIzarroal in Z/zr.—The power of
milk to absorb the noxious gases and odors from
the atmosphere is known to every dairyman, and
this power extends also to all productions made
from milk, be they cream, butter or cheese.
Much of the bad flavor in butter and cheese is
not caused so much by anything derived from the
cow, or the food which she eats, as by the odors
imparted either to the milk after it is drawn, or
to the cheese after it is made, and before it is
put in the cloth and rendered impervious to at~
mospheric influences. Hence the necessity of
the greatest efforts being made, not only to keep
the dairy and every utensil used in a state of the
most perfect cleanliness, but also the attendants
should be in every way cleanly in person, and.
the air kept pure and unco ' bv any

9

r30

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

odors whatever. To do this, charcoal, finely
powdered, is probably the best and cheapest ar-
ticle that can be used. It is capable, when it is
fresh, of absorbing ninety times its own volume
of ammonia or other gases, which can again be
driven out of the charcoal by the application of

eat.

DRAINING.—A cheap mode of draining is,
instead of digging the ditch altogether with a
spade, to use the plow, taking a land 15 or 20
feet wide, and leaving the dead furrow where the
drain is to be. By plowing several times the
dead furrow may be sunk nearly 2 feet, and from
the bottom of this a trench, the width and depth
of the s aee, may be thrown out, and a drain
made 0 3 fence boards (4 inches wide will be
suflicient) in the shape of the letter V, may then
be put into this branch, and the plowing reversed
till the ground is made level. This method has
a double advantage—I. It is a cheaper method
than to dig the full depth by hand, and the wood
is cheaper than tile. 2. By turning up and thus
loosening the subsoil to that de th on each side
of the drain, the water would nd its way into
the drain more readily than if only a narrow
ditch had. been dug from the surface down, leav-
ing the sides unmoved and almost impervious to
water.

DOCK S, T o Eradz'tale.—Cut them off close
to the ground when the tops are fully out, but
the seed not fully formed, and they are done for.
The stalk dies in the ground; but you must cut
them so close to the ground that you leave no
leaves on the stalk, else they will not die. The
end of June is generally about the best time to
cut them; but it depends on the season. In the

asture-fields they are soon cut with a scythe.
n wheat and meadows they have to be cut with
a knife.

FARM LIFE, How to Malta A tz‘mrtz'w.-——1.
By less hard work. Farmers often undertake
more than they can do well, and consequently
work too early and too late.

2. By more system. Farmers should have a
time to begin and stop labor. They should put
more mind and machinery into their work; they
should theorize as well as practice, and let both
go together. Farming is healthy, moral and re-
spectable; and, in the long run, may be made
profitable. The farmers should keep good stock,
and out of debt.

. By taking care of health. Farmers have a
healthy variety of exercise, but too often neglect
cleanliness, eat irregularly and hurriedly, sleep
in ill-ventilated apartments, and expose them-
selves needlessly to cold.

4. By adorning the home. Books, papers,
pictures, music, and reading, should be brought
to bear upon the in-door family entertainments;
and neatness and comfort, order, shrubbery,
flowers and fruits should harmonize all without.
There would be fewer desertions of old home-
steads if pains were taken to make them agree-
able. Ease, order, health and beauty are com-
patible with farm, and were ordained to go with

it. _

594 RMIN G, Rulerfir Sut't‘fl‘l in.——I. Never
purchase land on credit, unless it be in a new
country where it is certain to enhance in value
rapidly.

2. Keep no more live stock of any kind than
you can keep in good condition.

3. Never allow your stock to suffer from cold,

 

by housing them in open, rickety buildings, and
remember that warm, comfortable stables are a
saving of one quarter of the feed that otherwise
would be required.

4. If your farm is so large that you cannot
cultivate all of it to advantage, nor keep good
fences on it, sell a part, and put the money out
to interest. You may de end that by so doing
you will save a great dea of care and trouble,
and make money faster than by skimming over
a large surface to get poor crops, and those half
destroyed by unruly cattle breaking over your
dilapidated fences.

5. Look well to your orchard, and remember
that it costs no more to produce apples that sell
for fifty cents a bushel than it does those that sell
for twelve and a half cents.

6. Keep none but the best implements that
can be produced, and when y6u possess them
take care of them. It is shocking to a good
farmer to see his neighbors leaving their plows
and harrows in the field week after week, to
soak in the rains and crack in the sun.

7. Never suffer yourself to be unprovided
with suitable work for yourself and hands on a
rainy day. A commodious workshop is neces-
sary on such days, and a plenty of good tools.

'In such cases a good farmer will never lack for

work. Much money may be thus saved that
otherwise would go to the wheelwright.

8. Never borrow tools, unless it be in some
unforeseen contingency. Every farmer should
own every kind of implement necessary on his
farm.

9. Never put off till to-morrow what may as
well be done to-day. Thousands of tons of hay
have been ruined by not heeding this rule.

to. Do all your work well. What is worth
doing at all, is worth doing well.

11. Don’t try to make merchants, lawyers,
physicians or clergymen of your sons, because
the farmer’s vocation is without honor. Gen.
Washington was not ashamed of being a farmer,
and you are no better than he was.

12. The soil must, like the horse or the ox,
be fed, in order to give forth abundantly, and it
must have rest. A judicious rotation of crops
is the grand secret of prosperous farming.

I 3. The manure heap is an important consid-
eration with the farmer. It should be increased
by all substances that are easily procured, of a
decaying nature. Remember that ammonia is
the essence—the life of all manures, and that
plaster absorbs it, and retains it in the heap,
while lime sets it free and causes it to escape.
Carting manure to the field, and leaving it in
heaps for months or weeks before it is spread
and plowed under, is but one step short of in-
sanity. It should be carted out no faster than it
can be spread and plowed under.

1+ Never leave your hired hands to work
alone. Be present with them, even if on do
nothing but look on. A pair of eyes wil some-
times do wonders with workmen.

15. The farmer who refuses to lay before his
children several good periodicals of the day, in-
cluding one agricultural paper, is allowing his
wealth and the usefulness of his family to run
away at the bung, while he is saving at the '
spigot.

FARMERS, Slap fir. ——Said one of the old-
est and most successful farmers in this State:
“I do not care to have my men get up before

FARM, ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRY.

r3:

 

five or half-past five in the morning, and if they
go to bed early and can sleep soundly, they will
do more work than if they got u at four or half-

ast four.” We do not believe in the eight-hour
aw, but, nevertheless, are inclined to think that,
as a general rule, we work too man hours on
the farm. The best man we ever ad to dig
ditches seldom worked, when digging by the
rod, more than nine hours a day. And it is so
in chopping wood by the cord—the men who ac-
complish the most, work the fewest hours.
They bring all their brain and muscle into exer-
cise, and make every blow tell. A slow, plod-
ding Dutchman may turn the grindstone of a
fanning-mill better than an energetic Yankee,
but this kind of work is now mostly done by
horse-power, and the farmer needs, above all
else, a clear head, with all his faculties of mind
and muscle light and active, and under complete
control. Much, of course, depends on temper-
ament, but, as a rule, such men need sound
sleep and plenty of it.

FENCE-P05 TS, Preservation tyE—Any sort
of timber, when employed for fence-posts, will
be more than twice as durable if allowed to be-
come thoroughly seasoned before being set in
the ground. The durability of seasoned posts
may be promoted, so as to make them last for
an age, by the application of a heavy coat of
coal-tar to the portion buried in the earth, and a
few inches above the surface of the ground.
Some farmers set the ground-end in hot tar, and
let it boil fifteen minutes. When cool, cover
with coal-tar, thickened with ground slate or
ground brick. The boiling stifi'ens the albumen
and causes the pores to absorb tar. The coat-
ing prevents the action of moisture. But such
a treatment of green posts would do very little
good, and perhaps mischief. Others contend
that the better way is to season the post well be-
fore setting it, and, when the post-hole is filled
to within 10 inches of the surface of the ground,
to apply a heavy coat of tar and fill up with
earth. As fence-posts always decay first near
the surface of the ground, it is only necessary
to protect the post a few inches above the sur-
face, and about a foot below it. The timber be-
gins to decay, usually, on the surface of the
posts. Therefore, if the surface can be pro-
tected by some antiseptic material, posts will
last a lifetime.

FLY 0N T URNIPS, T a De:t70y.—Take I
bushel of newly slaked lime, and mix therewith
% a bushel of wood ashes; mix and blend the
whole intimately together, and sift the powder
lightly along the top of the drills.

FRUIT TREES, 0wr—bearing.—The bend-
ing of branches of trees by an over crop of fruit
is most injurious; for the pores of the woody
stalk are strained on one side of the bend and
compressed on the other ; hence the vessels
through which the requisite nourishment flows
being partially closed, the growth of the fruit is
retarded in proportion to the straining and com-
pression of the stalk.

FRUITS, T a Gathers—In respect to the time
of gathering, the criterion of ripeness, adopted
by Forsyth, is their beginning to fall from the
tree. Observe attentively when the apples and
pears are ripe, and do not pick them always at
the same regular time of the year, as is the cus-
tom with many. A dry season will forward the
npening of fruit, and a wet one retard it, so that

 

there will sometimes be a month’s difference in
the proper time for gathering. If this is at-
tended to the fruit will keep well, be lump,
and not shrivelled, as is the case with al fruit
that is gathered before it is ripe.

The art of gathering is to give them a lift, so
as to press away the stalk, and if ripe they read-
ily part from the tree. Those that will not come
off easily should hang a little longer; for when
they come off hard they will not be so fit to be
stored, and the violence done at the toot-stalk
may injure the bud there formed for the next
year’s fruit.

Let the pears be quite dry when pulled, and
in handling avoid pinching the fruit, or in any
way bruising it, as those which are hurt not only
decay themselves, but presently spread infection,
to those near them; when suspected to be dam-l
aged, let them be carefully kept from the others,
and used first; as gathered, lay them gently in
shallow baskets.

FRUITS, T ime for Gathering—This should
take place in the middle of a dry day. Plums
readily part from the twigs when ripe; they
should not be much handled, as the bloom is
apt to be rubbed off. Apricots may be accounted
ready when the side next the sun feels a little
soft upon gentle pressure with the finger; they
adhere firmly to the tree, and would over-ripen
on it and become mealy. Peaches and necta-
rines, if moved upwards, and allowed to come
down with a slight jerk, will separate, if ready;
and they may be received into a tin funnel lined
with velvet, so as to avoid touching with the
fingers or bruising.

A certain rule for judging of the ripeness of
figs is to notice when the small end of the fruit
becomes of the same color as the large one.

The most transparentgrapes are the most ripe.
All the berries in a bunch never ripen equally ;
it is therefore proper to cut away the unripe or
decpyed berries before presenting the bunches at
tab e.

Autumn and winter pears are gathered, when
dry, as they succesively ripen.

Immature fruit never keeps so well as that
which nearly approaches maturity. Winter ap-
ples should be left on the trees till there be dan-
ger of frost; they are then gathered on a dry

ay.
FRUIT, Sun-printing an.—Monograms, in-
itial letters, or other designs, can be printed on
such fruit as apples, pears or peaches by the ac-
tion of the sun, with very pretty effect, of either
a light or dark color. To do this, draw the
monogram, letter or design on a piece of writing
paper, and paste it with mucilage or glue upon
the side of the fruit exposed to the sun. Just
before the fruit begins to color, and when the
fruit is ripe, and the aper is removed, the dc.
sign will appear in a lighter or different color to
the rest of the fruit; as, for instance, if the ex-
periment is tried on a yellowfleshed peach with
a red cheek, the design will appear in gold, sur-
rounded with red. If the opposite effect is in-
tended, take a small oval or circular piece of pa-
per, and cut out or pierce the letter or design in
it, and paste on the fruit, which, when ripe, will
have the design in high color on a yellow or on
a light green ground of the shape of the iece of
aper, and this again will be surrounde by the
nghter color of the fruit.
FRUIT TREES, Tr Protect from Rabbi“.

I32

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

-—To protect fruit trees in the winter from rab-
bits, it is recommended to make a strong decoc-
tion of tobacco, simmer it down in lard to the
consistency of thin paint, add a little soft soap,
stir well, and it is ready for use. Apply with a
brush or swab from the root of the tree upwards
until above the reach of the rabbits. This dose
would seem calculated to spoil the appetite of
the hungry depredators of whatever kind. See
also “ Apple Trees, To Keep Rabbits from
Barkin .”

GARDEN SPIDERS, T a Dtrtroy.—Vari-
nus kinds of fruits and plants, both in the gar-
den and the hot-house are frequently infested
with insects, such as aphides, earwigs, red spi-
ders, and other pests. The vine, the peach, the
melon, the cherry, the currant, and some hum-
bler plants, afford them appropriate places of
abode, to the discomfort of the gardener and the
detriment of his fruit. Several modes of expel-
ling these pests have been devised. One of the
most successful is that of frequently washing the
plants and fruits by means of the watering-pot
and rose. This itself will vastly diminish their
numbers, and at length destroy them. Lime-
water, however, will be found much superior to
common water for the purpose, care being taken
that the fluid shall reach the lower sides of the
leaves, and those parts of the twigs and branches
in which the insects take refuge. Six o’clock in
the morning is an excellent time to perform the
work. And when the leaves and fruit have been
thoroughly washed, care should be taken to com-

letely shade the plants in the hot-house or the
orcing-house with matting, to prevent injury to
them from the heat of the sun while they are in
a wet, cool state. The washing maybe repeated
about three o’clock in the afternoon.

GARDENING, W1NDOVV.—Soz'l.-—The
first point is good soil—without this no plant can
thrive well. Fresh sandy loam, with a third of
well rotted manure, will do for many plants; and
keep a reserve stock of soil in a heap, and turn
it over occasionally, then it will be ready for use.
In potting, press the soil well down in the pot,
and never use wet soil for this purpose on any
consideration, or disappointment will be your in-
evitable reward. See that the pot used is not
too hard burned, as in that case it becomes al-
most non-porous and unfit for lant culture.
Heat—Most plants will survive i the tempera-
ture gets below 40°; but no healthy growth or
bloom can be looked for at a lower average daily
temperature than 60 or 65" ; it is better that the
night temperature should fall 15° less than this.
One difficulty with plants. in our dwellings is that
they are as hot at night as during the day. Wa-
ter.—Give water only when the plants need it.
A plant with its roots constantly in mud cannot
thrive. It is better to wait until the flagging of
a plant shows that it needs water than to keep it
constantly soaked. Sprinkling or showering
should be done as often as possible. Take the
plants to a sink or a bath-tub and give them a
good dousing. A I'm—Do not be afraid of open-
ing the windows whenever the outside air is not
freezing. 'Give air every day when it is safe to
do so. Not only will the plants be benefited,
but the atmosphere will be better for human be-
ings. Dust is a great obstacle to the growth of
plants in the house. The showering we have
recommended will help to remove it; but all the
smooth-leaned plants, such as camelias, ivies,

 

and the like, should be occasionally sponged to
keep the foliage clean and healthy. [nJ'lL'tL—
Don’t have any. If the plants are daily looked
over, and the thumb and finger pro erly applied,
they will be kept in check. If a p ant is badly
infested by the green fly, at it in a box or un-
der a barrel and smoke it thoroughly. If the
red spider appears, as it will be apt to do in hot
and dry rooms, smoke will not help it. Remove
the plant into hospital and shower it daily. Fre-
quent wetting and a moist atmosphere is the
best remedy.

GARLIC. e—The common garlic is propa-
gated usually by offsets known technically as
“ cloves”——that is, the old bulbs are pulled
apart, and the small divisions planted in spring.
They are usually set in rows eighteen inches
apart, and the sets four to six inches in the
rows; plant with a dibble, or by thrusting them
into the soil with the fore finger and thumb.
Give them the same culture as onions, gathering
in autumn, and tie in bundles, the tops being
left on for this purpose. The young bulbs will
throw up long stalks, and if not checked are
very likely to run to seed, which must be pre-
vented by breaking down the stems, or tying
them in a knot, which is the practice of Euro-
pean gardeners. Garlics are mainly used by
foreigners, especially the Germans, and by our
people for medicinal purposes.

GRAFTING l/VAX.—1. Take 1 lb. of tal»
low, 3 lbs. of beeswax, and 4 lbs. of resin; put
into a kettle and melt slowly until all the ingre-
dients are combined. If to be used in the open
air in cool weather, add a % to % lb. more tal-
low. Melt the resin first, and be sure it is well
melted before adding the -wax and tallow. If
this be not done, the grafting wax will be full of
lumps. When melted pour it into cold water,
and work it by hand into rolls of convenient
size. In cold weather, soften the wax by put-
ting it into warm water before using. When the
scions are set—say as many as 20 or 30, or few
as is wished—have the mixture ready and apply
it warm, with a small wooden paddle. See that
every part is covered and the air completely ex~
eluded. It requires no bandage.

GRAFTING WAX, Liquid—Mr. L’Hom-
me~Lefort invented, not many years ago, a graft-
ing composition, which, when generally known,
will no doubt supersede all others now in use,
either for grafting purposes or for covering the
wounds of trees. It is very cheap, very easil
prepared, and keeps, corked up in a bottle wit
a tolerable wide mouth, at least six months un-
altered. It is laid on in as thin a coat as possi-
ble, by means of a flat iece of wood. Within
a few days it will be as ard as a stone. In ad-
dition to all the advantages indicated above, it is
not in the least affected by the severe cold of
our winters ; it never softens or cracks when ex-

osed to atmospheric action or changes. There
15 no better preparation for covermg the wounds
of trees. As long as the inventor kept it a se~
cret it was sold at a very high price, andeven
now it is generally unknown. The recrpe 15 as
follows: Melt 1 lb. of common resm over a gen.
tle fire. Add to it I oz. of beef tallow, and stir
it well. Take it from the fire, let it cool down a
little, and then mix with it a tablespoonful of spir-
its of turpentine, and after that about 7 oz. 0
very strong alcohol (95 per cent.) to behad at
any druggist’s store. The alcohol cool: it down

FARM ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRY.

so rapidly that it wiil be necessary to put it once
more on the fire, stirring it constantly. Still the
utmost care must be exercised to prevent the al-
cohol from getting inflamed. To avoid it, the
best way is to remove the vessel from the fire,
when the lumps that may have been formed com—
mence melting again. This must be continued
till the whole is a homogeneous mass similar to
honey.

GRAFTING, INDIA RUBBER—Some
of the English gardeners have successfully used
strips of India rubber in the place of grafting
wax, being neater, more perfect, and not soiling
the fingers. Sheets are purchased in market for
Sixpence per square foot. They are about as
thick as brown paper. They are obtained of the
manufacturers of this article before it is applied
to muslin and other surfaces. The strips cut
from it are about, an inch long and an eighth of
an inch wide, for small grhfting; the pieces will
stretch two or three times their first length; the
ends adhere when pressed firmly with the thumb
nail, the sheet having been previously washed
and wiped dry.

GRAF TIN G.—In grafting, a sharp penknife
and a good fine saw are indispensable. Split-
ting the stalk so that the bark shall not be at all
bruised, and shaping the scion wedge-fashion
both ways, preserving also the bark uninjured,
and placing the rim of the wood of both stock
and scion exactly together, so that the sap can
intermingle—there is no danger of failure if they
are properly waxed. One year’s wood should
always be used when it can be obtained, as it is
more certain to take and grows more vigorously.
For grafting generally, any time is good when
growth is going on, and there is not too much
sap in the scion; the amount in the stock makes
no difference. If there is much in the scion, it
is liable to rot before the union takes place. If
scions are taken from healthy trees, and are kept
from drying, sprouting, or other injuries, graft-
ing may go on from early in the spring till mid-
summer.

GRAFTIIVG (ROOT) APPLE TREES.—
This kind of grafting is performed as follows:
Take seedling stocks one or two years old, cut
off the stock at the collar of the plant, and re-
move the top root and all unnecessary fibrous
roots, leaving only a few of them four or five
inches long. Wash the stocks, and make a very
smooth cut sloping upward an inch or so across
the collar. In the center of this cut make a slit
or tongue to receive the scion. The scion, three
or four inches long, should be made to fit the
tongue exactly, both the woody part and the in-
ner bark. On this close fitting depends the suc-
cess of the operation. This done, cover the en-
tire graft with the wax, or with prepared wax
cloth, which is nothing more than cotton cloth
spread thinly with grafting composition while it
is hot. This work is commonly done in the leis-
ure of winter. After the required number of
stocks have been grafted, they are packed away
in sand in a cool cellar to be planted in the

ring.

- GRAFTIZVG GRAPES—Grafting grape
Vines may be done early in the spring, before
the sap begins to flow, or after the vines have
leaved out partially, and just after the main flow
of sap is over; or it may be done in the fall, but
in a1 cases it is to be done on the stock so low
.down that the scions may be covered with earth

 

133
up to their buds. Attention to this point is nec-
essary to success.

The operation is similar to grafting fruit trees
—the scions should each have a single bud, and
they should be cut off an inch above, and not
less than three inches below the buds. The
grape stocks are to be split, and the scions made
with long, wedge-shaped ends, with shoulders,
just as apple or other fruibtree grafts are made,
and with the inner sides of the wedges narrow-
est, so that the pressure will be greatest where
the inner bark of vine and scion meet. These
stocks are then bound with basswood bark, and
grafting wax applied, and the soil packed firmly
around the scions, leaving the buds just above
the ground.

When the grafting is done in the fall—and we
think that the best season to do it—a flower pot
should be inverted over such stock and gra ts,
(insert two scions to each stock,) and covered
with straw or barnyard litter to prevent freezing
—and in the following spring the earth may be
packed around the stocksas above. It is thought
by those who graft in the fall that the stocks and
scions have more time to unite, and form a com-
plete junction during the winter, and will grow
sooner than when grafted in the spring.

When grape vines are cut off when the sap is
flowing freely, for the purpose of grafting them,
they will be liable to “ bleed” to death—that is,
the sap will escape to such a degree that the vi—
tality of the roots will be destroyed, consequent-
ly, all grafting in the spring should be done be-
fore the sap begins to flow, or after the flow of
sap is over, early in June, in the climate of New-
York.

If vines are to be grafted above the ground,
they should be bent over and covered with earth
where the junction takes place, and a mulch of
grass, or otherwise, put upon them, to cause
them to continue moist. It is a rather difiicult
operation to graft grape vines three, four or more
feet from the ground; yet we think it can be
done, and a dozen varieties of grapes made to
grow on one vine.

GRAPES—The best soil for the vine is a
light, dry loam, with a slight intermixture of clay
and calcareous matter, moderately rich, the soil
inclining a little to the south. This should be
plowed in the fall of the year, at least one foot
deep, and trench plowing would be better, mak-
ing one plow follow directly after another in the
same furrow, turning up the ground, if possible,
I 5 or 18 inches deep. The utility of this is, to
give a light, deep surface for the roots to strike
into the earth, and thus draw the more nourish-
ment from it, and be sufficiently low and out of
the way of being cut off, when the plow is run
between the rows for after-cultivation. Plant-
ing and Culture.—-Early in the spring, before
vegetation commences, replow and harrow the
land fine, strike off the rows 6 feet apart, then
take cuttings or roots, as they can be best ob-
tained, and plant them 3 feet from each other in
the rows. As the vines grow they will require
staking and tying up with the stalks of long,
tough grass, or green, flexible straw. The after
cultivation is precisely like that of corn or" any
root crop, it being necessary increl to plow out
between the rows occasionally, an keep weeds
down by hoeing the ground about the vines,
where it may be slightly elevated from the cen-
tre of the rows, in order to keep them from any

i

134

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

standing water. Two vines only are left from
each main stem of a different year’s growth, the
rationale of which may be thus simply defined:
The branch that grew, for instance, in the sea-
son of ’80, bears in ’81, and in the spring of ’82
it is tuned 'off, and that season another grows in
its p ace, prepared to bear in ’83, while that
which grew in ’81 bears in ’82, and is cut off in
’83, and the one growin in ’82, when the last
gave fruit, will bear in ’ 3.

GR (18.5, (W/n'te,) Remedies fan—An au-
thority says : A good coat of unrotted ma-
nure, plowed in six or eight inches deep, is al-
most a specific against white grubs in corn or po-
tatoes. We suppose the grubs work in the ma-
nure and leave the corn plants alone. Plowing
under clover, immediately before planting, often
has the same effect.

GOOSEBERRY BUSHES. Mildew on—A
weak solution of saleratus, pretty strongly tinc.
tured with alum, sprinkled over gooseberry
bushes, is sure to prevent mildew.

HA Y, Cutting and Curing.—I. Get ready
for haying—that is, put your mowing machine,
etc., in good order, so as to have no delay when
you begin the work.

2. If you have a good deal of grass to cut,
some of it should be cut a few days before it is
actuall mature, or you will be compelled to cut
other elds so much later than it ought to becut,
that you, would lose more by waiting till your
earlies‘. grass is fully ripe, than you would gain
by waiting till it is mature; besides grass cut a
few days before it is strictly ready for the mow-
er makes excellent hay, but not quite so much of
it as when cut later.

3. When the time comes to commence mow-
ing—which should be when there is a prospect
of fair weather, go ahead and do not wait until
the dew is off, on account of any injury the hay
may sustain, as you will never be able to see any
difference in value between hay, from grass cut
with or without the dews upon it.

-4. Just as soon as the sun has dried the upper
surface of the grass, the spreading operation may
commence ; and you should have help enough to
do the work well. N o grass cut during the pre-
vious afternoon, and up to 10 o’clock that day,
should remain unspread at dinner-time, unless it
be such as is light, and is left in good shape to
dry by the machine, as is often the case. Keep
the grass moving as long as possible before you
begin to protect it for the night ; and here we
will say that we never would allow a load of hay
to be put into our barns that was cut the same
day, except when the grass had been dela ed to
be cut till it was past its prime and partial ydry,
so that a few hours of sun and wind sufficed to
cure it.

5. After drying the hay as much as possible
up to 3 or 4 o’clock, P. M., according to the
quantity of it, and hands to take care of it, the
question comes up: Is it best to cock it, or to
rake it into windrows, and so leave it till the suc-
ceeding day, when, if the weather be fair, it may
be put into the barn or stack P If left in win-
drows a great deal of labor is saved, and if the
next day is fair, the hay is in a better condition
to be spread than if in cocks ; but if a storm en-
sues, the hay is in a bad shape, and will suffer
injury, according to the length of unfair weather
that takes place. N o farmer should leave his
hay over night in windrows, unless he shall

 

have the very best of reasons for believing that
the next day will be fair. .

6. Hay may be injured by drying. too much;
but the wide awake farmer will av0id that, and
either get his hay into windrows or cocks before
it is thus dama ed.

HA Y, (CLOVER,) Management_of—Clo. .
ver should be mowed as soon as it is well in
blossom. There is no necessity to wait for a
brown head; there will be plenty to be seen be-
fore the cro is well down. Cut when the dew
is ofl‘, and a low to dry until the afternoon, when
it should be shaken up and turned before the dew
falls. If a tedder is employed, its constant use
will fit the clover to be put in cocks the same
day. If turned by hand, it may lie until the
noon of next day, when it may be at in cocks,
made as high and narrow as possib e ; they will
shed rain better in this shape, and, if caps are
to be used, a yard square will be sufiiciently
large to cover them. Caps are to be strongly
recommended, and the above size is sufiicient, as
the top only needs protection. Put up, andthus
protected, the hay may stay in the field until it is
all made, when it may be haulted together. If
anycock should be damp inside, spread for a few
minutes; it will dry rapidly. Clover cured in
the cock is much more valuable than that dried
in the sun, and wastes less in hauling. Put
away the first cut hay by itself, in a place conve-
nient for use in the spring. Cows coming in
early in the spring will thrive on thishay; the
milk will be largely increased in quantity, and be
richer in quality, while the butter will come eas.
ily, be free from white curdy specks, and in col-
or will not be far behind that made from June

ass.

ngAY STACXS, To Veniilate.-—Stacks oi
hay, corn-stalks, etc., may be ventilated by mak.
ing a hole perpendicularly through the centre,
with apertures through the base and top or Side:
of the stack to admit a current of air. The ori.
fice should be constructed when the stack is be-
ing built, which can easily be done by filling a
bag of the requisite size with hay or straw, pl'ac-
ing it upright in the centre of the stack, drawxng
it upward according as the stack rises. In this
waya chimney will be formed in the centre of
the stack, which will carry off the steam, ‘if the
hay or corn-stalk should ferment, and by admit-
ting air will prevent damage from mold. The
top of the air-tunnel should be protected by a
roof to keep out rain.

HEDGES, How to Plant—A good way of
planting hedges is to plow the ground about 12
or 15 inches deep, and pulverize completely;
then set stakes in range as the hedge is to stand.
Then take a common garden hoe and dig a hole
as deep as the plants are to be set, standing With
the face in range with the stakes; then .put a
plant down with the top toward you, leavmg at
an angle of about 45 degrees, being careful to
put it a little deeper than it grew in the nurser ;
then cover that one up by diggingthe dirt out or
the next plant, and so on, standing in the range
of the stakes. It will facilitate the job by hav-
ing a dropper to put the plants in their places as
you need them. _ _

HEDGE, BARBER}? K—After obtaining
good seed, mix it with moist earth, and keep it
in a cool cellar, free from frost, until the spring
opens. Then sow it in drills, like carrot seed.
Thin out the plants to six inches apart, and keep

FARM ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRY.

135

 

the rows free from weeds. The following spring
they will be read to transplant. Set them out
by a line, six inc es apart in the row.

HEDGE, CEDAR, (For Cold Latitudes.)—
First dig a ditch about I foot deep by 2 feet
wide where the hedge is to be, then go and cut
down second growth cedars, (out of thick clumps
or clusters are best, they having most all their
branches on one side,) about 3 or 4 inches
through at the butt; take branches and all and
lay them in the ditch, with the thickest branches
up ; turn up the branches so they are—that is.
the branches—not more than 8 inches apart, and
if there are not enough on I tree, lay down 2,
side by side, butt and top together; then chop
off all branches that cannot be got to lay in the
ditch to about 10 inches long or so, so that they
will cover up ; then cover up, taking a little pains
to stake and bend the branches that are to form
the hedge into a straight row, or nearly so; then
cover about two-thirds up, and then water and
finish covering, and with a very little trouble the
hedge in 5 years will be so thick that a hen can-
not get through it, or sheep or cattle get over it,
and will get stronger and larger every year.
Where small second growth cedars cannot be
got, small trees will answer nearly as well—or
even sow the seeds, which 5 a rather slow pro-
cess, but sure.

HEMP CULTURE.—The land should be
thoroughly pulverized with plow and harrow.
The seed-bed cannot be put in too fine tilth.
Fifty to seventy~five pounds of seed per acre
should be sown evenly broadcast. The amount
should depend upon the strength of the land;
the stronger or richer the soil the more seed may
be sown, the object being to secure all the plants
the land will develop, and thereby a fine and a
long fibre. The seed should be covered with a
light harrow,. running it both ways. The sow-
ing should commence as soon as the ground is
dry and warm enough to put into proper condi-
tion to receive the seed. There is no after-cul-

ture.

HORSE-RA DISH—For the cultivation of
this vegetable the soil should be deep and moist.
Cut off slips from a root with a little of the
crown and plant 3 or 4 inches deep in rows, it
for field culture, so as to admit of handy work-
ingia If in a garden it matters little whether in
rows or not, as it soon sprouts up in every di-
rection. Unless the whole crop is removed the
bed will supply itself year after year, and a plat
10 feet square will be enough for an ordinary
family.

HOTBED, T a Make a.—Make a frame 6
feet long by 4 feet wide; let the one end be 2
feet in height, and the other end I foot. Along
the top of the long sides, about an inch from the
upper edges, nail 2 cleats. This frame may be
made of one inch boards. Glaze the sash and
fit it upon these cleats, thus forming an inclined
plane, which, when the bed is completed and the
frame permanently arranged, should be made to
face the south-east. In this manner the rays of
the morning and noonday sun fall directly upon
the growing plants.

To make the bed, draw well-rotted horse-ma-
nure and pile it in a square heap, about 3 feet
deep, and of sufficient dimensions to admit of
the frame being placed securely upon the top.
Within the frame, cover the manure heap with
about 6 inches of rich earth. Put on your sash

 

and leave it until the fermentation of the hea
causes the earth to become warm. When this
is effected, large dewdrops will form upon the
inside of the glass. If the fermentation is not
very active, cover the sash with boards, so as to
prevent all radiation of heat from the pile. The
frame may be kept still warmer by banking up
the outside to the top with manure.

When the earth has become thoroughly heat-
ed the bed is ready for sowing. To sow with
the finger, draw drills about half an inch deep,
take the seed of cabbages, cauliflowers, toma-
toes, peppers, etc., between the forefinger and
thumb, and by rubbing the two gently and mov-
ing the hand along the drill, the seed may be
sown evenly and thickly.

The great principle in the successful forcing
of plants in a hotbed is to subject them to a suf-
ficient amount of heat without allowing them to
burn. This can only be regulated by eXperience
and judgment. If, however," the weather be
very warm, b throwing open the sash during
the day and c osing it at night, the plants may
be brought in contact with external air, and will
become more hardy and better able to bear the
chilling effects of transplanting into the open
air.

A constant succession of early plants may in
this manner be forced, and after their removal
melons and cucumbers may be lanted in their
places in small sods, and, w en sufficiently
forced, may be removed without being at all dis-
turbed. '

HYA CINTH CUL TURE.—The hyacinth
requires a light but rich soil, sandy loam, well
dressed, and mixed with thoroughly rotted ma-
nure, but if the soil is not sandy, add a third of
silver sand. The soil for a hyacinth bed must
be deeply dug, well mixed and turned over.
Plant the bulbs eight inches apart, and four
inches under the soil. ' To Grow Hyatinf/zs in
Pats.——Select the bulbs, and plant each one sep-
arately in a four-inch pot, well drained with pot-
sherds, and filled within an inch of the top with
the same soil recommended for the beds. If ‘the
plants are to remain outdoors until rooted, place
them in a dry level place, and cover them about
six inches deep with straw, decayed leaves, or
cocoanut fibre, putting a piece of bass mat over
to keep off rain ; they will not require watering.
In ten weeks they will have made sufficient roots,
and may be brought into the house and watched
carefully. If brought into the house directly
they are potted, keep them in a dark, moist at-
mosphere for about ten weeks, then gradually
expose them to the light, and give them waiter
frequently. To Grow Hyacz’nl/zs in Giants.—
Single flowering hyacinths are the best for this
purpose. Fill the glasses with soft water, (rain
water is the best,) so as nearly to touch the
bulb. Exclude the light totally from them for
five weeks, by which time the glass ought to be
full of roots; they may then be placed where
they will have plenty of light and an equable
temperature. Do not change the water while
they are in the dark, but when exposed to the
light pour out half the water in each glass once
a week, and fill it up with fresh water, which
should have been kept for some time in the same
room, that the temperature may be the same.
A very little guano, mixed with the water,
strengthens the lant.

IMPLEMENTS, (Farm,) Care qfi—It is a

rt

:36

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANT .

 

lamentable fact that a large majority of our farm-
ers lose as much from a want of proper care of
tools as from the actual wear and tear of them.
Repeated wetting and drying injures, sooner or
later, any kind of wood-work; the moisture get-
ting into the cracks soon begins the work of de-
cay. This may be prevented by the timely and
occasional application of some cheap paint. The
shovels, spades, and forks are brought into the
tool-house with the dirt sticking to them, and in
that condition they remain through the winter,
or until they are again needed. All practical
farmers know how much better a bright plow
turns the furrow, how much easier it is on the
team and driver, and yet they will bring their
plows and harrows in every fall with the dirt
sticking to them, and allow them to remain in
that condition until again wanted, much to their
irreparable injury, and also to their own loss
and expense. There are various mixtures which
might be applied to the iron to prevent rusting,
the cheapest of which is common (unsalted)
grease. A better article may be formed by the
melting together of six pounds of fresh (not
salted) lard and two of resin. An old iron pot
is a good thing to keep and compound the mix-
ture in. As soon as a tool is done being used
for the season, clean it off and give it a coat of
this mixture, and even if it remains undisturbed
for years it will come out as bright as when put
away. Implements properly cared for will not
only last twice as long as where this is not the
case, but, as we said before, they are far better
in every way.

INSECTS, To Exlerminate.—-By scattering
chloride of lime on a plank in a stable, biting
fleas are driven away. Sprinkling beds of vege-
tables with a weak solution of this salt effectu-
ally preserves them from caterpillars, slugs, etc.
It has the same effect when sprinkled on fruit
trees or shrubbery. Mixed in a paste with fatty
matter, and applied in a arrow band around the
trees, it prevents insects km creeping up. An-
other plan is to carry all t é‘toads you may find
to your gardens. They will devour immense
numbers of bugs. A toad will swallow the
largest specimen of the tomato worm, though
sometimes he will have a hard time of it. Hens
and wasps and spiders are all devourers of your
enemies. A common duck will go up and down
rows of tomato and otato vines, and pick off
the large worms usua 1y found on such vines, as
fast as it can see them ; and they will see a half
dozen when a man would not see one. Young
turkeys will do the same service, though they
are not so easily controlled and guided. All fal-
len fruit is to be picked up twice a day—at any
rate, one time—boiled, and then given to your
cattle to be devoured. By doing this it will pay
ten times over, and the result of it will .be that
the next year you will not have insects. See also
the recipes for a like purpose in this depart-

ment.

LA I/V/VS, fi'EEP]NG.—-Lawns must be kept
rich, if you would have a good, fresh, green
carpet of grass. Mowing them repeatedly year
after year, and raking off the fallen leaves that
drop from the trees, which neatness demands,
and which thus removes a useful top dressing,
requires an occasional addition of manure. By
far the best time to apply this manure is late in
autumn. If spread earlier it defaces the lawn at
a time when it proves offensive. Fine, dry ina-

 

nure, which may be readily pulverized, is best,

as it spreads evenly and neatly over the surface.
But where this can not be had, coarse or lumpy
manure will answer a good purpose if treated in
the following manner: Spread it as evenlyas
may be convenient, and if there happens to be a
sharp November freeze, followed by thaw, it
will loosen the lumps and render them quite frin
able. Then immediately run a smoothing harv
row over the ground, and it will grind these
lumps to powder and spread them over the grass
in better style than can be done by a skillful
hand, and with great rapidity.

LETTUCE 11V WINTER—It is said that
heads of lettuce can be produced in winter in
from 24 to 48 hours, by taking a box filled with
rich earth, in which one-third part of slaked lime
has been mixed, and watering the earth with
lukewarm water; then taking seed which had
been previously softened by soaking in strong
brandy for twenty-four hours, and sowing in the
usual way. We are assured, but will not vouch
for the fact, that a good-sized head of lettuce
may be obtained in the time mentioneo.

AlANURES.——There are two important re-
quisites to the luxuriant and healthy growth 0
plants—plenty of nutriment, and a suitable place
for growth. There are soils, it is true, so rich
in the elements of plant-food, and so bountifully
supplied with those partially decayed remains of
vegetable growth which we call humus, that de-
cades of continued crOpping do not suffice to ex-
haust their supply of the one, nor to rob them
of the mellowness imparted by the other. Un-
fortunately, however, but little of the earth’s
surface is of this character, and the question:
“ How much and what sort of fertilizers shall
we use ?” is a very weighty one.

MAN URES, S T ABLE.—Careful experi-
ments by German agriculturists have demon-
strated that the plant requires a certain list of
substances for its nourishment, its food, such as
nitrogen, carbon, potash, lime, soda, iron, phos-
phoric acid, sulphuric acid, and that as far as its
nourishment alone is concerned, it is a matter of
total indifierence to the plant whether these are
applied in the form of stall manure or of guan-
oes, superphosphates ; the one and the only re-
quisite being that these substances be present in
the soil in sufficient quantity and in an assimila-
ble form. Farmers followed the teachings of
science in supplying food to plants in the form of
artificial rather than natural fertilizers. Science
had told them that the nitrogen and phosphoric
acid of the one were just as nutritious as those
of the other. But this was not all that science
had to say. The use of a part of its teaching,
and not the whole, was the mistake. The rea-
son of the failure here is clear. Science informs
us that the plant, like the animal, requires not
only good and sufficient food, but also an appro-
priate place to grow in—or, in other words,_that
the physical character of the soil, its condition
as regards warmth, moisture, compactness, or
looseness, are just as important as its chemical
contents, or the supply of nutritive elements it
furnishes to the plant. _

And it is precisely here that the superiority of
stable manure appears. Not only is it a com~
plete manure, furnishing all the elements of
plant food, as special fertilizers do not, but it
contains also a large amount of organic matter.
undigested portions of the food of the animal,

 

\

FARM ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRY.

and straw used for bedding, and the like. This
organic matter decays in the ground, and by its
decay warms the soil, loosens it if it be compact,
and aids in binding it together if it be too loose,
and assists in the working over of the mineral
matter contained therein into a condition fit for
the use of the plant. .

The general rule to be deduced from the above
facts would be, if tersely expressed, keep stock
upon the farm to produce such an amount of stall
manure as will be sufficient to keep the 5011 in
good physical condition, and rely on artificial fer-
tilizers only to supply the still remaining defi-
ciencies of plant nourishment.

MAN URE HEA P, Management (yi—Ever
manure heap consists of three portions, and al
of these require very different means for their
preservation. We have first the carbonaceous
matter. This forms the chief bulk of every ma-
nure heap, and from the fact that it came origi-
nally from the atmosphere, and that it can be re-
placed from the same source, theorists who have
not carefully watched the results attained in the
practice, are apt to depreciate its value. It is
not as valuable as the other two constituents, but
it serves to bring the land into fine, friable, mel-
low condition, and it is by no means certain that
the carbonic acid, furnished by its decomposi-
tion, is not a source of plant-food. Under any
circumstances, however, it is well to be econom-
ical of it, and allow none to go to waste.

The second portion is the inorganic plant-food
of animals. It consists of phosphoric acid, lime,
potash, soda, magnesia, soluble silica, etc. , and
the great source of loss of these constituents is
from their being washed out. They cannot
evaporate, but if the rain and liquid manure are
allowed to fall on a manure heap, and drain
through it and out of it, the manure pile becomes
amere caput mortuum—a worthless residuum
of originally valuable materials. Hence every
barnyard where manure is kept exposed to the
weather, should be hollowed out in the centre
and well puddled, so as to prevent the soluble
matters from draining or soaking away. More-
over, if the farm is located in a region where a
great deal of rain falls, it is necessary to place a
large portion of the barnyard under the cover of
sheds, which prevent excessive wetting. Some
moisture is absolutely necessary. Too much is
decidedly injurious.

The third constituent of the manure heap is
nitrogen. This is a substance of great and un-
doubted value, and every care should be taken
to preserve and increase it. When vegetable
substances containing nitrogen undergo putre-
faction, in a moist state, the nitrogen in general
becomes converted into ammonia. The same
process of putrefaction, however, produces car-
bonic acid in large quantities, and this combines
with the ammonia to form carbonate of ammo-
nia. This salt is comparatively volatile, and if
the manure is allowed to dry up, while exposed,
to thin layers, the ammonia disappears. Sev-
eral agents may be set to work to fix and retain
it.

Water is one of these—carbonate of ammonia
dissolves very readily in water, and does not
then evaporate to the same extent that it would
do from a dry mass.

The great agent in the fixing of ammonia on
the manure heap is the humic and similar acids
produced during the decomposition of the straw.

 

137

These acids do it very effectually, and hence the
importance of mixing animal excrement with a
large proportion of moist stra'w.

One of the most powerful fixers of ammonia
is plaster or sulphate of lime. When this meets
carbonate of ammonia in solution, decomposi-
tion ensues. Carbonate of lime and sulphate of
ammonia are formed, and as sulphate of ammo-
nia is not volatile at ordinary temperatures, there
is no danger of loss except by its being washed
out.
Hence a few simple rules will enable us to
manage a manure heap so as to avoid any very
great loss :

. I. Prevent all loss by drainage and soaking.

2. See that the animal excrements are covered
with moist straw.

3. See that, While too much water is avoided,
there is a sufficiency to keep the manure moist.

4. Moisture and packing prevent fire fanging
—-that is, too rapid fermentation.

5. If you find it convenient to use a few bush-
els of plaster, sprinkle them over the heap so
that the plaster will be incorporated with the
successive layers. It will thus prove of great
service. .

MA N URE, A PP]. Y]NG.—In spreading
manure, care should be taken to wetter it evenly
over the land, breaking to pieces all large and
hard lumps. This should always be done im-
mediately, or not more than half a day, before
plowing, especially if. the weather is dry and
very windy. The manure should be plowed un-
der, before it dries very much, or loss will ac-
crue. Another way is to plow the land first, and
then put the manure on and harrow it in, if put
on plowed land; if on meadow, spread on in
early spring on the latest seeded piece. That
ground is mellow, and when it rains it carries
the manure down around the young roots, and
the result is a heavy crop of grass.

MAN URE, Canmrting Dead A nimzzl: into.
—The conversion of the entire bodies of dead
animals into manure, can be done by subjecting
them to the action of dilute hydrochloric acid, by
means of which they are completely dissolved,
and converted into a uniform pulp, which is in-
odorous and can be kept for any length of time,
to be applied when needed towards fertilizing
the soil. Another method is to cut them up, and
compost the dead meat with dry swamp muck or
peat. The ammonia and phosphate will all pass
into the peat, making a rich pile of compost, and
that without smell.

MANURE, Converting Bone: infra—Take
one hundred pounds of bones, broken into as
small fragments as possible ; pack them in a
tight cask or box with one hundred pounds of
good wood ashes. Mix with the ashes, before
packing, twenty-five pounds of slaked lime and
twelve pounds of sal soda, powdered fine. It
will require about twenty gallons of water to
saturate the mass, and more may and should be
added from time to time to maintain moisture.
In two or three weeks, it is asserted, the bones
will be broken down completely, and the whole
may be turned out upon a floor and mixed with
two bushels of dr peat or good soil, and, after
drying, it is fit or use. It has been recom-
mended to pour on to this mass dilute sulphuric
acid to aid decomposition and prevent the escape
of ammonia.

Another method is to take a kettle holding a

133 DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DA Y WANTS.

barrel or more; fill with bones; pour caustic
ley over to cover them. A gentle fire is built
for two or three successive days, to barely warm
the liquid through. In a week the bones will
become softened. Mix the mass with three
loads of muck, afterward adding the leached
ashes, from which the ley was obtained. Let the
whole remain, in order to decompose the muck,
and apply.

~ MAN URE, Garden Refuse a:.—-Green stuff,
such as cabbage leaves, radish and beet tops, and
the like, should not be allowed to dry. Let
them go while fresh to thc pig-pen or to the
compost heap. Young weeds—and old ones
ought not to be found in the garden—should
have the same destination. By saving all the
refuse of the garden in a heap by itself, or put-
ting it in the pig-pen, a surprising accumulation
of valuable compost will be found at the end of
the season.

MA N URE, HEM—A mixture of hen-dung,
unleached wood-ashes and plaster, frequentlyhas
a wonderful effect on com. If the ashes and the
hen-manure are perfectly dry, no decomposition
or chemical change will take place when they are
mixed together. But if moist, more or less am-
monia will escape, and the plaster will not hold
it. The only advantage of mixing these articles
together, aside from the ease of applying them,
is probably this: When the dry hen-manure is
thoroughly broken up fine, and mixed with the
ashes and plaster, and applied in the hill, the
moist soil soon induces chemical action. This
produces more or less heat immediately under
the seed and favors germination; carbonate of
ammonia would also be given off, and would be
absorbed by the soil immediately in contact with
the roots of the young corn plants, and would, if
everything is favorable, cause them to grow rap-
idly and assume a dark-green color. But care
must be used in applying the mixture, or it may
do more harm than good by burning the roots.
It should be well mixed with the soil, and not
come in direct contact with the seed. Some per-
sons apply it on the hill after the plants are up,
just as they frequently apply the plaster or ashes

one.

MAN URE, Leaver (Ln—Forest leaves are
excellent to supply the stable-yards, and, where
straw is scarce, also the cow-stables and hog-
pens. They can be'most conveniently gathered
after the first snow, or at least before the wintry
blasts have scattered them. They then lay com-
pactly, and, being moist, can be handled with
greater facility. Leaves absorb large quantities
of liquid manure, and are an excellent fertilizer
in spring. They can be gathered, too, when
other labor about the farm is slack.

MANURE, LIQ UID.—In every 100 lbs. of
cow’s urine there are 60 lbs. of water, 5 lbs. of
urea, 5 lbs. of phosphate of lime, 12 lbs. of sal
ammoniac and muriate of potash, and 10 lbs. of
carbonate of potash and ammonia. While the
solid excrements obtained from one cow are es-
timated to manure three times the amount. Our
dairy farmers will see, therefore, how important
it is to have tanks connected with their stables
in which to deposit this material, or a good sup-
ply of sawdust, dry earth, or muck, for absorb-
ing it in the gutters of the stable. A careful and
accurate farmer in Scotland has found that while
14 head of cattle would make 6 loads of solid
manure, the liquid would saturate 7 loads of

 

loam, rendering it of equal value. He had re-
peated the experiment for 10 years, and found
the saturated earth fully equal to the best pu.
trescent manure.

MAN URE, NIGHT—SOIL—There is no
better manure than night soil. It should be
mixed thoroughly with three or four times its
bulk of muck or charcoal dust, or in the absence
of either, good loam or coal ashes will answer.
Mixed with some such absorbent, it will have
lost its offensive odor, and become as portable as
any manure. If it is to be used to assist garden
crops, apply after spading or plowing the land
in the spring, and mix it thoroughly with the
surface soil; if to corn, apply in the hill before
planting; cover the manure with soil before you
drop the soil on it. '

MANURE, Sawdust and Cfiz'p.—-These are
excellent articles for promoting the growth of
the vines, shrubs and small plants. They must
be thrown into a pile, after removing the coarser
portions of the mass. and thoroughly saturated
once or twice a week with a mixture of urine and
soapsuds. This will induce incipient fermenta-
tion, and so far break down the texture of the
mass as to prepare it to act with energy when
applied to any soil or crop.

' MAPLE TREES, To Tap—Much injury is
often ignorantly and thoughtlessly inflicted on
sugar maple trees by excessive tapping, and va-
rious negligent practices in connection with the
operation. As a guard against such malpractice
the following rules will be useful: I. Use noth-
ing larger than a three-fourth inch auger or bitt.
One-half to five-eighths of an inch is best. 2.
Do not open the trees until they will run equally
well on all sides. 3. Select the thriftiest part of
the tree that is farthest from an old orifice. 4.
Never put more than one spout to a tree that is
less than one foot in diameter, nor more than
one bucket to one less than I8 inches in diame-
ter. 5. Never bore trees more than once in a
season, but freshen them once, or any time after
a long and hard freeze. 6. Never leave spouts
in the trees a single day after they have done
running. The quicker the orifices dry, the less
they decay.

The following facts should also be remem~
bered: The root of a tree will sometimes run
more than the body. A healthy tree runs in
proportion to the size of its top, and should be
opened with respect to its capacity for pro-
duction. Trees in open grounds, with spread-
ing tops, discharge more and much sweeter wa-
ter than those in a forest.

MAPLE SUGAR, MAKING—Preserving
the T rem—If the trees are worth having they
are worth keeping, and it is bad political econ-
omy, and a very immoral waste, to spoil that
which will enable posterity to live. Consequent-
ly, do not tap the tree with a huge gash, but
smooth 011' the outside bark about the size of a
man’s hand. At the bottom of this, with a three
quarter of an inch auger, bore from half to three
quarters of an inch into the wood, but not deep-
er. Cut a. V into the wood above the auger
hole, with a mallet and firmer chisel, to commu-
nicate with the auger hole. Spout:.-—Tin spouts
are the handiest. They save time in making and
adapting to the purpose. You will waste time
in making elder spouts, or wooden spouts of any
kind. W:.r:l:.—Unpainted pails are the best,
and if they are well scalded before being used

FARM ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRY.

they are all the better. Furnace.—Instead .of
the old plan of a kettle hanging over a fire, build
a furnace, over which you can place shallow
pans for evaporating the sap. In many places
maple sugar making is abandoned on account of
the waste of fuel; but in the way last recom-
mended the fuel is saved ver much, and what,
under the old system, was a osing operation in
farming, may become moderately profitable. If
you will use a kettle, a built-u furnace, over
which the kettle may stand or ang, is still a
great economizer of fuel. Boiling Dawn—If
you have two or more pans, or kettles, you will
save time, for while one is evaporating, the other
may be poured off through a straining cloth, pre-
vious to sugaring off. Pouring 0f ——When the
syrup has become nearly as'thick as ordinary
New Orleans molasses, strain through a flannel
into a pan or kettle, which place again over the
fire. When warm, you can add half a pint of
milk, or an egg beaten in the same quantity of
water, as a clarifier, if it needs it. If everything
has been carefully handled this will not be nec-
essary. Sagarz'ng Of—While the thick syrup
is boiling take off the scum. Keep the fire reg-
ular and steady. While this is going on, try
several times a drop of the boiling syrup on a
bright ax blade; when a drop thus cooled slides
off with ease, leaving no trace, take the kettle
from the fire, and stir it till it begins to form fine
grains, when pour it into moulds of any desired
shape. Moulds with sheet iron or zinc bottoms,
and wooden sides and subdivisions, are handy
and clean. Straintd Sagan—By boiling some-
what less, and placing the sugar (after it is
cooled and granulated) in vessels with false bot~
toms, perforated, much molasses drains off, and
a finer article of sugar is produced. During the
draining the sugar should be kept moderately
warm, say at about 70° Fahrenheit. Clarz'jj/z'ng.
—-Where the sap has been kept entirely free from
dust, twigs, leaves, etc., the milk or the egg is
unnecessary. Soaring—The tendency to fer-
ment and turn sour may be prevented by a little

uicklime added to the sap. Draining—The
orms of the sugar should not be drained until
all the sugar possible has been granulated. To
secure this, turn them upside down soon after
taking them out of the moulds; after a little
while turn them back again, and so on for three
or four hours, after which, with a vessel under
them to catch the molasses, they may be left to
drain thoroughly. A Slarge Sagan—If you
have many trees, and wish to make a consider-
able business of the maple sugar-making, build
a good furnace of brick or stone, with one deep
evaporating pan, and several shallow ones, and
arrange a barrel or hogshead of strained sap, so
that it will supply the deep pan with a constant
stream of sap, from which it may be ladled into
the thin ones as needed.

MEADOWS, l/Vorn Out—There is no more
profitable field belonging to the farm than a good
meadow, and yet comparatively few farmers un-
derstand the art of keeping them in a productive
state. Meadows become worn out, and conse-
puently unprofitable, from two causes—namely,
rom want of proper manures, or from a kind of
mess which farmers usually call fog. The first
as easily remedied by 5 reading a light coat of
chaff of any kind over tile sod, any time between
November and the middle of April, as this is
not only the best manure for meadows, but must

 

'39

not be put on farm lands at any time, as it con-
tains a great quantity of the seeds of noxious
plants that greatly thin, and sometimes almost
destroy the grain crop. The second is effectu-
ally and ermanently destroyed and converted
into a hig ly nutritious manure by a top-dressing
of lime, say twenty bushels to the acre.

MELONS,—-—First give the ground a good
coat of fine manure, thoroughly dig or plow the
ground, and then level with a rake or otherwise.
Then make a marker, by taking any piece of
wood that will not bend, eight feet long; fasten
two egs to this, seven feet apart, and nail a han-
dle in the centre, bracing it both ways ; then
draw a tight line for the first mark, drawing the
marker the first time through with one peg
against the line; the next time through, but one
peg run in the last mark; then you get all per-
fectly straight. Mark across these in the same
manner, and then place on each corner or hill
two shovelfuls of well rotted manure; take the
digging fork and mix with the soil thoroughly to
the depth of the fork tines. After this take the
rake and rake the soil on the top of this to the
depth of three inches, which makes the hill 2.
little higher than the surface of the ground.

The seed should not be planted until the
ground gets thoroughly warm—say the last of
May or first of June in this section. Too early
planting is one cause of failure. Then stick nine
seeds in each hill. As soon as they come up,
sprinkle a little plaster on the plants while the
dew is on, to keep the bugs off; do this as often
as the plaster gets off, until the plants get to be
of good size, and then thin out to four plants in
a hill. When these begin to run nicely, pinch
off the tip end of the runners, which will cause
them to throw out side runners ; pinch these in
the same manner; keep the ground well culti-
vated and free from weeds till the vines take
possession. If treated in this manner they will
cover the ground completely, and you will have,
from a small patch, watermelons by the hundred,
while others, pursuing a different course, will
frequently lose all their plants by the dry weath-
er, because they had a manure pile underneath
the plants.

Some persons raise Mountain Sweets alto-
gether, which is supposed to be the sweetest
melon grown.

MELOJVS AND CUCUMBERS, Barrel
Culture fan—The plan recommended is to take
a tight barrel or cask, remove one head, and par-
tially fill the barrel or cask with large pebbles or
stones—safy half full; upon these stones place a
mixture 0 compost with rich alluvial soil, or
fine, fresh vegetable mold, until the barrel or
cask is filled to within three or four inches of the
top, and in this plant the seed and cover to the
requisite depth. This barrel or cask may be set
in any convenient situation where suflicient room
or space can be obtained, and around which ar-
range lattice work or brush to sustain the out-
spreading plants, in whatever manner may be
found most convenient for affording access at
all times to both the barrel and the plants.

Upon the outer side of the cask insert a pi
of convenient size, through which water may g:
introduced to the lower or under half of the bar-
rel daily, or as often as occasion may require;
this ortion of the cask should be kept con-
stant y filled with water. Midway of the cask
the staves should be perforated with several half

140

inch holes, for the free escape of any surplus
water, and at the same time to permit the ad-
mission of an equal distribution of air; the pur-
pose would be better accomplished if the holes
were bored upon a line at equal distances apart
around the cask.

The effect of this arrangement, as will be very
readily seen, is that, through the capillary at-
traction of the soil, sufficient moisture is ab-
sorbed at all times to nourish the plants, while
the admission of air can be controlled at pleasure
by opening or closing the apertures upon the
sides of the cask.

As to the production of cucumbers alone un-
der this plan, it has been found to greatly exceed
any other ; the yield, under proper management,
from one “ generating tub” has been found am-
ply sufficient to fill a closely packed barrel with
salted pickles.

MICE-GIRDED TREES, To Saw.-——-Cut
from the trees branches of green wood of the
length required to connect the bark above and
below the gnawed space, sharpen them at each
end in the shape of a wedge, drive a narrow,
sharp chisel into the bark above and below the
space, and press each end of the shoots firmly
into the cuts made by the chisel. Then wax the
gnawed space well, or bandage it with fresh ex-
crement from the cow stable. Pains must be
taken to have the bark on the body of the tree
and the bark of the branches driven therein co-
indde. Another method is to cover the dam-
aged parts with clay, bound on with a bandage,
done as soon as possible, as the death of the
tree is caused by the seasoning of the sap-
wood.

MILDE W, .Sulpfiurfor.—The efficacy of
sulphur in destroying and preventing mildew is
now Well known, and it is the chief reliance of
the vine-grower, whether he cultivates under
glass or in the open air. Where sulphuring is
systematically followed, it is applied at least
three times—just before the blossoming of the
vines, after the fruit has set, and when it begins
to color; and, beside these stated periods, it is
applied whenever the appearance of mildew in-
dicates that it is necessary. The mode of appli-
cation, by La Vergne’s bellows, is the popular
way of applying the sulphur. The bellows may
now be obtained at most implement stores.
The character of the sulphur is of importance, as
much of that found in commerce is liable to con-
tain acid, and be injurious to the foliage.
phur contaminated by acid may be detected by
the taste, but a more delicate test is litmus pa-
per. This is paper stained with a blue dye,
which turns red when it is touched by acids; it
is kept by the druggists. The sulphur to be
tested is mixed with a little water and the paper
wetted with the liquid. If the least trace of the
acid be present, it will be indicated by the change
in color of the paper. Sometimes sulphur is not
sublimed as above described, but the crude
lumps are ground to powder in a mill. Sulphur
thus prepared is free from acid.

WIILKROOM, Charcoal in.—-The fact that
milk will absorb noxious gases to such an extent
as to greatly impair its excellence as well as its
healthfulness, is known to every dairyman. The
power of absorption is not confined to the milk
itself, but it extends to all the products that nat-
urally form, or are artificially prepared from it,
where they are cream, or butter and cheese.

Sul- t

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

The ill flavor, as well as the disagreeable odor,
of much of our butter and cheese, are not im.
parted to them from substances that existed in
the milk when it was drawn from the cow, but
which were taken up while the milk was setting
in pans or tanks, during the manufacture into
butter and cheese, or while these products of
the dairy are awaiting sale. How shall the air
that enters our milk-room be purified ? The
answer is easily made—use charcoal. This com-
mon and inexpensive substance, when freshly
prepared, is capable of taking up and securely
holding ninety times its volume of ammonia, and
a proportionate amount of other gases. Not
only does it tightly hold the portions of noxious
matter that pass through its meshes, but it also
seems to have the property of attracting them
from the surrounding air.

11111.1(, To Deodorize.—It frequently occurs
in the spring, when the farmers are feeding the
cows upon ruta-bagas, or turnips, that the milk
becomes so strongly impregnated by their disa-
greeable taste and odor as to be unfit for butter-
making. To obviate this, put a pinch of finely
pulverized saltpetre into every gallon of cream.
A little saltpetre worked into butter that has be-
come sour, or rancid, will render it sweet and
palatable.

[MILK (Ric/meri- of) T o T at. -—-Procure an
long glass vessel—a cologne bottle or long phi .
Take a narrow strip of paper, just the length
from the neck to the bottom of the phial, and
mark it off with one hundred lines at equal dis-
tances; or, if more convenient, and to obtain
greater exactness, into fifty lines, and count each
as two, and paste it upon the phial, so as to di-
vide its length into a hundred equal parts. Fill
it to the highest mark with milk fresh from the
cow, and allow it to stand in a perpendicular po-
sition for twenty-four hours. The number of
spaces occupied by the cream will give you its
exact per centage in the milk, without any guess
work.

Now, if you wish to carry the experiment any
further, and ascertain the per centage of butter,
set the milk in a large dish, and collect say one
hundred or two hundred ounces of cream ; make
your butter in the cream by ascertaining the
number of ounces of butter you have made.
Thus, if one hundred ounces of cream give five
ounces of butter, you will know that one hun-
dred ounces of milk will give five ounces of but—

er.
MILXIIVG IN SILENCE.-—A noted dairy-
man has said that no talking should be allowed
while milking was going on. He had discharged
a man because he would interrupt the milking
by talking, and in three days the increase of the
milk was equal to the man’s weekly wages.
MILDEW 0N ROSES, To [fill—Mix
equal parts, by weight, of powdered sulphur and
quicklime. Moisten with water, and let the
lime slake in contact with the sulphur. After
the lime is slaked, place the whole in a kettle
with plenty of water, and boil it until you get a
saturated solution of the sulphuret of lime-
This will be transparent and of an amber color,
and should be drawn off and preserved m bot.
tles for use. A gill of this added to a gallon of
water, and applied with a syringe, will kill the
mildew without injuring the roses.
M 0T HS, (C0dling,) To Trap.—-Take old
cider, or cider vinegar, not very sharp; put halt

 

FARM ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRK

I4,

 

apint in some open vessel, and hang it in all
parts of the orchard when‘in bloom—empty fruit
Jars, or tin oyster cans with the top all Oh” would
do. The string holding the vessel should be so
placed that it would not turn the water running
down the limb into the vinegar or cider. If you
have a large crop to harvest, you will want to
look to them every week or two to empty and
renew if necessar .

MUSHROOM BEDS, A rtz'ficial.—Mush-
rooms may be grown in pots, boxes, or hamp-
ers. Each box may be three feet long, one and
a half broad, and seven inches in depth. Let
each box be half filled with horse-dung from the
stables, (the fresher the better, and if wet to be
dried for three or four days before it is put into
the boxes; the dung is to be well beat down in
the box. After the second or third day, if any
heat has arisen amongst the dung, break each
spawn brick into three parts as equally as possi-
ble, then lay the pieces about four inches apart
upon the surface of the dung in the box; here
they are to lie for six days, when it will probably
be found that the side of the spawn next to the
dung has begun to run in the dung below ; then
add one and a half inch more of fresh dung on
the top of the spawn in the box, and beat it
down as formerly. In the course of a fortnight,
when you find that the spawn has run through
the dung, the box will be ready to receive the
mould on the top; this mould must be two and
a half inches deep, well beat down, and the sur-
face made quite even. In the space of five or
six weeks the mushrooms will begin to come up.
If then the mould seems dry, give a gentle wa-
tering with lukewarm water. The box will con-
tinue to produce from six weeks to two months,
if duly attended to by giving a little water when
dry, for they need neither light nor free air. If
cut as button mushrooms, each box will yield
from twenty-four to forty-eight pints, according
to the season and other circumstances. They
may be kept in dry, dark cellars, or any other
places where the frost will not reach them ; and
by preparing, in succession of boxes, mushrooms
may be had all the year through. They may be
grown without the dung, and be of a finer fla-
vor. Take a little straw, and lay it carefully in
the bottom of the mushroom-box, about an inch
thick, or rather more. Then take some of the
spawn bricks and break them down—each brick
into about ten pieces, and lay the fragments on
the straw, as close to each other as they will lie.
Cover them up with mould three and a half
inches deep, and well pressed down. When the
surface appears dry give a little tepid water, as
directed for the last way of raising them; but
this method needs about double the quantity of
water that the former does, owing to having no
moisture in the bottom, while the other has the
dung. The mushrooms will begin to start in a
month or five weeks—sometimes sooner, some-
times later, according to the heat of the place
where the boxes are situated. The spawn bricks
may be obtained from seedsmen, or be collected
from meadows.

0A T S.—Oats are chiefly sown aftergrass ;
sometimes upon land not rich enough for wheat,
‘that has been previously summer-fallowed, or
has carried turnips ; often after barley, and very
rarely after wheat, unless cross-cropping, from
particular circumstances, becomes a necessary

evil. One plowing is generally given to the

 

grass lands, usually in the month of January, so
that the benefit of frost may be gained, and the
land sufficiently mellowed for receiving the har-
row. In some cases a spring furrow is given,
when oats succeed wheat or barley, especially
when grass seeds are to accompany the crop.
The best oats, both in quantity and quality, are
always those which succeed grass ; indeed, no
kind of grain seems better qualified by nature
for foraging upon grass land than oats; as a full
crop is usually obtained in the first instance, and
the land left in good order for the succeeding
crops.

ONIONS, Cultivation off—The best soil for
onions is a light, loamy, deep, mellow soil, and
on a dry bottom. Select ground that has been
well tilled and kept clean. If potatoes, turnips,
or carrots have been carefully grown on it, it
will be likely to be in good condition to prepare
for onions. The best crop to prepare ground
for onions is onions, but as there must be a first
time, let them follow the crop that has had deep
plowing, high manuring, and the cleanest culti-
vation. Manure the ground heavily ‘with the
best thoroughly rotted manure. Put it on at the
rate of twenty-five tons to the acre, and it you
can add to it the cleanings of the poultry house,
the pig pen, and your dry earth closet, and a
ton or two of pure finely ground bones, all the
better. Onions are gross feeders, and require
rich manures, and plenty of them. Old onion-
growers say that the very best manure in which
to grow large prize onions, size to rule, is well-
rotted onions. Pulverize the soil thoroughly b
plowing, harrowing, and raking, and make th
surface as level as possible, to prevent washing
by rains, and free from stones. Sow the seed
as early in the spring as it is possible to get the
ground in good working condition. The earliest
sown produces the heaviest crop. In field cul-
tivation the seed is usually sown with a machine
used for this purpose only, which sows two rows
at once, making the drills and sowing at the one
time. In sowing with the machine it will re-
quire about four pounds of seed to the acre. If
the machine is not used, it will be found conve-
nient to run the drills a foot or fifteen inches
apart and sow thinly—say not thicker than an
inch apart, if the seed be new and fresh. It is
very easy to test the vitality of onion seed.
Place a little on some damp cotton or a bit of
moss in a warm room—say the kitchen; if it be
fresh it will sprout in three or four days. Seed
more than one year old is not apt to produce a
vigorous plant. Sow shallow, making a mere
scratch in which to drop the seed, and cover by
rolling a light roller over the ground, lengthwise
of the drills. As soon as the plants are an inch
or two high they will need hoeing and weeding,
and should be thinned out to about two inches
apart. Hoe shallow, and do not draw the earth
up around the plants, but keep the ground level
and clean. Hoe before the weeds start, and
much time and labor will be saved. If there be
a market for very young onions, they may be al-
lowed to grow for awhile at two inches apart,
thinning out to four inches as fast as needed.
If there be no use for them, the onions may be
thinned to four inches as soon as the plants seem
to be well established.

In wet seasons onions sometimes grow thick-
necked. To remedy this, growers are in the
habit of gently bending down the tops late in

142

July, with the hoe~handle, which checks their

owth and makes them form better bulbs. In
August or early in September the onions will be
ripe, which is indicated by the dying off of the
tops. They may now be pulled or raked out,
and left spread out to dry in the sun for two or
three weeks, by which time they are ready for
market, or storing for winter. The same ground
will be the best for onions next year, and so for
the next twenty-five years, but it will need to be
manured every year very heavily, and if a prac-
tice is made of saving all the soot from the chim-
neys, all the soapsuds from the washtub, and all
the slops from the chambers, and spreading it
upon the onion patch, the crop of onions will
amply repay all the labor.

OPIUM CUL TURE.—The time to com-
mence operating upon the seed capsules (seed
pods) is soon after the petals have fallen. The
way to do this is to take a common two-bladed
penknife, or a pocket knife with two blades of
e ual length, and both at one end of the handle.
Sip a piece of cork or wood on to these blades,
pushing the point through one-sixteenth of an
inch, or more, according to the thickness of the
pod shells. The cork guard is to prevent cut-
ting the pods too deeply when making the incis-
ions, for, if cut through to the seeds, the juice,
or a portion of it, will pass inside and be lost.
In setting the guard, it is well to cut off a poppy
pod and cut it in two; then arrange the blades
so that the cut shall not be too deep. Wind the
blades below the guard down to the handle, and
the tool is ready for use. The afternoon, or just
Rfore evening, is the best time to make the in-
cision, as the juice exudes most freely at night.
T 0 Cut, take the knife in the right hand, with
the edges upward; then insert the points at the
base of the pods, and pass them up nearly to
the apex, making a half dozen longitudinal cuts,
dividing them equally around the pods. The
cuts may also be made around the pods horizon-
tally, if more convenient for the operator. The
object sought is to wound the pod, which allows
the juice or opium to exude. The following day
the opium should be gathered, commencing af-
ter the dew has dried off—say by 9 or 10 o’clock
in the morning. To Gal/20', take a small and
smooth-edged, but not sharp knife, and gather
by scraping off the opium from the pods. A
small vessel with a sharp edge must be used in
which to put the opium as gathered, because it
sticks to the knife, and requires some force to
separate it therefrom. When a sufficient quan-
tity is gathered, it may be pressed into small
cakes weighing a pound, more or less, and it is
then ready for market.

ORCHARDS, To Manage—The whole of
the ground of an orchard should be dug in the
autumn and laid up in a rough state for the win-
ter, giving it as much surface as possible in or.
der that the weather may fully act upon and me-
liorate the soil, thus following it as far as the
case will admit. Observe to dig carefully near
to the trees, and so as not to hurt their roots and
fibres. If the soil be shallow, and if these lie
near to the surface, it would be advisable to dig
with a fork instead of the spade.

Crop to within two feet of the trees the first
year, a yard the second, four feet the third, and
so on until finally relinquished; which, of
course, would be against the eighth year, pro-
vided the trees were planted at thirty or forty

 

DI C TI DIV/1R Y OF E VER Y—DA Y WAN”.

feet apart, with early bearing sorts between.
By this time, if the kinds have been well chosen,
the temporary trees will be in full bearing, and
will forthwith defray every necessary expense.

PARSNIPS, T a Katya—Select a heavy, but
clean and rich, loam. Plow it deep, and har-
row it thoroughly as early as it can be worked;
mark off in rows fifteen inches apart, and drill
in the seed or sow by hand. Use plenty of the
seed, two or three to the inch, and be sure it is
fresh. Go through the rows with a pronged
hoe, or other implement, as soon as they can be
distinguished. When large enough, thin the
plants to stand four or five inches apart, and be
sure that they stand singly. Keep the land very
clean by frequent hoeing.

PEACH TREES, Management q/Z—Seed-
ling trees are the longest livers, most prolific and
most profitable. Secure a good variety of pits
which produce the same kind of fruit—these are
rare. Plant pits where you desire your trees to
remain, or, if transplanted, they should be of
the first year’s growth. After your trees have
attained to a proper size, cut back, and prevent
their bearing; this will cause the roots to spread
in the soil, and will add to the longevity of the
tree. Trees which send down one large root
and small fibrous roots, will soon become cov~
ered with moss and die. Use coal ashes and
soap suds plentifully, and if you wish to keep the
trees from blooming early, spread manure, coal
ashes or sawdust deeply upon the roots when
the ground is hardest frozen, and do not remove
till late in the spring. (This has been sold as a
great secret.) The largest roots of a peach tree
will be found upon the north and west sides.
Branches grow fastest toward the south and the

east.

PEA CH B ORER, To Destroy—One method
is to bank up to the height of from 8 to 10 inch-
es, adding a little each successive spring. This,
it is said, will prevent the depredations of the
peach borer. Another is the use of scalding
water“ Early each spring scrape \around the
trees with a large knife on the morning of
“washing day.” When the washing is done,
take buckets full of boiling suds into the or-
chard, and dash the trees just where the trunks
join the ground. In this way thousands of lit-
tle worms are scalded to death. Another is by
the use of carbolic acid soap, and lastly by pot-
ash, as follows:

PEACH TREES, Polar/i fan—Dr. George
B. Wood, President of the American Philo-
sophical Society, having noticed that his peach
trees, after producing a few crops, ceased hear-
ing, and died in a few years, and believing that
the cause of decay was worms at the roots of the
tree, put into operation a plan for the destruc-
tion of the worms. He dug holes five or six
inches deep at the base of the stem, scraped
away all worms that could be found, and filled
u with wood ashes fresh from the stove, which,
of) course, contained all the potash. This was
done in the autumn, and with a result in the fol-
lowing spring at which he was astonished. The
trees appeared to have been restored to all their
early freshness and vigor—:put forth bright green
leaves, blossomed copiously, and bore a heavy
crop of fruit.

PEA RS. —-The best soil for the pear is a mod~
erately heavy, sandy, and dry soil, with a sub-
soil of light clay which is easily penetrated by

 

FARM ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRY.

the roots to a great depth; a moderate portion
of iron in the soil is desirable. The best srtua-
tion is an undulating eastern or southern expo-
sure. The best fertilizers, as in the case of the
apple, are barn-yard manure, lime, and bone-
dust. Iron cinders are a good application when
there is a deficienc of that element in the soil.

PEANUT CU -TURE.—It requires about
two bushels to plant an acre. Well cured seeds
are essential. The soil selected should be fri-
able and light; red or chocolate-colored scils
stain the nuts and impair their value. Land
that has been in corn, or other hoed crops, ex-
cept sweet potatoes, is preferred, and if it has
not been heavily marled for previous crops, may
be dressed with 150 bushels of marl or 50 bush-
els of lime to the acre. These may be sown
broadcast or strewed in the furrow over which
the beds are to be raised. The soil of a peanut
farm requires to be continually renewed by very
heavy dressings of marsh mud, woods litter and
lime, and the putting of a piece of land in order
for a single crop costs a good deal more per
acre than is required to purchase good cotton
land in the South. It is a very exhausting crop
—it is therefore customary not to take a crop of
peanuts from land oftener than once in three-

ears.

PRUNING.——The practice of indiscriminate
lopping off of limbs, large and small, is the
cause of disease and a weakening of the consti-
tution of the tree, which in numberless cases
leads to premature death. It has been found in
nine cases out of every ten, where a branch of
considerable size had been taken off it would
leave a rotten spot in the tree. In a great many
varieties of the apple tree, where any incision is
made in the tree, there is a liability to decay and
rot. The tree may, and perhaps in most cases
will, heal over this, but a diseased spot is left
in the tree, and hence to that extent is left in an
unhealthy state. And the more these spots are
multiplied, the more is the tree weakened and
diseased.

PLANTS, H0 USE.—See “ Gardening—
(Window).”

PLANTS, (Haul?) LICE 01V, To Destroy.
-—Take some of the common fine-cut smoking
tobacco, strong, and sprinkle it over the top of
the earth about the plant, and keep the plant
well watered. The strength of the tobacco now
passes through the earth and about the roots,
and is just as sure to kill all creeping things as
it is used and is a great benefit to the plant.
These worms, etc., die, and with the strength of
the tobacco form a most valuable manure for the
plant, and those using it will find that the plant
will soon show much more vigor and begin to
grow very fast.

PLANTS, Boxtrfir Sz‘arting.—There is not
any better for this purpose than paper Foxes.
To make these boxes, cut strips of thick paper
about 6 inches wide and I7 long; paste the ends
together, lapping an inch, which will make a
circle 16 inches in circumference; then ress the
sides of the circle together flat, and dongle once,
making a book of four uncut leaves ; now open
with the fingers, pinch down the corners prop-
erly, and a bottomless box 4 inches square is the
result. Place as many of these as are needed
close together in a wooden box, fill with earth,
and sow seeds or prick out the lants. It is

best not to have the box that 1101 the paper,

 

x43

ones so high by 2 inches as they are, as the a-‘
er then does not decay so rapidly as in big er
oxes, and holds the earth together better in

transplanting.

PLANTS, (Outdoor,) LABELS FOR—A
convenient method of preparing outdoor labels
for plants, capable of resisting weather, consists
in first cutting them out of smooth pasteboard,
and writing upon them whatever may be desired
in ordinary ink. When this is dry they are im-
mersed in linseed soil, or, what is still better,
linseed-oil varnish, until they are completely
permeated by the liquid; after which they are
hung in the open air upon threads to dry; they
become like iron, and resist wet for a long time,
and are more durable than slips of metal.

PL UM T HEX—'The plum tree is hardy, and
requires but little attention ; it bears abundantly,
and maybe considered a sure crop when the soil
suits. The best for it is a stiff clay, which is
not suitable to the habits of the curculio, the
great enemy of the lum.

P0 TA T OES, Eart'fiz'ng Ugh—It has been de-
monstrated that earthing up potatoes diminishes
the product, and retards the ripening of the tu~
bers. Long experiments in England have fully
proved this fact—that hilling up the potato will
reduce the crop one-fourth.

POTATOES, RAISING, Under Straw.—
We give an experiment in raising potatoes under
straw, by a noted agriculturist: “ I fitted the
ground as for planting in the old way, by mark-
ing rows one way, three feet apart, and dropped
the potatoes on the mark from eighteen inc es
to two feet apart, covering them slightly with
soil. I then covered to about the depth of ten
inches with old straw, and did nothing more
with them. When the crop was ripe I raked off
the straw, and raked out the potatoes, which
were mostly on the surface, looking very nice,
fresh and large. The result was, I had at the
rate of one hundred and eighty-six bushels per
acre; while the yield from those planted the old
way in drills, and cultivated on ground by the
side of them, was only seventy-five bushels per
acre, which was rather small for this section,
owing to the dry season. The soil is a sandy
loam.”

P0 TA TOES, SWEET—The first week in
June is quite early enough to set out sweet po-
tatoes in northern localities. Where but a very
few are grown, it is much easier and cheaper to
buy the plants than it is to start them. The
carry readily by express. In preparing the soi ,
put upon the level surface a strip of fine manure
a foot wide, and turn two furrows over it to form
a ridge. Dress up the ridge with the spade,
and set the plants about fifteen inches apart.
Unless the soil is moist, water the holes before
setting the plants, which should be set well
down, so that the stalk of the first leaf is cov.
ered. Press the soil firmly around the plants—-
much of the success will depend upon this.
Should the tops wilt and dry up, a new shoot
will spring up if the plant has been set deep
enough. The sides of the ridges should be kept
free of weeds by the proper use of the rake.
The vines will soon get so large as to smother
most of the weeds.

P0 TA T 0 ROT, Bamtt’: Certain Prevent-
ive fir flan—Sow unleached ashes over the field
once a week for six or seven weeks, commencing
soon after the second hoeiug. Apply two or

I44

three bushels to the acre, using care to dust the
tops well.

POTA T0 BUG, (Colorado,) To Destroy.—
A great many preparations have been invented
to destroy this marauder on the potato fields.
The principal ingredient in all is the powdered
paint known as Paris green. Its oisonous ef-
ect upon the plant is obviated by t e admixture
of other ingredients. The Paris green, accord-
ing to price, is more or less pure. If unadulte-
rated, it should be mixed with four, five, or six
times the quantity of meal, flour, ashes, calcined
plaster and lime. The more it can be diluted,
without destroying its efficac , so much the less
expensive it will be, and the ess injurious to the
vines, and also the less dangerous to the op-
erator.

PLO WING AND HARROWING.——Never
plow, if it can be avoided, or go on the ground
or any purpose, when it is wet and sticky; keep
the furrows straight, and, if possible, reverse
them at every plowing, so as to keep the land
level. To fill in furrows, back-furrow pretty
widely once around, and haul once around very
wide; this will generally be sufficient. Harrow
soon after plowing, and before the lumps, if any,
get dried hard; twice over with the teeth down,
and once with the back of the harrow, will pre-
pare the land for ordinary crops.

FLOWS, (thrly,) To Clean—Take a quart
of water and pour slowly into it half a pint of
sulphuric acid. (The mixture will become quite
warm from chemical action, and this is the rea-
son why the acid should be poured slowly into
water, rather than the water into the acid.)
Wash the mould-board (or any other iron that is
rust ) with this weak acid, and let it remain on
the iron until it evaporates. Then wash it once
more. The object is to give time for the acid to
dissolve the rust. Then wash with water, and
you will see where the worst rusty spots are.
Apply some more acid, and rub those spots with
a brick. The acid and the scouring will remove
most of the rust. Then wash the mould-board
thoroughly with water, to remove all the acid,
and rub it dry. Brush it over with petroleum
or other oil, and let it be until spring. When
you go to plowing, take a bottle of the acid wa-
ter to the field, and apply it frequently to any
5 ots of rust that may remain. The acid and
t e scouring of the earth will soon make it very
bright and smooth.

PUMPK'INS A mongst C ORM—Almost all
“ old-fashioned farmers” take a crop of pump—
kins off their corn fields, much to the annoyance
of the theorist who demonstrates to his entire
satisfaction that the one crop must detract from
the full force of the other. But the most careful
experiments show no loss to the corn. The very
same weight results from an acre, with or with-
out thepumpkins.

QUINCES, To Cultivata—The quince ap-
pears to flourish best on a rather stiff and moist
soil, in somewhat sheltered locations. Get the
"' Orange” variety. See that they are entirely
free of the borer before planting. Set eight feet
apart in rich soil. Bandage the stem with two
or three wrappings of muslin, or any kind of
cloth, as far down in the ground as possible, as
the roots start from near the surface. Let this
bandage run six or eight inches above ound,
then pile the soil compactly a couple 0 inches
around the bandage, and renew this early every

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVER Y—DA Y WANTS.

spring. Fine, large golden quinces, rivaling the
laggest oranges, will reward your efforts, annu-
a .

ghould the borer by any means steal in, the
same plan may be adopted for its destruction as
in the apple. Should they, however, get the ad-
vantage of you, and your trees become honey-
combed, set out again young trees, so that by
the time the old ones are gone the young ones
will be finely in bearing.

RADISHES.-—It is said that, when radishes
cannot be grown on account of worms or unsuit-
able soil, if common wheat bran be strewed one
inch thick on any good soil, well hoed in, and
thl seed is then planted, perfect radishes will re
su t.

RAIZV, T a Produce.—Rain is such a nece5a
sity to the success of crops, that whatever will
aid its occasional appearance should be culti-
vated. It has been proved without doubt that
trees do this, for it has been noticed that wher-
ever the country has been denuded of its forests
rains gradually become more infrequent, and
that in parts of the country where formerly there
was little or no rain—as on the western prairies
—and trees have afterward been planted, occa-
sional and copious rains have always resulted.
Farmers should be guided by this fact.

RASPBERRIES.~—Raspberry canes, when
set out, should be planted three feet apart in the
row, and the rows three and a half to four feet
apart. Cut down the canes to within six inches
of the ground and set firmly. Prefer a rather
moist spot for them, and if in the shade a por-
tion of the day so much the better. They can
be planted under fruit trees, where scarcely any-
thing else will grow, and the berry will be much
larger and finer. They like a cool, moist soil,
kept so by liberal mulchin with leaves, light
manure, or any trash, and i a foot in depth it IS
an advantage.

RENZVE T (also called R2m72et.)—The Bava-
rian mode of curing consists in turning out the
contents of the skin of the stomach, wiping off
all specks or dirt with a cloth, and then blowing
up the skin or filling it with air like a bladder.
The ends are tied with a string, and a little salt
applied to this part only. The skin, treated in
this way, soon dries perfectly, and is as sweet
and clean as can be desired. Salt neutralizes in
some degree the action of rennet, therefore the
rennets treated on the Bavarian plan are much
more effective than those cured in the old way.
When the rennets cured on this plan are dry, the
air may be expelled, and the skins can be packed
away in a small space, and are easily kept clear
of insects. The defect in salted rennets is, that
the salt in wet weather accumulates dampness,
and, if care is not taken to keep them in a dry
place, they drip, and thus lose their strength.

REAL/VET, Mode of Urn—The way to _use
rennet is to cut off a bit of suitable size (a piece
an inch square is large enough _to coagulate sev-
eral gallons of milk) and soak it for some hours
in water; then add the whole to the milk, a lit-
tle warmed. The mixture is now very gradually
heated to something above blood-heat, or about
I20°. Very soon it undergoes a great change,
and a solid white curd is separated from the
Whey. . %
KHZ/BARB, Tramplanlznngll rhubar
plants on ht to have a heavy dressmg of manure
every spring, to be forked in, and two or three

 

FARM ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAD? 1’.

hoeings through the season to keep down all the
weeds. It is a great point to have the stalks ten-
der, and to secure this they ought to be grown
rapidly under stimulating manures or a warm,
rich soil. The ground before setting out ought
to be plowed thoroughly and subsoiled or trench-
ed deeply, and, if necessary, drained. Turn un-
der a plenty of well-rotted manure, at the rate
of at least sixty or seventy horse cart loads to
the acre, for the greater the quantity of manure,
the larger and finer will the rhubarb grow, and
the larger and finer it is the more it will bring.
RHUBARB, Transplanting. —Rhubarb roots
require replanting occasionally. If the stools
remain undisturbed for several years, they often
commence to decay in the centre, and after a
while the whole plant becomes diseased. Ever
four or five years the stalks should be lifted and
divided, leaving but one large crown, with its
accompanying roots attached. These may be
again planted in the same soil, or upon some
fresh plat, the latter method being preferable,
although we are not a very strong disciple of the
theory that plants run out if grown for many
years in the same soil.
ROCK S, To Ramona—See “ Boulders.”
RYE, T 0 Cultz'valt.—Rye ought never to be
sown upon wet soils, nor even upon sandy soils
where the subsoil is of a retentive nature. Upon
downs, links, and all soft lands which have re-
ceived manure, this grain thrives in perfection,
and, if once covered in, will stand a drought af-
terwards that would consume any other of the
culmiferous tribe. The several processes may
be regarded as nearly the same with those an-
swering for wheat, with the single exception of
pickling, which rye does not require. Rye may
e sown either in winter or spring, though the
winter-seeded fields are generally bulkiest and
most productive. It may succeed either sum-
mer fallow, clover or turnips; even after oats
good crops have been raised, and where such
crops have been raised the land will always be
found in good condition.

SA GE, To Cultivate.—-Put it out in rows
two feet apart, and the plants a foot apart in the
rows. Cultivate and keep clean; it does well in
sandy soil. Dry in the shade. Put up in square
pound packages hard pressed.

SEED, How to Select—It is of very great
importance that the farmer, whose desire it is to
have splendid grain and root crops, be very care-
ful in his choice and selection of seed. He will
see to it that they are large, plump, perfect, and
of uniform size. In the selection of many seeds
it will pay the farmer to carefully examine with
a powerful magnifying glass, and reject all that
do not meet the above requirements.

SEED CORN—In shelling com for seed,

’ discard the buts and tips, using only the central
portion of each ear, as the early blade and! root

,are in size in proportion to the kernel used; and.
a plant from the large grains of the centre of the;

ear will get the start and keep ahead of the
small ones from the tip. And especially select:
from cars that have the grains as near uniformly
large as possible.

SEED BARLE K—The best is that which
is free from blackness at the tail, and is of a pale
Iiyely yellow, intermixed with a bright, whitish
cast, and if the rind should be a little shrivelled,
smuch the better, as it indicates a very thin
‘ .

14$

SEED 0.4 T S.—-Place your cats in a heap
at the leeward end of the threshing floor on a
day when a gentle breeze is blowing through the
barn. Take a common wooden flour-scoop, and
throw the oats against the wind, towards the
other end. of the floor. A few minutes’ experi-
ence will enable you to throw them so that they
will fall in a semi-circle at anearly uniform dis.
tance from where you stand. The oats which
fall farthest from you are the best for seed, and
are to be carefully swept together as fast as they
accumulate in considerable quantities.

SEED [’0 TA TOES.—-Be careful to secure
large, sound, and well-ripened seed ; cut the
large potato into pieces of one eye. Begin at
the butt end; cut towards the centre, leaving a
due proportion of the potato with each eye. Po-
tatoes inadvertently left undug, if they do not
freeze during winter, invariably produce sound
“ones, larger and more abundant than those ke t
in the cellar through winter. This has late y
suggested the plan of keeping potatoes excluded
from the air from the time of digging and plant-
ing, which has been found to invariably prevent

rot.

SEED I/VHEA T—Seed wheat should not
only be thoroughly cleaned from the seeds of
weeds, but small grains should be taken-out with
a separator or suitable fanning mill, leaving only
the largest, plumpest, and earliest ripened ker-
nels.

SEED, How to Text Me Vitality of——By plac-
ing almost any of the larger seeds and grains on
a hot pan or griddle, where the vitality is per-
fect the grain will pop, or crack open with more
or less noise. Where the vitality is defective or
lost, it lies immovable in the vessel.

SEED, T 0 Improve All Sorta—Charles Mil-
ler, son of the celebrated botanist, published a
recipe for fertilizing seed, and tried it on wheat,
by mixing lime, nitre, and pigeon’s dung in wa-
ter, and therein steeping the seed. The produce
of some of these grains is stated at sixty, sev-
enty, and eighty stems, many of the ears five
inches long, and fifty corns each, and none less
than forty.

SLUGS AND SNAILS.——These are great
enemies to every kind of garden plant, whether
flower or vegetable ; they wander in the night to
feed, and return at daylight to their haunts; the
shortest and surest direction is : “ Rise early,
catch them, and kill them.” If you are an early
riser, you may cut them off from their day re.
treats, or you may lay cabbage leaves about the
ground, especially on the beds which they fre-
quent. Ever morning examine these leaves,
and you will find a great many taking refuge be-
neath; if they plague you very much, search
for their retreat, which you can find by their
slimy track, and hunt there for them day by day.
Lime and salt are very'annoying to snails and
slugs; a pinch of salt kills them, and they will
‘not touch fresh lime; it is a common practice to
“sprinkle lime over young-ere s, and along the
‘edges of beds, about rows 0 ~' peas and beans,
lettucesand‘ other vegetables; but when it has
been: on the ground some days, or has been
moistened by rain, it loses its strength.

SM U T [N WHEA T, Remedy fan—Soak
the seed wheat in brine, and then dust it with
unslaked lime. This will prove a perfect pre-
vention.

SORGIIUM C ULT (AER-The soil unifi-

 

_ growth.

146

mate suitable for the cultivation of corn is well
adapted to the growth of sorghum, but a rich up-
land loam will yield the richest juice. The land
should be well worked, and kept clean, it requi-
ring about the same treatment as corn. It may
be either planted in hills or drills. As the cane
is a very deep-rooted plant, it is very essential
that the land should be made mellow to a good
depth, but the seed should be covered very shal~
low, not more than half inch deep. It should
be planted about the same time as corn. The
young plants when they first come up look like

lades of fall grass ; they are of slow growth and
feeble appearance for some time, or until the hot
weather of July and August, when the plants
will go far ahead of corn in a rank and healthy
It appears to delight in hot, dry weath-
er, as its roots penetrate deep. Drouth does not
affect it as it does corn; it is surprising to see at
what a rate it will develop itself after the hot
weather has come. It is also very hardy, and
may be transplanted with entire safety. There
is a difference of opinion in regard to keeping
the suckers pulled off. Experience shows that,
although we may lose a little in quantity, it is
more than made up in the quality of the syrup;
therefore have a deep, mellow soil for the roots
to penetrate in search of food by thoroughly cul-
tivating it during the early stage of its growth;
but avoid deep plowing after the cane has once
acquired considerable size. as the roots then fill
the ground, and if severed the plants are greatly
dwarfed; keep the suckers off, and be sure and
not let a weed show its head.

SORREL, To Remove. This field pest may
be eradicated by the judicious application of ei-
ther lime or ashes. The souring principle of
sorrel is oxalic acid; if this be removed from the
soil, sorrel cannot grow. Lime or potash unite
with the oxalic acid, forming oxalate of lime or
tpotash. These substances are sometimes called
sweeteners of the soil, from their ability to re-
move acids from it. Sorrel will never grow on
lime soil.

SQUASII, Cullivatz'on (If—The squash, be-
ing a tropical vegetable, requires much care and
attention in northern latitudes in order to be cul-
tivated with success. Of all the varieties tested,
the “ Hubbard” has proved to be the very best
for winter. The planting should be done as
early in the spring as possible after the weather
becomes sufficiently warm, so that there will be
no danger of frost nipping the young plants, as
they are very tender. A few hills can be plant-
ed earlier, and covered with hay or straw when
there is danger of frost; in fact, if the season is
late, it will pay well to plant a goodly patch and
protect them in that way, for a very few young
pants will cover a wide space of ground, when
0 .

The land should be made deep and rich, the
richer the better, particularly in the hills; the
best manure being composted hen-droppings.
The soil should contain a sufficient amount of
sand to make it quick and warm, and a piece of
land should be selected sloping well to the south
so that the rays of the springsun can be quickly
felt by the young plants.

Plant in rows at least 16 'feet apart, in bills
from 8 to 10 feet; putting from 2 to 3 seeds in
a hill, and when well started thin out to 1 plant.
Cultivate thoroughly all the ground between the
rows, as well as around the plants, until the vines

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

cover the ground. If the above hints are fol-
lowed a good crop will result.

STRA WBERR Y C UL T URE.—F0r this
fruit the most suitable soil is light and sandy.
It maybe enriched by ashes, bone, barnyard
manure, etc. The plants should be set one foot
apart, in rows two feet from each other. Put
in the young plants from the middle of August
to the middle of September. Keep the ground
mellow and free from weeds. In the following
spring manure and hoe the ground well, to keep
it moist and free from weeds. With such care,
a quart of fruit has sometimes been picked from
one plant, the next season after planting. Some
cultivators prefer to cut off all the blossoms the
first 5 ring, so as to strengthen the plants for
growt i.

S T RA WBERR Y PLANTS, Prottdz'ng.—
In latitudes where snows fall about the first of
~December, and remain on the ground all winter,
no other protection to strawberry plants is need-
ed; but in all other sections of the country, some
slight covering is necessary, as poor hay, straw,
leaves, or the coarse barn-yard litter, that is al-
ways thrown out of stables with manure. For
garden plats of plants barn-yard litter, mixed
with manure, is the best protection that can be
used, acting as a fertilizer at the same time, by
being drenched with rain. In field cultivation of
strawberries, near the ocean, salt hay makes a.
cheap and good protection. Rye straw is very
good, but more expensive than salt bay. The
plants should be covered but slightly, about two
inches deep with whatever may be used. If it
is put on thicker there is liability to smother the
plants. Early in December is a good time to
mulch strawberry plants, if not done before.

STUfllPS, To Reillo’I/tr—OHC method is as
follows: In the fall of the year bore a I inch
hole 18 inches deep into the centre of the stump
and put in an ounce of salt etre, filling up wit
water, and plugging the ho e up. In the spring
take out the plug, put in half a ill of kerosene
and set fire to it. It will burn t e stump out to
its farthest root. Here is another plan : In the
fall, with an inch auger bore ahole in the centre
of the stump 10 inches deep, and put into it a
(V; lb. of oil of vitriol, and cork the hole up very
tight. In the spring the whole stump and roots
extending all through their ramifications will be
found so rotten that they can be easily eradi-

cated.

S T Ufl/P MACHINE (Ham: Made. )--Take
3 pieces of common joists, put them together in
form like the common barrow, letting the taper-
ing ends lap by each other some 6 inches, mak-
ing a place for the chain to rest in. Cut off the
roots at any distance you please from the stump,
place the machine on one side of the stump, ta-
pering end up; hitch the chain on the op osrte
side and pass it over the machine; then hitch a
good yoke of oxen thereto, and you Will see the
stump rise.

SUBSOILING.—The subsoil plow has now
become one of the most important implements
u on the fann. It is used to run in the bottom
of) the furrow before the potato is dropped, to
loosen the earth under the seed, to admit the air,
and after the potatoes are up a one-horse subsorl
plow is run between the rows,. and, when prop.
erly done, it is equal to trenching With a spade
It ‘is also run between the rows_ of cornhwhen
the corn is about four inches high. This will

 

FARAI, ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRY.

lift the soil slightly, and also the young corn
lants, but will not separate the particles of
earth from the roots. This will be a more thor-
ough disturbance of the soil than a dozen hoe-
ings, and will permit the corn roots to descend
in search of food. In raising carrots, beets and
turnips, in heavy ground, it is almost indispen-
sable. ,
SUGAR, Nan Mode of Making—A new way
of extracting the juice from sugar cane has been
practiced at Aska, in India, during the past few
years. It is founded upon what 15 known as the
“ diffusion” process of extracting the saccharine
matter from beet roots, and which is in use .m
about one hundred and fifty beet sugar factories
in Europe; it consists substantially in washing
out the sugary juice by soaking in ‘water. The
cane is cut by machinery into thin transverse
slices, which, when treated with water, yield a
bright yellow liquid, that on boiling yields very
little scum, and which, provided the cane be ful-
ly ripe and in good condition, does not require
to be filtered through animal charcoal, but can
be transferred at once to the evaporators and
vacuum pans for the fabrication of a good grade
of raw su ar.

S UNFLO WER, T Ira—The sunflower is very
useful. Its leaves soon become large enough to
be used as a covering for young cabbage and to—
mato plants. Its stem affords an excellent hop
or bean pole, and when dead in the fall, if out
up and kept dry, it answers well for kindling-
wood. The leaves can be plucked off through
the summer without injury to the plant, and then
dried for fodder, or feed green to milch-cows or
horses. Its seeds make a fine oil, or chicken
feed. It is said to be an absorbent of malaria,
and is often cultivated as a preventive of fevers
near dwellings that occupy low places. Plant
in drills 4 feet apart, and 18 inches in the drill,
requiring 2 quarts of seed per acre. Many of
the stalks grow I6 feet high. They want rich
land. From 8 to 10 tons of leaves have been
gathered from an acre. The first leaves are gen-
erally pulled in July, going up 3 or 4 feet high.
The next pulling is as high as a man can reach,
putting a dozen bundles in a shock, as soon as
the seed glazes. In winter the seed is threshed
with a flail, the main heads reserved for seed,
and the small ones threshed separately. The
main heads gave thirty-one bushels per acre, and
the small ones sixteen bushels——forty—seven per

acre.
TIIIS T LES, CANA DA .—To effectually
destroy Canada thistles, allow them to grow un-
til about the middle of June; their vitality has
then greatly expended itself; then plow the land
deeply and well, and afterwards harrow fine and
level ; then, and during the remainder of the
season, horse-hoe with such a horse-hoe that
cannot possibly miss one top of a thistle, first
one way, then across, and again, until the sea-
son for growth has entirely gone by. Another
method is, after the land is well saturated with
moisture, draw them by hand with stout gloves,
with a piece of old sacking sewed over the palm,
to prevent the plant from slipping when the
gloves become wet. With a ver little care, the
, thistle may be drawn with 6 or g inches of the
root; and you will be rid of the nuisance in two
seasons.
TIMBER, To Text Me Soundnm- q/l—Large
flees of valuable timber are frequently unsound

 

'47

—either hollow, “ dozy,” or full of cracks at the
butt-end, even when the external appearance ill—-
dicates a good condition of the interior or heart.
This is particularly the case with white-oak tim.
ber. Large and valuable trees have frequently
been purchased at an exorbitant price for some
special purpose. But when the woodman’s ax
had made a kerf half-way to the middle of the
butt, the interior was found to be dozy or hol-
low, rendering the timber wholly worthless for
the purposes intended.

In order to determine whether the heart of a
tree is defective, without cutting into it with an
ax, the most expeditious way is to bore into the
butt, say one foot from the surface of the ground,
with a two-inch auger, drawing out the chips
frequently for examination. In case the tree is .
of so large dimensions that the heart cannot be
reached with an auger of ordinary length, an
iron rod one or more feet long may be attached,
either by welding, or by means of a socket made
in the rod to fit the shank of the auger. An au-
ger-hole near the ground will not injure a tree
for timber, except in case it is to be employed
for sleigh-runners or for ship-building.

TIMBER, Best Time for Cutting—The
best time to cut timber is in midsummer, just
after the sap has ceased to flow upward, when
the leaf is fully formed. Some contend that
midwinter is equally as good, but while contend-
ing that timber cut in midsummer lasts well, we
may say from experience, and according to the
authorities on the subject, that the former time
is best. Again, by cutting in midsummer, the
bark can be stripped off and saved, which, in
many localities, is a matter of great importance.
This is a difficult thing to do in winter, as then
it clings closely to the wood.

T RA NSPLA N T [N G.—-—The frozen-ball way
of removing ornamental trees is preferred by a
great many to all others for some purposes. It
is well adapted to evergreens growing wild, if
they are of much size. In order that it may be
easilyand expeditiously performed, preparations
should be made in autumn,or before the ground
freezes hard, by digging a trench in the shape of
a circle about every tree a foot deep, or as far
down as the frost penetrates, and then filling
these trenches with dead leaves, which are gen-
erally very abundant indeed at that time of the
year in the borders of woods, or wherever these
trees are sought.

The leaves will prevent the trenches from ever
freezing in winter, and the earth within them
being frozen hard, the trees are easily loosened
and tipped over, and may then be readily trans-
ferred to sleds and conveyed to their place of
destination, where holes, dug at the same time
that the trenches were made, and similarly filled
with leaves if convenient, or left open and froze,
may receive them. If holes and balls are both
frozen hard, and are nearly equal in size, the
first thaw will soften the ball and give it a close
fit. But it is rather better to keep the hole un-
frozen, so that the balls may be snugly imbedded
in the mellow earth when placed there.

T RA NSPLA N T [N G, Position of TrttJ.—Thc
theory has been broached that trees bend toward
the east, and that in transplanting them care
should be taken to set them in the same osition,

» relative to the points of the compass, t at they

had before transplanting.
T RANSPLA N T ING During flu [Vigila-

‘48 DICTIONAR 1’ OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

A gentleman, anxious to ascertain the effect of
transplanting at night, instead of by da , made
an experiment with the following results: He
transplanted ten cherry trees while in bloom,
commencing at four o’clock in the morning.
Those transplanted during the daylight shed
their blossoms, producing little or no fruit, while
those planted in the dark maintained their con-
dition fully. He did the same with ten dwarf
trees, aflerthe fruit was one-third grown. Those
transplanted during the day shed their fruit;
those transplanted during the night perfected
their crop, and showed no injury from having
been removed. With each of these trees he re-
moved some earth with the roots. The inci«
dent is fully vouched for, and if a few more sim‘
liar experiments produce a like result, it will be
a strong argument to horticulturists, etc., to do
such work at night.

TRANSPORTA TION 0F VEGETA-
BLES, Rule: fora—The first principle to be
observed is the packing, and the main point in
this is ventilation.

Onions and potatoes should be fully matured
before shipment, for’ if they are not fully ma-
tured and packed dry, they will easily rot. Do
not expose them long to the sun to dry, but as
they become dry pack them, for the sun will
burn them.

Tomatoes should be pulled just on the turn to
ripen. If they are pulled too green they will
rot before they will ripen, and if pulled ripe they
will rot before they reach their destination.

Cucumbers, peas and beans should be ripe,
but not enough to be l'nable to turn yellow, they
being saleable only while having a green color.

Citron melons should be shipped green—
nearly matured.

Watermelons should be ripe.

Onions, tomatoes, cucumbers, peas and beans
should be shipped in bushel crates.

Potatoes should be shipped in barrels well
ventilated. Bore at least three holes an inch in
diameter in each stave, and several in the bot-
tom. Cover with stout cloth covers, and cooper
the barrels.

Cull the Irish and sweet potatoes well before
shipment, and the culls can be shipped marked
“ culls.” They will bring half price. If they
are shipped mixed in with large potatoes they
will injure the sale of them. Every one will
find it advantageous to ship good quality stuff.

Water melons and Citron melons can be ship-
ped in three bushel crates, made the same as the
bushel crate, but much stronger.

Always fill the crates well, packing the articles
tightly, so they cannot shake about, and they
will not rot as quick as they would if they could
shake about.

TREES, (SHADE,) Best to Plant—A
moderate number of trees are necessary on ev-
ery farm, both for shelter and shade. Some
farms have been completely denuded by the ax
of the woodmhopper, and, as screens and shade
trees are almost indispensable, the most desira-
ble and profitable are black walnut and sugar
maple. The walnuts will bear abundantly in 8
or 10 years from the time of planting, and the
timber will be increasing in value every year.
The sugar maple is a beautiful shade, and its
product is exceedingly valuable. It is a good
plan to raise the trees in some corner of the or-
chard or garden until they have become strong.

. and the same distance apart in the rows.

 

TREES, OAK—The process of deforestiiig
our lands upon the Atlantic border has gone on
for centuries, and in the very populous States
has necessitated replanting. It is a fact not suf-
ficiently known, that oaks may be rapidly grown,
and will develop, within an ordinary lifetime,
fine groves of those noble trees which give so
much dignity to an old homestead. Major Ben.
Perley Poore has upon his estate in Massachu-
setts, a splendid oak forest or wood of 30 acres,
every acorn for which was planted by himself 30
years ago. The trunks of the trees are now 1%
feet in diameter.

T 0/1 DS. —Toads are among the best friends
the gardener has; for they live almost exclu-
sively on the most destructive kinds of vermin.
Unsightly, therefore, though they may be, they
should on all accounts be encouraged; they must
never be touched nor molested in any way; on
the contrary, places of shelter should be made
for them, to which they may retire from the heat
of the sun. If you have none in your garden,
it will be quite worth your while to search for
them in your walks, and bring them home, tak-
ing care to handle them carefully, for although
they have neither the will nor the power to in-
jure you, a very little rough treatment will in-
jure them.

TOMA T0 PLANTS, To Raisin—Make a
hot bed in the customary way about 3x6 feet.
On about 3 square feet at one end, sow your seed
H6 of an inch thick; cover with % an inch of
rich, sifted soil. When the plants are 3 inches
high, make a trench across the bed, leaving one
side at an angle of 52 degrees. Wet theplants
so that they can be taken up without injuring the
roots. Place them in the trench 2 inches apart.
Cover them up to the last leaves by making an-
other trench so near that the rows of plants will
be 3 inches apart. When they are from 4 to 6
inches high transplant them into the garden, ta-
king care not to injure the roots. Plants raised
as above directed will be very stocky, will not
wilt when transplanted, and will ripen their fruit.
before frost comes.

TOMA TOES, C ullivation ofl—Set your to-
mato plants in rows three and a half feet apiré,t
the rows be of an even number, and, if possi-
ble, running north and south, for the better ad.
vantage of the sunshine.

Now, beginning with the first couple of rows,

at one end set a pair of stakes in such manner
that they will enter the ground just outSide of
the line of the rows, and cross each other at the
height of about four feet over the. middle space.
Set corresponding stakes at the oppOSite end of
the rows, and also intermediate ones, if neces-
sar .
This done, along the outside of these sloping
stakes fasten horizontal strips of edging, begin-
ning with the first about eight inches from the
ground, and finishing with the one which Will
run in the crossing of the stakes. .

As the plants grow, carefully. train them oyer
this framework, securing them in place by tying
with strings, and judiciously trimming when
needed. .

After the crop is removed in the fall, the ma.
terial of this simple structure may be eaSily ta-
ken apart and laid away for use the coming and
subsequent seasons.

TOMA T 0153, French Made of Cultivating.

“ma-1:.»

FARM ORCHARD, GARDEN AND DAIRY.

——The French method is as follows , As soon as
acluster of flowers is visible they top the stem
down to the clusters, so that the flowers termi-
nate the stem. The effect is, that the sap is im-
mediately impelled into the two buds next below
the cluster, which soon push strongly and pro-
duce another cluster of flowers each. When
these are visible the branch to which they be«
long is also topped down to their level, and this
is done five times in succession. By this means
the plants become stout, dwarf bushes, not over
eighteen inches high. In addition to this, all
the laterals whatsoever are nipped off. In this
way the ripe sap is directed into the fruit, which
acquires a beauty, size and excellence unattain-
able by any other means.

TURNIP CULTURE. —The most desira-
ble soil for the cultivation of this root is a sandy
loam free from stagnant water—one easily culti-
vated to a considerable depth, notwithstanding
that a heavier crop may occasionally be obtained
from a clay loam.

Early in the fall the land intended for turnips
should receive a heavy coating of farmyard ma-
nure, and be deeply plowed; cross-plowed in
the spring about the end of May or the begin-
ning of June, harrowed and rolled until a fine
tilth is secured. Getting the soil into a finely
divided state is a matter of the highest import-
ance. It is a well established fact that all soils

have the power of absorbing and retaining to a t

greater or less degree a certain amount of moi-
sture, and the more finely divided and thor-
oughly pulverized the land, the greater amount
of moisture will it absorb and retain. It would
be very difficult to state absolutely when is the
best time to sow, inasmuch as soils and seasons
vary. On clay or clay loam perhaps the most
desirable time is from the fifth to the fifteenth of
June, and on sandy loams from the tenth to the
twentieth of that month. The quantity of seed
required per acre will also vary with the weath-
er. In damp weather, on sandy soils, 2 lbs. is
ample, and on clay loam, and in weather ordi-
narily dry, it will be well to use 3 lbs. or more.
The depth of the seed should be from I to 1%
inches below the surface. It is better for plants
to come up thickly, for they grow faster than
when thin, and are more apt to escape the rav-
ages of the fly; and, moreover, they require
immediate attention as soon as they are large
enough to thin. Sowing upon drills is altogether
preferable to sowing on the level ; not only can
a much larger crop be produced, but the weeds
are far more easily destroyed. The distance be»
tween the drills should be from 26 to 30 inches,
and the plants should be left, by thinning, 12 to
1.5 inches apart. When a good braird has been
secured, the great secret of success is in stirring
the soil frequently when dry, and keeping the
ground perfectly free from noxious weeds.
CONS, To Greases—But few people are
aware that they do wagons and carriages more
Injury by greasing too plentifully than in almost
any other way. A well made wheel will endure
common wear from ten to twenty-five years, if
care is taken to use the right kind and proper
amount of grease; but if this matter is not at-
tended to, they will be used up in five or six
years. Lard should never be used on a wagon,
for it will dpenetrate the hub, and work its way
out aroun the tenons of the spokes, and spoil
the wheel. Tallow is the best lubricator for

 

«49

wood axle trees, and castor oil for iron. Just .
enough grease should be applied to the spindle
of a wagon to give it a light coating; this is bet~
ter than more, for the surplus put on will work
out at the ends, and be forced by the shoulder
bands and nut washers into the hub around the
outside of the boxes. To oil an iron axle tree,
first wipe the spindle clean with a cloth wet with
spirits of turpentine, and then apply a few drops
of castor oil near the shoulder and end. One
teaspoonful is sufficient for the whole.
WALNUT T REE.—The most common
mode is to propagate from the nut or .seed. It
is also propagated by a species of grafting called
“marching,” by budding, and by grafting by
the “ approach” method. In any common fer-
tile soil the walnut will succeed, but it thrives
best in a good depth of loam, mixed with sand
or gravel. Those who intend planting walnuts
should procure plants from the nursery, either
marched or budded, and in as advanced a stage
of growth as is compatible with their safe re-
moval. Plants from 8 to 12 years old may be
safely removed, if properly prepared by previous
transplantation. Plants for fruiting should be
planted 20 feet distant from each other. The
usual period at which they commence bearing is
18 or 20 years. The fruit is produced on the
extremities of the previous year’s shoots, and
should be gathered so as not to injure the

ree.
WEEDS, To Destroy—Annual weeds, or
such as spring from seed and die the same year,
are most easily destroyed. For this purpose it
will be sufl'icient to let them spring up till near
the time of ripening their seed, and then plow
them down before it comes to maturity. It is
also of service to destroy such weeds as grow in
borders or neglected corners, and frequently
scatter their seeds to a great distance—such as
the thistle, dandelion, rag weed, etc., for these
propagate their species through a deal of ground,
as their seeds are carried about with the wind to
very considerable distances. A farmer ought
also to take care that the small seeds of weeds,
separated from corn in winnowing, be not sown
again upon the ground; for this certainly hap-
pens when they are thrown upon a dunghill, be.
cause, being the natural oflspring of the earth,
they are not easilydestroyed. The best method
of preventing any mischief from this cause is to
burn them. Perennial weeds are such as are
propagated by the roots, and last for a number
of years. They cannot be effectually destroyed
but by removing the roots from the ground,
which is often a matter of some difficulty. The
only method that can be depended upon in this
case is frequent plowing, to render the ground
as tender as possible, and harrowing with a par-
ticular kind of harrow, in order to collect these
pernicious roots. When collected, they ought
to be dried and burnt, as the only effectual way
of insuring their doing no farther mischief.
WEEDS 11V WALKS, T o Destroy—A
most efficient agent for the destruction of weeds,
and one that is not expensive, can be made by
boiling 4 lbs. of arsenic and 8 lbs. of soda in 12
gallons of water. To every gallon of this boil-
ing mixture 3 gallons of cold water should be
added, and the liquid carefully s rinkled over
the walks while it is yet warm. t is desirable
to do this in fine weather, and when the walks
are dry, so that the weeds and weed-seeds may

150

D! C TIONAR Y OF E VER Y—DA Y WANTS.

 

have the full benefit of the a plication. Care
must be taken not to let any 0 the liquid fall on
the leaves or reach the root of any plants it is
not desired to kill. In 24 hours after the poison
is put on the walks every weed will he killed;
and, if it be once thoroughly done, it will keep
the walks clean through the whole season.

WHEA T, T a Prevent Mildew in.—Dissolve
three ounces and two drachms of sulphate of
copper, copperas, or blue vitriol, in three gallons
and three quarts, wine measure, of cold water,
for every three bushels of grain that is to be pre-

ared. Into another vessel, capable of contain-
ing from fifty—three to seventy-nine wine gallons,
throw from three to four bushels of wheat, into
which the prepared liquid is poured, until it rises
five or six inches above the grain. Stir it thor-
oughly, and carefully remove all that swims on
the surface. After it has remained half an hour
in the preparation, throw the wheat into a bas-
ket that will allow the water to escape, but not
the grain. It ought then to be immediately
washed in rain, or pure water, which will pre-
vent any risk of its injuring the germ, and after-
wards the seed ought to be dried before it is put
in the ground. It may be preserved in this
shape for months.

WHEA T, T a Prevent Rust in.—Some hours
—-at the longest six or eight before sowing—pre-
pare a steep of three measures of powdered
(lipuicklime, and ten measures of cattle urine.

our two quarts of this upon a peck of wheat,
stir with a spade until every kernel is covered
white with it. By using wheat so prepared,
rust of every kind will be avoided. I have of—
ten noticed, while in the neighboring fields, a
great part of the crop is affected by rust; in
mine, lying closely by it, not a single ear so af-
fected could be found.

The same writer says he takes the sheaves and
beats off the ripest kernels with a stick, and uses
the grain thus obtained for seed.

WHEAT, (Slug: Upon,) T o Destroy—Col-
lect a number of lean ducks, keep them all day
without food, and turn them into the field to-
wards evening; each duck would devour the
slugs much faster than a man could collect them,
and they soon would get very fat for market.

W ORAL (CUT) T a D::troy.—The climbing
out worm is the larva of moth known as the
Lance Rustic, and is quite common all over the
country. If you will place old rags about the
stems of young peach trees, the worms will hide
under them in daytime, and can thus be caught
and destroyed. A few rags, or some similar
material, placed on the ground near each tree,
will also answer as a trap. These traps should
be examined every morning, and the worms
killed. We do not know of a better method of
destroying them, as the worms work all night,
while their natural enemies, or a portion of
them, are asleep.

WORM CURRANT—A multitude of de-
vices have been tried for destroying this pest.
Some persons, who have only a few bushes, suc-

ceed by hand-picking and burning; others by

 

dusting the leaves with lime; others by burning
smudges of old leather and sulphur under the
bushes ; others by dusting the leaves with pow-
dered hellebore, using for this purpose a tin box
perforated at the top like a pepper-caster. The
latter method has been found very successful.
Another method is with a solution of copperas,
made at the rate of I lb. of copperas to 6 gals.
of water, and sprinkled on the bushes through
a common watering-pot. This is cheaper than
hellebore, and does not annoy the operator. It
is sure and speedy death to the worm, and does
no harm to the bushes. The Scotch method of
treatment is with soot. When soot is dusted on
the bushes after a slight shower has fallen, or
after the leaves have been wetted, the vermin
will soon drop of? the leaves and perish. The
application of a sprinkling of dry soot round the
roots of bushes, when early digging operations
are being proceeded with in spring, will act most
successfully in preventing their appearance; and
this, resorted to in successive seasons, will en-
tirely extirpate the pests.

W 016/11, PEA CIT—It is said that a mixture
of one ounce of saltpetre and seven ounces of
salt, applied on the surface of the ground, in
contact and around the trunk of a peach tree
seven years old and upwards, will destroy the
worm, prevent the yellows, and add much to the
product and quality of the fruit.

WOUNDS 1N TREES, To Heal.—Make a
varnish of common linseed oil, rendered very
drying by boiling it for the space of an hour,
with an ounce of litharge to each pound of oil,
mixed with calcined bones, pulverized and sifted
to the consistence of an almost liquid paste.
With this paste the wounds are to be covered
by means of a brush, after the bark and other
substance have been pared, so as to render the
whole as smooth and even as possible. This
varnish must be applied in dry weather, in order
that it may attach itself properly.

See also “ Liquid Grafting Wax.”

YAM, CH1NESE.—In the first place, send
off to get the tubers or seed, if you cannot ob-
tain the roots; however, the roots are better.
Cut the roots in two slices, from one-half to one
inch in length, according to their size, and plant
in the spring in rows two and ahalf feet one
way by six inches apart in the row—one piece in
a place, and cover three inches in depth; culti-
vate to keep clear of weeds, and the following
spring dig up one-quarter of the bed, taking up
the one-yearvold roots, and cut them mto pieces
and plant a new bed, and thus have a supply of
two-year-old roots that may be dug each fall and
placed in the cellar for winter use. For cook-
ing purposes they are excellent, apparently‘par-
taking of the general nourishing characteristics
of the arrowroot as well as the potato. They
will keep well, without rotting, all Winter. If
thought best the roots can remain in the ground
all winter, and be allowed to grow three or four
years, and thus grow to an enormous Slle. . But
most land without plowing for two years Will get
hard and full of weeds.

 

HOUSEHOLD MISCELLANY.

HOUSEHOLD MISCELLANY.

ALABASTER, To Clema—I. Wash with
soap suds. If stained, whitewash the stains ;
let the whitewash remain on several hours, then
clean it ofl'.—2. Take ground pumice stone of
the finest quality, and mix it up with verjuice;
let it stand for two hours, then dip in a sponge
and rub the alabaster therewith; wash it with a
linen cloth and fresh water, and dry it with clean
linen rags.

BEDS, Care of.—The care of beds is not un-
derstood, even by some good housewives ; when
a bed is freshly made it often smells strong.
Constant airing will, if the feathers are good,
and only new, remove the scent. A bed in con-
stant use should be invariably beaten and shaken
up daily, to enable the feathers to renew their
elasticity. It should lie, after it is shaken up,
for two or three hours in awell-ventilated room.
If the bed is in a room which cannot be spared
so long, it should be put out to air two full days
of the week. In airing beds the sun should not
shine directly upon them. It is air, not heat,
which they need. We have seen beds lying on
a roof where the direct and reflected rays of the
sun had full power, and the feathers, without
doubt, were stewing, and the oil in the quill be-
coming rancid, so that the bed smells worse af-
ter airing than before. Always air beds in the
shade on cool and windy days. F eatherbeds
should be opened every three or four years, the
ticks washed, the seams soaped and waxed, and
the feathers renovated.

Feathers were never intended for human be-
ings to sleep on. They are always without ex-
ception debilitating. Straw, corn husks, com-
pressed sponge, or curled hair, should always be
used in preference.

BLACK LEAD, To Remove—To remove
black lead from polished steel sides of a grate,
first wash them with strong soap and water, using
a bit of old flannel for the purpose ; then rub
‘them with sweet oil and rotten stone; afterwards
polish in the usual manner with soft leather.

BLANKE TS, To Clam—When soiled they
should be washed, and not scoured, which latter
they will be if sent to the scourer’s. Shake all
the dust from them, plunge them into plenty of
hot soap-suds, let them lie till the hands can be
borne in the water, wash quickly, rinse in new
clean hot suds, shake thoroughly, stretch well,
dry, and they will be as nice as new.

BRASS, T o Clean.—-—Rotten stone 2 oz., ox-
alic acid % oz., sweet oil % of an oz., turpen-
tine enough to make a paste. Apply it with a
little water.

BRASS ORNAMENTS, To Clean.-——Brass
ornaments, that have not been gilt or lacquered,
may be cleaned, and a very brilliant color given
to them, by washing them with alum boiled in
strong lye, in the proportion of an ounce to a
pint,1and afterward rubbing them with a strong
tri o i.

BOARDS, T 0 Take Ink Outq/I—Strong mu-
riatic acid, or spirits of salts, applied with apiece
of cloth; afterwards well washed with water.

BOARDS, To Get Oil Ofii—Mix together
fuller’s earth and soap lees, and rub it into the

 

boards. Let it dry, and then scour it off with
some strong soft soap and sand, or use lees to
scour it with. It should be put on hot, which
may easily be done by heating tbe lees.

BONNE T S, To Prevent Being Injured éy
the [Iain—Great advantage will be found in
having a piece of white or yellow oiled silk
basted inside of that part of your bonnet where
the crown unites with the brim, carrying it up
some distance into the crown, and some distance
down into the hair between the outside and the
lining. This will prevent the bonnet being in-
jured by any oiliness about your hair. Or you
may have an oiled silk bonnet cap.

BOOKS, To Remove Stain: from.—To re-
move ink stains from a book, first wash the pa-
per with warm water, using a camel’s hair brush
for the purpose. By this means the surface ink
is got rid of; the paper must now be wet with a
solution of oxalate of potash, or, better still, ox-
alic acid, in the proportion of one ounce to half
a pint of water. The ink stains will immedi-
ately disappear. Finally, again wash the stained
place with clean water, and dry it with white
blotting paper. '

B OOA’S, T 0 Remove Greasefrom.—Lay upon
the spot a little magnesia or powdered prepared
chalk, and under it the same; set on it a warm
flat-iron, and as soon as the grease is melted it
will be all absorbed, and leave the paper clean.

BOOTS AND SHOES, Care of—Boots
and shoes, if taken care of properly, will last
two or three times longer than they usually do,
and, at the same time, fit the feet far more satis-
factorily, and keep them dry and more comfort-
able in wet and cold weather. The upper
leather should be kept soft and pliable,'while the
soles need to be hard, tough, and impervious to
water.

The first thing to be done with any pair of
new shoes, is to set each one on a platter or a.
dinner-plate, and pour on boiled linseed-oil suf-
ficient to fill the vessel to the upper edge of the
soles. Allow the leather to absorb as much oil
as it will for eight hours. Linseed oil should
not be applied to the upper leather, as it will
soon become dry, rendering the leather hard and
tough. But if the soles be saturated with this
oil, it will exclude the dampness and enlarge the
pegs, so that the soles will never get loose from
the upper leather.

If the shoes be sewed, the linseed oil will pre-
serve the thread from rotting. N ow wet the
upper leather thoroughly when the boots or the
shoes are to be put on the feet, so that those
parts which are tight may render a trifle, and
thus adapt the form of the shoe to the foot far
more satisfactorily than when the upper leather
is not wet. Keep them on the foot until nearly
dry. Then give the upper leather a thorough
greasing with equal parts of lard and tallow, or
tallow and neat’s foot oil.

If shoes be treated in this manner, and a row
of round-headed shoe nails be driven around the
edge of the soles, they will wear like copper,
and always set easy to the feet. Boots and
shoes should be treated as suggested, and worn

153

DICTIONAR 1’ OF E VER Y—DA Y WANTS.

§

 

a little several months before they are put to
daily service. They should be cleaned fre-
quently, whether they are worn or not, and
should never be put to stand in a damp place,
not be ut too near the fire to dry. In cleaning,
be care ul to brush the dirt from the seams, and
not to scrape in with a knife, or you will cut the
stitches. Let the hard brush do its work thor-
oughly well, and the polish will be all the brighter.
Do not put on too much blacking at a time, for
if it dries before using the shining brush the
leather will look brown instead of black.

BOOTS AND SHOES, India Rubbei, Water
Proof for.——-Spermaceti, 4 parts; India rubber
(small), I part. Melt with a gentle heat, then
add tallow or lard, 10 parts; amber or copal var-
nish, 5 parts. Well mix and apply the compos-
ition to the leather with a paint-brush. Cut the
rubber into very small pieces, and let it take its
time to dissolve, say four or five hours.

BOOTS (IV/Lite 7am) To C1tan.—If you
have not boottrees, stuff the boot as full as pos~
sible with common cotton wadding or old rags,
to prevent any creases; then mix some pipeclay
with water to rather a stiff paste, wash the jean
boots with soap and water and a nail-brush,
using as little water as possible to get the dirt
off. When they look tolerably clean rub the
pipeclay with a flannel well over them and hang
them to dry.‘ When dry beat out the superfluous
clay with the hand and rub them till they look
smooth. Flake white may also be used.

BOOTS, KID, To Clam—If the kid boots
are not very soiled they may be cleaned in the
following manner:-—-Put half an ounce of harts-
horn into a saucer, dip a bit of clean flannel in it
and rub it on a piece of white card soap; rub the
boots with this, and as each piece of flannel be-
comes soiled, take a fresh piece ; the boots will
look like new.

BOOTS, KID, To Rertore color qf.-—Take a
small quantity of good black ink, mix it with the
white of an egg, and apply it to the boots with a
soft sponge.

BOOTS, KID, To Sofiem—Melt a quarter of
a pound of tallow, then pour it into a jar, and add
to it the same weight of olive oil, stir, and let
it stand still; apply a small quantity occasionally
with a piece of flannel. Should the boots be
very dirty, cleanse with warm water. It will
soften any leather.

BOOTS, PEGGED, To Prevent Rafting.—
Pegged boots, it is stated, if occasionally dressed
with petroleum between the soles and the upper
leather, will not rip. If the soles of boots or
shoes are dressed with petroleum they will resist
wet and wear well. The pegs, it is said, are not
affected by dryness after being well saturated
with this liquida.

BOOTS, (PA TENTLEA THER), Careof.
—The old plan of washing them with milk is
simply absurd—a waste of time. If they crack,
brush a little blacking into the cracks, and then
rub them over with French polish, or common
furniture polish, using the finger to lay on the

olish, and a soft dry rag to finish off with. In
lieu of furniture polish, a mixture of sweet oil
and turpentine will answer. This treatment will
preserve their bright polish until they are utterly
worn out.

BOOT LEA T HER, Prtrerwtion of.—Shoe
leather is generally abused. Persons know noth-
ing or care less about the kind of material used

 

than they do about the polish produced. Vitriol
blacking is used until every particle of the oil in
the leather is destroyed. To remedy this abuse,
the leather should be washed once a month with
warm water, and when about half dry, a coat of
oil and tallow should be applied, and the boots
set aside for a day or two. This will renew the
elasticity and life in the leather, and when thus
used upper leather will seldom crack or break.

BOOTS AND SHOES(Summer) ToPn’rerz/l
through the Mitten—Wash the blacking off;
let them dry ; then oil them with castor or neats-
foot oil. When you wear them they will be soft
and pliable, and will last longer if preserved in
this way. After you have worn them a few days
they are ready for blacking.

BOOTS AND SHOES, (RUBBER), To
[Wand—I. Get a piece of pure rubber—an old
shoe—vulcanized rubber will not do; cut it into
small bits. Put it into a bottle, and cover to
twice its depth with spirits of turpentine or re-
fined coal tar naphtha—not petroleum naphtha.
Stop the bottle and set one side, shaking it fre-
quently. The rubber will soon dissolve. Then
take the shoe and press the rip or cut close to-
gether, and put on the rubber solution with a
camel’s hair brush. Continue to apply so fast as
it dries until a thorough coating is formed.
Spirits of turpentine dissolves the rubber slow-
est, but forms the most elastic cement.——2. Pur-
chase a can of rubber cement, which can be
found in large cities at rubber stores; also some
rubber for patches, as new rubber is much better
than old boots or shoes. To make the patches
adhere, it is necessary to remove the cloth from
them. To do this, moisten the cloth with benzine
and remove immediately. Cut the patches the
proper size to cover the hole in the boot. Make
the boot around the hole rough, the size of the
patch, with a wood or shoemakers file; apply
the cement to the boot, and the patch with a case
knife, and let t/zem lie in a warm, dry mom from
thirty to sixty minutes; then put the patch on the
boot, and press it down firmly. Be very parti-
cular about the edges of the patch. After it has
been on a short time examine it again, to see that
it has not started off; if it has, press it down
again. Do not use the boot under forty-eight
hours after the patch is put on. One fifty cent
can of cement will last a family several years.
Keep the cover on the can when not in use, as
it dries up very quickly. If the cement becomes
dry, cut it with benzine.

BOOTS, S QUEA KIN G, ToPrwmt.—Squeak-
ing boots or shoes are a great annoyance, espec-
ially in entering a sick room, or a church after
the service has commenced. To remedy it, boil
linseed oil and saturate the soles with the
same.

BOOTS AND SHOES, (Sales of) To Make
Wate¢roqfi—Experience has proved that a coat
of gum copal varnish applied to the soles of boots
and shoes, and repeated as it dries, until the
pores are filled and the surface shines like pol-
ished mahagony, will make the soles water-
proof, and also cause them to last three times as
long as ordinary soles.

BOOTS AND SHOES, Water-prooflcompo-
ritz‘onflr.—Boiled oil 1 pint; oil of turpentine,
black rosin, and bees’ wax, of each 3 oz. Melt
the wax and rosin, then stir in the oil, remove
the pot from the fire, and when it has cooled a
little, add the turpentine.

HOUSEHOLD MISCELLANY.

BRITANIA METAL, To Cl:an.—Moisten
the articles to be cleaned with sweet oil; then
apply a little pounded rotten-stone, and polish
with Chamois leather and fine chalk.

BROOMS, Us: and Management ofi—First,
buyyour broom; and in buying, choose green
brush. See that the broomhead will not shake
in the handle; if it does, reject it; for the handle
having been green when the broom was made,
in sweeping the brush will keep falling out.
Next, open the broom below the sewing, and see
if there is any stalk. It should be all brush;
for as the stalk of broom corn is brittle, if there
are any below the twine, they will be continually
breaking off.

Now, in using a broom, don’t expect it to
support you through the process of sweeping;
that is how it gets its bent appearance or curl
on the edge which some brooms have, and all
the good that comes of it is, that you wear your-
self, carpet and broom out quicker. We have
seen abroom used so unskillfully, that one would
almost think the person engaged in using it was
endeavoring to change the place of the dust from
the floor to the furniture. It requires some
science, or at least some skill, to use a broom
well, as it does to do anything else.

To use abroom skillfully, the handle should
incline forward and not backward, as is often the
case. If the top of the broom inclines forward
of the part next the floor, it will prevent much
of the dust from rising into the air, and will
carry it along by a gentle sliding motion toward
the place where it is to be disposed of.

If, on the other hand, the handle of the broom
inclines backward, the dust is sent into the air
by a kind of jerk. to the great annoyance of those
who occupy the room, and to the great detrim-
ent of everythingthe apartment contains. More
than this, it wears ofi‘ the threads of the carpet
quicker, injures the paint more, if the room is
uncarpeted, and destroys the broom sooner than
if the sweeping was done in amore rational way.

A new broom sweeps clean, because it is the
proper shape ; keep it so by sweeping on each
side alternately. Wetting it before sweeping,
will restore its flexibility; and if wet in boiling
suds, once a week, they will become very tough,
will not cut a carpet, last much longer and al-
ways sweep like a new broom. Do not keep a
broom near the fire; the brush is liable to break,
being so dry. Do not store brooms where there
are rats or mice ; they like the com. A broom that
is all out of shape, may be restored by soaking,
then pressed in shape between something

eavy.

CA L] C 0, To Prevent Fading—Put three
gills of salt into four quarts of hot water, put in
the calico, while the water is hot, allowing it to
remain in until the water becomes cold.

CANDLE, T a Make Bum All [fight—To
make a candle burn all night, when, as in the
case of sickness, a dull light is wished, put finely
powdered salt on the candle till it reaches the
black part of the wick. In this way a mild and
steady light may be kept through the night by a
small piece of candle.

CA NDLE-S T 1 CK’, (Silver-Plated) T a clean.
——Silver-plated candlesticks should be cleaned by
pouring on the tops boiling hot water, to remove
the grease ; when wiped dry, use whiting,
rubbing them until bright. This will not injure
the platel ware.

 

153

CARPETS, To Chara—The carpet ought to
assimilate with the style of the paperhangings,
but the quality of the material must depend on
the capability of the purchaser’s pocket. In
carpets, as in many other things, the dearest
articles are generally the cheapest in the end.
In illustration of this we may state that the carpet
in our dining-room cost $1.25 a yard, and al- ‘
though it has been in daily use for four years it
looks as well as ever. For dining and drawing
rooms Brussels carpets are the best. If the
rooms are small choose small patterns with‘ few
colors, or of a pattern formed of shades of the
same color as the ground, such as a green car-
pet with mosses or small ferns in various shades
of green, or a carpet with an indistinct pattern
of ribbons or arabesques of a small size. When
there is nothing very decided to attract the eye,
the defects of wear are not so obvious. Stair
carpets are also best of Brussels make; crimson
wears longest; they must be of a pattern that
will admit of being turned upside down, as it is
a good plan frequently to change the position of
the carpet, that the edge of each step may not
always come in the same spot, which would soon
wear the fabric. A small gay pattern of crimsons
or oak colors wears best; avoid blues or lilacs
or shades of stone color: the two former fade
quickly, and the latter always looks dirty.

CARPETING, CHEAP. — Sew together
strips of the cheapest cotton cloth, of the size of
the room, and tack the edges to the floor. Then
paper the cloth as you would the sides of a room,
with any sort of room paper. After being well
dried, give it two coats of varnish, and your car-
pet is finished. It can be washed like carpets
without injury, retains its gloss, and, on cham—
bers or sleeping-rooms, where it will not meet
rough usage, will last for two years, as good as

new.

CARPE TS, How To Lay.—Cover the floor
with thick brown paper, which is sold in large
rolls for the purpose; have the carpet properly
fitted, and, on the binding of the edges, sew at
regular distances small brass rings in such a
manner that when the carpet is laid they will
not appear beyond the edges. Round the sides
of [the room drive medium-sized brass-headed
nails, at the same distances from each other as
the rings are sewed on the carpet; when ready,
begin at the top of the room and hook the rings
over the brass-headed nails, which must be driven
into the floor far enough to admit of the rings
catching a firm hold. When the top is hooked
on, stretch the carpet to the opposite side and
hook it on, then fasten the sides in like manner.
This is much less troublesome and is more econo-
mical than nailing down carpets.

CARPETS (STAIR), To make [art—Slips
of paper should always be placed over the edges
of the stairs, under the carpet. This will dimin-
ish the friction between the carpet and the boards
underneath it. The strips should be in length
within an inch or two of the width of the carpet,
and four or five inches in breadth, as convenient.
This simple expedient will preserve the carpet
half as long again as it would last without the
strips. -

CARPE TS. T a Swap—Sweeping carpets
too often wears them out rapidly. It is obvious
to any one, that a brisk, daily brushing over the
whole surface must wear away and carry off more
woolly particles than the occasional stepping of

:54

.01 CT! ONAR Y 0F EVER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

feet during the day without the rubbing and
scraping given by the broom. To allow sand
and grit to accumulate on the surface, and to
become ground into the fibres by the pressure
of sole leatheris, however, worse than sweeping.
A handful or so of salt sprinkled on the carpet
will carry the dust along with it and make the
carpet look bright and clean. A very dusty car-
pet may be cleaned by setting a pail of cold water
out by the door, wet the broom in it, knock it
to get off all the drops, sweep a yard or so, then
wash the broom as before and sweep again, being
careful to shake all the drops off the broom, and
not sweep far at a time. If done with care it
will clean a carpet very nicely and you will be
surprised at the quantity of dirt in the water.
The water may need changing once or twice, if
the carpet is very dirty. Snow sprinkled over
a carpet and swept off beforeit has time to melt
and dissolve, is also nice for renovating a soiled
carpet. Moistened Indian meal is used with
good effect by some housekeepers.

In libraries, cabinets, etc., where dust might
badly injure or wholly spoil the specimens and
books, it is better to procure a patent carpet
sweeper, merely using the broom or brush to
clean out the corners and sides.

CARPETS, To Claim—Brussels carpets may
be cleaned as follows :—Take them up and shake
and beat them, so as to render them perfectly
freofrom dust. Have the floor thoroughly scour-
ed and dry, and nail the carpet firmly down
upon it. If still much soiled, it may be cleaned
in the following manner :—Take a pailful of clean
cold spring water, and put into it about 3 gills
of ox-gall. Take another pail with clean cold
water only. Now rub with a soft scrubbing
brush some of the oxogall water on the carpet,
which will raise a lather. When a convenient
sized portion is done, wash the lather off with
a clean linen cloth dipped in the clean water.
Let this water be changed frequently. When all
the lather has disappeared, rub the part with a
clean dry cloth. After all is done, open the win-
dow b allow the carpet to dry. Acarpet treated
in this manner will be greatly refreshed in color,
particularly the greens.—In nailing down a car-
pet after the floor has been washed, be certain
that the floor is quite dry, or the nails will rust
and injure the carpet. Fuller’s earth is used for
cleaning carpets, and weak solutions of alum or
soda are used for reviving the colors. The crumb
of a hot wheaten loaf rubbed over a carpet has
been found effective.

CARPE TS, T 0 Remove Greare from—l. Mix
a little soap into a gallon of warm soft water,
then add half an ounce of borax; wash the part
well with clean cloth, and the grease or dirty
spot will soon disappear.-—2. Cover the grease
spot with whiting, and let it remain until it be-
comes saturated with the grease; then scrape it
off, and cover it with another coat of whiting,
and if this does not remove the grease, repeat the
application. Three coats of whiting will, in most
cases, remove the grease, when it should be
brushed off with a clothes brush. If oil has been
spilt on a carpet, that part of the carpet must be
loosened up, and the floor beneath it well
scrubbed with warm soap and water, and fuller’s
earth; otherwise the grease will continue yet to
come through—3. To remove spots of spermac.
eti, scrape off as much as you can with a knife,
then lay on a thin, soft, white paper upon the

 

spots, and press itwith a warm iron. By repeat-
ing this you may draw out the spermaceti.
Afterward rub the cloth where the spots have
been, with some very soft brownish paper.

CA RPE T S, To Prevthat/z: in.-—To prevent
moths from injuring carpets, buy half a pound
of gum camphor, and that will save all the car-l
pets in your house for a year, by placing a few!
little crumbs under the edges of the carpets with-'
out moving them.

CASKS, (‘WA TER) To Clam—Scour the
inside well out with water and sand, and after-
ward apply a quantity of charcoal dust; another
and a better method is to rinse them with a
strong solution of oil of vitriol and water, which
entirely deprives them of their toulness.

CHAIRS ( Cam-80110711) T o C [cam—Turn up
the chair bottom, etc. and with hot water and a
sponge wash the cane-work well, so that it may
become completely soaked. Should it be very
dirty you must add soap. Let it dry in the open
air, if possible, or in a place where there is a
thorough draught, and it will become as tight
and firm as when new, providing that it has not
been broken.

CHIM’NE YS, Lea/é: A round—These may
be stopped by applying a paste made of tar, and
dry, sifted road dust. The paste should be
lapped over the shingles to form a collar.

CHINA 0R GLASSW'ARE, To Mend.—
A useful cement is produced by powdered chalk
and white of egg. A mixture of equal parts of
white of egg, white-lead, and glue, forms a
strong cement. Or take a very thick solution of
gum arabic in 'water, and stir into it plaster of
Paris until the mixture becomes a viscous paste.
Apply it with a brush to the fractured edges,
and stick them together. In three days the
article cannot again be broken in the same place.
For other preparations for this purpose see
“Cements”.

CHILDREN: To Protect From Burning.—
Add one ounce of alum to the last water used in
rinsing children’s dresses, and they will be ren-
dered uninflammable. It would be better still
to dress them in woollen materials during the
season when fires are needed.

CLINXERS.——Oyster shells on top of a coal
fire will cause the clinkers adhering to the sides
of the grate or to the fire-brick to drop off. Be
liberal with your oyster shells and you will have
no trouble with clinkprs.

COLOR, To Re:lbre.—-It is well known that
when the color on a {itbric has been destroyed by
acid, ammonia is app ied to neutralize the same.
But it is not so well known that after the applic-
ation of ammonia, chloroform will, in almost all
cases, restore the original color. Chloroform
will also remove paint from a garment when al-
most everything else fails.

CROCKER Y WARE, To Mend—Wash the
vessel gently and thoroughly with soap and
water, and let it dry without wiping. The pieces
should then be fitted together as soon as possible,
and kept in their places by winding firmly over
the bowl or dish a strong thread, or a piece of
twine; put the broken article into a boiler, an
inch or two larger each way, and fill them both
with sweet, cold, skimmed milk; set the borler
over the fire, and boil for ten or fifteen minutes;
take it off, and let it stand till quite cold, when
the string, or twine, may be cut, and the article
washed in warm water.

HOUSEHOLD

CURTAINS, WINDO W—Window curtains
are alike useful and ornamental. Theyl ought to
be chosen of a color harmonizing wit the car-
pet, paperhangings, and other drapery of the
apartment. As a rule, red or .green curtains
will blend pleasantly with ordinary drapefK-
Window curtains are composed of satin, sil ,
rep, damask, moreen, calico, and other fabrics.
Rep is very durable, but damask, which may be
periodical] refreshed by the dyer, is the most
economica and useful. Net and muslin curtains
should be substituted or added during the summer
months. Top valances have been dispensed With
as collecting dust and obscuring the light; and
the curtains are now suspended by large rings on
brass or mahagony rods, having ornamental ter-
minals. Window curtains are seldom drawn,
their principal use being to conceal the window-
shutters, intercept draughts from the window-
sashes, and impart a comfortable aspect to the
apartment.

DISHES, How To Wash—First make sure
before breakfast or dinner that there is plenty
of water in the boiler, and also in the tea-
kettle. After the table is cleared, the table-
cloth brushed ofl" and neatly folded away,
and the dining-room disposed of, proceed
with your dishes. First take a large dish-pan,
put into it a piece of soap, and pour over the soap
three or four dipperfuls of hot water from the
boiler. Then add 2 or 3 dipperfuls of cold soft
water. Then the dish-cloth. The water should
n0w be so cool as not to turn the hands red when
put into it. Take the dish-cloth and rub from
the soap the melted surface, and put the re-
mainder away. Wash adish at a time and pass it
to another pan. When all are done, or the pan
is full, take the tea-kettle and pour over enough
hot water to thoroughly rinse and heat them.
Now take them from the water, one at a time,
and place them bottom-side up upon a tray or
pan to drain. If they have been properly washed,
this hot rinsing water will run off or evaporate
in a minute, leaving the dishes nearly dry.
However, they should now be wiped with a clean,
dry towel, and put away. Dishes must be washed
in soft water. Especially is this necessary where
soap is used. And soap is really indispensable
in washing dishes properly. The dishes should
be scraped free from grease, crumbs, bones, etc.,
before commencing to wash them. A neat house-
keeper will have the same dish—cloth in use until
it is worn out, when it should be put into the
ragbag. Never allow the dish.cloth to be used
for any thing else but washing dishes.

DISH FOR DISHWASHING, How To
Make.——A handy dish for this purpose can be
secured by making it, oval, in shape, 20 inches
by 12 inches at the bottom 24 inches by I6inches
at the top and 6 inches deep; II inches from one
end there is a tin partition, dividing the pan into
two compartments, the smaller for washing, the
larger for rinsing the dishes in hot water.

‘ DOORS, To Prevent Creaéz'ng.——Apply a
little soap to the hinges. Or take lard, soap,
and black lead, equal parts, mix and apply.

EARTIJ’ENWARE, To Temper. —— When
new, and before used for baking, put in cold
water to cover, and heat it gradually until the
water boils. It is then less likely to crack.

FEA T HE RS, T a Chara—Feathers are com-
monly cleaned by washing them in a weak
solution of carbonate of soda or in lime water,

 

MISCELLANK r 5 5

after which they are rinsed in clean water,
and then dried in the sun or in a stove. They
will now be improved by a. thorough beating.
The best way to clean feathers, is to clean them
out of the house, by taking them up on the roof
of the house, barn. or shed, selecting a wind
day, carefully ripping the tick the whole lengt
of the seam, and suddenly opening it widely, so
that the wind will clean them out in every
direction.-—Don’t sleep on feathers they are an
utter abomination and are the cause of a vast
amount of weakness, being as they are prime
extracters of vital force.

FIRES OF KEROSENE, To Extinguish.
—In cases of kerosene fires, don’t try to extin-
guish the flame with water; that will only spread
the fire. Instead, use blankets, or woolen
clothes, quilts, shawls, or whatever may be at
hand that .can be used to smother the flames.

FIREBOARD OF PAPER FLOWERS.
—Take a piece of board which fits exactly into
the space. Tack over it a cover of green baize,
stretching it smoothly. Make out of stiff, green
paper a number of leaves, dahlia, rose, tulip, lily,
etc., enough of them to entirely cover the baize.
Baste these leaves down at the stem; curl them
at the edges with the scissors, and gum them
down in the baize. Do not sew them, except at
the stem. Now make large aper flowers, or,
if you have them, take arti cial flowers. and
smooth them over. Place the flowers amid the
leaves, using your own taste in the arrangement.
Sew the flowers at the stem ; or, if you wish to
fasten the flowers themselves down, use dissolved
gum Arabic.

FLOORS, Mapping and Cleaning—The
practice of mopping floors too often, is a loss
of time, and a waste of strength, and is as incon-
sistent with reason, as the habit of blacking
cooking stoves every time they are used; and I
am not sure but wet floors are as detrimental to
health as the dust sent forth by the too frequent
use of the common stove blacking. Mopping
painted floors too often, and with hot soapsuds,
wears off the paint, causing needless expense
of both time and money.

It is difficult to say, how often a painted, or an
unpainted floor should be washed, for that
depends on circumstances; but it requires that
the cloth, mop and water, should be as clean as
a supply of the latter will admit, and the floor .
wiped as dry as possible ; and that every corner,
and other retired spots, under beds, bureaus,
or any other articles which may be in the apart-
ments, should have a fair chance to partake of
the cleansing.

FLOORS, To Sewn—Take some clean, well-
sifted sand, scatter it on the floor, have ready one
ounce potash dissolved in a pint of water,
sprinkle it over the sand, and with a scrubbing-
brush and good mottled soap rub the boards
along their length. Changing the water frequently
and using it very hot, makes the boards white;
the potash, if properly applied, will remove all
stains.

FLOORS, To Remove Stain: frown—For
removing spots of grease from boards, take equal
parts of fullers’ earth and pearlash, a quarter of
a pound of each, and boil in a quart of soft water;
and, while hot, lay it on the greased parts,
allowing it to remain on them for ten or twelve
hours; after which it may be scoured 03' with
sand and water. A floor much spotted with

:56

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

grease should be com letely washed over with
this mixture the day be ore it is scoured. Fullers’
earth or ox-gall, boiled together, form a very
powerful cleansing mixture for floors or carpets.
Stains of ink are removed b strong vinegar, or
salts of lemon will remove t em.

FRAMES (Gill), T a Radon—White of
eggs, 2 oz. ; chloride of potash or soda, I 02.;
mix well, blow off the dust from the frames; then'
go over them with a soft brush dipped in the
mixture, and they will appear equal to new.

FRAMES (Picture) T o Prevent Flies soiling.
—To prevent the flies going on picture frames
and furniture, immerse a quantity of leeks for five
or six days in a pail of water, and wash the pic-
tures, etc., with it.

FURNITURE, Care afi—Keep the paste or
oil in a proper can or jar, that there may be no
danger of upsetting when using it. Have two
pieces of woollen cloth, one for rubbing it on,
the other for rubbing it dry and polishing; also
an old linen cloth to finish with, and a piece of
smooth soft cork to rub out the stain. Use a
brush if the paste be hard. Always dust the table
well before the oil or paste is put on; and, if it
should be stained, rub it with a damp sponge,
and then with a dry cloth. If the stain does not
disap ear, rub it well with a cork or a brush the
way t e wood grows ; for if rubbed cross-grained
it will be sure to scratch it. Be careful to keep
the cork and brush free from dust and dirt.
When the dust is cleaned off and the stains have
been got out, put on the oil or paste, but not too
much at a time; rub it well into the wood. If
oil, be as quick as possible in rubbing it over the
table, and then polish it with another woollen
cloth. If wax, put a little bit on the woollen
cloth, with the finger or a small stick; rub it well
with this till the table has a high polish, then
have another cloth to finish it with. Be very
careful to have the edges of the table well cleaned,
and the oil and wax well rubbed off.

The furniture which is not in constant use will
not require to be oiled above once a week; it
ought, however, to be dusted every day and
well rubbed. Tables which are used daily must
be well rubbed every morning, and great care
should be taken to remove all spots from them,
particularly ink. This can very easily be done,
if not left to dry long, by putting on a little salt
of lemons with the finger.

When cleaning tables or chairs, be careful to
remove them into the middle of the room, or at
a distance from the wall. If the sideboard or
sidetable is fixed to the wall, be still more careful
in cleaning it, and roll up the woollen cloth tight
in the hand, and into a small compass.

FURJVITURE, To Talze Bruise: Out of.—
Wet the part with warm water; double a piece
of brown paper five or six times, soak it in the
warm water, and lay it on the place; apply on
that a warm, but not hot flat-iron till the moist-
ure is evaporated. If the bruise be not gone,
repeat the process. After two or three appli-
cations, the dent or bruise will be raised to the
surface. If the bruise be small, merely soak it
with warm water, and hold a red-hot iron near
the surface, keeping the surface continually wet
—-the bruise will soon disappear.

GLASSWARE (New) To Seam”. —— Put
dishes, tumblers, and other glass articles into a
kettle; cover them entirel with cold water, and
put the kettle where it w' soon boil. When it

 

has boiled a few minutes, set it aside, covered
close. When the water is cold, take out the glass. .
. GLASS-CLEANING.—Glass windows, lookc
mg-glasses, etc., may be cleaned as follows :—
Dip a moistened rag or flannel into indigo, fuller’s
earth, ashes, or rotten-stone, in impalpable
powder, with which smear the glass, and wipe it
off with a dry soft cloth. Powder-blue or white-
ning, tied up in muslin and dusted upon the
glass, and cleaned off with Chamois-leather, also
gives glass 3. fine polish. The spots in the silver-
ing of old looking-glasses are caused by damp at
the back.

GLASS CHIMNE YS, T o Prevent erae/Ez'ng.
——If the chimney-glass of a lamp be cut with a
diamond on the convex side, it will never crack,
as the incision affords room for the ex ansion
produced by the heat, and the glass, afier it is
cool, returns to its original shape, with only a.
scratch visible where the cut is made.

GLASS-GLOBES, To Clean.—Ifthe globes
are much stained on the outside by smoke, soak
them in tolerably hot water with a little washing
soda dissolved in it, then put a teaspoonful of
powdered ammonia into a pan of lukewarm water,
and with a tolerably hard brush wash the globes
till the smoke stain disappears ; rinse in clean
cold water, and let them drain till dry; they will
be quite as white and clear as new globes.

GREASE, To Remwefrom STONE STEPS
0r Pa:.rage.r.—Pour strong soda and water boil.
ing hot over the spot, lay on it a little fuller’s-
earth made into a thin paste with boiling water,
let it remain all night, and if the grease be not
removed, repeat the process. Grease is some-
times taken out by rubbing the spot with a hard
stone (not hearthstone), using sand and very hot
water with soap and soda.

GRAINING, How To Wash—Take clear
warm water, a. clean, white cloth, and wash a
small place and wipe dry with another clean,
white cloth. Do not wet any more space than
you ’can dry immediately with your cloth as it
mustnot be left to dry in the atmosphere; it must
be rubbed dry, hence the necessity for clean
white cloths. If the paint has been neglected
until very much soiled with greasy fingers, or '
specked with a summer’s growth of flies, a very
little hard soap may be put .in the first water,
and then rinsed off with clear water, but avoid
soap if you possibly can, as it dulls the varnish,
however carefully used. On no account must it
be rubbed on with a cloth.

HOUSE CLEANING—In cleaning a room,
the carpet should come up first, not only because
of the dust, but to give the floor all day to dry,
not leaving it to be scrubbed last, as we have
seen some bad managers do, and pay for it by
influenzas. Where the walls are papered, they
should next be swept with a clean towel pinned
firmly round a broom, if there is not a brush
kept for the purpose. The ceilings of chambers
are usually whitewashed; this is the next pro-
ceeding; and the walls scrubbed, 1f painted or
hard finished. Then come windows and wood-
work, in all things being careful to use as little
slop as will thoroughly answer the purpose. In
cleaning wood-work, use little soap, but plenty
of clean water, which will prevent discoloration.
If dirty spots and patches are wiped off the year
round, faithfully, there will be much less need of
scrubbing the boards bare in “house cleaning”.
Oak, or dark woods, now so mu ch, the fashion,

HOUSEHOLD MISCELLANI’.

need not be touched, with good care, .more than
once a year; frequent dry rubbing will answer
every purpose. _

HOUSE, How T 0 Choose In Rm!zng.—The
choice of a house is in importance second only to
the selection of a friend. The best residence is
one which is not inconveniently distant from your

lace of business—is in a cheerful and healthy
ocality, and of which the rent, including rates
and taxes, does not exceed one-sixth of your in-
come. Do not choose a neighborhood merely
because it is fashionable, and carefully avoid
occupying a dwelling in alocality of doubtful
reputation. Be particular as to whether it is dry,
with convenient sewage and plenty of water. A
southern or western aspect is to be preferred.
Should the house he infested with vermin. av01d
it. See that the windows and doors are well
secured, that there are proper means of ventila-
tion, and that the chimneys do not smoke.

Let all needful repairs be made by the land-
lord before the completion of your agreement,
otherwise you will probably be required to ex-
ecute them at your own expense. Do not deal
with a landlord who is commonly reputed as
being disobliging, greedy, or litigious. In every
case have a lease properly drawn out and
stamped.

Avoid the neighborhood of a sluggish stream,
a mill~dam, or fresh-water lake. The penalties
are rheumatism, ague, impaired eyesight, loss
of appetite, asthma and other distressmg ail-
ments. Choose a house away from the vicinity
of tan-yards, and tallow, soap, and chemical
Works. The neighborhood of old and crowded
burial-grounds and of slaughterhouses is to be
shunned. A low situation is perilous, espe-
cially, during the prevalence of epidemics.

Never lease a house in a narrow street, unless
the back premises are open and extensive. Be-
fore closing your bargain try to obtain some
account of the house from a former occupant.

HOUSE, Haw To Furnish a.—If you are
about to furnish a house, do not spend all your
money, be it much or little. Do not let the
beauty of this thing, and the cheapness of that,
tempt you to buy unnecessary articles. Doctor
Franklin’s maxim was a wise one—«“Nothing is
cheap that we do not want.” Buy merely enough
to get along with at first. It is only by experi-
ence that you can tell what will be the wants ot
your family. If you spend all your money, you
will find you have purchased many things you do
not want, and have no means left to get many
things which you do want. If you have enough,
and more than enough, to get everything suitable
to your situation, do not think you must spend
it all, merely because you happen to have it.
Begin humbly. As riches increase, itis easy and
pleasant to increase in comforts; but it is always
painful and inconvenient to decrease. After all,
these things are viewed in their proper light by
the truly judicious and respectable. Neatness,
tastefulness, and good sense may be shown in
the management of a small household, and the
arrangement of a little furniture, as well as upon
a larger scale; and these qualities are always
praised, and always treated with respect and
attention. The consideration which many pur-
chase by living beyond their income, and, of
course, living upon others, is not worth the
trouble it costs. The glare there is about this
Else and wicked parade is deceptive; it does not

 

157

in fact, procure aman valuable friends, or extens-
ive influence.

HOUSE, How To Choose in Purchasing.—
In purchasing a house, whether old or new, do
not trust to a pearances, or rely on your own
judgment. W en' you have selected a house
likely to suit your family and your purse, employ
a surveyor to inspect every ortion of it. He
willexamine the foundations, t e state of the sew-
age, and the character of the materials which form
the walls. He will be able to detect if soft bricks
have been used, by finding traces of damp at the
bottom of the walls. In examining the joists,
flooring, and other woodwork, he will be enabled
to re ort whether cheap wood has, been used in-
stea of well-seasoned timber. By your solicitor
you must look into the nature of the tenure and
the duration of the building lease. If you can
obtain a freehold property, so much the better;
if not, be particular in considering whether the
ground-rent is such as to justify the purchase.
You will do well to secure a portion of ground
beside our house, on which you might erect an
adding should your family increase; or your bu-
siness demand further accommodation. Beware
of rashly purchasing fixtures,—such as window-
blinds, hall carpets, and kitchen furnishings;
new articles may be found in the end more eco-
nomical. Make an effort to pay the whole of
the purchase-money. A bond on your house
twill endanger your credit, and affect your com-
ort.

HOUSE PLANTS, To Ker}? I/Vz'tfiout Fire.
—Take an old bed quilt, put it on the floor, and
set the plants together in the center. Set a
stand over them, and bring the quilt up over the
top. If any of the plants are very sensitive to
the cold, a newspaper pinned around them would
be an additional protection.

ICE-HOUSE, Extempordmour.—An ice-
house can be extemporised without making a
tenon or sawing a board. Construct a pen near
the pond or stream where the ice is to be gath-
ered, choosing if possible a gravel-bank where
there will be good drainage. The pen may be
made of rails twelve feet long, or of any desired
length. The larger the pen, the better the ice
will keep. Lay up two rails upon each of the
four sides. Make the bottom level, and cover it
a foot or more with straw, sea-weed, or any con-
venient refuse vegetable matter. Sawdust is
better than straw, if it can be had. Spent tan-
bark is a good material for this foundation. Cut
the cakes of ice in the usual manner, and pack
them closely, filling the interstices with pounded
ice, and if the weather is freezing pour on a little
water to make it solid. Pack the outside with a
foot of straw, sawdust, or other material, and
put up the fence as the pile of ice rises. The

ile can be conveniently made about eight feet
high. Cover the top with at least eighteen
inches of sawdust, or two feet of straw frodden
down closely. Make a roof of boards or slabs
slanting to the north, sufficiently steep to shed.
water, and fasten with a few nails. Such a pile
of ice as this can be secured by a couple of men
and a team in a day. A cheap ice-box made with
double sides and packed with sawdust will be
wanted. The inner chamber should be about 2
feet long, 2 feet deep, and 18 inches wide. This
will hold a single cake of ice weighinga hundred
pounds or more, and leave room on top to keefs
milk, fresh meats, fruit, and other matters. t

I58

DICTIONARY OF E VER Y—DA Y WANTS.

 

will last from four days to a week, according to
the quantity that is used in the drinking-water.
If the extemporaneous ice-house is not disturbed
more than once a week, it will probably supply
the family through the summer with abundance

of ice. .

INK STAINS, To Remove From Boo/5:.—
To remove ink stains from a book, first wash the
paper with warm water, using a camel’s hair

encil for the purpose. By this means the sur-
ace ink is got rid of; the paper must now be
wetted with a solution of oxalate of potash, or,
better still, oxalic acid, in the proportion of one
ounce to half a pint of water. The ink stains will
immediately disappear. Finally, again wash the
stained place with clean water, and dry it with
white blotting paper.

NR', To Rtmow From DRESS GOODS.
——Oxalic acid is considered one of the best
agents for this purpose. Dissolve ten cents worth
in a pint of soft water; dip the stained spots in it
quickly, and then into clear water, and rub well;
repeat the process until the stains are removed.
If the goods remain in the acid, the textuh will
be destroyed. The skin of the hands is unpleas-
antly affected, if brought into frequent contact
with a strong solution; care should be taken to
dip only the spots into this liquid. If the color
of the dress is affected mix with warm water and
wet with a dilute solution of ammonia which will
restore the original color. Ink stains on table
covers can be removed in the same way.

INK STAINS, To Remove Fram Linen.—
With a clean rag or sponge rub the soiled spot
with lemon juice in which has been dissolved a
small quantity of salt.

INIf, T 0 Extract From Mahogany—Dilute
half a tea~s oontul of oil of vitriol With a large
spoonful 0 water, and apply the mixture with a
feather to the stained wood. The ink mark will
disappear.

INK (Marking), T a Remove—Wet the stain
with fresh solution of chloride of lime: and, after
ten or twelve minutes, if the marks have become
white, dip the part in solution of ammonia (the
liquid ammoniae of chemists), or hyposulphate
of soda. In a few minutes, wash in c ean water.

IRON M OULDS, T 0 Rtmove.——Rub on the
spot a little powdered oxalic acid, or salts of
lemon and warm water, let it remain a few min-
utes and well rinse in clean water.

IRON MO ULD (01d), To Remove—The
part stained should be remoistened with ink, and
this removed by the use of muriatic acid diluted
with five or six times its weight of water, when
it will be found that the old and new stain will
be removed simultaneously.

IRON RUST, T a Ramona—Every particle
of rust on iron may be removed by first softening
it with petroleum, and then rubbing well with
coarse sand-paper. T o paint iron, take lamp-
black sufficient for twp coats, and mix with equal
quantities ofjapan varnish and boiled linseed oil.

IVORY, To Whitm.—I. When ivor orna-
ments get yellow or dusky looking, was them
well in soap and water, with a small brush to
clean the carvings, and place them while wet in
full sunshine; wet them for two or three days,
several times a day, with soapy water, still keep-
ing them in the sun; then wash them again, and
they will be beautifully white.—z. Immerse the
ivory in a saturated solution of alum and allow
it to soften in it for an hour; then take it out,

 

rub with a woolen cloth, wrap in a piece of linen
to dry throughout, and polish afterward.v—3.The
ivory is heated in a thin paste of lime until it
turns white, it is then dried and polished.

IVORY, T a T at: Stains Out qfi—A little
prepared white chalk, tinged with sweet oil and
sal volatile into a paste; rub it on wet with a
piece of wash-leather; let it remain until dry,
then brush it off.

FIRE KINDLINGS.——-Take one quart tar,l
three pounds rosin; melt them; when somewhat]
cool add one gill spirits turpentine, and mix as'
much sawdust, with a little charcoal, as can be
worked in; spread out while hot on a board;
when cold break up in small lumps about the
size of hickory nuts. They will easily ignite with
a match and burn with a strong blaze long
enough to burn any wood fit to burn.

KNIVES, To Clam—I. Cut a good-sized
solid, raw potato in two; dip the flat surface in
powdered brick-dust, and rub the knife-blades.
Stains and rust will disappear.-—-2. One of the
best substances for cleaning knives and forks is
charcoal, reduced to a fine powder, and applied
in the same manner as brick dust is used.—
3. Water lime is also used for this purpose.
Have a box with a partition and keep the lime
in one part and the cloths in the other. Wet a
small cloth a little and dip it in the lime, and
after the articles are well washed and wiped, rub
them until the spots are removed. Then take a
larger, dry cloth, dip it in the lime, and rub the
articles until polished to suit. Wipe off the
dust from the knives and forks with a dry cloth,
and they are ready to put away.

IVES, To Preserve From Rust—Never
wrap them in woolen cloths. When they are not
to be used for some time, have them made bright
and perfectly dry ; then take a soft rag. and rub
each blade with dry wood ashes.-—-Wrap them
closely in thick brown paper, and lay them in a
drawer or dry closet. A set of elegant knives,
used only on great occasions, were kept in this
way for over a hundred years without a spot of

rust.

IVORY IQVIFE HANDLES, To Prevent
Being Cracked. -——-Never let knife-blades stand
in hot water, as is sometimes done to make them
wash easily. The heat expands the steel which
runs up into the handle a ver little, and this
cracks the ivory. Knife-hand es should never
lie in water. A handsome knife, or one used for
cooking, is soon spoiled in this way.

KNIFE HANDLES, (Low!) To Fasten.—
The best cement for this purpose consists of one
pound of colophony(purchasable at the druggist’s)
and eight ounces of sulphur, which are to be
melted together, and either kept in bars or re-
duced to powder. One part of the powder is to
be mixed with half a part of iron filings, fine
sand or brick dust, and the cavity of the handle
is then to be filled with this mixture. The stem
of the knife or fork is then firmly inserted and
kept in position until the cement hardens.

LA CQUERED ARTICLES, To Clean.—
Brush with hot water and soap, wipe and dry
before the fire; finish with a soft cloth. Avoid
the use of pearlash or soda which may remove
the lacquer.

LAMP A C CIDEN T, To Prevent—Scarcely
a week passes, during the winter months, but
we read accounts of frightful accidents from kero~
sene lamps exploding and killing or scarring for

a as:

HOUSEHOLD MISCELLANY.

life, women and children. A simple knowledge
of the inflammable nature of the fluid, would prob-
ably put a stop to nearly all the accidents. As
the oil burns down into the lamp, or highly
inflammable gas gathers over its surface, and as
the oil decreases, the gas increases. When the
oil is nearly consumed a slight jar will often in-
flame the gas, and an explosion is sure to follow,
dealing with death and destruction. A bombshell
is not more to be dreaded. Now if the lamp is
not allowed to burn more than half way down,
such accidents are almost impossible. Always
fill your lamps in the morning; then you never
need fear an explosion.

The charred wick should also be cut off, for
observation shows that in a few times using the
wick becomes charred, and after the lamp has
burned a little time the tube becomes overheated,
and the charred wick is all on fire. From this
extra heat the oil is set on fire, and then comes an
explosion. Cut off the charred wick daily.

It would seem as though no one need be told
that it is dangerous to use any burning oil for the
purpose of kindling a fire, but the frequent rec-
ord of deaths from that practice, shows that great
numbers follow that wasteful and dangerous

wa .

lylAMPS,(1{erorene) T umingDown T lze W'iekr
UflvMany people who use kerosene oil are in
the habit of buming night-lamps,and turning them
down as they would gas, not knowing how much
mischief they thus do. When the light of the
kerosene lamp is turned down low, the combus-
tion is not perfect, and the atmosphere of the
room becomes vitiated by the unconsumed oil
vapor, by the gas produced by combustion, and
also legitimate particles of smoke and soot thrown
off, to be taken into the lungs of the occupants.
Air thus poisoned is deadly in its effects, and the
wonder is that the people are not immediately
and fatally injured by breathing it. Its conse-
quences are the unaccountable and mysterious
headaches, irritation of throat and lungs, dizzi-
ness and nausea.

LAMPS, T a Clam—Bronzed lamps should
be wiped carefully; if oil be frequently spilled
over them, it will cause the bronzing to be rubbed
off sooner than it would disappear by wear. Brass
lamps are best cleaned with crocus, or rotten
stone and sweet oil. Lacquered lamps may be
washed with soap and water, but should not be
touched with acid or very strong lye, else the
lacquer will soon come off. When lamps are foul
inside, wash them with potash and water, rinse
them well; set them before the fire, and be sure
that they are dry before oil is again put into
them.

LAMP CHIMNE YS, To Clean. -— Most
people cleaning lamp chimneys, use either a

rush made of bristles twisted into a wire, or a
rag on the point of scissors. Both of these are
bad; for, without great care, the wire, or scissors
will scratch the glass as a diamond does, which
under the expansive power of heat, soon breaks,
as all scratched glass will. If you want a neat
thing that costs nothing, and will save half your
glass, tie a piece of soft sponge the size of your
chimney to a pine stick.

LA MP CHIMNE YS, To Prevent Breaking.
-To prevent lamp glasses breaking by the sud—
den contact with heat, the best wa is to cut or
scratch the base of the glass wit a glazier’s
diamond. Another method is to put the glasses

 

159
into a saucepan of water and boil them. This
seasons them.

LAMPS, To Prevent Smoking—Soak the
wick in strong vinegar, .and dry it well before
you use it; it will then burn both sweet and
pleasant, and give much satisfaction for the trifl-
ing trouble taken in preparing it.

LAMP W1 CK S, Home Marian—A good sub-
stitute for a regular lamp-wick may be made of
canton flannel, taking a strip three times as wide
as the lamptube, and folding it, overcasting the
open edge. The little bits can thus be utilized,
and many times considerable annoyance saved by
having a supply of these needed articles always
in the house.

LEAK, To Stop a.-——Beat yellow soap and
whiting, with a little water, into a thick paste.
Rub this over the part where the leakage is and
it will be instantly sto ed.

LEA THER (BLOCK) 0}“ OLD FURNL
T URE, T o Restore—Eggs, yolk and white well
beaten, 6 parts; treacle, x part ; isinglass, I part;
water, 5 parts. Dissolve the isinglass in the
water, then add it to the other articles. Mix well.
Color with lampblack. This also forms a good
varnish for dress shoes.

LINEZV, Care OfZ—When linen is well dried
and laid by for use, nothing more is necessary
than to secure it from damp and insects. The
latter may be agreably performed by a judicious
mixture of aromatic shrubs and flowers, cut up
and sewed up in silken bags, to be interspersed
among the drawers and shelves. These ingre-
dients may consist of lavender, thyme, roses,
cedar shavings, powdered sassafras, cassia lignea,
&c., into which a few drops of otto of roses, or
other strongscented perfume, may be thrown.
In all cases, it will be found more consistent with
economy to examine and repair all washable ar-
ticles, more especially linen, that may stand in
need of it, previous to sending them to the laun-
dry. It will also be prudent to have every ar-
ticle carefully numbered, and so arranged, after
washing, as to have their regular turn and term
in domestic use.

LINEZV, To Remove Fruit Slain: in.-—To
remove them, rub the part on each side with
yellow soap, then tie up a piece of pearl-ash in
the cloth, &c., and soak well in hot water, or
boil; afterwards expose the stained part to the
sun and air until removed.

[NE/V, To Take Ink Out OfI—Ink spots
maybe effectually removed from linen by a simple
and ready process. Take a piece of tallow, melt
it, and di the spotted part of the linen into the
tallow; t e linen may be washed and the spot
will disappear, the linen remaining uninjured.

LINEZV, To Take Marking 172% Out OfI~—-A
saturated solution of cyanuret of potassium, ap-
plied with a camel’s-hair brush. After the mark-
ing ink disap ears, the linen should be well
washed in col water. v;

LINEZV, To Remove Mould Frown—Spots of
mould on fabrics can, it is said, he removed from
cotton or linen, by first rubbing them over with
butter and afterwards applying potassa moistened
with a little water, and then rubbing the spot,
when all traces of it will disappear.

LINEIV, T 0 Remove Stain: From—Stains
caused by acids can be removed b wetting the
part and laying it on some salt 0 wormwood;
then rub it without diluting it with more water.
01', tie up in stained part some perlash; then

160

DICTIONARY 0F EVER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

scrape some soap into cold soft water, to make a
lather, and boil the linen till the stain disa pears.
Recent stains of fruit may be removed by olding
the linen tightly stretched over a tub and pouring
hot water over the part. This must be done be-
fore any soap has been ap lied to it. As soon
as the stain is made on tab e linen, etc., rub on
it common table salt, before it has had time to
dry; the salt will keep it damp till the cloth is
washed, when the stain will disappear; or, wash
the stain lightly when the cloth is removed.

LINEIV, To Make FIRE PRO0F.——A quan-
tity of phosphoric acid lime is dissolved in water;
to this a little ammonia is added and the whole
filtered and discolored with animal carbon. It
is then put on the fire and left to evaporate until
it is concentrated, when gelatine and five per
cent. silicic acid is added, and again reduced by
evaporation to a crystallic substance, which is
dried and pulverized. This owder is called
“Hottina”, from the name of t e inventor. The
cloth to be made fire-proof is dipped in asolution
made of thirty per cent. of the above powder,
thirty-five per cent.of gum, and thirty-five per
cent. of starch. The cloth, when dry, will be
perfectly fire-proof, and preserve its color.

LINEN (SC ORCHED) T o Re:tore.—Take
two onions, peel and skin them, and extract the
'uice by squeezing or pounding. Then cut up

alf an ounce of white soap, and two ounces of
fuller’s earth ; mix with them the onion juice,
and half a pint of vinegar. Boil the composition
well, and spread it when cool over the scorched
part of the linen, leaving it to dry thereon. Af-
terward wash out the linen.

LOOA’ING GLASSES, To Chara—Take a
newspaper, or part of one, according to the size
of the glass. Fold it small, and dip it intoa basin
of clean cold water; when thoroughly wet,
squeeze it out in your hand as you would a
s onge, and then rub it hard all over the face of
t e glass, taking care that it is not so Wet as to
run down in streams. In fact, the paper must
only be completely moistened, or damped all
through. After the glass has been well rubbed
with a wet paper, let it rest a few minutes, and
then go over it with a fresh dry newspaper
(folded small in your hand), till it looks clear
and bright—which it Will almost immediately,
and with no further trouble.

This method, simple as it is, is the best and
most expeditious for cleaning mirrors, and it will
be found so on trial—giving it a clearness and
polish that can be produced by no other process.

tis equally convenient, speedy, and effective.
The inside of window frames may be cleaned in
this manner to look beautifully clear; the win-
. dows being first washed on the outside.

MAHOGANY FURNITURE, To Give a
Good Colar to.—Let the tables be wasth per.
fectly clean with vinegar, having first taken out
any ink-stains there may be, with spirits of salt.
Use the following liquid: Into a int of cold
drawn linseed oil, put a mixture ofalkanet-root
and rose pink in an earthen vessel; let it remain
all night, then, stirring well, rub some of it all
over the tables with a linen rag; when it has lain
some time, rub it bright with linen cloths.

MARBLE, T a Clam—Take 2 ounces of
common soda, and one of pummice stone, and
one of finely powdered chalk; sift them through
a fine sieve and mix them with water. Then
rub the mixture well all over the marble, and the

 

stains will be removed; now wash the marble
over with soap and water, and it will be as clean
as it was previous to its being stained. Some-
times the marble is stained yellow with ironrust;
this can be removed with lemon juice.

MARBLE, T a mew Grease 07' Oil in.—
French chalk reduced to powder, dusted over
the spot, and a hot flat-iron held very near, to
soften the grease and make the chalk absorb it.
If this will not do, try common clay mixed with
benzine smeared over the spot.

MARBLE, T 0 Remove Smoke-stain: from.—
Take a large lump of Spanish whiting, soak it in
water, not more than enough to moisten it, and
put into the water a piece of washing soda ; put
some of this whiting on a flannel, and rub the
marble repeatedly, leaving the whiting on for
some hours. Wash it all of? with soap and
water, dry well, and polish with a soft duster.

MARKETING, Hint: on.—The purchaser
will do well to keep in view one or two simple
rules. Whatever kind of provisions may be re.
quired, it is invariably the wisest course to deal
with those tradespeople who have a large busi-
ness, and who are known and respectable. It
is the interest of such persons to supply their
customers with the best articles, and for this pur-
pose they themselves must go to the best markets.
As a general rule they are under no temptation
to overcharge their customers. Their success in
business and their profit depend on the number
of their retail transactions, and if the number be
great, they are all the more able to supply the
best articles, and to be content with the smallest
profits on each individual sale. As an illustration
of this it may be stated that, with very few ex-
ceptions, all commodities are dearer, as well as
of inferior quality, in shops in the suburbs than
in those situated in places of the greatest con-
course: the reason is that small dealers, who
have comparatively few transactions, must neces~
sai-ily make u for the defects of their business
by obtaining large profits on individual sales,
while, at the same time, they have little or no
encouragement to obtain the best goods, and in
many cases want of suflicient capital renders this
impracticable. It will be usually found, how.
ever, that there is no economy in purchasing in.
ferior articles. In butcher’s meat, for example,
the best meat, and the best parts of the meat,
although at first a little dearer, are in reality
cheaper in the end.

MILDE PV, T a Remove—Mix soft soap with
powdered starch,half as much salt, and the juice
of a lemon ; lay the mixture on both sides of the
stain with a painter’s brush; let it lie on the grass
day and night till the mildew mark disappears.

MOULD INBOOR'S AND INK, To Pre-
vent—A few drops of lavender will save a li-
brary from mould ; a single drop will save a pint
of ink. A little salt or white wine will also pre~
serve ink from mould.

MUSLINS, T a Make Uninflammablt.—Tung-
state of soda, prepared expressly for rendering
fabrics noninflammable, is used for this purpose.
Directions for use :——To 3 parts of dry starch
add I part of tungstate of soda, and use the
starch in the ordinary way. If the material does
not require starching, mix in the proportions of
I pound of tungstate of soda to 2 gallons. of
water, saturate the fabric well with this solution
and dry it. The heat of the iron in no way af-
fects the non-inflammabiiity.

HOUSEHOLD MISCELLAN Y.

161

 

01L CLOTIY, I-Iaw T o Clean.—-—Toruin them
—clean them with hot water or sea suds, and
leave them half wiped, and they wil look very
bright _while wet, and ver dingy and dirty when
dry, and soon crack an peel ofl‘. But if you
wish to preserve them, and have them look new
and nice, wash them with soft flannel and luke-
warm water and wipe thoroughly dry. If you
want them to look extra nice, after they are dry,
drop a few spoonfuls of milk over them, and rub
them with a small dry cloth.

01L (KEROSENE), To Tent—The only
reliable test is the temperature of the flashing
point, that is, the temperature at which the pe-
troleum takes fire when a burning match is ap-
plied to its surface. This test can be easily ap-

lied. Into a flat dish or saucer, pour the oil to
be tried, until it is at least half an inch deep;
then hold a burning match or paper near the sur-
face. At the point of contact the combustion is
often very lively, as the taper draws up some
of the liquid, but if the petroleum be safe
and free from naphtha, the flame does not spread
over the surface. If the petroleum has been
adulterated, as soon as the match touches the
surface a blue lambent flame flashes across it,
and in a few moments the body of the oil will be
on fire. Such an oil is dangerous—liable to ex-
plode in lamps, and to give off inflammable va-
pors at all times. Any oil which takes fire when
a match is held near its surface, and continues to
burn, ought to be condemned at once and thrown
into the streets.

OVENAND IRON WARE (New) To Tem-
fier.—-Before new ovens are used, they should

e heated half a day, and then put up the lid to
keep the heat in. When heated the second time,
they may be used for baking. If not treated in
this way, they will never retain heat well. New
flat-irons should be heated half a day before they
are used. Iron ware of all kinds, and stoves
should be heated gradually at first or they may
crack.

PAINT, To Clean—Provide a plate with
some of the best whiting to be had, and have
ready some clean warm water and a piece of
flannel, which dip into the water and squeeze
nearly dry; then take as much whiting as will
adhere to it, apply it to the painted surface, when
a little rubbing will instantly remove any dirt or
grease. After which wash well with clean water,
rubbing it dry with soft flannels. Paint thus
cleaned looks as well as when first laid on, with-
out any injury to the most delicate colors. It is
far better than using soap, and does not require
more than half the time and labor.

PAINT, T 0 Remove Odor on—Place a vessel
full of lighted charcoal in the middle of the room
and throw on it two or three handfuls of juniper
berries. Shut closely the windows, doors and
all means of ventilation for about twenty-four
hours, when they may be opened and it will be
found that the unpleasant smell will be entirely
gone. This will not injure articles left in the room,
such as tapestry, etc., and can be considered
reliable.

PA PER-HA NGINGS, To Gleam—Cut into
8 half-quarters a stale quartern loaf; with one
of these pieces, after having blown off all the
dust from the paper to be cleaned by means of a
good air of bellows, begin at the top of the
room, olding the crust in the hand, and wiping
lightly downward with the crumb, about half a

 

yard at each stroke, till the upper part of the
hangings is completely cleaned all r0und;then
go again round with the like sweeping stroke
downward, always commencing each successive
course a little higher than the upper stroke had
extended, till the bottom be finished. This op-
eration, if carefully performed, will frequently
make very old paper look almost equal to new.
Great caution must be used not by any means to
rub the paper hard, nor to attempt cleaning it
the cross or horizontal way. The dirty part of
the bread too must be each time cut away, and
the pieces renewed as often as is necessary.

PAPER-HANGINGS (Poz'ronaur), lestflrr.
-—A good test for poisonous paper-hanging is
common spirits of hartshorn, or ammonia is a
sure one of arsenic. On application the beautiful
but dangerous green turns to a blue. The ex-
istence of arsenicin rooms hung with green paper
may also be immediately detected by lighting a
bit of the suspected paper at a candle. When
the paper is well lighted, blow it out, then smell
the smoke, if it contains arsenic, the smell will
be that of garlic.

PAPER, To Remove Stain: frown—The pro-
cess must depend on what the stains are. If they
are those of writing ink, a solution of citric, tar-
taric, or oxalic acid will be successful. If grease,
take a heated iron and press it upon blotting-
paper placed on the stains. After this process
has been frequently repeated, take a soft brush
and apply oil of turpentine to the stains on both
sides of the paper; lastly, with a clean brush,
apply to the spots already almost gone rectified
spirit of wine.

PAPER, To T aka "flitting Out afi—Solutionu
of muriate of tin, two drachms ; water, four
drachms. To be applied with a camel’s hair:
brush. After the writing has disappeared, the‘
paper should be passed through water, and
dried.

PAPER-IVA CHE, T o Clean.—VVash the
article well with cold water and a sponge, dust,
flour over it while still damp, and rub dry with-
flannel.

PEWTER, To Clank—Apply to the surface
of the vessels a fine sand mixed with oil of tartar;
then polish.

PICTURE FRAMES, To Prevent Flier:
From Injuring.~Boil three or four onions in a;
pint of water: then with a gilding brush do over
your glasses and frames, and the flies will not
alight on the article so washed. This may be
used without apprehension, as it will not do the
least injury to the frames.

PICTURES, How To Hang.~—The worst
position in which a painting can be placed is
directly opposite a window, as its surface so re-
flects the light that the object cannot be seen
except from a side view. The picture ought to-
be hung so as to allow the light from the win-
dow to fall upon it from the same side in which
the artist saw or imagined the picture to appear
in nature; that is to say, the shadows in the pic-
ture ought to be on that side of the objects which
is opposite to the direction from which the light
comes : for example, in the case of a tree or
house, if the window is on the right hand the
shadows on the picture must be towards the left
hand of the observer, as if projected from the
right side to the left, as would be the case in
nature if the light fell upon the rightof the ob-
jects perceived.

162

DICTIQIVARY OF EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

PLATE, How To Claim—In the first place
every particle of grease must be removed by
means of a thorough hot soap suds in which is
dissolved a small bit of cooking soda, it must
then be thoroughly rinsed in clear warm water,
and wiped with a dry soft towel or a piece of
wash leather. It may then be rubbed with fine
whiting with a bit of flannel or Chamois skin; if
there are stains on the plate the whiting should
be rubbed on mixed with water or a little sweet
oil and allowed to remain several hours, but if
the silver is merely tarnished it will be sufficient
to give it a dry polish by using the whiting of
very fine plate powder, dry, and polishing by a
soft wash leather, cleansing the chased portions
with a soft bristle brush.

All plate and silver in common use should be
cleaned at least once a week, but too severe rub-
bing will soon wear out even the celebrated
Sheffield plate.

Plate should be well protected in a dry closet
or drawer; a box lined with flannel is the best
article. The practice of leaving plate exposed
on the side board is injurious to the plate, from
the fact that there exists in the air a portion of
sulphureted hydrogen gas, which turns the sil-
ver black.

Another habit of melting off spermaceti from
candle-sticks by placing them near the fire is also
destructive; if moderately hot water will not re-
move the grease, a little alcohol will.

POTS, (IRON) To Mend.-—Mix finely sifted
lime with some white of an egg, till a thin kind
of paste is formed, then add some iron filings.
Apply this to the fracture, and the vessel will be
found nearly as sound as ever.

PU T T Y, To [tartaric—Putty that has become
hardened may be rendered soft, so as to be
easily removed, by the application of a hot iron
to it. In this way it may be readily removed,
where glass is broken, without injury to the sash.

UMBRELLAS, To Make Lax! Twice A:
Long A: Urual.—Most persons, when they come
in from the rain, put their umbrellas in the rack
with the handle upward. They should put it
downward; because when the handle is upward
the water runs down inside to the lace where
the ribs are joined to the handle, and) cannot get
out, but stays rotting the cloth and rusting the
metal until slowly dried away. The wire secur-
ing the ribs soon rusts and breaks. If placed the
other end up, the water readily runs off, and the
umbrella dries almost immediatel .

VEN T ILA T 1 01V, How tardy to secure.—
For ventilation, open your windows at top and
bottom. The fresh air rushes in one way and
the foul air makes its excit by the other.

RAZOR STRAP, To Renew—Rub clean tal-
low over the surface, then apply the fine snufi’ings
pf a1 candle, or rub the strap with soft pewter or
ea .

RIBBONS 0R SILK T o K’elflr—In putting
away ribbons or silk, wrap or fold them in coarse
brown paper, which, as it contains a portion of
tar or turpentine, will preserve the color of the
article, and prevent white silk from turning yel-
low. The chloride of lime used in manufacturing
white paper renders it improper to keep silks in,
aslit frequently causes them to spot or to change
(:0 or.

RUG, To Make a.—A very economical rug
an be made in the following manner: take coffee-
sacks and sew together of the required size,

 

which fasten upon a rough frame of lath nailed
together. Trace a design in the center—for in-
stance a diamond, and a waved or pointed bor-
der. Geometrical designs are usually rettier
than those miserable, stifl‘ masses called flowers.
To work this sacking as if it were canvas, prepare
balls of assorted rags sewed together, as for car-
pets, except that they must be cut evenly and not
more than half an inch wide; wind each color in
a separate ball. Now take a large hook— on can
manufacture one from a piece of wire. ut the
strip to be worked underneath, and insert the
hook from the upper side, catch the strip below,
and draw it up through the foundation about one
half an inch, making a loop; put the hook through
the next diagonal place, and draw up another
loop; proceed in this way, following the outline
of the center design. Three times around is
enough of the outline color; then work the out—
line of the border, and fill up the margin. Fill
up the inside figure with a contrasting color.
Next work the corners; and fill up the ground
with a dark color. Remove from frame and hem
the edges underneath the work. This rug is
durable, and can be made quite handsome, with
good colors.

RUGS, (SHEEPSKIN) To Clean.-—Make
a very strong lather, by boiling soap in a. little
water, mix this with a sufficient quantity of water
(rather more than luke-warm), to wash the mat
or rug in, and rub boiled soap on those portions
of it which require additional cleansing. When
the mat has been well washed in this water, pre-
pare another lather in the same way, in which a
second washing must take place, followed by a
third, which ought to be sufficient to cleanse it
thoroughly. Rinse it well in cold water until
all the soap is removed, and then put it in water
in which a little blue has been mixed, sufiicient
to keep the wool of a good white, and prevent its
inclinin to yellow. After this it should be
thoroug 1y wrung, shaken, and hung out in the
open air with the skin part towards the sun, but
not while it is scorching, otherwise the skin will
become hard. It must also be shaken often while
drying, for if not it will be quite stiff and crackly.
It should be frequentl turned, being hung u
first by one end and t en by the other, until it
has dried entirely.

SILVER, To Give Lurler To.—Dissolve a
quantity of alum in water, so as to make a pretty
strong brine, and skim it carefully; then add
some soap to it, and dip a linen rag in it, and rub
over the silver.

511. VER ORNAMENTS, To Chum—Boil
them in soap and water for five minutes; then
put them in a basin with the same hot soap and
water, and scrub them gently with a very soft
brush while hot; then rinse and dry with a linen
rag. Heat a piece of common unglazed earthen
ware, or a piece of brick or tile in the fire; take
it off, and lace the ornaments upon it for the
purpose 0 drying them, and causing every par-
ticle of moisture to evaporate; as the morsture,
which otherwise would remain on the silver, will
cause it to tarnish, or assume a greenish hue. All
ornaments, whether gold or silver, can be kept
from tarnishing if they are careful] covered from
the air in boxwood sawdust, whic Will also dry
them after being washed.

SILVER FLA TE, To Take Slain: Out Of;
—Steep the late in soap lyes for the space of
four hours; then cover it over with whiting, wet

HOUSEHOLD MISCELLANYZ

with vinegar, so that it may stick thick upon it,
and dry it by a fire; after which rub off the
whiting, and pass it over with dry bran, and the
spots will not only disappear, but the plate Will
look exceedingly bright.

SPOTS, GREASE, To R677!0‘U£’.-—-I. Take
benzine, 20 ounces; alcohol (strong), 5 ounces;
ether, 2 drachms ; ammonia, I ’drachm.—2. (7a-
wll: water.) Take bleaching powder, I ounce;
mrbonate of potassa, I ounce; water, 33 ounces.
Triturate the bleaching powder in the cold with
25 ounces of water, then add the carbonate of
potassa, previously dissolved in the rest of the
water, shake well and let it settle. The super-
natant liquor is filtered, if necessary, and mixed
with one ounce of hydrochloric acid, when it is
ready for use.

SPOTS, (GREASE) To lake out of Silk.
—-Take a lump of magnesia, and rub it wet over
the spot; let it dry, then brush the powder off,
and the spot will disappear; or, take a’visiting
card, separate it, and rub the spot with the soft
internal part, and it will disappear without taking
the gloss off the silk.

STAIzVS 0F NITRA TE 0F SILVER, To
Remove—Grimm states in a German journal that
chloride of copper completely removes nitrate of
silver stains from colored cotton cloth. It should
afterward be washed with hyposulphite of soda,
and then thoroughly washed with water. Such
stains are more effectually removed from white
cotton or linen cloth, by applying to it a dilute
solution of permanganate of potash and hydro-
chloric acid, which is to be followed by washing
with hyposulphite of soda and plain water. This
process renders the use of the highly poisonous
cyanide of potassium unnecessary.

STEEL ARTICLES, To Preserve from
Rust, wfim not in Use—Sleigh runners, skates,
&c., which are only used for a limited time during
the year, may be effectually preserved from rust
by a coating of common lard and pulverized black
lead, containing a little camphor.

STEEL, T 0 Remove R US T frown—This can
be done by a free application of kerosene oil,
allowing the oil to remain on until the rust is
loosened, and can be rubbed off.

S T OPPER (Glass) T a [Panama—Apply hot
water to the neck of the bottle, which will expand,
while the stopper retains its former temperature
and becomes loose.

S T 0 VES BLA CKIN G.—Blacking'for stoves
may be made with % a pound of black lead finely
powdered, and (to make it stick) mix with it the
whites of 3 eggs well beaten ; then dilute it with
sour beer or porter till it becomes as thin as
shoe-blacking; after stirring it, set it over hot
coals to simmer for 20 minutes; when cold it may
be kept for use.

TABLES, To remove Mark: from.——If a
whitish mark is left on a table, by carelessly set-
ting on a pitcher of boiling water, or a hot dish,
pour some lamp oil on the spot, and rub it hard
with a soft cloth. Then pour on a little spirits
of wine or cologne water, and rub it dry with
another cloth. The white mark will thus dis-
appear, and the table look as well as ever.

TAR, PITCH 0R TURPErVTIIVE, To Rt-
move.——Scrape off as much as you can; then wet
the place thoroughly with good salad oil, and let
it remain for twenty-four hours. If linen or
cotton wash it out in strong warm soap-suds ; if

 

153

woollen or silk, take out the oil with ether or '
spirits of wine.

If the stain is of tar, you may remove it (after
scra ing and wiping), by using cold tallow in-
stea of sweet oi . Rub and ress well on the
spot a small lump of good ta low, and leave it
sticking there till next day. Then proceed as
above.

TEA-KETTLE, To Clean.—Put into the
tea-kettle a flat oyster-shell, and keep it constantly
there. It will attract the stony particles that are
in the water to itself, and prevent their forming
upon the tea-kettle.

T 11V, flow T a Clean.-Never use lye to clean
tin, it will soon spoil it. Make it clean with
suds, and rub it with whiting, and it will look
well, and last much longer.

TINJ’ANS, How To Mend—This can be
done quickly and easily by the use of putty, and
is much better than to throw them away. Put
it on the outside; let it dry thoroughly, and they
will never need mending in the same place again.

WALLS (DAMP), Remedyfon-An excellent
remedy for damp walls is washing them with a
strong solution of alum.

WALL-PAPER, To Exlmrt Grease Staim‘
fram.—Oil marks can be taken from the paper
on drawing-room walls, and marks where people
have rested their heads, by mixing pipeclay with
water to the consistency of cream, laying it on
the spot, and letting it remain till the following
day, when it may be easily removed with a pen-
knife or brush. ,

WA T ER, How To T est—Mechanical im-
purities in water are removed only by filtration ;
chemical impurities cannot be removed in this
manner. If lime is supposed to be present in
water, the best test is to mix with it a small quan~
tity of oxalic acid in a small vessel ; lime, if pres-
ent, will be revealed in a white precipitate. Car-
bonate of iron is best detected by the tincture of
galls, which produces a black precipitate. If
the penknife, dipped in water, assumes a yellow-
ish coating, copper is present. The best method
of detecting the presence of vegetable and animal
matter is by dropping into it a small quantity of
sulphuric acid; the water becomes black.

WATER, Purification of.-—-— Mr. Booth, of
Birmingham, England, has lately made known a
very simple process for disengaging from water
all organic matters. By this method it is suffi-
cient to prepare a neutral solution of bi-sulphate
of alumina, and add the water to be urified in
the proportion of one ounce to 435 ga lons. As
soon as this is done, a cloud is formed in the li-
quor, and flocks rapidly descend, taking to the
bottom all organic matters, and debarrassing the
water of all coloring matter, and disagreeable
taste and smell. In six or eight hours the deposit
is complete. The principle of this operation is
the following: All water contains bi-carbonate of
lime, in a more or less proportion. The sul-
phuric acid of the bi-sulp ate of alumina com-
bines with the lime to form a sulphate of lime
nearly insoluble, which is precipitated. The
hydrate of alumina becomes free, and forms with
the organic matters an insoluble product. The
carbonic acid of the bi-carbonate is set free and
communicates to the water an agreeable taste.
For very hard waters, it is sufficient to add to
them a very weak dose of bi-carbonate of soda,
to entirely free them of their excess of lime.

WA T ER (Muddy) T o Chara—Water other-

164

pkrzoszR Y 0F EVER mm y WANTS.

 

wise ure, but contaminated simply with clay (as
may e the case with the water of rivers after
heavy rain or fall of snow), becomes at once clari-
fied by very minute quantities of some salts of
lime; one thousandth part of chloride of calcium
for one part of water effects this purpose in a
moment; the nitrate, bi-carbonate, and caustic
lime act in the same manner. The preci itated
substance may be readily separated from t e wa-
ter by filtration, whereas the filtration of the wa-
ter containing the suspended matter is very diffi-
cult, because the pores of the filters become
choked. The practical importance of this matter
is very great, since it is, for instance, a well-
known fact that the water of some rivers does
not, in winter time, and after heavy rain-fall or
snow-storms, become quite clear, even if left at
rest in large ponds for a considerable time.

WA TEE FIL TER, Home - made. — Rain
water is much healthier than hard water as a bev-
erage; and the following will be found an easy
and cheap way to fit it for drinking urposes:

Have an oak tub made, holding rom half, to
a barrel, according to the amount of water needed
in the family; let it stand on end, with a faucet
near the bottom; or, I prefer a hole through the
bottom, near the front side, with a tube in which
prevents the water from rotting the outside of the
tub; then put clean pebbles 3 or 4 inches in
thickness over the bottom of the tub; now have
charcoal pulverized to the size of small peas (that
made from hard maple is best) and put in half a
bushel or so at a time; pound it down quite
firmly, then put in more and pound again until
the tub is filled to within 8 inches of the top; and
again put on 2 inches more of pebbles; then put
a piece of clean white flannel over the whole top
as a strainer.

The flannel can be washed occasionally, to re-
move the impurities collected from the water, and
it might be well to put a flannel between the
pebbles and charcoal at the bottom also. When
the charcoal becomes foul, it can be renewed as
before, but will work a year without renewing.

WINDO WS, To C lean—Remove stains and
dust with soap and water, then apply with a
moistened rag powdered indigo, rotten-stone, or
fuller’s earth. Dry with a soft cotton cloth.

WINDOW GLASS, To Prevent tIze Sun
from Parsing T [troughs—Pound gum tragacanth
to a powder, and put it, for twenty-four hours,
to dissolve in white of eggs, well-beaten. Lay
a coat of this on your glass with a soft brush, and
let it dry.

WINDOWSASHES, To Prevent Rattlz'ng.
—-The sashes in very many costly and elegant
dwellings are frequently so' loose from some
cause, that when winds blow even gently they
will rattle and bang from stop to stop, like the

 

shrunken and decayed portions of some forsaken
and dilapidated castle. The remedy is by no
means difficult or expensive. Let the sashes be
taken out of the window frame, and every part
of the window examined. If the jamb-casmgs
have been sprung, or are warped and twisted,
the first step will be to remove the stops and
straighten the face of the casings, which may be
done most conveniently with a large rabbet-plane
and a smoothing-plane. In case the sashes should
be much too narrow for the frame, let one edge
be dressed off true, and a thin strip fitted neatly,
and glued and nailed to the edge of one stile.
See that the outside edge of such stile is not ta'
pering, even by the thickness of a heavy shaving.
When the stile are tapering only a trifle, the
sashes cannot be moved up and down easily.
Now put the upper sash in its place, and fasten
the central stop with two or three long, slender
wood screws, after which remove the outside
stops and place them so closely to the stiles oi
the sash that the window will not rattle. Then
let the stops be secured on the inside so closely
to the stiles of the sash that will move up and
down easily, without having so much play that
the wind will rattle it. When the sashes have
been fitted as directed, there will be no more
need of “weather strips” of any kind to exclude
dust and cold air, and the expense of refitting a
window as directed will be much less than the
cost of weather stri s.

WINDOWSASHES, To [Gap in Place.—
These may be kept up without sash-lines and
pulleys, by means of cork, in the simplest manner,
and with scarcely any expense. Bore three or
four holes in the sides of the sash, into which in-
sert common bottle corks, projecting about the
sixteenth part of an inch. These will press
against the window-frames, along the usual
groove, and by their elasticity support the sash at
any height which may be required.

WEIGHTS AND filEASUKESHome/zola’.
—Wheat flour weighs one pound to a quart.
Indian meal, one pound two ounces to a quart.
Butter, when soft, one pound to a quart. Loaf
sugar, broken, one pound to a quart. White
sugar, powdered, one pound one ounce to a quart.
Eggs, average size, ten to a pound.

WOOD (Ntw) To Range/e Tart: frown—A
new keg, churn, bucket, or other wooden vessel
will generally communicate a disagreeable odor
to anything that is put into it. To prevent this
inconvenience first scald the vessel with boiling
water, letting the water remain in it till cold.
Then dissolve some arlash or soda in lukewarm
water, adding alittle it of lime to it, and wash the
inside of the vessel well with the solution. After-
ward scald it well with plain hot water, and rinse
it with cold water before you use it.

HOUSEHOLD PETS.

A VIARY, T Ira—Strictly speaking, an aviary
is a considerable space fitted up and adapted to
actommodate a large number and variety of birds
remarkable for their singing qualities, the beauty

of their plumage, or other'peculiarities. A:
aviary, as a matter of course, is a large cage in
which an attempt is made to give a natural ap-
pearance to the interior of the place where the

 

HOUSEHOLD PETS.

r63“

 

feathered prisoners are confined. Perches re-
sembling the branches of trees, grass, moss,
various plants, patches of gravel or sand, a r111
of clear water, secluded places for nests—in a
word, everything is provided that the birds can
require short of liberty; which, indeed, in a cli-
mate like ours, and in the absence of those na-
tural supplies so easily obtained in their native
places, would be a more than doubtful blessing
to many of them, inasmuch as no foreign species
would long survive emancipation.

In a large aviary possessed of all such appli-
ances as we have adverted to, favorably situated
and carefully attended, most of the little captives
will thrive and be cheerful, and many of them
will build and bring up their young. Such estab~
lishments, however, are rare; and it may be
doubted whether the expense, trouble, and anx-
iety inseparable from the keeping of them, are
not too great for any satisfaction which they pro-
duce. This, however, is a matter of opinion.

A QUA R1 Ufll ( 7726) Principles qfi ~——- The
aquarium may consist either of salt water, with
marine animals and plants, or fresh water with
fresh water animals and vegetable life. But wheth-
er the one or the other be chosen, the principle
on which its freshness and actual existence depend
is the same—namely, the proper balance between
the oxygen given off by the plants and the carbon
thrown off by the fish or other animals; the com-
bination of the two gases preserving the water
pure, keeping the animals alive, and sustaining
the growt and renewal of the plants. The scien-
tific principle by which we imitate nature in the
aquarium is very well explained by Sir David
Brewster: “Water has the power of absorbing
certain uantities of atmospheric air and various
gases ; t e presence of air gives to rain and spring
water their refreshing qualities, as may be proved
by expelling the air from water by boiling and
then tasting the insipid liquor that remains. Or-
dinary water always contains a certain amount of
atmospheric air and also a trace of carbonic acid,
which gas is a compound of oxygen and carbon
in the proportion of sixteen to six. The leaves
of plants when acted upon by light, decompose
this gas, and, having no necessity for oxygen,
they merely absorb the carbon. Animals, on the
other hand, require oxygen for the purpose of
removing the waste carbon of great divisions of
organized beings. But two other elements play
an important part in the phenomenon of life—
namely, nitrogen and hydrogen. Both plants
“and animals require these gases as food. They
combine to form ammonia, which is found in
small portions in the atmosphere and in water.
Ammonia is indeed the main fertilizing element
in vegetable life. Plants obtain their supply of
it either through the natural water absorbed at
their rootlets, or by means of artificial manures;
animals, through the means of the substances
they devour. All forms of vegetable and animal
life are built up of these four elements.”

AQUARIUM How t0 Male: and Fill.—
First, as to the tank or globe—the receptacle for
ylplur water and its living plants and animals.

hether you determine on a marine or a fresh
water aquarium, the tank is the same. It may
be either square or round. If square or rectang-
ular, it should be perfectly water tight,witha plain
piece of lass to lace loosely over the top at
night an. when tfih room is being dusted. A
propagating glass turned upside down forms a

 

good, strong round tank, which may be pur-
chased cheaply of the dealers in horticultural
glass; lately, indeed, they have been made of

aceful shape in perfectly white glass, purposely
or use as aquaria. The advantage of square over
round tanks, is that they do not enlarge or distort
the objects seen within them.

Having bought your tank, your next task is to
fill and stock it. It must be prepared for the
plants and animals by placing at the bottom a
layer of stones and gravel: fresh water gravel
for fresh water, stones and sand for salt water.
These form a basis or foundation for the roots of
the plants. It is well also to have a little rock
work rising from the bottom, just above the sur-
face of the water. Then fill it with water. For
a fresh water aquarium, ordinary water will do,
but for a marine aquarium you must have the
proper sea water. Do not try the artificial sea
water advertised, but get a sufficient quantity
from the sea itself, taken at some distance from '
the shore. This you can procure withdit much
trouble or expense. But if real sea water is very
difficult to procure, the following mixture will
form a tolerably good substitute. It so nearly
assimilates to the actual composition of salt water
that it will support life in the marine aquarium:
Common salt (chloride of sodium) 3% ounces;
Epsom salts (sulphate of magnesia), % ounce;
chloride of magnesium, 200 grains troy ; chloride
of potassium, 40 grains ‘troy. These materials,
properly dissolved, are to be added to four quarts
of common soft water, the same proportions being
observed if you enlarge the quantity.

A QUARIUAI, flame Mada—Cut a narrow
groove in a board the size you wish, set four
pieces of glass on edge in the grooves; put a
piece of zinc in the bottom; on the board make
a light frame, the size of the top, with grooves ;
pass a small rod through the frame down the in-
side of the corners, through the bottom, and
screw up tight; put cement in all the corners,
and you will have an aquarium at very trifling
cost. To make the cement, take one part, by
measure, of litharge ; one part plaster of Paris;
one part fine beach sand; one-third part 'fine
powdered rosin; mix all together. This may be
kept for years, while dry, in a well-corked bottle ;
when used, make in a putty with boiled linseed
oil ; a little patent dryer may be used; it will
stand water at once, either salt or fresh.

AQUARIUM (FRESH WA YER), To
Illness—Presuming that you begin with a fresh
water aquarium, you will find the best weed to
grow in the water is the anacharis alsinastrum,
the weeds which often choke the canals and in-
land streams. This pretty moss-like plant may
be easily procured from almost any canal at any
time of the year. Another weed which does ad-
mirably in the aquarium is the ranunculus aquti-
lis (the water crowfoot), which may be taken
from any pool during the spring months, and
placed in the tank, when it will send down roots
and grow abundantly. Be careful to remove all
broken or decaying shoots, and keep the weeds
from multiplying too fast, or the balance between
animal and vegetable life will be destroyed.

In stocking a fresh water aquarium great choice
is left for the young naturalist. He may have
small carp, gold fish, minnow, or almost any
kind of river fish, with water newts, or efts, or
even a good sized frog, which is b no means an
ugly or uninteresting animal. 'lihe frogs and

'

I66

newts will crawl occasionally to the top of the
rock and sun themselves. A diving spider is
also a good addition; but you must by no means
neglect a good sup ly of water snails and fresh
water shrimps, w ich will be found very useful
in eating away the conferva, or green slime-weed
that collects on the glass. Sticklebacks are very
amusing little fish, but they must be kept by
themselves, for the are quarrelsome fellows,
and have an ugly knack of poking their sharp
spikes into and mortally wounding the other in-
habitants of the tank. Some water beetles are
also harmless, but others prove a great nuisance.
You must avoid placing young pike in your tank,
though by themselves they are amusin .

A QUARIUM, (MARINE) To Make.——-For
the marine, or sea water aquarium, the sea ane-
mone (actinia) and various kinds of crabs may
be had in cat variety of the dealers; and if you
are fond caea side wandering you may procure
them for yourselves among the rocks and in the
little pcbls on the shore when the tide is out. Sea
snails, shrimps, star-fish, &c., may be introduced
at pleasure; while for the plants, any of the small
sea weeds will do. When gathered, a little piece
of the rock to which they grow should be chipped
off, and the plants placed in the tank without
being detached or bruised. The plants and rock-
work should be arranged icturesquely. Remove
any sick or dying anima s, so as to prevent the
water from becoming foul.

AQUARIUM, How to Manage w/zen
Complete.-—-The aquarium should be placed on a
stand or table in a good light; and if the sun
shine directly on either side, that part should be
protected by a green baize curtain which may be
removed when the sunshine departs. Once fixed,
the tank should not be disturbed. A window
with north-western or western aspect is a capital
situation. Be careful not to crowd your tank,
and when you find the water level getting too
low, raise it by addition of more water; but do
not meddle with the arrangement of the tank too
often or you will alarm your live stock. In the
management of the aquarium, as in other pet
fancies, cleanliness is the grand secret of success.

BIRDS, (T AME) Disorders 0f.—All tame
animals are much more subject to disease than
wild ones: and birds so much the more, as they
are often shut up in very small cages, where they
can take no exercise. It is often supposed that
birds, in their natural free state, have no diseases;
but people who will take the trouble to observe,
will soon perceive the falsehood of this assertion.
We have often found hedgeslparrows full of pim-
ples, particularl in the na ed parts, the feet,
and round the eak. Their diseases are often
increased by the delicacies of all kinds which are
given them, such as biscuits and sugar, which
injure the stomach, and cause a slow decay.

BIRDS, T Ire PIP in.—This is a catarrh, or
cold, by which the nostrils are stopped up, and
the membrane covering the tongue is hardened
by inflammation. In large birds it is common
to remove this skin, taking it off from the base to
the tip; by this means this part can again er-
spire, the saliva necessary for digestion can ow,
and the taste and appetite returns. A mixture
of fresh butter, pe per, and garlic, generally
cures this catarrh. t is a good thing, also, for
the birds to drink the pectoral infusion of speed-
well; and the nostrils may be opened by1 passing
up a small feather. The rutfmg of the cad, the

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

beak often open and yellow at its base, and the
tongue dry, are the most decisive indications of
this disease.

BIRDS, T lze Rheum in.-—The s ptoms of
this disease are frequent sneezing an shaking of
the head. Some drops of pectoral elixir in the

infusion of Speedwell, which the sick birds must

be made to take, appears to me to be the most
efixcacious remedy. Give fowls about 20 drops
of the elixir in a glass of the infusion.

When it is merely hoarseness, Dr. Handel, of
Mayence, gave to his birds for several days, as
their only drink, a very diluted decoction'of dry
figs, sweetened with a little sugar, and afterward
purged them for two days following, with the
juice of carrots.

BIRDS, Art/mm in.-——This is a very common
disease among house birds. Those attacked with
it have their breath short, often open their beaks
as if to gasp for more air, and, when agitated or
frightened, keep them open for a long time.

The cause of this disease may doubtless be
found in the mode of life which these birds lead.
Their food is generally too dry and heated, being
principally hemp seed, which is very injurious,
but liked by all; and is the more hurtful, as it
inclines them to eat too much. If to this be add-
ed the unchanged air of the rooms, particularly
those which have stoves instead of chimneys, and
the great heat which is kept up during winter, it
is plain that there is much to injure the delicate
lungs of these birds.

A moist and refreshing regimen and some ap-
erients, more or less often, according to the vio-
lence of the disease, appears the most appropriate
remedy. A favorite linnet and goldfinch, when
attacked with very had asthma, were relieved and
preserved for several years by the following
method.

The first thing was to leave off hempseed en-
tirely, confining them solely to rapeseed; but
giving them at the same time abundance of bread,
soaked in pure water, and then pressed; lettuce,
endive, or watercresses, according to the seasons,
twice a week, giving them boiled bread and milk,
about the size of a nutmeg. This is made 1)
throwing a piece of the crumb of white brea ,
about the size of a nut, into a teacupful of milk,
boiling it, and stirring it all the time with a wood-
en spoon till it is of the consistency of pap. It
must be quite cold before it is given to the birds,
and must always be made fresh, for if sour it will
prove injurious.

This paste, which they are very fond of, purges
them sufficiently, and sensibl relieves them. In
very violent attacks, nothing but this paste ought
to be given for two or three days following, and
this will soon give the desired relief.

When the disease is slight, or only begun it is
sufficient to give the bread and milk once in three
or four days. When employed under similar
circumstances, this treatment has cured several
very valuable birds. It may not be useless here
to renew the advice of always givin the birds an
opportunity of bathing every day, y utting 1n
their way a saucer, or any other sma 1 shallow
bath, filled with water, which should never be
too cold, and in winter always milk warm.

One thing which is very injurious to the lun
of birds, and which too often occurs, is the frig t
occasioned by tormenting them, or by seizing
them too suddenl ; for the poor little thilrifis
often rupture a blood-vessel in the breast w ' e

H0 USE}! OLD PETS.

beating themselves about; a drop of blood in the
beak is the sign, and a speedy death is the gene~
ral conse uence. If this does not happen, the
breathing is not the less difficult and painful; and
recovery is rare, at least without the greatest care
and attention.

Birds which eat insects and worms, occasion-
ally, by accident, swallow some extraneous sub-
stances, which, sticking in their throat, stops
their respiration, and stifles them. The only
remedy is to extract the foreign body, which re-
quires much skill and dexterity.

When asthma is brought on by eating seeds
which are too old, spoiled, or rancid, Dr. Handel
recommends some drops of oxymel to be swal-
lowed for eight days following. But the best way
is to change the seed, and be sure there is none
but good seed in the trough. _ .

BIRDS, A trap/1y or Wasting lib—Tllls 15
caused by giving unnatural food to the bird,
which destroys the digestive power of its stomach.
In this case it disgorges, ruffles its feathers, and
does not arrange them, and becomes thin very
fast. The best thing is to make it swallow a
common spider, which purges it, and put a rusty
nail into its water, which strengthens the intes-
tines, giving it at the same time its proper and
natural food. Green food, such as lettuce, endive,
chickweed, and particularly watercresses, is the
safest remedy. A very great appetite is a sign
of this disease. A siskin, that was dying of
atrophy, had nothing but watercresses for three
days following, and on the fourth he sung.

BIRDS, Consumption or Decline in. —This
disorder may be known by the extreme thinness
of the breast, the swelling of the lower part of
the belly, the total loss of appetite, and similar
symptoms. As a cure, Dr. Handel recommends
the juice of the wild turnip to be given to drink
instead of water.

BIRDS, Costiwnesr in.-—This disease may be
discovered from the fre uent unsuccessful en-
deavors of the bird to re ieve itself. Aperients
will be of use. If a spider does not produce the
desired effect, anoint the vent of the bird with the
head of a pin steeped in linseed oil; this sort of
clyster generally succeeds; but if the disease
attacks a bird which eats meal worms, one of
these, bruised in sweet oil and saffron, is the
most certain remedy, and the bird will swallow
it without the least hesitation. Boiled bread and
milk is generally of great use.

BIRDS, Diarr/uza in.——This is a disease to
which birds that have been caught recently
are very subject, before they are accustomed to
their new food. Most of these die of it; they
continually void a white calcareous matter, which
sticks to the feathers round the vent, and being
very acrid causes inflammation in that part and
in the intestines. Sometimes chalybeate water
and the oil clyster produce good effect; but it is
better, if possible, to procure for the bird its
most natural food. Some people pull out the
feathers from the tail and vent, and then rub
these parts with fresh butter, but this is a very
painful and cruel operation. They also mix the
{elk of an egg boiled very hard with their food,

ut we have never found this succeed very well.
If there be any hope of curing this disease it is
by attacking it at the beginning, before inflam-
mation is violent; boiled bread and milk, a great
deal of lettuce, or any other similar green re-
freshing food, in general completely cures them.

 

167

In a case of chronic diarrhoea, which almost
reduces the birds to skeletons, Dr. Handel pre-
scribes chalybeate water mixed with a little milk
for their drink, which, he says, is an easy and
certain cure.

BIRDS, Bloody Flux z'n.-—-This is a disease
with which some parrots are attacked. The best
remedy is to make the birds drink a great deal
of boiled milk, or even very fat broth; for their
intestines, which are very much irritated, re-
quire something soothing to protect them from
the acrid discharges, which, at the same time,
must be corrected by healing food. Birds in this
state generally do nothing but drink, therefore
plenty of boiled milk should be given them, as it
nourishes them as well as acts medicinally, but
should it appear to turn sour in the stomach it
must, at least for some time, be discontinued.

BIRDS, Obrlrnolion in 1/1: Rump Gland.
—This gland, which is on the rump, and
contains the oil necessary for anointing the
feathers, sometimes becomes hard and inflamed,
and an abscess forms there. In this case the bird
often pierces it itself, or it may be softened by
applying fresh butter without any salt; but it is
better to use an ointment made of white lead,
litharge, wax, and olive oil, which may be had at
any good Chemist’s. The general method is to
pierce or cut the hardened gland, in order to let
out the matter, but if this operation removes the
obstruction it also destroys the gland, and the bird
will die in the next molting, for want of oil to
soften the feathers.

The gland is known to be obstructed when the
feathers which surround it are ruffled, the bird
never ceasing to peck them, and instead of being
yellow it becomes brown. This disease is very
rare among wild birds, for being exposed to
damp, and bathing often, they make more use of
the liquor in the gland, consequently it does not
accumulate sufficiently to become corrupted, sour,
or cancerous. This confirms the necessity of
giving them the means of bathing as often as in-
stinct would induce them, as nothing can be more
favorable to their health.

BIRDS, (Cage) Moultz'ng of.——-Moulting, Or
changing their feathers, is a natural operation
with birds, which cannot be prevented, but which
must be assisted with care and attention. Cold
is the greatest danger to which they are exposed;
in passing through this state therefore, all
draughts of air should be carefully guarded
against. When the cages are open ones, or have
much wire-work they ought to be partly covered
up with a cloth or paper, to keep the birds warm
and the cleaning of the cage need not take place
more than once a week, though they must be

‘carefully supplied with fresh food and water

daily. A little saffron in their water, a little
nourishing food, and the extra warmth occasioned
by the covering to the cage, will soon restore the
birds to a plumage more beautiful than that they
cast off. The covering of the cage should not be
cast off all at once, but gradually; it should then
be cleaned thoroughly, and the birds have their
ordinary food. They should, while moulting,
be put in the sun for an hour or two, if the
weather is fine and warm.

BIRDS (Singing) Foodfor.—Knead together
3 pounds of split peas, ground or beaten, 1%
pounds of fine crumbs of bread, the same quan.
tity of coarse sugar, the raw yolks of 6 e gs, and
6 ounces of fresh butter. Put about '3 of the

168

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

mixture at a time in a frying an over a gentle
fire, stir it until a little browne , but not burned.
When the other 3 parts are done, and all cold,
add to the whole, 6 ounces of maw seed and 6
pounds of bruisedhemp seed, separated from the
usks. Mix together, and it will be found ex-
cellent food for thrushes, robins, larks, linnets,
Canaries, finches and most other singing birds,
preserving them admirably in song and feather.

BIRDS, Parlefiar.—-Take a white loaf which
is well baked and stale, put it into fresh water till
it is quite soaked through; then squeeze out the
water and pour boiled milk over the loaf, adding
about two-thirds the quantity of barley meal,
from which the bran has been carefully sifted, or,
what is still better, wheatmeal. Another method,
however, may be adopted. Grate a carrot very
nicely, soak a small white loaf 'in fresh water,
press the water out of it, put it along with the
carrot into an earthen pan, add handfuls of barley
or Wheaten meal, and mix the whole together
with a pestle. These pastes ought to be made
fresh every morning, for they quickly become
sour, and are consequently injurious to the birds.

BIRDS, Almond Parltfon—Pea meal 2 lbs.,
blanched sweet almonds I 1b.; fresh butter or
lard % 1b.; moist sugar 5 02.; a shred or two of
hay saffron; beat to a smooth paste, and granu-
late it by assing it through a colander. The
addition 0 the yelks of 2 or 3 eggs improves it.
Used to feed larks, nightingales, and other in-
sectivorous birds. It will keep good for 6 months
in a dry place.

BIRDS, German Parts jinn—Take 4 fresh
eggs, boiled very hard, % lb. white peasemeal,
and about a table spoonful of good salad oil——
if the least rancid it will not do. The eggs must
be grated very fine, and mixed with the meal and
olive oil, and the whole then be pressed through
a tin colander, to form it into grains like small
shot, it should next be put into a frying pan, set
over a gentle fire, and gradually stirred with a
broad knife, till it be partially wasted and dried,
the test- of which will be its yellowish brown
color. All insect eatingbirds maybe kept upon
this food throughout the year, except when they
appear drooping and unwell, or at moulting time,
when a few meal worms may be given to them
twice or thrice a day.

BULLFINCHES.—Old birds should be fed
with German Paste, and occasionally rape-seed.
The Germans occasionally give them a little
poppy-seed, and a grain or two of rice, steeped
in Canary wine, when teaching them to pipe, as
a reward for the progress they make. Bird or-

ns, or flageolets are used to teach them.

BLA CKBIRD, T Ina—The blackbird should
be kept in a large cage, for it is not prudent to
allow it to associate with other birds, as it will
attack the smaller kinds. It is fond of frequent
bathing and should be furnished with the means.
The natural food of the blackbird is berries,
worms, insects, shelled snails, cherries, and other
similar fruit; and its artificial food, lean fresh
meat, cut very small, and mixed with bread, or
German paste.

CA TS, Care of.—The cat is subject to several
diseases; but, as a general rule, is seldom se-
riousl ill. The best rule to keep the animal in
good ealth is to have it fed with regularity, kept
clean, and furnished with plenty of pure water.
In respect to the ailments of puss, “prevention
is easier than cure,” as it is in many matters of

 

higher moment. The cat ought not re be over-
fed. 'pr she appears out of sorts, a little brim-
stone in milk will frequently be found useful.

. CANdeIES, Hints in Choosing. -- In bu -
mg canaries, the birds which seem moderate y
shy are generally the best; an inexperienced
person 15 too apt to be attracted by a very quiet
manner; the birds seem so tame that they are
bought quite eagerly, but unhappily they are apt
to die soonafter ; the too great quietness being
caused by illness. A real good bird will make
no end of fuss, pretending to be a vast deal shyer
than it really is, hopping from perch to perch,
twrsting its head about, and having, in fact an
infinity of pretty airs and groans.

Bird dealers, again, always recommend the
birds which sing loudly. and this to many per-
sons is not at all desirable. The lower the tone
the prettier and sweeter many would think the
song. Birds with long, straight and tapering
bodies are the best singers.

CANARIES, To Dirlz'nguislz Sex qfl—The
male has generally deeper and brighter colors,
9. head rather larger and longish, and longer
body, and a more elegant form. There is afeather
under the beak, of the shape of a bean, placed
lower than the rest, and the temples and circle
around the eyes are of a deeper yellow than the
other parts of the body. The throat of the male
vibrates while singing, this never happens with
the hen. If the bird be observed when it is sing-
ing, and if it be a cock you will perceive the
throat heaving with this vibratory pulse-like mo-
tion, a peculiarity which is scarcely perceptible
in the hen.

CANARIES, Care ofI—I. Especial care must
be taken to keep the canary thoroughly clean. For
this purpose t e cage should be strewed every
morning with clean sand, or rather, fine gravel,
for small pebbles are absolute] essential to life
and health in cage birds; fres water must be
given every day, both for drinking and bathing;
the latter being in a shallow vessel ; and, during
the moulting season, a small bit of iron should
be put into the water for drinking. The food of
a canary should consist principally of summer
rape seed, that is, of those small brown rape-seeds
which are obtained from plants sown in the
spring, and which ripen during the 'summer ;
large and black rape-seeds, on the contrary, are
produced by such plants as are sown in autumn,
and reaped in spring. A little chickweed in spring,
lettuce—leaves in summer, and endive in autumn,
with slices of sweet apple in winter, may be
safely given, but bread and sugar ought to be
generally avoided. Occasionally also, a few
poppy or canary-seeds, and a small quantity of
bruised hem -seed may be added, but the last
very sparing y. Cleanliness, simple food, and
fresh but not cold air are essential to the well-
being of a canary. During the winter, the cage
should never be hung in a room without a fire,
but even then, when the air is mild, and the sun
shines bright, the little prisoner will be refreshed
by having the window open. The cage should
never be less than eight inches in diameter, and
a foot high, with perches at different heights.

CANARIES, Care of.——2. Place the cage so
that no draft of air can strike the bird; give.
nothing to healthy birds but canary and rapeseed
mixed, water, cuttle fish bone, and gravel on the
floor of the cage ; also occasionally, a little water
for bathing; the room should not be overheated;

\

HOUSEHOLD PETS.

when moulting (shedding feathers) avoid drafts
of air; give plenty of rape-seed slightly morst-
ened, a little hard-boiled egg, and cracker grated
fine is excellent; by observing these simple di-
rections, birds ma be kept in fine condition for
years. Bad seed ills most of the birds that die;
to which it might have been added, that canary
birds are not onl fond of, but benefited by hav-
ing often a lea of cabbage, piece of apple or
other green food, which serves to keep down the
tendency to fever and prevents constipation.
Birds usually bathe each day as regularly as any
one washes the face, and with apparent benefit
too. When birds are sick and inclined not to
eat well, remove all the food for a day, and then
only give soaked bread, from which most of the
moisture has been squeezed.

CANARIES (YOUNG) How to Tame.—
The best way to tame a young bird is to keep it
constantly beside you when working or writing;
accustom the bird to having the hand put close
to it, taking care never to startle it. Endeavor
to get it to take hem seed (of which they are
very fond) from the ngers. When the cage is
standing near the person who desires to tame the
canary, it is a good plan, when the bird is quiet
and no longer afraid, to open the cage door and
lay a few cracked hemp seeds near it on the
table; the bird will come out and hop about, but
care must be taken that all is secure in the room,
no open windows, no cat or dog present. It is
also a good plan at night, when the bird is asleep,
to put the hand into the cage, awaking it by
bringing a light close to it, and then withdraw
the hand with a gentle exclamation of fright when
the bird peeks at it. He will thus consider him-
self the conqueror, and will cease to fear the in-
vader. When this has been repeated two or
three nights, the bird will be ready to fight the
hand by daylight when out of the cage, and will
take a hemp-seed from the fingers. He will also
learn to shake hands, if the claw be suddenly
touched at night very gently, and the words
“shake hands” repeated in soothing tones. The
greatest gentleness is required, and a cracked
hem seed should be invariably given by the
ban only of the person who is training the bird;
it should not be mixed with the ordinary food,
but used merely as a reward, and he will soon
learn to take it from between the lips of his
trainer.

A bird may be easily taught to simulate death
by placing it on its back in the hand, where it
will remain perfectly quiet until summoned to
rise at its instructor’s voice, when its reward
must be ready for it. It is also recommended by
bird keepers to remove all food from the canary’s
cage after it has gone to roost, and to offer it to
the bird in the morning in the hand. It will
soon lose its fear, and will fly to meet its owner.

It must be remembered that in these pretty
creatures there is a great difference of temper
and disposition, and the aptitude for learning is
not equally great in all; indeed, in some cases it
is extremely difficult, and much patience is re-
quired to make them accomplished. With young
birds there is always a much greater chance of
success, particularly if they have been reared by
the person who tries to tame them.

CA NA RIE S, [men‘s on.—-Parasites are among
the most deadly enemies of canary birds, gold-
finches and other household pets. Many people
have observed a bird in a state of excitement and

 

I59

anxiety, plucking at himself continually, his
feathers standing all wrong. In vain is his food
changed, and in vain is another saucer of clean
water always kept in his cage, and all that kind-
ness can suggest for the little prisoner done, but
still all is of no use: he is no better, because the
cause of his wretchedness has not been found’
out. If the owner of a pet in such difficulties'
will take down the cage and look up to the roof,
there will most likely be seen a mass of stuff
looking much like red rust as anything, and
thence comes the cause of the poor birds uneasi-
ness. The red rust consists of myriads of para-
sites infesting the bird and for which water is no
remedy. By producing a lighted candle, and
holding it under every particle of the top of the
cage till all chance of anything being left alive is
gone, the remedy is complete. The pet will soon
brighten up again after his “house-warming,”
and will, in his cheerful and delightful way,
thank his master or mistress for this important
assistance.

DOGS, Managementafi—All dogs are capable
of education, although it is certain that great dif-
ference in intelligence is known to exist be-
tween individuals even of the same species. There
are stupid dogs and clever dogs, as there are
clever and stupid members of the human family.
Clever or stupid, however, dogs kept in a dwell-
ing-house ought to be taught good manners; to
be silent, and to lie down when so ordered; to
refrain from leaping on the knees of strangers;
and not to sit watching and staring at meals, as
if coveting the food partaken of by their master
and mistress. To make them behave well, they
must be taught when young; and one of the best
modes of doing this is to let them be certain of
being punished if disobedient, and rewarded
when dutiful. A clever dog will soon be able to
comprehend and act upon a look, a sign, or a
word.

DOGS, Feeding—The dog is naturally carni-
vorous, but when domesticated he does not re-
fuse farinaceous food, especially if early accus—
tomed to it. Those who keep dogs ought not to
leave their feeding to the scraps they may chance
to obtain at the breakfast or dinner table; more-
over, irregular supplies are injurious to the ani-
mal’s health. The dog ought to have his regular
meals, and his food should be chiefly flesh of
some kind, boiled and cold; when given raw, it
is act to produce some ferocity of temper, and to
cause him to have an offensive smell. If possible,
the dog should be induced to eat some farinaceous
food along with his meat. Liver is not proper
food for a dog, unless occasionally, as it acts as
an aperient; but any ordinary pieces of meat or
tripe will suit very well. The dog ought to be
fed only once a day if he gets as much as he
requires, and this allowance should be given in
the morning or forenoon; but as he requires to
drink frequently throughout the day, care must
be taken to give him plenty of pure water.

DOGS, To Keep Healtlzy.——To maintain a.
dog in vigorous health he must have abundant
exercise in the open air, and be kept clean.
Washing him keeps him in health, frees him from
irritation of the skin, and destroys fleas. Every
house-dog or lap-dog ought to be washed once a
week with soap and water, and delicate dogs
ought afterwards to be combed and brushed and
dried with a hard cloth. Washing is absolutely
indispensable-emdependently of the consideration

170

of health—where the dog has a thick coat of hair,
as the Scotch terriers have ; he is apt to contract
an offensive smell, the causes of which, for the
animal’s own sake, as well as his owner’s, ought
to be at once removed. When soap is used in
washing, a thorough rinsing must follow, for
if there is the least particle of soap left, it will
prevent their licking themselves,

DOGS, T car/zing- to go Errand:.——This ac-
complishment may often be put to great practical
use, and it is an excellent plan to teach all dogs,
which are large enough to be of any service in
this manner, to carry baskets or parcels when
accompanying their masters. The mode of train-
ing is very simple, consisting of merely placing
the articles in the dog’s mouth, andwhen he lets
go of it give him a slight box on the ear and re-
place the article in his mouth. Whatever is
given him to carry should be of such a form as
to be grasped easily by him without hurting his
mouth or teeth. The weight should at first be
very light and never more than he can easily
carry. Most dogs will take a real pleasure in
carrying articles in this manner, and they seem
to feel the responsibility attached to their duty.
for they will carry their own or their master’s
dinner without attempting to appropriate any
portion of it until the proper time when their
share shall be given them. In teaching dogs to
carry food, however, it is necessary to take a
little special pains to overcome their instinctive
inclination to eat it. A good plan is to place the
articles in acovered basket which they cannot
open, and when the dog has learned to carry an
ordinary parcel give him this. If he attempts to
get at the food, which he readily detects by his
sense of smell, box his ears. By-and-by reward
him with the food, and then try him with a bas-
ket from which he can abstract the contents; if
he tries to do so punish him slightly, never per-
mitting him to steal the food. If a dog ever de-
serves a reward for well doing he certainly does
in this case, for it is too bad to tantalize him
with the-smell of some dainty and then not to let
him finally have something for his good conduct.

To make a dog carry articles from one person
to another it is only necessary for two persons to
take their position at some distance from another.
One gives the dog some article saying “go sir,”
at the same time. As the first says this, let the
other person call or whistle to the dog. Now
let this one give the dog something and let the
other one call him, and so on back and forth

until he will go from one to the other at the '

command, “go sir.”

It is not very difi‘icult to teach a dog to go on
errands. Suppose you wish him to go to market
for you of a morning; take him with you regu-
larly for a few mornings, letting him carry the
basket. In a few days he will understand when
you start where it is you propose to go, and will,
perhaps, run on ahead and arrive there some mi-
nutes before you do. It would be well on all
occasions before starting to give the command,
“Go to market,” which will accustom him to it.

DOGS, Hydrophoéia, Radiant or Canine Mad-
mr: in.—One of the earliest symptoms of rabies
in the dog is restlessness. He is constantly
running round and round before he will lie down;
his countenance becomes anxious ; his eyes
bloodshot; he fancies that he sees objects around
him which have not real existence, and he snaps
at the empty air; his fondness for his master in-

 

.DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

creases, and with it his propensity to lick the
hands and face—a filthy practice at any time, and
one most dangerous ;— the appetite becomes
depraved, his natural food is neglected, and, It
the same time, every sort of filthy trash is greedily
devoured ;.eating his own excrement is an early
symptom, and so sure a one, that the moment a
dog is seen doing so he should be destroyed, or,
at all events, carefully confined. For no cura-
tive treatment will avail, when a dog is seized
with this terrible disease.

DOG, How to tell Ilzt Age qf, (Until 6
.Yearr qf A ge. )—A dog has a very visible mark
in his teeth, as well as a horse, which mark does
not disappear totally until he is very near or full
6 years old. Look to the 4 front teeth, both in
the upper and lower jaw, but particularly to the
teeth in the upper jaw, for in those 4 front teeth
the mark remains the longest. At 12 months
old you will observe every one of the 4 front
teeth, both in the upper and under jaw, jagged
and uneven, nearly in the form of a fleur de lis,
but not quite so pointed at the edges of the jags
as a fleur de lis is. As the dog advances in age
these marks will wear away, gradually decrease
and grow smoother and less jagged every year.
Between 3 and 4 years old these marks will be
full half worn down, and when you observe all
the 4 front teeth, both in the upper and lower
jaw, guite worn smooth and even, and not in the
least jagged, then you may conclude that the dog
is nearly if not full 6 years old. When those
marks are worn quite flat and even, and those
teeth quite level and even, you can no longer
judge the age of a dog.

DOG (PUPP) ), How 10 Chara—Sportsmen
assure us that, in order to make choice of a
puppy from among a number of others, it is bet.
ter to leave the choice to the mother herself. In
carrying them back to their bed, the first one
she takes up will always be the best; if we pre-
tend to set fire to the bed on all sides, then the
one she will try to rescue first.

DOGS, Best Baffin—The best bed which can
be made for a dog consists of dry, newly made
pine shavings, a sackful of which may be had for
a shilling at almost any carpenter’s shop. The
dog is delighted in tumbling about in them until
he has made a bed to suit himself. Clean wood
shavings will clean a dog as well as water, and
fleas will never infest dogs that sleep upon fresh
pine shavings ; the turpentine and resin in new
pine soon drive them away.

DOGS, Egg: Eating—To cure this, blow an
ordinary hen’s egg, expelling the entire contents,
stop up one end of the shell with wax. en
fill it from the other end with strong spirits of
ammonia, or ‘Hartshorn.’ Seal that end and
then put it where the dog can get it. If he
crushes it, he will never be desirous of repeating
the luxury of egg eating. After the dog has had
one ammonical feast, a little of the fluid poured
into the nest, will remind him of the fact, that
he once was burnt, and also will serve to cleanse
the nest from vermin. V

DOGS (White) to Wrath—Make a good
lather of white soap with a little spirit of turpen‘
tine; wash the dog as quickly as possible in this
while it is warm, but not hot, taking care not to
let the soap lather get into its eyes. Have a tub
with clean tepid water in which a little blue has
dissolved, ready; when the coat is clean dip the
dog intothe blue water and rinse out the soap

HOUSEHOLD PETS.

r71

 

Then rub it well in a clean sheet before the fire;
if the hair is long comb it out and brush it as it
dries. The turpentine will kill fleas unless the
dog is mu infested with them.

DOG D STEMPEA’, Remedyfor.—-Distem-
per in dogs is characterized by a running from the
nose and eyes, and a short dry cough, followed
by a wasting of the flesh, and loss of strength
and spirits. At length the brain suffers, and fits,

aralysis of the extremities, or convulsions come
Em A handful of common fine salt thrown
down the throat and the mouth kept closed until
it goes down, is an infallible remedy. One dose
is enough in the early stage of the disease; if
given later, it may have to be repeated.

DOGS, Flea: ova—Suds made from carbolic
soap will rid a dog of fleas. An other remedy
is to rub olive oil into the dog’s coat, so as to
saturate the hair to the surface of the skin; then
to let it remain on for half an hour, and wash it
well out with the best yellow soap and warm
water. A small portion of any sweet oil brushed
into the coat of a woolly dog will effectually pre-
vent its being infested with vermin.

DOGS, Mange in.--Is similar to the itch in
man and require the same treatment. Wash with
soft soap and apply sulphur ointment.

DO S, VVarmr in.———Are a frequent cause of
fits, and when they get into the nostrils, wind-
pipe, &c., generally cause death. For those in
the bowels, Youatt recommends powdered glass
made up into a roll with butter or lard. Cow-
hage (cow-itch, mucuna) is probably quite as
effectual, and is safer. A teaspoonful may be
given in lard, and repeated if necessary. Tur-
pentine should not be given to dogs.

GOLD FISII, How to Brent—The following
is the experience of a well known naturalist. He
says: In the spring I put into one of my tanks,
two feet long, one foot wide, and six inches deep,
with a rustic basket in the centre filled with gravel,
and planted with watercresses and other water
plants, three gold-fish, two females and one male.
Going into the room one day I observed the
water, which had always been clear, very muddy.
Seeing the water in such a disturbed state, I at
once knew that spawningwas going on. I looked
with a microscope and saw a number of little gol-
den balls sticking on the roots of the cresses.
The thought struck me that, if I removed the
ova, I could breed them, as the fish are known
to devour their young. I put a handful of gravel
and some weeds into a glass sugar-basin. I then,
with a pair of tweezers, picked off the roots, with
the ova sticking on them, and put them into the
basin. In eight days I had a shoal of little
fishes.

GOLD FISH: Care qfi—Gold fish may be
kept ten or twelve years in vessels—the average
period of existence—by the following precautions:

I. Allow not more then one fish to a quart
of water. 2. Use the same kind of water,
whether spring or river water, and change it daily
in summer; every other day in winter. 3. Use
deep rather than shallow vessels, with small
pebbles on the bottom—to be kept clean,—and

eep them in the shade and in a cool part of the
room. 4. Use a small net rather than the hand
while changing the water. 5. Feed the fish with
cracker, yolk of egg, lettuce, flies, etc., rather
than with bread, and then only every third or
fourth day, and but a little at a time. 6. Do not
feed them at all from November to the end of

 

February, and but little during the three follow-
ing months.

G UINEA-PI G, Tire. -—This little animal,
although called by the name of “pig,” is in no
way whatever related to the family to which the
wild boar and the domestic hog belong. It is,
on the contrary, comprehended in the order Ro-
dentia, along with mice, rats, squirrels, and the
various kinds of animals remarkable, as the name
of the order implies, for their habits of gnawing.
The guinea-pig is a native of Brazil and Para-
guay, where it is found wild; and there are
various species of the same animal. When do~
mesticated in this country, it very much resem-
bles the rabbit, although it is smaller in size. It
is frequently marked with irregular patches of
black, white, and orange. The ears are round
and almost naked, the feet are short, and there is
no tail. It is a very cleanly animal, and the male
and female spend much 01 their time in licking
and smoothing each other’s fur. It breeds at
two months old, and brings forth from four to
twelve young ones at a time. It is a pretty little
animal, but can hardly be said to make a desirable
pet, as it seems entirely devoid of attachment.
In order to keep the little creature in comfort,
the chief object, besides that of furnishing it with
appropriate food, is to keep it scrupulously clean,
—an object which its own instinctive habits ought
to suggest to its owner.

LINNE TS.—Cock-birds are browner on the
back than the hens, and have some of the large
feathers of the wings white up to the quills.
Canary and hemp-seed, with occasionally a little
groundsel, water-cress,-chickweed, etc., consti-
tute their food.

M OCKIN G BIRDS, Food for. - Mix

thoroughly together corn meal, pea meal, each
one part; moss meal, half a part; add to the mix-
ture enough melted lard not to make it too fat or
greasy, and sweeten with molasses. Now fry
this mixture in a frying-pan for about half an
hour, stirring it all the time, and being very care-
ful not to let it burn. If not fried sufficiently, it
will not keep. When properly made it will keep
in a covered glass jar for several weeks. Mocking,
and other birds of similar nature, will leave all
other food for this, which is rather healthful than
injurious to them. Pea meal is made by drying
split peas in an oven, and then finely grinding
them in a mill. Moss meal is prepared from the
moss seed imported into this country from Ger-
man .
IllyOCKL/VG BIRDS, T a Traps—The best
way to catch them is to have a cage with two or
three separate compartments, in one of which
you have a decoy bird. The cage is to be set
down near a bush, away from other undergrowth,
in a locality resorted to by the birds. Cut three
or four twigs and revolve them in bird lime until
entirely covered, then cut a slit in the butt, and
fasten to the most prominent part of the bush
by this slit, then retire 150 yards. The decoy
will begin to sing, thereby attracting the wild
mocking birds, who will attempt to whip him
away. They will robably light on the prepared
twigs and will be lield fast; their flutterings only
causing their wings to stick likewise. A little
lard rubbed on their feet and wings will remove
the bird lime.

It will be found that the birds improve in
strength and fullness of tone when kept some
years; and it is not so difficult to keep the

172

bird as is generally supposed. Feed regularly,
keep cage clean and dry, do not let victuals get
stale or sour.

Another method is about the first of May to
take a tramp through the woods and along the
hedges until you find a nest, and be sure it is the
right kind. Do not touch the nest, but visit it
every few days, and when the young are hatched
and can 0 en their eyes and mouths take the
nest and hlrds home with you and set them in a
cage. You then prepare some corn meal very
soft and feed them every half hour by putting it
in their mouths; when hungry they will open
their mouths and cr if you approach them, then
is the time to fee them; when they become
strong enough to hop about the cage you may
then put water and the meal in the cage and they
will soon learn to feed themselves. The cage
should be cleaned out at least every other morning
and fresh dry clean sand put on the floor. The
regular feed of the birds should be corn meal and
hard boiled eggs mashed together with a little
water; scalded fresh beef is ver fine for them,
also a few polke berries occasiona ly, all kinds of
fruits, bread that is not “short,” meat not salt;
never give them anything sweet. I nearly lost
a fine bird by allowing ‘him to get some sour
molasses. The best medicine for the mocking
bird is two or three spiders.

Be sure to put a pan of fresh water in the
cage every day, as he is a great washer and in-
variably sings better if you give him plenty of
water and spiders. The bird should never be let
out of the cage, and he then does not know what
liberty is.

PARROT S, Cagerfor.—The first requisite for
all parrots is a strong roomy cage. The “In-
destructible Cage,” made of corrugated wire,
with perches of lignum vitae, is the best, as they
are most destructive birds, and delight in mis-
chief. If it be possible to find a loose wire or a
weak spot in the cage, it is worked upon with
beak and claws till it is quite destroyed. Macaws
and cockatoos are chained to a perch by the leg,
and two little tins, one containing food, the other
water, are fastened to the perch, and a large flat
tin underneath contains gravel, which is indis-

ensable to their health. All parrots must be

ept in a warm room during the winter ; they
are natives of the tropics, and in this climate are
extremely susceptible of cold, and should be care-
fully guarded from draughts, which often produce
asthma, of which disease a large proportion of
parrots in confinement die; at the same time
they require a good deal of fresh air and water,
both to drink and bathe in. A parrot ought to
have a bath, at least once aweek in summer, and
if the bird will not bathe himself, he should have
tepid water poured over him from awatering-pot;
he should then be set in the sun or before a fire
to dry, and great care must be taken that the cage
is perfectly dry. Parrots are subject to gout,
and sometimes loose their toes from this disease,
which is brought on by damp.

PARRO TS, Food/fon—Wild arrots live on
grain, fruit, and nuts of various inds; the food
of the tame bird is much the same,—Indian corn,
boiled and allowed to become cold, and canary
seed. They are very fond of hemp seed; this
last is, however, too heating for general use.
Ripe fruit, and nuts of any kind, they may have
in moderation; a bit of dry mealy potato, a crust
of bread or toast, is also a great {uni-its with

 

‘DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

some; and a little white bread, soaked in fresh
milk with some sugar, should be given once a.
day, just as much as the bird will eat at one time.
If the food is allowed to remain in the age it will
get sour, and it is then most prejudicral; in fact,
parrots are like children, some refer one thing
and some another. But one ru e must be scru-
pulously observed—never give them meat, no
matter how small the quantity, it is always hurt-
ful; and, indeed, butter or grease of any kind is
very objectionable. With ordinary care these
birds live to a great age, and they are so amusing,
and often so affectionate, that it is a sad affair to
lose one by carelessness.

PARROT S, T 0 Teach [row to Speak—The
quickest way is to send the bird, if possible,
where there is another parrot who can speak.
They should be placed near enough to hear, but
not see each other, and the one will soon imi-
tate the other. A good way is to speak to the
bird at night ; just when his cage has been
covered over (which must always be done with
a woollen rug in winter) repeat over several
times in the same tone the sentence you wish him
to learn. He may not appear to notice at first,
but some day, quite unexpectedly, he will repeat
the sentence exactly in the same tone that he
has heard it. He should at once be rewarded
with a bit of sugar, or fruit, any little dainty that
he is fond of. They are very quick at under-
standing that rewards are given for obedience.
We have had a grey parrot for many years ; he is
now fully sixteen years old; his plumage is beau-
tiful and his health most excellent, and he is a
most amusing and clever bird; he speaks ex-
ceedingly plain, and it is quite easy to teach
him a new sentence, or even to make him repeat
words and whistles when desired. He knows
that he will be rewarded if he does what he is
told, and be scolded if he is disobedient. Never
allow a parrot to be startled or teased, or permit
it to be fed indiscriminately by visitors. Keep
the cage extremely clean ; let it be wiped out and
fresh sand given every day. Some birds drink
very little, but they should always be able to get
a drink of fresh water if they wish. It is also a
good plan to let a small quantity of canary seed
be in the seed can. If a bird is left to the care
of a servant during absence, it is possible that
the morning bread and milk may. be forgotten,
and the seed will thus prevent the bird being
starved.

PARROT S, To Prevent Pluekz'ng it: own
Feathers—The morbid condition of the bird may
be induced from one or both of two causes. The
bird may be suffering from an accumulation of
parasites upon its body; the cage may be infested
with them, especially in the corners and crevices
of the wood of the perch. Those insects crawl
upon them and usually infest the head, neck,’
and under the wings, and the poor bird may be
simply trying its best to get rid of them; or the
blood of the bird may be in a highly inflammatory
condition, probably induced by excess of kind-
ness, in pampering its appetite by feeding upon
dainty morsels but ill suited to birds, by which
at length they will almost refuse their natural
food. If such is the case, gradually leave of
giving the bird those tidbits compellingit to feed
upon those seeds only suited to its condltion, and
it will soon recover. If it is caused by insects
the cage must be well cleaned; place a drop of
turpentine in each corner of the cage, and upon

H0 USEHOZD PESTS.

the perch, this will soon destroy them; and rub

a little train oil upon the bare part of the bird’s

body, or dust the body well with some insect

powder (pyrethrum rosea).

ROBIIV, How lo T awe and Feed—If we wish
to tame a robin, one of the most pleasant of home
pets, it must be done very gradually, making
great friends with a young bird, and feeding it,
when it will often come contentedly to roost in-
doors, in the colder weather, and will cheerfully
introduce its small brown brood, to hop about
before us on the gravel walk, later in the season.
And one tame robin will then bring in another,
when they are at peace, which is very rare.
young bird brought up from a nest is a most
agreeable pet. He ought in that case to possess
a cage, but to be allowed to go in and out at will.
When confined, water should be kept in some
convenient locality so that he can take his bath
when ever he wishes it. Old birds should never
be caught for the purpose of tameing or con-
fineing.

Robins eat hard-boiled eggs, bread crumbs,
.German paste, hemp and canary seed, and must
have abundant water.

RABBIT, Habit: of Men—The rabbit litters
four or five times a year, bringing forth from five
to eight young ones at a time, and beginning to
breed at the age of six months. The animal de-
lights in a sandy soil, with a superficial layer of
fine vegetable mould, clothed with thyme, fine
grass, and other herbage. In such situations it
can easily make its burrows, and enjoy abundant
food. It is remarkable that while the young of
the bare are born covered with fur, and possessed
of sight so as to be able to shift for themselves,

oung rabbits are born blind, naked, and help-
ess; they cannot see for about twelve days after
birth, nor leave the burrow for more than a
month.

RABBITS, Bert K'z'mz'r (If—Stout, short-
legged rabbits are better breeders than others,
aswell as more healthy. The large hare-colored
variety is much esteemed, but the white, or white
mottled with yellow or black, is said to be the
most delicate for the table. The grey is said to
approach nearest to the flavor of the wild rabbit.
Rabbit fanciers have different opinions as to the
colors of the animals. Grey, as being the com-
monest, is held in least estimation; the black
occupies the next place ; the fawn, the white, and

 

173

gm hold the third place; the ure albino with
pin eyes is considered better t an any of these ;
various admixtures of brown, grey, or black
mixed with white, take the highest rank, and a
uniform mouse color is greatly admired by a few
as superior to any other.

RABBITS, T a Ram—It is of great impor-
tance that the rabbitry be properly adapted to
the purpose intended. The rabbit in its natural
state prefers a dry and airy situation, and the
rabbit-house or hutch ought, on that account, to
be kept always dry, clean and well aired. The
hutch may be most suitably placed against the
south wall of ahouse, so as to obtain the advan-
tage of the sunlight. It should be surrounded
by a wire fence, and, in the interior of the enclo-
sure, boxes ought to be fixed as breeding places,
separated by partitions from other boxes adapted.
for the young rabbits, which partitions are fur~
nished with doors capable of being closed so as
to separate the young ones from the parents
when required. _

RABBITS, Ta Feed—It ought to be kept in
mind that all the various vegetables and roots
used at table may be given to them, and that per-
haps celery, parsley, and the tops as well as the
roots of carrots are preferred by the animals;
lettuces, stumps of cabbage and cauliflowers,
turnips, and parsnips, are all useful. In spring,
tares are excellent, and the dandelion, the milk
thistle, and sow thistle, are all much relished by
them.

SQUIRRELS’, How to Managua—In a do-
mestic state these little animals are fed with hazel
nuts, orindeed any kind of nuts ; and occasionally
bread and milk. They should be kept very
clean.

T [IR USHES.—A cock may be distinguished
from a hen by a darker back and the more glossy
appearance of the feathers. The belly also is'
white. Their natural food is insects, worms, and
snails. In a domesticated state they will eat raw
meat, but snails and worms should be procured
for them. Young birds are hatched about the
middle of April, and should be kept very warm.
They should be fed with raw meat, cut small, or
bread mixed in milk with hemp-seed well bruised;
when they can feed themselves give them lean
meat cut small, and mixed with bread or German
paste, plenty of clean water, and keep them in a
warm dry, and sunny situation.

HOUSEHOLD PESTS.

ANTS, To Dextroy and Banish—I. Perfect
cleanliness.—2. Pulverised borax sprinkled in pla-
ces they frequent.—-3.A few leaves of green worm-
wood, scattered among their haunts.—4. The
use of camphor.—5. A sponge can be sprinkled
with sugar and laid upon shelves when ants are
numerous; the next morning plunge quickly into
boiling water, and most of the intruders will be
destroyed—6. Carbolic acid wiped around the
edges of the shelves and wherever they seem to
come from.

BED-BUGS, T o Exterminate.—I. Perfect

cleanliness. No bed-bugs or other vermin wilt
infest a house, the mistress of which, is of or‘
derly and cleanly habits, and fine tastes.———2. Two
ounces of red arsenic, a )4 of a pound of white
soap, % an ounce of camphor dissolved in a tea-
spoonful of spirits rectified, made into a paste of
the consistency of cream. Place this mixture in
the openin s and cracks of the bedstead—3.
Where bed- ugs are present the best, quickest
and handiest exterminator is kerosene or crude
petroleum oil, drenching all parts of the article of
furniture thoroughly and effectively.

 

I74» DICTIONARY OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

CA TERPILLARS, T a Destroy—Boil to-
gether a quantity of rue, wormwood, and any
cheap tobacco (e ual parts), in common water.
The li uid should be very strong. Sprinkle it
on the eaves and young branches every morning
and evening during the time the fruit is ripen-
m .

CR1 CK E TS, To Destroys-A single cricket in
the kitchen grate will disturb a household. There
is a superstition which prevents uneducated per-
sons from attempting the destruction of the insect.
It flaps its wings, producing its well-known
sound, chiefly at night. A little ginger cordial
being placed in a dish before the fire will attract
it, and on partaking of the liquor it will die. The
best mode of destroying the insect in its nest is
to put snufl‘ into the chinks of the grate.

COCKROA CHES AND BEETLES, To
Del-Ira .—r. Strew the roots of black hellebore,
at nig t, in the places infested by these vermin,
and they will ‘be found in the morning dead, or
dying. Black hellebore grows in marshy grounds,
and may be had at the herb shops.—2. Put about
a quart of water sweetened wrth molasses in a

. tin wash basin or smooth glazed china bowls.

Set it at evening in a place frequented by the
bugs. Around the basin put an old piece of car-
pet that the bugs can have easy access to the
to . They will go down in the water, and stay
til you come—3. Take pulverized borax 4 parts,
flour I part, mix intimately and distribute the
mixture in cupboards which are fre uented by
the roaches, or blow it, by means oga bellows,
into the holes or cracks that are infested by them.
—4. By scattering a handful of fresh cucumber
parings about the house—5. Take carbonic acid
and powdered eamphor in equal parts; put them
in a bottle; they will become fluid. With a
painter’s brush of the size called a sash-tool, put
the mixture on the cracks or places where the
roaches hide; they will come out at once. Then
kill.—6. Mix up a quantity of fresh burned plas'
ter of paris (gypsum, such as is used for making
molds and ornaments), with wheat flour and a
little sugar, and distribute on shallow plates and
box boards, and place in the corners of the kitchen
and pantry, where they frequent. In the dark-
ness they will feast themselves on it. Whether
it interferes with their digestion or not, is difficult
to ascertain, but after three or four nights renew-
al of the preparation, no cockroaches will be
found on the premises.

FLEAS, To get Rid ofl—Much of the largest
number of fleas are brought into our family cir-
cles by pet dogs and cats. The oil of pennyroyal
will drive these insects off; but a cheaper method,
where the herb flourishes. is to throw your cats
and dogs into a decoction of it once a week.
When the herb cannot be got, .the oil can be pro-
cured. In this case, saturate strings with it and
tie them round the necks of dogs and cats.
These applications should be repeated every
twelve or fifteen days. Mint, freshly cut, and
hung round a bedstead, or on the furniture, will
prevent annoyance from bed insects; a few drops
of essential oil of lavender will be more effica-
crous.

FL Y, Nature and Haéit: of.—But of what use
are flies? is the inquiry often made. They are
scavengers, and delight not only in sweet things
and fresh blood, but also in things unclean, espe-
cially in decomposing animal substances. With
their proboscis, sucking up the juices which by

 

evaporation would contaminate the air, very use.
ful indeed, in the houses of slovenly house.-
keepers. The blue-bottle, or blow fly deposits
its eggs on animal substances, which are recog.
nized as fly blows. In a warm temperature they
hatch in three or four hours after they are laid,
and then are called larvae or maggots. Linnaeus
asserts that the maggots from three flies will con-
sume a dead horse as quickly as a lion. So vo-
racious are they that they increase in weight
about 200 times in 24 hours. The flesh fly. a
little longer than the blow fly, dro 5 living mag-
gots on dead flesh, the maggots eing hatched
within the fly. The cheese. fly is very small; of
a shining black color, with transparent wings and
yellow hind legs. It deposits about 200 or 250
eggs into the cracks in cheese, which are deve-
loped into skippers. The maggots of some
species of flies spin cocoons; with others, the
skin simply hardens and incases the pupa, or
Chrysalis. At length the fully developed fly makes
its escape by forcing off with its head the Chry-
salis case. The difl'erent-sized flies, we notice,
are different varieties, and not young and old, as
some suppose ; for flies never grow to_ any very
perceptible extent. A large proportion of the
swarms of flies generated during the warm
weather of summer are destroyed by the frosts
of winter. Only a few that are so fortunate as to
find shelter and warm places escape; and in simi—
lar situations, some of them pass the winter in
the Chrysalis state, and only emerge when warm
weather returns. The house fly is a domestic
insect, and is said never to be found except in the
vicinity of man’s present or recent habitations.

FLIE S, (Home) To Destroys-House flies are
present just in proportion to the dirt and unclean-
liness there is in a house. The cleaner the house
and surrounding, the fewer flies there will be.—
I. They may be effectually destroyed by putting
half a spoonful of black pepper in powder on a.
teaspoonful of brown sugar, and one teaspoonful
of cream; mix them well together and place them
in a room where the flies are troublesome, and
they will soon disappear.—2. The butchers of
Geneva have, from time immemorial, prevented
flies from approaching the meat which they ex-
pose for sale, by the use of laurel oil. This oil,
the smell of which, although a little strong, is
not very offensive, drives away flies; and they
dare not come near the walls or the wainscots
which have been rubbed with it.—3. Flies are
kept out of stables, (a place they propagate in
great numbers) by using sawdust which is satu-
rated with carbolic acid diluted—one part of acid
to a hundred parts of water—the sawdust scat-
tered about in stables kee s all flies away. A
similar application of the acrd ought to keep them
from kitchens.

FL Y PAPER (A d/zerz'w).—Melt resin in any
vessel over the fire, and while soft add to it
enough sweet oil, lard or 1am .oil, to make _1t
when cold of the consistency 0 molasses. Thls
spread upon writing paper with a brush Will not
dry in a long time and 15 so sticky_as to hold fast
the legs of any insect attracted to 1t, or accrdent-
ally coming in contact. It may be placed about
the house, the pantry or elsewhere, and Will soon
attract and hold fast ants and other vermin. It
is also used on table legs, the edges of shelves
and other places to prevent the ascent of ants.
Strips of this paper fastened closely about the

.trunks of trees, plants, etc., the varnish side out,

HOUSEHOLD PESTS,

prevents the ascent of insects. It possesses the
cat advantage over the ordinary fly papers in
t at it is not oisonous. .

MICE, a drive away.—-Gather any kmd of
mint and scatter it about your shelves, and they
will forsake the premises. See also “Rats”.

MOSQUITOES, To keep out of a Room.—
1. Oil of pennyroyal, scattered about in small
quantities—2. Take of gum camphor a piece
about one third the size of an egg, andevaporate
itby placing it in a tin vessel, and holding it over
a lamp or candle, taking care that it does not
ignite. The smoke will soon fill the room, and
expel the mosquitoes.-—- 3. Jagor, a celebrated
German traveller, who spent a number of years
in the jungles of the Malayan Archipelago, recom-
mended, the roots of pyrethrum roseum. In a
pa er recently published by Dr. Birdwood, on
olibanum, the author say that in Bombay nothing
so quickly clears one’s room of mosquitoes as the
burning of a little olibanum or myrrh in it.—
4. Carbonic acid has recently been successfully
used for the extermination of mosquitoes and
flies. A small piece of cloth, saturated with the
acid, was hung in the room, and in two hours
the flies had entirely disappeared. In the evening
the acid was tried in the kitchen where the mos-
quitoes were very troublesome, with like success.

11! OSQ U] T 015 S, To prev/mt Biting. ——-Dilute
a. little of the oil of thyme with sweet oil, and dip
pieces of paper in it. Hang in your room, or
rub a little on the hands and face when going to
bed.—2. It is said that petroleum is a good mus-

uito bar, if used in this way: A little coal oil is
dropped on some raw cotton, the excess of it
squeezed out, and the cotton then rubbed over
face and hands. It is said that the little pests
will not come near it. To us the remedy seems
nearly as bad as the disease; to those who do not
mind the smell of kerosene it may by useful.

M OSQ UI TOE B] T E S, Solution firm—Apply
at once a few drops of aqua ammonia, or an in-
fusion of tobacco, either of which will allay the
itching almost instantaneously. Carbolic acid
has also been tried, and with good success, but
it should be very much diluted, to prevent pro~
ducing a blister.

M0 THS, To pres-em: Clotfiz'ng and Furrfrom.
--l. Procure shavings of cedar-wood, and enclose
in muslin bags, which should be distributed freely
among the clothes.—2.Procure shavings of cam-
phor-wood, and enclose in bags.—-3. Sprinkle
pimento (allspice) berries among the clothes.—
4. Sprinkle the clothes with the seeds of the musk
plant.-5. An ounce of gum camphor and one of
the powdered shell of red pepper are macerated
in 8 ounces of strong alcohol for several days,
then strained. With this tincture the furs or
cloths are sprinkled over, and rolled up in sheets.
—6. Carefully shake and brush woollens early in
the spring, so as to be certain that no eggs are
in them: then sew them up in cotton or linen
wrappers, putting a piece of cam hor gum, tied
up in a bit of muslin, into each undle, or into
the chests and closets where the articles are to
lie. No moth will approach while the smell of
the camphor continues. When the gum is eva-
porated, it must be renewed. Enclose them in a
moth-proof box with camphor no matter whether
made of white paper or white pine, before any
eggs are laid on them by early spring moths.
The notion of having a trunk made of some par-
ticular kind of wood for this purpose, is non-

 

17":

sense. Furs or woollens, put away in spring
time, before moth e gs are laid, into boxes,
trunks, drawers, or osets even, where moths
cannot enter, will be safe from the ravages of
mothworms, provided none were in them that
were laid late in the autumn, for they are not of
spontaneous production.

M 07‘ HS 1N CARI’E TS, To lfi'lL—Wring
a coarse crash towel out of clear water, spread it .
smoothly on the carpet, iron it dry with a good
hot iron, repeatingt e operation on all parts of
the carpet suspected of being infested wrth moths.
N 0 need to press hard, and neither the pile nor
color of the carpet will be injured, and the moths
will be destroyed by the heat and steam.

RA TS, Met/m1: flrDertroyz'1zg.—I. Mix some
fine plaster of Paris with an equal quantity of
flour; put the mixture in the place infested by
the vermin, and a vessel full of water beside it.
The rats will devour the mixture, and then drink;
whereupon the plaster, brought into contact with
the water, will ecome solid, and like a stone in
their stomachs, which will cause their death.
This method is evidently hi hly preferable to the
use of arsenic, which is always attended with
danger.—2. Flour, 6 pounds; sugar, 1 pound;
sulphur, 4 pounds ; phosphorus, 4 pounds.—
3. When a house is infested by rats which refuse
to nibble at toasted cheese, and the usual baits,
a few drops of the highly scented oil of rhodium,
poured on the bottom of a cage top, will always
attract before morning. Where a trap baited
with all manner of edibles had failed to attract a
single rat, the oil of Rhodium caused it to be
completely crowded night after night.—4. Mix
powdered nux vomica with oatmeal, and lay it in
their haunts, observing proper precaution to pre-
vent accidents.—5. (lerp/zorow paste.) Take of
phosphorus, 8 parts, li uify it in 180 parts of
luke-warm water, our t e whole into a mortar,
and add immediate y 180 arts of rye meal; when
cold, mix in 180 arts of utter melted, and 125
parts of sugar. lif the phosphorus is in a finely-
divided state, the ingredients may be all mixed
at once, without melting them. This mixture
will retain its efficacy for many years, for the
phosphorus is preserved by the butter and only
becomes oxydized on the surface. Rats and mice
eat this mixture with avidity, after which they
swell out and soon die.—6. Cover the floor near
their holes, with a thin layer of moist caustic
potash. When the rats walk on this it makes
their feet sore. These they lick with their tongues,
which makes their mouths sore, and the result
is that they not only shun this locality, but ap-
pear to tell all the neighboring rats about it, and
eventually the house is entirely abandoned by
them, notwithstanding that the neighborhood
may be teeming with them.-—7. Corks, cut as thin
as wafers, roasted or stewed in grease, and placed
in their tracks; or dried sponge in small pieces,
fried or dipped in honey, with a little oil of rho-
dium, or bird-lime, laid in their haunts, willstick
to their fur and cause their departure. If a live
rat be caught, and well rubbed or brushed over
with tar, and train-oil, and afterward put to es-
cage in the holes of others, they will disappear.
-— . Cover a common barrel with stiff, stout
papers, tying the edge around the barrel ; place.
a board so that the rats may have an easy access
to the top; sprinkle cheese parings or other
“feed” for the rats on the pa er for several days,
until they begin to believe ey have a right to

I76 DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

their daily rations from this source. Then place
at the bottom of the barrel a piece of rock about
six or seven inches high, filling with water until i
only enough of it projects above the water for
one rat to lodge upon. Now re lace the paper,
first cutting a cross in the midd e, and the first
rat that comes on the barrel top goes through into
the water and climbs on the rock. The paper
comes back to place, and the second rat follows
the first. Then begins a fight for the possession
of the dry place on the stone, the noise of which
attracts the rest, who share the same fate.—
9. F 111 a deep smooth vessel of considerable capa-
0

city, to within 6 inches of the top with water,
cover the surface with bran, and set the
vessel in a place most frequented by these pests.
In attempting to get at the bran, they will fall in '
and be drowned. Several dozen have been taken
by this simple method at a time—Io. The smell
of a goat is obnoxious to the nostrils of rats;
the two wont be friends and companions on'any
account whatever, and the introduction of goats to
one’s barn or premises will cause an immediate
stampede of all the rats.—Il. The possession of
a ferret is at once the safest and deadliest enemy
of.the rat.

HUNTING, TRAPPING AND TANNING.

BEAVER SKINS, To Dram—You must

‘ rip the skin the same as you would a sheep.

Stretch it in all ways as much as possible; then
it is to be dressed with equal parts of rock salt
and alum dissolved in water and made about as
thick as cream by stirring in coarse flour. This
should be spread on nearly half an inch thick to
be scraped off when dry and repeated if one time
is not enough. This same process of dressing
applies likewise to otter skins.

DIRD LIME.——I. The middle bark of the
holly, any quantity; boil it for seven or eight
hours in water, or until it is soft and tender, then
drain the water off, and place it in pits under

ound, surrounded with stones ; let it remain to
erment, and water it if required until it passes
[into a mucilaginous state. Then pound it well
and wash it in several waters, next leave it for
four or five days to ferment and urify itself.—
2. Linseed oil boiled and burned own to a thick
varnish answers even better than the above. In
preparing it the oil is put intoaniron kettle and
set upon a fire, when warm 1t 15 lighted also and
allowed to burn until it is of the destined thick-
ness. The iron pot should not be over one-third
full of oil, and should have a lid to fit pretty
closely by which the oil can be quenched at will.
From time to time this must be done to ascertain
the condition of the oil. It takes from nine to

. ten hours to boil it down, and when done it

should be put away in a vessel as nearly air-tight
as ossible, otherwise it will continue to grow
thicker and thicker until it becomes unusable. It
should be of the consistency of thick syrup.

BIRD LIME, How to Use. — There are
various methods of using it. It can be either em-
ployed on sticks made for the purpose, by which
means there is not so much loss of bird lime, or
plastered on spots to which the birds are accus-
tomed to come. If used in the former way, holes
must be bored into the tree in which to fix the
limed sticks. Birds taken with lime should be
relieved as soon as caught, or they will flutter
themselves to death. Alcohol will wash off the
lime. But take care in applying it; small birds
can be killed with the smell of alcohol. If their
heads are not limed, cover that part of them with
a silk handkerchief and use a sponge to wash oft
the lime. .

v

 

BIRD CA TCHING, English Secretr on-..
“Jingling for robins” is a simple art, but it is
founded upon close observation of nature. The
jinglcr provides himself with a tame robin caged;
a piece of timber about a foot square, to which
is attached a net, which flies over it at the proper
moment by means of a spring; and two penny
pieces. He selects a rural spot, deposits the
cage on the board at the foot of a tree, retreats
to a little distance, and then balancing the
pennies, one on each forefinger, chinks them
together. Now, if there is such a thing as a
cock—robin in the vicinity, he immediately ex-
poses himself. Birds, like men, have their
weaknesses, and jealousy and inquisitiveness
are the especial weaknesses of cock-robins.
“Chink, Chink,” is the call note of the male
bird to his mate; and an unwonted “chink”
affects 'him to that degree, that he is almost
thrown off his perch. His ever bright, round
eyes, grow rounder and brighter, with all the
keenness of curiosity and the greenness of green
eyed jealousy. “Chink, Chink,” go the pence.
The deluded bird sets his head awry; and he
says in his heart, “What does this mean, I
should like to know.” “ Chink, Chink! Chink,
Chink!” he can stand it no longer. His quick
vision has detected the bird in the cage, and he
sweeps down to demand an explanation of the
stranger’s intentions, and may be to require
immediate satisfaction. But, alas! no sooner
does the victim of his own passions alight on
the board, than the spring that hitherto withheld
the net is released, and encloses both the caged
bird and the-wild one.

“Trolling for larks” at night. Selecting a
meadow which larks are known to frequent, the
snarers provide themselves with a long net. This
is loaded all down one side with stones or leaden
weights, to keep it close to the ground. Stretch-
ing the net out to its fullest extent, two men take
a corner of the side that is not weighted, and
slowly drag the field, until the fluttering and
screaming of the poor little prisoners tell them
they have had a good haul. All in the dark the
men go on their knees, and thrusting their hands
through the meshes, make their captures, which
they slip into store cages. These are long
wooden cages, with a round hole cut in the top.

HUNTING, TRAPPINé AND TANNING. m

 

to which is fastened the leg of a stocking, which
hangs loosely inside, thus making it an easy
affair to drop the larks, and an impossible one
for them to get out again. It generally happens
that as many larks are taken dead as alive by
this system. Indeed it is almost impossible to
take them at all, except with the assistance of
two horses. This is explained by the fact that
the sense of hearing is very acute in the lark—
the slightest noise, if it be of an unusual char-
acter, alarming them. Now larks are used to
the tramping of cattle, but not to the footsteps
of men; sometimes, therefore, the snarers ta e

each one of the dragging ropes in their hand,‘

and lead a horse by the bridle with the other;
the birds are undisturbed by the tramping of the
four footed creature, and the bipeds, keeping
step with the horses, are not detected.

The metropolitan bird catcher is not content
with larks—he must have nightingales also; but
none but the most enthusiastic bird catchers are
addicted to this branch of the business, which is
called “lying out.” For in the first place, it is
almost without excitement; and in the next,
although the birds, when caught in prime sing-
ing condition, fetch a high price, the difficulty in
catching them is so great as to make the trade
unprofitable. This is how it is practiced. A
trap exactly similar to the robin trap is used,
only instead of a tame bird in a cage, a hook is
driven in the center of the board and on the
hook is impaled a lively worm. The first thing
is to discover a bush fre uented by a night-
ingale. You must watch im into the bush,
allow him to pass the night there, and see him
well off in the morning before you set your trap.
Then you dig the ground up within a few yards
of the bush and bury the trap so that only the
writhing worm in the middle of the net attached
is visible; the net being as much the color of
fresh earth as possible. Then you must retire
and watch for the chance of the bird spying out
the worm when he hops down to look for food
in the morning. If the worm happens to be still
alive, and its wriggling attracts the attention of
the nightingale, then you have a chance of catch-
in him; i not, you must wait until this lucky
co lusion of circumstances does occur.

“ Pegging for chafiinches" is by far the most
curious and interesting of all the branches of the
bird-catching art. Before you think of going
peggmg, you must get a thorou h ood e 'n
chafiinch. These birds are trainedZ to thegbgiisig-
ness. As soon as the new year’s bird gives sign
of coming into song (which you will know by
the beak turning blue), you must put the cage in
a stout black bag, and hang him up in his usual
place. He will perhaps sulk a little at first; if
so, he will require a little encouragement. It is
astonishing what odd noises will bring him out—
the rasping of a tobacco pipe on the back of a
knife, the frying of beef steaks, or scraping a
bow on a fiddle. In a little time he will ipe
away as well in the black bag as he woul out
of In. Then, by degrees you must use him to
bemg handled. Stand his cage on the table at
your elbow, carry him about the house, or in the
garden, and if he will stand all this, and sing as
he goes, you may venture a pegging trip with

1m.

Besides the decoy bird, you will require a
shifted chaffinch—or “stall”—looking as much
likehfe as possible. Then you must have half a

 

dozen pegs. These are made of whalebone, and
must be eight inches long, and about as thick as
an ordinary meat-skewer, fixed with the pomted
half of a stout needle in one end.

Then you want some bird lime, and good bird
lime it must be, or all your other preparations
are of no avail. It should be so plastic that a

iece the size of a small pea may be drawn out
in a thread half a yard long.

A bright, warm May morning is the best time;
and, supposing you to have everything in perfect
order—the pegs, the stall, the lime in a little tin
box, and your decoy in his cage, tied in a hand-
kerchief of the most unobtrusive color—you
start off. When you get among the trees, you
will presently hear perhaps one, perhaps two,
chafiinches piping away over your head. Now
to business. Mark the tree that contains the
stontest singer, take out your pegs and lime,
fasten the stufi‘ed bird securely to one of the pegs,
and then smear another peg all over with bird
lime. Stick the perch on which is standing the
stuffed bird firmly into a tree adjoining the one
containing the wild songster; and, about six
inches above the “ stall,” drive the limed peg.
Place the decoy (still in the handkerchief) at the
foot of the tree. If he is a good bird, the sing-
ing of the wild chafl‘inch will stimulate to the
utmost his exertions to drown the voice of the
other; if he is a coward, the wild fellow is the
conqueror, and the trained decoy will whine and
chirrup pitifully. However, supposing him to
be “ a good brazen bird,” the wild chaffinch will
gradually work himself into a rage, and flutter-
ing here and there—screaming out his notes in
defiance—to find the intruder. Presently his eye
catches the stuffed bird on the peg; and has not
the least doubt but that he has discovered the
delinquent; with an angry cry, down he swoo
sheer on to the sSutfed bird’s back; the stic y
peg just above catc ies his inions, and either he
rangs there, or he brings t e peg down with him,
and runs screaming along the ground till you
overtake him. .

BIRDS, T o Pr::tr71e.-—Birds may be pre-
served in a fresh state for some time by remov--
ing the intestines, wiping the inside out quite dry-
with a towel, and then flouring them. A piece
of blotting paper, on which one or two drops 01
creosote have been placed, is now to be ut iii--
side them, and a similarly prepared piece of.

aper tied round them. They should then be
iiung up in a cool dry place, and will be found to
keep much longer than without undergoing this-
process.

Bl/r’DS, To Skin and Stufli—A great as-
sistance in skinning animals is to suspend the
body by a book, so that both hands are at liberty.
For small kinds a common fishhook will answer,
with the barb broken off, and a cord attached a
foot or two in length. This may be inserted
among the bones near the tail after the skin has
been partly detached.

Other im lements required are the following:
I. A sharp nife, of almost any shape, but a sur-
geon’s scalpel without a jointed handle is the best
or' small kinds, and the common butcher-knife,
which is of similar shape, for larger ones. 2. A
strong, sharp pointed scissors, and for large skins,
a shears is often useful. 3. Triangular glovers’
needles, for sewing up skins; two or three sizes.
4. A pair of spring forceps, such as are usednllaxy

surgeons, though not essential, are very use .
12

:73

z. A tape measure, three to six feet long. 6. A
no saw, or coarse flat file, to notch small bones
before breaking them, so as to break them evenly.
Some use sharp-edged ni pers for this purpose.
Large bones may be broken roughly, and the
ends smoothed off. When a bird is shot, all large
holes must be plugged with cotton or paper, and
this also inserted in the mouth and throat, so as
to prevent the flow of blood or other fluids.
Blood on the feathers may be absorbed by sprinkl-
ing with plaster of Paris, ashes, dust, or sand,
shaking off all that does not stick; then make a
cone of paper, large enough to put the bird in,
head down, and twist up the other end over it,
taking care not to injure the tail feathers. This
will secure smoothness of the feathers when the
body stiffens. In cool weather it is best to

ostpone skinning for twelve to twenty-four hours,
in order to allow the blood to coagulate, so that
it will not flow so freely, and the fat hardening,
also gives less trouble. Some use a ring of
paper pinned round the body to obtain its exact
girth, so that it can be stuffed out to the same
dimensions afterward.

Before skinning, put fresh plugs in the mouth,
nostrils, and large shot-holes. Take the measure-
ments and notes required; then make an incision
from the breast-bone down to the tail, not so
deep as to open the intestinal cavity, and care-
fully separate the skin on each side, plugging or
sewing up any holes accidentally cut too deep. If
blood or fluid run too freely, absorb them by
some dry ashes, plaster, or paper, and use these
so as to protect the feathers; if necessary, keeping
the fingers well powdered. Separating the skin
from one side, the leg is soon reached; this must
be drawn out by the knee-joint as far as it can
be, and the tendons cut where they go toward
the foot. Break off the bone within the skin,
and, having freed that leg, treat the other in the
same way. It is most convenient in small birds
to break these bones, and also those of the upper
wing-joint,betore beginning to skin, thus having
the limbs less in the way.

After the legs are freed, cut down to the tail,
and separate the body, leaving some of the
vertebra attached to support the feathers. Re-
move the oil-glands above the tail carefully from
the skin, then insert the hook in the body, and
ham it up, head downward. The skin is then
easiy peeled ofl‘ until the wings are reached,
when it must be drawn to one side until the
broken end of the shoulder-bones are reached,
which may be slipped through the muscles, and
pulled out as far as ossible. The muscles must
then be cut off, an this wing being freed, the
same process is used for the other.

The skin then slips off easily as far as the head,
and, if large, must be supported, so that its
weight may not stretch the neck. In drawing it
over the head, be careful not to tear it, and use
the finger-nails more than the knife. The ear
membranes are easily drawn out with it, and on
reaching the eyes, the attachment of the lids
must be carefull separated from the eye-ball, so
as to injure neit er the lids nor the eye-ball, as
the fluids escaping give trouble. Then cut off the
back part of the skull, remove the brains and the
eyes, clear away all remains of muscle, etc.,
from the skull, and sprinkle or smear the skin
'with arsenic. Fill the eye-sockets and other
cavities around the head with cotton or other
surfing, and draw the skin back to its original

 

DICTIONAR Y 01" 2‘ VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

shape. If the neck has dried during the opera-
tion, it will need moistening before retraction.

The second joints of the wings now require
cleaning from the muscles, etc. This may be
done in small birds by carefully drawing the skin
down over the bones, loosening it with the fin-
ger-nails. Large birds, however, need an incision
under the wing, reaching the whole length of the
joint, which ma be sewed up afterward by a few
stitches. Arsenic ointment must be applied freely
to all these parts. The wing-bones must w be
connected by a string passed through th space
between the bones, or a thread sewed through
the ligaments, so that it can not slip. Do not
draw the wings too close together, but leave as
nearly the natural distance between them as is
practicable. Cotton or tow may be now wound
round the broken ends of the wing and leg bones,
a roll of it inserted in the neck, and enough put
in the body to fill it out to its natural shape.

When the legs are tied together, no stitches
are generally necessary to sew up the cut. If
there are large holes in the skin, they should be
sewed up from the inside before putting in the
stuffing. In large birds it is well to sew on wide
strips of rag along the inner edges of the cut
made in the skin to protect the feathers during
the operation of skinning, removing the rags
afterward. Very badly soiled skin can, how-
ever, be cleaned by the taxidermist; and, pro-
vided they have not lost any feathers, are still
useful. The bill should generally be tied shut
by a string passed through the nostrils, and the
label may be put there or on the legs. Very
long necks are best stuffed by rolling up a long
cylinder of paper, and assing it down the throat
or from the inside. Tlie neck may then be bent
down along the side of the body, and the legs
bent up so as to make as compact a specimen as
possible. Having smoothed down the feathers,
the bird must now be pushed carefully inside a
cylinder of stifl‘ paper of the proper size, and laid
on its back to dry. Hanging it up by the bill or
feet stretches it too much. If carefully dried, it
retains a good shape, and may be freely handled
afterwards.

Some birds, especially ducks and woodpeckers,
have the neck so slender that the head can not
be drawn through it by skinning in the usual
manner. In these an incision must be made on
the most injured side, from the car down far
enough to allow the head to be cleaned through
it. The body may then be skinned as usual, or
the incision may be continued down the neck to
the bare space under the wing, and the skin
taken off without cutting it elsewhere. To sew
this up requires care in order to adjust the
feathers nicely, and the stitches must be taken
from within outward. Some persons skin all
birds in this manner; but the feather are more
apt to fall out of those birds that have them loosely
attached.

There is much difference in the ease with which
a bird may be skinned, according to the relative
toughness of skin, and adhesion of feathers. A
humming-bird is more easily skinned than a

igeon, and those of the size of a robin take much
ess time than an eagle. For practice, the best
are blackbirds and jays, those not too fat being
preferable.

BIRDS, To Mount—Lay the bird upon the
table with the head to the left ; having arranged
the wings and legs to keep the bird in the right

HUNTING, TRAPPING “AND TANNING.

position, place a weight on the tail. Brush the
skin of the neck with the soap, then stuff with the
flax, taking care not to distend it. Anoint the
back as far as the rump, stuffing it one-third of
the thickness, that the wire may rest on a thick
layer of flax. Prepare four wires. One for the
tack which may be a little longer than the body;
at about one-quarter of its length it should be
twisted into a. small ring, by the pincers, and
pointed with the file at the extreme end; two
others are to be cut somewhat longer than the
legs. The tail wire is to be formed into an oval,
in size, about one-third of the length of the bird’s
body, twisting it a short distance from the ends,
that they may form a fork ; the two prongs to be
pointed and bent near enough together to enter
the rump; the ends will be hidden under the
tail, the oval to enter the body of the bird. The
back wire being oiled, may now be introduced
across the skull, passing into the back in the
middle of the flax, so that the ring in this wire
will be brought a little toward the anterior art,
and can receive the extremities of each 0 the
wires which have passed through the thighs and
claws.

The leg wires are introduced by making a

assage through the shank and bone at the thigh,
By piercing them with an awl, the size of the
wire. The wire must be passed in a straight
line over the knee, and is to be brought to the
little ring of the body wire, both leg wires and
the end of the back wire are to be twisted to-
gether with the pincers, and be lowered toward
the tail. The wires thus adjusted and resting on
the flax, the skin must be well anointed and
filled to its natural dimensions.

The body may now be sewed up with a fine
glover’s needle and sewing silk, with what is
known as ball or carpet stitch.

If the orbits of the eye are not sufficiently
plump, a little cotton may be added, moistened
with the gum with which the artificial eyes are
to be fixed. Give the eye a natural appearance
having the lids well rounded and brought over
the glass.

In fixing the bird to a standard its natural at-
titude should be copied as accurately as possible.
The feet should not be too wide apart, the legs
should be so bent at the knee-joints and the body
so inclined forward that the root of ‘the tail will
be on an exact line with the knees. This forms
the natural angle. The head may be inclined a
little to one side. If the bill is likely to sepa-
rate, a thread should be passed through the
nostrils and tied beneath, until the bird is quite dry.

The feathers should now be carefully smoothed
and arranged with a camel’s hair brush, and the
wings tied in a natural position, and the body
should be bound with a little piece of muslin un-
til every part is perfectly dry.

A little paper cone may be ut over the head,
to keep the feathers in place, tgr a few days.

Stuffed birds should be kept free from dust, in
a moderate temperature, out of the sun. A
common bell glass will answer to cover a single
specimen or a small group. They should be fre-
quently examined, for moths and insects are very
apt to get into the feathers.

Five drops of Prussic acid, on a piece of cotton,
placed in a case will effectually destroy insects.

BLEA CHIzVG W001. 0N TANNED
PEI. TS.—Put an old pot or other iron vessel in
the bottom of a hogshead, and in the vessel 9.

 

179

roll of brimstone. Fasten near the top astick or
two, to place the skin on. The wool must be
wet, when hung on the sticks. Heat an old iron
red hot, or take live coals to start the brimstone.
When it is burning briskly cover the hogshead
tight to keep the smoke in. In bleaching blankets
we put them in after dinner and take them out
next morning. If not white enough, repeat the
process.

BUFFALO SKINS, Indian Mode cy“ Tann-
ing—The hard and incessant labor that is 116-
cessary to properly ‘Indian tan’ a robe is not
easy to realize unless one may see the work go
on day by day from the first step, which is to
spread out the pelt or undressed hide upon the
ground, where it is pinned fast by means of
wooden pins driven through little cuts in the edge
of the robe into the earth. The flesh side of thel
robe, being uppermost, is then worked over by‘
two, and sometimes three, squaws. The tools
used are often very rude, some being provided
simply with sharp stones or buffalo bones.
Others, more wealthy, have a something that
much resembles a drawing knife or shave of the
cooper. The work in hand is to free the hide
from every particle of flesh, and to reduce the
thickness of the robe nearly one half, and some-
times even more. This fleshing, as it is termed,
having been thoroughly accomplished, the hide is
thoroughly moistened with water in which buffalo
brains have been steeped; for ten days the hide is
kept damp with this brain water. Once each day
the hide is taken up, and every portion of it
rubbed and re-rubbed by the squaws, who do not
have recourse to anything like a rubbing board,
but use their hands until it would seem as if the
skin would soon be torn off. There seems to be
no definite rule as to the length of time which
the robe shall occupy in curing. The squaw
labors until the hide becomes a robe, which may
require the work of one week or two, sometimes
even more; but I think that ten days may be
considered as the average time which it takes to
properly cure a robe.

DEER SIt'INS, To Dram—Put the skin into
the liquid while warm, viz.: eight quarts rain
water, to one pint soft soap. Warm it. Then

unch the hide, or work it with a soft stick and
et it lay one day. It is then to be taken out and
wrung—rolled between two logs—or even a
wringing machine will be better. Then stretch
it until it is dry, in the sun is best, or by a hot
fire. Then oil it thoroughly with any oil con-
venient. It should then be treated to the same
bath of suds (heated quite warm), and lay an-
other day. Then pull it out and dry as before.
Any oil will do, but good fresh butter is better
than anything else. When the skin is dry rub it
with ochre, which will give it a splendid yellow

color.

DEER SKINS, Oil Dr::.ring.—For curing
deerskins etc., take the green hide, as soon as
removed from the animal and grain it. This is
done by getting a beam seven'or eight inches
through and six to eight feet long, with two legs
in one end and the other resting on the ground so
that it will stand at a steep slant. The beam
should be of hard wood, should be clean and
smooth and with no ridges on it. Take a knife,
the corners should be whet smooth so as not to
cut the skin. Set down the upper end of the
beam against your belly and lay on the skin, hair
side down and take ofl‘ d‘ % unequal substances

180
before yo't turn the hair side up. Then com-
mence to grain bybeginning with the neck of the
skin next to you, shoving it against the hair,
holding firmly and using some strength it will
soon begin \0 go and bring a streak of grain.
In this waylides are grained when green; when
dry they have to be soaked in lime and water
until mellow. and then treated the same as a
green hide.

DEER SKINS, Tanning and Bufling fir
GLOVESr-n For each skin, take a bucket of
water, and put into it 1 quart of lime; let the
skin or skins lay in from 3 to 4 days; then rinse
in clean wate.:', hair, and grain; then soak them
in cold water to get out the glue; now scour or
pound in good soap suds; for half an hour; after
which take white vitriol, alum, and salt, 1 table-
spoon of each to a skin; this will be dissolved
in sufficient water to cover the skin and remain
in it for 24 hours; wring out as dry as convenient;
and spread on with a brush % pt. of currier’s
oil, and hang in the sun about 2 days; after
which you will scour out the oil with soap suds,
and hang out again until perfectly dry; then pull
and work them until they are soft; and ifa rea-
sonable time does not make them soft, scour out
in suds again as before; until complete. The oil
may be saved by pouring or taking it from the
top of the suds, if left standing 2 short time.

i The buff color is given by spreading yellow ochre
evenly over the surface of the skin, when finished,
rubbing it in well with a brush.

DOGS, Characteristic: qf a 10:11 fired Poinltr.
—The head should be broad at the tip, long and
tapering, the poll rising to a'point; nose open
and large ; ears tolerably long, slightly erect and
falling between the neck and jaw bone, slight]
pointed at the top; eyes clear and bright ; neck
and head set on straight; chest broad and deep;
legs and arms strong, muscular and straight ;
elbows well in ; feet small and hard; body not
‘over long, and well ribbed up; loins broad at
the top, but thin downwards ; hind quarters
broad; hind legs strong and large; tail long, fine
and tapering; hair short, sleek and close.

DYEING FOR BUCKSKIN (Bufi)-—5
parts of whiting to 2 parts of ochre (yellow), and
mix them with water to a paste, make into cakes
and dry. When a dressed skin is dry rub one
of the balls over the surface, rub the powder in.
Take a piece of sand paper and raise a nap on the
leather by going over with it.—-—(Black.)—-Take
clear logwood; after it is dry use copperas water
to blacken it. Be careful and not use too much
copperas.—-(Dark Brown.)—5 pounds of oak
bark; 4 pounds of fustic ; 14 ounces of logwood.
Use alum water (strong) to make it strike in.—
(Dmé.)——Mix blue clay with soft soap; add
blue vitriol to shade the color. It can be made
any shade you wish.

DYEING FOR MOROCCO AND SHEEP
LEA T HER—The following colors may be im-
parted to leather, according to the various uses
for which it is intended—(Elm. )——Blue is given
by steeping the subject a day in urine and indigo,
then boilingit with alum; or, it may be given by
tempering the indigo, with red wine, and washing
the skins therewith. —(Anal}1er.)——Boil elder-
berries or dwarf-elder, then smear and wash the
skins therewith and wring them out; then boil
the elderberries as before in a solution of alum-
water, and wet the skins in the same manner

once or twice , dry them, and they will be very

 

DICTIONAR Y 01“ E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

blue.—-(Rm’.)—-Red is given by washing the
skin and laying them 2 hours in galls, thenwring-
ing them out, dipping them in a liquor made
with ligustrum, alum and verdigris; in water,
and lastly in a dye made of Brazil-wood boiled
with lye.—(Purple.)—Purple is given by wetting
the skins with a solution of roche alum in warm
water, and when dry, again rubbing them with
the hand with a decoction of logwood in coldwater.
-—-( Grem.)—Green is given by smearing the skin
with sap-green and alum-water boiled—(Dark
Gram.)—Dark green is given with steel-filings
and sal ammoniac, steeped in urine till soft, then
smeared over the skin, which is to be dried in
the shade.— ( Yellow.) — Yellow is given by
smearing the skin over with aloes and linseed-
oil, dissolved and strained, or by infusing it in
welds—(1.13712! Oran t.)-—Orange color is given
by smearing it with ustic berries boiled in alum
water, or, for a deep orange, with turmeric.—
(Sky-color.) — Sky-color is given with indigo
steeped in boiling water, and the next morning
warmed and smeared over the skin.

FISH C UL T (IRE .——Brook trout that hatch
in the winter, lay their first crop of spawn a year
from the next fall; each female producing about
300 eggs, and doubling in number yearly until
they reach about 6,000. Salmon begin spawn-
ing at the same age and time, and produce from
5,000 to 20,000 eggs, according to the age and
size of the female. When’these fish are spawned
and artificially impregnated at the proper time,
nearly all the ova hatch, and if kept in the hatch-
ing boxes until they commence in the spring, and
are then turned into the stream they will take of
themselves. In this way the number of fish can
be increased a hundred fold annual] in each
river, beyond the natural increase, till t e waters
are literally filled with them.-— Gama] Dzrrttz'vns,
(as given by Mr. Seth Green). Build your ponds
according to the amount of water you have. If
you have but little, build small. The water
should be changed every 24 or 48 hours, and the
oftener it changes the better. The trout can be
very plenty if they have sufficient fresh water
food. Impregnated spawn can be had from the
first of November to the first of March, for ten
dollars per thousand, shipped in moss. They
can be sent a fifty days’ journey packed in a box
with moss. I place the moss box in a tin pail,
filled with sawdust, so that the spawn will not
feel the changes of heat and cold. They can-
not be shipped with safety in warm weather.—
Handling t/zc Spawn—Pick the moss carefully
off from the top of the spawn. Then put the
box in a pan of water and turn it nearly bottom
side up, and pick the moss out very carefully.
The spawn will sink to the bottom, and you can
pick the moss out of the pan. If there is a little
left in it will do no harm. Then pour the spawn
in your hatching trough by holding the edge of
your pan under water, and “place” them with-
out touching the spawn, by agitating the water
with the bearded end of a feather. The dead
spawn will turn a .milk white color, and should
be picked out. Your trough should be so ar-
ranged that the water will run in at about twelve
feet per minute. The water should be filtered
by running through gravel, or cloth screens, to
prevent the sediment from reaching the spawn.
I run about one inch of water over my spawn,
and if any sediment gets on them and is allowed
to remain there long. it will surely kill them.

HUNTING, TRAPPING AND TANM’NG.

Remove all sediment with the bearded end of a
quill by agitating the water, without touching the
spawn.

Large ponds with but little water, get too
warm in summer and too cold in winter, for trout
to do well. It is detrimental to have any other
fish with trout. Any kind of fish or fish spawn
is good for feed. The young should be fed twice
per day very slowly—if fed fast the feed sinks
and befouls the trough, and the trout will sicken
and die. If fed regularly and the trough kept
clean with a good change of‘ water, and not kept
too thick, they will live and do well. If neg-
lected they will surely die.—I/V/zat is deal/z to
Sputum—T he sun, sediment, rats, mice, snails,
crawfish and many water insects. My troughs
are 25 feet long and 15 inches wide. The water
that feeds each trough would go through a half-
inch hole with a three inch head. Use fine
gravel that has no iron-rust in it. My troughs
are three inches higher at the head. The aver-
age temperature of the water is 45 degs., and
the fish hatch in 70 days. Every degree colder
or warmer will make about six days’ difference
in hatching. Trout hatch the soonest in warm
water. The sack of their bellies sustains them
for forty or forty-five days after hatching; then
they need food. I use beef liver, chopped with
a razor or sharp knife, nearly to the consistency
of blood. If you have small streams or shallow
water near the head of your pond, put a few
trout in a place in the stream and pond, and they
will take care of themselves better than you can.
The object of distributing them is that they will
get more food. All old streams and ponds have
plenty of food for small trout and large, which
you will find by examining the moss, sticks and
stones in your ponds and streams, as they are
full of water insects.

Young trout, one inch long, cost forty dollars
per thousand delivered at your nearest express
station. They can be carried in cans or barrels
any distance when small, and during the months
of January, February and March. They cannot
be carried with safety in warm weather without
a great deal more trouble. It takes as much
water to support a one year old trout as it does a
thousand small ones, of sufficient size for stock-
ing ponds and for shipping.

My trout begin to spawn the first of November
and cease the first of March. Spawning.—
Fishes, whether in the freedom of nature or in
artificial receptacles, show plainly enough the
approach of spawning. The bell of the female
becomes distended and yields rea ily to pressure.
There is a fluctuation under the hand, which
shows that the eggs are free from the ovary and
easily displaced. This being the case, take up
in your left hand a female fish, and hold it sus-
pended by the head and thorax over a flat-bots
tomed vessel containing clear water. Then with
the right hand passed from above downwards,
squeeze the loosened eggs through the anal
opening. A male fish is then taken, and the
rmlt lS expressed in the same way, though often
it flows by the mere act of suspending. This
substance, whlte and cream—like, soon gives to
the water the appearance of whey. To insure
effectual fecundation, the mixture in this state
should be gently stirred with the hand, or with
a soft brush. It requires but 2 or 3 minutes to
mom lish the fecundation.

F1 HING.—Rvd:fir .-At all fishing tackle

 

1ng

shops, rods made of vine, bamboo, hazel, and
hickory, of various lengths and fashions, may be
procured; some ar made to fit into canvas bags,

whilst others resem 1e walking canes; the for-
mer, however, are decidedly the best, being
longer and better made, as the joints are more
carefully fitted together. The rod should, when
put together, taper gradually from the butt end
to the top, and should be perfectly straight and‘
even. For general purposes, a rod of about:
twelve feet in length is the most convenient; but'
in wide rivers, fifteen and eighteen feet rods are
required. It is a good plan to have a rod for

each kind of fishing, as by such an arrangement

they can be kept in complete order, and ready

for immediate service. The rods should be'
ringed to guide the line from the reel; and when

screwing the joints together, particular attention'
should be paid to these rings to see that theyl
run regularly on the under side of the rod, so

that there may not be the least likelihood of the
line getting twisted. The rods should always

be kept in a place of moderate temperature,

neither too dry nor too moist; as in the former

case they would become brittle, and in the latter,

rotten; in warm, dry weather, if the joints are

slightly shrunk, they may be moistened a little
to make them adhere better; but if, through

being too wet, they stick together so that vou

cannot readily take them to pieces, wait till t ey

dry, rather than strain them by a forcible separ-

ation. It is a good plan to varnish the rods once

in two or three years with copal varnish, or else

with india rubber dissolved over a slow fire in

linseed oil; either of these preparations preserves

the rods, but especial care must be taken, when

re-varnishing, to scrape off the old surface before

putting on the new; and the same precaution

should be taken if the rods are carried to a fish-

ing tackle warehouse to be repaired.

FISHLVG, Limrfon—The most serviceable
lines are made of pure horsehair, for such as are
composed of hair and silk, from retaining the
Water, soon become rotten; neither can they be
thrown with the same precision, as they get soft
and flabby, and fall heavily on the water. Good.
lines should be perfectly twisted, round, and.
without any irregularities, and in point of color
those which are of a light gray, or brown, or
white, are the most useful: some anglers, how-
ever, prefer a light sorrel tint. The bottom or
casting line for fly fishing, which is afiixed to the
line on the reel, must be of gut, and of about the
same length as the rod; the gut should be strong
at the top, and very fine at the dropper or bot-
tom, and before any flies are made upon it, it
should be picked and tried to see that it is of a
uniform thickness throughout.

1?lele G, Floatrfir.—Floats can always be
procured ready made, of all sizes and every
variety of shape. For small fish and slow streams, . ‘
quill floats will be found the best, and in strong
and rapid rivers, or for the larger kinds of fish,
cork floats can be employed. If the angler pre-
fers making cork floats to purchasing them, he
must procure a piece of fine grained sound cork,
and bore a hole through it with a small red hot
iron, then put in a quill which will exactly fit the
a erture, and afterward cut the cork into the
s ape of a. pear. When this is finished he must
grind it smooth with pumice stone, and paint
and varnish it; and if he uses two or three bright
colors in the painting he will add much to the

.

l
I

182'

DICTIONARY OFEVERK-DA Y IVANTS.

 

gai'ety of its appearance. The cork float should
swim perpendicularly in the water, so that it may
betray the slightest nibble, asl must be carefully
poised by fastening a few shot on the line; the
sizes of shot proper for this purpose are from
swan shot down to No. 4; they should be split
about half way through with a small chisel, so as
to make a gap sufficiently wide to admit the line,
and when the latter is put in the gap should be
closed with a pair of pliers.

FISHING, thlrfar.—A reel is very useful,
as with its assistance parts of a river may be
reached which could not otherwise be attemp-
ted, it enables the angler also to play his fish
with the greatest ease and certainty. When
purchasing a reel, 3 multiplying one should be
selected, as it is superior to all others, and en-
ables the angler to lengthen and shorten his line
rapidly. It must be kept clean and well oiled,
and great care taken that no grit of any kind
gets into it.

FISHING, Hoakrfir.—Hooks are of various
patterns and sizes, beginning at N o. l, which is
the largest salmon size, and ending at N o. 14,
called the smallest midge. American hooks are
also very good, especially those made by Clarke’s
patent. Limerick looks are excellent; and those
made in Dublin, marked with 2 F’s, 2 B’s, and
so on, are second to none. A bad hook, be it
remembered, is worse than a bad knife, only fit
to be thrown away.

When fastening the hooks on your lines, use
strong but fine silk, and if you can get it near
the color of your bait, so much the better; wax
the silk thoroughly with shoemaker’s wax, and
wrap it four or five times round t e body of the
hook, then place the gut or hair on the inside of
your hook, and continue winding the silk tightly
round till on have wrapped it about three parts
down the ook.

Whipping is finishd off by slipping the end of
the silk through the last circle, and drawing it
tight. Knotting, by laying two pieces of gut or
hair together, one overlapping the other some
three inches or so, then holding one end in the
left hand, while forming a simple slip knot on it;
then turning the other end to the right, and doing
the same; after that drawing the two together,
when the knot is complete. N 0 direct pull will
ever unloosen this water knot, though it can be
undone easily. Gut is obtained from the silk-
worm. Gimp is any kind of tackle covered with
fine brass wire, to protect it from the teeth of
fish, sharp stones, or other injury.

FISHING, Baitrfor.—-Fish, in their natural
element, take such baits as the changing seasons
produce, and will not at one time of the year bite
at the same bait which they may be caught with
at another; forinstance, in the spring and autumn,
worms may be used all day long, but in summer,
worms must only be used early and late, morn-
ing and evening. An earth-worm is naturally
the first bait the young angler looks out for: it is
always to be had, is ut on the hook without
difficulty, and (excepting at the times above
stated) may always be used for certain kinds of
fish, with the certainty of hooking something, if
proper patience is used. When baiting with a
worm, the hook should be put in close to the
to of the worm’s head, and then passed care-
f 1y down, gently working the worm up the
hook at the same time. Not more than a quarter
of an inch of the worm should be left hanging

 

over the hook. To scour or starve these worms,
and get rid of the earthy matter they contain,
they must be placed in damp moss, not soddened
with water, but only damp. In creeping through
the fibers of the moss, they compress and empty
themselves. .

The ash-grub, which is found in the rotten
bark of a tree that has been felled some time, is
an excellent bait for all small “pan” fish, such
as chub, sun-fish, perch, etc., and may be used
all the year round; it should be kept in wheat
bran. All grubs or worms make good bait for
little fresh water fish.

Grasshoppers are good baits during June, July,
and August; their legs and wings must be taken
off before they are put on the hook.

Shrimp are good for bass, tom cod, and lafay.
ette fish. Crab and clam are good bait for these
also, shedder crab especially. 1 -

FISHING, Part: Bailrfor.—-( Clztere Parks.)
Take some old cheese and the crumb of white
bread, and mix them up to a tolerable degree of
consistency, and you will make a good bait for
chub. (W/zz'te Bread Parie.) Knead crumbs of
white bread dipped in honey in the palm of your ,
hand until they attain a fair degree of consistency;
it is good for small fish. (Wlmzl Paste.) Pro- .
cure some new wheat, remove the husks, and
afterward pound it; then pour some milk or
water over, and gently simmer the composition;
when cold, it will be somewhat like a jelly, and
a very small piece only should be put on the
hook.

Paste baits are not at all adapted for swift, run-
ning streams, but for quiet brooks, ponds, or very
still rivers; you must be sharp of eye, and quick
to strike, otherwise both fish and bait will give
you the slip. A quill float is better than a cork
one when baiting with paste, as it betrays the
slightest nibble.

FISHIJVG, Ground Bait or.—Ground baiting
is a most essential part 0 angling, and ought
never to be omitted, as success in bottom or float
fishing cannot be expected, unless the proper
means for drawing the fish together are resorted
to. The object for throwing bait into the water,
is to collect fish to one particular spot, and then
to use a superior kind of bait, though of a simi-
lar kind, on the hook. Thus, if going to angle
with earth worms, throw in for ground bait
those that are unscoured, and fish with those
that are well scoured.

For small creek fish, mix bran and clay to-
gether into lumps about the size of an apple;
place some grubs in the middle, and close the
clay over them. It is a very useful bait in a still
pond, hole, or slight edd .

Or take the crumb 0 white bread, soak it in
water, squeeze it almost dry, add bran, and work
them up together until they acquire the consist-
ency of clay.

Brewer’s grains will also be found very ser~
viceable; they must be perfectly fresh.

Grubs, worms, the toughest parts of crabs,
lobsters, or clams, may be thrown in without
taking the trouble of working them into balls or
clay, if the water is perfectly still; but if you are
fishing in a stream, such a system of ground bait-
ing is injurious, as they are carried away by the
stream, and draw the fish from the spot.

F1517, C/ziner: Art qf Catching—Take Coc-
culus Indicus, pulverize and mix with dough,
then scatter it broadcast over the water as you

HUNTING, TRAPPING AND TANNING.

would sow seed. The fish will seize it _with.great
avidity, and will instantly become so intox1cated
that they will turn belly u on to of the water,
by dozens, hundreds or t ousan s, as. the case
may be. All that you now have to do, 15 to have
a boat or other convenience to gather them up,
and as you gather, ut them into a. tub of clean
water, and present y they will be as lively and
healthy as ever.

FISH, Charmin—The so called fish charms, as
given in many books and retailed as great secrets,
are as a rule a mass of nonsense, and when em-
ployed successfully make the fish, caught, un-
desirable for eating, impregnated more or less as
they must be, with the “charms”. These re-
marks apply also to the above “Chinese art of
catching”. The only legitimate way of catching
fish is by the hook and net and no other should
be resorted. to. Some of these “secrets” are as
follows: For bait, take a handful of swamp-apple
blossoms; put them in a glass jar or bottle,
together with a gill of rum; cork the bottle tight
and let it stand in the sun for three or four hours;
then take half a pint of water that is found in
places where grows the plant commonly termed
flytrap. This plant, the botanical name of which
is dionza murcipula, vegetates in quag moss
around fresh ponds. Saturate your bait with the
liquid two or three hours before using. The
liquid should be kept in a wooden or earthen
vessel. Another is to put the oil of Rhodium on
the bait when fishing with a hook, and you will
always succeed; or, take the juice of smallage or
lova e, and mix with any kind of bait. As long
as t ere remain any kind of fish within many
yards of your hook, you will find yourself busy
pulling them out. Or, get over the water after
dark, with a light and a dead fish that has been
smeared with the juice of stinking gladwin. The
fish will gather around you in large quantities,
and can easily be scooped up.

FISHING, wit/mu! Nets, Liner, Spears,
Snares, “Both”, or Bait—The following plan
we have known used with great success to catch
fish in winter, in Pennsylvania. Where the water
was clear and still, sa the back water of a dam,
it would often freeze hard enough to make good
skating and yet the ice would be so clear that the
fish could be seen lying at the bottom or lazily
moving about. By striking the ice (not to hard)
immediately over the fish, a sufficient concussion
would be produced to stun the fish. It would
immediately turn over and come up to the ice,
its white belly showing clearly against the ice
below, when we proceeded to cut a hole and take
out the fish. A mallet generally was used to
strike the ice, as we produced a stunning blow
with it without killing the fish, as would be likely
to occur were the blow struck with the poll ot
the ax. On taking the fish home and putting
them into water—although some or all would be
frozen stiff, quite a number would often revive,
and it was to produce this result that the mallet
was referred to strike with.

F SHIN G, Wit/z Natural Fly.—This con-
sists in fishing with the living flies, grasshoppers,
etc., which are found on the banks of the rivers
or lakes where you are fishing; it is racticed
with a long rod, running tackle, and ne line.
When learning this system of angling, begin by
fishing close under the banks, gradually increas-
mg your distance until you can throw your live
but across the stream, screening yourself behind

 

183

atree, a bush, or a cluster of weeds, otherwise
you will not have the satisfaction of lifting a
single fish out of the water. In rivers where
immense quantities of weeds grow in the sum-
mer, so as almost to check the current, you must
fish where the stream runs most rapidly, taking
care that in throwing your line into those parts
you do not entangle it among the weeds. Draw
out only as much line as will let the fly touch
the surface, and if the wind is at your back, it
will be of no material service to on in carrying
the fly lightly over the water. n such places
the water is generally still, and your bait must
if possible be dropped with no more noise than
the living fly would make if it fell into the water.
Keep the top of your rod a little elevated, and
frequently raise and depress it and move it to
and fro very gently in order that the fly by its
shifting about may deceive the fish and tempt
them to make a bite. The instant your bait is
taken, strike smartly, and if the fish is not so
large as to over-strain and snap your tackle, haul
it out immediately, as you may scare away many
while trying to secure one. There are very
many baits which may be used with success in
natural fly fishing, of which, however, we shall
content ourselves with enumerating some of the
most usual and useful.

Wasps, hornets and humble bees are esteemed
good baits for dace, eels, roach, bream and chub;
they should be dried in an oven over the fire,
and if not overdone, they will keep a long while.

FISHING, W'z't/E A rtz’ficz'al Fly.———Artificial fly
fishing consists in the use of imitations of these flies
and of other fancy flies, and is unquestionably the
most scientific mode of angling, requiring great
tact and practice to make the flies with neatness
and to use them successfully, and calling forth as
it does so much mere skill than the ordinary
method of bottom fishing, it merits its superior
reputation. It possesses many advantages over
bottom fishing, but at the same time it has its
disadvantages; it is much more cleanly in its
preparations, inasmuch as it does not require the
angler to grub for clay and work 11 a quantity
of ground baits, and is not so toi some in its
practice, for the only encumbrances which the
fly fisher has are simply a light rod, a book of
flies, and whatever fish he may chance to catch;
but there are several kinds of fish which will not
rise at a fly, and even those that do will not be
lured from their quiet retreat during very wet or
cold weather. It would be as well if the young
angler could go out for some little time with an
old experienced hand, to observe and imitate his
mmements as closely as possible; but as ma
of our readers will not, in all probability, be
able to enjoy such an advantage, five subjoin some
instructions by which they may pursue this in-
teresting branch of angling.

FISIJ, Sic-inning and Mounting—This class
of animals possess many beauties, which when
removed from their native element, vanish for-
ever, and it is in vain for the taxidermist to try
to imitate those iridescent tints which characterize
the living specimens. The best he can do is to
preserve in form and general outline those char-
acteristics by which he may be able to recognize
his subject. Before proceeding to describe the
operation of skinning, it may be well to state
that the scales, as well as their color, may be
preserved to a certain degree by applying tissue-
paper to them, which from the natural glutinous

384

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

matter which covers the scales will adhere firmly;
this being allowed to remain until the skin has
dried, may be easily removed by moistening with
a damp cloth. All small fish should be mounted
in section, while the larger varieties may be
preserved entire. Suppose the fish to be of such
a size as to be mounted in section. First, it is
necessary that it be as fresh as possible, as the
scales will become detached if decay be allowed
to commence. Lay the fish on one side, and
cover the side uppermost with tissue-paper, as
stated above; also extend the fins by means of
the same, and allow them to remain a few mos
ments until they become fixed and dry; this will
be a protection to the fins and scales during the
process of skinning. Having provided yourself
with a damp cloth, 5 read it smoothly upon the
table, and place the sh upon it with the papered
side down. With the dissecting-scissors cut the
skin along a line following the contour of the
body, but a little below the extreme dorsal edge,
and a little above the ventral one, and remove
the skin included within this line. The remain-
ing skin must now be detached from the ‘flesh,
beginning at the head and separating it down-
ward toward the tail. The spine must be severed
close to the head, and also at the tail, and the
entire body removed. All the flesh having been
taken from the skin, and the eyes removed, the
inside must be wiped out and the preservative
applied. It is necessary here to repeat the caution
not to use any unnecessary strain that will be
liable to distend the skin. The skin should now
be filled with cotton or tow, and this must be
laid so evenly that there shall be no prominences
u on the outside of the same. When filled, it
s ould be laid with the open side down, upon a
board of proper dimensions previously prepared,
and fastened to it by means of small tacks, com-
mencing at the head, and fastening the edges
downward toward the tail. It should then be set
aside in the air to dr , care being taken not to
expose it to the rays 0 the sun. When dry the
paper which covers the exposed side, and with
which the rays are distended, may be removed
in the manner reviously stated, and the glass
eyes inserted With a little putty. As the glass
eyes used by taxidermists are generally too
5 herical, and polished, it is well to manufacture

em of wood, using common paint to restore
the color, avoiding the use of varnish. Finally, the
skin should receive a coat of thin colorless varnish,
after which it is ready for the cabinet. In sharks
and large fishes an incision should be made be-
low the head at its base, along the ridge of the
back, following to either side of the dorsal fin
down to the tail. The skin can then be separated
on each side, and by severing the vertebrae at
the head and tail, the entire body may be re-
moved. The tail having been skinned, the head
should be pushed inward and the skin passed
over it, when all the cartilage can be freely cut
away. In stuffing these large species it becomes
necessary to use a body support, and a bar of
light wood may be used for this purpose; this
should enter the skull, thereby being more easily
ke t in position, and extend to the base of the
tail1 Hooks can be fastened to this bar, and by
means of wire the specimen can be suspended
from above. The body should then be stuffed
with hay, and the incision upon the back carefully
sewed up. If the first coat of varnish is observed
to rise in scales, it should be removed with a so.

