y Fille mpi 0 win init didn in t ir a a SERE neenee aaa ain Cinb arn anion ate deri d a cam acnes ie nne me cil a t Ped mat o a P e en roel Whims "2 "T0 Lag ation A * * \ - § R ; E e Bee. : s % - E a : s e 3 5 a a a -+ e z - § s . f x a Ces * a bar 4 * aie 6 a I e a reg mgs aa nan p mre we e phen eer L eouel . 1000 oona di rien," 2+ _. n c acc oll c o UTIL Aue eee teat N n c te?" EL e ints. .cc AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. GAZELLA THOMSONTI. | & NR 33 uo 2 *> 5 of oul Co a Nfs 33 H. M. STANLEY. AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION A8 TOLD BY PVS EXPLORERS MUNGO PARK CLAPPERTON THE LANDERS BARTH BARKIE BURTON CAPELLO STANLEY SPEKE SCHWEINFURTH GRANT NACHTIGAL MOHR IVEN LIVINGSTONE SERPA PINTO BAKER THOMSON KERR EMIN WITH 600 ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS voLU ME 11 £0 N D O N SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON AND COMPANY ST DUNSTAN'$ HOUSE, FETTER LANE, KC. ,.4q/ A (¥ .) CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Farini. THs Kapamart DEsErT CHAPTER IL Oraxnar RivEr CHAPEER EEL. Burton. Amoxa tHE Fix CANNIBEALS AND THE GORILLAS . CHAPTER Iv. A SprEomEx Day with THE Fix CaAxXNIBALS CHAPTER v. Mr., Mrs., aAxp MastEr CHAPTER VI. Tar Coxgo In 1863 CHAPTER VII. THE YELLALA or THE Coxco CHAPTER VIII. LiviIncgsroNrE® anD StaxuEy on LAKE TANGANIKA ‘\.(\,\Qs) ) J C /d he % 18-37 88-46 47-71 72-84 85-117 118-130 131-178 Vill CONTENTS. CHAPTER IX. Stanley. Rounp LAKE VICTORIA NYyANZA . C a F $ s CHAPEIER X, Ix UGANDA AND DOWN THE Wrst SpE or VICTORIA NYyANZA CHAPTER XI. LiirrE axp MaxxErs in UaaxnDA . CHAPTER XII. Karagaw? AnD ITs GENTLE King 5 F F1 CHAPTER XII, UJJI AND TANGANIKA CHAPTER XIV. Tnr RivEr THat Frowrp NortH, NorTH, NoRTH * CHAPTER XV. Dowx Tsr Congo to THE AtuaxntIc . s P s CHAPTER XVI. STILL RUNNING THE GAUNTLET oN THE RivEr . a CHAPTER XVII. DEATH or Frank Pocock . CHAPTER XVIII, Out Into tur ATLANTIC CHAPTER XIX,. Thomson. MasaAt Laxp PAGES 174-216 217-276 277-8308 309-837 338-893 394-426 427-462 463-493 494-508 509-546 547-576 MST OF FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS--YOL. if. Conse- Portrait of Mr. H. M. Stanley % Frontispiece To face l To face page | page Hill Bushmen F o 4 | Pot Pourri N M s 304 Dirk and Klas _ . * 16 | Canoes and Paddles of Africa . i Portrait of G. A. Farini 24 | Missionary with Escort on the March 320 Diamond Falls % 32 | Mtesa's Palace *A 328 The Hunter's Return __. * 40 | Murchison Falls 336 The Yellala of the Congo River 56 | View of Ujiji £ f &_ 844 The Buffalo maugles his Enemy - . - 72 | A Demoustration on the Road to Travellers on the Congo caught in a Ujiji. * s s a -' 909 Gale of Wind _. F __ 80 | Official Visit from the Arabs at Ujijt . 860 View of Yellala Falls _. $1 | View near Ujijii . i s ;, ~ 8G8 Conical Huts on the Congo $5 | The . High Places" -- View of Fishing Nets on the Congo 96 Mtombwa Urungu 3 ~ "876 Street in a Congo Village e ._ 104 | African Palm > a & . 884 Looking down the Congo from Isan- | In Council: the Courtyard of our ila f R f * - 112 | . Tembé at Ujiji . a a ..' 802 Mode of executing Slaves on the | The Cireumnavigators of the Victoria Congo s * X a -_ 120 | __ Nyanza and Lake Tanganika, and A Dose of Physic . k § . 136 | - Explorers of the Alexandra, Nile, Stanley's Interpreter _ . * . (144 1. . and Iivingstone (Congo) River 400 Our Levée at Magala s ._ 152 | The Women of the Expedition 408 Stanley's encounter with an Elephant 160 | Canoe Making % > % 416 On Lake Tanganika - Homeward | "Lady Alice " in the Rapids . &_ 424 Bound - . *A a 168 | The Natives, with their Heads gaily View of Bagamoyo > R 176 ’ feathered and armed with Broad »» - of Zanzibar from the Sea 184 | Black Wooden Shields, &e. . - 440 Stanley's Companions 192 | A Fight with the Cannibals of Amu- A Walled City _ . i 200 |. ~ Nyam R b ; $ -. 458 View of Ugombo Lake . f &_ 208 | At Work passing the Lower End of Stanley's Reception by King Mtesa's | _ the First Cataract of the Living- Body Guard # C . 216 f stone Falls f s a 464 Salt Traders . > 224 | The Desperate Situation of Zaidi 472 Arabs attacking Village. 232 | Landscape on the Livingstone near Pot Pourri . f s s . 240 | - Kygo-Keba s 480 Mutiny % A a § & 248 | A Wild Pine Apple 504 "* You drop that!". 7 % 256 | Congo Grasses _ . * a -.. 818 Reception at Bumbireh Island 264 | Group of Mr. Stanley's Followers Great Naval Battle ¥ 272 after crossing the Dark Continent 528 Ripon Falls . * a s 280 | Portrait of Mr. Joseph Thomson 544 Rubaga-Capital of Ug inda . 288 | Kilimanjaro ; . % 552 Mtesa's Amazons . y 296 | On the War Path in Masai Land 568 LIST OF TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS-VOL, 11. ---4@4-- PragB Gazella Thomsoni. $ ii | Fetish Boy . + a Buffalo Horns xii | A By-Yanzi . a *A s R Some Kalahari W 11d Fowl 2 | Banks of the Congo R Wall Drawings in Hill-Busamen's A Congo Station s F Cave e 4 s : 5 | A Busundi A Old Kert § y 7 | Grass Apron . s A Victim 9 | Some Inhabitants uf the ( Jongo View of the Dk‘belt near lxmb 11 | Congo Chief Head of the Hartebeest . 13 | Cascades a * View on the Kalahari Desert . 15 | Chicken Seller The First Bath for many Months 19 | A Batoka Farini Falls and Towers ¥ 23 | Stanley's Guides The Anna Falls _. & 27 | Women Grinding Corn Scott Gorge and Falls 81 | Weapons of War Schermbriicker Falls 33 | A Village Gate Hundred Falls 36 | (nil'lllltit Sycamore a Native House “1th a F «mm (nunp so | U iiji Cow, &c. View of a Banana Garden f 11 1 An Idol , Weaver Birds and Nests 43 | Daggers and Spear rheads A Congo Dandy _. 45 | (noup of Natives . A + Festivities |. * a 47 | Bird's Eye View of a Tembe . Defiance 49 1 Youthful Warriors. Native Pipes 51 | Ugogo Man and Woman Fin Head-dress 538 | A Lake Village a> Warrior 57 ~ Bridging a Stream . Drum . > 57 | Lion in the Grass . f The Cannibal 59 | Fishes of the Tanganika Trophy of Native African Handieraft - 61 | 3s $% 4% * § in Old Calabar -. 63 | From Zanzibar to Bagamoyo . Tattooing | . . E 156, 67 | The Expedition Old Calabar Tactm ics . - 68 | Kagehyi Off to the War 69 | Frank Pocock s X Peculiar Rock For mation 71 | "Lady Alice" in Sections Strangers in the Camp 72 | Uledi and Manwa Sera . Footprints of the Gorilla 74 | Wife of Manwa Sera __. Du Chailla's First Gorilla 76 | Sama-Uloa, Fish found in Lake Vic- Capturing a Young Gorilla 77. toria . Female Gorilla and her Young 80 | Ugogo, Fish found in Lake V uturm Mohiego Mbouvé "| Br “1m Island African Leopard 83 | Muyamw 0/1 Pagazi View on the Congo 85 | Universities' Mission at Mbwenni Congo, looking North 87 W iew of Ulamboya % 3s South 90 | Camp at Ulpwapwa The Kingdom of Congo . 92 | New Church on Site of Old Slave- Bateké Natives __. 95 Market, Zanzibar Old Chief in Native made Hat 98 -_ Strange Granite Rock Congo Village 100 | Our Landing Place Group of Congo Natives 103 | A Floating Fortlet | 181 183 185 187 189 191 196 198 201 205 207 209 214 216 218 LIST OP TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS. Musical Instruments Horn and Flute Uganda Drums Guitars One-stringed Banjo One of Mr. Stanley's Lonnpmlom— Bull . A * Serombo Huts A Ruga-Ruga One ot the W atuta Mtesa, the Emperor of U 111th, Coast of Speke Gulf A o h Ripon Falls, looking North _. % 53 outh 'I he V letorm Nile . Mtesa's Flotilla crossing Lalu Vic- toria . & Wooden Mllk Vest ls Drinking Vessels . Wooden Bowls and Platu Wooden Dishes Wooden Stools \\ coden Cup and Bowls . Earthenware Cooking Pots Uzimba House , Trophy of Uganda Nlneld~ &e. Unyamwezi Hut Cairn erected to the A WIemoxy of Fre- derick Barker s R a Stew Pot 3 Landing-place on the hymn Unyamwezi Clubs, &e. s Spears, Shields, &c Wangwana Huts Canoes 4 Audience Hall of thc Palace s Fish Nets _. A Warrior of Lkeruwc Woman's Breasts . r Small Tembe Uganda Hut x Storage for Grain . a Stool Mount Edwm Arnold Hut of Karagwé, Uddu . s Mr. Stanley and his large followmv journeyed Westward . % Rumanika's Treasure House . A Native of Uhha . View of Ufumbiro Heights House, Ukerewé Women with Coils of Brass work Drum Ground Plan 'of ng s House Napoleon Channel, Lake Victoria Native of Rua H F % Manyema Village . Kungwé Peaks Manyema Women . Extreme Southern Reach of Lake Tanganika § rage 220 221 2283 225 227 229 231 288 230 237 239 243 245 249 252 254 256 258 260 262 264 XI PAGE Mtombwa 978 Mount Murumbi 877 Uguha Headdress . 381 Ubnjwe and Uguha Hea ' dress 383 Woman of Uflnhn s 885 Uhyeya Headdress 887 The Spirit Island . s 389 Camp on Lake Tan ganika S91 Native Huts at Mth n 894 Natives of Ubujweé 397 Native of Uhyeya. s 899 Back view of a Wahy L311- 401 Manyema Youth 403 s Adult i 403 Young Woman 404 Mpunfm Chief s 405 Uregga House 407 btool of Uregga 407 Spoons of Uregga . 407 Uregga Spear 409 Cane Settee . 409 Bench . 409 Fez of Leopand Skin 411 | Forge and Smith . 413 | Heads for the North 1nd the Lnalalm 415 Wagenya Fisherman's Canoe 417 Backgannnon Tray 419 War Hatchet and Sto »1 421 A River Island 423 Panicum Grass Hut 427 Monster Canoe 429 Knives . & 433 Towards the Unknown # 435 War Drums . 437 King of Chumlnrl 439 A Queen of Chumbni 441 A Prince of Chumbiri 443 To avoid a Cataract .: A485 Loss of Canoe and Crew $5 447. Waterfall on the Livingstone . 451 Livingstone and Stanlcv Canoes 453 View from the Livingstone Table-land 435 Mwana Ntaba Canoe 2 459 Edwin Arnold Falls 461 Paddle of the Aruwimi Camnbals 462 We lose our Chief Carpenter * 463 Baswa Knife $ % . 468 Style of Knives 468 Baswa Basket and Cover 468 |_ Canoe Seoops a Palm Oil Jar and Cooler 475 Ituka Shield s % 477 Double Iron Bell 479 Cavern near Karombo Island 485 5 | The King's Great Pi pe .. 487 Seventh Cataract- Hunky Falls 491 Pike-Stanley Falls < 493 | Fish-Seventh Cataract . 495 f ¥ * 497 Livingstone Falls . 501 Passing the Falls . 505 MAPPA DE KRAPF. REBMANN. LIVINGSTONE.& ERHARDT _ 1849-56. ai al % e- $.. ~ € __ ta .~ ao auta . | | | | | I | | I anqVL f*, \ I a | 3 | | | ‘ | f f % | eme rn ea e tele es enne} _- {---# 1 - est eat ole , l a" i | | | | { % soa | I L ( ; @ 1 - ”Tait i 7A K ' | | , | ; § is l 0} —-'-t~ j‘ a-~——~~—-§§§wofo}l—~~A __-_-~-~-_{______ ann n krn erez _ __} «'—'~-—v~~ ,- - + ___ __ ffi ___ ~f. wréfi‘ § _ Krapt. 1840 i- Rebmart; 1543 Woos 1 - AIVIMGStOTE, 185 64 # se m'n« "4 ae ;___“_ meen. ssamedes, } L cera nid ae eldis el atea Betta aa ——5L o M4~4%"" Last from 20 Greenwich London ;Sampsen.Low & Co limited . AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION, A8 TOLD BY ITS EXPLORERS, CHAPEER I. THgr Karagart Desert. BrrorE leaving South Africa, we may give a few pictures of life and sport in the so-called Kalahari Desert, in the region around Lake Ngami. As will be seen from the extracts from Mr. G. A. Farim's "Through the Kalahari Desert," the tegion is not so barren as its designation implies. In 1885, Mr. Farini made a journey from the Cape across the Orange River to Lake Ngami, during which he met with various adventures. In the following narrative he gives some of the incidents which happened when he was lost in the desert. I had gone on about three hours, when the sun's rays became too much for me, and I put down my burden and rested for a while. How I longed for a cup of water, for a sama, for anything to quench my thirst! Presently I climbed a high sand-dune, hoping to spy some landmark, some sign by which I could steer myself back to the waggons. Here and there I fancied I could trace my previous footsteps when in chase of the ostriches, but the marks were almost obliterated, and they might be the track of some other person. _ This thought gave me some hope, for it might be that Lulu, Kert, and the rest were looking for me : I would keep as much as possible on the high ground, but it was hard work climbing up and down, and the heat of the sun was stupefying. . What would YOL. 11. B 2 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. I not give for a drink of water |! It was now past noon, so that I must already have walked six hours beneath the almost scorching rays of the sun; I was getting faint for want of food and wi iter, and I might Pug also add - faint-hearted k“ Jo from anxiety. The sand- H J dunes were all alike, and f I had so completely lost my way that, for all I y A knew, I might be walk- M H“ “WWI“ 1 ing further and further &" [ away, or going round and 9 . rough inha “£1510, instead L of getting nearer to the [f waggon. In the hope o (“affirm the salivary \ Wf glands, 1nd cooling my pf udled mouth, I h: ad put a button on my tongue ; ' || but the sinking sensation, | |T caused by want of food, made me feel giddy, and 4 1,” this tendency was in- ') creased by my growing . | § anxiety. I felt I must i [M [J rest for a bit, and try to Ml ll“ I’,‘ 1 M F | |( [ find some food. Knowing “hi [ II "Viv N‘ WM 1 that the inchies (roots) li I I a‘ ‘ 1, i gun were generally good to m 1 [1 eat before they were in NENEBCY! "’ [@ flower, I searched for Son wih Fowt. some, and tried to eat them raw ; but they were so unpalatable that I had to make a little fire and cook them in the hot sand. I managed to eat a few, and found they not only assuaged my thirst, but relieved me of the dizziness that had been growing upon me; and after sitting still for half an hour I felt better, and climbed up a sand-hill, on the other side of which I could see a herd of gems-bok grazing. MN fl dy . m Hill “u THE KALAHARIL DESERT 3 If I could only get near enough to kill one of the cows, I might manage to get a little milk or some blood to drink. I was too weak to attempt to stalk them, so waited patiently, in the hope that they might come within range, as they were grazing towards me. At last they got within about eighty yards, and, taking a steady aim at one of the cows-they are easily dis- tinguished by their horns being thinner and more tapering than those of the bucks-I fired, and shot her dead in her tracks. Sending two other shots after the flying herd, I rose to my feet, but my head swam, and only by stopping every now and then, and leaning on my rifle for support, could I drag myself along to where the dead cow lay. My tongue and throat were on fire, and I longed for a drink of water, of milk, of blood, of anything to drown the scorching, choking sensation ; but I was doomed to disappointment. I felt my hands and face begin to swell, a cold shudder passed through my frame, and my trembling knees refused to support me. Suddenly the earth seems to tip up, and all is black. - I am falling, but my arms drop helpless at my side, and I can do nothing to save myself- So faint I am, my tottering feet No more my trembling frame can bear ; My sinking heart forgets to beat, As drifting sands my tomb prepare. My only feeling is that of burning of the entire body. Those roots, that . I thought so comforting, were poisonous, and this is the beginning -of the "send.. I can feel a numbness growing over me, alternating now and then with the terrible burning sensation. Yes ; this must be death. I had not the slightest power to move a limb, but my brain became more and more active. Past, present, and future seemed mingled in one rapid mental panorama, and I began to wonder whether my body would ever be found, or whether I should become the prey of lions and jackals, while picturing to myself the dismay of poor Lulu and the others, when they found I did not return. I was B 2 4 RHTFTRICA AND ITY EXPLORATION. seized with terrible griping pains in the stomach, and a feeling of nausea arose, and as it increased the numb- ness and burning sensation diminished. - Death was not going to be calm and easy. Instead of a narcotic, it was an irritant poison I had taken, and instead of quietly passing away as in a dream, I was to have a struggle with the grim seythe-bearer. f I tried to raise my hand to put my finger down my throat, but found I still had no power of voluntary motion. Then another sharp spasm drew my legs up, and the muscles of my throat and stomach began to move. Vomiting took place, and then I felt easier. The cramp pains ceased, and I began to have hope that I should cheat old Death after all. I began to breathe more easily. But the burning sensation, in- side and outside, remained, and then the feeling super- vened that it was only a short respite. Death would claim his victim in the end, for if I remained here long inanimate the wild beasts would find me before the night was over, Perhaps it was already night. I could not see; I could not feel; but I could think and breathe, and hear; and I listened, listened, listened for the slightest sound-for any stealthy footfall, for a rustling in the tall dry grass, for the quick sniff of a beast of prey scenting out its quarry, and for the short growl of delight with which it welcomes its discovery. Hark! there are footsteps; a quick rustle of the grass, and then a pause; nearer it approaches, then stops again ; closer and closer comes the sound, varied now by a quick, short bark. Is it jackal or hyena that has thus tracked me oub? If I am hitten, and my blood flows, perhaps this will restore me to con- sciousness, and to the power of motion. _ Oh, if I could but move ; if I could but open my eyes, and reach my gun ; if I could hut shout, no cowardly jackal, no sneak- ing hyena should taste my flesh. But there may be a lion near. If so a sudden spring will soon put an end to my suspense. He will grab me by the shoulder, shake me as a dog does a rat, and carry me off to his Yor, IL HILL-BUSHMEN. To face p. 4. THE KALAHARI DESERT 5 lair. Shall I wake up and feel the grip of his teeth, and the laceration of his claws, or shall I merely hear him tearing my flesh, and erushing my bones, without feeling the pain? Stay ! there is a whining noise close at hand ; now comes the snuffling sound of some animal ; a quick breathing in my ear. There is no escape. In another moment his teeth will meet in my flesh. I might have met with a more painful death, but hardly with a more horrible one. I had always said I should like to die with my boots on : one must meet death A //” /, 2." // ala Ms i 70 WALL DRAWINGS IN HILL-BUSHMEN'S CAVE. some time, and the exact way and whereabouts are not of much importance. But still this suited me a little too much. The idea of travelling all these miles to become food for wild beasts, of knowing that my last moment had come, and yet lying powerless to move a muscle to save myself-this was more than I had bargained for. Hark ! I can hear another distant sound ; my prowling visitor is waiting for his friends to come to the feast. Stay! Is that a roar? No! That is a human voice "Bull! Bull!" It is Kert's voice, calling to my dog. Now the whining at my side has ceased, and I can hear Bull barking, in answer 6 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. to Kert's call. It was he that was standing beside me a moment ago, and now he has gone to tell him he has found me. - He barks famously as quu'k footsteps approach, and then I hear Kert exclaim, " Maak goe ; die. is dooed " (Be quick ; masteris dead !). _ Will they think I am really dead ? Shall I be buried alive, instead of being torn to pieces ? "He is cold. He has died of thirst." "* No; he cannot be dead. This gemas-bok is not cold ; he must have shot it, and those were the three shots we heard about an hour ago." «"Yes; perhaps he wounded the gems-bok, and, getting too near, has been killed by its horns. Let us lift him up and see. Ah! here is blood on the sand ; and here is his water-can-empty. - He would not believe me when I told him a man could not live a day hunting on these sands without water. But now he knows if. Pour Sieur !" R Then I heard Kert talking in Bushman language ; evidently he was giving the Bushmen orders what to do. But where was Lulu? Perhaps searching for me in another direction. They were now quite certain I was dead, and perhaps they were going to bury me before they went back to look for 111111 l‘hen in good Dutch I heard Kert say, " Oons moet hom bring nahe de vaar" (We must carry him to the waggon) I did not feel them touch me; but I soon heard the tramp of their feet, and could tell from their talk that they were carrying me to the waggon. Now all would depend on Lulu's judgment. "But perhaps I should not reach the waggon alive. It seemed an age before I heard Lulu's voice shouting in the dlstame "Have you found him ?" A solemn " Yah" was all the answer. "Is he hurt? Put him down easy. What is the matter with him? Speak, Kert!" Lulu called out passionately. _ " Speak !" No reply came. " My God! is he dead ?" "* Ek wit nie; Ek denk so " (I don't know; I think so). THE KALAHARL DESERT. 7. *It cannot be !" said Lulu. " Here, lef me feel ms pulse. Jan ! run and fetch me the looking-glass, quick ! while I open his shirt. He cannot be dead ; it is not possible. - Here, feel here, he is warm." f " Here is the glass, sit," said Jan, in a half-whisper. I wonder why it is that every one always speaks in a whisper in the presence of the dead. Is it that they OLD KERT. are afraid of waking them ? Here was I only half dead, and yet they could not wake me. «" Hold the light here! Thank God he breathes : the glass is wet; he is alive. Bring me the brandy ; we must pour some down him. Fetch me a spoon. Kert, tell those Bushmen to rub his legs and feet and hands, like this!" and Lulu evidently showed them what to do; but I could feel nothing. 8 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. «" How stiff his limbs are! I'm afraid we have found hinf too late. Rub away hard! Jan, rub his hands like this. - Now, Kert, lift him up while I give him the brandy. «"How tight his teeth are set together! I don't know how to give him the brandy. - Hold his head over that way. Good ; I think he has swallowed some. Give me the bottle, Jan : the spoon is between his teeth. Now he has had a good dose. Lay him down gently ; now we must all rub as hard as we can !" That was his favourite cure for everything. Pre- sently a pricking sensation came into my hands and feet, like " pins and needles "; then I could feel the friction of their hands. Old Death had knocked at my door too soon, and would have to call again ! « Rub away i" ceried_ Lutu.. *I can feel the ficsh getting warm. Look, his lips are moving! He is coming to." He will not die !" With my sense of touch, my sight also began to return, and I could see a diffused kind of light like when you look at the sunlight with your eyes shut. I tried to close my eyes, but could not. I still had no power to move, nor could I speak, though I could feel my lips trembling. Then they lifted me up again and more brandy was poured into my moutlhy; this time could feel them lifting me, and tried to help myself, (but could not, .I attempted to swallow, but failed, though I felt the brandy going down my throat; a few minutes later, however, I could open and shut my eyes, and then recovered the use of my tongue and throat muscles. The first thing I said was " Castor oil," which Lulu administered in the same way as the brandy. Luckily I could not taste it. An hour or so later I could move my hands and arms, and before day- light was able to sit up. All was dark, save for the dim light of the lamp, by the aid of which I could see what a look of satisfaction came over Lulu's face as I gazed round and said, " I'm all right; give me some- thing to eat." He had been watching me all the night, and had anticipated my want by having a tin of warm THE KALAHARI DESERT, 9 soup ready. This had such a soothing effect upon me that I fell asleep, and did not wake again till the sun was well up, to find them all sitting round me with anxious faces. " What is the matter ?" I asked. « Matter," said Lulu; " you must tell us that. How are you ?" «" Oh ! I am all right, thanks to you all, except for a A VICTIM. feeling of weakness. Cive me some more soup." And then I told them all about it. " By the bye," I added, "let the Bushmen go and fetch the feathers and skin, and that gun-not forgetting the skull." "They will not touch the skull or the gun either," said Kert. +" They all believe that is the cause of your being sick." So Jan was sent with them, and while he was gone Lulu gave me particulars of the hunt which had like to have ended so tragically. 10 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. By next day I was quite well again, and felt no trace of my recent adventure. 'The pans were now fast drying up, and we passed some that contained nothing but mud ; by scooping a hole we managed to get a little liquid earth, to which we could add a little alum, in order to precipitate some of the suspended matter. 'This had the effect of throwing down a good deal of the mud, but did not by any means clear it, and at best it was more like clay soup than water. Even when "clarified" it looked for all the world like milk-and-water. " You might imagine yourself in London," said Lulu, " with this genuine chalk-and- rater-milk-ho !"-and he uttered an unearthly yell that would have done credit to any milk-purveyor's assistant, as he handed in the essence of clay with which we were condemned to make our matutinal coffee. Not having served my apprenticeship among the Guamo Indians, and not being afflicted, like an Irish- man, with "earth-hunger," I confess I did not like coffee & la Kalahari, and could not take more than one cup 'at a meal. Lulu, however, thirsty soul that he was, managed to take more of it: he would even drink the water before it had been boiled. This I never would do, and, however thirsty I might be, always waited till some had been put on the fire, and left to cool. Kert called it "lecher watter" (delicious water) ; and as for the Bushmen, they would lie down on their stomach, with their face in the hole, and suck up the pure undiluted fluid extract of mother earth as easily as an English navvy in a vertical position will pour a pot of beer down his capacious throat. Whenever we were near water we filled every avail- able vessel with it, first boiling it in two large zinc pails; but fortunately we should soon be practically independent of water, for the sama were now as large as eggs. The sandy wastes now began to be interspersed with patches of hard stony ground ; but all alike was green with various grasses and bushes-the latter always THE KALAHARIL DESERT 11 more or less thorny. The sama vines became more frequent, but were not yet plentiful enough or large enough for us to trust altogether to them, so we made tracks straight north for Bakaris, a pan in which Kert said we should be sure to find plenty of water, as it always lasted three months after heavy rains. But when we got there, days later, we found nothing but a sand-hole. 'The gems-bok, with the help pro- bably of the wilde-beest, had stirred it up most beauti- fully-from the clay-puddler's point of view, but that was not ours. Kert wanted us to camp here for two days and hunt, as the game must be plentiful close by ; and so, to judge by the tracks all round the pan, they must be; but the water was not " delicious" enough for me, and we left the same evening for VIEW ON THE DESERT NEAR KUIS. Kuis, about half-way between Mier and Kuruman, and the only place in the desert where there is a fresh- water well. As we advanced we found the grass and sama growing rapidly, showing that there must have been heavy rains recently. We gathered some of the largest sama, and cooked them. They tasted to me very much like vegetable-marrow, which they closely resembled in appearance ; and, seeing how popular pumpkins and squashes are in America, it struck me as strange that no one had ever thought of taking some of the seeds and trying them in the sandy wastes of the States. I determined to get some of the seeds when ripe and try them. In two days we reached Kuis-a collection of Kala- hari huts, standing on a patch of limestone close to the 12 AND ITS EXPLORATION. banks of the dry bed of the River Kuis, in the centre of which is the well, with some large camel-trees growing on both sides. We had scarcely arrived when the waggon was sur- rounded by a number of men begging for tobacco and coffee. I thought I should easily get rid of them by saying I had none; but they checkmated me by asking for anything and everything that they saw, and then I had to meet them with a downright " No." Then we had peace for a time ; but in the afternoon the chief of the place came-Makgoe by name, which, being inter- preted, means, " Be quick," and quite a wealthy man in his way, having cattle, sheep, and horses, He was accompanied by a white man-an Englishman-who, after the preliminary greetings, said his name was Cann, and that he was a trader and hunter who had been thirty years in the country. Cann kindly acted as interpreter, and to the first remark made by Makgoe-to the effect that the old chief wanted me to give him a rifle as a present-he was good enough to add the advice, " Give him nothing. The old scoundrel would let you starve before helping you." The chief had brought with him a fine-looking horse-the very thing I wanted-so I paid him ont in his own coin, by replying to his question with another of similar import: " Will you make me a present of your horse ?" Makgoe shrugged his shoulders, and replied, " You must give me ten oxen in exchange for my horse." I then tried argument, explaining that in my country, when a stranger came, we took care of him, and made him presents, and then, when he went away, he made us presents in return. Would Makgoe help me while I passed through his country ? But he had evidently been taught that " when you go to Rome you must not do as Rome does," for he quickly replied- "That may be your custom; but you are in my country, and my custom is for everybody who passes through to pay me." THE KALAHARIL DESERT. 13 I replied by carelessly taking up a repeater and firing at a white crow, which I luckily knocked over, and then fired it again instantly after. His curiosity was excited, and he wanted to know what kind of a gun that was. When it was explained that sixteen shots could be fired from it without reloading, he de- liberately said that he must have it as a present, he would take - nothing else. Now, that was just what I wanted him to do, for I could hoist him with his own petard. " You must give me fifteen oxen in ex- change for my mille," I said ; - or, if you like, you shall have it for the horse and a cow. If not, I cannot give it you till I come back from hunting in the desert." Then, giving him a plug: of tobscco, 1 told him the talk was ended. Me went but the trader stayed to talk. £ You treated the old nigger quite right," he said : " lic always tries HEAD oP THE HARTEBEEST (ANTILOPE CAAMA). to bleed us, but we never give him anything more than a little tobacco and coffee. You need have no fear of him, as he has no following." And then he went on to tell me that he was on his way from Damaraland to the colony, after a fifteen months' journey. He had not collected many feathers and skins; it was the old story, the- war between the Damaras and Namaquas had stopped all 14 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. hunting for the last three years; but he had a lot of Damara cattle-nice little beasts, of medium size, and well shaped ; some were nearly white, with black spots, but most of them were speckled either white and black, or white and brown, and all had very long horns, turning up at right angles to the forehead. He had had some difficulty in getting through with the cattle, having had to fight twice to save himself from being robbed. As it was he had lost twenty head. ""But that is nothing," he added. "I have had lots of worse adventures than that in my time, among both men and beasts. Twice I have lost everything I pos- sessed for want of water, being forced to leave my waggons in the sand, with all my goods and all my teams, and only escaping death from thirst myself by a miracle." " You must know the country pretty well, after thirty years of it," I said. "I should be thankful for any hints you can give me." "Yes, I think I know most of the tribes hereabout. I have been up as far as latitude 12°, visiting every tribe east and west, both going and returning. And a rum lot they are. The only people to be trusted at all are the Bushmen. If a Bushman once gets to know you, and you trust him well, he will stick to you through thick and thin. But the Hottentots are a lot of born thieves. They live by stealing cattle from their neighbours, and are not content with that, for they carry the women-and sometimes men, too, for the matter of that-into slavery, and treat them worse than dogs : in fact, they call their slaves ' dogs." " The Damaras are jet-black, not like the Hottentots, who are a kind of copper-red colour." And he went on to give me a lot of hints as to the country, how to treat the natives, what districts to avoid, where to find game, and so on. In fact, from this half-hour's talk I gathered more useful information about the country than I had read in all the published books put together. THE KALAHARI DESERT. 15 By Cann's advice I engaged a Bushman whom he recommended as a guide, and two Bastards who wanted to join in a hunting expedition, Dirk and Klas by name: two little coffee-coloured specimens of humanity, with ferret-like eyes, long crinkly hair, and a meagre moustache; both sharp, shrewd hunters, but lazy and cowardly to the last degree. They had two horses and a waggon with a team of fourteen oxen, which I hired, giving them in addition half the skins and half the feathers of what we killed-the meat of course to be common property. The waggon was necessary to store our skins and hides in, and to carry VIEW ON THE KALAHARL DESERT. a sufficient supply of water and meal along with us, as we might get plenty of game in one place and then go for days without seeing any ; and the same with water. The men were old hunters, and foretold plenty of hunting, for, although the long drought had driven the game away, the reports were that after the recent rains there was plenty of sama, and the game was coming back in abundance, while the Bushmen, who had left their usual haunts to follow the game, had not returned to disturb them. The only things the Bastards were afraid of were lions, and they wanted me to pay for any cattle or horses that might get killed, but this I declined to do. 16 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. That night Cann came back to say that old Makgoe was hankering after the repeating rifle, and asked if he should negotiate matters for me. Seeing no reason to the contrary, I assented, and next morning found him waiting for me with the horse and two cows-and a six-month-old calf thrown into the bargain-a compli- ment which I acknowledged by sending the chief a score of extra cartridges for the rifle. Matters being thus satisfactorily arranged, we started, our cavalcade consisting of two waggons, each drawing twelve oxen, six spare beasts, two milch cows and calves, and four horses-not forgetting four dogs- and the attendant company of Lulu and myself, old Kert, Jan, the two Bastards, a Kaffir, six Bushmen and one Bushwoman, who insisted on following her husband, some of his children being in the veldt to the north. The country was of the same character as before, but the sama being now large enough for the cattle and horses to eat, we were not so anxious about finding water. In fact, we used the sama juice as a substitute for Adam's ale, for everything but coffee. There are two ways of extracting the water from the sama : one to cut them in pieces and boil them, skimming off the solids and seum ; the 'other-the real Bushman fashion-to dig a hole in the sand, and build a fire in it, and when the fire has been burning some time to cover the glowing embers with a layer of sand. As soon as this is thoroughly heated, the hot mass is pushed on one side, the sama piled in its place, and then buried beneath it, the whole heap being covered with a fresh layer of sand. Sometimes another fire is lighted on the top of this In any case this " oven," with its contents, is left to cool down all night, and next morning the sama are taken out and eaten. The taste is not so insipid as one would think, especially if eaten with a little suet-or, better still, & la Devonshire, with cream ; but it suited me better to have the roasted sama squeezed into a pail of water, and, leaving it to cool, to drink it mixed with milk, which makes quite a refreshing beverage ; in any case the sama, whether Yor. IL. DIRK AND KLAS. To face p. 16. THE KALAHARIL DESERT, 17 eaten as a solid or a liquid, quenches the thirst better than water. But beware of the bitter sama! Every now and then you will find a small fruit, exactly resembling the others in everything but the taste, which is so bitter that a couple of the smallest will spoil a whole pail- ful of water. _ One morning the water was very bitter- undrinkable, in fact, by us-but the Bushmen drank it with a relish. This happened onee or twice, and then I found out that these epicures, when they began to eat a bitter sama, put it carefully aside in order to be squeezed into the pail, so that they might get coffee for breakfast! - After that I had every sama tested before it was squeezed, so that " accident" could not be urged in extenuation. (On this oleaginous seed the Bushmen, who live almost entirely on the sama in seasons of plenty, get as fat as pigs, not taking the trouble to hunt when they «can find food at their feet. YOL. 11. C 18 AFRICA AND JTS EXPLORATION. CHAPTER IL. Tur Oranar RivEr. Tus following extract describes some adventures of the travellers on the Orange River. Next morning, just as bright Aurora was raising her head from her rosy pillow on the Eastern horizon, we were once more on our way to the selected site for our open-air studio. Making one end of the rope fast round a rock, and stuffing our coats underneath where it turned the sharp corner, I started first: taking the rope in my hands and twisting my leg around it, I slipped easily enough down till I came to the straps : the rope, I knew, was strong enough, but I had my doubts about some of the straps. However, they bore the strain and took me safely to within ten feet of the bottom. From the top it had seemed as if they were only a few inches too short, but now I found a gap of ten feet at least between me and the rocks. I hesitated whether to drop off or climb back, when a happy thought struck me : I would write a note and tie it to the end of the strap before dropping off, and explain to Lulu the state of affairs, so that he could fasten the camera to the end of the rope and lower it down instead of sliding it down as arranged. In half an hour came the camera, which I just managed to reach standing on tiptoe, then the shields, protected by their covering of blankets, &c., and lastly, Lulu himself. He was delighted with the point of view, which he said would give both elevation and depth, foreground and middle distance, while the sun was just right for the shadows and high lights. The only drawback was that we were so far away from the beautiful object, the fall itself:; but that could not It helped : there was no THE ORANGE RIVER. 19 other place to stand the camera, and we were lucky to find even this. " There are not many photographers who are gymnasts as well," said Lulu, " and one need be both to get a picture of the fall from this point." The focus was soon adjusted and two views taken, THE FIRST BATH FOR MANY MONTHS. and then Fritz hauled up the apparatus, and we fol- lowed : putting our feet against the face of the rock, and stretching out our legs at right angles to it, we ran up, hand over hand, quicker than we had come down, for we were now sure of the rope's strength. Reaching the summit, I found that all the tan had been suddenly taken off Fritz's face. € 2 20 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION: "*What's the matter, Frits : are you ill ?" " I don't know aboud dat ill, bud I vas preddy sick : I vas perspire just like die vatter, und dem cold chill creep my back up. If I don't got to I never play too much mit dead." "'That's where the fun iss But you need not be afraid on our account. It's easy enough to us. You're - like the rest of the world -what you cannot do yourself, and don't understand, you think wonderful, Come along, we must explore the chasm as far down as we can see:; I'm anxious to find out what causes those tower-like rocks to stand out so boldly at the end of the gorge." Our way lay over, under, or around, huge rocks, and through deep gullies. A narrow chasm would now and then yawn at our feet, completely barring our progress, and forcing us to exercise our jumping powers to the full. - After about two hours of this work we found our- selves on the point of a narrow strip of precipitous rock, not more than eighteen feet wide. To our right, some 400 feet below, ran the river : to the left, at about half that depth, were masses of broken rocks, with pools of water between, altogether as rough and wild a place as we had yet seen. The sun had already traversed three parts of its half-circle, and was casting deep shadows on the rocky sides of the cation, so we deferred any further exploration till next day. Concealing the camera and ropes behind an old brown rock that had withstood the storms and burning sun for ages, we struck out a new route to the waggons, at each turn finding some fresh beauties in the floral decorations and rock-work. But when we reached the outermost stream, which we had crossed in the morning, we were surprised to find that the river had risen considerably ; not a stone was to be seen all the way across, and we had great difficulty in getting over, knocking elbows, knees, and toes against sharp-edged rocks. Fritz said it would all subside again before morning, as the floods were not of much account at this time of year ; but next day the water was still so high that we THE ORANGE RIVER. 21 were forced to build a raft of dry willow logs and poles, which we laid six in a row and four deep, and fastened together with raw ox-hide. } The raft, however, was too narrow to be safe for carrying three of us, though buoyant enough for our clothes, &e. I tried, first of all, to see if it would carry me, but the slightest movement to one side while poling it along upset it, and I found myself up to my waist in the muddy water. So we abandoned the idea of crossing on it ourselves, and only used it to keep our clothes dry while we swam. The water seemed to me to be still rising ; driftwood. was floating down with it, and submerged rocks added to the dangers of the swift current, so, as Lulu and Fritz were indifferent swimmers, I swam across first, with a small rope attached to the raft, and then hauled it across after me, while the two others, taking hold of the raft, were drawn over with but little risk or effort. This was soon done, and in a few moments we all three stood dressing on the opposite bank, our teeth chattering, and shivering with cold ; the water was very chilly, and the early morning air, stirred with a light breeze, was still keener. A sharp walk soon warmed us up. As the pheasants were very plentiful, and the early morning was their feeding-time, we had taken the precaution to bring the shot-gun ; and we had not gone far before a couple ran across an open space to cover-which they never reached. These South African pheasants are about the colour and size of the female of the silver pheasant, but much heavier ; their ery is very much similar to that of the guinea-fowl, which is also very plentiful, but is so shy and cunning that it is very seldom that you can see one, although you can hear their ery of "Come back ! come back!" on all sides. A pointer or setter would be necessary to make a good bag of them. The Bastards shoot them by finding their roosting-tree, to which they invariably come every night, and slaughter them as they go to bed. Large flocks of rock-pigeons-about the size of the English wood-pigeon, and much the same in colour, 22 AFPRICA AND FTS EXFLORATLIUN. save that their wings are beautifully mottled with white dots-were all about the rocks and cliffs, or flying out on the veldt to feed. When we came to the head of the gorge, where we were about to descend, there were hundreds of them sitting about on the high rocks waiting * for their companions to join them, and all go to break- fast together. Some of them, however, made a breakfast for us instead, and others that fell down into the crevices of the rocks out of our reach would be found by the pretty small otters that inhabit this wild place, where they had been undisturbed for centuries, until we came and frightened them with the report of our guns. At every discharge, the noise of which was multiplied a thousand times, as it echoed from cliff to cliff, hundreds of the feathered inhabitants flew out of the recesses and fairly filled the narrow space between the nearly perpendicular walls of the deep wild gorge. Our German companion did not conceal his delight at every addition to our bag, and volunteered to gather wood and make a fire to cook them for dinner. " I'll- ratch-it dat dey vill be cooked vell," he said-much as he had said before, " I'll-vatch-it dat anyveares you sall go I vill go mit you;" but it was easy to see that, although he had talked a great deal about his being able to climb about wherever we went, he was not unwilling to find an excuse for keeping as much as possible out of danger; and when he saw how difficult it would be to get down to the bottom of the he decided that it would be safer and easier for him to act the cook rather than the gymnast. Nearly at the outset we had to use the ropes to de- scend into a deep hole that was still muddy from the summer's 'high water. A half-inch rope was rather small to climb easily ; to go down was easy enough, but we had to think of coming back, to facilitate which we tied knots in it. After getting safely down, we shouldered our camera, &c., and crossed a veritable slough of despond, up to our knees in the stickiest, slipperiest, nastiest clay mud, that would not even be scraped off, so we had to put our shoes on over it, the THE ORANGE RIVER. 28 mud taking the place of socks. Then came a huge jumble of great jagged rocks-some of them as large as FARINI FALLS AND TOWERS. a two-storey house-that had slipped off and fallen here from the cliffs above; climbing over some, crawling on our hands and knees under others, or squeezing between 24. AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. some of them where there was only just room for us to pass, we every now and then disturbed in the deep shadows large heavy-winged owls, who would alight on a pointed rock and stare at us through their big eyes with wonder, for we were a greater curiosity to them than they were to us. Then we came to a succession of places nearly perpendicular, and as smooth as glass, worn so by the water with which this deep gorge was evidently filled in the rainy season. Four times we had to let ourselves down by means of ropes ; the most difficult thing to do was to find places to securely fasten them. _ This we did once or twice by jamming a log of dry driftwood into a crevice which seemed to have been formed for the purpose. - Lulu would say, " Goon: T'J1 follow. You are sure to find what you require, either an easy place to climb, or something handy to fasten your rope to." At last, after four hours' hard labour, we reached the end of the gorge, and could see the main river flowing about forty yards below our feet. There stood a number of grand granite towers, seeming to reach to the sky, standing like giant sentinels keeping watch and guard over this wilderness of rocks, and pointing the way to the multitudinous streams that plunged from all direc- tions into the deep dark chasm. Turning a sharp corner, we came suddenly to a beau- tiful waterfall bursting out beneath a rectangular arch, formed by two gigantic rocks that had fallen against each other, and out of the crevices of which grew dark- green trees and shrubs, in beautiful contrast with the grey and brown rocks and the snow-white water, as it danced from shelf to shelf. Lulu was delighted with the grandeur and novelty of the scene, and hastened from point to point to select the best place from which to get a picture. He was some time deciding, for, although there seemed an embarras de richesses, he had the true artistic instinct that refused to take a group that was not properly balanced and artistically composed. When he was ready, he pointed to a rock jutting out Vor. II. G. A. FARINL To face p. 24. THE. ORANGE RIVER, 25 close to the waterfall, saying, " If you could get there, without much risk, it would be the making of the picture, and give comparative height." The task was difficult, owing to the rocks being slippery from the spray, but the picture, which Lulu entitled " Farini Falls and Towers," will show that I managed to accom- plish it. While I was returning, a most extraordinary thing happened. A new waterfall suddenly appeared between where Lulu stood and me. At first there was a small cascade, with just water enough to wet the rocks ; by the time I had walked past it there was a stream several inches deep, fed by a considerable torrent ; and in half an hour a big fall was tumbling into a basin two feet deep and several yards wide. The rise of the river above was being felt, and various pools that were pre- viously dried up had run full and overflowed. The question for us was whether it was safe to remain down here any longer. - Lulu was bent on taking a picture of the Tower Rocks, and did not heed the rising water. " Here," he cried, " try and get on that great rock out in the pools, and hand me up the camera. This is the only point high enough to take it all in." And there he was, many feet above me on the other side of a deep chasm, which I had to jump in order to get near enough to hand up the apparatus. From where I stood, the mist-capped towers seemed lost in the sky ; the bright sunlight cast their long, dark shadows across the silver spray of the mad torrent and far up the face of the opposite precipice ; the deep, dark pools on their left formed a reservoir that fed the beautiful pool we had just photographed, while it in., return was filled by a pretty torrent that burst out from beneath a huge block of granite, and leapt gaily through the air, like a shower of sparkling diamonds. In the distance, far up the narrow gorge, the cold high cliff-tops, lighted up by the bright sunlight, looked like polar icebergs in contrast with the dark blackness of the shadowy depths below. How solemnly grand it was now ! How terribly mag- 2G ARPRICA AND IFS EXPLORATION. nificent it would be when all those gorges and crevices and channels were filled to the brim with a rushing mighty torrent, such as must pour thundering through them in the rainy season ! But there was no time to indulge in reverie just then, and Lulu's voice calling to me to " Come up and see how grand it looks from this rock," brought me to my senses. " No more sight-seeing or photographing to-day," I replied. "If you don't pack up and hurry back, we shall become sleeping partners of these grand old rocks." "* Why," he asked, " what's the matter with you all of a sudden ?" «" Don't you see the river is rising ? 'That rock with the water rippling over it was bare when we came here, and the chances are we shall find the road back full of rapids and pools, torrents and waterfalls, if we stay here much longer." " All right! but I want you just to go and sit on yonder rock, so that I can add your beautiful figure to this picture of the beauties of nature. There are only two or three crevices to jump over, and a pool or two to wade through, and while you are getting there I'll find the focus. I promise not to stay any longer, for I've feasted my eyes pretty well on the scenery here, but find it very light food for the stomach." While obeying the artist's orders, and climbing to the appointed place, the thought of the feast of Nature's grandeur-combined with visions of a meal that Fritz had no doubt long ago prepared for us-nearly gave me indigestion; but this was no place to give way to dyspepsia, and all our thoughts were now centred on the shortest way back. All went smoothly till we came to the mighty angular rock, forming a sort of archway, beneath which we had walked on our way down, but through which a swift stream of water was now gliding. We tried to get over it, but it was too steep and too slippery ; and in our explorations we found that, if only one of us could get to the opposite side, it would be easy to reach the top and let down a rope, and haul up the camera, &c. So I doffed my THE ORANGE RIVER, 27 clothes, and, leaving them with Lulu, took a rope, and half swam, half groped my way beneath the archway, through the muddy fluid, till I emerged on the other side. The water was very cold, and pulling myself up the bare rocks, I climbed shivering up the steep incline overlooking the spot where Lulu was anxiously awaiting my reappearance. - Lowering the end of the rope, I shouted to him to send me up my clothes first, and by the time the apparatus was hauled up, and Lulu had THE ANNA FALLS. joined me, the warm sun and exercise had chased the chills away. At every turn new cascades sprang out of the gaunt focks.. One of these I named the "Anna Falls," in honour of the same lady whose name I had taken the liberty of appropriating to another purpose : and Lulu was only too ready to comply with my wish to photo- graph them, with the result shown in the annexed engraving. For some distance the jagged rocks and huge boulders -more or less covered with water where they had been 28 4PRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION dry in the morning-lay in the wildest confusion, making our progress very slow, and diminishing the quantity and quality of our clothing, as it increased our anxiety. - Our load, too, became heavier, the weight of our shoulder-packs gradually increasing as we gathered the ropes we had left hanging at different places on our way down. At last, however, we came in sight of the last, and thinnest, and longest of them all, the chasm down which it was suspended looking even " uglier" to get up than it had seemed when we prepared to descend. But a pool of water lay between us and it, and the question was whether we could wade through. - Hastily but carefully entering, without stopping to take off my shoes, I was delighted to find that the water was not deeper than my middle, and shouted out the good news to Lulu. At that moment my feet sank deep into the slimy mud and the water wetted the covering to the plates, which were strapped to my back, and I had a narrow escape of spoiling the fruit of all our labours ; but fortune continued to smile upon us, and in ten minutes we were both on terra firma. ~ But such figures! The sticky mud stuck to us like gum; we looked like sewer navvies minus the long boot. To climb up the thin rope with such a load of slime was a more difficult task than ever " greasy pole " presented, and we had to set to work to scrape one another. f Lulu went up first, while I held the rope and kept it rigid, making it easier to climb. - But to land on top of the rock was not so easy. The rope lay flat on a slightly inclined surface, his weight and mine pressing it so closely that he could not get his fingers under it; but his early gymnastic training came into play. By twisting his leg around the rope he was enabled to support his weight on it, and then, drawing the whole of his body above the top, he threw himself forward, loosened his leg, and accomplished what, to ordinary people, would have been impossible. Having sent up all the impedimenta, I followed ; but as the lower end of the rope was now free, it would not be so easy for THE ORANGE RIVER, 29 me to turn the corner at the top, so Lulu put his shoe under the rope, close to the edge, so as to make room for my fingers The rope being very thin, and my hands big, it was a hard struggle for me to get up. As I reached over the edge Lulu grabbed me by the collar, at -the same time pulling his shoe out from under the rope, and down went my knuckles against the stone, grinding the bark off them, and squeezing some hard words out of me, which I won't repeat here, for fear my readers might not understand them. * What did you pull the shoe out for, Lulu?" I asked, when at last I gained the top. " Because I could not get my foot out from under the rope unless I did," he replied. He had forgotten to take his foot out of the shoe when he first put it under the rope, and had borne the pain caused by the small cord cutting into it, with my weight on it, until I was safely round the bend. We were pleased to find our German companion had several rock-pigeons ready grilled. Never was food more welcome; it was now nearly sundown, and our last meal was at daylight this morning; the long fast- ing, combined with the constant and sometimes violent exercise, had created in us ravenous appetites, and the rapidity with which we made the half-dozen good-sized sweet morsels disappear would have done credit to Hermann, or any other professor of legerdemain. That night we slept on our bed of planks without rocking, and never woke until breakfast was announced by Fritz, who shouted,- " Genklemen, dat coffee vill cold come if you don't stand up, so quicker as quick. Die sun is stand up already. Vere you climbs to-day, dat's vere I bin. I don't vait some more, I'll vateh it." Old Sol, with his warm, life-giving rays, came steadily and slowly into view, as we completed our toilet. - This took us half a minute longer than usual, as we had to put on our shoes! . Usually all we had to do was to throw off the blanket and put on our hats. To wrap oneself up in a blanket, and sleep with one's clothes on, 30 AFRICA AND ITO FXPLORATION, saves a great deal of time, especially when an early start is necessary and one's coffee is getting cold, which ours nearly did this time, as we were very tired and sore from yesterday's exertion. Half an hour's walk, however, along the banks of the river dissipated all our aches, and we were all on the alert, gun in hand, for doves, rock-pigeons, and pheasants A large hare sprang out from under Lulu's feet and ran between the legs of our Teuton friend, " I'll-vatch-it," who, true to his favourite expression, as quick as thought killed it with a stick. Our plan was not to cross any of the branches of the river at all, but to follow the right bank of the outer- most stream, and trace it to the point where it joined its sister streams at the general gathering of the waters below, So hanging puss up in a thick bush to keep the vultures away from it, and taking the feathered game with us for our dinner, we kept steadily on. The walking was smooth compared to what it was on the other side of the stream : now and then a small ravine, with a dry watercourse that in wet seasons drained the mountains in the distance, crossed our path at right angles, forming here and there pretty glades and glens, partially clothed in dark-green foliage. Presently hearing the roar of a rapid, as the water dashed itself against the grey rocks, we hurried forward, thinking we were near the spot where the river made the downward leap ; but as yet there was no sign that we had reached the point of junction with the main stream. _ A little further on, Lulu, who was close to the banks, shouted.-- " There's no more river, It has disappeared." There was a big pool, dammed up by a ledge of barren rocks, but here the river came to an abrupt end. No bend, no turn, no continuation whatever. After careful search we could not find the marks showing where the water overflowed when the pool became full to the brim during the rainy season, and on going some distance below this ledge we discovered that the water had a subterranean outlet from the pool through a cleft THE ORANGE RIVER. 31 in the rocks, invisible from the upper side. On the lower side, however, hemmed in on all sides by a con- fused pile of rocks, we found a perfect wall of water, THE SCOTT GORGE AND FALLS. which burst out of a narrow crevice only a foot wide and ten feet high, from which it sprang several feet before spreading into white spray, and tumbling down a steep incline of shelving rocks, making a beautiful 32 AFRICA AND. ITS cascade, and finally bringing itself to rest in a series of pools encased with perpendicular walls of granite. In these pools, which ran at right angles to the corner of the stream, the water seemed to have forgotten its struggles, and to be preparing to resume its journey in peace ; but in an unsuspected moment it fell headlong down a dark precipice, breaking itself into myriads of particles on the hard, polished rock fifty feet below ; then, quickly gathering itself (together, it slid over, under, and around huge boulders, as if playing hide- and-seek. This gorge I named after the Resident Com- missioner for Korannaland, Mr. John Seott. To follow its course any farther we had to cross to the opposite side, which we did by taking a flying leap across a deep, narrow channel. Then we descended into the grim, grey, granite gorge, where the bright sun never shone, and whose dark shadows were made more dark by the perpetual mist. The water, after running over another series of projecting rocks, and falling straight down like a mammoth shower-bath into a huge, seething bowl, gathered its strength and fury as if for a final effort, dashed past its prison walls, made its escape, and with one mad leap sprang over the precipice into the river one hundred feet below. To get a full-faced view of this last cataract, it was necessary to descend the chasm of the main river, a difficult and most dangerous task, which I undertook, and accomplished in one hour, going down the face of the corner formed by the two gorges joining one another nearly at right angles, when the least slip would have pulverized me on the rocks four hundred feet beneath. Here, in some sand between the rocks, I found half a dozen small diamonds, from which I gave the cataract the name of the Diamond Falls The accompanying picture of this, as well as of the Schermbriicker Falls, are from photos taken by Lulu next day, when we lowered the camera with ropes in much the same way as we had done when the Hercules Falls were photo- graphed. In fact, all the illustrations are taken from photographs with the exception of one, which is from a You. II. THE DIAMOND FALLS. To face p. 32, THE ORANGE RIVER. 38 sketch drawn under the most extraordinary circum- stances. We had spent several days exploring the falls, and THE SCHERMEBRUCKER FALLS. finding each day some new gorge communicating with the main river, and had come to the conclusion that each of these, in the rainy season, would be full of water and contribute its quota to the vast flood, when ¥OL. It. D 34 AND TIS EXPLORATION, we unexpectedly had practical proof of the correctness of this view, and of the rapidity with which the falls, grand as they are even at low water, assume dlmensmns that must exceed even the volume of Niagara. We were down at the bottom of a small gorge, near the Hercules Falls, when we suddenly heard a terrible rumbling, roaring noise. S$ Whats that 7" I said to Fritz, who looked up the rapids and said,- Ve never some peebles vill tell, eef ve don't some plendy (11110le make-dot rivare is down coming, dat's vat dat noise was. Run'! After our previous experience we took in the situa- tion in an instant, and fled for our lives to a rock several feet higher than the surrounding ones, whence we watched the oncoming flood, the swollen river sweep- ing everything before it w1th a sullen roar. The rocks on ; which we were standing soon became surrounded by a raging torrent; the wall of water, not taking time to follow the streamlets, burst over the rocks on all sides, and rushing headlong into all the holes, pools, and cracks and crannies, overflowed them in an instant. The main channel was soon filled, and absorbed each little winding stream in the General flood. What a gr md transformation scene ! On every side of us was the boiling water, bearing on its surging bosom uprooted trees logs, poles, and other débris. The booming of the duft wood as it bumped against the rocks, and the roar of the rushing and falling waters were deafening. If the flood rose much more our fate was sealed, for, although the rock we were on was a large one, and appeared to be the dividing line between two channels of the river, it bore unmistakable traces of being waterworn, and no doubt was quite submerged at high water. Our German friend consoled us by saying the flood, at this time of year, would not rise for more than twelve hours, and that the first rush was always the heaviest. This proved to be the case, for, although the level kept slowly creeping up, the rise was not much after the first hour. THE ORANGE - RIVER. 35 " But," " I'll-vatch-it" said, " de vatter vill tree, four days take before it sall be run down vonce more." This was a pleasant prospect! Three or four days and nights on a bare rock, surrounded by a raging flood. «How grand the Hercules Falls look now !" said Lulu. " If only I had my camera here!" Grand, indeed, they were ; a vast sheet of water was pouring over the precipice on all sides. Not one of the huge boulders could be seen now : great granite blocks that had stood in the middle and sides of the falls were drowned in the flood. What the falls must be like at full high water it is impossible to describe or even to imagine. We could see by the water-marks on the rocks, and by the wisps of straw and rubbish still hang- ing in the tree-tops, that the flood was a comparatively small one-a mere freshet-and Frith told us that at Upington, in the rainy season, he had seen the river rise fifty feet in twelve hours, covering the highest trees that grew on the islands. What must these falls be like at such a time, when a rise of three or four feet added so much to their grandeur! Lulu, while bewail- ing the absence of his camera, made several sketches, from which the annexed engraving is taken. On every side fresh cascades sprang out, as if by magic, from the rocks. In fact, whether at high water or at low water, one of the peculiar charms of the place is the extraordinary number of distinct waterfalls which exist here. At Niagara there are two gigantic cataracts, falling side by side at one bound into the head of a gorge seven miles in length. - Here there is a succession of cascades and falls-probably a hundred in number- extending along the whole length of a gorge no less than sixteen miles long, into which they plunge one after the other, sometimes at a single bound, sometimes in a series of leaps. During the dry weather many of these cataracts are of great volume, but at wet seasons, when they are magnified a hundred-fold, their mass must be immense. At Niagara the gorge is nowhere «deeper than 200 feet. Here the chasm is half as deep n 2 t 3G AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. again. At Niagara the formation is limestone, and it is calculated that the water has taken some millions of years to excavate the channel. Here the soil is hard rock, and it is a pretty problem for geologists THE HUNDRED FALLS. to decide, by analogy, the age of this part of the African Contiment. During our explorations we counted, and mapped down, and named, nearly a hundred distinct cascades, and this fact gave me the idea of calling the falls of the Orange River " The Hundred Falls" If the reader will THEL ORANGE RIV R. 87 pardon the infliction, I will, instead of attempting any further description of them in prose, record the verses which their wonders inspired :- «CHE HUNDRED FALLS." We leave the arid waste, and sea of grass, Where lurk the dangers of the desert sand, And, climbing mammoth rocks as smooth as glass, Behold a scene surpassing fairy-land! We hear the murmur of the rippling rills Combining with the voices, sweet and long, Of bright-winged warblersy whose rich music fills The air with song. Bright is the picture to the eye revealed Of waving meadow, and of shady glen: The land of paradise seems here concealed By careless nature from the gaze of men. Led by contending waters' angry sound, We reach the jagged cliffs, and towering walls Beneath which tumble, boom, crash, downward bound The Hundred Falls. Transfixed we stand, enraptured with the sight, Upon the massive walls of silver grey, Above the mighty waters foaming white, With mirrored rainbows circling in the spray : The torrent through its granite channel sweeps, Impeded by grim rocks on either shore, As o'er the precipice it madly leaps With sullen roar. Scores of snow-white cataracts swiftly gush From lofty crags, majestic, cold, and bare, Then headlong down the deep, dark chasm rush, And quiver flashing in the startled air; Glittering in the mist, the tempest blew The silver spray to the abyss below, Like liquid diamonds scintillating through A cloud of snow. More dreadful than the powder's bursting blast, Than cannon roaring o'er the battle plain, Louder than thunderbolts from heaven cast, Or warlike engines heard across the main, Wilder than the waves of a maddened sea, Or earthquake, that bewilders and appals, Were, roaring, writhing, fighting to be free, One Hundred Falls. 38 a4FRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION,. CHAPTER IM Amoxne THE FAN CANNIBALS AND THE GC RILLAS. TurNING our steps northwards, we shall place ourselves under one of the greatest of African travellers, Sir Richard Burton, and pay a visit to the Gaboon country, lying to the north of the Congo, where we shall find ourselves among the Fan canmbals and in the land of the gorilla. Sir Richard thus describes a journey up the Gaboon in 1862, and the habits of the Fans, as he saw them. Detestable weather detained me long at the hospitable factory. Tornadoes were of almost duly occurrence- not pleasant with 200 barrels of gunpowder under a thatched roof; they were useful chiefly to the Mpongwe servants of the establishment. 'These model thieves broke open, under cover of the storms, a strong iron safe in an inner room which had been carefully closed ; they stole my Mboko skin, and bottles were not safe from them even in our bedrooms. My next step was to ascend the " Olo' Mpongwe," or Gaboon River, which Bowdich (" Sketch of Gaboon ") calls Orodngo, and its main point Ohlombopolo. The object was to visit the Fan, of whose cannibalism such curious tales had been told. It was not easy to find a conveyance. The factory greatly wanted a flat-bottom iron steamer, a stern- thelel with sliding keel, and fur- naces fit for burning half-clued wood-a craft of fourteen tons, costing pelhaps £14 per ton, would be ample in point of size, and would save not a little money to the trader. I was at last fortunate in securing the " Eliza," belonging to Messrs. Hatton and Cookson. - She was a fore-and-aft schooner of twenty tons, measuring 42 feet 6 inches over all and put up at Bonny Town by Captain AMONG THE FAN CANNIBALS AND THE G@ORILLAS. 39 Birkett. - She had two masts, and oars in case of calms ; her crew was of six hands, including one Fernando, a Congoese, who could actually box the compass. No outfit was this time necessary, beyond a letter to Mr. Tippet, who had charge of the highest establishments up stream. - His business consisted chiefly of importing NATIVE HOUSE WITH A FAMILY GROUP. arms, ammunition, and beads of different sorts, especially the red porcelain, locally called Loangos. On April 10, a little before noon, I set out, despite thunder and lightning, rain, sun, torrential showers, and the vehemently expressed distaste of my crew. The view of. the right bank was no longer from afar; it differs in shape and material from the southern, but the distinction appears to me superficial, not extending to the interiors. Off Konig Island we found nine fathoms of water, and wanted them during a bad storm from the 40 AFRICA ANP ITS EXPLORA FION. south-east ; it prevented my landing and inspecting the old Dutch guns, which Bowdich says are remains of the Portuguese. - Both this and Parrot Island, lying some five miles south by west, are masses of cocoas, fringed with mangroves ; a great contrast with the prairilion of the neighbouring Point Ovindo. At last, worn out by a four-knot current and a squall in our teeth, we anchored in four fathoms, about five miles south-east of Konig. From this point we could easily see the wide gape of the Rembwe, the south-eastern influent, or rather fork, of the Gaboon, which rises in the south-western versant of some meridional chain, and which I was assured can be ascended in three tides. The people told me when too late of a great cavity or sink, which they called Wonga-Wonga ; Bowdich represents it to be an unin- habited savannah of three days' extent, between Em- poongwa and Adjoomba (Mayumba). I saw nothing of the glittering diamond mountains, lying eastward of Wonga- Wonga, concerning which the old traveller was compelled to admit that, " when there was no moon, a pale but distinct light was invariably reflected from a mountain in that quarter, and from no other." It has now died out-this superstition, which corresponds with the carbuncle of Hoy and others of our Scoto-Seandi- navian islands. Resuming our cruize on the next day, we passed on the right a village of " bad Bakele," which had been blown down by the French during the last year ; in this little business the "king" and two lieges had been killed. The tribe is large and important, scattered over several degrees north and south of the equator, as is proved by their slaves being collected from distances of several weeks and even months. In 1854 Mr. Wilson numbered them at 100,000. . According to local experts they began to press down stream about 1880, driven a tergo by their neighbours, the Mpangwe (Fan), even as they themselves are driving the Mpongwes. But they are evidently the Kaylee or Kalay of Bowdich, whose capital, " Samashialee," was " the residence of the king, He places them in their present W filly/Q?” UAL VI 1 N You. IL, THE HUNTERS' RETURN. s To Face p. 40. AMONG THE FAN CANNIBALS AND THE GORILLAS. Al habitat, and makes them the worst of cannibals. Whilst the "Sheckans" (Shekyani) buried their dead under the bed within the house, these detestable Kay- lees 'ate not only their prisoners, but their defunct friends, whose bodies were " bid for directly the breath was out of them ;" indeed, fathers were frequently seen to devour their own children. Bowdich evidently speaks VIEW OF A BANANA GARDEN from hearsay ; but the Brazil has preserved the old traditions of cannibalism amongst the Gabhdes. The Bakele appeared to me very like the coast tribes, only somewhat lighter-coloured and wilder in look, whilst they again are darker-skinned than their eastern neighbours from the inner highlands. Their women are not so well dressed as the "ladies" of the Mpongwe, the chignon is smaller, and there are fewer brass rings. The men, who still chno to the old habit of hunting, cultivate the soil, plactlse the ruder mechanical arts, and trade with the usual readiness and greed ; they izas " Ameri e nent mpage Pan aoe na aree a ae ane A 42, AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. asked us a leaf of tobacco for an egg, and four leaves for a bunch of bananas. Missionaries, who, like Messrs. Preston and Best, resided amongst them for years, have observed that, though a mild and timid people, they are ever involved in quarrels with their neighbours. I can hardly understand how they " bear some resemblance to the dwarfish Dokos of the eastern coast," seeing that the latter do not exist. The Dikele grammar proves the language, which is most closely allied to the Benga dialect, to be one of the great South African family, variously called Kaffir, because first studied amongst these people ; Ethiopic (very vague), and Nilotic because its great fluvial basin is the Zambezi, not the Nile.. As might be expected amongst isolated races, the tongue, though clearly re- lated to that of the Mpongwe and the Mpingwe, has many salient points of difference; for instance, the liquid "r" is wholly wanting. According to Mr. T. Leighton Wilson, perhaps one word in two is the same, or obviously from the same root; consequently verbal resemblances are by no means striking. The orthography of the two differs materially, and in this respect Dikele more resembles the languages of the eastern coast than its western neighbour, at the same time less than the Fiote or the Congoese. It has a larger number of de- clensions, and its adjectives and pronouns are more flexible and complicated. On the other hand, it pos- sesses few of the conjugations which form so conspicuous a feature in the tongues of the Lower River, and, reversing the usage of the Mpongwe, it makes very little use of the passive. Running the gauntlet of cheer and chaff from the noisy inmates of the many Bakele villages, and worried by mangrove-flies, we held our way up the muddy and rapidly narrowing stream, whose avenues of rhizophoras and palms acted as wind-sails; when the breeze failed the sensation was stifling. Lyimbé (Canrmabis sativa) grew in patches upon the banks, now apparently wild, like that about Lagos and Badagry. Not till evening did the tide serve, enabling us to send our papers for AMONG THE FAN CQANNIBALS AND THE GORILLAS® 48 visa on board the guard-ship " L'Oise," where a party of young Frenchmen were preparing for la chasse. A little higher up stream are two islets, Nenge Mbwendi, so called from its owner, and Nenge Sika, or the Isle of told. The Mpongwe all know this name for the precious WEAVER BIRDS AND NESTS. metal, and the Bakele appear to ignore it: curious to say, it is the Fante and Mandenga word, probably de- rived from the Arabic Sikkah, which gave rise to the Italian Zecca (mint) and Zecchino. It may have been introduced by the Laptots or Lascar sailors of the Senegal. M. du Chaillu (" Second Expedition," chap. iii.) mentions "the island Nengué Shika" on the Lower prs A4 AVRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION Fernio Vaz River; and Bowdich turns the two into Ompoingu and Soombeii. The third is Anenga-nenga, not Ninga-ninga, about one mile long from north to south, and well wooded with bush and palms ; here the Gaboon Mission has a neat building on piles. < The senior native employé was at Glass Town, and his junior, a youth about nineteen, stood & la Napoléon in the door- way, evidently monarch of all he surveyed. I found there one of the Ndiva, the old tribe of Pongo-land, which by this time has probably died out. We anchored off Wosuku, a village of some fifty houses, forming one main street, disposed north-east-south-west, or nearly at right angles with the river. The entrance was guarded by a sentinel and gun, and the " king," Imondo, lay right royally on his belly. A fine plantation of bananas divides the settlement, and the background is dense bush, in which they say " Nygre" and deer abound. 'The Bikele supply sheep and fowls to the Plateau, and their main industry consists in dressing plantain-fibre for thread and nets. ° We now reach the confluence of the Nkomo, or north- eastern, with the Mbokwe, or eastern branch, which anastomose to form the Gaboon ; the latter, being appa- rently the larger of the two, preserves the title Mpolo. Both still require exploration ; my friend M. Braouezzec, Lieutenant de Vaisseau, who made charts of the lower bed, utterly failed to make the sources; and the Rev. Mr. Preston, who lived seven months in the interior, could not ascend far. Mr. W. Winwood Reade reached in May, 1862, the rapids of the Nkomo River, but sore feet prevented his climbing the mountain, which he estimates at 2,000 feet, or of tracing the stream to its fountain. Mr. R. B. N. Walker also ascended the Nkomo for some thirty miles, and found it still a large bed with two fathoms of water in the Cacimbo or '" Middle dries." In M. du Chaillu's map the Upper Nkomo is a dotted . line ; according to all authorities, upon the higher and the lower river his direction is too far to the north-east. The good Tippet declares that he onee canoed three miles up the Mbokwe, and then AMONG THE "AIN CANNIBALS AND THE GORILLAS. 45 marched eastward for five days, covering a hundred miles-which is impossible. He found a line of detached hills, and an elevation where the dews were exceedingly cold ; looking towards the utterly unknown Orient, he cou'd :o: co hing but a thick forest unbroken by streams. - lus ueurd from the country people traditions of a Great Lake, which may be that placed by Tuckey in north latitude 2°-3°.. The best seasons for travel are said to be March and November, before and after the rains, which swell the water twelve feet. About Anengenenge we could easily see the sub- ranges of the great Eastern (thats, some twenty miles to the north-east. - Here the shallows and the banks projecting from different points made the channel dangerous. Entering the Mbokwe branch we were compelled to use sweeps, or the schooner would have been dashed against the sides; as we learned by the trees, the tides raise the surface two to three feet high. After the third & 2 hour we passed the ~ Han (BY-ZANZI) A CONGO DANDY. Komba Vina," or village of King Vina. It stood in a pretty little bay, and the river, some 400 feet broad, was fronted, as is often the case, by the " palaver tree," a glorious Ceiba or bombax. All the people flocked out to enjoy the sight, and my unpractised eye could not distinguish them from Bakele. Above it, also on the right bank, is the now-deserted site where Messrs. Adams and Preston nearly came to grief for bewitching the population with " bad book." Five slow hours from Anenge-nenge finally placed us, about sunset, at Mayyan, or Tippet Town. 'The depot lies a little above the confluence of the Mbokwe and the Londo, or south-eastern fork of the latter. A drunken 46 AFRICA AND FFS EXPLORATION. pilot and a dark and moonless night, with the tide still running in, delayed us till I could hardly distinguish the sable human masses which gathered upon the Styx- like stream to welcome their new Matyem-merchant or white man. Before landing, all the guns on board the steamer were double-loaded and discharged, at the instance of our host, who very properly insisted upon this act of African courteey-*" it would be shame not to fire salute." We were answered by the loudest howls, and by the town muskets, which must have carried the charges of old chambers Mr. Tippet, an intelligent coloured man from the States, who has been living thirteen years on the Gaboon, since the age of fourteen, and who acts as native trader to Mr. R. B. N. Walker, for ivory, ebony, rubber, and other produce, escorted me to his extensive establishment. At length I am amongst the man-eaters. Pee... 47. ) FESTIVITIES. CHAPTER IV. A SprEommr® Day wirg tur FAK CAaNNIBALS. Am 5 aM. on the next day, after a night with the gnats and rate, I sallied forth in the thick " smokes," and cast a nearer look upon my cannibal hosts. And first of the tribal name. The Mpongwe call their wild neighbours Mpangwe; the Europeans affect such corruptions as Fanwe, Panwe, the F and P being very similar, Phaouin and Paouen (Pawen). They call themselves Fin, mean- ing 'man; in the plural, Bilan The n is highly nasalized : the missionaries proposed to express it by "mh," which, however, wrongly conveys the idea of aspiration ; and " Fan," pronounced after the English fashion, would be unintelligible to them. The village contains some 400 souls, and throughout the country the maximum would be about 500 spears, or 4,000 of both sexes, whilst the minimum is a couple of dozen. It is pleasantly situated on the left bank of the Mbokwe River, a streamlet here some 50 feet broad, whose water rises 6 feet 10 inches under the tidal in- fluence. "The single street, about half a mile long, is formed by two parallel rows of huts, looking upon a 48 AFRICA AND ITS cleared line of yellow clay, and provided with three larger sheds-the palaver houses The Fain houses resemble those of the Mpongwe; in fact, the tribes, beginning at the Camarones River, build in much the same style, but all are by no means so neat and clean as those of the seaboard. A thatch, whose projecting eaves form deep shady verandahs, surmounts walls of split bamboo, supported by raised platforms of tamped earth, windows being absent and chimneys unknown ; the ceiling is painted like coal tar by oily soot, and two opposite doors make the home a passage through which no one hesitates to pass. The walls are garnished with weapons and nets, both skilfully made, and the furniture consists of cooking utensils and water-pots, mats for bedding, logs of wood for seats and pillows, and lumps of timber or dwarf stools, neatly cut out of a single block. - Their only night-light-that grand test of civi- lization-is the Mpongwe torch, a yard of hard, black gum, mixed with and tightly bound up in dried banana leaves. According to some it is acacia; others declare it to be the "blood" of the hombax, which is also used for caulking. They in the forest, especially during the dries, collect it in hollow bamboos, and pre- pare it by heating in the neptune, or brass pan. 'The odour is pleasant, but fragments of falling fire endanger the hut, and trimming must be repeated every ten minutes. The sexes are not separated ; as throughout inter-tropical Africa, the men are fond of idling at their clubs ; and the women, who must fetch water and cook, clean the hut, and nurse the baby, are seldom allowed to waste time.. They are naturally a more prolific race than those inhabiting the damp, unhealthy lowlands, and the number of the children contrasts pleasantly with the "bleak house" of the debauched Mpongwe, who puts no question when his wife presents him with issue. In the cool of the morning Fitevanga, king of May- yan, lectured me upon the short and simple annals of the Fan. In 1842 the first stragglers who had crossed the Sierra del Crystal are said to have been seen upon the head waters of the Gaboon. I cannot, however, but A4 SPECIMEN DAY WITH LHE FAN CANNIBALS 49 suspect that they are the " Patimways" of whom Bow- dich (** Sketch of Gaboon," p. 429) wrote in the begin- ning of the century, " All the natives on this route are said to be cannibals, the Paimways not so voraciously as the others, because they cultivate a large breed of dogs for their eating." Mr. W. Winwood Reade suspects them to be an offshoot of the great Fulah race, and DEFIANCE. there is nothing in point of dialect to disprove what we must at present consider a pure conjecture. " The Fulah pronouns have striking analogies with those of the Yoruba, Accra, Ashantee, and Timmanee, and even of the great Kaffir class of dialects, which reaches from the equator to the Cape," wrote the late learned E. Norris, in his " Introduction to the Grammar of the Fulah Language" (London : Harrison, 1854). According to the people of the upper river the Fin ¥OL. 11 E 50 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. were expelled by the Bati or Batti-not " Bari" as it has been written-from their ancient seats; and they are still pushing them seawards. The bushmen are said to live seven to ten short marches (seventy to a hundred miles) to the east, and are described by Mr. Tippet, whom they have visited, as a fine, tall, slender, and light-skinned people, who dress like the F&n, but with- out so much clothing, and who sharpen the teeth of both sexes. Dr. Barth heard of the Bati, and Herr Petermann's map describes them * as " Pagans, reported to be of a white colour, and of beautiful shape, to live in houses made of clay, to wear cloth of their own making, and to hold a country from which a mountain is visible to the south-west, and close to the sea." The range in question may be the Long Qua (Kwa), which continues the Camarones block to the north-east, and the Batis may have passed south-westward from Southern Adaméwa. The Fan were accompanied in their seaward move- ment by the Osheba or 'Sheba, the Moshebo and Moshoho of M. du Chaillu's map. They are said to be a tribe of kindred blood and warlike tastes, speaking a remarkably guttural tongue, but intelligible to the Mpidngwe. They too were doubtless pressed forward by the Inner Bati, who are also affected by the Okang, the Yefé, and the Sensobsé. The latter are the innermost known to my negro informants, and their sheep and goats have found their way to the Gaboon; they are doughty elephant- hunters, and they attack the Njina, although they have no firearms. The Mpingwe deride the savagery of these races, who have never heard of a man riding a horse or an ass, which the Mpongwes call Cavala and Buro (burro). The names of these three races, which are described as brave, warlike, and hospitable to strangers, will not be found on any map; indeed, the regions east of the Gaboon belong to the great white blot of inter-tropical Africa, extending from north lati- tude 7° to south latitude 5°. Major de Ruvignes heard also of a tribe called Lachaize (Osheba ?) which excels the Fin in strength and courage as much as the latter * Hutchinson's " Ten Years' Wanderings," p. 319. A SPEQIMNEN DAY WITH THE FLN CANNIBALS, | 51 do the coast tribes : a detachment of them had settled near one of the chief Mpingwe towns, " Mboma." Some days after his arrival he saw several of these people, and describes them as giants, compared with the negro races to which his eye was accustomed. The general stature varied from six feet to six feet four inches ; their complexion was a light café aw lait ; their hair was ornamented with cowries, strung so thickly as to NATIVE PIPES. suggest a skull-cap, whilst long streamers of elephants' tails, threaded with the Cyprsea and brass rings, hung down from the head behind the ears, covering the nape of the neck, All these, we may observe, are Congo customs. In their manufacture of iron, dug by them- selves, they resemble the cannibals. The Fin have now lodged themselves amongst the less warlike, maritime, and sub-maritime tribes, as the (Ashantis) Asiante lately did in Fante-land ; now they E 2 52 APRICA AND ITS EXPLORATIGN. visit the factories on the estuary, and wander as far as the Ogobe. In course of time, they will infallibly " eat up " the Bakele, as the latter are eating up the Mpongwe and Shekyani. They have their own names for neigh- bouring tribes: the Mpongwe, according to Bowdich, called the Shekyani, and the inner tribes " Boolas, a synonym of Dunko in Ashantee ;" hence, probably, the Bulous" of Mr. Hutchinson (p. 258), " a tribe on the Guergay Creek, who speak a different language from the Mpongwes." The Fin call the Mpongwes, Biyok ; the Bikele, Ngon ; the Shekyani, Besek ; and the Gaboon River, Aboka. - The sub-tribes of cannibals, living near my line of march, were named to me as follows :- 1. The L&l& (Oshebas ?), whose chief settlement, Siukwi, is up the Mbokwe River; 2. their neighbours, the Esanvimg ; 3. the Sénikiya, a bush tribe ; 4. the near Mayyin; 5. the Esobi, about Fakanjok; 6. the Esonzel of the Ute, or Auta village ; 7. the Okola, whose chief settlement is Esamasi ; and 8. the Ashemvon, with Asya for a capital. From M. du Chaillu's illustrations (pp. 74, 77) I fully expected to see a large-limbed, black-skinned, and fero- cious-looking race, with huge mustachios and plaited beards. A finely made, light-coloured people, of regular features and decidedly mild aspect, met my sight. The complexion is, as a rule, chocolate, the distinctive colour of the African mountaineer and of the inner tribes ; there are dark men, as there would be in Eng- land, but the very black are of servile origin. Few had any signs of skin-disease ; I saw only one hand spotted with white, like the incipient Morphetico (leper) of the Brazil. Many, if bleached, might pass for Europeans, so " Caucasian " are their features; few are negro in type as the Mpongwe, and none are purely " nigger " like the blacks of maritime Guinea and the lower Con- goese. And they bear the aspect of a people fresh from the bush, the backwoods ; their teeth are pointed, and there is generally a look of grotesqueness and surprise. When I drank tea, they asked what was the good of putting sugar in tobacco water, - The hair is not kinky, A SPECIMEN DAY WITH THE FAN CANNIBALS - 58 peppercorn-like, and crisply woolly, like that of the Coast tribes ; in men, as well as in women, it falls in a thick curtain, nearly to the shoulders, and it is finer than the usual elliptical fuzz. The variety of their per- ruquerie can be rivalled only by that of the dress and ornament. The males affect plaits, knobs, and horns, stiff twists and upright tufts, suddenly projecting some two inches from the scalp; and, that analogies with Europe might not be wanting, one gentleman wore a queue, 2opf, or pigtail, bound at the shoulders, not by a ribbon, but by the neck of a claret bottle. Other heads are adorned with single feathers, or bunches and circles of plumes, especially the red tail-plumes of the parrot FAN HEAD-DRESS. and the crimson coat of the Touraco (Corythrix), an African jay ; these blood-coloured spoils are a sign of war. The Brazilian traveller will be surprised to find the coronals of feathers, the Kennitare (Acangitara) of the Tupi-Guarani race, which one always associates with the New World. The skull-caps of plaited and black- ened palm leaf, though common in the interior, are here rare; an imitation is produced by tressing the hair longi- tudinally from occiput to sinciput, making the head a system of ridges, divided by sealp-lines, and a fan-shaped tuft of scarlet-stained palm frond surmounts the poll. I noticed a fashion of crinal decoration quite new to me. A few hairs, either from the temples, the sides or the back of the head, are lengthened with tree-fibres, and 54 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. threaded with red and white pound-beads, so called by Europeans because the Ib. fetches a dollar. These deco- rations fall upon the breast or back; the same is done to the thin beard, which sprouts tufty from both rami of the chin, as in the purely nervous temperament of Europe; and doubtless the mustachios, if the latter were not mostly wanting, would be blllllldlly treated. Whatever absurdity in hair may be demanded by the trichotomists and philopogons of Europe, I can at once supply it to any extent from Africa-gratis. Gentlemen remarkable by a rate, which as in the Scotch terrier begins above the eyes and runs down the back, should be grateful to me for this sporting offer. Nothing simpler than the Fin toilette. Thongs and plaits of goat, wild cat, or leopard skin gird the waist, and cloth, which is rare, is supplied by the spoils of the black monkey or some other " beef." - The main part of the national costume, and certainly the most remarkable, is a fan of palm frond redolent of grease and ruddled with ochre, thrust through the waist belt; while new and stiff the upper half stands bolt upright and depends only when old. It suggests the " Enduap" (rondache) of ostrich-plumes worn by the Tupi-Guarani barbarians of the Brazil, the bunchy caudal appendages which made the missionaries compare them with pigeons. The fore part of the body is here decked with a similar fan, the outspread portion worn the wrong way, like that behind. The ornaments are seed-beads, green or white, and Lo- angos (red porcelain). The " bunch" here contains 100 to 120 strings, and up country 200, worth one dollar ; each will weigh from one to three, and a wealthy Fan may carry fifteen to forty-five pounds. The seed-bead was till lately unknown ; fifteen to twenty strings make the " bunch." There is not much tattooing atllollmt the men, except on the shoulders, whilst the women plefe the stomach, the gandin, howwer, disfigures himself with powdered cam-wood, mixed with butter-nut, grease, or palm-oil-a custom evidently derived from the coast- tribes. Each has his " Ndese," garters and armlets of plaited palm fibre, and tightened by little cross-bars of A SPECIMEN D4Y WITH TBE FAN - 55 brass; they are the " Hibas" which the Bedawin wear under their lower articulations as preservatives against cramp. Lastly, a Fetish horn hangs from the breast, and heavy copper rings encumber the wrists and ankles. Though unskilful in managing canoes-an art to be learned, like riding and dancing, only in childhood- many villagers affect to walk about with a paddle, like the semi-aquatic Kru-men. Up country it is said they make rafts which are towed across the stream by ropes, when the swiftness of the current demands a ferry. The women are still afraid of the canoe. All adult males carry arms, and would be held womanish if they were seen unweaponed. These are generally battle-axes, spears cruelly and fantastically jagged, hooked and barbed, and curious leaf-shaped knives of archaic aspect ; some of the latter have blades broader than they are long, a shape also preserved by the Mpongwe. The sheaths of fibre or leather are elabo- rately decorated, and it is chic for the seabbard to fit so tight that the weapon cannot be drawn for five minutes ; I have seen the same amongst the Somal. There are some trade-muskets, but the " hot-mouthed weapon " has not become the national weapon of the Fin. Bows and arrows are unknown ; the or cross-bow pecu- liar to this people, and probably a native invention, not borrowed, as might be supposed, from Europe, is carried only when hunting or fighting : a specimen was exhibited in London with the gorillas. The people are said some- times to bend it with the foot or feet like the Tupi- Guaranis, the Jivaros, and other South Americans. Suffice it to remark of this weapon, with which, by the bye, I never saw a decent shot made, that the détente is simple and ingenious, and that the " Ebe " or dwarf bolt is always poisoned with the boiled root of a wild shrub. It is believed that a graze is fatal, and that the death is exceedingly painful: I doubt both assertions. Most men also carry a pliable basket full of bamboo caltrops, thin splints, pointed and poisoned. Placed upon the path of a bare-footed enemy, this rude contrivance, com- bined with the scratching of the thorns, and the gashing 56 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION, cuts of the grass, must somewhat discourage pursuit. The shields of elephant hide are large, square, and pon- derous. - The " terrible war-axe " is the usual poor little tomahawk, more like a toy than a tool. After a bathe in the muddy Mbokwe, I returned to the village, and found it in a state of ferment. 'The Fan, Hike all Anher. African tribes, with whom fighting is our fox hunting, live in a CthIllC state of ten days' war, and can never hold themselves safe; this is the case especially where the slave trade has never been heard of. - Similarly the Ghazwah (" Razzia") of the Bedawin is" for plunder,; not-for captives. are rare, because they will not march in the dark. Battles are not bloody ; after two or three warriors have fallen their corpses are dragged away to be devoured, their friends save themselves by flight, and the weaker side secures peace by paying sheep and goats. On this oczasion the sister of a young “blave had just now been: killed. and :" chopped "_by the king of Nankwi, a neighbouring settlement of Oshebas, and the bereaved brother was ur (rum his comrades with voelfelous speechee to "up and arm." Usually when a man wants " war," he rushes naked through his own village, cursing it as he goes. Moreover, during the last war Mayyin lost five men to three of the enemy ; which is not fair, said the women, who appeared most eager for the fray. All the youths seized their weapons; the huge war-drums, the hollowed bole of a tree fringed with hide, was set up in the middle of the street; preparations for the week of singing and dancing which precedes a campaign were aheady in hand, and one war-man gave earnest of blood-shed by spearing a goat the plopelty of Mr. Tippet. - It being our interest that the peace should be kept 'till after my proposed trip into the interior, I repaired to the palaver-house and lent weight to the advice of my host, who urged the heroes to collect ivory, ebony, and rubber, and not to fight till his stores were filled.. We concluded by carrying off the goat. After great excitement the warriors subsided to a calm; it was broken, however, two days afterwards by the You, IL. THE XELLALA OF THE CONGO RIVER. -To face p. 56: (After a drawing by Sir R. F. Burton.) A SPECIMEN DAY WITH THE FAN CANNIBALS. 57 murder of a villager, the suspected lover of a woman whose house was higher up the Mbokwe River ; he went to visit her, and was incon- tinently speared in the breast by the "injured husband." If he die and no fine be paid, there will be another " war." I made careful inquiry about - anthropophagy amongst the Fin, and my account must differ greatly from that of M. du Chaillu. The reader, however, will re- member that is held by a comparatively civilized race, who have probably learned to conceal a custom so distasteful to all their neighbours, white and black; in the remoter districts can- nibalism may yet assume far more hideous - proportions. Since the Fan have en- couraged traders to settle FAN WARRIOR. amongst them, the interest as well as the terrors of the Coast tribes, who would deter foreigners from direct dealings, has added new horrors to the tale; and yet nothing can exceed the reports of older travellers. During my peregrinations I did not see a single skull. The chiefs, stretched at full length, and wrapped in mats, are buried secretly, the object being to prevent some strong Fetish medicine being made by enemies from various parts of the body. In some villages the head men of the same tribe are interred near one another ; the THB DRUM. commonalty are put singly and decently under ground, and only the slave (Mikd) is thrown as usual into the bush. Mr. Tippet, who had lived three 58 4FPRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. years with this people, knew only three cases of canni- balism ; and the Rev. Mr. Walker agreed with other excellent authorities, that it is a rare incident even in the wildest parts-perhaps opportunity only is wanted. As will appear from the Finn's bill of fare, anthropophagy can hardly be caused by necessity, and the way in which it is conducted shows that it is a quasi-religious rite practised upon foes slain in battle, evidently an equiva- lent of human sacrifice. If the whole body cannot be carried off, a limb or two is removed for the purpose of a roast. The corpse is carried to a hut built expressly on the outskirts of the settlement ; it is eaten secretly by the warriors, women and children not being allowed to be present, or even to look upon man's flesh ; and the cooking-pots used for the banquet must all be broken. 