 

lution of nitric acid and .water, and the skin
allowed to dry, when a second application of
varnish will ever afterward remain quite solid.

FOXES, T a T rap—The trap should be well
smeared with blood, or beeswax, to destroy the
odor of the iron. Set it in soft earth, packing
moss or leaves lightly around the pan and jaws.
Bait with fried meat. An old trapper says: “to
make the allurement doubly sure, obtain from
the female of the dog, fox or wolf, the matrix, in
the season of coition, and preserve it in alcohol,
tightly corked. Leave a small portion of it on
something near the trap; also, when visiting the
traps, put some on your boots.”

Another method is to make a bed of chafi' in
the open field, in alocality the fox is supposed
to visit, but where it will be least likely to be
visited by passing hunters. Visit it daily, and
stir into the chaff, very old or toasted cheese, or
scraps of meat made fine, using the utmost cau-
tion not to change the appearance of the bed or
its surroundings, and making as few tracks as
possible. The materials of which the bed is
composed should not be handled any more than
is absolutely necessary. Too much care cannot
be taken in making the bed ; for if foxes are
plenty, and you get several to visit it, it will last
for some time, and will afford you a great deal
of amusement. As soon as you are satisfied a
fox has visited the bed regularly for five or six
nights, you may put in your trap. It should be
a small sized double spring, and should be fas-
tened to a clog, light enough for the fox to drag,
but heavy enough so that he cannot get too far,
away ; though if there is snow on the ground,
there will be no difficulty in finding him, if he
goes some distance. He may be caught the first
night, but more likely than not, will dig out your
trap, or show his contempt in some other way,
compelling you to bring into force all your inge~
nuity, before your efforts are successful.

FURS, How to Select—In purchasing furs a
sure test of what dealers call a “prime” fur is
the length and density of the down next the skin;
this can be readly determined by blowing a brisk
current of air from the mouth against the set of
fur. If the fibers open readily, exposing the skin
to the view, reject the article ; but if the down is
so dense that the breath cannot penetrate it, or
at most shows but a small portion of the skin,
the article may be accepted.

F URS, T o Clean—Strip the fur articles of
their stuffing and binding, and lay them as much
as possible in a flat position. They must then
be subjected to a very brisk brushing, with a stiff
clothes-brush ; after this, any moth-eaten parts
must be cut out, and be neatly replaced by new
bits of fur to match. Sable, chinchilla, squirrel,
fitch, etc., should be treated as follows : warm a
quantity of new bran in a pan, taking care that it
does not burn, to prevent which it must be ac-
tively stirred. When well warmed, rub it thor-
oughly into the fur with the hand. Repeat this
two or three times ; then shake the fur, and give
it another sharp brushing until free from dust.
White furs, ermine, etc., may be cleaned as fol-
lows: lay the fur on the table, and rub it well
with bran made moist with warm water; rub until
quite dry, and afterward with dry bran. The wet
bran should be put on with flannel, and the dry
with a piece of book-muslin. The light furs, in
addition to the above, should be well rubbed with
magnesia, or a piece of book-muslin, after the

HUNTING, TRAPPING AND TANNING.

bran process. Furs are usually much im roved
by stretching, which may be managed as {0 ows:
to a pint of soft water add three ounces of salt;
dissolve; with this solution sponge the inside of
the skin (taking care not to wet the fur), until it
becomes thoroughly saturated; then lay it care-
fully on a board with the fur side downward, in
its natural disposition; then stretch, as much as
it will bear to the required shape, and fasten with
small tacks. The drying may be quickened by
placing the skin a little distance from the fire or
stove.

F URS, To prawn/e from Malia—Darkness is
all that is necessary. The “miller,” the eggs
from which moths are hatched, only moves in
light; the moths themselves work in darkness.
Hang the furs in a very dark closet and keep the
doors shut; keep it always dark, and you can
have no trouble. But, as closet doors are some-
times left open, the better way is to enclose the
articles loosely in a paper, put this in a pillow-
case, or wrap around a cloth, and hang it up in
a dark closet. Camphors, spices or perfumes
are of no use. Continual darkness is suflcicient.
And do not take out the furs in une or July to
give them an “airing,” for even t en cometh the
enemy, and it may be that, in fifteen minutes
after exposure, it has deposited a hundred eggs.
If you consider an airing indis ensable, give the
furs a good switching, and put them qulckly back.

FURS, Domertz'c Manufacture qf.—The skins
of racoons, minks, muskrats, rabbits, foxes, deer,
cats, dogs, woodchucks and skunks are all va-
luable. Handsome robes may be made from
the skins of the last two animals and the writer
has seen fur coats made from the skins of wood-
:hucks, well tanned, dyed and trimmed, which
were elegant as well as comfortable, and no one
but a connoisseur would be able to guess their
origin. Of the finer and nicer furs, beautiful collars,
muffs, cuffs, caps, gloves and trimmings may be
made, with a little ingenuity and perseverance ;
and who would not feel a greater satisfaction in
wearing nice article, from the fact that it was
something of their own manufacture, a product
of their own taste and genius P

Very handsome floor mats are made by tanning
sheep pelts, and dyeing them some bright color,
which is done with very little trouble; the art of
dying is now so familiar to almost every house-
hold. Furs may be dyed as easily as woolen
goods, notwithstanding the impression that it is
an art known only to the trade. Any dye that
will color woolens will also dye furs, only care
must be taken not to have the dye too hot or the
texture of the skin will be injured.

The mode of tanning usuall followed by city
furriers, is to rub the skins we I with rancid but-
ter, then tread them thoroughly in a tub or vat,
after which a large quantity of sawdust is mixed
with them, and the process of treading continued
until all the grease is absorbed, when they are
finished off by beating, working and rubbing with
chalk and potter’s clay, whipping and brushing.
An old trapper practised this method with small
skins, first washing with a suds of soap and sal-
soda to free them from grease, then rinsing in
clear water to cleanse them from the suds, then
rubbing as dry as possible, after which they were
put into a mixture of two ounces of salt to a uart
of water, added to three quarts of milk or ran
water containin one ounce of best sulphuric
acid, and stirred riskly for fortyor fifty minutes;

 

I85
from this they are taken drip ing into a strong
solution of sal-soda and stirre till they will no
longer foam; they are then hung to dry, when
they are very soft and pliable. A very good and
simple process in use among farmers is to sprinkle
the flesh side, after" scraping it well, with equal
parts of pulverized alum and salt, or washing it
well with a strong solution of the same, then
folding the flesh side together, and rolling it
compactly; in which state it should remain for
eight or ten days; then it is opened, sprinkled
with bran or sawdust to absord the moisture, and
rolled up again, and after remaining 24 hours,
the process is completed by a thorough rubbing;
and manipulation, on which the pliability de-
pends. Skins, when taken off, should be freed
from grease or flesh, by thorough scraping, when
they may be dried, and left to await the leisure
of the owner. Previous to tanning theymust be

_well soaked and wrung dry.

It is no extravagance toassert that every farm-
er’s family may furnish their own fur collars,
gloves, robes, and other articles of dress and or-
nament, with trifling expense from the resources
within their own reach; but from want of more
knowledge on the subject, valuable skins are
wasted or disposed of for a mere fraction of their
real value, and articles of apparel that should
have been made from them are bought at extra-
vagant prices of fur dealers.

G OPHERS, T a TWA—Go where they work;
find the last mound made; open the hole, set in
a common spring trap, cover with a little light
sand; leave the hole open. The gopher will
come to close the hole, and get trapped.

GOPHER TRA P, How fa Mata—Take a
hard piece of wood, about nine inches long, and
turn it so that one end will be two and ahalf
inches in diameter and the other end three inches
gradually sloping from one end to the other.
With a two inch auger bore a hole in the small,
end eight inches deep. Then take a fine toothed
rip saw and split it open from end to end in two
equal parts. In one of these halves a spring
door is fixed, made of sheet iron, which is round
like the opening and curved to fit down in the
half. This is made fast on a hinge near the en-
trance, with a spring under it sufficient~ to raise
it to a perpendicular, the hinge so arranged that
it can only be raised to a perpendicular. Another
piece of sheet iron, made round to move easily
in the two-inch opening, is made which is at-
tached to a long, narrow strip of iron, which
strip moves easily under two staples in the bot-
tom of the half to which the door is fastened.

In order to set the trap the door is pressed
down, and the end of this strip projects over it
and thus holds the door open. Then take the
two halves and put them together, and slip over
them a thin wide ring, made sloping like the trap,
and it is ready for use. ‘

With this trap you go out where the gopher is
at work, and find his last made hillock, and if it
is not quite finished, all you have to do is to stick
the trap in the hole, open end downward, and in
a short time he will bring up his load of dirt,
and, in pressing against the upper piece of iron,
he will push the strip of iron from over the door,
when the spring will lift it up and shut him in.

GUNS, To Guard against Bursting—It is
stated that ninety-five out of every hundred in-
stances of the bursting of a double-barrel gun
can be traced to detectskin the left barrel. The

:86

DICTIONARY OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

reason is simply that the right is more frequently
used and reloaded, perhaps ten times to the left
one being discharged once. Every time the right
barrel is discharged the gunpowder in the left
is pulverized more or less by the shock, and the
settling of the grains leaves a space between the
charge and the wadding. Hence when the left
barrel is discharged it frequently explodes. These
accidents, it is asserted, can be avoided by send-
ing the ramrod home with one or two smart
blows into the non-discharged barrel every time
the other is reloaded.

GUNS, How to Clzoart.~——Whatever may be
the particular make you prefer, let your gun be
a good one. If you are not competent to select
yourself it would be best to obtain the aid of
some capable and reliable friend, and we recom-
mend you to purchase of some dealer of estab-
lished reputation. The claims of the different
makers can, in most cases, be ascertained from
their respective circulars. Breech-loaders have
several important advantages , though many
sportsmen retain a preference for the old-fash-
ioned muzzle-loading gun, for its supposed su-
perior shooting powers. In every other respect
the first rank seems conceded to the breech-
loader; with it the Sportsman’s hand need never
be at the muzzle under any circumstance. It is
far more expeditiously used, as powder, shot, cap
and wadding are all inserted in the barrel at the
same time; and it is far more easily cleaned, as
all that is required is to draw a piece of flannel
attached to a string through the barrels once or
twice after a days shooting.

GUNS, How to Us: Aficflwly—The secret
of success is a very simple matter after all. It
consists in aiming well forward; nine out of ten
misses are owing to the aim not being sufficiently
forward. When game is going from you near

‘Ehe ground, the aim should be full high, or the
ulk of the charge, if not the whole of it, will
pass below it; and when birds are higher than
the gun going from you, the aim should be
equally low, or the charge will pass above them.
In cross-shots within, say thirty-five or forty
yards, the aim should be at least a foot or a foot
and a half in front of it; at greater distance the
allowance should of course be more. In par-
tridge shooting, always endeavor to get cross-
shots if possible, and this may generally be done
by walking across, or heading your dog when
ointing. If you go straight from him to the
irds, they will generally go straight away; birds
when flying across you present a-far easier shot,
and expose a more vital part.
1 GUIV, (Scattering S/ial) How to Rental).—
The only remedy known to gun-smiths is by
choke-boring, that is, boring from the breech of
the gun, and so as to have a gradual taper to-
ward the muzzle. This method of boring greatly
' improves the shooting qualities of the gun, as
the charge concentrates at the muzzle. Large
shot are more apt to scatter than fine, but this
depends on the bore of the gun. A large-bored
gun does not shoot fine shot so well as medium.
A small-bored gun throws fine shot with greater
force than a large-bored one. As a general thing,
a small-bored gun is not adapted to large shot,
as it does not chamber them well. The length
of gun also depends on the size of bore—28 or
30 inches for a gun of from to to 14 gage; 30 to
34, of guns from 8 to to; 26 to 28, guns of 15
to 18 gage.

 

G UN, (Slzot) How to Clean—First place your
hammers at half-cock, draw out the ramroa and
bolt; then lift the barrels from the stock and
you are ready to wash. Place the barrels in cold
water, being careful the water is clean and that
there is not any dirt or sand in the pail; then
if you have the three-jointed washing rod with
the necessar implements that accompany it, first
use the brush until you have removed most of the
dirty powder; next take tow, and wash until
you have gotten it perfectly clean; then take
soft cotton rags, and dry it out thoroughly.
It is best to rub the barrels until they feel warm
to the hand, then you may know your gun is dry,
and in no danger of rusting. Hot or boiling
water should never be used in the cleaning of a
shot gun because it will,— can not help—injur-
ing the “temper” of it.

HA W'K and 0701 T raps—To catch hawks or
owls, take a pole 20 feet long, to be set a short
distance from the house or barn or on the poultry
house. Split the top so as to admit the base of
a common steel trap, which should be made fast.
When both trap and pole are set you may be sure
of game of some kind. These birds naturally
light on high objects such as dead branches of
trees or tops of stacks, and one should use judg-
ment about the place where he puts the traps.
fin open field, near the chicken yard, is probably

est.

IIIDES, Nay Made of taking qflI—A new
machine for taking off hides is now in use in
South America. The operation is short, sharp,
and decisive, requiring only a minute for each
hide. Cold air is forced by a pump between the
flesh and the hide, and the thing is done. The
process ought to be an improvement on the old
hacking and scraping system.

IIIDES, (Gram) T a Cara—A great many
butchers do not use proper care in this branch,
and the consequence is that the hides will not
pass city inspection, owing entirely to the igno-
rance and carelessness of persons preparing them
for market. The proper way to salt hides is to
lay them flat, flesh side up, and form a nearly
square bed say 12 by I 5 feet, folding in the edges
so as to make them as nearly solid as possible.
Split the ear in the cords that run up the ear in
each one, so as to make them lie out flat. Sprinkle
the hide with two or three shovelfuls of coarse
salt, as the size may require—say for a sixty 01'
eighty pound hide, from ten to fifteen pounds of
salt. At any rate cover the hide well, as it need
not be wasted; then let them lie in this from 12
to 20 days, after which take them up, shake the
salt out and use it again.

INSECTS, T a Prerewe.—After killing the
in'sect with chloroform, paint it with a solution 01
carbolic acid in alcohol—4 grains to the ounce—-
and then dry in the sun. This will keep it fresh
and beautiful.

LAMBSKINS, To Prepare)?” Ladies 0110'-
roat:.———Make a strong suds with hot water; let
them get cold, and wash the skins, s ueezing
them carefully to get out all the dirt mm the
wool; wash the soap out with clean cold water,
and cover them with water for 12 hours; then
hang them over a pole to drain; when partially
dry, stretch them carefully on a board, and when
a little damp, sprinkle on them an ounce each
of pulverized saltpeter and alum; lay the flesh
sides together, and hang in the shade for two or
three days, turning them over every day to bring

(YUNTING, TRAPPING, AND TANNING.

the under skin uppermost till they are perfectly

dry; then scrape the flesh side till all scraps of

flesh are removed; rub it with pumice or rotten
stone and with the hands; then lay the cloak-
attern down on the flesh side of the skin, trace

It round with a pencil, and cut it out with a

sharp knife; overcast the edges together on the
wrong side, and line with quilted silk. N 0 col-
lar, fur, or trimming is worn with an astrachan
'or lambskin cloak.

LEA T HER, To Gild or S ilwr.—Finely-pow-
dered resin, and dust it over the surface of the
leather, then lay on the leaf, and apply (hot) the
letters or impression you wish to transfer; lastly,
dust off the loose metal with a cloth. The cloths
used for this purpose become, in time, very
valuable, and are often sold to the refiners at a
high price.

LEA T IVER, Oiling.-—Oils should not be ap-
plied to dry leather, as they will invariablyinjure
It. If you wish to oil a harness, wet it over
night, cover it with a blanket, and in the morn-
ing it will be dry and supple; then apply neat’s-
foot oil in small quantities, and with so much
elbow grease as will insure its disseminating it-
self throughout the leather. A soft, pliant har-
ness is easy to handle, and lasts longer than a
neglected one. Never use vegetable oils on
leather and among animal oils neat’s foot is the
best.

LEA T HER, Franc/l Patent—Work into the
skin with appropriate tools 3 or 4 successive
coatings of drying varnish, made by boiling lin-
seed-oil with white lead and litharge, in the pro-
portion of one pound of each of the latter to one
gallon of the former, and adding a portion of
chalk or ochre, each coating being thoroughly
dried before the application of the rest. Ivory
black is then substituted for the chalk or ochre,
the varnish thinned with spirits of turpentine,
and five additional applications made in the same
manner as before, except that it is put on thin
and not worked in. The leather is rubbed down
with pumice—stone, in powder, and then placed
in a room at 90 degrees, out of the way of dust.
The last varnish is prepared by boiling % lb. of
asphaltum with 10 lbs. of the drying oil used in
the’first stage of the process, and then stirringin
5 lbs. copal varnish and 10 lbs. of turpentine. It
must have I month’s age before using it.

LEA THE 11’, Franc/t Polish or Dressing/427'.
—Mix 2 pts. best vinegar with I pt. soft water;
stir into it % 1b. glue, broken up, % lb. log-
wood-chips, % oz. of finely powdered indigo, %
oz. of the best soft-soap, % oz. of isinglass: put
the mixture over the fire, and let it boil ten
minutes or more; then strain, bottle, and cork.
When cold, it is fit for use. Apply with a sponge.

LEA T HER, (Enameled) T o polish—2 pints
of the best cream; I pint of linseed oil; make
them each lukewarm, and then mix them well
together. Having previously cleaned the shoe
from dirt, rub it over with a sponge dipped in
the mixture; then rub it with a soft dry cloth
until a brilliant color is produced.

LEA THE/B, T a T an.—Soak the hide eight
pr nine da 5 in water, then put it in lime; take
It out. an remove the hair by rubbing it, and
soak it in clear water until the lime is entirely
out. Put one pound of alum to three of salt, dis-
solve in a vessel sufficiently large to hold the
hide; soak the hide in it three or four days, then
like it out, let it get half dry, and then beat or

 

187

rub it until it becomes pliable. Leather prepared
by this process will not do so well for shoes, but
answer well for ham strings, back bands, and
various other purposes on the farm. See “Tan-
ning" further on.

LEA T HER S CRAPS, To Ulz'lz'ze.—Here is
a method lately proposed by a Danish inventor,
one Mr. Thamsen, of Copenhagen. He takes
leather waste, cuttings, shaving or other small
bits of leather, either new or old, and reduces it
to a kind of fibrous pulp by hand-labor or by a
machine or mill, (either by grinding, pounding,
cutting, rasping, carding, or grating); if old
waste is used, it should first be cleaned thorough.
ly. This matter or pulp is then kneaded with
India-rubber, which is rendered fluid or dis-
solved in oils or spirits, and treated with am-
monia. Then he dissolves the India-rubber in
oil of turpentine. To effect this, the India-rubber
is cut into pieces and mixed with turpentine,
after which he lets it remain quiet in a closed ves-
sel until it is dissolved. When the India-rubber
is dissolved, he adds ammonia of a strength of
30 per cent.in the proportion of about equal parts
by weight of ammonia to the India‘rubber con-
tained in the solution; when the mass has be-
come of a grayish-white color, it is ready to be
mixed with the pulp.

Another and better mode is as follows. The
scraps are first cleansed, then soaked in water
containing I per cent.of sulphuric acid until the
material becomes soft and (plastic, and afterward
compressed into blocks an dried by steam. In
order to soften the blocks one pound of glycerine
is added to 100 pounds of material ; they are
then passed through rollers, and brought to the
proper thickness to be used as inner soles of
boots and shoes.

MIN/(BREEDING, To Trap YozmgMiné.
-——Adult minks are almost untamable, but young.
ones readily submit to handling, and are easily
domesticated. The time to secure oung minks
is in May and June, when they egin to run
with their dams. The streams must be quietly
watched for mink trails, and these tracked to the
nest. When they leave the hole the old one may
be shot, and the young ones secured, or, they
may be dug out. Those who own a breeding
stock of minks ask high prices for them; but
trappers represent to us that it is an easy matter,
with a little patience, to get the wild young ones.
Habits.—A successful breeder says that he does
not attempt to tame the wild mink, but only aims
to supply for it in a small space all the neces-
sities of its natural instincts. He says the matin
season commences about the first of March, an
lasts two weeks, never var ing much from that
date. The female carries her young about six
weeks. In the minker , where diet, water, tem.
perature, etc., are sim' ar with each animal, there
is so little difference in the time of mating and.
time of bearing young in different animals, that
five out of six litters dropped last spring, were
born within twelve hours of each other. The
young are blind from four to five weeks, but are
very active, and playful as kittens. The mother
weans them at from eight to ten weeks old. At
four weeks the mother begins to feed them meat;
this they learn to suck before they have teeth to
eat it. The nests in which the oung are born
are lined by the mother with sot material, and
are made in the hollow of some old stump, or
between the projecting roots of some old trag

188 - DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

and always where it is perfectly dry. The nest
is located near pure running water, which the
mother visits twice every twenty-four hours. She
feeds her young on frogs, fish, birds, mice, crabs,
etc., etc. The mink is from birth a pattern of
neatness and cleanliness, and as soon as a nest
begins to get foul and offensive, she takes one of
the young in her mouth, and depositing it in a
clean, suitable place, builds a nest about it, and
then brings the balance of the litter. She feeds
and cares for them until they are three and a-half
or tour months old. When the young are weaned,
about the Ioth of July, she builds her nest near
the water, in which the young soon learn to play.
There are usually four in a litter, though the
number ranges from two to six. Towards fall
the mother separates them into pairs. One pair
—or if the number he odd, the odd one—is left
in the nest; the other pair, or pairs, she places
often half a mile from each other, and then seeks
new quarters for herself. The young soon se-

arate, and each one catches his own frogs.
They do not pair, but the male is a sort of rover
and freelover. Minks, are unsociable, petulant.
vicious in play, savage in war. Late in the fall
they establish regular runways from one stream
to another, and usually under brush, fallen trees,
weeds, swale and under banks—anywhere, in
fact, where they can avoid the sunshine and
escape the chances of observation. The mink is
a sure prophet, and just before hard winter
begins, he lays by a store of food for the winter
in safe places, near his winter nests, of which he
has several. As the snows fall he burrows
under the snow, where he remains until about
February, when his supply of food is ex-
hausted and he is forced to search further for food.
Managementoj.——Mink being by nature solitary
wandering creatures, being seldom seen in com-
pany except during the breeding season, are
therefore impossible to be reared successfully, if
large numbers are kept constantly together there-
fore their inclosure should be a large one.—The
male and female should be permitted to be to-
gether frequently from the middle of February
until the middle of March. At all other times
keep them entirely separate. The young mink
make their appearance about the first of May.
When wild in the woods they will seldom vary
five days from this time; but when kept in con-
finement there is greater variation. About this
season they should have plenty of fine hay,
which they will carry into their boxes to make
nests. A box three or four feet long and 18
inches wide is the shape they prefer; it should
be placed as far as possible from the water, to

revent the mink from carrying water and mud
into it. The young mink when first born are
small and delicate, destitute of any kind of fur,
and much resembling young rats. If the old
mink is tame, the oung ones may be taken out
of the nest and handled when they are three
weeks old. They will soon learn to drink milk,
and may be fed every day. At five weeks old
they may be taken from the mother and put into
apen by themselves, when they will soon be-
come very playful and pretty, and make much
better mothers than they would if allowed to run
with the old ones. The shelter should be in the
shape of a long box, 5 or 6 feet wide, and 3 or 4
feet high, set upon legs, and with a good floor
and roof. Divide it into separate apartments,
6 feet long (or longer would be better), the front

 

of each apartment to be furnished with a swing-
ing-door of strong wire screen, with the hinges
at the top, and a button or some kind of fastener
at the bottom. A trough, 6 inches square, made
by nailing three boards together, should run the
whole length of the pen on the back side; one
end of the trough should be made several inches
lower than the other, so that the water can be
drawn off. \Vith this arrangement the water'
can be turned in at one end of the trough, and
be drawn off and changed as often as desired.
The lower end of the trough should be a little
deeper than the other, to prevent the water from
running over. Each apartment is furnished
with a box 3 feet long and 18 inches wide. On
one side of the box and near one end is made a
round hole, 212 inches in diameter, and provided
with a sliding cover, so that by means of a stick
it can be opened or closed from the outside.
This is so the mink can be shut up when the pen
is being cleaned out. On the top of the box and
at the other end should be a door large enough
to ut in hay for the nest and take out the young.
It Is necessary that they have abundance of ure,
soft water, fresh air, desirable shade and p enty
of exercises. These conditions secure to the
mink a good quality of dark fur, and good health.
Brush, weeds, etc., are allowed to grow in the
yard, but not near enough the wall to admit of
their climbing up and out.

MIA/K BREEDING. In addition to the
above direction for breeding mink, we give the
following experience of a gentleman in Vermont:
“I purchased one female and her litter of five,
two males and four females in all, and constructed
a building of rough boards, 10 by 4 feet, for a.
minkery. It had a floor tight enough to prevent
the escape of the animals; was properly ventil-
ated, ‘and divided into 6apartments, one of which
is an ante-room into which to step from the out-
side and close the door. Water is supplied by a.
lead pipe running in at one side, through all the
rooms, and out at the other into a trough where
small fish are kept, and occasionally given to the
minks. They were kept together until December
the 18th, when the males were put in an apart-
ment by themselves. On the Ioth of March
each male was put in with a female, each pair
separate, and after a couple of (lays one of the
males was put in with another female, and finally
with the third. They were separated about the
Ist of April, each female being kept alone and
supplied with a suitable box, with warm material
for a nest. When it was supposed they were
about to bring forth their young, they were
disturbed as little as possible; anything to ex-
cite them at this time, should be avoided, for
when irritated, they will sometimes eat their
young. The first female put with the perfect
male brought forth seven, one of which disap-
peared after they began to crawl around out of
their nest. The other two females had each a
pair, all of which (but the one mentioned) are
now alive, fine, fat, sleek fellows, and fully grown.
They are very easily kept, being fed once a day
upon warm milk with wheat bread crumbs, 3.
quart sufficing now for the whole lot, and once
upon fresh meat, care being taken not to over-
feed. An kind of meat and offal that is not
too fat wil answer. They are very fond of beef
liver, chickens’ heads and entrails, woodchucks,
(being careful not to give them the gall on the
liver, which is poisonous,) rats, mice, etc. The,

HUNTING TRAPPING AND TANNING.

are more easily cared for than one hog, and much
more cheaply kept. Nothing was paid out for
meat for them, until after Ist of July, when
a contract was made with a butcher to leave a
bullock’s head once a week. I am confident
that the increase of the minkery would have
been fully one-third more if both the males had
been erfect. I intend to keep them in pairs
, herea ter. They are not easily handled, but
3 struggle when caught against their will, and
.exude the thick fetid substance from glands near
ithe vent. They will bite severely, but can be
handled safely with thick buckskin gloves.

MIA/UK", To T rap—For mink the trap should
be set near some stream. If their holes cannot
be found make one. Set the trap in the cavity,
three sides of which should be barricaded with
stones, bark or any equivalent substance. Place
the bait at the farther extremity of the cavity,
beyond the trap. Bait with any kind of fresh
meat ; muskrat meat is good, butfish, either fresh
or stale is better. Bait should be smoked in
cold weather, to give it a stronger smell. The
best scent for attracting mink is prepared from
the decomposition of minnows, eels or trout.
Cut the fish into small pieces; put into a bottle,
cork loosely, and let it hang in the sunshine two
or three weeks in the summer. A few drops of
this on the bait, or on a stick near the trap, will
draw mink a long distance.

MOLES ( Ground), T a Destroy—There are
several mole traps in market that work well, pro-
vided the moles can be induced to go where they
will be caught. In addition to the traps, set men
to watching the moles during light showers in
summer, at which time they are more active, and
when one is found moving the soil he is to be
dug out and killed. More moles have been
caught in this way than with all the traps used.
Poisons of various kinds have been recommended,
but on trial they have proved worthless.

M USK RA T, T o T rap.-— Find a log with
some recent droppings of the muskrat on it, a
notch is cut in the log for the trap, an inch or
two under the water. The trap is fastened to a
tally—stick. Thesetally-sticks are green saplings
with a fork at the upper end, and a hook near the
bottom to hold itin the loose ground. The chain-
ring is slipped on to this tally stick, and care is
taken to so place the tally-stick and trap that
when caught, the muskrat shall take to the water
and be drowned. If on the land, among weeds
and bushes, he will not unfrequently twist 01? his
leg and escape. The traps are also placed in the
runs, on bogs and old muskrat houses, and wher-
ever there are recent indications that the musk-
rats come to feed. Where the game is scarce,
the traps are sometimes baited, but otherwise
this is not necessary. Carrots, parsnips, apples,
potatoes, or a piece of the flesh of muskrat can

e used for bait. A stick is stuck in the ground,
slanting in such amanner that the end shall be 6
or 8 inches above the treddle of the trap. The
bait is stuck on the end of the stick, and in this
way, if there are any rats in the Vicinity, you are
pretty sure to catch them. Sometimes the traps
are covered with an inch or two of weed; and
some trappers ut a drop or two of the oil, found
in the glands o the muskrat, on or near the traps.
The next morning the hunter takes his boat and

' visits his traps.

M USK RA TS, Home-made T rap fan—A trap

equal if not better than a steel trap is an old bar-

 

:89

rel. Sink it near the bank of the ditch, where
there are evidences ot the presence of the ani-
mals, to the level of the ground, and half fill it
with water. Put in a couple of shingles, or light
strips of board, to float on the water. Place sweet
apples or carrots cut in small bits in the runs 01
the muskrats, and toll them to the barrel. Put
several pieces upon the floats, inside. The rats
will jump in after their food, and will not be able
to get out. Where they are plenty, several musk-
rats may be taken in a night by this simple trap,
it costs nothing but labor, can be visited at one’s
convenience, and there is plenty of room m it for
a dozen or more at once.

M USKRA T S, T a (aft/l wit/tout T raps.—
It is a mystery to many how muskrats, beavers,
and other animals, are able to stay so long under
water, apparently without breathing, especially
in winter. The way they manage is, they take
in a good breath at startin g, and then remain un-
der water as long as possible. Then they rise
up to the ice and breathe out the air in their
lungs, which remains in a bubble against the
lower part of the ice. The water near the ice is
highly charged with oxygen, which it readily im-
parts to the air breathed out. After a time, this
air is taken back in the lungs, and the animal
again goes under the water, repeating this pro-
cess from time to time. In this way, they can
travel almost any distance, and live almost any
length of time under the ice. The hunter takes
advantage of this habit of the muskrat in the fol-
lowing manner. When the marshes and ponds
where the muskrat abounds are first frozen over,
and theice is thin and clear, on strikinginto their
houses with his hatchet, for the purpose of sett.
ing his trap, he freqently sees a whole family
plunge into the water and swim away under the
ice. Following one for some distance, he sees
him come up to recover his breath, in the manner
above described. After the animal has breathed
against the ice, and before he has time to take his
bubble in again, the hunter strikes with his hat-
chet directly over him, and drives him away from
his breath. In this case he drowns in swimming
a few rods, and the hunter, cutting a hole in the
ice, takes him out.

flIUSKRA TS, T o Skim—The muskrat is
usually skinned by beginning at the head, ripp-
ing from the chin to between the fore legs, and
then stripping the skin off over the body. When
taken off in this manner the skin is stretched on
a bent rod of tough, pliable wood. When skin-
ned from the tail it is stretched on a board.

MUSA’RA T SA’INS, To Tan wit/z #2: Fur
on.—First, for soaking, to 10 gallons of cold soft
water add 8 parts of wheat bran, % pint of old
soap, I ounce of borax; by adding 2 ounces sul~
phuric acid the soaking may be done in one-half
the time. If the hides have not been salted, add
a pint of salt. Green hides should not be soaked
more than 8 or 10 hours. Dry ones should soak
till very soft.

For tan liquor, to lo gallons warm soft water
add % bushel bran; stir well and let stand in a
warm room till it ferments. Then add slowly
2% pounds sulphuric acid; stir all the while.
Mus rat hides should remain in about 4 hours ;
then take out and rub with a fleshing knife—an
old chopping knife with the edge taken off will
do. Then work it over a beam until entirely dry.
' 07' T ER, To T mix—Of all animals, the otter
15 the most cunning; its sense of smell is re-

x9°

markably good. If a person visits an otter slide,
they will leave it immediately, and perhaps not
return for two or three weeks. They appear to
have a natural dread of man, and in their travels,
will scarcely ever follow the creek or river close
by a house. They land some' distance above or
below the dwelling of their dreaded enemy, and
transport their precious coats over land, through
the fields, to the water again. To trap the otter
is almost out of the question. You must take a
lar e sized steel trap, set it, hang it over a fire
an smoke it for two or three hours ; then take a
stick or board, and get into your canoe, (if you
have one,) go to the place most frequented by
them, and place the trap about 3 inches under
water and carefully cover it with leaves, light
trash or grass, which you can fish up from the
bottom of the stream. Be ver careful not to
touch the bank above water, ity you do, it is all
over with you. He can read in the print of boot
heels his death warrant, and he bids adieu to his
haunts, and seeks a peaceful home many miles
distant. In going to your trap, never go nearer
than the opposite side of the stream. If Mr. Otter
should accidentally put on a wristlet, he will make
directl for his den. If the trap is not heavy
enoug to drown him, a weight can be attached
to the chain. '
OTTER, To skin. ——This is done by rip~
ping down the back of each hind leg until the
slits meet in the crotch; skin the body whole;
don’t rip up the belly; put a split stick over the
bone of the tail between the hide and body and
skin in this way, when skinned draw the head
over a stretcher and let it remain until dry.
OWL (lee) To Carri—Owls are very de-
structive to poultry, especially in the breeding
season, , and are much more dangerous than
hawks, in as much as they pay their visits to the
roosts in the night. There is no effectual safe-
ard against their visits unless you have the
ennery made owl-proof. Most farmers make
their roosts under an open shed, or upon the
trees, which are as free to birds of prey as to the
hens. Chickens are very delicate food for young
owls, and sometimes a dozen will be missing
from the perch in a night, and their feathers and
claws be found the next day in a neighboring
owl’s nest. Old hens will be taken and their
heads be eaten off and the carcass be dropped
under the tree, quite too heavy for the owl to
carry off. Not a moment should be lost when
these depredations occur. Tie the dead fowl
upon the limb or the perch where it was accus-
tomed to roost, and shut up the other fowls. The
dead fowl should be tied in a roosting position,
so as to seem alive to the owl. Place a small
steel-trap on the back of the hen and fasten it to
a neighboring limb. The owl will generally make
his appearance the following night, and in
swooping down upon the back of the hen will
find his claws securely fastened in the trap. A
small rat-trap without teeth is the best. The
teeth would be apt to cut off the legs or claws
and release the owl. The trap will often save
many days of hunting a mean, skulking enemy,
who only plunders in the night.
PARC/ffl/[ENYZ How to maker—This article
is manufactured from sheep skins, cleared from
lime. The skin is stretched on a frame where
the flesh is pared off with an iron circular knife;
it is then moistened with a rag, and whiting
spread over it; the workman then, with a large

 

DICTIONARY OFEVERY-DA Y WANTS.

pumice-stone, flat at the bottom, rubs over the
skin, and scours off the flesh. He next goes over
it with the iron instrument as before, and rubs it
carefully with the pumice-stone without chalk;
this serves to smooth the flesh side. He drains
it again by passing over it the iron instrument as
before; he passes it over the wool side, then
stretches it tight on a frame. He now throws
more whiting and sweeps it over with a piece of
wooly lambskin. It is now dried, and taken off '
the frame by cutting it all round. Thus prepared
it is taken out of the Skinner’s hands by the
parchment maker, who, while it is dry, pares it
on a summer (which is a calf-skin stretched on a
frame), with a sharper instrument than that used
by the skinner, who, working it with the arm
from the top to the bottom of the skin, takes
a way about half its substance, which leaves the
parchment finished.

PRESER VIN G A A’IMALS.———A mixture of
equal parts of good commercial glycerine and
water, to every gallon of which is added one
ounce of the crystals of carbolic acid, ,constitutes
a good preserving liquid for all animal substan-
ces. The use of pure glycerine, with about one-
half pint of alcohol, and half a ounce of carbolic
acid added to each gallon, makes an excellent
mixture for preserving the tissues of soft animals,
where it is important to preserve the color as
well as the tissues.

RABBITS, T a Trap—To trap rabbits, take
brass wire, make a noose, large enough for them
to put their head through; then trim a small
tree near their road, fasten the wire to the top,
bend over and fasten by a notch to a peg driven
in the ground; then make a fence of fine brush
a little across their road, leaving a hole to hang
the wire in.—Some use box traps, baited with
sweet apple; also steel traps laid in their roads
and fastened.

RACCOOZV, To Catch—The surest way to
catch them is with a good cur dog. One that
will not give tongue on track but will bark at the
tree. But if you wish to trap them with steel
traps, go to the woods, near a swamp, find a big
log lying in'or near the swamp, set your trap on
the log and then get two old limbs, set one on
each side of the log over the trap, crossing at
the top, forming an x, so that the coon will have
to go under them and over the trap. Bait if you
choose with frogs or chicken. But whether you
bait or not the coon will run the old log if he
comes in the neighborhood. Or on the same

lan you can set a dead-fall.

RA C C 001V SKINS, To Preparer-The skin
of the raccoon should be nailed to boards to dry,
then treated to a paste of I 02. alum; I oz. salt;
about % drachm sulphuric acid ; 2 gills water
and a little wheat bran. It should when dry. be
scraped off with a spoon or other thing as in
case of mink skins. To work the skin soft, in-
stead of nailing it on boards, roll it up and work
it soft.

SAL/VIOJV, Propagation qf. — This salmon,
like several other species of fish, possess the
home sentiment in a marked degree. N o matter
how much it may wander, it will return to-‘the
same river, to its old spawning ground, in the
season of procreation. It will go out of its river,
and swim perha s all over the ocean, and after-
ward return to t e same river. It does not mat-
ter how much storm or turbid water it maybe
obliged to pass through when on the return

HUNTING, ' TRAPPING AND TANNING.

v0 ge, though he may not be able to see clearly
a cot in front of him, he steers surely for his
old home. The bottom of all rivers and creeks
that have water adapted to salmon is dotted with
springs; and these fish spawn and hatch wher-

ever the find springy bottom, particularly at the p

heads 0 streams. The impression is prevalent
that salmon s awn and hatch anywhere, for the
reason that tilley are seen during the breeding
season in many different parts of the river; but
the fact is, they do not spawn in any place unless
there is a spring close by or immediately beneath.
I think the reason that salmon spawn near a
5 ring consists in the' fact, that if the eggs were
eposited in a part of the stream which was free

from spring?! bottom, many of them would be-
come burie in sediment and not hatch out; but
being deposited in the vicinity of or over springy
bottom, they are kept clear from sediment by the
upward burst of the water. In the great lakes
the salmon appears to be strictly a shore fish,
and has never been. caught more than sixty rods
from the shore, except in very rare instances.
By the application of the improved methods of
fish culture our waters can be restocked with
salmon, and so the good old times of good fish,
plenty and chea , may be recovered. In the
matter of artificia production, it may be unneces-
sary to say more than this, that salmon are bred
artificially, and taken care of in precisely the
same way as brook-trout. ‘

SHEEP-SKINS, To prepare for Mair.—
Make a strong lather with hot water, and let it
stand till cold; wash the fresh skin in it, care-
fully squeezing out all the dirt from the wool;
wash it in cold water till all the soap is taken
out. Dissolve a pound each of salt and alum in
two gallons of hot water, and put the skin into
a tub sufficient to cover it; let it soak for twelve
hours, and hang it over a pole to drain. When
well drained, stretch it carefully on a board to
dry, and stretch several times while drying.
Before it is quite dry, 5 rinkle on the flesh side
one ounce each of finey pulverized alum and
salpetre, rubbing it in well. Try if the wool be
firm on the skin; if not, let it remain a da or
two, then rub again with alum; fold the esh
sides together and hang in the shade for two or
three days, turning them over each day till quite
dry. Scrape the flesh side with a blunt knife,
and rub it with pumice or rotten stone.

SHEEP-SKINS, To Tara—Sheepskins,
which are used for a variety of purposes, such
as gloves, book-covers, etc., and which, when
dyed, are converted into mock Morocco leather,
are dressed as follows: They are first to be
soaked in water and handled, to separate all im-
pgrities, which may be scraped off by a blunt
_ ife on a beam. They are then to be hung up
maclose warm room to putrefy. This putre-
faction loosens the wool, and causes the exudation
of an oily and slimy matter, all which are to be
removed by the knife. The skins are now to be
steeped in milk of lime, to harden and thicken;
here they remain for 1 month or 6weeks, accord-
ing to circumstances, and when taken out, they
are to be smoothed on the fleshy side with a
sharp knife. They are now to be steeped in a
bath of bran and water, where they undergo a
partial fermentation, and become thinner in
their substance.

The skins, which are now called pelts, are to
be immersed in a solution of alum and common

 

:9:

salt in water; in the proportion of 120 skins to
glbs. of alum and 5 bs. of salt. They are to
e much agitated in this compound saline bath,
in order to become firm and tough. From this
bath the are to be removed to another, com-
osed o bran and water, where they remain
until quite pliant by a slight fermentation. To
give their upper surfaces a gloss, they are to be
trodden in a wooden tub, with a solution of yolks
of eggs in water, reviously well beaten up.
When this solution as become transparent, it is
a proof that the skins have absorbed the glazing
matter. The pelt may now be said to be con-
verted into leather, which is to be drained from
moisture, hung upon hooks in a warm apartment
to dry, and smoothed over with warm hand-
irons.
SKELE TONS, Preparation ofI—Skulls of
animals may he rapidly prepared by boiling in
water for a few hours. A little potash or lye
added will facilitate the removal of the flesh.

Skeletons may be roughly prepared in the field
by skinning the animal and removing all the vis-
cera, together with as much of the flesh as cpos-
sible. Whenever practicable, they shoul be
allowed to soak a few hours in water to extract
the blood. The bones should then be exposed
to the sun or air until completel dried. Pre-
vious] , however, the brain of arge animals
shoul be removed by separating the skull from
the spine, and extracting the brain through the
large hole in the back of the head. The head
may be cleaned by boiling. In case it becomes
necessary to disjoint a skeleton, care should be
taken to attach a common mark to all the ieces,
especially when more than one indivi ual is
packed in the same box.

Skulls and skeletons may frequently be picked
up, already cleaned by other animals or exposure
to weather. B placing small animals near an
ant’s nest, or in water occupied by tadpoles or
small crustacea, very beautiful skeletons may
often be obtained. The sea-beach sometimes
afi'ords rich treasures in the remains of porpoises,
whales, large fishes, as sharks, and other aquatic
species.

Although, to save time and opportunities in
the field, it is usually necessary to prepare skulls
by boiling in water, as just explained, the process
is sometimes apt to leave the bones colored, or
even somewhat greasy. The best method of
preparing skulls and skeletons for a museum is
un oubtedly, after cutting away the greater mass
of flesh, that of macerating, or allowing them to
remain in ' cold water until the docs ing flesh
separates from the bones. At first, t e water,
as it becomes charged with blood, is poured off
and replacedb fresh; after this is repeated for
a time, the fles becomes bleached, and the bones
may then be suffered to remain as long as neces-
sary (sometimes for weeks), removing the speci-
men from time to time and scraping off the soften-
ing flesh. After this has been all removed and
the bones well scrubbed under water with a stiff
brush, they should be soaked a little longer to
remove any remnant of infiltrated blood. Dur-
ing these operations, care must be taken not to
iqjure or separate any of the ligaments. Shreds
o tendon may be cut off with a sharp knife or
pair of scissors. The ligaments'may then, ac:
cording to Eyton, be converted into a tough,
leathery substance by immersion in a liquid pre-
pared by making a saturated solution of common

I

1’

alum and, when cold, diluting it with an equal
quantity of water, and adding half an ounce of
common salt for every half pound of alum. If
the bones are free from blood, twenty-four hours’
immersion will be suflicient; large birds or other
animals may require nearly a week. When
removed from the solution, the bones must be
washed under a current of water, or in a basin,
and then allowed to dry in any desirable position.

It is important, in preparing skeletons, not to
allow the flesh to dry too soon on the bones, or,
at least, to allow them to soak in water for a time
before drying, as the subsequent operations will
be rendered much easier.

Greasy skulls or bones can be readily cleansed
by immersion in ether for a length of time. The
ether should be kept in a tight jar, and every

recaution taken to prevent undue proximit to a

light or the fire, the vapor being exceeding y ex-
plosive. A simpler method consists in boiling
them in a large quantity of water, having a little
potash added.
. SKLVS 0F ANIMALS, Composition of.—
When fresh, from two-thirds to three-fourths of
the weight of the skin consists of water; and if
dried at 220°, it gradually absorbs water; but
dried at the ordinary temperature, the moisture
in it varies with the amount in the atmosphere.
‘An analysis of a perfectly dried skin gave about
95 per cent. of gelatine tissue; 3 per cent. of
cellular tissue not soluble in water; 1 per cent.
of fat; and halt of I per cent. of mineral
material.

SKINS AND FURS, Coloring and Dyeing.
—Furs are dyed by dealers to suit some fashion,
to conceal defects, or to pass off inferior furs for
better ones. The best way is to brush the dye
over the fur with a good sponge, brushing with
the hair. As a matter of course, you can only
dye them of a darker color than they are, and
retain the handsome lustrous look peculiar to fur.
They maybe bleached, but the process leaves
the fur looking like coarse flax or even hem .
(3111:.) Sulphate of indigo (soluble indigo, so d
by all druggists), is the readiest and best to get
a blue‘with. Furs are never dyed blue for sale,
for that would be spoiling a white fur, but sheep-
skins are. The skin should be dipped several
times in a bath of hot alum water; allowed to
drain, and then dipped into a solution of sulphate
of indigo and water, with a few drops of sulphuric
acid added; this gives a pale blue. Aniline blue
is very fine, and dyeing with it is very simple.
A solution of the color in water is made, a hot
solution, and the skin put in all at once, (if a
part (if the skin is put in first that part will be
darkest, so quick is the absorption of these
colors.) Fancy sheep-skin mats, are colored
blue, red, green, and yellow, and have a ready
sale when they are new—(Black) The best
black is obtained b first dyeing the skin a blue.
Then boil one %v pound gall nuts, powdered,
and % ounce of logwood, in 3 gallons of water.
If the flesh side is wanted blue, while the fur or
wool is another, this decoction must be sponged
on. Get the wool or hair, thoroughly im-
pregnated with this and then add a % pound
copperas, to the dye, and go over the fur
orawool many times with the sponge. The pro-
cess above given will answer without preVious
blueing, but the black is not so brilliant. An-
other “home made” dye, which will answer for
dyeing clothes a black, as well as sheep-skins, is

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

this, just make a bath of 8 ounces of bi~chromate
of potash, 6 ounces alum, 4 ounces fustic; boil in
water enough to cover 5 pounds of yarn, cloth or
a single sheep skin. Make another bath of .4
pounds of logwood, 4 ounces each bar wood and
fustic, or Sounces fustic, same amount of boiling
water, as last; stir the goods well around in the
first bath, keeping the water hot for an hour, then
work it in the second bath the same length of
time. Take them and wring them; then adding
% pound of copperas, to the last bath, put the
goods in again, and give them a good stirring.
This is a good black dye for wool goods (or fur),
but not for silks or- cotton.—(1i’ca'.)—Furs of
course are never (1 ed red, at least in this country.
Sheep skins might be dyed with madder or
cochineal, but in the former case, the skin would
of necessity be boiled with the dye, as that is ne-
cessary in using madder. Cochineal would be
expensive and require much working, while as
brilliant reds and purples may be got from the
aniline colors, dissolved in moderately warm
water, the scum taken off, and skin dipped.
These colors are the cheapest too, as they go
very far. But always have the wool as free from
grease as possible by working in weak hot lye or
hot soapsuds.—( Yellow. )—Can be got on sheep
skins with black oak bark, (quercitron bark) old
fustic, annotto, and Persian (also called French)
berries, The skin should be previously dipped
into a hot bath of alum, cream of tartar or spirit
of tin, about 2 ounces to the gallon. About %
pound of annotto, or I pound of the other articles,
are enough for a single skin. If you wish to use
fustic, be particular to ask for old fustic, as what
is known in the trade as oung fustic, is a dif-
ferent article and gives a iti'erent color. There
is also now an aniline yellow which works like
the other colors.—( Gram.) Dye first blue as
explained above, then pass through a yellow dye,
until you get the shade required. An alum bath,
cream of tartar, or spirits of tin, as above, must
be used before the blue is given.

SKINS AND FUIi’S, Drt’rring and Tanning.
—The cheapest and readiest as well as the best
method of dressing skins for use with the hair
or wool on, is to first scrape off all the fat with a
knife rather blunt on the edge, as not to cut holes
into the hide, upon a round smooth log. The
log for convenience sake should have a couple of
legs in one end, like a trestle ; the other end
should rest upon the ground. After the fat is
well cleaned off, take the brains of the animal,
or the brains of any other recently killed, and
work them thoroughly into the hide. This rend-
ers the hide pliable. Then to preserve from the
ravages of insects scatter on it some powdered
alum and a little saltpeter. If the hair side has
become greasy, a little weak lye will take it out.
Sheepskins may be dressed in the same way, '
though the wool should be cleaned with soap-
suds before using the brains. Another way but
more expensive, is to use a paste made of the
yelk of eggs and whiting instead of brains, work-
ing it in the same way, letting it dry and brushing
off the whiting. Then add the powdered alum
as before. Deerskins and even small calf skins
are often tanned as the process is called with the
hair on for garments. If it is desired to give
the deerskin a yellow color, yellow ocher .or
chrome yellow may be used in combination With
the brains or yelks of eggs, and afterward brushed
ofi'.

II UN TING, TRAPPING AND TANNING.

If it is simply desired to preserve skins until
they are sold, it is only necessar to dry them
thoroughly. If the weather shoul be damp and
warm, salt the flesh side slightl with fine salt.

SKINS, Preservative:far.—— he best material
for the preservation of skins of animals consists
of owdered arsenious acid, or the common ar-
senic of the shops. This may be used in two
ways; either applied in dry powder on the m015t
skin, or, still better, mixed with alcohol or water
to the consistency of molasses, and ut on with
abrush. Some camphor may be 21 (led to the
alcoholic solution, and a little strychine will un~
doubtedly increase its efficacy. There are no
satisfactory substitutes for arsenic; but, In its
entire absence, corrosive sublimate, camphor,
alum, etc., may be employed. Many persons

refer the arsenical soap to the pure arsenic.

his is composed of the following ingredients:
arsenic, I ounce; white soap, Iounce; carbonate
of potash, I dram; water, 6 drums; camphor, 2
drams. Cut the soap into thin slices, and melt
over a slow fire with the water, stirring it con-
tinually; when dissolved, remove from the fire,
and add the potash and arsenic by degrees; d15-
solve the camphor in a little alcohol, and when
the mixture is nearly cold, stir it in.

The proper materials for stuffing out skins will
depend much upon the size of the animal. For
small birds and quadrupeds, cotton will be found
most convenient; for the larger, tow; for those
still larger, dry grass, straw, sawdust, bran, or
other vegetable substances, may be used. VVhat-
ever substance be used, care must be taken to
have it perfectly dry. Under no circumstances
should animal matter, as hair, wool, or feathers,
be employed. ‘

The bills and loral region, as well as the legs
and feet of birds, and the ears, lips, and toes of
mammals, may, as most exposed to the ravages
of insects, be washed with an alcoholic solution
of strychnine applied with a brush to the dried
skin; this will be an almost certain safeguard
against injury.

SKINS (Small), Sink/ting and Curing.—
The market value of a skin is greatly affected
by the care taken in removingit from the animal,
and in drying it. The common way is to tack
the skin to the barn-door and let it remain
stretched until quite dry. The trapper in the
woods, having no such convenience as the barn-
door at hand, is obliged to resort to other me-
thods. One plan is to dry the skin on a hoop.
A skin to be dried in this manner must not be
ripped down the belly, but it is cut from the
lower jaw of the animal to just below its fore-
legs; the lips, eyes, and ears being cut around,
the skin is stripped off, leaving the fur side in-
ward. The hoop consists of a branch of hickory
or other elastic wood, an inch through at the butt.
This is bent and pushed into the skin, which is
drawn tight, and fastened in place by notches in
the bow, drawing the skin of the lip, into these
notches. A much neater way, and one generally
preferred, is to use stretchers of thin wood. As
these have to be carried by the trapper, they are
made of light wood and very thin. They are
three-sixteenth of one inch thick, 20 inches long,
6 inches wide at the larger end, and slightly
tapering. They are rounded to a blunt point at
the lower end, and the edges chamfered. The
skin is drawn over the board, and secured with
Skins stretched by either of these me-

33

 

I93

thods should not be dried in the sun nor by a
fire, but in a cool place where they will be shel-
tered from the rain. N 0 salt or other preserva-
tive is used upon skins intended for the market.

SK UNK S, To T rap—Take an old barrel, and
place it on its side on a triangular stick of wood
about 7 inches high fastening the bait on the
bottom of the barrel. When the skunk goes for
this bait as soon as he passes the centre the barrel
turns up with the skunk, without making any
scent. Then take it b the tail and do with it as
desired. Care must be taken not to place the
barrel too high, as it might throw over and not
remain upright. The more skunks you catch in
the same barrel, the better the trap.

SA’UA’A’ SKINS, T o Deodorixe.—To deodo-
rise skunk skins or articles for clothing scented,
hold them over a fire of red cedar boughs, and
sprinkle with chloride of lime; or wrap them in
green hemlock boughs, when they are to be had,
and in 24 hours they will be cleaned.

SNAKES—Snares are not very certain, but
they are little trouble to make. They must be
set in the paths or runs of the birds it is intended
to take. They are of horse hair or thin copper
wire tied in a running knot. The tendency of
every bird when it finds itself touched about the
head is to push forward. This draws the knot
tighter, until the bird kills itself.

SNIPE S, How to Sfioot surrmrfuL—To the be-
ginner no bird is more puzzling, and, therefore,
more difficult to shoot. Its flight is most un-
certain, most variable, and most irregular—rising
at one time as evenly as a lark, and flying close
to the ground with scarcely the slightest deviation
from a straight line ; at another, springing from
the ground as if fired from agun, and then flying
in a zigzag course to the right or left, and, in-
deed, in every direction; and sometimes, again,
rising to a great hight, and then going straight
away with the rapidity of lightning. And yet,
with all these apparent difficulties, when the
knack is once acquired, it becomes comparatively
easy—indeed, is reduced almost to a certainty:
the great art in this kind of shooting is coolness
and to avoid too much hurry. And, in this, as
in every other kind of shooting, the first sight is
the best: the moment you are “well on” your
bird, the trigger should be ulled. In cross-
shots, fire well before your 1rd. Contrary to-
the usual practice, you should always walk down.
wind; the reason for this is that snipe always.
rise against it. Sometimes snipe are very wild,
and at others will lie until they are almost trod--
den upon. If there be much wind, your best
chance is to “down with them” as soon as they-
rise from the ground, or you have little hope of”
getting a bag.

SOAP, Arsem'cal.—This soap, used for pre-

aring the skins of birds and other small animals,
IS made by taking of carbonate of potassa 12 oz.,
white arsenic 4 oz., white soap 4 oz., lime‘
(slacked in the air) 4 oz., camphor (powdered) ;;
oz., water suflicient to make the whole intoa paste.

SQUIRRELS, T o T rap.—In trapping squir-
rels, set a steel trap on the upper rail of a fence
near where they frequent; set a pole with an ear
of corn, or some other squirrel food fastened to
the end of it, up against the side of the fence,
leaning in such a position as to spring the bait
over t e trap at a hight of six or nine inches;
when the squirrel reaches to get the bait he will
get into the trap. -

194

DICTIONARYOFEVERKDA Y WANTS.

 

SQUIRREL SKI/V, To Ta7z.-—Place them in
a vessel with strong wood ashes. Wet the ashes
till they will make a mortar. Leave them in
about nine days, or until the hair can be pulled
off; take them out and remove the hair. Then
place -them in strong, soft soap six days; then
remove and wash them in cold water till all the
$09. is out of them. When nearly dry, rub them
wit the hands till dry. (With the Izairan.)
Place the hide on a smooth, round sided slab,
made for the purpose, with two legs in one end,
and let the other end rest on the ground; drive
a nail in the upper end to hold the skin from
slipping while fleshiug. Scrape off all the flesh
with a blunt knife, being careful not to tear the
hide. Then take the brains of the squirrel and
work them thoroughly into the skin; this ren-
ders the skin pliable. Then scatter on some
powdered alum and a little saltpeter. Let dry;
then stretch and ‘work it until as pliable as may
be desired.

TANIVING, C/zemirlry of.—The skins of
animals are constituted mainly of glue or gluten.
This is soluble, and the principle derived from
the bark, tannin, or tannic acid, is also to a con-
siderable extent soluble. \Nhen the latter is
allowed to act upon the former, chemical com-
bination takes place, and leather is produced
which is wholly insoluble.

TAN BARK—The tannin properties of bark
mainly consist of the inner lining of the same;
a great saving in transportation would be made
by separating the inner from the outer coating
before sending to market. It is also recommend-
ed that this liber be ground to a very fine powder,
in order that its virtues may be the better extract-
ed, and that it be transported in barrels, to pro-
tect it from moisture, and the better to prevent
the oxygen of the air from acting on the tannin,
and thus converting it into gallic acid.

TANNING, Operation qfi—The first opera-
tion is to soak the hide, as no hide can be pro-
perly tanned unless it has been soaked and broken
on a tieshing beam. If the hide has not been
salted add a little salt and soak it in soft water.
In order to be thoroughly soaked green hides
should'remain in this liquor from 9 to 12 days,
of course the time varies with the thickness of
the hide. The following liquors is used to re-
move hair or wool, viz: IO gallons cold water
(soft), 8 quarts slacked lime, and same quantity
of wood ashes. Soak until the hair or wool will
pull off easily.

As it frequently happens it is desirable to cure
the hide and keep the hair clean, the following
paste should be made, viz: Equal parts of lime
and hard wood ashes (lime should be slacked,)
and made into a paste with soft water. This
should be spread on the flesh side of the hide
and the skin rolled up flesh side in and laced in
a tub just covering it with water. It s ould re-
main 10 days or until the hair will pull out easily,
then scrape off with a knife.

TANNING, 'u-z'tkout the Wool or [Jain—The
skins are first soaked in warm water, scraped on
the flesh side to get of? fat, and hung in a warm
room until they begin to give a slight smell of
hartshorn. The wool or fur then comes off read-
ily. The hair side should now be thoroughly
scraped against the hair. The skin is next soaked
two or three weeks in weak lime water, changing
the water two or three times. Then they are
brought out again, scraped smooth and trimmed.

 

Then rinsed in clean water, then soaked in wheat
bran and water for two or three weeks. After
this they are well stirred around in a pickle of
alum, salt and water. Then they are thrown
again into the bran and water for two or three
days. Then stretched and dried somewhat in a
warm room. After this they are soaked in warm
water and then worked or trodden on in a trough
or pail filled with yelk of eggs, salt, alum, flour
and water, beaten to a froth. They are finally
stretched and dried in an airy room, and last of
all smoothed with a warm smoothing iron. This
makes the beautiful leather we see in gloves,
military trimmings, etc. The proportions for the
egg paste are as follows: 3% pounds salt, 8
pounds alum, 21 pounds wheat flour and yelks
of nine dozen eggs. Make a paste with water,
dissolving first the alum and salt. A little of
this paste is used as wanted with a great deal of
water.

Chamois skins and deer skins not wanted for
gloves, are similarly treated up to the point of
treating with egg paste. Instead of using this
process they are oiled on the hair side with very
clean animal oil, rolled into balls and thrown
into the trough of a fulling mill, well beaten two
or three hours, aired, re-oiled, beaten again and
the process repeated a third time. They are
then put into a warm room until they begin to
give out a decided smell, then scoured in weak
lye to take out superfluous grease. Here the
intention is merely to get a thick felt-like skin of
good color, a nicely grained surface is not re-
quired as in gloves. The skins are finally rinsed,
wrung out, stretched and dried, and when nearly
dry slightly rubbed with a smooth, hard round
stick.

These are the fine processes. A dried skin
oiled so as to become smooth and pliable will
retain the hair or wool a considerable time. Or
it may be made more durable where the color of
the flesh side is no object by scraping, washing
in soap suds and then putting directly into the
tan pit. For ordinary purposes rabbit, squirrel
and other small skins can be efficiently preserved
with the hair by the application of powdered
alum and fine salt, put on them when fresh, or if
not fresh by dampening them first. Squirrel
skins when wanted without the hair will tan very
well in wheat bran tea, the fat and hair having
been previously removed by soaking in lime water
and scraping. Old tea leaves afford tannin
enough for small skins but they give a color not
nearly so pleasant as bran. Almost any of the
barks afford tannin enough for small skins, wil-
low, pine, poplar, hemlock of course, sumach, etc.

T A NZVI (VG, wit/zoutBar/c or [Mineral astring-
entr.-—-The astringent liquor is composed of
water, 17 gallons; aleppo galls % 1b.; Bengal
catechu, 1% oz. and 5 lbs. of tormentil, or sept-
foil root. Powder the ingredients, and boil in the
water I hour; when cool, put in the skins (which
must be prepared by being plunged into a pre-
paration of bran and water for 2 days previously);
handle them frequently during the first 3 days,
let them alone the next 3 days, then handle three
or four times in one day; let them lie undisturbed
for 25 days more, when the process will be com-
plete. —- (Canadian Process.) ——The Canadians
make four liquors in using the japonica. The
first liquor is made by dissolving, for 20 sides of
upper, I 5 lbs. of tetra japonica in sufficient
water to cover the upper, bein'g tanned. The

HUNTING, TRAPPING AND TANNING.

second 1i uor contains the same amount pf japo-
nica, and<g lbs. of saltpetre also. The third con-
tains 20 lbs. of japonica, and 4% lbs. of alum.
The fourth 1i uor contains only 15 lbs. of Japo-
nica, and I y? lbs. of sulphuric acid; and the
leather remains 4 days in each liquor for up r;
and for sole the quantities and time are 0th
doubled. They count 50 calf skins in place of
20 sides of upper, but let them lie in each hquor
only 3 days.

T ANNLVG, Currier: Size fox—Take 'of
sizing, I quart; soft-soap, I gill; stuffing, I gill;
sweet milk, % pt.: boil the sizing in water to a

roper conSIstence, strain, and add the other
ingredients; and, when thoroughly mixed, it is
ready for use.

T ANNIN G, Currier: Partefir.—First Coat.
Take of water, 2 quarts; flour, % pint; Castile
soap, I 02.: make into paste. Second Coat.
Take of first paste, % pt.; gum-tragacanth, _1

'11; water, I pt.: mix all together. This Wlll
fiiiish eighteen sides of upper.

TANNING, Currier: Skirtingfor.——.—This is
for finishing skirting and the flesh of harness
leather, in imitation of oak-tanning. Take of
chrome yellow, )4 11).; yellow ochre, I 1b.; cream
of tartar, I 02.; soda, 12 02.; paste, 5 qts.: mix
Well. This will finis twelve sides. For the
Grain to imz'z‘ate Oak T run—Take of chrome yel-
low, % 1b.; yellow ochre, % 1b.; cream of tartar,
I 02.; soda, I 02.; paste, 2 qts.; spirits ofturpen-
tine, I pt.: mix well. This will finish twelve sides.

T RA PPERS, Hint: t0.——( Valuaéle warms
Wortfikr: Skins.) The skins of animals trapped
are always valued higher than those shot, as shot
not only make holes, but frequently plow along
the skin making furrows as well as shaving off
the fur. To realize the utmost for skins they
must be taken care of, and also cleaned and pre-
pared roperly. Newhouse gives these general
rules erived from experience.

I. Be careful to visit your traps often enough,
so that the skin will not have time to get tainted.

2. As soon as possible after an animal is dead
and dry, attend to the skinning and curing.

3. Scrape off all superfluous flesh and fat, and
be careful not to go so deep as to cut the fiber of
the skin. .

4. Never dry 3. skin by the fire or in the sun,
but in a cool, shady place, sheltered from rain.
If you use a barn door for a stretcher (as boys
sometimes do), nail the skin on the inside of the
door.

5. Never use “preparations” of any kind in
curing skins, nor even wash them in water, but
simply stretch and dry them as they are taken
from the animal.

TRAPPING, Season firs—All furs are best
in winter; but trapping may be carried on to ad-
vantage for at least six months in the yeal, i. c.
any time between the first of October and the
middle of April. There is a period in the warm
season, say from the first of May to the middle
of September, when trapping is out of the
question, as furs are worthless. The most trap-

ing is done late in the fall and early in the spring.

e reason why furs become worthless in summer
is, that all fur-bearing animals shed their coats,
or at least lose the finest and thickest part of

their fur as warm weather approaches, and have.

a. new growth of it in the fa l to protect them in
~ Winter. This whole process is indicated in the
use of the muskrat, and some other animals, by

 

I95

the color of the inside part of the skin. As sum-
mer approaches, it becomes brown and dark.
That is a sign that the. best fur is gone. Alter-
ward it grows light-colored, and in winter when
the fur is in the best condition it is altogether
white. When the pelt is white it is called prime
by the fur-dealers. The fur is then glossy, thick,
and of the richest color, and the tails of such
animals as the mink, marten, and fisher are full
and heavy. Beavers and muskrats are not tho-
roughly prime till about the middle of winter.
Other animals are prime about the first of N o-
vember. There is probably some variation with
the latitude, of the exact period at which furs be-
come prime, the more northern being a little in
advance. ’l‘rappers are liable to begin trapping
too early in the season, consequently much poor
fur is caught, which must be sold at low prices,
and is unprofitable to the trapper, the fur-buyer
and the manufacturer.

T RAPS, SE TTIZVG.—The first thing to se-
cure in setting your trap, is that the animal will
go to it, second, that it shall catch him when he
comes, and last that he shall not be able to get
away, when once caught. Next it is necessary
always to smoke the trap in burning hemlock,
cedar, or juniper boughs, dipped in the blood of
pigs that have just been killed, or letting the
blood of a chicken run over it, dipping it in
melted fat or rubbing it while warm with a ball
of bees-wax. But remember that in baiting a
rabbit trap your hands must never be greasy;
there is nothing a rabbit will so quickly avoid as
grease of any kind. -

Now having arranged this, your next business
must be to induce your animal not to be shy. If
you are carrying on trapping in wild woods the
surrounding scenery is generally wild enough,
but near at home, on the farm care must be taken
to take away the appearance of preparation, and
yet preparation must be made. A cautious ani-
mal such as a fox or raccoon, should be invited
to come several times before the trap is set; ar-
range a place with sawdust, hay-seed, chafi‘, and
chicken feathers, several inches deep, scatter
through it food adapted to the animal intended to
becaught,olfal of chickens,bones, and bit of waste
meat, fish heads, etc., if for fox; nubbins of corn,
etc., for coon, leave it and when you have cer-
tain indications, set your trap (free from the iron
smell) and cover with the material you have
used, scattering bits of food therein as before,
the creature you are after, will probabl be there
the next morning, if you have properly secured
your trap. Another way is to set your tra under
water two or three inches with the bait a ove it,
hung upon a sapling or spile so as to make the
animal stand upon the trap to get it, or to plant
your trap well covered at the foot of an old stump,
by the side of a sapling, by the side of a barn,
hay-stack, smoke house, pig pen, but always
covering the trap and hanging the bait ab0ve it,
so as to make the animal step into it.

Last of all you must secure the trap by a
weight of wood or metal, by a bent sapling
that pulls it up into the air, or by a weight
or stick that will pull it into the water and
drown it. A short light chain ought to be
attached to every trap of iron, as animals gnaw
with ease through anything like rope or hide. If
you are catching animals only to get rid of a nui-
sance, no spring is necessary, but if for fur, you
want to hoist the land animal into the air where

195

they cannot damage themselves, and if water
animals, on want to drown them quick, the for-
mer resu t is attained by bending over a sapling
with a stout cord attached containing the bait, a
portion of the cord continues down to the trap
and is fastened slightly by a notched peg driven
into the ground, when the animal is caught its
struggles free the cord, and the sapling springs
back and hoists it into the air. If your trap is
set in water it may be fastened by a ring at the
end of the chain to a pole running out into deep
water, the pole should be fastened into its posi-
tion and securely anchored, or the whole thing
may be rolled far down the stream when you
come to look for it; the struggles of the animal
caught cause the ring to go farther and farther
down the stick and the weight of the trap finally
drowns the animal.

T RA PS, Baiting—Strong smelling substan-
ces are the best baits, other things being equal;
and if the smell of the kind of animal to be caught
can be given to the bait in any way, it will be
sure to lure the animal to the trap. If a fox
skin be dragged along the ground in the direction
of the tfap, every fox striking the trail will follow
it up. So it is with other animals. Beaver bait
is made thus: The castor or bark stone, which
is found in the male beaver, is pressed from the
bladder-like bag which contains it into a vial
with a wide mouth. Five or six of these stones
are taken, and a powdered nutmeg, a dozen or
more cloves, a teas oonful of ground cinnamon,
all mixed with alco 01 or whisky until it is about
as thick as good syrup, cork the bottle and keep
three or four days. In using this it should be
employed for attracting the beaver toward the
trap, but not be put into it. For the beaver has
a habit when he smells the bark stone of another
beaver of covering it with leaves and twigs and
then voiding his own bark-stone or scent upon
it. Doing this, he would be more likely to cover
the trap than to be caught. What the object of
this is is of course unknown; but it is similar to
the voiding of urine by dogs, foxes and wolves
in spots already used by another animal for the
same purpose.

But the beavers will take any fresh root or
sapling for bait. The muskrat will take carrots,
potatoes, apples, or any similar food. All of the
weasel tribe—the mink, sable, fisher, skunk, or-
dinary Weasel, etc., will take fish, fresh or salt.
When using the latter, it should be toasted, so
as to emit more smell. Old hunters, to get a
good “fish smell,” cut up any small fish, put the
pieces into a bottle, and let it be in as warm a
place as convenient for several days. As it de-
cays the fish oil rises, and this oil they put on
any bait the happen to have. All of the weasel
tribe, as well as foxes and wolves, are fond qf
any kind of fowl. The heads and legs and any
other waste parts of both wild and domestic fowl
are the best of bait. Even feathers scattered
around the tra make the thing more attractive
and real. A little musk mixed with assafoetida,
or mixed like the bark-stone, or even a muskrat
skin, fixed so as to drag alon the ground toward
a tra , will make most of t is tribe, as well as
the Sher, follow it up to the trail. A strong

iece of codfish/ will do the same. Some old
unters just keep one of these trail-bags tied by
a string to their belt and let it drag as they go
from trap to tra . This multiplies their chances
of having some ' g in them next morning. An~

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

other secret of old hunters is to take the parts

peculiar to the sex of the female wolf, fox or dog,

and reserve it in alcohol or whisky for use. A.
sm iece of this is used in drawing either fox
or we to traps, and proves irresistible to the
male, and no matter from which species it is
taken, it proves alike attractive to either fox or
wolf. It is not used as a bait that is as food, but
as the trail or drag is to bring the animal toward
the trap. The trap may be baited as usual, or

this substance may be suspended over the trap;

in trying to reach it to smell at it, the animal
steps into the trap. Foxes, wolves and all the

weasel tribe will take flesh and fish of any kind

with this exception; foxes, wolves (and dogs)

will not eat their own kind; weasels of every
kind will. Toasted cheese forms a strong allure~[
ment for a fox. The bear will go anywhere for
honey, and it is usual to smear this over a piece

of pork or beef, or even upon an ear of corn, or
just to smear it on the tree or stump near where
the trap is set. The skunk considers mice a
dainty, and raccoons will travel far for frogs, fish
(broiled), salt or fresh; but an ear of corn is not

disdained by him. Squirrels take Indian corn,

nuts, etc. Woodchucks will take roots, corn and
bread. Wild cats take flesh or fish of any kind.

In the northwest they are also taken with the

bark-stone bate previously described. In arrang-

ing traps for small birds hemp-seed will be found
more attractive than any other. Buckwheat is per-
haps more attractive for quails than any other grain.

The partridge—also called pheasant in some places
—may be caught with an apple once in a hundred
years. We think even that unlikely. Otters,

also, can be caught with the various grains—the
small grains being best.

T RAP SPRINGS, T a T emferr—See “Work-
ers in Metals” department.

T RA P, Dead Fat/L—The simplest dead fall is
made with one log, heavy enough to hold the
creature which it is proposed to trap. Cut a
notch into a stump, or drive a short stake with
a notch in it, or fasten the log with a withe to a
stake or sapling, or in any case allow it a hinge-
like motion. This is done with the log lying on,
the ground. Raise one end and support it upon
a figure four, baited of course (see description
hereafter). The bait stick of the figure four must
be at right angles with the log, and enclosed with
stakes or otherwise to allow the animal to ap-
proach only from one side, and obliging it to
stand across the line in which the log would fall.
Another way is to arrange two logs, one to fall on
the other in the same way. Stakes may be driven
at the side, if found necessary, to insure one log
falling on top of the other.

T Ir’A P, FA RIVERS, For Jilin/E, Maxis,
Skunkr, eta—Take boards % inch thick, and
makOa. box the two sides and top 12 inches long,
with one end closed; the size of the box inside
being 4 inches square. A steel spring is fastened
on the closed end of the box, to which is fastened
a square ring at its extremity, through which
the game thrusts its head to reach the bait at one
end of a catch, which holds the ring depressed
and held by a wire running from the front end of
the trap to the catch on the upper extremity of
the bait hook. One who has tried it extensively
says: “This is the best trap for skunks in the
world, I believe. I have used many different
kinds, but none work so well as this. You can
set it at the hole in a wall or fence. It is sure fire.”

 

 

INKS AND BLACKING.

' I97

 

TRAP, Fz' re Faun—The “figure four”
which forms t e basis in the construction of a
large variety of traps, is made of three sticks—
an upright, a diagonal iece and the trigger or
horizontal piece. The rst maybe made sa 8
inches in length, the upper end being whittle to
a thick edge—not a point. The horizontal piece
or trigger, about 10 inches long and square, has
a notch on one side, about 7 inches from one end.
On the upper face of the trigger, about 6% in~
ches from the side notch, is another notch. The
diagonal has both ends beveled or brought to a
wide edge, and a notch cut near one end. In
setting up the figure hold the perpendicular up,
fit the trigger to its side, then adjust the notch
in the diagonal to the perpendicular, and then
insert the other end of the diagonal in the notch
near the end of the trigger. Now let the lid of
the trap or the fall, whatever it may be, rest on
the end of the diagonal immediately over the
trap; this makes the figure {our stand firmly, yet
ready to fall at a very slight pull upon the trig-
ger, to which the bait is fastened—the trigger
sittending some 3 inches from the perpendic-

ar.

T RAP, Siam—Take a large sieve and prop
it up with a stick to the middle of which one end
of a piece of string is tied. Strew some crumbs
of bread or seeds under the trap, and also a few
near by, and taking the other end of the string in
your hand, retire and conceal yourself at some
distance until the birds are attracted by the bait.
As soon as you perceive them feeding directly
under the trap, jerk the string quickly and {he
sieve falls. This is the simplest of boy’s traps,
but answers very well when there is time to spare.
When a chicken is wanted about the farm-house,
it is often time saved to catch it in this way.

T RAP, QuaiL—A quail trap may be any kind
of coop, supported by a figure 4. The spindle of
the figure must either be so made as to hold
grain, or, what is better, some grains of wheat
or buckwheat are strung over a strong thread
with the aid of a needle and,tied to the spindle.
Quails and prairie hens easily enter a trap when
the ground is covered with snow. At other times
it is rather difficult to catch them.

T RAP, W'ild T uréey.—A wild turkey trap is
made by first digging a ditch; then over one end
is built a rude structure of logs, covered at the
top. The structure should not be tight, but, of
course, sufficiently close not to let the birds
through. Indian corn is scattered about and in
the ditch, and in the inside of the pen. The
turkeys follow up corn in the ditch, and emerge
from it on the inside. Once there, the silly

INKS AND

BLACKING.

BLA CKING, Preliminary remarks on mak-
ing—To roduce a first-rate article of blacking
it is abso utely necessary that the ingredients be
of the best quality, and used in the proper pro-
portions; and that the order of their admixture,
and the general manipulations, be conducted,

 

birds never think of descending into the ditch,
but walk round and round the pen, looking
through the chinks of the logs for escape that way.
To make all sure, the ditch should end about the
center of the pen, and a bridge of sticks, grass
and earth should be built over the ditch, just
inside of the pen, and close to the logs. Other-
wise in going around the bird might step inside
the ditch, and once there, it would follow'the
light and thereby reach the outside of the pen.

T R0 U T BREEDING—The experience of
a breeder on Long Island is as follows: He has
put in use a race with a floor of slats; and upon
the slats a layer of gravel of the size preferred
by the fish for spawning ground. The water is
admitted from a powerful spring “piped” to the
spot, (and from other springs in the bottom,)
beneath the floor of slats, and wells up with
great uniformity through the entire mass of
gravel, so that everywhere there is an upward
rising, yet very gentle, current. This race is
290 feet in length, varying from 4 to 8 feet in
width; the water standing from 12 to [3 inches
deep over the gravel, and having a very percep-
tible flow at the outlet where the race is widest.
Below the race is the nursery, a low building,
100 feet in length by 10 in width, made of rough
boards, and entirely occupied by the water-course
and a narrow walk. From the nursery the water
flows through “ the, brook,” a boarded, roofed,
and gravelled channel, 500 feet long, to its out~
let into the main pond. This is a beautiful sheet
of the purest water, long and narrow, doubling
u on itself, and filled with breeding trout, some
of) which are of very large size. The parent
trout seek the race of their own accord and make
hardly any nests in this beautifully clean and.
well-prepared bed, but lay indiscriminately any-
where. The eggs disappear among the gravel,
and are not touched. The old fish return to the
pond, and, after the laying season, are shut off.
The race is roofed in its entire length, the roof
being movable, and not entirely excluding the
light. The feeding of the fry takes place at
certain spots in the race, and here the largest
quantity of excrement accumulates. The upward
flowing water makes it easy to collect and remove
this, but the fry are chiefly fed in the nursery.

VELL Ufll, T a main—This is a species of
parchment made of the skins of abortives. or
sucking calves; it has a much finer grain, and is
white and smoother than parchment, but is
prepared in the same manner, except its not be-
ing passed through the lime-pit. The article is
used for binding superior books, and covering of
drum heads. ’

BLACKING.

under ordinary circumstances, in the manner
described in the first of the following formulas.
The proportions of the molasses and the oil, the
most expensive of. the ingredients should not be
stinted; and, indeed, that of the latter may be
safely increased in quantity, without materially
affecting the polish, and with manifest advantage
as far as the softness and durability of the leather

198 DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DA Y WANTS.

 

to which it is applied, is concerned. The manip-
ulations required in the manufacture of both paste
blacking and liquid blacking, are essentially the
same; the difference between the two articles,
when the same materials are used, depending
entirely on the quantity of liquid added. Thus,
by diluting paste blacking with water, vinegar,
or beer bottoms, it may be converted into liquid
blacking of a nearly similar quality; and, by
using less fluid matter, the ingredients of liquid
blacking will produce paste blacking. One
thing must, however, be observed, and that is,
that the ivory-black used for liquid blacking
should be reduced to a much finer powder than
for paste blacking; as, if this is not attended to,
it is apt to settle at the bottom, and to be with
difficulty again diffused through the liquid. I’er-
sons who object to the use of blacking contain-
ing oil of vitroil, will find recipes in which it is
omitted below. The vitriol, however, greatly

. contributes to promote the shining properties of

the blacking; and in small quantities, or in the
proper ;proportion, is not so injurious to the
eather as some persons have represented; as it
wholly unites itself to the lime of the bone-
phosphate contained in the ivory -black, and is
thus neutralized, insoluble sulphate of lime, and
an acid-phosphate, or super-phosphate, being
formed. It is the latter that gives the acidity to
awell made sample of blacking, and not the
sulphuric acid originally added to it. In this
way, the larger portion of the ivory-black is
reduced to a state of extremely minute division,
and with the other ingredients forms a strongly
adhesive paste, which clings to the surface of
the leather, and is susceptible of receiving a
high polish by friction when in a scarcely dry
state. This is the reason why lamp-black should
never be employed for blacking to the exclusion
of the necessary proportion of bone-black, as it
has no earthl base to absorb or neutralize the
acid, which, i left in a free state, would prove
very hurtful to the leather. Oil of vitriol is now
employed in the manufacture of all the more
celebrated and expensive blackings; and that,
simply because no other substance is known so
efi‘icient, and so little injurious to the leather. In
the common blackings of Germany, hydrochloric
acid is often used to the entire exclusion of oil of
vitriol; but blacking so pre ared possesses
several disadvantages from w ich the better
qualities are free. In the best German blackings
only a small ortion of this acid is used. The
addition of w ite of egg, isinglass, and similar
articles to blacking, always roves injurious, as
they tend to stiffen the leat ier, and to make it
crack, without at all improving its polishing
properties. Even gum-arabic, in quantity, is on
this account, objectionable. Oil has an opposite
tendency, and, as already stated, the quantity
commonly used may be increased with advantage.
Resin oil should be particularly avoided.

The only improvement that has been in-
troduced in the manufacture of blacking, since
the early days of the celebrated Day & Martin,
is, a few hours after the conclusion of the mixture
of the ingredients, but before adding the vinegar,
if any, to simmer the whole very gently, for
about 8 or Io minutes, observing to stir it as-
siduously all the time. The fire must then be
withdrawn, and the pan covered over until it is
finite cold, when half an hour’s lusty stirring will

nish the process. In this way a degree of

 

maturity and brilliancy will be imparted to the

roduct, which without the application of heat,
it would take months to acquire, if indeed it ever
reached it. .

As it is generally more convenient to measure
than to weigh liquids, it may be useful to remem.
her that, in round numbers: '

1 gal. of oil weighs 9% pounds.

I “ sour beer “ 10% “ '

I “ vinegar “ IO “

I “ water
We may here further remark that the blackings
of different houses vary considerably in some of
their properties; as also do those of even the
same maker by age. Some blackings dry off rap-
idly, and give a very brilliant polish with very
little labor; while others take a little longer to
dry off, and somewhat more labor to polish them.
The former are best adapted to hasty use, and
when a very brilliant surface is desired; the lat-
ter, when depth of polish, without extreme bril-
liancy, satisfies the wearer. The first meets best
the requirements of fashionable life; the last,
those of the middle classes and pedestrians ex-
posed to dirt, mud, and the various vicissitudes
of travelling and weather. Time, however,
equalizes the qualities of these two classes.
Blackings which are crude, moist, and oily, lose
these properties, and become drier and more
brilliant by age. The practice of several of the
first-class London boot and shoemakers is never
to use a blacking which they have not had in their
stock at least a twelvemonth.

Blacking, both liquid and paste, should be
stored in a cool and moderately dry cellar; and
when in use should be kept corked or otherwise
excluded from the air. Exposure or desiccation
destroys most of its best qualities.

A UTOfl/A TIC or Self—Shining—l. Gurn-
arabic, 4 02.; molasses or coarse brown sugar,
1% 02.; good black ink, % pint; strong vinegar,
2 02. ; rectified spirit of wine and sweet oil, of
each I 02.; dissolve the gum in the ink, add the
oil, and rub them in a mortar, or shake them
together for some time, until they are thoroughly
united; then add the vinegar, and lastly, the
spirits.

2. Lamp-black, % 02.; indigo in fine powder,
I dr.; put them in a mortar, or basin, and rub
them with sufficient mucilage (made by dissolv-
ing 4 02. of gum in % pint of strong vinegar) to
form a thin paste; add very gradually, of sweet
oil, I 02.; and triturate until their union is com-
plete, adding toward the end the rest of the mu-
cilage; then further add of molasses, 1% 02.;
and afterward, successively, of strong vinegar, 2
02.; rectified spirit, I 02. ; lastly, bottle for use.

3. Mix the whites of 2 eggs with a tablespoon-
ful of spirit of wine, 2 large lumps of sugar crush-
ed, and sufficient finely powdered ivory-black to
give the required color and thickness, avoiding
excess.

The above are chiefly used for dress boots and
shoes. The first two are applied to the leather
with the tip of the finger, or a sponge, and-then
allowed to dry out of the dust. The third 15
commonly laid on with a sponge or soft brush,
and when almost dry or hard may have its polish
hightened with a brush or soft rubber, after
which it is left for a few hours to harden. It may
also be used to revive the faded black leather
seats and backs of old chairs. They all possess
great brilliancy for a time; but are only adapted

 

INK S AND BLA CKIN G.

to clean, dry weather, or indoor use. . They
should all be applied to the leather as thinly as
possible, as otherwise they soon crack off.
BALLS, H£ZZ.—-I. Mutton suet, 4 02., bees’-
wax, I 02., sweet oil, I 02., oil of turpentine, %
02., melt and add gum Arabic, I 02., lamp black,

02.

’42. Bees’-wax, 8 02., tallow, I 02., melt and
add powdered gum Arabic, I 02., lamp black.to
color. Used by shoemakers, and to copy in-
scriptions, or raised patterns, by lying paper on
the pattern and rubbing the ball on it.

CAOUTCHOUC, Barking—18 ounces of
caoutchouc are to be dissolved in about 9 pounds
of hot rape oil. To this solution 60 pounds of
fine ivory black and 45. pounds of molasses are
to be added, along with 1 pound of finely-powder-
ed gum arabic, previously dissolved in 20 gallons
of vinegar. These mixed ingredients are to be
finely triturated in a paint-mill, till the mixture
becomes perfectly smooth. To this varnish I2
pounds of sulphuric acid are to be now added, in
small successive quantities, with powerful stirr-
ing for half an hour; at the end of which time, 3
pounds of finely-ground gum arabic are added;
after which the stirring is repeated half an hour,
for I4 days longer, when the liquid blacking is
ready for use. In making the paste blacking,
the patentees rescribe the above quantity of
India-rubber oi , ivory black, molasses, and gum
arabic-the latter being dissolved in only I2
pounds of vinegar. These ingredients are to be
well mixed and than ground together in a mill,
till they form a perfectly smooth paste. To this
paste 12 pounds of sulphuric acid are to be added
in small quantities at a time, with powerful stirr-
ing, which is to be continued half an hour after
the last portion of the acid has been introduced.
Ready for use in seven da 5.

FOR MOROCCO SHOES—Pound some
black sealing wax, and put in a bottle with half a
pint of alcohol ; shake it frequently, and when it is
dissolved, you may rub it on Morocco shoes
when they are scaled or defaced, and they will
look almost like new; dry it on in the sun.

GERMAN Blacking.—Ivory-black, I part;
molasses, % part; sweet oil, M; art; mix, as
before; then stir in a mixture ofp hydrochloric
acid, %; part; oil of vitriol, % part each separat»
ely diluted with twice its weight of water before
mixing them. This forms the ordinary paste
blacking of Germany, according to Liebig.

GRAIJV-SIDE Blacéing.—Take a barreland
put into it quite a quantity of old iron, cast or
wrought, then fill nearly full of soft water, and
add I pt. of oil of vitriol; stir it up well, and in
a month or two you have just as good blacking
for the grain-side, as could be made by using
vinegar in place of water.

HARNESS Barking—I. Good glue or ge-
latine, 4 02.; gum arabic, 3 02.; water, % pint;
dissolve by heat; add of molasses, 5 02.; ivory-
black in very fine powder, 5 02. ; and gently
evaporate, with constant trituration, until of a
proper consistence when cold; when nearly cold
put it in bottles, and cork them down. For use,
the bottle may be warmed a little to thin it, it
necessary. Does not resist the wet.--2. Mutton
suet, 2 02.; bees-wax pure, 6 02.; soft 504), 2
02.; lamp-black, 2% 02.; indigo (in fine powder)
% 02. ; when thoroughly incorporated, further
a‘dd of oil of turpentine )4 pint; and pour it into
pots or tins. Waterproof—3. Bees-wax, I 1b.;

 

I99

soft soap, 6 02.; ivory-black % lb. ; Prussian
blue, I 02.; round in linseed oil, 2 02.; oil of
turpentine, '2 pint; to be mixed, etc., as before.
Waterproof—4. (English Water froojl) Take
3 ounces turpentine, 2 ounces white wax, to be
dissolved together over a slow fire; then add I
ounce of ivory-black and I dram of indigo, to
be well pulverized and mixed together. When
the wax and the turpentine are dissolved, add the ‘
ivory-black and the indigo, and stir till cold.
Apply very thin; brush afterward, and it will
give a beautiful polish.-—5. A good blacking is
made of 4 ounces of hog’s lard, 16 ounces of
neat’s-foot oil, 4ounces ofyellow wax, 20 ounces‘
of ivory black, I6 ounces of brown sugar, and I6
ounces of water. Heat the whole to boiling, and
stir it until it becomes cool enough to handle,
then roll it into balls about two inches in dia-
meter.—6. A cheap and good blacking can be
made as follows: Soften two pounds of glue in
one pint of water, dissolve two pounds of soap
(castile is the best, but most expensive) in one
part of warm water; after the glue has become
thoroughly soaked, cook it in a glue-kettle, and
then turn it into a large pot; place the pot over
a hot fire and pour in the soap-water, slowly
stirring until all is well mixed; then add a half-
pound of yellow wax cut in slices. Let the mass
boil until the wax becomes melted, then add half
a fpint of neat’s-foot oil and a sufficient quantity
0 lampblack to give it color; let it boil a few
minutes, and it will be fit for use.——7. When a
harness has become soiled, it can be restored by
the use of the Franc/z polar/2. The ingredients
are 4% pounds stearine, 6% pounds turpentine,
and 3 ounces of coloring or ivory black. Beat the
stearine out to‘thin sheets with a mallet, then
mix it with the turpentine, and subject it to a
water bath. While heating, it must be stirred
continually; the coloring matter is thrown in
after the mass has become thoroughly heated. It
is thrown into another pot and stirred until it is
cool and thick ; if not stirred, the mass will crys-
tallize'and the parts become separated. When
used, it must be warmed, and a small quantity
rubbed on the leather with a cloth ; use but little

‘at a time and put on very thin. After it has par-

tially dried, rub with a silk cloth, and a polish
will beproduced equal to that of newly varnished
leather. This polish is also good for carriage-
tops, straps, etc., and will in no way injure the
leather.

INDIA RUBBER LIQUID, Barking.—
Take of India rubber (in small pieces), I8 02.;
hot rape oil, 9 lb. (say I gal.); dissolve; to the
solution add of ivory black (in very fine Rowder),
60 1b.; molasses 45 1b.; mix thoroughly; further
add of gum-arabic, I 1b., dissolved in vinegar
(No. 24), 20 gal. ; reduce the whole to a perfect
state of smoothness and admixture by trituration
in a paint mill; throw the compound into a
wooden vessel, and add, very gradually, of sul-
phuric acid, 12 1b.; continue the stirring for %
hour, repeating it daily for 14. days ; then add of
gum-arabic (in fine powder), 3 1b.; again mix
well, and repeat the stirring for % an hour daily
for 14 days longer, when the liquid blacking will
be ready for use, or for bottling. The quality is
very excellent; but this, probably, does not de-
pend on the presence of India rubber, but on the
general correctness of the proportions, and the
care and completeness with which they are
mixed.

MO

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

INDIA RUBBER PASTE, Blur/king.—
Of India rubber, oil, ivor -black, molasses, and
gum-arabic, the same as or their liquid blacking
(see above)‘, but dissolving the last in only 12
pounds, say 5 quarts, instead of 20 gals. of vin-
egar; grinding to a smooth paste in a color-mill,
and then adding of oil of vitriol, 12 lbs., as be-
fore. The mass is to be stirred daily for a week,
when it. will be fit for use, or potting.

LEA TIIER SEA TS, Blarlez'ng fan—Beat
well the yolks of two eggs and the white of one ;
mix a table-spoonful of gin and a tea-spoonful of
sugar, thicken it with ivory-black, add it to the
eggs, and use as common blacking; the seats or
cushions being left a day or two to harden. This
is good for dress boots and shoes.

LIQUID FLA CIx’ING.——I. Take of bone-
black (commercial ivory-black) 16 parts; molas-
ses, 12 parts; oil of vitriol, 3 parts; sperm oil, 2
parts ; gum-arabic, I part; strong vinegar, or
sour beer, 48 to 50 parts ; (all by weight ;) place
the ‘bone-black’ in a capacious wooden, stone~
ware, or enameled iron vessel, (avoid vessels of
metal only), add the oil, and rub them well to-
gether ; next gradually add the molasses, and
actively and patiently grind or rub the mass,
after each addition, until the oil is perfectly killed,
and finally for some time afterward, to insure
complete admixture; then cautiously dilute the
vitriol with about three times its bulk of water,
and add it in separate portions, to the former
mixture, observing to stir the whole together, as
rapidly as possible, on each addition of the acid,
and for some minutes after the whole is added,
so as to render the mass thoroughly smooth and
homogeneous; let it stand, covered over, for two
or three days, or longer, stirring it, in the mean
time, for 15 or 20 minutes daily; lastly, having
dissolved the gum in the vinegar, add the solution
gradually to the rest, and stir the whole together
briskly for some time, and again daily for 3 or 4
days. It may be further diluted,- at will, with a
little more vinegar or beer, or with water; but
unnecessary or excessive dilution should be
avoided, as the richness and quality of the black—
ing becomes proportionately reduced. If all the
ingredients (except the vitriol) be made hot be-
fore admixture, the shining quality of the pro-
duct will be greatly improved, and the process
ma be shortened—2. Ivory-black, 16 parts ;
mo asses, 8 parts ; oil of yitriol, 4 parts ; (diluted
with) water, 2 parts ; qil, 2 parts; gum-arabic, 1
part ; soft water (for the final dilution, instead of
vinegar), 64 parts; mixed, etc., as before. Ex-
cellent.—3. As the last ; but taking only 6 parts
of molasses, 1 part of oil, and omitting the gum-
arabic. ‘ Good. A commoner article of liquid
blacking does not sell.—4. (\Vithout vitriol.)
Take of ivory black (in very fine powder), 2 lb. ;
molasses, 1% 1b.; sperm oil, Xpint; mix as be-
fore; then add of gum-arabic, 1 oz.; (dissolved
in) strong vinegar, % pint; mix well; the next
day further add of good vinegar, or stron sour
beer, 3 to 4 pints; stir briskly for a jofan
hour, and again once a day for a week. Excellent.
A cheaper, but inferior article, maybe madeby
the reductions and omissions noticed above.—

. From paste blacking (see below), by reducing
It with sufficient vinegar, sour beer or water to
give it the liquid form.

PASTE BLA CKING.,——l. Qualities from
good to superexcellent may be made from any
of the preceding formulas, by simply omitting

 

the final dilution with the vinegar, sour beer, 0)
water, therein ordered at the end of the process.
—-2. Ivory-black, I cwt.; molasses, 28 1b.; rape
oil or other cheap oil, 1 gal. ; mix as before; then
add of oil of vitriol, 21 1b.; diluted with water, 2
gal.; mix them quickly and thoroughly by forci.
ble stirring with a strong wooden spatula, and as
soon as admixture is complete, but while still
fuming, put the cover on the tub and leave it till
the next day, when Without further stirring it
will be fit for use or sale. Good ordinary. Used
for tins—3. As the last; but adding, with the
ivoryoblack, etc., 14 to 28 1b. of coal-soot sifted,
omitting one half of the oil, and diluting the
vitriol with an extra gallon of water. Inferior.
Chiefly used for low price packages.—4. Ivory.
black, “killed” with a tablespoonful alcohol, !

pound; sweet oil, I fluid ounce; molasses, é
pint; hydrochloric acid, 1 ounce; sulphuric acid,
1 ounce; mix the first three ingredients, add the
acids, and 3 pints of vinegar if it is to be liquid
blacking. No “challenge blacking” e uals this.

VAlt’A/ISH Blacking.-—1. Take 9 per cent,
alcohol, 1 gal.; white pine turpentine, 1% lbs.;
gum shellac, 1% lbs.; Venice turpentine, 1 gill.
Let these stand in a jug in the sun or by a stove
until the gums are dissolved, then add sweet oil
1 gill, and lamp—black, 2 02s., rub the lamp-black
first with a little of the varnish—2. Alcohol, 1
gallon, white turpentine, 1% lbs., gum shelac,
1% lbs., Venice turpentine, 1 gill. Let these
stand in a jug in the sun, or by a stove, until the
gums are dissolved, then add sweet oil, I gill,
and lampblack, 2 02., and you have a varnish
which will not crack when the harness is twisted
like the the old shellac varnish.

VA [UV] 5}], for Edgt.—Take 98 per cent. al-
cohol, 1 pt.; shellac 3 023.; rosin, 2 025.; pine
turpentine, 1 oz.; lamp-black, % oz.; mix, and
when the gums are all cut, it is ready to use;
but bear in mind that low proof alcohol will not
cut gums properly, for any varnish.

WA TEE PROOF Backing—Take an old
pair of India rubber shoes, (boots or any old
India rubber,) cut them up and pull off the cloth-
lining ; put the rubber into about a pint of neat’s
foot oil, and set it on the stove until the rubber
is entirely melted, stirring it once in a while.
Don’t let it boil or burn. It will take about two
days to melt the rubber. As soon as the rubber
is melted, stir in one and a half pounds of beef
or mutton tallow, and one-half pound of bees-
wax. Ifit is not black enough, you may add a
little lamp—black. To apply to the boots : \Vash
them clean of mud and blacking. When they
are nearly dry, apply the water-proof all over
them. If the weather is cold, work near the
stove. The best thing to use in applying this
blacking is one’s hands, and considerable elbow-
grease to rub itwell into the leather. Two days
after it is applied to leather, the leather will re-
ceive a polish from ordinary blacking which will
resist both fresh and salt water.

INKS.

ASIA T I C .—Logwood shavings and powdered
galls, of each 2 lbs.; green vitriol 1 lb. . gum
‘2 lb. ; pomegranate bark % 1b.; water 1 gal-
on; infuse 14 days, with frequent agitation.

A U T H OGRAPHI C, for Lithographer;—
White soap, 25 parts ; white wax, 25 parts;
mutton suet, 6 parts; lamp-black, 6 parts: shell

INKS AND BLACKING.

lac, to parts; mastic, 10 parts. Mix with heat,
and proceed as for lithographic ink.

BL UE.-—-I. Take soft Prussian blue and oxalic
acid in equal parts, powder them finely, and then
add soft water to bring it to a thin paste. Let
it stand for a few days, then add soft water to
make the desired shade of color, adding a little
gum arabic to prevent its spreading.

2.—Chinese blue, 3 ounces, oxalic acid (pure),
34/ of an ounce: gum arabic, powdered; I ounce,
distilled water; 6 pints. i...

BL UE, Indelibzc.——This ink, for marking
clothing, is made of live parts of oxide of molyb-
aenum dissolved in the requisite quantity of
hydrochloric acid; two parts of the extract of
liquorice, and six of gum arabic dissolved in
200 parts of water. These two solutions are
mixed, and after writing with them on the ob-
jects, the side written upon is moistened with a
solution of chloride of tin in water. This in-
delible ink not only withstands washing, but also
all kinds of soaps and alkalies, except those
which also destroy the linen.

BL UE BLA CK—Bruised galls, I 1b., water,
6 quarts; steep for ten days, add iron filings, I
02., sulphuric acid, I oz., copperas, 3 oz.; stir
frequently, and in a few days strain the liquor.
Powder I oz. of indigo very finely, dry it by a
strong heat, and stir it into 4oz. of the strongest
sulphuric acid; reduce the product by heat to
the consistence of syrup. After twenty-four
hours add I pint of water, and mix with the
ink. The free acid must now be neutralized with
chalk or whiting. A little of this ink, properly
prepared, should color a pint of clear water
throughout immediately.

BRANDE’S.——Galls, 6 02., water, 6 pints;
boil, and add 4 oz. each of gum and copperas;
bottle, andadd to each pint, I grain of bi—chloride
of mercury, or 4 drops of creosote.

BRO0ME’S.—Galls, Io lbs., logwood, 4
lbs., copperas, 4 lbs., brown sugar, I 1b., water,
13% gallons, gum, 4 lbs. Boil the galls, log-
Wood, and gum separately, mix the liquors, add
the copperas; and make up 13% gallons.

BRO WAC—Digest powdered catechu, 4parts,
with water, 60 parts, for some hours; filter, and
add sufficient of a solution of bichromate of
potassa, I part in 16 of water.

CARBON. — Mix good Indian-ink with
common writing—ink. A useful ink for ticket
and shop-window labels.

CAA’AIINE.——Boil I pound 4 ounces of
ground cochineal, and a very little of the carbon-
ate of soda in 4 gallons of soft water for 20
minutes; then take it from the fire, and add 6
drachms of alum, and stir the mixture for a few
minutes, and let it stand for a quarter of an hour
for the dregs to subside; then run off the clear
liquor; strain the sediment through a fine sieve
or cloth, and then, when cold, add the white of
two eggs with the sediment; fish glue or isin-
glass will answer as well as the eggs. The
muriate of tin may be used instead of alum.
The weight of the cochineal may be reduced to
any amount to make a small quantity if the
proportions are preserved.

CHINESE INK See “India Ink.”

C OFFER-FLA TE, Printer:-In.é.-—Ink for
the rolling-press is made of linseed-oil, burnt
just as for common printing~ ink, and is then
mixed with Frankfort black, finely ground.
There are no certain proportions, every workman

 

201

adding oil or black to suit. Good ink de ends
most on the purity of the oil, and on its eing
thouroughly burned. Test it occasionally by
cooling a drop on the inside of an oyster-shell ;
feel it between the thumb and finger, and if it
draws out into threads, it ’is burnt enough.
Weak oil well charged with black is called stiff
ink. Oil fully burned and charged with as much
black as it will take in, is termed strong ink.
The character of the engraving to be printed
determines which is suitable.

C 0PYING.—I. Take two gallons of rain
water, and put into it % pound of gum arabic,
% pound brown sugar, % pound clean copperas,
% pound powdered nut galls. Mix, and shake
occasionally for ten days, and strain. If needed
sooner, let it steep in an iron kettle until the
strength is obtained—2. Take 2 gallons rain
water, and put into it gum arabic, % lb. ; brown
sugar, % lb. ; clean copperas, % lb. ; powdered
nutgalls, % lb. ; mix, and shake occasionally for
ten days, and strain; if needed sooner, let it
stand in an iron kettle until the strength is
obtained. This ink will stand the action of the
atmosphere for centuries, if required.

COPYING, Requiring no Freya—A black
copying ink, which flows easily from the en,
and will enable any one to obtain very s arp
copies without the aid of apress, can be prepared
in the following manner: One ounce of coarsely
broken extract of logwood and two drachms of
crystalized carbonate of soda are placed in a
porcelain capsule with eight ounces of distilled
water, and heated until the solution is of a deep
red color, and all the extract is dissolved. The
capsule is then taken from the fire. Stir well
into the mixture one ounce of glycerine of spe-
cific gravity of 1.25, fifteen grains of neutral
chromate 0f potash, dissolved in a little water,
and two drachms of finely pulverized gum arabic,
which may be previously dissolved in a little hot
water so as to produce a mucilaginous solution.
The ink is now complete and ready for use. In
well closed bottles it may be kept for a long time
without getting moldy, and, however, old it may
be, will allow copies of writing to be taken with-
out the aid of a press. It does not attack steel
pens. This ink cannot be used with a copying
press. Its impression is taken on thin moistened
copying paper, at the back of which is placed a
sheet of writing pa er. ,

DRA W'ING. — A very black and indelible
drawing ink can be made by dissolving shellac
in a hot aqua solution of borax, and rubbing up
in this solutiona fine quality of Indian ink. After
using, dip the drawing pen in alcohol, and wipe
dry to keep it clean and bright.

ELDERBERRK—The bruised berries are
placed in an earthen vessel, and kept in a warm
place for three days, than pressed out and filtered.
The filtered juice is of such an intense dark color
that it takes 200 parts of water to reduce it to
the shade of dark red wine. Add to 12% quarts
of this filtered juice I oz. of sulphate of iron, and
the same quantity of crude pyroligneous acid;
and an ink is prepared which, when first used,
has a Violet color, but when dry is indigo-blue
black. This ink is said by a German chemist to
be superior. in many respects to that prepared
With galls; it does not become thick so soon, it
fiows_easier from the pen without gumming, and
in writing the letters do not run into one another.

EX CHEQUER.—Bruised gall, 4. parts; gum

 

202 D] C T1 DNA]? Y OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

arabic, powdered, I part; green vitriol nine-tenth
of a part; rain water, or the water of melted ice,
45 parts; mix and let stand; shake once a day.
F itafor use in three weeks.

FADED INK’, To Re:z‘ore.—-—Writing rendered
illegible by age may be restored by moistening
it by means of a feather with an infusion of galls,
or a solution of prussiate of potash slightly aci-
dulated with muriatic acid, observing so to apply
the liquid as to prevent the ink spreading.

FLUIDS, W181 TING. — What are called
Writing fluids, in distinction from ink, are fluids
which flow freely from the pen and do not clog
—have a good color when written, but do not
necessarily retain that color after the lapse of a
few months. Ink, distinguished from writing
fluids, retains its colors, if rightly made, for cen-
turies; and it is evidently necessary that it should
do so, for, on account of its use in legal docu-
ments, the most important interests of society
are dependent upon that very quality.

The bestwriting fluids are made either from
logwood extract or a decoction of logwood, with
the aid of a bichromate of potass in the former
case, and the chromate (yellow) in the latter—or
from some of the many forms of Prussian blue.

I. Dissolve ordinary soluble PruSSian blue in,

clean soft water until the desired shade is ob-
tained. This gives a good color, and is not af-
fected by alcohol; but any salt added to the water
will throw down the color. Should this happen,
throw away the salty water and redissolve the
Prussian blue in fresh soft water. Gradual ex-
posure to the air on or near the seacoast, and the
constant use of a steel pen, will therefore cause
this ink to have a sediment; but notwithstanding
that, when frequently made, or kept from the air
as much as possible, it is quite good—2. Soluble
ferro-cyanide of potassium and iron dissolved in
water, as in No. I. Alcohol throws down the
coloring matter in this solution as well as salt.—
3. Powdered Prussian blue, one ounce; mu-
riatic (hydrochloric) acid, concentrated, one and
a half fluid ounces. Mix in abottle; after thirty
hours, dilute with water to the required shade.—
4. (Lewis’: Black lVriting-F/m'd.) One part
powdered copperas, I part logwood, 3 parts
crushed gall-nuts, I part gum-arabic, 100 parts
white wine or vinegar.—5. (Reba): Carl’s Writ-
ing-Fluid.) Boil 8 parts powdered Aleppo gall-
nuts, and 4 parts thin shavings of logwood, for
one hour, in 200 parts of water until reduced to
100 parts. Filter and add 4parts copperas, 3
parts gum arabic, I part blue vitriol, (cupric sul-
phate,) and I part white sugar; let the mixture
stand one day and preserve in closed bottles. In
these six prescriptions, of German, English, and
French. origin, copperas or sulphate of iron is
the chief ingredient. Lately, however, a sub-
stitute has been found in the chromate compound,
which is the chief ingredient in the following
prescription: 6. (Runga’: IVriting-F/uidfor Steel
Penn) consists of 1000 parts 0 extract of log-
wood, made by boiling down I 55 parts of log-
wood in 2000 parts of water; filter and add I
part of yellow chromate of potash. This ink is
of a very bluish tint when first used; but unlike
those made from iron, it leaves no deposit when
exposed to the air. To prevent mould, add a
few drops of a solution of bi-cloride of mercury.

FLUID, BL UE WRITING—I. Ferrocya-
nide of iron, powdered, and strong hydrochloric
acid, each 2 parts. Dissolve, and dilute with

 

soft water.—-2. (Indestructible) Shellac, 4 parts;

borax, 2 parts; soft water, 36 parts. Boil in a

close vessel till dissolved ; then filter, and take of
gum arabic, 2 parts; soft water, 4 parts. Dis-

solve and mix the two solutions together, and boil

for five minutes as before, occasionally stirripg

to promote their union; when cold, add a sulfi-

cient quantity of finely-powdered indigo and

lamp-black to color; lastly, let it stand for two

or three hours, until the coarser powder has sub- ‘
sided, and bottle for use. Use this fluid with a

clean pen, and keep it in glass or earthen ink-

stands, as many substances will decompose it

while in the liquid state. When dry, it will re-

sist the action of water, oil, turpentine, alcohol,

diluted sulphuric acid, diluted hydrochloric acid,

oxalic acid, chlorine, and the caustic alkalies and

alkaline earths.

GEIZZLER’S BLA CAI—I 1b. crushed gall-
nuts; 10 ozs. copperas; 3 ozs. gum-arabic; I qt.
vinegar, and 7 qts. water. Let the mixture stand
for two weeks, and pour off the liquid, which is
the ink. The residum at the bottom will be
the gall-nuts with some ink adheringfand may
be used again by adding 3 025. copperas, I 02.
gum-arabic, and a corresponding quantity of
water and vinegar—keeping the preparation in a
warm place.

GREENE—I. Digest I part of gamboge with
from 7 to Io parts of the blue ink.—-2. To pow-
dered bichromate of potassa, 8 parts, contained
in a porcelain dish, add oil of vitriol, 8 parts,
previously diluted with 64 of water; then heat,
while evaporating, add gradually 24 parts of al-
cohol, and reduce to 56 parts, which filter, and
in the clear liquor dissolve 8 parts of gum arabic.

GREGOII’ Y’S (Having a gremz'r/z tint.)—
Bruised galls, I pound; logwood, % pound; gum
6 ounces; copperas, 8 ounces; blue vitriol, I
ounce; sugar, I ounce. Boil the galls and log-
wood in twenty pints of water down to ten pints,
strain, dissolve the other ingredients, and bottle.

-GOLD.—Genuine gold leaf is rubbed on a
glass or agate plate with honey, by means of a
muller, until a perfectly uniform mixture is ob-
tained ; this is washed in a glass or other suitable
vessel, and the honey removed by frequent wash-
ing with pure water. The resulting gold powder
is dried, and when used is suspended in aso-
lution of gum arabic. After writing with this
ink, the letters are to be burnishedwith a smooth
piece of ivory, to produce their golden color and
brightness.

HAENLE’S Black—This ink, it is claimed,
does not attack steel pens. Two parts crushed
gall-nuts, I part gum-arabic, I part copperas, and
16 parts distilled or rain-water, adding a few
grains of mercurial sublimate to prevent mould.
In prescription No. I, the latter is avoided by
usmg Vinegar.

INCORRODIBLE Black—I. A black ink,
not corroding steel pens, and neutral, may be
prepared by digesting in an open vesse142 ounces
coarsely powdered nutgall, 15 ounces of gum se-
negal, 18 ounces of sulphate of iron, free from
copper, 3 drachms of aqua ammonia, 24 ounces
of alcohol, and 18 quarts of distilled or rain water.
Continue the digestion until the fluid has assum~
ed a deep black colon—2. Boil 1% ozs. of well-
picked logwood in little more than a quart of
water, down to a pint; let it cool; then add I7
or I8 grains of chromate 0f potash, and stir it
briskly. The ink is then ready for use. It re<

 

IIVKS AND BLACKING.

sists the action of all ordinary destructive agents
better than the old ink. It may be washed, after
use, with a wet sponge, or steeped for 24 hours
in water, or even tested with dilute acids, and
yet preserve its original blackness. As it con-
tains neither gum nor acid, and is a perfect liquid,
it neither thickens, deposits a sediment, nor cor-
rodes the steel of the pen.

INDES T 1? UC T [Elli—On many occasions,
it is of importance to employ an ink indestructible
by any rocess, that wil not equally destroy the
’materia on'which inis applied. For black ink,
25 grains of copal, in powder, are to be dissolved
in 200 grains of oil of lavender by the assistance
of agentle heat, and are then to be mixed with
2%grains of lampblack, and half a. grain of indigo.
This ink is particularly useful for labeling phials,
etc., containing chemical substances of acorro~
sive nature.

INDELIBLE.——I. To 4 drachms of lunar
caustic, in 4ounces of water, add 60 drops of nuts
galls, made strong by being pulverized and steep-
ed in soft water. The mordant which is to be
applied to the cloth before writing, is composed
of 1 ounce of pearlash dissolved in 4 ounces of
water, with a little gum arabic dissolved in it.
Wet the spot with this ; dry and iron the cloth;
then write.-——2. 1% drachms of nitrate of silver,
I ounce of distilled water, % ounce of strong mu-
cilage of gum arabic, % of a drachm of liquid
ammonia. Mix the above in a clean glass bottle,
cork tightly, and keep in a dark place till dis-
solved, and ever afterwards. Directions for use:
Shake the bottle, then dip a clean quill pen in
the ink, and write or draw what you require on
the article; immediately hold it close to the fire
(Without scorching), or pass a hot iron over it,
and it will become a deep black.

INDELIBLE, A ni/z'ne.—The discovery of
an aniline black has led to the employment of
this coloring matter in marking linen. This ink
has the advantage of being cheaper than the ink
prepared from nitrate of silver. It has also an-
other advantage over the latter salt, viz. : that it
is chemically indelible. The ink made with
nitrate of silver can be removed by washing the
linen with a solution of hyposulphite of soda, or
by moistening it with a solution of bichloride of
copper and then washing with liquid ammonia.
This is not the case with the aniline ink, the
color of which cannot be removed by any chemi-
cal agent whatever. Linen therefore marked
with this ink can never be appropriated by other
persons than the right owner.

I. Such aniline ink may be prepared in the
following way: 8% grains of bichloride-of cop-
per are dissolved in 30 grains of distilled water,
then are added 10 grains of common salt, and
9% grains of liquid ammonia. A solution of
30 grains of hydrochlorate of aniline in 20 grains
of distilled water is then added to 20 grains of
a solution of gum arabic, containing 2 pints water,
I pint gum arabic, and lastly Io grains of glycerine
4 parts of the analine solution thus prepared are
mixed with one part of the copper solution.

The liquid which results has a green appear-
ance, and may be at once employed for
marking linen, since it invariably becomes black
after a few days. A steel pen may be employed
as well as a quill. If it is desirable not to wait
so long for the appearance of the black color, a
hot iron may be passed over the writing when
the ink is dry, or the linen may be held over the

 

’03

flame of a spirit lamp, or over a hot late, or hot
water, when the black tint will readi y a pear.

2. (Pun/10%.) Dissolve 4 parts 0 aniline
black in 16 parts by weight of alcohol, with 60
drops strong hydrochloric acid, and dilute the
dark blue solution with 90 parts by weight of
water, in which 6 parts of gum arabic has been
previously dissolved.

INDELZBLE, T o be used wit/i Typt.——The
thin nitrate of silver marking inks may be thick-
ened with gum or sugar or with printer’s ink to
bring them to the proper consistency. Inks for
using with types or stencil plates are sometimes
prepared by taking sulphate of manganese, two
parts; lampblack, one part; sugar, four parts;
all in fine powder and triturated to a paste with
a little water. Or black oxide of manganese and
hydrate of potassa are mixed, heated to redness
in a crucible, and then triturated with an equal
weight of pure white clay, and water enough to
give consistency. The work to be rinsed well in
water after it has become dry.

IZVDIA INK—Take 8 parts well-burnt lamp-
black, 64 parts water, 4 parts fine pulverized in-
digo, well rubbed up and boiled till the greater
portion of the water is evaporated; then add 5
parts gum-arable, 2 parts bone—glue, I part ex-
tract of succory; boil till the mixture is as thick
as paste, then mould in wooden forms, well
greased with olive or almond-oil, in order to
prevent adhesion. By using burnt peach kernels
or cork, in place of ordinary lamp-black, a finer
quality may be given to the ink. The glue would
better be left out, and gum-arabic substituted.
The mass is then pressed into flat cakes weighing
from one to two pounds, and left to ripen for a
couple of days, after which it is formed into the
customary shape. The moulder takes for this
purpose a piece of the dough, and warms it by
means of a basin full of live coals, kneads it long
enough in his hands and then fills the form, which
he puts under a long lever, pressing it by his
own weight, while in the meantime he works the
next piece of the mass. The moulds are made of
wood, and also the pistons on which are cut the
letters. The lustre is produced by brushing the
dried ink with a hard brush saturated with rosin,
which also prevents the ink from blackening the
fingers afterwards. The peculiar odor is derived
from a small quantity of camphor or musk. which
is incorporated with the warm dough. All or-
dinary inks are without it. The colored letters
are painted on with a fine brush ; the gold and
silver colors by suspending the finely divided
metals in water to which has been added a little

elatine.

IZVDIA INK: flow ta Salem—Indian ink for
drawings is best tested in the following anner:
Rub off a portion on a porcelain sur ace with
water to the proper consistency, then with a ruler
draw a number of lines of varying thickness on
a piece of drawing-paper. When dry, brush over
w1th water freely. If good the ink lines will keep
sharp and clear, whilst oor ink will run or spread
sideways. A iece 0 slate is better than glass
for rubbing it own to the condition fit for use.

INDIA INK For Ordinary Writing—India
ink is composed of carbon, and will keep for an
length of time without undergoing change, a -
though dissolved in water. Neither great heat
nor extreme cold affects it. All that is requisite
is to keep the liquid from evaporating—so far as
that is possible,-—and to protect. it from dust.

:04

The solution makes an excellent ink, and is of a
fine black.

INDIA INIf', Substitute/2m —Boi1 parchment
slips or cuttings of glove-leather in water till it
forms a size, which, when cool, becomes of the
consistence of jelly; then, having blackened an
earthen plate, by holding it over the flame of a
candle, mix up, with a camel~hair pencil, the fine
lampblack thus obtained with some of the above
size, while the plate is still warm. This black
requires no grinding, and produces an ink of the
same color, which works as freely with the pen-
cil, and is as perfectly transparent as the best
Indian-ink.

7AHN’SBIack.—Two parts ground logwood,
12 parts Bablah, (an oriental gum containing
tannin, and derived from acacias,) 200 parts
water. Boil down to 100 parts, filter through
linen, and add 1 part powdered gum-arabic, I
part sugar, and 3 parts copperas. To prevent
mould, add a solution of 1-100 part of mercurial
sublimate in I part water.

yAPA N Black—In 6 quarts of water boil 4
ounces of logwood in chips cut very thin across
the grain. The boiling may be continued for
nearly an hour, adding from time to time, a little
boiling water to compensate for waste by evapora-
tion. Strain the liquor while hot; allow it to
cool, and make up the quantity equal to five quarts
by the further addition of cold water. To this
decoction put one pound of blue galls coarsely
bruised, or % pound of the best galls in sorts,
4 ounces of sulphate of iron calcined to whiteness,
% ounce of acetate of copper, previously mixed
with the decoction till it forms a smooth paste, 3
ounces of coarse sugar, and 6 ounces of gum
senegal or arabic. These several ingredients
may be introduced one after another, contrary to
the advice of some, who recommend the gum,
etc. , to be added when the ink is nearly made.
The composition produces the ink usually called
Japan ink, from the high gloss which it exhibits
when written with.

LEWIS’.—Bruised galls, 3 lbs., gum and
copperas, of each I 1b., vinegar, I gallon, water,
2 gallons; macerate, with frequent shaking, for
14 days. Product 3 gallons.

LITHOGRAPIIIC. — I. Take Venice tur-
pentine, I part; lampblack, 2 parts ; tallow, 6
parts; hard tallow soap, 6 parts; mastic in tears,
8 parts; shell lac, 12 parts; wax, 16 parts. Melt
and pour it out on a slab. 2. Take dry tallow
soap, 5 parts; mastic in tears, 5 parts; Scotch
soda, 5 parts; shell lac, 25 parts; lampblack, 2
parts. Fuse the soap and lac, then add the
remainder.

For use this ink must be rubbed down with
water, in a saucer (warmed), until an emulsion
is formed of a proper consistence to flow easily
from a pen or pencil.

L UAIINO US Ink.——Phosphorus,halfdrachm;
oil cinnamon, half ounce; mix in vial, cork tight-
ly, heat it slowly until mixed. A letter written
with this ink can only be read in a dark room,
when the writing will have the appearance of fire.

MARKING Ink, Set “Indelz’éle”.

MARKING Ink, To Tak: out—Most indel-
ible ink contains silver as a basis, and may be re-
moved by a solution of cyanide of potassium. When
the basis of the ink is carbon, however, this will fail.
Chlorine will destroy stains and markings depend-
ent upon organic matters except the carbon ink.

MARKING Ink for Panda—Dissolve as-

 

DICTIONARY OFEVERY-DA Y WANTS.

phaltum, grahamite, albertite, or any mineral of
this character 13 naphtha or oil of turpentine to
a thin fluid, a_n you will obtain an ink to answer
all purposes, viz., to dry quickly, not to spread,
and the markings to be nearly indestructible.

JIETALS, Inks fir Writing on.—-i. Mix 1
02. of powdered sulphate of copper and % oz. of
powdered sal ammoniac, with 2 oz. of diluted
acetic acid; adding lampblack or vermilion.——2.
Dissolve I part of copper in [0 of nitric acid, and
dilute with 10 parts of water. The above two
receipts will answer for writing on steel,or tinplate
or sheet zine—3. Verdigris, one ounce; sal am-
moniac, I ounce; lampblack, half an ounce; water,
half a int. Mix in an earthenware mortar, with-
out usmg a metal spatula. To be shaken before
use, and used with a clean quill pen on bright,
freshly-cleaned zinc.

M 0 ULD in Ink, T o Prevent—The micros~
cope has revealed the fact that mould is a plant,
propagated like other lants; and any thing that
will kill vegetation will) prevent ink or any other
mould. The common remedies applied for this
purpose are, creosote, carbolic acid, oil of cloves,

ergamot, or many other ethereal oils, acetic
acid, alcohol, corrosive sublimate, arsenic, etc.;
but always added in comparatively small quan-
tities.

OILINESS in Ink, To Ramona—Add a little
ox-gall and vinegar to the ink.

PERMANENT Ink, For Ur: wit/z Stamp:
or T Mata—I. Equal parts of black oxide of man-
ganese and hydrate of potash are mixed, heated
to redness, rubbed, with an equal quantity of
smooth white clay, into a. paste, water being
added for the purpose.—2. Sulphate of manga-
nese, 2 drains; lampblack, I dram; powdered
loaf sugar, 4 drains; rubbed into paste with
water. After stamping, dry the linen, etc., and
wash well in water.

PERPETUAL Ink, For T ombrz’one: etc.—
Pitch, II lbs. ; lampblack, I 1b.; turpentine
sufficient: mix with heat.

PREROGA TIVE Court Ink.—Galls, I 1b.,
gum, 6 02., alum, 2 02., copperas, 702.; kino, 3
oz., logwood, 4 02., water, 8 lbs. Used to write
on parchment.

PRINTING [NIC—Set on a fire, in a large
iron pot, 12 gallons of clear linseed oil, boil, and
stir until it smokes, then ignite it, remove it from
the fire, and let it burn until a sample will draw
into strings between the fingers. Put the lid on
to extinguish the flame, then add I lb. of resin
to each quart of oil ; dissolve, and add gradually
in slices 1% lb. of soap; heat the pot until the
solution is complete, when the varnish is ready. .
—-Two sorts are kept, one thick, and the other
thin, so as to mix when required; the difference
is caused in the boiling and firing being kept up
for different periods. For large printing-type a
thin is required, as thick ink would only print
in patches ; for small type very stiff ink is used,
to prevent it running off. For making black ink,
mix together mineral lamp-black, 8 lbs., vege-
table black, 7 lbs., indigo and Prussian blue, of
each 5 02., Indian red, 2 02.; grind this With suf-
ficient varnish, gradually added as the grinding
goes on. In most manufactories steam. is em—
ployed for this purpose. For colored ink .use
colored pigments, according to the required

shade.
PRINTING, SA VA GE’S. —-Take of balsam
of copaiba (pure), 9 02.; lampblack, 3 02.; indigo

LVKS AND BM CKING.

and Prussian blue, of each % 02.; Indian red, %
oz.; yellow soap (dry), 3 02.; grind the mixture
to an im alpable smoothness by means of astone
and mul er. Canada balsam may be substituted
for balsam of copaiba where the smell of the lat-
ter is objectionable, but the ink dries very quickly.
PRINTING, KIRCHER’S, (Patented).—
This ink consists of 10 parts of hydrated peroxide
of iron, 6 parts of hydrated protox1de of iron,
and from Io to 16 parts of varnish. The two
first-named ingredients are mixed in a morst
state by stirring ; 48 parts of water are then
added; and the water. being evaporated by b011-
ing converts the mixture into a fine velvety black
owder. This powder is washed and dried, and
finally mixed with the varnish, the proportion of
which varies in accordance with the desired qua-
lity of the ink. _ . . .
The advantages claimed for this ink are that 1t
never changes its color. It has no disagreeable
odor; it is a fine glossy black; and is one third
cheaper than ordinary ink.
POWDER,INII’.—I. Sulphate of copper, I
dr.; gum arabic % oz.; copperas, I 02.; nutgalls
and extract of logwood, 4 ozs. each; all to be
ulverized and evenly mixed.—2. Sulphate of
Iron, 2 parts; galls, 5 parts; gum, I part. Re-
duce to a owder and divide into one-ounce pa-
pers, each of which will make half a pint of ink.
—3. Aleppo galls, 3 lbs.; copfperas (dry but not
calcined), I 1b.; gum arabic, 02.; white sugar,
2 ozs.; all in powder; mix. 1 pint of boiling
water poured on 1% or 2 ozs., makes a pint of

ink.
POWDER, (INK ) FLA TZER’S.—Take 100
parts dry extract of logwood, well mixed and
ound with one part fine bi-chromate of potash.
Ealf an ounce is suflicient to change a whole pint
of water into beautiful black ink.

PURPLE. ———A beautiful purple ink is made by
boiling I ounce of ground logwood in 1% pints
of soft water, and y, ounce of pulverized alum.
Boil 20 minutes, strain, and bottle for use. Keep
the air out, and it will keep a long time.

RED.—I. Pernambuco-wood, 4 parts; alum
and cream of tartar, each I part, with 30 of water;
boil down to I6 parts, let stand, pour ofl', filter,
and dissolve in the liquid gum arabic, 1% parts ;
white sugar, I part.

2. Digest powdered cochineal, 8 parts, and
carbonate of potash, I6 parts, in I44 of water,
for 24 hours ; then boil up with powdered alum,
4, parts, and add 24 of cream of tartar, with 3
parts of tartaric acid, and, when eflervescence has
ceased, another part of the acid, or enough to
produce thecolor; let cool, filter, and boil the re-
sidue on the filter with 12 parts of water; filter
again, mix the liquids and dissolve in them 24
parts of gum arabic, and lastly % part of oil of
cloves. No iron vessels must be used in this
process.

3. Digest powdered cochineal, 16 parts; oxalic
acid, 2 parts ; dilute acetic acid, 80 parts ; distilled
water, 40 parts, for 36 hours; then add powdered
alum, I part; gum arabic, I to 10 ; shake up, let
stand for r2 hours, and strain.

4. Dissolve I part of carmine in 8 to Io parts of
aqua ammonia, and add mucilage of gum arabic
sufficient to reduce it to erly.

RED, PERMA E YI—Vermilion, 4parts;
sulphate of iron, I part; drying oil to mix. An
other color will answer besides red. This ink
will resist most of the usual reagents.

 

305

RESIN-OIL INK—Melt together I 3 ounces
of resin, 1 pound of resin oil, and 1% ounces of
soft soap; when cold, add lamp-black.

RIBA U C OURT ’S.-—Galls, I 1b., log-wood,
% 1b., gum, 6025., copperas, 8 025., blue vitriol
and sugar, of each I oz. Boil the galls and log.
wood in 20 ints of water down to lo pints-r
strain; disso ve the other ingredients, and bottle.

RULING, Black, flan—Take good black ink,
and add gall as for blue ; do not cork it, as it will
prevent it from turning black.

RULIN G, Bluefor.—Take4 ounces of vitriol,I
best quality, to 1 ounce of indigo; pulverize the
indigo very fine; put the indigo on the vitriol,
let them stand exposed to the air for six days, or
until dissolved; then fill the pot with chalk, add
half a gill of fresh gall, boiling it before use.

RUZJN G, Red fan—One pound of Brazil-
wood to one gallon of the best vinegar; let the
vinegar simmer before you add the wood, then
let them simmer together for half an hour, then
add three-quarters of a pound of alum to set the
color; strain it through a woollen or cotton cloth,
cork it tight in a stone or glass bottle. For rul-
ing, add half a gill of fresh gall to one quart of
red ink, then cork it up in a bottle for use.

SCARLET—Take garancine of best quality
I ounce, digest with liquor ammonia I ounce, add
I pint of cold distilled water, triturate together in
a mortar, filter, and dissolve in the solution %
ounce of gum arabic, or take pure carmine 20
grains, liquor ammonia 3 fluid ounces, dissolve
and add 18 grains of powdered gum.

SIL VER.—Triturate in a mortar equal parts
of silver foil and sulphate of potassa, until reduced
to a fine powder; then wash out the salt, and mix
the residue with a mucilage of equal parts of gum
arabic and water.—2. Mix to aproper consistency
finely ground mica, with a solution of gum ara‘.
bic, in water.

S YMPA THE TIC INKS, Forstc'ret andot/zer'
Correspondomo.—-Chemistry gives us the means
of performing many curious feats. Among the
most interesting of these are the perfectly color-
less fluids, clear as water, which however, when
written with, produce a variety of colored letters,
by reason of simple chemical changes taking
place as soon as the fluid touches the paper. We
will describe a few of these transformations :-— T a
write olue letter: will; a colorless liquid—A piece
of writing paper is prepared by moistening with
a solution of oxalic acid, and drying ; and a dilut-
ed (colorless) solution of nitrate of cobalt is used
for writing. The oxalate of cobalt which results
from the contact is blue. Or, the paper may be
moistened with the nitrate'of cobalt, and the writ-
ing done with the oxalic acid. Another shade
of blue is produced by moistening the paper with
a solution of yellow prussiate of potash. After
drying it is ready for use ;and when it is written
on with asolution of chloride or sulphate of iron.
letters of Prussian blue will appear. The paper
may also be prepared with sulphate of iron and
the writing performed with the prussiate of pot-
ash—To write retl letlers wit]; a colorless liquid.
——-Prepare the paper with a weak solution of sul-
phate of iron, to which a little nitric acid has
been added; then write with a very dilute solu-
tion of sulpho-cyanide of potassium. If the so-
lution is strong, the color is very dark; if weak,
bright red.-—-To write Hat/e letters will: a oolorlerr
[fowl—Prepare the paper with a decoction of
gall-nuts or a solution of tannic acid, and write

206

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

with a solution of sulphate of iron; or, prepare
with the latter and write with the former. An-
other black is obtained by preparing the paper
with a weak solution of bichromate of potash,
and writing with a solution of extract of logwood ;
or inversely. Or, prepare the paper with a so-
lution of nitrate of bismuth or acetate of lead,
and write with a fresh solution of sulphate of
potassium.——To wrile yellow letter: will; a color-
ltsr liquid.—Prepare the paper with acetate of
lead, and write with bichromate of potash; or
inversely. Or, prepare the paper with a decoc-
tion of gall-nuts, and write with chloride of anti-
mony ; or inversely.——To write orange letters
will: a colorler: liquid—Prepare the paper with
a solution of the yellow protochromate of potash,
and write with the extractum Saturni of the drug-
gists; or inversely.—To write lazuliful purple
letter will; a talorlerr [Quill—Prepare the paper
with a solution of chloride of tin, and write with
a solution of chloride of gold.

If in any of the above manipulations the pre-
paration of the paper is omitted, the letters writ-
ten will be entirely invisible, or nearly so, and
will become visible in their respective colors
when moistened with the solution otherwise used
for the preparation. In this manner, a secret
correspondence is often kept up, one party, for
instance, writing with a solution of yellow prus-
siate of potash, while another, for whom the
writing is intended, knows the secret to moisten
the paper with a solution of sulphate of iron,
when the letters will appear in blue; or, one
writing with chloride of gold, the other party
moistening with a tin-salt, when the letters appear
in urple.

ometimes it is desirable that the writing may
be made to disappear again. For this purpose,
the writing is performed with a solution of nitrate
of silver. After becoming dry, it is made visible
by means of a solution of common salt, and ex-
posure to the sun or daylight. When desired to
disappear, it is washed with a solution of bichlo-
ride of mercury; and then it may be made to
reappear a second time by moistening with a so-
lution of hyposulphite of soda.

SYMPA THE TIC Inlet, Otlwr.-—I. Write
upon paper with a diluted solution of muriate of
copper, when dry it will not be visible, but on
being warmed before the fire the writing will be-
come of a beautiful yellow.

2. Write with a solution of muriate of cobalt,
and the writing, while dry, will not be percep-
tible ; but if held towards the fire, it will then
gradually become visible; and if the muriate of
cobalt be made in the usual way, the letters will
appear of an elegant green color.

3. Write with acetate of cobalt, or with a mu-
riate of cobalt, previously purified from the iron
which it generally contains. When the writing
is become dry, these letters will also be invisible.
Warm the paper a little, and the writing will be
restored to a beautiful blue.

4. Draw a landscape with Indian ink, and
paint the foliage of the vegetables with muriate
of cobalt, some of the flowers with acetate of
cobalt, and others with muriate of copper. While
this picture is cold it will appear to be merely an
outline of a landscape, or winter scene; but
when gentl warmed, the trees and flowers
will be disp ayed in their natural colors, which
they will preserve only while they continue warm.
This may be often repeated.

 

5. Write with dilute nitrate of silver, which
when dry will be entirely invisible; hold the
paper over a vessel containing sulphate of am-
monia, and the writing will appear very distinct.

The letters will shine with the metallic brilliancy ~

of silver.

6. Write with a solution of nitrate or acetate of
lead. When the writing is dry it will be invisible.
Then having prepared a glass decanter with a.
little sulphuret of iron strewed over the bottom
of it, pour a little very dilute sulphuric acid uponl
the sulphuret, so as not to wet the mouth of the
decanter, and suspend the writing, by means of
the glass sto per, within the decanter. By an
attention to he paper the writing will become
visible by degrees, as the gas rises from the bot-
tom ot the vessel.

7. Write with a weak solution of sulphate of
iron, let it dry, and it will be invisible. By dip-
ping a feather in tincture of galls and drawin
the wet feather over the letters, the writing wifi
be restored and appear black.

8. Write with a similar solution, and when
dry wash the letters in the same way with prusl
siate of potash, and they will be restored to a
beautiful blue. .

9. Write with a solution of sulphate of copper,
wash as before with prussiate of potash, and the
writing will be revived of a reddish-brown color.

10. Write on paper with a solution of nitrate

of bismuth; when this is dry the writing will be--

invisible ; but if the paper be exposed to sulphu-
retted hydrogen gas, the words will be distinctly
legible. ,

II. A letter written with a diluted solution of
bismuth, becomes, when dry, illegible: but a
feather dipped in a solution of sulphuret of pot-
ash, will instantly blacken the oxide, and revive
the writing.

TICKE TING Ink, Far Groctrr, (ta-Dis-
solve I 02. of gum arabic in 6 02. water, and
strain; this is the mucilage; for a black color,
use drop-black, powdered, and ground with the
mucilage to extreme fineness; for blue, ultra~
marine is used in the same manner; for green,
emerald green; for white, flake white; for red,
vermillion, lake, or carmine; for yellow, chrome
yellow. When ground too thick, they are thin-
ned with a little water. Apply to the cards with
a small brush. The cards may be sized with a
thin glue, and afterwards varnished, if it is de-
sired to preserve them.

TRANSFER Ink—Mastic in tears, 4 ounces;
shellac, 6 ounces; Venice turpentine, % ounce;
melt together; add wax, % pound; tallow, 3
ounces. When dissolved, further add hard tallow
soap (in shavings), 3 ounces; and when the
whole is combined, add lampblack, 2 ounces.
Mix well, cool a little, and then pour it into
molds. This ink is rubbed down withalittle
water in a cu or saucer, in the same way as
water-color ca es. ——In winter, the operation
should be performed near the fire.

URE’S.—Galls, 12 lbs., gum, 5 lbs., coppe-
ras, 5 lbs., rain-water, 12 gallons. Boil the galls
in 9 gallons of water for 3 hours, adding water
as it evaporates. Pour off the clear, add the
strained solution of gum, dissolve the copperas
se arately; and mix the whole. To make 12
gallons. _
VIOLEJZ—t. Take aniline Violet, % ounce,
and digest it in 5 ounces of alcohol in a glass or
an cnamelled iron vessel for 3 hours; then add

>3 .
«11‘.

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

207

 

a full uart of distilled water and heat gently for
severaI hours, or until the odor of the spirit has
disappeared; then mix in 2 drachrns of gum ara-
bic dissolved in % pint of water, and allow the
- whole to settle. Experiment will determine for
you the precise quantity of coloring matter that
will be required—2. Eight parts of logwood and
64 parts of water; boil down to one-half, then
strain and add I part of chloride of tin.
VARIOUS OTHER Farina/ax fir Black
Ink—I. A method of making this has been re-
commended which is worthy of notice. Put into
a. stoneware jar, containing a gallon of water, %
of a pound of bruised nutgalls, and then, 24hours
after, add6 025. of copperas, 602s. of gum arabic,
and4or 5 drops of creosote. The vessel is to be
closed and left for 2 or 3 weeks, but shaken every 2
days. The contents are then allowed to settle,
- and the clear liquor will be fit for use, of a deep
black—2. To I gal. boiling soft water, add %
ounces extract logwood, boil 2 minutes, remove
from the fire and stir in 48 grains of bichromate
of potash, 48 grains of powdered gum arabic, and
8 grains of prussiate potash. For 10 gallons, use
7% ounces extract of logwood, I ounce bichro-
mate potash.-—3. Take 2 ounces extract logwood;
1 gallon soft water; boil slightly, or simmer in
an iron vessel 15 minutes; dissolve in a little hot
water 24 grains bichromate of potash, 12 grains
Prussiate of potash, and stir into the liquid a few
‘ minutes while over the fire; take off, and when
settled, strain it twice through common muslin
or sheeting cloth. The above ink is a jet black
from the first, flows beautifully from the pen,

 

and is so indellible- that even oxalic acid will not
remove it from paper.—-4. I pound of logwood is
boiled for 2 hours with 7 pounds of water; the
latter must be renewed as fast as it evaporates;
after cooling, 50 grains of yellow chromate of
potash are added, and the whole strained through
a cloth. It is then ready for use.—-5. Take cop-
peras 4 ounces, nutgalls 12 ounces, logwood, 8
ounces, gum arabic I ounce, glycerine, % ounce,
water 48 ounces, all the substances are to be
pulverized and boiled for I hour together; they
are then set to cool, strained through a flannel
bag, and after that filtered through a folded filter.
A drop of oil of cloves is added, the whole well
shaken and filled into bottles. .

WRITING WHICH DISAPPEARS IN
A FEW DA YS, Ink jinx—A piece of sal am-
moniate is placed for 4 or 5 days in nitric acid,
and then powder of touchstone, such as jewelers
use for trying gold and silver, is mixed with the
liquid in sufficient quantity, this gives a writing
fluid which bleaches after six to eight days. A
still better ink of this kind may be obtained as
follows : Boil four ounces crushed gall-nuts in
diluted nitric acid, and add two ounces sulphate
of iron and some chloride of ammonium. Writ-
ing done with this mixture will disappear in a
few days.

YELLOW—I. French berries, I pound;
alum, 2 ounces; water, I gallon. Boil and strain,
then add gum arabic, 4 ounces.

2. A little alum, added to saffron, in soft hot
water, makes a beautiful yellow ink.

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

A BOR TI OAK—The expulsion of the human
fretus, after the sixth week, and before the sixth
month of pregnancy. In its most extended sense,
the term has been applied synonymously with
miscarriage. The latter term, however, has been
generally restricted to the first six weeks after
conception. The expulsion of the foetus after
the sixth but before the ninth month, is termed
premature labor.-—Cau.res.—Nervous irritability,
plethora, advanced age, scurvy, syphilitic, scro-
fulous, or mercurial taints, malformation of spine
or pelvis, luxurious and indolent habits of living,
excessive indulgence of the passions, extreme
terror, anger, Joy, etc. ; falls, blows, violent
exercise, vomiting, cou hing, and rough purga-
tives; hot baths, stimulzating liquors, and other
excitants generally.——-Treatment—Avoid all the
above mentioned exciting causes,and immediately
on the appearance of any suspicious symptoms
seek a recumbent posture, and repose in every
shape practicable. An aperient should be taken,
and should there be much haemorrhage, injections
of cold water, or cold infusion of black tea, must
be had recourse to. A cold hipbath, or sponging
the lower part of the body With water and vin-
egar, often proves successful. Should the symp-
toms continue unabated, medical assistance
should be sought. Should the preceding meas-
ures prove ineffectual, and no Violent symptoms

 

supervene, the remaining treatment may consist
in continuing the recumbent posture, keeping the
bowels regular, taking alight nutritious diet, and
avoiding exposure to draughts of cold air. This
treatment may be gradually abandoned by the
patient for her usual course of life, in proportion
as she feels herself able to do so. In many cases,
however, the only treatment required throughout,
is simply the adoption for a few days of the re-
cumbent posture, gentle laxatives, and a light
nutritious diet.

AGUE.—A species of fever which comes on
only at stated intervals, (hence called intermit-
tent,) leaving the patient between the periods of
attack, in apparently good health. The attacks
of this disease usually return with great regula-
rity, and have in consequence been distinguished
by names having reference to the periods of their
Visits. From this characteristic nosologists have
divided them into the

Quotidian, returning after a lapse of 24 hours.

Tertian . . . . . 48 do.

Quartan . . . . . 72 do.
and so on until the interval extends to 9 or to
days, as in the nonanus and decimanus.—Symp.
—The cold stage, marked by debility, sleness,
coldness, drowsiness, and general rigors through-
out the body, impaired respiration, nausea,vomit-
ing, etc. These symptoms gradually abate, and

208

are followed by— 2. The hot stage, distinguished
b the usual marks of fever, and, in some cases,
Violent delirium, etc. After a certain time the
disease passes into.— 3. The mutating stage,
marked by a copious perspiration breaking out,
anda gradual return of most of the functions of
the bodv to their ordinary state. In many cases,
however, not only do the symptoms, but the suc-
cession of the stages and their duration also vary.
—Cau:e.r. Exposure to the miasmata of marshes
and stagnant water, putrefying animal and vege-
table matter, etc., poor diet, exposure to cold and
dam s, damp bed-chamber or linen; excessive
grie , fatigue, etc. To cure without quinine,—
take mandrake root, fresh dug, pound it, and
squeeze 1% tablespoonfuls of the juice, add an
equal quantity of molasses, divide into 3 doses
»0 I tablespoonful each, to be given 2 hours apart,
commencing so that all will be taken before the
chill. Then steep dogwood bark (some call it
boxwood , make it strong, and continue to drink
it freely or a week or two at least.

A G UE in Me BREAS T .—Take I part of
gum camphor, 2 parts yellow beeswax, 3 parts
clean lard; let all melt slowly, in any vessel,
(earthen best,) on stove. Use either cold or
warm ; spread very thinly on cotton or linen
cloths, covering those with flannel. No matter
if the breast is broken, it will cure if persevered
in. Do not, no matter how painful, cease from
drawing milk from the breast that is affected.

ANKLE, SPRAINED.-—Wash the ankle fre-

uently with cold salt and water, which is far better
t an warm vinegar or decoctions of herbs. Keep
your foot as cold as possible to prevent inflam-
mation, and sit with it elevated on a cushion.
Live on very low diet, and take every day some
cooling medicine. By obeying these directions
only, a sprained ankle has been cured in a few
da 5.
, LPOPLEXK—Occurs only in the corpulent
or obese, and the gross or high livers. To treat,
raise the head to a nearly upright position; un-
loose all tight cloths, strings, etc., and apply cold
water to the head and warm water and warm
cloths to the feet. Have the apartment cool and
well ventilated. Give nothing by the mouth un-
til the breathing is relieved, and then only
draughts of cold water.

APPE TITE, 1.03: of—This may be caused
by the use or abuse of stimulants, tobacco or vio-
lent mental emotion, and can be remedied by the
avoidance of the exciting cause, regularity in cat-
ing and simplicity in diet.

ASTIl/PIA.—A disease characterized by diffi-
culty of breathing, coming on by fits, accomp-
anied by a wheezing sound, cough, and tightness
of the chest, and generally terminating in a co-
pious expectoration, after the lapse of a few

ours. Asthma is principally confined to the
later periods of life, and a pears in many cases
to be hereditary. The ts vary from two to
several hours’ duration. Sometimes copious ex-
pectoration attends asthma, which has led to its
division into two kinds,—dry (asthma siccum)
and humid, (asthma humidum), It is brought
on by sudden exposure from heat to cold, to un-
whOlesome efiiuvia, by hard drinking, full meals,
violent exercise, and by cold, damp. and foggy
weather.—Trealment. Avoid the above exciting
causes. Seek a dry, .warm, and airy situation.
Wear flannel, keep, the bowels re lar, and the
stommh in order. The severity offhe paroxysm

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

ma be lessened by adopting the sitting posture,
an inhaling the vapor of hot water, or an infusion
of chamomile. Emetics and diaphoretics, follow-
ed by mild purgatives, may also be administered
with advantage. Various other remedies have
also been recommended; among them are the
following:—

A ST MA , Curefor.—~I. One ounce bonesett,
one ounce slippery elm, one ounce flax-seed,
stick liquorice. Simmer together in one uart of
water, strain carefully, add one pint of t e best
molasses and one half pound of loaf sugar. Sim—
mer them altogether and when cold, bottle tight.
—2. A tea made from the leaves of the common
chestnut, which have fallen from the tree in au-
tumn, sweetened well, and used as a common
drink for 2 or 3 months has effected a cure. A
light nutritious diet and strictly regular habits
should be adopted, which will often "produce a
marked improvement and effect a cure, when me-
dicines have failed.

A T 1? OP}! Y.—A wasting of the whole body—-
generally produced by the body receiving an in-
sufficient supply of nourishment, arising from
imperfect digestion, diarrhoea, and in children,
very frequently from worms. The best treat.
ment is to keep the bowels regular, and ad-
minister mild tonics, or alteratives, accompanied
with a nutritious diet; cleanliness, fresh air, and
moderate exercise are also essential. When
worms are the cause, attempts should be imme-
diately made to remove them.

BA CK', IVm/e.-—-Take a beef’s gall, pour it
into I pint alcohol, and bathe frequently. It
acts like a charm. Avoid the use of corsets and
all constrictions of dress.

19A THERS, Ap/zarism: fan—Avoid bathing
within two hours after a meal.

* Avoid bathing when exhausted by fatigue or
from any other cause.

Avoid bathing when the body is cooling after
perspiration; but

Bathe when the body is warm, provided no
time is lost in getting into the water.

Avoid chilling the body sitting or standing
naked on the bank or in boats after having been
in the water.

Avoid remaining too long in the water. 'Leave
the water immediately there is the slightest feel-
ing of chilliness.

Avoid bathing altogether in the open air if,
after having been a short time in the water, there
is a sense of chilliness with numbness of the hands
and feet.

The vigorous and strong may bathe early in
the morning on an empty stomach.

The young and those that are weak, had bet
ter bathe three hours after a meal. The best
time for such is from two to three hours after
breakfast.

Those who are subject to attacks of giddiness
and faintness, and those who suffer from alpi‘
tation and other sense of discomfort at the eart,
should not bathe without first consulting their
medical adviser.

BA T11, T It: roll—Temperature 35 to 65 de-
grees. The application of cold water to the sur~
face of the body is attended with an immediate
tonic effect. This is evident from the glow which
takes place and the sense of renewed strength in.
dicating an increased action in all the vessels ot
thesystem. The application of the cold water
possesses the power of contracting the sohd parts

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

of the body, and this contraction is followed by
a. reaction in which the nerves, bloodvessels and
all the organs of the system are excited to a more
healthy and energetic performance of their tune-
tions. The best method of taking a cold bath is
in the sea or in a river, and it is well not to pro-
tract the process, since the benefit derived
depends on the first impression the cold water
{makes on the skin and nerves.

I BA T11, T/t: S/zowcr.—— The shower bath is
most useful when there is any determination of
the fluids to the ‘he d. Several other reasons
may here be stated or the superiority of the
shower bath. The sudden contact of the water
which in the ordinary cold bath is but momentary,
may in the shower bath be prolonged, repeated,
and modified at pleasure. The first shock is re-
ceived on the head, and the blood is therefore
impelled downwards; the shower bath descends
in single streams and drops, and for this reason
is more stimulating andpleasant than immersion
in cold water. It is indeed an indefinite repe-
tition of the one single effect produced by a
plunge into cold water, and it is easily procured
and readily adapted to the circumstances of the
patient.

BA T17, T lze T epz'd.—The water for this bath
ought to be from 85 to 95 degrees of the thermo-
meter. The tepid bath has much efficacy in re-
ducing the general excitement, lessening the pul-
sation in fevers, and is of great service in pre-
gnancy and infancy. It is also very important
in complaints of the stomach and liver, in the
debility produced by long residence in hot cli-
mates, in the languor and weakness accompany-
ing delicate habits, and in gout, rheumatic affec-
tions, and cutaneous diseases. It is admirably
adapted for persons in advanced life. The best
period for the bath is the morning, between ten
and twelve o’clock.

BA T17, T 115 FVarm.—For this bath the water
should be from 93 to 98 degrees of heat. It is
of great utility in a variety of ailments, such as
inflammatory and rheumatic affections, diseases
of the skir, intestinal obstructions, nervous irri-
tation, and debility, whether constitutional or
arising from previous illness, intemperance, late
hours and hard study, or irregularity in diet or
exercise. Women, who are delicate, weak, and
nervous, may, with much confidence, expect re-
lief from the use of a warm bath. If the warm
bath is not interded to produce perspiration, it
can properly be used at any time from an hour
after breakfast till dinner, but if increased per-
spiration be the object the evening is the best
time for this bath, and the patient should be con-
veyed from the bath to a warm bed.

BA TIY, T be Hot—Temperature 98 to 104
degrees. Bathing in tepid and warm water has
a sedative effect. It excites the sensation of heat,
lowers the pulse, relaxes the skin, diminishes ex-
citement, and proves eminently refreshing. On
the contrary, hot baths are stimulating ; they
quicken the action of the heart, redden the skin,
make the respiration more frequent, and produce
copious perspiration.

BATH, T It! Vapor. — too to 115 degrees.
This species of bath is recommended for the same
classes of ailments for which the warm bath is
applicable, and it has not unfrequently succeeded
in producing the desired effect!) when warm bath-
ing has failed to do so.

BATH, Tfie T urki:lz.-—This bath, has been

 

209

greatly lauded, by those interested, as a perfect
panacea for all human ills, whereas it has been
proven by impartial judges that its use, only oc~
casionally, does grievous harm to the strength
of the person, and invariably retards a recovery
to perfect health. Every time a Turkish bath is
taken, the patient, whether healthy or sickly
looses a certain proportion of his vital force—of
his ability to generate life power, and in this
way, is lost the power to resist contagious or
inflamatory diseases. The lungs are also injured,
they cannot help being so, breathing such a
super-heated atmosphere as is attached to Turk-
ish baths. The healthy, and elastic tone of the
skin of the whole body is impaired. The most
effeminate, idle and unprogressive of all nations
—-the Turks—are made largely so, by the use of
this bath, (where it originated) and its almost in-
valuable accessories,— tobacco, coffee and licen-
tiousness.

BA T11, T 11: Rmrz'an.-——The remarks made
under the heading of Turkish Baths, apply with
equal force to the Russian, and should be avoid-
ed, by all who wish to keep their strength of
body intact, or to recover from sickness.

BILIO USNESS.—Persons subject to bilious
attacks should be particularly careful to avoid
excess in eating and drinking, and should espe-
cially avoid using those articles of food which,
from experience, they find to disagree with them.
Tea, coffee, chocolate, tobacco, alcoholic liquors
sugar, sweetened food, and grease in any shape,
if avoided will have a marked effect on a speedy
recovery. . ‘

BLOOD, Spiltz'ngof — I. Take two spoon-
fuls of the juice of nettles every morning, and a
large cup of the decoction of nettles at night, for
a week.—2. Take three spoonfuls of sage-juice
in a little honey. This presently stops either
spitting or vomiting blood.——3.' Take twenty
grains of alum in water every two hours.

BLOOD, Tramfzm‘on cy‘. -This operation
may be described in six parts:

Ist. Preparation. The points to be attented to.
are—to have a good light; the two subjects to
be operated on close to one another; two glasses
standing in a basin of water at temperature of.
29° R.; a bundle of fine, clean twigs; a fine
piece of linen to strain the blood through after
defibrination; a bistoury, scissors, thermometer,
sponges, restoratives, cold water. Also, a stout-
double thread, and ear-sound, or Dechampsche’
needle.

2d. Consists of bareing and binding the arm as:
for venesection ; choosing the largest vein; mak-
ing an incision one and a half inches long parallel'
and down to it. If there be any bleeding it must.
be checked by cold, and the vein, as it lies in the
centre of the cut, must be carefully dissected;
loose from the cellular tissue for about half an.
inch, and the double thread be passed under it.
A cold-water compress should now be laid on the-
wound.

The 3d act consists in drawing five or six oun-
ces of blood into one of the glasses, whipping it
five to eight minutes with the bundle o twigs,
and then straining it into the other glass.

The 4th act consists in placing the canula in.
the vein. The latter is drawn out of the wound
by the threads—the bandage having been pre-
vrously taken from the arm,and a V-shaped piece,
two lines long, cut out of the vein with the scis-
sors, or the vein cut half through. The canula.

I4

210

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

or tube of the syringe is now introduced, it hav-
ing been previously warmed and carefully filled
with blood, so that no air may be contained in it
(the point in this respect must be especially look-
ed to). When the tube is inserted the threads
must be tied around it tightly, so as to prevent
any escape of the blood. Some use a Nussbaum’s
or conical canula, which itself fills up the vein
and prevents any return of the blood.

The 5th act is the transfusion proper. The
blood must be forced into the vein very slowly
and carefully, always remembering the results of
the introduction of a little air. The point of the
warmed syringe should never be entirely emptied.
Ifa refilling of the syringe is required the vein
should be held just above the point of the canula.

I‘ he 6th act consists of placing a large wet
compress over the wound, and binding it firmly
by a roller bandage. Sticking—plaster and other
methods of drawing the lips of the wound to-
gether should be eschewed, as conducive to phle-
bitis.

Woman’s blood should always, if possible, be
used in injecting‘into a woman, man’s blood for
a man, although, if necessary, this precept may
be departed from. The blood should be taken
only from a strong, healthy individual. Blood
dcfibrinated by whipping is preferable to simple
blood, unless time be so important that the few
minutes occupied in preparing it are of conse-
quence. If simple blood be used, it must be
taken into the syringe as fast as it flows from the
veins, as exposure to the air favors greatly co-
agulation. .

BOILS.—Boils are first formed from a little
knot of veins, nerves, etc., as warts and corns.
It first shows itself in a small, tender, red spot,
which continues to enlarge for four or eight days,
when it opens and discharges a little pus and
blood, and exposes to view a mass of dead mat-
ter, called the core. In two or three days more
this comes away, and the cup-like cavity gradual-
ly fills up. When there are many of them in
succession, constitutional treatment is needed;
generally the blood lacks alkalies, which must

e supplied; or it may need iron. A boil should
always run its ,course, and should not be disturb-
ed, except to apply a flaxseed-poultice, when
painful. An incipient boil may be stopped by
touching it with lunar caustic. It is well to poul-
tice a boil for two or three days after it opens,
and after these a stimulating salve. To Prat/mt,
eat simple food, and less of it, and avoid grease,
sugar, and hot drinks.

BO WELS, Acute [nflammafion eff—This is an
inflammation of the mucous membrane which
lines them,as it is generally understood, but really
involves more or less the whole substance of the
bowel.—~Symptomr.—The disease begins with a
chill, and with uneasiness and slight gripingpains,
which increase in severity until they are intense
and burning. Pressure aggravates the pain,’
'which is greatest about the navel, but extends
over the whole bowel. There is sickness at the
stomach, and‘ sometimes vomi ing ; loss of
strength, costiveness, great anxiety, thirst, heat
and fever, dry, furred, and red tongue, and but
little urine, with pain in passing it. The matters
passed from the bowels are dark and fetid, and
the whole belly is sore to the touch. The pulse
is nick, hard, and small. If the stomach sym-
pat izes but little with the disease, it indicates
the seat of it to be in the lower portion of the

 

bowels. The length of time, also, before drink
and medicine are vomited up after being swal-
lowed, is a pretty sure indication of the distance
of the disease from the stomach. To discrimi-
nate this disease from colic, it is necessar to
know that pressure produces pain, which it oes
not in colic; the pain never wholly ceases, as it
does in colic; the knees are drawn up and the
breathing short, or altered, as they are not in
colic—TreatmenL—Hot tomentations, mustard-
poultices, soothing and quieting injections, cool-
ing drinks, such as slippery elm, flaxseed-tea,
etc., with tincture of veratrum viride in full
doses, or ten drops every hour, to kee upa.
free perspiration, will generally be all t at is
necessary. If the disease has been occasioned
by the strangulation of a gut, or by hernia, it is
very unmanageable. The gut may be disentan-

gled by applying a large dry cup, or, what is.

better, a number of small ones, but the tender-
ness of the belly makes this difficult.

BO PVELS, Cfiranic Inflammation qf.— The
signs of this disease are, a dull pain in the belly,
the tongue bordered with red, abdomen either
swelled or flat, skin dry and husky, cold extrem~
ities, small, frequent pulse, thirst, loss of flesh,
low spirits, scanty urine, slimy discharges from
the bowels from one to four times a day. The
treatment commences with mustard-poultices,
and hot fomentations. Cold compresses at night,
the body well covered up in flannel, should be
used if the bowels are very feverish. The warm
bath twice a week, taking care not to get cold.
The diet must be very simple and unstimulating
—beginning with gum water, rice or barley-
water, sago or arrow-root gruel, and gradually
raising it to chicken-broth, beef—tea or tender
beef-steak. Gentle carriage-exercise, as soon as
the patient is able, will prove beneficial. A very
mild laxative should be given on the inflamma-
tion being subdued.

BRA 11V, Inflammation qfl—Acute and general
inflammation of the brain has two stages. T 12:
stage 0’ excitement, in which there is intense and
deep-seated pain in the head, extending over a
large part of it, a feeling of tightness across the
fore-head, throbbing of the temporal arteries, a
flushed face, injected eyes, looking wild and
brilliant, contraction of the pupils, great shrink-
ing from light and sound, violent dellrium, want
of sleep, general convulsions, a parched and dry
skin, a quick and hard pulse, a white tongue,
thirst, nausea and vomiting, and constipation of
the bowels. T 12: Stage afrollajm, in which there
are indistinct mutterings, dull and perverted
hearing and vision, double vision, the pupil from
being contracted expands largely and becomes
motionless, twitchings of the muscles, tremors
and palsy of some of the limbs, a ghastly and
cadaverous countenance, cold sweats, profound
coma, and death. The disease will not show all
these symptoms in any one case. It runs a rapid
course, causing death, sometimes, in twelve or
twenty-four hours; or it may run two or three
weeks.-—-Trmlmmt.—The treatment should be
very energetic, and early administered. The
measures usually employed are cold water applica-
tions to the head; hot application to the feet, and
emptying the bowels by copious injections of
water.

BRAIZV, Enlargement qfi—This chiefly afi'ects
children, and consists in an unnatural growth of
the brain. The skull may grow with it, and there

 

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL

be no symptoms of disease, though children with
this large brain are apt to die of some brain
disease. The symptoms of enlargement of the
brain are, dullness of intellect, indifference to ex-
ternal objects, irritable temper, inordinate appe-
tite, giddiness, and habitual headache. Some‘
times there are convulsions, epileptic fits, and
idiocy. There is also a peculiar projection o
the parietal bones in this disease.— Treatment.
As much as possible, repress all exercise of the
mind. Do not suffer the child to go to school;
but put it to the most . active and muscular exer-
cise in the open air. The moment there is any
heat in the top of the head, apply cold water, ice,
or cold, evaporatinglotions. The diet should be
very simple, bread and milk only, if, as the child
ows up, the signs of disease increase.

BRAIZV, Softening qfi—VVhen this follows
inflammation, the most marked symptom is the
rigid contraction of the muscles which draw up
the limbs; the hand may be clenched and pressed
against the shoulder; or the heel drawn up to
the hip. The other sym toms are—tingling and
numbness in the ends 0 the fingers; perverted
vision, or blindness; paralysis of one limb, or
half of the body; difficulty of answering ques-
tions; forgetfulness, making it difficult some-
times for the patient to remember his own name.

BREA 771', Retiri— Scarcely any thing is

more disagreeable or disgusting than a stinking
breath. Various means have been proposed to
remove this annoyance, depending principally on
the administration of aromatics, which by their
odor might smother it for a time; but these re-
quire continual repetition, and are liable to in-
terfere with the functions of digestion. The real
cause of a stinking breath is either a diseased
stomach or carious teeth ; when the former is the
case aperients should be administered; and if
these do not succeed, an emetic may be given,
followed by a dose of salts, or castor oil occasion-
ally. When rotten teeth are the cause, they
should be removed; or, if this be impossible,
they should be kept clean. Dirty teeth often
cause the breath to smell. The use of the tooth—
brush should be a daily habit. Occasionally
'rinsing out the mouth with a little clean water,
to which a few drops of a solution of chloride of
lime, or chloride of soda, has been added, is an
effective method. The following lozenges have
also been recommended :—

BREA T [1, (FE T ID) Lozenges find—Gum
catechu, 2 oz. ; white sugar, 4 oz.; orris powder,
I oz.; make them into a paste with mucilage, and
add a dro or two of neroli. One or two may
be sucke at pleasure.

BREA S T S, Cheri—Boil a handful of camo-
mile, and as much mallows in milk and water.
Foment with it between two flannels, as hot as
can be borne, every twelve hours. It also dis‘
solves any knot or swelling in any part where
there is no inflammation.

BRIGHTS DISEASE, Milk in.—Dr. Ar-
thur Scott Donkin extols a skim-milk diet in
this disease. “The first appreciable action”,
he says, “of skim-milk taken to the extent of six
or seven pints daily, is that of a most energetic
diuretic, a profuse flow of urine being rapidly
produced. The effect of this, in Bright’s disease,
15 to flush the uriniferous tubules, and to dislodge
and wash out the concrete casts of diseased epi-
thelial cells by which they are blocked up and
distended. This emptying of the tubules relieves

 

21!

their pressure on the surrounding secondar ca.
pillaries ; the blood begins to flow mone reely
through them; the distension of the primary
Malpighian capillaries is relieved, less and less
albumen escapes through their walls until the
renal circulation is gradually restored, when it
finall disa pears from the urine. While this

f bene cial c ange is progressing, healthy epi—

thelium is developed in the tubules, and the urin -
ary excrement is withdrawn from the bleed. In
short, a healthy nutrition becomes re-established
in the kidneys through the agency of milk, which,
above all other substances, seems to exercise a
controlling influence over this process.

BRONCIIOCELE, (Enlarged neck.) —— To
cure take iodide of potassium, 2drs.; iodine, I dr..;
water, 2% 025.; mix and shake a few minutes
and pour a little into a. vial for internal use.—-
Dam—Five to ten drops before each meal, to be
taken in a little watch—External application.—
With a feadier wet the enlarged neck, from the
other bottle, night and morning, until well.

31? 0A7 C111 T15, Acute—This disease begins
with chills followed by fever; tightness across
the chest, difficulty of breathing, hoarseness,
loss ofstrength, costive bowels, and a quick, hard
pulse. Water runs from the eyes and nostrils,
and there is a dry, harsh, croupy cough. After
a few days mucus begins to be raised, which is
thick and ropy, and occasionally streaked with
blood. There is more or less pain in the chest;
pain across the forehead, increased by coughing,
and a pale, anxious countenance. In severe
cases there is a tightness across the chest, causing
the patient to call for the windows to be opened,
to avoid suffocation. There is difficultyof breath-
ing, a paleness and lividity of the cheeks and
lips; a loud wheezing and rattling in the throat, .
followed by cold sweat, insensibility and death.—
T 7mz‘mmz‘.—In mild cases, give warm fiaxseed
or balm-tea, or hot lemonade—at the same time
soaking the feet in warm water, and on retiring
to bed, placing bottles of hot water to the feet
and sides to produce sweating. If the bowels
be costive, give rhubarb and magnesia, or salts
and senna. In severe cases, an active emetic is
needed, followed by tincture of veratrum viride in
full doses, so as to reduce the pulse. The room
should be kept warm, and the air should be moist,
if there is difficulty of breathing. A gentle per-
spiration should be kept up, either by compound
tincture of Virginia snake-root, by tincture ofver-
atrum, or by frequent bathing of the surface. A
mustard—paste on the chest, and soles of the feet, is
important; and the diet should be of barley-water,
toast-water, rice-water, or a solution of gum-arabic.
The cough may be managed by a mixture of tinc-
ture of lobelia, half an ounce; syrup of squills,
half an ounce. Mix and give twenty drops four
or five times a day.

BUJVION.—The bunion, or swelling on the
ball of the great toe, is produced by the same
cause as the corn— ressure and irritation by
friction. It may be checked in their early deve-
lopment by binding the joint with adhesive

laster and keeping it on as long as any uneas-
iness is felt. The bandaging should be perfect,
and it might be well to extend it round the foot.
An inflamed bunion should be poulticed, and
larger shoes be worn. Iodine, twelve grains;
lard or s ermaceti ointment, half an ounce, makes
a capita ointment for bunions. It should be
rubbed on gently twice or thrice a day.

212

DICTIONARY 0F EVER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

BUR YING [1.1 VE.—To know when death
has really occurt d and so prevent burying alive
hold a lighted ca. Idle to any portion of the body,
a blister will soon rise; if on puncture it gives
out a fluid substance, death has not taken place ;
ifit emits air only, it is perfectly certain that life
has become entirely extinct, for which we offer
but one reason among others, in case of actual
death the blood is congealed in a sense,
there is no moisture, simplya little air, this being
rarified under the flame, raises up the skin; if
there is life, the flame causes an inflammation
and nature, in her alarm, sends increased mate-
rial there for repair, a kind of glairy fluid, and
this being sent there in excess, causes the skin
to rise; inability to feel the pulse or heart beat;
cold skin, no dew on a bit of glass, none of these
are conclusive, as there has been life, when none
of these were observed.

CANCER, Treatment of.-——Cancer has two
stages: that of induration or stony hardness ; the
second, ulceration or open cancer. Cancer most
often attacks the female breast, the skin, the
tongue, the stomach, the neck of the womb,
the lips, etc. It rarely occurs in subjects under
thirty—five years of age, and not often in persons
under forty-five.

The symptoms of' cancer in the breast are, a
puckered condition, and a dull, leaden color of
the skin,ahard, knotty, and uneven feel, and
occasional sharp pains. When it attacks the skin
and mucous membrane, there is ahard, warty
lump, which ulcerates after a time, producing an
open sore, with a hard base. The sore discharges
an irritating, excoriating matter, which has a pe-

. culiarly fetid odor, so offensive and so different
from any other smell that it is seldom forgotten.

Various modes of treating cancer have been,
at different times, recommended by the faculty
and empirics. Among these, extirpation with
the knife appears to be most in favor with the
former, when practicable. The removal of the
tumor does not, however, destroy the constitu-
tional taint, although it may lessen its intensity,
and render the subsequent treatment of the dis-
ease less difficult. Recently, the application of
intense cold has been highly recommended in
cancerous affections of the glands. Alittle pound-
ed ice is tied up in the corner of a thin silk hand-
kerchief or a piece of bladder, and the “pad”
thus formed pressed gently against the tumor
and the parts immediately adjacent for a short
time, once or twice a day. The degree of cold
may be increased by mixing an equal weight
of common salt with the pounded ice, by which
the benumbing effect of the application will be
greatly augmented. It should be frozen solid to
its roots, after which the skin should be carbo-
lized to insensibility, and a crucial incision made
down to, but not into, the tumor, in which the
caustic, consisting of chloride of zinc; carbolic
acid, and tannin, is to be inserted and allowed
to remain five hours, after which time it becomes
very painful and should be removed. Then cover
with a mild poultice. In four or five days the
cancerous mass will slough off.

The reason why a cancerous tumor should not
be cut into, nor cut around, is, that the minute
germs, cells, or molecules, which constitute its
nuclei, may be diffused into the adjacent struc-
ture, and in a few months reproduce the cancer;
and this is why the ordinary practice of surgeons
in cutting them out never cures, while the caustic

 

treatment if properly managed, destroys these
germs. and results in permanent recovery.
CANCER, Oflztr Remedies fir. -—Common
salt has been put forth as a remedy by Col. Us-
sory, of De Soto, who says he learned the secret
of a Spanish woman. His mode of using this
remedy is as follows: Take an egg and break it,
pour out the white, retaining the yolk in the
shell, put in salt, mix it with the yolk as long as
it will receive it, and stirr them together until a
salve is formed; put a portion of this on a piece
of sticking plaster, and apply it to the cancer
twice or thrice a day. He says that he has tried
the remedy twice in his own family, with com-
plete success—2. The following is said to be a
sure cure for cancer: A piece of sticking plaster
is put over the cancer, with a circular piece cut
out of the centre, a little larger than the cancer,
so that the cancer and a small circular rim of
healthy skin next to it is exposed. Then a
plaster, made of chloride of zinc, bloodroot, and
wheat flour, is spread on a piece of muslin the
size of this circular opening, and applied to the
cancer for twenty-four hours. On removing it,
the cancer will be found burned into and appear
of the color and hardness of an old shoe sole, and
the circular rim outside of it will appear white
and parboiled, as if scalded by hot steam. The
wound is now dressed, and the outside rim soon
separates, and the cancer comes out in a hard
lump and the place heals up. The plaster kills
the cancer, so that it sloughs like dead flesh, and
never grows again. The remedy was discovered
by Dr. Fell, of London, and has been used by
him for six or eight years with unfailing success,
and not a case has been known of the reappear-
ance of the cancer when this remedy has been
applied—3. A salve made from the juice of the
wood sorrel, gathered in a green state, the juice
expressed and evaporated to the consistency of a
paste, on a pmterp/az‘e. in the sun, and applied
to the cancerous part, will, -—it is said—
successfully remove the diseased part. The
oxalic acid of the plant acts upon the lead, and
the product is a salve which operates with more
healing power on cancerous sores than anything
so easily obtained—4. Boil fine Turkey figs in
new milk, which they will thicken; when they
are tender, split, and apply them, as warm as can
be borne, to the part affected, whether broken or
not; the part must then be washed, every time
the poultice is changed, with some of the milk;
use a fresh poultice night and morning, and at
least once during the day, and drink a quarter of
a pint of the milk the figs are boiled in, twice in '
the twentyfour hours. If the stomach will bear
it,this must be persevered in three or four decades
at least. The first application gives a good deal
of ain, but afterwards each dressing gives relief.
—- . The latest discovered remedy is aplant call-
ed “cundurango” discovered in Ecquador. This
is said to be a specific, but from the limited use of
it at this date of writing, it is impossible to p0.
sitively determine its supposed specific qualities.
CANKER.——To cure take 1 large teas oonful
of water, 2 teaspoonfuls of honey, 2 of loa sugar,
3 of powdered sage, 2 of powdered goldthread,
and I of alum. Stir up all together; put into a
vessel, and let it simmer moderately over a steady
fire. An oven is better. Then bottle for use.
Give a teaspoonful occasionally through the dag.
CARBUNCLE.—This is a large and pain 1
boil, having a surface more flat than a. b011, and

 

l
.
t
t

. to keep up the disease.

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

greater inflammation. The constitutional symp-
toms are also more severe. It generally appears
on the thighs, back or buttock, and goes through
the same process as a boil, only discharging a
much larger core. To treat make an incision the
full extent of the carbuncle, and stuff it with cot-
ton saturated with pure carbolic acid, also paint-
ing the whole surface of the hardened mass with
the acid. This will be followed with a sharp,
burning sensation for a few minutes, after which
the pain will subside completely and will not
again appear. In the same way the insertion of the
acid is to be renewed daily until a cure is effected.

CA T ARRII. —Catarrh is generally only a
cold—if it becomes chronic it assumes a dif-
ferent form. The phlegm or waste matter be-
comes acrid and almost poisonous, and serves
The phlegm or waste
matter appears to be matter which is not carried
off by the usual channels. The remedy when the
catarrh is not of long standing is the same as
for a cold—restore the perspiration. This can be
done by drinking warm gruel, or hot lemonade,
and putting the feet in hot water, and going to
bed immediately. Or by wringing out a towel
in tepid water and applying to the throat and
chest, putting two or three dry ones over it, so
that the chest and throat are well covered. \Varm
drinks help this also. The hot air bath, made
by putting a lamp on the floor, and sitting over
it in loose but warm clothing, the whole care-
fully surrounded by blankets, is also a good
process. Of course it needs to be carefully con-
ducted. Its purpose is also to induce perspira-
tion. Sometimes a cold runs into catarrh by
such slow degrees as not to be noticed until the

atient begins to feel as if there were a thread or
hair in the roof of his mouth or throat. This is
the beginning of chronic catarrh. The phlegm
is becoming a source of disease. In connection
with the above any of the following local appli-
cation may be used.—l. Snuff strong salt water
three times a day; draw up into the nostrils from
the palm of the hand all that can be taken, then
close the nostrils andretain the salt water as long as
it can be endured. It is quite painful, but the
cure depends wholly upon this. Cleanse the part
affected thoroughly each time it is used—2. Dr.
Pallon, a French physician, has discovered that
ammonia inhaled through the nose will cure
catarrh. If the case is severe, the inhalation
should be continued until the sense of smell is
restored, when it should cease for a minute, and
then re-applied for a shorter period, and so re-
peated seven or eight times in the course of five
minutes—3. Take one part finely pulverized salt—
petre, and mix with two parts white sugar re-
duced to flour. It must be snuffed up the nose
a dozen times or more a day, according to the
severity of the affection.

CA US T 1 CS, New Made of Using—The ex-
treme danger of conveying infection on the point
of a frequently used pencil of caustic, will recom-
mend this simple device to the medical profes-
sion: Take a bundle of splints of wood, similar
to lucifer matches; dip the ends in melted cau-
stic. seperate them, and allow them to dry. A
fresh match of caustic may be used for each ap-
plication, and a fine caustic point is thus always
at hand. Lunar and carbolic acid, and all the
solid caustic bodies, may be used in this manner.

CHAFIN G, Remedy fine—Among the annoy-
ances to which persons of an obese physique are

 

:13

subject in hot weather, especially if they walk
much, is chafing in those parts where a con-
glomeration of muscles unite. Nothing is better,
as a remedy and also as a preventive, than a
lotion of alum in water. It should be applied
with a soft linen or cotton rag at night, before
retiring. A piece of alum as large as a hazel nut,
dissolved in half a pint of water is sufficient. It
will quickly heal excoriated skin and harden the
unabraded cuticle. The use of this for years
with the most beneficial results, is sufficient
authority for trial of this simple remedy. It is
good also for tender feet and soft corns.

CIIILBLAIJVS.—An inflammatory swelling,
of a purple or lead color, produced by the action
of cold. Children, especially those of a scrof-
ulous habit, and elderly persons are generally
most liable to chilblains. The common cause of
chilblains is holding the hands or feet to the fire,
after exposure to cold. The sudden change of
temperature partially destroys the vitality and
prevents the proper flow of blood through the
part. The best preventives of chilblains are
woollen socks or stocking, good waterproof
shoes, woollen gloves, exercise and ,friction.
Among the cures for chilblains, are the following
recipesz—I. Sulphate of copper, (blue vitriol),
I 02.; rosemary water, I pt. Dissolve. Apply
as a wash—2. Sal ammoniac, I 02.; vinegar, %
pt.——3. Sal ammoniac, I 02.; rum, % pt.; cam-
phor, I dr. The affected part is wetted night
and morning, and when dry, is touched with a
little simple ointment of any kind—cold cream
or pomatum.—4. Oil of turpentine, 2 02.; cam-
phor, 3 dr.; oil of cajeput, I dr. Apply with
friction.—5, Sulphate of copper, 20 gr.; water,
I 02. As a wash, and twice a day.—6. Hydro-
chloric acid, I 02.; water, It oz.—7. Olive oil,
2 02.; white wax, 2 dr.; dissolved by the aid of
heat; balsam of Peru, 1 dr.; hydrochloric acid,
2 dr. Mix well. To be used for unbroken
blains.—8. Olive oil, % pt.; white spermaceti, %
02.; camphor, ‘2 02.; mix with heat; add hydro-
cloric acid, 12 fluid 02. For unbroken blains
and good—9.—1\’umian remedy—The rind of
perfectly ripe cucumbers, with part of the flesh
of the fruit tied on, having previously been soak-
ed in warm water, with the inner side toward the
affected part.

All the above are for unbroken chilblains.—
Io. For broken blains. Black oxide of iron, 1
dr.; bole, I dr.; oil of turpentine, I dr.; bees-
wax, % 02.; rosin, % 02.; sweet oil, % 02.; or
better still :—II. Rosin, I 02.; beeswax, 1% 02.;
sweet oil, 3 02.; calamine, (prepared carbonate
of lead) % 02. All but the last are melted to-
gether, and the last gradually stirred in until it
is cool. Any bottom sediment is rejected.

Of all the recipes above given, we think the
last the most valuable.

CHILDREIV, Care of: —- Dress children
warmly, woolen flannel next their person during
the whole year. By every consideration, protect
the extremities well. It is an ignorant barbarism
that allows a child to have bare arms, and legs,and
feet, even in summer. The circulation should
be invited to the extremities ; warmth does that;
cold repels it. It is at the hands and feet we
begin to die. Those who have eold hands and
feet are never well. Plenty of warmth, plenty
of substantial food and ripe fruits, and lenty of
joyous out-door exercise, would save 'ons of

children annually.

2:4

CHLOROFORM, T o prevent Dart/1 from.—
Experiments on inferior animals show that they
may be restored from apparent death from chlo-
roform by the continuous galvanic current, the
negative pole being put in the mouth and the po-
sitive pole in the rectum. In some cases the
animal was left for two minutes in a state of ap-
parent death and then restored.

CHOLERA.—The symptoms in this disease
are, a derangement in the digestive organs, pain
in the loins or knees, twitchings of the calves of

'the legs, impaired appetite, thirst, and a slight

diarrhea. These may last from a few hours to
several days. It has been recently averred that
the pulse is down to forty or fifty beats a min-
ute for several days before the attack. In the
second stage there is vomiting and purging of a
thin, whitish fluid, severe cramps in the legs, and
in the bowels and stomach. By these cramps the
muscles are drawn into knots. The tongue
is pale andmoist ; the pulse feeble, though some-
times full and firm; the breathing hurried, with
distress about the heart; great thirst, with a feel—
ing of internal warmth; and the secretion of
urine entirely stopped. The watery portion of
the blood is soon run off, and the patient sinks
into the third stage, which is characterized by
great prostration; pulse hardly perceptible; skin
cold and clammy; face blue or purple, and eyes
sunken; hands dark-colored and sodden; breath-
ing short and laborious; great heat in the
stomach, and intense thirst. Recoveries from
this stage seldom take place. T rmtmmt.—The
usual treatment of this disease is with laudanum,
administered every three hours, in doses of five
to ten drops, to check the diarrhea, in the first
stage; and to give chloroform, opium, and other
powerful narcotics. Pills made of pulverized
camphor, half a dram; pulverized opium, sixteen
grains; pulverized cayenne, half a dram, made
into sixteen pills, and taken, one every hour, is
a opular and often effectual remedy. It is as
o ten, however, that the stimulants without the
narcotics effect a cure. Brandy and cayenne,
given freely, have proven very potent to arrest
the disease. To these must be added warming
injections; and the whole surface of the body
must be warmed by hot bottles or bricks, by
rubbing with flannel, and tincture of cayenne.
The treatment must always be very active, as the
disease makes rapid'progress.

CHOLERA AlORb’US.—This disease be—
gins with sickness and distress at the stomach,
succeeded by violent gripings, with vomiting of
thin, dirty-yellowish, whitish, or greenish fluid,
with discharges from the bowels similar to that
vomited. The nausea and distress continue
between the vomiting and purging, and the pain
at times is intense. The pulse is rapid, soon
becoming small and feeble, the tongue dry, the
urine high-colored, and there is much thirst,
though no drink can be retained on the stomach.

T reatmmt.—Apply a large mustardopoultice
over the stomach and liver. Give large drafts
of warm teas, by which means the stomach will
be cleansed of all its solid contents. Every
half-hour give tablespoonful doses of the com-
pound powder of rhubarb and potassa, until the
vomiting is checked. Warm injections must be
given frequently, and hot bricks applied to the
feet, while the whole body should be swathed in
warm flannels. To get u a warmth of the body

and the stomach, is, in act, the most important

 

DI C T] ONA R Y OF E VER Y—DA Y WANTS.

thing in this disease. Hot brandy, in which is
a dose of cayenne, is excellent, to quiet the
vomiting and griping. A few drops of laudanum
in the injections may be given, if the pain is ex-
cessive; but generally it is not needed.

COLD, T o avoid catching—Accustom your-
self to the use of sponging with cold water every
morning on first getting out of bed. It Should
be followed with a good deal of rubbing with a
wet towel. It has considerable effect in giving
tone to the skin, and maintaining a proper action
in it, and thus proves a safeguard to the in-
jurious influence of cold and sudden changes of
temperature. Sir Astley Cooper said: “The
methods by which I have preserved my own
health are—temperance, early rising, and spong-
ing the body every morning with cold water, irn~
mediately after getting out of bed; a practice
which I have adopted for thirty years without
ever catching cold.”

COLD, To put hula—So soon as you feel
that you are taking a cold—and you will generally
have notice before it amounts to much—place
your feet into water made as warm as you can
bear; and keep them there about ten minutes.
Change them, then, into a vessel containing cold
water—if icewater, all the better—and hold them
into it about one minute; after which wipe dry
and put on warm stockings.

C OLD, To cum—Before retiring soak the
feet in mustard water as hot as can be endured,
and to bear it at any great temperature, the feet
should at first be plunged in a pail half full of
lukewarm water, adding by degrees very hot
water until the desired heat is arrived at; of
course the upper part of the body and the knees
should be well protected with a blanket. On
getting into bed take a hot camphor sling. Take
with one tablespoonful of white sugar twelve or
fourteen drops of strong spirits of camphor,
with two tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Rub
the bridge of the nose between the eyes with a
little oil. Cuddle in bed and sleep it off.

COLIC, 13]L10US.—This is a dangerous
disease. There is griping, twisting, tearing
pain, about the navel or sometimes over the
whole belly. It comes and goes by paroxysms.
Sometimes the abdomen is drawn in, at other
times swelled out, and stretched like adrumhead.
At first, the pain is relieved by pressure. but
after a time the belly grows tender to the touch.
There is thirst and heat, and a discharge of
bilious matter from the stomach. In the worst
cases, the pulse is small, the face pale, the features
shrunk, and the whole body covered with a cold
sweat. It is caused by irritating articles taken
into the stomach, vitiated bile, long exposure to
cold, torpid liver and skin, great unnatural heat,
etc.—Tmzz‘menl.—Administer an active purgat-
ive injection immediately. Give a mixture of
pulverized camphor, four grains; cayenne, twelve
grains; white sugar, one scruple. This, divided
into four powders, and given once in fifteen
minutes, will relieve the pain—at the same time
mustard-poultice should be laid upon the belly.
The sickness of stomach may be allayed by hot
drafts over the stomach, in which are afew drops
of laudanum. Also on the feet. Croton oil,
one drop done up in a crumb of bread, will often
purge successfully; or castor oil and spirits or
turpentine, equal parts, in two great-spoonful
doses, may be used before trying the other. A
warm bath is good, and bottles filled with hot

 

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

215

 

water, placed at the feet and sides, to promote
perspiration.

COL/C, WIND.—This is a severe and dis-
tressing pain in the bowels, sometimes a stop-
page, and swelling about the pit of the stomach
and navel. The complaint may be caused by
weakness in the digestive organs, by indigestible
food, unripe fruit, or costiveness.—Treatment.—
If the pain is caused by having eaten any thing
indigestible, an emetic should be immediately
taken. If this does not bring relief, a dose of
salts, or sweet tincture of rhubarb may. If there
is no sickness at the. stomach, a little essence of
peppermint in water, may be sufficient to expel
the wind and give relief. If there be costiveness,
and continued pain, a stimulating injection should
be given.

C OLIC, LEAD.—Is a disease to which pain-
ters, and workers in red and white lead, are sub-
iect, causing severe pains, tedious sickness, and
often death. The disease is partially owing per-
haps to breathing the fumes, but mainly from
particles taken into the stomach by the food
which is handled. Workmen can effect a total
exemption from the disease by attending rigidly
to three things—I. Keep the finger nails trimm-
ed closely so as to prevent particles of lead from
collecting under them and transference to the
bread in eating it.——-2. Wash the hands well with
soap and water, and rinse the mouth before eat-
ing—3. Drink half a pint of sweet milk at each
meal to antagonize the influence of any particles
of lead which may find their way into the stomach.
It has been found in thousands of cases that an
habitual attention to these things secures an en-
tire exemption from lead colic.

CONSUMPTION—Its symptoms and effects
are only too well known. It remains only to be
said, that where any such tendency exists, much
may be done toward preventing its development,
by attention to the general laws of health. Fresh
air, out‘door exercise, cheerful company, and all
things that promote our best condition of health,
will do something toward warning off this dis-
ease, or even to cure it.

CONS UMPTIOZV, Remedy find—The follow-
ing is said to be an effectual remedy, and will in
time completely eradicate the disorder. Live
temperately—avoid spirituous liquors—wear flan-
nel next the skin—and take, every morning,
half a pint of new milk, mixed with a wine-glass-
ful of the expressed juice of green hoarhound.
One who has tried it says—“Four weeks’ use of
the hoarhound and milk relieved the pains of my
breast, gave me ability to breathe deep, long, and
free, strengthened and harmonized my voice, and
restored me to a better state of health than I
had enjoyed for years.”

C ORNS, T a cum—Corns are entirely owing
to continued pressure, such as wearing small
boots or shoes. At first they are the production
of the outer skin only, but b gradually thick-
ening they at length come to e connected with
the true skin beneath, and even with the subja-
cent muscles. Prevention is better than cure.
Wear woollen stockings, and see that there is no
local and permanent pressure on any art of the
foot.—To cure :—-I. Put the feet forha t an hour,
two or three successive ni hts, in a solution of
soda—two tablespoonfuls ogsoda, in a small foot
tub of hot water. The alkali dissolves the in-
durated cuticle, and the corns fall out.—2. Tie a
piece of raw cotton to the com, and wet it several

 

times a day with spirits of turpentine; this will,
in three days, cure the corn without the least ap-
parent pain.——3. Soak the feet in warm water,
pare ofi’ as much as possible of the horny part of
the corn, then lay upon it a moistened wafer,
and again upon this a piece of buckskin, with a
hole cut through it the size of the corn. Renew
the moist wafer twice a day, and in a few days
the corn will work out—4. To cure corns, take
a lemon, cut a piece of it off, then nick it so as
to let in the toe with the corn. Tie this on at
night so that it cannot move, and you will find
the next morning that, with a blunt knife, the
corn will come away to a certain extent. Two
or three applications will effect a thorough cure.
—5. The strongest acetic acid, applied night and
morning with a camel’s hair brush. In one week
the corn will disappear.—6. Dissolve glue as you
would to mend furniture; spread it on the corns;
place muslin rags over them to prevent the glue
from sticking to the stocking; repeat the appli—
cation a few times, and the cure will be effectual.

C ORNS, 50F T, To tuna—Soft corns may
also be easily removed by applying ivy leaf pre-
viously soaked in strong Vinegar, changing the
piece every morning; or by placing a dressing of
soap cerate, spread on a bit of lint or old rag, be-
tween the toes. Or take a piece of cotton ju'st
large enough to fit comfortably between the toes,
spread it out and sprinkle prepared chalk over
it; then roll it up and place between the toes
where the corn is. The cotton and chalk absorb
the moisture from the toe, and, by keeping the
corn dry, soon effects a cure.

COSTIVENESS, (Comtz'pation).—This is a
sluggish state of the bowels which causes them
to retain the feces longer than warrented by
health, is a very common disorder. In this
complaint, it is not always the case that the dis-
charges from the bowels are less frequent than
they should be, but they may be less in quan-
tity, hard, compacted, and passed with difficulty.
It occasions headache, dizziness, feverishness,
and bad feelings in the head not easily described,
loss of appetite, sometimes nausea, but little de—
sire to go to stool, aweight and heaviness about
the lower part of the belly, and a sense of con-
finement over the whole body. The disorder is
caused by sedentary habits, especially when con—
nected with close application of the mind, astring-
ent medicines, stimulating diet, nervous diseases,
and irregular habits of evacuating the bowels. '

T reatmmt.—The first thing to be done is to
establish the habit of attempting to evacuate the
bowels at a particular hour everyday. The best
hour for most people is just after breakfast in the
morning. Whether successful or not, the effort
should on no account be omitted, as this regu-
larity will do much to break up the costive habit.
To this should be added a diet composed of the
most digestible food. Bread made from unbolted
flour is the only suitable bread in this disorder.
Fresh vegetables and fruit are the proper diet;
and uddings, cakes, doughnuts, etc., must be
avoi ed until a cure is effected. Exercise, not
to fatigue, between meals is important. Frequent
bathing, and water injections, are the most cer-
tain and simple remedies. The injection should
be taken just before going to stool, at the regular
hour, and whenever the disposition to evacuate
the bowels is felt, until the are able to relieve
themselves without much e ort.

COLD in the HEAD.—According to an

216 DICTIONARY OFEVER Y~DA Y WANTS.

 

eminent French physician, a cold in the head can
be cured by inhaling hartshorn. The inhalation
should be by the nose, seven or eight times in
five minutes.

, C OUGHS AND COLD, Remedies fox—I.
Drop 3 eggs in l pint of vinegar, and let them
stand for three days, then add % pound of hon-
ey, and mix well together. Bottle tight, and
take a wine-glassful night and morning. This
remedy is unequalled—2. Take one teacup of
flaxseed, soak all night. In the morning put in
a kettle, 2 quarts of water, a handful, split up, of
licorice root, % of a pound of good raisins, broke
in half. Let them boil until the strength is thor-
oughly, extracted, then add the flaxseed, which
has been previously soaked. Let all boil about
half an hour more, watching and stirring, that
the mixture may not burn. Then strain and add
lemon-juice and sugar to taste. Take any quan-
tity, cold, through the day, and half a thimble-
ful, warm, at night.—3. A coffee-cup of flaxseed,
2 quarts of water, boil several hours until reduc-
ed to a jelly; strain through a thin cloth, squeeze
in the pulp and juice of alarge lemon; roll % of
a pound of the best raisins, mix them in the Jelly,
simmer, without boiling, one hour; strain again,
add half a teacup of the best loaf-sugar. Take a
tablespoonful every hour.

C 0 U G'HS, Sormm or 1701171957135: from.—
Spikenard root, bruised and steeped in a tea-pot,
by using half water and half spirits ; then inhal-
ing the steam, when not to hot, by breathing
through the spout, will relieve the soreness and
hoarseness of the lungs, or throat, arising from
much coughing.

C 0 U011, WI] 00P1NG.—-The attack gene-
rally begins as a common cold, with slight feverish
symptoms. In eight or ten days the fever par-
tially subsides, and the child gets attacks of con-
vulsive coughing, accompanied by the peculiar
“whoop” which gives the disease its name. The
number of attacks varies from one or two to ten,
or even fifteen in the twenty-four hours, accord-
ing to the severity of the disease. The child
should be kept in a warm room. He ought to
be clothed in flannel ; his diet should be light
and nourishing, such as fish, milk, light puddings,
and new-laid eggs.

When the severity of the disease has passed
off, change of air will be found most useful; and
if the child has become debilitated, tonics with
nutritious diet should be given.

This disease being very infectious, great care
should he taken to prevent communication of any
kind with houses where there are children who
have not already had whooping~cough.

- C0 UGH WHOOPIZVG, Remedies fort—I.
Into half a pint of white vinegar break a freshly
laid egg: when the egg is dissolved, add half a
pound of rock candy. Dose from three to four
tablespoonfuls per day.—2. Onions and garlics,
sliced, of each I gill; sweet oil, I gill; stew them
in the oil, in a covered dish, to obtain the juices;
then strain and add honey, I gill; paregoric and
spirits of camphor, of each % 02.; bottle and cork
tight for use. Dose—For a child of 2 or 3 years,
I tea-spoon 3 or 4 times daily, or whenever the
cough is troublesome, increasing or lessening,
according to age—3. Mix a quarter of a pound
of ground elecampane root in half a pint of strain-
ed honey and half a pint of water. Put them in
a glazed earthen pot, and place it in a stone oven,

with half the heat required to’bake bread. Let

 

it bake until about the consistence of strained
honey, and take it out. Administer in doses of
a teaspoonful before each meal, to a child; if an
adult, double the dose.

CROUP. —- Crou seldom comes on sud-
denly. Generally it as at first no other symp-
toms than those of a common cold, but the very
moment the child is seen to carry his hands
towards his throat, indicating discomfort there,
it should be considered an attack of croup, and
should be treated accordingly. In this disease,
speedy action is important. The best treatment
is by water. Immediately put cold, wet cloths
upon the throat, and upper part of the chest,
covered warme by flannel, over the cloth.
Change them often. Keep the wet cloths on un-
til the inflammation is subdued. The momenta
mother observes croupy symptoms in a child
from two to eight years, the especially croupy
age, she should keep the child in her own room,
by her own side, day and night, not allowing it
for a moment to go outside of the doors, keeping
it comfortably warm, so that no chilliness or
draft of air shall come over it. Light food should
be eaten, no meats, hot bread or berries. The
whole body, the feet especially, should be kept
warm all the time.

CA’O UP, Otlzer Remedies for. —— I. Let a
healthy person fill his lungs with pure air, then
slowly breathe upon the patients throat and chest,
commencing at the point of the chin, and mov-
ing slowly down to the bottom of the windpipe.
Repeat for a few minutes and it will give relief
in cases where all other means faiI.—2. Cut
onions into thin slices; between them but brown
sugar and let it dissolve; a teaspoonful of the syr-
up will give instant relief.

DEAFNESS.—When deafness is present in
infancy and childhood, it is accompanied with
dumbness, or imperfect articulation, in conse-
quence of the impossibility of conveying a know-
ledge of the sounds necessary for the exercise of
the imitative faculty of speech. A common
cause of deafness is some imperfection or 0b.
struction of the passage leading to the membrane
of the tympanum or drum of the ear. In some
cases this passage is totally occluded by a mem-
brane, or some malformation of the tube, which
may frequently be removed by a surgical oper-
ation. Even instances of partial obliteration of
this passage have occurred, which have been
efl‘ectually cured. A more frequent cause of
deafness is, however, the presence of foreign
bodies in the aural passages, or the accumulation
of hardened wax. In these cases the best
treatment is to inject warm water into the ear by
means of a proper syringe, the head being placed
with that side upwards during the operation.
Insects may be destroyed by pouring a spoonful
of warm olive oil, or camphorated oil, into the
ear over night, retaining it there until the next
morning by means of a piece of cotton wool,
when it may be washed out with alittle mild
soap and warm water. When there is a deficient
secretion of wax, or a dryness of the aural pas-
sage, mild oleaginous stimulants should be em-
ployed. For this urpose a little olive or almond
oil, to which a Few drops of oil of turpentine,
oil of juniper, or camphor liniment, have been
added, may be used with advantage. When
deafness is accompanied with continued acute
pain, or a discharge of a purulent matter, in-
flammation of the tympanum, or some other

. ._ ,._.‘s:n-‘.Sqn:\-S—1’Iéfb‘.£

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

217

 

portion of the internal ear, probably exists, and
medical advice should be sought as soon as pos-
sible. The deafness that frequently accompanies
a violent cold, is generally caused by obstructions
in the Eustachian tube, and goes off as soon as
the secretions return to a healthy state. When
imperfect hearing depends upon obtundity of the
auditory nerve, or an extensive obliteration or
malformation of the internal ear, it scarcely ad-
mits of cure.

DEAFNESS, Remedies fan—I. Oil of al-
monds 1 lb. ; garlic, bruised 2 02.; alkanet root
% oz.; infuse and strain. A little is poured into
the ear in deafness.——2. Take a quarter of an
ounce of shark’s oil, ten drops of laudanum, and
five drops of turpentine, mix. Put three drops
in each ear every morning, and insert soft wool,
so as to keep out the cold.

DEA FIVESS ( T emporary) T a C urea—Tem-
porary deafness, arising from cold, sitting in a
draught, and other causes, may be relieved and
cured by letting fall into the ear ten drops of a
mixture of sweet oil and one of glycerine every
night, until the duct which leads from the ear to
the nose is cleared; this will be known by the
sensation of the fluid passing from the ear into
the nostril.

DEA T If, Sure Sign ofl—Stick a needle an
inch or so into the supposed corpse. In the liv-
ing tissues the needle will soon become tarnished
and oxidised, whilst in the actually dead it will
retain its polish. See also “Burying alive.”

DELI/flUfll T REA/ENS—The greatest
difficulty in the treatment of mania-potu is to
procure sleep, which is the indispensable con-
dition of recovery. The desideratum seems to
have been secured in Dublin by the use of red
pepper. In a case recently treated, a 60-grain
dose made into a pill was taken without any
difficulty. The immediate and sensible effects
were a burning sensation in the mouth and
throat, and a sense of diffused warmth through
the stomach and bowels for a brief period sub-
sequently. In less than an hour after the pill
was taken the patient fell into a quiet sleep, and
after two or three hours awoke perfectly calm,
conscious and convalescent. The results thus
obtained are fully borne out by the experience
acquired, on a far larger scale of observation, in
the West Indies and in the Melville Hospital,
Dublin.

DIABE TES.—To cure take syrup of yarrow
afi ozs. Mix——-take 4 ounces once in 4 hours.

his must be continued for 30 days, or until per-
fectly well. The food should be boiled beef-
steak and nothing else, except a very little bread
once a day. The bowels should be moved by a
mild catharic, one ounce (sixty grains) of Rhu-
barb at bed time.

DIARRHEA.—This is a looseness of the
bowels occasioned either by unwholesome or
irritating food, by inflammation of some portion
of the bowels, or by debility. It is accompanied
by a rumbling noise in the b0wels, some bearing
down and uneasiness just before an evacuation,
and generally griping. The strength soon be-
comes reduced, the skin pale, dry, and after a
time sallow.—Treatmmt.—The first, the most
important, and the most indispensable item in the
arrest and cure of looseness of the bowels, is ab-
solute quietude on a bed. Nature herself always
Ergmpts this by disinclining us to locomotion.

e next thing is to eat nothing but common

 

rice parched like coffee, and then boiled, and
taken with a little salt and butter. Drink little
or no li uid of any kind. Bits of ice may be
eaten and swallowed at will. Every step taken
in diarrhea, every 5 oonful of liquid, only aggra-
vates the disease. f locomotion is compulsory,
the misfortune of the necessity may be lessened
by having a stout piece of woolen flannel bound
tightly around the abdomen, so as to be doubled
in front, and kept well in its place. In the prac-
tice of many years we have never failed to notice
a gratifying result to follow these Observances.
DIARRIIEA, Remedies flzr.-——I. Take one tea-
spoonful of salt, the same of good vinegar, and a
tablespoonful of water: mix and drink. It acts
like a charm on the ‘system, and even one dose
will generally cure obstinate cases of diarrhea or
the first stages of cholera. If the first does not
bring complete relief, repeat the dose, as it is
quite harmless.—2. The best rhubarb root, pul-
verized, I oz.; peppermint leaf, I 02.; capsicum,
% oz.; cover with boiling water and steep thor-
oughly, strain, and add bi-carbonate of potash
and essence of cinnamon, of each % oz.; with
brandy (or good whiskey) equal in amount to the
whole, and loaf sugar, 4 oz. Dose—F or an
adult I or 2 table-spoons; for a child I to 2 tea-
spoons, from 3 to 6 times per day, until relief is
obtained—3. T 0 half a bushel of blackberries,
well mashed, add a quarter of a pound of allspice,
2 ounces of cinnamon, 2 ounces of cloves; pul-
verize well, mix and boil slowly until properl
done; then strain or squeeze the juice throug
home-spun or flannel, and add to each pint of the
juice I pound of loaf-sugar, boil again for some
time, take it off, and, while cooling, add half a
gallon of the best cognac brandy. .

DIARRHEA (Chronic), Injection fan—New
milk, with thick mucilage ot slippery elm, of
each 1 pint.; sweet oil, I gill; molasses, % pt.;
salt, I 01.; laudanum, I dr. Mix, and inject
what the bowels will retain.

DIS] NFE C TA N 7151—1. Quicklime, to ab-
sorb moisture and putrid fluids. Use fresh stone
lime; finely powdered; sprinkle it on the place
to be dried, and in damp rooms place a number
of plates or pans filled with the lime powder.
Whitewash with pure lime, and not with kalso-
mine. —— 2. Charcoal powder, to absorb putrid
gases. The coal must be dry and fresh, and
should be combined with lime. This compound
is the “calx powder”, as sold in the shops.—3.
Chloride of lime, to give off chlorine, to absorb
putrid eflluvia and to stop putrefaction. Use it
as lime is used, and if in cellars or close rooms
the chlorine gas is wanted, pour strong vinegar
or diluted sulphuric acid upon your plates of
chloride of lime occasionally, and add more of '
the chloride—4. Sulphate of iron (copperas) and
carbolic acid, to disinfect the discharges from'
cholera patients and to purify privies and drains.
Dissolve 8 or IO pounds of copperas in a common

ailful of water, and pour this strong solution
into the privy, water-closets or drain, every hour,
if cholera discharges have been thrown in those
places; but for ordinary use, to keep privies or
water-closets from becoming ofl'ensive, pour a
pint of this solution into every water-closet pan
or privy seat every night and morning. If there
is cholera in the house or district, let carbolic
acid be added to this iron solution—one half pint
of the fluid acid to five gallons of the solution.
Bed-pans and chamber-vessels are best disinfected

- 218

with this mixed solution using a gill at a time.—
5. Permanganate of potassa, to be used in dis-
infecting clothing and towels from cholera and
fever patients, during the night, or when such
articles cannot be instantly boiled. Throw the
soiled articles immediately into a tub of water in
which there has been dissolved an ounce of the
permanganate salt to every three gallons of water.
Boil the clothing as soon as it is removed from
this colored solution.—6. Carbolic acid, (fluid)
may be diluted at the rate of from forty to one
hundred parts of water to one of fluid acid. Use
this solution for the same purposes as copperas
is used; also to sprinkle upon any kind of garb-
age or decaying matter. and on foul surfaces or
in drains. When used to disinfect clothing, car-
bolic acid of good quality should be thoroughly
mixed with its own quantity of strong vinegar,
and next be dissolved in two hundred times its
own quantity of water, before the clothing is
immersed in it. This mixture with vinegar in-
sures such complete solution of the carbolic acid
that the clothing will not be “burned” by undis-
solved drops of acid when disinfected in the car-
bolic water. This weak solution (1 part to 200)

. will not injure common clothing. But to destroy
clothing as well as infection, instantly, use the
acid diluted only ten to thirty times in its own
quantity of water. The disinfecting and anti-
septic power of good carbolic acid is so great that
one part of it to fifty or one hundred parts of
water is sufficient for ordinary purposes. For
drains, sewers, foul heaps, stables, and privies,
the cheap “dead oil” of coal tar or the crude car-
bolic acid answers every purpose when freely
applied. Coal-tar itself is available as a disin-
fectant to paint upon the walls of stables, privy
vaults and drains. By mixing with sawdust or
dry lime, coal-tar or crude acid may be used on
foul grounds or heaps of refuse.——-7. Boiling or
high-steam heat.—Whenever foul clothing and
infected things can be boiled, or have a boiling
heat steadily applied and kept up for an hour,
this is one of the simplest and best modes of dis-
infection. But until such high heat is actually
applied to the infected things, some one of the
disinfecting solutions must be used. A common
steam tub (in a laundry or elsewhere) with a
tight cover is a good disinfecting vat.

F irst—Things that should be disinfected are:
Beds, bedding and upholstered stuffs. Expose
to sunlight and ventilation freely and frequently.
If actually infected, thoroughly moisten every
part with best solution of 6 or 5. Second—Soil-
ed clothing, etc., from the sick with cholera or
any contagious disease. Use solution 5 or 6
precisely as directed, and as soon as the soiled
articles are removed from the patient; or im-
merse them at once in boiling water. In any
case of infectious disease the clothing must be
boiled previous to washing or drying. Infected
clothing must be thrown into the water at boil-
ing heat, and that temperature should be kept up
for an hour. Third—Carpets, sofas, lounges,
mattresses, floors, etc., infected by cholera ex-

- crement or small-pox and other contagions:—I.
Thoroughly moisten every infected thing with
one of the carbolic or permanganate solutions
(No. 5 or 6).-——'2. To give still greater complete-
ness to the disinfection required for an infected
apartment and thick woollen stufl's, carpets, etc.,
to which boiling heat cannot be applied, fumigate
with sulphurous acid, thus :-3. Arrange to va-

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DA Y WANTS.

cate the room for twelve hours; close every
window and aperture, and upon an iron pipkin
or kettle with legs, burn a few ounces of sul-
phur. Instantly after kindling it every person
must withdraw from the place, and the room
must remain closed for succeeding eight hours.
If any other kind of fumigation is resorted to (as
that by chlorine, bromine or nitrous acid,) a sa-
nitary officer or a chemist should superintend the
process. Fumigation should be resorted to in .
dwelling houses only by official orders 0r per-
mission, as the disinfecting gases are very poi-
sonous. Fourth—Finally let fresh air and sunlight
purify every place they can reach. Open and dry
all cellars and vaults, and keep the grounds and
surfaces about dwellings as dry and clean as pos-
sible. Use fresh lime or the “calx powder”
freely upon wet or offensive surfaces. Flush the
water-closets and drains daily before throwing in
the disinfectants as directed. Let domestic and
personal cleanliness be everywhere observed.
There are no substitutes for fresh air and water.
DISIIVFECTANTS, 0171872—1. One of the
best and most pleasant disinfectants is coffee;
the simplest way to use it is to pound the well-
dried raw beans in a mortar and strew the powder
over a moderately heated iron plate. The simple
traversing of the house with a roaster contain-
ing freshly-roasted coffee will clear it of offenstve
smells.—2. The onion is a superior disinfectant.
Two or three good-sized ones, out in halves, and
placed on a plate on the floor, absorb the noxious
effluvia, etc., which are generated in the sick-
room, in an incredibly short space of time. They
should be changed every few (say 3) hours,
DIPTIIEA’IA. —I. A French medical journal
gives the following particulars of a case 0
diptheria that was cured by ice: The patient was
a woman of twenty-four, who had just been
confined. She complained of sore throat, could
hardly swallow, and her tonsils, uvula, palate,
and adjacent parts were covered with an extrem-
ely adventitious membrane; the sub—maxillary
ganglions were swollen and painful, and a short
cough was occasionally heard. After trying some
other remedies, ice was prescribed. Durin
seven hours the patient constantly kept a bit 0
ice in her mouth; it gave her pleasure, and she
felt that it eased her considerably. In the course
of that time, the membranes had nearly disap«
peared entirely, the pulse had fallen from eighty
to seventy-six, and the general state of the patient
had improved. In the course of the following
day the cure was complete.-—-—2. Take a common
tobacco pipe, place a live coal in the bowl, drop
alittle tar upon the coal, draw the smoke into
the mouth, and discharge through the nostrils.—
3. A simple and successful treatment of diptheria
may be found in the use of lemon juice. Gargle
the throat freely with it at the same time swal-
lowing a portion, so as to reach all the affected
parts. A French physician claims that he saved
his own life with this pleasant remedy.
DISEASES 0F CHILDREN—Children
might be saved a great many kinds of disease,
if proper care was given them. By this I do
not mean that mothers should wear themselves
out in waiting upon them—that is what they do
now—but that they should give them the right
kind of care. *
In the first lace, their young lungs must have
pure air, an enough of it. Their sleeping-
rooms should be well ventilated, and they should

MEDICAZ AND SURGICAL.

219

 

be out of doors as much as possible. The next
thing is to clothe them warmly, so that they can
be out of doors, safely and comfortably. Put
flannel next their skin; let them wear high dres-
ses, moderately long; woolen stockings and
worsted drawers in winter, and cotton in sum-
mer; thick shoes, long sleeves, etc. If they do
not look quite so pretty for it now, they will
repay you in good looks and good health when
they are older.

Keep their skin clean and active, by frequent
baths; not exposing them to the air immediately
after bathing, unless it is to have a good run.
Give them plain, simple, nourishing food, plenty
of it; but not too much, nor at irregular times.
Stuffed children always have a bowel complaint,
as they must. Give them plenty of sleep, too,
and have them go to bed always by a certain
early hour. Treat them kindly but firmly. Do
not disturb their digestion with cross humors,
nor allow them to do so themselves. Only by
habits of obedience can they be made either
healthy or good. Do not give young children
tea, or coffee, or liquors. They do not need
them, and are better without them.

DISEASE IN CHILD/GEM Sign: of:—
In the case of a baby not yet able to talk, it
must cry when it is ill. The colic makes a baby
cry loud, long, and passionately, and shed tears
——stopping for a moment and beginning again.

If the chest is affected, it gives one sharp cry,
breaking off immediately, as if crying hurt it.

If the head is affected, it cries in sharp, pierc-
ing shrieks, with low moans and wails between.
Or there may be quiet dozing, and startings
between.

It is easy enough to perceive, where a child is
attacked by disease, that there has some change
taken place; for either its skin will be dry and
hot, its appetite gone; it is stupidly sleepy, or
fretful and crying; it is thirsty, or pale and
languid, or in some way betrays that something
is wrong. When a child vomits, or has a
diarrhea, or is costive and feverish, it is owing
to some derangement, and needs attention. But
these various symptoms may continue for a day
or two before the nature of the disease can be
determined. A warm bath, warm drinks, etc.,
can do no harm, and may help to determine the
case. On coming out of the bath, and being
well rubbed with the hand, the skin will show
symptoms of rash, if it is a skin disease which
has commenced. By the appearance of the rash,
the nature of the disease can be learned. Measles
are in patches, dark-red, and come out first

- about the face. If scarlet fever is impending,
the skin will look a deep pink all over the body,
though most so about the neck and face. Chicken-
pox shows fever, but not so much running at the
nose, and appearances of cold, as in measles,
nor is there as much of a cough. Besides, the
spots are smaller, and do not run much together,
and are more diffused over the whole surface of
the skin; and enlarge into little blisters in a day
or two.

D_lZZ[1VESS.—This may come from dys-
pepsia, _over exertion, or any derangement of the
Circulation. Avoid the cause, and keep the feet
warm, and the head cool.

‘DRIZYKING IN SUMMER—If very
thirsty Slp, do not gulp, especially if drinking
iced water. The sudden deaths while drinking
frequently recorded in summer, are due to para-

 

lysis of the stomach, produced by drenching it
suddenly with iced water. By sipping thirst is
more thoroughly quenched and less water is
needed; for in all seasons the quantity taken is
an important matter, nearly as important as the
temperature.

DR (LVKENNESS, Remedies/bred. Who-
ever makes the attem t to abandon spirit-drink-
ing, will find, from time to time, a rankling in
the stomach, with a sensation of sinking, cold-
ness and inexpressible anxiety. The following
tonic will help restore the vigor of the stomach.
Take of gentian root, % ounce; valerian root,
I drachm, best rhubarb root, 2 drachms ; bitter
orange peel, 3 drachms; cardamon seeds, % an
ounce, and cinnamon bark I drachm. Having
bruised all the above together in a mortar (the
druggist will do it, if requested), pour upon it
1% pints of boiling water, and cover up close;
let it stand till cold; strain, bottle, and cork
securely; keep in a dark place. Two table-
spoonfuls may be taken every hour before meals,
and half that quantity whenever the patient feels
that distressing sickness and prostration, so gen.
erally present for some time after alcoholic stim.
ulants have been abandoned—2. Sulphate oi
iron, 5 grains - magnesia, 10 grains; peppermint
water, I I draghms; spirits of nutmeg, I drachm ;
twice a day.

DR UNKARDS, To Reform—Tartar emetic,
eight grains, rose water, four ounces, mix. Put
a tablespoonful into the whole quantity the man
drinks through the day, and let him take it as
usual; be sure not to exceed this quantity. An~
other cure is to compel the patient to drink
nothing but strong spirits for a week; he will be
thoroughly disgusted.

DYSENTER K—This is an inflammation of
the mucous membrane lining the lower bowels.
The rectum, or lowest bowel, is generally the
part most affected. The disease comes on with
lassitude, shivering, a hot skin, and quick pulse.
These are followed by griping pains in the bow-
els, and a constant desire to pass their contents.
In general, the passages are small, composed of
mucus mixed with blood, and are attended with
griping and straining; and sometimes by nausea
and vomiting. The natural feces pass off in small,
round, hard lumps. The mucous discharges are
at first without much smell, but as the disease
increases become very offensive in odor. The
disease is caused by sudden changes from hot to
cold, by which the perspiration is suddenly
checked. Hot weather and indigestible food may
produce it.

DYSENTER Y, Cures for. —Tincture of
rhubarb, tincture of capsicum, tincture of cam-
phor, essence of ginger and laudanum, equal
parts; mix, shake well, and take from ten to
twenty drops every thirty minutes until relief is
obtained. This is a dose for an adult. Half the
amount for a child under twelve years of age.—
2. Take some butter off the churn, immediately
after being churned, just as it is, without being
salted or washed; clarify it over the fire like
honey. Skim of? all the milky particles when
melted over a clear fire. Let the patient (if an
adult) take two tablespoonfuls of the clarified
remainder, twice or thrice within the day. This
has never failed to effect a cure, and in many
cases it has been almost instantaneous.—3. In
diseases of this kind, the Indians use the roots
and leaves of the b1ackberry-bush——a decoction

.20

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

of which in hot water, well boiled down, is taken
in doses of a gill before each meal, and before
retiring to bed. It is an almost infallible cure.
-—4. Beat one egg in a teacup; add one table-
spoonful of loaf sugar and half a teaspoonful of
ground spice; fill the cup with sweet milk. Give
the patient one tablespoonful once in ten minutes
unti relieved.-—5. Take one tablespoonful of
common salt, and mix it with two tablespoonfuls
of vinegar and pour upon it a half-pint of water,
either hot or cold (only let it be taken cool.) A
wine-glass full of this mixture in the above pro-
portions, taken every half-hour, will be found
quite efficacious in curing dysentery. If the
stomach be nauseated, a wine-glass full taken
every hour will suffice. For a child, the quantity
should be a teaspoonful of salt and one of vinegar
in a teacupful of water.

DYSPEPSIA.—-This disease, from which so
many suffer, and which is caused in so many
various ways, gives the physician a great amount
of trouble. Its symptoms are now so well known
as hardly to need description; and they vary so
much according to the stage or cause of the dis-
ease, that it is difficult to give them in a small
space. Most often there is a sensation of tight-
ness or weight in the stomach, after meals, a
changeable appetite, flatulency, acidity of stom—
ach, general distress and nervousness, and some-
times vomiting. A feeling of sinking and empti-
ness in the stomach is also one ofits signs, and a
weakness so great at that particular spot, that it
is hard to sit up straight. The tongue is coated
white, and there is a bad taste in the mouth, oc-
casional heartburn, headache, palpitation, and
tenderness at the pit of the stomach. The urine
is high-colored, and bowels irregular. Some-
times the nervous system becomes so affected by
long-continued indigestion, as to produce a com-
plication of disorders very difficult to cure.

The causes are insufficient mastication of food,
too highly-seasoned food, and sedentary habits,
as well as anxiety of mind.

The treatment should, in the first place, re-
move the cause. The bowels should be kept
open, the quantity of food taken should be rather
small, and well chewed, nothing exciting to the
stomach should be taken into it, and outdoor
exercise should be taken, but not too soon after
meals. For removing costiveness, give a pre-
paration of rhubarb and bicarbonate of potassa.

or acidity, prepared charcoal, in teaspoonful
doses, may be used. A good remedy is pulver-
ized guaiacum, rhubarb, and prepared charcoal,
equal parts, in teaspoonful doses. Too much
brain-work must not be done, and the spirits
should be kept cheerful, and the body active.
Nothing is better for digestion than laughter. A
remedy that has effected a cure is to take a piece
of rennet, the size of a dollar, and soak in a cup
of water. Give one great spoonful three times a
day. This simple preparation has effected a
complete cure, after trying every thing else, to
.no purpose, for several years.

EA R-A CHE, Remedierflr.—Generally heat
is the best remedy. Apply a warm poultice or
warm oil to the ear. Rub the back of the ear
with warm laudanum. In case of a foetid dis-
_charge, carefully syringe the ear with warm milk
and water. In all cases keep the ear thoroughly
cleansed. Relief is often given by rubbing the
back of the ear with a little hartshorn and water.

~2. “Drop some warm glycerine into the car by

 

means of a quill, and afterwards introduce a
piece of wool. Wool plucked from a blanket is
the most suitable; the fibres are elastic, and do
not coalesce into a hard pellet as cotton is apt
to do.

EAR, To Remove Insect: that flew Entered
il.—Let the person, under this distressing cir-
cumstance, lay his head upon a table, the side
upwards that is afflicted; at the same time, let
some friend carefully drop into the ear alittle
sweet oil, or oil of almonds. A drop or two will
be sufficient, which will instantly destroy the in-
sect and remove the pain, however violent. Then
syringe with warm water.

EAR, To Remove Foreign Bodiesfrom.—~Dr.
Hutchinson, in the London Medical Times, says
the safest and most effective way of removing all
foreign substances from the ear, is to make six
inches of very fine and flexible wire into a loop,
pass it down to the tympanum, and turn it gently
around. He thinks it far preferable to the scoop
or to syringing.

ER YSIPELAS.-—This is an inflammation of
the skin, affecting only a portion of the body’s
surface, and is accompanied by fever, which is
thought to be contagious. The local inflammation
spreads; it is deep, and attended by swelling,
burning, and tingling heat; and by a redness
which disappears when the skin is pressed by
the finger, and returns on remitting the pressure.
—Symptamr.—Chilliness and shaking, followed
by heat; depression of spirits; weariness, pains
in the back and limbs and in the head; quick,
hard pulse, thirst, loss of appetite, tongue coated
white, bitter taste in the mouth, nausea, vomit-
ing, pain in the stomach, and costiveness. These
symptoms appear several days before the local
inflammation; they increase with the redness of
the skin, and disappear upon its decline. The
nervous system is very much affected, and a low
delirium comes on. When the inflammation
subsides, the bowels relax, and the scarf-skin
peels off. Sometimes matter forms under the
skin, and occasionally mortification takes place.
The face is generally the seat of the disease; and
it commonly begins on one side of the nose, and.
spreads over that side of the face, closing up the
eye, and disfiguring the features shockingly. In
from three to five days small blisters are discem-
ible on the inflamed parts, which increase in size
until they break and discharge the water. The
disease runs about nine days, when the blisters
dry, and the skin peels off—To cure keep the
patient in bed, on a low diet,—bread and water
-—the nearer a starvation diet the better, kee ing
the inflamed part of the face or other part 0. the
body covered by soft linen cloths, wrung out of
cool water and changed every half hour or hour.
A poultice made of cranberries, pounded fine,
and applied in a raw state has been recommended.

EMISSIONS, Involuntary.—An involuntary
emission of semen during sleep, inducing great
emaciation and debility.-—Treatment—Abstam
from all sexual indulgence and lascivious ideas or
books, sleep on a hard bed, use the cold bath
daily, with a generous and nourishing diet.
Chalybeate water and all the different prepara.
tions of iron, with the cold infusion of bark and
elixir of vitriol, as directed for indigestion, should
be freely employed. _

EPILEPSK—This is a disease characterized
byasudden loss of consciousness, strong spasms,
and intervals between the fits. The attack is

 

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

22!

 

sudden, and the patient falls down, sometimes
with a cry, sometimes in silence; either wrth .con-
vulsions, and foaming at the mouth, or With a
mere suspension of consciousness. In a short
» time the struggles cease, if there be any, and the
patient seems to sleep, after which he recovers,
and is apparently well.— Treatment.—Very little
can be done for the patient during the fit, except
to protect him from injuring himself by the vi-
olence of the convulsions, A piece of leather or
cork should be placed between the back teeth to
prevent the tongue being bitten. Remove the
neck-cloth and collar; and if the bowels are sus-
pected to be overloaded, give an injection. The
treatment during the intervals must depend on
the cause. If it be worms, expel them; if diffi-
cult breathing, lance the gums ; if by uterine dis-
turbance, search out the nature, and treat ac-
cordingly; if the complaint arise fromindigestible
food, great attention must be given to diet and
the general health. Regular habits, and light,
digestible and nourishing food, are very import-
ant. The bowels must be kept regular by the
food if possible; if not, by mild laxatives. Ton-
ics must be given, and some strengthening lini-
ment rubbed upon the spine daily.

EX C ORIA T [ OAK—Young children are very
a tto be chafed under the arms, behind the ears,
between the thighs, and in the wrinkles and folds
of the skin, unless great attention is paid to clean-
liness and wiping the skin perfectly dry after
washing. Whenever there is a tendency to ex-
coriations of this kind, either in adults or children,
a little finely powdered starch, or violet powder,
applied by means of a puff, or a small bag of
muslin, once or twice a day, will generally re-
move them, and prevent their occurrence in fu-
ture. See also “Chafing”.

EYE-SIGHT, To Preserve—I. Never sit
for any length of time in absolute gloom, or ex-
posed to a blaze of light. The reason on which
this rule is founded proves the impropriety of
going hastily from one extreme to the other,
whether of darkness or of light, and shows us that
a southern aspect is improper for those whose
sight is weak and tender.

2. Avoid reading small print, and straining the
eyes by looking at minute objects.

. 3. Do not read in the dusk, nor, if the eyes be
disordered, by candle-light.

4. Do not permit the eyes to dwell on glaring
objects, more particularly on first waking 1n the
morning; the sun should not of course be suf-
fered to shine in the room at that time, and a
moderate quantity of light only should be ad-
mitted. For the same reasons, the furniture,
walls, and other objects of a bed-room should not
be altogether of awhite or glaring color; indeed,
those whose eyes are weak, would find considera-
ble advantage in having green for the furniture,
and as the prevailing color of their bed-chambers.
Nature confirms the propriety of this direction,
for the light of the day comes on by slow degrees,
and green is the universal color she presents to
our eyes.

5. Those individuals who are rather long-
sighted should accustom themselves to read with
the book somewhat nearer to the eye than what
they naturally like; while others, that are rather
short-sighted, should use themselves to read with
the book as far of as possible. By these means,
both will improve and strengthen their sight,
while a. contrary course increases its natural im-

 

perfections. It is well to read or sew with the

ight above or behind, rather than in front of the

faice, or with a shade to protect the eyes from
are.

E YES, To fudge 70km they require the
Ambiance of SPECTA CLES.—I. When we are
obliged to remove small objects to a considerable
distance from the eye in order to see them dis-
tinctly.

2. If we find it necessary to get more light than
formerly, as, for instance to place the candle be-
tween the eye and the object.

3. If, on looking at, and attentively considering
a near object, it fatigues the eye and becomes
confused, or if it appears to have a kind of dim-
ness or mist before it.

4. When small printed letters are seen to run
into each other, and hence, by looking steadfastly
on them, appear double or treble.

5. If the eyes are so fatigued by a little exer~
cise, that we are obliged to shut them from time
to time, so as to relieve them by looking at dif-
ferent objects.

When all these circumstances concur, or any
of them separately takes place, it will be neces-
sary to seek assistance from glasses, which will
ease the eyes, and in some degree check their
tendency to become worse: whereas, if they be
not assisted in time, the weakness will be con-
siderably increased, and the eyes be impaired by
the efforts they are compelled to exert.

E YE, (Black) How to eure.—Immediatel
after the eye has been struck with force enoug
to make it black, apply a cloth wet with water
just as hot as you can bear it; keep on applying
the water for fifteen or twenty minutes, and the
coagulated blood will become thin and pass off
into its natural channels, and leave the eye per-
haps swollen, but clear of blackness.

E YE (Sty, in) T o rum—Put a teaspoonful
of soda in a small bag, pour on it just enough
boiling water to moisten it, then put it on the e 6
pretty warm, keep it on all night, and in t e
morning the stye will most likely be gone; if not,
a second application is sure to remove it.

E YE, ( Weak and Sore) Ref/zediesfbr.——I. Sul-
phate of zinc three grains, tincture of opium
ten drops, water two ounces. To be applied
three or four times a-day.—-2. Take an egg and
roast it after which remove the shell, then half
it, take the yolk out and fill the cavities left in
the whites with finely pulverized alum. Place
in a thin cloth and press all the juice out. Bottle
the liquid thus obtained, and bathe the eyes with
it. For ordinary sore eyes it is an excellent re-
medy.—3. Table salt and white vitriol, of each,
I table-spoon ; heat them upon copper or earthen
until dry; the heating drives of? the acrid or bi-
ting water called the water of crystallization,
making them much milder in their action ; now
add to them soft water, % pt. ; putting in white
sugar, I table-spoon; blue vitriol a piece the size
of a common pea. If it should prove too strong
in any case, add a little more soft water to a vial
of it. Apply it to the eyes 3 or 4 times daily.—
4. Bathe the eyes night and morning with tepid
water, and then use the following lotion:—Oxide
of zinc, I drachm; rose water, 8 ounces. Mix.
If the eyelids stick together in the morning a
little weak citrine ointment slightly warmed
should be applied at bedtime to the edges of the
lids with a feather or the tip of the finger.-—5. An
alum lotion is beneficial to weak and watery

I

222

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

eyes. It may be made by mixing half a drachm
of purified alum with six ounces of rose-water.—
6. Sulphate of zinc, 2 grs.; tincture of opium,
(laudanum), I dr.; rose-water, 2 025.; mix. Put
a. drop or two in the eye 2 or 3 times daily.—7.
Sul hate of zinc, acetate of lead, and rock salt, of
eac % 02.; loaf sugar, I 02.; soft water, x2 ozs.;
mix without heat, and use as other eye water.—
8. Sulphate of zinc, I 02.; sugar of lead, % oz.;
precipitated carbonate of iron, % oz.; salt, and
su r, of each I table spoon ; the whites of 2 eggs;
so t water, 32 025.; mix the whites of the eggs,
zinc, salt, lead, sugar, and iron well together,
then add the water. —9. IV/zm excessive! in-
flammtd. Poultice by boiling a handful o hops
111 water, utting in from % to 1 dr. of opium,
while bo’ ing; when still warm, lay the hops
over the eyes and keep them wet with the water
in which they were boiled—Io. If sore eyes
shed much water, put a little of the oxide of zinc
into a vial of water, and use it rather freely—it
will soon cure that difficulty.—I I. Castile soa ,
scraped fine, and half the quantity of very finel)

pulverized chalk; wet them up to a paste with
strong juice of tobacco; when desired to apply to
the eye, drop two or three drops of brandy into
the box of paste; then take out a bit ofit where
the brandy was dropped, equal in size to the
fourth of a grain of wheat, to the diseased eye;
wet it ona bit of glass, and put it into the eye
with a camel’s hair pencil.—12. Salve. Take
white precipitate, 1 tea-spoon and rub it into a
salve with 3 tea-spoons of fresh lard, and applied
upon the outside of the lid of the worst chronic,
(long continued), sore eyes, has cured them
when they were so bad that even the eye-lashes,
(cilia), had fallen out, from the disease.

FAINTIA’G.-—Place the patient upon the
back, with the head low; let fresh air into the
room instantly, and apply gentle friction. Apply
cam hor or spirits of hartshorn upon the fore-
hea , and about the nostrils.

FEET, Care qfi—Many are careless in the
keeping of the feet. If they wash them once a
week, they think they are doing well. They do
not consider that the largest ores of the s stem
are located in the bottom otPthe foot, an that
the most offensive matter is discharged through
the pores. They wear stockings from the begin-
ning to the end of the week without change, which
becomes wholly saturated with offensive matter.
——Ill health is generated by such treatment of
the feet. The pores are not repellants, but ab-
sorbants, and this foetid matter, to a greater or
less extent, is taken back into the system. The
feet should be washed every day with pure water
only, as well as the armpits, from which an of-
fensive odor is also emitted, unless daily abolution
is practiced. Stockings should not be worn more
than a day or two at a time. They may be worn
one day, and then aired and sunned, and worn
' another day, if necessary.

FEET, 81.15 T ERED.—To cure blistered
feet from long walking, rub the feet, at going to
bed, with spirits mixed with tallow.

FEET, Cold—The best method of averting
coldness in the feet and lower limbs is to wear
two pairs of stockings of different fabrics, one of
silk or cotton, and the other of wool; the two
fabrics serving to keep in the natural heat of the

feet.
FEET, (Cold) at Bed-Time.-—-Draw off the
stocking, just before undressing, and rub the

 

ankles and feet with the hand as hard as can be
borne for 5 or 10 minutes. This will diffuse
1pleasurable glow, and those who do so will never

ave to complain of cold feet in bed. Frequent
washing and rubbing them thoroughly dry with
a linen cloth or flannel, is useful for the same
purpose.

FEE T, Frosted. -—-To relieve the intense
itching of frosted feet. dissolve a lump of alum in
a little water, and bathe the part with it, warm-
ing it before the fire. One or two applications
are sure to give relief.

FEE T, Tender. -—Wear woollen socks or
stockings, and change them frequently. Bathe
both your feet and lower limbs in a solution of
common salt, a pound of salt to a gallon of water.
When spring water is used, add a tablespoonful
of carbonate of soda to every pint of water. Use
boots or shoes with soft leather uppers, and soles
not too thin.

FELON, Cure:fbr.—-As soon as the disease
is felt put directly over the spot a fly blister,
about the size of your thumb nail, and let it re-
main for six hours, at the expiration of which
time, directly under the surface of the blister may
be seen the felon, which can be instantly taken
out with the point of a needle or a lancet.—2.
Take equal quantities of soft-soap and quick-lime,
mix till about the consistency of putty, make
into little balls, and as often as one dries apply
another; they will need to be changed about
every half hour, and will be increasingly painful
with each successive change, but in three or four
hours the suppuration will be complete, and the
felon all drawn out, leaving a little hole running
to the bone, which will soon heal up, needing
only to be washed daily with Castile soap and
warm water, and kept covered with adhesive
plaster. Hard-soap may be dissolved in warm
water and used instead of soft, but soap made of
woodashes is best.——3. A poultice of onions,
applied morning, noon and night, for three or
four days, will cure a felon.——4. Insert the finger
or thumb, whichever the case may be, into a
lemon, in the first stages of the disease, and keep
it on twelve to twenty-four hours, and it will re-
lieve the pain and cure without any further
trouble.——5. Take equal parts of gum camphor,
opium, castile soap, brown sugar; wet to a paste
with spirits of turpentine, and apply like a salve.
Those who have tried it say it is an invaluable
remedy.—6. Take common rock salt, such as is
used in salting down beef or pork, and mix with
spirits of turpentine in equal parts, and as it
gets dry put on more, and in twenty-four hours
you are cured—7. When you fear a felon is com-
ing, put a pint tin of boiling water on the stove;
then add to that a teaspoonful of saleratus and a
wineglass of vinegar ', beat this every little while,
say from half an hour to an hour, and hold your
finger in it till the pain subsides; repeat this till
you see all the matter drawn to one place; then
have it opened and your finger will heal.

FE VER and A G UE.—This, the true inter—
mittent fever, comes on with an ague-fit, which
has three stages—the cold, the hot, and the
sweating. In the first stage, the patient yawns,
stretches, feels weak, has no appetite, and does
not wish to move. The face and extremities become
pale, the skin shrinks, and is covered with goose-
flesh; the patient shakes, and his teeth chatter.
Then, after a time, these symptoms decline, and
the patient’s fever comes on very violently, and

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

223

 

with various uncomfortable sensations. As the
fever passes off, the sweating stage comes on,
when the perspiration is generally profuse; the
body returns to its natural temperature, the pains
and aches vanish, and a feeling of health comes
back, and generally a voracious appetite. There
is not much regularity in the time of coming on,
or going off, 0 the ague-fits, though usually they
are a little later each day in appearing. In this
disease the spleen is very much oppressed with
blood driven in from the surface, and often be-
comes so much enlarged as to be plainly felt by
the hand. This is a malarious disease—Treat-
ment—The bowels may be opened with a gentle
physic, such as salts and senna. In the cold
stage, give hot and stimulating drinks, use foot-
baths, hot bottles, etc., and try every expedient
to promote warmth. In the hot stage, give cool-
ing drinks, and administer quinine mixture, as
the following: quinine, one scruple; alcohol,
four ounces ; sulphuric acid, five drops. Mix.
Give a teaspoonful every half-hour during the
fever, at the same time giving five-drop doses of
veratrum viride every hour. When the sweating
stage comes on, stop the veratrum, and rub the
patient with dry towels. In the intermission
give quinine. In mild cases, other tonics than
quinine often effect a cure. The nursing of the
patient, and bathing, sweating and rubbing are
the most important part of the treatment, in this,
as in most other diseases. In ague districts, the
hot sun, and evening air, are to be avoided.

FE VER am! A G UE, Ot/zcr Remedies for.—
I. Take two ounces of gum camphor and enclose
it in a flannel bag about four or five inches
square. Suspend the bag over the pit of the
stomach by the means of a cord around the neck,
anda speedy cure will be effected. When the
camphor is dissolved the ague is gone.—2. Ger~
man physicians, as appears from medical jour-
nals, have found a tincture of the leaves of the
Eucalyptus globulus, or Australian gum-tree, to
be a remedy for intermittent fever. Dr. Lorimer
gave it to fifty-three patients, of whom forty-
three were completely cured.—3. The ordinary
sunflower, if planted around a house, will free
the atmosphere from the animal and vegetable
germs, supposed to contain the miasma product-
ive of fever and ague.—4. See also “Quint/2y, a
substitute for” on page 81.

FE VElt’, Bz'tious’ It’mm'ttmt.—This makes its
attack in a sudden and marked manner. There
are no premonitory symptoms except, perhaps, a
little languor and debility, slight headache, and
a bad taste in the mouth, sometimes some pain
in the joints. Its commencement is with a chill,
sometimes slight, sometimes severe and prolong-
ed. The chill may begin in the feet, or shoul-
ders, or back, running thence like streams of
cold water. There is seldom more than this one
chill, the fever coming on afterward without the
cold stage. At certain periods of the day, there
is greater intensity of the symptoms, and possibly
the chill, though probably not. Between these
periods of increased fever, the disease seems to
decrease, though there is still some fever. Un-
like fever and ague, it does not go entirely off.
During the hot stage the pulse is up to one
hundred and twenty, or still higher, and there
are pains in the head, back, and limbs, of the
most distressing kind. The tongue is covered
with a yellowish fur, and, in bad cases, is parch-
ed, brown, or almost black in the center, and red

 

at the edges. The appetite is gone, and there is
generally nausea and vomiting, and pain or ten-
derness in the upper part of the bowels. At first
there is costiveness, but afterward the bowels
become loose, and the evacuations are dark and
offensive. This disease is produced by malaria,
and prevails in hot climates, and in our summer
and autumn.—Trmtmmt.——In the very begin-
ning, the disease ma be arrested by an emetic
of lobelia or ipecac, ollowed by a mild cathartic.
But if the disease is fully developed, sponge the
body all over, several times a day, with water,
and give cooling drinks, such as cream tartar,
two scruples, in a quart of water, lemonade, etc.
To allay the fever, give tincture of veratrum
viride, in ten-drop doses. Cold water and ice
may be given the patient, if desired. Cool the
head, when it aches, with cold applications, and
put a mustard-poultice on the stomach, if tender.
During the remissions between the fever, quin-
ine, and other tonics, must be given, as in fever
and ague.

FEVER, Congestizre.—-Another form of mala-
rious fever, is the congestive. It may be either
remittent, that is, abating considerably; or in-
termittent, that is, having intervals of entire free-
dom from fever. It may have intervals of twenty-
four or of forty-eight hours. The first attack does
not differ from that of a simple intermittent, and
may excite but little attention; but the second
is always severe, roducing great coldness, and
a death-like hue o the face and extremities. The
advancement of the disease brings dry, husky,
parched, and pungently hot skin, followed after
a time, by a cold, clammy sensation. The eyes
are dull, water , and sometimes glassy; the
countenance dul , sleepy, distressed; the tongue,
at first white, changes to brown or black, and is
usually tremulous ; the breathing is hurried and
difficult. Pressure over the liver, stomach, or
bowels, produces pain. The mind is often dis-
turbed, and falls into lethargy and stupor, or is
delirious.— T reatmmt.—This should be- nearly
the same as in bilious remittent. \Vhile con-
valescing, the diet must be light and nutritious
at first, increasing in quantity as the strength
returns. Use a mild tonic, if the patient is weak.
Exercise out of doors must not be neglected.

FE VIE/'6, [IA Y (o7ArtIzma).—-This very pecu-
liar disease appears generally as a severe attack
of catarrh, with asthmatic symptoms superadded.
The lining membrane of the eyes, nose, throat,
and lungs is all more or less affected. The pa-
tient sufi'ers from headache, sometimes severe,
sneezing, irritation of the nose and throat, with
a dry harassing cough. The asthmatic attacks
come on generally towards evening, and last
from one to three hours causing great distress.
Hay fever is not a very common complaint, and
only attacks those persons who from some pe-
culiarity of constitution are susceptible to the
causes producing it. It is supposed to be caused
by the 1nhalation of the pungent aroma of spring
grass and hay, but the inhalation of the powder
of ipecacuanha will also produce it in certain in-
dividuals. In the United States, where the rose
is largely cultivated, similar attacks sometimes
occur; it is then called rose fever or rose catarrh.
The best treatment is change of air, to the sea-
side if possible. During the attacks antispasmod-
ics, such as sal volatile, ether. or an emetic, if
the patient is able to bear it, inhalations of hot
steam medicated with creosote, carbolic acid, or

224

DICTIONAR Y 01“ EVER Y—DA Y WANTS.

 

tu entine will be found useful. When the at-
tac passes off the general health should be im-
proved by tonics, diet, etc.

FEVER, S CARLE T—This is an acute in-
flammation of the skin, both external and inter-
nal, and connected with an infectious fever.—
Symfitomn—The fever shows itself between two
or ten days after exposure. On the second day
of the fever the eruption comes out in minute
pimples, which are either clustered together, or
spread over the surfacein a general bright scarlet
color. The disease begins with languor, pains
in the head, back, and limbs, drowsiness, nausea
and chills, followed by heat and thirst. When
the redness appears the pulse is quick, and
the patient is restless, anx1ous, and often delir—
ious. The eyes are red, the face swollen, and the
tongue covered in the middle with white mucus,
through which are seen elevated points of ex-
treme redness. The tonsils are swollen, and the
throat is red. By the evening of the third or
fourth day the redness has reached its height,
and the skin becomes moist, when the scarf-skin
begins to come off in scales.

In this fever the flesh puffs up so as to distend
the fingers, and disfigure the face. As it pro-

esses the coating suddenly comes off the tongue,

eaving it and the whole mouth raw and tender.
The throat is very much swollen and inflammed,
and ulcers form on the tonsils. The eustachian
tube which extends up to the ear, the glands un-
der the ear and jaw, some times inflame and
break; and the abscesses formed in the ear fre-
quently occasion deafness more or less difficult
to cure. The symptoms of this disease may be
distinguished from that of measles by the absence
of cough ; by the finer rash ; by its scarlet color;
by the rash appearing on the second instead of
the fourth day; and by the ulceration of the
throat.— Treatment—In ordinary cases the treat-
ment required is very simple. The room where
the patient lies should be kept cool, and the bed
covering light. The whole body should be
sponged with cool water as often as it becomes
hot and dry, and cooling drinks should be ad-
ministered. If there is much fever and soreness
of throat, give cold water to drink and apply
cloths, wrung out of ice water. It would also be
useful to commence treatment with an emetic;
and to soak the feet and hands in hot water con-
taining a little mustard or cayenne pepper; con-
tinuing this bath twenty minutes, twice a day,
for two or three days. The cold stage being
passed, and the fever having set in, warm water
may be used without' the mustard or pepper. If
the head is affected, put drafts upon the feet; and
if the bowels be costive, give injections of warm
water. Solid food should not be allowed; but when
the fever sets in, cooling drinks, such as lemon-
ade, tamarind-water, rice-water, flaxseed-tea,
thin-gruel, or cold water may be given in reaso-
nable quantities.

FE VER, T YPH 01D. — Typhoid fever is
generally preceded by several days of languor,

ow spirits and indisposition to exertion. There
is also, usually, some pain in the back and head,
loss of appetite, and drowsiness, though not rest.
The disease shows itself by a chill. During the
first week there is increased heat of the surface,
frequent pulse, furred tongue, restlessness and
sleeplessness, headache and ain in the back;
some times diarrhea and swe ling of the belly,
and sometimes nausea and vomiting. The second

 

week is often distinguished by small, rose-colored
spots on the belly, and a crop of little watery
pimples on the neck and chest, having the ap.
pearance of minute drops of sweat; the tongue is
dry and black, or red and sore; the teeth are
foul; there may be delirium, and dullness of
hearing; and the symptoms every way are more
serious than during the first week. Occasionally,
the bowels are at this period perforated or ate
through by ulceration, and the patient suddenly
sinks. If the disease proceeds unfavorably into
the third week, there is low, muttering delirium;
great exhaustion; sliding down of the patient to-
ward the foot of the bed; twitching of the musc-
les; bleeding from the bowels; and red or purple
spots upon the skin. If on the other hand, the
patient improves, the countenance brightens up,
the pulse moderates, the tongue cleans, and the
disc arges look healthy.-—Treatment—Give the
patient good air, and frequent spongings with
water, cold or tepid, as most agreeable. Keep
the bowels in order, and be more afraid of diar-
rhea than costiveness. Diarrhea should be re-
strained by injection of cold water. For costive-
ness, give mild injections, made slightly loosen-
ing by castor oil, or common molasses. To keep
down the fever, and produce perspiration, give

tincture of veratrum viride, ten drops everyhour.

If the bowels are swelled, relieve them by hot
fomentarion of hops and vinegar. If the pain in
the head is very severe and constant, let the hair
be cut short, and the head bathed frequently with
cold water. Give light nourishment, and if the de-
bility is great, broth will be needed. Cleanse
the mouth with very weak tea—old hyson. If
the fever runs a low course, and the patient is
very weak, quinine maybe given from the begin-
ning. Constant care, and good nursing, are very
important. Typhus fever is distinguished from
typhoid by there being no marked disease of the
bowels in typhus.

FE VER, YELLOW -—This disease is most
prevalent in hot climates,and southern cities of our
country. It comes in the latter part of summer,
and lasts till frosty weather.——Symptoms.—The
disease begins with a chill, generally not very
severe. Following the chill, there is moderate
fever, and some heat of the surface, but this
rarely rises to any great height, and only con-
tinues to the second or third day, when, in fatal
cases, it gives place to coldness of surface, etc.
In many cases there is sweating. The pulse is ,

eculiar, not often over a hundred, but feeling
like a bubble under the finger, which breaks and
vanishes before it can be fairly felt. The tongue
is moist and white in the first and second days;
but red, smooth, shining and dry as the disease
advances toward the close, having a dry, black
streak in the middle. The most striking symp~
toms are nausea and vomiting, which, in fatal
cases, is very persistent, and toward the last a
yellowish or greenish matter is thrown up, fol-
lowed by a discharge of thin black fluid, which
is called the black vomit. The bowels are gener-
ally costive, with tenderness in the upper bowels
or stomach. There is generally severe head.
aches, and apeculiar expression of face, in Wthh
the lips smile, while the rest of the face is fixed
and sad, sometimes wild. The patient continues
wakeful night and day. There are discharges of
blood, often from the nose, the gums, the ears,
the stomach, the bowels, and the urinary pas-
sages.—Treatmmt.—-First move the bowels With

 

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

some mild physic, such as sweet tincture of rhub-
arb, four ounces; bicarbonate of soda, two drams.

Mix. Give a tablespoonful once in three hours
until it operates. During the chill, use all the
usual means of warming the body by hot bottles,
mustard foot-bath, warm drinks, drafts, etc. A
warm poultice on the stomach is useful—some
would advise cupping. During the second, or
calm stage, give gentle stimulants, warm drinks,
and five-drop doses of veratrum viride, also
quinine. In the third stage, brandy, quinine,
and all stimulants freely. To quiet the vomiting,
give of this preparation: creosote, twenty drops;
spirits of mindererus, six ounces; and alcohol,
enough to dissolve the creosote. Dose, half an
ounce, every two hours.

Temperance, cleanliness, and all good habits,
do much to prevent this disease.

FITS—See “Epilepsy”.

FOOD fir BABIES—Mothers who are not
able to nurse their babies, find it almost impos-
sible to keep the milk they are compelled to use
so perfectly sweet as not to injure their little
ones. Ice, if it can be had, does not wholly
answer, even if its excessive cold does not change
the character of the milk. A few years since the
writer of this, while in a southern state, recom-
mended the following plan to a mother: Mix
your babe’s food milk with its due proportion of
sugar, and place the pitcher holding it in a deep
plate—a soupe-plate or pie-dish will do—and fill
the plate with cold water. Take a piece of thin
muslin, large enough to cover the whole pitcher
and reach down all sides into the water. Have
no cover on the pitcher, wet the cloth and cover
the pitcher with it; put its ends into the water,
and set the whole in a place where a draught of
air will pass over it. The mother tried the plan,
and during an exceedingly hot summer, through
the most sultry days and nights of a long season,
the milk never turned at all. The rationale of
the thing is easy. The milk is not confined in a
close vessel, ,or in danger of being tainted by
nearness to other, perhaps not wholesome food;
the thin gauze protects it, yet leaves it open;
the draught of air keeps the temperature down
by the constant evaporation, while the water is
constantly sucked up by the cloth, acting like a
wick in a lamp to supply the moisture.

_ GONORRIIEA, (Clap).——A tingling sensa-
tion at the end of the penis, which swells, looks
red and inflamed, followed by a discharge of
matter that stains the linen, first of a whitish,
then of a yellow or green color, a scalding pain
in making water, involuntary and painful erec-
tion.—-Trmtmmt.—— There are two kinds of this
affection, the mild and the virulent. The first
15 of so trivial a nature, that plentifiil draughts
of any soothing liquid, as barley-water, or flax-
“seed-tea, with a low diet, are sufficient to remove

“It: The second produces effects more or less
violent on different persons, and occasionally re-
ststs for months every remedy that can be thought

of. If there be much pain and inflammation in
the penis, apply a bread and milk poultice to it,
take a dose of salts, and lose some blood. This
15 the more necessary if, in consequence of the
swelling of the foreskin, it cannot be drawn back,
or being back, cannot be drawn forward. In the
meantime,take pretty large doses of the balsam co-
pzuva daily. A very low diet should be adhered to,
and the patient should remain erfectly quiet.

GLEET.~The weeping ofp thin glairy fluid,

 

225

like the white of an egg, from the penis, caused
by a long-continued clap—TrmbnmL—A gleet
is exceedingly diflicult to get rid of, and frequently _
defies every effort that is made for that purpose.
It must be attempted, however, by the daily use
of the cold bath, and thirty drops of the muriated
tincture of iron, taken three times a day, for
months, in a glass of the cold infusion of bark.
The best advice to be given in this case is to
apply at once to an intelligent surgeon, who will
prescribe injections of alum, sulphate of zinc, or
nitrate of silver.

ORA VEL—Gravel, which is a deposit of un-
natural substances in the urine, is indicated by a
sudden attack of pain in the region of the kid-
neys, so acute and severe as to frequently cause
fainting, and even convulsions. The pain runs
down to the groin and thigh, causing a numbness
of the affected side, and a drawing up of the
testicle. The pain is excessive at times, and then
remits. Finally it stops suddenly. The pain is
caused by the passing along the tubes which lead
from the kidneys to the bladder, the stones or
gravel which is found there. Sometimes the
gravel is so fine as to cause no pain, and is depo-
sited with the urine at the bottom of the vessel.
The deposites are of various kinds, indicating the
state of the health, and must be treated differ-
ently. But as none but a chemist or physician
could determine the nature of the deposits,
whether they where acid or alkaline, we will
leave the treatment also entirely to them.

GOU T, T 0 tuna—Take hot vinegar, and put
into it all the table salt which it will dissolve,
and bathe the parts affected with a soft piece of
flannel. Rub in with the hand, and dry the foot.
etc., by the fire. Repeat this operation four
times in the 24 hours, 15 minutes each time, for
four days; then twice a day for the same period;
then once, and follow this rule whenever the
symptoms show themselves at any future time.
A better cure, as also an infallible preventive, is
to live on bread and water alone twice a day, and
earn it by hard physical labor.

HEAL T137, Rule: for [harming—I. Pure.
atmospheric air is composed of nitrogen, oxygen.
and a very small proportion of carbonic acid gas.
Air once breathed has lost the chief part of it].
oxygen, and acquired a proportionate increase of
carbonic acid gas; therefore, health requires that
we breathe the same air~only onc.

2. The solid parts of our bodies are continually
wasting away, and require to be repaired by'
fresh substances; therefore, fpod, which is to re--
pair the loss, should be taken with due reference'
to exercise and the waste of body.

3. The fluid part of our bodies also wastes con--
stantly; there is but one fluid in animals, which:
is water; therefore, water only is necessary, and;
no artifice can produce a better drink.

4. The fluid of our bodies is to the solid in
proportion as nine to one; therefore, a like pro--
portion should prevail in the total amount of
food taken.

5. Light exercises an important influence upon:
the growth and vigor of animals and plants;
thefi'efore, our dwellings should freely admit:
lig t.

6. Decomposing vegetable and animal matter
yields various noxious gases, which enter the
lungs and corru tthe blood; therefore, all imm
purities should be kept away from our abodes,,
and every precaution used to secure pure air.

I

226

_ 7. Warmth is necessary to all the bodily func-
tions ; therefore, an equal bodily temperature
ghould be maintained by exercise, clothing or

re.

8. Exercise warms, invigorates, purifies the
body; clothing preserves the warmth the body
generates ; fire imparts warmth externally; there-
fore, to obtain and reserve warmth, exercise
and clothing are prefgrable to fire.

9. Fire consumes the oxygen of the air, and
produces noxious gases; therefore, the air is
less pure in the presence of candles, gas, or coal-
fire than otherwise; and the loss should be re-
paired by increased ventilation.

10. The skin is a highly-organized membrane,
full of minute pores, cells, blood-vessels, and
nerves ; it imbibes moisture, or throws it off, ac-
cording to the state of the atmosphere and the
tem erature of the body. It also breathes, as do
the ungs, though less actively. All the internal
organs sympathize with the skin; therefore, it
shouldbe cleansed frequently.

11. Late hours and anxious ursuits exhaust
the nervous system, and pro uce disease and
premature death; therefore, the hours of study
and labor should be short.

12. Mental and bodily exercise are equally es-
sential to health and happiness; therefore, re-
creation and study should succeed each other.

r3. Man will live most healthily upon simple
solids and fluids, of which a sufficient but tem-
perate quantity should be taken; therefore, strong
drinks, tobacco, snuff, and opium, and all mere
indulgences, should be avoided.

I4. Sudden alternations of heat and cold are
dangerous, especially to the young and aged;
therefore, the clothing should be sufficient, and
adapted to changes of temperature.

15. Moderation in eating and drinking, in labor
and study; recreation taken with regularity; rest,
cleanliness, even temper, an equable tempera-
ture, are the great essentials of health—which far
surpasses wealth in value.

HEA DA CHES. -— Headaches are always
symptoms of some derangement of the system in
some of its parts, and should not be neglected.
In children, they generally indicate the ap-
proach of some disease. In adults, they are oc-
casioned frequently by a bad circulation, impaired
digestion. and by affections of the nerves. For
the first, active exercise, and a slight physic, are
only necessary; for the second, light diet, with
exercise and a dose of some bitter alkali after
meals; and for the third, the same treatment as
for neuralgia, being careful about the diet. Some-
times a patient is subject to rheumatic headache,
which may be treated with warm fomentations,
stimulating liniment, and a gentle physic. The
patient should dress warmly, and avoid exposure
to cold and wet feet.

HEADACHE, Remediesfin—I. A doctor in
Paris has published a new remed for headaches.
He uses a mixture of ice and salt, in proportion
of one to one half, as a cold mixture, and this he
applies by means of a little purse of silk gauze,
with a rim of gutta percha, to limited spots on
the head, when rheumatic headaches are felt. It
gives instantaneous relief. The skin is subjected
to the process from half a minute to one and a
half minutes, and is rendered hard and white by
the application—2. Put a handful of salt into a
quart of water, add one ounce of spirits of harts-
horn and half an ounce of camphorated spirits of

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

wine. Put them quickly into a bottle, and cork
tightly to prevent the escape of the spirit. Soak
a piece of rag with the mixture, and apply it to
the head; wet the rag afresh as soon as it gets
heated—3. It is stated that two tea-spoons of
finely powdered charcoal, drank in half a tumbler
of water, will, in less than 15 minutes, give relief
to the sick headache, when caused, as in most
cases it is, by superabundance of acid on the
stomach. We have tried this remedy time and
again, and its efficacy in every instance has been
signally satisfactory.

[IEAD (Sat/d), in Infant:.-—This complaint
begins in brownish s ots on the head, and in a
few days forms a scab, and discharges a thick,
gluey matter, that sticks upon the hair. The
sores gradually increase, until the whole head is
covered with a scab, discharging this matter,
which is very offensive. The hair is to be cut of!
as close as possible, and the head washed every
night and morning with lime water. This is
easily prepared by slacking a piece of quicklime,
of the size of ahen’s egg, in a quart of water,
and when settled, it is to be put into a bottle and
corked for use.

[11234167, Palpiz‘alz'on (y’. —Palpitation and
irregular action of the heart are often experienced
in persons between the ages of sixteen and
twent years; they are, or have generally been,
grow g rapidly, are of delicate appearance, and
frequently are addicted to some vicious habits.
In such persons, the blood is thin and poor, and
the heart and nerves fail to perform their proper
function for want of support. Derangement of
the stomach. often gives rise to these symptoms,
and they may persist for a long period from this
cause. A lady who for years suffered from vio~
lent paroxysms of palpitation, which many phy-
sicians attributed to organic disease of the heart,
happened on one occasion to take some medicine
which induced vomiting, and this act was follow-
ed by immediate recovery. Subsequently, when-
ever she had the symptoms of an approaching at.
tack of palpitation, she resorted to an emetic,
which not only gave relief to the paroxysm, but
finally relieved her altogether. In another case,
a patient entered a hospital suffering severely
from violent action of the heart; he was bled,
and blistered, and purged without benefit; hav-
ing taken a large dose of medicine, vomiting en-
sued, with immediate and permanent relief.

Tea, and especially green tea, is very liable to
disturb the heart’s action when used by suscep-
tible persons. And there is no doubt that an
immense number of persons in every community
suffer from minor forms of heart derangement,
due to the use of tea. _

Tobacco, either smoked or chewed, invariably
effects the hearts action, and produces irregular-
ity and palpitation.

f/EAR TB URM~Anxiety and pain about the
region of the stomach, generally attended by a
sense of gnawing and heat; hence called heart«
burn. Faintness, nausea, and eructation of a
thin, acidulous, watery liquid, especially in the
morning, are common symptoms of this com-
plaint, The usual causes of heartburn are excess
in eating or drinking, the use of improper food,
and sedentary habits. A good remedy Is a tea-
spoonful of carbonate of magnesia, or carbonate
of soda, in a glass of peppermint or Cinnamon
water, to which a little powdered ginger may be
added with advantage. This dose may be taken

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL

2 or 3 times daily until the disease is removed.
Articles of food that easily undergo fermentation
should at the same time be avoided, and a dry
diet had recourse to as much as possible. Soda-
water, toast and water, and weak spirits and
water, are the most suitable beverages in this
complaint.

HEM ORRIIA GE, Uterine, To Prevent.—
Take sugar of lead, 10 grs.; ergot, Io grs. ;
opium, 3 grs.; ipecac, I gr.; all pulverized and
well mixed. Dose, 10 to 12 grs., given in a
little honey or syrup. In very bad cases after
childbirth, it might be repeated in 30 minutes, or
the dose increased to 15 or 18 grs.; but in cases
of rather profuse masting, repeat it once at the
end of 3 hours, or as the urgency of the case may
require.

HICCOUGE—A convulsive motion of the
diaphragm and parts adjacent. The common
causes are flatulency, indigestion, acidity, and
worms. It may usually be removed by the ex-
hibition of warm carminatives, cordials, cold
water, weak spirits, camphor julep; or spirits of
sal volatile. A sudden fright or surprise will
often produce the like effect. An instance is re-
corded of a delicate young lady that was troubled
with hiccough for some months, and who was
reduced to a state of extreme debility from the
loss of sleep occasioned thereby, who was cured
by a fright, after medicines and topical applica-
tions had failed. A pinch of snuff, a glass of
cold soda-water, or an ice-cream, will also fre-
quently remove this complaint.

I! OARSE/VE SS, Remedy fir. —— Take one
drachm of freshly scraped horse—radish root, to
be infused with four ounces of water in a close
vessel for three hours, and made into a syrup,
with double its quantity of vinegar. A teaspoon-
ful has often proved effectual.

HYDROPHOBIA.-—This terrible disease, the
result of the bite of a mad dog, or mad wolf, is a
disease for which there is no certain remedy. The
symptoms, after being bitten, are lancinating
pains in the scar of the wound, which dart toward
the body, if it be a limb that was bitten. Some-
times the wound feels cold, or stiff, or numb, or
grows red, swelled, or livid, and sometimes
breaks open and discharges matter. The patient
feels astrange anxiety, is depressed in spirits,
has an occasional chill, and disturbed sleep, or
spasmodic twitches. The pulse is above its na-
tural state, both in quickness and strength, and
the nervous system is very impressible. The
senses are all more acute; trifling noises produce
agitation, and the eyes are so disturbed by the
light that the patient sometimes hides himself in
a dark place; and the appetite is lost. In the
second stage there is thirst; but when the patient
attempts to drink, a spasmodic shudder comes
over him; he pushes away the water in horror,
and the awful conviction flashes over him that he
15 mad. After this he can not swallow fluids;
has stiffness in the neck; is thrown into convul-
srons by the sight or sound of water, by a breath
of.air blowing upon him, or by a bright light.
His throat is full of a viscid, glairy matter, which
be continually tries to clear away. Between con-
vulsions and exhaustion he lingers three or four
days, and dies.

In regard to preventive treatment, which is so
efficient, and therefore of vast importance, let it
be remembered that a mere scratch on the hand
or face is the most dangerous—4 bite through

 

227

clothing not without danger. As the poison ad-
heres to the part some time after the bite be-
fore it produces the effect, let the wound be in-
stantly washed, again and again, with soap and
water. If a physician were to vaccinate a child
in the arm, and an hour after should wash the
part with soap and water, no effect would result.

'While washing is being done, send instantly
to the nearest druggist for a piece of caustic pot-
ash. This comes in small cylindrical pieces. If
the tooth of the do has penetrated, cut the cau-
stic in the shape 0 a pencil or a dog’s tooth, in-
sert it in the wound and hold it there firmly for
a quarter of a minute without regard to the pain,
which will be severe. '

Caustic potash can be made extempore by
pouring boiling water on wood ashes, straining
out the ley, and boiling it down to the consistence
of molasses. It may be applied with a smooth
stick.

When the wound is a scratch, and therefore
the most dangerous, wipe it over briskly with the
same material. If the caustic potash cannot be
procured, use nitric acid (aqua fortis) or sulphuric
acid (oil of vitriol). Milder caustics, which do
not destroy the surface of the wound in which
the poison is lodged, are not worthy of confi-
dence, although Mr. Youatt recommends the ni-
trate of silver (lunar caustic). The part may be
poulticed with bread and milk for two days, and
then dressed with simple salve.

It is too common a practice to kill instantly a
savage dog who has bitten a person. This is
exceedingly wrong, as the person lives for years
with the torturing apprehension that he has been
bitten by- a rabid dog. The animal should be
shut up and regularly fed. If rabid, he will cer-
tainly die; but if he lives a week and takes food
there is no danger. .

It is generally believed that canine madness
occurs almost exclusively in summer, and espe-
cially during what are termed the “dog days.”
This is a popular error. According to the best
authority, the disease is communicated only by
contagion, and just as likely to be propagated in
winter as in summer, and therefore city ordinan-
ces, which allow dogs to be at large at one season
and not at another, are absurd. See also “Mad
Dog Bites” on page H.

INDIGESTIOM Remedy or. — Half an
ounce of ground Turkey rhubar ; I drachm of
sulphate of quinine ; I drachm of extract of sar-
saparilla. Put the sarsaparilla into a cup with
3 or 4 teaspoonfuls of cold water; let it stand till
disolved ; then add the other ingredients. Make
it into a stiff paste; it will then be ready to make
into pills with the use of a little flour. The
whole costs but a small sum and makes nearly
100 pills. The dose is 2 pills every other night.

INFLUENZA. —— Influenza, which, in its
lighter form, is simply a cold, may become a
very serious and troublesome complaint. It be-
gins generally with a tingling and sensé of full-
ness in the mucous membrane of the nose, mak-
ing breathing through the nose difficult, and pro-
ducing sneezing. The eyes become red and
watery, the throat is sore, and there is a dry
cough, hoarseness, thirst, lassitude, and chilli-
ness. The mucous membrane of the nose, throat.
and breathing-tubes, is red and inflamed, some-
times swollen and painful. The water runs from
the eyes and nose, and the cough begins to be
accompanied by expectoration 0 yellow matter.

:28

Pain in the back and limbs, alternate heat and
chills, and loss of appetite, accompany the dis-
ease.——Trtatment.——A very mild treatment is
required only, such as bathing the feet in warm
water, sweating, drinking warm herb—teas, slip-
pery elm, and taking a very light diet. Some
slight laxative may also be given. If the disease
is very severe, it may be necessary to give an
emetic of the compound tincture of lobelia, or
the powder of ipecac, 10 to 20 grains. If the
cough is severe, give this: tincture of lobelia,
half an ounce; syrup of squills, half an ounce.
Mix. 20 drops four or five times a day.

IA’T OX I CA T 1 02V, Remtdz'e: fan—Among
the remedies employed to remove the intoxication
produced by the use of alcoholic drinks, the pre-
parations of ammonia and the vegetable acids are
the most common and important. About 2 or 3
fluid drachms of aromatic spirits of ammonia
(spirits of sal volatile) mixed with a wineglassful
of water will generally neutralize or greatly les-
sen the action of intoxicating liquors. This some-
times produces vomiting, but this is a desirable
result, as nothing so effectually removes the
drunken fit as the thorough removal of the liquor
from the stomach: hence tickling the throat with
the finger or a feather is a common resource.
Soda~water acts by the free carbonic acid it con-
tains, and serves also as a tonic to the stomach.

Vinegar, among the acids, is one of the most'

effective remedies, a small teaspoonful being a
customary dose. In the West Indies, lime juice
and lemon juice are used. The use of bitter al-
monds, as a means of lessening or retarding the
effects of fermented liquors was known to anti-
quity, and is still common among heavy drinkers
at the resent day. See also “Drunkeness.”

1T l1.—This disease is generally consequent
upon personal uncleanliness, yet all classes are
liable to it. Its symptoms are the eruption of
distinct, cone-like, watery pimples, transparent
on their summits, accompanied by excessive itch-
ing, which is made worse by high-seasoned food,
by drinking liquor, and by the heat of the bed.
When these pimples are scratched and torn, a
sticky, watery fluid is poured out, which forms
small scabs; and in time, if the disease is not
cured, these scabs being torn off, bad sores are
made. This disease is caused by a minute insect,
which forces its way into the skin, and makes
cavities for its own occupation, while the victim
itches and scratches in consequence.

T reatmmt.—To kill the insect which causes the
annoyance is the way to cure the disturbance.
For this purpose, the compound sulphur ointment
is a sovereign remedy. Four ounces of this
should be well rubbed into the skin, before the
fire, morning and evening, for three or four days.
Caustic potash, one part, to twelve parts of water,
as a wash to be thoroughly applied, is a good re-
medy. Before using any application, the person
should be washed with warm water and soap,
and well dried, The Prussian military authori-
ties cure itch by smearing the parts with a mix-
ture of two parts of liquid storax with one part
of sweet oil. The cure is said to be complete in
twenty four hours.

I T C11, Pctroltumfor.—Dr. Decaisne, of Bel-
gium, reports having used successfully the oil of

etroleum in upward of six hundred cases of
itch. In the great majority of cases the disease
was completely cured after a single friction; in
several after two, and in a very few instances

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

three or four applications were required. The
method failed in two or three cases only, and in
these sulphurate of lime was necessar to effect
a cure. It is not necessary, as some mi itary sur-
geons have thought, to rub in the oil with coarse
towels and brushes, but on the contrary, the sof-
test brushes should be used to spread the oil on
the skin. Dr. Decaisne, from experiments insti-
tuted in the military hospital and garrison at
Antwerp, on the disinfection of the clothing, be~
lieves that this process is quite unnecessary. Even
if some of the germs of the itch insect should ad-
here to the wearing apparel, these are destroyed
by the action of the petroleum with which the
person of the patient is saturated.

ITCII, Barber’r.—This appears on the hairy
part of the face—the chin, upper lip, the region
of the whiskers, the eyebrows, and nape of the
neck. It consists in little conical elevations,
which maturate at the top, and have the shaft of
a hair passing through them. These pimples are‘
of a pale, yellowish color. In a few days they
burst, and the matter running out, forms into
hard, brownish crusts. These crusts fall off in
one or two weeks, leaving purplish, sluggish
pimples behind which disappear very slowly.
The disease is thought to be caused by using a
dull razor in shaving; and is very obstinate,
lasting for months, or even ears—Treatment.
The most important part of the treatment is the
removal of the cause. The beard must not be
pulled will a dull razor, and the shaving had
better be discontinued altogether, the beard being
simply cropped off with the scissors. All intem-
perance in eating or drinking must be avoided,
as well as exposing the face to heat. A light,
cool diet will do much toward a cure.

I T C17, Bakers. —This disease is of common
occurence on the uands of bakers; hence the vul-
gar name.—Trtat.—Frequent ablution in warm
water, keeping the bowels open with saline pur-
gatives, and the nightly use of sulphur ointment
will generally effect a cure. Salt food should be
avoided as much as possible, as well as keeping
the hands covered with dough and flour; the lat-
ter being the cause of the disease.

7.4 UNDICE.—The most prominent symp-
toms of this disease are, yellowness of the skin
and whites of the eyes, saffron-colored urine, and
whitish or clay-colored stools. An infusion of
thoroughwort, drank freely every day, is a good
remedy. The diet should be plain, wholesome
and nourishing, composed mostly of vegetable
articles. Cold water should be the only drink.

KIDZVE YS, Acute Inflammafion of. ——The
symptoms of this disease are,at first,cold chills and
rigors, especially in the back and loins, followed
by fever and pain. The pain frequently extends
to the bladder, the loins, the thighs, and is of a.
severe and lancinating kind—though a little ob-
tuse. Pressure, motion, straining, or taking a
full breath, add to its pungency. The urine is
scanty and high~colored, sometimes bloody, and
can only be passed drop by drop. In the loms
there is a sense of heat, gnawing, and constric-
tion, and the bowels are irregular. A numbness
of the thigh, and drawing up of the testicle, are
marked and peculiar symptoms. In some cases
there is nausea and vomiting, faintness, hiecough,
distension of the bowels, which rumble, etc. The
skin is dry and hot; pulse hard and frequent.—
T realmmI.—Either ut the feet in ahot mus-
tard bath, or put clra ts of mustard on the feet.

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

22'9

 

Also apply the same upon the small of the back,
and follow it up with hot fomentations of hops or
stramonium-leaves. Induce perspiration by the
use of veratrum viride, in ten-drop doses ever

hour. If the bowels are costive, open them wit

salts or cream of tartar, or, better still, by fre-
quent and copious injections of warm water con-
taininga few drops of tincture of arnica. The
drinks must be slippery elm, flaxseed-tea, and
the like cooling infusions. If the disease be-
comes chronic, which is indicated by weakness
in the small of the back, and dull, heavy pain in
the kidneys, by the small quantity of urine pas-
sed often, and its white color, use the diuretics,
buchu, trailing arbutus, queen of the meadow,
and open the bowels with a gentle physic, if
necessary. Use the alkaline bath, daily, with
friction. A mustard-poultice, two or three times
a week, upon the small of the back, should be

,used. The diet should be very careful.

LEAD Poisoning—M. Didierjean, a red-lead
manufacturer, has discovered that the use of milk
at their meals, which he has made obligatory on
his workmen to the extent of one litre daily, re-
serves those employed in lead works free rom
any symptom of lead‘disease.

LEECHES, To Apply—One of the opera-
tions generally intrusted to the nurse is the ap-
plication of leeches. The part to which they are
to be applied should be carefully and thoroughly
washed with soap and warm water, then dried,
and again just moistened with fresh milk. The
leeches having been put into a wineglass or
tumbler (according to their number), it should
be. quickly inverted, and pressed firmly on the
skin, so as to prevent them from escaping under
the edge of the glass.

LEUCORRHEA, (“ Wilma”) This is the
term applied to a colorless, white or yellowish
discharge, secreted from either the Mucus Mem-
brane of the Vagina or Uterus, or both. The
cause which produces the Whites may have its
seat either in the Vagina, or in the neck of the
Womb. If it be thin and watery, or thick and
cream like, it is from the Vagina; if ropy, gluey
or albuminous, like white of egg, it is from the
cavrty of the neck. The treatment consists in
strengthening the arts, by the wearing of perfect-
ly loose clothing, ip baths, and cold water injec-
tions five or six times a day, with active friction
on the back, hips and lower part of the abdomen.
No sexual intercourse must be allowed while a
cure is unaffected

LIVER, Acute Inflammation qfi—The office
of the liver is to take the superabundant carbon
out of the blood This carbon unites with other
elements, and forms bile—the peculiar bitter sub-
stance which is poured into the upper bowel, and
greatly aids digestion. The liver is liable to
become inflamed from several causes: such as
gravel-stones, external violence, suppressed se-
cretions, hot climates, inflammation of the duo-
denum, etc. The symptomr of acute inflammation
of this organ are, fever, with pain in the right
Side,.and a sense of tension, inability to lie on the
left Side, difficulty of breathing, a dry cough, vom-
iting and hiccough. The pain is generally acute
and lancinating, though sometimes dull and ten-
srvez .When sharp, it is like the stitch of pleurisy,
and it indicates that the peritoneum which covers
the liver_is inflamed. When dull, it is in the body
of the liver itself. The pulse is full, hard and
strong, the bowels costive, and the stools clay-

 

colored, owing to not being tinged with bile—
this having stop ed flowing. The tongue is cov-
ered with a ye low, dark-brown, or even black
coat, and there is a bitter taste in the mouth.

T reatment.——It may be necessary to apply wet
cups, or leeches, over the liver. Purgatives must
be used pretty freely, and those which produce
watery stools are the best. Senna-leaves, two
drachms, steeped in a pint of water, to which is
added, when cool, one ounce of Epsom salts.
Strain, and give one-fourth of the preparation for
a dose; this is a brisk purge. It will be neces-
sary to blister the surface over the liver generally,
though a mustard-poultice will answer in mild
cases. A poultice of mustard on the spine is also
of service in relieving the pain. A foot-bath fric-
tion, and sour drinks, are good. Perspiration,
induced by a vapor-bath, and kept up by giving
the tincture of American hellebore, from three to
ten drops an hour, is excellent. When the urine
is scanty and high-colored, give some diuretic, as
an infusion of marshmallow-root, or the seeds of
the pumpkin steeped to make a tea. The diet
should be of the lightest kind, until the patient is
somewhat recovered.

LIVER, C/zronic Inflammation o/I—This is a
difficult disease to cure. Its symptom are a.
sense ot fullness and weight in the right side,
with some enlargement, and shooting pains in
the same region, especially when it is pressed,
with pains in one or both shoulders, and under
the shoulder-blades ; uncomfortable sensation
when lying on the left side; yellowness of the
skin, eyes, and urine; bowels irregular, loose or
costive; appetite disturbed; sometimes a dry,
hacking cough; shortness of breath, tongue
whitish, and brown or yellow toward the root;
a bitter and bad taste in the morning. The urine
deposits a sediment on standing. There is usually
a low and desponding state of the mind, with ir-
ritability and peevishness of temper. The skin
is often covered with yellow spots, and with a
branny substance. The various symptoms of
dyspepsia are present. The nervous system is
apt to be disturbed, and there is a disinclination
to apply the mind, or a dread of some impending
evil.

Treatment—4f there is much tenderness of the
liver, begin with mustard-poultices, and the com~
pound pills of podophyllin, or the compound pills
of leptandrin: podophyllin, fifteen grains; lep-
tandrin, two scruples; cream of tartar, five scru-

ples. Mix. Divide into ten powders. One is
a dose. The compound tarvplaster is often very
useful. An alterative will be found useful. The

daily alkaline sponge-bath must on no account be
neglected. Vigorous friction should follow it.
If the constitution will bear it, it is well to vary
the sponge-bath with an occasional shower-bath.
The diet must be simple, yet nourishing, and em-
bracing but a small amount of fat. But, above
all, out-door exercise must be taken to the full
amount of the strength, and the thoughts occupied
with cheerful subjects. Avoid the hot sun, and
let the summer exercise be taken in the cool of
the day. The recovery from any chronic disease
must necessarily be slow, therefore the patient
must not be discouraged, but should persevere
steadily until the benefit is felt.

LOCK—j’AI/V. -This is a spasmodic con-
traction or stiffness of the voluntary muscles.
Sometimes it is partial, and sometimes extends to
the whole system. It is produced by exposure,

23o

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

to cold, by bodily injuries, or by the injury of a
nerve. Symptomr.—There is long-continued,
violent and painful cramping of the voluntary
muscles. At first there is difficulty and uneast-
ness in turning the head, with inability to open
the mouth easi y—then the jaws close gradually,
but with ‘great firmness, swallowing becomes
diflicult, and a pain, starting from the breast bone,
pierces through to the back—probably caused by
cramp of the midriff. The cramps now extend to
the whole body, the muscles of which continue in
{a state of rigid spasm till the disease yields or
the atient dies. The appearance of the patient
is frightful, the face being contorted, and the fea—
tures set in a ghastly grim—Treatment—The
only known remedy for this disease is chloroform
or ether, taken either into the stomach, or by in-
halation, in quantities sufficient to control the
spasm—being repeated as long as the spasms
occur. The costiveness must be removed by one
or two drops of Croton oil, given in a spoonful
of gruel.

LUNGS, How-to arterz‘ain stale aft—Persons
desirous of ascertaining the true state of their
lungs, are directed to draw in as much breath as
they conveniently can; they are then to count as
far as they are able, in a slow and audible voice,
without drawing in more breath. The number
of secouds they can continue counting must be
carefully observed; in a consumptive the time
does not exceed ten, and is frequently less than
six seconds ; in pleurisy and pneumonia it ranges
from nine to four seconds. When the lungs are
in a sound condition, the time will range as high
as from twenty to thirty-five seconds.

LUNGS, How to Strengtfim.——Many inven-
tions have been sought out for expanding the
lungs, but the following simple means will ac-
complish the work as well as it can possibly be
done. Go into the air, stand erect, throw back
the head and shoulders, and draw the air through
the nostrils into the lungs as much as possible.
After having thus filled the lungs, raise your
arms, still extended, and suck in the air. When
we have thus forced the arms backwards, with
the chest open, change the process by which you
draw in your breath, till the lungs are emptied.
Go through the process several times a day, and
it will enlarge the chest, give the lungs better
play, and serve very much to ward off consump-
tion. If the lungs are tender, or the blood ves-.
sels weak, due care must be used at first not to
over-strain them.

LUNGS, Inflammation of.—The patient lies
upon his back, and has some pain in his side,
some difficulty of breathing, a dry cough at first,
but soon accompanied by a mixture of phlegm
and blood. As the disease increases, this matter
becomes more tenacious; there is increased dif-
ficulty in breathing; greater prostration ; and
often some delirium. In the first stage of the
disease, the lungs are crowded with blood; in
the second the lungs are so swelled and thickened
up as to force out the air, and become solid; in
the third stage, matter is found diffused through
the whole substance of the lungs. The matter
raised is thinner, and looks like prune-juice.
From this stage persons rarely recover.—Treat~
went—The first thing to be done is to give an
emetic, either of compound powder of lobelia,
tartrate of antimony, or pulverized ipecac. The
next thing is to produce sweating by the same
means as in pleurisy, If there is much fever,

 

and a rapid pulse, it is better to give tincture o!
veratrum viride, ever hour, in from three to
ten-drop doses, for the purpose of sweating.
.Mustard-plaster on the chest, to be put on, and
taken off several times, and when the surface
grows sore, it must be changed to another, so as
to affect the chest extensively.

Open the bowels with a preparation of salts, or
magnesia. . Give the patient for drinks flaxseed
or slippery elm tea, and let the diet be barley-
water, lemonade, Indian-meal gruel, very thin,
crust-coffee, etc. As the fever abates, the cough
will need attention. To quiet this, give Tartar
emetic, one grain; boiling water, ten drams.
Mix. Take one teaspoonful every hour. When
the fever is gone, if the patient is feeble and low,
give tonics, such as compound infusion of gen.
tian, eight ounces; nitro-muriatic acid, thirty
drops. Mix. Take a tablespoonful three times
a day; and guard against a rela se.

If the fever takes a typhoid form, great care
must be used not to give reducing remedies.
The purgatives must be more mild, and the torn
ics used more freely, while the cough is kept
loose by slippery elm, or flaxseed, or marshmal-
low-tea.

MEASLES.—This is an acute inflammation
of the skin, both external and internal, combined
with an infectious fever.— Symptoms—Chills,
succeeded by great heat, languor, and drowsiness,
pains in the head, back, and limbs; quick pulse;
soreness of throat; thirst, nausea, vomiting, a
dry cough, and high -colored urine. These
symptoms increase in violence for four days.
“The eyes are inflamed and weak; and the nose
pours forth a watery secretion, with frequent
sneezing. There is considerable inflammation of
the larynx, windpipe, and bronchial tubes, with
soreness of the breast, and hoarseness. About
the fourth day the skin is covered with a break-
ing out which produces heat and itching; and is
red in spots, upon the face first, gradually
spreading over the whole body. It goes off in
the same way, from the face first, and then from
the body, and the hoarseness and other symptoms
decline with it. At last the outside skin peels
off in scales—Treatment—In a. mild form noth-
ing is required but a light diet, slightly acid
drinks, and flaxseed or slippery elm tea. Warm
herb teas, and frequent sponge baths with tepid
water, serve to allay the fever. Care should be
taken not to let the patient take cold.

AIEASLES, (Fake) or Rosc—Ra:lz.—This ap-
pears with the same general symptoms as meas-
les, and continues for about five days; or some.
times c0mes and goes for several weeks. The
rash appears in small irregular patches, paler
than those of measles, and of a more roseate
color.—-—-Treatmmt should be alight diet, acid
drinks and gentle laxatives; or if the disease
assumes a darker red, and the patches are more
elevated, a tonic is needed.

MENSTIC UA TIOJV, Age at whim it_ 6:07"-
mmcer.——Dr. Walter Rigden gives the subjomed
statistics obtained from females who were con-
fined at University College.Hospital. In 2,696
cases menstruation occured for the first time:

At the age of— At the age of—'
9 in 3 cases. 14 in 560 cases.
10 (t 14 H 15 (t 540 6‘
II l‘ 60 K‘ 16 H 455 ¢ (
12 “ I70 “ 1%“ 272 ‘1
- 13 I‘ 353 3‘ t H ‘50 ‘

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

231

 

At the age of— At the age of—

:9 in 76 cases. 23 in 2 cases.
20 l‘ 29 “ 24 3‘ 0 l‘
21 l‘ 7 H 25 u o (t

22 M 3 C‘ 26 H 2 M
It appears that it is most common at 14 years

of a e.

[lgENSTR UA TIOZV, Retained—This may
be known by a sense of weight or fulness in the
pelvic region, which is increased at each men-
strual period; a feeling of weakness and heavmess
in the back and loins, aching sensation down the
thighs, etc. The treatment requires the aid of a
surgeon.

MENSTRUA TIOJV, Painful.—This is ge-
nerally caused by sudden colds at the menstrual
period, or soon after delivery, by exhaustipn,
caused by the luxurious indulgences of c1v1-
lized life, by unnatural or excessive excitement of
the organs. The symptoms are pain in the pel-
vis, weakness and distress in the small of the
back, tenderness and swelling of the breasts,
headache, etc.. Clots of blood are formed in the
uterus, and sometimes a false membrane is thrown
off, either entire or in shreds, which is expelled
with violent bearing-down efforts, with intervals
of comparative case, like those of child-birth.
These pains, and the expulsion of a membrane,
might readily be mistaken for a miscarriage. The
attacks last from one to four days, during which
time many patients are unable to walk or even
stand, and especially so during the bearing—down
contractions of the uterus, while others are oblig-
ed to keep their beds. A cure can only be ef-
fected by means of proper treatment during the
intervals. The bowels should be kept regular
py right diet, and, when constipated. should be

reed by enemas of tepid water. Vaginal injec-

tions ofwarm water, and warm or hot sitz-batbs,
should be employed. Every lawof health should
be observed, and every possible cause of ill health
abstained from. A free, happy, unexcited and
unexhausting life will greatly help. During the
attack a cold or hot sitz-bath should be taken,
and continued while the pain lasts. The relief
is more immediate by the hot bath; but the cold
bath, at a temperature of from sixty to seventy-
five degrees, is the best. At the same time a hot
foot-bath, as well as vaginal injections, may be
employed. These baths should be repeated on
every return of the pain.

MILK SICKNESS. — This is a disease
which prevails in the West, in the neighborhood
chiefly of level, heavily timbered, rather wet oak
land. The plant the eating of which causes the
milk to be poisonous is not known. The symp-
toms of the disease are, a sickness at the stomach,
and weakness and trembling of the legs. There
is vomiting, and a peculiarly offensive breath.
These symptoms continue for weeks, and are
often all that are shown in this complaint; but in
some severer cases, there are chills and flashes
of heat, great oppression about the heart, anxiety,
deep breathing, heat in the stomach, violent
retching and vomiting, alarming beatings of the
heart, and throbbing of the large vessels, and
cold extremities. In most cases, the vomiting
returns every hour or two, attended by a great
burning at the pit of the stomach, the substance
thrown up having a peculiar bluish-green color,
and a sour smell. As soon as this discharge
takes place, the patient falls back upon the pillow,
and lies easy until another turn comes round.

 

The tongue is covered with a whitish coat, and
the bowels are obstinately costive. The pulse is
small and quick. The treatment does not vary
much from that pursued for inflammation of the
stomach.

M 0U T H, Ulteratz'on of. ——This frequently
takes place in children whose state of health is
below par. It is caused chiefly by a disordered
state of the stomach, but occasionally the cause
is local, viz., the stump or sharp edge of a de-
cayed tooth. The ulcers sometimes appear as
little white specks on the tongue and lining
membrane of the mouth, constituting the disease
called thrush or aphthze. This form is frequently
seen in infants when nursing, and may be trans-
ferred from the infant’s mouth to the mother’s
nipple.

When the ulcers are caused by a disordered
state of the stomach, two or three tablespoonfuls
of the following mixture should be taken every
second or third morning: powdered rhubarb and
bicarbonate of soda, of each two drachms; infu-
sion of rhubarb and infusion of gentian, of each
four ounces. Mix. When caused by the sharp
edge or stump of a tooth, the tooth must be re-
moved or the sharp edge filed away. Children
suffering from thrush should be given a nutritious
diet with tonics; the tongue and inside of the
mouth should be freely painted over with a
gargle, composed of borax, two drachms; and
glycerine, one ounce, a camel’s hair pencil being
used.

MUMPS. —- This disease, most common
among children, begins with soreness and stiff-
ness in the side of the neck. Soon a swelling of
the paraotid gland takes place, which is painful,
and continues to increase for four or five days.
sometimes making it diflicult to swallow, or open
the mouth. The swelling sometimes comes on
one side at a time, but commonly upon both.
There is often heat and sometimes fever, with a
dry skin, quick pulse, furred tongue, constipated
bowels, and scanty and high-colored urine. The
disease is contagious. The treatment is very
simple,—a mild diet, gentle laxatives, occasional
hot fomentations, and wearing a piece of flannel
round the throat.

NE URALGIA.-—This is apain of the nerves,
the disease only affecting the nervous tissue, and
giving but one symptom—pain. It may occur
in almost any part of the system, and is known
under various names—Tic Douloureux, Face-
ache, Hemicrania, Sciatica—according to its lo-
cation. It may be occasioned by miasm, in fever
and ague districts; or by whatever debilitates
the system, as hysterics, too long suckling an in-
fant, or low diet.—Treatment.—For external use,
the following linlment is excellent: white soap,
twelve ounces ; camphor, six ounces; oil of rose—
mary, one and ahalf ounces ; alcohol, four pints ;
opium, three ounces. Mix and filter. Where
the disease is caused by miasm, the treatment
must be with quinine, iron and other tonics, to
get up the blood. Plenty of exercise in the open
air is important, if well protected from the
weather.

IVER V0 USNESS.—The cure of nervousness
is best efl'ected by restoring the healthy action of
the stomach and bowels, and by the use of pro-
per exercise, especially in the open air. The
stomach should not be overloaded with indigest-
ible food, and the bowels should be occasionally
relieved by the use of some mild aperient. Aber«

232 DICTIONARY OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

nethy’s injunction to a nervous and dyspeptic
lady, "‘Dismiss your servants, madam, and make
your own beds”, should be recollected by all
as aproof of the importance that eminent surgeon
attached to exercise.

NE URALGIA, 0M” Remm’t'erfir.—I. The
application of bruised horse-radish. —-— 2. One
drachm (loses of hypophosphite of soda, taken
three times a day in beef tea, is a good remedy
for this painful affection—3. The oil of pepper-
mint lightly applied to the seat of pain with a
camel-hair pencil will afford relief.

NIGHT-MARE, To prevent.——Eat nothing
after 3 o’clock p. m. and no night-mare will ever
assert its suffocating presence.

1VIPPLES, Sara—Nursing mothers are some
times seriously troubled with this painful aflic-
tion, and would be willing to make almost any
sacrifice to have a cure for it. The following
simple mixture, will give immediate relief: Pow-
dered borax, a small, even teaspoonful ; pure
water two-thirds of a teacupful, alcohol, one and
a half tablespoonful. Mix and use, washing the
nipples with it. Or take ripe raw tomatoes, pare
and cut them up; then stir in flour enough to
make a stiff dough. Roll and work it with the
hands until it becomes very smooth. Spread a
thin plaster and apply it to the affected part with
a cloth over it, changing the dry plasters for fresh
ones as often as necessary. This keeps up a con-
stant perspiration, which is what is needed. If
you cannot get tomatoes, a dough made with
cold water and flour will answer.

NOSE-BLEED.—This may be caused by
violence, or may arise from an impoverished state
of the blood. When it occurs in persons of
middle age it is more serious, as it is then often
a symptom of some other disease. The bleeding
can generally be stopped by making the patient
raise both his arms above his head, and hold
them there for some time. Sponging with cold
or iced water to the forehead and face, or apply-
ing a towel wet with cold water between the
shoulders, will, in most cases, succeed. The
application of a strong solution of alum or iron-
aum to the inside of the nostrils or plugging
the nostrils with lint or cotton wool soaked in
the solution, may be necessary if the bleeding
is profuse. See also page 12.

NURSING SICK CHILDREN—This is a
more delicate task than nursing adults. The
greatest watchfulness and judgment are necessary
to determine the meaning of their symptoms, and
in giving medicines. Just as great care should
be observed not to disturb them, as if they were
able to make complaints of any carelessness.
Let the room, where a child is sick, be shady,
quiet, and cool. Be careful not to speak so sud-
denly as to startle the half-sleeping patient; and
handle it with the greatest tenderness,_when it is
necessary to move it. ,

If it is the lungs that suffer, have. the little pa-
tient somewhat elevated upon pillows for easier
breathing, and doing every thing to soothe and
make it comfortable, so as not to have it cry, and
thus distress its inflamed lungs.

In all fevers and bowel complaints, especial
attention must be given to frequent sponging of
the skin with te id water; and great care exer-
cised not to bur en the stomach with too much
food or drink. If the skin becomes irritated for
any reason, sprinkle it with flour or pulverized
starch. If the child is very weak, be careful not

 

to move it too suddenly, as it may be startledinto
convulsions. In administering a bath, the greatest
pains must be taken not to frighten the child. It
should be put in so gradually, and so insensibly
amused by something placed in the water on pur-
pose, as to forget its fear.

PAPULOUS SCALL.—Papulous seal] is a
mattery pimple developed in a highly inflamed
skin. The blisters are about the size of a s lit
pea, and are surrounded by a red ring. T ey
are generally separate, not clustered like crusted
tetter. They are scattered over various parts oi
the body, and are followed by a hard black crust,
or by a sore. The disease is either acute or
chronic. The chronic form is found in weakly
children, or persons reduced by sickness or low
living.—T7ralmmt.-—For the acute form, low
diet, gentle laxatives, cold sponge-bath on the
sound parts, and an ointment of oxide of zinc,
one dram; spermaceti ointment, one ounce,
mixed. For the chronic form, tonics should be
given internally, and the above ointment used.

FILES—This is another very. common com-
plaint, and one which causes great distress. It
consists in a fullness of blood, and languid circu-
lation in the lower part of the bowel or rectum.
In consequence of this congestion, either the
veins of the gut become enlarged or varicose, or
the blood gets infiltratedinto the cells beneath the
mucous membrane, and collects so as to form
bloody tumors. These tumors, which are sel.
dom absent, are the leading feature of the piles.
Sometimes they appear externally, around the
anus; this is external piles. At other times they are
within the bowel; the complaint is then called
internal piles. When the blood is discharged,
they are called bleeding piles; and when not,
blind piles.

Symptomr.—Usually there is a sense of weight
and weakness in the lower part of the back and
loins, with a painful itching about the anus. On
going to stool, there is a burning, cutting pain
experienced, which is followed by bearing down
and tenesmus. Ifit be bleeding piles, the little
tumors will bleed at every motion of the bowels.
There is often disagreeable sensations in the head,
and an irritable state of mind, and a sense of
fullness and anxiety in the stomach. The disease
is caused by habitual costiveness, sitting a great
deal, riding much on horseback, high-seasoned
food, over exertion, and induration of the liver.
It is also very common in pregnancy from sev-
eral causes. .

T rmfluent—:Medicines—purges in particular
-——must mtbe taken. The costiveness may be
corrected as before mentioned ; or if it is neces-
sary to give something to move the bowels, let it
be this: confection of senna, two ounces; cream
tartar, 'one ounce; flower of sulphur, one ounce;
syrup of ginger, enough to make a stiff paste.
Mix. A piece as large as a nutmeg is to be taken
as often as necessary to keep the bowels open.
A soothing ointment, made of two ounces of
lard, and one dram of sulphur, and rubbed be-
tween two plates ot lead until it is well blackened,
is excellent for an application to the parts. Fre-
quent injections of cool water will do as much as
any thing to allay the inflammation. Steaming
the parts over a hot decoction of hops, or stra-
monium, will frequently give relief. The diet
must be cooling and loosening.

PIMPLES, DR Y.-——Dry Pimples, under the
several names of Red Gum, Tooth Rash, as seen

 

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

in children, and Lichen and Prurigo in adults,
are exceedingly troublesome, and if much scratch-
ed and torn, may form painful sores. Prurlgo
often causes elderly people a great deal of suffer-
ing, giving them no rest day or night, from
the tormenting sensation of numberless ants
crawling upon the skin, or red-hot needles pierc-
ing it. .

T reatmmt.—Careful diet, and gentle cathartics,
or tonics, accordingto the condition of the system.
Externally, cold, salt-water sponge-bath, and
glycerine, applied with a soft sponge, Vinegar
and water, or creosote ointment. If the itching
affects some very sensitive parts, a wash of rose-
water, four ounces; pulverized borax, half an
ounce; sulphate of morphine, six grains, should
be used many times a day.

PLEUA’IS Y. — This is an inflammation of
that membrane which lines the chest, and covers
the outer surface of the lungs. It generally
commences by shiverings, which are soon follow-
ed by a high fever, with a peculiarly hard, resist-
ing pulse; sharp, stabbing pain in the side?
generally just below the nipple, but sometimes
extending to the shoulder, arm pit and back;
hurried and interrupted breathing; and a short,
dry cough. The pain is aggravated by motion,
coughing, or taking a long breath. The patient
can not lie on the affected side, he is anxious,
and afraid to move for fear of the pain, which
often causes him to cry out. At a more advanced
stage, the patient lies on the ailing side, in order
to leave the other lung more at libertv.—Trazt-
ment—Bleeding is commonly resorted to in this
disease; but it should not be resorted to, if thor-
ough sweating can be made to answer the pur-
pose. The compound tincture ot Virginia snake—
root will generally induce free perspiration, if
given every half-hour in teaspoonful doses. It
may be given in an infusion of balm, or catnip.
At the same time the affected side should be fo-
mented with hops, tansy, wormwood, etc., appli-
ed quite hot.

PROUD FLESII, To Remom’. — Pulverize
loaf-sugar very fine, and apply it to the part af-
fected. This is a new and easy remedy, and is
said to remove it entirely without pain.

POX, CHICKEM—An eruptive skin disease,
consisting of smooth vesicles of various sizes,
which afterwards become white and straw colored,
and about the fourth day break and scale off. In
hot weather the discharge sometimes becomes
purulent, and at others the eruption is attended
with considerable fever. The treatment consists
in the adoption of a light vegetable diet, and in
the administration of mild aperients and cooling
drinks. .

POX, COW. —This disease was proposed as
a substitute and preventive of smallpox, by Dr.
Jenner in I 798. The success which has followed
its artificial production has nearly led to the ex-
tinction of smallpox in England. The process
of vaccination is similar to that of inoculation for
the smallpox, before noticed. About the third
day the puncture usually becomes red and ele-
vated, and continues to enlarge and become vesic-
ular, until at about the 8th or 9th day, it is at its
height, and the vesicle is surrounded with a florid
areola. About the eleventh or twelfth day these
symptoms decline; the centre of the pustule be-
comes brown, and a dark scale gradually forms
and separates, leaving the arm as heretofore.
This disease seldom requires medical treatment;

 

233

but should febrile symptoms come on, an aperient
may be 'ven.

POX, SMALL—This disease comes on with
the usual symptoms of inflammatory fever. About
the third day, red spots, resembling flea bites,
make their appearance on the face and head, and
gradually extend over the. whole body. About
the fifth day small circulartvesicles, depressed in
the centre, surrounded by an areola, and con-
taining a colorless fluid, begin to form, when the
feverish symptoms abate; about the sixth day
the throat becomes sore; about the eighth day
the face 15 swollen, and about the eleventh day
the pustules acquire the size of a pea, and cease
to enlarge, the matter which they contain be-
comes opaque and yellow, a dark central spot
forms on each, the swelling of the face subsides,
and secondary symptoms of fever come on; the
pustules become rou‘gh, break and scab over,
and a dark spot remains for some days, often fol-
lowed by permanent indentation. At the end of
the sixteenth or eighteenth day, the symptoms
usually disappear. In the confluent smallpox,
the pustules coalesce, the eruption is irregular in
its progress, and the inflammatory symptoms are
more severe. The treatment of ordinary cases
of smallpox resembles that mentioned above for
chicken-pox. The apartment should be large,
cool, and well-ventilated. The windows should
be open day and night, and the linen changed
daily. During the discharge of the pustules,
change it twice a day. The patient should be
taken into the open air often. Children and
others, even if they have been vaccinated, should
not visit the sick-room, though they need not,
leave the house. After the disease is over, the
bed and bedding should be scoured, the roam
fumigated, and thoroughly cleansed. , It is stated
that if a patient, in the beginning of the attack,
be put in a room from which absolutely all light
is excluded save that of a candle, the effect is to
arrest the disease in the papular or vesicular
stage; it never becomes purulent, and the skin
between the vesicles is never inflamed or swollen;
the liquor sanguinis is prevented from becoming
pus; the large scabs of matter never form over
the face; there is no intense pain, and only tri-
fling itching, and the smell is either very slight
or altogether wantin .

POX, (SA/A LL) Remedz'trfon—I. The treat-
ment of small-pox in the State Almshouse in
Massachusetts, where the disease prevailed
for three months. has been singularly successful.
Out of about sixty cases, but one fatal result:
occurred, and that was in the case of a man who
was taken to the house in the last stage of the
disease. The remedy used with so much success
was a tea made from a plant known in the Ma-
teria Medica as Serracenia Purpura, familiarly
called Ladies’ Saddle or Water Cup, the medicinal
virtue of whichlies in the root. The effect of
the remedy, which has been newly discovered
and found remarkably efficient whenever tried,
is to allay the fever and irritation caused by the
formation of pustules, which are rapidly dried up,
leaving but slight, if any, traces.

2. A remedy practiced in China is when the
preceding fever is at its height, and just before
the eruption appears, the chest is rubbed with
croton oil and tartar emetic ointment. .This
causes the whole of the eruption to appear in
that part of the body, to the relief of the rest.
It also secures a full and complete eruption, and

234

thus prevents the disease from attacking the inter-
nal organs.

POX (Small), Fitting z'n.—I. In a case re-
cently treated, in which the eruption so com-
pletely covered the face that it was almost im—
possible to place the point of the finger on it,
without toutching it in one or more places, Dr. J.
C.Whitehall, succeeded in. absorbing the “pocks”
completely, by anointing the face freely with a
solution of carbolic acid, I scruple, and bi-sul-

hate of soda, 2 drachms, in an ounce of pure
resh glycerine, and causing each vesicle, as soon
as formed, to be punctured with a finely pointed
hard wood skewer and some of the solution in-
troduced. At the same time light was excluded,
as far as possible, from the room, and a liniment
of croton oil used over the chest as a revulsive.
Not a “pit” was formed on the face—2. I. H.
Bird, M. D., uses an ointment made of charcoal
and lard to prevent pitting in smallpox. This is
applied freely over the surface of the face, neck
and hands, as soon as the disease is distinguish-
ed, and continued until all symptoms of suppu-
rative fever have ceased. The application allays
the itching, and seems to shorten the duration of
the disease, and leaves the patient without a
blemish, the eruption protected by the ointment
not even showing signs of pustulation; the char-
coal preventing the action of light, and lard that
of air.—3. The Melia Azidavaclita L. of India is
used in that country by the natives to cover the
bodies of patients recovering from small-pox, it
being believed to prevent the marks becoming

ermanent. Dr. Wight says of it: The leaves

eaten into a pulp and externally applied act like
a charm in removing the most intractable form
of psora and other pustules of an eruptive nature.
—-4. Sweet oil and lime-water, as these are ge—
nerally prepared for applications to burns or
water-scalds, will operate to prevent or allay all
irritation, and hinder the discoloration of the
cuticle and the pitting, which are so often the ac-
companiment of this fearful disorder.

QUINSK—This is an inflammation of the
tonsils, or common inflammatory sore throat;
commences with a slight feverish attack, with
considerable pain and swelling of the tonsils,
causing some difficulty in swallowing; as the at-
tack advances these symptoms become more in-
tense, there is headache, thirst, a painful sense
of tension, and acute darting painsin the ears.
The attack is generally brought on by exposure
to cold, and lasts from five to seven days, when
it subsides naturally, or an abscess may form in
tonsil and burst, or the tonsil may remain enlarg-
ed, the inflammation subsiding.

T reatment.—The patient should remain in a
warm room, the diet chiefly milk and good broths,
some cooling laxative and diaphoretic medicine
may be given; but the greatest relief will be found
in the frequent inhalation of the steam of hot
water through an inhaler, or in the old-fashioned
way through the spout of a teapot.

RHE UA/A TISM.—Rheumatism is a painful
afiection, brought on, when acute, most frequent-
ly by exposure to cold, and wet feet. Rheuma-
tism is caused by acrid or poisonous matter in
the blood, and has for its seat the fibrous tissue,
or that thready texture which enters into the com-

osition of the cords and muscles of the human

ody. The lining membrane of the joints is
peculiarly liable to rheumatic affection.

RHEUMA T151”, Arum—This has for its

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

symptoms, high fever, full pulse, furredtongue,
profuse, sour sweat, scanty, high-colored urine,
swelling of the joints, with slight redness, great
tenderness, and severe pain. It often changes
from one set of joints to another, or to various
parts of the body. This sudden shifting is very
dangerous, for the inflammation is apt to seize
upon the lining membrane of the heart, which
may prove fatal.-— Treatment—Keep the bowels
open. Give tincture of black cohosh and tinc-
ture of veratruin viride—one drachm of the
first, and two ounces of the last; mix, and
give a teaspoonful, three times a day, or
often enough to produce sweating. If the disease
is reduced by this, and the exhaustion not too
great, continue it untii the disease abates. Tinc-
ture of black Cohosh-root, and tincture of col- ,
chicum-root, in proportion of two parts of the
first to one of the last, is an excellent remedy.
Forty drops is a dose. Fomentations of hops,
on the inflamed joints, will generally'bring relief.
The system wants building up with tonics and
nourishing diet, when subject to this disease.

' IfleUMA T151”, Chroma—This is not at-
tended by fever, but generally lasts a long time,
and is the cause of much suffering. Its symptoms
are, stiffness and lameness of thejoints, some-

.times a little swelling, and inability to move

these joints without great trouble at first; but as
the patient grows warm with exercise, the dif-
ficulty disappears.

Treal77zmt.———Tlie electro-magnetic treatment
is excellent, generally perfectly successful. Lini-
ment of sweet oil, one ounce; water of ammonia,
one ounce; mixed and rubbed on with flannel,
is very good; or, soap liniment, two ounces;
chloroform, one dram; mixed. Tincture of black
cohosh is very useful as an internal remedy.
Dose, forty drops. A piece of oiled silk, worn
over the joint, keeps up a perspiration, and aids
in the cure. Sweet oil, rubbed on before the fire
on going to bed, is also good. The bowels should
be kept regular,

R111? UMA T151”, Ot/zer Remedies fox—I.
Bathe the parts affected with water in which po-
tatoes have been boiled, as hot as can be borne,
just before going to bed; by the next morning it
will be much relieved, if not removed. One ap-
plication of this simple remedy has cured the
most obstinate of. rheumatic pains-2. Half an
ounce of pulverized salpetre put in half a pint of
sweet oil; bathe the parts affected, and a sound
cure will be speedily effected—3. Rheumatism
has frequently been cured by a persistent use 0
lemon-juice, either undiluted or in the form of
lemonade. Suck half a lemon every morning
before breakfast, and occasionally during the day,
and partake of lemonade when thirsty in prefer-
ence to any other drink. If severely afflicted, a
physician should be consulted; but, in all cases,
lemon-juice will hasten the cure—4. By the .
valerian bath, made simply by taking one pound
of valerian root, boiling it gently for about a
quarter of an hour in one gallon of water, strain-
ing and adding the strained liquid to about
twenty gallons of water in an ordinary bath. The
temperature should be about 98°, and the time
of immersion from twenty minutes to half an
hour. Pains must be taken to dry the patient
perfectly upon getting out of the bath. If the
inflammation remain refractory in any of the
joints, linseed meal poultices should be made with
a strong decoctiou of valerian root, and applied.

 

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

RING (TIGHT), To Ramona—It is seldom
necessary to file off a ring, too tight to.¢adil

ass the joint of the finger. If the finger IS swo -
Em, apply cold water to reduce the inflammation,
then wrap a small rag wet in hot water around
the ring to expand the metal, and soap the finger.
A needle threaded with strong silk can then be

assed between the ring and finger, and a person
liolding the two ends and pulling the silk while
slowly sliding it around the periphery of the ring
.may readily remove the ring. If the ring 1s a
plain hoop this process is easy; if it has. a setting
or protuberance more care will be required. An-
other method is to pass a piece of sewmg $11k
under the ring and wind the thread, in pretty
close spirals and snugly, around the finger to the
end. Then take the lower end—that below ring
—and begin unwinding. The ring is certain to
be removed unless the silk is weak. The wind-
ing compresses the finger and renders the opera-
tion less difficult.

RING WORM—r. Take yellow-dock root;
cut in small pieces, and simmer them in vinegar,
and when the strength is extracted, strain off the
vinegar, which apply to the part affected at least
three times a day. At the same time, it is well
to drink a tea made of the same root; or take
some of the extract of yellow-dock root, which
can be found at any drug store.—2. The head to
be washed twice a day with soft soap and warm
soft water; when dried, the places to be rubbed
with a piece of linen rag dipped in ammonia from
gas tar.——3. Take the back of a silver watch or
any smooth piece of silver, rub on and around
the sore a few minutes four to six times; it will
soon cure it.

ROOM How to Cool—The simplest and cheap-
est way to cool a room is to wet a cloth of any
size, the larger the better, and suspend it in the
place you want cooled. Let the room be well
ventilated, and the temperature will sink from
ten to twelve degrees in less than an hour. This
is the plan adopted by many Eastern nations.

RUPTURE.—The first thing to be done is to

ut the bowel back in its place, by gently press-
mg and kneading the tumor, and swaying it back
and forth—being careful to use no violence—
until it can be pushed within the abdominal
walls. It is then to be kept in its place by the
use of a truss, worn all the time.

S CRA TCHES.—Trifling as scratches often
seem, they ought never to be neglected, but
should be covered and protected, and kept clean
and dry, until they have completely healed. If
there is the least appearance of inflammation, no
time should be lost in applying a large bread
and water poultice, or hot flannels repeatedly
applied, or even leeches in good numbers may
be put on at some distance from each other.

SCROFULA.—It is useless to describe this
disease, or to mention its causes. It is an evil
as patent as it is dreadful. Being hereditary, it
may never be eradicated wholly from the consti-
tution, but may no doubt be alleviated—Tran!-
ment.-—Iodine is the one great remedy for this
disease. Dissolve one scruple of iodine and
two scruples of iodide of potassium in seven tea-
spoonfuls of water. Of this, give ten drops three
times a day in a little water, gradually increasing
the dose to one and a half or two times that
amount. Where there is much debility, the

_xodide of iron, in doses of twenty-five or thirty
drops, in water, three times a. day, should be

 

335

given. Medicinal springs, containing iodine, are
excellent. The condition of the bowels should
be always looked to, keeping them open. Bath-
ing fre uently, exercise out of doors, healthy air,
cheerfu ness, and a nourishing diet, are all ne-
cessar . Either flannel or silk should be worn
next t e skin summer and winter.

The tumors should be bathed, before they be-
come much sore, with a solution of muriate of
lime, several times a day. If they are inflamed,
apply poultices of slippery elm, and powdered
bayberry, equal parts. Flaxseed-poultices are
good. When the tumors are opened, the ulcers
must be washed out with soap-suds, and dressed
with a salve made of beeswax and sweet oil;
change two or three times a day. Red iodide of
mercury-ointment is needed when the ulcers are
indolent. Saleratus-water baths are good.

5 CUR V K—This is a disease which seamen
on a long voyage, and men on long journeys
over uninhabited countries, are subject to; and
is occasioned probably by too much salt food,
and other unnatural habits. Its symptoms are,
languor, loss of strength, and great depression
of mind. The patient has no energy to move;
the whole skin looks pale and bloated, and the
breath has a fetid smell. The gums are soft, red,
swelled, and spongy, and bleed upon the slight-
est touch; sometimes the blood oozes from them
spontaneously. The teeth get loose, and often fall
out. The skin is spotted with purple, as if it
were bruised, and the spots running together,
form large discolored patches. Ulcerous sores
break out on various parts of the body, and dis-
charge a thin matter. The ulcers are covered
with a crust. Twinging pains assail even thet
bones; the pulse is weak; all the secretions have
an offensive smell; and, in truth, the whole body
is approaching putridity; the flesh dwindles
away, and the bones break easily. In bad cases,
blood is discharged from the bladder, bowels,
womb, nose, mouth; and the smallest exertion
is followed by fainting, and in some cases by
sudden death.—Trmlmmz'.—Quinine is one of
the most important medicines in this disease; it
may be given in from one to two-grain doses,
twice or three times a day. Gentian and quassia
are also suitable remedies; so is muriatic tincture
of iron. But better than all are fresh and juicy
vegetables and fruits. Spinage, sorrel, lettuce,
dandelion, cresses, and the like, are the very
best things, when they can be had. Lemon-juice
is excellent. Potatoes, when scraped and eaten
raw, are especially good; also valuable cooked.
Spruce-beer is good, and may be made at sea
from the essence, as may also many kinds of
beer. To correct costiveness, crearfi of tartar in
water, drank freely, will be needed. For loose-
ness, give a tea made of logwood or geranium.
Apply a solution of alum to the gums, or tinc-
ture of myrrh. Vinegar is good in this disease,
and should always be carried to sea, together
with dried fruits, and various dried herbs. The
patient suffering with this disease should be
moved with care, as life may be easily extin.
guished.