'A joint of " black brother" is never seen in the villages: " smoked human flesh" does not hang from the rafters, and the leather knife-sheaths are of wild cow ; tanned man's skin suggests only the tan- nere de Meudon, an advanced "institution." Yet Dr. Schweinfurth's valuable travels on the Western Nile prove that public anthropophagy can co-exist with a considerable amount of comfort and, so to speak, civili- zation-witness the Nyam-N yam and Mombattu (Mim- buttoo) ~The sick and the dead are uneaten by the Fan, and the people shouted with laughter when I asked a certain question. The " unnatural " practice, which, by the bye, has at different ages extended over the whole world, now con- tinues to be most prevalent in places where, as in New Zealand, animal food is wanting ; and everywhere pork readily takes the place of "long pig." The damp and depressing atmosphere of equatorial Africa renders the stimulus of flesh diet necessary. The Isingu, or Ing- wanba, the craving felt after a short abstinence from animal food, does not spare the white traveller more than it does his dark guides ; and, though the moral courage of the former may resist the " gastronomic practice" of breaking fast upon a fat young slave, one does not expect so much from the untutored appetite of A SPECIMEN DAY WITH THE FAN CANNIBALS. 59 the noble savage. On the eastern parts of the continent there are two cannibal tribes, the Wadoe and the Wabembe ; and it is curious to find the former occupy- ing the position assigned by Ptolemy (iv. 8) to his anthropophagi of the Barbaricus Sinus : according to their own account, however, the practice is modern. When weakened by the attacks of their Wakimbd neighbours, they began to roast and eat slices from the bodies of the slain in presence of the foe. The latter, as often happens amongst barbarians, and even amongst civilized men, could dare to die, but were unable to face the horrors of becoming food after death: the great Cortez knew this feeling when he made his soldiers pretend anthropo- phagy. Many of the Wadoe ne- groids are tall, well made, and light complexioned, though in- habiting the low and humid coast regions-a proof, if any were wanted, that there is nothing un- wholesome in man's flesh. - Some of our old accounts of shipwrecked seamen, driven to the dire neces- sity of eating one another, in- sinuate that the impious food causes raging insanity. The Wa- THs caxxiBar. bembe tribe, occupying a strip of land on the western shore of the Tanganyika Lake, are " Menschenfresser," as they were rightly called by the authors of the "Mombas Mission Map." These miser- ables have abandoned to wild growth a most prolific soil ; too lazy and unenergetic to hunt or to fish, they devour all manner of carrion, grubs, insects, and even the corpses of their deceased friends. The Midgén, or slave- caste of the semi-Semitic Somal, are sometimes reduced to the same extremity ; but they are ever held, like the Wendigo, or man-eaters, amongst the North American Indians, impure and detestable. On the other hand, the Tupi-Guaranis of the Brazil, a country abounding 60 AFRICA AND IFA EXPLORATION. in game, fish, wild fruits, and vegetables, ate one another with a surprising relish. This subject is too extensive even to be outlined here : the reader is re- ferred to the translation of Hans Stade : old travellers attribute the cannibalism of the Brazilian races to " gulosity " rather than superstition ; moreover, these barbarians had certain abominable practices, supposed to be known only to the most advanced races. Anthropophagy without apparent cause was not un- known in Southern Africa. Mr. Layland found a tribe of "cave cannibals" amongst the mountains beyond Thaba Bosigo in the Trans-Gariep Country.* He re- marks with some surprise, " Horrible as all this may appear, there might be some excuse made for savages, driven by famine to extreme hunger, for capturing and devouring their enemies. - But with these people it was totally different, for they were inhabiting a fine agricul- tural tract of country, which also abounded in game. Notwithstanding this, they were not contented with hunting and feeding upon their enemies, but preyed much upon each other also, for many of their captures were made from amongst the people of their own tribe, and, even worse than this, in times of searcity, many of their own wives and children became the victims of this horrible practice." Anthropophagy, either as a necessity, a sentiment, or a superstition, is known to sundry, though by no means to all, the tribes dwelling between the Nun (Niger) and the Congo rivers ; how much farther south it extends I cannot at present say. On the Lower Niger, and its branch the Brass River, the people hardly take the trouble to conceal it. On the Bonny and New Calabar, perhaps the most advanced of the so-called Oil Rivers, cannibalism, based upon a desire of revenge, and per- haps, its sentimental side, the object of imbibing the valour of an enemy slain in battle, has caused many scandals of late years. The practice, on the other hand, is execrated by the Efiks of Old Calabar, who punish any attempts of the kind with extreme severity. During * " Journal of the Ethnological Society," April, 1869. 4 SPECIMEN DAY WiTH THE FAN CANNIBALS. 61 1862 the slaves of Creek-town attempted it, and were killed. - At Duke-town an Ibo woman also cut up C us A TROPHY OF NATIVE AFRICAN HANDICRAFT. a man, sun-dried the flesh, and sold it for monkey's meat-she took sanctuary at the mission house. Yet it is in full vigour amongst their Ibo neighbours to the 62 |- dPRICA AND ITs EXPLORATION. north-west, and the Duallas of the Camarones River also number it amongst their " country customs." - The Mpongwe, as has been said, will not eat a chimpanzee ; the Fin devour their dead enemies. The Fin character has its ferocious side, or it would not be African: prisoners are tortured with all the horrible barbarity of that human wild beast which is happily being extirpated, the North American Indian f and children may be seen greedily licking the blood from the ground. It is a curious ethnological study, this peculiar development of destructiveness in the African brain. - Cruelty seems to be with him a neces- sary of life, and all his highest enjoyments are connected with causing pain and inflicting death. His religious rites-a strong contrast to those of the modern Hindoo are ever causelessly bloody. Take, as an instance, the Efik race, or people of Old Calabar, some 6,000 wretched remnants of a once powerful tribe. For 200 years they have had intercourse with Europeans, who, though slavers, would certainly neither enjoy nor encourage these profitless horrors; yet no savages show more brutality in torture, more frenzied delight in bloodshed, than they do. 'A few of their pleasant practices are- The administration of Esere, or poison-bean ; " Eghbo floggings " of the utmost severity, equalling the knout : Substitution of an innocent pauper for a rich criminal : Infanticide of twins ; and Vivisepulture. And it must be remembered that this tribe has had the benefit of a resident mission for the last generation. I can hardly believe this abnormal cruelty to be the mere result of uncivilization ; it appears to me the effect of an arrested development, which leaves to the man all the ferocity of the carnivor, the unreflecting cruelty of the child. The dietary of these " wild men of the woods" would astonish the starveling sons of civilization. - When will the poor man realize the fact that his comfort and happiness will result not from workhouses and alms- 4 SPEOIMEN DAY WITH THE FAN CANNIBALS - 68 houses, hospitals ar f wate charities, but from that organized and off ,. , igration, so long advocated by the seer Carly' _ 'the crassest ignorance and the listlessness _ *O* tiger}? and want prevent the able- bodied pauper, the frozen-out mechanic, or the weary IN OLD CALABAR. and ill-clad, the over-worked and under-fed agricultural labourer, from quitting the scenes of his purgatory, and from finding, scattered over earth's surface, spots where he may enjoy a comparative paradise, heightened by the memory of privations endured in the wretched hole which he pleases to call his home. But nostalgic is a more common disease than men suppose, and it affects 64 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION,. their physical powers. A natic stem of emigration, to be perfect, must not be a "At y Cte solitary and i AiR not eat : individual hands, who, howevei rous, are ever pining, for the past. - The future will organize the exodus of whole villages, which, like those of the Heb- rides in the last century, will bear with them to new worlds their Lares and Penates, their wives, families, and friends, who will lay out the church and the church- yard after the old fashion familiar to their youth, and who will not forget the palaver-house, vulgarly called pothouse or pub. Few of these Lestrigons lack fish, which they catch in weirs, fowl, flesh of dogs, goats, or sheep; cattle is a luxury yet unknown, but the woods supply an abundance of Nysre and other " bush-beef." - They also have their special word for the meat-yearning. _ Still in the semi- nomadic stage, they till the ground, and yet depend greatly upon the chase. - They break their fast (kidiashe) at 6 A.M., eat a mid-day meal (amos), and sup (gogashe) at sunset, besides " snacks" all through the day when they can find material. They are good huntsmen, who fear neither the elephant (nyok), the hippopotamus (nyok & madzim), frequent in the rivers of the interior, the erocodile, nor the gorilla (nji) It is generally asserted-and the unfortunate Douville re-echoed the assertion-that the river-horse and the crocodile will not live together; the reason is, simply, that upon the seaboard, where these animals were first observed, the crocodile prefers the fresh water of the river, the hippo- potamus the brackish water at its mouth. In the in- terior, of course, they dwell together in amity, because there is nothing for them to quarrel about. The banana, planted with a careless hand, supplies the staff of life, besides thatch, fuel, and fibre for nets and lines: when they want cereals, maize, holeus, and panicum will grow almost spontaneously. - The various palm-trees give building materials, oil, wine, and other requisites too numerous to mention. | The " five pro- ducts of the cow" are ignored, as in the western hemi- none more severely than thos; p [pt are remarkable for A SPECIMEN DAY WITH THE FAN CANNIBALS. - 63 sphere of yore: one of the most useful, however, is produced by the Nje or Njeve, a towering butyraceous tree, differing from that which bears the Shea butter- wut. (Its produce is sun-dried. toasted over a fire, pounded and pressed in a bag between two boards, when it is ready for use. The bush, cut at the end, is fired before the beginning of the rains, leaving the land ready for yams and sweet potatoes almost without using the hoe. In the middle dries, from June to September, the villagers sally forth en masse for a battue of ele- phants, whose spoils bring various luxuries from the coast. Lately, before my arrival, they had turned out to gather the Abd, or wild mango, for Odika sauce ; and during this season they will do nothing else. The Fin plant their own tobacco, which is described as a low, spreading plant, and despise the imported weed ; they neither snuff nor chew. All manufacture their own pipe-bowls, and they are not ignorant of the use of or Hashish. They care little for sugar, con- trary to the rule of Africa in general, but they over-salt all their food ; and they will suck the condiment as children do lollipops. Their palm oil is very poor, as if they had only just learned the art of making it. After the daily siesta, which lasted till 3 Pam., Mr. Tippet asked me to put in an appearance at a solemn dance which, led by the king's eldest daughter, was being performed in honour of the white visitor. A chair was placed in the verandah, the street being the ballroom. Received with the usual salutation, " Mhbo- lane," to which the reply is " An," I proceeded to the external study of Fin womanhood. - Whilst the men are tall and élancés, their partners are usually short and stout, and, "Her stature tall, I hate a dumpy woman," is a matter of taste upon which most of us agree with his lordship. This peculiar breadth of face and person probably result from hard work and good fare, develop- ing adipose tissue. I could not bring myself to admire (fondebiza, the princess royal, -what is grotesque in you. 11. y 66 MAFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. one sex becomes unsightly in the other. Fat, thirty, and perhaps once fair, her charms had seen their prime, and the system of circles and circlets which composed her personnel had assumed a tremulous and gravitating tendency. She was habited in the height of Fan fashion. Her body was modestly invested in a thin pattern of tattoo, and a gauzework of oil and camwood ; the rest of the toilette was a dwarf pigeon-tail of fan-palm, like that of the men, and a manner of apron, white beads, and tree bark, greasy and reddened : the latter was tucked under and over the five lines of cowries, which acted as cestus to the portly middle, " big as a budget." 'The horns of hair, not unlike the rays of light in Michael Angelo's "Moses," were covered with a cap of leaves, and they were balanced behind by a pig- tail Tashed with brass wire. Her ornaments were sundry necklaces of rarious beads, large red and white, and small blue and pink porcelains; a leaf, probably by way of amulet, was bound to a string round the upper arm; and wrists and ankles were laden with heavy rings of brass and copper, the parure of the great in Fin-land. The other ballerine were, of course, less brilliantly attired, but all had rings on their arms, legs, and ankles, fingers, and toes. A common decoration was a bunch of seven or eight long ringlets, not unlike the queues de rat, still affected by the old-fashioned Englishwoman ; these, however, as in the men, were prolonged to the bosom by strings of alternate red and white beads. Others limited the decoration to two rats' tails depending from the temples, where phrenologists localize our " causality." - Many had faces of sufficient piquancey ; the figures, though full, wanted A4 SPECIMEN DaY WITH THE FAN CANNIBALS - 67 firmness, and I noticed only one well-formed bosom. The men wore red feathers, but none carried arms. The form of saltation suggested Mr. Catlin's drawings. A circular procession of children, as well as adults, first promenaded round the princess, who danced with all her might in the centre, her countenance preserving the grand sérieuzx. The performers in this " ging-a-ring " then clapped hands with prolonged ejaculations of o-o-o-oh, stamped and shuffled forwards, moving the body from the hips downwards, whilst H. R. H. alone stood stationary and smileless as a French demoiselle of the last century, who came to the ball not to causer but to danser. At times, when King Fitevanga conde- scended to show his agility, the uproar of applause became deafening. 'The or. chestra consisted of two men sitting op- posite each other,- one performed on a caisson, a log of hol- lowed WOOd, four feet TATTOOING. . high, _ skin-covered, and fancifully carved ; the other on the national Anjy4, a rude " Marimba," the prototype of the pianoforte. It is made of seven or eight hard-wood slats, pinned with bamboo tacks to transverse banana trunks lying on the ground : like the grande caisse, it is played upon with sticks, plectra like tent-pegs. Mr. W. Winwood Reade (" Savage Africa," chap. xiii.) says : " The instrument is also described by Froebel as being used by the Indians of Central America, where, which is still more curious, it is known by the same name-'marimba.'" Of course they borrowed the article and the name from the p 2 68 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. negroes : most tribes in Africa have their own terms for this universal instrument, but it is everywhere recog- nized by the African who knows Europeans as " ma- rimba."" Thus Owen tells us (p. 308) " that at the mouth of the Zambesi it is called 'Tabbelah,'" evidently the Arabic " Tablah." - Another favourite instrument is a clapper, made of two bamboos some five feet long, and thick as capstan bars,-it is truly the castanet en grand. Highly gratified by the honour, but somewhat over- powered by the presence and by that vile scourge the OLD CALABAR FACTORIES, sandfly, I retired after the first review, leaving the song, the drum, and the dance to continue till midnight. Accustomed to the frantic noises of African village-life in general, my ears here recognized an excess of baw! and shout, and subsequent experience did not efface the impression. - But, in the savage and the barbarian, noise, like curiosity, is a healthy sign ; the lowest tribes are moping and apathetic as sick children ; they will hardly look at anything, however strange to them. The rest of my day and week was devoted to the study of this quaint people, and the following are the A SPECIMEN DAF WITH THE FAN CANNIBALS - 69 results. - Those who have dealings with the Fin univer- sally prefer them in point of honesty and manliness to the Mpongwe and Coast races ; they have not had time to become thoroughly corrupt, to lose all the lesser without gaining anything of the greater virtues. . They boast, like John Tod, that they ne'er feared the French, OFF TO THE WAR. and have scant respect for (white) persons ; indeed, their independence sometimes takes the form of insolence. We were obliged to release by force the boy Nyongo, and two of Mr. Tippet's women who had been put " in log "-Anglice, in the stocks. They were wanted as hostages during the coming war, and this rude contri- vance was adopted to insure their presence. 70 AFRICA AND ITE EXPLORATION. Chastity is still known amongst the Fin. The mar- riage tie has some significance, the women will not go astray except with the husband's leave, which is not often granted. The men wax wroth if their mothers be abused. _ It is an insult to call one of them a liar or a coward ; the coast-tribes would merely smile at the soft impeachment, and assure you that none but fools- yourself included by implication-are anything else. Their bravery is the bravery of the savage, whose first object in battle is to preserve his only good, his life: to the civilized man, therefore, they appear but moderately courageous. - They are fond of intoxication, but are not yet broken to ardent spirits: I have seen a single glass of trade rum cause a man to roll upon the ground and convulsively bite the yellow clay like one in the agonies of the death-thirst. They would do wisely to decline intercourse with Europeans ; but this, of course, is im- possible-there is a manifest destiny for them as for their predecessors. The vile practice of the white or West Coast is to supply savages with alcohol, arms, and ammunition ; to live upon the lives of those they serve. The more honourable Moslems of the eastern shores do not disgrace themselves by such greed of gain. The Fan are cunning workers in iron, which is their wealth. Their money is composed of Ikid, dwarf bars shaped like horse-fleams, a coinage familiar to old travellers in West Africa, and of this Spartan currency a bundle-of-ten- represents sixpence, " White man's Ikia" would be silver, for which the more advanced Mpongwe have corrupted the English to " solove." An idea exists on the Lower River that our hardware is broken up for the purpose of being made into spear- heads and other weapons. Buch is not generally the case. The Wamasai, the Somal, and the Cape Kafirs- indeed, all the metal-working African barbarians-call our best Sheffield blades " rotten iron." They despise a material that chips and snaps, and they prefer with ample cause their native produce, charcoal-smelted, and tempered by many successive heatings and hzunmerings, without quenching in water. Nor will they readily A4 SPECIMEN DaY WITH THR FAN CANNIBALS 71 part with it when worked. The usual trade medium is a metal rod ; two of these are worth a franc if of brass, while three of copper represent two frances. There is a PECULIAR ROLK FORMATION. great demand for beads and salt, the latter especially throughout the interior. Thus ended my " first impressions" amongst the Fin cannibals. AFRICA AND ITS EXPLGRA TION:. STRANGERS IN THE CAMP. @HAPIER V. Mr., Mrs., arp Master Tur following interesting account of the great ape, known as the gorilla, is taken from the same graphic pen. The reader will kindly bear in mind, when perusing my notes upon the gorilla, that, as in the case of the Fan cannibalism described by the young French tra- veller, my knowledge of the anthropoid is confined to the maritime region ; moreover, that it is hearsay, fate having prevented my nearer acquaintance with the " ape of contention." The discovery must be assigned to Admiral Hanno of Carthage, who, about B.C. 500 first in the historical period slew the Troglodytes, and arried home their spoils. The next traveller who described the great Troglo- dytes of equatorial Africa was the well- known Andrew Battel; of Leigh, Essex (1589 to 1600);- and his dobcmptmn deserves quoting. " Here (Mayombo) are two kinds of monsters common to these woods. The largest of them is called Pongo in their language, and Yor, I1. THE BUFFALO MANGLES HIS ENEMY. To face p. 12, AR, MRS, AND MASTER GORILLA. To the other Engeco" (in the older editions " Encégo," evidently Nchloo whilst Engeco may have given rise to our " Jocko ”). "* The Pongo is in all his proportions like a man, except the legs, which have no calves, but are of a gigantic size. Their faces, hands, and cars are without hair; their bodies are covered, but -not very thick, with hair of a dunnish colour. _ When they walk on the ground it is upright, with their hands on the nape of the neck. They sleep in trees, and make a covering over their heads to shelter them from the rain. They eat no flesh, but feed on nuts and other fruits; they cannot speak, nor have they any understanding beyond instinct. "* When the people of the country travel through the woods, they make fires in the night, and in the morning, when they are gone, the Pongos will come and sit round it till it goes out, for they do not possess sagacity enough to lay more wood on. They go in bodies, and kill many negroes who travel in the woods. When elephants happen to come and feed where they are, they will fall on them, and so beat them with their clubbed fists (sticks?) that they are forced to run away roaring. 'The grown Pongos are never taken alive, owing to their strength, which is so great that ten men cannot hold one of them. The young Pongos hang upon their mother's belly, with their hands clasped about her. Many of the young ones are taken by means of shooting the mothers with poisoned arrows, and the young ones, hanging to their mothers, are easily taken." I have italicized the passages which show that the traditions still preserved on the coast, about the Pongo and the Chimpanzee, date from old. Surely M. du Chaillu does grave injustice to this good old Briton, who was not a literary man, by declaring his stories to be mere travellers tales, " untrue of any of the great apes of Affica." Battel had evidently not seen the animal, and with his negro informants he confounds the gorilla and the " bushman ;" yet he possibly alludes to a species which has escaped M. du Chaillu and other modern observers. T4 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. Mr. W. Winwood Reade (" Savage Africa," chap. xix. has done good service by reprinting the letter of a Bristol trader on the west coast of Africa, first pub- lished by Lord Monboddo (" Origin and Progress of Language," vol. i. p. 281, 1774 to 1792): Hore we find distinct mention of three anthropoid apes. The first is the "Impungu" (or pongo ?), which walks upright, and is from seven to nine feet high. The second is the "Itsena," evidently the Niina, Nii, Nguyla, or gorilla; and thirdly is the " Chimpenza," FOOTPRINTS OF THE GORILLA. our Chimpanzee, a word corrupted from the Congoese Kampenzy, including the Nchigo, the Kulu-Kamba, and other Troglodytes. I have heard of this upright- walking Mpongo at Loango and other places on the west coast of Africa, where the Njina is familiarly spoken of, and it is not, methinks, impossible that an ape even larger than the gorilla may yet be found. James Barbot (" A Voyage to Congo River," Churchill, vol. v. p. 512) tells us in 1700 that the " kingdom of Angola, or Dongo, produces many such MR., MRS., AND MASTER GORILLA. 75 extraordinary apes in the woods; they are called by the blacks Quojas morrow, and by the Indians Orang- outang, that is satyrs, or woodmen. . . . This creature seems to be the very satyr of the ancients, written of by Pliny and others, and is said to set upon women in the woods, and sometimes upon armed men." Amongst these animals he evidently includes the chimpanzee, as may be seen by his reference to the Royal Exchange, London. In 1776 the pinlosophical Abbe Proyart, im his excellent " History of Loango," tells us (vide the chapter upon animals) that " there are in the forests baboons four feet high ; the negroes affitm that, when they are hard pushed, they come down from the trees with sticks in their hands to defend themselves against those who are hunting them, and that very often they chase their pursuers. The missionaries never witnessed this singularity." According to the people, gorillas five or six feet tall have been seen as lately as 1840 at «"* Looboo Wood," a well-known spot which we shall presently sight, about three miles inland from the centre of Loango Bay. And now the long intervals between travellers' accounts wax shorter. - The well-known writer, Bowdich, before quoted, published, in 1819, his hearsay descrip- tion of the "Ingena," garnished with the usual native tales. I had the honour of receiving an account of his discovery from his widow, the late Mrs. Lee, who was held the " mother of African travellers," and whose energy and intelligence endured to the last-if memory serves me, she referred to some paper upon the subject, written by herself about 1825. Towards the end of 1846, the Rev. Mr. Wilson, founder of the Gaboon Mission, and proto-grammarian of its language, obtained two skulls, which were followed by skeletons, frag- mentary and perfect. He sent No. 1, measuring, when alive, 54 feet in height, and 4 feet across the shoulders, to the " Natural History Society" of Boston. He evidently has a right to boast that he was " the first to call the attention of naturalists to the ' Njena.'" - His 76 AFRICA AND ITS. EXPLORATION colleague, Dr. Thomas Savage, and Professor Jeffrics Wyman called the new animal by the old name of gorilla, suffixing it to the " Troglodytes " which Geoffroy de Saint- thm'c revwmg Linnseus, had proposed in 1812. - In 1847, Dr. Savage published in the " Journal of Natural History " (Boston) the result of his careful inquiries about the " Engé-ena" and the " Enche-eko." in 1852,) this information - was supphmonted by Ms. Ford, also of the Gaboon Mission, with a " Paper on che Gorilla," published in the " Transactions of the Philadelphian Academy of Sciences." M. du Chaillu first had the honour of xlaymw the gorilla in its native wilds. 1 saw his trophies in the United States in 1859; and the sensation which they subsequently created in London (1861-1862) is too recent to require notice. - Unfortunately the specimens were mutilated and imperfect. Mr. R. B. N. Walker, agent of Messrs. Hatton and Cookson at the Gaboon River, was the first to send home a young specimen MR., MRS., AND MASTER GORILLA. Td bodily, stowed away in spirits ; two boiled skeletons of large grey animals, whose skins I saw at the factory, and rum-preserved brains, intestines, and other interest- ing parts, which had vainly been desired by naturalists. Mr. W. Winwood Reade spent five active months in the Gorilla country in 1862 : Major Levison also visited the river, but their hunting was as unsuccessful as mine; whilst, in 1863, Major (now Colonel) De Ruvignes is reported to have been more fortunate. Since that time gorillas have been killed by the French chasseur. e a CAPTURING A YOUNG GORILLA. The young Troglodyte has often been captured. - The usual mode is to fell the tree, and during the confusion bo throw a cloth over its head ; the hands are then pinioned behind, and a forked stick is fastened under the chin to prevent the child biting. I should prefer, for trapping old as well as young, the way in which bears are caught by the North American back woodsman -a hollowed log, with some fruit, plantains for instance, floating in a quant. suff. of sugar, well sugared and narcotized. Concerning the temper of these little captives, there 78 AND ITS EXPLORATION, are heroic differences of opinion. Mr. Ford records the "implacable desperation " of a juvenile which was brought to the Mission. _ " It was taken very young, and kept four months, and many means were used to tame it; but it was so incorrigible, that it bit me an hour before it died." Yet, in face of this and other evidence, Mr. W. Winwood Reade, writing to the " Athensum " (Beptember 7, 1862), asserts that " the young gorilla in captivity is not savage." " Joe Gorilla," M. du Chaillu's brat, was notoriously fierce and unmanageable. The Rev. Mr. Walker, of Baraka, had a specimen, which he describes as a very tractable pupil ; and my excellent friend Major Noeli y White, better known as " Governor White," of Corisco Island, brought to Fernando Po a baby Niina, which in its ways and manners much resembled an old woman. Mr. R. B. N. Walker became the happy godfather of two youngsters, who were different in disposition as Valentine and Orson. One, which measured 18 inches high, and died in 1861, was so savage and morose, that it was always kept chained ; the other, " Seraphino," was of angelic nature, a general favourite at the Factory : it survives, in a photograph taken by the French Commandant of the Comptoir, as it sat after breakfast on godpapa's lap. At first it was confined, but it soon became so tame and playful, that the cage was required only at night. It never bit, unless when teased, and its only fault was not being able to avoid the temptation of eating what disagreed with it-in fact, it was sub-human in some points, and very human in others. All died in direct consequence of dysentery, which even a milk diet could not prevent. Perhaps the best way to send home so delicate an animal would be to keep it for a time in its native forest ; to accustom it to boiled plantains, rice, and messes of grain ; and to ship it during the fine season, having previously fitted up a cabin near the engine-room, where the mercury should never fall below 70° (Fahr.). In order to escape nostalgia and melan- choly, which are sure to be fatal, the emigrant should be valeted by a faithful and attached native. IFR, MES; AND NASTER GORILLA. T9 The habitat of the gorilla has been unduly limited to the left banks of the Gaboon and Ferno Vaz rivers, and to the lands lying between north latitude 2°, and south latitude 2°,-in fact, to the immediate vicinity of the equator. The late Count Lavradio informed me that he had heard of it on the banks of the lower Congo River (south latitude 9°), and the " Soko," which Dr. Livingstone identifies with the Gorilla, extends to the Lualaba or Upper Congo, in the regions immediately west of the Tanganyika Lake. His friends have sug- gested that the "Soko" might have been a chimpanzee, but the old traveller was, methinks, far above making the mistake. The Yorubans at once recognize the picture ; they call the anthropoid "Niki;" and they declare that, when it seizes a man, it tears the fingers asunder. So M. du Chaillu (chapter vi.) mentions, in the Mpongwe report, that the Njina tears off the toe- nails and the finger-nails of his human captives. We should not believe so scandalous an assertion without detailed proof; it is hardly fair to make the innocent biped as needlessly cruel as man. It is well known to the natives of the Old Calabar River by the name of "Omon." In 1860, the brothers Jules and Ambroise Ponceet travelled with Dr. Peney to Ab Kuika, the last of their stations near the head of the Luta Nzige (Albert Nyanza) Lake, and Dr. Peney " brought back the hand of the first gorilla which had been heard of " ("Ocean Highways," p. 482-February, 1874) The German Expedition (1873) reports Chicambo to be a gorilla country ; that the anthropoid is found one day's journey from the Coast, and that the agent of that station has killed five with his own hand. Mr. Thompson of Sherbro (" Palm Land," chap. xiii.) says of the chimpanzee : " Some have been seen as tall as a man, from five to seven feet high, and very powerful." | This is evidently the Njina, the only known anthropoid that attains tall human stature; and from the rest of the passage,* it is clear that he has confounded the chimpanzee with the Nchigo-mpolo. * See chap. ii. 80 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. The strip of gorilla-country visited by me was an elevated line of clayey and sandy soil, cut by sweet- water streams, and by mangrove-lined swamps, backed inland by thin forest. Here the comparative absence of- matted undergrowth makes the landscape sub- European, at least, by the side of the foul tropical jungle; it is exceptionally rich in the wild fruits required by the huge anthropoid. The clearings also supply bananas, pine-apple leaves, and sugar-cane, and Z // , 7 AP there is an abundance of honey, in which, like the Nchigo, the gorilla delights The villages and the frequent plantations which it visits to plunder limit its reproduction near the sea, and make it exceedingly wary and keen of eye, if not of smell. - Even when roosting by night, it is readily frightened by a footstep ; and the crash caused by the mighty bound from branch to branch makes the traveller think that a tree has fallen. The gorilla breeds about December, a cool and dry Yer At TRAVELLERS ON THE CONGO CAUGHT IN Al GALE OF WIND. MB., MRS., AND MASTER GORLLL A. 81 month ; according to my bushmen, the period of gesta- tion is between five and six months. The babe begins to walk some ten days after birth; " chops milk" for three months and, at the end of that time, may reach eighteen inches in height. M. du Chailli makes his child, " Joe, Gorilla," 2 feet 6 inches when under the third year : assuming the average height of the adult male at 5 feet to 5 feet 6 inches, this measurement suggests that, according to the law of Flourens, the life would exceed thirty years I saw two fragmentary skins, thoroughly " pepper and salt ;" and the natives assured me that the gorilla turns silver-white with age. It is still a disputed point whether the weight is supported by the knuckles of the forehand, like the chimpanzee, or whether the palm is the proper fulcrum. M. du Chaills says (" First Expedition," chap. xx.), " the fingers are only lightly marked on the ground ;" yet a few pages afterwards we are told, " The most usual mode of progression of the animal is on all-fours and resting on the knuckles." In the " Second Expe- dition " (chap. ii.) we read, "The tracks of the feet never showed the marks of toes, only the heels, and the track of the hands showed simply the impressions of the knuckles." The attack of the gorilla is that of the apes and the monkeys generally. The big-bellied satyr advances to the assault as it travels, shuffling on all-fours ; " rock- ing" not traversing; bristling the crest, chattering, mowing and displaying the fearful teeth and tusks. Like all the Simiads, this Troglodyte sways the body to and fro, and springs from side to side for the purpose of avoiding the weapon. At times Quasimodo raises himself slightly upon the dwarfed " asthenogenic," and almost deformed hind limbs, which look those of a child terminating the body of a Dan Lambert : the same action may be seen in its congeners great and small. The wild huntsmen almost cried with laughter when they saw the sketches in the " Clorilla Book,"* the mighty pugilist standing stiff and upright as the late * First Edition, Illustration VI. (p. 71), and XLIII. (p. 297). vO: 11. G 82 AFRICA AND IFS EXPLORATION. Mr. Benjamin Caunt, " beating the breast with huge fists till it sounded like an immense bass drum ;" and preparing to deal a buffet worthy of Friar Tuck. They asked me if I thought mortal man would ever attempt to face such a thing as that? With respect to drum- ming with both forehands upon the chest, some asserted that such is the brute's practice when calling Mrs. Gorilla, or during the excitement of a scuffle; but the accounts of the bushmen differ greatly on this point. THE MOHIEGO MBOUYVE. In a hand-to-hand struggle it puts forth one of the giant feet, sometimes the hinder, as "Joe Gorilla " was wont to do; and, having once got a hold with its prehensile toes, it bites and worries like any other ape, baboon, or monkey. - From this grapple doubtless arose the old native legend about the gorilla drawing travellers up trees and "quietly choking them." It can have little vitality, as it is easily killed with a bit of stone propelled out of a trade musket by the vilest gunpowder, and the timid bushmen, when failing to MR., MRS., AND MASTER GORILLA. 83 shoot it unawares, do not fear to attack it openly. As a rule, the larger the Simiad, the less sprightly it becomes; and thee most approaching man are usually the taiicct and t' 3 most melancholy-perhaps, their spirits are permanently affected by their narrow escape. The elderly male (for anthropoids, like anthropoi, wax fierce and sully with increasing years) will fight, but only from fear, when suddenly startled, or with rage when slightly wounded. Moreover, there raust be rogue-gorillas, like rogue- elephants hons hippopotami, 1hmoceros, and even stags, vieux grognards, who, THE AFRICAN LEOPARD. expelled house and home, and debarred by the promis- ing young scions fmm the softening influence of feminine society, become, in their enforced widower hood, the erustiest of old bachelors. - At certain seasons they may charge in defence of the wife and family, but the practice is exceptional. Mr. Wilson saw a man who had lost the calf of his leg in an encounter; and one Etis, a. huntsman whose left hand had been severely crippled, informed Mr. _ W. Winwood Reade, that " the gorilla seized his wrist with his hind foot, and dlagoed his hand into his mouth, as he would have done a bunch of plantains." No one, however, could a 2 84 AFRICA AND ITY EXPLORATION. give me an authentic instance of manslaughter by our b10 brother. The modifications with which we must read the picturesque pages of the " Gorilla Book" are chiefly the following. The Gorilla is a poor devil ape, not a ''hellish (11mm creature, half man, half beast." . He is not king of the African forest ; he fears the Njego or leopard, and as lions will not live in these wet, wooded, and gameless lands, he can hardly have e‘ipelled Kmo Leo. Hp does not choose the " darkest, Gloomlest forests," but prefers the thin woods, where he finds wild fruits for himself and family. His tremendous roar does not shake the jungle : it is a hollow apish ery, a loudish huhh ! huhh ! huhh ! explosive like the pufi' of a steam-engine, which, in rage becomes a sharp and mappmh huh any huntel can imitate ib. Doubtless, in some emeptmnal cases, when an aged mixture of Lablache and Dan Lambelt delivers hlb voce di petto, the voice may be heard for some distance in the still African shades, but it will hardly compare with the howling monkeys of the Brazil, which make the forest hideous. The eye is not a " light grey " but the brown common to all the tribe. The Gorilla cannot stand straight upon his rear quarter when attacking or other- wise enmwed without holding on to a trunk he does not " run on his hind legb, he is essentially a tree ape,; as every stuffed specimen will prove. He never gives a tremendous blow with his immense open paw ; doubtless, a native legend found in Battel and Bowdich ; nor does he attack with the arms. However old and male he tuay be, he runs away with peculiar alacrity : though powerfully weaponed with tigerish teeth, with "* bunches of muscular fibre," and with the limbs of (Goliah, the gorills, on the seaboard at least, is essentially a coward ; nor can we be surprised at his want of pluck, considering the troubles and cireum- stances under which he spends his harassed days. Finally, whilst a hen will defend her chicks, Mrs. Gorilla will fly, leaving son or daughter in the hunter's hands. VIEW OF YELLALA FALLS. fifTo fac: Pe ( $5 :) CHAPTER VE Coxgo Is. 1863. Ix 1863 Sir Richard Burton made a journey up the Congo to the lower cataracts, known as the Yellala Falls, and his account of what he saw of a river that has since become so famous, will be of interest. - Here is a picture A VIEW ON THE CONGO. of life at Banza Nokki, a well-known town on the lower river :- > I was now duly established with my books and instruments at Nkaye, and the inevitable delay was employed in studying the country and the people, and in making a botanical collection. But the season was wholly unpropltlous. A naval officer, who was con- sidered an authority upon the Coast, had advised me to travel in September, when a journey should never begin later than May. The vegetation was feeling the effect of the Cacimbo ; most of the perennials were in seed, 86 AFRICA AND IIS EXPLORATION. and the annuals were nearly dried up. The pictorial effects were those of ,* Autumn laying here and there A fiery finger on the leaves." Yet, with Factotum Selim's assistance, I managed to collect some 490 specimens within the fortnight. We had not the good fortune of the late Dr. Welwitsch (Welwitschia mirabilis), but there is still a copious treasure left for those who visit the Congo River in the right season. I was delighted with the country, a counterpart of the Usumbara Hills in Eastern Africa, disposed upon nearly the same parallel. The Cacimbo season corre- sponded with the Harmattan north of the Line ; still, grey mornings, and covered, rainless noons, so distasteful to the Expedition, which complained that, from four to five days together, it could not obtain an altitude. The curious contrast in a region of evergreens was not wanting, the varied tintage of winter on one tree, and upon another the brightest hues of budding spring. The fair land of grass and flowers " rough but beautiful," of shrubbery-path, and dense mottes or copse islets, with clear fountains bubbling from the rocks, adorned by noble glimpses of the lake-like river, and of a blue horizon, which suggested the ocecan-ever one of the most attractive points in an African landscape-was easily invested by the eye of fancy with gold and emerald and steely azure from above, whilst the blue masses of bare mountain, thrown against a cloudless sky, towered over the black-green sea of vegetation at their base, like icchergs rising from the bosom of the Atlantic. As in the Brazilian Rio de Rio Francisco, the few miles between the mouth and the hill-region cause a radical change of climate. - Here the suns are never too hot, nor are the moons too cold ; the nights fall soft and misty, the mornings bring the blessing of freshness ; and I was never weary of enjoying the effects of dying and reviving day. The most delicate sharpness and THE CONGO IN 1863. 87 purity of outline took the place of meridian reek and blur ; trees, rocks, and chf@lets were picked out with an utter disregard to the perspective of distance, and the lowest sounds were distinctly heard in the hard, clear atmosphere. The damp and fetid vegetation of the Coast wholly disappeared. By the benefit of purest air and water, with long walks and abundant palm wine from the trees hung with calabashes, the traces of «Nanny Po" soon vanished ; appetite and sleep re- turned, nightly cramps were things unknown, and a CONGO, LOOKING NORTH. healthy glow overspread the clammy, corpse-like skin, When the Lower Congo shall become the emporium of lawful trade, the white face will find a sanatorium in these portals of the Sierra del Crystal, -the vine will flourish, the soil will produce the cereals as well as the fruits and vegetables of Europe, and this region will become one of the " Paradises of Africa." The banzas of Congo-land show the constitution of native society, which, as in Syria, and indeed in most barbarous and semi-barbarous places, is drawn together less by reciprocal wants than by the ties of blood. - Here families cannot disperse, and thus each hamlet is a 88 AFRICA AND IFS EXPLORATION. single house, with its patriarch for president and judge. When the population outgrows certain limits, instead of being confounded with its neighbours, it adds a settle- ment upon neighbouring ground, and removal is the work of a single day. The towns are merely big vil- lages, whose streets are labyrinths of narrow pathways, often grass-grown, because each man builds in his own way. Bome translate the word " Banza" by city, un- aware that Central African people do not build cities. Professor Smith rightly explains it " a village, which with them means a paterfamilias, and his private de- pendants." Bo the maligned Douville (i. 159)---" On donne le nom de banza &a la ville ou réside le chef d'une peuplade ou nation neégre. On Fattribue aussi a Ten- ceinte que le chef ou souverain habite avec les femmes et sa cour. Dans ce dernier sens le mot banza veut dire palais du chef." s Our situation is charming, high enough to be whole- some, yet in a sheltered valley, an amphitheatre opening to the south-east or rainy quarter; the glorious trees, here scattered, there gathered in clumps and impene-. trable bosquets, show the exuberant fertility of the soil. Behind and above the village rises a dwarf plateau, rich with plantains and manioc. - After the deserted state of the river banks-the effect of kidnapping-we are sur- prised to find so populous a region. Within cannon- shot there are not less than twelve villages, with a total, perhaps, of 2,400 souls. Banza Nkaye, as usual uninelosed, contains some forty habitations, which may lodge two hundred head. The tenements are built upon platforms cut out of the hill slopes; and the make proves that, even during the rains, there is little to complain of climate. 'Ten of these huts belong to royalty, which lives upon the lowest plane ; and each wife has her own abode, whilst the "senzellas" of the, slaves cluster outside. The foundation is slightly raised, to prevent flooding. The superstructure strikes most travellers as having some- what the look of a ch@let, although Proyart compares it with a large basket turned upside down. Two strong To face p. 88. CONICAL HUTS ON THE CONGO. Yor. 11. THE CONGO IN 1863. 89 uprights, firmly planted, support on their forked ends a long strut-beam, tightly secured ; the eaves are broad to throw off the rain, and the neat thatch of grass, laid with points upwards in regular courses, and kept in site by bamboo strips, is renewed before the stormy season. The roof and walls are composed of six screens ; they are made upon the ground, often occupying months, and they can be put together in a few minutes. The material, which an old traveller says is of © leaves interwoven not contemptibly with one another," is a grass growing everywhere on the hills, plaited and attached to strips of cane or bamboo-palm (Faphia vinifera); the gable " walls" are often a cheque-pattern, produced by twining " tie tic," ' monkey rope," or creepers, stained black, round the dull-yellow ground- work ; and one end is pierced for a door ay, that must not front the winds and rains. It is a small square hole, keeping the interior dark and cool; and the defence is a screen of cane-work, fastened with a rude wooden latch. - The flooring is hard, tamped clay, in the centre of which the fire is laid : the cooking, however, is confined to the broad eaves, or to the compound which, surrounded with neat walls, backs the house. The interior is divided into the usual " but" and " ben." The latter communicates with the former by a passage, masked with a reed screen ; it is the sleeping-place and the store-room ; and there is generally a second wicket for timely escape. The only furniture consists of mats, calabashes, and a standing bedstead of rude construction, or a bamboo cot like those built at Lagos,.-in fact, the four bare walls suggest penury. But in the " small countries," as the " landward towns " are called, where the raid and the foray are not feared, the householder entrusts to some faithful slave large stores of cloth and rum, of arms and gunpowder. The abodes suggest those of our semi-barbarous ancestors, as described by Holingshed, where earth mixed with lime formed the floor; where the fire was laid to the wall; where the smoke, which, besides hardening timber, was expected to keep the good man 90 AND ITS EXPLORATION. and his family from quake and fever, curled from the door; and where the bed was a straw pallet, with a log of wood for a pillow. _ But the Congoese is better lodged than we were before the days of Queen Elizabeth ; what are luxuries in the north, broad beds and deep arm- chairs, would here be far less comfortable than the mats, which serve for all purposes. I soon civilized my hut with a divan, the Hindostani chabutarah, the Spanish estrada, the " mud bank " or " bunting " of Sierra Leone, CONGO, LOOKING SOUTH. a cool earth-bench running round the room, which then wanted only a glass window. But no domestic splen- dour was required ; life in the open air is the life for the tropics : even in England a greater proportion of it would do away with much neuralgia and similar com- plaints. - And, if the establishment be simple, it is also neat and clean : we never suffered from the cimex and pulex of which Captain Tuckey complains so bitterly, and the fourmis voyageuses (drivers), mosquitoes, scor- pions, and centipedes were unknown to us. THE CONGO EN 1863. O1 The people much resemble those of the Gahoon. The figure is well formed, except the bosom, whose shape plolonored lactation, probably upon the p1111c1p1e called Malthusian, soon destroyb ; hence the first child is said to "make the breasts fall." The face is somewhat broad and flat, the jowl wide, deep, and strong, and the cere- bellum is highly developed as in the Slav. 'The eye i well opened, with thick and curly lashes, but the tunica conjunctiva is rarely of a pure white; the large teeth are of good shape and colour. Extensive tattoos appear on breasts, backs, and shoulders: the wearers ave generally slaves, also known by scantier clothing, by darker skins, and by a wilder expression of countenance. During their " country nursing," the children run about wholly nude, except the coatmfr of red wood applied by the mothers, or the dust Gathered from the ground. I could not hear of the weaning custom mentioned by Merolla, the father lifting the child by the arm, and holding him for a time hanging in the air, " falsely believing that by those means he will become more strong and robust." Whilst the men affect caps, the women go bare-headed, either shaving the whole sealp, or leaving a calotte of curly hair on the poll ; it resembles the Shiishah of Western Arabia and East Africa, but it is carried to the fore like a toucan's crest. Some, by way of coquetterie, trace upon the sealp a complicated network, showing the finest and narrowest lines of black wool and pale skin : so the old traveller tells us " the heads of those who aspire to glory in apparel resemble a parterre, you see alleys and figures traced on them with a great deal of ingenuity." The bosom, elaborately bound downwards is covered with a square bit of stuff, or a calico pagne-most ungraceful of ralment—Wlapped under the arms, and extendmw to the knees : " In longitude though sorely scanty, It is their best, and they are vaunty." The poor and the slaves content themselves with grass cloth. The ornaments are brass earrings, beads and imitation coral ; heavy bangles and manillas of brass m 92 AFRICA AND TIS EXPLORATION. and copper, zine and iron, loading the ankles, and giving a dainty elephantine gait; the weight also pro- duces stout mollets, which are set off by bead-garters below the knees. The leg, as amongst hill people generally, is finely developed, especially amongst the flower orders: the "lady's" being often lank and spindled, as in Paris and Naples, where the carriage shrinks the muscles as bandages cramp Chinese feet. In these hamlets women are far more numerous than THE KINGDOM OF CONGO. men. Marriage being expensive amongst the " Mfumo " or gentry, the houses are stocked with Hagars, and the children inherit their father's rank as Mwana Mfumos, opposed to Mwanangambe, labouring people, or Wantu, slaves. The missionaries found a regular system of " hand- fasting." - Their neophytes did not approve of marriage in facie ecclesice, " for they must first be satisfied whether their wife will have children; whether she will be diligent in her daily labour, and, lastly, whether she will prove obedient, before they will marry her. If THE CONGO IN. 1893. 983 they find her faulty in any of these points, they imme- diately send her back again to her parents." The woman, not being looked upon the worse for being returned into stores, soon afterwards underwent another trial, perhaps with success. Converts were fined nine crowns for such irregularities " But, oh!" exclaims a good father, " what pains do we take to bring them to marry the lover, and how many ridiculous arguments and reasons do they bring to excuse themselves from this duty and restraint." He tells us how he refused abso- lution to a dying woman, unless she compelled her daughter to marry a man with whom she was " living upon trial" The mother answered wisely enough, " Father, I will never give my daughter cause to curse me after I am dead, by obliging her to wedlock where she does not fancy." - Whereupon the priest replied, " What ! do you not stand more in awe of a temporal than an eternal curse?" and, working upon the feelings of the girl, who began to tremble and to weep, extorted from her a promise to accept the " feigned husband." He adds, " Notwithstanding this, some obstinate mothers have rather chosen to die unconfessed, than to concern themselves with -the marriage of their daughters." Being obliged to attend Communion at Easter, these temporary couples would part on the first day of Lent; obtain absolution and, a week afterwards, either cohabit once more or find other partners "Ihe " indiscreet method of courtship," popularly known as " bundling," here existed, and was found By Caillié amongst the southern Moors : " When everybody is at rest, the man creeps into his intended's tent, and remains with her till daybreak." An energetic attempt was made to abolish polygamy, which, instead of diminishing population as some sciolists pretend, caused the country to swarm like maritime China. Father Carli, who also dilates upon the evil practice of the sexes living together on trial, candidly owns that his main difficulty lay in " bringing the multitude to keep to one wife, they being wholly averse to that law." Yet old travellers declare that 94 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. when the missionaries succeeded, the people " lived so Christian-like and lovingly together, that the wife would suffer herself to be cut to pieces rather than deceive her husband." - Merolla, indeed, enlarges on the constancy of women, whether white or black, when lawfully married to their mates; and praises them for living together in all manner of love and amity. «" Hence may be learned what a propensity the women have to chastity in these parts, many of whom meet together on the first day of Lent, and oblige themselves, under pain of severe penance, to a strict continence till Easter." In cases of adultery the husband could divorce the wife; he was generally satisfied by her begging his pardon, and by taking a slave from the lover, Widowed " countesses," proved guilty of " immorality," suffered death by fire or sword. - On the other hand, the " prin- cess" had a right to choose her husband ; but, as in Persia, the day of his splendid wedding was the last of his liberty. - He became a prisoner and a slave ; he was surrounded by spies ; he was preceded by guards out of doors, and at the least " écart" his head was chopped off and his paramour was sold. These ladies amply revenged the servitude of their sex- © Asperius nihil est humili cum surgit in altum." Rich women were allowed to support quasi-husbands until they became mothers ; and the slaves of course lived together without marriage. - Since the days of the Expedition a change for the better has come over the gentil sesso. The traveller is no longer in the " dilemma of Frere Jean," and, except at the river-mouth and at the adjacent villages, there is none of that officious com- plaisance which characterizes every hamlet in the faboon country. The men appear peculiarly jealous, and the women fearful of the white face. - Whenever we approached a feminine group, it would start up and run away ; if cooking ground-nuts, the boldest would place a little heap upon the bottom of an upturned basket, push it towards us and wave us off. The lowest orders will submit to a kind of marriage for four fathoms THE CONGO IN 1863. 95 of cloth; exactly double the tariff paid in Tuckey's time (pp. 171-181); and this ratio will apply to all other articles of living. Amongst themselves nubile girls are not remarkably strict; but as matrons they are rigid. The adulterer is now punished by a heavy fine, and, if he ca not pay, his death, as in many parts of the Southern Coas:, is lawful to the husband. The life is regular, and society is simple and patri- archal, as amongst the Iroquois and Mohawks, or in the BATEKE NATIVES. Shetlands two centuries ago. The only excitement, a fight or a slave hunt, is now become very rare. Yet I can hardly lay down the " curriculum vite" as longer than fifty-five years, and there are few signs of great age. - Merolla declares the women to be longer-lived than the men. CGidi Mavunga, who told me that the Congo Expedition visited their Banza when his mother was a child, can hardly be forty-five, as his eldest son shows, and yet he looks sixty. The people rise at dawn and, stirring up the fire, light the cachimbos or large clay pipes which are rarely out of their mouths. Tobacco (nsunza) grows everywhere and, when rudely cured, it 96 AMFPRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. is sold in ringlets or twisted leaves ; it is never snuffed, and the only chaw is the Mik#zo or Kola nut which grows all over these hills ; of these I bought 200 for - 100 coloured porcelain beads, probably paying treble the usual price. No food is eaten at dawn, a bad practice, which has extended to the Brazil and the Argentine Republic; but if a dram be procurable it is taken "por Ia mafians." The slave-women, often escorted by one of the wives, and accompanied by the small girls, who must learn to work whilst their brothers are idling with their rattles, set out with water-pots balanced on their Astrachan wool, or with baskets for grain and firewood slung by a head-strap to the back. The free-born remain at home, bathing and anointing with palm-oil, which renders the skin smooth and supple, but leaves a peculiar aroma; they are mostly cross enough till they have thoroughly shaken off sleep, and the morning generally begins with scolding the slaves or a family wrangle. I have seen something of the kind in Europe. Visiting, chatting, and strolling from place to place, lead to the substantial breakfast or first dinner between 9 and 10 am. Meat rarely appears; river fish, fresh or sun-dried, is the usual " kitchen," eaten with manioc, toasted maize, and peeled, roasted, and scraped plantain : vegetables and palm-oil obtained by squeezing the nut in the hands, are the staple dish, and beans are looked upon rather as slaves' food. They have no rice and no form of " daily bread :" 1 happened to take with me a few boxes of " twice-baked," and this Mbolo was the object. of every chief's ambition. - " Coleworts" are noticed by Merolla as a missionary importation ; he tells us that they produce no seed ; and are propagated by planting the sprouts, which grow to a great height. The greens, cabbages, spinach, and French beans, men- tioned by Tuckey, have been allowed to die out.. Tea, coffee, sugar, and all such exotics, are unappreciated, if not unknown; chillies, which grow wild, enter into every dish, and the salt of native manufacture, brown and earthy, is bought in little baskets. i FISHING-NETS ON THE CONGO. To face p. 96. tae THE CONGO IN 1863. 97 Between breakfast and midday there is a mighty drink. The palm-wine, here called " and on the lower river " Manjewa," is not brought in at dawn, or it would be better. 'The endogen in general use is the elais, which is considered to supply a better and more delicate liquor than the raphia. The people do not fell the tree like the Kru-men, but prefer the hoop of " supple-jack" affected by the natives of Fernando Po and Camarones. A leaf folded funnel-wise, and in- serted as usual in the lowest part of the frond before the fruit forms, conveys the juice into the calabashes, often three, which hang below the crown; and the daily produce may be ten quarts On the first day of tap- ping, the sap is too sweet ; it is best during the following week and, when it becomes tart, no more must be drawn or the tree will be injured. -It cannot be kept; acetous fermentation sets in at once, and presently it coagulates and corrupts. At Banana and Boma it is particularly good ; at Porto da Lenha it is half water, but the agents dare not complain, for the reason which prevents them offering " spliced grog" to the prepotent negro. Euro- peans enjoy the taste, but dislike the smell of palm-wine ; those in whom it causes flatulence should avoid it, but where it agrees it is a pleasant stimulant, pectoral, re- freshing, and clearing the prime vie. Mixed with wine or spirits, it becomes highly intoxicating. The rude beers, called by Merolla Guallo and by Tuckey (p. 120) Baam boo, the OQualo of Douville, and the Pombe of East Africa, mentioned by almost every traveller, are not now found on the lower river. About noon the slaves return from handling their trowel-shaped iron hoes, and the " gentleman" takes a siesta proportioned to his drink. The poorer classes sit at home weaving, spinning, or threading beads, whilst the wives attend to household work, prepare the meals, buy and sell, dig and delve. Europeans often pity the sex thus "doomed to perform the most laborious drudgery ;" but it is a waste of sentiment. The women are more accustomed to labour in all senses of the word, and the result is that they equal their mates in strength ¥OL. A1. H I 908 AFRICA AND TTS EXPLORATION. and stature ; they enjoy robust health, and their children, born without difficulty, are sturdy and vigorous. The same was the case amongst the primitive tribes of Europe ; Zamacola (Anthrop. Mem. ii 38) assures us that the Basque women were physically powerful as the men, with whom they engaged in prize-fights. The master awakes about 3 p.xm. and smokes, visits, OLD: CHIEF IN NATIVE MADE HAT. plays with his children, and dawdles away his time till the cool sunset, when a second edition of the first meal is served up. - If there be neither dance nor festival, all then retire to their bens, light the fire, and sit smoking tobacco or bhang, with frequent interruptions of palm wine or rum, till joined by their partners. Douville (ii. 113), says that the Pangué or chanvre,." croit natu- rellement dans le pays." I believe the questions to be still sub judice, whether the intoxicating cannabis be or THE CONGO IN 1863. 09 be not indigenous to Africa as well as to Asia; and whether smoking was not known in the Old World, as it certainly was in the New, before tobacco was intro- duced. The cannabis Indica was the original ansesthetic known to the Arabs and to civilized Orientals many centuries before the West invented ether and chloro- form. Our landlord has two wives, but one is a mother and will not rejoin him till her child can carry a calabash of water unaided. - To avoid exciting jealousy he lives in a hut apart, surrounded by seven or eight slaves, almost all of them young girls. This regular life is varied by a little extra exertion at seed-time and harvest, by attending the various quitandas or markets of the country side, and by an occasional trip to " town " (Boma). When the bush is burning, all sally out with guns, clubs, and dogs, to bring home " beef." And thus they dwell in the presence of their brethren, thinking little of to-day, and literally following the precept, "Take no thought for the morrow." As the old mis- sioners testify, they have happy memories, their tempers are mild, and quarrels rarely lead to blows; they are covetous, but not miserly ; they share what they have, and they apply the term " close-fist" to the European who gives " nuffin for nuffin." The most superstitious of men, they combine the two extremes of belief and unbelief ; they have the firmest conviction in their own tenets, whilst those of others flow off their minds like water from a greased surface. The Catholic missioners laboured amongst them for near] y two hundred years; some of these ecclesiastics were ignorant and bigoted as those whom we still meet on the West African Coast, but not a few were earnest and energetic, scrupulous and conscientious, able and learned as the best of our modern day. All did not hurry over their superficial tasks like the Neapolitan father Jerome da Montesarchio, who baptized 100,000 souls $ and others, who sprinkled children till their arms were tired. Many lived for years in the country, learning the lan- guage and identifying themselves with their flocks. Yet tp 2 100 AFRICA AND IVS EXPLORATION. the most they ever effected was to make their acolytes resemble the Assyrians whom Shalmaneser transplanted to Assyria, who "feared the Lord and served their graven images" (2 Kings xvii. 83-41). Their only traces are the word " Deus," foully perverted like the Chinese "joss;" and an occasional crucifix which is called cousa de branco-white man's thing. Tuckey was justified in observing at Nokki that the crucifixes, left by missioners, were strangely mixed with native fetishes, A CONGO VILLAGE. and that the people seemed by no means improved by the muddle of Christian and Pagan idolatry. The system is at once complicated and unsettled. There is, apparently, the sensus numins; the vague deity being known as Nzambi or Njambi, which the missionaries translated into God, as Nganna Zambi- Lord Zambi. Merolla uses Zambiabungu, and in the vocabulary, Zabiambunco, for the " Spirit above " (Zambi- a-npungo) - Battel tells us that the King of Loango was called " Sambee and Pango, which mean God." The Abbé Proyart terms the Supreme " Zambi," and applies Zambi-an-pongou to a species of malady brought on by perjury. He also notices the Manichsean idea of THE CONGO IN 1963. 101 Zambi-a-Nbi, or bad-God, drawing the fine distinction of European belief in a deity supremely good, who permits evil without participating in it. But the dualism of moral light and darkness, noticed by all travellers,* is a bond fide existence with Africans, and the missionaries converted the Angolan " Cariapemba " into the Aryo-Semitic Devil. Zambi is the Anyambia of the Gaboon country, a tor et provterea nihil. - Dr. Livingstone (" First Expedition," p. 641), finds the word general amongst the Balonda, or people of Lunda : with the " Cazembes" the word is «* or " Liza," and " O0 Muata Cazembe" (p. 297) mentions the proverb, " Ao Pambi e ao Mambi (the King) nada iguala." In the " Vocabulario da lingua Cafrial " we see (p. 469) that " Murungo " means God or thunder. It is the rudimental idea of the great Zeus, which the Greeks worked out, the God of Ether, the eternal, omnipotent, and omniscient, " who was, who is, and who is to come," the Unknown and Unknowable, con- cerning whom St. Paul quoted Aristseus on Mars' Hill. But the African brain naturally confused it with a some- thing gross and material: thus Nzambi-a-Npungu is especially the lightning god. Cariambemba is, properly, Kadi Mpemba or Ntangwa, the being that slays man- kind : Merolla describes it as an " abominable idol ;" and the word is also applied to the owl, here as in Dahome the object of superstition. I could trace no sign of worship paid to the sun (Tangwa or Muinyi), but there are multitudes of minor gods, probably deified ghosts, haunting particular places. Thus, " Simbi" presides over villages and the " Tadi Nzazhi," or Light- ning Rock, near Boma; whilst the Yellala is the abode of an evil being which must be propitiated by offerings. As usual amongst Fetish worshippers, the only trace of belief in a future state is faith in reverants-returning men or ghosts. Each village has an idol under a little wall-less roof, apparently an earthen pot of grease and feathers, called * Tuckey (p. 214), and the General Observations prefixed to the Diaries. 102 AND ITS EXPLORATION. Mavunga. This may be the Ovengwa of the " Camma people," a " terrible catcher and eater of men, a vampire of the dead ; personal, whilst the Ibamba are indistinet ; tall as a tree ; wandering through the woods, ever wink- ing; whereas the Greek immortals were known by their motionless eyelids. " Ngolo Wanga" is a man-shaped figure of unpainted wood, kept in the hut. Every house is stuck inside and outside with idols and fetishes, inter- preters of the Deity, each having its own jurisdiction over lightning, wind, and rain ; some act as scarecrows : others teach magic, avert evils, preserve health and sight, protect cattle, and command fish in the sea or river. They are in all manner of shapes, strings of mucuna and poison-beans; carved images stuck over with feathers and tassels; padlocks with a cowrie or a mirror set in them ; horns full of mysterious " medicine ;" iron-tipped poles; bones ; birds' beaks and talons ; skins of snakes and leopards, and so forth. We shall meet them again upon our travels. No man walks abroad without his protecting charms, Nkisi or Nkizi, the Monda of the Gaboon, slung en baudrier, or hanging from his shoulder. The portable fetish of our host is named " Baka chyi Mazinga : Pro- fessor Smith (p. 323) makes " Maézenga " to be " fetishes for the detection of theft." These magicce vanitates are phylactics against every evil to which man's frailty is heir. The missioners were careful not to let their Congo converts have anything from their bodies, like hair or nail parings, for fear lest it be turned to superstitious use; and a beard (the price of conversion) was refused to the " King of Micocco." Like the idols, these talis- mans avert ill luck, bachelorhood, childlessness, poverty, and ill health ; they are equally powerful against the machinations of foes, natural or supernatural ; against wild beasts, the crocodile, the snake, and the leopard ; and against wounds of lead and steel. They can pro- duce transformations; destroy enemies; cause rain or drought, fine or foul weather; raise and humble, enrich and impoverish countries; and, above all things, they are sovereign to make man brave in battle: Shortly » THE- CONGO IN t8G3. 1OsS before we entered Banza Nkaye a propitiation of the tutelary gods took place: Coxswain Deane had fired an Enfield, and the report throughout the settlement was that our guns would kill from the river-bank. The Nganga of Congo-land, the Mganga of the Wasawahili and the Uganga of the Gaboon, exactly GROUP OF CONGO NATIVES, corresponds with M. Michelet's Sorciére of the Middle Ages, " physicienne," that is doctor for the people and poisoner ; we cannot, however, apply in Africa the adage of Louis XIII.'s day, "To one wizard ten thousand witches." - In the " Muata Cazembe" (pp. 57, et passim} we read " O Ganga or O Surjio;" the magician is there called " Muroi," which, like " Fite," is also applied to magic. The Abbé Proyart opines of 104 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION his professional brother, "he is lonomnt as the rest of the people, but a greater rogue,"-a pregnant saying. Yet here "the man of two worlds" is not Phomme de revolution, and he suffices for the small " spmtua] wants" of his flock. He has charge of the " Kizila," the " Chigella " of Merolla and the " 011151311ch " of James Barbot—Anqlzw putting things in fetish, which cor- responds with the Tahitian tapn or taboo. - The African idea is, that he who touches the article, for instance, gold on the eastern coast of Guinea, will 1nev1tably come to grief. When " fetish is taken off," as by the seller of palm wine who tastes it in presence of the buyer, the precaution is evidently against poison. Many of these " Kizila " are self—mlposcd for instance a water melon may never enter Banza Nokki, and, though slaves may eat bananas upon a journey, the master may not. - Others refuse the flesh of a fowl until it has been tasted by a woman. These rules are delivered to the young, either by the fetishman or the parents, and, when broken, they lead to death, doubt- less often the consequence of strong belief - The Ncganga supemntends as grand 1nqulslt0r the witch- Oldedl by causing the accused to chew red-wood and other druOb in thls land feraz venenorum. Park was right : “By witchcraft is meant pretended magic, afiectmo the lives and healths of persons, in other words it is the administering of poison." _ European Narratives of Sorcery and Magic" exactly explain the African idea, except in one point: there the witch " only suffered from not being able to prove to Satan how much she burned to suffer for his sake ;" here she has no Satan. - Both European and African are the firmest believers in their own powers ; they often confess, although knowing that the confession leads dnectly to torture and death with all the diabolical ingenuity of which either race was capable. In Tue keyb time a bargain was concluded by lneakum‘ a leaf or a blade of grass, and this rite it was " found necessary to pelform with the seller of every fowl :" apparently it is now obsolete. Finally, although the ‘ izhw WJ sent.. | D I | Th sal 1 } A u mITT L L2 Vor. 11. A STREET IN A CONGO VILLAGE. To face p. 104. THE CONGO IN 1965. 105 Fetish man may be wrong, the fetish cannot err. If a contretemps occur, a reason will surely be found ; and, should the .c doctor" die, he has fallen a victim to a rival or an enemy more powerful than himself. A striking institution of the Congo region is that of the Jinkemba, which, curious to say, is unnoticed by Tuckey. - It is not, however, peculiar to the Congo ; ib is the " Remo " of the Susus or Soosoos of the Wind- ward Coast, and the " Purrah" of the Sherbro-Balloms or Bulloms, rendered Anglicé by " free-masonry." - The FETISH BOY, novitiate ' there lasts for seven or eight years, and whilst the boys live in the woods food is placed for them by their relations : the initiation, indeed, appears to be especially severe. Here all the free-born males are subjected to the wrongly called " Mosaic rite." Merolla tells us that the wizards cireumcise children on the eighth day (like the Jews), not out of regard for the law, but with some wicked end and purpose of their own. At any time between the ages of five and fifteen (eight to ten being generally preferred), boys are taken from their parents (which must be an ex- 106 AFRICA AND IFS EXPLORATION. ceeding comfort to the latter), and for a native year, which is half of ours, they must dwell in the Vivala ya Ankimba, or Casa de Feitico, like that which we passed before reaching Banza Nokki. They are now instructed by the Nganga in the practices of their intricate creed ; they are taught the mysteries under solemn oaths, and, in fine, they are prepared for marriage. - Upon the Congo they must eat no cooked food, living wholly upon roots and edibles ; but they are allowed to enter the villages for provisions, and here they often appear armed with matchets, bayonets, and wooden swords. Their faces and necks, bodies and arms, are ghastly white with chalk or ashes ; the hair is left in its original jet, and the dingy lower limbs contrast violently with the ghostlike- absence of colour above. The dress is a crinoline of palm-fronds, some fresh and green, others sere and brown; a band of strong mid-rib like a yellow hoop passed round the waist spreads out the petticoat like a farthingale, and the ragged ends depend to the knees ; sometimes it is worn under the axills, but in all cases the. chalked arms must be outside. - The favourite attitude is that of the Rhodian Colossus, with the elbows bent to the fore and the hands clasped behind the head. 'To increase their prestige of terror, the Jinkomba abjure the use of human language, and, meeting a stranger, ejaculate with all their might, " Hairar-tr-iwr!" and " Jojolo !. Jojolo !" words mystic and meaningless. When walking in procession, they warn the profane out of the way by striking one slip of wood upon another. - They are wilder in appearance than the Hindu Jogi or Sanyasi, who also affects the use of ashes, but neglects that of the palm-thatch. _ It is certainly enough to startle a man of impressible nerves-one, for instance, who cannot enter a room without a side-long glance at an unexpected coffin-- to see these hideous beings starting with their savage cry from the depths of an African forest. Evidently, also, such is the intention of the costume. Contrasting the Congoese with the Goanese, we obtain a measure of difference between the African and ~ THE CONGO EPN 1863. 107 the Asiatic. - Both were Portuguese colonies founded about the same time, and under very similar cireum- stances ; both were catechized and Christianized in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries; both had governors and palaces, bishops and cathedrals, edu- cational establishments and a large staff of missioners. But Asia was not so inimical, mentally or bodily, to the European frame 'as Africa; the Goanese throve after a fashion, the mixed breed became the staple population, and thus it continues till this day. On the other hand the Hamitic element so completely asserted its superiority over insititious Japheth, that almost every trace has dis- appeared in a couple of centuries. - 'There lingers, it is true, amongst the Congoese of the coast-regions a some- thing derived from the olden age, still distinguishing them from the wild people of the interior, and at times they break out naturally in the tongue of their conquerors. But it requires a practised eye to mark these minutise. The Congoese are pass- A By-YANZL ably brave amongst them- selves; crafty and confined in their views, they carry " knowledge of life" as far as it is required, and their ceremonious intercourse is remarkable and complicated. They have relapsed into the analphabetic state of their ancestors; they are great at eloquence; and, though without our poetical forms, they have a variety of songs upon all subjects, and they improvise panegyrics in honour of chiefs and guests. Their dances have been copied in Europe. Without ever inventing the modes of the (ireeks, which are still preserved by the Hindoos, they have an original music, dealing in harmony rather than in tune, and there are motives, of course all in the minor key, which might be utilized 108 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION, by advanced peoples; these sons of nature would especially supply material for that recitative which Verdi first made something better than a vehicle for dialogue. Hence the old missioners are divided in opinion; whilst some find the sound of the "little guitar," with strings of palm-thread and played with the thimbs of both hands, "very Jow, but not un- grateful," others speak of the " hellish harmony" of their neophytes bands. The instrument alluded to is the nsambi or nchambi; four strings are attached to bent sticks springing from the box ; it is the wambi of the Shekyanis (Du Chaillu, chap. xii.), but the bridge, like that of our violin, gives it an evident superiority, and great care and labour are required in the maker. This form of the universal marimba is a sounding- board of light wood, measuring eight inches by five ; some eight to eleven iron keys, flat strips of thin metal, pass over an upright bamboo bridge, fixed by thongs to the body, and rest at the further end upon a piece of skin which prevents " twanging." The tocador or per- former brings out soft and pleasing tones with the sides of the thumbs and fingers. They have drums and the bell-like cymbals called chingufu: M. Valdez (ii. 221 ef passim), writes " Clineufo," which he has taken from a misprint in Monteiro and Gamitto. The chingufu of East Africa is a hollow box performed upon with a drum-stick of caoutchoue. - The pipes are wooden tubes with sundry holes and a bridge below the mouth-piece ; they are played over edge like our flutes. | The " hellish harmonies" mostly result from an improvised band, one strumming the guitar, another clapping the sticks, and the third beating the bell-shaped irons that act as castanets. f R The language of the people on and near the Congo River is called " Fiote," a term used by old travellers to denote a black man as opposed to Mundele (white), and also applied to things, as Bondefiote or black baft. James Barbot (p. 512) gives specimens of some thirty- three words and the numerals in the " Angoy language;, spoken at (Cabinde," which proves to be that of the THL CONGO LN 1863. 109 River. Of these many are erroneous: for instance, "nova," to sleep (ku-nds) ; " sursu," a hen (hsusu) : while " fioa," scarlet: " balzo ; and ~ inmu," tobacco, are corrupted Portuguese A young lad, " muleche " (moleque), Father Merolla's " molecchas, a general name among the negroes," for which Douville refers " molcke" (mase.) and " molecka" (fem.), is p C O C C ) * J3 x applied only to a slave, and in this sense it has extended BANKS OF THE CONGO. west of the Atlantic. In the numerals, " wale" (2) should be " " gquina" (4) " kuys," and-" evens" (9) We may remark the pentenary system of the Windward: Coast and the Gaboon negroes ; eq., 6 is A ((most avd "tamo 1 } 3a) and 7 is " sambwale " (" mose " and " kwale ") and so forth, whilst " kumi" (10), possibly derived from neighbouring races, belongs to the decimal system. The first attempt at a regular vocabulary was made by Douville (vol. iii. p. 261) : " Vocabulaire de la Langue I1 f 'L1I0O AND TTS EXPLORATION. Mogialoua, et des deus dialects principaux Abunda (Angolan) et Congo" (Fiote); it is also very incorrect. The best is that published in Appendix No. 1 to the Congo Expedition, under the name of "Embomma ; we may quote the author's final remark: " This voca- bulary I do not consider to be free from mistakes which I cannot now find time to discover. All the objects of the senses are, however, correct." M. Parrot showed me a MS. left at Banana Point by a French medical officer, but little could be said in its praise Monteiro and Gamitto (pp. 479-480) give seventeen " Conguez " words, and the Congo numerals as opposed to the " Bundo." The Fiote is a member of the great South African family ; some missionaries argued, 110m its beauty and richness, that it had formerly been written, but of this there is no proof. M. Malte-Brun supposes the Congoese dialects to indicate "a meditative genius foreign to the habitual condition of these people," ignoring the fact that the most complicated and laborious tongues are those of barbarous nations, whilst modern civilization invariably labours to simplify. It is copious ; every place, tree, shrub, or plant used by the people has its proper name ; it is harmonious and pleasing, abounding in vowels and liquids, destitute of gutturals, and sparing in aspirates and other harsh consonants. At the same time, like the rest of the family, it is clumsy and un- wieldy, whilst immense prolixity and frequent repetition must develope the finer shades of meaning. Its peculi- arity is a greater resemblance to the Zanzibarian Kisa- wahili than any tongue known to me on the Western Coast: often a questlon asked by the guide, as "Vjia ?" (Is this the road ?) and " Jina lako nin{?" (What's your name?) was perfectly intelligible to me. The latter is a fair specimen of the pOLulldl euphony which I have noticed in " Zanzibar" (vol. i. chap. x.). We should expect " Jina jako," whereas this would offend the native ear. _ It requires a scholar-like knowledge of the tongue to apply the curious process «011th1}, and the self-sufficient critic should beware how he attempts to correct quotations from the native languages. THE CONGO IN 1863. 111 I need hardly say that the speakers are foul-mouthed as the Anglo-African of S'a Leone and the " English" Coast; they borrow the vilest words from foreign tongues ; a spade is called a spade with a witness, and feminine relatives are ever the subject of abuse; a practice which, beginning in Europe with the Slav race, extends more or less throughout the Old World. I specify the Old World, becuubc the so-called - Indians of North and South America apparently ignore the A CONGO STATION. habit except where they have learned it from Southern Europe. Finally, cursing takes the place of swearing, the latter being confined, I believe, to the Scandinavians, the Teutons, and their allied races. Nothing can be more unpleasant than the Portuguese spoken by the Congoman. He transposes the letters lacking the proper eounds in his own tongue ; for instance, # xmholo (Ginvolo) is senhor; " munyele or " min yele is "mulher; - © O Ino stands in lien of " O rio. 112 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. (the river); " rua " of "Tua " (luna), and so forth. - For to-morrow you must use " cedo" as " manhia" would not be understood, and the prolixity of the native lan- guage is transferred to the foreign idiom. For instance, if you ask, " What do you call this thing ?" the para- phrase to be intelligible would be, " The white man calls this thing so-and-so ; what does the Fiote call this thing ?" sixteen words for six. -I have elsewhere re- malked how Englishmen make themselves unintelligible by transferring to Hindostani and other Asiatic tongues the conciseness of their own idiom, in which as much is understood as is expressed. We can well understand the outraged feelings with which poor Father Cannecattim heard his sermons travestied by the Abundo negroes do Paiz or linguists, the effect of which was to make him compose his laborious dictionary in Angolan, Latin, and Portuguese. His wrath in reflecting upon " estos homems ou estos brutos" drives the ecclesiastic to imitate the ill-conditioned layman who habitually ad- dresses Jug slave as <" O0. brato ! O- O hicho ! () diabo !" when he does not apply the more injurious native terms as " Konongwako" and " Vendengwandi." It is only fair to confess that no race is harsher in its language and manners to its " black brethren," than the liberated Africans of the English settlements. At Banza Nokki I saw the first specimen of a Mundongo slave girl. The tribe is confounded with the Madingo Olandenon) Moslems by the author of the " Introduction to Tuckey's Journey " (p. Ixxxi.); by Tuckey (p. 141), who also calls them Mandonzo (p. 100) and by. Prof. Smith (p. 315); but not by the accurate Marsden (p. 389). She described her tribe as living inland to the east and north-east of the Congo people” distant two. moons-a detail, of course, not to be depended upon. I afterwards met many of these " captives," who declared that they had been sold after defeats: a fine, tall race, one is equal to two Congo men, and the bold- ness of demeanour in both sexes distinguishes them from other serviles. Apparently under this name there are several tribes inhabiting lands of various alevations ; LOOKING DOWN THE CONGO FROM ISANGILA. : To face p. 112. THE CONGO IN 1S6Ss. I1J some are coloured cafe aw lait, as if born in a high and healthy region; others are almost jet black, with the hair frightfully " wispy," like a mop. Generally the head is bullet-shaped, the face round, the features negroid, not negro, and the hands and feet large but not ill-shaped. Some again have the Hausa mark, thread-like perpen- dicular cuts from the - zygomatic arches - running parallel with the chin; in other cases the stigmata are broad _ beauty- slashes drawn trans- versely across the cheeks to the jaw- bone, and forming with the vertical axis an angle of 45°. All are exceedingly fond of meat, and, like the Kru-men, will devour it semi- putrified. The Congoese declare them to be " papa- gentes" (cannibals), a term generally applied by . the [t more advanced to I “W the bushmen living A BASUNDT beyond their fron- tier, and useful to aeter travellers and runaways. They themselves declare that they eat the slain only after a battle-the sentimental form of anthro- pophagy. The slave-girl produced on this occasion was told to sing ; after receiving some beads, with- out which she would not open her lips, we were treated to a " criard" performance which reminded yOL. IF I " f \ i \| 114 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION: me of the "heavenly muse" in the Lake Regions of Central Africa. The neighbours of the Mundongos are the Mubangos, the Muyanji (Muyanzi?), and the Mijolo, by some called Mijere. Possibly Tuckey alludes to the Mijolos when he tells us (p. 141), that the " Mandingo " slave whom he bought on the Upper River, called his country "M'intolo." I have seen specimens of the three, who are so similar in appearance that a stranger distinguishes them only by the tattoo. No. 1 gashes a Ime from the root of the hair to the commissure of the nose: No. 2 has a patch of cuts, five in length and three in depth, extending from the bend of the eye-brow across the zygomata to the ear; and No. 3 wears cuts across the forehead. I was shown a sword belonging to the Mijolo : all declared that it is of native make; yet it irresistibly suggested the old two-handed weapon of Europe, preserved by the Bedawin and the Eastern Arabs, who now mostly derive it from Bollingen. The long, straight, flexible, and double-edged blade is neatly mounted by the tang in a handle with a pommel, or terminating knob, of ivory ; others prefer wood. The cuard is very peculiar, a thin bar of iron springing from the junction of blade and grip, forming an open oval below, and prolonged upwards and downwards in two branches parallel with the handle, and protecting the hand. They dance, brandishing this weapon, ac- cording to the slaves, in the presence of their princes. I inquired vainly about the Anzicos, Anzichi, Anzigni, of Anziki, whose king, Makoko, the ruler of thirteen kingdoms, was placed by Dapper north-west of Monemugi and whom Pigafetta (p. 79) located close to the Congo, and near his northern Lake. "It is true that there 'are two lakes, not, however, lying east and west (Ptolemy's system), but north and south of each other, and about 400 miles asunder. | The first is in south datitude 12. The Nile, issuing from it, does not, according to Odoardo (Duarte Lopez), sink in the earth nor conceal itself, but, after flowing northwards, it enters the second lake, which THE CONGO IN 1863. 115 is 220 miles in extent, and is called by the natives a sea." _ If the Tanganyika shall be found to connect with the Luta Nzige or Mwutan Lake, this passage will be found wonderfully truthful. _ The Tanganyika's southern versant is now placed in south latitude 8° 46' 54", or in round numbers 9°, and the other figures are nearly as GRASS APRON. correct. James Barbot causes these Anzikos to wander " almost through all Africa," from Nubia to the Congo, like negro Bedawin or Seythians ; the common food was man's flesh fattened for the market and eaten by the relatives, even of those who died diseased. Their "* capital," Monsol, was built by D'Anville, close to the equator in the very centre of Africa (east longitude L2 ety Kia .s bet ELECT Coen e ca cane 116 AFPRICA AND TFS EXPLORATION Greenwich, 26° 20") hard by Douville's " Yanvo ;" and the " Opener of Inner Aftica in 185%" (pp: 3; 4, 69), with equal correctness, caused them to " occupy the hills opposite to Sundi, and extending downwards to Emboma below the Falls." Mr. Cooley ("Ocean Highways," June, 1878), now explains the word as A-nzi-co, " people not of the country," barbarians, bushmen. This kind of informa- tion, derived from a superficial knowledge of an Angolan vocabulary, is peculiarly valueless. I doubt that a negative can thus be suffixed to a genitive. The name may simply have been A-nziko (man) of the pack-settlement. In 1882, Mr. Cooley writes: " the nation of the Anzmiko (or Ngeco): "im 1845; " the Ansili, north of Congo:" in 1852, "the. Micoco or king of the Ansziko"-und so weiter. What can we make of this geographical Proteus? The first Congo Expedition who covered all the ground where the Creator of the Great Central Sea places the Anzikos, never heard of them-nor will the second. Not being then so well convinced of the non-existence of the Giaghi, Giagas, Gagas, or Jagas as a nation, I inquired as vainly for those terrible cannibals who had gone the way of all the Anzikos. - According to Lopez, Battel, Merolla, and others, they " consider human flesh as the most delicious food, and goblets of warm blood as the most exquisite beverage." - This act on the part of savage warriors might have been a show of mere bravado. But I cannot agree with the editor of Tuckey's " Narrative," " From the character 'and dis- position of the native African, it may fairly be doubted whether, throughout the whole of this great continent, a negro cannibal has any existence." The year 1816 was the Augustan age of outrageous negrophilism and equally extreme - anti-Napoleonism. © If a ~Freuch general " (Introduction, p. i) " brutally seized the person and papers of a British naval officer, on his return from a voyage of discovery," who, I would ask, plundered and destroyed the fine botanical collection made at risk of health and life, during fifteen months FAE CONGO PN 1863. 117 of hard labour, by the learned Palisot de Beauvois, author of the © Flore diOware ?" "Ihe " Reviewer " of Douville (p. 177) as sensibly declares that cannibalism * has hitherto continually retired before the investigation of sober-minded, enlightened men,' when, after a century or two of intercourse with white traders, it still flourishes on the Bonny and New Calabar Rivers. We are glad to be rid of the Jagas, a subject which has a small literature of its own ; the savage race appeared everywhere like a " deus ex maching," and it became to Intertropical Africa what the " Lost Tribes" were, and even now are in some cases, to Asia and not rarely to Europe. Even the sensible Mr. Wilson (" West Africa," p. 288) has "no doubt of the Jagas being the same people with the more modernly dis- covered Pangwes" (Fins) ; and this is duly copied by M. du Chaillu (chap. viii) M. Valdez (ii 150) more sensibly records that the first Jaga established in Portuguese territory was called Colaxingo (Kolashingo), and that his descendants were named " Jagas," like the Egyptian Pharaohs, the Roman Cresars, the Austrian Kaisers, and the Russian Czars: he also reminds us (p. 150) that the chief of the Bangalas inhabiting Cassange (= Kasanji) was the Jaga or ruler par excellence. Early on the morning of September 11, I was aroused by a "bob" in the open before us We started up, fearing that some death by accident had taken place : the occasion proved, on the contrary, to be one of ushering into life. The women were assembled in a ring round the mother, and each howled with all the might of her lungs, either to keep off some evil spirit or to drown the sufferer's cries In some parts of Africa, the Gold Coast for instance, it is considered infamous for a woman thus to betray her pain, but here we are amongst a softer race. 118 AWVRICA AND IITS EXPLORATION. CHAPTER VM. THE YELLALA OF THE Conco. Tur following is a description of the famous Yellala Falls :- At dawn (September 16), I began the short march leading to the Yellala. _ By stepping a few paces south of Nkulu, we had a fine view of the Borongwa ya Vivi, the lowest rapids, whose foaming slope contrasted well with the broad, smooth basin beyond. Palabala, the village of Nekorado on the other side of the stream, bore south (Mag.), still serving as a landmark ; and in this direction the ridges were crowned with palm orchards and settlements. But the great Yellala was hidden by the hill-shoulder. We at once fell into a descent of some 890 feet, which occupied an hour. The ground was red iron-clay, greasy and slippery ; dew-dripping grass, twelve to fifteen feet tall, lined the path ; the surface was studded with dark ant-hills of the mushroom shape; short sycamores appeared, and presently we came to rough gradients of stone, which severely tried the " jarrets." After an hour, we crossed at the trough-foot a brook of pure water, which, uniting with two others, turns to the north-east, and, tumbling over a little ledge, discharges itself into the main drain. An ascent then led over a rounded hill with level summit, and precipitous face all steps and drops of rock, some of them six and seven feet high, opposed to the stream. _ Another half hour, and a descent of 127 feet placed us under a stunted calabash, 100 feet above the water, and commanding a full view of the Yellala. On the whole, the impression was favourable. Old Shimbah, the Linguister at Porto da Lenha, and other THB YELLALA OF THE CONGO. MtS natives had assured me that the Cataracts were taller than the tallest trees. On the other hand, the plain and unadorned narrative of the " Expedition " had pre- pared me for a second-rate stream bubbling. over a strong bed. The river here sweeps round from the north-west, and bends with a sharp elbow first to the south-west and then to the south-east, the length of the latter reach being between four and five miles. As far as the eye can see, the bed, which narrows from 900 to SOME INHABITANTS OF THE CONGO. 400 and 500 yards, is broken by rocks and reefs. A cate at the upper end pours over its lintel a clear but dwarf fall, perhaps two feet high. The eastern staple rises at first sheer from the water's edge to the estimated altitude of a thousand feet-this is the " Crocodile's Head" which we saw on the last march, and already the thin rains are robing its rocky surface with tender green. - The strata are disposed at angles, varying from 855" to 45". and three streaks of bright trees denote Fiumaras about to be filled. Oppositeuit is the " Quoin 120 AFRICA AND IVS EXPLORATION. Hill," bluff to the stream, and falling west with gradual incline. 'The noise of this higher fall can hardly be heard at Nkulu, except on the stillest nights. Below the upper gate, the bed, now narrowing to 300 yards, shows the great Yellala ; the waters, after breaking into waves for a mile and a half above, rush down an inclined plane of some thirty feet in 300 yards, spuming, colliding and throwing up foam, which looks dingy white against the dull yellow-brown of the less disturbed channel-the movement is that of waves dashing upon a pier. The bed is broken by the Zunga chya Malemba, which some pronounced Sanga chya Malemba, an oval islet in mid-stream, whose greater diameter is disposed along the axis of the bed. The north-western apex, raised about fifty feet above the present level of the waters, shows a little bay of pure sand, the detritus of its rocks, with a flood-mark fifteen feet high, whilst the opposite side bears a few wind- wrung trees The materials are gneiss and schist, banded with quartz-Tuckey's great masses of slate. This is the "Terrapin" of the Nzadi. The eastern fork, about 150 yards broad, is a mountain-torrent, coursing unobstructed down its sandy trough, and, viewed from an eminence, the waters of the mid-channel appear convex, a shallow section of a eylinder,-it is a familiar shape well marked upon the St. Lawrence Rapids. The western half is traversed by a reef, connecting the islets with the right bank. During August, this branch was found almost dry ; in mid-September, it was nearly full, and here the water breaks with the greatest violence. The right bank is subtended for some hundred yards by blocks of granite and greenstone, pitted with large basins and pot-holes, delicately rounded, turned as with a lathe by the turbid waters. The people declare that this greenstone contains copper, and Professor Smith found particles in his specimens. The Portuguese agents, to whom the natives carefully submit everything curious, doubt the fact, as well as all reports of gold ; yet there is no reason why the latter should not be found. The current whirls and winds through its tortuous To "ace p. 120. THE CONGO. EXECUTING SLAVES ON MODE OF Yor. 11, THE YELLEALA GOK TIE CONG G. 121 channels, which are like castings of metal, in many distiact flows; some places are almost stagnant, sug- gesting passages fo. canoes. Here the fishermen have planted their weirs; some are wading in the pools, others are drying their nets upon the stony ledges. During the floods, however, this cheval-de-frise of boulders must all be under water, and probably im- A CONGO CHIEF. passable. Tuckey supposes that the inundation must produce a spectacle which justifies the high-flown de- scription of the people. I should imagine the reverse to be the case; and Dr. Livingstone justly remarked * that, when the river was full, the Yellala rapids would become comparatively smooth, as he had found those of 18: At the memorable Bath meeting of the British Association, Sept. 64. 