SEA SICKA’ESS.——Those liable to be sick
should make a hearty meal not more then two or
three hours before going on board. They should
select a spot as near as possible to the centre of
the vessel, and lie down before she gets under
weigh. The horizontal position should be rigidly
kept during the whole passage. The person

236

should be well covered, not only to protect from
cold, but to shield from disagreeable sounds,
sights, and smells. A stateroom should be se-
lected as near as possible to the center of the ship,
but not near the furnaces. In going to Europe,
it is better to be on the starboard, and, in return-
ing on the port side which will be the sunny
one. The following suggestions for the preven-
tion of sea sickness have proven efficacious:

I . Have every reparation made at least
twenty-four hours before starting, so that the
system may not be exhausted by overwork and
want of sleep. This direction is particularly im-
portant for ladies, though useful to all.

2. Eat as heartya meal as possible before going
on board.

3. Go on board sufficiently early to arrange
such things as may be wanted for the first day or
two, so that they may be easy of access; then
undress and go to bed before the vessel gets un-
der weigh. The neglect of this rule by those
who are liable to sea-sickness is sure to be re-
gretted.

4. Eat regularly and heartily, but without
raising the head, for at least one or two days.
In this way the habit of digestion is kept up, the
strength is preserved, while the system be-

comes accustomed to the constant change of equi- '

librium.

5. On the first night out, take some mild laxa-
tive pills, as for example, two or three of the
compound rhubarb pills. Most persons have a
tendency to become constipated at sea, although
diarrhoea occurs in a certain per-centage. Con-
stipation not only results from sea-sickness, but
in turn aggravates it. The efl‘ervescing laxa-
tives, like the seidlitz, or the solution of the
citrate of magnesia, taken in the morning on an
emgny stomach, are bad in sea-sickness.

. After having become so far habituated to the
sea as to be able to take your meals at the table
and to go on deck, never think of rising until
you have eaten something, as a plate of oatmeal
porridge, or a cup of coffee or tea, with sea bis-
cuit or toast.

7. If subsequently during the voyage the sea
should become unusually rough, go to bed before
getting sick. It is foolish to dare anything when
there is no glory to be won, and something may
be lost.

SICK', Foodfor.-—The greatest care should be
taken in the preparation of food for the sick. It
should be just right, or the weakened and sen-
sitive appetite will refuse it. If gruel is scorched
in preparing, or whatever you attempt fails the
first time to be as nice as it should be, throw it
away and make more. Be scrupulously neat in
serving it up. Use your prettiest dishes and
finest napkins. Something depends upon looks;
and the eye of a sick person may be unusually
critical. Except in the preparation of light pud-
dings, the process of baking is inadmissible for
the sick. Roasting is better—a light roast po-
tato is sometimes very acceptable. Meats should
be delicately broiled, except when boiled for
broths.

SICK-ROOM, Pure A z'r in.—The disagreeable
and unhealthy evil of the foul gas escaping from
a kerosene lamp burnt all night in a sick-room is
very easil remedied. All that is necessary is to
take a raisin or any suitable-sized box, that will
contain the lamp when set up on end. Place the
lamp in the box, outside the window, with the

 

DICTIOJVAR Y 01“ E VER Y-DA Y IVAN TS.

en side facing the room. When there are
blincI, the box can be attached to each by leav-
ing them a little open and fastening with a cord;
or the lamp box can be nailed to the window
casing in a ermanent manner. The lamp burns
quite as we 1 outside, and adecided improvement
of the air in the room is experienced.

SICKROOIW, Caution in visiting—Never
venture into a sick-room in a violent pers iration
(if circumstances require a continuance t ere for
any time), for the moment the body becomes
cold, it is in a state likely to absorb the infection,
and receive the disease. Nor visit a sick person
(especially if the complaint be of a contagious
nature), with an empty stomach ; as this disposes
the system more readily to receive the infection.
In attending a sick person, stand where the air
passes from the door or window to the bed of the
diseased, not betwixt the diseased person and
any fire that is in the room, as the heat of the
fire will draw the infectious vapor in that direc-
tion, and much danger would arise from breath.
ing in it. Do not enter the room the first thing
in the morning before it has been aired; and
when you come away, take some food, change
your clothing immediately, and expose the latter
to the air for some days. '

SKIIV, Di:colarzzz’.—As moles, freckles, sun-
burn, etc., is the result of diseased action. It is
not best to meddle with moles. For the change
of color called sunburn, a lotion made of two
ounces of lime—water, and two ounces of flaxseed
oil, is the best. Freckles are removed with the
same, or with this : corrosive sublimate, five
grains; almond mixture, half a pint. Mix and
apply. If the skin is bleached in spots, apply
some stimulating liniment.

SA’IIV- GRAF TIN G.——In aletter to the Lon-
don Lancet, David Fiddes, Surgeon to the Royal
Infirmary, states that it is unnecessary to Iput the
patient to the pain of cutting a piece 01 ealthy
skin from the body for the purpose of transplan-
tation. All that is necessary to be done, is to
take a long bistoury or razor and shave or scrape
off the epidermis scales from the convex aspects
of the forearms and thighs, and place them on
the healthy granulations. This can best be done
by brushing the scales off the bistoury with a
camel hair pencil. After securing them in sttu
for three or four days by means of adhesive
plaster, the granulations on which the epidermis
scales were placed assume a glazed, bluish ap-
pearance, which gradually grows into skin, and
meets the nearest edge of the healing ulcer,
which edge shoots out, and meets the newly
formed skin on the granulation.

SLEEPLESSNESS, C ure fbr.—Go without
supper. If accustomed to drink tea, take none
in the latter part of the day, and gradually leave
it off altogether. Spend some hours of the after-
noon in the open air; avoid everything calculated
to excite the mind in the latter part of the da ,
sedulously putting away all thought and ta k
about business ; seek cheerful, but not boisterous
sociability—that which is sedative rather than
that which is exciting; have the sleeping room
well ventilated; avoid sleeping on feathers; at
night lay off all garments worn during the day
and ut on fresh ones ; sleep alone; and getting
into ed take a comfortable position and deter-
minedly keep it till sleep comes, compellmgyour-
self to avoid tossing and tumbling, and fidgetmg
about. Learn to control your mental activrties;

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

when you get to bed stop thinking; if your
thoughts begin to wander in an direction, bring
them back and hold them steadi y to a fixed omt.
Keep this up till you become master 0 your
thoughts. Then in all directions seek to bring
the entire system under the control of the laws
of life and health, and be patient. Sleeplessness
is a thing not to be overcome in a day, any more
than rheumatism or bronchitis.

1:; If you find yourself inclined to wake up at a
regular hour in the night and remain awake, you
can break up the habit in three days, by getting
up as soon as you wake, and not going to sleep
again until your usual hour for retiring; or retire
two hours later, and rise two hours earlier, for
three days in succession not sleeping a moment
in the daytime.

Nervous persons, who are troubled with wake-
fulness and excitability, usually have a strong
tendency of blood to the brain, with cold extremi-
ties. The pressure of the blood on the brain
keeps it in a stimulant or wakeful state, and the
pulsations in the head are often painful. Let
such rise, and chafe the body and extremities
with a brush or towel, or rub smartly with the
hands to promote circulation and withdraw the
excessive amount of blood from the brain, and
they will fall asleep in a few moments. A cold
bath, or a sponge bath and rubbing, or a good
run, or a rapid walk in the open air, or going up
and down stairs a few times just before retiring,
will aid in equalizing circulation and promoting
s eep.

SLEEP fbr INFANTS. —Infants can not
sleep too long; it is well when the can enjoy a
calm and long-continued rest, 0 which they
should by no means be deprived, as this is the
greatest support granted them by nature. A
child lives com aratively much faster than an
adult; its blood) flows more rapidly, and sleep
promotes more uniform circulation, and facili-
tates digestion, while a horizontal position is fa-
vorable to growth and development. Still, sleep
should be proportioned to the age. After six
months, the time of sleep, can be regulated. An
infant should alwa 5 sleep the whole night in
preference to the ay, and as it grows older, a
few hours morning and afternoon; and, after a
while, to sleep after dinner will be sufficient.
After a child is four or five years old, its time of
sleep may be shortened one hour every succeed-
ing ear, so that a child of seven will not require
to s eep more than eight or nine hours.

SLEEP, Position in.——Sleeping-rooms should
always be so arranged, if possible, to allow the
head of the sleeper to be towards the north.
Frequently, in cases of sickness, a person will
find it impossible to obtain rest if the head is in
any other direction, and often a cure is retarded
for a long time. A Vienna physician had a pa-
tient who was suffering from acute rheumatism,
With painful cramps running from the shoulders
to the fingers; and, while his head was to the
south, he could do nothing towards his relief.
On turning the bed, however, so the head was
towards the north, the patient uttered expressions
of pleasure, and in a few hours a great improve-
ment had taken place, and he was in a few days
almost entirely cured. Many other cases are
given by scientific persons; and people, in build-
ing houses, should always have this in view.

.SLEEPING TOGETHER. — During the
night there is considerable exhalation from our

 

237

bodies, and at the same time we absorb a large
uantity of the vapors of the-surrounding air.
‘wo healthy young children sleeping together
will naturally give and receive healthy exhala-
tions; but an old, weak person near a child will,
in exchange for health, only return weakness.
A sick mother near her daughter communicates
sickly emanations to her; if the mother has a
cough of long duration, the daughter will at
some time also cough and suffer by it; if the
mother has pulmonary consumption. it will be
ultimately communicated to her child. It is
known that the bed of a consumptive is a power-
ful and sure cause of contagion, as well for men
as for women, and the more so for young per-
sons. Parents and friends ought to oppose as
much as is in their power the sleeping together
of old and young persons, of the sick and of the
healthy. Another reason ought to forbid every
mother or nurse keeping small children with them
in bed; notwithstanding the advice of prudence,
no year passes that we do not hear of a new in-
voluntary infanticide. A bab full of life, health
and vigor in the evening is ound dead the next
morning, suffocated by its parents or nurse.

SPZJN T ERS, T 0 Extract. -— Thorns and
splinters finding their way under the skin fre-
quently give no inconsiderable pain, and unless
extracted, the annoyance may be very great, as
inflammation will in all probability ensue, which
is the process nature adopts for getting rid of the
cause of irritation. If the splinter or thorn can-
not be immediately extracted,-——-for which purpose
a needle will be found in most cases a sufficient
surgical instrument,—linen dipped in hot-water
ought to be bound round the place, or the part
may be bathed in hot water. In the event of
inflammation, which may probably issue on the
production of an ulcer, the steam of hot water
should be applied, and afterwards a poultice of
bread and milk.

SPLEEN, Chronic Inflammation if. — The
symptoms are a feeling of tightness and pain in
the left side—the pain being increased on pressure,
or by lying upon the left side. Sometimes the
organ enlarges, so as to be felt by the hand.
There is sometimes numbness, weakness of the
legs, palpitation of the heart, difficulty of breath.
ing, inability to exercise much, obstinate con-
stipation, vomiting of food, piles, dry skin, tongue
coated white or red, low spirits, and occasionally
dropsical affections. Treatment‘should be about
the same as in inflammation of the liver. After
the active inflammation is subdued, the warm
bath may be used once or twice a week. In thd
chronic form of the disease, counter irritation with
the compound tar-plaster, with mustard-poul-
tices, Croton oil, or tincture of iodine, will be
particularly needed. Keep the bowels open, and
if the patient is pale and bloodless, give iron as
a tonic.

SPRAlM—As soon as possible after the acci.
dent get a calico bandage one to two yards long,
and two to two and a half inches wide; wet it in
cold water, and roll it smoothly and firmly round
the injured part. Keep the limb at rest, exposed
to the air, and continually damp with cold water.
The sooner after the accident the bandage is ap.
plied, the less pain and swelling there will be;
but if pain becomes excessive, care must be taken
to slightly loosen the bandage.

SPASMS, Remedy fan—Take of acetate of
morphia, I grain; spirit of $2.1 volatile, 1 fl. 02.3

 

 

 

.238

sulphuric ether, I fl. oz. ; Camphor julep, 4fl. oz.
Mix. It should be kept closely corked, in a cool
lace, and should be well shaken before use. —
ose. A teaspoonful in a glassful of cold water
or wine, as required.

S Q UIIVT IN G. -— Squinting frequently arises

from the unequal strength of the eyes, the weaker
eye being turned away from the object, to avoid
the fatigue of exertion. Cases of squinting of
long standing have often been cured by covering
the stronger eye, and thereby compelling the
.weaker one to exertion.
' It is well known that in infancy there is not
unfrequently a tendency to squint; this often
passes away as the child increases in age; but it
sometimes becomes quite a fixed habit, demand-
ing the knife of the oculist for its permanent
cure. A means of rendering this operation un-
necessary by curing the tendency in early life
has been suggested, which is worthy of trial. A
pair of spectacles is rocured without any glasses
in them. One of tie orifices opposite the eye
that squints is to be filled with thin horn or with
ground glass, and in the centre of the horn or
glass is to be made a small hole. It is obvious
that to see with the squinting eye it isnecessary
for the child to look directly through the orifice
in the centre. He will thus acquire the habit of
looking forward towards an object, instead of
looking to the right or left hand of it. It is not
at all improbable that the slight squint, which in
infancy is apparently only a habit, may be re-
medied by this means.

5 TOMA Cf], A rid—Prepared chalk, to be
found always at druggists, is an excellent remedy
for this complaint, and all the unpleasant head-
aches and sickness to which it gives rise. This
is one form of dyspepsia, and is sometimes re-
lieved by the use of this simple remedy.

S TOJIIA CH, A cute Inflammation of.—This is
a rare disease, and generally comes from irritat-
ing and corrosive substances being taken into
the stomach. Blows, sudden stoppage of sweat,
and excessive use of ardent spirits, may also
excite it. The symptoms are, a burning pain in
the stomach, thirst, restlessness, anxiety, con-
stant vomiting, rostration of strength, quick,
hard and small pu se, incessant retchin g, a sunken
countenance, hiccough, cold hands and feet, and
a damp skim—TreatmenL—U the inflammation
be excited by poison, the remedies named under
antidotes for poisons, must be first employed.
The poison being neutralized or thrown off, the
inflammatory condition must be combated with
the remedies usual for such states. Mustard-
poultices to the feet, along the spine, and over
the pit of the stomach, will be among the first
things resorted to, and should be followed by hot
fomentations with stramonium-leaves or hops,
repeating these applications as long as required.
For drinks, give rice-water, toast-water, arrow-
root gruel, slippery-elm infusion, and cold water.
These should be taken in very small quantities
——a teaspoonful at a time-—about twenty dro s
of tincture of aconite-root being added to half;
tumblerful. Lumps of ice held to the mouth, or
occasionally swallowed, may be usetul. Neither
physic nor emetics are proper now, but injections
of simple soapsuds will be required. The re-
medies must be followed up until the tenderness
of the stomach is all gone. Be very careful not
to overload the stomach before perfect recovery
has taken place. Only the simplest and most

 

DICTIONARYOFEVERY-DA Y WANTS.

cooling diet can be used during the period of re.

covery. _

S TOMA C17, Chronic Inflammation raft—This
is known by a pain in the stomach, increased by
the presence of food, by belching up gas, by
vomiting, fickle appetite, seasons of thirst, tongue
white in the center and red at the tip, or some-
times red and smooth, is a disease which some-
times ends by ulceration of the stomach, and
death.

T reatmmt.-—Counter-irritants over the stom-
ach, as in acute inflammation, frequent warm or
cold baths, according to the patient’s constitution;
a cold compress worn on the stomach at night;
and the most careful diet, consisting mostly of

m-water, rice-water, arrow~root gruel, toast
without butter, etc. In two or three weeks the
disease will yield, under this persistent starving
and cooling system.

STRICTURES. — A difficulty in passing
water, which, instead of flowing in a full stream,
either dribbles away, twists like a corkscrew, or
splits and forks in two or three directions. They
are occasioned by strong injections, long-con-
tinued or ill-treated clap. The cause, however,
is not always to be satisfactorily ascertained.—
T reaz‘mmt.—Procure several bougies of different
sizes. Take .the largest one, dip it in sweet oil,
and pass it into the urethra till it meets with the
stricture, then make amark on the bougie, so
that when it is withdrawn you can tell how far
down the passage the obstruction exists, and
having ascertained this, take the smallest one,
well oiled, and endeavor to pass it an inch or
two beyond the stricture. If this can be accom-
plished, let it remain so a few minutes. This
must be repeated every day, letting the instru.
ment remain somewhat longer each time it is
passed, and after a few days using one a little
larger, and so on progressively until the largest
one can be introduced. If this fails, apply to a
surgeon, who may destroy it with caustic or the
knife.

ST. VITUS’ DA]VC.E.—This disease affects
mostly the muscles and the limbs, and consists
of an involuntary motion of both. A jerking of
the limbs prevents their obeying the will, and
the patient in vain essays to do what he wishes
at the first attempt. The disease is believed to
be a partial palsy of the muscles. It is caused
by whatever excites and weakens the nervous
system.— T reatmmt.—Remove, in the first place,
all causes of excitement, and substitute active
out-door exercise. Be careful not to excite fear,
anger, or any strong emotion. If the food has
been too stimulating, replace it by cooling, simple
diet; or if too low, give more nourishing articles.
Regulate the bowels, and build up the nervous
system by giving tonics, and nerve medicines.
This is a good medicine: extract of scullcap, two
drams; extract of chamomile, two drams; extract
of boneset, one dram; quinine, one dram;
cayenne, one scruple; oil of valerian, halt a
dram. Beat well together, and make ninety

ills. .For an adult, one pill every two or three

ours. A tepid shower-bath is excellent, unless
it frightens the atient, when it should be changed
for the sponge- ath. _

.S' UNS T ROK' E, to A midi—There is something
to be remembered by those most liable to sun-
stroke."’-“Sobriety is a great preventative. :The
man who abstains from all spirituous drinks .dub
ing excessively hot weather is vastly less liable

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

to sunstroke than he who drinks habitually. Re-
gular hours for sleep and meals, and the avord-
ance of all irregularities and excesses, are among
the other reventatives. Bathing, washing, or
sponging the skin all over in the morning is a
wholesome precaution. Every one employed out
doors, that can possibly do 'it, should wear a
light, easy-fitting, broad-brimmed hat. Brick-
layers, carpenters, laborers, mortar- makers,
hod-carriers, and all others working in the sun,
should have some kind of shed or shade handy,
where they can rest for a few minutes at short
intervals of half an hour or so. People otherwise
engaged on the streets, or who have to go about
on business, should be careful to keep on the
shady side, to look well to their head gear, so as
to insure that which is light and porous, and
those who have leisure should carry sun-umbrel-
las. To cure see page I .

S WEA T [N G, Prqfurc.——-An old remedy for
excessive sweating is cold sage tea. It is_ made
by taking a large teaspoonful of chopped sage
leaves, and boiling them in six ounces of water
for two or three minutes. The decoction is then
left to stand and cool, and is strained and sweet-
ened to the taste. This remedy has been used
with benefit in the colliquative sweating, as it is
called, of pulmonary consumption.

S W'EA TING, To Produce.—Pour alcohol in-
to a saucer, to about half fill it; place this under
a chair; strip the person, to be sweated, of all
clothing, and place him in the chair, putting a
comforter over him, also; now light a match and
throw into the saucer of alcohol, which sets it on
fire, and by the time the alcohol is burned out
he will be in a profuse erspiration, if not, put
in half as much more 0 alcohol and fire it again,
which will accom lish the object; then rise up
and draw the com orter around you, and get into
bed, following up with hot teas and sweating

rops.
S WELLING, Waiter—Dr. Kirkland recom-
mends a volatile plaster for this disease, made
after the following manner: Melt together in an
iron ladle, or earthen i kin, two ounces of soap
and half an ounce of3 litharge plaster. When
nearly cold, stir in one drachm of sal ammoniac,
in fine powder; spread upon leather, and apply
to the joint as above. If the above method fail,
and ulceration take place, a surgeon should be
applied to without delay.
TAPE WORM.—I. A boy, six years old, had
been troubled for about a year with tapeworm,
was directed to take fifteen drops of turpentine,
in the form of an emulsion, three times daily, for
a week, and afterward that two ounces of the
kernels of pumpkin seeds be thoroughly ground
up with sugar to a fine pulp, and sufficient mint
water added to make an emulsion of twelve fluid
ounces. This was taken in the morning, between
Six and seven, in divided doses, upon an empty
stomach. At 9 A. M., two tablespoonfuls of
castor oil were given, and at II A. M. the usur-
per rapidly beat a retreat before the advancing
0e, and twenty-one feet, head and shoulders,
were carefully bottled up; since which time the
boy has rapidly gained in health and spirits.—2.
Dr. Lurtel has tried with success the following
method: He gives in one dose two-thirds of an
ounce of ether, followed two hours afterwards by
an ounce of castor-oil. The worm is discharged
entire or almost so, and always with the head
intact. N 0 pain is caused by this treatment.

 

239

T EE T HIZVG. — Young children whilst cut-
ting their first set of teeth often suffer severe con-
stitutional disturbance. At first there is restless-
ness and peevishness, with slight fever, but not
unfrequently these are followed by convulsive
fits, as the are commonly called, which depend
on the brain becoming irritated; and sometimes
under this condition the child is either cut off
su’ddenly, or the foundation of serious mischief
to the brain is laid. The remedy, or rather the
safeguard, against these frightful consequences
is trifling, safe, and almost certain, and consists
merely in lancing the gum covering the tooth
which is making its way through. When teeth-
ing is about it may be known by the spittle con-
stantly drivelling from the mouth and wetting
the frock. The child has its fingers often in its
mouth, and bites hard any substance it can get
hold of. If the gums be carefully looked at, the
part where the tooth is pressing up is swollen
and redder than usual; and if the finger be pres-
sed on it the child shrinks and cries showing that
the gum is tender. When these symptoms occur,
the gum should be lanced, and sometimes the
tooth comes through the next day, if near the
surface; but if not so far advanced the cut heals
and a scar forms, which is thought by some ob-
jectionable, as rendering the passage of the tooth
more difficult. This, however, is untrue, for the
scar will give way much more easily than the
uncut gum. If the tooth does not come through
after two or three days, the lancing may be re-
peated ; and this is more especially needed if the
child be very fractious, and seem in much pain.
Lancing the gums is further advantageous, be-
cause it empties the inflamed part of its blood,
and so relieves the pain and inflammation. The
relief children experience in the course of two or
three hours from the operation is often very
remarkable, as they almost immediately become
lively and cheerful.

T E T T ER.—After a slight feverish attack,
lasting two or three days, clusters of small,
transparent pimples, filled sometimes with a.
colorless, sometimes with a brownish lym h, ap-
pear on the cheeks or forehead, or on t e ex-
tremities, and at times on the body. The pimples
are about the size of a pea, and break after a few
days, when a brown or yellow crust is formed.
over them, which falls off about the tenth day,
leaving the skin red and irritable. The eruption
is attended with heat, itching,.tingling, fever and
restlessness, especially at night. Ringworm is a
curious form of tetter, in which the inflamed
patches assume the form of a ring—Treatment
should consist of light diet, and gentle laxatives.
If the patient be advanced in life, and feeble, a
tonic will be desirable. For a wash, white
vitriol, one dram ; rose-water, three ounces,
mixed; or an ointment made of elder-flower oint-
ment, one ounce; oxide of zinc, one dram.

TETTER, HUMID. —This is an eruption
of minute, round imples, about the size of a
pin’s head, filled With colorless fluid, and term-
inating in scurf. It is preceded by languor,
faintness, perspiration, and a pricking of the
skin. Another species of this disease is called
sun-heat, which is an eruption of a white or
brownish color, which generally terminates in
yellow scabs. It occurs only in summer, and
affects those parts which are uncovered. In still
another specres, the eruption is attended with
pain, heat, itching, intense smarting, and aswell-

24o

DICTIONARY 0F EVER Y—DA Y WANTS.

 

ing of the affected part. When the blisters break,
the water runs out, irritates and inflames the
skin, which becomes red, rough, and thickened—
covered sometimes with a thick crust. T reat-
ment—Low diet, cooling drinks, gentle purga-
tives, and warm baths. In old chronic cases,
apply externally either lime-water, or corrosive
su limate in a wash proportioned of five grains
to one pint of soft water. In the last two forms
of the affection apply nitrate of silver in solution,
to the parts.

TETTER, CRUSTED. ——- This eruption
consists at first of slightly elevated pustules or
pimples, closely congregated, with an inflamed

or er. These break, and the surface becomes
red, excoriated, shining, and full of pores,
through which a thin, unhealthy fluid is poured
out, which gradually hardens into dark, yellow-
ish-green scabs. When this tetter invades the
head or scalp, it causes the hair to fall off, and is
termed a scall.—-Treatment—Vapor-bath and
water-dressing. The crusts should be removed
by a weak lye, made from hard-wood ashes or
potash; then an ointment should be applied, made
of mild nitrate of mercury ointment, three
drachms; sugar of lead, sixteen grains ; rose-
water ointment, one ounce.

THROA T, (SORE), Remtdzl’: fora—1. In
man cases of slight soreness of the throat, it is
not eemed necessary to apply to a physician for
a rescription. In such cases a gargle composed
o hydrochloric acid, two drains; water, six
drams; and decoction of Peruvian bark, four
ounces.——2. Pour a int of boiling water upon
twenty-five or thirty eaves of common sage ; let
the infusion stand for half an hour. Add vinegar
sufiicient to make it moderately acid, and honey,
according to the taste. This combination of the
astringent and the emolient principle seldom fails
to produce the desired effect. The infusion must
be used as a gargle several times a-day. It has
this advantage over many gargles—it is pleasant
to the taste, and may be swgfllowed occasionally,
not only without danger, but with advantage—~—
3. Dissolve a teaspoonful of chlorate of potash in
a tumbler of water and gargle with it. It is
nearly tasteless, and not at all offensive to take,
and well adapted to children.—4. Make a poul-
tice of wormwood, boiled in sweet milk, and
apply it to the throat.

TIC-001.0165 UX, To C man—Take half a
pint of rose-water, add two teaspoonfuls of white
vinegar, to form a lotion. Apply it to the part
affected three or four times a day. It requires
fresh linen and lotion each a plication; this will,
in two or three days, gra ually take the pain
away. See also “Neuralgia”.

TOE-NAILS, IN-GROH’ING.—This most
painful of the diseases of the nails is caused by
the improper manner of cutting the nail (gener-
ally of the great toe), and then wearing a narrow,
badly-made shoe. The nail beginning to grow
too long, and rather wide at the corners, is often
trimmed around the corner, which gives tempo-
rary relief. But it then begins to grow wider in
the side where it was cut off; and, as the shoe
presses the flesh against the corner, the nail cuts
more and more into the raw flesh, which becomes
excessively tender and irritable. If this state
continue long, the toe becomes more and more
painful and ulcerated, and fungus (proud flesh)
sprouts up from the sorest points. »Walking
greatly increases the suffering, till positive rest

 

becomes indispensable.—Treatment.~—We omit
all modes of cutting out the nail by the root, and
all other cutting or torturing operations. Begin
the effort at cure by simple ap lication to the
tender part of a small quantity ofpperchloride 01
iron. It is found in drug stores in a fluid form,
though sometimes in powder. There is im-
mediately a moderate sensation of pain, constric-
tion, or burning. In afew minutes the tender
surface is felt to be dried up, tanned, or mum~
mified, and it ceases to be painful. The patient,
who before could not put his foot to the floor,
now finds that he can walk upon it without pain.
By permitting the hardened, wood-like flesh to
remain for two or three weeks, it can be easily
removed by soaking the foot in warm water. A
new and healthy structure is found, firm and
solid, below. If thereaiter the nails be no more
cut around the corners or sides, but always curv-
ed in across the trout end, they will in future
grow only straight forwards ; and by wearing a
shoe of reasonably good size and shape, all
further trouble Wlll be avoided.

Another method is with a knife, or a iece of
glass, scrape the centre of the nail unti it be-
comes almost as thin as the thinnest paper; then
cut the nail in the form of a cresent, the convex
side being inward. This will compel the sides
of the nail to grow outward in the natural wa .

T 007‘ 11/1 CHE,Remedz’esfor.—I. One drac m
of alum reduced to an impalpable powder, three
drachms of nitrous spirit of ether, mix, and apply
them to the tooth on cotton.—2. Mix a little salt
and alum, equal portions, grind it fine, wet a
little lock of cotton, fill it with the powder and
put it in your tooth. One or two applications
seldom fail to cure.—3. To one drachm of collo~
dion add two drachms of Calvert’s carbolic acid.
A gelatinous mass is precipitated, a small portion
of which, inserted in the cavity of an aching
tooth, invariably gives immediate relief—4. Sa-
tiirate a small bit of clean cotton wool with a
strong solution of ammonia, and applying it im-
mediately to the affected tooth. The pleasing
contrast instantaneously produced in some cases
causes a fit of laughter, although a moment pre-
vious extreme suffering and anguish prevaile .—
5. Sometimes a sound tooth aches from sympa-
thy of the nerves of the face with other nerves.
But when tooth-ache proceeds from a decayed
tooth either have it taken out, or put hot fomen-
tations upon the face, and hot drinks into the
mouth, such as tincture of cayenne.

T R] CHINA .-—Trichina is the term applied
to a minute animal (parasite) known for some
time to have existed in the muscles of man, and
which could be bred in the muscles of some other
mammals by feeding them with it. More recently
it has been discovered to occur naturally in the
muscles of swine. It is a minute, slender, and
trans arent worm, scarcely I-2oth of an inch in
lengt . After this animal becomes introduced
into the stomach of man, or other animals sus-
ceptible to its ravages, and which may feed upon
flesh infected with it, the worms become freed
from their capsules by the action of the digestive
fluid, and range freely in the stomach and intes.
tines of the custodian. Their developmentpro-
ceeds rapidly, and rocreation takes place Within
4 or 5 days; each emale gives birth to from 60
to 100 young, and dies soon after. The young
thread-like worm remains for a short time Within
the lining membrane of the intestines, causing

e

MEDICAL AND SURGICAL.

241

 

irritation, diarrhoea, and sometimes death if pre-
sent in suflicient numbers. After attaining a

roper size and strength, these young trichmae
begin to penetrate the walls of the intestines, and
make their way toward their proper homes, the
voluntary muscles. In traversing the muscles
they do not seem to penetrate the fibre of the
muscle, but to wind their way between them.
At this time they cause to those afflicted great
muscular pain and soreness, cramps, and even
tetanic symptoms. After about 4 weeks migra-
tion they commence to encyst themselves 1n the
muscular fibre, none having ever been found
encysted in fat or the other tissues. They per-
forate the walls of the fibre selected as their
abode, pass into it, and fasten themselves in the
space so made. The worm then secretes a deli-
cate membranous sac, which finally becomes cal-
careous by still further secretions. It is only in
man, however, that these calcareous cysts have
been observed, hogs being usually killed long be-
fore time has elapsed for the accumulation of suf-
ficient lime. The young trichina having now
reached its torpid stage, it will so remain during
the lifetime of its custodian. It feeds no longer,
but goes on slowly in development until it has
reached the condition of puberty, and then awaits
its chances of freedom to “commence its cycle.”
They can breed but once in the body of one and
the same animal.

There is no cure when once they find a lodge-
ment in the human body, so that prevention is a
necessity to all who would avoid dying by
trichina. And prevention is only secured by not
eating pork. Hog’s are the scavengers of all
creation, fit only “to cast out devils in” and no
man or woman, of fine tastes, unless they are on
the verge of starvation will eat pork. Whatever
may be your religion, be aJew in your regard
for pork, and trichina, scrofula and other foul
humors will never come near you.

URINE, Suppress-ton of—In this disease there
is urine in the bladder, but it is retained from
some inability to pass it. There are several
causes of suppression, and the treatment must
vary accordingly. If inflammation of the neck of
the bladder has caused it, warm fomentations
should be applied, and warm hipbaths. Three
or four drops of Croton oil may be rubbed on,
to bring out an eruption. Cooling diuretics, as
infusions of marshmallow, buchu, or pumpkin-
seeds, should be used.

URINE, Izméilz'ty to lwlai—This is quite com-
mon among children, but is not common in adult
life except among the old. It is caused by irrita-
tion of the roots of the s inal nerves which go to
the bladder, mechanicai3 injuries of the bladder,
palsy of the bladder, debility of the neck of the

ladder, general weakness of the nervous system,
worms in the bowels, whites, and gravel.—
Treatment—Pains should be taken to create a
healthy action of the skin by bathing and rub-
bing, and, if in children, not much drink should
be'allowed them. When it proceeds from de-
bility, the compound infusion of the trailing
arbutus, and a custard made of isinglass, may be
used freely. Sometimes cold water douched upon
the black, or a stimulating plaster, will do good
when the disease is from weak nerves.

VOMITING.——Where vomiting is not a part
of some particular disease and treated along with
it, or where it persists very obstinately, it may
require the sixth or quarter of a grain of morphia

 

to check it. But generally some aromatic, as
ginger, Spearmint, peppermint, or spice-tea will
put an end to it. A cordial or stimulant, as
brandy, champagne, tincture of ginger, paregoric;
or strong coffee without milk or sugar, will an-
swer as well. If caused by irritability of the
stomach, a pill of extract of belladonna and
ipecac, will answer to quiet the disturbance. The
patient should lie still in bed, and in bad cases a
mustard-poultice on the stomach may be needed.
The vomiting of children may be quieted by wet-
tinga cloth in laudanum, and laying it on the
stomach.

In cases of sea-sickness, the patient should lie
upon deck, in the open air if possible. A wine-
glass of brandy, or from ten to forty drops of
laudanum, will relieve the sickness very much.
Ten drops of hartshorn, in a half-tumbler of
water, is very good. But the best-known remedy
is chloroform, taken in doses of from forty to
eighty drops, suspended in water by means of a:
little gum-arabic.

WA 77516 BRASH—This consists in a dis»
charge from the stomach, generally in the morn—
ing, of athin, glairy fluid, sometimes insipid-,,
often sweetish, and at other times, sour. A.
burning heat or pain of the stomach attends it,
and seems to cause the discharge. The amount:
thrown up varies from a spoonful to apint or
more. The complaint is caused by a poor, in-
nutritious diet, or by whatever causes the blood
to- become thin and watery.—— Trmtmmt.—Ten
or fifteen drops of ammonia-water, in half a
tumblerful of cold water, will quiet the distress,
and stop the discharge. The best remedy for
this discharge, is the trisnitrate of bismuth, taken
at meal times, three times a day,’ in thirty-grain
doses. The tincture of nux vomica is good. The
blood should be restored by tonics of some pre-
paration of iron, and the food should be nourish-
ing and digestible.

WARTS, To Curz.-—-V’Varts are formed by-
the small arteries, veins, and nerves united to-.
gether, taking on a disposition to grow by extend-
ing themselves upward, carrying the scarf-skim
along with them, which thickening forms a wart.
Corns are a similar growth, brought about by-
the friction of tight boots and shoes—r. Take a'
piece of diachylon plaster, cut a hole in the centre-
the size of the wart, and stick it on, the wart
protruding through. Then touch it daily with
aquafortis, or nitrate of silver. They may be-
removed by tying a string tightly around them-.—-
2. Take a blacksmith’s punch, heat it red hot‘
and burn the warts with the end of it. When the-
burn gets well the warts will be gone forever.—.
3. Scrape down enough dry cobwebs to- make a
ball large enough to a little more than-cover the-
wart and not touch the flesh around the same;
lay it on top of the wart, ignite it, and let it be»
until it is all burnt up. The wart will turn white,
and in a few days come out.—4. Pass a pin
through the wart; apply one end of the pin to
the flame of a lamp; hold it there until the wart
fries under the action of the heat. A wart so
treated will leave.—5. Dissolve as much common.
washing soda as the water will take up; wash.

'the warts with this for a minute or two, and let

them dry without wiping. Keep the water ina

bottle and‘ repeat the washing often, and it will

take away the largest warts-6. They ma be

cured surely bytparing- them down until the b ood

wages slightly and then rubbing them with lunar
I

c

242 D] C T I ONA R Y 0)“ E VER Y—DA Y WANTS.

caustic. It is needless to say this hurts a little,
but is a sure cure. The hydrochlorate of lime
applied in the same way will cure after several
applications and some patience; so will strong
wood vinegar, and so it is said will milk weed.
The cures founded upon superstitious practices
such as muttering some phrases over the excres-
cence, stealing a piece of beef, rubbing the wart
therewith and then burying it under the leaves
to await its decay, etc., etc., are all the remnants
of a past state of ignorance and are of no use
whatever. Warts are generally only temporary

and disappear as their possessors grow up.

WEIVS, T a Cure. —— Dissolve copperas in
water to make it very strong; now take apin,
needle, or sharp knife, and prick, or cut the wen
in about a dozen places, just sufficient to cause it
to bleed; then wet it thoroughly with the cop-
peras water, once daily.

WHI T LOIV— There are very few affections
that commence so simply but afterwards become
so painful and seriousin their results as whitlow.
It is most frequently found in people in a low
state of health, and in nervous and delicate fe-
males. The commencement of an attack is gene-
rally marked by pain and redness in the finger,
or palm of the hand, as the case may be. The
pain, slight at first, becomes gradually more in-
tense and throbbing, and entirely prevents sleep.
The patient suffers from loss of appetite, and falls
into an irritable state from the constant pain and
want of sleep, and in some severe cases, unless
relief is obtained, delirium may come on. Whit-
low is somtimes found as a consequence of cer-
tain constitutional diseases, and may also be
caused by wounds from a thorn, a splinter of
wood, a rusty nail, or the sting ofa fish. The
latter is a common cause amongstfishermen. For
a cure see “Felon”.

WORfl/S.——In grown persons the symptoms
of worms are quite obscure, except an intolerable
itching within the anus, which generallyindicates
pin-worms, which live in the rectum. In chil-
dren, worms, are indicated by paleness, itching
of the nose, grinding of the teeth, and starting
in sleep; irregular appetite, bad breath, swelled
upper lip, picking of the nose, and hard, swelled
belly, and one cheek constantly flushed. — I.
Spirits of turpentine, half an ounce; oil of anise,
half an ounce; castor oil; one ounce; wormseed
oil, one ounce. Mix. The dose is, for a child
of one or two years, ten to twenty drops, every
two or three hours. In three days a brisk phy-
sic should be given.—2.Carolina pink-root, sen-
na leaf, manna, and American worm-seed, of
each % ounce; bruise and pour on boiling water
1 t.; and steep without boiling. Sweeten well,
a (1 half as much milk. Dose—A child of five
years, may take I gill 3 times daily, before meals,
~ 1' sufficient to move the bowels rather freely.—

 

3. Steepl or‘ boil in a pewter vessel, over a mo-
derate re, very strong, the bark ‘of spotted alder
or Witch-hazel. For a year old, a tablespoonful;
increase the dose according to age. Give four
or five times a day, for several days. It is sure
and safe. Or fine owdered sage, mixed with
honey; a teaspoon ul for a dose. Sweetened
milk, with the addition of a little alum, will turn
the worms. Flour and sulphur, mixed with honey,
is very good. Heat ver hot, in a smith’s fur‘
nace, a piece of steel ; lay on it a roll of brim-
stone, melt the steel, let it fall into water, and it
will be in round lumps. Pound them very fine,
mix the dust with molasses. Give half a tea‘
spoonful night and morning, fasting. 0r, give
as much as wflllie on a Sixpence, of dried man-
drake roots, powdered and mixed with honey, in
the morning, three or four times successively.
If a child have fits, proceeding from worms, give
as much paregoric as it can bear; it will turn the
worms, and ease the child. To prevent worms,
let children eat onions, raw or cooked. Raw
are the best. Salt and water will turn worms,
and a dose or two of flour and sulphur after,
will bring them away, without any other medicine.

W OUNDS, Treatment 5y Ventilatiou.—This
consists, in fact, of leaving small wounds exposed
to the air, and in acting on large ones by means
of the domestic bellows for a period varying from
five to twenty minutes, every two, three or four
hours, according to the discharge and moisture
that may be present. The object is to secure
the formation of a crust over the surface of the
wounds under which healing takes place far more
rapidly than when the surface is not so protected;
and hence the application of the air must be suf-
ficiently frequent and prolonged to keep up this
crust of a certain thickness. When the crust is
hard, however, it must be displaced and another
formed, and when the discharge is very abund-
ant, the alcoholic dressings, now so much in
vogue, in the Paris hospitals, should, for a while,
precede the ventilation. The influence of this
last in improving the condition of the wound is
almost immediate, a disposition to cicatrize and
a diminution of the discharge soon being apparent.
In burns of the second and third degree, which
assume the appearance of a simple denuded
wound, ventilation may advantageously supersede
cotton and other impermeable applications. This
treatment is not suited to deep or penetrating
wounds. Among the secondary advantages of
the treatment by ventilation, originating with M.
Boisson, may be mentioned its simplicity, its
easy applicability by the patient or his friends,
its economy and its cleanliness. It substitutes a
dry for a moist surface, diminishing the chance
of putrid decomposition and of in ection of the
surrounding atmosphere.

 

ORNAMENTAL WORK.

ANGLO-jAPANESE WORK—This is an
elegant and easy domestic art. Take yellow,
withered leaves, dissolve gum, get mixed black
paint and some copal varnish, etc. Any articles

may be ornamented with these simple materials
—an old work-box, tea caddy, fire Screen, flower
pots, etc. Select perfect leaves, dry and press
them between the leaves of books, rub the sure

ORNA MEN TA L W ORK

face of the article to be ornamented with fine
sand pa er; then give it a coat _of fine black
paint, which should be procured mixed at a color
shop. When dry, rub smooth w1th pumice
stone; then apply two other coats. Dry; ar-
range leaves in any order, according to taste.
Gum the leaves on the under side, and press
them upon their places. Then dissolve some
isinglass in hot water, and brush it over the work
while the solution is warm; when dry, give three
coats of copal varnish, allowing ample time for
each coat to dry. Articles thus ornamented last
for years, and are very pleasing.

ANTIQUE PAINTING—Apply with a
stifi‘ brush a very thin coat of Antique varnish,
which will be thoroughly dry in syt hours; then
apply another coat of the same, thin and very
equal and smooth; allow this to dry one hour or
until nearly dry, strongly adhering to the finger
when touched, but not sticky. Then put on the
engraving, (having dampened it thoroughly with
warm water, not too wet, absorbing the extra
moisture with a cloth or blotter,) with the face
to the varnished side of the glass; press it gently
until every part adheres to the surface, rub care-
fully with your finger a part of the figure, being
sure not to rub through the engraving; after it
has dried twelve hours, wet again and rub off all
the paper leaving only the engraving; when
again dry moisten carefully with fine bleached
drying oil. It is then fit for painting. The
colors will strike through very freely, as there is
no paper left, and will not spot as the Grecian is
liable to do. Do not use any Turpentine in this
style. The Directions are the same as for Gre-
cian Painting, except more pains should be taken
to shade and blend in the colors, to help the
shading in'the engraving, particularly the flesh-
color with the hair.

BOTANICAL SPECIMENS, To Dry for
Preservatian.—The plants you wish to preserve
should be gathered when the weather is dry;
and after placing the ends in water, let them
remain in a cool place till the next day. When
about to be submitted to the process of drying,
place each plant between several sheets of blot-
ting paper, and iron it with a large smooth heater
pretty strongly warmed, till all the moisture is
dissipated. Colors may thus be fixed which
otherwise become pale or nearly white.

Some plants require more moderate heat than
others, and herein consists the nicety of the ex-
periment; but I have generally found, that if the
iron be not too hot, and is passed rapidly, yet
carefully, over the surface of the blotting paper,
rt-answers the purpose equally well with plants
of almost every variety of hue and thickness. In
compound flowers, with those also of a stubborn
and solid form, some little care and skill are re-
quired in cutting away the under part, by which
means the profile and forms of the flowers will
be more distinctly exhibited. This is especially
necessary when the method employd by Major
Velley is adopted, viz., to fix the flowers and
fru1t_down securely with gum upon the paper,
prevrous to ironing, by which means they be-
come almost incorporated with the surface.
When this very delicate rocess is attempted,
blotting paper should be aid under every part
excepting the blossoms, in order to prevent
staining the white paper. Great care must be
taken to kee preserved specimens in a dry place,
and also to ndle them gently;‘and thus they

 

243

can be kept a long time, affording a source of
great pleasure.

BO UQ UE T S qf Colored Gram—The grasses
should be gathered while the seeds are green, so
that after having been hung in a dry, dark place
a week or two, or until thorougly dried, the seed
will not rattle off when shaken. The finer seeded
the grasses the handsomer the bouquets; and yet
sprigs of green oats work up tastily.

The ingredients required are simple and cheap,
viz.: Common starch and dry chrome paints of as
many colors as you wish; an ounce of each is
sufficient for makin a good sized bouquet. Dis-
solve in cold water t ree tablespoonfuls of starch; ‘
then pour on boiling water until cooked; let
cool; arrange upon the table your paints, grasses
and starch. Into the starch dip the sprays re-
quired for the several colors, shake, and then
brush into the paint of whatever color you wish;
shake again and lay them one side upon a board
or convenient place to let remain undisturbed
until dry. Serve the sprays for each different
color in the same way. When dry, lightly shake
ofi‘ the the surplus paint, if any, and then form
into bouquets. These, particularly when used in
connection with crystalized grasses and put into
a nicely made wall-basket, of shield form, and
hung upon the wall, or even into a vase, are well
worth the “care and trouble” of making. .

CONE WORK—Select good clear cones, and
dissect some which have handsome, large scales,
and brush them clean; lay nice white putty, or
a similar adhesive substance, smoothly on your
frame; set into this putty whole cones, large and
small, in such figures as suit your taste, and fill
up the entire groundwork with the scales, lapping
one neatly over the other.

Cut oval and round frames for light pictures,
from bookbinder’s pasteboard, and cover with
the scales in layers or rows. Scallop the edges
with small whole cones, set in large cones sur-
rounded by little ones equidistant, if the frame
be broad, and fill in with the scales. When dry,
take out those which are not firm, and replace.
Add acorns ad libitum. Varnish the whole once
or twice. If you wish something nice, go over
every part with a fine brush, and leave no var-
nish standing in drops.

Cones can be found by almost any one in an
hour’s walk through pine woods. Indeed, if one
has a taste for the beautiful, and is quick in per-
ception, it is impossible to ramble through
wood and fields without finding many curiosities
in the shape of mosses, grasses, cones, etc.

F UNG], T o [Myrna—Take two ounces of
sulphate of copper, or blue vitriol, and reduce it
to powder, and pour upon it a pint of boiling
water, and when cold, add half a pint of s irits
of wine; cork it well, and call it “the pic 1e.”
To eight pints of water add one pint and a half
of spirits of wine, and call it “the liquor.” Be
provided with a number of wide-mouthed bottles
of different sizes, all well fitted with corks. The
fungi should be left on the table as long as pos-
sible, to allow the moisture to eva orate; they
should then be placed in the pic le for three
hours, or longer, if necessar ; then place them
in the bottles intended for t eir reception, and
fill with the liquor. They should then be well
corked and sealed, and arranged in order with
their names in front of the bottles.

DECALCOMANIA —-Or the Art of Orna-
menting China, Glass, Earthenware, Wooden.

24-4

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

ware, Fancy Boxes, Ivory, and Paper Mache
Goods, Japannedware, Binding of Books, Fans,
Leather Work, etc., etc.—-Directiam.—Cover
the picture entirely (taking care not to go beyond
the outlines) with a slight coat of fixing varnish;
then put the picture on the object to be orna-
mented, being careful to place it properly at once,
in order not to spoil it by moving. The varnish
newly applied being too liquid, the picture should
be left to dry eight or ten minutes, and placed on
the object to be ornamented, when just damp
enough to be still adherent: this done, cover the
back of the picture with a piece of cloth stee ed
in water, then, by means of a knife or pen—hol er,
rub it all over, so as to fix every part of it; then
remove the piece of cloth and rinse the paper
with a paint-brush steeped in water; at the end
of a few minutes the paper will come off, leaving
the painting transferred.

Care must be taken that the piece of cloth,
without being too wet, should be sufficiently so
for the paper to be entirely saturated. The pic-
ture must now be washed with a wet paint—brush,
and dried very lightly with some blotting aper.
The ornamented article should, after this, lie put
near the stove or any other warm place, to make
it dry well and to improve the adhesiveness of
the pictures. The polishing varnish should not,
be applied until the next day, keeping the pictures
in the meantime carefully out of the dust. The
latter varnish should be put on as lightly as
possible.

If dark-colored objects are to be ornamented,
such as bindings of books, Russian leather, leather
bags, etc., the picture must first be covered with
a mixture of white lead and turpentine, following
the outlines of the design and covering it entirely.
When this coat is perfectly dry, proceed accord-
ing to the above instructions.

To print on silk, paper, or materials that can-
not bear washing after the process, proceed as
follows: Cover the picture entirely with a light
coat of fixing varnish and let it dry for an hour
or two; then pass a sponge, lightly damped, over
the whole surface of the paper, in order to take
away the composition which is on it in the blank
parts, and which often cleans the material.

When the paper is dry, re-varnish the picture,
and transfer it on to the material by means of a
paper cutter, avoiding to employ the piece of
cloth or anything damp; then, with a paint-brush
slightly steeped in water, wet the paper lightly,
and leave it a full quarter of an hour on the ob-
ject before removing it.

To remove a Spoiled print, rub it with a soft
rag imbibed in turpentine.

Our readers will at once appreciate the merits
of this invention; the facility with which it can
be applied, also its numerous applications.

DIAPHANIE.—This is a process by means
of which colored designs may be transferred
from the paper on which they are ori inally
printed, for the decoration in colors 0 glass
which is intended to admit light. It is, in fact,
a method of glass-staining which costs only a
fraction of the expense of the ancient process,
produces quite as bold and brilliant effects, is
sufficiently durable for all ordinary purposes, and
can be practised by amateurs of either sex at their
own homes. That diaphanie fully answers the
purpose for which it is mainly intended —— the
staining of glass—is abundantly proved by the
fact that many church windows are colored, by

 

means of it, and that they are esteemed quite as
telling and beautiful specimens of decoration as
those that owe their origin to the old and expen-
sive art. For ordinary purposes the process
may be described in a few words. In the first
place, designs must be obtained, and these can
be got in every variety, and suitable for any size
of window or pane. First wet the back, or the
uncolored side, with a sponge and cold water,
and apply a coating of prepared transferring var-
nish to the colored surface with awide camel-
hair brush. Then at once apply the cemented
side to the glass in the proper position, and press
down with a roller. To insure success, two or
three sheets of paper should be laid upon the
back of the design before the using of the roller
is commenced {then begin rolling from the centre
outward to the circumference. The work is
now to be left until the varnish has become er-
fectly dry, which it will do in two days. IThe
design has by this time become printed upon the
glass, and the next step is to remove the paper
from which the design has been transferred.
This is done by wetting and gently rubbing with
a cloth or sponge. When the paper has been
wholly removed, a thin coating of ‘ ‘clearing liquid”
is applied to the design, and when this has be-
come perfectly dry, one or two coatings of the
“washable varnish” are laid on, and the work is
finished.

N 0 special knowledge of art is required for the
practise of diaphanie. The work is especially
suitable for hall and lobby doors and windows,
for school and church windows, staircase, study,
and other windows in houses where it may be
desirable to shut out the prospect of a smoke-
dried back yard, or a range of mews. The spe-
cial advantage of diaphanie is that while impart-
ing a graceful and artistic character wherever
used, it does not exclude the light, and it renders
blinds unnecessary.

It should be specially kept in view that the
designs must be transferred before the glass is
fitted to the window, and that the colored side
is kept inwards. The glass may be cleaned in
the usual manner, if ordinary care be taken, as
the coatings of “washable varnish” are quite a
sufficient protection to the picture.

GAS-LIGHT PICTURES. — Cut all the
white paper» close up to the engraving, and place
the engraving on the glass, like the Antique
Painting, then- paint a wreath around the engra-
ving, on the glass, oval shape or round. Make
a back-ground by painting the back board with
white paint, and before- it dries take white or
blue frosting, a pinch at. a. time, with the fingers
and scatter thickly all over the painted board.
When the board is dry, shake off what frosting
there is that does not adhere, and save it for the
next time. A suflicient quantity will adhere to
present the appearance 0 myriads of diamonds,
and is very effective, especially by gas-light. In
putting the back board on the picture in this
style, put paste-board strips or thin wood be-
tween the glass and the back to keep the glass
from mashing down the frosting.

GRA SSES, To C :talize.—-Pulverize a pound
of the best white all/1m, and dissolve it over a
slow fire in a quart of pure, soft water. Do not
let it boil, and be careful to keep everything out
of the solution that would possibly stain it, for
the beauty of the grasses depends 0n the pure
whiteness of the crystals. A new earthen bowl

ORNA [MEN T A L W ORK

is the best dish for the purpose; when the alum
is dissolved, let the solution cool down to blood
heat; meanwhile arrange your grasses in the
bowl and pour the solution over them; cover up
and set away for twenty-four hours. Then take
them out carefully, dry them in the sun four or
five hours, and put them in the vase prepared
for them.

If you form the grasses, etc., into abouquet
before crystalizing them, procure a glazed earthen
jar, suspend the bouquet from a stick laid across
the top of the jar, take care that the tops of the
grasses are not bent or doubled over, and then
pour on the solution, proceeding as above direct-
ed. What remains of the alum water may be
reheated, tinged blue, or purple, or scarlet, by a
few drops of dye, and used as before.

Of course the same preparation is suitable for
all kinds of plants.

GRECIAN PAIN TlNG.—Procure a light
pine frame, a trifle larger than the Engraving:
(this need not be of the nicest workmanship;
simply 4 pieces of wood nailed together, to act
as a support to the picture while painting) then
moisten your Engraving with water, and while
wet, paste it to the frame, dry slowly, not over a
fire, and it will become quite smooth and tight;
now, moisten again on the wrong side with pure
Spirits of Turpentine, and while wet, with a coat
0_ Grecian Varnish on the same side, which con-
tinue to apply (keeping damp only, not too wet,
or it will lter'through in spots,) until it is wholly
transparent and without spots. If it is found
difficult to remove the spots, apply the second
coat of Spirits and afterwards the Grecian Var-
nish. When ready to paint, the back will have
an even gloss all over it. When perfectly clear
it should remain two or three days before paint-
ing, which is done on the side that you have var-
nished, the shading of the Engraving serving the
same purpose in painting; this process is so
Simple that a child able to read this can under-
stand it. Varnish the picture but once, on the
face after it is framed, (not before,) with outside
varnish; this must be put on evenly, and with
care that it does not run; have but little in the
brush at a time.

LEAF IN COPPER, T a make a Fat-Sz’milz'e
ofl—This beautiful experiment can be performed
by any person in possession of a common galvanic
battery. The process is as follows z—Soften a
piece of gutta-percha over a candle, or before a
fire; knead it with the moist fingers upon a table,
until the surface is large enough to cover the leaf
to be copied; lay the leaf flat upon the surface,
and press every part well into the gum. In
about five minutes the leaf may be removed,
when, if the operation has been carefully per-
formed a perfect impression of the leaf will be
made on the gutta-percha. This must now be
attached to the wire 'in connection with the zinc
end of the battery (which can easily be done by
heating the end of the wire, and pressing it into
the gutta-percha), dusted well over with the best
black lead, with a camel’s hair brush—~the object
of whlch Is to render it a conductor of electricity,
and then completely immersed in a saturated
solution of sulphate of copper. A piece of copper
attached to the wire in connection with the cop-
per end of the battery, must also be inserted into
the copper solution, facing the gutta-percha, but
net touching it; this not only acts as a conductor
to the electricity, but also maintains the solution

 

”243

of copper of a permanent strength. In a short
time the copper will be found to creep over the
whole surface of the gutta—percha, and in about
twenty-four hours, a thick deposit of copper will
be obtained, which may then be detached from
the mould. The accuracy with which a leaf may
thus be cast is truly surprising.

Casts taken in this way delineate every fiber
and nerve, in fact, the minutest arts, with the,
greatest fidelity.

LEA VES, PLANTS, ETC, To Take [m-
pravrz’on ty‘Z—Take half a sheet of fine wove paper
and oil it well with sweet oil; after it has stood
a minute or two, to let it soak through, rub off
the superfluous oil with a piece of paper, and let
it hang in the air to dry; after the oil is pretty
well dried in, take a lighted candle, and move
the paper over it, in a horizontal direction, so as
to touch the flame, till it is perfectly black.—
When you wish to take off impressions of plants,
lay your plant carefully on the oiled paper, lay a
piece of clean paper over it, and rub it with your
finger equally in all parts for half a minute ; then
take up your plant and be careful not to disturb
the order of the leaves, and place it on the paper
on which you wish to have the impression ; then
cover it With a piece of blotting paper, and rub
it with your finger for a short time, and you will
have an impression superior to the finest engrav-
ing. The same piece of black paper will serve
to take off a great number of impressions. The
principal excellence of this method is, that the
paper receives the impression of the most minute
veins and hairs, so that you obtain the general
character of most flowers. The impression may
afterwards be colored.

LEA VES, SKELE T OAK—Skeleton leaves
are among the most beautiful objects in nature,
and as they can be arranged either in groups un-
der glass shades, made into pictures, as it were,
and hung against the wall, or placed in either
blank-books or albums, they come within the
means of all, and can be used to decorate the
palace or the cottage. The most suitable leaves
for the purpose are those from what botanists
call exogenous plants, and may be known by the
veins of the leaf branching from a central
vein or midrib ; those from endogenous plants
rising from the base and curving towards the
apex of the leaf. The object in view is to de-
stroy what may be called the fleshy-part of the leaf,
as well as the skin, leaving only the ribs or veins.

The most successful, and probably the simplest,
way to do this is to macerate the leaves in rain-
water till they are decomposed. For this pur-
pose, when the leaves are collected they should
be placed in an earthen-ware pan or a wooden
tub, kept covered with rain-water, and allowed
to stand in the sun. In about a fortnight’s time
they should be examined, and if found pulpy and
decaying, will be ready for skeletomzing, for
which process some cards, a camel’sJiair brush,
as well as one rather stiff (a tooth-brush, for in-
stance), will be required. When all is prepared,
gently float a leaf on to a card, and with the soft
brush carefully remove the skin. Have ready a
basin of clean water, and when the skin of one
side is completely removed, reverse the card in
the water, and slip it under the leaf, so that the
other side is uppermost. Brush this to remove
the skin, when the fleshy part will most likely
come with it; but if not, it will readily wash out
in the basin of water.

246

If particles of the green-colored matter still ad-
hereto the skeleton, endeavor to remove them
with the soft brush; but if that is of no avail, the
hard one must be used. Great care will be ne~
cessary to avoid breaking the skeleton, and the
hard brush should only be used in a perpen-
dicular direction (a sort of gentle tapping), as
an horizontal motion or “brushing” action will
in allibly break the skeleton. Never attempt to
touch the leaves or the skeleton in this state with
the fingers, as when they are soft their own
, weight will often break them.

A very good way of bleaching the skeletons is
to pre are a solution of chloride of lime, which
must e allowed to settle, and the clear liquid

oured into a basin, in which the skeletons may

e ut by floating them off the card. It is as
well to have half a dozen ready to bleach at once,
as the require watching, and if allowed to re-
main in too long will fall to pieces. From two
to four hours will generally suffice to bleach the
skeleton of all ordinary leaves, after which they
should be washed in several changes of water,
and finally left in clean water for half an hour.

After the leaf has been sufficiently washed it
should be floated on to acard and dried as quickly
as possible, care being taken to arrange the skele-
ton perfectly flat, and as near as possible to the
natural shape. This can be done with the as-
sistance of the soft brush. When dry the skele-
ton should be perfectly white, and should be
mounted on dark backgrounds, as black velvet
or paper.

Well-grown leaves should always be chosen,
and be thoroughly examined for flaws before
maceration. Leaves containing much tannin
cannot be skeletonized by this process, but are
generally placed in a box with a number of cad-
dis worms, which eat away the fleshy parts, when
the skeletons can be bleached in the usual way.
Holly leaves must be placed in a sep ate vessel
on account of their spines, which won d be apt to
damage other leaves ; they make beautiful skele-
tons, and are sufficiently strong to be moved with
the fingers.

LEA T HER WORK—The materials re-
quired are the basil leather, thin skiver leather,
a bottle of oak varnish, liquid glue, stiffening,
small hammer, veining tool, brad awl, scissors,
sharp knife, cutting board, mold (or grapes for
large peas) brushes, black lead pencil and the
frame, bracket or whatever you wish to orna-
ment.

The leather used for general purposes is basil;
it should be of an even texture, close grain, free
from grease, hard, and of a light color as the
lighter colored takes the oak varnish stain better
than the dark. There is a faced basil very at-
tractive to the eye, but unserviceable for many
operations where firmness is required; it an-
swers well for rolling into stems when the work
is intended to be colored. Lamb skin and deer
skin may be used in some parts but in all cases,
avoid a soft, flabby kind of leather; the skiver
leather is used for making grapes, but old kid
gloves can take the place of this very well.

For making tlze haven—Select a leaf such as
ou wish to make; sketch it carefully on paste
oard and cut it out thin; placea piece of leather

in cold water for half a minute (not longer), un-
less the leather is unusually thick. Take it out of
the waver and press in a linen cloth until the
surface becomes dry. Place it flat upon asmooth

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS. -

 

board and place upon it your pasteboard pattern
and draw around it with a fine lead pencil, while
the leather is damp; cut out the leaf with a pair
of scrssors or knife. Small or large leaves may
be made in the same way. '

Vein the leaves with the veinin tool (using it
as a lead pencil in drawing upon t e smooth side
of the lea ; bear heavily where the strong inden-
tations are required and lightly where the finer
veins are wanted. Each leaf must now be bent
and molded to suit the position it is to occupy
when the work is done; they should now be
dried quickly and hardened ; this is done by ap-
plyinga coating of the prepared stiffening. Great
care should be taken to cover the edges; a rather
large camel’s hair pencil is the best to ap 1y it
with; the leaves will soon dry and be rea y for
the staining. Brush them over with the oak stain
varnish, thinly but evenly ; a child’s hair brush
is best for this. The stain must not be allowed
to lodge in the veined parts, or the veins will
appear too black. When the leaves are dry they
are ready for use, if they are not dark enough a
second application of the stain will be needed.

T a maize rz‘emr, eta—Cut strips of basil one-
third of an inch wide and as long as the leather
will allow, soak thoroughly in water; then roll
up, the smooth side out, as round as possible,
on a table or other smooth surface. Dry quickly
by the fire. It the stems are wanted very stiff
wire should be rolled inside the leather. A pret-
tier efi'ect is produced by cutting the stem and
leaf in one piece and made to look like a vine.

To make Tendn’lr.—Tendrils are made the
same as stems, using the skiver leather instead
of the basil. Take a piece of the prepared tendril
the length required forwinding; damp it slightly
and immediately wind it around the point of a
brad awl, taking care to secure both ends of the
tendril ; dry by the fire, and remove from the
awl, and a delicately formed tendril will be the
result. The stems and tendrils should be hard-
ened and stained in the same way as the leaves.

Flower: should be made in as few pieces as
possible. Roses, Dahlias, etc., can be fermed
very prettily ; the number of stamina should be
carefully observed and inserted in the middle of
the flower using wire for the stems.

For Grapes.——Large sized round peas are good;
for this cut from your skiver or old kid. rounds
of the right size ;- strain and tie closely over the
pea, winding tightly the loose ends of the kid to
form a stem; they should be stained and made
into clusters, it is necessary to observe in making
the clusters, that the tying should be entirely
concealed.

To make A corm.-—Procure some natural acorn
cups, choose such cups as are perfectly sound,
pierce two holes through the bottom of the cup,

ass a piece of fine wire through the holes, leav-
ing the two ends long enough to be twisted into
a stalk; if the stalk is to be ex osed it must be cov-
ered with skiver and made ast with glue. The
most correctly formed acorn tops are those turn-
ed in wood, which can be firmly placed in the
cup with the aid of glue.

To cover a frame.—Procure a wood frame the
size and form required, taking care to have it
made of well seasoned wood; size it all over With
patent size. Leave it for an hour to dry, then
apply a coating of oak varnish stain and when dry
it is ready for use. Commence the process 0
covering by attaching the stems With small tacks

 

ORNAMENT/1 L WORK 247

all around in a zig-zag direction. If the vine
attern frame is selected, cover the wood With
our or five gradations of foliage, well arranged
so as to preserve as nearly as posstble the na-
tural ap earance of the vine. l‘oo great a pro-
fusion ofP grapes should be avoided, one large
cluster in each corner, (if the frame is square) to
hang down over the glass, and give .1t the ap-
earance of a round frame in the msrde, IS very
andsome. '

MODELING IN CLAY. — As an in-
teresting, intellectual occupation for leisure hours,
modeling in clay has recently been looked upon,
especially by ladies, with growing favour. The
occupation is really a cleanly one, though at first
it might not be thought so. The clay employed
is fine white clay—the clay of which pipes are
made, —-and is readily removed by washing.
And though no sensible amateur would willingly
set up his modeling apparatus in a drawing-
room if he could obtain the use of a room less
expensively furnished, yet even here the work
may be carried on by an ordinarily careful person
without endangering carpet or furniture.

Of the noble art of sculpture, modeling is by
far the most important part—is the only part, in
fact, which exclusively employs the genius of the
sculptor himself; for the subsequent processes of
casting and carving in marble are carried out in
great part, if not entirely, by workmen and as-
sistants. The tools em loyed are chiefly those
with which nature has grnished us—the fingers
and thumbs; and, as cla can be purchased for a
mere trifle, the material required in modeling
will cost the amateur no more than a very few
shillings.

In carving we cut down our material to the de-
sired form; in modeling we build up our clay to
the required form. The process consists of lay-
ing on the clay and smoothing down until gra-
dually the model assumes the full proportions of
the object we desire to reproduce. Suppose,
then, we have to copy a vase in low relief, from
a plaster cast. We place the cast before us ; and
having provided a slate slab, we draw upon the
slab the outline of the cast with a slate pencil.
Preserving this drawing as the outline, we com-
mence to lay on the cla , modeling it as we pro~
ceed with the fingers. his process is continued
until the model projects from the slab precisely
as the vase does in the casts; and is, in fact, a
fac-simile of it. If the face have no ornamenta-
tion upon it—and the simplest possible copy
should be selected for afirst attempt in modeling
—this work may all be done with the fingers.
When there is ornamentation, the clay must be
laid on cautiously and worked into form by
means of the tools, which are usually made of
boxwood, with points resembling the extremities
of the fingers in shape. When the student has
had some little practice in manipulating the clay
and reproducing simple forms, he should attempt
to copy a simple mask—like that of Dante—in
which the surfaces are broad, the features large
and sharply defined, so that the whole of the work
may be done with the thumbs and fingers.
These masks or face may be obtained at a trifling
cost from any figure moulder.

M ONOCROMA T! C DRA WING.—— The
board, or material suitable for this drawing, can
be purchased at any artist store, either in tinted
or. lain colors. You need for this painting a
km e or eraser, crayons, fine sponge, pencils,

 

cork, rubber, piece of kid, and crayon holders.
Fold several pieces of kid and soft leather, and
use in shading the sharp-folded corners; also,
double some pieces over the ends of pointed and
rounded sticks ; the learner will find use for se-
veral kinds. Always commence painting with
the dark shades, and blend gradually into the
light. For very dark shades, rub the crayon di-
rectly upon the surface with a light hand, and
blend off carefully.

Paint the sky first, as in water colors. It is
well to shade distant mountains very light first,
and be sure to have the edges soft and faint.

For water, scrape some blackcrayon into pow-
der, and lay it on your board with the kid, work-
ing it horizontally, and making the light and
shades stronger as it comes nearer. Your sponge
may do good in rendering the water transparent.
Make sharp lights with the penknife. Ruins
overgrown with moss, and dilapidated buildings,
may make pretty pictures. We have seen moon-
light views, in this style of painting, more beau-
tiful than anything else.

Great care should be taken to do the foliage
well. Many a picture, which would otherwise
have been good, has been spoiled by a stiff, ugly
tree. By the delicate use of the round point of
a penknife, beautiful effects can be produced in
crayon shading. Figures, animals, etc., are put
in last. and a person knowing how to shade in
pencil will find no difficulty in this.

MOSS WORK—Collecting and arranging,
in various forms of grace and beauty, the delicate
and many-colored mosses with which our fields
and forests abound, has long been a favorite
pastime with all lovers of the beautiful in nature.
A fertile imagination and inventive mind will
readilyperceive the many objects for which moss
work is well adapted—Vases, neatly and taste-
fully covered with delicate mosses, arranged with
an eye to the harmony of colors, are very appro-
priate for holding dried grasses; crosses, little
towers, “ancient and moss-grown,” for watch
stands ; frames for holding collections of leaves,
grasses or flowers ; indeed, it is needless to par-
ticularize. Beautiful landscapes can be made,
closely resembling nature. .

Collect all the varieties of wood moss, beauti-
ful bits of bark and dried leaves within your
reach.—Make a design—perhaps of a landscape
—in which are ruins, rocks, etc. Paint a sky,
as in water colors; then glue thin bits of bar’k
and moss on the ruins; moss on rocks; dried
forest leaves on the distant mountains, and the
bright-colored and green mosses of various hues
on the foreground. Such a landscape is cal—
culated to draw out the ingenuity of the pupil,
and requires no little study, and when well done,
is a very pleasant picture. Set in a deep frame.

ORIENTAL PA IN TIN G.——-See “Theorem
Paintin ”.

PAPER FLOWERS—Occasionally we see
very handsome paper flowers ; but then they are
made by persons of taste with great care and
from the best of French tissue paper.

Dip alarge camel’s hair pencil in thin gum
arabic, and brush quickly over the whole surface
of the paper from which you intend to cut your
flower; this fills the pores of the paper, and
gives it a little stiffness.

Cut roses, japonicas, etc., from paper patterns;
then paint with water color. Form the petal
with your fingers and a pair of scissors. Cut a.

T4. .

wr?-:::z=. -W ._ - _

4%

   

 

248 DICTIONAR Y OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

fringe of yellow paper for stamens. Make your
leaves and calyx of green tissue paper, well sized
with gum. Cover fine well-annealed wire with
green paper for stalks, and fasten the parts of the
flower together with gum.

For a daisy, Chrysanthemum, or aster, double
the paper two or three times; cut down two
thirds; roll the uncut side firmly round and
round the bent end of a piece of wire suitable for
the stalk.

Buds, pericar 5, etc., are made either by stuff-
ing with a bit 0 cotton, or winding up paper.

Variegated pinks look well. Paint strips of
paper in plashes here and there, as you see on
the petal of the carnation—some very dark car-
mine, some merely light touches. Cut off suit-
able width for petals, and wind around a paper
center. Take natural flowers for models.

PEARL W ORX (Imitation), flrEmélw'dery.
—-VVe do not think that a preparation of fish
scales has ever been used in this country instead
of the so much admired pearl; and so we give it
to our readers, knowing that they will like some-
thing entirely new.

Take the shining scales from a carp, or any
other fish—the larger the scales, the better; put
them in strong salt water over night; lay them
on a linen cloth or smooth board; wipe them-
carefully on both sides, and lay them between
clean, strong paper, under a board, on which
place a weight; let them remain a day or two,
until the scales are pressed dry and become hard.
Draw something, say an ivy leaf, on strong draw-
ing paper ; cut it out, and lay it on each scale as a
pattern, by which to cut the scales with very fine
scissors. Such a pattern however, is superfluous to

ersons acquainted with drawing, who can cut
caves of that kind without one. Vein your scale
leaves with a fine steel needle ; do it slowly, bearing
on hard to give clearness; theleaves are now ready.

Stretch a rich, dark-colored silk velvet tightly
in an embroidery frame; place the pattern, which
you intend to copy, before you, and imitate it by
sewing the scale leaves, one at a time, on the
velvet, with fine gold thread, and the leaf stalks
and tendrils embroidered with the same. It is
well to draw the thread through water before
using it, to render it flexible.

The beautiful effect produced by this simple
process fully repays one for the trouble. That
manifold changes may be made according to the
taste and ingenuity of the copyist, is evident to
the reader.

P0 T CHIM ONL—Take plain glass jars or
vases, in any shape, and clean them thoroughly;
then obtain two or three sheets of figures, flowers,
or views, in imitation of Chinese, Egyptian, or
Swiss painting. These goods, as well as the
jars, can be obtained in any of the principal
cities. Now, in whatever style you determine to
ornament your vase or jar in, cut out the figures
from your sheet and secure them in different
parts inside the jar, with the figures looking out-
wards. The best material for making them ad-
here is to boil a piece of parchment; this makes
a good size. Having secured the prints, make a
varnish of balsam of fir and tur entine, and apply
all over inside with a fine brus . When the first
coat is dry, give another coat; now take any
color you choose—black, blue, green, yellow,
white, pink, brown or red—and grind the paint
fine with the best white varnish, and apply a coat
of this paint over the whole inside; let it dry,

 

and then repeat coat u on coat until the color is
sufficiently strong to s ow even and bright out.
side. Jars and vases may be decorated in end
less variety by this method. Some use cuttings
of prints, silks, etc.

SIIELL WORfii—This is very pretty for
vases, frames, boxes, etc. Many shell flowers,
animals, birds, and the like, are brought here
from the Mediterranean. We have seen some
that we would like to own; but in general the
have a stiff appearance. However, we will tell
you how they are made.

Assort your shells according to size and color
—the more rice and other small shells you have,
the better. Melt white wax and glue together,
two parts of the former and one of the latter.
Have a clear idea of what you intend to do; or,
what is better, make a pattern before you begin
to set your shells. If you will ornament a box,
a rose in the center looks well. Take thin round
shells, those most resembling rose leaves, of the
smaller size, and dipping the lower ends in the
hot wax mixture, set them close together for the
center of a rose; place other similar shaped shells
around in circles, the largest outward. Care must
be taken to form the shells into perfect circles,
and to take up wax enough to make them adhere
to the cover. Shells of different form, say more
oblong, can be used for leaves. After arranging
such figures as you like with the shells you have,
fill up the spaces with the very small ones. Rice
shells are the prettiest, but they are costly. Some
prefer sticking the shells into a puttied surface,
which does very well. Varnish with a. very little
copal varnish, using great care.

SHELLS, Etc/zing.—It is done simply by
means of acids. The parts not to be acted upon
must be protected by a soocalled etching-ground,
which is nothing but a thin layer of varnish black-
ened in a flame so as to see plainly the figures
afterward drawn on it. Be careful when doing
this to make a clear drawing or writing in which
the shell is exposed at the bottom of every line,
as any remaining varnish would protect those
parts, and the writing would not be brought out.
The acid, either strong acetic, diluted nitric, or
hydro-chloric, is then applied, and when its action
is sufficient it is washed off with water, the
varnish is rubbed off with turpentine or alcohol;
when the drawing or lettering will appear, and
look as if out in with an engraver’s tool. You
may also make your design with varnish on the
shell by means of a fine brush, then the acid will
dissolve the surface around the lines drawn,
when the writing will appear in relief, the letters
being elevated in place of being sunk in as by the
former process. The latter is the more common
way in which these shells are treated. This
method is applied to many other objects; all
that is wanted being a liquid dissolving the ma-
terial to be acted upon, and a varnish to protect
some parts from its action. 5,

T HE UREA! PA INT ING.— This style 0
painting has been called Oriental Painting, and
several other names. It is best adapted to fruits,
birds, etc. It enables you to paint on paper,
silk, velvet, crape, and light-colored wood.

T a Make [Jam Paper.—Take equal parts
mastic and Japan varnish; add to it half as much
balsam of fir as there is of either of the varnishes,
and a piece of white wax the size of a thimble;
simmer together till the wax is melted. If it 15
too thick, add a little spirits of turpentine—Put

ORNAMENTAL WORK

it on one side of the paper while it is warm, the
paper having previously been prepared With
painters’ oil, to make it transparent. The 011
must be put 11 n both sides rather warm,_ and
the whole of t e paper lie together one night;
then wiped with a cloth to absorb the oil on the
surface, and dried one week in the sun before
varnishing. Each side of the paper must be var-
nished twice, and the greatest care taken to dry
it well. .

Trace the picture to be copied on white paper
with a soft lead pencil, and mark those parts
which do not touch each other with a figure I.
Mark another piece of horn paper for theorem 2,
and out again. Thus continue till you have
enough theorems for your whole picture. It
takes more time to cut a set of theorems nicely
than to draw one picture; but a good set of
theorems is equal to twenty or thirty sketches,
and the durability depends upon the care with
which you treat them. You need a brush for
every color used; of course, you must have
plenty of stiff brushes. Put a few drops of water
on your palette with the end of the brush, to
avoid dipping the bristles in water.

Lay the theorem on the paper to be painted.
Good drawing paper is best for the first attempt.
Press the theorem firmly down at each corner
with weights, and then proceed to paint. Com~
mence with a leaf; take plenty of paint, a very
little moist, on your brush, and paint in the cut
leaf of the theorem; hold the brush upright, and
work quickly with a circular motion. Commence
a little distance from, and work towards, the
edges. If you take enough paint, it goes on
smoothly; if too much, it looks dauby; if too
little, spotted. In shading leaves, cut bits of
horn paper on the edge, in the form of large
veins, and laying on the leaf already painted,
paint from this edge into the leaf. Slip the pa-
per and paint other vained parts the same
way. If successful with leaf, try a grape, which
paint first purple, then blue, and finish with car-
mine. On removing the last of your theorem, if
you see any irregularity in the painted parts, lay
the theorem on again, and correct; if any spaces,
dot in with a fine brush. All fibers, stalks, dots,
etc., must be put in with camel’s hair pencils.
To highten the effect, paint may be stuck on here
and there with a stiff brush, and the edges blend-
ed together to produce softness.

To Paint on [Vanni—Choose hard wood of
light color; paint as above, and varnish when
done.

To Paint on Vrlwls—Use firm white cotton
velvet. Use paint a little more moistened.

To Paint on Silk, Satin, ana’ Crape.—Size
the parts to be painted with gum arabic or isin-
glass, and proceed as with drawing paper. In
this way ball dresses may be painted with belt
and neck ribbon to match; also white crape dres-
ses, with vines of gold and silver.

fRANSFERRIA/‘G, T a Glam—Colored or
plain engravings, photographs, lithographs, water
colors, 011 colors, crayons, steel plates, news-

 

249

paper cuts, mezzotints, pencil, writing, show
cards, labels—or, in fact, anything.

Directions.—Take glass that is perfectly clear
—window glass will answer; clean it thoroughl ;
then varnish it, taking care to have it perfectly
smooth; place it where it will be entirely free
from dust; let it stand over night; then take
your engraving, lay it in clear water until it is
wet through, (say ten or fifteen minutes) then lay
it upon a newspaper, that the moisture may dry
from the surface and still keep the other side
damp. Immediately varnish your glass the
second time; then place your engraving on it,
pressing it down firmly, so as to exclude every
particle of air; next rub the paper from the bac
until it is of uniform thickness—so thin that you
can see through it; then varnish it the third time ,
and let it dry.

Materials used fir t/ze about A rt.—Take two
ounces balsam of fir to one ounce of spirits of
turpentine; apply with a camel’s hair brush.

TRANSFERRIA’G, To IVoaa’.—-Dissolve salt
in soft water; float your engraving on the sur-
face, picture side up; let it remain about one
hour. Your screen box or table should be of
bird’s-eye maple, or other light-colored hard
wood; varnish with best copal or transfer varnish.

Take the picture from the water; dry a little
between linen rags; then put the engraving,
picture side down, on the varnished wood, and
smooth it nicely. If the picture entirely covers
the wood after the margin is cut off, so that no
varnish be exposed, lay over it a thin board and
heavy weight; leave it thus in press over night.
If you wish but a small picture in the centre of
your wood, apply the varnish only to a space
the size of your picture. Dip your fore-finger in
salt and water, and commence with rubbing off
the paper; the nearer you come to the engrav-
ing, the more careful you must be, as a hole
would spoil your work—Rub slowly and pa-
tiently till you have taken off every bit of the
paper and left only the black lines and touches
of your picture on the wood, in an inverted
direction. Finish up with two or three coats of
copal varnish.

TRA NSPA RENCIE S, To Makes—Take some
prettily colored landscape and cut a slit into the
broad lights of it with a penknife; put a white

aper of medium thickness behind it, and inter-
ine with orange or rose-colored paper; bind the
three—that is, the landscape, the colored paper,
and the paper which forms the back—together
with some suitable color for a frame; now se-
parate the cut edges of your landScape by pres-
sing them apart. Hang up in the window, and
when the sun shines through, the effect is beauti-
ful. Try it; we are sure you will be pleased.

An engraving prepared as for Grecian painting
is very pretty for a screen, or to hang in the
window. Lamp shades may be made in this
way, and many pretty designs will suggest them-
selves ; bouquets, wreaths, vines, running round
the shade, etc. Also still more beautiful is the
antique style, before painting.

250

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

PAINTING AND PAPERING,
INCLUDING, VARNISHING, POLISHING, STAINING AND GILDING.

BLA CRIS—Lamp Black, is merely the smoke
from various substances. The best is from coal
tar. This is the best black for all common
painting. —Iwry Black, or bone black, is only
charred bone. It has not the body, nor does it
work as freely as lamp black. — Asp/talz‘um, al-
though so very transparent, is, when several
coats are laid on, a most intense black, but not
of much service when exposed to the weather.
It is best used dissolved in turpentine, slightly
warm, with or without a little boiled oil. With-
out the oil, it dries very quick; with it, much
slower. It makes the black varnish used for
japanning tin and other metals. Gum asphaltum
is gathered from the surface of the Dead Sea, or
the Lake Asphaltites, in Judea.

BL UES.—Copper is the base of most blues,
though some are formed from iron and cobalt. —
Prussian Blue is properly a ferrocyanuret
of iron, produced by various processes. As a
vehicle, dried or calcined blood and horns and
hoofs are used.—There are other methods, where
animal matter is not used, in which pearlash,
coke, and iron-filings form the compound. It is
also chemically prepared with sul hate of iron
and prussiate of potash; but in all these prepara-
tions the composition is iron and prussic acid.
The prussic acid, however, is not in sufficient
quantity to make the color in the least degree
poisonous. — Ultramarine. This beautiful

Inc was formerly made from lazulite, the beau-
tiful variegated blue mineral, and was once worth,
in Italy, twenty-five dollars an ounce. That used
in the arts now is composed of carbonate of soda,
sulphur, and kaolin, colored with cobalt. This
color has but little body as an oil color, but is of
a most brilliant hue, and wears about as well as
the Prussian blue. In oil it is a transparent color,
but is more dense in distemper, and covers better.

BLUE, PR USSIAIV. -— Potash or pearlash,
10 parts; coke, Cinders, or coal, 10 parts; iron
turnings, 5 parts. Grind into a coarse powder
and expose for half an hour to a full red heat,
in an open crucible, stirring the mixture occasion-
ally. When the small jets of purple flame cease.
which will be in about the time named, allow the
mass to cool; then add water to dissolve the
soluble matter, and set aside the black foot that
remains for a future operation. Next filter the
solution, and add sulphate of iron (copperas),
five parts (dissolved), and brighten the color of
the precipitate by the addition of muriatic acid.
This process yields twenty-five per cent. of Prus-
sian blue (ferrocyanide of iron) on the quantity
of pure potash in the salt employed. The larger
the quantity operated on, the greater the relative
product . o
‘ Bl. UEfor CEILIZVGS. —Boil slowl for 3
hours I lb. blue vitriol and % lb. of t e best
whiting in about 3 pts. water; stir it frequently
while boiling, and also on taking it off the fire.
When it has stood till quite cold, pour off the
blue liquid, then mix the cake of color with good
size, and use it with a plasterer’s brush in the
same manner as whitewash, either for walls or
ceilings. »

 

BROWNFREESTONE, To Imitate.-—-This
paint is not made by mixing the ground stone nor
any thing in it. First, make a pretty thick oil
paint of the same color as the stone to be imi-
tated, which may be done in different ways. The
basis is white-1ead or zinc white, colored with
umber and Mars red, or any other pigments
which suit you ; put it on as usual, and while yet
sticky throw common fine sand against it; this
will not affect the color, and make a rough, sandy
coat imitating the surface of the stone.

BRUSHES, Cart qf. -—- Brushes used for
applying finishing varnishes should be cared for
with the utmost pains, as good work depends
much upon the good condition of the brushes.
A good way to keep them is to suspend them by
the handles in a covered can, keeping the points
at least half an inch from the bottom, and apart
from each other. The can should be filled with
slow drying varnish up to a line about a sixteenth
of an inch above the bristles or hair. The can
should then be kept in a close cupboard, or in a
box fitted for the purpose.

As wiping a brush on a sharp edge of tin will
gradually split the bristles, cause them to curl
backward, and eventually ruin the brush, the top
of the can should have a wire soldered along the
edge, or the edge of tin turned over, in order to
prevent injury. Finishing brushes should not
be cleansed in turpentine, except in extreme
cases. When taken from the can prepare them
for use by working them out in varnish, and be-
fore replacing them cleanse the handles and bind-
ing with turpentine.

CARMIrVE.—Take cochineal, I pound; car-
bonate or potass. 3% drachms; water, 7 gallons.
Simmer for a little time, then remove the copper
from the fire, and scatter powdered alum, 8
drachms, over the surface; let it stand fifteen
minutes, until clear, then decant and put the
solution into a clean copper, heat it, and add
isinglass, 3% drachms, previously dissolved in 2
quarts of water and strained. Then bring it to
a boil, and when a coagulum is formed, take it
from the fire and stir it with a clean spatula; let
it rest for twenty minutes, and the carmine will
be found at the bottom of the liquid. Decant, and
drain the carmine upon a piece of fine linen.

The remaining solution will make fine car-
minated lake.

CAR/WINE, GERMA 1V. ——Take cochineal,
1 pound; water, 7 gallons. Boil for five minutes,
then add alum, I ounce. Boil for five minutes
more, filter and set aside the decoction in glass
or porcelain vessels for three days, then decant
the liquor and dry the carmine in the shade.
The remaining liquor will still deposit color of
an inferior quality, by standing.

CARMINE (Common) To Improve. ——Take
carmine, one part; water of ammonia to dissolve.
Digest in the sun until the ammonia is saturated
with the coloring part of the carmine, then pre-
cipitate the color with alcohol and acetic and.
Wash the precipitate carefully with alcohol and.

y it. .
CHES T N U T- C OLOR, To mafia—This color

PAINTING AND PAPERING.

is composed of red, yellow and black. The eng-
lish red, or red ochre of Auvergne, ochre de rue
and a little black, form a dark chestnut color. It
is roper for painting of every kind. If English
red), which is dryer than that of Auvergne, be
employed, it will be proper, when the color 15
intended for varnish, to grind it with drying nut-
oil. The ochre of Auvergne may be ground
with the mastic gallipot, and mixed up with galli-
pot varnish.

. The most experienced artists grind dark colors
,with linseed oil, when the situation will admit of
its being used, because it is more drying. For
articles without doors nut-oil is preferable. The
colors of oak-wood, walnut-tree, chestnut, olive,
and yellow, require the addition of a little
litharge ground on porphyry: it hastens the des-
iccation of the color, and gives it body.

But if it is intended to cover these colors with
varnish, as is generally done in wainscoting, they
must be mixed up with essence, to which a little
oil has been added. The color is then much
better disposed to receive the varnish, under
which it exhibits all the splendor it can derive
from the reflection of the light.

COLORS, To Alix and Use. —Prz'mz'ng.
Quite too little attention is paid to this depart-
ment. The color is usually mixed up too thin
and put on too heavy. The reverse is much the
best. Let the priming be as thick as will spread
easily, and then be well rubbed out under the
brush. Litharge is the only drying necessary
in priming. All work, inside or out, may be
primed the same—Putlying. After the priming;
all work should have the nail- heads and cracks
puttied up. It should be done with a putty-knife;
puttying up with the fingers is a barbarous prac-
tice, and does not fill the holes wed—Sand-

, Papering and dusting should be done before the
puttying; being done afterwards, is apt to dish
out the puttied places—Second Coat—(Outside).
Mix with raw oil and use it as thick as it will
spread easily. After the work is all covered, it
should be cross-smoothed till it has an even sur-
face, and then finished lengthwise, with long
sweeps of the brush, pressing lightly.—T/zz'rd
Coat.—Made a little thinner than for the second
coat, and rubbed out as much as possible, cross-
smoothed, and finished with the tip of the brush
very lightly, so as not to show the brush marks.
Second Coat—(Inside). Mixed as thick as it will
work, with equal parts of raw oil and turpentine.
Particular care should be taken to rub this out
well, cross-smoothing and finishing with the tip
of the brush; else the color will lie in ridges,
which the next coat will not hide—Third Coat.
Mixed with three parts turpentine and one of
raw oil, rubbed out thoroughly and smoothed
carefully, so as to show no brush marks.—Fourt/z
Coat—Flatting. Mixed with all turpentine thin
enough so that it may be spread before it sets.
Spread over uickly, without cross-smoothing;
finish lengthWISe with light sweeps of the tip of
the brush ; three or four strokes will be as much
as one can do before it sets. Square up and finish
each piece of work before beginning another.——
Drawn Flattz'ng. Mix up the ground lead with
turpentine, nearly as thin as for flatting. Let it
stand till the lead settles and the oil and turpen-
tine rise to the top. Pour it off and mix again,
and repeat the operation till that which rises to
the top is clear turpentine. B this process the
oil in which the lead is groun is entirely drawn

 

25:

out, and the lead is mixed with turpentine. This
color, however, is quite different from what it
would be if the lead had been ground in turpen-
tine. It is more tenacious, and flows better.

Much care must be taken to spread this on
thickly and evenly. The room must be kept close,
and free from any draught of air, as the color sets as
fast as put on. This is used only as a fourth
coat—Polish W/zz'te. This chaste and durable
finish requires the zinc white to do it properly.
It is made by mixing the zinc white with white
varnish—Common Metfioa’. After priming and
second-coating in the usual way with lead, finish
with the polish white—Best Met/rod. Put on
two coats, as above, and then spread on several
coats of yellow ochre, turpentine, and japan, with
a little litharge. When dry, rub smooth and
level with pumice stone. Then put on one coat
of inside second coating, and flatten as usual;
rub down with umice stone, then a coat of 01-
ish white, and nish with a flowing coat of w ite
varnish, in which is mixed some of the zinc
white.—-( Remarks.) When work is to be tin-
ished with a gloss, the previous coat should be a
dead surface; when it is to be flattened, the pre-
vious coat should have a degree of gloss.

Lead is the white referred to in the above de-
scriptions, yet the rules given for mixing may be
applied to all other colors, except that the darker
colors are generally finished with a gloss, inside
or out. They require no turpentine only when
they are to be varnished.

Oil dries with a glossy, turpentine. with a flat
surface.

It is a wrong idea to put on heavy coats of
paint; the more it is rubbed out, the better will.
the work look and wear. Each coat should
stand two or three days before receiving another
coat

Color needs more drying in winter than in sum-
mer. Outside work lasts longer if painted in
cold weather, as not so much of the liquid is eva-
porated, and a heavier body is thus dried upon
the surface.

Litharge or japan is a good dryer for outside
work, and for priming in the inside, or for dark
colors ; but sulphate of zinc is only fit for the last
coats on the inside, though sugar of lead is used.
Either of them may be dissolved in water, and
stirred into the color.

Transparent colors will work more freely, and
spread on with an evener flow, by being mixed
with raw oil and japan, with a little water stirr-
e m.

In mixing thick colors, the liquid should be
added gradually, else the lumps will not be thor-
oughly broken.

C OPA L, To Dino/w in Alcohol. -— Copal,
which is called gum copal, but which is not, strictly,
either a gum or a resin, is the hardest and least
changeable of all ubstances adapted to form var-
nishes, by their di solution in spirit. or essential,
or fat oils. It, therefore forms the most valuable
varnishes ; though we shall give several receipts
where it is not employed, which form cheaper
varnishes, sufliciently good for many purposes,
adding only the general rule, that no varnish
must be expected to be harder than the substance
from which it is made.

To dissolve copal in alcohol, dissolve half an
ounce of cam hor in a pint of alcohol ; put it into a
circulating g ass, and add four ounces of copal in
small pieces; set it in a. sand-heat, so regulated

252

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

that the bubbles may be counted as they rise from
the bottom, and continue the same heat till the
solution is completed.

The process above mentioned will dissolve
more copal than the menstrum will retain when
cold. The most economical method will there-
fore be, to set the vessel which contains the solu-
tion by for a few days, and, when it is perfectly
settled, our off the clear varnish, and leave the
residue or future operation.

The solution of copal thus obtained is very
bright. It is an excellent varnish for pictures,
and would, doubtless, be an improvement in
japanning, where the stoves used for drying the
varnished articles would drive off the camphor,
and leave the copal clear and colorless in the

Work.

C OPA L. T oDirroli/e in Spirit: of T urpmtinc.
Reduce two ounces of copal to small pieces, and put
them into a proper vessel. Mix a pint of the best
spirits of turpentine with one-eighth of spirits of sal
ammoniac; shake them well together, put them to
the copal, cork the glass, and tie it over with a
string or wire, making a small hole through the
cork. Set the glass in a sand-heat so regulated
as to make the contents boil as quickly as possible,
but so gently that the bubbles may be counted
as they rise from the bottom. The same heat
must be kept up exactly till the solution is com-

lete.

P It requires the most accurate attention to suc~
ceed in this operation. After the spirits are
mixed, they should be put to the Copal, and the
necessary degree of heat be given as soon as pos—
sible, and maintained with the utmost regularity.
If the heat abates, or the spirits boil quicker than
is directed, the solution will immediately stop,
and it will afterwards be in vain to proceed with
the same materials : but if properly managed, the
spirit of sal ammoniac will be seen gradually to
descend from the mixture, and attack the copal,
which swells and dissolves, excepting a very
small quantity which remains undissolved.

It is of much consequence that the vessel
should not be opened till some time after it has
been perfectly cold; for if it contain the least
warmth when opened, the whole contents will be
blown out of the vessel.

Whatever quantity is to be dissolved should be
put into a glass vessel capable at least of con-
taining four times as much, and it should be high
in roportion to the width.

This varnish is of a deep rich color, when
viewed in the bottle, but seems to give no color
to the picture upon which it is laid. If it be left
in the damp, it remains racky, as it is called, a
long time; but if kept in a warm room, or placed
in the sun, it dries as well as any other turpen-
tine varnish, and when dry it appears to be as
durable as any other solution of copal.

Copal may also be dissolved in spirits of tur-
pentine by the assistance of camphor.

Turpentine varnishes dry more slowly than
those made with alcohol, and are less hard; but
they are not so liable to crack.

C OPA L-LA C A’ER, Improved Prawn/227' the
Preparation tf—Copal-lacker is generall pre-
pared by carefully melting copal, adding inseed
oil varnish. and afterwards oil of turpentine. By
Hoedfield’s process (patented in France) twice
the amount of oil of turpentine that generally is
taken is used to procure a more complete solution
of the copal, and to obtain the lacker clearer and

 

more colorless. Air is then passed into the mix-
ture for some time, when the oxygen under the
influence of the oil of turpentine becomes ozoniz-
ed, and acting upon the oil hastens its drying.
As soon as the oxidation is thought suflicient,
half of the oil of turpentine is distilled off; the
remaining lacker contains therefore not more of
the oil than ordinarily prepared lacker, but it
dries quicker and is more colorless. The distill-
ed oil of turpentine is greatly superior for the
preparation of fresh portions of the lacker, on ac-
count of the azone it still contains, and is used
solely for this purpose. .

DR YER, 7APAAC—I. Take linseed oil, I
gallon; put into it gum shellac, % 1b.; litharge
and burned Turkey umber, each % 1b.; red lead,
% 1b.; sugar of lead, 6 oz. Boil in the oil till all
are dissolved, which will require about four
hours ; remove from the fire, and stir in spirits
turpentine, 1 gallon, and it is done—2. Lin-
seed oil, 5 gallons; add red lead and litharge,
each 3% lbs.; raw umber, 1% lbs.; sugar of lead
and sulphate of zinc, each ’2 1b.; pulverize all the
articles together, and boi in the oil dissolved;
yvhen a little cool, thin with turpentine, 5 gal-
ons.

DR YER, for Painting. —Vitreous oxide of
lead (litharge), is of no other use in painting
than to free oils from their greasy articles, for
the purpose of communicating to them a drying
quality. Red litharge, however, ought to be
preferred to the greenish yellow; it is not so
hard, and answers better for the purpose to which
it is destined.

When painters wish to obtain a common color
of the ochrey kind, and have no boiled oil by
them, they may paint with linseed oil, not freed
from its greasy particles, by mixing with the color
about 2 or 3 parts of litharge, ground on a piece
of porphyry with water, dried, and reduced to
fine powder, for 16 parts of oil. The color has
a great deal of body, and dries as speedily as if
mixed with dr ing oil.

DR YIN G 01L, (Colorlesr).—Boil linseed oil
for two hours with three per cent. of red lead,
filter it, and then expose it to sunlight in large
shallow vessels, frequently renewing the air

above.

DRYING 011. for ZINC PAINT. —— In or-
der to avoid the use of oxide of lead in making
drying oil for zinc paint, oxide of manganese has
been proposed as a substitute. The process to
be adopted is as follows :

The manganese is broken into pieces about the
size of peas, dried, and the powder separated by
means of a sieve. The fragments are then to be
introduced into a bag made of iron-wire gauze.
This is hung in the oil contained in an iron or
copper vessel, and the whole heated gently for24
or 36 hours. The oil must not be allowed to
boil, in which case there is great danger of its
running over. When the oil has acquired a red-
dish color, it is to be poured into an appropriate
vessel to clear.

For 100 parts of oil 10 of oxide of manganese
may be employed, which will serve for several
operations when freshly broken and the dust sep-
arated. Experience has shown, that when fresh
oxide of manganese is used it is better to intro-
duce it into the oil upon the second day. The
process likewise occupies a longer time with the
fresh oxide. Very great care is requisite in this
operation to prevent accident, and one of the

ORNA MEN TA L W ORR:

principal points to be observed is that the oil is
not overheated. If the boiling should render
the oil too thick, this may be remedied by an
addition of turpentine after it has thoroughly

cooled.

DRYING (Quick) PAIN 7‘. —Twelve parts
of shellac and four parts of borax are added to
one hundred parts of water; heat is carefully ap-
plied, while the mixture is continually stirred,
and soon a complete solution is obtained which is
colorless or brown according to the color of the
shellac employed. This solution, as we have
said, forms a varnish perfectly impermeable to
water, and not acted on by the atmosphere. It
can be used with oil paints, to make them dr
quickly, by adding an equal part of the varnis
with a little turpentine to the oil color, and rub-
bing them together until a homogeneous fluid
mixture is obtained. This mixture dries in from
ten to fifteen minutes, and hence only a small
quantity must be repared at a time.

DARK W00 5, To [mitata.—-The appear-
ance of walnut may be given to white woods, by
painting or sponging them with a concentrated
warm solution of permanganate of potassa. The
effect is different on different kinds of timber,
some becoming stained very rapidly, others res
quiring more time for this result. The per-
manganate is decomposed by the woody fibre;
brown peroxyd of manganese is precipitated.
which is afterward removed by washing with wa-
ter. The wood, when dry, may be varnished,
and will be found to resemble very closely the
natural dark woods.

FRE S C 0 PAINTING. ——The ground upon
which fresco is painted is a lime ground; and,
in order to have a permanent picture, we must
have a firm and stable ground. _ First of all, the
wall must be absolutely dry; there must be no
leakage of moisture from behind. Lime which
has been run (as it is, I believe, technically called
by builders) for a .year or a year and a half, is
best to be employed, for in proportion as the
lime has been carbonated (though it must not be
so to too great an extent) by the action of the
carbonic acid of the air, it makes a better and a
harder mortar. With this lime must be mixed
river sand, of even grain; the sand should be
mixed with water, and allowed to pass along
down a small stream, so that in the centre of the
stream you would have sand the grains of which
would be pretty nearly equal in size. This is a
point of considerable importance. The reason
Why new lime cannot and ought not to be used
is because it blisters; small blisters appear on
the surface, and that of course would be ruinous
to a picture. A well plastered wall should not
have a blister or a crack in it, and this is secured
by having your lime run for some time, of good
quality to start with, and mixed with good
sand. There is no chemical process that I know
of that takes place in fresco painting other than
this, that silicates are formed by the action of the
lime upon the sand, and carbonates by the action
of the carbonic acid of the air upon the lime.

' In painting a fresco picture, inasmuch as there

_ is no retouching the work when it is finished, the
artist must make his drawing very carefully. The
cartoon is made upon ordinary paper; then it is
fixed against the wall, where the picture is to be
painted._ The part where the artist decides to
egin his work is uncovered; that is to say, a
portion of the paper is turned down and cut away,

 

253

but in such a manner that it may be replaced.
Then the plasterer puts fresh plaster, about an
eight of an inch thick, upon the uncovered por<
tion of the wall; and the plasterer’s work is of
the utmost importance in fresco painting. The
workman ought to practice it well before he
attempts to prepare the ground for a large picture,
and I have found it of the greatest importance
to allow the man to practice for several weeks
before he was allowed to prepare any portion of
the ground, even for decorative painting. In
this way he becomes accustomed to the suction
of the wall, and upon the suction of the wall
depends the soundness of the ground and the
success of fresco painting. When the plaster is
first put on, of course it is very soft; the piece
of the cartoon is replaced upon it, and the lines
of the picture are gone over with a bone point so
that an indentation is made, and then the artist
begins his painting. At first he finds his colors
work greasy; you cannot get the tint to lie on,
it works streaky; but you must not mind that,
you must paint on, but you must only paint on
for a certain time, for if you go on painting too
long, you will interfere with the satisfactory suc-
tion of the ground, which is so necessary to pro-
duce a good fresco painting. Of course, nothing
but practice can tell any one the period at which
he ought to stop. I cannot describe it, because
I should be simply trying to describe a sensation,
which I cannot do. After some practice, you
know perfectly well by the feel when you ought
to stop. If you feel your color flowing from your
brush too readily, you ought to stop at this period.
You must then leave our work for a time, and
go back to it again. nd then you will find, as
the laster sucks in the color which you have
first aid on, that there will be,—it ma be in the
course of half an hour, it may be an our; that
depends upon the temperature of the atmosphere,
--a pleasant suction from your brush, the color
going from it agreeably, and you will find that it
will cover better. Now is the time to paint ra-
pidly, and complete the work you have in hand.
When the color leaves your brush as though the
wall were thirsty for moisture, you should cease
painting; every touch that is applied after that
will turn out gray when it dies, and the color will
not be fast upon the wall.

FIRE-PROOF PAINT, for Roe/8‘, etc. —
Slack stone lime by putting it into a tub, to be
covered, to keep in the steam. When slacked,
pass the powder through a fine sieve; and to
each 6 qts. of it add, I qt. of rock-salt, and water
I gal. ; then boil and skim clean. To each 5
gals. of this add, pulverized alum I 1b. pulverized
copperas % 1b.; and still slowly add powdered
potash 3/4 1b.; then fine sand or hickory ashes
4 lbs. Now add any desired color, and apply
with a brush— looks better than paint, and IS as
durable as slate. It stops small leaks in roofs,
prevents moss, and makes it incombustible and
renders brick impervious to wet.

FROSTING GLASS.—I. Take sugar oflead
well ground in oil, applied as other paint; then
pounced, while fresh, with a wad of batting held
between the thumb and finger. After which it
is allowed to partially dry; then with a straight-
edge laid upon the sash, you run along by the
side of it, a stick sharpened to the width of line
you wish to appear in the diamonds, figures, or
squares, into which you choose to lay it ofl';
most frequently, however, straight lines are made

254‘

DICTIONARY 0F EVERV-DAY WANTS.

 

an inch or more from the sash, according to the
size of light, then the centre of the light made
into diamonds.—2. A common preparation for
frosting glass to prevent the too direct action of
the solar heat in green-houses, etc., is a wash of
whiting and glue-water. It must not contain too
much glue, as it is desired to wash it off late in
the season by the action of rain, to compensate
for the decrease in temperature.

FURNITURE CREA M.——Beeswax, I lb. ;
ioa , 4 02.; pearlash, 2 oz.; soft water, I gal.;
. oi together until mixed.

FURNITURE OIL—I. Acetic acid, 2 drs. ;
oil of lavender, % dr.; rectified spirit, ! dr.;
linseed-oil, 4 oz.—2. Linseed-oil, I pt.; alkanet-
root, 2 oz. : heat, strain, and add lac varnish, I
oz.—3. Linseed—oil, I pt.; rectified spirit, 2 02.;
butter of antimony, 4 oz.

FURNITURE PA S T E.—I. Turpentine, I
pt. ; alkanet-root, % oz. ; digest until sufficiently
colored, then add beeswax, scraped small, 4 oz. :
put the vessel into hot water, and stirr till dis-
solved. If wanted pale, the alkanet-root should
be omitted.——2. (White) White wax, 1 lb. ;
liquor of potassa, % gal.; boil to a proper con-
sistence—3. Beeswax, I 1b.; soap, % 1b.; pearl-
ash, 3 oz. (dissolved in water, % gal. , and
strained); boil as last—4. Yellow wax, 16 parts;
resin, I part; alkanet-root, I part; turpentine,
6 parts; linseed-oil, 6 parts. First steep the
alkanet in the oil with heat, and, when well
colored, pour off the clear on the other ingre-
dients, and again heat till all are dissolved.

GILDING, Mixture for, and How to Ur: it.
—-Gold size may be used as a laying coat. How-
ever, the mixture of the house-gilders is prefer-
able, and consists of an addition of white lead
and chrome yellow, ground very fine with linseed
0

This mixture must be used quite dry, that is
to say, often stirred, and the brush or pencil
pressed against the sides of the cup to remove all
excess. A good mixture may receive the gold
twelve hours after it has been laid down, and the
same process answers for bronzing. When the
gilder has delivered his work to the painter, the
latter must wash it with plenty of water, taking
care not to scratch the old. It is better to wait
three or four days be ore washing. The gold
striping receives a first fixing with gelatine dis-
solved in water and a second with white varnish
diluted with turpentine. ~When all is dry, the
portions of gold which may have stuck against
the paint of the groundwork are covered with the
same color; or, if we desire to avoid this extra
Work, we rub the body and gears with a sponge
dip ed into water containing finely levigated clay.

ILDIN G LIQUID.——Take of fine gold five
ounces (troy); nitra-muriatic acid, fifty-two oun-
ces; dissolve by heat, and continue the heat
until red or yellow vapors are evolved; decant
the clean liquid into a proper vessel; add of
distilled water, four gallons; pure bicarbonate
of potash, 20 lbs; boil for two hours.

GILDIJVG, Out Duane—Take unruled writ-
ing paper, and wax it. First put on the size,
and then take the book of leaf, and laying it on
any convenient surface, slip the waxed pa er into
the gold leaf, pressing it down with the and so
as to bring the waxed surface in contact with all

arts of the leaf, then withdraw the paper and the
eaf will adhere to it. In this way a hurricane
may be defied.

 

GILDING, T 0 Improve.— Mix a gill of water
with two ounces of purified niter, one ounce of
alum, one ounce 0 common salt; lay this over
gilt articles with a brush, and the color will be
much improved.

GILDIN G, Burnished—Coat the wood first
with size, and afterwards with size and whiting
mixed until a sufficient thickness is obtained.
Between each coat, glass paper must be used to,
smooth the surface. The gold size is now appliedl
thinly, and when nearly dry the leaf is attached,.
and afterwards burnished. ‘

GILDIN G on Glam—I. Mix powdered gold
with thick gumarabic and powdered borax. With
this trace the design on the glass, and then bake
it in a hot oven. Thus the gum is burnt and the
borax is vitrified, at the same time the gold is
fixed on the glass. To make powdered gold:
Rub down gold leaf with pure honey on a marble
slab, wash the mixture, and the “precipitate” is
the gold used.—2. Dissolve in boiled linseed oil
an equal weight either of copal or amber, and.
add as much oil of turpentine as will enable you
to apply the compound or size thus formed as
thin as possible to the parts of glass intended to
be gilt. The glass is to be placed in a stove, till
so warm as almost to burn the fingers when
handled. At this temperature the size becomes
adhesive, and a piece of leaf gold, applied in the
usual way, will immediately stick. Sweep off the
superfluous portions of the leaf, and when quite
cold it may be burnished. Take care to interpose
a piece of Indian paper between the gold and
burnisher.

GILDERS GLUE.—-A very superior article
of the so called gilders’ glue is obtained by cut-
ting rabbit-skins into fine shreds, and boiling in
water, then turning the mixture into a basket,
through which the liquid passes, leaving the re-
fuse behind. About fifteen hundred grains of
sulphate of zinc and three hundred and seventy-
five of alum are then to be separately dissolved
in pure boiling water, and poured into the first-
mentioned liquid, and the whole well stirred
together while hot. The mixture is then to be
passed through a sieve into a rectangular box, in
which the jelly remains twenty-four hours in
winter, or about forty-eight in summer. The
mass now having become solid, is to be separated
from the box, and cut into slices of proper thick-
ness, and laid upon nets to dry, either in the
open air or by means of some kind of artificial

eat.

GILDING, Sizing fine—The best sizing for
gilding on glass is made as follows : Put a piece
of isinglass as large as an old fashioned cent into
a teacup; fill half full with boiling water. When
well mixed, and before cold, fill nearly full with
spirits of wine.

GLA ZIJVG.—Sashes are primed before glaz-
ing. Glass laid in with the crown or convex
side out. The tins driven in with a chisel or
glazing hammer; four tins to each glass on the
two long sides, about one fourth of the distance
from the corners. If tins are put in the center,
they are apt to break the glass, especially in cold
weather.—-—Barle Putlying. In good work and
medium-sized glass, after the glazing is done and
the putty well set, fill the spaces on the inside.
Use the putty soft, or it will press the glass out.
—Btdding, for superior work and large glass,
is the best. Glaze the rabbet with soft putty,
and press the glass down into it as close as it will

ORNAMENTAL WORK:

la ressin on the edges and not the middle of
th}:g1lass, thgen glaze as usual. Where the mould-
ing of the sash is to go outside, the crown Side
of the glass should be out also.—Clmnmg after

the glazing is done, with water and a brush, or-

with whiting and a dry brush. The line of the
putty should come just even with the hne of the
moulding on the other side of the glass. .

GOLD LEAF, T o Prevent tlze Adhesion of:
-—Painters and decorators will find the following
plan a good one to simplify a most troublesome
part of their work: A small piece of ball liquorlce,
dissolved in water, applied with a flat camel’s
hair brush to the place intended to be left ungllt,
will prevent the leaf adhering. The solution must
be weak. Made thick and gumm , it is very
useful to protect ornamental parts 0 work that 15
to be re-painted.

GRA 1A71NG.—In order to obtain any degree
of perfection in the imitations of woods and
marbles, it is necessary to procure panels or bits
of veneer, and copy the color and form of the
grains as near as possible.—Growingr in _Oz'l.
Mix the grain color in boiled oil and turpentine,
and add a little soap, or whiting, or even both:
it makes it flow better. Clean the sponge, etc.,
in oil or turpentine—For Distemper, the grain
color is ground in ale, beer, vinegar, or whiskey;
the object being to bind the color so that it Will
not rub off. As a general thing, stale ale or beer
is the best. Whiskey, however, in cold weather,
might be preferred, because it does not creep like
other fluids; but if the ground~work is rubbed
over with whiskey it will be sufficient. Graining
should be done with a free and careless motion
of the hand, yet having an eye to the character
of the woods—Distemper Grainz'ng requires the
ground-work to be dampened by rubbing all
over with a sponge wrung out of the ale, previous
to putting on the grain color. The ground-work:
as in other mixtures, take the body color first,
and add the positive colors by degrees, till the
required tint is produced. The work may be

rimed, as for other work, with any light color.

he second coat must approach to the ground-
color, and the third coat must be the tint to grain
upon, and is best mixed with a gloss, either for
inside or out. Less than three coats of ground
color will not make a good job. In particulariz-
ing the specific quantities of proportion of in-
gredients, we are governed only by general prin-
ciples. The artist must regulate the tint accord-
ing to taste. The brush, cloth, or sponge, or
whatever tools may be used, must be frequently
washed out in water while doing a job—Glazing
colors are transparent, and are mixed very thin,
whether the vehicle is oil or watch—Blending
must be done by brushing the tit of the blender
back and forth lightly over the work while it is
wet—Blazing is done by sliding the blaze stick
up, and bearing round to the right or left. The
same motion is required in packing in the fine
check grain with the side of the blender; striking
with the flat side of the blender, pushing the
hand upward.

GRAflV/NG, Black Walnut—Took. Same
as for mahogany. —-Ground. Drab, made of
lead, yellow ochre, venetian red, and black.—
sz'n Color. Burnt umber. The grain is made
almost the same as for mahogany, only that the
blaze stick is used more freely; and by s ecimens
of the real wood, it will be seen that t e blazes
run nearly the whole length of the branch, and

 

255

more regular than mahogany, running gradually
from bottom to top.

GRAINING, Mafiogany.—Tool.r. A sponge,
or cloth, or a piece of buckskin for wiping out
the lights. A common paint brush, to put on the
color. A blaze stick, to make the bright blazes
in the center of the branch. It is made of a
piece of wood shaved down thin, or a paper card,
three inches long and one inch wide, and very
thin. A blender, to soften the work. A top
grainer, to put in the dark grain. -— Ground.
Chrome yellow and orange red lead. About one
third lead, but sufficient to tint to a bright orange.
—Graz'n Color. Burnt terra de sienna. Dampen
the work with the fluid you grain with. Spread
on the grain color with a brush; blend crosswise.
Wipe out, with a sponge or cloth, the light parts.
Blend again till soft. Put in the blazes up through
the center with the blaze stick. Blend down the
crude roughness of this lengthwise. When dry,
rub off with the hand or a soft cloth, the rough
particles. Give a coat of thin varnish—For
Glazing. Add a small quantity of asphaltum to
the grain color, so that it is a shade darker than
before, and add ale till it is quite thin. Rub it
well out over the whole surface. Blend it cross-
wise. Peck it all over with the side of the blender,
pushing the hand upward to produce the fine
check grain. When dry, ut on the dark top
grain. Another method is, instead of making the
check grain, to wipe the blender through the
glazing, making the top grain in that way. Dark
or light mahogany is made by using correspond—
ing colors in the ground, grain, and glazing.
When the graining does not tint, it may all be
rubbed off with the wet sponge, and grained over
3. am.

GA’AINING, Maple.——7bolr. Brush, to put
on color. Buckskin, to wipe out lights. Blender
and top grainer.—Grouna’. Cream color, made
with white lead and yellow ochre—Grain Color.
Raw sienna and raw umber, equal parts in all.
Coat the work. Fold the buckskin, and with the
edge wipe out the lights which make the curl.
Blend lengthwise of the curl. Varnish with thin
varnish, and when dry, glaze over the whole
with the grain color made very thin, and to
which is added a ve little asphaltum. Wipe
out, with the sponge, arge patches of lights, and
blend crossings. When dry, top grain with the
glaze colon—Bird’s-rye is managed the same
way, except that, after the grain color is laid on,
patches of light are wiped out with a wet sponge.
Blend, and then dot over the whole, in patches,
by sticking the ends of the fingers over it. Then
blend very lightly.

GRAINIJVG, Oak—The most important and
best system of graining oak is the oil-color pro-
cess. It must be understood that oak has two
distinct characteristics. The first is the grain
of the wood, which is formed by the pores, and
which always runs the length way of the lank,
and, in fact, of the tree also, and this is fine or
coarse, as the case may be; the other is technic-
ally called “the figure”—the dapple, the veining,
and the lights of the oak. These markings, al-
most in every case, run across the grain, and, as
a rule, have a silvery reflection, and stand out:
lighter and brighter than the grain, and some—"
times theg have a light silvery edge and a dark
center. f course, both the grain and the mark-
ings are difi'erent in different descriptions of oak.
In the English oak the grain and the veiuing, or

256

figure, are much finer and closer than in the
foreign oak. The Dantzic oak, for instance, is
exceedingly coarse or open in its grain or pores,
and the “lights,” or figure, as a rule in broad or
thick lumps, without much race or beauty of
form; while the figure in English oak is arranged
or flows in graduated curves. having a beauty
peculiarly its own. The grain and the markings
require different methods of working, and there
is no method yet invented which does this so
effectively and so well as the oil process.

New work should be well dusted before being
primed. After the first coat is dry, it should be
rubbed down with sandpaper and sto ped with
good sound putty. Three coats shou (1 then be
put on and the work sandpapered between each
coat; except this be done, no good work can re-
sult. The finishing coat should be mixed with
three parts of oil to one of turps. The color for
light or new oak, commonly called wainscot,
should be a light creamy buff, made with Oxford
ocher and white, and a little vermilion or Venetian
red. Some grainers like a white ground for this
very light oak, but it has a rawness of look which
is not at all pleasant to look upon.

For a middle shade of oak the color should be
stained with Oxford ocher, Venetian red, and a
little burnt umber; and for dark oak, with burnt
umber, Venetian red, and a little orange chrome.
These may all be modified by admixture with
black, in a degree according to whether the oak
when finished is to be warm or cool in tone. And
here we may note that the color of the ground is of
vital importance to the effect of the work when
finished. Many persons don’t care much about
the ground color so that it is light enough, as
they depend upon the glazing color to bring it
up to the required shade. This we are quite
certain is a mistake, for if two panels be grained,
one on a white or nearly white ground, and the
other on a rich colored ground, the former can-
not by any amount of glazing be brought to the
same richness of the color as the latter; therefore
it is the wisest plan to work upon ground colors
which are of the same tone of color, or nearly so,
as the work is intended to be finished. The con-
trast also between the graining color and the

ound color should never be violent. When it
15 so, the work has a staring vulgarity about it
very undesirabe. The “figure” or markings
stand out so prominently and so positively that
all flatness and repose is destroyed. This is a
very common fault with graines, and one which
should be avoided. Grainers of this class are
very fond of bright chrome-yellow ground, and
of glazing their work with burnt sienna, thus
making it “foxy,” and, as a matter of course,
ugly and vulgar.

GRAINI/VG, Rore- PVooa’. — Tools. A flat
brush, sponge, blender, camel’s hair pencil, and
fitches.—-—Grou7zd. Drop black. Spread on the
color, and wipe out with the sponge or flat brush.
The grains are put in with the top grainer and
pencils. Glaze with rose-pink and asphaltum
mixed, and wipe out any knots or shadows to
suit the fancy

GREENS—All mineral greens have their
bases in copper, and some of them contain ar-
senic—Brunswick or Bremen Green is a com-
pound of carbonate of copper and chalk, and the
best has a portion of lead. This is a fine, lasting
green, and is much more neglected than it should
be. It is less poisonous than most greens, as

 

D] C T! ONAR Y 017 E VER Y—DA Y WANTS.

it contains little or no arsenic. When used
alone, it is of too blue a cast, but being lightened
up with light chrome, or lemon chrome yellow,
it makes a green almost equal to emerald, both
in brilliancy and durability, and has a softer plea-
santer tone. An equal quantity of emerald mixed
with it increases its brilliancy.—Srlzeele’.r Green
is composed of acetate of copper and arseniate of
potash. It is very poisonous, without being re-
deemed by beauty or durability. — Emerald
Gwen. This intensely brilliant color is a com-
pound of yellow arsenic and verdigris, and com
sequently the most deadly poison with which
painters have to deal. Some years ago, when
verdigris was in vogue, painters complained of
the deleterious effect of that miserable color; but
they may now well find fault when they are
obliged to stand the ravages of the combined
force of that and arsenic also. It was first dis-
covered and manufactured in France, and has
only been in use a few years, and it is to be hop-
ed that its future existence will be as brief at its
past; for its effects upon the people who have
their rooms painted, washed, and papered with
it are almost as bad as upon the painter who uses
it.—Cfirome Green was formerly made from the
blue oxide of chromium, but that which is now
mostly in use is a compound of potash, sulphur,
and chromic acid. Some factories, however, are
now preparing it from the chemical Prussian blue
and chrome yellow. This is a very soft, rich,
and durable color, but in the rage for the glaring
emerald; it has been much overlooked.

GREEN PAINT. —Every reen color,
simple or compound, when mixe up with a.
white ground, becomes soft, and gives a sea-
green of greater or less strength, and more or
less delicate, in the ration of the respective quan-
tities of the principal colors. Thus, green oxides
of copper, such as chrome green, verdigris, dry
crystallized acetate of copper, green composed
with blue verditer, and the Dutch pink of Troyes;
or any other yellow, will form, with a base of a
white color, a sea-green, the intensity of which
may be easily changed or modified. The white
ground for fpainting in distem er is generally
composed o Bougival white white marl), or
white of Troyes (chalk), or Spanish white (pure
clay); but for varnish or oil painting, it is sought
for in a metallic oxide. In this case, ceruse or
pure white oxide of lead is employed.

GREEIV, SCHEELE’S.——Carbonate of pot-
ass, 32 parts; water, 325 parts. Dissolve, then
add arsenious ,acid, It parts. Next, sulphate of
copper, 32 parts; water, 480 parts. Dissolve
and filter each solution separately, then add the
first to the second, until it ceases to produce a
rich grass-green precipitate; collect and wash the
green powder in clean water.

GREEIV, CHROME.-—— Take Paris-white,
6% lbs.; sugar of lead, and blue vitriol, of each
3% lbs.; alum, 10% 025.; best soft Prussian blue
and chrome yellow, of each 3% lbs. Mix thor-
oughly while in fine powder, and add water, 1
gal., stirring well and let stand 3 or 4 hours.

REEZV, PARIS—Take unslacked lime of
the best quality slack it with hot water; then
take the finest part of the powder and add alum
water, as strong as can be made, sufficient to
form a thick aste, then color it with bfchromate
of potash and9 sulphate of copper until the color
suits your fancy, N. B.-—The sulphate of copper
gives the color a blue tinge—the bi-chromate of

PAINTING AND PAPERING. '

otash ayellow. Observe this and you will never

ail.

GREEN fir WA LLS.—Take 4 lbs. Roman
vitriol, and pour on it a tea-kettle full of boiling
water. When dissolved, add 2 lbs. pearlash,
and stir the mixture well with a stick until the
efi'ervescence ceases; then add % lb. pulverized

ellow arsenic, and stir the whole together. Lay
It on with a aint-brush ; and, if the wall has not
been painte before, two, or even three, coats
will be re uisite. If a pea-green is required, put
in less, i an apple-green, more of the yellow
arsenic. This paint does not cost the quarter of
oil-paint, and looks better.

ISINGLA SS SIZE.—-This may also be pre-
pared in the manner above directed for the glue,

y increasing the proportion of the water for
dissolving it, and the same holds good of parch-
ment size. A better sort of the common size
may be likewise made by treating. cuttings of
glovers.’ leather in the, same manner...

KA‘LSOJIING. —«» The rough; unfinished ap-
pearance of a white or yellow washed. wall is not:
its most disagreeable peculiarity. It perpetually
gives off its dirt, and its own fabric in powder, to
any one who brushes it with. his garments, or
who hangs his clothes against it. The superior
smoothness and glaze of a good kalsomined wall
is a great improvement to the stylegof the interior
of a house; and if well made, such a, surface is
suitable to the best rooms of'a good' house; and

is so cheap as to be within the means of the _

poorest. It requires care and judgment in the
selection of the not expensive materials, and
abtliye all, capability and skill in applyingit to the
wa .

The plaster is made of‘Paris white, 3. fine pow-
der produced by the pulverization and elutriation
of common chalk, mixed with fine, clear white
glue, dissolved in water. The Paris white costs
about three cents a pound, but the wandering
operatives who apply for jobs ask a much higher
price for it.

The process should be commenced by soaking
{our ounces of glue in a quart of warm water for
twenty or twenty-four hours; then a pint of
water should be added ; and the vessel (of tin or
other thin metal) should be placed in a kettle
of hot water over a fire, the glue being agitated
till it is thoroughly dissolved and the solution
quite clear. Put five or six pounds of powdered
Paris white into a large bucket, and add hot
water sufficient for the mixture to be of the con-
Sistency of cream. Then mix the glue water
with it, stir it well, and paint the walls with the
mixture with the usual whitewash brush.

It. is of the utmost importance that the kal-
somining mixture be spread very smoothly, and
to secure this, a little hot water must be added,
If the stuff he too thick for easy and level appli.
cation. The quantities given above are sufficient

for two coats on a large room, say one eighteen ,

feet square; and for good work two coats. should
always be applied. A little care in manipulatiOn.
Will produce by kalsomining a neat and hand-
some efl‘ect, even in the hands of the most in-
experienced operator.

KILLING GREASE.—Old work is always
more or less greasy and smoky. Wash over the
smoky or greasy parts with nitre, or with very
thin lime whitewash. Soda will do, but lime is
the best and cheapest.

KILLING KNOTS. — Glue size and red

257

lead. Gum shellac dissolved in alcohol, and
mixed with red lead. Gutta percha dissolved in
ether. But through all or any of these will the
pitch of the knot exude it exposed to the sun.
Perhaps the very best method is, to size the knot
with oil size, and then lay a leaf of gold or silver
on it. In a very choice piece of work. a hot iron
may be held over the knot till a good portion of /
the pitch has come out and been scraped off,
when the two coats of the leaf will be sure to
keep out both the pitch and any discoloration.

LA CQ UERS. —- I. Deep Golden Lacguer. —-
Seed—lac, 3 02s.; turmeric, I oz. ; dragon’s-blood,
% oz. ; alcohol, I pint. Digest for a week,
shaking frequently; then decant and filter. -
2. Golden Lacquer.—Turmeric, I 1b.; gamboge,
1% 025.; gum sandarac, 3% lbs.; shellac, % 1b.,
(all in powder;) rectified alcohol, 2 gallons..
Dissolve, strain, and add 1 pint. of turpentine-
varnish.—3, RedJacguer..— Spanish; annotto,. '
‘lbs.; dragonis-blood', It lb.;, gum sandarac, 314,
’l'bs.; rectified; alcohol, 2 gallOns; turpentine var-
»nish, I: quart. Dissolve and mix, as in No. 2.
’—4. Pale“ Bream Laryuer. -— Gamboge, (cut
,small,) I 02.; cape aloes, (do.,) 3 025.; pale
shellac, I 1b.; rectified alcohol, 2 gallons. Dis-
solve and mix, as in N o. 2.-— 5. Another Brazen
Lacquer. —- Seed~lac, dragon’s-blood, annotto,
and gamboge, each, 4 025.; saffron, I 02.; recti—
‘fied alcohol, Io pints. Dissolve, etc., as in
. N o. 2.

As these lacquers are often wanted of different
shades of color, it is well to keep on hand a con-.
centrated solution of each coloring ingredient, so.
that it may be added at any time to produce the.-
desired tint.

LA CQUER, COLORLESS. ——-Dissolve 2%'
ounces of shellac in I pint of rectified spirits of
wine; boil for a few minutes with 5 ounces 0ft
well-burned and recently heated animal charcoali.
A small portion of the solution should then be-
filtered, and if not colorless, more charcoal must.
be added. When all color is removed, press the-
liquid through a piece of silk, and afterward filter
through fine blotting paper.

LAMPBLA CK, To make. -—-Suspend‘ over a.
lamp a funnel of tin plate, having-above it a pipe;
to convey from the apartment the smoke which:
escapes from the lamp. Large mushrooms, of a
very black, carbonaceous matter, and exceedingly
light, will be formed at thevsummit of the cone.
This carbonaceous part is carried to.- such a state-
of division as cannot be given to any other matter,.
by grinding it on a piece of‘porpliyry.

This black goes a. great way in every kind'of.
painting. It may be- rendered drier by calcina-n
tion in close vessels. <

The funnel: ought to be united to the pipe,,
which conve 5 off the smoke, by means of wire,
because sol er wouldvbe melted by the flame of
‘ythelamp.

, LIME WATER—Equal parts of lime water
and linseed oil, which will mix if well shaken,.
when, united with any body matter, particularly
lead, firm a.- solid.and almost imperishable ces-
ment, which, fer-priming and second coatih'g,,
or even the last coat,.i's far superior to oil paint;
and the painterrwhorsupposed he was cheating-
his employer, was actually benefiting him. The
color, however, works badly, as it is thick, light,
and creamy, and harder-to spread; and if fifty

 

er cent. is saved in the oil, thirty per cent. is
ost in time. and.ten.per, cent. inthe extra quan-

1?

258

DICTIONARY OFEVERKDA Y WANTS.

 

tity used; so, after all, there is not much saved
in its use.

LINSEED 011., T o Heath—To bleach lin-
seed oil expose the oil to the rays of the sun in
glass bottles, and it very soon becomes white
and clear, with a deposit of the im ure matters
at the bottom. Some persons lter the oil
through animal charcoal. Another good method
is to heat the oil in a wooden vessel by means
of a steam pipe, having first added to each gallon
about one pound of “filtering owder”, made by
drying pure clay of fuller’s cart by a gentle heat,
and grinding it to powder. The oil must then
be filtered through bags made of Canton flannel
or felt. Bags are now made from the latter ma-
terial for this purpose, without seam, by the
same process as that employed for hat bodies.

MADDER LAA'E. — Ground madder, I
pound; water, 8 pounds. Boil for fifteen minu-
tes, then add alum, 2 ounces. Dissolve and
strain, then precipitate the color, with a strained
solution of pearlash, added gradually; lastly,
collect and well wash the powder. The lake
thrown down on the first addition of the potash
is of the finest quality, and each successive por-
tion decreases in value.

MAHOGANY, T o Imitatt.—The surface of
any close grained wood is planed smooth, and
then rubbed with a solution of nitrous acid. Next
apply with a soft brush a mixture of one ounce
of dragon’s blood dissolved in a pint of alcohol
and with the addition of a third of an ounce of
carbonate of soda. When the polish diminishes
in brilliancy, it may be restored by the use of a
little cold drawn linseed oil.

111/1117 OGAN Y C OLOR farW’ood.—Logwood,
M0 ounces, is boiled down half with a pint of
water, then strained, and the filtrate mixed with
half an ounce of chloride of barium. Most woods
employed for furniture may be stained a close
imitation of mahogany, varying iii depth with the
length of immersion. An oak color results when
the bath is diluted with rain water.

MARBLES, To Imitate.—-Paint the ground-
work, and when dry and rubbed down, dampen
the whole surface with boiled oil, rubbed on with
a cloth. For the light marbles, however, some
prefer to work the grain in the ground color
while wet.

MARBLES, Gray and Wilma—This is very
simple, though it requires some skill to do it
nicely. Paint with white or lead color, and vein
and mottle with black and slate color, in the wet
paint, and blend it all down softly with a paint

rush.

M4 RBLE, Italian. — Toolr. Camel’s hair
pencils, blender, and sponge—Ground. Black.
r- Grain Color. Gold tint, for bright veins.
Burnt sienna, white and yellow ochre, fluid, oil,
and turpentine.

Scramble out, in patches, with thin white lead,
with a sponge; blend; then, with the hair pencil,
trace in the larger dark veins with burnt sienna,
then with yellow ochre, and lastly with the gold
tint, running the lines over each other, yet all
having the same general direction. It will be
seen, from the specimens, that these veins are
series of irregular loopholes and patches of light,
crossed and connected b sharp, crinkled, and
mgular lines, the whiter lmes being the sharpest.

When veined and dry, glaze with very thin
tsphaltum, in atches, to give it depth. Then
Jamish, and, i desired, polish. '

 

011., DR YING.—A good drying linseed oil,
prepared without the usual process of boiling.
Mix with old linseed oil, the older you can get it
the better, .2 per cent. of its weight of manganese
borate (this salt is readily prepared by precipi-
tating a solution of sulphate of manganese with
a solution of borax, wash the precipitate, and dry
it either at the ordinary temperature of the air or
at 100°), and heat this mixture on a water-bath,
or, if you have to work with large quantities,
with a steam-bath to 100°, or at most 110°; you
thus obtain a very excellent, light-colored, rap-
idly-drying oil; by keeping the mixture stirred,
that is to say, by always exposing fresh portions
to air, the drying property of the oil is greatly
promoted. The rapidity of the drying of the oil
after it has been mixed with paint, on surfaces
besmeared therewith, does not simply depend
upon the drying property of the oil, but, in a
very great measure, upon the state of the atmos-
phere—viz., whether dry or moist, hot or cold
——the direct action of sunlight, and the state of
the surfaces on which the paint is brought.
Really genuine boiled linseed oil, if well prepa-
red, leaves nothing to be desired as regards ra-
pidity of drying, but it is retarded by various
substances which are added in practice, among
which, especially, oil of turpentine is injurious.

01L, f‘umz’tura—Take linseed oil, put it into
a glazed pipkin with as much alkanet root as it
will cover. Let it boil gently, and it will become
of a strong red color; when cool, it will be fit
for use.

01L, (Prepared) Far Carm'age eta—To I gal-
lon linseed oil add 2 lbs. gum shellac; litharge,
% 1b.; red lead, % 1b.; umber, I 02. Boil slowly
as usual until the gums are dissolved; grind
your paints in this (any color), and reduce with
turpentine. Yellow ochre is used in floor painting.

PAIZVTING.—The value of paints prepared
from oxides of iron is very generally overlooked
by architects. These aints some men of ex-
perience pronounce to e superior to those pre-
pared from the oxides of lead; at any rate, they
answer equally well, and the cost is considerably
less. But I propose to allude to the value of
these paints, especially for use upon iron. It has
been acknowledged for years that the oxides of
lead, or copper, if put upon iron, will eat into it,
and promote corrosion, and yet how frequentl
do we meet with the requirement that iron-worl’;
shall have a coat of red-lead before leaving the
foundry: a worse provision could hardly be made,
unless it be to specify verdigris, a preparation
from copper; this also is sometimes used, though
it eats holes into the iron in a very short time.
Very shortly after iron-work is painted, the iron
will be observed corroded, and the remark be
upon every body’s tongue, "This ought not to
be going so soon, ought not to want painting so
soon.” The fact is, lead has been put upon it,
and nothing else could be expected. The reason
red or white lead causes metal to corrode so
quickly is explained thus: directly the air gets
to the metal, not onl does natural corroston take

lace, but a chemica action sets in between the
ead and the iron, and increases the corrosion.
N o harm can result from painting iron with red
or white lead, so long as the oxygen of the air,
or water, does not get to the metal; but as it 15
almost sure to do so, it is best not to run the
risk. The same quantity of paint, made from
the oxide of iron, will cover a surface of twtce

PAINTING AND PAPERING.

the area as that of paint prepared from lead,
though the price is much less. Aqua fortis, one
of the strongest acids, if poured upon red or
white lead, will fuse it instantly, but has no effect
upon paint prepared ffiam the oxide_ of iron.
With regard to the numerous anti-corrosrve paints
in existence, I may say, in one word, it is of .no
use trying to cheat nature ; anti-corrosxve
paints will not answer the purpose their names
lmply: all paints must yield eventually to the
action of the oxygen, and the work be repainted,
and for many reasons it is well that all work
should be repainted at proper intervals. All that
can be done to attain the objects of such paints is
to so pick and form the stufi‘ as to reduce the
ower of the elements to affect it to a minimum.
his is found best secured when the composition
forming the paint is granular, not so finely pow-
dered as ordinarily. The finer the powder of the
mixture, the greater the tendency for air-holes to
form, as the paint is being laid on; paint that is
more gritty, or granular, affords a better oppor-
tunity for the air to escape, and therefore reduces
the liability of corrosion to the utmost limit. The
coating of oil is the best preservative, and not the
paint mixtures ; and therefore those mixtures
which, like lamp-black, go a long way in mixing
with oil, answer better than those that require
more of the mixture to form the paint. For cover-
ing urinals or other work exposed to the influence
of strong acid, black varnish is the best article to
use; it should be frequently applied, and is in-
expensive. Woodwork before painting ought to
be well soaked with good priming, principally
turpentine; this keeps damp out of the wood;
a coat of paint has not the same power, as it
forms a skin on the wood, instead of soaking into
it. The priming should pass over all the wood-
work, where ex osed ; otherwise damp may come
into contact wit the portion not primed, and it
will find its way down the wood, and cause
blisters in the paint, where we have thought them
unlikely; blistering is often a result of insufficient
priming. Painters, as a rule, neglect to prime
the tops of outside doors; damp gets down the
wood, and blistering results. Knots will some-
times show through paint-work, and lead to the
inference that no knotting has been used, where-
as the effect may be merely the result of using
inferior stuff. It is of great importance that knot-
ting of good quality be used; it may be purchas-
ed at half the cost of the well known patent knot-
ting, but will answer no purpose. The best
driers are repared from sugar of lead; the
lighter the (iiiers the better their quality. The
quantity of driers required depends upon the
time of the year the paint is used, and the charac-
ter of the oil. There is a great deal of bad oil in
use now, distilled, or by other means prepared
from resin; this will not dry properly, do what
you will with it, and it should be condemned for
paint-work at once. It does not cost half so
much as linseed oil, and there is, therefore, at all
times danger of it getting into our work. When
fresh, and sometimes when of long standing, it
may be killed by an application of petroleum spirit,
or potash; but generally, when this oil proves to
be in the paint, the best course is to scra e the
whole off with salamancas, or hot irons. in the
usual way. No oil will answer so well as linseed
011, well boiled or raw, when there is not the ne-
cessrty for so much driers; raw oil may be used
summer weather, and should always be used

 

359

for white paints, as the boiled oil discolors them;
driers in this latter case must be added. Often
when we specify the best copal varnish, we get
nothing but common oak, though the difference
in cost may be from seven shillings to twenty-
one per gallon. The best proceeding for the
architect is to price the varnis , and take special
means for obtaining it. For ordinary purposes,
where we usually specify common oak varnish,
copal varnish diluted with oil answers better,
and in practice is often adopted.

PAINTING, Rulerfbrr—I. Let the ground-
work be carefully prepared and dry.—2. See that
the colors are well ground and duly mixed—3.
Do not mix much more, nor any less paint than
you think will be necessary for the present work.
—4. Keep the paint well mixed before using.—
5. See that the paint is neither too thick to work
well, nor too thin to cover properly, and apply it
evenly.-—6. Do not apply a succeeding coat be-
fore the previous one is dry.—7. Do not use a
lighter color over a darken—8. Do not add driers
to colors long before using—9. Use just as little
driers as will do the work—Io. Do not over-
charge the brush with paint—I I . Begin with the
highest part of your work and proceed downward.

PA IIVT IN G Outs-Me Home:.-—-Repeated ex-
periments prove that paint applied between No-
vember and March, will last twice as long as
that applied in warm weather. The reason is
that in cold weather the component parts of the
paint form a hard substance on the surface; al-
most as hard as glass ; but in warm weather the
oil penetrates the boards and the paint wears off.

PAINTS, To Mix-—In mixing paints, ob-
serve, that for out-door work you must use prin-
cipally, or wholly, boiled oil, unless it is for the
decorative parts of houses, etc., then mix as for
in-door work.

For in-door work use linseed oil, turpentine,(
and a little dryers, observing that the less oil,’
the less will be the gloss, and that fonflatted
white, etc., the color being ground in oil, will
scarcely require any further addition of that ar-
ticle, as the object is to have it dull.

PAINT, Fltxiéle. — Yellow soa cut into
slices, 1% lbs.; boiling water, I gal .; dissolve
and mix while hot with oil paint, I% cwt. Used
to paint canvass.

PAINT (Cheap), fir cher, eta—I. Take a
bushel of well burnt lime, white and unslacked;
20 pounds of Spanish whiting, 17 pounds of rock
salt, and 12 ounds of brown sugar. Slake the
lime and sift out any coarse lumps and mix it
into a good whitewash with about 40 gallons of
water, and then add the other ingredients, and
stir the whole together thoroughly, and put on
two or three coats with a common brush. This
is a cheap paint. Five dollars’ worth ought to
make the building look a hundred dollars’ worth
better. This makes a coat that does not wash
off, or easily rub off, and it looks well, while it
will go far to preserve the wood. It is, there-
fore, especially adapted to the outside of build-
ings that are exposed to the weather. Three
coats are needed on brick and two on wood. It
you want to geta fine cream color, add three
pounds of yellow ochre to the above. If you pre—

er a fawn color, add four pounds of umber, one
pound of Indian red, and one pound of lamp-
lack. If you want a gray or stone color, add
four pounds of raw umber and two pounds of
lamp-black. This will be more durable than

26o

DICTIONARY OF E Vim Y—DA Y WANTS.

 

common whitewash. — 2. Take freshly-burned
unslaked lime and reduce it to powder. To one
peck or one bushel of this add the same quantity
of fine white sand or fine coal ashes, and twice as
much fresh wood ashes, all these being sifted
through a fine sieve. They should then be thor-
oughly mixed together while dry. Afterwards
mix them with as much common linseed oil as
will make the whole thin enough to work freely
with a painter’s brush. This will make a paint of
light gray stone color, nearly white. To make
it fawn or drab, add yellow ochre and Indian red;
if drab is desired, add, burnt umber, Indian red,
and a little black; if dark stone color, add lamp-
black; or if brown stone, then add Spanish brown.
All these colors should, of course, be first mixed
in oil and then added. This paint is much cheaper
than common oil paint. It is equally well suited
to wood, brick, or stone. It is better to apply
it in two coats; the first thin, the second thick.

PAINT, MILK: for Barns, eta—Mix water
lime with skim-milk, to a proper consistence to
apply with a brush, and it is ready to use. It
will adhere well to wood, whether smooth or
rough, to brick, mortar or stone, where oil has
not been used, (in which case it cleaves to some
extent,) and forms a very hard substance, as
durable as the best oil paint. It is too cheap to
estimate, and any one can put it on who can'use
a brush.

PAINT, Petroleum ran—This can be used to
great advantage on a farm as a preserver- of
wood. It is not properly a paint. N o coloring
matter should ever be mixed with it. Ordinary lin-
seed-oil paint preserves wood by forming a coat
that excludes the atmosphere from the pores.
Petroleum penetrates the wood and excludes the
air by filling up the pores.

Old barns from which the paint is worn off will
be much improved by a liberal coat of petroleum.
It can be put on with a whitewash brush. The
point is to get on as much as the wood will ab-
sorb. It is better to go over the work rapidly
and then the next day go over it again. For
shingle roofs, new or old, nothing is better than
petroleum. In making a new roof we would dip
the shingles by the bunch in petroleum, until
they were saturated, before putting them on.
This would save the expense of applying it on
the roof with a brush. ,

The sills and timbers of barns and other build-
ings, in the parts mostliable to decay, should be
treated with petroleum. A good way to do this
is to bore a hole with an auger into the stick of
timber, and fill it with the oil, and as it is absorb-
ed, add more. The hole should afterwards be
plugged up. The ends of all the timber should
also be washed over repeatedly with petroleum
before being put into the building. In this way
soft maple, black ash, and bass wood may be
made durable timber, and as useful as oak when
strength is not required.

PAIJVT SKY/VS—Dissolve sal-soda, % 1b.,
in rain-water, I gal. The skins that dry upon
the top of paint, which has been left standing
for any length of time, may be made fit for use
again by covering them with the sal-soda-water
and soaking them therein for a couple of days; then
heat them, adding oil to reduce the mixture to a
proper consistence for painting, and straining.
Painters who are doing extensive business will
save many dollars yearly by this simple process.

PAINT (Oil), To Reduce will; Water.--Gum

 

shellac, I 1b.; sal-soda, % 1b.; water, 3 parts;‘
boil all together in a kettle, stirring till dissolv-
ed. If it does not all dissolve, add a little more
sal-soda; when cool, bottle for use; mix up 2
quarts of oil paint as usual, any color desired,
using no turpentine, put 1 pint of the gum
shellac mixture with the oil paint when it be-
comes thick; it can then be reduced with water-
to a proper thickness to lay on with a brush.
PAPER HAN GIN G.-——The first thing to be
thought of is the selection of paper hangings.
According to the taste or judgment with which
the pattern is chosen, so will the appearance of
the room, when prepared, be agreeable or dis-
pleasing. Large patterns should, of course, be
only used in large rooms. Dark-tinted papers are
most suitable for light rooms, and light papers
for dark rooms ; many a dingy or gloomy apart-
ment may be made to wear a cheerful aspect by
attention to this particular. Stripes, whether on
a lady’s dress, or on the walls of a room, always
give the effect of hight ; consequently a low room
is improved by being hung with a striped paper.
The effect is produced by a wavy stripe as well
as a straight one, and, as curved lines are the
most graceful, they should generally be prefer-
red. Any pattern with lines crossed so as to
form a square, is unsuitable for alow room ; but
with the lines made sloping or diagonal, there is
not the same objection. A diamond trellis pat-
tern, with a small plant creeping over it, looks
well in a small summer parlor. For a common
sitting-room, a small geometrical pattern is very
suitable; being well covered, it does not show
accidental stains or bruises, and, in the constant

_repetition of the design, there is no one, object to

attract the eye more than another. These are
sometimes called Elizabethan patterns; they are
much used for staircases, halls, and passages,
but they are not to be chosen at random. Ac-
cording to the hight and dimensions of the pas-
sage or staircase, such should be the pattern.
A large pattern on a narrow staircase, and in a
passage not more than eight feet in hight, has a
very heavy and disagreeable effect. A light gray,
or yellow marble, divided into blocks. by thin
linés, and varnished, will be found suitable for
most passages, if care be taken to adapt the size
of the blocks to the place where they are to ap-
pear. A size that would look well in a hall
twenty feet wide, would be altogether too large
in one of only four or six feet. Many persons
must have noticed, in their visits of business or
pleasure, that some houses present a cheerful
aspect as soon as the door is opened, while others
look so dull that they make one low-spirited upon
entering them. The difference is caused by the
good or bad taste with which they have been
papered and painted. A safe rule with regard
to paper-hangings, is to choose nothing that
looks extravagant or unnatural. Regard should
be had to the uses of an apartment; :1 drawing-
room should be light and cheerful; a parlor
should look warm and comfortable without being
gloomy; bedroom papers should be cool and
quiet, and generally of a small pattern, and of
such colors as harmonize with bed-furniture and
other fittings. It is worth while to consider the
sort of pictures to be hung on a wall; gilt frames
show best on adark ground, and dark frames on a
light ground; taking care however to avoid violent
contrasts. Heavy borders are seldom used now;
they make a. room low, without being ornamental.

PAINTING AND PAPERING. _

26:

 

The paper being Purchased, the walls should
next be looked to, in order to be sure that they
are in proper condition to hold the paper. A
new unwhitewashed wall will absorb the paste so
rapidl that, before drying, there will be left too
little ody of paste on the surface to hold the
paper. A coating of good glue size, made by
dissolving a half a pound of glue in a gallon of
water, or a coating of good paste, ut on and
allowed to dry before the paper is ung, will
provide for this difficulty.

If the wall has already been papered it should
be removed. Many lives have been lost from
the laziness or ignorance of paper-hangers, who
have laid on one aper above another, instead of
tearing off the old) one before hanging the new.
There was a very handsome house near one of
our provincial towns which could never keep its
tenants, and at last stood em ty and became
worthless, because a detestable ever seized upon
every family that lived in it. A ready-witted ob-
server promised the owner to find out the cause.
He traced the mischief to one room, and present-
ly conjectured what was the matter there. He
let a slip of glass into the wall, and found it the
next day dimmed with a foetid condensed vapor.
He tore down a strip of paper, and found abund-
ant cause for any amount of fever. For genera-
tions the walls had been papered afresh, without
the removal of anything underneath. And there
was the putrid size of old paper inches deep! A
thorough clearance, and scraping, and cleaning,
put an end to the fever, and restored the value
of the house.

If the wall be whitewashed, it should be
scratched with a stiff brush, to remove every ar-
ticle of loose lime from the surface; after w ich
it should be thoroughly swept down with a
broom, and coated with the glue size or thin paste.

A long table of thin boards cleated together
and placed on wooden horses, such as are used
b carpenters, a pair of sharp shears—with long
b ades if possible—a whitewash brush, a pail for
paste, and a yard of cotton cloth, are the imple-
ments required. The table or board platform
should be level on itsupper surface to facilitate
the distribution of the paste. The latter should
be free from lumps, and should be laid on as
evenly as possible. It should be made of good
sweet rye or wheat flour, beaten smooth in cold
water before boiling, and should not be allowed
to boil more than a minute or two, but should be
raised to the boiling point slowly, being con-
tinually stirred till it is taken from the fire.

Inexpert hands often find difficulty in making
the patterns match in the juxtaposed pieces. No
general directions can be given for this, but a
little study at the outset will often save cutting
to waste, and other difficulties. In this matter,
as in others, it is wise to “first be sure you are
right, then go ahead.” As soon as the proper
way to cut the paper is decided upon, a whole
roll, or more, may be cut at once, and the pieces
laid, printed side downwards, upon the table,
weights being placed upon the ends to prevent
curling. The paste should then be applied to
the back of the uppermost piece, as expeditiously
as possible, as the longer the time employed in
this part of the operation, the more tender will
the paper get, and the more difficult it will be
to lay it properly.

The upper end of the iece should then be
taken by the corners, and t e operator, stepping

 

upon a bench or step-ladder, should barely stick
the piece at the top, and in such a manner that
the edge shall coincide with the piece previously
hung; this can be done by sighting down the
trimmed edge of the piece, while it is held in the
hands. The cloth should now be held in a loose
bunch, and the paper smoothed with it from top
to bottom, care being taken to work out all air
from under the paper, which, if not thoroughly
done, will give it a very unsightly blistered ap-
pearance.

If the wall be uneven or crooked, as is often
the case in old houses, it will be difficult to avoid
wrinkles, but they can be mostly got rid of, by
cutting the paper and allowing the cut edges to
lap over each other, in places where there would
otherwise be a wrinkle.

By following these directions the most inex-
perienced will be able to do a reasonably tidy
piece of work, but of course much skill is only
secured by ractice.

PAPER [{AN GIN G, Improved Paste/271’.—
A new form of paste for attaching paper hangings
to walls, and one which, besides possessing the
merit of cheapness, has the advantage of prevent-
ing the paper from separating or peeling off, is
prepared by‘ first softening I pounds of finely
powdered bole in water, and then draining off the
surplus water from the mass. One and a quarter
pounds of glue are next to be boiled into glue
water, and the bole and two pounds of gy sum
are then stirred in, and the whole mass orced
through a sieve by means of a brush. This is
afterwards diluted with water to the condition of
a thin paste or dressing, when it is ready for use.
This paste is not only much cheaper than the or-
dinary flour paste, but it has the advantage of
adhering better to whitewashed surfaces, espe-
cially to walls that have been coated over several
times, and from which the coating has not been
carefully removed. In some cases it is advisable,
when putting fine paper on old walls, to coat
them by means of this paste with a ground aper,
and to apply the paper hanging itself to tlllS with
the ordinary paste.

POLISH Frenc/z.—-—Gum sandarach, fourteen
ounces and two drachms; gum mastic in drops,
seven ounces and one drachm; shellac (the yel-
lower the better), fourteen ounces and two
drachms; alcohol. of 0.8295 sp. gr. three quarts
one pint.

Pound the resinous gums, and effect their so-
lution by continued agitation, without the aid of
heat.

If the woods are porous, seven ounces and,
one drachm of Venice turpentine.

If also an equal weight of ground glass with
the gums be added, the solution will be more
quickly made, and otherwise benefited by it. Be-
fore using, the wood should be made to imbibe a.
little linseed oil, the excess of which should be!
removed by an old flannel.

The varnish should be applied by saturating a
piece of old soft coarse linen cloth, folded into a
sort of cushion, rubbing the wood softly at first,
turning the linen from time to time until nearly
dry. The linen should be saturated afresh, and
the rubbing continued until the pores of the wood
are completely filled.

Two or three coats are generally sufficient.
Do not rub hard. If the varnish become stick ,
apply a very little drop of olive oil uniforme
over the surface of the cushion.

262

DICTIONARY OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

The finishing rocess consists in pouring a
little pure alcoholpupon a clean piece of linen,
which is lightly rubbed over the varnished wood,
and as the linen and varnish dry, the wood is
rubbed more briskly, until it takes abeautiful
polish like a looking-glass.

The above may be relied upon as the orig-
inal and genuine French polish, it being in the

._ Dicfionfire T echnologique, an accurate French
twor .

. POLISHING WOOD CARVING.—Take a
.' piece of wadding, soft and pliable, and drop a few
,drops of white or transparent polish, or French
polish, according to the color of the wood. Now
wrap the wetted wadding up in a piece of old
linen, forming it into a pad; hold the pad by the
surplus linen; touch the pad with one or two
drops of linseed oil. Now pass the pad gently
over the parts to be polished, working it round
in small circles, occasionally re-wetting the wad.
dipg in polish, and the pad with a drop or so of
or .
pad to run over the wood easily without sticking,
therefore as little as possible should be used, as
it tends to deaden the polish to a certain extent.
Where a carving is to be polished after having
been varnished, the same process is necessary;
but it can only be applied to the plainer portions
of the work. Plain surfaces must be made per-
fectly smooth with sand-paper before polishing,
as every scratch or mark will show twice as badly
after the operation. When the polish is first rub-
bed on the wood, it is called the “bodying-in ;”
it will sink into the wood and not give much
glaze. It must, when dry, have another body
rubbed on, and a third generally finishes it; but
if not, the operations must be repEated. Just be-
fore the task is completed, greasy smears will
show themselves ; these will disappear by con-
tinuing the gentle rubbing without oiling the pad.
You should now be able to see your face in the

wood.

PR USSIAN BL UE, T uméull ’r. — Ferro-
cyanide of potassium, 10 ounces ; solution ter-
sulphate of Iron, I pint; water, 3 pints. Dissolve
the ferrocyanide of potassium in two parts of
water, and add the solution, gradually, to the
solution of tersulphate of iron previously diluted
with the remainder of the water, stirring the mix-
ture during the addition. Then filter the liquid
and wash the precipitate on the filter with boil-
ing water until the washings pass nearly taste-
less. Lastly, dry it, and rub it into fine powder.

PUMI CE STONE.—This is the lava of the
volcanoes, is found floating upon the surface of
the sea. It is a very useful article, which should
be used much more than it is for rubbing down
painted work.

PU T T Y, T 0 So ten w/zen Hard. —Break the
putty in lumps of t e size of a hen’s egg, add a
small portion of linseed oil, and water sufficient
to cover the putty; boil this in an iron vessel for
about ten minutes, and stir it when hot. The
oil will mix with the putty. Then pour the wa-
ter off, and it will be like fresh made. For re-
moving hard putty from a window-sash, take a
square piece of iron, make the same red hot, and
run it along the putty till it gets soft. The putty
will peel off without injuring the wood work.
Concentrated lye, made of lime and alkali will
affect the wood and make it rot quicker.

REDS—Reds have their bases in iron mostly,
and some have supposed that all reds are depend-

The object of the oil is merely to cause the

 

ent upon the presence of iron for their color. —
Carmine is kaolin, or China clay, colored with
cochineal, and being prepared with much difficul-
ty, it is ver expensive. A common article is
composed o alum and cream of tartar, colored
with cochineal, This color fades rapidly on ex-
posure to the sun, and is of little use in out-door
work. It is a rich, transparent color. -—- Vermil-
ion is composed of sulphur and quicksilver. The
first quality, at present, comes from France, it
being difficult to get Chinese vermilion that is
free from pulverized glass; in fact, the greater
portion 0 the Chinese vermilion now in the
market is almost worthless in consequence of
this adulteration. The English and American
vermilions are cheaper, and inferior in color
rather than quantity—672711771! Red, or American
vermilion, as it is sometimes called, though not
so fine a color when first used, is much cheaper
than vermilion, being one fifth the price; it
stands exposure much better, retaining its hue
long after the best Chinese has turned brown.
For this reason it is much better adapted to all
out-door painting. Its composition is saltpetre
and chrome yellow, produced by a process of
heating and washing. -——1\’ore Pink is nothing
more than whiting, tinctured with Brazil wood,
and is of little service in out-door painting, as
it immediately fades on exposure to light. It is
cheap, and being transparent, does very well for
a glaze for chairs or other furniture—Red Lead,
or red oxide of lead, is of more use in boiling in
oil to make it dry than anything else. It is not
much used among painters on account of its fa-
ding quality, though it is used in some compound
mixtures. With chrome yellow, it makes a rich
ground for mahogany. It is a durable color,
and is therefore preferred by wheelwrights for
painting wagons.—]l[addcr Lake is the only lake
that does not fade. A fine, transparent glaze
for beautiful and delicate work, but too expensive
for common work. Its composition is alum and
soda, or silicate of potash, or kaolin colored with
madder. — Venetian Red is an earth, found
in various parts of the world. It is the principal
body used for all common purposes.

RED LEAD, How [Mada —A quantity of
lead is placed on the bed of a reverberatory fur-
nace of a peculiar construction, and exposed to a
high temperature, while the metal is constantly
agitated by striking it upon the surface with a
rake. A combination takes place between the
lead and the oxygen of the atmosphere, and the
oxide of lead thus formed is removed by the rake
to the back of the furnace. These operations
are continued during a period of twelve hours,
at the expiration of which time any metallic lead
which may have failed to become oxidized
is removed, and the remaining oxide is exposed,
by constant turning, to the action of the air, and,
at the termination of a further period of twelve
hours, is withdrawn from the furnace. The sub-
stance thus produced, which is called litharge, is
now ground to an impalpable powder with water,
and flows into a series of tubs, where it is kept
in a state of agitation by a revolving stirrer fur-
nished with arms. The particles of metal which
have escaped oxidation, having a greater specific
gravity in them than the oxide, remain in the
stirring tubs, while the oxide of lead passes on
into another series of tubs, where it subsides from
the water. The supernatant water is afterward

removed by a syphon, and the moist litharge

PAINTING AND PAPERING.

‘transferred to a reverberatory furnace, where it is
exposed to the combined action of a low temper-
ature and a current of air for a period of twenty-
four hours. During this process, the 11tharige
enters into combination thh a further quantity
of oxygen, and minium or red lead is produced.
The manufacture is completed by. passmg the
substance through a revolving cylinder of wrre
uze, to remove any lumps that may have been
fiilrmed, or any large particles of foreign matter
\with which it may have become intermixed during
lthe previous operations. ~
ROSE ”7000, T a Irm'tate.——B011 half a
pound logwood in three pints water, till the mix-
ture is of a very dark red; add half an ounce salt
of tartar. While boiling hot, stain your wood
with two or three coats, taking care that it nearly
dries between each; then, with a stiff, flat brush,
such as is used for graining, form streaks with
the following black stain: Boil one pound log-
Wood in four quarts water; add a double hand-
ful of walnut peel or shells; boil itup again, take
out the chips, add a pint best vinegar, and it Will
be fit for use ; apply while hot. All this, if care-
fully executed, will produce very nearly the ap-
pearance of dark rosewood.

RULES FOR PAINTERS.—I. Avoid spat-
tering, for it is unpleasant as well as dangerous
to be continually enveloped in robes of poisonous

aint.—2. Never attempt to eat or sleep without

rst washing the hands and face and rinsing the
mouth.-—~. Wash the whole surface of the body
at least once a week, with soft water.——4. Keep
the buckets, brushes, etc., clean, so that they
ma be handled without smearing the hands.—

. Every painter should wear overalls, or change
his clothing throughout once a week at least, in
the mean time thoroughly airing those he has
thrown off.—6. Keep the shops clean and well
ventilated—7. Never sleep in a paint-shop, nor
in a newly-painted room, not paint the walls of
a room with any of the metallic greens—8. Never
suffer the paint to accumulate upon the clothing,
nor upon the finger nails. —9. Never wash the
hands in turpentine, as it relaxes the muscles
and injures the joints. Any animal oil, or even
linseed oil, is better.—Io. Never drink water
that has stood any length of time in a paint-shop,
or in a newly-painted room.—II. Never use spi—
rituous liquors, especially when ailing from the
effect of paint, as it unites with the mineral salts
and tends to harden them, and causes inflamma—
tion of the parts where they concrete—12. Milk,
sweet oil, and the like, should be used freely, as
they tend to soften the accumulated poisons, and
carry them off. — I3. Vinegar and acid fruits,
used constantly, unite with the lead that may
be in the stomach, chemically changing it to the
acetate, or sugar of lead, which is by far the least
dangerous. Acetate of lead is scarcely recogniz-
ed, _in medical jurisprudence, as a poison.-—14.
Avoid breathing the dust when emptying papers
of dry colors—15. Make your smalts where there
is a current of air; and, while stirring, stand to
the windward, that you may not inhale the
smoke.

SIZE, GOLD.—Yellow ochre, 1 part; copal
varnish, 2 parts ; linseed oil, 3 parts; turpentine,
4 parts; boiled oil, 5 arts. Mix. The ochre
must be in the state 0 the finest powder, and
ground with a little of the oil before mixing.

SIZE, Bert.—-Raw oil, heated in a pan till it
gives out a black smoke. Set fire to it and let it

 

263

burn a few minutes. Extinguish it by covering
the pan over. Pour, while warm, into a bottle
containing pulverized red lead and litharge. Keep
in a warm place, slaking often, for two weeks,
then decant and bottle.

SIZE, Bronzing.—Asphaltum. boiled oil, and
turpentine, mixed in proportions to flow evenly.

SIZE, Imz'de.——Honey, diluted with water,
vinegar, or any liquor. Glue size, beer or ale,
white of egg, gum arabic, or any glutinous or al-
buminous substance may be used.

501. UBLE GLASS, in Paintings—Soluble
glass appears to furnish a means of applying cer-
tain colors to fresh wood, or clean iron, in a most
efficient manner, and at a very slight cost com-
pared with oil. It can also be used advantage-
ously for painting houses, basket ware, decora-
tions for theatres, etc., and is especially suitable
in the latter case, as it renders wood incombust-
ible to a certain extent, instead of increasing the
danger from fire, as with oil paint. Care must,
of course, be taken to use only such mineral
colors as are not decomposed by the glass, such
as ultrarnarine, chrome green, N uremburg green,
yellow and red earth ochre, green earth, terra de
sienna, etc. In coating paper with this paint a.
little glycerine may be added to prevent its break-
ing. Coralline, Ponceau and Vesuvine have also
been~ used to advantage in connection with 501-
uble glass.

STAIN (Black). for Wizard—Pour 2 qts. boil-
ing water over I oz. of powdered extract of log-
wood, and, when the solution is effected, I dr.
of yellow chromate of potash is added, and the
whole well stirred. It is then ready for use as
a wood-stain, or for writing—ink. When rubbed
on wood, it produces a pure black. Repeat with
two, three or four applications, till a deep black
is produced, which acquires the highest beauty
when polished or stained.

S T AIZV, Elma—I. Solution of sulphate of in-
digo is used hot, and while hot, a solution of
cream of tartar, 3 02., in water, I qt.—2. A solu-
tion of verditer is brushed over until the wood
appears a dark green, and then a hot solution is
applied of pearlash, 2 ozs., in boiling water, I

int.

S T AIIV, C/zerry.-—Take rain water, 3 qts.;
anotta, 4 025.; boil in a copper kettle until the
anotta is dissolved; then put in a piece of potash
the size of a common walnut, and keep it on the
fire about half an hour longer, and it is ready for
use. Bottle for keeping.

S TAIIV, Ebony—Take a solution of sulphate
of iron, and wash the wood over with it two or
three times: let it dry, and apply two or three
coats of a strong decoction of logwood ; wipe the
wood when dry with a sponge and water, and
polish with oil.

S TAIJV, Purple.—Logwood, I lb. ; Brazil
wood, 4 025.; water, I gallon; boil 3 hours,
brush it on while hot, and when dry, use a solu-
tion of pearlash, 1 drachm, in water, 1 quart.

STAIIV, Rafi—I. water, I gallon, Brazil
wood, I lb. ; pearlash, I 02.; boil for 3 hours,
brush it hot over the wood, and then, while wet,
brush the wood with a solution of alum, 2 ozs.,
in water, I quart.-—2. Light. Add to each gallon
of the last 2 025. more pearlash.—-3. Daaé. Log-
wood, 8 025.; water,-2 quarts; boil till of a dee
color, and add carbonate of potash, %oz.; brus
it hot over the wood.

S TAIIV, Rosewood. — Take equal parts of

264

DICTIONARY OF E VER Y-DA Y. WANTS:

 

I
logwood and redwood chips, and boil well in just
sufficient water to make a strong stain; apply it to
the furniture while hot, I or 2, or even 3 coats
may be put on, one directly after the other, ac-
cording to the depth of color desired.

S T AIZV, Yellow—I. Water, 1 gallon; French
berries, 1 1b.; alum, % 02.; boil for 2 hours, and
use it hot. —- 2. Logwood decoction without a
mordant.—3. Spirit of wine, I pint; turmeric, I
02.; digest 14 days, and strain.

STAIZV, Brig/z! Yellow. --—1. Brush over
with .the tincture of turmeric.-—-2. Warm the
work, and brush it over with weak aquafortis:
varnish or oil as usual.—-—3. A very small bit of
aloes put into the varnish will give a rich yellow
color to the wood.

STAleor FLOORS. —To strong lye of
wood-ashes add enough copperas for the required
oak shade. Put this on with a mop, and varnish
afterwards.

TIMBER, W'Izy it :fiaula’ fie painted—When
water is applied to the smooth surface of timber,
a thin layer of the wood will be raised above its
natural position by the expansion or swelling of
the particles near the surface. In colloquial
phrase, workmen say that when water is applied
to a smooth board, the grain of the timber will
be raised. Every successive wetting will raise
the grain more and more; and the water will
dissolve and wash away the soluble portions' with
which it comes in contact. As the surface dries,
the grain of the timber at the surface, having
been reduced in bulk, must necessarily shrink to
such an extent as to produce cracks. Now, if a
piece of oil-cloth be pasted over the surface, the
timber will be kept quite dry. Consequently,
the grain of the wood will not be subjected to
the alternate influences of wet and heat. As it
is not practicable to apply oil-cloth ready made,
a liquid or semi-liquid material is employed for
covering the surface, which will adhere firmly,
and serve the purpose of oil-cloth in excluding
water that would otherwise enter, to the injury
of the work. Metallic substances are painted to
prevent oxidation or rusting of the surfaces which
may be exposed to moisture.

It is of primary importance to make use of
such materials as will form over the surface a
smooth. and tenacious pellicle, impervious to
water. Any material that will not exclude water
sufficiently to prevent the expansion ofthe grain
of the timber, or the oxidation of metallic sub-
stances, must be comparatively --worthless for
paint. Linseed-oil possesses the property of dry-
ing when spread ona surface, and forming a te-
nacious covering, impervious to water. Spirits of
turpentine, benzine, benzole, and certain .kinds
of lubricating oil, all of .which are. frequently
used in preparing paint, will not form a covering
sufficiently tough and hard to resist theaction of
water; for which reason, the paint that is made
by employing these volatile materials will be
found comparatively worthless for outside work.
A pigment is mingled with the oil to prevent the
timber to which the paint is applied from absorb:
ing the oil. The design is not to saturate, the
\wood with oil, but simply to cover the surface
with a coating resembling a thin oil-cloth.

TIN TS, Alixing; —The first principle in miXe
i-ing tints is to take the body color, or that ingre-
._dient which predominates, and add t0.lt, gradu-
,~ally, the other colors. The principal ingredient
maybe thick, but me others must invariably be

 

thin, or the lumps will spread out under the
brush, leaving a streak of corresponding color.

In describing the manner of mixing tints, the
predominant color will be mentioned first, the
second next, and so on, as it would be impos-
sible to give the exact proportion of each color
used in any given tint. Thus, for instance,
violet is mostly red, the next in quantity blue,
and the least white, and so on. In this manner
the following table exhibits almost every tint
which the painter will be likely to require, leav-.'
ing to his taste the peculiar tone :—

T able qf Tints, and the Color: mummy to

product t/zem.

Gray, White Lead and Lampblack.
Buff, White and Yellow Ochre; Red.
Pearl, White, Black, Blue.
Orange, Yellow, Red.
Violet, Red, Blue, White.
Purple Violet, with the addition of Red and
White.
Gold, White Stone Ochre; Red.
Olive, Yellow, Blue, Black, White.
Chestnut, Red, Black, Yellow.
lesh, White, Yellow Ochre, Vermilion.
Limestone, White, Yellow Ochre, Black, Red.
Sandstone, White, Yellow Ochre, Black, Red.
Freestone, Red, Black, Yellow Ochre, White.
Fawn, White, Yellow, Red.
Chocolate, Raw Umber, Red, Black.
tab, White, Raw,and Burnt Umbers; or White,

Yellow Ochre, Red, Black.
Chrome Green, Black, Yellow, or Black

Bronze Green,
and Yellow, or Black and Green.

Pea Green, White and Chrome Green.
Rose, White, Madder Lake.
Copper, Red, Yellow, Black.
Lemon White, Yellow.
Snuff, Yellow, Vandyke Brawn.
Claret, Red, Umber, Black.
Dove, White, Vermilion, Blue, Yellow.
Pink, White, Vermilion, Lake.
Cream, White, Yellow.
Salmon, White, Yellow, Raw Umber, Red.
Straw, White, Chrome Yellow.
Peach Blossom, White, Red, Blue, Yellow.
i ac, White, with Violet.
Changeable, Red, Green, lightened with White.

Rmzarks.—Any of the positive colors are made
to any degree of lightness with white or yellow.

Colors for tints work best when mixed with
raw oil.

All tints must he graduated by the taste of
the artist, recollectingthat practice and experience
are great helps.

The finer the quality of the colors used, the
purer and more beautiful will be the tints.

All colors should be ground before mixing, as
the dry color does not stir in well.

(/1. T RA MA RINE . —A vitreous matter color-
ed by oxide of cobalt, gives a tone of color dif-
ferent from that of the prussiate of iron and in-
digo. It is employed for sky-blues. The case
is the same with blue verditer, a preparation
made from oxide of copper and lime. Both these
blues stand well in distemper, in varnish, and in
oil.

Saxon blue requires to be ground with drying
oil, and to be mixed with gallipot varnish. I
intended for oil painting, it is to .be mixed up
with resinous drying oil, which glves body to
this vitreous matter.

UL T RA MA RINE, A rtg'fln'al—Sulphm, 2
parts; dry carbonate of soda, I part. Put them
into a Hessian crucible, cover it up, and apply
heat until the mass fuses; then sprinkle mtoxtl
gradually a mixture of silicate of soda and alu-
minate of soda (the first c011ta1nmg_72 parts of
silica, the second, 70 parts of alumina); lastly,
calcine for 1 hour, and wash in pure water.

PAINTING AND PAPERING.

ULTRAMARINE, To know wlzen Adulter-
atezl.—As the price of ultramarine, which 15
already very high, may become more so on ac-
count of the difficulty of obtaining lapis lazuli, it
is of great importance that painters should be
able to detect adulteration. Ultramarine is ure
if, when brought to a red heat in a cruc1b e, it
stands that trial without changing its color; as
small quantities only are subjected to this test, a
comparison may be made, at very little expense,
with the part which has not been exposed to the
fire. If adulterated, it becomes blackish or paler.

This proof, however, may not always be con—
clusive. When ultramarine of the lowest quality
is mixed with azure, it exhibits no more body
than sand ground on porphyry would do; ultra-
marine treated with oil assumes a brown tint.

VARNISHIZVG. — All work before being
varnished, should be prepared with a dead sur-
face, either by mixing with turpentine or by rub-
bing down with pumice stone. In very finely
finished work, requiring a level surface, rub
down with solid pumice stone and water; where
only smoothness is necessary, rub with pulver-
ized pumice stone with water, using for a rubber
any woolen cloth, or felt, or buckskin—leefinrt
Coats should be spread on evenly, and well rub-
bed out. Two, or four, or six coats may be

'ven without rubbing; then, previous to the
fist coat, rub till the gloss is destroyed, after
which give it aheavy flowing coat.-'lee Flowing
Coat. Where work IS to be finished on a cheaper
plan, the rubbing need not be done. In this
case give two or three coats, well rubbed out,
and while the last coat is quite sticky, so as to
make the brush drag through a little toughly,
put on a heavy flowing coat of thick varnish—
put on so heavily that it will flow evenly of it-
self. This, after thoroughly dry, may be polish-
ed.—-Polir/zz'ng. Rub down with finely pulverized

umice stone till smooth and even; wash off.

hen rub with rotten stone and sweet oil. Clean
oil the oil, and polish with chamois leather.
Some use only the hand to finish with, which
is quite as good after being rubbed with rotten
stone and sweet oil. If the under coats of paint
are not thoroughly dry, the varnish will be apt
to crack.

VARNISIIING, Cleaning Pain! Previous
to.-—Provide a plate, with some of the best whit-
ing to be found in the market, and have ready
some clean warm water and a piece of flannel,
which dip into the water and squeeze nearly dry;
then take as much whiting as will adhere to it;
apply it to the painted surface, when a little rub.
bing will instantly remove any dirt or grease;
after which wash the part well with Clean water,
rubbing it dry with a soft cloth or Chamois.
Paint thus cleaned looks as well as when first
laid on, without any injury to the most delicate
colors. It is far better than cleaning it with
soap, and does not require more than half the
time usually employed in cleaning with that
article.

VARNISE], Manufacture qfi-The varnish
we shall more particularly describe is that made
by intimately mixing gum copal with linseed oil
and diluting the mixture with turpentine—the
preparation of which requires no small amount
of care and attention, and was formerly attended
With no little danger from fire. Copal is a resin
found exuding from the Rhus copallinum, a tree
growmg in several parts of America, and from

 

265

the Eloeocarpus copallifera, a tree found in the
East Indies; it is also imported from the coasts
of Guinea. The two latter kinds are generally
allowed to be the best, and are commonly known
as African.

The object to be obtained in the preparation of
varnish is to impart to it a quick-drying property,
retaining at the same time transparency and
elasticity. To secure these characteristics great
care is necessary, in melting the gum, in boiling
that and the oil together for the requisite time
and at the proper degree of heat, and in the com-
plete solution of the resinous matter employed.
To achieve these results a pure and limpid sample
of oil is generally chosen, which is placed in a
copper pan holding from 80 to 100 gallons, and
heat gradually applied till the scum rises, after
removing which the oil is allowed to boil for
about two hours, when it is dosed with calcined
magnesia in the proportion of an ounce to every
four gallons of oil, but added by degrees and
with occasional stirrings. This being completed,
the oil is again boiled briskly for about an hour,
and then, the furnace being drawn, allowed to
cool. When the temperature is sufficiently re-
duced, it is removed to leaden cisterns, where it
is stored till fit for use.

Under the old system of making varnish, the
gum pot and oil pot were open to the atmosphere
of the shopin which the operation is performed;
but the vapors arising during the rocessare now
either taken into the furnace sha t, or condensed
into liquid by suitable refrigerators. The modus
operandi is somewhat as follows. The oil being
placed in its boiler and approaching the requisite
degree of temperature—namely, that at which the
gum melts, the copal is placed in its copper,
about Io lb. being the usual quantity fused at a
time. In a few minutes it begins to melt, and
gives off unpleasant vapors. When thoroughl
melted and clear a portion of the oil is added:
and the mixture boiled and stirred till of the pro-
per consistency; it is then taken and emptied into
the boiling pot, from which the requisite quantity
of oil for the following charges of gum has been
previously withdrawn. The gum pot being
thoroughly cleansed, another portion of the gum
is placed in it and melted in a similar manner to
the first, and so on, till sufficient gum has been
fused for the quantity of oil prepared. The whole
is then placed on the furnace and boiled till a
scum rises and spreads gradually over the whole
surface, which then froths up rapidly in the same
way as boiling milk, and must be instantly re-
moved, when the scum being stirred down, the
dryers are added, a little at a time, and the boil-
ing continued till the mixture feels stringy to the
fingers. The boiling pot is then removed from
the fire, and when sufficiently cool, turpentine is
added till the desired consistency is attained,
when the varnish may be placed in the storing
tanks. Formerly a great waste of turpentine
took place by evaporation through mixing it
while the varnish was still too hot; but of late
years a vast improvement has been adopted
in this respect, and it has been practically de-
monstrated that not only is there no necessity
for “boiling” the oil and gum after incor oration,
but that the produce is equally good i the tur-
pentine be added just before the mixture becomes
too cold to permit of aperfect amalgamation.
In fact, it is now acknowledged that the oil need
not be raised to a higher temperature than that

266

DICTIONARY OF E VER Y—DA Y WANTS.

 

at which the gum employed fuses, and that when
the two are mixed the lowest possible degree of
heat which will insure their incorporation, is suf-
ficient to secure all the results desired. By this
method a large quantity of the turpentine form-
erly lost in evaporation is saved, and there is,
moreover, less risk of fire. It is indeed a moot
point whether it is absolutely necessary to add
Iturpentine in quantity at all, as even when the
loss during the preparation of the varnish is re-
duced to a minimum, a still further reduction oc-
curs whilst the varnish is ageing and clearing in
the storing tanks, and it is sometimes found ne-
cessary to thin it before it can be used.

To prevent the workmen being distressed by
the pungent odors of the melting gum, in mo-
dern varnish factories the boiling and gum pots
are placed close together, and by means of caps
and heads (provided with openings to facilitate
stirring,) the pots are connected with chimneys
which carry off all vapors into the smoke shaft,
or to the condensing tanks. A close fitting cover
is also provided for the boiling pot to extinguish
the flames in case the oil should take fire—a
great improvement on the old fashioned carpet,
which an assistant stood ready to throw over in
case of accident; while tramways are laid down
so that the boiling mixtures can be rapidly con-
veyed into the open air in the event of firing,
and for the purpose of cooling before the addition
of the turpentine.

VARNISHES, Care afl—As a rule all var-

nishes should be kept in a dry place (there may
be few exceptions), otherwise they are liable to
become tacky. It should also be observed that
,they should be applied in a dry place. Much,
indeed, depends upon the state of the weather
when they are employed—more than is easily
credited—and the work should be keptin a warm
place until thoroughly dry.

All varnishes in which spirits of wine is the
menstruum should be used in a warm place.

VAlt’NISII-BRUSIJES, Care of—Brushes
used for applying finishing varnishes should be
cared for with the utmost pains, as good work
depends much upon the good condition of the
brushes. A good way to keep them is to sus~
pend them by the handles in a covered can, keep-
ing the points at least half an inch from the bot
tom, and apart from each other. The can should
be filled with slow-drying varnish up to a line
about a sixteenth of an inch above the bristles or
hair. The can should then be kept in aclose
cupboard, or in a box fitted for the purpose. As
wiping a brush on a sharp edge of tin will gra-
dually split the bristles, cause them to curl back-
ward, and eventually ruin the brush, the top of
the can should have a wire soldered along the
edge of the tin turned over, in order to prevent
injury. Finishing brushes should not be cleans-
ed in turpentine, except in extreme cases. When
taken from the can, prepare them for use by
working them out in varnish, and before replac-
ing them cleanse the handles and binding with
tur entine.

3ARNISII, Amben—I. Amber, I 1b.; pale
boiled oil, IO 02.; turpentine, I pint. Render
the amber, placed in an iron pot, semi-liquid by
heat; then add the oil; mix, remove it from the
fire, and when cooled a little, stir in the turpen-
tine—2. To the amber, melted as above, add 2
025. of shellac, and proceed as before. This varn-
ish is rather dark, but remarkably tough. Th‘

 

first form is the best. It is used for the same
purposes as copal varnish, and forms an excellent
article for covering wood, or any other substance
not of a white or very pale color. It dries well,
and is very hard and durable.

VARNISH, (Blar/é)-Amfier.—Amber, I 1b.;
boiled oil, % pint; powdered asphaltum, 6 025.;
oil of turpentine, I pint. Melt the amber, as
before described, then add the asphaltum, pre-
viously mixed with the cold oil, and afterwards
heated very hot, mix well, remove the vessel
from the fire, and when cooled a little add the
turpentine, also made warm.

Each of the above varnishes should be reduce%
to a proper consistence with more turpentine 1
it be required. The last form produces the
beautiful black varnish used by the coachmakers.
Some manufacturers omit the whole or part of
the asphaltum, and use the same quantity of
clear black rosin instead, in which case the color
is brought up by lampblack reduced to an impal-
pable powder, or previously ground very fine
with a little boiled oil. The varnish made in this
way, lacks, however, that richness, brilliancy,
and depth of blackness imparted by asphaltum.

VAA’rVISIJ, Black. —This is quick drying,
and cheap for common purposes. such as iron
fences and other rough work. Black Pitch, 28
pounds, Asphaltum, from Tar, 28 pounds. Boil
eight or ten hours, then add 8 gallons boiled oil,
and gradually 10 pounds red lead, and 10 pounds
litharge. Boil for 3 hours longer, and add, when
lukewarm, enough turpentine to thin for working
freel .

T liis varnish will dry in a few minutes.

VA IVA/7511’, Blade CopaZ.—Lampblack, made
of burnt vine—twigs, or black of peach-stones.
The lampblack must be carefully washed and
afterwards dried. Washing carries off a great
many of its impurities.

VARIV'ISII, Black yaprm. — Burnt umber 8
02.; true asphaltum 3 or 4 02.; boiled linseed oil
I gallon; grind the umber with a little of the oil;
add it to the asphaltum, previously dissolved in a
small quantity of the oil by heat; mix, add the
remainder of the oil, boil, cool, and thin with a
sufficient quantity of oil of turpentine. Flexible.

VA ADVISE Camp/zon— Gum Copal, 4ounces;
oil lavender, 12 ounces; gum camphor, % ounce.
Heat the oil and camphor in a pan, stirring; then
add the copal in small quantities—When dissolv-
ed, stir and add turpentine almost in a boiling
state.

This is transparent, pliable, and durable.
For varnishing wire gauze, muslin, etc.

VAIt’zVISIJ, Caoutc/zauc. -— Digest 2 parts of
caoutchouc, cut in shreds or small pieces in 64
parts of rectified oil of turpentine; strain through
a linen cloth.

VA RNISIJ, Cabinet-makerr’.—— Very pale
shellac 5 lbs.; mastich 7 02.; alcohol, of 90 er
cent. , 5 or 6 pints; dissolve in the cold _with re-
quent stirring. Used for French polishing, etc.
It is always opaque. A similar varnish, made
with weaker spirit, is used by bookbmders to
varnish morocco leather book covers. '

VARIVISII, Meal). —The beautiful varnish
applied to Connecticut clockcases, wooden plcture-
frames, and other cheap objects, is in appearance
equal to the elaborate finish of the finest furniture,
such as pianos, etc. It is made by mixing two

ounds of copal varnish with half an ounce of
' seed-oil varnish. The mixture 15 shaken often

PAIN TIJVG AND PAPERING.

267

 

to mix it well, and is then placed on a warm spot.
The wood to be varnished is prepared With a
thin coat of glue-water, dried slowly, and rubbed
down with fine pumice-stone or something equiv‘
alent. In light-colored wood, a light pigment,
such as chalk, is added to the glue-water; in
dark wood, an equally dark pigment is added.
When ready, the articles are varnished with the
above mixture, and, after drying, rubbed with a
solution of wax in ether, thereby acquiring a
high polish.

VA RIVISII, Coacfimaéers’. -— The fine black
varnish of the coachmakers is said to be prepared
b melting 16 ounces of amber in an iron pot,
ddding to it half a pint of drying linseed-oil, boil—
ing hot, of powdered resin and asphaltum, 3
ounces each. When the materials are well uni-
ted, by stirring over the fire, they are to be re-
moved, and after cooling for some time, a pint of
warm oil of turpentine is to be introduced.

VARNZSH, Colorless.—-—Dissolve two ounces
and a half of shellac in a pint of rectified spirits
of wine; boil for a few minutes with five ounces
of well-burned and recently-heated animal char-
coal. A small portion of the solution should
then be filtered, and if not colorless, more char-
coal must be added. When all color is removed,
press the liquor through a piece of silk, and af-
terward filter through fine blotting-paper. This
kind of varnish should be used in a room of at

least sixty degrees Fahr., perfectly free from
dust. It dries in a few minutes, and is not lia-
ble afterward to chill or bloom. It is particu-
larly applicable to drawings and prints that have
been sized, and may be used for gildin .

VA RNISH', Cabal—I. Gum copal,§ ounds;
linseed oil, 2 gallons; sugar of lead, '2 pound;
turpentine, 3% gallons. Boil till stringy. ——
2. Gum copal, 8 pounds; oil, 2% gallons; sul-

hate of iron, % pound; turpentine, 5% gallons.
his is a good varnish for house and sign paint-
ing. In making the above varnishes, the gum
should be melted in a small quantity of boiling
oil, and poured gradually into the kettle contain-
ing the other oil, while boiling. When it is all
done, and cool enough so as not to ignite the
turpentine, the turpentine should be added.

VAR/VISA”, Copal (New Preparation of.)—
Dissolve one part of camphor in twelve parts of
ether. When the camphor is completely dissolv-
ed, add four parts of colorless and finely-pow-
dered copal. The copal to be carefully selected.
Place this mixture in a bottle and shake until the
copal is swollen and partly dissolved, then add

'four parts of proof alcohol and one quarter of a
‘ part of rectified spirits of turpentine; shake again
sufficiently, and the varnish is ready for use.
After the bottle has stood several days, however,
the varnish divides into two distinct strata; the
lower richer in copal, but the upper finer and
perfectly colorless. Professor Boettger, the
author of the formula, claims the su eriority in
trans arency, elasticity, hardness, an durability
for t is varnish. The lower stratum may be
again treated with camphor, etc.

VARNISA’, Crystal.— Genuine pale Canada
balsam and rectified oil of turpentine, equal parts;
mix, place the bottle in warm water, agitate well,
set it aside, in a moderately warm place, and in
a week pour off the clear. Used for maps, prints,
drawings, and other articles of paper, and also

to prepare tracing paper, and to transfer engra-
vmgs.

 

VARNISII, Fat Copal.—Take picked copal,
16 02.; prepared linseed oil, or oil of poppies,
8 02.; essence of turpentine, 16 oz.

Liquefy the copal in a matrass over a common
fire, and then add the linseed oil, or oil of poppies,
in a state of ebullition; when these matters are
incorporated, take the matrass from the fire, stir
the matter till the greatest heat is subsided, and
then add the essence of turpentine warm. Strain
the whole, while still warm, through a piece of
linen, and put the varnish into a wide-mouthed
bottle. Time contributes towards its clarifi-
cation, and in this manner it acquires abetter

ualit .

VAyleNISAV, Flexiéle.—I. India rubber in
shavings I 02.; mineral naphtha 2 lbs.; digest
at a gentle heat in a close vessel till dissolved,
and strain—2. India rubber I 02.; drying oil I
quart; dissolve by as little heat as possible, ern-
ploying constant stirring, then stram.— 3. Lin-
seed oil I gallon; dried white cop eras and sugar
of lead, of each 3 02.; litharge 02.; boil with
constant agitation till it strings well, then cool
slowly and decant the clear. If too thick, thin
it with quick-drying linseed oil. The above are
used for balloons, gas bags, etc.

VA 16N15Hfar Glas:.—Pulverized gum trag-
acanth, white of egg, equal uantity. Stand till
dissolved. Spread on the g ass carefully with a
brush.

VAIt’NISff, Gina—Powdered sealing wax,
'2 ounce; alcohol, 95 per cent. , 2 ounces. Keep
m a bottle in a warm place till the wax is dis‘
solved.

This varnish gives a beautiful glazed polish to
paper, straw, leather, and the like. t

VARZVISIY, Gold. — Pulverized gum copal,
I ounce; oil lavender, 2 ounces; turpentine, 6
ounces. Put the oil in a pan on hot sand. When
warm, add the turpentine and copal as in the
camphor varnish.

VARNISII, Gold-colored Copal.—Take copal
in powder, I 02.; essential oil of lavender, 2 02.;
essence of turpentine, 6 02.

Put the essential oil of lavender into a matrass
of a proper size, placed on a sand-bath heated
gently. Add to the oil while very warm, and at
several times, the copal powder, and stir the
mixture with a stick of white wood rounded at
the end. When the copal has entirely disappear-
ed, add at three different times the essence a1~
most in a state of ebullition, and keep continually
stirring the mixture. When the solution is com-
pleted, the result will be a varnish of a gold color,
exceedingly durable and brilliant.

VARNISIJ, Gum Elastic.——India rubber,
cut fine, % pound; linseed oil, % pound; tur-
pentine, % pound. Add the gum to the oil
while boiling. When dissolved, add the turpen-
tine. Boil the whole till clear, and strain.
Dries slow; if desired to,dry uicker, use boiled
oil. This varnish is brilliant, durable, and makes
the cloth pliable. '

VARNISH, Impermmdle.—Boiled oil, 100
parts; finely powdered litharge, 6 parts; genuine
bees’-wax, 5 parts. Boil until sufficiently thick
and stringy, then pour off the clear.

VARNISIJ, India Rudder. -—- Digest Indian
rubber, cut into small ieces, in benzine for sev-
eral days, frequently 5 aking the bottle contain-
ing the materials. A jelly will be formed, which
will separate from the benzine; this dissolved in
the fixed and volatile oils, dries fast, does not

268

crack or shine, unless mixed with some resinous
substance.

VARNISII, Italian. —- I. Boil Scio turpen-
tine till brittle, powder, and dissolve in 011 of
turpentine. — 2. Canada balsam and clear white
rosin, of each 6 oz.; oil of turpentine I quart; dis-
solve. Used for prints, etc.

VARNISII, _‘7a;fian.—Gum shellac, 2 pounds;
oil, I gallon; red lead, I pound; litharge, 1
pound; umber, % pound. Melt the gum in a
small quantity of oil, and then add it, gradually,
to the other oil while it is boiling. Boil the
whole till stringy.

This is a good, strong drver, which gives to
the paint a high gloss.

VARNISII, Lac. — I. Seedlac 3 oz.; tur-
meric I oz.; dragon’s blood % oz.; alcohol I
pint; digest for a week, frequently shaking, de-
cant and filter. Deep gold colored.

2. Ground turmeric I 1b.; gamboge 1% oz.;

m sandarach 3% lbs.; shellac % lb. ; all in pow-

er; rectified spirit of wine 2 gallons; dissolve,
strain, and add turpentine varnish I pint. Gold
colored.

3. Spanish annotto 3 lbs.; dragon’s blood I
1b.; gum sandarach 3% lbs.; rectified spirit 2
gallons; turpentine varnish I quart; dissolve and
mix as the last. Red colored.

4. Gamboge cut small I oz.; Cape aloes cut
small 3 oz.; pale shellac I 1b.; rectified spirit 2
gallons; as the last. Pale brass colored.

5. Seedlac, dragon’s blood, annotto, and gam-
boge, of each % 1b.; saffron I oz.; rectified spirit
of wine 5 quarts; as last.

Lacquers are used upon polished metals and
wood to impart the appearance of gold. As they
are wanted of different depths and shades of color,
it is best to keep a concentrated solution of each
coloring ingredient ready, so that it may at any
time be added to produce any desired tint.

VARNISIV, Mastic. -—Very pale and picked
gum mastic, 5 lbs.; glass pounded as small as
barley, and well washed and dried, 2% lbs.;
rectified turpentine 2 gallons; put them into a
clean 4 gallon stone or tin bottle, bung down
securely, and keep rolling it backwards and for-
wards pretty smartly on a counter or any other
solid place for at least 4 hours; when, if the gum
is all dissolved, the varnish may be decanted,
strained through muslin into another bottle, and
allowed to settle. It should be kept for 6 or 9
months before use, as it thereby gets both tougher
and clearer.

VARNISII, Makogany.—Sorted gum anime
81bs.; clarified oil 3 gallons; litharge and pow—
dered dried sugar of lead, of each % 1b.; boil
till it strings well, then cool a little, thin with oil
of turpentine 5% gallons, and strain.

VARNISIV, 0a12.——- 1. Clear pale rosin, 3%
lbs.; oil of turpentine I gallon; dissolve—2.
Clear Venice turpentine 4 lbs.; oil of turpentine 5
lbs.; mix. Both are good common varnishes for
wood or metal.

VARNZSIJ, 027,—Rosin 3 lbs.; melt, add
Venice turpentine 21bs.; pale drying oil I gallon;
cool a little and thin with oil of turpentine I quart.
—2. Rosin 3 lbs.; drying oil % gallon; melt
and thin with oil of turpentine 2 quarts. Both
the above are good varnishes for common work.

VARNISII, Serdlac.——Wash three ounces of
seedlac in several waters, dry it, and owder it
coarsely. Dissolve it in one pint o rectified
spirits of wine, put it in a gentle heat, shaking

 

DICTIONARY OF .E VER Y—DA Y WANTS.

as often as convenient, until it appears dissolved,
pour off the clear, and strain the remainder.

VA RNISH, Shellac.—Gum shellac, % pound;
alcohol, 1 pint. Keep in a warm place till the
gum is dissolved.

This makes a splendid polish for any fine ar-
ticle of furniture, guns, etc. It is best rubbed
on with a cloth; moisten the cloth with the pol-
ish, and rub over the work briskly. It dries in
a moment, and twenty coats may be put on in as
many minutes. It is also a good (perhaps the
best) thing for killing gnats, and is altogether a
very useful article, and no paint-shop should be
without it. Rough and weather—beaten signs,
cloth, and such like may be coated with it, which
will make the work hold up the color better. Dry
paints may also be ground in it, for painting
signs on cloth or paper. It holds the colors from
flying, and will stand the weather.

VA RNISH, Stone. —The method of coating
wood with a varnish as hard as stone has been
introduced into Germany. The ingredients are
forty parts of chalk, forty of rosin, four of lin-
seed oil, to be melted together in an iron pot.
One part of native oxide of copper and one of
sulphuric acid are then to be added, after which
the composition is ready for use. It is applied
hot to the wood with a brush, in the same wa
as paint, and as before observed becomes excee .
ingly hard on drying.

VARNISH Tar. (For Wood or Iron.)—
One gallon 0t) coal tar, half a pint of spirits of
turpentine, two ounces of oil of vitriol, stirred,
and laid on like paint. Mix, with a iece of
wood or stick, the tar and vitriol, and t en add
the turpentine, and apply with a brush. Mix no
more than you can use at once, and then apply
it as it becomes thick.

VARNISII, Turpentine. —Rosin, 5 pounds;
turpentine, I gallon. Boil till the rosin is dis-
solved.

VA IPA/751V, Water Protyfi—An excellent wa-
ter proof varnish, without alcohol, for various ar-
ticles, is prepared by taking three parts, by
weight, of pale shellac, one part of spirits of sal-
ammoniac, and six or eight of water, and shak-
ing them together in a bottle, and to be then
corked up for twelve hours. This is then placed
in an earthen vessel over a fire, and boiled, with
constant stirring, till the shellac is dissolved.
This solution replaces to great advantage the al-
coholic solutions of shellac; and when mixed
with about twelve parts of water, with the addi-
tion of terra de sienna or ochre, can be used in
the preparation of oil cloths. After a little ex-

osure to the air, the ammonia evaporates, and
eaves a layer entirely impervious to, and unal-
tered by water. The same solutions may also be
used in various combinations for staining wood
of a brown color, and rendering it at the same
time water proof.

VARNISII, W/zile Cope]. —White oxide of -\
lead, ceruse, Spanish white, white clay. Such
of these substances as are preferred ought to be
carefully dried. Ceruse and clay obstinately
retain a great deal of humidity, which would op-
pose their adhesion to drying oil or varnish. The
cement then crumbles under the fingers, and
does not assume a body. '

VARNISIV, Wait: Cfiz'mz.—There are two
kinds of varnish used to produce the white gloss;
one a solution of colorless resin in turpentine;
the other in alcohol. For the first, pure copal

PAINTING AND PAPERING.

varnish is taken; for the second, 16 parts of
sandarac are dissolved in sufiicient strong alcohol,
to which are added 3 parts of camphor; and lastly,
when all dissolved by shaking, 5'parts of Vene-
tian turpentine are added. Set for some days in
the sun till clear. However, in order to cause
the color to remain a pure white, care must be
taken not to mix oil with the white paint put on
previously. Best French zinc white is the best,
mixed with turpentine; when dry, rub down
with fine sand-paper, and, put on another coat,
(and re eat this if required, and lastly put on the
varnis idescribed. .

VARNISH, With? Hard. —Gum mastic, I
pound; gum anime, 4 ounces; gum sandarac, 5
ounces ;. alcohol, 95 per cent., 2 ounces. Add
all together, put in a warm place, and shake of-
ten. When the gums are dissolved, strain through
a lawn sieve.

VARNISIL To Polish —-—Take 2 ounces of
tripoli powdered, put it in an earthen pot, with
water to cover it: then take a piece of white
flannel, lay it over a piece of cork or rubber, and
proceed to polish the varnish, always wetting it
with the tripoli and water. It will be known
.when the process is finished by Wiping a part of
the work with a sponge, and observing whether
there is a fair even gloss. When this is the case,
take a bit of mutton suet and fine flour, and clean
the work.

VIOLET-COLOR, T o Make—Violet is made
indifferently with red and black, or red and blue;
and to. render it more splendid, with red, white
and blue. To compose violet, therefore, appli-
cable to varnish, take minium, or what is still
better, vermilion, and grind it with the camphor-
ated mastic varnish to which a fourth part of
boiled oil and a little ceruse have been added;
than add a little Prussian blue ground in oil.
The proportions requisite for the degree of in-
tensity to be given to the colorwill soon be found
by experience. The white brightens the tint.
The vermilion and Prussian blue, separated
or mixed, give hard tones, which must be
softened by an intermediate substance that
pliodifies, to their advantage, the reflections of the
' ht.
gWA LN U T, T o Polish—I. Take asphaltum,
pulverize it, place it in a jar or bottle, pour in
about twice its bulk of turpentine or benzole,
put it in a warm place, and shake it from time
to time. When dissolved, strain it, and apply to
the wood with a clothes or stiff brush. If it
should make too dark a stain, thin it with tur-
pentine or benzole. This will dry in a few hours.
f it is desired to, bring out the grain still more,
apply a mixture of boiled oil and turpentine ; this
is better than oil alone. Put no oil with the as-
pllialtum mixture, as it will dry very slowly.

hen the oil is dry the wood can be polished
with the following:—Shellac varnish, of the
usual consistency, two parts; boiled oil, one part.
Shake it well before using. Apply it to the wood
by putting a few drops on a cloth and rubbing
bris ly on the wood for a few moments. This
polish works well on old varnished furniture. ——
2. Mix, with good whiting, such colors as will
produce as near as- possible the color of the wood
- to be filled. This mixture to be dry. Then give
the wood a good coat of oil, and sprinkle the
mixture over the work until it is pretty well
, covered; then with a soft rag or other soft sub-

stance, rub this in well. Wipe off all superfluous

 

269

material. Let dry thoroughly and varnish. This
mode is far superior to sizing.

WA T ERPROOFPAIN 7 l—Ochre, 96 parts;
lamp-black, 16 parts; boiled oil to mix. Then
add yellow soap, 2 parts, dissolved in water, 8
parts. Well mix, and apply two coats of. this
mixture with a paint-brush, at intervals of, two
or three days; lastly, give a finishing coat. of
varnish formed of lamp-black and boiled oil,,well
ground together. Sufficient boiled oil must be
used to reduce the mixture to the consistence of
a thick varnish.

WHITE PAIN T S.—Nearly all whites have
their base in the oxides and carbonates of dif.
ferent metals—White Lead is a carbonate of
lead, prepared by submitting common lead to
the action of acetic acid, or vinegar, at a high
temperature. It is poisonous, especially when
combined with oils or fatty matter. The chief
adulterations are barytes, whiting, and silicate. of

, potashc—Caréouatr quaryte: is less poisonous

than lead; it is certainly’not. as valuable,,and
has very little body, though it is. whiter, and
when combined with lead in proper proportions,
makes a very good white, and does not injure the
lead for ordinary purposes. The sul hate of
barytes is often used in the cheaper lea s, but is
an inferior article—Zinc W'lzz'te is an oxide of
zinc. It is a durable and beautiful white, besides
being harmless. All the very best and finest
work in the cities is now finished with zinc. It
has less body than lead, but is vastly whiter, and
more durable, and does not, like lead, turn yel-
low when excluded from the light and air;—
C/zz'na White is lead that has been elutriated,.or
washed, thereby freeing it from all impurities.—
sz‘lz‘ng is well known to all. It is a carbonate
of lime. It is of no utility as a paint, as it will
become spotted, and rubs off after the oil iseva-
porated. It is properly fit for putty, and various,
room washes—Pearl W/zz'te is generally used
for the finer and more delicate branches of paint-
ing. It is a submuriate of bismuth—K’mmZitz
W/zz'tz is a superior quality of lead. There is
little in the market at present, as the extensive
manufactories at Krems have been abandoned.
All German leads are considered the best, as
their ores contain. less iron—Silver lV/tz'tei's also
a lead prepared by elutriating. It is the best of
the tube colors for general use.

WHITE LEAD, Clark’s pram of Making.
—A chamber of 12 to I 5 feet square is furnished
with a vinegar trough, through which a pipe of
about one~inch.calibre passes; it connects at right
angles with a large main of steam-pipe at one
end, and is there commanded by a cock; the
other end passes entirely through the trough and
chamber, and there discharges the condensed
steam. They are also each supplied with a gas
distributing~box or trunk, which is about four
inches 5 uare in the clear and about thirteen feet
long. hese are placed an inch or so above and
over the vinegar troughs, having small holes at
short intervals through their sides, and at one
end are connected by means of a short pipe, to
which a cock is also adapted, to a main gas-pipe
which is furnished by means of a blowing appa-
ratus with the requisite supply of atmospheric
air and carbonic acid gas. The sides of the'
chambers have cleats secured to them for sup-
porting the rod over which the sheets of lead are.
suspended for conversion to white lead.

ballet of iron or copper is. heated with. an:

27o DICTIONARY OFEVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

thracite coal, from which the steam and carbonic
acid gas are obtained for heating and supplying
the chambers. The doors of the chambers fit
close, so that some pressure is produced in them
during the process of conversion.

The vinegar in the troughs, the sheet-lead on
the rods, and the cisterns being closed, fire is
applied to the furnace of the boiler, the blowing
apparatus is put in motion, and the process of
making white lead has commenced. Moderate
quantities of coal and vinegar, and the constant
attention of one man, are necessary to continue
it; and one thousand tons of lead may be ope-
rated on by this attention as well as one hundred.
The largest sized chamber will contain about ten
tons of the metallic sheets, and require supplies
of vinegar twice each twenty-four hours. If the
lead appear moist and pasty, the vinegar is with~
held; and to these points, namely, the supply of
the gases, and attention to the fires, the duty of
the operative is confined. At first the vinegar
was placed on the floor of the chambers and
covered with a false floor, which was perforated
at short intervals, so as to distribute the gases
and acid vapor equally through them. In this
way the sheets of lead became much more ex-
peditiously converted to white lead, but its spe-
cific gravity was lessened, and it was less esteem-
ed by the painters.

WHITE PAINT, C/zeapu—A very good
white paint may be made without lead or oil by
the mixture of skimmed milk, lime and whiting.
The casein of the milk unites with the lime, mak-
ing a cement which holds the whiting in place,
and a very durable coating is thus formed. The
method of preparing it is very simple, as follows :
Take five pounds of whiting, two quarts of skim-
med milk and two ounces of fresh slacked lime;
put the whiting in a stoneware vessel, and add a
small portion of the milk with constant stirring.
When a smooth thin paste is formed, add the re-
mainder of the milk, then sprinkle the lime upon
the surface and stir in. The paint is then ready
for use unless the whiting and lime be not quite
fine, when it may be necessary to grind the
whole together. This paint possesses the ad
vantage of being economical and durable, and will
doubtless come into extensive use for many kinds
of cheap work. Paris white may be used instead
of whiting for superior work.

WHITE WASH—I. A fine brilliant wash is
obtained by mixing “Paris white” with glue, in
the roportion of sixteen pounds to half a pound
of g ue. The glue should be the white, transpa-
rent kind. It should be covered with cold water
at night, and in the morning carefully heated
until dissolved. The Paris white should be
stirred into hot water until it is of the proper
milky consistency for applying to the walls, and
the dissolved glue added and thoroughly mixed.
This recipe is considered one of the best, and has
the merit of being inexpensive.—-2. The follow-
ing is sept out by the Lighthouse Board of the
Treasury Department : “The following recipe
for whitewashing has been found by experience
to answer on wood, brick, and stone, nearly as
well as oil paint, and is much cheaper: Slack
half a bushel of unslacked lime with boiling water,
keeping it c0vered during the process. Strain it
and add a peck of salt, dissolved in warm water;
three pounds of . round rice put in boiling water,
and boiled to a tiin paste; half a,p_o.und of pow-
dered Spanish whiting, and a pound of clear glue,

 

dissolved in warm water: mix this well together,
and let the mixture stand for several days. Keep
the wash thus prepared in a kettle or portable
furnace, and when used put it on as hot as poso
sible, with painters’ or whitewash brushes.”—3.
Take a clean, water tight cask and put into it
half a bushel of lime. Slack it by pouring water over

'it boiling hot, and in sufficient quantity to cover

it five inches deep, and stir it briskly till thor-
oughly slackened. \Vhen the lime has beenl
slackened, dissolve it in water, and add two
pounds of sulphate of zinc and one of common!
salt. These will cause the wash to harden and
prevent its cracking, which gives an unseemly
appearance to the work. A beautiful cream color
may be given to the wash by adding three pounds
of yellow ochre; or a good pearl or lead color,
by the addition of lamp or iron black. For fawn
color add four pounds of umber, one pound of
Indian red, and one pound of common black.
For stone color add four pounds raw umber and
two pounds lamp black. When applied to the
outside of houses and to fences, it is rendered
more durable by adding about a pint of sweet
milk to a gallon of wash.

WHITE WA 511, Shara—Take half a bushel
of nice unslacked lime; slack it with boiling
water, covering it during the process to keep in
the steam. Strain the liquor through a fine sieve
or strainer, and add to it one peck of clean salt,
previously dissolved in warm water, three lbs.
of ground rice, ground to a thin paste, and stir-
red and boiled hot; half a pound of powdered
Spanish whiting, and one pound of clean glue,
which has been previously dissolved by first
soaking it well, and then hanging it over a small
fire, in a small kettle within a large one filled
with water. Add five gallons of hot water to the
whole mixture ; stir it well and let it stand a few
days, covered from dirt. It should be put on
quite hot; for this purpose it can be kept in a
kettle on a portable furnace. It is said, that
about one pint of the mixture will cover a square
yard upon the outside of a house, if properly ap-
plied. Brushes more or less small may be used,
according to the neatness of the job required.
Coloring may be used to impart any desirable
tinge to the preparation, which retains its bril-
liancy for a long time.

WHITE WA SH, Improved—The sulphate of
baryta is said to possess numerous advantages
over lime as a material for whitewashing walls.
Four ounces of glue are soaked for twelve hours
in tepid water, and then placed until it boils, in
a tin vessel, with aquart of water—the vessel be-
ing placed in the water, as in the usual process
of melting glue; the whole is then stirred until
dissolved. Six or eight pounds of sulphate of
baryta, reduced to an impalpable powder, is put
into another vessel; hot water is added, and the
whole stirred until it has the appearance of milk
of lime. The sizing is then added, and the
whole stirred well together, and applied in the
ordinary way while still warm. .

W’IIITEWASHED WALLS, To Paints»
If the cracks be in the plastering, and the wash
be sound around the cracks, plaster of Paris is
the best thing to fill them with, as it hardens
quickly, does not shrink, and leaves the surface
on a plane with the wall. If the plaster of Paris
set before it can be worked, wet it.w1th Vinegar.
The stronger the acid, the slower it Will set: If
cracks be filled with putty, and the wall be painted

PAINTING AND PAPERING.

in gloss color, the streaks of putty are very apt
to be flat (no gloss), and if ainted in flat color,
the streaks are quite sure to ave a gloss. These
streaks, of course, will spoil the beauty of the
work, but do not affect its durability. .When
filled with plaster of Paris the reversion of gloss
never appears, if done as directed. If the cracks
be only in the wash, the latter is loosening from
the wall; and if it has not begun to scale, it soon
will, and all atempts to fasten it on and paint it,
will be total loss. If it be loose enough toscrape
off, scrape the wall, taking care not to gouge into
the original wall. If not loose enough, let it
alone until it is. If the wash be thin, solid, and
even, it can be painted to look and wear well.
When the surface is lumpy, rub the lumps off
with a sandstone, or a brick. After a wall has
been prepared, as in either of above cases, or if
a wall that has never been washed is to be paint-
ed, size it with two coats of glue size (3 ounces
glue to one gallon water.) Be sure the glue is
all dissolved before using any of it. Let the first
coat dry before the second coat is put on. When
the second coatis dry, paint as follows: Mix the
first coat of paint in the proportion of I gallon
raw linseed oil to I5 pounds white lead, ground
in oil, and I gill of dryer. Second coat: I gallon
raw linseed oil, 25 pounds white lead ground in
oil, and % gill dryer. (The lead should be the
best.) Then finish either in gloss or flat color,
the same as if it were wood work, with one good
coat of priming on. Shade all the coats of paint,
as near as you can, to the color you wish to fin-
ish in. Mix the third and fourth coats the same
as the first, that is, about the same thickness for
a. gloss finish, and a little thinner for aflat finish.

WOOD, Composition for Coating—A method
of coating wood with a varnish as hard as stone
has been recently introduced. The ingredients
are forty parts of chalk, forty of resin, four of
linseed oil, to be melted together in an iron pot.
One part of native oxide of co per, and one of
sulphuric acid, are then to be a ded, after which
the composition is ready for use. It is applied
hot to the wood, with a brush, in the same way
aspaint, and, as before observed, becomes ex-
ceedingly hard on drying.

WOOD, To Dye Red. -—Take chopped Brazil
wood, and boil it well in water, strain it through
a cloth. Then give your wood two or three
coats, till it is the shade wanted. If wanted a
deep red, boil the wood in water impregnated
with alum and quick-lime. When the last coat
is dry, burnish it with the burnisher and then
varnish.

IVOOD, To Polish—Take a piece of pumice-
stone and water, and pass regularly over the
work until the rising of the grain is cut down;
then take powdered tripoli and boiled linseed oil,
and polish the work to a bright surface.

YELLOFV PAINTS. —Yellows have their
bases in iron, lead, quicksilver, and arsenic. —
Clzrome Yellow. The best is made from chro-
mium and acetate, or the nitrate of lead, and is
properly a chromate of lead. An interior article
is prepared with whiting. The best now in use
for general paintingr has its base in silicate of pot-
ash and barytes.-—Gamooge is the concrete juice
of various-trees in Ceylon. It is a transparent
color, and conse uently useful as a glazing
color. — Yellow 0: re is an earth. The best
comes from France. —- Stone Oc/zre is also an
earth, found in many parts of Europe—Naples

 

2?!

Yellow is an earth found near Naples, but most
of that now in the market is composed of lead,
alum, sal-ammonia, and antimony. It is a soft,
bright, and durable color. — T umer’: Yellow, a
muriate of lead. This is abeautiful tint, and
has formerly been much used among coach-
painters.

ZINC PAINT, Preparation of: —A useful
hint in regard to the reparation of aint with
oxide of zinc instead 0 white lead wil be found
in the following instructions, published in a Ger-
man journal: The ordinary boiled linseed-oil
should be re laced in the mixing operation by
one prepared) by gently boiling two hundred
pounds of the raw oil for five or six hours, then
adding about twenty-four pounds of coarsely
broken lumps of binoxide of manganese, and con-
tinuing the boiling operation for about ten hours
longer. In this manner a very quickly drying
linseed-oil is obtained, which is eminently fit for
the purpose of being used with zinc-white and
other zinc colors. According to the writer of the
article, much depends upon the use of old lino
seed-oil, and also upon the pains taken with the
boiled oil, which, unless carefully kept from the
contact of the air, becomes thick in a very short
time. The boiled oil so prepared is not to be
used alone in painting with zinc-white, but must
be mixed with from three to five per cent. of raw
linseed-oil while the paint is being mixed to-

ether.

g ZINC— WA TER PAINT. --The unpleasant‘
ness of occupying a newly painted house may, it
is said, be avoided by the use of zinc-water paint.
Powdered oxide of zinc (which may be heated
with a little potato starch if more “body” be
wanted) is combined with the desired mineral
or vegetable color, and with this an aqueous so-
lution of chloride of zinc, to which some tartrate
of potassa has been added, is then mixed; the
water paint thus formed being applied with a
brush on the surface to be coated. In half an
hour this paint will be perfectly dry; and the ob-
ject of the alkaline tartrate is to make the dry-
ing process less rapid. The advantages of using
the water aints are very numerous: they are
more durable than oil paints, do not blacken by
exposure to sulphurous vapors, are devoid of
odor, dry quickly, resist dampness and the action
of water, can be cleansed with boiling water and
soap like oil paints, and preserve the wood to
which they are applied from decay and render it
less combustible. This latter property may be
increased by the addition of box-ax. Both the
Oxide and the chloride of zinc can be manufactured
without danger to the health of the workman,
sold at a low price, and kept for any length of
time in any climate. ‘

ZINC, Paz‘nlz'ng.-—-A difficulty is often expe-
rienced in causing oil colors to adhere to sheet
zinc. Boettger recommends the employment of
a mordant, so to speak, of the following compo-
sition: One part of chloride of copper, one of
nitrate of copper, and one of sal ammoniac, are
to be dissolved in sixty-four parts of water, to
which solution is to be added one part of com-
mercial hydrochloric acid. The sheets of zinc
are to be brushed over with this liquid, which
gives them a deep black color; in the course of
rom twelve to twenty-four hours they become
dry, and to their now dirty-gray surface a coat of
any oil color will firmly adhere. Some sheets of
zinc prepared in this way, and afterward painted,

272

have been found to entirely withstand all the

atmospheric changes of winter and summer.
ZINC WHITE WA SAC—Mix oxide of zinc

with common size, and apply it with a white-

DICTIONARY 0F EVERKDAY WANTS.

wash brush to the ceiling. After this, apply in
the same manner a wash of the chloride of zinc,
which will combine with the oxide to form a
smooth cement with a shining surface

PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE FINE ARTS.

A LBER T ’5 NE W PROCESS of Plzotalz'tfia-
pizy. -— In 300 parts of pure water, 150 parts
of white of egg and Isfparts of gelatine are dis-
tsolved, with 8 parts 0 bichromate of potash.
)The solution is accelerated by gentle heat, then
filtered, and carefully kept in the dark. With
this solution one side of a heavy piece of plate-
glass, or some other transparent material, is
coated, and dried in a dark, warm, room. This
coat of albuminous material must be made very
carefully, so that no irregularities present them—-
selves either in the smoothing of surface or in
the color. Then the dry surface is carefully cov-
ered with a heavy black cloth, and the free side
of the glass is submitted to the action of day-
light. The effect of exposure of from one and a
half to two hours is to make the side of the coat-
ing toward the glass more insoluble than the
other. A second coating, made without albu-
men, of 300 parts water, 50 parts gelatine, and
17 arts bichromate of potassa, is then applied;
an this is again dried in a warm, dark room.
This second coat is now exposed to daylight,
under any negative, in the usual frame, for a
sufficient length of time, which varies greatly for
different negatives and the state of the atmos-
phere, as every photographer knows. Then the
lass plate is removed from the frame, soaked
at about fifteen minutes in water, and exposed
to the air to become dry to a certain degree; it
is then ready to be printed like alithographic
stone. The parts of the coating which have be-
come insoluble by exposure to light have not
attracted water. These are dry, and will take
the printing-ink; while those parts which were
protected by the details of the negative have re-
mained soluble to a greater, or less degree, have
absorbed water, are therefore moist, and will not
take the oily printing-ink. The plate is treated
like a lithographic stone, alternately with water,
or moisture applied in the usual manner, and
with printing-ink applied by the printer’s roller.
From every plate thus prepared 500 to 1,000 im-
pressions may be made. 'n order to prevent the
breaking of the plate by pressure during printing,
it is placed on an elastic bed, or strengthened be.
low with a thick layer of plaster, cement, or other
suitable material. To keep the paper clean
around the plate, a thin metallic frame, with a
hole equal to the size of the picture, is laid every
time on the plate, the same after inking, as is
often done in all other styles of printing.
ALBEKTYPE PROCESb, Edwards" Im-
owmmt on.-—-—An English artist, Mr. Ernest
dwards, has been improving upon the Albert
rocess until he has succeeded in obtaining 'What
he and others call the perfection of the art. This
method, in its present manipulation, consists in
coating evenly with wax the plate of glass, the

 

surface of which has been ground but not polish-
ed, and then pouring over it a sufficient quantity
of. a mixture of gelatine, bichromate of potash,
and chrome alum, so as to form, when spread
out and subsequently dried, a film of the thick‘
ness of a very thin card. The chrome alum is
of great importance in preventing the subsequent
solubility of the film, as it has the property of:
preventing the gelatine from again becoming
liquid after it is set; and without the use of some'
such process it would be entirely impossible to-
carr on the work successfully. The usual pro,
portion of bichromate of potash to the gelatine is
about five per cent., although this varies for dif-
ferent applications.

After the glass has been coated it is maintained
in a level position fora few minutes, until the
film has set sufficiently to permit its being placed
edgewise, and stored away in a suitable drying-
room to dry—an operation which usually occu-
pies about twenty-four hours. After this the
film is removed from the glass, the operation
being facilitated by the use of the substratum of
wax. This constitutes one of the most impor-
tant advances of the Edwards process over the
Albert, for various reasons that it is not ne-
cessary here to adduce.. The film is then to be
subjected to the action of the negative, and treat-
ed as in the Albert process; after which it is to
be attached to a plate of zinc, which is accom-
plished by a special manipulation and it is then
ready to furnish impressions. These are obtained
by treating as on lithographic stone, namely by
sponging with water, removing the surplus, and
then pressing over the surface of the plate a
sheet of blotting-paper. The ink rollers are next
passed over it, the ink adhering according to the
action of the light. The advantage of using the
zinc plates in printing instead of glass, as is
found in the original Albert process, lies in the
greater durability of the former, and the immu-
nity from the danger of cracking. A very great
pressure is necessary in this class of printing to

ring out certain tints, and the glass late, how-
ever thick, is apt to be fractured. tis stated
that fifteen hundred uniformly good prints can
be obtained from a single film; and if a larger
edition than this be required it is a very easy
matter to prepare a number of films at the same
time, so as to have a sufiicient supply for any
pur ,ose.

LB U11! EN, Substitute fan—A new substi-
tute for albumen, under the name of lactarine has
been announced. It is a white or slightly e1.
low powder, with the odor of casein. W en
subjected to ether, a small amount of saponaceous
fat may be extracted from the mixture. The
powder resists water, but is accessible to the ins
fluence of the alkalies, either caustic or carbonat-

PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE FINE ARTS.

ed. Treated with the proper proportion of
either acetic or h drochloric acid, a curd is pre-
ci itated, which is found to be soluble in excess
0 the acid. In use, it is dissolved in ammonia,
and can be colored to any required shade.

BA Til, T01V1NG.-—To % gallon water add
% ounce solution of common washing soda sa-
turated, or enough to make it feel slippery
to the fingers, then add a suitable quantity of
chloride of gold.

BATH, FlexVG.—Water, % gan, hyposul-
phite of soda, 12 025.

BA T H, NE GA T I VE.—Forty grains of sil-
ver to the ounce of water, iodize slightly with
iodide of silver; slightly acidulate with nitric

acrd.

BATH, To Barbra—Add fresh silver it re-
quired. Boil down one half. Add as much
water as necessary, filter, and it is ready for use.

BA THS, Sanitizing—For ositives: Pure
re-crystallized nitrate of silver 437 gr.), I 02.;
pure nitric acid, 3 minims; alcohol, 2 drs.; dis-
tilled water, 10 ozs.; iodide of potassium, I gr,
Dissolve the nitrate of silver in 3 025. of the dis-
tilled water, add the iodide of potassium, shake
and allow to settle ; test for ac1dity with blue lit-
mus paper, and, if present, neutralize carefully
with a solution of carbonate of soda. When
neutral, add the remaining 7025. of distilled
water, filter and add the alcohol and nitric acid,
and the bath is ready for use.

For negatives: Pure re-crystallized nitrate of
silver, I 02.; glacial acetic acid, 5 minims; alco-
hol, 3 drs.; iodide of potassium, I gr.; distilled
water, 10 ozs. Dissolve the silver in 3 025.,

and treat precisely as for bath for positives, ob- '

serving that it is to be acidified with glacial acetic
acid in place of nitric acid.

These baths should be kept in a dark place,
and always show an acid test. When out of
order, boil for a few minutes, add one-tenth vo-
lume of distilled water and restore to the or-
iginal strength by adding strong solution of crys-
tallized nitrate of silver in distilled water, and
acidifying with the proper acids.

BICHROMA TISflL—This is an easy and
cheap process, carried out as follows : Fasten a
piece of stout transparent tracing paper by gum-
ming the four corners to a piece of strong card-
board, or a piece of thick, flat, level glass on
which the design on thin paper has been pasted.
If you cannot draw or get a friend to draw for
you, many good and effective subjects may be
found among old prints and woodcuts, and by
taking a careful tracing of the necessary parts, a
very good design and skillful bit of drawing ob-
tained. When the design is satisfactorily pencil-
ed out on the tracing paper it must be gone over
with a quill pen and thick ticket writer’s ink;
when dry, turn it, fasten down, and go over the
other side. About one pennyworth of bichromate
of potassa is to be coarsely pounded and put into
about two ounces of hot water; strain this when
cold, and then brush over one side of any pieces
of paper or silk that it ma be desired to print
upon when they are dry. The printing is done
by the usual photo paper printing frame, substi-
tuting the design on tracing paper for the glass
negative. They print quick and deep if exposed
to direct sunlight; one or more trials will easily

ve the right amount of time, and fixing is done

y washing and soaking for a
water, next the drying and pressing with a

 

‘ the wood blocks.
short time in clean -

273

warm flat iron. Pure white centers may be left
in any kind of border by stopping out in the
printing with a piece of thin card or blackened

aper. Ornamental devices or ornaments can

e printed on pieces of white silk or ribbon
by marking out a pattern and laying on the bi-
chromate solution with a camel hair brush inside
the pattern; when dry, iron slightly, in order
that the ribbon may lie flat on the tracing pattern.
Some highly effective ornamentation may be pro-
duced in this way. White centers may be left
on ribbon and paper, and mottoes, verses, etc.,
printed with type. Pleasing and artistic blend—
ings of type rinting and ornament may be pro-
duced by suc means with a very small outlay of
time or money.

CAMERA, T a Adiurtfir C/Lemz'ml Form.—
Take a photograph of a printed sheet with the
full aperture of the portrait lens, the central
letters being carefully focused as before. Then
examine at what part of the plate the greatest
amount of distinctness of outline is to be found.
It will, sometimes, happen that whereas the
exact center was focused visually, the letters on
a spot midway between the center and edge are
the sharpest in the photograph. In that case the
chemical focus is longer than the other, and by
a distance equivalent to, but in the opposite di-
rection of, the space through which the lens has
to be moved in order to define those particulars
sharply to the eye.

CAMEO-AIEDALLION CARTE-DE-VI-
SITE, To [Wakes—The apparatus necessary for
the production of cameo-medallion cartes is very
simple, and comprised in the following articles:

A four-footed metal water bath, capable of be-
ing heated by means of a spirit-lamp, into which
a square porcelain dish is placed, whose over-
la )ping sides fit over those of the water bath.
This dish, which is furnished with a lip, is em-‘
ployed to maintain the gelatin fluid at a high
temperature.

The stamp, consisting of two square wood
blocks connected together with hinges; between
the blocks is fixed a brass plate also upon hinges,
having in the middle an oval opening large
enough to contain a bust portrait. The wood
blocks open in the manner of an album, in which
the brass plate, as it were, takes the place of the
carte, and are, on the outside, perfectly smooth.
On the inside of one of the blocks is an oval, in
relief, of the exact dimensions of the opening in
the metal plate; and on the other block is a cor-
responding hollow of oval form.

A press which can be tightly closed by means
of screws. A linen or bookbinders’ press will
answer the purpose well, if such can be obtained,
but I have myself constructed a small wooden
press expressly for the process, which answers
exceedingly well.

The above is all the apparatus necessary for
the production of these ortraits. In the first
place, some pattern oval: are cut out of thick
black paper, using the oval opening in the brass
plate and a sharp penknife for the purpose, the
cutting operation being effected at one sweep.
In this way are obtained masks and small oval’
mats, which fit precisely into one another, and
are, moreover, identical in size with the opening
in the metal plate, and the relief and intaglio in
A print from a portrait nega.
tive, with graduated background, is then taken
org of the pressure-frame, and over it is placed:
I

274

one of the masks, in a position most favorable to
the picture; and when the same has thus been
centered, the oval mat corresponding to the mask
is placed upon the print, and the mask with-
drawn. The print is then exposed to the sun
under a glass plate, the middle being still cov-
ered with the black mat, which must not be allow-
ed to shift from its place,‘ and thus a darkly-
tinted, or even black, margin is printed around
the oval picture. The print, in this condition, is
then toned, fixed and washed, and finally sized
in gelatin. The latter operation is performed by
the aid of some glass lates of the required size,
which are carefully c eaned, as if to serve for
negatives, and then rubbed over with finely-
powdered stone alum (luff stone) by means of a
tuft of cotton wool, the superfluous powder being
afterwards removed with a soft dusting brush.
These plates are coated with a four per cent. nor.
mal collodion, and placed to dry in a spot free
from dust. \Vhen perfectly dry, a quantity of
gelatin is dissolved in hot water in a beaker, the
solution being of the consistence of the collodion
previously employed. This is filtered through a

iece of linen into the porcelain bath, which has,
in the interim, been warmed by means of the
water bath, and should be maintained at an even
temperature during the whole period of working.

The prints required to be gelatined are, in the
first instance, trimmed to the right size by means
of a cutting glass, and are then immersed bodily
into the gelatin solution, so as to be fully im-
pregnated with the same. The glass plates coated
with collodion are now taken in hand; the prints
laid face downwards thereon, care being taken
that all air bubbles between the paper and glass
are carefully pressed out and removed; after-
wards a sheet of stout white paper, somewhat
bigger than the print, is cemented to the back of
each photograph, a precaution for protecting the

ictures in the event of their spontaneously leav-
mg the glass on drying.

The plates are allowed to remain for ten or
twelve hours (sa over night) in a dry locality,
and, at the end 0 that time, the portraits may be
separated from the glass by making an incision
of the film all round the paper. The superfluous
paper should be trimmed off previously to the
pictures being mounted upon cardboard.

After drying, the carte is put through a steel
press, and is then placed in the embossing stamp
to give it the desired relief.

Many of the manipulations may be slightly
modified if desired. For instance, instead of ce-
menting a piece of paper to the back of the prints,
the card itself, if not very thick, may be at once
attached, and the margins thereof thus gelatined,
the process of rolling being in this way obviated.
Some photographers add a small quantity of
sugar candy to the gelatin, in order to prevent
the sizing solution drying too rapidly, and to
render the finished card more plastic and impres-
sionable.

CANVAS, To Prtparefbr OIL PAINTING.
—Stretch your canvas on a board with tacks and
paint it simply with white lead and raw linseed-
oil ; put it on thin, evenly, and smoothly; if you
do not want a white ground to paint on, you
may mix in very little ochre, which makes it yel-
lowish, or a trace of lamp-black, which gives a
bluish gray. When dry and not smooth enough,
you may rub it down with pumice-stone and
water, and give it a second very fine and thin

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

coat. This, however, is seldom necessary. Then
stretch on your frame. We warn you against
other recipes, and above all against the advice
of using glue first to fill the pores of the canvas;
your painting will, in this case, be in great
danger to eventually peel off in patches by ex-
posure to dampness, 'or even by damp weather
only. The pores of -the canvas must be filled
with oil, which is waterproof, and not with glue.
The latter is only good for economy, to save a
little oil. We have always followed this simple
advice given here, and have never had any cause
to abandon it. i

CRA Y ONS, To Make—Take three quarters
of a pound of blue clay, three quarters of a
pound of the coloringrequlred, such as vermilion,
chrome, Prussian blue, orpiment, etc., 2 ounces
of turpentine, 4 ounces of spirits of wine, and 6
ounces of fine shellac. The clay must be well
mixed with water, passed through a fine lawn
sieve, and allowed to subside; the water is then
poured off and the clay dried. The shellac must
be dissolved in the mixed turpentine and spirit
with a little warmth. The dry clay and the co-
loring, must be blended in a mortar, and then
the shellac mixture added and well incorporated
till the whole is a doughy mass; it is then to be
rolled out into a pencil form and dried with stove
heat. To make the crayons of uniform sub
stance, the paste may be placed in a cylinder, with
a hole at one end and a piston at the other (like
a boy’s popgun), the “wormy” pieces that pass
Shrough are then cut into proper lengths and

ried.
C OLLODION PROCESS.—This process is

.one that generally gives more pleasure to the

amateur and his friends than any other. The
first thing requisite is gun cotton: to make which,
proceed as follows :—Take half an ounce of dry
nitrate of potass (saltpetre), and three quarters of
an ounce of strong sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol);
mix in a glass or porcelain cup; then add thirty
grains of dry cotton wool, and stir the whole up
with a glass rod for about five minutes ; remove
the cotton, and wash it well in four or five
waters, (common water will do); when well
washed, dry it careful] . You thus obtain gun
cotton. About ten grains of this is dissolved in
about three ounces of sulphuric ether, to which
is added about sixty drops of alcohol. This so-
lution is called collodion.

When collodion is poured on a clean plate of
glass, it almost instantly hardens into a beauti-
ful transparent and very tenacious film; and,
taking advantage of this property, we incorporate
with it a certain amount of a sensitive salt of
silver, which, on being exposed in the camera in
the same manner as paper, produces a most
beautiful picture in a space of time varying from
the fraction of a second up to ten or fifteen se-
conds; and this is generally accompanied with
the most perfect detail of all the parts. .

There are several formulas for the preparation
of this useful substance; but we sha 1 only give
one, as more would confuse the amateur, and we
have always found the following very certain :—
Dissolve twenty grains of gun cotton in six
ounces of ether, to which add three quarters of
an ounce of alcohol. If the cotton does not en-
tirely dissolve, allow it to remain for a short
time, and pour the clean part off for use. Keep
this solution in a bottle, and call it I. To one
ounce of alcohol (spirits of wine), add as much

PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE FINE ARTS.

iodide of ammonium as it will dissolve; then add
as much iodide of silver (made from the nitrate
'of silver and iodide of potassium), as the solution
will take up; keep this in another bottle, and
call it 2. Procure another bottle with a wide
mouth, and pour into it one ounce of collodion
out of I; to which add I5 or 20 drops from 2.
The collodion thus formed is called collodio-iodide
of silver.

Havin well washed and cleaned a plate of
glass, 0 the same size as the frame in your
camera, coat it on one side evenly, and without
hurry, by passing the collodion on the center
from the bottle; pour back any excess of 1i uid
from one corner, and then draw the mout of
the bottle along the under edge of the glass, un-
til you come-to the other corner of the plate. In
this way you cause the collodion to cover the
plate in an even manner. . .

To excite the plate thus loaded With collodion
for the camera, proceed as follows: —- In a
trough or bath made of gutta percha, glass, or
porcelain, large enough to hold the plate, make
a mixture in the following proportions: distilled
water, I 02.; nitrate of silver, 20 grains; alcohol,
30 drops; dissolve and filter, (if the bath contain
six or eight ounces you of course increase the
quantity of each six or eight times;) you then
carefully and quickly plunge the coated plate of
glass into the bath, and after lifting it up and
down two or three times, allow it to remain
covered by the solution for about two minutes.

T 0 do this neatly, get a strip of glass two or
three inches longer than the plate, and about two
inches wide; cut off about a quarter of an inch
from one end and cement it on the front of the
end from which you took it; you thus obtain a
dipper on which the plate rests, and by holding
the other end of the plate, it can be easily plunged
in the bath. You then place the plate in the
frame, and the frame in the camera, (having
previously obtained a good focus ;) and by pulling
out the slide in front of the plate, you expose for
a. space of time varying from one to fifteen se-
conds. We cannot give any rule for the exact
length of time, as it depends on the color of the
object, the amount of light shining on it, the
quality of that light, and the amount of light
which the object reflects, etc., a knowledge of
all which must be obtained by practice.

Having closed your slide, you carry the frame
into the dark room,and, taking out. the plate, devel-
op the picture in the following manner :—Make
a solution consisting of distilled water, 4 ozs.;
pyrogallic acid, 5 grains; strongest acetic acid,
60 minims; dissolve and filter. In applying this

' solution, hold the plate perfectly level, the col-
lodion side upwards, and pour enough of it on
the plate to cover it; in a very short time the
picture will be developed. Wash it with water,
and our over it some of the solution of hypo-
sulp ate of soda, made thus: water, I pint, hypo-
sulphate of soda, 4 ozs. Allow it to remain one
or two minutes; and after thoroughly washing it
all off again, your “negative” collodion picture
is finished.

COLLODI 01V, Pfiologmp/zia—Pure alcohol,
lo 025.; pure ether, 20 ozs.; prepared cotton,
300 grs. Pour the alcohol into a 40 oz. glass
bottle, add the cotton, and shake until the cotton
is thoroughly wetted ; then add the ether, shake
well and set away in a cool, dark place for sev-
eral weeks to settle. In very warm weather in-

 

vdrs.; water, to 025.; nitric acid, 2 minims.

275

crease the proportion of alcohol by addition a day
before use or at time of iodizin .

C OLLODI ON, T o Iodiz:.—-—Plain collodion,
3 025.; iodizing solution, I oz. Mix and set
away in a dark, cool place 12 hours before
using. ’

An of the ordinary iodides or bromides can
be su stituted in the above formula.

COLLODIO-ALBUMEN PROCESS, Tau-
panda—Cleaning the Glasses. This part of the
process must be conducted with care—Semi-
tz'zing and Washing. Employ 2 nitrate baths in
this rocess, one for the collodion. and the other,
for tile second film, viz., the albumen. The a1-
bumen nitrate bath must contain free acetic acid,
and therefore if one solution be employed for both
films it should be a bath of aceto-nitrate. Sens-
itize the collodion in the ordinary way, hold-
ing it rather longer than usual before dipping.
Having arranged 2 dishes of common water,
side b side, lay the plate face uppermost in the
first ish, and wave the water backwards and
forwards for about 30 seconds. Then put the
plate into the second dish and leave it whilst an-
other glass is being coated and immersed in the
sensitizing bath. Now drain plate N o. I closely
on blotting-paper, and it wil be ready for the
iodized albumen. Plate No. 2 remains in the
sensitizing bath until the first glass has been
coated with albumen and placed to dry—Pre-
parafz'an (31’ Me Iodized A lbumm. Take of al-
bumen, 3 025.; distilled water, I 02.; strong am-
monia, Io minims; iodide of potassium, Io grs.;
bromide of ammonium, Io grs. First mix the
ammonia and the water, then add the other in-
gredients and shake together in a bottle. Iodide
of ammonium may be advantageously used—To
A pply the A lbumm. For a stereoscopic size”
measure out I dr. of the albumen and pour it 0m
and ofi’ twice to displace the surface water of the
washed collodion film. Then apply a second quan-
tity. Stand the albuminized plates vertically on
blottingpaper to drain and drv.-—-— TIM/4611041171111!
Bat/z. Take an ordinary collodion negative bath
and add to each fluid ounce 3o minims of glacial
acetic acid, keep it in glass or gutta percha and
continue to use it until it has become blackened
by the action of the albumen. The film of al-
bumen must be rendered quite dry by holding it
to the fire before it is dipped in the aceto-nitrate
bath. Leave them in the bath any time between
30 seconds and 2 minutes, and then remove the
wash with water. Use two dishes for washing
and allow 20 or 30 seconds in each dish; then
rear up again to dry, and the plates will be ready
for exposure. Artificial heat may be used with
advantage. The most successful operators in Tau~
penot’s process give a very long exposure.—
Development. Prepare a saturated solution of
gallit acid in distilled water, adding 4 grs. to
each oz. Filter this developer through paper.
The solution of nitrate of silver for use with
the gallic acid may be made of the strength of
20 grs. to the ounce. Add I 5 minims to I oz. of
gallic acid solution. Previous to the application
of the developer the surface of the film must be
moistened with water. From half an hour to an
hour must be allowed for the full development
With gallic acid. Fixwith a saturated solution of
hyposul hite.

DE ELOPERS—For positives: I. Pure sul-
phate of iron, [50 grs.; glacial acetic acid, 6 fl.
Dis»

275

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

solve the sulphate of iron in the water, and add
the acetic and nitric acid and cork tightly.

2. Sulphate of iron, 480 grs.; nitrate of baryta,
320 grs.; alcohol, I 02.; nitric acid, 30 minims ;
water, lo 025. Powder the nitrate of baryta and
dissolve in the water warmed; when dissolved,
add the powdered sulphate of iron, stirring for a
few minutes; filter, and when the li uidbecomes
cold, add the nitric acid and alcoho separately.
Bottle and cork tightly.

For negatives: I. Pyrogallic acid, IO grs.; gla-
cial acetic acid, 3 drs.; distilled water, IO ozs.
Dissolve the pyrogallic acid in the water, add the
glacial acetic acid, cork tightly.

2. Sulphate of iron and ammonium, 2 025., or
sulphate of iron, 1% 02.; glacial acetic acid, %
02., or acetic acid N o. 8, 1% 02.; alcohol, % 02.;
distilled water, 10 025. Add to the distilled
water in the order indicated, the iron-salt to be
first dissolved. In warm weather this developer
requires dilution, and must be washed from the
plate the instant the details appear. .

DE VEL OPER, Pyrogallic A vii—Forty grs.
of pyrogallic acid being dissolved in 1 oz. of gla-
cial acetic acid, and 20 minims added to I 02. of
water when required for use. The strong solu~
tion becomes black from decomposition in the
course of a few weeks, but when diluted it has
only a faint yellow tint, and is tolerably effective
in bringing out the image. In place of acetic
acid strong alcohol may be used as a solvent, %
2. dr. of pyrogallic acid being dissolved in 1 oz. of
spirit, and 20 minims of the resulting liquid
added to each 02. of acidified water. No attempt
must be made, however, to combine acetic acid
and spirit in one solution, since abundance of
acetic other would be generated by so doing.
These plans of preparingaconcentrated developer
are useful for a few weeks’ keeping, but are not
recommended for an unlimited time.

DEVELOPER, Concentrated Iran. — Mr.
Edwards has found that the addition of a small
quantity of copper to the iron developer hastens
action, secures immunity from fogging, and
brings out the finest details without impairing
the contrast of shadows. He prepares a stock
solution as follows : Protosulphate of iron, I
pound; double salt of iron and ammonia, !
pound; sulphate of copper, I ounce; water, 40
ounces, or enough to make a saturated solution.
When required for use, take one ounce of the
stock solution, dilute with 16 ounces of water,
and add an ounce each of acetic acid and alcohol,
but their proportions may be varied to suit the
requirements of temperature and the special
class 0t work.

There are advantages in having a stock bottle
ready to be diluted and mixed when about to be
used, and for the tourist who em lo 5 the
wet process, it is an invaluable metho 0 work-
ing, as it is very portable, and can be modified
by the addition of one or another solution, to
suit the character of the work. A little nitrate
of silver solution can be used as an intensifier, if
required.

DRA WING, Crayon.-—Drawing in crayon
will be found much more convenient than in oil
or water colors, as you are spared the delay of
waiting for them to dry. Crayon materials or
pastels are put up in boxes of necessary tints for
portraits or landscapes, and, by blending, every
shade and color can be obtained as in oil paint-

ing.’ The pppil can purghase prepared paper or

 

:2-

board. A good pa r for portraiture is pumice
paper. Your sketc should be made as in pen-
crlmg, and then proceed to the shading. For a.
head, we consider the dra cry and groundwork
—and here allow me to advise all to study pen-
ciling before attempting crayons: also, to begin
by painting easy thin s.

The picture being rawn, proceed to fill in the
background. Let the tints be varied, if in a
colored crayon, according to the ideal or originals
from which ou are designing it. F or example,
if the lights in your picture are on the right Side,
the darkest shade in the groundwork must be
placed on the right, and vice versa. See that
the blackground be smooth, the dark shades of
rich rown or een, and the li ht of a
French blue, etc.gr Then— g gr y,

I. Paint the dark shades with black crayon,
and rub it in with a soft cork. The cork pencils
ready prepared are best for that purpose, or rub-
bers of soft leather will answer.

2. Put in the light clear shades as they belong
with the soft and medium crayons, using care
in blending to avoid a dingy and dirty appear-
ance.

3. Lay on the brown and other colors. When
it is necessary to put brown over black, do not
rub the two together; use your finger, as well as
the cork.

4. In finishing the picture use hard crayon,
laying on in lines, and blend with cork.

Having a variety of colors for other styles of
painting, you can use your judgment in selecting
from your boxes. You must have a box of soft
and a box of hard crayons to obtain what you
need. Try your colors first on a piece of waste
paper.

Do not expect it will be right by laying on
colors, once. You must work line over line
many times and carefully. Do not soil your pic.
ture in the delicate parts. In addition to your
colors in boxes, furnish yourself with black and
white crayons of different tones, and a supply of
dry carmine. \Ve prefer the lump to the encil.
French blue is much used to produce clear ights.
The paper must be some available tint, as its
color appears through almost all portions of the
work. A low-toned olive tint has been found
very desirable. Have your paper an inch or
two longer than the proposed picture; sketch
the design lightly with black crayon N o. I, mak-
ing sky and broad tints with the flat surface of
broken pieces of crayon (I and 2) rubbed in with
the finger. The breadths of the nearer and re-
mote distances are put in with broken pieces,
blended together. Mountains, trees, etc., are
drawn in with black crayon, then tinted and
glazed with colored crayon.

DRA WING (Crayzm), Mode of Fixing
by :leam. —Get a tin vessel with a tight-fitting
lid, and a pipe projecting from the side, havin
ahead performed with holes. Into this vesse
put two ounces of the strongest alcohol and two
drachms of powdered sugar-candy. Boil it over
a spirit lamp. Direct the steam to the back of
your picture, until the papers and colors are per.
fectly saturated.

BRA WINGS, (Perm?) T a Prererw.—I. Best
alcohol, two ounces; camphor, four grains; after
dissolved, to be a plied, if on ordinary drawing
paper, to the bac ; if on Bristol boards, coat it
rapidly on the drawing side ; then hang up to dry.
Wash over the penciled surface very care:

PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE FINE ARTS.

fully with milk, from which the entire fatty parts
or cream has been removed, and dry in the open
air on blotting-paper. Water in which has been
dissolved at little isinglass will answer the same
purpose. —— 3. Prepare a solution in moderate
strength of bleached shellac in alcohol, wash
over the back of the sheet of paper with this,
and the drawing on the front will become fixed.
In this way, as will be understood, there is no
risk of smearing the lines of the drawing.

BRA WINGS, Simple met/zed qf Copying.—
Silvered albumen paper, after being washed, may
be conveniently used for copying negatlves as
well as positives. It keeps for weeks, and be-
comes sensitive to light only after ex osure to
the vapors of aqua ammonia, technical y termed
“smoking with ammonia.” Dr. H. Vogel has
greatl simplified the latter process by substitu-
ting fiir the liquid ammonia the powder of car-
bonate of ammonia. He thoroughly impregnates
a piece of felt or cloth with this powder, andlays
it under the silvered sheet, separated from it by
a piece of blotting-paper. The negative is plac-
ed on the to , and the back covered, and the
whole is rea y for the copying frame. One im-
pregnation with the carbonate of ammonia serves
for several copies. So very simple is the opera-
tion that Dr. Vogel has made use of it in public
libraries for copying complicated drawings. He
places the silvered paper, with the substratum of
carbonate of ammonia and the drawing on top,
between two plates of glass, and, exposing it to
the light of the window, obtains a copy quite
distinct in all its details, while he himself may be
occupied with reading or otherwise. The copy
obtained is, of course, in white lines upon black
ground. Such photographs merely require to be
treated with soda when intended for long preser-
vation. The are generally, however, not de-
signed to be ept a great while.

EJVGRA VING 5y PHOTOGRAPIIY. —
The photographic picture is taken upon sensitized
glass, just as in the ordinary carte—de-visite, pro-
ducing a negative from which any number of po-
sitives may be taken. The picture may be a
portrait, a landscape, 3. group of sculpture, an
architectural facade, or what not—anything, pro-
vided it assumes the form of a glass negative.
The positives obtained from this are not upon
sensitized paper, but upon a thin film of gelatine,
combined with bichromate of ammonia. When
light has been allowed to pass for a suflicient
length of time through the negative to the posi-
tive, it shows its action in a peculiar way on the
film: wherever the light is the strongest (as in
the high lights of the picture), the film is render-
ed insoluble; wherever it is the weakest (as in
the shadows), the film remains easily soluble;
wherever it is intermediate (as in the half tints),
the gelatine becomes partially soluble. It is the
bichromate of ammonia that renders the gelatine
susceptible to these peculiar varieties of effect.
We may add that the electric light now furnish-
es a wonderful aid in taking the positive, render-
ing the photographer independent of times and
seasons, day and night, bright days and dull

ays.

We have, then, a positive picture, taken upon
a film of gelatine containing bichromate of am-
monia. This film being next placed in warm
water, the substance dissolves away in the un-
equal degree just intimated; it becomes thinner
In the parts least acted on by the light; the parts

 

277

most acted on are scarcely dissolved at all; while
the medium degrees of action produce medium
degrees of dissolving or thinning. What is the
total result? The film has become a sort of bas-
relief; there is a picture of raised parts and de-
pressed parts, owmg to variations in the thick
ness of the film; and these variations are so
beautifully graduated as to )roduce all the tints
and half tints from high lig ts to deep shadows.

The pressure, which next ensues, is not the
least curious part of the operation. It seems
scarcely conceivable that a thin film of gelatine
will act as a mold to impress its inequalities upon
aplate of metal; yet such it certainly does. A
beautifully smooth metal sheet is prepared, con.
sisting of lead alloyed with a little antimony; the
alloy is nearly (but not quite) the same as stereo-
type metal; it has a nicely determined degree of
hardness (or softness, whichever we like to call
it), settled after a number of experimental trials.
The gelatine film is placed upon the lead plate,
and the two between two steel plates, the group
is placed in a hydraulic press, where an intense
pressure is brought to bear upon it. This pres-
sure amounts to as much as forty tons, even for
a small picture, and rises to two hundred tons
(nearly half a million pounds) when the dimen-
sions are large. We might suppose that this
overwhelming force would crus the delicate
film into undistinguishable fragments. Nothing
of the kind. The protuberances or raised parts

ress themselves bodily into the surface of the
ead, producing a sunken or intaglio effect in all
the places where the film presents a raised or
cameo effect, and vice versa. It is wonderful to
see how perfect is this action upon the plate, the
picture appearing almost as if the graver had pro-
duced it. And it is scarcely less wonderful that
the thin film of gelatine will bear twenty or thirty
of these pressures, transferring its picture to
twenty or thirty plates before being worn
out.

Lastly comes the printing. If the lead plate
were inked in the ordinary way with inking-
rollers, and passed through an ordinary printing-
press, the print obtained would consist simply of
masses of black and white, without an grada-
tions or half tints whatever; this won (1 result
naturally from the peculiar mode in which the
plate is prepared. An ink or color, however, is
got ready, consisting of water and gelatine mix-
ed with some kind of lpigment or paint. This
ink, instead of being lig tly applied by means of
a roller, is poured as a.liquid all over the plate;
a sheet of paper is placed upon it; a light pres.
sure is applied, sufficient to squeeze out all the
superfluous ink; and the paper is allowed thus
to remain until the gelatine in the ink has “set,”
or slightly solidified. The print, when removed,
is dipped in a fixingbath, which~renders the ink
permanent.

ENGRA VIN GS, Cleaning and Preservation
of.—In commencing to restore an engraving,
some attention must be given to the kind of in-
jur it has sutfered. A general brown color more
or ess deep, resulting from atmospheric action
only, is the least possible change. Spots and
stains, caused by ink, colored fluids, oil or insects,
must be first treated, and all pencil marks removed
by India-rubber or bread crumbs. A fluid acid,
0 tained by dissolving I oz. of crystals of oxalic
acid in :4 pt. of warm water, may be used for ap-
plication to all stains, and the paper should be

278

DICTIONAR} 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

wet with it thoroughly where spots of any kind
exist.

Excepting in a few cases, this acid will not
cause the removal of stains immediately, but
generally it combines with the bases of them,
and they are removed by subsequent steps; the
thorough wetting should be done a few hours
before proceeding to clean the engraving. The
engraving should be placed in a shallow tub or
other vessel, and allowed' to rest upon a piece of
open cotton stuff, or millinet. This material of
suitable dimensions, should have 2 rods or sticks
sewn to opposite edges. These sticks will hang
over the sides of the vessel, and permit the prints
to be withdrawn or moved without any risk of
injury, and they should remain in soak with
warm or cold water for 12 or 24 hours. When
the prints no longer discolor the water on being
agitated, the fluid should be withdrawn, and
enough clean water added to cover them. Half
a pound of chloride of lime should be made into
a paste with cold water, and stirred up with 2
qts. of water, and allowed to settle for 6 hours.
Part of the clear solution should be added to the
bath till the smell of chlorine is perceived, and
the prints should be moved to facilitate the ac-
tion. In very bad cases, 1 oz. of muriatic acid
mixed with a pint of water may be added, and
when the bleaching is effected the prints should
be well washed with fresh water and slowly dried.

E T CHIN G. — A method of engraving on
plates with acids, which are poured into lines
drawn on the plate, covered with a wax ground.
The plate is warmed, the ground is applied, and
distributed evenly by heat, and when cool, a
bodkin, etc., is used to engrave, by removing the
wax, so as to expose the plate in lines suited to
the sketch. The acid is then applied to bite away
the exposed portion of the plate; it is prevented
from acting elsewhere by the untouched wax, and
when it has acted sufficiently the wax is removed
and the sketch printed from.—Etr/zing Ground.
—- Melt in a glazed earthen vessel 2 oz. of pow—
dered asphaltum, then add I oz. of Burgundy
pitch; melt, and add 1% oz. of virgin wax; mix
well, pour into warm water and incorporate the
whole with the hands.— T ranrparcnl Etc/tin
Ground.—Resin, I 02., virgin wax, 2 oz.; me t
'in an earthen pi kin. Or turpentine varnish
mixed with a sma 1 quantity of oxide of bismuth.
—Borderz'ng Wax.—-Burgundy itch, 3 lbs.,
bees’-wax, I 1b.; melt, and add 12 pint of sweet
oil. Pour it into water and work it with the
hands—Etching Fluz'a’fir Coppers—l. Nitrous
acid, I part, water, 5 parts; mix gradually, and
add the size of a hazel nut of sal ammoniac to
each pint.—- 2. Verdigris, alum, sea salt, and sal
ammoniac, of each I part, vinegar, 2 parts; dis-
solve, add water, 4 parts, boil a minute, and
cool. — 3. Iodine, 2 parts, iodide of potassium,
5 parts, water, 8 parts.—Etr/zz'ngFluid for Steel.
-— l. Pyroligneous acid and nitric acid, each I
part, water, 6 parts.-——2. Iodine, I 02., iron filings,
% drachm, water, 4 oz.; digest until dissolved.
—3. Hydrochloric acid, 10 parts, distilled water,
70 parts, chlorate of potash, 2 parts. Dissolve
the chlorate in the water, and add the acid. Di-
luted with water for use to the strer}gth required.

FADED PHOTOGRAPHS, ’ o Reproduce.
—The pictures are, in the first place, thoroughly
impregnated with wax, care being taken to re
move all excess by hot ironing, subsequently
rubbing the surface with a tuft of cotton. This

operation itself deepens the contrasts of the pic.
ture, and brings out many minor details previ-
ously invisible, the yellowish-whites being ren-
dered more trans arent, while the half tones and
shadows retain t eir brown, opaque character.
This picture, thus prepared, is then used as a
negative, and employed for printing in the usual
wa .

ELI! SS, Cleaning for a P/zotograpk. — Im-
merse for several hours in a strong solution of
common washing soda, rinse, and rub with alco-
hol and Joseph paper. Kurz varies from this a
little. After the soda bath, he puts the glass
into a nitric acid and water, equal parts, for 2
hours. Then wash under tap, and rub with a
sponge, rinse, and coat with filtered albumen
(white of one egg to 24 ounces of water, well
beaten).

GLASS, To Etc/r upon.——Procure several
thick, clear pieces of crown glass, and immerse
them in melted wax, so that each may receive a
complete coating, or pour over them a solution
of wax in benzine. \Vhen perfectly cold draw
on them, with a fine steel point, flowers, trees,
houses, portraits, etc. Whatever parts of the
drawing are intended to be corroded with the
acid should be perfectly free from the least par.
ticle of wax. When all these drawings are finish-
ed the pieces of glass must be immersed one by
one in a square leaden box or receiver, where
they are to be submitted to the action of hydro-
fluoric acid gas, made by acting on wdered
fluor—spar by concentrated sulphuric ac1d.

When the glasses are sufficiently corroded they
are to be taken out, and the wax is to be removed
by first dipping them in warm and then in hot
water, or by washing with turpentine or benzine.
Various colors may be applied to the corroded
parts of the glass, whereby a very fine painting
may be executed. In the same manner sentences
and initials of names may be etched on wine-
glasses, tumblers, etc.

LEAF, T a false Impression: on—Hold oiled
paper in the smoke of a lamp or of pitch, until
it becomes coated with the smoke; to this paper
apply the leaf of which you wish an impression,
having previously warmed it between your hands,
that it may be pliable. Place the lower surface
of the leaf upon the blackened surface of the oil
paper, that the numerous veins that are so pro-
minent on this side may receive from the paper
a portion of the smoke. Lay a paper over the
leaf, and then press it gently upon the smoked
paper, with the fingers or with a small roller
(covered with woolen cloth, or some like soft
material), so that every partof the leaf may come
in contact with the sooted oil-pa er. A coating
of the smoke will adhere to the eaf. Then re—
move the leaf carefully, and place the blackened
surface on a sheet of white paper, not ruled, or
in a book prepared for the purpose, covering the
leaf with a clean slip of paper, and pressing upon
it with the fingers, or roller, as before. Thus
may be obtained the impression of a leaf, show-
ing the perfect outlines, together with an accurate
exhibition of the veins which extend in ever; di-
rection through it, more correctly than the nest
drawing. And this process is so simple, and the
materials so easily obtained, that any person,
with a little practice to enable him to apply the
right quantity of smoke to the oil-paper, and give
the leaf a proper pressure, can prepare beautiful
«leaf impressions, such as a naturalist would be

 

PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE FINE ARTS.

proud to possess. There is another, and we
think a better method of taking leaf impressions,
than the preceding one. The only difference in
the process consists in the use of printing ink,
instead of smoked oil-paper.

LEAF, To make a Fac-rz'mile in Copper.—
This beautiful experiment can be performed by
any person in possession of a common galvanic
battery. The process is as follows z—Soften a
piece of gutta percha over a candle, or before a
fire; knead it with the moist fingers upon a table,
until the surface is perfectly smooth, and large
enough to cover the leaf to be copied; lay the
leaf flat upon the surface, and press every part
well into the gutta percha. In about five min-
utes the leaf maybe removed, when if the opera-
tion has been carefully performed a perfect im-
pression of the leaf will be made on the gutta

rcha. This must now be attached to the wire
in connection with the zinc end of the battery
(which can easily be done by heating the end of
the wire, and pressing it into the gutta percha),
dusted well over with the best black lead, with a
camel’s hair brush—the object of whichis to render
it a conductor of electricity—and then completely
immersed in a saturated solution of sulphate of cop.
per. A piece of copper attached to the wire in con-
nection with the copper end of the battery, must
also be inserted into the copper solution, facing
the gutta percha but not touching it; this not
only acts as a conductor to the electricity, but
also maintains the solution of copper of a per-
manent strength. In a short time, the copper
will be found to creep over the whole surface of
the gutta. percha, and in about twenty-four hours
a thick deposit of cop er will be obtained, which
may then be detachedp from the mould. The ac-
curacy with which a leaf may‘gthus be cast is
truly surprising. I have in my possession a cast
of a hazel-leaf made by the process, which no-
body would take to be a production of art; every
fibre and nerve, in fact, the minutest part, is de-
lineated with the utmost fidelity.

LEAF PRIN TIN G.——After warming the
leaf between the hands, apply printing ink, by
means of a small leather ball containing cotton,
or some soft substance, or with the end of the
finger. The leather ball (and the finger when
used for that purpose), after the ink is applied to
it, should be pressed several times on a piece of
leather or some smooth surface, before each ap-
plication to the leaf, that the ink may be smoothly
and evenly applied. After the under surface of
the leaf has been sufficiently inked, apply it to
the paper, where you wish the impression; and,
after covering it with a slip of paper, use the
hand or roller to press upon it, as described in
the former process.

L! T 11 OGRA PHI C PAPER. — I. Starch 6
02.; gum arabic 2 02.; alum I 01.; make a strong
solution of each separately, in hot water, mix,
and appl it while still warm to one side of
leaves 0 paper, with a clean painting-brush.
When dry, a second and a third coat may be
Eyen; lastly, press it, to make it smooth—2.

we the paper three coats of thin size, one coat
of good white starch, and one coat of a solution
ofgamboge in water; the whole to be applied
With a sponge, and each coat to be allowed to
dry before the other is applied. The whole of
the solutions should be fresh made.

_ Lithographic paper is used to write on with
lithographic ink. The writing may be trans-

 

279

ferred by simply moistening the back of the
paper, and evenly pressing it on the stone, when
a reversed copy is obtained, which may be used
to print from, and will yield corrected copies,
resembling the original writing or drawing.

Ll TH OGRA PH YZ—There are two modes of
lithography in general use. For the one a draw-
ing is made on the lithographic stone, with a
lithographic crayon, or with lithographic ink,
and when the design is dry, avery weak solution
of oil of vitriol, or muriatic acid, is poured upon
the stone, which acts by removing the alkali from
the chalk or ink used to draw the design, and
thus leaves them in a permanent and insoluble
form. The acid also removes a very small por-
tion of the surface of the stone occupied by the
lights of the drawing, and renders it more ab-
sorbent. In the other method, the design is
made onlithographic paper, (see the last article,)
which paper, on being moistened, laid on the
stone, and passed through the press, leaves its
design on the stone, which is then acted on by
acid as before described. To print from stones
so prepared, water is thrown on them, and the
roller, charged with printing ink, passed over
them, when the paper is a plied, and a copy is
obtained by the action of t. e press. The same
process must be had recourse to for each copy.
The nature of the stone is such that it retains
with great tenacity the resinous and oily sub-
stances contained in the ink or crayon employed
to form the design, and also absorbs water
freely; this, combined with the peculiar affin-
ity between resinous and oily substances, and
their mutual power of repelling water, occasions
the ink on the printing roller to adhere to the
design, or resinous portion, and to leave untouch-
ed the lights or watered parts of the stone. The
stones are prepared by polishing in the ordinary
way; the style of work for which they are in~
tended determining the degree of labor bestowed
upon them. For crayon drawings, the surface
should have a fine grain, but the finish of the
stone must depend upon the desired softness of
the intended drawing; for writing or drawing on
in ink, the surface must receive a higher polish,
and must be finished off with pumice stone and
water. The best lithographic stones are obtain-
ed from Solenhofen, near Munich, and from
Pappenheim, on the banks of the Danube. The
white lias which lies immediatelypnder the blue,
near Bath, also yields good lithographic stones.

MAGIC PHOTOGRAPHS, To Make.—
Take, in the first place, an ordinary print—a
card-picture, for instance—on albumen paper,
beneath the negative in the usual way, and. when
sufficiently printed, let it be carefully washed in
the dark room, so as to remove all the free ni-
trate of silver, etc. Now immerse it in the fol-
lowing solution, also in the dark room: saturated
solution bichloride of mercury (corrosive subli-
mate), one ounce; hydrochloric acid, one drachm.
The saturated solution is previously prepared by
putting into water more bichloride of mercury
than it will dissolve by shaking in about twelve
hours.

The print will gradually be bleached in this
liquid, in the ordinary meaning of the word—-
that is, it will disappear; but the fact is, the print
is still there—~its color alone is changed, a double
salt having been formed of mercury and silver,
which is white, as many of our readers, who
have been in the habit of intensifying with a

280

‘DICTIONAR Y OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

mercurial salt, are aware. As soon as the print
has quite disappeared, the paper is thoroughly
washed and dried in the dark room; it is also

reserved between folds of orange-colored paper,
In order to keep it from the action of light, for
the surface is still in some measure sensitive to
licht.

x,The bleaching of the print——that is, its con-
version into a white salt—is effected more quick-
ly by keeping it in motion in the mercurial solu-
tion.

As we said before, the print has not been
bleached in reality—~the substance which origin—
ally formed it is still there, together with a new
substance, 3. salt of mercury. But the two salts
of silver and mercury may be easily brought out
and made visible by several solutions, such as
sulphide of ammonium, solution of liydrosul-
phuric acid; in fact, any of the soluble sulphides,
ammonia and hyposulphite of soda. The latter
salt is used in preference to the others. Small
pieces of blotting-paper, therefore, of the same
size as the prints, are cut out and steeped in a
saturated solution of hyposulphite of soda, and
then dried.

The magic photographs are packed, as before
stated, between folds of orange-colored paper;
the papers dipped in hyposulphite of soda are the
developers, and may be packed between two
sheets of common writing-paper. The develop-
ment of the image is effected in the following
manner: place the albumen paper which contains
the whitened print on a pane of glass, print side
upward; on this lay the dry piece of blotting.
paper that has been previously dipped in hypo-
sulphite of soda. Moisten the latter thoroughly,
then place over it a pane of glass, and upon this
a weight, to bring the two pieces of paper into
intimate contact. In a very short time the pic-
ture will appear in all its original detail, and of a
sepia tone.

MICROSCOPIC PHOTOGRAPHY. —
There are two kinds of so~called microscopic
hotographs. The first are small photographs of
large objects, to be examined with a magnifying
glass, or even with a microscope. These are
chiefly made as a curiosity and for amusement,
but occasionally for a useful purpose. In pre-
paring micrometric scales, for instance, avery
small photograph of a large measure is made to
be used with either the microscope, spectroscope,
solar or hydro-oxygen microscope, or magic-
lantern. It is one of the most indispensable tools
of the investigator. Such microscopic photo-
graphs may be either made by a common photo-
graphic camera by providing the tube between
the lenses with a diaphragm with very small
aperture, in order to have a perfectly sharp im-
age, and placing the object to be photographed
at a very great distance; or the photograph may
be made with a common microscope, by inclos-
ing the stage (which carries the object to be
examined) in a box which excludes all light ex-
cept that which falls through the tube. If, then,
in front of the tube, which may be either in ver-
tical or horizontal position, a well-illuminated
object is placed, the microscope lenses will throw
a very small image of it on the stage, in the same
way as the lenses of a photographer’s camer
throw a large image on the ground glass. The
operation of producing the picture is exactly the
same as in common photographs, except that ex-
traordinary care is required for the perfect pro-

 

duction of such small images, in which a single
grain of dust is sufficient to ruin the whole.

Use has been made of this means, in time of
war, to carry microscopic maps of fortifications,
etc., mclosed in a Watchcase, or even in a ring,
which by their minuteness escaped detection un-
der the most scrutinizing search.

_The second and much more important kind of
microscopic photographs, which we shall describe
in‘greater detail, are the enlarged photographs of
microscopic objects. They can not be producedl
by‘ a common photographer’s camera, and re-
quire either a microscope or a photographic ca-
mera especially made for the purpose.

First there is required a common compound
microscope placed in a horizontal position. The
end of the tube which commonly carries the eye-
piece is inserted in a photographer’s camera-box,
from which the tube and lenses have been re-
moved. The tube of the microscope is provided
with a diaphragm, which excludes all light from
the box, except that which enters through the
microscope lenses. The object to be photo-
graphed is held in place on the stage with pro-
perly applied small springs.

For the illumination, an independent mirror,
diaphragm, lens, and blue plate glass,may be used,
the latter for the purpose of excluding, during
the adjustment of the boxes, all red, orange, and
yellow rays which do not contribute to forming
the image. The focus found with this blue light
will better coincide with the chemical focus (which
alone makes the picture) than that found with
the full light. During the exposure for making
the picture the blue glass is removed, as the red,
orange, and yellow rays intercepted by it do not
interfere, even if the microscope is not achroma‘
tic, and the blue glass itself can not possibly in-
crease the chemical action of the light, but on the
contrary absorbs some rays and retards the ope-
ration, the opinion of certain photographers to
the contrary notwithstanding.

The whole system for illumination may be
turned around an axis below, causing the light
not to fall through the microscope but obliquely
on the object, so that less light from the mirror,
but most from the small object near passes
through the microscope into the camera-box,
where the focusing is done by means of the
ground glass, and this subsequently replaced by
the prepared sensitized surface in the usual man-
ner. The use of this oblique light is of the ut~
most importance, as well in common observa-
tions of very delicate structures by high powers
with the eye, as in the microscopic photography
of the same. Some objects are so exceedingly
thin, and the details are so delicate, that they are
drowned in the flood of light, when the illumi-
nation throws the light directly through the axis
of the whole microsco e. The eye sees too much
light; much more 0 the light, in fact, than of
the object intended to be seen. But when the
light is thrown oblique] on the object, so that,
not the direct ray from t e reflecting mirror, but
that coming from the illuminated object reaches
the eye, details are seen, impossible to distinguish
in any other way. Also in photographing With
such oblique light, details may be photographed
which with direct light never could he obtained
at all. More than that even; by proper arrange-
ments details have been photographed which
never have been seen by the eye. . Thus, the
markings on one of the so-called diatoms, tho

PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE FINE ARTS.

leurosigma angulatum, of which a_ common
microscope shows no trace, and which With _a
good microscope can only be seen by oblique
illumination as lines, or by stronger power as a
set of triple lines crossing one another at angles
of sixty degress, with the highest powers of the
best microscope appear to be hexagons, arranged
as in a honeycomb, thus revealing that .the lines
seen by lower magnifying powers are but illusrons,
produced by the regular arrangement of the hex-
agons. These now are shown, by means of
microscopic photography, to be no hexagons at
all, but circular depressions, which give.the illu-
sion of hexagons by their arrangement, in which
every circle is surrounded by six others.

NA TUIt’E PRINTING, Drama”; Pracessqf.
—-The process is one by which images of foliage
may be taken by any who have leisure and choose
to devote an hour or two to the registration of
the beautiful forms of our leaves. The process,
by its simplicity, commends itself; and the results

. ined are of the most charming character. The
gienna process of nature printing has achieved
much, and produced results of the most admirable
character; but the process necessitates the use of
dried vegetable specimens, in order to the pro-
duction of the image. While this is at least no
drawback in the case of ferns, and is perhaps
even an advantage, yet it strongly militates
against the process in the case of many other
plants. In order to meet this difficulty, Dr. Dres-
ser suggested an “Improved Nature Printing”

rocess which he patented, in conjunction with

r. Lyon Playfair, in which impressions are ta-
ken from the living plant, and which may be
substantially described as follows: A sheet of
foolsca writing-paper should be provided, a
handfu of fine cotton-wool, a piece of muslin,
one or more tubes of common oil-paint (according
to the color required), a little sweet-oil, and a
quantity of smooth. soft, cartridge-paper, or bet-
ter, plate-paper. Having placed the sheet of
foolscap-paper while doubled (the two thickness-
es making it a little softer), on a smooth table,
squeeze from the tube about as much oil-color
as would cover a shilling, and place this on one
corner of the sheet of foolscap; now form a “dab-
ber” by inclosing a quantity of the cotton-wool
in two thicknesses of muslin, and tying it up so
as to give it roundness of form. Take up a por-
tion of the oil~paint from the corner of the paper,
with the dabber, and by dabbing give the central
portion of the sheet of foolscap a coat of color.
This dabbing may be continued for half an hour
or more with advantage, taking a small quantity
more color when the paper becomes dry; two or
three drops of sweet-oil may now be added to the
paper and distributed by the aid of the dabber,
if the color is thick, when the paper will be fully
prepared for use.

The paper ma be left for an hour or two after
being first coate with color without injury, and,
indeed, this delay is favorable, for until the paper
becomes impregnated with oil, the results desired
are not so favorable as they become after the pa-
%r is more fully enriched with this material.

hile the color is soaking into the paper, a num-
ber of leaves should be gathered which are per-
fect in form and free from dust; and these can
be kept fresh by placing them in an earthenware
pan, the bottom of which is covered with a damp
cloth, but it will be well to place a damp cloth
over the orifice of the pan also. Selecting a

 

28!

woolly, hairy leaf, place it on the painted ortion
of the sheet of foolscap, and dab it with t e dab-
ber till it acquires the color of the paint used;
this being done turn the leaf over and dab the
other side; now lift it from the paint paper by
the stalk, and place it with care between a folded

ortion of the “plate” or “cartridge” paper, and
1f the stalk of the leaf appears to be in the way,
cut it off with a pair of scissors; now bring down
the upper portion of the folded piece of paper
upon the leaf, and rub the paper externally with
the finger, or a soft rag, bringing the paper thus
in contact with every portion of the leaf. If the
paper is now opened, and the leaf removed, a.
beautiful impression of both sides of the leaf will
be found remaining. In like manner, impres-
sions of any tolerably flat leaves can be taken;
but harsh leaves will be found most difficult, and
should hence be avoided by the beginner. While
the paper is yet rich in color, downy leaves should
be chosen ; but color may at any moment be ad-
ded, care being always taken to distribute the
paint evenly over the paper with the dabber be.
fore the latter is applied to the leaf, and the dab-
ber is always removed from the painted paper
till the color is exhausted, when the paper is
again replenished from the reserve in the corner.

As the color on the paper becomes less and
less in quantity, smoother leaves may be employ-
ed; and when the paper seems to be almost
wholly without paint, the smoothest leaves will
prove successful, for these require extremely
little color. Should the natural color of the leaf
be desired, it can be got by using paint of the
color required; but, in many cases, purely arti-
ficial tints produce the most pleasing and artistic
results; thus, burnt sienna gives a very pleasing
red tint; and of all colors this will be found to
work with the greatest ease.

By the process now described, the most beauti-
ful results can be gained; but the effect will be
better, if, when the impression is being rubbed
off, the leaf, together with the paper in which it:
is inclosed, is placed on something soft, as halfa
quire of blotting paper. Should the first attempt
not prove very satisfactory, a little experience
will be found to be all that is required, and now
the most common leaf will be seen to have a.
form of the most lovely character.

Collections of leaves of forest-trees will prove
of the deepest interest, or of all the species which
we have of any kind of plant; thus, if the leaves
of the black, red, American, and golden currant
be printed together with that of the gooseberry,
all of which belong to one botanical genus or
group, the variation or modification of the form
will be seen to be of the deepest interest.

NE GA T I VE, Fixing tine—Use a saturated
solution of hyposulphate of soda. In some of
the galleries they add I ounce of cyanide of potas-
sium to 4 quarts of the hypo solution. -

NEGA TIVE, An Auxiliary. — One of the
novelties introduced at a late convention, was a
negative for producing a watered or grained efl'ect
over such parts of the print as may be desired.
The result is obtained by printing for a few mo-
ments under a fixed position, and then changing
ever so little the position of the auxiliary negative.
Imitations of watered silk, also of grains of wood
can be readily obtained, and serve to give a new
character to the picture.

NE 0/! T I VE BA THS (old), Preservation (y‘l
—Worn out negative baths are usually got rid of

282

DICTIONAR Y OF E VER Y—DA Y WAN TS.’

 

by precipitating the silver, reducing to metallic
state, fusing, and again dissolving. This is a
process so long and complicated that most photo-
gra hers shun to make it, and pour their old
bat 5 into the general receptacle for slops, to be
sold or got rid of in the easiest way possible.

Mr. Brooks in the “Year Book” proposes the
reduction of the negative bath to carbonate of
silver to purify it. Dilute the bath to about
three times its bulk with distilled water, neutral-
ize with carbonate of soda until a slight turbid-
‘ity is produced, and sun for several hours; then
decant, if necessary, and add sufficient carbonate
of soda, free from chloride, to precipitate all of
the silver as carbonate. After well washing this
precipitate in water, it is in condition to be dis.
solved in nitric acid of a proper strength to yield
a new negative bath.

NE GA T 1 VE Prererver:.—All sorts of contriv-
ances have been suggested for preserving nega-
tives, but most of them are cumbersome and ex-
pensive. It is now proposed to put them into
paper envelopes, and set them aside in boxes,
after they have been properly designated. The
paper protects them from rubbing, and the ex-
pense of grooves, partitions, slides, and other
contrivances' is avoided. They occupy the least

ossible bulk when put up in this way, and if
aid on edge in boxes, like shelves, can be readily
removed in case of fire. Envelopes are now
made of the sizes to fit the glasses usually em-
plo ed by photographers.

gAlN TIN G, 0i1.——-First, the general outline
should be familiar, and as correct a sketch of the
desired picture obtained as possible. The re-
quisites for a “fitting out,” consist of colors,
brushes, palette, palette-knife, canvas, easel,
hand-rest, oils and varnish. Brushes are round
and flat, the latter is used for the sky, the badger
brush is used to soften and blend together sky
and other parts. Clean your brushes by first
wiping with dry cloth, and afterwards wash in
turpentine, rinsing in cold water. To prepare
canvas, coat the material with strong warm
isinglass size, when dry coat with oil paint. To
facilitate drying, litharge, sugar of lead, etc.,
may be added. Magilp is an indispensable ar-
ticle in oil painting, it tempers the colors, and
hastens the drying; it is made of equal parts of
strong mastic and clarified oil; copal varnish is
often used instead of mastic. The different oils
used, are, linseed, poppy, drying, and nut-oil;
linseed is recommended in preference to others.
When smooth surface is desired, it is requisite to
rub the surface with pumice, sand, and water.
Light while painting should fall over the left
shoulder; a North light is preferable, because
more uniform. '

First make your sketch; you can first trace it
with charcoal or white crayon; then mark cor-
rectly with pencil, dusting off the crayon as you
proceed. Begin by preparing tints for the sky,
get sufficient white from the tube at once and
thin with oil. Mix the following colors as near
Elie tints as the subject demands, viz., white,

rench or permanent blue, vermilion, Naples
yellow, and yellow ochre. The same tints
strengthened with more color will do for
the mountains, more ye110w ochre for mid
distance, and work gradually to the foreground,
for which mix a set of requisite tints, all sepa-
rate, and lace the color at once where it shall
remain. his completes the first painting, and

 

we proceed with the second, third, and finishin
and observations—Second Painting. The firs
painting should be perfectly dry before com-
mencing the second. The less drying oils used
the better, for when paints are used in their na-
tural state they don’t sink as much, and give bet—
ter satisfaction. Prepare the palette with the
required tints for the clouds, and paint them in
with a little more attention to the shape, and
light, and shade. When done, soften with a
blender. Next in order come the mountains;
attend more particularly to their shapes and dif-
ferent shades. Let the early painting be of a
light style of color, for, in finishing, the colors
are made much cooler by the process of glazing
and scumbling. You find that the colors, while
drying, sink, and partake a little of the color be-
neath them. Therefore this second painting
should give a good idea of the effect of what the
picture should be.—T 12in! Bu’nfz'ng. It. may be
requisite to aid the effect of the distance by a few
touches of scumbling and glazing, and also in
bringing out desirable effects in the middle-
ground. Such tints can be used for these pur-
poses as occasion requires, either lighter or
darker than the parts to which they are applied.
When advanced thus in your painting, do not
attempt too much at one sitting, as the different
glazings may interfere with each other, destroy-
ing the transparent effect. It is better to allow
the colors to dry gradually, and repeat the glaz-
ing another time.——0bsematiom. I. The sky, in
some pictures, is very important, having an in-
fluence over the entire painting. The tints are
more or less gradually mixed with white. They
are kept lighter as they approach the sun. The
colors vary, but the tints should be produced by
few. The most useful sky colors are white,
French or permanent blue, vermilion, madder
lake, Naples yellow, and yellow ochre.

2. The bounding sky line, or extreme distance,
varies very much in tone—sometimes seen plain-
ly, and at. others scarcely distinguished from the
horizontal tones. You need suitable colors for
these effects. Sometimes distant mountains have
their summits quite visible, and their bases, al.
though much nearer, not seen. This is caused
by mists and vapors. Scumbling is necessary to
obtain this effect.

3. If possible, paint in the distance, when the
sky is moist with the same tints, only stronger,
as the case may be. Otherwise, scumble over
the lower part of the sky at the next painting.
This produces a good effect.

4. Nearer the foreground, as objects advance,
a little more distinctness may be given. Acci-
dental touches of light are important in separat~
ing the foliage and other objects through the
picture from distance to foreground. Indian red,
terre verte, Venetian red, Antwerp blue, eme-
rald green, and raw sienna, add to the colors
enumerated. Grays produced by vermilion and
emerald green can be varied by a little Vandyke
brown or Naples yellow. _

5. The color and shape of trees and the dispo-
sition of the branches should be carefully studied.
Pencil in the foliage against the sky, and all the
extreme parts, with a small brush neatly. .

6. In foregrounds the landscape 15 not intend-
ed to be painted with botanical accuracy. Nor
should you be too broad, coarse, and careless,
but finish with a general harmony of the whole.

2. Let the distance and horizon meet together

PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE FINE ARTS.

283

 

'n a certain de ee, so as to know where each

'linishes and begins. Mid distance should be
made out more clearly, and attention paid to de-
tails of the foreground. _

8. When you have colors in owder, as is often
requisite, a glass slab, in ad ition to palette, IS
necessary, on which to mix and grind t em when
required. ' '

Figure drawing is indispensable in landscape
painting. Their introduction into landscapes
serve to enliven and break the monotony, and
also serve as measurement, whereby we form
ideas of the real size of objects. The hight of
an average figure is eight times that of its head.
It a erpendicular line is drawn, allow half of it
for tiie lower portion of the body, and half for
the upper, from shoulder to shoulder two heads

wrde.

PAINTINGS, To Preserve and Rattan.—
Many valuable paintings suffer premature decay,
from the attacks of a microscopic insect of the
mite class. The best method of preventing this
species of decay, is to add a few drops of creo-
sote to the aste and glue used to line the pic-
ture, as well)as to make a similar addition to the
varnish. If it has already commenced, the paint-
ing should be at once carefully cleaned and re-
lined, observing to employ a little creosote in the
way just mentioned. Paintings should be kept
in as pure an atmosphere as possible, and in a
moderately dry situation; as it is the presence of
sulphureted hydrogen in the air that blackens
the “lights,” and causes most of the middle tints
and shades to fade; and it is exposure to damp
that produces mouldiness and decay of the can-
vas. For this reason valuable paintings should
not be kept in churches, nor suspended against
heavy walls of masonry, especially in badly-ven-
tilated buildings. Excess of light, particularly
the direct rays of the sun, also acts injuriously on
paintings. The blackened lights of old pictures
may be instantly restored to their original hue,
by touching them with deutoxide of hydrogen,
diluted with 6 or 8 times its weight of water. The
part must be afterwards washed with a clean
sponge and water.

PAINTING, Water Colar.-—This is one of
the most beautiful, as well as most difficult, of
the fine arts. It will require, in addition to a
natural taste, much industry, which is indispens-
able to success. There are two kinds of water
colors in general use. We prefer using the moist
colors for landscape painting, and the dry cake
colors for flowers. Moist colors are ut in little
earthen cups, and fitted into a box, 1 complete
for painting out of doors. The materials for
water color painting are z—Colors, sable brushes,
paper, a drawing board, an eraser and a piece of
silk for wiping out the lights, a bottle of gum—
water, a soft sponge, a one and a half inch flat
camel’s hair brush, a china palette, or set of
saucers.

The most desirable paper for landscapes
should be rather rough on the surface. If too
smooth, your painting loses much of the bold-
ness characteristic of fine work. Whatman’s
pa er is thought the best.

n.selecting brushes, get those which come to
a pomt when charged with water, and, when
bent a little to one side, spring back again with-
out splitting.

Colors for landscapes are :—Gambo e, French
blue, raw and burnt sienna, yellow 0 re, Vene-

 

tian red, Vandyke brown, Prussian blue, olive
green, brown madder, crimson lake, Indian yel-
low, and a bottle of Chinese white.

To stretch and prepare the paper. The paint-
ing side of Whatman 5 paper is known by hold-
ing up the paper between your eye and the light,
and reading the name in proper position from
left to right. This must be the right side. Place
the paper on a table, and moisten the back well
with a soft s onge and clean water. If the paper
is thick, let it remain a short time, so that it may
become saturated; then place it in the frame of
your drawing board, confining it with the cross.
bars. Sometimes the paper is put on a plain
clamped drawing board, fastened with glue about
the edges.

Wiping out lights. The parts of the picture
(after the color is on) that require lights should ‘
be treated as follows :—Mark out with your brush
and-clean water the parts you wish lighter, and
then apply blotting paper to absorb the moisture ;
then wipe it hard with a silk handkerchief, and,
if not sufficient, repeat it. If you desire it still
lighter, use the rubber. -

Before using the eraser for extra high lights,
the painting must be perfectly dry.

Using the brush. After making suitable out-
lines with sepia or Indian ink, it is well to com~
mence brush work. As a rule, the brush for
broad shades should be pretty full of color ; but,
for finishing, all colors are worked much drier
with the point of the brush chiefly.

Outline. When the paper is properly stretch~
ed on the drawing board, and is sufficiently dry,
commence the outline. For landscape, sketch
lightly at first, so that the marks may be remov-
ed, if required, as hard rubbing is liable to disturb
the surface of the paper. Spare no pains in the
sketch, and bring out all the minute details. A
good sketch should be lightness in the extreme
distance, working stronger towards the fore-
ground. In the foreground,'boldness, with fine‘
ness of line on the light side, and depth on the
shade side.

In beginning to color, the drawing should be
raised at the back, to allow the color to flOW'
downward. Moisten all your drawing with a
large flat brush. Use blotting paper to absorb
the moisture. In your sketching-box should be
little cups. In one of these make a pale tint of
Indian yellow and crimson lake; in another,
French blue, with some of the other with it, so
as to make it pearly. Then work in the crimson
tint, addin a little more Indian yellow as you
approach t e horizon. Carry the tints to the
edge, and vary with burnt sienna, yellow, or the
pearly tint, according to your subject. When
dry, if the colors are not blended well together,
or are too dark, pass the flat brush with clean
water back and forth to subdue and soften them.
The whiteness of the pa er will thus be removed,
and form an undertone or colors that come over
them. The sky may now be tinted with French
blue, and clouds formed. The distant hills can
be carefully painted with pearly gray, and in-
creased as you roceed toward middle distance,
adding more or ess madder brown and yellow
ochre, as the case re uires. The distant hills
can be strengthened, if required, with‘French
blue, or warmed with crimson lake. Keep the
foreground paler than the general tone. Finish
the sky and hills before the trees are commenced.
Leave a httle opening new and then for the light

284

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

to strike through, beginning at the top and work-
mg downward with the brush well charged, vary-
ing the greens as you wish, making them of
gambo e, raw and burnt sienna. Increase the
tone 0 shadows with another brush, but the
same color, adding a trifle more blue and some
crimson lake for neutral tint. All foliage that
catches the sunlight should incline to a yellow
tint. Paint the trunks and stems with Vandyke
brown. Repeat the tints on foliage when dry,
until the required form and depth are obtained.
Gum will enrich and bring out the dark shadows.
Never use it in sky or distance, as it washes off
easily and disturbs all colors near it. For winter
trees, cobalt blue and Vandyke brown, mixed,
make good color for network and branches of
pine trees. Opaque white is serviceable in
finishing or introducing figures in the foreground.
Parts can be penciled in white, and stained with
requisite colors.

PAINTING (FLOWER: In Water Colarr.
—-The colors and materials requisite are carmine,
crimson lake, cobalt blue, Prussian blue, vermi-
lion; garflboge, raw Sienna, burnt Sienna, burnt
umber, Chinese white, yellow ochre, and Indian
ink-a set of saucers, dissolved gum arabic, and
a few sable brushes. Rose pink, royal scarlet, In-
dian yellow Indian red, indigo, sepia, Vandyke
brown, and emerald green, may also be added
for flowers of superior finish.

Whatman’s hot—pressed paper, stretched on a
board, as in landscape painting, is used to good
advantage. Bush flowers are generally painted
on London board, the ivory surface sometimes
preferred. Make an accurate and clean sketch
with fine pointed pencil, drawing the marks faint,
so as not to use rubber often. When sketched,
moisten all parts intended for painting witha
brush moderately filled with water. Never use

hard water, unless it has been boiled. This: arrangements easily suggest themselves.

1

 

 

according to tint. Alittle rose madder aéded
to cobalt may be used, as the tints should vary.
Shade the deeper parts with a little Prussian blue
added to it; and if a very deep tint is required,
add a little indigo.

Purple Flowers. Make the desired tint with
carmine and Prussian blue, increasing the shade
to the depth required, using more color and less
water. |

Scarlet Flowers. Paint the shades in with
cobalt blue and a little Indian red; then coat
smoothly with royal scarlet, or carmine and gam-
boge mixed, finishing up with carmine on the
shades. If coated with royal scarlet, add car-
mine in finishing.

White Flowers. Some are first shaded with
Indian ink, and others with neutral tint, made
of cobalt, rose madder, and Indian yellow.—
When dry, slightly tint some of the petals with
a weak shade of ellow ochre, some parts with
cobalt, others with a greenish neutral. The an-
thers, if not left white, should be done with per-
manent white added to Indian yellow, and care-
fully dotted with weak burnt sienna.

The Deep Crimson Rose. Shade all the pe-
tals more or less with Indian ink, until it would
pass for a finished drawing in Indian ink, and
then coat twice with strong carmine, finishing
deep shades with a little Prussian blue added to
carmine.

Pink Rose. Paint in the shades with cobalt
blue, and coat over with a pale shade of carmine;
with a little vermilion added. Repeat this on
some of the petals, until the requisite depth is
obtained. Some of the outside petals may need
a second coat of cobalt to give them a thin, trans-
parent appearance.

Arranging and Grouping. With those who
possess a good eye for color, the most pleasing
Some-

prepares the paper to receive the colors. Some ’ times the most pleasing efl'ects are obtained by
use a slight shade of neutral tint or Indian ink to , placing the light flowers in the center, such as
coat over the shaded parts, blending the shadesl pink, white, and pale yellows, placing the rich
so that they are imperceptibly lost. Flowers and dark colors outside, such as dark roses, etc.,

leaves are treated the same.

Two brushes are thereby making a substitute for light and shade.

used, one charged with color, the other nearly The most pleasing groups are painted with a pre~

dry. After this process, cast with local color,
finish with soft washes or small touches, which is
called stippling, and, when done nicely, is beau-
tiful; but as it takes time, washes are more gene-
rally adopted. Practice will accustom the eye to
notice variety of shades, which before could not
be discriminated.

Green leaves, when a yellowish pale green and
bright, are painted with gamboge and a little
Prussian blue, penciled over until the effect is
obtained. Use more Prussian blue for darker
green leaves, finishing with stronger color. For
the deepest shades, add a little crimson lake, or
Vandyke brown, or burnt sienna, as the shade
requires. For decayed leaves, use burnt sienna,
Indian yellow, and crimson lake.

Yellow Flowers. First examine whether the
shades are warm or cool : if the latter, paint them
with Indian ink; if the former, use a little burnt
umber. When dry, coat evenly with gamboge—
the general tint of the flower. Where the high
lights should be, wash out a little with another
brush while it is moist. Repeat the color in the
stronger parts, finishing, if requisite, with a
little carmine or burnt sienna mixed with gam-

bo e.
Flue Flowers. Coat them evenly with cobalt,

 

dominance of warm coloring.

PAPER, TRACHVG—I. Open a quire of
double crown tissue paper, and brush the first
sheet with a mixture of mastic varnish and oil
of turpentine, equal parts; proceed with each
sheet similarly, and dry them on lines by hang-
ing them up singly. As the process goes on,
the under sheets absorb a portion of the varnish,
and require less than if single sheets were brush-
ed separately. It leaves the paper quite light
and transparent, it may readily be written on,
and drawings traced with a pen are permanently
visible. Used by learners to draw outlines. The
paper is placed on the drawing, which is clearly
seen, and an outline is made, taking care to
hold the tracing paper steady. In this way
elaborate drawings are easily co ied.

Tissue paper may also be ma e transparent by
using—2. Nut oil and oil of turpentinetequal
parts, dry the paper with wheat-flourimniediately.
—3. Canada balsam, and turpentine to thin_it.
PAPER, T RANSFER.—Make a muc11age
with % oz. of gum tragacanth, stram,_add I oz.
of glue, and % oz. of gamboge. Mix French
chalk, 4 025. ; old Paris plaster, %_oz.; starch,
I 02.; run them through a sieve, grind With the
mixed mucilage, add water to reduce to the con- .

PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE FINE ARTS.

285

 

sistence of oil, and apply it with a brush to thin
sized paper. The drawing made on this prepar-
ed side of the paper is wetted at the back and

laced on the stone, which is warmed to 12 °

., the whole is then strongly pressed in t e
lithographic press, and the stone receives the
lm ression, which maybe printed from as usual.
W en two impressions are required, a red com-
position is made of wax, 2 parts, soap, I part,
and vermilion to color, all melted in a saucepan,
and ground with water to the consistence of
cream. This is spread thinly on the second
stone, an impression from the first stone is next
applied, and the second drawmg is thus made to
correspond with the first exactly. If, in printing,
the drawing becomes smutty, mix equal parts of
water, olive oil, and oil of turpentine, shake
till they froth, wet the stone, throw this
froth on it, and rub it with a soft sponge. The
printing ink will be dissolved, and . the. drawing
will almost disappear, but, on rolling it, it re-
appears as clear as at first. When the stone is
laid by for future use, a preservingOiuk is ap-
plied, to prevent the surface printing ink becom-
ing too hard. Thick varnish of linseed 011, 2
parts, tallow, 4 parts, wax and Venice turpen-
tine, of each I part; melt; add, by degrees, lamp-
black, 4 parts, mix thoroughly, and preserve in
a tin case. This must be rolled on the stone
each time before laying it aside for future use.
When the whole of the impressions are complet-
ed, and the stones required for other drawings,
two of the stones are laid face to face and ground
with sand and water until the surfaces are clear.
They are finally, more or less, polished with pu-
mice stone, according to the required fineness,
and are.hen prepared to receive other drawings.

PAPER, T a prepare fizr PH 07‘ OGRAPIIS.
--Dissolve 20 parts of citric acid in 200 parts of
distilled water. Pour the solution into an earthen
or porcelain dish (the bath should be abundant,
so that the paper may swim freely in it—the ac-
tion is hastened by the application of a gentle
heat ;) allow several sheets to remain in it for an
hour or two, then remove them, and place them
on another dish, containing water rendered al-
kaline by 5 per cent. of ammonia, washing final-
ly in pure water. Removed from this, suspend
the papers by one corner, and allow them to dry
thoroughly, protected from dust.

PAPER, Semilz'zing.—Fredericks uses 35
grains silver to the ounce of water; to each %
gallon add % ounce muriatic acid; neutralize
with liquid ammonia; filter to remove chloride,
float 30 seconds, fume 10 minutes. Gurney uses
40 grains silver, slightly alkaline, or with I drop
ammonia added; float 40 seconds, fume 10 min-
utes. Sarony uses 50 to 55 grains silver, slight-
ly acidulated with nitric acid; float 1 minute,
fume 15 minutes. Kurz uses 60 grains silver,
slightly acidulated with nitric acid; float I to 2
minutes, fume 15 to 20 minutes.

PAPER (PH 0 T OGRA PHI C ), Duraéle
Semifi'va—At a recent meeting of the Berlin
Photographic Society, the President exhibited a
specimen of silvered albumenized paper, the ad-
vantages of which are here explained.

In six ounces of distilled water is dissolved
one ounce of nitrate of silver ( free from acid), and
in another similar quantity of water one ounce of
chemically pure citric acid. When both com-
pounds are completely dissolved in their respec-
tive liquids, the latter is poured into the former,

 

the combined solution being well shaken, and
subsequently filtered. Finally one ounce of al-
cohol is added.

It is quite sufficient if the paper is allowed to
float upon the liquid for the space of a minute,
or, at any rate, until it swims evenly upon the
surface in all parts. Coagulated paper presents
more brilliancy, when printed and finished, than
that which is not coagulated.

Upon the purity of the citric acid depends the
clearness of the bath, for if the acid is at all im-l
pure, a rayish precipitate is formed—probably
citrate 0 silver. At the same time, if this pre-
ci itate is filtered off, the results obtained are still
0 a favorable character. The bath will remain
perfectly clear and transparent, even after con-
siderable use.

The durability of the sensitive albumenized
paper produced in this manner appears to be
quite unlimited, for some sheets of the material
which were prepared some nine months back are
as white and fresh now as when first sensitized.

The advantages entailed by the employment of
the citrate silver bath are not to be despised, for
besides the convenience of always having sensi-
tive paper ready at hand, there is obviously less
chance of loss from the paper becoming yellow
and useless during a lengthened period of unfa-
vorable weather.

PICTURE, 70 Print from 2%: Print 27:51]:—
The page or print is soaked in a solution first of
potass, and then of tartaric acid. This produces
a perfect diffusion of crystals of bitartrate of
potass through the texture of the unprinted part
of the paper. As this salt resists oil, the ink
roller may now be passed over the surface, with-
out transferring any of its contents, except to the
printed paper.

PLA TES, 170! Car! Cryolz’z‘e. — These are
now made in this country perfectly flat, from
three sixteenths to one quarter inch in thickness,
and are ground on one side and polished on the
other. They are a great improvement on the
milk glass and porcelain, formerly used by pho‘~
tographers. Being of a pure white color, rich
tones and beautiful results are easily obtainable.
Their flatness and thickness render them secure
from breakage.

PORCELAIZV, Picture: on.—The plates for
these pictures are sold as porcelain, but are reall
an opaque white glass. The plate is coated with
collodion, rendered sensitive in the usual way,
and the image received from a negative adjusted
as follows:

The negative is placed at one end of a box, the
other end of which joins the front end of a camera
having a quarter tube. The object of this box is
to cut off extraneous light. The negative is
placed toward the sun, or a piece of white paper
placed in the sun. The image formed by the ne.
gative is focused on the ground glass of the
camera, in the usual manner. The box in front
should admit of being varied in length, in order
to alter the size of the picture, by changing the
distance of the negative from the lens. .

The white sensitive plate is then exposed and
developed with the ordinary iron developer.
After washing off with the developer, fix with a
weak solution of cyanide of potassium.

The picture re uires to be darkened with aweak
solution of bich oride of mercur , chloride of
gold, or chloride of platinum. s soon as the
picture appears of the proper shade arrest the ac-

286

DICTIONARY OF EVERY-DA Y WANTS.-

 

tion of the strengthening agent, by washing the
plate under a copious stream of water.

PORCELAIN PROCESS and Callodion.
——Coat a porcelain plate with collodion, sensi-
tize in the negative bath, the same as proceeding
with an ordinary negative, place it, when coated,
in the plate holder, then take any negative you
wish to make a picture from (one not too intense
is best). Curtain a window with dark paper or
.cloth, and cut a small opening the right hight
.for the camera. Put your negative in the open-
ing cut from the curtain, and make a picture on

_ ’your porcelain plate, as the case may require,
large or small, t e same as if copying a picture;
develop, then wash, fix with cyanide, and tone
with gold, mercury, or sulphuret. Wash, dry,
color, and varnish. Exposure from five to thirty
seconds.

POSITIVES (Direct) on Glass. —In develop-
ing a glass positive, the solution of sulphate of
iron should be flowed evenly over the film, and
in some quantity, so as to wash off a portion of
nitrate of silver into the sink.

PRINTS, To T rang/fer to Glam—Take of
gum sandarac, 4 oz.; mastic, I 02.; Venice tur-

entine, I 02.; alcohol, 15 oz. Digest in a bottle,
requently shaking, and it is ready for use. Di-
rections: use, if possible, good plate glass of the
size of the picture to be transferred, go over it
with the above varnish, beginning at one side,
press down the picture firmly and evenly as you
proceed, so that no air can possibl lodge be-
tween; put aside, and let it dry per ectly, then
moisten the paper cautiously with water, and
remove it piece-meal by rubbing carefully with
the fingers; if managed nicely, a complete trans-
fer of the picture to the glass will be effected.

PHOTOGRAPH COLORING.—— Select a
light photograph for coloring, and let the gene-
ral hue be gray, inclining to black in the shadows.

Albumenized paper seldom requires any pre-
paration, but need only be carefully washed with
cold water and a soft sponge.

A preparation of gum is generally used in the
colors for albumen paper. It should be dissolved
in water, or allowed to boil up; after which,
bottle to keep from dust.

A little white sugar is added by some artists;
and the preparation should be used as thin as
possible and allow the colors to adhere readily
to the paper.

The following colors are necessary in cakes,
Windsor and Newton’s being considered the
bestz—Carmine, vermilion, rose madder, light
red, crimson lake, Roman ochre, Indian yellow,
gamboge, cobalt blue, emerald green, indigo,
Prussian blue, burnt sienna, burnt umber, sepia,
Van Dyke brown, madder brown, ivory black,
Chinese white, (half cakes at half price).

Sable brushes are best, and should not be used
too small, except for delicate work, such as mark-
ing in the eyes, nostrils, etc. A middling size is

referable, but see that there are no straggling
liairs about them and that they do not split or
divide.

Coloring the Face. —-Commence, with large
brush, to wash in the flesh tint: go over the
whole flesh as smoothly as possible; light red is
the most desirable, being a fast color; for very
fair complexions orange vermilion is used.

Put pale wash of cobalt blue in the half tints,
Indian yellow in dark shadows, with vermilion
and carmine ( mixed) over it. -

 

After the washes in the face, put in the hair,
draperies, background, etc.

Stipple the whole flesh with tints of light red,
or Indian yellow and pink madder mixed.

Stipple rose madder on cheeks, lips, tip of the
chin, tip of ears and over the nose where the '
eyes meet; cobalt blue in temples and about
the shadows of the eyes and mouth.

Stipple light tint of Indian yellow over the
cheek bones; in faces of old persons more Indian
yellow is used; also in faces of brunettes. ’

A pale green, made of Indian yellow and cobalt
blue, is sometimes used in shadows about the
mouth.

Sepia or Van Dyke brown for brown hair.

Shade with sepia and carmine, and use cobalt
blue mixed with burnt sienna for high lights.

Pale wash of cobalt blue on high lights of black
hair, and shade with black and carmine.

Roman ochre for golden hair, with burnt
sienna and cobalt blue in lights; shade with
sepia and Roman ochre.

For gray hair mix a wash of cobalt blue and
sepia; shadow with sepia; and sometimes use
white mixed with local color for high lights.

Backgrounds.— For fair complexions or chil-
dren should be blue, inclining to purple. Cobalt
blue and burnt umber make very desirable back-
grounds. '

Olive grounds are used for dark or old complex-
ions. Where the flesh tint is sallow, use war-
mer colors—~green approaching to olive.

Grays produce a pleasing effect on fair com-
plexions.

Never
son curtams,
subdued.

Opaque backgrounds are far from artistic, and
but seldom used.

Stippling.-—Towards the end of your work you
will observe many ine ualities in the tints.
These require to be filled up with the point of a
brush with an assimilating color; and that filling
up is termed stippling.

Draperies. —-- For black draperies, first use a
local wash of ivory black; wash in the deep
shadows with a mixture of crimson lake and
sepia; then add another wash of black over the
whole, touching in the shadows as before. Pro-
ceed in this way for two or three washes, and
then touch in the high lights with light red and

aint a bright blue ground and crim-
but keep everything quiet and

white.

PHOTOGRAPHS, T a Dress fir. —In dres-
sing for photographs it is useful to know that
dark-brown, dark-green, maroon, and plain black
goods, without gloss, will take a rich drab color.
Silks oi the same color will take considerably
lighter. Snuff-brown, dark-leather, dark-drab,
scarlet, cherry, dark-orange, crimson, and slate
will take a very rich drab color. Violet, blue,
purple, pink, and magenta will take very light,
and should be avoided.

PH 0 T OGRA PHI C COLLODI 01V, ladizerr
find—Iodide of ammonium, 90 grs.; iodide of
cadmium, 90 grs.; bromide of ammonium, 4o
grs.; alcohol (-810), 10 oz. .

Or, iodide of magnesium, 200 grs.; bromide
of cadmium, 50 grs.; alcohol ('810), to oz.

Pulverize the salts, and add gradually to the
alcohol, commencing with the bromide; shake
until completely dissolved, and set away In a
dark place. _

PHOTOGRAPHS, Enamelmg.—The beau.

PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE FINE ARTS.

287

 

tiful gloss called enameling is produced as fol-
lows: “After the rints have been toned and
washed in the usua way, trim to the right size
by means of a cutting shape; then immerse in a
warm solution of gelatine (which must be kept,
whilst operating, nearly as possible of an equal
temperature) of about the same consrstenc as
collodion. Care should be taken always to lter
the solution before using. When thoroughly
impregnated with the same, the prints are taken
out and laid, face down, on collodionized glass
plates (preparation of which is given below),
care being taken that all air bubbles between the
paper and glass are carefully pressed out and
removed. Afterwards, a sheet of stout white
- paper, somewhat larger than the prints, is ce-
mented to the back of each photograph—a pre-
caution for protecting the pictures in the event of
their spontaneously leaving the glass on drying.
The plates are allowed to remain for ten_ or
twelve hours (say over night) in a dry locality,
and, at the end of that time, the portraits may be
separated from the glass by making an incision
of the film all round the paper. The superfluous
paper should be trimmed off previously to the
pictures being mounted upon the cards. _
“Many of the manipulations may be slightly
modified if desired; for instance, instead of ce-
menting a piece of paper to the back of the prints,
the card itself, if not very thick, may be at once
attached, the margin of which will be gelatinized
in the same way as the picture. Some photo-
graphers add a small quantity of sugar candy to
the gelatine in order to prevent the sizing solution
drying too rapidly, and to render the finished
card more plastic and impressionable to the cameo
embossing press, which apparatus gives to these
pictures a most beautiful and pleasing effect.—
T a Prayiare t/ze Colloa'z'onized Plain—Glass plates
of a suitable size, say, 8% by 6% or 10 by 8,
and which have been carefully cleaned, as if to
serve for taking negatives upon, are rubbed over
with finely powdered pumice stone or Tripoli
owder, which is afterwards thoroughly removed
By means of a soft dusting brush. The plates
are then coated with a four per cent. normal so-
lution of collodion, and laced to dry in a spot
free from dust; they are tlien ready for use.”
PHOTO - GAL VANOGRAPHY, Pretrc/z’s
Prater: qf.—-Take a plate of glass, and spread on
it ordinary glue, to which bichromate of potash
and a small quantity of nitrate of silver have been
added. For instance, take 2 or 3 solutions of
glue, into one of which put a little nitrate of sil-
ver, into another bichromate of potash, and into
another iodide of potassium. The silver and the
iodide are for the purpose of producing a little
iodide of silver on the sensitive film, so as to
produce on the picture that grain which is neces-
sary for holding the ink in the process of print-
ing. Take the photographic picture obtained by
any of the customary processes, and place it on
the sensitive plate thus prepared and exposed to
the action of the light.
time (all those parts which are dark in the photo-
graph, protecting the plate from change, and all
those which are white, allowing the sunlight
freely to pass through and the change to take
place), \ve have a combination of bichromate of
tash and gelatine in two different states, one
soluble and the other insoluble. Conse uently,
when the plate is then put into water all t e parts
which remain soluble are dissolved out, whilst

In the course of a short.

 

the other parts remain as they were, and we have
the picture produced not only in difierent lights
and shades, but also in different depths, the so.
lution being eaten into by the process. When
the plate is prepared to this point, there is poured
upon it a preparation of gutta percha, which, being
kept under ressure for a short time, receives
the reverse image of the photographic picture.
This is now prepared for the voltaic battery b
being simply rubbed over with fine black lea ,1,
and it being placed in connection with the trough,
copper is precipitated on the plate, which receives
an image the reverse of the mould. Then by
the ordinary electrotype process another plate
may be obtained, from which copies may be
rinted.

1) P110 TOGRAPHIC LIGHT. —The lights in-
tense enough to make photographs are: 1. sun'
and daylight; 2. the electric light; 3. the magne-
sium light; 4. the lime light, produced by the
hydro-oxygen blow-pipe; 5. the light produced
by the burning of a cylinder of carbonate of mag-
nesia, mixed with titanic acid.

PHO T0 GRAPHERS, New [113% vim—Pho-
tographers have long been seeking for an artifi-
cial light, so readily available that the success of
their manipulations may not be wholly de en-
dent on the sun, and subject to the caprice o the
clouds. The last attempt to find the much need-
ed substitute is by digesting zinc in the iodide
of ethyl, a process which yields a liquid substance
inflammable by the mere contact of the oxygen
in the air. By passing pure hydrogen (or per-
haps ordinary illuminating gas) through the fluid,
the compound of zinc and ethyl will volatilize
into the gas, and will yield, on combustion, a
flame of extraordinary brillancy and vivid white-
ness of color.

It is said that the actinic effects of this light
are inferior to those of combusted magnesium;
but the steadiness of a flame from a gas will so
far surpass any that can be obtained from a burn-
ing metal, even when the latter is of the highest
purity chemically obtainable, that most photo-
graphers will doubtless give it the preference.

PHO T0 ORA PHI C PRINTING .-—-Sensitive
papers ought not to be exposed in the frame
until they are quite dry. The shutter at the
back of the frame is removed, and the negative
laid flat upon the glass, collodion-side 11 per-
most. A sheet of sensitive paper is then p aced
upon the negative, sensitive-side downwards;

,next comes a layer of thick felt; and the whole

is then tightly compressed by replacing and bolt-
ing down the shutter. The amount of pressure
required is not very considerable, but if the
springs of the frame become too weak aftera
time, a few pieces of mill-board maybe placed
beneath them. The time of ex osure to light
varies much with the density of t e negative and
the power of the actinic rays, as influenced b

the season of the year and weather. If the ex-
posure to light has been correct the print appears
slightly darker than it is intended to remain. The
toning bath dissolves away the lighter shades,
and reduces the intensity, for which allowance is
made in the exposure to light. A little experi-
ence soon teac es the proper point; but much
will depend upon the state of the toning bath,
and albumenizedtpaper will require to be printed
somewhat more eeply than plain paper. If, on
removal from the printing-frame, a peculiar
spotted appearance is seen, produced by unequal

288

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

darkening of the chloride of silver, either the
nitrate bath is too weak, the sheet removed from
its surface too speedily, or the paper is of inferior
quality. If. in the exposure to ordinary diffused
aylight, the shadows of the proof become very
decidedly coppery before the lights are sufficiently
printed, the negative is in fault. Ammonio-
nitrate paper highly salted is particularly liable
to this excess of reduction, and especially so
if the light is powerful.-— Toning. The print
should be first washed in common water until
the soluble nitrate of silver is removed. This is
known to be the case when the liquid flows away
clear; the first milkiness being caused by the
soluble carbonates and chlorides in the water
precipitating the nitrate of silver. Ten min-
utes in water running slowly from a tap will
be sufficient to cleanse a print from nitrate of
silver; or three or four changes in a dish, pour-
ing off quite dry between each change. It is an
advantage to finish off with a solution of salt (2
grs. to the 02.) Pour the tonic bath out intoa
flat dish, and put the prints into it 2 or 3 at a
time, waving the dish meanwhile backwards and
forwards to secure a constant movement. Con-
tinue to keep the prints moving, and watch the
changes in color. If the prints are removed as
soon as the blue color of the gold is seen, they
will usually change in the fixing bath to a warm
shade of brown ; but when left for 2 or 3minutes
longer in the toning bath, the darker tint becomes
permanent—Fixing. One oz. of hyposulphite of
soda dissolved in 6 025. of water would fix two
batches of stereoscopic prints, 20 in each batch.
Allow the prints to remain in the fixing baths for
20 minutes, with occasional movement, after
which they may be transferred to a dish of clean
water.— Wax/2mg. It is essential to wash out
every trace of hyposulphite of soda from the
print, if it is to be preserved from fading, and to
do this properly requires care. Always wash
with running water when it can be obtained, and
choose a large shallow vessel exposing a consid-
erable surface in preference to one of lesser dia-
meter. A constant dribbling of water must be
maintained for 4 or 5 hours, and the prints
should not lie together too closely, or the water
will not find its way between them. When the
prints have been thoroughly washed, blot them
off between sheets of porous paper and hang them
up to dry.-—-—Mozmtz’ng. Mount the proofs with a
solution of gelatine in hot water, freshly made;
gum-water, prepared from the finest commercial
gum, and free from acidity, may also be used,
but it should be made very thick, so as not to
sink into the paper, or produce “cockling up”
of the cardboard on drying—Positive Printing
(5}! Der/elrpmmt. Negative printing rocesses
will be found useful during the du 1 winter
months, and at other times when the light is
feeble, or where it is required to produce a large
number of impressions from anegative in a short
space of time. The proofs, however, as thus ob
tained, are not equal to direct sun-prints in beauty
and gradation of tone. Take of iodide of potas-
sium, 120 grs. ; bromide of ammonium, 30 grs.;
water. 20 ozs. Float the paper on the iodizing
bath until it ceases to curl up, and lies flat upon
the liquid: then pin up to dry in the usual way.
Render sensitive upon a bath of aceto-nitrate of
silver, containing 30 grs. of nitrate of silver with
30 minims of glacial acetic acid to each 02. of
water. Place the dried sheets in contact with

 

the negative in a pressure frame, and expose to
a feeble light. About 30 seconds will be an
average time upon a dull winter’s da , when it
would be impossible to print in the or inary way.
Develop by immersion in a saturated solution oi
gallic acid. After the picture is fully brought
out, wash in cold and subsequently in warm wa-
ter, to remove the gallic acid, which, if allowed
to remain, would discolor the hyposulphite bath.
Fix the print in a solution of hyposulphite of
soda, one part to two of water, continuing the
action until the yellow color of the iodide disap-
pears. Wash thoroughly in plenty of water.

PHOTOGRAPHIC PROCESS, Improved.
—The collodio-bromide emulsion must contain
an excess of nitrate of silver. All the soluble
bromide in the collodion must be converted, and
there must remain as large an excess of nitrate
of silver as the collodion will contain. About
six grains of bromide of cadmium and eleven
grains of nitrate of silver to the ounce of emul-
sion will not be found bad proportion.

\Vhen all the materials used in the collodion
are of the best quality, so that the emulsion is
neutral or nearly so, one or two minims of gla-
cial acetic acid to the ounce may be added with
advantage; otherwise no addition of acid is ne-
cessary. There need not be more acid in the
sensitive film than there is in an ordinary wet
collodion film.

The plate is to be coated with the emulsion in
the usual way, and then put into the dark slide
or plate box until required for the ex osure.

Under the best conditions of the lm—that is
to say, when it contains the minimum of free
acid and the maximum of free nitrate—the sensi-
tiveness will be about the same as that of good
wet collodion.

The image is to be developed with a common
acid iron developer, rather strong, and contain-
ing as much alcohol as is found necessary to
enable it to flow properly over the dry film. This
quantity will, of course, be greater than that
which is commonly added to the developer in the
wet process.

The image comes out very quickly and must
now be treated in the usual way as regards inten-
sifying and fixing. The negative is indistin-
guishable, when finished, from a common wet
collodion one.

This process offers great advantages to the
tourist, because it requires no nitrate bath, no
troublesome washing of the plate, no preserva-
tive, no subsequent drying, and no wetting of
the plate before development. The emulsion
may be kept in two separate parts—one consrst-
ing of the collodion with the bromide of cadmium,
the other being an alcoholic solution of nitrate of
silver ; these may be mixed as required for use;
The film adheres well to the glass without any
preliminary coating, and there are no troubles
with blisters, or wrinkling, or tearing of the

film.

PHOTOGRAPHIC PAPER PROCESS.
—-A good sheet of Turner’s paper is selected, .
and washed with the following solution z—mtrate
of silver, 17 grains; distilled water, I oz.;‘ dry
the paper, and wash with iodide of potassrum,
400 grains; common salt, 100' grams ; pure wa-
ter, 1 pint; when partially dried, the prepared
side must be cleared of the otash by floatingit
on water for five to ten m nutes, then dry it.
Now prepare a. solution of nitrate of Silver, 25

PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE FINE ARTS.

289

 

grains; glacial acetic acid, I drachm ; distilled
water, i 02.; add to some of this an equal quan-
tit of a solution of crystallized gallic ac1d in
co d distilled water, and the gallo-nitrate of sil-
ver thus formed is applied to the paper, which
is then ready for use, after rinsing in clean water.
The gallic acid solution and the gallo-nitrate of
silver will not keep long, and should only be
made when required. After exposure in the
camera, the gallo-nitrate is again applied to de-
velop the picture, which is then washed, and fix-
ed with the solution of hyposul hate of soda.

PHOTO - LITIIOGA‘AP '[C PROCESS,
Osborne’s [limit—Let us suppose that a map
has been com iiled and drawn with great care,
and that it is desired to multiply copies of this
original in the lithographic process. The first
step in the process is to obtain a negative; for
which purpose the map is placed upright upon a
plane-board, and the camera opposue to it at
such a distance as to give the desired ratio be-
tween original and copy. A negative is now
taken, on glass coated with collodion in the usual
way, observing the greatest care to avoid distor-
tion of all kinds, and to produce a negative of
the highest excellence, success in which depends
entirely upon the knowledge, judgment and ex-
perience of the operator. A sheet of plain, p031-
tive photographic paper is now coated on one
side with a mixture, consisting of gelatine, soften-
ed and dissolved in water, to which a quantity of
bichromate of potash and albumen has been add-
ed. The paper, evenly covered with this fluid,
is dried in the dark, when it will be found pos-
sessed of a smooth glassy surface, and a bright
yellow color. This surface is still further improv-
ed b assing it through the press incontact with
a poiislied plate. . .

A suitable piece of positive photo-lithographic
paper thus manufactured is now to be exposed to
the action of the light under the negative of the
map already described. This is accomplished in
an ordinary pressure frame, the time required
varying from to to 15 seconds, or several min-
utes, according to the brightness of the weather.
The positive thus obtained presents itself to the
eye as a brown drawing upon the clear yellow
of the sheet.

The exposed photographic copy of the original
is covered all over, while dry, with transfer-ink,
which is accomplished by running it through the

ress with its face in contact with a stone which

as already received a coating of such ink. After
it is separated from the blackened stone it will be
found to have brought away with it an evenly dis-
tributed film of inky matter, forced by the pres-
sure into intimate contact with the unexposed, as
well as the exposed portion of the surface. This
operation is known as “blacking” the positive

rint; that now to be described is called “coagu-
‘ ation,” its object being to effect a change of that
nature upon the albumen contained in the coating
of the organic matter. For this purpose moisture
and hex are necessary, and both are applied very
simply, by letting the blackened photographic
copy swim upon the surface of boiling water with
its inky side upwards, for it is important not to
wet that with hot water. After the lapse of a cer-
tain period, determined by the experience of the
operator, he proceeds to the next step in the pro-
cess, that of “washing off.” For this purpose the
print is laid upon a smooth surface, such as a
plate of glass or porcelain, and friction with a wet

 

sponge, or other suitable material, is applied to
the black inky coating, under which the photogra—
phic image still exists, and to develop which is
now the object in view. The operator soon be-
comes aware that the moisture which percolated
through the paper from the back, has exerted a
softened or gelatinizing influence upon the gela~
tine in the sensitive coating; it has caused it to
swell, and to let go its hold upon the ink. But
this change does not extend to those parts of the
coating which were acted on by light; in other
words, to those places which were unprotected by
the opacity of the negative; they remain intact,
uninfluenced by the solvent or moistening effect
of the water. Accordingly the operator finds a
fac-simile of the original map gradually develop
under his hand as he continues the friction. This
process is proceeded with until all traces of ink
are removed, save those required to form the pic-
ture, which must be clear and distinct in all its
details. Abundance of hot water is then poured
over it, so as to remove every particle of soluble
matter, and it is then finally dried, which com-
pletes its preparation.

A stone to which a fine smooth surface has been
imparted, is now slightly warmed, and ut in the
lithographic press; upon this is placed inverted)
the positive print, after it has been damped by
lying between moist paper, and the whole is then
passed repeatedly through the press. On exami-
nation the paper will now be found to have at-
tached itself firmly to the stone, so that some
force is required to separate the two. When the
former is removed it brings with it its albuminous
coating, which gives to it while damp a parchment-
like appearance; but the ink is gone: it has left
the paper for the stone, and on the latter we find
a reversed drawing of the map, one which, after
it has been properly “prepared,” will print as
well as if it had been drawn by hand.

PHOTOGRAPHICRELIEFPRINTIZVG.
—Tliere are now in use two principal methods of
printing pictures from a negative, called the silver
print and the carbon print. The former produ-
ces the common photograph, and is founded on
the same principle as the daguerreotype, namely,
the decomposition by light of a silver compound.
In the photograph this is usually the chloride,
while in the daguerreotype the iodide and bro-
mide are decomposed. The carbon print is based
on an entirely different principle. Its invention
arose from the incidental discovery that when a.
solution of bichromate of potash is mixed with a
solution of glue, and the mixture dried, it be-.
comes insoluble in water when exposed to light,
but remains soluble if kept in the dark. This
effect of light to make the so-called bichromate off
gelatine insoluble depends on the strength of the
light and the time of exposure; and penetrates.
more or less into the gelatinous layer according;
to these conditions. Hence, if such a solution is.
mixed with fine lampblack and an appropriate
kind of paper coated with it, it may be washed
off again if the paper is kept in the dark, but can
not be washed off after the paper has been ex-
posed to strong light; and it can be only par-
tially washed off after exposure to weak light. It
is evident that when paper thus prepared is ex-.
posed under a negative for a proper length of
time, (which, by the way, is very short, as the
substance is highly sensitive,) the parts protected
from light by the details of the negative will be-
come insoluble to various depths, according to.
19 ‘

290

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

the degree of protection; and by washing away
the soluble portions the picture will be brought
out.

At the same time such a picture will have a
relief. The dark portions will be elevated; the
lighter parts, bein more or less washed away,
will be deeper. I we wish simply a relief, and
not a picture, we may leave the black pigment
out; take only a dry, thick coat of bichromate of
gelatine, expose under the negative, and wash
with warm water. Now, gelatine or glue, when
thoroughly dry, is exceedingly hard, almost like
glass, resisting pressure even better than glass.
Such a gelatine—relief may, therefore, be placed
on the steel plate of a hydraulic press, a sheet of
clean lead laid on it, and the two brought together
under from ten to twenty thousand pounds of
pressure for every square inch of the surface of
the picture. In this way a reverse or mould is
obtained impressed in the lead plate, in which
the parts to be darkest are the deepest, and vice
versa. From such a gelatine-relief, handled
with proper care, as many as twenty metallic
lead plates may be obtained, each capable of
producing about a thousand impressions, so that
one negative may produce twenty thousand prints,
all perfect and all alike. The prints are obtained
by laying the lead mould on the warm, flat sur-
face 'of a peculiar press made for the purpose,
then taking a warm, semi-transparent mixture of
color and gelatine, and pouring it in a little pool
near the middle of the plate, laying the paper on
this, and then applying the proper pressure. The
mixture oozes out in all directions, after having
filled all the hollows of the mould. After a few
seconds, the pressure is removed and the paper
taken up, when it is found that the mixture leaves
the hollows in the lead mould entirely and ad-
heres to the paper in exactly the same way as
printing~ink adheres to the paper when the latter
is removed from an engraved plate. The paper
then has the picture adhering to it. This, how—
ever, is still solnble in water, and could be
washed off; but by immersing it in a solution of
alum, the gelatine or glue becomes utterly in-
soluble, even in boiling water, and we have a
permanent finished print.

It is evident that any color can be used. Black
with a brown tone is always the finest, and is
preferred by artists; blue toned blacks are fine

or certain styles of subjects, as are also violet
blacks. Of other colors, dark red, or brown
and dark blue, are the only ones which give satis-
faction; their effect, however, is always inferior
to that of the warm brown black, which gives the
very tone obtained in the best silver prints,
treated with a gold solution.
PHOTOGRAPHIC SEALS. —A photo-
grapher in F reiberg has made seals and stamps
with the portraits of his customers. A thin
layer of gelatine sensitized with bichromate of
potash is exposed to the action of light under a
photographic positive, by which the parts acted
upon are rendered insoluble in water. The gela—
tine film is immersed in water, and the parts not
acted upon by light swell up, and we obtain a
picture in relief, of which a plaster cast can be
taken. An electrotype copy being taken of the
cast, we have a metallic fac-simile oi the photo-
graph, which can be employed as a seal. This
is essentially an application of the photographic
process, and suggests an excellent method for
obtaining perfect likenesses of persons in metallic

 

casts for the use of the printer, as well as an
admirable way of illustrating scientific books.

PHOTOGRAPHING 01V WOOD. —Soon
after the invention of photography, efforts were
made to transfer photographs to blocks of wood,
and. to engrave them afterwards like ordinary
cuts. The advantage of this process is two—fold:
first, it is not necessary to make the drawing;
and secondly, the photographic image is a much
better copy than any hand-drawing, especially if
the copy is to be reduced in size. In regard to
the process of transferring, it has not as yet met
with any great difficulties, although images could
not be very well fixed, and were liable to be—
come too dark. A further .and more serious in-
convenience made itself apparent in the old pro-
cess oflpreparation. The block became so much
softene and impregnated with salts that the
artist was unable to execute his work with ordi-
nary facility; in a word, the wood became fi-
brous and not capable of being well cut. At a
more recent date, the attempt was made to paste
a skin of collodion with the photograph on the
block, and then to cut it. It happened, however,
that the skin would become partially loosened,
which made this method completely useless.

The difficult problem has finally been solved
by Mr. Leth, in Leipzig, whose method is in
detail as follows: In order to preserve the wood
from the penetration of water, during the subse-
quent operations, the wood block is coated on its
reverse and on its four edges with varnish or
wax. After this, the perfectly polished cutting
surface is grounded in the ordinary manner.
VVood-cutters generally use for this urpose
white lead, zinc white, or blanc fixe, wtth gum
water; but for the purpose under consideration
glue water is sufficient. The grounding is ac-
complished by means of rubbing with the finger
and the ball of the hand until the surface is uni.
formly white and dry. This surface is hereupor‘
immersed in a somewhat concentrated solution
of alum, which will coagulate the glue, the su-
perfiuous liquid being thrown off by swinging
the block about. The block is then allowed to
dry. The photographic image is not produced
on the wood block, but on a glass plate which is
coated with a solution of bichromate of potash
mixed with gum and honey.

By laying upon the latter a positive photo~
graphic copy of an image, and subjecting it to
the action of light, an indistinct picture is ob-
tained, but by spreading burned soot or another
dust color upon it, it appears perfect; and if a
proper shade has been selected, can scarcely be
distinguished from an ordinary photograph. The
parts of the chrome salt solution which have
been afiected by the light fail to take the dust-
colors, while they adhere on the parts which
have been protected against the action of the
light, and thus the image is brought out. The
latter is now to be transferred upon the wood
block. This is done by coating the picture with
collodion, and after that putting it into dilute
nitric acid. Thereby the chrome salt isldecom-

d and the still soluble gum washed off, while
the dust colors remain on the collodion. The
cohesion between the collodion skin and the
glass is at the same time removed. If the glass
is immersed in a large vessel with sugar water,
the skin may be easily removed by the fingers.
The skin now floats in the sugar water. It is
made to cover the wood block by immersing the

 

PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE FINE ARTS. 291

 

latter in the water, so that its prepared surface
comes just below the floating collodion skin.
When the latter lies without folds or bubbles in
the proper position on the prepared wood sur-
face, the block is withdrawn from the water and
placed on edge for drying. In order to dissolve
and separate the collodion skin, the surface of the
picture is now sprinkled with ether. The dust
colors, which represent the image, however, re—
main upon the ground surface, and after the
ether has evaporated, the block is ready for cut-
ting. In regard to the shade, it does not depend
upon the chemical process, but upon the dust
powder itself, which may be taken of any tint.
Any picture taken from nature may be transfer-
red in this manner, and if engraved, will show a
similarity to the original not easily attainable.
PliOTOGRAPHl/VG ON IVOOD, Sear-
c‘ng’s Prater: of —— The block on which the pic.
ture is to be made is first dampened with water,
then whitened with enamel rubbed from the sur~
face of good enameled visiting cards. Rub
gently, removing only the enamel, after which it
is brushed smooth with a moderately stiff brush,

from right to left and up and down, making a,

smooth, even, and very thin surface. Allow this
to dry, after which it is flowed with a solution of
albumen, made with the white of one egg and
sixteen ounces of water, dried by heat or allowed
to dry spontaneously. Now coat it with another
albumen solution made as follows :-——I. White of
one egg; water, 4 ounces; chloride of ammonia,
40 grains. Beat the whole to a thick froth. Al-
low to subside, then decant or filter through a
fine sponge placed in a glass funnel. Pour a
sufiicient quantity on one corner of the block to
cover it, when spread around with the aid of a
l-9 or 1-6 glass (using the edge). Allow the
surplus solution to drain back into the bottle.
Dry this byagentle heat.———2. Ether, I oz.; alcohol,
1 oz.; gun~cotton, 8 grs.; nitrate of silver, 30 grs.;
dissolve in as small a quantity of water as pos-
sible, and allow to settle for a few days, protected
from the light. Flow the salted block with for-
mula No. 2, in the dark room, and dry by gentle
heat. It is now ready for exposure under the
negative. A porcelain printing frame, or any
other suitable method, may be used to print it.
After printing, formula 2 is removed from the
surface of the block by dissolving in ether and
alcohol, assisted by rubbing gently with a soft
sponge. The picture can now be toned and fixed
in the ordinary way, or fixed and toned at one
operation, by the hypo and gold bath. After
being allowed to dry, it is ready for the engraver.

SIL VE/i’ (Waste), T o Remark—Dr. Grager
has proposeda new method for the regeneration
of waste nitrate of silver solutions used in photo-
graphy. After first referring to the generally
applied and well known means now in use for
this purpose, the author states that the best plan
to treat these solutions is the following: They are
boiled either in a porcelain basin or a glass flask,
and while boiling, there is added to them recent~
ly precipitated, well washed, and moist oxide of
Silver; the boiling being continued for some time.
The liquid is next filtered, and then evaporated
to dryness, the heat being increased to fusion,
so as to destroy ammoniacal salts; the residue
IS pure nitrate of silver. The sediment on the
filter contains some oxide of silver, which must
be added in excess ; and, therefore, in order not
to lose that, 2he filter is preserved, and the con-

 

tents worked up at a subsequent operation. The
nitrate of silver thus obtained is, b practical
photographers, pronounced to be 0 excellent
quality.

SILVER STAINS, To Remove. -—Put halfa

pound of Glauber salts, quarter of apound of .

the chloride of lime, and eight ounces of water,
into a little wide mouthed bottle, and when re-
quired for use pour some of the thick sedimentmto
a saucer, and rub it well over the hands with
pumice stone or a nail brush, and it will clean
the fingers quite equal to cyanide, but without
any danger. This will do to use over again until’
exhausted and should be kept corked up. The
disagreable smell may be entirely avoided by the
liberal use of lemon juice, which not only entirely
removes the smell, but whitens the hands.

SOLUTIONS, FIXING.— For positives :;
Cyanide of potassium, 120 rs. ; nitrate of silver,
6 grs.; water, 10 025. W en this solution re-
quires more than a minute or two to clear the
picture, add a small amount of cyanide of potas-
5mm.

This solution is highly poisonous, and should
not be allowed to touch unsound skin, nor should
the fumes be breathed.

For negatives: The above solution of cyanide
of potassium answers very well, or hyposulphite
of soda, [o 025.; water,Ioozs.; ether, 30 minims.

SOLUTION OF SlLKin P/zotogmp/zy.—-
Pure silk is soluble in hydrochloric acid, and if
the solution be neutralized by ammonia, and
evaporated, an organic chloride of ammonium
results, which is capable of use in photography,
particularly for salting paper. Paper thus pre-
pared is said to be more sensitive than that salted
in the usual way, and in printing, gives a warmer
tone. It is thought that this salt could also be
used in the preparation of collodio-chloride of
silver, if it were sufficiently soluble in alcohol.

STEREOSCOPIC PICTURES. — Photo-
graphs for the refracting stereoscope are taken
with small lenses of about 4% inches focus. For
portraits a camera may advantageously be fitted
with two double combination lenses, of 1%
inches diameter, exactly equal in focal length and
in rapidity of action. The caps are removed si-
multaneously, and the pictures impressed at the
same instant. The centers of the lenses may be
separated by 3 inches, when the camerais placed
at about 6 or 8 feet from the sitter. Pictures
taken with binocular camera of this kind require
to be mounted in areversed position to that which
they occupy on the glass, or a pseudoscopic effect
will be produced. The negatives may be cut in
half, the right half being printed on the left side,
or the finished prints may be removed before
mounting.

STEREOSCOPIC TRANSPARENCIES.
—Sensitive films prepared by Russel’s Tannin
Process. Place the negative and the repared
plate in contact, and squeeze them together in an
ordinary pressure frame ; not too strongly, how-
ever, or it will probably be found, after throwing
off a few impressions, that the negative has been
scratched. Lay a strip of black velvet behind the
sensitive film to absorb stray light.

TAPIOCA PAPER in P/zologmp/zy. — A
substance called tapioca paper—recommended as
very useful in taking photographs by artificial
light—is prepared by soaking 300 grains of to.-
pioca for two days in an equal weight of water,
then adding a quart of water; and afterward for!

292

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

every tenth of a quart of the liquid fifteen grains
of iodide of potassium, forty-five grains of chlor-
ide of potassium, and one and a half grains of
bromide of otassium are to be introduced, and,
when disso ved, the whole boiled. for ten min-
utes, allowed to stand for a day, and then decant-
ed and filtered through linen. Twelve to twenty
sheets of the paper are immersed in this liquid
at a time, or can be floated npon it for fifteen or
twenty minutes, and then hung up to dry in a
dark room. Should the paper assume a dark
color it will be of no consequence, since this tint
will disappear in the silver bath. This bath is
to be prepared in the proportion of I to 15, and
for every ounce of nitrate of silver fifty or sixty
grains of citric acid are to be added. The de-
veloper is made of fifty grains of pyrogallic acid
and eighty grains of citric acid in thirty ounces
of water. The time of exposure varies from ten
seconds to twenty-five minutes, according to the
icture to be copied and the actinic force of the
' ht.

gTIN TIN G P/zotograp/zs slzg/ztly.~— Having
prepared the photograph in the usual way, take
a little pink madder or carmine, and lay it on the
cheek with a clean pencil. Soften it carefully all
round the edges, blending the tint into the face.
Repeat the process once and again, until you
have obtained nearly as much color as necessary;
I say nearly as much, because you have to pass
the general flesh wash over it, which has the ef-
fect of darkening it considerably. For the pur-
pose of softening, it will be as well to have two
pencils on one holder. It might appear that
putting on the color of the cheek at once, and
softening it, would suffice; but you will get it far
softer by doing it with a very pale tint two or
three times, than on possibly can by making it
at once as power 111 as necessary ; besides, it is
impossible to soften a strong color so well as a
pale tint. When the color is quite dry, go over
the whole of the face with a flesh tint, then put
in the hair, eyes, eyebrows, and lips; round off
the forehead with gray, and apply the same to
those parts of the face where you observe it to be
in nature. If your photograph be avery dark
one, you will not require so much gray in it as
if it were a light impression. Next wash in the
background and proceed with the draperies, etc.
Return now to the face: strengthen the carna-
tions, grays, and shadows, by hatching delicate
tints over them; put the light in the eyes, and
the spirited touches about it, and the eyebrows,
mouth, etc., and finish off the hair. In dark
photographs, you will require to lay the lights
on the hair with body color, as it is generally
much darker than it appears in nature. Make
out the linen with a gray, deepening it in the
darkest parts, and lay on the high lights with
constant or Chinese white. Proceed next to

' shadow the drapery, and when you have obtain-

ed. the required depth, scumble in the high lights,
using a. bare pencil and a very gentle hand, as
before directed. Give the background another
wash, if requisite, and your photograph is finish-
ed; or make up a tint of orange vermilion and
white, according to the complexion, and lay it
smoothly over face and hands; then put on the
carnations with rose madder, and shadow up the
face with orange tint, and proceed as above to
finish. If the backgrounds and draperies appear
dead, you may take a piece of very soft washing
silk and rub them up a little, which will have the

‘1...

  

 

same effect as if they had been hot pressed.
Whenever body color has been used, the rubbing
will be ineffective. Neither rubbing nor hot
pressing will give a shine to any but transparent
tints. If there be metal buttons, chains, or epau.
lettes, they must be laid over the dress with body
colors ; a very good ground for them is red.
chrome and gamboge, shadowed with burnt
umber, and hightened on the lights with lemon
chrome and Chinese white. By the foregoing
methods, it will be unnecessary to hatch or
stipple a great deal; for you will find that the
face will come out very soft and round without it,
but the effect is far inferior to that produced by
the other process.

TRA YS of PapierMm-lze.—There is no rea.
son why dishes, trays, pails, bottles and other
utensils for photographers’ use should not be
made of papier mache. This material is not liable
to shrink or break. It is very light, unacted
upon by acids, impervious to water, unaffected
by silver, and is in every way preferable to ordi.
nary porcelain. The difference in cost as com-
pared with porcelain is now quite trifling.

VA RNISH fbr Colored Drawings—«Take of
Canada balsam, I oz.; spirit of turpentine, 2 025.
Mix them together. Before this com osition is
applied, the drawing or print shoul be sized
with a solution of isinglass in water; and when
dry apply the varnish with a camel’s hair brush.

VA RNISH (Campfiomtm’ Martir) for Pain!-
z'72gr.—Take of mastic cleaned and washed, 12
oz.; pure turpentine, 1% oz.; camphor, % oz.;
white glass pounded, 5 oz.; essence of turpentine,

6 oz. Make the varnish according to theme.
thod indicated for Compound Mastic Varnish.
The camphor is employed in pieces, and the tur.
pentine is added when the solution of the resin is
completed. But if the varnish is to be applied to
old paintings, or paintings which have been a].
ready varnished, the turpentine may be suppress.
ed; as this ingredient is here recommended only
in cases of a first application to new paintings,
and just freed from white-of—egg varnish.

The question by able masters respecting the
kind of varnish proper to be employed for paint-
ings, has never yet been determined. Some artists
who have paid particular attention to this subject,
make a mystery of the means they employ to ob—
tain the desired effect. The real end may be ac-
complished by giving to the varnish destined for
painting, pliability and softness, without being
too solicitous in regard to what may add to its
consistence or its solidity. The latter quality is
particularly requisite in varnishes which are to be
applied to articles much exposed to friction; such
as boxes, furniture, etc.

VARNISH, Elcfiing.—1. Take of virgin wax
and asphaltum, each 2 oz.; of black pitch and
Burgundy pitch, each % oz.; melt the wax and
pitch in a new earthenware glazed pot, and add
to them, by degrees, the asphaltum, finely pow-
dered. Let the whole boil, simmering gradually,
till such time as that, taking a drop upon a plate,
it will break when it is cold. on bending it double
two or three times betwixt the fingers. The var-
nish, being then boiled enough, must be taken
off the fire, and, after it cools a little, must be
poured into warm water that it may work the
more easily with the hands, so as to be formed
into balls, which must be kneaded, and put into
a piece of taffety for use.—2. White wax, 2 02.;
black and Burgundy pitch, of each % oz.; melt

 

PRESERVING AND STORING.

together, add by degrees powdered asphaltum,
2 oz., and boil till a. drop taken out on a plate
will break when cold by being bent double 2 or
3 times between the fingers; .it must then be
oured into warm water and made into small
alls for use.
WASHING SODA, Improved ruéslitulefir.
--It has been found that the hyposulphite of soda,

. 293

which is now manufactured very cheaply, for the
use of photographers, is much better than the
common washing soda to wash delicate objects.
It attacks neither the skin of the hands nor the
objects to be washed, as does the common soda;
and at the same time it is an effective bleaching
agent, and takes out many spots better than any
other substance.

'PRESERVING AND STORING.

ANCHO VIES, English—Sprats, I bushel;
salt, 7 pounds; saltpetre, 3 pounds; prunella, %
pound; cochineal to color slightly. Pound in a
mortar, then put into a stone pan or empty an-
chovy barrel, first a layer of sprats, then one of
the composition, then a layer of sprats, and so
on, until it is filled. Press down tight, and keep
them for six months.

APPLE BUTTER. —Select two bushels of
sour apples, and peel, core and quarter them.
Take a barrel of good sweet apple cider, and boil
it in a copper kettle until all the impurities have
risen to the surface. After this is done, and the
impurities skimmed off, take out two thirds of
the cider. Then put in the apples, and as the
quantity boils down put in the rest of the cider.
After putting in the apples the butter must be
stirred without interruption until it is taken off.
It will take about five hours boiling after the
apples are ut into the cider. It should be boiled
until the w ole mass becomes smooth and of the
same consistency, and of a dark brown color.
Spice with ground cloves and cinnamon, to taste.
The butter can then be taken off and put into
vessels for use. Earthen crocks are best for this
purpose. Tie the vessels over with heavy paper
and set them away in a dry place. The butter
will keep a year it wanted. _

A PPLE BUTTER, (Pennsylvania met/Lad.)
——Boil new cider down to one half. Pare, cut,
and core equal quantities of sweet and sour ap-
ples. Put the sweet apples in a large kettle to
soften a little first, as they are the hardest. Add
enough boiled cider to cook them. After boiling
half an hour, stirring often, put in the sour ap-
ples, and add more boiled cider with molasses
enough to sweeten moderately. Boil until ten-
der, stirring to prevent burning. Pack in firkins
or stone pots for winter use. '

APPLES, T a Dry.—The most'general me-
thod adopted in drying apples is, after they are
pared, to cut them in slices, and spread them on
cloths, tables, or boards, and dry them out-doors.
In clear and dry weather this is, perhaps, the
most expeditious and best way; but in cloudy
and stormy weather this way is attended with
much inconvenience, and sometimes loss, in con-
sequence of the apples rotting before they dry.
To some extent they may be dried in this way in
the house, though this is attended with much in-
convenience. The best method that I have ever
used to dry apples is to use frames. These com-
bine the most advantages with the least incon-
venience of any way, and can be used with equal
advantage either in drying in the house or out in

 

the sun. In pleasant weather the frames can bej
set out-doors against the side of the building, or
any other support, and nights, or cloudy and
stormy days, they can be brought into the house,
and set against the side of the room near the
stove or fire-place. Frames are made in the fol-
lowing manner: Two strips of board, 7 feet long,
2 or 2'; inches wide—two strips 3 feet long, 1%
inches wide, the whole % of an inch thick—nail
the short strips across the ends of the long ones,
and it makes a frame 7 by 3 feet, which is a con-
venient size for all purposes. On one of the long
strips nails are driven 3 inches apart, extending
from the top to the bottom. After the apples are
pared, they are quartered and cored, and with a
needle and twine, or stout thread strung into
lengths long enough to reach twice across the
frame; the ends of the twine are then tied together,
and the strings hung on the nails across the
frame. The apples will soon dry so that the
strings can be doubled on the nails, and fresh
ones put on or the whole of them removed, and
others put in their place. As fast as the ap les
become sufficiently dry they can be taken fi‘Dmn
the strings, and the same strings used to dry
more on. If large apples are used to dry, they
can be cut in smaller pieces. Pears and quinces,
and other fruits that can be strung, may be dried
in this wa .

APPLE 7AM—The apples, which should be
ripe, and of the best eating sort, being pared and
quartered, are put into a pan with just water to
cover them, and boiled until they can be reduced
to a mash. Then for each pound of the ared
apples, a pound of sifted sugar is added, eing
sprinkled over the boiling mixture. Boil and stir
it well, until reduced to a j am. Then put it into pots.

The above is the most simple way of making
it; but to have it of the best possible clearness,
make a thick syrup with three pounds of sugar to
each pint of water, and clarify it with an egg, as
before directed. Then add one pint of this syrup
for every three pounds of apples, and boil the
jam to a proper thickness.

APPLE 7ELLY. -—- Take any quantity of
sound common apples, those with red skins make
the brightest colored jelly; wash carefully, but
do not peel them; fill a preserving-pan with the
apples, and just cover them with water; boil till
they are all in a pulp, then strain it through a
hair sieve. To every pint of juice add one pound
of white sugar, and a little essence of lemon;
boil the whole till it is perfectly clear, and jellies
when cold ; it ought to turn out of a shape quite

stiff and clear.

c

294

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

APPLE IIIARMALADE.—Peel and core
two pounds sub-acid apples and put them in an
enameled saucepan with one pint of sweet cider,
or half a pint of pure wine, and one pound of
crushed sugar, and cook them by a gentle heat
three hours, or longer, until the fruit is very
soft, and then squeeze it first through a colander
and then through a sieve. If not sufficiently
sweet, add powdered sugar to suit your taste,

‘and put away in jars made air~tight by a piece of

wet bladder.

APPLES, Preserving—I. By selecting the
best of fruit, and carefully enveloping each
specimen separately in paper so that the air can-
not pass through, the time of keeping in a sound
and eatable condition can be greatly prolonged.
After covering each apple with paper, select a
light wooden box and cover it on the inside, or
outside, with paper either before, or after put-
ting in the fruit, as the case may be. Those
persons who are desirous of preserving a small
quantity of apples will be amply repaid for their
trouble by trying the above experiment. The
fruit should not be disturbed after packing until
the box is opened at the time the fruit is to be
eaten—2. A layer of dry sawdust was sprinkled
at the bottom of the box, and then a layer of
apples placed in it so that they did not touch each
other. Upon these were placed a little layer of
sawdust, and so on until the box was filled. The
boxes, after being packed in this way, were plac-
ed on the wall in the cellar, up from the ground,
where they kept, perfectly retaining their fresh-
ness and flavor, until brought out.—3. Apples
for keeping should be laid out on a dry floor for
three weeks. They then may be packed away
in layers, with dry straw between them. Each
apple should be rubbed with a dry cloth as it is
put away. They should be kept in a cool place,
but should be sufficiently covered with straw to
protect them from frost. They should be pluck-
ed on a dry day. They also keep if packed in
dry sand—4. An excellent method for preserv-
ing apples through the winter is to put them in
barrels or boxes, surrounding each apple with
some dry mould or gypsum (plaster of Paris)—
not the calcined used for casts, models, etc.—-—~
and kept in a dry, cool outhouse.

APPLES (Cmé), Preserving—The fruit is
prepared by first cutting out all decayed por—
tions ; then wash clean, and place in a kettle with
suflicient water to cover the fruit entirely. Have
a tight-fitting lid to the kettle and boil, over a
moderate fire, until the fruit is soft enough to
pierce with a straw; drain off the water, and
strain through acoarse cloth or jelly bag, and set
it aside for jelly. The apples, in boiling, will
have burst their skins, which are easily removed;
the cores are taken out by pushing them through
from the blossom end, with a goose uill or a
stick of equal thickness, being carefu to press
the stem end against the fingers to prevent break-
ing the apple. The fruit is now ready to pre-
serve whole or to make into marmalade; for
either, the proportions are: 4 lbs. of fruit, 3 lbs.
of sugar, and I pint of water. Put the sugar
and water into the preserving kettle, set it over
the fire until it boils, then dro in the fruit, (if it
is to be done whole), boil unti clear, and remove
intoa jar. If there is more syrup than will be
needed, boil down to the desired quantity; pour
it over the fruit while hot, and cover with a
doth, cut of sufficient size to cover and tie down.

 

 

This cloth dip into a cement made of two parts
of bees-wax to one of rosinaadding enough tal-
low or lard to keep it from cracking. While the
whole is warm, draw the cloth tightly over the
top of the jar and tie down. To make marmalade,
the boiled fruit must be mashed to a pul before
being added to the syrup, and then boi ed, and
stirred until it becomes clear, which is usually in
half an hour.

APPLE (Crud) am.—Pare the crab apples
when quite ripe. ut them into a stone jar,
cover it well, and put it in a pan of boiling water
for an hour and a half. Then prepare the syrup
with two pounds of sugar in half a pint of water,
for every pound of the apples. Clarify the syrup.
Then put the apples into it, and boil the whole to
a Jam.

APPLES (Pine), To Pressman—Cut the pine-
apples into slices about half an inch thick, put
them into a jar, make a syrup, using half a
pound of sugar to a pint of water, and let it sim-
mer quietly till dissolved. Let it stand a day,
and then pour it cold over the fruit; after a short
time take it away, and let it simmer again, hav-
ing added a little more sugar. Repeat this pro-
cess three or four times, and the last time pour
the syrup boiling over the fruit.

APR] C 0 TS, Dried—Thrust out the stones
with a wooden skewer, then pare them and roll
them in dry powdered lump sugar; afterwards
put them into a cold syrup, made with 2 lbs. of
lump sugar to % of a pint of water, and heat
them gradually nearly to the boiling point, turn—
ing them frequently. Then pour them into a
deep dish, and next day scald them again,'adding
as much sugar as will dissolve; again let them
rest until the next day, when tlieyi'must be placed
on a hair sieve to drain and dry.

The fruit should not be quite ripe. Some-
times the apricots are cut into halves or quarters
before preserving, and at other times pickled
with the skins on ; in the latter case they are
gathered sooner, and infused in cold water with
some vine leaves; next taken out and gently im-
mersed in fresh water until they turn yellow,
and then rubbed with a flannel and some salt to
remove the down; they are then again soaked in
the pan with the vine leaves, until they turn
greenish. The best are selected, rubbed dry,
the stones extracted, and boiled in syrup as above
described.

APRICOT 7Ajll.——Let the fruit be just in
maturity, but not over ripe. Remove the skins,
then cut the apricots in halves. Crack the
stones, take out the kernels, bleach them in
boiling water, and then pound them in a mortar.
Boil the broken stones, skins, and parings, in
double the quantity of water required for the
jam. Reduce it in the boiling to one half of its
original quantity. Then strain it through a jelly
bag. To each pound of prepared apricots put a
quarter of a pint of this Juice, 3 pound of sifted
loaf sugar, and the pounded kernels. Put it on
the fire, which should be brisk, and stir the
whole with a wooden spoon until it is of a nice
consistence, but without being very stiff, or it
would have a bad flavor. Put it immediately
into pots, and let these stand uncovered during
twenty-four hours. Then strew a little sifted
sugar over the upper surface of the jam in each

t, and tie egged pa er over each pot.

APRICOT 7EL Y. —Pare the fruit thin,
and stone it; weigh an equal quantity of sugar

!

PRESERVING AND STORING.

in fine powder, and strew over it. Stand one
day, then boil very gently till they are clear,
move them into a bowl, and pour the liquor
over. The next day pour the liquor to a_ quart
of codling liquor; let it boil quickly till it Will
jelly; put the fruit into it, and boil; skim well,
and put into small pots. '

BA CON.—The reputation of the Hampshire
bacon is owing entirely to the care with which it
is cured. The hogs, which are iatted on peas
and barley meal, are kept fasting for twenty-four
hours at least before they are killed; they are
used as gently as possible in the act of killing,
which is done by inserting a long-pointed knife
into the main artery which comes from the heart.
The hair is burnt off with lighted straw, and the
dirty surface of the skin scraped off. The carcass
is hung up after the entrails have been removed,
and the next day, when the meat has become
quite cold, it is cut up into flitches. The spare-
ribsare taken out, and the bloody veins care-
fully removed; the whole is then covered with
salt, with a small quantity of saltpetre mixed
with it. Sometimes a little brown sugar is added,
which gives a pleasant sweetness to the bacon.
The flitches are laid on a low wooden table,
which has a small raised border at the lower end.
The table slants a little, so as to let the brine
run off into a vessel placed under it, by a small
opening in the border at the lower end.

The flitches are turned up and salted every
day; those which were uppermost areput under,
and in three weeks they are ready to be hung up
to dry. Smoking the bacon is no longer as com-
mon as it used to be, as simply drying in the
salt is found sufficient to make it keep. Those
who from early association like the flavor given
by the smoke of wood burn sawdust and shav-
ings in a smothered fire for some time under the
flitches.

When they are quite dry they are placed on a
board rack for the use of the family, or are pack-
ed with wheat chaff into chests till they are sold.
The practice of cutting the hogs into pieces and
pickling them in a vat, being attended with less
trouble, is very generally preferred when there is
only a sufficient number of hogs killed to serve
the farmer’s family; but flitches of bacon well
cured are more profitable for sale. Corn-fed
bacon is at least equal if not superior to the bar-
ley-fed, which is considered the prime article in
England.

BEEF, T a C urea—Cut up the beef, and weigh
and bulk it up, sprinkling a little salt over it,
and let it lay ten or twelve hours, then pack it
down in the barrel. To one hundred pounds of
beef take one quart of salt, three and one half

ints of molasses, one tablespoonful of saltpetre.

ut all this into sufficient water to cover the
beef; boil the pickle, and skim 01? all the scum,
and when cold pour it over the beef, and weigh
it down. Keep the beef covered with the
pickle.

BEEF, DRY. —The good qualities of dried b

beef as an article of food for the family are not
fully appreciated. In point of excellence it is
one of the nicest articles, when properly prepa-
red, that we have in our store-room. It 15 also
one of the most economical articles of food; quite
a small quantity of dried beef, shaved very fine,
and cooked with a nice gravy, will serve for meat
for a family at very small expense. Then it is
so convenient to have; always ready; always

 

295

acceptable. To people who live convenient to
market, it is not of so much importance ; but to
us, who live at a distance from towns, dried beef
is one of the necessary articles in our bill of fare.
We frequently entertain guests at our table who
never have seen dried beef served other than as
a relish for bread and butter, shaved and eaten
without cooking. There are several methods of
cooking it. Some prefer it cooked with a gravy
of water, seasoned with butter, thickened with
flour, and perhaps eggs broken in while cooking.
Others cook it with crumbs of sausage, frying
the sausage first, then adding the beef with wa-
ter, and thickening with flour. It is also very
good cooked with a little sweet milk and sweet
cream, the gravy being thickened with flour;
allow it to boil once; that is all the cooking it
requires. A dish of dried beef, properly cooked,
served with toast, baked potatoes, and boiled
eggs, is a very nice prbvision for breakfast or a
dinner prepared in haste. When too salt, it can
be remedied by soaking, after cutting and before,
and adding a little white sugar while cooking,
to restore the sweetness lost by soaking. Sugar
cured beef is much nicer than that cured with
salt alone. I put mine into a sweet brine, such
as is used for pork hams.

BEEF, P1CKLED.—Rub each piece of beef
very lightly with salt; let them lie singly on a
tray or board for 24 hours, then wipe them very
dry. Pack them closely in a tub, taking care
that it is perfectly sweet and clean. Have the
pickle ready, made thus: Boil four gallons of
soft water with ten pounds of coarse salt, four
ounces of saltpetre, and two pounds of coarse
brown sugar; let it boil 15 minutes, and skim it
while boiling very clean. When perfectly cold
pour it on the beef, laying a‘weight on the top to
keep the meat under the pickle. This quantity
is sufficient for 100 lbs. of beef it closely packed.

BEANS, T a keep Frey/z for W'z'nter.—Procure
a wide mouthed stone jar, lay on the bottom of it
some freshly pulled French beans, and over them
put a layer of salt; fill the jar up in this manner
with alternate layers of beans and salt. The
beans need not all be put in at the same time,
but they are better if the salt be put on while the
are quite fresh. They will keep good all throug
the winter. When going to use them, steep for
some hours in fresh cold water.

BLACKBERRY .714 [IL—Gather the fruit in
dry weather; allow half a pound of good brown
sugar to every pound of fruit; boil the whole to-
gether gently for an hour, or till the blackberries
are soft, stirring and mashing them well. Pre-
serve it like any other jam, and it will be found
very useful in families, particularly for children
—- regulating their bowels, and enabling you to
dispense with cathartics. It may be spread on
bread, or on puddings, instead of butter; and
even when the blackberries are bought, it is
cheaper than butter. In the country, every fam-
ily should preserve, at least, half a peek of black-
erries.

BLA CKBERR Y S YR UR—Take a sufficient
quantit of ripe blackberries. Put them into a
sieve p aced over a large broad pan, and with a
clean potato masher, or something of the sort,
press out all the juice. Or havingbruised them first,
put the blackberries into a linen bag, and squeeze
out all the juice into a vessel placed beneath. Meas-
ure it, and to every quart of the strained juice
allow half a pound of powdered loaf sugar,

 

, __._.

296 DICTIONARY OFEVER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

a heapened teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon,
the same of powdered cloves, and a powdered
nutmeg. Mix the spices with the juice and sugar,
and boil all together in a porcelain kettle, skim-
ming it well. When cold, stir into the above
quantity half a pint of fourth proof brandy. Then
bottle it for use. This is a good family medicine,
and is beneficial in complaints incident to warm
weather.

It should be administered at proper times (at
proper intervals), from a. teaspoonful to a wine-
glassful, according to the age of the patient.

BOUQUET, To keep B7ig/zt and Frau/z.—
Sprinkle it lightly with fresh water, and put it in
a vase containing soap-suds. Each morning take
the bouquet out of the suds, and lay it sideways
in clean water; keep it there a minute or two,
then take it out and sprinkle the flowers lightly
by the hand with water. Replace it in the suds,
and it will bloom as when first gathered. Change
the suds every three or four days.

BUTTER, To keep Swat—Simply put it in
clean jars and cover with a strong brine. This
will keep pure butter a year fresh and sweet, as
we know by experience. It is almost equally
good to put in oak casks headed tight. This is
equivalent to canning fruit. The brine in the
case of the jar acts as a heading, keeping the air
out. But butter should be made well. Work
out the buttermilk till you have only pure beads
clear as water; but do not work so much as to
break the grain.

BUTTER, To keep in Summer.—A simple
mode of keeping butter in warm weather, where
ice is not handy, is to invert a common flower
pot over the butter, with some water in the dish
in which the butter is laid. The orifice in the
bottom may be corked or not. The porousness
of the earthenware will keep the butter cool. It
will be still cooler if the pot be wrapped with a
wet cloth. Not the porosity of the earthenware,
but the rapid abstraction of heat by external
evaporation causes the butter to become hard.

CA BEA GES, To Preserve in W'im‘en—Sink
a barrel in the ground to within an inch or two
of the top, cut off the heads and fill the barrel
full, put on a board to keep out water, and that
is all the covering that is needed.

CA BBA GE , T o Firkin—Select firm, ripe heads,
slice fine, place in jars, and cover with boiling
water. When cold, drain and season with sliced
horse-radish, salt, equal parts of black and red
pepper, cinnamon and cloves. Pack in jars, cover
with cold, strong vinegar, and in two days it is
ready for use. This pickle will keep a year.

CABBAGE (Red) To Pickle. ——Cut the red
cabbage in thin slices, spread it on a sieve and
sprinkle with salt. Let it drain for twenty-four
hours, dry it, pack it in pickle jars, fill them with
cold vinegar, put in spice to taste, and tie the
jars up firmly with bladder. Open the jars in a
few days, and if the cabbage has shrunk, fill up
with vinegar.

CA L VES ’ FEET yELL K—Boil 2 calves’
feet in one gallon of water till it comes to a quart,
then strain it, and when it is cold, skim the fat
entirely off, and take the jelly up clean; if there
be any settling at the bottom, leave it. Put the
jelly into a saucepan, with a pint of mountain
wine, half a pound of loaf sugar, the juice of four
large lemons, and the white of six eggs, beat up
the whisk; mix all well together, set the sauce-
pan upon a clear fire, and stir the jelly till it

 

boils. When it has boiled a few minutes, pour
it through a flannel bag till it runs clear. Then
have in readiness a large china basin, with some
lemon-peel in it, cut as thin as possible, let the
clear jelly run upon them while warm, and from
these it will acquire both an amber color, and an
agreeable flavor. Afterwards it may be poured
into glasses.

CANNING FRUIYI—The principle should
be understood, in order to work intelligently.
The fruit is preserved by placing it in a vessel
from which the external air is entirely excluded.
This is effected by surrounding the fruit by liquid,
and by the use of heat to rarify and expel the air
that may be entangled in the fruit or lodged in its
pores. The preservation does not depend upon
sugar, though enough of this is used in the liquid
which covers the fruit to make it palatable. The
heat answers another purpose; it destroys the
ferment which fruits naturally contain, and as
long as they are kept from contact with the ex-
ternal air they do not decompose.

The vessels in which fruits are preserved are
tin, glass, and earthenware. Tin is used at the
factories where large quantities are put up for
commerce, but is seldom used in families, as more
skill in soldering is required than most persons
possess. Besides, the tins are not generally safe to
use more than once. Glass is the preferable ma-
terial, as it is readily cleaned and allows the in-
terior to be frequently inspected. Any kind of
bottle or jar that has a mouth wide enough to
admit the fruit and that can be securely stopped,
positively air-tight—which is much closer than
water-tight—will answer. Jars of various pat-
terns and patents are made for the purpose, and
are sold at the crockery and grocery stores. These
have wide mouths, and a glass or metallic cap
which is made to fit very tightly by an India-
rubber ring between the metal and the glass.
The devices for these caps are numerous, and '
much ingenuity is displayed in inventing them.
We have used several patterns without much dif-
ference in success, but have found there was some
difference in the facility with which the jars could
be opened and closed. The best are those in which
atmospheric pressure helps the sealing, and
where the sole dependence is not upon screws
or clamps. To test a jar, light a slip of paper
and hold it within it. The heat of the flame Wlll
expand the air and drive out a portion of it. Now
put on the cap; when the jar becomes cool the
air within will contract, and the pressure of the
external air should hold the cover on so firmly
that it cannot be pulled off without first letting in
air by pressing aside the rubber or by such other
means as is provided in the construction of the
jar. When regular fruit jars are not used, good
corks and cement must be provided.

Cement is made by melting 1% oz. of tallow
with I lb. rosin. The stiffness of the cement
may be overned b the use of more or less tal-
low. A ter the jar is corked, tie a piece of stout
drilling over the mouth. Dip the cloth on the
mouth of the jar into the melted cement, rub the
cement on the cloth with a stick to break up the
bubbles, and leave a close coverin .

The rocess. Everything shou d be in readi-
ness, lie jars clean, the covers well fitted, the
fruit picked over or otherwise prepared, and ce.
ment and corks, if these are used, at hand. The
bottles or jars are to receive a very hot liquid,
and they must be gradually warmed beforehand,

PRESERVIJVG AND STORING.

297

 

by placing warm water in them, to which boiling
water is gradually added. Commence by making
a syrup in the proportion of a. pound of white
sugar to a pint of water, using less sugar if this

uantity will make the fruit too sweet. When
t e syrup boils, add as much fruit as it will cover,
let the fruit heat in the syrup gradually, and when
it comes to a boil ladle it into the jars or bottles
which have been warmed as above directed. Put
in as much fruit as possible, and then add the
s rup to fill up all the interstices among the fruit;
t en put on the cover or insert the stopper as
soon as possible. Have a cloth at hand dampen-
ed in hot water to wipe the necks of the Jars.
. When one lot has been bottled, proceed with
more, adding more sugar and water if more syrup
is required. Juicy fruits will diminish the syrup
much less than others. When the bottles are
cold, put them away in a cool, dry, and dark
place. Do not tamper with the covers in any
way. The bottles should be inspected every
day for a week or so, in order to discover if any
are imperfect. If fermentation has commenced,
bubbles will be seen in the syrup, and the covers
will be loosened. If taken at once, the contents
may be saved by thoroughly reheating—Another
way is to prepare a syrup and allow it to cool.
Place the fruit in the bottles, cover with the syrup
and then set the bottles nearly up to their rims
in a boiler of cold water. Some wooden slats
should be placed at the bottom of the boiler to
keep the bottles from contact with it. The water
in the boiler is then heated and kept boiling until
the fruit in the bottles is thoroughly heated
through, when the covers are put on, and the
bottles allowed to cool. It is claimed that the
flavor of the fruit is better preserved in this way
than by the other- -

What may be Preserved—All the fruits that
are used in their fresh state or for pies, etc., and
Rhubarb, or Pie-plant, and Tomatoes. Green
Peas, and Corn, cannot be readily preserved in
families, as they require special apparatus. Straw-
berries. Hard-fleshed sour varieties, such as the
Wilson, are better than the more delicate kinds.
Directions for these, as well as for Raspberries,
will be found in a Basket item.

Currants need more sugar than the foregoing.
Blackberries and Huckleberries are both very
satisfactorily preserved, and make capital pies.
Cherries and Plums need only picking over.
Peaches need peeling and quartering. The skin
may be removed from ripe peaches by scalding
them in water or weak lye for a few seconds, and
then transferring them to cold water. Some ob-
tain a strong peach flavor by boiling a few peach
meats in the syrup. We have had peaches keep
three years, and were then better than those sold
at the stores. Pears are pared and halved, or
quartered, and the core removed. The best, high-
flavored and melting varieties only should be
used. Coarse baking pears are unsatisfactory.
Apples Very few put up these. Try some
big -flavored ones, and you will be pleased with
them. Quinces. There is a great contrast be-
tween qumces preserved in this way and those
done up in the old way of pound for pound.
They do not become hard, and they remain of a
fine light color. Tomatoes require cooking
.onger than the fruits proper. See directions for
these among Basket items. Any intelligent per-
son who understands the principle upon which
fruit is preserved in this way, will soon find the

 

mechanical part easy of execution and the results
satisfactory.

CA ULIFLOWER, T o Keeps—They can be
kept in a cellar by covering the roots and stalks
with earth, till February. Or they may be placed
in a trench in the garden, roots down, and cov-
ered with earth, up close to the heads; and then
cover with hay, or straw, four or five inches thick,
placing just enough soil on the straw to keep it
in its position. This method does well in the
latitude of New York; but in colder climates a
thicker covering would be re uired.

CELERY, T 0 [(6811—1113 may be kept in
good condition through the winter in a cool, dry
cellar, by having it set out in earth. When a
small quantity only is wanted, take a box and
stand the celery up in it, placing a little earth
about the roots. The farmers who raise qualiti-
ties of it often keep it in their old hot-beds, stand-
ing it up, and protecting it from frost. There is
no vegetable more relished than this, and every
person who has a garden should raise enough for
his own use, if no more.

CHERRY CHEESE.—Take twelve pounds
of juicy cherries, stone them, and boil them for
two hours, till they become a little clOggy, but
take care that they do not burn. Then add to
them four pounds of fine sugar, and boil another

hour.

CHERRY f/IllL—VVeigh the fruit before it
is stoned, and to each pound of fruit allow three
quarters of a pound of sugar; stone the cherries
and set them with the sugar and a few spoonfuls
of water in the preserving—pan, to simmer gently
beside the fire for half an hour. Then boil quickly,
skimming all the time, for another half-hour. It
is recommended to crack the cherry stones and
put the kernels into the jam, but as this is both
tedious and troublesome, a few drops of ratafia
or almond essence will be found quite as good.

CIIERRYfllAR/llALADE.——Take out the
stones and stalks from some fine cherries, and
pulp them through a coarse sieve; to every three
pounds of pulp add half a pint of currant-juice,
and three—quarters of a pound of sugar to each
pound of fruit; mix together, and boil until it will
jelly. Put it into pots or glasses.

CHERRIES, T a P7werve.—-To a pound of
cherries, allow three quarters of a pound of fine
loaf sugar: carefully stone them, and as they are
done throw part of the sugar over them; boil them
fast with the remainder of the sugar, till the fruit
is clear and the syrup thick. Take off the scum
as it rises.

CH UT NE Y, Bengal.—One pound of tamas
rind pulp, one pound of sultana raisins, the grated
rind and half the juice of twelve lemons, one
pound of tomato pulp, one pound of minced ap-
ples, a quarter of a ound of peeled garlic, six
chopped onions, ha] a pound of red chillies, one
pound of ginger in powder, one pound of moist
sugar, and four quarts of strong vinegar. Mix
the whole thoroughly together, and keep it for a
month in a warm place to ferment; stir it occa-
sionally, and then put it into small jars.

CI T ROZV, Candied. -— Cut the peels in half,
then soak them in water for two hours ; change
the water, and soak for two hours more; repeat
the operation until the water ceases to be bitter;
drain them, and put them into saturated (hot)
syrup, until they become soft and partly trans-
parent, then take them out and dry them.

C] T RON, T a Preren/t.—Pare and cut open

298

DICTIONARY OF EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

the Citron, clean all out except the rind; boil it
till soft. To a pound of citron, add a pound of
sugar and a lemon to each pound : put the sugar
and lemon together and boil it till it becomes a
syrup, skimming it well; then put the syrup and
citron together and boil it an hour.

COFFEE, Essence (yi—Coffee, I part; wa-
ter, 5 parts. Keep them at a heat of 209° Fahr.,
in a close vessel for ten minutes, then strain and
evaporate at a low temperature in a vacuum, un-
til reduced to one part.

()0sz (Gram), T o Dry.——-I. Clean the silk
carefully from the corn. Put it in a steamer,
over a kettle of hot water. Steam ten minutes.
Then draw a knife through each row of kernels,
and scrape out the pulp, leaving the hulls on the
cob. Spread on plates and dry carefully without
scorching—2. Husk the corn and silk it. Then
shave it off with a sharp knife. To six quarts of
the shaved corn add a teacup of sugar and stir it
all up together. Put it on a pie platter and plates
and set in the oven. Let it scald ten minutes ;
then take it out and put it on a clean table cloth,

‘ and spread in the sun and let it dry. When dry,
put in a jar or box to keep.

CORN (Green), Pickling—When the corn is
a little past the tenderest roasting ear state, pull
it; take off one thickness of the husk, tie the rest
of the husk down at the silk end in a close and
tight manner; place them in a clean cask or bar-
rel compactly together, and put on brine to cover
the same of about two-thirds the strength of
meat pickle. When ready to use in winter, soak
in cold water over night, and if this does not ap-
pear sufficient, change the water and freshen still
more.

C ORZV, To have Green 1%: year round.—
Gather it with the husks on, put in the bottom
of a clean barrel some salt, proceed and fill the
barrel as with pork, a layer of corn, then a layer
of salt; when full, put on a large stone for pres-
sure, add a little pickle of salt and water. Set
the barrel in a cool place in the cellar, do not let
it freeze, and it will keep perfect a year or more.
When you wish to use it, take off the husks, soak
it twenty hours in cold water, boil it and eat.
Some days in February you can eat succotash and
laugh at the storm. For this purpose, Stowell’s
Evergreen is best, but any good sweet corn will
do. Used in this way, it can be enjoyed, as it is
never hurtful. .

CUCU/WBERS (Green), To Pickle—Make
a brine by putting one pint of rock-salt into a
pail of boiling water, and pour it over the
cucumbers ; cover tight to keep in the steam,
and let them remain all night and part of a day;
make a second brine as above, and let them re-
main in it the same length of time; then scald
and skim the brine, as it will answer for the third
brine, and let them remain in it as above; then
rinse and wipe them dry, and add boiling hot
vinegar; throw in a lump of alum as large as a
nut to every pail of pickles, and you will have a
fine, hard, and green pickle. Add spices, if you
like, and keep the pickles under the vinegar. A
brick on the top of the cover, which keeps the
pickles under, has a. tendency to collect the scum
which may arise.

C UC OYIIBERS, Ta Green—There is no way
to impart a green color to cucumbers, that would
not be injurious to health, except by the use of

rcen leaves, like those from the grape vine.
ossibly sap green, which is a preparation from

 

the juice of buck-thorn berries, would answer
the purpose if it could be obtained here. Ver-
digris can be detected in nearly all the pickles of
commerce; but its use is highly objectionable, as
it is a poisonous acetate of copper. Pickles may
be colored with it if the people place a higher
regard on the color of the condiment they eat
than on their health. Nearly all the shades of
green are produced from some combination of
arsenic, but this fact does not prevent the use of
them for coloring confectioner .

CURRANT CA TCHUP.——Nice fully ripe.
currants, 4 lbs.; sugar, 1% lbs.; cinnamon,
ground, I table-spoon; salt, with ground cloves
and pepper, of each I tea-spoon ; vinegar, 1 pt.
Stew the currants and sugar until quite thick;
then add the other ingredients, and bottle for

use.

CURRANT (Red), yell} —With three parts
of fine, ripe, red currants, mix one of white cur-
rants ; put them into a clean preserving pan, and
stir them gently over a clear fire until the juice
flows from them freely; then turn them into a
fine hair sieve, and let them drain well, but with-
out pressure. Pass the juice through afolded
muslin, or a jelly bag; weigh it, and then boil
it fast for a quarter of an hour; add for each
pound, eight ounces of sugar, coarsely powdered;
stir this to it, off the fire, until it is dissolved;
give the jelly eight minutes more of quick boil-
ing, and pour it out. It will be firm, and of ex-
cellent color and flavor. Be sure to clear off the
scum as it rises, both before and after the sugar
is put in, or the preserve will not be clear. Juice
of red currants, three pounds ; juice of white cur-
rants, one pound: fifteen minutes. Sugar, two
pounds: eight minutes. An excellent jelly may
be made with equal parts of the juice of red and
of white currants and of raspberries, with the
same proportion of sugar and degree of boiling
as mentioned in the foregoing receipt.

CURRAIVTS, To dry will; Sagan—Take
fully ripe currants, stemmed, 51b5,; sugar, I 1b.;
put into a brass kettle, stirring at first, then as
the currants boil up to the top, skim them off;
boil down the juicy syrup until quite thick and
pour it over the currants, mixing well ; then
place On suitable dishes, and dry them by plac-

ing in a low box over which you can place mus- '

keto-bar, to keep away flies. When properly
dried, put in jars and tie paper over them. Put
cold water upon them and stew as other fruit for
eating or pie-making, adding more sugar if
desired.

CURRANT S YR [JR—Take one pint of the
expressed juice of currants and two pounds of
the best refined sugar; dissolve the sugar in the
juice by the aid of heat, not exceeding 212°, and
set aside for twenty-four hours. Then remove
the scum, and strain through very fine muslin,
if any sediment be resent. To preserve for use,
add one gill of alco 01 at 60 per cent.

CURRANT (Black) 731131.—To each pound
of picked fruit, allow one gill of water; set them
on the fire in the preserving pan to scald, but do
not let them boil ; bruise them well with a stlver
fork, or wooden beater,—take them off and
squeeze them through a hair sieve; and to every

int of juice allow a pound of loaf or raw sugar;
oil it ten minutes. ~

C URRA N T 5, To Preserve—Gather the cur-
rants upon a dry day; to every pound allow half
a pint of red currant juice anda pound and a' half

 

PRESER VIA/G AND STORING.

of finely pounded loaf sugar. With scissors clip
of the heads and stalks; put the juice, currants,

and sugar in a preserving pan; shake it frequent-

] till it boils ; carefully remove the fruit from
the sides of the pan, and take off the scum as it
rises; let it boil for ten or fifteen minutes. This
preserve is excellent, eaten with cream.

EGGS, To Pr:.rewe.—I. For each patent pail
full of water ut in one pint of fresh slaked lime,
and 1 pint 0 common salt, mix well, fill your
barrel about half full of this fluid, then with a
dish, let our fresh eggs down into this, and they
will sett e down right side up with care every
time, and we can assure any one who will try it,
that they will keep any reasonable length of time
without any further care than Wep them cov-
ered with the fluid. Eggs may e laid down in
this way any time after June—2. Eggs may be
preserved by keeping them buried in salt, or
dipping them during two or three minutes in
boiling water. The white of the egg then forms
akind of membrane, which envelops the inte-
rior, and defends it from the air.———3. The week
before going to sea, on a four months’ voyage,
I gathered in sixty dozen eggs for cabin sea-
stores, taking especial pains to prove every egg of
the lot a good one; besides, I got them from my
farmer friends, and know they were all fresh.
Then I fixed them for keeping, by taking five or
six dozen at a time in a basket, and dipping them
about five seconds in the cook’s “copper” of
boiling water. After scalding, I passed the eggs
through a bath, made by dissolving about five
pounds of the cheapest brown sugar in a gallon
of water, and laid them out on the galley floor to
dry. There I had my sixty dozen eggs sugar-
coated. I packed them in charcoal dust instead
of salt; I tried salt ten years, and I dont believe
it preserves eggs a mite. The steward had strict
orders to report every bad egg he should find.
During the voyage he brought three, not abso-
lutely spoiled, but a little old like. All the others,
or what was left of them, were as fresh when we
came in as they were when I packed them away.
——4. A Parisian paper recommends the following

,method for the preservation of eggs: Dissolve four

ounces of beeswax in eight ounces of warm olive
oil, in this put the tip of the finger and anoint the
egg all round. The oil will immediately be absorb-
ed, and the shell and pores filled up by the wax. If
kept in a cool place the eggs, after two years, will
be as good as if fresh laid.-——5. Take of quick lime
one pound; salt,one pound; saltpetre, three ounces;
water, one gallon. It is necessarythat the solution be
boiled ten or fifteen minutes, and when cold put
in the eggs, small end downward, using a vessel
lined with lead, and placing in a cold but dry cel-
lar.—6. Dip them into a solution of gun-cotton,
(collodion), so as to exclude the air from the
pores of the shell; or the collodion may be applied
with a brush.—7. A writer recommends the dis.
solving of gum shellac in alcohol, when the mix-
ture may be applied with a common paint-brush.
When dry, pack in bran, points downward.
Eggs so preserved will keep a very long time.
When about to be used, the varnish may be
washed off—8. Get a good sweet wooden box,
put about an inch of salt on the bottom; take
sweet grease of any kind, lard or drippings, rub
the eggs all over with it and put them, the little
end down, in the salt; then spread a layer of salt
and then add more eggs.-9. Pack the eggs in a
cask with the smaller end downward; and fill up

 

299.

the cask with melted tallow. This method is
practiced very extensively in Russia and in other
parts of Europe, and is generally successful.—
10. Keep them at the temperature of 40° or less
in a refrigerator. Specimens had been exhibited,
which were fourteen months old, and still per-
fectly fresh and sweet—II. Apply with a brush
a solution of gum arabic to the shells, or immerse
the eggs therein; let them dry, and afterwards
pack them in dry charcoal dust. This revents
their being affected by any alterations o tempe-
rature—12. Of all the materials that have been
recommended for this purpose, water glass, or
silicate of soda, is the most effectual and least
objectionable. .

EGGS, To Dry.—The eggs are beaten to uni-
form consistency, and spread out in thin cakes on
batter plates. This dries them into a paste, which
is to be packed in close cans and sealed. When
required for use, the paste can be dissolved in
water, and beaten to a foam like fresh eggs. It
is said that eggs can be preserved for years in
this way, and retain their flavor.

EGGS, P]C1(L1NG.—At the season of the
year when the stock of eggs is plentiful, cause
some four or six dozen to be boiled in a capacious
saucepan until they become quite hard. Then,
after removing the shells, lay them carefully in
large mouthed jars, and pour over them scalding
vinegar, well seasoned with whole pepper, all-
spice, a few races of ginger, and a few cloves of
garlic. When cold they are bunged down close,
and in a month are fit for use. Where eggs are
plentiful, the above pickle is by .no means expen-
sive, and as an acetic accompaniment to cold
meat, it can not be outrivaled.

EGGS, PORT A BLE .—Take fresh laid eggs,
any quantity, break them into an evaporating ba-
sin, and expose them to a heat of 125° Fahr. in
a water-bath, until hard, then pack them in air-
tight vessels. For use, take cold water, 3 parts;
dried egg, I part. Beat them well together.

FLO WERS, T o Preserve and Restore.——Flow-
ers may be preserved in a fresh state for a con-
siderable time, by keeping them in a moist atmo.
sphere. A flat dish of porcelain had water
poured into it. In the water a vase of flowers
was set; over the whole a bell-glass was placed,
with its rim in the water. The air that surround-
ed the flowers being confined beneath the bell-
glass, was kept constantly moist with the water
that rose into it in the form of vapor. As fast as
the water was condensed it ran down the sides
of the bell-glass back into the dish; and if means
had been taken to inclose the water on the out-
side of the bell-glass,‘so as to preventits evapor-
ating into the air of the sitting room, the atmos‘
phere around the flowers would have remained
continually damp. We recommend those who
love to see plenty of fresh flowers in their sitting—
rooms in dry weather to adopt this method. The
experiment can be tried by inverting a tumbler
over a rose-bud in a saucer of water.

Another method by which some flowers may
be preserved for many months, is to carefully dip
them, as soon as gathered, in perfectly limpid
gum water, and after allowing them to drain 2 or
3 minutes, to set them upright, or arrange them
in the usual manner in an empty vase. The gum
gradually forms a transparent coating on the sur-
face of the petals and stems, and preserves their
figure and color long after they have become dry
and crisp.

\z’

300

DICTIONARY OFEVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

Faded flowers may be general] more or less
restored by immersing them hal -way up their
stems in very hot water, and allowing them to
remain in it until it cools, or they have recovered.
The coddled portion of the stems must then be
cutoff, and the flowers placed in clean cold wa-
ter. In this way a great number of faded flowers
may be restored, but there are some of the more
fugacious kinds, on which it proves useless.

FLOWERS, T o Preserve in Sand—Get the
finest and whitest of river or lake sand, wash it
so clean that the water in flowing from it will be
pure as if from the well. Heat it very hot and
while hot mix it thoroughly with stearic acid in
the proportion of one pound of the latter to one
hundred pounds of sand. Let it cool. Take a

,small common sieve and nail boards under the

I bottom to prevent the sand from running through;

place enough sand in the sieve to hold the
flowers in position—not covering them; then
fwith a sheet of paper twisted in the form of a
cone or funnel, carefully let the sand pass
through it, between, around and over the flow—
ers—cover about half an inch. Set by the stove
or in some warm place where the sand will be
kept at a temperature of seventy degrees Fah-
renheit. When they have remained sufficiently
long, remove the boards carefully from the bot—
tom and let the sand run out, leaving your flow-
ers preserved in perfection. The only difficulty
is to know when the process is complete, di ~
ferent plants differing in the time required, those
with thick leaves and petals needing more than
light ones. N o exact rule can be given on this
point. Seven hours are sufficient for some,
while others require twelve and even more. Ex-
perience alone can determine this. It is best al-
ways for a beginner to experiment with a single
plant at a time at first. When he has succeeded
with a certain variety and noted the time requir-
ed, he can proceed to others, and in a short time
become versed in this art. It should be men-
tioned that the flowers for this purpose should
be picked dry—say midday, after the dew is eva-

porated.

FLOWERS (Cut), To P7'e:emz.—Add to the
water a little of a solution of carbonate of am-
monia and a few drops of phosphate of soda.
The effect of this in giving the flower a deeper
color and a stronger appearance is quite wonder-
ful, and by cutting off every other day about one
half inch of the stems of the flowers with a sharp
knife, they may be kept as long as their natural
life would last.

FRUZ T, KEEPING—Have your cellar or
fruit-room neither too dry nor too moist. This
is indispensable. If moist, your fruit will rot ;
if dry, it will shrink. If you are incredulous
about this, set your fruit in your dwelling-room,
or where there is a high,‘dry temperature. This
will satisfy you as to the shrinking. Dampen a

bin or barrel, and keep so for awhile, (with'the.

fruit in it), and you will need no more urging.
The “course between,” as the old adage has it,

is the right way. I know we are apt to have our

hobbies and go to extremes. The course be-
tween is not always relished. But facts are facts,
and they are not only stubborn, but they will al-
ways remain so.

Fruit must be put where there is not sufficient
moisture to rot it, as an excess will surely do.
On the other hand, the dry must be avoided, or
there will be shrinking and a dry fruit. This is

 

as common an experience as life itself. Open
bins, unless the cellar or fruit-room be very damp,
will dry the fruit. This is generally so. Open
barrels are less affected in this way, but still af-
fected. The best way is to close your barrel .
after the fruit has passed through its sweating,
which it will do in a few days, and leave a small
open space, say a couple of apertures across the
head of the barrel, of half an inch or less in dia-
meter. Or, you are pretty safe (in the case of
apples, which are more particularly referred to)
to head up tight, after the sweating operation
has gone through with, and the fruitis again dry.
This we have found eminently successful. We
have found some mold where the barrel was clos-
ed as soon as filled, the fruit getting moist,
(sweating) and the moisture instead of passing
off by the vent, had to be absorbed by the wood
of the barrel. But before this is done mischief
will be wrought. Still we have known cases of
clear exceptions. But this will not do; we want
cases without exceptions, without doubt; we
want to save our fruit beyond peradventure. And
we can in the way we have described.

As to temperature, this cannot be too low,
providing it does not freeze the fruit. And uni-
formity is almost as important as depression of
heat. These two are the vital and important
points. Kept at the freezing point, or just out
of its range, there will be little change in the
fruit, either to rot or to mature. An apple can
thus be kept “green” the winter through—for
aught we know any apple, but certainly the win-
ter fruit. We have it, therefore, in our power,
to ripen or not as we like, and this is quite an
advantage; to avail ourselves of it any winter
with the greatest of interest, and a most decided
advantage. We could not well do without it.
We keep cold the one part of our cellar, that
containing the spring fruit. Frost sometimes
steals upon us, but we permit it to steal gradually
out again; for the world we would not hurry it,
for that would spoil our fruit. When once frost-
ed we permit it to remain so as long as we can,
for that is a safe keeping so long as it lasts.

A little fresh air seems to be a benefit. It is
hardly our experience, however, as confined
fruit, where the air is not damp or mold infected;
where it is pure, some from the slight evapora-
tion of the fruit, particularly ap le's, have always
kept well with us so far as we ave experiment
ed. Still we see no harm from a change of at-
mosphere of our room. We therefore, when the
air is not damp, occasionally raise our windows a
little, or when the temperature is the same as
that of the cellar, or a little lower. Rashness here
is fatal. If the air without should be warm and
a south wind blow, with the windows raised
there will be such a change as will seriously af-
fect the fruit. The cold air will be driven out of
the cellar or fruit room. Rather let the cold air
in severely.

But uniformity, with a little fresh air occasion-
ally, is what is wanted. -

The following method of preserving apples is
from an English agriculturalperiodical published
more than thirty years ago. As the method pro-
posed is easily available at a farm house and is
simple, we think it worthy of trial: It seems not
to be enerally known that apples may be kept
the w ole‘ year round, by being immersed in
corn, which receives no injur from their con-
tact. If the American app es were packed

 

PRESERVING AND STORING.

3oz

 

among grain, they would arrive here in much
better condition than they do at present. The
word corn, as above used, means any cereal
grain, such as oats or barley, and not simply

aize.
mFRUITS, Preserving by Sulpfiz'tt qf Lime.
-—The great agents in causmg the decay of fruit,
vegetables, wine, etc., are heat and air. If, how-
ever, the latter be excluded, some fruits and

filvegetables, and most wines, will bear a pretty
high temperature. Further, it is only one ele-
ment of the air—the oxygen—that proves so
destructive, and if this be removed, putrefaction
and fermentation are either stopped or greatl
retarded. Some substances have a powerful a -
finity for oxygen, and remove it entirely from
the atmos here, under some circumstances.
Thus, if su phur be burnt in the air, it combines
with the oxygen, forms sulphurous acid, which
dissolves in water or wine, and leaves the re-
maining air free from oxygen. Hence the use
of burning sulphur in wine casks before filling
with wine. The oxygen is all removed, and the
agent which turns alcohol to vinegar not being
present, there is no danger of the wine turning
sour. As a convenient substitute for burning
sulphur, (sulphurous acid), sulphite of lime (a
combination of sulphurous acid and lime) has
been used. It has a strong tendency to absorb
oxygen and become converted into sulphate
of lime (fgypsum). It therefore removes the free
oxygen mm the wine and from the cask, and
entirely suspends the process of acetification, as
it is called—that is the conversion of the alcohol
of the wine into vinegar. For this purpose sul-
hite of lime has been extensively used, especial-
l)y for'the preservation of cider.

It has also been used for the preservation of
fruit. If dissolved in the syrup or water in
which the fruit is placed, it will soon absorb all
the oxygen present, and the fruit will not de-
compose. In the case of wine or cider, however,
the resulting gypsum, which is insoluble, will
fall freely to the bottom of the vessel, and ro-
duce no effect on the wine unless too muc is
used. But in the case of fruit, the sediment is
apt to settle on the fruit, though not to such an
extent as to do much harm. The proper quan-
tity to be used is noted on the bottles in which
the sulphite is sold; and in the case of fruit, an
ex osure to the air for a few hours before use
will in general remove all unpleasant taste or
smell. We must add, however, that although
the process is simple and cheaper than the or-
dinary method of canning fruits, we prefer the
latter.

FRUITS, Candying.—Various fruits may be
candied or crystallized by putting them for a few
hours in scalding hot syrup, made with three
pounds and a half of white sugar, boiled for a

few minutes in one pint of orange flower or rose,

water. The fruit should be steeped in the hot
syrup for two or three hours, then strained, and
put into an oven with the door open. This will
dry the remaining moisture, and the sugar will
crystallize round the fruit.

FRUIT, Drying—When much fruit is dried,
it is necessary to have a house for the purpose.
Small quantities should be so arranged as to be
placed near the kitchen fire when taken in at
night or during stormy days. Those'who have
hot-bed sash, can easily arrange a. drying appara-
tus which will dry rapidly and at the same time

 

keep off insects. A hot-bed frame with a bot-
tom to it, and raised above the ground, makes
a capital drying box. The sash should be elevat-
ed at one end to allow the moisture to pass off,
covering the opening with netting.

FRUI T (Dried), To Protect from Worms.—
It is said that dried fruit put away with a little
bark sassafras (say a large handful to the bushel)
will save for~years, unmolested by those trouble-
some little insects, which so often destroy hund-
reds of bushels in a single season. The remedy
is cheap and simple, but we venture to say a good

one.

GRAPES, To [fern—I. They must not be
too ripe. Take ,off any imperfect grapes from
the bunches. On the bottom of a keg put a
layer of bran that has been well dried in an oven,
or in the sun. On the bran ut a layer of grapes,
with bran between the bunches so that they may
not be in contact. Proceed in the same way with
alternate layers of grapes and bran, till the keg
is full; then close the keg so that no air can
enter.—2. In a box first lay apaper, then a layer
of grapes selecting the best bunches and remov-
ing all imperfect grapes, then another pa er,
then more grapes, and so until the box is ull;
then cover all with several folds of paper or cloth.
Nail on the lid, and set in a cool room where it
will not freeze. I use small boxes, so as not to
disturb more than I want to use in a week or 50.
Give each bunch plenty of room so they will not
crowd, and don’t use newspapers. Some seal
the stems with sealing wax and wrap each bunch
by itself, but I get along without that trouble.
The grapes should be looked to several times
during the winter. Should any mould or decay,
they should be removed and the good ones again
repacked. By this means I have had, with my
pitcher of cider and basket of apples, my plate of
grapes daily, besides distributing some among
my friends and the sick of the neighborhood.—
3. (C/iz'ncre flirt/rod.) It consists in cutting a cir-
cular piece out of a ripepumpkin or gourd, mak-
ing an aperture large enough to admit the hand.
The interior is then completely cleaned out, the
ripe grapes are placed inside, and the cover re-
placed and pressed in firmly. - The pumpkins
are then kept in a cool place—and the grapes will
be found to retain their freshness for a very long
time. We are told that a very careful selection
must be made of the pumpkin, the common field
pumpkin, however, being well adapted for the
purpose in question.

GRAPES (Gram), T o Prrrrrz/e.—The gra es
must not be too old; the best time is just be ore
the seed begins to harden. They are, after being
picked and freed from stems, ut into bottles
(strong wine or champagne bott es are best) so
as nearly to fill the latter. These are then filled
with fresh and clean water. After this they are
all placed in a large kettle, partially filled with
cold water, and the temperature raised nearly to
the boiling point. The water in the bottles ex-
pands by the heat, and part is driven out. As
soon as sufficiently heated, they are taken off,
enough water poured out of each bottle to merely
allow a well-fitting cork to be pressed in tightly.
After being corked they are sealed up with seal-
ing wax or common beeswax. As the bottles
cool down a partial vacuum is left in the neck of
each. Grapes thus preserved have kept for years
in this climate, where canned fruit almost inva-

riably spoils during the hot summers. They

i

302 DICTIONARY OFEVERKDA Y WANTS.

 

can at any time be opened and prepared like
fresh grapes, no difference will be found in the
taste. It is better to use the water, also, in which
they were kept, as it contains a large per centage
of tartaric acid, which gives them the pleasant
sour taste.

GRAPES, Canned. — Squeeze the pulp from
the skin, as the seeds are objectionable; boil the
pulp until the seeds begin to loosen, having the
skins boiling in a little water, hard, as they are
tough. When the pulp seems tender, put it
through the sieve; then add the skins, if tender,
with the water they boil in, if not too much. Use
a large coffee cup of sugar for a quart can; boil
until thick, and can in the usual way.

GRAPE CA T 5 UP. —Take five pounds of
grapes, boiled and cullendered, two and a half
pounds of sugar, one pint of vinegar, one table-
spoonful each of cinnamon, cloves, allSpice and
pepper, and half a tablespoonful of salt. Boil
until the catsup is a little thick.

GRAPE YELLY. —Take some of the best
black grapes, strip them from the stalks, stir
them with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire till
they burst; strain off the juice (without pressing)
through a jelly—bag or thick muslin; weigh the
juice and boil it rapidly for twenty minutes; then
take it from the fire, and to each pound of juice
add fourteen ounces of good sugar roughly
powdered, and boil quickly for a quarter of an

our, stirring it constantly, and skimming it
carefully. It will be quite clear, and of a pale
rose color.

GHERKINS,Pirkled.—Steep them in strong
brine for a week, then pour it off, heat it to the
boiling point, and again pour it on the gherkins;
in 24 hours drain the fruit on a sieve, put it into
wide-mouthed bottles or jars, fill them up with
strong pickling vinegar, boiling hot, bung down
immediately, and tie over with bladder. When
cold, dip the corks into melted bottle wax. Spice
is usually added to the bottles, or else steeped in
the vinegar.

In a. similar way are pickled, onions, mush;
rooms, cucumbers, walnuts, samphires, green
gooseberries, cauliflowers, melons, barberries,
peaches, lemons, tomatoes, beans, radish pods,
codlins, red cabbage,(without salt, and with cold
vinegar,) beet-root, (without salting,) garlic,
peas, etc., etc., observing that the softer and
more delicate articles do not require so long
soaking in brine as the harder and coarser kinds,
and may be often advantageously pickled by

simply pouring verystrong pickling vinegar over'

them, without applymg heat. ,

HA MS, To :zm’. —- For each ham of twelve
pounds weight: Two pounds of common salt;
2 ounces of saltpetre; % pound of bay salt; X
pound of coarse sugar.

This should be reduced to the finest powder.
Rub the hams well with it; female hands are not
often heavy enough to do this thoroughly. Then
place them in a deep pan, and add a wineglassful
of good vinegar. Turn the hams every day; for
the first three or four days rub them well with
the brine; after that time it will suffice to ladle it
over the meat with a wooden or iron spoon.
They should remain three weeks in the pickle.
When taken from it wipe them well, put t em in
bags of brown aper and then smoke them with
wood smoke or three weeks. Most grocers,
dealers in hams, and others, who are particular
in their meat, usually take the precaution to case

 

each one, after it is smoked, in canvas, for the

urpose of defending it from the attacks of the
ittle insect, the dermestes lardarins, which, by
laying its eggs in it, soon fills it with its larvae.
or maggots. This troublesome and expensive
process may be altogether superseded by the use
of pyroligneous acid. With a painter’s brush,
dipped in the liquid, one man, in the course of a
day, may effectually secure two hundred hams
from all danger. Care should be taken to insin-
uate the liquid into all the cracks. etc. , of the
under surface. This method is especially adapted
to the preservation of hams in hot climates.

flA MS, T o cure.-—I. Take 2% pounds sugar, 7
lbs. coarse salt, 2 oz. saltpetre and 4 gallons
water, boil together and put on cool to 100
pounds of meat. Let the meat lie in the pickle
eight weeks.—2.To a cask of hams, say from 25 to
30, after having packed them closely and sprin-
kled them slightly with salt, I let them lie thus
for 3 days; then make a brine sufficient to cover
them, by putting salt into clear water, making it
strong enough to bear up asound egg or potato.
Then add % 1b. of saltpetre, and a gallon of
molasses; let them lie in the brine for 6 weeks
——they are then exactly right. Then take them
up and let them drain; then while damp, rub the
flesh side and the end of the leg with finely pulver-
ized black, red, or cayenne pepper; let it be as
fine as dust, and dust every part of the flesh side,
then hang them up and smoke. You may leave
them hanging in the smokehouse or other cool
place where the rats cannot reach them, as they
are perfectly safe from all insects.

HAMS (Smoked), T a keep. —Make sacks of
coarse cotton cloth, large enough to hold one
ham, and fill in with chopped hay all around
about two inches thick. The hay prevents the
grease from coming in contact with the cloth and
keeps all insects from the meat. Hang in the
smokehouse, or other dry, cool place, and they

~will keep a long time.

HAMS (Mutton), To Pickle for Drying. —
First take weak brine and put the hams into it
for 2 days, then pour OH and apply the following,
and let it remain on from 2 to 3 weeks according
to size: For each 100 lbs., take salt 6 lbs.;
saltpetre I 02.; saleratus 2 025.; molasses I pt. ;
water 6 gals., will cover these if closely packed.

HERBS, T a Dry.—They should be gathered
in a dry season, cleansed from discolored and
rotten leaves, screened from earth or dust, placed
on handles covered with blotting paper and
exposed to the sun or the heat of a stove, in a
dry, airy place. The quicker they are dried the
better, as they have less time to ferment or grow
mouldy; hence they should be spread thin and
fre uently turned; when dried they should be
sha en in a large meshed sieve to get rid of the
eggs of any insects. Aromatic herbs ought to
be dried quickly with a moderate heat, that
their odor may not be lost. Crucxferous plants
should not be dried, as in that case they‘ lose
much of their antiscorbutic qualities. Some
persons have proposed to dry herbs in a water ‘
bath, but this occasions them, as It were, to be
half boiled in their own water.

H ONE Y, Preservatwn of. -After the hpney
is passed from the comb, strain it through a Sieve,
so as to get out all the wax; gently b0ll 1t, and
skim of? the whitish foam which rises to the sur.
face, and then the hone will become perfectly
clear. The vessel for bailing should be earthen,

 

PRESERVING AND STORING.

brass, or tin. The honey should be put in jars
when cool, and tightly covered.
V To keep honey in the comb, select combs free
from pollen, pack them edgewise in jars or cans,
and pour in a sufficient quantity of the boiled and
strained honey (as above) to cover the combs.
‘ The jars or cans should be tightly tied over with
thick cloth or leather. These processes have
been in use for twenty years with unvarying suc-

cess.

HORSE-[01191557, To lzazxe in K'eepz'ng. —-
Grate a sufficient quantity during the season,
while it is green, put it in bottles, fill up with
strong vinegar, cork them tight, and set them in
a cool place.

ICE, To ”serum—I. Put the ice into a deep
dish, cover it with a plate, and place the dish on
a illow stuffed with feathers, and cover the top
Wllll another pillow carefully, by this means ex-
cluding the external air.—2. Make two ba 5 of
stout woolen fabric; the outer bag shoul be
made at least two inches wider each way than
the inner one. After placing one bag inside the
other, stuff 'feathers between the two, and sew
the two bags together at the top. Put a block
of ice into a bag of this description, and it will be
preserved from melting for nearly a week; when
under exposure it will melt in less than an hour.

3AM Apricot or Plzzm.—After taking away
the stones from the apricots, and cutting out any
blemishes they may have, put them over a slow
fire, in a clean stew-pan, with half 3. int of wa-
ter; when scalded, rub them through a air sieve;
to every pound of pulp put one pound of sifted
loaf sugar, put it into a preserving-pan over a
brisk fire, and when it boils skim it well, and
throw in the kernels of the apricots and half an
ounce of bitter almonds, blanched; boil it a
quarter of an hour fast, and stirring it all the
time; remove it from the fire, fill it into pots,
and cover them. Green gages may be done in
the same way.

564M, Currant(Rea’, W/zz'z‘e orBlacL).—Strip
the currants from the stalks, and put them into
the preserving-pan, with three uarters of a
pound of sugar to each pound of ruit; add the
sugar after the fruit has boiled a few minutes;
boil together, mashing the fruit with a wooden
spoon, and taking off all the scum; boil all gently
for half an hour, then fill the jars.

354/11, Gooseberry. —— Choose the red hairy
gooseberry when quite ripe; cut off the tops
and tails, weigh them and put them into a pre-
serving-pan with a quarter of a pint of red cur-
rant juice to every three pounds of gooseberries;
let them boil quickly together for nearly an hour,
stirring carefully all the time. Then add the
sugar in the proportion of three quarters of a
pound to each pound of fruit, and boil for forty
minutes. Gooseberry jam takes a lon time to
boil; if not well done it will neither ook nor
keep well.

7/1111, Peat/t. —This confection should be
made of the clingstone peach in reference, it
being more juicy and of a higher tiavor than the
other kind of peach’, the stone of which separates
from the pulp, Treat the peaches exactly in the
manner directed for apricots, using the same
quantity of sugar.

384111, Raspbzny—Take I pound loaf-sugar to
every pound. of fruit; bruise them together in
your preservmg-pan with a silver spoon, and let
them sunmer gently for an hour. When cold,

 

303

put them into glass jars, and lay over them a bit
of paper saturated with brandy—then tie them
up so as carefully to exclude the air.

394M, Sirawéerry. —Put an equal weight of
good ripe scarlet strawberries and broken loaf
sugar into a preserving-pan; let them boil very
slowly till the sugar is all dissolved. The fruit
should be kept as much unbroken as possible,
therefore stir very carefully; remove the scum
as it rises; the addition of half a pint of white,
currant juice to every four pounds of fruit is a
great improvement, strawberry jam being rather
a luscious preserve, Boil from forty minutes to
an hour, until the fruit looks clear.

yELL Y, Appla—Pare, core, and cut thirteen
good apples into small bits: as they are cut
throw them into two quarts of cold water: boil
them in this, with the peel of a lemon, till the
substance is extracted, and nearly half the liquor
wasted: drain them through a hair sieve. And
to a pint of the liquid, add one pound of loaf
sugar, pounded, the juice of one lemon, and the
beaten whites of -one or two eggs: put it into a
saucepan, stir it till it boils, skim till clear, and
then mould it. »

.7191;le Calver’ Feet—Take eight calves’
feet and boil them until the water becomes a good
jelly, then add sugar, I pound; Port wine, 2
pints; white of two eggs and shells. Boil for
five minutes, and clarify.

yELLY, Harts/10m. ——Hartshorn, I pound;
water, I gallon; peel of two lemons. Boil over
a gentle fire until sufficiently thick, strain, and
add loaf-sugar, % ound; whites of ten eggs
(beaten to a froth); juice of six lemons. Whisk
together well.

ELLY, Sago. —Sag0, I pound; water, 5
pints. Wash the sago, then boil it with the wa-
ter until reduced to a transparent jelly; lastly,
flavor it to taste.

XE TCHUP, Camp.—I. Anchovies, 4 028.;
mix with beer, 2 quarts; white wine, I quart;
boil a short time, add peeled shallots, 3 025.;
black pepper, mace, nutmegs, and ginger, of
each, % 02.; macerate for 14 days, and bottle.—
2. Vinegar, 2 ints; walnut ketchup, I pint;
mushroom ketc up, 3 025.; garlic, 4 cloves; Ca-
yenne pods, % 02.; soy, 2 025.; wine, 4. 025.; 3
anchovies; I 02. salt. Macerate together 3
weeks, and bottles—3. Vinegar, I pint; walnut
ketchup, 4025.; soy, 2 025.; 12 chopped ancho-
vies; 2 cloves of garlic, and Cayenne pods, I
drachm ; macerate three weeks, and bottle.

A’E T CH UP, filu:/troom.-—— I. Picked mush-
rooms, 4. lbs.; ' salt, 2 lbs.; sprinkle it on the
mushrooms, and when they liquefy, remove the
juice, add pimento, 6 025.; cloves, I 02.; boil gent<
ly, and strain. The remaining liquor, if any,
may be treated with pepper, mace, and ginger,
for a second quality.—2. Express the mushrooms
in the tincture press, and to each gallon add salt,
8 025.; shallots, 1% 02.; pimento, l 02.; black
pepper and ginger, of each % 02., and cloves, I
drachm.

Mushroom ketchup is apt to lose strength, and
turn bad, in a few weeks after it is first made;
but again boiling with a little fresh spice at the
end of two months, will make it keep good a year
round.

K E T CH UP, Walnut—I. The juice of green
tender walnuts expressed, I gallon; boil and
skim till clear, add 2 lbs. of anchovies ; shallots,
2 lbs.; pepper, mace, and cloves, of each I 02.;

304 -
and a sliced clove of garlic. Simmer 15 min-
utes, add salt to taste, strain, and when cool,
bottle. Let it stand 12 months before using.—
2. Tender walnuts bruised, y, bushel; add, to
each gallon of juice, red wine, 1 quart; ancho-
vies and bay salt, of each 4 025.; allspice, I 02.;
black pepper, 2 025.; cloves and mace, of each,
2 drachms; a little ginger, and sliced horseradish.
Simmer slowly until enough, and when cold,
bottle.-—3. Green walnut shells bruised, 4 parts;
salt, I part; mix, and in 7 days express the liq-
uor. To each gallon, add allspice, 4025.; ginger,
3 025.; long pepper, 2 025.; cloves and mace, of
each I 02. Simmer for 30 minutes, cool, and
bottle.

LAMB, T 0 Keep Fret/z in [fie Summer.—
In a few hours after the lamb is slaughtered, take
all four quarters and cook them done. Each
subsequent day afterwards, as you prepare your
dinner, place the remaining quarters back in the
stove and thoroughly heat them; this seems to
prevent taint from appearing. In this way any

ind of fresh meat can be kept sweet for a week,
in the hottest weather.

LARD, T a Keep/ram Molding: —— It is not
likely to mold if properly tried and ke tin a cool,
dry lace; earthen crocks or pans wel tinned are

00 to put lard in for keeping. Lard made
rom intestinal fat, will not keep so long as leaf
fat. It should be soaked two or three days in
salted water, changed each day.

LIE/”0.7V ACID, Pure Cryxtallz'zea’.— Take
lemon juice, any quantity. Put it into a vessel
of china, glass, or wood, and add finely powder-
ed chalk until the whole of the acid is saturated,
noting the exact weight of the dry chalk employ-
ed; then collect the precipitate and well wash it
with water, and for every ten parts of chalk con-
sumed, add sulphuric acid, 9% parts; diluted
with water, 60 parts. Mix while still warm with
,the precipitate, and stir well together; let them
remain for twelve hours; then decant the clear,
wash the white powder with clear water, and mix
the two liquors ; lastly, strain, evaporate, and
crystallize. To purify it, repeat the operation of
washing the crystals, dissolving and crystallizing
two or three times. Great care must be used in
evaporating the solution, for if too much heat
should be employed, or the process carried too
far, the acid product will be injured.

MARAIALADE, Apricot. — Take oil the
peel of some large ripe apricots, cut them in two,
and remove the stones; weigh the fruit and lay
it on dishes; to every pound of apricots put one
pound of finely powdered loaf sugar, strew it
over the fruit, and let it lie for one night; next
day put the fruit and sugar into a preserving an
with a teaspoonful of ratafia to every poun of
sugar ; let the whole boil very gently, and as
each piece of apricot appears clear take it out and
lay it in a jar; skim off any scum that may arise
on the syrup, and when all the fruit is done pour
the syrup over it in the jars.

MAR/VIALADE, fi’m’ Currant. —Squeeze
some ripe red currants through a coarse muslin;
to every pint ofjuice put a pound of loaf sugar;
boil it very well; when nearly boiled to a jelly,
have some bunches of large white currants nice-
;ly picked, throw them in, and boil five minutes;
it should turn out stiff and transparent.

MA [(111.4 LA DE , Goareét’rry. —— Take the
gooseberries when fully grown, but not ripe, boil
them in water five minutes, then drain them

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS. '

through a colander, bruise the fruit, add an
equal quantity of loaf sugar, and to every three
pounds of sugar put the rind of a lemon grated
and half the juice ; it should be boiled until stiff.
MARIWALADE, Mixed.— Pare, core, and
quarter one peck of pears, the same quantity of
orange quinces, simmer in sufficient water to
keep them from burning until tender, flavoring
them with one guarter of a pound of sliced green
ginger, the rin of one orange and one lemon,
one ounce of blanched and shredded sweet alr
monds, a dozen bitter almonds or peach pits.
Pare, core and quarter two pecks of all pippins,
and add them when the quinces are tender. When
the apples are tender add for each pound of the
pulp one half pound of good brown sugar, sim-
mer a few minutes altogether and seal hot.
MAIr‘MALA DE, 0rrmge.—Choose the larg-
est Seville oranges, as they usually contain the
greatest quantity of juice, and choose them with
clear skins, as the skins form the largest part of
the marmalade. Weigh the oranges, and wci h
also an equal quantity of loaf sugar. Skint e
oranges, dividing the skins into quarters, and
put them into a preserving pan ; cover them well
with water, and set them on the fire to boil: in
the meantime prepare your oranges ; divide them
into gores, then scrape with a teas oon all the
pulp from the white skin; or, insteadiot’ skinning
the oranges, cut a hole in the orange and scoop
out the pulp; remove carefully all the pips, of
which there are innumerable small ones in the
Seville orange, which will escape observation
unless they are very minutely examined. Have
a large basin near you with some cold water in
it to throw the pips and skins into—a pint is suf-
ficient for a dozen oranges. A great deal of glu-
tinous matter adheres to them, which, when
strained through a sieve, should be boiled with
the other parts. When the skins have boiled till
they are sufficiently tender to admit of a fork

'being stuck into them, strain them; some of

which may be boiled with the other parts ; scrape
clean all the pith, or inside, from them; lay them
in folds, and cut them into thin slices ofahout an
inch long. Clarify your sugar; then throw your
skins and pulp into it, stir it well, and let it boil
about half an hour. If the sugar is broken into
small pieces, and boiled with the fruit, it will
answer the purpose of clarifying, but it must be
well skimmed when it boils.

MAR/VIALADE, Quince. — Half fill a pre-
serving pan with water, slice your quinces into
it. and stew, stirring occasionally till they are a
pulp ; strain it through a hair sieve, and to
every pint of pulp add three quarters of a pound of
loaf sugar pounded; boil together till it jellies;

ut it into jars while hot. If well made it will
eep many years in a dry place.

IVA/MIA LAD/3, Quz’me.——Take quinces that
are quite ripe, pare and cut them in quarters,
take out the cores, put them into a stew pan with
nearly enough spring water to cover them, keep
them closely covered, and let them stew gently
till they are quite soft and red, then mash and
rub them through a hair sieve. Put themm a
pan over a gentle fire, with as much thick clarified
sugar as the weight of the quinces; botl them an
hour and stir the whole time with a wooden
spoon to prevent its sticking; pu't it into pots,
and when cold tie them down.

MARMALADE, Transparent—Cut very pale
Seville oranges into quarters; take out the pulp,

PRESERVING AND STORING.

put it into a basin, and pick out the skins and
seeds. Put the peels into a little salt and water,
and let them stand all night, then boil them in a

quantity of spring water until they are
tender; cut them in very thin slices, and put
them into the pulp. To every pound of marmal-
ade put one pound and a half of double refined
beaten sugar ; boil them together gently for
twenty minutes ; if they are not transparent, boil
them a few minutes longer. Stir it gently all
the time, and take care not to break the slices.
When it is cold, put it into jelly and sweetmeat
glasses; tie down tight.

MEAT, To Cure.—— To one gallon of water
add one and ahalf pounds of salt, half apound of
sugar, half an ounce of saltpetre, half an ounce
of potash. In this ratio the pickle to be increas-
ed to any quantity desired. Let these be boiled
together until all the dirt from the sugar rises to
the top and is skimmed off. Then throw it into
a. tub to cool, and when cold pour it over your
beef or pork, to remain the usual time, say four
or five weeks. The meat must be well covered
with pickle, and should not be put down for at
least two days after killing, during which time
it should be slightly sprinkled with powdered
saltpetre, which removes all the surface blood,
etc., leaving the meat fresh and clean. Some
omit boiling the pickle, and find it to answer
well; though the operation of boiling purifies
the pickle by throwing off the dirt always to be
found in salt and sugar. If this recipe is prop-
erly tried it will never be abandoned. There is
none that surpasses it, if so good.

.MEA T (Frozen), T 0 keep—After the meat is
frozen, tie in papers and pack in afiour barrel
with clean straw, pushing the straw down tightly
with a thin lath. Then put the barrel in a box,
five or six inches larger than the barrel every
way, and fill the space with dry sawdust.

MEA T(Fres/z), Prererm'ng.——I. Place in large
earthenware pans, putting clean heavy stones on
it, and covering it with skim milk; the milk will
become sour, of course, but may afterward serve
as food for pigs, and the meat will be found to
have kept its natural primitive freshness, even
after eight or ten days. This is a German me-
thod, and may answer where the ice house or
spring house is wanting, and where the skim
milk is p1enty.—-2. At Monte Video, meat is now
preserved in large quantities for export, by a
process which is thus described :—A pickle is
made containing eighty-five per cent. of water,
with hydrochloric acid, glycerine, and bisulphite
of soda, and in this the meat, cut into lumps of
from five to fifty pounds weight, is soaked for
some days. When taken out, it is dusted over
with dry bisulphite of soda, and is closely packed
in airtight boxes, in which it will keep sweet for
years, and can be rendered fit for use at any
time by soaking in a bath of cold water in which
[a small quantity of vinegar is mixed—3. Accord-
ing to a recipe recently patented in England,
meat of any kind may be preserved in any tem-
perature after it has been soaked for ten minutes
in a solution made of the following ingredients,
well mixed: One pint of common salt dissolved
in four gallons of clear cold water and half a
gallon of the bisulphite of calcium solution. It
is said that experiments show that meats so
prepared will keep for twelve days in a tem~
perature of from 80 to 110 degrees, and preserve
their odor and flavor unimpaired. By repeating

 

303

the process meats may be indefinitely preserved,
and if it is desired to kee them an unusually
long time, a little solution 0 gelatine or white of
an egg may be added to the wash.

MEA T, Pkwy! Paper to Prererw. -— This
article would be useful for packing meat and
other substances liable to decay. It can be pre-

ared by fusing five parts stearic acid at a gentle

eat, mixing well with two parts carbolic acid
and five parts melted paraffine, and stirring until
the whole has become solid, and applying in the
same manner as wax paper is made.

MELON flIAzVGOES.—The late, small, and
smooth muskmelons are used for this pickle.
Cut out a plug at the stem end, or, as some
prefer it, from the side; scrape out the contents,
replace the plug and secure it with a wooden pin,
and put the melons thus prepared into a strong
brine. When they have been in the brine for
twenty-four hours or more, they are ready for
staffing. The stuffing is made of any pickle
material at hand; shredded cabbage, broken
cauliflower, small onions and cucumbers, green
beans, peppers, mustard seed, nasturtiums,
scraped horseradish, and the like. Cabbage and.
the other stuffing, except the aromatics, are bet-
ter for being scalded and cooled. Stuff the
melons according to fancy, and then sew each
plug in its place by means of a needle and coarse
thread. Place the stuffed melons in a jar, add
cloves, pepper, and other desired spice, and pour
boiling vinegar over them. Repeat the scalding
of the vinegar for three days in succession.

MILK To Prtscm'e.—- 1. Milk becomes sour
by the formation of lactic acid, which is rapidly
developed at a temperature of 70° to 90°. The
best way to preserve milk sweet for domestic
purposes, is to add to it every day a few grains
of carbonate of soda per pint, to keep the milk
alkaline.-——2. Put the milk into bottles, then
place them in a sauce mm with cold water, and
gradually raise it to the boiling point; take it
from the fire, and instantly cork the bottles, then
raise the milk once more to the boiling point for
half a minute. Finally let the bottles cool in the
water in which they were boiled. Milk thus
treated will remain perfectly good for six months.
Emigrants, especially those having children, will
find the above hint add much to their comfort
while on their voyage.— 3. Add to every thirty
ounces of unskimmed milk, previously poured in
a well-annealed glass bottle, about six grains of
bicarbonate of soda. Place the bottle containing;
the milk, and well corked, for about four hours
in a water.bath heated up to 90° C. (194° F. )..
On being taken out the bottle is varnished over
with tar; and in that state the milk will keep:
sound and sweet for several weeks.

MILK, Condensed. —- There is no patent for-
manufacturing condensed milk, and the whole»
process amounts to a careful evaporation, ad-
dition of sugar and sealing up of the article. The:
evaporation should be conducted in a vacuum,
to prevent the milk from becoming brown and
acquirin a bitter taste. It is best to stir it
constant y, or the skin of coagulated casein at
the top will prevent quick evaporation. When
sufiiciently thick or condensed it is mixed with
one-quarter of its weight of granulated sugar,
stirred well, filled in tins, and soldered up.

fl/USHROOMS, To Pickle. —Take a quart
of small field button mushrooms, cut the stems
close, and rub 1"off the skin with a bit of flannel;

20 '

306

and a. little salt; throw them as they are done
into salt and spring water. Drain and dry them
in a cloth. Put a quart of strong vinegar into
an enameled pan, with an ounce of bruised
ginger, half an ounce of whole white pepper,
half an Ounce of mustard seed. Tie up in a bit
of muslin a small nutmeg sliced, and half a salt-
spoonful of cayenne; put this along with a table-
spoonful of salt into the vinegar, and let it and
the spices come to a boil. When boiling briskly
throw in the mushrooms, and let them boil ten
minutes. Take out the muslin bag, and put the
other spices into the pickle bottles, along with
the mushrooms and vinegar. \Vhen quite cold,
cork the bottles, and cover them with a bladder.

flIUSIIROOfl/S, To Preserve. — The small
open mushrooms suit best. Trim and rub them
clean, and put into a stew-pan a quart of the
mushrooms, three ounces of butter, two tea-
spoonfuls of salt, and half a teaspoonful of Ca—
yenne pepper and mace mixed; stew until the
mushrooms are tender; take them carefully out
and drain them on a sloping dish. When cold,
press into small pots, and pour clarified butter
over them. Put writing paper over the butter,
and on that pour melted suet, which willexclude
the air and preserve them for many weeks, if
kept in a dry, cool place.

01V] OA’S, To Keep. —Gather in fall and re-
move the tops; then spread upon a barn floor or
in any open shed, and allow them to remain
there until thoroughly dry. Put into barrels or
small bins or boxes, and place in a cool place,
and at the approach of cold weather cover with
straw or chaff, if there is danger of very severe
freezing.

Onions are often injured in winter by keeping
' them in too warm a place. They will seldom be
injured by frost if kept in the dark, and in tight
barrels or boxes, where not subjected to fre uent
changes of temperature. Itis the alternate reez-
ings and thawings that destroy them, and if plac-
ed in a position where they will remain frozen all
winter, and then thawed out slowly and in a
dark place, no considerable injury would result
from this apparently harsh treatment. Onions
should always be stored in the coolest part of the
cellar, or put in chaff and set in the ham or some
out-house.

ONIONS, T a Pickle. — Have the onions
gathered when quite dry and ripe, and with the
fingers take off the thin outside skin, then with
a knife remove one more skin, when the onion
will look quite clear. Have ready some very
dry bottles or jars, and as fast as the onions are
peeled put them in. Pour over sufficient cold
vinegar to cover them, add two teaspoonfuls of
allspice and two teaspoonfuls of black pepper,
taking care that each jar has its share of the lat-
ter ingredients. Tie down with bladder, and put
them in a dry place, and in a fortnight they will
be fit for use. This is a most simple receipt,
and ver delicious, the onions being nice and
crisp. hey should be eaten within six or eight
months after being done, as the onions are liable
to become soft.

ORANGE-PEEL, Candied.—Soak the peels
in water, which must be changed, until they lose
their bitterness, then put them into syrup until
they become soft and transparent; lastly, take
them out and place them to dry.

0 Y5 TER CA TS UP.-—-Take fine fresh oysters,
rinse them in their own liquor, then pound them

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERKDA Y WANTS.

in a. marble mortar, and to a pint of oysters put
a pint of cherry wine; boil them up, add an
ounce of salt, 2 drachms of cayenne pepper, let
it borl up once again, rub it through a sieve;
when cold, put it in bottles and cork and seal

them.

OYSTERS, Pickled. —Take one hundred
freshly opened oysters and simmer them slowly
in their own liquor; when the beards begin to
curl, take them out one by one and put them in
a pan containing ice water, (cooling rapidly ren-
ders them firm). Strain the liquor and return
to the kettle, then add one ounce of whole all-
spice, the same of pepper, a few blades of mace,
and half a teaspoonful of salt. Simmer five min-
utes and add one pint of vinegar (not too strong).
Then boil about two minutes longer. When the
liquor becomes cold, pour it over the oysters.
Ready for use in twelve hours.

PA [851.5 Y, To Dry.—Cut a large basketful
of the best looking curled parsley, pick out all
faded or dirty leaves, and dry the remainder care.-
fully before a clear fire. At first the leaves will
become quite limp, and they must be turned be-
fore the fire to expose all parts equally to the
heat, until the leaves are dry and brittle, without
losing their green color, for it they are allowed.
to get brown they are spoiled. When dry, rub
them to powder between the hands ; sift the pow.
der through a coarse sieve, and bottle it for use;
it will retain both the color and flavor of green

arsl 3y. A large basket of fresh leaves will
army yield a pint of powder. Never dry it in
the sun, or it will lose much of its flavor.

PARSNIPS, Preserving—The almost uni-
versal practice among farmers is to allow their

arsnips to remain in the ground through winter,
just where they were grown. We believe the
quality of this root is improved by being frozen,
or at least kept cool, but it is not necessary to
leave them in the open garden during winter,
where, if the ground remain frozen, they cannot
be got at until it thaws in spring, and then used
in a very few weeks or not at all. If the roots
are dug up late in the fall, leaving all the to s
on, then carefully heeled in thickly together in
rows, after which cover with a little coarse litter,
they can be reached whenever wanted during
winter.

PEA CIIES, To Can. -— Pare and halve your
peaches. Pack them as closely as possible in the
can without any sugar. When the can is full,
pour in sufficient pure cold water to fill all the
interstices between the peaches, and reach the
brim of the can. Let stand long enough for
the water to soak into all the crevices—say six
hours— then our in water to replace what has
sunk away. eal up the can, and all is done.
Canned in this way, peaches retain all their fresh-
ness and flavor.

There will not be enough water in them to
render them insipid. If preferred, a cold syrup
could be used instead of pure water, but the
peaches taste most natural without any sweet.

PEA CHES, To Dljl. — Never pare peaches
to dry. Let them get mellow enough to be m

ood eating condition, put them in boiling water
or a moment or two, and the skins will come off
like a charm. Let them be in the water lopg
enough, but no longer. The gain is at least 51x-
fold—saving of time in removing the skin, great
saving of the peach, the part of the peach saved
is the best part, less time to stone the peaches,

PRESERVING AND STORING.

less time to dry them, and better when dried.
A whole bushel can be done in a boiler at once,
and then the water turned off.

PEACHES, T a Preserve. -—Take moderate-
sized peaches before they are quite ripe, cut a
small slit in the end and take out the stone, set
them to boil in cold water, and let them remain
till about half done, then throw them into an
earthen an containing cold water. The next
day put t em into apreserving-pan, with as much
of the syrup (prepared as above) as w1ll cover
them, let them boil for five minutes, then lay
them aside till next day in an earthen-ware pan;
boil them three days successively in the same
syrup, which at the end of that time ought to be
rather thicker than honey; if it does not appear
to be so, boil it until it is thick enough.

PEAS (Green), To Preserve. — When full
grown, but not old, pick and shell the peas.
Lay them on dishes or tins in a cool oven, or be-
fore a bright fire; do not heap the peas on the
dishes, but merely cover them with peas, stir
them frequently, and let them dry very gradually.
When hard, let them cool, then pack them
in stone jars, cover close, and keep them in a
very dry place. When required for use, soak
them for some hours in cold water, till they look
plump before boiling; they are excellent for soup.

PI C CA LILLI (Indian fllet/zod).~—~This con-
sists of all kinds of pickles mixed and put into
one large jar—sliced cucumbers, button onions,
cauliflowers, broken in pieces. Salt them, or

ut them in a large hair sieve in the sun to dry
or three days, then scald them in vinegar a few
minutes; when cold put them together. Cut a
large white cabbage in quarters, with the outside
leaves taken off and cut fine; salt it, and put it
in the sun to dry three or four days ; then scald
it in vinegar, the same as cauliflower; carrots,
three arts, boiled in vinegar and a little bay salt.
Frenc beans, radish pods, and nasturtiums,
all go through the same process as capsicums,
etc. To I gallon of vinegar put 4 ounces of
ginger bruised, 2 ounces of whole white pepper,
2 ounces of allspice, % ounce chillies bruised, 4
ounces of turmeric, I pound of the best mustard,
% pound of shallots, I ounce of garlic, and %
pound of bay salt. The vinegar, spice, and
other ingredients, except the mustard, must boil
half an hour; then strain it into a pan, put the
mustard into a large basin, with a little vinegar;
mix it quite fine and free from lumps, then add
more. When well mixed put it into the vinegar
just strained off, and when quite cold put the
pickles into a large pan, and the liquor over them;
stir them repeatedly, so as to mix them all.
Finally, put them into a jar, and tie them over
first with a bladder, and afterwards with leather.
The capsicums want no preparation.

P1 CK LES, [{z'nts on.—Some time since it
appeared to be the fashion that all pickles should
have a bright green Color, almost brighter than
the pickled vegetable itself possessed when quite
fresh, or even when growing under the most fa-
vorable circumstances. All vegetables, when
subjected to the influence of heat, lose a consid-
erable portion of their natural coloring matter,
or it undergoes some chemical change, which
renders the color faded and sometimes withered
in appearance; if therefore pickles must be bright
green, they must be colored, and the most com-
mon way in which that was done was by letting
them he in a topper vessel. The vinegar with

 

3°?

which they were covered absorbed some portion
of the copper, and gave a green tinge (which,
however, was highly poisonous) to the pickle.
So many accidents occurred from the use of these
green pickles that the fashion declined, and
makers who advertise pickles have ceased to
mention their green color as one of their recom-
mendations.

The vegetables intended for pickling are in
most cases put either into salt or strong brine for
a few days, to extract some of the fluid which all
vegetables contain, and which would so much
weaken the vinegar that it would have to be re-
newed in a very short time. Vinegar for pickles
must be the best French white wine vinegar, and
the spices, (which should be the best and fresh-
est that can be procured) may be tied up in a
muslin bag and boiled in the vinegar until all the
flavor has been extracted by it. An enameled‘
pan is the best and safest thing to boil any strong
acid in.

PICKLES 4/ Sweet Citran.~—-Cut the citron
into pieces of desirable shape and size, then place
them in a jar (stone is best), cover them with a
weak brine and let them stand for twenty-four
hours, then drain or wipe them dry. Take
enough good vinegar to nearly or guite cover
them. To every gallon of vinegar 3. d one and
one fourth pounds of nice brown or white sugar,
one ounce each of whole cloves, allspice, stick
cinnamon and mace. Boil the vinegar, sugar
and spices together a few minutes and then pour
over the citron. Let the whole stand two or
three days, then repeat the scalding. After an-
other day or two boil the whole together until
the citron is done enough to pass a straw
through. Keep in a cool, dry place.

[’1 CK LE S, Cucumber.—Cucumbers should
be cut from the vines, a part of the stern left on; I
observe care not to mar them; if bruised they
will decay. Select such as are of suitable size
and of good quality, and cover them with boiling
water, let them remain until the water is cool;
if for vinegar pickles, add a small quantity of salt
before scalding. When cold, drain thoroughly,
and cover with boiling vinegar with an addition
of spice if preferred. If for brine, put a layer of
dry salt in the bottom of a barrel, and after thor-
oughly draining the pickles, put them in with
dry salt anion st them. Add no water. Put a
weight upon t em, they will furnish moisture for
brine, and will keep better, besides being more
crisp and brittle for having had the gum soaked
from them by the boiling water.

PICKLES, To Detect Copper in.—Put a few
leaves of the tea, or some of the pickle cut small,
into a phial with two or three drachms of liquid
ammonia, diluted with one half the quantity of
water. Shake the phial, when, if the most min-
ute portion of copper be present, the liquid will
assume a fine blue color. .

PICKLE, French—Take one peek of green
tomatoes cut in thin slices. Take a layer of to-
matoes and sprinkle salt upon it, and so on al-
ternately until the whole peck is disposed of.
Let them remain in this condition over night,
and in the morning squeeze them out dry. Then
take two heads of slough cabbage cut up fine,
one dozen large green peppers cut fine, one-
fourth of a peek of chopped onions; then add
one half of a pound of mustard, one half of a
pound of white mustard, one pound of sugar,
two ounces of allspice e '1 "loves whole, two

308

ounces of celery seed; mix all together and cover
with vinegar and boil two hours.

PIC/(LE, Indium—Pull a white cauliflower
into branches, peel the stalk and slice it; slice a
small white cabbage, a cucumber, a dozen onions,
and six tomatoes; add six cloves of garlic, one
dozen shallots, a dozen capsicums, half a pint of
French beans, some radish pods, and a large
handful of scraped horseradish. Lay all these
ve ,jetables in a pan, and pour over them strong
boiling brine. Let them lie half an hour, then
drain off the brine, and dry them in the sun, or
in a cool oven. Boil one gallon of vinegar with
four ounces of pounded black pepper, four ounces
of pounded white pepper, two ouncesof pounded
chillies, two ounces of pounded ginger, one ounce
of pounded cloves, four ounces of mustard flour,
two ounces of turmeric, and one ounce of mus-
tard seed. Lay the vegetables in a stone jar,
pour the vinegar and spices while boiling hot
over them, and when cold, cover the jar with a
bladder. In a month it will be fit for use. .

P1 CA’LES, [Miami—Take half a pint of half-
grown French beans, as nearly of the same size
as possible, a dozen gherkins, each from two to
three inches long, a small green cucumber cut
into slices about half an inch thick; put these
into a pan of brine, strong enough to float an
egg. Let them lie for three days, stirring them
each day, then place them in an enameled pre-
serving pan, with vine leaves under and over
them, pour in the brine in which they have been
steeped, and cover them closely to prevent the
Steam escaping; set them over a slow fire, but
do not allow them to boil; when they become a
green color, drain them through a sieve and let
them remain till the other ingredients are ready.
Pull a small white cauliflower into branches, and
lay it. in strong brine, together with half a pint
of onions, the size of marbles, peeled, a dozen
fresh‘chillies (scarlet), or a few scarlet capsicums ;
let them remain three or four days, then arrange
them in pickle bottles with the green pickle al-
ready done interspersed in a tasteful manner
through them. Boil as much good vinegar as
will be sufficient to fill up the bottles, with some
whole allspice, white pepper, bruised ginger,
mace, mustard seed, and slices of horseradish.
When the vinegar tastes very strong of these
spices, strain it carefully (unless they have been
tied in a bag as already recommended). Let the
vinegar stand till cold, then fill the bottles and
cork securely.

PLANT SPECIMENS, Prerewaz‘im (3/2-
The collector of plants requires but little ap-
paratus; a few quires or reams of unsized paper,
of folio size, will furnish all that will be needed.
The specimens as gathered may be placed in a
tin box, or, still better, in a portfolio of paper,
until reaching home. About forty or fifty sheets
of the paper should be put into the portfolio on
setting out on an excursion. Put the specimens of
each species in a separate sheet as fast as gather-
ed from the plant, taking a fresh sheet for each
additional species. On returning to camp, place
these sheets (without changing or disturbing the
plants) between the absorbent drying papers in
the press, and draw the straps tight enough to
produce the requisite pressure. The next day
the driers may be changed, and those previously
used laid in the sun to dry; this to be continued
until the plants are perfectly dry. If paper and
opportunities of transportation be limited, several

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

specimens from the same locality may be corn-
bined in the same sheet after they are dry.

Place in each sheet a slip of paper having a
number or name of locality written on it cor.
responding with a list kept in a memorandum
book. Record the day of the month, locality
size, and character of the plant, color of flower,
fruit, etc.

If the stem is too long, double it or cut it into
lengths. Collect, if possible, half a dozen speci.
mens of each kind. In the small specimens, col-
lect the entire plant so as to show the root.

In many instances, old news pers will be
found to answer a good purpose bah in dryin
and in keeping plants, although the unprinted
paper is best—the more porous and absorbent
the better.

When not traveling, pressure may be most
conveniently applied to plants by placing them
between two boards, with a weight of about 50
pounds laid on the top.

While on a march, the following directions for
collecting plants, drawn up by Major Rich, are
recommended :

Have thick cartridge or envelope paper, folded
in quarto form, and kept close and even by bind-
ing with strong cord; newspapers will answer,
but are liable to chafe and war out; a few are
very convenient to mix in with the hard papers
as dryers. This herbarium may be rolled up in
the blanket while traveling, and placed on apack
animal. The specimens collected along the road
may be kept in the crown of the hat when with-
out a collecting-box, and placed in paper at noon
or at night. Great care should be taken to keep
the papers dry and free from mold. When
there is no time at noon to dry the papers in the
sun, they should be dried by night by the fire,
when, also, the dried specimens are placed at the
bottom of the bundle, making room on top for the
next day’s collection. A tin collecting-box is very
convenient; plants may be preserved for two or
three days in one if kept damp and cool. It is
also convenient in collecting land-shells, which
is generally considered part of a botanist’s duty.
A collector should also always be provided with
plenty of ready-made seed-papers, not only for
preserving seeds, but mosses and minute plants.
Many seeds and fruits cannot be put in the herb-
arium, particulary if of a succulent nature, caus-
ing moldiness, and others form irregularities and
inequalities in the papers, thus breaking speci-
mens and causing small ones and seeds to drop
out. Fruits of this kind should be numbered to
correspond with the specimen, and kept in the
saddle-bags or some such place. It is necessary,
in order to make good specimens, to avoid heavy
pressure and keep the papers well dried, other-
wise they get moldy, turn black, or decay.

The seeds and fruits of plants should be pr0<
cured whenever practicable, and slowly dried.
These often serve to reproduce a speaes other-
wise not transportable or capable of preservation.

On board ship, it is all-important to keep the
collections from getting wet with salt water. The
papers can generally be dried at the galley. The
whole herbarium should be exposed to the sun
as often as possible, and frequently examined,
and the mold brushed off with afmther or came-l-
hair ncil.

In collecting algae, coralines, or the branched,
horny, or calcareous corals, care should be taken
to bring away the entire specimen With Its base

PRESERVING AND STORING.

or root. The coarser kinds may be dried in the
air (but not exposed to too powerful a sun),
turning them from time to time. These should
not be washed in fresh water, if to be sent any
distance. The more delicate species should be
brought home in salt water, and washed carefully
in fresh, then transferred to a shallow basin of
clean fresh water, and floated out. Apiece of
white paper of proper size is then slipped under-
neath, and raised gently out of the water with
the specimen on its upper surface. After finally
adjusting the branches with a sharp point or
brush, the different sheets of specimens are to
be arranged between blotters of bibulous paper
and cotton cloth, and subjected to gentle pres-
sure. These blotters must be frequently changed
till the specimens are dry.

PLANTS, T o Preserve wit/z t/m’r Nalural
Appearance. — Fine white quartz sand is heated
to about 200° F. in an iron pot, and by stirring,
some stearic acid and spermaceti, each in the
proportion of half a drachm for every five pounds
of sand, incorporated with it. Taken from the
fire the whole is thoroughly mixed and used as
follows: A cigar box with a draw lid, with the
bottom knocked out, is inverted, and a coarse
piece of wire gauze placed inside over the lid,
which now forms the bottom. The bottom and
this sieve are then covered by a layer of the pre—
pared sand; the plants properly trimmed are
placed on this sand, and completely imbedded in
more of it so as to keep them properly in posi-
tion. The box, covered with paper, is then
placed in a room in which a temperature of [00°
to 110° F. is kept up, in which the plants will
soon be dried. When this point is reached, the
lid of the box is drawn, which causes all the sand
to fall out, leaving the dried plants on the gauze.

PL UM 3, To [Bertram—Cut your plums in half
(they must not be quite ripe), and take out the
stones. Weigh the plums, and allow a pound of
loaf-sugar to a pound of fruit. Crack the stones,
take out the kernels, and break them in pieces.
Boil the plums and kernels very slowly for about
fifteen minutes, in as little water as possible.

Then spread them on a large dish to cool, and

strain the liquor. Next day make your syrup.
Melt the sugar in as little water as will sufliciently
dissolve it (about a gill of water to a pound of
sugar), and boil it a few minutes, skimming it
till quite clear. Then put in your plums with
the liquor, and boil them fifteen minutes. Put
them in jars, pour the juice over them warm,
and tie them up when cold, with brandy paper.
Plums for common use are very good done in
treacle. Put your plums into an earthen vessel
that holds a gallon, having first slit each plum
with a knife. To three quarts of plums put a
pint of treacle. Cover them, and set them on
hot coals in the chimney corner. Let them stew
for twelve hours or more, occasionally stirring
them and renewing the coals. The next day put
them up in jars. Done in this manner, they will
keep till the next Spring. Syrups may be im-
proved in clearness by adding to the dissolved
sugar and water some white of egg very well
beaten, allowing the white of one egg to two
pounds of sugar. Boil it very hard (adding the
egg shell), and skim it well, that it may be quite
clear before you put in your fruit.

. FLU/ll CHEESE—Put a quantity of plums
into a. jar, and stand the jar in a saucepan of
water on the fire; when quite soft pulp them

 

309

through a sieve, arid to every pound of pulp, add
one pound of loaf sugar, and one ounce of sweet
almonds, blanched and pounded, with four bitter
almonds; boil all together till the fruit will form
a stiff jelly. If the plums are very juicy, some
of the juice may be taken off the fruit.

POTATOES, Stoflng.—Potatoes should not
be exposed to the sun and light any more than
is necessary to dry them after digging them from
the hill. Every ten minutes 0 such exposure,
especially in the sun, injures their edible quali- '
ties. The flesh is thus rendered soft, yellowish
or greenish, and injured in flavor. Dig them
when dry, and put them in a dark cellar im-
mediately and keep them there till wanted for
use, and there would not be so much fault found
about bad quality. This is also a hint to those
grocers and marketmen who keep their potatoes
in barrels in the sun—that is, if they wish to
furnish their customers with a good article.

POT A T 0E5, To keep from sprouting—To
keep potatoes intended for the use of the table
from sprouting until new potatoes grow, take
boiling water, pour into a tub, turn in as many
potatoes as the water will entirely cover, then
pour off all the water, handle the potatoes care:
fully, laying up in a dry place on boards, only
one layer deep, and see if you do not have good
potatoes the year round, without hard strings
and watery ends caused by growing.

POT A T OES (Sweet), Storing. — Farmers
who store sweet potatoes for winter use should
be very careful not to keep them too moist, too
warm or too cold. A very good way is to get a
box large enough for the quantity you have, and
then select sand and dry it thoroughly before us-
ing; when dry, cover the bottom of your box
with the sand to the de th of three inches, and
then place one layer 0 sweet potatoes, but not
so close as to lie against each other; then one
layer of sand of the same depth, and so on until
your box is full; then place it in a room where
the temperature will not fall below 40°, nor rise
above 60°. In this way they may be kept until
new ones are to be had.

PUMPKINS, Drying—Take the ripe pump-
kins, pare, cut into small pieces, stew soft, mash
and strain through a colander, as if for making
pies. Spread this pulp on plates in layers not
quite an inch thick ; dry it down in the stove oven,
kept at so low a temperature as not to scorch it.
In about a day it will become dry and crisp. The
sheets thus made can be stowed away in a dry
place, and they are always ready for use for pies
or sauce. Soak the pieces over night in a little
milk, and they will return to a nice pulp, as de-
licious as the fresh pumpkin. The quick drying
after cooking prevents any portion from slightly
souring as is always the case when the uncooked
pieces are dried; the flavor is much better pre-l
served, and the after cooking is saved. -

QUINCES, To Prereme.—I. Wipe the fruit‘
and remove all defects, then pare, quarter and
core. Boil the parings and cores in water an
hour or more and strain through a colander.
In this liquid, which is very glutinous, boil the
fruit until easily pierced with a fork. The fruit
should be weighed before cooking. To each
pound of fruit add half a pound of white coffee
sugar and boil only a few moments, when they
are ready for canning. If more juice is desired,
add water to the last cooking. A mold may form
on the top, but it does not hurt them in the least,

3m

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

and is easily removed when they are used. This
process requires time.-—2. Pare and core the
quinces and cut them in halves or uarters, ac-
cording to size. To four pounds 0 quinces al-
low four pounds of best white crushed sugar, and
a pint of cold water. Put the quinces into a pre-
serving kettle and pour the water over them,
and spread half the sugar over the top; let them
heat slowly, and boil until you can run a fork
easily through them; keep closely covered, and
do not stir them; when soft take each iece out
separately and place on a platter to cool). Then
strain the syrup, put in the rest of the sugar and
boil it, closely covered without stirring, half an
hour or more, when it is a red color and almost
a jelly ; do not remove the cover until it is taken
from the fire. Let the fruit and syrup remain
separate until the next day, then put a layer of
each alternately into your jars and seal them.
In this way they will not grow hard and tough.

RHUBARB, To Dry. —The best method of
drying rhubarb is to strip it of its epidermis.
This is a long operation, but both time and ex-
pense are spared in the end by the promptness
and regularity of the drying. Many cultivators
of rhubarb on a large scale have repeated the ex-
periment and have met with the most decisive
results.

RHUBARB PRESER VE.—Peel and cut into
pieces about two inches long, six pounds of
rhubarb. Put it into a stone jar, with eight
pounds of preserving sugar, the rind of a lemon
cut thin, and shred into little bits, a quarter of a
pound of ginger, and a few cloves; set the jar
in a pan of boiling water, or stand it in the oven.
When the rhubarb is quite tender, strain off the
juice; put the juice into a preserving pan, and
boil quickly for half an hour; pour it over the
rhubarb, and put the whole into pots or shapes;
if well made it will be clear, and still" enough to
turn out, and covered in pots, it will keep as
well as any other preserves.

ROOT S, T a Dry.—-They should be rubbed in
water to get rid of the dirt and also some of the
mucous substance that would otherwise render
tliem moldy; the larger are then to be cut, split,
or peeled, but in most aromatic roots, the odor
residing in the bark, they must not be peeled;
they are then to be spread on sieves or hurdles
and dried in a heat of about 1209 Fahr. either
on the top of an oven, in a stove, or a steam
closet, taking care to shake them occasionally to
change the surface exposed to the air. Thick
and juicy roots, as rhubarb, briony, peony, wa-
ter-lily, etc., are cut in slices, strung upon a
thread and hung in a heat of about 90° to 100°
Fahr. Squills are scaled, threaded and dried
round the tube of a German stove, or in a hot
closet. Rhubarb should be washed to separate
that mucous principle which would otherwise
render it black and soft when powdered. Potap
toes are cut in slices and dried.

ROOTS, To Prexeme.-—These are preserved
‘in difierent ways, according to the object in view.
Tuberous roots, as those of the dahlia, paeonia,
tuberose, etc., intended to be planted in the suc-
ceeding spring, are preserved through the winter
in dry earth, in a temperature rather under than
above what is natural to them. So may the
bulbous roots of commerce, as hyacinths, tulips,
onions, etc., but for convenience, these are kept
either loose, in cool dr shelves or lofts, or the
finer sorts in papers, ‘ the season of planting.

 

Roots of all kinds may be preserved in an ice-
house till the return of the natural crop.

After stuffing the vacuities with straw, and
covering the surface of the ice with the same
material, place on it ase boxes, casks, baskets,
etc., and fill them with turnips, carrots, beet-
roots, and in particular potatoes. By the cold of
the place vegetation is so much suspended that
all these articles may be thus kept fresh and un-
injured till they give place to another crop in its
natural season.

ROSEB UDS, T a Presewe.——A method em-
ployed in Germany to keep rosebuds fresh into
the winter, consists in first covering the end or
the recently cut stem with wax, and then placing
each one in a closed paper cap or cone, so that
the leaves do not touch the paper. The cap is
then coated with glue, to exclude air, dust, and
moisture, and when dry it is stood up in a cool
place. When wanted for use, the bud is taken out
of the cap and placed in water, after cutting off
the end, when the rose will bloom in a few hours.

SA UERKRA UT, To Mata—In the first
place, let your “stand,” holding from half a I
barrel to a barrel, be thoroughly scalded out;
the cutter, the tub and the Stamper also well
scalded. Take off all the outer leaves of the
cabbages, halve them, remove the heart and pro-
ceed with the cutting. Lay some clean leaves at
the bottom of the stand, sprinkle with a handful
of salt, fill in half a bushel of cut cabbage,
stamp gently until the juice just makes its ap-
pearance, then add another handful of salt, and
so on until the stand is full. Cover over with
cabbage leaves, place on top a clean board fit-
ting the Space pretty well, and on to of that a.
stone weighing twelve or fifteen pounc 5. Stand
away in a cool place, and when hard freezing
comes on remove to the cellar. It will be ready
for use in from four to six weeks. The cabbage
should be cut tolerably coarse. The Savoy
variety makes the best article, but it is only half
as productive as the Drumhead and Flat
Dutch.

SUE T, T a Ifi’qx—Suet may be kept a year,
thus : Choose the firmest arid most free from
skin or veins, remove all traces of these, put the
suet in the saucepan at some distance from the
fire, and let it melt gradually; when melted pour
it into a pan of cold spring-water ; when hard,
wipe it dry, fold it in white paper, put it in a
linen bag, and keep it in a cool, dry place; when
used, it must be scraped, and it will make an ex-
cellent crust with or without butter.

TOMA T 053, Canning—The most thorough
and reliable mode of canning tomatoes is as'fol-
lows : They are just sufi‘iciently steamed, not
cooked, to scald or loosen the skin, and are then
poured upon tables and the skin removed, care

eing taken to preserve the tomato in as solid 3
state as possible. After being peeled, they are
placed in large pans, with false bottoms perforat-
ed with holes, so as to strain off the liquid that
emanates from them. From these pans they are
carefully placed by hand into the cans, Wthh are
filled as solidly as possible—in other words. all
are put in that the cans will hold. They are
then put through the usual process and herme-
tically sealed. The (ans, when opened for use,
present the tomato not only like the natural veg-
etable in taste and color, but also in appearance;
and moreover, when thus sealed, they are war-
ranted to keep in any climate, and when opened.

PRESER VING AND STORING.

will taste as naturally as when just plucked from
the vine. .

TOMA T 0 CA TS (IR—Take perfectl ripe
tomatoes % bushel; wash them clean and reak
to pieces; then put over the fire and let them
come to a boil, and remove from the fire; when
they are sufficiently cool to allow your hands in
them, rub through a wire sieve; and to what
goes through, add salt 2 tea-cups; allspice and
cloves, of each, ground, I tea-cup; best vinegar
I qt. Put on to the fire again and cook I hour,

' stirring with great care to avoid burning. Bottle
and seal for use. If too thick when used, put in
a little vinegar. If they were very juicy they
may need boiling over an hour.

TOAIA TO F1 GS.——I. Collect a lot of ripe to-
matoes about one inch in diameter, skin, and
stew them in the usual manner; when done, lay
them on dishes, flatten them slightly, and spread
over them a light layer of pulverized white or
best brown sugar; expose them to a summer’s
sun, or place them in a drying house; when as
dry as fresh figs, pack in old fig or small boxes,
with sugar between each layer. If properly
managed, the difference cannot be detected from
the veritable article.—2. Pour boiling water over
the tomatoes, in order to remove the skins; then
weigh them, and place them in a stone jar, with
as much sugar as you have tomatoes, and let
them stand two days; then pour off the syrup,
and boil and skim it until no scum rises. Then
pour it over the tomatoes, and let them stand
two days, as before; then boil and skim again.
After the third time, they are fit to dry, if the
weather is good; if not, let them stand in the
syrup until drying weather. Then place on large
earthen plates or dishes, and put them in the
sun to dry, which will take about a week, after
which pack them down in small wooden boxes,
with fine white sugar between every layer. To-
matoes prepared in this manner will keep for

ears.

y TOMA T 0 (Green) Pickle-I. Slice and steam
till they begin to soften, take from the steamer
and put in jars, add a little salt, about a teacup-
ful of sugar, half of a spoonful of pepper, cloves
and cinnamon each, one—fourth of a spoonful of
spice, some whole mustard seed and slice one or
two good sized onions with it; cover the whole
with vinegar and let stand twenty-four hours;
then scald the liquid and when cold it is ready
for use. The seasoning is for one gallon. -—
2. Slice I peck green tomatoes; take I gallon
vinegar, 6 tablespoonsful whole cloves, I of all-
spice, 2 of salt, I of mace, I of cayenne pepper;
boil the vinegar and spices 10 minutes; put in
the tomatoes and boil all together % hour lon-
ger; when cold put in jars.

TOMA T OES, Preserved—Take of good ripe
tomatoes, such a quantity as you wish to preserve,
pare them, cut them in quarters, (if large ones,)
place them in a stew an with a little water, so
they will not burn; being a very juicy fruit, they
require to be cooked until the juice is nearly all
out; then add white sugar—one pound to each
pound of fruit; cook slowly one-half hour.

TOMA T0 SA UCE, To Keep. —-Take six
pounds of ri e tomatoes, crush them, and sprinkle
with salt; et them remain a day or two, then
boil and pass through a coarse sieve or colander.
Put into the liquor half a teaspoonful of Cayenne
and a dessertspoonful each of cloves, epper,
ginger, and cinnamon; boil it one-thir away,

 

3x:
and bottle tight. It should be shaken before
being used.

TRIPE, To Prepare and Pickle—First sew
it up, after it is turned inside out; be careful to
sew it up tight, that no lime gets into it; now
have a tub of lime-water, the consistence of good
thick white-wash; let it remain in from 10 to 20
minutes, or until when you take hold of it, the
dark outside skin will come ofl‘; then put it into
clean water, changing three or four times to
weaken the lime, that the hands be not injured
by it; then with a dull knife scrape off all of the
dark surface, and continue to soak and scrape
several times, which removes all offensive sub-
stances and smell. After this, let it soak 20 or
30 minutes in 2 or 3 hot waters, scraping over
each time; then pickle in salt and water 12 hours,
and it is ready for cooking; boil from 3 to 4
hours, cut in strips to suit, and put it into nice
vinegar with the various spices, as desired ;
renew the vinegar at the expiration of I week,
is all that will be required further.

VEGETABLES, Ifeqzbing. — Sink a barrel
two-thirds of its depth into the ground (a box or
cask will answer a better purpose); heap the
earth around the part projecting out of the ground,
with a slope on all sides; place the vegetables
that you desire to keep in the vessel; cover the
top with a water tight cover; and when winter
sets in, throw an armful of straw, hay, or some—
thing of that sort, on the barrel. If the bottom
is out of the cask or barrel, it will be better.
Cabbages, celery, and other vegetables, will
keep in this way as fresh as when taken from the
ground. The celery should standmearly perpen-
dicular, celery and earth alternating. Freedom
from frost, ease of access, and especially fresh-
ness, and freedom from rot, are the advantages
claimed.

VEGETABLES, Pickle fan—Six quarts of
the very best vinegar, one pound of salt, a quar-
ter of a pound of ginger, one ounce of mace, half
a pound of shallots, one tablespoonful of cayenne
pepper, two ounces of white peppercorns, and
two ounces of mustard seed. Boil all these in-
gredients well together, and when cold put into
a jar. You may add what green vegetables or
fruit you like, provided they are fresh. They
may be merely wiped to free them from dust.

WALNUT CA T S UP.--Walnut-shell juice,
3 gallons; salt, 7 pounds; 'nger, 8 ounces;
shallots, 8 ounces; garlic, ounces; horse-
xfidish, 8 ounces; essence of anchovies, I quart.

1X.

WA LN U TS ( W/zile), T a Pidgin—Pare green
walnuts very thin till the white appears, then
throw them into spring-water with a handful of
salt; keep them under water six hours, then put
them into a stewpan to simmer five minutes, but
do not let them boil; take them out and put them
in cold water and salt; they must be kept quite
under the water with a board, otherwise they
will not pickle white; then lay them on a cloth
and cover them with another to dry; carefully
rub them with a soft cloth, and put them into the
jar, with some blades of mace and nutmeg sliced
thin. Mix the spice between the nuts and pour
distilled vinegar over them; when the jar is full
of nuts pour mutton fat over them, and tie them
close down with a bladder and leather, to keep
out the air.

WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE, (Lea and
Prrrin’s).—White vinegar, :5 gala; walnut cat-

312

DICTIONARY OFEVERKDA Y WANTS.

 

sup, IO gals. ; Madeira wine, 5 gals; mushroom
catsup, IO gals; table salt, 25 lbs.; Canton soy,
4 gals; powdered capsicum, 21bs.; powdered all-
spice, I 1b.; coriander, owdered, I 1b.; cloves,
‘mace and cinnamon, of) each % 1b.; assafoetida,
% 1b., dissolved in brandy, I gal. Twenty
pounds of hogs’ liver is boiled for 12 hours with
10 gallons of water, renewing the water from
time to time. Take out the liver, chop it, mix
with water, and work it through a. sieve: mix
with the sauce.

SOAP AND

ADUL TERA TION 0F SOAP.-Soap is
not exempted from the manipulation of fraud.
Its external appearance often prevents the un-
practiced eye from detecting the impurities it
may contain, without further examination.

China clay is a common addition made to soap
to increase its bulk. If a soap containing it be
dissolved in hot water, one part of soap in ten of
water, on allowing the solution to rest, the clay
will be found at the bottom of the vessel, and its
proportion in the soap ascertained.

Soap largely admixtured with soluble glass (a
solution of flint or silica in an excess of caustic
'soda) is very common in the market. Its weight
is much greater than that of soap in its unadul‘
terated state, and will usually show at once the
probability of such an admixture, although such
a soap may leave no sediment in a solution of it
in hot water; but it is unsafe to employ it for
washing fine fabrics, as it is apt to weaken them
on account of the excess of alkali itimparts to the
soap with which it is mixed.

From IO to 30 per cent. of the silicate of soda
is generally added. The soap feels somewhat
hard and gritty in use. The soluble glass is intro.
duced gradually into the pan after all the grease
is in, and stirred actively until thoroughly
mixed.

Soap is also sometimes contaminated with lime ;
this renders it partially insoluble in water, and
makes it unfit for the laundry or the toilet.

ACID (Marqzwr’x) Soap.——-Castile soap, 2
pounds; water sufficient to render it soft; oil of
vitriol, I ounce. Add the acid gradually, and
keep rubbing them in a mortar, until the whole
becomes of an equal consistence. Detergent.

AL!!! 0ND Soap.—Take oil of almonds, 7
pounds ; soda, 1% pounds; water, sufficient
quantity. The soda must be rendered caustic,
before adding it to the oil, and heat must then be
applied. An easy way of preparing the soda, is
to treat it in solution, with powdered quicklime.

AL/VOJVD (Bitter) Soap—Take fine hard
white soap, 100 pounds; essence of bitter al~
monds, 1% per cent. Treat them as for Cin-
namon Soap.

A LM OZVD [MEAL—Ground almonds, I 1b.;
wheat flour, I lb. ; orris root powder, % 1b.; otto
of lemon, % 02.; otto of almonds, % drachm.

ALAIOND PASTE. — Bitter almonds,
blanched and ground, 1% 1b.; rose-water, 1%
pint; alcohol (60 o. p.), I6 025.; otto of berga-

 

YEAST, T o Preserve. —— Common ale yeast
may be kept fresh and fit for use several months by
the following method: Put a quantity of it into
a close canvas bag, and gently squeeze out the
moisture in a screw-press till the remaining mat-
ter be as firm and stiff as clay. In this state it
may be close-packed up in a tight cask, for secur-
ing it from the air, and will keep fresh, sound,
and fit for use for a long time.

CANDLES.

mot, 3 025. Place the ground almonds and one
pint of the rose-water into a stewpan; with a
slow and steady heat, cook the almonds until their
granular texture assumes a pasty form, constant-
ly stirring the mixture during the whole time,
otherwise the almonds quickly burn to the bot-
tom of the pan, and impart to the whole an em-
pyreumatic odor.

The large quantity of otto of almonds which is
volatilized during the process, renders it essen-
tial that the operator should avoid the vapor as
much as possible.

When the almonds are nearly cooked, the re-
maining water is to be added; finally the paste
is put into a mortar, and well rubbed with the
pestle; then the perfume and spirit are added.
Before potting this paste, as well as honey paste,
it should be passed througha medium fine sieve,
to insure uniformity of texture, especially as a1-
monds do not grind kindly.

Other pastes, such as Pate de Pistache, Pate
de Cocos, Pate de Guimauve, are prepared in a
similar manner to the above.

AJWANDINE. —- Fine almond oil, 7 lbs.;
simple syrup, 4 02.; white soft soap, or sapona-
ceous cream, i. e., créme d’Amande, I 02.; otto
of almonds, I 02.; otto of bergamot, I 02.; otto
of cloves, % oz. Rub the syrup with the soft
soap until the mixture is homogeneous, then rub
in the oil by degrees; the perfume having been
previously mixed with the oil.

In the manufacture of amandine the difiiculty
is to get in the quantity of oil indicated, without
which it does not assume that transparent jelly

appearance which good amandine should have.

To attain this end, the oil is put into “a runner,”
that is, a tin or glass vessel, at the bottom of
which is a small faucet and spigot, or tap. The
oil being put into this vessel is allowed to run
slowly into the mortar in which the amandine is
being made, just as fast as the maker finds that
he can incorporate it with the paste of soap and
syrup ; and so long as this takes place, the result
will always have a jelly texture to the hand. If,
however, the oil be put into the mortar quicker
than the workman can blend it with the paste,
then the paste becomes “oiled,” and may be
considered as “done for,” unless, indeed, the
whole process be gone through again, starting
off with fresh syrup and soap, using up the
greasy mass as if it were pure 011. This liability
to “go off ” increases as the amandine nears the

SOAP AND

finish; hence extra caution and plenty of “elbow
grease” must be used during the addition of the
last two pounds of oil. It the oil be not perfect-
ly fresh, or if the temperature of the atmosphere
be above the average of summer heat, it will be
almost impossible to get the whole of the 011
given in the formula into combination ; when the
mass becomes bright and of a crystalline luster,
it will be well to stop the further addition of oil
to it.

This and similar compounds should be potted
as uickly as made, and the lids of the pots
ban ed either with strips of tin-foil or fpaper, to
exclude air. When the amandine is lled into
the jars, the top or face of it is marked or orna-
mented with a tool made to the size of half the
diameter of the interior of the jar, in a similar
way to a saw; a piece of lead or tortoise-shell,
being serrated with an angular file, or piece of an
“old saw,” will do very well; place the marker
on the amandine, and turn the jar gently round.

ARSENICAL Soap. —From carbonate of
potash, 12 oz. ; white arsenic, white soap and
air-slaked lime, of each, 4 oz.; powdered cam-

hor, % oz. ; made into a paste with water, q. s.
llsed to preserve the skins of birds and other
small animals.

ASS/1 Y If Sonja—M. F. Schulze communi-
cates to the Journal de Pharmacie et de Chimie
a rapid and convenient method of estimating the
value of soap. The method is the same as that
adopted for estimating the hardness of potable
Water, i. e., it is based on the fact that lime water
precipitates a solution of soap, yielding a liquor
which does not give a persistent froth by agita-
tion. The process is conducted as follows: A
standard solution of lime is made by dissolving
1.6 grammes in water, with a little caustic soda,
and making up the solution to one litre. Five
grammes of the soap are weighed and dissolved
in boiling water; the solution is allowed to cool,
and is made up to a determinate volume, say 100
c. c. for soft soap, 200 c. c. for hard soap.
Three c. c. of the standard lime solution are now
added to 20 c. c. of distilled water, and to this
diluted solution the soap liquor is added gradu-
ally from a burette. At first, the soap added is
precipitated by the calcareous water, and a per-
sistent froth 15 not produced by agitation; but,
after a time, a point is reached at which the froth
becomes persistent. The volume of soap solu-
tion requisite to produce this effect is then noted;
the quantity is smaller the better the quality of
the soap. If, moreover, an assay has been made
on a sample of soap of standard value, avery
exact appreciation of the value of any given
sample of soap may be subsequently obtained by
comparing the results.

BA YBEA’A’ Y, or [Myrtle Soap—Dissolve 2%
pounds of white potash in 5 quarts of water, then
mix it with to pounds of myrtle wax, or bay-
berry tallow. Boil the whole over a slow fire
till it turns to soap, then add a teacup of cold
water; let it boil ten minutes longer; at the end
of that time, turn it into tin moulds or pans, and
let them remain a week or ten days to dry; then
turn them out of the moulds. If you wish to
have the soap scented, stir into it an essential
oil that has an agreeable smell, just before you
turn it into the moulds. This kind of soap is
excellent for shaving, and for cha ped hands;
it is also good for eruptions on the ace. It will
be fit for use in the course of three or four weeks

 

CANDLES. 3r3
after it is made, but it ,is better for being kept
ten or twelve months.

BLACK Soap.-—- This is properly a crude soft
soap made of fresh oil, tallow, an potash; but
the following mixture is usually sold for it:—
soft soap 7 lbs.; train oil 1 1b.; water I gallon;
boil to a proper consistence, adding ivory black
or powdered charcoal to color. Used by farriers.

BLEA CHING Soap—This is a soda soap
prepared according to the excellent prescription
of the Prussian pharmacopoeia, which prescrip-
tion has been copied in almost all other works
of the kind; the soap is separated by common
salt, and after this one fourth of its weight of
sulphite of soda is added, which has been pre-
viously made into a homogeneous paste by
means of a little water; the soap is next dried in
the usual manner. In order to apply this soap,
chiefly intended for the bleaching of straw hats,
but perfectly fit for application to silk and wool,
it is dissolved in its own weight of cold water,
and to every 2 lbs. of soap % oz. of liquid am-
monia is added. As soon as the mass has a
gelatinous aspect, I part thereof is dissolved in
8 parts of warm water. The materials which it
is desired to bleach are washed and scrubbed by
means of a brush in this soap-suds; while yet
moist, the materials are placed in acidulated
water, (25 parts of water and 1% of hydrochloric
acid,) left in this liquid for 2 hours, and then
well washed, and rinsed with pure cold water,
and dried.

CANDLES. —Candles are made of various
materials, but the first operation, in all cases, is
the preparation of the wicks. The best candle
wicks are made of cotton rovings, imported from
Turkey in skeins. 4 or more of these, according
to the intended thickness of the wick, are wound
on a reel, from which they are again run oil", and
cut of the proper lengths. They are then dipped
into melted tallow, and after rubbing with the
hands, are placed straight and allowed to harden.
They are next arranged upon the broaches ready
for dipping. For mould and other candles that
do not undergo the process of dipping, this last
operation is omitted. In some cases the wicks
are formed by twisting or plaiting the cotton
together, or winding it round wires, which are
withdrawn after the candles are made, thus
leaving the wicks hollow; this was the method
patented by Gay Lussac, for his stearine candles.
In some instances, the cotton is steeped in metal-
lic solutions. The object in all these processes
is to produce a wick that will consume itself,
and thus prevent the necessity of snufling. Great
care is taken to select a cotton that will yield the
least possible quantity of ashes, or non-volatile
matter after burning.

CAJVDLES, Adamanlz'ne.—Adamantine can-

,dles are made of stearine, and stearine is made in

two ways. One way is to boil common tallow with
one-sixth of its weight of slaked lime until a
lime soap is formed. The lime so. is put in-
to another vessel and four parts ofP sulphuric
acid for every three parts of the lime (previously
used) mixed with it to get out the lime. It is
heated and stirred until the fat all runs off and
leaves nothing but sulphate of lime and water.
The fat is now allowed to cool, is then shaved
into thin slices, put into canvas bags and into a
hydraulic press. Here the fluid portion is driven
out and the stearine remains. This is again
shaved and pressed. The cakes now left are

314

commercial stearine o; stearic acid, an inflam-
mable substance without any greasy feeling. The
other method is to blow steam into cocoa-nut oil
or palm oil and thus separate the glycerine from
the fat. After the glycerine is taken away, the
fat is allowed to cool and treated as above. No
acid or lime is used in this process.

CAA/DLES, Composition.—These are gener-

(ally made of a mixture of spermaceti and hard
white tallow, to which a little bleached rosin is
sometimes added. The origin of the application
of the term “composite” or “compOSition” to
candles, is somewhat laughable. A manufac-
turer who had a large stock of spermaceti candles
on hand, of a dirty hue, and therefore unsalable,
advertised them under the above name, and they
were soon disposed of, from the supposition that
they were composed of some new combination of
materials.

CANDLES from Lard. — I. For twelve
pounds of lard take one pound saltpetre and one
pound of alum; mix them and pulverize them ;-
dissolve the saltpetre and alum in a gill of boil-
ing water; pour the compound into the lard
before it is quite all melted; stir the whole until
it boils; skim off what rises; let it simmer until
the water is boiled out, or until it ceases to
throw off steam; pour off the lard as soon as it
is done, and clean the boiler while it is hot. If
the candles are to be run you may commence
immediately; if to be clipped, let the lard cool to
a cake, and then treat it as you would tallow.——-
2. To every eight pounds of lard, add one ounce
nitric acid, and the manner of making is as
follows: having carefully weighed your lard,
place it over a slow fire, or at least merely melt
it; then add the acid, and mould the same as
tallow, and you have a clear, beautiful candle.
In order to make them resemble bona fide tal-
low candles, you have only to add a small pro-
portion of pure beeswax.

CANDLES, Mineral.—Ozocerite isamineral
wax—chemically, a hydrocarbon—and, in its raw
or native state, is of a yellowish color, of slight
specific gravity, and somewhat fibrous in its
structure. It will not burn of itself, but will
readily melt on a light being applied to it. On
being roughly wrapped around a central wick,
even in its native state, it is easily and regularly
consumed. In fact, a rude candle can be made
of the raw material and a cotton wick. It is
found principally in Austria. Moldavia, the Cau-
casus, and near the Caspian Sea, where it is
obtained in great quantities, being largely used
in those countries for illuminating purposes, and
was discovered by a Russian military officer.

The substance is generally melted down for
convenience of storage in transit, in which condi-
tion it forms a dark-colored mass, and is packed
in barrels, the native or unmelted ozocerite being
sent over in canvas bags.

To prepare it for use, it is first conveyed into
melting-tanks, holding from two to three tons
each, and where it is melted down by means of
a steam coil. From these tanks the ozocerite is
run off to a series of stills, holding from two to
three tons each, in which it is distilled over
partly by steam and partly by bottom heat. The
dirt and bottoms from the crude ozocerite are run
off from the melting-tanks into another set of
tanks beneath them, where they are remelted,
the finer products being afterward distilled over.
The ozocerite comes over from the stills in the

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

form of an oily distillate, which is run from the
condensers into moulds and allowed to cool.
This gives a deep yellowish, wax-like substance
of a spongy nature, the pores being filled with
oil, which exudes under a slight pressure. These
cakes are packed between oilskins and canvas
cloths, and placed in hydraulic presses, of which
there are three of large capacity. The pressed
cake, after removal is put into reheating tanks
and again melted down, and is pumped from
these tanks by a steam pump into the acidifiers
where it is treated with a sulphuric acid. These
acidifiers are steam-jacketed, and are fitted with
revolving agitators by which the ozocerite and
acid are agitated together for a certain time, after
which the mixture is allowed to settle. After
settling, the purified ozocerite is drawn off from
the lower part of the acidifiers—the acid remain-
ing on the top—and run into vessels which are
heated by bottom heat. This is the final heat-
ing, and from these vessels the fine stuHis drawn
off into moulds, the result being a hard white
wax, the melting-point of which is 140°, that of
paraffine wax being only 128°. From this wax
the candles are made.

In some cases, and under certain conditions
which occasionally present themselves in the
process of manufacture, the ozocerite, when se-
parated from the acid, is washed with hot water.
The water having been removed, the material is
repeatedly filtered through animal charcoal, until
the requisite degree of whiteness is obtained.
There are also several specialties about the manu-
facture, which requires to be conducted with the
greatest nicety and exactness, or the looked-for
results may be entirely negatived. One point is
that of temperature, that attained in the stills
being exceedingly high and variable with certain
varying circumstances and at different stages of
the process. Another point is the length of time
during which the ozocerite is exposed to the
action of the acid or of the charcoal. It is also
important whether and when either the acid bath
or the charcoal filter should be used. We should
mention that there are several by-products, the
chief of which is a very clear colorless oil, with-
out smell, and of very high illuminating power.

The candles thus made have proved in every
way equal to those made of the best wax, having
only the drawback of smouldering and giving off
an offensive smell when blown out. This, how-
ever, is not peculiar to them alone, as it is also,
a fault in wax candles, arising from the rapidity
with which the wax cools. It may easi y be
obviated by using an old-fashioned extinguisher,
or by coating the wick with some material harder
than ozocerite.

CANDLES, Spemzaceti.—Spermaceti, either
alone or combined with hard white tallow, forms
very good candles, but they will not bear carry-
ing about in the hand without spilling the melted
portion.

CANDLES, Stearim. —These are made of
the stearine or stearic acid obtained from tallow,
in the same way as other mould candles. "1 hey
furnish a superior light, and burn a long time:

CANDLES, Tallow (By szping).— 'lhe
broaches being covered with wicks, are arranged
in frames ready for dipping. The dipping Cistern
being filled with tallow of a proper temperature
from the boiler, one of the frames is placed upon
the end of the dipping beam,.and pressed down
gently into the melted fat; it is next Withdrawn,

 

SOAP AND CANDLES. 3: 5

 

the bottoms of the candles just touched against
a board placed on-one side of the cistern for the

urpose, and then removed to the rack. Another
is now taken and treated in the same manner,
and the process is continued with fresh frames
until those first dipped are sufficiently cool to
undergo a second immersion. This 0 eration is
re eated until the candles acquire a su cient size,
when they are finally cooled, sorted, weighed,
and strung in pounds for sale. The dipping
beam is simply a piece of wood hung from the
ceiling by the center, and arranged with weights
at one end, and at the other with supports to
receive the frames with the wicks. It is so
balanced that a slight pressure with the fingers
is sufficient to depress it so as to immerse the
wicks or partly formed candles into the tallow
of the dipping cistern. On withdrawing the
pressure, the beam again assumes the horizontal
position, and thus raises the candles out of the
melted fat. The dipping-room, or shop, is
usually situated in the coldest part of the pre-
mises, and furnished with a species of Venetian
shutters throughout the entire length of walls, (if
possible,) after the manner of breweries, to pre-
serve a constant current of cool air.

CANDLES, Tallinn/(By Moulding .—Mould
candles are made of the best kind 0 tallow; a
mixture of 3 parts of sheep with 1 part of ox
suet, both fresh, makes the most glossy and
consistent candles. The moulds are made of
pewter; the part answering to the bottom of the
candle being left open, and a small hole at the
top also left for the wick; eight or more of these
moulds are fitted into a stool, the upper surface
of which forms a kind of trough, the bottom part
of the mould being upwards. The wicks are
then introduced by putting a long wire, furnished
with an eye or hook at one end, down through
the mould, until it protrudes at the bottom, (or
rather top,) when a wick is inserted and the
needle is then immediately drawn back. As soon
as all the moulds have received their wicks, a
wire is run through the loop of each and then
allowed to rest on the top of the moulds; the
protruding portion of the wicks is next pulled
tight, and properly arranged in the centers of the
moulds. Melted tallow of a proper temperature
is now poured into the trough-like part of the
stool, until the moulds are all full. The wicks
are again pulled tight, and the whole allowed to
cool. When quite cold, the wire that held the
wicks is withdrawn, and the candles pulled out
one by one, by inserting a bodkin into the loop
of the wick. The better class of moulds are then
either bleached by exposing them to the dew
and air for a few days, or by keeping them for a.
few weeks, until sufficiently whitened.

CAIVDLES, Tallow (For Summer me).—
Most tallow, in summer, is more or less soft and
often quite yellow. To avoid both, take your
tallow and put alittle bees-wax with it, espe-
cially if your bees-wax is dark and not fit to sell;
put into a suitable kettle, adding weak lye and
gently boil an hour or two each day for 2 days,
stirring and skimming well; each morning cut-
ting it out and scraping off the bottom which is
soft, adding fresh lye (be sure it is not too
strong) I or 2, or 3 gals., according to the
amount of tallow. The third morning use water
in which alum and saltpetre is dissolved, at the
rate of I lb. each, for 30 lbs. of tallow; then
simmer, stir, and skim again; let cool, and you

 

can take it off the water for use. They may be
dipped or run in moulds; for dipping, allow two
pounds for each dozen candles.

CANDLES, Wax.—-These are made either
by pouring melted wax over the wicks, or by
applying the wax in a soft state with the hands,
and afterwards rolling it smooth with a roller of
polished box wood, upon a table formed of pol-
ished walnut wood. They are then cut and
trimmed. The first part of this process is usually
conducted over the cistern of melted wax, and
the wicks are strung upon an iron hoop suspend-
ed from the ceiling.

CAJVDLES, Imz'talion Wax.—Purify melted
tallow by throwing in powdered quick lime, then
add two parts wax to one of tallow, and a most
beautiful, article of candle, resembling wax, will
be the result. Dip the wicks in lime water and
saltpetre on making. To a gallon of water add
2 ozs. saltpetre and % lb. of lime: it improves
the light, and prevents the tallow from running.

CANDLES, Wicks fan—Of late years the
best candles are made in such manner that they
do not require snuffmg. The simplest way of
effecting this is to make the wick with one strand
of loosely twisted cotton, which will become
slightly stretched when the wick is placed in the
candle, but will contract again on its burning,
removing the force that kept it extended. If this
roving be placed at the outside of the wick, it is
evident that when it contracts, it will pull the
latter into a curved shape, and thus expose its
upper part to the outer portion of the flame,
as well as to the atmosphere, by which means
it will be consumed with sufficient rapidity to
prevent the necessity of using the snuffers. The
same may be effected by placing the candle at an
angle of about 45°, by which means the up er
part of the wick will be out of the flame; ut
this plan, besides being unsightly, is liable to the
risk of the tallow dropping beyond the candle-
stick. Platted wicks, so arranged that one por-
tion shall be stretched more than another, have
long been adopted for the same purpose.

CANDLE WICKS, Preparing—There are
several prescriptions for solutions to improve
wicks, the best of which is the following: Borax,
2 ounces; chloride of calcium, chloride of am-
monium, and saltpetre, 1 ounce each; then dis-
solved in three quarts of water and filtered; the
wicks are soaked in this solution and then dried.

Another is: first steep the wicks in a solution
of lime-water, in which saltpetre has been dis-
solved. To I gallon of water add 2 ounces salt-
petre and % pound lime. Dry well the wicks
before using. It improves the light, and prevents
the tallow from running.

CAMPHORA TED Soap—Sixteen ounces of '

white soap, eight ounces of boiling water, six
ounces of olive oil and one drachm of powdered
camphor ; dissolve the soap in the water, evapor-
ate slowly to the consistence of asoft paste, add the
camphor incorporated with the oil, mix thor-
oughly and pour into moulds. It is excellent for
chapped hands or lips and excoriations.

CA RBOLI C A CID Soap—Take freshly pre-
pared cocoa-nut oil soap, 150 parts, and fuse;
then add a solution of alcohol, 10 parts ; carbolic
acid, 6 parts; caustic potassa, 2 parts ; oil of
lemon, I part, and mix with stirring. To be
poured into moulds.

CHEMICAL Soap, (For taking 02'], Grease,
etc. from tit: clot/z.\-—Take 5 pounds Castile

316

.DICYYONARY 0F EVER Y—DA Y WANTS.

 

soap, cut fine; I pint alcohol; I pint soft water;
zounces aqua fortis; 1% ounce lampblack; 2
ounces saltpetre ; 3 ounces potash; I ounce
camphor, and 4 ounces cinnamon, in powder.
First dissolve the soap, potash, and saltpetre, by
boiling; then add all the other articles, and con-
tinue to stir until it cools; then pour into a box
and let it stand twenty—four hours and cut into
cakes. ~

. CHEMICALSOFTSoapc—Takegrease,81bs.;
caustic soda, 8lbs.; sal-soda, 1 lb. ; melt the grease
in akettle, melt the sodas in softwater, 4 gals., and
pour all into a barrel holding 4o gals. and fill up
with soft water, and the labor is done. When
the caustic soda. cannot be obtained of soap-
makers, you will make it by taking soda-ash and
fresh slaked lime, of each eight pounds; dissolv-
ing them in the water with the sal-soda, and
when settled, pouring off the clear liquid.

CHLORINA TED Soaps—From Castile soap
(in powder), 11 ozs.; chloride of lime (dry and
good), I 02.; mix, beat them to a mass with rec:
tified spirit, q. s.; holding in solution oil of ver-
bena or of ginger grass, % 02.; lastly form the
mass into flat tablets, and wrap these in thin
sheet gutta percha. A most excellent detergent
and stimulant soap in various affections, admir-
ably adapted for hospital use, and for removing
stains from the skin and rendering it white. It
is the most powerful known agent against infec-
tion from contagious diseases communicated by
Contact.

CINNAMON Soap—Palm oil soap, 2 parts;
good tallow soap, 3 parts. Reduce to shavings,
then liquefy by adding a little water, and lacing
the mixture in a water bath until perfect y unit-
ed; next cool to about 135° Fahr., and add finely
powdered yellow ochre to color, and a sufficiency
of the following perfume : Essence of cinnamon,
7 arts ; essence of bergamot, 2 parts; essence
o sassafras, I part. Well mix the whole togeth-
er and mould.

C] T RON Soap—Curd soap, 6 lbs.; otto of
Citron, % 1b.; otto of verbena (lemon grass), %
oz.; otto of bergamot, 4 025.; otto of lemon, 2
025. One of the best fancy soaps that is made.

COLD Soaps-Twenty-two pounds of soap,
20 pounds of grease, and % of a pound of rosin.
This quantity will make a barrel of soap. Keep
the grease tried out and strained, so as to be
ready for use when the requisite quantity is gain-
ed. Select the gray looking potash, put it into
the soap barrel, pour on it hot soft water to faci-
litate dissolving; when softened put in the grease,
reserving two or three pounds to melt the rosin
in ; keep adding hot water till it stirs readily and
when nearly to the top put in the melted rosin
and fat. This soap is good and strong, will keep
any length of time and be free from insects.
When wanted for use dip out a quantity and add
a third of soft water to it. The dark potash is
apt to stain the clothes in washing.

COSMETIC Soap—Take a pound of Castile
soap, or any other nice old soap; scrape it fine;
put it on the fire with a little water;.stir it to a
smooth paste; turn it into a bowl; when cold,
add some lavender water, or any kind of essence;
beat it with a silver spoon till well mixed ; thicken
it with Indian meal, and kee it in small pots,
closely covered; exposure to t eair will harden it.

EMULSIN A U 7ASMIZV. - Saponaceous
cream, I 02.; simple syrup, 1% oz.; almondoil, I
1b.; best jasmine oil, % lb.

 

.J’.

EAIULSIN A LA VI OLE TT E.—Saponap
ceous cream, I 02.; syrup of violets, 1% 02.; best
violet oil, 1% lb.

On account of the high price of the French oils
these emulsions are expensive, but they are un-
doubtedly the most exquisite of cosmetiques.

ENGLISH BAR SOAP.-—Six gallons soft
water; 6 lbs. good stone lime ; 20 lbs. sal-soda ;
4 025. borax ; 15 lbs. fat (tallow is best); 10 lbs.
pulverized rosin, and 4 025. bees-wax; put the
water in a kettle on the fire, and when nearly
boiling add the lime and soda; when these are dis-
solved, add the borax; boil gently, and stir until
all is dissolved ; then add the fat, rosin, and bees-
wax; boil all gently until it shows flaky on the
stick, then pour into moulds.

ERA SIVE Soap—2 pounds of good Castile
soap; % pound of carbonate of potash; dissolved
in % pint hot water. Cut the soap in thin
slices, boil the soap with the potash until it is
thick enough to mould in cakes; also, add al-
cohol, % ounce; cafnphor, % ounce; hartshorn,
% punce; color with % ounce pulverized char-
coa .

FA T (Animal), To Prepare/for Soap Making.
—-Tallow, when exposed at common temperature
in the air, gradually acquires an unpleasant,
rank smell. This can be prevented by cutting it
in slices, and boiling it in water containing for
every one hundred pounds of fat (water, thirty-
five to forty pounds), one quarter of a pound of
alum, one half pound of salt; this is boiled to.
gether and strained; the cake of strained fat
taken up and washed in clean water; then re.
melted at a low heat, and poured into a barrel
containing twice as much water (by measure) as
of the melted grease, and to this water add about
ten per cent. of good clear sweet soap compared
to the amount of grease, the water not to be
more then bloodvheat, and the temperature of
the grease about the same. The whole is thor-
oughly stirred with a broad stick till cold, when
it is allowed to rest and separate from the water,
which is afterward withdrawn, and the fat re-
maining, in a granular state, completely drained,
and finally dried in a current of dry air, is then
transferred and packed in firkins, crocks or bar‘
rels.

Grained fat thus prepared, is kept sweet, and
is also acted on by the lye with a far greater ease
and ra idity, in consequence no doubt of its
grain-1i e state, which enables the alkali in the
lye to act upon a greater surface at once without
requiring the boiling of the fat with the lye, and
producing a soap free of rank smell, while the
grained fat in suet may be preserved sweet for
soap-making purposes for years, if thoroughly
dried before packing away.

FLOA T [N G Soap—Good oil soap % cwt.;
water % gallon; melt by the heat of a steam
or water bath in a pan furnished with an agitator,
which must be assiduously worked till the soap
has at least doubled its volume, when it must be
put into the frames, cooled, and cut into pieces.
Lathers well and is very pleasant. Any scent
may be added. .

FRANGIPAM’VI Sam—Curd soap (prew-
ously colored light brown), 7 lbs.; civet, % oz.;,
otto of neroli, % 02.; otto of santal, 1% oz.;‘
otto of rose, )4 02.; otto of vitivert, % oz. Rub
the civet with the various ottos, mix, and beat in
the usual manner.

F ULLER’S EAR T H Soap—Curd soap, :0};

SOAP AND CANDLES.

lbs. ; marine soa , 3% lbs.; fuller’s earth (baked),
141135.; otto of ‘rench lavender, 2 02.; otto of
origanum, I oz. _

GALL Sufi—Gall soap, for the washing of
fine silken cloths and ribbons, is prepared in the
following manner: In a vessel of cop er one

ound of cocoa-nut oil is heated to 60 Fahr.,
whereupon half a pound of caustic soda is added
uith constant stirring. In another vessel, half a
pound of white Venetian turpentine is heated,
and when quite hot, stirred into the copper kettle.
This kettle is then covered and left for four hours,
being gently heated, after which the fire is increas-
ed until the contents are perfectly clear, where-
upon one pound of ox-gall is added. After this,
enough good, perfectly dry castile soap is stirred
into the mixture to cause the whole to yield but
little under the pressure of the finger; for which
purpose, from one to two pounds of soap are re-
quired for the above quantity. After cooling, the
soap is cut into pieces. It is excellent, and will
not injure the finest colors.

01615.4 SE, To Preserva—Boil all the scraps,
rinds, and bones, in a weak lye, and the purer
grease in clear water. Let the mixture cool,
take off the cake of grease, and strain it. It is
well to do this occasionally, as you save it; for
when kept a long time, impure grease becomes
offensive. You must be careful to dry off all
the water before laying it away in your grease
tub, if you wish it to keep sweet.

GREA SE, To Punfy.—If the grease is very
foul in smell, it should be put in a boiler with
water, on the fire (about three times as much
water as of the grease), a small quantity (say a
teaspoonful for five to ten pounds of grease) of
permanganate of potash added, by stirring, to
the whole, and after the mixture has cooled a
little, it is strained through a cloth, and allowed
to rest, when the cake of fat is taken out and put
in a cool place, or in the pot in which it is to be
remelted for transformation into soap. The pur-
pose of the permanganate of potash is to remove
the rank odor of the grease, which otherwise
would contaminate the soap also.

HA RD Soap. -——Fused sulphate of soda has
been used to harden soaps, which, made from
inferior fats, would otherwise be too soft. This
substance (Glauber salts, melted on a shovel or
otherwise,) added to the soap in the proportion
of 1 lb. of the salt to 20 lbs. of the soap, is said
to remedy the defect, and to make a hard and
sound soap out of what would otherwise be too
soft for economical use.

HARD Soap—Take 6 pounds of sal-soda, 6
pounds grease, and 3 pounds quick lime. Thor-
oughly mix the soda and lime in four gallons of
water, pour off from the sediment, put in the
grease and boil 20 minutes; pour off and before
entirely cold cut in bars.

[1A A’D Soap from Soft. ——Take 7 lbs. good
soft soap; 4 lbs. 53.1 soda; 2 ounces borax; I
ounce hartshorn ; % lb. rosin, to be dissolved in
22 quarts of water, and boiled about twenty min-
utes.

HARD Soap, will; Lard.—Sal-soda and lard,
of each 61b5,; stone lime 3 lbs.; soft water 4 gals. ;
dissolve the lime and soda in the water, by boil-
ing, stirring, settling and pouring off; then return
to the kettle (brass or copper) and add the lard
and boil until it becomes soap; then our into a
dish or moulds, and when cold, cut It into bars
and let it dry.

 

317

HONEY Soap. —Cut thin two pounds ,of
yellow soap into a double saucepan, occasionally
stirring it till it is melted, which will be in a few
minutes if the water is kept boiling around it,
then add a quarter of a pound of palm oil, quar-
ter of a pound of honey, three ennyworth of
true oil of cinnamon; let all bell together an-
other six or eight minutes; pour out and stand
it by till next day; it is then‘ fit for immediate
use. If made as these directions it will be found
to be a very superior soa .

II'OrVEY AND ALMOJVD PASTE. —
Bitter almonds, blanched and ground, % 1b.;
honey, I 1b.; yelk of eggs, in number, 8; a1-
mond oil, I 1b.; otto of bergamot, of cloves,
each, '4, oz. Rub the eggs and honey together
first, t en gradually add the oil, and finally the
ground almonds and the perfume.

[ODINE Sonja—From castile soap (sliced) I
1b.; iodide of potassium, l 02.; dissolved in wa-
ter, 3 ii. 02.; melt them together in a glass or
porcelain vessel, over a water bath. Excellent
in various skin diseases; also as a common soap
for scrofulous subjects. ;

yUAUI’Elt’ TAR Soap—This soap is made
from the tar of the wood of the Juniperus com-
munis, by dissolving it in a fixed vegetable oil,
such as almond or olive oil, or in fine tallow, and
forming a soap by means of a weak soda lye,
after the customary manner. This yields a
moderately firm and clear soap, which may be
readily used by application to parts affected with
eruptions, at night, mixed with a little water,
and carefully washed off the following morning.
This soap has lately been much used for eruptive
disorders, particularly on the continent, and with
varying degrees of success. It is thought that
the efficient element in its composition is a rather
less impure hydrocarburet than that known in
Paris under the name “huile de cade.” On ac-
count of its ready miscibility with water, it pos-
sesses great advantage over the common tar oint-
ment used for itch, etc.

LABOR-SA VIJVG Soap.—Take 2 pounds of
sal soda, 2 pounds of yellow bar soap, and 10
quarts of water. Cut the soap in thin slices, and
boil together two hours ; strain, and it will be
fit for use. Put the clothes in soak the night
before you wash, and to every pail of water in
which you boil them, add a pound of soap. They
will need no rubbing; merely rinse them out,
and they will be perfectly clean and white.

LIQUID Soaps—Sweet oil, 7 parts; caustic
potass, 1 part; rose water sufficient quantity to
reduce it to a proper state. Rub the oil, alkali,
and a few spoonfuls of the water together in a
hot mortar until united, then add the remainder"
of the water as required.

LYE, To Malia—Have alarge tub, or cask,
and bore a hole in one side, for atap, near the
bottom; place several bricks near the hole, and
cover them with straw. Fill the barrel with
strong wood ashes. Oak ashes are strongest;
and those of apple-tree wood make the whitest
soap. Pour on boiling water until it begins to
run, then ut in the tap and let it soak. If the
‘asfies sett e down as they are wet, fill in until
u .

LYE, W/zite. —This is made by pouring a
pailful of boiling water over 4 or 5 quarts of
ashes. Let it stand a while to infuse; then pour
in cold water to settle it, when you can pour it

oflcloar. This is very good to boil dirty clothes

318 DICTIONARY OF EVERY—DAY WANTS.

in. When made nice, is equal to soda, and does
not, unless made extremely strong, injure the
clothes.

MARBLED SOAP BALLS..— Take ten
pounds of white oil soap and ten pounds of Joppa
soap. Cut them into small square pieces, which
set to dry for three days: the oil soap, particular-
ly, must be thus dried. Scra e, very fine, five
pounds of oil soap, which dry or one day in the
open air; mix it well in the shaving box, with
five pounds of powder, and add an ounce and a
half of the best vermilion.

In mixing, place pieces of soap and colored
powder in layers in the box; making in all four
alternate layers of each. When a layer of each
has been laid in the box, sprinkle a pint of rose
water over the cut soap; for if it be much com-
bined with the powder it will become lumpy and
hard, and consequently spoil the wash balls. The
same quantity of water is to be used for moisten-
ing each of the other soap layers. Next mix a

int of thin starch, which has been well boiled in
iialf a pint of rain water, with half a pint of rose
water, and distribute it, equally well mixed,
among the mass, by turning it over repeatedly,
and then press it down close with the hands. If
a piece be now cut out from the mass the opera-
tor will perceive whether the marbling is suf-
ficiently good : and if so, he may proceed im-
mediately to form his wash balls.

MA C QUER’S A CID Soap.—Castile soap, 4
025.; soften by heat and a little water ; add oil of
vitriol q. s., continually triturating the mass in a
mortar. Detergent. Used where alkalis would
be prejudicial.

M USK Soap—Good tallow soap, 30 pounds;
palm soap, 26 pounds. Treat as for cinnamon
soap, and perfume with the following mixture:—
Powdered cloves, 5 ounces; powdered pale roses,
5 ounces; powdered gillyflower, 5 ounces; es-
sence of bergamot, 4 ounces; essence of musk,
3% ounces. Color with brown ochre, 4%
ounces.

ORANGE FLOWER Soap—Palm soap, 2
parts; tallow soap, 3 parts. Mix, as for cin-
namon soap, and perfume with the following es-
sences: Essence of Portugal, 8 parts; essence
of amber, 7 parts. Mix. Color with the fol-
lowing, as required: Red lead, 5 parts; yellow
green, 33 parts. Mix.

PALM Soap (superz'or).-—Cut thin two pounds
of yellow soap into a double saucepan, occasion-
ally stirring it till it is melted, which will be in a
few minutes, if the water is kept boiling around
it; then add quarter of a pound of palm oil,
quarter of a pound of honey, and six cents worth
of true oil' ofycinnamon; let all boil together an-
other six or eight minutes; pour out, and stand
it by till next day. It is then fit for immediate use.

PEARL SOF T Soap—Take lard, 2 parts;
potass lye (36° B. ), I part. Put the lard over
the fire; and, when half melted, stir it with a
spatula until it assumes the appearance of milk,
then add half the lye, stir well, but avoid increas-
ing the temperature. When soapy granulations
commence forming, and fall to the bottom, add
the rest of the lye; continue the stirring until the
paste is formed, then transfer the pan to a bath
of warm water, and let them cool together. When
cold, pound it in a marble mortar until it as-
sumes a pearly appearance. Scent with bitter al-
monds essence.

PISTA C1110 JVUT MEAL. - Pistachio

 

nuts (decorticated as almonds are bleached), I lb. ;
orris powder, 1 1b.; otto of neroli, l drachm;
otto of lemons, % oz.

Other meals, such as perfumed oatmeal, per-
fumed bran, etc., are occasionally in demand,
and are prepared as the foregoing.

POT A5157, Yield qf.-——As a general rule, the
ashes of the following woods give:

100 lbs. of pine ashes yield 45-100 1b., or less

than half a pound of otash.

too “ poplar ashes yield % l .

roo “ beech “ “ 1.4 “

loo “ oak H ‘5 2-0 l‘

100 “ willow “ “ 2.85 “

IOO “ sug. maple “ 3.9 “
loo “ elm ‘I . “

100 " wheat straw “ 4.18 “

loo “ vine branches “ 5. “

Ioo “ dry cornstalks “I7.5 “

Ioo “ potato stalks ‘ .—- “

One pound of caustic potash, on an average,
combines with five pounds of clean grease, and
will make five gallons of good soft soap. V

ROSIN Soap—Fifteen per cent. of rosin can
be saponified with potash or soda lye, and mixed
with clear, warm tallow soap to a good purpose;
more would deteriorate it, although for the
cheapest grade of soaps, thirty-three per cent. is
often added; but such soaps remain soft and
clammy, and are unsatisfactory to the consumer.
Twelve gallons of strong lye (30° to 36° Beaume)
are needed for 100 lbs. of rosin. Some soap-
makers melt it with the fat in the commencement
of the boiling of the soap, but experience has
shown that it is best to preparé a pure tallow
soap first, and afterward mix with it the rosin
soap, made in a separate kettle. Both soaps in
the hot state are to be thoroughly incorporated,
by stirring and beating intimately for halfan hour,
and the whole passed through a wire sieve before
transferring to the frames, and therein also well
stirred with the crutch. Some palm oil, when
saponified along with the tallow, will much im-
prove the appearance of such a soap.

The rosin, previous to its being put in contact
with the lye, should be ground fine, and while
one workman is occupied in throwing it into the
boiler containing the hot lye, another should be
constantly Occupied in stirring it in, as the mix-
ture easily rises. The heat must not be too ra -
idly increased, nor is it necessary that it shou d
boil all the time, but merely keptnear the boiling
point, but it is indispensable to keep stirring the
mixture all the time, otherwise caking of the
rosin will interfere with the rogress of the ope-
ration. Saponification willP be completed in
about two hours, and then it may be added to the
fat about being converted into soap, as above
described.

SALT in Soap Making—A very practical
and a most useful adaptation of common salt
(chloride of sodium) in partial substitution for al-
kali in the manufacture of soap, is now being
most economically and advantageously used in
this country. A soap can be produced in the
bar, or molded into pattern, cheaper than by
any other known process; and plain and fancy
soaps of every odor, color, and design, are being
freely circulated, at a figure costing the public
no more, when boxed, than $2.88 or $3. 36 per
cwt. of 112 pounds. This, too, where the man~
ufacturers have to pay 30 cents per cwt. for car
riage on the salt.

u?

 

-SOAP AND

CANDLES. 319

 

SALT IVA T E)? Soap.— 5 lbs. caustic soda,
llons of water for the lye; 25 lbs. cocoa-nut
oil or lard, as it is sometimes called; melt the
oil, and introduce the lye gradually, and stir ac-
tively until creamy. A very small proportion of
fused Glauber salts helps to make the soap
harden.
SAN TA L- WOOD Soap—Curd soap, 7 lbs.;
otto of santal, 7 oz.; otto of bergamot, 2 oz.
SAND Soap—Curd soap, 7 lbs.; marine soap,
7 lbs.; sifted silver sand, 281bs.; otto of thyme,
of cassia, of caraway, of French lavender, each,

2 025.

SAPONA CEOUS CREAM of Almonds.—
The preparation sold under this title is a potash
soft soap of lard. It has a beautiful pearly ap-
pearance, and has met with extensive demand as
a shaving soap. Being also used in the manu-
facture of Emulsines, it is an article of no incon-
siderable consumption by the perfumer. It is
made thus: Clarified lard, 7 lbs. ; potash lye
(containing 26 per cent. of caustic potash), 3%
lbs.; recti ed spirit, 3 025.; otto o almonds, 2
drachms. Melt the lard in a porcelain vessel by
a salt water bath, or bya steam heat under I 5 lbs.

ressure; then run in the lye, very slowly, agitat-
ing the whole time; when about half the lye is
in, the mixture begins to curdle; it will, how-
ever, become so firm that it cannot be stirred.
The cream is then finished, but is not pearly; it
will, however, assume that appearance by long
trituration in a mortar, gradually adding the al~
cohol, in which has been dissolved the erfume.

SCENTING SOAPS COLD. ——This method
is exceedingl honvenient and economical for
scenting smal batches, involving merely mechan-
ical labor, the tools required being simply an
ordinary car enter’s plane, and a good marble
mortar, and ignum vitae pestle. The woodwork
of the plane must be fashioned at each end, so
that when placed over the mortar it remains firm
and not easily moved by the parallel pressure of
the soap against its projecting blade. To com-
mence operations, we take first 7 lbs., I4 lbs., or
21 lbs. of the bars of the soap that it is intended
to perfume. The plane is now laid upside down
across the top of the mortar. Things being thus
arranged, the whole of the soap is to be pushed
across the plane until it is all reduced into fine
shavings.

Soap as generally received from the maker is
the proper condition for thus working; but if it
has been in stock any time it becomes too hard,
and must have from one to three ounces of distil-
led water sprinkled in the shavings for every

ound of soap employed, and must lay for at
east twenty-four hours to be absorbed before the
perfume is added to it.
v. When it is determined what size the cakes of
soap are to be, what they are to sell for, and
what it is intended they should cost, then the
maker can measure out his perfume.

The soap being in a proper physical condition
with regard to moisture, etc., is now to have the
perfume well stirred into it. The pestle is then
set to work for the process of incorporation.
After a couple of hOurs the soap is generally ex-
pected to be free from streaks, and to be of one
uniform consistency.

SHA VIA/G Soap. —-I. Good white soap (in
thin shavings), 3 pounds; palm soap, I pound;
soft water, % pound; soda, I ounce. Melt care-
fully over a slow fire, in an earthen vessel, then

 

add oil of lavender, 60 drops; oil of lemon, 40
drops; bergamot, 50 drops. Mix well, and make
it into forms.——-2. Take 3 lbs. white bar soap, I
lb. castile soap, I quart rain water, % pt. beef’s
gall, I gill spirits turpentine. Cut the soap into
thin slices, and boil five minutes after the soap is
dissolved, stir while boiling: scent with oil of
rose or almonds. If wished to color it, use %
oz. vermilion.

SHA VING PASTE.—I. Naples soap (gen-
uine), 4oz.; powdered castile soap, 2 oz.; honey,
I oz. ; essence of ambergris and oils of cassia and
nutmegs, of each, 5 or 6 drops.——2. White wax,
spermaceti and almond oil, of each, ’4 oz.; melt,
and while warm, beat in 2 squares of Windsor
soap previously reduced to a paste with alittle
rose-water.—3. White soft soap, 4 oz.; sper-
maceti and salad oil, of each, % oz. ; melt them
together, and stir until nearly cold. It ma be
scented at will. When roperly prepared, t ese
pastes produce a good ather with either hot or
cold water, which does not dry on the face.
The proper method of using them is to smear a
minute quantity over the beard, and then to
apply the wetted shaving brush, and not to pour
water on them, as is the common practice.

SOAP-AIAKING 1'12 Gmeml.—Animal fat,
such as tallow, is the substance most at hand of
all other fatty matters for soap-making, although
vegetable oils, such as palm, cocoa-nut, castor,
sunflower, olive and other oils, and also rosin,
are used in soap-making occasionally, but tallow
being more easily obtainable, and generally at a
lower cost than most of the oils above enumerat-
ed, is most extensively employed in the manufac-
ture of domestic soap. For purpose, after being
freed of skin by boiling, straining and remelting,
it is heated to the temperature of boiling water,
and mixed on the fire with a hot solution of
either soda, potash, or both, in water called the
lye; the whole is gradually transferred into an
iron pot, larger by at least one-third than the
whole mixture, about one quart of the melted
fat being first ladled into it, then as much or
more of the hot lye, the mixture constantly stir-
red on the fire till a sort of creamy matter is
formed, the ladling kept on alternately till all the
lye and fat are mixed together; the stirring to
be kept up on a moderate fire till the mixture
boils, and is allowed to boil some ten or fifteen
minutes, according to the strength of the lye
employed ; it is then transferred from the boiler
into a form, a tight box, in which muslin has
been‘placed overhanging the box, so that the
soap may be afterward more easily drawn out of
it for the purpose of drying it, or else it may be
poured in a common wash-tub, previously soaked“
in water to prevent adhesion to the tub, and
there allowed to harden for a few days, from
whence it is transferred on boards, or upon a
table, to dry and be cut in bars for use, by means
of an annealed wire.

SOAP-MAKING, Country. -—In most parts
of this country it is as convenient, and much
cheaper, to make soap from the lye of leached
ashes than from a soda lye.

To leach the ashes properly for this urpose,
from two to five per cent. of lime should3 be add-
ed, to give pro er causticity to the potash in so-
lution which t e lye contains. The ordinary
process is to have a receptacle made of boards
and lined with straw, cone-shaped, the lye run-
ning through at the bottom. Upon the straw,

320

DICTIONARY OFEVERY-DA Y IVANTS.

 

fresh wood ashes mixed with a little lime, is
placed, and water poured thereon and allowed
to filter through and trickle out from the point
into a proper vessel. The lye will not be of
uniform strength. Hot water poured upon the
ashes makes a stronger lye than cold; in other
words, it extracts more potash from the ashes.
To get the lye to auniform strength, and one
proper for soap-making, boil it until a sound
potato will float upon its surface. This is the
farm wife’s specific gravity test, and it is as ac-
curate as any sold by the opticians. Then, into
a kettle two-thirds full of lye, in with your melt-
ed fat, by ladlefuls at a time, and stir until it is
creamy; now begin to add the salt by small
handfuls, stirring carefully and rapidly until a
ring made of the soapy matter on the stirring
Istick, remains visible. Then allow the fire to go
out, and the soap to harden. It usually gathers
on the top of the spent lye, from which it may
be lifted when hard, or the lye can' be poured off
by tipping the kettle. Soft soap is made in the
same way, without the salt.

A correspondent of a monthly magazine gives
the following method of making soap for family
use in the country: I start the lye to boiling,
and then while boiling, if the lye is not strong
enough to eat the feather off a quill, boil it down
until it is. When it will just eat the feather, let
the kettle be a little more than onthhird full of
lye, and put in grease, skins of the hogs, bacon
rinds, meat fryings, and the like, until the kettle
is about two-thirds full. The kettle must not be
full, for with the least bit too much fire, over the
soap goes. It is better to put in a little less than
the necessary amount of grease. Lye and grease
COmbine in certain proportions, but pass the
limit, and no amount of boiling will take up an
excess of grease. It will remain on top, hot or
/cold, and will be very troublesome; whereas a
Ilittle too much lye will sink to the bottom when
lthe soap comes. If the proportions are good, a
little fire only is required to keep it boiling, and
in a few hours it is done. Then take a bucket
of weak lye, and let it boil up with the soap once.
This will not disturb the already made soap, but
will wash the dirt out that was in the grease, and
with it settle to the bottom. When the soap is
cold it can be cut out in cakes. Exposure to the
air will soften it down until it is of about the con-
sistence of mush, and a little darker, growing
fairer and fairer. Some, instead of putting in
lye to wash the dirt out of the soap, nt in salt
and water. The soap thus made is w iter, but
is apt to be too stiff to use easily in the wash-tub.
It makes excellent ball soap for washing dirty
hands. I take some weaker lye and the clean
part of that which is left in the bottom of the
soap kettles, and enough to half fill one of the
kettles or more, setting it in some convenient
place outdoors. I put a stick of wood on the
north side of the top of the kettle, lay on some
boards, making a roof which is easily managed
to shed rain, and lay another stick on top to keep
the roof in place. By lifting one of the boards a
little, I can put in from time to time whatever
soap-fat is gathered in the family through the
summer. Whenever the sun shines, I remove
the cover and stir the lye. I facilitate the busi-
ness a little in this way, and I have by fall a half
kettle of decent soap, and no trouble with soap-
fat in hot weather.

SOAP-MAKING éy t/ze Cold Way.-—The fat

 

is melted at a low heat, not warmer than blood
heat, and the lye gradually added—4o lbs. of
strong lye (about 36°, Beaume’) to 80 lbs. of fat,
and less, even should the lye be stronger still.
The lye should be perfectly clear, and not more
than tepid in temperature. The fat and the lye
should be persistently stirred with a broad
wooden spatula, having sharp edges at its lower
end, and rounded at its upper, for easy hand-
ling. The paddling should be kept up until a
ring drawn with the spatula remains visible a
short time. It is at that point that the coloring
matters and perfumes are added, if any are
wanted.

The parts should then be run into frames,
previously lined with muslin so carefully that no
olds be formed at the edges of the box. Each
frame should be entirely filled with the soap, and
well closed, with the margin of the muslin, and
also fitted with a modern cover. The whole
should be left for about one day to rest in a mild
temperature, the complete change or saponifi-
cation completing itsel in the frames, where the
temperature rises spontaneously to sometimes
over 175° F. Under the influence of this action
the various constituent principles in the mass,
including the glycerine, become further com-
bined, and a soap produced almost resembling
that of boiled soaps. At the expiration of twenty-
four hours the soap may be taken up from the
frames, and cut up in bars to dry. Sometimes,
especially when mutton tallow is mostly em-
ployed with soda for the lye, one-tenth of potash
is added, to diminish the hardness of the soap;
at the same time it increasesa’ts solubility and
quality, the soap resulting from that addition not
being brittle when dry, as it would be when
exclusively made of hard tallow and soda lye.
The yield of such soap is about 150 lbs. to 100
lbs. of fat.

SOAP (flame-made) from Camz‘ic Swim—It
sometimes happens that caustic soda is not
within reach, and yet sal-soda is to be had. To
transform this material into a suitable lye for
soapmaking, this is a convenient and suitable
process: Dissolve sal-soda, say three pounds, in
two gallons of warm water. Slake in a firkin
three pounds of good quicklime; add to it the
soda solution; stir the whole thoroughly with a
stick, and add two gallons of boiling water; stir
again, and let it settle. Pour off the clear liquor
in a clean iron boiler laced on the fire, and stir
into it six pounds 0 clarified grease, and two
ounces of powdered borax. Let it boil slowly
till it gets thick and ropy (about ten minutes
boiling), and pour it into a tub or tight box, as
stated above. Soap thus made is an excellent
hard soap for family use; after drying a month
or so in a dry-room, and cut into bars, it is fit
for use.

SOAP, C/zmp.—-Soap for family use can be
made very cheap and of excellent quality With
little trouble by the use of a common article sold
in all drug stores. This is lye put up in a con-
centrated form in small iron boxes holding one
pound. These boxes cost 25 cents in ordinary
times, now we believe they retail at 40 or 50
cents, and will make 25 pounds of green or new
soap. The lan of proceeding is merely to take
a box of this substance, knock off the lid, and
throw it into a gallon of boiling water. After
standing ten hours, the lye will be clear, and
must be thrown into a wash boiler with another

SOAP AND CANDLES.

321

 

gallon of boiling water; when the contents of the
vessel boil, four pounds of any grease must be
added slowly, poured in a thin stream and stir-
ied well. When intimately mixed, the boiler
‘should simmer slowly for four or six hours, and
half an hour before taking off, another gallon of
hot water may be added, together with half a
teacupful of salt. The latter is not necessary,
however, and if too much is thrown in, the soap
is curdled or made short so that it breaks and
wastes. When the soap is thought to be done,
plunge a case knife in; if the mass drops clear
and ropy and chills quickly, it is soap and will
be firm and hard when cold. Have ready a wash
tub well wet on the bottom and sides; pour the
soap in and let it set; in a few hours it will be
hard enough to cut out and as white as snow.
This process makes twenty-five pounds of soap;
or, by the aid of grease, four pounds, lye, one
pound, twenty-four pounds of water, less two
quarts driven off in boiling, (one gallon weighs
eight pounds nearly,) are converted into soap of

' excellent detersive properties. Since the grease
is saved from the family waste, the soap has only
cost what the lye has come to, and as the loss
by drying is only 25 per cent., eighteen pounds
of soap Can be made for fifty cents, or a little
less than three cents per pound.

SOAP AU BOUQUEZ—Good tallow soap
(in shavings), % cwt.; essence of bergamot, 4
ounces; oil of cloves, 7 drachms ; oil of sassafras,
7 drachms; oil of thyme, 7 drachms; neroli, 3 %
drachms; brown ochre to color. Reduce the
soap to a perfectly even paste by the heat of a
water-bath, adding a little water, then proceed,
as for Soap a la Rose. .

SOAPA LA [€OSE.——New olive oil soap 30
lbs.; new tallow soap 20 lbs.; reduce them to
shavings by sliding the bars along the face of an
inverted plane, melt in an untinned copper an
by the heat of steam or a water-bath, add I %%2.
of finely-ground vermilion, mix well, remove
the heat, and when the mass has cooled a little,
add essence of roses (otto?) 3 02. ; do. of cloves
and cinnamon, of each I 02.; bergamot 2%
02.; mix well, run the liquid mass through a
tammy cloth, and put it into the frames. If the
soaps employed are not new, 1 or 2 quarts of
water must be added to make them melt easily.
Very fine.

SOAP from Yelk of Egg—M. Manny, a
pharmacien, of Valence, in Dauphiny, has intro-
duced into commerce, with considerable success,
a soap made from yelk of egg, which is s oken
highly of, its price being the only objection to
its general use. This soap is of a yellow color
and firm consistence, having an odor by no
means disagreeable. It dissolves readily in any
water, and cleans as well as the best Marseilles

soa .
.SPPERAIA CE T I Soap—Curd soap, I4 lbs. ;
“otto of bergamot, 2% lbs. ; otto of lemon, % lb.
/ S T ARK E Y ’S Soap—Spirits of turpentine,
caustic potash, and water, of each a sufficient
quantity. The potash may be rendered caustic
by passing the lye over quicklime.
S ULPH URE TED Soap. -- From white
soap, 2 oz. ; sublimed sulphur, % oz. ; beaten to
a smooth paste in a marble mortar with I or2 fl.

dr. of rectified spirit strongly colored with,

alkanet root, and holding in solution otto of
roses, to or 12 drops. In itch and various other
cutaneous diseases. .4

 

SOFT Soap.— I. Take I gallon of soft soap.
to which add I gill of common salt, and boil an
hour. When cold, separate the lye from the
crude. Add to the crude 2 pounds of sal soda,
and boil in 2 gallons soft water till dissolved. If
you wish it better, slice 2 pounds of common bar
soap, and dissolve in the above. If the soft soap
makes more than 3 pounds of crude, add in pro-

ortion to the sal soda and water.—-2. For One

arrel take potash, eight pounds; melted and
clarified fat, eight pounds. Crack the potash in
small lumps, and put it into a large iron pot of
three or four gallons capacity, with hot boiling
water to nearly fill it. Heat the fat in another
iron pot quite hot. Put three or four gallons of
hot water in the barrel, previously cleaned and
ready for use, and ladle in it alternately the hot
fat and hot lye; stir the whole briskly forawhile
before more lye and fat are ladled in, and gradu-
ally add enough hot water to fill the barrel; stir
again the whole, after each ladle of hot water,
till the whole becomes a creamy mass, uniform
in its appearance. Allow it to rest for three
months in a temperate place or cellar.—3. Dis-
solve a quarter of a pound of lime in a gallon of
cold water, then take off the clear; dissolve half
a pound of sal-soda in a quart of water, and mix
it with the clear lime-water ; one pound of brown
soap, dissolved in a gallon of water, is then to
be added to the clear liquor formed with the sal—
soda and lime-water, and this forms the soap.
This soft soap is excellent for boiling white
linens. It removes all grease that is in them,
because it contains an excess of caustic lye.
About one quart of it is sufficient for boiling
clothes in a ten gallon copper. A quantity of
this may be made up and kept for constant
use.

TALLOl/V, To Clarifix.——Dissolve one pound
of alum in one quart of water, add this to 100
pounds of tallow in a jacket kettle (a kettle set
in a larger one, and the intervening space filled
with water. This prevents burning the tallow.)
Boil three quarters of an hour and skim. Then
add one pound of salt dissolved in a quart of
water. Boil and skim. When well clarified the
tallow should be nearly the color of water.

TALLOVV, To Harden. —I have used the
following mixture with success: To one pound
tallow take one fourth of a pound common rosin;
melt them together, and mold the candles the
usual way. This will give a candle of superior
lighting power, and as hard as a wax candle; a:
vast improvement upon the common tallow~
candle, in all respects except color.

TEST for Soap—The value of boiled soa s.
of course depends greatly on the quality of t e
materials used. This accounts for the difference-
in price and quality. The urest materials, such
as clean tallow or pure oils, thoroughly saponified,
yield the most valuable soaps, costing more per
pound, but they are cheaper in the end. A good
soap is a perfectly neutral compound, and will in
no case injure the most delicate fabrics. The
simplest method of testing soap is by tasting. If
it is shar and biting on the tongue, there is an
excess 0 alkali; but if it leaves no unpleasant
sensation on the tongue, there is not the least:
danger that it will rot or otherwise injure clothes
in washin .

T 01V Q UIN M USK Soap—Pale brown color‘
ed curd soap, 5 lbs.; grain musk. % 02.; otto of
bergamot, t 02. Rub the musk with the

21

 

322 D1 C T] ONA R Y 01“ .5 VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

bergamot, then add it to the soap, and beat

11 .

pTRA NSPA RENT Soaps—Are usually pre-
pared from good tallow and rosin soa thoroughly
dried and cut into thin shavings. T ese are stir-
red in strong alcohol (sp. gr., 849.), heated in a
still to the boiling point in a water-bath or steam
jacket arrangement; a stirring rod being con-
nected with the still the soap is promptly dissolv-
ed, and the alcohol condensedin a worm and re-
cipient for future operations, while the soap is
discharged from its boiler through a pipe and
faucet at the bottom into a kettle, where it is ra-
pidly perfumed with essential oils, and from
there into molds of any given form for purposes
of sale. Three and a half to four gallons of a1-
cohol are usually employed for dissolving 50 lbs.
of soap in shavings.

TRANSPARENT Soap.—— Slice 6 lbs. nice
yellow bar soap into shavings ; put into a brass,
tin. or copper kettle, with alcohol, % gallon,
heating gradually over a slow fire, stirring till
all is dissolved; then add I oz. sassafras essence,
and stir until all is mixed; now pour into pans
about 1% inches deep, and when cold cut into
square bars the length or width of the pan, as
desired.

TRANSPARENT SOFT Soap—Solution
caustic potash (Lond. Ph.), 6 lbs.; olive oil, I
1b. Perfume to taste.

Before commencing to make the soap, reduce
the potash lye to one half its bulk by continued
boiling. Now proceed as for the manufacture
of saponaceous cream. After standing a few
days, pour off the waste liquor.

WASH BALLS, Cream—White curd soap, 7
pounds ; powdered starch, l pound; water or
rose water sufficient to mix. Beat the whole to-
gether, and form into balls.

WASH BALLS, Lemma—Cut 6 pounds of
soap into very small pieces ; melt it with a pint
of water in which 6 lemons have been boiled.
When melted, withdraw the soap from the fire,
and add 3 pounds of powdered starch, and a
little essence of lemon. Knead the whole into a
paste, and form into balls of the desired size.

WASHIIVG FLUIDS. —-—This preparation
answers very well for family washing, and saves
soap considerably, which last is needtul merely
upon the most soiled portions, such as wrist-
bands, collars, etc. Sal-soda, three pounds ;
best unslaked lime, three quarters of a pound;
hot water, four gallons. Slake the lime in suf-
ficient boiling water; add to it the sal-soda, pre-
viously dissolved in the four gallons of hot wa-
ter; stir the whole thoroughl , and allow it to
rest and settle; pour off the c ear liquid; bottle
in clean bottles, and cork tight for use. To two
pails of water add one pint of washing fluid, and
boil the clothes in it (it is better to boil the wa-
ter before adding the fluid.)

This preparation in the proportions given, does
not injure the linen, and diminishes the amount
of soap and rubbing considerably. Another ex-
cellent one is as follows:

Take two pounds of the best brown soap; cut
it u and put it in a clean pot, adding one quart
of c ean soft water. Set over the fire, and melt
thoroughly, stirring it up from the bottom oc-
casionally. Then take from the fire, and stir in
one tablespoonful real white wine vinegar; two
large tablespoonfuls of hartshorn, and seven
large tablespoonfuls of spirit of turpentine. Hav-

 

ing stirred the ingredients well together, put the
mixture immediately into a stone jar; cover
without delay, lest the hartshom evaporate.
Keep it always closely covered. When going to
wash, nearly fill a six or eight gallon tub with
soft water, as hot as you can bear our hand in,
and stir in two large tablespoonfuis of the mix-
ture. Put in as many white clothes as the water
will cover; let them soak about an hour, mov-
ing them about in the water occasionally. It will
only be necessary to rub with the hands such
parts as are badly soiled; the ordinary dirt will
soak out. VVring out and rinse well through two
cold waters.

Next put into the wash kettle sufficient water
to boil the clothes (it must be cold at first), and
add to it two tablespoonfuls of the washing mix-
ture. Put in the clothes after the mixture is well
stirred, and boil them half an hour, not more.
Then take out and throw into a tub of cold water;
rinse well in this, and lastly put into a second
tub of rinsing water, slightly blued with the ins,
digo bag. The double rinsing is important, and
by following the above directions the washing
mixture will save much time and labor, and
render the clothes beautifully white, without
injury.

WHALE-OIL Soap—F or the destruction of
insects : Render common lye caustic, by boiling
it at full strength on quicklime; then take the
lye and boil it with as much whale oil foot as it
will saponify (change to soap), pour off into
molds, and, when cold, it is tolerabl hard.
Whale oil foot is the sediment produced in refin-
ing whale oil.

W'H] TE HARD Soap—To 15 pounds of
lard, or suet, made boiling hot, add slowly 6
gallons hot lye, or solution of potash, that
will bear p an egg high enough to leave a piece
big as a shilling, bare. Take out a little, and
cool it. If no grease rise, it is done. Ifany
grease appears, add lye, and boil till no grease
rises. Add 3 quarts of fine salt, and boil up
again. If this does not harden well on cooling,
add more salt. If it is to be perfumed, melt it
next day, add the perfume and run it in moulds,
or cut in cakes.

PVINDSOR Soap—1. Hard soap, 7pounds;
water to soften, then add oil of caraway, 2
drachms; finely powdered cassia, 3 ounces. Form
into cakes—2. Hard white soap, 7 pounds; oil
of caraway, 3 drachms; essence of bergamot, 6
drachms. Reduce to a paste with water, and
mould—3. White har soap, I cwt; potato
starch, 56 pounds ; pipe clay, 16 pounds; pearl-
ash, 4 pounds ; oil of cassia and oil of lavender,
each 8 ounces; oil of caraway and oil of origan-
um, each 6 ounces; oil of cloves, 1 ounce; ber-
gamot, 7 ounces. Mix. ——-4. White soap, 14
pounds; oil of caraway, 3 ounces; essence of
musk, 1 ounce; oil of origanum, % ounce; oil
of lavender and essence of bergamot, each %
ounce ; finely powdered cassia, 8 ounces. Reduce
with water, and form into cakes.—-5. White hard
soap, 56 pounds; white pipe clay, 50 pounds;
white pearlash, 6 pounds. Reduce them to a
paste with water, then add oil of cassia and oil
of caraway, each 8 ounces; oil of lavender, 6
ounces; oil of cloves, I ounce; essence of lemon
and essence of bergamot, each 5 ounces. Mix,
and form into cakes as before—6. Brown.
Brown pearlash soap and white hard soap, each
ficwtq pearlash or soda and yellow ochre, each

701.537:

‘ '7 pounds; pOwdered cassia, 3 pounds ;_ powdered
cloves, 1 pound; oil of carawa and Oil of laven~
der, each 8 ounces ; essence o bergamot and es-
sence of lemon, each 12 ounces. Mix.— 7.
(Brown) Good brown pearlash soap, fuller’s
earth, and white hard soap, each % cwt.; soda
and ochre, each 8 pounds ; powdered cassia, 5
pounds; powdered cloves, % pound; oil of cara-
way, 8 ounces. Mix.—8. (Brawn) Good brown
soa , 2 cwt.; white hard soa and fuller’s earth,
eac l cwt.; yellow ochre, ficwtq pearlash, 25

323

pounds; oil of caraway and oil of rosemary, each
I pound; oil of lavender, 2 pounds; essence of
bergamot, 3 ounds ; finely powdered cassia, 18
pounds ; fine y powdered cloves, % pound. Mix. .
-9. (Veryfina) Beef suet, 9 parts ; olive oil, I

art. Saponify with caustic soda lye, then col-
ect the paste, and add one per cent. of the fol-
lowing perfume: Oil of caraway, 16 parts ; oil of
rosemary and oil of lavender, each 5 parts. Mix
well, and mould.

TOILET.

BALDNESS, Treatment fan—A loosening
of the hair frequently occurs in young ersons, as
well as those of the middle period 0 life; this,
if neglected, becomes real baldness. But, if
proper treatment be pursued, the hair will grow
afresh, and assume all its pristine strength. A
useful practice in men, and those of the opposite
sex whose hair is short, is to immerse the head
in cold water morning and night; dry the hair
thoroughly, and then brush the scalp until a warm
glow is produced. In women with long hair
this lan lS objectionable, and a better one is to
brush the scalp until redness and a warm glow are
produced, then dab among the roots of the hair
the following lotion: Vinegar of cantharides, %
ounce; eau de Cologne, I ounce; rose water, I
ounce. Mix. If the lotion produce smarting,
or tenderness, the brush may be laid aside; but
if no sensation is occasioned, the brushin should
be resumed, and a second application 0 the 10-
tion be made. This treatment should be practic-
ed once or twice a day, or at intervals of a few
days, according to the state of the scalp; namely,
if tender, less; if insensible, more frequently.
When the baldness happens in patches, the skin
should be well brushed with a soft tooth brush,
dip ed in distilled vinegar, morning and evening,
or ipped in the lotion above mentioned. If the
lotion should have the effect of making the hair
harsh and dry, this inconvenience may be remov-
ed by the use of oil or pomatum after each appli-
cation of the lotion.

BALDNESS, Coal Oilfbr.——A resident of
Carrollton, Miss., has discovered that petroleum
will make the hair grow. The way that he found
out this new property of coal oil was simply this :
He had a large boil on the baldplace on his head,
which gave him much pain, and in the absence
of anything else he rubbed coal oil on it. He
says it relieved the pain almost instantly, so he
continued to rub on the oil until the boil was en-
tirely well, when, to his surprise, he found a thin
coatingof hair coming outover the bald place. He
continued the use of the oil for a month or two,
and now has a heavy coat of hair on his head.

BALDNESS, Erasmus I/Vilson’: Lotion fir.
—Eau de Cologne, 2 ounces; tincture of can-
tharides, 2 drachms ; oil of lavender or rosemary,
of each ten drops. These applications mustbe
used once or twrce a day for a considerable time;
but if the scalp become sore, they must be dis-
continued for a time, or used at longer intervals.

 

BALDNESS, Pomaa'e against.—Macerate a
drachm of powdered cantharides in one ounce of
spirits of wine. Shake it well duringafortnight,
and then filter. Take ten parts of this tincture,
and rub it with ninety parts of cold lard. Add
a little essence of bergamot, or any other scent.
Rub this pomade well into the head, night and
morning. In ninet -nine cases out of a hundred,
this application, i continued, will restore the
hair. Another receipt: Take of extract of yel-
low Peruvian bark, 14 grains; extract of rhatany
root, 8 grains; extract of burdock root, and oil
of nutmegs (fixed), of each 2 drachms ; camphor
(dissolved with spirits of wine), I 5 grains; beef
marrow, 2 ounces; best olive oil, I ounce; Citron
juice, )5 a drachm; aromatic essential oil, as
much as suflicient to render it fragrant; mix, and
make into an ointment. Two drachms of berg-
amot, and a few drops of otto of roses would
suffice. This is considered a valuable prepara-
tion for the hair, and is to be used as the above.

BA LDNESS, ot/wr Remake: for.— I. Take
water, I pint; pearlash, '2 ounce; onion juice,
I gill. Mix, and cork in a bottle. Rub the
head hard with a rough linen towel dipped in
the mixture.—2. Take water one pint, pearlash,
one-half ounce, onion juice one gill, mix and
cork in a bottle. Rub the head night and morn-
ing with a rough towel dipped in the mixture.—
3. Salad oil I 02.; oil of origanum 12 drops; oil
of rosemary [0 drops; oil of lavender 6 drops;
oil of cloves 2 drops; mix and shake well to-
gether.—4. Beef suet I oz.; tincture of canthar-
ides I teaspoonful; oil of origanum and berg-
amot, of each [0 drops. Prat. Melt the suet,
and when nearly cold, add the rest and stir until
set—5. The decoction of boxwood, successful in
cases of baldness, is thus made:—Take of the
common box, which grows in garden borders,
stems and leaves four large handfuls; boil in
three pints of water, in a closely covered vessel,
for a quarter of an hour, and let it stand in a
covered earthenware jar for ten hours or more;
strain, and add an ounce and a half of Eau de
Cologne, or lavender water, to make it keep.
The head should be well washed with this solu-
tion every mornin .

BEAUTIFUL, How to fit. —Beauty has its
foundations in physical well being. Health has
its laws, which must be understood and obe ed;
and these laws are clearly indicated in our p ysi-
cal and mental constitutions. They demand:

324

DICTIONARY OF EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

1. Proper food and drink in such quantities
as the system is capable of readily assimilating.

2. Air and sunlight in abundance.

3. Suflicient exercise, rest and sleep.

4. An agreeable temperature.

5. Perfect cleanliness.

The whole secret of a full form and rosy cheeks
lies in pure blood, manufactured from wholesome
food, by healthy and active vital organs, oxygen-
ated and vitalized in well expanded lungs, and
kissed by the life giving sunlight on the surface
of the warm cheek. She who will have the color
she covets on any other terms must buy it of the
apothecary, and renew it every time she makes
her toilet.

BLOTCHED FA CE, War/z fbr.—Rose-wa-
ter, three ounces; sulphate of zinc, one drachm.
Mix. Wet .the face with it, gently dry it, and
then touch it over with cold cream, which also
dry gently off.

BREA T117, Oj'emiw.——From six or ten drops
of the concentrated solution of chloride of soda,
in a wine glassful of pure spring water, taken
immediately after the ablutions of the morning
are completed, will instantly sweeten the breath
by disinfecting the stomach, which far from being
injured, will be benefited by the medicine. If
necessary, this may be repeated in the middle of
the day. In some cases the odor arising from
carious teeth is combined with that of the stom-
ach. If the mouth is well rinsed with a teaspoon-
ful of the solution of the chloride in a tumbler of
water, the bad odor of the teeth will be re-
moved.

C OLD CREAJII. —Take white wax I 02.,
spermaceti I 02., oil of almonds % pint. Melt,
pour the mixture into a Wedgewood mortar
which has been heated by being immersed in hot
water; add gradually rose water, 4 fl. ounces,
and stir until an emulsion is formed, and after.
ward until the whole is nearly cold. Put in pots.
It may be perfumed with bergamot or lavender.

COLD CREAM, Home made. — Procure
perfectly fresh lard, which has never been touch-
ed by salt; wash it thoroughly in spring water,
freshly drawn, and do this in three different wa-
ters; then leave it to soak in fresh water, and in
a cool shade for twenty-four hours. Then wash
it once more, and beat until it becomes a cream,
in as much rose-water of the stronger sort as it
will absorb, during the process of beating. When
finished, the rose-water will have penetrated
every part, and should also stand in little pools
here and there on the soft and porous-like sur-

face.

C 0MPLEXI 01V, To Preserve. —— Plenty of
out-door exercise, a welLregulated appetite, and
a cheerful mind are the best defence against the
“green and yellow” hue, which gradually creeps
over the roses on the checks of so many of our
country women.

COMPLEXIOZV, To Improve. -—— Take a
quarter of a pound of Castile soap, slice it down
into a pewter jar, and pour upon it two quarts of
alcohol; place the jar in a vessel of water at such
a heat as will cause the spirits to boil, when the
soap will soon dissolve; then put the jar, closely
covered, in a warm place until the liquor is clari-
fied; take off any scum that may appear on the
surface, and pour it carefully from the dregs,
then put it into a jar again, and place it in a ves-
sel of hot water, distilling all the spirits that may
arise 3 dry the remaining mass in the air for a

 

few days, when a white transparent soap will be
obtained, free from all alkaline impurities, and‘
perfectly void of smell. It is much used for
softening and beautifying the skin.

C OrVPLEXI 01V, War}; fan—Take two gal-
lons of strong soap-suds, add to this one pint
of pure alcohol, and a quarter of an ounce of
rosemary. Mix these well together, and the
are fit for application. It should be applied wit
a linen rag.

Another article, applied in the same way, and
easily obtained, is horse-radish, grated into
sweet milk; which will be fit for use in about
seven or eight hours.

C OZVIPLEXI 01V and C OLORS.—The pink
of the complexion is brought out by a green set-
ting in dress or bonnet; and any lady who has a
fair complexion, that admits of having its rose-
tint a little heightened, may make effective use
of the green color; but it should be a delicate
green, since it is of importance to reserve har—
mony of tone. When there is in t e face a tint
of orange, mixed with brown, a brick-red hue
will result from the use of green; if any green
at all be used in such a case it should be dark.
But for the orange complexion of a brunette,
there is no color superior to yellow. This im-
parts violet to a fair skin, and injures its effect.
A skin more yellow than orange has its yellow
neutralized by the suggestion of the complement,
and a dull white effect imparted. The orange
skin, however, has its yellow neutralized, and
the red left, so that the freshness of complexion
is increased in darkhaired beauties. Blue im-
parts orange, which enriches white complexions
and light fresh tints ; it also, of course, im roves
the yellow hair of blondes. Blue, there ore, is
the standard color for a blonde, or yellow for a
brunette. But the brunette who has already too
much orange in her face, must avoid setting it in
blue. Orange suits nobody. It whitens a bru~
nette, but that is scarcely a desirable effect, and
it is ugly. Red, unless when it is of a dark hue,
to increase the effect of whiteness by contrast of
tone, is rarely suitable in any close neighbor-
hood to a lady’s skin. Rose red destroys the
freshness of a good complexion; it suggests
green.

CORNS.—A horny induration of the skin,
with a central nucleus, very sensitive at the base.
The common cause of corns is continued pres-
sure over the projection of the bones, from tight
or stiff boots and shoes. They are of two kinds,
hard and soft. The first grow on the exposed
portions of the joints: the last, between the toes.
Prevention. — This consists in keeping the feet
clean, by frequent ablution in warm water, and
in the use of easy, soft, boots and shoes. With-
out the latter precaution, corns will return even
after they appear to have been perfectly removed.
Treatment.-—After soaking the feet in warm wa-
ter for a few minutes, pare the corns as close as
possible with a sharp knife, taking care not to
make them bleed. They may now be touched
over with a little lunar caustic, or nitric acid, or
a littlesoncentrated acetic acid or aromatic vin-
egar. The last two do not stain the skin. The
first is used by merely rubbing it on the corns,
previously moistened with water; the others, by
moistening the corns with them by means of a
small strip of wood, or, preferably a rod of glass;
due care being taken not to allow the liquid to
touch the neighboring parts. This treatment

TOILET. 325

 

adopted every three or four days for ten days or
a fortnight, accompanied by the use of soft, loose
shoes, will generally effect a cure. It has been
recommended to remove large corns by ligatures
of silk applied as close to their base as possible,
and tightened daily until they fall off; but tlns
plan is tedious and often inconvenient, and is not
always successful. Another mode of extirpation
is the application of a small blister, which will
frequently raise them with the skin out of their
beds. In this case the exposed surface must be
dressed with a little simple ointment. Soft corns
may be removed by applying ivy leaf, previously
soaked in strong vinegar, changing the piece
every morning; or by placing a dressmg of soap
cerate, spread on a bit of lint or old rag between
the toes. One of the simplest and best remedies
for hard corns, and which has received the sanc-
tion of high medical authority, is to wear upon
the toe or part affected a small circular piece of
soft leather, or still better, a piece of amadou
spread with diachylon or some emollient plaster,
and having a hole cut in the center correspond-
ing to the size of the corn. By this means the
pressure of the boot or shoe is equalized, and the
apex of the corn protected from injury. The
following are among the most useful of the po-
pular remedies for corns :

CORNS, Caurtizfon—Tincture of iodine and
chloride of antimony, of each one drachm; iodide
of iron, three grains; mix. It is applied with a
camel hair brush after paring the corn. Two
to four applications are said to effect a cure.

CORNS, Lotion fir. — I. A solution of sal
ammoniac, one part; in proof spirit, four parts.
2. A concentrated aqueous solution of sulphate
of copper. To be applied night and morning.

C ORN PLA S TERS.—-—I. From white dia-
chylon, three parts; yellow resin, two parts;
verdigris, one part; melted together and laid on
leather.—2. From galbanum plaster, one ounce;
verdigris, one drachm; as the last—3. From
resin plaster, two ounces; black pitch, one
ounce; verdigris and sal ammoniac, of each, half
drachm.-—4. To the last add powdered opium,
one drachm. Recommended to allay pain, etc.—
5. A piece of spread adhesive plaster is placed
upon a table, and a piece of card paper having a
round hole cut in it. the size of the central portion
of the corn is laid upon it; the exposed part is
then softened by holding a piece of heated iron
for a second or two near it; the card paper is
then instantly removed and nitrate of silver in
fine powder is sprinkled over the part which has
been warmed. As soon as the whole is cold the
loose powder is shaken off and the plaster is
ready for use. Very cleanly and convenient.
Two or three applications so dom fail to effect a

cure.

C ORJV PLA S T ER, (Mechanical). —— From
common adhesive plaster spread on buckskin,
amadou or vulcanized India rubber cut into
pieces and a circular hole corresponding to the
size of the corn punched in it.

C ORN, Pomadc for. —- I. Powdered ver-
digris, one drachm; savin ointment, seven
drachms.—2. Dried carbonate of soda, three
drachms; lard, five drachms; verdigris or smalts,
enough to give a slight tinge of green or blue.
Applied on a piece of rag.

CORN SOL VENT.—I. Carbonate of potassa
or pearlash, contained in an open jar or bottle,
set in a damp place until it deliquesces into an

 

oil-like liquid (oil of tartar). A plied by means
of a feather, or a small piece 0 rag dipped in it
is bound on the corn.—2. Hydrate of potassa,
one dram; rectified spirit, one ounce; dissolve.
As N o. L—3. Carbonate of potassa, with smalts,
ocher or bole, enough to give it the required
color. It must be kept dry in a well corked
bottle. A pinch is then placed on the corn and
confined by means of adhesive plaster or ragm’

4. Carbonate of soda, one ounce, finely powder. '

ed and mixed with lard, half ounce. A plied on
linen rag every night.— 5. Carbonate o potassa,
two parts; salt of sorrel, one part; each in fine
powder; mix and place a small quantity on the
corn for four or five successive nights, binding it
on with a rag. Care must be taken in all cases
to pare the corn moderately close before apply-
ing the remedy; but in no case should any 0 the
above be applied to a raw surface.

C URLS (False), Poniaa’e fan—Melt togeth-
er, in an earthen pipkin, 24 ounces of Burgundy
pitch and 8 ounces of white wax; add I ounce of
pomatum; remove from the fire, and add 4
ounces of brand or other spirit; replace it on
the fire till it boi s slightly, then strain through
linen, adding bergamot or other perfume, and
cast in molds.

DANDRUFE—Dandruff may be caused by
wearing close and heavy hats or caps, by the
application of oils or dyes to the hair, by confin-
ing the hair too closely to the head, by excessive
brain-labor, by uncleanliness, or by all these
causes combined. To effect a cure, wear the
hair short, let the head-covering be as light and
well ventilated as possible, avoid all applications
of grease or dyes, exercise the brain less and the
body more, and wash the head thoroughly two
or three times a day in cold water, and follow
each washing by a vigorous rubbing with the
balls of the fingers. The better the general
health is and the stronger the digestion, the less
tendency there will be to this disease, as well as
to all others.

DA NDR UFF, olher Remedz'erfir.—— I. Take
carbolic acid % drachm; oil of bergamot I
drachm; glycerine 2 oz. Mix; rub thoroughly
into the roots of the hair, and apply bay rum
freely afterwards; one application will cleanse
the hair and scalp as clean as can be desired. Its
use once a week will keep the hair soft and glos-
sy, and will prevent dandruff from forming,
besides keeping the scalp healthy and cool. -—
2. Take a thimbleful of powdered refined borax,
let it dissolve in a teacupful of water, first brush
the head well, then wet a brush and apply it to
the head. Do this every day for a week, and
twice a week for a few times, and you will effec-
tually remove the dandruff.

ERUPTIONS on the Face. ——Dissolve an
ounce of borax in a quart of water, and apply
this with a fine sponge every evening before
going to bed. This will smooth the skin when
the eruptions do not proceed from an insect
working under the cuticle. Many persons’ faces
are disfigured by red eruptions caused by a small
creature working under the skin. A very ex-
cellent remedy is to take the flour of sulphur and
rub it on the face dry, after washing it in the
morning. Rub it well with the fingers, and then
wipe it off with a dry towel. There are many
who are not a little ashamed of their faces who
can be cured if they follow these directions.

E YELASHES, T 0 Length”. -- The mode

.. as. . A“ ufi-L‘viuruflb a» _;.._.aq..___ .

.u<....

12am . .J.

 

326

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

adopted by the beauties of the East to increase
the length and strength of their eyelashes is
simply to clip the split ends with a pair of scis-
sors about once a month. Mothers perform the
operation on their children, both male and female,
when they are mere infants, watching the op-
portunity whilst they sleep; the practice never
fails to produce the desired effect.

E YELASHES, T a [Vatican—The simplest
preparations for this purpose, are the juice of
eldenberries, burnt cork, and cloves burnt at the
candle. Another means is, to take the black of

1frankincense, rosin, and mastic. This black will
not come off with perspiration.

A stick of India ink is the best of all.

FLESH W ORM S.—These specks, when the
exist in any number, are a cause of muc
unsightliness. They are minute corks, if we may
use the term, of coagulated lymph, which close
the orifices of some of the pores or exhalent ves-
sels of the skin. On the skin immediately ad-
jacent to them being pressed with the finger
nails, these bits of coagulated lymph will come
from it in a vermicular form. They are vulgarly
called “flesh worms,” many persons fancying
them to be living creatures. These may be got
rid of and prevented from returning, b washing
with tepid water, by proper friction wit a towel,
and by the application of a little cold cream.
The longer these little piles are permitted to re-
main in the skin the more firmly they become
fixed; and after a time, when they lose their
moisture they are converted into long bony
spines as dense as bristles, and having much of
that character. They are known by the name of
s otted achne. With regard to local treatment,
t e following lotions are calculated to be service-
able :-—1. Distilled rose-water, 1 pint; sulphate
of zinc, 20 to 60 grains. Mix.— 2. Sulphate of
copper, 20 grains; rose-water, 4 ounces; water
12 ounces. Mix.— 3. Oil of sweet almonds, 1
ounce; fluid potash, I drachm. Shake well to-
gether, and then add rose-water, I ounce; pure
water, 6 ounces. Mix. The mode of using these
remedies is to rub the pimples for some minutes
with a. rough towel, and then dab them with the
lotion.—4. Wash the face twice a day with warm
water, and rub dry with a coarse towel. Then
with a soft towel rub in a lotion made of two
ounces of white brandy, one ounce of cologne,
and one half ounce of liquor potassa.

FRECKLES, Removal :yC—Freckles, so per-
sistently regular in their annual return, have
annoyed the fair sex from time immemorial; and
various means have been devised to eradicate
them, although thus far with no decidedly satis-
factory results. The innumerable remedies in
use for the removal of these vexatious intruders
are either simple and harmless washes, such as
parsley or horse-radish water, solutions of borax,
etc., or injurious nostrums, consisting principally
of lead and mercury salts.

If the exact cause of freckles were known, a
remedy for them might be found. A chemist in
Moravia, observing the bleaching effect of mer-
curial preparations, inferred that the growth of a
local parasitical fungus was the cause of the dis-
coloration of the skin, which extended and ripen-
edits spores in the warmer season. Knowing
that sulpho-carbolate of zinc is a deadly enemy
to all parasitic vegetation (itself not being other-
wise in'urious), he applied this salt for the pur-
pose o removing the freckles. The compound

 

consists of two parts of sulpho-carbolate of zinc,
twenty-five parts of distilled glycerine, twenty-
five parts of rose-water, and five parts of scented
alcohol, and is to be applied twice daily for from
half an hour to an hour, then washed off with
cold water. Protection against the sun by veil-
ing and other means is recommended, and in
addition, for persons of pale complexion, some
mild prepartion of iron.

FRECKLES, Ot/zzr Curtrfin—I. A very
simple and harmless remedy is equal arts of
pure glycerine and rose water, applie every
night, and allowed to dry. The following lotion
is harmless :—one drachm of sal—ammoniac, dis-
solved in a pint of spring water, add a quarter of
an ounce of eau de Cologne; apply it night and
morning—2. Take tincture of benzoin, 1 pint;
tincture of tolu, % pint; oil of rosemary %
ounce. Mix. One tea-spoonful of the tincture
to be put in half a gill of water, and with a towel
dipped in this rub well the face, night and mom-
ing.—3. Take an ounce of lemon juice, a quarter
of a drachm of powdered borax and a drachm bi
sugar. Mix them and let them stand till fit for
use. Then rub it on the freckles occasionally.
Or else take half a drachm of muriate of am-
monia, two drachms of lavender water. Apply
this with a sponge two or three times a day.—
4. Wash the skin frequently with aliniment com-
posed of equal parts of sweet oil, lime-water, and
ammonia. Distilled elder-flower water is also
an excellent application for removing freckles.
The skin should be bathed with it for five or ten
minutes, and washed afterward with clear water
night and morning. The honeywash, which is
simply honey dissolved in lukewarm water, and
used when cold, is another good lotion for
freckles.—5. (Balsam ofHoney.) Take fine pale
honey 4 ounces; glycerine 1 ounce. Mix by a
gentle heat; when cold add alcohol 1 ounce;
essence of ambergris 6 drops; citric acid 3
drachms. This is intended to remove discolora-
tions and freckles, as well as to improve the
general appearance of the skin.——- 6. Finally,
lemon juice alone is probably as good as any.
thing. And now, after all, if it were our case,
we should let cosmetics alone—unless abundant
exercise, fresh air, soap and water, and plain liv-
ing might be considered cosmetics.

GUMS, War]: for, (Eau de 3010!). —-Take
anise-seed, 80 parts; cloves, 20 parts; cinnamon,
20 parts; oil of peppermint, 10 parts; cochineal,
5 parts ; vanilla, I part; rectified spirits, 800
parts; rose water, 200 parts. Digest for about
a week and filter; then add of essence of amber,
I part. A few drops in a glass of water to rinse
the mouth with.

HAIR, T 113. —If the ladies will trust to our
science on the subject of hair, in the first place,
we can assure them, most confidently, that, so
far is it from being true that oils and pomatums
increase the lustre of the hair, their effect is to
diminish that polish which it naturally possesses;
while, whatever gloss they may give to hair
which is naturally dull, is false, and, like all
other falsities, disgusting. Absolute cleanliness,
by means of water alone, to commence, followed
by brushing in the direction of the hair itself in a
dry state, is the true method of giving to the hair
all the polish of which it is susceptible; and it is
the effect of oils of all kinds to disturb or injure
this; to sa nothing of the disgust and necessary
dirtiness o greasy hair. It is the effect of oils

 

TOILET.

327

 

also to prevent it from curling; and this object. is
most effectually obtained, if without artifictal
means, by curling it when wet, and suffering it
to dry in that state. And, as it ha pens that al-
most all hair has a tendency to cur in one direc-
tion rather than in another, it is useful to study
that tendency, so as to conform to it in the_arti-
ficial flexure given. As to artificial applications,
the whole of the so-called curling-fluids are mere
impositions; while one, which is really effectual,
and at the same time inoffensive, is a weak solu-
tion of isinglass, by which a very firm and per-
manent form can be given to the hair. The
hair should never be twisted, knotted, or pulled
contrary to its natural direction, if you would
avoid baldness and headache.

Should the scalp be obstinately dry and harsh,
it may be safely washed with a cold weak solu-
tion of green tea, or with spirits of Castile soap
containing a few grains of tannin. In cases of
this kind the following may be applied: alcohol
eight parts, water eight parts, spirits of harts-
horn one part. Cologne water may also be
used; but perhaps the best plan under these
circumstances, and especially if there be an ac-
cumulation of dandruff, is to have the head thor-
oughly shampooed, after the fashion of the bar-
bers, repeating the operation at intervals until
the scalp is perfectly clean, and is stimulated
into vigorous, healthful action. Nothing but
good can be derived from a due attention to
cleansing the hair. Of course, an immoderate
use of water is not beneficial. Once a week is
perhaps desirable, but this will depend upon the
individual.

HAIR, A rt qumslu'ng.—As a general rule,
the head cannot be too much brushed, any more
than the horse’s coat can be too much groomed.
The groom knows full well that by plenty of
combing and brushing he can not only produce
a fine coat, but add very considerably to the
healthy condition of the animal. And so it is
with man, the more the head be brushed, the
more healthy will be the skin, the more healthy
its function, namely the production and mainten-
ance of the hair, and, by a reflected power, the
more healthy the individual. I find that hair
dressers are divided on the subject of brushing,
one arty recommending soft brushes and. small
brus ling; the other, hard brushes and abundant
brushing. As usual, in all these differences,
both are right as respects a particular theory;
but the brushers have the best of the argument.
One has set the question for ever at rest, by the
announcement of the following paradox: “You
cannot brush the head too much, nor the hair
too little.”

He is right: you cannot brush the head too
much, but as, b clumsy brushing with hard
brushes, you mig t over stretch or tear the hair,
and so destroy its beauty, be gentle in your sur-
face brushing; for here you cannot, in combina-
tion with the deep brushing, brush too little.
The fact is, there are two purposes to be attained
by brushing: firstly, to give health to the skin
of the head, and strength and vigor to the hair;
for which end you cannot brush too much, or use
brushes too penetrating or too hard, so long as
the skin is not injured; secondly, to smooth the
hair, or perhaps go the length of freeing it from
dust, for whic object your brushes may be as
you lease, and your hand as light as agreeable.
So t t, in truth, each according to the purpose

 

he has in view, may be perfectly right; but,
nevertheless, at perfect variance with his brother.

HAIR BRUSHES, To Clean. ——Fill a pan
with warm water, and dissolve in it a quarter of
an ounce of soda to half a gallon of water. Comb
out the loose hairs; take one brush at a time by
the handle and dip it several times in the water
without wetting the back; then rinse in cold wa-
ter, and put near the fire or in the open air to
dry. Never use soap in washing hair brushes,
or allow the water to be more than lukewarm,
as hot water will soften the bristles and melt the
glue in the back, and also turn ivory backs
yellow.

HAIR, Bandolz'ne fan—t. Mucilage of clean
picked Irish moss, made by boiling a quarter of
an ounce of the moss in one quart of water until
sufficiently thick, rectified spirit in the proportion
of a teaspoonful to each bottle, to prevent its be-
ing mildewed. The uantity of spirit varies ac.
cording to the time 1t requires to be kept.~—2.
Gum tragacanth, one drachm and a half; water,
half a pint; proof spirit (made by mixing equal
parts of rectified spirit and water), three ounces;
otto of roses, ten drops; soak for twenty-four
hours and strain.-—3. This mixture is best made
a little at a time. Pour a tablespoonful of boil-
ing water on a dozen quince seeds, and repeat
when fresh is required.

HAIR OF CHILDREN — It is a great
mistake to plait the hair of children under eleven
or twelve years of age. The process of plaiting
more or less strains the hairs in their roots by
pulling them tight; tends to deprive them of their
requisite supply of nutriment, and checks their
growth. The hair of girls should be out rather
short, and allowed to curl freely. When they
are about eleven or twelve; the hair should be
twisted into a coil, not too tight, nor tied at
the end with thin thread, but with a piece of
ribbon.

HAIR, Cleaning flux—From the too frequent
use of oils in the hair, many ladies destroy the
tone and color of their tresses. The Hindoos
have a way of remedying this. They take a
hand basin filled with cold water, and have ready
a small quantity of pea-flour. The hair is in the
first place submitted to the operation of being
washed in cold water, a handful of the pea-flour
is then applied to the head and rubbed into the
hair for ten minutes at least, the servant adding
fresh water at short intervals, until it becomes a
perfect lather. The whole head is then washed
quite clean with copious supplies of the aqueous
fluid, combed, and afterwards rubbed dry b
means of coarse towels. The hard and so t
brush is then resorted to, when the hair will be
found to be wholly free from all encumbering
oils and other impurities, and assume a glossy
softness, equal to the most delicate silk. This
process tends to preserve the tone and natural
color of the hair, which is so frequently destroyed
by the too constant use of caustic cosmetics.

HAIR CURLIIVG.—- I. Curling fluids are
prepared in a variety of ways; the best, however,
we are acquainted with is a mixture of olive oil
and beeswax. Take apiece of white beeswax,
about the size of the kernel of the common nut,
melt it in about an. ounce of olive oil, and then
add a few drops of bergamot. — 2. Into a pint
of pure olive oil melt slowly a piece of bees-
wax about the size of a walnut; after which
add a. quarter of an ounce of oil of rose:

328

mary and a quarter of an ounce of oil of ori-
ganum.—-3. Take carbonate of potash (dry), I
drachm; cochineal, powdered, y, drachm; water
of ammonia, spirit of rose, of each I fluid ounce;
glycerine, y ounce ; alcohol, 1% ounce; distill-
ed water, I ounces. Digest with agitation for
a week, and then decant or filter. The hair is
moistenedwith it and then loosely adjusted. The
effect occurs as it dries. —4. Take borax, two
ounces; gum arabic, one drachm; and hot water
(not boiling), one quart; stir, and as soon as the
ingredients are dissolved add three tablespoon-
fuls of strong spirits of camphor. On retiring to
rest wet the hair with the above liquid, and roll
it in twists of paper as usual.—5. At any time
you may make your hair curl the more easily by
rubbing it with the beaten yolk of an egg, wash-
ed off afterwards with clear water, and then
putting on a little pomatum before you put up
your curls. It is well always to go through this
process when you change to curls, after having
worn your hair plain. ‘

HA 11?, Drawing: fox—I. A cheap and very
good dressing is made by dissolving four ounces
of perfectly pure, dense glycerine in twelve
ounces of rose water. Glycerine evaporates only
at high temperatures; and therefore under its
influence the hair is retained in a moist condition
for a long time.——2. Olive oil, 2 pints; Otto of
roses, I drachm; oil of rosemary, I drachm.
Mix. It may be colored red by steeping a little
alkanet root in the oil (with heat) before scent-
ing it. It strengthens and beautifies the hair.—
3. Bay rum, 2 pints; alcohol, I pint; castor oil,
I ounce; carb. ammonia, 1/; ounce; tincture of
cantharides, I ounce. Mix them well. This
compound will promote the growth of the hair
and prevent it from falling out.———4. Take almond
oil, % of a pound; White wax, % an ounce;
clarified lard, 3 ounces; liquid ammonia, a %
fluid ounce; otto of lavender, and cloves, of
each I drachm. Place the oil, wax, and lard in
a jar, which set in boiling water; when the wax
is melted, allow the grease to cool till nearly
ready to set, then stir in the ammonia and the
perfume, and put into small jars for use. Never
use a hard brush, nor comb the hair too much.
Apply the pomade at night only.—5. (Pomade.)
Dissolve thoroughly, over a slow fire, 2 ounces
of white wax and y, ounce palm oil, with a flask
of the best olive oil. Stir it till nearly cold ; then
add I ounce of castor oil, and about three penny-
worth of bergamot, or any other perfume you

lease.

HAIR DYES. — I. Take 3 parts of litharge
and 2 parts of quicklime, both in an impalpable
powder and mix them carefully. When used, a
portion of the powder is mixed with hot water or
milk, and applied to the hair, the part being after-
wards enveloped in oil-skin for 4 or 5 hours.

2. Litharge, 2 parts ; slaked lime, 1 part;
chalk, 2 parts ; all finely powdered, and accurately
mixed. When required for use, mix the powder
with warm water, and dip a brush in the mix-
ture, and rub the hair well with it. After 2
hours let the hair be washed.

3. Mix 5 drachms of fresh slaked lime with 1%
ounces of water ; strain through silk, and bottle.
Dissolve 5 drachms of acetate of lead in sufficient
water, and add enough slaked lime to saturate
the acetate acid (a drachm), let it settle, pour off
the supernatant liquor, wash the precipitate with
water and add it to the milk of lime in the bottle.

 

DI CT I ONAR Y OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

4. Sifted lime, I6 ounces; white lead, 2 ounces;
litharge, in fine powder, I ounce; mix well to-
gether and keep dry. To dye black, mix a little
of the powder with water to the consistence of
cream. To dye brown, use milk, instead of wa-
ter. Apply with a small sponge to every hair.

5. Litharge, 4% ounces; quicklime, 34 ounce;
reduce to an impalpable powder, and pass it
through a sieve. Keep it in a close bottle.
When used, wash the hair with soap and water ;
then with tepid water; wipe it dry and comb‘
with a clean comb. Mix the dye in a saucer,
with hot water, to the consistence of cream, and
apply it to the hair, beginning at the roots. Place
over it four folds of brown paper, saturated with
hot water, and drained till cool ; and over this an
oil-skin cap and a nightcap. Let it remain 4 to
8 hours, according to shade desired. When re-
rdnoved, oil the hair, but do not wet it for 3 or 4

ays.

6. Levigated litharge, II ounces; powdered
quicklime,.75 ounces; hair powder, 37 ounces.
Mix. When used, a portion of the powder is
mixed with warm water in a saucer, and applied
to the hair with the fingers, taking care to cover
the hair to the roots. Cover the whole with a
sheet of cotton wadding moistened with water,
and this with a folded cloth. Let it remain on for
3 hours, or, better, for the night.

7. Washing the hair with the juice of green
yylalrliuts, diluted with olive oil, will dye the hair

ac r.

8. (Almjii’n) Infuse black tea, two ounces, in
one gallon of boiling water; strain and add three
ounces of glycerine, half an ounce of tincture of
cantharides, and one quart of bay rum. Digest
this mixture for a couple of days, and perfume
with essence of rose or bergamot, or any other
favorite essence to suit the taste.

The following dyes are composed of solutions
of nitrate of silver, and in applying them it should
be remembered that they stain the skin, as well
as the hair. There is, therefore, more difficulty
in applying them; they are, however, thought to
give a better color to the hair than the ones we
have given above :

I. Nitrate of silver, 11 drachms; nitric acid, I
drachm; distilled water, I pint; sap green, 3
drachms; gum arabic, I drachm. Mix.

2. Nitric acid, I drachm; nitrate of silver, 10
drachms; sap green, 9 drachms; mucilage, 5
drachms ; distilled water, 37% fluid ounces.

3. Silver, 2 drachms ; iron filings, 4 drachms;
nitric acid, I ounce; distilled water, 8 ounces;
digest and decant the clear solution. To be care-
fully applied with a close brush.

4. Sulphuretum of potassae, 2drachms; caustic
of potassae, I drachm ; nitrate of silver, crystal.
lized, I drachm; tincture of galla, I ounce.

HAIR, Goldm.—Golden hair fluids have re-
cently been the subject of continuedinvestigation
by an English chemist, who, after a careful ana-
lysis, asserts that they are composed of dilute
nitric and muriatic acids, with traces, in some
instanCes, of sulphuric acid. Though the pro-
prietors of these fluids announce that the prepa-
rations are harmless, yet instances have been re-I
ported of ladies being injured by drops of the‘

air dye falling on their shoulders. The agent to'
effect the change in the color of the hair is the
nitric acid, aided by the chlorine evolved by the
decomposition of the muriatic acid.

HAIR, Gwyn—It has been ~recently assert-

 

TOILE 7:

ed that an undue proportion of lime in the System
is the cause of premature gray hair, and we are
advised to avoid hard water, either for drinking
ure or when converted into tea, coffee, or soup,
Because hard water is strongly impregnated with
lime. Hard water may be softened by boiling
it: let it become cold, and then use it as a bever-
age. It is also stated that a liquid that will color
the human hair black, and not stain the skin,
may be made by taking one part of ba rum,
three parts of olive oil, and one part 0 good
brandy, by measure. The hair must be washed
with the mixture every morning, and in a short
time the use of it will make the hair a beautiful
black, without injuring it in the least. The
articles must be of the best qualit , mixed in a
bottle, and always shaken well be ore being ap-
lied.
p HAIR, To prevent turning Gwyn—A good
remedy for the hair turning gray and falling off
is the following: Distill two pounds of honey, a
handful of rosemary, and twelve handfuls of the
tendrils of grape vine, infused in a gallon of new
milk; about two quarts of water will be obtained
from this. which apply to the hair frequently.
HAIR, Lars ryC—One of the most unpleasant
consequences of early neglect is the constant
falling off of hair. W'e do not allude to the loss
of the hair dependent on age; that is anatural
consequence of our infirmity, and cannot be re-
garded in the light of a disorder ; but instances
in which the hair has become thin, even to dis-
figurement, in early life, are far from being un
common, and, if neglected, must terminate in
confirmed baldness. This excessive loosening of

the hair, however, is far from being so irrepara.

able as is generally imagined, and if proper treat-
ment be adopted, the hair will grow fresh, and
assume all its original vigor and strength.

The head must be bathed daily with cold water,
into which a little eau de cologne has been pour-
ed, and the scalp should then be brushed until
the skin becomes red, and a warm glow is pro-
duced. Cold water is one of the finest cosmet-
ics known, and has this advantage, that while in
almost every instance it improves the hair, in no
case can it do injury.

HAIR, T o Restore—Onions rubbed frequent-
ly on the part requiring it. The stimulating
powers of this vegetable are of service in restor-
ing the tone of the skin, and assisting the capil-
lary vessels in sending forth new hair; but it is
not infallible. Should it succeed, however, the
growth of these new hairs may be assisted by the
oil of myrtle berries, the repute of which, per-
haps, is greater than its real efficacy.

HAIR lVASHES.—-I. Take glycerine, 20z.;
tincture of myrrh. 1 oz. ; cologne, Ioz.; tincture
of cantharides, % oz. ; distilled water, 24
ounces. Mix.—2. Red wine, 1 pound; salt, I
drachm; sulphate of iron, 2 drachms; boil for a
few minutes, and add common verdigris, I
drachm; leave it on the fire 2 minutes; withdraw
it, and add 2 drachms of powdered nutgall. Rub
the hair with the liquid; in a few minutes dry it
with a warm cloth, and afterwards wash with
water.—3. Take elder water, % a pint; sherry
wine, % a pint; tincture of arnica, % an ounce ;
alcoholic ammonia, I drachm—if this last-named
ingredient is old, and has lost its strength, then
two drachms instead of one may be employed.
The whole of these are to be mixed in-a lotion
bottle, and applied to the head every night with

 

329

a sponge. Wash the head with warm water
twice a week. Soft brushes only must be used
during the growth of the young hair.

HAIR, Superfiuoun— Any remedy is doubt-
ful; many of those commonly used are danger-
ous. The safest plan is as follows :—The hairs
should be perseveringly plucked up by the roots,
and the skin, having been washed twice a-day
with warm soft water, without soap, should be
treated with the following wash, commonly call-
ed milk of roses. Beat four ounces of sweet
almonds in a mortar, and add half an ounce of
white sugar during the process ; reduce the
whole to a paste by pounding; then add, in
small quantities at a time, eight ounces of rose
water. The emulsion thus formed, should be
strained through a fine cloth, and the residue
again pounded, while the strained fluid should
be bottled in a large stopped vial. To the pasty
mass in the mortar add half an ounce of sugar,
and eight ounces of rose water, and strain again.
This process must be repeated three times. To
the thirty-two ounces of fluid, add twenty grains
of the bichloride of mercury, dissolved in two
ounces of alcohol, and shake the mixture for five
minutes. The fluid should be applied with a
towel, immediately after washing, and the skin
gently rubbed with a dry cloth till perfectly dry.
Wilson, in his work on Healthy Skin, writes as
follows :-—Substances are sold by the perfumers
called depilatories, which are represented as hav-
ing the power of removing hair. But the hair is
not destroyed by these means; the root and that
part of the shaft implanted within the skin still
remain, and are ready to shoot up with increased
vigor as soon as the depilatory is withdrawn.
The effect of the depilatory is the same, in this
respect, as that of a razor, and the latter is,
unquestionably, the better remedy. It must not,
however, be imagined that depilatories are nega-
tive remedies, and that, if they do no permanent
good, they are, at least, harmless ; that is not
the fact; they are violent irritants, and require to
be used with the utmost caution. After all, the
safest depilatory is a pair of tweezers and pa-
tience.

HA NDS.— Dirty and coarse hands are no
less the marks of slothfulness and low breeding,
than clean and delicate hands are those of clean-
liness and gentility. To promote the softness
and whiteness of the skin, mild emollient soaps,
or those abounding in oil, should alone be used,
by which means chaps and chilblains will gene-
rally be avoided. The coarse, strong kinds of
soap, or those abounding in alkali, should for a
like reason he rejected, as they tend to render
the skin rough, dry, and brittle. The immersion
of the hands in alkaline lyes, or strongly acidu-
lated water, has a like effect. When the hands
are very dirty, a little good soft soap may be
used with warm water, which will rapidly re-
move oily and greasy matter. Fruit and ink '
stains may be taken out by immersing the hands
in water slightly acidulated with oxalic acid, or a
few drops of oil of vitriol, or to which a little
pearlash or chloride of lime has been added,
observing afterwards to well rinse them in clean
water, and not to touch them with soap for some
hours, as any alkaline matter will bring back the
stains, after their apparent removal by all the
above substances, except the last.

HANDS, Blistering ry‘. —The best remedy
against the blistering of the hands by rowing or

 

33°

fishing, or of the feet by walking, is to light a
tallow cand e; let the tallow drop into water (to

urify it from salt), then mix the tallow with a
ittle brandy, or any other strong spirit, and rub
it well into the hands or feet.

HANDS, to Beautifin—I. Rub together in
a mortar four parts by weight of yelk of egg
with five parts of glycerine. N 0 better ointment
for the hands can be procured. The compound
may be preserved for years.—-—- 2. Take three
drachms of camphor gum, three do. white bees-
wax, three do. spermaceti, two ounces of olive
oil—put them together in a cup upon the stove
where they will melt slowly and form a white
ointment in a few minutes. If the hands be af-
fected, anoint them on going to bed, and put on
a pair of gloves.—3. Take two ounces of Venice
soap, and dissolve it in two ounces of lemon
juice. Add one ounce of the oil of bitter a1-
monds, and alike quantity of oil of tartar. Mix the
whole, and stir it well until it has acquired the con-

sistence of soap; and use it as such for the hands. -

The paste of sweet almonds, which contains an
oil fit for keeping the skin soft and elastic, and
removing indurations, may be beneficially ap-
plied to the hands and arms.

HANDS, Chap ed.——I. Glycerine and rose-
water, of each yzzjoz. ; mix, and rub it on the
back part of the hands night and morning. They
will require very few applications before they are
well.—2. (Glycerin: Lotion.) This useful and
pleasant application for chapped hands is pre-
pared by simmering one drachm of quince seed
1n half a pint of boiling water for ten minutes,
straining the mucilage, and mixing one part with
one part of inodorous glycerine and six parts of
orange flower or rose water. A little borax may
be added if desirable.-—3. Melt tallow, and add
a little powdered camphor and glycerine, with a
few drops of oil of almonds to scent. Pour in
molds and cool.—4. Put together equal weights
of fresh, unsalted butter, mutton tallow, bees-
wax, and stoned raisins; simmer until the raisins
are done to a crisp, but not burned. Strain and
pour into cups to cool. Rub the hands thor-
oughly with it, and though they will smart at
first, they will soon feel comfortable and heal
puicklys—s. The easiest and simplest remedy is

ound in every store-room. Take common
starch, and grind with a knife until it is reduced
to the smoothest powder. Take a clean tin box
and fill it with starch thus prepared, so as to
have it continually at hand for use. Then, every
time that the hands are taken from the suds, or
dish-water, rinse them thoroughly in clear water,
wipe them, and while they are yet damp, rub a
pinch of the starch thoroughly over them, cover-
ing the whole surface. The effect is magical.
The rough, smarting skin is cooled, soothed and
healed, bringing and insuring the greatest degree
of comfort and freedom from this, by no means
insignificant trial. _

HANDS, Redness and Bumingofl—Redness
and burning of the hands is caused by defective
circulation. The best remedy is to protect them
as much as possible from the cold when out of
doors, by using a muff or by wearing two pairs
of gloves, which are much warmer than one pair
lined. To prevent the burning sensation, hold
the hands for a few minutes in very warm water
after coming in, as that generally produces a
feeling of coolness afterwards, whereas cold wa-
ter causes a glow after it has been used.

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVER Y-DA Y W4NTS.

HAZVDS, To Soften.—After cleansing the
hands with soap, rub them well with oatmeal
while wet.

HANDS, To Remove Slain: frown—Dam
the hands first in water, then rub them wit
tartaric acid, or salt of lemons, as you would with
soap; rinse them and rub them dry. Tartaric
acid, or salt of lemons will quickly remove stains
from white muslin or linens. Put less than half
a teaspoonful of salt or acid into a table-spoonful
of water; wet the stain with it, and lay it in the
sun for an hour; wet it once or twice with cold
water during the time; if this does not quite re-
move it, repeat the acid water, and lay It in the
sun.

HAZVDS, To W/zz'ten.—I. Stir a % of a
pound of Castile soap, and place it in a Jar near
the fire, pour over it % a pint of alcohol; when
the soap is dissolved and mixed with the spirit,
add I ounce of glycerine, the same of oil of a1-
monds, with a few drops of essence of violets, or
otto of roses, then pour it into molds to cool for
use.—2. A wine-glassful of eau de cologne, and
one of lemon juice, two cakes of brown \Vindsor
soap, mixed well together, when hard, will form
an excellent substance.

HEAD, Srmf 2'72.-—-A simple and effectual
remedy. Into a pint of water drop a lump of
fresh quick lime, the size of a walnut; let it stand
all night, then pour the water off clear from the
sediment or deposit, add a quarter of a pint of
the best vinegar, and wash the head with the
mixture. Perfectly harmless; only wet the roots
of the hair.

LIPS, Chapped.—~Take two ounces of white
wax, one ounce of spermaceti, four ounces of oil
of almonds, two ounces honey, quarter of an
ounce of essence of bergamot, or any other scent.
Melt the wax and spermaceti; then add the
honey, and melt all together, and when hot, add
the almond oil by degrees, stirring it till cold.—
2. Take oil of almonds, 3 ounces; spermaceti,
% ounce; virgin rice, % an ounce. Melt these
together, over a slow fire, mixing with them a
little powder of alkanet root, to color it. Keep
stirring till cold, and then add a few drops of the
oil of rhodium.—3. Take oil of almonds, sperm-
aceti, white wax, and white sugar candy, equal
parts. These form a good white lip salve.

MOTH PA TCHES, To Removes-“lash the
patches with solution of common bicarbonate of
soda and water several times during the day for
two days, or until the patches are removed,
which will usually be in forty-eight hours. After
the process wash with some nice toilet soap, and
the skin will be left nice, smooth and clear of

atches. '

NAILS ( T/ze), Care oft—The nails should be
kept clean by the daily use of the nail brush and
soap and water. After wiping the hands, but
while they are still soft from the action of the
water, gently push back the skin which is apt to
grow over the nails, which will not only preserve
them neatly rounded, but will prevent the skin
cracking around their roots, (nail springs), and
becoming sore. The points of the nails should
be pared at least once a week; biting them
should be avoided.

NAILS, Biting thew-This is a habit that
should be immediately corrected in children, as,
if persisted in for any length of time, it perma~
nently deforms the nails. Dipping the finger-
ends in some bitter tincture will generally pre-

TOILET.

vent cl’lildren from putting them to the mouth;
but if this fails, as it sometimes will, each finger-
end ought to be encased in a stall until the pro-
pensity. is eradicated.

NAILS, To W/zilen. ——The best wash for
whitenng the nails is two drachms of diluted
sul huric acid, one drachm of tincture of myrrh,
ad ed 'to four ounces of spring water; first
cleanse the hands, and then apply the wash.

‘ NOSES (Large), T a Maize Small.—Dr. Cid,
an inventive surgeon of Paris, noticed that elder-
‘ly people, who for a long time have worn eye-
glasses supported on the nose by a spring, are
apt to have this organ long and thin. This-he
attributes to the compression which the spring
exerts on the arteries by which the nose is nour-
ished. The idea occurred to him that the hint
could be made useful. Not long afterward, a
oung lady of fifteen years consulted him, to see
if he could restore to moderate dimensions her
nose, which was large, fleshy, and unsightly.
The trait, he found, was hereditary in her family,
as her mother and sister were similarly afflicted.
This was discouraging, as hereditary peculiarities
are particularly obstinate. But the doctor deter-
mined to try his method; he took exact measure-
ments, and had constructed for her a “lunette
pince-nez”—a spring and pad for compressing
the artery—~which she wore at night and when-
ever she conveniently could in the daytime. In
three weeks a consolatory diminution was evident,
and in three months the young lady was quite
satisfied with the improvement in her features.

PIMPLES.——Several different forms of erup~
tions are popularly termed pimples, though yary-
ing considerably in their character. As this ar-
ticle is designed for general reading, we shall
adopt the opular appellation. Dry pimples
consist of little elevations sometimes showing
themselves on the surface, at other times per.
ceptible only to the touch. They usually itch
considerably, and when scratched to allay the feel-
ing, are liable to be converted into disagreeable
sores. We know of no better remedy for these
than a solution of borax in warm water, after-
ward allowed to cool. This applied plentifully
as a wash or lotion will soothe the irritation.

Mattery pimples are distinguished from the
above by containing an opaque, yellowish fluid
(pus). The little bubbles attain their full size in
the course of two or three days, and either dry
up without breaking or more frequently burst
and then dry, forming a hard crust. For these
are recommended a lotion composed of alcohol
one part and five or six parts of soft water,
to which a very little distilled vinegar is added.
The crusts may be removed b warm water.

Watery pimples consist 0 little vesicles or
bladders filled with transparent liquid. N 0 local
treatment is usually available.

In the treatment of pimples, attention should
be directed to improving the general health, pro-
moting activity of the skin by exercise, frequent
bathing of the whole body, and the avoidance of

astry, rich gravies and similar articles of food.
gimples generally afflict persons of sedentary
habits, especially those confined in close, impure
atmospheres. Where the skin becomes torpid,
the reat amount of waste usually passing off in
the orm of insensible perspiration gathers at the
openin s of the pores and clogs them. If bathing
is not requent this layer of dead matter forms a
coating through which the insensible perspiration

 

 

33I

(or wastes usually passed from the skin) are pre-
vented an egress and collect in pimples. It is
probable that the reason of the face being most
frequently the part disfigured, is because it is.
more frequently washed, the waste matter seeks
an outlet wherever the skin can act, and so too
much accumulates here to be thrown off easily.
The use of warm water for daily ablutions pro-
motes this attraction of waste matter to the spot.
By washing the face in very cold water and bath-
ing the body frequently in warm water the order
is reversed, and the excess of the face is drawn
to other parts and, diffused over a large surface,
passes off naturally and without any marked
Signs.
Pim les frequently indicate a debilitated state
of the blood, are common in enervated systems.
Strengthen the system, promote the purification
of the blood b breathing fresh air, and aid the
throwing off ofy waste matters by frequent bath-
ing and gentle friction of the body. The bowels
should be kept regular by proper food, such as
fruits, vegetables, and particularly oat-meal.
The lotions, beautifiers, etc. , usually sold con-
sist of borax water, glycerine in water, with a
little perfume, or the deadly preparations from
poisonous substances. One of the “remedies"
advertised was found to contain corrosive subli-
mate. Camphor is frequently prescribed by news~
papers, and forms an ingredient in some of the
proprietary preparations. It does not appear to '
do any good, and is liable if used to an consider-
erable extent to exert a paralyzing in uence—in
some cases even to the extent of total loss of power
and sensation in the parts to which it is applied.
It is also liable to drive in eruptions, causing in-
ternal trouble. Alum a plied to the face occa-
sionally, especially after shaving, has been found
in some cases very useful in checking pimples.
Smashing pimples, or squeezing out “flesh
worms,” only tends to an increase of the trouble.
If a large pimple seems inclined to form, the best
way is to let it come fully to a head, then prick
it with a needle and gently press out the matter,
breaking the skin as little as possible. This will
help to clear the face. Borax water is a simple,
harmless and often beneficial application to pim-
ples and inflamed or irritated. skin, and in cases
of chaps, sunburn, or harshness of the skin.
SKIIV, T o W/zz'im and Sqftm.—L Takewhite
wax (pure), I ounce; spermaceti, 2 ounces; oil
of almonds, 9 ounces; melt together by a mo-
derate heat in a glazed earthenware vessel, and
add glycerine (best), 3 ounces ; balsam of Peru,
% ounce. The mixture is to be stirred until
nearly cold.—2. Take a X of a fluid ounce, each,
of tincture of tolu, tincture of benzola, and tinc-
ture of balsam of Peru, and gradually mix with
them a % of a pint of distilled elder water, when
a milky emulsive fluid will be the result. Then
have, ready melted in a basin, % an ounce of
virgin wax and spermaceti, together with a % of
a pound of almond oil—this is best done by pla-
cing the ingredients in a basin set on to a small
saucepan of boiling water, thus to melt the ma-
terials by steam. Finally, the tincture and wa-
ter mixture is to be gradually poured into the
basin of oil, sperm, etc., beating the mixture ra-
pidly with a fork. so as to insure perfect blend-
ing of all the ingredients. When finished, the
unguent assumes a beautiful snow-white creamy
consistency, which finally sets when quite cold.
To whiten the hands, rub them over with the

 

 

 

 

 

332

DICTIONARY OFEVEIB Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

sultana unguent on going to bed, and sleep in an
old pair of kid gloves. To prevent wrinkles and
preserve the skin, apply the unguent at night,
washing it off in the morning with cold cream
soap. There is scarcely a wound, bruise, or skin-
blotch but what it may be applied to with “safe-
ty and with succor.”

SUNB URZV and TA 1V. — I. Take two
drachms of borax, one drachm of Roman alum,
one drachm of camphor, half an ounce of sugar-
candy, and a pound of ox-gall. Mix, and stir
well for ten minutes or so, and repeat this stir-
ring three or four times a day for a fortnight, till
it appears clear and transparent. train through
blotting paper, and bottle up for use.—2. Milk
of almonds made thus: Take of blanched bitter
almonds half an ounce, soft water half a pint;
make an emulsion by beating the almonds and
water together, strain through a muslin cloth,
and it is made.—3. A preparation composed of
equal parts of olive oil and lime water is also an
excellent remedy for sunburn.

2V, T 0 Remove. —Tan may be removed
from the face by mixing magnesia in soft water
to the consistency of paste, which should then be
spread on the face and allowed to remain a min-
ute or two. Then wash off with castile soap
suds, and rinse with soft water.

E TJY, Care off—The mouth has a tem~
perature of ninety-eight degrees, warmer than is
ever experienced in the shade in the latitude of
New England. It is‘ well known that if beef,
for example, be exposed in the shade during the
warmest of our summer days, it will very soon
begin to decompose. If we eat beef for dinner,
the particles invariably find their way into the
spaces between the teeth. Now if these parti-
c es of beef are not removed, they will frequently
remain till they are softened by decomposition.
In most mouths this process of decomposition is
in constant progress. Ought we to be surprised
that the gums and teeth against which these de—
composing or putrefying masses lie should be-
come subjects of disease P

How shall our teeth be preserved? The ans-
wer is very simple—keep them clean! How shall
they be kept clean? Answer: by a tooth-pick,
rinsing with water, and the daily use of a brush.

The tooth-pick should be a quill, not because
the metallic picks injure the enamel, but because
the quill pick is so flexible it fits into all the ir-
regularities between the teeth.

Always after using the tooth-pick the mouth
should be thoroughly rinsed. If warm water
be not at hand, cold may be used, although the
warm is much better. Closing the lips, with a
motion familiar to all, everything'may be thor-
oughly rinsed from the mouth.

Every morning (on rising) and every evening
(on gorng to bed) the tooth-brush should be
used, and the teeth, both outside and inside,
thoroughly brushed.

Much has been said, pro and con, upon the
use of soap with the tooth-brush. My own ex-
perience and the experience of members of my
family is highly favorable to the regular morn-
ing and evening use of soap. Castile or other
good soap will answer this purpose. (Whatever
is good for the hands and face is good for the
teeth.) The slightly unpleasant taste which soap
has when we begin to use it will soon be un-
noticed.

TEE TIJ, T o BeautW.—-Dissolve two ounces

 

of borax in three pints of boiling water, and be.
fore it is cold add one teaspoonful of the spirits
of camphor, and bottle for use. A tablespoon-
ful of this mixture, with an equal quantity of
tepid water, and applied daily with a soft brush,
preserves and beautifies the teeth, extirpates all
tartarous adhesion, arrests decay, induces a.
healthy action of the gums, and makes the teeth
pearly white.

TEE T H (Loose), To Fasten.—To fasten loose
teeth and strengthen the gums: Dissolve an
ounce of myrrh as much as possible in a pint of
port wine, and the same quantity of oil of al-
monds; wash the mouth with this fluid every
mornin .

TEETH and GUMS, War/z fim—The teeth
should be washed night and morning, a mode.
rately small and soft brush being used; after the
morning ablution pour on a second tooth-brush,
slightly damped, a little of the following lotion.
Carbolic acid, 20 drops; spirit of wine, 2 drachms;

‘ distilled water, 6 ounces. After using this lotion

for a short time the gums become firmer and
less tender, and impurity of the breath (which is
most commonly caused by bad teeth) will be re-
moved. It is a great mistake to use hard tooth-
brushes, or to brush the .teeth until the gums

ee .

TOOTH P0 WDERS.—Many persons, while
laudably attentive to the preservation of their
teeth, do them hurt by too much officiousness.
They daily apply to them some dentifrice pow-
der, which they rub so hard as not only to injure
the enamel by excessive friction, but to hurt the
gums even more than by the abuse of the tooth-
pick. The quality of some of the dentifrice
powders advertised in newspapers is extremely
suspicious, and there is reason to think that they
are not altogether free from a corrosive ingre-
dient. One of the safest and best compositions
for the purpose is a mixture of two parts of pre-
pared chalk, one of Peruvian bark, and one of
hard soap, all finely powdered, which is calcula-
ted not only to clean the teeth without hurting
them, but to preserve the firmness of the gums.

Besides the advantage of sound teeth for their
use in mastication, a proper attention to their
treatment conduces not a little to the sweetness
of the breath. This is, indeed, often affected by
other causes existing in the lungs, the stomach,
and sometimes even in the bowels, but a rotten
state of . the teeth, both from the putrid smell
emitted by,,_carious bones and the impurities lod-
ged in their cavities, never fails of aggravating
an unpleasant breath wherever there is a ten-
dency of that kind. '

TOILET, T/ze. —In the first requisite, v12.,
that of dress, we may say, health and comfort
first, ornament next. The dress should be plain,
neat, clean, loose, and rather light than heavy.
It should be plain and neat, because these are
the elements of true beauty; and because God
clothed our first parents in simple skins, .thus
showing the great design of dress to be utility,
and not ornament. Dress should be clean be-
cause it is demanded by decency and good taste;
it should be loose and light so as to avoid all opa
pression and restraint, so that every muscle may
have the most perfect freedom of motion, while
mind and body are equally at ease.

TOILET VINE GAR—Half a pint of Bor-
deaux, or of the best white wine vinegar; half a
pintof pale rum; essence of bergamot, rosemary,

 

 

 

D

WARDROBE. 3 3 3

 

and marjoram, a drachm each; and one pint
of rose or elder flower water. Mix the perfumes
with the spirit, then add the vinegar, and lastly,
the rose water. If not perfectly bright it may be
strained through blotting paper.

WAR T5, T0 Ramona—4. Pare the hard and
dried skin from their tops, and then touch them
with the smallest drop of strong acetic acid, tak-
ing care that the acid does not run off the wart

. upon the neighboring skin, for if it do, it Will
occasion inflammation and much pain. If this
practice be continued once or twice daily, with
regularity, paring the surface of the wart occasion-
ally, when it gets hard and dry, the wart may be

 

soon effectually cured—2. A mixture of two
parts of nitric acid to one of muriatic acid is a
good remedy for warts. It should be applied to
the warts With a small brush from a broom, and
care must be taken not to get acid on the flesh,
as it will make a sore. Saleratus will counteract
the action of the acid.

WHISKERS, To make Grow. —Shave the
beard at least three times a week, and use the
following as a stimulant: cologne, 1 ounce; alco-
hol, I pint; castor oil, % pint; oil of cloves, 20
drops; oil of bergamot, 20 drops; tincture of
cantharides, 2 ounces.

WARDROBE

BALlebr Scourz'ng Cloths, elm—I. Fuller’s
earth, 2 lbs.; soap, I 1b.; turpentine, 2 02.; ox
gall enough to make a paste—2. Fuller’s earth,
whiting, and pipe clay, equal parts, ox gall
enough to make a paste. These are used to re-
move grease from c 0th, or stains from clothes.

CLOTHING, Hint: Maui—All our garments
should be soft and pliable, and of such a shape
as to be comfortable to the wearer. They should
not be warmer than is requisite to preserve the
body in a proper temperature. The clothing
worn next the skin should be made of substances
easily cleaned. Our dress should be adapted to
the age and constitution of the individual. Young
and robust persons require a smaller quantity
than those who are delicate or advanced in years.
A variety is requisite to suit the difference of
temperature in summer and winter. The tem-
perature varies so often and so suddenly during
the first five months of the year, that no great
change in the character of our clothing should be
made till May or June. Light colored clothes
are cooler in summer, because they reflect a por-
tion of the sun’s rays; and they are warmer in
winter, because they do not radiate the heat of
the body so rapidly as dark colored clothing.
Dark colored clothes are warmest in summer, be-
cause the darker the cloth, the more perfectly it
absorbs the direct heat of the sun. They are,
however, colder in winter than light colored
clothing, proving the rapidity with which they
absorb the heat from the body.

CLO T HE 5, To Brush—Have awooden horse
to put the clothes on, and a small cane to beat
the dust out of them ; also a board or table long
enough for them to be put their whole length
when brushing them. Have two brushes, one a
hard bristle, the other soft; use the hardest for
the great coats, and for the others when spotted
with dirt. Fine cloth coats should never be
brushed with too hard a brush, as they will take
off the nap, and make them look bare in a little
time. Be careful in the choice of the cane, do

, not have it too large, and be particular not to
.hit too hard. Be careful also not to hit the but-
tons, for it will scratch, if not break them ; there-
fore a small handwhip is the best to beat with.

If a coat be wet and spotted with dirt, let it be

quite dry before brushing; then rub out the

 

spots with the hands, taking care not to rumple
it in so doing. If it want beating, do as before
directed, then put the coat at its full length on a
board; let the collar be towards the left hand,
and the brush in the right. Brush' the back of
the collar first, between the two shoulders next,
and then the sleeves, etc., observing to brush the
cloth the same way that the nap goes, which is
towards the skirt of the coat. When both sides
are roperly done, fold them together, then
bruslli1 the inside, and last of all the collar.
CLOTIIES, T o Renow!e.—To warm 50%
water 4 gals., put in I beefs gall; saleratus, %
lb. Dissolve. Lay the garment on abench and
scour every part thoroughly by dipping a stifi',
brush into the mixture; spots of grease and the
collar must be done more thorough, and longer
continued than other parts, and rinse the gar-
ment in the mixture by raising up and down a.
few times, then the same way in a tub of soft
cold water; press out the water and hang up to

dry; after which it needs brushing the way of '

the nap and pressing well under a damp cloth.

Beef ’5 gal will set the color on silks, woolen,
or cotton—one spoon to a gallon of water is suf-
ficient for this purpose. Spotted bombazine or
bombazette washed in this will also look nearly
equal to new.

CLOTH (or Clot/ling), To render Waterproof.
—Several inquiries have been made of us, lately,
respecting the mode of preparing cloth to render
it waterproof, and yet maintain its porosity.
Close waterproof cloth fabrics, such as glazed
oil cloth, India rubber, and gutta percha cloth
are completely waterproof, but do not permit
perspiration and the exhaled gases from the skin
to pass through them, because they are air tight
as well as water tight. Persons who wear air
tight garments soon become faint, if they are
undergoing severe exercise, such as that to which
soldiers are exposed when on march. A porous,

waterproof cloth, therefore, is the best for outer '

garments during wet weather, for those whose
duties or labor causes them to perspire freely.
The best way for preparing such cloth is by the
process adopted for the tunics of the French sold-
iers during the Crimean war. It is as follows:
Take 2% pounds of alum and dissolve this in 10
gallons of boiling water; then in a separate ves-

y-i
Isl

 

334-

sel dissolve the same quantity of sugar of lead in
10 gallons of water, and mix the two solutions.
The cloth is now well handled in this liquid, un--
til every part of it is penetrated; then it is squeez-
ed and dried in the air, or in a warm apartment,
then washed in cold water and dried again, when
it is fit for use. If necessary, the cloth may be dipped
in the liquid and dried twice before being wash-
ed. The liquor appears curdled, when the alum
and lead solutions are mixed together. This is
the result of double decomposition, the sulphate
of lead, which is an insoluble salt, being formed.
The sulphate of lead is taken up in the pores of
the cloth, and it is unaffected by rains or moist-
ure, and yet it does not render the cloth air tight.
Such cloth is also partiall non-inflammable. A
solution of alum itself wil render cloth, prepared
as described, partially waterproof, but is not so
good as the sulphate of lead. Such cloth—cot-
ton or woolen—sheds rain like the feathers on
the back of a duck.

CLOTHING, Water-light. -— Balard recom-k
mends the application of acetate of alumina for
the purpose of rendering clothing impervious to
water. The cloth is to be immersed in a mixture
of solutions of acetate of lead and sulphate of
alumina; by mutual decomposition of the salts,
acetate of alumina is produced on the cloth, and
when the goods are dried, basic acetate of alumina
adheres to the fiber, and thus protects it from the
action of moisture. The process is particularly
recommended for military goods.

DRESSES, Uninflammable.—It is much to
be regretted that the process of rendering the
material of ladies’ muslin dresses uninflammable
is not more generally understood and used.
Either of three substances—phosphate of am-
monia, tungstate of soda, and sulphate of am-
monia, can be mixed in the starch, and at the cost
of two cents a dress, deaths from burned gar-
ments can be rendered impossible. Articles of
apparel subjected to those agents can, if they
burn at all, only smoulder; and in no case can
they blaze up in the sudden and terrible manner
in which so many fatal accidents have occurred to
the fair wearers of crinoline.

GARMENTS, To Make and Cut.—.4 Dress,
(the Waist).—Measure the lady you are going to
fit with an inch measure. First, under the arm,
down the seam of shoulder, across the chest
from seam to scam, I mean the seam under the
arm. Length from throat to waist. Length of
back to waist. Across the back the same way
as front. Cut in common lining the paper pat-
tern nearest your measure. Leave turnings, or
cut your pattern larger in any part (if required)
half an inch. In making up your lining to fit,
pin the body together on shoulder and under
the arm. Tack the plaits or run them up with
cotton. Take the lady’s measure over her gown,
but fit it on without it. Before you begin to cut,
have a piece of paper ready written in the fol-
lowing manner, detailing in inches the respective
measurements ; for instance, a middle size would
be something near these proportions:

Under the arm

Shoulder . o o o a t 7 ['2
Chest . . . . . . . 19
Length of front . . . . 17
Length of back . . . . I 5 1-2
Across the back . . . . I 5

If for yourself, and you have no paper pattern
that fits, unpick half an old body that fits well;

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

lay your new lining on your cutting board, with
an old body on top of it, and with your piereer
EEC}: through both, in the old stitches of your

dy pattern; prick them well, as the marks are
apt to rub out ; tack all the body well in the
holes round it, before you begin, and be ve
careful to stitch your body to the tacking threa ;
take care and attend to this. Five out of six per-
sons have their dresses made too tight across
the chest; it is a sad fault; I have many times
seen waists out of reason in length, and the front
two inches too narrow; if a penknife were run
up the middle, it would burst open; when I had
occasion to do it, I have never found any one
willing to have the seam sewn up again; and I
feel convinced, that any lady, once wearing an
easy dress, would never go back to a tight one;
to say nothing of its being healthy and beautiful.
Great care must be taken with the arm~holes;
do not make them too large or too small; thir-
teen inches is a nice size for a person not more
than twenty-four inches in the waist; fourteen
inches is a large size, only required for stout
persons. If you have to alter the arm-hole,
never do it under the arm; in nine cases out of
ten, it will spoil the dress, and it takes away the
free use of the arm; a very small piece cut off
round the armhole, except underneath, will be
all that is necessary. Do not forget your sleeve
must be larger than the arm-hole an inch and a
half; when put in, it never looks the least full,
and sets better. The seam of your sleeve must
not be even with the seam of your body, but half
an inch in front of it. In cording the neck, do
not stretch it; hold the cord tight. The waist
must, on the contrary, be pulled well, when the
cord is put on, or it will never fit; it requires
much stretching. The fit of the body often de-
pends on the finishing of the waist. In putting
on a waistband, let it be larger than the body;
the fashion at the present moment, I am glad to
say, is not carried to the extreme; the waists are
moderate in length, and I do hope sensible wo-
men will cease to think tight waists are an orna-
ment. Nothing is so beautiful as nature, if we
only let it alone; it is presumption to think we
can improve it; so much has been said by all our
clever physicians on this subject, that more than
a passing remark from me will be unnecessar .
It is a common error to make the backs o a
dress of a different size; both halves should be
of the same size; as one comes under, and the
other over, they must of course wrap eqpal, and
certainly require to be both alike. Put 1 e hooks
not more than one inch apart, and a quarter of
an inch from the edge of the back. If the dress
fastens in front, make the fastenings the same;
and I think a hem down the back a decided
improvement; it takes of? the width of the back,
for narrow backs and wide chests are what is
considered right. In gathering a body at the
waist, if it is at all thick material, gauge it with
strong silk or thread and large stitches, for' it is
a small compass it has to be put in ; all full
bodies are made with quite a straight piece of
material, twenty inches longland eighteen Wide;
this is half the front; gat er it straightat the
bottom, and then place it on your tight lining;
fix it firmly, and then gather it at the shoulder;
but mind and do the bottom gauging first; f0
make a body with folds, still have your material
twenty inches long, and nineteen Wide; the selv-
age must reach from waist to shoulder.

 

 

W4RDROBE.

Have the piece on a table before you, and
make about four folds quite straight; lay them
on your lining, push them close together at the
waist, and pull them wider apart at the shoul-
der. I find it makes the folds set better, to
cover over half the body-lining with a plain piece
of the dress, like you would wear a stomacher,
and then place your folds to meet it; so that a
folded body will be in two pieces, the plain part

ut on first, and then the folds after. In putting
olds on a body, let it be on the straight, or a
good across; don’t let it be neither one nor the
other, which is too frequently the case, and always
will, as a matter of course, set badly; do not put
your folds into the neck—let them come toward
the shoulder; it winds the chest; they had bet-
ter be laid a little on the sleeves, then pushed
all toward the neck. In making your body-
lining ready to put on the part, be careful it is
very exact and smooth, and mind your body is
neat inside as well as out; don’t let raw edges
be seen; turn them, so that the outside fullness
or plaits cover what you can, and make the
seam under the arm and on the shoulder neat,
b sewing them over with white cotton; that is,
ify your body is lined with white, which it cer-
tainly ought to be. Do not have the lining too
stout. It will not give easily to the figure. A
yard and a quarter is plenty for a moderate-sized
erson. Use little or no whalebone. Let it be
In thin strips which will give to the form. Be
sure to give ease in the arm-hole, and width in
the chest, whether for a dress or jacket. Be
“sure you are right” before you “go ahead;”
that is, look to see if you have the pattern of the
material all running in the same direction, the
two halves of the front and back cut for the op-
osite sides, the breadths of the skirt the same
l)ength, etc., etc., else the scissors will do sad
mischief. If you are inexperienced, look twice
and baste carefully. Trust nothing to chance;
you can not be too precise. You will save time
and labor in the end, by being ver particular
, about the fastening. It is the soul 0 nice work.

In cutting the sleeve, measure the length of
the arm from the shoulder to the wrist, over the
bent elbow, no matter what the fashion of the
sleeve may be. If a bishop-sleeve, it should be
allowed long over the elbow, allowing at least
four inches for the droop, and shorter on the
inner seam. Remember to slope the top of the
sleeve for the arm-hole, not both sides alike, but
with the upper half curving in, say, half an inch;
also to allow one inch and a half to be taken up
in sewing in the sleeve—that is, allow the sleeve
to be that much larger than the arm-hole ; it will
look plain when sewn in.

Open sleeves should be lined as far back as
they are seen, either with a piece of the dress
material, or with silk. White silk is used as
a lining for black and other colors. If a
rich dress, the lining should be finished off with
a ruck of white ribbon, or black lace, just show-
ing over the edge.

If the caps of sleeves are sloped like the
sleeves, at the top, they will set down too close;
they should be hollowed in, a little, on the top.

Trimming should be sewn on stron but
lightly; never dragged in the least; ho d it a
little full.

In making the skirt, su posing you have meaS.
ured over your material, have your inch measure
ready to cut the skirt from it. It is a good plan

 

335;

to write down in a little book the number of
inches long our skirt is required. Measure it

at the back 0 the dress, and then from the seam

under the arm. The slope begins here, and

gradually goes to the oint. Lay the skirt on

a table, and have both ialves exact, pin them to-

gether at the bottom, and pull them even at the

top. A dressmaker would have a person to hold

the skirt at the bottom, while she made it even

at the top. Put seam to scam. Care should be

taken to cut your skirt even, every breadth the

same length; and let your seams be nicely pin-

ned before you begin to run them. Make your-

selves a heavy cushion, to pin your seams to.

A common brick covered makes a very good one.

In cutting off the skirt, if the length, we will

suppose, should be forty-two or forty-six inches

long, leave four inches more for the hem and’
turnings at the top. Cut the lining for the skirt)
exact to the material, and mind it fits whenq‘
finished. Supposing you have to run the seams

of the skirt and the seams of your lining, lay the

lining on the table, placing the skirt on to , and

then tack the seams of your skirt to the ining.

Begin at the first seam, and gradually go on to

the last seam; stitch up three pieces together,

and fell over the fourth; having done this, hem

the bottom. Fix your hem all round before you

begin, and do not take the stitches through un-

less your hem is tacked or pinned: it will be

sure to be on the twist, and set badly.

Having done this, run on your braid, which
must be put on easy or rather full. Attend to
this, or you will spoil the set of the skirt. If the
skirt is to have flounces, they must be put on be-
fore you gauge the top; and while the skirt is on
the table, put a white tacking-thread round the
skirt where each flounce is to be fixed. F lounces
take the same quantity of material if cut either
on the straight or the cross. It is a common
error to suppose they take more on the cross.
For the fullness of a flounce, allow one width on
the cross to one width on the straight of your
skirt; so that if you have six widths in your
skirts, you will have six widths in your flounces
on the cross. If there are three flounces of dif-
ferent widths, let the bottom and widest one have
the most fullness; three inches more fullness
will be sufficient. If the flounces are on the
straight, allow eight widths in the flounce to six
widths in the skirt. A small cord run in at the
top of the flounce makes it look neat. Before
running the cord in your flounce, join it round
the exact size of the skirt; join round likewise
your flounces, and full them on the cord as you
go on. Halve and quarter your flounces and also
your skirt, and you will find them no trouble to
put on.

To cut flounces on a good cross, have the ma-
terial on a table, and turn down one corner in the
exact shape of half a pocket handkerchief, and
then cut it through. In turning down your half,
try two ways: one way lays flat on the table
when folded, and the other does not look so flat;
cut through the latter. In silk there is no per.
ceptible difference which way you cut it; but in
crape you will very easily observe it. Take any
piece you have by you, and try it while reading
this. Now begin to turn down your material on
the cross, like a gentleman folds his neckerchief;
keep folding until you have the number of pieces
you want or one flounce, and keep each one
pinned to the other as you fold them, so as to

335 ,

leave them all exact in width. Mind the edges
measure exact. Supposing you to keep turning
each one as you fold it. If the flounces are to be
nine inches, cut the selvage the same depth.
Some persons are at a loss to know how much
three or four flounces will take. Supposing you
have three flounces, one ten, one eight, and one
six inches deep at the selvage, the flounce of ten
inches wide would take not quite one yard and
three-quarters; that of eight inches, one yard, a
quarter and three inches; and that of six inches,
exactly one yard — making in all four yards for
three flounces; this, you will understand, is for
flounces cut on the cross or straight in any mate-
rial you may choose to use. I should advise you
to have paper and pencil and your inch measure,
and reckon before you purchase your material.
Trimmings down the front of a dress, when on
the cross, should be cut the same as flounces.
In trimming the front of a skirt, it is a good plan
to cut a paper the length of the skirt, and pin it
on the way you inten to trim, and then tack a
tacking-thread by it. Put tackings wherever
you mean to trim, before you begin trimming,
and lay your skirt on a table to do it; put on all
trimmings with a light band; do not sew them
as you would a shirt—it gives them a puckered
look. Now mind a good cross, no attempt at
making pieces do, unless they are good corner
pieces that will join well; you are more sure of
making a trimming well, if cut all from one piece.
Before cutting a skirt off, that you wish to put
tucks in, have a iece of lining or calico at hand,
and pin the tuc {s in it as you wish to put them
in your skirt. Supposing you to have pinned
your calico exactly like one width of your skirt,
take out your pins and measure with an inch
measure the exact quantity, and then calculate
the exact quantity you will want for the whole
skirt. As a general rule, a tucked skirt takes
more than a flounced one, and makes less show
for the quantity of material used. \Vhen run-
ning seams of a silk skirt, notch the selvage all
the way up the seams of every breadth and pass
a moderately warm iron over the seams when
finished; seams in a merino skirt require to be
run thickly and pressed open ; press every join
you make in every part of a dress. In gauging
a skirt of any kind, gauge the four back widths
in larger stitches than you gauge the three front
ones ; the rule in gauging is to take as much
on your needle as you leave; that is, if you took
up on our needle a quarter of an inch, you
would eave a quarter of an inch ; this size
would do for the back gathers, but the front
must be smaller. All seams should be run with
silk the color of the dress. It is a good plan to
have fine black thread in your work-box, to sew
waists on and gauge the skirts of a dark dress.
Pockets in dresses are a decided objection, and
are often worn by ladies because they are put
there by the dressmaker, and save any further
trouble. A pocket will become loose in a dress,
or dirty, and require washing. It pocket-hand-
kerchiefs only were put in, the objection would
not be quite so great; so few ladies will wear
two, although that is what I could wish. If one
pocket must be worn in the dress, wear another
as well under the dress. What I should recom-
mend would be to wear two good loose pockets
stitched on a band, one on the right, and the
other on the left side, eighteen inches long and
nine inches wide, made in jean. In this size you

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

can cut two slits, one across the half of the length,
and the other nearer the top, almost at the band.
At the entrance to each pocket put a good button
and button-hole. A small purse will be more
safely carried in the top ocket; button it in, and
mind that the button-ho e fits the button, or the
friction in walking may cause it to unbutton.

On walking out, if you require money, put it
loose in your pocket; this may seem objectionable
to some, but it certainly is the safest plan. Many
ladies like to carry a rather large sum of money;
not that they know they shall want it, but in case
they may. It certainly is not safe for ladies to
look into shop windows, or in any way to loiter
with money in their hands, or a watch or jewelry
in sight. There is no occasion to do without a
watch', but it should not be worn in sight in the
street. Ladies will say they like to have it handy,
so that they may easily see the time. Thieves
and pickpockets quite agree with ladies in carry.
ing every thing handily.

Summer ffacl’ebr—I will now give some hints
on the advantages of summer jackets to be worn
under the dress, made of thin washing material.
The object of these jackets is to preserve the lin-
ing of the dress clean, and to protect the dress
from the warmth of the neck. I was partly in-
duced to write these hints from having hearda
discussion between two young ladies upon the
importance of turning a silk dress. It was ad-
mitted by both, that the only bad or ugly part of
the gown about to be turned was the to of the
body. The perspiration and warmth of tlie neck
had certainly taken out the color of the silk halt
way across the back, from the shoulders upward.
Now this must be disheartening, to find a dress
spoilt before it is half worn out. During the
time of wearing a dress, how much more agree-
able it is to see the body-lining nice and clean!
To those who wear habit-shirts they are a small
protection; but unless they are constantly worn,
they will be of little avail. What I ropose is
this: to wear a small, thin, white jac 'et, high,
made of jaconet or cambric muslin. The thin-
ness or thickness of the material must be regulat-
ed by the taste of the wearer. A muslin that re-
quires little or no starch is best. The jackets
can be worn either with short or long sleeves, or
without any sleeves at all, and to fasten either
before or behind, whichever may be preferred.
Many young persons merely tack a piece of lace
or collar on their dress, and simply put it on
over their stays, with nothing to protect the dress.
In every way this is a dirty and extravagant habit,
for the body must get immensely soiled before
the skirt is half worn out. For those to whom
expense is no consideration, they can be very
prettily trimmed with insertion and lace; but the
principal object being cleanliness and protection
to the dress, trimming is left entirely to the taste
of the wearer. Many ladies wear a low-body
petticoat, a thin jacket over, and lastly a habit-
shirt. If some persons can wear three articles,
and others none at all, there must be something
that requires altering in this part of a lady’s

dress.

GARAIEN T 5, To Renew w/im Faded and
W'zmz.—To alcohol 1 qt., add extract of logwood
% 1b.; loaf sugar 2 02.; blue vitriol % 02.; heat
gently until all are dissolved; bottle for use. To
one pint of boiling water put three or four tea.-
spoons of the mixture, and apply it to the garment
with a. clean brush; wetting the fabric thoroughly;

 

WARDROBE.

let dry; then suds out well and dry again‘to
prevent crocking; brush with the nap to give
the olish. This may be ap lied to silks and
woo en goods having colors; ut is most appli~
cable to gentlemen’s apparel.

GREASE SPOTS, T o Extrartfram Linen.
—Take magnesia in the lump, wet it and rub it
on the spot thoroughly ; let it remain an hour or
so, and brush it off. Another way is to scrape
French chalk upon the spot until it is well cover-
ed. Now hold a hot iron near it for a few min-
utes, and then brush off the chalk. If grease
still remains, do it again. French chalk can be
had of tailors, who use it in marking cloth for
cutting.

GLOVES (Kid), To Colon—r. Put one half
ounce extract of logwood into a two ounce phial,
and fill up with good brandy. This dye will
keep for years, if well corked. Put the gloves
on the hand, and with a small swab (a piece of
sponge tied to a stick is best), apply the dye
evenly all over them. Then rub the one hand
with the other, smoothly and firmly, until the
gloves are dry--a few minutes only, as the spirit
soon evaporates. More logwood gives a nearly
black color; less produces a delicate lilac.—2. Dis-
solve India ink in water, and apply with a
camel’s hair brush. A fine brown may be ob-
tained by rubbing lightly with a strong decoction
of tea.

HA TS, To take Care qfi—If your hat is wet,
shake it out as much as possible; then brush it
with a soft brush as smooth as you can, or with
a clean linen cloth or handkerchief; wipe it very
carefully. keep the beaver flat and smooth, in the
same direction as it was first placed; then, with
asmall cane, beat the nap gently up, and hang
it up to dry in a cool place. When it is dry, lay

-it on a table, and brush it round several times
with a soft brush in the proper direction; and
you will find your hat not the least injured by
the rain. If the gloss is not quite so high as you
wish, take a flat iron, moderately heated, and
pass the same two or three times gently over the

at; brush it afterwards and it will become near-
ly as handsome as when sent home from the
maker. T a noun; hat wlzm tire nap is clotted,
and to take salt water amt—Get a hard brush, a
basin of hot water (boiling), and some yellow
soap; rub a little of the soap lightly on the brush
and dip it into the water; brush the hat round
with the nap. If you find the nap clotted, do
not scrape it with your fingers, as that tears it
off, but brush it until it is smooth, and the soap
is thoroughly out ; then take a piece of wood, or
the back of a knife, and scrape it well round;
you will find all the dirt come out; then beat it
gently with a cane.

LA UzVDR YIN G, PVit/z Caréolic Soap—Not
a few ladies are so situated that they have neither
conveniences for washing nor time to go through
the usual processes even for the smallest articles,
and yet are not in the neighborhood of any per-
son to whom they can trust the doing up of
laces and sheer muslins.

We have accidentally discovered how great
help in such case is to be found in carbolic soap.
A cake of the article as prepared for the toilet
being in our soap dish, we one day put into a
suds made from it ahandful of laces and linen
lawns, some of them quite yellow from long
waiting, and being busily absorbed, thought no
more about them until next day, when they were

1‘.

 

337

found to be entirely whitened and cleansed, and
only needing to be rinsed to be ready for the
starching.

This knowledge may be made available in the
art of doing up nice laces, which any lady may
learn if she has the time to attend to it, thus
avoiding the necessity of sending them out to be
done by those who make the business a profes-
Sion.

Stretch over a wine bottle, or better, a well
cleansed quart stone ink jug, as it is of more uni-
form diameter, the leg of a soft, firm, fine, white
cotton stocking, and secure it well by stitches.
On this, wind the collar or band of lace to be
cleansed, and then with fine needle and thread
baste it carefully on the stocking, following with
the needle all the scallops of the edge and catch-
ing down all the loops so they cannot get out of
place in washin .

Set the bottle in a deep dish or tin pail of car-
bolic soap suds and let it remain twelve or twen-
ty-four hours as the case may be. Rinse out the
suds by holding the bottle under the hydrant or
by moving it in a pail of clean water; let it part-
ly drain off and then with a clean sponge or rag
or even with the fingers, saturate the lace with a
very weak solution of white pulverized, gum
arabic in water.

When quite dry, rip off the lace, and if it
is not as smooth as is desired, lay it under pres-
sure between the blank leaves of a book, or if
there is haste, it may be pressed with a warm
flat iron between muslin lined flannels; but the
whole process may be (performed without any
warm water or irons, an several steps in the or-
dinary mode of washing saved.

The suds may be thrown into the wash bowls
to purify the drain pipes.

Whether it is safe to use carbolic soap freely in
washing, if the hands must come a good deal in
contact with it, is a question.

RIBBON (Velvet), To Iron.—-Dampen the;
under side slightly, and draw it backward and
forward over a hot stove pipe until the velvet is;
quite dry. A still better plan—though in winter it:
is not always as convenient—is to lay awet piece-
of cotton cloth on a hot flat iron placed upside
down, and while the steam is rising from it, to‘
draw the under side of the velvet tightly back..
ward and forward over the wet cloth.

SHIRT 60501115 AND C OLLARS, To.
Starch—Pour a pint of boiling water upon two)
ounces of gum arabic, cover it and let 1t stand:
over night ; in the morning pour it carefully from:
the dregs into a clean bottle, cork it and keep it:
for future use. A tablespoonful of this gum;
arabic water, stirred into a pint of starch made in
the usual manner, will give to lawns, either white-
or printed, a look of newness when nothing else;
can restore them after the have been washed.
To every pint of starch a d a piece of butter,,
lard, tallow or spermaceti candle the size of a.
chestnut.

SHOE S OLES, T o Suva—It consists merely,-
in melting together tallow and common resin, in,
the proportion of two parts of the former to one of.
the latter, and applying the preparation hot, to,
the soles of the boots or shoes—as much of it as~
the leather will absorb. '

SILR', T o flap—Silk articles should not be
kept folded in white paper, as the chloride of
lime used in bleaching the paper will probably
impair the color of the silk. Brown or blue-

23 m '

338

paper is better; the yellowish, smooth India
paper is the best of all. Silks intended for dress
should not be kept long in the house before they
are made up, as lying in the folds will have a
tendency to impair its durability by causing it to
cut or split, particularly if the silk has been
thickened by gum. Thread lace vails are very
easily cut. But dresses of velvet should not be
laid by with any weight above them; if the nap
of thin velvet is laid down, it is not possible to
raise it up again.

Hard silk should never be wrinkled, because
the thread is easily broken in the crease, and it
never can be rectified. The way to take the
wrinkles out of silk scarfs and handkerchiefs is
to moisten the surface evenly with a sponge and
some weak glue, and then pin the silk with some
toilet pins on a mattress or feather bed, taking
pains to draw out the silk as tight as possible.
When dry, the wrinkles will have disappeared.
The reason of this is obvious to every person.
Some silk articles shouldbe moistened with weak
glue or gum-water, and the wrinkles ironed out
by a hot flat iron on the wrong side.

SILK (Black), To Clwom—When awoman
is about to choose black silk, it is well to pull a
thread out of the “tram”, or filling. She must
try the strength of the thread. If it breaks easi-
ly, the examination has gone far enough; it is
wisdom to look further. We will suppose the
thread has been tried and indicates some back-
bone; then it is necessary, if the woman is right
brave, and dares to do such a thing with a hand-
some pair of clerk’s eyes bearing down upon her
like a privateer upon a poor little merehantman,
to seize the silk by the corner and rub it just as
the washerwoman would do when she intends to
remove a stain. If this awful ordeal can be per-
formed to perfection—~remember some muscle
must be brought into play—the silk is honest and
legitimate. If it is heavy with dye, if held up
to the light, slight traces of disaster may be dis-
cerned.

SILK (Black), To “Do up”.—Boil an old
kid glove (cut into small shreds) in a pint of wa-

 

DICTIONARY'OF EVER Y-DA Y WANTS.

ter till the water is reduced to half a pint ; then
sponge your silk with it; told it down tight, and
ten minutes after iron it on the wrong side while
wet. The silk will retain its softness and lustre
aiiii’ at the same time, have the “body” of new
51 .

WORKING SUIT fbr Famzen.—Farmers
and mechanics need some kind of a substantial
working dress—one that is cheaply made and
easily put on and comfortably worn. It is very
expensive working in a good suit of clothes and
exposing them to the various kinds of labor in-
cident to farm life. Put on a pair of new pants
and get into an apple tree to trim or graft it, or go
to repairing fences, and you will be sure to make
a rent in them before they are a day old. Such
a thing rarely happens to an old pair. We in-
vented a dress several years since which we have
used and recommended to others much to their
satisfaction. It is a sleeve vest closed in front,
and trowsers in one piece, with only one fasten-
ing with a strap behind the neck. The sleeve
may be made sufficiently large enough to wear
over a coat. The material should be of blue
drilling.

Thus at a trifling expense a man can be readily
fitted to grapple with any kind of work without
a constant fear of tearing or soiling his clothes,
while the cost is not one tenth part of a suit of
ordinary clothing. It will often be found con-
venient to wear in hot weather without any other
clothing than a shirt. Any clever house-keeper
who can make a pair of summer pants, can make
one of these most useful articles. The only diffi-
culty usually is not buying cloth enough to have
them made sufficiently large. The suit should
be large enough to wear over other garments,
if necessary, and when the day’s work is done it
may be removed, others substituted, and the far-
mer is in complete trim to sit down of an evening
dressed in clean clothes and ready to engage in
conversation, reading, or any other amusement
suited to a rational and intelligent mind. The
cost of such a suit is trifling, and is more than
made up by what it caves of other clothes.

WASHING, BLEACHING AND DYEING.

ANNOTTO DYE. —Cut the annotto' into
small pieces, and boil it in a copper, with an
equal weight of good pearlash, then dilute with
water to a proper color. Prater: chyeing.——Im-
merse the articles, previously rinsed in clean wa-
ter, in the dye, and give them a good boil; then
drain them out and rinse them well in clean
water.

Annotto is chiefly used for silks, to which it
Imparts a fine orange yellow color, the shade of
which may be modified, by using different pro-
portions of pearlash, and also by giving the
stuff different mordants before putting it into the
dye—bath.

BLANKE T S, To Clean. — Put two large
tablespoonfuls of borax and a pint bowl of soft
soap into a tub of cold water. When dissolved,
put in a pair of blankets, and let them remain

 

over night. Next day rub and drain them out,
and rinse thoroughly in two waters, and hang
them out to dry. Do not wring them.

BLA CKDYE.-——-I. Logwood and cider, with
a little water, boiled together in iron, make a
good black dye. '

2. To one pound of extract of logwood allow
an ounce of blue vitriol. Dissolve the logwood
in an iron vessel containing five gallons of water,
and let it boil. Add to the logwood a table-
spoonful of pulverized copperas. Pulverize the
vitriol and dissolve it in a separate vessel, con-
taining the same quantity of water; let this also
boil. Scald the material first in the vitriol water,
and then put it in the logwood; let it remain two
hours scalding in the logwood. It should be
fre uently stirred. This is a good and con-
venient dye for silks and muslins. They can be

 

 

WASHING, BLEACHING AND DYEING.

set by washing in a strong lather of home-made
soap, and afterward dipped in salt and water.
Ink-powder boiled with vinegar will dye black.
Copperas is the best thing to set black.
3. Allow a pound of logwood to each pound of
oods that are to be dyed. Soak it over night
In soft water, then boil it an hour, and strain the
water in which it is boiled. For each pound of
logwood, dissolve an ounce of blue vitriol in
lukewarm water sufficient to wet the goods. Dip
the goods in—when saturated with it, turn the
whole into the logwood dye. If the goods are
cotton, set the vessel on the fire, and let the
goods boil ten or fifteen minutes, stirring them
constantly to prevent their spotting. Silk and
woolen goods should not be boiled in the dye-
stuFf, but it should be kept at a scalding heat for
twenty minutes. Drain the goods without wring-
ing, and hang them in a dry, shady place, Where
they will have the air. When dry, set the color
by putting them into scalding hot water that has
salt in it, in the proportion of a teacupful to
three gallons of the water. Let the goods remain
in till cold; then hang them where they will dry
(they should not be wrung). Boiling hot suds
is the best thing to set the color of black silk—
let it remain in till cold. Soaking black dyed
goods in sour milk, is also good to set the color.

BLACK DYEfirr Cotton.—For 5 lbs. goods
—sumac, wood and bark together, 3 lbs.; boil
% hour, and let the goods steep [2 hours; then
dip in lime water % hour; then take out the
goods and let them drip an hour; now add to
the sumac liquor, copperas .8 02., and dip an;
other hour; then run them through the tub of
lime water again for 15 minutes; now make a
new dye with logwood, 2% lbs, by boiling I
hour, and dip again 3 hours; now add bi~chro-
mate of potash, z 02., to the logwood dye, and
dip I hour. Wash in clear cold water and dry
in the shade. You may say this is doing too
much. You cannot get a permanent black on
cotton with less labor.

BLACK DYE for Wood—x. For [0 lbs. of
wool, bi-chromate of potash, 4 02.; ground argal,
3 02.; boil together, and put in the wool; stir
well, and let it remain in t e dye 4hours. Then
take out the wool, rinse it slightly in clear wa-
ter; then make a new (1 6, into which ut log-
wood, 3% lbs. Boil I our, and add c amber-
lye, 1 pt., and let the wool lie in all night. Wash
in clear water.

2. For 5 lbs. of goods—blue vitriol,6oz.; boil
it a few minutes, then dip the goods % of an
hour, airing often; take out the goods, and make
a dye with logwood, 3 lbs.; boil % hour; dip LL;
of an hour and air the goods, and dip % of an
hour more. Wash in strong suds.

This will not impart any of its color in fulling,
nor fade by exposure to the sun.

BLA CK DYE for Slmw and Ch}? Bonnets.
—Chip hats being composed of the shavings of
wood, are stained black in various ways. First,
by being boiled in strong logwood liquor 3 or 4
hours; they must he often taken out to cool in
the air, and now and then a small quantity of
green copperas must be added to the liquor, and
this continued for several hours. The saucepan
or kettle that they are dyed in may remain with
the bonnets in it all night; the next morning they
must be taken out and dried in the air, and
brushed with a soft brush. Lastly, a s onge is
dipped in oil, and squeezed almost to (hyness;

Hal-sum.

 

339

with this the bonnets are rubbed all over, both
inside and out, and then sent to the blockers to
be blocked. Others boil them in logwood; and
instead of green copperas, use steel filings
steeped in vinegar; after which they are finished
as above.

BLUE DYE—Dip in a strong solution of
sulphate of indigo, or chemical blue; set with
alum. The best way is to boil the articles in
strong alum water before dipping them. To
color wool blue, boil it in adecoctiou of logwood,
and sulphate or acetate of copper.

BL UE DYE for I’Vool (Quick Prawn). —
For 2 lbs. of goods—alum 5 02.; cream of tar-
tar, 3 02.; boil the goods in this for I hour; then
throw the goods into warm water, which has
more or less of the extract of indigo in it, ac-
cording to the depth of color desired, and boil
again until it suits, adding more of the blue if
needed. It is quick and permanent.

BL UE DYE, AA’YLIA’EI—To 100 pounds
of fabric dissolve I% pounds of aniline blue in 3
quarts of hot alcohol; strain through a filter, and
add it to a bath of I 30° Fah.; also 10 pounds of
Glauber’s salts, and 5 pounds of acetic acid. En-
ter the goods, and handle them well for twenty
minutes; then beat it slowly to 200° F ah. ; then
add 5 pounds of sulphuric acid diluted with wa-
ter. Let the whole boil twenty minutes longer,
then rinse and dry. If the aniline be added in
two or three proportions during the process of
coloring, it will facilitate the evenness of the
color. The blue, or red shade of blue, is govern-
ed by the kind of aniline used, as there is avarie-
ty in the market. Hard and close wove fabrics,
such as braid, ought to be prepared in a boiling
solution of 10 pounds of sulphuric acid and 2
pounds of tartaric acid before coloring with the
aniline, :as this will make the fabric more sus-
ceptible to the color. Blues soluble in water
color more easily than those which have to be
dissolved in alcohol.

BLUE, CHROAIE.——-Ioo pounds of wool
are boiled for I hour in a solution of 3 pounds of
bichromate of potash, 6 pounds of alum, I pound
of half-refined tartar : then it is taken out, cool—
ed, and rinsed. Boil 6 pounds of good logwood
in a bag for half an hour in fresh water, add 3
pounds of cudbear, well moistened and dissolved.
Cool the dye to 180° Eah. Enter the prepared
wool, and handle it for three quarters of an hour;
bring it to a boil in this time. This color ought
to be always left a shade lighter when finished,
as all chrome colors darken in drying.

BLUE DYE, DARK(Suita61e for Tfiifietx
and Lastings).—Boil 100 pounds of the fabric
for one hour and ahalf ina solution of 25 pounds
of alum, 4 pounds of tartar, 6 pounds of mor-
dant, 6 pounds of common extract of indigo;
cool them as usual. Boil in fresh water from 8
to 10 pounds of logwood, in a bag or otherwise,
then cool the dye to I7o°Fah. Reel the fabric
quickly at first, then let it boil strongly for one
hour. This is a very good imitation of indigo
blue. Chemic om be used in the preparation;
but should the shade require more of the indigo
while finishing in the logwood, extract of indigo
ought to be used.

The old English way of colorin a blue black
on lastings, is by boiling 100 mm s of the fabric
for one and a half hours 1n a solution of 10
pounds of alum, I pound of copperas, and I
pound of blue vitriol; take the goods out, cool

34o

DICTIONARY 0F EVER Y-DA y WANTS.

 

them, and boil them for one hour in a dye con-
taining 10 pounds of logwood. This color would
not look well on soft goods, such as thibets, as,
in fact it is only a dark slate, but it looks better
on lastings, on account of its gloss.

N. B.—T0 all these colors the logwood can be
boiled in large quantities, say a barrelful in a
hogshead of water at a time, 2 pounds of log-
wood being reckoned to a pail of liquid. This
will save boiling the chips in a bag. Five pails
will be equal to 10 pounds of chips. It has this
advantage, too: more can be easily added if the
shade require darkening. Extract of logwood
should never be used for blues, as it will produce
dull colors on account of its being disoxidized by

t1me.

BL UE DYE, DARK (Topped with Log—
wooa’).—Give it a dip first in the blue vat, then
rinse; then boil the wool for one hour in a kettle
containing 10 pounds of alum, 2 pounds of half-
refined tartar, and 1% pounds of blue vitriol;
after which take it out, cool, and make fresh wa-
ter. Add from 5 to 10 pounds of logwood, ac-
cording to the shade required, and the quality of
the logwood; let it boil in a bag or otherwise,
cool the kettle to 170° F ah., enter the wool and
handle slowly; in one hour it can be cooled,
rinsed, and switched for dr ing. This does not
require any alkali in shading the wool, as the
soap will do this in fulling. If cloth be colored
this blue, some pearlash or urine may be used
to accomplish it; but then the kettle ought to be
cooled to 136° Fah. The goods require good
scouring, otherwise they will crock.

BI. UE DYE, DARK (For Braadclol/z in the

~ VVoal).—-This is colored in a healthy woad vat;

the first dip is handled well and slow for one
hour in the net, then taken out, aired, and the
vat stirred again; in two hours it can be dipped
again for half an hour, and so often taken through
until it has acquired the right shade. The vat
ought to be strong enough in indigo to color it
dark enough in three dips. About 10 pounds of
good indigo is reckoned to 100 pounds of wool;
clear indigo blue does not require anything more,
but if taken through a warm bath containing two
pounds of blue vitriol, the color stands better in
ulling, and is faster; after which it is rinsed,
switched, and dried. The dark blue generally
found in the market is topped with 15 pounds of
camwood or 20 pounds of red sanders; the latter
are boiled on the colored wool, as the indigo
required for such dark colors would make‘it very
expensive.

BLUE DYE, INDIGO, for (lat/E (PART
LOG LVOOD).——Ioo pounds of cloth. Color the
cloth first by one or more dips in the vat of in-
digo blue, and rinse it well; then boil it in a
solution of 20 pounds of alum, 2 pounds of half-
refined tartar, and 5 pounds of mordant for two
hours; then take it out and cool. In fresh water
boil 10 pounds of good logwood for half an hour
in a bag or otherwise; cool of? the kettle to 170°
Fah. before entering; handle well over a reel;
let it boil for half an hour, then take it out, cool,
and rinse. _This is a very fine blue, but not so
permanent for wear.

BLUE DYE, INDIGO (For Hosiery). —
100 pounds of wool are colored with 4 pounds of
Guatemala or 3 pounds of Bengal indigo, in the
woad; or soda vat; then boil in a kettle a few
minutes 5.; pounds of cudbear or 8 pounds of
orchil paste; add one pound of soda, or, better,

 

one pail of urine; then cool the dye to about
170° F ah., and enter the wool. Handle well for
about twenty minutes; take it out, and cool,
rinse, and dry. It is all the same if the cudbear
be put in before or after the indigo. Three
ounces of aniline purple dissolved in one half
pint of alcohol can be used instead of the cudbear.
It produces a very pretty shade, but it ought
never to be used for mixed goods, which have to
be bleached, as it runs into the white; also the
cudbear disappears in the sulphur.

BLUE, LIQUID. — I. Take 1 ounce of soft
Prussian blue, powder it and put in a bottle with
I quart of clear rain water, and add a quarter
ounce of oxalic acid. A teaspoonful is sufficient
for a large washing.

2. Take half a pound of best double oil of
vitriol, mix one ounce of Spanish indigo, pounded
very fine, and scrape in a little chalk; have an
iron pot half full of sand, set this on the fire;
when the sand is hot, put the bottle in, and let
the vitriol, etc., boil gently for a quarter of an .
hour, take the whole off the fire, and let it stand \
for twenty-four hours, and then bottle it for use.

3. Put into a small matrass or common vial 1
oz. of pure Prussian blue reduced to powder,
and pour over it from 1% oz. to 2 oz. of concen-
trated muriatic acid. The mixture produces an
effervescence and the prussiate soon assumes the
consistence of thin paste. Leave it in this state
for 24 hours, then dilute it with 8 or 902. of
water, and preserve the color thus diluted ina
bottle well stopped.

The intensity of this color may be lessened, if
necessary, by new doses of water. If the whole
of this mixture be poured into I quart of water,
it will still exhibita color sufficiently dark for
washing prints.

BLUE DYE, LO0WO0D.—-To 100 pounds
of cloth or wool dissolve 15 pounds of alum, 2
pounds of half-refined tartar, and 3 pounds of blue
vitriol; enter the fabric, and let it boil for one
hour; take it out, cool as usual. Then boil in
fresh water for twenty minutes 10 pounds of
good logwood in a bag or otherwise, cool the dye
to 170° Fah., and enter the fabric. Handle it
well for half an hour, during which time raise
the heat nearly to boiling, then take it out and
cool; cool the dye to 136° F ah.; add 5 pounds of
pearlash, or 4 pails of urine. Enter the goods
again, and handle for half an hour, when the
will be a fine blue. Soda ought never to be use ,
as it makes a dull color. Rinse and dry.‘ This
color is suitable for blue-mixed hosiery.