122 AEHRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. the Zambeze ; and that therefore a voyage pittoresque up the Congo should be made at that season. © Before leaving the Yellala, I wandered along the right bank, and found a cliff, whose overhanging brow formed a fine caverm; it remarkably resembled the Martianez Fountain under the rock near the beautiful Puerto de Orotava. Here the fishermen were disport- ing themselves, and cooking their game, which they willingly exchanged for beads. All were of the Silurus family, varying from a few inches to two feet. Fish- eagles sat upon the ledges overhanging the stream, and a flight of large cranes wheeled majestically in the upper air: according to the people, they are always to be seen at the Yellalas. The extent of a few hundred feet afforded a. good bird's-eye view of the scene. The old river-valley, shown by the searp of the rocks, must have presented gigantic features, and the height of the trough-walls, at least a thousand feet, gives the Yellala a certain beauty and grandeur.. The site is apparently the highest axis of the dividing ridge separating the maritime lowlands from the inner plateau. Looking eastward the land smoothens, the dorsa fall more gently towards the counter-slope, and there are none of the " Morros" which we have traversed. With the members of the Congo Expedition, I was somewhat startled by the contrast between the appa- rently shrunken volume of waters and the vast breadth of the lower river; hence Professor Smith's theory of underground caverns and communications, in fact of a subterraneous river, a favourite hobby in those days. But there is not a trace of limestone formation around, nor is there the hollow echo which inevitably would result from such a tunnel. Evidently the difference is to be accounted for by the rapidity of the torrent, the effect of abnormal slope deceiving the eye. At the Mosi-wa-tunya Falls the gigantic Zambese, from a breadth of a thousand yards suddenly plunges into a trough only forty-five to sixty feet wide; the same is the case with the Brazilian Sao Francisco, which, a mile THH YELLALA OF THE CONGO. 123 wide above the Cachoeira de Paulo Affonso, is choked to a minimum breadth of fifty-one feet. At the Pongo (narrows) de Manseriche also, the Amazonas, " already a noble river, is contracted at its narrowest part to a width of only twenty-five toises, bounded on each margin by lofty perpendicular cliffs, at the end of which the Andes are fairly passed, and the river emerges on CASCADES. the great plain." * Thus the Yellala belongs to the class of obstructed rapids like those of the Nile, compared with the unobstructed, of which a fine specimen is the St. Lawrence. It reminded me strongly of the Busa (Boussa) described by Richard Lander, where the breadth of the Niger is reduced to a stone-throw, and the stream is broken by black rugged rocks arising from mid- channel. It is probably a less marked feature than the * Mr. Richard Spruce, " Ocean Highways," August, 1873, p. 213. 124 APRICA AND IFS EXPLORATION. Congo, for in June, after the " Malka" or fourteen days of incessant rain, the author speaks of whirlpools, not of a regular break. I thus make the distance of the Yellala from the mouth between 116 and 117 miles and the total fall 890 feet, of which about one half (195) occurs in the sixty-four miles between Boma and the Yellala : of this figure again 100 feet belong to the section of five miles between the Vivi and the Great Rapids. The Zambeze, according to Dr. Iavingstone (" First- Expedition," p. 284), has a steeper declivity than some other great rivers, reaching even 7 inches pet mile. With 8 to 4 inches, the Ganges, the Amazonas, and the Mississippi flow at the rate of three knots an hour in the lowest season and five or six during the flood : what, then, may be expected from the Nzadi? : According to the people, beyond the small upper fall where projections shut out the view, the channel smoothens for a short space and carries canoes. - Native travellers from Nkulu usually take the mountain-path cutting across an easterly. bend of the bed to Banza Menzi, the Manzy of Tuckey's text and the Meni Macooloo of his map. - It is situated on a level platform nine miles north of Nkulu, and they find the stream still violent. - The second march is to Banza Ninga, by the First Expedition called " Inga," an indirect line of five hours = 15 miles "The third, of about the same dis- tance, makes Banza Mavunda where, twenty to twenty- four miles above the Yellala, Tuckey found the river once more navigable, clear in the middle and flowing at the rate of two miles an hour-a retardation evidently caused by the rapids beyond : I have remarked this effect in the Brazilian " Cachosiras." * 'Above it the Nzadi widens, and canoeing is practicable with portages at the two Sangallas. - The southern feature, double like the Yellala, shows an upper and a lower break, separated by two miles, the rapids being formed as usual by sunken ledges of rock. Two days' paddling lead to the northern or highest Sangalla, which obstructs the stream for twenty- * " Lowlands of the Brazil," chap. xvii. Finsleys, 1875. THE YELUVALA OF THE CONGO. 125 two miles : Tuckey (p. 184) makes his Songo Sangalla contain three rapids ; Prof. Smith, whose topography is painfully vague, doubles the number, at the same time he makes Sanga Jalala (p. 327) the " uppermost fall but one and the highest." - Finally, at Nsundi (on the map Soondy N'sanga), which was reached on Sept. 9, a W W a CHICKEN SELLER. picturesque sandy cove at the opening of a creek behind a long projecting point, begins a lake-like river, three miles broad, with fine open country on both banks : the explorer describes it as " beautiful scenery equal to any- thing on the banks of the Thames." Here the Nzadi is bounded by low limestone hills already showing the alluvial basin of Central Africa ; 126 A4PRIGCA AND IFS EXPLORATION. and the land is well populated, because calcareous districts are fertile in the tropics and provisions are plentiful. Prof. Smith (p. 836) was "so much enrap- tured with the improved appearance of the country and the magnificence of the river, that it was with the Oreatest difficulty he was p10V¢L110d on to return. '. Of course, the coaster middle-men report the people to be canmbals From the Vivi Rapids to Nsundi along the windings of the bed is a total of 115 miles, about the distance of Vivi to the sea ; the direct land march was seventy-five miles. Captaln Tuckey heard nothing of the Lumini River entering forty-three leagues above the -¥ ellals, and he gives no plofesslonal opinion touching the navi- gability 'of the total of six greater rapids Wthh to judge from what I saw, can ha rdly offer any serious obstl uction to the development of the Nzadi. At Nkulu an intelligent native traveller whom I examined through the interpreters, strongly advised the line of the southern bank ; five stages would lead to Nsund1, and the ten " kings " on 'the road are not such ' rapacious gentlemen " as our present hosts. A glance at Tuckey's map shows that this southern line cuts across a long westellv deflection of the bed. I had been w arned when setting out that a shipful of goods would not take me past Vkulu This was soon confirmed. On the evening after arrival J had directed my interpreter to sound the " bush-kings " touching the expense of a march to Nsundi. They modestly de- manded 100 lbs. of beads, fifty kegs of powder, forty demjijohns of rum, twelve umformb ten burnuses, a few swords, and 200 whole pieces of various expensive cloths, such as Costa Finas, Riscados, and satin stripes-briefly, about £300 for three days' march. It suggested the modest demand made by King Adooley of Badagry, from the brothers Lander. The air of Nkulu was a cordial; the aspect of the land suggested that it is the threshold to a country \111011L111} fertile dnd delicious, in fact, the pdl‘ddlbb which Bishop Berkeley (Gaudentio di Lucca) placed in ThE FELLALIA OF IHE CONGO,. 127 Central Africa. The heat of the lowlands had. cis- appeared—— "*The scorching ray Here piereeth not, impregnate with discase." The thermometer, it is true, did not sink below 67° (F.), whilst the " Expedition " (p. 118) had found it 60° in August, even at Boma during the dewy nights "The lowest temperature of the water was 75°, and the highest 79°, whereas at the mouth it is sometimes 83° Tuckey Owes F6 77°; 74 in the npper_tiver above the Falls, and 73° Whele there are limestone springs. - The oxydl- zation of iron suddenly ceased ; after a single day's drying, the plants were ready for a journey to EnOLmd and meat which will hardly keep one day in the lowlands is here eatable on the fifth. Whilst the important subject of " dash" was being discussed I set out in my hammock to visit a qultandd or market held hard by. As we started, the women sang-- " Lungwa u telemene ko Mwanza a Ko Yellala o kwenda." "'The boat that arrives at the Mwanza (the River) the same shall go up to the Yellala" (rapids). It is part of a chant Whlch the mothers of men now old taught them in childhood, and the sole reminiscence of the Congo Expedition, whose double boats, the Ajojos of the Brazil, struck their rude minds half a century ago. These quitandas are attended by people living a dozen miles off, and they give names to the days, w hich con- sequently everywhere vary. - Thus at Boma Friday, Saturday, Sundax and Honday are lenpectlvely called " Nkeuge: .< Sona, Siaudu. .and. ~.Konso: '- I style of dividing time, which is common throughout Pagan West Afrlca is commonly styled a week : ~ thus the Abbé Proyart tellg us that the Loanoo week consmts of four days, and that on the fourth the, men " rest" by hunting and going to market. Tuckey also recognizes the " week of four days," opposed to "the seven days' week of the Gold Coast. 128 AFRICA AND IIS EXPLORATION. After half an hour's run to the north-west my bearers, raising loud shouts of " Alli! vai sempre!" dashed into the market-place where about a hundred souls were assembled. _ The women rose in terror from their baskets and piles of vendibles ; some began hastily to pack up, others threw themselves into the bush. - Order was soon restored by the interpreter ; both sexes and all ages crowded round me with hootings of wonder, and, when they had stared their fill, allowed me to sit down under a kind of ficus, not unlike the banyan-tree (Ficus Indica). Tuckey (p. 181) says that this fig is planted in all market-places and is considered sacred ; his people got into trouble by piling their muskets against one of them : I heard of nothing of the kind.. The scanty suppliee-a few fowls, sun-dried fish, kola-nuts, beans, and red peppers-were spread upon skins, or stored in well-worked baskets, an art carried to perfection in Africa ; even the Somali Bedawin weave pots that will hold water. The small change was represented by a medium which even Montesquieu would not set down as a certain mark of civilization. - The horse-shoe of Loggun (Denham and Clapperton), the Fin fleam, the " small piece of iron like an ace of spades on the upper Nile" (Baker), and the iron money of the brachycephalic Nyam-nyams described and drawn by Schweinfurth (i. 279), here becomes a triangle or demi-square of bast- cloth, about five inches of max. length, fringed, coloured like a torchon after a month of kitchen use, and worth one-twentieth of the dollar or fathom of cloth. These money-mats or coin-clouts are known to old travellers as Macuitas and Libonges (in Angolan Libangos) - Carli and Merolla make them equivalent to brass money ; the former were grass-cloth a yard long, and ten = 100 reis; in 1694 they were changed at Angola for a small copper coin worth 23G., and the change caused a dis- turbance for which five soldiers were shot. - Silver was represented by " Intagas," thick cottons the size of two large kerchiefs (= 1s. 6d.) and " Folingas," finer sorts used for waist-cloths (= 38. 64.) ; and gold by Beirames (alii Biramis) : Carli says the latter are coarse Indian \ THE YELLALRA OF THE CONGO. 129 cottons five ells long and cach = 200 res; others describe them as fine linen each piece worth 78s. 6d. to 8s. - The bank-note was the " Indian piece or Mulech, a young black about twenty years of age, worth 20 Mil Reys (dollars) each." (Carli.) In the Barbots' day each " coin-clout" was equivalent to 2d. ; some were un- marked, whilst others bore the Portuguese arms single or double. The wilder Kru-men still keep up their " buyapart" (= 25 cents), a cloth four inches square and thickly sewn over with cowries. The only liquor was palm wine in huge calabashes. The smoking of Lyamba (Bhang or Cannabis sativa) seems to become more common as we advance. I did not find the plant growing, as did Dr. Livingstone at Linyanti and amongst the Batoka (" First Expedition," 198, 541). The pipe is the gourd of a baobab, which here sometimes grows a foot and a half long ; it is cleared, filled with water and provided with a wooden tube fixed in the upper part away from the mouth, and supporting a small "chillam " or bowl of badly f baked clay. The people when smok- x Pavors. ing affect the bunched shoulders, the deep inhalation, and the loud and body-shaking bark, which seems inseparable from the enjoyment of thiis stimulant.. I have used it for montlis together, and my conclusion is, that mostly the cough is an affectation. Tobacco is smoked in the usual heavy clay pipes, with long mouthpieces of soft wood, quite as civilized as the best European. " Progress" seems unknown to the pipe; the most advanced nations are somewhat behind the barbarians, and in the matter of snuff the 'Fupt or Brazilian savage has never been rivalled. The greater part of the vendors seemed to be women, of the buyers men ; there was more difference of appear- ance than in any European fair, and the population YOL. AL. K 180 AFRICA AND TTS EXPLORATION, about Nkulu seemed to be a very mixed race. Some were ultra-negro, of the dead dull-black type, prog- nathous and long-headed like apes ; others were of the red variety, with hair and eyes of a brownish tin ge, and a few had features which if whitewashed could hardly be distinguished from Europeans. The tattoo was re- markable as amongst the tribes of the lower Zambeze.* There were waistcoats, epaulettes, braces and cross-belts of huge welts, and raised polished lumps which must have cost not a little suffering ; the skin is pinched up between the fingers and sawn across with a bluntish knife, the deeper the better ; various plants are used as styptics, and the proper size of the cicatrice is main- tamed by constant pressure, which makes the flesh protrude from the wound. The teeth were as bar- barously mutilated as the skin ; these had all the incisors sharp-tipped ; those chipped a chevron-shaped hole in the two upper or lower frontals, and not a few seemed to attempt converting the whole denture into molars. The legs were undeniably fine; even Hieland Mary's would hardly be admired here. Whilst the brown mothers smoked and carried their babies, the men bore guns adorned with brass tacks, or leaned upon their short, straight, conical " spuds" and hoes, long-handled bits of iron whose points, after African fashion, passed through the wood. I nowhere saw the handsome carved spoons, the hafts and knife-sheaths figured by the Congo Expedition. We left the quitanda with the same shouting and rushing which accompanied my appearance. * " Journal of the Royal Geographical Society," vol. iii. p. 206, 1833. LlVINGSTONE BURTON £ SPEKE, SPEKE £ GRANT & YON DER DECKEN._ 1856-1863. 20 30 E I | [wags-tang 1856. _ Burton & Speke, 1867-9.____.. P" Speke & Grant, 188 0-3 _...... Von. der Decken, 18625 __.___ / 20 Hast 50m Q5 urenmwh ie 30 55 f 40 E.Weller. tho London Sampson Low & Co Limited . CHAPEER YIIL Livinaston® ann» Staxury on Laks TANGANIKA, Wrz have already dealt with the life and the great work accomplished by Livingstone, and referred to the bright episode of Stanley's visit to the weary explorer at Ujiji on Lake Tanganika. They spent several happy weeks together, and Livingstone initiated Stanley into the mysteries of exploration by arranging an expedition to the north end of Lake Tanganika, the object of which was to discover if the river Rusizi flowed into or out of the lake, and to settle whether the latter were connected with the Great Nile system. The journey took place at the end of 1871, Had Livingstone and myself, after making up our minds to visit the northern head of the Lake Tanganika, been compelled by the absurd demands or fears of a crew of Wajiji to return to Unyanyembe without having resolved the problem of the Rusizi River, we had surely deserved to be greeted by everybody at home with a universal giggling and cackling. But Capt. Burton's failure to settle it, by engaging Wajiji, and that ridi- culous savage chief Kannena, had warned us of the negative assistance we could expect from such people for the solution of a geographical problem. We had enough good sailors with us, who were entirely under our commands. Could we but procure the loan of a canoe, we thought all might be well. Upon application to Sayd bin Majid, he at once generously permitted us to use his canoe for any service for which we might require it. After engaging two Wajiji guides at two doti each, we prepared to sail from the port of Ujiji, in about a week or so after my entrance into Ujiji. i 2 182 AND ITS EXPLORATION. I have already stated how it was that the Doctor and I undertook the exploration of the northern half of the Tanganika and the River Rusizi, about which so much had been said and written. Before embarking on this enterprise, Dr. Livingstone had not definitely made up his mind which course he should take, as his position was truly deplorable. His servants consisted of Susi, Chumah, Hamoydah, Gardner, and Halimah, the female cook and wife of Hamoydah ; SZ \[" /\ l/ {7 " 4 /// CG / ) vs - Sp Fs ~2 I Fay STANLEY'S GUIDES. to these was added Kaif-Halek, the man whom I com- pelled to follow me from Unyanyembe to deliver the Livingstone letters to his master. ; Whither could Dr. Livingstone march with these few men, and the few table-cloths and beads that remained to him from the store squandered by the imbecile Sherif? - This was a. puzzling question,. . Had Dr. Livingstone been in good health, his usual hardihood and indomitable spirit had answered it in a summary way. He might have borrowed some cloth from Sayd LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA. 1358 bin Majid at an exorbitant price, sufficient to bring him to Unyanyembe and the sea-coast. But how long would he have been compelled to sit down at Ujiji, waiting and waiting for the goods that were said to be at Unyanyembe, a prey to high expectations, hoping day after day that the war would end-hoping week after week to hear that his goods were coming ? Who knows how long his weak health had borne up against Llll \| \alll | I M WOMAN GRINDING CORN. the several disappointments to which he would be sub- jected ? Though it was with all due deference to Dr. Living- stone's vast experience as a traveller, I made bold to suggest the following courses to him, either of which he could adopt : Ist. To go home, and take the rest he so well deserved, and, as he appeared then, to be so much in need of. 2nd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his goods, and enlist pagazis sufficient to enable him to travel anywhere, either to Manyuema or Rua, and settle the 134 APRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. Nile problem, which he said he was in a fair way of doing. 3rd. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, enlist men, and try to join Sir Samuel Baker, either by going to Muanza, and sailing through Ukerewe or Victoria N'Yanza in my boats-which I should put up -to Mtesa's palace at Uganda, thus passing by Miramhbo and Swaruru of Usui, who would rob him if he took the usual caravan road to Uganda ; thence from Mtesa to Kamrasi, King of Unyoro, where he would of course hear of the great white man who was said to be with a large force of men at Gondokoro. 4th. To proceed to Unyanyembe, receive his caravan, enlist men, and return to Ujiji, and back to Manyuema by way of Uguhha. 5th. To proceed by way of the Rusizi through Ruanda, and so on to Itara, Unyoro, and Baker. For either course, whichever he thought most ex- pedient, I and my men would assist him as escort and carriers, to the best of our ability. If he should elect to go home, I informed him I should be proud to escort him, and consider myself subject to his commands- travelling only when he desired, and camping only when he gave the word. 6th. The last course which I suggested to him, was to permit me to escort him to Unyanyembe, where he could receive his own goods, and where I could deliver up to him a large supply of first-class cloth and beads, guns and ammunition, cooking utensils, clothing, boats, tents, &c., and where he could rest in a comfortable house, while I would hurry down to the coast, organise a new expedition composed of fifty or sixty faithful men, well armed, by whom I could send an additional supply of needful luxuries in the shape of creature comforts. After long consideration, he resolved to adopt the last course, as it appeared to him to be the most feasible one, and the best, though he did not hesitate to comment upon the unaccountable apathy of his agent at Zanzibar, which had caused him so much trouble and vexation, and weary marching of hundreds of miles. LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA. 185 Our ship-though nothing more than a cranky canoe hollowed out of a noble mvule tree of Ugoma-was an African Argo, bound on a nobler enterprise than its famous (Grecian prototype. We were bound upon no mercenary errand, after no Golden Fleece, but perhaps to discover a highway for commerce which should bring the ships of the Nile up to Ujiji, Usowa, and far Marungu. We did not know what we might discover on our voyage to the northern head of the Tanganika ; WEAPONS OF WAR. we supposed that we should find the Rusizi to be an effluent of the Tanganika, flowing down to the Albert or the Victoria N'Yanza. We were told by natives and Arabs that the Rusizi ran out of the lake. Nayd bin Majid had stated that his canoe would carry twenty-five men, and 3,500 lbs. of ivory. Acting upon this information, we embarked twenty-five men, several of whom had stored away bags of salt for the purposes of trade with the natives ; but upon pushing off from the shore near Ujiji, we discovered the boat was too heavily 136 4FRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. laden, and was down to the gunwale. Returning in- shore, we disembarked six men, and unloaded the bags of salt, which left us with sixteen rowers, Selim, Ferajji the cook, and the two Wajiji guides. Having thus properly trimmed our boat we again pushed off, and steered her head for Bangwe Island, which was distant four or five miles from the Bunder of Ujiji. - While passing this island the guides informed us that the Arabs and Wajiji took shelter on it during an incursion of the Watuta-which took place some years ago-when they came and invaded Ujiji, and massacred several of the inhabitants. Those who took refuge on the island were the only persons who escaped the fire and sword with which the Watuta had visited Ujiji. After passing the island and following the various bends and indentations of the shore, we came in sight of the magnificent bay of Kigoma, which strikes one at once as being an excellent harbour from the variable winds which blow over the Tanganika. About 10 a.rr. we drew in towards the village of Kigoma, as the east wind was then rising, and threatened to drive us to sea. With these travelling parties who are not in much hurry Kigoma is always the first port for canoes bound north from Ujiji. The next morning at dawn we struck tent, stowed baggage, cooked, and drank coffee, and set off northward again. The lake was quite calm ; its waters, of a dark-green colour, reflected the serene blue sky above. The hippo- potami came up to breathe in alarmingly close proximity to our canoe, and then plunged their heads again, as if they were playing hide-and-seek with us. Arriving opposite the high wooded hills of Bemba, and being a mile from shore, we thought it a good opportunity to sound the depth of the water, whose colour seemed to indicate great depth. We found thirty-five fathoms at this place. Our canoeing of this day was made close in-shore, with a range of hills, beautifully wooded and clothed with green grass, sloping abruptly, almost precipitously, into the depths of the fresh-water sea, towering imme- U } | m m W“ I/’ I wa aft i W 1 h J Mu“ Stil “t f] A [w (le f/ f [I ’ J I ”I W” Yor. 11. A DOSE OF PHYSIC. ”weep. * LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA. 137 diately above us, and as we rounded the several capes or points, roused high expectations of some new wonder, or some exquisite picture being revealed as the deep folds disclosed themselves to us. Nor were we dis- appointed. _ The wooded hills, with a wealth of boscage of beautiful trees, many of which were in bloom, and crowned with floral glory, exhaling an indescribably sweet fragrance, lifting their heads in varied contour- one pyramidal, another a truncated cone ; one table- A VILLAGE GATE, topped, another ridgy, like the steep roof of a church ; one a glorious heave with an even outline, another jagged and savage-interested us considerably; and the: pretty pictures, exquisitely pretty, at the head of the several bays, evoked many an exclamation of ad- miration. It was the most natural thing in the world that I should feel deepest admiration for these succes- sive pictures of quiet scenic beauty, but the Doctor had quite as much to say about them as I had myself, though, as one might imagine, satiated with pictures of 138 APRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. this kind far more beautiful-far more wonderful-he should long ago have expended all his powers of admiring scenes in nature. From Bagamoyo to Ujiji I had seen nothing to com- pare to them-none of these fishing settlements under the shade of a grove of palms and plantains, banians and mimosa, with cassava gardens to the right and left of palmy forests, and patches of luxuriant grain looking down upon a quiet bay, whose calm waters at the earl morn reflected the beauties of the hills which sheltered them from the rough and boisterous tempests that so often blew without. The fishermen evidently think themselves comfortably situated. The lake affords them all the fish they require, more than enough to eat, and the industrious a great deal to sell. 'The steep slopes of the hills, cultivated by the housewives, contribute plenty of grain, such as dourra and Indian corn, besides cassava, ground-nuts or peanuts, and sweet potatoes. The palm trees afford oil, and the plantains an abundance of delicious fruit. The ravines and deep gullies supply them with the tall shapely trees from which they cut out their canoes. Nature has supplied them bountifully with all that a man's heart or stomach can desire. It is while looking at what seems both externally and internally complete and perfect happiness that the thought occurs-how must these people sigh, when driven across the dreary wilderness that intervenes between the lake country and the sea-coast, for such homes as these !-those un- fortunates who, bought by the Arabs for a couple of doti, are taken away to Zanzibar to pick cloves, or do hamal work ! As we drew near Niasanga, our second camp, the com- parison between the noble array of picturesque hills and receding coves, with their pastoral and agricultural scenes, and the shores of old Pontus, was very great. A few minutes before we hauled our canoe ashore, two little incidents occurred. _I shot an enormous dog-faced monkey, which measured from nose to end of tail 4 feet 9 inches ; the face was 84% inches long, its body weighed AND STANLEY ON LAKE PANGANIKA. 189 about 100 lbs. It had no mane or tuft at end of tail, but the body was covered with long wiry hair. Num- bers of these specimens were seen, as well as of the active cat-headed and long-tailed smaller ones. The other was the sight of a large lizard, about 2 ft. 6 in. long, which waddled into cover before we had well noticed it.: The, Doctor thought it to be the Monitor terrestris. We encamped under a banian tree ; our surroundings ii A ‘\\ 3 GIGANTIC SYCAMORE, AND CAMP BENEATH IT. were the now light-grey waters of the Tanganika, an amphitheatral range of hills, and the village of Niasanga, situated at the mouth of the rivulet N lasanga, with its grove of palms, thicket of plantains, and plots of grain and cassava fields. Near our tent were about half-a- «dozen canoes, large and small, belonging to the villagers. Unr tent door fronted the glorious expanse of fresh water, inviting the breeze, and the views of distant Ugoma and Ukaramba, and the Island of Muzimu, whose ridges appeared of a deep-blue colour. At our feet were 140 AFRICA AND IITS EXPLORATION, the clean and well-washed pebbles, borne upward into tiny lines and heaps by the restless surf. A search amongst these would reveal to us the material of the mountain heaps which rose behind and on our right and left; there was schist, conglomerate sandstone, a hard white clay, an ochreish clay containing much iron, polished quartz, &e. - Looking out of our tent, we could see a line on each side of us of thick tall reeds, which form something like a hedge between the beach and the cultivated area around Niasanga. Among birds seen here, the most noted were the merry wagtails, which are regarded as good omens and messengers of peace by the natives, and any harm done unto them is quickly resented, and is fineable. Except to the mischievously inclined, they offer no inducement to commit violence. On landing, they flew to meet us, balancing themselves in the air in front, within easy reach of our hands. The other birds were crows, turtle-doves, fish-hawks, kingfishers, ibis nigra and ibis religiosa, flocks of whydah birds, geése, darters, paddy birds, kites, and eagles. At this place the Doctor suffered from dysentery-it is his only weak point, he says; and, as I afterwards found, it is a frequent complaint with him. - Whatever disturbed his mind, or any irregularity in eating, was sure to end in an attack of dysentery, which had lately become of a chronic character. The third day of our journey on the Tanganika brought us to Zassi River and village, after a four hours' pull. . Along the line of road the mountains rose 2,000 and 2,500 feet above the waters of the lake. I imagined the scenery getting more picturesque and animated at every step, and thought it by far lovelier than anything seen near Lake George or on the Hudson. The cosy nooks at the head of the many small bays constitute most admirable pictures, filled in as they are with the ever-beautiful feathery palms and broad green plantain fronds. - These nooks have all been taken possession of by fishermen, and their conically bechive-shaped huts always peep from under the frondage. The shores are LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA. 141 thus extremely populous ; every terrace, small plateau, and bit of level ground is occupied. Zassi is easily known by a group of conical hills which rise near by, and are called Kirassa. Opposite to these, at the distance of about a mile from shore, we sounded, and obtained 35 fathoms, as on the previous day. Getting out a mile further, I let go the whole length of my line, 1+5 fathoms, and obtained no bottom. In drawing it up again the line parted, and I lost the lead, with three-fourths of the line. . 'The Doctor stated, apropos of this, that he had sounded opposite the lofty Kabogo, south of Ujiji, and obtained the great depth of 300 fathoms. He also lost his lead and 100 fathoms of his line, but he had nearly 900 fathoms left, and this was in the canoes. We hope to use this long sounding line in going across from the eastern to the western shore. On the fourth day we arrived at Nyabigma, a sandy island in Urundi. We had passed the boundary line between Ujiji and Urundi half an hour before arriving at Nyabigma. The Mshala River is considered by both nations to be the proper divisional line ; though there are parties of Warundi who have emigrated beyond the frontier into Ujiji : for instance, the Mutware and villagers of populous Kagunga, distant an hour north from Zassi. There are also several small parties of Wajiji, who have taken advantage of the fine lands in the deltas of the Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Luaba Rivers, the two first of which enter (the Tanganika in this bay, near the head of which Nyabigma is situated. From Nyabigma, a pretty good view of the deep curve in the great mountain range which stretches from Cape Kazinga and terminates at Cape Kasofu, may be obtained -a distance of twenty or twenty-five miles. It is a most imposing scene, this great humpy, ridgy, and irregular line of mountains. Deep ravines and chasms afford outlets to the numerous streams and rivers which take their rise in the background; the pale fleecy ether almost always shrouds its summit. From its base ex- 142 AFRICA AND IIS EXPLORATION. tends a broad alluvial plain, rich beyond description, teeming with palms and plantains, and umbrageous trees. Villages are seen in clusters everywhere. Into this alluvial plain run the Luaba, or Ruaba River, on the north side of Cape Kitunda, and the Kasokwe, Namusinga, and Mshala Rivers, on the south side of the cape. All the deltas of rivers emptying into the Tan- ganika are hedged in on all sides with a thick growth of matete, a gigantic species of grass, and papyrus. In xgf 4m UJIJI COW, UNYAMWEZI COW, PARIAH DOG, AND FAT-TAILED SHEEP. some deltas, as that of Luaba and Kasokwe, morasses have been formed, in which the matete and papyrus jungle is 1mpenetrable In the depths of them are quiet and deep pools, frequented by various aquatic birds, such as geese, ducks, snipes, widgeons, king- fishers and ibis, cranes and storks, and pelicans. To reach their haunts is, however, a work of great diffi- culty to the sportsman in quest of game ; a work often attended with great danger, from the treacherous nature of these morasses, as well as from the dreadful attacks LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA. 148 of fever which, in these regions, invariably follow wet feet and wet clothes. At N abign a we prepared, by distributing ten rounds of ammunition to each of our men, for a tussle with the Warundi of two stages ahead, should they invite it by a too forward exhibition of their prejudice to strangers. At dawn of the fifth day we quitted the haven of Nyabigma Island, and in less than an hour had arrived off Cape Kitunda. This cape is a low platform of con- glomerate sandstone, extending for about eight miles from the base of the great mountain curve which gives birth to the Luaba and its sister streams. - Crossing the deep bay, at the head of which is the delta of the Luaba, we came to Cape Kasofu. Villages are numerous in this vicinity. - From hence we obtained a view of a series of points or capes, Kigongo, Katunga, and Buguluka, all of which we passed before coming to a halt at the pretty position of Mukungu. f At Mukungu, where we stopped on the fifth day, we were asked for honga, or tribute. The cloth and beads upon which we subsisted during our lake voyage were mine, but the Doctor, being the elder of the two, more experienced, and the " big man " of the party, had the charge of satisfying all such demands. Many and many a time had I gone through the tedious and soul-wearying task of settling the honga, and I was quite curious to see how the great traveller would perform the work. The Mateko (a man inferior to a Mutware) of Mukungu asked for two and a half doti. This was the extent of the demand, which he made known to us a little after dark. . The Doctor asked if nothing had been brought to us. He was answered, " No, it was too late to get anything now ; but, if we paid the honga, the Mateko would be ready to give us something when we came back." - Livingstone, upon hearing this, smiled, and the Mateko being then and there in front of him, he said to him.=" Well, if you can't get us anything now, and intend to give something when we return, we had better keep the honga until then." The Mateko was rather taken aback at this, and demurred to any such proposi- 144 AFRICA HAND ITS EXPLORATION. tion. - Seeing that he was dissatisfied, we urged him to bring one sheep-one little sheep-for our stomachs were nearly empty, having been waiting more than half a day for it. The appeal was successful, for the old man hastened, and brought us a lamb and a three- gallon pot of sweet but strong zogga, or palm toddy, and in return the Doctor gave him two and a half doti of cloth.. The lamb was killed, and, our digestions being good, its flesh agreed with us ; but, alas, for the effects of zogga, or palm toddy ! Susi, the invaluable adjunct of Dr. Livingstone, and Bombay, the headman of my caravan, were the two charged with watching the 'anoe ; but, having imbibed too freely of this intoxi- cating toddy, they slept heavily, and in the morning the Doctor and I had to regret the loss of. several valuable and indispensable things ; among which may be men- tioned the Doctor's 900-fathom sounding-line, 500 rounds of pin, rim, and central-fire cartridges for my arms, and ninety musket bullets, also belonging to me. - Besides these, which were indispensable in hostile Warundi, a large bag of flour and the Doctor's entire stock of white sugar were stolen. - This was the third time that my reliance in Bombay's trustworthiness resulted in a great loss to me, and for the ninety-ninth time I had to re- cret bitterly having placed such entire confidence in Speke's loud commendation of him. It was only the natural cowardice of ignorant thieves that prevented the savages from taking the boat and its entire contents, together with Bombay and Susi as slaves. I can well imagine the joyful surprise which must have been called forth at the sight and exquisite taste of the Doctor's sugar, and the wonder with which they must have regarded the strange ammunition of the Wasungu. - It is to be sincerely hoped that they did not hurt them- selves with the explosive bullets and rim cartridges through any ignorance of the nature of the deadly con- tents : in which case the box and its contents would prove a very Pandora's casket. Much grieved at our loss, we set off on the sixth day at the usual hour on our watery journey. - We coasted h \ \\ ~ \ p. 144. To face MR. STANLEY'S INTERPRETER. Vou, II. LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY GON LAKE TANGANIKA, 145 close to the several low headlands formed by the rivers Kigwena, Kikuma, and Kisunwe; and when any bay promised to be interesting, steered the canoe according to its indentations. While travelling on the water- each day brought forth similar scenes-on our right rose the mountains of Urundi, now and then disclosing the ravines through which the several rivers and streams issued into the great lake; at their base were the alluvial plains, where flourished the oil-palm and grate- AN IDOL. ful plantain, while scores of villages were grouped under their shade. Now and then we passed long narrow strips of pebbly or sandy beach, whereon markets were improvised for selling fish, and the staple products of the respective communities Then we passed broad swampy morasses, formed by the numerous streams which the mountains discharged, where the matete and papyrus flourished. Now the mountains approached to the water, their sides descending abruptly to the water's edge; then they receded into deep folds, at the base of which was sure to be seen an alluvial plain from one to yop. if. L 146 AFRICA AND IFS EXPLORATION. eight miles broad. - Almost constantly we observed canoes being punted vigorously close to the- surf, in fearless defiance of a catastrophe, such as a capsize and gobbling-up by voracious crocodiles. _ Sometimes we sighted a canoe a short distance ahead of us ; whereupon our men, with song and chorus, would exert themselves to the utmost to overtake it. Upon observing our efforts, the natives would bend themselves to their tasks, and paddling standing and stark naked, give us ample opportunities for studying at our leisure comparative anatomy. (Or we saw a group of fishermen lazily re- clining in puris naturalibus on the beach, regarding with curious eye the canoes as they passed their neighbour- hood ; then we passed a flotilla of canoes, their owners sitting quietly in their huts, busily plying the rod and hook, or casting their nets, or a couple of men arranging their long drag nets close in shore for a haul ; or children sporting fearlessly in the water, with their mothers looking on approvingly from under the shade of a tree, from which I infer that there are not many crocodiles in the lake, except in the neighbourhood of the large rivers. After passing the low headland of Kisunwe, formed by the Kisunwe River, we came in view of Murembwe Cape, distant about four or five miles ; the intervening ground being low land, a sandy and pebbly beach. Close to the beach are scores of villages, while the crowded shore indicates the populousness of the place beyond. About half way between Cape Kisunwe and Murembwe, is a cluster of villages called Bikari, which has a Mutware who is in the habit of taking honga. As we were rendered unable to cope for any length of time with any mischievously inclined community, all villages having a bad reputation with the Wajiji were avoided by us. But even the Wajiji guides were sometimes mistaken, and led us more than once into dangerous places. The guides evidently had no objections to halt at Bikari, as it was the second camp from Mukungu; because with them a halt in the cool shade of plantains was infinitely preferable to sitting like carved pieces of LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA. 147 wood in a cranky canoe. But before they stated their objections and preferences, the Bikari people called to us in a loud voice to come ashore, threatening us with the vengeance of the great Wami if we did not halt. As the voices were anything but siren-like, we ob- stinately refused to accede to the request. - Finding DAGGERS AND SPEAR HEADS. : threats of no avail, they had recourse to stones, and, accordingly, flung them at us in a most hearty manner. As one came within a foot of my arm, I suggested that a bullet be sent in return in close proximity to their feet; but Livingstone, though he said nothing, yet showed plainly enough that he did not quite approve of this. As these demonstrations of hostility were any- thing but welcome, and as we saw signs of it almost By 2 148 APRIGCA AND IVS EXPLORATION. every time we came opposite a village, we kept on our way until we came to Murembwe Point, which, being a delta of a river of the same name, was well protected by a breadth of thorny jungle, spiky cane, and a thick growth of reed and papyrus, from which the boldest Mrundi might well shrink, especially if he called to mind that beyond this inhospitable swamp were the guns of the strangers his like had so rudely challenged. We drew our canoe ashore here, and, on a limited area of clean sand, Ferajji, our rough-and-ready cook, lit his fire, and manufactured for us a supply of most delicious Mocha coffee. Despite the dangers which still beset us, we were quite happy, and seasoned our meal with a little moral philosophy, which lifted us unconsciously into infinitely superior beings to the pagans by whom we were surrounded-upon whom we now looked down, under the influence of Mocha coffee and moral philo- sophy, with calm contempt, and unmixed with a certain amount of compassion. - The Doctor related some expe- riences he had had among people of similar disposition, but did not fail to ascribe them, with the wisdom of a man of ripe experiences, to the unwise conduct of the Arabs and half-castes; in this opinion I unreservedly concur. From Murembwe Point, having finished our coffee and ended our discourse on ethics, we proceeded on our voyage, steering for Cape Sentakeyi, which, though it was eight or ten miles away, we hoped to make before dark. The Wangwana pulled with right good will, but ten hours went by, and night was drawing near, and we were still far from Sentakeyi. - As it was a fine moon- light night, and we were fully alive to the dangerous position in which we might find ourselves, they con- sented to pull an hour or two more. About I p.m., wo pulled in shore for a deserted spot-a clean shelf of sand, about thirty feet long by ten deep, from which a clay bank rose about ten or twelve feet above, while on each side there were masses of disintegrated rock. Here we thought, that by preserving some degree of silence, we might escape observation, and consequent annoyance, LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA. 149 for a few hours, when, being rested, we might continue our journey. Our kettle was boiling for tea, and the men had built a little fire for themselves, and had filled their black earthen pot with water for porridge, when our look-outs perceived dark forms creeping towards our bivouac. - Being hailed, they at once came forward, and saluted us with the native " Wake." Our guides ex- plained that we were Wangwana, and intended to camp until morning, when, if they had anything to sell, we GROUP OF NATIVES. should be glad to trade with them. They said they were rejoiced to hear this, and after they had exchanged a few words more-during which time we observed that they were taking mental notes of the camp-they went away. Upon leaving, they promised to return in the morning with food, and make friends with us. While drinking our tea, the look-outs warned us of the ap- proach of a second party, which went through the same process of saluting and observing as the first had done. These also went away, over-exuberant, as I thought, 150 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION, and were shortly succeeded by a third party, who came and went as the others had. From all this we inferred that the news was spreading rapidly through the vil- lages about, and we had noticed two canoes passing backwards and forwards with rather more haste than we deemed usual or necessary. We had good cause to be suspicious ; it is not customary for people (at least, between Ujiji and Zanzibar) to be about visiting and saluting after dark, under any pretence ; it is not per- mitted to persons to prowl about camp after dark with- out being shot at ; and this going backward and forward, this ostentatious exuberance of joy at the arrival of a small party of Wangwana, which in many parts of Urundi would be regarded as a very common event, was altogether very suspicious. While the Doctor and I were arriving at the conclusion that these movements were preliminary to or significant of hostility, a fourth body, very boisterous and loud, came and visited us. Our supper had been by this time despatched, and we thought it high time to act. The fourth party having gone with extravagant manifestations of delight, the men were hurried into the canoe, and, when all were seated, and the look-outs embarked, we quietly pushed off, but not a moment too soon. As the canoe was gliding from the darkened light that surrounded us, I called the Doctor's attention to several dark forms ; some of whom were crouching behind the rocks on our right, and others scrambling over them to obtain good or better positions; at the same time people were approaching from the left of our position, in the same suspicious way ; and directly a voice hailed us from the top of the clay bank overhanging the sandy shelf where we had lately been resting. " Neatly done," cried the Doctor, as we were shooting through the water, leaving the discomfited would-be robbers behind us. - Here, again, my hand was stayed from planting a couple of good shots, as a warning to them in future from molest- ing strangers, by the mere presence of the Doctor, who, as I thought, if it were actually necessary, would not hesitate to give the word. LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA. 151 After pulling six hours more, during which we had rounded Cape Sentakeyi, we stopped at the small fishing village of Mugeyo, where we were permitted to sleep unmolested. At dawn we continued our journey, and about 8 a.M. arrived at the village of the friendly Mut- ware of Magala. We had pulled for eighteen hours at a stretch, which, at the rate of two miles and a half per hour, would make forty-five miles. Taking bearings from our camp at Cape Magala, one of the most promi- BIRD's EYE VIEW OF A TEMBE. nent points in travelling north from Ujiji, we found that the large island of Muzimu, which had been in sight ever since rounding Cape Bangwe, near Ujiji Bunder, bore about south-south-west, and that the western shore had considerably approached to the eastern ; the breadth of the lake being at this point about eight or ten miles. We had a good view of the western highlands, which seemed to be of an average height, about 3,000 feet above the lake. - Luhanga Peak, rising a little to the north of west from Magala, might be about 500 feet higher ; and 152 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. Samburizi, a little north of Luhanga, where lived Mruta, Sultan of Uvira, the country opposite to this part of Urundi, about 300 feet higher than the neighbouring heights. Northward from Magala Cape the lake streamed away between two chains of mountains ; both meeting in a point about thirty miles north of us. The Warundi of Magala were very civil, and profound starers. They flocked around the tent door, and most pertinaciously gazed on us, as if we were subjects of most intense interest, but liable to sudden and eternal depar- ture. The Mutware came to see us late in the after- noon, dressed with great pomp. He turned out to be a boy whom I had noticed in the crowd of gazers for his good looks and fine teeth, which he showed, being addicted to laughing continually. There was no mis- taking him, though he was now decorated with many ivory ornaments, with necklaces, and with heavy brass bracelets and iron wire anklets. - Our admiration of him was reciprocated ; and, in return for our two doti of cloth and a fundo of samsam, he gave a fine fat and broad-tailed sheep, and a pot of milk. In our condition both were extremely acceptable. At Magala we heard of a war raging between Mukamba, for whose country we were bound, and Warumashanya, a Sultan of an adjoining district; and we were advised that, unless we intended to assist one of these chiefs against the other, it would be better for us to return. But, as we had started to solve the problem of the Rusizi River, such considerations had no weight with us. Un the eighth morning from leaving Ujiji we bade farewell to the hospitable people of Magala, and set off for Mukamba's country, which was in view. Soon after passing the boundary between Urundi proper, and what is known as Usige, a storm from the south-west arose ; and the fearful yawing of our canoe into the wave trough warned us from proceeding further; so we turned her head for Kisuka village, about four miles north, where Mugere, in Usige, begins. At Kisuka a Magwana living with Mukamba came to I wl m a ~ Te <4) smg =- W 2 = TMZ _ aS l \ 7 f e ~ ( a o I Vor. II. OUR LEVEE AT MAGALA, URUNDL To ase p. 15%. LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA 158 see us, and gave us details of the war between Mukamba and Warumashanya, from which it seemed that these two chiefs were continually at loggerheads. It is a tame way of fighting, after all. One chief makes a raid into the other's country, and succeeds in making off with a herd of cattle, killing one or two men who have been surprised. Weeks, or perhaps months elapse before the other retaliates, and effects a capture in a similar way, and then a balance is struck in which, neither is the gainer. Seldom do they attack each other with courage and hearty good-will, the constitution of the African being decidedly against any such energetic war- fare. This Mgwana, further, upon being questioned, gave us information far more interesting, viz., about the Rusizi He told us positively, with the air of a man who knew all about it, and as if anybody who doubted him might well be set down as an egregious ass, that the Rusizi River flowed out of the lake, away to Suna's (Mtesa's) country. " Where else could it flow to ?" he asked. The Doctor was inclined to believe it, or, per- haps he was more inclined to let it rest as stated until our own eyes should confirm it. I was more inclined to doubt, as I told the Doctor ; first, it was too good to be true; second, the fellow was too enthusiastic upon a subject that could not possibly interest him. - His * Barikallahs " and " Inshallahs" were far too fervid s his answers too much in accordance with our wishes. The Doctor laid great stress on the report of a Mowana he met far south, who stated that the grandfather or father of Rumanika, present King of Karagwah, had thought of excavating the bed of the Kitangule River, in order that his canoes might go to Ujiji to open a trade. From this, I imagine, coinciding as it did with his often-expressed and present firm belief that the waters of the Tanganika had an outlet somewhere, the Doctor was partial to the report of the Mgwana ; but as we proceed we shall see how all this will end. (On the ninth morning from Ujiji, about two hours after sunrise, we passed the broad delta of the Mugere, 154 d4rRICA AND IVS EXPLORATION. a river which gives its name also to the district on the eastern shore ruled over by Mukamba. We had come directly opposite the most southern of its three mouths, when we found quite a difference in the colour of the water. An almost straight line, drawn east and west from the mouth, would serve well to mark off the dif- ference that existed between the waters. - On the south _ side was pure water of a light green, on the north side it was muddy, and the current could be distinctly seen flowing north. Soon after passing the first mouth we came to a second, and then a third mouth, each only a few yards broad, but each discharging sufficient water to permit our following the line of the currents several rods north beyond the respective mouths. Beyond the third mouth of the Mugere a bend dis- closed itself, with groups of villages beyond on its bank. 'Fhese were Mukambas, and in one of them lived Mukamba, the chief. The natives had yet never seen a white man, and, of course, as soon as we landed we were surrounded by a large concourse, all armed with long spears-the only weapon visible amongst them save a club-stick, and here and there a hatchet. We were shown into a hut, which the Doctor and I shared between us. What followed on that day I have but a dim recollection, having been struck down by fever -the first since leaving Unyanyembe. I dimly recol- lect trying to make out what age Mukamba might be, and noting that he was good-looking withal, and kindly- disposed towards us. And during the intervals of agony and unconsciousness, I saw, or fancied I saw, Living- stone's form moving towards me, and felt, or fancied I felt, Livingstone's hand tenderly feeling my hot head and limbs. I had suffered several fevers between Baga- moyo and Unyanyembe, without anything or anybody to relieve me of the tedious racking headache and pain, or to illumine the dark and gloomy prospect which must necessarily surround the bedside of the sick and solitary traveller. But though this fever, having enjoyed im- munity from it for three months, was more severe than usual, I did not much regret its occurrence, since 1 LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY GN LAKE TANGANIKA. 155 became the recipient of the very tender and fatherly kindness of the good man whose companion I now found myself. The next morning, having recovered slightly from the fever, when Mukamba came with a present of an ox, a sheep, and a goat, I was able to attend to the answers which he gave to the questions about the Rusizi River and the head of the lake. The ever cheerful and enthu- siastic Magwana was there also, and he was not a whit YOUTHFUL WARRIORS. abashed, when, through him, the chief told us that the Rusizi, joined by the Ruanda, or Luanda, at a distance of two days' journey by water, or one day by land from the head of the lake, flowed INTO the lake. Thus our hopes, excited somewhat by the positive and repeated assurances that the river flowed out away towards Karagwah, collapsed as speedily as they were raised. We paid Mukamba the honga, consisting of nine doti and nine fundo of samsam, lunghio, muzurio n zige. 156 ARRICA AND IVs EXPLORATION. The printed handkerchiefs, which I had in abundance at Unyanyembe, would have gone well here. After re- ceiving his present, the chief introduced his son, a tall youth of eighteen or thereabouts, to the Doctor, as a would-be son of the Doctor ; but, with a good-natured laugh, the Doctor scouted all such relationship with him, as it was instituted only for the purpose of drawing more cloth out of him. - Mukamba took it in good part, and did not insist on getting more. Our second evening at Mukamba's, Susi, the Doctor's servant, got gloriously drunk, through the chief's liberal and profuse gifts of porabe. Just at dawn next morning I was awakened by hearing several sharp, crack-like gounds. I1 listened, and I found the noise was in our hut. It was caused by the Doctor, who, towards mid- night, had felt some one come and lie down by his side on the same bed, and, thinking it was me, he had kindly made room, and laid down on the edge of the bed. But in the morning, feeling rather cold, 'he had been thoroughly awakened, and, on rising on his elbow to see who his bed-fellow was, he discovered, to his great astonishment, that it was no other than his black ser- vant, Susi, who taking possession of his blankets, and folding them about himself most selfishly, was occupying almost the whole bed. The Doctor, with that gentle- ness characteristic of him, instead of taking a rod, had contented himself with slapping Susi on the back, saying, *Get up, Bust, will you ? You are in my bed. How dare you, sir, get drunk in this way, after I have told you so often not to. (Get up. ¥ou won't. Take that, and that, and that." Still Susi slept and grunted ; so the slapping continued, until even Susi's thick hide began to feel it, and he was thoroughly awakened to the sense of his want of devotion and sympathy for his master in the usurping of even his master's bed. Susi looked very much crestfallen after this exposé of his infirmity before the " little master,. as I was called. The next day at dusk-Mukamba having come to bid us good-bye, and requested that as soun as we reached LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA. 157 his brother Ruhinga, whose country was at the head of the lake, we would send our canoe back for him, and that in the meanwhile we should leave two of our men with him, with their guns, to help defend him in case “7a1umashan§a should attack him as soon as we were gone-we embarked and pulled across. In nine hours we had arrived at the head of the lake in Mugihewa, the country of Ruhinga, Mukamba's elder brother. - In looking back to where we had come from we perceived TGOGO MAN AND WOMAN. that we had made a diagonal cut across from south-east to north-west, instead of having made a direct east and west course; or, in other words, from Mugere- which was at least ten miles from the northernmost point of the eastern shore-we had come to Mugihewa, situated at the northernmost point of the western shore. Had we continued along the eastern shore, and so round the northern side of the lake, we should have passed by Mukanigi, the country of Warumashanya, and Usumbura of Simveh, his ally and friend. But by 158 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. making a diagonal course, as just described, we had arrived at the extreme head of the lake without any difficulty. The country in which we now found ourselves, Mugi- hewa, is situated in the delta of the Rusizi River. It is an extremely flat country, the highest part of which is not ten feet above the lake, with numerous depressions in it overgrown with the rankest of matete-grass and the tallest of papyrus, and pond-like hollows, filled with stagnant water, which emit malaria wholesale. Large herds of cattle are reared on it ; for where the ground is not covered with marshy plants it produces rich, sweet grass. The sheep and goats, especially the former, are always in good condition ; and though they are not to be compared with English or American sheep, they are the finest I have seen in Africa. Numerous villages are seen on this land because the intervening spaces are not occupied with the rank and luxuriant jungle common in other parts of Africa. Were it not for the Euphorbia kolquall of Abyssinia-which some chief has caused to be planted as a defence round the villages-one might see from one end of Mugihewa to the other. The waters along the head of the lake, from the western to the eastern shores, swarm with crocodiles. From the banks, I counted ten heads of crocodiles, and the Rusizi, we were told, was full of them. Ruhinga, who came to see us soon after we had taken up our quarters in his village, was a most amiable man, who always contrived to see something that excited his visibility ; though older by five or six years perhaps-he said he was a hundred years old -than Mukamba, he was not half so dignified, nor regarded with so much admiration by his people as his younger brother. Ruhinga had a better knowledge, however, of the country than Mukamba, and an admirable memory, and was able to impart his knowledge of the country intelligently. After he had done the honours as chief to us-presented us with an ox and a sheep, milk and honey-we were not backward in endeavouring to elicit as much infor- mation as possible out of him. LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA. . 159 The summary of the information derived from Ruhinga may be stated as follows :- The country bordering the head of the lake from Urundi proper, on the eastern shore, to Uvira on the western, is divided into the following districts: 1st. Mugere, governed by Mukamba, through which issued into the lake the small rivers of Mugere and Mpanda. 2nd. Mukanigi, governed by Warumashanya, which A LAKE VILLAGE. occupied the whole of the north-eastern head of the lake, through which issued into the lake the small rivers of Karindwa and Mugera wa Kanigi. 3rd. On the eastern halt of the district, at the head of the. lake, was Usumbura, governed by Simveh, ally and friend of Warumashanya, extending to the eastern bank of the Rusizi. 4th. Commencing from the western bank of the Rusizi, to the extreme north-western head of the lake, was Mugihewa-Ruhinga's country. 5th. From Uvira on the west, running north past Mugihewa, and 160 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATIQN. overlapping it on the north side as far as the hills of Chamati, was Ruwenga, also a country governed by Mukamba. Beyond Ruwenga, from the hills of Chamati to the Ruanda River, was the country of Chamati. West of Ruwenga, comprising all the mountains for two days' journey in that direction, was Uashi. These are the smaller sub-divisions of what is commonly known as Ruwenga and Usige. Ruwenga comprises the countries of Ruwenga and Mugihewa; Usige, the countries of Usumbura, Mukanigi, and Mugere But all these countries are only part and parcel of Urundi, which comprises all that country bordering the lake from Mshala River, on the eastern shore, to Uvira, on the western, extending over ten days' journey direct north from the head of the lake, and one month in a north- eastern direction to Murukuko, the capital of Mwezi, Sultan of all Urundi . Direct north of Urundi. is Ruanda ; also a very large country. The Rusizi River-according to Ruhinga-rose near a lake called Kivo, which he said is as long as from Mugi- hawa to Mugere, and as broad as from Mugihawa to Warumashanya's country, or, say eighteen miles in length by about eight in breadth. The lake is sur- rounded by mountains on the western and northern sides : on the south-western side of one of these moun- tains issues the Rusizi-at first a small rapid stream ; but as it proceeds towards the lake it receives the rivers Kagunissi, Kaburan, Mohira, Nyamagana, Nyakagunda, Ruviro, Rofubu, Kavimvira, Myove, Ruhuha, Mukindu, Sange, Rubirizi, Kiriba, and, lastly, the Ruanda River, which seems to be the largest of them all. Kivo Lake is so called from the country in which it is situated. On one side is Mutumbi (probably the Utumbi of Speke and Baker), on the west is Ruanda; on the east is Urundi. The name of the chief of Kivo is Kwansibura. After so many minute details about the River Rusizi, it only remained for us to see it. On the second morn- ing of our arrival at Mugihewa we mustered ten strong paddlers, and set out to explore the head of the lake and the mouth of the Rusizi We found that the To face p. 160. ELEPHANT. i. STANLEY'S ENCOUNTER WITH AN MBR Vor, IL. PHIVIN@STONE AND STANLEY ON LARE TANGANIEKA. I1GL northern head: of the lake was indented with seven broad bays, each from one and a half to three miles broad ; that long broad spits of sand, overgrown with matete, separated each bay from the other. The first, starting from west to east, at the broadest part, to the extreme southern point of Mugihewa, was about three miles broad, and served as a line of demarcation between Mukamba's district of Ruwenga and Mugihewa of Ruhinga ; it was also two miles deep. The second bay was a mile from the southern extremity of Mugihewa to Ruhinga's village at the head of the bay, and it was a mile across to another spit of sand which was terminated by a small island. The third bay stretched for nearly a mile to a long spit, at the end of which was another island, one and a quarter mile in length, and was the western side of the fourth bay, at the head of which was the delta of the Rusizi. - This fourth bay, at its base, was about three miles in depth, and penetrated half a mile further inland than any other. Soundings indicated six feet deep, and the same depth was kept to within a few hundred yards of the principal mouth of the Rusizi. The current was very sluggish ; not more than a mile an hour. Though we constantly kept our binocular searching for the river, we could not see the main channel until within 200 yards of it, and then only by watching by what outlet the fishing canoes came out. 'The bay at this point had narrowed from two miles to about 200 yards in breadth. Inviting a canoe to show us the way, a small flotilla of canoes pre- ceded us, from the sheer curiosity of their owners. We followed, and in a few minutes were ascending the stream, which was very rapid, though but about ten yards wide ; and very shallow, not more than two feet deep. We ascended about half a mile, the current being very strong, from six to eight miles an hour, and quite far enough to observe the nature of the stream at its embouchure. We could see that it widened and spread out in a myriad of channels, rushing by isolated clumps of sedge and matete grass; and that it had the appear- ance of a swamp. We had ascended the central, or yOL. 11. M 162 APRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION, main channel. The western channel was about eight yards broad. We observed, after we had returned to the bay, that the easternmost channel was about six yards broad, and about ten feet deep, but very sluggish. We had thus examined each of its three mouths, and settled all doubts as to the Rusizi being an effluent or 7 y P { 4 “NZ; J/fiéct’fp 2 I <=. 2x Ps Pro roa a at BRIDGING A STREAM. influent. It was not necessary to ascend higher, there being nothing about the river itself to repay exploration of it. § The question, "Was the Rusizi an effluent or an in- fluent?" was answered for ever. There was now no doubt any more on that point. In size it was not to be compared with the Malagarazi River, neither is 16, or LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA. 168 can it be, navigable for anything but the smallest canoes. - The only thing remarkable about it is that it abounds in crocodiles, but not one hippopotamus was seen; which may be taken as another evidence of its shallowness. - The bays to the east of the Rusizi are of the same conformation as those on the west. Carefully judging from the width of the several bays from point to point, and of the several spits which separate them, the breadth of the lake may be said to be about twelve or fourteen miles Had we contented ourselves with simply looking at the conformation, and the meeting of the eastern and western ranges, we should have said that the lake ended in a point, as Captain Speke had sketched it on his map. But its exploration dissolved that idea. Chamati Hill is the extreme northern ter- mination of the western range, and seems, upon a super- ficial examination, to abut against the Ramata moun- tains of the eastern range, which are opposite Chamati ; but a valley about a mile in breadth separates the two ranges, and through this valley the Rusizi flows towards the lake.* Though Chamati terminates the western range, the eastern range continues for miles beyond, north-westerly. - After its issue from this broad gorge, the Rusizi runs seemingly in a broad and mighty stream, through a wide alluvial plain, its own formation, in a hundred channels, until, approaching the lake, it flows into it by three channels only, as above described. I should not omit to state here, that though the Doctor and I have had to contend against the strong current of the Rusizi River, as it flowed swift and strong ixto the Tanganika, the Doctor still adheres to tho conviction that, whatever part the Rusizi plays, there must be an outlet to the Tanganika somewhere, from the fact that all fresh-water lakes have outlets. The Doctor is able to state his opinions and reasons far better than I can find for him ; and, lest I misconstrue * After the patient investigation of the North end of the Lake, and satisfying ourselves by personal observation that the Rusizi ran into the Lake, the native rumour which Sir Samuel Baker brought home that the Tanganika and the Albert N'Yanza have a water connection still finds many believers! M 2 164 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. the subject, I shall leave it until he has an opportunity to explain them himself; which his great knowledge of Africa will enable him to do with advantage. One thing is evident to me, and I. believe to the Doctor, that Sir Samuel Baker will have to curtail the Albert N'Yanza by one, if not two degrees of latitude. That well-known traveller has drawn his lake far into the territory of the Warundi, while Ruanda has been placed on the eastern side ; whereas a large portion of it, if not all, should be placed north of what he has designated on his map as Usige. The information of such an intelligent man as Ruhinga is not to be de- spised ; for, if Lake Albert came within a hundred miles of the Tanganika, he would surely have heard of its existence, even if he had not seen it himself. Originally he came from Mutumbi, and he has travelled from that country into Mugihewa, the district he now governs. He has seen Mwezi, the great King of Urundi, and describes him as a man about forty years old, and as : very good man. Our work was now done; there was nothing more to detain us at Mugihewa. - Ruhinga had been exceedingly kind, and given us one OX after another to butcher and eat. - Mukamba had done the same. Their women had supplied us with an abundance of milk and butter, and we had now bounteous supplies of both. The Doctor had taken a series of observations for latitude and longitude ; and Mugihewa was made out to be in 3° 19' 8. latitude. On the 7th December, early in the morning, we left Mugihewa, and rowing past the southern extremity of the Katangara Islands, we approached the highlands of Uashi, near the boundary line between Mukamba's country and Uvira. - The boundary line is supposed to be a wide ravine, in the depths of which is a grove of tall, beautiful, and straigcht-stemmed trees, out of which the natives make their canoes. Passing Kanyamabengu River, which issues into the lake close to the market-ground of Kirabula, the extreme point of Burton and Speke's explorations of the Tan- LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA. 165 canika, we steered south along the western shore of the lake for half an hour longer to Kavimba, where 'we halted to cook breakfast. The village where lived Mata, the King of Uvira, was in sight of our encampment, and as we observed parties of men ascending and descending the mountains much more often than we thought augured good to our- selves, we determined to continue on our course south. Besides, there was a party of disconsolate-looking Wajiji LION IN THE GRASS. here, who had been plundered only a few days before our arrival, for attempting, as the Wavira believed, to evade the honga payment. Such facts as these, and our knowledge of the general state of insecurity in the country, resulting from the many wars in which the districts of the Tanganika were engaged, determined us not to halt at Kavimba. We embarked quickly in our boat before the Wavira had collected themselves, and headed south against a 166 AFRICA AND ITY EXPLORATION. strong gale, which came driving down on us from the south-west. After a hard pull of about two hours in the teeth of the storm, which was rapidly rising, we pointed the head of the boat into a little quiet cove, almost hidden in tall reeds, and disembarked for the night. Cognizant of the dangers which surrounded us, knowing that savage and implacable man was the worst enemy we had to fear, we employed our utmost energies in the construction of a stout fence of thorn bushes, and then sat down to supper after our work was done, and turned in to sleep ; but not before we had posted watch- men to guard our canoe, lest the daring thieves of Uvira might abstract it, in which case we should have been in a pretty plight, and in most unenviable distress. At daybreak, leaving Kukumba Point after our humble breakfast of coffee, cheese, and dourra cakes was despatched, we steered south onee more. - Our fires had attracted the notice of the sharp-eyed and suspicious fishermen of Kukumba; but our precautions and the vigilant watch we had set before retiring, had proved an effectual safeguard against the Kivira thieves. The western shores of the lake as we proceeded were loftier, and more bold than the wooded heights of Urundi and bearded knolls of Ujiji A back ridge- the vanguard of the mountains which rise beyond- disclosed itself between the serrated tops of the front line of mountains, which rose to a height of from 2,500 to 3,000 feet above the lake. Within the folds of the front line of mountains rise isolated hills of considerable magnitude, precipitous and abrupt, but scenically very picturesque. - The greater part of these hills have the rounded and smooth top, or are tabularly summited. The ridge enfolding these hills shoots out, at intervals, pronlontoriul projections of gradual sloping outlines, which on the map I have designated capes, or points. When rounding these points, up went our compasses for the taking of bearings, and observing the directions of all prominent objects of interest. Often these capes are formed by the alluvial plains, through which we may be sure a river will be found flowing. These pretty AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGAXNIKA. 167 alluvial plains, enfolded on the south, the west, and the north by a grand mountain are, present most luxurious and enchanting scenery. The vegetation seems to be of spontaneous growth. Groups of the Elseis Guineansis palm embowering some dun-brown village ; an array of majestic, superb growth of mvule trees ; a broad extent covered with vivid green sorghum stalks ; parachute- like tops of mimosa; a line of white sand, on which native canoes are drawn far above the reach of the plangent, uneasy surf; fishermen idly reclining in the shade of a tree;-these are the scenes which reveal themselves to us as we voyage in our canoe on the Tan- ganika. - When wearied with the romance of wild tropic scenes such as these, we have but to lift our eyes to the great mountain tops looming darkly and grandly on our right ; to watch the light pencilling of the cirrus, brush- ing their summits, as it is drifted toward the north by the rising wind : to watch the changing forms which the clouds assume, from the fleecy horizontal bars of the cirrus, to the denser, gloomier cumulus, prognosticator of storm and rain, which soon settles into a portentous group-Alps above Alps, one above another-and we know the storm which was brewing is at hand, and that it is time to seek shelter. Passing Muikamba, we saw several groves of the tall myule tree. As far as Bemba the Wabembe occupy the mountain summits, while the Wavira cultivate the alluvial plains along the base and lower slopes of the mountain. At Bemba we halted to take in pieces of pipe-clay, in accordance with the superstition of the Wajiji, who thought us certain of safe passage and good fortune if we complied with the ancient custom. Passing Ngovi, we came to a deep bend, which curved off to Cape Kabogi at the distance of ten miles. About two-thirds of the way we arrived at a group of islets, three in number, all very steep and rocky ; the largest about 300 feet in length at the base, and about 200 feet in breadth. Here we made preparations to halt for the night. The inhabitants of the island were a gorgeously- feathered old cock, which was kept as a propitiatory 168 AFRICA AND IFS EXPLORATION. offering to the spirit of the island, a sickly yellow-looking thrush, a hammer-headed stork, and two fish-hawks, who, finding we had taken possession of what had been religiously reserved for them, took flight to the most western island, where from their perches they continued to eye us most solemnly. As these islands were with difficulty pronounced by us as Kavunvweh, the Doctor, seeing that they were the only objects we were likely to discover, named them the "* New York Herald" Islets ;" and, in confirmation of the new designation given them, shook hands with me upon it. - Careful dead-reckoning settled them to be in lat. 3s" 41° B. The summit of the largest island was well adapted to take bearings, and we improved the opportunity, as most extensive views of the broad and lengthy lake and surrounding lines of imposing mountains were attain- able. The Ramata Hills were clearly visible, and bore N.N.E. from it: Katanga Cape, 8.E. by 8. ; Sentakeyi, E.8.E. ;. Magala, E. by N.; south-western point of Muzimu bore 8., northern point of Muzimu island, At dawn on the 9th December we prepared to resume onr voyage. (Ones or twice in the night we had been visited by fishermen, but our anxious watchfulness pre- vented any marauding. It seemed to me, however, that the people of the opposite shore, who were our visitors, were eagerly watching an opportunity to pounce upon our canoe, or take us bodily for a prey ; and our men were considerably affected by these thoughts, if we may judge from the hearty good-will with which they rowed away from our late encampment. Arriving at Cape Kabogi, we came to the territory of the Wasansi. - We knew we were abreast of a different tribe by the greeting "Moholo," which a group of fishermen gave us ; as that of the Wavira was " Wake," like that of Urundi, Usige, and Uhha. We soon sighted Cape Luvumba-a sloping projection of a mountain ridge which shot far into the lake. As a storm was brewing, we steered for a snug little cove that Yop. H. ON LAKE TANGANIKA-HOMEWARD BOUND. Tc ace p. 168. LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA. 169 appeared before a village ; and, drawing our canoe from the water, began to set the tent, and make other pre- parations for passing the night. As the natives appeared quiet and civil enough, we saw no reason to suspect that they entertained any hos- tility to Arabs and Wangwana. Accordingly we had our breakfast cooked, and as usual laid down for an after- noon nap. I soon fell asleep, and was dreaming away FISHES OF THE TANGANIKA. in my tent, in happy oblivion of the strife and conten- tion that had arisen since I had gone to sleep, when I heard a voice hailing we with, " Master, master ! get up. quick. - Here is a fight going to begin !" ~I sprang up,. and snatching my revolver belt from the gun-stand, walked outside. Surely, there appeared to be consider- able animus between the several factions ; between a noisy, vindictive-looking set of natives of the one part, 170 ALGRICA AND TIS EXPLORATION, and our people of the other part. Seven or eight of our people had taken refuge behind the canoe, and had their loaded guns half pointing at the passionate mob, which was momentarily increasing in numbers, but I could not see the Doctor anywhere. ""* Where is the Doctor ¢" I asked. " He has gone over that hill, sir, with his compass," said Selim. " Anybody with him ?" " Sust and Chumah." " You, Bombay, send two men off to warn the Doctor, and tell him to hurry up here." But just at this period the Doctor and his two men appeared on the brow of the hill, looking down in a most complacent manner upon the serio-comic scene that the little basin wherein we were encamped pre- sented. For, indeed, despite the serious aspect of it, there was much that was comical blended with it-in. a naked young man who-perfectly drunk, barely able to stand on his feet-was beating the ground with his only loin-cloth, screaming and storming away like a madman ; declaring by this, and by that, in his own choice language, that no Mgwana or Arab should halt one moment on the sacred soil of Usansi. His father, the Sultan, was as inebriated as himself, though not quite so violent in his behaviour. In the meantime the Doctor arrived upon the scene, and Selim had slipped my Winchester rifle, with the magazine full of cartridges, into my hand. The Doctor calmly asked what was the matter, and was answered by the Wajiji guides that the people wished us to leave, as they were on hostile terms with the Arabs, because the eldest son of the Sultan of Muzimu, the large island nearly opposite, had been beaten to death by a Baluch, named Khamis, at Ujiji, because the young fellow had dared look into his harem, and ever since peace had been broken between the Wasansi and Arabs. After consulting with the guides, the Doctor and I came to the conclusion that it were better that we should endeavour to pacify the Sultan by a present, rather than SCHWEINFURTH, BAKER, LIYINGSTONE, STANLEY & CAMERON _ 1866-75 MC fas w £: £ 1 , i wy geons Victoria | $% Nyanz a. }" \. ap &. ~L 42- | /___ 4p W, A __| _/~\\; f R | Tp WKflunmgm‘ "hais, -t | | $ sim- W __ 3s ' in wom Well ont u Q f F ~~] ¥ ig we £. & & ‘ g $ é, f e r i aan mea manip I Ai reais f 774 f = fms: rerio F I i Schawenfuarth . T&B 7! f - - Baker, 1870-2 ant cede minn Faites 4 é ¢ fre- {- A4, 1866-7, ammemimustcs ¥ A | | ave 1871. i . J j f fllflb’r‘fln 1873-5 | é } | | f | Fi LLL _ -L-... -t <--- n ugo oom -~ --- & rom .4 i F 38, Tern Fe fe ths nina nian dats LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY GN LAKZ TANGANIKLA. 171 take offence at a drunken boy's extravagant freak. In his insane fury he had attempted to slash at one of my men with a billhook he carried. This had been taken as a declaration of hostilities, and the soldiers were ready enough to engage in war ; but there was no necessity to commence fighting with a drunken mob, who could have been cleared off the ground with our revolvers alone had we desired it. The Doctor, baring his arm, said to them that he was not a Mgwana, or an Arab ; but a white man ; that Arabs and Wangwana had no such colour as we had. We were FISHES OF THE TANGANIEA. white men, different people altogether from those whom they were accustomed to see; that no black men had ever suffered injury from white men. This seemed to produce great effect, for after a little gentle persuasion the drunken youth, and his no less inebriate sire, were induced to sit down to talk quietly. In their conversa- tion with us, they frequently referred to Mombo, the son of Kisesa, Sultan of Muzimu, who was brutally murdered. " Yes, brutally murdered !" they exclaimed several times, in their own tongue ; illustrating, by a faithful pantomime, how the unfortunate youth had died. 172 1CRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. Livingstone continued talking with them in a mild, paternal way, and their loud protestations against Arab cruelty were about to subside, when the old Sultan suddenly rose up and began to pace about in an excited manner, and in one of his perambulations deliberately slashed his leg with the sharp blade of his spear, and then exclaimed that the Wangwana had wounded him ! At this cry one half of the mob hastily took to flight, but one old woman, who carried a strong staff with a carved lizard's body on its top, commenced to abuse the chief with all the power of her voluble tongue, charging him with a desire to have them all killed, and other women joined in with her in advising him to be quiet, and accept the present we were willing to give. But it is evident that there was little needed to cause all men present in that little hollow to begin a most sanguinary strife. The gentle, patient bearing of the Doctor had more effect than anything else in making all forbear bloodshed, while there was left the least chance of an amicable settlement, and in the end it prevailed. The Sultan and his son were both sent on their way rejoicing. While the Doctor conversed with them, and endea- voured to calm their fierce passions, I had the tent struck, and the canoes launched, and the baggage stowed, and when the negotiations had concluded amicably, I begged the Doctor to jump into the boat, as this apparent peace was simply a lull before a storm ; besides, said I, there are two or three cowardly creatures in the boat, who, in case of another disturbance, would not scruple to leave both of us here. From Cape Luvumba, about 4.30 we commenced pulling across ; at 8 P.M. we were abreast of Cape Panza, the northern extremity of the island of Muzimu ; at 6 aM. we were southward of Bikari, and pulling for Mukungu, in Urundi, at which place we arrived at 10 a.m., having been seventeen hours and a half in crossing the lake, which, computing at two miles an hour, may be said to be thirty-five miles direct breadth, LIVINGRTONE AND STANLEY ON LAKE TANGANIKA. 173 and a little more than forty-three miles from Cape Luvumba. On the 11th of December, after seven hours' pulling, we arrived at picturesque Zassi again; on the 12th, at the pretty cove of Niasanga; and at 11 A.M. we had rounded past Bangwe, and Ujiji was before us. We entered the port very quietly, without the usual firing of guns, as we were short of powder and ball. As we landed, our soldiers and the Arab magnates came to the water's edge to greet us. Mabruki had a rich budget to relate to us, of what had occurred during our absence. This faithful man, left behind in charge of Livingstone's house, had done most excellently. - Kalulu had sealded himself, and had a frightful raw sore on his chest in consequence. Mabruki had locked up Marora in chains for wounding one of the asses. Bilali, the stuttering coward, a bully of women, had caused a tumult in the market-place, and had been sharply belaboured with the stick by Mabruki. And, above all most welcome, was a letter I received from the American Consul at Zanzibar, dated June 11th, containing telegrams from Paris as late as April 22nd of the same year ! Poor Livingstone exclaimed, " And I have none. What a pleasant thing it is to have a real and good friend !" Our voyage on the Tanganika had lasted twenty-eight days, during which time we had traversed over 300 miles of water. 174 . AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. FROM ZANZIBAR TO BAGAMOYO. CHAPTER IX,. Rouxp Larr VicrorIta NYANZA. Wr now come to some of the principal episodes in one of the greatest expeditions that ever entered Africa. We have already seen Stanley exploring Lake Tanganiks in company with Livingstone. Stanley first entered Africa simply as a " special correspondent," commis- sioned by the New York Herald to find Livingstone. He had not, however, been long in the company of the great explorer before he was inspired with enthusiasm for the opening up of the " Dark Continent," and after his return from the Ashanti War he persuaded the Proprietors of the Daily Telegraph and the New York Herald to send him on a 'great exploring expedition across the Continent. The expedition lasted three years, 1874 to 1877, and during its course Stanley ROUND LAKE VICTORIA NYANZH. 175 solved some of the most important of the remaining problems in African geography ; among them was the greatest of all, the course of the mysterious river Congo. The expedition, consisting of Mr. Stanley, the two brothers Pocock, and a young man named Barker, with a small army of natives, left Bagamoyo in November, 1874. It travelled westwards and northwards, until it reached the south shore of the Victoria Nyanza, or Fake Victoria, in the end of Hebruary, 1879; the country in which they found themselves when they reached the lake was Kagehyi. 'The extent and shape of the great lake discovered by Speke fifteen years before, was very imperfectly known ; and one of Mr. Stanley's great tasks was to circumnavigate its waters and lay down its correct contour on the map. Mis account of. the voyage, full of. interest, is as follows :- We all woke up on the momning of the 28th of February with a feeling of intense relief. There were. no more marches, no more bugle summons to rouse us up for another fatiguing day, no more fear of hunger- at least for a season. We Europeans did not rise from bed until 8 a.m., and we then found the Wangwana and Wanyamwezi still extended at their full lengths on their mats and goat-skins, and peacefully reposing after their fatigues ; and had I not finally sallied out into the open air at this hour, I believe that Bungoro and Kaduma, who, by the bye, were inseparable friends, would, from motives of delicacy, have relrained from paying a morning call, supposing that I should need many hours of rest. At 9 a.M. a burzan, or leves, was held. Kirst came Frank and Fred-now quite recovered from fever- to bid me good morning, and to congratulate them- selves and me upon the prospective rest before us. Next came the Wangwana and Wanyamwezi chiefs, to express a hope that I had slept well, and after them the bold youths of the Expedition ; then came Prince Kaduma and Sungoro, to whom we were bound this 176 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION, day to render an account of the journey and to give the latest news from Zanzibar ; and, lastly, the princess and her principal friends-for introductions have to be undergone in this land as in others. 'The burzah lasted two hours, after which my visitors retired to pursue their respective avocations, which I discovered to be principally confined, on the part of the natives, to gossiping, making or repairing fishing-nets, hatchets, THE EXPEDITION. canoes, food-troughs, village fences, and huts; and on the part of our people to arranging plans for building their own grass-huts, being perfectly content to endure a long stay at Kagehyi. f Though the people had only their own small domestic affairs to engage their attentions, and Frank and Fred were for this day relieved from duty, I had much to do-observations to take to ascertain the position of You. IH. VIEW OF BAGAMOYO. 5.3%. :‘T0fiftgep- 176. ROUND LAKE VICTORIA N FANZA. LTZ Kagehyi, and its altitude above the sea ; to prepare paper, pens, and ink for the morrow's report to the journals which had despatched me to this remote and secluded part of the globe : to make calculations of the time likely to be occupied in a halt at Kagehyi, in preparing and equipping the Lady Alice for sea, and in cireumnavigating the groat " Nianja," . as the Wasukuma call the lake. It was also incumbent upon me to ascertain the political condition of the country before leaving the port and the camp, that my mind might be at rest about its safety during my contem- plated absence. - Estimates were also fo be entered upon as to the quantity of cloth and beads likely to be required for the provisioning of the expeditionary force during my absence, and as to the amount of tribute and presents to be bestowed upon the King of Uchambi-of which Kagehyi was only a small district, and to whom Prince Kaduma was only a subordinate and tributary. In brief, my own personal work was but begun, and pages would not suffice to describe in detail the full extent of the new duties now devolving upon me. During the afternoon the Wasukuma recruits were summoned to receive farewell gifts, and nearly all were discharged. Then thirteen doti of cloth were measured for the King of Uchambi, and ten doti for Prince Kaduma; and beads were also given in proportion- the expectations of these two magnates and their favourite wives being thus satisfactorily realised. These grave affairs were not to be disposed of as mere trivialities, and occupied me many hours of our second day's life at Kagehyi - Meanwhile the Wangwana and '{anyamwezi required me to show my appreciation of their fidelity to me during the march, and chiefs and men received accordingly substantial tokens thereof. Besides new cloths to wear, and beads to purchase luxuries, I was expected to furnish them with meat for a banquet; and in accordance with their just wishes, six bullocks were purchased and slaughtered for their benefit. In addition to which, as a banquet voL It. N 178 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION, would be rather tame without wine for cheer, twenty gallons of pombé-beer in a state of natural fermen- tation-were distributed. To satisfy all which demands and expectations, three full bales of cloth and 120 lbs. of beads were disbursed. On the evening of the second day, I was rewarded for my liberality when I saw the general contentment, and heard on all sides expressions of esteem and renewed loyalty. # Nor were Frank and Fred forgotten, for I gave permission for them to issue for themselves, each day while in camp, four yards of cloth, or two fundo of beads, to be expended as they thought fit, over and above ration money. Small as this may seem, it was really equal to a gift of 4s. per day pocket-money. Though they lived on similar food to that cooked for myself, I observed that they chose to indulge in many things which I could not digest, or for which I had no appetite, such as ground-nuts, ripe bananas, plantains, and parched green corn. Fred Barker was remarkably partial to these things. This extra pocket-money also served to purchase a larger quantity of milk, eggs, chickens, and rice from the Wasukuma and Sungora. My daily fare at this time consisted principally of chickens, sweet potatoes, milk, tea and coffee. Pocock and Barker varied this diet with rice, with which Sungoro furnished them, and bread made of Indian corn and millet. The village of Kagehyi, in the Uchambi district and country of Usukuma, became after our arrival a place of great local importance.. It attracted an unusual number of native traders from all sides within a radius of twenty or thirty miles. Fishermen from Ukerewé, whose purple hills we saw across the arm of the lake, came in their canoes, with stores of dried fish; those of Igusa, Rima, and Magu, east of, us in Usakuma, brought their cassava, or manioc, and ripe bananas ; the herdsmen of Usmau, thirty miles south of Kagehyi, sent their oxen; and the tribes of Muanza-f; famous historically as being the point whence Speke first saw ROUND BAKE VICTORIA NFTANZA. 179 this broad gulf of Lake Victoria brought their hoes, iron wire, and salt, besides great plenty of sweet- potatoes and yams. Reports of us were carried far along the paths of trade to the countries contiguous to the highways of traffic, because we were in a land which had been, from time immemorial, a land of gossip and primitive commerce; and a small band of peaceful natives, accustomed to travel, might explore hundreds of square miles in Usukuma without molestation. But though KAGEHYT. Unyanyembé, and through it Zanzibar, might receive within a few months reliable information about our movements, there were countries in the immediate neighbourhood of Kagehyi whither traders never venture, which were for ever cut off from the interesting intel- ligence that there were three white men on the shores of the lake, who were said to be most amiable and sociable. Uji. far away on Lake Tanganika, might be set to wondering whether they had come from Masr (Cairo) or from Zanzibar, but W irigedi, close at hand x 2 180 14FRICA AND ITs EXPLORATION: here; on Speke Gulf, might pstill be -in profound ignorance of the arrival. - Mtesa of Uganda might prick up his cars at the gratifying intelligence, and hope they would soon visit him, while Ukara, though only about twenty-five geographical miles from Kagehyi, might be exeluded for ever from discussing the strange topic. The natives of Karagwé and their gentle king might be greatly exercised in their minds with the agreeable news, and wonder whether they, in their turn, should ever see the white men, and yet Komeh, 300 miles nearer to us, might only hear of the wonder- ful event years after our departure! Thus it is that information is only conveyed along the lines of traffic, and does not filter into those countries which are ostracised from common interests and events by the reputed ferocity of their inhabitants and their jealous hostility to strangers, even though they may actually border upon the localities where those interests and events are freely discussed. Prince Kaduma, truth compels me to state, is a true Central African "toper"-a naturally amiable man, whose natural amiability might be increased to enormous proportions, provided that it was stimulated by endless supplies of pombé. From perpetual indulgence in his favourite vice, he has already attained to that blear- eyed, thick-tongued, husky-voiced state from which only months of total abstinence can redeem a man. In his sober moments-1I cannot say hours-which were soon after he rose in the morning, he pretended to manifest an interest in his cattle-yard, and to be deeply alive to the importance of doing something in the way of business whenever opportunities offered. - In fact, he would sometimes go so far as to say to his half-dozen elders that he had something in view even then-" but we must have a shauri first," - Becoming exceedingly interested, the elders would invite him to speak, and instantly assume that wise, thoughtful, grave aspect which you sometimes see in members of Parliament, Congress, Reichstag, &e. alts aout, Kaduma would say, "does a man work when he is ROUND LAKE YIGIORIA NYANZA. 181 hungry ? Can he talk when he is thirsty ? "Ihe elders slily exchange winks and nods of approval, at which Kaduma bursts into a hoarse chuckle-never a laugh-for Kaduma is remarkable for possessing the conceit of humour. Others may laugh at his dry sayings, but he himself never laughs : he chuckles. FRANK POCOCK. The great jar of froth-topped pombé* is then brought up by a naked youth of fourteen or fifteen years, who is exceedingly careful to plant the egg-bottomed jar firmly on the ground lest it should topple over. Beside it is conveniently placed Kaduma's favourite drinking- * Native beer, made from fermented grain or coarse flour. 182 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. cup, as large as a quart measure, and cut out of a symmetrically shaped gourd. Kaduma is now seated on a favourite low stool, and folds his greasy Sohari cloth about him, while the elders are seated on either side of him on wood chips, or axe handles, or rocks. The foaming jar is ready, and the dusky Ganymede attentive. - Kaduma stretches out his hand languidly- it is all affectation, for Kaduma is really thirsty-and Ganymede, with both hands, presents the cup kneeling. The pombé being broached, the valves of the " shauri " are opened. During the hour devoted to the consump- tion of the pombé, Kaduma may be said to be rational, and even interested in business. Withal he is gay, light-hearted, and pleasant in conversation; grand projects are hinted at; trading expeditions even as far as Ujiji suggested ; a trip to Unyanyembé and Zanzibar appears to be in serious contemplation with him. But, alas! the pombé is ended. Kaduma goes to sleep. At three o'clock he expands again into a creature of intelligence. 