BLUE, PRUSSIAM— Prussiate of potash
was formerly only used on cotton, with a re-
paration of iron first; and, about the year 1 28,
was first used on woolens, and, of course, no
one then thought that they could be colored
without giving the fabric a preparation of iron,
before entering into the russiate of potash solu-
tion. Every dyer had is preference to one or
the other solutions of iron; they were nitro—muri-
ate of iron, acetate, and tartrate of iron. Some
used iron oxide (burnt copperas) dissolved in
sulphuric acid, etc. ; but later, the yellow prus-
siate was only used until the introduction of the
red prussiate of potash. The latter has the pre-
ference, as it can be added, for darkening the
shade, while in the process of coloring, which is
not the case with the yellow prussiate of potash;
but this would rot the cloth, as this color re uires
a large quantity of acid. To 100 pounds 0 wool

WASHING, BLEA CHING AND DYEINé.

or flannel dissolve 8 pounds of red prussiate of
potash, 2 pounds of tartaric acid, 2 pounds of
oxalic acid, 5 pounds sulphuric acid. Handle the
fabrics in this for half an hour at 120° F ah.; then
reel the goods out, and heat to about 16 ° F ah.;
add 5 pounds of sulphuric acid, and 1 '2 pounds
of tin crystals; stir all well; enter the goods, and
handle for half an hour longer; then heat it to
208° Fah., when it will be a good blue. The
shade can be varied to any extent by the addition
-of logwood liquor and a few pounds of scarlet
s irit; but the liquid ought to be cooled first, and
t e goods handled quickly to secure evenness
while in the logwood. This color ought never
to boil, especially when coloring with steam, as
more than boiling heat (212°) destroys the color
and makes it lighter; but letting the fabrics lay
a few hours exposed to the oxygen before tins-
ing is an im rovement to the color. This color
must be wel washed or else it will smut. This
blue will be brighter if aniline purple be used for
darkening, instead of logwood; but this ought to
be done after the oods have been washed, and
in fresh water. I a mordant of 10 ounds nitric
acid, 36° 13., 10 pounds muriatic acrd, 22° B., 10
pounds sulphuric acid, 66° B., diluted with wa-
ter, and 1 pound feathered tin added, be used,
instead of sulphuric acid, the color will be fast.

BLUE DYE, PRUSSIAN (For Cotton). —
1. Clean the cloth or goods by steeping in soap-
suds, then rinse in several different messes of
clean water, and lay aside moist.

2. Into a clean iron, stoneware, or wooden
vessel put the amount of clean warm water
deemed necessary to work the cloth or goods in
easily, and add the solution of pernitrate of iron,
and mix well by stirring with a wooden rod;
after which put in the still moist cloth or goods,
and work them forty-five minutes or longer, and
let them lie in till the next bath is ready.

3. Into another clean stoneware, iron or wood-
en vessel put the amount of clean warm water
deemed necessary to work the goods in easily,
and add the prussiate of potash (previously dis-
solved in a little hot water in a basin or kettle),
and also the oil of vitriol, and mix well by stir-
ring with a clean, wooden rod; then wring out
the goods evenly from the pernitrate of iron
bath, and work them in this prussiate of potash
bath twenty minutes; after which wring out and
work again a few minutes in the pernitrate of
iron bath; then wring out, rinse in several dif-
ferent messes of clean water, and dry in the
shade.

If the color of the goods should not be dark
enough after one round of dippings, repeat in the
order above described, till the shade suits. The
whole of the goods need not be dried after each
round of clippings for the urpqse of examining
the color. Dry one end of) the goods, or a small
piece. A handsomer shade of blue can be ob-
tained, if the expense can be afforded, by adding
to the pernitrate of iron bath two ounces b
weight of solution of protochloride of tin for each
pound of goods to be dyed. Strong vinegar can

e used in the prussiate of potash bath in place
of oil of vitriol, but the blue color will not be so
handsome. If vinegar is used, three or four
pints should be added to the russiate of potash

ath for each pound of goo s, and a portion of
the water equal to the vinegar should be omitted.

A single pound of cotton goods requires about

four gallons of water in each bath to work it in

 

34!

easily. Larger quantities of these goods do not
need quite so much water in proportion.

The utensils used with this dye should be
cleaned first with potash lye, then with water,
afterwards with hot vinegar, and lastly with clean
water.

The use of brass or copper vessels in this dye
is to be avoided.

BLUE, PURPLE. —-A curious purple was
very fashionable about twenty-five years ago.
100 pounds of wool were first dipped alight blue
in the vat, and well rinsed. Then take a stone
pot, put in 3 pounds of half-refined tartar, 3
pounds of feathered tin, 5 pounds of blue vitriol,
and 20 pounds of muriatic acid; heat all in a sand
bath until dissolved.

From this mordant take 10 pounds in a suit-
able kettle; add 5 pounds half-refined tartar to
it, stir it well, and enter the wool at 170° Fah. ;
let it boil for one hour; take it out, cool, and let
it lay for twenty-four hours. Then boil out 20
pounds of good logwood for three uarters of an
hour in fresh water; cool off the ettle to 150°
F ah., enter the wool, and handle it well for half
an hour, then beat it up to 185° F ah., but let it
not boil; let it go for one hour more, when it
will be a dark purple. This color stands the sun
remarkably well, perhaps owing to the fact that
there is not any alum or sulphuric acid used, ex-
cept that contained in the blue vitriol.

BL UE, PURPLE (Fart Color).-—IOO pounds
of wool are first dipped in the blue vat to a light
shade, then boiled in a solution of 15 pounds of
alum and 3 pounds of half-refined tartar, for one
hour and a half; the wool taken out, cooled, and
let stand twenty-four hours. Then boil in fresh
water 8 pounds of powdered cochineal for a few
minutes; cool the kettle to 170° Fah. ; handle
the prepared wool in this for one hour, in which
time let it boil for three quarters of an hour,
when it is ready to cool, rinse, and dry. By
coloring first with cochineal, as aforesaid, and
finishing in the blue vat, the fast pur le or dahlia,
so much admired in German broadc oths, willbe
produced. Tin acids must not be used in this
color.

BLUE, SAX ON.— 100 pounds of thibet or
comb yarn, 20 pounds of alum, 3 pounds of
cream of tartar, 2 pounds of mordant, 3 pounds
of extract of indigo, or 1 pound of carmine in-
stead; the latter makes a better color. When
all is dissolved, cool the kettle to 180° F ah. ;
enter and handle quickly at first, then let it boil
half an hour, or until even. If the fabric be not
scoured clean, it will look shady; and about 5.
pounds of common salt added will remedy this.‘
Remember, long boiling dims the color. Zephyr
worsted yarn ought to be prepared first by boil-
ing it in a solution of alum and sulphuric acid,
then the indigo added afterwards. For common
coarse carpet yarn, it is only necessary to handle
it through a hot dye of 175" Fah., containing 15
pounds of alum, 10 pounds of sulphuric acid, 4
pounds of chemic paste, to 100 pounds of yarn,
or through its equivalent of extract of indigo. If
chemic be used, the dye ought not to come to a
boil, otherwise the im urities of the indigo will
color the yarn and dull’its brilliancy. Rinse well
in water before drying. The tin acid fastens the
color somewhat. It will not fade so easily, nor
run into the white, if wove into fiannels, which
have to be scoured in soap, and bleached. The
color changes in the sulphur house into a stone

342

green shade, but the original color comes back
again when the fabric is rinsed again in water.

BL UE (SKI) DYE for Cotton.—For 3. lbs.
goods—blue vitriol 4 02.; boil a few minutes;
then dip the goods 3 hours, after which pass
them through strong lime water. You can make
this color a beautiful brown by putting the goods
through a solution of prussiate of potash.

BLEA GIVING—The operation by which the
natural colors of substances are discharged, and
they become white or colorless. Bleaching may
be performed either by natural means, as expos-
ure to light, air, and moisture, or by chemical
agents, as chlorine, chloride of lime, sulphurous
acid, etc. In many of the processes adopted for
this purpose, both methods are combined.

BLEA CHIN G C 0 TTOM—Cotton, from its
original whiteness, and little attraction for color-
ing matter, is more easily bleached than most
other substances. 0n the old plan, it is first well
washed in warm water to remove the weaver’s
paste or dressing, then “bucked” (boiled) in a
weak alkaline lye, and after being well washed
is spread out upon the grass, or bleaching ground,
and freely exposed to the joint action of light, air,
and moisture. The operation of “bucking” and
exposure is repeated as often as necessary, when
the goods are “soured” or immersed in water
acidulated with sulphuric acid, after which they
receive a thorough washing in clean water, and
are dried. From the length of the exposure upon
the bleaching ground, this method has been found
to injure the texture of the cloth, and from the
number of operations required, necessarily be-
comes expensive, and produces considerable de-
lay; it has therefore very generally given place to
the improved system of chemical bleaching, by
means of chloride of lime. In this method, after
the first operation of washing and bucking, as in
the common process, the cotton is submitted to
the action of weak solutions of chloride of lime,
and afterwards passed through soured water,
when it has only to be thoroughly washed and

dried.

BLEA CHIN G LINEN-Linen is bleached
in a similar way to cotton, but the operation is
more troublesome, from its greater affinity for
coloring matter.

BLEA CHIN G W GOD—Wool is first ex-
posed to the joint action of fuller’s earth and soap,
in the fulling mill, to remove adherent grease
and dirt, and is then well washed and dried, when
it is usually found sufficiently white for the pur-
poses of the dyer; but should the slight yellow
tint it retains prove ob‘ectionable, it is run through
water tinged blue wrth indigo, or it is ex sed
to the fumes of burning sulphur ; the atter
method gives it a harsh feel, which is best re—
moved by a bath of soap and water, but this will
reproduce its previous yellowishness.

BLEA CHING SILAT—Silk is bleached by
boiling it in white soap and water, to remove the
natural yellow varnish that covers it, after which
it is subjected to repeated rinsings. Articles that
are required to be very white, as gloves, stock-
ings, etc., are also submitted to the action of sul-
phurous acid, or the fumes of burning sulphur.

BL UE and PURPLE DYE jbr Star/ting
Yuma—For 5lbs. of wool, bichromate of potash
I 02.; alum 2 02.; dissolve them and bring the
water to a boil, putting in the wool and boiling 1
hour; then throw away the dye and make an-

‘ 9ther dye with logwood chips 1 lb., or extract of

‘ where it has once been placed.

 

. DICTIONARY 0F EVER Y-DA Y WANTS.

logwood 2% oz., and boil I hour.
works very prettily on silk.

Whenever you make a dye with logwood chips,
either boil the chips % hour and pour off the dye,
or tie up the chips in a bag and boil with the
wool or other goods, or take 2% oz. of the extract
in place of I lb. of the chips is less trouble and
generally the better plan. In the above recipe
the more logwood that is used the darker will be
the shade.

B ORA X, Virtut: of.——It may not be generally
known how very valuable borax is in various
purposes of household use. We find it the very
best cockroach exterminator yet discovered.
One half pound costing but fifty cents, has com-
pletely cleared a large house formerly swarming
with them, so that the appearance of one in a
month is quite a novelty. The various extermi-
nating powders puffed and advertised have been
found not fully effective, tending rather to make
the roaches crazy than to kill them. There is

This also

. something peculiar, either in the smell or touch

of borax, which is certain death to them. They
will flee in terror from it, and never appear again
It is also a great
advantage that borax is perfectly harmless to

. human beings, hence no danger from poisoning.

It is also valuable for laundry purposes.

The washerwomen of Holland and Belgium,
so proverbially clean, and who get their linen so
beautifully white, use refined borax as washing-
powder, instead of soda, in the proportion of a
large handful of borax powder to ten gallons of
water. They save soap nearly one-half. All the
large washing establishments adopt the same
mode. For laces, cambrics, etc., an extra quantity
of the powder is used; and for crinolines (re-
quiring to be made stiff) a stronger solution is ~
necessary. Borax, being a neutral salt, does not
in the slightest degree injure the texture of linen.
Its effect is to soften the hardest water, and
therefore it should be kept on the toilet table.
As a way of cleansing the hair, nothing is better
than a solution of borax in water. It leaves the
scalp in a most cleanly condition, and the hair is
just sufficiently stiffened to retain its place. 'This
stiffness, however, can be readily removed, it _
objectionable, by washing with water. Borax is
also an excellent dentifrice; dissolved in water,
it is one of the best tooth-washes. In hot coun-
tries it is used, in combination with tartaric acid
and bicarbonate of soda, as a cooling beverage.

BRO/1 DCLO T1], T 0 Rumor/e Stains/7mm—
Take an ounce of pipe-clay, that has been ground
fine, and mix it with twelve drops of alcohol, and
the same quantity of spirits of turpentine. When-
ever you wish to remove any stains from cloth,
moisten a little of this mixture with alcohol, and
rub it on the spots. Let it remain till dry, then
rub it off with a woolen cloth, and the spots Will
disappear. .

BRO W'N D YE.—The different shades of this
dye vary from pale yellow and reddish brown, up
to very dark brown, almost black, every shade of
which, however, may be produced as the taste of
the workman may dictate, by mixtures of reds
and yellows with blues and blacks, or by Simple
dyes, which at once impart a brown,—as catechu,
walnut rinds, or oxide of manganese. .

BROWN DYE for Waol.—I. B011 the cloth
in a mordant of alum and common salt dissolv-
ed in water, then dye it in a bath of logwood, to
which a little green copperas has been added._

 

WASHING, BLERI CHING ArVD DYEING.

343

 

The proportion of alum should be 2 02., and of
salt, I 02., to every pound of cloth.

2. Boil the goods in a mordant of alum and ‘

sulphate of iron, then wince them through a bath
of madder. Remarks. The tint depends on the
relative proportions of the alum and copperas;
the more of the latter, the darker will be the dye.
The joint weight of the two should not exceed %;
of the weight of the wool. The best proportions
are 2 arts of alum and 3 of copperas.

3. ive the wool a mordant of alum and tartar,
then pass it through a madder bath, which will
dye it red. It must now be run through a black
bath of galls and sumach, or logwood, to which
a little acetate or sulphate of iron has been
added.

4, Proceed to mordant the cloth as last, and
dye in a madder bath, then remove it and add a
little acetate or sulphate of iron, and again pass
it through the bath, until the required tint is pro-
duced.

5. Give the cloth a light blue ground with in-
digo, then give it a mordant with alum, wash in
water, and run it through a bath of madder.

6. Give the cloth a mordant of alum and tartar,
then pass it through a madder bath, and after-
wards through a bath of weld or fustic, to which
a little iron liquor has been previously added.
In this way every shade from mordoré and cin-
namon to dark chestnut may be dyed.

7. Boil I lb. of fustic chips for 2 hours, and

ass the cloth through the bath for 1 hour, take
It out and drain, then add 1% oz. of green cop-
peras, and % 1b. of good madder, and pass the
cloth again through the bath, until the proper
tint is produced. This makes bronze browns,
but by varying the proportion of the mordant,
other shades may be produced.

BROWN DYE, for Silk—I. Give the silk
8 mordant as before described, then dye in a bath
made b mixing the equal parts of decoction of
logwoo , fustic, and Brazil wood. The shade
may be varied by mixing the decoctions in dif-
ferent proportions. Brazil wood reddening, log-
wood darkening, and fustic yellowing, the
tint.

' 2. Dissolve 4 oz. of annotto and 1 lb. of pearl-
ash in boiling water, and pass the silk through it
for 2 hours, then take it out, squeeze it well and
dry; next give it a mordant of alum, and pass it
first through a bath of Brazil wood, and after-
wards through a bath of logwood, to which a
little green copperas has been added; wring it
out and dry; afterwards rinse well.

BROWN DYE, for Cotton amt Linm.—I.
Give the pieces a mixed mordant of acetate of
alumina and acetate of iron, and then dye them
in a bath of madder, or madder and fustic. When
the acetate of alumina predominates, the dye has
an amaranth tint. The iron darkens it.

2. First gall the goods, then turn them for a
short time through a black bath, next give them a
mordant of sulphate of copper, and pass them
through a decoction of fustic, afterwards through
a bath of madder, and again through the solution
of sultphate of copper; drain, dry, and rinse well,
then nish with a boil in soap and water. This
gives a chestnut brown.

3. First give a mordant of alum, then pass the
goods through a madder bath, and next through a
bath of fustic, to which a little green copperas
has been added. This gives a cinnamon brown.

BROWN DYES, DIREC'ZZ—Browns may

 

be also dyed at once, by what are called substan-
tive or direct dyes ; thus——

I. Decoctz'on of oak oar}: dyes wool a fast
brown of various shades, according to the quan-
tity employed. If the cloth be first passed
through a mordant of alum, the color is bright-
ened.

2. Infusion or decoction of walnut peels dyes
wool and silk abrown, which, like the preceding,
is brightened by alum. The older the liquor the
better.

3. Horro-tfieytmttpeels also give a brown. A
mordant of muriate of tin turns it on the bronze,
and sugar of lead the reddish brown.

4. Cater/22¢, or term japom'ra, gives cotton a
brown dye; blue vitriol turns it on the bronze,
green copperas darkens it, when applied as a
mordant, and the stuff dyed in the bath boiling
hot. Acetate of alumina as a mordant brightens
it. The French color, called “carmelite,” is
given with I lb. of catechu, 4 oz. of verdigris,
and 5 oz. of sal ammoniac.

5. Suzy/rate or muriate of manganese, dissolved
in water with a little tartaric acid, gives the
bronze tint called “solitaire.” The stuff after
being passed through the solution, must be turn-
ed through a weak lye of potash, and afterwards
through another of chloride of lime, to brighten
and fix it.

6. Prurrz'ate (f copper gives a bronze or yel-
lowish-brown to silk. The piece well mordanted
with blue vitriol, may be passed through a solu.
tion Ofprmriate of polar/2. .

BROWN DYE, CHEAP.—The following
is a good dye for coloring brown, composed of
materials easily procurable in the woods : Take
the bark of the common alder, boil it an hour;
having sufficient water to cover the goods ; add a
very little copperas; dip in the articles to be
colored; let them remain about ten minutes ;
wring them out, and then dip them into a very
weak lye—previously prepared—wring them out
immediately, and wash them in soap and soft
water.

BUFF DYE, on Cotton—Take as much hot
fustic liquor and water, as will half fill a tub,
enter three pieces, give them five ends, hedge
out, take another tub of. cold lime water, enter
the same pieces, and give them five ends in this,
take out, and in a short time they Will be buff.
Renew your first and second tub, and proceed as
at first. This is all required for buff.

CA 1.1 COES, To Wash—Black calicoes should
be washed in water in which potatoes have been
boiled, or starch water made by having two or
three potatoes scraped in it; or pour boiling wa-
ter on wheat bran, strain it, and when lukewarm
wash them in it, using no soap. Before wetting
any calico, rub soap on the crease spots—hard
soap, or soft soap a year old. Alum is good- to
set the color of green ; salt put in the rins-
ing water of blue, black or green calico, will
prevent the colors running into each other.
Some washerwomen infuse eight gills of salt in
{our quarts of boiling water, and put the calicoes
in while hot, leaving them until cold, which pro-
cess is to render the colors permanent, so. they
will not fade by subsequent washing. Cotton
goods (except pure white) should never remain
in water a moment longer than necessary, and
should be dried in the shade.

CARPET WARP, Coloring for. -— Extract
of hemlock bark is the substance. required. Wet

n 1

344

the warp thoroughly with lime water, then boil
in a strong liquor made by dissolving extract of
hemlock bark in water. Use a brass, copper,
or porcelain kettle (not iron or tin); this gives a
tan color. For a black color use strong copperas
water in place of lime water. Iron or tin vessels
will answer when copperas is used. A slate
color can be made by using a small quantity of
the copperas water and extract liquor to a large
quantity of the warp.
made by using only a small portion of copperas
with the extract. The shades of color can be
changed by varying the amount and proportion
of the coloring materials. A little care will
enable any one to make desirable colors with
these materials, and to modify the colors by using
other substances with them. The extract of
hemlock bark is very extensively used by tanners
for makingleather, and is made at large establish-
ments for the purpose located in or near the hem-
lock forests.

CHIN T Z, T a Wash-Take 2 lbs. of rice,
boil it in 2 galls. of water till soft ; then pour the
whole into a tub; let it stand till about the
warmth in general used for colored linens; then
put the chintz in, and use the rice instead of
soap; wash it in this till the dirt appears to be
out, then boil the same quantity as above, but
strain the rice from the water, and mix it in
warm clear water. Wash in this till quite clean;
afterwards rinse it in the water which the rice
has been boiled in, and this will answer the end
of starch, and no dew will affect it. If a gown
it must be taken to pieces, and when dried be
careful to hang it as smooth as possible ; after it
is dry rub it with a sleek stone, but use no iron.

CHROAIE ORANGE DYE, for White Cat-
ton Goods. — I. Clean the cloth or goods by
steeping in soap-suds, then rinse in several dif-
ferent messes of clean water, and lay aside moist.

2. Put the litharge and acetate of lead into a
brass or copper kettle, with only one fourth part
of the water that will afterwards be required to
dye the cloth or goods in, and boil together
thirty minutes or longer, stirring often with a
wooden rod; then add hot water till the amount
is reached that is needed to work the cloth or
goods in easily, and stir till thoroughly mixed,
after which put in the still moist cloth or goods,
and let them remain at a blood-heat thirty min-
utes or longer, stirring often.

3. Put the bichromate of potash and sal soda
into a brass, copper, or iron kettle, with only
one-fourth part of the water that will afterwards
be needed to dye the cloth or goods in, and boil
together at a full wallop thirty minutes or longer;
then add hot water till the amount is reached
that is required to work the goods in easily, after
which wring out the goods evenly from the
acetate of lead bath, and work them in this chro-
mate of potash and soda bath, at a blood-heat,
from fifteen to thirty minutes, or until the goods
take on an even and full orange color; then re-
move from the bath, rinse in several different
messes of clean water, and dry, in the shade or
in sunshine.

If the color on the goods is not even, or not
dark enough, after they have been steeped once
in each bath, repeat the steepings or workings in
both baths in the order above described. In
every repetition of these steepings, should any
repetition be necessary, a little fresh sal soda
shOuld be procured and added to the chromate of

A brown color can be,

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

potash and soda bath, and the whole should
be well boiled before introducing the cloth or
goods.

A single pound of cotton cloth or goods re—
quires about four gallons of water in each kettle
or bath to work it in easily when dyeing. Larger
quantities of these goods do not need quite so
much water in proportion.

Kettles or utensils that have been used with
this dye may be cleaned, first with water, then
with warm or hot potash-lye, aml lastly with
clean water.

DYE -S T UFES needed fir one pound of
GUUdJ‘.—-T\\'O ounces of litharge in a paper by it~
self, 8.: Litharge for chrome orange. One and
a half ounces of acetate of lead in a paper by it.
self, S. : Acetate of lead for chrome orange One
and a half ounces of sal soda in a paper by itself,
8.: Sal soda for chrome orange. One and a
quarter ounces of bichromate of potash in a pa-
per by itself, S.: Bichromate of potash for
chrome orange. All of these articles should be
very accurately weighed. As customers rarel
or never possess scales and weights with which
they can accurately divide parcels of dye-stuffs,
nor kettles in which they can dye more than
three pounds of goods at one time with this color,
it will be best to put up these dye-studs in sets
for three pounds of goods, or less. For instance,
should a customer wish chrome orange dyes for
five pounds of goods, it would be advisable to
put up one set of dyes for three pounds of goods,
and another set for two pounds. Each set, in
such a case, should be put in a wrapper by itself,
and labeled, respectively, “Chrome orange dyes
for three pounds of goods,”and“Chrome orange
dyes for two pounds of goods.”

To save time, the litharge and acetate of lead
can sometimes be both put into one package,
with the name of each article written upon it;
but the bichromate of potash and sal soda must
each be put into a paper by itself. Bichromate
of potash and sal soda react upon one another
when mixed if either salt is damp, and produce
a deliquescent salt that soon destroys the paper
wrap er.

CIJVNAMON BROWN AND COFFEE
BROWN DYES, for Cotton—I. Clean the
cloth or goods by steeping in soap-suds, then
rinse in several different messes of clean water,
and lay aside moist. The preliminar washing
just described will be sufficient for 01 or worn
goods; but new cloth or yarn, or carpet-warp.
which almost always contain more or less oil
from.the spinning, must be cleaned inabath
made by dissolving a half ounce of hard soap and
a half ounce of sal soda in each gallon of water
needed for the steeping or washing. After the
goods have been thus cleaned, they are to be
well rinsed in clean water, and laid aside moist.

2. Steep the catechu and blue vitriol, from one
to two hours, in a brass or copper kettle, with
the amount of clean water deemed necessary to
work the cloth or goods in easily, stirring often
with a wooden rod; then put in the still moist
cloth or goods, and steep at a scalding heat from
five to ten hours, or until the goods take on an
even, cinnamon brown color. The goods are to
be stirred frequently during this stee mg, and
hot water is to be added to the kettle rom time
to time, to compensate for loss by steam. After
the goods have taken on acinnamon brown color.
remove them from the bath, rinse in several

WASHING, BLEA CHING AND DYEIJVG.

different messes of clean water, and lay aside
moist.

3. Dissolve the bichromate of potash, by heat,
in a brass, copper, or iron kettle, with the
amount of clean water deemed necessary to work
the cloth or goods in easily; then put in the still
moist cloth or goods, and steep at a scalding heat
one hour or longer, or until the goods take on a
coffee brown color; after which remove from the
bath, rinse in several different messes of clean
water, and dry in the shade.

If the color on the goods should not be dark
enough, after they have been steeped once in
each bath, repeat the steepings in both baths, 1n
the order above directed, till the shade suits;
then rinse in several different messes of clean
water, and dry in the shade.

If the goods should not take on any color after
steeped from one to two hours in the catechu
bath, it may be concluded that they still contain
grease or oil. In such a case the goods must be
lifted from the bath, drained well, rinsed in clean
water, and then steeped in a fresh bath of soap
and sal soda; after which they are to be rinsed
in clean water, and then returned to the catechu
bath, and steeped again.

When ouly a cinnamon brown color is desired,
the steeping in the bichromate of potash bath
may be omitted, and the goods may be rinsed
and dried from the catechu bath. If a coffee
brown color is desired, druggists must be re-
quested to put up the appropriate quantity of
bichromate of potash, as without this request, in
each case, druggists do not put up that article.

A single pound of cotton goods requires about
four gallons of water in each bath to work it in
easily, when dyeing; larger quantities of these
goods do not need quite so much water in pro-
portion.

Dye Stuji' needed/"or one Pound of Goods.—
Two ounces of dark-colored catechu (or cutch) in
a paper by itself, S. Cater/m for brown on cot—
ton. One-fourth ounce of blue vitriol in a paper
by itself, S. Blue vitriol for (Frown on eotton.
When a coffee brown dye is desired, put up,
in a paper by itself, a half ounce of bichromate
of potash, S. Bie/zromate offpotar/l for drown on
cotton. For three pounds 0 goods, coffee brown
shade, put up only one ounce of bichromate of
potash, and for all quantities of goods above
three pounds, put up only a third of an ounce of
that salt for each pound. Time can be saved
when dyeing these browns by making the cat-
echu bath stronger than here directed, and if cus-
tomers wish to shorten the processes, put up
three or even four ounces of dark catechu for
each pound of goods. One-eighth of an ounce
of blue vitriol must be put up for each ounce of
catechu that is taken.

CLOTII, Cleaning and Seourz'ng of.—The
common method of cleaning cloth is by beating
and brushing, unless when very dirty, when it
undergoes the operation of scouring. This is
best done on the small scale, as for articles of
wearing apparel, etc., by dissolving a little curd
soap in water, and, after mixing it with a little
oxgall, to touch over all the spots of grease, dirt,
etc., with it, and to rub them well with a stiff
brush until they are removed, after which the
article may be well rubbed all over with a brush
or sponge dipped into some warm water, to
whic the previous mixture and a little more ox-

gall has been added. When this has been pro-

 

345

perly done, it only remains to thoroughly rinse
the article in clean water until the latter passes
off uncolored, when it must be hung up to dry.
For dark-colored cloths the common practice is
to add some fuller’s earth to the mixture of soap
and gall. When nearly dry, the nap should be
laid right, and the article carefully pressed, after
which a brush, moistened with a drop or two of
olive oil, should be several times passed over it,
which will give it a superior finish. Cloth may
also be cleaned in the dry way as follows :—
First, remove the spots as above, and, when the
parts have dried, strew clean damp sand over it,
and beat it in with a brush, after which brush the
article with a hard brush, when the sand will
readily come out, and bring the dirt with it.
Black cloth which is very rusty, should receive a.
coat of reviver after drying, and be hung up until
the next day, when it may be pressed and finish-
ed off as before. Scarlet cloth requires consider.
able caution. After being thoroughly rinsed, it
should be repeatedly passed through cold spring
water, to which a tablespoonful or two of solu-
tion of tin has been added. If much faded, it
should be clipped in a scarlet dye-bath. Buff
cloth is generally cleaned by covering it with a
paste made with pipe-clay and water, which,
when dry, is rubbed and brushed off.

CLOTH, To Raise t/ze M41” on.-- Soak in
cold water for % an hour, then put on a board,
and rub the thread-bare parts with a half-worn
hatter’s card, filled with flocks, or with a prickly
thistle, until a nap is raised. Hang up to dry,
and with a hard brush lay the nap the right

wa .
gLOTH'S, Fuller’s Pun'fierfln—Dry. pul-
verize, and sift the following ingredients:

Six lbs. of fuller’s earth, I 1b. of pipe clay, and
4 oz. of French chalk.

Make a paste of the above with the following:
One oz. of rectified oil of turpentine, 2 oz. of
spirit of wine, and 1% lbs. of melted oil soap.

Make up the compound into six-penny or shil-
ling cakes for sale. These cakes are to be kept
in water, or in small wooden boxes.

CLOTHES (Black), To dean. --—- Clean the
garments well, then boil four ounces of logwood
in a boiler or copper containing two or three gal-
Ions of water, for half an hour. Dip the clothes
in warm water, and squeeze dry; then put them
into the copper and boil for half an hour. Take
them out, and add three drachms of sulphate of
iron; boil for half an hour, then take them out,
and hang them up for an hour or two; take them
down, rinse them in three cold waters, dry well
and rub with a soft brush which has had a few
drops of olive oil rubbed on its surface. If the
clothes are threadbare about the elbows, cuffs,
etc., raise the nap with a teazel or half worn hat-
ter’s card, filled with flocks, and when sufficiently
raised, lay the nap the right way with a hard brush.
We have seen our old coats come out with a
wonderful dash of respectability after this oper-
ation.

C LOT HS (Black), To Revive when Faded.—
Boil three ounces of logwood in a quart of vinegar,
and when the color is extracted, drop in a piece
of carbonate iron the size of a large chestnut;
let it boil five minutes. Have the articles to
be restored well sponged with soap and hot wa-
ter, lying them on the table, and brush the nap
down with a sponge. Then take the dye upon
the table and sponge them all over with it, tak-

346

DICTIONARY OF EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

ing care to keep them smooth, and brush down-
ward. .

When completely wet with the dye, dissolve a
teaspoonful of saleratus in a teacup of warm wa-
ter, and sponge over again with this, which sets
the color so completely that nothing rubs off.
They must not be wrung or wrinkled but care-
fully hung up to drain. The brownest cloth
may be made a perfect black in this simple man-
ner. So many people have faded garments that
this recipe may be of service in restoring them
to a lively color.

CLOT HS, A Liquid to Extract Grease from.
-—Take one peek of lime; add thereto as much
water as will dissolve the lime and leave about
two gallons of clear water after it has been well
stirred and settled. Let it stand about two hours,
and then pour off the clear liquid into another
vessel. Now add to it three ounces of pearlash
for every gallon of the liquid, stir it well, and,
when settled, bottle it for use. This liquor is to
be diluted with water, to suit the strength or
delicacy of the color of the cloth. It is applied
with a piece of coarse sponge, rubbing out the
grease, and applying clear water afterwards.

COUNTERIMNES ( White) and CALICO
QUILT S, To Wink—Wash them in the same
way as blankets, only with hard soap, and rinse
them in cold water. If convenient, it is the best
way to take them to apump, and pump upon
them and pour off the water again and again, till
it is clear; then wring them and hang them on
the line. In this way one wringing is saved,
which is well, for it is some of the hardest work
that is done. The heaviest kind of counterpanes,
especially if they are large, should be rinsed at a
pump, and taken in the tub to the clothes-line,
and put upon it without wringing.

C 0.4 T, To Clean. —-—-First clean the coat of
grease and dirt, then take one gallon of a strong
decoction of logwood made by boiling logwood
chips in water. Strain this liquid, and when
cool, add two ounces of gum Arabic in powder,
which should be kept in well-stopped bottles for
use. Then go gently over the coat with a sponge
wet in the above liquid diluted to suit the color,
and hang it in the shade to dry. After which
brush the nap smooth, and it will look as good
as new. The liquid will suit all brown or dark
colors if properly diluted, of which it is easy to
judge.

C 0/1 T C OLLARS, To Clean.—.For cleaning
coat collars and all woolen goods I recommend
the Soap-tree Bark, which can be procured at the
drug stores. Break a piece about two inches
square, into small bits, and pour over it a half
pint of boiling water; let it stand an hour or two,
then sponge the collar well with the liquor; a
second sponging with clear water will clean it
nicely. Both washing and rinsing water should
be as warm as for flannel. We have by using
this bark washed black and blue Empress cloths
successfully and have cleaned hair cloth chairs,
which had been soiled by contact with the head.

C 0 TT 01V, To Remove Ali/dew from. — For
removing mildew from cotton cloth, mix soft
soap and salt till stiff, rub on the mildewed
places, and lay in the hot sun, leaving it out
night and day, but taking great care the cloth
thoroughly dries during the day, or it may mil-
dew in other places.

CRAPE (Bloc/e), To Remove Water Stain:
from—When a drop of water falls on a black

 

crape veil or collar, it leaves a conspicuous white
mark. To obliterate this, spread the crape on a
table (laying on it a large book or a paper-weight
to keep it steady), and place underneath the stain
a piece of old black silk. With a large camel’s-
hair brush dipped in common ink, go over the
stain; and then wipe off the ink with a little bit
of old soft silk. It will dry immediately, and
the white mark will be seen no more.

CRAPE, To Renew wlzen Olrl. —-Wind the
crape smoothly about a round stick a foot long
—-the end of a broom handle will do—and pin it.
Have ready a tea kettle with water in it, boiling.
Pass the stick with the crape on it back and forth
in front of the spout, until the crape is thorough-
ly steamed, but not until it is wet with moisture.
Then slip it off the stick, leaving it in the roll
until fully dry. This process also renews the
color. If the crape is very old and dingy, the
success is not so gratifying.

CRIMSON DYE.-—One ounce cream tartar,
two of alum, one of cochineal—two drachms sal-
ammoniac, four of pearlash or soda, six ounces
wheat bran. Take a brass kettle with four gal-
lons of soft water—when scalded, put in the
cream-tartar and alum—let it boil—put in the
cloth, and stir occasionally for an hour; take out
the cloth, rinse in cool water, and air it; empty
the kettle and put in as much water as before;
add the bran tied in a bag, take off the scum
which rises while it heats; take out the bag, add
the cochineal, boil, put in the cloth, stir for an
hour, rinse in cold water; then empty the water,
put in as much of clean as before, warm, add the
sal-ammoniac, put in the cloth. stir five minutes,
then drain; now add the pearlash and mix it, again
put in the cloth, stir for ten minutes, take out, air,
rinse—the color will be permanent and beautiful.

CURTAINS, To Clean. —— Never iron lace
window curtains, and be careful not to make them
blue with indigo. Stretch them upon a mattress
to dry, pinning down carefully the extreme edge
of every point or scallo .

DRESSES, 1710 URNING', To Reslore when
Faded.—Take two pints of water, and boil in it
the following ingredients until it is reduced to
one pint: two ounces of Aleppo galls, in powder;
two ounces of logwood; one ounce of gum Arabic ;
then add one ounce of sulphate of iron. Let it
evaporate to a powder. Anot/zer receipt—Gall,
eight ounces ; logwood, one ounce; green vitriol,
one ounce; iron filings, one ounce; sumac, one
ounce; vinegar, one quart.

DRESSES, To Preserve t/ze Color ofI—The
colors of merinos, mousseline de laines, ging-
hams, chintzes, printed lawns, etc., may be pre- -
served by using water that is onl milk warm;
making a lather with white soap be ore you put in
the dress, instead of rubbing it on the material;
and stirring into a first and second tub of water
a large tablespoonful of ox gall. The gall can be
obtained from the butcher, and a bottle of it
should always be kept in every house. N 0 col-
ored articles should be allowed to remain long in
the water. They must be washed fast, and then
rinsed through two cold waters. Into each rins-
ing water, stir a teaspoonful of vinegar, '“hich
will help to brighten the colors ; and after rmstng,
hang them out immediately. When ironing-dry
(or still a little damp), bring them in; haveirons
ready heated, and iron them at once, as it in-
jures the colors to allow them to remain damp
too long, or to sprinkle and roll them up ma.

 

WASHING, BLEACHING AND DYEING.'

covering for ironing next day. If they cannot
be conveniently ironed immediately let them
hang till they are uite dry ; and then damp and
fold them on the ollowing day, a quarter of an
hour before ironing. The best way is not to do
colored dresses on the day of the general wash,
but to give them a morning by themselves. They
should only be undertaken in clear bright weath-
er. If allowed to freeze, the colors will be irre-
parably injured. We need scarcely say that no
colored articles should ever be boiled or scalded.
If you get from a shop a slip for testing the du-
rability of colors, give it a fair trial by washing
it as above: afterwards, pinning it to the edge of
a towel, and hanging it to dry. Some colors,
(especially pinks and light greens), though they
may stand perfectly well in washing, Will change
as soon as a warm iron is applied to them; the

ink turning purplish, and the green bluish.
£10 colored article should be smoothed with a
hot iron.

DRAB DYE, DARK, fiJr I/Vaolm Yarn.—
Boil one-eighth of a pound of green tea, in one
quart of water. When the strength is out, add
one-fourth of a teaspoonful of copperas. Place
the yarn in while warm.

DRAB DYE, SIL VER (Lz'g/zt).—For 5
lbs. goods—alum, I small teaspoon, and log-
wood about the same amount; boil well together,
then dip the goods I hour; if not dark enough,
add in equal quantities alum and logwood, until
suited.

D YEING.——-The art of fixing coloring matters
uniformly and permanently in the fibres of wool,
silk, linen, cotton, and other substances. Dyeing
is a chemical process, and the mode of its per-
formance depends upon the substance operated
on. Thus, it is found that the process by which
wool is dyed black, would only impart a rusty
brown to linen. Wool unites with almost all
coloring matters with great facility, silk in the
next degree, cotton less easily than Silk, and
linen with even more difficulty. Preparatory to
the operation of dyeing, each of these substances
undergoes 9. Species of preparation to free the
fibres from adhering foreign matters, as dirt,
grease, etc., which would prevent the absorption
of the aqueous fluid to be afterwards applied, as
well as impair the brilliancy of the edge. Wool
is cleaned or scoured by means of a weak alkaline
lye, soap and water, or putrid urine; the latter
being very generally used for this purpose. Silk
is cleaned from the natural varnish that covers
it, by boiling with white soap and water. Cotton
and linen are cleaned with alkaline lyes of more
or less density. The substances so prepared are
ready to undergo the various operations of dye-

among the various coloring materials employ-
ed by dyers, some impart their tints to different
substances by sim le immersion in their infusions
or decoctions, an have hence been called “sub-
istantive colors”; but by far the greater number
only impart a fugitive dye, unless the fibres of
the stuff have been previously filled with some
substance, which has a strong affinity for the lat-
ter on the one hand, and the coloring material
on the other. The substances applied with this
intention are called “Mordants”, and generally
exercise the double property of “fixing” and
“striking” the color. Thus, if calico be dyed
with a decoction of madder, it will only receive

a fugitive and dirty red tinge, but if it be first

 

-347

run through a solution of acetate of alumina,
dried at a high temperature, washed, and then
run through a madder batli‘, it will come out of
a permanent and lively red. The principal
mordants are the acetates of iron and alumina,
sulphate of iron, alum, and some other chemical
salts. A perfect knowledge of the behavior of
mordants, with different coloring substances, is
of paramount importance to the dyer.

After having received the proper mordants,
the goods are dried and rinsed, after which they
are passed for a shorter or longer time through
an infusion, decoction, or solution of dyeing mate-
rials, which constitute the “dye-bath”; they are
again dried and rinsed. In many cases, the im-
mersion in the dye-bath is repeated, either with
the same materials or with others to vary or mo-
dify the color. After the substances have been
properly dyed, they are subjected to a thorough
rinsing or washing in soft water, until the latter
runs off uncolored.

D YEIZVG will; Add: in Bras: fillies—The
substance of the vessel in which articles are to
be dyed is of considerable importance, especially
where acid solutions are employed. Brass kettles
are most generally used for such operations ; but
scarlet, as well as some other dyes, in which
acids are used, can not well be introduced into
such a vessel. Reimann’s Journal of Dyeing ad-
vises, in this case, that half an ounce of quick-
silver sublimate for every ten or fifteen pounds of
wool to be dyed be firstadded to the solution of
tin, and the whole well stirred up and then al-
lowed to stand until the kettle becomes of a sil-
very white color, after which the wool is to be
introduced and the dyeing prosecuted in the usual
manner. During the process the mercurial coat-
ing gradually becomes removed, and is subse-
quently to be renewed. The work is thus car-
ried on in what is equivalent to a quicksilver.
kettle, since the brass is completely coated with
a layer of this metal.

DYES, FIXING.—Mr. Kipping of Manch—
ester, England, has a new process of fixing dyes.
He dissolves 20 ounces of gelatine in water and
adds three ounces of bichromate of potash. This
is done in a dark room. The coloring matter is
then added and the goods submitted thereto;
after which they are exposed to the action of
light, the pigment thus becomes insoluble in wa-
ter and the color is fast.

EMBROIDERY and GOLD LACE, To
Clema—For this purpose no alkaline liquors are
to be used; for while they clean the gold, they
corrode the silk, and change its color. Soap also
alters the shade, and even the species of certain
colors. But spirit of wine may be used without
any danger of its injuring either color or quality;
and, in many cases, proves as effectual for restor-
ing the lustre of the gold, as the corrosive de-
tergents. But, though spirit of wine is the most
innocent material employed for this purpose, it
is not in all cases proper. The golden covering
may be in some parts worn off; or the base met-
al, with which it has been alloyed, may be cor-
roded by the air, so as to leave the particles of
the gold disunited; while the silver underneath,
tarnished to a yellow hue, may continue a toler-
able color; to the whole, so itis apparent that the
removal of the tarnish would be prejudicial, and
make the lace or embroidery less like gold than
it was before.

FEA T HERS, To Dyer—To dye them black,

348

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

they should first be dipped in a mordant of
acetate of iron, and then in a decoction of madder
and logwood, which should be boiling when
used. To produce blue feathers, indigo should
be used. For crimson feathers, use a mordant
of acetate of alumina, and then dip them in a
decoction of Brazil wood in a boiling state. The
feathers will now be found to have a deep red
hue; the crimson tint may be imparted by dip-
ping them in a bath of cudbear. To obtain rose-
colored feathers use lemon juice and safflower.
Yellow feathers are prepared by using, first, a
mordant of acetate of alumina, and then dipping
them in a solution of turmeric. The addition of
a little soda to the solution of turmeric will give
an orange tint to the feathers. For green, use a
solution of indigo and turmeric; and for lilac a
solution of cudbear. These solutions should be
used in a boiling state, and the feathers allowed
to simmer in them until they have assumed the
required tint. Before the feathers are immersed
in any of the dyes, they should be dipped into
hot water, and allowed to drain before they are
plunged into the boiling coloring matter. As
soon as they are taken out of the dye, they
should be rinsed two or three times in cold wa-
ter, and then laid before a moderately hot fire to
dry. When they begin to dry, the feathers
should be passed gently between the thumb and
finger until they resume their original form. The
feathers may be curled by passing the vanes or
laminae, on each side of the central shaft over a
blunt piece of iron, such as the back of a knife.

FEA THERS (Ortrz'ch), To death—Cut some
white curd soap in small pieces, pour boiling wa-
ter on them, and add a little pearlash. When
the soap is quite dissolved, and the mixture cool
enough for the hand to bear, plunge the feathers
into it, draw the feathers through the hand till
the dirt appears squeezed out of them, pass them
through a clean lather with some blue in it, then
rinse in cold water with blue to give them a good
color. Beat them against the hand to shake off
the water, and dry by shaking them near a fire.
When perfectly dry, curl each fibre separately
with a blunt knife or ivory paper-folder.

FEA T HERS (White), T a clean. —Wash
them well in soft water, with white soap and
blue; rub them through very clean white paper,
beat them on the paper, shake them before the
fire, dry them in the air, and afterward curl

them.

FLANNEL (New), To Warh.—~Cut the soap
small and boil it in a little water. Have two tubs
with water as hot as the hands can bear; pre-
viously blue the water well, to keep the color of
the flannel, and put some of the boiled soap in-
to one tub to make a lather; then wash the flan-
nel without squeezing it. Put it into the other
tub, and wring it in a large towel. Shake it out
then, and, after drying it smooth with a cool
iron.

The flannels should not be rubbed with soap,
nor should the material itself be rubbed, as in
washing linen, etc.; the fibres of the wool con-
tain numberless little hooks, which the rubbing
knots together; hence the thickening of the fabric
and consequent shrinking in its dimensions.

FLANNEL, To Whitm when Juliana—Flan-
nel which has become yellow with use may be
whitened by putting it for some time in a solu~
tion of hard soa , to which strong ammonia has
been added. 'I‘ e proportions we give are one

 

and a half pounds of hard curd soap, fifty ounds
of soft water and two-thirds of a pound 0 strong
ammonia. The same object may be attained in
a shorter time by placing the garments for a
quarter of an hour in a weak solution of bisul-
phite of soda to which a little hydrochloric acid
has been added. This latter process, we dare
say, will be effectual, and probably the oxalic
acid solution mentioned above would answer the
purpose as well.

GLOVES, To Dyan—Leather gloves, if not
greasy, may be dyed with any of the ordinary
dyes by brushing the latter over the gloves
stretched out smooth. The surface alone should
be wetted, and a second or third coat may be
given after the former one has become dry.
When the last coat has become thoroughly dry, .
the superfluous color should be well rubbed Out, '
a smooth surface given them by rubbing with a
polished stick or piece of ivory, and the whole
gone over with a sponge dipped in white of egg.

’ GLOVES(K'£¢'), To Clean.—I.Put the gloves
on your hand and wash them, as if you were
washing your hands, in some spirits of tur-
pentine, until quite clean ; then hang them up in
a warm place, or where there is a current of air,
and all smell of the turpentine will be removed.

2. To clean kid gloves, have ready a little new
milk in one saucer, a piece of white soap in an-
other, and a clean cloth folded two or three times.
On the cloth spread out the glove smooth and
neat. Take a piece of flannel, dip it in the milk,
then rub off a good quantity of soap on the wet-
ted flannel, and commence to rub the glove to-
ward the fingers, holding it firmly with the left
hand. Continue this process until the glove, if
white, looks of a dingy yellow, though clean; if
colored, till it looks dry and spoiled. La it to
dry, and the operator will soon be gratified to
see that the old glove looks nearly new. It will
be soft, glossy, smooth, and elastic.

3. Wrap a fine cloth around our finger, dip it
in new milk, and then rub on ne soap and rub
the glove lightly. In all the above operations
the glove must be on the hand.

4. Take fine curd soap, one pound, scrape it
into a powder, put into a jar, and pour u on it
from time to time, sufficient strong alco 01 to
make it into a thick jelly; add one teaspoonful of
ether on one half teaspoonful liquor potassiae,
mix and put into bottles well corked. To use,
put the gloves on the hands, rub on the prepara-
tion with a piece of flannel, when the dirt will
disappear.

5. It is well known that common benzine is
the best substance to take the greasy dirt out of
leather gloves, as it does not attack the leather
like most of the other substances sometimes used
for that purpose. Those who make it a profes-
sion to clean gloves, put them all together in a
large, wide mouthed jar with glass stopper, until
it is about half full, cover the gloves with ben-
zine, close the stopper, and shake the whole
several times, letting it rest alternately. The
gloves are then taken out, one by one, and ex-
amined. If any dirt spots have remained, they
are rubbed out with benzine; the glove is then
wrung out and hung up to (it . If such gloves
were, however, to be worn ter simply air dry-
ing, the higher tem erature of the hand won (1
cause the evaporation with an unpleasant odor

'of the benzine which, at the lower temperature,

was left behind. Hence they are dried at a

WASHING, BEE/‘1 CHIN G AND D YEING.

temperature of some 200°, between plates heated
with boiling water, which removes all traces of
benzine, and consequent odor.

The benzine remaining in the bottle after hav-
ing been used a few times becomes dirty; but as
benzine is so cheap as to make it not worth while
to recover aby redistillation when thus soiled, all
glove cleaners throw it away.

GLC VES ( lV/zz‘te Leat/zer), To Clean.——White
agather gloves may be cleaned to look very well,

y putting on one at a time, and going over them
”thoroughly with a shaving brush and lather.
Then wipe them off with a clean handkerchief or
sponge, and dry them on the hands by the fire
or in the sun.

GLO VE S ( Work-Leather), To Clean. — Re-
move the grease spots by rubbing with magnesia
or cream of tartar, prepare a lather of lukewarm
water and white soap; wash the gloves in it,
wring them, and squeeze them through a fresh
lather. Rinse first in lukewarm water, then in
cold, and stretch them (on wooden hands, if pos-
sible) to dry in the sun or before a fire.

GREASE SPOTS, 277 Remove. —Dissolve
an ounce of pure pearlash in a pint of spring
water, and to the solution add a lemon cut in
small slices. Mix the ingredients well, keep the
mixture in a warm state for a couple of days,
then strain it and bottle the clear liquid for use.
A little of this poured on stains of grease, pitch,
or oil, will remove them. As soon as they
disappear the cloth should be washed in clear
Water.

GREEN DYE, for A ll-wool Gawain—x.
Clean the cloth or goods by steeping in soap
suds, then rinse in several different messes of
clean water, and lay aside moist.

2. Steep the cloth or goods onehour or longer
in a. hath made by dissolving the alum in the
package marked, A [um to mordant green on
woolen, in a clean brass or copper kettle, with
the amount of clean water deemed necessary to
work the goods in easily. After the conclusion
of this stee ing or mordanting, lift the goods
from the bat , drain or wring well, and lay aside
moist in a clean place.

3. Inclose the fustic chips in a bag of tow
cloth, and steep them from one to two hours in
a brass or copper kettle with the amount of clean
water deemed necessary to work the cloth or
goods in easily; then take out the bag of fustic,
and let the bath cool to a blood heat. When the
bath is thus cooled, add the sulphate of indigo
paste in small portions at a time, stirring con-
stantly, till the desired shade of green is obtained
(a point to be ascertained by testing with a piece
of unsized paper after each addition of the indigo
paste) ; then put in the still moist cloth or goods,
and work them thirty minutes at a little more
than blood-heat; after which lift out the goods
from the bath, and add the alum in the package
marked, Alum to mire color in green on woolen,
and stir till dissolved; then put in the cloth or
goods, and work again twenty minutes at the
same degree of heat; lift out, cool thoroughly,
rinse in several different messes of clean water,
and dry in the shade.

A single pound of woolen goods requires about
four gallons of water to work it in easily, either
when mordanting or when dyeing. Larger quan-
tities of these goods do not need quite so much
water in pro ortion. Use a. clean wooden rod
for stirring t ’s dye.

 

349

GREEN DYE for Colton.—I. If the cotton
is new boil in weak lye or strong suds; then
wash, and dry; give the cotton adip in the home-
made blue dye-tub until blue enough is obtained
to make the green as dark as required, take out,
dry, and rinse the goods a little; then make a
dye with fustic, % 1b., logwood, 3 oz., to each 1
lb. of goods, by boiling the dye 1 hour; when
cooled so as to bear the hand, put in the cotton,
move briskly a few minutes, and let lie in I hour; ,
take out, and let it thoroughly drain; dissolve,"
and add to the dye, for each lb. of cotton, blue
vitriol, % 02., and dip another hour; wring out,
and let dry in the shade. By adding or dimin-
ishing the logwood and fustic, any shade of
green may be obtained.

2. For cotton goods : One pound of fustic, two
ounces of logwood and one ounce of blue vitriol,
will color four or five pounds of goods. Boil the
logwood and fustic until the strength is out, then
add the vitriol, mix well, and put in the goods;
stir ten or fifteen minutes, then wring them out
and scour in strong soap suds.

3. For eight pounds of cotton goods, two
pounds of fustic, two ounces of blue vitriol,one pint
of soft soap, four ounces chips of logwood. Soak
the logwood over night in soft water in a vessel
of brass, place it over the fire in the morning,
adding the other ingredients. When quite hot
it is ready for dyeing; it makes no difference
whether you wet the goods or not, provided you
have dye sufficient to color well. You can ob-
taim different shades by letting part of the goods
remain longer in the dye.

GREEN D YE for Sills—Take green ebony,
boil it in water, and let it settle; take the clean
liquor as hot as you can bear your hands in it,
and handle your goods in it until of a bright yel-
low; then take water and put in a little sulphate
of indigo; handle your goods in this till of the
shade wanted. The ebony may previously be
boiled in a bag, to prevent it from sticking to the
silk.

HATS, To Dye.—The hats should be first
strongly galled by boiling them a long time in a
decoction of galls with a little logwood, that the
dye may penetrate the better into their substance;
after which a proper quantity of vitriol and de-
coction of logwood, with a little verdigris, are
added, and the hats continued in this mixture
for a considerable time. They are afterwards
put into fresh liquor of logwood, galls, vitriol,
and verdigris; and where the hats are of great
price, or of a hair which with difficulty takes the
dye, the same process is repeated a third time.
For obtaining the most perfect color, the hair or
wool is dyed blue previously to its being formed
into hats.

HOSE (Woolen), To Wash—If new, soak
all night, then wash in hot suds with beet’s
gall, a tablespoonful to half a pail of water.
Rinse till no color comes out. Then stretch on
stocking frames, or iron them when damp on
the wrong side.

INDIGO or CHE/VIC, Exfmet of. — For
good chemic or extract of indigo, take oil of
vitriol, % 1b., and stir into it indigo. finely
ground, 2 02., continuing the stirring at first for -
% hour; now cover over, and stir 3 or 4 times
daily for 2 or 3 days; then put in a crumb of
saleratus and stir it up, and if it foams, put in
more and stir, and add as long as it foams ; the
saleratus neutralizes any excess of acid; then put

35°

into a glass vessel and cork up tight.
proves by standing.

IRONLVG.—-ln ironing a shirt, first do the
back, then the sleeves, then the collar and bo-
som, and then the front. Iron calicoes generally
on the right side, as they thus keep clean for a
longer time. In ironing a frock, first do the
waist, then the sleeves, then the skirt. Keep the
skirt rolled while ironing the other parts, and set
a chair to holc‘ the sleeves while ironing the
skirt, unless a skirt-board be used. Silk should
be ironed on the wrong side, when quite damp,
with an iron which is not very hot; light colors
are apt to change and fade. In ironing velvet,
turn up the face 01 the iron, and after dampening
the wrong side of the velvet, draw it over the
face of the iron, holding it straight; always iron
lace and needlework on the wrong 'side, and car-
ry them away as soon as they are dry.

LA C RED DICE—F or 5 lbs. goods, argal,
10 oz.; boil a few minutes; then mix fine ground
lac, 111)., with muriate of tin, 1% 1b.; and let
them stand 2 or 3 hours; then add half of the lac
to the argal dye, and dip % hour; then add the
balance of the lac, and dip again I hour; keep
the dye at a boiling heat, until the last half hour,
when the dye may be cooled off.

LACE and filUSLIZV, To War]; and Iran.
-——Muslin or lace should never be rubbed in
washing. Take white soap in proportion to the
muslin you have to wash, shave it down, and
boil it with soft water till it dissolves. When
cold, it should be as thick as jelly; mix a part of
this jelly with soft tepid water, so as to be strong
of the soap; let the muslins lie in this foranight,
then add boiling water; move them up and
down in the water, repeatedly squeezing them
through the hands, so as to wash them, but do
not rub them. Having steeped them well in
soap and water before, makes rubbing quite un—
necessary; tie them loosely up in a pillow-case,
and with soft water and the rest of the boiled
soap, boil them for a couple of hours. If in the
country, they should be laid out on the grass to
bleach (without the soap being washed out), and
watered when necessary, so as to keep them
moist. If in town, where no bleaching on the
grass can be procured, put them into a washing
tub, and, having poured boiling water over them,
leave them in the back court in the air for the
rest of the day, and during the night in the water;
this has a great effect in whitening them; in either
case, after being bleached, rinse them twice
through cold water, to clear them completely
from the soap, and hang them up to dry before
being starched. A piece of lace, or any small
article, can be very well bleached by being put
outside the window in the sun, in a crystal
bottle of water, having been previously washed,
and the soap left in it. It is a frequent practice
not to boil the starch, but to mix it with boiling
water, to hang up the muslins or laces the mo-
ment they have been put through the starch, and
squeezed out; and when dry, and as hard as a
piece of board, then they water them (as it is
called), leaving one spot dry and the rest wet,
so that to stretch them out for ironing, without
tearing them, is almost impossible. This mode
of proceeding may account for the melancholy
frequency of torn lace, and the dull heavy ap-

earance of beautiful worked collars, looking as
if they had been partially rubbed over with flour
and water. To give them that light transparent

It im-

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVER Y—DA Y WANTS.

look which adds so much to their beauty, the
treatment must be very different; the starch
should be mixed in a little cold soft water, and
bruised down with the back of a spoon till quite
smooth; more water should be added, till it re.
sembles thin milk, then boiled in a glazed-stone
pipkin, till it becomes clear and thick, so as to
jelly when cold, The muslin and laces should
be put through the starch while it is still warm;
squeezed out first in the hand, then gently in
clean smooth cloth, so as to get as much as pos-
sible of the starch out without fraying them in
any way. The cloth must not be twistal round
in the slightest degree, but gently pressed be-
tween the hands, putting but a few of the articles
in at one time; each article should then be taken
separately, held lightly by the two ends with the
forefinger and thumb of each hand, and beaten
between the palms of both hands for a few min-
utes; next shaken out and drawn, so that each
thread in the muslin is perfectly straight, and
the shape of the collar is carefully preserved. If
after holding it up between you and the light,
you find that in some parts it is not sufficiently
clear, then a little drawing up and down on those
spots will be necessary, so as to free every thread
from the starch. It should then be folded up in
a damp cloth, and each article put beside it, as
soon as it has gone through the same process, so
that the whole may have a sligbtdegree of damp-
ness when ironed. When it is not convenient
to do up muslins the moment they are starched,
it answers well, after they have been squeezed in
the cloth, to fold up each article, and to leave
them wrapped up together in a cloth for some
hours, or a night, to clear themselves. When
this is done they generally require only to be
drawn a little, and folded up for ironing; but
where great clearness is to be obtained, the stiff-
er the starch and the more they are beaten the
better. In getting up fine things well much
also depends on the ironing. The ironing
blanket should be thick, so that the work
on the collars, etc., should have a raised
look after being ironed. When the blanket
is thin the hard surface of the table flattens the
work, and injures the appearance. The ironing
blanket should be covered with a piece of thin,
smooth, long cloth kept for the purpose, and
washed each time it is used. In spreading out
the collar, or whatever you are about to iron, see
that it lies perfectly even, and that each thread is
straight up and down; also that the iron has been
carefully cleaned, first rubbed on a piece of old
carpet, and then wiped with a cloth; and also
that it is not too hot. Singeing is a common
fault with the inexperienced, and it is a very bad
one; for, even when it is not to such a degree as
to burn, which may easily happen with a ver
thin muslin, still it leaves a yellow shade, who
not only destroys the appearance at the time, but
is very difficult to get rid of. A little practice m
handling the irons will soon accustom one to the
degree of heat necessary, and till that IS the case
an old pocket handkerchief, or some such thing»
should be at hand to try each Iron upon before
ou venture to iron any thing of consequence.
lDO not pass your iron frequently over the same
place if you wish the muslin to retain the stiff-
ness, and also ou should hang the article on 3
screen before t e fire the moment it is ironed;
it becomes soft if folded up with the slightest
dampness upon it. Lace, Wthh to look well

 

 

WASHING, BLEACHJNG AND DYEING.

351

 

should not be stiff, is improved and cleared by
being put through cold water as soon as it has
been starched; it should then be squeezed out,
held by each hand, very slightly beaten between
the palms of the hands, and gently drawn out.
In drawing out the edge the nails must never
touch it. It should all be. done by the ball of
the thumb and the forefinger, and ironed once or

twice over to take out the stiffening. When lace d

is sewed to a muslin collar, and washed with it,
as the collar requires to be stiffer than the lace,
it will be necessary, after putting it through the
starch, and clearing it, by heating and drawing
it, to gather the lace together in the hand, and
dip it into cold water, so as to take out a good
deal of the starch, taking care not to wet the col-
lar ; but' this is only necessary where the lace is

ut on with very little fullness, or quite plain.

Vhere it is put on full enough to be set up in
small pipes with the French irons, or, rather,
curling tongs (as they may be called), it is not
necessar to extract any portion of the starch;
the lace IS the better for being stiff, and, if rather
damp when set up in these small pipes, they will
retain a regular and tidy appearance as long as
the collar can be worn. These small French
irons are to be got of different sizes, and answer
remarkably well for nightcap borders, or frills of
any kind. When making use of them you should
be near a stove or fire, where they can be fre-
quently heated; for, as they can not be used
when very hot, for fear of singeing the lace,
they require to be constantly heated, and must
be wiped with a cloth each time before being
used.

LACE (IV/tile Silk) or Blond, To Was/z.—
Take ablack bottle covered with clean linen or
muslin and wind the blond round it, (securing the
ends with a needle and thread,) not leaving the
edge outward, but covering it as you roceed.
Set the bottle upright in a strong cold ather of
white soap and very clear soft water, and place
it in the sun, having gently with your hand rub-
bed the suds up and down on the lace. Keep it
in the sun every day for a week, changing the
lather daily, and always rubbing it slightly when
you renew the suds. At the end of the week,
take the blond off the bottle, and (without rinsing)
pin it backward and forward on a large pillow
covered with a clean tight case. Every scallop
must have a separate pin; or more, if the scallops
are not very small. The plain edge must be
pinned down also, so as to make it straight and
even. The pins should be of the smallest size.
When quite dry, take it off, but do not starch,
iron, or press it. Lay it in long loose folds, and
put it away in a pasteboard box.

Thread lace may be washed in the same
manner.

LA CE (Black), To Chara—Sponge the lace
carefully with green tea, and wind it round and
round a bottle to dry, for if touched with an iron
it would look glossy and flattened. Some people
fill the bottle with warm water, which causes the
lace to dry more quickly. It must not be placed
near the fire, as it would give it a rusty appear-

ance.

LA CE, T a Renovate. —-Lace, we are told,
may be restored to its original whiteness by first
ironing it slightly, then folding it up neatly, and
sewing it into a clean linen bag. his bag is
now kept for twenty-four hours in ure olive oil,
while in the meantime a strong so ution of soap

 

is made in water. The bag, on being taken out
of the oil, is put into this boiling solution, and
ke t there for a quarter of an hour; after which
it IS taken out, well rinsed in lukewarm water,
and then dipped into water containing a slight
proportion of starch. All that remains to
be done now is to take the lace out of the
bag, iron it, and stretch it with pins till perfectly

r .
>LA CE (Gold or Silver), To Gram—Lay the
lace smooth on a woolen carpet or piece of wool-
en cloth, and brush it free from dust, then burn
rock alum and powder it fine, and afterwards
sift it through a lawn sieve; then rub it over the
lace with a fine brush, and in so doing it will
take off the tarnish and restore it to its bright-
ness, if it be not too much worn on the threads.

LAMA DRESS, To Wash—Boil one pound
of the best rice in one gallon of water for three
hours. When boiled pour off what will be suffi-
cient to starch the dress; wash the dress well in
the remainder, rinse it in clean cold water, wring
it well, then starch it with the rice water that
was kept for that purpose, and hang it before the
fire to dry. When dry enough iron with a cool
iron, as it is liable to scorch. If some parts of
the dress get too dry, they must be damped with
a wet cloth whilst ironing. No soap must be
used. The best way is to boil the rice on the
previous day, and merely warm it up the next
morning, for then you have the day before you
to complete the whole, as the dress must on no
account lie damp, even for an hour, or the colors
will be sure to run. This receipt will be found
equally well suited to delicate painted muslins
and piqués as to lama and alpaca dresses.

LA I/VNS, To Wash—Delicate lawn and mus- .
lin dresses are so frequently spoiled by bad wash-
ing, the colors of the fabric yielding so readily
to the action of soap, that it is well to adopt a
new method of cleansing the finest materials, and
imparting to them the appearance of newness.
Take two quarts of wheat bran and boil it for
half an hour in soft water. Let it cool, then
strain~it, and pour the strained liquor into the
water in which the dress is to be washed. Use
no soap, one rinsing alone is required, and no
starch. The bran water not only removes the
dirt, and insures against change of color, but
gives the fabric a pleasanter stiffness than any
preparation of starch. If the folds are drawn
from the skirts and sleeves, the dress will iron
better; and will appear, when prepared in this
way, as fresh as new.

LINEN ( T able), T a [Var/L—It is poor econo-
my to boil or freeze table cloths if brown. It
gives them an old, yellow look. White ones
may be kept clear by spreading for a few hours
in the hot sun, or on the snow when the sun
shines. If there are fruit stains on them pour
boiling water over them before washing. The
boiling and freezing make them soft, and once
hanging on the line in the air and freezing dry
wears linen more than two weeks constant use.
A little starch should be added to the last water
and they should be hung up straight on frames
to dry. If they dry in a twist, they cannot be
ironed smooth without extra pains. ,

LINEN, To Remove Stain: from. -— Stains
occasioned b fruit, iron rust, and other similar
causes, may 6 removed by applyin to the parts
injured a weak solution of the chloride of lime
—the cloth having been previously well washed.

3S2

DICTIONARY OFEVER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

—or of soda, oxalic acid, or salts of lemon in
warm water. The parts subjected to this opera-
tion should be subsequently well rinsed in soft,
clean, warm water, without soap, and be im-
mediately dried in the sun.

LINEZV, WHITENING.-—- According to a
French writer, crystallized carbonate of soda,
although 50 great a favorite with the washer-
women, is a declared foe to linen, since, not-
withstanding its cleansing power, it attacks the
fibre, and after a time makes it so rotten as to
cause it to tear, almost at the touch. An im-
provement on this substance, it is said, consists
in the employment of a solution in the propor-
tion of two pounds of soap to twenty-five quarts
of warm water, to which are to be added one
tablespoonful of essence of turpentine and three
spoonfuls of ammonia. The mixture is to be
stirred by the help of a little broom, and the
linen immersed in it for several hours, the tub
being completely covered. The articles are then
to be washed in the ordinary way, rinsed in tepid
water, and then blued, if this is necessary. The
same solution can be used twice over by heating
again and adding half the amount given of es—
sence of turpentine and ammonia.

It is claimed that this process is accompanied
by great economy of time, labor, and fuel, and
that the linen experiences little or no injury, ap-
pearing finally in a condition of irreproachable
whiteness. The ammonia, it is said, does not
exert any corrosive effect upon the fibre, since
it evaporates immediately; and the odor of the
turpentine entirely disappears in drying.

LIA/EM Sizing qf. —The peculiar smooth
linen called Holland in the United States, and
used for window-shades, is sized with the fol-
lowing preparation : Carbonate of soda, (crystal-
lized, I part; white wax, 4 to 6 parts; stearine,
4 to parts; pure white soap, 4 to 6 parts; fine
lParis white or carbonate of magnesia, 20 parts;
potato-starch, 40 parts; fine wheat-starch, 160
parts.

This is boiled with sufficient water to form
1600 parts altogether. If necessary, some ultra-
marine is added to counteract the yellow tint of
the linen. The linen is starched with this pre-
paration, passed between rollers, and dried. It
is then sprinkled with soap~water and placed in
the stamping-mill, afterward steamed and cal-
endered.

A mixture of the first four or five ingredients
named above is sold by druggists as a prepara-
tion for improving the starch used for stiffening
shirt-collars, etc.

LIL/1 C D YE.—For every pound of silk, take
one and a half pound of archil, mix it well with
the li uor; make it boil :1 quarter of an hour, dip
the si it quickly, then let it cool, and wash it in
river water, and a fine half violet, or lilac, more
or less full, will be obtained.

LIQUID DYE COLORS. —1. (Blue) a.
Dissolve litmus in water, and add % of spirit of
wine. -— b. Dilute Saxon blue or sulphate of
indigo with water. If required for delicate work,
neutralize the acid with chalk—c. To an a ue-
ous infusion of litmus add a few drops of vme-
gar, till it turns full blue.

2. (Purple.) a. Steep litmus in water and
strain—b. Add a little alum to a strained decoc-
tion of logwood.—c. Add a solution of carmine
Sled) to a little blue solution of litmus or Saxon

uC. .

 

3. (Green.) a. Dissolve crystallized verdigris
in water.— &. Dissolve sap green in water, and
add a little alum.—c. Add a little salt of tartar to
a blue or purple solution of litmus, till it turns
green.—— d. Dissolve equal parts of crystallized
verdigris and cream of tartar in water, and add a
little gum arabic. Used as an ink for writing.

4. (Yellow.) a. Dissolve gamboge in water,
and add a little gum arabic and alum. Used for
ink, to stain paper, color maps, etc—b. Dissolve
gamboge in equal parts of proof spirit and wa-
ter. Golden colored—r. Steep French berries
in hot water, strain, and add a little gum and
alum.—d. Steep turmeric, round zedoary, gam-
boge, or annotto, in spirits of wine—e. Dissolve
annotto in a weak lye of subcarbonate of soda or
potash. All the above are used by artificial
florists.

5. (Red.)a. Macerate ground Brazil in vine-
gar, boil a few minutes, strain, and add a little
alum and gum.— 5. Add vinegar to an infusion
of litmus till it turns red. — c. Boil or infuse
powdered cochineal in water; strain, and add a
little alum and gum. —d. Dissolve Carmine in
liqilior of ammonia, or in weak carbonate of pot-
as water; the former is superb.

All the preceding, thickened with a little gum,
are used as inks for writing, as colors to tint
maps, foils, paper, artificial flowers, etc., and to
paint on velvet. Some of them are very beau-
tiful. It must be observed, however, that those
made with strong spirit do not mix well with
gum, unless diluted with water.

[VIADDER RED DYE for W'ooL—To each
lb. of goods—alum 5 oz. ; red, or cream of tar~
tar, I 02.; put in the goods and bring your kettle
to a boil for % hour; then air them and boil 12
hour longer; then empty your kettle and fill wrth
clean water, put in bran l eck; make it milk
warm and let it stand unti the bran rises, then
skim off the bran and put in madder % lb. ; put
in your goods and heat slowly until it boils and
is done. Wash in strong suds.

MERIN OS, T a War/L—An old merino may
be made to look as good as new by first ripping
to pieces the skirt, and afterward washing each
breadth separately in warm suds, being careful
to rinse only in clean warm water suds. Cold
water after warm will shrink any kind of woolen
goods. Iron while quite damp on the wrong
side. Afterward fold one double on the right
side; placing over it a clean newspaper, and iron
with a very hot flat, in this way making the seam
fold in all new double folded goods.

MILDE W', T o Remove—Take two ounces
of chloride of lime, pour on it a quart of boiling
water, then add three quarts of cold water ; steep
the linen twelve hours, when every spot will be
extracted.

MUSLINS, PIQUES, ETC, Franck Me-
tfioa’ qf Was/ling.— Prepare some rather warm
(not hot) lather, made with soft water and the
best white soap; wash the dresses one at a time,
but do not soak them. As soon as the first lath-
er looks soiled squeeze the dress from it, and at
once wash it again in a fresh lather. When
thoroughly clean, rinse in pure cold water, lastly
in water sli htl blued; squeeze (not wrmg)_ the
water comp ete y from the dress, and hang.1t in
a shaded place to dry; if wet weather,_dry It by
the fire. The best prints wrll fade if hung in
the sunshine.

NANKEEN DYE. —Annotto and potash,

.’

WASHING, BLEA CHING AND D YEIN G.

e ual parts; water sufficient; boil till dissolved.
The proportion of potash is varied according to
the shade required; the alkali darkens it. Used
to dye nankeen color, but chiefly to restore the
color of faded nankeen clothing.

ORANGE DYE. —This may be given by
mixing red and yellow dyes in various propor-
tions. A very good fugitive orange may be given
with annotto, by passing the goods througha
solution made with equal parts of annotto and
pearlash; or still better, through a bath made of
I part of annotto dissolved in a lye of I parteach
of lime and pearlash, and 2 parts of soda. The
shade may be reddened by passing the dyed
goods through water acidulated with vinegar,
lemon-juice, or citric acid; or through a solution
of alum. The goods are sometimes passed
through a weak alum mordant before immersion
in the bath.

ORANGE D YE for Cation. — For 5 lbs.
goods—sugar of lead 4 oz. ; boil a few minutes,
and when a little cool put in the goods, dip 2
hours, wring out; make a new dye with bichro-
mate of otash 8 oz. ; madder 2 oz. ; dip until it
suits; i the color should be too red, take off a
small sample and dip it into lime water, when
the choice can be taken of the sample dipped in
the lime or the original color.

ORAJV GE D YE fbr VVooL—For 5 lbs. goods,
muriate of tin, 6 tablespoons; argal, 4 oz. ; boil
and dip I hour; then add to the dye, fustic, 2%
lbs. ; boil 10 minutes, and dip % hour; and add
a ain to the dye, madder, I teacup, dip again
é hour.

Cochineal in place of madder makes a much
brighter color, which should be added in small
quantities until pleased. About 2 oz.

ORAA’GE D YEfor Silé.—Bloodroot, boiled
in brass, and set with alum, will color an orange
color that is not easily faded. Old silk that is
not very fair will do very well for this kind of
color.

PINK D YE.—I. For every three pounds of
goods, take three and a half quarts of water, or
enough to cover the articles you wish to color.
Take two ounces of cochineal, and a half an
ounce of cream tartar, steep the cochineal in warm
water two hours, or until the strength is entirely
extracted, and add the cream tartar; then wash
the cloth in clean water, wring it out and put it
in the d e; bring it to a scalding heat; let it re-
main a ew moments and it will be finished. If
a light color is wanted use less cochineal—if a
dark, more—the shade depending on the quan-
tity of cochineal used.

2. Balm flowers, steeped in water, color a
pretty rose.

3. Make a solution of the carmine in a carmine
saucer, and set it with alum.

PINK DYE flir (fallow—Two pounds red-
wood; four ounces of solution of tin; boil the
wood one hour, turn off into a tub, then add the
tin, and put in the cloth; let it stand a few min-
utes (five or ten), and a nice pink will be pro-
duced. This will color four pounds of goods;
is quite a fast color.

PINK DYE for WooI.—-For 3 lbs. of goods
—-alum, 3 oz., boil and dip the goods I hour;
then add, to the dye, cream of tartar, 4 02.;
cochineal, well pulverized, I 02.; boil well and
dip the goods while boiling, until the color
suits.

PINK DYE fir Silk. -— After aluming,

 

353

handle the goods to be dyed in peach-wood liquor
till the color desired; then take out and put in
a little alum liquor, handle the goods a little lon-
ger, take out, rinse in water, and finish. In
most cases, where the shade is not dark enough,
the o )eration must be repeated;

1’ NK for Lzlrtz'ngr. — To 100 pounds of
wool use 8 pounds of cochineal, 5 pounds of tar-
tar, 10 pounds of scarlet spirit, % pound of tin
crystals. Boil all together until dissolved; then
cool off the dye to 170° Fah.; enter and handle
well; boil for half an hour. If the wool should
not color even in ten minutes, use a few pounds
of muriatic acid. (See “Scarlet on VVool.”) If
this color be used for listings on white flannels,
add about 6 ounds more scarlet spirit to the
wool, just be ore taking it out. This additional
tin acid will fasten the cochineal more, without
rotting the wool. The color will stand the soap
better; and to keep the color from running be-
fore bleaching entirely, the scourer must add a.
solution of I pound of muriatic acid to the last
rinsing of the flannel. If the cochineal should
have stained the white, then rinse in cold water
before fastening the spots, by the sulphur, when
bleaching. '

PONCEOM—Ioo pounds of fabric. Color
scarlet first, as given in recipe for scarlet on
wool, in another place, but leave out the flavine,
or yellow dyestuff. After the goods are well
rinsed, prepare a kettle with fresh water; heat it
to 180° F ah.; strain into it 5 pounds of cochineal
paste; stir all well together, and enter the fabric;
handle it for half an hour without boiling; rinse
and dry. Instead of ammoniated cochineal, 3
ounces of magenta crystals may be used.

PRINTS, To Pram! Fading. -—The dress
should be washed in lather, and not by applying
the soap in the usual way direct upon the muslin.
Make a lather by boiling soap and water together;
let it stand until it is sufficiently cool for use,
and previously to putting the dress into it, throw
in a handful of salt; rinse the dress without
wringing it in clear, cold water, into which a
little salt has been thrown; remove it and rinse
it in a fresh supply of clear water and salt. Then
wring the dress in a cloth and hang it to dry im-
mediately, spreading as open as possible, so as
to prevent one part lying over another. Should
there be any white in the pattern, mix a little
blue in the water.

PURPLE DYE for Cotton.— Get up a tub-
of hot logwood liquor, enter three pieces, give
them five ends, hedge out; enter them into a.
clean alum tub, give them five ends, hedge out;
get up another tub of logwood liquor, enter, give-
them five ends, hedge out ; renew your alum
tub, give them five ends in that, and finish.

PURPLE D YE fir W001.—F0r 5 lbs. goods,,
cream of tartar, 4 02.; alum, 6 02.; cochineal,
well pulverized, 2 02.; muriate of tin, % teacup.
Boil the cream of tartar, alum, and tin, I5 min-.
utes; then put in the cochineal, and boil 5 min-.
utes; dip the goods 2 hours; then make a new
dye with alum, 4 02.; Brazil wood, 6 02.; log-
wood, 14 02.; muriate of tin, I tea-cup, with a
little chemic; work again until pleased.

PURPLE DYE for Silk—For 1 lb. of silk
fhaving first obtained a light blue by dipping
in the home-made blue dye-tub, and dried, dip
in alum 4 02., to sufficient water to cover, when
a little warm; if the color is not full enough add}
a little chemic.

33

3S4

RED DYES, on While Woolen Good: «vii/t
Aniline Red. (Solferz'no and Magenta Shades.)
—I. Clean the cloth or goods by steeping at a
gentle heat in weak soap-suds, then rinse in
several different messes of clean water, and lay
aside moist.

2. Put the aniline red powder into an earthen
or metallic vessel, and add to it 128 times its
weight of cold water, and stir with a spoon, or
small, clean wooden rod, until dissolved. When
the powder is dissolved, strain one-half of the
strong liquor or solution through cotton cloth
into a large brass, copper, or iron dye-kettle, and
add cold water till the amount is reached that is
needed to work the goods in easily, and then
mix very thoroughly by stirring with a wooden
rod. If any of the aniline red is found on the
strainer undissolved, it must be transferred with
a. spoon to the vessel of cold water, and the
whole well stirred. A little more cold water
should also be added to the vessel.

3. The still moist cloth or goods are now to
be shaken by their ends, with the hands, to re-
move the plaits or folds, and then put into the
dye bath, which is to be gradually heated to a
nearly scalding heat, and maintained at that tem-
perature till the color on the goods is even, and
of the desired depth. The goods are to be
stirred constantly while they are in the dye-
bath.

If the color is not dark enough, after the goods
haw been worked from fifteen to thirty minutes
at a nearly scalding heat, lift them from the bath,
strain in a little more of the strong, cold aniline
solution from the earthen vessel, and stir till
thoroughly mixed, then return the goods to the
bath, and work them again from fifteen to thirty
minutes. Repeat the removals of the goods from
the bath, the strainings in of a little of the strong,
,cold aniline solution, and the steepings of the
[goods for short periods, till the color on the
goods is of the desired shade; then remove from
the bath, rinse in several different messes of
clean water, and dry in the shade.

This process is adapted for either a Solferino
or Magenta shade of red. The Solferino shade
requires only about two-thirds as much of the
aniline red as is required for the Magenta shade.

Silk goods, and mixed goods of cotton and
wool, and also cotton goods may be dyed by this
process. The color is not so handsome nor so
durable on cotton as on woolen or silk.

A single pound of woolen goods requires about
four gallons of water to work it in easily, when
dyeing. Larger quantities of these goods do not
need quite so much water in proportion.

For the preliminary solution of the aniline-red
powder in the earthen vessel for one pound of
goods, Magenta shade, use about one quart of
cold water. .

If aniline-red powder is heated in a kettle with
water, a large portion of it will concrete on to
the kettle, and become almost insoluble. For
this reason it should be dissolved in a little cold
water before added to the dye-bath.

When convenient or practicable, let the aniline
red powder remain in the vessel of cold water
over a night, before straining and using.

These aniline red colors can be dyed in much
less time, when the expense can be afforded, by
first dissolving the ani ine red in a bottle with a
little warm alcohol. The alcoholic solution or
tincture is to be added from time to time to the

 

DICTIOIVARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

warm or hot dye-bath, till the color on the goods
is of the desired shade. e goods are to be re-
moved from the dye-bath before each addition of
the alcoholic solution, and the bath is to be well
stirred before the goods are returned. The at.
coholic solution should be first dropped into a
little water, and well mixed, and the mixture
should then be strained into the dye bath.

If a particle of aniline red gets into the dye.
bath before dissolved, it will cause the goods to
be spotted, or dyed unevenly.

Utensils that have been used with aniline red
may be cleaned first with water, then with a warm
mixture of water and chloride of lime, and lastly
with clean water. Alcohol will be required to
remove any concretions of aniline red that may
be found on kettles or utensils.‘

For one pound of woolen goods, Magenta
shade, 96 grains of aniline red will be required.
S. Aniline red for one pound qfwoolm goods,
zllagtnia .rlmdt. For a Solferino shade on a
pound of goods, put up 64 grains of aniline red,
S]; gnilz'ne ml for one pound quoods, Solferina
.r a e.

For 96 grains of aniline red six fluid ounces of
alcohol will be required. More alcohol can be
used with advantage, when the expense can be
afforded. An avoirdupois ounce of commercial
aniline red requires from four to eight gills of
alcohol for its complete solution, but most gener-
ally six gills are sufficient. Troy or apothecary
grain weights are to be used in putting up these
dyes, as the grain weight is the same in quantity
in all the systems of weights used in drug
stores.

RED, HYPERNIC.—Hypernic red is ge-
nerally used for carpets and zephyrs. 100 pounds
of yarn are boiled in a solution of x 5 pounds of
alum, and 3 pounds half-refined tartar, for one
hour, or, what is just as well, laid over night in
the hot liquid. The color is much improved if
this prepared yarn can lay a few days in the at-
mosphere before coloring it red. In fresh water
boil 30 pounds of hypernic, or beechwood, for
ten minutes. Cool the liquid to 170° Fahr.; then
add 3 pounds of whiting, or chalk; handle in
this the prepared am, for ten minutes; bring
up the heat to 200 , when the yarn will be a fine
red ; in half an hour it will be ready to take out
and cool. For carpet yarn, it is not necessary to
rinse, but to dry as it is. If hard water is to be
used, as in some localities, the chalk is un-
necessary; but the latter surely adds brilliancy
to the color, equaling cochineal. Use in the
preparation no blue vitriol, which dulls the

color.

RED DYE for Cotton. Take muriate of tin
1% of a tea cup; add sufficient water to cover the
goods well, bring it to a boiling heat, putting in
the goods 1 hour, stirring often; take out the
goods and empty the kettle and put in clean wa-
ter with nic-wood I 1b., steeping it for % hour,
at hand heat; then put in the goods and increase
the heat for 1 hour, not bringing to a boil at all;
air the goods and dip an hour as before; wash
without soap.

RED MADDER.—-This color is mostly used
for army uniforms. To 100 pounds of fabric,
use 20 pounds of alum, pounds of tartar, and
5 ounds of scarlet spirit. After these are dis-
so ved, enter the goods, and let them boxl {or
two hours; then take them out, let cool, and lay
over night. Into fresh water stir 75 pounds of

WASHING, BLEACHING AzVD DYEING.

ood Holland madder. Enter the fabric at 120°

ah., and bring it up to 200° in the course of an
hour, during which time it must be handled well
to secure evenness ; then rinse and dry.

DYEING TURKEY RED.—-This is a tedi-
ous, long process, and only rofitable when pro-
duced in large quantities. he most expensive
works for this pur ose are in Elberfeld, Prussia,
and the following 15 one of the methods there in
use:

First 0peration.—loo pounds of yarn are first
boiled in a weak soda lye, and afterwards well
rinsed in the river.

Second 0 emtion.-—Soak 25. pounds of sheep~
dung for a ew days in a solution of to pounds
of soda; then add to it 6 ounds of olive oil;
strain it through a sieve; t en handle through
this the yarn, skein after skein; wring each out
loosely, and lay it on slats, but so that no large
lumps accumulate, as it will heat and set it on
fire; the yarn must be turned from time to time
on the slats, to secure an even drying; then fin-
ish the drying in a moderately warm room of
148° F ah. After it is dry the same operation is
gone through with as at first; and the yarn re-
ceives from two to four operations through the
dung and oil, according to the darkness of the
shade wanted; it must be dried each time.

leim' 0femz‘z'an.—6 pounds of olive oil and
[0 pounds of soda are mixed in about 6 pails of
water; if the oil should not become mixed and
some swim on the top, more soda is required.
Handle the yarn, skein after skein, through this
as before; wring out loosely, and hang it up
again to dr ; the drying out to be very slow, so
as to give t e oil time to ferment in connection
with the oxygen, as it is considered that the
warm oil can penetrate the fiber better; this op-
eration also is repeated two or three times every
time it is dried.

Fourt/z Operation—To the old remaining oil-
bath adda solution of [0 pounds of soda; take
the yarn through again as before, and dry.

Fifi/z 0pemtion.-Now lay the yarn into a
warm solution of to pounds of soda for 5 hours,
to free it from the superfluous oil not absorbed
by the fiber, then rinse it well in the river.

Sixth 0pemtion.—Take the yarn through a
decoction of 20 pounds of ground nutgalls and
to pounds of sumach, in sufficient water, skein
after skein; wring it out, and dry in the open
air ; turn it often, so as to secure an even
color.

Seventh 0pcmtion.—-3o pounds of good alum,
free from any iron, such as will not show a blue
shade if a few drops of yellow prussiate of pot-
ash solution are added; otherwise it will not
make abright color. This alum is neutralized
from its free sulphuric acid by a solution of 3
pounds of soda slowly added, so as not to boil it
over by the too sudden escape of carbonic acid
gas; pass the yarn through this yet warm solu-
tion of alum, wring it out, and dry as before, but
not too hot, as the acid of the alum might injure
the cotton or crystallize the alum.

Eight/z 0pemtz'em.—The yarn is now freed
from the loosely superfluous alum adherin to
the fiber by soaking it in warm water, and rins-
ing well in the river.

Mat/z 0pemlz'on.—Into a suitable warm bath
stir loo ounds of good madder; add 50 pounds
of beef b ood; stir it well and enter the yarn;
handk- quick at first, so as to get it even, and

 

355

bring it to a boil during I hour; then sling the ‘
skeins together and dro them into the liquor,
and let them boil for one our. It will be surer
even by coloring only 25 pounds of yarn at a
time; then rinse it.

Tent}; 0peration.—The yarn is again taken
through an oil bath with soda as before and
dried; then boil it in a solution of 5 pounds of
olive oil, 6 pounds of castile soap, and 5 pounds
of soda, from which it will come out bright red ;
then rinse it.

Eleven”: 0pem!z'on.—To still more brighten
the color, without drying, put the yarn into clean
bags and boil it for two hours in a bath contain-
ing 15 pounds of good white soap, 1% pounds
of tin crystals, and % pound of nitric acid.

Then take it out, rinse while yet hot, when it
will be at last done.

This is the only fast-red which is good for
bleached goods ; others are less durable.

RED DYE for Wool.—A good and bright
red color may be obtained on wool by the use of
lac-dye, in the following way: In the first place,
a tolerably stiff paste is made of the lac-dye and
sulphuric acid, and this is allowed to stand for a
day. For dyeing to pounds of wool, one pound
of tartar, two thirds of a pound of salts of tin,
and three quarters of a pound of the paste just
mentioned are re uired. The wool must be
boiled in the bath or three puarters of an hour,
after which, as a matter 0 course, it'must be
carefully rinsed and dried. ‘-

RIBBONS, to War/L—As washing and doing
up ribbons is quite a source of economy, it is not
every lady that knows that, with the exception
of a few delicate colors, pink, sky-blue, &c., al-
most any ribbon can be washed and ironed, and
made to look nearly if not quite as well as new.
To wash ribbons, make aclear lather of clean
white soap, the water as warm as you can bear
your hands; rub the ribbon through this ; soap
may also be applied where there are grease spots
on the wrong side; rinse in cold water. As
soon as washed, without hanging out to dry,
have ready a hot iron, and press them out while
wet; press on the wron side; they will wrinkle,
and never look well, i not pressed while wet.
If you wish to stiffen them, dip them before iron-
ing, in a solution of gum arabic; when ironed
smooth, take the scissors and trim off the ends.
I have renewed narrow satin ribbons, yellow
and white, in this way, when you would not
know they had ever been worn; also wide col-
ored ribbons, black, etc. V

SCARFS (China Crape), T o Wash—If the
fabric be good, these articles of dress can be
washed as frequently as may be required, and
no diminution of their beauty will be discover-
able, even when the various shades of green have
been employed among other colors in the pat-
terns. In cleaning them make a strong lather
of boiling water; sufl'er it to cool; when cold,
or nearly so, wash the scarf quickly and thor-
oughly, dip it immediately in cold hard water in
which a little salt has been thrown (to preserve
the colors), rinse, squeeze, and hang it out to
dry in the open air; pin it at its extreme edge to
the line, so that it may not in any part be folded
to. ether; the more rapidly it dries the clearer it

1 be.

SCARLET (Coehz'neal) DYE, (old Mode).—~
In former times, when cochineal was very ex-
pensive, the goods were colored in two waters,

356

with nitrate of tin. By this process, the coch-
ineal colors only the outside of the fabric (the
cut showing white in broadcloth), and about
thirty per cent. less of cochineal is used than in
scarlet colored with muriate of tin in one opera-
tion; but it is useful for braided scarlet random.
To 100 pounds of fabric dissolve 10 pounds of
nitrate of tin, 5 pounds of cream of tartar, I
pound of flavine. The nitrate of tin should be
nude thus: 10 pounds ‘nitric acid, 36° 13.; 5
pounds muriatic acid, 22° B.; 5 pounds water;
mix these ingredients, and add 1 pound feath-
ered tin, small quantities to prevent overheating.
Boil it for ten minutes; cool off to 170°; enter
the goods, and boil them for one hour; then take
out, cool, and rinse. To fresh water add 7
pounds of coehineal, well ground, and 2 pounds
of starch in solution, and strain; let all boil for
five minutes; cool the dye to 180°; add 1 pound
of nitrate of tin; handle the fabric well, and boil
for three quarters of an hour; then take it out,
cool, and rinse. This is a very bright scarlet,
and is used for scarlet random; only use no
flavine in the preparation of the random, to
secure a good white. This scarlet requires two
waters; the cochineal would not adhere to the
wool with nitrate of tin, as it does with the mu-
riate of tin in one operation. In all scarlets, the
yellow shade is governed by the quantity of
citron bark or flavine used. I find a very foolish
habit, in many dye houses, of letting the liquor
run half away after every dip is colored; the old
liquor, or second kettle, makes not only a better
color, but will save at least twenty per cent. of
dye stuff and heat. Of course common sense
must govern the judgment of the operator, or the
acid will be too strong in the dye, after several

d1 5.

L:S‘CAIELEY‘ wit/z LAC DYE. —For 100
pounds of flannel or yarn, take 25 pounds of
ground lac dye, 15 ounds of scarlet spirit, (as
below), 5 pounds 0 tartar, 1 pound of flavine,
according to shade, I pound of tin crystals, 5
pounds of muriatic acid. Boil all for fifteen
minutes. then cool the dye to 170° Fah.; enter
the goods, and handle them quickly at first; let
them boil one hour; rinse them while yet hot,
before the gum and impurities harden. This
color stands scouring with soap better than coch-
ineal scarlet, but this is in consequence of a
larger amount of acid being used than is neces-
sary with cochineal scarlet. To this color, a
small quantity of sulphuric acid may be used, as
it dissolves the gum. The quantity of lac dye
should be regulated by its quality.

SCARLET DYE for Wool.—For ever 100
pounds of fabric, boil, in a suitable kett e, 11
pounds of ground Honduras cochineal, 5 pounds
of half-refined tartar or 3 pounds of tartaric acid,
2 pounds of oxalic acid, I pound of tin crystals,
1% pounds of flavine, 10 pounds of scarlet spirit.
(The latter is prepared as follows: Take 16
pounds muriatic acid, 22" B., 1 pound feathered
tin, 2 pounds water. The acid should be put in
a stoneware pot, and the tin added, and allowed
to dissolve; the mixture should be kept a few
days before using.) After it has boiled for about
fifteen minutes, cool the dye to 180° Fab. ; enter
the goods, handle them quickly at first, and let
them boil slowly for one hour, when they will
be a good scarlet. Take them out, cool, and
rinse in cold water. If it should happen that the
wool or fi'annel shows some white hair, which is

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

generally the case when new wool is used, then
add 5 pounds of raw muriatic acid to the dye.
This powerful agent will work wonders in scar.
lets, oranges, and pinks, as it tans the wool,
which is perhaps a little greasy, and prevents the
tin crystals from fastening too quickly to it, and
thereby evener colors are obtained. This latter
fact is very valuable, and not generally known.

S HA WLS, SCARFS, eta, T o Chara—If the
fabric be good, these articles of dress can be
washed as frequently as may be required, and no
diminution of their beauty will be discoverable,
even when the various shades of green have
been employed among other colors in the pat
terns. In cleaning them, make a strong lathe)
of boiling water ; suffer it to cool; when cold, or
nearly so, wash the scarf quickly and thoroughly,
dip it immediately in cold hard water in which a
little salt has been thrown (to preserve the col-
ors,) rinse, squeeze, and hang it out to dry in
the open air; pin it at its extreme edge to the
line, so that it may not in any part be folded to-
gether; the more rapidly it dries the clearer it
will be.

S HA “71.5 ( Woolen), Swirl: Muller! qf Clean.
ing.—Scrape one pound of soap, boil it down in
sufficient water. When cooling, beat it with the
hand; it will be a sort of jelly. Add three
tablespoonfuls of spirit of turpentine, and one
of spirit of hartshorn. Wash the articles thor-
oughly in it. Then rinse in cold water until all
the soap is taken off, then in salt and water.
Fold between two sheets, taking care not to
allow two folds of the article washed to lie to~
gether. Mangle, and iron with a very cool iron.
Shawls done in this way look like new. Only
use the salt where there are delicate colors that
may strike.

SHA WLS (Casfimfle), To Clian the Wfiz'te
Middle of. — Prepare a mixture of equal parts
of camphor, W. I. molasses and clean soft soap.
Fold a sheet and lay upon the bench or table
used. Single your shawl and lay the white part
upon the sheet, then with a clean white cloth rub
the mixture thoroughly into all the white. Rub
first the right side, then turn and rub the other
side. Rinse thoroughly in luke-warm water,
taking care not to wet the colors unnecessarily.
Press the water out, and wring in a dry cloth.
Iron while damp, crease through the middle and
you will be surprised at the newness of your old
shawl.

SHIR T-BOS OMS, To Polzk/z.—- Put a little
common white wax in your starch, say two
ounces to the pound; then if you use any thin
patent starch, be sure you use it warm, otherwise
the wax will get cold and gritty, and spot your
linen, giving it the appearance of being stained
with grease. It is different with collar starch—
it can be used quite cold; however, of that anon.
Now, then, about polishing shirts: starch the
fronts and wristbands as stiff as you can. Always
starch twice, that is, starch and dry, then starch
again. Iron your shirt in the usual way, mak-
ing the linen nice and firm, but without. any at-
tempt at a good finish; don’t lift the plans; your
shirt is now read for polishing, but you ought
to have a board t e same size as a common shirt.
board, made of hard wool, and covered with only
one ply of plain cotton cloth. Put this board
into the breast of your shirt, damp the front very
lightly with a wet sponge, then take a polishing
iron, which is flat and beveled a little at one end

 

WASHING, BLEA CHING AND DYEING.

V

——polish gently with the beveled part, taking care
not to drive the linen up into wave-like blisters;
of course this requires a little practice, but if you
are careful and persevere, in a short time you
will be able to give that enamel-like finish which
seems to be so much wanted.

SHIRT COLL/IRS, T a Dre:.r.-— For this

urpose use the best starch, say two pounds, and
our ounces of wax and six and a half pints of
water; first dissolve the wax in the boiling wa-
ter, take the vessel of? the fire and allow it to
stand for five minutes; during this time dissolve
the starch in the smallest possible quantity of
cold water, then pour it gradually into the vessel
and boil for twenty—five minutes—keep stirring
all the time; this starch can be used quite cold;
rub it well into the collars, wring as tight as you
can, finish by wringing in a cloth, then iron;
thus you will have them stiFf without being hard,
and when well dressed will have that beautiful
elastic finish so much admired in new collars.

SILK: To (Ileana—I. Dresses cleaned by the
following method have not the appearance of
being cleaned: Quarter of a pound of honey,
quarter of a pound of soft soap, two wine glasses
of gin, three gills of boiling water; mix and let
stand until blood-warm; spread the silk on a
clean table with a cloth under it—there must be
no gathers; dip a nail brush into the mixture,
and rub the silk well, especially where there are
stains or the most dirt or spots, and with a
sponge wet the whole breadth generally, and
rub gently; then rinse the silk in cold soft water;
hang it up to drain, and iron it damp. The
quantity stated is for a plain dress.—2. Grate
raw potatoes to a fine pulp in water, and pass
the liquid matter through a coarse sieve in an~
other vessel of water; let the mixture stand
undisturbed till the fine white particles of the
potato are precipitated; then pour the mucilagin-
ous liquor from the fecula, and preserve it for
use. The article to be cleaned should be spread
upon a linen cloth upon a table, and washed with
a sponge di ped in the potato liquor, until the
dirt is per ectly separated, then rinsed in clear
water several times without wringing. Two
middle sized potatoes will be sufficient for one
pint of water. Iron whilst damp on the wrong
side. Should the silk be of more than one color,
it is desirable to wet a small piece first, lest the
dress should be spoiled by“ moisture, causing the
colors to run; but for selticolored silks, the direc-
tion is an excellent one; and satinets, even of
light colors, if not greased or stained, make up
again nearly equal to new.—3. Take a quarter of
a pound of soft soap, a teaspoonful of brandy
and a pint of gin; mix all well together and strain
through a cloth. With a sponge or flannel spread
the mixture on each side of the silk without creas-
ing it; wash it in two or three waters and iron
it on the wrong side. It will look as good as
new, and the process will not injure silks of even
the most delicate colors.

SILK S (Colored), T o Clam—Put some white
soap into boiling water, and heatit until dissolved
in a strong lather. At a hand heat put in the
article: If strong, it may be rubbed as in wash-
ing; rinse it uickly in warm water, and add oil
of vxtriol, su cient to give another water a sour-
[Sh taste, if for bright yellows, crimsons, maroons,
and scarlets; but for oranges, fawns, browns,
or other shades, use no acid. For bright scarlet,
use a solution of tin. Gently squeeze and then

 

357

roll it in a coarse sheet, and wring it. Hang it
in a warm room to dry, and finish it by calender-
ing or mangling.

For pinks, rose colors, and thin shades, etc.,
instead of oil of vitriol, or solution of tin, prefer
lemon juice, or white tartar, or vinegar.

For blues, purples, and their shades, add a
small quantity of American pearlash; it will re-
store the colors. Wash the articles like a linen
garment, but, instead of, wringing, gently squeeze
and sheet them, and when dry, finish them with
fine gum water, or dissolved isinglass, to which
add some pearlash, rubbed on the wrong side;
then pin them out.

Blues of all shades are dyed with archil, and
afterwards dipped in a vat; twice cleaning with
pearlash, restores the color. For olive—greens,
a small quantity of verdigris dissolved in water,
or a solution of copper, mixed with the water,
will revive the color again.

SILA’ ( White), To Bleach—According to'a
French patent, an improvement upon the ordin-
ary method of bleaching wool and silk by sulphur,
consists in the use of a solution, in the propor-
tion of four pounds of oxalic acid and four pounds
of salt, in two quarts of water. This is said to
be available for silk in all its forms, as well as
for crude, carded, spun, or woven wool. The
material is allowed to remain an hour in this
fluid, and then is washed off in warm water and
dried. 0r wash the articles clean, rinse in suds,
and smoke with brimstone while wet; the silk
must be brushed or washed with a sponge; if
rubbed, it will never press smoothly; expose the
goods to the air, and the odor will soon pass off.

SILK (Blade), T o Ramadan—I. Boil an old
black kid glove till it begins to dissolve, strain
the water, and sponge with it the right side of
the silk; iron while damp on the wrong side.—
2. Take two raw potatoes of ordinary size, pare
them, and remove the core if they are hol ow.
Slice them into a half pint of cold water, and
leave them over night. The next morning,
sponge the silk with the water, not wetting it
too freely; then iron it, and its appearance will
be greatly improved—3. To bullock’s gall, add
boiling water sufficient to make it warm, and
with a clean sponge rub the silk well on both
sides; squeeze it well out, and proceed again in
like manner. Rinse it in spring water, and
change the water till perfectly clean, dry it in the
air, and pin it out on a table; but first dip the
sponge in glue water, and rub it on the wrong
side; then dry it before a fire.

SILK (Blach) Revivtr.—~Boi1 logwood in wa~
ter half an hour; then simmer the silk half an
hour; take it out, and put into the dye a little
blue vitriol, or green copperas; cool it and sim-
mer the silk for half an hour. Or, boil a hand-
ful of fig leaves in two quarts of water until it be
reduced to one pint; s ueeze the leaves, and bot-
tle the liquor for use. hen wanted sponge the
silk with it.

SILK (White or very Light), To Clean.-—‘
Take one quart of lukewarm -water, and mix with
it four ounces of soft soap, four ounces of hone ,_
and a good sized wineglass of gin. The silk
must be unpicked and laid in widths on a kitchen
table; then take a common scrubbing brush quite
new, dip it in the mixture, and rub the silk
firmly up and down on both sides, so as to sat-
urate it. Rinse it in cold water twice until free
from soap, hang it on a clothes horse to drain

358

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DA Y WANTS.

 

until half dry; then iron it with a piece of thin
muslin between it and the iron, or it will be
marked on the ironed side. The silk when laid
on the table must be kept quite smooth, so that
every part may come under the brush. White
silk requires a little blue in the water.

SILK; PVASIIING.—No person should ever
wring or crush a piece of silk when it is wet,
because the creases thus made will remain for-
ever, if the silk is thick and hard. The way to
wash silk is to spread it smoothly upon a clean
board, rub white soap upon it, and brush it with
a clean, hard brush. The silk must be rubbed
until all the grease is extracted, then the soap
should be brushed off with clean, cold water,
applied to both sides. The cleansing of silk is a
very nice operation. Most of the colors are liable
to be extracted with washing in hot suds, espe-
cially blue and green colors. A little alum, dis-
solved in the last water that is brushed on silk,
tends to prevent the colors from running. Al-
cohol and camphene, mixed together, is used for
removing grease from silk.

SILK, WRINKLED.—To make silk, which
has been wrinkled and tumbled, appear like new
—-sponge it on the surface with a weak solution
of gum arabic or white glue, and iron it on the
wrong side.

SILK; To Remove Greasefrom.—A sure and
safe way to remove grease stains from silks is to
rub the spot quickly with brown paper ; the
friction will soon draw out the grease ; or lay
the silk upon a table, with an ironing blanket
under it, the right side of the silk downward;
put a piece of brown paper on the top, and apply
a flat iron just hot enough to scorch the paper.
We have found this recipe more efficacious than
any scouring drops ever compounded.

SILIi’, To Remove Wax Stain:from.-——Mix
powdered French chalk with lavender water to
the thickness of mustard. Put it on the stain,
and rub it gently with the finger or palm of the
hand. Put a sheet of clean blotting paper and
brown paper over it, and smooth it with a warm
iron. When dry the chalk must be removed,
and the silk gently dusted with a white handker-
chief. If a faint mark still remains, a second
application of French chalk and lavender water
will generally remove it. If the wax stain has
fallen thickly on the silk, it should be removed
first carefully with a penknife.

SILK STOCKINGS (IV/rite), To Was/z.—
Heat some rain or soft water, and while on the
fire cut into it slices of good yellow soap, to make
a lather; put the stockings in while the lather is
warm, but not scalding, and wash them in two
such waters (a wineglassful of gin in the first
water is an improvement); rinse them well in
lukewarm water, having ready a second rinsing
water, in which is mixed 3. little blue (not the
common kind, but such as is used for muslins
and lacefi, or rose pink, which can be procured
at the Chemist’s, and is used in the same way as
the blue, by tying it up in a piece of flannel and
squeezing it into the water. After rinsing, put
the stockings between towels and let them get
almost dry; place them on a small sheet, lay
them out quite flat, as they are when first pur-
chased, tack them to the sheet with a needle and
thread, turn the sheet over them, and have them
mangled. ~ If it is not convenient to have them
mangled, the next best plan is to put four or six
stockings one uponthe other between a piece of

 

calico, la them on a stone doorstep, and beat
them wit the rolling pin. They must not be
mangled or beaten in towels, as the pattern of
the towels would be impressed on them. If the
stockings have lace fronts they will more par
ticularly require the tacking mentioned above to
make them look nice. No soda or washing
powder of any kind must be put to them, and
they must be done quickly, and not left lying

about.

SLA TE DYE, For Cation or Woolen—Boil
the bark in an iron kettle, skim out the chips
after it has boiled sufficiently, and then add cop-
peras to set the dye. If you wish it very dark
add more copperas. This is excellent for stock-

rugs.

SLA TE DYE, For Silk—To make a slate,
take a pan of warm water and about a teacupful
of logwood liquor, pretty strong, and a piece of
'pearlash, of the size of a nut; take gray~colored
goods, and handle a little in this liquor, and it is
finished. If too much logwood is used, the col-
or will be too dark.

SOAPSUDS, CLEARING.—It is generally
known that a little dissolved alum is very effect-
ive in clearing muddy water; but recent ex eri-
ments show its further virtues. In a place w ere
water was scarce, a little alum was dissolved in
hot water, and thrown into a tub of thick soap-
suds. In a short time the soap curdled, and ac-
companied by the muddy particles, sank to the
bottom, leaving the water above perfectly clear,
pure, and devoid of smell. This water was
found very useful for washing clothing, when
poured off the sediment. A similar result was
attained in a quick manner by filling a boiler
with soapsuds, placing it on a fire, and throwing
a bit of alum into it. When the suds boiled, the
scum went over, and left the water clear, soft,
and as useful for washing clothes as it had ori-
ginally been. i

S TARCII, Alum in.—For starching muslins,
ginghams, and calicoes, dissolve a piece of alum
the size of a shellbark, for every pint of starch,
and add to it. By so doing, the colors will keep
bright for a long time, which is very desirable
when dresses must be often washed, and the cost
is but a trifle. .

S T ARCHING, CLEAR.—This is practiced
as follows: Rinse the articles in three waters,
dry them, and dip them in a thick starch, previ-
ously strained through muslin; squeeze them,
shake them gently, and again hang them up to
dry; and when dry, dip them twice or thrice in
clear water, squeeze them, spread them on a
linen cloth, roll them 11 in it, and let them lie
an hour before ironing t em. Muslins will look
well when starched and clapped dry, while the
starch is hot, then folded in a damp cloth till
they become quite damp before ironing them.
If muslins are sprinkled they are apt to be spot-
ted. Some ladies clap muslins, then dry them,
and afterward sprinkle them.

S TARCIJ, FLOUR—Mix flour gradually
with cold water, so that it may be free from
lumps. Stir in cold water till it will pour easrly;
then stir it into a pot of boiling water, and let it
boil five or six minutes, stirring it frequently.
A little spermaceti will make it smoother. .This
starch will answer very well for cotton and linen.

S T ARCH, G U!!! ARABIC—Take 2 ounces
of white gum arabic powder, put it into a pitch-

er, and pour on it a pint or more of boiling water

WASHING, BLEA CHING AND DYEING.

3S9

 

(according to the degree of strength you desire),
and then, having covered it, let it set all night.
In the morning pour it carefully from the dregs
into a clean bottle, cork it, and keep it for use.
A tablespoonful of gum water stirred into a pint
of starch that has been made in the usual man-
ner, will give the lawns (either white, black, or
printed), a look of newness, when nothing else
can restore them after ,washing. It is also good,
much diluted, for thin white muslin and bob-
binet.

STARCIJ, GLUE.—Boil a piece of glue four
inches square, in three quarts of water. Keep
it in a bottle well corked. Use for calicoes.

S T ARCIY, T o Improve.—-To each bowl of
starch add one teas oonful of epsom salts, and
dissolve in the usuai) way by boiling; the fabric
thus starched will be considerably stiffer, besides
being rendered to a certain degree fire-proof.

STARCH LUS T ER.—A substance known
by this title is used for washing purposes which,
when added to the starch, causes the linen to
which it is applied to assume not only a high
polish but a dazzling whiteness. A portion of
the size of an old-fashioned cent added to half a
pound of starch, and boiled with it for two or
three minutes, will produce the best results.
This substance is nothing more than stearine,
colored by a slight addition of ultra-marine blue,
the essential ingredient being the stearine ; and
with or without the coloring matter, will be
found to add ver much to the beauty of linen
articles to which it is applied.

S T ARCH P0115117. —-—Take common dry
potato or wheat starch sufficient to make a pint
of starch when boiled. Then add half a drachm
of spermaceti, and half a drachm of white wax,
and then use it as common starch, only using
the iron as hot as possible. In this manner a
brilliant polish is produced.

STEEL D YE (Dar/é). —Black wool—it may
be natural or colored, IO lbs.—white wool 1%
ibs. Mix evenly together and it will be beauti-

ul.

S T RA W C 0101? fir Silk. —Smartweed,
boiled in brass and set with alum, will color a
fine straw color.

S T RA W B ONNEJ‘ S, T o Bleach—Straw
hats which have turned yellow may be bleached
by the use of a soap prepared by taking any
good soda soap and precipitating it from its solu-
tion by means of common salt, and adding to it
one-fourth the weight of sulphate of soda, previ~
ously rubbed into a mass with water, then dry-
ing the product. About equal parts, by weight,
of water are to be poured upon this, and for
every two pounds of soap, half an ounce of spir-
its of sal—ammoniac is to be added; and after the
whole has assumed a gelatinous consistency, one
part of the mass is to be dissolved in eight arts
of warm water; smaller proportions o the
foregoing will, of course, answer for a few arti-
cles. The objects to be bleached are to be wash-
ed by means of a brush in this solution, and
transferred, while still moist, into water acidu-
lated with hydrochloric acid (twenty-five parts
water to one and a half of acid), and allowed to
remain a few hours in this liquid. They are then
to be washed with fresh cold water, and dried.
Experiment has proved the results of this method
of bleaching to be exceedingl satisfactory.

S TRA W B ONNE T S, I; Clean—The bon-
nets may be washed with soap and water, then

 

rinsed in clear water, and dried in the air. They
must then be washed over with white of an egg,
well beaten. The wire must be removed before
washin .

STRA W BONNE TS, T a Dye C/zestnut
Brown.—F or twenty-five straw hats: 1 pound
and a half of ground sanders, 2 pounds of ground
curcuma, three-quarters of a pound of powdered
gall nuts, or sumac, one-tenth of a pound of
rasped logwood. These ingredients are allowed
to boil in a kettle with the straw hats ; the boil-
er, however, must be large enough so that the
hats are not pressed against each other. After
two hours’ boiling the hats are withdrawn, rins-
ed, and allowed to remain over night in a bath
of nitrate of iron of 4 degrees Baume, when they
are washed. A darker brown may be obtained
by increasing the quantity of sanders. When
dry, the hats are brushed with a brush of dogs’
(couch) grass, in order to give them the desired
luster.

STRA W BONNETS, To Dye Black—For
twenty-five straw hats : They are put in a boil-
ing bath of four pounds of logwood, one pound
of gall nuts, or sumac, and one-half pound of
curcuma, or fustic. The hats are allowed to re-
main therein for two hours. They are hereupon
immersed in a bath of nitrate of iron of four de-
grees Baume, when they are carefully rinsed in
water, dried, and brushed.

STRA IV and CHIP HA TS, To Vanzixfi
Black—Best alcohol 4 oz. ; pulverized, black
sealing-wax 1 oz. ; put them into a vial, and put
the vial into a warm place, stirring or shaking
occasionally, until the wax is dissolved; apply it
when warm by means of a soft brush, before the
fire or in the sun.

It gives stiffness to old straw hats or bonnets,
makes a beautiful gloss, and resists wet; if any
thing else is required, just apply it to small bask-
ets also, and see how nicely they will look.

STRA WBONNETS, To Dye Silver Gray.
—For twenty-five straw hats: In order to pro-
duce this color, the whitest hats must be select-
ed; they are first softened in a bath of crystal-
lized soda, to which some clear lime-water has
been added. As dye-bath, the following decoc-
tion is used, and the hats are kept therein under
constant boiling. The recipe for the bath is four
pounds of pure alum, three-eighths of a ound
of tartaric acid, some ammoniacal cochinea , and
carmine of indigo; a little sulphuric acid may be
added to this decoction according to necessity.
The sulphuric acid is employed in order to neu-
tralize the alkali of the cochineal dye. When
the last mentioned ingredients are made use of,
the hats are allowed to remain for an hour longer
in the boiling bath, when they are rinsed in
slightly acidulated water.

STRA WBONNE TS, Slate Dyefor.——First
soak the bonnet in rather strong warm suds for
I 5 minutes to remove sizing or stiffening; then
rinse in warm water, to get out the soap ; now
scald cudbear, I 02., in sufiicient water to cover
the hat or bonnet; work the bonnet in this dye,
at 180° of heat, until you get a light purple;
now have a bucket of cold water, blued with the
extract of indigo, % oz., and work or stir the
bonnet in this, until the tint pleases; dry, then
rinse out with cold water, and dry again, in the
shade. If you get the purple too deep in shade
the final slate will be too dark.

S T RA W BONNE TS, To Dye Violet—Take

.360

DICTIONARY OFEVERKDAY WANTS.

 

four pounds of alum, one pound of tartaric acid,
and one pound of chloride of tin. Dissolve these
ingredients in water, and allow the hats to re-
main in the boiling solution two hours; add then
so much of a decoction of logwood and carmine
of indigo as is re uisite for obtaining the desired
shade, and rinse (finally in water in which some
alum has been solved. It is self-evident that for
the above mentioned quantities of mordants and
dyes the requisite amount of water has to be
taken.

STRA W [17.4 TS, To lV/zz'tm.—- Scrape stick
sulphur with a knife, mix the powder to a mush
with water, plaster it thickly over the straw, and
place in the hot sun for several hours; brush off
when dry. An easy and effectual plan.

SUMMER SUITS, To Was/z. — Summer
suits are nearly all made of white or buff linen,
pique, cambric or muslin, and the art of preserv-
ing the new appearance after washing is a mat-
ter of the greatest importance.

Common washerwomen spoil everything with
soda, and nothing is more frequent than to see
the delicate tints of lawns and percales turned
into dark blotches and muddy streaks by the ig-
norance and vandalism of a laundress.

It is worth while for ladies to pay attention to
this, and insist upon having their summer dress-
es washed according to the directions which
they should be prepared to give their laundress.

In the first place, the water should he tepid,
the soap should not be allowed to touch the
fabric; it should be washed and rinsed quick,
turned upon the wrong side, and hung in the
shade to dry, and when starched (in thin boiled
but not boiling starch) should be folded in sheets
or towels, and ironed upon the wrong side, as
soon as possible.

But linen should be washed in water in which
hay has been boiled, or a quart of bran. This
last will be found to answer for starch as well,
and is excellent for print dresses of all kinds,
but a handful of salt is very useful also to set the
colors of light cambrics and dotted lawns; and a
little beef’s gall will not only set but hlghten
yellow and purple tints, and has a good effect
upon green.

VEILS (Black Lace), T o Chum—Pass them
through warm water in which ox-gall has been
dissolved, a tablespoonful to a quart of water,
and then rinse in cold water. Stiffen by dipping
in water in which a bit of gum arabic or glue has
been dissolved; clap between the hands till
almost dry, then pin out nicely on a frame or
bed till entirely dry, and press between the folds
of a sheet.

VEILS (lV/zz'te Late), T 0 Clean.— Put the
veil into a strong lather of white soap and very
clear water, and let it simmer slowly for a quarter
of an hour. Take it out and squeeze it well, but
be sure not to rub it. Rinse it in two cold wa-
ters, with a drop or two of liquid blue in the
last. Have ready some very clear weak gum
arabic water, or some thin starch, or rice water.
Pass the veil through it, and clear it by clapping.
Then stretch it out even, and pin it to dry on a
linen cloth, making the edge as straight as pos~
sible, opening out all the scallops, and fastening
each with pins. When dry, lay a piece of thin
muslin smoothly over it, and iron it on the
wrong side.

VEILS (Black 733x213), To Renew—Dip them
in thin glue water; shake them gently until

 

nearly dry; spread black silk or cambric on the
ironing blanket, and press with a moderate
iron.

VELVET, To take Grease oul of.—-To take
grease out of velvet or cloth, get some turpen-
tine and pour it over the place that is greasy;
rub it till quite dry with a piece of clean flannel;
if the grease be not removed, repeat the a plica-
tion, and when done, brush the place we] ; and
hang up the garment in the open air in order to
take away the smell. _

VEL VE T, T o Restart—Cover a hot smooth ,.
ing iron with a wet cloth, and hold the velvet
firmly over it. The vapor arising will raise the
pile of the velvet with the assistance of a light
whisk.

VIOLET DYE. — This, like purple, is pro.
duced by a mixture of red and blue coloring mat-
ter, applied either together, or in succession. A
good violet may be given to silk or wool by pass-
ing it first through a solution of verdigris, then
through adecoction of logwood, and lastly through
alum water. A fast violet may be given by dy-
ing the goods a crimson with cochineal, without
alum or tartar, and, after rinsing, passing them
through the indigo vat. —— Linens or cottons are
first galled with 18 0/o of gall nuts, next passed
through a mixed mordant of alum, iron liquor,
and sulphate of copper, working them well, then
worked in a madder bath made with an equal
weight of root, and lastly brightened with soap
or soda. Another good method is to pass cloth
dyed Turkey red through the blue vat.—~VVool,
silk, cotton, or linen, mordanted with alum and
dyed in a logwood bath, or a mixed bath of Ar-
chil and Brazil, also takes a pretty, but false
violet.

W'ASHING, Hints on. ——The linen for Mono
day’s wash should be collected on Saturday,
sorted and put to soak in cold water according to
the various kinds. The body linen should be
put into one tub, the bed and table linen in
another, and the fine things separately. Plain
collars, cuffs, wristbands, should be strung
through the button holes on a piece of bobbin
long enough to enable the articles to be easily
divided for rubbing, starching, etc. Colored
muslins, prints, and flannels must be laid aside
to be washed in a different manner from white
calico or linen. Properly boiled suds are far bet-
ter than soap for washing, particularly if a wash—
ing machine be employed. The suds should be
prepared in the following manner :— Shred into
an earthenware jar the best yellow soap cut into
very fine shavings, and pour boiling water to
the quantity required. One pound of soap is
plenty for one gallon of water. Add to this
quantity half a pound of the best soda, and set
the jar (covered) on a stove or at the back of the
kitchen range till the soap is quite dissolved. .If
this be done on Saturday evening, the soap will
be a smooth jelly fit to use on Monday mormng.

WASHING F1. UIDS.—I. Take one pound
of sal soda and half a pound of unslaked lime,
put them into a gallon of water and boil twenty
minutes; let it stand till cool, then drain off and
put into a strong jar or jug; soak your dirty
clothes over night, or until they are wet through,
then wring them out and rub on plenty of soap,
and in one boiler of clothes, well covered WIth
water, add one teacupful of washing fluid; bOIl
half an hour briskly, and then wash them thor-
oughly through one suds, rinse, and your clothes

WASHING, BLEA CHING ArVD DYEING.

will look better than the old way of washing
twice before boiling.

2. Five pounds of sal soda, one pound of bo-
rax, one pound of unslaked lime. Dissolve the
soda and borax in one gallon of boiling water;
slake the lime in the same quantity of boiling
water; then pour them both into eight gallons
of cold water; stir a few times and let it stand
until morning, when the clear fluid should be
poured off into jars, ready for use. For two
pails full of water use half a pint of the com-
pound. Soak your clothes over night, putting
soap on the soiled parts. In the morning wring
them out and put them on to boil, first putting
some of the fluid and soap into the boiler. After
boiling ten or twelve minutes, take them out into
your machine or tub and the dirt will rub right
ofl"; then rinse well in two waters.

3. One and one quarter pound of washing soda,
% pound borax, and dissolve in 4 quarts water
by boiling. When the mixture is cold add about
one half a teacupful of water of ammonia (harts-
horn), and bottle for use, taking care to keep the
fluid corked from the air. For use take a cup-
ful to a pailful of water.

4. Sal soda and borax, % lb. each; gum
camphor, I 02.; alcohol, % pint. Dissolve the
soda and borax in one gallon of boiling rain wa-
ter, pour in two gallons of cold rain water, add
the camphor first dissolved in the alcohol, stir
well and bottle for use. Four tablespoonfuls of
the preparation are to be mixed withapint of
soft soap, and the clothes boiled in a suds made
of this. It is all the better if the clothes are soak-
ed over night, before putting them into the
suds.

5. Soak your clothes over night in clear, cold
water; in the morning have over the fire what
water is necessary to boil them in, add one ta-
blespoonful of saleratus, one pint of soft soap,
or one quarter of a bar of hard soap, wring or
drain your clothes from the water in which they
have stood over night, put them in your boiler,
boil three quarters of an hour, when they will
need but little rubbing, rinse, and your clothes
will be beautifully white. Your suds will be ex-
cellent for washing colored clothing of all kinds,
as it does not injure the nicest prints. One pound
of saleratus will do twenty washings for any
common famil .

W/{l T E D YE for Stilts—The silk is treated,
first of all, with soap, taking one quarter of a
pound to one pound of silk, boiled an hour in a
fresh soap solution, containing one and a half
ounces in the pound, taken through cold water,
and next sulphured. The sulphuring is repeated
three times, and after each time. the silk is steam-
ed at a temperature of 88—100” F. After the
last sulphuring the silk is steamed several times
till the sulphurous smell has entirely disappeared.
The silk is now washed twice in pure running or
soft (rain) water, passed into a strong, boiling
soap bath, drawn five times through the same,
wrung out, prepared, and dyed white, according
to pattern, in a fresh boiling bath of soap, to
which a little reddish aniline blue, soluble in a1-
cohol, has been added. The silk thus dyed white
is washed twice more, and then drawn five times
throu h a cold vinegar (acetic acid) bath. It is
then finished.

If the white has turned out too blue, some
ammoniacal cochineal is added to the vinegar
bath.

 

361

By this process every kind of white can be ob-
tained—pure white, milk white, bluish white, or
reddish white.

WINE COLOR DYfllflr I/VooL—For 5 lbs.
goods—camwood 2 lbs.; boil I 5 minutes and dip
the goods % hour; boil again and dip % hour;
then darken with blue vitriol I % oz. ; if not dark
enough, add copperas )4 oz.

IVOOLEN ARTICLES, To Clean. —-— The
shrinking and discoloring of woolen articles may
be, in great part, prevented by care in washing
them. Never wash them in hard water, nor wa-
ter softened by soda; nor should they be rubbed
with soap. The fibers of wool are covered with
little points, all directed one way. As the wool-
en is rubbed, these become tangled, and form a
kind of thick felt, by which means the article is
shrunk and thickened. For the same reason it
is not desirable to wring woolen things. Before
washing, woolen things should be well brushed
and shaken to get rid of the dust. Rain, or soft
river water, should have a strong lather made in
it with soap; or, if the things are very greasy,
oxgall should be added, in the proportion of half
a pint to six quarts of water; then boiling water
should be added to the lather to make it as hot
as it is possible to bear the hand in; and the
‘dirty woolen should be put in, and dipped and
raised repeatedly for several minutes. It should
then be squeezed (not wrung) as dry as possible
from the dirty, slimy liquor, and the process, if
necessary, repeated with some clean lather. If
the article is not very dirty, and becomes uite
clean in the first washing, the second was ing
may be in hot water only, without soap; and, in
either case, a blue-bag should be used in the last
water. When gall has been used, a third water
is necessary to take off the bad smell. When
the article is finished, it should be squeezed as
dry as can be, and dried as quickly as possible
in the open air, if the weather is fine.

WOOL, T o C [mum—Make a liquid of water
3 parts and urine I part; heat it as hot as you
can bear the hand in it; then put in the wool, a
little at a time, so as not to have it crowd; let it
remain in for 15 minutes; take it out over a
basket to drain; then rinse in running water, and
spread it out to dry; thus proceed in the same
liquor; when it gets reduced fill it up, in the
same proportions, keeping it at hand heat, all the
time not using any soa .

YELLOW D YE for Cotto1z.—Ist. Clean the
cloth or goods by steeping in soap-suds, then
rinse in several different messes of clean water,
and lay aside moist.

2d. Into a clean brass, copper, or wooden
vessel put the amount of clean warm water
deemed necessary to work the goods in easily,
then add the acetate of lead (previously dissolved
in a little hot water in a basin or kettle), and stir
with a wooden rod till well mixed; after which
put in the cloth or goods, and let them lie in 30
minutes or longer, stirring often.

3d. Into another clean earthen, wooden, or
metallic vessel put the amount of clean warm
water deemed requisite to work the goods in
easily, then add the bichromate of potash (previ-
ously dissolved in a little hot water in a brass or
iron kettle), and stir with a clean wooden rod
till well mixed; after which wring out the goods
evenly from the acetate of lead bath and work
them in this bichromate of potash bath fifteen
minutes or longer, then wring out, rinse in sev-

362

DICTIONARY OFEVERICDAY WANTS.

\

 

eral different messes of clean water, and dry in
the shade or in sunshine.

If the color is not even or full after one round
of dippings, repeat the dippings in both baths,
in the order above described, till the color is
even and satisfactory.

A single pound of cotton goods requires about
four gallons of water in each bath to work it in
easily. Larger quantities of these goods do not
need quite so much water in proportion.

YELLOW DYES for Cotton.—I. For three
pounds of goods, dissolve in six quarts of soft
water, six ounces of sugar of lead; dissolve three
ounces of the bichromate of potash in another
vessel and dip the goods, one piece at a time,
into the sugar of lead and then into the bichro-
mate; dry and rinse, and it is done.

2. For 5 lbs. of goods—sugar of lead 7 oz. ;
dip the goods two hours ; make a new dye with
bichromate of potash 4 02.; dip until the color

 

suits, wring out and dry; it not yellow enough,
repeat the operation.

3. The following substances impart a yellow
to goods, either at once, or after they have been
mordanted with alumina or tin :-—annotto, dyer’s
(imam, fustir, fusttl, French denies, gutrcz'tran
dark, turmz'rit, fiarberry root. Goods mordanted
with acetate of lead, and afterwards passed
through a bath of chromate of potash, ac uire a.
brilliant r/zromeyellow color; solution of su phate
or acetate of iron, followed by immersion in pot—
ash or lime-water, gives a yellow, 51% or orange,
—— 071%»;an dissolved in ammonia imparts a
golden yellow.

YELLOW DYE for Silk—For one pound
of silk—alum 3 oz.; sugar of lead % 02.; im-
merse the goods in the solution over ni ht; take
out, drain, and make a new dye with ustic one
pound; dip until the required color is ob-
tained.

WINES, LIQUORS AND VINEGAR.

ACID, Royal Strawberry—Take 3 pounds of
ripe strawberries, 2 ounces of citric acid, and I
quart of spring water. Dissolve the acid in the
water, and pour it on the strawberries, and let
them stand in a cool place 24 hours. Then drain
the liquid off, and pour it on 3 more pounds of
fruit; let it stand 24. hours. Add to the liquid
its own weight of sugar ; boil it 3 or 4 minutes
in a porcelain-lined preserve kettle, lest metal
may affect the taste, and, when cool, cork it in
bOttles lightly for 3 days, then tightly, and seal
them. Keep in a dry and cool place. It is deli-
cious for sick and well.

AD UL TERA 7'10qu Wine and Liquors.—
We have given considerable time to the investi-
gation of this question, and have come to the
conclusion that it is next to impossible to obtain
here real Sherry and Port wine, and very diffi-
cult to obtain real Brandy. The cheaper liquors,
such as Whisky, Gin, Apple Jack, Brandy, and
others are all made from high wines, and some-
times even low wines are employed for this pur-
pose. They are mixtures of alcohol, water, and
ethers, which, according to the process of fer-
mentation, distillation, and the materials employ-
ed, are of different composition and quality,
thereby characterizing the different liquors.
They are colored by either sugar coloring or ex-
tract of logwood. The fusel oil is the most ob-
jectionable, in fact highly poisonous, constituent
of these liquors, and ought to be removed as far
as possible without destroying or removing the
compound ethers of it. This is accomplished by
filtering through charcoal, or by distilling for
very high graded wine. We are aware, how-
ever, that it lies principally with the distiller
himself, in selecting the materials and conduct-
ing the fermentation properly, to avoid the form-
ation of an undue amount of fusel oil. The
quality of these liquors may be tested in the fol-
lowing way :—A certain volume is subjected to
distillation in a retort, connected with a Liebig’s
cooler to condense the alcohol. After three.

 

fourths of the liquid are distilled over, remove
the flame; fill up the alcohol to the volume ori-
ginally taken, and note the specific gravity, from
which may be calculated the percentage of spirit;
the residue in the retort is tested for taste and
odor, whereby the nature of the coloring material
and the adulteration with pepper or other sharp-
tasting spice is detected. The alcohol is tested
for fusel oil. The percentage of alcohol in whis-
kies and gins is .from 45 to 50, that of brandy,
from 50 to 65. The residue from brandy w111
always contain some tannic acid, derived from
the oaken casks in which it is exported. This is
easily detected by a salt of iron giving the green-
ish blue color of ink. This same plan is followed
in the analysis of wines, where the residue alone
will be a criterion of the quality of the wine. All
wines contain tartaric acid in some shape, which,
however, is generally supplied in manufactured
wine, so that its presence cannot be taken as a
proof of the genuineness of the wine. We can give
you at present no sure test for establishing the
difference between natural color and artificial
coloring, though many have been published
from time to time. This is a question which
must be decided by the experience of the
analyst.

A LCOH OL—Proof spirit, which is the stand-
ard by which all mixtures of alcohol and water
are judged, contains 50 per cent. by volume and
42—52 per cent. by weight of alcohol. The
specific gravity of proof spirit is 0.933; and,
when a spirit is “above proof,” it denotes that
it contains an excess of alcohol. Thus if 100 vol-
umes of a spirit require 20 volumes of water to
reduce it to “proof standard,” it is said to be 20
over proof, while the term “under proof” has
reference to a less strong spirit than the stand-
ard. Thus, if 100 volumes of a spirit require 20
volumes of spirit of a s ecific gravity of 0.825 to
raise it to the “proo ’ standard, the samplers
said to be “20 under proof.” The strength is
ascertained by the hydrometer. ,

WINES, LIQUORS AND VINEGAR.

l

Alcohol, when thoroughly rectified and cleans-

ed, is called pure neutral spirit, and is the basis
of all the domestic manufactured imitations of
foreign brandies, gins, cordials, etc. The .high
wine, or neutral spirit, distilled and rectified,
and sold as French pure 5 irit, is free from all
deleterious substances, an when sweetened,
colored, and properly flavored; will compete fa.
,vorably with imported brandy or gin._ Good
'strong whisky may be used as a substitute for
,the above proof spirit, but it is inferior to the
other. The whisky should be of proper strength,
and treated as follows; this process destroys the
fusel oil, and precipitates the verdigris to the
bottom:—

To 40 gals. whisky, add 1% lbs. unslaked
lime; % lb. powdered alum; and % pt. spirits
of nitre; stir well, and let stand twenty-four
hours. Then draw off into another cask, avoid-
ing the sediment. It is then fit for use. All oils
used must be cut in 90 per cent. alcohol, using
1 qt. alcohol to 2 oz. oil, and should stand twenty-
four hours before using.

ALE, T a Brew—The various operations of
brewing are nearly the same for every species of
malt liquor, the differences in the products aris-
ing from the materials employed, the heat of the
water used for mashing, and the temperature at
which the fermentation is conducted. (See Brew-
ing.) For ale, pale or lightly dried malt should
be chosen, as wellas pale hops, if it be desired
to brew a liquor possessing but little color; and
the fermentation should be carried on at a low
temperature. Almost every county in England
has its variety of ale, but the difference consists
chiefly (the same quantity of malt and hops being
used) in the preparation of the malt. The water
may in some cases vary in quality, the boiling
may be longer or shorter, or the liquor may be
turned on at a different heat; but these circum—
stances being considered, one general process
serves for the whole, as before observed. For
immediate use, the malt may be all pale; but if
brewed for keeping, or in warm weather, one-
fourth should be amber malt. 6 lbs. of Kent
hops should be used to the quarter, or 8 to 10 lbs.
for keeping ale.

ALE, Burton. —This is a strong species of
ale, of which only a barrel and a half is drawn
from a quarter of malt. Temperature for the first
mash 170°, and for the second 180°, followed by
a mash for table beer at 165°. It is tunned at
58°, and cleansed at 72°. The finest pale malt,
ground two days before using, together with the
best Kent hops, (6 to8lbs. per quarter,) are em-
ployed for this ale.

ALE for Privale Families. -—A bushel and
three quarters of ground malt and a pound of
hops are sufficient to make 18 gallons of good
family ale. That the saccharine matter of the
malt may be extracted by infusion, without the
farina, the temperature of the water should not
exceed 165" or 170° F ahrenheit’s thermometer.
The quantity of water should be divided into two
portions, one of which should be poured upon
the malt as speedily as possible, and the whole
being well mixed together by active stirring, the
vessel should be closely covered over for an hour;
if the weather be cold, for an hour and a half.
If hard water be employed, it should be boiled,
and the temperature allowed, by exposure to the
atmosphere, to fall to about 165° F ahr.; but if
rain water is used, it may be added to the malt

 

353

as soon as it reaches the point. After standing
the roper time, the wort must be drawn off into
anot er vessel, and the second portion of the wa-
ter poured on, which should be allowed to mash
an hour. The first wort may then be boiled with
% lb. of hops for one hour, by which time the
second mashing will be ready to be drawn OE,
and should be boiled for half an hour, with %
lb. of fresh hops. The two liquors should now
be mixed and cooled down to the temperature of
60° or 65°, when a pint of good thick yeast
should be well stirred in, and as soon as the fer-
mentation is completed, the liquor may be drawn
off into a clean cask previously rinsed with boil-
ing water. When the slow fermentation which
will ensue has ceased, the cask should be loosely
bunged for two days, after which, if the liquor
be left quiet, the bung may be properly fastened.
Pale malt is the best, because, when highly dried,
it does not afford so much saccharine matter. If
the malt be new, it should be exposed to the air,
in a dry room, for two days previously to its
being used. A third mashing may be made for
table beer.

A LE, Home Brewed. —- For this purpose a
quarter of malt, (8 bus.) is obtained at the malt
house—or, if wished to be extra strong, nine
bushels of malt-—are taken, with hops, 12 lbs.;
yeast, 5 qts.

The malt, being crushed or ground, is mixed
with 72 gals. of water at the temperature of 160°,
and covered up for 3 hours, when 40 gallons are
drawn off, into which the hops are put, and left
to infuse. Sixty gallons of water at a tempera-
ture of 170° are then added to the malt in the
mash-tub, and well mixed, and after standing 2
hours, sixty gallons are drawn off. The wort
from these two mashes is boiled with the ho s
for 2 hours, and after being cooled down to 65 ,
is strained through a flannel bag into a ferment-
ing tub, where it is mixed with the yeast and left
to work for 24 or 30 hours. It is then run into
barrels to cleanse, a few gallons being reserved
for filling up the casks as the yeast works over.

ARRA CK PUNCH SYRUP. -—-53% lbs.
sugar; 3% gals. water. Boil up well; then add
1% gals. lemon juice to the boiling sugar, and stir
till the liquid is clear; pour it in aclean tub, and,
when nearly cool, add 5 gals. Batavia arrack ;
then filter.

AREA CA’, BA TA VIA .—-To 12 gallons pale
rum, add 2 ounces flowers of benzoin ; % ounce
balsam of Tolu; 1 ounce sliced pine apple. Di-
gest with occasional agitation for a month; then
add % pint raw milk agitated well for fifteen
minutes, and rack in a week; a fine imitation.

BARRELS, To Sweeten wile): Feud—1. Set
fire to 1 lb. or more of broken charcoal, put it
into the cask, and immediately fill up the cask
with boiling water. After this roll the cask once
or twice a day for a week; then pour out the
charcoal and water, wash out the cask with clean
cold water, and expose it to the external air for
some days. — 2. A pint of the permanganate
turned into the most musty, filthy cider or beer
cask and rinsed about a few moments will en-
tirely decompose all fungoid growths and ferment-
ing matter, and render the cask as sweet as those
that are new. The deodorizing, disinfecting
power of the permanganate, holding, as it does,
five equivalents of oxygen, is wonderful; it will
even eodorize carbolic acid. -

BEAD for Lz'gum. —The best bead is the

'364

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

orangeflower water bead, (oil of neroli), I drop
to each gallon of brandy. Another met/20d. ——
To every 40 drops of sulphuric acid, add 60 drops
purest sweet oil in a glass vessel; use immedi-
ately. This quantity is generally sufiicient for
10 gallons spirit. A not/tar. -— Take I ounce of
the purest oil sweet almonds; I ounce of sul-
phuric acid; put them in a stone mortar; add, by
degrees, 2 ounces white lump sugar, rubbing it
well with the pestle till it becomes a paste; then
add small quantities of spirits of wine till it comes
into a liquid. This quantity is sufficient for 100
gallons. The first is strongly recommended as
the best.

BEER, To give flze Appearance onge to.—
Add a few handfuls of pickled cucumbers and
Seville oranges, both chopped up. This is said
to make malt liquor appear six months older
than it really is.

BEER BOUQUET. —- According to Dr.
Boettger, this liquor consists of a solution of the
essential oil of lemons in light petroleum oil, and
a coarse fusel oil, containing spirit colored by
turmeric.

BEER, CHEAP.—I.Water 15 gals.; boil half
the water with % lb. hops; then add to the other
half in the tun, and well mix with I gal. molas-
ses and a little yeast—2. Fill a boiler with the
green shells of peas, pour on water till it rises
half an inch above the shells, and simmer for
three hours. Strain off the liquor, and add a
strong decoction of the wood sage, or the hop,
so as to render it pleasantly bitter, then ferment
in the usual manner. The wood sage is the best
substitute for hops, and being free from any
anodyne property is entitled to a preference. By
boiling a fresh quantity of shells in the decoction
before it becomes cold, it may be so thoroughly
impregnated with saccharine matter, as to afford
a liquor, when fermented, as strong as ale.

EER C UP.—Put a quarter of an ounce of
cinnamon, two cloves, one allspice, a little grat-
ed nutmeg, and one gill of sherry into a jug; let
it stand for two hours, then add two pints of best
,Burton ale and four bottles of good ginger beer;
ice with blocks of clear ice.

BEER, To Enliven and Restore when Dead.—
Boil some water and sugar, or water and treacle,
together, and when cold add some new yeast;
this will restore dead beer, or ripen bottled beer
in 24 hours; and it will also make worts work in
the tun if they are sluggish.

Or, a small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda
may be mixed with a quart of it as it is drawn
for drinking.

Or, boil for every gallon of the liquor 3 oz. of
sugar in water; when cold add a little yeast, and
put the fermenting mixture into the flat beer,
whether it be a full cask or the bottom of the
cask.

Or, beer may often be restored which has be-
come flat or stale, by rolling and shaking the
cask for a considerable time, which will create
such a new fermentation as to render it neces-
sary to open a vent-peg to prevent the cask from
bursting.

BEER, Fining and Presewing. —- Take a
handful of the hops boiled in the first wort, and
dried; % lb. of loaf sugar dissolved in the beer;
I 1b. of chalk; and % lb. of calcined oyster
shells. Put the whole in at the bung hole, stir-
ring them well and then rebunging. This pre-
paration will also suit for racked beer; in put-

 

ting in the hops it may be advisable to place
them in a net with a small stohe in the bottom
so as to sink them, otherwise they will swim at
the top.

BEER, To Improve the Flavor (yi—Bruise
ginger, I 02.; bruise cloves, % 02.; afew scalded
hops and a doz. broken coarse biscuits to every
two barrels. Rummage well.

BEER, GINGER—I. Ten pounds of sugar;
gounces of lemon juice; % apound of honey; 11
ounces of bruised ginger root: 9 gallons of wa-
ter; 3 pints of yeast. Boil the ginger half an
hour in a gallon of water; then add the rest of
the water and the other ingredients, and strain it
when cold. Add the white of an egg, beaten,
and % an ounce of essence of lemon. Let it
stand 4 days, then bottle, and it will keep many
months. ~

2. Three gallons of cold spring water, one
quart of molasses, one tablespoon of cream of
tartar, three tablespoons of ginger, one quart of
yeast; mix together in a tub, and stand for five
hours. It may then be bottled, and will be fit
for use in one day.

3. White sugar 5 lbs.; lemon juice I gill;
honey % 1b.; ginger, bruised, 5 oz. ; water 4%
gals. Boil the ginger thirty minutes in three
qts. of the water; then add the other ingredients,
and strain; when cold, put in the white of an
egg, well beaten, with one teaspoon of lemon
essence—let stand four days, and bottle. It will
keep for months—much longer than if yeast was
used; the honey, however, operates mildly in
place of yeast.

4. Put two gallons of cold water in a pot upon
the fire; add to it two ounces of good ginger
bruised, and two pounds of white or brown sug.
ar. Let this come to a boil, and continue boil.
ing for about half an hour. Then skim the liquor
and pour into a jar or tub, along with one sliced
lemon and half an ounce of cream of tartar.
When nearly cold put in a teaspoonful of yeast,
to cause the whole to work. The beer is now
made; and after it has worked for two days,
strain it and bottle it for use. Tie down the
corks firmly.

5. To two pounds of white sugar, two ounces
of best Jamaica ginger, well bruised, two ounces
of cream of tartar, and the rind of two lemons,
add two gallons of boiling water; stir all to.
gether till they become lukewarm, toast a slice
of bread, pour on it two tablespoonfuls of good
fresh yeast, and place it to float on the top of the
mixture; cover the whole up for twenty-four
hours, then strain and bottle it, taking care not
to fill the bottles; cork and wire it securely.
This quantity will make three dozen bottles, and
will be ready for use in three or four days.

BEER POWDERS, GINGER—I. Take 2
drs, of fine loaf sugar, 8 grs. of ginger, 26 grs. of
carbonate of potassa, all in fine powder; mix them
intimately in a Wedgwood’s ware mortar. Take
also 27 grs. of citric or tartaric acid (the first 15 the
pleasantest, but the last is the cheapest), The
acid is to be kept separate from t e mixture.
The beer is. prepared from the powders thus:
Take two tumbler-glasses, each alt filled With
water; stir up the compound powder in one of
them, and the acid powder in another, then mix
the two liquors; an effervescence takes place,
the beer is prepared, and may be drunk off.
The effervescence is occasioned by the dis—
charge of the carbonic acid at the carbonate of

WINES, LIQUORS AND VINEGAR.

365

 

potassa. If the beer is allowed to stand for a few
minutes it becomes flat; this is owing to its hav-
ing lost all its carbonic acid. The cost of these
powders is 20 cts. a dozen sets.-—-2. (I/ViI/z Soda
vadtrr.) Put into blue pa ers, 30 grains to
each paper, of bicarbonate o soda, 5 grains of
powdered ginger, and I drachm of white pow-
dered sugar. Put into white papers, 25 grains,
to each, of powdered tartaric acid. Put I paper
,of a kind to % a pint of water. The common
,soda powders of the shops are like the above,
‘with the sugar and ginger omitted.

BEE/f, HOB—Turn 5 quarts of water on 6
ounces of hops ; boil three hours; strain off the
liquor; turn on 4 quarts more of water, and 12
spoonfuls of ginger, and boil the hops 3 hours
longer ; strain and mix it with the other liquor,
and stir in 2 quarts of molasses. Brown, very
dry, half a pound of bread, and put in—-—rusked
bread is best. Pound it fine, and brown it in a
pot, like coffee. After cooling to be about luke-
warm, add 2. int of new yeast that is free from
salt. Keep t e beer covered, in a temperate
situation, till fermentation has ceased, which is
known by the settling of the froth; then turn it
into a keg or bottles, and keep it in a cool place.

BEER, LEMOAC—To a gallon of water add
a sliced lemon, a spoonful of ginger, % a pint
of yeast, and sugar enough to make it quite
sweet.

BEER, MAPLE.-—To4 gallons of boiling
water add I quart of maple syrup, and half an
ounce of essence of spruce; add one pint of yeast
and proceed as with ginger pop.

BEER, 1t!0LASSES.——Hops I oz.; water
1 gal.; boil for 10 minutes, strain, add molasses
I b., and when lukewarm, yeast, I spoonful.
Ferment.

BEER, T 0 Restore when Murty.—Run it
through some hops that have been boiled in
strong wort, and afterwards work it with double
the quantity of new malt liquor ; or if the fault
is in the cask, draw it off into a sweet cask, and
having boiled % lb. of brown sugar in I quart
of water, add I or 2 spoonfuls of yeast before it
is quite cold, and when the mixture ferments,
pour it into the cask.

BEER, PH[_LADELPHIA.—-—Water 30 gal-
lons; brown sugar 20 lbs. ; ginger, bruised, 1%
1b.; cream of tartar % 1b.; supercarbonate of
soda 3 oz. ; oil of lemon, cut in a little alcohol,
I teaspoon; whites of Io eggs, well beaten; hops
2 02.; yeast I quart.

The ginger root and hops should be boiled 20
or 30 minutes in enough of the water to make
all milk warm, then strained into the rest, and
the yeast added and allowed to work over night;
skimmed and bottled.

BEE/6, 160071—1. Take 3 gals. of molas-
ses; add 10 gals. of water at 60° Fah. Let
this stand 2 hours, then pour into a barrel, and
add powdered or bruised sassafras and winter-
green bark, each % 1b., bruised sarsaparilla
root % 1b., yeast one pint, water enough to fill
the barrel, say 25 gals. Ferment for 12 hours
and bottle.

2. For 10 gals. beer, take 3 lbs. common bur-
dock root, or I ounce essence of sassafras; %
1b. good hops; 1 pint corn, roasted brown. Boil
the whole in 6 gals. pure water until the strength
of the materials is obtained; strain while hot into
a keg, adding enough cold water to make to

gals. When nearly cold, add clean molasses or

 

syrup until palatable,—not sickishly sweet. , Add
also as muc fresh yeast as will raise a batch of
8 loaves of bread. Place the keg in a cellar or
other cool place, and in 48 hours you will have a
keg of first-rate sparkling root beer.

3. For each gallon of water to be used, take
hops, burdock, yellow dock, sarsaparilla, dande-
lion, and spikenard roots, bruised, of each %
ounce; boil about 20 minutes, and strain while
hot, add 8 or 10 drops of oils of spruce and sas-
safras, mixed in equal proportions, when cool
enough not to scald your hand, ut in 2 or 3
tablespoons of yeast; molasses, 3); of a pint, or
white sugar% 1b., gives it about the right sweet-
ness.

4. American sarsaparilla, 2 pounds; spice
wood, % pound; guaiac chips, I pound; birch
bark, % pound; ginger, % ounce; sassafras,
4 ounces; prickly ash bark, % ounce; white mus-
tard, I ounce; hops, I ounce. Boil for twelve
hours at a moderate heat, with sufficient water,
so that the remainder shall measure five gallons,
to which add of tincture of ginger, 8 ounces; oil
of Wintergreen, I ounce; alcohol, I quart; or
sufficient to prevent fermentation.

To make Root Beer, take of the above decoc-
tion, I quart; molasses, Sounces; water 2% gal-
lons; yeast, 4 ounces.

The Root Beer, in warm weather, should be
mixed the evening before it is used. It can be
kept for use either bottled or drawn by a com-
mon beer pump. Most people prefer a small ad-
dition of wild cherry bitters or hot drops to the
above beer. '

BEER, To C ure 'w/zm Rapy.—Put a handful
or two of flour, and the same quantity of hops,
with a little powdered alum, into the beer, and
rummage it well. .

BEER, SASSAFRAS.—Have ready 2 gals.
of soft water; one quart of wheat bran; a large
handful of dried apples ; half a pint of molasses;
a small handful of hops; half a pint of strong
fresh yeast, and a piece of sassafras root the size
of an egg. Put all the ingredients (save molasé

ses and yeast) at once in a large kettle. Boil
until the apples are quite soft. Pour the molas-
ses in a small, clean tub or a large pan. Set a

hair sieve over the vessel and strain the mixture
through it. Let it stand until it becomes only‘
milk warm, when stir in the yeast, put the liquor
immediately into the keg or jugs, and let it
stand, uncorked, to ferment. Fill the jugs quite
full, that the li uor in fermentation may run
over. Set them in alarge tub. When the fer-
mentation has subsided, cork, and use next day.
2 large tablespoons of ginger, stirred into the
molasses, will be found to be an improvement.
If the yeast is stirred in while the liquor is too
warm, it will be apt to turn sour. If the liquor
is not at once put into jugs, it will not ferment
well. Keep in a cool place. This beer is only
for present use, as it will not keep more than 2
days in very warm weather.

BEER, SOLID.——-By a very simple process,
introduced by Mr. Mertens, the wort, after being
made in the mash-tub of malt and hops, in the
usual manner, is sucked up by a pipe into a large
vacuum (exhausted by an air-pump), and then
persistently worked round and round, while the
moisture is evaporated. The wort emerges from
its tribulations with a pasty consistence, and is
allowed to fall from a considerable height into
air-tight boxes, in which it reposes like hard-

366

D! C T! ONA R Y OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

bake. It soon gets so exceedingly tough that it
has to be broken up with a chisel and mallet,
and in that condition ls easily sent abroad, or to
any part of the world, for people to brew their
own malt liquor.

BEER, To Restore when Some—Good hops
’14 1b., powdered chalk 2 lbs.; put in the hole of
the cask, and bung close for a few days; for
frosted beer, add some finings, a few handfuls of
flour, and some scalded ho s; for ropy beer, use
a handful or two of flour, the same of hops, with
a little powdered alum to each barrel.
mage well.

BEER, SPR U CE.——I. Boil a handful of hops,
and 2 of the chips of sassafras root, in 10 gallons
of water ; strain it, and turn on, while hot, a gal-
lon of molasses, 2 s oonfuls of the essence of
s ruce, 2 spoonfuls o ginger, and I of pounded
a lspice. Put it into a cask; and when cold
enough, add half a pint of good yeast; stir it well;
stop it close ; when clear, bottle and cork it.

2. For 3 gals. water put in 1 qt. and % pt. of
molasses, 3 eggs well beaten, yeast I gill. Into
2 qts. of the water boiling hot put 50 drops of
any oil you wish the flavor of ; or mix I oz. each,
oils sassafras, spruce and Wintergreen, then use
50 drops of the mixed oils.

3. Boil 8 gals. of water, and when in a state
of complete ebullition pour it into a beer barrel
which contains 8 gals. more of cold water; then
ade6 lbs. of molasses, with a few tablespoon-
fuls of the essence of s ruce, stirring the whole
well together; add hal a pint of yeast, and keep
it in a temperate situation, with the bung-hole
open for two days till the fermentation be abated,
when the bung may be put in and the beer bot-
tled off. It is fit to drink in a day or two. If
you can get no essence of spruce make a strong
decoction of the small twigs and leaves of the
spruce firs.

4. Take of the essence of spruce half a pint;
bruised pimento and ginger, of each four ounces;
water, three gallons. Boil five or ten minutes,
then strain and add 11 gallons of warm water, a
pint of yeast, and six pints of molasses. Allow
the mixture to ferment for 24 hours.

5. Take of oil of spruce, sassafras, and winter-
green, each 40 drops; pour I gal. of boiling wa-
ter on the oils, then add 4 gals. of cold water, 3

ints of molasses, I pint of yeast. Let it stand

or 2 hours and bottle.

BEER P0 WDERS, SPRUCE. — White
sugar, I drachm; bicarbonate of soda, I scruple;
essence of spruce, 8 grains; essence of lemon, 1
grain. Mix and wrap it in blue paper. Then
add tartaric acid, % drachm, and wrap it in white
paper. For use: dissolve each paper in separate
glasses, one third full of water, pour one into
the other, and drink immediately.

BEER, Improved S T RONG.—Malt, I peck;
coarse brown sugar, 6 pounds; hops, 4 ounces;
good yeast, I teacup; if you have not malt, take
a. little over I peck of barley, (twice the amount
of oats will do, but are not as good,) and ut it
into an oven after the bread is drawn, or into a
stove oven, and steam the moisture from them.
Grind coarsely. N ow pour upon the ground
malt 3% gallons of water at I70 or 172° of heat.
The tub in which you scald the malt should have
a false bottom, 2 or 3 inches from the real bot.
tom; the false bottom should be bored full of
gimlet holes, so as to act as a strainer, to keep
back the malt meal. When the water is poured

Rum-

 

on, stir them well, and let it stand 3 hours, and
draw off by a faucet; put in 7 gallons more of
water at 180 to 182°; stir it well, and let it stand
2 hours and draw it off. Then put on a gallon
or two of cold water, stir it well and draw it off;
you should have about 5 or 6 gallons. Put the
6 pounds of coarse brown sugar in an equal
amount of water; mix with the wort, and boil
1% to 2 hours with the hops; you should have
eight gallons when boiled; when cooled to 80°
put in the yeast, and let it work 18 to 20 hours,
covered with a sack; use sound iron hooped kegs
or porter bottles, bung or cork tight, and in two
weeks it will be good sound beer, and will keep
along time; and for persons of a weak habit of
body, and especially females, I glass of this with
their meals is far better than tea or coffee, or all
the ardent spirits in the universe. If more mall:
is used; not exceeding % a bushel, the beer, of
course, would have more spirit, but this strength
is sufficient for the use of families or invalids.

BEER, TOMA T 0. —— Gather the fruit once
a week, stem, wash and mash it; strain through
a coarse linen bag, and to every gallon of the
Juice add a pound of good, moist brown sugar.
Let it stand nine days, and then pour it off from
the pulp, which will settle in the bottom of the
jar. Bottle it closely, and the longer you keep
it the better it is when you want to use it. Take
a pitcher that will hold as much as you want to
use—for my family I use a gallon pitcher—fill it
nearly full of fresh sweetened water, add some
of the preparation already described, and a few
drops of essence of lemon, and you will find it
equal to the best lemonade, costing almost noth-
ing. To every gallon of sweetened water I add
a half tumbler of beer.

BITTERS, S T 0.41.4 Cli—European Gentian
root, 1% ounce; orange peel, 2% ounces; cin-
namon, % ounce; anise seed, % ounce; corian-
der seed, % ounce; cardamom seed, yg ounce;
unground Peruvian bark, % ounce; gum kino,
‘4 ounce; bruise all these articles, and put them
into the best alcohol, I pint; let it stand a week
and pour off the clear tincture; then boil the
dregs a few minutes in I quart of water, strain,
and press out all the strength; now dissolve loaf
sugar, I pound, in the hot liquid, adding3 quarts
cold water, and mix with spirit tincture first
poured off, or on can add these, and let it stand
on the dregs i preferred.

B1 T T ERS, BRAND Y. — Bruised gentian,
Spunces; orange peel, 5 ounces; cardamoms, 3
ounces; cassia, I ounce; cochineal, % ounce;
spirit, I gallon. Digest for one week, then de-
cant the clear, and pour on the dregs, water, 5
pints. Digest for one week longer, decant, and
mix the two tinctures together.

BOTTLES, To Src'eeten when film-(y. —
Sweeten with sulphuric acid and water mixed in
the proportion of a quart of water to half a pint
of acid. ‘

BOTTLES, W'ax fan—Take one ound of
resin, one pound of beeswax, and hal a pound
of tallow. Mix these with red or yellow ochre,
soot, or Spanish whiting, according to the.c0_lor

ou require. Melt the whole carefully, stirring
1t all the time. If it be like] ' to boil over, Stfl'
it with a candle end, which wil allay the violence
of the ebullition. (See also Page 40.) .

BOTTLES, Sealing Campomzdfon—Gelattn
mixed with g1 cerine yields a compound liquid
when hot, but gecoming solid by cooling, at the

WINES, LIQUORS AND VINEGAR.

357

 

same time retaining much of the elasticity. Bot-
tles may be hermetically sealed by dipping their
necks into the liquid mixture, and repeating the
operation until the cap attains any thickness re-
uired.
q BOTTLLVG MALT LIQUORS.—:There
can be no doubt that all fermented malt liquors,
as well as wine, are improved by bottling,_when
the work is performed with sufficient skill and
care; but there are several considerations requi-
site to success which we shall now bring under
the notice of our readers. _
The state of the liquor at the time of bottling.
The fermentation of the liquor should be nearly
completed; if not, there will be the risk of burst-
ing the bottles in consequence of the generation
of too large a quantity of gas. On the other
hand, if the fermentation be over and the liquor
be flat, the beer will become more or less sour.
The mode of judging as to the fitness of the
liquor for bottling is to ascertain its condition in
the cask. If, on drawing the vent-peg, the liquor
spurts out with violence, it is certain that the
process of fermentation is still going on ; on the
other hand, if it appears to be still, and_on being
tasted is in good condition and brisk, it may be
held to be in a fit state for bottling. If, how-
ever, it be too brisk and frothy while bottling,
the bottles .ought to be left uncorked for a few
hours, and filled out. They should only be filled
up as the froth works within an inch of the

cork.

BO T T LIN G, Carésfiii'u—There is no economy
in bad corks. If they are not sufficiently sound,
and allow the air to escape, the liquor becomes
flat, and consequently sour, and the bottles
might nearly as well be left open. The corks
should be soaked in the liquor before being 1put
into the bottles, and if the bottles be then aid
on their sides, the corks will swell so as to be
perfectly tight. It need hardly be added that

eat care should be taken that the bottles
gave been thoroughly washed and are perfectly
clean.

BRAND Y.——-To 4o gals. of pure or neutral
spirits, add I lb. crude tartar, dissolved in I gal.
hot water; acetic ether, % pint; bruised raisins,
6 lbs.; tinct. kino, 2 ounces; sugar, 3 lbs.; color
with Sugar coloring. Stand I4 days, and draw

oti.

BRANDY, BRITISH—I. Clean spirit, IOO
gals; nitric ether, 2 lbs.; cassia buds (ground),
% 1b.; bitter almond meal, % 1b.; orris root
(sliced), 6 ounces; powdered cloves, I ounce ;‘
ca sicum, I oz.; good vinegar, 2 gals.; brandy
co oring, I quart. Mix well in an empty cognac
cask, and let them macerate for a fortnight, oc-
casionally stirring. The proportion of the in-
gredients may be varied by the skillful brewer,
as much depends on their respective strengths.

2. Clean spirit, loo gals; stron vinegar, 3
gals.; bitter almonds (ground), 14, 1b.; cassia
buds (ground), % 1b.; orris root (ground), 7
ounces; Guinea pepper (ground), 6 02.; pow-
dered cloves, I ounce; tincture of catechu, 4
pints; nitric ether, 2 pints; brandy coloring, I

uart. Put them on the lees into a fresh emp-
tied co ac cask, and macerate as before. In-
stead o tincture of catechu you may use half a
pound of the powder mixed with hot water to a

ste.

3. Good plain malt Spirit (17 up), too gals. ;
finely powdered catechu, 12 ounces; tincture of

 

vanilla, 2 ounces; burnt sugar coloring, I quart
or more. Mix well.

BRANDY, BLACKBERRY. ~Essence of
blackberry, I 1b.; blackberry juice, I gal. ; syrup
of gum arabic, I gal. ; pure spirits, 4 barrels.

BRAZVDY, CHERRY. — I. To every 10
gals. of brandy made by the receipt for French
brandy, add quarts of wild black cherries,
stones and al bruised; crushed sugar, 2 lbs.;
let it stand for one week, then draw or rack it
off as it is wanted for use.

2. Good whisky, io gals. ; wild black ber-
ries, 5 quarts well bruised with stones broken;
common almonds, shelled, I 1b.; white sugar,
cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, well bruised, of
each '2 oz. Mix, and let them stand 12 days,
and raw off. This, with the addition of 2 gals.
brandy, makes most superior cherry brandy.

BRAND Y, COGNA C .——To every Io gals. of’
pure spirits add 2 quarts New England rum, or
I quart lamaica rum, and from 30 to 40 drops
of oil cognac cut in half a pint of alcohol, and
color with burnt sugar to suit.

BRANDY, T o Detolorize.—\Vlien stained by
the cask, a nail, or dropping a bit therein, when
boring for a faucet, or any other cause, add about
one quart of new milk to ten gallons; let it settle
or filter.

BRANDY, FRENCH—Pure spirits, 1 gal.;
best French brandy, or any kind you wish to
imitate, I quart; loaf sugar, 2 ounces ; sweet
spirits of nitre, % ounce; a few drops of tinct.
of catechu, or oak bark, to roughen the taste if
desired, and color to suit.

BRA/VDY, PALE—Is made the same as
by the above receipt, using pale instead of the
French, and using only I oz. tinct. of kino for
every 5 gals.

BRE WERIES.—The size of a brewery is
stated in the number of quarters of malt that can
be used in one brewing; thus, a brewery having
a mash tun in which twenty combs of malt can
be mashed at a brewing, would be a “ten quarter
brewery”, and so on, the rest of the plant being
made in proportion.

Until steam came into general use as a motive
power, all the labor was done by hand or horse
power; sometimes a water wheel was used; but
it is believed that on no occasion has wind power
been applied. Of late years, steam has not only
been used in breweries as a motive power, but
also as a means of transmitting heat; so that the
brewer having a boiler to supply steam to the
engines, uses it also to supply steam for boiling
both liquor and wort, either by forming the boil-
ing coppers with an outer an or jacket of iron,
and passing steam throu ii the space between
that and the inner pan of t e copper, or by pass-
in g the steam through coils of copper pi e fixed
at the bottoms of vessels made of wood, iron, or
co per, whichever of these be preferred.

11 building a brewery every advantage should
be taken of any favorable natural features of the
locality, such as a hill side, where the buildin
may be arranged so that the utensils can be placed
in a position one above another in level, taking
advantage of the natural slope to save labor,
which might otherwise have to be expended in
pumping the worts or beer about. A good sup-

ly of suitable water, or “liquor”, as it is called
in breweries, is also indispensable. That there
is this should always be ascertained before either
building a. new brewery or extending an old one.

368

DICTIONARY OF E VER Y—DA Y IVAN TS.

 

The mash tun should be made either of good
ellow deals or of oak, and should have a false
ottom, generally of iron, made of several plates,

so as easily to be removed for cleansing the tun.
These plates are very closely perforated with
holes about one twelfth of an inch in diameter;
sometimes, however, with slots that width, but
about two inches to three inches long, cast in
them. These slots and also the small holes are
about three eighths of an inch on the bottom side
of the plate, being made so much taper to pre-
vent their blocking. The plates with slots are
more expensive than the others, but some brew-
ers prefer them. The mash tun should contain
from eighteen to nineteen cubic feet for every
quarter of malt. Formerly, when the crushed
malt had been placed in the tun, the nearly boil-
ing hot liquor was run in, and the whole was
thoroughly mixed together by men with poles,
each having several cross pieces, about the size
of the staves of a ladder, in one end. This opera-
tion is termed mashing, and these cars are still
used by some brewers, more especially where a
“Steele’s” or a similar machine is used.

A better and more certain method of mashing
was required; for it was found that in some parts
of the mash tun a sort of cake or dumpling would
be formed, the outside of which, consisting of a

asty mass of flour, prevented the liquor reach-
ing the inside, to extract the valuable ingredient
of the malt. The machine which for many years
has been fitted to mash tuns, to perform this
operation, is made as follows: A circular crank,
with radial teeth, is bolted to the sides of the
mash tun; a vertical shaft is erected in bearings
in the center of the tun. This shaft is either
carried some few feet above the top of the tun,
or else passes through a stuffing box in the bot-
tom, and is worked by bevel wheels from a. hori-
zontal shaft. The vertical shaft supports loosely
a bearing which carries one end of a second hori-
zontal shaft, which is inside the tun, at about
half its depth. The other end of this shaft has
a pinion keyed upon it. This pinion gears with
it, and is supported by the circular rack before
mentioned. A revolving motion is given to this
horizontal shaft by bevel wheels from the vertical
one, and u on it is hung a sort of rake, which,
as the shat revolves, thoroughly mixes up the
mash. Sometimes there are two, and even three
of these rake shafts. It will be obvious that, as
these shafts revolve, the pinion gearing into the
fixed rack causes the whole to revolve somewhat
slowly round the tun.

In large breweries, where there are sometimes
a dozen or more mash tuns, rather than have a
large engine, it is better to have a small one to
pump all the liquor, and another to grind the
malt; and these may be kept at work all day,
preparing for the morrow. Indeed, a vast
amount of money in first cost, and in labor after-
wards, may be saved by properly planning and
arranging everything beforehand.

BIt‘E WING. -— The process of brewing has
been fully described in many excellent treatises,
from which the intelligent reader can obtain all
the knowledge he requires; but we think it will
be of servrce to furnish a condensed view, of
what is essential to brewing successfully, on the
scale suitable for a single household, and Care-
fully avoiding all such details as are not abso-
lutely requisite.

T11: Boiler.'—The material of which this is

 

made requires attention. An iron boiler will be
found suitable, but it is much less desirable than
one of copper. A copper boiler, although at first
more expensive, is to be preferred, as it can be
kept cleaner, is more readily heated, will last for
a greater length of time, and as old metal will be
worth about half its original cost. A boiler which
can contain about forty-five gallons,will be found
most convenient for domestic use. It is large
enough to produce half a hogshead of strong ale,
and the same quantity of table beer, which for
many families will be found a sufficient quantity.
A pipe of about an inch and three quarters in
diameter should project from the bottom of the
boiler, and beyond the brickwork with which it
is built up, and this pipe ought to be situated so
as completely to drain off all the liquor from the
boiler; but this it cannot do unless the internal
orifice of the pipe be on a level with the lowest
part of the boiler. Into this pipe a tap is to be
fixed without any bend or curve in it, so as the
more readily to allow the hops to pass through.
During the process of brewing a piece of canvas
may be rolled round the end of the tap so as to
hang down into the sieve through which the con-
tents of the boiler are to be strained.

T lze [flask-Tub. -——-A sherry-cask, with one
fourth of its length cut off, will make an excellent
and cheap mash-tub, capable of containing about
eighty gallons. At the distance of about a couple
of inches from the bottom of the mash-tub, a
wooden hoop must be fixed to support a false
bottom of wood, perforated with numerous small
holes, close to each other. Both the false bot-
tom, and the hoop on which it rests, must be
movable, and the latter must be attached to the
sides of the tub with small nails. The mash-tub
must be furnished with a straight tap, on a level
with the bottom of the vessel, for the purpose of
drawing off the worts. The mash-tub must be
placed on the stand or gawntree, at a height suf.
ficient to allow the underback to be placed with
facility below the tap in the mash-tub.

T lze Dan—This is a mashing-stick, consisting
of an ash pole about two yards in length, having,
at its extremity a frame about twelve incheslong,
and narrower at the lower than at the upper end.
Across this frame there are several spars, by
which it is rendered a convenient implement for
thoroughly mixing the malt, and bringing it all
in contact with the water. The person whose
business it is to use the mashingrstick, and to
stir the worts in the boiler, must be enabled to
stand sufficiently high to perform the operation
efficiently, and for this purpose he ought to be
furnished with a set of steps of a suitable
height.

Gauge Slide are of importance to enable the
brewer accurately to ascertain the quantity of
worts in the boiler; to measure the number_0f
gallons of water in the mash-tub, or the quantity
of liquor in the fermenting tuns or other vessels.
These useful implements may be easrly made lay
putting into the different vessels they are inten -
ed for, a certain number of gallons .of water, and
marking the stick at the various pomts at which
the water rises when any specified number of

gallons are successive] introduced.
The Underbark an Coolers. — The mash-tub
may be made by using the fourth art of the
' l suit well

sherry cask already spoken of. .It W]
as an underback, and along With three or four
large tubs to serve as coolers. W111 be sufficient

WINES, LIQUORS AND VINEGAR. .

for the brewing of half ahogshead of ale, and
the same quantity of table beer. *

Fementing T um, etc. — For half a hogshead
of ale, and the same quantity of table beer, two
fermenting tuns will be necessary, each contain-
ing forty-two gallons. Besides these, a wooden
vessel, or “piggin,” holdinor about a gallon, and
having a long upright handle, will be necessary
[or the purpose of lifting the worts from the
underback into the coolers, and a couple of pails
will be requisite, each of them being marked so
as to indicate two gallons and a half.

The Thermometer and Sate/wrometer. —— The
art of brewing requires that the degree of heat,
and the quantity of saccharine or sweet matter in
the liquid be correctly ascertained. For these
pur oses the instruments are requisite. Their
mo e of action: will be explained to those who
purchase them by the manufacturer, and their
uses will be illustrated in the instructions we are
about to give.

T be Brew/muse and Verselr. -- In making the
comparatively small quantity of liquor required
in a single household, it is not only difficult, but
often quite impossible, to have an outhouse set
a art for brewing, and for no other purpose.

et it is a very desirable thingif this can be done.
\Vashing, for example, ought never to be carried
on in a brewhouse; as nothing is more injurious
than to leave the remnant of dirty soapsuds in
the tubs used in brewing. In fact, the greatest
cleanliness is indispensable. All the vessels
should be perfectly sweet, and free from must-
iness or any other smell; they Olght to be strictly
examined the day before the brewing commences,
and should never be used for any other purpose;
and they ought to be carefully cleansed and kept
quite free from dirt.

To Clean Cases—These should be well clean-
sed with boiling water, and if the bung-hole be
large enough, they should be scrubbed inside
with a handhrush, sand, and fuller’s earth, and
afterwards scalded. As to the coolers, and in-
deed all the vessels, care should be taken not to
let the water stand in them any length of time,
as in all water left stagnant a prodigious mul~
titude of animalcules are generated, which, :11-
though too minute to be visible to the naked eye,
are easily discerned by the microscope. Water
in which these creatures are generated emits an
intolerable stench; and if the vessels containing
them are of wood, they retain the smell, and
hardly any amount of scrubbing will eradicate it.

Zinc-Lined Coolerr. —- So important is it that
the coolers should be free from any bad odor,
that we recommend that the interior of the ves-
sels be lined with zinc ; this secures greater

urity, and expedites the cooling of the worts.

he mash-tub should be kept scrupulously clean,
no grains being allowed to remain in it longer
than the day after the brewing. We shall now
make a few remarks on the ingredients used in
brewing, and then give a description of the pro-
cess.

Weave—Different opinions are entertained as
to the relative merits of the water for brewing;
but we may with confidence state that rain water
is certainly superior to any other for the purpose.
It is, however, difficult to obtain this in a condi-
tion of sufficient purity, as the rain water col-
lected from the roofs of houses carries particles
of vegetable substances, imparting to the water
a nauseous flavor. The purest water is that

\

 

359

produced from melted snow, collected in the
open fields after a heavy fall. This water pos-
sesses the highest degree of purity, and is all but
identical with distilled water; it being, in fact,
the result of distillation. If it is desirable that
rain water should be used, let it be obtained in
as pure a condition, and as free from any peculiar
taste and odor as possible. River water is well
suited to the purpose so far as its softness is con-
cerned, but it contains, especially in the warmer
and autumnal months, a large quantity of both
animal and vegetable substances. Hard water,
in consequence of its chemical constitution, has
less power than the two other kinds to extract
the virtues of the malt and the hops; but this in-
convenience may be obviated by raising the heat
of the water. Skillful brewing, no doubt, can do
much towards rendering the liquor made from
hard water as good as any other; but undoubt-
edly pure rain water is the best.

Malt. —-— The best malt has a sweet smell, a
mellow taste, a round body, and a thin skin;
pale malt is adapted for domestic brewing, and
brown malt for public breweries.

Hops. —- The best hops are of a bright green
color, sweet smell, and a feeling of clamminess
when rubbed between the hands.

Brewing—We shall now describe the rocess
of brewing, for, say, half a hogshead 0 strong
ale, the same quantity of middle ale, and a quar-
ter hogshead of table beep. This will require six
bushels of malt, and care must be taken that it
has not been dried at too high a temperature,
nor ground more than three days, and that it is
pale malt, and of the best quality.

Heat Required. — It is of the utmost con.
sequence to obtain such a degree of heat as shall
be best adapted to extract the essential properties
of the malt. Put forty-four gallons of boiling
water, heated t0212 degrees of the thermometer,
into the mash-tub, and add five or six gallons of
cold water, so as to reduce the heat from the
boiling point to 182 degrees. Put the malt into
the mash-tub, and with the oar or mashing-stick
stir it so completely that the water shall have.
access to every part. When this is done, let:
about a half-peck of the malt be strewed on the;
top of the mash in the mash-tub; this will serve:
as a non-conductor, and tend to keep in the heat-
The cover is now to be put on the mash-tub, a
blanket placed on the cover, and sacks on the:
blanket. Every means must be employed to
keep in the heat, to prevent the steam from 85-.
caping. Let it be observed that there are now-
fifty gallons of water in the mash-tub, and six;
bushels of malt, or about eight and a quarter-
gallous of water to each bushel of malt. The»
mash must be left covered from two to-three
hours, after which some of the worts is to be run.
off into a pail and returned again, till at last the;
liquor running from the tap appears perfectly
clear, and then let it run into the underback.
When the worts have run off for some time, and;
the bed of the mash begins to appear, water at
r90 degrees of heat must be added. This must
be done in such a manner that the water shall fall“
in a shower all over the surface of the mash at
the same moment, so as to carry with it the virm
tues of the malt left behind by the liquor already
run 01?. While this new su ply of water is being
showered on the surface 0 the mash, the tap is
still running, and the first forty-four gallons must
be set aside for the half-hogshead of strong ale 5-.

37°

the next 40 gals. for the half-hogshead of the
ale of middle strength, when the tap should be
shut, and the worts intended for the table beer
allowed to remain in the mashing, but 24 gals.
of water at 195 degrees of temperature must be
added to the mash for the table beer, in the man-
ner already described.

Bailing t/ze V/orts.—In boiling the worts for
the strong ale, the 44 gals. already set aside for
the purpose are now to be put into the boiler,
and raised to the temperature of 200 degrees.
Put 2 lbs. of the best hops, well rubbed and
separated by the hand, into the liquor, and boil
briskly for three-quarters of an hour; stir well
during the boiling. Add 2 pounds more of the
hops, rubbed and separated as before, and let the
boiling be continued for 25 or 30 minutes longer.
The quantity of 44 gals., thus boiled, will be re-
duced by evaporation, and by the liquor absorbed
by the hops, to about 30 gals.; and before draw-
ing it off its specific gravity should be tested by
the saccharometer. This ought to be from 102
to I08, but if greater strength be required, a
quarter of a pound of raw sugar for each gallon
should be added, which ought to produce a spe-
cific gravity of from [12 to 118, equal to the best
ale. The liquor is now to be run off into the
tubs, the piece of canvas already spoken of being
fixed on the tap so as to direct the liquor through
the hair sieve into the vessel to contain it. It is
then put into the coolers to the depth in summer
of not more than two, and in winter about three
or four inches.

771: Strand I/Vorts.—-When the liquor for the
strong ale is out of the copper, the second worts
must be put into it along with two pounds of
fresh hops, and boiled briskly for an hour and a
half. If, when tested by the saccharometer, the
specific gravity is only 51, and if the quantity of
thirty gals. be in the boiler, 20 pounds of sugar
must be added, which will increase it to 73 or 74.
After boiling a few minutes, draw off the liquor
and place it in the coolers. The worts for the
table beer must now be put into the boiler, with
the four pounds of hops boiled in the processes
before referred to. It must be boiled for two
hours, and when the boiling is nearly com leted,
half a pound of sugar per gallon will give the
beer a suitable degree of specific gravity.

Fermentation.—Here it must be stated, that
for each kind of ale or beer it is requisite that
there should be a surplus quantity of a couple of
gallons to supply the loss occasioned by the fer-
mentation. It is desirable to have three fer-
menting tuns. When the liquor for the strong
ale has cooled down to 85 degrees, take out
about I gal. of it, and pour into it three English
pints of brewer’s strong ale yeast of the best
quality. Pour this mixture into the tun, into

. which put the worts, and let it then be well in-
corporated with the yeast, and cover up the tun
for the fermentation. The same process is to be
carried out with the ale of the second strength,
but the table beer is to be fermented at 80 de-
grees, and one English pint of yeast will be suf-
icient.

The morning after the liquor has been put into
the tuns with the yeast, the surface of the worts
ought to be covered with a white cream; this is
to be stirred up with the contents of the tun,
and some of the liquor subjected to examination.
Some decrease of specific gravity, and a slight
addition to the heat of the liquor ought to be

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

detected. The state of the liquor must again be
examined into in the evening, and if the fermen-

tation be weak some yeast must be added, and
mixed up with the mass of the liquor. If by the
second morning the work is going on well, the
surface of the liquor will be covered with thick
froth; but on testing the condition of the liquor,

if there appears no indication of an increase of
heat, and no apparent diminution of specific
gravity in it, let the head of froth be broken up,

and the whole be well stirred. The head of froth

which afterwards appears, of a dark brown color,

on its surface, must be carefully removed, as it.
will fall to the bottom and spoil the flavor of
the ale. The same remark may be made as to

the tyeast which ap cars at the bunghole during

the ermentation, w ich continues for some time

after the ale is put into the casks.

After the ale and beer are made, the next
process we come to is that of

Fining.— There are several methods of doing
this. Perhaps as good a way as any is to dis-
solve an ounce of isinglass in a quart of stale
beer, allowing it to remain for several days; add
another quart of the stale beer, strain throu h
a sieve, and put an English pint to each ha f.
hogshead.

CARBOIVA TED DRINK—Two quarts of
ice water, fourteen tablespoonfuls of vinegar,
two teaspoonfuls of ground ginger; sweeten to
taste, and add one teaspoonful of soda and one
of cream tartar.

CIIAIl/PA GIVE, AMERICAN—Good cider
(crab-apple cider is the best), 7 gals. ; best
fourth-proof brandy, I quart; genuine cham-
pagne wine, 5 quarts ; milk, 1 gal.; bitartrate
of potassa, 2 ounces. Mix, and let stand a short
time ; bottle while fermenting. An excellent
imitation.

CHAMP/1 GA’E, BRITISH—To every five
pounds of rhubarb, when sliced and bruised, put
I gal. of cold spring water; let it stand three
days, stirring two or three times every day; then
press and strain it through a sieve, and to every
gallon of liquor, put three pounds and a half of
loaf sugar; stir it well, and when melied barrel it.
When it, has done working bung it up close, first
suspending a muslin bag with isinglass from the
bung into the barrel. To 15 gals. of liquor put
2 oz. of isinglass. In six months bottle it and
wire the bottles; let them stand up for the first
month, then lay4 or 5 down lengthways fora
week, and if none burst, all may be laid down.
Should a large quantity be made, it must remain
longer in cask. It ma be colored ink by put-
ting in a quart of rasp erry juice. t will keep
for many years.

C HA IIIPA GIVE, B URG UIVD Y.—Loaf sug-
ar, 56 lbs.; brown sugar (pale), 481bs.; water
(warm), 45 gals.; white tartar, 4 ounces. Mix,
and at a proper temperature add yeast, (quart;
afterwards add sweet cider, 5 gals.; bitter al-
monds (bruised), 6 or 7 in number; pale spmt,
I gal.; orris powder, % ounce. .

CHAMPAGNE, CIDER—Good order, 20
gals.; spirit, I gal.; honey or sugar, 6 lbs. Mix,
and let them rest for a fortni ht; then fine wrth
skimmed milk, I quart. This, put up in cham-

agne bottles, silvered, and labeled, has often
been sold for champagne. It opens very spark-

lm .
gHAMPA GIVE CUR—To two .ounces of
powdered loaf sugar put the juice and rind of one

WINES, LIQUORS AND Wars/MR.

demon pared thin; pour over these a large glass
of dry sherry, and let it stand for an hour, then
add one bottle of sparkling champagne and one
of soda. water, a thin slice of fresh cucumber with
the rind on, a sprig of borage or balm, and ice
with blocks of clear ice.

CHAAII’AGNE, SHAM —-Take I lemon,
sliced; 1 tablespoonful of tartaric acid; I ounce
of race ginger; 1% pounds of sugar; 2% gallons
of boiling water poured on the above. When
blood warm, add I gill of distillery yeast, or 2
gills of home-brewed. Let it stand in the sun
through the day. When cold, in the evening,
bottle, cork, and wire it. In two days it is ready
‘for use.

CHERRY BOUIVCE.-—Take 10 gallons of
good whisky; 4 to 6 quarts of wild black cher-
ries bruised so as to break the stones; common
almonds, shelled, l 1b.; white sugar, 1% lbs.;
cinnamon, % oz. ; cloves, % oz; nutmeg, % 02.;
all bruised. Let stand 12 to 13 days, and draw
off. This, with the addition of 2 gallons of
brandy, makes very nice Cherry Brandy.

CIDER, General Ruin-far Alaking.—~Always
choose perfectly ripe and sound fruit.

Pick the apples by hand. (An active boy with
the bag slung over his shoulder, will soon clear
a tree. Apples that have lain any time on the
soil, contract an earthy taste, which will always
be found in the cider.)

After sweating, and before being ground, wipe
them dry, and if any are found bruised or rotten,
put them in a heap by themselves, for an inferior
cider to make vinegar.

Always use hair cloths, instead of straw, to
place between the layers of pomace. The
straw, when heated, gives a disagreeable taste
to the cider.

As the cider runs from the press, let it pass
through a hair sieve into a large open vessel,
that will hold as much juice as can be expressed
in one day. In a day, or sometimes less, the
pomace will rise to the top, and in a short time
grow very thick: when little white-bubbles break
through it, draw off the liquor by a spigot,
_ placed about three inches from the bottom, so
that the lees may be left quietly behind.

The cider must be drawn off into very clean, -
sweet casks, and closely watched. The moment'
the white bubbles before mentioned are perceived,
When .

rising at the bung—hole, rack it again.
the fermentation is completely at an end, fill up
the cask with cider, in all respects like that al-
ready contained in it, and bung it up tight; pre-
vious to which a tumbler of sweet oil may be
poured into the bung-hole.

After being made and barreled it should be
allowed to ferment until it acquires the desired
flavor, for perfectly sweet cider is not desirable.
In the meantime clean barrels for its reception
should be prepared thus: Some clean strips of
rag are dipped into melted sulphur, lighted and
hung in the bung—hole and the bung laid loosely
on the end of the rag. This is to allow the sul-
phur vapor to well fill the barrel. Tie up a half
pint of mustard seed in a coarse muslin rag and
put it into the barrel, then put your cider in.
Now add the isinglass, which “fines” the cider
but does not help to keep it sweet. This is the
old fashioned way, and will keep cider in the
same condition as it went into the barrel, it kept
in a cool place, for a year. The sulphur vapor
checks the fermentation, and the sulphur in the

o

 

37l

mustard seed keeps it checked. We hear that
professional Cider dealers are now using the bi-
sulphite of lime instmml of the mustard seed and
sulphurvapor. This lJi-sulphite of lime is the
same as the “preserving powder.” It is only
another form of using tihc sulphur, but is more
convenient and perhaps more effectual. Another
method is to add sugar, one. and a half pounds
sugar to a gallon of the cider, and let it ferment.
This makes a fermented, clear good cider, but
sweet. It lasts sweet about six months, if kept
in a cool situation.

Preparatory to bottling cider it should be ex
amined, to see whether it be clear and sparkling.
If not it should be clarified in a similar way to
beer, and left for a fortnight. The night before
it is intended to put it into bottles, the bung
should be taken out of the cask, and left so until
the next day, when it may be bottled, but not
corked down until the day after, as, if this be
done at once, many of the bottles will burst by
keeping. The best corks, and champagne-bot-
tles should be used, and it is usual to wire and
cover the corks with tinfoil, after the manner of
champagne. A few bottles may be kept in a.
warm place to ripen, or a small piece of lump
sugar may be put into each bottle before cork-
ing, if the cider be wanted for immediate use, or
for consumption during the cooler portion of the
year, but for warm weather and for long keeping
this is inadmissible. The bottled stock should
be stored in a cool cellar, when the quality will
be greatly improved by age.

CIDER, To Clear. —-To clear and improve
cider generally take two quarts of ground horse—
radish and one pound of thick gray filtering pa-
per to the barrel, and either shake or stir until
the paper has separated into small shreds, and
let it stand for twenty-four hours, when the cider
may be drawn off by means of a syphon or a
stop cock. Instead of paper a preparation of
wool may be taken, which is tobe had in the
market here, and which is preferable to paper,
as it has simply to be washed with water when
it may be used again. '

CIDER, BOILING.—-To prepare cider for
boiling, the first process is to filter it immediately
on coming from the press. This is easiest done
by placing some sticks crosswise in the bottom
of a barrel—a flour-barrel with a single head is
the best-wherein an inch hole has been bored,
and covering these sticks with say four inches of
clean rye or wheat straw, and then filling the
barrel to within a foot of the top with clean sand
or coal-dust—sand is the best. Pour the cider
as it comes from the press into the top of this
barrel, drawing it off as soon as it comes out at
the bottom into airtight casks, and let it stand
in the cellar until March. Then draw it out with
as little exposure to the air as ossible, put it
into bottles that can be tightly and) securely cork-
ed, and in two months it will be fit for use.

CIDER, I/Vz't/zout A film—To. each gallon of
cold water, put 1 lb. common sugar, % oz. tar~
taric acid, I tablespoonful of yeast, shake well,
make in the evening, and it will be fit for use
next day. Make in a keg afew gallons at a
time, leaving a. few quarts to make into next
time; not using yeast again until the keg needs
rinsing. If it gets a little sour make a little more
into it, or put as much water with it as there is
cider, and put it with the vinegar. If it is desired
to bottle this cider by manufacturers of small

37s

drinks, you will proceed as follows: Put in a
barrel 5 gallons hot water, 30 llgs. brown sugar,
% lb. tartaric acid, 25 gallons (told water, 3 pints
of hop or brewers’ yeast worked into paste with
1% 1b. flour, and I pint water will be required in
making this paste, pu’. all together in a barrel,
which it will fill, and. let it work 24 hours—the
yeast running out at a hung all the time, by put-
ting in a little occasionally to keep it full. Then
bottle, putting in 2 or 3 broken raisins to each
bottle, and it, will nearly equal champagne.

CIDER. (L ’IIAMPA GNE.—Good pale vinous
cider, I l‘togshead; proof spirit (pale), 3 gallons;
honey or sugar 14. lbs. Mix, and let them re-
main together in a temperate situation for one
rim-nth; then add orange—flower water, I quart;
and fine it down with skimmed milk, % gallon.
lfhis will be very pale; and a similar article,
when bottled in champagne bottles, silvered and
labeled, has been often sold to the ignorant for
champagne. It opens very brisk, if managed
properly. ,

CIDER, CIIA [LIP/1 GNE.—Champagne cider
is made as follows :—To 100 gals. of good cider
put 3 gals. of strained honey, or 24 lbs. of good
white sugar. Stir well and set it aside for a
week. Clarify the cider with half a gallon of
skimmed milk, or % 1b. of dissolved isinglass,
and add 4 gals. of pure spirits. After 2 or 3 days
bottle the clear cider, and it will become spark-
ling.

In order to produce a slow fermentation, the
casks containing the fermenting 1i uor must be
bunged up tight. It is a great object to retain
much of the carbonic gas in the cider, so as to
develop itself after being bottled.

CIDER, CIIERR Y.———3o gals. of apple cider,
8 quarts of dried black cherries, 2 quarts of dried
blueberries, I quart of elderberries, 75 lbs. of
brown sugar. If you desire to make smaller
quantities, proportion the quantities of the ingr'e-
dients accordingl .

CIDER, Ta CAM—Cider, if taken when
first made, brought to boiling heat, and canned,
precisely as fruit is canned, will keep from year
to year without any change of taste. Canned up
in this way in the fall, it may be kepta half dozen
years or longer, as good as when first made. It
is better that the cider be settled and poured off
from the dregs, and when brought to boiling
heat the scum that gathers on the surface taken
off; but the only precaution necessary to preser-
vation of the cider is the sealing of it up air tight
when boiling hot. The juice of other fruit can,
no doubt, be preserved in the same way. To all
tastes not already corrupted by strong drink,
these unfermented juices are very delicious. The
juice of the grape is better than wine a century
old, and more healthy. Churches believing in
literal eating and drinking at the Lord’s supper
could in this way avoid the poisonous fermented
spirits and drink the pure unfermented juice of
the grape, as was doubtless done by the primi-
tive Christians.

DER, DE VONSHIRE. — The apples,
after being plucked, are left in heaps in the or-
chard for some time, to complete their ripening,
and render them more saccharine. They are
then crushed between grooved cylinders, sur-
mounted by ahopper, or in a circular trough,
by two vertical edge-wheels of wood moved by a
horse; after assing through which, they are re-
ceived into arge tubs or cives, and are then

 

D] C T! ON .4 R Y OF E VAR Y-DA Y WANTS.

called pomace. They are afterwards laid on
the vat in alternate layers of the omace and
clean straw, called reeds. They aret en pressed,
alittle water being occasionally added. The
juice passes through a hair sieve, or similar
strainer, and is received in a large vessel, whence
it is run into casks or open vats, where eve
thing held in mechanical suspension is depositez
The termentation is often slow of being devel-
oped; though the juice be set in November or
December, the working sometimes hardly com
mences till March. Till this time the cider is
sweet; it now becomes pungent and vinous,
and is ready to be racked tor use. It the ter-
mentation continue, it is usual to rack it again
into a clean cask that has been well sul hured
out, and to leave behind the head and sediment;
or two or three cans of cider are ut into a clean
cask. and a match ot bnmstone urned in it; it
is then agitated, by which the fermentation of
that quantity is completely stopped. The cask
is then nearly filled, the fermentation of the whole
is checked, and the cider becomes fine. It, on
the first operation, the fermentation is not
checked, the process of racking is repeated until
it becomes so, and is continued from time to
time till the cider is in aquiet state and fit for
drinking.

CIDER, FRENCH—After the fruit is
mashed in a mill, between iron cylinders, it is
allowed to remain in a large tun or tub for 14 or
I 5 hours, before pressing. The juice is placed
in casks, which are kept quite full, and so placed
upon gawntrees, or stillions, that small tubs may
be put under them, to receive the matter that
works over. At the end of 3 or 4 days for
sweet cider, and 9 or 10 days for strong cider, it
is racked into sulphured casks, and then stored
in a cool place.

CIDER, To Prerme and [feet Sweet—I. To
one barrel of cider put in I lb. of mustard seed, -
2_lb. of raisins, and )4 1b. of the sticks (bark) ofl
emnamon.

2. When the cider in the barrel is in a livel
fermentation, add as much white sugar as wil
be equal to a % or % of a pound to each gallon .‘
of cider (according as the apples are sweet or i
sour), let the fermentation proceed until the
liquid has the taste to suit, then add % of an ‘=
ounce of sulphite (not sulphate) of lime to each

‘gallon of cider, shake well, and let it stand three

days, and bottle for use. The sulphite should
first be dissolved in a quart or so of cider before
introducing it intohthe barrel of cider.

3. When fermentation commences in one bar.
rel, draw off the liquor into another one—strain-
ing through a flannel cloth. Put into the cider
% of an ounce of the oil of sassafras, and the
same of the oil of Wintergreen—well shaken up
in a pint of alcohol. But one difficulty is said to
pertain to this preparation of cider. It 15 so
palatable that eople won’t keep It long. ‘

4. Much otP the excellence ot cider depends
upon the temperature at which the fermentation
is conducted, and is a int greatly overlooked
by the manufacturers Othis 1i uor. As soon as
pressed from the fruit, it shou d be strained into
sulphured casks and placed in a cool situation
where the temperature does not exceed 50° Fah.
——if left in the heating sun much of the sugar is
converted into vinegar by the absorption of at-
mospheric oxygen, and thus the li uor become!
acid and rough. On the contrary, it the fermen‘

WINES, LIQUORS AND VINEGAR.

tation be conducted at a low temperature, nearly
the whole of the sugar is converted into alcohol
and remains in the liquor instead of undergoing
the process of acetification.

The acetous fermentation of the conversion of
alcohol into vinegar proceeds most rapidly at a
temperature of ninety-five degrees Fahrenheit,
and at a lower temperature the action becomes
slower, until at 46 Fah. no such change takes
place. Independently of differences in the quali-
ty of the fruit, this is the principal cause of the
superiority of the cider made by one person over
another, living in the same neighborhood. The
one has a cooler cellar or barn than the other to
store his cider in.

In practice it has been found that sour and
rough apples produce the best cider. This aris-
es because they contain less sugar and more make
acid, and the presence of the latter impedes the
conversion of alcohol into vinegar, but cider
made with such apples can never equal in quality
that prepared at a low temperature from fruit
abounding in sugar, which, if properly strained
or racked at every indication of fermentation, will
keep good twenty years.

CIDER, T 0 Keep Sweet and Sweet”: when
Sour. — To keep cider perfect, take a keg and
bore holes in the bottom of it; spread a piece of
woolen cloth at the bottom; then fill with clean
sand closely packed; draw your cider from a
barrel just as fast as it will run through the sand;
after this, put it in clean barrels which have had
a piece of cotton or linen cloth 2 by 7inches dip-
pedin melted sulphur and burned inside of them,
thereby absorbing the sulphur fumes (this pro-
cess will also sweeten sour cider); then keep it
in a cellar or room where there is no fire, and
add % lb. white mustard seed to each barrel. If
cider is long made, or souring when you get it,
about I qt. of hickory ashes (or a little more of
other hard wood ashes) stirred into each barrel
will sweeten and clarify it nearly equal to recti—
fying it as above; but if it is not rectified, it must
be racked off to get clear of the pomace, as, with
this in it, it will sour. Oil or whisky barrels are
best to put cider in, or % pint sweet oil to a bar-
rel, or a gallon of whisky to a barrel, or both, may
be added with decidedly good effects; isinglass,
4 oz. to each barrel, helps to clarify and settle
cider that is not going to be rectified.

,I CIDER, WESTERN—To one pound of su-
gar, add one half an ounce of tartaric acid, and
two tablespoonfuls of good yeast. Dissolve the
sugar in one quart of warm water; put all in a

‘ gallon jug; shake it well, fill the jug with pure

L cold water, let it stand uncorked twelve hours,
and it is fit'for use.

g CLARE], BRITISH. -- I. Cider (rough),

{ 35 gallons; red Cape, 45 gallons; red tartar, dis-

~"solved, IV; pound. Mix well and fine.

2. Spirit, 5 gallons; cider, 50 gallons; red
Cape, 35 gallons; good Port, I 5 gallons; red
tartar, dissolved, 2 pounds. Mix well and fine.

3. Cider, 50 gallons ; spirit, 7 gallons; red
Cape, 42 gallons; good Port, 5 gallons; red tartar,
2 pounds. Mix well and fine.

4. Red Cape or Port, 50 gallons; cider, 50 gal-
lons; spirit, IO gallons; red tartar, 2 or 3 pounds.
Mix well and fine.

5. Six gallons of water, two gallons of cider,
and eight pounds of Malaga raisins, bruised; put
them all together, and let them stand closely co-
vered in a warm place for a fortnight, stirring

 

373

them well every second day; then strain out the
liquor into a clean cask, and put to it a quart of
barberries, a pint of the juice of raspberries, and
a pint of the Juice of black cherries. Work it up
with a little mustard-seed, and cover the bung
with a piece of dough; let it stand at the fireside
for four days; then bung it up, and let it remain
a week, and bottle it off. When it becomes fine
and ripe, it will drink like claret.

6. Rough Port, 50 gallons; cider, 50 gallons;
cream of tartan, 3 pounds; powdered catechu,
% pound; spirit, 4 gallons. Mix. Red Cape may
be used for Port.

CLARET CUP. — A bottle of light claret,
one of soda water, a wineglassful of powdered
sugar, alarge glass of sherry, or small one of cu-
racoa, the rind of a lemon cut very thin, a few
slices of cucumber with the rind on, a sprig of
borage or mint, mix all well together, and ice it
by putting in six or eight lumps of clear ice the
size of an egg.

COL ORINGfiJr LI Q U ORS.—-Take 2 pounds
crushed or lump sugar, put it into a kettle that
will hold 4 to 6 quarts, with % tumbler of water.
Boil it until it is black, then take it off and cool
with water, stirring it as you put in the water.

COL OA’IN G for L] Q UE U165. — Blue—Sul-
phate of indigo, nearly saturated with chalk.

Yellow—Infusion of safliowers in water.

Green—Equal parts of each of the above.

Red—Cochiueal in small quantities.

Violet—Turnsole.

Fawn color— White sugar, and heat it until
of a proper color.

Dark red or brandy color — Burnt sugar or
brandy coloring. _

COOLING DRINK fir flat Walker. —A
delicious and slightly aperient effervescing citrate
of magnesia may be made by thoroughly mixing
3 ounces of powdered loaf sugar with 2 ounces
of powdered citric acid, then add % ounce of cal—
cined magnesia, 1% ounce of bicarbonate of soda,
and 1% ounce of tartaric acid. Pass the whole
thrice through a fine sieve, and then moisten it
with very strong alcohol. Granulate it by passing
it through a coarse sieve, and dry on a wooden
tray at a temperature of 50° C. When dry add
ten drops of essential oil of lemons, and then bot-
tle at once in clean dry bottles. .

CORDIAL, ANISETTE (40 Gal:.) — Put
in a barrel I 3 gals. alcohol, 75 per cent.
solve 2% oz. essence of green anise-seed in I gal.
95 per cent. alcohol, and add ,‘4 gal. orange-
fl0wer water, 8 or ten drops infusion mace, and
5 drops essence of cinnamon. Then put in the
barrel 26 gals. sugar syrup, 25 degrees Baumé ;
stir fifteen minutes, and let it rest four or five
days; then filter. Add 2 or 3 sheets of filtering,

paper.

CORDIA L, BLA CKBERR Y.-—-To one gal.
of blackberry juice add four pounds of white su-
gar; boil and skim off, then add one ounce of
cloves, one ounce of cinnamon, ten grated nut-
megs, and boil down till quite rich; then let it
cool and settle, afterward drain off, and add one
pint of good brandy or whisky.

C ORDIA L, CARA WA Y.—Take 8 gals. spi-
rit, 50 per cent. ; I oz. oil of caraway which on
dissolve in spirit 95 per cent; 8 lbs. sugar; 8 bs.
water. Dissolve your sugar in the water; mix,
stir, and filter.

CORDIAL, CINNAMOM—This is seldom
made with cinnamon, but with either the essential

Dis- .

l

374

DICTIONARY OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

oil, or bark of cassia. It is preferred colored,
and therefore may be very well prepared by
simple digestion. If the oil be used, I dr. will
be found to be enough for 2 or 3 gallons of spirit.
The addition of 2 or 3 drops each of essence of
lemon and orange peel, with about a spoonful of
essence of cardamoms to each gallon, will improve
it. Some persons add to the above quantity
I drachm of cardamom seeds and I 02. each of
dried orange and lemon peel. 1 oz. of oil of cas-
sia is considered to be equal to 8 lbs. ofthebuds,
or bark. If wanted dark it may be colored with
burnt sugar. The quantity of sugar is 1% lb. to
the gallon.

C ORDIA L, CI T ROZV. —Yellow rind of cit-
rons, 3 lbs. ; orange peel, 1 lb. ; nutmegs bruised,
2 oz. ; proof spirit, I 3 gallons; distill or macerate,
add water sufficient, and 2 lbs. of fine lump sugar,
for every gallon of 'the cordial.

C ORDIAL, CLOVE.—Bruised cloves 1 02.,
or essential oil I dr., to every 4 gallons of proof
spirit. If distilled it should be drawn over with
a pretty quick fire. It is preferred of a very deep
color, and is therefore strongly colored with
poppy-flowers or cochineal, or more commonly
with brandy coloring, or red sanders wood. It
should have 3 lbs. of sugar to the gallon, and
this need not be very fine. The addition of
I drachm of bruised pimento, or 5 drops of the
oil for every ounce 'of cloves, improves, this
cordial.

C ORDIA L, C ORIANDER.—1 lb. of corian-
der seeds; I oz. of caraways, and the peel and
juice of I orange to every 3 gallons of proof
5 irit.

pCORDI'AL, C URA C 0.4 .——Essence of bitter
oranges, 2 oz. ; ess. of neroli, 2 oz. ; ess. of cin-
namon, % oz. ; 3 drs. mace, infused in alcohol.
Dissolve the above essences in 1 gal. alcohol,
95 per cent. ; then put in a clean barrel I3 gals.
alcohol, 85 per cent. ; 26 gals. sugar syrup, 30
degrees Baumé; and add 1 gal. perfumed spirit
as above. Color with saffron or turmeric.

C ORDIAL, GINGER—Tick one pound of
large white currants from their stalks, lay them
in a basin, and strew over them the rind of an
orange and a lemon out very thin, or half a tea-
spoonful of essence of lemon, and one ounce and
a half of the best ground ginger anda quart of
good whisky. Let all lie for twenty-four hours.
If it tastes strong of the ginger, then strain it;
if not, let it lie for twelve hours longer. To
every quart of strained juice add one pound of
loaf sugar pounded; when the sugar is quite dis-
solved and the liqueur appears clear, bottle it.
This cordial is also extremely good made with
raspberries instead of currants.

CORDIAL, NOYA U. — Blanch and pound
very fine two pounds of the best bitter and half
a pound of sweet almonds. Add the thinly pared
rinds of two lemons, and three tablespoonfuls of
boiled milk which has become cold, put all to-
gether into a jar, and add two quarts of old
whisky, cork up the jar, and let it stand for six
weeks, shaking the jar every day. At the end of
that time strain the liquor, and to every quart
add three pints of clarified syrup, and filter
through blotting-paper. The almonds that are
strained from the liquor makea nice flavoring
for puddings, by putting them into a wide-
mouthed bottle and pouring whisky over them.

C ORDIAL, PEPPERMINT. —To make
peppermint cordial take thirteen gallons of recti-

 

fied spirits, one in five under hydrometer proof,
twelve pounds of loaf sugar, one pint of spirits of
wine that will fire gunpowder, fifteen penny-
weights of oil of peppermint, and as much water
as will fill up the cask, which should be set on
end; after the whole has been well mixed this
will make twenty gallons.

C ORDIA L, Strait/bevy or Raspémr-Sugar
down the berries overnight, using more sugar
than you would for the table, about half as much
again. In the morning lay them in a hair sieve
over the basin; let them remain until evening,
so as to thoroughly drain; then put the juice in
a thick flannel bag; let it drain all night, being
careful not to squeeze it, as that takes out the
brightness and clearness. All this should be
done in a cool cellar, or it will be apt to sour.
Add brandy in proportion of one-third the quan.
tity of juice, and as much more sugar as the taste
demands. Bottle it tightly. It will kee six or
eight years, and is better at last than at rst.

CREAM NE C T A R.—Tartaric acid, 1 ounce;
cream of tartar, 1 ounce; white sugar, 1% pounds;
water, 1 pint; the whites of two eggs, well
beaten; one tablespoonful of wheat flour. Put
all the above articles in a tin dish, and heat it—
but not to the boiling point—and then add a drop
of good oil of lemon, or any other flavor you
choose, and then you have the syrup. Directions
fizr Using. -— Take a. glass two-thirds full of wa-
ter, add 3 tablespoonfnls of the syrup, and as
much soda as you can place on a dime. This
makes a cool and refreshing drink in hot weather.

CREAM SODA.—Loaf sugar ten lbs., wa-
ter 3 gals.; warm gradually so as not to burn;
good rich cream, 2 quarts; extract vanilla, 1%
ounce; extract nutmeg, % ounce; tartaric acid,
4 ounces. Just bring to a boiling heat ; for, if
you cook it any length of time, it will crystallize;
use 4 or 5 spoonfuls of this syrup instead of three,
as in other syrups; put % teaspoonful of soda to
a glass; if used without a fountain. For charged
fountains no acid is used.

CURRANT 1 CE I/VA T ER.—Press the juice
from ripe currants, strain it, and put a pound of
sugar to each pint of juice. Put it into bottles,
cork and seal it, and keep it in a cool, dry lace.
When wanted, mix it with ice water for a rink;
or put water with it, make it very sweet, and
freeze it. Freezing -takes away much of the
sweetness. The juices of other acid fruits may
be used in the same way.

EFFERVESCING FRUIT DRINKS. —-
Very fine drinks are prepared by putting straw-
berries, raspberries, or blackberries, into good
vinegar, and then drawing it off, and adding a
new supply of fruit, till enough flavor is secured.
Keep the vinegar bottled, and in hot weather use
it thus : Dissolve % a teas oonful, or less, of
saleratus, or soda, in a tumb er (very little wa-
ter), till the lumps are all out. Then fill the
tumbler two~thirds full of water, and add the
fruit vinegar. If several persons are to drink,
put the fruit vinegar into each tumbler, and dis-
solve the soda in a pitcher, and pour into the
tumblers as each person is ready to drink; delay
spoils it.

E T HER, BU T RIC-This is much used to
impart a pineapple flavor to rum. Dissolved in
8 or to parts of alcohol it forms the pineapple
essence. From 20 to 25 drops of this essence,
added to 1 lb. sugar containing a little citric acid,
imparts to the mixture a. strong taste of pineapples

WINES, LIQUORS AND VINEGAR.

ETHER, AMYLO-ACETIC. —_This. is a
preparation of fruit oil and other ingredients,
and when diluted with alcohol, it is sold as es-
sence of jargonelle pear, and is used for flavor-
ing different liquors. Fifteen parts amylo-acetic
ether, with half a part of acetic ether, dissolved
in 100 parts of alcohol, form what may be called
the bergamot pear essence, which, _when em~
ployed to flavor sugar, acidulated With a little
citric acid, imparts the odor of the bergamot
pear, and a fruity, refreshing taste.

ETHER, PELARGONIC. —This has the
agreeable odor of the quince, and when dissolved
in alcohol in due proportion, forms the quince
essence.

ETHER, AMLITIC—(Same as amylo'eth-
er) mixed with butyric ether, forms in alcoholic
solution the .banana essence. -

E T HER, AMYLIC.-—An alcoholic solution
of this ether in the proportion of I part to 6 or 8
of alcohol forms a flavoring liquid under the
name of ap le essence.

FIN] G POWDER. —Take eggs, any
quantity; beat them to a froth, and expose them
to a gentle heat or in the sun to dry, then pow-
der. In some cases a little fine wheat flour is
added, the paste made into balls, and dried in
the sun, or a warm room, and then powdered.
Used for all the purposes of fresh eggs by solu—
tion in cold water.

FREEZING PREPARA T I OAK—Common
sal-ammoniac, well pulverized, I part, saltpetre
2 parts ; mix well together. Then take common
soda, well pulverized. To use, take equal quanti‘
ties of these preparations (which must be kept
separate and well covered previous to using) and
put them in the freezing pot; add of water a

roper quantity, and put in the article to be
£01m in a proper vessel; cover up, and your
wants will soon be supplied. For freezing cream
or wines this can’t be beat.

GIN—Take 100 gallons of clean, rectified
spirits; add, after you have killed the oils well,
1% oz. of the oil of English juniper, % ounce of
angelica essence, % oz. of the oil bitter almonds,
% oz. of the oil of coriander, and % oz. of the
oil of caraway ; put this into the rectified spirit
and well rummage it up: this is what the recti-
fiers call strong gin.

To make this up, as it is called by the trade,
add 45 lbs. of loaf-sugar, dissolved; then rum-
mage the whole well up together with 4 oz. of
roche alum. For finings, there may be added 2
oz. of salts of tartar.

011V, CORDIAL.—Of the oil of bitter al-
monds, vitriol, turpentine, and juni er, % a
drachm each, kill the oils in s irits 0 wine; 15
gallons of clean, rectified proo ~spirits, to which
add I drachm of coriander seeds, I drachm of
pulverized orris root, % pint of elder-flower wa-
fer, with [0 lbs. of sugar and 5 gals. of water or
1 nor.

qGIIV, ENGLISH—Plain malt spirit, 100
gals.; spirits of turpentine, I pint; bay salt, 7
lbs. Mix and distill. The difference in the flavor
of gin is produced by varying the proportion of
turpentine, and by occasionally adding a small
quantity of juniper berries. '

GIZV, HOLLAND.—-To 4o gals. of neutral
spirits, add 2 ounces spirits nitre; 4 lbs. of loaf
sugar; I oz. oil juniper; % ounce oil caraway.
The juniper and caraway to be first cut in a
quart of alcohol; stand 24 hours.

 

375

011V, HOLLAND ( To Reduce).—To 25 gals.
pure Holland gin, add 25 gallons pure French
spirit]; % gallon of white sugar syrup; mix thor-
ou .
gGIIYVGER POE—1. Crushed white sugar 28
lbs., water 30 gals., yeast I pint, powdered gin-
ger (best) 1 1b., essence of lemon % 02., essence
of cloves % oz. To the ginger pour half a gal-
lon of boiling water and let it stand I 5 or 20
minutes. Dissolve the sugar in 2 gals. of warm
water, pour both into a barrel half filled with
cold water, then add the essence and the yeast;
let it stand half an hour, then fill up with cold
water. Let it ferment 6to 12 hours, and bot-
tle.

2. One and ahalf ounces of the best ground
Jamaica ginger, I 02. of cream of tartar, I lb. of
sugar, and 2 sliced lemons ; to all of which add
4 quarts of boiling water, and % pint of yeast;
let it ferment for 24 hours, strain and bottle it.
In a week or two it will be ready for use.

3. Water 5% gals. ; ginger root, bruised, %
1b.; tartaric acid % oz.; white sugar 2% lbs.;
whites of 3 eggs, well beaten; lemon 011 I tea-
spoon; yeast I gill. Boil the root for 30 minutes
in I gal. of the water, strain off, and put the oil
in while hot; mix. Make over night, and in the
morning skim and bottle, keeping out sedi-
ments.

HOPS, To CIwam—I’ut them between the
fingers or the palms of the hand, and if good, a
rich glutinous substance will be felt, with a fra-
grant smell, and a fine yellow dust will appear.
The best color is a fine olive green, but if too
green, and the seeds are small and shriveled,
they have been picked too soon and will be defi-
cient in flavor. If of a dusty brown color, they
were picked too late, and should not be Chosen.
When a year old, they are considered as losing
one-fourth in strength.

.LE/l/ONADE.—White sugar I lb. ; tartaric
acid % oz.; essence of lemon 30 drops; water
quarts. Mix. -

LEAIONADE, I T A LIAM—Pare and press
2 doz. lemons; pour the juice on the peels, and
let it remain on them all night; in the morning
add 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, a quart of good sherry,
and 3 quarts of boiling water. Mix well, add a
quart of boiling milk, and strain it through a
jelly-bag till clear.

LEMONADE, MILK—The juice of seven
lemons, halfa pint of sherry, % ofa pound of
white sugar, and a quart of boiling water; mix,
and when cold add a pint of boiling milk; let it
stand for some hours, then strain clear through
a jelly-bag, and ice. This is always better if
made the day before it is required.

LEAIONADE, PORTABLE. —- I. Mix
strained lemon juice with loaf sugar, in the pro-
portion of 4 large lemons to a pound, or as much
as it will hold in solution; grate the rind of the
lemons into this, and preserve the mixture in a
jar. If this is too sweet, add a little citric acid.
Use a tablespoonful to a tumbler of water.

2. Tartaric acid, one-half ounce; loaf sugar,
three ounces; essence of lemon, one-half drachm.
Powder the acid and sugar; mix them and pour
the essence of lemon upon them, a few drops at
a time; when all is mixed, divide into twelve
equal parts, and put them in white paper, like
powders. When wanted, dissolve one .in a
tiliumbler of water, and lemonade will be the re-
s t.

375

fDlCTIOIt/‘ARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

r LEMOIVADE, EFFER VESCING.— Take
powdered white sugar, I pound; bicarbonate of
soda, % pound; essence of lemon, 1% drachms.
Mix and divide it into six dozen papers.

Tartaric or citric acid, 5 ounces. Divided into
the same number of papers.

The granulated effervescent powders found in
the market are made in the following wayz—A
clean iron or copper pan is heated over a slow
fire, and the mixture of finely pulverized sugar
and citric acid put in and well stirred, until it
commences to cake, without of course changing
its color; the pan is then taken from the fire and
the bicarbonate of soda stirred into the mixture,
until it is uniformly distributed through the
mass, when the whole is pressed througha coarse
sieve, and the granules exposed to the air for a
little while to harden. They are then ready for
bottling. A tablespoonful of this put in a glass
of water will dissolve almost instantaneously,
producing a good lemonade.

MEAD.—The following is a good receipt for
mead :-— On twenty pounds of honey pour five
gallons of boiling water; boil, and remove the
scum as it rises; add one ounce of best hops, and
boil for ten minutes; then put the liquor into a
tub to cool; when all but cold add a little yeast
spread upon a slice of toasted bread; let it stand
in awarm room. When fermentation is finished,
bung it down, leaving a peg-hole which can after-
wards be closed, and in less than a year it will
be fit to bottle.

MEAD, SARSAPARILLA. — I pound of
Spanish sarsaparilla; boil 5hours, so as to strain
offz gallons; add 16 pounds of sugar, and 10 oz.
of tartaric acid. Half a wineglass of syrup to
half pint tumbler of water, and one half teaspoon-
ful of soda water, is a fair proportion for a drink.

ME T HE GLIM—Mix one and a half barrels
of water with as much honey as will cause an egg
to rise a little above the water; then boil the
mixture to one barrel, skimming off the surface.
It will be a fine red or wine color, and clear; then
remove from the fire, and when cold, put it into
a barrel, leaving the bung-hole open for several
days, until fermentation be over; then stop it
close, and put into a cold cellar.

NECTAR, CREAM. —- Part Ist; take one
gallon water, 6 lbs. loaf sugar, 6 oz. tartaric acid,
gum arabic I oz. Part 2d; 4 teaspoonfuls of flour,
the whites of 4 eggs beat finely together; then
add % pint water; when the first part is blood
warm put in the 2d, boil 3rninutes, and it is done.
Directions: 3 tablespoonfuls of the syrup to a
glass half or two-thirds full of water, add % tea-
spoonful of carbonate of soda made fine; stir well
and drink at your leisure.

0RANGEADE.—Squeeze the juice of seven
good oranges, peel three of them, and pour boil—
ing water over the peel, cover it close till cold,
boil water and sugar together to a thin syrup,
skim carefully; when all are cold, mix the juice,
the infusion, and the syrup well together, with as
much more water as will make a rich drink,
strain through a jelly-bag, add a large glass of
pale brandy, and ice it well with lumps of clear

ice.

ORGEA T. — Boil two quarts of milk with a
stick of cinnamon, and let it stand to be quite cold,
taking out the cinnamon. Blanch four ounces of
the best sweet almonds; pound them well (in a
marble mortar) with a little rose water ; mix them
well with the milk; sweeten to your taste; let it

 

boil again for a few minutes; strain through a
fine sieve till quite smooth and free from almonds.
Serve either cold or warm, in handled glasses.
PORTER. — Pale malt, 8 quarters ; amber
malt, 6 quarters; brown malt, 2 quarters. Mash
it twice, with 55 and 48 barrels of water, then
boil with Kent hops, one cwt., and set with yeast,
10 gallons; salt, 7 pounds ; flour, 2 pounds.
Twenty barrels of cod table beer may be had
from the grains. 1? deficient in color, add burnt

malt.

PORTER, For Bottling.- Pale malt, 5 uar-
ters; amber malt, 3 quarters; brown ma t, 2
quarters; burnt malt to color if required. Mash
with twenty-four, fourteen and eleven barrels of
water, then boil with Kent hops, one cwt., and
set with yeast, 7 gallons; salt, 3 pounds. Mash
the grains for table beer.

PORTER, T a Bottle.-— 1. Choose clear weath-
er, if possible.

2. Leave the bung out of the cask all ni ht.

3. Fill your bottles, then throw sheetso paper
over them to keep out the dust, and let them
stand for twenty-four hours, then cork and wire.

4. Pack them away in a cool place.

If for exportation to a hot climate, the bung
must be left out of the cask for twenty-four
hours, and the bottles must not be corked for at
least three days. If for immediate use, we ma
ripen it in two or three days, by adding a sm 1
piece of sugar to each bottle before corking.

,PUZVCH.—Water, 3 gals.; tartaric acid, 402.
or to taste; lump sugar, to sweeten; brandy, 3
pints; rum, 3 pints. The peels of three lemons
grated, essence of lemon to flavor; rub the es-
sence with a little lump sugar in a mortar, adding
a little of the spirit. ~

PUNCIJ, MILK -— Yellow rinds of 2 dozen
lemons; steep two days in two quarts of brandy;
add spirits, 3 qts. ; hot water, 2 qts.; lemon juice,
I qt.; loaf sugar, 4 lbs.; boiling milk, 2 qts.; 2
nutmegs grated; mix, and in two hours strain
through wool.

RA TAFIA. ~— Ratafia may be made with the
juice of any fruit. Take 3 gals. cherr juice,
and 4 lbs. sugar, which you dissolve int e juice;
steep in 2’; gals. brandy ten days; 2 drs. cinna-
mon; 24 c oves; 16 oz. peach-leaves; 8 oz. bruised
cherry kernels. Filter, mix both liquids, and
filter again.

RU/Vl, yAZlIAICA.— I. To 24 gallons New-
England rum, add 5 gallons Jamaica rum; 2 oz.
butyric ether ; % ounce oil of caraway, cut with
alcohol, 95 per cent. Color with sugar coloring.

2. To 36 gallons pure spirits, add 1 gallon
Jamaica rum; 3 ounces butyric ether;
acetic ether; ‘2 gallon sugar syrup. ix the
ethers and aci with the Jamaica rum, and stir it
well in the spirit. Color with burnt sugar
coloring.

RUZII, PINE-APPLE.—To 50 gallons rum,
made by the fruit method, add 25 pine-apples
sliced, and 8 pounds white sugar. Let It stand
two weeks before drawing ofl.

RUM, SANTA CRUZ.—— To 50 gallons pure
proof spirit, add 5 gallons Santa Cruz rum; 5
pounds refined sugar, in % gallon water; ounces
butyric acid; 2 ounces acetic ether. Co or if ne-
cessary.

RUJI, ST. CROIX.-— To 40 gallons p. or n.
spirits, add 2 gallons St. Croix rum; 2 ounces
acetic acid; 1y, ounce butyric and; 3 pounds
loaf sugar.

ounces ,

WINES, LIQUORS AND VINEGAR.

RUM SHRUB.-—Tartaric acid, 5 lbs.; pale
sugar, Ioo lbs.; oil lemon, 4drs.; oil orange,
4drs.; put them into a large cask (80 gals.)
and add water, 10 gals. Rummage till the acrd
and sugar are dissolved, then add rum( roof),
20 gals; water to make up 55 gals. in ad ; col-
oring I quart or more. Fine with 12 eggs. The
addition of 12 sliced oranges will improve the
flavor.

SALINE DRA UGHYI—Take 20 grains of
carbonate of soda, and an equal quantity of white
sugar, 25 grains of either lemon or tartaric acid;
mix this in 2 glasses of water, as usual. If you
substitute half a lemon for the acid, it will be a
still more delicious draught and very refreshing
in hot weather, or when feverish.

SCHIEDAM SCHNAPPS, To Imitata—
To 25 gals. good common gin, 5 over proof, add
15 pints strained honey; 2 gals. clear water;
5 pints white-sugar syrup; 5 pints spirit of
nutmegs mixed with the nitric ether; 5 pints
orange-flower water; 7 quarts pure water; I
ounce acetic ether; 8 drops oil of Wintergreen,
dissolved with the acetic ether. Mix all the in-
gredients well; if necessary, fine with alum and
salt of tartar.

SHERIJE T.—Boil in 3 pints of water 6 or 8
stalks of green rhubarb, and 4 oz. of raisins or
figs; when the water has boiled about half an
hour, strain it, and mix it with a teaspoonful of
rose water, and orange or lemon syrup to the
taste. Drink it cold.

SHERBE T, LEMON—Dissolve 1% lbs.
of loaf sugar in I quart of water ; add the juice
of Io lemons; press the lemons so as to extract
both the juice and the oil of the rind, and let the
peel remain a while in the water and sugar.
Strain through a sieve, and freeze like ice

cream.

SHERBE T, 0RAZVGE.—Take the juice of
I dozen oranges, and pour I pint of boiling wa-
ter on the peel, and let it stand, covered, half an
hour. Boil I 1b. of loaf sugar in I pint of water,
skim, and then add the juice and the water from
the peel to the sugar. Strain and cool, or freeze
it. The juice of 2, and a little more sugar, im-
proves it.

SHERBET, PERSIAN—Pulverized sugar
I 1b.; super-carbonate of soda 4 ounces; tartaric
acid 3 oz. ; put all the articles into the stove oven
when moderately warm, being separate, upon
paper or plates; let them remain sufiiciently long
to dry out all dampness absorbed from the air,
then rub about 40 drops of lemon oil, (or if pre-
ferred any other flavored oil,) thoroughly with
the sugar in a mortar—wedge-wood is the best—-
then add the soda and acid, and continue the
rubbing until all are thoroughl mixed.

SUMMER DRINKS—The first, the hest,
because the safest for laborers, invalids, the
sedentary, for all classes, at all times of the day
and night, is half a glass at a time, repeated in
I0 minutes if desired, of common cold water, at
the temperature of the spring, or well, or reser-
vorr, or cistern. Ice water is more palatable,
but very often kills.

Any drink which contains alcohol, even cider,
root beer, or domestic cordials—all are not only
not harmless, but are positively injurious, be-
cause the atom of alcohol, by using the strength
of the next minute for the present, leaves the
system that next minute just that much weaker
than it would have been had not that atom of

 

377

alcohol been taken; this is the case, because that
atom of alcohol has not one particle of nutriment,
hence cannot supply the system .with one single
atom of strength.

If anything is added to the summer drink, it
should contain some nutriment, so as to strength-
en the body, as well as to dilute the blood for
purposes of a more easy flow through the system,
as any one knows that the thinner the fluid is,
the more easily does it flow. Some of the more
nutritious and safe drinks are given below, espe-
cially for those who drink in the sun of summer,
all to be taken at the natural temperature of the
shadiest spot in the locality.

To any of them ice may be added, but it is a
luxurious, not a beneficial ingredient, nor a safe
one.

I. Buttermilk.

2. A pint of molasses to a gallon of water.

3. A lemon to a half a gallon of water, and a~
teacupful of molasses, or as much sugar.

4. Vinegar, sugar and water are substitutes,
but the vinegar is not a natural acid, contains
free alcohol, hence is not as safe or healthful. /'

5. A thin gruel made of corn or cats, is
strengthening.

6. A pint of grapes, currants, or garden ber-
ries to a half gallon of water is agreeable.

Cold water applied to the head is very refresh-
ing to harvesters. Wading in water abates thirst.
Persons cast away at sea will sufi'er less from
thirst, if the clothing is kept wringing wet with
salt water. A piece of silk fitted in the hat is a
great protection to the head against sun heat; it
is an absolute protection if one side is well cov-
ered with gold leaf. As there is always a s ace
between the top of the head and crown o the
hat, hatters should practice this idea.

S YR UP, BLA CKBERR Y. -— Blackberry
juice, I pint; clarified sugar, 2% lbs.; brandy or
whisky, % glass. Dissolve the sugar by the aid
of heat in the juice, and when cold add the spirit.

S YR UP, Aromatic Blackéerry.—The aromatic
blackberry syrup is made by taking aromatic
syrup instead of clarified sugar. The former
is made in the following way: Refined sugar,
5 pounds ; water, 2 pints ; bruised ginger, I
ounce; cloves, % oz.; calamus root, % oz.; nut-
megs, I oz.; boil for 2 hours the ginger, cloves,
calamus, and nutmegs in the water, strain, and
dis olve the sugar, and when near cold add oil
of itter almonds, 4 drops; essence of cinnamon,
15 drops; essence of nutmegs, I tablespoonful;
essence of lemon, 20 drops. Stir the whole well
until the oils are perfectly dissolved.

S Y]? UPS, To Colon—Powder cochineal I oz. ;
soft water I pint; boil the cochineal in the wa-
ter for a few minutes, using a copper kettle;
while boiling, add 30 grains of powdered alum,
and I dr. of cream of tartar; when the coloring:
matter is all out of the cochineal, remove it from,
the fire, and when a little cool, strain, bottle,
and set aside for use.

SYRUP, LEMOM—Coffee sugar, 3 lbs.;
water, 1% pints; dissolve by gentle heat, and
add citric acid 3 oz., and flavor with oil or ex-
tract of lemon. Or take citric acid in powder %
oz.; oil of lemon 4 drops ; simple syrup I quart.
Rub the acid and oil in 3 or 4 spoons of the
syrup, then add the mixture to the remainder,
and dissolve with gentle heat.

S YRUP, Imitation Lemon.—Four ounces of
tartaric acid, powdered; 2 drachms of oil of lem-

378

on. This can be kept in a vial for a month, and

then must be renewed. A tablespoouful, ' put

into water sweetened with white sugar, makes
' six glasses of lemonade.

S YR UP, RASPBERR K—Take orris root,
bruised, any quantity, say % lb. , and just hand-
somely cover it with dilute alcohol, (76 per cent.
alcohol, and water, equal quantities,) so that it
cannot be made any stronger of the root.

SYRUP, SARSAPARILLA. — To simple
syrup add 10 drops oil of anise; 20 drops oil of
Wintergreen; 20 drops oil of sassafras, and 6 oz.
of caramel or coloring to the gallon. Before the
oils are added to the syrup, they should be cut
by grinding them in a mortar With as much sugar
as they will moisten, or mix with a small quantity
of alcohol.

SYRUP, SODA .—The common or more wa-
tery syrups are made by using loaf or crushed

. sugar, 8 pounds; pure water, I gallon; gum
arabic, 2 ounces; mix in a brass or copper kettle;
boil until the gum is dissolved, then skim and
strain through white flannel, after which add
tartaric acid, 5% ounces, dissolved in hot water;
to flavor, use extract of lemon, orange, rose,
pineapple, peach, sarsaparilla, strawberry, etc. ,
% ounce to each bottle, or to your taste.

S YR UP, VANILLA .-—-To simple syrup add
% oz. of extract of vanilla to the gallon.

TEARS of flu: VVz'dow zy‘ Illalaéar.——Plain
spirit at 18° B. 5 quarts; bruised cloves % oz. ;
bruised mace 48 grs. ; digest in a corked carboy

for a week, add burnt sugar to impart a slight
color, filter, and add white sugar 4% lbs. ; dis-
solved in distilled or filtered rain water % gallon;
some add 2 or 3 oz. of orange flower water. A
pleasant liquor.

VINEGAR, To Maker-I. Make a box about
three and a half by three feet, and seven feet
long, with one side hung on hinges so that it can
be opened and shut. Inside of this box, on
cleats to hold them, fit shelves the size of the in-
side of the box; the shelves are to be about one
and ahalf inches apart. On the upper side of
these shelves gouge out channels with a one and
a half inch chisel or gouge, a half or three-quar-
ters of an inch deep, running from one end to
the other (nearly), then turn and come back to
(nearly) the other end, about six inches from the
last channel made, and so continue until the up-
per side is covered with channels running‘f om
end to end. There should be cleats fastene to
the under side of the shelf to prevent the shelf
from warping; the cleats are put on with screws.

The channels must be made slightly slanting.

At the end of the last channel made bore a
three-quarter inch hole. In this hole place a

’short wooden tube, so that when the cider ar-
rives here it will fall through and into the com.
mencement of the first channel in the next shelf
below. All these shelves are made alike. The
shelves must, of course, slant from side to side,
and about two inches is the right slant; that is
to say, one side of the shelf must be two inches
lower than the other. One shelf must slant one
way, and the one next below must slant the other
way. Under the hole in the last channel of the
bottom shelf, place a barrel or hogshead to catch
the vinegar as it falls through the tube. Now
bore a one inch hole in the bottom of the box,
at one end, not into a channel, but so the vine-
gar cannot run out. Now in the other end of
the first or lowest shelf, bore a one inch hole

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

near one corner, then in the next shelf above in
the opposite end and corner, bore another like
hole, and so continue until each shelf has such a
hole bored through it, and of course you will
want a hole in the top of the box. These holes
are for a draft of air to circulate through the box,
and as the air in the box is warmer than the air
in the room there will of course be a draft of air
through the box. The cider or other mixture
heats itself in passing through.

To commence making vinegar, have your box
or maker in some small room where you can
have a fire and keep the temperature about 90°
or 95° Fah. Have a barrel, or tub, or hogshead
placed a little higher than the box and near the
end where the first channel commences in the
top shelf; in this tub or hogshead have a faucet
so that you can regulate the amount of cider or
mixture running. Your mixtures ought to be
warmed to about 90 or 95 degrees. A few gal-
lons or a half barrel of good strong vinegar
should be run through first, so that the shelves
will be well soured before letting other mixtures
run through. It is a good idea to add one-third
or one-fourth of good vinegar to any mixture of
cider before allowing it to run through the maker.
Then open the faucet so that a stream not larger
than a straw shall fall into the commencement of
the first channel in the top shelf, and when it
falls through the last hole and into the barrel
below the maker, you will find it is good, strong,
and pure vinegar. This I believe to be the best
and simplest way to make vinegar quickly yet
discovered. The side hung on hinges should be
kept closed while making and should shut tight.
The outside box can be put together with nails,
being careful to expose none to the action of the
vinegar inside of the box. Do not use any nails
or iron in putting in the shelves, etc., as if you
do, you will have ink instead of vinegar. All
fastenings must be made of wood pegs in place
of nails, etc., etc. Of course, when once started,
you will make vinegar night and day until
through making.

If you do not intend to make any great amount
of vinegar it would probably be best for you to
make it with shavings, which you can get at the
planing mills cheaply or for nothing. If not near
a mill they can be made quickly by hand.

To make molasses vinegar, take any amount
of water, and for every ten gallons used add one
of molasses and a little yeast, and let it ferment.
After done working let it run through the maker.
If you want something very strong use two gal-
lons, instead of one, for every ten gallons of wa-
ter. Sorghum vinegar is made the same.

2. As my object is to give full practical direc-
tions to manufacture vinegar from cider and other
alcoholic solutions, in the quickest possible time,
I shall do so by using the fewest words I can,
and give directions that all may understand. In
the first place it is necessary that the cider should
have passed through the first fermentation or got
through working—the longer you let 1t stand
after fermentation the better for the resulting
Vinegar— then get four hogsheads, remove. three
of the heads from two of the same, leave In the
head that is the least likely to leak, then get four
sticks, one and ahalf inches in diameter or there-
about, and one foot long; make a sort of table or
frame-work just large enough to go inside the
hogshead, and place it in the same; now lay
across this frame-work sticks or boards, they need

WINES, LIQUORS A1VD VINEGAR.

379

 

not be tight together, but perhaps half an inch
apart, so as to let the air go up through; now fill
the hogshead with shavings from some hard
wood (birch, or maple, or beech is best), then
take one of the hogsheads that has no head in
and shave oFf one end so as to fit into the hogs-
head just filled, one or two inches; then place it
on top of the other hogshead, the same standing
on one end, and fill this one to within about eight
inches of the top with shavings. The shavings
are merely poured into the stands from baskets;
they are not to be pressed or pounded down, as

' it is very important that they should lay in the

stands loosely, so as to allow the air to circulate
up through all parts of the stands; then geta
wooden hoop, one that came ofi" from one of the
hogsheads, and place it inside of the last hogs-
head filled, about eight inches from the top, and
fasten it with wooden pegs ; then get some good
boards, matched are best, and cut out a head
that will fit on the hoop just put in, and cork it
tight with rags or cotton; then bore about fifty
holes in the head not larger than a quarter of an
inch. It is easiestto mark the head off in squares
and bore the holes in the corner off each square
all over the head, before the head is fastened in
the hogshead; then cut off three or four boards
to lay on top for a cover, then bore a hole about
two inches from the bottom of the lower hogs-
head for a faucet to draw off the vinegar; then
another three-quarter inch hole about one foot
from the bottom, this to be left open for a vent
hole, as it is highly important that there should
be a current of air through the shavings, as this
is what causes the acetification of the cider or
other mixture poured through the shavings ; also
bore a three—quarter inch hole just below the
perforated head; then fix the other two hogs-
heads the same as the two just finished, and
place all four in some room in some out-shed
where you can have a fire if necessary, and you
are ready to go making vinegar.

Now warm the room to about ninety by the
thermometer, and keep it so for two or three
hours ; the cider or other mixture should stand
in the vinegar room until it has acquired a tem-
perature of about eighty or ninety degrees; then
commence making vinegar by pouring into the
stand marked No. I, cider at the rate of one and
a half to two gallons per hour and continue to do
so until you have about ten gallons in the lower
hogshead of No. I stand, then draw from No. I
stand as much and as often as you put it in No. I,
and pour it into No. 2, and from No. 2 draw
every hour pure made vinegar.

It will be remembered that the stands should
stand quite level, so that the cider or mixture in
spreading over the head bored full of holes will
run through each and every hole, so that in
dropping over the shavings it will be exposed to
the air as much as possible. If on lifting the
top, the air coming out smells strong of vinegar
all is doing well (and the air should be a little
warmer than the air in the vinegar room); if it
is not so, then you must not pour the cider so
often, and not quite so much at a time, and all
will soon be right. It is not necessary that you
should be particular to pour it through every
hour, but in order to make the largest amount
per day, you should pour it through as often as
every hour, which is as often as it should be
poured through. It would be advisable to have
your cider or other mixture already worked be-

 

fore you commence making vinegar, as after you
once get your stands in working order they keep
improving, and will make better vinegar at the
end of a week than when you first commenced
with them; and after you once get them started
you ought not to stop them until you get through
making or have made enough to last six months.
You can if you wish let the stands remain idle
for a week at any time, but if idle longer, say a
month or two, the shavings are very apt to get
mouldy, then they must be exchanged for new
ones. The shavings last from three to six
months constant use, and may be known to be
spoiled When the liquid coming from the stands
is not clear, and the vinegar will not have the
full strength. The shavings can be washed and
used again, but it is about as well to get new
ones. If you want to make a little cheaper vine-
gar, and yet one that you can warrant to keep
pickles, you can take the cider and put three
times as much water with it, and for every ten
gallons of water add one gallon of cheap molasses
or cheap whisky (which is best) and let it fer-
ment ; if molasses, then pour through the same
as if it were cider; you will find you have a good
strong vine ar, and not more than one in fifty
can tell it rom pure cider vinegar; if you want
vinegar that is extra strong, then use two gallons
of molasses in place of one as above, and you
will find you have vinegar strong enough for
table or any other use. After you get your
stands making vinegar, it is a good plan to put
with your cider or mixture about one gallon of
vinegar to every eight or ten of mixture, as it acts
as a kind of vinegar ferment, and the vinegar
makes quicker and better; it is a good plan to stop]
the lower vent hole every night after you are done
work for the day, and open it in the morning.
Commence work as early in the morning as
you choose, and work as late at night as you
wish. Some makers work all night, and the
stands work as well or better than if idle nights.
should you not have or wish to purchase hogs-
heads, and not be particular about making it very
fast or in any great quantity, you can take com-
mon cider barrels and fix them the same as di-
rected to fix the hogsheads, but you must not
pour more than three or four quarts through
these small stands at once. Stands of this size
can be put in some unoccupied room in the house
or in the cellar; when you are making vinegar it
is not expected you will pay your whole attention
to it, but will attend to- your other work, the
same as usual, and pour through your vinegar
every hour, or about as often as this ; in this way
the cost of making is little or nothing. Of course,
the more stands you have the faster you can
make. Should you have molasses sugar, or re-
fuse molasses, mix about one gallon with ten of
water, and ferment it, and pour it through the
same as if it were pure cider. The same mix-
tures as used by the box-making arrangement
can of course be used in making with the shav—
ings. Rain or brook water is much better for
making mixtures than well water, which is gen‘
erally hard. It takes from two to five days for
molasses and water or other mixtures to ferment,
and may be known to be through fermenting
when it remains quiet and the hissing noise ceases.
If yeast is plenty and cheap, it is well to use two
to four quarts to the barrel of mixture, and should
be well stirred up. If the color is not dark
enough, then take any quantity of cheap brown

380

DICTIONARYOFEVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

sugar and put it in a kettle over a hot fire with
about one half part water, and let it burn for
about one hour; then put about one quart of wa-
ter to every five pounds of sugar, and mix it
well, and you have a good coloring and can
color to suit your self. If there should be any
trouble in the stands not working good, you can
easily apply a remedy, but if you follow direc-
tions, everything will go on all right.

3. To eight gallons of clear rain water, add
three quarts of molasses; turn the mixture into
a clean tight cask, shake it well two or three
times, and add three spoonfuls of good yeast or
two yeast cakes. Place the cask in a warm
place; and in ten or fifteen days add a sheet of
common wrapping—paper, smeared with molas-
ses, and torn into narrow strips, and you will
have good vinegar. The paper is necessary to
form the “mother,” or life, of the liquor.

4. Acetic acid, 4 lbs.; molasses, 1 gallon; yeast,
I quart; put them into a forty-gallon cask, and

fill it up with rain water; stir it up, and let it_

stand one to three weeks, letting it have all the
air possible, and you will have good vinegar. If
wanted stronger, add more molasses. Should
you at any time have weak vinegar on hand, put
molasses into it to set it working. This will soon
correct it.

5. Molasses I qt. ; yeast I pt. ; warm rain wa-
ter 3 gals. Put all into a jug or keg, and tie a
piece of gauze over the bung to keep out flies
and let in air. In hot weather set it in the sun;
in cold weather set it by the stove or the chimney
corner, and in three weeks you will have good
vinegar. When this is getting low, pour out
some for use, and fill up the jug in the same pro-
portion as at first, and you will never have
trouble for want of good vinegar.

6. To I gallon of clear clover blossoms add I
quart of molasses and a % pound of sugar ; pour
over these one gallon of boiling water. When
cold, add % a pint of good yeast. If more wa-
ter is needed, add as you please. It makes
strong, pure vinegar.

7. Mix 5 qts. of warm rain water with 2 qts.
of Orleans molasses, and 4 qts. of yeast. In a
few weeks you will have the best vinegar you
ever tasted.

8. One pint of strained honey and two gallons
of soft water. Let it stand in a moderately-
warm place. In three weeks it will be excellent

Vinegar.

VINEGA R, CAMP.—— Take sliced garlic, 4
ounces; soy, 2 ounces; walnut catsup, 2 ounces;
cayenne pepper, I ounce; black pepper, I ounce;
chopped anchovies, 15; vinegar, I gallon; coch-
ineal, I drachm. Infuse for one month, and strain.

VIJVE GA R, CIDER. —- I. The most profit-
able return from such apples as are made into
cider is the further transformation of the juice
into vinegar. To do this, the barrels should be
completely filled, so that all impurities that
"working"—-fermenting—throws offwill be eject-
ed through the bung-hole. This process should
be completed before the barrel is put in the cel-
lar, and when this is done, the purified juice
should be drawn out of the original cask and put
into others where there is a small amount of old
vinegar, which will amazingly hasten the desired
result. If no vinegar can be obtained to “start"
the cider, it must remain in a dry cellar six
months, and perhaps a year (the longer the bet-
ter), before it will be fit for the table.

 

2. Save all your apple parings and slice in
with them all waste apples and other fruits; keep
them in a cool place till you get a pailful, then
turn a large plate over them, on which a light
weight should be placed, and pour on boiling
water till it comes to the top. After they have
stood two or three days pour of? the liquid, which
will be as good cider as much that is offered for
sale; strain and pour it into a cask or some other
convenient vessel, (anything that can be closely
covered will do,) and drop in a piece of “mother,”
or vinegar plant, procured of some one that has
good vinegar. If set in a warm place, the vine-
gar will be fit for use in three or four weeks,
when it can be drawn off for use, and the cask
filled with cider made from time to time by this
process. The parings should be pressed com-
pactly into a tub or pail, and only water enough
poured over to come to their surface, otherwise
the cider would be so weak as to require the ad-
dition of molasses. By having two casks, one
to contain the vinegar already made and the other
to fill into from time to time, one never need be
without good vinegar. The rinsings of preserve
kettles, sweetmeat jars, and from honey, also
stale beer and old cider, should all be saved for
the vinegar cask; only caution should be used
that there be sufficient sweetness or body to
whatever is poured in, or the vinegar may die
from lack of strength.

3. A barrel or a cask of new sweet cider, buried
so as to be well covered with fresh earth, will
turn to sharp, clear, delicious vinegar in three or
four weeks, as good as ever sought affinity with
cabbage, pickles, or table sauce, and better than
is possible to make by any other process.

VINE GA 1?, COLD WA T Elli—To six gal-
lons of rain water, add one gallon of common
molasses, and half a gallon of good hop yeast;
set the cask in a warm place, and shake well
once a week for a few weeks; and you will have
excellent vinegar. A bit of gauze or very thin
cloth should be tacked over the bung-hole, to
keep out dust’ and insects till the vinegar is made;
then put in the bung and keep it from the air or
it will lose strength.

VINEGAR, C0 WSLIP. — To 4 gallons of
water with the chill just taken all, add 6 pounds
of brown sugar and % a peek of cowslips, flowers
and stalks together; put all into a cask with 3
tablespoonfuls of yeast; lay a piece of glass or
slate over the bung-hole, and set it in a warm
place till the vinegar grows sour, when the bung
may be fastened down. This is a cheap and ex-
cellent vinegar, keeping pickles nice and cris .
If kept in a warm place the vinegar will be rea y
in six months. A quarter of an ounce'of gelatine
or isinglass will make it clear sooner.

VINE GA R, BLA CK CURRANT. -—To four
pounds of fruit, very ripe, put three pints of
vinegar; let it stand three days, stir occasionally;
squeeze and strain the fruit. After boiling ten
minutes, to every pint of juice add one pound of
lump sugar. Boil twenty minutes.

VINEGAR, HONEK—Mix one pound of
honey with a gallon of cider, and expose it to the
sun, or keep it where it is warm, and in a few
months it will be so strong that water will be
necessary to dilute it.

VINE GA 1?, H ORSERA DI Sit—Pour a quart
of best vinegar on three ounces of scraped horse-
radish, an ounce of minced eschalot, and one
drachm of cayenne; let it stand a week, and you.

WINES, LIQUORS AND VINEGAR.

will have an excellent relish for cold beef, salad,
etc., costing scarcely anything. Horseradish is
in highest perfection about November. .

VINE GAR, GOOSEBERR lC—Bruise the
gooseberries, when ripe, and to every uart put

quarts of water; stir them well toget er, .and
liet the whole stand for 24 hours, then strain it
through a canvas bag. To every gallon of
liquor add I lb. of brown sugar, and stir them
well together before they are put into the cask.
Proceed in all other respects as before. This
vinegar possesses a pleasant taste and smell; but
raspberry vinegar, which may be made on the
same plan, is far superior in these respects. The
raspberries are not required to be of the best
sort, still they should be ripe and well-flavored.

VINEGAR, PERRK—Put 30 or 40 lbs. of
wild pears into a tub, pour water over them, and
leave them 3 days to ferment. Repeat this every
day for a month, at the end of which it Will be
good vinegar.

VINEGAR, D]? Y PORTABLE. — Wash
well half a pound of white tartar with warm wa-
ter, then dry it, and pulverize as fine as possible.
Soak that powder with good sharp vinegar, and
dry it before the fire or in the sun. Re-soak it
as before with vinegar, and dry it as above, re-
peating this operation a dozen times. By these
means you will have a very good and sharp
powder, which turns water instantly into vine-
gar. It is very convenient to carry in the pocket,
especially when traveling.

VINEGAR, PRIMROSE.~—To I5 quarts of
water put 6 lbs. of brown sugar; let it boil ten
minutes, and' take off the scum; pour on it half
a peck of primroses; before it is quite cold, put
in a little fresh yeast, and let it work in a warm
place all night. Put it in a barrel in the kitchen,
and when done working close the barrel, still
keeping it in a warm lace.

VINEGAR, RASPBERR Y.—-—I. Take fresh
raspberries picked from their stalks, 3 lbs.; best
white wine vinegar, 2 pints. Steep the raspber-
ries for a fortnight in a covered glass vessel in
the vinegar, and then strain without pressing,
adding afterwards 2 or 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, which
is to be dissolved with a gentle heat in the water
bath. By this method, which is unfortunately
expensive, the beautiful aroma of the fruit is
entirely preserved.

2. Boil down the juice of raspberries with an
equal weight of sugar, and add to the mixture
an e ual quantity of the best ‘white wine or
Frenc vinegar.

3. (Very fine.) Fill glass jars, or large wide-
necked bottles, with very ripe but perfectly
sound, freshly-gathered raspberries, freed from
the stalks, and cover them with pale white wine
vinegar; they may be left to infuse from a week
to ten days without injury, or the vinegar may
be poured from them in four or five. After it is
drained off, turn the fruit into a hair sieve placed
over a deep ,dish or bowl, as the juice will flow
slowly from'it for many hours ; put fresh rasP-
berries into the bottles, and pour the vinegar
back upon them. Two or three days later
change the fruit again, and when it has stood the
same space of time drain the whole of the vine-
gar from it; pass it through a jelly-bag or a thick
linen cloth, and boil it gently for 4 or 5 minutes
with its weight of good sugar, roughly powdered,
or a pound and a quarter to the exact pint, and
be very careful to remove the scum entirely as it

 

381 ,

rises. On the following day bottle the syrup,
observing the directions we have given for the
strawberr vinegar. When the fruit is scarce it
may be c anged twice only, and left a. few days
longer in the vinegar.

4. To each quart of raspberries, allow a pound
of loaf sugar. Mash the ras berries and strew
the sugar over them, having rst crushed it with
the rolling-pin. Let the raspberries and sugar
stand till next day, keeping them well covered,
then put them in a thin linen bag and squeeze
out the juice with your hands. To every pint of
juice allow a quart of the best vinegar. Bottle
it, cork it tightly, and set it away for use. It
will be ready in a few days.

5. Put a pound of very fine ripe rasrflerries in
a bowl, bruise them well, and pour upon them a
quart of the best white wine vinegar; next day
strain the liquor on a ound of fresh ripe rasp-
berries; bruise them a so, and the following da
do the same, but do not squeeze the fruit, or 1t
will make it foment; only drain the liquor as dr
as you can from it. The last time pass it throng
a canvas bag, previously wet with the vinegar,
to prevent waste. Put t e juice into a stone jar,
with a pound of sugar to every pint of juice; the
sugar must be broken into lumps; stir it, and
when melted, put the jar into apan of water;
let it simmer, and skim it; when cold, bottle it;
it will be fine, and thick, when cold, like strained
honey, newly prepared.

VIZVEGAR, RHUBARB.—-Excellent vine-

ar may be made from the rhubarb plant in the
ollowing manner: For 5 gals. take 12 ordinary
sized stalks of rhubarb; pound or crush them
with a iece of wood in the bottom of a strong
tub; add 3 gals. of water; let this stand twenty-
five hours, strain off the crushed rhubarb, and
add 9 lbs. of sugar free from molasses, and a
small teacupful of the best brewers’ yeast; raise
the temperature to 60° or 80°, and put into a
twelve-gallon cask; lace it in a position where
the temperature willp not fall below 60°. In a
month strain off from the grounds, returning it
to the cask again, and let it stand till it becomes
vinegar.

VINE GA 1?, STRA WBERRK—I. Take the
stalks from the fruit, which should be a highly
flavored sort, quite ripe, fresh from the beds,
and gathered in dry weather ; weigh and put it
into large glass jars, or wide-necked bottles, and
to each pound pour about apint and ahalf of
fine pale white wine vinegar, which will answer
the purpose better than the entirely colorless
kind, sold under the name of distilled vinegar,
but which is the pyroligneous acid greatly diluted.
Tie a thick paper over them, and let the straw-
berries remain from 3 to 4 days; then pour off
the vinegar and empty them into a jelly-bag, or
suspend them in a cloth that all the liquid may
drop from them without pressure; take an equal
weight of fresh fruit, pour the vinegar upon it,
and 3 days afterwards repeat the same process,
diminishing a little the proportion of strawberv
ries, of which the flavor ought ultimately to over-
power the vinegar. In three days drain off the
liquid very closely, and after having strained it
through a linen or a flannel bag, weigh it, and
mix with it an equal quantity of highly refined
sugar roughly powdered; when this is nearly
dissolved, stir the syrup over a very clear fire
until it has boiled 5 minutes, and skim it thor-
oughly; pour it into a delicately clean stone

382

pitcher, or into large China jugs, throw a folded
cloth over and let it remain until the morrow;
ut it into pint or half pint bottles, and cork them
ightly with new velvet corks, for if these be
ressed in tightly at first, the bottles would be
iable to burst; in four or five days they may be
cllosely corked, and stored in a dry and cool
'ace.
P Damp destroys the color and injures the flavor
of these fine fruit Vinegars, of which a spoonful
or two in a glass of water affords so agreeable a
summer beverage, and one which, in many cases
of illness, is so acceptable to invalids.
Where there is a garden the fruit may be
.thrown i to the vinegar as it ripens, within an
interval forty-eight hours, instead of being all
put to infuse at once, and it must then remain a
proportionate time; one or two days in addition
to that specified will make no difference to the
preparation. The enameled stewpans are the
est possible vessels to boil it in, but it may be

simmered in a stone jar set into a pan of boiling

water, when there is nothing more appropriate
at hand; though the syrup does not usually keep
so well when this last method is adopted.

2. Put 4 pounds of very ripe strawberries,
nicely dressed, into 3 quarts of the best vinegar,
and let them stand 3 or 4 days; then drain the
vinegar through a jelly-bag, and pour it on the
same quantity of fruit. Repeat the process in
three days for a third time. Finally, to each
pound of the liquor thus obtained, add I pound
of fine sugar. Bottle, and‘let it stand covered,
but not tightly corked, I week; then cork it tight,
and set it in a cool, dry place, where it will not

freeze.

VINE GAR, SUGAR. — Put nine pounds of
brown sugar to every six gallons of water; boil
it for a quarter of an hour, and then pour it in a
tub in a hike-warm state ; put to it a pint of new
bran, let it work four or five days, stir it up three
or four times a day, then turn it into a clean
barrel, iron-hooped, and set full in the sun.

VIrVEG-A Rfrom 50R GHUM—For 4o gals.
take 8 gallons of syrup; put this in first, then fill
with rain water. If you can get filtered cistern
water it will make the vinegar clearer. Add a
teacupful of hop yeast, then set the barrel in a
warm place with bung open.

VINEGAIE, WHITE I’VINE.—- Mash up
20 lbs. raisins, and add 10 gallons water; let it
stand in a warm place for one month, and you
will have pure white wine vinegar. The raisins
may be used a second time the same way.

VINEGAR, T o Imreare t/ze Sharpness and
Strenglfi of.—Boil two quarts of good vinegar till
reduced to one; then put it in a vessel and set
it in the sun for a week. Now mix the vinegar
with‘ six times its quantity of bad vinegar in a
small cask: it will not only mendrit, but make it
strong and agreeable.

VLVEGAIC PLANYZ— What is popularly
know as the vinegar plant is only a form of the
“mother of vinegar,” which is, again, only a
state of common mould. For the manner of
obtaining it, we quote the following from the
Irish Farmers’ Gazette:—Leave a little vinegar
in a small bottle to become stale (during hot,
close weather is best), till a film appears on the
surface. If a few fragments of coarse brown
sugar be now added, it will somewhat aid its
growth; but when the film has attained the thick-
ness of parchment, it is ready for transferto

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERKDAY WANTS.

syrup, where it soon becomes the housewife’s
normal vinegar plant. Procure large jar or
bottle, and to two quarts of boiling water add
half a pound of treacle and half a pound of the
commonest brown sugar; stir well together, and
when cool transfer the film from the surface of
the vinegar to the surface of the syrup; cover up
to exclude air, and keep in a warm cupboard.
This film will rapidly grow, and form a thick,
slippery, gelatinous mass all over the surface of
the syrup, and in course of six weeks or so the
liquid will be changed to excellent vinegar. The
vinegar plant can now be taken and divided into
la ers, or cut up into fragments, each piece of
w ich if placed upon fresh syrup will rapidly
grow and change the liquor into vinegar. The
vinegar should be allowed to settle, and be strain-
ed before it is used.

WAX PUT T Y, firleal'y Cares, Bangs, etc.
—Spirits turpentine, 2 pounds; tallow, 4 pounds;
yellow wax, 8 ounds; solid turpentine, 12
pounds. Melt t e wax and solid turpentine
together over a slow fire; then add the tallow.
When melted, remove far from the fire; then
stir in the spirits turpentine, and let it cool.

WHISK’Y, BOURBOM— To 100 gallons
pure proof spirit, add 4 ounces pear oil; 2 oz.
pelargonic ether; I3 drs. oil of Wintergreen,
dissolved in the ether; I gallon wine vinegar.
Color with burnt sugar.

WHISK Y, Iris/r or Scott/z. — To 40 gallons
proof spirits, add 60 drops of creosote, dissolved
in I quart of alcohol; 2 ounces acetic acid; I
pound loaf sugar. Stand 48 hours.

IVHISKY, AIONOIVGAHELA. — To 40
gallons proof spirits, add 2 ounces spirits ofnitre;
4 pounds dried peaches ; 4 pounds N. 0. sugar;
I quart rye (burnt and ground like coffee); %
pound allspice; % pound cinnamon; % pound
cloves. Put in the ingredients, and after stand-
ing 5 days, draw it off, and strain the same, if
necessary.

WIIISK Y, T a Neutralize to 172111”: Various
[iguana—To 40 gallons of whisky, add I% lbs.
unslaked lime, % lb. alum, and % pint spirits
of nitre. Stand 24 hours and draw it off.

WIIVE IlIAIt’lNG. Pratt‘s: ty’. — Tile Illurt.
—We suppose that the grapes are fully ripened
and ready for use, although still on the vines.
Select a clear day and gather the vintage as soon
as the dew is off the grapes. Every bunch should
be clipped from the vines with a pair of scissors,
and carefully 123d in a basket, or other vessel, to
avoid bruising as much as possible. Gather none
but the fully ripe grapes, and as many of them
as can be pressed in a day to insure uniform

uality, a very important consideration. Besides,
t e larger the quantity fermented at once, the
better the wine will be. The grapes being
brought to the wine house should now be care
fully overlooked, and all the imperfect and decay.
ed ones removed. The next consideration is
whether the grapes shall be pressed with, or
without their stems. Many recanmend the
latter, as there is an astringent property in the
stems that gives a peculiar flavor to the wine;
but no doubt the better way is to strip the
berries from the stalks. This is sometimes done
by hand picking, but a very simple instrument
will greatly expedite the process. Takea box
or trough, and lay within it, a few inches
from the bottom and from the top, a lattice
work of wooden slats (which had better

WINES, ZLIQUORS AND VINEGAR.

be joined without nails); upon this lay the
bunches. - _ _

Lay a similar but smaller lattlce, w1th ahandle
to work it, upon the mass, and 'by rubbing the
grapes between the two, the berries w111_ readily
separate from the combs and fall through into the
trough beneath. By the aid of an assrstant,
drawing the grapes as they fall, through an
opening at the end of the trough, a great deal
can be done in a short time. The next step 18
to mash the grapes. The oldest and best method
is to stamp them with naked feet. In some wme
countries the Stampers wear sabots, or wooden
shoes; sometimes wooden pounders or beetles
are used, and sometimes the grapes are passed
between rollers, grooved or fluted diagonally, so
as not to break the grape stones. (There is a
bitter principle in the stones or pips very much
to be avoided.) .

We now come to the pressing. The ordinary
wine-press is a platform of solid wood, raised
high enough from the ground to allow the must
to run through a spout on one stde into proper
vessels. Two upright beams of heavy timber,
and a cross beam at top, support a powerful
screw that is worked by hand levers, like awrnd.
lass. The grapes are placed upon the platform
and heavy timbers laid upon them: then above
these other tiers of timbers are crossed, and
upon all the great screw comes down, just as the
President of the United States comes down upon
the postmasters and collectors.

Besides the above there are smaller presses
used, some of which are for sale at the agricul-
tural warehouses. For small quantities of grapes
a homemade press will answer. Take an or-
dinary barrel, bore holes in the bottom and lower
half, with a half-inch auger, place a layer of
clean straw on the bottom and against the sides,
within which place the mashed grapes, and upon
them a layer of straw and the barrel-head. Upon
the whole place a. short upright of stout timber.
Stand this barrel in a tub, about a foot from the
wall; nail a cleat to the wall, under which place
the end of a lever that rests upon the upright;
by hanging heavy weights upon the long end of
the lever, you have a tolerably powerful wine-

ress.

A few hints about pressing. Some exquisite
wines are made by piling a mass of trodden
grapes in a great upright vessel, and using only
the must that runs off without the aid of the
screw. The rest of the must goes to press and
produces an ordinary wine. When the wine press
is used alone, three qualities can be produced:
first, by reserving the must that flows from the
gentlest pressure; secondly, by keeping apart
the must of a severer pressure; and, thirdl , by
extracting the last drop of juice with al the
power of the screw, aided by a long rope attach-
ed to the lever, and worked by a Windlass. We
may also add, that a sort of bastard wine can be
made, by adding water to the skins left after the
third pressure, partially fermenting the mass,
and subjecting it to a fourth pressure. The pro-
duct, however, is not wine, but onlyafirst cousin
of wine, of poor quality, and known as piquette.

In this country these nice distinctions are not
always observed. The entire product of a vine-
yard often goes to form one wine only, and in
this view we shall continue; hinting, that as the
select wines of the world bring enormous prices,
and the common wines the opposite, that it is

 

383-

worth the while of every American wine-maker
to do his best, and follow the injunction of St.
Paul: “Try all things.”

Fermentatian. — As soon as the must is pres.
sed from the grapes, it is put in casks prepared
for the purpose; these casks should be as large
as possible, “for the larger the cask the better
the wine.” The casks should be three-quarters
full only, and it is recommended by some, that a
square hole, about six inches across, should b
left at the top, covered by a coarse piece of can
vas. The following extract from Mulder’s
“Chemistry of Wine,” will explain this process
clearly:

“ShOrtly after pressing, the li uid appears to
be in motion, and little air bubb es rise‘ to the
surface; fermentation has begun; the juice, not
quite clear at first, becomes more turbid, the
motion of the liquor increases, and froth is form-
ed on the surface; the gas bubbles become
larger, the consistency of the liquor decreases, as
do also its saccharine contents. In place of these,
more and more alcohol is engendered, and the
liquid, originally watery, and now enriched with
alcohol to a greater or less degree, can no longer
retain in a state of perfect solution various mat-
ters which it previously held in that condition.
Fermentation reaches its highest point with great-
er or less rapidity, according to the temperature;
in a moderate climate it generally occurs in from
three to four days.

“When the fermentation is diminishing, and
before it is completely finished, the whole mass
of liquid is stirred up, in order to bring its ele-
ments into contact with each other afresh.

“After some days the whole mass reaches its
highest point of effervescence, and at this it re-
mains for three or four days; it then begins to
diminish, and by forming a precipitate at the
bottom, allows the wine to become gradually
clearer.

“The wine is now racked off into another ves-
sel, the sediment being left behind. Fermenta-
tion continues, but more quietly; and this is call-
ed after-fermentation. Sugar is being constantly
converted into alcohol and carbonic acid, and a
fresh precipitate is constantly forming, and de-
positing itself at the bottom.

“After the wine has undergone this after-fer-
mentation for several months (and the fermenta-
tion generally increases again during the next
spring; at the time, it is said, when the vines
blossom, that is, when the warmth of the air ex-
cites fermentation again,) and has been drawn
off from time to time in other vessels, in order
to free it from the sediment which has been con-
tinually forming, it is transferred into casks in
which it can be exported.”

WINE, A PPLE. —- Take pure cider made
from sound ripe apples as it runs from the press;
put sixty ounds of common brown sugar into
fifteen gal ons of the cider, and let it dissolve;
then put the mixture into a clean barrel, and fill
the barrel up to within two gallons of being full,
with clean cider; put the cask in a cool place,
leaving the bung out for forty-eight hours; then
put in the bung, with a small vent, until fermen-
tation wholly ceases, and bung up tight; and in,
one year the wine will be fit for use. This wine
requires no racking; the longer it stands upon
the lees, the better.

WINE, APRICOT. —-Wi e clean and cut
twelve pounds of_apricots; boi them in two gal-

384

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DA Y WANTS.

 

lons of water till the water has imbibed the flavor
of the fruit; then strain the li uor through ahair
sieve, and to each quart of it put six ounces of
loaf sugar; then boil it and add 6 lbs. sugar and
one pound of sliced beetroot. When fermented,
put into the cask a quart or more of brandy
or flavorless whisky.

WINE, BIA CKBERRK—Gather the ber-
ries when perfectly ripe, and in such a manner
as to avoid bruising. Em ty them, as fast as
gathered, into a tub untilP you have a quantity
sufficient to fill, with juice, the cask in which
you propose to make the wine.

Have the utensils, etc., required in the recess,
all ready before you pick—or at least be ore you
mash your berries. Everything must be scru-
pulously clean. You want a keg, a beater of
seasoned hard wood, a pail, a large bowl, tureen
or other vessel into which to strain your juice, a
good thick strainer—two or three folds of fine
white flannel is the best material— a couple of
yards of osnahurgs, a spare tub or abucket or
two, and a tub of soft spring water. Everything
must be perfectly clean and free from dirt or odor
of any kind.

Crush the berries thoroughly with the heater,
and then after straining the liquor, which runs
freely from the pulp through the folded flannel,
empty it into the cask, measuring it as you put it
in. When the juice has been all drained from
the pulp, you proceed to press the pulp dry. If
the quantity is large, this had best be done by a
regu ar press, but if only a few gallons are want-
ed, the osnaburg answers very well. Stretch
out the osnaburg, put a gallon or a gallon and a
half of the pulp into the center, fold the cloth
over it on each side, and let a strong hand at
either end twist the cloth with all their strength;
when the juice is well pressed out, remove and
lay aside the cake of pomace, and put in more

ul . This process is apparently rough, but is
ot rapid and effectual. The juice so extracted
is strained and measured into the cask as before
mentioned. The flannel strainer and the osna-
burg may need rinsing occasionally during the

work.

When all the pulp is pressed, ut the hard
cakes of pomace taken from the clot into a tub,
and pour upon them a little more soft spring
water than you have clear juice; break up the
balls and wash them thoroughly in the water, so
as to obtain all the juice left in the mass, and
then strain it clear: measure out as many gallons
of this water as you have of clear juice, say five
gallons of the water to five gallons of the juice,
dissolve in each gallon of the water six pounds
of sugar (brown or white, as you want a com-
mon or first-rate wine), and when thoroughly
dissolved, add the juice (first passing it again
through the strainer), and mix them. Then
rinse out your cask, put it where it can stand
undisturbed in a cellar; fill it perfectly full of
the mixture, and lay a cloth loosely over the
bung-hole. In two or three days fermentation
will commence, and the impurities run over at
the bung; look at it every day, and if it does not
run over, with some of the mixture which you
have reserved in another vessel, fill it up to the
bung. In about three weeks fermentation will
have ceased, and the wine be still; fill it again,
drive in the bung tight, nail a tin over it, and let
it remain undisturbed until the following Novem-
ber, or what is better, March. Then draw it off,

 

without shaking the cask, put it into bottles or
demijohns, cork tightly and seal over.

For a ten-gallon cask, you will need about 4%
gallons of juice, 4% gallons of water, and 26
pounds of sugar, and in the same proportion for
larger or smaller quantities. Some persons add
spirit to the wine, but instead of doing good, it
is only an injury.

Another process is, after pouring in the: mix-
ture for a ten-gallon cask, to beat up the whites
of two or three eggs into a froth, put them into
the cask, and with a long stick mix them thor-
oughly with the wine. In five or six days, draw
the now clarified wine off by a spigot, and with-
out shaking the cask at all, into a clean cask,
bung up and tin, to be drawn off into glass in
November or March.

The more careful] your juice is strained, the
better the quality 0 your sugar, and the more
scrupulously clean your utensils, particularly
your kegs, are, the purer and better will be your
wme.

The best quality, when you gather your own
fruit, and make it yourself, costs you only the
price of the white sugar, and when bottled will
cost you in money about twelve and a half cents
a bottle.

WINE, BLACKBERRY, (Olfitr Method:
(31“ Making).——I. Having procured berries that
are fully ripe, put them into a tub or pan with a
tap to it, and pour upon them as much boiling
water as will just cover them. As soon as the
heat will permit the hand to be put into the ves-
sel, bruise them well till all the berries are bro-
ken. Then let them stand covered till the her.
ries begin to rise toward the. top, which they
usually do in' three or four days. Then draw
off the clear liquor into another vessel, and add
to every 10 quarts of this liquor 4 pounds of
sugar; stir it well, and let it stand to work a
week or ten days; then filter it through a flannel
jelly bag into a cask. Take now 4ounces of
isinglass and lay it to steep for twelve hours in
a pint of blackberry juice; the next morning boil
it over a slow fire for half an hour with a quart
or 3 pints more juice, and pour it into the cask;
when cool, rouse it about well and leave it to
settle for a few days, then rack it off into a clean
cask, and bung it down.

2. The following is said to be an excellent
recipe for the manufacture of a superior wine
from blackberries :— Measure your berries, and
bruise them; to every gallon adding 1 quart of
boiling water. Let the mixture stand twenty-
four hours, stirring occasionally; then strain off
the liquor into a cask, to every gallon adding 2
pounds of sugar; cork tight, and let stand till
the following October, and you will have wine
ready for use, without any further straining or
boiling, that will make lips smack, as they never
smacked under similar influence before. .

3. Gather when ripe, on a dry day. Put into
a vessel, with the head out, and a tap fitted near
the bottom; pour on them boiling water to cover
them. Mash the berries with your hands, and
let them stand covered till the pulp rises to the
top and forms a crust, 31 three or four days.
Then draw off the fluid into another vessel, and
to every gallon add one pound of sugar; mix
well, and put into a cask, to work for_ a. week or
ten days, and throw off any remaining 1685:
keeping the cask well filled, particularly at the
commencement. When the worklng has ceased,

WINES, LIQUORS AND VleEGAR.

385

 

bung it down ; after six to twelve months it may
be bottled.

W'INE, CHERRK—L To make 5 pints of
this wine, take 15 lbs. of cherries and 2 of cur-
rants; bruise them together; mix with them %
of the kernels, and put the whole of the cherries,
currants, and kernels into a barrel, with a uart-
er of a pound of sugar to every pint ofjuice.
The barrel must be quite full; cover the barrel
with vine leaves, and sand above them, and let
it stand until it has done working, which will be
in about three weeks; then stop it with a bung,
and in two months time it may be bottled.

2. Gather the cherries when quite ripe. Pull
them from their stalks, and press them through
a hair sieve. To every gallon of the liquor add
2 lbs. of lump sugar finely beaten, stir all to-
gether, and put it into a vessel that will just hold
it. 'When it has done fermenting, stop it very
close for three months, and then bottle it off for

use.

[VINE, CIDER—Let the new cider from
sour apples, (ripe, sound fruit preferred,) fer-
ment from I to 3 weeks, as the weather is warm
or cool. When it has attained to a lively fermen-
tation, add to each gallon, according to its acidi-
ty, from % a lb. to 2 lbs. ofwhite crushed sugar,
and let the whole ferment until it possesses re-
cisely the taste which it is desired shoul be
permanent. In this condition pour out a quart
of the cider and add for each gallon % ounce of
sulphite of lime, not sulphate. Stir the powder
and cider until intimately mixed, and return the
emulsion to the fermenting liquid. Agitate brisk-
ly and thoroughly for a few moments, and then
let the cider settle. Fermentation will cease at
once. When after a few days, the cider has be-
come clear, draw off carefully, to avoid the sedi~
ment, and bottle. If loosely corked, which is
better, it will become a sparkling cider wine,
and may be kept indefinitely long.

IV]NE, C URA’A/VIZ—The currants should
be fully ripe when picked; put them into a large
tub, in which they should remain a day or two ;
then crush with the hands, unless you have a
small patent wine press, in which they should
not be pressed too much, or the stems will be
bruised, and impart a disagreeable taste to the
juice. If the hands are used, put the crushed
fruit, after the juice had been poured off, in a
cloth or sack and press out the remaining juice.
Put the juice back into the tub after cleansing it,
where it should remain about three days, until
the first stages of fermentation are over, and re-
moving once or twice a day the scum copiously
arising to the top. Then put the juice in a. ves-
sel—a. demijohn, keg, or barrel—of a size to suit
the quantity made, and to each quart of juice add
3 lbs. of the best yellow sugar, and soft water
sufficient to make a gallon.

Thus, ten quarts of juice and 30 lbs. of sugar
will give you 10 gals. of wine, and so on in pro-
portion. Those who do not like sweet wine can
reduce the quantity of sugar to two and a half,
or who wish it very sweet, raise to three and a
half pounds per gallon.

The vesse must be full, and the bung or stop-
per left off until fermentation ceases, which will

e in 12 or 15 days. Meanwhile, the cask must
be filled up daily with currant juice left over, as
fermentation throws out the impure matter.
When fermentation ceases, rack the wine of?
carefully, either from the spiggot or by a syphon,

I

 

and kee running all the time. Cleanse the cask
thorouglily with boiling water, then return the
wine, bung up tightly, and let it stand4or 5
months, when it will be fit to drink, and can be
bottled if desired.

All the vessels, casks, etc., should be perfectly
sweet, and the whole operation should be done
with an eye to cleanliness. In such event, every
drop of brandy or other spirituous .liquors added
will detract from the flavor of the wine, and will
not, in the least degree, increase its keeping
qualities. Currant wine made in this way will
keep for an age.

WINE, CURRANT, Ot/m’ Met/lads quae-
ing—I. To every pailful of currants, on the
stem, put one pailful of water; mash and strain.
To each gallon of the mixture of juice and water
add 3% lbs. of sugar. Mix well, and put into
your cask, which should be placed in the cellar,
on the tilt, that it may be racked off in October,
without stirring up the sediment. Two bushels
of currants will make one barrel of wine. Four
gallons of the mixture of juice and water will,
after 13 lbs. of sugar are added, make 5 gals. of
wine. The barrel should be filled within three
inches of the bung, which must be made air
tight, by placing wet clay over it after it is
driven in.

2. Pick your currants when ripe on a fair day,
crush them well, and to every gallon of juice add
two of water and 3 lbs. of sugar—if you wish it
sweeter, add another half pound of sugar—mix
all together in some large vessel, then dip out
into earthen jars, let it stand to ferment in some
cool place, skimming it every other morning.
In about ten days it will be ready to strain off;
bottle and seal, or put in a cask and cork tight,
the longer you keep it the better it will be.

3. Into a ten gallon keg, put Io quarts of cur-
rant juice, 30 lbs. of sugar and fill up with water.
Let it stand in a cool place, until sufficiently
worked, and then bung up tight. You can let it
remain in the cask, and draw out, as you want
to use it.

WINES, Coloring fin—VVhite sugar, I 1b.;
water, I gal.; put into an iron kettle, let boil,
and burn to a red black, and thick; remove from
the fire and add a little hot water to keep it from
hardening as it cools ; then bottle for use.

WJJVE, To Cool.—In the absence of ice take
a bottle of wine, surround it with a piece of linen
dipped in water, and place it in a draught.‘ It:
will be found that the liquid in the bottle will be:
reduced to a temperature much below that of the-
surrounding air, having parted with its caloric to»
the vapour formed by the evaporation of the wa-—
ter of the cloth.

WINE, DAMS OM—Gather the fruit dry,
weigh and bruise it, and to every 8 lbs. of fruit:
add I gal. of water; boil the water, pour it on
the fruit scalding hot; let it stand for two days ;‘
then draw it off, put it into a clean cask, and to
every gallon of liquor and 2% lbs. of good sugar;
fill the cask. It may be bottled off after stand-
ing in the cask a year. On bottling the wine,
put a small lump of loaf sugar into every bottle.

WAVE, ELDERBEA’R K—Take elderberry
juice, Io gals.; water, IO gals. ; white sugar, 45
pounds ; red tartar, 8 ounces. These are put
into a cask, a little yeast added, and the whole is
fermented. When undergoing fermentation,
ginger root, 4 ounces; allspice 4, and cloves I!
ounce, are put into a. bag of clean cotton cloth,

25

386

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

and suspended in the cask. They give a pleasant
flavor to the wine, which will become clear in
about two months, and may be drawn off and
bottled. Some add brandy to this wine, but if
the fermentation is properly conducted, this is
not necessary.

WYNE, ELDER, (Flavored wit/r Ila/>5.)—
A lady, disliking the taste of spices in home-
made wines, was induced to try the cffect of fla-
voring elder wines with hops. The result is one
of the most grateful, wholesome, and valuable
beverages. Its color equals that of the finest
claret; and it produces no acidity after drinking,
as many home-made wines do. The berries,
which must be thoroughly ripe, are to be stripped
from the stalk, and squeezed to a pulp. Stir and
squeeze this pulp, once every day for four days;
then separate the juice from the pulp by passing
through a cane sieve or basket; to every gallon
of juice, add half a gallon of cold spring water;
boil nine gallons with six ounces of hops for half
an hour; then strain it, and boil again, with three
pounds of sugar to the gallon, for about ten
minutes, skimming it all the time; pour it into a
cooler, and. while lukewarm, put a piece of
toasted bread with a little harm on it to set it
working ; put it into a cask as soon as cold; when
it has done working, cork it down, and leave it
six months before it is tapped; it is then drink-
able, but improves with age exceedingly.

WINE, To 1935107? when Flat.-—'Add four or
five pounds of sugar, honey, or bruised raisins,
to every hundred gallons, and hung close. A
little spirits may also be added

WIA’E, CIt’APE.——Take two quarts of grape
juice, two quarts of water, four pounds of sugar.
Extract the juice of the grape in any simple way;
if only a few quarts are desired, we do it with a
strainer and a pair of squeezers, if a larger quan-
tity is desired, put the grapes into a cheese press
made particularly clean, utting on sufficient
weight to extract the juice 0 a full hoop of grapes,
being careful that none but perfect grapes are
used, perfectly ripe and free from blemish. After
the first pressing put a little water with the pulp
and press a second time, using the juice of the
second pressing with the water to be mixed with
the clear grape juice. If only a few quarts are
made place the wine as soon as mixed into hot-
tles, filling them even full and allow to stand in a
warm place untill it ferment, which will take
about thirty-six hours usually; then remove all
the scum, cool and put into a dark, cool place.
If a few' gallons are desired place in a keg, but
the keg must be even full, and after fermentation
has taken place and the scum removed, draw off
and bottle, and cork tight.

WINE, GlNGER.—!. Boil together for half
an hour, 7 quarts of water, 6 pounds of sugar,
2 ounces of the best ginger, bruised, and the rind
of three good-sized lemons. When lukewarm

ut the whole into a cask, with the juice of the
emons, and X of a. pound of sun raisins; add
I teaspoonful of new yeast, and stir the wine
every day for ten days.

2. Water, 10 gals. ; lump sugar, 20 lbs.; brui-
sed ginger, 8 oz.; 3 or 4 eggs. Boil well and
skim; then pour hot on six or seven lemons cut
in slized, macerate for two hours; then rack and
ferment; next add spirits, 2 qts.; and afterwards
finings, I pint; rummage well. ‘To make the
color, boil % oz. saleratus, and % oz. alum, in
I pint of water, till you get a brigh red color.

 

3. Take one quart of 95 per cent, alcohol, and
put into it one ounce of best ginger root, (bruis-
ed and not ground,) five grains of capsicum, and
one drachm of tartaric acid. Let stand one week
and filter. Now add one gallon of water, in
which one pound of crushed sugar has been boiled.
Mix when cold. To make the color, boil % oz.
of cochineal, % ounce of cream tartar, % ounce
of saleratus, and % ounce alum in apint of water
till you get a bright red color.

IVINE, GOOSEBERRY. —Pick and bruise
the gooseberries, and to every pound, put aquart
of cold spring water, and let it stand three days,
stirring it twice or thrice a day. Add to every
gallon of juice three pounds of loaf sugar; fill the
barrel, and when it is done working, add to every
twenty quarts of liquor, one quart of brandy, and
a little isinglass. The gooseberries must be
picked when they are just changing color. The
liquor ought to stand in the barrel six months.
Taste it occasionally, and bottle when the sweet-
ness has gone off. -

WINES, 110/111? AIADE. — To secure the
best results whatever fruit is chosen, currant,
gooseberry, elderberry, ctc.. it should be gath-
ered during fair weather, and be fully ri e, but
not over ripe. If not ripe enough it wil make
a harsh wine and will require too much sugar to
save it; if over ripe it will be dull in flavor. Next
it should be picked clear of stems and damaged
or green fruit. Then bruise or mash the fruit
with say an instrument like an ordinary potato
masher. This should be done in a vessel con-
taining a guard, such as a piece of wire sieve,
over the tap hole, so as to keep back husks and
seeds when drawing off theliquor. After mashing
add water in proportions hereafter to be named,
and stir up well the mixture of mashed fruit and
water. Let it stand thirty or forty hours, stirring
every four or five hours. Now draw off the
liquor through the tap hole, and gather the resi-
due into a coarse bag and squeeze the juice out
of it and add to the liquid already drawn off.
The sugar, tartar, etc., are now added in a fine
powder or solution, and the whole well stirred.
If the weather is moderately warm fermentation
soon sets in, which should go on three or four
days before the new made wine is put into the
cask. The bung should be left out, so that the
wine can clear itself. In about a week whatever
flavoring extracts are wanted can be put into the
wine and in about another week the brandy or
clear spirits needed to give it keeping qualities.
The cask is now filled up with wine that has
arived at a similar state of ripeness and banged
tight. After four or five weeks it is tried by
boring a hole about a third from the top of the
heading and a gill or so drawn off to see whether
itis clear. If it is not, bung it up again and let
it rest, or fine it with isinglass as we will explain
by-and-by. If already fine, it maybe carefully
drawn off by a. spigot inserted so as not to drain
the very bottom of the cask. The bottom may be
kept for vinegar, The mashed mass or must of
strongly flavored fruits such as mulberries or
black currants may be boiled, but the flavors of
the delicate kinds are spoiled by boiling. _

The general proportions are: Fruit, our to Six
pounds; soft water, one gallon; sugar, three to
five pounds, according to the sweetness of the
juice (the juice should always be of a positive or
cloying sweetness when the sugar is added);
cream of tartar, one anda quarter ounces; brandy

WINES, LIQUORS AND VINEGAR.

fourth proof, two-thirds of a gill to a gallon of
the wine. If the fruit is sweet, or a full propor-
tion of sugar used, no spirit or brandy will be
needed; enough alcohol will be liberated to pre—
serve the wines. If no brandy is convenient a
quarter of a gill of spirits of wine will do in its

lace, or a gill of bourbon whisky run through a

andful of broken charcoal so as to take out the
whisky flavor.

Every sweet fluid will yield a wine. Beets,
parsnips, turnips, sugar, maple juice, cherry juice,
wortleberry, raspberry, etc., etc. Many pleasant
flavors are made by mixing two or three different
kinds of fruit.

For fining or clearing the wine use a quarter
of a pound of isinglass, dissolved in a portion of
the wine, to a barrel. This must be put in after
fermentation is over, and should be added gently
at the bung hole, and managed so as to spread
as much as possible over the upper surface of the
liquid; the intention being that the isinglass
should unite with impurities and carry them with
it to be bottom.

WINE, LEMON—Sugar, 60 pounds; rais-
ins (bruised), I5 pounds; water, 30 gallons. Boil,
then add cider, I 5 gallons. Ferment, and add
spirit, 3 gallons; white tartar, 12 ounces; essence
of lemon, 2 ounces; finings, I pint. Observe to
shake the essence, with a pint of the spirit, until
it becomes milky, before adding it to the wine.

WINE, MADEIRA. —To 40 gallons pre-
pared cider, add, ‘4 lb. tartaric acid; 4 gallons
spirits; 3 lbs. loa sugar. Let it stand 10 days,
draw it off carefully; fine it down, and again rack
it into another cask.

WINE, MORELLA. -—Take the juice of
Morella or tame cherries, and to each quart put
three quarts of water and four pounds of coarse
brown sugar; let them ferment and skim until
worked clear; then draw off, avoiding the sedi-.
ment at the bottom. Bung up, or bottle, which'
is best for all wines, letting the bottles lie always
on the side, either for wines or beers.

[VIN E, MULBERRY. —— The mulberries
ought to be gathered when they are just turning
from red to black, and when they are quite free
from dew or moisture. When gathered, let them
be spread loose on a cloth or a clean floor, and
let them lie for twenty-four hours. Then, hav-
ing put them into a pro er vessel, squeeze out
the juice, and drain it off mm the seeds. Then
boil a gallon of water for each gallon of juice;
skim the water, and add some cinnamon slightly
bruised. To each gallon add six ounces of white
sugar-candy finely powdered. Skim and strain
when the liquor is settled, and add to it more of
the juice. To every gallon of the liquor add a
pint of white or Rhenish wine. Let it stand to
settle in the cask five or six days, then draw it
off and keep it in a cool lace.

WINE, PARSNIR—Take fifteen pounds of
sliced parsnips, and boil until quite soft in five
gallons of water; squeeze the liquor well out of
them, run it through a sieve, and add three

unds of coarse lump sugar to every gallon of

iquor. Boil the whole for three-quarters of an
hour. When it is nearly cold, add a little yeast
on toast. Let it remain in a tub for ten days,
stirring it from the bottom every day; then put
it into a cask for a year. As it works over, fill
it up eve day.

WIN ., (Peon) To Impraw.—Poor wines
may be unproved by being racked off, and re~

 

337

turned to the cask again; and then putting into
the wine about I lb. of jar or box raisins, bruised,
and I quart of brandy.

Or, put into the wine 2 lbs. of honey, and a
pint or two of brandy. The honey and brandy
to be first mixed together.

Or, draw off 3 or 4 quarts of such wine and
fill the cask up with strong wine.

WINE, (Brim/L) P0!€T.—I. Damson juice,
20 gallons; cider, 20 gallons; sloe juice, I pound;
sugar, Io pounds; honey, to pounds. Ferment,
then add spirit, 3 gallons; red cape, 10 gallons ;
red tartar (dissolved), % pound; powder of
catechu, % pound; bruised ginger, I ounce; cas-
sia, I ounce; cloves, y; ounce. Mix well with
brandy coloring, I pint, and fine with bullock’s
blood.

2. Bullace, 8 pounds; damsons, 40 pounds;
water, 6 gallons. Boil the water, skim it, and
pour it boiling hot on the fruit; let it stand four
or six days at least. During that time bruise
the fruit or squeeze it with your hands. Then
draw or pour it off into a cask, and to every gal~
lon of liquor put two pounds and a half of fine
sugar, or rather more: put some yeast on a slice
of bread (warm) to work it. When done work-
ing, put a little brandy into to the cask and fill it
up. Bung it up close, and let stand six or twelve
months: then bottle it off. The fquantity of bul-‘
lace should be one pound to every ve of damsons. .‘
This wine is nearer in flavour to port than any
other: if made with cold water, it will be equally
as good, but of a different color. '

3. Red cape, 100 gallons: sloe juice. I gallon ;'
honey, 12 pounds; rough cider, 21 gallons;
bruised cochineal, 4 ounces; brandy coloring,
I pint; spirit, 6 gallons; bruised bitter almonds,
% ounce; cloves, % ounce; powered catechu,,
1 pound; red tartar, I pound. Mix well, and.
fine down with bullock’s blood.

4. Cider, 25 gallons; elder juice, 5 gallons“
port wine, 5 gallons; brandy, I gallon; red tar-
tar, 6 ounces; catechu, 2 ounces; finings, I
quart; logwood, I pound. Well mix and bung
close.

WINE, PORK—r. To 40 gals. prepared
cider add 6 gals. good port wine; to quarts wild
grapes, (clusters); % b. bruised rhatany root.
3 oz. tincture o'f kino; 3 lbs. loaf sugar; 2 gals.
spirits. Let this stand ten days; color if too
light, with tincture of rhatany, then rack it of!
and fine it. This should be repeated until the
color is perfect and the liquid clear.

2. Worked cider, 42 gallons; good port wine,
12 gallons; good brandy, 3 gallons; pure spirits,
6 gallons. Mix. Elderberries and sloes, and
the fruit of the black hawes, make a fine purple
color for wines, or use burnt sugar.

WINE, QUINCE.—Quinces (sliced), 12in
number; boil for a quarter of an hour, in water,
I gallon; then add lump-sugar, 2 pounds. Fer-
ment, and add lemon wine, I gallon; spirit, I

pint.

WINE, RA SIN. — Raisins, 5 cwt. ; water,
100 gallons. Put them into acask. Mash for
a fortnight, frequently stirring, and leave the
bung loose until the active fermentation ceases,
then add brandy, 5 gallons. Well mix, and let
it stand till fine. The quantity of raisins and
brandy may be altered to suit.

WINE, RA SPBERR K—Take three pounds
of raisins, wash, clean, and stone them thor-

oughly; boil two gallons of spring water forhalf ,

388

an hour; as soon as it is taken off the fire pour
it into a deep stone jar, and put in the raisins,
with six quarts of raspberries and 2 lbs. of loaf
sugar ; stir it well together, and cover them
closely, and set it in a cool place; stir it twice a
day, then pass it through a sieve; put the liquor
into a close vessel, adding 1 lb. more loaf sugar;
let it stand for a day and night to settle, after
which bottle it, adding a little more sugar.

WINE, RHUEARB.—-To each gal. of juice,
add I gal. of soft water in which 7 lbs. of brown
sugar has been dissolved; fill a keg or a barrel
with this proportion, leaving the bung out, and
keep it filled with sweetened water as it works
over until clear; then bung down or bottle as
you desire.

These stalks will furnish about three-fourths
their weight in juice, or from sixteen hundred to
two thousand gallons of wine to each acre of
well cultivated plants. Fill the barrels and let
them stand until spring, and bottle, as any wine
will be better in glass or stone. '

WIIVE, To Remove Refinery frank—Add a
little catechu or a small quantity of the bruised
berries of the mountain ash.

W'INE, T a make Settle Well.——Take apint
of wheat and boil it in a quart of water till it
bursts and becomes soft; then squeeze through
a linen cloth, and put a pint of the liquor into a
hogshead ot unsettled white wine; stir it well
about, and it will become fine.

WINE, SHEER Y.—To 4o gals. prepared
cider, add 2 gals. spirits ; 3 lbs. of raisins ; 6
gals. good sherry, and % 02. oil bitter almonds,
(dissolved in alcohol.) Let it stand 10 days, and
draw it off carefully; fine it down and again rack
it into another cask.

WINE, LONDON SHERRK—Chopped
raisins, 400 lbs.; soft water, 100 gals.; sugar,
451bs.; white tartar, I 1b.; cider, 16 gals. Let
them stand together in a close vessel one month;
stir frequently. Then add of spirits 8 gals.; wild
cherries, bruised, 8 lbs. Let them stand I month
longer, and fine with isinglass.

WINE, T 0 Restore, when Sour or Sharp.—
1. Fill a bag with leek-seed, or of leaves or
twisters of vine, and put either of them to infuse
in the cask. ,

2. Put a small quantity of powdered charcoal
in the wine, shake it, and after is has remained
still for 4.8 hours decant steadily.

WINE, S T RA WBERR K—Bruised straw-
berries, 12 gals.; cider, Io gals.; water, 7 gals.;
sugar, 25 lbs. Ferment, then add of bruised
orris root, bruised bitter almonds, and bruised
cloves, each % 02.; dissolved red tartar, 6 oz.

WINE, TOMA T0.—Take ripe, fresh toma-
toes, mash very fine, strain through a fine sieve,
sweeten with good sugar to suit the taste, set it
away in an earthen or glass vessel, nearly full,
cover tight, with the exception of a small hole
for the refuse to work off through during its fer-
“tation. When it is done fermenting, it will
become pure and clear. Then bottle, and cork
tight. A little salt improves its flavor; age im-
proves it.

WINE, TURNlR—Take a large number of
turnips, pare and slice them; then place them in
a cider-press, and obtain all the juice you can.
To every gal. of juice add 3 lbs. of lump sugar,
and half a pint of brandy. Pour into a cask, but
do not ' bung until it has done working; then
bung it close for three months, and draw 05' into

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

anqlther cask; when it is fine, bottle, and cork
we .

WINE, UNFERMEN T ED. -- Gather the
grapes when well ripened. Carefully remove all
decayed and unripe berries. Mixed varieties, or
any one of the favorite varieties of grapes may
be used. Press out the juice and boil as long as
any scum rises. Skim carefully from time to
time. Do not boil to exceed an hour. Bottle
while hot, and seal either in glass bottles, jugs,
or air-tight casks. It is fit for use at any time,
but after being opened it must not be allowed to
ferment. Excepting strawberry syrup, this will
be found the most delightful and exhilarating of
all unfermented beverages. It needs no sugar,
and may be reduced when drank.

WINE, T 0 Remove tlze Taste of tile Caré
fram.—Finest oil of olives, I lb. Put it into the
hogshead, bung close, and roll it about, or other-
wise well agitate it, for 3 or 4 hours, then. gib
and allow it to settle. The olive oil will gradu-
ally rise to the top and carry the ill flavor
with it.

WIIVE, T a Flavon—W’hen the vinous fer.
mentation is about half over, the flavoring ingre-
dients are to be put into the vat and well stirred
into the contents. If almonds form a component
part, they are first to be beaten to a paste and
mixed with a pint or two of the must. N utmegs,
cinnamon, ginger, seeds, etc., should, before
they are put into the vat, be reduced to powder,
and mixed with some of the must. '

WINE, To [Vellum—Wine, either in bottle
or wood, will mellow much quicker when only
covered with pieces of bladder well secured,
than with corks or bungs. The bladder allows
the watery particles to escape, but is impervious
to alcohol.

WINE, To Com/mt Wfiz'te z'nz'o Red—Put 4
ounces of turnsole rags into an earthen vessel,
and pour upon them a pint of boiling water;
cover the vessel close, and leave it to cool; strain
off the liquor, which will be of a fine deep red,
inclining to purple. A small portion of this col-
ors a large quantity of wine. This tincture may
.either be made in brandy, or mixed with it, or
else made into a syrup, with sugar, for keeping.

In those countries which do» not produce the
tingeing grape which affordsa blood-red juice,
wherewith the wines of France are often stained,
in defect of this the juice of elderberries is used,
and sometimes logwood is used at Oporto.

W'OOD, To Remove the T arte qfwlzm IVew.
—A new keg, churn, bucket, or other wooden
vessel, will generally communicate a disagree-
able taste to anything that is put into it. To
prevent this inconvenience, first scald the vessel
well with boiling water, letting the water remain
in it till cold; then dissolve some pearlash or
soda in lukewarm water, adding a little lime to
it, and wash the inside of the vessel well with
this solution. Afterwards scald it well with plain
hot water, and rinse it with cold water before
you use it.

WOODEN TAPS AND FAUCETS, To
Prevent Cracking—This is best prevented by
putting the taps and faucets in melting parafline.
and beating them before at a temperature of 212°
F. until bubbles of air cease to escape from the
wood. The whole is then allowed to cool to
about 120° F., when the taps are taken from the
bath and cleaned from the adhering paraffine b)

 

rubbing with a dry coarse piece of cloth.

 

WORKERS IN GLASS.

WORKERS

AMALGAM for MIRRORS—Lead and tin
of each 2 02.; bismuth 2 02.; mercury 4 ounces.
Add the mercury to the rest in a melted state
and removed from the fire ; mix well With an
iron rod. ‘

This amalgam melts at a low heat, and is em-
ployed for silvering the insides of hollow glass
vessels, globes, convex mirrors, etc. The glass
being well cleaned, is carefully warmed, and the
amalgam, rendered fluid by heat, is then poured
in, and the vessel turned round and round, so
that the metal may be brought in contact with
every part of the glass, which it is desxred to
cover. At a certain temperature this amalgam
readily adheres to glass. .

BREAK( To) GLA SS in (my Requzrea'way.
—Dip 5' piece of worsted thread in spirits of tur-
pentine, wrap it round the glass in the direction
required to be broken, and then set fire to the
thread, or apply a red hot wire round the glass,
and if it does not immediately crack, throw cold
water on it while the wire remains hot. By this
means glass that is broken may often be fash-
ioned and rendered useful for a variety of pur-

oscs.
p BOREING HOLES in Glassy—Any hard
steel tool will cut glass with great facility when
kept freely wet with camphor dissolved in tur-

entine. A drill-bow may be used, or even the

and alone. A hole bored may be readily en-
larged by a round file. The ragged edges of
glass vessels may also be thus easily smoothed
by a flat file. Flat window glass can readily be
sawed by a watch spring saw by aid of this solu-
tion. In short, the most brittle glass can be
wrought almost as easily as brass by the use of
cutting tools kept constantly moist with cam-
phorized oil of turpentine.

COLORS, T 0 Paint wit/z upon Glam—The
several sorts of colors, ground in oil for this pur-
pose, may be had at all the color~shops, etc.

Wilden—Flake white, podium.

Blackn—Lampblack, ivory~black.

Ramona—Spanish brown, umber, spruce ochre,
Dutch pink, orpiment.

Elma—Blue bice, Prussian blue.

Redr.—Rose-pink, vermilion, red-lead, Indian-
red, lake Cinnabar.

Yellow/x. —English pink, masticot, English
ochre, Saunders blue, smalt.

Grem:.—Verdigris, terra vert, verditer.

The ultramarine for blue, and the carmine for
red, are rather to be bought in powders, as in
that state they are less apt to dry; and as the
least tint of these will give the picture acast,
mix up what is wanted for present use with a
drop or two of nut-oil upon the pallet with the
pallet-knife.

Then lay a sheet of white pa er on the table,
and taking the picture in the le t hand, with the
turpentine side next you, hold it sloping (the
bottom resting on the white paper), and all out-
iines' and tints of the prints will be seen on the
glass; and nothing remains but to lay on the
colors proper for the different parts, as follows:

As the lights and shades of the picture. open,
lay the lighter colors first on the lighter 'parts of
the print, and the darker over the shaded parts;

 

389

IN GLASS.

and having laid on the brighter colors, it is not
material if the darker sorts are laid a little over
them; for the first color will hide those laid on
afterwards. For example :

Rain—Lay on the first red-lead, and shade
with lake or carmine.

Yellowr.—-The lightest yellow may be laid on
first, and shaded with Dutch pink.

Blues.—-Blue bice, or ultramarine, used for
the lights, may be shaded with indigo.

Gama—Lay on verdigris first, then a mixture
of that and Dutch pink. This green may be
lightened by an addition of Dutch pink.

When any of these are too strong, they may
be lightened, by mixing white with them u on.
the pallet; or darken them as much as required
by mixing them with a deeper shade of the same
color.

The colors must not be laid on too thick; but
if troublesome, thin them before using them,
with a little turpentine oil.

Take care to have a encil for each color, and
never use that which has been used for green,
with any other color without first washing it well
with turpentine oil, as that color is apt to appear
predominant when the colors are dry.

Wash all the pencils, after using, in turpentine
oil.

The glass, when painted, must stand 3 or4
days free from dust before it is framed.

C OLORS for Ground: on Glasr.——-Take iron-
filings and Dutch yellow beads, equal parts. If a
little red cast is wanted, add a little copper filings.
With a steel muller grind these together one.
thick and strong copper plate, or on porphyry.
Then add a little gum arabic, borax, common
salt,'and clear water. Mix these with a little
fluid, and put the composition in a phial for use.

When it is to be used there is nothing to do
but, with a hair pencil, to lay it quite flat on the
design drawn the day before; and having left
this to dry also for another day, with the quill of
a turkey, the nib unsplit, heighten the lights in
the same manner as with crayons on blue paper.
Whenever there are more coats of the above
composition put one upon another, the shade
will naturally be stronger; and when this is fin-
ished, lay the colors for garments and complex-
ions.

COLOR, .LAA’E (For Glass).—Grind the
lake with water impregnated with gum and salt ; i
then make use of it with the brush. The shad-
ing is operated by laying a double, treble, or
more coats of the color, where it is wanted
darker.

COLOR, BLUE PURPLE.—Make a com-
pound of lake and indigo, ground together with
gum and salt water, and use it as directed in the
preceding article.

COLOR, GREEN ——Mix with an prOpor-
tionable quantity of gamboge ground together as
above.

COLOR, YELLOW—Grind gamboge with
salt water only.

CROWN WINDOWGLASS. —Take of
white sand, 60 lbs.; of purified pearlash, 30 lbs. ;
of saltpetre, 15 lbs. ; of borax, 1 lb. ; and of
arsenic, % 1b. ‘

39°

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

This will be very clear and colorless if the in-
gredients be good, and will not be very clear. It
will run with a moderate heat; but if it be desir-
ed to be yet more fusible and soft; % :1 lb. or a
pound more of arsenic may be added.

If the glass should prove yellow, the manganese
must be used as above directed for the looking-

ss.

g CUTTING GLASS—The cutting of glass,
says the Technologist, is an operation so fre-
quently put in practice in the laboratory, that

- any simple method of effecting it is sure to run
the rounds of the press as soon as published.
Almost all the methods in common use are very
old. Of course, for cutting flat glass, such as
window panes, the diamonds is the best agent.
For cutting rounds, or ovals, out of flat glass,
the diamond is the best tool ; and, if the operator
has no diamond, it will always pay to carry the
job to a glazier, rather than waste time and make
a poor job by other and inferior means. When,
however, it is required to cut off a very little
from a circle or oval, the diamond is not avail-
able, except in very skillful hands. In this case,
a pair of pliers, or very dull scissors, in the best
tool, and the cutting is best performed under
water. A little practice will enable the operator
to shape a small round, or oval, with great ra-
pidity, ease, and precision. When bottles or
flasks are to be cut, the diamond is still the best
tool in skillful hands; but ordinary operators will
succeed best with pastiles, or a red hot poker.
We prefer the latter, as being the most easily
obtained, and the most efficient; and we have
never found any difficulty in cutting off broken
flasks so as to make dishes, or to carry a cut
spirally round a long bottle, so as to cut it in the
form of a corkscrew. And, by the way, when
so cut, glass exhibits considerable elasticity, and
the spiral may be elongated like a ringlet. The
process is very simple. The line of the cut
should be marked by chalk, or by pasting a thin
strip of paper alongside of it; then make a file
mark to commence the cut; apply the hot iron,
and a crack will start; and this crack will follow
the iron wherever we choose to lead it.

For drilling holes in glass, a common steel
drill, well made and tempered, is the best tool.
The steel should be worked at a low temperature,
so as to be sure not to burn it, and then tem-
pered as hard as possible, in either mercury or
a bath of salt water that has been well boiled.
Such a drill will go through glass very rapidly,
if kept well moistened. A good liquid for moist-
ening such drills is turpentine in which some
camphor has been dissolved. This was the lu-
bricator recommended by Griffin in his work on
chemical manipulation, and it has been frequent-
ly published since. Dilute sulphuric acid is
equally good, if not better; and we have found
carbolic acid singularly efficient.

DRA WING on GLASS—Grind lampblack
with gum-water and some common salt. With a
pen or hair-pencil, draw the design on the glass,
and afterwards shade and paint as already given
elsewhere.

ENGRA VINGS, To Tramfer on Glam.—
Metallic colors prepared and mixed with fat oil,
are applied to the stamp on the engraved plate.
Wipe with the hand in the manner of the printers
of colored plates; take a proof on a sheet of
silver paper, which is immediately transferred on
the tablet of glass destined to be painted, being

 

careful to turn the colored side against the glass;
it adheres to it, and as soon as the copy is quite
dry, take off the superfluous paper by washing it
with a sponge; there will remain only the color
transferred to the glass; it is fixed by passing
the glass through the ovens.

E T CHIN G on GIarr.—Druggist bottles, bar-
tumblers, signs, and glassware of every descrip-
tion, can be lettered in a beautiful style of art, by
simply giving the article to be engraved, or
etched, a thin coat of the engraver’s varnish,
and the application of fluoric acid. Before
doing so, the glass must be thoroughly clean-
ed and heated, so that it can hardly be held.
The varnish is then to be applied lightly over,
and made smooth by dabbing it with a small ball
of silk, filled with cotton. When dry and ever,
the lines may be traced on it by a sharp steel,
cutting clear through the varnish to the glass.
The varnish must be removed clean from each
letter, otherwise it will be an imperfect job.
When all is ready, pour on or apply the fluoric
acid with a feather, filling each letter. Let it re.
main until it etches to the required depth, then
wash off with water, and remove the varnish.

FLINT-GLASS. —- Take of white sand, 120
lbs. ; red-lead, 50 lbs. ; the best pearlash, 40 lbs.;
nitre, 201bs.; manganese, 5 02.

If the composition be fused with a very strong
fire, and time be given to it, a glass will be pro-
duced that will have the play of the best flint.
glass, and yet be hard and strong. It is not so
cheap as other compositions, where arsenic
or common salt is introduced, or where more
of the pearlash are used; in either of which
eases, savings may be made by diminishing pro-
portionably the quantitie of nitre. But the qual-
ities of this glass will be found to come nearer to
the standard of perfection, which is to unite the
lustre and hardness together in the greatest de-
gree they are compatible with each other.

FRIT, To Make. — Frit, in the glass manu-
facture, is the matter or ingredients of wich glass
is to be made, when they have been calcined or
baked in a furnace. There are three kinds of
frit: the first, crystal frit, or that for crystal or
clear glass, is made with salt of pulverine and
sand. The second and ordinary frit is made of
the bare ashes of the pulverine or barilla, with-
out extracting the salt from them. This makes
the ordinary white or crystal-glass. The third
is frit for green glasses, made of common ashes,
without any preparation. This last frit will re-
quire 10 or 12 hours baking. The materials in
each are to be finely powdered, washed and
searced; then equally mixed, and frequently stir~
red together in the melting-pot.

GILD, ( To) Glass andPorceIain.— Drinking
and other glasses are sometimes gilt on their
edges. This is done, either by an adhesive var-
nish, or by heat. The prepared by dissolving in
boiled linseed—oil an equal wei ht either of copal
or amber. This is to be di uted by a proper
quantity of oil of turpentine, so as to be applied
as thin as possible to the parts of the glass in-
tended to be gilt. When this is done, which will
be in about 24 hours, the glass is to be placed in
a stove, till it is so warm almost to burn the
fingers when handled. At this temperature the
varnish will become adhesive, and a piece of
leafgold, applied in the usual way, will immedi-
ately stick. Sweep off the superfluous portions
of the leaf; and when quite cold it may be burn-

WORKERS IN GLASS.

Sshed, taking clear to interpose a piece of very
thin paper (Indian paper) between the gold and
the burnisher. If the varnish is very cold, this
is the best method of gilding glass, as the gold
is thus fixed on more evenly than in any other

wa .

gLASSfbr LOOKING-GLASS PLA TES.
—I. Take of white sand, cleansed, 60 lbs.; of
purified pearlash, 25 lbs.; of saltpetre, 15 lbs.;
and of borax, 7 lbs.

This composition should be continued long in
the fire, which should be for some time strong,
and afterwards more moderate, that the glass
may be entirely free from bubbles before it is
working. It will be entirely clear of all color,
unlessin case of some accident ; but if any yellow
tinge should, nevertheless unfortunately infect it,
there is no remedy except by adding a small
proportion of manganese, which should be mixed
with an e ual quantity of arsenic, and after their
being put into the glass, giving it a considerable
heat again, and then suffering it to free itself from
bubbles in a more moderate one, as before. If
the tinge be slight, an ounce of manganese may
be first tried, and if that prove insufficient, the

uantity must be increased, but the glass will
ways he obscure in proportion to the quantity
that is admitted.

2. Take of the white sand, 60 lbs.; of pearlash,
20 lbs.; of common salt, to lbs. ; of nitre, 7 lbs. ;
and of borax, I 1b.

This glass will run with a little heat as the
former, but it will be more‘brittle and refract the
rays of the light in a greater degree.

GREEN BOTTLE- GLASS.—- I. Take of
wood-ashes, 2001bs.; and of sand, 100 lbs. Mix
them thoroughly by grinding together.

This is the due proportion where the sand is
good and the wood-ashes are used without any
other addition.

2. Take of wood-ashes, I70 lbs.; of sand, 100
lbs.; and of scoria, or clinkers, 50 lbs. Mix the
whole well by grinding them together.

The clinkers should be well ground before they
are used, if they admit of it; but frequently they
are too hard, and in that case they should be
broken into as small bits as can be done conveni-
ently and mixed with the other matter without
any grinding. The harder they are, the less
material will be the powdering of them as they
will the sooner melt of themselves in the furnace,
and consequently mix with the other ingredients.

GREEN PHIA L- GL4 SS ( Common ).—Take
of the cheapest kind of white sand, 120 lbs.; of
wood-ashes, well burnt and sifted, 80 lbs.; of
pearlash, 201bs.; of common salt, I 5 lbs.; and of
arsenic, 1 lb

This will be green, but tolerably transparent
and will work with a moderate fire, and vitrify
quickly with a strong one.

GREEN WINDOI/V-GLASS.—- I. Take of
white sand 60 lbs.; of unpurified pearlash, 30 lbs.;
of common salt, 10 lbs. ; of arsenic, zlbs.; and of
manganesez oz. This is a cheap composition and
will not appear too green nor be very deficient
m transparency.

2. Take of the cheapest kind of white sand,
120 lbs. ; of unpurified pearlash, 30 lbs. ; of wood-
ashes, well burnt and sifted, 60 lbs., of common
salt, 20 lbs.; and of arsenic, 5 lbs. This compo-
srtion is very cheap, and will produce a good
glass with a greenish cast.

LUTES.—-Lutcs are compositions which are

 

39I

employed to deferid glass and other vessels, from
the action of fire, or to fill up the vacancies which
occur, when separate tubes, for the necks of
different vessels, are inserted into each other
during the process of distillation. Those lutes
which are exposed to the action of fire, are usu-
ally called fire-lutes.

For a very excellent fire-lute, which will enable
glass vessels to sustain an incredible degree of
heat, take fragments of porcelain, pulverise and
sift them tell, and add an equal quantity of fine
clay, previously softened with as much of a
saturated solution of muriate of soda, as is requi-
site to give the whole a proper consistence.
Apply a thin and uniform coat of this composition
to the glass vessels, and allow it to dry slowly
before they are put in on the fire.

Equal parts of coarse and refractory clay
mixed with a little hair, form a good lute.

Fat earth, beaten up with fresh horse-dung,
Chaptal recommends as an excellent fire-lute,
which he generally used, and the adhesion of
which was such, that after the retort had cracked,
the distillation could be carried on and regularly
finished.

Lutes for the joining of such vessels as retorts
and receivers, are varied according to the nature
of the vapors which will act against them, in
order not to employa more expensive and trouble.
some composition than the case requires. F or
resisting watery vapors, slips of wet bladder, or
slips of wet paper or linen, covered with stiff
flour aste, may be bound over the juncture.

A c oser and neater lute for more penetrating
vapors, is composed of whites of eggs made
into a smooth aste with quick-lime, and ap lied
upon strips of inen. The quick-lime shou d be
previously slacked in the air, and reduced to a.
fine powder. The cement should be applied the
moment it is made; it soon dries, becomes very
firm; and is in chemical experiments one of the
most useful cements known.

Where saline, acrid vapors are to be resisted,
alute should be composed of boiled linseed oil
intimately mixed with clay, which has been pre-
viously dried, finely powdered, and sifted. This
is called fat lute. It is applied to the junctures,
as the undermost layers, and is secured in its
place by the white of egg lute last mentioned,
which is tied on with packthread.

MANUFACTURE OF GLASS. —— Glass is
a combination of sand, flint, spar, or some other
silicious substance, with one or other of the fixed
alkalies, and in some cases with a metalic oxide.
Of the alkalies, soda is commonly prefered ; and
of the silicious substances, white sand'is most
in repute, as it requires no preparation for coarse
goods, while more washing in water is sufficient
for those of a finer quality. The metallic oxid
usually emplo ed, is litharge, or some other
preperation of ead. Iron is used in bottle glass.

The silicious matter should be fused in contact
with something called a flux. The substances
proper for this purpose are lead, borax, arsenic,
nitre or any alkaline matter. The lead is used
in the state of red-lead; and the alkalies are
soda, pearlash, seasalt, and wood-ashes. When
red-lead is used alone, it gives the glass a yellow
cast, and requires the addition of nitre to correct
it. Arsenic, in the same manner, if used in
excess, is apt to render the glass milky. For
aperfectly transparent glass, the pearlash is found
much superior to lead; perhaps better than any“

gfirfizfi ._

392 DICT{01VAR Y OFEVERKDA Y, WANTS.

 

other flux, except it be borax, which is too ex-
pensive to be used, except for experiments, or
for the best looking-glasses.

The materials for making glass must first be
reduced to powder, which is done in mortars or
by horse mills. After sifting out the coarse parts,
the proper proportions of silex and flux are mix-
ed together, and put into the calcining furnace,
where they are kept in a moderate heat for 5 or
6 hours, being frequently stirred about during
the process. When taken out the wager is called
frit. Frit is easily converted into glass by only
pounding it, and vitrifying it in the melting pots
of the glass furnace; but in making fine glass, it
will sometimes require a small addition of flux to
the frit to correct any fault. For, as the flux is
the mOSt expensive article, the manufacturer will
rather put too little at first than otherwise, as he
can remedy this defect in the melting pot. The
heat in the furnace must be kept up until the
glass is brought to a state of perfect fusion ; and
during this process any scum which arises must

be removed by ladles. When the glass is per-'

fectly melted, the glass-blowers commence their
operations.

For the best flint-glass, 120 lbs. of white sand,
50 lbs. of red-lead, 40 lbs. of the best pearlash,
20 lbs. of nitre, and 5 oz. of manganese ; if a
pound or two of arsenic be added, the composi-
tion will fuse much quicker, and with alower
temperature.

For a cheaper flint-glass, take 120 lbs. of white
sand, 35 lbs. of pearlash, 40 lbs. of red-lead, 13
lbs. of nitre, 6 lbs. of arsenic, and 4 oz. of mag-
nesia.

This requires a long heating to make clear
glass, and the heat should be brought on gradu-
ally, or the arsenic is in danger of subliming be-
fore the fusion commences. A still cheaper
composition is made by omitting the arsenic in
the foregoing, and substituting common sea-
salt.

F or the best German crystal-glass, take 120
lbs. of calcined flints or white sand, the best
pearlash, 70 lbs.; saltpetre, Io lbs.; arsenic,
% 1b.; and 5 oz. of manganese. Or, a cheaper
composition for the same purpose is 120 lbs. of
sand or flints, 46 lbs. of pearlash, 7 lbs. of nitre,
6 lbs. of arsenic, and 5 oz. of manganese. This
will require a long continuance in the furnace;
as do all others where much of the arsenic is
employed.

For looking-glass plates, washed white sand,
60 lbs. ; purified pearlash, 25 lbs. ; nitre, Islbs.;
and 7 lbs. of borax. If properly managed, this
glass will be colorless. But if it should be ting-
ed by accident, a trifling quantity of arsenic, and
an equal quantity of manganese, will correct it;
an ounce of each may be tried first, and the
quantity increased if necessary.

The ingredients for the best crown-glass must
be prepared in the same manner as for looking-

lasses, and mixed in the following proportions:
go lbs. of white sand, 30 lbs. of pearlash, and 15
lbs. of nitre, I lb. of borax, and % lb. of arsenic.

The composition for common green window-
glass is, I20 lbs. of white sand, 30 lbs. of un—
purified pearlash; wood-ashes, well burnt and
sifted, 60 1b.; common salt, 20 lbs.; and 5 lbs.
of arsenic.

Common green bottle-glass is made from 200
lbs. of wood-ashes, and 100 lbs. of sand; or 170
lbs. of ashes, 100 lbs. of sand, and 50 lbs. of the

 

slag of an iron furnace; these materials must be
well mixed.

The materials employed iu the manufacture of
glass, are by chemists reduced to three classes, .
namely, alkalies, earths, and metallic oxides.

The fixed alkalies may be employed indiffer-
ently; but soda is preferred in this country. The
soda of commerce is usually mixed with common
salt, and combined with carbonic acid. It is pro-
per to purify it from both of these foreign bodies
before using it. This, however, is seldom done.

The earths are silica (the basis of flints), lime,
and sometimes a little alumina (the basis of clay).
Silica constitutes the basis of glass. It is em-
ployed in the state of fine sand or flints ; and
sometimes for making very fine glass, rock crys-
tal is employed. When sand is used, it ought,
if ossible, to be perfectly white, for when it is
co ored with metallic oxides, the transparency of
the glass is injured. Such sand can only be
employed for very coarse glasses. It is neces-
sary to free the sand from all the loose earthy
particles with which it may be mixed, which is
done by washing it well with water.

Lime renders glass less brittle, and enables it
to withstand better the action of the atmosphere.
It ought in no case to exceed the 20th part of the
silica employed, otherwise it corrodes the glass
pots. This indeed may be prevented by throw-
ing a little clay into the melted glass; but in that
case a green glass only is obtained.

The metallic oxides employed are the red oxide
of lead or litharge, and the white oxide of arsenic.
The red oxide of lead, when added in sufficient
quantity, enters into fusion with silica, and forms
a milky hue like the dial-plate of a watch. When
any combustible body is present, it is usual, in
some manufactories, to add a little white oxide
of arsenic. This supplying oxygen, the cumbus«
tible is burnt, and flies off, while the revived ar-
senic is at the'same time volatized.

There are several kinds of glass adapted to dif-
ferent uses. The best and most beautiful are
the flint and the plate-glass. These, when well
made, are perfectly transparent and colorless,
heavy and brilliant. They are composed of fixed
alkali, pure silicious sand, calcined flints and
litharge, in different proportions. The flint glass
contains a large quantity of oxide of lead, which
by certain processes is easily separated. The
plate glass is poured in the melted state upon a
table covered with copper. The plate is cast %
an inch thick or more, and is ground down to a
proper degree of thickness, and then polished.

Crown-glass, that used for windows, is made
without lead, chiefly of fixed alkali fused with
silicious sand, to which is added some black oxide
of manganese, which is apt to give the glass :1
tinge of purple.

Bottle-glass is the coarsest and cheapest kind,
in this little or no fixed alkali enters the com-
position. It consists of alkalide earth and oxide
of iron combined with alumina and silica. In
this country it is composed of sand and the refuse
of the soap-boiler, which consists of the lime em-
ployed in rendering this alkali caustic, and of the
earthy matters with which the alkali was con-
taminated. The most fusible is flint-glass, and
the least fusible is bottle-glass.

[MARBLE (T o) a 'Gloée Glam—Grind well
on a stone, minium for red, turmeric, or rather
cerussa citrina, for yellow, smalt for blue, verd-
igris {or green, ceruse, or chalk, for white. Work

WORKERS IN GLASS.

each in oil separate, and with a hog’s hair pencil,
single or mixed, as you think fit, scatter the same
into the glass, and roll it, or dispose the colors,
,. as you like. Then, last of all, fling a little mead
‘ amongst them, which covers all. . For the Magic
Lanthorn, paint the glasses With transparent
colors, tempered with oil of spike.

PACKING Glam or Clzz'mz. — Procure some
soft straw or hay to pack them in, and, if they
are to be sent a long way and are heavy, the hay
or straw should be a little damp, which will pre-
vent them slipping about. Let the largest and
heaviest things be always put undermost 1n the
box or hamper. Let there be plenty of straw,
and pack the articles tight; but never attempt to
pack up glass or China which is of much conse-
quence, till it has been overlooked by some one
used to the job. The expense will be but trifling
to have aperson to do it who understands 1t, and
the loss may be great, it articles of much value
are packed up in an improper manner.

PAIN? (To) and STAIN Glass and Por-
celain.——- I. To paint upon glass is an art which
has generally appeared difficult; yet there Is no
representation more elegant than that of a meZzo-
tinto painted in this manner, for it gives all the
softness that can be desired in a picture, and is
easy to work, as there are no outlines to draw,
nor any shades to make.

The prints are those done in mezzotinto; for
"-elr shades being rubbed down on the glass, the
several lines, which represent the shady part of
any common print, are by this means blended
together, and appear as soft and united as in any

.- awing of Indian-ink.

Provide such mezzotintos as are wanted; cut
the margin; then get a piece of fine crown-glass,
the size of the print, and as flat and free from
knots and scratches as possible; clean the glass
and lay some Venice turpentine, quite thin and
smooth, on one side, with a brush of hog’s hair.
Lay the print flat in water, and let it remain on
the surface till it sinks, it is then damp enough;
take it carefully out, and dab it between some

apers, that no water may be seen, yet so as to
damp.

Next lay the damp print with its face upper-
most u on a flat table; then hold the glass over
it, wit out touching the turpentine, till it is
exactly even with the print, let it fall gently on
it. Press the glass down carefully with the
fingers in several parts, so that the turpentine
may stick to the print; after which take it up,
then holding the glass towards you, press the
prints with the fingers, from the centre towards
the edges, till no blisters remain.

When this is done, wet the back of the paint
with a sponge, till the paper will rub off with the
fingers; then rub it gently, and the white paper
will roll off, leaving the impression only upon the
glass; then let it dry, and, with a camel’s hair
pencil, dipped in oil of turpentine, wet it all over,
and it will be perfectly transparent, and fit for
painting.

2. The first thing to be done, in order to paint,
or stain glass in the modern way, is to design,
and even color the whole subject on paper. Then
choose such. pieces of glass as are clean, even,
and smooth, and proper to receive the several
parts. Proceed to distribute the design itself, or
the paper it is drawn on, into pieces suitable to
those of the glass; always taking care that the
glasses may join in the contours of the figures,

 

393

and the folds of the draperies; that the carnations
and other finer parts may not be impaired by the
lead with which the pieces are to be joined to-
gether. The distribution being made, mark all
the glasses, as well as papers, that they may be
known again; which done, apply every part 'of
the design 11 on the glass intended for it ; and
copy or trans er the design upon the glass with
the black color diluted in gum-water, by tracing
and following all the lines and strokes that appear
through the glass, with the point of a pencil.

When these strokes are well dried, which will
be in about 2 days (the work being only in black
and white), give it a slight wash over with urine,
gum-arabic, and a little black; and repeat this
several times, according as the shades are desired
to be heightened, with this recaution, never to
apply a new wash till the ormer is sufficiently
dried. This done, the lights and risings are
given by rubbing ofl the color in the respective
places with a wooden point, or by the handle of
the pencil.

The colors are used with gum-water, the same
as in painting in miniature, taking care to apply
them lightly, for fear of effacing the outlines of
the design; or even, for the greater security, to
apply them on the other side; especially yellow,
which is very pernicious to the other colors, by
blending therewith. And here too, as in pieces
of black and white, particular regard must always
be had not to lay color on color, till such time
as the former is well dried.

When the painting of all the pieces is finished,
they are carried to the furnace to anneal, or to
bake the colors.

PHI/1 L—GLA SS (Bert).——Take of white sand,
120 lbs.; of unpurified pearlash, 50 lbs.; of com-
mon salt, 10 lbs.; of arsenic, 5 lbs. ; and of man-1
ganese, 5 oz.

This will be a very good glass for the purpose
and will work with a modérate heat, but requires
time to become clear, on account of the proportion
of arsenic; when, however, it is once in good
condition, it will come very near to the crystal

lass.

PRIrVCE RUPER T’S DROPS. Prince
Rupert’s drops are made by letting drops of melt-
ed glass fall into cold water; the drops assumed
by that means an oval form, with a tail or neck
resembling a retort. They possess this singular
property, that if a small portion of the tail is
broken oil, the whole bursts into powder, with
an explosion, and a considerable shock is commu-
nicated to the hand that grasps it.

POLISHING and GRIZVDIN G GIar:.-—- To
grind plate-glass, lay it horizontally upon a flat
stone table, made of a very fine grained free-
stone; and for its greater security, plaster it down
with mortar or stucco. The stone table is sup-
ported by a strong wooden frame, with a ledge
all round its edges, rising about 2 inches above
the glass. Upon the plate to be ground is laid
another rough glass, not above half as big, and
so loose as to slide upon the former ; but cement-
ed to awooden plank, to guard it from the injury
it must otherwise receive from the scraping of the
wheel whereto the plank is fastened, and from
the weights laid upon it to promote the triture
or grinding of the glasses. The whole is covered
with a wheel made of hard light wood, about 6
inches in diameter by pulling of which backwards
and forwards alternately, and sometimes turning
it round, the workmen, who always stand

394.

DICTIONARY 01' EVER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

opposite to each other, produce a constant attri-
tion between the two glasses, and bring them to
whatever degree of smoothness they please, by
first pouring in water and coarse sand ; after that,
a finer sort of sand, as the work advances, till at
last they pour in the powder of smalt. As the
upper or imcumbent glass becomes smooth, it
must be removed, and another, from time to time,
substituted to it.

The engine just described is called a mill by
the workmen, and is employed only in grinding
the largest-sized glasses. In grinding lesser
glasses, they usualy work without awheel, having
four wooden handles fastened to the corners of
the stone that loads the upper plank, by which
they work it about. The grinder’s part done, the

lass is turned over to the polisher, who, with

e powder of tripoli stone or emery, brings it to
a perfect evenness and lustre. The instrument
made use off in this branch, is a board furnished
with a felt and small roller, which the workman
moves by means of a double handle at both ends.
The artist in working this roller, is assisted by a
wooden hoop or spring, to the end of which it is
fixed; for the spring, by constantly bringing the
roller back to the same points, facilitates the
action of the workman’s arm.

SIL VERIN G GLA S S .——The various methods
invented by Liebig, Bothe, Boettger, and others
for depositing silver upon glass have been con-
siderabley modified and improved by Krippendorf,
in Switzerland, and we give below a condensed
statement of the latest improvements introduced
by him. The following are the labels required
for the materials to be used in silvering glass:
, I. Seignette salts; that is tartrate of soda and
potash.

2. Solution of seignette salts in the proportion
of one gramme to fifty grammes of distilled water.
3. Caustic ammonia, fifty cubic centimeters.

4. Solution of nitrate of silver, I '8

5. A flask of 1,000 cubic centimeters capacity
for the reducing liquid.

6. A second flask of same size for the silvering
solution.

With .he help of the above chemicals and
flasks, the two normal solutions, viz.: (x) the
reducing liquid; (2) the silvering liquid can be
prepared in the flasks (5 and 6).

I. The normal reducing solution: 900 cubic
centimeters (grammes) distilled water are mixed
with ninety cubic centimeters seignette salts
solution (2) and the mixture brought to boiling
over a suitable fire. During the boiling of the

,liquid, by which considerable steam is evolved,
twenty cubic centimeters of the nitrate of silver
'solution are added from N0. 4, by which the
whole liquid is blackened. The whole is allowed
to boil for ten minutes until the so called oxytar-
trate of silver is formed, when the reducing
liquid is ready for use. This normal liquid can
be preserved anylength of time; in fact, it seems
to improve by age. It can be kept in flasks, and
when required for use must be carefully filtered.
Experience has shown that it is better to prepare
the normal reducing liquid in a flask rather than
in a capsule.

2. The normal silvering liquid: Nitrate of silver
is dissolved in water, and ammonia gradually
added until the brown preci itate is nearly all
dissolved, then filtered, and diluted until there is
one gramme of nitrate of silver in 100 cubic
entimeters of the liquid. For those who are not

 

chemists, it is as well to take 900 cubic centi-
meters distilled water, add eighty cubic centi-
meters of the silver solution from No. 4 (1'8)
and afterwards loo drops caustic ammonia from

. 3.

3. The silvering process: Equal volumes oi
the liquids (I) and (2) are carefully and separately
filtered and afterwards poured together into a
vessel of the proper size, and the well cleaned
glass plate introduced. In about ten minutes a
decomposition of the mixture begins to take place,
indicated by a blackening of the surface, and ure
metallic silver will be deposited upon the p ate.
The introduction of the plate and the cleaning of
it take place precisely as in photographic opera-
tions, otherwise irregular lines and unequal
deposits of silver result. Gentle heat and sunlight
facilitate the operation, while cold and darkness
retard it. Finally the plate is removed from the
vessel, rinsed with pure water, and varnished or
otherwise protected by a background. Good
photographic varnish can be recommended for
coating the film. For bath, after the operation,
contains fifty to sixty per cent of the original
silver, which can be reclaimed as chloride by the
addition of hydrochloric acid. Hollow ware,
reagent bottles, and test tubes are silvered by
simply pouring in the solutions ( I) and (2) in the
some way as described above. The silvering the
interior of large flasks, it is well to introduce a
small quantity of the liquid at first, and to turn
it rapidly around until the surface is covered
with a thin deposit. Treated in this way, the
operation becomes a very simple one, and may
lead to the introduction of silver mirrors as sub-
stitutes for quicksilver glasses for very many
purposes.

SIZING for G OLD on Glam—Rub up copal
varnish either with white hole, umber, or ochre,
all of which must be perfectly dry, and then strain
through a cloth. The glass must then be clean-
sed with fine chalk, painted over with the varnish,
placed in a warm room, and protected from dust.
When it is sufficiently dry, the leaf is to be
applied and pressed down with cotton.

SOLUBLE GLASS, To Prepare. — This ar-
ticle of commerce, which has come into extensive
use for a great variety of purposes, is very easily
prepared when once the process is known.

Potash soluble glass is obtained by mixing [5
parts powdered quartz or pure sand with 10 parts
of purified pearlashes, and 1 quart of charcoal,
in a Hessian crucible, and exposing the mixture
to such a heat as that the mass after six hours -
shall have become vitrified.‘ Charcoal is em loyed
for assisting, by its decomposition, thepro notion
of carbonic acid, as also some sulphuric acid,
which may have been produced. It is at present,
however, omitted ; and if the glass is manufac-
tured on a large scale, the vitrification is done in
a reverberatory furnace capable of holding from
1200 to I 500 pounds. The ashes and sand must
be well mixed together for some time, the furnace
must be very hotbefore throwing the mixture in,
and the heat must be constantly kept up until the
entire mass is in a liquid condition. The material
is then raked out and thrown upon a stone hearth,
and left to cool. The glass mass so obtained is
hard and blistery, of blackish-gray color; and if
the ashes were not pure, it will also be adulterated
with foreign salts. By pulverizing and exposmg
it to the air, it will absorb acidity, and by degrees
the foreign salts will, after frequent agitation and

WORKERS IN GLASS. 395

stirring, be completely separated, particularly
after pouring over the mass some cold water,
which dissolves them, but not the soluble glass.

The purified mass is now put into an iron cal-
dron, containing five times its quantity of hot
water, in small portions, and with constant agi-
tation and replacing occasionally hot water for
that which evaporates during the boiling; after
five or six hours the whole is dissolved; the
liquid is then removed and left to settle over
night, in order to be able to separate any unde-
composed silex. The next day it is evaporated
still further until it has assumed the consistency
of a syrup, and standing 28° B., and is com-
posed of 28 per cent. of potash, 62 per cent. of
silica, and 12 er cent. 0 water. It has an al-
kaline taste, is soluble in all proportions of
water, and is precipitated by alcohol; if any
' salts should effervesce, they may be wiped off.
The color is not quite white, but has a greenish
or yellowish white tinge.

To make soda soluble glass,to 45 parts of Silica
or white river sand are added 23 parts of carbon-
ate of soda fully calcined, and 3 parts of char-
coal. This is treated in the same manner as the
other glass. The proportions of the mixture are
altered by different manufacturers; some pro-
pose to use 100 parts silex, 60 parts anhydrous
Glauber salts, and 15 to 20 parts of charcoal.
By the addition of some copper scales to the
mixture the sulphur will be separated. Another
method is proposed by dissolving the fine silex
in caustic soda lye. Kuhlman employs the pow-
dered flint, which is dissolved in an iron caldron
under a pressure from 7 to 8 atmospheres.

Liebig has recommended infusorial earth in
place of sand, on account of its being readily
soluble in caustic lye; and he proposes to use
120 parts of the earth to 75 parts of caustic soda,
- from which 240 parts of silica-jelly may be ob-
tained. His mode is to calcine the earth so as
to become white, and passing it through a sieve.
The lye he prepares from 75 ounces of calcined
soda, dissolved in five times the quantity of boil-
ing water, and then treated by 56 ounces of dry
slacked lime; this lye is concentrated by boil-
ing down to 48° B.; in this boiling lye 120
ounces of the prepared infusorial earth are added
by degrees, which are readily dissolved, leaving
scarcely any sediment. It has then to undergo
several operations for making it suitable for use,
such as treating again with lime-water, boiling it
and separating any precipitate, which by con-
tinued boiling forms into balls, and which can
then be removed from the liquid. This clear
liquid is then evaporated to the consistency of
syrup; it forms a jelly slightly colored, feels dry
and not sticky, and is readily soluble in boiling
water.

The difference between potash and soda sol-
uble glass is not material; the first may be pre-
ferred in whitewashing with plaster of Paris,
while the soda glass is more fluidly divisible.

It may be observed that, before applying
either soluble glass, it ought to be exposed to
the air for ten or twelve days, in order to allow
the efflorescence of any excess of alkali which
might act injuriously.

Double soluble glass is compound of potash
and soda, and is prepared from 100 parts of
quartz, 28 parts of purified pearlashes, 22 parts
of anhydrous bicarbonate of soda, and 6 parts of
charcoal, which are spread in the manner al-

 

w- ..
ready described. If the mass is fuily eva or.
ated to dryness, it forms a vitrious solid g ass,
which cannot be scratched by steel, has a con-
choidal fracture, is of a sea-green color, is trans.
lucent and even transparent, has a specific grav.
ity of 1.43.

Soluble glass for the use of stereo-chromic
painting is obtained by fusing 3 parts of ure
carbonate of soda and 2 parts of pow ered
quartz, from which a concentrated solution is
prepared, 1 part of which is then added to 4
parts of a concentrated and fully saturated solu-
tion of potash-glass solution, by which there is
a more condensed amount of silica with the
alkalies; this solution has been found to work
well for paint. Siemens’s patent for the manu-
facture of soluble glass consists in the produc-
tion of a liquid quartz by digesting the sand or
quartz in a steam-boiler tightly closed and at a
temperature corresponding to 4-5 atmospheres,
with the common caustic alkalies, which are in
this way capacitated to dissolve from three to four
times the weight of silica to a thin liquid. The
apparatus, which was patented in 1845, is well
known in this country, as some persons, many
years later, obtained _a patent for the same pur-
pose in the United States, which, on ins ection,
does not appear to differ from that of ‘iemens
Brothers. .

The latter is the true method of making soluble
glass; in fact, the only process by which it ought
to be made, and we believe the only way in which
at present it‘ is produced by those who pretend
to manufacture a serviceable article.

When made in the old way, by simply boil-
ing, at about 212° F ahr., or slightly above that
temperature, the water is unable to dissolve a
glass containing more than about 60 parts silex,
as the remaining 10 parts of potash or 30 of
soda are necessary to render it soluble. When,
however, a close boiler is used, according to
Kuhlman’s method, and a pressure of 7 or 8
atmospheres, which corresponds with a temper-
ature of some 120° above the boiling point of
water, the solvent qualities of the latter are in-
creased to such an extent as to enable it to dis-
solve a glass containing half and one third the
amount of potash or soda.

Experience has taught that the soluble glass
made in the old way, with an excess of alkali,
can not stand the influence of the atmosphere
when used as a paint. The soda washes out,
and leaves the silex in a pulverized condition, so
that it soon disappears. In this way the re-
putation of soluble glass has suffered consider-
ably, before chemistry had taught to produce a
better article. Now, however, that by means of
heat and pressure we are able to dissolve a glass
containing so little soda that the particles
appear protected or enveloped by the silica, the
atmospheric influences do not affect these, for it
is itself a paint, varnish, or rather glazing, and a
useful addition to common oil paint. It enters
in the chemical paint, already described, and
gives it the glossy appearance.

An object painted with soluble glass which
was prepared by simple boiling is only slightly
affected by cold water, but strongly by boiling
water. When prepared under pressure and a
heat ofsome 330 °, from a compound containing
the least possible amount of alkali, it is un-
affected by cold water, and the object painted or
covered by the same can only be deprived of its

395

coating by undergoing the same heat and pressure
as was required to prepare the original solution.

These remarks will show the great value of
soluble glass, when prepared after the improved
method, as compared to the less value, or rather
inutility, of that pre ared after the old method,
at least in cases w ere it is used for paint or
varnish.

The most extensive use which is made at
present of soluble glass, produced after the old
method, is for the adulteration of soap; in fact,
such apreparation is a kind of soap, in which
the expensive fatty acids are replaced by the
cheap silicic acid or sand; but it is a bad soap,
very caustic, as the silicic acid but very imper-
fectly neutralizes the alkali; consequently all
soaps adulterated in this way are very injurious
for the skin, and for fine textures. -

In several European countries, a penalty of
heavy fines is imposed on its manufacture, being
considered as an injurious adulteration of an
article of prime necessity, of which the purity
ought to be protected, and the universal appli-
cation encouraged as much as possible.

SOLUBLE GLA SS for FLOORS. — Instead
of the old—fashioned method of using wax for
polishing floors, soluble glass is now employed
to great advantage. For this purpose the floor
is first well cleaned, and then the cracks filled up
with a cement of watenglass and powdered chalk
or gypsum; afterward a water—glass of sixty to
sixty-five degrees, of the thickness of syrup, is
ap lied by means of a stiff brush. Any desired
co or is to be imparted to the floor in a second
coat of the water-glass, and additional coats are
to be given until the requisite polish is obtained.
A still higher finish may be given by pumicating
off the lost layer, and then putting on a coating

of Oil.

S T A ININ G GLA SS .—This beautiful branch
of the art is quite too much neglected. The
gorgeous display that may be made, and that has
been so sucessfully done by some artists, is suffi-
cient to excite the desire to bring it into more
general use. One can conceive of no more beau-
tiful method of ornamenting the windows of
churches, and public buildings, or, in fact, any-
thing in the way of ornamenting on glass. The
following method is the one now in general use.
Before engaging in this, it would be better if the
artist could get some little previous instruction.
\Ve will endeavor to give the correct principles in
regard to the oven, the baking, the colors, and
the manner of making and using them.

T lie 071m is made of fire brick, and arched
over like a common bake oven. This is to admit
of an iron chest, or mutile, as it is called, so close
on the outside that neither fire nor smoke can
penetrate, and about three or four inches less
than the oven, so that there may be an equal

space at the top, bottom, and sides, with legs to,

keep it from the bottom.

The sheet of glass to be worked upon (the
softer the glass the better) should be spread over
with gum water, and let dry, in order to prevent
the colors from running together, it being also
much better than the slippery glass to work on.
After it is dry, lay it down evenly upon the
design, which has been previously sketched upon
paper, and trace, with a fine hair pencil, all the
outlines and shades of the picture or ornament
with black. (See the mode of the preparation of
colors at the end of this article.)

i.

 

DICTIONARY. 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

_ T/ze ngr/zt: and Shades are produced by dots,
lines, and hatches, very much after the manner
of the engraver. When this is finished and dry,
it is ready for the

Floating. Take the prepared cfilors and float
them on by d' ping the pencil in e color, and
taking it, as ful as it will hold, to the glass, and
just near enough so that the mixture will flow out
upon the glass, care being taken that the pencil
does not touch the glass, as it leaves a spot. This
refers only to transparent colors.

T a/éz'ngaut tlze Lnglztn—The methods of doing
this, after the color is on, are various. Perhaps
the best way is to take a goose-quill, made in the
shape of a pen, without the slit. With this the
artists take out the lights by dots, lines, etc., to -
suit his taste. It is then ready for the kiln or
oven.

Over the bottom of the oven, or muffle, must
be spread, about a half inch thick, a bed of
slacked lime, perfectly dry, and sifted through a
sieve. Upon this lay a sheet of glass, then
another layer of lime, and so on, if desired, for
half a dozen sheets, though for very fine work,
and where uniformity of coloring is required, it
is better to have a less number. There may be
quite a number of iron slides in the muffle, so
that a number of glasses may be burned at one
heat, without having more than one or two upon
each slide. Close the muffle and raise the fire ;
but gradually, or the heat will break the glass.

After it is got up to a red heat, it may remain
so for two, three, or four hours, according to the
tests, which are strips of glass, painted with the
same colors as the sheets, and drawn out occa-
sionally. When the colors are properly burned
in, the fire may die away gradually, as it was
raised. When cold, the glass is taken out and
well cleaned.

The chemicals mentioned in the following pre-
paration of colors, may be had at most of the
first-class drug stores. These preparations should
be combined, so that each shall require aboutthe
same amount of heating to bring out the color.

STAINING GLASS, Colorsfor.——Fle.rlz. Red
lead I 02.; red enamel 2 oz. Grind to a fine
powder; work it up with alcohol, on a flag stone.
Requires slight baking. — Black. Iron scales
14% 02.; white crystal glass 2 02.; antimony I 02.;
manganese % oz. Pound fine and grind in strong
vinegar.—Brz'l[iantBlack. Made to any degree
of depth by the mixture of cobalt with the oxides
of iron and manganese. — Brown. White glass
I 02.; manganese % 02.—1\’z'c/z Brown. Oxide of
platinunn—Red. Red chalk I 02.; white, hard
enamel 2 02.; peroxide of copper I drachm.—
Fine Red. Rust of iron 3 02., glass of antimony
2 02., litharge 2 02., sulphuret of silver % drachm.
-—Grem. Brass dust 2 02., red lead 2 02., white
sand 2 oz. Calcine the brass to an oxide, and
make all into a fine powder. Heat in a crucible
one hour, in a hot oven. When cold, grind in a
brass mortar.——Green. Oxide of chrome—Gram.
Blue on one side, yellow on the other.—— Ytllotu.
Fine silver, dissolved in nitric acid. Dilute With
plenty of water, Pour in a strong solution of
salt, and the silver, in the form of chloride of
silver, will fall to the bottom in a yellow powder.
When settled, pour off the fluid; fill up With
water; when settled, pour off again, and so on
for five or six times. When dry, mix the powder
with three times its weight in pipe clay, well
burned and pounded. Paint on the back of the

WORKERS IN METALS.

glass—Yellow. Sulphuret of silver, glass of
antimony, and burnt yellow when—Blue.
Oxide of cobalt, which is cobalt ore, after
being well roasted, is dissolved in diluted
nitric acid.—- Add considerable water, and
pour into it a strong solution of carbonate of
soda. A carbonate of cobalt is thrown to the
bottom in a powder. Wash well, as for chloride
of silver, and let dry. Mix this with three times
”its weight of saltpeter. Burn the mixture in a
' crucible, by putting a red hot coal to it. Heat,
' wash, and dry it. Three pints of this to one of
a flux made of white sand, borax, saltpeter, and
a very little chalk, melted together for an hour,
and then ground into an enamel powder for use.
Any shape may be had by more or less flux.—
Violet. Black oxide of manganese, I oz. ; zaffer,
I 02.; pounded white glass, 10 oz. 3 red lead, 1
oz. 3 mix, fuse, and grind.

 

397

The fluxes are made of flint glass, borax, pipe
cla , white sand, &c.

The principles of glass staining, and making
the colors, therefore, will be found of great ser-
vice to beginners; et it must be understood
that the practice wi 1 be very diflicult, Without
some practical instructions; yet, one who has a
taste, and some scientific ability, may be enabled,
by studying these rules closely, and by a few
trials in experimenting, to succeed in producing
the work properly.

WINDO W GLA SS,( Wimpy—Take of white
sand, 60 lbs. ; of unpurified pearlash, 25 lbs. ; of
common salt, 10 lbs. ; of nitre/s lbs. ; of arsenic

l
2

2 lbs.; and of manganese, I oz. This will
be inferior, but may he impr0ved, when de-
sired, by urifying the pearlash. For other

methods 0 making cheap glass, see receipts alt
ready given.

WORKERS IN METALS.

ALLOY (A nti-Frz'clz'on), For yaurnal Boxes.
--1. Zinc, I7 parts; copper, I part; antimony,
1% parts. This possesses unsurpassable antifric-
ion qualities, and does not require the protection
of outer casings of a harder metal. 2. The best
alloy for journal boxes is composed of copper,
24 lbs. ; tin, 24 lbs.; and antimony, 8 lbs.
Melt the copper first, then add the tin, and lastly
the antimony. It should first be run into ingots,
then melted and cast in the form required for
the boxes.

A LLO Y Imorrorz'w.-—-By preparing an alloy of
97 parts lead to 3 parts tin, a metal is produced
upon which the action of pure water is very
much decreased; and by using an alloy of 95
parts lead to 5 parts tin, we have a metal on
which the action of pure water is scarcely per-
ceptible.

A LLO Y, for Soldering- Iran to Steel, or tit/tar
qf there [0 Bran—This alloy consists of 3 parts
of tin, 39% of copper, and 7% of zinc. When
applied in a molden state, it will firmly unite the
metals first named.

AL UIIIIN U111, T a Exmzct from Clay.—The
first thing is to extract from the clay alum,
and then from the alum alumina, and then con-
vert the alumina into a chloride of alumina; and
then from this, by the aid of sodium, we obtain
aluminum. All these processes require so much
patient labor and apparatus, as to account for
the cost of extraction and put it beyond the reach
of most amateurs. 'We will give the processes
from the beginning. Clay free from carbonate of
lime or oxide of iron, is dried without burning,
powdered, sifted, and mixed with forty-five per
cent. of sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol) of the
gravity 1.45. All this in a stone or brick recep-
tacle. Then it is heated in a furnace two or
three days, withdrawn, and allowed to rest for a
week in a warm place; then it is leached as
wood ashes are leached for ley. This is boiled
until it is a thick liquid, when a solution of am-
monia is added, which causes the thicker parts of
the alum water to fall to the bottom 5 the upper

 

thin liquor is drawn off, a thin wire of thread
put in the middle, around which the alum (sul-
phate of alumina) in a few days crystalizes, as
we see it in the druggists. Now we have what
is called ammonia alum. Now take any quanc
tity of this, expose it to a white heat in a cruci-
ble to drive off the sulphur and ammonia, and
we have a white powdery mass called alumina.

Now supposing your alumina to have come
out pure and clear, mix equal parts of alumina,
oil, and lampblack, and expose to a very strong
heat to thoroughly drive off every trace of water.
This heat is kept up until all the oil and
lampblack is driven off. Then take what is left,
put into a porcelain tub over a furnace; through
this tube pass chlorine gas, while the tube is
heated red hot. Your gas is obtained by pour-
ing four parts muriatic acid upon one part of
black oxide of manganese; the gas rises there-
from and may be conducted by a tube over the
alumina. As soon as the tube is choked—that
is, when no more gas will enter into combina«
tion With the alumina, stop operations and allow
the whole to cool. You now have the sesqui-
chloride of alumina in crystals at the cooler end
of the tube. This is taken out and preserved in
naphtha for use. It attracts the water of the at-
mosphere very rapidly. Now take your sesqui-
chloride—say six ounces—put it into a wide tub;
heat it to drive off moisture and acid; then in
the portion of the tube nearest you put some
pieces of sodium, which has a strong affinity for
chlorine, and increase the heat until no more
sodium is visible—or, in other words, you now
have resulting the double chloride of sodium and
aluminum. It is best to have a connection with
a stream of hydrogen gas, in which the last
found com ound is cooled. Now put the whole
into acruc1ble, cover with common salt, and ex-
pose to a powerful heat. At the end of an hour
or so the button of aluminum is found at the
bottom of the crucible.

This is an outline of the principal processes
from the clay to the metal. Manufacturers on

'398

DICTIONARY OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

the large scale make many variations, of course ;
but they generally purchase their alum ready
made. There is no certain methods of obtaining
aluminum from the clay by any shorter process.
An Italian chemist, Corbelli, says he has obtained
it by mixing six parts pure clay with ten parts of
sulphuric or muriatic acid, and then heating the
dried and filtered solution in a porcelain crucible
to 900° Fahrenheit; then powdering this cal-
cined mass, he mixes it with twenty parts ferro-
cyanide of potassium and fifteen parts chloride
of sodium powdered and thoroughly dried; the
whole is then exposed to a white heat in a porce-
lain crucible, until the contents are fused, when
the usual button of aluminum is found at the
bottom. We have, however, never heard of any
one who has repeated the Italian gentleman’s
experiment. ’

AMALGAM far Electrical Mac/zines. — 1.
Zinc and tin, of each one part, quicksilver two
parts. Melt the tin and zinc, add the mercury
made hot, pour the mixture into a. wooden box,
and shake until cold.

2. Zinc, 2 parts, tin,
parts.

3. Zinc, 2 parts, tin, I part, quicksilver, 5

part, quicksilver, 3

s.

4. Quicksilver, 6 02., bees wax, % 02., zinc,
2 02., grain tin, I 02.

5. Boettger recommends an amalgam made of
two parts by weight of zinc, mixed, while melt-
ed, with one part of mercury. He finds it supe-
rior to the amalgam commonly used.

AMA LGAM of Gold.—Place one part of gold
in a small iron saucepan or ladle, perfectly clean,
then add 8 parts of mercury, and apply a gentle
heat, when the gold will dissolve ; agitate the
mixture for one minute, and pour it out on a
clean plate or stone slab.

For gilding brass, copper, etc. The metal to
be gilded is first rubbed Over with a solution of
nitrate of mercury, and then covered with a very
thin film of the amalgam. On heat being applied
the mercury volatilizes, leaving the gold behind.

A much less proportion of gold is often em-
ployed than the above, where a very thin and
cheap gilding is required, as by increasing the
quantity of the mercury, the precious metal may
be extended over a much larger surface. A simi-
lar amalgam prepared with silver is used for sil-

venn .

AlgALGAM fivr Mirrors.—Lead and tin,
each I 02.; bismuth, 2 02.; mercury 4 02.; melt
as before, and add the mercury. These are used
to silver mirrors, glass globes, etc., by warming
the glass, melting the amalgam, and apply-

m it. ’

iNNEALING STEEL—I. For a small
quantity. Heat the steel to a cherry red in a
charcoal fire, then bury in sawdust, in an iron
box, covering the sawdust with ashes. Let stay
until cold.—2. For a larger quantity, and when
it is required to be very “soft.” Pack the steel
with cast iron (lathe or planer) chips in an iron
box, as follows; Having at least % or % inch
in depth of chips in the bottom of box, put in a
' layer of steel, then more chips to fill spaces be-
tween the steel, and also the % or 54 inch space
between the sides of box and steel, then more
steel; and, lastly, at least I inch in depth of
chips, well rammed down on top of steel. Heat
to and keep at a red heat for from two to four
hours. Do not disturb the box until cold.

 

A N VILS, Impaled—The face or table of
anvils, as at present made, is often defective,
having frequently hard and soft places after
hardening, while the face should be equally hard
all over its surface ; and the steel in some in-
stances not being properly welded to the iron

art or butt which forms the lower part, the anvil
is thereby rendered unsound and not fit for use.
Some improvements recently atented by an in-
ventor of Sheflield, England, ave for their ob-
ject the removal of such defects, and consist in
so making anvils that the face may be equally
hard all over when finished, and in so casting or
welding the butt to the head or upper table that
the parts may be thoroughly amalgamated, and
the anvil made more durable at a less expense
than hitherto.

He first prepares a model of the size and shape
of the anvxl to be produced. He then laces it
in a box, covers it with composition, and) fills up
the box with sand in the ordinary manner. After
the model is removed, and the sand perfectly
dry, (this being done in the usual way,) he first
pours in the molten steel to form the face or
table, then, through the same aperture, (after the
steel on the table is sufficiently cool,) he pours
in a very mild molten steel, which flows over the
table and gives the requisite toughness and so-
lidity to the steel back. After a proper time has
elapsed, he pours in through another opening
the iron or metal, which also runs upon the steel,
and forms the lower part or butt of the anvil,
and a perfect amalgamation takes place between
the iron and steel. The casting being complete,
it is then finished in the ordinary manner.

To harden the work, a large metal box or
trough, 6 or 8 inches deep, is formed, in which
is inserted a number of perforated sharp-edge
bars of metal, on which the anvil is allowed to
rest on its face or upper surface, either flat or
slanting. A sluice communicating with a reser‘
voir of water is then opened, and a force of cold
water is allowed to flow upon the face by an up-
ward cast, and to pass under the anvil and over
the bars to any depth required. By these means
a much harder and more regular surface is ob-
tained than by the resent mode of manufacture.
After this, the surfgce is ground in the ordinary

wa .

(ZN TIM ONOID.-—A welding power, named
antimonoid, has been in use for some time past
in Germany, and found to be of great efficiency.
The formula for its pre aration has, until lately,
been kept a secret; but we now learn that it
consists of four parts of iron turnings, three parts
of borax, two parts of borate of iron, and one of
water.

ASHBERRIUM—This name has been ap-
plied to a new alloy which consists of 80 parts of
tin, 14 of antimony, 2 of copper, 2 of nickel, l
of alimonium, and I of zinc.

BA T T Elt‘Y, Cheap ElectriraI.—First procure
a common wine bottle of a good length and
thickish glass. Drill a hole through its bottom,
which is generally done by placing a piece of
worsted, which must be dipped in turpentine,
upon the bottom, and igniting it. Through this
hole and the mouth pass a spindle. Fasten it
well in the bottle; put a crank upon one end.
Then put the bottle on a frame similar to a.
grindstone. Next make a cushion of wash-leath-
er, stuffed with wool, and fastened to the top of
a small frame. This frame is to be of such:

WORKERS 11V METALS.

hight that the cushion shall press against the
sides of the bottle, and a piece of black silk is
fastened to the top of the cushion, and hangs
over the bottle. The cushion should be smeared
with an amalgam formed by melting to ether in
the bowl of a tobacco pipe, one part 0 tin with
two of zinc; to which, while fluid, should be
added six parts of mercury. These should be
stirred about till quite cold, and then reduced to
a fine powder in a mortar, and mixed with a
sufficient quantity of lard to form a stickish paste.
When this is done the machine is complete. But
before using we must have a conductor. This is
made in the following manner: At right angles to
one end of a cylinder of wood, about two and
one-half inches in diameter, and six i'nches long,
fix a small wooden cylinder about three-quarters
of an inch in diameter, and three inches long,
rounded at both ends; the other end of the large
cylinder is also to be rounded. Cover the whole
with tinfoil, and mount it on a stand on a glass
rod. When used, it is to be placed with the
even iece in a line even with, and about half an
inch rom the bottle; and it should be of such a
hight as to come just below the silk apron. When
it is wished to charge a Leyden jar, it is to be
placed at the round end of the conductor. By
these simple means a great variety of pleasing
experiments may be performed.

BA TTERY, Cheap Galvanic. — I. Procure
about twenty copper pennies, (if worn smooth so
much the better) or get some sheet copper, cut
circular and of a large diameter, and the same
number similar pieces of zinc. The latter may
be formed by the constructor himself; being very
easily melted, it may be cast in a mold like lead,
or it may be procured in a sheet, and cut similar
to the copper. Then provide the same number
of pieces of cloth, which must be soaked in a
solution of common salt and water; or what is
better, a liquid composed of one quart of sul-
phuric acid, two of nitric acid and sixty of water.
After this is done, place one of the ieces of zinc
in atea saucer, and on it put one ofp the pennies,
or pieces of sheet—copper; on this place a piece
of cloth, and so continue making a pile—zinc,
copper, cloth—until they are all piled on one
another; taking care to make the same arrange-
ment throughout. The piece on the top, which
will be a penny, should have a copper wire,
which, for some experiments, should be tipped
with platinum wire soldered to it, and the lower
piece, which will be zinc, should be treated in
the same manner. From the ends of these wires
a stream of the galvanic fluid will constantly issue,
until all the acid is absorbed from the pieces of
cloth, 'and although the apparatus is on a very
small scale, a variety of exceedingly interesting
experiments may be performed with it.—2. Take
acylindrical vessel, and put another of porous
porcelain inside of it; fill the vessel with diluted
sul huric acid, and the s ace between the two
wit sulphate of copper (if you re uire to late
the article with copper); if not a so ution o the
salt of gold, silver, etc., accordin to that which
you wish it to be; put a slip o zinc in the sul-
phuric acid, and attach a copper wire to it, and
the other end to the medal or article you wish to
plate, and immerse that in the other solution.

our battery is now com lete. If you want the
copper to be very thic , you must puta few
solid crystals of copper in the solution; where
you do not want it to come in contact, you must

 

.399

touch it with a little grease; if you want to take
the copper off the article you must do it over with
a slight varnish. — 3. A Clzcap Galvanic Battery
has been described by Dr. Golding Bird, which,
it is stated can decompose water and ignite char-
coal. The mode of construction is to break the
stem of six tobacco pipes close to the bowls, and
close the apertures at the bottom of each bowl
with sealing wax; get six small toy tumblers,
about half an inch in hight: put in each a cylinder
of amalgamated zinc, and place in each pipe bowl
a thin slip of platinum foil, half an inch wide, and
connect it with the zinc of the next cell with
platinum wire; fill the pipe bowls with the nitric
acid and the tumblers with dilute sulphuric acid,
and the battery is complete. In case the plati-
num cannot be obtained, copper ma be substi-
tuted. This battery is in im1tation o the famous{
batter made by Faraday out of a common
thimb e.

BA T T ER Y (Mercurial) q/‘Davyn—This gal-
vanic battery, which has lately been extensively
and almost exclusively used in France, is not so
universally known as it deserves. It is composed
of zinc and carbon; but in place of diluted acid,
the zinc is simply immersed in pure water, while
the carbon is immersed in a paste of moistened
sulphate of the oxide of mercury. The chemical
action is similar to the Daniel battery, consisting
of zinc, copper, and sulphate of copper. The
zinc is oxidized at the expense of the water, which
is decomposed, its oxygen combining with the
zinc, forming oxide of zinc, while the hydrogen
in its nascent state reduces the oxide of mercury,
combining with the oxygen, forming water, and
leaving the mercury in a metallic state. In this
condition mercury can not remain in combination
with sulphuric acid. Hence, the latter is also set
free and combines with the oxid of zinc, forming
sulphate of zinc; exactly as is the case in the
Lowe, Daniel, and other batteries, while the
metallic mercury collects at the bottom of the
vessel. Such a battery may remain in operation
for half a year, without cleaning or the addition
of liquid. The current generated by 40 small
elements has the same, power as that from 60 of
Daniel’s larger ones, which lasted less than half
the time.

As a modification of this battery, instead of the
soluble sul hate of mercury, the insoluble sub-
sulphate o the same metal may be used. When
mercury is boiled with sulphuric acid, a portion
of the acid is decom osed in order to furnish
oxygen for the oxidation of the mercury, which
then combines with the remaining acid and forms
adry, neutral salt. When this isadiluted with
water, it is resolved, like many other salts, into
two compounds; an acid sulphate, which is
dissolved, and abasic sulphate, which is insoluble.
The latter has a lemon-yellow color, and being
supposed to resemble closelyin its medical effects
the powdered root of a now obsolete plant, the
turpeth, it was called the mineral turpeth.

For many years this substance had no practical
value in the arts, but now it will probably be
extensively emplo ed in galvanic batteries for
telegraphic and ot er urposes.

BA TTE. Y, Top at: wit/z. -— If the plate is
to be gold use the gold solution for electro-platin ;
if silver, use the silver solution. Prepare t e
article to be plated by immersing it for several
minutes in a stron ley made of potash and rain

water, polishing a thoroughly at the end of the

400

time with a soft brush and prepared chalk. Care
should be taken not to let the fingers laid down
in the directions for plating with a battery. If
the article being plated has the strip of zinc
touching much of its surface, it may be well to
change the place of contact at every polishing.

You will find this mode of plating but little in-
ferior to that of plating with a battery. It is
more employed now, perhaps, than any other.

BA TTER Y( Galvanz'e) Improved Lz'guz'a’flr.
—Mr. Victor Barjon’s new battery li uid, is made
by mixing a solution of bichromate o potash with
a little lime, and with sulphuric acid. He puts
2 lbs. of bichromate of potash into a gallon of
boiling water, and lets the solution cool down to
68°, and adds 2 oz. of lime. After stirring, he
adds sulphuric acid until the gravity reaches 35°
Beaumé. Then, having stirred the whole, he
lets it stand for 24 hours, when it is ready for
use.

BELL ME TAL.——-I. Melt together under
powdered charcoal, 100 parts of pure copper,
with 20 parts of tin, and unite the two metals by
frequently stirring the mass. Product very fine.
-—2. Copper 3 parts; tin I part; as above. Some
of the finest church bells in the world have this
composition.—3. Copper 2 parts; tin 1 art; as
above.—-—-4. Copper 72 parts; tin 2612 parts;
iron 1% parts. The bells of small clocks or
pendules are made of this alloy in Paris.

It is absolutely necessary in this process to
keep the metals from contact with the air, for
which purpose, the powdered charcoal is em-
ployed. The union of the two metals in this alloy
is so complete, that its gravity is considerably
greater than that of the mean of its constituents,
tlius evincing chemical union to have taken

ace.

The proportions of the first form are those of
the Indian gong, so much celebrated for the
richness of its tone. In very small bells, and in
those of repeating watches, a little zinc is gene-
rally added, which makes them give out their
tones the sharper. A less proportion of tin is
now generally used for church bells, than for
house or clock bells, the tones being thought to
be rendered thereby more suitable to their re-
spective urposes. The substitution of zinc for
the iron in the last formula, would (I am told)
improve the tone.

0 give this alloy its highest degree of sono-
rousness, it must be subjected to sudden refrige-
ration. M. D’Arcet recommends the pieces to
be ignited after they are cast, and then to be
suddenly plunged into cold water. They are
next to undergo a well-regulated pressure by
skillful hammering, until they have assumed
their intended form; then to be heated, and al-
lowed to cool slowly in the air. In a general
way, however, bells are formed b simple cast-
ing. The addition of lead, and 0t er metals, to
this alloy, greatly lessens its sonorousness. For
common purpose the third form is generally

used.

BOILER EXPLOSIONS, To Prevent.—
Frequent inspection and careful management of
boilers are the best preventives of explosions,
and the insurance of losses by damage from such
explosions, by companies established especially
for such urposes, secures the desirable inspec-
tion; while if the rules adopted by these com-
panies are faithfully observe , good management
as well as safety is obtained. The following

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

rules are so plain and practical that they are
calculated to meet almost every conceivable exi.
gency:

Low Water.—In case of low water, immedi.
ately bank or cover the fires with ashes, or if no
ashes are at hand, use fresh coal. Do not turn
on the feed under any circumstances, nor tamper
with or open the safety-valve. Let the steam
outlets remain as they are.

In Case: of Foamin g.—-Close throttle, and keep
closed long enough to show true level of water.
If that level is sufficiently high, feeding and blow-
ing will usually suffice to correct the evil. In
cases of violent foaming, caused by dirty water,
or change from salt to fresh, or vice versa, in
addition to the action before stated, check draught
and cover fires with fresh coal.

Safety- Velma—Raise the safety-valves cau-
tiously and frequently, as they are liable to be-
come fast in their seats, and useless for the pur-
pose intended.

Safety-I/Qzlve and Pressure-Gauge. —— Should
the gauge at any time indicate the limit of pres-
sure allowed by this company, see that the safety-
valves are blowing off. In case of difference,
notify the company’s inspector.

Gauge-Corks -— Glam-Gauge. —-— Keep gauge-
cocks clear, and in constant use. Do not open
them too suddenly. Glass gauges should not be
relied on altogether.

Leaks. —— When leaks are discovered, they
should be repaired as soon as possible.

Blisterr.-—-When a blister appears, there must
be no delay in having it carefully examined, and
trimmed or patched, as the case may require.

Clean Sheen‘s—Particular care should be taken
to keep sheets and parts of boilers exposed to
the fire perfectly clean; also all tubes ; fines and
connections well swept. This is particularly
pecessary where wood or soft coal is used for
uel.

filming-0f —Blow down at least once in two
weeks—every Saturday night would be better.
In case the feed becomes muddy, blow out six or
eight inches every da . 'Where surface blow-cocks
are used, they shou d be often opened for a few
moments at a time.

Filling up the Boiler.—After blowing down,
allow the boiler to become cool before filling
again. Cold water pumped into hot boilers is
very injurious from sudden contraction.

Exterior quoiler.—Care should be taken that
no water comes in contact with the exterior
of the boiler, either from leaky joints or other
causes.

Removing Deposil and Sediment—In tubular
boilers, the hand-holes should be often opened,
and all collections removed from over the fire.
Also, when boilers are fed in front and blown
off through the same pipe, the collections of mud
or sediment in the rear end should be often re-
moved.

General Care of Boilers and Connections.—
Under all circumstances keep the gauges, me
etc., clean and in good order; and things gene-
rally, in and about the engine and borler-room,
in neat condition.

BOILER INCRUSTA TIONS, To waefzt.
—-A very simple mode of preventing botler m-
crustation is in general use at the Darmstadt
gas-works. The engine has worked day and
night since 1854 almost without interruption, and
the formation of calcareous deposrts has been

WORKERS 11V METALS.

401

 

entirely Prevented by the use of crude prolig-
neous acrd, combined with tar; it is either intro-
duced into the boiler or mixed with the feed
water. Since the mixture has been in use they
have never had a stoppage through incrustation,
and have never had to use a hammer to remove
scale. Each year, during the summer, when
less gas is required, the boiler is opened, and
perhaps a couple of handfuls of loose sediment
taken from the bottom. The quantity em loyed
is very small—just enough to redden itmus
paper; consequently the iron is not attacked, as
indeed is apparent from the fact that the boiler
has been but twice under repair.

BOILERS, To Prevent Lime Deporz'tr.—Put
into your cistern or tank, from which the boiler
is fed, a sufficient amount of oak tan bark, in
the piece, to color the water rather dark; run
four weeks and renew. This plan has been
much used, in the lime-stone sections of Ohio,
giving general satisfaction.

BUR/1X, To Prepare for flu: Blow-pipe.—
Take one ounce of borax, coarsely powdered,

ut it into a clean crucible, and cover it loosely.

ut the whole into a furnace, and watch it till it
ceases to swell, then augment the heat, and
when the whole fuses quietly, take it out, and
pour it into a wedgewood-ware or metallic mor-
tar, and when cold, reduce it to an impalable
powder, in which state it is to be used.

BORAX, Subditule fan—Coppers, 2 02.;
saltpetre, I oz. ; common salt, 6 oz. ; black ox-
ide of manganese, I 02.; prussiate of potash, I
02.; all pulverized, and mixed with3 lbs. of
nice welding sand, and use the same as you would
sand. High tempered steel can be welded with
this at a lower heat than is required for borax.

BRASS—An alloy of copper and zinc.
Brass was formerly manufactured by cementing
granulated copper, or copper clippings, with
calcined calamine and charcoal, in crucibles, ex-

osed to a bright heat. The alloy was found in
umps at the bottom of the crucible on cooling.
These were remelted and cast into ingots. At
the present day, brass is generally made by di-
rect union of the metals. This process requires
much care, owing to the different degrees of
fusibility of cop er and zinc. The proper quan—
tity of zinc is rst melted, and slips of copper

lunged into it, which are rapidly dissolved, as
it were, and the addition is continued until an
alloy is formed, somewhat difficult of fusion,
when the remainder of the copper is added.
The brass thus formed is broken into pieces, and
remelted under charcoal, and a proper addition
of either zinc or copper made, to bring it up to
the color and quality desired. It is next cast
into plates, or other forms, in moulds of granite.
When submitted to the rolling-press for reduc-
tian to l/zin plates, it requires to undergo the
operation of annealing several times.

I. (Fine Brars.)—2 parts of copper to I part
of zinc. This is nearly one equivalent each of
copper and zinc, if the equivalent of the former
metal be taken at 63-2; or 2 equivalents of cop-
per to 1 equivalent of zinc, if it be taken with

tebxg and Berzelius, at 31-6.

2. Copper 4parts, zinc I part. An excellent
and very useful brass.

_BR{ISS, Dipping—The operation of “dip-
ping”is practised as follows: The shop
15 or should be, a well ventilated, high-
roofed apartment, with abundant provision

 

for the escape of the fumes of the acid.
It is built round interiorly with brick-work,
on which to place the tubs which contain the
water to kill the acid, and the “jowls” or
earthware vessels in which the various strengths
of acid are contained. There should also be a.
mufile in which to anneal the work, and a hori-
zontal plate of iron with provision to heat it, in
order to keep the boxwood receptacle or sheet-
iron pan and its contents at a moderate temper-
ature. This shop should be in connection with
a space or yard in which to place the pickle
troughs, and there should be ample provision for
the supply of clean cold water; it soft water so
much the better; also a set boiler in which to
keep hot a supply of lye or alkaline solution, as
potash or soda. The materials employed are
aquafortis of various strengths, pure water, and
argol, i. e., the refuse or sediment of wine casks,
or crude tartar in the form of a powder. After
annealing, the work is immersed in a weak so.
lution of pickle, to scale it, or remove the ex-
ternal skin. After rinsing it out, it is brushed
with sand, to remove the more firmly adherent
scales. Again pickled, it uniformly clean, it is
then in a condition to receive a final finish, if
bright dipped; and, if dead dipped, to be sub-
jected to the “deadening” process, which is
conducted as follows : The aquafortis is reduced
from its dipping strength by means of water, or
a special variety is used and designated by the
name of “deadening aqua.” A quantity of
either the former or latter is poured into a
“ jowl.” or brown earthenware opened-mouthed
vessel. The articles are placed therein, and the
jowl agitated till a creamy coating is observ-
able over their entire surface; they are then re-.
moved and washed out in water. After they are
cooled and the acid “killed,” they are passed
through the strong aquafortis, rinsed out in three,
several tubs of water, and then dried out in
warm box—sawdust contained in the sheet-iron
pan already alluded to. Any acid which may-
have accidently insinuated itself into defects in
the work is neutralized by immersion in the lye
or alkaline solution contained in the boiler..
After the articles are dried out they are then.
plunged into a tub containing pure water, on;
the surface of which is strewed a small quantity
of argol, or tartar. In this condition the work-.
man holds them in his vice, or, if round on
globular places them on the chuck in his lathe.

The operation of dipping is considerably de.-.
pendent on temperature. It is retarded by cold,.
and accelerated by a moderate heat ; in exceed.
ingly hot weather it is with great (difficulty ac.
complished, and is rarely satisfactory, as the:
work becomes speckled or irregular in the “dead-
ening.” The success of the operation of (lip-
ping is greatly dependent on the mixture of the
metal, and nota little on the aquafortis, its.
strength and purity. Up to the present time.-
practice has been the only guide to English
“ dippers;” the recurrence of a certain phenom-
ena they obviate by experience, by rule of thumb.
or experiment; and these experiments are not
on a1 occasions successful in removing the dit'fi.
culties which, present themselves. Science, to
be useful, shbuld deal with the rationale of the
operations and processes employed in manufac-
tures; but no scientific work has yet explained
the “why and because” which regulates the
failgre or success of ‘ ‘dead dipping.”

2

a

402

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

To dipping follows burnishing, the process of
which is as follows:

BRASS, B URAVISHING. — Burnishing,
which furnishes a contrast to other portions of
dead dipped work, is effected by means of steel
burnisher, or tools of steel, varying in form
according to the nature of the work and surfaces
of the portion to be burnished. For ordinay flat
work, or tubes and the edges of cast work, the
burnishers are from twelve to fifteen inches long
and oval shape, and tapering to a point. Other
varieties of burnishers, as for lathe burnishing,
are made with variously formed terminations;
others are hooked, and of various breadths and
thicknesses ; all are blunt, and after being hard-
ened are polished up to the highest degree of
brilliancy on the portion used for burnishing.
The article to be burnished is held in a vice, if
cast; if stamped, it is laid on a “force” or solid
metal convex brass or lead cast of the stamped
article; this furnishes an internal support to the
thin metal, and prevents its sinking under the
pressure of the burnisher. The surface to be

urnished is operated upon with the steel burn-
isher, dipped in “ox gall.” This lubricates the
burnisher, and prevents scratching. The work,
when it gets dry, is dipped into the argol water.
When the article has been burnished on all the
portions intended, it is passed through “sharp
water,” i. e., water in which a small quantity of
acid has been mixed, thereafter it is rinsed out
in pure water, and finally dried out in warm box-
sawdust; it is then lacquered to protect it from
oxidation or tarnish.

BRASS, T o Bronze.—For bronzing the brass
objects are first made warm, and washed in a hot
solution of ammonium chloride, (52.1 ammoniac,)
and then placed over night in a tolerably diluted
solution of two parts cupric acetate, (verdigris.)
and one part ammonium chloride in six parts of
vinegar. The next ’morning they are taken out
and washed. A bronze to be applied with the
brush is made by boiling 16 parts ammonium
carbonate and 16 parts cupric sulphate in 200
parts vinegar till the latter is almost entirely
evaporated ; then adding one part of oxalic acid,
and 4 parts of ammonium chloride dissolved in
200 parts vinegar; the whole is placed over the
fire till it boils, then cooled, filtered, and preserv-
ed in well-stoppered bottles. Clean thoroughly
the object to be bronzed, heat it, and apply the
liquid with a fine brush. After griving it time
to act, pour on boiling water, and rub with a dry
oily cotton rag, and then with dry cotton, til
every trace of the vinegar has disappeared.

BRASS, A new. — The difficulty of uniting
iron to brass is created by the unequal rate of
expansion in the two metals, which destroys the
unity when the temperature is changed. A new
alloy of copper is announced, and the inventor
claims that its expansion b heat is so similar to
iron and steel, that the sur aces may be regarded,
when joined, as permanently united, for all prac-
tical purposes. The formula is as follows: Tin,
3 parts; copper, 39% parts; zinc 7D; parts.

BRASS, Coaling.-—- 1. Brass plates and rods'
may be covered with asuperficial coating of brass,
by exposing them in a heated state to the fumes
of melted zinc, at a high temperature. Use. For
rolling into thin plates, or drawing into wire. The
celebrated spurious gold wire of Lyons is thus
made—2. Vessels of copper may be coated with
brass, internally, by filling them with water

 

strongly acidulated with muriatic acid, addin
some amalgam of zinc and cream of tartar, and
then boiling for a short time.

BRA SS, T a Coat with T z'n.—- It is often desir-
able to coat brass, copper or lead with a thin
covering of tin. This can be managed thus:
Half a pint of table salt and a quarter pound of
cream of tartar are dissolved in about five gallons
of water. Some tin scrapings or filings are then
added to the water. The articles to be coated
are then ut into the solution and smartly boiled,
being stirred all the time, until the re uisite
coating is given. Boiling in a tin vessel Without
the filings will give a very fair coating, but of
course not so good.

BRASS, To Cover wilfi beauliful Lustre Cal-'
07:.— One ounce of cream of tartar is dissolved
in one quart of hot water, to which is added half
an ounce of tin salt (protochloride of tin) dissolv-
ed in four ounces of cold water. The whole is
then heated to boiling, the clear solution decanted
from a trifling precipitate, and poured under
continual stirring into a solution of three ounces
hyposulphite of soda in one-half a pint of water,
whereupon it is again. heated to boiling, and
filtered from the separated sulphur. This solution
produces on brass the various luster-colors,
depending on the length of time during which
the articles are allowed to remain in it. The
colors at first will be light to dark gold yellow,
passing through all the tints of red to an irri-
descent brown. A similar series of colors is
produced by sulphide of copper and lead, which,

owever, are not remarka le for their stability;
whether this defect will be obviated by the use of
the tin solution, experience and time alone can

show.

BRASS, CLEANING of.— Rub the surface
of the metal with rotten stone and sweet oil, then
rub off with a piece of cotton flannel and polish
with soft leather. A solution of oxalic acid rub.
bed over tarnished brass soon removes the
tarnish, rendering the metal bright. The acid
must be washed off with water, and the brass
rubbed with whitening and soft leather. A
mixture of muriatic acid and alum dissolved in
water, imparts a golden color to brass articles
that are steeped in it for a few seconds.

BRA SS, C [gaming Solution fan—Put together
two ounces sulphuric acid, an ounce and ahalf
nitric acid, one dram salt etre and two ounces
rain1 wgter. Let 1stand lor a few hours, and
a y assingt e artice in and out uickl
aiig theh 1washing off thoroughly with cldim raiii
water. Old discolored brass chains treated in
this way will look equally as well as when new.
The usual method of drying is in sawdust.

BRA SS, To Dtposit on Zinc and alller Metalr.
—It is easy enough to electro-plate brass objects
with cop er, silver, or gold, b means of the
galvanic attery; but the deposition of brass on
other metals is not so easy. Brass being an allo
of copper and zinc, there is a tendency to deposrt
the copper in preference, if we use a solution of
sulphate of copper and sulphate of mm, mixed,
for our deposition bath. Experience has proyed
that weak currents, produced by weak batteries,
have especially a tendency to deposit only one
metal out of the mixture, of diverse metallic salts,
and it requires a strong current to deposit them
together, so as to obtain an alloy. But strong
currents possess the grave objection of deposition
thick, irregular, brittle films, which do not adhere

WORKERS IN METALS. 403

well and easily peel off. Hence it is desirable to
use a pre aration of ‘ the metallic salts, which
will permit their simultaneous precipitation at the
same time with a weak current.

Such a preparation was given recently by
Walenn, in England. It had already been ound
that by using in the bath the cyanides of copper
and zinc, (cyanides, by the way, are always used
in depositing gold and silver,) the alloy may be
much more easily deposited than from the sul-
phides. The manufacturers of gas fixtures make
their castings of chandeliers and brackets mostly
of zinc, and then electro-plate them with brass.
This method is followed at present, also, in
making statuary. It is pre ared in quantity for
the trade on a large manu acturing scale. The
practice in such establishments, thus far, is to
dissolve cyanide of copper and zinc in a solution
of cyanide of potassium and a salt of ammonium,
so as to obtain a more soluble double or triple
salt of the metal, with potassium and ammo-
nium.

This preparation, notwithstanding it allows
the deposition of the alloy to take place regular-
ly, has the defect of evolving hydrogen gas in
great quantity, which interferes with the galvanic
current; and this defect has been removed by
the prescription of Walenn, which runs as fol-
lows : To a mixed solution of cyanide of potas-
sium and neutral tartrate of ammonia in water,
add the cyanides of copper and zinc till saturated,
then add the oxides of the same metals; that is,
black oxide of copper and unadulterated zinc-
white, and let the liquid dissolve as much of
them as possible. This preparation being used
as a bath, causes the evolution of hydrogen to be
made much less. It may even be entirely pre-
vented by the addition of ammonide of copper,
when a very weak galvanic current will suffice.
If the color of the brass is too pale, a little more
copper salt is to be added to the solution; if too
deeply copper-colored, a little more of the zinc
salt. A large brass plate is used for the positive
electrode, the object to be coated being attached
to the negative one. If every thing works right,
the brass plate will lose as much in weight as the
object gains by the deposit. As a general hint
for all electro-plating, we must observe that the
objects to be coated must be well cleaned,
scrubbed with fine sand, washed, then scrubbed
again, and then connected with the zinc pole of
the battery before being placed in the trough;
and that the best way of treatment after the de-
posit is formed, is to wash in clear water and
dry in the sawdust of a non-resinous wood. If
the solution is worked at an elevated temperature,
the contact of the coating will be promoted. F i-
nally, we may observe that acid solutions give
“mat” deposits, while alkaline solutions give the
reverse, a bright or bristling coating.

BRASS [It/LAID WORK: To Polish—File
the brass very clean with a smooth file; then
take some tripoli powdered very fine, and mix it
with the linseed oil. Dip in this a rubber of bat,

with which polish the work until the desired ef-_

fect is obtained.

If the work is ebony, or black rose-wood, take
some elder-coal powdered ver fine, and apply it
dr after you have done wit the tripoli, and it
wi I produce a superior olish.

The French mode 0 ornamenting with brass
differs widely from ours, theirs being chiefly
watercgilt (or moulu), excepting the flutes of

 

columns, etc., which are polished very high with
rotten stone, and finished with elder-coal.
BRASS, T o Lacguer.—Lacquering, or the
covering of finished brass work with transparent
varnish to preserve the surface and finish of the
articles from ordinary and extraordinary atmos-
pheric and other influences, may be said to com-
plete the manipulatory operations in the manu~
facture of objects in brass. The lacquering room,
in the best regulated manufactories, is a lofty,
well-aired apartment, with counters round, on
which to lay the finished articles. In it are erect-
ed, on brick basements, with cast-iron top or
plate placed horizontally like an ordinary hot-
hearth, one or more stoves. Ordinary cast-iron
frames and doors are inserted in front to allow
of the introduction of the fuel. A series of flues
running under the surface of the iron plate se-.
cures the difl‘usion of the heat generally on its
upper surface. On this plate are laid the articles
to be lacquered. The lac uer or varnish is com—
posed of spirits of wine in which has been dis-
solved seed lac. In appearance it presents that
of pale French brandy, verging, where colored,
into that of the brown variety of the spirit already
named. Turmeric, dragon’s blood, or sandal
wood, will impart various shades of color if dis-
solved in the mixture of spirits of wine and lac
already named. The brass articles having been
coated over when cold with the lac uer, are laid
on the hot iron plate, and when su ciently heat-
ed are again coated with lacquer applied with
large round camel hair brushes, of sizes varying
from five-eighth inch to one inch diameter.
Delicate and skillful application, and the perfec-
tion of lacquering consist in a uniform coating.
Careless lacquering is indicated by smearing or
irregular depths of shade, and consequently im-
paired brilliancy of effect.

dull. The spirit of wine is simply a solvent for
the gum, and when the lacquer is applied evap-
orates or flies off, leaving the gum on the surface
of the brass, and protects its surface completely
for years from ordinary exhalations or other in-
fluences. Sea air, the noxious fumes of chemi~
cals or tobacco, the deposits of flies, damp, etc.,
however, act upon it, and corrode through the
lacquer, impairing its brilliancy and protective
properties. The idea that lac uering brightens
up brass work, apart from finish, is an error too
frequently entertained; unless there is previous
finish, lacquer being transparent serves only to
render more apparent the existing defects on the
surface of the object on which it is applied.

Attempts have been made to introduce steam-
heated lacquering plates, or a hollow iron box
into which the steam passes. Heat in steam,
however, indicates pressure, and no ordinary en-
gine boiler valve could be so loaded as to stand“
the pressure to get up the required degree 0
heat equal to that produced by fuel introduced
immediately under a cast-iron plate.

Steam has, however, been successfully applied
to the lac uering of tubes and other hollow ar-
ticles as f0 lows: A steam pipe is conducted from
the boiler of the engine connected with the works;
this pipe is led into the lacquering room, and
placed orizontally about three feet or three feet
six inches from the floor. In this horizontal tube
is inserted, at regular distances, a number of good
well-made gun-metal taps; these are fitted with
lever keys, easily removed after the steam has

Too much heat friz- 2
zles the lacquer; if too cold the articles will be»

/

‘;m

404 DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

been turned on or off. The taps have tapering
ends, which are inserted into the ends of the
pipe or tube to be lacquered. The opposite end
of the tube is supported o‘n a stand, the steam is
turned on, passes through the intetior of the
tube, and speedily heats it to a sufficient temper-
ature for lacquering. The lacquer is then ap-
plied as already described. For the purpose of
lacquering such articles as have been named, the
steam method alluded to has no equal. The
heat of the tube, or hollow article to be operated
upon, can be increased. or diminished at will by
simply turning on more, or checking the admis-
sion of the steam. Contrast this with the ted-
ious process of heating atwelve or eighteen feet
tube, or hollow cornice pole, on a cast—iron
plate. The utmost length which could be prop-
erly heated at one time would not extend be-
yond eighteen inches or two feet. We have thus
at least twelve separate beatings ; removed
from the hot plate the article speedily cools, and
we have nine or twelve separate joinings of lac-
quer ; the lacquerer must be careful and skillful
indeed who is able to conceal the junctions of
the several points of contact. If this is con-
trasted with the tube regularly heated by steam,
the superiority of the steam process will at once
be recognized.

1316A SS ORNAMENTS, .To Chum—Brass
ornaments, that have not been gilt or lacquered,
may be clean, and a very brilliant color given
to them, by washing them with alum boiled in
strong lye, in the proportion of an ounce to a
pint, and afterwards rubbing them with strong
tri oli.

59RA SS ORzVA [DIE N TS, To Preserve—This
may be done by two simple processes. The
first is to beat sal ammoniac into a fine powder,
then to moisten it with soft water, rubbing it on
the ornaments; which must be heated over
charcoal and rubbed dry with bran and whiting.
The second is to wash the brass work with roche
alum boiled in strong lye, in the proportion of an
ounce to apiut. When dry it must be rubbed
with fine tripoli. Either of these processes will
give to brass the brilliancy of gold.

BRA SS, T o T emper, or Draw it! T temper.—
Brass is rendered hard by hammering or rolling,
therefore when you make a thing of brass, neces—
sary to be in temper, you must prepare the ma-
terial before shaping the article. Temper may
be drawn from brass by heating it to a cherry
red, and then simply plunging it into water the
same as though you were going to temper
steel.

BRA SS, For- VVira—Copper, 34 parts; cala-
mine, 56 parts. Mix.

BL UING Small Steel Aflz’cleL—I. Having
a quantity of charcoal ashes on an iron plate, or
in a box, place over the fire, and heat slowly.
Put the articles to be blued in the ashes, and as
they get heated, take out occasionally to see how
the color is drawing. When the color is a blue,
do not take them out, but leave them until they
have become white again, when they should be
taken out and allowed to cool. Now, by return-
ing the articles and reheating you will have the
“ second blue.” The first blue will rub off
easily, the second blue will wear quite a long
time, but in order to get a good color, the article
should be highly polished, and free from grease
of any kind, and in no case should the articles
be dipped in oil or water, before or after bluing,

 

unless you wish to spoil the colon—2. Give the
pieces a bright fine polish, and lay them in a
sheet-iron pan, with some slaked lime. Set the
pan over a forge, or in any place where he can
regulate the heat, and watch them carefully until!
they have the right color. If the steel be good,
they will take on a bright vivid blue.

BLUE (Transparent), Far Steel Plough.—
Take dammar varnish % gal. ; finely ground
Prussian-blue % oz. ; mix thoroughly. For
ground steel ploughs, or other ground steel, one
or two coats of this will be found sufficient to
give a nice blue appearance, like highly tempered
steel; some may wish a little more blue; if so,
add the Prussian-blue to your liking.

BRITANNIA METAL—I. Tin, 82 parts;
glad, 18 parts ; brass, 5 parts; antimony, 5 parts.

1x.

2. Brass, I part; antimony, 4 parts; tin, 20
parts. Mix.

3. Plate brass, tin, bismuth, and antimony, of
each equal parts. Add this mixture to melted
tin until it acquires the proper color and hard-
ness.

BROZVZE, Alumimtm.—Resembles gold in
appearance; is said to be twice as strong as the
best gun-metal ; as light as wrought-iron ; is not
easily tarnished. It is easily stamped and en-
graved. It is composed of 10 parts of alumi-
num and 90 of copper. It requires to be re-
melted, as the first melting is brittle.

BRONZE, Cali—Pure gold bronze powder
maybe made as follows: Grind leaf gold with
pure honey until the leaves are broken up and
minutely divided. Remove this mixture from
the stone by a spatula and stir up in a basin of
water; the water will melt the honey and set the
gold free. Leave the basin undisturbed until the
gold subsides. Pour off the water and add
fresh instead, until the honey is entirely washed
away, after which collect the gold on filtering‘
pans and dry for use. A cheaper sort maybe
made thus : Melt one pound of tin in a crucible
and pour it on one-half pound of pure mercury;
when this is solid grind it into powder with seven
ounces of flowers of sulphur, and one-half pound
of sal ammoniac.

BRONZING sz-éarrels.——The so-called
butter of zinc used for bronzing gun-barrels is
made by dissolving zinc in hydrochloric acid
till no more free acid is left; which is secured by
placing zinc in the acid until it ceases to be dis-
solved. The liquid is then evaporated until a
drop taken out and placed on a piece of glass
solidifies in cooling, when it is mixed with 2
parts of olive-oil for every three parts of the li-
quid. The barrels must be cleansed and
warmed before applying the so-called butter,
which put on with a piece of linen rag.

BRONZE, For Cutting- Inrtnlmmtr.-—Cop-

, 100 parts ; tin, 14 parts. M. Dussaussy
says that the above alloy, when hardened and
tempered after the manner of the ancients, wtll
yield an edge nearly equal to that of steel. Sev-
eral analyses have been made of ancient cutting
instruments,whence it appears that the proportlon
of tin varies from 4 to I 5 per eent., which tends
to prove that more depends on the exact mode
of tempering the alloy, than on the relative
quantities of the ingredients. Zinc and tin are m-
admissible in bronze for this purpose. One or
two per cent. of iron might nevertheless be
added with advantage. The ancient bronze used

 

WORKERS IN METALS.

405

 

for springs, contained only 3 to 4 per cent. of

tin.

BRONZING FLUID.— For brown: Iron
' filings, or scales, I 1b.; arsenic, I oz.; hydrochloric
acid, I 1b.; metallic zinc, I oz. The article to be
bronzed is to be dipped in this solution till the
desired effect be produced.

BRONZE, Gram—Acetic acid, diluted, 4lbs.;
green verditer, 2 oz.; muriate of ammonia, I oz.;
common salt, 202.; alum, % oz.; French berries,
% 1b.; boil them together till the berries have
yielded their color, and strain. Olive bronze, for
brass or copper. —Nitric acid, I oz.; hydrochloric
acid, 2 oz.; add titanium or palladium, as much
as will dissolve, and add three pints of distilled
water. 1

BRONZLVG for Iran or Wood.—First,make
a black paint; then put in alittle chrome-yellow,
only sufficient to give it a dark—green shade;
apply a coat of this to the article to be bronzed ;
when dry, give it a coat of varnish; and when
the varnish is a little dry, dust on bronze by
dip ing a piece of velvet into the bronze and
sha ing it upon the varnish; then give it another
coat of varnish, and when dry, all is complete.

BRONZUVG of fl/ea’alr and Onzamenfs of
Copper, Elertrotyper, eta—I. Having thoroughly
cleaned and polished the surface of the specimen,
with a brush apply the common crocus powder,
previously made into a paste with water. When
dry, place it inan iron ladle, or on a common fire-
shovel, over a clear fire about I minute; and
when sufficiently cool, polish with a plate brush.
By this process a bronze similar to that on tea-
urns is produced; the shade depending upon the
duration ofthe exposure to the fire.

2. By substituting finely-powdered plumbago
for crocus powder in the above process, a beauti-
ful, deep, and permanent bronze appearance is
produced.

3. Rub the medal with a solution of livers of
sul hnr, or sulphuret of potassium, then dry.
This produces the appearance of antique bronze
very exactly.

4. Dissolve 2 oz. of verdigris and I oz. of sal
ammoniac in I pint of vinegar, and dilute the
mixture with water until it tastes but slightly
metallic, when it must be boiled for a few min-
utes, and filtered for use. Cop er medals, etc.,
previously thoroughly cleaned rom grease and
dirt, are to be steeped in the liquor at the boiling
point, until the desired effect is produced. Care
must be taken not to keep them in the solution
too long. When taken out, they should be care-
fully washed in hot water, and well dried. Gives
an antique appearance.

5. (Chinese method.) Make apaste with 2 oz.
each of verdigris and vermilion; 5 oz. each of
alum and 53.1 ammoniac, all in fine powder, and
vinegar q. s.; then spread it over the surface of
the copper, previously well cleaned and bright-
ened, uniformly warm the article by the fire, and
afterwards well wash and dry it, when, if the tint
he not deep enough, the process may be repeated.
The addition of a little blue vitriol inclines the
color to a chestnut brown, and a little borax to a
yellowish brown. Much employed by the Chinese
for copper tea-urns.

6. Dissolve I oz. of sal ammoniac, 3 oz. cream
of tartar, and 6 oz. of common salt, in I pint of
hot water; then add 2 oz. of nitrate of copper,
dissolved in % a pint of water; mix well, and
apply it repeatedly to the article, placed in a damp

 

situation, by means of a brush moistened there.
with. Very antique.

7. Salt of sorrel % oz.; sal ammoniac I oz.;
distilled vinegar 2% pints; dissolve. As last.

BRONZEfor Mortor:.—Copper 93 parts; lead
5 parts; tin 2 parts. The edges and lips of
mortars must be tempered by heating them to a
cherry red, and then plunging them into cold
water; as unless so treated, they are very apt to
be broken.

BRONZE for Ornamental "707% to oe Gilded.
—I. Copper 82 parts; zinc 18 parts; tin 3 parts;
lead 2 parts.

2. Copper 83 parts; zinc 17 parts; tin I part;
lead % part.

BRONZE P0 WDER.— I. (Beautiful red.)
Mix together sulphate of copper 100 parts; car-
bonate of soda 60 parts; apply heat until they
unite into a mass, then cool, powder, and add
copper filings 15 parts; well mix, and keep them
at awhite heat for twenty minutes, then cool,
powder, and wash and dry. >

2. (Gold colored.) Verdigris 8 oz. ; tutty powder
4oz.; borax and nitre, of each 2 oz. ; bichloride of
mercury % oz.; make them into a paste with oil,
and fuse them together. Used in Japanning as a
gold color.

3. Dutch leaf reduced to an impalpable powder
by grinding.

4. (Iron colored.) Plumbago finely powdered.

5. (Silver willie.) Melt together I oz. each of
bismuth and tin, then add I oz. of running quick-
silver; cool and powder.

BRONZEfor Slataary.——I. Copper 88 parts;
tin 9 parts; zinc 2 parts; lead I part.

2. Copper 82% parts; tin 5 parts; zinc to?
parts; lead2 parts. These are very nearlyt e
proportions in the celebrated statue of Louis XV.

3. Copper 90 parts; tin 9 parts; lead I part.

4. Copper 91 parts; tin 9 parts.

BRONZIN G, Smfaee.—This term is applied
to the process of imparting to the surfaces of
figures of wood, plaster of Paris etc., a metallic
appearance. This is done by first giving them a
coat of oil or size varnish, and when this is nearl
dry, applying with a dabber of cotton or a came -
hair pencil, any of the metallic bronze powders;
or the powder may be placed in a little ha of
muslin, and dusted over the surface, and a ter-
wards finished off with a wad of linen. The sur-
face must be afterwards varnished.

Paper is bronzed by mixing the powders up
with a little gum and water, and afterwards
burnishing.

Iron castings may be bronzed by thorough
cleaning, and subsequent immersion in a solution
of sulphate of copper, when they acquire acoat of
the latter metal. They must be then washed in

water. -

BRONZE ( VINE GAR),fl7rBra.rJ-. —Vinegar,
IO gals. ; blue vitriol, 3 lbs. ; muriatic acid, 3 lbs. ;
corrosive sublimate, 4 grs.; sal ammonia, 2 lbs. ;
alum, 8 oz.

BUTCHER KNIVES—In forging out the
knife as you get it near to its proper thickness,
be very careful not to heat it too high, and to
water-hammer as for mill picks; when about to
temper, heat only to a cherry-red and hold it in
such a way that you can hold it plumb as you
put it into the water, which revents it from
springing—put it plumb. into e water and it
will come out straight.

Take it from the water to the fire and pass it

406

through the blaze until alittle hot; then rub a
candle over it upon both sides and back to the
fire, passing it backward and forward, in the
blaze, turning it over often to keep the heat even
over the whole surface, until the tallow passes
off as though it went into the steel; then take
out and rub the candle over it again (on both
sides each time) and back to the fire, passing it
as before, until it starts into a blaze, with a snap,
being careful that the heat is even over the whole
length and width of the tool, then rub the tallow
over it again and back, for 3 times, quickly as it
burns off ; and lastly rub the tallow over it again
‘and push it into the dust of the forge, letting it
remain until cold.

. If these directions are followed with dexterity
you will have the temper alike from edge to
back; and the edge will be the best ever made.

CARA T.—The carat is an imaginary weight,
that expresses the fineness of gold, or the pro-
portion of ure gold in a mass of metal; thus,
an ounce 0 gold is divided into 24 carats, and
gold of 22 carats fine is gold of which 22 parts
out of 24 are pure, the other two parts being sil-
ver, copper, or other metal; the weight of four
grains, used by jewelers in weighing precious
stones and pearls, is sometimes called diamond
weight—the carat consisting of 4 nominal grains,
a little lighter than 4 grains troy, or 74flzs carat
grains being equal to 72 grains troy. The term
or weight carat derives its name from a bean, the
fruit of an Abyssinian tree, called kuara. This
bean, from the time of its being gathered varies
very little in its weight, and seems to have been,
from a very remote period, used as a weight for
gold in Africa. In India also the bean is used
as a weight for gems and pearls.

CASTING Delimte Object: in Mztal, a: done
in Indira—The goldsmiths and silver workers
always prefer the curious clay compound pre-

ared by the white ants, and taken out of their
liuge honeycomb abodes, for forming the tiny
crucibles used in their arts ; it burns beautifully
without cracking, when taken from a proper lo-
cality, but is more frequently found full of grit,
and too friable after repeated washings, to hold
together. The stomachs of these “white ants”
are evidently supplied with a powerful chemical
secretion, and this, doubtless combining with
certain clays and earths, constitutes the useful
crucible product. It burns to a hard white ves-
sel, on which the borax of the artisan gives a
brilliant internal glaze; but this earth is never used
for any but the diminutive melting pots alluded
to. White ants, if they “swarm” or “lodge” for
a short time on sheet glass, corrode the same in
zigzag patterns, as if etched by fluoric acid; oc-
casionally these marks resemble Persian charac-
ters or Egyptian hieroglyphics. Hence some
potent chemical acid enters into their building
composition, of which the tenacity in some coun-
tries, when it has been well kneaded, pounded,
and sun-dried, renders it a fine cheap flooring
for settlers’ houses. It is very generally used in
South Africa.

In casting small articles in brass and the
cheaper metals, they fix the mold with iron wire
to the mouth of the melting pot, well luting the
connections repeatedly with a mixture of stiff clay
and cow-dung kneaded together till quite strong
and safe, gradually warming the luting at the
mouth “ of the furnace, and repairing all cracks
and fissures as they may appear; when thorough-

 

DICTIONARY OFEVERY-DA Y WANTS.

1y dry, the whole mass is put in the rude native
furnace of common clay ; and on the contents of
the melting pot being fused, it is turned gently
“topsy turvy” and the metal runs from its in?
verted mouth into the attached mold. For arti-
cles of ornament and elaborate design, of any
size, even to a field piece; the native workman
makes a composition of two parts “dammar”
resin, and one part beeswax (common resin will
replace the first in America); these are very
slowly and carefully melted over charcoal, and
stirred together (in the open air, and not under
a roof), and when almost hard are molded by the
hands, the lathe, or in metallic shapes. These
models in their turn are then encased in suitable
mold clay, and very carefully and slowly dried in
a shady spot until perfectly hard and seasoned.
The workman then, over charcoal, gently heats
the mold and pours out the composition from the
hole he left as a future “ingate;” when every
particle of the mixture has flowed out into a ves—
sel held to catch it for future use, he increases
his fire till smoke rises from the interior of his
mold, and it is gradually brought to a condition
to receive the molten metal. From an earring
to an idol this is the favorite mm’ur operandi of
casting, and it can be most thoroughly recom-
mended to the ingenious amateur, if he be not
already practicing it. Bismuth is so very highly
priced in India that “fusible metal” is never em-
ployed; the present mode, besides being cheap-
er, gives a sharper casting, especially for small
jewelry, and tiny silver ornaments, to say noth-
ing of avoiding the contamination of precious
metals by the lead of the alloy.

There is great reason for supposing that in the
days of “human sacrifices,” models of the entire
figure were obtained by casts of the victims who
were immolated, in substantial clay coverings,
which, when red hot, were filled with molten
gold or silver, and gave the perfect images re‘
quired by the priesthood. The delicate German
castings of flowers and insects are nowadays cast
in the same fashion—“burning out.” Fish and
reptiles, such as snakes and lizards, may be so
cast very life—like in tin, and afterwards bronzed.

CASTING ZlIETALS, A'nv Pratt's: qfi—
Any design, whether in high or low relief, chased
on metal of any required pattern or shape, whether
flat as a door-plate or round as a vase, can be re-
produced by casting ad infinilum, and each cast—
ing will show upon it all the sharpness of the
original chasing. Molds are made with a pre-
paration of fine cla . The making of one of these
molds takes from ve to ten minutes. They have
then to stand twenty-four hours exposed to dry
air, after which they are baked in a furnace for
eight hours. These clay molds, into which the
metal is afterwards poured, are, to all intents
and purposes, encaustic tiles. The molds are
placed in a box, and the air is extracted from
them so as to form a vacuum, after which the
molten metal is forced into them; and in this
way in ten minutes a casting can be completed.
When the casting is taken out, the design, how-
ever intricate, is found to be perfectly represent-
ed, with the exception of removing a slight sur-
face of clay from it, which can be done in half an
hour, and the article is then ready to be sent to
the bronzer, instead of having to be put in the
chaser’s hands. In this way an enormous amount
of cost and labor on ornamental articles in metal
is saved.

WORKERS IN METALS.

407

 

CAS T INGS, Soldering—First dip the cast-
ings in alcohol, after which, sprinkle muriate of
ammonia (sal-ammoniac) over the surface to be
soldered. Then hold the casting over a charcoal
fire till the sal-ammoniac begins to smoke, then
dip into melted tin (not solder). This repares
the metal for soldering, which can then e done
in the ordinary way. _ '

CA S T JROZV, T o Sqftmlfor Drtl/mg.-.—Heat
to a cherry red, having it ie level in the fire,
then with a pair of cold tongs put on a piece of
brimstone, a little less in size than you Wish the
hole to be when drilled, and it softens entirely
through the piece; let it lie in the fire until a
little cool, when it is ready to drill.

CA S T-IRON, To I/Veld—Take of good clear
white sand, three parts; refined solton, one part;
fosterine, one part; rock-salt, one part; mix all
together. Take 2 pieces of cast-iron, heat them
in a moderate charcoal-fire, occasionally taking
them out while heating, and dipping them into
the composition, until they are of a proper heat
to weld; then at once lay them on the anvil, and

ently hammer them together, and, if done care-
ull by one who understands welding iron, you
wil have them nicely welded together. One man
prefers heating the metal, then cooling it in the
water of common beans, and heat it again for
welding.

CA S T —S T EEL, English—The finest of steel,
called English cast—steel, is (prepared by breaking
to pieces blistered steel, an then melting it in a
crucible with a flux composed of carbonaceous
and vitrifiable ingredients. The vitrifiable ingre-
dient is used only inasmuch as it is a fusible body,
which flows over the surface of the metal in the
crucibles, and prevents the access of the oxygen
of the atmosphere. Broken glass is sometimes
used for this purpose.

When thoroughly fused it is cast into ingots,
which, by gentle heating and careful hammering,
are tilted into bars. By this process the steel
becomes more highly carbonized in proportion to
the uantity of flux, and in consequence is more
bfitfle and fusible than before. Hence it sur-
passes all other steel in uniformity of texture,

ardness, and closeness of grain, and is the ma-
terial employed in all the finestarticles of English
cutler .

CAST-STEEL, To Restore w/zm Burnt.—
Take 1% pounds borax, % pound sal—ammoniac,
% pound prussiate of potash, I ounce rosin.

ound the above fine, add a gill each of water
and alcohol. Put in an iron kettle, and boil until
it becomes a paste. Do not boil too long, or it
will become hard on coolin .

CAST-STEEL and [ROM To Make Edge-
‘taolrfrom. —— This method consists in fixing a
clean piece of wrought iron, brought to a weld-
ing heat, in the center of a mold, and then pour-
ing in melted steel, so as entirely to envelop the
iron; and then forging the mass into the shape
required.

CA SE-HARDENING. —The operation of
giving a surface of steel to pieces of iron, by
which they are rendered capable of receiving
great external hardness, while the interior portion
retains all the toughness of good wrought iron.
Iron tools, fire-irons, fenders, keys, etc., are
usually case-hardened.

I. The goods, finished in every respect but
polishing, are put into an iron box, and covered
with animal or vegetable charcoal, and cemented

 

at a red heat, for a period varying with the size
and description of the articles operated on.

2. Cow’s horn or hoof is to be baked or thor-
oughly dried, and pulverized. To this add an
equal quantity of bay salt; mix them with stale
chamber-lye, or whlte wine vinegar; cover the
iron with this mixture, and bed it in the same in
loam, or inclose it in an iron box; lay it then on
the hearth of the forge to dry and harden ; then
put it into the fire, and blow till the lump have a
blood-red heat, and no higher, lest the mixture be
burnt too much. Take the iron out, and immerse
it in water to harden.

3. The iron, previously polished and finished,
is to be heated to a bright red and rubbed or
sprinkled over with prussiate of potash. As soon
as the prussiate appears to be decomposed and
dissipated, plunge the article into cold water.

4. Make a paste with a concentrated solution
of prussiate of potash and loam, and coat the iron
therewith; then expose it to a strong red heat,
and when it has fallen to a dull red, plunge the
whole into cold water.

CASE SPRINGS, for Watcher, To Tem-
per.—Having fitted the spring in the case ac-
cording to your liking, temper it hard by heating
and plunging into water. Next polish the small
end so that you may be able to see when the
color changes; lay it on a piece of copper or
brass plate, and hold the plate over your lamp,
with the blaze directly under the largest part of
the spring. Watch the polished part of the steel
closely, and when you see it turn blue remove
the plate from the lamp, letting all cool gradual-
ly together. When cool enough to handle polish
the end of the spring again, place it on the plate
and hold over the lamp as before. The third
bluing of the polished end will leave the spring
in proper temper.’ Any steel article to which
you desire to give a spring temper may be treat-
ed in the same way.

Another process said to be good is to temper
the spring as in the first instance ; then put it
into a small iron ladle, cover it with linseed oil
and hold over a lamp till the oil takes fire. Re-
move the ladle, but let the oil continue to burn
until nearly all consumed, when blow out, re-
cover with oil and hold over the lamp as before.
The third burning out of the oil will leave the
spring in the right temper.

CL [(5, To Clean and Retain—Take the
movement of the clock “to pieces.” Brush the
wheels and pinions thoroughly with a stiff,
coarse brush; also the plates into which the trains
work. Clean the pivots well by turning in a
piece of cotton cloth held tightly between your
thumb and finger. The pivot holes in the plates
are generally cleansed by turning a piece of wood
into them, but it will be found that astrip of cloth
or a soft cord drawn tightly through them will act
the best. If you use two cords, the first one
slightly oiled, and the next dry to clean the oil
out, all the better. Do not use salt or acid to
clean your clock—it can do no good, but may do
a great deal of harm. Boiling the movement in
water, as some practice, is also foolishness.

The holes through which the great arbors, or
winding axles work, are the only ones that usu-
ally require bushing. When they have become
too much worn the great wheel on the axle before
named strikes too deeply into the pinions above
it, and stops the clock. To remedy this bushing
is necessary, of course. The most common way

408

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

' of doing it is to drive a steel point or punch into
the plate just above the axle hole, thus forcing
the brass downward until the hole is reduced to
its original size. Another mode is to solder a
piece of brass upon the plate in such a position
as to hold the axle down to its proper place. If
you simply wish your clock to run, and have no
ambition to produce a bush that will look work-
manlike, about as good a way as any is to fit
apiece of hard wood between the post which
comes through the top of the plate and the axle.
Make it long enough to hold the axle to its
proper place and so that the axle will run on the
end of the grain. Cut notches where the pivots
come through, and secure by wrapping around it
and the plate a piece of small wire, or a thread.
There is no post coming through above the axle
on the striking side, but this will rarely require
bushing.

To remedy worn pinions turn the leaves or
rollers so the worn places upon them will be
towards the arbor or shaft, and fasten them in
that position. If they are “rolling pinions,” and
you cannot secure them otherwise, you had better
do it with a little soft solder.

Oil only, and very lightly, the pallets of the
verge, the steel pin upon which the verge works,
and the point where the loop of the verge wire
works over the pendulum wire. Use none but
the best watch oil. Many jobs of clock cleaning
are spoiled by oiling all the pivots and probably
the pinions. The doing of this causes their accu-
mulation of dust, and this dust mixing with the
oil, by grinding together increases the friction
of the parts, and sooner or later, the stoppage of
the clock. We often hear persons complaining
of their clocks stopping in cold weather—in nine
cases out of ten the cause may be attributed to
this very injudicious use of oil. A gum has
formed on the pivots or pinions, or both, which
stifl'ens under the influence of the cold, and, of
course, stops the movement. But this is not the
only bad result. A clock grinding along in con-
sequence of having been improperly oiled, will
wear out in less than half the time that it would
under other circumstances. The reason in this
must be apparent to all—each pivot or each
pinion leaf has been converted, as it were, into a
grindstone.

If not very cautious in putting up your clock
you will get some of the striking-train wheels in
wrong, and thus produce a derangement in the
striking. If this should happen, prize the plates
apart on the striking side, slip the pivots of the
upper wheels out, and having disconnected them
from the train, turn them part around and put
them back. If still not right, repeat theVexperi-
ment. A few efforts at most will get them to
working properly.

Always examine the pendulum wire at the
point where the loop of the verge wire works
over it. You will generally find a small notch,
or at least a rough place, worn there. Dress it
out perfectly smooth, or your clock will not be
likely to work well. Small as this defect may
seem, it stops a large number of clocks.

COINS etc., To take [mpresrz'omfrom.—Make
a thick solution of isiuglass in water, and lay it
hot on the metal; let it remain for twelve hours,
then remove it, breathe on it and apply gold or
silver-leaf on the wrong side. Any color may be
given to the isinglass instead of gold or silver,
by simple mixture. .

 

COPPER, To W/ziz‘en T Izroug/zout.— Take
thin plates of capper, as thin as a knife, heat them
six or seven times, and quench them in water;
then melt them, and to each pound add 4 ounces
of sal'tpetre and 4 ounces of arsenic, well powder-
ed and mixed, and first melted apart in another
crucible, by gentle degrees ; then take themput,
and powder them; then take Venetian borax and
white tartar, of each an ounce and ahalf; then
melt these, with the former powder, in a crucible,
and pour them out into some iron receiver; it
will appear as clear as crystal, and is called
crystal/Baum fixum arsemrum. Of this clear
matter, broken into little pieces, throw into the
melted copper (by small pieces at a time, staying
five or six minutes between each injection) 4 02.;
when all is thrown in, increase the fire, till all be
well melted together for a quarter of an hour;
then pour it out into an ingot.

COPPER SOLUTION for 811115131. — To
every gallon of saturated solution of sulphate of
copper, add 2% ounces of strong sulphuric acid
and % drachm white arsenic. If single cell,
place a bag of sulphate in the solution just below
the surface, to keep up the strength.

C OPPER Pawder.—This is prepared by dis-
solving filings or slips of copper with nitrous
acid in a receiver. When the acid is saturated,
the sli s are to be removed; or, if filings be em-
ploye , the solution is to be poured off from
what remains undissolved. Small bars are then
put in, which will precipitate the copper-powder
from the saturated acid; and, the liquid being
poured from the powder, this is to be washed
clean of the crystals by repeated waters.

COPPER, To Tin for Stm-Dz'r/m or ot/zer
Purposes.-—Wash the surface of the article to be
tinned, with sulphuric acid; and rub the surface
well, so as to have it smooth and free of black-
ness caused by the acid; then sprinkle calcined
and finely pulverized sal-ammoniac upon the
surface, holding it over a fire where it will be-
come sufficiently hot to melt a bar of solder
which is to be rubbed over the surface; if a stew-
dish put the solder into it and swab it about
when melted. You will wipe off any surplus
solder, and also for the purpose of smoothing
the surface, by means of a tow or cotton swab,
tied or tacked to a rod. In this way any dish or
copper article may be nicely tinned.

C OPPER, To Shun—Silver dust (fine),
one ounce; common salt and sal ammoniac, of
each four ounces; corrosive sublimate, a quarter
of an ounce. Mix. The copper must be pre-
viously well ckaned by friction, adding a little
warm water to form a paste.

COPPER, To 0217032? upon Cart-imm—The
pieces of cast-iron are first placed in a hath made
of 50 parts of hydrochloric acid, at 159 Beaumé
(sp. gr., 1.105), and I part of nitric acid; next,
in a second bath, composed of to parts of nitric
acid, 10 parts of chloride of copper, dissolved in
80 parts of the same hydrochloric acid as just
alluded to. The objects are rubbed with a
woolen rag and a soft brush, next washed with
water, and again immersed until the desired
thickness of cop er is deposited. When it is
desired to give t e appearance of bronze, the
coppered surface is rubbed with a mixture of 4
parts of sal ammoniac and I each of oxalic and
acetic acids dissolved in 30 parts of water.

COPPER and BRASS, To Tim—Boil 6
lbs. of cream of tartar, 4 gals. of water, and 8

 

o

WORKERS IN METALS.

lbs. of grain-tin, or tin shavings. After the ma-
terials have boiled a sufficient time, the substance
to be tinned is put therein and the boiling con-
tinued, when the tin is precipitated in its metallic
form.

COPPER, BRASS ANDIROJV, To Tin in
tit: roldmm’ wit/tout A pparalzm—The requisites
for accomplishing this object are: Ist. .The ob-
ject to be coated with tin must be entirely free
from oxide. It must be carefully cleaned, and
care be taken that no grease spots are left; it
makes no difference whether the object be
cleaned mechanically or chemically. 2d. Zinc
powder; the best is that prepared artificially by
melting zinc and pouring it into an iron mortar.
It can be easily pulverized immediately after sol-
idification; it should be about as fine as writing
sand. 3d. A solution of protochloride of tin,
containing 5 to to per cent., to which as much
pulverized cream of tartar must be added as will
go on the point of a knife. The object to be
tinned is moistened with the tin solution, after
which it is rubbed hard with the zinc powder.
The tinning appears at once. The tin salt is de-
composed by the zinc, metallic tin being depos-
ited. When the object tinned is polished brass
or Copper, it appears as beautiful as if silvered,
and retains its luster for a long time. The author
uses this method in his laboratory to preserve his
iron, steel and copper apparatus from rust. This
method would become of great importance if the
tinning could be made as thick as in the dry way,
but this has not as yet been accomplished.

COPPER and BRA SS, T o Coat will; Zinc.
—In order to do this, it is simply necessary to
immerse the articles in a boiling bath of 5211 am-
moniac containing zinc-foil or powdered zinc.
'fll‘he deposit thus made is brilliant and adheres

rmly.

COPPER and BRA SS (Polk/zed). T a Clean.
—Copper tea-kettles, boilers, and other house-
hold articles having polished surfaces should not
be allowed to get rusty, as rust will destroy more
of the metal than is used up by the ordinary
wear of the utensils. If the surface be rubbed
but a little every day, the labor of keeping them
bright will be very light. In case a rust has
formed on the surface, apply a solution of oxalic
acid, which, well rubbed over tarnished copper
or brass, will soon remove e tarnish, rendering
the metal bright. The aci must be washed off
with water, and the surface rubbed with whiten-
ing and soft leather. A mixture of muriatic acid
and alum, dissolved in water, imparts a golden
. color to brass articles that are steeped in it for a
few seconds. To give a finer polish, go over
the surface of the metal with rotten-stone and
sweet-oil; then rub off with a piece of cotton
flannel and polish it with soft leather.

01.4 M OgVDS, Imitation. —— Imitation dia<
monds are plenty enough, and in their fabrication
considerable skill is often displayed, and the im.
itation is at times very clever; it appears, how-
ever, that there is a prospect that real diamonds
will eventually be manufactured. Hitherto
though chemists have had no difficulty in dis-
covering of what diamonds were composed, they
have never succeeded in producing them. Dia-
monds are chemically the same as charcoal, and
they may be readily converted into it, but the
more satisfactory transmutation of charcoal into
diamonds proved a most tantalizing mystery. At
last we hear of the secret being discovered, and

 

40.9

the discoverer, instead of privately profiting by it,
makes it public. It is said to be simply this:
If. a current of chlorine be made to pass through
cast-iron, when in a state of fusion, perchloride
of iron is formed, which disappears by evapor-
ation, leaving the carbon of the metal at liberty
in acrystallized state, forming either black, color-
less or colored diamonds.

DIN 0F SHOPS, To Prevent—A rubber
cushion under the leg of work-benches in manu-
factories, is a cheap relief from the deafening din
of noisy shops. Chambers’ Journal describes a
factory where the hammering of fifty copper-
smiths was scarcely audible in the room below,
their benches having under each leg a rubber
cushion. 'We have seen the same effect pro-
duced by standing the legs of the bench in nail~
kegs filled with sand, by which means ail vibra-
tion and shock was prevented.

DRILLS and GRA VERS, To Temper.—
When the graver or drill is too hard, which
may be known by the frequent breaking of the
point, temper as follows : Heat a poker red hot,
and hold the graver to it within an inch of the
point, waving it to and fro till the steel changes to
a light straw color; then put the point into oil
to cool, or hold the graver close to the flame of a‘
candle till it be of the same color and cool in
tallow; but be careful either way not to hold it
too long, for then it will be too soft, in which
case the point will be blue, and must be broken
off and whetted and tempered anew.

DRILLS, (jewellefs), To Temper.—Select
none but the finest and best steel for your drills.
In making them never heat higher than a cherry
red, and always hammer till nearly cold. Do all
your hammering in one way, for if, after you have
flattened your piece out, you attempt to hammer
it back to a square or a round you spoil it.
When your drill is in proper shape heat it to a
cherry red, and thrust it into a piece of resin, or
into quicksilver.

ELAINE, To oétaz'n Puma—Olive oil, I part;
alcohol, 9 parts. Mix and heat to the boiling
point, in a close vessel, then allowit to cool, and
place it in a freezing mixture until the whole of
the stearine is deposited, then decant the clear
and distill off the alcohol in awater-bath, the
remainder will be pure elaine. This elaine or
pure oil will not freeze in frosty weather, and
neither thickens nor corrodes when applied to
metals. It is a perfect cure for “lame” chrono-
meters, watches, &c.

ELECTRO-COPPERING.— Make a strong
solution of sulphate of copper (boiling water will
dissolve the most) and strain it. Connect to the
wire from the zinc pole of the battery, a clean
plate of copper, and place it in the solution.
Suspend from a rod across the top of the bath,
by means of wire, the articles to be coppered,
care being taken that they do not touch each
other, and connect this rod with the other pole
of the battery. Smee’s battery and the electro-
poion battery are the best for this kind of work.

ELECTRO-GILDl/VG and SH, VERING.
—T/¢e Gold Bat/z.-——Gilding can be done either
hot or cold; in each case the composition of the
bath is the same, only the gilding with a warm
bath is generally richer in tone, and may some-
times render coloring unnecessary. With a cold
bath, necessitated b the difficulty of heating
large masses of liqui for the production of bulky
articles, colon'ng is always indispensable. gGild-V

4x0

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

ing by cold baths has nearly disappeared from
workshops where steam is employed.

The baths are formed of double cyanide of
gold and potassium. Dissolve 2 oz. of gold in
agua regia; evaporate the solution to a sirupy
consistence; redissolve it in warm water, and add,
little by little, 2% lbs. of cyanide of potassium,
previously dissolved in water. This will make
about thirteen gallons of bath. It is best not to
employ it until it has been boiled several hours.
The most suitable temperature for the bath, when
in operation, is 160° F ahr.

Immerse in the bath a plate of gold put in
communication with the positive pole, and which
serves to feed the bath continually. In proportion
as the gold is deposited upon the object to be
gilt placed at the negative pole, a nearly equal
quantity‘ of gold is dissolved at the positive pole,
and maintains the bath in the same state of
saturation.

By this arrangement the cold baths acquire great
durability; it is also applied to warm baths, but
they deteriorate very quickly. The cyanide of

otassium is destroyed by a prolonged, boiling.

he electric current is furnished by a Bunscn’s
battery, the number of cells being regulated by
the nature of the article to be gilt.

Before putting the articles into the bath, they
are rinsed in alcohol, in order to dissolve the
greasy matters by which they are soiled; next
into a bath of dilute nitric acid; then into a bath
of acid nitrate of mercury, strength 4 per cent.;
and lastly, rinsed in abundance of water; the
articles are then ready to be immersed in the
gold bath. The time of the immersion varies
- according to the thickness to be given to the
coating, and is in direct proportion with the
weight of gold deposited.

To ascertain the weight of gold deposited,
two weighings are necessary; the first, when the
articles are about to be put into the bath; the
second, upon the gilt and dried articles.

All the metals gild equally well in the above
bath, but steel requires a more concentrated
solution, or, what is better, a previous coppering
in an alkaline bath. Aluminum can not be gilt
directly; it must be coppered also. In this case,
an acid copper bath is best for the purpose.

Reremes.— By means of reserves we may ob-
tain various artistic effects, for which taste is the
only guide. The most suitable varnish for this
kind of work is composed of copal varnish, oil,
and chromate of lead. This varnish is applied
with a hair-pencil to all those parts of the article
where it is not wished that the metal should be
deposited. When it is allowed to dry properly,
it is not attacked by acid or alkaline solutions.
It is completely dissolved by essence of turpen-
tine or light coal-oil.

Green and Red Gildz'ng.-— We may obtain
green gold and red gold directly by the battery.
For green gold, a solution of the double cyanide
of silver and potassium is added to the gold bath
until the desired color is obtained; then we
operate with an anode of gold alloy. In this
process, as in all those which have for their aim
the deposit of metallic alloys, it is very important
to well proportion experimentally the surface of
the anode to that of the article to be gilt. To
obtain red gold, a solution of cyanide of potassium
and copper is added to the gold bath. But the
result is obtained more easily with the mixture
formerly employed by the mercury-gilders, which

 

consisted of 25 parts of acetate of copper, 65 of
cream of tartar, and to of table-salt, applied with
a softbrush. The articles are heated over charcoal
until the salts assume a brownish color; they are
then cooled in water acidulated with nitric acid.

Upon removal from the gold bath, the articles
are generally of a tarnished color, in which state
they are unfit for sale. They have, therefore, to
undergo several operations with the scratch-brush,
and coloring and burnishing.

Polishing—This operation is erformed with
a scratch-brush of brass wire, t e diameter of
which varies according to the delicacy of the
article. It is always performed under a liquid
—generally licorice - water—the object of which
is to form a light mucilage, which admits of the
scratch-brush rubbing the gilt article less roughly.

For smooth surfaces, the hand-labor is re-
placed by the wheel. Upon an axle revolving
600 times a minute a mandrel of copper is mount-
ed, furnished with a brass wire brush; a reservoir
above constantly supplies the brush with the
mucilaginous liquid, which flows into a lower
receptacle. One workman can accomplish as
much with the wheel as ten without it.

Coloring is performed by means of a mixture
called ormolu, and composed of 30 parts of alum,
30 of nitrate of potassa, 30 of red ochre, 80f
sulphate of zinc, I of common salt and I of sul-
phate of iron. It is applied with a soft brush.
The articles are placed over a clear charcoal fire
until the salts, melted and dried, assume abrown
aspect; they are then suddenly cooled in nitric
acid water containing 3 per cent. of hydrochloric
acid; afterwards washed in abundance of water
and dried with sawdust.

Bumz’r/u'ng is effected by means of hard stones
—agates, hematites—mounted in strong wooden
handles, or with tools of highly-polished steel.

Flat Gildz'ng.— Starting with the principle,
“As is the surface so is the gilding,” if we can
obtain a perfectly mat surface before gilding, it
is evident that we shall have very little to do in
order to retain this aspect after gilding. The
result has been obtained by previously depositing
a mat coating of a less costly metal than gold,
the deposit of which can be easily regulated.

Silver and copper equally accomplish this aim.
The silvering is performed in baths, which will
be described elsewhere; only the silver bath
must not contain mor than eight grains of silver
per 1000, and the deposit must be made slowly
with a very weak current. , The coppering is
performed in the usual baths of sulphate of copper,
after a first coating given in the alkaline copper
bath. The time of immersion and the energy of
the pile are conditions which a little practice will
soon teach.

The articles being perfectly mat, are conve ed
to a more dilute gold bath than that prescri ed
above, which is worked warm. It must not
contain more than five grains per 1000. It is
important to continually move the articles about
in the bath, and to maneuvre the anode so as to
render the color uniform. Gilding upon copper,
less costly than gilding upon silver, is usually
of an inferior tone of color, and more liable to
oxidize; so the latter metal is generally pre-
ferred.

The metals deposited under the influence of
the electric battery do not always present the
same physical characters. .

Sometimes the deposit is rough and brittle, at

_ WORKERS IN METALS.

4n

 

others soft and flexible; sometimes it possesses
intermediate qualities, and is as perfect in its

hysical properties as the best rolled copper;
lastly it may be deposited under the form of a
non-adherent crystalline powder.

These different molecular states depend on the
relations which must exist among the four fol-
lowing conditions : Ist, the proportions of the
two electrodes; 2d, the strength of the solutions;
3d, the temperature at which the operation is
carried on; 4th, the intensity of the pile.

In all cases, it is important that the relative
surfaces of the anode and the articles in com-
munication with the negative pole be nearly
equal. A positive electrode larger than the
negative electrode tends to produce a crystalline
deposit, which may extend to the pulverulent
state, if the difference in their dimensions is very
considerable. By working with a too concen-
trated solution, the deposit is rough and brittle;
increasing the intensity of the battery will restore
the deposit to its normal state.

If the bath be too weak, or the temperature be
too low, the deposit slackens, and assumes a
crystalline appearance, which may be easily made
to disappear by raising the temperature, or by
diminishing the intensity of the pile. If the
temperature be too high, the deposit will become

ulverulent. This may be remedied by dimin-
lshing the power of the pile employed. The
regulation of the intensity of the current is, in
most cases, the remedy to apply to the accidents
that occur.

Therefore, it is on the perfect equilibrium
among these four conditions that the galvanic
precipitation of a metal with all its special quali-
ties of ductility and malleability depends. The
operator soon acquires the means of working
satisfactorily.

In those cases in which a simple cell is em-
ployed, the success of the operation depends on
the relation between the zinc surfaces and the
number of articles to be coated.

With perfectly saturated solutions and a weak
current, success is certain.

ELE C TKO-FLA TING BrasrorZincwz'l/zout
a Battery—Take a cold, saturated solution of
cupric sulphate, (blue vitriol,) and pour in a so-
lution of potassic cyanide, till the precipitate first
formed is.dissolved again. After the liquid has
become clear, add one tenth to one fifth of its
volume of liquid ammonia, and dilute with water till
Beaumé’s hydrometer for heavy liquids indicates
8°, corresponding with a specific gravity of I.o6.
As during this operation the very poisonous
hydrocyanic (prussic) acid is developed, in the
form of vapor, it is necessary to perform it either
in the open air, or under a flue with good draught,
and to avoid the fumes.

Then take the zinc objects, and clean them with
diluted sulphuric acid, pumice-stone and sand,
wash them with water, and place them for twenty-
four hours in the above-described liquid. After
which, when taken out and washed with water,
they will be found covered with a film of
copper.

In order to cover with brass, pour into a
saturated solution of equal parts of cupric and
zincic sulphate (blue and white vitriol) the solu-
tion of potassic cyanide, until the precipitate is
dissolved again, and add the same quantity of
ammonia as before—one tenth to one fifth. If a
pale brass is desired, take two parts of zincic

 

sulphate to one of cupric sulphate, (vitriol,) and
proceed as already described.

In case zinc objects are to be gilded, it is
necessary to cover them first with copper, on
which the gold deposits better than on zinc. It
is the same with iron objects. This metal, how- v
ever, is much more easily covered with copper
than zinc is, iron requiring only an immersion in
a solution of cupric sulphate.

ELE C T [BO-FLA TING Glass fllzrrorr. —
The platinized mirrors are not electro-plated, the
platinum solution is simply put on the glass and
the metal precipitated by heat and purely chemical
action. To make the solution, take chloride of
platinum, and if you can not obtain it from some
chemist, you may easily make it by dissolving
half an ounce of platinum in aqua regia and
evaporating to dryness in order to remove all
excess of acid, applying only a moderate heat
in order not to reduce the platinum back to its
metallic state. This chloride of platinum is then
rubbed up on a glass plate.with oil of lavender,
adding the oil carefully little by little so as not
to cause the mixture to become too hot, which
would result in a failure. After adding nearly
two ounces of oil, the mixture is left. for two
weeks to settle, when the liquid is poured off
from the sediment and filtered. After another
week’s rest, I drachm of litharge and I drachm
of borate of lead are rubbed up with I scruple of
lavender oil, and this mixture added to the
platinum mixture only as it is to be used. The
mixture is then put on the glass and gradually
dried, when the glass is introduced into a properly
constructed furnace, similar to a muflie furnace;
at the red heat the oil is decomposed, its carbon
and hydrogen reduces the platinum to the metallic
state, and mingling with the easily fusible lead
and borax glass formed on the surface, melts into
the surface of the glass plate and forms the pla-
tinum mirror, so much admired for their property
of reflecting light from both sides, while at the
same time they are transparent enough to make
strongly illuminated objects visible through them.
As it takes for every square foot scarcely 1 grain
of platinum, it is seen that the coating is very
thin, showing the great divisibility of this metal;
and as I grain of platinum costs less than 2
cents, the process is not expensive, the labor and
other materials used amounting to more than the
expense of the platinum.

ELECTRO-PLA TING Silt/tron [ram—The
common practice among electro-platers is to
immerse the steel or iron, first in a bath of
sulphate of copper, and connect it for a short
time with a not too strong battery, so as to ob-
tain a thin, even filmof metallic copper. On this
the silver may then easily be deposited.

ELECTRO-PLA TING German Silver on
otlzer Meta/s.—Take the chlorides of the three
metals which constitute German silver and mix
them in proportion as they are in that alloy ; that
is, for the basest: I nickel, 4zinc, and 5 copper;
for the best or imitation silver of Frick: 3 nickel,
2 zinc, and 8 copper; and the Chinese white
copper: 6 nickel, 5 zinc, and 8 copper; all other
German silver alloys are between these, so it
will be seen that a wide latitude exists. These
chlorides are made by dissolving the respective
metals in hydrochloric acid, and driving off the
excess by a moderate heat. When dissolved in
water, a concentrated solution of cyanide of potas-
sium is added, and in this way the cyanides of the

4:2

DICTIONARY 0F EVER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

metals are formed which precipitate, and are re-
dissolved again by adding morc of the cyanide
solution. We thus obtain a solution of the cya-
nides of the metals in cyanide of potassium, the
same as was obtained in the solution for electro-
plating brass. The solution is then moderately
heated in a Cast-iron vessel, and the objects to be
plated suspended in the same after having been
carefully cleaned and connected with the zinc
pole of the battery ; on the other pole of the

attery, of course, a plate of German silver is
suspended, of a similar alloy in order to keep the
solution uniform, as from this plate the same
amount is dissolved as is deposited on the ob-
jects plated.

ELE C T RO-PLA TING, Gola’ solution for.—
Dissolve five pennyweights gold coin, five grains
pure copper and four grains pure silver in three
ounces nitromuriatic acid; which is simply two
parts muriatic acid and one part nitric acid. The
silver will not be taken into solution as are the
other two metals, but will gather at the bottom
of the vessel. Add one ounce pulverized sul-
phate of iron, half an ounce pulverized borax,
twenty-five grains pure table salt, and one quart
hot rain water. Upon this the gold and copper
will be thrown to the bottom of the vessel with
the silver. Let stand till fully settled, then pour
off the liquid carefully, and refill with boiling
rain water as before. Continue to repeat this
operation until the precipitate is thoroughly
washed; or, in other words, fill up, let settle,
and pour off so long as the accumulation at the
bottom of the vessel is acid to the taste.

You now have about an eighteen carat chloride
of gold. Add to it an ounce and an eighth cyanu-
ret potassa, and one quart rain water—the latter
heated to the.boiling point. Shake up well, then
let stand about twenty-four hours and it will be
ready for use.

Some use platina as an alloy instead of silver,
under the impression that plating done with it is
harder. I have used both, but never could see
much difference.

Solution 'for a darker colored plate to imitate
Guinea gold may be made by adding to the above
one ounce of dragon’s blood and five grains iodide
of iron.

If you desire an alloyed plate, proceed as first
directed, without the silver or copper, and with
an ounce and a half of sulphuret potassa in place
of the iron, borax and salt.

ELE C T RO-PLA TING, Silver solution for.
—Put together into a glass vessel, one ounce good
silver, made thin and cut into strips; two ounces
best nitric acid and half an ounce pure rain water.
If solution does not begin at once, add a little
more water—continue to add a very little at a
time till it does. In the event it starts off well,
but stops before the silver is fully dissolved, you
may generally start it up again all right by add-
ing a little more water.

When solution is entirely effected, add one

uart of warm rain water and a large tablespoon-
flul of table salt. Shake well and let settle, then
proceed to pour off and wash through other
waters as in the case of the gold preparation.
When no longer acid to the taste, put in an ounce
and an eighth cyanuret potassa and a quart pure
rain water ; after standing about twenty-four
hours it will be ready for use.

ELECTRO-PLA TED GOODS, To remove
T ands/z from—Make a solution of half a. pound

 

cyanuret potassa in two gallons rain water. Im-
merse the article till the tarnish has disappeared,
then rinse off carefully in three or four waters,
and dry in sawdust.

ELECTROTYPING.—The object sought to
be attained by electrotyping is, by means of the
action of the electricity generated by a alvanic
pile or battery, to precipitate a metal rom its
solution upon a given subject in a continuous uni-
form coating, so that this coating is an exact copy
of all the details on the surface of the object.
This coating may be adherent when it is desired
to protect an inferior metal by a superior, as when
copper is plated with silver; or the coating may
be non-adherent when deposited in a mould, as
in the reproduction of antique bronzes, etc.

The electric current employed is usually sup-
plied by the “constant battery.” known as
Daniell’s, or by a Bunsen’s battery. The ap-
paratus is either simple or compound. In a.
simple apparatus, the mould, the object upon
which the precipitated metal must be deposited,
forms an essential portion of the electric current.
In a compound apparatus, the battery is outside
the bath to be decomposed, and the mould is
connected with the zinc pole; the copper or carbon
pole is connected with the bath. The advantage
derived from employing a compound apparatus
consists in its enabling the operator to attach to
the copper pole a soluble electrode, or anode:
that is, a plate of the same metal as is held in
solution in the bath, which plate becomes dis-
solved in nearly the same ratio as the metal is
deposited upon the mould.

The electrotype apparatus is termed trim/)1:
when the galvanic current is produced in the same
vessel as that in which the metallic deposit is
effected. It is most frequently employed to ob-
tain deposits of copper; but when deposits ofthe
precious metals are required, the compound ap-
paratus is preferred.

Into any suitable vessel, which may be of glass,
earthenware, stoneware or wood, put the solution
of the metal to be deposited—sulphate of copper,
(blue vitriol,) for example—with which to cover
the moulds with copper. Another vessel, of
much smaller diameter, is placed in the center of
the first vessel; it must be of porous material—-
unglazed porcelain, for instance. Sulphuric acid,
diluted with from twelve to fifteen times its
weight of water, is poured into the smaller vessel,
and a plate or cylinder of amalgamated zinc sus-
pended in it. The moulds are put in communi-
cation with the zinc by means of a copper wire.
The solution becomes exhausted of its copper in
proportion as it is deposited on the moulds, and
must be renewed by StISpending a bag of crystals
of sulphate of copper in the bath.

When operations are carried on upon a large
scale, the apparatus may be constructed in the
following manner: a box of any required dimen-
sions constructed of elm, oak, or any hard wood,
is coated inside with pitch, marine glue, or gutta-
percha. The box is divided into two compart-
ments by a porous partition or diaphragm, which
may be made of plaster of Paris or of parchment.
If of plaster, it must not be more than half an
inch in thickness, so that the intensity of the
current may be diminished as little as possible.

The first compartment is nearly filled With a
cold saturated solution of sulphate of copper, or
of any other salt which it is intended to ecom-
pose. Into this solution the moulds are sus.

WORKERS 12V METALS.

pended near the diaphragm. The second com-

artment is filled with water slightly ac1dulated,
in which a plate of zinc, presenting a surface
nearly equal to that of the mould, is suspended,”
about half an inch from the diaphragm. When
matters are thus arranged, connection is estab-
lished by means of a copper wire betweenthe
moulds and the zinc. As soon as the circuit is
closed, an electric current results, in consequence
of which the zinc becomes the positive pole, and
the mould the negative pole; the sulphate of
copper is decomposed, the sulphuric acid and the
oxygen go to the zinc, which 15 dissolved; the
hydrogen of the decomposed water then reduces
the copper, which is deposited at the negative
pole. The solution is kept inastate of satu-
ration, as in the preceding case. The tem-
perature should be maintained between 104°
and 107° Fahr., to avoid crystallization; and as
saturation is always more complete at the bottom
of the vessel than at the top, the mould must be
turned from time to time quickly, to prevent
oxidation. _

Another inconvenience is the unequal thick-
ness of the deposit, always more abundant at
the extreme opposite to the oint of connection
than at the point itself. T is inconvenience is
remedied by placing several conducting-wires
along both ends of the mould, taking care to
turn back those which are fixed to the lower edge.

The apparatus is compound when the galvanic
current is produced outside the bath containing
the solution to be decomposed. In this arrange-
ment a current of any degree of strength maybe
employed, according to the size and number of
cells forming the battery.

ELECT]? TYPING, Daniell": Bafteryfizr.
-—-The batteri 5 generally employed are those of
Daniell and Bunsen. The Daniell battery, as
improved, consists of a copper vessel, about 7
in. in height, 5% in. in width, and % of an in.
in thickness, furnished with two appendages,
forming a beveled pocket, communicating with
the interior of the vessel by numerous apertures,
and filled with crystals of sulphate of copper. A
saturated solution of sulphate of copper is poured
into the vessel, into which a linen bag is im-
mersed, containing a plate of zinc, 4% inches
wide. By means of two screws, the conducting
wires may be adjusted to the poles, or the zinc
element may be attached to the succeeding cop-
per element.

Bumm’: Batte;y.———This, like Daniell’s, is a
constant battery. It is composed of a cylinder
of amalgamated zinc, placed in an earthenware
or glass vessel, containing diluted sulphuric acid.
This cylinder surrounds a porous vessel, which
contains a cylinder of carbon, di ping into nitric
acid. T o the upper portion 0 the zinc a strip
of copper is soldered, the conical extremity of
which fits tightly into an aperture pierced in the
upper portion of the carbon of the adjoining
element. By these means communication be-
tween the elements is established.

The negative pole is always at the extremity
of the pile terminated by the zinc; the positive
pole at the other extremity.

The best proportions of water and sulphuric
acid to employ to form the acidulated water in
which the zinc is immersed are one part acid to
nine parts water. The nitric acid surrounding
the carbon must be concentrated, but not fuming.

Smee’: Bat!ery.—This form of constant bat-

 

413

tery is mostly employed in the production and'
duplicating of copper plates. The voltaic couple
consists of a p ate of platinized silver placed
between two surfaces of amalgamated zinc. The
silver communicates by a wire with the positive
pole of the decomposing apparatus, or the anode,
which must be of equal surface with the mould.
The zinc is connected by a wire, fastened by a
screw to the mould placed at the negative pole
of the decomposing apparatus. The voltaic ap.
paratus must be charged with sulphuric acid
diluted with fifteen or sixteen times its weight
of water.

The decomposing apparatus may be either
vertical or horizontal. If the latter, the mould
must be placed at the bottom, else the deposit
of cop er will not be of uniform hardness. The
vertica form is considered best for slow deposit;
the horizontal is more appropriate for a rapid
deposit of copper.

When the apparatus is filled with liquid, take
a piece of copper of the same dimensions as the
plate to be moulded or copied, and put it in
communication with the silver of the battery.
The battery being charged, the vessel filled with
the solution, and the piece of copper to be dis-
solved (anode) being immersed in the solution
and connected with the silver of the battery, the
wire which is soldered to the plate or mould on
which the deposit is to be made is put into com-
munication with the zinc of the battery, and the
operator must take especial care not to immerse
this plate or mould in the solution until the last
thing, in order to complete the circuit with it.
These arrangements being roperly made, we
see a deposit of pure copper ormed, which does
not adhere to the original plate, on account of
the film of air which separates them, or the very
thin coating of wax with which the plate has
been previously rubbed.

Definition of t/ze Electric C urrmt.—-—\Vhen the
opposite poles of an electric pile are connected
by a good conductor—as a copper wire, for ex-
ample, the electricities are set in motion in the
wire. The positive electricity passes from the
positive to the negative pole, the negative elec-
tricity travels in the opposite direction. It will
be perceived that there are two currents of elec-
tricity. To designate the direction in which they
travel, it is only necessary simply to indicate the
path the positive electricity takes; it being un-
derstood that the negative electricity takes the
opposite direction.

C/zemz’ml Eflect of the Bat!ery.—If we attach
a metallic wire to one of the poles, and a second
wire to the other pole, and then immerse these
two conductors (electrodes) in a saline solution
——5ulphate of copper, for example—taking care
that the wires do not touch, we perceive that the
metal of the salt in solution becomes deposited
upon the negative electrode: the other elements
of the salt go to the positive electrode.

The same experiment performed upon an al-
kaline or earthy salt, placed in solution in a U
tube, gives the alkali at the negative pole and the
acid at the positive pole.

From this it appears that the salts do not all
behave in the same manner under the influence
of the electric current; but the difference in the
results observed is not due to a difference in the
action of the current; it arises from the oxidiza—
bility of the alkaline and earthy metals, which,
upon their arrival at the negative pole, decompose

414
the water and become oxidized, with a disengage-
ment of hydro en.

ELE C T R 0 T YPIN G, Bat/zsjbr.—The appa-
ratus by the aid of which we may decompose the
various metallic combinations employed in electro-
typing having been described, we proceed to give
some details upon the combinations themselves.

CapperBal/zr.—The sulphate, chlorate, nitrate,
and acetate are the combinations employed,
especially the sulphate,’ on account of its cheap-
ness. This salt presents a considerable resistance
to the passage of the electric current, and the
conducting power of the solution may be increas-
ed by adding to it a small quantity of sulphuric
or nitric acid. A solution containing one ' ound
of sulphate of copper in three and a half mts of
water, and one third to one half of its v0 ume of
sulphuric acid, diluted with eight parts of water,
forms a good working bath, especially when
operating with non-conducting substances coated
with plumbago.

The soluble electrode is always in copper; the
mould may be formed of plumbago, carbon, gold,
silver, platina, nickel, as well as of copper.

The discoverers of electrotyping are of opinion
that it is always objectionable to employ an acid
bath, yet many persons prefer it. The nitrate,
chloride, and other soluble salts of copper present
no advantages over the sulphate.

Silver Bat/25.—The choice of the silver salt to
be employed depends upon the nature of the
mould, which may be gold, platinum, silver,
copper, carbon, or a plastic substance covered
with one of these substances. Sulphate of silver
answers very well for metals which have more
affinity for oxygen than silver. Of all the salts
that can be employed, the nitrate of silver is the
least suitable. The following is the com osition
of the silver bath now generall adopte : Dis-
solve 2 lbs. of silver in 6 lbs. 0 nitric acid, and
gently evaporate the solution over a spirit-lamp
until the resulting nitrate is fused. By this
means we drive off not only the excess of acid,
but also reduce the copper that may be present.
Then dissolve the nitrate in a gallon of water.
Then, in another vessel, dissolve 4 lbs. of cyanide
of potassium, and add the solution gradually to
the silver solution; cyanide of silver is precipi-
tated, and the nitrate of potassa formed remains
in solution.

This operation, conducted with care, up to the
moment when the addition of a small quantity of
cyanide no longer causes a precipitate, admits of
the removal of the nitrate of potassa in solution
by decantation. The precipitate remaining in
the vessel is washed in pure water, and imme-
diately dissolved in 4 lbs. of cyanide of potassium.
Then sufficient water is added to make up ten
gallons. This bath is not immediately ready for
use. Before it will yield a good deposit, it must
be mixed with an equal quantity of an old. bath;
or, to impart to it the qualities of an old bath, it
must be boiled for several hours; or, which is
more to be depended upon, 2 lbs. of ellow
prussiate of potash is added to every 4 bs. of
silver. But this last composition of the bath,
although most generally employed, is not adapted
for brilliant silvering.

Gold Bal/z:.—Gi1ding may be done either hot
or cold; the com osition of the bath is the same
in each case; on warm gilding is generally
richer in color, an is usually adopted where the
baths can be heated by steam.

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

The bath is formed of the double cyanide of
gold and potassium, dissolved in an excess of
potassium. To prepare it, dissolve 2 oz. of gold
in aqua regia; evaporate it to a syrupy consistence;
re-dissolve it in warm water, and add, little by‘
little, 2 lbs. of cyanide of potassium, previously
dissolved in water, and thus form 11 gallons of
bath. It is best to boil it several hours before
employing it. The most suitable temperature
for operating is 160° Fahr.

ELE C T ROT YPING, Mould: for.— Every
substance which is a conductor of electricity may
be employed to form a mould suitable for the
electrotyping process, provided that it is not
liable to be acted upon by the solution, or to be
reacted upon by the metal precipitated. A non-
conducting mould fulfilling these conditions may
also be employed, by taking the precaution of
imparting a conducting faculty to its surface by
means of a very thin coating of a conducting
body, like plumbago, in a state of powder.

Metallic [Moulds—The conducting bodies ca-
pable of serving as moulds are—the metals,
well-calcined carbon, and plumbago. The so-
lution most commonly employed in electrotype
operations is sulphate of copper, upon which
zmc, tin and iron act. These three metals can
not, therefore, be employed to make moulds,
unless previously coppered in alkaline baths.
Platina and gold perfectly unite all the required
conditions; but their high price does not admit
of their being employed on a large scale. These
exceptions stated, there remain amongthe abun-
dant metals only silver, copper, and lead, and
the alloys of the latter metal, to form moulds.
Silver, which can be precipitated only by gold
and platinum, must be employed to reduce the
metals when we wish the deposit’precipitated to
be of great purity. We obtain very excellent
moulds of copper by means of an electro-chemical
deposit of this metal upon the original subject,
or upon a cast suitably metallized. Sheet-lead,
when carefully cleaned of its oxide, is first flatten-
ed in a press betgveen two iron plates. The
object to be moulde is placed on the lead and
covered with a steel plate, and passed through a.
rolling-press; the lead receives a perfect im-
pression of even the most delicate parts. This
is the method adopted in “nature printing."
The alloys of lead employed are plumber’s solder,
type-metal, and fusible metal. Moulds in fusible
metal are employed onlyin copying medals. The
alloy most frequently employed consists of five
parts lead, three parts tin, and three parts bismuth.
It melts at 176° Fahr. With this alloy moulds
are taken by ercussion. Moulds are taken in
plumber’s sol er by pouring the metal on a
piece of paper, and laying this on a piece of
cloth. The medal to be copied is laid upon the
alloy, covered with a piece of wood, and struck
a sharp blow. The mould must not be separated
from the metal until the latter is quite cold.
Success in this kind of moulding depends on the
skill of the operator. ‘ .

JVon-rondurling1l[0ulzls.—Theplasticmaterials
most commonl used are plaster of Paris, wax,
stearine, para ne, gelatine, sealing-wax, and
gutta-percha. '

Wan—Plaster models are put into warm
water until they are thoroughly saturated, but
not so as to appear wet on the surface; the
plaster is then put into a paper bag, and melted
wax poured upon it. Left in a cool place, the

 

WORKERS IN METALS.

wax easily separates from the plaster; but as wax
and similar substances contract materially upon
cooling, it is necessary to employ a mixture of
equal parts of yellow wax and resm. When
melted and stirred together, the mixture is left
to repose until all the bubbles have disappeared,
and it has acquired the consistency of treacle. It
is then poured over the model like wax. .

Stearine.— tearine may be employed in lieu
of wax—or, still better, a mixture of thirty-two
parts of spermaceti, seven of wax, and seven of
mutton-fat, melted and strained. It is well to
add a little plumbago to the mixture, to impart
conductibility. Plaster moulds should be satu-
rated with stearine. Sulphur moulds yield very
fine impressions.

Gutta- ercha—This substance is admirably
adapted or electrotype operations. Sufficiently
elastic to admit of the copying of undercut ob-
'ects, and wholly unchangeable in acid and alka-
line baths, it lasts almost indefinitely, if it be
kept from the air. To prevent the spontaneous
change of gutta- ercha, it must be kept under
water. When 0 d, it becomes brittle. Its ori-
ginal properties may be restored by boiling it
with a third of its weight of new gutta-percha.

There are two methods of obtaining a mould-—
by melting and by pressure.

The firstmethod consists in putting into a stove,
heated to 230 or 250° Fahr., the model and the
sheet of utta-percha, mixed with one third its
weighto linseed-oil, so as to form a kind of
fusion on the surface of the model; then, on re-
moval from the stove, the gutta- ercha is pressed
down u on the model by the and, moistened
with cold water to prevent adherence, until a

erfect mould may be supposed to be taken.
hen the gutta-percha is cold, it is separated
from the model, and presents a perfect copy of
all the details of the original. The principal ob-
jection to this method is that the gutta- ercha
undergoes great change, in consequence 0 which
it will serve for only a small number of opera-
tions, and require a long time for each.

The second process, much preferable to the
first, is by mechanical pressure. It requires a
large quantity of material, but is a better and

uicker‘process than that described above. On
t e plat arm of a screw-press a frame is placed,
in which the bed upon which the model to be
copied is laid. A lump of gutta percha, softened
in boiling water, and well kneaded in the hands,
then a counterpart representing the principal
sinuosities of the model, and horizontal on its
upper surface, are laid upon the bed. In order
to avoid the adherence of the model, it is gone
over with a soft brush dipped in weak soap-
water, and the lump of gutta-percha is dusted
with plumbago. The gutta-percha, in yielding
under the pressure, drives out the air and water
before it, and impresses itself erfectly on the
model. When cold, the mou d is removed.
Moulding in gutta-percha requires models in
metal, which ma be pressed or heated without
fear of injury. I the model be of plaster or wax,
we have recourse to modeling in

Gdatz'nt.-—This substance is more elastic than
gutta-percha, and admits of objects more under-
cut bemg executed. It has the inconvenience of
spoiling in acid baths, and of furnishing a very
brittle metal, in consequence of the necessity
that exists for making a very rapid deposit to
avoid alteration in the surface of the mould.

I

 

#3

Gelatine becomes nearly impermeable if we add
to its solution in warm water 2 per cent. of tan-
nic acid dissolved in alcohol, and 10 per cent. of
treacle. But it still spoils in the baths if care be
not taken to protect the external surface by a
thin coating of gutta- ercha or by a thick var-
nish. Dipping the ge atine mould into a strong
solution of alum renders it of a horny texture,
and less subject to be acted upon by the bath,
but the mould contracts arlittle in consequence of?
this treatment.

Sealing-Wax.-—Only the best quality of this
material can be employed as moulds. It is usu-
ally applied to copy seals, by holding a card over
the flame of a candle, and rubbing the surface in
a circular direction with a stick of sealing-wax
until suflicient thickness is obtained. Care must
be taken that no air-bubbles exist. The seal or
other object to be copied is then applied with
strong pressure, and left till cold.

ELECTROTYPING, Metallizrztz'on qf Ike
Mouldsfor.—Non-conductors of electricity res
quire to be metallized in order to render them
conductors. This is accomplished by two methods
—the dry way and the wet way.

Pluméago.—-—Of all metallic or metallizing
powders applied by the dry way, plumbago is
the best. Its unctuous nature renders its appli-
cation easy; by means of a soft brush, the plum-
bago may be applied to the most undercut por-
tions of the mould. All kinds of plumbago are
not equally good for metallization, and it is use-
ful to make trial of their conductibility before
adopting them.

The moist way consists in coating the surface
of the mould with a metallic solution, and in re-
ducing the metal it contains by the action of a
gas, of a liquid, or of light. The most con-
venient solution is that of nitrate of silver in a1-
cohol. It is applied to the mould with a fine
pencil, and left to dry. Two or three successive
applications are necessary; then the article is
submitted to the action of nascent sulphureted
hydrogen gas. Immediately the surface of the
mould turns black the mould is ready for the
bath, for the sulphureted silver has rendered the
surface conducting. We may arrive at the same
result by replacing the action of sulphureted
hydrogen by that of phosphorus dissolved in sul-
phide of carbon, or by the direct action of solar
light, or by gallic and pyrogallic acids, or by
sulphate of iron in its minimum state of oxida-
tion; but the first method is preferable. It is
employed to metallize vegetable and animal mat.
ters, such as flowers, fruit, insects and osier and
reed articles, so as to produce very curious re-
sults. The reduction of nitrate of silver by hy-
drogen permits, also, of the metallizing of silk
threads, and consequently, ofcoppering, gilding,
and silvering them. So, also, by metallization
by the moist way, glass may be covered with
metallic deposits, producing very remarkable
artistic effects.

When the moulds are rendered conductors, a
copper wire is attached to them, and they are put
into the bath.

If the article be undercut, it is well to multi‘
ply the points of contact, so as to cause the de-
posits to fall u on several parts at once. The
physical qualities of the co per obtained depend
u on a perfect equilibrium etween the four con-
ditions which we have before described.

The thickness of the copper deposited upon a.

416

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

given surface can not be perfectly uniform, in i which immediately spreads, and combines in-

consequence of the galvanic current acting in an
in'verse ratio to the distance. The result is that
the parts of the mould nearest to the anode
receive most deposit, while the distant portions
' receive much less. There exist, therefore, very
sensible differences in the thickness of the depo-
sits, and, consequently, the electrotype deposit
does not present all the solidity desirable.

To remedy this inconvenience, it has been pro-
posed to solidify the interior of the galvanic shell,
and take advantage of the different fusion points
of copper and brass.

By means of the gas blow-pipe, wire or pieces
of brass are melted into the copper shell, and
perfectly unite with it, giving to the electro
deposit the malleability and other qualities of an
article that has been cast.

Metallic Powderr. — Copper and silver are
sometimes employed as metallic powders.

To obtain an extremely fine copper powder, the
copper is precipitated from a boiling solution of
its sulphate by metallic zinc; the copper is after-
ward separated from the zinc in excess by diluted
sulphuric acid. The powder obtained is dried at
. a gentle heat.

Silver powder is prepared by boiling recently-
pre ared chloride of silver in water acidulated
wit sulphuric acid, and a piece of pure zinc.

The metallic powders are applied to the
moulds —— plaster impregnated with unctuous
matters, etc—after slightly warming them. A
camel’s or badger’s-hair pencil is preferred for
this purpose. The parts of the mould on which
the metal is not to be deposited are coated with
varnish.

Metals can be applied to glass without the
interposition of a varnish. The object is sub-
mitted to the fumes of hydrofluoric acid, until the
surface assumes a ma! or ground-glass appearance.
Plumbago is then applied with a cork or leather
stump. An exceedingly thin coating of plumbago
adheres to the rough surface with great force.

Cleaning—The plastic moulds, when covered
with a conducting coating by the preceding

rocesses, are ready to be immersed in the baths.
The metallic surfaces require to be first scoured
and cleaned, either by chemical or mechanical
means, which will be described hereafter.

' ELE CT R0 T YPING, Solderr for. — To
establish communication between the mould and
the negative pole of the galvanic battery, a con-
ductor is formed of a band of copper or of lead,
which, if the mould is metallic, lS soldered to the
edges in the following manner:

Soldering wit/z C/zlorz'de (y’ Zinc and T in.—
The two surfaces to be united are scraped clean,
and slightly moistened with a pencil dipped in
hydrochlorate of zinc, and then are easily soldered
with the soldering-iron and a little tin solder.
After putting them closely in contact, the
soldering is completed with the iron or the
spirit-lamp.

Soldering will; Stearine. —- This process is
simpler than the other. S earine, generally at
hand, is the only substance required to deoxidize
the metals, and determine their adherence by the
aid of tin solder.

The pieces to be cleaned are first scraped, and
rubbed with sand-paper. The articles are then
warmed at the flame of a spirit-lamp, and rubbed
lightly with a piece of stearine. A very thin
piece of solder is then applied to the heated part,

 

timately with the copper. The same operation
is repeated upon the other piece to be soldered.
The two articles are now held in close contact
by a pair of pincers, and heated together, and
they are left in the pincers until they are cold.

ELECTROTYPE PLATES, To Coat wit/t
from—The following has been 5 cessfully em-
ployed in coating electrotype depos with acoating
of pure iron, thereby rendering them little inferior
to steel-plate engravings as regards durability:

Dissolve I 1b. of sal ammoniac in I gal. of
rain-water, then add 2 lbs. of neutral acetate of
iron ; boil the solution in an iron-kettle for 2
hours, replacing the water lost by evaporation;
when cold, filter the solution, and keep it in
close-covered vats (when not in use) to prevent
oxidation.

The iron plate used in the decomposition-cell
must be of the same surface as the plate to be
coated with iron; a Smee’s battery, of at least 3
cells, charged with I part sulphuric acid, and 60
parts water, being used for the decomposition.

To insure success the following rules must be
observed: Ist. The plate must be thoroughly
freed from any greasy matter by immersing in a
solution of caustic soda, then rinsed in clean cold
rain-water, after which dip it in dilute acetic acid,
and immediately transfer it to the solution of iron;
this will insure perfect adhesion between the
metals. 2d. The solution must be filtered pre-
vious to use to remove the oxide of iron formed
by exposure to the atmosphere. After the plates
have been coated with iron they must be well
rinsed in clear warm rain-water, then in a weak
alkaline solution, well dried with a piece of
clean soft cotton, and slightly oiled to prevent
oxidation.

The coating of iron is very hard and brittle,
resembling the white iron used by manufacturers
of malleable iron. Should any of the surface be
damaged, the whole coating of iron may be re-
moved by immersion in dilute sulphuric acid, and
re-coated again by the above process.

ELECTROTYPING Plaster Carts. - To
prepare a plaster cast for electrotyping, first dry
the plaster cast in the oven thoroughly, then get
equal parts of beeswax and common resin, melt
them together, and boil the cast until it will not
absorb any more ; when cold, get some good
black lead and cover the cast entirely, not thick
but a bright surface, then you can electroplate in
your battery as usual.

Ell/El? Y WHEELS—Take a solid wheel,
made of pine, or any other soft wood, and of the
size required for his purpose. Turn the wheel
true, and then turn rounds or hollows in its face,
to suit the tools he wishes to grind, ouges,
rounds, etc., mentioned by him. Then et him
prepare some best glue, and, using it hot and
thin, put it on the face of the wheel witha brush.
The first coat of glue should be a light one, and
when it is dry a second one should be ap lied,
and as uickly as possible, as much emery s onld
be sifted upon the wet surface as the glue will
hold. When this is dry another coat of glue
and emery should be a plied in the same way.
This will make,a whee that will last for months,
and grind faster than anything else.

ENAZIIELS.—The beaut of the enamels
is altogether dependent on tie purity of their
component parts, and great care is therefore re-
quired in the selection.

 

WORKERS IN METALS.

The presence of iron in the white ground mass
is especially obnoxious, and for this reason crude
soda is never used in its composition ; but always
a purified article. \Vhite enamel, prepared
similarly to those given in our former article,
is always the ground mass of enamels, and a
coloring is produced by the addition of various
oxides of metals. To affix enamels to metals, 3.

round mass of white is burned in under a mutile

urnace first, and the colored enamel is afterward
put on with a brush, and burned in at a second
and less intense heating. The ground mass IS
required to be less fusible, and contains, there-
fore, less fluxing material than the colored
enamels afterward added. Besides carbonate of
soda, borax, and saltpetre, the silicate of lead is
the principal flux used; but the latter must never
be employed when a purple color 15 to be
produced by oxide or chloride of gold,.as the
color would be destroyed during the heating.

The following composition, given by Dr. F
Stohmann, answers excellently for the ground
mass, when purple, blue, and other tender colors
are to be added subsequently: 3 parts of sand,
I part of chalk, 3 parts of calcined borax; or 3
parts of lass free from lead, I part of calcined
borax, fpart of nitrate of soda, and I part of
antimoniate of potash. The latter composition
is especially adapted for blue colors. The quan-
tity of metal oxides depends entirely on the
depth of the color which it is intended to
produce.

The quantity of the above component parts
can be varied within certain limits; but the
principal quality requisite in a good enamel must
never be lost sight of ; that is, it must, when ex-
posed to a low temperature, become sufficiently
soft to show a glassy surface after cooling, and,
at the same time, it must not become thinly fluid
when smelted. This shows that it is by no
means easy to hit always the exact proportions,
and that great care is required in the business.

When a white opaque enamel is to be produced,
it is especially important to use very pure ma-
terials. But if the mass, after smelting, shows
a slight tinge only, the clear white can, in most
cases, be restored by the addition of a little py-
rolusite, which, however, must contain at least
90 to 95 per cent. of black oxide of manganese.
If the common kinds, which often contain from
30 to 40 per cent. of peroxide of iron are used,
they would spoil the color still more. An excess
of pure black oxide of manganese is also in-
jurious, as it would produce a violet color. The
action of pyrolusite in roducing a clear white
is simply based on the fzict that it gives off oxy-
gen in the heat to organic matter which may be
in the paste, and destroys it; and if small quan-
tities of protoxide of iron are present they are
oxidized to peroxide. Being itself reduced to
the colorless suboxide, it is incorporated in the
mass without imparting theviolet color, so char-
acteristic to its higher oxides. If a bluish white
is desired, it can be easily imparted to the paste
by adding a small excess of pyrolusite. A yellow-
ish tinge may thus be completely covered.

To the original basis of white enamels, which
has very nearly or entirely the composition of
clear crystal glass, a certain proportion of a
mixture of oxide of lead and tin, and often also
sand, is added. The metal oxides are prepared
by calcining the metals in the air. This is easily
done, as at a certain temperature a proper mixture

 

417

of lead and tin burns like tinder. It is then only
necessary to continually take off the skin of the
oxides in order to expose new metal surface to
the air. The whole mass is thus finally changed
into a yellowish powder, which is best heated a
second time unti no more sparks issue from it.
The second heating is performed in order to
oxidize the small globules of metal which may
have been scraped off the surface of the metal to-
gether with the oxides. The proportion of lead
and tin taken varies greatly, from 15 to 40 parts
being used to [00 parts of lead. Oxidation takes
place the more readily, the more lead there is in
the alloy.

A very fine white enamel is obtained by smel-
ting one part of the oxides (made by calcining 2
parts of lead and I of tin) with 2 parts of finely
pulverized crystal glass, and a small quantity of
pyrolusite. When the mass has become entirely
fluid, it is poured into cold water, and sub-
sequently powdered to repeat the operation of
smelting. This is often done three or four times,
in order to produce an entirely homogeneous
mass.

Thepurity of the white is principally dependent
on the proportion of tin in the composition, a
larger addition producing a more prominent
white. The less sand there is used, the more
fusible is the enamel, and wire warm.

Sometimes the antimoniate of potash or soda is
used in the composition, but it must never be
brought together with a glass containing lead,
as a very inferior enamel would result. The
usual composition of enamels, in which the
antimoniate is present, is 3 parts of crystal glass
to I part of antimoniate. It is mixedand smelted
in the usual way.

For fine white enamels pure sand is usuallynot
taken. A mixture of 1 part of sand, and % art
salt, which has been calcined, is melted wit }4{
part oxide of lead ; this mass is powdered and
used instead of sand.

According to Clouet, a mixture of 60 parts of
sand, 30 parts alum, 35 parts salt, and 100 parts.
of litharge produces a good white enamel, which
resists a high temperature. It is desirable that.
the sand contain a small proportion of talc.

The most important manufacture in which,
enameling is used is that of the dials for clocks.
and watches. The proceeding is as follows: If
the dials are large, both sides are covered with a.
coarsely pulverized mass of enamel, which has
been previously prepared, and is only made into»
a pasty mass with a little water. This is allowed
to dry gradually at a low heat, and then the
whole is exposed to the heat of a muffle-furnace,
until the enamelhas become soft and glassy. It is.
taken out, and the small blisters which are usually
found on the surface are ground down with fine-
sand. The dials are then brought back into the‘
furnace, and once more heated until the enamel
just commences to smelt on the surface.On taking,
them out and cooling them, it is found that the-
surfaces have the peculiar beautiful lustre which-
we see on dials. The circles are then drawn and:
divided into hours and minutes, by means of a.
machine; the marks are made with black enamel,
which is mixed with a little lavender oil; and to.
burn in the black marks the dials are exposed to.
another slight heat. Small dials are enameled
on one side only.

When jewelry or other ornaments are to be:
enameled on parts of their surfaces only, the;

27

418

respective spots are first roughened, and an in-
denture is made either with a chisel or a stamp.
These places are then filled with enamel, which
is burned in.

Colored enamels are mostly spread on a white
ground mass, which has been previously burned
in, but sometimes they are put directly on the
metal. In the latter case a comparatively low
heat is employed in burning in the enamel.

The colors in enamels are produced by oxides
of metals, as mentioned above. Their stability
in the heat depends on the degree of the affinity
which the metal has for the oxygen.

According to Dr. F. Stohmann, the different
colors are prepared as follows:

Purple.——Oxide or chloride of gold is used to
produce this color. Very little gold is sufficient
to color a large quantity of enamel. As before
mentioned, a paste must not be used for this
enamel which contains lead or tin; it is custom-
ary to use one consisting of crystal glass, borax,
and saltpetre, or of 3 parts quartz-sand, 1 part
chalk, and 3 parts calcined borax. The purple
color can not stand high temperatures.

Rat—We have no metal the oxide of which
~ gives us directly a red color. It is therefore
produced by adding to the paste of the enamel a
mixture of peroxide of iron and clay, which is
hard to fuse. But even in burning this in too
high a heat must be avoided, in order to prevent
the formation of silicate of peroxide of iron,
which would destroy the color. The mixture is
made by heating 2 to 2% parts of copperas and
1 part of sulphate of alumina, first slowly, to
drive out the water, then stronger, until the
whole has assumed a red color. The right
moment is seen by samples, which are from time
to time taken out of the furnace, and allowed to
cool, when the true color appears. The depth
of the red color can be widely varied by altering
the proportion of copperas and sulphate of alum-
ina. Thus the proportion above given would
produce a deep red, while 3 parts of sulphate of
alumina and 1 part of copperas would make a
flesh-color.

Yellow—A good yellow color is made by
mixing I part of oxide of antimony, 1 part of
white-lead, I part of alum, and I of sal-ammonia.
These substances are heated over a fire until the
sal-ammonia has sublimated, and the whole has
assumed a yellow color. With a small quantity
of peroxide of iron, a yellow color can also be
produced, ifa high heat is used in burning the
paste. This may consist of sand, oxide of lead,
and borax for the antimony yellow, and of alum,
oxide of lead, salt, and talcose sand, for the oxide
of iron.

A good yellow may also be produced with the
salts of silver. For this purposea small quantity
of oxide of silver, for instance, is put on the
surface of the enamel, which has already been
burned before, and a low heat is given. After
cooling, metallic silver will be found coating the
spot. On scraping this oil", the enamel below will
be found yellow.

Gram—This is produced by burning 2 ounces
of oxide of copper or chrome with 4 ounces of
paste. A small quantity of peroxide of iron is
sometimes added.

Blue is always produced by oxide of cobalt.
It is mixed with a paste which contains little or
no lead, as this would deteriorate the color.

Black is produced by adding large quantities

‘pared, as the writing can be burnt in,

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

of metal oxides with the paste, so that their color
becomes so dark as to appear black. It can be
done, for instance, by mixing pyrolusite, oxide
of copper, and oxide of cobalt, or, according to
Clouet, by mixing an easily fusible clay with a
third of its weight of protoxide of iron.

Vicki—It has already been mentioned that
this color is produced by black oxide of mangan-
ese. Care must be taken that no organic sub.-
stances—as, for instance, coal—dust, smoke, etc.
—come in contact with it in burning, as these
destroy the color.

According to Armengaud’s Génie IndustrieL
an enamel which is applicable to fine stonework,
metals, and fancy wood-work, is produced with-
out the. employment of heat, in the following
manner:

I. By mixing mineral salts or oxides, which
are capable of forming silicates with silica, ina
solution of soda water-glass of syrup consistency,
with a certain amount of silica.

2. By precipitating these silicates by means of
a fixing medium, which consists of a salt, acting
by double decomposition.

The artificially produce dsilicate of soda is dis-
solved in water, and the solution concentrated to
the consistency of syrup; then the finely-pulver-
ized mineral, mixed with finely-ground quartz,
is added to the solution of water-glass, and by
careful mixing and rubbing the whole, it is made
into a homogeneous paste or thin dough.

This is spread on the object which it is to
adorn, or to guard against the influence of the
atmosphere. As soon as the mass has become
dry, the fixing-medium, or reagent, which is a
more or less clear solution of a salt by which the
silicates are to be precipitated, is spread over it
with a fine brush.

The precipitation takes place after some time:
and when the covering substances have become
entirely hard, the covered object attains a much
greater durability. This is the case, because it
has received an entirely new structure for a thick-
ness of several millimeters from its surface, which
now is much more perfectly coherent.

The coherence and different appearance of the
surface can be varied in itensity, by—I. Giving
a larger addition of silica, from % to % of the
mass, if an enamel is desired which can resist a
high temperature. 2. By augmenting the quan~
tity of soda, or potash water-glass. This must
be done to the higher a degree the easier fusible
the product is intended to be.

EIVA/VELED Waiting Smfatt:.—A useful
substance for making glass labels, sign boards,
etc., is made as follows: 30 parts, by weight. of
pure saltpetre, 90 parts of fine sand (silicic acid),
and 250 parts of litharge, to be thoroughly blend-
ed, and then melted. The enamel made by these
means can be written or drawn on with the same
facilityas the best paper; and has the novel, and,
we may say, the unprecedented, capability, of
perfect permanency, if the ink be properly pre-

by means
of a muffle, in less than a minute. _ Another
advantage will help to recommend it to ingenious
inventors: it can be treated, for photographic
purposes, with a substitute for collodion. This
substitute can be prepared as follows: quarts
of gum, 1 part of honey, and 3 (parts of brchro-
mate of potash; filtered and drie on the surface
of the above described preparation. The plate
is exposed in the usual way. The development

WORKERS IN METALS.

is made by dusting, the powder being composed
of 10 parts, by weight, of cobalt oxide, 90 parts
of iron scales, 100 parts of red lead, and 30 parts
of sand. When these components are mixed,
the chromate should be decomposed by immer-
sion in a bath of water, acidulated with 5 per
cent. of muriatic acid. After washing and dry-
ing, the enamel should be melted on a piece of
iron plate, coated with chalk; a minute’s sub-
jection to heat is enough, and the photograph
on the enamel, perfectly glazed on, will be ap-
arent.

E T CHANG—A species of engraving, in
which the design is formed on the plate by the
action of an acid, or some other fluid, instead of
the graver.

The plate is covered with a ground or varnish
capable of resisting the action of the etching
fluid, the design is next scratched on the metal
by means of a species of needle or pointed tool
of steel. A border of wax is then placed round
the plate, and the “biting” menstruum poured on,

and allowed to remain till the lights or finest

portion of the design is sufficiently “bit in.” The
etching fluid is then poured off, the plate
washed, and the light parts “stopped up” with
wax or varnish, when the solvent is again poured
on, and allowed to remain until the finest portion
of the exposed lines are sufficiently deep, when
the acid is again poured off, and the whole pro-
cess is repeated till the very darkest lines or
shadows are sufficiently formed. The plate is
then cleaned, and is printed from in the same
way as a common engraved copper-plate. The
most approved way of laying the design on the
etching ground, is first to draw it with a black
lead pencil on paper, then to damp the paper,
place it with the design next the wax or varnish,
and to pass the whole through a rolling~press,
by which means the picture will be transferred
from the paper to the ground.

There are several varieties of etching, among
which may be named rtcking wit]; a dry paint,
performed entirely with the point, without any
ground, the burr being removed with the scraper;
etc/2mg wit/z a safl ground, when a coating of
lard or tallow is employed, and the design is
drawn on a piece of paper, laid evenly on the
ground, by which means the fatty matter adheres
to the paper, on the parts pressed on by the
gencil, and the copper beneath becomes exposed.

his method is employed to produce imitations
of chalk or pencil drawings. Stifip/ing, or exe-
cuting the design in dots instead oflines. Agua-
tim‘a, in which aweak spirituous solution of gum
mastich is poured over the plate, placed in a
slanting direction, by which a granulated surface
is formed, and small interstices left, exposing
the naked metal; a wall of wax is next placed
round the margin of the plate, the etching fluid
poured on, and the lighter parts successively
“stopped out” until the design is completed.
Aquatinta etchings bear a great resemblanceto
Indian ink drawings. The fineness or coarsenes!
of the grain depends entirely upon the quantity
of matter dissolved in the spirit employed to
form the ground.

The fluids employed for “biting in” the de-‘

signs vary considerably; almost every etcher
having his own receipt. Aquafortis, more or
less diluted, is, however, generally employed for
copper, and this, with the addition of pyrolig~
neous acid, for etching on steel; but any fluid

i

 

419

that will rapidly dissolve the metal maybe used
for this purpose. The etching varnish or ground
may be formed of any substance capable of re-
sisting the action of the etching fluid, and, at the
same time, sufficiently soft to allow of the free
use of the needle or point, and sufficiently solid
to prevent an injury to the design. during the
“scratching in.”

In etching on glass, the ground is laid on, and
the design scratched out in the usual way, when
liquid hydrofluoric acid is applied, or the glass
is exposed to the action of hydrofluoric acid gas.
The former renders the surface of the etching
transparent, the latter opaque. A very simple
way of performing this operation is to wet the
design with sulphuric acid, and then to sprinkle
on some finely—pulverized fluor spar, (fluoride
of calcium,) by which means hydrofluoric acid is
set free and attacks the glass. This may be very
easily applied to the graduation of glass Vessels,
thermometer tubes, etc.

A most rapid method of etching on iron or
steel, capable of very general application, is as
follows: Warm the metal until it is capable of
melting a piece of beeswax, or etching varnish,
which must then be carefillly rubbed over it, so
as to form a thin and even coating; allow the
whole to cool, and scratch out the design in the
common way, with a needle or point; then
sprinkle on a little powdered iodine, and at the
same time add a few drops of water with a camel-
hair pencil, and work them into a liquid paste,
which must be moved about over the intended
engraving, for a period varying from one to five
minutes, according to the depth of lines required
to be produced. Afterwards wash the whole in
clean water. Persons acquainted with the pro-
perties of iodine will readily perceive that the
same etching-paste, by being kept for a few days,
will again acquire the pmperty of dissolving iron.
I have thus successfully employed the same ma-
terials three or four times. Iodine will, doubt-
less, at no very distant period, supersede the
use of acids for the above purpose, on account of
its portability and convenience. To travelers
and amateurs who amuse themselves with the
delightful art of etching, it will, I think, prove
invaluable.

E TCHIIVG [an [wry—Cover the ivory to be
etched with a thin coating of beeswax, then trace
the figure you desire to present through the wax.
Pour over it a strong solution of nitrate of silver.
Let remain a sufficient length of time, then re-
move it, with the wax, by washing in warm
water. The design will be left in darklines on
the ivory.

FILES and RASPS.—Files and other in-
struments for the abrasion of various substances
may be made by folding up separate pieces of
wet clay in muslin, cambric, and Irish linen,
forcing them by the pressure of the hand into
the interstices of the threads, so that on divest-
ing them of the covering, and having them well
baked, a file is produced of a new species, said
tobe capable of operating on steel; and very useful
in cutting glass, polishing, and rasping wood,

, ivory, and all sorts of metals.

FILES and RASPS, To Re-wl when 01:].—
Dissolve 4 oz. of saleratus in 1 quart of water,
and boil the files in it for half an hour; then re-
move, wash, and dry them. Now have ready,
in a glass or stone ware vessel, 1 quart of rain
water, into which you have slowly added 4 oz. of

420 DICTIONARYOFE

VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

best sulphuric acid, and keep the pro ortions for
any amount used. Immerse the files in this
preparation for from six to twelve hours, accord-
ing to fineness or coarseness of the file; then
remove; wash them clean, dry quickly, andput
a little sweet oil on them to cover the surface.
If the files are coarse, they will need to remain
in about twelve hours, but for fine files six to
eight hours is sufficient. This plan is applicable
to blacksmiths’, gunsmiths’, tinners’, copper-
smiths’ and machinists’ files. Copper and tin
workers will only require a short time to take
the articles out of their files, as the soft metals
with which they become filled are soon dissolved.
Blacksmiths’ and saw-mill files require full time.
Files may be re-cut three times by this process.
The liquid may be used at different times if re-
quired. Keep away from children, as it is pois-
onous. .

FILES, T0 CZean.—Holding a file filled with
work under a steam jet at 40 lbs. pressure is an
effectual way of cleaning the same. ,

GALVANIZIA’G Gray [7072 Castings. —
Cleanse the articles in an ordinary chafing mill,
which consists of a barrel revolving on its axis ;
when the sand is all removed take them out and
heat one by one, plunging while hot in a liquid
composed as follows: 10 pounds of hydrochloric
acid, sheet zinc, q. s. to make a saturated solu-
tion. In making this solution, when the evolu-
tion of gas has ceased, add muriate, or preferably
sulphate of ammonia, I pound, and let it stand
until dissolved. The castings should be so hot
that whendipped into this solution, and instant-
ly removed, they~will immediately-dry, leaving
the surface crystallized like frost-work on a win-
dow pane. Next, plunge them while hot, but
perfectly dry, into a bath of melted zinc, previ-
ously skimming the oxide on the surface away,
and throwing thereon a small amount of pow-
dered sal-ammoniac. If the articles are very
small, inclose them in a wrought-iron basket on
a pole, and lower them into the metal. When
this is done, shake off the superfluous metal, and
cast them into a vessel of water to prevent them
from adhering together when the zinc upon the
surface solidifies.

G]LD]NG.—Gold is employed for gilding the
surface of copper, brass and silver by the follow-
ing different processes: I. Hot gilding for the
ormulu, the bright French gold for ornaments of
all kinds; the metal to be gilded is first washed
with a solution of nitrate of mercury or amalga-
mating water, which gives a silvery surface; to
this surface an amalgam of gold and mercury is
applied, from which the mercury is driven off by
heat. The color is then hightened by burning it
on Calder’s wax, formed of wax, verdigris and
blue vitriol; it is then polished and brightened
by a boiling solution of common salt and cream
of tartar. Some adepts heat the article on a hot
iron plate provided with small apertures, and
when heated apply some solution of iodine and
yellow ochre with a brush. 2. German gilding
of silver is performed by a solution of gold in
nitric acid, to which saI-ammoniac and alembroth
(a triple salt formed by salt and ammonia and
corrosive sublimate) have been added. This so-
lution of gold evaporates to the consistency of
oil, and is then applied to the silver or nickel,
both of which it blackens, but they appear gilded
on being heated. 3. Gilding is also performed
by rubbing the metal with the ashes of linen

rags which have been impregnated with a solu-
tion of gold. 4. Wet gilding by merely dipping
the work in a solution of gold. 5. Gilding by
the well-known process of electro-plating.

GILDING, Grecian. ——- Take sal-ammoniac
and bichloride of mercury, equal parts, dissolve
in nitric acid, and make a solution of gold with
this fluid, lay it on the silver and expose it to a
red heat; it will then be gilded.

GILDIN G Polished [VietalL—I.Polished iron
and steel may be readily gilded by applying an
ethereal solution of gold to the surface witha.
camel-hair pencil. The ether flies 0H and leaves
the surface coated with gold; it must then be
polished with a burnisher. In this way, any
fancy device or writing may be executed on steel
or iron. This species of gilding is not, however,
so durable as the following :—

2. Apply gold leaf to the surface of polished
iron, steel, or copper, heated to a bluish tint,
press it on gently with a burnisher, avoiding
breaking or injuring the gold; again expose it,
to a gentle heat, and repeat the process with
fresh leaves of gold, until the gilding has ac-
quired a proper thickness; then let it cool and
polish it with the burnisher.

GILDING Picture Frames.-—The surface to;
be gilt must be carefully covered with a strong
size, made by boiling down pieces of white leath-
er, or clippings of parchment, till they are re-
duced to a strong jelly. This coating being dried
eight or ten times, more size must be applied,
the size being mixed with a small quantity of
whitening. The last coating is composed of size
and massicot, or sometimes yellow ochre. Let
it dry thoroughly, and then damp the surface a
little at a time with a damp sponge, and apply
the gold leaf before this dries. It will immedi-
ately adhere, and when dry, those parts which
are to be brilliant are to be burnished with an
agate or dog’s-tooth burnisher.

GILDING and SH. VERING, To T ext t/ze
Genuinenerr of.-—A solution of chloride of cop-
per is the test for gilding. When the object is
only covered with the usual gold—colored alloy,
this reagent produces a black spot, which is not
seen if the gilding has been done with gold.

Equal parts of bichromate of potash and nitric
acid, brought in contact with real silver, will
form a red spot, while alloys imitating silver
show divers other peculiar colors, or no change
whatever.

GILT ORA’AMEN TS, T a Clean—The best
way to prevent gold and gilt ornaments from
tarnishing, and to make them bright, is to keep
them in box-wood sawdust, which may be ob-
tained at any ivory turner’s. To clean them,
wash in a lather with a soft brush, rinse, and let
them drain on a cloth. When nearly dry, put
them into the box-wood sawdust.

GLASS GLOBES, To Si!ver.—Tal<e equal
parts of tin and lead, and melt them together;
add while they are in fusion two parts of bismuth
band two parts of mercury. Take from the fire,
and so soon as cool enough for the glass to bear
it, pour into the globe and move slowly so that
the amalgam will pass over every part of its in-
terior. A thin film will be left at every point of
contact. _

GOLD, Arlg‘fiu'al. ——An American has dis—
covered a beautiful alloy, which has been most
successfully applied as a substitute for gold ;‘ it
is composed of pure copper, 100 parts; pure tm,

 

WORKERS IN METALS.

421

 

17 parts; magnesia, 6parts; tartar of commerce,
9 parts; sal ammoniac, 3'6 parts; and quicklime,
1-6 part. The copper is first melted, then the
lime, magnesia, sal ammoniac, and tartar are
added, little at a time, and the whole is briskly
stirred for about half an hour, so as to mix
thoroughly, after which the tin is thrown on the
surface in small grains, stirring until entirely
fused. The crucible is now covered, and the
fusion kept up for about thirty-five minutes,
when the dross is skimmed off, and the alloy
found ready for use. It is quite malleable and
ductile, and may be drawn, stam ed, chased,
beaten into powder, or into leaves, ike gold leaf.
In all of which conditions it is not distinguishable
from gold even by good judges, except by its
inferior wei ht.

GOLD ARTICLES, Polk/ting Powder fir.
-—Dr. W. Hofmann has analyzed a polishing
powder sold by gold workers in Germany, which
always commands a very high price, and hence,
it may be inferred, is well adapted for the pur-
pose. He found it to be a very simple composi-
tion, being a mixture of about 70 per cent. of
sesquioxide of iron and 30 per cent. of sal-ammo-
niac. To prepare it, protochloride of iron, pre-
pared by dissolving iron in hydrochloric acid, is
treated with liquid ammonia until a precipitate is
no longer formed. The precipitate is collected
on a filter, and without washing, is dried at such
atemperature that the adhering sal~ammoniac
shall not be volatilized. The peroxide of iron
precipitate at first becomes charged with sesqui-
oxide.

GOLD, T 0 make cy‘Four Carats.—Four carat
gold is used to a considerable extent for cheap
rings, pin—tongues and the like. It is avery
nice metal, wears well, does not black the finger,
and presents somewhat the appearance of Guinea
gold. You make it by melting together eighteen
parts copper, four parts gold, and two parts silver.

GOLD, To mat-e of T welve Carat—Melt
together, in the usual way, twenty-five grains
gold—if coin—thirteen and a half grains copper,
and seven anda third grains silver. This is a
very good gold for rings, etc.—stands acids
almost equal to the higher grades, and looks fully
as well. Of course it is deficient in weight.

GOLD, To maize of Sixteen Carats. —Com-
pound sixteen grains pure gold with five and a

alf grains pure copper and two and a half grains
pure silver. Or, if gold coin is used, seventeen
grains gold, five grains copper and two grains
silver.

GOLD, To ma/ee of Ezgr/zz‘een Carats. —-To
make the eighteen carat gold, generally in use,
melt together as above, eighteen grains pure
gold, four grains pure copper and two grains
pure silver. In cases where you find it necessary
to use gold coin, weigh out in the proportion of
nineteen and a half grains gold, three grains cop-
per and one and a half grains silver.

GOLD C 011V, T o make—The gold of Ameri-
can and English coin is twenty-two carat fine.
Copper alone usually forms the alloy, though a
portion of silver is sometimes added. To make
com gold, _you melt together with saltpetre and
sal-ammomac, the two metals in the proportion
of twenty-two grains pure gold and two grains
pure copper. When silver forms a part of the
alloy it IS usually about one-third silver to two-
thirds copper.

GOLD, Counterfiz’l.—Fuse together with

 

saltpetre, sal-ammoniac and owdered charcoal.
four parts platina, two an a half parts pure
copper, one part pure zinc, two parts block tin
and one and a half parts pure lead.

Another good recipe calls for two parts platina,
one part silver and three parts copper.

A metal corn ounded in accordance with either
formula, as exhibited above, will so nearly re-
semble gold as to almost defy detection without
a resort to thorough tests. The platina requires
a high temperature to melt, but nothing could be
substituted that would act so well, as it adds to
the ring of the metal, and to a great extent forti-
fies it against the action of acids.

If at any time you should find your metal too
hard or brittle for practical use re-melt it with
sal-ammoniac. It may in some cases be necessar
to repeat this operation several times, but it wi 1
be sure to produce the desired effect eventually.

GOLD, Coloring—Gold is colored by two
processes, called the dry and wet color; but the
materials used in both cases are the same. They
are as followsz—One part salt, one part alum,
and two parts saltpetre; each material to be
pounded separately in a mortar, taking care they
are perfectly clean (this is the dry process). 'Af-
ter being well pounded they are put into an iron
color-pot and slowly heated over a fire. The
color must boil gradually, and must be stirred
with an iron rod. It will then rise, and then. it
is ready for the reception of the articles to be
colored, which must be not less than 18 carat.
They are suspended in the color by 18 carat wire,
and kept in motion till the liquid begins to sink,
then they are taken out and dipped in aquafortis
pickle. The color will rise again, and then
another dip, and sometimes two. is necessary to
give them the proper color. The wet color
process is a much inferior method, except for
gold of lower standard, and then not below 15
carat, as the alloy would suffer so seriously from
the coloring. The fact is, coloring is no more
than taking from the surface the inferior metals,
leaving a thin coating of pure gold.

GOLD CHAIN, To CZean.—Put it in a small
glass bottle, with warm soapsuds and a little
prepared chalk; shake it well, rinse in clear, .
cold water, and wipe on a towel.

GOLD, To Cleans—Powder some whiting,
and make it into a moist paste with some sal
volatile. Cover over the gold ornaments and
surface with a soft brush, let it dry, and then
brush it off with a moderately hard brush.

GOLD AMALGAM, To Make—Eight parts
of gold and one of mercury are formed into an
amalgam for plating by rendering the gold into
thin plates, making it red hot and then putting it
into the mercury while the latter is also heated
to ebullition. The gold immediately disappears
in combination with the mercury, after which the
mixture may be turned into water to cool. It is
then ready for use.

GOLD AMALGAIII, To Plate with—Gold
amalgam is chiefly used as a plating for silver,
copper or brass. The article to be plated is
washed over with diluted nitric acid or potash lye
and prepared chalk, to remove any tarnish or
rust that might prevent the amalgam from ad-
hering. After having been polished perfectly
bright the amalgam is applied as evenly as pos-
sible, usually with a fine scratch brush. It is
then set upon a grate over a charcoal fire, or
placed into an oven and heated to that degree at

422

DICTIONARY OF EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

which mercury exhales. The gold, when the
mercury has evaporated, presents a dull yellow
color. Cover it with a coating of pulverized
nitre and alum in equal parts, mixed to a paste
with water, and heat again till it is thoroughly
melted, then plunge into water. Burnish up
with a steel or bloodstone burnisher.

GOLD, To separate fmm Gilt Granger or
Silvers—Take a solution of borax in water, ap-
ply to the gilt surface, and sprinkle over it some

nely powdered sulphur, make the article red-
hot and quench it in water, then scrape off the
gold and recover it by means of lead.

GOLD or SIL VER, T o Enamel.—Take
half a pennyweight of silver, two pennyweights
and a half of copper, three pennyweights and a
half of lead and two pennyweights and a half of
muriate of ammonia. Melt together and pour
into a crucible with twice as much pulverized
sulphur; the crucible is then to be immediately
covered that the sulphur may not take fire, and
the mixture is to be calcined over a smelting fire
until the superfluous sulphur is burned away.
The compound is then to be coarsely pounded,
and with a solution of muriate of ammonia to be
formed into a paste, which is to be placed upon
the article it is designed to enamel. The article
must then be held over a spirit lamp till the
compound upon it melts and flows. After this

' it may be smoothed and polished up in safety.
This makes the black enamel now so much used
on jewelry. '

GOLD, French—Spanish copper 6 parts,
silver 3 parts; gold 5 parts. Mix.

GOLD (Green), T o Make.—-—-Melt together

‘ nineteen grains pure gold and five grains pure
silver. The metal thus prepared has a beautiful
green shade. Some years ago it was used pretty
extensivelyby jewelers in the formation of leaves,
but we do not meet with it so often now.

GOLD ( Green), To [Jig/den the Color (31‘.—
Take of saltpetre, 1 oz. 10 dwts.; sal ammoniac,
1 oz. 4 dwts.; Roman vitriol, 1 oz. 4 dwts. ;
verdigris, I8 dwts. Mix them well together and
dissolve a portion in water, as occasion requires.

The work must be dipped in these composi-
tions, applied to a proper heat to burn them off,
and then quenched in water or vinegar.

GOLD, To Gild with ”for: Silvm—Beat a
ducat thin, and dissolve it in two ounces of aqua
regia; dip clean rags in it and let them dry;
burn the rags, and, with the tinder thereof, rub
the silver with a little spittle; be sure first that
the silver be cleansed from grease.

GOLD, Imilalz'on.—I. Four ounces platina,
three ounces silver, one ounce copper.

2. To 100 parts copper, melt with six parts
magnesia, three and one—half parts sal amm‘onia,
one eight-tenth parts quicklime, and nine parts
cream tartar, and, when fusing for some time,
add 17 parts zinc, and stir it quickly.

3. Sixteen parts cop er, seven parts platina;
melt with borax and c arcoal and one part zinc
added.

4. Platinum, 16 parts; copper, 7 parts; zinc,
I part; put in a crucible, cover with charcoal
powder, and melt into a mass.

GOLD LA QUICK—Gold Laquer is made
by dissolving gum shellac in alcohol, and color-
ing it with turmeric or gamboge. It is strained
through a cloth before it is used, and generally
takes several days to macerate.

GOLD, Mania—Copper and zinc, equal

 

parts. Fuse at the lowest possible tern erature,
and stir well to produce a erfect a mixture,
then add more zinc until the used alloy becomes
perfectly white; lastly, pour it into moulds.
The proportion of zinc to the copper is from 50
to 55 per cent, exclusive of what is lost by the
heat employed.

G OLD, Oreide.—The best article is made by
compounding four parts pure copper, one and
three-fourth parts pure zinc, one-fourth part
magnesia, one-tenth part sal-ammoniac, one-
twelfth part quicklime, and one part cream tar-
tar. Melt the copper first, then add as rapidly
as possible the other articles in the order named.

GOLD POWDER.—Put some gold-leaf, with ’
alittle honey, or thick gum-water made with
gum-arabic, into an earthen mortar, and pound

‘ the mixture till the gold is reduced to very small

particles; then wash out the honey or gum re-
peatedly with warm water, and the gold in pow-
der will be left behind. When dry, it is fit for
use.

GOLD (Dulch) Pmdcr.——This is made from
Dutch gold-leaf, which is sold in books at avery
low price. Treat in the manner described above
for true gold-powder. When this inferior pow-
der is used, cover the gilding with a coat of clear
varnish, otherwise it will soon lose its bright
appearance.

G OLD (Mosaic) Pawa’crfor Bronzing, etc.—~
Melt 1 lb. tin in a crucible, add % lb. of purified
quicksilver to it; when this is cold, it is reduced
to powder, and ground, with % 1b. sal-ammo-
niac and 7 oz. flour of sulphur, till the whole is
thoroughly mixed. They are then calcined in a
matrass ; and the sublimation of the other in-
gredients leaves the tin converted into the mo-
saic gold-powder which is found at the bottom
of the glass. Remove any black or discolored
particles. The sal-ammoniac used must be very
white and clear, and the mercury of the utmost

purity. When a deeper red is required, grind

a very small quantity of red-lead with the above
materials.

GOLD PLA TING S OLU T 101V, To [Make
and A filly—Dissolve half an ounce of gold
amalgam in one ounce of nitro-muriatic acid.
Add two ounces of alcohol, and then, having
brightened the article in the usual way, apply
the solution with a soft brush. Rinse and dry
in saw—dust, or with tissue paper, and polish up
with Chamois skin.

GOLD, T o Raina—If you desire to refine
your gold from the baser metals, swedge or roll
it out very thin. then cut into narrow strips and
curl up so as to prevent its lying flatly. Drop
the pieces thus prepared into a vessel containing
good nitric acid, in the proportion of acid two
ounces, and pure rain water half an ounce.
Suffer to remain until thoroughly dissolved,
which will be the case in from half an hour to
one hour. Then pour off the li uid carefully and
you will find the gold in the orm of a yellow
powder lying at the bottom of the vessel. Wash
this with pure water till it ceases to have an acrd
taste, after which you may melt and cast mto any
form you choose. Gold treated in this way may
be relied on as perfectly pure.

In melting gold use none other than a char-
coal fire, and during the process sprinkle salt!
petre and potash into the crucible occasmnally.
Do not attempt to melt with stone coal, as It ren-
ders the metal brittle and otherwise imperfect.

WORKERS IN METALS.

GOLD, Recwen‘ng.—Gold may be stripped
from articles that have been gilt by placing them
in strong nitric acid, in which some salt has been
previously dissolved. ‘When a number of arti-
cles have been stripped in the solution, it begins
to work slowly, and it is time then to abandon
it, and use a new one. The gold may then be
recovered from the old solution, by evaporating
it to dryness, and fusing the residuum with a
small piece of soda or potash, the gold being
fused into a button. The addition of a little salt-
petre will tend to make the refining process more
complete. As there is some trouble connected
with this process, it is scarcely worth adopting
where very small quantities of gold are con-
cerned. In such a case it is a better plan to sus-
pend the article, from which the gold is to be
removed, in the gilding bath in the place of the
anode when gilding another article.

GOLD (Red), To Hig/ztm the Color of.—To
4 oz. of melted yellow wax, add, in fine powder,
[’2 oz. of red ochre, 1% oz. of verdigris, cal-
cmed till it yield no fumes, and % oz. of calcined
borax; mix them well together. It is necessary
to calcine the verdigris, or else by the heat ap-
plied in burning the wax, the vinegar becomes
so concentrated as to corrode the surface, and
make it appear speckled.

GOLD S OLDER—Melt together in a char-
coal fire twenty—four grains gold coin, nine grains
pure silver, six grains copper and three grains
good brass. This makes a solder for gold rang-
ing from twelve to sixteen carats in fineness.
Where a liner grade is to be worked, the solder
may be made to correspond by increasing the
proportion of gold in its composition. A darker
solder may be made, if desired, by lessening the
proportion of silver, and increasing that of the
copper in a corresponding de ree.

GOLD TARNISHED in SOLDERING,
To Chara—The old English mode was to expose
all parts of the article to a uniform heat, allow it
to cool and then boil until bright in urine and
sal-ammoniac. It is now usually cleansed with
diluted sulphuric acid. The pickle is made in
about the proportion of one-eighth of an ounce
acid to one ounce rain water.

GOLD and SIL VER, A New Prater: of Sepa-
rating—Instead of precipitating the sulphate of
silver, which results from the refining of gold by
sulphuric acid, by copper, it is reduced, at the
works of the San Francisco Assaying and Refin-
ing Co., by protosulphate of iron. The hot,
thick, turbid mass, which is obtained by treating
the bullion with sulphuric acid in cast-iron pots,
is placed into acast-iron vessel containing sul-
phuric acid of 58° B. heated to about “0° C.
A very small quantity of water is then added, and
after a few minutes the now clear solution is
drawn into a second vessel, which can be cooled
from the outside. By the addition of the water
all the sulphate of lead is precipitated, which
carries down all impurities, and all the suspended
gold. As soon as the solution in the lower ves-
sel is cooled to from 30° to 40° C., the mother
ligluor is pumped back into the up er vessel,
w ere it is again heated and treate as before
with acid of 58" B. The sulphate of silver is
found in hard yellow crystals in a layer one or
two inches thick, containing but ver little free
acid. The crystals are put on the alse bottom
of a b0x lined with lead, which is provided with
wheels and an opening for letting off the liquor.

 

4-23

These crystals are mixed with a red powder, es-
sentially sulphate of copper. A hot aqueous so-
lution of sulphate of copper is allowed to run
through them. The copper salt is dissolved first,
and collected in a separate vessel to be worked
for sulphate of copper. As soonas the filtrate
shows the pure brown color of the sesquisulphate
of iron, it runs into another vessel, where on
cooling the greater part of the dissolved silver
salt is decomposed, and metallic silver precipi-
tated, which is added to the principal mass on
the filter. Here the crystals have been converted
into a dense coherent mass of metallic silver,
which may be considered as completely reduced
as soon as the iron solution, filtering through,
shows apure green color. It is washed with
water, pressed, and melted. The oxidized iron
solution is collected in a lead lined vessel, which
contains iron scraps. It is thereby converted
into a solution of protosulphate, and used again.
The small quantity of silver and copper, which
is precipitated by the iron scraps, is from time
to time added to the crystals on the filter where
the copper is rapidly dissolved. One hundred
pounds of silver, reduced on the filter, require
about 20 cubic feet of solution of protosulphate
of iron.

GOLD, T est fox—In order to ascertain wheth-
er an article is made of gold, if a doubt arises a
simple plan is to rub a portion of the article upon
apiece of slate, wedgewood ware or oil ston'e
(dry), and then apply a single drop of nitric acid
by touching the part with the stopper of the bot-
tle. If the acid produces no effect the article
may be considered gold. A very inferior alloy
of gold, however (twelve carat gold), will stand
this test; but its color will act as a guide, as it
will fail (except when electro-gilt) to present the
rich yellow color of good gold. When a common
gold article has been strongly gilt, it will be ad-
visable to pass a keen but smooth file over a
small part of the article, and then apply the nitric
acid to the part, when, if the article is not gen-
uine, the characteristic green tint of nitrate of
copper will at once show itself.

GOLD ( Yellow), To Hzlg/zlm t/ze Color of.—
Take of saltpetre, 6 02.; green copperas, 2 oz. ;
white vitriol and alum, of each, I oz.

If it be wanted redder, a small portion of blue
vitriol must be added. These are to be well
mixed, and dissolved in water as the color is
wanted.

GONGS, Chinere.—It is said they are of an
alloy consisting of 78 per cent. of copper and 22
of zinc. The operation of making them chiefly
consists in a well-managed beating out and an-
nealing of the disc.

G UMBA RRELS, Browning fora—Spirits of
nitre I 1b.; alcohol I 1b.; corrosive sublimate I
02.; mix in abottle and keep corked for use.
Plug both ends of the barrel, and let the plugs
stick out three or four inches, to handle by, and
also to prevent the fluid from entering the barrel,
causing it to rust; polish the barrel perfectly;
then rub it well with quicklime by means of a
cloth, which removes oil or grease; now apply
the browning fluid with a clean white cloth, ap-
ply one coat and set in a warm, dark place, until
a red rust is formed over the whole surface,
which will require, in warm weather, from ten
to twelve hours, and in cold weather, from fifteen
to twenty hours, or until the rust becomes red;
then card it down with a gun-maker’s card and

424

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

rub off with a clean cloth; repeat the process
until the color suits, as each coat gives a darker
shade.

GILMBARRELS (T wist), Browning ffor.—
Take spirits of nitre % oz. ; tincture 0 steel
% oz. ; (if the tincture of steel cannot be obtain-
ed, the unmedicated tincture of iron may be used,
but it is not so good) black brimstone ’14 oz. ;
blue vitriol % 02.; corrosive sublimate % oz. ;
nitric acid I dr. or 60 drops; copperas % oz.;
mix with 1% pts. of rain water, keep corked,
also, as the other, and the process of applying is
also the same.

GUN METAL—r. Melt together 112 lbs. of
Bristol brass, 14. lbs. of spelter, and 7 lbs. of
block tin.——2. Melt together 9 parts of copper
and I part of tin; the above corn ounds are those
used in the manufacture of smaliDand great brass
guns, swivels, etc.

HA [R-SPRIN G of Watch, T o we‘ahm.—This
is often effected by grinding the spring down.
You remove the spring from the collet, and place
it upon a piece of pivot wood cut to fit the centre
coil. A piece of soft steel wire, flattened so as
to pass freely between the coils, and armed with
a little pulverized oil-stone and oil, will serve as
your grinder, and with it you may soon reduce
the strength of the spring. Your operations will,
of course, be confined to the centre coil, for no
other part of the spring will rest sufficiently
against the wood to enable you to grind it, but
this will generally suffice. The effect will be
more rapid than one would suppose, therefore it
will stand you in hand to be careful or you may
get the spring too weak before you suspect it.

Another and perhaps later process is as follows:
Fit the collect, without removing the spring,
upon a stick of pivot wood, and having prepared
a little diluted nitric acid in a watch-glass, plunge
the centre coils into it, keeping the other parts
of the spring from contact by holding it in the
shape of an inverted hoop skirt, with your
tweezers. Expose it a few seconds, governing
the time of course by the degree of effect desired,
and then rinse off, first with clean water, and
afterwards with alcohol. Dry in the sun or with
tissue paper.

HARDENIN G Mill-Pick and Cast-Steel in
Gmtral.—The hardening of cast-steel in general
is a process well known to every smith and forge—
man and to the mechanic, in so far as it regards
turning-tools, chisel, hammers, and other tools
which he has constantly to use. But it frequently
happens that the same chisel, after being ap-
parently well hardened, has assumed quite
another degree than it had at first. It is, there-
fore, not surprising that the workman, after
having struck the right degree, takes care of his
tool in every conceivable manner. Even work-
men that are exclusively occupied with hardening
can only guarantee five good pieces out of ten.
One thinks he has obtained a uniform degree,
by testing with the file, but use soon proves that
the degree varies in the different pieces. The
one bends, the other breaks; and yet they are
all made out of one and the same material, and
have passed through the same operation. Let
us first see what qualities are best adapted for
the respective instruments. For mill-picks,
especially when they are to be used for re-dressrng
French stones, only the very best English tool-
steel should be selected. The commercial English
cast-steel, so called, is, although it is directly

 

imported and bears the stamp “Huntsman,”
only mild cast-steel, or at least an inferior kind
of tool~steel.

Unfortunately for the artisan, common welding-
steel is sold sometimes for tool-steel. Both
kinds consist of cast-steel, but they are unequal
in quality. The steel sold under the term Furs-
.rtahl (foot-steel) —— so called because it only
occurs in lengths of one foot—although only one
fourth of an inch thick, is really excellent tool-
steel. Yet, in order to get only this brand, and
no other, one has to get it directly from the
manufacturer, who, by the way, should be in-
formed for what purpose it is intended.

The second reason why the hardness is not
always found to be a uniform one, is to be attri-
buted to forging. In forging, it is scarcely to
be avoided that one piece gets warmer than an-
other, since it is not well possible to measure the
heat during this operation. The warmer the steel,
the more does its texture become changed and
the more the molecules separate from each other.
It is also observable that an inferior piece
ofkfast-steel tears and cracks if forged too
co .

Mill-picks should be forged in the following
manner: The steel must be slowly heated in the
charcoal fire till it assumes a bright red color.
If a part gets ellow or white, it should be cut
off, and used or some other purpose. A mill-
pick must be beaten out on one side in one heat ;
when the steel commences to cool off, cold water
must be poured upon the anvil, and the hammer
also must be dipped into cold water. The blows
should be light, quick, and frequent, and the
water must be renewed at the same time, until
the iron is perfectly cool. By this procedure it
will acquire a very dense structure. Should
cracks present themselves, the fissured piece is
to be cut off. The steel may then be filed or
ground until as thin as desired. This method
being applied by a very few smiths only, com-
paratively speaking, the stone-dresser himself
will have to watch the operations of the smith.

A [Z the vaunted nortrmm‘ for hardening fail
to give ram/”action for the purpose in question,

The process of hardening proper is racticed
as follows for ordinary tools: The tool a ter being
heated to the desired length, is immersed in
water for only a short time; it is then withdrawn
and polished with pumice-stone, so that the an-
nealing colors may be recognized. If it possesses
the desired color, the whole piece is at once im-
mersed in the trough. This process, indeed,
suffices very well for the tools of iron workers;
but not so for tools that are to be possessed of a
high and perfectly uniform degree of hardness,
as is the case with millers’ tools. If they are
forged as described above, and then properly
prepared by grinding or filing, the hardening
may be proceeded with. No one, in the first
place, should endeavor to heat the pieces in the
smith’s hearth. This process should be accom-
plished by setting four bricks upon a solid sup-
port, filling the interior with charcoal, that is
kindled and fanned until well glowing. The
picks are then stuck in and left to themselves,
without further fanning. When they have as-
sumed the color of the fuel, the time has arrived.
when they may be dipped into the water. .

The water should not be calcareous, or if it 15
so, a little soap or soda should be added to it in
order to neutralize the lime. Its temperature

WORKERS IN ME? A ZS.

also must not be low, about 65° being the most
suitable. . .

After being withdrawn, the objects, of which it
is said that they are “hard as glass,” must be
“let down.” To this end a sufliciently strong
piece of iron is brought to a red heat; the respec-
tive tools are then laid upon it, and the tlme IS
waited for when the desired tempering-color
appears. It should be near .mlp/zur yellow for
mill-picks; orange for cutting-tools on metal;
violet for wood-cutting tools; and dark blue to
[lg/1t blue for hard Chisels to be used on metal.

When the desired color has made its ap~
pearance, the tools are repeatedly coated with a
fat oil, (olive or rape-seed oil, not petroleum,)
whereupon they are allowed to cool. For the
different brands of one and the same kind of steel,
the proper color can only be found out by ex-
periments. In hardening files, it is beneficial to
stir in the water some acid, which purifies them
from the adhering film of oxide. Upon fine,
polished objects common washing-soap may be
spread. For steel that readily acquires fissures
the following procedure is to be recommended:
Finely ground chalk is mixed with oil to a thick

aste, and with this the piece is brushed over.

hen it is hardened, as above described. If such
a. tool is tested with the file after hardening, it is
apparently very soft; however, this softness is
only limited to the depth of a thin crust, that has
been formed by the mixture. When the latter is
cleaned off, the tool will appear perfectly hard.
All these remarks refer to tool-steel and welding-
steel.

A few words may be added on the hardening
of pivots and counter-sinks. In withdrawing
pivots from the water they sometimes break in-
stantaneously, sometimes after a short while.
In order to obviate this, wrought-iron rings must
be drawn on their heads. The diameter of the
ring should exceed that of the pivots by one
eighth of an inch. They are to be heated slowly
and with caution, in order that they may get
uniformly hot. When they have attained the
proper degree of heat, finely powdered yellow
prussiate of potassa is spread over them, the
cylinders being turned constantly so that the
flux may flow around them. However, before
this substance ceases to flow, the pivots must be
withdrawn from the fire and immersed vertically
into the cooling-trough. The water must be of
the same temperature and nature as above pre~
scribed. The tools have to remain in the water
from one to six days, according to their dimen-
sions. If prematurely withdrawn, they often
break. Pivots that are to remain soft, so that
they may be turned, should be well covered with
a mixture of clay and calf’s hair. But, though
these precautions may have been observed, break-
ages are still within the range of possibility. It
has, for instance, happened to the writer, though
but once, that a cylinder broke after having been
ready for four weeks.

Springs and counter-sinks are cooled in oil, of
which there must be a suflicient quantity so that
it may not get too hot.

Springs are annealed by heating them upon a
hot iron until a pigeon’s wing will singe, or at
least become yellow, when held at some distance
over it, when they are allowed to cool.

In conclusion, it may not be superfluous to
remark that it is in hardening as in most other
branches of the arts and manufactures; the work-

425
man, h0wever well instructed in theories and
rules, must study closely the behavior of his ma-
terial, and watch his process well—in short, use
his own jud ent.

HOLES 11V [ROM C/zinere Met/tad ome-
ding.-— The Chinese mend holes in cast-iron
vessels as follows: They melt a small uantity
of iron in a crucible the size of a thimble, and
pour the molten metal on a piece of felt covered
with wood-ashes. This is pressed inside the
vessel against the hole, and as it exudes on the
other side it is struck by a small roll of felt cov-
ered with ashes. The new iron then adheres to
the old.

HORSE-P0 WER q" Steam-Engmer and
Boilers, To Arrertaz'n.—-The Franklin Institute,
in Philadelphia, referred this subject to a com.
mittee, which has quite recently delivered a report,
which from its useful contents we think will
prove of interest. It is as follows:

In a thorough examination of this question, it
is necessary first to advert to the origin of the
term horse-power, and the manner in which it
was first used to designate the power of the
steam-engine. The early demand for the steam-
engine was to effect some task before performed
by horses, and it became a question of comparison
of the new mechanical with the animal motor.

From experiments made to determine the
actual power exerted by good average horses, it
has been found that a horse, working for eight
hours per day, will exert a force equal to about
23,400 pounds, and when working for three
hours only, will exert as much as 32,900 pounds,
raised one foot high per minute. The example
taken as a unit by James Watt was that given by
the heavy dray-horses of the brewers of London,
whose maximum performance in hauling was
found to be 150 pounds at two and a half miles
per hour; equal to 33,000 pounds lifted one foot
high in a minute. This has since remained the
standard for a horse-power, both in English,
Continental, and American practice.

This unit of power exerted upon the piston of
the steam-engine, measured by the instrument
known as an indicator, is termed the indicated
horse-power; and the power given out by the
engine to the machinery is the actual or effective
horse-power, being the indicated power minus
the friction of the engine. There is also the
nominal power, a term based upon the size of
the cylinder and an arbitrarily assumed speed of
piston and pressure of steam. This might also
be termed the commercial power of the engine.
Watt, in the construction of steam-engines after
the type established by him, adopted for the speed
of the piston 128 times the cube root of the stroke
in feet ; and assumed seven pounds as the effect-
ive pressure upon the piston. He thus obtained
a nominal horse-power, which, under the most
unfavorable circumstances, his engines were sure
to produce.

Then, again, we have the rule of the British
admiralty for marine-engines, in which the old
assumed pressure of seven pounds is adhered to,
but the actual speed of the piston is taken into
account. Another rule for the nominal power
of high-pressure engines has the authority of
Bourne, who assumes the speed of the piston to
be that given by Watt, and the effective pressure
on the piston to be three times as great, that is,
twenty-one pounds per square inch. His rule is

 

to multiply the square of the diameter of tho

426

cylinder in inches by the cube root of the stroke
in feet, and divide the product b 152/. Thus
we find a great diversity in the ru es for estimat-
ing the nominal power of engines. This nomi-
nal power, the power at which the engine is rated
by the maker, has gradually become greater as
the speed and pressure have been increased.
But, in all cases, the nominal power is much less
than the actual power at which such engine is
capable of working, with the average pressure
and speed common to engines of that class.

Going back to the historical era of the use of
steam, the committee find that, at an early day,
‘although subsequent to Watt’s time, the evapo-
ration of a cubic foot of water per hour, from
and at the temperature of 212°, was ruled to be
the measure of a nominal horse-power. All
subsequent authorities, without exception, have
adopted this standard. In the steam-boiler they
make no distinction between the nominal and
the actual horse-power. There is only one de.
finition of the term, and that is the evaporation
of a cubic foot of water, as previously stated. It
is with this definition that we use the term horse-
power. This rule appears yet to be applicable,
and it only needs some statements of conditions
such as will allow purchasers and sellers to con-
form to this requirement.

For stationary boilers, with natural draught,
assuming that the chimneys and fines shall be
adequate, in size and form, to afford the necessary
draught, and that the fuel is coal of average good
quality, it appears that nearly all writers give
about 5 5-100 square feet of grate to each horse-
power of boilers; and as this ratio gives a very
small grate for the lesser number of horse-power,
abOnt two feet are added as a constant.

Having thus designated the means for burning
the fuel, the conditions attached to the horse-
power of boilers are within some limit as to
quantity of fuel to be used in producing this
effect. In other words, the arrangement and
extent of heating-surface should be such that at
least the average result by evaporation of nine
pounds of water from and at 212° with one pound
of good anthracite coal burned (over and above
ashes) shall be attained. As there are 59.48
pounds of water at 212° in a cubic foot, it follows
that 6.61 pounds of coal will be needed for its
evaporation. Adopting the more convenient
number of seven pounds as a liberal allowance,
the rule would be 7 H. P. divided by 0.55 H. P.

2, equal to the number of pounds burned per
hour per square foot of grate; or for boilers of

10 h. p., 7% square‘feet of grate, 9.33 pounds
per hour per square foot of grate.

20 h. p., 13 square feet of grate, 10.76 pounds
per hour per square foot of grate.

40 h. p., 24 square feet of grate, 11.66 pounds
per hour per square foot of grate.

60 h. p., 35 square feet of grate, 12.00 pounds
per hour per square foot of grate.

It may be as well to refer to chimneys and
flues, and add that the average height of chim-
neys above the surface of the grate for stationary
boilers should be taken as from fifty to sixty feet,
and the sectional area to conform to Boulton &
Watt’s rule, (as quoted by Bourne,) which is,
“Multiply the number of pounds of coal con-
sumed under the boiler per hour by twelve, and
divide the product by the square root of the
height of the chimney in feet, and the quotient
is the proper area of the chimney in inches at

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y. WANTS.

the smallest part.” The rule, though appropriate
for land boilers of moderate size, is not applicable
to powerful boilers with internal flues, such as
those used in steam-vessels in which the sec-
tional area of the chimney is from six to eight
square inches per horse-power.

The sectional area of tubes or fines, and the
setting of the boiler, must also be properly pro-
portioned so that the escaping gases, as they
leave the steam-generating surface of the boiler,
be not more then 300° above the temperature of
the steam. The above conditions apply parti-
cularly to stationary boilers with natural draught.
We have no intention, however, to limit the test
of aboiler to these conditions of grate-surface
and chimney; they are incidentally mentioned
as good average practice. When a forced
draught is employed, as! in the locomotive, we
find the heating-surface sixty-five times the grate
area, and eighty pounds of coal burned per square
foot of grate.

These general conditions, dependent upon
each other, being fulfilled, namely, a grate-sur-
face so proportioned to the draught as to admit
easily the combustion of seven pounds of anth-
racite coal, or combustible equal to that amount
per horse-power per hour, and the escaping gases
not over the temperature before mentioned, it
may be safely asserted that a boiler so set, of any
given horse-power, failing to evaporate that
number of cubic feet of water per hour, with that
amount of coal, does not produce its nominal
horse-power. We may also state, in connection
herewith, that a cubic foot of water evaporated
into steam is abundance for one actual horse-
power, when used in the cylinder of an engine
without expansion; when used in a three-port
slide-valve engine, cutting off during the last
quarter, it will yield about 1% indicated horse—
power, and will give as high as 2% indicated
horse-power, according to the pressure of the
steam, the point of cut-off and the type and effi-
ciency of the engine.

IROZV, To Galvanizc.—To effect this result,
the iron plates are first immersed in a “cleansin
bath” of equal parts of sulphuric or mnriatic acid
and water, used warm. They are then scrubbed
with emery or sand, to clean them thorourrhl
and detach all scales, if any are left; after whic
they are immersed in a “preparing bath,” of
equal parts of saturated solutions of chloride of
zinc and chloride of ammonium, from which
bath they are directly transferred to the fluid
“metallic bath,” consisting of twenty chemical
equivalents of zinc to one of mercury, or, by
weight, six hundred and forty pounds of zmc to
one hundred and six of mercury, to which are
added from five to six ounces of sodium. As
soon as the iron has attained the temperature of
this hot fluid bath, which is only 680° Fahr., it
may be removed, and will then be found tho-
roughly coated with zinc.

Care must be taken not to leave the plates too
longimmersed in this bath, as its affinity for iron
is such that they may become dissolved. _This
is the case with thin plates of wrought-tron,
which, even when one eighth of an inch thick,
may be dissolved in a few seconds. It is safe,
therefore, to let the bath previously act on some
wrought-iron, so that it dissolves a portion of it,
in order to satisfy its inconvenient y great afli-
nity for this metal. .

From what has been said, it is clear that this

WORKERS IN METALS.

method produces not only a superficial zinc coat-
ing, but also a layer of an alloy of zinc and iron.
This can not peel off, but can only be lost by
oxidation of the zinc, which protects the iron. as
long as this oxidation lasts. The “galvanic”
protection, of course, ceases as soon as the last
'of the metallic zinc has become oxidized.

IRON CAS TIA/GS, Ornamentation qf. —
Since Zimmerman, of Berlin, began to make his
‘ex uisite iron castings many things both useful
and ornamental have been produced in cast iron.
But iron being so liable to rust, it is desirable to

rotect it from the influence of the atmosphere.
his is usually effected by means of a bronze
paint. The bronze paint used to coat the Berlin
.castings is made of ferro-cyanide of copper, which
forms a rich brown paint with a metallic lustre.
The ferro-cyanide of cbpper is easily made in the
following manner : A solution of sulphate of
co per is taken and to it is added gradually a
so ution of ferroocyanide of potassium, when a
brown precipitate will be produced. This, when
mixed with a suitable vehicle, is used as a basis
for all the different colored bronzing, whether
yellow, green or brown.

The French use the green bronzing very much,
which may be produced in the following manner:
When the ground has been produced with the
above paint, and before it is quite dry, it is dust-
ed over with copper bronze powder, and allowed
to dry thoroughly, and then the loose powder is
brushed off and the article is polished; it will
then appear like bright copper. The only thing
required to produce the green tint is to wash the
articles gently over with a solution of acetate of
copper and allow it to dry gradually. When
perfectly dry, the higher parts of the article must

e rubbed with a piece of clean rag to cause the
brown copper color to appear. The article will
look like a bronze which has become green by
age. The common brown bronze is produced by
brushing the above bright copper colored bronze
over with black lead; and the pale or yellow
bronze is produced by using yellow bronze or
brass powder in place of the copper powder above
referred to. Those who wish a more solid and
durable bronze than bronze paint and powder
will produce, coat the iron by electricity with
copper or brass, and produce the different colors
by the same means as those used to color the
flopper and brass colors produced by the pow-

ers.

An easy method of coating cast-iron with cop-
per is that of M. Oudré. He first coats the
cast—iron with a metallic paint, and then electro-
deposits copper upon it in a bath of sulphate of
copper. A modification of his process is some-
times used—a brass powder being used instead
of copper powder. This brass powder is pro-
duced in the following manner: Equal parts of
copper and tin are melted together, and when
co d the alloy is powdered in a mortar and sifted;
this can easily be done, for this alloy is as brittle
as glass. This powder is mixed with the ferro-
cyanide of copper paint, which makes a very
good conducting surface and takes the copper
well in the sulphate of copper bath, and the paint
adheres very firmly to the iron.

For brassing iron the method is not quite so
simple. For brassing direct on the iron the iron
is required to be scrupulously clean, or the de-
posit will not adhere ; but the easiest way is first
to coat the article with copper by Oudré’s pro-

 

427

cess, and then, after thoroughly rinsing it in
clean water, transfer it to the brassing solution,
which is formed and worked in the following
manner, according to Morris and Johnson’s pro-
cessz—Dissolve I lb. of cyanide of potassium,
I lb. of carbonate of ammonia, 2 oz. cyanide of
copper, and I oz. of cyanide of zinc in I gallon
of water, and work the solution at 150° Fahr.,
with a large brass anode and a powerful battery.
To increase the proportion of zinc add carbonate
of ammonia or lower the temperature. We have
tried this method of depositing brass, and have
found it a very good one; but the electrolytic
processes are very little used for bronzing because
they are more difficult, consequently more ex-
pensive.

IROIV, To Give the Color (ff Cop/sen—Take I
oz. of copper-plates, cleansed in the fire; 3 oz.
of aguafortz's; dissolve the copper, and when it
is cold use it by washing your iron with it by the
help of a feather; it is presently cleansed and
smooth, and will be of a copper color; by much
using or rubbing it will wear off, but may be re.
newed by the same process.

IROIV, To PIEJEV’Z/c’ from Oxidizatz'on. ——
Among the many processes and preparations for
preserving iron from the action of the atmos-
phere, the following will be found the most effi-
cient in all cases where galvanization is impracti-
cable; and, being unaffected by sea water, it is
especially applicable to the bottoms of iron ships,
and marine work generally: Sulphur, 171bs.;
caustic potash (lye of 35° B.), 5 lbs., and copper
filings, I lb. To be heated until the copper and
sulphur dissolve. Heat, in another vessel, tal-
low, 750 lbs., and turpentine, 150 lbs., until the
tallow is liquefied. The compositions are to be
mixed and stirred together while hot, and may
be laid on, as paint, to the iron.

[RON W ORK T a Paint—There is no pro-
duction for iron work so efficacious as well boiled
linseed oil, properly laid on. The iron should
be first well cleaned and freed from all rust and
dirt; the oil should be of the best quality, and
well boiled, without litharge or any dryer being
added. The iron should be painted over with
this, but the oil must be laid on as bare as pos-
sible, and on this fact depends in a great measure
the success of the application, for if there be too
thick a coat of oil put upon the work, it will skin
over, be liable to blister, and scarcely ever get
hard; but if iron be painted with three coats of
oil, and only so much put on each coat as can be
made to cover it by hard brushing, we will guar-
antee that the same will preserve the iron from
the atmosphere for a much longer time than any
other process of painting. If a dark coloring
matter be necessary, we prefer burnt umber to
any other pigment as a stain; it is a good hard
dryer, and has many other good properties, and
mixes well with the oil without injuring it.

IROIV, To Improve 'wlzen Peon—Black oxide
of manganese I part; copperas and common salt
4 parts each; dissolve in soft water and boil until
dry; when cool pulverize and mix quite freely
with nice welding sand. When you have poor
iron which you cannot afford to throw away, heat
it and roll it in this mixture, working for a time,
re-heating, etc., will soon free it from all impu-
rities, which is the cause of its rottenness.

IRON RAILINGS, Decay ofi—Every one
must have noticed the destructive combination of
lead and iron, from railings being fixed in stone

428

DICTIONARY 0F EVERKDA Y WANTS.

 

with the former metal. The reason for this is,
that the oxygen of the atmosphere keeps up a
galvanic action between the two metals. This
waste may be prevented by substituting zinc for
lead, in which case the galvanic influence would
be inverted; the whole of its action would fall on
the zinc: the one remaining uninjured, the other
nearly so. Paint formed of the oxide of zinc, for
the same reason preserves iron exposed to the
atmosphere infinitely better than the ordinary
paint composed of the oxide of lead.

IROZV, T o Tim—To tin iron, clean the sur-
face with dilute sulphuric acid—scratch-brushing
if necessary—until the entire surface is bright.
Take it from the acid, and dip it in a bath of hot
lime water, and rub dry with bran or sawdust.
Then dip it in melted tin, having upon its sur-
face a stratum of melted tallow.

[RON SLA G CEMENTl—A new form of
cement, of much value, may, it is said, be pre-
pared by finely pulverizing the slag of iron fur-
naces, and passing this through a fine sieve.
This powder is then to be mixed in a mill with
calcined gypsum, to which a variable amount of
soluble phosphate of lime has been previously
added. The best proportion of the different in-
gredients is said to consist of 700 parts of gypsum
and 300 of slag, to which, for use in the open air,
28 parts of soluble phosphate of lime are to be
added. This, however, may be replaced by a
corresponding quantity, six to fourteen parts, of
phosphoric or boracic acid, or any other substance
capable of combination with the iron. The super-
phosphate of lime may also be substituted for the
soluble phosphate. For this, however, an equal
quantity of slag must be used. On the other
hand, if the quantity of soluble phosphate of lime
is increased, the sulphate may be entirely omitted.

It is alwa s necessary to have the different
ingredients nely pulverized and well mixed.
When used, a sufficient quantity of water is to be
added, and the whole thoroughly stirred together.
With these substances blocks can be made as
hard as marble, and capable of imitating this
substance very closely. For this purpose the
necessary moulds are to be laid upon a porous
bed—gypsum, for instance—and subjected, by
means of a screw or hydraulic press, to a great
pressure. The cement, thus compressed, is re-
moved from the mould in the form of a very
hard block, which takes as fine a polish as marble,
and may be stained or colored previous to the
pressure in such a way as closely to resemble the
different colors of this rock. This artificial marble
resists the influence of air, moisture, and frost,
and is said to be well adapted for the fronts of
houses, floor tiles, etc.

[ROM T a Text the Qualify q/Z——~Iron men of
long experience are often able, or at least claim
to be able, to tell the quality of iron by the e e
alone. But the test of the eye in decidingt e
quality of any iron must not be definitely relied
upon. It has been laid down that good wrought-
iron should be silvery white, fibrous, havinga
fresh and somewhat reflex appearance in its fibres,
silky; when carbon is in excess, it is claimed to
have a bluish, and often gray color; sulphur
in excess, a dead color, with a tinge of blue;
silica, phosphorus, and carbon in excess, a bright
color, which is the more beautiful the more silica
and phosphorus exist. But the lustre of iron
does not depend principally upon its color, for
pure iron, though silvery white, reflects little

 

light. A small quantity of carbon in chemical
combination, as well as of phosphorus or silica,
increases the brilliancy of Its lustre, while the
lustre is generally diminished by silica, lime, sul-
phur, magnesia, or carbon in larger quantities.
The most reliable test‘is ductility and malleability
with a due admixture of the eye-lest just de:
scribed.

IROJV, To Prevent Welding—Where it is
desired to weld two bars of iron together, for
making axletrees or other purposes, through
which you wish to have a bolt-hole, without
punching out a piece of the iron, you will take a
piece of wet paste-board, the width of the bar
and the length you desire not to weld, and place
it between the two pieces of iron, and hold them.
firmly upon the pasteboard while taking the heat,
and the iron will weld up to the pasteboard, but
not where it is; then open the hole, with swedge
and punch, to the desired size.

I V01? Y, To Silver.———Immerse the ivory in a
weak solution of nitrate of silver till it takes upon
itself a bright yellow color; take it then from the
solution and expose, under water, to the rays of
the sun. In two or three hours it will become
black; but on taking it out of the water and
rubbing it, the blackness will change to a beau-
tiful silvering.

yAPANNING on Illez’al, Wood and Paper.
—Japanning on metal, wood, and paper is exe-
cuted in much the same manner as similar works
in spirit or oil varnishes, except that every coat
of color or varnish is dried by placing the object
in an oven or chamber called a stove, heated by
flues to as high a temperature as can safely be
employed without injuring the articles, or causing
the varnish to blister or run. For ornamental
works, the colors ordinarily employed by artists
are used; they are ground in linseed oil or tur—
pentine, and are afterwards brought to a proper
consistence for working by mixing them with
copal or anime varnish. The latter is generally
used, as it dries quicker, and is less expensive
than the copal varnish.

For black japanned works, the ground is first
prepared with a coating of black, made by mixing
drop ivory black to a proper consistence with
dark-colored anime varnish, as this gives a black-
er surface than would be produced by the japan
alone. The object is then dried in the stove,
three or four coats of japan are afterwards applied,
and the work is dried in the stove between ever
coat. If the surface is required to be polished}:
as for the best works, five or six coats of japan
are necessary, to give sufficient body to prevent
the japan being rubbed through in the polishing.

For brown japanned works, the clear japan
alone is used as the ground, or umber is mixed
with the japan to give the required tint, and the
work is afterwards dried in the oven, in the
same manner as black japan.

For colored works no japan is used, but they
are painted with the ordinary painters’ colors,
ground with linseed oil or turpentine, and mixed
with anime varnish; and the work is dried in the
oven in the same manner as the black japan.

To protect the colors, and give brilliancy and
durability to the surface, the work is afterwards
varnished with copal or anime varnish, made
without driers. Two or three coats of varnish
suffice for ordinary works, and five or six for the
best works that are polished. Very pale varnish
is of course required for light colors.

PVORKERS [1V METALS.

Ornamental devices are painted on the objects
in the usual manner, after the general color of
the ground has been laid on. The colors are
dried in the stove, and the work is finally var-
nished and polished just the same as plain colors,
but more carefully. _

Metal works require no other reparation than
cleaning with turpentine, to ree them from
grease or oil, unless the latter should happen to
be linseed oil, in which case the cleaning 15 gene-
rally dispensed with, and the articles arefiplaced
in the stove and heated until the oil is baked
quite hard. -

Wood that is intended to be used for the best
japanned work, requires to be thoroughly well
dried before it is made up, or otherwtse it Wlll
be subject to all the evils of shrinking, warping,
and splitting, when exposed to the heat of the
stove. To avoid these evils, the wood, after
having been well seasoned in the usual manner,
by exposure to the air, is sawn out nearly to the
required forms, and baked for several _days in
the japanner’s stove, the heat of which is grad-
ually increased; and the wood 15 afterwards
worked up into chairs, tables, trays, and Similar
articles, which are afterwards again exposed to
the heat of the stove, and any cracks or other
imperfections, that may be thus rendered appa-
rent, are carefully stopped with putty, or white
lead, before the japanning is commenced.

:71; WELRY, T a Chem—Dissolve one
ounce of cyanide of potassium in three gills of
soft water. Turn up the end of a piece of brass
or iron wire into a hook. Attach to it the article
to be cleaned, and immerse it in the solution,
shaking it backward and forward for a second or
two, then take it out and rinse well in clean
water. Wash it with warm water and soap to
remove any film of cyanide that may remain;
rinse again, dip into spirits of wine, and dry in
boxwood sawdust. The advantage of dipping in
spirits of wine is the immediate drying of the
work without any sticking of the sawdust to it.
When done with the solution, put it in a bottle
and cork tightly. It may be used again and
again for some months. Do not forget to label
the bottle—Poison. One caution is necessary;
do not bend over the solution so as to inhale its
odor, nor dip the fingers in it; if one of the ar-
ticles drops from the hook, better empty the
solution into another vessel. The cyanide is a
violent poison, and although there is no danger
in cautiously using it, carelessly inhaling it is in-
jurious, and its absorption through the pores of
the skin even more so.

yE WELRl/(Gz'lt), To Clam—Take halfa
pint of boiling water, or alittle less, and put it into
a clean oil flask. To this add one ounce of cyanide
of potassium, shake the flask, and the cyanide
will dissolve. When the liquid is cold, add half
a fluid ounce of liquor ammonia, and one fluid
ounce of rectified alcohol. Shake the mixture
together, and it will be ready for use. All kinds
of gilt articles, whether Birmingham ware or
“articles de Paris/L which have become dis-
colored, may be rendered bright by brushing
them with the above mentioned fluid.

_‘7E WELERS’A’OUGE.—I.Dissolve sulphate
of iron in hot water, add a solution of pearlash as
long as any precipitate falls, wash this often with
warm water, drain it, and calcine to abright red
color.—2. Preeipitate a dilute solution of sulphate
of iron, with ammonia in excess, wash and ex-

 

429

ress the precipitate, then calcine it to redness.
sed as a polishing powder, and for covering
razor strops.

LIGHTNING R ODS. —The best method of
erecting and constructing lightning rods, accord-
ing to Prof. Henry, is as follows :—

1. The rod should consist of round iron of
about one inch in diameter; its parts, throu li-
out the whole length, should be in perfect meta lic
continuity, by being secured together by coupling
ferrules.

2. To secure it from rust the rod should be
coated with black paint, itself a good conductor.

3. It should terminate in a single platinum
point.

4. The shorter and more direct the course of
the rod to the earth the better ; bendings should
be rounded, and not formed in acute angles.

5. It should be fastened to the buildin by iron
eyes, and may be insulated from these by cylin-
ders of glass.

6. The rod should be connected with the earth
in the most perfect manner possible, and nothing
is better for this purpose than to place it in
metallic contact with the gas-pipes, or, better,
the water-pipes of the city. This connection
may be made by a ribbon of cOpper or iron sol-
dered to the end of the rod at one of its extremi-
ties, and wrapped around the pipe at the other.
If a connection of this kind is impracticable, the
rod should be continued horizontally to the
nearest well, and then turned vertically down-
ward until the end enters the water as deep as
its lowest level. The horizontal part of the rod
may be buried in a stratum of pounded charcoal
and ashes. The rod should be placed, in pre-
ference, on the west side of the building. A rod
of this kind may be put up by an ordinary black-
smith. The rod in question is in accordance
with our latest knowledge of all the facts of elec-
tricity. Attempted improvements on it are
worthless, and, as a general thing, are proposed
by those who are but slightly acquainted with
the subject.

MEDALS, Mould: fan—Take a thin piece
of wood, of the thickness of the cast around the
edge. Then cut a hole and fit in the metal per-
fectly. Dampen some soft newspaper, and spread
over the face. Beat to a pulp about one eighth
inch thick all over one face of the medal, and
about one half inch around on the wood. Now
spread some more over without heating, and
camp fast to the wood. Dry by the fire per-
fectly. That will remove when dry. Then ope-
rate with the other side in the same manner. He
will then have moulds more perfect than can be
made in any other way I know of, except the
are made of metal. Let him take out the meda ,
and place the papers in position, making a vent
throughthe wood for air and gases. He need
not be afraid of the paper’s burning.

MA GNESIUM.—The metallic base of the
earth magnesia. The existence of this metal was
demonstrated by Sir H. Davy in 1808, but it was
first obtained in sufficient quantity to examine its
properties, by Bussy in 1830.

Introduce 5 or6 pieces of potassium about the
size of peas, into a glass tube retort, and over
the potassium lay a sufficient number of small
fragments of chloride of magnesium to cover it.
The latter must then be heated to near its point
of fusion, when the flame of the lamp must be
applied to the potassium, so that its vapor may

43°

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

pass through the stratum of heated chloride. As
soon as the vivid incandescence that follows is
over, throw the mass into water, and collect the
insoluble metallic portion.

Color and lustre resemble silver, malleable and
fusible at a red heat, unaffected by dry air and
water; burns with brilliancy in oxygen gas,
yielding oxide or protoxide of magnesium, or
magnesia, and inflames spontaneously in chlo-
rine, yielding chloride of magnesium. It dis-
solves in the acids with the evolution of hydrogen
gas, and pure salts of magnesia result. Chloride
of magnesium is best prepared by dissolving
magnesia in muriatic acid, evaporating to dry-
ness, adding an equal weight of muriate of am-
monia, projecting the mixture into a red-hot
platinum crucible, and continuing the heat till a
state of tranquil fusion be attained. On cooling
it forms a transparent, colorless, and very deli-
quescent mass. Iodide, fluoride, and bromide
of magnesium may be prepared by dissolving
magnesia in hydriodic, hydrofluoric, and hydroT
bromic acids.

METALS, Fancy Coloring fox—I. A solu~
tion is made in the following manner:—Dissolve
four ounces of the hyposulphite of soda in one
and a half pint of water, and then add a solution
of one ounce of acetate of lead in the same quan-
tity of water. Articles to be colored are placed

in the mixture which is then gradually heated to-

boiling point. The effect of this solution is to
give iron the effect of blue steel; zinc becomes
bronze; and copper or brass becomes succes-
sively yellowish, red, scarlet, deep blue, light
blue, bluish white, and, finally, white, with a
tinge of rose. This solution has no effect on lead
or tin.—2. By replacing the acetate of lead in the
solution by sulphate of copper, brass becomes
first of a fine rosy tint, then green, and finally of
an iridescent brown color. Zinc does not color
in this solution—it throws down a reci itate of
brown sulphuret of copper; but i boi ed in a
solution containing both lead and copper, it be-
comes covered with a black adherent crust, which
may be improved by a thin coating of wax.—-3.
If the lead solution be thickened with a little
gum tragacanth, and patterns be traced with it
on brass which is afterward heated to two hund-
red and twelve degrees, and then plunged in so-
lution N o. I, a good marked effect is produced.

METAL, To Cleans—Mix % pint of refined
neat’s-foot oil, and fl 8. gill of spirit of turpen-
tine. Scrape a little rotten-stone; wet a woolen
rag with the liquid, dip it into the scraped kernel,
and rub the metal well. Wipe it off with a soft
cloth, polish with dry leather, and use more of
the kernel. In respect to steel, if it is very rusty,
use a little powder of pumice with the liquid, on
a separate woolen rag first.

111E TA LS, Partefor Cleaning—Take oxalic
acid, I part; rotten-stone, 6 parts. Mix with
equal parts of train oil and spirits of turpentine
to a paste.

METAL (Spatula), for Telescopes. — Melt 7
lbs. of copper, and when fused add 3 lbs. of zinc
and 4 lbs. of tin. These metals will combine to
form a beautiful alloy of great lustre, and of a
light yellow color, fitted to be made into specula
for telescopes. Mr. Mudge used only copper
and grain tin, in the proportion of 2 lbs. to 14%
ounces.

METAL SHEA THING for 5/12)”. —Best
selected copper, 60 parts; best zinc, 40 parts;

 

melt together in the usual manner, and roll into
sheets of suitable thickness. This composition
resists oxidation from ex osure to sea-water, and
prevents the adhesion o barnacles.

ME TA L, Printerr’ T yfm—Put into a crucible
10 lbs. of lead, and when it is in a state of fusion,
throw in 2 lbs. of antimony; these metals, in
such proportions, form the alloy of which com-
mon printing types are made. The antimony
gives a hardness to the lead, without which thel
type would speedily be rendered useless in a
printing press. Different proportions of lead,
copper, brass, and antimony, frequently consti-
tute this metal. Every artist has his own pro-
portions, so that the same composition cannot
be obtained from different foundries; each boasts
of the superiority of his own mixture.

111E TAL, W/zz'te.—I. Melt together IO oz. of
lead, , 5 oz. of bismuth, and 4 drs. of regulus of
antimony.——2. Melt together 2 lbs. of regulus of
antimony, 8 oz. of brass, and 10 oz. of tin.

METALS, I’Vrz'tz'ng Inscription; on.—Také
% lb. of nitric acid and I oz. of muriatic acid.
Mix, shake well together, and it is ready for use.
Cover the place you wish to mark with melted
bees-wax ; when cold, write your inscription
plainly in the wax clear to the metal with a sharp
instrument; then apply the mixed acids with a
feather, carefully filling each letter. Let it re-
main from one to ten minutes, according to ap-
pearance desired; then throw on water, which
stops the process, and remove the wax.

MOIREE METALLIQUE, A Met/tad of
0; namenting the Surface of T in Plato éy Acid.
—The plates are washed by an alkaline solution,
then in water, heated, and sponged or sprinkled
with the acid solution. The appearance varies
with the degree of heat and the nature and
strength of the acids employed. The plates, after
the application of the acids, are plunged into
water slightly acidulated, dried, and covered with
white or colored varnishes. The following are
some of the acid mixtures used: Nitro-muriatic
acid, in different degrees of dilution; sulphuric
acid, with 5 parts of water ; I part of sulphuric
acid, 2 of muriatic acid, and 8 of water; a strong
solution of citric acid; 1 part of nitric acid, 2 of
sulphuric acid, and :8 of water. Solution of pot—
ash is also used.

NICA’EL PLA TING. ——The advantages of
electro-plating with nickel are: First, that the
coating of nickel is quite hard, nearly as hard as
iron, so that it keeps its polish much better than
Britannia metal or any other similar tin alloy—
even better than brass or silver; secondly, that
it adheres well, even when put on in thick layers,
so that it may be easily~ polished; and then has
a shade between that of polished steel and that
of alloy of silver and copper; thirdly, that it re-
quires no lacquer or varnish, since it does not
tarnish by exposure to the air, as brass does, and
even silver, when ex osed to the least trace of
sulphurous vapors. gt retains its lustre fora
very long time, being proof against oxrdation
under ordinary circumstan s; wherefore Richter
counted nickel among the ble metals. It only
oxidizes at a red heat when in contact with air;
when air is excluded, heat reduces its oxide to
the metallic state. Plating with nickel is accom-
plished like other electro-plating, only the bath
or nickel solution is prepared in a peculiar way.
The simple soluble salts of nicke appear not
adapted for the purpose; double salts are re-

 

WORKERS 11V 1111? TALS.

431

 

quired. Becquerel, the great French chemist,
prescribes a solution of the double sulphate of
nickel and potassa; this solution is not patented,
and may be used by every one.

A few of the methods of preparing the salts,
that are or may be used, are as follows:

According to H. Rose, nickel may be sepa-
rated from cobalt as follows: The mixed metals
are dissolved in considerable excess of hydro-
chloric acid, and the solution is diluted with a
very large quantity of water; a current of chlorine
is t en passed through the liquor for several
hours, and the up er part of the flask is left
filled with the gas a ter the current has ceased;
carbonate of baryta is next added in excess, the
whole digested together, with fre uent agitation
for fifteen or eighteen hours, an then thrown
on a filter. The filtrate yields pure oxide of
nickel by precipitation with caustic potassa ;
while the residuum on the filter, after being
washed in water, dissolved in hot hydrochloric
acid, and the baryta precipitated with a sulphuric
acid, furnishes, with hydrate of potassa, a pre-
cipitate of hydrated oxide of cobalt, free from
nickel, which, when washed and dried, is re- '
duced in a platinum or porcelain crucible by
hydrogen gas.

Acetate ofM'c/zeL—By neutralizing acetic acid
with carbonate or oxide of nickel, and gently
concentrating by evaporation, so that crystals
may form. Small green crystals, soluble in six
parts of water. '

Carlomzte V‘M'ckeL—This salt may be ob-
tained in the manner described above in connec-
tion with the preparation of metallic nickel, or
by simply adding carbonate of soda to a solution
of chloride or sulphate of nickel, but in this case
some hydrate of nickel is precipitated with it.
The following is another formula which produces
a nearly pure carbonate, but one which may still
contain a little cobalt, the entire separation of
which is a matter of extreme difficulty, and can
only be effected in the manner recommended by
. Rose, described above:

The mineral (crude speiss or kupfernickel) is
broken into small fragments, mixed with from
one fourth to one half its weight of iron filings,
and the whole dissolved in aqua regia; the solu-
tion is gently evaporated to dryness, the residue
treated with boiling water, and the insoluble
arseniate of iron removed by filtration; the liquid
is next acidulaterl with hydrochloric acid, treated
with sulphureted hydrogen, in exceSS to preci-
pitate the copper, and after filtration is boiled
with a little nitric acid, to bring back the iron to
the state of sesquioxide ; to the cold and largely
diluted liquid a solution of bicarbonate of soda is
gradually added, and the sesquioxide of iron
separated by filtration; lastly, the filtered solution
is boiled with carbonate of soda, in excess, and
the pale green precipitate of carbonate of nickel
collected, washed and dried.

It is freely soluble in the acids, and is chiefly
employed to prepare the salts and other com-
pounds of nickel. ‘

C/zlorz'a’e (f IVlr/ael.—From carbonate or oxide
of nickel and hydrochloric acid, as the acetate.
Small green crystals, which are rendered yellow
and anhydrous by heat, unless they contain cobalt,
when the salt retains a tint of green.

. Oxalate (y‘M'rkelu—By adding a stron solu-
ttpn of oxalic acid to a like solution of sulp ate of
nickel, and collecting the pale bluish-green pre-

 

cipitate which forms after atime. Used to prepare
both metallic nickel and its oxide.

Oxide: of MckeL—There are two oxides of
nickel, but only one of them (protoxide) acts as
a base:

Protoxizz'e «fl/Vz'ekel.—t . By heatin g the nitrate,
carbonate or oxalate, to redness in open vessels.
Anhydrous.

2. By precipitating a soluble salt of nickel
with caustic potassa. Hydrated. An ash-gray
powder, freely soluble in acids, forming the or-
dinary salts of nickel.

Scsyuz'oxicle of Nickel—By passing chlorine
through water holding the hydrated rotoxide in
suspension; or by mixing a salt 0 nickel with
bleaching powder. An insoluble, black powder,
which is decom osed by heat.

Sulphate of keel—From carbdnate or oxide
of nickel and dilute sulphuric acid as the acetate.
Green prismatic crystals, soluble in three parts
of cold water. With the sulphates of potassa
and ammonia, it forms beautiful double salts.

It may also be that ammonia, potassic or sodic
chlorides will prove useful. Solutions of the re-
spective chlorides (chloride of nickel and of the
c loride which it is desired, to unite with it) are
poured together and allowed to crystallize.

L fir Sewing Mae/zines, Watt/2n, ale.—
Refined oil, for fine mechanism, can be prepared
by putting zinc and lead shavings, in equal parts,
into good Florence olive oil, and placing it in a
cool place till the oil becomes colorless.

01L, Wale/zmal’em’.——This is prepared by
placing a clean slip of lead in a small, white
glass bottle filled with olive oil, and exposing it
to the sun’s rays for some time, till a curdy
matter ceases to deposit, and the oil has become
quite limpid and colorless.

PEARLS or Delicate Articles, To field.—
Eastern jewelers resort to an ingenious plan for
firmly securing in any desired position such
pearls as they wish to drill or work upon. The
gems are first fitted loosely in holes bored in a
piece of soft wood. A few drops of water are
then sprinkled over them, and this penetrating
the fibres, causes the wood to swell and the pearl
is held as in a vise, but without marring it or in
any way depreciating its value. After a time the
water evaporates, the fibres gradually relax, and
the gem is again set free. .

PE W 7‘ ER, Common.—Melt in a crucible 7
lbs. of tin, and when fused throw in 1 lb. of lead,
6 oz. of copper and 2 oz. of zinc. This combi-
nation of metals will form an alloy of great
durability and tenacity; also of considerable
lustre.

PEWTER, Bryn—The best sort of pewter
consists of 100 parts of tin, and 17 of regulus of
antimony.

PEWTER, Harri—Melt together [2 lbs. of

tin, I lb. of regulus of antimony, and 4 oz. of
copper.
PI.’VCHBEC1(.——I. Put into a crucible 5 oz.
of pure copper; when it is in a state of fusion
add I oz. of zinc. These metals combine, forming
an alloy not unlike jeweler’s gold; out it into
a mould of any shape. This alloy 15 used for
inferior jewelry.

Some use only half this quantity of zinc, in
which proportion the alloy is more easily worked,
especially in the making of jewelry.

2. Melt together I oz. of brass with 1% or 2
oz. of copper, fused under a coat of charcoal dust.

' 432

PLA TING and GILDING evil/taut a Bat -
1y.—A very useful solution of silver or gold for
plating or gilding without the aid of a battery
may be made as follows: Take, say, I ounce of
nitrate of silver, dissolved in I quart of distilled
or rain water. When thoroughly dissolved,
throw in a few crystals of hyposulphite of soda,
which will at first form a brown precipitate, but
which eventually becomes redissolved if suffi-
cient hyposulphite has been employed. A slight
excess of this salt must, however, ‘be added.
The solution thus formed may be used for coat-
ing small articles of steel, brass, or German sil-
ver, by simply dipping a sponge in the solution
and rubbing it over the surface of the article to
be coated. I have succeeded in coating steel
very satisfactorily by this means, and have found
the silver so firmly attached to the steel (when
the solution has been carefully made) that it has
been removed with considerable difficulty. A
solution of gold may be made in the same way,
and applied as described. A concentrated solu-
tion of either gold or silver thus made, may be
used for coating parts of articles which have
stripped or blistered, by applying it with a camel
hair pencil to the art, and touching the spot at
the same time wit 1 a thin clean strip of zinc.

PLA TING on Iran and Sled—Take two
quarts rain water, dissolve two pounds cyanide
of potassium, and filter. This solution is only
for steel or iron. In order to plate steel or iron,
dip it into pure sulphuric acid for one minute,
then clean with pumice stone and brush; rinse,
and hang in cyanide solution of potassium for
three minutes, or until it becomes white; then
hang in silver solution until plated heavy enough.

FLA TED ME TAL, Tertfim—A cold solu-
tion of bichromate of potassa in nitric acid is,
according to Dr. Bottger, an excellent test for
the genuineness of silver-plating on metals.
The metallic surface to be tested is first of all
cleaned with strong alcohol, in order to remove
dirt, fatty matter, and especially any varnish.
A drop of the test-fluid is then applied to the
metallic surface by means of a glass rod, and
immediately afterwards washed off with some
cold water. If pure silver is present, there will
appear a blood<red colored mark (chromate of
silver). Upon German silver the test-liquid
appears brown, but, after washing with water,
the blood-red colored mark does not appear; the
so-called Britannia metal is colored black ; on
platinum no action is visible; metallic surfaces
coated with an amalgam of mercury yield areddish
speck, which, however, is entirely washed off by
water; on lead and bismuth the test-liquid forms
a yellow-colored precipitate; zinc and tin are
both strongly acted upon by this test-liquid; the
stain, as regards the former metal, is entirely
removed by water, while, as regards the latter,
the test-liquid is colored brownish, and addition
of water produces a yellow precipitate which
somewhat adheres to tie tin.

PLASTER FIGURES, To give Me Ap-
pearance cf Brawn—Make a preparation of
palm soap, five ounces; sulphate of copper, one
and a half ounces, and sulphate of iron, one and
a half ounces. Dissolve the soap in rain water in
one vessel and the sulphates in another. Put
together and let settle, then pour off the water.
Dry the precipitate, and apply to the figure by
mixing as a paint with linseed oil and turpentine.

POLISHED IRONS, T a Preserve from

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

Rum—Polished iron-work may be preserved
from rust by a mixture not very expensive, con-
sisting of copal varnish intimately mixed with.
as much olive-oil as will give it a degree or
greasiness, adding thereto nearly as much spirit
of turpentine as of varnish; or varnish with wax
dissolved in benzine. The cast-iron work is
best preserved by rubbing it with black-lead.

But where rust has begun to make its appear-
ance on grates or fireoirons, apply a mixture of
tripoli, with half its quantity of sulphur, infi-
mately mingled on a marble slab and laid on
with apiece of soft leather; or emery and oil
may be applied with excellent effect; not laid
on in the usual slovenl way, but with a spongy
piece of the fig-tree ful y saturated with the mix
ture. This will not only clean, but polish, ann
render the use of whiting unnecessary.

POLISHING POWDER—Jewelers and
others who have use for jewelers’ rouge as a
polish for glass or metal will find the following:
a perfect recipe : Dissolve any quantity of good
green vitriol (sulphate of iron) in enough water
not to leave a sediment. When well dissolved,
drop into the water small lumps of carbonate 0‘
ammonia until the iron falls to the bottom in the
form of a fine powder (the peroxide of iron).
Keep on dropping in ammonia until no mere
iron falls. Let the water stand awhile until it
clears, then pour it off. Turn the iron pc wder
between two sheets of blotting paper, and press
it to get it as dry as possible. Then turn it into
an old teacup or orcelain crucible and stand it
over a clear goo fire until the iron is just red
hot (in the dark) and no more. When this is
done you have the best polishing powder known
in the trade at a very trifling cost.

PUTTYPOLISIIERS.—x. Mel‘ tin, rake
off the dross as it is formed, and cafeine this
dross till it becomes whitish.—-2. Melt tin .' oz.
with an equal weight, or 1% oz. of lead, and
then raise the heat so as to render the mixed
metals red hot, when the tin will be immediately
flung out in the state of putty. Both are very
hard, used for polishing glass and japan work,
and to color opaque white enamel.

RUST, T 0 Remove from Fair's/zed Steel 01‘
Iron.—-—Sometimes rust can be removed from
polished iron or steel with little difficulty; but
sometimes it can not be made to disappear with-
out polishing the surface anew. Rust is oxide
of iron. The oxygen of the atmosphere unites
with the iron chemically, thus forming a thin
scale on the surface, not one thousandth part of
an inch in thickness. Red rust may be formed
on the polished surface a thousand times without
materially corroding the metal, provided it be
removed soon after it has formed. The usual
manner of removing red rust is to cover the
rusty portion with common olive oil, and rub it
in well with a woolen cloth. After it has stood
a few hours, rub the parts with finely pulverized
slaked lime, or Spanish whiting, until the rust
is all removed. If red rust is allowed to accu-
mulate until the polished surface is corroded,
sweet oil and a severe rubbing will seldom
remove it. The entire surface must be repol-
ished with emery, or some other grit, before
black rust will disappear from polished steel or
any other metal.

RUSSIAzV SIJ’EET-IROZV, Il/amzfathlre
of.—The refined iron is hammered under the
tilt-hammer into narrow slabs, calculated to pro-

WORKERS IN AIETALS.

433

 

duce a sheet of finished iron two archines by
one, (fifty-six inches by twenty-eight inches,)
weighing when finished from six to twelve
pounds. These slabs are called balvanky. They
are put in the reheating furnaces, heated to a
red heat, and rolled down in three 0 erations to
something like a sheet, the rolls being screwed
tighter as the surface gets thinner. This must
be subsequently hammered to reduce its thick-
ness and to receive the glance. Anumber of
these sheets having been again heated to a red
heat, have charcoal, pounded to as impalpable a
powder as possible, shaken between them
through the bottom of a linen bag. The pile,
then receiving a covering and a bottom in the
shape of a sheet of thicker iron, is placed under
a heavy hammer; the bundle, gras ed with tongs
by two men, is poked backwar and forward
by the gang, so that every part may be well
hammered. So soon as the redness goes off,
they are finished, so far as this part of the ope-
ration goes. So far they have received some of
the glance, or necessary polish; they are again
heated, and treated differently in this respect;
but instead of having the powdered charcoal
strewed between them, each two red‘hot sheets
have a cold-finished sheet put between them;
they are again hammered, and after this process
are finished, as far as thickness and glance goes.

Thrown down separately to cool, they are
taken to the shears, placed on a frame of the
regulation size, and trimmed. Each sheet is
then weighed, and after being thus assorted in

‘ weights, are finally sorted into first, second, and
thirds, according to their glance and freedom
from flaws and spots. A first-class sheet must
be like a mirror, without a spot upon it. One
hundred puds of balvanky make seventy puds
of finished sheets; but this allowance for waste
is far too large, and might easily be reduced.
Four heats are required to finish.

The general weight per sheet is from six to
twelve pounds, the larger demand being from
ten to eleven pounds; but they are made weigh-
ing as much as thirty ounds, and may then al-
most be called thin boxler-plates, being used for
stoves, etc. Besides the finished sheets, a quan-

tity of what are called red sheets are made, which ,

are not polished, and do not undergo the last
operation.

SA W'S, To Aland when Brokaw—Pure silver
19 parts; pure copper I part; ure brass 2 parts;
all are to be filed into pow er and intimately
mixed. Place the saw level upon the anvil, the
broken edges in close contact, and hold them so;
now put a small line of the mixture along the
seam, covering it with a large bulk of powdered
charcoal; now, with a spirit-lamp and a jewel~
ers’ blow-pipe, hold the coal-dust in place, and
blow sufficient to melt the solder mixture; then
with a hammer set the joint smooth, if not al-
ready so, and file away any superfluous solder;
and you will be surprised at its strength.

SA WS, T emperinm—The usual method of
tempering saws is to heat and then di them in
oil. This process is slow, costly, and laborious.
It is also disadvantageous, because the saws be-'
come warped, and require to be hammered up
straight again by hand. A late improvement
consists in tempering and straightening the saws
at one operation. This is done by heating the
saws to the proper degree, and then ressing
them with a sudden and powerful stroke etween

 

two surfaces of cold iron. A drop press is em-
ployed for the purpose. The mechanism is quite
simple and inexpensive. Its use effects an im-
portant economy in the manufacture of nearly
all kinds of saws, and also improves their qual-
it .

ySA W TEE T H, Shape? ofi—The adaptation
of tools, in form and construction, to the nature
of the work required of them, is an important
item in every branch of mechanical industry,
and in none more vitally than in the sawing of
lumber. The distinction to be made according
to the direction in which the saw is to run,
whether across the grain or with the grain, is
sufficiently plain, and is familiar to every work-
man in a saw mill. As the fiber of the wood to
be Severed in cross cutting presents a firm, al-
most unyielding resistance to the saw, the teeth
are of an acute or lancet-like shape, cutting the
wood rapidly asunder, as if with a succession of
knives, and producing a fine granular sawdust;
while the teeth of the rip saw, cutting with or
rather separating the grain, are made compara-
tively large and coarse, encountering less resis-
tance from the wood, which they tear into small
chips or shavings. The experience of workmeni
in soft and especially in gummy or resinous.
woods, such as pitch pine, larch, etc. , gives still‘
more striking proof of the necessity of adapting;
the saw to the nature of the material in which it
is to operate. To prevent the choking of the:
saw, and a resulting demand for additional pow--
er to maintain the motion, the points of the teeth:
require to be made acute and to have consider-
able pitch, in order to overcome the obstruction.
of damp sawdust accumulating in their path;
and in gummy wood, an application of grease is.
often necessary, as a remedy for the heating andi
friction caused by the tendency of the resin to,
adhere to the saw.

It ma be stated, in general terms, that ibr‘
soft or yielding woods, of the class of which the:
willow and pine are common examples, the pitch:
should be greater, and the teeth large and acute--
ly pointed. For mahogany, rosewood, and; other
woods of tough and dense fiber, teeth of less,
size and of perpendicular pitch are appropriatei.
The principle which should govern the shape of:
saw teeth is indeed an extremely simple one,
and would seem to require no formal statement,
more especially as it is certain to make itself!
manifest, if disregarded, upon a brief experiment.
In practice, however, it often fails to receive due
attention, and no small amount of inconvenience
and actual loss is occasioned by neglect of this;
material point.

SA I/V, T 0 Put in Orders—First, the saw-

,should be set; this may be done by laying the

blade flat upon a piece of heavy plank or scant--
ling, and bending the teeth with a hammer and:
punch. The set, or punch, can be made of a.
three-cornered saw file, broken off at each end,
and the smallest end ground square; Set the'
punch square upon the tooth, but inclined from.
you, so that it rests mainly upon the point of‘
the tooth, and hit it a light blow with the ham:-
mer. Every other tooth should be bent in this
manner, then the saw turned over, and the 0pm-
ration repeated. The set already in the» saw
will be the guide as to the direction the tooth is
to be bent. If the saw, previous to setting, is
inclined to catch and jump, one of three things
is t2; matter; the set is uneven, a. few teeth are

434

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

longer than the rest, or the teeth have been filed
hooking. Either of these troubles can be easily
detected and remedied. If by looking along the
teeth from end to end, an unevenness is seen,
lay the blade upon the head of an axe, or some-
thing of the kind, and strike gently upon the
sides of the teeth with a hammer until all of the
set is removed; then set the saw as above directed.
If after the saw is properly set, some of the teeth
should be longer than others, put the blade be-
tween two thin boards, three or four inches
wide, and as long as the saw; screw them firm-
ly in a vice, the same as for filing, and run a
flat saw-mill file lengthwise along the teeth until
they are brought level. The saw is now ready
for filing. The file should be placed between
the teeth in a diagonal direction, but held level.
Every other space should be filed from the Small
end to the handle; then the remaining spaces
filed by holding the file at an opposite angle.
After this operation is completed, then look
across the teeth again, and if the channel be-
tween the rows of teeth terminates in the centre,
the filing is good; if it terminates at one side of
the centre, the full side needs more filing. If
the saw catches and jumps after jointing up, it
will be owing to the teeth having been filed too
hooking, or, in other words, the points inclined
too much towards the narrow end of the saw.
This can be remedied by refiling and taking off
from the lower side of the teeth enough to make
them stand upright on the blade. Always file
where there is sufficient light to enable you to
see points distinctly. Be exceedingly careful to
stop filing as soon as the tooth is filed to a per-
fect point. One thrust with the file after a tooth
has been brought to a complete edge, will short-
en it, put the saw out of order just in proportion
as the point is filed off. Let the points be set
uniformly, and only a little. Go over the teeth
with an old file, and give them a more perfect
cutting-edge. Then lay the blade flatly on a
smooth board, and pass a fine-gritted Whetstone
along the sides of the points, to remove the wiry
edge, and to give the teeth as fine a cutting-edge
as practicable.

SA WS (Large), Sharpening the T661}! of.—
In extensive lumber districts, where large saws
of any description are employed, the mere cost
of the files necessary for filing the teeth is an
item of great expense during the year. The
teeth of a large circular saw for cutting logs into
lumber will frequently be equivalent to the cut-
ting edge of a straight saw twelve to sixteen feet
in length. When the points of only one or two
of the teeth happen to get dulled, the expense
for files alone. not including labor, will frequent-
ly exceed one dollar to put the saw in order,
especially if the length of the teeth be maintained
by filing into the blade at the base of each tooth
as much as the points are filed off.

In lieu of large files, foremen of many saw-
mills employ a narrow grindstone hung on a
journal having turned bearings neatly fitted to
metallic boxes, so that the stone must revolve
true. Any grindstone may be employed for
such a purpose by turning a small portion of the

eriphery of the desired form to fit the spaces
lietween the teeth. One side of the stone should
be dressed at a right angle with a line cutting
the centre of the journal, for grinding the face-
edge of the teeth; and the opposite side shouldbe
beveled to correspond with the back of each tooth.

 

The most efficient tool for turning off the
grindstone may be made of a bar of Swede’s
iron, by drawing out one end about as large as
a man’s little finger, and turning up about half
an inch of the point. Such a tool, made of very
soft iron, will be found much more efficient than
if it were steel. When turning the stone off,
let it revolve about one hundred times per
minute.

Now, make a table on which to place the saw
when grinding the teeth; and dress both the
front and back of each tooth square across the
blade. Let the periphery of the stone be kept
wet, when in use; as the grit will cut cleaner
than if the stone were dry. Water will also
prevent heating the teeth. After the teeth have
been ground properly, if it is desirable that the
cutting points should be flaring, for sawing
across the grain of timber, use a triangular file
for beveling the face of every tooth. The backs
of teeth do not need to be beveled in any saw,
as there is nothing gained by it. Furthermore,
it will always be found more expensive, both in
files and in labor, than to file square across the
teeth. For sawing with the grain, both the
face and back should be dressed square across
the blade. When a saw is put in order for cut—
ting across the grain, if only one-eighth ofan
inch of the points be filed obliquely on the face-
edge, the saw will cut quite as rapidly as if the
teeth were beveled both on the face and back
edges.

A grindstone will often save from fifty to one
Eundred dollars per annum in the value of large

les.

In many machine-shops and manufactories,
where a large number of small saws are em-
ployed, emery-wheels are used extensively for
sharpening. The emery-wheel is hung on a
neatly turned mandrel, and held between iron
collars, like a circular saw. The periphery is
made of the requisite form to fit the teeth. In
some instances, when circular saws are being
sharpened by an emery-wheel, the saw is secur-
ed to a journal, as it rests flat on the table, so
that every tooth may be dressed with greater
precision than could otherwise be attained, ex-
cept by filers of long experience.

SILVER, To Alloy—Cop er is the only less
precious metal that alloys we 1 with silver. Its
addition is a decided improvement on the ori-
ginal, rendering it harder, finer in appearance
and more sonorous; andit is astonishing to note
the quantity that may be added without other-
wise changing the first appearance of the metal.
An alloy of silver and copper in the proportion
of four-fifths silver to one of copper, is ully as
white as the silver would be entirely pure.
When the proportion of copper rises above one.
fifth, it begins to have an influence in the color.
American coin silver is one-tenth copper.

The baser white metals cannot be alloyed
with silver to any great extent, owing to the fact
that they impart to the compound too great a
degree of brittleness. A small pro ortion of
block tin virtually converts it into bel metal.

The following is, perhaps, the best known
composition for a cheap silver: Pure silver, say
one ounce; copper, one-sixth of an ounce; brass,
two-thirds of an ounce; bismuth, one-third of
an ounce; clean salt, two-thirds of an ounce;
white arsenic, one-third of an ounce; and potash,
one-third of an ounce. Melt the silver, copper

WORKERS IN METALS.

and brass first, then add the other articles in the
order 'named. Sprinkle a very little borax into
the crucible while melting—too much will have
a tendency to render the metal unmalleable.

SIL VEA’, To Clank—Never use a particle
of soap on your silver ware, as it dulls the luster,
giving the article more the appearance of pewter
than silver. When it wants cleaning rub it With
a piece of soft leather and prepared chalk, the
latter made into a kind of paste with pure water.

51L VEB, Mixture fir Cleaning.—Common
prepared chalk, or whiting, % lb.; gum cam-
phor, % 02.; aqua ammonia and alcohol, of each
I 02. ; benzine, 3 oz. ; mix well together, and
apply with a soft sponge, and allow it to dry be-
fore polishing.

SILVER, 7b keep Brig/th—For the pre-
servation of the luster of articles of silver or
plated ware, when not needed for actual use for
a considerable time, a coating of collodion (to
be had at the drug stores), may be employed to
great advantage. The articles are to be heated,
and the collodion then carefully applied by means
of a brush, so as to cover the surface thoroughly
and uniformly. It is used most conveniently
when diluted with alcohol, as for photographic
purposes. Articles thus prepared exhibit no
trace whatever of their covering, and have stood
for more than a year in shop windows and in
dwellings, retaining their white luster and color,
while other pieces not thus prepared became se-
riously tarnished.

SIL VER, Frosted. ——To produce a frosted
surface on polished silver, use cyanide of potas-
sium with a brush, but do not handle it more
than you can help. Get a piece of lance wood
or box, and make a pair of wood liers. The
proportion should be an ounce disso ved in a half
pint of water. It is very poisonous.

SILVER, Counterfeit—{ombine by fusion
one part pure copper, twenty-four parts block
tin, one and a half parts pure antimony, one
fourth part pure bismuth and two parts clear
glass. The glass may be omitted save in cases
where it is an object to have the metal sonorous.

SII. VER (Dead Waite in), T a Katol't.—-
The process for producing or restoring the dead
white to silver is simple. Before attempting it,
the work must be carefully examined to discover
whether it has been previously repaired. Un-
skillful workmen often resort to “soft solder”
unnecessarily. If any “soft solder” (pewter) is
found about the. work, the process must not be
attempted. If the article is all right in that re-
spect, pound together three parts charcoal and
one of niter. Add sufficient water to form a
paste. With a camel’s-hair brush give the ar-
ticle a thin coat of the mixture, put it in a small
annealing pan, and submit it to the fire until it
becomes just red hot; then withdraw it from the
fire, let it stand a minute, and turn it out into a
weak solution of sul huric acid (one part acid,
ten parts water) in t e boiling pan. Boil, pour
off the acid, rinse; wash with Warm water and
soap, using a soft brush; dip in spirits of wine,
and dry in box-wood sawdust. If any spots
should still remain on the work, anneal it with-
out the mixture, boil out and wash as before.
Burnish the parts intended to be bright. Do not
use the common American saltpeter. The Eng-
lish refined niter, although it costs more, is re-
ally less expensive, as a smaller quantity goes
farther, and does the work more efi'ectually.

 

435

Purchase at the wholesale druggists. Never
neglect to dip your work in spirits of wine, and
dry in box-wood sawdust. You cannot dry it
properly by wiping; a moisture will remain and
the gloss is lost; while by dipping in spirits, all
jewelry and silver ornaments may be taken im-
mediately, thoroughly dry, and retaining their
full luster. '

SIL VEIi’, German.—The best German sil-
ver may be made by melting together twenty~
five parts copper, fifteen parts zinc and ten parts
nickel.

SIL VERING [ROM—Small wares of iron
may be effectually silvered without battery thus:
The articles are suspended in dilute sulphuric
acid until the iron shows a clean, bright surface.
After rinsing in pure water, they are placed in a
bath of a mixed solution of sulphate of zinc,
sulphate of copper and cyanide of potassium,
and here remain until they receive a bright coat-
ing of brass. Lastly, they are transferred to a
bath of nitrate of silver, cyanide of potassium
and sulphate of soda, in which they quickly
receive a coating of silver.

51]. VER [MITA TlONS.—-—Copper, I 1b.;
tin, % oz.; melt. This composition will roll and
ring ver near to silver. Britannia Metal: cop—

er, I b.; tin, I lb. ; regulus of antimony, 2
bs. ; melt together, with or without a little bis-
muth. Genuine German Silver: iron, 2% parts;
nickel, 31% parts; zinc, 25% parts; copper,
40% parts; melt. Fine Whit-e German Silver:
iron, 1 part; nickel, to parts; zinc, 10 parts;
copper, 20 parts; melt. Pinchbeck: copper, 5
parts; zinc, I part; melt the copper, then add
the zinc. Jewelers’ Metal: copper, 30 parts;
tin, 7 parts; brass, to parts; mix.

SILVERING.—A Bavarian has patented an
improved process for silvering copper, brass
and other alloys by means of a solution of silver
in cyanide of potassium. The difference from
the usual method consists in the use of zinc
filings, with which the objects are coated; when
the silvering solution is applied, an immediate
deposition of a much more durable character
takes place. The filings are easily removed by
rinsing in water, and maybe used repeatedly
for the same purpose. Metallic iron may be
coated with copper in the same manner, by
substituting for the silver a solution of copper in
the cyanide; and over this copper deposit a
coating of silver may be a plied.

SlL VER PLA TING, Salutians/br.—In
making any of these solutions, perfectly fine sil-
ver must be employed; or, if it be desired to use
standard or other impure silver, it will be better
to purify the silver by first dissolving it in nitric
acid; then add about one quart of cold water to
the acid solution obtained from dissolving four
ounces of silver. Now throw in a few pieces of
sheet copper to recipitate the silver. In a few
moments the si ver will begin to deposit itself
upon the copper, and by continuing the process
for some time, and adding a entle heat, the
whole of the silver will eventua iy become re-
cipitated in the form of minute crystals. hen
the pure silver is thus obtained, it is to be again
dissolved in two parts water and one part nitric
act .

Solution 1: Fine silver, 1 ounce; nitric acid,
about I ounce; water, '2 ounce.

Put the silver careful y into a Florence flask,
and then pour in the acid and water; place the

436

DICTIONARY OFEVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

flask on a sand bath for a few minutes, taking
care not to apply too much heat; and, as soon as
chemical action becomes violent, remove the flask
to a cooler place, and allow the action to go on
until it nearly ceases; when, if there be silver
still undissolved, the flask may be again placed
on the sand bath until the silver disappears. If,
however, the acid employed has been weak, it
may be necessary to add a little more. The red
fumes, formed when chemical action is going on,
disappear when the silver is dissolved, or when
the acid has done its work. If a little black
powder be visible at the bottom of the flask, it
may be taken care of separately, as it is gold.
I have frequently found gold in the silver pur-
chased of a refiner; in some instances more than
sufficient to pay the expense of the acid
em loyed.

he nitrate of silver formed during the above
operation should be carefully poured into a
porcelain or Wedgwood capsule, and heated

until a pellicle appears on the surface, when it'

may be placed aside to crystallize. The un-
crystallized liquor should then be poured from
the crystals into another capsule, andheat applied
until it has evaporated sufficiently to crystallize.
When this is done, the crystals of nitrate of
silver are to be placed in a large jar or other
suitable vessel, and about three pints of cold
distilled water added, the whole being well
stirred with a glass rod until the crystals are
dissolved.

A quantity of carbonate of potassa is now to
be dissolved in distilled water, and some of the
solution added to the nitrate of silver, until no
further precipitation takes place. It is advis-
able occasionally to put a little of the clear
solution in a glass, or test tube, and to add a
few drops of the solution of potassa, in order to
ascertain whether all the silver is thrown down,
or otherwise; as soon as the application of the
alkaline solution produces no effect upon the
solution of nitrate of silver, this operation is
complete.

The supernatant liquor (that is, the fluid
which remains above the precipitate) should next
be carefully poured off the precipitated silver, and
fresh water added; this is again allowed to settle,
and the water poured off as before, which ope-
ration should be repeated several times in order
to wash the precipitate thoroughly.

A quantity of cyanide of potassium is then to
be dissolved in hot or cold water, and rather
more than is sufficient to dissolve the precipitate
added. In a few minutes the carbonate of silver
will be dissolved by the cyanide, but in all pro-
bability there will be a trifling sediment at the
bottom of the vessel, which may be separated
from the solution by filtration, and preserved,
as in all probability it will contain a little silver.

Sufficient water is now to be added to make
one gallon of solution. Should the solution be
found to work rather slowly at first, a little of
the solution of cyanide may be added from time
to time, as it is required: but it is preferable, in
working a new solution, to have as small a pro-
portion of cyanide as possible, otherwise the
articles may strip, especially if theyare composed
of German silver.

When a silver solution has been worked for
some length of time, it acquires organic matter,
and is then capable of bearing, without injury,
a. larger proportion of cyanide.

 

It is necessar that‘ the nitric acid employed
for dissolving Silver should be of good commer-
cial quality, if not chemically pure, for if it
contain hydrochloric acid (which is not an un-
frequent adulteration), a portion of the silver
dissolved will become precxpitated in the form of
awhiteflocculent powder (chloride of silver), and
the success of the operation is thereby impaired.

Solution 2: To one ounce of silver, dissolved
and crystallized as above directed, is to be added
three pints of distilled water. The silver is to be
precipitated from this by adding gradually a
strong solution of cyanide of potassium. This
must be done with caution, as an excess of
cyanide will redissolve the precipitate. Should
the operator, however, accidentally apply too
much cyanide, a little nitrate of silver in solution
may be added, the silver of which will be preci-
pitated by the surplus cyanide. A portion of
the solution should be placed in a wineglass
occasionally, and a drop of cyanide added, until
no further effect is produced by this substance.

As soon as the precipitate (which is white) has
subsided, the clear solution is to be poured off,
and fresh water added, this being done several
times, as before, to wash the precipitate.

Three pounds of ferrocyanide of potassium
(yellow prussiate of potassa) may now be dis-
solved in water, and added to the precipitate.

When the precipitate is dissolved, add sufl‘i—
cient water to make one gallon of solution, which
should then be filtered before using. This
solution is not very profitable to the electro-plater,
as it requires fresh silver to be added frequently,
owing to the fact that the anode, or silver plate,
is 1 t acted upon by the ferrocyanide, therefore
the solution soon becomes deprived of its silver.
It may be used, however, for experimental
purposes.

Solution 3: One ounce of fine silver, dissolved
and treated as before, to which add three pints
of distilled water. Precipitate the silver by
adding a strong solution of common salt—an
excess does no harm. A single drop of hydro-
chloric acid will show whether all the silver is
thrown down or not. The white precipitate
thus formed (which is chloride of silver) is to be
washed as before.

A quantity of hyposulphite of soda is next
dissolved in hot distilled water, and a sufficient
quantity added to dissolve the precipitate. VVa-
ter is then to be added to make one gallon.
This solution is decomposed by light, and should
therefore be kept covered up, or in a dark place.
It is not much used by electro-platers.

Solution 4: One ounce of fine silver treated
as before, and dissolved in three pints of distilled
water. Precipitate with common salt, and wash,
as above directed. Dissolve the precipitate with
a strong solution of cyanide of potassium, tak-
ing care not to add much more than will dissolve
the chloride of silver. Filter carefully, at least
once through the same filtering paper, and once
through clean filtering paper, and then add
enough distilled water to make one gallon of
solution.

The above solution is very useful when it is
desired to plate an article delicately white, but
the silver is liable to strip when the burnisher is
applied to it. This solution, however, may be
employed with less fear of the work stn ping,
if it be used weaker, with a small sur ace of
anode and feeble battery power. I

WORKERS IN METALS.

Under all circumstances this solution is more
applicable to surfaces which only require to .be
scratch-brushed, or which are to be left dead.
Chased figures, clock dials, cast metal work,
etc., may be admirably plated with this solu-
tion. '

Solution 5: One ounce of fine silver, as be-
fore, and the crystals dissolved in three pints of
distilled water. Add strong solution of cyanide
of potassium until no further precipitation takes
place. If too much cyanide be added, it will re-
dissolve the precipitate. Pour off the super-
natant liquor and wash the silver as before.
Now add strong solution of c ankle to dissolve
the precipitate. Make one ga lon with distilled
water. The solution should have a moderate
excess of cyanide, and it must be filtered before
using.

Solution 6: A silver solution may be made
by dissolving one ounce of silver as before.
Dissolve the crystals in one pint of distilled wa-
ter. Next be prepared with a large vessel full
of lime water, made by adding recently slaked
lime to an ample quantity of water, which, it
must be remembered, dissolves but a very small
percentage of lime. To the clear lime water is
to be added the solution of nitrate of silver,
which will be converted into a dark brown pre-
cipitate (oxide of silver). When all the silver
is thrown down, the clear liquor is to be poured
off, and the precipitate washed as before. N ow
add strong cyanide of potassium solution to dis-
solve the oxide of silver, and make one gallon
with distilled water.

This makes a very excellent solution, although
it is somewhat troublesome to prepare.

Solution 7: Dissolve in one gallon of water
one ounce and a quarter of cyanide of potassium,
in a stoneware or glass vessel. Fill a porous
cell with some of this solution, and place it in
the larger vessel; the solution should be the
same hight in both vessels. Then put a piece
of sheet copper or iron, connected with the wire
which proceeds from the zinc of the battery, into
the porous cell. Place in the stone vessel a
piece of stout sheet silver, which must be pre-
viously attached to the wire issuing from the
copper of the battery. It is well to employ
several cells alternated, for this purpose, when
a large quantity of solution has to be prepared;
that is to say, the zinc of one battery should be
united by a wire with the copper of the next,
and so on. In a few hours the solution in the
larger vessel will have acquired sufficient silver,
and the solution may be at once used. The
porous cell is to be removed, and its contents
may be thrown away.

In working this solution, at first it is neces-
sary to expose a rather large surface of anode,
and small quantities of cyanide must be added
occasionally until the solution is in brisk work-
ing order.

This is one of the best solutions, when care-
fully prepared, and is less liable to strip than
many others.

Solutions of silver may be prepared b preci-
pitating the silver from the solution 0 nitrate
with ammonia, soda, magnesia, etc., etc., but
for all practical purposes the solutions I, 4, 5, 6,
and 7, may, if carefully prepared, be depended
u on.

pWhen it is desired that the articles should
come out of the bath having a bright appearance,

 

437

a little bisulphuret of carbon is added to the so-
lution. This is best done in the following man-
ner: Put an ounce of bisulphuret of carbon into
a pint bottle containing a strong silver solution
with cyanide in excess. The bottle should be
repeatedly shaken, and the mixture is ready for
use in a few days. A few drops of this solution
may be poured into the plating bath occasionally,
until the work appears sufficiently bright. The
bisulphuret solution, however, must be added
with care, for an excess is apt to spoil the solu-
tion. In plating surfaces which cannot easily
be scratch-brushed, this brightening process is
serviceable. The operator, however, must never
add too much at a time.

In making up any of the foregoing solutions,
the weights and measures employed are troy, or
apothecaries’ weight, and imperial measure.

SlL VER PLA TING FL UlD.—Dissolve
I ounce of nitrate of silver in crystal, in 12 oun-
ces of soft water, then dissolve in the water 2
ounces cyanuret of potash, shake the whole to-
gether, and let it stand till it becomes clear.
Have ready some half ounce vials, and fill half
full of Paris white, or fine whiting, and then fill
up the bottles with the liquor, and it is ready
for use. The whiting does not increase the
coating power, it only helps to clean the ar-
ticles, and to save the silver fluid, by half filling
the bottles.

SIL VERl/VG P0 WDER.—-For silvering
copper, covering the worn parts of plated goods,
etc.-—I. Nitrate of silver, common salt, each 30
grs.; cream of tartar, 3 % drs. Mix. Moisten
with cold water and rub on the article to be sil-
vered.—-2. Pure silver (precipitated from the
nitrate by copper), 20 grs. ; cream of tartar, 2
drs.; salt, 2 drs.-—3. Precipitated silver, % 02.;
common salt, sal ammoniac, each 2 oz. ; corro-
sive sublimate, I dr. Make into a paste with
water. Copper utensils are previously boiled
with cream of tartar and alum, rubbed with this
paste made red hot and afterwards polished.—
4. Nitrate of silver, I part; cyanide of potas-
sium, 3 parts; water enough to make a. paste.

SIL VER, To Raina—Dissolve in nitric acid
as in the case of the gold. When the silver has
entirely disappeared, add to the two and a half
ounces of solution nearly one quart of pure rain
water. Sink, then, a sheet of clean copper into
it—the silver will collect rapidly upon the cop-
per, and you can scrape it off and melt into bulk
at pleasure.

In the event you were refining gold in accord-
ance with the foregoing formula, and the impu»
rity was silver, the only steps necessary to save
the latter would be to add the above named pro-
portion of water to the solution poured from the
gold, and then to proceed with your copper
plate as just directed.

51L VER T arm'r/zezz' in Soldering, T a Clean.
—Some expose to a uniform heat, as in the case
of gold, and then boil in strong alum water.
Others immerse for a considerable length of
time in a liquid made of half an ounce of cyanu—
ret potassa to one pint rain water, and then
brush off with prepared chalk.

SIL VER, T o makt T ram-parent—Refined
silver, one ounce; dissolve it in two ounces of
aqua fortis; precipitate it with a pugil (a quan-
tity that may be taken up between the thumb
and finger) of salt, then strain it through a
paper, and the remainder melt in a crucible for

438

about half an hour, and pour it out, and it will
be transparent.

SIL VEA’ LEAF, To Varnish like Gold.—
Fix the leaf on the subject, similar to gold leaf,
by the interposition of proper glutinous matters;
spread the varnish upon the piece with apencil.
When die first coat is dry wash the piece again
and again With the varnish till the color appears
sufficiently deep. What is called gilt-leather,
and many picture-frames, have no other than
this gilding; washing them with a little rectified
spirit of wine affords a proof of this, the spirit
dissolving the varnish, and leaving the silver-
leaf of its own whiteness. For plain frames
thick tin-foil may be used instead of silver.
The tin-leaf, fixed On the piece with glue, is to
be burnished, then polished with emery and a
fine linen cloth, and afterwards with putty ap-
plied in the same manner; being thenlacquered
over with varnish 5 or 6 times, it looks very
nearly like burnished gold. The same varnish,
made with a less proportion of coloring ma-
terials, is applied also on works of brass, both
for heightening the color of the metal to a re-
semblance with that of gold, and for preserving
it from being tarnished by the air. -

SILVER, To write on wit/z a Black. t/iaf
will nevergo oflI—Take burnt lead and pulverize
it. Incorporate it next with sulphur and vinegar,
to the consistency of a painting color, and
write with it on any silver plate. Let it dry,
then present it to the fire so as to heat the work
a little, and it is finished.

SPEC ULA, Felix/ling Powderflr.———Prepare
peroxide of iron, by precipitation, froma diluted
solution of sulphate of iron with water of am-
monia. Wash the precipitate, press it in a
screw press until nearly dry, and expose it to a
heat which in the dark appears a dull red.

SPRINGS ( Trap), To T tarpon—For temp-
ering cast steel trap springs, all that is necessary
is to beat them in the dark just that you may see
it is red, then cool them in lukewarm water.
The reason why darkness is required to temper
springs is that a lower degree of heat can be
seen in the night than by day—light; and thelow
heat and warm water give the desired temper.

SPRINGS of IRON W]A’E.——After wind-
ing the wire around the mandrel, take the latter
out and replace it with a rod of common rough
iron, large enough to quite fill the spring, as
after the spring has been cut off, it will unwind
enough to increase the diameter considerably.
Then take the rod with the spring on it, and
heat to a cherry red, after which sprinkle it with
prussiate of potash. Repeat this two or three
times. After putting on the salt for the last
time, heat again and plunge into cold water, and
you will have a spring as brittle as glass. Then
put oil on it, retaining the spring on the rod,
and heat till the oil burns off with a blaze.

S OLDER, To Make Adhere to Brass or Cop-
per.——Prepare a soldering solution in this way:
Pour a small quantity of muriatic acid on some
zinc filings, so as to completely cover the zinc.
Let it stand about an hour, and then pour off
the acid, to which add twice its amount of wa-
ter. By first wetting the brass or copper with
this preparation, the solder will readily adhere.
V SOLDER, Common.—-Put into a crucible 2
lbs. of lead, and when melted throw in I lb. of
tin. This alloy is that generally known by the
name of solder. When heated by a. hot iron

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

and applied to tinned iron with powdered rosin,
it acts as a cement or solder; it is also used to
join leaden pipes, etc.

SOLDER, Hard—Melt together 2 lbs. cop-
per and 1 lb. tin.

S OLDER, Soft. —A strong, easily flowing
and white solder is composed of lead one part,
and tin 2 parts. When the lead is melted up
put in the tin, and then throw in a small piece
of resin as a flux. In soldering fine work, wet
the arts to be joined with muriatic acid in
whic as much zinc has been dissolved as the
acid will take up. It is cleaner than the old
method of using Venetian turpentine or resin.
A method of making silver solder : Put into a
clean crucible pure silver two arts, clean brass
one part, with a small piece 0 horax ; melt and
pour into ingot. Formerly the solder was re-
tumed to the crucible for a second melting, but
it is not necessary. The solder flows easily and
clean. Solder made from coin, as it frequently
is, often melts with difficulty, and remains lum y
around the joints, requiring the use of the le
to remove it, while the addition of any of the
inferior metals to the solder causes it to eat into
the article joined by it.

SOLDEA’ (To Soft) Article:.——Moisten the
parts to be united with soldering fluid; then,
having joined them together, lay a small piece
of solder upon the joint and hold over your
lamp, or direct the blaze upon it with your
blow-pipe until fusion is apparent. Withdraw
then from the blaze immediately, as too much
heat will render the solder brittle and unsatis-
factory. When the parts to be joined can be
made to spring or press against each other, it is
best to place a thin piece of solder between
them before exposing to the lamp.

Where two smooth surfaces are to be soldered
one upon the other, you may make an excellent
job by moistening them with the fluid, and then,
having placed a sheet of tin foil between them,
holding them pressed firmly together over your
lamp till the foil melts. If the surfaces fit nice-
ly a joint may be made in this way so close as
to be almost imperceptible. The brightest look-
ing lead which comes as a lining to tin boxes
works better in the same way than tin foil.

S OLDER, Silver.—I. Hardest. Silver, 4
parts, copper, 1 part; fuse together. 2. Hard.
Sterling silver, 3 parts, melt, add brass wire, I
part. 3. Sqfl. Silver, 2 parts, melt, add brass
Wire, I part. This is generally used; some add
a little arsenic, to make it whiter and more fu-
sible, but it becomes less malleable, and more
injurious. 4. Pure tin, or tin solder, (2 lead to
I tin,) used for inferior works.

SOLDERING (So/l), Lz'guidfar.—A liquid
for soldering tin, iron, or copper with soft sol-
der, is obtained when the solution of zinc in
muriatic acid is gradually heated, and then a
proportionate quantity of oxide or carbonateof
tin in powder is added to neutralize the liquid.
The same will not corrode the seams like that
made of zinc and acid alone. For a fine job on
tin, stearic acid obtained from the candle fac~
tories is much preferable to resin, etc., and Will
not run off so easily from the soldering iron.

SOLDIER/[VG FERRULESfir Tool-[fan-
a'les, eta—Take your ferrule, lap round the jom~
ing a small piece of brass wire, then just wet
the ferrule, scatter on the joining-ground, borax,
put it on the end of a wire, hold it in the fire

WORKERS IN METALS.

It will fill up the joining,

till the brass fuses.
It may afterwards

and form a perfect solder.
be turned in the lathe.

STEEL, To Dz‘rz‘inguz'rfi from Irma—The
principal characters by which steel may be dis-
tinguished from iron, are as follows :—

1. After being polished, steel appears of a
whiter light gray hue, without the blue cast.ex-
hibited by iron. It also takes a higher polish.

2. The hardest steel, when not annealed, ap-
pears granulated, but dull, and without shining
fibres.

3. When steeped in acids the harder the steel
is, of a darker hue is its surface.

4. Steel is not so much inclined ro rust as
iron.

5. In general, steel has a greater specific
gravity. .

6. By being hardened and wrought, it may be
rendered much more elastic than iron.

7. It is not attracted so strongly by the mag-
net, as soft iron. It likewise acquires magnetic
properties more slowly, but retains them longer;
for which reason, steel is used in making needles
for compasses and artificial magnets.

8. Steel is ignited sooner, and fuses with less
degree of heat than malleable iron, which can
scarcely be made to fuse without the addition of
powdered charcoal; by which it is converted into
steel, and afterwards into crude iron.

9. Polished steel is sooner tinged by heat,
and that with higher colors than iron.

10. In a calcining heat, it suffers less loss by
burning than soft iron does in the same heat,
and the same time. In calcination a light blue
flame hovers Over the steel, either with or with-
out a sulphureous odor.

I I. The scales of steel are harder and sharper
than those of iron; and consequently more fit
for polishing with.

12. In a white heat, when exposed to the
blast of the bellows among the coals, it begins
to sweat, wet, or melt, partly with light-colored
and bright, and partly with red sparkles, but
less crackling than those of iron. In a melting
heat, too, it consumes faster.

13. In the sulphuric, nitric, and other acids,
steel is violently attacked, but is longer in dis-
solving than iron. After maceration, according
as it is softer or harder, it appears of a lighter
or darker gray color; while iron on the other
hand is white.

STEEL, Bessemer Process of Making.——-He-
matite pig-iron smelted with coke and hotblast
has chiefly been used. The metal is melted in
a reverberatory furnace, and is then run into a
founder’s ladle, and from thence it is transferred
to the vessel in which its conversion into steel is
to be effected. It is made of stout plate iron and
lined with a powdered argillaceous stone found
in this neighborhood below the coal, and known
as ganister. The converting vessel is mounted
on axes, which rest on stout iron standards, and
by means of a wheel and handle it may be
turned into any required position. There is an
opening at the top for the inlet and pouring out
of the metal, and at the lowest part are inserted
7 fireclay tuyeres, each having 'five openings in
them; these openings communicate at one end
with the interior of the vessel, and at the other
end with a box called the tuyere-box, into which
a current of air from a suitable blast engine is
conveyed under a pressure of about I4 lbs. to

 

439

the square inch, a pressure more than sufficient
to prevent the fluid metal from entering the
tuyeres. Before commencing the first operation,
the interior of the vessel is heated by coke, a
blast through the tuyeres being used to urge the
fire. When sufficiently heated, the vessel is
turned upside down, and all the unburned coke
is shaken out. The molten pig-iron is then run
in from the ladle before referred to; the vessel,
during the pouring in of the iron, is kept in such
a position that the orifices of the tuyeres are at
a higher level than the surface of the metal.
When all the iron has run in the blast is turned
on, and the vessel quickly moved round. The
air then rushes upwards into fluid metal from
each of the 35 small orifices of the tuyeres, pro-
ducing a most violent agitation of the whole
mass. The silicium, always present in greater
or less quantities in pig-iron, is first attacked.
It unites readily with the oxygen of the air,
producing silicic acid; at the same time a small
portion of the iron undergoes oxidation, hence
a fluid silicate of the oxide of iron is formed, a
little carbon being simultaneously eliminated.
The heat is thus gradually increased until nearly
the whole of the silicium is oxidized; this gene-
rally takes place in about 12 minutes from the
commencement of the process. The carbon
now begins to unite more freely with the oxygen
of the air, producing at first a small flame, which
rapidly increases, and in about three minutes
from its first appearance we have a most intense
combustion going on: the metal rises higher and
higher in the vessel, sometimes occupying more
than double its former space. The frothy liquid
now presents an enormous surface to the action
of the oxygen of the air, which unites rapidly
with the carbon contained in the crude iron, and
produces a most intense combustion, the whole,
in fact, being a perfect mixture of metal and fire.
The carbon is now eliminated so rapidly as to
produce a series of harmless explosions, throw-
ing out the fluid slags in great quantities, while
the union of the gases is so perfect that a volum-
inous white flame rushes from the mouth of
the vessel, illuminating the whole building, and
indicating to the practiced eye the precise condi-
tion of the metal inside. The workman may
thus leave off whenever the number of minutes
he has been blowing and the appearance of the
flame indicate the required quality of the metal.
This is the mode preferred in working the pro.
cess in Sweden. But here we prefer to blow the
metal until the flame suddenly stops, which it
does just on the approach of the metal to the
condition of malleable iron: a small quantity of
charcoal pig-iron, containing a known quantity
of carbon, is then added, and steel is produced
of any desired degree of carburation, the process
having occupied about 28 minutes from the
commencement. The vessel is then turned, and
the fluid steel is run into the casting ladle, which
is provided with a plug rod covered with loam:
the rod passes over the top of the ladle, and
works in guides on the outside of it, so that, by
means of a lever handle, the workman may move
it up and down as desired. The lower part of
the plug, which occupies the interior of the ladle,
has fitted to its lower end a fire-clay cone, which
rests in a seating of the same material let into
the bottom of the ladle, thus forming a cone
valve, by means of which the fluid steel is run
into different-sized moulds, as may be required,

44o

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

the stream of fluid steel being prevented by the
valve plug from flowing during the movement
of the casting ladle from one mould to another.
By tapping the metal from below, no scoria or
other extraneous floatingmatters are allowed to
pass into the mould.

STEEL, Heaton Proms: qf (Wakingfi—ThiS
is essentially a direct method of producing steel
chemically that bids fair to be of the very first
importance, and almost to revolutionize that
branch of industry. This, to express it in the
fewest words, consists in pouring melted iron
upon nitrate of soda in a cupola furnace, by
means of which the oxygen developed from the
nitrate combines with all the impurities—carbon,
silicon, phosphorus, sulphur, etc—which disap.
pear, leaving the iron in the form of a crude
steel, to be used in that form, or to be converted
bya subsequent process into cast steel. The
details of the process are as follows:

Cast iron of any quality (and this constitutes
the chief advantage of the new process) is melt-

ed in a common iron cupola furnace, and a‘

known quantity—from half a ton to a ton—is
' tapped out into an ordinary crane ladle, which
is swung round to the side of the converter.
This is a tall cylinder of boiler-plate iron, open
at the bottom, and with‘a space between it and
the floOr. There is a fire-brick lining to the
converter, and a conical covering, out of which
an iron funnel opens into the atmosphere. In
the bottom are placed a number of short cylin-
drical pots, lined with brick and fire-clay. Into
the bottom of one of these pots is placed agiven
weight of crude nitrate of soda, the surface of
which is leveled, and covered with a circular,
perforated plate of thick cast iron. At the side
of the cylinder is a hopper, covered bya loosely
hinged flap of boiler-plate. This is raised, and
the ladleful of cast iron is poured into the con~
verter, descending upon the top of the perfor.
ated plate, which becomes gradually heated, and
a reaction soon commences in the nitrate, result-
ing in the development of brown nitrous fumes,
followed by blackish-gray and whitish fumes
mixed with steam. In five or six minutes de-
flagration ensues, with a roaring noise, and the
escape of a brilliant yellow flame from the top
of the chimney, this lasting for a minute and a
half, and then subsiding. The converter is then
detached from the chimney, and the contents of
the pot emptied on the iron pavement of the
foundry, consisting of crude steel and of slag.
The steel is in a pasty state, and the slag fluid,
the cast iron plate melted up with the general
mass.

The crude steel thus made is then broken up,
and again heated on a balling furnace; after-
ward rolled or forged into suitable shapes. The
material in this form is called “steel iron,” and
has qualities fully equal, for most purposes, to
the Lowmoor iron. It welds perfectly, is neither
“hot-short ” nor “cold-short,” and forges well
at both a low red and clear yellow heat. To
convert this again into cast steel, the cakes, after
squeezing in the shingling hammer, are broken
up and put into ordinary clay melting pots hold-
ing about 60 lbs. each. To 100 lbs. of the metal
are added 2% or 3 lbs. of spiegeleisen, or its
equivalent of oxide of manganese and charcoal,
and the whole fused and cast into ingots. It is
now cast steel, and from it bars can be produced
in the usual way, fit for any required purpose.

 

STEEL, Siemen’s.-—The following is the
process by which this steel is produced: Good
hematite ore and spathic ore are mixed and
treated with carbonaceous materials, by which
their total or partial reduction into metallic iron
is effected. This metallic iron is then subjected
to very intense heat on the open hearth of a re-
generative gas furnace, and in certain given
quantities, or series of installments, is dropped
into a bath of cast-iron previously prepared in
the furnace. This operation is continued until
the requisite degree of decarbonization is ar-
rived at ; and manganese is added in the orm
of ore or of spiegeleisen. The quantity of mol.
ten metal thus produced in one charge is about
four tons. One ton of steel ingots may be
produced with a ton and a half of cheap small
coal. The ordinary Sheffield process requires
from five to six tons of fuel for one ton of steel.

STEEL, T emperimr. — Giving the proper
degree of hardness to tools is a subject of deep
interest to most of our readers, so that any light
that may be imparted on the subject must be of
more or less importance. For tempering many
kinds of tools, the steel is first hardened by
heating it to a cherry red, and plunging it into
cold water. Afterward the temper is drawn by
moderately heating the steel again. Different
degrees of hardness are required for different
purposes, and the degree of heat for each of
these, with the corresponding color, will be
found in the annexed table:

Very pale straw-color, 430°-—the temper re-
quired for lancets.

A shade of darker yellow, 450°——for razors
and surgical instruments.

Darker straw-yellow, 47o°—for penknives.

_ Still darker yellow, 490°-chisels for cutting
iron. . '

A brown yellow, 500°—axes and plane-irons.

Yellow, slightly tinged with purple, 520°—
table—knives and watch-springs.

STEEL, T a Color Blue.-—-The steel must be
finely polished on its surface, and then exposed
to a uniform degree of heat. Accordingly, there
are three ways of coloring: First, by a flame
producing no soot, as spirit of wine; secondly,
by ahot plate of iron; and thirdly, by wood-
ashes. As a very regular degree of heat is ne-
cessary, wood-ashes for fine work bears the pre~
ference. The work must be covered over with
them, and carefully watched; when the color is
sufficiently heightened, the work is perfect.
This color is occasionally taken off with a very
dilute muriatic acid.

STEEL, T a Remove Bluz'ngfrom.—Immerse
in a pickle composed of equal parts muriatic acid
and elixir vitriol. Rinse in pure water and dry
in tissue paper.

STEEL, Scaling—The scales on steel arti-
cles can be removed by pickling in water with a
little sulphuric acid in it, and when the scale is
loosened, brushing with sand and a stiff brush.

STEEL (Burnt), To Fatwa—Borax, 3 02.;
sal-ammoniac, 8 02.; prussiate of potash, 3 01.;
blue clay, 2 02.; rosin, 1% 1b.; water, I gill;
alcohol, I gill. Put all on a fire, and simmer
till it dries to a owder. The steel is to be
heated, and dippe into this powder, and after-
wards hammered.

STEEL, To T ougfienu—Rosin 2 lbs.; tallow
2 lbs. ; black pitch I 1b.; melt together, and dip
the steel in when hot.

WORKERS IN METALS.

44!

 

STEEL GOODS, To Prat-ewe. — Caout-
charm, I part; turpentine, 16 parts. Dissolve
with a gentle heat, then add boiled oil, 8 parts.
Mix by bringing them to the heat of boiling
water; apply it to the steel with a brush, in the
way of varnish. It may be removed when dry
with turpentine. The oil may be wholly omitted.

STEAAI BOILERS, To war]: wit/tout mak-
ing smoke.~— moke can not be consumed when
once made, but it can be prevented by properly
proportioned fire-grates, with due admission of
air and careful firing, and without the need of
expensive or patent apparatus. The subject may
be clearly explained by a simple Illustration.
Petroline or naphtha and such like compounds
form the most smoky fuel; yet for a few. pence
lamps can be purchased which are familiar to
all, which consume it without the least trace of
smoke. The most simple cottager knows that
his lamp never need smoke unless it is turned
up too high. It smokes in that case because it
is then worked beyond its power. Immediately
it is turned lower, the lamp gives better light at
a less cost and without waste. It is just the
same with boiler and other fire-grates. When
they smoke, it shows they are overworked.
Lessen the quantity of fuel burned in each grate
to the proper proportion, and keep the supply of
fuel regular, and the smoke will cease, and the
greatest economy will be received. _ _

A bright and smokeless flame as well indicates
that a large furnace is doing its proper and high-
est duty, as the bright flame shows the lamp to
be in order. It is well that public bodies should
insist on smoke being prevented as much as pos-
sible; but mischief and dissatisfaction result if
the only way to satisfy complaint is by adopting
some of the special apparatus. The true way
to prevent smoke is to have sufficient bmler—room
to generate the steam required suffiCIently slowly
to allow the combustion to be complete. There
is greater econom in this than in futile efforts
to force too smal a boiler to do the required
work with ruinous waste.

TEMPERING LIQUID.—I. To 6 quarts
soft water put in corrosive sublimate, I 02. ; com-
mon salt, 2 handfuls; when dissolved it is ready
for use. The first gives toughness to the steel,
while the latter gives the hardness. Be careful
with this preparation, as it is a dangerous poison.
—2. Salt, % tea-cup; saltpetre, % oz.; alum,
pulverized, i tea-spoon; soft water, I gallon;
never heat over a cherry red, nor draw any tem-
per.—3. Saltpetre, sal—ammoniac, and alum, of
each 2 oz. ; salt, 1% lbs.; water, 3 gallons, and
draw no temper.—4. Saltpetre and alum, each
2 oz. ; sal-ammonia'c, % oz. ; salt, 1% lbs. ;
soft water, 2 gallons. Heat to a cherry red, and
plunge in, drawing no temper.

TESTING by Mean: 13;" ”it Blair/pipe. ——
Sulphuret of sodium is one of the best blowpipe
tests, if used in the following manner: First,
a bead is made with borax and the substance to
be tested, and this bead, having been made very
fluid within the reduction flame, there is added
to it some dry and pulverized polysulphuret of
sodium, and the head again heated in the reduc-
tion flame. If the substance under investigation
can form a sulpho-acid, there will be formed a
soluble sulpho-salt and a clear bead; but when
no such salt can be formed, with lead, for in-
stance, an o aque bead will be formed. Iron,
lead, bismu , nickel, cobalt, palladium, thalli-

 

um, silver, copper, uranium, etc., fused in a
bead of borax, to which, afterwards, sulphuret
of sodium is added, will yield a black or brown
colored opaque bead; zinc yields a white opaque
bead; cadmium, while yet hot, scarlet red, and
yellow after cooling; manganese, a dirty chest~
nut brown; gold and platinum, a clear, trans-
parent, mahogany brown bead; tin, a clear,
transparent,'yellowish brown bead; chromium,
a green bead; arsenic and antimony, colorless
clear beads; vanadium and iridium, blood red
beads; a slight excess of the sulphuret of sodium
is required, and the head should be heated care-
fully, but steadily, and with a good blast in the
reduction flame.

T [ERS A RGEN T. —-This alloy, generally
supposed to consist of one-third silver and two-
thirds nickel, has been analyzed recently by Dr.
C. Winkler and found to be composed of silver,
27.56 parts; zinc, 9.57; nickel, 3.42; copper,
59.06; total, 99.61.

T [JV/VING—I. Plates or vessels of brass
or copper, boiled with a solution of stannate of
potassa, mixed with turnings of tin, become, in
the course of a few minutes, covered with a firm-
ly-attached layer of pure tin.—2. A similar effect
is produced by boiling the articles with tin filings
and caustic alkali, or cream of tartar. In the above
way chemical vessels made of copper or brass may
be easily and perfectly tinned.

TINiVING by the Moist Way—It is a well
known fact that, when it is desirable to cover
metals, especially brass or copper, with a strong-
ly adhering coating of tin, this is usually effected
by boiling the articles to be thus coated with an
aqueous fluid, to which is added cream of tartar,
crystallized protochloride of tin, and some lumps
of pure metallic tin. The author states that, in-
stead of this mixture, he uses, with very good
success, a solution of one part of protochloride
of tin in ten parts of water, to which he next
adds a solution of two parts of caustic soda in
twenty parts of water; the mixture becomes
turbid, but this does not effect the tinning ope-
ration, which is effected by heating the objects
to be tinned in this fluid, care being taken, at
the same time, to place in the liquid a piece of
perforated block-tin plate, and to stir up the fluid
during the tinning with a rod of zinc.

TIN, To Cry:lallize.—-Sulphuric acid, 402.;
soft water, 2 to 3 02., according to strength of
the acid; salt, I% oz. Mix. Heat the tin hot
over a stove, then with a sponge apply the mix-
ture, then wash off directly with clean water.
Dry the tin, and varnish with demar varnish.

TIN PLA TE, C ryymllz'zea’. —The figures are
more or less beautiful anu diversified, accordin
to the degree of heat, and relative dilution 0
the acid. Place the tin-plate, slightly heated,
over a tub of water, and rub its surface with a
sponge dipped in a liquor composed of four arts
of aquafortis, and two of distilled water, hoiding
one part of common salt or sal ammoniac in
solution. Whenever the crystalline spangles
seem to be thoroughly brought out, the plate
must be immersed in water, washed either with
a feather or a little cotton (taking care not to
rub off the film of tin that forms the featherin ),
forthwith dried with a low heat, and coated With
a lacquer varnish, otherwise it loses its lustre in
the air. If the whole surface is not plunged at
once in cold water, but if it be partially cooled
by sprinkling water on it, the crystallization will

442

be finely variegated with large and small figures.
Similar results will be obtained by blowing cold
air through a pipe on the tinned surface, while
it is just passing from the fused to the solid state.

TIN CANS, Size of Sheet, forfmm I to 100
Gal/om:—

F or I gallon, 7 by 20 inches.
3% “ 10 by 28 “
5. (( 12 by 40 H
6 u 14 by 40 cc
IO “ 20 by 42 “
IS (5 30 by 42 ‘(

25 u 30 by 56 u
40 ‘6 36 by 63 6‘
so u 40 by 70 u
75 “ 40 by 84 “
00 5‘ 40 by 98 (t

I

This includes all the laps, seams, etc., which
will be found sufficiently correct for all practical
purposes.

T 11V, flizu‘z'ate of. (T in Liquo7‘.)—Get at a
tinner’s shop, block tin; put it in a shovel, and
melt it. After it is melted, pour it from the
height of 4 or 5 feet into a pail of clear water.
The object of this is to have the tin in small

articles, so that the acid can dissolve it. Take
it out of the water and dry it; then put it into a
strong glass bottle; pour over it muriatic acid,
12 02.; then slowly add sulphuric acid, 8 oz.
The acid should be added about a table-spoon at
a time, at intervals of 5 or 8 minutes; for if you
add it too rapidly you run the risk of breaking
the bottle by heat. After you have all the acid
in, let the bottle stand until the ebullition sub-
sides; then stop it up with a beeswax or glass
stopper, and set it away; and it will keep good for
a year or more, or will be fit for use in 24 hours.

T IZVWAIBE, T o Maui—Take a vial two-
thirds full of muriatic acid, put into it all the
chippings of sheet zinc it will dissolve, then put
in a crumb of sal ammoniac, and fill up with
water; Wet the place to be mended with this
liquid, put a piece of zinc over the hole, and
apply a spirit lamp or candle below it, which
melts the solder on the tin, and causes the zinc
to adhere.

T INNIN G Cast-Iron.—The iron is first well
rubbed and cleaned in a bath of diluted sulphuric
acid, then dipped in a solution of one part of sal
ammoniac in seven parts of water. The tin used
is alloyed with three ounces of copper for one
hundred pounds of tin. The degree of tempera-
ture at which the melted tin will attach itself to
the cleaned cast-iron objects must be found by
experience. When too hot, it will not adhere
well. The objects to be tinned must be very
smooth, otherwise the tinning will not succeed;
and in order to make the alloy with copper, it is
best to_melt the copper first with a few pounds
of the tin, so that the higher temperature re-
quired to make this alloy may be more easily
reached. When cast-iron objects have to be
covered with a thick coating of tin—for instance,
the inside of iron pots—they are first thoroughly
cleaned, if possible, by grinding or turning, then
heated to the melting point of the tin, then some
of this tin is poured in with sal ammoniac, and
this rubbed on the smooth surface with a piece
of cork, and the excess of tin poured out. When
covered with tin, in order to prevent this from
draining of? from the iron surface, and giving a
coating of irregular thickness, before the pot is
cold and the tin solidified, the outside of the pot

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVEREDAY WANTS.

is plunged in cold water, which must not be
allowed to get on the inside. In this way the
tin coating may be obtained of a more uniform
thickness.

T INNING (Cold) and Soldem'ng.—This is
done by means of an amalgam of tin and mer.
cury. For tinning, it is made with so little
mercury as to be soft and friable. 'l he pieces to
be tinned, even if 0f cast-iron, steel, or wrought-
iron, are first thoroughly cleaned by filing, scrap.
ing, turning, rubbing with emery or sandpaper,
or otherwise, without using any oil or fat, and
then rubbed with a heavy rag, moistened with
muriatic acid. A little of the amalgam is then
rubbed on with the same rag, and if the clean-
ing was complete, the metal is found to be
thoroughly coated., .

Such pieces may then be soldered in the usual
manner, with the common alloy of tin and lead;
but for cold soldering, an alloy of tin and mer-
cury is made, with more mercury than the above,
so as to form a soft, pasty mass, which is placed
between the tinned objects. The latter are
pressed together to remove superfluous metal,
and then set aside to harden.

In order to make a cold soldering joint be-
tween pieces of tin, lead, bismuth, or antimony,
all that is required is pure mercury. Clean and
amalgamate the surfaces to be joined, and place
a few drops of mercury between; press to-
gether; remove the drops of mercury squeezed
out; and put in an airy, warm place, to harden.
The mercury will slowly disappear by eva-
poration, and leave the metal united.

T IZV, Gold Lacquer/”on—Alcohol in a flask
% pt. ; add gum shellac I 02.; turmeric y; 02.;
red-sanders % 02. Set the flask in a warm
place, shake frequently for 12 hours or more,
then strain off the liquor, rinse the bottle and
return it, corking tightly for use.

When this varnish is used, it must be applied
to the work freely and flowing, or, if the work
admits of it, it may be dipped into the varnish,
and laid on the top of the stove to dry, which it
will do very quickly; and they must not be
rubbed or brushed while drying; or the article
may be hot when applied. ‘One or more coats
may be laid on, as the color is required more or
less light or deep. This is applied to lanterns,
etc. If any of it should become thick from eva-
poration, at any time, thin it with alcohol. And
by proper modifications, all the various colors
are obtained. ~

T OMB/1 C, White—When copper is com-
bined with arsenic, by melting them together in
a close crucible, and covering the surface with
common salt to prevent oxidation, a white brittle
alloy is formed.

T QMBAC, Rain-Put into a crucible 5%
lbs. of cop er; when fused add % lb. of zinc;
these metals will combine, forming an alloy of a
reddish color, but possessing more lustre than
copper, and also greater durability.

TYPE ME T AL—Lead 3 parts; antimony
I part; melted together. Small types are
usually made of a harder composition than large
ones. A good stereotype metal is said to be
made of lead 9 parts; antimony 2 do.; bismuth
I do. This alloy expands as it cools, and con-
se uently brings out a fine impression.

ARA/75H or Irma—The following is a
method given y Mr. Weiszkopf of producing
upon iron a. durable black 5 ining varnish:

WORKERS IN METALS.

“Take oil of turpentine, add to it, drop by drop
and while stirring, strong sulphuric acid until a
syrupy precipitate is quite formed, and no more
of it is produced on further addition of a drop. of
acid. The liquid is now repeatedly washed with
water, every time refreshed after a good stirring
until the water does not exhibit any more acid
reaction on being tested with blue litmus paper.
The precipitate is next brought upon a cloth fil-
ter, and, after all the water has run off, the syr-
upy mass is fit for use. This thickish magma
is painted over the iron with a brush; if it hap-
pens to be too stiff, it is previously diluted With
some oil of turpentine. Immediately after the
iron has been so painted, the paint is burnt in
by a gentle heat, and, after cooling, the black
surface is rubbed over with a piece of woolen
stuff dipped in, and moistened with linseed oil.
According to the author, this varnish is not a
simple covering of the surface, but it is chemi-
cally combined with the metal, and does not,
therefore, wear off or peel off, as other paints
and varnishes do, from iron.” .

VARA’ISHfir Iron and Steel—Dissolve 10
parts of clear grains of mastic, 5 parts of cam-
phor, I 5 parts of sandarac, and 5 of elemi, in
a sufficient quantity of 'alcohol, and apply this
varnish without heat. The articles will not only
be preserved from rust, but the varnish will re-
tain its transparency, and the metallic brilliancy
of the articles will not be obscured.

VARNISH (Anti-Rust), for [um and Steel.
—Resin, 120 parts ; sandarac, 180 parts; gum
lac, 60 parts; essence of turpentine, 120 parts;
rectified alcohol, 180 parts. Pound the first three
ingredients, digest them by a regular heat until
they are melted, and add the turpentine very
gradually. After complete solution has taken
place, add the alcohol, and filter through fine
cloth or thick filtering-paper. The varnish should
be kept in well-stoppered bottles.

VARN/SH fbr T coin—Take tallow, 2 02.;
rosin, I 02.; and melt together. Strain while
hot to get rid of specks which are in the rosin;
apply a slight coat on your tools with a brush,
and it will keep off rust for any length of time.

VAR/V1311: Cali—Turmeric, I dram; gam-
boge, I dram; turpentine, 2 pints; shellac, 5 02.;
sandarac, 5 02.; dragon’s blood, 8 drams; thin
mastic varnish, 8 02.; digest with occasional
agitation for I4 days; then set aside to fine, and
pour off the clear.

VARrVISH (Blar/e),fbr Coal Butkttn—AS-

haltum, 1 lb. ; lamp-black, % 1b.; rosin, %
b.; spirits of turpentine, I quart. Dissolve the
asphaltum and rosin in the turpentine; then rub
up the lampblack with linseed oil, only sufficient
to form a paste, and mix with the others. Apply
with a brush.

WA TCHES, To Clean—It is hardly neces-
sary to say that great caution must be observed
in taking the watch down—that is, in separating
its parts. If you are new at the business think
before you act, and then act slowly. Take 03
the hands carefully so as not to bend the slender
pivots upon which they work; this will be the
first step. Second—loosen and lift the movement
from the case. Third—remove the dial and dial
wheels. Fourth—let down the main-spring by
placing your bench key upon the arbor, or
“winding post,” and turning as though you were

_omg to wind the watch until the click rests
ghtly upon the ratchet; then with your screw-

 

443

driver press the point of the click away from the
teeth, and ease down the springs. Fifth—draw
the screws (or pins) and remove the bridges of
the train, or the upper plate, as the case may be.
Sixth—take out the balance. Great care must
be observed in this or you will injure the hair-
s ring. The stud or little square post into which
t e hair-spring is fastened may be removed from
the bridge or plate of most modern watches,
without unkeying the spring, by slipping a thin
instrument, as the edge of a knife blade, under
the corner of it and prying upward. This will
save you a considerable amount of trouble, as you
will not have the hair-spring to adjust when you
reset the balance.

If the watch upon which you propose to work
has an upper plate, as an American or English
lever for instance, loosen the lever before you
have entirely separated the plates, otherwise it
will hang and most likely be broken.

Having the machine now down, brush the
dust from its different parts and subject them to
a careful examination with your eye-glass. As-
sure yourself that the teeth of the wheels and
leaves of the pinions are all perfect and smooth;
that the pivots are all straight, round and highly
polished; that the holes through which they are
to work, are not too large, and have not become
oval in shape; that every jewel is smooth and
perfectly sound; and that none of them are loose
in their settings. See, also, that the escapement
is not too deep or too shallow; that the lever
or cylinder is perfect; that all the wheels have
sufficient play to avoid friction, but not enough
to derange their coming together properly; that
none of them work against the pillar-plate ; that
the balance turns horizontally and does not rub;
that the hair-spring is not bent or wrongly set
so that the coils rub on each other, on the plate
or on the balance; in short, that everything
about the whole movement is just as reason
would teach you it should be. If you find it
otherwise, proceed to repair in accordance with
a carefully weighed judgment, and the processes
given elsewhere, after which clean—if not,
the watch only needs to be cleaned, and there-
fore you may go ahead with your work at once.

Many watchmakers wet the pillar plates and
bridges with saliva, and then dipping the brush
into pulverized chalk or Spanish whiting, rub
vigorously until they appear bright. This is not
a good plan, as it tends to remove the plating
and roughen the parts, and the chalk gets into
the holes and damages them, or sticks around
the edges of the wheel-beds. The best process
is to simply blow your breath upon the plate or
bridge to be cleaned, and then to use your brush
with a little prepared chalk—( See recipe for pre-
paring it.) The wheels and bridges should be
held between the thumb and finger in apiece of
soft paper while undergoing the process; other-
wise the oil from the skin will prevent their
becoming clean. The pinions may be cleaned
by sinking them several times into a piece of
pith, and the holes by turning a nicely shaped
piece of pivot wood into them, first dry and
afterwards oiled a very little with watch oil.
When the holes pass through jewels you must
work gently to avoid breaking them.

The oiling above named is all the watch will
need. A great fault with many watchmakers
lies in their use of too much oil.

Some watchmakers employ what they call the

444-

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

“Chemical Process” to clean and remove dis-
colorations from watch movements. It is as
follows:—

Remove the screws and other steel parts ; then
dampen with a solution of oxalic acid and water.
Let it remain a few moments, after which im-
merse in a solution made of one-fourth pound
cyanuret potassa to one gallon rain water. Let
remain about five minutes, and then rinse well
with clean water, after which you may dry in
sawdust, or with a brush and prepared chalk, as
suits your convenience. This gives the work
an excellent appearance, but I cannot say that it
makes it any better than does the old process.

WA T C17, Care of—Always have a key with
a good pipe or square, and one that fits properly
on the square of your watch, for if it does not fit
good and firm it will be apt to slip, often break-
ing either the chain, the ratchet, or the click.
If the square of your watch is too short, or worn
nearly round, get a watchmaker to repair it, or
make a new one. Be particular to wind your
watch the roper way. English watches, or
those with uzee and chain, usually wind to the
left; and almost all the Swiss ones, or those with
the going barrel, wind to the right. While being
wound, the watch should be held steadily in one
hand, so as to have no circular motion, which
always produces variation in the vibration of the
balance, and sometimes considerable derange-
ment in the escapement. It is better to keep a
watch continually going than to lay it by and
wind it occasionally. The going of the watch
keeps the oil in a limpid state, and the watch
keeps its regulation better. Many will (when
their watch is first wound up, after having lain by
for some time,) say, “I have not wound or used
it for so long.” They do not consider that the
oil will thicken or evaporate, and cannot be in
the same state as if the watch was kept going
regularly. Always wind steadily and slowly,
holding on the key to hold the spring while the
click slips from one tooth to the other, otherwise
there is danger of breaking of chains, clicks,
ratchets, etc. The click, chain or spring is some-
times broken by winding a watch too fast. When
a watch stops in winding it, if in one with a
chain, it is frequently by the going fuzee works
not being correct. In a watch without a chain,
it may also be by some defect in the escape-
ment, or by the stop works on the barrel being
out of order; in either case take it toawatchmaker.

Watches frequently stop by the springs break-
ing, owing to the changes of the atmosphere,
particularly in cold weather. This is one of the
accidents which cannot possibly be avoided by
the best workmen, and in the very best watches.
It is impossible to make a main spring which
will not be influenced by the sudden changes of
the weather. Therefore, if the spring of your
watch breaks, do not blame the watchmaker, as
they often break from the same cause while the
watch is in his care.

Be not afraid that your watch will not go as
well after a new spring has been put in as be-
fore; if a good new spring has been properly
put in, your watch will go as well as ever.

English, or watches with chains, will usually
wind about four and a half (4%) turns to every
twenty-four hours, while those with a going bar-
rel about three and a half (3%) turns; this will
partly serve as a guide to ascertain if your watch
winds right.

 

If the springs or chains break frequently, be
sure there is some defect in the stop work, which
must be corrected by a watchmaker.

Many persons say, “I have over-wound my
watch; ” it may be possible to do it in winding
very fast, and in a hurry. If the stop works of
a large and thick watch, or one with a chain, are
in order, it will take a strong key to resist the
strain that you can give to over-wind it. If not
in order, the chain will break. In a flat watch,
or one with a going barrel, if the stop works are
not in order, or there is onl one. or perhaps
none, and you force it, on will break the spring,
or some of the teeth 0 the wheels, or pinions,
and sometimes both; if, when the spring is bro.
ken, you keep winding, you are likely to break
or injure some other parts of the works.

Be particular never to trifle with a good watch,
or use it as a toy, but as a piece of delicate and
complicated mechanism, requiring great care;
by so doing, you may preserve your watch, and
avoid a great deal of expense for repairs.

Before winding or setting your watch, it is
advisable to see that the key and the inside of
the pipe contains no dirt or dust that may get
on the winding or setting square, and from
thence to the wheels or escapement.

When a watch is hung up, it should be per-
fectly at rest. If hung on a round hook without
further support, the motion of the balance will
generate a pendulous motion of the watch, and
will cause much variation in the time. Power-
ful watches should never be laid horizontally,
unless placed on a soft substance; if placed on a
smooth flat surface, from the convexity of the
glass or case, the watch only rests on a point,
and the vibration of the balance alone is suffi-
cient to produce motion in the watch.

Should a watch stop, see if the hands rub on
the dial, and are free of each other; if they are
caught together, you may free them yourself by
taking the point of a small knife blade, and dis-
engaging them; your watch, if there is nothing
more the matter with it, will then start by giv-
ing it a slight shake.

Frequently, after a watch has had a new glass
put in, it will stop; that is through the glass
being too flat, and touching either on the center
pinion, or by pressing on the hands ; in that
case, blame the person who put the glass in, and
let him put another in; if there is not, as in very
flat watches, room enough for the hands to work
free of each other, it will often be advisable to
have the cover of the case raised a little ; in thin
watches, the case may have been pressed flat in
the center by wearing.

If anything is the matter with your watch,
which you cannot discover immediately, do not
try to put it in order yourself, and meddle with
the works, but show it at once to a good watch-
maker. I have had watches to repair in which
the wearer thought he could detect the defect
himself; in opening it, he would see the s iral
spring, and think that it was some hair w ich
had no business there, and in trying to remove
it, would spoil or break it.

Many watches are injured by the wearers
thinking that the can make them go by open~
ing, winding, an shaking them.

Watches should be opened as little as possible,
merely to wind, set, or regulate them.
continually opening them, particularly in the in-
side cap, opportunity is offered to minute part-

WORKERS IN [ME TALS.

icles of dirt from the case, or otherwise, to in-
trude into the works.

Particular Care should be taken to keep the
works of a watch clean; even though perfectly
free from dust, they ought to be taken to pieces
and cleaned when the oil has become dry, as,
without this precaution, the best watches would
be spoiled. It is good watches that will continue
to go, until friction and wear prevent their gomg
any longer; they are the most liable to be ne-
glected.

Watches, under ordinarycircumstances, should
be cleaned every second or third ear at farthest.
Those that are small and flat, or ave complicat-
ed works, require cleanin more frequently.
Neglect in this particular is the reason why
many imported watches are injured by not being
attended to in time, and having the oil changed.
They may_ have been made some time previous
to being sent out; then the journey here, then
from the importers to the dealers, where they
may lay for a long time before being sold; so
that years may possibl elapse before the wearer
has it in his pocket. herefore, is it to be ex-

ected that the watch can perform correctly?
lf it does, all the time you keep it going, you
are only causing it more injury.

N 0 good watchmaker will allow a watch to go
too long without changing the oil.

WA T Cf], Care of (Another Code of Direc-
tion: .

I. )Do not make a toy of it for yourself or the
children. Never open it except for necessary
purposes.

2. It should be regulated to about mean tem-
perature, and always kept as near the same tem-
perature as possible.

3. It should not be allowed to stop. Better
that it be kept running all the time.

4. Keep it in as uniform a position as pos-
sible. If in the pocket, better that the pendant
ring he upright.

5. Out of the pocket, if it hangs on the wall,
let it be upon some soft surface. Never allow
it to lie on bare marble or other hard surface.
If it lie on any surface, let it be.with face up and
pendant ring turned under, so as to keep the
upger part most elevated.

. Let your key fit exactly, and be kept per-
fectly clean. By the former you' may save break-
ing chains, mainsprings, ratchets, clicks, &c. ;
by the latter, prevent introducing much dust.

7. Wind, if possible, at the same hour each

5. While winding, hold your watch steadily
in your left hand. Turn only your key, and that
firmly, evenly, avoiding all quick motions or
jerks.

9. Set your watch with a key; never turn the
hands by any other way. You may turn the
hands either way without danger, if they do not
move very hard.

to. The hand of a pocket-chronometer or du-
plex watch should never be set backwards; in
other watches this is a matter of no consequence
whatever.

u. The glass should never be 0 ened in
watches that set and regulate at the bac i.