'I'wo or three pots are exhausted between 3 and 6 p.m., and finally Kaduma reels to his cot like the inebriated sot he really is. - Alas! for the virtues of a naturally intelligent nature drowned by such intemperance ! Alas! for the fine attributes of manhood conquered by vile indulgences! Alas! for the brains muddled by such impurities ! It will be apparent, then, that, though the Prince of Kagehyi is a well-meaning and well-disposed creature, he possessed an infirmity that rendered him incapable of rendering me that service which he had himself suggested to me. He promised that he would accompany me in my exploration of Lake Victoria! It is to be doubted, after acquiring such a knowledge of his character, whether his intentions could be fulfilled. Yet he informed me that he had visited Ukerewé, Ururi, and Ugeyeya, and would, for a consideration, place himself at my disposal. The consideration was ready, but Kaduma, unfortunately for me, I saw, could not be ready within a decade! Hopes of his assistance and influence were therefore relinquished ; and, since rOUND LAKE YICTORTIA NYANZA. | 183 the chief was not available, it became evident that none of his people could be obtained for the service of exploration. - Without this insight into Kaduma's life and manners, it would have been a matter for fair speculation whether his weakness and intemperance, or his dread of the vast lake, were the real causes of his reluctance to accompany me. The prince was learned in the names of several countries or villages-but which they were, I was then ignorant. - But if every name he repeated to my interested ears were the names of real countries, then, I began to think, it might be true, as he himself believed, that the lake was so large that its exploration would occupy years. Nearly all the Wangwana, while THE " LADY ALICE" IN SECTIONS. the Lady Alice was being prepared for sea, were impressed with the vastness of the enterprise, as Prince Kaduma, his people, Sungoro, and his slaves-who had really only reached Ururi-sketched it to them with their superstitious and crude notions of its size. There were, they said, a people dwelling on its shores who were gifted with tails; another who trained enormous and fierce dogs for war; another a tribe of cannibals, who preferred human flesh to all other kinds of meat. The lake was so large it would take years to trace its shores, and who then at the end of that time would remain alive? Therefore, as I expected, there were no volunteers for the exploration of the Great Lake. Its opposite shores, from their very vagueness of outline, and its people, from the distorting fogs of misrepresen- 184 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. tation through which we saw them, only heightened the fears of my men as to the dander which filled the prospect. Within seven days the boat was re ady, and strength- ened for a rough sea life. Provisions of flour and dried fish, bales of cloth and beads of various kinds, odds and ends of small possible necessaries were boxed, and she was declared, at last, to be only waiting for her crew.. " Would any one 'volunteer to accompany me ?t" A dead silence ensued. " Not for rewards and extra pay ?" - Another dead silence: no one would volunteer. '* Yet. must," said 1, " depart. - Will. you let me go alone ?" "No. " What then ? - Show me my braves-those men who freely enlist to follow their master round the sea." All were again dumb. Appealed to individually, each said. he knew nothing of sea life; each man frankly declared himself a terrible coward on water. "Then. what am I to do ?" Manwa Sera said :- "* Master, have done with these questions. Command your party. All your people are your children, and they will not disobey you. While you ask them as a friend, no one will offer his services. Command them, and they will all go." So I selected a chief, Wadi Safeni-the son of Safeni and told him to pick out the elect of the young men. Wadi Nafeni chose men who knew nothing of boat life. Then I called Kachéché, the detective, and told him to ascertain the names of those young men who were accustomed to sea life, upon which Kachéché informed me that the young Ollldeb first selected by me at Bagamoyo were the sailors of the E\pedlt1011 After reflecting upon the capacities of the younger men, as they had developed themselves on the road, I made a list of ten sailors and a steersman, to whose fidelity [ was willing to entrust myself and fortunes while coasting round the Victorian Sea. Yor. IL. |= Mi "tC _. [.. & | y NYC" 1, ' fils ns. \ Cronk stie Uf iro WINE“ VIEW OF ZANZIBAR FROM THE SEA. To face p. 184. ROUND LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA. 185 Accordingly, after drawing up instructions for Frank Pocock and Fred Barker on about a score of matters concerning the wellbeing of the Expedition during my absence, and enlisting for them, by an adequate gift, the goodwill of Sungoro and Prince Kaduma, I set sail on the 8th of March, 1875, eastward along the shores of the broad arm of the lake which we first sighted, VII BC. LW | It | Ul COXxXSWAIN ULEDI, AND MANWA SERA, CHIEF CAPTAIN. and which henceforward is known, in honour of its first discoverer, as " Speke Gulf." Afloat on the waters of Speke Gulf! The sky is gloomy and the light grey water has become a dull ashen grey ; the rocks are bare and rugged ; and the land, sympathising with the gloom above, appears silent and lonely. The people sigh dolorously, their rowing is as that of men who think they are bound to certain death, and now and again wistful looks are thrown 186 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. towards me as though they expected an order to return. Their hearts are full of misgivings. - Slowly, however, we move through the dull dead waters ; slowly we pass by the dull" grey rocks of Lutari Pomt and still slower do the boatmen row when the rugged rocks shut off the view of Kagehyi and front them with their bare rude masses. Five miles brought us to Igusa, a settlement doubtless pleasant enough under a fair sky, but bearing this afternoon its bhare of the universal gloom. W 1thout a guide or interpreter, we bore in for a little reed-lined (leek A fisherman, with a head of hair resembling a thick mop, came down to the boat. He had. it seems, visited Kagehyi two or three days before, and recognised us. A better acquaintance was soon bewun, and ended in. lis becoming captwated with our promises of rewards and Oflelan his services as guide. The boat- men. were over: oyed for the guide, ; whose name was Saramba, proved to have been one of bunooro s boatmen in some of that Arab's trading excursions to Ururi. We passed a cheerless night, for the reeds turned out to be the haunt of a multitude of mosquitoes, and the air was cold. However, with Saramba as guide, we promised ourselves better quarters in future. At 6 an., after Saramba's appearance, we resumed our voyage, and continued on our way eastward, clinging to the shores of Rima. At 11 A.M. the clouds, wlucll had long been gathering over the horizon to tho north-west, (llbblldloed both squall and gale, and the scene soon became wild beyond descnptlon. We steered from the shore, and were soon involved in the dreadful chaos of watery madness and uproar. The wind swept us over the fierce waves, the Lady Alice bounding forward like a wild courser. It lashed the waters into spray and foam, and hurled them over the devoted crew and boat. With a mere rag presented to the gale, we drove unresistingly along. Strange islets in the neighbourhood of Mashakka became then objects of terror to us, but we passed them in safety and saw the grey hills of Magu far in front of us. The boatmen ROUND LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA. 187 cowered to windward : Saramba had collapsed in terror, and had resignedly covered his moppy head with his loin-cloth. - Zaidi Moandd the steersman, and myself were the only persons vmble above the Ounwfle, and our united strengths were required to guide the boat over the raging sea. At 2 p.m. we came in view of the Shimeeyu river, and, steering close to the little igland of Natwari, swept round to leewmd, and through a calm water made our way into harbour, oppo- site the entrance to the river. The next day was beautiful. 'The wild waters of yesterday were calm as those of a pond. The bold hills of Magu, with all their sere 'and treeless outlines, stood out in fine relief. Oppo- site them, at about 1300 yards distant, were the brush-covered tops of the Mazanza heights ; while between them lay glit- tering the- broad and noble ereek which re- ceives the tribute flood of the Bhimeeyu, the extreme southern reach of Nile waters. The total length of the course of this river, as laid out on the chart, is ‘300 miles, which gives the course of the Nile a le 110th of 4200 miles : thus making it the second longest river in the world. The creek extends to a considerable distance, and then contracts to a width of about 400 yards, thwuoh which the Monangah, after uniting with the Lmnnnbeln and the Duma rivers, dlschcufres its brown waters, under the name of the Shlmee} @, 111to the lake. WIFE OF MANWA SERA. 188 AFRICA AND ITS. EXPLORATION. After an examination of these features, we continued our journey along the coast of Mazanza, which forms the eastern shore of the bay of Shimeeyu, passing by the boldly rising and wooded hills of Manassa. At 4 P.M. we attempted to land in a small cove, but were driven away by a multitude of audacious hippopotami, who rushed towards us open-mouthed. - Perceiving that they were too numerous and bold for us, we were compelled to drop our stone anchors in forty feet of water, about two miles from shore. On the 11th of March, after rowing nearly the whole day against a head-wind, we arrived at the eastern end of Speke Gulf, which here narrows to about seven miles. On the southern side Manassa extends from Mazanza, its coast-line marked by an almost unbroken ridge about two miles inland, varied here and there by rounded knolls and hills, from whose base there is a gradual slope covered with woods down to the water's edge., Fhe eastern end of the=gulf is closed- by the land of the Wirigedi or, as Saramba called them, the Wajika. At the north-eastern end begins Shahshi, consisting of a group of sterile hills; which, as we proceed west along the north side of the gulf, sink down into a naked plain. The Ruana river empties itself into the head of the gulf by two narrow mouths through a low wooded shore. On the 12th we continued to coast along Shahshi's low, bare plain, matgined at the water's edge by eschinomens, and a little farther inland lined by mimosa, thence past Iramba, a similar country to Shahshi, until -we reached Pyramid Point, so christened from the shape of its hills, but on running up into the bay (which has its greatest width at Rugedzi Strait), we found that Pyramid Point really forms the south- western end of a mountain-range. One of the most conspicuous objects we saw, as we stood on the uplands of -Usman, looking towards the N.N.E., was this Pyramid Point, but at that time we had, of course, only a dim idea of its neighbourhood to the lake. Near the Point is a group of small islands, the ~R RQUND LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA. 189 principal being Kitaro, on which cattle and goats are found. - Though the islanders obtain but a scanty sub- sistence from the soil, they find reason to congratulate themselves in that they are safe from the periodical raids made by the Wajika, or Wirigedi, a tribe un- pleasantly distinguished for the length of their knives and the breadth and weight of their spears. On one of this group, which was uninhabited, we stayed to cook our mid-day meal. It appeared fair and pleasant enough from without-one mass of deepest verdure, with a cone rising about 100 feet above the lake. Upon exploring it, we found it to be a heap of gigantic rocks, between which the deposit of vegetable matter SAMA-ULOA, FISH FOUND IN LAKE VICTORIA. had given birth to a forest of young trees, the spreading green foliage of which was rendered still more im- pervious to sunshine by a multitude of parasitical plants and lianes, which had woven the whole into as thick and dense a shade as I ever remember to have seen. - Below this mass of tangled branch and leaf the thermometer descends to 70° Fahr. ; without, exposed to the blazing sun, it ascends to 115° Fahr. In the evening we camped on a small island in the middle of the bay of Ukerewé, east of the beautiful isle of Nifuah, which is inhabited and is the home of an industrious colony subject to the king of Ukerewé. From the summit of Nifuah we could distinguish the 190 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION: tall treee which gave shade to our camp and to Kaduma's village of Kagehyi, across Speke Gulf. Upon coming down to the water's edge, we saw nothing but the blue hills, 600 feet high, situated three miles south of Kagehyi; nor, turning our eyes to the north, could we see anything of the low shore which the Rugedzi Channel cuts. Standing close to the water at Nifuah, we should have imagined that Ukerewé was an island separated by a strait about two miles broad ; but turning our boat to the north, a couple of hours' rowing brought us so near that we could see that the opposing point of the mainland is joined to the island, or appears to be joined, by a very low bush-covered neck of land a mile in width, which thus separates the waters of Speke Gulf from the great body of Lake Victoria. A still closer examination, however, reveals the fact that this narrow neck is cut by a shallow channel six feet wide and in some places only three feet deep. The ground, though extremely low on each side, is firm and compact enough ; but here and there it is of a boggy nature. _ Hence it will be seen that Captain Speke, who called Ukerewé an island, was literally correct. On the 13th we enjoyed a fine six-knot breeze, and were able to make a good day's work, though we still clung to the shore of Ukerewé near enough to note clearly the features of the water-line. A glance at the country of Ukerewé showed it to he exceeding populous and extensively cultivated. From Matembé to Yam- buyah extends a bold ridge about 300 feet above the lake, and beyond this point is a deep indentation, called Ukwya, near the western horn of which we perceived a group of islets named Kiregi. These are the haunts of an immense number of crocodiles, and one nest discovered here contained fifty-eight eggs. At almost every step I took, when walking round one of the reed-lined islets, a specimen of the ugly Saurian tribe sprang with a startling rush into the lake. - There appeared also to be as many monitors as there were crocodiles in this infested islet, and all round me, from the little creeks, and sometimes in very close proximity, ROUND LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA. 191 lowed the hippopotami. I shot one of the monitors, and it measured, seven feet from the tip of the snout to the tip of the tail. One of the boat's crew skinned it, but, not having means or time to preserve it, we were finally compelled to abandon our treasure. - Being extremely keen-eyed and agile in its movements, the monitor is a valuable auxiliary to the more indolent crocodile, which it wakes frequently from slumber, and by its impetuous rush at sight of the intruder saves it from becoming a prey to the hunter. In return for its services the greater monster furnishes it with many a delicious meal on its eggs. The enormous number of smaller lizards, skinks, and geckos, which these islets TGOGO, FISH FOUND IN LAKE VICTORIA, also sustain, prove that the monitors have abundant means of supplies. From here we sailed round the coast of Wiru, and leaving about four miles on our left the Kuneneh group, we steered N.N.W. Mag. for the Irangara Islands, at the north-western extremity of Ukerewé, the shore presenting to our view throughout only a low hill range clothed with woods. Leaving Irangara behind us, we emerged in view of the vast amplitude, as though of ocean, of the Victoria Nyanza.* * Out of respect to the memory of Captain Speke, I leave the word Nyanza as he spelled it, adding only the explanation that none but the Arabs and Wangwana pronounce it N'yanza. All the native tribes and nations round the lake pronounce it either Nee-yanja or Nee-yanza, Niyanja or Niyanza. 192 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. After sailing past the Kamassi and Kindevi islets, we rounded the hilly point of Masonga, and beheld on our right, as far as Shizu Island, a broad bay, bounded by a crescent-shaped ridge, springing some 300 feet above the lake, and extensively wooded, while on our left lay the large and populous island of Ukara, peopled by an intensely superstitious colony, who cherish the most devout faith in charms and witchcraft. As we rode past Shizu Island, we beheld the table- topped mountain of Majita rising, massive and grand, to the castward. On the 16th of March we encamped on one of the bird-rocks about three miles from the base of Majita, which rises probably between 2000 and 3000 feet above the lake. From the northern angle of Majita we sailed, on a north-east course for the district of Wye, across a deep bay distinguished only for the short hill range of Usambara, between which, on either side, extends the low and. almost treeless plain of Shahshi to the waters of Speke Gulf. From Wye we coasted along populous Ururi. - The country appears well cultivated, and villages > are numerous. - Some of the Waruri fishermen informed us we should be eight years circumnavigating the. lalce | Numerous rocky islands, almost all uninhabited at this period. stud the neighbourhood of the mainland, and the coast is so indented with deep bays and inlets that it requires very careful attention to survey it. Its features are similar to those of Usukuma, namely, swelling and uneven lines of hills, sometimes with slopes extending for three or four miles, more often, as in the case of nearly all the headlands, with points springing abrupt and sheer from the water's edge. Wherever the ridges rise gradually and at a distance from the lake, special advantages for cultivation appear to obtain, noted that alls such sites were thickly populated by the tribes of Ururi, Ukerewé, Sima, Magu, or Uchambi. A few of the Burdett-Coutts Islands exhibited traces of having been the resort of fugitives, for on several of them we discovered bananas and other garden plants, and ruined huts. We struck ( ao wat gs m I ling! Yor. HL. MR. STANLEY'S COMPANTONS. ) To face p. 200. (From a photograph taken at Zanzibar.) ROUND LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA. 198 across the bay to Ikungu, and thence across another to picturesque Dobo, nearly opposite Irieni. Having arrived at anchorage at dusk, we were led to seek shelter under the lee of one of the outlying rocks of Dobo. We had moored both by bow and stern, to prevent being swept by the restless surf against the rocks, but about midnight a storm arose from the east- ward, exposing us to all its fury. We were swept with great force against the rocks, and should inevitably have been lost, had not the oars, which we had lashed outside the boat as fenders, protected it. Through the pelting rain, and amid the thunder of the aroused waves which lashed the reef, we laboured strenuously to save ourselves, and finally succeeded in rowing to the other lee. Externally, the aspect of these islands on the coast of Ururi is very rugged, bare, and unpromising, but within are many acres of cultivable soil covered with green grass, and the hippopotami, which abound in the neighbourhood of these deserted, grassy islands, here find luxuriant pasturage. Like the tribes on the main- land, these amphibise appear to possess also their respective boundaries and their separate haunts. The hippopotami of Lake Victoria, moreover, are an exces- sively belligerent species, and the unwary voyager, on approaching their haunts, exposes himself to danger. We were frequently chased by them ; and as the boat was not adapted for a combat with such pachyderms, a collision would have been fatal to us. The settlements at Irieni possess large herds of cattle, but the soil does not seem to be highly cultivated. In this respect the people appear to resemble in character the Watusi in Unyamwezi, who live only on the milk of their cattle, and such grain as they are enabled to obtain by its sale. Suspecting, after leaving Irieni, and approaching Mori Bay, that a river of considerable importance emptied into it, we paid particular attention to every indentation on its uneven coast ; but on arriving at a lofty though small island at the eastern extremity, and climbing to its summit 150 feet above the lake, we saw yo: 14. W 194 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. that the river was small, and that its course was from south of east. Observation Island was rich in plants, though only a few hundred yards in length. The wild pine-apple, mimosas, acacia, thorn, gum, vines, euphor- bias, eschinomense, lianes, water-cane, and spear-grass flourished with a luxuriance quite astonishing. -As we passed Utiri, we observed that the natives were much interested in our boat, and some fishermen whom we encountered fell into ecstasies of laughter when they saw the novel method we adopted for propelling her. They mocked us good-naturedly, and by their gestures seemed to express contempt for the method in question, as not being equal to paddling. The rudder and its uses also excited unusual astonishment, and when the sail was hoisted, they skurried away as though it were an object of terror. After leaving the hilly coast of Utiri, the lowlands of Shirati and Mohrurna rose into view, and the black mountain mass of Ugeyeya appeared to the eastward at the distance of about twenty miles. To the west of it, grim and lofty, loomed the island of Ugingo. Clusters of grey, rocky islets stud the lake along the coast of Shirati, while from the water's edge, to a distance of five or six miles, an uninteresting plain, unenlivened by forest or verdure, slopes slowly up to where the land breaks into groups and masses of irregular hills. 'This continues to the mouth of a river which the natives call Gori, and which terminates the country of 'On the fright bank of "the river begins mountainous Ugeyeya, the south-western ex- tremity of which runs out into the lake like a promontory. Gori is an important and powerful river during the rainy season. It is said to rise in a north-easterly direction near Ravi. Far inland on the cast, to a distance of twenty-five days' journey, the country is reported to be a continuous plain, dotted with low hills and containing water only in pools About fifteen days' journey from the lake, the natives also report a region wherein are "low hills which discharge smoke ROUND LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA. 195 and sometimes fire from their tops." This district is called Susa, and is a portion of the Masai Land. All concurred in stating that no stream runs north, but that all waters for at least twenty days' journey enter the lake. - Beyond that distance lies a small lake which discharges a stream eastward-supposed by me to be the Pangani. On the 21st of March we were passing under the lee -for the wind blew then from the north-east, off the land-of the dark headlands of Goshi, which at first rise steeply from the lake 900 feet and, later, receding from the lake, attain a height of from 2000 to 3000 feet. On our left towered the tall, tree-clad island of Ugingo, extending far to the north-west. Thin blue columns of smoke rising from the depths of its woods announced the presence of man, probably fishermen or fugitives from the mainland. J udging from what I observed of the slopes of this extremity of Ugeyeya, I should say that much of this portion is uninhabited. Rounding the point that confronts the island of Ugingo, we passed between two more uninhabited islands, and then the dome-like hills of Wakuneh burst upon our view. - Our impression of the land on this side was that it was a pastoral country, and more thickly populated, for smoke curled more frequently from above depressions and sheltered positions. At evening we camped on Bridge Island, so named from a natural bridge of basaltic rock which forms an irregular arch of about twenty-four feet in length by about twelve feet in depth, and under which we were able to pass from one side of the island to the other. The island is covered with brush-wood and tall grass, and in the interstices of the rocks, where the vegetable deposit was of great depth, grew several fine mangroves. The height is about fifty feet above the lake, and from its summit we obtained a fine view of Ugingo Island, brooding in its gloomy solitude, and of the steep and high ranges of Ugeyeya, with the level plains of Wagansu and Wigassi extending eastward. To the west stretched an apparently boundless sea, its face 6 2 196 MFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. ruffled by a strong breeze, and farther northward still loomed upward unknown lands, their contour broken now by rounded domes and again by sharp cones. The number of islands encountered next day proved so troublesome to us that we were compelled to creep cautiously along the shore. As we neared Nakidimo, we observed the water change from its usual clear grey colour to that of a rich brown, and, seeing a creek close by, felt fully assured that we had discovered some important river. As we entered, the creek widened and disclosed picturesque features of outlined hill and wooded slope. We pulled steadily to its farther ex- BRIDGE ISLAND. tremity, but the stream which entered here was small, and oozed through a reedy marsh. We endeavoured for an hour to induce a canoe with three fishermen in it to approach, but all we could make out from Saramba, who, I fear, did not understand them, was that the name of the country was Ugoweh, which sounded so like You go 'way that I declined accepting it, until the natives shouted out still more clearly and emphatically, "TU-go-weh." , It was evident, however, that these natives spoke a language that our guide from the south did not quite comprehend. We continued our keen inspection of the numerous indentations from Ugoweh (?) ROUND LAKE FICTORIA NYANZA. 197 to Nakidimo Creek, into which an important stream debouches. The hippopotami were numerous, and as bold as those of Speke Gulf. Emerging once more into the lake, we anchored about a mile from the shore in six fathoms, and found that there was a current of about half a knot setting westward. At 2 p.a. we hoisted sail, and with a fair wind were able to hug the mainland and make good progress, within view of a very populous and extensively cultivated shore. This was the land of Maheta, we were told, and the same which we had sighted from the summit of Bridge Island. We flew away with a bellying sail along the coast of Maheta, where we saw a denser population and more clusters of large villages than we had beheld elsewhere. We thought we would make one more effort to learn of the natives the names of some of these villages, and for that purpose steered for a cove on the western shore. We anchored within fifty yards, and so paid out our cable that only a few feet of deep water separated us from the beach. Some half-dozen men, wearing small land-shells above their elbows and a circle of them round their heads, came to the brink. With these we opened a friendly conver- sation, during which they disclosed the name of the country as " Mahata" or " Maheta" in Ugeyeya; but more they would not communicate unless we would land. We prepared to do so, but the numbers on the shore increased so fast that we were compelled to pull off again until they should moderate their excitement and make room. They seemed to think we were about to pull off altogether, for there suddenly appeared out of the bush on each side of the spot where we had intended to land such a host of spears that we hoisted sail, and left them: to try their treachery on some. other boat or canoe more imprudent than ours. The dis- comfited people were seen to consult together on a small ridge behind the bush lining the lake, and no doubt they thought we were about to pass close to a small point at the north end of the cove, for they shouted gleefully at the prospect of a prize ; but, lowering sail, 198 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. we pulled to windward, far out of the reach of bow or sling, and at dusk made for a small island to which we moored our boat, and there camped in security. From our little island off Maheta, we sailed at the dawn of day towards the low shores, and were making good progress, when we bumped over the spine of a rising hippopotamus, who frightened by this strange and weighty object on his back, gave a furious lunge, and shook the boat until we all thought she would be shaken to pieces. The hippo, after this manifestation of disgust, rose a few feet astern, and loudly roared his defiance; but after ex- pertencing his great strength, we rowed awa hard from his neighbour- hood. About 10 a.x. we found ourselves abreast of the cones of Manyara, and discovered the long and loftly promontory which had attracted our atten- tion ever since leaving Maheta to be the island & of Usuguru; - andther, MUYAMWEZI PAGAZL though larger, copy of Ugingo. ~ VTlirough : a channel two miles broad we entered the bay of Manyara, bounded on the east by the picturesque hills of that country, on the north by the plain of Ugana, and on the west by Muiwanda and the long, narrow promontory of Chaga. This bay forms the extreme north-east corner of Lake Victoria, but strangers, travelling by land, would undoubtedly mistake it for a separate lake, as Usuguru, when looked at from this bay, seems to overlap the points of Chaga and Manyara. About six miles from the north-eastern extremity of the bay, we anchored on the afternoon of the 24th of March, about 100 yards from the village of Muiwanda. Here we found a people speaking the language of ROUND LAKE YICIORIA NFANZA. 199 Usoga. A good deal of diplomacy was employed between the natives and ourselves before a friendly intercourse was established, but we were finally success- ful in inducing the natives to exchange vegetable produce and a sheep for some of the blue glass beads called Mutunda. Neither men nor women wore any covering for their nakedness save a kirtle of green banana-leaves, which appeared to me to resemble in its exceeding primitiveness the fig-leaf costume of Adam and Eve. The men were distinguished, besides, by the absence of the upper and lower front teeth, and by their shaven heads, on which were left only irregular combs or crescents of hair on the bop and over the forehead. While we were negotiating for food, a magnificent canoe, painted a reddish brown, came up from the western side of the village, but, despite the loud invitations tendered to them, the strangers kept on their way, and proceeded up the bay of Manyara. On the 25th, refreshed by the meat and vegetables we had purchased, we began our voyage along the northern coast of Lake Victoria, and, two hours later, were in conversation with the natives of Chaga or Shaga, who informed us that Murambo, king of Usugnurn, was also king of Chaga. I am unable to decide whether Chaga is a promontory or an island, but I believe that there is a narrow channel navigable for canoes (of the same nature as the Rugedzi* Channel) separating Chaga from the mainland. Between its southern point and Usuguru Island, there is a strait about three-quarters of a mile wide, through which we passed to Fisherman's Island, where we rested for our noonday meal. At 2 ra. we arrived, after an hour's rowing, near Ngevi Island, and when close to it, we were compelled to take shelter from a furious nor- wester,. We had been at anchor scarcely ten minutes before we saw a small canoe, paddled by two men, boldly approach us from the shore of Ugamba, distant about * Rugedzi is the name of the narrow channel which separates Ukerewé from the mainland. 200 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. a mile and a half on our right or to the east of us. In our mildest accents we hailed them, and, after a protracted interval employed by them in curiously scanning us, they permitted us to hear the sound of their voices. But nothing would induce them to come nearer than about 100 yards. In the midst of these vain efforts to win their confidence, a canoe similar in form and colour to that which had won our admiration at Muiwanda advanced towards us _ A false prow projected upward, curving in the shape of a bent elbow, from the tip of which to the top of the bow of the canoe was strung a taut line, and along this was suspended some fine grass, which waved like a man as she charged up, bold and confident, propelled by forty paddlers Half of this number, who were seated forward, sprang up when they came within fifty yards, and, seizing long tufted lances and shields, began to sway them menacingly. As we made no demonstration of resistance, they advanced cautiously, and when within twenty yards, swerved aside, wheeling round us in a defiant style. Finally we broke silence, and demanded who they were, and why they came up as though they would attack us. As they did not understand either King- wana, Kisukuma, or Kinyamwezi, one of my boatmen attempted Kiganda, a little of which they appeared to understand ; and by this means we opened a con- versation. - They edged towards us a little nearer, and ended by ranging their long canoe alongside of our boat. Our tame, mild manners were in striking contrast to their bullying, overbearing, and insolent demeanour. The paddlers, half of whom were intoxi- cated, laid their hands with familiar freedom upon everything. . We still smiled, and were as mild and placable as though anger and resentment could never enter our hearts. : We were so courteous, indeed, that we permitted them to handle our persons with a degree of freedom which to them appeared unaccountable- unless we were so timid that we feared to give offence. If we had been so many sheep, we could not have vor.. 11: A WALLED CITY. -- -To face p. 200. ROUND LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA,. 201 borne a milder or a more innocent aspect. Our bold friends, reeling and jostling one another in their eager- ness to offend seized their spears and shields, and began to chant in bacchanalian tones a song that was tlpblly discordant. Some seized their shnos and flung stones to a great distance, which we applauded Then one of them under the influence of wine, and spirits elated by the chant, waxed bolder, and looked as though he would aim at myself, seated observant but mute in the stern of my boat. I made a motion with my hand as though deprecating such an action. The UNIVERSITIES MISSION AT MBWENNL sooty villain seemed to become at once animated by an hysteric passion, and whirled his stone over my head, a loud drunken cheer applauding his boldness. Perceiving that they were becommg wanton through our apparently mild demeanour, I seized my revolver and fired rapidly into the water in the direction the stone had been flung, and the effect was painfully indictous. . The bold insolent bacchanals at the first shot had sprung ovelboald and were swimming for dear life to Ngevi, leaving their canoe in our hands. " Friends, come back come : back ; ; why this fear ?" cried out our interpreter ; " we blmply wished to show you 202 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. that we had weapons as well as yourselves. Come, take your canoe; see, we push it away for you to seize it." We eventually won them back with smiles. We spoke to them sweetly as before. The natives were more respectful in their demeanour. They laughed, cried out admiringly ; imitated the pistol shots ; " Boom, boom, boom," they shouted. They then presented me with a bunch of bananas! We became enthusiastic admirers of each other. Meantime, two more large canoes came up, also bold and confident, for they had not yet been taught a lesson. - These new-comers insisted that we should visit their king Kamoydah. We begged to be excused. They became still more urgent in their request. We said it was impossible; they were strangers, and not very well behaved ; if they wished to barter with us, they could load their canoes and come to Ngevi, where we would be happy to exchange beads or cloth for their articles. "Three other canoes were now seen approaching. - We sat, however, extremely still, patient, and placable, and waited for them. The united voices of the 130 natives made a terrible din, but we endured it with saintly meekness and the fortitude of stoies- for a period. We bore the storm of entreaties mixed with rude menaces until instinct warned me that it was becoming dangerous. _ I then delivered some instructions to the boat's crew, and, nodding to the shore, affected to surrender with an indifferent grace. They became suddenly silent. We lifted the stone anchor, and took to our oars, steering to the broken water, ruffled by the nor'-wester, beyond the shelter of the island, convoyed by- the six canoes, We accompanied them some hundreds of yards, and then, suddenly hoisting sail, swept by them like an arrow. We preferred the prospect of the lone watery expanse to the company of the perverse inebriates of Ugamba. We continued sailing for half an hour, and as it was then near sunset, dropped anchor in seventy-five feet of water. The wind, which had swept in strong gusts from the north-west, suddenly fell, for in the north-east ROUND LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA. 203 the aspect of the sky had long been threatening. Clouds surged up in thick masses from that direction, and cast a gloom over the wood-clothed slopes and crests of Usuguru, which became almost as black as a velvet pall, while the lake grew as quiet as though vitrified into glass. Soon the piled up cloud-mass grew jagged, and a portentous zigzag line of deep sable hue ran through its centre, from which the storm seemed to issue. I requested the crew to come farther aft, and, fastening a double rope to the stone anchor, prepared every mug and baler for the rain with which we were threatened. The wind then fell, as though from above, upon our bowed heads with an overpower- ing force, striving against the resistance which it met, as if it would bear us down to the bottom of the lake, and then, repelled by the face of the water, it brushed it into millions of tiny ripples. 'The temperature fell to 62° Fahr., and with this sudden cold down dropped a severe shower of hailstones of great size, which pelted us with great force, and made our teeth chatter. After this the rain fell in sheets, while the lightning blazed, preceding the most dreadful thunder-claps I remember to have ever heard. The rain, indeed, fell in such quantities that it required two men for each section to keep the boat sufficiently buoyant to ride the crest of the waves. The crew cried out that the boat was sinking-that, if the rain continued in such volume, nothing could save us. In reply, I only urged them to bale her out faster. The sable mass of Usuguru-as I observed by the bars of intense light which the lightning flashed almost every second-was still in front, and I knew, therefore, that we were not being swept very fast to sea. Our energies were wholly devoted to keeping our poor pelted selves afloat, and this occupied the crew so much that they half forgot the horrors of the black and dismal night. For two hours this experience lasted, and then, unburdening our breasts with sighs of gladness not unmixed with gratitude, we took our anchor on board, and stole through the darkness to the western side of 204 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. Ngevi Island, where, after kindling a fire, we dried our clothes and our wetted bodies, and, over a hot potful of Liebig, affected to laugh at our late critical position. In the morning the world appeared re-born, for the sky was a bluish crystal, the shores looked as if fresh painted in green, the lake shone like burnished steel, the atmosphere seemed created for health. Howing with new life, we emerged out of our wild arbour of cane and mangrove to enjoy the glories of a gracious Heaven, and the men relieved their grateful breasts by chanting loudly and melodiously one of their most animating boat-songs. As we rowed in this bright mood across the bay of Ugamba, we noticed a lofty mount which I should judge to be fully 3000 feet above the lake, towards the north-east. From the natives of Usamu Island, we obtained the name of Marsawa for this the most con- spicuous feature of the neighbourhood. After obtaining a clear meridian altitude, on a small island between Usamu and Namungi, we steered for the latter. The art of pleasing was never attempted with such effect as at Namungi. - Though we had great difficulty in even obtaining a hearing, we persisted in the practice of the art with all its amusing variations, until our perse- verance was finally rewarded. A young fisherman was despatched to listen from the shore, but the young wretch merely stared at us. We tossed into his canoe a bunch of beads, and he understood their signification. He shouted out to his fellows on the shore, who were burning with curiosity to see closer the strange boat and strange crew, amongst whom they saw a man who was like unto no man they had ever seen or heard, or dreamed of. A score of canoes loaded with peaceful, harmless souls came towards us, all of whom begged for beads. - When we saw that they could be inspired to talk, we suggested to them that, in return for food, abundance of beads might be obtained. They instantly raced for the banana and plantain groves in great excitement. We were so close that we could hear the heavy clusters falling under ROUND LAKE VICTORIA NYANZMU. 205 the native machetes, and within a short time so many bunches were held out to us that we might have sunk under the waves had we purchased all. After storing a sufficient quantity to provision us for three days, of bananas, fowls and eggs, and sweet maramba or banana wine, and eliciting the names of the various islands, capes, and most prominent hills, we attempted to resume our journey. - But the people, upon whom our liberality had produced too strong an effect, would not permit us to do so until we had further celebrated our acquaint- VIEW OF ULAMBOYA. ance with copious draughts of their delicious wine. -The Wangwana would have been delighted to have exhausted many days in such a fascinating life, but the coast of the Victoria was lengthy, the winds not always favour- able, and we had a large number of friends in Usukuma who might become restless, were we too long absent. We therefore set sail, convoyed a long distance by about thirty canoes, manned by light-hearted guile- less creatures in an extreme state of enjoyment and redundant hilarity. 206 AFRICA AND ITE EXPLORATION, This was altogether a remarkable scene ; our exploring boat, with its lug-sail set, dragging about thirty canoes, whose crews were all intoxicated, and whose good-nature was so excessive as to cause them to supply our boat's crew with copious quantities of their wine, until all were in an uncommonly joyous mood. It would be well worth describing in detail, but I am compelled to be brief. After sailing in company a few miles, we finally freed ourselves from our hospitable entertainers, and steering across the channel to the island opposite Ney- gano, coasted along its well-wooded shores. Perceiving a deep bay farther west, we entered it, and near the extreme eastern end of Uvuma anchored about 150 yards off the village of Mombiti. Had we been better acquainted with the character of the Wavuma, we probably should have been less inclined to visit their shores ; but, ignorant of their fero- city, and zealous to perform our duties, we persevered in attempting to open intercourse with this tribe. We were, however, prudent enough not to rush into danger by taking it for granted that most savages were a guile- less, amiable set, who would never dream of injuring or molesting strangers -and this cireumspection most likely saved our lives. | After a few minutes' distant conversation, the Wavuma approached us, and we were enabled to purchase fuel for cooking, making a liberal payment. We hoped they would be induced to sell us food also, not that we were really in need of it, but because it furnished us with another motive for continuing our intercourse, and enlarged our opportunities for studying their nature and habits, and obtaining names for the localities around. We had numerous visitors, who appeared to be fine, manly, well-made fellows, but nothing would induce them to bring the smallest quantity of food for sale. We therefore resignedly forbore from troubling them, but inspected them with as much interest as they in- spected us. They were evidently people with abundant self-confidence, from the cool complacency with which they regarded us. Their canoes were beautiful specimens, ROUND LAKE FYICTORIA NYANZA. 207 and descriptions and pictures of them will be given hereafter. The shores were bold, irregular in outline, and clothed with a luxuriance of vegetation and many tall trees, between which were seen the banana groves, their pale green colour strongly contrasting with the darker tints of the forest foliage. The night that followed was wild. At sunset the temperature fell to 70° Fahr., and the wind was charged with a cold drizzle. Being in rather an exposed posi- tion, we moved our anchorage near the mouth of the CAMP AT ULPWAPWA. Munulu river, and not a minute too soon, for the wind increased to a gale; and the gale, heralded by a short- lived squall, brought hailstones with it. Preparing to pass the night here, we covered the boat with a sail, under which the sailors slept, though the watch, fre- quently relieved, was obliged to maintain a strict look- out. Throughout the long hours of darkness, the gale maintained its force; the boat pitched and groaned, and the rain fell in torrents ; the seas frequently tossed capfuls of water into us, so that, under such cireum- stances, we enjoyed no rest. 208 4FRICA AND ITS FXPLORATION:. By morning the gale had subsided, and the heavy, sluggish waves were slumbering. After waiting to cook our morning meal, and assisting the restoration of animal heat with draughts of Liebig's extract liquefied, we resumed our journey along the southern coast of Uvunma about 8 a.r. Upon leaving the bay of Mombiti, we were compelled to pass by a point of land closely covered with tall grass, whither we saw a large force of natives rush to take up advantageous positions. As we slowly neared the point, a few of them advanced to the rocks, and beckoned us to approach nearer. We acceded so far as to approach within a few feet, when the natives called out something and immediately attacked us with large rocks. We sheered off immediately, when a crowd emerged from their hiding-place with slings, with which they flung stones at us, striking the boat and wounding the steersman, who was seated next to me. To prevent further harm, I discharged my revolver rapidly at them, and one of the natives fell; whereupon the others desisted from their attack, and retreated into the grass, leaving us to pursue our way unmolested. Again edging close to the shore, we continued our investigations of the numerous indentations. The island rose with steep, grassy, treeless slopes to a height of about 300 feet above the lake. Herds of cattle were abundant, and flocks of goats grazed on the hillsides. The villages were many, but unenclosed, and consisted of a few dome-like huts, from which we inferred that the Wavuma were a people who could well defend themselves. At this time the lake was as still as a pond ; no clouds hung over any part of the horizon : the sky was of a steel blue colour, out of which the sun shone with true tropical fervour. But the atmosphere was not clear; a light vapour rose out of the lake, trembling in the heat, rendering islands but five miles distant dim and indistinct. Arrived in the channel between the tawny, grass-clad island of Bugeyeya and that of Uvuma, we steered mid- way, that we might take compass bearings. From a VIEW OF UGOMBO LAKE, To face p. 203. ROUND LAEE VICTORIA NYANZA. 209 small cove in the Uvuma shores, abreast of us, emerged quite a fleet of canoes, thirteen in number. The more advanced held up a handful of sweet-potatoes to our view, and we ceased rowing, but left the sail hoisted, which, with the very slight breeze then blowing, drifted us westward about half a knot an hour. The Wavuma were permitted to range alongside, and we saw that they were fully armed with spear and shield. We offered several kinds of beads for the potatoes they had offered to sell, but with a gesture of contempt they refused everything, and from their NEW CHURCH ON SITE OF OLD SLAVE-MARKET, ZANZIBAR, actions and manner we became soon convinced that they had manned their canoes for other purposes than barter; besides, they possessed only about twenty potatoes, which, singularly enough, were all in the first canoe. - Strange to say, also, the men of the first canoe were, though disinclined to sell, moderate in their be- haviour; but their temper changed as soon as their comrades had arrived, and had taken up their positions in front of our boat, blocking her progress through the water. The Wavuma, now emboldened by their numbers, waxed noisy, then insolent, and finally aggressive. They seized one thing after another with a cunning dexterity, If. P 210 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. which required all our attention to divine their purpose ; and while we were occupied with the truculent rabble in our front, a movement of which we were unaware was being made successfully at the stern; but the guide, Saramba, catching sight of a thief, warned me to cast my eyes behind, and I detected him in the act of robbery. Becoming assured by this time that the Wavuraa had arrived in such numbers for the sole purpose of capturing what appeared to them an appar- ently easy prey, and their manceuvres were evidently intended to embarrass us and distract our attention, I motioned them to depart with my hand, giving orders at the same time to the boat's crew to make ready their oars. This movement, of necessity, caused them to declare their purposes, and they manifested them by audaciously laying their hands on the oars, and arresting the attempts of the boat's crew to row. Either we were free or we were not. 'If yet free men, with the power to defend our freedom, we must be permitted to continue our voyage on the sea without let or hindrance. If not freemen, we had first to be disarmed. I seized my gun, and motioned them again to depart. With a loud, scornful cry they caught up their spears and shields, and prepared to launch their weapons. To be saved, we must act quickly, and I fired over their heads; and as they fell back from the boat, I bade my men pull away. Forming a line on each side of us, about thirty yards off, they flung their spears, which the boat's crew avoided by dropping into the bottom of the boat. The canoes astern clapped their hands glee- fully, showing me a large bunch of Mutunda beads which had been surreptitiously abstracted from the stern of the boat. I seized my repeating rifle and fired in earnest, to right and left. The fellow with the beads was doubled up, and the boldest of those nearest to us was disabled. The big rifle aimed at the waterline of two or three of the canoes, perforated them through and through, which compelled the crews to pay attention to their sinking crafts, and permitted us to continue our voyage into Napoleon Channel and to examine the ROUND LAKE VICTORIA NYFANZA. 