12. On regulating a watch, should it be going
too fast, move the regulator a trifle toward the
“slow”, and if going slow, to the reverse; you
cannot move the regulator too gently at a time,
and the only inconvenience that can arise is,

 

445

that you may have to perform that duty more
than once.

13. Take notice that your watch, even if a
good one, will sometimes be guilty of “irregu-
larities” in consequence of change of tempera-
ture, from the effects of which none but a chro-
nometer is exempt; also from the jerks and jars
of travel.

14. If you find any difficulty which you do
not understand, go at once to a good watch-
maker.
l/VA TCH WHEELS, To Put Teeth into.—
Most watchmakers solder or dovetail their teeth
in, but there is a new mode which I consider
far better, and I know it is easier: Make a hole
through the plate of the wheel immediately be-
low the point from which the tooth has been
broken. Let its diameter be a little greater than
the width of a tooth. Next, with our tooth-
saw cut down where the tooth shou d stand till
you come into the hole. You then dress out
with a head upon it, a piece of brass wire, till it
fits nicely into the cut of the saw, with its head
in the hole. With a fine graver you then cut a
crease into the wheel-plate above and below, on
either side of the newly-fitted wire; after which,
with your hammer, you cautiously spread the
face of the wire until it fills the creases, and is
securely clinched or riveted into the wheel. This
makes a strong job, and one that dresses up to
look as well as any other.

WA TCH MOVEMENTS, To Frost—Sink
that part of the article to be frosted for a short
time in a compound of nitric acid, muriatic acid
and table salt—one ounce of each. On removing
from the acid, place it in a shallow vessel con-
taining enough sour beer to merely cover it, then
with a fine scratch brush scour thoroughly, let-
ting it remain under the beer during the opera-
tion. Next wash off, first in pure water and
then in alcohol. Gild or silver in accordance
with any recipe in the chapter on plating.

WELDING [VET/41.5, P/zi/orof/zy (31‘: —
When two pieces of metal of any kind are to be
united by welding, the surfaces of conjunction
must be equally heated, and both surfaces must
be brought to such a temperature that the parti«
cles will form a perfect continuity between the
pieces united. This embraces the entire theory
of welding, soldering, or brazing metallic sub-
stances of any kind. A poor weld, or an imper-
fect piece of brazing or soldering may always be
attributed to the lack of skill on the part of the
workman. In addition, however, to the equal
and adequate heating of the surfaces to be united,
every particle of coal-dust, cinders, or scales of
oxide must be removed, so as to present two
perfectly clean surfaces at the very moment
when the union is to be effected. Furthermore,
the piece of metal that would fuse at the lower
temperature must be the guide, when bringing
the surfaces of conjunction up to the proper heat.
If, for example, two pieces of wrought-iron are
to be welded, the part that will melt at the lower
temperature must be brought just to a welding
heat, and the surface of the other piece must be
heated quite as hot, or a trifle hotter than the
first piece. Then, if the surfaces be clean when
the parts are brought together, the union will
be satisfactorily complete. The degree of heat
aimed at must be—not to produce a fluid—but
simply to bring the metal into a condition be-
tween fluidity and plasticity.

446

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

When a soldering-iron, sufficiently hot to melt
solder readily, is applied to a piece of solder on
a sheet of clean tin, as the tin is so thin, the
surface will be heated almost instantly as hot as
the melted or half-fluid solder, and the resulting
union will be perfect. But let the same solder-
ing-iron and some of the same solder be em-
ployed in attempting to make solder adhere to a
thick piece of lead pipe, and it will be found that
it will not stick until the lead has been heated as
hot as the solder. It is no difficult task to make
solder adhere to a steel knife-blade, by simply
cleaning the surface and applying a black-hot
iron to a piece of solder laid on the clean metal,
provided a little resin be sprinkled over the steel
to prevent oxidation. But it is not possible to
make solder stick to a thick piece of steel until
the solderingiron has been applied to the sur-
face a sufficient length of time to heat the entire
bar to a proper temperature. Solder will not
adhere to a cold surface; neither can one piece
of iron be welded to another that has not been
brought up to such a degree of temperature that
the particles of metal at the surface will unite.

WELDI/VG by Pz'ermre.—-It is claimed that
recent experiments by French machinists have
shown that continued, steady hydraulic pressure
in welding, causes complete union of two masses
of iron, while the junction is only superficial if
produced by the hammer. Among other experi-
ments, two iron bars, one and a half inches in
diameter, were heated to the welding point and
brought under the hydraulic press. The weld-
ing was effected with extraordinary quickness,
the fibres of the iron being thoroughly interca-
lated with each other, and the joined portion of
the bars was quite as strong as anywhere else,
a microscopic section of the joint showing a per-
fectly homogeneous texture.

VVELDIZVG (A ijZU) Parana—The follow-
ing composition, recently patented in Belgium,
is said to be very useful for welding iron and
steel together. It consists of one thousand parts
of iron filings, five hundred parts of borax, fift
parts of balsam of copaiva or other resinous oil):
with seventy-five parts of sal-ammoniac. Those
ingredients are well mixed together, heated and
pulverized. The process of welding is much the
same as usual. The surfaces to be united are
powdered with the composition, and then brought
to a cherry-red heat, at which the powder melts,
when the portions to be welded are taken from
the fire and joined. If the pieces to be welded
are too large to be both introduced at the same
time into the forge, one can be first heated with
the welding powder to a cherry-red heat, and
the other afterwards to a white heat, after which
the welding may be effected. Another composi-
_ tion for the same object consists of fifteen parts
of borax, two parts of sal-ammoniac and two
parts of cyanide of potassium. These constitu-
ents are dissolved in water, and the water itself
afterwards evaporated at a low temperature.

WELD/[VG CASTSTEEL wit/mu! Borax.
—Copperas 2 oz.; saltpetre 1 oz.; common salt
6 02.; black oxide of manganese I oz.; prussiate
of potash I 02.; all pulverized and mixed with
nice welding sand 3 lbs.; and use it the same as
you would sand.

WELD/[VG a 5122111116127? of I ran upon a large
(ma—It is often desirable to weld a bit ofiron
upon a large bar, when the large piece must be
heated equally hot as the small one. To save

 

this: Take borax 1 1b.; red oxide of iron I to 2

oz.; melt them together in a crucible; and when

cold, pulverize it and keep the powder dry for

use. hen you want to perform the operation,

just bring the large piece to a white heat, having

a good welding heat u on the small slip; take

the large one from the re, and sprinkle some of
the powder upon the place, and bring the other

upon it, applying the hammer smartly, and the

weld will be as good as could be made with the!
greater heat without the powder.

WELDING C 0PPER.—In order to effect
the welding of copper, it is necessary to remove
the thin film of oxide of copper, formed in heat~
ing, from the surfaces which are intended to be
united. This is done in a way similar to that
employed in welding iron, by putting on a sub-
stance which is capable of dissolving the oxide
of copper, and forming a thin fluid slag with it,
the whole of which is squeezed out from be-
tween the two surfaces to be welded by the blows
of the hammer or other pressure. The selection
of the proper welding material was facilitated by
the knowledge, acquired from mineralogy, that
libethenite and phosphorocalcite, two phosphates
of copper, smelt easily before the blow-pipe.
It was to be inferred from this, that any salt
which contained free phosphoric acid, or which
would lose the same at high temperature, would
be a proper medium for welding copper.

Mr. P11. Rust made experiments several years
ago for the purpose of determining 'the most
effective and economical method of turning this
knowledge to account. He employed first
microcosmic salt, (phosphate of soda and ammo-
nia,) which is so commonly used in blow-pipe
experiments. The welding succeeded at once,
and was very perfect. But as this salt has rather
a high price, he substituted subsequently a
mixture of 358 parts of phosphate of soda and
124 parts of boracic acid, which disengages,
when heated, also phosphoric acid. The weld-
ing succeeded also; but in order to render the
formed slag sufficiently fluid, asomewhat higher
heat had to be given than in the first case.

The powder is put on to the surfaces to be
united after the copper has been brought to a
dull red heat; the metal is then heated a little
more until a cherry-red is reached, and then at
once brought under the hammer. As copper
becomes very soft in the heat required for wel-
ding, the blows must be given very lightly and
the ends to be welded must be previously con-
siderably knocked up, in order not to distort the
shape of the article beyond mending. A wooden
hammer is, for this reason, preferable to an
iron one.

Mr. Rust says, that it is especially important
to guard against any pieces of coal, even the
smallest s ark, coming in contact with the liquid
slag enve oping the ends to be welded. Ifthis
should happen, the phosphate of copper in the
welding medium would at once he reduced to
phosphide of copper, which would at once en-
velop the ends as a steel-gray film, and prevent
the welding effectually. Only aftera long treat-
ment in an oxidizing flame, and repeated use of
the welding medium, the union of the ends can
be effected. For this reason it is preferable to
use a gas-flame for the heating of the copper, if
the pieces are not too large.

WIRE (3f SOLDER.—Take a ladle and bore
a few holes in the bottom in a line with one

MISCELLANEOUS.

another, say six holes, about the size you want
your wire. * When you get ready to pour, have
a strip of smooth iron or steel (a saw blade be-
ing very good), have your pierced ladle in your
left hand, having previously heated it in the
melted metal; then dip u some metal with an
ordinary ladle with your right hand, and pour it
through the pierced ladle, at the same time mov-
ing the two along the strip of iron, and a few
inches above it. After you get the hang of it
you can make very pretty wire, smaller or larger
as you move fast or slow.

447

WROUGHT- [ROM To Care- Harden.—
To case-harden wrought-iron, take the prussiate
of potash, finely pulverized, and roll the article
in it, if its shape admits of it, if not, sprinkle
the powder upon it freely, while the iron is hot.

This is applicable to iron axletrees, by heating
the axletree and rolling the bottom of it in the
powder, spread out for that purpose, turning it
up quickly and pouring cold water upon it, get-
ting it into the tub of cold water as quick as
possible. They will wear for years, without
showing wear.

MISCELLANEOUS.

AGUE, T a Awful—The first suggestion, of
course, is to leave those districts where this
troublesome complaint prevails. Sometimes,
however, one’s rqidence cannot well be changed.
To persons so circumstanced, there are preven-
tions by the use of which the majority might
generally escape it. They are as follows :—
1. Avoid exposing themselves to the malarial
air after sunset and before sunrise. 2. Occupy
rooms at night on the sunny side of the house
and up stairs. 3. Build a fire in the house as
soon as the dew begins to fall. The heat of the
fire will do much to kill the malaria. 4. Keep
the skin healthy and active by a thorough bath
every day on rising, in a warm room, with suffi-
cient friction to produce a healthy reaction.
5. Keep the bowels open by a proper diet. In
nine cases out of ten t e cause of ague would be
easily overcome if the depurating organs were
not overtaxed and morbid matters allowed to ac—
cumulate in the system to oppress it.

ALABASTER, To [Iam’m and Polar/z.—
I. Take a strong solution of alum, strain it, and
put it into a wooden trough sufficiently large to
contain the figure, which must be suspended in
it by means ofa thread of silk; let it rest until
a sufficient quantity of the salt is crystallized on
the cast, then withdraw it, and polish it with a
clean cloth .and water.——2. Take white wax;
melt it in a convenient vessel, and dip the cast or
figure into it; withdraw and repeat the opera-
tion of dipping until the liquid wax rests upon
the surface of the cast; then let it cool and dry,
when it must be polished with a clean brush.

ALASKA ICEBERGS.——I. Alaska ice-
bergs can be produced by making a saturated
solution of plumbum nitras, then adding small,
nice, white, and long pieces of ammonium chlo-
ride, and exposing undisturbed to the direct light
of the sun for several days. Upon examination
you will find formed beautifully white, opaque,
needle-shaped crystals of chloride of lead repre-
senting the Alaska icebergs—2. Over a con-
centrated solution of nitrate of lead, contained
in a globe, is poured a solution of chloride of
ammonium: this must be done carefully, so that
the two fluids do not mix, when the" formation
of the Alaska iceberg will commence.

ANILINE COLORS, To make Salad]! in
Waler.-The aniline colors insoluble in water
may, according to Dr. Zinsman, who publishes

 

the process, be made to dissolve in that men-
struum in the following way: A. solution of ge-
latine in acetic acid of about the consistence of
syrup is first made, and the aniline color in fine
powder is gradually added, stirring all the time
so as to make a homogeneous paste. The mix-
ture is then to be heated over a water bath to
the temperature of boiling water, and kept at
that heat for some time. Colors in this state, if
a very clear gelatine is employed, will be appli-
cable to many decorative purposes. Bookbind-
ers, paper-stainers, and printers will find them
useful. They may also, we read, he used to
color confectionery and soaps. Before they are
used for confectionery, however, it will be well
to make sure that no arsenic is present.

A TMOSPHERE, To Test the purity (3f.—
1. A simple method of ascertaining the presence
of impurity (carbonic acid) in the atmosphere,
is to nearly fill a glass tumbler with limewater,
and to place it in any convenient position, as on
the mantel-piece of a room. The rapidity with
which a pellicle forms on its surface, or the water
becomes cloudy, corresponds to the amount of
the carbonic acid present in the atmosphere that
surrounds it.—2. A little moist carbonate of lead
put on a plate or saucer, and exposed in the
same way, will turn black, should any sulphu-
reted hydrogen be contained in the air. This
is a very delicate test for that destructive gas.

AlVNINGS, Mildew Praofl—As mildew is
a parasitic plant, a fungus living at the expense
of other organic matter, its prevention requires
something destructive to vegetable life, and a
kind of varnish to close the pores of the texture
of the linen awning, to protect it against the
chemical influences of the atmosphere and the
penetration of the fine root filaments of the
fungus, which has great vitality. Different varn-
ishes will answer the purpose; we should prefer
first to moisten the linen with a solution of ar-
seniate of potash, which has the special property
of preventing organic changes. After drying,
put on a benzine varnish ; perhaps one made of
India rubber and benzole would be best. Car-
bolic acid is said to have the same effect, when
the cloth is steeped in it; but it may discolor
the canvas, and, moreover, it may be washed
out by re eated rains.

AXL -GREASE.—-I. Water, I gal. , soda,
% 1b., palm oil, 10 lbs.; mix by heat, and stir

448

DICTIONARY OF EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

till nearly cold.——2. Water, rape oil, of each I
gal., soda, % 1b.. palm oil, % 1b.-—3. Water, I
gal. ; tallow, 3 lbs. ; palm oil, 6 lbs. ; soda, %
pound. Heat to 210° Fah., and stir until cool.
—4. Tallow, 8 lbs., palm oil, 10 lbs., plumbago,
1 1b., make a good lubricator for wagon axles.

BALLOONS (Toy), Ga: fir. — Procure a
glass jar with a tight fitting cover with a hole in
the center. Fill two-thirds full of strips of good
new zinc; put in enough water to cover this;
then pour in enough sulphuric acid to make the
water boil. Fasten the balloon tightly around
the top of the jar so the gas cannot escape while
generating.

BALLOON VARNISIL—Melt India rubber
in small pieces, with its weight of boiled linseed
oil, and thin it with oil of turpentine.

BAROME TER, Home Made. — I. Take a
thin glass tube, 12 inches long and 34-inch in
diameter, and fill three-fourths of it with two
drachms of camphor, a half drachm of pure salt-
petre, a half drachm of inuriate of ammonia and
two ounces of proof spirits. The tube may
be tied over with bladder if required. As
a sign of fine weather, the sediment of white
flakes will settle near to the bottom of the
tube, while the liquid will be quite transparent
above. As a sign of rain, the matter will rise
to the surface of the solution. At the approach
of a storm, the matter will float on the surface of
the solution in the form of white flakes, and the
fluid will appear in astate of fermentation. Dur-
ing frort, the solution will present a starry
appearance, and during summer or [wt wrat/zer
the matter will fall to the bottom as a solid sub-
stance—2. Take a common phial, and cutoff
the rim and part of the neck, by means of apiece
of cord passed round it, and inOved rapidly to
and fro, in a sawing direction; the one end being
held in the left hand and the other fastened to
any convenient object, while the right hand holds
and moves the phial; when heated dip it sudden-
ly into cold water, and the part will crack off; or
separate it with a file. Then nearly fill the
phial with clean water, place your finger on the
mouth and invert it; withdraw your finger and
suspend it in this position with a piece of twine.
In dry weather the under surface of the water
will be level with the neck of the bottle, or even
concave; in (lamp weather, on the contrary, a
’drop will appear at the mouth and continue
until it falls, and is then followed by another in
the same way.—3. Take a common glass pickle
bottle, wide mouthed, fill it within three inches
of the top with water; then take a Florence oil
flask, removing the straw covering and cleansing
the flask thoroughly; plunge the neck of the
flask into the other bottle as far as it will go,
and the barometer is complete. In fine weather
the water will rise into the neck of the flask,
evenhigher than the mouth of the bottle. Before
a heavy gale of wind the water has been seen to
leave the flask altogether, at least eight hours
before the gale came to its height.

BAROjl/E TER,Am'matrd.—1. Take an eight
ounce hial, and put in it three gills of water,
and p ace in it a healthy leech, changing the
water in summer onceaweek, and in winter once
in a fortnight, and it will mostaccurately prognos-
ticate the weather. If the weather is to be fine,
the leech lies motionless at the bottom of the
glass and coiled together in a spiral form; if rain
may be expected, it will creep up to the top of its

 

lodgings and remain there till the weather is set-
tled; if we are to have wind, it will move through
its habitation with amazing swiftness, and seldom
goes to rest till it begins to blow hard; if a re-
markable storm of thunder and rain is to succeed,
it will lodge for some days before almost contin-
ually out of the water, and discover great uneasi-
ness in violent throes and convulsive-like motions;
in frost as in clear summer-like weather it lies
constantly at the bottom; and in snow as in rainy
weather it pitches its dwelling in the very mouth
of the phial. The top ‘should be covered over
with a piece of muslin.—2. There is a frog in
Wisconsin, who may fairly take his place among
the frogs of history. He lives in aglass jar filled
with water. A diminutive ladder runs from the
bottom of the vessel to the top, and just above
the water-line is a platform, on which his frog-
ship is to be seen in fine weather sitting per-
fectly motionless as long as the dry season lasts.
On the slightest indication of achange in the at-
mosphere he quits his perch and takes to the
water, returning only at long intervals to feed
upon the flies which are thrown to him. As
he detects the approach of rain long before the
most experienced human obsqver, his first dive
is always the signal for taking in the clothes from
the lines, and for getting out the umbrellas and
golocshoes.

BASE BALL, T o maker-A good base ball
may be made by cutting an old boot or an old
gum (rubber) shoe into strips and wrap them
tightly around each other till it is about the size
of a walnut. Then wrap with yarn or any kind
of string very tightly, until it is the size you
want it; then sew the loose end to the ball. Now

‘lay the ball down on a piece of leather and gath-

er up the sides and press them close to the ball
and with a sharp knife trim off the corners, (be
sure to have them fit nicely.) Now sew up all
the sides except one; then slip in the ball, and
sew up with a double thread. Now put some
oil on the seams and hammer them smooth; for
if you are not careful in catching a ball with
rough seams, it will sometimes take the skin
from the ends of the fingers.

BASKET S, T o Cijlsz‘allize.—Take a small
basket, about the size of your hand, of iron wire
or split willow ; take some lamp cotton, untwist
it, and wind it round every portion of the bas-
ket; then mix alum in the proportion of one
pound to a. quart of water, and boil till the alum
is dissolved; pour the solution into a deep an,
and in the liquor suspend the basket witliout
allowing any part to touch the an, or to be ex-
posed above the surface; let t e whole remain
properly at rest for twenty-four hours, when, if
you take out the basket, the alum will be found
prettily crystallized over all parts of the cottoned
frame. After this first experiment, it will be
easy to extend the crystallizing process to larger
objects, and to adorn flowers w1th alum crystals
of various colors.

BA THING, Sew—There are circumstances
necessarily connected with a visit to the sea-side,
which greatly tend to increase its beneficial ef-
fects. In almost all instances the used up man
of business or of pleasure, the man suffering
from general debility, occasioned by his menta
or physical powers having been overtaxed, or
from continued residence in close, unhealthy
towns, and persons suffering from general lan-
guor and lassitude, or undergoing difficult and

MISCEZLAJVEO US.

tedious convalescence from the efi'ects of severe
illness or accident, are benefited. To these peo-
ple it is not the sea air alone, nor yet change. of
air; but it is change of scene and habit, wrth
freedom from the anxieties and cares of study or
business, the giddy rounds of pleasure, the mo-
noton of every day life, or of the sick room and
con escent chamber, which produce such ex-
traordinary beneficial effects—a seemingly per-
fect renovation of wasted energies and renewal
of the powers of life—effects not to be obtained
by means of any purely medical treatment.

With bathing in the open sea, there is to be
considered, first, the shock experienced on en-
tering water at its natural temperature, when
shivering, convulsive respiration and oppressxon
of the chest are always experienced, although
but for a moment, and pass away on immersion
and free action in the water; secondly, the stim-
ulating eflects of the saline substances; thirdly,
the mechanical action and pressure of the large
moving mass of water and the motion of the
waves acting as douches, which, combined, are
not in all cases well borne by delicate persons
and children. The direct effect of cold bathing
is sedative and benumbing, and causing the
blood to reccde from the surface of the body into
the grand arterial trunks, congesting the brain
and internal organs, depressing the vital powers,
and as it were bringing on death. It is this di-
rect effect we have to guard against, and this we
can only do by encouraging sufficient and healthy
reaction, indicated by the genial glow, feeling of
general vioor, and increased appearance of blood
to the surface of the bod , sometimes wearing
the as ect of a healthy 5 in, but at others ex-
hibited) by small red patches like measles, dif-
fused redness as in scarlatina, or spots like flea
bites. It is, therefore, how to avoid the direct
evil effect, and how to encourage sufficient and
healthy reaction, that we have to consider.

First, the duration of a cold bath should not
be too prolonged, and it is to be laid down as an
unexceptional rule, that a certain degree of vigor
and power of reaction are essential in all by
whom cold sea bathing is to be attempted. Thus
it is not advisable that old people, the weak and
delicate, including children, or such as are dis-
posed to internal congestion or hemorrhage,
should take a cold sea bath. General lassitude,
with tendency to sleep, headache, or toothache,
sensitiveness of the breast, increase of appetite,
andconstipation, are frequent results of a cold bath
at the commencement of a course of sea bathing.

For bathing, therefore, in the open sea, it is
desirable to prepare the delicate and unaccus-
tomed by giving them a few preliminary tepid
baths, which produce a gently stimulating action
on the skin, acting at the same time as a sedative
to the nervous system; and by gradually lower-
ing the temperature of these baths, the patient
becomes strengthened to undergo the shock of a
cold bath without risk, the severity of which
very rapidly becomes diminished by the force of
habit in bathing. The latter part of the month of
Julyis the most suitable time to commence a course
of cold sea bathing, the delicate and invalided
having been previously inured by tepid baths.

In the morning, before ten o’clock, the tem-
perature of the sea is at its lowest, and it is,
therefore, at this time unsuited to the uninured
and delicate, while it is most bracing and invig-
orating to the strong, and to such as can aid re-

 

449

action of‘the circulation by the exercise of swim-
ming. The sea reaches its maximum tempera.
ture at twelve o’clock, and continues the same
until five; it is, therefore, during this time the
delicate should bathe, the earlier the better, but in
this, of course, persons must be guidedby the tide.

BEDROOMS, Ventilation of—The impor-
tance of ventilating bedrooms is a fact in which
everybody is vitally interested, and which few
properly appreciate. If two men are to occupy
a bedroom during a night, let them step upon
weighing scales as they retire, and then again in
the morning, and they will find that their actual
weight is at least a pound less in the morning.
Frequently there will be a loss of two or more
pounds, and the average loss throughout the
year will be more than one pound; that is,
during the night there is aloss of a pound of
matter, which has gone off from their bodies,
partly from the lungs, and partly through the
pores of the skin. The escaped material is
carbonic acid and decayed animal matter, or
poisonous exhalations.

BELTS, To Oz'l.-—A good way to oil belts
is to pour the oil on to the outside of the belt as
it runs, and let the pulleys work it in. It may
be put on freely if the belt be running idle, but
if at work it will take but a small quantity at a.
time without slipping. Keep the leather just
0in enough to make it pliable.

BLA CATO/41305, A rtgficial.—-Blackboards
or large writing slates are conveniences or ne—
cessities in nearly all schools. A recipe for
preparing these, or a substitute, cheaply, is of
general interest, and we are indebted for the
following description to a gentleman of consider-
able experience. He says: I first have the place
of the wall intended to be covered, surrounded
by a narrow wooden molding, which may be
covered by paint. Japan or varnish is necessary
in the paint, as with benzine alone the lampblack
rubs off; but as varnish makes the board too
smooth to write on, I mix a little fine emery in
it, to make it slightly gritty, like a slate; too
much emery or a quality of too coarse a grade
makes the removal of the chalk marks difficult.
For the last purpose I take sheepskin with the
wool on, nailed on a small piece of board and
always used dry; it is much better than anything
else. From time to time, however, the whole
blackboard is cleaned with a wet sponge. The
best substance for fixing the common lampblack.
and emery, is shellac dissolved in alcohol; the
(Iiuantities are regulated by the circumstances.

n warm weather it requires more alcohol. Too~
much shellac makes the solution too thick; too:
little causes it to come off. It is to be put on:
with a flat brush as rapidly as possible, as it.
dries at once. The blackboard may be used in.
less than half an hour.

BLA CKBOARD PAINJT—To make one
gallon of paint, take ten ounces pulverized
pumice-stone, six ounces pulverized rotten-stone,
three-quarters of a pound lampblack, and mix
them with alcohol enough to make a thick paste.
Grind the mixture very thoroughly in a paint-
mill; then dissolve about fourteen ounces of'
shellac in the remainder of the gallon of alcohol.
Now stir the whole together, and the paint is
ready for use. The shellac prevents the paint
from rubbing off. If the shellac is of poor‘
quality, hit will require a little more. When
using, stir often to prevent the pumice-stone from

2

45°

DICTIONARY OF EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

settling. In putting on a second coat, be care-
ful not to rub off the first. One gallon will
furnish two coats for sixty or seventy square
yards of black-board, on walls not previously
painted.

The surface of a plaster wall that is to be

ainted for the first time, may be somewhat
improved by first putting on a coat of strong
glue-sizing, prepared by boiling one pound of

lue in a gallon of rain water. Stir in three or
our ounces of lam black. Put on hot.

BLACK HEALING SALVE. —— Take of
olive oil, 3 quarts; common resin, 3 oz.; bees-
wax, 3 oz. Melt these articles together, and
raise the oil almost to boiling heat; then gradu-
ally add of pulverized red lead two and a half
pounds, if in the summer; if in winter, one-
quarter of a pound less. In a short time after
the lead is taken up by the oil, and the mixture
becomes brown ora shining black; remove from
the fire, and when nearly cold add of pulverized
camphor half an ounce. -

BLA Cli’ LUSTRE COLOR. -— Dr. Kiel-
meyer gives a recipe which is adapted for either
paper, cloth, or porous wood. He states that it
stands well, is very supple, and has no tendency
to get sticky. To prepare it he boils together
8 pounds of glue, previously dissolved in 16 lbs.
of water; I )ound potato starch, dissolved in
5% pounds 0 water; 5% pounds of campeachy,
extract of 6° Baume’; I pound 2 ounces of green
vitriol, and 8% lbs. of brown glycerine. When
thoroughly mixed, he removes the pet from the
fire, and continues to stir until the liquid is cold.
If the paint be desired thicker or thinner, the
amount of starch and glue must be varied as
well as the other materials, or the lustre will
suffer.

BLADDERS, T o Prrpare. —- Soak them for
twenty—four hours in water, to which a little
chloride of lime or potass has been added, then
remove the extraneous membranes, wash them
well in clean water and dry them.

BOA/YES, To W/zz'tm.—Put ahandful of bran
and quick-lime together, in a new pipkin, with a
sufficient quantity of water, and boil it. In this

ut the bones, and boil them also till perfectly
fi‘eed from greasy particles.

BOZVES, To Dye any Colon—Boil the bones
first for a good while; then in a lye of quick-
]ime mixed with chamber-lye, put either verdi-

ris, or red or blue chalk, or any other ingredient

t to procure the color you want to give to the
bones. Lay the bones in the liquor, and boil
them, they will be perfectly dyed.

If 00111111.»! KING.—— 7 Elle-Page. —The title-
page, that heralds all the inner pages of a book,
should be printed in a style of elegance severe
and unadorned; no fancy type, except a line of
Scribe Text or Old English—no Italics, unless
perchance a single line motto in Pearl caps,—
no bold-face type, nor Antique, nor Gothic,—
but plain, clear, light-faced letters. All experi-
enced printers incline to this simple style. Avoid
having two lines of equal length to follow or
come in contact with each other. Catch-words
should be set on a very reduced scale, and pro-
portioned according to strength of the preceding
and succeeding lines, for bold catch-words de-
tract from' the general effect of the title. Authors
should endeavor to make their title-pages as
concise as possible, for a crowded title can never
be displayed with elegance or taste—Preface.—

 

Formerly, the preface was uniformly set in ItaL
ic; at. present Roman is used, one size larger or
smaller than the body of the work. If the work
has been printed with folios only, then the pre-
face should be pa ed in like manner.-— Contents.
—The contents ollow the preface or introduc-
tion, and may be set either in Roman or Italic,
generally two sizes smaller than the body of the
work. The first line of each summary full, ,and
the rest indented an em quadrat, with the refer-
ring figures justified at the ends of the respective
lines.-—Dcdz'mtion. —The dedication generally
follows the title, and seldom exceeds one page.
It should be set in capitals and small capitals,
neatly displayed. The name of the person to
whom the work is dedicated should always be
in capitals, and the terms, Your very humble
and obedient, etc., should be in smaller type,
and the signature or name of the author in capi-
tals of a smaller size than that in which the name
of the personage is printed to whom the book is
dedicated. —Ina’r’x. — The index is generally
placed at the end of the volume, and setin typez
sizes less than that of the work. It is always
begun on an uneven page. In setting an index,
the subject line should not be indented; but, if
the article make more than one line, all but the
first should be indented an em.—Errata.—-The
errata are put immediately before the body of
the work, or at the end of it. They should consist
only of such corrections as are z'ndz'xpmrtzbly
mam-my, without noticing any defects in the
punctuation, unless where the sense is perverted.

BOOIX’S (St/tool), To Prawn/t 171: Binding
q/I—The best way to reserve the binding of
school books is to take t e book and 0 )en it out
flat, and mark the size exactly on the inner side
of a piece of muslin, then cut it out; and then
cut two pieces for the inner sides of the book a
little less than the width; bind all three pieces
separately all round with ribbon. Then sew the
pieces together on three sides at each end of the
long piece, leaving a s ace in the centre; turn
the covers of the book ack, and slip them into
the muslin cover ; and, if cut out well, it will fit
as well as the original binding. Books so cov-
ered can be used for some years, and the binding
will be found to be nearly perfect. It answers
especially for children’s school books, and the
muslin is very easy to work, and looks well for
a considerable length of time.

BOOIF-CO VEA’S (Leat/zer), fliarélt for. ——
Wash the cover and glaire it, take a sponge
charged with water, having the book between
wands, and drop the water from the sponge on
the different parts of the cover, sprinkle very
fine with vinegar black, then with brown, and
lastl with vitriol water. Observe to sprinkle
on t 1e colors immediately after each other, and
to wash the cover over with a clean sponge and
water.

B 001(- C O V5115 (Leat/m'), C/zz'nere Marble
fan—Color the cover of the book dark brown,
and when dry, put it into the cutting-press With
the boards perfectly flat ; mix whiting and water
of a thick consistence and throw it on, in spots
or streaks, some large and some small, w rich
must remain till dry. Spot or sprinkle the cover
with liquid blue, and lastly, throw on large spots
of liquid Jed. The colors must be dry before
washing off the whiting.

BOO/(1C0 VERS (Leather), Gran Marnie
flirt—The edge must be marbled with a good

MISCELLANEOUS:

4s:

 

bright green only. When the color is prepared
with the ox-gall, and ready for use, a few drops
of sweet oil must be mixed therein, the color
thrown on with a brush, in large spots, till the

m is perfectly covered. The oil will make a
ight edge round each spot, and have a good effect.

Blue, green, and brown may be also used se-
parately in like manner.

Sheets of paper may be done, having a trough
large enough, and the sheets damped as for print-
ing, before marbling.

Spirits of turpentine may be sprinkled on the
colors, which Will make white spots.

BOO/{sCO VERS(Leatker), japan Coloring
(Em—After the book is covered and dry, color
the cover with potash—water mixed with a little
paste, give it two good coats of Brazil wash, and
glaire it. Put the book between wands, allow-
ing the boards to slope a little. Dash on copper-
as-water, then with a sponge full of red liquid,

ress out on the back and on different parts,
arge drops, which will run down each board
and make a fine shaded red. When the cover
is dry, wash it over two or three times with
Brazil wash to give it a brighter color.

BOOK- C 0 VERS (Leather), I/Vax Marélefor.
—This marbling must be done on the fore-edge,
before the back of the book is rounded, or be-
comes round, when in boards, and finished on
the head and foot. Take beeswax and dissolve
it over the fire in an earthen vessel; take quills
stripped of their feathers, and tie them together;
dip t e quill-tops in the wax, and spot the edge,
With large and small spots; take a sponge
charged with blue, green, or red, and smear over
the edge; when done, dash off the wax, and it
will be marbled. This will be useful for station—
ery work, or for folios and quartos.

BOOKS, C/linere Edge fan—l. Color the
edge with light liquid blue and dry; then take a
sponge charged with vermilion, and dab on spots
according to fancy: next throw on rice, and

finish the edge with dark liquid blue.—2. Color ‘

light blue on different parts of the edge with a

sponge; do the same where there are vacancies .
with yellow and Brazil red; dry and dab on a

little vermilion in spots ; then throw on rice and
finish with a bold sprinkle of dark blue. Burnish.

BOOKS, T o Marble—This is performed by .
laying the color on the covers or edges with a'

brush, or by means of a wooden trough and gum
water as follows :—Provide a wooden trough, 2
inches deep, 6 inches wide, and the length of a
super-royal sheet; boil in a brass or copper pan
any quantity of linseed and water until a thick
mucilage is formed; strain itinto the trough, and
let it cool; then grind on a marble slab any of
the following colors in small beer. For (Hue,
Prussian blue or indigo ;—rezz', rose~pink, ver-

milion, or drop lake;-—-yellow, king’s yellow,’

yellow ochre, etc.;—w/zz'le, flake white;—élaek,
burntivory or lampblack;—érown, umber, burnt
do., terra di sienna, burnt (10.; black, mixed
with yellow or red, also makes brown ;-—green,
blue and yellow mixed ;-—amnge, red and yellow
mixed;—purple, red and blue mixed. For each
color you must have two cups, one for the color
after grinding, the other to mix it with ox-gall,
which must be used to thin the colors at dis-
cretion. If too much gall is used, the colors
will spread; when they keep their place on the
surface of the trough, when moved with a quill,
they are fit for use. All things being in readi-

 

ness, the colors are successively sprinkled on the
surface of the mucilage in the trough with a
brush, and are waved or drawn about with a

uill or stick, according to taste. When the
design is thus formed, the book, tied tightly
between cutting boards of the same size, is lightly
pressed with its edge on the surface of the li uid
pattern, and then withdrawn and dried. he
covers may be marbled in the same way, only
letting the liquid colors run over them. The
film of color in the trough may be as thin as
possible, and if any remains after the marbling
it may be taken off b applying paper to it before
you prepare for mar ling again. This process
has been called French Marbling.

To diversify the effect, colors are often mixed
with a little sweet oil before sprinkling them on,
by which means a light halo or circle appears
round each spot. In like manner, 5 irits of tur-
pentine, sprinkled on the surface 0 the trough,
will make white spots. By staining the book
covers with any of the liquid dyes, and then
dropping on them, or running over them, drops
of liquid mordants, a very pleasing effect may be
produced. Thus vinegar black, or a solution of
green copperas, let fall or run over common
leather, produces black spots or streaks, and
gives a similar effect with most of the light dyes.
A solution of alum or tin in like manner produ-
ces bright spots or streaks, and soda and potash
water dark ones. This style has been called
Egyptian marble—Soap mew-61in is done by
throwing on the colors, ground wit a little white
soap to a pliable consistence, by means of a
brush. It is much used for book edges, station-
ery, sheets of paper, ladies’ fancy work, etc.—
T lzread marble is given by first covering the edge
uniformly of one color, then laying pieces of
thick thread irregularly on different parts of it,
and giving it a fine dark sprinkle. When well
managed the eflect is very pleasing. —Rz're maréle
is given in a similar way to the last .by using rice.
—Tree maréle is done on leather, book covers,
etc., by bending the board a little in the centre,
and running the marbling liquid over it in the
form of vegetation. The knots are given by rub-
bing the end of a candle on those parts of the
cover.—Wax marble is given in a similar way
to thread marble, but using melted wax, which
is removed after the book is sprinkled and dried,
or asponge charged with blue, green, or red,
may be passed over. This is much used for
stationery work, especially folios and quartos.
The vinegar flack of the bookbinders is merely
a solution of acetate of iron, made by stee ing
rusty nails or iron filings in vinegar. Al the
ordinary liquid colors that do not contain strong
acids or alkalis may be used, either alone or
thickened with a little gum, for marbling or
sprinkling books.

3001275, To Gild tke Edger q/Z—The edges
of the leaves of books and letter paper are gilded
whilst in a horizontal position in the bookbind-

. er’s press, by first applying a composition formed

of four parts of Armenian hole, and one of can-
died sugar, ground together with water to a pro-
per consistence, and laid on by a brush, with the
white of an egg. This coating, when nearly dry,
is smoothed by the burnisher, which is generally
a crooked piece of agate, very smooth, and fixed
in a handle. It is then slightly moistened by a
s onge dipped in clean water, and squeezed in
t e hand. The gold-leaf is now taken upon a

452

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

piece of cotton from the leathern cushion, and
applied on the moistened surface. When dry it
is to be burnished by rubbing the agate over it
repeatedly from end to end, taking care not to
wound the surface by the point of the burnisher.
A piece of silk or India-paper is usually inter-
posed between the gold and the burnisher.

Cotton-wool is generally used by bookbinders
to take the leaf up from the cushion, being the
best adapted for the purpose on account of its
pliability, smoothness, softness, and slight moist-
ness.

BOOA’S, Gilt lettering on fire Bat/Er of:—
The place on those parts of the book which is to
receive the letters is moistened with a little al-
bumen. The letters or type are then pressed
on a piece of gold leaf, when the adhering gold
is transferred to the back of the book by press-
ing the type on the moistened spot. Superflu-
ous particles of gold are removed by blowing or
by means of a soft brush. After the lettering is

finished, the book must dry for a day before it.

is used.

3 001211110 THS.——Literary people are occa-
sionally annoyed by the depredations of minute
insects, which feed luxuriously on their fine
books, manuscripts and pamphlets. They are
popularly known as book-moths. They appear
to be in search of the paste, glue, and sizing
which are used by the binders. However old
and dry the books may be, if the room in which
they are kept, or the cases in which they are ar-
ranged, are slightly damp, it softens the old glue
or size by imbibition, just the condition required
by the invaders. In gnawing it from the paper
surface 'into which it originally penetrated, they
also destroy the texture of the leaves, so that
costly works are quite ruined. There is no bet-
ter remedy than placing the books at once in a
dry room where the moisture evaporates; and if
the sunlight acts upon the windows daily, so
much the better. The moths disappear when
the paste becomes too hard for them. Or rather
their activity is suspended, to be revived on
again removing the books into a damp apart-
ment. Russian binding is so offensive to them
that they cannot attack books in Russia leather
binding. It is not, perhaps, so generally known
as it deserves to be, that a few drops of any kind
of perfumed oil will secure books and manu-
scripts from the deteriorating effects of mould
and damp.

BOOKS, To Sprinkle t/ze Edges (y’. —The
brushes used for book-edges must be made of
Russia hogs’ bristles, of good thickness, tied
round with cord, glued at the thick end, and
half covered with a piece of leather; when dry
tie the brush again with waxed cord, within half
an inch of the soft part of it, and cut it very
smooth and even. Brushes made after this
manner are preferable to those with a handle.

Prepare the color in a cup; dip in the brush
till it is charged, and then press it out till it will
drop no longer. The book must be screwed
tight in the cutting press; hold the brush in the
left hand, and, with a folding—stick in the right,
rub it ovér the brush, which will cause the color
to sprinkle finely on the edges. The brush must
be moved u and down over the edge, as you
sprinkle, to have it regular on every part. After
the sprinkling is done, the brushes should be
carefully washed in water, particularly after
sprinkling blue, which will otherwise soon de-

 

stroy the brush.—Grem.—r. Yellow the edge,
then sprinkle with dark blue.—2. French ber-
ries, 1 part; soft water, 8 parts. Boil and add
a little powdered alum; then bring it to the re-
quired shade of green, by adding liquid blue.—
Gold.—Put into a marble mortar half an ounce
of pure honey and one book of gold leaf, rub
them well together until they are very fine, add
half a pint of clear water, and mix them well to-
gether ; when the water clears, pour it off, and
put in more, till the honey is all extracted, and
nothing remains but the gold. Mix one grain
of corrosive sublimate in a teaspoonful of spirits
of wine, and when dissolved, put the same, to-
gether with a little gum-water, to the gold, and
bottle it close for use. The edges of the book
may be sprinkled or colored very dark, with
green, blue, or purple, and lastly, with the gold
liquid, in small or large spots, very regular,
shaking the bottle before using. Bumish the
edges when dry, and cover them with paper to
prevent the dust falling thereon. This sprinkle
will have a most beautiful appearance on extra
work; ladies may use it for ornamenting their
fancy work, by putting it on with a pen or cam-
el’s-hair brush, and when dry burnish it with a
dog’s tooth. — Purple. — I. Logwood chips, 4
parts; powdered alum, I part; soft water, 24
parts. Boil until reduced to 16 parts, and bottle
for use. —2. Brazil dust (fine), and mix it with
potash water for use. —~ Hal. — Brazil-wood
(ground), 4 parts; alum, I part; vinegar, 4
parts; water, 4parts. Boil until reduced to 7
parts, then add a small quantity of loaf-sugar
and gum. Bottle for use.

BOO/(BINDERS’ VARNISIZ—s ounces
of shellac are to be dissolved in one quart of
rectified spirits of wine; add IO oz. of burned
and recently heated animal charcoal, boil a few
minutes, substract a little of the liquid, and see
if it is colorless; if not, add a little more char-
coal. When colorless, strain through silk, and
afterward filter through blotting paper; if want-
ed perfectly pure, strain when cold.

BRASS, To Clean—Take one tablespoonful
of oxalic acid, .and one half pint soft water, and
then add a small package of tripoli (such as you
buy for ten or twenty cents), or, say two good
tablespoonfuls. This will bring a beautiful pol.
ish. Allow the mixture to remain on a few
minutes, and wipe off with dry waste or woolen

raw.

'EUILDING, Fat/am z';1.—-To suppose that
timber, growing in the woods or floating in wa-
ter to-day, can be placed in a building next week,
and stay when: it is put.

That if such timber be used, the walls will
not crack.

That the base, window panels, casings, etc.,
made of such timber will not part company with
the floors from one-fourth to three-fourths of an
inch in less than a year, and that the builder put
unseasoned lumber in the latter.

That kiln-dried lumber is as good as lumber
thoroughly air-seasoned, or that the atmosphere
has no influence upon it. _

That a joint once tight will always remain so.

That if trimmings be put up before plaster-
ing, or trimmed on green walls, that putty W111
not be in great demand when they dry.

That hot air from a furnace will not start and
open every piece of wood work with which it
comes in contact, nine times out of ten.

MISCELLANEOUS.

 

That if partitions be not properly braced,
bridged, and secured at angles, that plastering
will not crack. ‘

That ceilings are less likely to crack if cross
furred. .

That a pailful of lime to a cartload of sand Will
make mortar of any practical use, either for
plastering or brick wor . ‘ ' _ _

That it injures mortar by mlxmg it some time
before using it, or that if mixed one day and ap-
plied the next, it won’t blister and crack.

That a cement roof, so soft that it fills the
leaders in summer, or so hard it cracks in win-
ter, will not occasion the want of new ceilings
in a little time.

That a “botch” can build as good a building
as a thorough mechanic.

That in all cases money is saved by contract-
ing with the lowest bidder.

That all knowledge in relation to building is
embodied in every one who signs “Architect”
after his name.

That architects and builders never “lay in to-
gether”, and owners never get “shorn” through
that little arrangement.

That architects, as a rule, get no other com-
missions on buildings except the traditional
“five per cent. on the cost.”

That builders always carry out plans and spec-
ifications to the letter.

That there are no high minded, conscientious,
competent architects, and no honest, reliable
builders; and that either class does not bear a
reputation equal to that of any other business
men.

That a builder does not require an extended
theoretical, nor an architect as extended a prac-
tical knowledge, to be successful.

That no builder can be a successful architect,
or that a practical architect cannot be a success-
ful builder.

BUILDING MATERIAL, Strengl/L of.—
Experiments are sometimes made in regard to
the power of stones of different kinds to resist
compression, by cutting one cubic inch off each,

lacing it between two steel plates, and charging
it with increasing weight till crushed. For con-
venience’ sake, this weight is applied by means
of a lever, so as to obviate the necessity of actu-
ally handling the hundreds and thousands of
pounds—one or more sliding weights on a strong

eam being sufficient for these experiments.
The results are indicated in the following table,
in which the number of pounds is that of which
the substance could bear the pressure, while it
was crushed by the addition of more:

Table of residence of a medic fuel: of diver: éuild-
mg rtoner agamrt crushing premiere

 

 

 

 

 

Weight
Name of Stone. Where used or applied
wherefore. in
Pounds
Inferior pale brick ..... For filling walls ....... 2,000-
Common good brick . . . “ partition walls ..... 4,000
Hardbrick ........... “ floors.......------

4, 50°

 

 

Pressed Phila. brick . . .
Sandstone from Acquia
Creek, strata laid ver-

“ fronts of houses. . . .
Many public buildings,

5,000

tical ..... . ..... . . . . . Washington """"" 5’5°°
Marble, Baltimore, } House trimmings, Balti-
(large crystal). . . . 8,000

Sandstone, Acquia Cr’k,

 

more ..... . .........
Public buildings, Wash-

 

(strata laid horizontal) ington ....... . . . .. . . 8,300
arble, Montgomery House-fronts, door-sills,
Co., Pa............. etc, Philadelphia.... 8,900

 

 

 

453
Wh d Weilgh‘;
ere use or app 1e
Name Of Stone. wherefore. in
Pounds
Marble, Lymington, National Washington
(strata vertical): .. Monument...” . ... . . 9,100
Marble, same, (strata National Washington
horizontal) ..... . . . . . Monument. . . . . ..... 10,100
Marble, Stockbridge. . . CityI-Iall, NewYorkCity 10,400
S d t S Smithsonian Insti- m 800
an 5 one, eneca ..... tute, Washington ,
Marble, Lymington, National Washington
(large crystal) ........ Monument .......... Ir,Ioo
Granite, Patapsco ........................... 11,200
Marble, Italian ........ Statuary . . . . . ......... 12,600
Marble, Baltimore, 18 000
(small crystal).,..... ............... ....... ,
Marble, Lymington, Washington M- t 18 200
(small crystal). ... . . . . . _ ’ ’
Marble, Hastings, N.Y. { Ufizgfgzrfutlg .g,} 19,000
Gfigfififliafljsffff} pavements ............ 19,700
Marble, Lee, Mass . . . . Housefronts, Boston etc. 22,700
“ East-Chester . . Post-Office, Washington 23,900
G D I l d I New gost-Ofiice, 1
ranite, ry s an N. . ..........
aine...........,... iExtension ofTreas-I 24’0”
ury, Washington

BURNING LENS, C/zeap and Sim 1e.—
Take two circular discs of plate glass, of t e re-
quisite dimensions, and place one at each end of
a shallow tube; an inch long will be quite
sufficient for any size; they are kept in their
position very firmly by means of screw clamps,
in an analogous manner to the two lenses for
showing Newton’s concentric colored rings. To
the ‘tube is fitted a short tube with a stop-cock
attached; to the end of this tube a condensing
syringe is fixed, and the cavity between the
glasses filled with turpentine, varnish, bleached
oil, or any other suitable substance of a high
refractive power. When the glasses have at-
tained the requisite degree of curvature, the
stopcock may be shut, the syringe screwed off,
and the fluid lens (for such in reality it is) mount-
ed for use.

BUTTER, To Restore when Randal—Pack
the rancid butter in a firkin; and then take a
barrel, put in about one bushel of charcoal, set
the firkin of butter inside the barrel, and cover
with good brine, letting it stand three or four
weeks. This will restore it unless it be very
bad. See also page 12 .

B U T T E RFLIE S, To Prepare/or Collections.
--The first thing to be procured is the butterfly-
net, which is a bag made out of two pieces of
musquito-netting—blue is the best—about two
feet deep, tapering towards the bottom, and
fastened to a piece of stout wire bent into acircle
of about a foot in diameter, the two ends of which
are fastened into alight but strong stick three or
four feet in length.

The next requisite is something to kill them
with. Chloroform is best, but in default of that
ether will do. It should be applied to the head
of the butterfly with a small camel’s hair brush. »

Then come the pins. They should be long
and slender; real butterfly pins are best, but very
fine common ones will do. Then you must have
a pasteboard box to put the butterflies in when
you catch them to bring them home.

The cases are the last thing to be thought of.
The frame of the case should be very much like
a picture frame, deep enough for the pins to go
1n, with the back, on which the butterflies are
fastened, so arran ed as to come out, being held
in place by little c eats, and a plate of glass fixed

454

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

securely on the front. It should be made of soft
wood, so that the pins can stick in easily. The
size of the _case depends upon the taste of the
collector.

“Stretching” a butterfly is the process of keep-
ing its wings in the natural position when at
rest. You should have a board with grooves in
it wide enough to admit the body of the butterfly
or moth, with little pieces of cork fastened on it
to stick the pins into. Then take some narrow
strips of soft paper, press the wings of the
butterfly down with them as nearlyin the natural

osition as possible, and fasten them with pins.
' n a few days the butterfly will be dry enough
so you can take the papers off and put it in the

case.

CANVAS, To flflzke Water ProryC—VVhite

lead 4 pounds, 5 irits of turpentine I fourth part,
white vitriol hal ounce, sugar of lead half ounce,
and boiled oil to make it thin, apply with a paint
brush to the canvas or linen, which must be
well washed to take out the stiffening; well
dried and stretched tight on a frame while being
painted.
CA 0U T CI] 0 U C for Printing-Ink Kellen:—
In order to give to vulcanized caoutchouc all that
softness which is requisite, for instance, for print-
ing-ink rollers, M. Mouton reduces ordinary
vulcanized caoutchouc to powder, places it in
suitably shaped vessels, and submits it a second
time to the temperature required for vulcaniza-
tion. By this means it is rendered soft and
smooth, has entirely lost its usual harshness,
and is fit for various uses—among these the
making of durable printing-ink rollers.

CARBONIC ACID, To [Mafia—Pour mu—
riatic acid upon fragments of chalk or marble.
The gas being heavy may be collected without
the use of water, by simply allowing the deliv-
ery tube to pass to the bottom of the receiving
vessel.

CASTOI? OIL, Mechanical um of—It is
not as universally known as it deserves to be,
that castor oil is as useful in the trades as it is in
medicine. It is much better to soften and re-
deem old leather than any other oil known.
When boots and shoes are greased with it, the
oil will not at all interfere with the polishing
afterwards, as in the case with lard, olive, or
any other kind of oil. In Harrisburg, the old
leather hose of some of the fire companies were
greased with it, and found to become almost as
soft and flexible as new leather. Leather belts
for transmitting motion in machinery will usually
last three to five years, according to the wear
and tear they are exposed to; when greased with
castor oil they will last ten years or more, as
they always remain flexible and do not crack.
Besides this advantage, castor oil prevents slip-
ping, so that a belt three inches wide, impreg-
nated with it, will be equal to a belt four and a
half inches wide without castor oil. It is neces-
sary, however, to wait twenty—four hours till the
oil has disappeared from the surface and pene-
trated the leather, otherwise the freshly greased
surface will cause slipping. Another advantage
of castor oil is that rats and other vermin detest
anything impregnated with castor oil, and will
not touch it.

CASTING in Plarler.—Obtain some fine
laster of good color, and pass it throu h amus-
n sieve, to remove any'coarser partic es which
may be present. By mixing gum-arabic with

 

the water intended to be used in the plaster, no
only will the plaster be rendered very hard when
it sets, but a beautiful gloss will be given to the
surface. Care must be taken to drop the plaster
powder gradually into the water, and to permit
the bubbles to rise before the mixture is stirred;
otherwise it will become lumpy. The plaster
should be of the consistence of the yelk of an
egg, and of course used immediately. If the
medal intended to be copied is a valuable one,
with a smooth surface, it will be advisable not to
oil it, as, in cleaning the oil off, the polish may
be injured; but if the surface be rough, there
will be no remedy, and the oil must afterwards
be removed by dabbing the surface of the metal
gently with a soft cloth. A rim of thin lead,
brass, co per, or even oiled paper, is then tied
around t e medal, and some liquid plaster, in
the first place, stippled over its surface with a
soft brush, to prevent the formation of air-bub-
bles, as well as to insure its insertion into the
most minute crevices ; after which the plaster is
poured upon the surface to the thickness of half
an inch, or an inch if a large medal. To cause
the separation of the mold from the metal, all
we have to do is to immerse it in water, when it
is readily removed; otherwise the mold is sure
to be broken. To obtain a plaster cast from this
mold, we must oil it with warm boiled linseed
oil, and allow it several days to dry. Whenever
the mold is used, it must be well oiled, other-
wise the surface of the castings will be destroyed.
The best olive oil must be used, or the color of
the plaster will be injured.

CASTING in Wax.——The mold is first made
in plaster; but before being used is placed in
warm water, of which it is allowed to absorb as
much as it will take—oil not being used in this
process. The surface must then be allowed to
dry, or the wax would not adhere closely. Pure
wax is too greasy for the purpose, and bladder
flake-white is therefore mixed with it. The
quantity can not be stated, but the addition of
too much gives wax the appearance of plaster,
by taking away its richness. If the wax is often
remelted, its color is injured. In order to obtain
a gray marble color, a marble powder, procura-
ble of any statuary, is mixed with the wax,_wh1ch
not only gives a beautiful appearance to it, but
renders it more durable. The wax is poured
into the mold, and allowed to flow over its sur-
face, and by moistening the plaster mold in wa-
ter when the wax has become hard, the cast is
easily removed. Wax models may be fastened
by means of boiled linseed oil and flake-white,
and also by a combination of beeswax and resm.

CASTING in Sulpfiun—This is a very per-
manent mode; but as a mold it can only be used
for plaster,.for hot wax or sul hur would injure
its surface. When sulphur is eated to the tem-
perature suitable for forming casts it becomes
nearly black, and has, therefore, to be covered
with vermilion in the roportion of one ounce of
vermilion to three otP sulphur. The surfaceof
the mold, however, need only be coated w1th
this expensive mixture, and common sulphur
added in any quantity. You must use_wood to
stir the sulphur, as iron will take away its color.
The sulphur will take fire in melting unless It IS
properly stirred, and at first Wlll. become thick
and viscid; but by continuing the application
of heat it will again assume a perfectly liquid
form.

MIS CE LLA NE 0 US.

CASTING in Glue.-—If a medal is so much
sunk and engraved that you can not get a plaster
cast off, a mold may be obtained by pouring glue
upon it. In this manner a bunch of grapes can
be taken in the natural state, and by cutting the
glue down the center, the grapes can be extract-
ed, and the molds used to produce a representa-
tion of the original in plaster. Isinglass may be
similarly used, but it is first mixed with flake-
white in the state of powder.

CASTING in Bread Patten—Take the inside
of a penny roll and work it well up with vermil-
ion, the longer the better, until it becomes vis-
cid and tough; it is then to be worked well into
the mold. After having obtained the mold, it
must be fastened down upon a piece of wood by
wetting it, so as to prevent it from warping as
it dries. After it has been thoroughly dried,
you may oil it, and then obtain as many casts as
you please from it in plaster, wax, or sulphur.
By means of bread paste, a traveler may al-
ways take a mold of any small object of interest
he meets with on his journey, and thus a proper
kéipwledge of its mode of use becomes invalu-
a e.

CEMEN T S, Colored—A writer in Complex
Renu’m states that colored cements which harden
rapidly may be made as follows: He takes a
so ution of silicate of soda (sp. gr., 1.298) and
adds to it, while stirring, first pulverized and

reviously washed, lixiviated chalk, so as to
orm a thick mass, like butter, to which are add-
ed, for coloring urposes, the following sub-
stances: Finely pu verized sulphuret of antimony
for black, iron filings for gray, zinc dust for
whitish gray, carbonate of copper for bright
green, oxide of chromium for deep green, cobalt
blue for blue, red lead for orange, vermilion for
bright red, and carmine for a violet hue. This
cement hardens within from six to eight hours,
and may afterward be polished, becoming like
marble.

C EM E N T fertilizer Leatheror Rudder Straps.
——Gutta percha, 16 oz. ; India rubber, 4 02.; pitch,
2 01.; linseed oil, 2 oz. Cut the rubber in shreds
and add the oil, which in a few days will have
softened the former. Melt carefully the gutta
percha and pitch together, and stir in the rubber
solutlon, or paste, apply hot, and press joints.

CHAIRS—An eminent physician, speaking
of chairs, remarks that they are too high and too
nearly horizontal. We slide forward, and our
spines ache. The seats should be fifteen or six-
teen inches high in the front for men, and‘from
eight to fourteen inches for children and women.
The back part of the seat should be from one to
three inches lower than the front part. This
last is very important. The depth of the seat
from front to back should be the same as the
hight. The chair back is likewise unphilosoph-
ical. The dpart which meets the small of the
backshoul project furthest forward. Instead
0f.tl'l_lS, at that point there is generally a hollow;
this IS the cause of so much ain and weakness
in the small of the back. he present seats
produce discomfort, round shoulders and other
distortions.

. CHALK: Prépared.—Take a solution of mu-
riate of lime, an add a solution of carbonate of
soda as long as it causes precipitation; wash the
sediment, and dry it.

CHARCQAL MA KING—Charcoal made
from wood is a form of carbon containing the

 

. 455

ashes, or incombustible portions of the wood
from which it is prepared, and some of its vola~
tile ingredients. The principal object of its pre-
paration is its superior heat-making properties
as compared with wood. The greater portion
of the charcoal offered for sale is burned in kilns,
but in thickly wooded regions much is made in
the primitive manner which is known as “Char-
ring in pits.” The most ancient method of pre-
paring charcoal was to throw the wood in pits
dug in the ground, and to keep it partially cov-
ered with earth while consuming, and although
the wood is now charred on the surface and not
in excavations, the process is still called “Pit
charring.” When it is proposed to make a
quantity of wood charcoal, a level place is pre~
pared for the foundation of the pit as it is called,
although it is in reality a mound. A chimney
is then made by driving stakes of the desired
hight arranged in a circle about eighteen inches
in diameter. The wood for coaling is cut four
feet long and hauled to the pit, the large sticks
being firstSplit. Itis not absolutely necessary that
the wood be dry, though the more complete the
seasoning the better the results of the charting,
since the more water there is present the more
heat is abstracted, and more fuel is necessary to
expel it. The first sticks are set up against the
chimney, the next against these, then others on
top of these, and so on, all leaning a little to-
ward the center, until the pile has attained the
required size, say twenty-five cords for a thou-
sand-bushel pit.

When the arrangement of the pile is finished,
the outer surface is filled in with chips and sticks,
and the whole is covered with branches, twigs,
leaves, straw or moss, upon which sods or moist-
ened earth are laid together with fine charcoal
waste of previous burnings, the depth of the
covering varying from six to eight inches, and
the whole being smoothed and firmly spatted
down. Draught holes two or three inches in
diameter and four feet apart, are made in the
covering at the bottom. A fire is kindled in the
bottom of the chimney from the top, and when
well a-burning the chimney is filled with wood
and covered like the rest of the pit. Constant
watch must now be kept that the wood does not
burn too rapidly. Evidence of its doing so is
given by the appearance of blue smoke, as only
a steam-like vapor rises from the vents when the'
process of charring is going on properly. When
this smoke is seen the fire is smothered by pack-
ing in green wood at the threatened point, and
covering it again closely with straw and earth.
If all goes well, a thousand-bushel pit will be
burned in ten or fifteen days. As the process
proceeds, it is necessary to fill up some of the

oles and 0 en others according as the burning
progresses rom one portion of the pile to the
other, or needs accelerating or retarding. Chan-
nels ar'e made under the heap for the tarry mat-
ters which run out from the wood towards the
close of the process.

When the operation is completed the coal is
raked out with long-toothed iron rakes. It is
best to do this work at night, as then any re-
maining spark of fire can be detected and prompt-
ly extinguished by throwing coal dust or moist-
ened earth on it. After the uncharred brands
are removed the coal is ready for market. The
coal is hauled away in wagons divided into deep,
wide-topped boxes holding 100 bushels or more.

456

DICTIONARY OF E VER Y-DA Y WANTS.

 

To dump the coal, the horses are hitched to a
staple in the hinder part of the wagon bottom,
which is made to slide out, the team is started
and the coal falls out underneath. Log pits are
made by arranging twelve-foot logs in layers.
The interstices between the logs are packed with
poles and small wood, the pile being boarded
up at the ends of the logs, leaving a space of
several inches between the boarding and the
logs, to be filled with earth, after which the ends
and top of the pile are covered with straw and
earth, as in the circular pit. The fire is kindled
in a trench dug under one end, two feet wide
and two feet deep. Vent or draught holes are
made under the boarding. These log pits are
sometimes ten rods long, and it is not unusual
to draw coal from one end, while the other end
is yet burning.

Oak and alder make the best charcoal, next to
them birch of all kinds, pine, basswood, poplar,
and spruce. Hemlock is the least desirable wood
for this purpose, as it makes snapping coal. '

CIIIZIL’VE YS, To Build—Let the bed be
laid of brick and mortar, iron or stone; then the
workman should take a brick in his left hand,
and with the trowel, draw the mortar upon the
and of the brick, from the under side, and not
from the outside edge, as is usual. Then, by
pressing the brick against the next one, the
whole space between the two bricks will be filled
with mortar; and so he should point up the inside
as perfectly as the outside, as he proceeds.

By drawing the mortar on the edge of the
brick, the space between the ends willnot always
be entirely filled, and will make (where the
inside pointing is not attended to) a leaky and
unsafe chimney, which, if not kept clear of soot,
will, in burning out, stand a good chance of
setting the building on fire.

CHIMNE YS, Salt in Building—In build-
ing a chimney, put a quantity of salt into the
mortar with which the intercourses of brick are
laid. The effect will be that there will never be
any accumulation of soot in that chimney. The
philosophy is thus stated: The salt in the portion
of mortar which is exposed, absorbs moisture
every damp day. The soot thus becoming
damp falls down into the fireplace.

CHIMIVE YS, T a Cure w/zm Smoky—The
' common causes of smoky chimneys are either
that the wind is too much let in above at the
mouth of the shaft, or else that the smoke is
stifled below. They may also proceed from
there being too little room in the vent, particu-
larly where several open into the same funnel.
The situation of the house may likewise affect
them, especially if backed by higher ground or
higher buildings.

The best method of cure is to carry from the
air a pipe under the floor and opening under the
fire; or, when higher objects are the cause, to
fix a movable cowl at the top of the chimney.

In regard to smoky chimneys, a few facts and
cautions may be useful; and a very simple rem-
edy may often render the calling in of masons
and bricklayers unnecessary.

Observe that a northern aspect often produces
a smoky chimney.

A single chimney is apter to smoke than when
it forms part of a stack.

Straight funnels seldom draw well.

Large fire-places are apt to smoke, particularly
when the aperture of the funnel does not corres-

 

pond in size. For this a temporary remedy may
e found in opening a door or window—a per«
manent cure by diminishing the lower aperture.

When asmoky chimney is so incorrigible as to
require a constant admission of fresh air into the
room, the best mode is to introduce apipe, one
of whose apertures shall be in the open air and
the other under the grate; or openings may be
made near the top of the apartment, if lofty, with-
out any inconvenience even to persons sitting
close by the fire.

This species of artificial ventilation will always
be found necessary for comfort where gas is used
internally, whether a fire is lighted or not.

here a chimney only smokes when a fire is
first lighted, this may be guarded against by al-
lowing the fire to kindle gradually ; or more
promptly by laying any inflammable substance,
such as shavings, on the top of the grate, the
rapid combustion of which will warm the air in
the chimney, and give it a tendency upwards,
before any smoke is produced from the fire itself.
If old stove-grates are apt to smoke, they may
be improved by setting the stove further back.
If that fails, contract the lower orifice.

In cottages, the shortness of the funnel or
chimney may produce smoke; in which case the
lower orifice must be contracted as small as pos-
sible by means of an upright register.

If a kitchen chimney overpowers that of the
parlor, as is often the case in small houses, ap-
ply to each chimney a free admission of air, until
the evil ceases.

When a chimney is filled with smoke, not of
its own formation, but from the funnel next to it,
an easy remedy offers, in covering each funnel
with a conical top, or earthen crock, not cylind-
rical, but a frustum of a cone, by means of which
the two openings are separated a few inches, and
the cold air or the gust of wind no longer forces
the smoke down with them.

If these remedies fail it will be generally found
that the chimney only smokes when the wind is
in a particular quarter, connected with the posi-
tion of some higher building, or a hill, or a grove
of trees. In such cases the common turncap, as
made by tinmen and ironmongers, will generall
be found fully adequate to the end proposed.
case has occurred of curing a smoky chimney ex-
posed to the northwest wind, and commanded
by a lofty building on the southeast, by the fol.
lowing contrivance.

A painted tin cap, of a conical form, was sus-
pended by a ring and swivel, so as to swmg over
the mouth of the chimney-pot by means of an
arched strap or bar of iron nailed on each side of
the chimney. When a gust of wind laid this cap
(which, from its resemblance in form and use to
an umbrella, is called a paravent or wind-guard)
close to the pot on one side, .it opened a wider
passage for the escape of the smoke on the o —
posite side, whichever way the wind came, whi e
rain, hail, etc., were effectually prevented from
descending the flue. .

CHINA WARE, To Makes—The composr-
tion of the eastern or proper chin-aware, accord-
ing to accounts that have great marks of authen-
ticity, is from two earths; one of which is, as
was before mentioned, called petunse; the other
a refractory earth, called kaolin. .

The preparation of the petunse, or alummous
earth, is b pounding the stone till it is reduced
to a. very e powder, and then washing it over

MISCELLANEO US.

to bring it to the most impalpable state, which
is thus performed: After the stone is rendered
as fine as it can be by pounding or grinding, the
powder must be put into a large tub all of water,
and, being stirred about, the upper part of the
water must be laded out into another tub, by
which means the finest articles of the powder
will be carried into it. he water in the second
tub must be then suffered to stand at rest till the

owder be subsided, and as much as can be
aded off clear must be put back into the first tub
and there being again stirred about, and loaded
with a fresh quantity of the most subtle part of
the powder, must be laded again into the second
tub as before, and this must be repeated till none
be left in the first tub but the grosser part of the
stone, which, not being of a due fineness, must
be again pounded, and treated as at first. The
fine powder obtained in the second tub, must be
then freed from the water, by lading off the clear
part, and suffering what remains to exhale, till
the matter becomes of the consistence of soft
clay, when it will be fit to be commixed with the
kaolin for use.

The kaolin is prepared in the same manner by
washing over; but some specimens are so fine,
that there is no occasion for this or any other
purification.

From these two mixed together, the clay or
paste is formed ;~ but it is said that the propor-
tion of the respective quantities is made to vary
according to the intended goodness of the ware,
the best being made from equal quantities, and
the worst from two of the kaolin to one of the
petunse.

CHINA (Englirfz), Composition of: —- The
following composition will produce wares, which
will possess the properties of the true china, if
judiciously managed.

Mix the best white sand, or calcined flints,
finely powdered, 20 lbs.; of very white pearlash,
5 lbs.; of white calcined bones, 2 lbs. Temper
the whole with the gum Arabic or senegal, dis-
solved in water.

This requires a considerable force and continu-
ance of heat to bring it to perfection, but it will
be very white and good when it is properly
treated. Where mica can be obtained, it is
preferable to calcined bones, and as it will form
a kind of paste for working, a weaker gum—water
will answer the purpose.

CHAVA (Saxon or Drerden), T 0 Mata—The
Saxon composition, of which the chinaware is
formed, is greatly similar to that of the eastern.
In the place of the petunse, a stone is used, which
is improperly called in the German language,
bleyspatt, or spar of lead. It is a stone of a very
opposite nature, as spars are calcareous, and will,
on calcining, become lime; on the other hand,
this stone is of a vitreous nature. This spar is
of a very hard texture, and of a light flesh-color,
or ale whitish red. It is prepared by pounding
an washing over, which may be done as above
directed, and it is then ready for compounding
with the mica. The mica is employed in the
Saxon composition for the other ingredients;
and is likewise prepared by grinding and washing
over, when it is not in a perfect and pure state;
but when it is entirely clean, it may be tempered
with the texture, thoroughly broken, and it will
be of the consistence of soft clay.

The two kinds of earth being repared in the
state of a soft paste, they are to fie incorporated

 

457

and blended into one mass, which is done by
rolling and stirring them well after they are in
the same vessel, and then kneading them with
the feet till they are thoroughly united. When
the compound mass is formed, it is made into
cakes, or square pieces, and put by layers into
cases of wood or stone, which must be placed in
a moist situation, and left for 2 or 3 months;
during which time a kind of ferment enters into
the mixture, by which the parts of the different
matter combine and form a substance with new
qualities, unknown while separate. This change
shows itself upon the whole mass by a fetid
smell,- and a greenish or bluish color, and a
tenacity like that of clay, or the argillaceous
moistened earths. If the time of keeping the
paste in this condition be prolonged to a year
or more, it will further improve its qualities, but
great care must be taken to preventits becoming
dry; to prevent which, there may be occasion
to water it. When, however, the described
qualities are found in the matter, it is fit for use,
and vessels, etc., may be wrought of it without
any other preparation.

CHLORINE, To Mata—Heat gently a mix.
ture of muriatic acid and black oxide of manga-
nese. It may be collected like carbonic acid.
Care must be taken not to inhale it.

CHROMOS, T a Gleam—When you clean
them use a soft feather brush, or wipe them with
soft Chamois skin (a drop of oil may' restore
@arness), or with a fine linen rag very slightly
dampened. Always tenderly.

Next, whenever the original varnish coating is
dulled, bruised, 0r rubbed, revarnish it with thin
mastic varnish.

Chromos, like oil paintings, should not be
hung in a dark room, but in one with diffused
light; and never exposed to the direct rays of
the sun.

The chromos after water-colors keep and dis-
play better when placed under glass, as they lack
the protecting COVer of the varnish. The larger
chromos, after oil paintings, display, as a general
rule, best when framed like original paintings.
It is not necessary to put any of these under
glass; it is a matter of taste,—preserving them,
at the same time, from dust and rough handling.

CISTERIV, Filtering—To obtain the best
water at all times, it is not enough that the water
be well filtered. To illustrate:—A cistern of
2,000 gallons is filled. After some weeks of con-
tinued dry weather, the amount is reduced to,
say, I,OOO gallons, at which time the quality of
the water will have sensibly improved. A shower
occurs, pouring into the cistern, say, 300 gals.
The 1,000 gallons is violently mixed with the
newly fallen rain, and the result is, the quality
of the water is injured for a time, or until suffi-
cient time has elapsed to allow it to settle again.

Again, the process of filtration cannot proper-
ly be accomplished in the short time allowed by
slome1 devices. Water should be filtered very
s ow y.

Then, every filtering apparatus should be
cleaned out, and all the materials employed
thoroughly washed or renewed regularly and
somewhat frepuently, as required by the charac-
ter of the too and the situation of the house, as
regards smoke, cinders, dust, etc.

To accomplish the best results, I would con-
struct a cistern of requisite capacity, above the
bottom of the cellar, into which all the water

458

from the roof should be turned. Another cistern
of equal capacity, of what is known as the “jug”

attern, should be built below the cellar bottom,

aving a neck of proper size extending slightly
above, and kept closed by a tight cover. Be-
tween the two cisterns, construct a box of wood
or bricks, say six to ten feet long, and twelve to
sixteen inches square, with partitions alternately
extending nearly to the top and bottom. Fill
this box with the proper filtering materials :‘
broken stone, well washed coarse and fine grav-
el and sand, charcoal, and, finally, at the outlet,
fine sponge.

The stream of water from the receiving cistern
should be very small, say one-quarter inch in
diameter, which, entering the box at one end,
would gently percolate through the mass of fil-
tering materials, and by a small block tin pipe,
be conveyed to the bottom of the lower cistern,
from which it would be pumped as wanted. The
flow would be constant, or until the upper cis-
tern was emptied. This box should also be kept
closed by a tight cover, which, when lifted,
would allow ready access to remove all the fil-
tering materials, to be washed and returned, or,
what is better, to be replaced by clean, fresh
materials.

The bottom of the upper cistern should be
concave, connecting by a pipe and stop-cock
with the drain. Occasionally, when nearly ex—
hausted, it could be easily and thoroughly cleane‘i
and rinsed out, the sediment and dirty water es-
caping by the drain. The bottom of the lower
cistern should also be concave, and at intervals
the pipe between the two cisterns should be
closed, to allow the lower one to become ex-
hausted in order to cleanse that also.

The upper cistern should be covered by a brick
arch, or by matched pine plank, made perfectly
tight. Otherwise the evaporation from such a
body of water will be injurious to both structure
and inmates.

The device of making a filter by a brick parti-
tion, or wall in the cistern, drawing the water
from the side opposite the ingress pipe, is quite
etfectual for a time. A little reflection, however,
will show that the sediment taken from the wa-
ter remains; either in the pores of the brick, or
in the form of a coating on the surface; and
that, after a time, it will vitiate its purpose,
and become comparatively inoperative and use-
less.

The objection to my filtering system is the in-
creased expense; and those parties obliged to
depend upon a rain water supply, and who, from
necessity or choice, prefer the cheapest article,
when first cost alone is considered, will not adopt
it; but in many places in the country, where
persons want permanently pure water, even if
obtained at a greater expense, I think no better
arrangement has been devised.

The principal value of a filter depends upon
keeping it clean ; and to continue to use water,
month after month, after the filtering materials
have become foul, is not consistent with our
ideas of cleanliness, and is positively injurious.

The cistern from which the water is used be-
ing at a distance below the cellar bottom, the
water is kept sufl'iciently cool, even in hot weath-
er, to be very palatable.

Some persons, not using a filter, adopt the
expedient of having two cisterns on the same
level, both connected with the pump, using from

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERKDA Y I’VANTS.

each alternately as the other becomes exhausted.
This arrangement is a great improvement upon
a single cistern, but will not compare with two,
arranged as described above.

The cost of two first class cisterns, of 2,000
gallons capacity each, with filter constructed in
the most thorough manner, would, in most 10-.
calities, be less than the cost of a properly con-
structed well forty feet in depth.

CLARE T, To Distinguis/z Gmm'm’ from
Imitation—It is well known that by far the ma-
jority of claret consumed in this country has
never seen France, but is made artificially on
this side of the Atlantic. It is also no secret
that many of these imitations are highly delete.
rious to health. Every lover of the genuine.
article will therefore feel indebted to Messrs,
Cottini & F antogini for their simple method of
distinguishing the two. The mix fifty cubic
centimeters of the suspected c aret with 6 cubic
centimeters of nitric acid of 42° Baumé, (1.40
spec. gravity,) and heat the mixture to 90—95°
Celsius, or nearly the boiling point of water.
If the claret is genuine, it will not change its
appearance even if treated for an hour, while the
imitated article loses its color in about five min-

utes.

CLOClr', To Make for 25 Carla—First you
get a sheet of stout mill-board, such as is used
by bookbinders. This will cost you from six to
ten cents. Get size twenty-seven by twenty-two
inches. Draw two lines the longest way equally
distant from the edge and each other. This di-
vides it into three parts of the same size. Now
from the top measure off ten inches for the face,
and then with your knife partly cut the board
through the rest of the lines below the face, and
bend them back and glue together by putting a
strip of cloth over the edges where they meet.
Mark out the face of your clock, and makea
hole for the hands. Go to your tinman, and he
will make you a funnel-shaped spout, which you
must glue on the bottom. Then make a spool
like a cone—running to a point on one end—
and eight inches across on the other. Wind a
string on this cone, commencing at the large
end, and winding down just as you would a top.
Tie to the end a conical ink bottle filled with
sand. Make some wooden hands, and put them
on the face. Then fill your box, now made, with
sand, and when it is hung up the sand will run
out slowly at the bottom, and as the sand goes
out the weights lower, and turn the wheel,
which makes the hands go around. It will de.
pend upon the size of the hole at the bottom
as to how fast it runs. You can paint it, and
make it quite an ornament and curiosity in your
house.

CLOTH (Black), To Gleam—Dissolve one
ounce of bicarbonate of ammonia in one quart of
warm water. With this liquid rub the cloth,
using a piece of flannel or black cloth forthe
purpose. After the application of this solution,
clean the cloth well with clear water, dry and
iron it, brushing the cloth from time to time in
the direction of the fiber.

CLO TH (Enameled ), T o Mata—The found-
ation of the article is cotton cloth of the best
quality, made expressly for this manufacture.
It varies in texture and width according to the
kind of goods for which it is intended. The cloth
is taken from the- bale and wound upon a large
iron cylinder, and looks in that position very

MISCELLANEO US.

much like the huge rolls of home-made cloth.
It is now ready to receive its first coat; so it is
slowly passed through the machine, across and
between the hngeiron cylinders, from the smaller
of which, at the top, it receives its first coating
of composition—a black, disagreeable-looking
substance, composed of oil, lamp-black, resin,
and other ingredients, boiled together, till about
the consistency of melted tar. From between
the cylinders, dressed in its black coat, the cloth
is carried to and wound upon a huge wooden-
frame, resembling in shape the old-fashioned
reel. By an arrangement of spokes u on the
arms of this huge wheel, each layer 0 cloth is
kept separate, so that no two portions of the
cloth will come in contact. The frame, with its
contents when filled, is passed into what is
called the heater, an apartment kept at a high
temperature, for the purpose of drying in the
coating or composition. After remaining in the
heater 3. sufficient length of time to complete the
drying process, itis removed and passed through
the hands of workmen who make all the rough
places smooth. It is laid on long tables, and
the workmen alternately sprinkle with water and
rub with pumice-stone, till the whole surface is
made perfectly smooth. The cloth is then wound
upon the cylinder again, as at first, and passed
through the machine to the huge reels, and again
under the pumice-stone. The cloth is passed
through the machine five times, or till the re-
quired thickness has been laid on. After the
last scrubbing down, the fabric is taken to
another department, thoroughly varnished, and
again passed through the heater. It is now
represented as a piece of cotton-cloth, with a
thick, shilling coat of black, very much resem-
bling patent leather. But it has not yet received
its leather finish; so in another apartment it is
passed through the enamel-machine, which con-
sists of another set of huge rollers, one of which
covers its surface with regular indentations re-
sembling the grain of a feather. The cloth is
now carefully measured, and rolled up in pack-
ages of suitable size, put up in boxes, and is ready
for the market.

COA C HMA K ERS, [Jim‘s to.—A correspond-
ent of the Coachmakers’ Journal says: In lug-
ging screw holes we glue the edge 0 the
plug; put no glue in the hole. By this means,
the surplus glue is left on the surface, and if the

lug does not hit the screw it will seldom show:

e set the heads of brads well in, then pass a
sponge of hot water over them, filling the holes
with hot water. This brings the wood more to its
natural position, and closes, bydegrees, over the
head of the brad. When dry, sandpaper off and
paint, and the putty will not hit the head of the

rad; if it does, it will surely show bad. The
brad must have achance to expand when exposed
to the heat of the sun, and not hit the putty; if it
does it will force the utt out. \Ve have had
no trouble with brad ea 5 or plugs since we
ado ted this practice.
0AA. Efirt of Exposure on.—-Coal deteri-
orates rapidly from exposure to the weather. Ac~
cording to scientific experiments, coal ex osed
to the weather in heaps during a period 0 nine
months loses fifty per cent. of its value as fuel.
It undergoes a process of slow combustion, taking
up_ oxygen and giving off the volatile products of
oxrdatton—arr and moisture playing the principal
part, and warmth promoting it; the valuable

 

459

combustible ingredients are lost, and the injurious
ones, as sulphur, oxygen and ash, are relatively
increased. Neither wood nor coal can bear long
exposure to the elements without losing a large
share of its value for fuel.

COAL FIRE, T a Malta—The art of mak-
ing and maintaining a coal fire roperly is pos-
sessed by but few. We believe t at there would
be a sensible diminution in the number of do-
mestic quarrels and soured tempers, if a knowl-
edge of it were more general. Husbands would
not have to growl and scold over so many late
dinners, nor wives fret themselves to skin and
bone over obstinate fires that will neither bake,
roast nor boil.

There are many faults in the usual construction
of a coal fire. A common fault is to use too
coarse wood for kindling, and too much of it.
This, while it generally succeeds in lighting the
coal, leaves a bed of ashes below the coal which
interferes with the draft, unless raked out. The
wood should be of some rapidly burning variety,
which gives a quick and high heat, and should
be split fine. It should be so placed that the
coal will remain on the top of it, and not fall
through to the grate, leaving the kindling on the
top of any part of the coal.

A common mistake is to use too large sized
coal. A good rule, where stoves or furnaces
have a good draft, is to use coal as small as can
be used without inconvenience from its sifting
too freely through the grate.

Grates should have their bars closely set, for
stoves that are cleaned out daily, and have fires
lighted in them each morning, while thosewhich
are intended to have fire kept in them continu-:«
ously for days and weeks will not admit of fine
grates, on account of the accumulation of ashes
and small clinkers. ‘

There is much difference in coal in regard to
the formation of clinkers. These are nothing
but vitrified or partially vitrified earthy matters,
and only can form when a high heat is maintain—
ed; they are apt to be troublesome when there
is too great draft. A coal-stove or furnace
should, therefore be so constructed that its
draft can be perfectl controlled. The bottom
draft should admit ofy being closed air-tight, as
nearly as is possible to make it, and there ought
always to be provision made for a top draft.

If, however, the draft of a chimney should be
so strong that air in too great quantitiesis drawn
in at the bottom when the dampers are closed,
a damper in the pipe, which will close it partially,
must be employed, though in sluggish chimneys
such a damper is apt to force the gases of com-
bustion into the room, and therefore it ought al-
ways to be avoided when possible.

The: practice of putting ashes on the top of a
fire to keep it, is very productive of clinkers,
although it answers very well in other respects.
Damp coal screenings are better, and may be
economically burned in this manner. If a coal
fire gets very low, the quickest way to extinguish
it is to rake it at the bottom. To preserve a fire
under such circumstances, a little coal should
be placed on the fire, and when it has caught
more may be added, and the raking deferred
until it has got well ignited.

When the fire-bricks have become burdened
with clinkers which have fused and adhered, they
may be cleaned by throwing oyster or clam
shells into the fire-box when the fire is very hot,

460

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DA Y WANTS.

 

and allowing the fire to go out. The clinkers
will generally cleave off without the use of much
force the next morning. From two quarts to
half a peck will be sufficient for most stoves, and
the operation can be repeated if some of the
clinkers still adhere.

COPYRIGHT (Law (2/), will: Directions
fir Seenring Copy; ig/zts Under the Revised Act
(2/ Congress A ppmved 9%!) 8th, 187o.—I. A
printed copy of the title of the book, map, chart,
dramatic or musical composition, engraving, cut,
print, photograph, chromo, or a description of
any design for a work of the fine arts for which
copyright is desired, must be sent by mail, ad-
dressed

LIBRARIAN OF CONGRESS,
COPYRIGHT MATTER. WASHINGTON, D. C.

This must be done before publication of the
book or other article.

2. A fee of 50 cents, for recording the title of
each book or other article, must be inclosed
with the title as above, and 50 cents in addition
(or $1 in all) for each certificate of copyright
under seal of the Librarian of Congress, which
will be transmitted by return mail.

3. Within ten days after publication of each
book or other article, two complete copies of the
best edition issued must be mailed to perfect the
copyright, with the address

LIBRARIAN OF CONGRESS,
COPYRIGHT MATTER. WASHINGTON, D. C.

If the above direction is complied with, both
books and titles will come free of postage, and
postmasters will give receipt for the same if re-
quested. Without the deposit of copies above
required, the copyright is void, and a penalty of

25 is incurred. N 0 copy is required to be de-
posited elsewhere.

4. Copyrights recorded at a date prior to July
8, 1870, in any district clerk’s office, do not re-
quire re-entry at Washington. But one copy
of each book or other article published since the
act of March 4, 1865, is required to be deposited
in the Library of Congress, if not already done.
Without such deposit the copyright is void.

5. No copyright hereafter issued is valid un-
less notice is given by inserting in every copy

ublished, on the title page or the page follow-
ing, if it be a book, or if a map, chart, musical
composition, print, cut, engraving, photograph,
painting, drawing, chromo, statue, statuary, or
model or design intended to be perfected and
completed as a work of the fine arts, by inscrib-
ing upon some portion of the face or front
thereof, or on the face of the substance on which
the same is mounted, the following words, viz. :
Entered according to act of Congress, in the
year , b , in the office of the Librarian
of Congress at Washington. "

The law im oses a penalty of $100 upon any
person who as not obtained copyright, who
shall insert the notice ‘ ‘entered according to act
of Congress,” etc., or words of the same import,
in or upon any book or other article.

6. Any author may reserve the right to trans-
late or to dramatize his own work. In this
case notice should be given by printing the
words, Right of translation reserved, or All
rights reserved, below the notice of copyright
entry, and notifying the Librarian of Congress
of such reservation, to be entered upon the record.

7. Each cop right secures the exclusive right
of publishing e book or article copyrighted for

 

 

 

the term of twenty-eight years. At the end of
that time, the author or designer may secure a
renewal for the further term of fourteen years,
making forty-two years in all. Applications for
renewal must be accompanied by explicit state-
ment of ownership, in the case of the author, or
of relationship, in the case of his heirs, and must
state definitely the date and place of entry of the
original copyright.

8. The time within which any work copy-
righted may be issued from the press is not lim-
ited by any law or regulation, but depends upon
the discretion of the proprietor. A copyright
may be secured for a projected work, as well as
for a completed one.

9. Any copyright is assignable in law by any
instrument of writing; but such assignment
must be recorded in the office of the Librarian
of Congress within sixty days from its date.
The fee for this record is fifteen cents for every
100 words, and ten cents for every 100 words
for a copy of the record of assignment.

To. In the case of books published in more
than one volume, if issued or sold separately, or
of periodicals published in numbers, or of en-
gravings, photographs, or other articles pub-
lished with variations, a copyright is to be taken
out of each volume of a book, or number of a
periodical, or variety, as to size or inscription,
of any other article.

11. To secure a copyright for a painting,
statue, or model or design intended to be per-
fected as a work of the fine arts, so as to prevent
infringement by copying, engraving, or vending
such design, a definite description must accom-
pany the application for copyright, and a photo-
graph of the same, at least as large as “cabinet
size,” should be mailed to the Librarian of Con:
gres]: within ten days from the completion of the
wor .

12. Every applicant for a copyright must state
distinctly in whose name the copyright is to be
entered, and whether the right is claimed as
author, designer, or proprietor. No affidavit or
formal application is required.

C ORAL, Artz'fiez'al.—Yellow resin, 4 parts;
vermilion, I part. Melt. This gives a very
pretty effect to glass, twigs, Cinders, stones, etc.,
dipped into it. It is also useful for a cement for
ladies’ fancy work, such as grottoes, etc.

CORAL BASKETS, To Imz’tate. — Make
the basket of pasteboard in any shape you please;
dissolve three sticks of sealing-wax m a pint of
alcohol; wet the basket with this mixture, and
sprinkle on rice which has been about half
ground; let it dry, and repeat the process until
the pasteboard is covered, after which paint it
with the mixture until it is red enough. A brush
of hair or feathers should be used.

COT T 01V, To Deter! in Linen Fabien—
A German Professor has discovered the means,
by the aid of chemistry, of recognizing the pres-
ence of cotton in linen fabrics. He takes a iece
of the sus ected cloth, about two inches by t ree-l
fourths 0 an inch, and, after having unraveled
both weft and warp, plunges it‘ in an alcoholic
solution of aniline and fuchsine. The superflu-
ous coloring matter is removed by washing the
cloth thus dyed several times in water. If, while
it is still wet, it be placed in a saucer containing
ammonia, the cotton fibres will immediately be-
come discolored, while those of linen will pre-
serve a fine red color.

MISCELLANEO US.

461

 

C OUGfl, Lemon flux—Roast the lemon very
carefully without burning it; when it is thor-
oughly hot, cut and squeeze into a cup upon 3
Gunces of sugar, finely powdered. Take a spoon-
‘l'ul whenever your cough troubles you. It is

0d and agreeable to the taste. Rarely has it
Egen known to fail of giving relief.

COUNTERFEI T MONEY, Ruler fir
Detecting—I. Examine the form and features
of all human figures on the notes. If the forms

"are graceful and features distincflexamine the
draper —-see if the folds lie natural; and the
hair 0 the head should be observed, and see if
the fine strands can be seen.

2.—Examine the lettering, the title of the
bank, or the round handwriting on the face of
the note. On all genuine bills, the work is done
with great skill and perfectness, and there has
never been a counterfeit but was defective in the

lettering.

3.— he imprint, or engraver’s name. By
observing the great erfection of the different
com any names—int e evenness and shape of
the ne letters, counterfeiters never get the im-
print erfect. This rule alone, if strictly observ-
ed, w111 detect every counterfeit note in exist-
ence.

4.——-T'he shading in the back- ground of the
vignette, or over or around the letters forming
the name of the bank, on a good bill is even
and perfect, on a counterfeit is irregular and
imperfect.

5.-—Examine well the figures 011 the other
parts of the note, containing the denomination,
also the letters. Examine well the die work
around the figures which stand for the denomin-
ation, to see if it is of the same character as that
which forms the ornamental work surround-
mg 1t.

6.-—Never take a bill that is deficient in any
of the above points, and if your impression is
bad when you first see it, you had better be
careful how you become convinced to change
your mind—whether our opinion is not altered
as you become con used in looking into the
texture of the workmanship of the bill.

7.——Examine the name of the State, name of
the bank, and name of the town where it is
located. If it has been altered from a broken
bank, the defects can plainly be seen, as the
alteration will show that it has been stamped on.

COURT PLASTER, Substitute or.—Take
half a dozen pigs’ feet, well cleaned or cooking,
and boil to a jelly of say about half apint or
less—then spread with a brush on any waste
scraps of silk, and we find it equal to any ad-
hesive plaster we have ever used. Any fatty
substance in the boiling of the feet rises to the
surface, and when cold can easily be removed.
One of its chief excellencies is, that it costs
nothing but the trouble of reparing.

CRA Y ONS.—I. Shell ac, 6 parts; spirit, 4
parts; turpentine, 2 parts; color, 12 parts;
pale clay, 12 parts. Mix.—2. Pipe-clay, color
asrequired, water to mix. Form into a stiff
paste and roll it into crayons.

CRA YONS, Lit/zogmp/zic.—I. Take white
wax, 4parts; gum lac, 2 parts. Melt over a
gentle fire, then add dry tallow soap in shavings,
Zparts. Stir until dissolved. Next add white
‘ tallow, 2 parts; copal varnish, I part; lamp-
black,.r part. Mix well, and continue the heat
and stirring until, on trial by cooling a little, it

 

appears of a proper quality, which should be
that it will bear cutting to a fine point, and trace
delicate lines without breaking—2. Take dry
white tallow soap, 6 parts; white wax, 6parts;
lampblack, I art. Fuse in a covered vessel.—
3. Take lamp lack, I part; tallow soap, 2parts ;
shell lac, 2 parts; wax, 4 parts. Mix, with heat,
and mold.——4. Take dried tallow soap, 5 parts;
wax, 4 parts; lampblack, I part. Mix as before.

CRA YON COLORS, To le.—Paste your
paper on canvas, in a frame, in the usual way,
then brush over the back two or three times
with the following mixture, and when the last
coat is dry give the face of the picture one or two
coats in the same way. This will make it re
semble an oil painting. Spirits of turpentine,
10 parts; boiled oil, 6 parts. Mix.

CR UCIBLES.——The best crucibles are made
from a pure fire-clay, mixed with finely ground
cement of old crucibles, and a portion of black
lead, or graphite; some pounded coke may be
mixed with the plumbago. The clay should be
prepared in a similar way as for making pottery
ware; the vessels, after being formed, must be
slowly dried, and then properly baked in the
kiln. Black-lead crucibles are made of 2 parts
graphite, and I of fire-clay, mixed with water
into a paste, pressed in molds, and well dried,
but not baked hard in the kiln. This compound
forms excellent small or portable furnaces.

DARA’ PLACE, To Illuminate. — By the
use of a mirror to throw a reflection of the sun’s
rays down a deep, dark well, the bottom is
clearly seen, and a lost bucket or other object
hooked up. The same means may be applied
to light adark garret, cellar or closet. I there
are obstacles preventing success with one glass,
take two glasses, one to receive the direct rays
of the sun and the other the reflected rays from
the mirror.

DEAD ANI/l/ALS, To Preserve in Water
Containing Creosote. —In order to preserve dead
animals, nothing is necessary but to put them
in creosote water prepared by shaking coal-tar
creosote with water. According to the size of
the animal the immersion should continue one
to several weeks. In very large animals it is
better to open the skin by a cut, which is not
necessary in birds, fishes, or reptiles; they are
then dried in the open air, and a position given
to them, such as they are wanted to assume.
As the bodies remain elastic after drying, they
may be packed without much precaution. This
process is especially applicable to the above
named three classes of animals, as the feathers
of birds retain their color, fishes and reptiles
their shape and color also. This is a valuable
hint to travelers and naturalists, as the creosote
water may be prepared when and wherever
wanted, and the animals after drying may be
packed in boxes like minerals.

DOG SKIN, To Tan wit/z Hair on.—Pro-
cure a cask, or barrel, holding from fifteen to
eighteen gallons, in which make a liquor of six
gallons of water, one and ahalf pounds of alum,
five pounds of salt; in this, soak the skin about
ten hours, or until it is in its original condition.
Then place the skin on a board and carefully
remove all the flesh and grease, finishing by
scraping with a dull knife and rubbing with sand
paper, or better, pumice stone. Add to the
alum and salt liquor six gallons of sour oak or
hemlock liquor, which can be procured of any

462

DICTIONARY OF EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

tanner (or leached from pulverized bark), in
which again place the skin. It will tan in
about two weeks, becoming as soft and pliable
as cloth.

DOOR PLATES (Silver), To Clean.—To
clean silver door plates, use a weak solution of
ammonia in water, a plied with a wet rag. This
wash is equally usefu for silver plate and jewelry.

DRO WNED PERSON, To Raise #12 Body
of.—In a recent failure to recover a body drown-
ed in a river in New-Jersey, a French Canadian
undertook the job, and is reported to have pro-
ceeded after the following scientific manner.
Having supplied himself with some glass gallon
jars and a quantity of unslaked lime, he went in
a boat to the place where the man was seen to
go down. One of the jars was filled half full of
lime, then filled up with water and tightly corked.
It was then dropped into, the water, and soon
after exploded at the bottom of the river with a
loud report. After the third trial, each time in a
difl'erent place, the body arose to the surface
and was secured. ‘

DWELLINGS, Damp.-—It is obvious that,
as all external walls are exposed to more or less
wet weather, our efforts will be most usefully
directed to preventing the moisture from entering
at the outer face of- the wall; or, if we can not
prevent its enetrating the surface, then we must
apply ourse ves to hindering its passage quite
through the wall.

The use of materials which have a very hard
face, such as the best sorts of building-stones
and bricks, especially machine-made bricks, will,
if the joints of the work are well “pointed,” that
is, filled with mortar, keep out moisture effectu-
ally; but when bricks of a porous quality are of
necessity used, it is often the best safeguard to
“render” the walls with Portland cement. It is
important to notice that not only the face but the
top of every wall must be protected. It is to
keepthe wet from soaking into the body of the
wall, that every window has a sill of hard stone
or some other impervious material, and that all
parapets or other unprotected walls require a
copmg.

With materials that are not naturally imper-
vious, many attempts have been made to arrive
at some mode of rendering them so. Perhaps oil,
when applied thoroughly and in dry weather,
may be said to be as yet the only application
which extensive experience has pronounced suc-
cessful, though a wash of soap and alum has been
frequently found useful. -

If the surface is once passed, the thicker the
wall, the longer it is in being thoroughly soaked,
and the less wet will penetrate it from short
rains; but almost the thickest solid wall will
sooner or later give passage to continuous moist-
ure if its outer face be once penetrated; and
experience has constantly shown that a hollow
wall is drier than a solid wall of the same thick-
ness. When building in stone, it is especially
desirable to have an inner lining of brick, with
a clear space of from two to four inches between
it and the wall, and as few solid points of contact
between the two as possible.

In some cases, contact between the outer and
inner wall can be almost entirely prevented by
connecting them together with iron cramps.
When this is not done, the greatest care must
be taken to reduce the oints of connection to
aminimum, to employ lard materials at those

 

points, and even to break the continuity of the
communication by leaving those bricks which
are used as ties clear at both ends. It is almost
needless to add that the cavit must be kept
clear of mortar and rubbish. A ess perfect mode
of preventing anno ance from damp than by
building hollow wal s, but a favorite expedient,
is to “batten” the inner face of the wall; that is
to say, to place strips of wood against it, cover
them with laths, and plaster on the lathing. By
this means‘e inner face next the room is usu-
ally preserved from the actual appearance of moist-
ure ; bu't as it is possible that the whole wall
behind the battening, if solid, may be moist all
the time, this is an inferior method to the hollow
wall. For very exposed situations, or very po-
rous materials, a combination of the two, that is,
a hollow wall, battened in addition, is to be re-
commended.

Where moisture is at all likely to enter from
the ground on which a house stands, it is most
desirable to cut off the foot of the wall from all
communication with the upper part by a “damp
course,” composed either of slate laid in cement,
or of some sort of asphalt or coal-tar, or of vitri-
fied tiles made for the purpose; and this should
go quite through the external walls, (in damp
soils it should be used also in internal walls,)
below the level of the lowest floor. Where earth
comes against the walls to any extent, it is de-
sirable to have either an open area, or what is
called a “dry area,” to prevent its actually
touching the walls ; and in wet soils an inter—
cepting drain outside that area will also be of
servrce.

In good buildings, it is often customary to
cover the whole surface of the earth under all
floors with a layer of concrete or asphalt, or some
other hard body; and this, no doubt, promotes
the dryness of the building to a great extent.
Solid floors, that is, floors of stone, tile, or brick,
should always be laid on a pretty thick layer of
concrete or dry rubbish, not direct on the earth.

Forming a dry area around the walls is fre-
quently a serviceable remedy where the lower
part of a house is damp, and draining the site is
often of very great service. So, in many cases,
is the taking up the lowest floor, removing a foot
or two of earth, covering the fresh surface with
concrete, and relaying the floor, leaving good
ventilating channels for the air space so formed.

A very fertile source of dampness is “drip.”
Even the small amount of rain-water falling on
a window, and which, after draining down, final.
1 drips from the window-sill, has a great ten»
dency to render the wall immediately below that
sill damp; for whenever the wind blows toward
the wall, every drop is likely to be blown against
its surface. This, by the by, shows the folly of
our making the wall immediately under window-
sills thinner than elsewhere, which it is custom-
ary to do for convenience’ saken .

The drip from a roof not furnished With a gut-
ter, or from a veranda that is too shallow, or,
worst of all, from a defective rain-water pipe, IS,
however, larger in quantity, and more exposed
to wind than that from a simple window-Sill ;
and this source of dampness often remains for a
long time undetected, as the place where the
water falls against the wall wil often be distant
from that where it escapes.

As a general rule, it may be laid down that
there is no auxiliary so powerful in diminishing

MISCELLANEOUS.

463

 

the amount of such moisture as can not be actu-
ally shutout from any part of a building, as a
free circulation of air. Let, therefore, openings
communicating with the cavities and vacant spa.
ces of a house be freely provided. The hollow
space in a roof, the space between floor and ceil-
ing, and the hollow under a floor, should all en-
joy a free circulation of air. It is even desirable,
in building hollow walls, to attempt to promote
a circulation of air in the cavity, and in all these
cases it should be remembered that two openings
are requisite to each hollow, in order to give
much hope of a current or change ofair. Where
there is no ventilation under the lowest floor of
a house, the joists and timbers will soon begin
to decay. This may be accelerated by covering
the floor with oil-cloth, or kamptulicon, or simi-
lar non-porous coverings. Ivy or creepers against
external walls, and even trees growing close to
them, tend to promote moisture by cutting off
the circulation of air.

The failure of any portion of the arrangements
for water supply or drainage will be pretty sure
to lead to damp. As general rules, no drain
should ever be permitted to pass under any part
of a dwelling house; and when this can not be
prevented, the drain should be so laid, without
being covered up with earth, that every part of
it which is under the floor of the house can be
reached at once. The water pipes, on the other
hand, should be kept well Within the house for
warmth’s sake, and where they leave it, should
be at a level of not less than three feet, at the
least, below the surface, for protection against
frost. When practicable, water pipes should be
left where they can be seen and got at. Iron
is preferable to lead for their material, and the
arrangements should always include the means of
shutting off water supplies in very frosty weather.

It is wise to try to select a wet day for looking
over a house, for if the day be fine, and the
weather dry, damp spots as well as many other
defects may be easily overlooked. Let the in-
tending tenant look for the existence of damp
courses, dry areas, and ventilation under floors;
let him avoid a ground floor that is not a little
raised above the earth outside, unless he is sure
there is a good cavity under it well ventilated.

In one word, in choosing a house in which a
man intends himself and his family to live, and
particularly on first moving into a new built
residence, he should look out for the indications
of damp as pointing out the presence of one of
the most serious enemies to the comfort, if not
to the continuance, of their life, which he can
have to encounter.

_ EARTH CLOSET, Thu—The earth closet
is the invention of the Rev. Henry Moule, of
Fordington Vicarage, Dorsetshire, England.

It is based on the power of clay and the de-
composed organic matter found in the soil to
absorb and retain all offensive odors and all fer-
tilizmg matters; and it consists, essentially, of
a_ mechanical contrivance (attached to the or-
dinary seat) for measuring out and discharging
into. the vault or pan below a sufficient quantity
of Sifted dry earth to entirely cover the solid
ordure and to absorb the urine.

_The discharge of earth is effected by an or-
dinary pull-up similar to that used in the water
closet, or (in the self-acting ap aratus) by the

rising of the seat when the weig t of the person
is removed.

 

The vault or pan under the seat is so arranged
that the accumulation may be removed at pleas-
ure.

From the moment when the earth is discharged
and the evacuation is covered, all offensive ex-
halation entirely ceases. Under certain circum-
stances there may be at times a slight odor _as_ of
guano mixed with earth; but this is so trifling
and so local that a commode arranged on this
plan may, without the least annoyance, be kept
in use in any room. .

In the making of an earth closet all that is
necessary is to have a supply of coarsely sifted
sun-dried earth with which to cover the bottom
of the vessel to be used, and after use to cover
the deposit. A small box of earth and a tin
scoop are sufficient to prevent the gravest annoy-
ance of the sick-room. But, of course, for con-
stant use it is desirable to have a more convenient
apparatus,——something which requires less care,
and is less troublesome in man ' ways.

To this end the patented invention of Mr.
Moule is applicable. This comprises a tight
receptacle under the seat, a reservoir for storing
dry earth, and an apparatus to measure out
the' requisite quantity and throw it upon the
de osit.

arth alone is proved to be the best deodorizer,
and far superior to any disinfectants; but where
it is difficult to obtain earth abundantly, sifted
ashes may be mixed with it in proportion of two
of earth to one of ashes.

As the first requirement is dry earth sifted, and
as this is usually thought to be a great difficulty
in the way oftlie adoption ofthe dry earth system,
the following remarks will at once remove such
an impression:—

The earth commode and closet, if used by six
persons daily, will require on an average about
one hundred-weight of earth per week. This
may be dried for family use in a drawer made to
fit under the kitchen range, and which may be
filled with earth one morning and left until the
next. The drawer should reach to within two
inches of the bottom bar of the grate. A frame
with a handle, covered with fine wire netting,
forming a kind of shovel, should be placed on
this drawer; the finer ashes will fall through,
mixing with the earth, whilst the Cinders will
remain on the top, to be from time to time
thrown on the fire.

The earth used in the earth closet must be dry
—as dry as it is possible to keep it by protection
from rain, dew, and mist. However dry it may
be made by artificial means, it will absorb the
hygrometric moisture of the atmosphere, which
could be excluded only by hermetical sealing.
This amount of moisture, which is not perceptible
to the sight or touch, in no way interferes with
its efficiency. But it must be air-dry, or it will
not fully accomplish its purpose.

The best and cheapest drying apparatus is the
sun and wind of a summer day. During a
drought the parched surface of naked land is in
precisely the condition needed for use, and a
year’s supply may then be taken into a close
out-building or a dry cellar, and stored until
wanted.

Those who have not made, or cannot make,
this rovision, may store damp earth in a well-
venti ated lace, from which mists can be ex-
cluded, and, in a longer or shorter time, accordin
to the climate, it will become dry—just as bread

464

t

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

so kept would do. The writer has had a com-
mode in constant use for nine months, and nearly
all of his winter’s supply of earth has been dried
and re-dried in a hogshead lying on its side, its
open end—facing the south—being protected
from rain and mist by a close screen of rough
boards leaning against it. The sun had very
little chance at it, but the wind had, and the
drying has been sufficiently rapid for such a limi-
ted supply as is needed for one commode.

At the experimental station of the United
States Engineers (at Fort Adams) there is in use
a sort of hot-bed, raised a little from the ground
with a board floor, and provided with movable
sashes battened at the joints. The earth is
thrown loosely in to a depth of about six inches,
and whenever a drying wind blows, the sashes
are raised at both ends. In damp weather they
are kept close, and when the sun shines, without
there being much wind, they are raised at the
back only enough to allow the escape of the
moisture evaporated. This plan is cheap, simple,
and perfectly effective. '

To dry the earth in a more systematic way,
especially for the supply of towns or large fac-
tories, it will be necessar , particularly in win-
ter, to employ the aid 0 fire heat. The scale
on which this is to be done must determine the
extent of the appliances for the purpose. Earth
enough for the use of a family may be dried in
a shallow box near the furnace, or the kitchen
stove or range. For the supply of larger estab-
lishments or for towns, when the requisite_quan-
tity of earth has not been stored in the summer,
it will be well to use a drying apparatus similar
to one erected for the supply of a number of
Closets in New Haven.

This is a plate % inch boiler iron—condemned
for other use—set on brick walls high enough to
allow a small stove to be placed under it, the
pipe or flue running from the stove, which is in
the front of the space, to an opening at the rear.
The earth is spread upon the plate a few inches
deep, and is very rapidly made ready for use.

In the country, where earth is plenty, and
where there is use on the farm or in the garden
for the manure, it will be best to compost the
accumulation of the closet until required for use,
and to supply the closet with fresh earth; not
because it is more effective than that which has
been several times used, but because it is better
to have the manure as bulky as possible for ease
of even distribution. But in towns, and in all
cases in which the manure has to be transported
to a distance, making it desirable that it be as
concentrated as possible, the same earth should
be used over and over again. It has been dem-
onstrated that the same earth may be used six
or seven times over, until it becomes equal to
Peruvian guano in richness, without losing its
efficiency as a deodorizer.

Earth owes its deodorizing power to both its
clay and its decomposed organic matter, and—
as in the case of the soil of an old garden which
has been heavily manured for many years—the
manure itself, when thoroughly decomposed,
only adds to the disinfecting strength of the
earth, b adding to its humus. In fact, instances
are cite in which the same earth has passed ten
times through the closet, receiving at each use
an addition to its manurial value. Of course in
time the limit will be passed, and the pre on-
derance of organic matter will tell on the e ect,

 

so that it is found in most cases that more than
six or seven uses are enough to reduce the de-
odorizing effect.

When the earth is removed from the closet or
the commode, it should be emptied into a barrel,
a cask, or a bin, in a sheltered but vrell venti-
lated place. Here it will soon so far decompose
that all traces of paper and of solid faces will
disappear, and it wil be to a considerable extent
dried. It should now be worked over with a
shovel or a rake until its parts are perfectly
mixed, and it may then be dried by natural or
artificial means, as circumstances suggest, and
prepared for another use. Until the decomposi-
tion of the foreign matters has become complete,
it is better that the mass be kept in a compact
body; after that, the more it can be spread the
more rapidly will it dry, though it will in time
become dry in the barrel or bin.

In the case of fixed closets holding athree
months’ supply, it is hardly necessary to resort
to any artificial means of drying, nor even to any
manipulation. The accumulation in the vault
or box must be leveled oil” with a rake from time
to time, and this will sufficiently mix the earth
and faeces.

In such cases it would be the best arrange-
ment to have two bins, equal in size to the ca-
pacity of the reservoir and of the vault of the
closet; these may be in a shed connected with
a privy. One of the bins and the reservoir above
the hopper being filled with sifted dry earth,
and the other bin with freshly collected earth,
we go on and use out the supply in the reser-
voir. In three months it has all passed into the
vault and is mixed with faeces. We now fill the
reservoir with contents of the first bin, and put
the contents of the vault in its place. When the
reservoir is again empty, the earth that was
freshly collected and moist six months before is
dry and fit to be sifted into the reservoir, the
bin from which it is taken being filled from the
vault. When the reservoir has been again emp-
tied, the first clearing of the vault will have had
six months to become dry, and may be sifted
and used. If the same earth is used six times
over, the original supply will last four years and
a half, at the end of which time it will be worth
fully fifty dollars per ton as manure.

The quantity of earth that it is necessary. to
supply will depend on the frequency with which
the closet is used, and on the quantity of earth
that it is made to contain. The writer has,
without other facilities for drying than those
described above, found four barrels to be sufficient
for a commodeconstantly used bythree persons.

Under the arrangement discussed above, with
a reservoir and two bins, each holding a three
months’ supply for a family of ten persons,
each receptacle would require a capacity equal
to that of a cube of three and a half feet, which
would give an abundant supply for all emergen-
cies. These receptacles once being filled, no
more earth would be needed for from four tofive
years. All that would be required would be
that four times a year the earth be sifted, and
that occasionally the contents of the vault be
leveled off.

By Professor S. W. Johnson’s estimate of the
value of night-soil as manure, this earth, after it
had passed six times through the closet, would
be worth from $200 to $250. Other estimates
would give it a much higher value.

MISCELLANEOUS.

The earth for the closet must not only be dry;
it must be sifted. Up to a certain pomt, the
finer it is the more effective it is. That is, while
it will answer the purpose if it is passed through
a common coal Sifter, it will much better envelop
the deposit, will distribute itself more Widely,
and will make more dust in every part of the
vault (a desirable thing, on account of the ex-
halations from the uncovered fresh faeces), if .it
has been passed through a sieve having 51x
meshes to the inch. The finer the sieve the
more will small pebbles be excluded. These are
objectionable, not only on account of the space
they occupy, but they dilute the earth proper
and do no good.

The best earth is that used for making bricks
or earthenware—that is, a strong clay; but any
soil or subsoil that contains enough clay or
vegetable matter to make it arable will answer
a satisfactory purpose. A very sterile .gravel
and a nearly pure sandy soil should be rejected.
The “mould ’ of an old garden or field is ex-
cellent, and the “yellow dirt” below it is still
better. Either of these treated as above de-
scribed will be found to entirely absorb and
destroy the odor of the most offensive faeces
from the moment when it envelops it until,
years afterwards, if necessary, it is removed to
the field; so that the earth-closet may be in the
house or out of the house, as is most convenient,
without considering the question of foul odors or
of ventilation.

Wood ashes must under no circumstances be
used, as the potash that they contain has the
effect of driving off the volatile parts of the
deposit. Anthracite coal ashes can be used with
perfect success in winter, and probably in sum-
mer as well, but we cannot say this positively.
We can see no reason why the ashes of bitumin-
ous coal may not be equally effective, but Mr.
Moule recommends that they be mixed with
one-half their bulk of earth.

All ashes are objectionable for use in com-
modes in the house, from the dust that flies when
they are put into the hopper; but in the case of
fixed closets this difficulty would not be noticed.
On shipboard, especially on steam-ships, where
water-closets are always a nuisance, the use of
ashes would be entirely successful.

The earth-closet, like all other human contriv-
ances, needs attention. The earth in the vault
will not deodorize the fouling of the seat; wet
earth will not deodorize the faeces that it covers;
and if the accumulation is not occasionallyleveled,
the earth will not be so thrown as to entirely
cover recent deposits. These things must be
looked to, but they require no more attention
than does the care of the water-closet; and, if the
needed attention is given, the depressing odor
that so often accompanies even the est-arranged

" water-closets will be entirely unknown, while the

full convenience of having accommodations in the
house, and even in the sick-room, may be better
and much more cheaply attained by the aid of the
earth-closet than by that of the water-closet.
EBONY, To Imitatr.+Ebony can be imi-
tated by using a dye of logwood, galls, and
sul hate or acetate of iron; but it will always
loo dull and unnatural unless rightly polished,
when it will come out a most brilliant, shiny
black. It is done in this way: Put the dyed or
finished article in the lathe, turn a great speed,
and while in revolution, firmly and evenly press

 

46s

the siliceous rind of bamboo or a hard wood
burnisher a inst the article, and continue the
operation ti 1 all the grain is reduced into a.
smooth gloss surface. The bamboo is best, it
is so unyiel ing and hard in texture. Smooth
flat work, not adapted to a lathe, must be rubbed
till a polish is obtained.

EGGS, To Color. «Eggs are colored variously,
thus: A dark rosewood color by pouring half a
gallon of boiling water upon from one quarter to
one eighth of a pound of logwood chips. This
makes the dye; put the eggs therein and let them
boil for one hour. You will have a hard boiled
egg, but the color will be beautiful. To vary the
color or to write a name on the egg, drop melted
beeswax on the shell of the egg in the attern

ou want it; then put the egg into the ye and
cave it as above. When you take it out scrape
off the wax and beneath it the shell will be all
white, the rest of it will be dyed. For a faint
ellow color onion skins will do, used like the
ogwood. To increase the color wrap some of
the onion skins around the egg and leave it in
the dye. The skins must be fastened of course.
By onion skins we mean the dry, yellow outside
skin of the onion. A good effect is also got by
taking a piece of nicely figured calico, putting it
neatly around the egg and then allowing it to
remain either in the onion skin or logwood dye
pot. The figure in the calico generally comes
out and fixes itself in the egg shell. Variations
of color may be had by using any of the vegetable

63.

yEGGS ( W/zz'te (3)"), To Prereme.—There are
several ways of preserving albumen; one is by
drying it at a low temperature (otherwise it coa-
gulates) and then powdering it, when it is al-
ways ready for solution. The second is a preserv-
ative like carbolic acid, (phenylic alcohol,) when
there are no objections to its odor. Otherwise,
5 per cent. of sulphite of soda (not sulphate) will
accomplish the same purpose, and give an odor-
less and almost tasteless preparation.

' EGGS OFPHARA OH’S SERPENTS, To
Mata—Take mercury and disso ve it in moder-
ately dilute nitric acid by means of heat, takin
care, however, that there be always an excess 0
metallic mercury remaining; decant the solution
and pour it into a solution of sulpho-cyanide of
ammonium or potassium, which may be bought
at a good drug store, or of a dealer in chemicals.
Equal weights of both will answer. A precipitate
wi 1 fall to the bottom of the beaker or jar, which
is to be collected on a filter and washed two or
three times with water, when it is put in a warm
place to dry. Take for every pound of this.
material one ounce of gum tragacanth which has
been soaked in hot water. When the gum is
completely softened it is to be transferred to a
mortar, and the pulverized and dried precipitate
gradually mixed with it by means of a little water,
so as to present a somewhat dry pill; mass, from
which by hand pellets of the desired size are
formed, put on a piece of glass, and dried again;
they are then ready for use.

EMBALMING, Franc/z fl!et/20a’.—The fol—
lowing is M. Gannal’s mixture for injecting the
carotid artery, whereby all the purposes of em-
balming are attained z—Take dry sulphate of
alumine, I kilogramme, (equal 2 lbs. 3 oz. 5drs.
avoirdupois,) dissolved in half a litre (a little less
than a pint) of warm water, and marking 32° of
the aerometer. Three or four litres of this mix-

30

466

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DA Y WANTS.

 

ture will be sutiicient to inject all the vessels of
the human body, and will preserve it in the
summer; in the winter, from rone to two litres
will be enough. But to keep away insects, there
should be added to the above chlorure of copper,
at the rate of too grammes to a kilogramme of
the sulphate of alumine ; or else 0 grammes of
arsenious acid. This applies to 1 kinds of ani-
mals, birds, fishes, etc., as well as to the human
subject. The above process has been introdu-
ced into the great anatomical schools in Paris;
and in nearly all the recent interments of dis-
tinguished individuals, the old and revolting
mode of embalming has been superseded by this
new and simple method.

ENAMELS.—Transparent or opaque sub-
stances, usually formed of glass colored with
metallic oxides, and applied in a thin stratum to
brightly polished metallic surfaces, (copper or
gold,) on which the are fused by the flame of a
lamp urged by the blow-pipe, or by the heat of
a small furnace, and in cooling form a sortof
vitreous varnish. The art of enameling acquired
the greatest perfection in ancient times, and very
beautiful specimens are still preserved, which
the modems are unable to equal, and with the
materials of which they are totally unacquainted.
At-the present day, this pleasing and useful ap-
plication of human industry is carried on with
the greatest success by the Venetians, and, after
them, by the French. The limits of this work
will not permit a description of the various ope-
rations of enameling, which essentially depend
on skillful manipulation; a knowledge of which
can only be obtained by long practice. {The pre-
paration of enamels being, however, entirely de-
pendent on chemistry, I deem it proper to re-
sent the following formulae to the reader. t is
nevertheless right to remark, that almost every
artist has his own receipts.

The basis of all enamels is a highly transpa-
rent and fusible glass, which readily receives a
color on the addition of metallic oxides. As this
is required in the preparation of many of those
that follow, it i placed first.

ENAAIEL , Bare orFluxfar.—-I. Red lead
16 parts; calcined borax 3 parts; powdered flint
glass 12 parts ; powdered flints 4 parts ; fuse in
a. Hessian crucible for 12 hours, then pour it out
into water, and reduce it to a powder in a biscuit-
ware mortar. '

2. Powdered flints IO parts; nitre and white
arsenic, of each I part; as last.

3. Flint glass 3 oz. ; red lead I oz. ; as last.

4. Red lead I8 parts ; borax (not calcined)
II parts; flint glass I6 parts; as last.

5. Flint glass 6 parts; flux No. 2 (above) 4
parts ; red lead 8 parts; as last.

6. Tin 2 to 5 parts; lead 10 parts ; calcine in
an iron pot at a dull cherry-red heat, and scrape
off the oxide as it forms, observing to obtain it
quite free from undecom osed metal; when
enough of the dross is obtained, reduce it to fine
powder by grinding and elutriation, then mix 4
parts of this powder with an equal weight of
pure sand or powdered‘ flints, and I of sea salt,
or other alkaline matter, fuse the mixture in a
Hessian crucible, and proceed as before. The
best proportions of the tin and lead, for all or-
dinary purposes, are about 3 of the former to to
of the latter. The calcined mixed oxides are
commonly called “calcine.”

7. Lead and tin, equal parts; calcine as above;

 

and take of the mixed oxides, or calcine and
ground flints, of each I part; pure subcarbonate
of potash 2 parts; as before.

. Lead 30 parts; tin 33 parts; calcine as be-
fore, then mix 50 parts of the calcine with an
equal weight of flints, in powder, and I lb. of
salts of tartar; as before. A fine dead white
enamel.

Remarks. The precise qualities of the pro-
ducts of the above processes depend greatly upon
the duration and degree of heat employed. By
increasing the quantity of sand, glass, or flux,
the enamel is rendered more fusible, and the
opacity and whiteness is increased by the addi-
tion of oxide of tin. The use of borax should
be avoided, or used very sparingly, as it is apt
to make the enamel eflioresce and lose color.

ENAMELS, Blacks—I. Pure clay 3 parts;
pfotloxide of iron I part; mix and fuse. A fine

ac r.

2. Calcined iron (protoxide) 12 parts; oxide
of cobalt I part; mix and add an equal weight
of white flux.

3. Peroxide of manganese 3 parts; zafl‘re I
part; mix and add it as required to white flux.

ENAMELS, Blue.--I. Either of the fluxes
colored with oxide of cobalt.

2. Sand, red lead, and nitre, of each IO parts;
flint glass or ground flints 20 parts; oxide of
cobalt I part, more or less, the quantity wholly
depending on the depth of color required.

NAMELS, Brown.——-I. Red lead and
calcined iron, of each 1 part; antimony, litharge,
and sand, of each 2 parts; mix and add it in any
required proportion to a flux, according to the
color desired. A little oxide of cobalt or zaffre is,
frequently added, and alters the shade of brown.

2. Manganese 5 parts; red lead I6 parts; flint
powder 8 parts; mix.

3. Manganese 9 parts; red lead 34 parts; flint
powder 16 parts.

ENAMELS, Green-I. Flux 2 lbs. ; black
oxide of copper I oz. ; red oxide of iron % dr. ;
mm.

2. As above, but use the red oxide of copper.
Less decisive.

3. Copper dust and litharge, of each 2 02.;
nitre I 02. ; sand 4 02.; flux as much as
required. -

4. Add oxide of chrome to a suflicient quantity
of flux to produce the desired shade; when well
managed, the color is superb, and will stand a
very great heat; but in common hands, it fre—
quently turns on the dead-leaf tinge.

5. Transparent flux 5 oz. ; black oxide of cop-
per '2 scruples; oxide of chrome 2 grs. Resem-
bles the emerald.

6. Mix blue and yellow enamel in the requir-
ed proportions.

ENAMELS, Olive.—Good blue enamel 2
parts; black and yellow do., of each I part;
mix. (See also BROWN ENAMELS.)
ENAMELS, 0mnge.—I. Red lead 12 parts;
red sulphate of iron and oxide of antimony, of
each I part; flint powder 3 parts; calcine, pow-
der, and melt with flux, 50 parts.

2. Red lead 12 parts; oxide of antimony4
parts; flint powder 3 parts; red sulphate of iron
1 part; calcine, then add flux 5 parts to every 2
parts of this mixture. _

ENAMELS, Purple.—-I. Flux colored With
oxide of gold, purple precipitate of cassius, or
peroxide of manganese.

MISCELLANEO US.

2. Sulphur, nitre, vitriol, antimony, and oxide
of tin, of each I lb. ; red lead 60 lbs. ; mix and
fuse, cool and powder; add rose copper 19 oz. ;
zafl're I 02.; crocus martis 1% 02.; borax 3 02.;
and I lb. of a compound formed of gold, silver,
and mercury; fuse, stirring the melted mass
with a copper rod all the time, then place it in
crucibles, and submit them to the action of a
reverberatory furnace for 24 hours.

This is said to be the purple enamel used in
the mosaic pictures of St. Peter’s at Rome.

EiVA/lIELS, Rat—I. Sulphate of iron
acalcined dark) I part; a mixture of 6 parts of

ux (4) and I of colcothar, 3 parts; dark red.

2. Red sulphate of iron 2 parts; flux (No. I)
6 parts; white lead 3 parts; light red.

3. Paste or flux colored with the red or pro-
toxide of copper. Should the color pass into
the green or brown, from the partial peroxidi2e~
ment of the cop er, from the heat being raised
too high, the re color may be restored by the
addition of any carbonaceous matter, as tallow,
or charcoal.

4. The most beautiful and costly red, inclin-
ing to the purple tinge, is produced by tinging
glass or flux with the oxide or salts of gold, or
with the urple precipitate of cassius, which
consists 0 go d and tin. In the hands of the
skillful artist, any of these substances produce
shades of red of the most exquisite hue: when
most perfect, the enamel comes from the fire
quite colorless, and afterwards receives its rich
hue from the flame of a candle or lamp, urged
by the blowpipe.

ENAMELS, Rare‘Colorei—Purple enamel,
or its elements, 3 parts; flux 90 parts; mix and
add silver-leaf, or oxide of silver, I part or less.

ENAM’ELS, T ramparmt.——Either of the
fluxes, exce t the last three.

ENA/ll LS, Violet—Saline or alkaline frits
or fluxes colored with small quantities of per-
oxide of manganese. As the color depends on
the metal being at the maximum of oxidation, con-
tact with all substances that would abstract any
of its oxygen should be avoided. The same
remarks a ply to other metallic oxides.

ENA ELS, Wilda—t. Calcine (from two
parts of tin and I part of lead calcined together)
I part; fine crystal or frit 2 parts; a very trifling
quantity of manganese; powder, mix, melt, and
pour the fused mass into clean water; dry, pow-
der, and again fuse, and repeat the whole process
3 or 4times, observing to avoid contamination
with smoke, dirt, or oxide of iron. A fine dead
white.

2. Washed diaphoretic antimony I part; fine
glass (perfectl free from lead) 3 parts; mix, and
proceed as be ore. Very fine.

For white enamel, the articles must be per-
fectly free from foreign admixture, as this would
impart a color. When well managed, either of
the above forms will produce a paste that will
rival the opal.

£1th [ME/25, Yellow—Red lead 8 oz. ; oxide
of antimony and tin, calcined together, of each
1 02.; mix and add flux (No. 4) 15 02.; mix
and fuse. By varying the proportion of the in-
gredients, various shades may be produced.

2. Lead, tin ashes, litharge, antimony, and
sand, of each I 02. ; nitre 4 02.; mix, fuse, and

. powder; and add the product to any quantity of
flux according to the color required.

3. White oxide of antimony, alum, and 531

 

 

 

467

ammoniac, of each I part; ure carbonate of
lead I to 3 parts, as require ; all in powder;
mix, and ex ose to a heat sufficiently high to
decom se the sal ammoniac. Very bright.

4. lux fused with oxide of lead, and a little
red oxide of iron.

5. Pure oxide of silver added to the metallic
fluxes. The salts of silver are also used, but are
difficult to manage. If a thin film of oxide of
silver be spread over the surface of the enamel
to be colored, ex osed to a moderate heat, then
withdrawn, and t e film of reduced silver on the
surface removed, the part under will be found
tinged of a fine yellow. '

Superior yellow enamels are less ea511y pro-
duced than most other colors; they require but
little flux, and that mostly of a metallic nature.

ENAMELING WOOD WORK—We have
very considerable doubts as to whether polished.

aint may be considered in good taste when used
or the interiors of drawing rooms, or, in fact, of
any room. There is a want of repose, and a
garishness about gloss colors, which are scarcely
compatible with that quietness and repose so
necessary to the perfect satisfaction of the edu-
cated eye. Polished glass is beautiful, and never
out of place; the same may be said of marble, of
gems, and of all steel work or instruments. With
all these, polish is the one thing needful to de-
velop their beauty and finish, and, in fact, is a.
necessity of the material. This is so self~evident
that we never for a moment doubt its propriety
or imagine it would be better otherwise. Fitness,
beauty, and utility are a consequence of the
polish in all these cases, and therefore proper and
right from every point of view; but the same
reasoning will not apply to polished paint, that
is to sa , plain tints of colors. Of course, imita-
tions 0 woods and marbles may be polished with
propriety and without offense to good taste,
simply because we expect to see them so, and
they would not be finished if left unvarnished
and unpolished. But it is otherwise with plain
colors, which, when glossy, have too much the
look of the japanner’s shop or the tea tray busi-
ness. These remarks apply principally to that
so-called enamel work which is produced by
merely painting the work and finishing it with
varnish, when, as a matter of course, it very
soon becomes discolored; and even when first
done it is a mistake in name and execution, and
a gross offense against good taste. The best
enamel work—of which there is but little done
in consequence of its great cost—is free, in some
measure, from the objections urged against the
common work. Its manipulation requires so
much patience and care that it is a ver diflicult
matter to find men who have the qua ifications
requisite for preparing such fine work, and there-
fore it is very rare tosee a really good job. In
getting up enamel work, much care is requisite
in the selection and use of the material required.
The filling-up color, which forms the body of the
enamel, is of the greatest importance to the
ultimate success of the work. Of this material
there are several kinds manufactured—black,
brown, and yellow, for coach painters, japanners,
and others; but for use in interior decoration we
prefer to use the white lead filling, as we can, by
adding the necessary staining colors (which do
not affect the properties of the enamel), form a.
solid body of color of the same tint, or nearly so,
as that with which the work is required to be

468

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

finished, and thus do away with— the objections
which may be urged against the black or dark-
colored filling. For it will be evident to the
plainest comprehension that if work which has
to be finished white, or with very light tints of
color, be filled up with dark-colored filling, that
the number of coats of paint which will be re-
quired to obscure or kill the dark color will be so
many that there will be danger of the work be-
coming rough and uneven in parts——at all events
there can be no question that work which is left
- with a smooth, even surface, produced by rubbing
alone, must be much finer in texture than any
that can possibly be left by the brush. The
white lead should be ground stiff in turpen-
tine, and about one fourth part of the ordinary
white lead, ground in oil, added to it, in order
to prevent .the enamel cracking, which it has
a tendency to do, except there be some little
oil mixed with it. A sufiicient quantity of
polishing copal or best carriage varnish should
now be added to bind it so that it will rub down
easily, which fact cannot be properly ascertained
except by actual trial, inasmuch as the drying
properties of varnishes vary, and other causes
influence the matter. If there be too much
varnish in the stuff the work will be exceedingly
difficult to cut down, and if too little, it is apt to
break up in rubbing, so that it is always the
safest plan to try the enamel color before com-
mencing anything important. The color, being
properly mixed, should be laid on the work in
the ordinary manner, using it rather freely. It
may be as well to state here that no filling should
be put upon new work without the same having
had two or three coats of ordinary oil paint, nor
on old work without its having one coat. This
gives a key for the filling to bind to. Successive
coats of the filling should now be laid on the
work until there is a sufficient thickness to cut
down to a level surface, filling up the whole of
the indentations and undulations of the panel.
One day should intervene between each coat, in
order to allow it to harden in some degree.
When a sufficient number of coats is put on
(which number will, of course, depend upon the
state of the work to be filled up), it should stand
for a fortnight or three weeks, until it is thor-
oughly hard; it will then be ready for cutting
down, which is to be done with felt, ground

umice-stone, and water. The felt used should
be such as the marble masons use for polishing
marble, which varies in thickness from one
eighth to half an inch, and about three inches
square. This should be fastened by the aid of
patent knotting or other resinous gum, to square
pieces of wood of the same size, but one inch
thick, so as to give a good hold for the hand in
using. These pieces of wood, covered with felt,
may be made of any size or shape, to fit molded
surfaces or other inequalities. The pumice-stone
to be used should be of different degrees of fine-
ness, and should be carefully selected, so as to
be sure that it is free from any foreign substance.
It is sold ready ground, but in situations where
it cannot be conveniently got, it may be pre-
pared from the lump, by grinding or crushing
with a stone and muller. and then passed through
fine sieves or muslin; by using these of different
degrees of texture the ground pumice may be
produced of different degrees of fineness. Ex-
cept great care be exercised in this matter, it
will be found that particles of grit will be mixed

 

with it, which in using, get on to the work, and
make deep scratches, thus causing endless trouble
and annoyance, besides spoiling the work. The
greatest care is also required in keeping the felt
clean and free from grit. Many workmen are
careless in this matter, and when working set
down the felt on the step-ladder or floor, and
thus particles of sand or grit get upon it, and so
mischief is done.

In cutting down, it is best to use a piece of
soft lum pumice-stone to take off the rough
parts. he felt and ground pumice should now
be used with water, the work should be wet
with a sponge, and the felt soaked in water, and
then into the powdered umice, and the work
rubbed with it, keeping it moderately wet, and
rubbing with a circular motion, and not straight
up and down and across, with a light touch,
using only just as much pressure as will cause
the pumice to bite, which will be very clearly
felt while the hand is in motion. Much care and
patience is required to do this properly, for if
the pressure be too great it forces the pumice
into the body of the filling color, and scratches
it instead of cutting or grinding it fairly down.
No hurry will avail in doing this work; it must
have its time; hurry only defeats the end in
view, and often causes much unnecessary labor.
A scratch, caused by want of care and too much
haste, will often throw the work back for days,
and involve the cost and labor of refilling. We
find in practice that the purpose is best answered
by using the pumice-stone, the coarser kind first,
then the medium, and finishing with the finest
last. It will be found advantageous to let a day
elapse between the rubbing, for when the sur-
face is cut down the filling will in all cases be
softer underneath, and if it be allowed to stand
for a day, the newly exposed surface gets harder,
and of course rubs down better in consequence.
The pumice—stone should be well washed off the
wqu occasionally, in order that we may see
what progress is being made, and if it require
more rubbing or not. If, while in progress, it
be found not to be sufficiently filled up, it may
have one or more coats of filling after it has
been roughly cut down, and before much labor
has been spent upon it.

When sufficiently rubbed down with the pum-
ice-stone—that is to say, when it has been cut
down to a fine, level, and uniform surface, the
work should stand for a day or two to harden.
It will now depend entirely upon the work, as
to whether it must be polished upon the filling,
or whether it will have to be varnished and pol-
ished. If the filling be of the right color, and
has rubbed down of one uniform tint, we prefer
it to be finished in this state, because, in the first
place, it will have a surface and texture which
cannot be got by any other means. Finished in
this state, there is an absence of that glare-polish
—if we may use the term—which is inseparable
from varnish polish. After it has stood a day
or two, the work, if it be intended to be left in
the state we have been speaking about, must be
polished in this wise : Take a clean felt and rot-
ten stone, either in oil or water, and with this
rub the work as before, until the lish begins
to appear; then take a boss (2‘. e. a all of cotton
wool inclosed in fine silk), put the rotten stone
upon this and keep rubbing with the Circular
motion until the polish is uniform and equal all
over. The rotten stone must now be carefully

MISCELLANEOUS.

cleaned off; if it be in oil, clean off with fine
flour; if in water, with sponge and wash leather
and water, taking care not to scratch. A clean
damp chamois or wash leather will now be re-
quired, which must be held in the left hand,
leavin the right perfectly clear. Now use the
ball 0 the right and, press gently upon the
panel, and draw it forwards or towards you. If
this be done properly, it will bring up aclear
polish upon the work. The band should be kept
slightly damp by drawing it across the leather
almost every time the hand is drawn forward.
If this be done effectually, a rustling sound will
be produced while the hand is in motion; if this
be so, the polish will be sure to follow. . The
polish thus produced on the filling alone Will be
of the kind we have spoken of above, and Will
not be at all objectionable to even the most fasti-
dious taste; but if the work has to be finished
with a brilliant luster and to a high degree of
polish, it will, after being cut down with the
pumice and felt, have to be coated with two or
more coats of the best polishing copal varnish,
having a quantity of the best flake white from the
tube; this should be mixed with the varnish in
sufficient quantity to form a creamy mixture,
with which the work must be coated—one, two,
or three coats, as may be desirable. This should
stand for three or four weeks, until it becomes
hard, for the harder it is, the better it will polish.
It must then be cut down with felt and the-finest
ground pumice stone in water, and polished with
the rotten stone, as before described. By this
means a bright and brilliant polish may be ob-
tained, of a very enduring nature. The same
process will of course answer for all varnished
imitations of wood and marbles, and all work
which will admit of the application of oil var-
nishes.

ENGRA Vl/VG in A Ito-Relieve. —In the com-
mon operation of engraving, the desired effect is
produced by making incisions upon the copper-
plate with a steel instrument of an angular shape,
which incisions are filled with printing-ink, and
transferred to the paper by means of a roller,
which is passed over its surface. There is an-
other mode of producing these lines or incisions,
by means of diluted nitrous acid, in which the
impression is taken in the same way. Another
method of engraving is done upon a principle
exactly the reverse, for instead of the subject be-
ing cut into the copper, it is the interstice be-
tween the lines which is removed by diluted aqua-
fortis, and the lines are left as the surface, from
which the impression is taken by means of a
common type-printing press, instead of a copper-
plate press.

This is effected by drawing with common turpen-
tine varnish, covered with lampblack, whatever
is required upon the plate; and when the var-
nish is thoroughly dry, the acid is poured upon
it, and the interstice of course removed by its
action upon the uncovered part of the copper.
If the subject is very full of dark shadows, this
operation will be performed with little risk of
accident, and with the removal of very little of
the interstice between the lines; but if the dis-
tance between the lines is great, the risk and
difficulty is very much increased, and it will be
requisite to cut away the parts which surround
the lines with a graver, in order to prevent the
dabber with the printing-ink from reaching the
bottom, and thus producing a blurred impres-

 

sion. It is obvious, therefore, that the more the
plate is covered with work, the less risk there
will be in the preparation of it with the acid,
after the subject is drawn, and the less trouble
will there be in removing the interstice, if any,
from those places where there is little shading.

ENGRA VINGS, To Clean. —-It has been
found that ozone bleaches paper without injuring
the fiber in the least. It can be used for removing
mildew and other stains from engravings that
have beeninj ured by hanging on the walls of damp
rooms. The engravings should be carefully
moistened and suspended in a large vessel par-
tially filled with ozone. The ozone may be gen-
erated by putting pieces of clean phosphorus in
the bottom of the vessel, partially filled with
water, or by passing electric sparks through the
air in the vessel. ,

ETHER, To Wash—I. This operation is for
the removal of alcohol, and may be done- b
agitating with twice the bulk of water, which wi,
unite with the alcohol, forming a heavier stratum
from which the ether may be poured off. The
ether will absorb ten per cent. of the water, which
can be removed by agitation with freshly burnt
lime and subsequent distillation.—2. Turn the
ether and water into a glass funnel, while you
hold a finger to the end to prevent anything from
running out. The ether rises to the top, the
water and residue fall to the bottom. Take away
your finger from the funnel and let the water out;
then save your ether. It is almost as simple as
saving washed oil.

E YES (Sore), To Cum—Take a potato, and
after quartering it, grate the heart as fine as
possible, and place the gratings between pieces
of cambric muslin. Place the poultice over the
eyes inflamed, and keep it there fifteen minutes.
Continue the operation three successive nights
and a perfect cure ensues.

FEA THER PILLOWS—If a person sleeps
on his back, no pillow is needed. If one sleeps
upon the side, a pillow should be used thick
enough to support the head in a direct line with
the body. N o more. Curled hair is one of the
best materials for pillows. Feathers should
never be allowed about a bed in any form. For
pillows they are especially injurious, as the
partly surround the head and keep it overheate ,
which weakens the scalp and produces atendency
to falling out of the hair, congestion of the head
and headache. Then again, the effete emanations
that are always being thrown off from the feathers
are taken direct into the lungs with the inspired
air.

FERNS, To Raisefrom Seed.—Procure some
bricks or stones—bricks would be best, as they
have an even surface, and are also porous, ren-
dering them capable of holding water. These
would be best if found covered with moss which .
has naturallygrown on them. If not thus covered,
it can be very easily done. The moss must not
be thick ; it can be.clipped with a pair of scissors
if thick, and well washed before using, to get rid
of any seeds that may have fallen into it. These
bricks should be placed into the pot or pan, so
that their upper surface may come level with the
soil used to steady them and fill up the pot.
Sow the spores in the moss, and with a pepper
dredge dust over the moss very lightly with
burnt soil, and then with a very fine rose water-
ing-can, wash down the soil and spores into the
moss. Place the pot into a saucer of water,

47o

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DA Y WANTS.

 

which must be ke t full. Place a bell-glass
over; those which ave a hole in them near the
top I prefer, as they prevent damping, affording
an escape to the great evaporation which takes
place; they can be left alone for a week without
disturbance. There will be no necessity for
surface watering until the seedlings appear; even
then it is not advisable, if soaking the pot up to
the rim can be quickly done. I should before
have said that the bottom of the pot should be
filled one-third of its depth with broken crocks.
The pot should not see the sun until the seed-
lings are well up; even then shade is necessary.
The soil used should be previously burnt, other-
wise nurnberless seedlings willappear, which will
choke those wanted, and be a cause of mischief
in the operation of weeding. This plan I have
proved, and can recommend it.

FEVER andAGUE, To Cara—A new and
simple remedy is common salt. A teaspoonful
taken in water and a teaspoonful deposited in-
side the stocking next the foot as the chill is
coming on. That’s all there is of it; but, know-
ing that it has been efficacious in “breaking”
the chill and perfecting a cure, we here insert it.

FIRE ANNIHILA TOR, (Pfiilzfs’).—This
consists of a mixture of twenty parts charcoal,
sixty nitre, and five gypsum, boiled together in
water, and subsequently moulded into a cylin-
drical brick. Down the axis of this there is a
cavity for the reception of a phial containing a
mixture of chlorate of potash and sugar, sur-
rounded by a globule of sulphuric acid. By
pushing down a rod the glass containingthe acid
is broken and the mixture inflamed. The com-
position is placed in an iron perforated vessel,
and gives out a volume of gases which extinguish
the fire.

FIRE KIrVDLERS.—Take a quart of tar
and 3 pounds of resin, melt them, bring to a
cooling temperature, mix with as much sawdust,
with a little charcoal added, as can be worked
in; spread out while hot u on a board, when
cold break up into lumps o the size of a large
hickory nut, and you have, at a small expense,
kindling material enough for a household for one
itear. They will easily ignite from a match and

urn with a strong blaze, long enough to start
any wood that is fit to burn.

FIRES, Colored.—I. White light: 8 parts
saltpetre, 2 parts sulphur, 2 parts antimony.

2. Red light: 20 parts nitrate of strontia, 5
.parts chlorate of potash, 6% parts sulphur, I
part charcoal.

3. Blue light: 9parts chlorate of potash, 3
parts sulphur, 3 parts carbonate of copper.

4. Yellow light: 24 parts nitrate of soda, 8
parts antimony, 6 parts sulphur, I part charcoal.

5. Green light: 26 parts nitrate of baryta, 18
parts chlorate of potash, 10 parts sul hur.

6. Violet light: 4 parts nitrate o strontia, 9
parts chlorate of potash, 5 parts sulphur, I part
carbonate of copper, I part calomel.

FIRE WORKS, Strip/ride qf Cadmium in.—
In the following composition it is said that sul-
phide of cadmium gives a white flame, which is
surrounded by a magnificent blue margin: Salt-
petre, 20 parts; sulphur, 5; sulphide of cad-
mium, 4; powdered charcoal, 1’.

FIRE WORKS, Iron Sam! in.—Used to give
corruscations in fireworks; is far better than iron
or steel-filings. It is made by beating cast steel
or iron into small pieces on an anvil. These are

“(Four- Ounce. )—-Mealed

 

sifted into 4 sizes, the smallest for the smallest
pieces; and vice versa. The corruscations pro-
duced by these are exceedingly brilliant. The
sand should be kept in a dry place in a well-
closed bottle, as any rust damages it. Fireworks
containing it should not be made very long be-
fore using.

FIREWORKS, T a Represent Cordage in.~
Antimony, I part; juniper resin, I part; nitre,
2 parts; sulphur, 16 parts. Mix, and imbue soft
ropes with the composition.

FIRE W ORKS, T ourlz-Pa/mr jinn—Soak un-
glazed paper in solution of nitre in vinegar or
water. The st nger the solution, the faster
will it burn. A good plan is to dip it in a weak
solution, dry it, try it, and if it burns too slowly,
make the solution stronger and dip it again.

FIRE PVORK S, Quid! Matt/z art—Is made
by immersing lamp-wick in a so ution of salt-
petre with meal powder, winding it on a frame,
and afterwards dusting with meal powder. To
I 1b. 12 oz. of cotton, take saltpetre, I 1b.; alco-
hol, 2 quarts; water, 3 quarts; solution of isin-
glass (1 oz. to the pint), 3 gals.; mealed powder,
10 pounds.

FIRE W ORK S.-—Port Fires—Take of sul-
phur, 2 parts; saltpetre, 6parts; mealed pow-
der, I part. This is rammed into cases of from
6 inches to 2 feet long, and % inch internal di-
ameter. They should be lightly rammed. To
give a brilliant flame, add I part of iron sand;
for a dark flame, I part of powdered charcoal.—
Stars.-——( Common.)—- Saltpetre, I 1b.; sulphur,
4% oz.; antimony, 4 oz.; isinglass, % oz.; cam-
phor, % 02.; alcohol, % oz.-—( White.)—Mealed
powder, 4 oz.; saltpetre, 12 oz.; sulphur, 6%
02.; oil of spike, 2 oz.; camphor, 5 oz. The
above are to be made into balls, rolled in grained
powder and dried in the sun. Used in Roman
candles, rockets, etc.——T railed Star:._Saltpe.
tre, 4 oz.; sulphur, 6 oz.; sulphate of antimony,
2 oz.; rosin, 4 oz.—-(Wz'tlz Spark:.)——Mealed
powder, 1 oz.; saltpetre, 1 oz.; camphor, 2 oz.
—Colored Strum—May be made by using any
of the receipts for colored fires, with a solution
of isinglass, % oz.; camphor, % oz.; alcohol,
34 oz. Make into balls of the requisite size,
roll in gunpowder, dry in the sum—Roman
Candler.—Meal~powder, % 1b.; saltpetre, 2%
lbs.; sulphur, glass dust, each, }4 lb. This is
rammed in cases as follows: Put at the bottom
of the case a small quantity of clay, then some
gunpowder, then a wad of paper, then V6 of the
height of the case of the composition, then a
wad and powder and a star or ball, then more
composition, and so on till the case is filled.
The wads must be loose (only to prevent the
mixing of the composition and gunpowder), and
the ramming should not be begun until the case

is % filled, and then should be gentle lest the
stars be broken—Chinese Fire.-——(Red.)——Salt-

petre, 1 1b.; sulphur, 3 oz.; charcoal, 4 oz.; iron
sand, 7 oz.——( W/zz'te.)—Saltpetre, I 11).; mealed
powder, 12 oz.; charcoal, 7% 02.; iron sand,
fine, 11 oz.—Go[den Raz'n.—Mealed powder, 4
oz.; saltpetre, I 1b.; sulphur, 4 oz.; brass fil-
ings, I 02.; sawdust, 2% oz.; glass powder, 6
drs.—Sz'lverRain.—Mealed powder, 2 oz.; salt-
petre, 4 oz.; sulphur, I oz.; steel-dust, 94 oz.
——-W/zeel Ca:e:.—Mealed owder, 2 lbs.; salt-
petre, 4 oz.; steel filings, oz.—Far Rocket's.—
owder, I 1b.; charcoal,

I 02.; saltpetre, 4oz.-( zgfit-Oume.)—'Mcaled

MISCELLANEOUS.

powder, 'I 1b. I 02.; saltpetre, 4 02.; sulphur,
3% 02.; charcoal, t oz.——( One-Pound. )—Mealed
powder, I 1b.; charcoal, 3 oz.; sulphur, I 02.

FLOUR, PA TENT, To Make. —Patent
Flour for bread making has enjoyed a certain
degree of popularity for obtaining bread without
the necessary delay of fermentation. Some of
the many devices for this purpose, it is alleged,
produce very satisfactory results both in point
of economy and for the quality of the food when
served up on the table. In England there is a
flour known as Jones’ Patent Flour, which is
highly approved for the excellence of the bread
it yields, and the readiness with which it can be
employed. The directions for proceeding with
it are after the following fashion :—

Take Kiln-dried Flour .......... I cwt.
Tartaric acid .............. 10% ounces.

Mix well, and after a few days add of
Bicarbonate of soda ........ 12 ounces.
Lump sugar .............. % pound.
Common salt .............. 1% “

Unite the whole by passing through a sieve. It
is important that all of the ingredients be per-
fectly dry, and reduced, separately, to a very
fine powder. Simply mixing this flour with cold
water, and baking at once, you will have a light,
porous, and a fine-flavored biscuit or loaf. The
chief advantage, however, is the extemporaneous
facility with which bread may be prepared from
it without the loss of time caused by “setting a
sponge,” and the final uncertainty of having it
free from heaviness or acidity. Though it may
be slightly irrelevant to the question about flour,
we will just subjoin to the foregoing remarks,
that in bread-making a pound of best thoroughly
dried flour will need about nine fluid ounces of
water to make it into good dough fit for baking.
In using fresh baker’s bread we eat more water
than is usually suspected. The bread may have
indeed full weight, but then too much of it comes
from the well. A great fault of the bread of this
city is that it never is more than half enough
cooked. It is like a sponge soaked with water.
As food it is detestable. There is frequently,
we are sure, in the bread on the breakfast table
which has but just been hurried from the baker’s
oven, at least one-fourth of its weight of water.
It is literally water-logged, and is in such a state
that it can be quickly formed into a bolus in the
mouth without the aid of saliva. Thus it falls
like a stone into the stomach, and this much-
abused organ is needlessly worried for many
hours before the food is reduced to a fit condition
for the last change into blood. All starchy food
should undergo preparation in the mouth, by
being mixed with saliva in the process of masti-
cation, for its ready and perfect transformation
when it shall come under the influence of the
gastric fluid. Water-soaked bread or half-dis-
solved rice is therefore in most unsuitable condi-
tion for making wholesome and easily digested
aliment. The rule for cooking starchy food
should be to have'it subject to the fire until most
of the water is driven away, so that the fluid of
- the mouth will be necessary to incorporate the
mass into a proper ball which can be swallowed
without the danger of choking.

. FLOWERS, To Obtain from Bulfiou: Root:
m T lzree Weeka—Put quicklime into a flower-
pot till it is rather more than half full; fill up
with good earth; plant your bulbs in the usual

 

47! '

manner; keep the earth slightly damp. The heat
given out by the lime will rise through the earth,
which will temper its fierceness ; and in this
manner beautiful flowers may be obtained at any
season.

FLOWERS, T a Oétain Fresh-Blown in
Winter.——Choose some of the most perfect buds
of the flowers you would preserve, such as are
latest in blowing and ready to open; cut them
ofl” with a pair of scissors, leaving to each, if pos-
sible, a piece of stem about three inches long;
cover the end of the stem immediately with seal-
ing wax, and when the buds are a little shrunk
and wrinkled, wrap each of them up separately
in a piece of paper, perfectly clean and dry, and
lock them up in a dry box or drawer; and they
will keep without corrupting. In winter, or at
any time when you would have the flowers blow,
take the buds at night and cut off the end of the
stem sealed with wax, and put the buds into
water wherein a little nitre or salt has been dif-
fused, and the next day you will have the pleas-
ure of seeing the buds open and expanding them-
selves, and the flowers display their most lively
colors and breathe their agreeable odors.

FOSSILS, T o Preserve the Farm (f—Fossils
are often so friable that they fall to pieces on the
slightest handling. To make such remains
coherent saturate them in a solution of silicate
of potash.

FURNACES, Prevention of Smoke in.—-The .
theory of the prevention of smoke is very simple;
it is only necessary to secure the burning of the
gases,instead of letting them escape, unconsumed,
up the chimney; and in every invention which has
yet been brought forward, the object sought to be
achieved is the passage of the products of the
newly supplied coal over that which is already a
bright red. One class of inventors has endeav-
ored to accomplish this by turning the gases
back with a deflector placed behind the fire; an-
other has employed two furnaces, and fed them
alternately; and the third has sup lied additional
fresh air so as to mix with the de eterious gases,
and facilitate their burning to an incandescent
mass. Now, all these automatic arrangements
are rendered unnecessary if the stoker exercises
ordinary care. All he has to do is to well push
back the red hot coals in the furnace, and feed
the fresh coal near the mouth; and, consequently,
manufacturing companies have found that they
only had to give the men two shillings extra upon
their week’s pay if they avoided making smoke,
and fine them one shilling if they made smoke,
to insure an entire absence of the nuisance, and
increased economy in the use of coal—an im ort-
ant consideration, especially in cases where arge
quantities are used.

FURNITURE, Vamz’:lzed.—-—This may be
finished so as to look equal to the best French
polished wood, in the following manner: Take
two ounces of tri oli, powdered; put it into an
earthen pot, with Just enough water to cover it;
then take a piece of white flannel, lay it over a.
piece of cork or rubber, and proceed to polish
the varnish, always wetting it with the tripoli
water. It will be known when the process is
finished by wi ing a part of the work with a
sponge, and 0 serving whether there is a fair,
even gloss. When this is the case, take a bit
of mutton suet and fine flour, and clean the work.
The above process is suitable to other varnished
surfaces.

 

 

 

 

a
[0.000 LOOO I00.EACH

GAS ME TER, To Raul—The figures on the
index at the right hand denote even hundreds.
When the hand completes the entire circle it
denotes ten hundred, and is registered by the
hand in the centre circle, pointing to one—each
figure in the centre circle beinga thousand—this
entire circle being ten thousand; and is registered
on the index of the left hand circle by the hand,
there denoting by each figure, ten thousand.

The quantity of gas which passes through the
meter, is ascertained by reading from the index
at the time the amount is required to be known,
and deducting therefrom the quantity shown by
the index at a previous observation.

If the whole is registered by the hands on

the three circles above, it indicates. . . 49,900
Amount at previous observation, as shown

by the dotted lines .................. 42, 500

 

 

Shows amount which passed through since

last taken off ......... . .............. 7,400

The register at all times shows the quantity
that has passed through since the meter was first
set, by deducting from which the amount that
has been paid for (without any regard to the
time when), shows that the difference remains
unpaid.

GA S-B URNERS.—The following are those
in common use:

Batrwing.—This has asingle slit at the top of
the burner. It is very steady; does not change
its form under any pressure. It is, therefore,
used in street lamps. It is not, however, econo-
mical.

Firk-tail.—This form is generally used in
houses; it has two openings in the top, from
which the jets of gas issue and form a flat flame,
the plane of which is at right angles to that of
the openings. When the pressure is too great
the flame elongates and sings, thus calling atten-
tion to the waste. It is an economical burner,
but flickers. This unsteadiness is trying to the
eyes, and the fish-tail should never be used to
read or write by.

Argand.—These are the steadiest and most
economical burners, but require achimney. The

as is allowed to escape by a ring of holes, and
fire air is admitted both inside and outside of
this ring. In the patent Argand the outer ring
of air passes through a series of small openings,
and the inner ring is deflected into the flame by
abutton; it requires a swelled chimney. By
cutting off the button a steadier light is obtained,
and the economy is nearly the same; straight
chimneys are more easily obtained than the
others. The best flint-glass chimneys are in the
end the chea est; great loss of light ensues if
they are not ept clean. But putting a chimney
into hydrant-water, and gradually heating it, it
may be cleaned safely; paper gives the best
finish. The larger the burner the greater the
relative economy.

GAS. T o Avoid Waste qf.——Turn the gas

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

partly of? at the meter; much gas is burned to
waste by too great pressure in certain localities.
In buildings of any size a good regulator will
soon pay for itself.

GAS, T est; for Impurities z'n.-——Sulp/mrettd
Hydrogen. Dissolve a small quantity of acetate
of lead, commonly called sugar of lead, in distill-
ed or rain water, until the mixture is about the
consistency of cream; dip into it a piece of
writing paper, which hold a minute or two over
a jet of gas (unlighted); if the paper be not
discolored, the gas may be considered pure; but
if a brown stain be imparted to it, the lime in
the purifiers should be renewed. This test will
detect the presence of sulphureted hydrogen in
gas, if it contain one part in 20,000. As this
preparation of lead is an active poison, it should
be used with caution, and labeled. A solution
of nitrate of silver and distilled water is a more
delicate test than the above—Ammonia. Apply
either litmus paper or yellow turmeric paper
reddened by vinegar, or any other weak acid, to
a jet of gas, as above; if the blue color of the
litmus paper return, or the color of the turmeric
paper deepen to a brown, the gas contains a
proportionate amount of ammonia—Carfiom'c
A rid. This may be detected by adding to water
impregnated with the gas a few drops of sul-
phuric acid, when minute air bubbles of carbonic
acid gas will be rapidly disengaged. Another
test is to pass the gas through a solution of pure
barytes in the blue tincture of litmus, when, if
carbonic acid be present, carbonate of barytes
will be precipitated.—Atmo.rp/zrrz'c A z'r. The
presence of atmospheric air in gas can be readily
detected by collecting a portion of the gas over
mercury, and then passing up, first a few drops
of caustic potassa, and afterwards a drop or two
of a solution of pyrogallic acid. If the liquid
assume a blood red hue, oxygen, indicating the
presence of atmospheric air, is mixed with the
gas—Bimlplzia’e of Carbon. By forcing, by
means of an ordinary blowpipe, the flame of
coal gas, for about a minute, on to distilled water
containing a little acid chloride of barium, sul-
phate of baryta is formed, and the presence of
sulphur in the gas thus proved.

GAS (Laugking), T o Milken—Heat gently
in a flask or ret0rt. nitrate of ammonia (made by
adding carbonate of ammonia t0 nitriglzoacid until
no more gas comes off). It should e allowed
to stand some time over water before being
breathed.

GAS-TAPS, To Stop Me Leakage o .—
Many people are annoyed by the slight lea age
of taps, causing offensive odor deleterious to
health in the apartments where they are placed,
and also increasing their bills. In many cases
they may easily remedy the evil without sending
for a plumber or gas-fitter. To do this they
should turn off the gas back of the meter; then
take out (a screw driver is all the tool required)
the plug. Next light a wax, sperm, or paraffine
candle, and drop the melted wax, sperm, or pa-
raffine upon the surface of the plug, till it is co-
vered with a thin layer. Next, screw in the tap,
and in nine cases out of ten the leak will be stop-
ped, and remain stopped.

GA LLEL/V, (A New Dyt).—The crystals of
gallein are first produced, and these are convert-
ed into gallin by means of zinc and dilute sul-

huric acid. On subse uently treating the gal‘
'n with concentrated su phuric acid at 200° C.,

MISCELLANEO US.

:substanoe named corulein is obtained. This
dissolved in aniline forms arich indigo blue, and
with alkalies it gives a fine green, while, if mor-
danted with iron compounds, a fine brown‘is
imparted to the goods. These colors are readily
imparted to cloth, and are of cons1derable per-
manence, resisting the action of soap.

GEA 1?le G and PULLE YS, To Compute
fizz Speed of.-—The following simple rule for
calculating the speed of gearing or pulleysiis,
doubtless, in familiar use by many mechanics.
We give it, however, for the convenience of those
of our readers who may not hq‘ppen to be ac-
quainted with it, and who have oundthe need,
in practice, of a uniform rule, applying to all
cases. To find the speed of a driven wheel, when
the number of teeth of both wheels and the num-
ber of revolutions of the driving-wheel are given:
Multiply the number of teeth of the driving-
wheel by the number of its revolutions; diyide
its product by the number of teeth of the driven
wheel, and the quotient will be the number of
revolutions of the driven wheel. For example:
an So-cog spur-wheel on a water-wheel shaft
making 85 revolutions per minute, and driving
a 34-cog inion; to find the speed of the pinion,
multiply o, the number of cogs of the drivmg-
wheel, by 85, the number of revolutions, and the
product is 6800. Divide this product by 34, the
number of cogs in the pinion or driven wheel,
and the quotient is 200, the number of revolu-
tions of the pinion per minute. To reverse the
rule : The number of teeth and number of revo-
lutions of the driving-wheel and the number of
revolutions of the driven wheel being given, to
find the number of teeth of the driven wheel.
In the case above supposed, multiply 80 (number
of cogs of spur-wheel) by 85, (number of Its re-
volutions) and divide the product, .6300, by zoo,
the number of revolutions of the pinion per mm-
ute; the quotient, 34., is the number of teeth of
the pinion or driven wheel. In palculatlng the
speed of pulleys, the same rule 1s adopted, ex-
cept that the diameter of the wheel or pulley IS
used in place of the number of teeth. The speed
of the driving-wheel being multiplied by its dia-
meter, the product is divided by the diameter of
the driven ulley, and the quotient is the num-
ber of revo utions of the pulley; or if the same
product be divided by the number of revolutions
of the pulley, the quotient will be the diameter
of the pulley. . .

GER/1 N1 UMS, To Preserve Durmg I/Vm-
ter.—-Take the plants to be preserved out of
their ots, trim ofi‘ the leaves and outer branches,
and t en take off all the soil from the roots, tie
them up in bunches, and hang them, roots up-
ward, in a dark, dry cupboard, loft, or cellar,
where no irost can touch them. In the spring
bring them out, and having well cleaned your
pots inside and out, re-pot them in some good
compost. - .

GINGER, T inclure oft—Take of ginger, in
coarse powder, 2 ounces; proof spirits, 2 pints.
Digest in a gentle heat for 7 days, and strain.
This tincture is cordial and stimulant, and is
generally employed as a corrective to purgative
draughts. . .

GILDERS’ GLUE. —Rabb1t-sk1ns are cut
into thin strips like vermicelli, and subjected in
a vessel to a bath of boiling water. They are
then poured into a kind of basket, pierced at the
bottom like a cullender; the skin remains at the

 

473

bottom, and the juice flows into a reservoir
placed underneath. A solution of sulphate of
zinc with alum, in pure water in ebullition, is
then made separately, consisting of about 100
grammes of the sulphate to 25 of the alum. This
solution is poured on the yet warm juice of the
skin in the reservoir, and well mixed together.
The juice is then passed through a strainer, and
from thence into a rectangular box, of the form
of soap-bars. In this box the juice coagulates
in about 24 hours in winter and 48 hours in
summer. Then with a sharp instrument the
coagulated bar is detached from the box, cut
transversely in two lengths, and each half bar is
placed in a receptacle where it is submitted to
the action of several cutters, which form it into
thin sheets. These sheets are extended on
strings to dry in the open air, or in an oven, ac-
cording to the season. The size of these sheets
of skin glue is about two inches, and their color
very light chestnut, the traces of the strings and
knots appearing lozenge-shaped upon them.

GLASS or CHINA, To Pack—Procure some
soft straw or hay to pack them in, and if they
are to be sent a long way, and are heavy, the
hay or straw should be a little damp, which will
prevent them slipping about. Let the largest
and heaviest things be always put undermost,
in the box or hamper. Let there be plenty of
straw, and pack the articles tight; but never at.
tempt to pack up glass or china which is of much
consequence, till it has been seen done by some
one used to the job. The expense will be but
trifling to have a person to do it who under-
stands it, and the loss may be great if articles
of such value are packed up in an improper
manner. _

GLASS ( Ground) Stopple, To Laurens—Hold
the hand around the neck of the bottle, IO or I 5
seconds, until its warmth expands the glass of
the bottle—when the stopple will move easily.
If it does not, try a higher heat by the aid of a
rag dipped in hot water and wrapped around the
neck of the bottle for a minute .or so. Another
way is to hold the neck of the bottle, cautious]
turning it, so as not to expose any part to muc
or too sudden a heat, near or over a gas jet or
heat from a lamp.

GLASS, To Platim'ze.——Pour rosemary oil
upon the dry chloride of platinum in a porcelain
dish, and knead it well until all parts are moist-
ened; then rub this up with five times its weight
of lavender oil, and leave the liquid a short time
to clarify. The objects to be platinized are to
be thinly coated with the above preparation and
afterwards heated for a few minutes in a muflie
or over a Bunsen burner.

GLASS, To Wrz'z‘e or Draw on.—Thc process
of writing or drawing on glass can be done by
procuring some French chalk; place the glass
on a table, and while breathing on it, write with
the chalk, after that wipe it with a damp cloth;
when dry the drawing will disappear; breathe
on it again and it will return. »

GL4 ZIA’ G (Common), For Edit/tannin”.—
Take of white sand, 40 lbs. ; red lead, 20 lbs.;
pearlash, 201bs.; common salt, 12 lbs. Powder
this sand by grinding before it be mixed with
the other ingredients, and then grind them
together,_ after which, calcine them for some
time with a moderate heat, which must be less
than will make them melt and run to glass; and
when the mixture is cold, grind it to powder

474

again, and, when wante’d, temper it with water
and it will then be fit for use.

The proportions of these ingredients may be
varied occasionally, for, where the glazing can
be fluxed conveniently with a very strong fire,
the quantity of sand may be increased to 60 or 70
lbs. , which not only renders the glazing stronger,
but makes a saving in the expense. The pro-
portion of pearlashes may likewise be dimin.shed,
or they may be wholly omitted where the ware
is designed for very coarse purposes, and not
for domestic uses, where the lead is very im-
proper, being extremely apt to be corroded by
acids, and to produce a very unwholesome sub-
stance. On this account, where good manufactories
are established, the lead ought to be excluded
from the composition of the glazings, and other
fluxes used in its stead, as in the following:

GLA ZIN G ( T ransparent), For Earthenware.
-—Take of white sand, 40 lbs.; of pearlash, 21
lbs.; and of common salt, 15 lbs. Calcine, and
proceed as above. '

Where the expense is no object, this glazing
may be improved by adding I or 2 lbs. of borax,
and diminishing the pearlash in the proportion of
6 lbs. for I 1b. of borax added, or 10 lbs. for 2;
in the latter case, 2 lbs. of salt may be also kept
out of the composition. The reason for this
change is, that if the composition contain so large
a proportion of salt, and the glazing be not
fiuxed for a long time after it is laid on the ware,
it will be apt to be dissolved by boiling water,
and peel off, if it be exposed to the action of it
for any long time.

A not/zer.—Take of sand, 40 lbs.; of wood-ashes,
perfectly burnt, 501bs.; of pearlash, 10 lbs.; of
common salt, 12 lbs. .

This will make an admirable glazing, where
the ashes are pure, and a strong fire can be given
to flux it when laid on the ware. It will be
perfectly free from the imperfection of the above,
and will be very hard and glossy, and where the
expense can be afforded, itanay be made more
yielding to the 'fire by the addition of borax, in

~ which case no alteration need be made in the

proportion of the other ingredients.

GLA ZING, Fine Blue—Take of red lead, I
1b.; powdered flints, 2 lbs.; common salt, 2 lbs.;
tartar, I lb. Calcine till it is almost white.
White flint-glass, % 1b., and zaffre, %>lb. Fuse
the whole mixture, and quench the melted mass
in water. Repeat the same operation several
times. The same proceeding must be adhered
to in all the compositions where the tartar enters,
otherwise they would be too much charged with
salt, and the color would not prove fine. It is
proper,moreover,to calcine the mixture gently day
and night, for 48 hours, in a glass-house furnace.

Another-Take Ill). of tartar, % lb. of red
lead, % oz. of zaffre, and % 1b. of powdered
flints. Fuse the whole, and proceed in the
manner stated above.

GLAZING, Green (To be Laid on a White
Ground. )—Take of calcined copper I part, and
2 parts of any of the common yellow glazings.
Fuse them twice, but when the composition is
used it must not be laid on too thick, for that
would render the color too deep.

GLAZING, Lemon-Colored. —Take of red
lead, 3 parts; of powdered bricks, very red, 3%
parts; and of antimony, I part. Calcme the
mixture day and night, for the space of 4 days,
in the ash-hole of a glass-house furnace. Urge

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVER Y—DA Y WANTS.

it at last to fusion, and it will produce a very
fine lemon-colored lazing.

The success of this operation depends greatly
on the fineness of the color of the bricks that are
powdered. Those which are of a fine red and
very brittle, are the best; but such as are gray
will not at all answer the end. The same atten-
tion should be paid to this matter wherever
bricks are used in this kind of preparations.

G LA ZIZVG, Lig/zt Yellow-Take of red lead,
4 parts; of antimony, 3 parts; of the mixture of
the calxes of lead and tin, before mentioned in
the masticot for white enamel, 8 parts; and of
glass, 3 parts.

When the red lead and calx of tin are used,
the proportion of the ingredients will be of red
lead, IO parts; of antimony and glass, each, 3
parts; and of calcined tin, 2 parts. ’

GLA ZINC, VioZeI-Blue.—Take 12 parts of
tartar and an equal quantity of Hints and zaffre.
Proceed as with the above.—Anotlzer.—Take 4
oz. of tartar, 2 oz. of red lead, 5 oz. of powdered
flints, and % dr. of magnesia. Proceed as with
the above.

GOLDBEA T ERS’ SKIN—Is prepared by
extending the peritoneal membranes of the cae«
cum, and washing them, first with plain water,
and then with a solution of alum, and afterwards
with a solution of isinglass and spices.

GRASS, To Crystallize. -— Having secured
the grass during the summer and fall months,
and dried it in a dark room, procure one-half
pint of white spirit varnish, and I oz. of white
frosting; dip the blades of grass into the varnish
separately}, and immediately sprinkle on the
powdered frosting; then put it away carefully to

dr .

YGRASS, T a Prevent Growing in a Paved
Yard. — Pour boiling water over the stones
whenever the grass shows itself.

GREEN-H0 USE, or Conservatory, To Make.
——The depth of green-houses should never be
greater than their height in the clear; which, in
small or middling houses may be sixteen or
eighteen feet, but in large ones from twenty to
twenty-four feet; and the length of the windows
should reach from about one foot and a hall
above the pavement, and within the same dis-
tance of the ceiling.

The floor of the green-house, which should be
laid either with Bremen squares, Purbeck stone,
or flat tiles, must be raised two feet above the
surface of the adjoining ground, or, if the situa-
tion be damp, at least three feet; and if the
whole is arched with low brick arches under the
floor, they will be of great service in preventing
damp; and under the floor, about two feet from
the front, it will be very advisable to makea
flue of ten inches wide, and two feet deep; this
should be carried the whole length of the house,
and then returned back along the hinder part,
and there be carried up into funnels adjoining to
the tool-house, by which the smoke may be
carried off. The fire-place may be contrived at
one end of the house, and the door at which the
fuel is put in, as also the ash—grate, may be con-
trived to open into the tool-house.

Whilst the front of the green-house is exactly
south, one of the wings may be made to face the
southeast, and the other the southwest. By this
disposition the heat of the sun is reflected from
one part of the building to the other all day, and
the front of the main green-house is guarded

MISCELLANEO US.

from the cold winds. These two wings may be
so contrived as to maintain plants of different
degrees of hardiness, which may be easily effect.
ed by the situation and extent of the fire-place,
and the manner of conducting the lines.

The $10 ing glasses of these houses should be
made to s ide and take off, so that they may be
drawn down more or less in warm weather to
admit air to the plants; and the upright glasses
in the front may be so contrived as that every
other may open as a door upon hinges, and the
alternate glasses may be divided into two; the
upper part of each should be so contrived as to
be drawn down like a sash, so that either of
them may be used to admit air in a greater or
less quantity, as there may be occasion. As to
the management of plants in a green-house,
open the mould about them from time to time,
and sprinkle a little fresh mould in them, and a
little warm dung on that; also water them when
the leaves begin to wither and curl, and not
oftener, which would make them fade and be
sickly; and take off such leaves as wither and
grow dry.

Glx’IA’DS T ONE S, Ar!g7iez'al.—Washed silice-
ous sand 3 parts; shellac 1 part; melt, and form
it into the proper shape while warm. The fine-
ness of the sand must depend on the work the
stone is intended for. Powdered emery may- be
substituted for sand. The same composition is
formed upon pieces of wood, for the purpose of
sharpening knives, and cutting stones, shells, etc.

GRINDS T ONES, Ute (y‘Z—The periphery
of every grindstone on which edge-tools are
ground should run as true as the dressed surface
of a millstone, as it is impracticable to grind a
tool correctly on a stone that revolves with an
uneven motion. If the periphery of a stone varies
half an inch in each revolution, the most ex-
peditious way to put it in order is to loosen the
wedges with which it is keyed to the journal,
and rehang it. Then secure the bearings of the
journal, so that they cannot be easily lifted out
of the boxes, and turn the periphery off true and
smooth. Let a firm rest be fixed close to the
periphery before attempting to turn off the
prominent portions. The rest must be solid
with the surface close to the stone, so that when
the turning instrument comes in contact with the
stone, it will remove a thin chip without spring-
ing away from the stone. Stone-turners always
employ for a turning-tool the end of a bar of
very soft iron, drawn out to a point, and turned
up at the end for gouging. A piece of soft iron
is far more effective than steel.

It is recommended to tar the center of grind-
stones, in order to compel those who grind upon
them, to grind on the edges, forming a raised
center, which gives a better opportunity to put
a good edge on a tool, than a level surface does.
The ring of tar should be quite narrow, and all
who grind are compelled to use the edges of the
stone, as they cannot grind where the tar is.
This remedy should be tried where farm hands
Will not heed your request to wear the stone off
the edges.

GUN .COTTOM—Mix three parts of sul-
phuric acid, spec. grav., 1.85, with one part of
nitric acrd, spec. grav., L45 to I. 50; and when
the mixture cools down to between 50° and 60°
Fahn, clean rough cotton, in an open state, is
di pad in it; let soak, then pour off the excess
0 acrd, and press the cotton tightlv to remove

 

475

as much as possible of what remains. Then
cover the cotton and let stand for half an hour;
press again, and thoroughly wash in running
water. Partially dr it by pressure, then wash
in a solution made y dissolving one ounce of
carbonate of potash in a gallon of water. Press
again, so that the cotton will be nearly dry;
then wash in a solution of pure nitrate of otash,
one ounce to the gallon of water, an again
press, after which dry at a temperature of from
150° to 170°. Its projectile force is equal to
about twice its weight of the best gunpowder,
and on account of its quickness of action, can
hardly be used with safety.

G UNPO WDER. —-Gunpowder is made by
carefully grinding and mixing 75 parts willow or
birch charcoal, 15 parts saltpetre and 10 parts
brimstone.

A cheap gunpowder in which charcoal is re.
placed by common glue is thus prepared: The
glue or gelatin is first soaked in cold water, and
then heated in diluted nitric acid until it dis-
solves. It is next evaporated to dryness, re-dis-
solved in water, and then carbonate of bar ta is
added to neutralize the acid. The solution is
again evaporated, one part of sulphur and six
parts of nitrate of potash for every two parts of
glue being incorporated as the evaporation pro-
ceeds. This gives a slow burning powder which
may be rendered more energetic by replacing
nitrate by chlorate of potash.

G U TT A -P£l€CHA (Pure W/zz'te), Prepara—
tion ajI—This substance is now much used in
dentistry and for other purposes; and as differ-
ent qualities, some of them very inferior, are in
the market, many of our professional readers
may thank us for the details of a simple process
for manufacturing it. Four ounces of the purest
gutta-percha that can be selected are to be di-
gested for several days with five pounds methyl
chloroform until a solution is obtained thin en-
ough to pass through filtering paper, care being
taken during the operation to prevent any loss
of the chloroform by using the apparatus con-
structed for that purpose. The solution is then
to be filtered (an additional pound of chloroform
will facilitate this), and should then be clear
and nearly colorless. Alcohol is now to be add-
ed in sufficient quantity to precipitate the gutta.
percha in a voluminous white mass, which then
is to be washed with alcohol, pressed in a cloth,
and dried in the air. It must finally be boiled
in water in a porcelain vessel for half an hour,
and while ‘still hot rolled into sticks. The
chloroform can be separated from the alcohol
by adding water, and the alcohol recovered by
distillation.

G U TTA -PERCHA and}? UBBER, To Utilize
the Warteof.—The waste is cut into small pieces,
and 100 pounds of the same are placed in a well-
closed boiler, with to pounds of bisulphide of
carbon and 4 ounces absolute alcohol, well
stirred; then the boiler is closed, and left a few
hours to soak. After this time it is found to be
changed into a soft, dough-like mass, which,
after being ground or kneaded, is fit to be formed
into any shape, when the solvent will evaporate.
If too much of the latter has been used, a thick,
unmanageable liquid is obtained. This process
was patented in England some sixteen years ago.

HARNESS, Vamz’s/z for. —- Half a pound
India rubber, one gallon of spirits of turpentine;
dissolve by a little heat to make it into a jelly,

476

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

then take equal quantities of hot linseed oil and
above mixture, and incorporate them well on a
slow fire.

HA TS (Panama), How Mada—The process
of making Panama hats is as follows :—The
leaves of the pandamus, or Seren pine, from
which these hats are made, are gathered before
they unfold, the ribs and coarser veins are re-
moved, and the rest, without being separated
from the base of the leaf, is reduced to shreds.
After having been put in the sun for a day and
tied into a knot, the straw is immersed in boiling
water until it becomes white. It is then hung
up in a shady place, and subsequently bleached
for two or three days, after which the straw is
ready for use. The plaiting of the straw com-
mences at the crown and finishes at the brim,
and is a very troublesome operation. The hats
are made on a block placed on the knees, and
require to be constantly pressed with the breast.
The coarser hat may be finished in two or three
days, but the finest may require as many months.

HARP (Eolian), T 0 Maker-Of very thin
cedar, pine, or other soft wood make abox 5 or
6 inches deep, 7 orS inches wide, and of a length
just equal to the width of the window in which
it is to be placed. Across the top, near each end,
glue a strip of wood half an inch high and a
quarter of an inch thick, for bridges. Into the
ends of the box insert wooden pins, like those of
a violin, to wind the strings around, two pins in
each end. Make a sound-hole in the middle of
the top, and string the box with small catgut,
or blue first-fiddle strings. Fastening one end
of each string to a metallic pin in one end of
the box, and carrying it over the bridges, wind it
around the turning-pin in the opposite end of the
box. The ends of the box should be increased in
thickness where the wooden pins enter, bya piece
of wood glued upon the inside. Tune the strings
in unison and place the box in the window. It is
better to have four strings, as described, but a
harp with a single string produces an exceedingly
sweet melody of notes, which vary with the force
of the wind. -

HANGING BASKET, Novel.—Procure a
large-sized turnip and scrape out the inside,
leaving a pretty thick wall all around; fill the
cavity with earth, and plant in it some clinging
vine or morning-glory. Suspend the turnip with
cords, and in a little time the vines will twine
around the strings, and the turnip sprouting from
below will put forth leaves and stems that will
{)urn upwards and curl gracefully around the

ase.

HONEY (Artificial), To Mafia—I. Take
5 pounds good common sugar, 2 pounds of wa-
ter, gradually bring to a boil, skimming well;
when cool add I pound bees’ honey and 4 drops
of peppermint. If you desire a better article use
white sugar and % pound less water, and one-
half pound more honey.—2. Good brown sugar
10 lbs.; water I qt.; old bee bread honey in the
comb 21b5,; cream of tartar I tea-spoon; gum
arabic I 02.; oil of peppermint 3 drops; oil of
rose 2 drops. Mix and boil 2 or 3 minutes and
have ready I qt. more of water in which an egg
is put well beat up; pour it in, and as it begins
to boil, skim well, remove from the fire, and
when a little cool, add 2 lbs. of nice bees’ honey,
and strain.—3. Coffee sugar Iolbs.; water 3 lbs.;
cream of tartar 2 oz. ; strong vinegar 2 table-
spoons; the white of I egg well beaten; bees’

 

honey % lb. ; Lubin’s extract of honeysuckle 10
drops. First put the sugar and water into a
suitable kettle and lace upon the fire; and when
luke-warm stir in t e cream of tartar, and vine-
gar; then continue to add the egg; and when
the sugar is nearly melted put in the honey ,and
stir until it comes to a boil, take it off, let it
stand a few minutes, then strain, adding the ex-
tract of honeysuckle last, let stand over night,
and it is ready for use—4. Take 10 pounds of
Havana sugar, 4 pounds of water, 40 grains of
cream tartar, 10 drops essence eppermint, and
3 pounds of honey; first, disso ve the sugar in
the water over a slow fire, and take off the scum
arising therefrom. Then dissolve the cream tar-
tar in a little warm water, and add, with some
stirring; then add the honey, heated to a boiling
oint; then add the essence of peppermint; stir
or afew minutes, and let it stand until cold,
when it will be ready for use.—-5. Dissolve 20
lbs. of coarse sugar in 3 quarts of warm water;
stir into it one-fifth of an ounce of cream of tar-
tar dissolved in a little water, and also five or
six pounds of good honey, and half a teaspoon-
ful of essence of peppermint. Boil the whole
slowly, twelve minutes, stirring constantly.

HONEY, Liyuid.--Put two pounds of the
purest white sugar in as much hot water as will
dissolve it; take one pound of strained white
clover honey—any honey of good flavor will an-
swer—and add it warm to the syrup, thoroughly
stirring together. As refined loaf sugar is apure
and inodorous sweet, one pound of honey will
give its flavor to two pounds of sugar, and the
compound will be free from that smarting taste
that pure honey often has, and will usually
agree with those who cannot eat the latter with
impunity. Any desired flavor can be added
to it.

HORNAND TORTOISE-SHELL, Marz-
ufartzzre afi—Almost the only kinds of horn that
are the subject of manufacture are those of the
bull and cow, and the hoofs of these animals;
the horns of the bullock being thin, and ofa
very coarse texture, are used only for the most
ordinary purposes. Our domestic supply is by
no means equal to the demand, so that great
quantities are imported from Russia, the Cape
of Good Hope, and South America.

The first process is the separation of the true
horn from the bony core on which it is formed;
for this purpose the entire horns are macerdted
in water for a month or six Weeks, according to
the temperature; during this time, the mem-
brane which lies between the core and the horn
is destroyed by putrefaction, so that the core be-
comes loose and can easily be extracted. The
cores are not thrown away, but are burnt to
ashes, and in this state form the best material
for those small tests or cupels employed by the
assayers of gold and silver. '

The next process is to cut off wrth a_saw the
tip of the horn—that is, the whole of 1ts solid
pare—which is used by the cutlers for knife-'
handles, is turned into buttons, and applied to
sundry other purposes. The remainder of the
horn is left entire or is sawn across into lengths,
according to the use to which it is destined.
Next, it is immersed in boiling water for half
an hour, by which it is softened; and, while hot,
is held in the flame of a coal or wood fire, taking
care to bring the inside as well as the out51de
of the horn, if from an old animal, in contact

MISCELLANEO US.

with the blaze. It is kept here till it acquires
the temperature of melting lead or thereabouts,
and in consequence becomes very soft. In this
state it is slit lengthwise by a strong pointed
knife, like a pruning-knife, and by means of two
pairs of pincers, applied one to each edge of the
slit, the cylinder is opened nearly flat. These
flats are now placed on their edges between
alternate plates of iron, half an inch thick and
eight inches square, previously heated and greas-
ed, in a strong horizontal iron trough, and
powerfully compressed by means of wedges
driven in at the ends.

The plates thus obtained are laid one by one
on a board covered with bull’s hide, are fastened
down by a wedge, and are then scraped with a
draw-knife having a wire edge turned by means
of a steel rubber; when reduced to a proper
thickness and smoothed, they are polished by a
woolen rag dipped in charcoal dust, adding a little
water from time to time, then rubbed with rotten-
stone, and finished with horn shavings. The
longest and thinnest of the films cut off by the
draw-knife, when dyed and cut into various
figures, are sold under the name of sensitive
Chinese leaves, (being originally brought from
China,) which, after exposure to a damp air,
will curl up as if they were alive when laid on a
warm hand or before the fire.

For combs, the plates of horn should be pres-
sed as little as possible, otherwise the teeth of
the comb will split at the points. They are
shaped chiefly by means of rasps and scrapers of
various forms, after having been roughed out by
a hatchet or saw; the teeth are cut by a double
saw fixed in a back, the two blades being set to
different depths, so that the first cuts the tooth
only half way down, and is followed by the other
which cuts to the full depth; the teeth are then
finished and pointed by triangular rasps. If a
comb or other article is too large to be made out
of one plate of horn, two or more may be joined
together by the dexterous application of a degree
of heat sufficient to melt but not to decompose
the horn, assisted by a due degree of pressure;
and when well managed, the place of juncture
can not be perceived. The Chinese are remark-
ably skillful in this kind of work.

If a work in horn, such as one of the large
combs worn by women, is required to be of a
curved or wavy figure, it is finished flat, and is
then put into boiling water till it becomes soft,
and is immediately transferred to a die of hard
wood, in which it is cautiously pressed, and
remains there till cold.

Horn combs ornamented with open-work are
not made in this country, because the expense of
cutting them would be more than the price of the
article would repay; but great numbers of them
are imported from France. These, however, are
not cut, but pressed in steel dies made in London
for the French manufacturers; and from an ex-
amination of these combs, it is evident that the
material must have been in a soft state, ap-
proaching to fusion, when put into the die.

_ Horn steeped for a week in liquor, the active
ingredient of which is caustic fixed alkali, be-
comes so soft that it may easily be molded into
any required shape; and shavmgs subjected to
the same process become semi-gelatinous, and
may be pressed in a mold into the form of snuff-
boxes and other articles. Horn, however, so
treated, becomes hard and very brittle, probably

 

477

in consequence of its laminated texture being
obliterated by the joint action of the alkali and
strong pressure.

Drinking-cups of horn are thus made: The
horn being sawn to the required length, is scald“
ed and roasted over the fire, as already described;
but instead of being slit and opened, is placed
while hot in a conical mold of wood; a corre-
sponding plug of wood is then driven hard in,
to bring the horn to shape. Here it remains till
cold, and is then taken out and fixed by the large
end on the mandrel of alathe, where it is turned
and polished both inside and outside, and a
groove, or chine, as the coopers call it, is cut by
a gauge tool within the small end for receiving
the bottom. The horn is then taken off the lathe
and laid before the fire, where it expands and
becomes somewhat flexible; a round, flat piece
of horn, of the proper size, (cut out of a plate
by means of a kind of crown saw,) is dropped in
and forced down till it reaches the chine, and
becomes perfectly fixed in this situation, and
water-tight by the subsequent contraction of the
horn as it cools.

Horn is easily dyed by boiling it in infusions
of various coloring ingredients, as we see in the
horn lanterns, made in China. In Europe it is
chiefly colored of a rich red-brown, to imitate
tortoise-shell, for combs and inlaid work. The
usual mode of effecting this is to mix together
pearlash, quicklime, and litharge, with a suffi-
cient quantity of water and a little pounded
dragon’s blood, and boil them together for half
an hour. The compound is then to be applied
hot on the parts that are required to be co ored,
and is to remain on the surface till the color has
struck; on those parts where a deeper tinge is
required, the composition is to be applied a sec-
ond time. ',

The Chinese also make bows partly of wood
and partly of bufi'alo’s horn; but t e best Indian
bows, those, namely, of Lahore, are made of
horn combined with wood, and strapped round
with siiiew.

Horn was also used as we now employ glass
in windows, for which, however, it is not very
well adapted, as plates thin enough to be trans-
parent would soon warp, and be corroded by
exposure to the weather.

Horns are also of very ancient use as musical
instruments; the true bugle-horn was made of
the horns of the urus, or wild bull, tipped with
silil'er, and slung in a chain of the same mate-
ria .

Another use to which horn has been applied
is as a material for defense, complete suits of
armor having been made from it.

The general mode of manufacturing tortoise.
shell is the same as already described when
treating of horn. It is softened by boiling in
water, but mere water takes away much of the
color; an addition of common salt prevents this
injury; but if too strong a brine is used, the
shell will be very brittle. Two or more pieces
of tortoise-shell may be joined by laying their
scraped or thin edges together, and then press-
ing them between hot irons. If, however, the
heat is too great, the colors are much deepened,
so as to become almost black, as in the case with
molded snuff boxes; for tortoise-shell, being
less fusible than horn, can not be made soft
enough to be molded without some injury to the
color. Accordingly the manufacturers never

478

attempt to produce tortoise-shell combs with or-
namental‘open-work by means of dies, but in
the following manner:

A paper being pasted over the tortoise-shell,
the pattern is drawn on the paper, and is then
cutout by means of drills and fine saws; the
paper is then removed by steeping in water,
and the surface of the pattern is finished by the
graver.

In making small side combs, it is found worth
while, in order to save a costl material,‘to em-
ploy a machine consisting o a cutter working
strai ht up and down, and of a bed (on
whic the shell is laid) to which is given a mo-
tion advancing by alternate inclination, first to
one side and then to the other. By this means
the teeth of the two combs are cut at the same
time, those of the one occupying the intervals of
the other. Such combs are called parted, the
saw not being used upon them, and are often
made of fine stained horn instead of tortoise-
shell. Tortoise-shell is also used for inlaying
tables, cabinets, and other ornamental articles,
a metallic foil being placed below it to give
lustre and color.

For modern uses, thick tortoise-shell is more
valuable in proportion than thin; but among the
Romans, where it was used only for inlaying,
veneers were cut out of it.

HORJV, To Color Blah—A process recent.
ly announced for imparting a black color to horn,
without the aid of heat, consists in taking the
articles, finished and ready for polish, and im—
mersing them in a lye of caustic potash or soda,
‘ until the outer surface of the horn is somewhat
dissolved, as shown by a greasy feel. With care,
fine tooth combs can be treated in this way
without any injury. They are then washed off
and dipped in aniline black, slowly dried, and
then again washed off. By transmitted light the
horn is of a dark brown color, but by reflected
light it is of a deep black.

HORIV, in Imitalion qf Tortoire-S/zell.—
First steam and then press the horn into proper
shapes, and afterwards lay the following mixture
on with a small brush, in imitation of the mottle
of tortoise-shell: Take equal parts of quicklime
and litharge, and mix with strong soap-lees; let
this remain until it is thoroughly dry; brush off,
and repeat two or three times if necessary.
Such parts as are required to be of a reddish-
» brown should be covered with a mixture of whi-
ting and the stain.

HORSE, To Break of Pawing.——Nail iron
strips across the horse’s stall—say strips one
inch wide and one-half inch thick, six inches
,apart, securely nailed crossways his stall—and
they will soon make him sick of pawing, when
he will no doubt find some other way of passing
away the time\ If he takes to kicking, fasten
the trace chain around his fetlock; if to cribbing,
tradé'him off and let some one else cure him of
that detestable habit.

H 0RSE~COLLA RS, and SADDLES, etc.,
W'aoa’m.-Galled shoulders and backs are to no
small extent due to the soft pads and cushions
which are pressed upon the tender skin under
which the muscles play, and upon which great
weight or draught is borne. The skin thickens
and gets tough to some extent, but the softer or
more padded the collar or saddle, the more liable
is the skin to blister and gall. This is because
the perspiration is retained, the skin softened

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

and made to rub and move more upon the flesh
and bone beneath. Horses whose backs galled
under padded saddles would. get well when used
with well-fitting army-saddles, which were sim-
ply hard wooden trees covered with rawhide,
dry and hard, almost like iron. Why the hint
has not been before taken we cannot imagine,
but only recently have we seen wooden horse-
collars introduced. They have been used for
some time at the South—more, we fanc , from
necessityrthan from choice, but with the est re-
sults. ow, two companies are manufacturing
them in this city, and other hard materials not
liable to absorb water are beingintroduced. Some
are made to be used with hames; others have
hooks or other attachment places for traces u on
the collar itself. One patented material caled
“Flaxhorn” is ve tough, capable of being
worked into very ‘light strong collars, saddle-
trees, harness, saddles, and pads.

A wooden collar for ordinary work can be
made which opens like ordinary hames, at the
top, but the two parts are fastened together at
the bottom by a strong iron hinge. Others
open to go over the head of the horse at two
points a little below the trace-hooks on each side;
others still chiefly in use for mules, we believe,
do not open at all, but are made in one piece,
with two spots cut out on each side, so that the
collar will go over the head, and not hurt the
bony projections over the eyes. As we see it,
there is a great future for hard horse-collars, etc. ,
and we fully believe they will be not only lighter,
but far easier for horses than the heavy costly
padded things they are now tortured with.

HOUSES, To K'eep Cool in Hot Wedtfitf.—'
In very hot days a cool apartment is a real
luxury to be had far oftener than most people
suppose possible. The secret consists, not in
letting in cool air, for naturally all do that
whenever they have the chance; but in keeping
out the hot air. If the air outside a room or
house be cooler than the air inside, let it in b
all means; but if it be hotter, carefully keep it
out.

A stair-case window left open during the night
will often cool the passages of a house, and the
rooms, too, if their doors be not shut; but it
must be closed at 8 or 9 o’clock in the morning,
or, if on the sunny side, at 4 or 5 o’clock, and the
blind drawn down. The mistake people gener—
ally make is to throw open their windows at all
hours of the day, no matter whether the atmos-
phere outside be cool or scorching.

Let us have some air, they say, and in comes
the treacherous breeze—for even hot air is pleas-
ant while it is gently blowing, taking away per.
spiration, and thereby cooling the skin; but the
apartment is made warmer, instead of cooler,
and as soon as they move out of the draught they
find their room to be more uncomfortable than
before.

Let in cool air—keep out hot—that is the only
formula to insure the minimum of discomfort.
Sitting-rooms may generally be kept cool during
the whole (lay if the doors be only opened for
ingress and egress, and the windows kept closed
and shielded from direct sunshine by a blind.
If the atmosphere of a room he impure from any
cause, let it be renewed; hot air is less injurious
than bad air. If a room be small in comparison
with the number of persons engaged in it, free
ventilation becomes indispensable.

MISCELLANEO US.

In a cooking apartment the temperature will
probably be higher than outside, hence the free
admission even of hot air will be desrrable. If
persons do not object to sit in a direct draught
of air, windows and doors may be opened, a
breeze being more refreshing, even though sev-
eral degrees warmer than still air; but under
nearly all other circumstances rooms should be
kept closed as much as possible until after sun-
down, or till the air outside is cooler than that
inside. Let in cool air; kee out hot.

ICE CHEST, To Ma e.-Take two dry
goods boxes, one of which is enough smaller
than the other to leave a space of about three
inches all around when it is laced inside. Fill
the s ace between the two With sawdust packed
close y, and cover with heavy lid made to fit
neatl inside the larger box. Insert a small
pipe in the bottom of the chest to carry off the
water from the melting ice. For family use this
has proved quite as serviceable and as econo-
mical as more costly “ refrigerators.”

ICE, To Camera—Ice should be cut early, as
the first ice keeps best, and is easier procured.
Snow has to be removed from the surface of the
ice before cutting, and it also injures the quality.
It should be gathered in December; select a
clear, cold day, and, with ice tools—which should
consist of a cross cut saw, an axe, a pike pole,
and an ice ladder— go to the scene of your
operations. Cut three feet wide with the saw,
and split off with the axe, by chipping out a V,
or wedge-shaped hole, at each edge; then strike
afew light blows in each hole until the block
separates from the mass. In this manner you
can get your blocks out nearly as true as with
the saw.

A convenient size to handle and pack is about
two by three feet. Twelve cakes will pack one
layer eight by nine feet square, which laid up
eight or nine feet high, is sufficient to last a
large family.

The ice ladder is used to draw the floating
cakes of ice upon the surface, and to load them
upon the sled or stone-boat, for removal to the
ice-house. The ladder is about twelve feet long
and twenty inches wide. The upright pins
must be strong, and the round at one end ex-
tend through both sides, to make handles. The
ladder is lowered into the water, and the cake
of ice floated over it. Then draw out the ladder,
and at the same time lower the handles. The
pins will hold the cakes upon the ladder; when
upon the surface, it can be quickly unloaded, by
raising one side of the ladder. The ice should
be taken to the house, and packed at once. Use
a plank to move the cakes, where needed, when
packing.

Look to your drainage; also see that your
house is tight at the bottom; for a current of air
passing through the ice, causes it to melt rapidly.

eave a space of six inches between the ice and
walls, and fill in with straw, packed close, or
sawdust, tanbark or; swamp moss. The latter is
to be preferred. Cover with a thick layer, and fill
to the roof with straw. Use double doors, with
a cooling room.

ICE-H0 USE, T a BuiltzC—A family ice-house
need not be an expensive structure. It may be
built cheaply, subserve its object excellently,
and add to the attractions of a homestead by
being a sightly object. A building of twelve feet
square and eight or nine feet high, is sufficient

 

479

for the wants of the most exacting family. It
may be a frame building, entirely above the sur-
face of the ground, and better if supported on
posts elevated afew inches, to be certain of good
drainage. Built of joists two by three inches,
with an outer boarding, having inside another
series of uprights, also boarded, from six to ten
inches removed from the outer shell, with a solid
floor of lank, the space between the two walls
filled wrth tan, sawdust, straw, or chaff, and a
roof of ood pitch, the ice-house is complete.
A drain or water should be made from the floor,
and the pitch of the roof filled with straw, hay,
or some similar dry, porous material. On the
roof should be a ventilator, the to defended
from the rain or snow. The ice should be pack-
ed in one solid mass, the sides not reaching the
inner walls of the building, but allowing a space
of from six to twelve inches all around. The
top of the ice should be covered with straw and
the doors should be like the sides of the build-
ing, or double doors should be made, one in the
outer and the other in the inner wall. Plant
mornin glories or any climbing plant around
the bui ding and induce them to creep up the
walls and over the roof as an additional defense
against the fervid sun of summer. Two work-
men, if not practical carpenters, can put up such
a building in one, or at most, two days, which
if taste and judgment is used, will prove to be a
sightly addition to the attractions of a country
home, and a useful adjunct to the farm, its con-
tents being invaluable in sickness. Such an
ice-house would prove also convenient as a re-
frigerator on a large scale, preserving food of
various kinds and the products of a dairy.
, It costs but little to build an ice-house, that
will keep ice the year round, where practical
utility only is aimed at, and not elegance of
structure. A writer on this subject says: Last
January I drew one large load of sawdust and
spread on the ground on the north side of my
horse barn, then drew the ice (sawed in square
cakes) and built up a square fpile some eight
by ten feet and seven or eight eet high, fillin
up the spaces between the cakes with pounde
ice. I then set up scantling and built a board
house around it two feet larger each way than
the ice; then filled in sawdust around and two
to three feet on top, and covered with boards
and slabs. We have used freely through the
season, sold to pic—nic parties, given away to
sick neighbors, and have plenty of ice yet.
Another writer thus tells how be constructed
an ice-house: I set posts in the ground, so as
to make a house twelve feet square, (three posts
on each side,) then board or plank it up eight
feet high, on the inside. The surface earth is
now dug out six inches deep, and sawdust filled
in one foot deep, making it six inches above the
level of the earth. The ice is car'efully packed,
nine feet square and six feet high, leaving a
s ace of ei hteen inches between ice and boards,
c osely pac ed with sawdust, and the same thick-
ness of sawdust placed on top. I have an old-
fashioned board roof over this ice-house. The
space above the sawdust is left open, so that the
air can circulate through, and the sun shine in.
The result is that we have used ice daily and
have a plenty yet. As to the cost, four men
with one team, cut, hauled and packed the ice,
and filled in-the sawdust in less than two da 5,
notwithstanding we had to haul the ice % mile.

480

INDIA RUBBER, Artg'flcial.—Prof. Son-
nenschein has discovered that an elastic mass
resembling caoutchouc may be obtained by com-
bining tungstate of soda with certain organic
substances. If tungstic acid or tungstate of
soda be added to glue, and afterward muriatic
acid, a compound of tungstic acid glue is precip-
itated which is so elastic at 85—105° F., that it
can be drawn out into very thin fibres. On
cooling, the mass becomes very solid and brittle.
It is proposed to employ this substance in place
of the costly albumen for mordanting cotton,
especially for aniline colors. The same material
has been used in tanning leather; but this be-
came hard as stone, and consequently unsuitable
{or ordinary purposes. By adding tungstate of
soda and muriatic acid to a solution of gelatine,
and heating the precipitate, a substance is ob-
tained which may be used as a putty or cement
in many cases.

INIf, Blink—The fault with most black ink
is too much iron, turning the writing brown
from oxidation. To remedy this, acid (generally
vinegar or an acid salt, as alum) is added, which
corrodes the pens. The iron should only be in
sufficient quantity to strike a black color. The
followin will be found a convenient and ex-
cellent ormulaz—Boil I part of granular pow-
dered galls with 20 parts of distilled water in a
glass flask for fifteen or twenty minutes; then
add I part sulphate of iron, dissolved in 2 parts
of distilled water, and I part of mucilage of
acacia; shake all together. It is ready for im-
mediate use, but improves by kee ing. It is
better not strained, but poured o as wanted.
A few drops of carbolic acid may be added to
preserve it, if required to be kept long.

INK ( Copying), t/zat dyer not Reguz're Damp-
ing—Use the same ingredients as for ordinary
copying ink, except that the quantity of water
used be decreased by from twenty to thirty per
cent., and the same quantity of glycerine be
added. This ink will, when written on, set ofi‘
upon any dry sheet of paper by simply rub-
bing it.

INK', Solzd~Set 250 grammes of powdered
nutgalls in half a litre of alcohol of eighty-two
degrees, and warm by gentle heat for twenty-
four hours; then mix ninety-eight gr. of sul.
phate of iron in a litre and a half of pure water;
strain the two liquids through a cloth separately,
then mix them, let them stand for eight days,
and strain them again. This ink leaves no de-
posit, nor does it get mouldy, and is more solid
than any employed.

INK'(Im/ia ), T 0 Remove the MIME qf on the
Flesh—Blister the part with a plaster a little
larger than the mark; then keep the place open
with an ointment for a week; finally, dress it
to get well. As the new skin grows, the tattoo
will disappear.

INR’, Indelible Pn'ntz'ng.—This is made by
mixing I pound varnish (such as is used for
ordinary printing ink), I pound black sulphuret
of mercury, I ounce nitrate of silver, I ounce
sulphate of iron, 2 tablespoonfuls lampblack.
Thoroughly grind together, adding enough tur-
pentine to reduce to the requisite consistency.

INTEREST, New Rule for Computing.—
This rule is so simple and so correct, that every
banker, merchant or clerk should post it up for
reference:

Sz’xper Cent—Multiply any given number of

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

dollars by the number of days of interest desired,
separate the right hand figure and divide by six;
the result is the true interest on such number of
days at six per cent.

Egg/1t per Cent—Multiply an given amount
by the number of days upon wfi’ich it is desired
to ascertain the interest, and divide by 45, and
the result will be the true interest for the time
required.

T en per Cent—Multiply the same as above,
and divide by 36, and the result will show the
interest at ten per cent.

IR 01V and COPPER, Delicate 7e:tfbr.—The
alcoholic tincture of logwood will produce a blue
or bluish-black tint in water which has been run
through iron or co per pipes, when neither tinc-
ture of galls, sulp ocyanide, nor the ferrid and
ferrocyanides of potassium show any reaction.

ISINGLASS GLUE, To Abba—This is
made by dissolving beaten isin lass in water by
boiling, and having strained it t rough a coarse
linen cloth, evaporating it again to such a con-
sistence, that, being cold, the glue will be per-
fectly hard and dry.

A great improvement is made in this glue by
adding spirit of wine or brandy after it is strained,
and then renewing the evaporation till it gains
the due consistence.

I V 0R Y, A rtz'fieial.—-—The inventor, Mr. Mar-
quardt, dissolves two ounds of pure rubber in
thirty-two pounds of chloroform, and hereupon
saturates the solution with a current of ammonia
gas. When the rubber has been completely
bleached, the admission of the gas is interrupted,
and the mass is transferred into a vessel, pro-
vided with a stirrer, in which it is washed with
hot water until the bleaching agent has been
entirely removed. During this 0 eration, the
temperature may be increased to 1 5° F ahr., in
order to evaporate the chloroform, which, by
conducting it into an apparatus of condensation,
may again be made use of. The remaining
product forms a kind of froth, which, being
pressed out, dried, and again treated with a
small quantity of chloroform, is finally obtained
as a consistent paste. The paste is now mixed
with a sufficient quantity of finel pulverized
phosphate of lime, or carbonate 0 zinc, until it
assumes the appearance of moist flour. In this
condition it is pressed in hot moulds, which it
leaves sufficiently hard to be turned, planed,
filed, and bored. In order to imitate corals,
pearls, enamels, hard woods, .etc., it is only
necessary to mix the paste with the desired
colors previously to its being compressed.

IVORY, T o Bleach—A new process for
bleaching ivory when it has assumed a dirty
yellow color, consists in first soaking the pieces
for two days in a solution of one-half pound
carbonate of soda and two pounds of water; then,
after rinsing in cold water, transferring the
pieces to a solution of three-quarters of a pound
sulphate of soda in two pounds of water, and
leaving them for five or six hours. While soak-
ing in this solution, one ounce of hydrochloric
acid in four ounces of water is added and tho-
roughly mixed, the pieces usually, . two days
after, resuming their whiteness; repetition of the
process being sometimes, however, necessary.

I VORY. Dyer fan—Bladz— Immerse the
ivory in aboiling solution of logwood, take it
out and wash it in a solution of copperas.—-—Blm.‘
~Immerse the ivory in a mixture of sulphate ot

MISCELLANEO US.

indigo and water, partly neutralized with potash.
—Grem.—Steep blued ivory in a solution of
nitromuriate of tin, and then in a decoction of
fustic; or it may be at once dyed green by steep-
ing it in a solution of acetate of copper.— Yellow.
—Steep the ivory in a bath of neutral chromate
of potash, and afterwards in a boiling solution of
acetate of lead.—Rea’.——Steep the ivory for a
short time in a solution of tin, thenin a decoction
of Brazil or cochineal. —-Violet. —Moisten the
ivory with a solution of tin, as before, then im-
merse it in a decoction _of logwood.

IVORY, BONE and HORJV, To Impart
a Beautiful Red Color Ira—Take four parts of
picric acid and dissolve in two hundred and fifty
parts of boiling water; when cold add eight parts
of liq. ammoniae. Dissolve also two parts of
magenta (crystals) in forty-five parts of alcohol,
dilute with three hundred and sevent -five parts
of hot water, and add fifty parts 0 ammonia.
As soon as the red color of the magenta solution
has disappeared, the two solutions are mixed
together, making a bulk of Ii uid amountin to
about half a litre. Ivor an bone shoul be
fplaced in very weak nitric or hydrochloric acid

rst, before being immersed in the ammoniacal
li uid; wood cannot be dyed in this liquid unless
it as been previously painted over with aste
made from flour. If to the ammoniacal liquid
some gelatine solution is added, it may serve as
a red ink which does not attack steel pens. By
varying the proportions of the magenta and pic-
ric acid, the tints obtained may be varied from a
bluish red to a bright orange red. The desired
colors do not appear till the ammonia is evapor-
ated.

IVORY, T a Scflm.—In three ounces of spir-
its of nitre, and 15 of spring-water, mixed to-
gether, put your ivory a soaking. And in 3 or
4 days it will be soft so as to obey your fingers.

I V 01? Y, To Silvan—Immerse a small slip of
ivory in a weak solution of nitrate of silver, and
let it remain till the solution has given it a deep
yellow color; then take it out and immerse it in
a tumbler of clear water, and expose it in the
water to the rays of the sun. In about 3 hours
the ivory acquires a black color; but the black
surface on being rubbed soon becomes changed
to a brilliant silver.

I V OR Y, T ramparmtr—The rocess for mak-
ing ivory transparent and flexib e is simply im~
mersion in liquid phosphoric acid, and the change
which it undergoes is owing to a partial neu-
tralization of the basic phosphate of lime, of
which it principally consists. The ivory is cut
in pieces not thicker than the twentieth art of
an inch, and placed in phosphoric acid ofP a spe-
cific gravity of I. 131, until it has become trans-

arent, when it is taken from the bath, washed
in water, and dried with a clean linen cloth. It
becomes dry in the air without the application
of heat, and softens again under warm water.

I V01? Y, To W/zitm.-—Slake some lime in
water; put your ivory in that water, after being
decanted from the grounds, and boil it till it
looks quite white. To polish it afterwards, set
it in the turner’s wheel; and, after having work-
ed, take rushes and umice-stones, subtile ow-
der, with water, an rub it till it looks per ectly
smooth. Next to that, heat it by turning it
against a piece of linen or shee skin leather; and,
when hot, rub it over with a little whitening di-
luted in oil of olive; then, with a little dry

 

481

whitening alone; finally with a piece of soft white
rag. When all this is erformed as directed, the
ivory will look very w lite.

Dr. Artus has recentl published a process for
whitening ivory, which he specially recommends
for the finger pieces of pianos ; but it is also ap-
plicable t6 all articles made of this material,
which is so apt to change its color. After lying
some days in a solution of carbonate of soda, the
pieces must be thoroughly washed in clear water
and again placed in a bath com osed of three-
quarters o a pound of sulphite o soda dissolved
in two gallons of water, in which they must re-
main five or six hours. Then, without taking
them from the bath, a mixture of one ounce of
chlorhydric acid and four ounces of water must ’
be added to it. In this, after shaking it well and
recovering the vessel, they must remain thirty-
six hours. The solution is then thrown off and
the ivory washed as before in clean water. If
not as white as desired the operation must be
repeated. The quantity of the solution that has
been indicated is sufficient to whiten a pound of
war .

.768 T, To Clam—Use the softest brush that
can be procured, to remove the dust in the most
gentle manner from the carving, and then touch
the jet with a little good oil on a bit of cotton
wool, and polish with swash-leather. The pro-
cess requires the greatest care, as the carving
makes the jet so brittle.

I?! T E, flow In Malia—Among the various
kinds the “three-stick kite” is probably the sur-
est for the beginner. , Get three light, thin,
straight sticks, of cedar, pine, or similar wood ;
smooth them, and let them be about half an inch
wide by an eighth thick; perhaps a little more.
Make two of them 30 inches long, and the third
20 inches. Mark 3. point 10 inches from the end
of each of the long sticks, and in the middle of
the short one; cross the three sticks at these
points, and tie them firmly with twine. Cut
notches lengthwise across the ends of the sticks,
and tie a strong twine from end to end, making
the outline of an irregular six-sided figure, of
which the bottom may be 16 inches long; the
sides about 18%; the shoulders II, and the top
8 inches. These numbers may vary; it is nec-
essary only that the corresponding sides should
be exactly alike or the kite will not be well bal-
anced. This finishes the frame.

Now lay down a sheet of strong, light paper,
place the" frame upon it, and cut the pa er about.
two inches larger than the frame, a 1 round.
Fold the outside over the strings, and paste:
down with good boiled flour paste, cutting out
the corners where they overla .

The next thing is to hang the kite. Measure-
from each lower corner five inches along the»
sticks; make a small hole on each side of the
stick through the paper, and tie in the ends of a
string, which shall measure, when tied, about.
[4 inches from stick to stick. This is the lower
loop. In like manner tie an up er loo , about.
8 inches long, to points about 3 inches rom the-
upper end of the same stick. Remember to have
the loops on the face side of the kite; that is,
the side on which the sticks are not seen. Join.
the middles of the two loops by a string about
20 inches long; this is the belly-band. Hang,
the kite by the belly-band over your finger, and
hold it so that when one end of the kite touches
the floor, the other may be about a. foot above

3]

482

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

it; there is the place to tie the line, making it
fast so that it will not slip. When the kite floats
in the air, it should lie at an angle of about 45
degrees; if it stands too straight, the string is
fastened too low on the belly-band; if too flat,
the string is not low enough.

The kite must have a tail to balance it. If the
tail is too heavy, the kite will not raise it ; if too
light, or if too short, the kite will not “stand”
steadily, but will dive from side to side. VVhen-
ever it does that, it should be taken in, and more
weight added to the tail. Cut pieces of writing
paper, 4 inches wide and 6 or 8 long; fold back
and forth fan-like, and tie 3 inches apart on a
string, until you have made 3 or 4 yards. Then
cut a quantity of strips half an inch wide, and 12
or 14. inches long; tie the bunch of them by the
middle, fold the ends together and tie again,
making a tassel, which you may tie to the end
of the tail. If the strips are of colored tissue
paper, all the gayer. Tie a string about twenty
inches long to the two lower corners of the kite,
and fasten the tail to the middle of it. Choose
a smooth, close, well spun string, linen is best
—and costs most—not too large, or its weight
will make it “sag,” nor too small, or the kite
will fly away with it. Finally, don’t try to fly
a kite when the wind don’t blow.

Now, just as each of your good mothers thinks
she has a recipe for making cookies which she
thinks is a little better than any other, so every
boy who has experience in kite-making thinks
his way is rather the best, and quite likely he
may find fault with some of our proportions.
If so, he has perfect liberty to change them to
his liking. The important items are: the kite
must be truly made, so that one side mayjust
balance the other; it must hang at the proper
angle to the wind; and the tail must be rightly
proportioned in weight and length to the size of
the kite.

If the kite don’t behave well at first, think
which of these items has not been' carefully
attended to, and correct. Don’t give up at the
first trial.

LAMP WI CK S, Home-Made.—A lamp wick,
equally good with those we buy, may be made
out of canton flannel. Take a strip three times
as wide as you wish the wick to be, and as long
as you like. Fold it with the fleecy side in, so
that it will have three thicknesses, and baste or
overcast it up the side. Almost every house-
keeper has bits of canton flannel which would be
used for nothing else, and it saves quite a little
item of expense, to say nothing of the convenience
of being able to make a new lamp wick, when-
ever it is needed.

LAAD, T a Drain.—A strong metal pipe,
about 20 feet in length and 6 inches in diameter,
is adjusted in a slanting position over the lot to
be drained. To an opening in the bottom of this
pipe, another is firmly jointed, inclining back-
wards at an angle sufficient to allow of its end
resting on the ground lot. Connected with the
principal pipe, is a strong canvas hose, down
which a current of water descends, and issues at
the mouth of the pipe. In its course, it forms a
vacuum in the second pipe, and the water is thus
sucked up and discharged with the current flow-
ing through the principal pipe. This device is
in use, for the purpose described, in Australia,
but is known to most men practically acquainted
‘ with hydraulics.

 

LEA D( W/zite), T a T est—Take a pine sliver,
put some of the lead on the end of it, set it on
fire; if pure, you will see the small shots of lead
drop from it; if a white incrustation, you may
know it is not pure. Rub this on a clean white
paper; if any lead is present it will black the
paper; if no lead is present it will be a pale,
sulphur color.

LEA VES (Autumn), T oPrestn/a—The beau-
tiful colors of the leaves at this season are indi-
cative of the first stage of decay. If rapidly dried,
the process may be arrested and the fine colors
preserved. Dry as quickly as possible, by putting
the leaves between folds of any very absorbent
paper, and change frequently—as often as once
a day. A warm flat-iron judiciously used will
help the drying, but overheating will spoil all.
When the leaves are quickly and thoroughly
dried, they will retain their colors for some months.
In making up ornamental work, the leaves
should have a light coat of boiled linseed oil.
This brings out the color and gives a more natural
appearance than varnish of any kind. For fast-
ening them to card board or any other support,
glue is best. Do not oil the under sides of the
leaves, as this will prevent the glue from adhering.

LEA T HER, Brmzzz'ngfbr.—A small amount
of so-called insoluble (in water) aniline viOlet is
dissolved in a little water, and the solution is
brushed over the articles; it will dry quickly,
and perhaps may have to be repeated.

LEA THER, To Gz'ld.——In order to impress
gilt figures, letters, and other marks upon leath4
er, as on the covers of books, edgings for doors,
etc., the leather must first be dusted over with _
very finely powdered yellow resin or mastic gum.
The iron tools or stamps are now arranged on a
rack before a clear fire, so as to be well heated,
without becoming red hot. If the tools are let-
ters, they have an alphabetical arrangement on
the rack. Each letter or stamp must be tried,
as to its heat, by imprinting its mark on the raw
side of a piece of waste leather. A little practice
will enable the workman to judge of the heat.
The tool is now to be pressed downwards on the
gold~leaf, which will of course be indented, and
show the figure imprinted on it. The next letter
or stamp is now to be taken and stamped in like
manner, and so on with the others, taking care
to kee the letters in an even line with each
other, like those in a book. By this operation
the resin is melted, consequent] the gold ad-
heres to the leather. The super uous gold may
then be rubbed off by a cloth, the gilded impres-
sions remaining on the leather. In this, as in
every other operation, adroitness is acquired by
practice.

The cloth alluded to should be slightly greasy,
to retain the gold wi ed off (otherwise there Will
be great waste in a fgw months); the cloth will
thus be soon completely saturated or loaded with
the gold, When this is the case, these cloths are
generally sold to the refiners, who burn them and
recover the gold. Some of these afford so much
gold by burning as to be worth from seven to ten
dollars.

LEA TIIER (PA TENT) GOODS, Polish
flm—Take half a pound of molasses or sugar,
one ounce of gum-arabic, and two pounds of ivo-
ry black; boil them well together, then let the
vessel stand until quite cooled, and the contents
are settled; after which bottle off. This is an ex-
cellent reviver, and may be used as a blacking in

MISCELLANEOUS.

483

 

the ordinary way, no brushes for polishing being

re uire .

321611 T S, Ben al.——Take of nitrate of pot-
assa (saltpetre), parts; sublimed sulphur 4
parts, and antimony I part, and let them be well
mixed in powder and beat firml into a stout
iron cup, and set on fire; and if a ittle camphor
be added it is still more brilliant. Such lights
are made use of for communicating at a great
distance by sea at night.

LIGHT PIIIAL.——Dry phosphorus, I part;
olive oil, 6 parts. Put them into a phial, cork
it, and place it in warm water for two or three
hours. For use, pull out the cork, and sufficient
light will be emitted to enable you to see the
time by a watch. One bottle will last for years
if well corked as soon' as used. Ether may be
employed instead of olive oil.

LOGS muz’PLAzV/t'S, T u Prevent file Split-
ting ofl—Logs and planks split at the ends be-
cause the exposed surface dries faster than the
inside. Saturate muriatic acid with lime, and
apply like whitewash to the ends. The chloride
of calcium formed attracts moisture from the air,
and prevents the splitting.

LOVAGE.——Lovage root (fresh), I pound;
valerian, X pound; celery, )4 pound; sweet
fennel, % pound; caraway seeds, I ounce;
cassia, I ounce; proof—spirit, {2 gallons. Ma-
cerate fora week, then add loaf-sugar, 20 pounds,
dissolved in water, [0 gallons. Mix and fine.

L UAIBER, Fad: admit—That drying lumber
does not season it, and seasoning lumber is not
drying it. That any amount of common air
drying does not necessarily (if ever) produce a
thorough shrinkage, even though the time be a
hundred years. That time has nothing to do
with either seasoning, shrinking or drying, but
is alone the result of condition and heat. That
lumber may be thoroughly seasoned without be-
ing either dried or shrunk.

That lumber may be made as dry asdesired,
and yet not be seasoned at all, and with only a
partial or very slight shrinkage.
air never seasons lumber (though it dries it),
and can never more than partially shrink the
wood. That seasoning, shrinking and drying
are each separate and distinct operations, and in
most cases do not depend at all upon each other.
That they are all necessary, though not in the
same degree. That the order of their value to
the wood is in the order named; the seasoning
being of the greatest, and the drying of the least

value.

MA 016' COPYLVG PAPER—To make
black paper, lampblack mixed with cold lard;
Red paper, Venetian Red mixed with lard;
Green paper, Chrome Green mixed with lard;
Blue paper, Prussian Blue mixed with lard. The
above ingredients to be mixed to the consistency
of thick paste, and to be applied to the paper
with a. rag. Then take a flannel rag and rub till
all color (ceases coming off. Cut your sheets
four inches wide, and six inches long, put four
sheets together, one of each color, and sell for
twenty-five cents per package. The first cost
will not be over three cents. Directions for
writingz—Lay down your paper upon which you
Wish to write; then lay on the copying paper, and
over this lay any scrap of paper you choose;
then take any hard pointed substance and write
as on would with pen. ‘

1V USCRIPT, Prqaaraz‘zhn of: -— I. See

That common .

 

that the manuscript is perfect before it is placed
in the hands of the compositor. Time is charged
on all corrections, alterations, and additions
made in the proof, which are not in the original
copy. A very little change takes up more time
than is generally supposed. The insertion or
removal of a word or two may require the over-
running of every line in a long paragraph; the
adding or taking out of a sentence, the overrun-
ning of every page set up, which follows it. All
this can be avoided by having the manuscript
carefully prepared.

2. It is desirable that the manuscript should
be written in a plain distinct hand, in order to
insure correctness and avoid delay. The time
work charged on a badly-prepared manuscript
will often exceed the cost of having it fairly
copied by a clerk.

3. Write on one side of the paper only, and
page the whole. Leave a wide margin, on which
can be written directions for the compositor and
minor corrections. Marginal corrections are
preferable to interlineations. When they are too
long to go in the margin, write them on a sepa-
rate piece of paper, marking it with the page,
and indicating on the page the place where it is
to be inserted. W'rite on the margin the amount
of space, if any, desired between paragraphs or
divisions, for the insertion of additional authori-
ties, etc.

4. Attend to your own punctuation, marking
each point distinctly. Remember the old craft
pun, that “compositors are setters, not pointers”
—-their duty is to “follow copy.” The whole
force of a paragraph may be destroyed by care-
less punctuation.

5. Write on a separate page exactly what you
want on the cover, the number of copies wanted,
and the style selected.

6. Make a final careful revision of the manu-
script before handing it in.

7. Authors should always make the beginning
of a new paragraph conspicuous to the composi-
tor, by indenting the first line of it far enough
to distinguish it from the preceding line in case
it should be quite full. '

8. When copy is put into the hands of the
compositor he should receive directions respect-
ing the width and length of the page; whether
it is to be leaded, and with white lines between
the breaks; and whether any particular method
is to be followed in the punctuation and in the
adoption of capitals.

MANUSCRIPT, Estimate ry‘I—A tolerably
close estimate of the words contained in even
bad manuscript may be made by counting the
lines of say twelve of its varying pages, then
getting an average per line of the words in sev-
eral lines taken from each page, and multiplying
the number of the former by,that of the latter.
Next add the average allowance for chapter lines,
sub-heads, and other than break lines, counting
them as full lines. Reduce the break lines to
full lines, adding them to the whole, and you
have the contents of twelve ages. Divide by
twelve to find the contents 0 a single (average)
pa e.

Example.-A work of 400 pages in manuscript
is submitted. Twelve averaged pages, taken at
intervals, give an average of 30 lines to a folio.
Three lines taken at various places from each of
these twelve pages indicate an average of eleven
words to a line. This will give about 330 words

484

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

to a page, exclusive of breaks, chapter, and oth-
er lines, for which an allowance is made of four
lines, or 44 words, for each page of manuscript,
which, added to 330, makes 374. Multiply the
374 words per page by the 400 pages in the ma-
nuspi-ipt, and you have a result of 149,600 words
in a .

To know how many pages of printed matter
this will make, it is now necessary to have the
size of type and page to be used. An exact
printed page, containing the one and representing
the other, is always a good guide in completing
the calculation, which is done by dividing the
number of words contained in the manuscript,
by that of the printed page. This will give the
desired cast-off for the work in printed pages.

Thus, the estimate of the manuscript gives
149,600 words; that of the printed page, of the
size required—set up in leaded long-primer, we
will say, for example,—gives 480 words; conse—
quently 149,600 divided by 480 gives 312 pages,
or 20 signatures, if printed in octave. .

When extra, or more than single, “leading”
of matter is required, count the extra leads (six-
to-pica being the size most used in book compo-
sition) in the following proportions: three fora
nonpareil line; four for brevier and bourgeois;
five for long-primer and small-pica; six for pica;-
and so on, increasing or diminishing in the
necessary ratio for larger or lesser sizes.

For works under 144 pages, the cast-off of
which does not reach a number of folios divisible
by 4, there should be added the number that will
make it so. Thus, no will be counted as 112;
133 as I 36; and so on. A sufficient allowance
of pages,'added in the same way, should be made
in cast-offs for larger works, adopting 8 or 12 as
the even dividing number. This rule applies
more particularly to works where the copy is
very irregular or much crowded with abbre-
viations and closely written notes, alterations,
interlines, etc.

IVA P C 0LORS.——Blue. A weak mixture of
sulphate of indigo and water, to which add a
little guni.—-G'rcm. I. Diss'olve crystals of ver-
digris in water, and add alittle gum.—2. Dis-
solve sap green in water and add gum.-—]t‘al. I.
Make a decoction of Brazil dust in vinegar, and
add a little gum and alum.—2. Make an infusion
of cochineal and add a little gum.— Yellow. I.
Dissolve gamboge in water.—2. Make a decoc-
tion of French berries, strain, and add a little
gum arabic.

III/1P VARNISHES.—A very good varnish
for covering over architectural drawings, maps,
etc., can be made by dissolving one pound of
white shellac, a quarter of a pound of camphor
and two ounces of Canada balsam in one gallon
of alcohol.

The following method affords also a good,
quick-drying varnish. Thin down Canada balsam
with turpentine, and add one—fourth of. the bulk
of quick-drying, pale copal varnish; lay on
smoothly with a flat camel’s hair brush, and let
the map lie flat for a few hours.

[MARBLE AND GLA SS, To Polls/r. —
Marble of any kind, alabaster, and hard stone,
or glass, may be repolished by rubbing it with a
linen cloth dressed with oxide of tin (sold under
the name of putty powder). For this purpose, a
couple or more folds of linen should be fastened
tight over a piece of wood, flat or otherwise,
according to the form of the stone. To repolish

 

a mantelpiece, it should be first perfectly cleaned.
This is best done by making a paste of lime,
soda, and water, wetting well the marble, and
applying the paste. Then let it remain for a day
or so, keeping it moist during the interval.
When this paste has been removed, the olishing
may begin. Chips in the marble s ould be
rubbed out first with emery and water. At every
stage of polishing, the linen and putty powder
must be kept constantly wet. Glass, such as
jewelers’ show counter-cases, which becomes
scratched, may be polished in the same way.

MARBLE, To Clean—I. Brush the dust
off the piece to be cleaned, then apply with a
brush a good coat of gum arabic, about the con-
sistency of a thick office mucilage, ex ose it to
the sun or dry wind, or both. In a s ort time
it will crack and peel off. If all the gum should
not peel off, wash it with clean water and a clean
cloth. Of course, if the first application does
not have the desired effect, it should be applied
again.—-2. Make a paste with soft soap and whi-
ting. ‘ Wash the marble first with it, and then
leave a coat of the paste upon it for two or three
days. Afterwards wash off with warm (not hot)
water and soap.—3. Chalk. (in fine powder), I
part; pumice, I part; common soda, 2 parts.
Mix. Wash the spots with this powder, mixed
with a little water, then clean the whole of the
stone, and wash off with soap and water.

MARBLE (A n’zfirz’al), for Paper Wag/Its.—
Soak plaster of Paris in a solution of alum; bake
it in an oven, and then grind it to a powder.
In using, mix it with water, and to produce the
clouds and veins, stir in any dry color you Wish;
this will become very hard and is susceptible of
a very high polish.

MA 1381,13, To C zrt zmo’ Polish—The marble
saw is a thin plate of soft iron, continually sup-
plied, during its sawing motion, with water and
the sharpest sand. The sawing of moderate
pieces is performed by hand; but that of large
slabs is most economically done by a proper
mill. The first substance used in the polishing
process is the sharpest sand, which must be
worked with till the surface becomes perfectly
flat. Then a second, and even a third sand, of
increasing fineness, is to be applied. The next
substance is emery, of progressive degrees of
fineness; after which, tripoli is employed: and
the last polish is given with tin putty. The body
with which the sand is rubbed upon the marble
is usuallya plate of iron; but, for the subsequent
process, a. plate of lead is used, with fine sand
and emery. The polishing-rubbers are coarse
linen cloths, or bagging, wedged tight into an
iron planing-tool. In every step of the opera-
tion, a constant trickling supply of water is re-
quired.

MARBLE, Colorrfbr Siaz'ning.——It is neces.
sary to heat the marble hot, but not so hot as to
injure it, the proper heat being that at which the
colors nearly boil. Blue ; alkaline indigo dye,
or turnsole with alkali. Red; dragon’s blood
in spirits of wine. Yellow; gamboge in spirits
of wine. Cold Color; sal-ammoniac, sulphate
of zinc, and verdigris, equal parts. Green; sap
green, in spirits of potash. Brown ; tincture of
logwood. C rz'mron ; alkanet root in turpentine.
Marble may be veined according to taste. To
stain marble well is a difficult operation.

AIA T CHES, To [Volga—I. Chlorate of pot-
ash and flowers of sulphur, each 10 parts; ver-

MISCELLANEOUS.

milion, 2 parts. Oil of turpentine to mix. Dip
the ends of the matches previously sulphured
and steeped in tur entine into this paste and
d .-——2. Chlorateo potash, 10 parts; sugar and
s hur, each 3 parts; wheat flour and vermilion,
each 1 part. Spirit to mix. For use, dip them
into the instantaneous light bottles.-—-3. Dip the
end of the wood in hot melted sulphur and let it
dry. To 4 parts of melted glue, add _while hot
1 part of phosphorus and stir in whiting to the
desired thickness, color with lampblack; dipping
in this mixture, which is to be kept hot by being
suspended over a fire or lamp.—4. About the
best known preparation for friction matches con-
sists of gum arabic, 16 parts by weight; phos-
phorus, 9 parts; nitre, 14. parts; peroxide of
manganese, in powder, 16 parts. The gum is
first made into a mucilage with water, then the
manganese, then the phos horns, and the whole
is heated to about 130 g. Fah. When the
phosphorus is melted the nitre is added, and the
whole is thoroughly stirred.

MA TTING and OILCLOTII, To Brighten.
——Wash it twice during the summer with salt
and water, say about a pint of salt, dissolved in
half a pailful of warm, soft water, drying the
matting quickly with a soft cloth. The salt will
prevent it from turning yellow. Another plan
is, after the oilcloth is scrubbed and dried, to
rub it all over with a cloth dipped in milk. This
will bring the colors out very bright.

MEASURES, T aéle of.—A barrel contains
40 gallons, of 231 cubic inches each, or 9240
cubic inches.

The United States standard bushel is the
Winchester; its regular dimensions are a cylin-
der of 18.5 inches, interior diameter, and 8
inches deep; its cubic contents are, therefore,
9.25 x 9.25 x 3.1416x8, or nearly 2150.5 cubic
inches.

The United States standard gallon measures
231 cubic inches; consequently a box, 24 inches
by 24 inches square, and 16 inches deep, will
contain 9232 cubic inches, or nearl a barrel.

A box, 17% by 15 inches, and inches deep,
will contain 2130 cubic inches, or nearly a bushel.

A box, 14% by 10 inches, and 7% inches
deep, will contain 1075 cubic inches, or half a
bushel.

A box, 8 by 8 inches square, and 85/” inches
deep, will contain 538 cubic inches, or a peck,
very near.

A box, 7 by 8 inches, and 4% inches deep,
will contain 231 cubic inches, or a gallon exactly.

A box, 6 by 6 inches square, and 3% inches
dee , will contain 117 cubic inches, or nearly
ha] a gallon, (of 115% cubic inches.)

A box, 4 by 4 inches square, and 3% inches
deep, will contain 56 cubic inches, or nearly a
pint, (of 57% cubic inches.)

MICE, To Get Rid (pf—To get rid of mice,
use tartar emetic, mingled with any favorite food;
they take it, get sick, and take their leave.

[ll] CR OS C OPE , [lame-Marla—A simple mi-
croscope may be made out of a common pill-
box for a few cents. Take out the bottom and
put in a piece of window-glass; then paint the
inside black, and make a small eye-hole in the
lid. In this hole place a single drop of Ca-
nadian balsam, and allow it to cool. This drop
of the transparent resin assumes, when cooling,
the proper form of the glass lens, with consider-
able magnifying power.

 

485

M1 CROS C 01°] CA L 03:71? C TS, Mounting
Fluid/br.—Best gelatine, 1 02., honey, 5 02.,
distilled water, 5 02., rectified spirit, % 02.,
creosote, 6 drops. Dissolve the gelatine in the
water by heat, and add to it the honey, reviously
made boiling hot. When cooled a litt 6, add the
creosote dissolved in the spirit, and, while still
hot, filter through coarse filtering paper, or fine
flannel. For use, the bottle in which it is con.
tained may be set in a vessel of hot water.

MILK (Good), Composition of.—-Milk is a
fluid of white, yellowish-white, or bluish-white
color, consisting largely of water, and holding
in solution or suspension butter, sugar of milk,
caseine, and certain salts. These substances
are found generally in all unadulterated milk in
constant proportions, except in cases of milk of
cows diseased. The sum of the solid con-
stituents, however, varies with the feed, stock,
and condition of the animal: it should never
fall below 12 per cent., ranging generally be-
tween 12 and 15 per cent., the rest being water.
The composition may be assumed as follows :—

Butter ..... . . . . . 3.60 to 4.8 per cent.
Caseine .. . . . . . .3.8o “ 4.2 “
Sugar of milk . . .4.2 “- 4.5 “
Salts ........... 0.6 “ o. “

12.2 14.3

There are cases, as in the Alderney breed, where
the solids will rise as high as 16 and 17 per cent. ;
the butter as high as 9 per cent. ; but such milk
is never found in the market, being consumed
altogether by the owners of the animals. On
the other hand, there may be found milk, as in
fresh milch cows, where the solids will go down
to 10 per cent., the butter to 3; these are the
extreme minimum limits, below which we should
pronounce milk adulterated.

MILK, To Detect when Adultemttd.—The
cheapest and easiest method of adulterating milk
is by adding water, and we may readily ascertain
the exact extent of adulteration by the following
plan. If a glass tube, divided into 100 parts,
be filled with milk and left standing for 24 hours,
the cream will rise to the upper part of the tube,
and occupy from 11 to 13 divisions, if the milk
is genuine.

MILDEW—This term is generally a plied
to a particular moldy appearance on the leaves
of plants, which is produced by innumerable
minute fun ', which, if not checked in their
growth, wi l occasion the decay and death of
the parts on which they grow, and sometimes
of the entire plant. In agriculture this appear-
ance is frequently termed rust, and sometimes
blight. It is common on wheat and on the hops;
andvin gardens on the leaves of the peach, the
nectarine, and other fruit trees. The causes
favorable to the production of mildew, are a rich
soil and a moist atmosphere, without a free cir-
culation of air or sunshine. In agriculture this
parasitical disease is generally considered with-
out remedy; but in gardening it may be checked
by the application of powdered sulphur to the
leaves covered by the fungi, which is found to
destroy them without greatly injuring the leaf.
gryl rot is only mildew of a more formidable

n .

MIRRORS, Platim'zetl.——Much interest has
been excited by the new method of constructing
mirrors, invented by Dodé, of France, in which
the chloride of platinum is used as a basis. For

486

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY—DAY WANTS.

 

this purpose the glass plate, after being cleaned,
is set upright, and the metallizing liquid applied
with a brush, first from above downward, then
from right to left, and so on alternately until a
perfectly uniform coating is laid on. The pla-
tinizing liquid is prepared by dissolving 1550
grains of very thin rolled platinum in aqua regia,
and carefully evaporating the solution obtained
in a sand-bath, and drying, so as to prevent the
chloride of platinum from becoming decomposed.
It is then spread out upon a. glass muller, and
rectified oil of lavender added, little by little,
with continued rubbing. Care must be taken
not to add the oil too quickly, as otherwise too
great an increase of temperature may result, and
thus destroy the preparation. After the addition
of about fourteen times as much oil of lavender
as of the platinum used, the mixture is to be
placed in apo-rcelain dish, and allowed to remain
perfectly quiet for I4 days, after which the liquid
is to be poured off and filtered. After six days
more of rest the li uid is to be decanted, and
should then show ve degrees upon the acid
gauge of Baume’. To the quantity of platinum
just mentioned about 400 grains of litharge and
as much of borate of lead are to be added, the
two substances being first rubbed up with 120
to I 50 grains of oil of lavender, and then united
as speedily as possible with the platinum liquid,
after which it is ready for use, as mentioned.
The coating of oil mixture thus applied is allow-
ed to dry gradually, and the glass plate thus
prepared is then to be introduced into a muflle
of peculiar construction, in which the resinous
substances are decomposed and converted into
carbon, without melting or developing any bub-
bles, the remainder constituting a perfect plati-
num surface. Mirrors thus prepared have a high
degree of lustre; and as the reflection is from
the anterior face, it is immaterial what the char-
acter of the glass is, provided the surface be
perfectly smooth and free from striae, or, indeed,
whether it be transparent at all. This constitutes
a great advantage over the ordinary method,
where the transparency of the glass is an object
of prime importance. Glass mirrors of this kind
are translucent when held against the light, and
may consequently be used to advantage in form~
ing screens for windows of rooms, and inclosed
spaces in offices and stores where it is desirable
to be able to look out without difficulty, while
at the same time concealed from the view of
those on the other side. For this, however, it
will be necessary that there be no window or
other free opening opposite the platefglass in
question. It is said that the cost of platinum
sufficient to prepare ten square feet of glass does
not exceed twent cents.

[MOLD Y SUBSTANCES in Rams.— It
has long been known that the presence of molds
in rooms is highly injurious to human health;
under certain conditions of dampness and bad
ventilation, it v is no uncommon thing to see
mildew run all over a large expanse of white-
washed wall or ceiling. If this mold occur in a
living room, and it be not destroyed, it frequently
brings on a complication of painful symptoms in
the human patient, or, in other words, the mem-
branes and tissues of the body are known to offer
a fittin habitat for the plant, and it is transferred
from t 6 original objects to the human frame.
A weak solution of hypo-chlorite of lime (bleach-
ing powder) has recently been recommended as

 

a destroyer of molds in rooms, and as their
growth is- both common and rapid in this country
in damp and ill-ventilated situations, the remedy
is worth a trial.

MOLDING Figures in Park—Take the
crumbs of a new-drawn white loaf, mold it until
it becomes as close as wax, and very pliable;
then beat it and roll it with a rolling-pin, as fine
andas farasit will go; then point it on molds, and,
when it has taken the suitable figure you desire,
dry it in a stove, and it will be very hard; and
to preserve it from vermin, you may mix a little
powder of aloes with it.

MOLDIIVG Small legun: in 7dr?” Color.
—Oil your molds with a fine pencil, and diver-
sify them with such colors as you please with
gum tragacanth ; if they spread or run, puta little
of the gall of an ox, for the thicker it is the
harder it will be; then mold your paste of the
color of jasper, or the like, put it in to fill the
mold, tie it with a wire, bake it, or take it out,
repair and varnish it, and set it by to harden.

MOLDING FiguresrfClay or Wax.—There
is no need of many tools in this sort of work; the
clay is placed upon an easel or table, and you
begin and finish the work with your hands.
Those who are used to it never make use of
anything but their fingers, except three or four
pieces of wood, which are .roundish at one end,
at the other flat, with a sort of claws and teeth,
called by the French, elamlwir—that is, a sort
of hatchet; they are about seven or eight inches
in length; thdse, with claws are to smooth the
stuff; the others, which have teeth, to scratch it.

They are made of wax thus: Take a pound of
wax, half a pound of ocher, some add turpentine,
and melt it together with oil of olives; put more
or less, according as you would have the matter
harder or softer; a little vermilion also should be
mixed with it to give it a softer color. When
you have made the composition, the figure is
worked up with the hand, and those elmtclwin
made use of in making up the earthen figures.
Practice is the principal mistress in this sort of
work, which, at first, is not so easy as that in
cla . i
ll! OLDIN G tlw Fare 13f a Pen-on in III/ax.—
Take a pound of new wax, a third of colophony,
melt them at a slow fire, let them cool so long
as that you may endure some of it on your hand
without burning it; then having oiled the face
with olive oil, cover the hair of the eye-lids and
eyebrows with paste; then with a brush nimbly
cover the face about the thickness of _a quarter
of a dollar, being careful not to stop the nos-
trils, and that the person squeeze not his eyes
together, because that will render the face de-
formed.

Thus, having the face of wax, take it off gently
and strengthen it with clay on the back side,
that it may not give way. After this manner
you may cast all sorts of faces ; laughing, weeping,
grimaces, or wry faces; also fruits or anything
else, dividing the mold into two pieces with a
warm knife; then fortify them with clay and join
them together.

There is no way of casting neater than this
with wax, and after a very little practice you
can become very expert at the business,

MOLD in SA FES, T a Prevent—By the pla-
cing of a small lump of camphor in the safe, the
accumulation of mold upon money, papers,
books, etc. , will be prevented.

MISCELLANEOUS.

MUCILA GE for Labels, Damp Proof: —
Macerate five arts of goad glue in eighteen to
twenty parts 0 water for a day, and to the liquid
add nine parts of rock candy and three parts of
gum arabic. The mixture can be brushed upon
paper while lukewarm; it keeps well, does not
stick together, and when moistened, adheres
firmly to bottles. For the labels of soda or selt-
zer water bottles, it is well to prepare a paste of
good rye flour and glue, to which linseed oil,
varnish and turpentine have been added, in the

roportion of half an ounce each to the pound.
abels prepared in the latter way do not fall off
in damp cellars.

IIIUCILA GE, Mola' in.-—-Solutions of gum
arabic are very liable to become mold ; and
while the introduction of creosote, corroswe sub-
limate, etc., frequently used to remedy this evil,
is objectionable on account of the danger of pois-
oning, according to the lna’nstrie Bldtter sul-
phate of quinine is a complete protection against
mold, a very small quantity of it being sufficient
to prevent gum mucilage from spoiling. It is
quite possible that writing ink might be protect-
ed by the same application from a like difficulty.
The use of ammonia for the same purpose is also
recommended. .

II! US T A RD, A romatio.—I. To I quart pure
cider vinegar, addz tablespoonfuls each of ground
allspice and cinnamon, I do. of cloves, 3 do.
brown sugar, 4 do. salt, and 3 large onions cut
fine. Boil until the strength is well extracted,
say % or % of an hour; then strain the vinegar,
boiling, on to I lb. best English mustard, and
stir until it is perfectly smooth. If not thin
enough, put more vinegar to the same spices,
boil and mix. This keeps well in a fruit jar,
and improves by age. Boiling the vinegar for
the length of time directed above would weaken
it very much. The flavor of the spices would
be extracted equally well by keeping the mixture
nearly boiling hot in a covered vessel.—2. Take
4 tablespoon uls of ground mustard, I do. flour,
I do. sugar, I teaspoonful salt, I do. black pep-

er, I do. cinnamon, I do. cloves. Mix smooth-
y with boiling vinegar and let stand several
hours before using. It may be thinned with
cold vinegar. Will keep any length of time.

MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS, To Stain.—
C'rimron.—Boil I lb. of ground BraziLwood in
3 quarts of water for an hour; strain it, and add
half an ounce of cochineal; boil it again for half
an hour gently, and it will be fit for use—Par-
ple.—Boil a pound of chip logwood in 3 quarts
of water for an hour; then add four ounces of alum.

NAMES, Sigrnz'fieation of.—

Aaron, Hebrew, a mountain.

Abel, Hebrew, vanity.

Abraham, Hebrew, the father of many.
Adam, Hebrew, red earth.

Adolphus, Saxon, hap iness and help.
Albert, Saxon, all bright.

Alexander, Greek, a helper of men.
Alfred, Saxon, all peace.

Ambrose, Greek, immortal.

Amos, IYebrew, a burden.

Andrew, Greek, courageous.
Anthony, Latin, flourishing.
Archibald, German, a bold observer.
Arnold, German, a maintainer of honor.
Arthur, British, :1. strong man.

A .t n
Aggie}: i Latin, venerable, grand'

 

487

Baldwin, German, a bold winner.

Bardulph, German, a famous helper.

Barnaby, Hebrew, a prophet’s son.

Bartholomew, Hebrew, the son of him who made
the waters to rise.

Beaumont, Frenelz, a pretty mount.

Bede, Saxon, prayer.

Benjamin, l!ebrew, the son of a right hand.

Bennet, Latin, blessed.

Bernard, German, bear’s heart.

Bertram, German, fair, illustrious.

Boniface, Latin, a well-doer.

Brian, From/z, having a thundering voice.

Cadwallader, British, valiant in war.

Caesar, Latin, adorned with hair.

Caleb, Hebrew, a dog.

Cecil, Latin, dim-sighted.

Charles, German, noble—spirited.

Christopher, Greek, bearing Christ.

Clement, Latin, mild-tempered.

Conrad, German, able counsel.

Constantine, Latin, resolution.

Crispin, Latin, having curled locks.

Cuthbert, Saxon, known famously.

Daniel, [fibre-w, God is judge.

David, Hebrew, well-beloved.

Denis, Greek, belonging to the god of wine.

Dunstan, Saxon, most high.

Edgar, Saxon, happy honor.

Edmund, Saxon, happy peace.

Edward, Saxon, happy keeper.

Edwin, Saxon, happy conqueror.

Egbert, Saxon, ever bright.

Elijah, Hebrew, God, the Lord.

Elisha, Hebrew, the salvation of God.

Ephraim, Hebrew, fruitful.

Erasmus, Greek, lovely, worthy to be loved.

Ernest, Greek, earnest, serious.

Evan or Ivon, Britirk, the same as John.

Everard, German, well reported.

Eugene, Greek, nobly descended.

Eustace, Greek, standing firm.

Ezekiel, Hebrew, the strength of God.

Felix, Latin, happy.

Ferdinand, German, pure peace.

Francis, German, free.

Frederic, German, rich peace.

Gabriel, Hebrew, the strength of God.

Geoffery, German, joyful.

George, Greek, 3. husbandman.

Gerard, Saxon, all towardliness.

Gideon, Hebrew, a breaker.

Gilbert, Saxon, bright as gold.

Giles, Greek, 3. little goat.

Godard, German, a godly disposition.

Godfrey, German, God’s peace.

Godwin, German, victorious in God.

Griffith, Britirk, having great faith.

Guy, Frenelz, the mistletoe shrub.

Hannibal, Panic, a gracious lord.

Harold, Saxon, a champion.

Hector, Greek, a stout defender.

Henry, German, a rich lord.

Herbert, German, a bright lord.

Hercules, Greek, the glory of Hera or Juno.

Hezekiah, Hebrew, cleaving to the Lord.

Horatio, Italian, worthy to be beheld.

Howel, Britirli, sound or whole.

Hubert, German, a bri ht color.

Hugh, Date/i, high, 10 ty.

Humphrey, German, domestic peace.

Jacob, Hebrew, a supplanter.

James or Jacques, beguiling.

488

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

Ingram, German, of angelic purity.
Joab, Hebrew, fatherhood.

ob, [febrew, sorrowing.

oel, Hebrew, acquiescing.

olm, flebrew, the grace of the Lord.

onah, Hebrew, a dove.
Jonathan, Hebrew, the gift of the Lord.
Joscelin, German, just.
Joseph, Hebrew, addition.

osias, Hebrew, the fire of the Lord.
ioshua, Hebrew, a Saviour.

saac, Hebrew, laughter.
Lambert, Saxon, a fair lamb.
Lancelot, Spanirh, a little lance.
Laurence, Latin, crowned with laurels.
Lazarus, Hebrew, destitute of help.
Leonard, German, like a lion.
Leopold, German, defending the people.
Lewellin, British, like a lion.
Lewis, French, the defender of the people.
Lionel, Latin, :1 little lion.
Lucius, Latin, shining.
Luke, Greek, a wood or grove.
Mark, Latin, a hammer.
Martin, Latin, martial.
Mathew, Hebrew, a gift or present.
Maurice, Latin, sprung of a Moor.
Meredith, British, the roaring of the sea.
Michael, Hebrew, who is like God?
Morgan, British, a mariner.
Moses, Hebrew, drawn out.
Nathaniel, Hebrew, the gift of God.
Neal, French, somewhat black.
Nicolas, Greek, victorious over the people.
Noel, French, belonging to one’s nativity.
Norman, French, one born in Normandy.
Obadiah, Hebrew, the servant of the Lord.
Oliver, Latin, an olive.
Orlando, Italian, counsel for the land.
Osmund, Saxon, house peace.
Oswald, Saxon, ruler of a house.
Owen, British, well descended.
Patrick, Latin, a nobleman.
Paul, Latin, small, little.
Percival, French, a place in France.
Peregrine, Latin, outlandish.
Peter, Greek, a rock or stone.
Philip, Greek, a lover of horses.
Phineas, Hebrew, of bold countenance.
Ralph, contracted from Radolph, or Randal, or

Ranulph,. Saxon, pure help.

Raymund, German, quiet peace.
Reuben, Hebrew, the son of vision.
Reynold, German, a lover of purity.
Richard, Saxon, powerful.
Robert, German, famous in counsel.
Roger, German, strong counsel.
Rowland, German, counsel for the land.
Rufus, Latin, reddish.
Solomon, Hebrew, peaceable.
Samson, Hebrew, a little son.
Samuel, Hebrew, heard by God.
Saul, Hebrew, desired.
Sebastian, Greek, to be reverenced.
Simeon, Hebrew, hearing.
Simon, Hebrew, obedient.
Stephen, Greek, a crown or garland.
Theobald, Saxon, bold over the people.
Theodore, Greek, the gift of God.
Theodosius, Greek, given of God.
TheOphilus, Greek, a lover of God.
Thomas, Hebrew, a twin.
Timothy, Greek, a fearer of God.

 

ToLby (pr Tobias, Hebrew, the goodness of the
or . '

Valentine, Latin, powerful.

Vincent, Latin, conquering.

Vivian, Latin, living.

Walter, German, a wood master.
Walwin, German, a conqueror.

William, German, defending many.
Zaccheus, Syriac, innocent.

Zachary, Hebrew, remembering the Lord.
Zebedee, Syriac, having an inheritance.
Zedekiah, Hebrew, the justice of the Lord.

 

Adeline, German, a princess.
Agatha, Greek, good.
Agnes, German, chaste.
Alethea, Greek, the truth.
Althea, Greek, hunting.
Alice, Alicia, German, noble.
Amy, Amelia, French, a beloved.
Anna, Anne, or Hannah, Hebrew, gracious.
Arabella, Latin, a fair altar.
Aureola, Latin, like gold.
Barbara, gatin, foreign or strange.
Beatrice, atin, making happy.
Benedicta, Latin, blessed.
Bernice, Greek, bringing victory.
Bertha, Greek, bright or famous.
Blanche, French, fair.
Bona, Latin, good.
Bridget, Irish, shining bright.
Cassandra, Greek, 2. reformer of men.
Catharine, Greek, pure or clean.
Charity, Greek, love, bounty.
Charlotte, French, all noble.
Caroline, feminine (yr Carolus, the Latin of
Charter, noble-spirited.

Chloe, Greek, a green herb.
Christiana, Greek, belonging to Christ.
Cecilia, Latin, from Cecil.
Cicely, a corruption of Cecilia.
Clara, Latin, clear or bright.
Constance, Latin, constant.
Deborah, Hebrew, a bee.
Diana, Greek, Jupiter’s daughter.
Dorcas, Greek, :1 wild roe.
Dorothy, Greek, the gift of God.
Edith, Saxon, happiness.
Eleanor, Saxon, all fruitful.
Eliza, Elizabeth, Hebrew, the oath of God.
Emily, corrupted from Amelia.
Emma, German, a nurse.
Esther, Hester, Hebrew, secret.
Eve, Hebrew, causing life.
Eunice, Greek, fair victory. .
Eudoia, Greek, prospering in the way.
Frances, German, free.
Gertrude, German, all truth.
Grace, Latin, favor.
Hagar, Hebrew, a stranger.
Helena, Gregcfallui?g.

ane, so tene ram oan; or,
Jaime, tfhefiminine of 701m.
Janet, Jeannette, little Jane.
Joyce, French, pleasant.

Isabella, Spanish, fair Eliza.
Judith, Hebrew, praising.
Julia, Juliana, feminine of 7ulz'm.
Letitia, Latin, joy or gladness.
Lois, Greek, better.

Lucretia, Latin, a chaste Roman lady.
Lucy, Latin, feminine cy" Lucius.
Lydia, Greek, descended from Lud. '

MIS CELL/1 NE 0 US.

Mabel, Latin, lovely. _
Magdalene, Maudlin, Syriac, magnificent.
Margaret, German, a pearl.

Martha, Hebrew, bitterness.

Mary, Hebrew, bitter.

Maud, Matilda, Greek, a lady of honor.
Mercy, English, com assion.
Mildred, Saxon, spea ing mild.

Nest, Britirk, t/ze same a: A gner.
Nicola, Greek, feminine quieolas.
Olym ia, Greek, heavenly.

Orabi is, Latin, to be entreated.
Parnell, or Petronilla, little Peter.
Patience, Latin, bearing patiently.
Paulina, Latin, feminine quanlinus.
Penelope, Greek, a turkey.

Persis, Greek, destroying.
Philadelphia, Greek, brotherly love.
Philippa, Greek, feminine qf P/zilip.
Phoebe, Greek, the light of life.
Phyllis, Greek, 9. green bough.
Priscilla, Latin, somewhat old.
Prudence, Latin, discretion.

Psyche, Greek, the soul.

Rachel, Hebrew, a lamb.

Rebecca, Hebrew, fat or plump.
Rhoda, Greek, a rose.

Rosamund, Saxon, a rose of peace.
Rosa, Latin, a rose.

Rosecleer, English, a fair rose.
Rosabella, Italian, a fair rose.

Ruth, Hebrew, trembling.

Sabina, Latin, sprung from the Sabine.
Salome, Hebrew, perfect.

Sapphira, Greek, like a sapphire stone.
Sarah, Hebrew, a princess.

Sibylla, Greek, the counsel of God.
Sophia, Greek, wisdom.

Sophronia, Greek, of a sound mind.
Susan, Susanna, Hebrew, a lily.
Tabitha, Syriac, a roe.

Temperance, Latin, moderation.
Theodosia, Greek, given by God.
Tryphosa, Greek, delicious.
Tryphena, Greek, delicate.

Vida, Erse,f2'minine quavia'.
Ursula, Latin, 3. female bear.
Winifred, Saran, winning eace.
Zenobia, Greek, the life of upiter.

N] T [80- GL YCERIM—When glycerin is
allowed slowly to trickle into a mixture of equal
measures of nitric acid and oil of vitriol, at a
low temperature, two atoms of its hydrogen are
replaced by two atoms of protoxide of nitrogen,
and there results a heavy oily liquid known as
nitro-glycerin, a. body which has more than ten
times the explosive power of gunpowder. It
has come into extensive use for blasting, and
the number of terrible accidents that have hap-

ened from it, by explosion from mere friction,
illustrates not only the tremendous forces that
can be stored up in the shape of atomic tensions,
but how exquisite is the balance by which such
terrible agencies are kept in equilibrium.

This terrible explosive seems little to respect
its company and surroundings. Dr. Gorup
Besamez reports the account of an explosion of
ten drops of the substance in his laborator ,
and the astonishing effects he records as resu t-
ing from this explosion are well calculated to
give a most respectable and respectful notion of
the properties of nitro glycerin. One of the
doctor’s pupils, in the course of an investigation,

 

489

placed the above mentioned quantity of the
substance in question in a small cast iron dish
heater over the small Bunsen gas burner in
common use in laboratories. Result: forty-six
panes of glass in the windows of the laborator
demolished, the iron dish hurled through a bric
wall, the iron stand upon which it was supported
partly split and partly twisted out of shape, and
the tube of the Bunsen burner split and flattened.
Those in the laboratory, fortunately, escaped
without injury. This circumstance confirms the
results of Dr. E. Kopp’s observations upon the
conditions upon which nitro-glycerin explodes
or quietly burns. When caused to fall drop by
dro on an iron plate at a full red heat, it burns
0E ike gunpowder; but should the iron plate
not be thoroughly red, but still sufficiently heat-
ed to make the nitro-glycerin boil suddenly, an
explosion invariably occurs. The latter must
have been the conditions under which the nitro-
glycerin was heated in the case above cited.
Nobel claims that nitro-glycerin can be rendered
perfectly harmless and safe "for transportation by
mixing it with ten per cent. of wood spirit or
methylic alcohol. When required for use this
added substance must be removed, its removal
bringing the explosive back to its original dan-
gerous state. An admixture with twenty-five
per cent. of its weight of sand will, it is said,
allow it to burn quietly without explosion, but if
struck with a sudden and violent blow, it takes
fire, but only the portion struck burns. Such a
mixture, now known as dynamite, may be ex-
ploded by means of fulminate of mercury, itself
fired by the electric spark or by a slow match.
01L (Lamp), Ta Pnrify.-——Take chloride of
lime, I 1b.; water, 12 lbs. Triturate the chloride
of lime in a large mortar, gradually adding the
water so as to form a smooth and soap paste,
and then add the remainder of the water, which
will give the whole the consistence of cream.
N 0w mix this thoroughly with the oil by fre-
quent and careful stirring, in the proportion of
I quart of the paste for 100 lbs. of oil, or a little
more, if the oil be very putrid. Let it remain a
few hours, when add I lb. of sulphuric acid,
previously diluted with 20 or 30 parts of water,
and boil, with a gentle heat, constantly stirring
during the process, until the oil drops clear
from the end of a piece to be dipped into it.
After the boiling has been finished, allciw the oil
to settle for a few hours; then draw it off from
the acidulated water. The boiler should be lined
with lead, and the mortar for the trituration of
the chloride of lime should neither be iron nor

0 er.

I331L, Neat’s-Foat. -—In the manufacture of this
oil the bones of the foot only are used after re-v
jecting the hoofs. In the hind feet of the animals
the foot goes up to the first point, which bends
inside, presenting a very large bone. These
bones, as fresh and as clean as possible, are
boiled for half an hour in a suitable vessel, and
the oil after cooling is poured or syphoned off.
It is then filtered through a piece of flannel and
is ready for use. If the bones are not fresh the
oil may have a disagreeable odor, and it has
then to be purified, which can be done by shak-
ing it with a weak solution of bleaching powder,
to which a little hydrochloric acid has been added,
washing it with water and filtering. The solid
fats are removed, melted again, poured through
muslin, and constitute when odorless an excel-

49o

lent material for pomatums. If they are rancid
they may be sold to the soap makers.

OILS of Orange and Lemon, T a Preserve.—
To every pound of oil I oz. of alcohol is to be
added, and well mixed; then r oz. of water is
put with it, which again withdraws the alcohol
from the oil, and collects at the bottom of the
bottle as dilute alcohol.

OIL-PARCHMENYI—According to Dr. J.
C. Hofmann’s directions for the preparation of
what he calls oil-parchment, the basis may be
either linen or cotton-cloth, or even strong pa-
per. The material, whichever is chosen, is to
be stretched out, and then covered with the fol-
lowing preparation: One part of fine whitellead,
two-thirds of a part of well burnt ground and
sifted plaster of Paris, and one-fourth of a part
of fine slaked lime are intimately mixed and
ground with water until a perfectly smooth,
doughy mass is obtained. Then two-thirds of a
part of best clear glue, dissolved in sufficient
water, is gradually added until the mass is of
such aconsistence that it can be easily spread
with a brush. Three or four layers of this are
to be put upon the cloth, one being allowed to
get thoroughly dry before another is put on.
The last, when dry, is to be rubbed down smooth
with pumice-stone. The ground is now ready
for the surface of oil or paint. If a white surface
is desired, a mixture of one part of best linseed
oil and one-third of well-bleached lead-varnish
alone is used; but this mixture, if wished, may
be colored yellow with ochre, red with Cinnabar,
blue with Prussian blue, or black with Frankfort
black. Three or four thin layers of the paint
may be applied, care being again taken that each
coat is well dried before another is laid on. The
oil, we are told, unites to the other surface so
as to form a solid material, which is quite im-

ervious to water, and cannot be rubbed off.

he material so prepared may be written upon
with a lead or colored pencil, and the writing or
drawing can be washed off again any number of
times. It might be expected that the mixture
with plaster of Paris, which forms the ground-
work, would set into a solid mass too quickly
to allow of three or four coats of the same mix-
ture being applied, but the author gives no inti-
mation of such a danger.

OIL, for Railway Carr and Mackinaw.—
Soda, 56 lbs., thoroughly dissolved in 3 gals.
water in a small boiler; then to be poured into
alarge cooler containing 30 to 36 gals. water,
and well mixed: melt I cwt. 2 qrs. of tallow in
a large boiler, then add I cwt. 3 qrs. of palm-
oil; boil together; as soon as it boils, the mix-
ture is to be gradually cooled down to blood heat,
stirring all the time. It is then to be run off
through a sieve into the cooler containing the
soda and water ; and must be stirred all the time
it is running off, in order to mix pro erly.

OIL (Rape), To Purify—Rape Oil, 100 gal-
lons; strong oil of vitriol, 2 gallons. Put them
into a cask and agitate for one hour, decant the
clear oil in three days, and then divide the oil
into two portions and put each into separate
casks, add forty or fifty gallons of hot water to
each, and agitate for one hour more; in three
days or more, decant the clear for use.

OLEOGRAPHS: Marilled Paper.-—A so-
called novelty has been advertised in England
lately, under this name. It is simply paper, on
which peculiar accidental figures are formed by

 

DICTIONARY OFEVERY-DAY WANTS.

the following process : Oil is dropped on water;
paper is laid on the surface; this is allowed to
float an instant, and then drawn through ink,
and washed with water. It appears to us that
the main principle of this so-called novel method
is identical with the manner in which thus far
all marbled papers have been manufactured,
namely, a shallow bath of water mixed with
some ox-gall is prepared and g sprinkled with
water colors mixed with gum, etc., on the sur-
face, so that they float and form all kinds of ac-
cidental figures. Then a sheet of white paper
is laid on the water for an instant, and taken up
directly ; after which it is dried.

PA CKIJVG, Hint; on.—In packing up a
parcel of books, be careful, in order to preserve
them from rubbing, to place a sheet of white
paper over the cover of each, and pack the books
together in such a way that one will bind the
other, and thus form a secure parcel. Use abun-
dance of wrapping-paper and strong cord. If
the parcel exceeds twelve inches in breadth,
draw a cord tightly, but not too much so, round
the sides, which will materially aid in keeping it
secure and compact. As a rule, furniture and
earthenware should be packed by those who are
accustomed to it. The packing of flowers and
fruit may be left in the hands of the gardener.
Every packer should be very careful in driving
nails into packed boxes; screws are much to be
preferred. In packing articles which are liable
to break, place the heaviest articles at the bottom,
and see that plenty of straw, soft paper, and
paper shavings are provided, wherewith to wrap
up and separate each particular article. Pack-
ages of glass and other fragile materials ought
to be marked “Brittle (or fragile), with care,”
in plain and conspicuous letters on the parcel,
or packing case.

PAINT, To Remove from Sfant.—A writer
having to clean a pulpit and sedilia in which the
carving and tracery were almost filled up with
successive coats of paint, was informed that
common washing-soda, dissolved in boiling wa-
ter, and applied hot, would remove it. He says,
“I found that 3 lbs. of soda, (cost 2%d.) to a
gallon of water, laid on with a common paint-
brush, answered the purpose admirably, soften-
ing the paint in a short time, so that it was easily
removed with a stiff scrubbing-brush; afterward,
on addinga few ounces of potash to the solution,
it softened more readily than with soda only.
The stone in both cases was a fine freestone.”

PAPER, Copying—Mix lard and lampblack
to a paste, rub this over paper, wipe off the waste
with a rag, and dry the paper. A clean sheet
placed under this while written on with a lead
pencil, etc., receives a copy.

PAPER, Leatlrer.-—One of the most interest-
ing and peculiar productions of paper is that
which is made to imitate leather. The surface
has every appearance of a finished skin, with
extraordinary firmness and elasticity, and it can
be subjected to washing without any injury from
the water. These peculiarities are not so much
due to the superior quality of the material as to
the mode of manufacture, the surfaces remaining
intact even when the paper is very thick, while
with us paper of this kind soon loses its firmness,
and the grain is impaired. .

Japanese “leather” paper is made extenswely
at Flangawa, near Yeddo. It is made 1n sheets
of 60 centimetres in length and 42 centimetres 1n

MISCELLANEOUS.

width. The paper out of which it is prepared is
not dissimilar to our packing-paper, and is made
in Southern Japan, near Nagasaki, and thence
taken to other provinces, where it is manufactured
into the different forms, for various uses. The
leather paper is made in the following manner:—
It is dampened and laid in pairs between two
peculiarly prepared forms, made of paper also,
onlymore highly varnished than ordinary leather
aper; they have a very strong surface coating,
ut running only in one direction.

Before putting the paper in these forms, the
sheets are stretched a little in the direction of
their width. If there are several sheets they are
rolled on a cylindrical piece of wood, the grain
of the paper running in an opposite direction
from that of the wood, they are then unrolled
from this on a cloth to keep them in shape, and
put into a form, with a hole in the top large
enough to admit the end of the wooden cylinder.
The roll of the paper is then subjected to a pres‘
sure of 200 or 300 pounds. After the roll has
been reduced to three-quarters of its original
length by this pressure, it is taken out of the
press and turned, the folds flattened out, and
again pressed to remove the deep marks.

After passing the paper through rollers several
times, the upper surface acquires the appearance
of leather; it is then colored, oiled with a kind
of rape-seed oil, varnished, put once more in the
press, which completes it, with the exception of
drying. By means of parallel or cross lines on
the rollers, the upper surface of the paper is made
to resemble leather exactly in all its varieties.
The paper being pressed to one-third, or even
to one-half, its original thickness, and the passage
through the rollers giving it a fine-grained ap-
pearance, makes it valuable to picture-printers,
as the surface has the appearance of crépe silk.

There is another variety of leather paper which
is smooth and transparent, resembling hog-skin
very much. Thisis manufactured by a process of
hammering, and is the highest priced, costing 27
cents per sheet,while the other ranges from 8 to I4
cents, some very fine selling at 8 cents per sheet.

PAPER from Oat quure.—-Paper is manu-
factured from oat refuse by first immersing the
oat husks in water in a tank in order to float off
mustard and other seeds, with which they are
frequently more or less mixed, and which, if- not
separated, materially deteriorate the quality of
the paper. It is of advantage to have the water
well stirred, as it facilitates the separation of the
foreign seeds, and allows them to float to the
surface. The' oat husks are then allowed to
settle, and the surface scum and floating seeds
are drawn off by an overflow pipe at the top of
the tank, or skimmed off bya rake or other tool,
or otherwise removed; after which the water is
drained from the oat husks bya waste-water pipe
at the bottom of the tank, and beneath a perfor-
ated false bottom, or fitted with a strainer which
retains the oat husks. The oat husks may be
left to steep in the water for from five to ten
hours after or during the removal of the scum,
as this steeping, by softening them and helping
to loosen the silica from the fibre, facilitates the
subsequent boiling process.

PAPER, Oiled.—Brush sheets of paper over
with boiled oil, and suspend them on a line until
dry. This paper is water-proof, and is employed
to tie over preserve pots and jars, and to wrap
up paste blacking, etc.

 

49:

PA PER, Parchment—To convert paper into
vegetable parchment, immerse it for a few sec-
onds in a cold mixture of one volume water and
two volumes sulphuric acid. Wash out rapidly
by plunging into a large quantity of cold water ;
and finally remove all traces of the acid by fur-
ther immersion in water, to which a small quan- '
tity of ammonia has been added. On drying,
the parchment has a tendency to contract un-
equally. This can be prevented by attaching it
to a frame while still wet, or by allowing it to
dry under a press.

Paper prepared in this way is very transpa-
rent, and can be used for copying by tracing.
It is also extensively employed as a substitute
for parchment made from sheepskin in diplomas,
certificates, patents, and for letter envelopes.

The precautions to be observed in its manu-
facture are, not to keep it too long in the bath,
and afterward to be sure to remove every trace
of the acid.

The applications of parchment paper are daily
extending. A recent number of a Breslau paper
gives an account of some specimens prepared by
Albert Eckstein, of Vienna, which are capable
of a great variety of uses. One variety can be
employed as a substitute for cloth in binding,
and a thicker variety for imitation of half-calf
bindings. One of the most important applica-
tions is to prepare ice-sacks for medical use.
These bags are a great improvement on the In-
dia rubber or beef-bladder bags usually employ-
ed for this purpose. The parchment bag, in
consequence of the SlOW escape of the water
through the membrane, is kept constantly cold,
and no change of its contents becomes neces-
sary. The evaporation of the water from the
surface keeps down the temperature of the con-
tents of the bag. Parchment paper is also re-
commended for wrappers for goods which may
be injured by dust or moisture, and is prepared
for this purpose.

The principal use, however, of the parchment
pa er at present is as a porous membrane in the
re ning of sugar. This paper will separate dif-
ferent impurities, and finally the crystallizable
sugar from molasses, if placed between the latter
substance and water. This peculiar action of the
pores of the paper is called osmose, and the
whole operation diffusion. Dubrunfaut some
three or four years ago introduced this system
for the refining of sugar into Germany and
France. Extensive ieces of apparatus have
been constructed fort is purpose, called osmo~
meters and osmogenes.

PAPER, or Parr/zmmt, T a Stain.-—- Yellow.
——-Paper may be stained a beautiful yellow by the
tincture of turmeric formed by infusing an oz. or
more of the root, powdered, In a pint of spirit of
wine. This may be made to give any tint of
yellow, from the lightest straw to the full color,
called French 1yellow, and will be equal in bright-
ness even tot e best dyed silks. If yellow be
wanted of a warmer or redder cast, annotto or
dragon’s blood must be added. The best man.
nor of using these, and the following tinctures,
is to spread them even on the paper or parch-
ment, by means of a broad brush, in the manner
of varnish. Crimran.~—A ver fine crimson stain
ma be given to paper by a tincture of the Indi-
an ake, which may be made by infusing the lake
some days in s irit of wine, and then pouring
oft" the tincture om the drags. It may be stained

492

D] C T! ONA R Y 01“ E VER Y-DA Y WA .IVTS.

 

red by red ink. It may also be stained of a scar-
let hue by the tincture of dragon’s blood in spirit
of wine, but this will not be bright. Green.—
Paper or parchment may be stained green by the
solution of verdigris in vinegar, or by the crys-
tals of verdigris dissolved in water. Orange.—
Stain the paper or parchment first of a full yel-
low by means of the tincture of turmeric, then
brush it over with a solution of fixed alkaline
salt, made by dissolving % an oz. of pearlash,
or salt of tartar, in a quart of water, and filter-
ing the solution. Purpla—Paper or parchment
may be stained purple by archil, or by the tinc-
ture of logwood. The juice of ripe privet-berries
expressed will also give a purple dye.

The coal-tar colors are especially adapted to
coloring paper.

PA PER, Tracing—In order to prepare a
beautiful transparent, colorless paper, it is best
to employ the varnish formed with Demarara
resin in the following way: The sheets intended
for this purpose are laid flat on each other, and
the varnish spread over the uppermost sheet by
means of a brush, until the paper appears per-
fectly colorless, without, however, the liquid
therein being visible. The first sheet is then re-
moved, hung up for drying, and the second
treated in the same manner. After being dried,
this paper is capable of being written on, either
with chalk, or pencil, or steel pens. It preserves
its colorless transparency without becoming yel-
low, as is frequently the case with that prepared
in any other way.

PA PER, T o Make T ramparmt.—Any paper
is capable of the transfer of a drawing in ordin-
ary ink, pencil, or water color, and even a
stout drawing paper can be made as transparent
as the thin yellowish paper at present used for
tracing purposes. The liquid used is benzine.
If the paper is dampened with pure and fresh
distilled benzine, it at once assumes transparen-
cy, and permits of tracing being made, and of
ink or water colors being used on its surface
without any “running.” The paper resumes its
opacity as the benzine evaporates, and if the
drawingis not then completed, the requisite por-
tion of the paper must again be dampened with
the benzine. This new discovery of the proper-
ties of benzine will prove of service to the art
profession, in allowing the use of stifl' paper
where formerly only a slight tissue could be used.
' PA PElt’, Test/or Wood in.—A weak solution
of sulphate of aniline is now used for detecting
the presence of wood fiber in paper. One drop
of the liquid on a pointed glass rod applied to
paper containing such fiber, even in minute
quantities, if prepared in a mechanical way, will
produce an intense yellow color. This reaction
does not take place when the wood fiber has
been chemically prepared.

PAPER, Waxed—Place a sheet of stout pa-
per on a heated iron plate, and over this place
the sheets of tissue paper to be waxed. Inclose
wax or stearine in a piece of muslin, and as it
melts spread over the tissue paper equally; pro-
ceed with others similarly until enough are pre-
pared. Used to cover gallipots, ointments, etc.

PASTE, Resemblz’ng t/ie Diamond. —Take
white sand, 1800 parts; red lead, 1200 parts ;
pearlash, 900 parts ; nitre, 600 parts; arsenic,
100 parts; manganese, I part. To render this

aste still harder, use less lead, and if it should
mcline to yellow, add a little more manganese.

 

PASTE (Improved), for Wall:. —A new
form of paste for attaching paper hangings to
walls, and one which, besides possessing the
merit of cheapness, has the advantage of pre—
venting the paper from separating or peeling off,
is prepared by first softening 18 lbs. of finely
powdered bole (fatty clay) in water, and then
draining off the surplus water from the mass.
One and a' quarter pounds of glue are next to be
boiled into glue water, and the bole and 2 lbs.
of gypsum are then stirred in, and the whole
mass forced through a sieve by means of a brush.
This is afterward diluted with water to the con-
dition of a thin paste or dressing, when it is
ready for use. The paste is not only much
cheaper than the ordinary flour paste, but it has
the advantage of adhering better to whitewashed
surfaces, especially to walls that have been coat-
ed over several times, and from which the coat-
ing has not been carefully removed. In some
cases it is advisable, when putting fine paper on
old walls, to coat them by means of this paste
with a ground paper, and to apply the paper
hanging itself tothis with the ordinary paste.

PASTE, for Laoelz'ng on T in.—Any paste,
such as you buy in commerce, or make yourself
from gum-arabic or gum-tragacanth, with the
addition of a little Wintergreen oil, will do for
this purpose. It is only necessary to remove
from the tin a thin film of grease which prevents
perfect adhesion, causing it to. blister of? on
drying. This is accomplished by dipping a rag
in a dilute solution of caustic soda or potash—
ten of water to‘ one of potash—rubbing the spot
on which to fix the label, and drying it with
another rag. No label put on in this way will
come off again.

PA S T ILLES, Vanilla.—Pastilles which give
out the scent of vanilla may be thus prepared:
Galbanum, twenty-four parts; cloves, sixteen
parts; vanilla, thirty-two parts; essence of cloves,
one part; and essence of vanilla, sixteen parts;
all the ingredients being well powdered and
mixed into a mass of mucilage of gum arabic.
Liquid compositions of a similar nature may also
be prepared, and of which a small quantity may
be poured into a saucer and ignited. A fluid of
this kind may be formed of gum benzoin, thirty-
two parts; gum galbanum, twenty-four parts;
and bruised cloves, seventeen parts. The ma~
terials are to be well broken up into fragments
and put into a stoppered bottle, with a suflicient

uantity of rectified spirits of wine to dissolve
t e gums. The vessel must be kept in a warm
place for some time, until the benzoin and gal-
banum are dissolved, and then the clear liquor
should be decanted into another bottle, and pre-
served for use.

PA TEN T IIIEDI CINES, Composition of;—
Coca Pillr, by Sampson, New York. According
to Hagar and Jacobsen, composed of powdered
coca and extract of Coca in about equal quantities;
value about one-fourth of price. .

Eau de Cyt/ze’re, a hair color restorer, consrsts
of 4 chloride of lead, 8 hyposulphite of soda,
88 water. A similar composition was Eau de
fees, which, a couple of years ago, was introduced
here. The writer found in a sample also some
alkalies, earths, and traces of nitric acid, origi-
nating robably in the spring or pump water
used. agar and Jacobsen give the followmg
formula: Hyposulphite of lead 1%, hyposulphite
of soda 3, glycerine 7, water 88 parts.

MISCELLANEOUS.

Granular EflrI/ereent Citrate ry‘ Magnesia,
by Bisho , of London, consists merely of bicar-
bonate o soda, and tartaric acid.

Pommaa’e de: C/u’itelaz'ner, ahair invigorator,
consists of benzoinated lard and some volatile oils.

Hamburg Tea, by Frese & Co., of Hamburg:
Senna 8, manna 3, coriander I.

Magnesia}: Aperient, by Moxon, of England,
is, according to Siller, anhydrous sulphate of
magnesia 3r, carbonate of magnesia I4, bicar-
bonate of soda 3o, tartaric acid 25 parts.

Lait de Perles, according to Dragendorff, I
white lead, 7 rose water.

Swedzlr/z Essence of L2]? is made also in this
country, under various names. As usually made
2y apothecaries, it is a tincture prepared from 4

oes, I agaric, 1 rhubarb, I zedoary, I gentian,
I myrrh, 1 theriac, with 100 to 120 dilute alco—
hol. The secret medicine manufacturers usually
substitute cheaper articles for the high-priced
saffron and rhubarb.

Syru of Horseradz'rlz, by Grimault. Hagar
ves t e following directions: 50 p. each of

esh scurvygrass, buckbean, and watercress, 60
of horseradish, 40 of fresh orange berries, are
infused with 3 cinnamon in 50 p. white wine,
and after a day expressed; 250 p. sugar are dis-
solved in the filtrate.

Iodinizea' Syrup of florseraa’isfi, by Grimault,
contains 10 iodine and 5 potassium iodide in
8,000 of the former.

Syrup de Laz'l Iodigue, by Bouyer, of Paris.
200 cow’s milk, 60 cane sugar, alittle soda, and 1—6
of potassium iodide, are evaporated to 100 parts.

Myrr/u'ne, b J. B. George, of Paris, for the
preservation o the teeth: Glycerine 38, myrrh
7, arrowroot 5, chalk 54, oil of cinnamon I art.

New York Pills, by Sampson, of New ork.
The 1% rain pills consist of powdered coca 25,
extract 0 coca 3o, powdered iron 35 parts.

0 ialepour le: Dents, by Pinaud. Syrup 70,
chal 21, gypsum 7%, magnesia 1%, colored
with aniline red, containing arsenic, and flavor-
ed with oil of cloves, and of Spearmint.

Brand'ret/l’: Pills contain resin of podophyl-
lum, inspissated juice of poke berries, saffron,
cloves, oil of peppermint.

Holloway’: Pill: are composed of aloe, myrrh,
and saffron.

Morrison’r Pills, 2% grains each, consist of
aloe, cream of tartar and colocynth; another
lgind contains the same ingredients, besides gain-

oge.

Raa’way’s Ready Relief; according to Peckolt,
is an ethereal tincture of capsicum, with alco-
hol and camphor.

Raa’way’s Renovating Resolvenl, a vinous tinc-
ture of ginger and cardamom sweetened with
sugar. (Hagar and Jacobsen.)

Pomlre [{émosz’alz'gue Végétal, by Bonnatour,
consists of 4resin, I gum arabic, I wood charcoal.

Poua’re Unz’gne, by Godernaux, of Paris,
lauded as a specific against epilepsy, is impure
calomel, leaving when heated a slight reddish
residue.

Oil of florse C/zestnm’r, by E. Genevoix, of
Paris, is not the oil of the horse chestnuts, but
another non-drying oil, altered by heat so that
it has acquired a darker color, a pungent odor
and acrid taste.

_ PA VIE/WENT, Street—A new mode of lay-
ing granite pavement has been tried in London,
m a part of the city in which it will be subjected

.

 

493

to the severest test of heavy traffic. The plan
consists of laying down granite blocks of 6 by 4
inches on a simple bed and filling in the inter-
stices with a very coarse gravel, and then pour-
ing on a very hot coal tar. This liquid runs
down between the blocks to the bottom, and
firmly cements the whole pavement into one
mass, which is thus rendered impervious to
water from above or from below, consequently
the rain at once runs off, and the bed always
remaining dry, no pumping up of mud can occur
from between the blocks of granite, so that the
pavement always remains clean, and neither mud
in wet weather, nor dust in dry weather, can
arise where this mode is adopted. This pave-
ment has alreadyproved a success in Manchester, ,
and great hopes are entertained of the experi-
mental section laid down in London. As much
interest is aroused in several of our own cities,
and many experiments made to find a good pave-
ment, perhaps the above may prove useful.
Thus far none of the pavements laid down in
this country seem entirely satisfactory. The
wood, of which high expectations were enter-
tained, is too expensive, inconvenient to repair,
besides having disadvantages. Stone in some
form seems destined to maintain its ground.

PEARL [NLA KING—Mother of pearl is
the inner coat or layer of several kinds of oyster-
shells. Its beautiful tints are dependent upon
its structure, the surface being covered with
minute grooves so small that upward of three
thousand are contained in an inch, which decom-
pose and reflect the light.

The kinds of pearl used are three: mother of
pearl or the pearl oyster, or white pearl, as it if
called by the artist, and is known by its clear
white surface; aurora shell, which can readily
be told by its wrinkled appearance and its various
prismatic colors, made from the shell of the
genus of mollusca known as the sea-ear or car-
shell, and known to the conchologist as haliotis;
the green snail shell, which can be told by its
glistening colors of light and dark green, a soft
yellow, and a bright and beautiful pink, blended
together.

The lamellar structure of the pearl shell readily
admits of its being split into laminae; but as
splitting is liable to spoilthe shell, the pieces
are generally made to take the required shape by
the use of the saw, file, or rindstone. In pre-
paring the rough shell, i square or angular
pieces are required, the circular saw or the
ordinary back-saw is used; while if a circular
form is wanted, it is cut by an annular or crown<
saw fixed on a mandrel. '

After being cut out, the pieses are ground to
the necessary thinness on a grindstone, plenty
of water being used to avoid the great friction
which always ensues; after which, they are
ready for operation in the lathe for inlaying, etc.

After the shell is ground or turned to the
proper form, it is rubbed with pumice-stone and
water, following by an application of ground
pumice-stone, which has been carefully sifted to
extract all except the minutelypowdered portion,
and applied with a piece of cork or damp cloth.
The polishing is accomplished with rotten-stone ‘
moistened with dilute sulphuric acid, the latter
tending to develop the striated structure of the
shell. In some cases emery paper may be used,
followed with rotten-stone moistened with acid
or some limpid oil instead.

494

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

The pearl handles used for razors or knives
are first roughed out, then drilled where the
rivets are to be inserted, and then lightly riveted
together in pairs. They are then ground to the
proper size and thickness, and finished by the
means mentioned.

One process of working pearl is similar to that
of engraving in metals in relief, by the aid of
corrosive acids and the etching point. The shell
is first divided as may be necessary, and the
design or patterns drawn upon it with an opaque
varnish; strong nitric acid is then brushed over
the plates repeatedly, until the parts untouched
or undefended by the varnish are sufficiently
corroded or eaten away by the acid. The varnish
now being washed off, the device, which the
acid has not touched, is found to be nicely exe-
cuted. Ifthe design is to be after the manner of
common etching on copper, the process upon the
shell is precisely the same as that process upon
metal.

When a considerable number of pieces of thin
shell are required to be of the same size and
pattern, the requisite number of plates are ce-
mented together with glue, and the device or
figure drawn upon the outer plate. They may
then be held in a vise or clamp, and cut out as
one plate with a fine saw, or wrought into the
desired form with files; drilling tools may be
employed to assist in the operation. To sepa-
rate the pieces, the cemented shells are thrown
into warm water, which softens the glue and
separates the pieces.

Cast and sheet-iron and papier-maché are the
materials upon which pearl is generally inlaid.
The process is as follows: If the article be of
cast-iron, it is well cleaned from the sand which
usually adheres to the casting, and is blackened
with a coat of varnish and lamp-black. \Vhen
this is thoroughly dried, a coat of japan or black
Varnish is spread evenly upon it. Before the
varnish becomes too dry, pieces of pearl cut in
the form of leaves, roses, or such flowers as the
fancy of the artist may dictate, or the character
of the article may require, are laid upon it, and
pressed down with the finger, and they imme-
diately adhere to the varnished surface. The
work is then placed in aheated oven and kept
there for several hours, or until the varnish is
perfectly dried. It is then taken from the oven
and another coat of varnish applied indiscrimin-
ately on the surface of the pearl and the previous
coating, and again placed in the oven till dry.
This rocess is repeated several times. The
varnis is then scraped off the pearl with a knife,
and the surface of pearl and the varnish around
it is found to be quite even. The pearl is then
polished with a piece of pumice-stone and water,
and the surface of the varnish is rubbed smooth
with powdered pumice-stone, moistened with
water.

It is in this unfinished state that the pearl has
the appearance of being inlaid, and from which
it derives its name. Its final beauty and finish
depend altogether on the skill of the artist who
now receives it.

The artist traces the stems and leaves of the
flowers with a camel’s-hair pencil, dipped in a
size made of varnish and turpentine; upon this
he lays gold leaf, which adheres where there is
size, and the superfluous gold is carefully brush-
ed off with a piece of silk. The flowers and
leaves are then painted in colors, and when dry,

 

the picture and surface of the article is covered
with a coat of refined white varnish. For inlay-
ing, the thin pieces of pearl are cut by the artist
into the required shapes by ordinary scissors, or
by means of punches or dies worked by the foot
of the operator.

A varnished surface can be ornamented by
transferring drawings or engravings to it, and
the process is quite simple. A thin coat of copal
varnish is spread upon’the surface of the article,
and when nearly dry, the engraving is applied
with its face downward and carefully pressed to
exclude all air-bubbles. When the varnish is
sufficiently dry, the paper is thoroughly moist-
ened with a sponge dipped in warm water, and
can be rubbed off, leaving all the lines of the
print upon the varnished surface.

PENCILS, Black Lani—The easiest way
of producing, not only black lead, but all sorts
of pencils, is by the following process, which at
once combines simplicity, cheapness, and the
finest quality:

Take white or pipe clay; put it into a tub of
clean water, to soak for 12 hours, then agitate
the whole, until it resembles milk, let it rest two
or three minutes and pour off the supernatant
milky liquor into a second vessel, allow it to
settle, pour off the clear and dry the residue on
a filter. Then add black lead, any quantity.
Powder it and calcine it at a white heat ina
loosely covered crucible, cool and carefully re-
pulverize, then add prepared clay, pre ared
plumbago, equal parts. Water to mix. ake
them into a paste and put it into oiled molds of
the size required, dry ver gradually, and apply
sufficient heat to give the required degree of
hardness; lastly, the pieces should be taken
carefully from the molds and placed in the grooves
of the cedar. The more clay and heat employed,
the harder the crayon; less clay and heat of
course produce a contrary effect. The shade of
black may also be varied in the same way. Each
mold must be made of four pieces of wood nice-
ly fitted together.

PENCIL W'Rl TIN G, To Fix.—Pencil writ-
ing may be fixed almost as indelibly as ink, by
passing the moistened tongue over it. Even
breathing slowly over the lines, after writing,
renders them much less liable to erasure than
when not subjected to that process. This fact
may be of importance to persons who may wish
to carry a memorandum book for along time.
In ordinary use the ages of such a book often
become very much efaced by the erasure and
diffusion of the pencil marks over the entire sur-
face of the paper. A trial of the experiment will
readily satisfy any person of the utility of the idea.

PEA’CILS, Indelz'éle. -— An agriculturist
writes: In relation to indelible pencils for mark~
ing wood labels for garden and out door use, I
will give my plan, which I think is a good one.
I buy a genuine Faber No. I, which usually
costs ten cents; then I prepare my labels (cedar
is the best material), and where I wish to write
I rub on a little common linseed oil and write
before it gets dry. I then have awriting that
will remain indelible for many years, at a much
less cost than a fifty cent pencil. If a little
Japan varnish or dryer is added to the 011, it is
better. A little white lead might be used in the
oil, but it is not absolutely necessary. It is best
to have a soft black pencil.

PE}? C USS! 01V CAPS, Priming Powder for.

MISCELLANE 0 US.

-—-Take gunpowder, 40 parts. Reduce it to a
fine powder, then mix it to a thin paste wrth
water, next add chlorate of potass, 21 parts, re-
viously reduced to a very fine powder. ake
the paste rather thin, and deposxt a small drop
at the bottom of the cap. Care must be taken
not to handle the mixture in quantity, when dry,
lest it should explode.

PE TROLE U!!! (Refined), To Deeolorz'ze.—
Any of the Bleaching Agents known may _be
employed for this purpose ; it is simply a question
of dollars and cents and manipulation. Bleach-
ing powder, the cheapest material, is to be
stirred into the oil in sufficient quantit , which
depends, of course, on the amount of co or to be
destroyed, and a little hydrochloric acid mixed
with it afterwards. With occasional stirring the
mixture is allowed to rest for twenty-four hours,
when the clear liquid is drawn into another tank,
washed with water until no longer acid, and
distilled. This will yield a colorless, limpid oil.

PE T ROLE U111, Improved Met/rod of T reat-
ing—In London petroleum is used in the pro-
cess of vulcanizing rubber. The petroleum
serves simply as a solvent for chloride of sulphur.
The commercial etroleum has for this purpose
to be freed of a l traces of water; for which
purpose IO per cent. of concentrated sulphuric
acid is added, and the mixture actively and con-
tinually stirred. Then the acid, which now is
very black, is allowed to settle, and the super-
natant petroleum drawn off into a dry receiving
vessel. To every barrel of petroleum one pound
of quicklime is added, with some black oxide of
manganese, and then the mass is distilled. Pe-
troleum treated in this wa is cheaper, and less
injurious to the health 0 the laborer, than the
bi-sulphide of carbon, which in some places is
used {or dissolving the chloride of sulphur and
the rubber.

PICTURE FRAMES—In the framing of

rints or water-color drawings, with a margin
between the subject and the frame, we have seen
the most unsymmetrical widths taken by caprice
both for margin and frame. You can frame
prints with harmonic proportions by the following
rule: ,I. Find a harmonic third to the length
and breadth of the print, and take it for the
collective widths of the margin and frame. 2.
Divide this space harmonically, so that the whole
space, and the greater and smaller part of it, are
three successive harmonic terms, and you have
then taken the less part for the margin, and the
greater part for the frame. A tactical rule for
dividing the collective width 0 the margin and
frame into two harmonic parts is to multiply the
whole width by the decimal .5858 and the product
will be the width of the frame, and the rest the
width of the margin, or vice versa. In case,
however, one will insist on a very wide margin,
he ma take twice instead of once the harmonic
third or the width of the margin nnd frame.

PICTURES for Magic Lanterns.-—(ZVew
Slyle. —A sheet of gelatine, he says, such as is
used or tracing, is securely fixed over an en-
graving, and with a shar steel point (made by

rinding down the end 0 a small round file) the
fines of the original are traced pretty deeply on
the transparent substance. Lead-pencil or cray-
on-dust is then lightly rubbed in with the finger,
and the picture is at once ready for use. The
effect of these drawings in the lantern is said to
be excellent.

 

495

PIGMENTS for Stained Clara—Red lead,
I 02.; red enamel (Venetian glass enamel, from .
alum and copperas calcined together); grind
them to a fine powder, and work this up with
alcohol upon a hard stone. When slightly baked,
this produces a fine flesh-color. No. 2. Black
colon—Take 14% oz. of smithy scales of iron;
mix them with 2 oz. of white glass; antimony,
I 02.; manganese, % 02.; pound and grind these
ingredients together, with strong vinegar. N o. 3.
Brown colon—White glass or enamel, I 02.;
good manganese, % 02.; grind together. N o. 4.
Red, Rose, and Brown colors are made from
peroxide of iron, prepared by nitric acid. The
flux consists of borax, sand, and minium, in
small quantities. Red color may likewise be ob-

'tained from I 02. of red chalk, pounded, mixed

with 2 oz. of white, hard enamel, and a little
peroxide of cop er. A Red may also be com-
posed of rust 0 iron, glass of antimony, yellow
glass of lead, such as is used by potters (or lith-
arge), each in equal quantities; to which a little
sulphuret of silver is added. This composition,
well ground, produces a very fine red color on
glass. No 5. Green.—2 oz. of brass, calcined
into an oxide; 2 oz. of minium, and 8 oz. of
white sand; reduce them to a fine powder, which
is to be inclosed in a well luted crucible, and
heated strongly in an air furnace for an hour.
When the mixture is cold, grind it in a brass
mortar. Green may, however, be advantageously
produced, by a yellow on one side, and a blue
on the other. Oxide of chrome has been also
employed to stain glass green. No. 6. A fine
Yellow stolen—Take fine silver, laminated thin,
dissolve in nitric acid, dilute with abundance of
water, and precipitate with solution of sea-salt;
mix this chloride of silver in a dry powder, with
three times its weight of i e-clay, well burnt
and pounded. The back otPtlile glass pane is to
be painted with this powder; for, when painted on
the face, it is apt to run into the other colors.
A pale yellow can be made by mixing sulphuret
of silver with glass of antimony and yellow ochre,
previously calcined to a red-brown tint. Work
all these powders together, and paint on the back
of the glass. Or silver lamz'me, melted with
sulphur, and glass of antimony, thrown into cold
water, and afterwards ground to powder, afford
a yellow. A pale ellow may be made with the
powder resulting rom brass, sulphur, and glass
of antimony, calcined together in a crucible till
they cease to smoke, and then mixed with a little
burnt yellow ochre. T/ze fine yellow of M.
Meraud is prepared from chloride of silver, oxide
of zinc, and rust of iron. This mixture, simply
ground, is applied on the glass. Orange color.
Take I part of silver-powder, as precipitated
from the nitrate of that metal, by plates of cop-
per, and washed; mix with I part of red ochre,
and I of yellow, by careful trituration; grind
into a thin pa , with oil of turpentine or laven-
der; appily this with a brush, and burn in.
PHO 0 - LITHOGRAPH/C PROCESS,
Improved—In the first place, a solution is pre-
pared of bichromate of potash (chemically pure),
one part, water, twenty parts; and upon this a
carbon tissue is allowed to swim for a couple of
minutes. It is dried in an airtight box, contain-
ing fused chloride of calcium, within the space
of twenty-four hours, and may be preserved
many weeks without losing its sensitiveness.
The negative should be absolutely clear and

496

DICTIONAR Y 01“ E VER Y—DA Y WANTS.

 

transparent in the lines, and otherwise as opaque
as possible. The development is conducted,
after brief exposure, with an ordinary iron deve-
loper, and the negative subsequently intensified
with bichloride of mercury and sul hide of am-
monium in the usual manner. T e margin of
the negative is covered with Indian ink, or with
a paper mask fastened upon the reverse side of
the plate. In this way the development of the
picture is much improved, the pigment paper
extending well be ond the unsolarized margin.
The exposure varies from three quarters to one
minute in the sun, and from four to ten minutes
in diffused light.

For the development of the picture, an exceed-
ingly smooth lithographic stone is employed,
together with a sheet of fine filter paper, a
squeegee, a dish of rain water, and a supply of
hot water.

The print is first dipped into cold water, the
air bubbles dissipated, and then laced face
downwards on the stone. Without osing time,
the filter paper is at once placed upon the tissue,
and rubbed over well with the squeegee, a new
supply of paper being subsequently applied in
the same way, until the tissue is half dry. After
waiting two or three minutes, the stone is put in
a sloping position into a dish, and warm water
allowed to flow over the whole surface; and
under this treatment the unsolarized portions of
the pigment paper begin to swell visibly under
the paper in a very short time. The application
of warm water is continued until the paper back-
ing begins to leave the stone, and as soon as
there is not much resistance to the operation one
may proceed to draw it off. Upon the stone is
seen a dark mass of gelatine, which disa pears
as the washing goes on, until a sharply efined
image is the result. Upon the picture itself the
water must never be poured, but only allowed
to stream over the surface, as the lines are easily
injured, and for this reason the warm water is
applied from the edge of the stone.

When the image stands out clear and free, the
stone is immersed in cold. water until it has
become cool, which necessitates an interval of
some minutes. It is then leaned against a wall,
and allowed to dry spontaneously, when lines
which, in a moist state, were soft and hazy,
become sharp and defined.

The dry icture is now covered with a solution
of gum, as in the case of an ordinary lithographic
impression, and, after drying, again moistened,
and the lithographic ink repeatedly applied. The
stone may then be rolled up and printed from in
the ordinary press.

PLA S T ER, Adhesion—Take of common, or
litharge plaster, 5 parts, white resin, I part.
Melt them together, and spread the liquid com-
pound thin on strips of linen by means of a spa-
tula or table knife. This plaster is very adhe-
sive, and is used for keeping on other dressings,

etc.

PLASTER of PARIS—Plaster of Paris is
composed of anhydrous (without water) sulphate
of lime ; it is chiefly used for taking models and
casts, uniting slabs of marble and alabaster. It
should be mixed with water to the consistence
of thick cream, and then applied; it hardens
rapidly. Plaster of Paris may be considerably
strengthened by being mixed with thin glue, or
a solution of size and gum instead of water.
When mixed with iron filings to the proportion

 

of one-fifth the whole weight, plaster of Paris
may be used in uniting iron.

PLA S T ER qf PARIS, Working ty‘I—When
two to four per cent. of finely pulverized althea
root (marsh mallow) is mixed with plaster of
Paris, 1t retards the hardening, which begins
only after an hour’s time. When dry, it may be
filed, cut, or turned, and thus becomes of use in
making domino-stones, dies, brooches, snufil
boxes, etc. Eight per cent. retards the harden-
ing for a longer time, but increases the tenacity
of_ the mass. The latter may be rolled out on
wmdow glass into thin sheets, which never crack
in drying, may be easily detached from the glass,
and take on a polish readily by rubbing them.
This material, if incorporated with mineral or
other paints, and properly kneaded, gives very
fine imitations of marble, and can be colored
when dry, and can be made waterproof by 0-
lishing and varnishin . The chemist and c e-
mical manufacturer wi 1 find it an excellent luting
for vessels of every kind.

FLA S T E]? CA S TS, To T aka—The mate-
rial employed is the “plaster of Paris” of com-
merce, which is bought and sold by the barrel,
in the form of a white impalpable powder.
When a quantity of this dry powder is rendered
half fluid by thorough mixing with water until
the whole mass is about the consistency of thick
batter, the plastic material-1 will become solid in
a few minutes; and, in the course of a few hours,
every part will be near] as hard as white chalk.
This peculiar quality 0 plaster of Paris, of so-
lidifying so quickly after it has been mingled
with water, enables artists to take impressions of
forms, with admirable precision, which could not
be taken in any other way. Previous to taking
a cast, a mold must be made, having the exact
form and shape of the original delicately im-
pressed on the interior surface. Then the mold
is filled with plaster in a semi-fluid state. After
it has become hard, the mold is taken apart, and
the cast removed.

If, for example, it is desired to take a plaster
cast of a pear, the first step is to put about a
pint of the dry plaster into a how], after having
oiled the bowl with lard oil on the inside, to
prevent the material from adhering to it. Water
is then mixed with the plaster until it is so soft
that it might be poured out. Now oil the sur-
face of the pear thoroughly, and press the calyx
end down into the plaster, until the largest art
of the fruit is on a plane with the surface 0 the
plaster. Hold the fruit quite still, until the
plaster has become hard. Let it dry for a few
minutes, and then gently lift the pear from its
place. In case the plaster has been allowed to
rise above the bulge of the fruit, the surface
must be shaved away down to the lar est diame-
ter of the pear, before the latter can e extract-
ed. Re lace the pear, and dress the surface of
the mol with a sharp knife to a perfect level;
make four counter-sinks, half an inch deep, and
as large as the end of a man’s thumb, in the
surface of the mold, while it remains in the
bowl. Then oil the stem end of the fruit and
the upper surface of the mold, and with a case-
knife lay on a coat of plaster of Paris all around
the fruit, until it is covered to the thickness of
an inch. The stem of the fruit must he first re‘
moved, as it can not be drawn out of the mold.
The plastic material must be applied gradually,
as fast as it will solidify. Continue to lay on

MISCELLANEO US.

the semi-fluid material until the outside has been
brought up to the desired form, nearly square,
and at on the top. After this part of the mold
has become hard, lift it carefully from the lower
portion, and take out the pear. If the inside of
the mold is not sufficiently smooth, let the rough
places be dressed off, and the depressions filled
with plaster. Then oil the interior surface with
linseed oil, and allow it to dry. The mold is
now ready for use. To take a cast from it, bind
the two parts together, cut out a small hole on
one side, say an inch in diameter, and fill the
mold through this hole witlrthe prepared plas-
ter. After it has had sufficient time to become
hard, take the mold apart, and remove the cast,
which will appear, in every respect, like the
original, except in color. A small hole may be
bored for the stem, and a genuine stem may be
inserted, and fastened with alittle plaster; or
an artificial stem may be made, and introduced
to a sufficient depth to enable it to sustain the
weight of the cast.

When a cast of a person’s face, either alive or
after death, is desired, let the hair and whiskers
be modeled with potter’s clay, brushed back
smoothly, and oiled. Then prepare a quantity
of plaster in a shallow dish, and lay the head
back in it, to the desired depth, until it has be-
come hard. After the plaster has set, dress off
the edge of the mold and oil it. N ow proceed
to make another section of the mold over the
face, by oiling the surface, and applying the
plaster, as described above with reference to the
cast of a pear. During the operation upon a
hvrng person, he must breathe through his nos-
trils. As soon as the material has hardened,
lift‘it carefully, and remove the remaining sec-
tion of the mold. Depressions must be counter-
sunk always, in the edges of every section, to
receive the dowel-points of the corresponding
part of the mold. If the eyes are to be repre-
sented as open, depressions must be carved in
the mold corresponding to the eyelids and brows.
Now smooth and oil the inner surface of the
mold with linseed oil; let it become dry; turn
in plaster through the orifice left by the neck,
roll the mold over and over, until every depres-
sron has been filled. After the material has be-
come dry, remove the sections of the mold. If
there be wrinkles or depressions with overhang-
ing edges, which will hold the mold, they must
be first filled, so that every section of the mold
may be lifted off, without fracturing the corners.
The depressions around and in the ears, for in-
stance, must be first filled out, and smoothed
off, before the mold is made. Otherwise the
sections could not be lifted off. A beginner may
exercise his skill in taking casts ofa hand, or of
any other simple object which will require a
mold of only two parts.

PLASTER CASTSry‘Nrttuml Objects, To
T aka—The material of the mold is artists’
mobeling-wax, which is a composition akin to
that used by dentists; and, as it becomes soft
and plastic by the application of heat, though in
' a cold state it is perfectly rigid, it maybe applied
to the most delicate object without injury. As
it takes the most minute markings and striations
of the original to which it is applied, the micro-
scopic structure of the surface of the original is
faithfully reproduced in the cast. This method is
briefly this: I. Cover the object to be cast with
a thin powder of steatite or French chalk, which

 

497

prevents the adhesion of the wax. 2. After the
wax has become soft, either from immersion in
warm water, or from exposure to the direct heat
of the fire, apply it to the original, being careful
to press it into the little cavities. Then carefully
cut off the edges of the wax all round, if the
undercutting of the object necessitates the mold
being in two or more pieces, and let the wax
cool with the object in it, until it is sufficiently
hard to bear the repetition of the operation on the
uncovered portion of the object. The steatite
prevents the one piece of the mold sticking to
the other. The original ought to be taken out
of the mold before the latter becomes perfectly
cold and rigid, as in that case it is very difficult
to extract. 3. Then pour in plaster of Paris,
after having wetted the moulds to prevent bub-
bles of air lurkingin the small interstices; and,
if the mold be in two pieces, it is generally
convenient to fill them with plaster separately
before putting them to ether. 4. Then dry the
plaster casts either whol yor partially. 5. Paint the
casts in water-colors, which must be fainter than
those of the original, because the next process
adds to their intensity. The delicate shades of
color in the original will be marked in the cast
bythe different quantity of the same color, which
is taken up by the different textures of the cast.
6. After drying the cast, steep it in hard pan-affine.
The ordinary parafline candles, which can be
obtained from any grocer, will serve the purpose.
7. Cool, and polish the cast by hand with stea-
tite. The result of this process is said to be far
better than that obtained by any other.

PLA 5 TEE CA 5 TS, from Uném'nedeprum.
——Thisis simply to use in place of water a solution
of potash or soda; or to mix the dry pulverized
gypsum (sulphate of lime) with about an equal
amount of sulphate of potash, and then add the
water. As the relative quantities of gypsum,
potash, or soda and water to be used depend
greatly on the quality of the gypsum and alkalies,
it is best to experiment in order to find what-
proportions will give the desired hardness.

PLASTER CASTS, To Give an Alabaster
Eflct to.~—Plaster of Paris figures may be made
to look like alabaster by dipping them in a strong
solution of alum water.

PLASTER CASTS, To Harden—Take two
parts of stearine, two parts of Venetian soap,
one part of pearlash, and twenty-four to thirty
parts of a solution of caustic potash. The stearine
and soap are cut into slices, mixed with the cold
lye, and boiled for about half an hour, being con-
stantly stirred. Whenever the mass rises, a little.
cold lye is added. The pearlash, previously
moistenedwith a little rain water, is then added,
and the whole boiled for a few minutes. The.-
mass is then stirred until cold, when it is mixed
with so much lye that it becomes perfectly liquid,
and runs off the spoon without coagulating and
contracting. Before using this composition, it
should be kept for several days well covered. It
may be preserved for years. Before applying it
to the objects, they should be well dusted, the
stains scraped away, and then coated, by means
of a thick brush, with the wash, as long as the
plaster of Paris absorbs it, and left to dry. The
coating is then dusted with leather, or a soft
brush. If the surface has not become shining,
the operation must be repeated.

PLASTEIB CASTS, To Toug/zm.—-A New
England chemist says that he has succeeded in

32

498

making plaster casts so tOugh that theywill bear
the driving of a nail into them without cracking,
by immersing them for a sufficient time in a hot
solution of glue, to permit its permeating the
entire mass.

PLASTER FIGURES, Amalgamfor Var-
nis/ling—Take tin, mercury, and bismuth, equal
parts; fuse and cool, then make the amalgam into
a varnish with white of egg.

Pl. UMB RULE, T o [Makes—Plane the face
straight and out of wind. Plane one edge
straight and square with the face. Run a gage
mark to the proper width; plane to the mark ex-
actly; gage to a thickness on each edge; plane
to the marks. Run a gage mark through the
center for the plumb or corcl line. Saw a hole
in the bottom for the bob. Cut a saw cut in the
top of the line for the cord; and a slanting saw
out each side of the center one, to fasten the
cord into. Geometrically it is correct to “strike
a circle at each end, and to plane so as to touch
the sides of the circle ;“ practically, it is next to
impossible to touch the circle exactly and have
the rule exactly straight between them.

PL Uzi/BA 00, To Test—The value of plum-
bago or graphite depends on its amount of car-
bon. In order to ascertain this, the latest,
simplest, and best method is to dry the pulver-
ized graphite at a temperature of some 350°
Fahr., and then place it in a tube, four or five
inches long and half an inch wide, made of hard
glass, and closed at one end. To this is added
about twenty times as much well-dried oxide of
lead, and the whole is well mixed. The tube is
then first weighed, and afterwards heated before
the blow-pipe till the contents are completely
fused and no longer evolve gases. After this
operation, which does not last longer than ten
minutes (if the quantity is not too large), the
tube is allowed to cool, and its weight is then
ascertained. The loss in weight is carbonic acid,
the oxygen of which has been taken from the
lead oxide; while the carbon is all that there was
in the plumbago. For every twenty-eight parts
ofloss there must have been twelve of carbon.
In general, it is sufficient to take from one to two
grammes of plumbago and from twenty to forty
of oxide of lead.

POLISH ( Franc/z), For Boots, Shoat and
Harmrs.——Take two pints of the best vinegar
and one pint of soft water; stir into the mixture
3 quarter of a pound of glue broken fine, half a
pound of logwood chips, a quarter of an ounce
of finely-powdered indigo, a quarter of an ounce
of the best soft soap, and a quarter of an ounce
of isinglass. Boil for ten minutes or longer;
then strain the liquid, bottle, and cork. When
cold, it is fit for use.

Remove the dirt from the boots, etc., with a
sponge and water. Then lay on the polish with
a clean sponge. Should it prove too thick, hold
it near the fire to warm a little, and the heat will
quuefy it sufficiently.

POTTER Y, Earl]; and Alkali“ Used in.—
Tcha (ii sienna .' deep brown or coffee color,
fine, compact, very light, very smooth and glossy,
does not color the hands; when wetted, marks
a fine yellow upon paper; burns to a pale
brownish red color, but does not harden; comes
from Italy, and an inferior sort from Wycombe.

Burnt trrra di sienna is used as a paint.

London blue clay: dark bluish; used for
luting vessels in distilling acids, but requires

 

D] C T! ONA R Y 017 E VER Y-DA Y WA ZVTS.

another luting over it to keep it moist and to
prevent its cracking; it is also used for pottery,
for lining ponds, and for modeling.

Devonshire blue clay is fat, tough, makes
white solid pottery, but is expensive.

Devonshire black clay makes cream ware.

Devonshire cracking clay is gray, burns to a
beautiful white, but is apt to crack in the firing.
Common clay, used for artificial stones, as bricks,
etc., and common pottery.

Fuller’s earth is grayish brown, but varies
greatly; hard, very compact, rough, but scrap-
ing glossy, does not color, burns hard and yel-

lowish brown, being very fine, and absorb:

grease very readily ; used to full woolens.

Rotten stone is ash brown, very light, mode-
rately hard, dry, coloring, burns to a deep ash
color, but not harder; used as acolor, and to
give a polishing powder for metals; is to be
found in Derbyshire.

Umber is fine, pale brown, close, very light,
dry, coloring, burns deep reddish brown, but
no harder; used as a color, and to give porce-
lain the shining ground called écaille; comes
from Turkey.

Burnt umber is used for paint, makes a good
shade for gold; both these umbers are excellent
shades or dead colors, having a good body.

Windsor loam, Hedgerly loam, is yellowish
brown, very hard, heavy, harsh, coloring slight-
ly, burns very hard, and to a fine deep red;
used for setting bricks of wind furnaces, glass-
house furnaces, also for luting, and coating
g‘ass and earthen vessels to be exposed to a.
s rong fire.

Bath bricks from \Vindsor loam made into
bricks ; used for a coarse polishing powder. ‘

Founder’s clay or penny earth is dusky brown,
very hard, heavy, harsh, not coloring; found at
VVoolwich and in Northamptonshire; used for
molds in large foundries.

Cheam clay is of light ash color,nearly white and
very hard; used for the body of glazed gallipots.

Bohemian tripoli is of light ash color, heavy,
moderately hard, open, harsh, dusty, but not
coloring, not altered by burning; used for pol-
ishing and plate powder.

T 5773 verte is deep bluish green, very heavy,
hard, smooth, glossy, not coloring, but marking
a green line, taste coppery, burns very hard and
to a dusky brown ; found near Rome, also near
Woolwich; used as alasting, but not bright,
green paint.

Algile de Sawi e is blue, very tough, sandy;
used to make the rench pottery dcgrés or stone-
ware.

Argile dei- Forges-ler-taux is blue; used to,
make glass-house pots and stoneware.

Welsh clay: used to make Welsh fire clumps
for building fire rooms of steam engine furnaces.

French chalk is greenish, semi-transparent,
compact, smooth, unctuous, glossy, not color-
ing, scrapes white, marks an unctuous silve
line, burns very hard and white; used to mar
cloth, to take out grease, and cause boots to sli
on easily; it is frequently confounded wit
Spanish chalk.

Myrsen meerschaum is cpale grayish green, re.
sembling tallow droppe upon brass, close,
heavy, smooth, unctuous, glossy, not coloring,
burning extremely hard and pale white; used
as soap, and to make the large German tobacco
pipes, or rather the bowls of them.

MISCELLANEO US.

499

 

White American bolus is bright, white, com-
pact, very smooth and soft, not coloring, burns
very hard, and at last forms a whitish glass.

Pearl white: light, smooth, not unctuous
nor coloring; burns to a very pale yellowish
white.