211 Ripon Falls On an uninhabited point of Usoga, near the falls, we encamped ; and on the 29th of March crossed the channel, and coasted along Uganda between numerous islands, the largest of which are densely inhabited. § At Kiwa Island we rested for the day, and were received with the greatest cordiality by the chief, who sent messengers to the island of Keréngé, a distance of three miles, to purchase bananas and jars of maramba wine, for the guest, as he said, of the Kabaka Mtesa. As it was the first time for twenty-two days that we had lived with natives since leaving Kagehyi we cele- brated, as we were in duty bound, our arrival among friends. The next day, guided and escorted by the chief, we entered Ukafu, where we found a tall handsome young Mtongoleh in command of the district, before whom the chief of Kiwa Island made obeisance as before a great lord. The young Mtongoleh, though professing an ardent interest in us, and voluble of promises, treated us only to barmecide fare after waiting twenty-four hours. Perceiving that his courtesies, though suavely proffered, failed to satisfy the cravings of our jaded stomachs, we left him still protesting enormous admira- tion for us, and still volubly assuring us that he was preparing grand hospitalities in our honour. I was staggered when I understood in its full extent the perfect art with which we had been duped. " Could this be Central Africa," I asked myself, " wherein we find such perfect adepts in the art of deception? But two days ago the savagery of the land was intense and real, for every man's hand was raised in ferocity against the stranger. In the land next adjoining we find a people polite, agreeable, and professing the warmest admiration for the stranger, but as inhospit- able as any hotel-keeper in London or New York to a penniless guest!" At a little village in the bay of Buka we discovered we were premature in our judgment. The Mtongoleh at this place invited us to his village, spread out before P 3 212 4FRICA AND IVS EXPLORATION. us a feast of new as well as clotted milk, mellow and ripe bananas, a kid, sweet-potatoes, and eggs, and despatched a messenger instantly to the Kabaka Mtesa to announce the coming of a stranger in the land, declaring at the same time, his intention not to abandon us until he had brought us face to face with the great monarch of Equatorial Africa, in whom, he smilingly assured us, we should meet a friend, and under whose protection we might sleep secure. : We halted one more day to enjoy the bounteous fare of the chief of Buka. My admiration for the land and the people steadily increased, for I experienced with each hour some pleasing civility. The land was in fit accord with the people, and few more interesting pro- spects could Africa furnish than that which lovingly embraces the bay of Buka. From the margin of the lake, lined by waving water-cane, up to the highest hill-top, all was verdure-of varying shades. - The light green of the elegant matete contrasted with the deeper tints of the various species of fig; the satin-sheeny fronds of the graceful plantains were overlapped by clouds of the pale foliage of the tamarind ; while between and around all, the young grass of the pastured hill- sides spreads its emerald carpet. In free, bold, and yet graceful outline, the hills shut in the scene, swelling upwards in full dome-like contour, here sweeping round to enclose within its hollow a gorgeous plantain-grove, there projecting boldly into abrupt, steep headlands, and again receding in a succession of noble terraces into regions as yet unexplored by the white man. One village had a low pebbly beach, that ran in a sinuous light-grey line between the darker grey face of the lake and the living perennial green of a banana plantation. I imagined myself fallen into an estate which I had inherited by right divine and human, or at least I felt something akin to that large feeling which heirs of unencumbered broad lands may be supposed to feel, and attributed such an usual feeling to an attack of perfect digestion, and a free, unclogged, and undisturbed liver. ROUND LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA. 218 On the 2nd of April we proceeded, in an amiable, light-hearted mood, the favourites both of men and nature, along the beautiful shore separating Buka Bay from Kadzi Bay, and halted about noon at the village of Kirudo, where we experienced hospitalities similar to those of the day previous We purposely made our voyages short, in order that the Kabaka might be in- formed in time of our coming. Just as we were about to depart next morning, we saw six beautiful canoes, crowded with men, coming round a point, and for a very short period were under the impression that they composed another piratical fleet on its way to intercept us, but on surveying them with my glass I saw that several who were seated amidships were dressed in white, like the Wangwana, and our Waganda guides, among whom was our hospitable entertainer of Buka, informed us that they were the Kabaka's people. As they ap- proached us, the commander was seen arraying him- self for the occasion. He donned a bead-worked head- dress, above which long white cock's feathers waved, and a snowy white and long-haired goat-skin, while a crimson robe, depending from his shoulders, completed the full dress. In the middle of the bay of Kadzi we encountered, and a most ceremonious greeting took place. The com- mander was a fine lusty young man of twenty or there- abouts, and after springing into our boat he knelt down before me, and declared his errand to the following effect :- "The Kabaka sends me with many salaams to you. He is in great hopes that you will visit him, and has encamped at Usavara, that he may be near the lake when you come. He does not know from what land you have come, but I have a swift messenger with a canoe who will not stop until he gives all the news to the Kabaka. His mother dreamed a dream a few nights ago, and in her dream she saw a white man on this lake in a boat coming this way, and the next morning she told the Kabaka, and, lo! you have come. Give me 214 AFRICA AND IIS EXPLORATION. your answer, that I may send the messenger. Twiyanzi- yanzi-yanzi!" (Thanks, thanks, thanks.) Whereupon, as the young commander, whose name was Magassa, understood Kiswahili, I delivered the news to him and to his people freely and frankly ; and after I had ended, Magassa translated what the in- formation was into Ki- ganda, and immediately the messenger departed. Meanwhile Magassa im- plored me to rest for this one day, that he might show me the hospitality of his country, and that I might enter the Kaba- kas presence in good humour with him. Per- suaded also by my boat's crew to consent, we rowed to the village of Kadzi. Magassa was in his glory STRANGE GRANITE ROCK. now. - His voice became imperious to his escort of 182 men ; even the feathers of his curioqs head—(1.1955 waved prouder, and his robe had a sweeping dignity Evort'hy of a Roman emperor's. - Upon landing, Magassa's stick was employed frequently. The sub-chief of Kadzi was compelled to yield implicit obedience to his vice-regal behests. f ROUND LAKE NYANZA. 215 «" Bring out bullocks, sheep, and goats' milk, and the mellowest of your choicest bananas, and great jars of maramba, and let the white man and his boatmen eat, and taste of the hospitalities of Uganda. Shall a white man enter the Kabaka's presence with an empty belly ? See how sallow and pinched his cheeks are. We want to see whether we cannot show him kindness superior to what the pagans have shown him." ' Two bullocks and four goats, a basketful of fat mellow bananas, and four two-gallon jars of maramba, were then brought before us, to which extraordinary bounty the boat's crew did ample justice. Nor were the escort of Magassa without supplies." The country was at their mercy. _ They killed three bullocks for themselves, cut down as many bananas as they wished, and made a raid on the chickens, in accordance with Magassa's serene gracious permission to help themselves. . "A wonderful land!" I thought, " where an entire country can be subjected to such an inordinate bully and vain youth as this Magassa, at the mere mention of the Kabaka's name, and very evidently with the Kabaka's sanction !" Uganda was new to us then. We were not aware how supreme the Kabaka's authority was ; but, having a painful suspicion that the vast country which recognised his power was greatly abused, and grieving that the poor people had to endure such rough treat- ment for my sake, I did my best to prevent Magassa from extorting to excess. The next day we sallied forth from Kadki Bay, with Magassa's escort leading the way. We crossed Bazzi Bay, from the middle of which we gained a view of old Nabaganzi's Hill, a square tabular mount, from the summit of which Magassa said we should see the whole of Murchison Bay and Rubaga, one of the Kabaka's capitals. About 10 a.m. we rounded Muvywo Point, and entered Murchison Bay. The entrance is about four miles wide, and naturally guarded by Linant Island, a lofty, dome-shaped island, situated between the opposing points of Muywo and Umbiru. Upon leaving Muvywo south of us we have a full view of this fine body of 216 4A4FRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. water, which reaches its extreme width between Soweh Island, and Ukumba. .This, the farthest reach of its waters west, is about ten miles across, while its extreme length, from Linant Island to the arm of Monyono Bay, OUR LANDING PLACE. where Mtesa keeps his favourite canoes, cannot be less than fourteen miles. We encamped, according to Magassa's wish, behind Soweh Island, on the east side of Murchison Bay, whenee, the next day, we were to start for Usavara, the Kabaka's hunting village. Yor. 11. STANLEY'3 RECEPTION BY KING MTESA'S BODY GUARD,. Ir. face p. 216. ¢ #7 » CHAPIER X. Ix UGANDA AND Down tHr West Stor or VicrorIA NYANZA. Tur little insight we obtained into the manners of Uganda between Soweh Island, Murchison Bay, and Kiwa Island, near Ukafu Bay, impressed us with the consciousness that we were about to become acquainted with an extraordinary monarch and an extraordinary people, as different from the barbarous pirates of Uvuma, and the wild, mop-headed men of Eastern Usukuma, as the British in India are from their Afridi fellow-subjects, or the white Americans of Arkansas from the semi- civilized Choctaws. If politeness could so govern the actions of the men of Kiwa Island, far removed as they were from contact with the Uganda court, and suave duplicity could so well be practised by the Mtongoleh of Ukafu, and such ready, ungrudging hospitality be shown by the chief of Buka, and the Kabaka's orders be so promptly executed by Magassa, the messenger, and the chief of Kadzi, what might we not expect at the court, and what manner of man might not this < Kabaka ' te! Such were our reflections as Magassa, in his superb canoe, led the way from behind Soweh Island, and his little slave drummed an accompaniment to the droning chant of his canoe-men. Compared with our lonely voyage from our camp at Usukumu round all the bays and inlets of the much- indented coasts of the Great Lake, these five superb canoes forming line in front of our boat, escorting us to the presence of the great potentate of Equatorial Africa, formed a scene which promised at least novelty, and a view of some extraordinary pomp and ceremony. 218 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATIQGN. When about two miles from Usavara, we saw what we estimated to be thousands of people arranging them- selves in order on a gently rising ground. When about a mile from the shore, Magassa gave the order to signal our advance upon it with fire-arms, and was at once obeyed by his dozen musketeers. - Half a mile off I saw that the people on the shore had formed themselves into two dense lines, at the ends of which stood several finely - dressed men, arrayed in crimson and black and snowy white. As we neared the beach, volleys of musketry burst out from the long lines. Magassa's canoes steered outward to right and left, while 200 or 300 heavily loaded guns announced to all around that the white A FLOATING FORTLET. man-whom Mtesa's mother had dreamed about-had landed. Numerous kettle and bass drums sounded a noisy welcome, and flags, banners, and bannerets waved, and the people gave a great shout. Very much amazed at all this ceremonious and pompous greeting, I strode up towards the great standard, near which stood a short young man, dressed in a crimson robe which covered an immaculately white dress of bleached cotton, before whom Magassa, who had hurried ashore, kneeled reve- rently, and turning to me begged me to understand that this short young man was the Katekiro. Not knowing very well who the " Katekiro " was, I only bowed, whlch, strange to say, was imitated by him, only that his bow TGaXNba aND WEST SIDE OF YICTORIA4 NYVANZA. 2109 was far more profound and stately than mine. I was perplexed, confused, embarrassed, and I believe I blushed inwardly at this regal reception, though I hope I did not betray my embarrassment. A dozen well-dressed people now came forward, and grasping my hand declared in the Swahili language that I was welcome to Uganda. The Katekiro motioned with his head, and amid a perfect concourse of beaten drums, which drowned all conversation, we walked side by side, and followed by curious thousands, to a courtyard, and a circle of grass-thatched huts surrounding a larger house, which I was told were my quarters. The Katekiro and several of the chiefs accompanied me to my new hut, and a very sociable conversation took place. There was present a native of Zanzibar, named Tori, whom I shortly discovered to be chief drummer, engineer, and general jack-of-all-trades for the Kabaka. From this clever, ingenious man I obtained the information that the Katekiro was the prime minister, or the Kabaka's deputy, and that the titles of the other chiefs were Chambarango, Kangau, Mkwenda, Seke- bobo, Kitunzi, Sabaganzi, Kauta, Saruti. - There were several more present, but I must defer mention of them to other chapters. Waganda, as I found subsequently, are not in the habit of remaining incurious before a stranger. - Hosts of questions were fired off at me about my health, my journey, and its aim, Zanzibar, Europe and its people, the seas and the heavens, sun, moon, and stars, angels and devils, doctors, priests, and craftsmen in general ; in fact, as the representative of nations who " know everything," I was subjected to a most searching exam- ination, and in one hour and ten minutes it was declared unanimously that I had " passed." - Forthwith after the acclamation, the stately bearing became merged into a more friendly one, and long, thin, nervous black hands were pushed into mine enthusiastically, from which I gathered that they applauded me as though I had won the honours of a senior wrangler. Some proceeded direct to the Kabaka and informed him that the white 220 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. man was a genius, knew everything, and was remark- ably polite and sociable, and 'the Kabaka was said to have "rubbed his hands as though he had just come into the possession of a treasure." é The fruits of the favourable verdict passed upon myself and merits were seen presently in fourteen fat oxen, sixteen goats and sheep, a hundred bunches of bananas, three dozen fowls, four wooden jars of milk, four baskets of sweet potatoes, fifty ears of green Indian corn, a basket of rice, twenty fresh eggs, and ten pots of maramba wine. Kauta, Mtesa's steward or butler, at the head of the drovers and bearers of these various provisions, fell on his knees before me and said :- * The Kabaka sends salaams unto his friend who has travelled so far to see him. The Kabaka cannot see the face of his friend until he has eaten and is satisfied. - The Kabaka has sent his slave with these few things to his friend that he may eat, and at the ninth hour, after his friend has rested, the Kabaka will send and im call for him to appear at the MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. s Tur ®ixaxpa amp wiisres. burzah. I have spoken. Twi- yanzi-yanzi-yanzi !" I replied suitably, though my politeness was not so excessive as to induce me to kneel before the courtly butler and thank him for permission to say I thanked him. My boat's crew were amazed at this imperial bounty, which provided more than a bullock apiece for each member of my following. Saramba, the mop-headed guide from Usukuma, was requested to say what he thought of the Kabaka, who gave bullocks and goats in proportion as the Usukuma chief gave potatoes to his guests Saramba's wits were all this time under a cloud. He was still dressed in the primitive goatskin of his country, as greasy and dingy as a whaling cook's pan-cloth-the greasiest thing I ever saw. He was stared at, jeered, and flouted by the courtly, cleanly AND sIDZE OF FIGTOREd NYANZA. 2321 pages of the court, who by this time had taken such keen and complete mental inventories of my features, traits, and points of character as would have put to shame even a Parisian newsmonger. " What land is this undressed pagan from ?" asked the pages, loud enough for poor Saramba to hear. " Regard the pagan's hair," said another. "He had better not let the Kabaka see him," said a third. "He is surely a pagan slave remarked a fourth. Not he. _I would not buy him for a ripe banana," ventured a fifth. I looked up at Saramba, and half fancied that he paled. Poor Saramba ! " As soon as they are gone, off goes that mop, and we will dress you in white cloth," said Safeni, the coxswain, compassion- ately. But Baraka, one of the boatmen. an in- corrigible scoffer, said " What is the use? If we give him cloth, will he wear it? No; he will roll it up and tie it with a piece of string, and save it for his mammy, or sell it in Usukuma for a goat." To my surprise the boatmen endeavoured to impress the fact on Naramba's mind that the Kabaka was a special personal friend of theirs; that all these cattle, goats, and fowls were the Kabaka's usual gifts to Wang- wana, and they endeavoured, with a reckless disregard for accuracy, to enumerate fabulous instances of his generosity to a number of other Safenis, Sarbokos, Barakas, and Zaidis, all natives, like themselves, or Zanzibar. - Let Englishmen never henceforth indulge in the illusion, or lay the flattering unction to their self- love, that they are the only people who have studied the art of " chaff." The Zanzibaris are perfect in the art, as the sordid barbarian Saramba discovered to his cost. worth about a goat," HORN AND FLUTE. 222 AND IFS EXPLORATION. The ninth hour of the day approached. We had bathed, brushed, cleaned ourselves, and were prepared externally and mentally for the memorable hour when we should meet the Foremost Man of Equatorial Africa. Two of the Kabaka's pages, clad in a costume semi- Kingwana and semi-Kiganda, came to summon us-the Kingwana part being the long white shirt of Zanzibar, folded with a belt or band about the loins, the Kiganda part being the Sohari doti cloth depending from the right shoulder to the feet. "The Kabaka invites you to the burzah," said they. - Forthwith we issue from our courtyard, five of the boat's crew on each side of me armed with Snider rifles. We reach a short broad street, at the end of which is a hut. Here the Kabaka is seated _ with a multitude of chiefs, Wakungu * and Watongoleh, ranked from the throne in two opposing kneeling or seated lines, the ends being closed in by drummers, guards, executioners, pages, &e. &e. As we approached the nearest group, it opened, and the drummers beat mighty sounds, Tor's drumming being conspicuous from its sharper beat. The Foremost Man of Equatorial Africa rises and advances, and all the kneeling and seated lines rise-generals, colonels, chief, cooks, butlers, pages, exe- cutioners, &c. &c. The Kabaka, a tall, clean-faced, large-eyed, nervous- looking, thin man, clad in a tarbush, black robe, with a white shirt belted with gold, shook my hands warmly and impressively, and, bowing not ungracefully, invited me to be seated on an iron stool. I waited for him to show the example, and then I and all the others seated ourselves. He first took a deliberate survey of me, which I re- turned with interest, for he was as interesting to me as I was to him. His impression of me was that I was younger than Speke, not so tall, but better dressed. This I gathered from his criticisms as confided to his chiefs and favourites. My impression of him was that he and I would become * Wakungu is the plural of mkungu, a rank equivalent to " general." Watongoleh is the plural of mtongolek, or " colonel." UGANDA AND WEST SIDE OF NYANZA. 228 better acquainted, that I should make a convert of him, and make him useful to Africa-but what other impres- sions I had may be gathered from the remarks I wrote that evening in my diary :- * As I had read Speke's book for the sake of its geographical information, I retained but a dim remem- brance of his description of his life in Uganda. If I remember rightly, Speke described a youthful prince, vain and heartless, a wholesale murderer and tyrant, one who delighted in fat women. Doubtless he de- seribed what he saw, but it is far from being the state UGANDA DRUMS. of things now. Mtesa has impressed me as being an intelligent and distinguished prince, who, if aided in time by virtuous philanthropists, will do more for Central Africa than fifty years of Gospel teaching, unaided by such authority, can do. I think I see in him the light that shall lighten the darkness of this benighted region ; a prince well worthy the most hearty sympathies that Europe can give him. In this man I see the possible fruition of Livingstone's hopes, for with his aid the civilization of Equatorial Africa becomes feasible. I remember the ardour and love which animated Living- 224 APRICA AND ITS EXPLORA LION, stone when he spoke of Sekeletu; had he seen Mtesa, his ardour and love for him had been tenfold, and his pen and tongue would have been employed in calling all good men to assist him." Five days later I wrote the following entry :- "I see that Mtesa is a powerful Emperor, with great influence over his neighbours. I have to-day seen the turbulent Mankorongo, king of Usui, and Miram bo, that terrible phantom who disturbs men's minds in Unyam- wezi, through their embassies kneeling and tendering their tribute to him. I saw over 3000 soldiers of Mtesa nearly half civilized. I saw about a hundred chiefs who might be classed in the same scale as the men of Zanzibar and Oman, clad in as rich robes, and armed in the same fashion, and have witnessed with astonishment such order and law as is obtainable in semi-civilized countries. All this is the result of a poor Muslim's labour; his name is Muley bin Salim. He it was who first began teaching here the doctrines of Islam. False and con- temptible as these doctrines are, they are preferable to the ruthless instincts of a savage despot, whom Speke and Grant left wallowing in the blood of women, and I honour the memory of Muley bin Salim-Muslim and slave-trader though he be-the poor priest who has wrought this happy change. With a strong desire to improve still more the character of Mtesa, I shall begin building on the foundation stones laid by Muley bin Salim. I shall destroy his belief in Islam, and teach the doctrines of Jesus of Nazareth." It may easily be gathered from these entries that a feeling of admiration for Mtesa must have begun very early, and that cither Mtesa is a very admirable man, or that I am a very impressionable traveller, or that Mtesa is so perfect in the art of duplicity and acted so clever a part, that I became his dupe. The chief reason for admiration lay, probably, in the surprise with which I viewed the man whom Speke had beheld as a boy-and who was described by him through about two hundred pages of his book as a vain, foolish, peevish, headstrong youth and a murderous despot- IWr PWR M3 W431 (8 W411} | W #" 4 Yor. IL. SALT TRADERS. TOME p. 224. 4 . / CAGANDA AND WEST SIDE OF FICIORIA NYANZA. 225 sedate and composed in manner, intelligent in his ques- tions and remarks beyond anything I expected to meet in Africa. That I should see him so well dressed, the centre of a court equally well dressed and intelligent, that he should have obtained supremacy over a great region into which moneyed strangers and soldiers from Cairo and Zanzibar flocked for the sake of its supreme head, that his subjects should speak of him with respect, and his guests, so far as I could gather, honour him, were minor causes, which, I venture to consider, were sufficient to win my favourable judgment. That he should have been so royally liberal in his supplies to GUITARS. me, have proffered other courtesies in a tone of sincerity, and have appeared to me a kindly, friendly soul, who affected all the dignity of one who entertains a vast respect for himself and his position without affronting or giving wanton offence to those around him who also have wants, hopes, and self-respect, may also be offered as reasons which contributed not a little towards creating a favourable impression on me. I am aware that there are negrophobists who may attribute this conduct of Mtesa to a natural gift for duplicity. He is undoubtedly a man who possesses great natural talents, but he also shows sometimes the waywardness, petulance, and withal the frank, exuberant, joyous moods of youth. I will yOL 11 Q 226 AFPRICA AND ITY EXPLORATION also admit that Mtesa can be politic, as, indeed, future pages will show, but he has also a child's unstudied ease of manner. I soon saw that he was highly clever, and possessed of the abilities to govern, but his cleverness and ability lacked the mannerisms of a European. Whether or no I became Mtesa's dupe will be seen in the chapters on Uganda. Meanwhile, he appeared to me to be a generous prince and a frank and intelli- gent man, and one whose character was well worth studying for its novel intensity and extreme originality, and also as one whom I judged could be made to sub- serve higher ends than he suspected he was fashioned for. I met his friendly advances with the utmost cordiality, and the burzah concluded at sunset, with the same ceremony that had inaugurated it, leaving Mtesa and myself mutually pleased and gratified with our acquaintance. A description of Mtesa's person was written in my diary on the third evening of my visit to him, from which I quote : - " April 7.-In person Mtesa is tall, probably six feet one inch, and slender. He has very intelligent and agreeable features, reminding me of some of the faces of the great stone images at Thebes, and of the statues in the museum at Cairo. - He has the same fulness of lips, but their grossness is relieved by the general expression of amiability blended with dignity that pervades his face, and the large, lustrous, lambent eyes that lend 16 a strange beauty, and are typical of the race from which I believe him to have sprung. His colour is of a dark red brown, of a wonderfully smooth surface. When not engaged in council, he throws off unreservedly the bearing that characterizes him when on the throne, and gives rein to his humour, indulging in hearty peals of laughter. He seems to be interested in the discussion of the manners and eustoms of European courts, and to be enamoured of hearing of the wonders of civilization. He is ambitious to imitate as much as lies in his power the ways of the white man. When any piece of infor- mation is given him, he takes upon himself the task of UGANDA AND WEST SIDE OF VICTORIA NYFANZA 227 translating it to his wives and chiefs, though many of the latter understand the Swahili language as well as he does himself." On this day I recorded an interesting event which occurred in the morning. - Mtesa, about 7 A.M., sallied out of his quarters, accompanied by a host of guards, pages, standard-bearers, fifers, drummers, chiefs, native guests, claimants, &c., and about two hundred women of his household, and as he passed by my courtyard, he sent one of his pages to request my presence. - While he passed on, I paid some attention to my toilet, and made as presentable an appearance as my clothes-bag enabled me, and then, accom- panied by two of my boat's crew as gun- bearers, followed the court to the lake: Mtesa was seated on an iron stool, the centre of a large group of admiring women, who, as soon as I appeared, focussed about two hundred pairs of lustrous, humid eyes on my person, at which he laughed. '' You see, 'Stamles,"" said he, " how my women look at you ; they expected to see you accompanied by a woman of your own colour. I am not jealous though. Come and sit down." + ONE-STRINGED Presently Mtesa whispered an order to BANJO, a page, who sprang to obey, and respond- ing to his summons, there darted into view from the bend in Murchison Bay west of Usavara forty magnificent canoes, all painted an ochreous brown, which I perceived to be the universally favourite colour. En passant, I have wondered whether they admire this colour from an idea that it resembles the dark bronze of their -own bodies. For pure Waganda are not black by any means. The women and chiefs of Mtesa, who may furnish the best specimens of Waganda, are nearly all of a bronze or a dark reddish brown, with peculiar smooth, soft skins, rendered still more tender and velvety to the touch by their habit of shampooing with butter. Some of the women, I observed, were of o 2 228 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION. a very light red-gold colour, while one or two verged on white. The native cloths-the national dress-which depended from the right shoulders of the large number of those not immediately connected with the court were of a light brown also. It struck me, when I saw the brown skins, brown robes, and brown canoes, that brown must be the national colour. These forty canoes, which now rode on the calm grey- green waters of Murchison Bay, contained in the aggre- gate about 1200 men. The captain of each canoe was dressed in a white cotton shirt and a cloth head-cover, neatly folded turban-fashion, while the admiral wore over his shirt a crimson jacket, profusely decorated with gold braid, and on his head the red fez of Zanzibar. Each captain, as he passed us, seized shield and spear, and, with the bravado of a matador addressing the Judge of the Plaza to behold his prowess, went through the performance of defence and attack by water. The admiral won the greatest applause, for he was the Hector of the fleet, and his actions, though not remark- ably graceful, were certainly remarkably extravagant. The naval review over, Mtesa commanded one of the captains of the canoes to try and discover a crocodile or a hippopotamus. - After fifteen minutes he returned with the report that there was a young crocodile asleep on a rock about 200 yards away. " Now, Stamlee," said Mtesa, "show my women how white men can shoot." To represent all the sons of Japhet, on this occasion was a great responsibility, but I am happy to say that-whether owing to the gracious influence of some unseen divinity who has the guardianship of their interests or whether from mere luck-I nearly severed the head of the young crocodile from its body at a distance of 100 yards with a three-ounce ball, an act which was accepted as conclusive proof that all white men are dead shots. In the afternoon we amused ourselves with target practice, at which an accident occurred that might have produced grave results. A No. 8 double-barrelled rifle was fractured in Mtesa's hands at the second shot, but UGANDA AND WEST SIDE OF FICTORIA NYANZA. 229 fortunately without injuring either him or the page on whose shoulder it rested. General alarm prevailed for a short time, until that, seeing it was about to be accepted as a bad omen, I examined the rifle and showed Mtesa an ancient flaw in the barrel, which his good sense perceived had led to the fracture. The gun was a very old one, and had evidently seen much service. On the 10th of April the court broke up its hunting lodges at Usavara, on Murchison Bay, and moved to the capital, whither I was strongly urged to follow. ONE OF MR. STANLEY'S COMPANIONS-BULL. Mtesa, escorted by about two hundred musketeers and the great Wakungu and their armed retainers, travelled quickly, but owing to my being obliged to house my boat from the hot sun, I did not reach the capital until L P.M. The road had been prepared for his Imperial Majesty's hunting excursion, and was eight feet wide, through jungle and garden, forest and field. Beautiful land- scapes were thus enjoyed of rolling land and placid lake, of gigantic tamarinds and gum-trees, of extensive 280 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATIQN. banana groves and plantations of the ficus, from the bark of which the national dress, or mbugu, is made. The peculiar dome-like huts, each with an attempt at a portico, were buried deep in dense bowers of plantains which filled the air with the odour of their mellow rich fruit. The road wound upward to the summits of green hills which commanded exquisite prospects, and down again into the sheltered bosoms of woody nooks, and vales, and tree-embowered ravines. Streams of clear water murmured through these depressions as they flowed towards Murchison Bay. The verdure was of a brilliant green, freshened by the unfailing rains of the Equator; the sky was of the bluest, and the heat, though great, was tempered by the hill breezes, and frequently by the dense foliage overhead. Within three hours' march from Usavara, we saw the capital crowning the summit of a smooth rounded hill a large cluster of tall conical grass huts, in the centre of which rose a spacious, lofty, barn-like structure. The large building, we were told, was the palace! the hill, Kubaga ; the cluster of huts, the imperial capital ! From each side of the tall cane fence enclosing the grass huts on Rubaga hill radiated very broad avenues, imperial enough in width. Arriving at the base of the hill, and erossing by a " corduroy" road over a broad slimy ooze, we came up to one of these avenues, the ground of which was a reddish clay strongly mixed with the detritus of hematite. It gave a clear breadth of 100 feet of prepared ground, and led by a gradual ascent to the circular road which made the cireuit of the hill outside the palace enclosure. Once on the dome- like height, we saw that we had arrived by the back avenue, for the best view of this capital of magnificent distances was that which was obtained by looking from the burzah of the palace, and carrying the eye over the broad front highway, on each side of which, as far as could be defined from the shadows of the burzah, the Wakungu had their respective courts and houses, em- bowered in gardens of banana and fig. Like the enelo- VGaNDA dND WEST SIDE OF ritITonrIA NYANZA. 281 sure round the palace courts and quarters, each avenue was fenced with tall matete (water-cane) neatly set very close together in uniform rows. The by-streets leading from one avenue to another were narrow and crooked. While I stood admiring the view, a page came up, and, kneeling, announced that he had been despatched by the Emperor to show me my house. Following him, I was ushered within a corner lot of the fenced square, between two avenues, into what I might appropriately term a " garden villa" of Uganda,. My house, standing in the centre of a plantain garden about 100 feet square, was twenty feet long, and of a marquee shape, with a miniature portico or eave projecting like a bonnet over the doorway, and was divided into two apartments. - Close SEROMBO HUTS. by, about thirty feet off, were three dome-like huts for the boat's crew and the kitchen, and in a corner of the garden was a railed space for our bullocks and goats. Were it not that I was ever anxious about my distant camp in Usukuma, I possessed almost everything requi- site to render a month's stay very agreeable, and for the time I was as proud of my tiny villa as a London merchant is of his country house. In the afternoon I was invited to the palace. A number of people in brown robes, or white dresses, some with white goatskins over their brown robes, others with cords folded like a turban round their heads, which I heard were extinguishing marks of the executioners, 232 AURICA AND ITVS EXPLORATION. were also ascending to the burzah. Court after court was passed until we finally stood upon the level top in front of the great house of cane and straw which the Waganda fondly term Kibuga, or the Palace. The space at least was of aulic extent, and the prospect gained at every point was also worthy of the imperial eyes of the African monarch. On all sides rolled in grand waves a voluptuous land of sunshine, and plenty, and early summer verdure, cooled by soft breezes from the great equatorial fresh- water sea. Isolated hill-cones, similar to that of Rubaga, or square tabular masses, rose up from the beautiful landscape to attract, like mysteries, the curious stranger's observation, and villages and banana groves of still fresher green, far removed on the crest of distant swelling ridges, announced that Mtesa owned a land worth loving. Dark sinuous lines traced the winding courses of deep ravines filled with trees, and grassy extents of gently undulating ground marked the pastures ; broader depressions suggested the cultivated gardens and the grain fields, while on the far verge of the horizon we saw the beauty and the charm of the land melting into the blues of distance. There is a singular fascination about this country. The land would be loved for its glorious diversified prospects, even though it were a howling wilderness ; but it owes a great deal of the power which it exercises over the imagination to the consciousness that in it dwells a people peculiarly fascinating also. "How comes it," one asks, " that this barbarous, uneducated. and superstitious monarch builds upon this height ?" Not for protection, surely, for he has smoothed the uneven ground and formed broad avenues to approach it, and a single torch would suffice to level all his fences ? Does he, then, care for the charms of the prospect ? Has he also an eye to the beauties of nature ? Were this monarch as barbarous as other African chiefs whom I had met between Zanzibar and N apoleon Channel, he would have sought a basin, or the slope of some ridge, or some portion of the shores of the lake 4 SIDE OF VICTORIA } ight best graze, and w/ 1 3 ass dwellings. But, _ | may look abroad f [fs Jand. He lov, 41 palace, spaci fround it ; h ' courtyard his ca To fate p: 332. ~ ARABS ATTACKING VILLAGE. Yor. JL RICA AND ITS EXPLORL ling to the burzah. ve finally stood upor house of cane ani rm Kibuga, or K aulle extent, vas also wort C (ch. 'and wave 'and ea tthe s 'one 'n C@aNDA AND WEST sIDE oF rICTORIA NFYANZA. 289 where his cattle might best graze, and would there have constructed his grass dwellings. But this man builds upon a hill that he may look abroad, and take a large imperial view of his land. He loves ample room ; his house is an African palace, spacious and lofty ; large clean courtyards surround it; he has spacious quarters for his harem, and courtyards round those; he has spacious quarters for his guards, and extensive court- yards round those; a cane enclosure surrounds all, and beyond the enclosure again is a wide avenue running round the palace fences. His people, great and small, imitate him as much as lies in their power. They are well-dressed, and immodesty is a ctime in the dand.. Yet - I am still in Africa, and only yes- terday, as it were, I saw naked men and naked women: It may be that such a monarch and people fascinate me as much as their land. The human figures in the landscape have, indeed, as much interest for me as the gracious landscape itself. The drums sounded. Mtesa had seated himself on the throne, and we hastened to take our A rugA-RUGA, seats. Since the 5th of April, I had enjoyed ten interviews with Mtesa, and during all I had taken occasion to introduce topics which would lead up to the subject of Christianity. Nothing occurred in my presence but I contrived to turn it towards effecting that which had become an object to me, viz., his conversion. There was no attempt made to confuse him with the details of any particular doctrine. I simply drew for him the image of the Son of God humbling Himself for the good of all mankind, white and black, and told him how, while He was in man's disguise, He was seized and crucified by wicked people who scorned His divinity, and yet out of His great love for them, while yet 234 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION, suffering on the cross, He asked His great Father to forgive them. I showed the difference in character between Him whom white men love and adore, and Mohammed, whom the Arabs revere: how Jesus en- deavoured to teach mankind that we should love all men, excepting none, while Mohammed taught his followers that the slaying of the pagan and the un- believer was an act that merited Paradise. I left it to Mtesa and his chiefs to decide which was the worthier character. I also sketched in brief the history of religious belief from Adam to Mohammed. I had also begun to translate to him the Ten Commandments, and Idi, the Emperor's writer, transcribed in Kiganda the words of the Law as given to him in choice Swahili by Robert Feruzi, one of my boat's crew, and a pupil of the Universities Mission at Zanzibar. The enthusiasm with which I launched into this work of teaching was soon communicated to Mtesa and some of his principal chiefs, who became so absorbingly in- terested in the story as I gave it to them that little of other business was done. - The political burzah and seat of: justice had now become an alcove, where only the moral and religious laws were discussed. Before we broke up our meeting Mtesa informed me that I should meet a white man at his palace the next day. A white man, or a Tutk ? " A white man like yourself," repeated Mtesa. " No; impossible ! " "Yes, you will see. He comes from Masr (Cairo), from Gordoom (Gordon) Paska." "* Ah, very well, I shall be glad to see him, and if he is really a white man I may probably stay with you four or five days longer," said I to Mtesa, as I shook hands with him, and bade him good-night. The " white man," reported to be coming the next day, arrived at noon with great éclat and flourishes of trumpets, the sound of which could be heard all over the capital. Mtesa hurried off a page to invite me to his burzah. I hastened up by a private entrance. UGANDA AND WEST SIDE OF FICTORIA NYANZA. . 285 Mtesa and all his chiefs, guards, pages, executioners, claimants, guests, drummers and fifers were already there, en grande tenue. Mtesa was in a fever, as I could see by the paling of the colour under his eyes and his glowing eyeballs. The chiefs shared their master's excitement. " What shall we do," he asked, " to welcome him ?" " Oh, form your troops in line from the entrance to the burzah down to the gate of the outer court, and ONE OF THE WATUTA. present arms, and as he comes within the gate, let your drums and fifes sound a loud welcome." * Beautiful!" said Mtesa. "Hurry Tori, Chamba- rango, Sekebobo: form them in two lines just as Stamlee says. Oh, that is beautiful! And shall we fire guns, Stamlee ?" "* No, not until you shake hands with him ; and as he is a soldier, let the guards fire, then they will not injure anyone." Mtesa's flutter of excitement on this occasion made me think that there must have been a somewhat similar 236 AFRICA AND ITS EXPLORATION, scene before my landing at Usavara, and that Tori must have been consulted frequently upon the form of cere- mony to be adopted. What followed upon the arrival of the white man at the outer gate had best be told as an interlude by the stranger himself :- "At two o'clock, the weather having cleared up, Mtesa sent a messenger to inform me that he was ready to receive me. Notice is given in the camp; every one puts on his finest clothes; at last we are ready ; my brave Soudanians look quite smart in their red jackets and white trousers I1 place myself at their head ; trumpets flourish and drums sound as we follow an avenue from eighty-five to a hundred yards wide, running direct north and south, and terminating at Mtesa's palace.". . . . " On entering this court, I am greeted with a fright- ful uproar; a thousand instruments, each one more outlandish than the other, produce the most discordant and deafening sounds. Mtesa's body-guard, carrying guns, present arms on my appearance; the king is standing at the entrance of the reception hall. I approach and bow to him & la turgue. - He holds out his hand, which I press; I immediately perceive a sun- burnt European to the left of the king, a traveller, whom I imagine to be Cameron. We exchange glances with- out speaking. " Mtesa enters the reception room, and we follow him. It is a narrow hall about sixty feet long by fifteen feet wide, the ceiling of which, sloping down at the entrance, is supported by a double row of wooden pillars which divide the room into two aisles. The principal and central room is unoccupied, and leads to the king's throne ; the two aisles are filled with the great digni- taries and chief officers. At each pillar stands one of the king's guard, wearing a long red mantle, a white turban ornamented with monkey skin, white trousers and black blouse with a red band. All are armed with guns. " Mtesa takes his place on his throne, which is a VOANDA sIDE OP- rICTORIA NYANZA. 2087 wooden seat in the shape of an office arm-chair ; his feet rest upon a cushion ; the whole placed on a leopard's skin spread over a Smyrna carpet. - Before the king is & highly polished elephant's tusk, and at his feet are two boxes containing fetiches ; on either side the throne is a ; M W, Mm if mm” MTESA, THE EMPEROR OF UGANDA. lance (one copper, the other steel), each held by a guard ; these are the insignia of Uganda ; the dog which Spekc mentions has been done away w ith. - Crouc ching at the toot of the king are the vizier and two seribes. "* Mtesa is (homfiul in his manner, and does not lack a certain natural air of distinction ; his dress is elegant : 238 AND ITS EXPLORATION, a white couftan finished with a red band, stockings, slippers, vest of black cloth embroidered with gold, and a tarbouche with a silver plate on the top. He wears a sword with ivory-inlaid hilt (a Zanzibar weapon), and a staff. "I exhibited my presents, which Mtesa scarcely pre- tended to see, his dignity forbidding him to show any curiosity. " I address the traveller, who sits in front of me, on the left of the king : 'Have I the honour of speaking to Mr. Cameron ?' : 'No, Nir; Ms, Stanley, " ; ' M. Linant de Bellefonds, member of the Gordon-Pasha Expedition." " We bow low to each other, as though we had met in a drawing-room, and our conversation is at an end for the moment. " This meeting with Mr. Stanley greatly surprises me. ftanley was far from my thoughts; I was totally ignorant of the object of his expedition. "I take leave of the king, who meanwhile has been amusing himself by making my unlucky soldiers parade and flourish their trumpets. I shake hands with Mr. Stanley, and ask him to honour me with his presence at dinner. * I had scarcely been more than a few minutes in my hut when Mr. Stanley arrived. After having mutually expressed the pleasure our meeting gave us, Mr. Stanley informed me that Cameron had written from Ujiji that he was starting for the Congo. Mr. Cameron, he told me, must have been much embarrassed by the question of money, having exceeded the amount allowed by the Royal Geographical Society. At Ujiji, he would have lost all his companions, and would be actually alone. Mr. Stanley was loud in his praises of Cameron, and hoped that he would succeed in his expedition." . i "Leaving his expedition at Usukuma, Mr. Stanley embarked with eleven men on the Victoria Lake, in a small boat which he had brought with him ; he explored all the eastern part of the lake, penetrating into all the UGANDA AND WEST SIDE OF VICTORIA NYANZ4A. 289 bays, gulfs, and creeks, and taking the bearings of islands and capes. I saw Mr. Stanley's work, which is very extensive. He showed me some curious sketches of islands he had seen; the islands of the Bridge, the Grotto, and the Sphinx. The first is a natural bridge of granite, with all the appearance of a bridge made by the hand of man ; the second is like the grotto of the enchantress Calypso; the third greatly resembles the Egyptian Sphinx." . . . . COAST OF SPEKE GULF. Colonel Linant de Bellefonds having thus described our meeting, there remains but little for me to add. As soon as I saw him approaching the burzah, I recognized him to be a Frenchman. Not being intro- duced to him-and as I was then but a mere guest of Mtesa, with whom it was M. Linant's first desire to converse-I simply bowed to him, until he had con- cluded addressing the Emperor, when our introduction took place as he has described. I was delighted at seeing him, and much more 240 AND IFS EXPLORATION, delighted when I discovered that M. Linant was a very agreeable man. _ I observed that there was a vast differ- ence between his treatment of his men and the manner in which I treated mine, and that his intercourse with the Waganda was conducted after exactly opposite principles to those which governed my conduct. He adopted a half military style which the Waganda ill brooked, and many things uncomplimentary to him were uttered by them. He stationed guards at the entrance to his courtyard to keep the Waganda at a distance, except those bearing messages from Mtesa, while my courtyard was nearly full of Watongolehs, soldiers, pages, children, with many a dark-brown woman listening with open ears to my conversation with the Waganda. In fact, my courtyard from morn- ing to night swarmed with all classes, for I loved to draw the natives to talk, so that perfect confidence might be established between us, and I might gain an insight into their real natures. By this freer converse with them I became, it seemed, a universal favourite, and obtained information sufficient to fill two octavo volumes. M. Linant passed many pleasant hours with me. Though he had started from Cairo previous to m departure from Zanzibar, and consequently could com- municate no news from Europe, I still felt that for s brief period