Tobacco-pipe clay: smooth, unctuous, slight-
ly colorin , but is rather hard and very white;
used princxpally to make tobacco pipes and white
stonewares.

White lumber stone is used to take stains of
grease out of woolen cloth.

Soap rock or Spanish chalk is white, firm,
compact, weighty, hard, smooth, unctuous, not
coloring; writes upon glass, and, if rubbed off,
the marks become again visible by breathing
upon the place, and, therefore, very useful in
painting on glass, the engraving being after-
wards hardened by fire, and, therefore, prefer-
able for staining by fluoric acid.

Kaolin or porcelain clay is dry, friable, unfu-
sible; that of Cornwall is used to make English
china and fine pottery; that of Limoges, to make
Sévres china, and is exported to most all coun-
tries of the globe. In earlier and the present
times, similarly famous for their beautiful gild-
ing and paintings, these articles are made in the
manufactures of Meissen, and at Berlin and
Passau, to make china for Saxony, Prussia, and
Austria.

White chalk is white, soft, will mark linen
when newly burned; it grows hot with water,
and falls into powder, and is then made into
crayons for painters.

Terra cimolia is white, compact, smooth, co-
loring, burning rather harder, found in the island
Argentiere ; it is used to wash clothes.

Hard chalk is coarse.

Spanish white, 61am (Papaya flan: d: troyts‘,
are made from soft chalks by washing and making
into large balls for cheap white painting, and
covering papers, cards, etc.

Prepared chalk is made by precipitation from
a solution of muriate of lime, by a solution of
sub-carbonate of soda in water, and washing the
sediment.

Magnesia is white, and is obtained by preci-
pitating the bittern or liquor left,in the boiling
of sea water, after the common salt has been
separated, by a lye of wood ashes or sub-carbonate
of potash.

Sub-carbonate of magnesia is made up while
drying into large cubes, the edges beveled; is
powdered by being rubbed through a sieve.

Gelatinous alumine, hydrate of alumine, or
pure alumine, not dried, but in a moist state, is
used to mix cobalt in an oxidized condition, and
other oxides, as a basis for the color.

Baum’s white of alum: Roman alum, one
pound, honey, one half pound, calcined in a
shallow dish to whiteness.

Blane d: Bougival or gera earth is silver ,
silky, white, very fine and glossy if rolled with a
glass roller; used to make enamel surfaces on
paper or cardboard; is effervescent with acids,
and used as well as fine whiting.

PORCELAIN 0R CHINA , To Make.—
Porcelain, or china, is a semi-vitrified earthen-
ware of an intermediate nature betweencommon-
ware and glass. Chinese orcelain is composed
of two ingredients, one otP which is hard-stone,
called petunse,whichis carefully ground to a very
fine powder, and the other, called kaolin, is a white

 

earthy substance, which is intimately mixed with
the ground stone. -

Several compositions of mingled earth may
yield a true porcelain by being burnt, and the
porcelains of various countries differ in their mix-
tures. But the principal basis of any true porce-
lainis that kind of clay which becomes white by
baking, and which, either by intermingled hete-
rogeneous earth,or by particular additions, under-
goes in the fire an incipient vitrification, in which
the true nature of porcelain consists. F eldspar
and gypsum, if added, may give that property to
infusible clay. ,

When porcelain is to be made, the clay is
properly selected, carefully washed from impuri-
ties, and again dried. It is then finely sifted, and
most accurately mingled with quartz, ground very
fine, to which then is added some burnt and
finely pulverized gypsum. This mass is worked
with water to a paste and duly kneaded; it is
usually suffered to lie in this state for years. The
vessels and other goods formed of this mass are
first moderately burnt in earthen pots, to receive
a certain degree of compactness and to be ready
for glazing. The glazing consists of an easily-
melted mixture of some species of earths, as the
petrosilex or chert, fragments of porcelain and
gypsum, which, when fused together, produce a
crystalline or vitreous mass, which, after cooling,
is very finely ground, and sus ended ina sufficient
quantity of water. Into this uid the rough ware
is dipped, by which the glazing matter is depo-
sited uniformly on every part of its surface. After
drying, each article is thoroughly baked or burned
in the violent heat of the porcelain furnace. It
is usual to decorate porcelain by paintings, for
which purpose enamels or pastes, colored b
metallic oxides, are used, so easy of fusion as to
run in a heat less intense than that in which the
glazing of the ware melts.

PORCELAIN (Englzlr/z), To Mata—The
iron-stone, which contains a portion of argil and
silex, is first roasted in a common biscuit-kiln,
to facilitate its trituration, and to expel sulphur
and other volatile ingredients which it may con—
tain. A large earthen crucible is constructed
after the exact model of an iron forge, a part of
the bottom of which is filled with charcoal or
cokes; these having been reviously strewed with
ore and about % part 0 lime, are raised to an
intense heat by a strong blast of air, introduced
under the cokes at the bottom. By this heat
the ore is fused, and the fluid iron drops through
the fuel to the bottom; then follows the scoria,
which floats upon the top of the fluid iron.
This latter scoria, or, as the workmen call it, .
slag, is the material used in the manufacture of
china, and is much impregnated with iron, and
of acompact and dense structure. The slag is
next let off, by a hole through the forge, into a
clean earthen vessel, where it cools. This last
vessel is then broken, in order to detach the
slag from it, with hammers. The scoria is next
pounded into small pieces and ground in water
to the consistence of a fine paste, at the flint-
mills. of the country. This paste is then evapor-
ated to dryness on a slip-kiln, well known
amongst potters. Thus evaporated to dr ness,
it is used with the other ingredients in the ollow-
ing proportions, viz.:

Prepared iron-stone, 3 cwt.; ground flint, 4
cwt.; ground Cornwall stone, 4cwt.; Cornwall
clay, 4 cwt.; blue oxide of cobalt, 1 1b.

500

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DA Y WANTS.

 

These having been mixed together with water
by the slip-maker, are again evaporated on the
slip-kiln to the proper consistency for use.‘ The
clay, thus prepared, is of course used in the usual
manner in the fabrication of the several kinds of
vessels.

POTASSIUM, Sniffing/amid) q/Z—Mix to-
gether 46 parts of anhydrous fer-rocyanide of
potassium, I7 parts of carbonate of potassa, and
32 parts of sulphur; introduce the mixture into
an iron pan provided with a lid, and fuse at a

gentle heat; maintain the same temperature un-

til the swelling of the mass which ensues at first

\ has completely subsided and given place to a

state of tranquil and clear fusion; increase the
temperature now, towards the end of the opera-
tion to dull redness, in order to decompose the
hyposulphite of potassa which has been formed
in this process. Remove the half refrigerated
and still soft mass from the pan, pulverize it,
and boil with alcohol. Let the alcoholic solution
cool, when part of the sulphocyanide of potas-
sium will separate in colorless crystals; to ob-
tain the remainder, distill the alcohol from the
mother liquor. Dissolve I part of the salt in lo
parts of water for use.

PRIIVTS and PRINTED BOOKS, To
Blank—Simple immersion in chlorine gas, let-
ting the article remain in it a longer or shorter
spice of time, according to the strength of the
liquor, will be sufficient to whiten an engraving.
If it is required to whiten the paper of a bound
book, as it is necessary that all the leaves should
be acted on by the gas, care must be taken to
Open the book well, and to make the boards rest
on the edge of the vessel, in such a manner that
the paper alone shall be dipped in the gas. The
leaves must be separated from each other, in
order that they may be equally acted on on both
sides. Chlorine water, freshly made, will an-
swer instead of the gas.

PRINTED SHEETS, To Clean.—~A me-
thod recommended by a foreign contemporary
for cleaning printed matter and engravings con-
sists in fastening the sheet to a board by broad-
headed tacks, and washing it with clean water,
to which a slight percentage of carbonate of am-
monia has been added. This process must be
conducted very carefully with a soft brush. The
paper is then to be rinsed off with water, and
the operation repeated on the back side as soon
as it is dried. It is then to be moistened with
water acidulated with pure wine vinegar, and
again washed with water, to which a little chlor-
ide of lime has been added. Finally, it is washed
off again and dried in the air by sunlight. In
this way it becomes extremely white without any
injury to the impression. Some valuable engrav-
ings have, it is said, been completely restored
by this method.

PRINTING ROLLERS—These are made
of treacle and glue, with sometimes a little Paris
white, etc. The proportions are about % lb. of
glue to 1% lb. of treacle; the glue is broken to
pieces. soaked for 24 hours in sufficient water,
then melted with the treacle, and cast into a
mold previously oiled. On removing the com-
position it forms a cylinder without a seam, elas-
tic, like India rubber, yet sufficiently soft to ink
the type without injuring them. When it gets
hard, which happens in 2 to 4 months, accord-
ing to the weather, etc., it is necessary to re-melt
it, adding a little more treacle. Used to ink the

 

type for letter press. If the composition is too
hard, the ink does not spread evenly; if too soft,
pieces are torn away from the roller. When the
printing is finished, the roller is rubbed over a
sink stone with cold water, which dissolves a
little of the external coat, and so leaves it clear
of ink.

PUMP (Nautical), Self/161mg. -— Captain
Leslie, in a voyage from North America to
Stockholm, adopted an excellent mode of emp-
tying water from his ship’s hold, when the crew
were insufficient to perform that duty. About
ten or twelve feet above the pump he rigged out
a spar, one end of which projected overboard,
while the other was fastened as alever to the
machinery of the pump. To the end which pro-
jected overboard was suspended at water-butt,
half full, but corked down, so that when the
coming wave raised the butt-end, the other end
depressed the piston of the pump; but at the
retiring of the wave, this was reversed, for, by
the weight of the butt, the piston came up again,
and with it the water. Thus, without the aid of
the crew, the ship’s hold was cleared of the wa-
ter in a few hours.

A very useful hint may be taken from this
plan; when a vessel has much water, and there
are not hands enough to work the pumps, one
pump might be arranged on this plan, and the
other fully manned in the usual way.

QUEENSWARE, To [Walla—This is made
of the same materials as the flintware, but the
proportion in which the materials are mixed is
not the same, nor is the ware glazed in the same
way. The flintware is generally made of four
measures of liquid flint, and 18 of liquid clay;
the yellow ware has a greater proportion of clay
in it. In some manufactories they mix 20, and
in others 24 measures of clay with 4 of flint.
The proportion for both sorts of ware depends
very much upon the nature of the clay, which is
very variable even in the same pit. Hence a
previous trial must be made of the quality of the
clay, by burning a kiln of the ware. If there
be too much flint mixed with the clay, the ware,
when exposed to the air after burning, is apt to
crack, and if there be too little, the ware will
not receive the proper glaze from the circulation
of the salt vapor.

QUILLS, German Met/rod qf Pr¢a7ing.-—
Suspend the quills in a copper over water, suffi-
ciently high to touch the nibs; then close it
steam-tight, and apply four hours’ hard boiling;
next withdraw and dry them, and in 24 hours
cut the nibs and draw out the pith; lastly, rub
them with a piece of cloth and expose them to a
moderate heat. The quills prepared in this way
are as hard as bone, without being brittle, and
as transparent as glass.

RA G CARPE T S.——These indispensable ar-
ticles of the house are made and highly prized,
in nearly all families in the country. The sug-
gestions of the experienced may lessen the labor
of making them to the inexperienced, besides
making a better looking carpet.

First, the rags or old garments ought to be
washed clean; then rip them to pieces, rejecting
the parts too worn to be used; if not ready to
color them, tie in bundles all that are to
be colored each color, and any that do not
need coloring may be cut and sewed, or tied
up by themselves, if not ready to commence
the work. All woolen ones ought to be

MISCELLANEOUS.

kept in linen sacks, to exclude the moths from
them.

Any light, mixed, or plaided woolens may be
improved in color by dipping in a good red dye.
Clean white rags can be colored yellow, orange,
blue, or green. Dingy white rags wxll look well,
colored hemlock color and set with lime. This
is a cheap, pretty and durable color for some of
the rags and the warp. Bits of bark may be
gathered around saw mills, when one cannot get
it elsewhere; boil enough bark to make a strong
dye, and add to it a little clear lime water, after
removing all bits of bark or straining the dye.
If dregs remain in any dye, it will spot the cloth
or yarn.

If a smooth parlor carpet is wanted, the rags
must be cotton, and other rags that are made of
fine yarn. Coarse-threaded woolen rags make
a carpet look rough, and though it may do well
enough for a kitchen, it is not so nice for a
parlor.

Unless the rags are light, it will take a pound
and a half, and sometimes more, for each yard
of carpet. To know when sufficient rags are
prepared for the number of yards wanted, the

repared rags must be weighed. If the rags are
light, it will not take quite a pound and a half;
but if they are coarse-threaded or woolen rags,
it will take some more than a pound and a half,
if the carpet is well beaten up.

If a striped carpet is wanted, tear each color
separately, and mix together the different shades
of the same color when sewing; this will make
the carpet more uniform in color and prettier
than if some stripes contained all the brightest
colors, and others paler ones, which they will,
if the shades of the same color are not mixed in
sewing. A carpet always looks much better if
all the breadths are uniform in color, and by
mixing the shades of the same color in sewing
them it will be so. ~

For a hap-hazard carpet, all different colors
may be mixed in sewing. This will use up all
short rags, of any color or shade, and often
makes a very pretty carpet, which may be woven
easier and cheaper than a striped carpet. Short

ieces, or those not more than three or four yards
lbng, alternated with shorter ones, look the best
in this kind of carpet.

For warp, good strong prepared yarn is the
best, and saves much labor. It may be reeled
into skeins of five knots before coloring, allowing
one skein to a yard, and about three knots over
to be woven in at the end of each breadth, for
binding. '

Measure the inside of the room, and let the
weaver know how long to make each breadth.
Carpets will shrink a little in length from the
weaver’s measure after they come out of the loom,
but will often stretch a little in width. The
stripes will match the best, if the edges on the
same side of the loom are sewed together, as the
different sides of the loom sometimes vary a little.

RAILROAD SIGNALS—The varieties of
he “toot” of the locomotive, and gyrations of
rue arms of the conductors by day, or lanterns
by night, are about as intelligent to most people
as first-class Choctaw. The following will give
the reader a correct idea of their signification:

One whistle—“Down brakes.”

Two whistles—“Off brakes.”

Three whistles—“Back up.”

Continuous-whistles—~“Danger.”

 

so:

A rapid succession of short whistles is the
cattle alarm, at which the brakes will always be
put down.

A sweeping parting of hands on level of eyes,
is a signal to “go ahead.”

Adownward motion of the hand, with extended
arms, “to stop.” '

A beckoning motion of one hand, “to back. ”

A lantern raised and lowered vertically, is a
signal for “starting;” swung at right angles or
crossways the track, “to stop;” swung in a circle,
“to back the train.”

A red flag waved upon the track must be re-
gardedas a signal of danger. So of other signals
given with energy.

Hoisted at a station is a-signal for a train “to
stop.” '

Stuck up by the roadside, it is a signal of
danger on the train ahead.

Carried unfurled upon an engine, is a warning
that another engine or train is on its way.

RAZOR, To Hone and Strap—Let the hone
be seldom and but sparingly resorted to, and
never, unless by frequent and repeated stropping
the edge of the razor is entirely destroyed; use
the best oil, and be careful to preserve the hone
clean and free from dust. Previously to the
operation of shaving, it will be found of service,
particularly to those who have a strong beard
and a tender skin, to wash the face well with
soap and water, and the more time is spent in
lathering and moistening the beard, the easier
will the process of shaving become. Dip the
razor in hot water before applying it to the face;
use the blade nearly flat, always taking care to
give it a cutting instead ofa scraping direction.
Strop the razor immediately after using it, for
the purpose of effectually removing any moisture
that may remain upon the edge, and be careful
not to employ a common strop, as the composition
with which they are covered is invariably of a
very inferior quality, and injurious to a. razor.
The strop should always be of the best manufac-
ture, and when the composition is worn off it
will be found particularly useful to rub it over,
lightly, with a little clean tallow, and then put
upon it the top part of the snuff of acandle,
which being a fine powder, will admirably supply
the place of the best composition ever used for
the purpose. Another excellent mode of renova-
ting arazor-strop is by rubbing it well with
pewter, and impregnating the leather with the
finest metallic particles. '

RAZOR-STROP PASTE.—t. Levigated
oxide of tin (prepared putty powder) I 02.;
powdered oxalic acid % oz. ; powdered gum 20
grs.; make it into a stiff paste with water, and
evenly and thinly spread it over the strap.
With very little friction this paste gives a fine
edge to the razor, and its efficiency is still fur-
ther increased by moistening it.—2. Emery re-
duced to an impalpable powder 2 parts; sper-
maceti ointment I part; mix together, and rub \
it over the strop.-—-3. Jewelers’ rouge, black
lead, and suet, equal parts; mix.

RAZOR PAPER—This article supersedes
the use of the ordinary strop; by merely wiping
the razor on the paper, to remove the lather
after shaving, a keen edge is always maintained
without further trouble ; only one caution is ne-
cessary—that is, to begin with a sharp razor,
and then “the paper” will keep it in that state
for years. It may be prepared thus: First,

502

DICTIONARY OF EVERY-DAY WAZVTS.

 

procure oxide of iron (by the addition of carbon-
ate of soda to a solution of persulphate of iron),
well wash the precipitate, and finally leave it of
the consistency of cream. Secondly, procure a
good paper, soft and thin, then with a soft brush
5 read over the paper (on one side only) very
t inly the moist oxide of iron-dry, and cut into
two inch square pieces. It is then fit for use.

RAZOR S T ROP, To Harmonies—I. Rub a
little clean tallow over the? surface, and then put
on it the light top part of the snuff ofa candle;
rub it smooth. Excellent—2. Rub the strop
well with a piece of soft pewter or lead.

REFRI GER/1 T OR, Home Mada—See
“Ice Chest.”

RELA TIVE HEIGHTona’ WEIR/IT.—
The late Dr. John Hutchinson, after obtaining
the height and weight of over five thousand
persons, prepared the following tabular state-
ment, showing the relative height and weight
of persons in health:

5 feet I inch, 120 pounds.
5 feet 2 inches, 125 pounds.
5 feet 3 inches, 133 pounds.
5 feet 4 inches, I39 pounds.
5 feet 5 inches, 142 pounds.
5 feet 6 inches, 145 pounds.
5 feet 7 inches, 148 pounds.
5 feet 8 inches, 155 pounds.
5 feet 9 inches, 162 pounds.
5 feet 10 inches, 169 pounds.
5 feet 11 inches, 174 pounds.
6 feet, 178 pounds.

The above is the average; of course there are
many cases of variation.

RIIEUAIA TISM (Inflammatory), Pump-
kins fan—At a recent meeting of the New York
Farmers’ Club, a correspondent wrote of the
virtues of the pumpkin, giving the following in-
stance of its value for inflammatory rheumatism:
A woman’s arm was swelled to an enormous size
and painfully inflamed. A poultice was made
of stewed pumpkins, which was renewed every
fifteen minutes, and in a short time produced a
perfect cure. The fever drawn out by the poul-
tices made them extremely offensive, as they
were taken off. I knew a man cured of severe
inflammation of the bowels by the same kind of
application.

RHEUMA'TISZII in HORSES, To Cara——
Crude coal oil, I pint; strong vinegar, % pint;
turpentine, % pint, mixed, and well shaken.
To be rubbed on mornings and nights.

RHUBARB, Compound T inttm'e eff—Take
of rhubarb, sliced, 2 ounces; liquorice root,
bruised, % ounce; ginger, powdered, safl'ron,
each 2 drachms; distilled water, 1 pint; proof
spirits of wine, 12 ounces by measure. Digest
for 14 days, and strain. Dose, % ounce as an
aperient, or I ounce in violent diarrhoea.

RHUBARB, Sweet Tincture tyi—Take of
rhubarb, bruised, 2 ounces; liquorice root,
bruised, 2 ounces; aniseed, bruised, 1 ounce;
sugar, I ounce; diluted alcohol, 2 pints. Ma.-
cerate for fourteen days, express and filter.

ROADS, Repairing—This is an operation
which is or should be performed immediately
after the settling of the ground in the spring.
In agricultural districts it is often deferred till
later in the season. In this case the labor of

utting a road in good condition is often doubled.

t is as true of roads as of raiment that “a stitch
intime saves nine,” and if for the word stitch

 

we substitute ditch, the old saw will be even
more forcible in its meaning.

Winter makes sad havoc in the earth roads
which intersect the country in all directions. '
His frosts upheave, and the springs wash out
deep gulleys and ruts, and when at last the reign
of frost is over, that which was straight is all
crooked; level places are changed into alternate
rises and depressions, stones are left on the top,
and, in short, these roads become sloughs of
despond in which loaded teams wallow in de-
spair, and where wagons are left standing for
weeks up to the hubs in mud, simply because
it is beyond the power of horse flesh to extricate
them.

If, when the mud has dried, the ruts were
filled at once, and the ditches at the wayside
opened, much would be gained, but as this is
generally neglected, the June thunderstorms have
things all their own way. Sluices are filled,
bridges undermined and washed away, and, fin-
ally, when the “road master” summons the in-
habitants to turn out and work on the road, they
find plenty to do. The road is at last put into
passable condition, and remains so till the fall
rains and the marketing wagons again cut them
all up, and the snow following hides them from
View till the ensuing spring.

An old farmer once remarked to us that there
is no other work done by farmers that pays so
well as road making ; but there are few of them
that are far sighted enough to see that the sav-
ing effected by good roads in the current ex-
penses of repairs in wagons and harnesses, and
the increase of loads which can be carried, pay
liberally for the work, which they do grudgingly,
when at last it is performed.

ROCA’ BLA S TIN G.—Sawdust of soft wood,
mixed with gunpowder in equal parts, is said to
have thrice the strength of gunpowder alone,
when used in blasting.

ROCKWOA’K', Artificial Coral jinn—Take
four parts of yellow resin and one part of ver~
milion, and melt them together; dip twigs,
cinders or stones in this mixture, and it will give
them the appearance of coral; and is applicable
to rockwork, grotto, or any fancy work, as a
substitute for that costly artie.

ROPES, Ruler for Computing tfie Strength
q/r—TO find what size rope you require, when
roven as a tackle, to lift a given weight. Divide
the weight to be raised by the number of parts
at the movable block, to obtain the strain on a.
single part; add one third of this for the in-
creased strain brought by friction, and reeve the
rope of corresponding strength. . ~

One sixth of 40 tons is 6% tons, which, With

one third added, is 9 tons nearly, for which you
should reeve a six inch or six anda half inch
ro e.
IElonversely :—To find what weight a given
rope will lift when rove as a tackle: Multipliy
the weight that the rope is capable of suspen -
ing by the number of parts at the movable
block, and subtract one fourth of this for re-
sistance.

Thus: 8.9 tons, the strength of the r0pe, mul-
ti lied by 6, the number of parts at the movable
bibck, minus 13. 3 or one fourth, gives 40.1 tons
as the weight required. .

Wire rope is more than twrce the strength
of hem rope of the same. circumference; rzplimng
a rope lS supposed to it'm‘u‘n it one ergh

MISCELLANEOUS.

The strongest description of hemp rope is un-
tarred, white, three stranded rope; and the next
in the scale of strength is the common three
strand, hawser laid rope, tarred. _

ROPE, To Make Flexiélt.—New,_ stiff rope
may be made flexible by simply bailing it two
hours in water, and then hanging it in a warm
room to dry thoroughly. ' .

ROOFS, Fireproof Was/z fan—Slake lime in
a close box to prevent the escape of steam, and
when slaked pass it through a Sieve. To every
six quarts of this lime add one quart of rock salt
and one gallon of water. After this bed and
skim clean. To every five gallons of this add,
by slow degrees, three quarters of a pound. of
potash and four quarts of fine sand. Coloring
matter may be added if desire . Apply With a
paint or whitewash brush. T is wash looks as
well as paint and is almost as durable as slate.
It will stop small leaks in a roof, prevent the
moss from growing over it, and render it incom-
bustible from sparks falling on it. When applied
to brick work, it renders the brick utterly im-
pervious to rain; it endures as long as paint, and
the expense is a mere trifle.

ROOFS, Mars on.—Don’t let the moss gather
on the roofs of your buildings. It may be orna-
mental to some eyes, but not very beneficial to
the shingles. They will rot fast enough by the
moisture it retains; so sprinkle some fine lime
upon them just before a rain, and you will be
surprised to see how clean it will be taken off.

RUBBER HOSE, To Mend.—Cut the hose
apart where it is defective; obtain, from any gas-
fitter, a piece of iron pipe two or three inches
long; twist the hose over it until the ends meet,
wrap with strong twine, well waxed, and it will
last a long time.

SALT of LEA/0N3. —Take of cream of
tartar, 2 ounces; salt of sorrel (quadroxalate
of potassa), 4 ounces. Reduce both to fine
powder and mix. To remove fruit stains and
such like from linen, by rubbing a little of it on
the part, moistened with warm water.

SA NDAL WOOD, Spirit qfi—Take of oil of
sandal wood I 02., alcohol 2 02., oil of cinnamon
25 minims. Mix. Dose one or two drachms
three times a da .

SAN/)PAPER (Superior), T o Mata—Take
a quantity of broken window glass, (that which
has rather a green appearance on the edge is
best;) pound it in an iron mortar; then have two
or three sieves, of different degrees of fineness,
ready for use when wanted. Take any good
tough paper, (fine cartridge is the best,) level
the knobs and lumps on both sides with pumice—
stone, tack it at each corner on a board, and,
with good clear glue, diluted with about one third
more water than is used generally for wood-work,
go quickly over the paper, taking care to spread
it even with your brush; then, having your sieve
ready, sift the pounded glass over it lightly, yet
so as to cover it in every part ; let it remain till
the glue is set, take it from the board, shake off
the superfluous glass into the sieve, and hang it
in the shade to dry. In two or three days, it
will be fit for use.

The paper will be much better than any you
can buy, sand being frequently mixed with the
glass and colored to deceive the purchaser.

SCRE WSamt/VUTS, To Locum—When you
find screws and nuts have become fast from rust,
pour on them a. little kerosene or coal oil, and

 

503

wait a few moments till they become soaked with
the liquid. When this is done, they can be easin
started, and the bolt saved.

SEED, Quantity Required for a Given Num-
éer of Hills, or Lengt/t (f Drill.—Asparagus, I
oz. to 60 ft. drill; beet, I oz. to 50 ft. drill;
carrot, I 02. to 180 ft. drill; endive, I oz. to 150
ft. drill; onion, I oz. to 100 ft. drill; parsley,
I 02. to 150 ft. drill; parsnip, I oz. to 200 ft.
drill; radish, I oz. to I00 ft. drill; spinach, I
oz. to 100 ft. drill; turnip, I oz. to 150 ft. drill;
peas, I qt. to 100 ft. drill; dwarf beans, I qt. to
150 hills; com, I qt. to 200 hills; cucumber, I
oz. to 50 hills; watermelon, I oz. to 30 hills;
muskmelon, I oz. to 60 hills; pumpkin, I oz. to
40 hills; early squash, I oz. to 50 hills; marrow
squash, I oz. to 16 hills; cabbage, I oz. to 3000
plants; cauliflower, I oz. to 3000 plants; celery,
I oz. to 4000 plants; egg plant, I oz. to 2000
plants; lettuce, I oz. to 4000 plants; pepper, I
oz. to 2000 plants; tomato, I 02. to 2000 plants.

SEED, Quantity Requirea’for the Acre, and
Actual I/Vezg/zt quac/z to lit: Bus/2e].—

To the Lbs.
. acre. to bush.
Wheat, broadcast ..... .... ..bushels. . . 1% to z 60
“ drilled .............. “ 1% 60 ‘
Rye, broadcast.... . ........ “ . . . 1% 56
“ drilled ............... “ . . . 1% “ 1% 56
Oats, broadcast ............ “ . . . 2 33
Timothy, “ ....... . . . . .gallons. . . 2 4 5
Red Clover, broadcast .. “ . . . 3 " 4 60
White Clover, "‘ . ... . . pounds. . . 8 so
Lucerne, broadcast ......... “ . . .m 54
Herd or Red Top, broadcast.bushels. . . I “ 1% 14
Blue Grass, broadcast ....... “ ... I “ 1‘2 14
Millet, “ ....... “ . .. % “ I 45
Hungarian, “ ....... “ . . . 34 “ I 50
Corn in hills ................ gallons. . . I: “ x% 56
Turnip and Ruta-baga ...... pounds. . . I so
Onion ets .............. . “

. . . 28

SEWING fl/ACHINES, Hints on Using.
—It is a fact known to all who use sewing ma-
chines that the prevailing difiiculty is the break-
ing of the thread. Nearly all other disarrange-
ments that occur, can usually be overcome by
any person of ordinary ingenuity; even though
they have had but a few weeks, or perhaps, days
experience in the use of a sewing machine.

This breaking, which is mostly with the upper
thread, may occur from an imperfect adjustment
of the tension. With new machines this is in-
variably the cause; but with those that have
been in use several months, the breaking (when
the tension is right) is produced by the threads
wearing into the guides, so that when a swelled
place in the thread reaches the narrow groove
which is worn to the exact width of the regular
size of the thread, not being allowed to pass
through, the thread breaks.

Of course this break may take place anywhere
from the point of the needle back to the grooved
guide which caught it. As it is usually at or
near the end of the needle, the real cause is very
generally overlooked. Many have been so
troubled with this continual breaking that it has
been necessary for them to lay aside their ma-
chines, when if this cause had been known to
them, by simply smoothing the guide holes with
a small round file, their trouble would have
ended. .

SHAMPOO L! Q UID.——-The simplest sham-
pooing liquid is the hest—-and this is made by
dropping borax, lump or powdered—into water
until no 'more borax will dissolve. There is no
danger of its getting too strong. This being
applied to the hair makes a. very good lather;

504

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

wash out with clean water, and when the hair has
dried—if harsh, use a very little oil or sweet oil
and cologne water mixed. A more elaborate
wash or shampooing liquid is used by barbers.
It is as follows: carbonate of ammonia % 02.,
carbonate of potash I 02., water I pint. Dissolve.
Then add tincture of cantharides 5 fluidounces,
best alcohol I pint, rum three quarts, shake up
well and let it stand a week before using; make
a good lather and stimulate the skin; healthy
skinned persons should not use it—their skin
does not want stimulating— they only want
cleansing.

SHA VING LIQUID.-——I. White soap, 3
ounces; proof spirit, 8 ounces; distilled water,
4 ounces ; carbonate of potash, I drachm; scented
with essence of lemon. Dissolve the soap with-
out heat, and add the potash and essence—2.
White soft soap, 16 ounces; oil of olives, % 02.;
gum benzoin, I draclim; rectified spirit, 24 02.;
digest. Rub a few drops on the beard, followed
by warm water.

SHA VING PASTE.—Melt together one
drachm each of spermaceti, white wax, and al-
mond oil; beat it up with 2 ounces of the best
white soap, and add a little lavender or cologne
water.

SKA TIIVG, Him: an.-——This delightful art
affords the most appropriate outdoor exercise and
amusement that can well be conceived for a winter
day; like some other practical arts, however—
swimming, for example—no amount of mere
theoretical instruction will enable a person who
knows nothing about it, so much as to stand with
skates on upon the ice, much less to glide along
its surface with the ease and grace of a skillful
performer. \Vhat is required is really very
simple, and is entirely of a practical kind. See
that your skates are neither too large nor too
small, that they fit your boot so tightly as to be
immovable, and that the blades are sharp. Put
them on and endeavor to stand on them on the
ice. It is wonderful how speedily, and, as it
were, instinctively, you will acquire the power of
balancing yourself, and moving on the slippery
surface. A fall or two may be unavoidable, but,
like some of the evils of human life, they will be
but a temporary inconvenience, bringing with
them greater security as experience increases.

We have no intention of presenting our read-
ers with an elaborate essay on the art of skating,
but shall confine ourselves to a few useful hints.
Without any minute descriptions of the instru-
ment, a remark or two as to the “iron” or blade
on which the skater stands may be made. Some-
times it is made plane at the bottom, and some-
times it is fluted. In our opinion the plane
surface is the better form. The height of this
“iron” ought to be an inch at the back and three-
fourths of an inch in front, and the curve in the
front should not project too far, but merely so
as to clear the toe well. As already hinted, the
skate ought to fit tightly and accurately, and to
this end it ought to be furnished with a screw,
to be screwed into the heel of the boot; these
will go far to render the skate perfectly steady
when properly strapped to the boot.

Presuming the skate securely fixed, and the
boot also tightly laced, the learner’s first attempt
must be to place himself in a perpendicular
attitude on the ice. It may be said that his first
slap is to rtmza’. The back of a chair placed be-
fore him, a stick shod with an iron spike, or the

 

friendly hand of an experienced acquaintance, wil
be found in this primary effort of great use. When
some tolerable degree of steadiness is acquired,
some attempt at locomotion may be made, and
in so adventurous an effort, especially if made by
any of our fair readers, avigorous arm to lean
upon on each side, will be found a great comfort,
till some degree of confidence is acquired, and
will act the part which cork floats or bladders do
toward the timid swimmer who suddenly finds
himself “out of his depth.”

If the learner intend to begin with his right
foot, he ought to keep the left knee straight and
firm, bending it only a little at the instant of
striking out, and vice versa so acting with the
left foot and right knee. The body ought to be
slightly inclined forwards, of course, so as—in
scientific langu ge—to “keep the centre of grav-
ity over the base,” the learner taking advantage
of the friendly support on each side as he strikes
out, and if such support is unattainable, making
the best use he can of his stick, and submitting
with his best grace to the inevitable necessity of
a sudden obedience to the law of gravitation in
the shape of a fall. The skater ought never to
look at his feet, nor at the ice near him, as by
doing so, he is very apt to increase the number
of his exploits in the way of tumbling, for it is
unquestionable that he can keep his balance
better by looking straight forwards than by
fixing his attention on the movement of his feet;
this, however, he will soon find by experience.
It is remarkable that this rule is exemplified in
intellectual and moral affairs; we are more likely
to attain a successful result by giving our atten-
tion rather to the ultimate object in view, although
it be remote, than by confining our prospect to
each minute and, perhaps, difficult ste ) which
leads to it. The learner, while keeping his head
up, ought to advance his body a little forwards.
By this means he will avoid abackward fall,
which is often a serious mischance. The learner’s
face ought always to be turned in the direction
to be followed. All movements in skating ought
to be smooth and graceful, and quite free from
jerking and awkward gestures. The act of stop-
ping is performed by slightly bending the knees,
bringing the heels together and bearing upon
them; it may also be accomplished by turning
short to the right or left.

It is only requisite further to add that the
method of skating in certain figures is not difficult
to acquire when proficiency in the art is attained;
to furnish learners with precepts for those per-
formances on the ice, which imply a large amount
of experience, is hardly requisite, for the art of
moving over the ice in figures is itself learnt in
the act of learning to skate.

SIZIZVG for BOOTS and SEIOES in Tree«
ing out—Take water 1 qt., and dissolve in it,
by heat, isinglass I 02.; adding more water to
make up for evaporation ; when dissolved, add
starch 6 02.; extract of logwood, beeswax, and
tallow, of each 2 02.; and continue the heat until
all is melted and well mixed. Rub the starch
up first, by pouring on sufficient boiling water
for that purpose.

SILK, Gz'la’z'ng on.—Silks, satins, woolens,
ivory, bone, etc., may be readily gilded by im-
mersing them in a solution of nitro~muriate (ter-
chloride) of gold, (I of the salt to 3 or 4 of wa-
ter,) and then exposing them to the action of
hydrogen gas. The latter part of the process

MISCELLANEOUS.

may readily be performed by pouring some di-
luted sulphuric acid on zinc or iron filings, in a
bottle, and placing it under a jar or Similar ves-
sel, inverted, at the top of which the articles to
be gilded are to be suspended. ‘

The foregoing experiment may be very prettily
and advantageously varied as followsz—Pamt
flowers or other ornaments with a very fine camel-
hair pencil, dipped in the above mentioned solu-
tion of gold, on pieces of silk, satin, etc., and
hold them over a Florence flask, from which
hydrogen gas is evolved, during the decomposi-
tion of the water by sulphuric acid and iron fil-
ings. The painted flowers, etc., in a few min-
utes will shine with all the splendor of the
purest gold. A coating of this kind will not
tarnish on exposure to the air, or in washing.

SILK ( Vamz'r/zed), T o Prepara—Varnished
silk, for making umbrellas, capots, coverings
for hats, etc., is prepared in the same manner as
the varnished and polished cloths already de-
scribed, but with some variation in the liquid
paste or varnish. If the surface of the silk be
pretty large, it is made fast to a wooden frame
furnished with hooks and movable pegs, such
as.that used in the manufacture of common var-
nished cloths. A soft paste, composed of linseed-
oil boiled with a fourth part of litharge; tobacco-
pi e clay, dried and sifted through a silk sieve,
I parts; litharge, ground on porphyry with
water, dried and sifted in the same manner, 3
parts, and lampblack, I part. This aste is then
spread in a uniform manner over t e surface of
the silk by means of a long knife, having a
handle at each extremity. In summer, 24 hours
are sufficient for its desiccation. When dry, the
knots produced by the inequalities of the silk
are smoothed with pumice-stone. This opera-
tion is performed with water, and, when finished,
the surface of the silk is washed. It is then
suffered to dry, and fat copal varnish is applied.
If it be intended to polish this varnish, apply a
second stratum, after which polish it with a ball
of cloth and very fine tripoli. The varnished
silk thus made is very black, exceedingly pli-
able, and has a fine polish. It may be rumpled
a thousand ways without retaining any fold, or
even the mark of one. It is light, and therefore
proper for coverings to hats, and for making
cloaks and caps so useful to travelers in wet
weather.

SIGNATURES, To take Far-similar of:—
VVrite your name on a piece of paper, and while
the ink is wet sprinkle over it some finelyopow-
dered gum arabic, then make a rim round it and

our on it some fusible alloy, in a liquid state.

mpressions may be taken from the plates formed
in this way, by means of printing-ink and the
oopperplate-press.

SIIIPS, T o Velztz'late.—v-Air-pipes are used
for drawing foul air out of ships, or other close
places, by means of fire. One extremity is
placed in a hole in the side of a furnace, (closed
in every part excepting the outlet for the smoke;)
the other in the place which it is designed to
purify. The rarefaction produced by the fire
causes a currmt of air to be determined to it,
and the only means by which the air can arrive
at the fire leing through the pipe, 3. quick cir-
culation, in the place where the extremity of
tire piipe may be situated, is consequently pro-

uce .

SHEILA c, To Bleak—The bleaching oil

 

505

shellac is generally effected on a large scale by
chlorine or some of its compounds, or by sul-
phuric acid; the bleached article costs more than
twice as much as the unbleached. The‘bleached
shellac is frequently dissolved in spirits of wine
for use as a varnish by cabinet makers. This
varnish is apt to stain any inlaid metallic orna-
ment upon the furniture, or any metal attached
to it, in consequence of the varnish retaining a
small proportion of the bleaching compound in
solution. Another process of bleaching may be
adopted which renders the varnish free from this
objection, and very much reduces the cost of the
bleached shellac or seed lac. This process con-
sists in the use of animal charcoal as a bleaching
powder. It is prepared in the following man-
ner:—Any quantity of yellow shellac, previously
broken in small pieces, is conveyed into a flask,
alcohol of 0.83 sp. gr. poured upon it, and the
whole heated on the hob, or, in the summer, in
the sun, until the shellac is dissolved; upon this
so much coarsely powdered animal charcoal is
added to the solution that the whole forms a thin
paste; the flask is closed, not quite air tight, and
left so for some time, exposed to the sun; and
in eight to fourteen days a small sample is filter-
ed, sufi’icient to ascertain whether it has acquired
a light yellowish brown color, and whether it
yields a clear, pure polish on light colored
woods. If this be the case, it is filtered through
coarse blotting paper, for which purpose it is
best to employ a tin funnel with double sides,
similar to those employed in filtering spirituous
solutions of soaps, opodeldoc, etc. The portion
which first passes through the filter may be pre-
served separately, and used as a ground or first
polish. Then some more spirit is poured over
the charcoal upon the filter, and the solution
used as a last coating. The solution of shellac
purified by animal charcoal has a brown yellow
color, but it is perfectly clear and transparent ;
when diluted with alcohol, the color is so slight
that it may be used in this state for polishing
perfectly white wood, such as maple, pine, etc.,
without the wood acquiring the least tint of
yellow.

SLA TES, Artificial. —— Elastic slates have
come to be,almost an article of necessity on ac-
count of being light, and as easily carried in the
pocket as a memorandum book, having the ad-
vantage over, the other kind in the fact that the
notes and writing can be easily effaced, leaving
the surface clean and ready for further use. The
following is the composition from which they
are made: Sand in very fine powder, 82 parts ;
lampblack, 8 parts ; boiled linseed or cottonseed
oil, Io parts. This mixture is to be thoroughly
mixed together and spirits of turpentine added
in order that the kind of paint thus obtained
may be applied on a thin sheet of pasteboard.
As soon as the first coat is dry another coat is
applied, and even a third application is some-
times required. The last coat is smoothed by
being rubbed with a piece of cotton waste, satu-
rated with spirits of turpentine.

The artificial slates thus obtained are light,
easily transported, not liable to be broken, and
a slate pencil is used to write upon them.

SrWALL-POX, Dar/mast in T matings—It is
stated that if a patient, in the beginning of the
attack, be put in a room from which absolutely
all light is excluded save that of a candle, the
effect is to arrest the disease in the papular or

506

DICTIONARY OF EVERY DA Y—WANTS.

 

.vesicular stage; it never becomes purulent, and
the skin between the vesicles is never inflamed
or swollen; the liquor sanguinis is prevented
from becoming pus; the large scabs of matter
never form over the face; there is no intense
pain, and only trifling itching, and the smell is
either very slight or altogether wanting.

SOAP-[1’ UBBLES, Lalge and Long-Lari-
z'ng. ——For the production of unusually large
soap-bubbles that will last for hours, and exhibit
splendidly the beautiful colors of the rainbow, a
fluid may be employed that can easily be pre-
pared in the following way: Fine shavings of
palm-oil soap are shaken in a large bottle with
distilled water, until a concentrated solution of
the soap is obtained; this is filtered through
gray filtering paper, and mixed then with about
one-third of pure glycerine. The fluid is to be
shaken up before use. By means of a small
glass funnel, of two inches diameter, connected
with a tube of India rubber, soap-bubbles may
be prepared with this fluid that will vie in the
beauty of the display of color with the rainbow
itself, and which may be kept for a long while
by putting them carefully upon an iron ring
which is slightly rusty and thoroughly wet with
the soap solution. Bubbles of one foot and more
in diameter will keep from five to ten minutes;
those of two to three inches in diameter, for
hours—often for ten to twelve.

SO UP TABLE TS, Prussian—Take eleven
parts by weight of good suet, melt it in an iron
pan, and make it very hot, so as to become

rown; add, while keeping the fat stirred, eight-
een parts of rye meal, and continue heating and
stirring so as to make the mass brown; add
then four parts of dried salt and two parts of
coarsely pulverized caraway seed. The mixture
is then poured into tin pans somewhat like those
used for making chocolate into cakes. The cakes
have the appearance of chocolate, and are chiefly
intended for the use of soldiers while in the field.
A quantity of about one ounce of this prepara-
tion is sufficient to yield, when boiled with some
water, a ration of good soup, and in case of need
the cakes, being agreeable to the taste, may be
eaten raw.

SPONGE PAPER—For the fabrication of
an article called sponge paper, lately patented
in France, evenly and finely divided sponge is
added to ordinary paper pulp, and this is worked
as in the common paper making apparatus, into
sheets of different thicknesses. It is said to have
all the peculiarities of sponge, absorbing water
readily, and remaining moist a long time. It
has been used as dressing for wounds with con-
siderable advantage and is capable of several
important technical applications.

S TAMMERING, T 0 Cum—No stammer-
ing person ever found any difficulty in singing.
The reason of this is that by observing the
measure of the music—by keeping time-—the or-
gans of speech are kept in such position that
enunciation is easy. Apply the same rule to
reading or speech, and t e same result Will fol-
low. Let the stammerer take a sentence, say
this one—‘Leander swam the Hellespont’-—and
pronounce it by syllables, scan it, keeping time
with his finger if necessary, letting each syllable
occupy the same time, thus, Le—an—der—swam
—the——Hel—-les—pont, and he will not stam-
mer. Let him pronounce slowly at first, then
faster, but still keeping time, keeping time With

 

words instead of syllables, and he will be sur-
prised to find that, by very little practice, he will
read without stammering, and nearly as rapidly
as persons ordinarily talk or read. Then prac-
tice this in reading and conversation until the
habit is broken up. Perseverance and atten-
tion is all that is necessary to perform a perfect
cure.

S T ARCH from Froxlm’ Potatoer.—Potatoes
much frosted will make very good starch, though
it is a shade darker in color. All coarse clothes
requiring to be stiffened, where whiteness is no
object, may be done with starch made from po-
tatoes greatly penetrated with frost. The best
method of making potatoes into starch is to grate
them down into water, then to take out all the
refuse with the hand, and next to strain the
whole of the water in which the potatoes have
been grated through a thin cloth, rather coarse,
or fine sieve, and afterwards frequently putting
on and pouring off water until it comes clear
from the starch, which is always allowed to set-
tle or fall to the bottom of the vessel in which
the operation is performed. An experiment was
tried with a few potatoes that were put out to
frost. They were grated down and made into
starch powder. The produce of the fresh potato
weighed 876 grains, while that of the frosted
was only 412, being less than half the quantity.

The refuse of the potato, when taken from the
sieve, possesses the property of cleansing woolen
cloths without hurting their colors, and the wa-
ter decanted from the starch powder is excellent
for cleansing silks without the smallest injury to
their color. In making hair-powder it has long
been used, and is therefore well known.

STEAM-ENGINES, To Take Care of'wfien
Newlyvret—After a newly-set steam-boiler has
been fitted out with all the requisite parts, it is
to be filled with water one or two inches above
the normal level. There being no pressure of
steam, the fact that the boiler is filled to the
desired height, can only be ascertained by blow-
ing air through the open gauge-cocks. From the
bubbling of the air, ascending through the water,
it is easily ascertained whether there is suflicient
water or not. The float on the glass gauge in-
dicates the water-level directly, but the former is
often less accurate on account of the coldness of
the stuffing-box. If the man-hole is still open,
the level may more readily be ascertained by
means of a rod. The charging generally takes
place by means of an efficient hand-pump, since
the cases are exceptional where there is a higher
situated reservoir, from which the boiler ma be
fed. This convenience is only met with w ere
steam-engines are situated near water-wheels,
(whether for the increase of force, or for the
substitution of water-power during repairs, etc.,)
or where there is an upper pond, or the estab-
lishments are near a steep mountain, abounding
in rivulets; or in iron-works, which, for the
hoisting of the furnace-charges, require high
reservoirs and hydraulic lifts. In order to fill
the boiler, a canvas hose is attached to the dis—
charging-mouth of a hand-pump or to the con-
duction-pipes, and introduced into the man-hole.
If there are several boilers for only one machine,
and in case one of them has been cleaned as reserve
boiler, which it is desired shall now be rapidly
filled, it is necessary to fasten a mouthpiece to
the delivery- ipe of the cold pump, so that a hose
can be attac ed. It is less expensive to use

MISCELLANEOUS.

507

 

hose than solid pipes; they are more simple and
less easily damaged. After being used, they
must be well dried, and not kept in moist places.
In many establishments, as in cotton-mills, iron-
works, and calico printing-works, the pumps are
so constructed that they can also be employed as
fire-engines.

l After the charging of the boiler, the fire is
made, for which purpose brushwood and shav-
ings are best. The fire is regulated by means of
a damper or the fire-doorpin such a manner that
during the first day the temperature of the water
will not attain the boiling-point. It is advisable
to keep the door open, since the drying of the
masonry will be accelerated by the current of
entering air. But, as the drying proceeds, the
opening must be more and more closed, and
finally it ought to be kept shut, except during
the poking of the fire.

If the walling is very moist, steam-clouds are
seen issuing from the chimney. The author of
this was once compelled to put up a boiler in
very cold weather, and with frozen stones. Yet,
by constructing proper flues in the brick-work,
and by firing with care, steam could be produced
on the evening of the second day. The brick-
work was dry, without having been injured in
the least. '

On the second day the fire was increased, the
door was kept nearly closed, the damper open a
little more. With new boilers and chimneys, it
often happens that at first there is no draught,
especially where it is carried long distances
around the boiler. This is explained by the fact
that the hot air meets too great a resistance from
lthe dense, cold air in the draught-holes and
lchimney. This evil can be remedied by kindling
.a straw fire at the foot of the chimney. In set-
ting a new boiler, the cleaning-hole of the
chimney should, therefore, be left open. But if
once the walling is warmed through, the firing
may be interrupted for several days, and even
for a longer time, without any appreciable evil
effects, since bricks retain their heat for a long
while. As soon as the least current is created,
the fire at once becomes active, the flame
attains direction, and having once reached the
chimney, its activity is still more increased.

Although the greatest attention must be paid
to the firing, all the parts connected with the
generation of steam ought not on that account to
be neglected. It is, for instance, well to examine
whether the float plays well after the box has
become hot, and the engineer should satisfy
himself of the right position and the reliability of
its movements. If the beam on the side of the
float-stone is pressed down, the latter should
immediately sink into the water; but if relieved
by the pressure, it should be lifted by the counter-
weight into the position corresponding to the
existent water-level. The points to which most
attention must be paid are the steel edges upon
which the beam turns, and the stuffing-box. The
edges ought not to be pressed too much into the
nut of the lever. When steam is generating, the
efficiency and mobility of the gauge-cocks are to
be tried. In high-pressure boilers, the cock of
the manometer must be opened, while in low-

ressure boilers, the air-valve is to be inspected.

he safety-valves must also be examined, opened,
and lifted from their seats and turned, in order
to prevent their sticking by the adhesion of the
oil. The author has seen valves thus stuck

 

suddenly thrown up by the steam, causing de-
rangements and fractures. The valves with a
directly applied weight play less readily; if one
corresponds, for instance, to a pressure of four
atmospheres, by waiting until the steam has
reached a tension of two or three atmospheres,
it may easily be lifted.

Moreover, in low-pressure boilers, inspection
should be made of the induction-pipe before the
tension has attained the desired height; the fire~
man must examine whether the float is movable,
and whether the feeding-pipe is in order; he
must inspect the manometer, withdrawing the
float from the mercury, and letting it slide again
into it. It will now be seen where there are
untight joints and screws. Although the former
may have been drawn on very tight, they gene-
rally get loose again by getting warm, so that
theyhave to be screwed on anew. If the leaks are
so great that they can not be done away with in
this manner, and by driving in small wooden
wedges which have been put in putty, the spots
must be well marked, so that the evil maybe
remedied at the first stand-still. Steam should
be turned on slowly; for if allowed to pass
suddenly into the pipes, the thereby condensing
water has a tendency to open the joints, the
water often running from them.

The fire must be regulated according to the
generation of steam, the tension of which, de~
pendent on the speed of the machine, is indicated
by the manometer. To use as little fuel as
possible is here the first principle. Whether
wood, peat, coal, coke, or brown coal are to be
burned should be decided upon beforehand, so
that the boiler as well as the walling may be cons
structed accordingly. It remains then only to
decide upon the different varieties of these com-
bustibles, as with regard to hard coal between
baking coal, open and close burning coal and
anthracite. In order to try a kind of fuel, it
ought to be used for at least four or six days;
other kinds must be employed for the same
quantity of steam under like conditions, (cleaned
flues, etc.) When different kinds of fuel admit
of being used together, the mixtures should be
tried in various proportions. From the mechan-
ical effect produced, it may at once be determined
which kind of fuel is best adapted for permanent
use.

When several sorts of hard coals are to be had,
those mixtures are to be tried, which in most
cases range cheaper than the pure coals. In
running a steam-engine of twenty-two horse-
power, we have daily saved one thaler, (nearly
70 cents gold,) when, instead of using either
baking or cherry coal alone, we'burned amixture
of equal parts of each.

STONE, Artificial.— Wilma—Alum, I lb. ;
water, I gal. Dissolve, then steep in this li uor
calcined gypsum, % cwt. Next dry for eight
days in the open air, and calcine at a dull, red
heat; grind and sift and form into a paste with
water; when hard apply a thin layer of the above
paste over the surface with a brush ; when quite
hard, polish with pumice, etc., in the usual way.
—Cream Colon—Alum, I pound; copperas, %
pound; water, 9 pints. Dissolve, and proceed
as before.

STONE FACADES, To Clean. — It has
been ascertained that the jet of water thrown
from a steam fire-engine has the power of re‘
moving the discoloration produced by the smoke,

508

without injuring the face of the stone. The work
is done from the ground, the force of the stream
thrown by the steam fire-engine being sufficient
to effect the necessary cleansing.

STONE WARE (Englz'r/L), To Manufacture.
—Tobacco-pipe clay from Dorsetshire is beaten
much in water; by this process the finer parts
of the clay remain suspended in the water, while
the coarser sand and other impurities fall to the
bottom. The thick liquid, consisting of water
and the finer parts of clay, is further purified by
passing it through hair and lawn sieves of differ-
ent degrees of fineness. After this the liquor is
mixed (in various proportions for various ware)
with another liquid of the same density, and
consisting of flints calcined, ground and sus-
pended in water. The mixture is then dried in
a kiln, and being afterwards beaten to a proper
temper, it becomes fit for being formed at the
wheel into dishes, plates, bowls, etc. When
this ware is to be put into the furnace to be
baked, the several pieces of it are placed in the

cases made of clay, called seggars, which are‘

piled one upon another, in the dome of the fur-
nace ; a fire is then lighted, when the ware is
brought to a proper temper, which happens in
about 48 hours, it is glazed by common salt.
The salt is thrown into the furnace through holes
in the upper part of it, by the heat of which it is
instantly converted into a thick vapor, which,
circulating through the furnace, enters the seg-
gar through holes made in its side (the top being
covered to prevent the salt from falling on the
ware), and attaching itself to the surface of the
ware, it forms that vitreous coat upon the surface
which is called its glaze.

SUGAR REFINLVG. —A German paper
mentions a new process of refining sugar in
which the saccharine juice, after being clarified
in the usual way by means of lime and carbonic
acid, is precipitated at boiling temperature with
caustic baryta (60 parts of the latter for every
100 of sugar), the precipitatesuspended in water
and decomposed with carbonic acid. A pure
solution of sugar is obtained, which only requires
to be evaporated.

S T 0 VES, To Mend Crack: fen—Take equal
parts of wood ashes and common salt, and mix
them to a proper consistence with water; with
this fill the cracks.

S T 0 VES, T 0 Keep from Rurt.— Kerosene
applied with a cloth to stoves will keep them
from rusting during the summer. It is also an
excellent material to apply to all iron utensils
used about a farm.

S ULPH UR, [Wendie—By adding to pure
sulphur a four hundredth part ‘of chlorine or
iodine it becomes very soft, so that it may be
spread in thin leaves as flexible as leaves of wax.

SULPHUROUS ACID, To Make—To 12
oz. of sulphuric acid, in a glass retort, add 2 oz.
of sulphur and apply a gentle heat. This is a
cheap and easy process.

S ULPHURE TE D HYDROGEN—Pour
dilute sulphuric acid on sulphuret of iron. This
is made by applying a roll of sulphur to a bar of
iron heated white hot, or by heating in a crucible
a mixture of 2 parts, by weight, of iron filings
and I of flowers of sulphur.

SWIMMING, Artqfl—It has been observed
that men are drowned by raising their arms
above water, the unbuoyed weight of which de.
presses the head; all other animals have neither

 

DICTIONAR Y OF E VER Y—DA Y WANTS.

motion nor ability to act in a similar manner,
and therefore swim naturally. When a man
therefore falls into deep'water, he will rise to
the surface and continue there if he does not
elevate his hands. If he move his hands under
the water in any manner he pleases his head will
rise so high as to allow him liberty to breathe,
and if he move his legs as in the act of walking
(or rather of walking upstairs). his shoulders
will rise above the water, so that he may use
less exertion with his' hands, or apply them to
other purposes. These plain directions are re-
commended to the attention of those who have
not learned to swim in their youth, and they will,
if attended to, be found highly advantageous in
preserving life.

If a person falls into the water or gets out of
his depth and cannot swim, and if he wishes to
drown himself, let him kick and splash as vio-
lently as possible, and he will soon sink.‘ On
the contrary, if impressed with the idea that he
is lighter than the water, he avoids all violent
action and calmly but steadily strives to refrain
from drawing his breath while under the water,
and keeps his head raised as much as possible,
and gently but constantly moves his hands and
feet in a proper direction, there will be a great
probability of his keeping afloat until some aid
arrives.

S YR UP (3f l/ze Phosp/zate of Irma—Take of
phosphate of iron 96 grs.; water 9 fl. drs.; sy-
rupy phosphoric acid (Sp. gr. 1.5) 7 fl. drs.;
syrup 10 fl. oz. Rub the phosphate of iron with
the water in a glass mortar, add the phosphoric
acid, and filter the mixture into the syrup.

S YRUP of Pkwy/late (31’ Iron and Lime.—
Take of phosphate of iron 96 grs.; phosphate of
lime x92 grs.; water 8 fl. drs.; syrupy phos-
phoric acid 8 fl. drs.; syrup [0 fl. oz. ix
the powders with the water in a glass mortar,
add the acid, and filter into the syrup. Each
fluid drachm contains I grain iron, 2 gr. lime,
and equivalent to 30 minims dilute phosphoric
acid.

The phosphate of lime is made by precipita-
tion from solutions of chloride of calcium and
phosphate of soda, dried at 100° F., and used
whilst fresh. .That made from bone-ash is much
less soluble.

S YR UP qf Phorplzale qffron and Quim'ne.———
Take of phosphate of iron [92 grs.; phosphate
of quinia 96'grs.; water 7 fl. drs.; siyrupy
phosphoric acid 9 fl. drs.; syrup Io . oz.
Rub the powders with water, add the acid, and
filter into syrup; Each fluid drachm contains
2 gr. iron and I gr. quinine.

S Ylt’ UP of P/zorplzate ofManganere.—-—Take
of phosphate of manganese 96 grs.; water 9 fl.
drs.; syrupy phosphoric acid 7fl. drs.; syrup
IO fl. oz. To be made as last. Strength, I gr.
manganese salt and 25 minims of acid to fluid
drachm.

TANNING in VA C UO.—This invention
consists in an improved mode of operation by
means of an oscillating rack in an air tight tan-
ning box having a pump for Withdrawing the
air, a vat for. supplying the liquid on the top by
opening a valve, and a liquid distributing ap-
paratus inside. The box is also provrded with
openings, closed air tight by glass, for_watching
the progress, and a vacuum gauge for indicating
the vacuum.

The air being pumped out of the box opens

MISCELLANEO US.

the pores of the skins, whereby they are pre-
ared to be most thoroughly. saturated with the
iquid, which, being let in upon the hides in this
condition in a distributed way, is, together with
the agitation of the hides in the liquid by the
oscillating frame, calculated to greatly accelerate
the work. This the inventor claims to have de-
monstrated by practical tests, in which sheep
skins were completely tanned in six hours ; calf
skins in twenty-four hours; cow hides in thirty-
six, and ox hides in sixty hours. Moreover, the
nick saturation of the hides with the liquid, is
c aimed to make the leather more even in quality
inside and out. The quality is also improved;
‘for the fibers on the outside are not damaged by
the too great action of the tanning liquid, as in
the old and slow process, in which it is neces-
sary to expose the outside too long in order that
the liquid may penetrate to the interior.
TAR, Syrup of.—Tar (strained) I ounce
troy); pulverized sugar (refined) 12 ounces
troy); carbonate of magnesia 3 ounces (troy);
rubbed to powder on a sieve. Alcohol 2 fl.
ounces; water a sufficient quantity. Mix the

alcohol with six fl. ounces of water, rub the tar
' in a mortar of suflicient capacity with one ounce
of the sugar, and then with the carbonate of
magnesia, gradually added, until the whole is
reduced to a uniform, pulverulent mixture. To
this gradually add with constant trituration,
which should be continued for fifteen or twenty
minutes, four fl. ounces of the mixture of alcohol
and water; then strain with strong expression.
Return the residue to the mortar, and again tritu-
rate, first with one ounce of the sugar. 'and then
with the remaining four fl. ounces of the mixture
of alcohol and water, gradually added, as before;
finally strain and strongly express, and then re-
duce the dregs by trituration to a smooth and
uniform condition, and pack firmly in a glass
funnel prepared for percolation, and adjusted to
the neck of a graduated bottle containing the re-
mainder of the sugar, and pour upon this the ex-

ressed liquid; and when it has all disappeared
fi‘om the surface, continue the percolation with
water until the whole measures one pint. Agi-
tate occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved,
and strain if necessary. Dose from a dessert to
a tablespoonful.

The strained tar, such as is usually sold in
gallon cans, answers well for this purpose, but
when it is not at hand the crude tar may be dis-
solved in a small quantity of ether and strained,
and the ether allowed to evaporate spontaneous-l y.

TEST PAPER, New—Professor Bottger
announces the discovery of a new re-agent, which,
he asserts, is highly sensitive to the alkalies. It
is a coloring extract of the calm: vers/zafllz’i, and is
produced by digestion, for 24 hours, in pure
alcohol, to which a few drops of sulphuric acid
have been added. The hue is a brilliant red,
which turns green on contact with any alkali. It.
is not affected by carbonic acid, and will detect
the slightest trace of ammonia in illuminating
gas, if moistened and placed against an open jet.
The presence of the minutest quantity of a car-
bonate of any of the alkalies is detected by it.

TEETH, Cemmtsfwt—I. Mix 12 parts of
dry phosphoric acid with 13 parts of pure and
pulverized quicklime. It becomes moist in mix-
mg, in which state it is introduced into the
cavity of the tooth, where it quickly becomes
hard—2. Digest 9 parts of powdered mastic

 

509

with 4 parts of ether, and add enough powdered
alum to form a stiff paste.—3. Gutta-percha,
softened by heat, is recommended. Dr. Rollfs
advises melting a piece of caoutchouc at the end
of a wire, and introducing it while warm—4.
(Aletallz'cJ—Amalgams for the teeth are made
with gold or silver, and quicksilver, the excess
of the latter being squeezed out, and the stiff
amalgam used warm. Inferior kinds are made
with quicksilver and tin, or zinc. Apopular
nostrum of this kind consists of 40 grains of
qlpicksilver and 20 of fine zinc filings, mixed at
t e time of using. The following is said to be
the most lastingand least objectionable amalgam:
Melt 2 parts of tin with I of cadmium, run it into
an ingot, and reduce it to filings. Form these
into a fluid amalgam with mercury, and squeeze
out the excess of mercury through leather.
Work up the solid residue in the hand, and press
it into the tooth. Another cement consists of
about 73 parts of silver, 21 of tin, and 6 of zinc,
amalgamated with quicksilver.

T OBA CC 0, To [thwart—This is done by
means of a mixture of one part each of lemon
peel, orange peel, figs, coriander seed, and sassa-
fras; one half part each of elderflowers, elder-
berries, and cinnamon; two parts of saltpeter,
three of salt, and four of sugar. This mixture
must be digested in fifty parts of water, and,
before applying it, flavored with an alcoholic
solution of gum benzoes, mastic, and myrrh.
It is said that this decoction gives a flavor to
common leaves resemblingclosely the Porto Rico;
but to this end the leaves must be well dried,
about a year old, well permeated with the pre-
paration, kept in a pile for eight days, turned
daily, and finally dried.

T 0R T OISE SHELL, T o Indium—In order
to do this well, your foundation or ground work
must be erfectly smooth and white, or nearly
so; you t en gild it with silver leaf with slow
size, so as to have it perfectly smooth, with no
ragged edges, cleaning the loose leaf off. Then
grind Cologne earth very fine, and mix it with
gum water and common size; and with this,
having added more gum water than it was
ground with, spot or cloud the ground work,
having a fine shell to imitate; and when this is
done, you will perceive several reds, lighter and
darker, appear on the edges of the black, and
many times lie in streaks on the transparent
part of the shell. To imitate this finely, grind
:anguz'r drawm'r with gum water, and with a
fine pencil draw those warm reds, flushing it in
about the dark places more thickly; but fainter
and fainter and thinner, with less color towards
the lighter parts, so sweetening it that it may in
a manner lose the red, being sunk in the silver
or more transparent parts. When it is dry, give
it a coat of varnish, let it stand a few days, then
rub it down with pumice stone and water. Then
grind gamboge very fine, and mix with varnish,
giving of this as many coats as will cause the
silver to have a golden color, then finish with a
clean coat of varnish. .

TOYS, Vamz’r/L fbr.—-Copal, 7 parts; mastic,
I part; Venice turpentine, % part; strongest
alcohol, 11 parts. Dissolve the copal first, with
the aid of a little camphor, then add the mastic,
etc., and thin with alcohol as required.

T RA CIN GS, T 0 Photograph rail/zortfa Cam-
arm—La out several thicknesses of cloth, on a
smooth rawing board, on top of which place a

5m

DICTIONARY 0F EVERKDA Y WANTS.

 

sheet of sensitized paper, superimpose the same
with the drawing, right side up, and press the
whole down perfectly . smooth with a piece of
glass which is to be kept in place by clothes pins
and weights, and expose it under the skylight
until the edges of the paper show a suffic1entl
dark impression, when it is to be removed, tone ,
and fixed. In this manner an exact copy of a
drawing can be made, the only difference, as a
matter of course, will be, the lines will be white
and the body of the paper dark, which is of no
disadvantage whatever.

TREES, A verage Growth ofi—Three or four
years ago the Illinois Horticultural Society
appointed a committee to pre are areport on the
cultivation and growth of orest trees. The
committee concluded an able report by saying:
As the results of our observations and from the
testimony of reliable men, we regard the following
as about the average growth in twelve ’ears, of
the leading desirable varieties, when p anted in
belts or groves and cultivated as directed :—White

Maple, I foot in diameter and 30 feet high.‘

Ash-leaf Maple, I foot in diameter and 20 feet
high. White Willow, 11/; feet in diameter and
40 feet high. Yellow Willow, I% feet in dia-
meter and 35 feet high. Lombardy Poplar, 10
inches in diameter and 40 feet high. Blue and
White Ash, 10 inches in diameter and 20 feet
high. Chestnut, Ioinches in diameter and 20 feet
high. Black Walnut and Butternut, 10 inches
in diameter and 20 feet high. Elm, 10 inches
in diameter and 20 feet high. Birch, (varieties),
10 inches in diameter and 25 feet high. Larch,
8 inches in diameter and 24 feet high. As before
intimated, the different varieties of evergreens
will make an average growth of eighteen to
twenty inches in hight annually.

From these and other data which the intelli-
gent farmer can collect, he may readily approxi-
mate estimate of the cost of fence posts, rails,
fire-wood, hewing timber, lumber, etc.

TUBA R 00 T.—The roots of a plant known
in Borneo by the name tuba or tooba are much
valued in that country for destroying vermin on
plants and animals. They are thrown into
water and allowed to stand a short time, after
which the animals or plants are washed with the
water. It is said that the infusion is very deadly
to the vermin, but innocuous to the plant and
animals. The roots are used whilst fresh, and
are believed to lose their properties in drying.
They are also used constantly for poisoning fish
and pools. The plant is one of the Leguminosae.

URINE, Incontinmre of.—The continued
use of tincture of iodine (one to six drops a day)
is said to be a permanent cure.

VA RNISH, Gram—There is a most beauti-
ful transparent green varnish employed to give
a fine glittering color to gilt or other decorated
works. As the preparation of this varnish is
very little known, an account of it may in all
probability prove of interest to many of our
readers. The process is as follows: Grind a
small quantity of a peculiar pigment, called
“Chinese blue,” along with about double the
quantity of finely powdered chromate. of potash,
and a sufficient quantity of copal varnish thinned
with turpentine. The mixture requires the most
elaborate grinding or incorporating of its ingre-
dients, otherwise it will not be transparent, and
therefore useless for the urpose for which it is
intended. The “tone” ofpthe color may be vari-

 

ed by an alteration in the pro ortion of the ins
gredients; a preponderance o chromate of pot.
ash causes a yellowish shade in the green, as
might have been expected, and vice warm with
the blue under the same circumstances. This
colored varnish will produce a very striking ef-
fect in japanned goods, paper-hangings, etc.,
and can be made at a very cheap rate.

VA RNISHIN G qf Paper.—Colored designs
would be more simply and satisfactorily var-
nished by first giving a coat of good gum-arabic
and then of varnish of about equal parts of tur-
pentine and Canada balsam. Colors mixed with
gum may be used over Indian ink, even on tra-
cing—cloth, without smearing. I may add that
for maps or lithographs I found that good white
starch (two coats or more) answered better, at
less cost than the common isinglass recommen-
ded in receipt-books, followed by the above var-
nish. A lithographed picture well done with
thick varnish looks almost as if glazed, or, in
other cases (with borders cut off), like an oil-
painting.

VA RNISH fir Prints, tin—This is made
by eight parts of gelatine glue being mixed with
one part alum, and half part Marseilles soap, in
boiling water. The glue being first well dissolved,
the alum and soap are added; all is then well
boiled, and afterwards strained and filtered.
This varnish will protect the objects from damp,
and is erfectly water- roof.

VA (N151! for Via ins, eta—Rectified spirits
of wine, % gal.; add 6 oz. gum sandarac, 3 oz.
gum mastic, and % pt. turpentine-varnish; put
the above in a tin can by the stove, frequently
shaking till well dissolved; strain, and keep for
use. If you find it harder than you wish, thin
with more turpentine-varnish.

VARZVISH for Slicers—It is a bad plan to
grease the upper leather of shoes for the purpose
of keeping them soft; it rots the leather, and
admits dampness more readily. It is better to
make a varnish thus: Put half a pound of gum
shellac broken up in small pieces, in a quart
bottle or jug; cover it with alcohol, cork it tight,
and put it on a shelf in a warm place; shake it
well several times a day, then add a piece of
gum camphor as large as a hen’s egg; shake it
well, and in a few hours shake it again, and add
one ounce of lamp-black; if the alcohol is good,
it will be dissolved in. three days; then shake
and use. If it gets too thick, add alcohol—pour
out two or three teaspoonfuls in a saucer, and
apply it with a small paint brush. If the mate-
rials are all good, it will dry in about five min-
utes, and will be removed only by wearing it off,
givinga gloss almost equal to patent leather.
The advantage of this preparation above others
is, it does not strike into the leather and make
it hard, but remains on the surface, and yet ex-
cludes the water almost perfectly. This same
preparation is admirable for harness, and this
does not soil when touched, as lamp-black pro-
portions do.

VARNISHING WALNUTFURNITURE.
—In dressing over old furniture, the first thing
to be done is to wash it over with lime or soda
water, to remove all effects of grease from sweaty
hands which will prevent varnish from flowing
freely or hardening well. If the work requires
refilling, rye flour, wheat flour, corn starch, or
Paris white, ground fine in oil and turpentine,
will do; but one or two coats of shellac should

MISCELLANEOUS.

5n

 

be laid on and rubbed smooth before applying
the varnish. Work finished in oil, without var-
nish, should be filled with a harder substance
than starch. Some use white wax reduced in
turpentine ; but what is better is a compound of
equal parts, by weight, of whiting, plaster of
Paris, umice-stone, and litharge, to which may
be ad ed a little French yellow, asphaltum,
vandyke brown, and term a’z' sienna. Mix with
one part japan, two of boiled oil, and four of
turpentine. Grind fine in a mill. Lay the filling
on with a brush, rub it in well, let it set twenty
minutes, then rub off clean. Let it harden two
or three days, then rub smooth, and, if required,
repeat the rocess. When the filling is satis-
factory, finish with linseed oil, put on witha
brush; wipe off, and rub to a polish with fine
cotton; finish with a silk handkerchief, or any
fine fabric.

VErVEERING.——The softest woods should
be chosen for veneering upon—such as common
cedar or yellow pine; perhaps the best of all
for the purpose is “arrow board,” twelve foot
lengths of which can be had of erfectly straight
grain, and without a knot; 0 course no one
ever veneers over a knot. Hard wood can be
veneered, boxwood with ivory, for instance; but
wood that will warp and twist, such as nasty
cross grained mahogany, must be avoided.

The veneer, and the wood on which it is to be
laid, must both be carefull prepared, the former
by takin out all marks 0 the saw on both sides
with a. ne toothing plane, the latter with a
coarser toothing plane. If the veneer happen
to be broken in doing this, it may be repaired
at once with a bit of stiff paper glued upon it on
the upper side. The veneer should be cut rather
larger than the surface to be covered; if much
twisted, it may be damped and placed under a
board and weight over night. This saves much
trouble; but veneers are so cheap, about Id. a
foot, that it is not worth while taking much
trouble about refractory pieces. The wood to
be veneered must now be sized with thin glue ;
the ordinary glue pot will supply this by dipping
the brush first into the glue, then into the boil-
ing water in the outer vessel. The size must be
allowed to dry before the veneer is laid.

We will suppose now that the veneering pro-
cess is about to commence. The glue in good
condition, and boiling hot, the bench cleared, a
basin of hot water with the veneering hammer
and a sponge in it, a cloth or two, and every-
thing in such position that one will not interfere
with, or be in the way of another.

First, damp with hot water that side of the
veneer which is not to be glued, then glue the
other side. Second. glue over as quick as pos-
sible the wood itself, previously toothed and
sized. Third, bring the veneer ra idly to it,
pressing it down with the outspread hands, and
taking care that the edges of the veneer overlap
a little all round. Fourth, grasp the veneering
hammer close to the pane (shaking off the hot
water from it) and the handle pointing away
from you; wriggle it about, pressing down stout-
ly, and squeezing the glue from the center out
at the edges. If it is a large piece of stuff which
is to be veneered, the assistance of a hot flat
iron from the kitchen will be wanted to make
the glue liquid again after it has set; but don’t
let it dry the wood underneath it, or it will burn
the glue and scorch the veneer, and ruin the

 

work. Fifth, having got out all the glue possi-
ble, search the surface for blisters, which will
at once he betrayed by the sound they give when
tapped with the handle of the hammer; the hot
iron, (or the inner vessel of the glue pot itself,
which often answers the purpose) must be ap-
plied, and the process with the hammer re-
peated.

When the hammer is not in the hand, it should
be in the hot water.

The whole may now be sponged over with hot
water, and wiped as dry as can be. And observe
throughout the above process, never have any
slop and wet about the work that you can avoid.
Whenever you use the sponge, squeeze it well
first. Damp and heat are wanted, not wet and
heat. It is a good thing to have the sponge in
the left hand nearly all the time, ready to take
up any moisture or squeezed out glue from the
front of the hammer.

So much for laying veneers with the hammer,
which though a valuable tool for the amateur, is
not much used in the best cabinet maker’s shops;
cauls are adopted instead. They are made of
wood the shape and size of the surface to be
veneered, or, better still, of rolled zinc plate, and
being made very hot before a good blaze of
shavings, they are clamped down on the work
when the veneer is got into its place; they must
be previously soaped, to revent them sticking
to the veneer. The who e is then left to dry
together. The hammer is quite sufficient for
most amateurs. I have laid veneers with it 5ft.
long by 18in. wide, without assistance, and with-
out leaving a blister. Cauls, however, are very
necessary if a double curve has to be veneered,
or a concave surface; they need not be used for
a simple convex surface. By wetting well one
side of the veneer it will curl up, and can easily
be laid on such a surface; but it will be well to
bind the whole round with some soft string to
assist it in keeping down while drying.

VENEERED WORK: To Polish—No at.
tempt at scraping, sandpapering, or polishing
veneered work must be made till the glue is
perfectly dry and hard. It should be left twenty-
four hours at least, in awarm room, and is better
still if left two or three times as long.

The processes for French polishing vary some-
what, according to the nature of the wood. For
common work in deal, the wood may be well
sized first, then papered with fine glass paper,
and polished.

For mahogany, walnut, and similar porous
woods, the pores must be filled by rubbing in, on
a roller of old carpet, a mixture of Russian tallow
(that is, tallow free from salt) and plaster of
Paris, well amalgamated, before the fire in cold
weather. Russian tallow may be had, at most
oil shops, generally pure enough; but if the
presence of salt be suspected, refine it by boiling
it in lenty of water, stirring it well and skim-
ming it. Set it by to cool, and use the cake of
tallow which will be at the top.

The more this filling up process is persevered
in, the less will be the subsequent la or in pol-
ishing; quite a bright surface should be got up
by this alone. The mixture of tallow and plaster
ma be darkened with red lead for mahogany, or
wit other coloring matter according-to fancy.

This filling is not necessary for boxwood,
ebony, or other of the hard woods.

To polish a surface thus prepared, not being

512

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

hard wood, and not in the lathe, take a ball of
cotton wool saturated with methylated French
polish; cover it with a fold of linen cloth; on the
linen cover put, with the tip of the finger, a drop
or two of raw refined linseed oil (not “boiled
oil”); get on a good body of varnish by rubbing
always one way with circular strokes; be very
careful to go over all the ground each time you
work round the surface; and do not go over the
same spot twice before you have gone over all.
The longer this is done the better. Never mind
the smears, which, though they look queer, are
the very appearance you want at this stage.
Having got on a good body, leave your work
and take to another piece. It is good to leave
it, if convenient, even for a day or two. By the
way, shut all doors and windows before you
begin. You can’t do French polishing in a draft
or in a very cold room.

When you resume work, use a mixture of half
methylated French polish and half methylated
spirit, or less than half of the spirit when you
commence, and put now as little as possible on
the wool, covering with more than one fold of
fine linen or canibric. Very little oil as before
——only just enough to prevent the rubber from
sticking to the work; go over it lightly, with an
easy gentle touch, in circular strokes, all one
way. Never mind the smears. When it comes
to look something like a good result, which it
soon will, you may take out the smears by rub-
bing up and down with a mere trace of spirit on

'wool well covered with the linen, but avoid
going. over the same place twice, and be very
light and gentle, or you will remove your polish.
.Finally rub it well with a clean wash leather
(carefully folded, so as to leave no hard crease
which will scratch), or an old silk handkerchief,
breathing on the work occasionally.

Boxwood, ebony, cocus, etc., may be rapidly
polished in, the lathe. At first get a body of
polish on, and this can be done without using
any oil. The work must not be turned around
rapidly, but the pulley of the lathe moved slowly
by hand; then use your rubber with a drop of
oil, and finally, the polish thinned with spirit.

If either on flat or turned work you require a
very superior polish, you may remove nearl all
the first coat with fine glass paper, and put It on
again which will hot take long, the pores being
all filled. Remember that throughout the oil is
only used to prevent the rubber from sticking,
and it has to be got out afterwards with the
spirit; so never use more than necessary.

In the lathe, when you come to the wash
leathers, the work may be driven ragiidly. A bit
of ebony can be polished in 5 or minutes to
such a surface that small print can be easily read
in it as in a mirror. Don’t use your rubbers
when they get hard and dry, but, nevertheless,
stick to an old one as long as you can, and, if
you have to put them by, keep them in a tin box
tightly covered.

VENTILA TIOIV, Simple Mean: of. —A
piece of wood 'an inch or more in thickness,
three inches wide, and exactly as long as the
breadth of the window through which ventilation
is to be established, is to be prepared. Let the
sash be now raised, and let the slip of wood be
placed upon the side of the window; the sash is
then to be drawn down closely u on the slip of
wood. If the slip has been well tted—and the
fitting may be made more complete by adapting

 

it to the grooves in the sash and its frame, if any
exist-no draught will be experienced in consec
quence of the displacement of the sash at this
part. The effect of such an arrangement is,
however, to cause a separation between the bar?
of the sashes at the center. By this means a
perpendicular current of air will be projected in-
to the room between the glass in the upper antJ
lower sashes and their respective bars, or else
the current will pass outwards in 'the reverse
direction, in a manner by which all inconvenience
from draught will be avoided.

Supposing that two or more windows at oppo-
site sides ofa room are fitted in this manner, a
very satisfactory ventilation will be secured.
Owing to a difference in its equilibrium, the air
will rush in on one side, and rush out on the
other side of the apartment. If the slips of wood
are painted of the same color as the windows
themselves, they will attract little notice.

VENT/EIZLOQUISM.—A common mistake
is to suppose ventriloquism to be “throwing the
voice” into some place. This is of course im-
possible. Others, misled by the derivation of
the word, which comes from two Latin ones,
venter, the belly, and loquor, to speak, think it
means speaking from the stomach or with the
muscles in that region. Now the whole art of
ventriloquism consists in making sounds that
shall imitate those naturally and usually proceed-
ing from a designated place. The ventriloquist
speaks without moving his lips for the purpose
of deceiving the spectator, as the eye has always
much to do in leading the imagination. To speak
without moving the lips makes it necessary to
do it with the muscles of the throat, and hence
the whole mystery is thus to cultivate the ear so
as to know exactly what sound would proceed
from a certain locality, and then to train the
throat so that you can make them without mov-
ing the lips. There are many persons ventrilo-
quists without knowing it, and there are many
who find great difficulty in acquiring it because
they imagine it an intricate or mysterious art.
To become skillful of course requires practice,
and there are many sounds which cannot be imi-
tated by voice merely, such as the singing of
birds, the strident noise ofa saw, the whistling
of a plane, etc. Such and similar unmusical
sounds are imitated by means of the teeth, the
lips or the soft parts of the mouth. Thus the
noise of a saw is like that produced by hawk-
ing, only much prolonged, and modified by the
cheeks; singing of birds may be imitated by
whistling through the teeth. The foaming of
soda water by breathing with open lips into a
tumbler, etc.

WA G OA’S, To Creme—Few people fully
appreciate the importance of thoroughly lubri-
cating the axles, etc., of wagons and carriages,
and still fewer know what are the best materials
and the best methods of applying them. A well
made wheel will endure common wear from ten
to twenty-five years, if care is taken to use the
right kind and proper amount of grease; but il
this matter is not attended to, they will be used
up in five or six years. Lard should never be
used on a wagon, for it will penetrate the hub,
and work its way out around the tenons of the
spokes, and spoil the wheel. Tallow is the best
lubricator for wooden axle-trees, and caster-oil
for iron. Just grease enough should be applied
to the spindle of a wagon to give it a light coat-

MISCELLA NE 0 US.

M; this is better than more, for the surplus

.,t on will work out at the ends, and be forced
* y the shoulder-bands and nut-washers into the
hub around the outside of the boxes. To oil an
axle—tree, first wipe the spindle clean with a
cloth wet with spirits of turpentine, and then
apply afew drops of castor oil near the shoulders
and end. One teaspoonful is sufficient for the

whole.

WAGON HUBS, To Prevent t/ze Cracking
ofz'n Storming—Take a common “try pot,”
such as is used by Whalers, or a farmer’s large
boiling kettle; fit to it a wooden cover, to fasten
with small screw bolts or clamps to the rim to
be vapor tight. A piece of one inch gas pipe
screwed into the cover serves to convey the va-
por of the coal tar from this extemporized still
-to a large cask, which may be set upon one head,
as a receptacle for the hubs. The still pi e is
led to the bottom of the cask, which is then lled
with hubs, and a cover fitted over all, to be va-
por tight, with a small safety valve arrangement
to regulate the pressure. The kettle is then
filled with refuse matter from the gas works or
crude coal tar, the cover secured, a fire lighted
under the kettle, and shortly the lighter vapors
penetrate the mass of hubs at a temperature of
about two hundred to two hundred and twenty
degrees Fah. The hubs are effectually and grad-
ually heated, so that all the watery particles are
expelled from the wood in steam and replaced
by the light vapors of the hydrocarbon oil.
Subse uently the heavier oils are distilled over
and fill the pores of the wood. The process is
finished in about twelve hours, and you have a
hub that will stand anywhere short of a fire. A
few ex eriments will satisfy any one of the effi-
cacy 0 this treatment. One of the products of
this distillation is carbolic acid.the best known
antiseptic—and the hubs will be found strongly
impregnated with the peculiar smell of this well
known a cut.

WA GO/V T IRES, Ta Keep an t/ze Wine].—
Apractical mechanic suggests a method of so

utting tire; on wagons that they will not get
oose and require resetting. He says he ironed
a wagon some years ago for his own use; and,
before putting on the tires, he filled the felloes
with linseed oil, and the tires have worn out
and were never loose. His method is as fol-
lows : He used a long cast iron heater made for
the purpose; the oil is brought to a boiling heat,
the wheel is placed on a stick, so as to hang in
the oil, each felloe an hour. The timber should
be dry, as green timber will not take oil. Care
should be taken that the oil is not made hotter
than a boiling heat, or the timber will be burned.
Timber filled with oil is not susceptible of injury
by water, and is rendered much more durable
by this process.

WALKS (Gravel), To Make—The bottom
should be laid with lime-rubbish, large flint
stones, or any other hard matter, for eight or ten
inches, to keep weeds from growing through,
and over this the gravel is to be laid six or eight
inches thick. This should be lain rounding up
in the middle, by which means the larger stones
will run off to the sides, and may be raked away;
for the gravel should never be screened before it
is laid on. It is a common mistake to lay these
walks too round, which not only makes them
uneasy to walk upon, but takes off from their
apparent breadth. One inch in five feet is a

513

sufficient pro ortion for the rise in the middle;
so that a wal twenty feet wide should be four
inches higher at the middle, than at the edges,
and so in proportion. As soon as the gravel is
laid, it should be raked, and the large stones
thrown back again; then the whole should be
rolled both lengthwise and crosswise; and the
person who draws the roller should wear shoes
with flat heels that he may make no holes, be—
cause holes made in a new walk are not easily
remedied. The walks should always be rolled
three or four times after ver hard showers, from
which they will bind more rmly thanotherwise
they could ever be made to.

WA LK S, To Keep Weed: under era—Weeds
on walks may be kept under by watering the
gravel with the following solution: Dissolve two
pounds of blue vitriol in an old pan, and then
dilute it with six or seven gallons of water; apply
this through the fine nose of a watering pot, and
it will destroy every sign of vegetation.

WASHING ( C/zmzz'azl) Preparation—Take
a X of a pound of soap, a % of a pound of soda,
and a % of a pound of quicklime. Cut up the
soap, and dissolve it in I quart of boiling water;
pour I quart of boiling water over the soda, and
3 quarts of boiling water upon the quicklime.
The lime must be quick and fresh; ifit is good,
it will bubble up on pouring the hot water upon
it. Each must be prepared in separate vessels.
The lime must settle so as to leave the water on
the top perfectly clear; then strain it carefully
(not disturbing the settlings) into the washboiler
with the soda and soap ; let it scald long enough
to dissolve the soap; then add 6 gallons of soap
water. The clothes must be put in soak over
night, after rubbing soap upon the dirtiest parts
of them. After having the above in readiness,
wring out the clothes which have been put in
soak, put them on to boil, and let each rlot boil
half an hour; the same water will answer for the
whole washing. After boiling each lot half an
hour, drain them from the boiling water, put
them in a tub, and pour upon them two or three
pailfuls of clear, hot water; after this they will
want but very little rubbing; then rinse through
two waters, bluing the last. When dried, they
will be a beautiful white. After washing the
cleanest part of the white clothes, take 2 pails of
the suds in which they have been washed, put it
over the fire and scald, and this will wash all
the flannels and colored clothes, without any
extra soap. The white flannels, after being well.
washedin the suds, will require to be scalded by
turning on a teakettle of boiling water.

WA To Fz'na’.—In the early part of
the year, if the grass assumes a brighter color
in one particular part of a field than in the re-
mainder, or, when the latter is ploughed, if a,
part be darker than the rest, it may be suspected
that water will be found beneath it.

In summer, the gnats hover in a column, and
remain always at a certain hight above the
ground, over the spots where springs arelcon-
cealed.

In all seasons of the year, more dense va ors
arise from those portions of the surface rom
which, owing to the existence of subterranean
springs, a greater degree of humidity gives rise
to more copious exhalations, especially in the
morning or the evening. It is for this reason

 

that the well-sinkers of northern Italy go in the
morning to the places near which it is desired

33

514

DICTIOZVARY OFEVERY-DAY WANTS.

 

to sink a well; they lie down upon the ground
and look toward the sun to endeavor to dis-
cover the places in the neighborhood from which
denser vapors may arise than from the rest of
the field.

The springs to which these rules apply are
such only as are near the surface; when the
source is lower they are rarely sufficient, and the
only safe guide is a boring; but to execute such
operations with any chance of success, a certain
knowledge of elementary geology is absolutely
necessary. Provided the sources do not descend
to any very great depth, the principle that sub-
terranean waters follow precisely similar laws
to those upon the surface holds good; but when
they are deep-seated, many disturbing causes,
to be noticed hereafter, modify their action. If,
inavalley formed in a diluvial or alluvial de-
posit lying upon a more retentive stratum, the
two sides are of the same hight, the water must
be sought in the middle ; and if on the contrary,
one side be steeper than the other, the stream
would pass nearer the steeper side ; in both cases
supposing that the materials of the upper stra-
tum are equally permeable throughout, and that
the depression of the lower stratum presents a
tolerably regular basin-like depression. Springs
are often not to be met with at the head of val-
leys, but they are much more frequently to be
found at the intersection of the secondary valleys
with the principal one; and the most favorable

oint for finding water is usually that which is
urthest from the intersection of these valleys,
and in the lower parts of the plain succeeding
them, at precisely those positions where there is
the least water upon the surface.

When the transverse valleys, giving forth
streams to a river in the bottom of a longitudinal
valley, are nearly at right angles to the direction
of the latter, the quantity of water they yield is
less than when they form an angle with it. This
law holds equally good with subterranean and
with surface waters, and it may therefore be laid
down as a maxim that the most favorable point
for seeking a supply by a well would be at the
mouth of long transverse valleys inclined to the
principal one.

If the structure of the earth consists of stone
with many veins, such as red shale, water is
found almost anywhere except on the tops or
near the tops of hills. Boring, of course, is a
perfect test, and where there is great doubt and
wells must be dug very deep (judging by others
in the neighborhood), this ought to be resorted
to. Much can be guessed at in this way. In a
neighborhood lying between a tolerably regular
series of elevations, the subterranean water will
probably be at a regular level. If there are any
wells already in existence with a steady supply
of water, you have only to ascertain how much
higher or lower the surface at the selected spot
is than at the well already made. If you are ten
feet higher, your well must be ten feet deeper
than the one made, and vice versa. This differ-
ence in level can be ascertained with a leveling
instrument, or with a shrewd man by ess.

WA T ER, To Determine whet/1:7 it be Hard
or Styx—To ascertain whether or not water be
fit for domestic purposes, to a glassful of the
water add a few drops of the solution of soap in
alcohol. If the water be pure, it will continue
limpid; if hard, white flakes will be formed.

WATER (Hard), To Improve.—If nothing

 

but lime is the trouble, this can be easily dimin-
ished to one fifth or one sixth by means of quick-
lime. Notwithstanding it appears paradoxical
how an addition of lime can improve water hav-
ing already an excess of lime, it is nevertheless
a fact. The lime dissolved in water is always
the carbonate of lime, which is the chemical name
for the difi'erent kinds of so-called limestone,
marble, chalk, Iceland spar, etc. ; this carbonate
of lime is almost insoluble in pure water. When,
however, the water contains carbonic acid it
dissolves large quantities of the same, as may
be seen at druggists who from fountains draw
carbonic acid water (so-called soda-water) over
marble counters, these counters becoming even-
tually almost honey-combed at their surface by
its action. All that is necessary in your case is
to dispose of this free carbonic acid, which is the
cause of the solvent power of the water for lime-
stone. If, now, quicklime is mixed with a small
quantity of water, and left to settle until clear, a.
solution of lime in water will be obtained. As
quicklime is soluble in the same, you must cover
up your vessel, as otherwise this lime-water will
attract carbonic acid from the air and become
turgid. This clarified lime-water poured in your
hard spring-water, will at once cause its free
carbonic acid to combine with the lime, and form
chalk, which will precipitate with it the chalk or
limestone naturally in solution in the water, as
the cause of the solubility, the free carbonic acid,
is removed. The quantity of lime-water to be
used depends, of course, on the amount of lime-
stone in solution in your spring-water, and has
to be determined by experiment, in order to
avoid an excess of lime-water. Take, for in-
stance, a gallon of spring-water, pour in a few
ounces of clear lime-water, it will become milky;
let it settle, then pour in more lime-water; if it
again becomes milky, it wants still more; there-
fore repeat the addition of lime-water till you
find what quantity produces milkiness, while a
further addition has no effect; this is then the
uantity needed. Say, for instance, that you

find it to be eight ounces, then you know that
your water requires eight ounces of lime-water
to the gallon to remove most of the dissolved
limestone in the same, which will separate by
settling while you draw off the clear water over
it; the sediment is very fine chalk; and if obtained
in sufficient quantity, may be used for whitening.
It is evident that you will have to constructa
cistern or reservoir to conduct this operation in.
If you are able to obtain very pure quicklime,
you may, to simplify operations, make a milk of
lime, using, for instance, for every ton of hard
spring-water to he treated, one pound of quick-
lime mixed with half a gallon of water. Pour it
in the cistern, stir it up for a few minutes and
let it settle. The use of uicklime to purify
lime-water has quite recent y been successfully
introduced in the chalk districts of England by
Professor Tyndall, who has found that by care-
ful treatment as much as eighty-two per cent. of
the lime has been removed from hard waters.

WATER, To Prcvmt Btmmz'rzg Fulfill.—
This is founded on the principle that iron be-
comes rusty only in water that contains air. It is
the oxygen of the air, containedin the water, that
unites with the iron and produces rust.

So, also, the rustin of iron in water removes
the oxygen of the air gem the water. But water
in which there is no oxygen or atmospheric au'

MISCELLANEO US.

can not become putrid. To prevent water from
becoming putrid, we have, therefore, onl to put
in it some bits of iron. Some pieces 0 sheet-
iron (not rusty) or iron turnings are the best.
Cast-iron is not so good.

The practical applications of this are numerous.
Drinking~water on ships may be kept sweet by
putting it in sheet~iron tanks, or by putting bits
of iron into the water-casks. Water in which
leeches are kept will remain sweet without
changing it, by putting a few scraps of iron in
the vessel. The offensive smell from the water
in the vases of flowers will be prevented by a
few small nails, or bits of sheet-iron in the bottom
of the vases. The putrefaction of water, so
common in the bottom of rain-water cisterns,
would be prevented by scraps of iron or iron-
turniugs. In this case, it would be well to put
the iron where it would not be disturbed. Per-
haps if inclosed in a loose bag or net, it would
be well.

WA T ER, T a Purify wkm Putn'dr-I. Wa-
ter, 1 1b.; sulphuric acid, 8 drops. Mix, and
filter through charcoal.—2. Water, 8 gallons;
powdered alum, I ounce. Dissolve with agita-
tion, then allow it to rest for 24 hours, decant
into another vessel, and add a solution of car-
bonate of soda, until it ceases to produce a re-
cipitate.—3. Instead of alum add seven or eight
grains of red sulphate of iron, then proceed as
before.—4. Add a little aqueous chlorine to the
foul water.—5. Arrange a suitable pipe to the
end of a pair of bellows, (double ellows are
best,) and continue driving the atmospheric air
through the water for some time, then allow it
to settle for use.

WATER, To Clear when Muddy.— It is a
peculiar property of alum that, when in solution,
it will combine with the most foreign particles
in suspension, or even in solution. In fact, on
this property is founded the manufacture of the
lakes used in painting, the dissolved coloring
matter being precipitated by alum. In the same
manner, all dirty coloring matter in a pailful of
water may be preci itated by dissolving in it a
piece of alum as sma l as a hickory nut, or even
smaller, according to the degree of impurity of
the water. Simply dissolve the alum, stir up,
and let it settle. Along the Missouri and Mis-
sissippi rivers this method is frequently em-
ployed. When no excess of alum 15 used, this
also is mostly carried down in the deposits.

WA T ER, T a [flap C001 wit/taut Ian—Water
can be kept cool for drinking in warm weather
by the following method: Get fresh water, let
it be kept in an unglazed earthen ware pitcher,
wrapt around with two or three folds of coarse
cotton cloth kept constantly wet. The theory
of cooling water in this manner is the absorption
of heat from it by the evaporation of the moist-
ure in the cotton cloth—expansion produces
cold, compression heat.

‘ WA TE [1’ FIL TER.—Voelcker calls attention
to the use of spongy iron as a deodorizing ma-
terial of greater potency than animal charcoal.
Sewage water passed through a filter of spongy
iron is completely purified, and this water, after
having been kept six~months protected from the
air, was perfectly sweet and free from fungus
growth. The spongy iron was obtained by cal-
cining a finely divided iron ore and charcoal.

WA T ER TANA’S. é Wooden tanks and
bands are totally unfit to keep water in; the

 

51$

wood continually gives organic extractive matter '
to the water, which in warm weather originates
microscopic fungoid growth, which in its tum
hastens the decay of the wood. All who have
ever made a long sea-voyage on board of a ves-
sel where water was kept in wooden barrels,
will never forget the nauseous taste, lasting un-
til the settling of the particles, or the exhaustion
of the organic action producing the fungoid
growth. In regard to zinc in comparison with
lead, it is also poisonous; but lead is by far the
worst. Workmen in zinc-white factories and
painters using zincrwhite are apt to get the zinc
colic, which is similar to the lead colic, but more
mild in its forms, and yields more easily to the
same remedies. Galvanized iron being iron
covered with a zinc coating, is in this respect
identical with zinc, and we should prefer either
.to lead, which, for some kinds of water—rain
water, for instance—is decidedly dangerous, as
it dissolves the lead easier than the zinc. The
best method, however, is to employ plain iron
tanks, as used on ship-board. Oxidation of the
iron goes on, it is true; but this is exceedingly
slow—slower than is the case with any steam-
boiler; and if any of the iron oxide dissolves in
the water, it will in any case be very little, and
even if considerable, it would give the water
tonic properties, as iron is healthy. It gives the
red color to our blood, and is, in fact, needed in
the system; therefore, we are taking it all the
time in minute doses with our food. All fertile
soils contain iron. Its healthy properties have
caused the justly-earned reputation of chalyheate
springs; and in preserving our water in iron
tanks the loss of iron by oxidation is fully com-
pensated by the improved healthfulness of the
water. Therefore we say, away with zinc or
galvanized tanks and tubes, and above all, away
with lead-lined tanks and tubes, and substitute
tanks of boiler-iron and iron tubes; let them
rust; and if they give out in 30 years or there-
about. our children may substitute new ones,
and in t e mean time you will prolong your own
life many years, or at least spare yourself sick-
ness and suffering.

WA TE)? PIPES, T 0 Manage in mm”.—
When the frost begins to set in, cover the water
pipes with hay or straw bands, twisted tight
round them. Let the cisterns and water-butts
be washed out occasionally; this will keep the
water pure and fresh.

In pumping up water into the cistern for the
water-closet, be very particular, in winter time.
Let all the water he let out of the pipe when
done; but if this is for otten, and it should be
frozen, take a small gim let and bore a hole in
the pipe, a little distance from the place where
it is et off, which will prevent its bursting.
P? a peg into the hole when the water is let
0

WA TER PIPES, 7b Mandi—A British
scientific ublication gives the following letter:
“Manyo your readers have doubtless had more
or less trouble, at some period of their lives, in
repairing water pipes where the water could not
be shut off conveniently at the fountain head or
some intermediate point. In going to my oflice,
a few days since, my way led past a place where
a man was repairing a lead pipe, which had
been cut off accidentally in making an excava.
tion. There was a pressure of water of more
than fifty feet head. His plan seemed to me to

516

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY IVAZVTS'.

 

be novel and ingenious. The two ends of the
pipe were plugged, and then a small pile of

when ice and salt was placed around them ; in
five minutes the water in the pipe was frozen,
the plugs removed, a short piece of pipe inserted
and perfectly soldered, and in five minutes the
ice in the pipes was thawed and the water flow-
ing freely through.”

I/VA T ER PIPES, T a Unite.—An excellent
material for uniting water pipes is prepared by
combining four parts of good Portland cement
and one part of unslaked lime mixed together
in small portions in a stout mortar, adding
enough water to permit it to be reduced to a soft

aste.

p WA TERING STREETS, Ckemz'azl Solu-
tion fan—For several years experiments with
chemical solutions for watering streets have been
employed in various English cities with consid-
erable success. A mixed solution of common
salt and chloride of lime has been used to a
large extent. These salts attract moisture suf-
ficient to keep the street dust from becoming
absolutely dry unless neglected. A very small
quantity is said to answer the purpose, and not
only to keep the dust well laid, but also to act
as an antiseptic, cleaning the streets of foul
odors.

WA TER- TIGHT CELLAR FLOORS.—
When floors are not subjected to a great pres-
sure of water, a good hydraulic cement or water
lime will form a tight cellar bottom and sides;
but when the whole soil is full, and the cellar is
like a basin in it, the pressure of the water up.
ward will surely find crevices where it will ooze
up. The cure for this state of things is to get
drainage, if possible, and if this cannot be had
and repeated patching will not stop the leaks,
in a very dry time take up the top of the floor,
and after covering the whole with a layer of
gravel, pour into it melted asphaltum, which
'should be rolled and pounded down while warm,
and one or two more layers applied, topping
with sand. If the gravel can be hot also, it will
make a much better floor; but if it can not be,
some coal tar may be mingled with the asphalt-
um, and the gravel coated slightly with it before
the hot asphaltum is applied.

WA T ER-PROOF PAPER—The solution
of oxide of copper in ammonia acts, as is well
known, as an energetic solvent upon cellulose:
This property is made use of to water-prooipaper
in the following manner: A tank is made to con-
tain the solution just alluded to, and the paper
is rapidly passed just over and in contact with
the surface of the liquid, by means of properly
placed rollers moving with speed. The paper,
on leaving, is pressed between two cylinders,
and next dried by means of so-called drying

linders similar to those in use in our paper
mills. The short contact of the felty paper
tissue with the liquid gives rise to just sufficient
solution of cellulose to form an impermeable
varnish.

WA T ER-PROOF PA GIVING-PAPER.—
Water-proof packing-paper is thus made by some
manufacturers: The paper is covered with a
resinous liquid, then painted over with a solution
of glue and soot, as without this the paper will
later show blotches. After this is dried, the
aetual water-proof coat is applied. This is pre-
pared with two and a half ounces of powdered
shellac, dissolved in two pints of water, Wthh

 

is gradually brought to boil, and stirred until the
substance is perfectly dissolved and softened,
when gradually one third ounce of powdered
borax is added, until an intimate union of the
substances takes place. The liquid is then left
to cool, and while still hot any mineral color may
be added, such as lampblack, yellow ochre, red
ochre, iron blue, or burnt umber, whereupon it
is left to get entirely cold. It is then ready for
use. The operation can be so quickly performed
with a brush that two women can prepare three
thousand feet in ten hours. ,

WA T ER-PROOF for Porous Cloth—Dis.
solve 2% lbs. alum in 4 gal. water; dissolve also,
in a separate vessel, the same weight of acetate
of lead in the same quantity of water. When
both are well dissolved, mix the solutions to-
gether ; and, when the sulphate of lead resulting
from this mixture has been precipitated to the
bottom of the vessel in the form of a powder,
pour off the solution, and plunge into it the
fabric to be rendered water-proof. Wash and
rub it well during a few minutes, and hang it in
the air to dry.

WA T ER-PROOF for T weeds—Take two
pounds four ounces of alum and dissolve it in
ten gallons of water. In like manner dissolve
the same quantity of sugar of lead in a similar
quantity of water, and mix the two together.
They form a precipitate of the sulphate of lead.
The clear liquoris now withdrawn, and the cloth
immersed for one hour in the solution, when it
is taken out, dried in the shade, washed in clean
water, and dried again. This preparation enables
the cloth to repel water like the feathers ofa
duck’s back, and yet allows the perspiration to
pass freely through it.

WA T ER-PROOF Comporitz'an for Mad.—
Dr. Scherzer, an Austrian official at Pekin, has
just sent to his government some specimens of
aChinese composition called “Schioicao,” which
has the property of making wood and other sub-
stances perfectly water-tight. He says that he
has seen in Pekin wooden chests which had
been to St. Petersburg, and had come back
uninjured, and that the Chinese use the compo:
sition also for covering straw baskets, which are
afterwards employed in carrying oil for long
distances. Cardboard, when covered with the
composition, becomes as hard as wood; and
most wooden buildings in Pekin have a coating
of it. It consists of three parts of blood de-
prived of its fibrine, four of lime, andalittle
alum.

WEA T HER SIGNS—Animated bodies re-
ceive peculiar impressions that precede and an-
nounce change of weather. Thus we hear dis-
tant sOunds better when there is going to be
rain; we also then see remote objects more dis-
tinctly, and bad odors are more offensive than
usual.

Swallows skim the ground in their flight; is
it that they may feed on the worms that then
come out on the surface? Lizards hide, cats
make their toilet, birds oil their feathers, flies
bite more sharply, chickens scratch themselves
and roll in the dust, fish leap out of the water,
and aquatic birds flap their wings and dabble in
the ponds and brooks.

Nearly all the signs indicated announce damp.
ness in the air, rather than the approach of rain,
for they are not seen when a storm occurs in
dry weather. Thus the swelling of wood-work,

MISCELLA NE 0 US.

517

 

which renders it difficult to close doors made of
soft timber, and the contraction and tension of
cordage made of vegetable fibres, are counted
among the signs of atmospheric humidity. Rude
hggrometers have even been constructed of these
fi res.

Certain flowers do not open at all in rainy
weather; others, the Siberian thistle particular-
ly, remain open or shut according as the weather
is going to be rainy or dry.

Pallor of the sun announces rain; it is seen,
at such times only, through an atmosphere la-
den with vapors. If the heat be stifling. that
too is a sign of rain; for one is then surrounded
by an atmosphere saturated with vapor, and
more readily heated, owing to its lack of trans-
parency. If the vapors be collected in clouds,
the sun’s rays that pass through the latter height-
en the temperature more than they would have
done in perfectly clear weather. If the sun be
clear and brilliant, it foretells a fine day; but
when the sun is at its rising preceded by red-
ness, and this redness passes off the moment it
does appear, the sign is of rain.

Two winds of opposite qualities succeeding
each other often bring rain. Thus a cold wind,
entering an atmosphere impregnated with moist-
ure by the warm wind that preceded it, will
bring about a precipitation of water; and the
same will be the case where a damp, warm wind
enters air that had been chilled by the wind that
had preceded it. "

Generally, an approaching rain can be better
foreseen when the sky presents several banks or
layers of clouds resting one above the other.
The winds that carry with them detached masses
of clouds yield but light rains.

Motionless clouds, lying in the quarter whence
the wind blows, bring only a continuance of that
wind; but if they appear in the opposite quarter,
they announce its termination.

Clouds coming up simultaneously, yet impelled
by different winds, announce an early storm.

Clouds accumulating on the sides of mountains
foretell rain.

The following are the signs most familiar to
navigators and farmers:

rosy sky at sunset, fine weather. A red
sky in the morning, bad weather, or a great deal
of wind.

A gray sky in the morning, fine weather. If
the first light of dawn appears over a bed of
clouds, wind may be looked for. If on the hori-
zon, fine weather.

Light clouds with imperfectly defined edges
announce fine weather and moderate breezes.
Thick clouds with well~marked edges, wind. A
deep, dark blue sky of sombre tinge indicates
wind. A clear and brilliant blue sky indicates
fine weather. The lighter the clouds look, the
less reason is there to anticipate wind. The
more dense, the more rolled together, twisted,
and tattered they are, the stronger the wind will
be. A brilliant yellow sky at sunset announces
wind; a pale yellow one, rain. According to the
predominance of red, yellow, or grayish tints,
we can foretell the condition of the weather with
a very close approximation to accuracy.

Small clouds of an inky color portend rain.
Light clouds moving rapidly in the direction
opposite to dense masses, announce wind and
ram.

High clouds passing before the sun, the moon,

 

or the stars, in a direction opposite to that pur-
sued by the lower beds of clouds, or of the wind
felt' at the surface of the soil, indicate a change
of wind.

After fine weather, the first signs of a chan e
are ordinarily high white clouds in belts, or in
light dappled tufts or locks, which grow larger
and soon form dense and sombre masses. Gen-l
erally, the more remote and higher up these
clouds appear, the less abrupt the change of
weather will be, but it will be considerable.

Soft, light, delicate tints, with clouds of de-
cided shade, indicate or accompany fine weather.
Extraordinary tints and dense clouds, with hard
outlines, indicate rain, and probably a gale of
wind.

Remark the clouds that form on hills and
other elevated places, and cling there. If they
continue there, augment, or descend, they indi-
cate rain. If they, however, ascend and disperse,
they portend good weather. When sea-birds fly
out away from land in the morning, there will
be fine weather.

WEATHER TABLE, Dr. Adam Clark’s.
——The table and the accompanying remarks are
the result of many years’vactual observation, the
whole being constructed on a due consideration
of the attraction of the sun and moon, in the
several positions respecting the earth, and will
by a simple inspection show the observer what
kind of weather will most probably follow the
entrance of the moon into any of its quarters,
and that so near the truth as to be seldom or
never found to fail.

 

MOON. TIME OF CHANGE. IN SUMMER.

 

Between midnight and 2

 

 

U H

.2 o in the morning. Fair.

in c” E Between 2 and 4, morning. Cold, with showers.

E 8 3 “ 4and6, “ ain. .

“.2 g. “ 6 and 8, “ Wind and rain.

5 __ .4: “ 8 and 10, “ Changeable.

o '5 s: “ no and 12, “ Frequent showers.

2““ 2» At 1; o’clock, at noon, V

B U N an 2 P. M. ery rainy.

2°55! Bet. 2 and 4, afternoon. Changeable.

o g; “ 4 and 6, “ Fair. .

5 $23 “ 6 and 8, “ Fair, ifwrnd N. W.

: g u “ 8 and 10, ‘ “ Rainy, if wind 5. W.
0—5 “ IO and midnight. “ “ “

12 and 2 A.M. Fair.

 

Obse7vatz'ons.——I. The nearer the time of the
moon’s change, First Quarter, Full, and Last
Quarter, are to midnight, the fairer will the
weather be during the seven days following.
2. The space for this calculation occupies from
10 at night till 2 next morning. 3. The nearer
to midday or noon the phases of the moon hap-
pen, the more foul or wet weather may be ex-
pected during the next seven days. 4. The
space for this calculation occupies from 10 in the
forenoon to 2 in the afternoon. These obser-
vations refer principally to the summer, though
they affect spring and autumn nearly in the
same ratio. he moon’s change, First
Quarter, Full, and Last Quarter, happening
during six of the afternoon hours, 2'. e. from 4
to to, may be followed by fair weather; but this
is mostly dependent on the wind, as noted in
the table. 6. Though the weather, from a va-
riety of irregular causes, is more uncertain in
the latter part of autumn, the whole winter, and
the beginning of spring, yet in the main, the

518

DICTIONARY OFEVER-Y-DAY WANTS.

 

above observations will apply to those periods
also. 7. T o prognosticate correctly, especially
in those cases where the wind is concerned, the
observer should be within sight of a good vane,
where the four cardinal points of the heavens
are correctly placed. Within this precaution, he
will scarcely ever be deceived in depending on
the table. ,

WEA T HE)? TABLE, Dr. [fern/1211’s. -—-
The following table was constructed by the cele-
brated Dr. Herschell, upon a philosophic con-
sideration of the attraction of the sun and moon.
It is confirmed by the experience of many years’
observation, and will suggest to the observer
what kind of weather will probably follow the
moon’s entrance into any of her quarters.
Though calculated for England it will be found
applicable to other localities.

If the moon changes at 12 o’clock noon, the
weather immediately afterward will be very
rainy, if in summer, and there will be snow and
rain in winter.

If between 2 and 4 o’clock P. M.; changeable
in summer—fair and mild in winter.

Between 4 and 6 o’clock P. M.; fair in both
summer and winter.

Between 6 and 10 o’clock P. M.; in summer,
fair, if the wind is northwest; rainy, if south or
southwest. In winter, fair and frosty, if the
wind is north or northwest; rainy, if south or
southwest. _

Between 10 and 12 o’clock P. M.; fair in sum-
mer and frosty in winter.

Between 12 at night and 2 o’clock A. M.; fair
in summer and frosty in winter, unless the wind
is from the south or southwest. '

Between 2 and 4 o’clock A. M.; cold and
showery in the summer and snow and storm in
the winter.

Between 4 and 6 o’clock A. M.; rainy both in
winter and summer.

Between 6 and 8 o’clock A. M.; wind and
rain in the summer and stormy in the winter.

Between 8 and 10 o’clock A. M.; changeable
in summer, rain with a westerly and snow with
an easterly wind in winter.

Between 10 and 12 o’clock A. M.; showery in
summer, and cold and windy in winter.

IVELLS, To Remove Foul Air fronts—It is
well known that many accidents occur to per-
sons going down into wells to clean them, owing
to the noxious gas in such places. To remove
the gas before descent is made into any well, a
quantity of burned but unslaked lime should be
thrown down. This, when it comes in contact
with whatever water is below, sets free a great
quantity of heat in the water and lime, which
rushes upward, carrying all the deleterious gas
with it; after which, the descent may be made
with perfect safety. The lime also absorbs car-
bonic acid in the well. Always lower alight
before descending; if it is extinguished, there is
still danger of suffocation.

Another simple method is to let an umbrella
down and rapidly hauled up a number of times
in succession. The effect is to remove the
gas in a few minutes from a well so foul as to
instantly extinguish a candle previous to the use
of the umbrella.

WINDOW BLINDS, Nam—This consists
in a number of glass rods arranged either verti-
cally or horizontally, and secured together by
appropriate frames, forming a series of cylin-

 

drical lenses which break up the light and throw
it into every part of the room, thus producing a
soft and diffused glow which is very beautiful
and pleasant. The glass rods may be of any
color, and by an arrangement of the colors very
beautiful effects can be produced.

WINE OF l/VILD CHERRY BARK—Al-
coholic extract (from 24 ounces) of wild cherry
bark, 5% ounces; sweet almonds, 3 ounces;
water, 1 pint; sherry wine, 2 pints. Beat the
almonds with the water to a paste, rub down the
extract with half a pint of the wine, and mix the
two liquids in a bottle of the capacity of three
pints, stop it closely, and permit it to stand for
three days, with occasional agitation; then add
the remainder of the wine, allow it to standa
week and filter. By this mode of proceeding,
opportunity is afforded for the development of
the hydrocyanic acid before the menstruum is
made so alcoholic as to retard the reaction which
favors its formation. Thus made, wine of wild
cherry bark is a transparent, wine-red liquid,
having an astringent bittenalmond taste and
odor, much less agreeable than the syrup, and
of about the same strength. The dose of this
prleparation as a tonic and sedative is a teaspoon-
u .

WOOD, To Prawn! Decay in.-—-A process
has been .discovered for the prevention of the
decay of wood. As the result of a five years’
experience, a paint is recommended,- which at
the same time poSsesses the advantages of being
impervious to water. It is composed of fifty
parts of tar, five hundred parts of fine white sand,
four parts of linseed oil, one part of the red
oxide of copper in its native state, and finally,
one part of sulphuric acid. In order to manu-
facture the paint from this multiplicity of materi-
als, the tar, sand, and oil, are first heated in
an iron kettle; the oxide and acid are then
added with a great deal of caution. The mass is
very carefully mixed and applied while hot.
When thoroughly dry, this paint is as hardas
stone.

WOOD, Pram nation ry”. ——The use of creosote,
or sulphate of copper or iron, for preserving
wood, is open to objections which unfit their
employment for floorings or ornamental wood
work, the first-named leaving a permanent,
disagreeable smell, the latter discoloring the
wood. Borax is now found to be admirably
adapted for keeping such from decay. The pre-
paration is simple, and consists in immersing the
wood in a saturated solution of borax, which is
then heated to two hundred and twelve degrees
Fahrenheit. The wood is left for ten or twelve
hours, the time depending upon the density and
size of the planks. When taken out, the boards
are stacked until dry, then re-immersed in a
weaker solution of the salt for a brief time, dried
again, and are then ready for use. Boards thus
prepared are practically indestructible from rot,
and are nearly incombustible. Another pre-
servative is said to be a compound of one part
silicate of potassa and three of pure water—the
wood to remain in the solution twenty-four
hours, then dried for several days, then soaked
and dried a second time, and subsequently painted
twice over with a mixture of one part water-ce-
ment and four of the first-mentioned mixture.
Thus prepared, it will not deca in the ground,
and will be incombustible out o it.

WOOD, To Paraffin—Gem salt, rock alum,

MISCELLANEOUS.

519

 

white vinegar, chalk and peebles powder, of
each an equal quantity. Mix well together. If,
after the ebullition is over, you throw into this
any wood or porous substance, it will petrify it.

WOOD, T o Samoa—Small pieces of non-r -
sinous wood can be seasoned perfectly by boiling
four or five hours—the process taking the sap
out of the wood, which shrinks nearly one-tenth
in the operation. The same writer states that
trees felled in full leaf in June or July, and allowed
to lie until every leaf has fallen, will then be
nearly dry, as the leaves will not drop of them-
selves until they have drawn up and exhausted
all the sap of the tree. The time required is
from a month to six weeks, according to the
dryness or wetness of the weather. The floor
of a mill laid with poplar so treated, and cut up
and put in place in less than a month after the
leaves fell, has never shown any shrinkage.

W 000, T a Split—In splitting the saw pieces
it is much easier to split by slabs than to try and
cleave them through the centre. This means to
split off pieces at a time, but alittle from the
edge; and we may add, that wood splits much
more readily in the direction up from the root of
the tree, than when the blow of the axe is down-
ward. In other words, to split a chunk place
it upside down—contrary to the direction in
which it grew—before striking at it.

WOOD PULP, To Bleach—A process of
bleaching wood pulp has been made known by
M. Orioli. He has recognized that chloride of
lilne, however little in excess, has a tendency to
produce a yellow tint; that all the strong acids
turn the paste red under the action of the sun,
or in some time without sunlight, in the presence
of moisture; that the slightest trace of iron is
sufficient to blacken the paste in a very short
time. These objectionable results are obviated
by the following mixture: For too kilogrammes
(200 lbs.) of wood pulp 800 grammes of oxalic
acid are employed, this serving the double pur-
pose of bleaching the coloring matter already
oxidized and of neutralizing the alkaline princi-

les favorable to oxidation; 2 kilogrammes (2%
lbs.) of sulphate of alumina, perfectly free from
iron, are added. The principal agent in this
new process is the oxalic acid, the energetic
action of which on vegetable matters is well
known. The sul hate of alumina added does
not bleach of itsel , but it forms with the coloring
matter of the wood a nearly colorless lake,
which hightens the brilliancy of the product.

WRITING, T a Prevent Alteration: in.—If

on should desire at any time to write a document
in such a manner as to render attempts at altering
or falsifying your manuscript impossible, bear in
mind a hint given in a French paper-makers’
journal, that by steeping paper in a very weak
solution of gallic acid, you obtain a writing sur-
face upon which ordinary ink makes a mark that
defies deceitful erasure or alteration, by rendering
any attempt at such easily detectable.

WRITINGS, T 0 Restore wfim Dray/ed.—
Cover the letters with solution of ferrocyanide
of potassium, with the addition of a diluted min-
eral acid; upon the application of which, the
letters change very speedily to a deep blue color,
of great beauty and intensity. To prevent the

spreading of the color, which, by blotting the
parchment, detracts greatly from the legibility,
the ferrocyanide should be put on first, and the
diluted acid added upon it. The method found

 

to answer best has been to spread the ferrocya:
nide thin with a feather or a bit of stick cut to a
blunt point. Though the ferrocyanide should
occasion no sensible change of color, yet the
moment the acid comes upon it, every trace of a.
letter turns at once to a fine blue, which soon
acquires its full intensity, and is beyond compar-
ison stronger than the color of the original trace.
If, then, the corner of a bit of blotting-paper be
carefully and dexterously applied near the letters,
so as to imbibe the superfluous liquor, the stain-
ing of the {parchment may be in a great measure
avoided; or it is this superfluous liquor which,
absorbing part of the coloring matters from the
letters, becomes a dye to whatever it touches.
Care must be taken not to bring the blotting-
paper in contact with the letters, because the
co oring matter is soft whilst wet, and may
easily be rubbed off. The acid chiefly employed
is the muriatic; but both the sulphuric and nit-
ric succeed very well. They should be so far
diluted as not to be liable to corrode the parch-
ment, after which the degree of strength does
not seem to be a matter of much nicety.

WRITING, To Make Indelible.—The fol-
lowing simple process will make lead-pencil
writing or drawing as indelible as if done with
ink. Lay the writing in a shallow dish, and
pour skimmed milk upon it. Any spots not wet
at first may have the milk placed upon them
lightly with a feather. When the paper is all
wet over with the milk take it up and let the
milk drain off, and whip oil” with the feather the
drops-which collect on the lower edge. Dry it
carefully, and it will be found to be perfectl
indelible. It cannot be removed even wit
India rubber. It is an old and a good recipe. .

WRITE (How to) Bminer: Letterr.—Use
the fewest words which will clearly convey your
meaning; superfluous words waste time and are
apt to confuse.

Write plainly. Elegant writing is often un-
readable, and it is better to write legibly even if
you think plain letters not so handsome. Be par-
ticular to make all proper names and figures es-
pecially plain. Flourishes are out of place in a
business letter.

When ordering goods state carefully what you
want and the amount you inclose.

In replying to a letter it is well to begin by
stating in brief the substance of that letter’s
contents, so your correspondent will see that
you have got his meaning, as well as to refresh
his memory about the matter you are writing on.

Always sign your name and address in full to
each letter you write, even though you have writ-
ten to the same person before. Be careful to
give post oflice, county and state very plainly, as
different names are often very similar. It is well
to spell the name of our state in full.

Always read your etter over before inclosing
in the envelope, to make sure you have not for-
gotten anything. If money is to be inclosed, be
sure it is. Seal securely and direct plainly.

It is well to make a little memorandum, at the
time of writing, of what you have written, time,
etc. This is handy to refer to in case of mistake.

If a dealer does not in due time respond to
an order intrusted to him, in justice to yourself
and him you should write for an explanation.
State when you wrote to him, what you wrote
for, amount, if any, inclosed, how you directed
the goods to be sent, and any other information

520

you think important. If you do not remember
the exact date, give the nearest guess you can
to it. If you merely write,——“I sent on an
order some time ago, and you havn’t fil ed it,”
it is almost impossible to investigate the matter
in an establishment of any size. It is unneces-
sary to call people swindlers, when you write
to them, even 1f you think so. If they are honest,
they will not be inclined to do more than they
are bound to; if dishonest, they expect that kind
of thing, and take it as a matter of course.
When you know a person to be a cheat, don’t
waste your time and postage, telling him you
will expose him, but go to work and do it.

WRITING, (New), To Illa/re Loo/e Old.—
Take I dr. of saffron, and infuse it in % pt.
of ink, and warm it over a gentle fire, and it
will cause whatever is written with it to turn
yellow, and appear as if of many years’ standing.

WRITING (010’), To Copy—I. Press copies
of old letters or manuscript can be taken, it is
said, by pressing the pages on the dampened
paper in the usual way, and then applying the
vapor of ammonia. Although no result may
appear to follow the first operation, we are as-
sured that after the second the letters will appear
distinctly on the dampened blotting-paper. An-
other method consists in dampening the manu-
script with a solution of sugar, honey, or mud-
laginous matter, and then applying as heretofore.
In this case the sugar is put on the paper,
instead of being mixed previously in the ink, as
is done in one form or other with ordinary
copying inks.—-—2. (Carré’r Mei/20d.) This is
accomplished by wetting unsized copying paper
with a solution of one part of hydrochloric, or
muriatic acid, and twelve of water, instead of
plain water; and, after laying this on the manu-
script, subjecting the whole to pressure with the
ordinary copying press. This method has also
lately been used to test the antiquity of certain
writing, since, when the manuscript is thirty
years old, only an illegible copy can be made.
.On the other hand, writing less than ten years
old disappears entirely after immersion of some
hours or days in the same solution, while that
thirty years old and more continues legible after
fifteen days’ maceration. In taking a press copy
of writing by Carré’s method any acid absorbed
by the paper can be neutralized by exposing it
for a few seconds above a dish containing aqua
ammonia.

WRITIIVG, T 0 T a/ee out—Wash by means
of camel’s hair pencils dipped alternately in
solutions of cyanide of potassium and oxalic acid.

WRITING for fire P7735L—I. Do not say,
“I write in a hurry, please correct all mistakes.”
You have ten times the opportunity to do this
that the editor has. His time is worth from fifty
cents to ten dollars an hour, and he will be likely
to correct your errors by fire, and then they will
never trouble any one any more. You must do
your own work if you want it done. It is said
that Newton wrote his chronology over fifteen
times before he was satisfied with it, and Gibbon
wrote out his memoir nine times before sending
it to the press. No beginners can expect better
success or less labor than such learned men.

2. Do not write poetry. Most who try, do
not know what poetry is, and they cannot be
told till they have learned a great deal more than
they know now. Ninety-nine one hundredths
of the rhyme written is good for three things: I.

 

DICTIONARY 0F EVERY-DAY PVANTS.

To give to friends who prize it for the giver’s
sake. 2. It makes passable kindlings. 3. It
will bring about three cents a pound at the paper
mill, to work up with old rags. Write proscr-
poetic prose is far better than prosaic poetry.

3. Do not write long articles, or long sentences.
Write as you would atelegram, where each word
costs a dime, or an advertisement, which costs a
dollar a line. .

4. Do not ask an editor to return your manu-
script. Keep a copy. With ahundred letters
a day to read, he has something to do besides
hunting up last year’s manuscripts, received,
rejected, and buried, or burned, long ago.

, 5. Do not get angry because your first article
is rejected. Quite likely ifit is printed, you will
live to wish it had been burned, or sent to the
paper mill. The first pair of shoes a cobbler
makes are not likely to sell very readily; and
it takes more skill and longer practice to write
good articles than to make good shoes.

6. Keep trying and sending on; the practice
will do you good; and if writing is in you it will
come out. But if you cannot stand criticism, and
rejection, and fault finding, you will make apoor
author, and may as well know it at once. The
writer’s first article was rejected; he kept it
awhile, sent it to the same paper again, and it
was printed.

7. Remember an editor may have a peek of
better articles than yours is, which he wrote
himself, and yet .does not think them worth
publishing. He will do the best he can, consist‘
ently, by you. He is more anxious to encourage
good writers than you are to write.

8. Do not expect a poor editor to set upa
reading school, spelling school, grammar school
and writing school for the benefit of those who
have not improved their opportunities at home.
You can study these matters anywhere; do not
impose your ignorance on an editor, and then
wonder that he has not time to fool over such
nonsense. Some poor printer has to set up the
type for your article. Every cent you save by
using pale ink, poor paper, and writing care-
lessly because you are in a hurry,or writing finely,
or crosswise, to save three cents postage, will
cost the printer in toil, delay, and eye-sight, at
least fifty times as much money as you will save,
besides causing him to commit blunders for you
to scold about. Do you wonder such articles are
rejected?

9. Do not get angry. Do not write slang, or
personalities. or abuse, or slander.

10. Finally. I. Write with black ink, on
white paper, wide ruled. 2. Make the pages
small, one~fourth that of a foolscap sheet. 3.
Leave the second page of each leaf blank. 4.
Give to the written page an ample margin all
round. 5. Number the pagesin the order of
their succession. 6. Write in a plain bold hand,
with less respect to beauty. 7. Use no abbre-
viations which are not to appear in print. 8.
Punctuate the manuscript as it should be printed.
9. For italics underscore one line; for small
capitals, two; capitals, three. 10. Never inter-
line without the caret to show its place. It.
Take special pains with every letter in pro er
names. 12. Review every word, to be sure t at
none is illegible. 13. Put directions to the
printer, at the head of the first page. I4. Never
write a private letter to the editor on the printer’s
copy, but always on a separate sheet.

Abortion, 207

———- in cows, 89

Accidents, to avord, 11

to prevent, 11

—— (lamp), to prevent, 158
Accounts, keeping, 118
Acetic ether, 71

Acid, Citric, 63

-— soap, 312

—— stomach, 238
strawberry, 362
Acquafortis, antidote for, 15
Acquariam cement, 32
Adhesive cloth, 63
Adulterated bread, 45
Adulteration of soap, 312

of wines and liquors, 362
Age of cattle, 87

—--—— of dogs, 170

of horses, 103

Ague. 207. 222, 470

—-—-— to avoid, 447

bitters, 65

pills, 78

powder, 81

Alabaster, to clean, 151
—- cement, 32

to harden, 447

to polish, 447

Alaska icebergs, 447
Albertype process, 272
Albumen, substitute for, 272
Alcohol, 362

Alcoholic poison, antidote for, 15
Ale, to brew, 363 '
burton, 363

for private families, 363
Alkanet root, 82

Alloy, incorrosive, 397
forjournal boxes, 397
for soldering iron to steel, 397
Almond bloom, 66

—-—- cakes, 46

—— meal, 312

paste, 312

—— paste 'for birds, 168
—— soap, 312

Almonds, milk of, 75

Aloes, pills of, 78

—— with myrrh pill, 78

— with soap pill, 78
Alterative, 64 _

— rheumatic, 64
Aluminum, 397

— bronze, 404

Amalgam for electrical machines, 398
of gold, 398

——- for mirrors, 398
Amaudine, 312

Amber varnish, 267
Ammonia, antidotes for, 15 1
Anaesthesia, to prolong, 67
Anchovy butter, ’40
Anchovres, English, 293
Anglo-Japanese work, 242
Aniline colors, to make soluble in wa-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Animals (dead), to convert into ma-
nure, 137

___.— (dead), .to preserve, 461

_— preservmg, 190

__.—Jump1ng fences, 94

effect of kindness on, 87

Anisettc, cordial, 373

Ankle, sprained, 208

Annealing steel, 398

Annotto, choice of, 120

dyes, 3. 8
Anodyne, Hotiinan's, 64

 

 

 

INDEX.

Anti-bilious pills, 78

Antidotes for every poison, 15 to 18

Antimoniod, 398

Antique painting, 243

Ants, to destroy, 173

in greenhouses, 120

Aphorisms for bathers, 208

Aperient, magnesian efl'ervescing, 64

Apiary, 20

to establish, 21

Apoplexy, 208

Appetite, loss of, 208

Apple bread, 41, 45

butter, 293

cake, 41

cream, 41

custard, 41

floating island of, 41

fritters, 41

Jam, 293, 994

Jelly, 54, 293, 303

marmalade, 294

puddings, 41

sauce, 41

slum, 41

short cake, 46

snow, 41

souffle, 41

tree borer, 118

trees, lice on, 118

—- to plant, 119

— tokeep rabbits frombark-
ing, 118

-— to renovate, 118

— suckers, 119

treatment of, 118

trifle, 41

wine, 383

Apples, to color while growing, 118

to dry, ,293

preservmg, 294

(pine), to preserve, 294

Applying manure, 137

Apricot, dried, 294

ram, 294, 303

Jelly, 294 .

marina ade, 304

Wine,

Aquarium, principles of, 165

. home made, 165

—-—-— fresh water, 165

marine, 166

management of, 166

Architectural cement, 32

Argand gas-burner, 472

Arnica liniment, 74

Arrack unch, 363

atavia, 363

Arrowroot, blanc-mange, 41

16113554

pudding, 59

Arsenic, antidotes for, 15

—— test for, 63

Arsenical soap, 1 , 1

Artichokes, 41 93 3 3

boiled, 41

Jerusalem, 119

Artificial skin, 63

Stone, 30

Ashberrium, 398

Asiatic inks, 200

Asparagus, 42

—-—-— to cultivate, 119

soup, 42

Asthma, 208, 223

in birds, 166

Assay of soap, 312

Athol brose, 46

Atmosphere, purity of, 441

Atrophy, 208

 

 

 

 

Ill!

 

 

 

Ill llllllllll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Atrophy in birds, :67
Automatic blacking, 198
Awnings, mildew proof, 447
Axle-grease; 447

A'yer’s cherry pectoral, 67

Babies, food for, 225
Back, weak, 208
Backs of horses,
Bacon, 295
Baiting traps, 197
Baits for fishing, 182
Baking powder, 42
Bakers' itch, 228
Baldness, treatment of, 323
remedies for, 323
Ball, cough, 96
—— diuretic, 96
physrc, 96
purgative, 96
—— worm, 96
Balls, heel, 1 9
camp or, 65
, for securing cloth, 333
for removing grease and
paint, 64
Balloon varnish, 448
Balloons, gas for, 448
Balm of beauty, 64
of Gilead, 64
— -—-— imitation, 64
-—-— —— salve, 82
of a thousand flowers, 64
Balsam, glycerine, 64
of honey, 64
Indian, 64
-— Mitchell’s, 64
—— of Tolu, 64
Balmony herb, 65
Banbury cakes, 46
Bandoline, 65
rose, 65
Banks (steep), to cover with grass, 12.
Barberry hedge, 134
Barbers’ itch, 228
Bark, American poplar, 65
—— wild cherry, 65
Barking apple trees, 118
Barks, to preserve, 65
Barley, to cultivate, 120
-———- to harvest, 120
—— seed, 145
Barns, paint for, 260
Barrels, to sweeten, 363
Bairometer, home made, 448
—— animated, 448
Baseball, to make, 448
Basement floors, 27
Basketsi1 to crystallize, 448
anging, 6
Bath, cold, 208 47
fixing, 273
hot, 209
negative, 273
to restore, 273
Russian, 209
sensitizing, 273
shower, 209
tepid, 209
tonm , 273 *
Turkigsh, 209
vapor, 209
warm, 209
Barbers, aphorisms for, 208
Bathing, sea, 448
Batswing gas burner,.472
Battery, copper solution for, 408
-——— electrical, 398
galvanic, 398

galled, 106

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

H!!!

 

 

521

22

UI

Battery, mercurial, 393
- to plate with, 398
liquid for, 400
Baulky horses, 96
Bay rum, 65
Bayberry soap, 313
Beachnuts, use of, 12:
Bead for liquors, 363
Beans, to cook, 42
castor-oil, 121
to cultivate, 120
to keep fresh for winter, 295
green, 42
Lima, 121
Bears grease, 65
Beauty, to acquire, 323
Beaver skins, to dress, 176
Bed—bu gs, to exterminate, 173
Bed for dogs, 170
Beds, care of, 151

ed-rooms, ventilation of, 449
Bee feeder, 22
hive, to make, 21
—— position of, 2:
queen, 2o
stings, 1
Bees, drone, 209
going to the woods, 21
history of, 20
enemies of, 23
Italian, 23
pasturage for, 22
(queen), to rear, 23
sunshine and shadow for, 23
water for, 23
working, 20
wintering, 23
wax, to bleach, 23
roth, 43
to cure, 295
collops, 42 _
(corned), to bed, 43
curried, 43
cutlets, 43
dry. 295
hash, 43
fillet of, 42
to jud e of its quality, 42
(leg 0 , to bake, 42
pickled, 295
potted, 43
rissoles, 43
to roast, 42
(rump of), to bake, 42
with mushrooms, 43
stewed with onions, 43
4—-— tea, 4 , 61
Beefsteak, to cook, 43
and onions, 43
rolls, 44
Beer, to give the appearance of age
to, 364
bouquet, 364
cheap, 364
WP; 354
to enliven and restore when
dead, 364
flying. 364
ginger, 364
(ginger), powders, 364
hep, 3 5
to improve flavor of, 364
lemon, 365
maple, 365
molasses, 365
musty, 365
Philadelphia, 365
root, 365
row, 365
sassafras, 365
solid, 365
sour, 366
spruce, 366
strong, 366
tomatoe, 366
Beets, boiled, 96 .
Beetles, to destroy, 174
Belladonna ointment, 77
Bell metal, 400
Belts, to oil, 449
Bengal chutney, 297'
Bichromatism, 273 , ,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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or

eef

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l

 

llllllllllllllll ll!

 

 

 

INDEX.

Big leg in horses, 96

head in horses, 96
shoulder in horses, 96
Bilious colic, 214

fever, 223
Biliousness, 209

Bird lime, 176

 

 

 

. Birds, asthma in, 166

atrophy or wasting in, 167
almond aste for, 168
bloody ux in, 167
catching, 176
consumption in, 161
costiveness in, 167
decline in, 167
diarrhoea in, 167
disorders of, 166
German paste for, 168
moulting of, 167

to mount, 176

paste for, 168

the pip in, 166

to preserve, 176
rheum in, 166

l

 

l‘lllllllllllllll

(singing), food for, 167
to skin, 176
. to stufl“, 176
Birds-nest pudding, 59
Biscuit, ginger, 53
milk, 55
seed, 46
wine, 46
Bites of the cobra, 12
harvest bug, I!
insect, 11
mad dog, 11
snake, 12
Biting the nails, 33o
Bitters, ague, 65
blackberry, 65
brandy, 336
cathartic, 65
stomach, 336
tonic, 65
Blackberry brandy, 367
hitters, 65
cordial, 373
jam, 295
sxmp, 295, 377
wme,
to cultivate, 121
Blackbird, the, 168
Blackboard, artificial, 449
aint, 44
Black c 0th, to ciean, 458, 349
enamel, 466

eye, 221
healing salve, 450
Blackin g, to make, 197
——-— German, 199
harness, :99 .
—-——— India rubber liqutd, 199
—-— —— —- paste, 199
for leather seats, 200
liquid, 200
for Morrocco shoes, 199
paste, 200
stove, 163
—— water proof, 200
Black dye, 338
— for cotton, 339
-—— for chip bonnets, 339
— for straw bonnets, 339
— for wool, 339
copal varnish, 266
ivory, 250

apan varnish, 266
amp, 250
leg in cattle, 88
lead, to remove, 151
luster color, 450
paint, 250
silk, to choose, 338
silk, to do up, 338
soap. 313
stain, 263
varnish, 266
walnut graining, 255
Bladders, to prepare, 65, 450
Blandmange, arrowroot, 4:
chocolate, 49

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

llllllllllllll!

 

 

 

rump gland obstruction in, 167

I

Blane-mange, corn starch, so
Blankets, to clean, 151
Blanketting horses, 105
Bleaching cotton, 342
linen, 342
silk, 342
soap, 313
wool, 342
wool on tanned pelts, 179
Bleeding, cotton for staunching, 63
rom the lungs, 12

—-— at the nose, 12
of wounds, 12
giggt in fruit trees, 121

in staggers in 1 s
Blistered feet, 222p g , 93
Blistering tissue, 65
Blister for horses, 96
Bloat in cattle, 89
Blond, to wash, 351
Blood, alterative for, 64
fulness of in horses, 91
spitting of, 209
tests for, 65
transfusion of, 209
Bloody milk in cows, 90
Bloom, almond, 66
of roses, 65
Blotched face, 324
Blue black ink, 201
—— for ceilings, 230
chrome, 339
dye, 339. 340
enamel, 466
flag, 66
ink, 20!
hqmd, 74, 34°
paint, 250
—— Prussian, 250, 340, 34!
(gums). dye. 34x
( axon). dye, 341
(sky), dye, 342
stain, 263
for steel ploughs, 404
ultramarine, 250 '
vitriol, antidote for, 16
writing fluid, 202
Bluing steel articles, 404
Boards, to take ink out of, 151
to take oil out of, 151
Boiled goose, 57
—-- onions, 53
Boiler explosions, 400
incrustations, 400
lime deposits in, 401
Boils, 210
Bones, to dye and color, 450
to convert into manure, 137
to pulverize for fowls, 113
to whiten, 450
Bonnets, to prevent injuring the hair,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

151

(straw), to clean, 359

(straw), to dye, 359

Book-binders' varnish, 452

covers, marbling for, 450 to 452

. making, 450

Books, Chinese edge for, 451

to gild edge of, 451

to gild leather backs of, 452

——-— ink stains on, 158

mould in, 158

to remove stains from, 151

Boot leather, preservation of, 152

Boots and shoes, care of, 151

— —— to restore color of, 152

-—— — (rubber),to mend, 152

—— — —-—- to soften, 152

————-- — (soles of), to make
water-proof, 152

———- — -—— squeaking, to pre-
vent, 152

—— -—-—— —— (summer), to pre-

serve through the
winter, 152

-— — water-proof compo-
sition for, 152

Boots (kid), to clean, 112

India rubber water proof for,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

152
—— (patent leather), care of, 152
-~ —- (pegged),toprevenmppmg,1p

Boots (white jean), to clean, :12

Borax for the blow-pipe, 401

—— substitute for, 401

virtues of, 342

Boring holes in glass, 389

Borer, apple tree, 118

peach, 142

Botanical specimens, to dry, 243

Bottles (musty), to sweeten, 366

sealing, 366

——-- wax for, 40, 366

Bottling, corks for, 367

—— malt liquors, 367

Botts,9

B0uqi1et7s of colored grass,2

to keep bright and fresh, 296

Boulders, to remove, 122

Bowels, accute inflammation of, 210

——-— chronic inflammation of, 210

(loose), in horses, 97

Boxes for starting plants, 143

Boys, to attach to farm life, 121

Brain, inflammation of, 210

enlargement of, 210

softening of, 211

Brande' s ink, 201

Brandreth' s pills, 78

Brand dy. 362

———— British, 367

blackberry, 367

cherry, 367

cognac, 367

to decolorize, 367

—— French, 367

pale, 367

Brass, 401; 402

to bronze, 402

burnishmg, 402

to clean, 151, 402, 404, 409,

452

coating, 402

—— to coat with tin, 402, 409

to coat with zinc, 409

—— to deposit on zinc or other
metals, 402I

-— dipping.4o

inlaid work, to polish, 403

to lacquer, 403

—— ornaments, to clean, 151

—- to preserve, 404

—— to temper, 404

to tin, 408, 409

for wire, 404

adulterated, 45

apple, 41. 4s

——-—— brown, 45

——-—— cake, 47

com, 45

—— French, 44

graham, 44

to keep moist, 45

to make without flour, 44

_— oxygenated, 44

panada, 58

potatoe, 45

——-- pudding, 46

.———- rice, 45

—— rye, 45

-—-—-— sago,

—— to serve at table, 45

unfermented, 44

willow, 45

yeast for, 44

Breachy cattle, 87

Breakfast cake, 47

Breaking dowri in horses, 97

Breasts, caked, 211

-— (sore), in horses, 97

Breath (bad), see charcoal. 67

—— foetid, 211

offensive, 324

—— pastilles for perfuming, 77

Breeding trout, 197

Breweries, 367

Brewing, 368

Brick buildings, to paint, 25

—— making, 24

ovens, to make, 25

- walls, coating for, 25

to wet, 25

Bright 5 disease, 211

Britannia metal, 404_

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

_.__

 

Bread,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INDEX.

Britannia metal, to clean, 153

British oil, 76

Broadcloth, stains on, 342

Brocoli, to i , 46_

Bromide of potassium, 66

Bronchial troches, 66

Bronchitis, 211

Bronchocele, 211

Broom com, 128

Br001ne‘ s ink, 201

Brooms, use and management of, 153

Brose, athol, 46

-Scotch, 46

Broth, beef, 43

calves foot, 48

chicken, 49

of fragments, 46

mutton, 56

veal, 62

Bronze, aluminum, 404

for brass, 405

for cutting instruments, 404

sold, 404

green, 405

(to), plaster figures, 432

for mortars, 405

powder, 405

for statuary, 405

Bronzin gun barrels, 404
u1d, 405

for iron or wood, 405

leather, 482

of ornamens, 405

——-— Size, 263

surface, 405

Brown bread, 45

dye, 342. 343

enamel, 466

—— freestone, to imitate, 250

ink, 201

Brown’ 5 bronchial troches, 66

Bruises, balsam for, 64

in furniture, 156

Brushes, care of, 250

hair, 327 ,

varnish, 266

Brushing the hair, 327

cloths, 333

Buchu, extract, of, 71

infusion of, 73

Buckskin, to dye, 18o

Buff dye, 343

BuFfalo skin, to tan, 179

Bugs, to destroy, 122

Building cement, 32

chimne s, 26

house, ints on, 24

material, strength of, 453

Buildings, composition for covering, 26

Bull rings, to insert, 93

Bunion, 211

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Burning lens, 453

Burns and bruises, artificial skin for, 63
and scalds, 12

Bursting of guns, 185

Burying alive, 212

Butcher knives, 405

Butter, apple, 293

churning cream for, 123
to clarify, 46

coloring, 123

to keep in summer, 296

to keep sweet, 296
improved coloring for, 123
to make, 122

marketing, 124

packing, 124

to preserve fresh, 124
rancid, 46

to restore when rancid, 124, 453
salting and working, 123
winter treatment of, 123
Butterflies, to prepare, 453

 

 

 

HIHHHI

 

 

Cabbage, the cut-worm on, 124
to grow, 124

to pickle, 296

plants, salting, 124
-— to preserve 1n winter, 296

 

 

 

 

 

523

Cabbage salad, 46

to stew, 46

Cabinet makers' varnish, 266
Cadaver, preservation of, 66
Cages for parrots, 172
Caked breasts, 211

Cake, almond, 46

apple. 41

apple short cake, 46

 

 

 

chocolate paste, 47
cinnamon, 47

com. 47

fruit, 52

green com, 53
819g“: 47

griddle, 47

icing for, 47

Johnny, 47

Indian meal, 54
lemon, 47, 55
sandw1ch, 47

soda, 6o

sponge, 60

wedding, 47

yeast, 48

Calico, 153

—— quilt, to wash, 346
Calicoes, to wash, 43
Calisaya bark and iron, 70
Calf's foot broth, 481
feetjefly, 54. 296. 393
Calves, care of, 92

chalk for, 91

——- lice on, 92

—— vermin on, 92 ,
—— scours in, 92

Cameo medallion, carte- de—visit, 273
Camera, to adjust, 273
Camphoratcd dentrifice, 69
——--— soap ,13 5

Camphor balls, 65

cerate, 67

ice, 66, 73

liniment, 74

to pulverizc, 74.
varnish, 266

Canada thistle, 147

Canaries, care of, 168

to distinguish sex of, 168
hints on choosing, 168
insects on, 169
(young), to tame, 169
Cancer, 212

Candied citron, 297

—— orange, 306

Candles, 313 to

to make hum all night, 153
Candle stick, to clean, 153
Candies, chocolate cream, 48
to clarify sugar for, 48
Everton taffee candy, 48
fruit, 48

—-- ginger, 48

Candy, cough, 68

—— common twist, 48'

HHIIHHHHIHII

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

molasses, 48

Scotch butter, 48
Candying fruit, 301

Cane bottom chairs, to clean, 154
Canker, 212

in fowls, 113

Canned grapes, 302

peaches, 302

Canning fruit,2

Cantharadies, antidote for, 16
cerate of, 67

tincture of, 85

Canvas, to prepare for oil painting, 274',
water-proof, 454
Caoutchouc blacking, 199

for printers’ rollers, 454
—— varnish, 266

Capons, 113

Caramel, chocolate, 49

Carat,

Caraway, cordial, 373

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

524

Carbolic acid, 16
—- for laundrying, 337
—- soap, 315
Carbonic acid, 454
Carbonate of magnesia, 66
Carbonated drink, 370
Carbon ink, 201
Carbuncle, 212
, Carlsbad water, 86
Carmine, 66, 250
in ,120 ,
Carminative, Dalby’ s, 66
Carnation lip salve, 74
Carpeting, cheap, 113
Carpets, to choose, 153
— to clean, 154
to lay, 153
—— moths 1n, 175
—— to prevent moths 1n, 154
__... to remove grease from, 154
(stair), to make last, 153
—— to sweep, 153
Carpet warp, coloring for, 343
Carrots, to cook, 4
—to cultivate, 125
Cart horse, to select, 103
Case hardening, 407
Case springs for watches, 407
Cashmere shawls, to clean {he white
middle of, 356
Casks (water), to clean, 154
Cassia, ml of, 76
Cast-iron cement,
to soften for 6drilling, 407
to weld, 407
Casting delicate objects, 406
metals, 406
in bread paste, 455
, glue, 455
1n plaster, 454 '
in sulphur, 454
—in wax, 455
Castings, soldering, 407
Castration, 98
Castor oil bean, to grow, 121
mechanical uses of, 454
pomade,
Cast-steel, burnt, 407
English, 407
to harden, 42
and iron, edge tools irom, 407
Cat, care of, 167
Cats catchm g chickens, to cure, 124
Cataplasm, Pradier’ s, 66
Cataract 1n horses, 97
Catarrh, 213
in cattle, 87
in fowls, 113
———- in horses, 97
—— in sheep, 94
—- sun 83
Caterpillars, to destroy, 174
Cathartic bitters, 65
pill, 78
—— syrup p, 66
Catsup, currant, 298
mushroom, 56
oyster, 306
tomatoe, 61, 311
age of, 87
breachy, 87
black leg in, 88
catarrh in, 87
care of, 88
choked, 88
— feeding, 88
film on eyes of, 88
foot and mouth disease 111, 88
hoof rot in, 89
hoven or bloat m, 89
lice on, 89
mange in, 89
plague, 89
snake bitten, 89
sore mouth 1n, 89
warts on, 89
wens on, 89
Cattle’ s horns, sawing 03', 89
Cauliflower, to boil, 49
—-— in milk, 49
Cauliflowers, to keep, 297
-—— to grow, 124

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

111,

 

 

_—

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cattle,

 

 

 

INDEX.

Caustic for corns, 325
mode of us1ng, 213

 

 

 

paste, 66

Velpeau’s black, 67

Cedar hedge, 135

Celery, to cultivate, 125

to keep, 297

Cellar floors, 27

vegetable, 126

Cellars, to keep from freezing, 26,125
Cement for acquaria, 32

alabaster, 32

applying, 32

arch1tectural, 32

for attaching metal to glass, 33
for attaching brass work to
Imps, 33

for brick walls, 33

for broken marble, 33
Botany Bay, 32

building, 32

cast.iron, 36

for chimneys, 35

Chinese, 36

for china and glass, 33

for chemical glasses, 33
for cisterns, 345

colored, 36, 45

for covering the fronts of
houses, 33

copper smiths, 34

for cloth or belting, 34

for crockery, metals and wood,

 

 

 

3
cutlers, 34
curd, 36
diamond, 36

egg,_37 ,

elastic collod1on, 36

electrical and chemical: 37

engineers, 34

English Roman, 36

entomologists, 36

for fastening Chamois and other

leather to iron or steel, 34

for fastening to metals, 34

for fastening rubber to wood

and metals, 34

fire-proof, 38

for floors, 34

French, 37

for gas fitters, 34

for gas retorts, 34

German, 37

glass grinders, 37

glycerine, 37

for gutters and leaky places, 34
ard, 37

hydraulic, 37

Hamelin’s, 37

india rubber, 37

Iron, 34, 37

iron rust, 37

Japanese, 37

kourie, 38

for leather, 35

for leather belting, 35

for leather and cloth, 35

for leather straps, 455

liquid, 38

microscopic, 38

for mother of pearl, 35

Opticians, 38

parabolic, 38

for patent fusel, 35

plumbers, 38

preventing leaks about chim-

neys, 35

red, 38

rice flour, 38

Roman, 38

rubber, 455

schroicao, 38

seal engravers, 38

for steam pipes, 35

for stone, 36

for stoves, 36

for stopping cracks in jars, 35

for tile roofs, 36

water, 32, 38

water-proof, 38

Cephalic snuff. 68, 83

lllllllllll ll-lllllllllllllllllllllllllll ll HIHHHI Ill llllllllllll HI!

 

 

 

Cerate of acetate of lead, 67

camphor, 67

of cantharidies, 67

of lead, 7

Chaffinches, 177

Chafing, remedy for, 213

Chairs, 455

(cane bottom), to clean, :54

Chalk, prepared, 455

for calves, 91

Chamomile, 67, 79

Champagne, American, 370

British, 370

———- Burgandy, 3799

cider, 37o

cur), 37°

sham,3 307

Chapped hands, 33o
lips, 33o

Charcoal dentrifice, 69

in the dairy, 129

making, 455

1n milk room, 140

prepared, 67

poultice, 81

for turkeys, 117

of wood, 67

Charlotte de Riisse, 49

Charms, fish, 183

Cheese, Dutch, 127

French, 126

to make, 126

Neufchatel, 127

plum, 309

Chemical soap, 315

Chemistry of tanning, 194

Cherry brandy, 367

bounce, 371

cheese, 291

Jam, 297

marmalade, 297

pectoral, Ayer’s, 67

stain, 263

Cherries, to cultivate, 127,

to preserve, 297

Chestnut color, 250

Chicken, boneless, 49

broth, 49

cholera, 113

-——— to fricassee, 49

$0 fry, 49

Jelly, 54

panada, 58

pot pie, 49

—— pox, 233

scratching, 113

Chickens, management of,113

—— cat catching, 125

Chilblains, 213

liniment, 74

lotion for, 75

Children, care of, 213

to protect from burning, 15.

Children’ s diseases, 218

Chimneys, to build, 26, 456

cement to prevent leaks, 35

on fire, 14

(glass), cracking, 156

————- leaks around, 154

—— salt 1n, 456

smoking, 26

.———- (lamp), to clean, 1

(lamp), to prevent breaking,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

159
China cement, 33
—— composition of, 457
to mend, 154
to Pack. 473
Chinaware, to make, 456, 499
Chinese cement, 3
depilatory, 69
gongs, 423
ink, 201
—— jam, 150
Chintz, to wash, 343
Chloral, hydrate of, 67
Chlorine, 457
Chloroform, 67
death from, 214
Chlorodyne, T. Collis Brown's, 67
Chlorinated soap, 316
Chocolate blanc-mange, 49

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chocolate caramels, 49
.— cream candy, 48
creams, 49

paste cake, 47
Choked cattle, to reiieve, 88
Cholagogue, Indian, 67
Cholera, 21

chic en, 113
— morbus, 214
tincture, 85
Chowder, fish, 52
——-—- Websters , 49
Chrome orange dye, 343
Chromos, to clean, 457
Chutney, Bengal, 297
sauce, 60

Cider, boiling, 371

to can, 372
——-- champagne, 372
—-—— cherry, 372
—— to clear, 371
—— Devonsh1re, 372
-———— French, 372
—-- to make, 371

to preserve and keepsweet, 372
(sour), to sweeten, 373
vinegar, 380
Western, 373
wine, 385
Cinnamon brown dye, 344
cake, 47
cordial, 373
soap, 316
Circassian cream, 68
Cistem, filtering, 457
Cistems, cement for, 34
Citric acid, 63

Citron, candied, 297
cordial, 374

to preserve, 297
soap, 316
British, 373

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Claret,

 

CUP, 373

to judge of, 458

Clap, 225

Clay, modelling 1n, 247
Cleaning floors, 155

guns, 1 6

horses, 104, 156‘
Clicking in horses, 98
Clinkers, 154

Clocks, to clean, 407

to repair, 417

for 25¢, 458

Cloth, to clean and scour, 345
-—- Fullcr's purifier for, 345
- to raise the nap on, 345
Clothes (black), to clean, 345, 458
(black), to renovate when fad-
ed. 345

to brush, 333

grease in, 346

to renovate, 333

to make water-proof, 333
Clothing, 15

hints about, 333

moth in, 175
water-tight, 334

Clove, cordial, 374

Clover, to cure, 127
management of, 134
Coachmakers, hints to, 459
varnish, 267

Coal, eFfect of exposure on, 459
fire, to make, 459

gas, sulphur in, 67

oil for baldness, 324
Coat, to clean, 346

collars, to clean, 346
Coating for brick walls, 25
Cobalt, antidote for, 16

Coca pills 49 2

Cockroaches, to destroy, 174
Cocoa, to make, 49

shells, 49

Cocoanut pic, 49

Codfish balls, 50

picked up, so

Codling moths, to trap, 14o
Cognac brandy, 367

Coffee, essence of, 298

to make, 50

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

,__._

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INDEX.

Coffee, substitutes for, 50
brown dye, 344
Coins, to take 1mpression from, 408
Cold, to avoid catching, 214
bath, 208

cream, 324

to cure, 214

feet, 222

in fowls, 113

in the head, 215

to put back, 214

slaw, 46

soap, 316

Colds, 216

Colic, bilious, 214

in horses, 97

lead, 215

wind, 215

Collar, to fit, 98

Collodion cement, 36

to iodize, 275
photographic, 275
—— process, 274
Collodio-albumen process, 275
Collops, minced, 50

Cologne water, 86

Coloring butter, 123

furs, 192

for liquors, 373

for metals, 430
photographs, 286
skins, 192

for soup, 6o

Colorless varn1sh, 267

Color, to restore, 154

Colors, druggists’, 68

to mix, 251

for painting on glass, 389
for stainmg glass, 396
to use, 251

Colts, callus on, 99

care and management of, 98
to prevent jumping,
Comfrey, 68 99
Complexion and colors, 324
kalydor for, 73

to improve, 324

to preserve, 324
—— wash for, 324
Composition for roofs, 29
Concrete for door steps, 26
(gravel) for houses, 27
Condensed milk, 305
Condimental food, 92
Condition powders, 81, 107
Cone work, 243

Congestive fever, 223
Congress water, 86
Conservatory, to make, 474
Constipation, 215

see charcoal of wood, 67
Consumption, 215

in birds, 167

syrup for, 84
Cookies, 50

Cooking, average loss by, so
food for stock, 92
utensils, 5o

Cooling drinks, 373

Copaiba mixture, 75

Copal, to dissolve, 251, 252
lacquer, 252

varnish, 267

Copper, to clean, 409

to coat with zinc, 409
to deposit upon cast-iron, 408
——' in pickles, 30
—plate printers ink, 201
powder, 408

—— to silver, 408

——- solution for battery, 408
test for, 430

—— to tin, 4o , 4

to weld, 446 09

to whiten, 408
Coppersmiths' cement, 34
Copyingp ink, 201

paper 490
Copyright, law of, 460

Coral, artificial, 46o

baskets, 46o

Cordial, anisette, 373

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

llllll

 

525,

Cordial, blackberry, 373
caraway, 373
cinnamon, 373
citron, 374
clove, 374
coriander, 374
curacoa, 374'

inger, a74

‘odfrey s, 68
gout, 68
strawberry, 374
Corks for binding, 367
Corn bread, 45
broom, 128
cake, 47
cobs as fuel, 128
cribs, rat-proof, 128
to cultivate, 127
(green), to dry, 298
to have green the year round,
2 8
—- new planted, 128
to pickle, 298
plaster. 79, 325
seed, 145
stacks, mice in, 128
starch blame-mange, 50
solvent, 325
to cure, 215, 324, 325
in horses, 98
soft, 215
Corned beef, 43
Coriander seed,3
Corrosive sublimiie, antidote for, 16
Court plaster, 68
— substitute for, 461
Cosmetic soap, 316
Costiveness, 215
in birds, 167
Cotton, to bleach, 342
to cultivate, 128
in linen, 460
to remove mildew from, 346
seed for stock, 92
—-——for staunchm g hemotage, 68
Cough ball for horses, 96
candy, 68
compound, 68
in horses, 99
lemon for, 461
—— lozenge, 75
— mixture, 75
pills, 79
syrup, 84
Coughs, 216
and colds, see horehound, 73
Counterfeit money, to detect, 461
Counterpains, to wash, 346
Cow pox, 233
Cows, abortion 1n, 89
bloody milk 1n, 90
care of, 89
(dairy), to select, 90
farrow, .-9° -
garget in, 90
hard milking,
to increase mil
kicking, 90
(old), when to kill, 91
rheumatism 1n, 90
milking, 91
milk fever 1n, 91
self-sucking, 91
swelled bags 1n, 9:
teats, warts on, 91
Cowslip vinegar, 380
Cracked hoof-quarter, 102
Crackers, wheat flour, 50
Cracking 1n wood, 31
Cramp, 13
Cranberry sauce, 50
Cranberries, to cultivate, 129
Crape, stain on, 34 46
to renew when old, 346
Crayon colors, to fix, 461
awing, 276
Crayons, to make, 274, 461
Creaking doors, 115
Cream, apple, 41
churning, 123
chocolate, 49
circassian, 68

 

 

 

 

 

 

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llll

 

 

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om: 9‘1

IHHHIHI

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

526

Cream, clotted, 127
-——— cold, 68, 324
crystalline, 68
furniture, 254
ice, 50
Italian, 54
nectar, 374

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

raspberry ice, 54
of roses, 68
shaving, 68
—-— soda, 374
strawberry ice, 54
Cribbing, 99

Crickets, to destroy, 174
Crimson dye, 346
Crockery cement, 33
ware, to mend, 154
Croup in fowls, 113
Crown window glass, 389
Crucibles, 461

Crullers, 51

Crystal varnish, 267
Cucumber salad, 51
Cucumbers, to green, 298
to grow, 129, 139
to pickle, 298, 307
Curacoa, cordial, 374
Curcuho, 129

Curd cement, 6

Curing green ides, 186
skins, 193
Curling the hair, 327
Curls, false, 325

Currant catchup, 298

to dry with sugar, 298
ice water, 374
Jam. 303

jelly, 2 8
marmaiade, 304
syrup, 298
vinegar, 380
wine, 385

worm, 150
Currants, to preserve, 298
Curried beef, 43

Curriers size, 195

paste, 195
skirting, 195
Curtains, to clean, 346
window, 155
Custard, apple, 41
baked, 51

boiled, 51

fritters, 51
Cutlers cement, 34

Cuts, 13

Cutting glass, 390
timber, 147
Cuttle fish dentifrice, 69
Cut-worm, to destroy, 150

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.___

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dairy, charcoal in, 69

cows, to select, 69

Damp walls, 163

Damson wine, 385

Dandelion, 68

Dandruff, 325

Dark place, to illuminate, 461

—— woods, to imitate, 253

Dead animals, to convert into manure,

 

137
animals, to preserve, 461
fall trap, 1 7
Deadly night sha e, antidote for, 16
Deafness, 216
temporary, 217
Death, signs of, 217 '
Debility, see poplar bark, 65
Decalcomanie, 243
Decay in wood, 31
Decline in birds, 167
Deer skins, to dress, 179
— oil dressing, 179
—— to prepare for gloves, 180
Delerium tremens, 217
Depilatory, Chinese, 69
———-—— pfste, 69
aynor s,
Depilatories, 69

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INDEX.

Dentifrice, 68
camphorated, 69
Cartwright’s, 69
charcoal, 69
myrrh, 69
Developers, 275
concentrated iron, 276
pyrogallic acid, 276
Diabetes, 217
Diamond cement, 36
paste resembling, 492
imitation, 409
Diaphanie, 244
Diarrhea, 217
in birds, 167
tincture, 85
Digestive pills, 79
Dinner ill, 79
Din of s ops, 409
Dirt in eye, 14
Diseases of children, 218
Dishes, how to wash, 155
Dish for dishwashing, 155
Disinfectant, 217
Distemper, 99
in dogs, 171
Diptheria, 218
Diuretic balls for horscs, 95
drops, 69
Dizziness, 219
Docks, to eradicate, 130
Dog skins, to tan, 461
Dogs, best bed for, 170
distemper in, 17!
eating eggs, 17o
feeding, 169
fleas on, 171
hydrophobia in, 170
to keep healthy, 169
killing sheep, 94
management of, 169
mange m, 171
pointer, 18o
(puppy), to choose, 17o
(teaching), to go errands, 170
to tell the age of, 170
to wash, 17o
worms in, 171 ,
Drab dye, 347
Draining, 130
land, 482
Drawing, crayon, 276
on glass. 390, 473
ink, 201
monochromatic, 247
. (pencil), to preserve, 276
Drawmgs, to copy, 277
Dress goods, to remove ink from, 158
Dresses, to preserve color of, 346
to restore when faded, 346
uninflammable, 334
Dressing beaver skins, 176
deer skins, 179
furs, 192
—— the hair, 327
leather, 187
for photographs, 286
skins, 192 ‘
Drinking in summer, 21
Drooping wings of chickens, 114
Drops, diuretic, 69
Dutch, 69
—— imperial, 69
of life, Welford’s, 69
pectoral, 69
Drowned persons, to raise, 462
Drowning (the), to afford help to, 14
(thes, to restore, 13
Druggists window colors, 83
Drunkards, to reform, 219
Drunkenness, 219
——-— apparent death from, 14
—— remedy for, 82
Dryer, Japan. 252
for painting, 25%
Drying fruit, 301

erbs, 302
oil, 2152, 258
(quic ). paint. 253
Ducks, to fatten, 114 4
(wild), to roast, 63
Dumplings, suet, 61

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

llllllllHl

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

‘l

 

Dutch cheese, 127

Dwellings, damp, 46a

Dyeing, art of, 347

buckskin, 180

furs, 192

Morrocco, 18o

—— sheep leather, 18o
skins, 192

Dyes, all colors, 338 to 362

or. the hair, 72, 328
fixxrg, 347

for ivory, 480
Dysentery, 219

see comfrey, 68
specific for, 83

see wild cherry barks, 65
Dyspepsia, 220

see golden seal root, 82

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ear-ache, 22o

insects in, 220
foreign bodies in, 220
Earth clcset, 463
Earthenware, to temper, 155
Earthin up potatoes, 143
Eau de otot, 69

de bouquet, 69

de cypre, 69

de cythere, 492
—- pour le dent, 69

de millfleur, 69

de rosicrs, 69

de Violette, 7o
Ebony, to imitate, 465

stain, 263

Edge varnish, zoo
Efl'ervescing fruit drinks,*374
Egg cement, 37

eating dogs, :70
eating hens, 114
mulled, 56

omelette, 51

—— producers, best, 114
Eggs, broiled, 51

to 301m, 465

to , 2 '
hardryboifiegd, 51

of Pharaoh’s serpents, 46.!
pickling, 299

to poilch, 51

porta e, 2

to preserve,”299, 4“
sex of, 114

soft boiled, 51

to test, 51

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HI

 

 

 

 

 

 

wine, 385
Elderflowers, extract of, 71
Electrical cement, 37
battery, 398
Electro-gilding, 409 V
magnetic liniment, 74
silvering, 409

lating, 411
p——- gold solution for, 412
—— silver solution for, 412
plated goods, tarnish on, 412
Electrotyping, 412, 413

hat 5 or, 414

moulds for, 414, 415
plaster casts, 416
solders for, 416
Electrotype plates, to coat with iron,

 

 

 

l l

 

 

 

 

 

 

41

Elixer for the teeth, 70
odontaligic, 7o
——-- of roses, 70

of yrophosphate of iron anu
bark, 7o
Embalming, 465
Embroidery, 248

to clean, 347
Emery wheels, 416 .
Emetic, see chamomile, 67
Emissions, involuntary, 23¢
Emmenagogue pills, 79
Emulsin an jasmin, 316

a la Violette, 316

 

 

 

 

Enameling photographs, 286
——-- wood wor , 467
Enameled cloth, 458
— writing surfaces, 418
Enamels, 416 to 418, 466, 467
English bar soap, 3i6
Engineers cement, 34
Engraving in alto-relievo, 469
by photoenphy. 277
Engraviugs, to'c ean, 277, 469
to preserve, 277
to transfer on glass, 390
_ Enlargement of brain, 210
Entomologists' cement, 36
Epilepsy, 220
Erasive soap, 316
Ergot, 7o

 

 

 

 

 

Esprit de bouquet, 7!
Essence of bitter almonds, 7o
lavender, 7o

musk, 7o

—- neroli, 70

----c peppermint, 7o
-—— rondelette, 7o

 

 

roses, 70

for smelling bottles, 7:
violets, 7o

verbena, 7t

Etching, 278, 419

on glass, 390

on ivo , 41

—- shells,r2¥48 9
varnish, 292

Ether, acetic; 7r
amylo-acetic, 375
amlitic, 374

—— butric, 374
pelagonic, 375

to wash, 469

Everton tafee, 48

Exchequer ink, 20:
Excoriation, 22x

Explosion, boiler, 400
Extract of buchu, 7r
elderflowers, 7t
opium, 7i

Peppy, 7r
sarsaparilla, 71
senna, 7i

vanilla, 7r

Extracts, to make, 7:

Eye (black), to treat, 22:
cinders in, 14

-- dirt in, i4

— of horse, inflammation of, 99
(moon), in horses, 106
sight, to preserve, 221
stye in, 221

water, 86

-——-——- weak or sore, 22:
Eyes of horses, to test, 103
(sore), to cure, 469
Eyelashes, to blacken, 326

to lengthen, 325 w;-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HI

 

 

 

 

 

Face, blotched, 324

eruptions on, 325

Faded ink, to restore, 202
photographs, 278

Fading of calicoes, 153

Fainting, 14, 222

Farcy, 99

Farmers, sleep for, 130

trap, 197

Farm impliments, care of, 135
life, to attach boys to, 12:
—— to make attractive, 130
Farming, rules for success in, 130
Farrow cows, go .
Fat for soap making, 316
Fattening poor horses, :05
-——-~ poultry, 114

Feathers, to clean, 155, 348

t9 dye. 347

pillows, 469

Febrifuge for fevers, 7:

*— tea, 71

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INDEX.

Febrifuge, wine, 7:

Feeding and care of cattle, 88
dogs, :69

horses on the road, 104
Feet, blistered, 222

care of, 222

. cold, 222 .

—— —-- at bed tune, 222
frosted, 222

tender, 222

— (horses), brittle, 100
—— — care of, 100
—— —— contracted, too
— to prevent snow balling,
IOO

Felon, cures for, 222

salve for, 783

Fence posts, preservation of, 131
Ferns, to raise from seed, 469
Fever and ague, 222, 470

balls for horses, 96
bilious remittent, 223
congestive, 223
febrifuge for, 71

hay, 223

scarlet, 224

typhoid, 224

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fig candy, 48

Figure four trap, 197

Files, 419

to clean, 420

to recut, 419

Film on eyes of cattle, 88
Filter, water, 164

Filtering powder, 8:

cistern, 457

Fining powder, 375

Fireboard of paper flowers, 155
Fire annihilator, 470

in a chimney, 14
-———- clothing on, 15

—— to escape from, 15
kindlings, 158, 470
—— proof linen, r

—— wash for shingles, 3o
-—-—-— —— paint, 253
Fireworks, 47o,

Fires, colored, 470

of kerosine, to extinguish, 155
Fish, to boil, 52

to choose, 52

chowder, 52

——-—-— charms, 183

—— culture, 180

—- (gold), to breed, :7:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

—— care of, 171

(salt), to freshen, 52

sauce, 52

skinning and mounting, 183
tail gas burner, 472

Fishing with artificial fly, 185
———--- baits for, 182

——-—-—--— Chinese art of, :82

floats for, 18:

hooks for, 181

lines for, 181

with natural fly, 185
without nets, lines, spears, etc.

 

 

 

WI

183

reels for, 182

rods for,18i:

istula 10!

in horses, :07

Fitts, 225

Fixing hath, 273 .

Flannel, to whiten when yellow, 348
(new), to wash, 348
Flatulancy, see carminative lozenges,

 

 

vi;

 

 

7S .
Fleas, to get rid of, 174
Fleshworms, 326
Flexible varnish, 267
Flies on horses, 10:
for fishing, 183
-—-—— injuring picture frames, 16!
Flint glass, 390
Floatin soa , 3:6
Floats cr fis ing, 18::
Floors, basement, 27
cellar, 2
cement or, 34

 

 

 

 

52?

Floors, mopping and cleaning, 155
to oil, 26

to remove stains from, 155
——-— to scour, 155

soluble glass for, 27

stain for, 264

Florida water, 86

Flour (musty), to restore, 52
patent, 47:

 

 

 

 

 

to test, 52
Flowers from bulbous roots, 471
essential oil of, 75
odor of, 75, 78
painting, 284
paper, 247
to preserve, 299, 300
-——-—- to restore, 299
In Winter, 47!
Fluid, blue writing, 202
Bogle's hyperion, 72
extract of vanilla, 7:
German rheumatic, 7x
writing, 202
Flux for enamels, 466
Fly (house), to destro , 174
nature and ha its of, 174
paper, 374
on turnips, 131
Foetid breath, 2i:
Food for babies, 225
for horses, :04
for mocking birds, 171
—— for parrots, 172
for stock, 91
Fool’s parsley, antidote for, 16
Foot disease in cattle, 88
(horses), canker of, 10:
pumice, Ior
— sand crack in, 101
rot in sheep, 94
Fossils, to preserve, 47!
Founder, 10:
Fowls, to boil, 52
choice of, 52
to cook when old, 52
old, 1:5
to roast, 52
sauce for, 53
stewed with onions, 53
Foxes, to trap, 184
Foxglove, antidote for, 16
Fracture in horses, 101
Frames ( gilt), to enovate, 156
to prevent flies sailing, I56
Frangipannie soap, 32
Freckle lotion, 74
Freckles, 236, 326
Freezing in cellars, 26, 125
—— preparation, 372
French cement, 37
polish, 26:
white, 71
Fresco painting, 253
Fresh water acquarium, 166
F rit, to make, 390
Fritters, apple, 4:
tomatoe, 6x
Frost-bite, 14
Frost in fruit, 52
in vegetables, 52
Frosted feet, 222
Frosting glass, 253
Fruit, candying, 3oz
candy, 48
cake, 52
-— drying, 3o:
— (dried), to keep from worms,

ox

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

eeping, 300, 301
Sun printing on, r 1
to take frost out 0?, 52
trees, blight in, 121
———- overbearing, 131
— to protect from rabbits,132
F ryin , 52
Fuller 5 earth soap, 316
F umigating paper, 77
Fungi, to preserve, 243
Furnaces, smoke in, 47:
Furnishing a house, 157
Furniture, care of, 156
cream, 254

HH

 

 

 

528

Furniture, to take bruises out of, 156
0i , 254

paste, 254

varnish, 471

Furs, to clean, 184

coloring and dyeing, 192
dressing, 192

home made, 185

moths in, 175

to preserve from moths, 185
to select, 184

to tan, 192

 

 

 

 

 

——
_—

 

Gad fly on shee ,
Galled back, 103 94
Gallein, 472
Gall soap, 317
Galvanic battery, 399
Galvanizing iron, 420, 426
Gape; in chickens, 115
Gardening, window, 132
Garden refuse as manure, 138
spiders, to destroy, 132
Garget in cows, 90
Gargle for domestic use, 72
mucilaginous, 72
to promote supperation, 72
for throat, 72
Garlic, 132
Garments, to cut and make, 334
to renew, 33
Gas burners, 472
fitters’ cement, 3
(hydrogen), to produce, 73
laughing, 472
light pictures, 244
- meter, to read, 472
retorts, cement for, 34
taps, leakage of, 472
tests for impurities, 472
waste of, 472
Gearing, speed of, 473
Geese, to choose, 53
to manage, 115
Geizzler’s black ink, 202
Gems, 53
Geraniums in winter, 473
German cement, 37
blacking, 199

aste, 77
p for birds, 168
Gherkins, pickled, 302
Gilding, 254, 420
burnished, 254
Grecian, 42o

--- glass, 254, 39°
—— to improve, 254
—— leather, 187, 482
liquid, 254
out doors, 254
picture frames, 420
polished metals, 420
porcelain, 390
sizing for, 254
to test, 420
without a battery, 432
Gilders’ glue, 254, 473
Gilt frames, to revive, 156
_ ornaments, to clean, 420
Gm, 375 ,
cordial. 375
En lish, 375
Ho land, 375

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

..—,.—

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

l I

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

candy, 48

cordial, 374

lozenge, 48, 75

per). 375

snaps, 53

5 ice, 53

tincture of, 473

_ wine, 385

Glanders, 102

Glass, boreing holes in, 389 _
to break in any required way,

 

 

 

3 9
cement, 33
-—— chimneys, 156

 

 

flVDEX.

Glass or china, to pack, 393, 473
cleaning, 156

for photographs, 278

colors for painting upon, 389

to cut, 390

drawing on, 390

etching on, 278, 390

to frost, 253

gilding on, 254

globes, to clean, 156

to marble, 392

—- to silver, 420

green phial, 391

to grind, 393

grinders' cement, 37

for looking-glass plates, 391

manufacture of, 391

to platinize, 473

pigments for staining, 495

to polish, 484

0r porcelain, to paint, 393

to stain, 393

silvering, 394

soluble, 3 4, 396

~— for oors, 27

to stain, 396

stopple, to loosen, 163, 473

Window, 391, 397

to write or draw on, 473

Glassware, to mend, 154 -

(new), to season, 156

Glaze varnish, 267

Glazing, 254

for earthenware, 473, 474

Gleet, 225

Gloves, to color, 337

to dye, 348

(kid), to clean, 348

(leather), to clean, 349

—— perfume for, 78

Glue cement, 38

flexible, 38

gflders, 254,. 473

how to use it, 38

isinglass, 48o

liquid, 3

to manugmture, 38

marine, 39

mouth, 39

parchment, 39

portable, 39

Spaulding’s, 39

water-proof, 39

Glycerine balsam, 64

———- Cement, 37

nature and use of, 72

ointment, 76

Glyconine for broken surfaces, 72

Godfrey's cordial, 68

Gold amalgam, 421

articles, polishing powder for,

421

bronze, 404

beaters’ skin, 474

4 carats, 421

 

 

 

 

 

llllllllllllllllllllllll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

llll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12 421
16 “ 421
18 “ 421

to clean, 421

coin, to make, 421
coloring, 421
counterfeit, 421
Dutch, 422

to enamel, 422

fish, to breed, 171

care of, 171
French, 422

to gild upon silver, 422
green, 422

to heighten color of, 423
imitation, 422

ink. 202

lacquer, 422

-—— for tin. 442

leaf, to prevent adhesion of,
255 .

mosaic, 422

oreide, 422

plating solution, 422
powder, 422

—— for bronzing, 422
to refine, 423

 

llllll lllllllllllllllllllllll

 

Gold, to separate from gilt copper or

Silver, 422

and silver, to separate, 423

Size, 263

solder, 423

thread root, 82

test f0; 423

varnis , 26 ,

Golden hair, 328 7 443

seal root, 82

Gongs, Chinese, 423

Gonorrhoea, 225

Goose, boiled, 53

roast, 53 -

Goosberry bushes, mildew on, 134
- jam. 303

marmalade, 304

vinegar, 381

wine, 385

Gopher trap, 185

Gophers, to trap, 185

Goulard water, 86

Goulards pouliice, 81

Gout, 225

Cordial, 68

mixture, 75

remedy for, 82

tincture, 85

Guinea fowl, 116

Gun cotton, 475

powder, 475

Guttapercha, 475

Grafting, 133

grapes, I33

India rubber 133

(root), apple trees, 153

wax, 132

Graham bread, 44

Graining, 255

black walnut, 255

mahogany, 255

maple, 255

-—— oak, 255

rose wood, 256

to wash, 156

Grain side blacking, 199

Grape catsup, 302

jelly, 302

wine, 385

Grapes, canned, 302

to cultivate, 133

(green), to preserve, 301

—— to keep, 301

Grasses, to crystallize, 244

Grass in paved yards, 474

on steep banks, 120

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

pills for, 79

—— see imperial drops, 69

Gravers, to temper, 409

Gravy, brown, 53

Gray hair, 328

Grease on books, 151

in horses, 102

killing, 257

in marble, 160

topresene, 317
emove, 349

from carpets, 154

—— from stone, 156

spots, balls for, 64

-— on linen, 337

—— to remove, 163

—— in silk, 163

Greasing wagons, 149

Grecian painting, 245

Gregory’s ink, 202

Green bottle glass, 391

bronze, 405

chrome, 256

com cakes, 53

dye. 349

enamel, 466

houses, ants in, 120

————- — to make, 475

ink, 202

ointment, 76

peas, to stew, 53

~— ghial glass, 391

aris, 256

paints, 256

 

 

 

 

 

llllll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Green udding, 53
.._.—pScheele's, 256

—— for walls, 257

.._——- window glass, 39!
Griddle cakes, 47

Grinding tools, 31

sass, 393 .
Grindstones, artrficral, 475
use of. 475

Ground moles, to destroy, 189
Grub, remedy for, 134

Gruel water, 53

Guinea pig, 171

Gumbo soup, 60

Gum, chewing, 72

—— elastic varnish, 267
Gums, wash for, 326, 332
Gun barrels, browning for, 42
bursting, 185

to choose, 186

to clean, 186

to use effectively, 186
metal, 424

scattering, 186

 

 

 

 

HII

Haddock, to fry, 53

Hair, art of brushing, 327
bandoline for, 327
brushes, to clean, 327
of children, 327

to clean, 327

to Curl, 327

dressing for, 328

dye pomade, 80
dyes, 72, 328

——- lead in, 72
gray. 328, 329
golden, 328

on horses, loss of, 102
injuring bonnets, 151
invigorator, 72
katharion for, 73

loss of, 329

to manage, 326

to restore, 329
restorative, 72
saponaceous wash for, 73
spring, of watches, 424
to stiffen, 65
superfluous, 329
.—-— wash, rosemary, 73
washes, 329

Halter pulling, 102
Hamelin’s cement, 37

Hams, to cure, 302

to keep, 302

mutton, 302

Handles (knife), to fasten, 158
Hands, to beautify, 33o
blistering of, 329 '

 

 

lllllllllll

l l

I
I

HHIH

 

 

 

 

 

care of, 32
—-— c ped. 5, 33°
—— ess of, 330

to remove stains from, 330
to soften, 330
H to gvhiten, 33%

anging askets, 47 .
Hard soap, 317 ‘4'
water, to soften, 63
Hardening cast-steel, 424
Harlem oil, 76
Harness blacking, 199
care of, 102
varnish, 475
Harps, eolian, 476
Harrowing, 144
Hartshorn jelly, 303
Harvesting barley, 120
Hats, care of, 337
to dye, 349
Panama, 476
Hawk trap, 186
Hay (clover), to manage, 134
to cook for stock, 92
cutting and curing, 134
fever, 225
—— racks for sheep, 94
stacks, to ventilate, 134
I'Ieadachel,l 226
— Pl 5’ 79
Head, scurf in, 330

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INDEX.

Heart-burn, 226 . .
— see carmmative lozenges,

 

75
Heart, palpitation of, 226
Health, rules for preserving, 225
Heaves, 12
Hedges, barbary, 134
cedar, 135
to plant, 134
Heighth, relative, 502
Hellebore, antidote for, 16
Hemlock, antidote for, 16
poultice, 81
Hemorrhage, see cotton for staunch-
ing, 68
uterine, 227
Henbane, antidote for, 16
Herbs, to dry, 302
Hen manure, 138 .
roosts, to destroy vermin on,

 

 

 

 

 

11

Hens, to make lay, 116

to prevent setting, 116
to set, 116

Hiccough, 227

Hide-bound horses, 102
Hides (green), to cure, 186
to take off, 186

Hive for bees, to make, 21
Syrun 84

Hives, changing, 22
position of, 22
Hoarseness, 216, 227
Hoffman’s anodyne, 64
Holes in iron, to mend, 425
Holloway’s ointment, 76
pills, 79

Hollow horn, 92 7
Honey, artifictal, 476
balsam, 64

liquid, 476
preservation of, 302
soap, 317

vinegar, 380

water,

Hoof-bound horses, 102

of horses, to dress, 99
ointment, 107
quarter, cracked, 102
rot in cattle, 89
Hooks, fishing, 182

Hop beer, 365

Hops, to choose, 54, 375
Horehound, 73

Horn, to color, 478

in imitation of tortoise shell, 478
manufacture of, 476
ail in cattle, 92
Horns of cattle, 89

Horse, big head in, 96

big leg in, 96

big shoulder in, 96
botts in, 97

breaking down, 97

to break of pawing, 478
castration of, 98
cataract in, 97
catarrh in, 97

colic in, 98

corns in, 98

cough in, 96, 99
collars, to fit, 98
wooden, 478
dealers, tricks of, 112
feeding on road, 104
fever in, 6

fulness of9 blood in, 97
(good), points of, 103
(good cart), points of, 103
how to ride, 108
inflammation of eye, 99
loose bowels in, 97
power, to ascertain, 425
radish, 73

— to grow, 135
—- to keep, 303
—— vinegar, 380
sure breasts in, 7 .
stables, to pur' y, 105
worms in, 96

Horses, age of by the teeth, 103
baulky, 96

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A

 

 

 

 

 

llllllllllllllllllllllllll

 

 

 

 

529

Horses, blanketing, 105
care 0 , 103
cleaning, 104
eyes, to test, 103
feet, brittleness of, 100
— care of, 100
—— contracted, 100
—— to prevent snow balling,
100
flies on, 101
food for, 104
foot, canker of. 101
—— sand crack in, 101
founder in, 101
fracture in, 101;
galled back in, 101
to judge and select, 103
(poor), to fatten, 105
pumice foot in, 101
runaway, 108
to shoe, 108
stables for, 105
in stables on fire, 15
to tame and train, 110
water for, 104
when ,unsound, 104
Hose (woolen), to wash, 349
Hot—bed, 135, 209
Hotch-potch, 53
Household weights and measures, 164
House, to choose in purchasing. 157
— — renting, 157
-—-—— cleaning, 156
' (ice), extemporaneous, 157
plants, 143
—— to keep without fire, 157
Houses, cements for covering fronts
0, 33
— for roofs of, 35
choice of color for, 27
gravel concrete for, 27
hints on building, 24
to keep cool in hot weather, 478;
—— when to paint, 27
Hungary water, 86
Hyacinth culture, 135
Hydrate of chloral, 67
Hydraulic cement, 37
Hydrogen gas, to produce, 73
Hydrophobia, see bites, 16
in dogs, 170

 

 

lllllllllllllll lllll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ice, camphor, 73

chest, 479

cream, 50

-—-—- raspberry. 54

_ strawberry, 54

house, to build, 479

— extemporaneous, 157‘

to gather, 479

lemon water, 54

to preserve, 479

Iceing for cake, 47

Impliments, care of, 135

Impermeable varnish, 267

Incense, 73

Incorrodible ink, 202

Indelible ink, 203

for type, 203

pencils, 494

Indestructible ink, 203

India chologogue, 67

ink, 203

— to select, 203

—-—~ 9ubstitute for, 203

—— or ordinary writin , 20

rubber, artificial, 480 g 3

—— cement, 37

— grafting, 133

——-— liquid blacking, 199

~—-—- paste blacking, 200

—--- varnish, 267

—— water~proof for boots and
shoes, 152

balsam, 64

meal cakes, 54

-——- pudding, s4

poke, antidote for, 16

_ none, 54

Indigestion, 227

 

lllll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HHHII

 

H
:3
9:
to
:1

 

 

 

 

Indigo, extract of; 349

01

3O

Inflammation of bowels 210

of brain, 210

of legs of horses, 106
Influenza, 227

Infusion of buchu, 73

Ink, black, 480

copying g, 40

(India),8 to remove from the
flesh, 48 o

1ndelible printing, 48o
(marking), to remove, 158
mould 1n, 160

to restore when faded, 202
rollers for printers, 454
solid, 480

stains on boards, 151

—— —- books, 158

— —— dress goods, 158
— —- line}? 158
———————-ma ogan , 1 8
Inks, all kinds, 200 to 207 y 5
Insect bites, 11

Insects on canaries, 169

to exterminate, 136

to preserve, 186

Interests, rules for computing, 480
Interfering in horses, 105
Intoxication, 228

Invigorator, hair,

Involuntary emiss102ns, 22o
Iodine, stams for, 73

soap, 317

Iron and bark, p7yrophosphate of, 70
bitter wme of, 73

boiler, cement for, 35
and calisaya bark, 7o
castings. to ornament, 427
cement for, 34

cement, 37

to color copper, 427
developer, 276

to galvanize, 426

to improve, 427

mould, to remove, 158
oxydization of, 427

pills of, 79

to plate, 432

pots, to mend, 162

to prevent welding, 428
railings, decay of, 427
rust cement, 37

rust, to remove, 158
Russian sheet, 432

to silver, 435

slag cement, 428

and steel, to distinguish, 439
to tin, 409, 428

test for, 480

to test quality of, 428
varnish for, 442

ware (new), to temper, 161
work, to paint, 427
Ironing, 350

Isinglass. glue, 48o

s1ze, 257

Italian cream, 54

varnish, 268

Itch, 228

bakers, 228

barbers, 228

in horses, 105

ointment, 76

yellow dock root for, 82
Itching chilblains, lotion for, 75
Ivory, artificial, 480

to bl each, 480

dyes for, 480, 481

knife handles, to prevent being
cracked, 158

-— to silver, 481, 428

to soften, 481

to take stains out of, 158
—-- transparent, 481

to whiten, 158, 481

 

 

 

llHHllll

 

 

 

 

 

 

IIIHHIHHIIHHIHlHl

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jamaica rum, 376

Jam, apple, 293

a—--— apricot, 294, 303
blackberry, 295
cherry. 297
-—— Currant, 303

 

 

 

INDEX.

Jam, gooseberry, 303
peach, 303
plum. 303
raspberry. 303
—— strawberry, 303
Jahn’ 5 black ink, 204
Japan black ink, 204
dryer, 252
varnish, 268
Japanese cement, 37
Japanning on metal, 428
on paper, 428

on wood, 428
Jars, cement for cracks in, 35
Jaundice, 228

see wild cherry bark, 65
see dandelion, 68
J 8111', apple. 54, 293. 303
apncot, 294
arrowroot, 54
calves feet, 54, 296, 303
chicken, 54
hartshorn, 303
sage, 54, 303
shank, 60
Jerusalem artichoke, 119
Jet, to clean, 481
Jewelers’ cement, 37
rouge, 429
Jewelry, to clean, 429
Johnny cake, 47
Juniper tar soap, 317

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HI

 

 

 

Kalsomining, 257

Kal dor for the complexion, 73
arion for theh air, 73

Keeping accounts, 118

lawns, 136

Kerosene fires, to extinguish, 155

lamp wicks, 159

Ketchup, camp, 303

mushroom, 303

walnut, 303

Kicking cows, 90

(horse) 1n stable, 105

Kid boots, to clean, 152

-— to restore color of, 152

—— to soften, 152

gloves, to clean, 348

—— to co or, 3

Kidneyécomplaint, see imperial drops,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9
inflammation of, 228

(of horses), inflammation of ,105
Killing and dressing poultry, 116
grease, 257
knots, 257
Kindlings, fire, 158
Kissingen water, 86

Kite, to make, 481

Knee- -pan displaced 1n horses, 105
sprung horses, 105
Knife-handle (loose), to fasten, 158
Knives, to clean, 158
to preserve from rust, 158
Knots, killing, 257
Kourie cement, 38

 

 

 

 

 

Labels for plants, 143

for poisonous drugs, 18

Lace (black), to clean, 351

(go 1d), to clean. 347, 35I

to renovate, 351

(silver), to clean, 351

to wash and 1ron, 350

—— (white silk), to wash, 351

Lac red dye, 350

Lacquers, 257

colored, 257

Lacquered articles, to clean, 158

Lac varnish, 26

Lama dress, to wash, 351

Lamb, to keep fresh, 304

to ju dge its quality, 54

(leg 0) to boil, 55

—— to roast, 54

Lambs, care 0f,9 93

Lamb-skins, to prepare for ladies over-
coats,1

Lampas in horses, 106

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lamp accidents, to prevent, 158
—— chimneys, to cleai’n, 15
—-— — to prevent reakin 1
—— black, 267 g, 59
— oil, to purify, 489

wicks, home made, 159, 482
Lamps, to clean, 159

(kerosene), turning down the
wicks of, 159

to prevent smoking, 159
Land, to drain, 482

Lard, candles from, 314

to keep from moulding, 304
to prepare pure, 73
Larks, trolling for, 176
Laudanum, 73

Laughing gas, 472

Laundrymg. 337

Lavender, essence of, 70

—-—-— water, 86

Law of copyright, 46o

Lawns, keeping, 136

to wash, 351

Laxitive (female), pills, 79
Laying soft shelled eggs, 136
Lead, cerate of, 67

colic, 215

—-——- poisoning, 229

white,2

—— to test, 482

Leaf 1n copper, 245, 279
printing, 27 8

to take 1mpressions of, 278
Leak, to stop, 159

Leaks around chimneys, 154
Leather belting, cement for, 35
bronzing for, 482

cement for, 35

and cloth, cement for, 3;
dressing for, 187

—— French patent, 187
polish for, 187
—-— to gild or silver, 187, 482
-—-— of old furniture, to restore, 159
-- oiling, 187

pape

(paterit), p701ish for, 482
scraps,1

seats, blacking for, 200

to tan, 187

work, 246

Leaves as manure, 138

to preserve, 482

skeleton, 245

to take 1mpressions of, 245
Leeches, 73

to apply y, 229

Legs of horses, broken, 106
inflammation of, 106
— swelling of, 106
Lemonade, 375

effervescing, 376

milk. 375

portable, 375

powder, 81

Lemon acid, 304

beer, 365

cake. 47, 55

can 1', 4

for cough, 461

pic. 55, 58

sauce, 55

sherbet, 377

syrup. 377

water, 55

— ice, 54

wine, 387

Lens, burning, 453

Lettuce, to grow, 124

in Winter, 136
Leucorrhea, 229

pills for, 79

Lice on apple trees, 118

calves, 92

cattle, 89

fowl, 116

house 9plants, 143

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

HHHI

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Light phial, 483
Lighten (to). dark rooms, 26
Lightening rods. 429

- — —- to erect. 28

Lights, bengal, 483

Lilac dye, 352

Lima beans, 12r

Lime, antidote for, 17

to burn, 28

deposit in boilers, 40:
juice and glycerine, 74
water, 86

—-——— -—-- for painters, 257
Linen, to bleach, 342

care of, r59 .

to detect cotton in, 460
grease spots on, 337

ink stains on, I 58

to remove fruit stains from, I 59
—— — mould from, r 59
—— — stains from, :59, 351
to make fire-proof, 1
sizing of, 352
(scorched), to restore, 160
to take ink out of, 159
(table), to wash, 35:
whitening, 352

Lines, fishing, r81

Liniment, arnica, 4
(blistering), for horses, 106
for bruises in horses, 106
camphor, 74
electro-magnetic, 74
good samaritan, 74
nerve and bone, 106
rheumatic, 74

sore throat, 7

for sprains in horses, :06
Liniments, 74

Linnets, 171

Linseed oil, to bleach, 258

Lips, chapped, 33o

Lip salve, 83

carnation, 74

red, 74

white, 74

Liquid blacking, 200

blue, to prepare, .74
cement, 39

dye colors, 352

glue, 39

soap, 317

Liquors, coloring for, 373
Lithographers ink, 200, 204
Lithographic paper, 279
Lithography, 279

Liver, inlifiimmation of, 229

91 s, 79

Lock-jaw, 19, 229

Logs, to prevent splitting, 483
Looking-glasses, to clean, 1
Lotion of chlorinated soda, 75
for corns, 325

freckle, 74

Gonlaud’s, 74

for itching chilblains, 75
Lovage, 483

Lozengc, carminative, 75
C9ugh. 7s

ginger, 75

Keatmg’s, 75
santonine, 75

steel, 5

Lumber, facts about, 483
Luminous ink, 204

Lunar caustic, antidote for, 17
Lungs, bleeding from, 12
inflammation of, 230
state of, 230

to strengthen, 230

of sheep, inflammation of, 95
Lye, to make, 3x7

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

IHIH

 

 

 

 

 

 

llll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Macaroni, boiled, 55
gufsar oil,l76

ac mery oi , 4
Mackerel. to fry,9:5
Madder lake, 258
red dye, 352
Maderia wine, 387
Magic copying paper, 483
lantern, pictures for, 495
photographs, 279
Magnesia, carbonate of, 66
Magnesium, 429

 

 

 

 

INDEX.

Magnesian, efl‘ervescing aperient, 54
Mahogany, cement for, 35

furniture, to give a good color
to, r

—— graining, 225

—— to imitate, 258

ink stains, r 58

varnish, 268

Malt-liquors, to bottle, 367

Mandrake or may apple, 75

Mange in cattle, 89

in dogs, 17:

Manure, converting bones into, 137
— —-— dead animals into,

 

 

 

 

 

I37

garden refuse as, 138

heap, management of, :37

hen, 138

leaves as, 138

liquid, :38

night-soil, 138

sawdust and chips as, 138

stable, x36

Manuscript, estimate of, 483

—— preparation of, 483

Map colors, 484

—— varnish, 484

Maple beer, 365

graining, 255

sugar making, :38

trees, to tap, 138

Marble, artificial, 484

to clean, 160, 484

to cut and polish, 484

to remove grease or oil from,
160

— smoke stains from, 160

stainin , 484

Marbled soap balls, 318

Marbling for books, 45x

glass globes, 392

Marbles, gray and white, 258

to imitate, 258

Italian, 258

Marking ink, 204

——-— —— to take out, 158, 204

—-—— for parcels, 204

Marketing, hints on, 160

Marine glue, 39

Marmalade, apple, 294

apricot, 304

cherry, 297

~— gooseberry, 304

——- mixe , 304

—— orange, 304

—— red carrant, 324

tomatoe, 61

transparent, 304

Marrow pomade,

Marshmallow ointment, 77

Mastic varnish, 268

Matches, to make, 484

Mats, sheepskins for, 191

Matting, to brighten, 485

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

. Mead, 376

 

sarsaparilla, 376
Meadow saffron, antidote for, 17
Meadows, worn out, 139
Measels, 230

false, 230

Measures, table of, 485

Meat (fresh), to keep, 305
(frozen), to keep, 305

to cure, 305

panada, 55

to preserve, 305

stewed, 55

Strasbourg potted, 55
test for bad, 55

Medals, molds for, 429
Medicine, table for administering, Bo
Melon mangoes, 305

Melons, to grow, 139

arrel culture for, 139
Menses, pills to promote, 79
Menstruation, 23o
(obstructed), pills for, 79
painful, 231

retained, 231

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

. Merinos, to wash, 352

Mercurial battery 3
Metal, bell, 400 ’ 99

 

53I

Metal, to clean, 43o

sheathing for ships. 430
for telescopes. 430

for type, 430

white, 430

Metals, cement for, 33

fancy coloring for, 430
inks for writing on, 204
paste for cleaning, 43o
welding, 445

writing on, 430
Metheglin, 376

Mice girded trees, to save, 140
to drive away, 175, 485
Microscope, home made, 485
Microscopic cement, 38
photography, 280
Microscopical objects, 485
Mildew, 485

on cotton cloth, 346

to remove, 160, 352

on roses, 140

sulphur for, r40

in wheat, 150 ‘

Milk of almonds, 75

—— (bloody), in cows, 90
biscuit, 55
composition of, 485
—— condensed, 305 ‘
-————- of cows, to increase, 91
—— to ‘deodorize, 14o

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

to detect when adulterated, 485
fever in cows, or
management of, r22
—— of roses, 75
-— room, charcoal in, 140
-—-—-— sickness, 231
—- to test richness of, r40
—— to preserve, 305
———— punch, 376
of wax, 75
—,—-.- whey, 55

 

 

(hard), cows, 90
in silence, 140
Mill picks, to harden, 424
Mince pie, 58

Mineral candles, 314
water syrups, 84
Mink breeding, 187, 188

to trap, 189

 

 

 

. Mirrors, amalgam for, 389

——-—— to platinize, 485
Mistura spiritus vini gallici, 75
Mitchel’s balsam, 64

Mixing paints, 259

Mixture, cough, 75

copaiba, 75

—- gout, 75

Mocking birds, food for, r71
'— to trap, r71
Modelingin clay, 247,

Moiree metallique, 43o
Molasses, 56, 365

—— candy, 48

Moles, 236

(ground), to destroy, 189
Mone , counterfeit, 46:

Monk 5 hood, antidote for, 17
Monochromatic drawing, 24]
Moon-eye in horses, 106
Mapping floors, 1 55

Morrocco, to dye, 180

Mortar, 28

hydraulic, 28
Mosquitoes, to banish, r75

' bites, solution for, r75
to prevent biting, 175
Moss work, 247

on roofs, 503 ,
Mother of pearl, cement for, 3 5"
Moth patches, 33o
Moths in carpets, 75, 154
in clothing, 175
(codling), to trap,
in furs, 175

to keep from fur, r75

Mould in books, to prevent, :60
—— — ink, to prevent, 160, 204
Moulding figures in clay, 486

— jasper color, 486

— paste, 486

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

t

4140

 

 

 

 

532

Moulding fi es in wax, 486

the ace of a person, 486
Mould in mucilage, 487

——-— in safes, to prevent, 486
Mouldy substance in rooms, 486
Moulting of birds, 167, 178
Mountain laurel, antidote for, 17
Mourning dresses, 346

Mouth disease in cattle, 88

glue, 39

pastilles, 77

(sore), in horses, 106
unceleration of, 231
Mucilage, 39

for labels, 487

—--— salep, 39

mould in, 487

Muddy water, to clear, 163
Muflins, 56

Mulberry wine, 387

Mule, the, 106

splint on, 106

Mulled egg, 56

Mumps, 231

Muriate of barytes, antidote for, 17
of tin, antidote for, 17

of tin, 442

Muriatic acid, antidote for, 17
Mush for stock, 92

Mushroom catsu , 56

beds, artificial, 141

jelly, 3°

Mushrooms, bailed, 56

———— to distinguish from poisonous
fungi, 56

(poisonous), antidote for, 16
to pickle, 305

to preserve, 306

to stew, 56

Musical instruments, to stain, 487
Musk, essence of, 70

soap, 318

tincture of, 85

Muskrat, to skin, 189

—— skin, to tan with fur on, 189
to trap, 18

Muslin, to make re-proof, 160
-———— to wash and iron, 350, 353
.Mustard, aromatic, 487

——-—— French, 56

, plaster, 80

table, 56

Mutton broth, 56

to judge its quality, 56

to roast, 56

to stew, 56

Myrrh dentifrice, 69

Myrtle soap, 313

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nails, biting the, 330
(finger), care of, 330
to whiten, 331
Names, signification of, 487
Nankeen dye, 352

Nasal gleet in horses, 106
Nature printing, 281
Navicular disease, 106
Neat’s foot oil, 489

Neck, enlarged, 211

Nectar, cream, 376
Negative, an auxiliary, 281
bath, 273 '

—— preservation of, 281
fixing, 281
preservers, 282
Neroli, essence of, 0

Nerve and bone linunent, 106
Nervous pill, 79
Nervousness, 231

Neufchatel cheese, 127
Neuralgia, 231

see Dr. Peabody's cure, 69
Nickel plating, 430
Night-mare, 232

soil manure, 38
Nipplei, sore, 232

Nitre, antidote for, 17
Nitrate of silver, 75 .

—- —-— antidote for, 17
~— —— -— stains, 163
Nitric acid, antidote for, 15

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INDEX.

Nitro-glycerine, 489

Nose-bleed, 12, 232

Noses (large), to make small, 331
Nursing sick children, 232
Nutmegs, to select, 57

N ux vomica, antidote for, 17

Oak graining, 255

trees, 148

varnish, 268

Oat cakes, Scotch, 57

Oats, to cultivate, 141

seed, 145

Odor of flowers, to obtain, 75
of paint, to remove, 161
i1, British, 76

of cassia, 76

of cedar, antidote for, 17
cloth, to brighten, 485
in cloth, 161

cream, cod liver, 76
drying, 252, 258
(essential), to extract from
flowers,

to extract from boards, 151
furniture, 254, 258

hair, 76 _

Harlam, 76

(kerosene), to test, 161
king of, 76

(lamp), to purify, 489
of lemons, to preserve, 490
linSeed, 258

for machinery, 490

in marble, 16o

neat’s foot, 489

of orange flowers, 76

of orange, 30 preserve, 490
painting, to prepare canvass
for, 274

parchment, 490
prepared, 258

(rape), to purify, 490

of rhodium, 7

of roses, 76

Rowland’s macasser, 76
rue, antidote for, 17

of savin, antidote for, 17
for sewing machines, 431
of spike, 76

of tansey, antidote for, 17
of tar, antidote for, 17
turpentine, 76

varnish, 268

of vitrol, antidote for, 17
for watches, 431

Oiled floors, 26

paper. 4 1

Oiliness in ink, 204

Oiling leather, 187

Ointment of belladonna, 77
cream, 76

green, 76

glycerine, 76
Holloway’s, 76

hoof, 107

—— itch, 76

marshmallow, 77 ‘

P118, 77

—— Sisson’s. 77

Sloan’s, 107
stramonium, 77
Oleographs, 490

Olive enamels, 466

Omelette, 57

Onions, boiled, 57

to cultivate, 57

—— to keep, 306

to pickle, 306

roasted, 57

Opium, antidote for, 17
culture, 142

extract of, 71

Powell’s, 77

tincture of, 85
Opodeldoc, liquid, 77
Opticans’ cement, 3

Orange dye, 353

enamels, 466

flowers, oil of, 76

flower soap, 318

 

 

 

 

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Orange jelly, 54

—— marmalade, 304
—-— peel, candied, 306
pie, 158

sher et, 37
Orangeade, 376 7
Orchards, to manage, 142
Orgeat, 376

Oriental painting, 247
rusma, 69
Ornaments (brass), to clean, 151
Ostrich feathers, to clean, 348
Otters, to skin, 190

to trap, 189

Otto of roses, 77

Ovens (new), to temper, 161
Over-reaching, 107

Owl trap, 186, 190

Oxalic acid, antidote for, 18
Oxygen, to prepare, 77
Oysters, are they healthy, 57
artificial, 57

to bake, 57

catsup, 306

to fry, 57

patties, 57

pickled, 306

to roast, 57

soup, 57

stew, 57

vegetable, 63

 

 

 

 

 

 

llllllll

Packing china or glass, 373, 393
hints on, 490

Paint, black, 250

blue, 25o

brown, 250

cheap, 259

chestnut, 250

to clean, 161
fire-proof, 253

flexible, 259

green, 256

milk, 260

(oil), to reduce with water, 25:
petrolium, 26
Prussian blue, 262
quick drying, 253

red, 262

to remove odor of, 161
— —— from stone, 490
skins, 260

spots, balls for, 64
water-proof, 269
white, 269

yellow, 271

zinc, 271

Painting, 258

antique, 243

brick buildings, 25
fresco, 253

flower, 284

Grecian, 245

glass or porcelain, 393
houses, 25

iron work, 427

oil, 282

Oriental, 247

outside houses, 259
rules for, 259

theorem, 248

white washed walls, 270
water color, 283
Paintings, to preserve, 283

to restore, 283
Painters, rules for, 263
Paints, to mix, 259

Pain extractor, 77 _
killer, Perry DaVis', 77
Palm soap, 318

Palpitation of the heart, 226
Palsey in horses, 107

Panada, bread, 58

chicken, 58

Panama hats, 476

Paper, COpying, 49°

flowers, 247

—-—-— from oat refuse, 491

- fumigating, 77

——- hanging, 260

—— hangings, to clean. :61

 

 

 

HHIIHHIHHHI

 

 

 

HIHHIHH

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Paper, paste for, 261

—— (poisonous) test for, 161
leather, 490

— lithographic, 279

mache, to clean, 161
oiled, 491

parchment, 491

to prepare for photographs, 285
to remove stains from, 161
sensitising, 284

to stain, 491

to take wr1t1ng out of, 161:
test for wood in, 492
trting, 284, 492

transfer, 284. 492,
transparent, 492

waxed, 492

Papulous scall, 232

Parabolic cement, 38

Parchment glue, 39

to make, 190

paper, 491

to stain, 491

 

 

lllllllllll

 

 

 

 

 

 

Paregoric, 77

Parrots, cages for, 172

food for, 172

plucking its feathers, 172
to teach, 172

Parsley, to dry, 306

Parsnips, to boil, 58

preserving, 306

to raise, I42

Parsnip wine, 387

 

 

 

 

 

Partridges, to boil, 57

P19, 57

to roast, 57

Paste for birds, 168

blacking, 2oo
German, 77

to keep ayear, 39

for labeling on tin, 492
for paper hanging, 261
phosphorous, 77

for pies, 57

potatoe, 58
resembling the diamond, 492
rich and light, 58

for scrap books, 40

for walls, 492

Pastiles, fumigating, 77
month, 77

vanilla, 492

Patent medicines, composition of, 492
Pavement, street, 493

Peach, borer, 142

jam. 303

pm, 58

trees, 142

potash for, 142
worm, 150

Peaches, to can, 306

to dry, 306

to peal, 58

to preserve, 307

to stew, 58

Peanut culture, 143

Pearls, to hold, 4331

Pearl inlaying,4

~——— work, Initation, 493
Pears, to bake, 58

to grow, 142‘

Peas, (green) to preserve, 30"
Peasley cement, 38

Peau D’Espagne, 78

Pectoral drops, 69

Pegged boots, to 9prevent ripping, 152
Pencil drawings, 276

—— writing, to fix, 494
Pencils, black lead, 494
indelible,4

Peppermint cordi4 , 4.374
essence of, 70
Percussion 4caps, priming powder for,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perfume of 4ilowers, to extract, 78
for gloves, 78

——- powder, 78

for sachets, 78
Permanent ink, 204

Perpetual ink, 204

Petroleum paint, 260

 

 

 

INDEX.

Petroleum, (refined) to decolorize, 495
improved method of threat-
mm 495
Pew’ s composition for covering build-
ings, 26

Pewter, 431

to clean, 16:

Phalon’ 5 hair oil, 76

Phenyl paper for preserving meat, 305

 

 

Phosphorous paste, 77

Photograph coloring, 286
Photographic collodion, 275, 286,
light, 28 7

printing, 287, 289

process, 288

seals, 290

Photographing on wood, 290
—— tracings without a camera, 509
Photographs. to clean glass for, 278
to dress for, 286

enameling, 286

magic, 279

to reproduce when faded, 278
to tint, 292

Photographers, new light for, 287
Photography, microscop1c, 280
Photo- galvanography, 287

Photo- lithography, 272

Photo- lithographic process, 288, 495
Physic Balls for horses, 96, 107
Piccalilli, 307

Pickled beef, 295

tomatoes, 311

tripe, 311

walnuts, 311

Pickling cabbage, 296

com, 2 8 I

cucum ers, 298

Eggs, 299

hints on, 357

mushrooms, 305

—-—-— onions, 306

—— oysters, 306

Pickles, copper in, 307

cucumber, 307

—-—--— French, 307

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

of sweet Citron, 307.

Picture frames, 495

to g1ld, 42o

— to prevent flies from in-

juring, 161

to print from the print itself,
28

 

 

 

 

Pictures to 5hang, 161:

for magic lanterns, 495
on porcelain, 285
steroscopic, 291
Pigeons, to test freshness of, 58
to stew, 59
Pigments for stained glass, 495
Pigs, blind staggers in, 93
lice on, 93

mangy, 93

to select, 93

Pie, cocoanut, 49

cream, 58

lemon, 55, 58
mince, 58

orange, 58
partridge. 57
peach, 58

pumpkin, 58

Pile ointment, 77

Piles, 23 2

Pillows, 3feather, 469

Pills, ague, 78

of aloes, 78
anti-bilious, 78
Brandreths

carbonate 061mb, 78
———- cathartic, 78
chalybeate, 79
chamomile, 79
cough, 79

digestive, 79
dinner, 79
emmenagogue, 79
female laxitive, 79

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pills, for gravel, 79

Holloway’ s, 79

of iron, 79 1

liver,

for obstructed menstruation, 79
to promote menstrual secretion,

 

 

 

 

 

 

nervous, 79

rhubarb,7

for sick headache, 79

to sugar coat, 79
Pimples, to cure, 331

dry, 232

Pinchbeck, 431

Pine apple rum, 376

Pink saucers, 79

d ye, 353

Pip 1n birds, 166

Pistachio nut meal, 318

Pitch plaster, 80

to remove, 163

Pitting in small pox, 234
Piques to wash,8 352

Plague, cattle,8

Planks, to prevent spliting, 483
Plants, boxes for starting, 143
house, 143

— lice on, 143

labels for, 143

—— to take impressions of, 245
Plant specimens, preservation of, 3 18,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plaster, aggesive, 496
casting in, 454

casts to take, 496, 497
alabaster effect on, 497
to harden, 497

to toughen, 497
com, 79

court, 68, 79

figures, to give a bronze ap
pearance to, 432
varnishing, 498
irritating, 79

mustard, 80
ornaments, 29

of Paris, 496

poor mans, 8o:
rheumatic, 8o
strengthening, 80
stytic, 80

Plastering, 29

Plate. to clean, 162

Plated metal to test, 432
Plates, hot cast cnolite, 285
Plating without a battery, 432
on iron, 432

on steel, 432
Platinizing glass, 473
Pleur_isy 233

Plowing,”

Plows (rusty) to clean, :44
Plumbago, to test, 498
Plumbers cement, 38

Plum cheese, 309

to grow, 143

jam, 303

to preserve, 309
pudding, 59
Pheumonia in horses, 107
Pointer dog, 18o

Poison dogwood, antidote for, 18
ivy, antidote for, 18
Poisoning, lead, 229
Poisonous drugs, labels for, 18
paper hangings, 161
Poisons, antidote for, 18
Polish, French, 261, 498
Polishing glass,3

iron, to keep from rust, 432
leather, 187

powder, 432

wood carving, 262
Poll evil, 107

—— and fistula, 107
Pomade, castor oil, 80

cream, 80

dye for the hair, 80
marrow, 80
transparent, 80
Pornatum, black stick, 80

1 India, 80

 

 

 

 

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534

Pomatum, marrow, 80

philocome, 80

rose, 80

Ponceon, 353

Poplar bark, 65

Poppy, extract of, 71

Porcelain, to make, 499

pictures on, 285
Pork as food, 59
Portable eggs, 299
_‘_ g “e! 3

‘ Porter, 76 9

ottling, 376

Portwine, 387
Positives (direct), on glass, 286
Posological table,

l Potash, antidote for, 18
—— yield of, 318
Potassium, bromide of, 66

suphocyanide of, 500
Potatoe paste, 58

bread, 45

Potatoes, to boil, 59

bug, to destroy, 144
earthing up, 143
— (frosted), starch from, 506
—— to fry, s9

—— mashed, 59

—— pudding, 519

—— raising un er straw, 143
—— scones, 59

—— seed, 145

—— snow, 59

——-— sprouting, 309
—-— storing, 309

sweet, 143, 309
—— rot, prevention of, 143
Potchimoni, 248

Pot-pie, chicken, 49

Pots (iron), to mend, 162
Potted beef, 43

meat, 55

Pottery, 498

Poudre subtle, Delcroix’s, 69
Poultice, charcoal, 81
Goulard’s, 81
hemlock, 81

yeast, 81

Poultry, to fatten, 114

to kill and dress, 116
—— for market, 116
Powder, ague, 81

baking, 42

—--—- composition, 81
—— condition. 81
——-—-—— Dover’s, 81

——-——— filtering, 81

—— ink, 205

————-— lemonade, 81 ‘
pearl, 81

rose face, 81

seidlitz, 81

tooth, 81

Powders, cleansing, 107
condition, 107

Pox, chicken, 233

cow, 233

small, 233

(small), pitting in, 234
Precipitate, red, 77
Preserving animals. 190
apples, 294

_. birds, 176

~-——— eggs, 299

fresh meat, 305
——-- green grapes, 301
insects, 18

milk, 305
mushrooms, 306
Primrose vinegar, 381
Prince Rupert’s drops, 393
Printed books, to bleach, 500
sheets, to clean, 500
Printers’ type, 430

Printing ink, 204

rollers, 500

Prints, to bleach, 500

to transfer gdglass, 286
to prevent mg, '
Propogation of salmon, 19353
Proud flesh, 233

Pruning, 143

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INDEX.

Pmsic acid, antidote for, 18
Prussian blue. 262

, '— dye, 34‘
Pudding, apple, 41
arrowroot, 59
birds nest, 59
bread, 46

green com, 53
half pay, 59
Indian meal, 54
plum, 59
potatoe, 59

—— rice, 59

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

rice and apple, 59
—- tapioca, 61
tomatoe, 62
Pulleys, speed of, 473
Pulmonic wafers, 86
Pumpkins amongst com, 144.
—— drymg, 309.
for rheumatism, 502
Pumpkin pie, 58
Pumice stone, 262
Pump, self-acting, 500
Punch, 376
milk, 376
Puppy, to choose, 170
Purchasing a house, 157
Purgative balls for horses, 96
Purification of water, 163
Purple dye, 352
enamels, 466
ink, 205
stain, 263
Putty, glaziers’, 4o
polisher, 432
to remove, 162
to soften, 140, 262

Pyrogallic acid developer, 276

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Quail trap, 197

Queen bees, to mar, 23
Queens-ware, to make, 500
Quince, to cultivate, 144
marmalade, 304
to preserve, 309
Wine, 387
Quinine, substitute for, 81
Quinsey, 234

Quills, to prepare, 500
Quilts, to wash, 346
Quittor in horses, 108

 

 

 

Rabbits, to cook, 59
to feed, 173
habits of, 173
— to keep from apple trees, 118,
131

— to rear, 173
to test, 59
to trap, 190
Rabies in dogs, 17o
Raccoon, to catch, 190
skins, to prepare, 190
Radishes, to grow, 144
Rag carpet, 500
Railroad signals, 501
Rain, to produce, 144
Raisin Wine, 387'
Rancid butter, 453
Rape oil, 490
Raspberry ice cream, 54
cordial, 374
Jam, 303
—— syrup. 378
Vinegar, 381
wine, 387
Raspberries, to grow, 144
Rasps, 419
to recut, 419
Ratafia, 376
Rat—proof corn'cribs, 128
Rats, to destroy, 175
Raynor’s depilatory, 69

or, to hone and strap, 501
paper, 501
strap paste. 501
— to renew, 162, 502
Red cement, 38
—— dyes. 354

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Red enamels, 467
hypemlc, 354
ink, 205

lead, 262
madder, 354
paints, 262
precipitate, 82
raspberry, 82
stain, 26311
water in s eep, 5
fishing, 182 9
Refrigerator, home made, 502
Relative height and weight, 502
Remedy for drunkeness, 82
gout, 82
— rheumatism, 82
Rennet, 144
to use, 144

Renting a house, 157
Resin-oil ink, 205

Restorative, hair, 72
Revalentia Arabica, 82 ,
Rhubarb, to dry, 31o

pill. 79

to preserve, 310
root, 82

tincture of, 85, 502
- transplanting, 144
vinegar, 381
wine, 387
Rheum in birds, 166
Rheumatic alterative, 64
fluid, 71

liniment, 74
plaster, 80
Rheumatism, remedy for, 82, 86, 234 '
see Dr. Kittredge’s remedy, 69
inflammatory, 502

in cows, 90
in horses, 502

in shee , 95

Rhodum, oil 0 , 76
Ribbons, to keep, 162
to iron, 337
to wash, 355 .
Rice and apple pudding, 59
bread, 45

flour cement, 38
pudding, 59
Riding a horse, 108
Ringbone, 108
Rings (bull), to insert, 93
Ring (tight), to remove, 235
Ringworm, 235
—— in horses, 108
Roaring in horses, 108
Roasted onions, 57
snipe, 60
Roast patridges, 57

veal, 62
venison, 63
Roads, repairing, 502
Robin, to tame and feed, 173
Rock blasting, 502

work, artificial coral for, 50-
Rocks, to remove, 122, 145
Rods, fishing, 181
Rolls, beef steak, 44
Roman cement, 36, 38
Roofing, cheap, 29 i,
Roofs, composition for, 29
fire-proof wash for, 503
moss on, 503
—— (tile), cement for, 36
0f thatch, 30

of tin, 29
Room, to cool, 235

walls, cement for, 35
Rooms (dark), to lighten, 26
Root, alkanet, 82

beer, 3165

gold t read, 82
golden seal, 82
grafting. 133

rhubarb, 82

yellow dock, 82

to dry, 310

to preserve, 310
to make flexible, 50
Ropes, to compute strengt of, 500
Rose buds. to preserve, 310
colored enamels, 467

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Rose, pink, 82

ms , 230

water, 86

wood graining, 256

—— to imitate, 263
-— stain, 263

essence of, 70

milk of, 75

mildew on, 140

oil of, 76

otto of, 77

pomatum of, 80
Rosemary hair wash, 73

hair oil, 76

Rosin soap, 318

Rouge, 82

Roup in fowels, 117

Rubber boots and shoes, to mend, 152
hose, to mend, 162

Rug, to make, 162

(sheepskin), to clean, 162
Ruling ink, 205

Rump gland obstruction in birds, 167
Rum, Jamaica, 376

pine apple, 376

Santa Cruz, 376

St. Croix, 376

shrub, 376

Runaway horses, 108

Runnet, 144

Rupture in horses, 109

Russian bath, 209

sheet iron, 432

Rust, to keep from tools, 31
steel, 163, 432
(iron), to remove, 158

to remove, 163, 432

to prevent in tea kettles, 51
in wheat, 150

Rustfi p10Ws, to clean, 144

Rye read, 45

to cultivate, 145

 

HH

5
§

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sachet a la Frangipanne, 82
helitrope, 82

perfume, 78

rose, 82

Saddles, wooden, 478

Safes, mould in, 486

Sago bread, 45

to cultivate, 145

Jelly. 54, 303

Salad, cucumber, 51

Saline draught, 377

Salmon, propagation of, 190

Salt in building chimneys, 455

fish, to freshen, 52

of lemons, 503

in soap making, 318

water soap, 319

Salting butter, 123

cabbage plants, 124

Salts for smelling bottles, 83

Salve, balm of Gilead, 82

black, 82

—— healing, 450

brown, 82

Conklin's, 83

- felon, 83

green mountain, 83

-— Kitridge’s, 83

—— lip, 83

Russuin, 8

Sand pa er, to ma e, 503

Sandwic cake, 47

Santa Cruz rum, 376

Santal wood soap, 319

— spirit of, 503

Santonine lozenges, 75

Saponaceous cream of almonds, 319

Sarsaparilla, 83

extract of, 71

Vmead, 376

syrun 373

Sassafras, 83

beer, 365

Sauce, apple, 41

c utney, 60

cranberry, 50

—— fish, 51

— for fowls, 53

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INDEX.

Sauce, lemon, 55

shir ey, 60

—— Worcestershire, 60, 311
Sauerkraut, to make, 310
Saws, to mend, 433

——- tempering, 433

Saw teeth, shape of, 433

to put in order, 433
teeth to sharpen, 434
Scab in sheep, 95

Scald heads, 226

Scalds, 19

and burns, 12

Scarfs, to clean, 356
(cashmere), to clean the white
middle of, 356

to wash, 356

Scarlet dye, 355, 356

fever, 224

ink, 205

Scenting soaps, 319
Schiedam schnapps, 377
Schioicao cement, 38

Scones, potatoe,

Scorched linen, to restore, 160
Scotch brose, 46

butter candy, 48
Scouting floors, 155

Scours in calves, 92
Scratches, 235

in horses, 1

Screws and nuts, to loosen, 503
in soft wood, 30
Scrofula, 235

Scurf in the head, 330
Scurvey, 235

Sea bathing, 448

Seal engravers cement, 38
Sealing wax (all colors), 40
Sea sickness, 235

Season for trapping, 195
Seasoning new glassware, 156
Seed, barley, 145

com, 145

to improve, 145

oats, 145

Seed, potatoes, 145

to select, 145

-——-—— to test vitality of, 145
—— wheat, 145

quantity required in planting,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

503 .
Seedlac varnish, 268
Seidlitz powders, 81
Seive trap, 197
Senna, extract of, 71
Sensitizing baths, 273
Self-sucking cows, 91
Setting hens, 116
traps, 195
Sewing machine oil, 431
hints on using, 503
Sex of canaries, 168
eggs, H4
Shade trees, to plant, 148
Shampoo liquid, 503
Shank jelly, 60
Shaving cream, 68
liquid, 504
paste, 319, 504
soap, 319
Shawls, to clean, 356
Shearing sheep, 95
Sheathing for ships, 43o
Sheep, age of, 93
catarrh in, 94
to fatten, 94
foot rot in, 94
hayracks for, 94
inflammation of lungs in, 94
jumping fences, 94
— killing dogs, 94
and lambs, care of, 93
leather, to dye, 180
to protect from gad fly, 94
rheumatism in, 94
red water in, 94
scab in, 94
to shear, 94
skins, to prepare for mats, 191
— to tan, 191
stretches in, 94

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

lllllHll

 

535‘

Sheepskin rugs. to clean, 162
Shellac, to bleach, 505

varnish, 268

Shells, etching, 248

Shell work, 248

Sherbet, 377

lemon, 377

orange, 377

Persian, 377

Sherry wine, 388

Shingles, to prevent decay of, 30
fire-proof wash for, 30
Ships, to ventilate, 505

Shirley sauce, 60

Shirt bosoms, to polish, 356

—— to starch, 337

collars, to dress, 357
—— to starch, 337
Shoeing horses, 109

Shoes, care of, 151

Shoe soles, to save, 337

Shops, din in, 409

Shortness of breath, 79

Show cmrs for druggists’ windows, 83
Shower bath, 209

Sick, food for, 236

room, pure air in, 236
—— — Visiting, 236

Signals, railroad, 501

Signatures, to take fac—similies of, 505 O
Silk (black), to choose, 338

to clean, 357

(colored), to clean, 357
gilding on, 504

grease on, 358

to keep, 337

reviver, 357

stockings, to wash, 358
(varnished), to prepare, 505
to do up, 338
washing, 358

(white), to bleach, 357
wrinkled, 358

to alloy, 434

to clean, 43

to clean when tarnished in sol-
dering. 437

counterfeit, 435

to enamel, 422

frosted, 435

German, 435

to give luster to, 162
imitation, 435

ink, 205

to keep bright, 435

leaf, to varnish like gold, 438
to make transparent, 437
ornaments, to clean, 162
plate, to take stains of, 162
plated candlesticks, to clean,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

lllHHIH

 

U}
:1:
<
o
3‘

 

 

‘53 . .

plating fluid, 437

— solution, 435 ,
to refine, 437

to restore dead white in, 435
stains, to remove, 291
waste, to recover, 291
to write on, 438
Silvering, 435

glass, 394

“”011, 435

ivory, 428

leather, 187

powder, 437

to test, 42.0

Size, bronzing, 263

gold, 263

inside, 263

isinglass, 257

Sizing for boots and shoes in treeing
out, 50

for gilding, 254

for gold on glass, 394
- of linen, 352

Skating, hints on, 504
Skeleton leaves, 25
Skeletons, preparation of, 19!
Skin, discolored, 236
grafting, 236

to soften, 331

to whiten, 331
Skinning birds, 176

lllll HHHIIIHH

 

 

 

 

I l

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

i.

536

Skinning muskrats, 189

' otter, 1 o

Skins of anima s, composition of, 192
coloring and dyeing, 192
curing, 193

dressing and tanning, 192
preservatives for, 193
stretching, 193
Skunks, to trap, 193

Skunk skins, to deodorize, 193
Slate dye, 358

Slates, artificial, 505

Sleep for farmers, 130

for infants, 237

. posmon in, 237
Sleeping together, 237
Sleeplessness, 236

Sloan’s ointment, 107

Slugs and snails, 145

upon wheat, 150
Small pox, 233

darkness in treating, 505
—— —— pitting in, 234
Smoke in furnaces, 471

stains in marble, 160
Smoked hams, 302

Smoking chimneys, to remedy, 26
Smut in wheat, 145

Snake bites, 12

bitten cattle, 89
Snails, 145

Snares for trapping, 193
Snipes, roasted, 60

to shoot, 193

Snow, apple, 41

Snuff, catarrh, 83

cephalic, 68, 83

Soap, arsenical, 193

home made, 319
-— making, 312 to 323
SoapsudsI bubbles, 506

c earing, 58

Soda cakes, 60 3

Softening of the brain, 211
Soft corns, 215

soap, 321

Solder for brass or copper, 438
common, 438

hard, 438

silver, 438

soft, 438

wire of, 446

Soldering castings, 407
ferrules, 438

Soluble glass, 394 to 396
——-——- in painting, 263
Solutions, fixing, 291

of silk, 291

Soothing syrup, 84

Sore mouth in cattle, 89
nipples, 232

Sores (old), red precipitate for, 77
Sorghum culture, 145

- vinegar, 382

Sorrel, to remove, 146
Soundness of timber, 147
Soup, asparagus, 42

Boyd’s, 60

coloring for, 60
gumbo, 7o

oyster, 57

stock for, 60

tablets, 506

tomatoe, 62
Vegetable, 60

Sour beer, 366

Spasms, remedy for, 237
Spaulding’s glue, 39

Spavin, 109

cure for, 110

Spawn of fish, to handle, 180
Specific for dysentry, 83
Specula, polishing powder for, 438
Spermaceti candles, 314

soap, 321

Spiders in gardens, 132
Spinal affections, linament for, 74
Spiritus vini gallici, 75
Spitting of blood, 209

Spleen, inflammation of, 237
Splinters, to extract. 237
Splint in horses, :10

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INDEX.

Splint in mule. 110

Sponge, to bleach, 83

cake, 47, 60 ‘
paper, 506

tent, to prepare, 83

Spots (grease), to remove, 163

on s' , 163

 

 

 

 

 

S rain, 2

Sgrained 3a7nkle, 208
Sprain in horses, 110
Springs of iron wire, 438
-—-——- (trap), to temper, 438
Squash, to cook, 61
culture, 146
Squeaking boots, 1' 52
Squinting, 238

Squirrels, to manage, 173
skins, to tan, 194

 

 

— to trap, 193

Stable on fire, horses in, 15
manure, 136

Stables for horses, 105

Stacks (hay), to ventilate, 134
Staggers in horses, 110

Stain (black), for wood, 263
—— blue, 263

—— cherry, 263

—-——— ebony, 263

—— for floors, 264

purple, 263

red, 263

rosewood, 263

yellow, 264

on floors, 155 -
(ink), on books, 151, 158
on ivory, 158

of iodine, to remove, 73
of nitrate of silver, 163
on paper, 161

Staining glass, 393, 396

—— pigments for, 495
Stair carpets, 153

Stammering, to cure, 506
Starch, alum in, 358

flour, 358

from frosted potatoes, 506
glue, 359 ,

-—-—— gum Arabic, 358
——-—— to improve, 359

lustre, 359

Polish, 359

Starching, clear, 358

St. Croix rum, 376

Steam boilers, 441

engines, care of, 506
pipes, cement for, 35
Stearine candles, 314

Steel articles, bluing, 404

—— to preserve from rust, 163
Bessemer’s process of making,

 

 

 

 

 

Stains

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

439

to color blue, 440

to distinguish from iron, 439
—— dye, 359

goods, to preserve, 441
Heaton’s process ofmaking,439
lozenges, 75

to plate, 432

to remove bluing from, 440
to remove rust from, 163

to restore when burnt, 440
scaling, 440

Siemen’s, 440

tempering, 440

to toughen, 44o

Steers, to break, 96

jumping fences, 94
Stereoscopic pictures, 291

- transparenCies, 291

Stewed meats, 55

oysters, 57

pigeon. 59

veal, 62

Stiff joints, see Dr. Kitredge's reme-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

y,
Stifle stepping, 11o
Stings of bees and wasps, 19
Stomach acid, 238
bitters, 366
inflammation of, 2 8
putrid belching 0 wind from,
see charcoal of wood, 67

 

 

 

 

Stone, artificial, 30, 507
coating {or wood, 31
cement for, 36
facades, to clean, 50
preserving surface 0 , 3o
varnish, 268
ware, to manufacture, 508
Stones, to remove paint from, 490
Stopper (glass), to remove, 163
Stoves, blacking, 163
cement for, 36
to keep from rust, 508
to mend cracks in, 508
Stramonium, antidote for, 18
Ointment, 77
Strangles in horses, 110
Strawberry, cordial, 374
culture, 146
ice cream, 53
Jam, 303
plants, 146
vinegar, 38::
wine, 38
Straw bonnets, to bleach, 359
— to clean, 359
—--- — to dye,_3s9
-———— -— to varnish, 359
—-— color, 359
hats, to whiten, 360
Street pavements, 493
Strictures, 238
Strengthening plaster, 8o
Stretches in sheep, 96
Strychina, antidote for, 17
Stucco white wash, 27o
Stuffiing birds, 176
for turkeys, 62
Stump machine, to make, 146
Stumps, to remove, 146 ‘
St. Vitus dance, 238
Stye in eye, 221
Styptic plaster, 80
Subsoiliiig, 146
Suet dumplings, 60
to keep, 310
Suffocation from noxious gasses, 19
Sugar, to clarify, 60
— —- for candies, 68
of lead, antidote for, 18
to make, 147
—-——-—— (maple), to make, 138
refining, 508
vinegar, 382
Suit (working), for farmers, 338
Sulphate of Zinc, antidote for, 18
Sulphur, to detect in coal gas, 69
flexible, 508
casting in, 454
for mildew, 14o
Sulphurated hydrogen, 508
soap, 321
Sulphurous acid, to make, 508
Summer drinks, 377
—— squash, to cook, 60
suits, to wash, 360
Sunburn, 236, 332
Sunflower, its value, 147
Sunprinting on fruits, 131
Sunstroke, 1 , 238
Superfluous air, 329
Supperation, gargle to promote, 72
Surgeons adhesive cloth, 63
Swarming of bees, 2o
—— artificial, 20
to prevent, 21
Swarms going to the woods, 2!
Sweating, profuse, 239
to produce, 239
— —— -— see burdock, 66
Sweeney, 110
Sweet fern, 85 _

~-— potatoes, to raise, x43
—— to store, 309
Swelling of legs of horses, 106
white, 239
Swimming. art o . 508
Sympathetic inks, 205
Syrup, blackberry, 295, 377

cathartic, 66

cough, 84
Currant, 298
to color, 377

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Syrup for consumpfives, 84
1 ive, 84

-— emon, 3 7 _

.— of phosphate of iron, 508

-——— -——- —— of iron and lime,_508

—— — —— of iron and qumme,
08 .

—— —- —— of magnesxa, 508

—— raspberry, 378

sarsapanlla, 378

soda, 378

-——— soothing, 84

—— stillingia compound, 84

-—~—-— of tar, 84, 509

vanilla, 378

Syrups for mineral waters, 84

 

 

 

Tables, to remove marks from, 163
‘ 61

Tallow candles, 314

to clarify, 321

to harden, 321

Taming horses, preparation for, 110

and training horses, 110

young canaries, 169

Tan bark, 194

to remove, 332

Tannin, purification of, 85

Tanning buffalo skins, 179

chemistry of, 194

curriers size for, 195

-— paste for, 195

-— skirting for, 195

furs, 192

leather, 187

muskrat skins, 191

operation of, 194

sheep skins, 191

skins, 192

without bark or mineral as-

tringents, 194

without the wool or hair, 194

squirrel skins, 194

in vacuo, 508

Tapeworm, 232

—-—— see sweet fern, 85

Tapioca paper, 291

pudding, 61

Tapping maple trees, 138

Tartar emetic, antidote for, 18

Tar, to remove, 163

syrup of, 84, $09

varnish, 268

Taste of new wood, 164

Tea, beef, 43, 61

how to make, 61

febrifuge, 71

kettles, to clean, 163

— to prevent rust in, 61

substitute for, 61

Tears of the widow of malabar, 378

Teeth, to beautify, 332

care of, 332

cements for, 509

elixers for, 70

and gums, wash for, 332

Telescope metal, 430

Tempering brass, 404

-—-— earthenware, 155

-——— liquid, 441

new iron ware, 161

new ovens, 161

steel, 44o

trap s rm 5 I

Tender feet, 522 g ’ 97

A Tendons in horses, contracted, 111

Tepid bath, 209

Test for pure water, 163

for soap, 321

paper, new, 5

Testing by blowpipe, 441

Tetter, 239

crusted, 240

humid, 239

Thatch roofs, 30

Theorem painting, 248

Thistle, Canada, 147

Thorley’s food for cattle, 92

Thomap le, antidote for, 18

Throat, .oreign bodies in, 19

——~ (inflamed), gargle for, 72

H
a
n

l

 

 

 

 

 

 

Illlllllll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INDEX.

Throat, sore, 24o
—— liniment for, 74
Thrushes, 173 '
Thrush in horses, 111 _
Thunder storm, safety dunng. 13
Tic-doloreux, 240
Ticketing ink, 206
Tiers argent, 441
Tight ring, to remove, 235
Timber, to test soundness of, 147
when to cut, 147 _
why it should be pamted, 264
Tincture of cantharidies, 85
colera, 85
of ginger, 473
gout, 85
of rhubarb, 85
of musk, 85
of opium, 85
of pearls, 85
for the teeth, 85
Tin cans, size of sheet from 1 to 100
gals, 442
to clean, 163
to crystallize, 441
gold lacquer for, 442
muriate of, 442
pans, to mend, 163
paste for labeling on, 492
plate, crystallized, 441
roofs, 29
ware, to mend, 442
Tinning, 441
cast-iron, 442
cold, 442
iron, 428
Tinting photographs, 292
Tints, mixing, 264
Toads, 148
Toast water, 161
Tobacco, antidote for, 18
to flavor, 509
Toe nails, ingrowing, 24o
Toilet, the, 332
vinegar, 332
Tomatoe beer, 336
catsup, 61, 311

s, 311
fritters, 61
marmalade, 61
pickles, 311
plants, to raise, 148
—— preserved, 311
pudding, 62
sauce, 31:
soup, 62
wine, 388
Tomatoes, browned, 61
canning, 310
to cultivate, 148
Tombac, red, 442
white, 442
Tonic bitters, 65
see chamomile, 67
Toning bath, 273
Tonquin musk soap, 321
Toothache, 240
Tooth powders, 332
Tools, art of grinding, 81
to preserve from rust, 31
varnish for, 43
Tortoise shell, to imitate, 509
manufacture of, 476
Toys, varnish for, 509
Tracing paper, 284, 492
Tracings, to photograph without a.

camera, 509

Transfer ink, 206
paper, 284
Transferring to glass, 249
to wood, 249 -
Transfusion of blood, 209
Transparencies, to make, 249
sterescopic, 291
Transparent enamels, 467
paper. 492
soaps, 321
Transplanting, 147
rhubarb, 144
Transportation of vegetables, 148
Trap, dead fall, 196
farmers, 196

 

 

 

 

 

llll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

537

Trap, figure four, 197

quail, 197

Sieve, 197

springs, to temper, 196
wild turkey, 197
Trappers, hints to, 195
Trapping foxes, 184

gophers, 185

hawks, 186

mink, 18
mockinggirds, 171
muskrats, 189

otter, 189

owls, 186, 190
rabbits, 190

raccoons, 190

season for, 195
skunks, 193

squirrels, 193

Traps, baiting, 196

setting, 195

Trays of paper mache, 292
Trees, average growth of, 510
oak, 148

(shade , best to plant, 148
wounds in, 150
Tricks of horse dealers, 112
Trinchina, 2 o
Tripe, to pickle, 311

Trout breeding, 197

Tuba root, 510

Turkey, to bake, 62

to choose, 62

charcoal for, 117

to rear, 117

red dye, 355

stuffing for, 62

(wi ), trap, 1 7

Turkish baths, 209 9

Turnip, to cook, 62

culture, 149

wine, 388

Turpentine for purifying purposes, 76
- to remove, 163

varnish, 268

Typhoid fever, 224

l l

 

 

 

 

llllHlI

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

l

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ulceration of the month, 231
Ultramarine, 264

artificial, 264
adulterated, 265
Umbrellas, 162
Unfermented bread, 44

 

 

 

mk, 206

Urine, inability to hold, 241,
incontinence of, 510
(scanty), see burdock, 66
stoppage of in horses, 112
suppression of, 241
Uterine hemorrhage, 227

 

 

 

 

 

Vaccine virus, keep, 8
Vanilla, extracmf, 71 5
~—-—— pastilles, 492

Symp. 378

Vapor baths, 209

Varnish, amber, 266
anti-rust, 44

black, 266 3

—— for coal buckets, 443
— copal, 266
— Japan, 266
blacking, 200
brushes, 266
cabinet makers’, 266
camphor, 266
caoutchouc, 266
care of, 266

cheap, 266

coach makers’, 267
colorless, 267

copal, 267

crystal, 267

etching, 292
flexible, 267

for colored drawings, 292
for edge, zoo

 

 

IHIIIHHIIHII

 

 

 

538

Varnish for glass, 267
for harness, 475
for iron, 443

for paintings, 292
for prints, 510
for steel, 443

for shoes, 510

for tin, 442
-—-— for tools, 443

for toys, 509
glaze, 267

gold, 267, 443
green, 510

gum elastic, 267
impermeable, 267
India rubber, 267
Italian, 268
Japan, 268

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

oil, 268

seedlac, 268

shellac, 268,‘

stone, 268

tar, 268

to make, 265

to polish, 269

turpentine, 268

water-proof, 268

white copal, 268

— china, 268

— hard, 269

Varnished furniture, 471

Varnishing, 265

of paper, 510

walnut furniture, 510
Veal broth, 62

' chops, breaded, 62

cutlets, broiled, 62

to roast, 62

—— sherbet, 62

— stewed, 62

Vegetable cellar, 126

oysters, 63

soup, 60

Vegetables, to boil, 62

to cook for stock, 92

to free from insects, 62

to keep, 311

to take frost out of, 52

to transport, 148

pickle for, 311

Veils, to clean, 36o

Vellum, to make, 197

Velpeau’s black caustic, 67

Velvet ribbon, to iron, 337

to restore, 360

to take grease out of, 360

Veneering, 511

Veneered work, to polish, 511

Venereal complaints, see blue flag, 66

Venison, to roast, 63

steaks, broiled, 63

Ventilating hay stacks, 134

Ventilation, 512

of bedroom, 449

how to secure, 162

Ventriloquism, 512

Verbena, essence of, 71

Vermifuge, Fahnestock’s, 85

Swain’s, 85

Vermin on calves, 92

on hen roosts, 116

Vichy water, 86

Vinegar, aromatic toilet, 85

black Currant, 380

camp, 380

cider, 380

cold water, 380

cowslip, 380

dry portable, 381

gooseberry, 381

honey, 38o

horseradish, 380

perry, 381

plant, 382

primrose, 381

raspberry, 381

rhubarb, 381

sha ness and strength of, 382

sorg um, 382

llllllllllll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

llllllllllllll

 

INDEX.

Vinegar, strawberry, 381
sugar, 382

to make, 378
—-— white wine, 382
Violet color, to make, 269

 

 

 

 

ink, 206

Violets, essence of, 70
Visiting sick rooms, 236
Vitality of seed, to test, 145
Vomiting, 241

Wafers, Bryan’s pulmonic, 86
Wagon hubs, to prevent the cracking
ofin seasoning, 513

tires, to keep on the wheel, 513
Wagons, to grease, 14 , 512

Walks (gravel), to ma e, 513

to keep weeds under on, 513
Wall paper, to extract grease from, 163
Walls (damp), remedy for, 163
Walnut catchup, 303, 311

to pickle, 311

to polish, 269

tree, 149

Warm baths, 209

Warts, 241

on cattle, 89

on cows teats, 91

on horses, 112

-——— —-— —— noses, 112
Washing (chemical), preparation, 513
dogs, 17o

dishes, 155

fluids, 322, 36o

—— graining, 156

hints on, 360

Wash ball, perfumed, 86, 322

for the hair, 73

Wasp stings, 1

Wasting in bit 5, 167

Waste silver, to recover, 291 _
Watch, care of, 444, 445
movements, to frost, 445
-—— wheels, to put teeth into, 445
Watches, to clean, 443
Watchmakers’ oil, 431

Water and fire-proof cement, 39
brash, 241

Carlsbad, 86

cement, 32, 38

Cologne, 86

congress, 86

eye, 86

farcin in horses, 112

filter, 515

home made, 164
Florida, 86

for horses, 104

Goulard, 86

gruel, 53

(hard), to soften, 63

—- to improve, 514

honey, 86

~—-— Hungary, 86

Kissingen, 86

lavender, 86

—— lime, 86

muddy, to clear, _163 _

pipes, to manage in Winter 515
—— —— to mend, 515

——- to unite, 516

proof blacking, 199, 200
— canvass. 454

— composition forwood, 516
—— cloths, 333

— for boots and shoes, 152
—— for porous cloth, 516
— for soles of boots, 152
— for tweeds, 516

-- ghee, 39

— paint, 269

—- paper, 516

—— packing paper, 516
— varnish, 26

purification of, 163

rose, 86

supply for bees, 23

tanks, 515

testing, 163

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

lllllllllllllllllll

 

 

Water-tight clothing, 334
— cellar floors, 516
to clear when muddy, 515
to determine whether it be
hard or soft, 514
to find, 513
to keep cool without ice, 515
to make cold, 63
to prevent becoming putrid,

 

 

514 .
to purify, 63
to_purify when putrid, 515

 

 

_ Vichy, 86
Watering streets, chemical solution
for, 516

Wax, bottle, 40

candles, 315

casting in, 454
grafting, 135

Putty, 382

sealing, 4o

Waxed paper, 492

Weather signs, 516

table, Dr. Adam Clark's, 517
Dr. Hershell’s, 518
Weak back, 208

Wedding cake, 47

Weeds, to destroy, 149

in walks, 149, 513
Weight, relative, 502
Weights and measures, 164
Welding by pressure, 446
cast-iron, 407

—— steel, 446
cower, 446

metals, 445

powder, 446

Wells, to remove foul air from, 518
Wens, to cure, 242

on horses, 112

Whale oil soap, 322

Wheat, mildew in, 15°

rust in, 150

seed, 145

slugs upon, 150

smut in, 145
Whiskey, Bourbon, 382

— Irish, 382
Monongahela, 382

to neutralize, 382 ‘
Scotch, 302
Whitening ivory, 158

inen, 352

White china varnish, 268
--—-—- copal varnish, 268
— dye for silk, 61
-——-—- —— for woo, 361
enamels, 467

ha'rd varnish, 289
—— lead, antidote for, 18
——-— —— to make, 269

to test, 482
paint, 269, 270
swelling, 239

-——— wash, 270

stucco, 27o
washed walls, to paint, 27o
Whites, 229

Whitlow, 242

Whooping cough, 216

Wicks for candles, 315

of kerosene lamps, 159
Wild cherry bark, 65

ducks, to roast, 63
turkey trap, 197
Willow bread, 40

Wind colic, 215

galls, 112

—— in horses, to improve, 11:
Window blinds, 518

curtains, 155
gardening, 132

glass, 397 _

—— and sun light, 164
sashes ratteling, 36, 164
Windows, to clean, 164
Windsor soap, 322

Wine, apple, 383

apricot, 383
blackberry 384
buscuit, 46

M! 385

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wine, cider, 385
coloring for, 385
Currant, 385
damson, 385
elder, 386
elderben'y, 385
febrifuge, 71:
ginger, 386
gooseberry, 386
grape, 386

home made, 386
lemon, 387
madeira, 387
making, 382
morella, 387
mulberry, 387
of 1ron,

of wild cherry bark, 518
parsnip, 387

port, 387

quince, 387
raisin, 387
raspberry, 387
rhubarb, 388
ropiness in, 388
sherry, 388

sour or sharp, 388
strawberry, 388
taste of cask 1n, 388
to cool, 385

to flavor 388

to restore when fiat, 386
to settle, 388
tomatoes, 388

to mellow, 388
turnip, 388
unfermented, 388
vinegar, 382
(white), to convert into red, 388
Wintergreen, 86
Wintering bees. 23

 

 

llIlllIllIllHIIIIHIHHIHHIIH

 

 

 

INDEX.

Wire, brass, 404

of solder, 446

Witch, hazel, 86

Wood carving, to polish. 262
cement,

composit1on for coating. 27:
decay In, 31

to dye red, 27

(new), to remove taste from,164
in paper. 492

to petrify, 518

to polish, 27x

preservation of, 518

to prevent cracking, 3x

to prevent decay 1n, 518
pulp, to bieach, 519

to render incombustible, 31
_Samuel’ 5 method of preserv-
mg, 31

to season, 519

stone coating for, 3:

to split,5

Wooden taps ansd faucets, 388
Wool, to bleach, 342

to clean, 361

on tanned pelts, to bleach, 179
Woolen articles, to clean, 361

hose, to wash, 349
Worcestershire sauce, 6o, 31:
Working butter, 123

suit for farmers, 338

Worm balls for horses, 96

currant, 150

—-—- (cut), on cabbages, 124
—— — to destroy, 150

peach, 150

seed, 87

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Worms, 242
see poplar and wild cherry
bark, 65

 

 

S39

Worms, see santonine lozenges, 75
in dogs, 17:

in horses, :12

Wounds 1n horses, 11:2

. balsam for, 96

1n trees, 150

to treat by ventilation, 242
Writing business letters, 519

on glass, 473

fluids, 202

- for the press, 520

to make indelible, 519
(new), to make look old, 520
(old), to copy, 520

to prevent alteration m, 519
to restore, 519

to take out, 16!, 520
Wrought iron, to case harden, 447

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yam, Chinese, 150
Yeast for bread, 4.4.
cake, 48
cakes, 63

to make, 63
poultice, 8:
to preserve, 312
Yellow dock root, 82
dye, 361, 362
enamels, 467
fever, 224
ink, 207
paints, 27x
stain, 264.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zine paint, drying oil for, 252
preparation of, 27x
painting, 271

water paint, 271

 

 

 

 

 

HEALTH HINTS.

Showing how to Acquire and Retain
BODILY SYMMETRY, HEALTH, VIGOR, AND BEAUTY.

 

. This. is a new book just published, that contains a fund of rare, valuable, and practical
information on subjects that interest every man and woman, boy and gir . A partial list of
its Contents is as follows:

CHAPTER I.—LAws or BEAUTY.
Definition of Beauty—Different styles of Beauty—The perfect Standard, etc., etc.

CHAPTER II.—HEBEDITABY TRANSMISSION.
Showing how parents can have healthy and beautiful children, etc., etc.

CHAPTER III—Ana, SUNSHINE, WATER, AND F001).
Howthese elements influence health and beauty—A white skin and pale complexion is not beauty—Sun-
ht necessary to health, etc., etc—How corpulence may be cured—The Fat made lean—How lean
people may become plump and fat, full directions (you need not be lean, angular, bony, or sharp vis-
aged, When, by followmg the directions of this'book, you may acquire a roundness of form, and a
plumpness and I'OSlneSS of face that will be a delight and pleasure to look upon)—~Philosophy of bathing
—How properly to wash the face (few know how to do this, simple as it may appear)—What food to
avord by those who may wish to regain or retain sound health, clear skin and rosy cheeks—The best
kind of tenet- soap to use, etc., etc.
CHAPTER IV.——Wom: AND REST.
How work and rest, rightly observed, influence health and beauty.

CHAPTER V.——DBEss AND ORNAMENT.

Choice of Color in dress—The harmony of color in dress to contrast with the fair, blonde, ruddy blonds,
pale brunette, and florid blonde, etc., etc. ‘

CHAPTER VL—Tnn HAIR AND rrs MANAGEMENT.

How all may have a fine head of hair—Falling of the hair—To manage and dress the hair when long—
How to curl the hair without injuring it—The best hair dressing—How to dress the hair for a photo-
graph—Brittle hair—How gray hair can be restored to its natural color—To restore the hair in bald-
ness-To remove superflous hair—Best combs to use—Care of hair brushes—When and how to cut the
hair—How heating irons and frizzing spoils the hair—How the use of patent oils and pomades destroy
the hair—How to make and use the best, most simple and harmless hair dressing at small cost—Care
of long hair at night—How dandruff and itching of the scalp may be cured, eta—THE BEARD AND
MousrACHE—What boys and young men should do to acquire a. fine, silky and handsome beard and
moustache, etc., etc. -

CHAPTER VII.——SKIN AND COMPLEXION.

The secret of acquiring a bright and beautiful skin—How to avoid flabby softness or scraggy leanness—

Anatomy and uses of the skin, etc., etc.

CHAPTER VIII.—TEE MOUTH.

Giving full instructions about the lips, teeth, breath—Lips that are beautiful or repulsive, how caused—
Biting and sucking the lips~—To prevent chapped lips—Habits that destroy the teeth—To prevent tar-
tar—The best tooth brush-How so prevent a bad breath, etc.

CHAPTER IX.—THE EYES, EAns, AND NosE.

Habits that weaken and imitate the eyes—The best light to work by—How to choose spectacles and fit
them to the eye —Care of the ears —Deafness, how to judge if curable—Red noses—How to reduce
large, fleshy, and unsightly noses, etc., etc.

CHAPTER. X.——TEE NECK, HANDS AND FEET.
Care of the hands—To remove warts—Care of the finger nails—To cure blisters, corns, bunions, etc.

CHAPTER XL—Gnow'rns, MARKS, ETO., THAT ARE ENEMIES or BEAUTY.

Gives full directions for the cure of sunburn, freckles, pimples, wrinkles, warts, fleshworms—No lady pos-
sessing a copy of “ Health Hints” need longer be troubled and annoyed by these enemies to a pleasing
and inviting face, etc., etc.

CHAPTER XII.—COSMETICS AND PEBFUM‘ERY.

This chapter. among other things, gives an anal sis of Perry’s Moth and Freckle Lotion, Balm of White
Lilies, Hagan’s Magnolia Balm, Bloom of outh, Phalon’s Enamel, Clark’s Restorative for the Hair,
Chevalier’s Life for the Hair, Ayer’s Hair Vigor, Professor Wood’s Hair Restorative, Hair Restorer
America, Gray’s Hair Restorative, Phalon’s Vitalia, Ring’s Vegetable Ambrosia, Mrs. Allen's_World’s
Hair REstorer, Hall’s Vegetable Sicilian Hair Renewer; Martha. Washington Hair Restorative, etc.,

etc. (no room for more), showing how the lead, etc., in these mixtures cause disease and ofttimes

premature death.
- PRICE 50 CENTS,
Or handsomely bound, in fine cloth, with side black and gold stamp, $1.00.

 

Send all orders only to the Publishers,
COWAN & 00.,
139 EIGHTH STREET, New York.

 

 

 

sis

 

7 THE SCIENCE OF, A NEW LIFE.

BY JOHN OOWAN, M. D.

PRICES AND CONDITIONS.
“THE SCIENCE OF A NEW LIFE ” is printed from beautiful clear, new type, onflne calen-

 

der-ed tinted paper, in one volume of over 400 octave pages, containing 100 first-class engravmgs, and a
fine steel-engraved frontispiece of the author. .
It is issued in three difierent styles of binding:

English cloth, bevel led boards, gilt back and side stamp, - $3.00
. Leather, 5 rinkled edges, - - .. - - . . $3.50
Half 'i‘ur ey Morocco. mar-bled edges, gilt letter back, etc., $4.00

It is sold only through canvassing agents and the publishers. If there is no agent in your vicinity, do
not wait, but send your order to the publishers. “ THE SCIENCE or A NEW LIFE” is not for sale in the
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customers that the book is “ out of print.” This will he a false cod. for the book will never be out of
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promptly returned you. Address, .
.COWAN 85 COMPANY, Pubhshers,
, 139 EIGHTH STREET, New York.

T0 DIEN AND WOMEN OUT OF EMPLOYMENT we offer splendid inducements
tooanvass for this book—such terms as will allow a profit of from $30 to $50 a week, right along. The
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instance is a. single copy of the book sold for less than the retail price. We mention this because many
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of you not to send for a confidential circular unless you really desire an agency.

A FEW WORDS TO THE READER.

You may already have one or more books that treat on sexual subjects, but we can assure you that
“ THE SCIENCE or A NEW LIFE ” contains matter of vital importance to the welfare of every human being,
that is not to be found in any other book published ; and written in such a plain, pure and earnest man-
ner, as no other book is written. If you give the possession of any other book on the same subject as an
excuse for not sending for a copy of “ THE. NEW LIFE,” you Will miss an opportunity that you may regret
in years to come. Also, do not plead poverty as an excuse for not sending for a copy, for the information
contained in it will, if heeded, save you in health and growth into a more perfect manhood and lovable
Womanhood, a thousand fold the price paid for it.

Again, do not superciliously say that you already know all on this subject you care to know, for “there
are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio, than are dreamed of in your philosephy,” and “ THE
SCIENCE or A N w LIFE ” does contain information that will open your eyes to new truths that you never
before dreamed of.

Finally. do not say that the book is an unflt one to be sold and circulated, for, as no man is perfect,
you may possibly err in your judgment, especially so if ou have not, before you passed judgment, thor-
oughly read and examined the book. Your opinion may be better than that of The Christian Union (edited
by Henry Ward Beecher), The Christian Advocate, and The Christian at Work, or that of William Lloyd
Garrison. Rev. E. H. Chapin, D. D., Judge J. W. Edmonds, Dr. Dio Lewis, Wendell Phillips, Mrs. Eliza-
beth Cady Stanton, and other noted men and women, and prominent journals, that so warmly endorse the
book; but yet it does not look reasonable to suppose that it is. ~

CAU'I‘ION.-“ THE SCIENCE on A NEW LIFE ” must not be confounded with “ The Science of Life,”
published by “ The Peabody Medical Institute,” an advertising quack concern, of Boston. It is widely
advertised throughout New England, and many persons have the impression that the two books are one.
Purchasers are also guarded against other books with nearly similar titles, as “ Science of Human Life,”
“ Science of a. True Life,” “ Sexual Scienc e,” etc. Before buying see that the book has Dr. John Cowan’s
name on the title-page, as author. .

ANOTHER ITElVI WORTH NOTIC]NG.—The majorit of popular books on sexual and
medical matters are written, widely advertised, sold by subscription an otherwise, simply and wholly to
bring In their authors’ medical practice. “ THE SCIENCE or A NEW LIFE ” was written simply and wholly
. do good; the author desires no medical practice, and refuses it when offered. The book is complete in
Itself—It Is a doctor and counsellor to all who read and heed its advice. .

In mailing money (to avoid all possible danger), send it in a registered letter. or by a post-office money
order. V_Vhen sent otherwnse, it is entirely at the risk of the sender. Give your name, town, county, and
state, plainly written, without flourish. and address

COWAN & 00., Publishers,

139 EIGHTH STREET, New York.
(Between Broadway and Fourth Avenue.) .

 

 

 

 

.1:

 

THE SCIENCE OF A NEW LIFE.

BY JOHN COWAN, M. D.

 

HINKING and reflecting persons must allow that We,
as men and women, are just as our parents made
us; that our irregularities of mind and disposition—
our infirmities of soul and body, have been trans-
mitted and bequeathed to us by those who gave us
being; and that one of the objects in living on this
earth is—in those who live rightly—to overcome
the crOOked and bad with which we are endowed.
This being so, any information which throws light
on this immensely important subject should be we]-
comed with unbounded delight. Such information
“ The Science of a New Life ” professes to give—
in a plain understandable manner—with great car-
nestness of purpose, with undoubted purity of
motive, with a spirit that breathes a reverence for
God’s greatest handiwork—man, indicating how,
by and through the observance of given laws,
clean, sweet, healthy and talented ofispring may
result, and perfection on this earth therefore be
possible of attainment. It also gives all necessary
. g 4 . suggestions for the right choosing of husbands and

,fiw " wives, so that harmony and happiness will result,

h.»- and discord and divorces be avoided.

Especially does it advocate and encourage in man
and woman continence, purity of thought and association, and all that socially ennobles
and elevates—leading the soul out of the filth and slough of sensuality up into the charmed
ang idovable atmosphere that encircles those who are chaste and pure in thought, word
an eed.

Altogether it aims in a systematic manner to cover the whole ground of human social
life bounded by the entrance into the marriage state and the birth of a new life—with the
intermediate results of wrong-doing, and their indications, causes, and remedies.

Some people look with distrust on all that concerns the intimate social relations of the
sexes, as knowledge that is dangerous and contaminating, that should be bid away in
dark corners, or entirely excommunicated, abolished, or destroyed. Such thoughts and
desires spring altogether from a wrong and misdirected education, instilling in the mind
of the individual views and opinions that are narrow, contracted and unfair. That a
knowledge of the whole of that part of human physiology that treats of the intimate
social relations of the sexes can injure or in any way degrade the thought, the mind, the
body, or the soul of the individual, would be a sad reflection on God’s loving justice
and mercy.

This book has been noticed most approvingly by divines of all denominations, physi-
cians, and by several hundred of the most prominent and influential papers of the coun-
try. Some—only a very few-of these notices, or rather short extracts from them, will
be found on the pages following the Table of Contents, to which the reader is referred.
These notices do not include the scores of letters received from the PEOPLE, whose great
sympathetic hearts beat in response to the high aims and noble purposes inculcated in
the 00k. -

N 0 person can read and study this book without being the better for it, and every man
and woman who aids in circulating it helps along the perfection of humanity, 3119“”
coming of the day when there will be no more spiritual, mental or physrcal deformities;
when man will truly be like unto the Father who created him.

Will you help us in circulating THE SCIENCE OF A NEW LIFE,
by either taking an agency yourself or interesting some of your friends
in doing so ? We hope so, and will be pleased to hear from you at any time
in relation to an agency or the purchase of a copy for yourself.

  

 

 

 

 

THE SCIENCE OF A NEW LIFE.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.—MABBIAGE AND Irs AnvANrAeas.

Men who are unmarried—_—Reasons advanced for remaining single—Marriage a natural condition of adult
life—The great desues and aims of life only to be secured through marriage— OnJac'rs IN MARRI-
mG—False objects—How mistakes are made in choosing—Should those afliicted with consump-
tion and other diseases marry l—The great wrong done in this direction True objects in mar-

rying. . . . . . . . . . . . . 25-29
CHAPTER IL—Aen AT wmcn T0 MAnnY.

How determined—Puberty, how accelerated, how retarded—~The error in fixing the popular age for mar-
riage—a'l‘he true age at which to marry, as determined by physiology—Why children born of early
marriages are undesirable—The effect of early marriage on the woman—On the man—~1‘he result
of unions between persons of disproportionate ages—Between old men and young women. . 30—35

CHAPTER III.--Tnn LAW or CHOICE.

Its great importance ~—It is as easily understood and applicable as any other law that governs mind and
matter—Mode of forming matrimonial alliances among the Assyrians~Chinese—Moors—Turks
—Tartars—Siberians—Modern marriages analyzed—The every-day result—The choosing of
a wife and purchasing a farm compared—Wherein consists the difference—The great error made
in choosing —TThe only true mode—Resulting in a harmonious and perfect love umon—Phrenolo—
gy as a gmde m choosmg. . . . . . . . . . . 36-

CHAPTER IV.—LovE ANALYZED.

Is love, as popularly used, a requirement in choosing a wife or husband l—Poets and novelists on love—
The mistiness surrounding the true meaning of the word—The mistakes made in its application-—
Characteristics of mock love—Rationale of true love—The definition of perfect sexual love—Pa-
rental love—Brotherly and sisterly love—Love of God—Reciprocity of thought and feeling as a
requirement in lo ve—Love at first eight—Can perfect love exist l—Health and purity of bad; as

—50

 

a requirement to its existence—Sickness and filthy habits as a bar to its existence. . .

CHAPTER V.——QUALIr1:Es THE MAN SHOULD Avon) IN CHOOSING.

Transmitted disease—Hysterical women—Small waists—Why their possessors are incapable of mak-
ing good wives—Natural waists or no wives— 'Why large men should not many small women—Ig-
norant and wrongly educated—Strong-minded women—-Modern accomplishments, their utter use-
lessness in married life —Knowledge of household affairs 9. requisite in all women who marry——-Skin-
deep beauty and true beauty compared—Extravagunee of dress and ornament——False hair, false
“ forms,” etc—Women who are indolent and lazy—Marriage of cousins, right or wrong? Ex-
tracts i'rom the Works of Drs. Carpenter and Voisin -——'l‘he author’s opinion and advice on the subject
—'l‘emperaments——-Widows-——-Divorced women —-—Difi‘ezence in religious faith—Women who
have a greater fondness for balls, parties and gossip, than for home associations—Other qualities that
are to be avoided—How and when to see women to learn their characteristics—Phonology as a help
—What should be done on choosing and being accepted. . . . . . 51-63

CHAPTER VI.—QUAL1rIEs THE WOMAN SHOULD Avon) IN (income.

The feverish desire of women to get married—Indica tions of the result—Who res onsible—Perfect
womanhood should be reached before the thought of marriage is entertained—Sic ness and ill health
in the man—Men possessing the disgusting habit of usmg tobacco, and the degrading one of using
alcoholic liquors, should be avoided—Why !—-—An unsolved mystery—Lustful and licentious men
——-Are moderate drinkers desirable as husbands ‘l—The “ fast " man and “ rake,” and woman‘s
shame in recognizing such —Fallen women. and woman’s duty to such—Efi‘eminate men—Men
having no visible means of support—Blood relalions—Widowers—Divorced men—Irreligious
and profane men—Gamblers —Mean men— Lazy men—Marrying strangers on short acquaint-
ance—Marrying for money or a home—Woman, in being sought after, should appear only in her
every-day character——'l‘he importance of this as affecting her future welfarb—Should women be
allowed to advertise for husbands l—Doubts on the subJect—If attempted, how to avoid evd
results—Failing an ofler of marriage, what then l—Words of consolation and cheer to unmarried
women. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64—78

CHAPTER VII.—THE ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY or GENERATION IN WOMAN.

The importance of aknowledge of reproductive physiology in all who think of marrying—The uterus-—
Ligaments—Cavity of the uterus—S tincture—Fallopian tubes—Ovaflek—Their structure—
Grafiian follicles—Ovum, or egg—Size and formation of human egg—How it ripens and is
thrown off —The febrile excitement produced by the ripening}? the Graflian vesicle and escape of the
egg—The vagina—Imbia—‘Hymen-—-—Menstruation— hen it first appears and when it ceases
—1ts origin and nature—The mammary glands—Nipples—The secretion of milk. . 4-86

CHAPTER VIE—Tun ANATOMY AND PanIOLooY or GENnnArION IN MAN.

V Prostate gland—Cowper glands—Testes—Scrotum—Structure of the testes—Vasa recta—Vasa
deferens —Sperrnatic oord—Vesiculae seminales—Ejaculatory ducts—Semen—Its nature, how
it originates and how perfected—Spermatozoa—Efi’ect of the first appearance of semen on boy—
Eflect of its re-absoption in the continent man—THE LAw or Sax—Is there a law governing the

duction of children of different sexes at will l—Difl’erent theories on the subject—The latest
heory probably the right one—Mode of procedure, as given by the discoverer, for parents to gener-
ate male or female children at will. . . . . . -104

CHAPTER IX.—AMAr1vnNass—~Irs USE-AND Anusn.

The cerebellum—Its two-fold nature—Amativeness—Its size in proportion to rest of brain—-—Its
location—The higher the organ of the brain the greater the. pleasure derived from its exercise—
The nervous fluid—Where originated—The effect when largely drawn on by amativeness——Sen-
suality—Its universality among all classes and all ages—~The eflect produced on amative desires by
the observance of ri ht and wrong dietetic habits—Causes of abnormal amative desires in women
—--The results of t e abuse of amativeness—Tbe effect on the nervous system—The semen, capa-
ble of giving life, is, when re—absorbed, capable of renewing life—Promiscuous indul ence—-—Risks
incurred—A sad ease—Hospital sights—Excessive indulgence between the mani —The slave-
life of the wife in this direction—The resultP—Amative excesses in those newly married—No

 

 

 

 

THE SCIENCE OF A NEW LIFEr—COntents Continued.

pure love where there is. sexual excess—Disgust, not love, born of this great wrong—Easily read
signs of sexual excess in the man and woman—The great necessity for a reformation in this
direction. . . . . . . . . . . 105—120

CHAPTER X.—-THE PREVENTION OF CONCEPTION. '

The true_reason for the desire for knowledge on this subject—Mode adopted by the “ Perfectionists”——
Its difficulty of observance—Its harmfulness—The method advocated by latter-day hysiologists,
founded on the theory of the monthly arrival at, and departure from, the womb of the ovum—-
Wherein it fails. . . .Intercourse during lactation. . . . How it results in conception. . . .Other methods of
prevention, and the harm they do——-The true method of prevention as ordained by God—The ob-
servance of which carries with it no bad after-effects. . . . . . . 121—128

CHAPTER XI.——Tn:a LAW OF CONTINENCE.

Its great importance—The prevailing ignorance on the subject—Definition of the word continaice—
How Often is the sexual act permissible between a man and wife living a pure and chaste life—The
only true solution being God’s diVine law in this direction—The only natural time for intercourse
——Anything differingr from this carries with it sin and sickness—Some objections to a continent life
consedfred Locke, Newton, and Pitt, men who never married, and who were known to live conti-
nen ives

 

 

The elementary differences between a. life of licentiousness and a life of strict conti-
nencefThe true use Of _the reproductive element—The difliculty in adopting and living a con—
tinent life—Rules for guidance—The reaction produced by a sudden arrest of sexual excess and the
use of alcoholic liquors compared and explained—Health not com atible with seminal emissions—
PLAN OF LmE—Tobacco—Aleoholic liquors—Gluttony—F to be used and avoided—Bread
—Dress—Exermse——Beds_and sleeping-rooms—Hours for rest and exercise—Habits—Em~
ployment—Chorce of companions—Training of the will-power—Drugs and patent medicines—
Quack doctors—Cultivation of the religious sentiments. . . . . . 129-150

CHAPTER XII.——CHILDREN, THEIR DESIRABILITY.

An essential requisite in a perfect union that parental love be present—The command to “increase and
multiply ”—Why children are troublesome to rear—The remedy—Small families and no families
among the married on the increase—Large families a thing of the past——The cause for the growing
unwillingness to have children—Beauty and youth retained, if not a uired, by having children
under right ccnditions——-The loneliness and desolation of life without children—The bearing and
rearing of children a glorious privilege—The perfection of love and happiness that comes of generat-
ing bright and beautiful children—Abdon, Judge of Israel, with his forty sons and thirty grand-
children—Increase of Offspring and overcrowded populations. . . . . 151-154

CHAPTER XIII.—Tmi LAW or GENms.

Plainness and mediocrity among mankind the rule, and beauty and genius the exception—The cause—
Educational and benevolent institutions of very small moment in comparison with the pre-natal in-
fluence of the mother—All the workings of this universe, from the smallest to the greatest,
governed by law——In the (production of olfsprin , too, there must be a law—The law of chance
or accident the law observe by the mass of man ’nd—The great wrong done by the non-Observ-
ance of the law of reproduction—The deformed, homely, and disease --—The mediocre—The
world’s great, their appearance explained—The immense importance of aright birthright on the
future welfare of mankind—Extending in to eternity—An imbecile or idiot here cannot bloom into
.a Shakespeare or Milton in the next world -——A person endowed by the parents with a licentious,
gluttonous, wicked nature, will not, on leaving this earth, take on the garments of purity, innocence,
and holiness—The fundamental principles of genius in. reproduction—Some obstacles to its observ-
ance—Their remedies—The requirements in women whose desire it is to observe the law of genius
in the production of bright and beautiful children—The requirements in men—Three periods of
transmitted influence—Period of introductory preparation—Period of gestatory influence—
Period of nursing influence-——-The mother’s influence during these periods—~The father’s influence
—The time at which the ovum, or egg, is in its freshest and ripest state, at which time it should be
imprenated—Husband and wife’s duty during the period of introductory preparation—The prin-
cipal requisites for transmitting desirable qualities to the (Jifspriugg—The quality of genius, or beauty,
not necessary in the parents to enable them to transmit these qualities to their offspring—Definition
of genius as given by Webster—Talent always in demand, mediocrity always at adiscount—The

ursuit of life for the child to be determined on before conception—Farmers—Farming the most
gesirable occupation in life—Where they fail, and how they fail—What they are, and what they
should be—Other occupations—Adam Smith on vegetarianism—First thing to. be done in
the observance of the season of introductor preparation—The importance of a life free from
injurious and filthy habits during this perio —()rder—Trntbfulness—-—Reverence for God—-
Unity of plans and desires—The introducto period one of intensity of thought and action——
Suppose a plan of life be adopted for a male child, and a female appear—What then ?—-—Instruc-
tion by examples-rThe expense for educating the future child should commence With the intro-
ductory period of preparation —This law of genius can be adopted by the poorest as well as the richest
-———Is a necessity as much to the laborer as to the diplomatist—In transmission of genius the parents
do not require to know so much as to try, to experiment—The transmissxon of accessory qualities
as guides and aids to the predominant faculty—Religious sentiments—Transmitted beauty of face
and form—Parents can as easily have beautiful children as homely ones—Rules to be observed—-
Exam ples—Parents can generate children of a cheerful, health , laughing nature as easily as they
can the reverse——The plan to be followed. easy of observance— mportance of a hfe of strict chastity

. during these different periods of pro-natal influence—Feverish pursuit of_ money as a barrier to the
observance of this law—A father's direct influence on the new life ends With the period of introduc-
{Dry preparation —-1mportance of a close Observance by him—Result of a united observance 051’ 5th;

91W. 0 I o . I o u n o n n c -

PART II.—TiiE. CONSUMMATION.

CHAPTER XIV.——THE CONCEPTION or A NEW LIFE.

The pro ' r season—Best months—Best time of day—Light and darkness—Light the source of life
—- arkness the synonym of death—The new life should be generated when the husband and wife
are at their perfection of physical and mental strength—The time of day this occurs—The sleeping

 

 

 

 

 

 

THE SCIENCE OF A NEW LIFE.-—Contents Continued.

room—The morning exercise of the devotional sentiments—Out-door exercise -—Purity of thoughts
—The consummation. . . . , 176—180

CHAPTER XV.—TnE PHYSIOLOGY or INTEA-UTEEINE GROWTH.

Growth of the eg after fecundation—The remarkable change that takes place—Segmentation of the
vitellus—Blastodermic membrane—External layer—Internal layer—Chorion—Ovum at end
of first month ———Relation of the cord, placenta, membrane, etc—Embryo, how nourished——-—P lacenta
—-Foetal circulation—Description of growth of ovum from tenth day to ninth month—Growth
and development of the face. . . . . . . . 181-191

CHAPTER XVI.—PEEron or GESTATIVE INELUENCE.

The fecundated egg—When the physical life comm ences—When the soul life commences—The medium
of communication between the soul and. the body—The medium of communication between the
mother and foetus—The first great requirement to be observed b the mother during this period—
The food to be used at this time—The only allowable. drink— yspepsia, how transmitted—The
importance of air and light—Baths—Sleepfiflabits of thought and action to be observed——
Period of gestative influence to be divided into two sections ——The first four months the physical in
the mother predominating—‘The last five, the mental predomina. ting—Indisputable reasons why
sexual congress should not take place between husband and wife during this (period—Illustrations
of the wonderful power of pro-natal influence—A young prodigy—An engineer—Woman’s right
to choose new paths of labor—Woman’s mediocrity in her present allotted paths of labor—How to
be remedied—Napoleon I.—The poet Burns—Why Scotland reduces such a number of literary
and scientific men—Other illustrations—The result when this aw is slighted and disregarded—
Children with bad tempers—Untruthful, sickly, scrofulous, consumptive, homely, desire for tobacco
—-Fonduess for alcoholic liquors, licentious, imbecile, idiotic, dishonest, revengeful—Cases illustrat-
ing these facts—The great responsibility parents accept in generating new beings for eternity. 192—234

CHAPTER XVH.——PREGNANCY, 1Ts SIGNS AND DURATION.

How originating a new life afl’ects the nature of the mother—Signs indicating that pregnancy has taken
place—Failure in recurrence of the menses —-—-Morning sickness—Salivation—M ammary changes
—-—Secretion of milk—Enlargem ent of the abdomen—Quickening—_—-Pregnancy may exist with-
out any of these signs Duration of pregn ancy—Viabihty of the child—Plan to adopt to save
life in a birth of the seventh month. . . . . . . . . 235-246

CHAPTER XVIII.—DISOBDERS or PREGNANCY.

Bearing of children a natural process—Why some women have easy,_ and others diflicult births—Un-
derlying cause of ill health during pregnancy—Nausea and vomiting—Longings—Fainting—v
Sleeplessness—Costiveness—Diarrhoea—Piles—Pruritus——Heartburn—Toothache-—-—Head-
ache—Palpitation of the heart—Swelling of the feet and legs—Pain in the breast—Hysteria
—-—Irritation of the bladder—Jaundice—Vomiting of blood—Vaccination—Salivationfi
ABORTION, oa MIsoAEErAGE—What it indicates—Its frequency, how caused—Efl’ects on the wo-
man serious and lasting—Symptoms—How to arrest—How to prevent. . . 247—255

CHAPTER XIX.—CONFINEMENT.

Mode of life to be adopted to insure an easy birth—Clothing— Food that will prematurely harden the
bones—Food that will keep them in a. cartilaginous state—Prevention of sufi‘ering in parturition
——-The time when this particular kind of food should be used—Baths a great help to easy child-
birth—Injections—Pure air and sunlight—Exercise—PEEPAEAT10Ns FOR CONFINEMENT—
The presence of gossiping friends and neighbors undesirable— Who should be present—Commence-
ment of labor—First indications—How to proceed in case the accoucher fails to attend. 256-263

CHAPTER XX.——MANAGEMENT 0E MOTHER AND CHILD AFTER DELIVERY.

Removal of soiled clothes—Bathingfiflow the abdominal banda e is useless—What to substitute in
its place—Visitors—Ventilation of the lying-in chamber—-— istakes in regard to diet at this time
——The breasts—Milk fever——Care of ni ples....Managernent of child after birth—Baths—
Dress—Exercise—Nursing room—F ——-Soothing syrups—Bow often should a child be
nursed—When should it be weaned. . . . . . . . . 264—278

CHAPTER XXL—PERIOD OF NURSING INFLUENCE.

How the character of the child is influenced by the mother during this period—The great wrong done
the child when not nursed by the mother ——Maternal influence at this period greatly under-estimated
—Efl’ect of the use of wrong food and drink by the mother on the health and character of the
childT—Efiectpf mental effort on the nursing child—The mother can transmit desirable mental and
phystcal qualities to the child during this period—Full directions to this end. . . 279-288

PART III.-—WRoNGs Rmnmn.

CHAPTER XXII.—F<ETIOII')E. '

Its extent—A nation of murderers—As prevalent in the country as in the city—Proofs—The crime
a murder, no more—no less—Ar ments the perpetrators advance to shield their iniquity—When
life is present in the embryo—— hen the soul is present--—Classes of society in which the women are
found who practice ante-natal child murder—Church members and professing Christians not exempt
—The crime against the wife and child of an undesired maternity—Who responsible—Letters
from women who have sufl’ered, exposing the cause and its results in all their hideous deformity—
Besults of forced abortion on the body and soul of the mother—Proportion who die—The local ef-
fects —-Eifects on the children born after—Sterility a frequent result—Beauty destro ed—Old
age hastened—Remorse of conscience—The ever present phantom of a great crime— hese unde-
veloped souls as witnesses in the next world—Advice offered, the observance of which will result in
less danger and harm to the mother—Effect on the child should the woman fail to accomplish her
desire—Suggestions as to_how the great crime is to be treated and prevented—No forced abortions
practiced by Roman Cathohcs-———The duty of ministers and teachers—Parting words to unmarrieic;

women. . . . . . . . . .
CHAPTER XXIII.—DrsnAsEs PECULIAE To WOMEN.
Their cause and symptoms—Directions for home treatment and cure—Why women are so universally

 

,

 

 

 

THE SCIENCE OF A NEW LIFE.—Contents Continued.

complaining—A rich field for quacks and patent medicine venders—_Absent menstruation—Re-
tained menstruation—Suppressed menstruatron——Chromc_suppression—Thrower menstruation
-—-Painful menstruation—Profuse menstruation—Vicarious menstruation—Cessation of men-
struation—-—Ch10rosis—Inflammation of the ovaries—Inflammation of the uterus—Chronic
inflammation—Uleeration of the uterus—Tumor in the uterus—Cancer of the uterus—
Corroding ulcer—Cauliflower excreseenoe—Displacement oi: the uterus—Prolapsus uteri, or fall-
ing of the womb—Retroversion of the uterus--Retroflexmn—Ante-version—-Leuoorrhuaa or
“ whites.” . . . . . . . . . . . . 811-329
CHAPTER XXIV.—DISEASES Prom mo MEN.

Their cause and symptoms, with directions for home treatment and cure—Gonorrhea and cure—Gleet
——Phymosis~——Paraph mosis—Stricture of the uretMa—T-Swelled testicle—Inflammation of
the prostate gland—In ammationof the bladder—Vegetations—The chancroid and chancre—
Buboes—Syphilis—Diagnostic difference between the ehancrord and the chancre——Involuntary
figcturnal emrssions—Spermatorrhcsa—Mrsoellaneous disorders affecting emissions, erection and

e semen. 330-334

CHAPTER XXV—Masmmnon.
Its cause, results and cure——Its extent—Its effects on the character and future prospects of the indi-
vidual—~Evidence from the superintendent of a lunatic asylum as to its prevalence——Exciting and
transmitted causes—Signs in the boy. girl or man, that he who runs may read—Home method of
cure and restoration to perfect manhood—Requirements necessary to its prevention. . 365-375

CHAPTER XXVI—Smmm m Imornncn.

Cause, treatment and cure—One of the first laws promulgated by the Almighty, “ Increase and multi-
ly ”—The incapacity to observe this law a source of life-long misery and unhappiness—Sterility,

in most cases, susceptible of removal—Two classes ——Violated physiological laws as causes—How
excess in the newly married results in sterilit y—Why a large proportion of the newly married have

no desire for children—How sterility occurs after the birth of one or two children—Inflammation

'of the uterus as a cause—General debility—Prolapsus and obliquity of the womb as causes—Im-
rforate hymen—Stricture of the vagina—Tumors—Stricture of the neck of the uterus—0b-
iteration of Fallopian tubes—Inflammation of the ovaries—Absence of uterus——-Congenital
shortness of vagina—Undeveloped ovaries—ImpomNCE IN MAN—Lowering of the vital force by
excess—Masturbation—Want of sexual feeling—Non-descent of the testicles—Hernia—Vari-
cooele—-Stricture of the urethra—Obesity—Abnormal condition of theerectlle tissue—A natural
phymosis—Temperament. . . . . . . 376-384
CHAPTER XXVII.—Snn.mcrs or wrnca Moan MIGHT BE SAD). . . . . 885-892

CHAPTER XXVIIL—A Harry anmn LIrE~How SECURED. . . . . 893—410

 

[From the Christian Union,

A new edition of “ The Science of a New Life ” gives us the o portunity of saying that it
seems to us to be one of the wisest and purest and most help of those books which have
been written in recent years with the intention of teaching men and women the truths about
their bodies, which are of peculiar importance to the morals of society. It will be understood
that we here refer to treatises on sexual physiology. N 0 one can begin to imagine the misery
that has come upon the human family solely through ignorance upon this sub'ect. Of course,
only a man who is more than learned, who is wise and good also, can safely. 3 entrusted With
the duty of writing such a book. The spirit in which Dr. Cowan has written is apparently
that of earnest devotion‘to the welfare of mankind.

[From WM. LLOYD Gammon, 30315071.]

On a careful examination of Dr. Cowan’s “ Science of a New Life ” I am prepared to give it
my very cordial approval, and to wish that it might be in the ossession oi the 'two large classes
for whose guidance and happiness‘ it was written, namely, “ a 1 who are marrled, and particu-
larly those who contemplate marriage,” not excepting those who'do not intend or are not hkely
to marry, but who cannot fail to be enlightened and aided by its teaching. It deserves to be
in every family, and read and ondered, as closely relating to the highest moral and physical
well-being of all its members. ith here and there an opinion or a rule that may be question-
able, it is nevertheless a volume admirable for the purity of its tone and purpose, unquestiona-
ably sound in its hygienic directions and physiological averments, and extreme] valuable in
the lessons it inculcates. “ The people perish for lack of knowledge ” is an ancien declaration,
almost as applicable now as when it was first uttered; and it is largely owmg .to a profound ig-
noranee of the law of birth and parentage, and the laws of our ph sical organisation generally,
that “ the lusts of the flesh ” have gained such wide-spread ascen ency that millions of the hu-

vii

 

 

 

man race are suffering both bodily and mental depravation, that the marriage relation has been
so fear-fully violated, and that licentiousness and foul disease are infecting the very life-blood
of the people. The essential remedy for these great evils is to be found in Dr. Cowan’s work;
therefore, may it be circulated far and wide.

Yours, for suffering humanity, WM. LLOYD Ganarson.

[From J has PABTON, the Eminent Biographer and LecturerJ

DEAR Sm: The theme which you have treated, in your work entitled “ The Science of a New
Life,” is certainly one of very great importance. It must be apparent to all observing persons
that we need above all things a physical regeneration-the essential preliminary to a spiritual
one. There are many things in your book that are new to me, and concerning the truth of
which I am not competent to give an opinion; but I cannot doubt that its general purport is
sound, and likely to be beneficial to all who attentively read it. I shall be glad to hear of its
universal circulation. Respectfully yours, J urns Patron.

[From Mas. Errzusrn CADY STANTON]

I have read Dr. Cowan’s work, and made it my text-book in lectures “ to women alone,” for
several years. As it is far easier to generate a race of happy, healthy men and woman than to
regenerate the diseased and discordant humanity we now have, I heartily recommend the study
of " The Science of a New Life ” to every mother in the land.

Errzunrn Cunt Srmron.

[Extract of a letter from Rosnnr Dun OWEN to the Author]

I thank you much for the brave book you were so kind as to send me. The subjects upon
which it touches are among the most important of any connected with Social Science, and the
world is your debtor for the bold stand you have taken.

Yours sincerely, ROBERT DALE OWEN.

[From the Pastor and People, WM. M. CORNELL, M. D., LL. D., Editor.)

The external and internal beauty of the book and its numerous illustrations, in such contrast
with the mass of catchpenny works relating to similar subjects, is in harmony with the ideal
of purity, health and happiness, with which the author seeks to invest the domestic and conjugal
states, and by which especially to lay the broad foundation for the health and happiness of the
children which may bless the founders of the new home,—the originators of the New Life.
Without endorsing every idea or expression contained in this volume, which we have carefully
read, we are free to say that its suggestions followed with any reasonable degree of fidelity
would give health to many a wearied wife and wretched husband; would bring peace to many
a disturbed and troubled ome, and confer blessings on many children yet unborn. “The Sci-
ence of a New Life ” is no cheap medium for the advertisement of drugs, nostrums and hum-
bugs, but it is a sensible, interesting book, containing nothing to offend the purest mind, but
ministering to the interests of virtue, health and religion, and profitable to all who may read it.

[From DR. DIo LEWIS, of Boston, the well-known Author and Lecturer.]

Dn. Gowns—Dear sir: I have read your work, “ The Science of a New Life. I have more
than read it—I have studied, I have feasted upon it.

During the last twenty years I have eagerly sought everything upon this most vital subject,
but I have found nothing which approaches in simplicity, elicac , earnestness and power this
work. On my own account, and in behalf of the myriads to W cm your incomparable book
will carry be e and life, I thank you.

For years have been gathering material for such a work. Constantly I have a plications
for the book, which years ago I promised the public. N owI shall most conscientiously and joy-
fully send them to you. I am most respectquy yours, D10 LEWIS.

[From Rev. Oeuvres B. Fnormem, of New York]

I have read with care “ The Science of a New Life.” If a million of the married and un-
married would do the same, they would learn man things of deepest import eir welfare.
Not that I am prepared to give it In unqualifie praise; but the substance 6 the book is
excellent, its purpose high, its counse noble its spirit earnest, humane, and pure. I trust it
will have a very wide circulation. Sincerely yours, 0. B. FEOTHINGEAM.

[From the Christian at Work]

This book is remarkable for the fund of hysiological information contained between its
covers, nowhere else attainable, and not to be (1 in its entirety except by those familiar with
the French books on physiology.

[From JUDGE J. W. Emronos, ex-Ghz‘ef Justice of the Supreme Court, New York.

I have read the work “ The Science of a New Life," b Dr. John Cowan, and I ought not to
withhold from you the expression of my approbation o it. I would have given a good deal
for the knowledge it contains in my boy days—some sixty years ago, and I rejoice greatly
that it has at length been put in a form accessible to all. . W. EDMONDB.

 

 

 

 

[From the Index, Framers E. Annorr, Editor.]

Dr. John Cowan’s “ Science of a New Life ” is a work devoted to all that relates to marriage,
and written in a style and spirit that command our unqualified approbation. It is plain, di-
rect, and practical—yet permeated with so deep a reverence for the marriage relation, and so
utter an abhorrence of what we are ashamed to call fashionable abominations, that pruriency
will be rebuked, and the love of purity heightened by its erusal. There can be no question
that physiological knowledge of this character is sorely nee ed by thousands and thousands of
people, whose innocent ofispring must pay the penalty of their parents’ ignorance or vice. To
those who would put a really unexceptionable book on these subjects in the hands of young
persons approaching maturity, we can conscientiously recommend this as one that will enlight-
en without debasing.

[From Moore’s Rural New Yorker.]

“ If ever the reformation of the world is to be accomplished—if ever the millennium of purity,
chastity, and intense happiness reaches this earth, it can only do so through rightly directed
pro-natal laws” Such is the sentiment upon which this book is built up—a sentiment not ad-
mirably expressed, but admirable in its meaning. To a correct understanding of the laws re-
natal and post-natal as also to a more thorough comprehension of what marriage shouldp be,
and what it should accomplish for mutual happiness, these four hundred and five octave pages
by Dr. Cowan must greatly conduce. They are devoted to topics concerning which no person
arrived at years of thoughtfulness should be ignorant. They treat of these topics in a plain,
sensible manner, in language that none but a. prude can object to, and are apparently written
in no spirit of quackery, but for a worthy purpose. Could the book be placed in the hands of
every young person contemplating matrimonyit would assuredly do much good.

[From the Albany Argua]

This excellent work is so superior in style and matter to the numerous worthless books, with
which the country is flooded that we are not willing to let it pass without commending it to the
thoughtful consideration of our readers. Treating of those important topics that refer to the
health and purity of mind and body, ignorance of which, at this enlightened day, is inexcusa-
ble, in a manner earnest and forcible, but chaste and elegant, it is a reliable hygienic and moral
guide. Parents often make a terrible mistake, in not speaking freely to their children of
physiological laws, and of the social and moral evils that ma beset them in life, and too fre-
quently they acquire dangerous information and fatal habits rom corrupt associations. On all
the subjects in which men and women are most deeply interested this book is a sound teacher,
and to married persons its lessons are invaluable.

MY DEAR SIB: I have examined with some attention and very great interest Dr. John
Cowan’s work, “The Science of a New Life ;” and I do not hesitate to say that its moral
teachings are of a pure and high character, and that its general circulation cannot fail to do a
great deal of good. The author has presented so much valuable truth in impressive forms as
to be entitled to the gratitude of all those who desire to see the world redeemed from sensuality
and sin. Yours respectfully, OLIVER J omvsox.

[From the Christian Advocate, New York]

It is a difficult as wall as a delicate task to discuss in a pro er manner the subject of repro--’
duction of a new human life. This the author of this work has undertaken, going into details
of facts and philosophy, with constantly applied suggestions of a physiological, sanitary and
moral character. The method and execution of the work are quite unexceptionable, and many
of its practical suggestions are certainly valuable.

[From DB. H. B. Sroann, Boston, Mass]

“The Science of a New Life ” is both impulse and direction toward noble living and the im-
provement of our race. The physiological knowledge imparted and the wise suggestions made
are of the first importance to all who contemplate marriage and parentage. The ideal of the
author is iafi advance of any other popular writer upon these subjects of whom I have
knowledge. ' purpose is noble, his spirit pure and earnest, his method Simple and clear,
and the whole scope and tendency of the book is practical, and calculated to guide the reader
to health, happiness, and usefulness to his race. I most cordially commend this book to young
men and women particularly. No sub'ect more vital to their well being can occupy their
attention, and no treatise upon it yet pu lished can give them more valuable information. I
desire again to emphasize my conviction that this is the best book of the klnd yet ubhshed.

H. B. ronnn.
[From the Hartford Courant.]

This work is ve difierent from the works that are usually published on this subject. It is
a plain but chaste ook, dealing with the physical problems which most concern all human
beings in the spirit of science and humani y. What we all as society need 1s a better under-
standing of physiology and the laws of health, so that men and women, knowmg these laws
and their own constitutions, can live roperly, in such physical estate as shall produce the best
mental state. This book is a. very va uable contribution to that end.

 

 

 

 

THE SCIENCE OF A NEW LIFE.-

Noted men and women who have endorsed the principles it contains. Copies of the original signatures

will be found on the three following pages.

W Please remember that these signatures, as well, in fact, as all the endorsements the book has

received, have not been secured through favoritism or personal friendship, but entirely and altogether on the
merits of the book.

Rev. E. H. CHAPIN, D. D., Editor “ Christian Leader,” New York.
GRACE GREENWOOD, Author and Lecturer.

FRANCIS E. ABBOTT, Editor “ Index,” Boston, Mass.

Rev. WM. R. ALGER, Author and Lecturer, Boston, Mass.

“ JENNIE JUNE ” CROLY, Ed. “ Demorest’s Magazine,” New York.
Rev. W. T. CLARK, “ The Daily Graphic,” New York.

Rev. WARREN H. CUDWORTH, Boston.

Rev. CHARLES F. DEEMS, D. D., Editor “ Christian Age,” Church
of the Strangers. ‘

Judge J. W. EDMONDS, Ex-Chief Justice of the Supreme Court,
New York.

Rev. 0. B. FROTHINGHAM, New York.

Mrs. FRANCES DANA GAGE, New York.

WM. LLOYD GARRISON, Boston, Mass.

Rev. GEORGE H. HEPWORTH, Church of the Disciples, New York.
OLIVER JOHNSON, '

Dr. DIO LEWIS, Author and Lecturer, Boston, Mass.

Mrs. CLEMENCE S. LOZIER, M. D., Dean of the New York Medi-
cal College for Women.

GERALD MASSEY, Poet and Lecturer, England.

D. D. T. MOORE, Editor “Rural New Yorker,” New York.
Rev. W. H. H. Murray, Boston, Mass.

Hon. ROBERT DALE OWEN.

JAMES BARTON, New York.

WENDELL PHILLIPS, Boston, Mass.

PARKER PILLSBURY‘.

Rev. T. DE WITT TALMAGE, Editor “ Christian at Work.”

MOSES COIT TYLER,

Mrs. CAROLINE M. SEVERANCE, West Newton, Mass.
Hon. GERRIT SMITH.

Mrs. ELIZABETH CADY STANTON, New York.

Dr. H. B. STORER, Boston Mass.

 

The ancients were ever longing and searching for an Elixir Vitae—the Water of life—a. draft of which

would enable them to live forever. “ THE SCIENCE or A NEW LIFE” will unfold to you abetter elixir
than the ancients ever dreamed of in their wildest flights of imagination; for, though it will not enable
you to live forever, yet its pages contain information that, if heeded and obeyed, will endow you with such
a measure of health, strength, purity of body and mind, and intense happiness, as to make you the envied
of mankind—a MAN among men, a WOMAN among women.

 

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A FEW EXTRACTS FROM AGENTS’ LETTERS.

 

To convince applicants of the popular selling nature of “ THE SCIENCE on A NEW
LIFE," and how easy it will be for any person who takes an agency to clear from $30 to
$50 weekly, we herewith append a few short extracts from the very many letters of agents

we have on file at our office.

CLEVELAND MINE, Onto.
SIRS :—I enclose $18 for ten copies of “ The Science
of a New Life.” I got the book and “ outfit” this
noon, and went out the same evening canvassing.
I was out an hour, and got eleven names. I think
if I do as well every day, you Will have no cause to

complain; etc., etc.
E. W. ALLEN.

DUBLIN, OHIO.
GENTLEMEN :—Enclosed find report for two
weeks; I have been very unwell for the past two
days. or I would have taken more orders. Enclosed
is order for 48 books, also draft No. 2945 on Jay
Cook & 00., New York, for $87.30. I deliver these
books by the last of September; the next delivery

the last of October.
Mas. H. A. COREY.
Susq. DEPOT, PA.

DEAR Sms :-I wrote you from Montrose yester-
day; I now write from Susq. Depot, 12 miles dis-

 

 

tant. While at Montrose I secured the names of ,

three of her most prominent men—the only ones I
solicited. Our success, thus far, is very gratifying.
The work is meeting with almost universal favor
among the more highly educated, which gives us
reason to think it will also among the middle classes;
etc., etc. Most truly yours, '
MALLORY & CARPENTER.

STEWARTBVILLE, VA.

GENTS. :—Please excuse me for not reporting
sooner; I did not think it was necessary to report
sooften. Yet I have not been idle. I have can-
vassed about half of the territory you assi ed me,
and have got, up to this date, three hun red and
thirty-six (336) good and responsible subscribers. I
took your plan for it, not to pass a house without
calling. Ithink it best to get partly throu h can-
vassing before I deliver any of the books. think
I can get through by the first of M arch—at any rate
I have agreed to deliver them between the first of
March and the first of April; I hope by that time
to have five or six hundred subscribers. I shall, in
future, report oftener. The ten copies I sent to you
for shortly after receiving my outfit, was to supply
some of my subscribers that were moving West.
You seem to think this a hard work to sell, but I
beg to differ; etc., etc. Yours very truly,

. A. B. SMITH.

WILLIAMSPOBT, PA.
GENTLEMEN :—I trust you will excuse me for not
doing more last week. I could only get a chance to
canvass about two hours, and got eight subscribers.
C. E. GIBBS.

 

 

 

PRAIRIE Crrx, OREGON.
Sms:—I received your book and outfit, and was
delighted on looking through “ The Science of a
New Life.” I think it is the best book I ever read
in my life, and I am certain I can do well, by selling
it in this county. Yours respectfully,
EZRA H. VINSON.

Smsz—I have canvassed three days this week,
and have obtained thirty-eight subscribers. On
this da week I will send you an order with the
money or books. “ The Science of a New Life”
is the book for the people, and I can do better with
it than with any book I have ,lyet canvassed with.

A. E. CAR ER,

Agt. for Carroll Co., Tenn.

 

 

e

BELLEFONTAINE, Omo.
DEAR Sins :—-I received our circular a short
time ago. I have had consi erable to do with can-
vassing in my lifetime, and have sold a great many
books, but yours lPromises the best yield of an I
have seen yet, an I will be greatly rejoiced to e-
come one of your agents. I could not do much be.
fore June, and then I can travel over a good portion
of country. I have seen men who could not sell one
book in a county, I might say, and I went over the
same ground and sold the same book at almost

euery house; etc., etc. Yours truly,
BEN. F. RISE.

 

DULUTH, MINN.
GENTLEMEN :—Enclosed please find draft for $18.
60, accompanying my first order for books. It was
not until yesterday that I could possibly commence
the work of canvassing, and so far the book seems
just the thing. I have twelve names of the first
men of the place, as a start; etc, etc.
Yours truly, W. M. BALL.

 

GAGETOWN, N. 3., CAN.
DEAR Sms :-I received your letters and outfit
January 29th, and was well pleased with “The
Science of a New Life.” I think it the best book I
ever read in my life, and I am certain I can do well
selling it in this county. Though I have been sick
I have seventeen (17) orders to date.“ * *' * I shall

send for a box of books soon.
FREDERICK L. WILLIAMS.

LYONS, N. Y.
GEN'rnmmNz—Yours hearing date of the 11th
inst. is received. I have now ninety-three orders.
I think I can get quite a number more in Lyons.
These are all within the corporation, as I have not
been outside. The course I adopted was to write
down 30 of the most influential men’s names in the
village, and proceeded to get their orders, of which
I took all but three. After this I made alist of
those I thought I could get easily, and did succeed
in getting them nearly all. I then proceeded to
canvass the balance. I think I can get fifty more
orders in Lyons yet. * * * * ""
N. E. CADY.

LOGANsPonr, IND.
GENTLEMEN :—Outflt “ Science of a New Life ”
received. Been to work one anda half da s, and
have done extremely well. Enclosed please nd or-
der No. l with draft in your favor of $55.30 curren-
cy, amount of bill. Respectfulliy,
P. . KESSLER.

ALLIANCE, Omo.
GENTLEMEN :—It is now one week since I received
the sample copy and subscription book of “ The
Science of a New Life.” * * * I have read it care-
fully, and pronounce it the best work I have ever
read upon the subject it treats of, and as above
stated, although having but little time. have met
with good success as far as I have prosecuted the
work. I have now sixteen subscribers for the work

incloth and {rhree in leaflnefl.
ery res c u y yours,
pe G. D. HESTER.

 

 

 

 

Sms:—I have six new subscribers since my last
order for 24. Books all delivered. I have heard
some to whom I sold the book say, that no money
would induce them to part with it.

P. A. MLCOX.

 

We have scores of letters on file containing extracts like the above, in praise of the
good—selling qualities of this book, and to any person desiring an agency, who can conve-
niently call at our office, we will take great pleasure in allowing them to read them.

/

 

 

 

 

MEAN & BOMPANY’S CATALOGUE OF NEW BOOKS.

TWO VALUABLE HAND BOOKS.

THE USE OF TOBACCO

VERSUS

PURITY, CHASTITY, AND SOUND
HEALTH.

'I' O B A C C O .
How its Use Causes Baldness.
How it Produces Dyspepsia and Indigestion.
How it Decays 'the Teeth.
How it Affects Hearing and Seeing.
How it Results in Heart Disease.
How it Causes 3. Fondness for Alcoholic Liquors.
How it Weakens the Memory. —
How (in boys and young men) it Preventsa Growth
into a Perfect Manhood-Dwarfing Heart and
Intellect, Soul and Body.

Every young man who aspires to be somebody—F
to make life a. success, physically, mentally and
morally—should send for, read, and be guided by
the counsels contained in this book.

Mailed for 30 cents; in cloth, 50 cents.

 

INTEMPERANCE :

Irs Fmsnom, PHYSICAL, Maura, Scent. AND
ORAL Eers, AND

ITS CAUSE AND REMEDY.

A L C O H O L .

How it Weakens the Body.

How it Depraves the Mind.

How it Produces Poverty.

How the Taste is Transmitted.

How the Taste is Acquired.

The Effect of its Use on the Young.

Its Use at the Lord’s Table.

Its Use by Physicians.

What Eminent Men Say of it.

How it Drags Down and Degrades the Body and
Soul of all who Touch, Taste, and Handle
the Accursed Thing.

All whose desire it is to help stamp out the evil
of Intemperance, should possess and circulate this
book.

Mailed for 30 cents; in cloth, 50 cents.

BOOKS FOR P‘HRENOLOGISTS.

KNOW THYSELF

Is a handsomely printed little work of 32 pages, and is just the thing in size and matter for travelling

Phrenologists. It 1s furnished at

4 per 100 copies, sample copies 10 cents.

Phrenologists, on using

it. give it the preference over all ot er small charts, not alone for 1ts low price, but for the arrangement

of its contents and its general appearance.

 

SELF-HELP

IN THE

ATTAINMENT 0F PERFECTION OF CHARACTER AND SUCCESS IN LIFE.

BY JOHN COWAN, M. 1).,

Author of “ The Science of a New Life.”

This is one of the best books of the kind ever published. It contains just the information required
by all who desire to GROW UPWAnD. Have you qualities of character that make your daily life miserable,

inharmonious, uncongenial? “ SelfJIelp" will sugge

dencies of mind that lead or tempt you to do men
fellow-man? “ Self-Help " by its suggestions ‘

know what business it is best for you to follow in order to succeed in life ?

st to you how they may be remedied. Have you ten-
ln any of the many relations you hold toward your
aid you into a purer morality. Are you at a loss to

This book will furnish you

with the elements necessary to decide rightl and secure success. Are you unsuccessful in your business

aims”! This book will show you the cause 0
royal road of Wealth, Health, and Happiness.

your non-success, and furnish you the stepping-stones to the

The location is given of all the mental organs. and their combinations, and it is thus an excellent aid
to the study of Phrenology, as well as to the study of one’s self. . . .
It has a table for recording developments, and practising Phrenologlsts Wlll, on using the book, find

that it glveeaexoellent satisfaction.

Bonn in extra English cloth, bevelled boards, gilt side stamp, 159 pa es. over 40 illustrations, print-
ed on heavy tinted paper from .new types, Price $1. To Phrenologists, y the quantity at a. large dia-

count. Mailed on receipt of price.

 

Address all ctders to

COWAN & 00.,

REFORM BOOK PUBLISHERS.

139 EIGHTH STREET, New York.

 

 

 

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WHAT iEEATTlND HOW TO COOK. IT.

WITH RULES FOR

PRESERVING, CANNING, AND DRYING FRUITS AND VEGETABLES.

fir THE frUTHOR OF “THE SCIENCE on A New LIFE."

 

There are scores of Cook Books in the market, but it is a question if the ingredients and the mixtures
and wmbinations they ofi‘er as “recipes” do not, when used as food, result in suffering, rather than in
health and vigor.

This book diflers from that class of Cook Books in that it aims to give, in a plain and understandable
way, the kind of food that it is best to eat in order to gain and sustain health and strength, and a mode
of cooking it that will make it at once palatable, nutritious and wholesome. Its contents, in part, are as
follows: - ’

Wheat and its Preparations—25 diiferent methods of cooking.

Corn and Eye, and their Preparations—38 difi‘erent methods of cooking.

Oats and its Preparations—7 different methods of cooking.

Buckwheat and its Preparations.

Barley and its Preparations.

Rice and its Preparations 10 different methods of cooking.

Sago, Tapioca and Arrowroot, and their Preparations.

Potatoes and their Preparations—16 different methods of cooking.

Peas and Beans, and their Preparations—l4 different methods of cooking.

Turnips, Carrots, Parsnips and Artichokes, and their Preparations.

Onions, Leeks, Garlic, etc., and their Preparations. ’

Cabbage, Cauliflower, Spinach, Greens, etc., and their Preparations.

Apples, Pears, Quinces, Grapes, and their Preparations——60 ways of pre-
preparing and cooking.

Raisins, Figs, Cucumbers, Melons, Pumpkins, Tomatoes, and their
Preparations.

Pies—How to make them healthfully.

Gravies and Sauces—l2 different kinds, without grease or spices.

Food and Drink for the Sick ——-With directions for making delicious Unfennented Wine.

Water—Giving directions whereby every house can have pure soft water. '

Rules for Eating——A very important chapter.

Objectionable Articles of Diet—Equally important and necessary for all to know.

Poisons in Daily Use—Exposing the different methods of adulterating food, and how to
detect them. ,

Preserving, Canning, and Drying Fruits and Vegetables.

 

As will beseen, this book differs, in mode of arrangement and method of cooking food simply and
healthfully, from any Cook_ Book heretofore published.

It gives 15 different recipes for making healthful, nutritious and palatable Bread, without the aid of
yeast or baking powder.

It gives 16 diflerent styles. for healthfully cooking Potatoes. _

It gives 25 modes of making Biscuit, and 30 methods of making and cooking Puddings, without the
use of soda, grease, etc.

It gives 12 methods of cooking Apples.

Very important information is contained under the head of “Objectionable Articles of Diet,” and it
tells all about Poisons in daily use, and how to detect them.

The article on “ The Home Method of Preserving, Canning, and Drying Fruits and Vegetables,” is not
to be found in any other Cook Bookpublished, and is of itself worth thrice the price asked for the book.

Finally. it is so arranged that, if a housekeeper has only one or two articles in the house to prepare a.
meal with, she can find out by this book the best method of cooking such articles in a palatable, inviting
and healthful manner. _ _

{6‘ If. you wish to avoid sickness and live healthfully, by eating food cooked and prepared in a sim-
ple and inv1tmg manner, send for

WHAT TO EAT AND HOW TO COOK IT.

125 Pages. Bound in cloth, gilt side stamp, price 50 cents; in paper, 30 cents.

 

Mailed, on receipt of price, by the Publishers,

COWAN & 00.,
139 EIGHTH STREET, New York.

 

 

 

 

 

THE MANAGEMENT OF INFANOY.

PHYSIOLOGICAL AND MORAL. _
INTENDED CHIEFLY FOR THE USE OF PARENTS.
BY ANDREW COMBE, M. D.

 

This is, without doubt, one of the very best books on the Care and Management of Infancy that has
ever been published—a book that no mother who desires to rear her children, from infancy upward, in per-
fect health, should be without. To young mothers it is simply invaluable. and will pay for itself a thous-
and times over, in the practical information it contains. There are few families that are not continually
incurring expense for doctor’s fees. for attendance on their little ones. The parents who follow the easily
comprehended rules in Dr. Combe’s “ Management of Infancy” will save all doctors’ fees, as well, oft-
times, as the lives of their loved ones.

 

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.——Iufluence of the Constitution of Parents on the Health of the Children.
“ II.—Influence of the Mother’s Mode 'of Living during Prenancy on the Health of the Child. ~
“ , III.—Great Mortality in Infancy produced by Removable Causes, and increased by Parental
gnorance.
“ IV.—Infant Health not Accidental, but Dependent on Fixed Laws.
“ V.—On the Constitution of the Infant at Birth.
“ VI.~—Management of the Infant Immediately after Birth.
“ VIL—Food of the Infant. .
“ VIII.—Cleanliness, Exercise, and Sleep in early Infancy.
“ XI.——Choice and Regimen of a Nurse.
“ X.—A_rtiflcial Nursing.
“ IX.——The Nursery and Conditions Required in it.
“ XII.—-Management of the Infant during Teething.
“ XIII.—Management of the Child from Weaning to the end of the second year.
“ XIV.——The Mental Constitution, and Principles of Training in Infancy
“ XV.—Moral Education in Infancy and Childhood. .

 

NOTICES.

[From Peterson’s Ladies’ Magazine.]

This is stated to be the first American edition of a valuable book, with which we were familiar more
than twenty years ago. and which may be said to be the text book, and to contain the gem of all good
works on the subject since. It is as complete a guide as a book can be out of the wilderness of ignorance
to the promised land of assured knowled 9. Of late years much attention has been paid to physiological
subjects in schools and otherwise; but it is still common enough for the great responsibility of mother-
hood to find the young recipient so unprepared that her first blissful thrill is mingled with dismay. Per-
haps she has never touched a baby—feels as fearful of deranging its tender mechanicism as any man
would be; yet, all alive to the importance of the charge, enters upon. her sacred vocation with the silent
resolve and concentration of her whole being. With the sound, sensxble and practical directions of An-
drew Combe, faithfully studied and kept for reference, she is sure of success. Her sense of incapacity, in
view of the infinite nature and looming-up magnitude of the risks, at first, is nothing short of appalling;
but the resolute undertaking of her novel duties soon change all that. She can snap her fingers at the
self-complacent nurse, who has seemed to her helpless, quivering apprehension, a very rock of refuge, and
rejoice at her departure that leaves the precious midget undisputed to its natural care-taker.

[From The New York Heraldd

We can heartily recommend this book as containing all the information on the management of infancy
that the inexperienced young mother needs, and of all things, longs for. She need not tremble for the
consequences of having neglected this important part of a woman’s education until the very time to practise
it has come. With so capable a teacher she will master all difficulties, and feel her position so assured as
to defer to no one in the noble professorship with which God has graciously endowed her.

 

PRICES.

It is printed in large, readable 'type, from new electrotype plates, and bound in stiff
boards, at only ’75 cents per copy—making it the cheapest book ever published. It can
also be had, handsomely and durably bound in cloth, at $1.50 per copy.

 

W Remember this edition is from the tenth London edition, revised by a New York physician, and
is the only complete, thorough, and unabridged editon published. See that our Imprint is on

the title page. Address
. COWAN & COMPANY,
(Between Broadway and Fourth Ave.) 139 EIGHTH STREET, New York.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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