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McBmDE (9 Co. l’ublishe‘d, 1923 TO MY DEAR STEPMOTHER WHOSE LABORS AND IDEAS ARE THE SOURCE OF THIS LITTLE BOOK, IT IS DEDICATED IN SLIGHT AND IMPER- FECT EXPRESSION OF MY RESPECT, ADMIRATION AND AFFECTION. Acknowledgement is hereby made to the gar- den of “Y nlecote,’ ’ the country home of Mr. and Mrs. Edward Bruce H ill at Mountain Lakes, New Jersey, to the teachings of whose mistress and to whose own charm any knowledge in this book is due. CHAPTER II III IV VI VII VIII IX X XI XII XIII XIV XV XVI XVII XVIII XIX XX CONTENTS THE MOONLIGHT GARDEN . THE WATER GARDEN . THE ROCK GARDEN . THE WILD FLOWER GARDEN . THE COURT OF THE QUEEN OF FLOWERS THE CHILDREN’S GARDEN . THE BULB GARDEN THE INDOOR GARDEN . . . THE GARDEN THAT FACES FOUR WAYS . HALF AN ACRE AND WHAT CAN BE DONE WITH IT . OLD AND NEW FLOWERS FOR THE GARDEN . WHERE ART AND NATURE MEET . OUR BIRDS AND OUR GARDENS THE FLOWER SPECTRUM . GARDEN FRIENDS AND FOES . TREES AND TREE PLANTING . WINDOW BOX GARDENING . FLOWERS FOR CUTTING . GARDEN WARNINGS THE MORE COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS AND HOW TO GROW THEM . PAGE 21 29 39 49 56 67 77 86 97 108 118 129 144 154 166 172 181 191 (A. «E;- 7726 W 0077/43/21! gal/Jail 70THLVG 1'; [my/far {ml/cw f/lr’ mom/ig/zt r/mlz a [wary Maui/1g of 415/1115 Homo/w, cc/U/c’ r/u' pwjbmc’ {club/1 {/54 J‘r’ln/fbrf/z 25‘ parnflz/m/v I/o/l't‘mé/z' zgflc‘r 1/121 1/850 fizz; fly/[:71 GARDEN PORTRAITS CHAPTER I THE MOONLIGHT GARDEN HE average garden lover revels in a mass of color. At his fancy every shade that nature can produce is called into play, and at his wish combina- tions arise, almost dazzling in their brilliancy, so that the garden seems, even at a distance, to shine and twinkle as it lies spread out, glittering in the summer sun. It is to secure this brilliancy of effect that the gardener bends his ingenuity—in an effort to please the eye by day and by day alone. But why should the garden have no wider appeal than this? Let it be ever so lovely in the sunshine, there is no reason why a garden cannot be devised which will be equally lovely under the summer stars, and lose nothing of its daylight charm. Even in sum- mer, the day does not comprise all of our waking hours. And in the evening, as we sit on the porch overlooking the garden, at night as we lie awake on the sleeping [1] GARDEN PORTRAITS porch, why should not our flowers give us the pleasure that they do during the day? In selecting blossoms for the garden which will lose none of its beauty by night, two things are especially to be borne in mind. First, as none of us and probably none of our friends will prove adventurous enough to explore its shadowy paths and mysterious corners by the light of the moon and stars—which seems so bril- liant from the safety of the porch and is really so treacherous to the wanderer in garden paths—it must be a “long distance” garden. That is, the flowers must be selected primarily for their striking qualities, which will make them both Visible and effective at a distance ——and not too great a distance, for the “moonlight gar- den” should be placed as near as may be to the house, to ensure its best enjoyment. For example, the sweet pea, charming though it is, has no value in the moon- light garden compared with the tall, rigid stalks of the yucca, which, stiff and formal by day, at night raise their snowy heads like some giant protector of the garden, shining silver in a dusky corner. For the value of a flower here depends not upon its delicacy but upon its power to mass well, or to raise stately and effective spikes of bloom. The second requirement of the night garden is per- fume. After the dew has fallen the scent of all flowers is more powerful than it is by day, and the moonlight [2] THE MOONLIGHT GARDEN garden can, and should, appeal to the sense of smell— “that fallen angel,” as it has been called by one of our leading essayists—as much as to that of sight. For the sake of its perfume a blossom may be tolerated here which on account of its appearance, or the lack of it, would otherwise be rigorously excluded—such as, for example, the wallflower or the mignonette. In planning your moonlight garden, provision should be made, first of all, for a lily pool. This is easily done, and no one thing will be productive of greater enjoyment to you during the entire summer, or more effective by night,—both because of the beauty of the lilies which bloom so abundantly in the evening, and because of the lovely effect which you will find pro- duced by the reflection of the summer moon and stars in the midst of your garden. Day-blooming lilies of both the hardy and tender varieties may, of course, be in- cluded in it; but here, as we are only considering the pool as a part of the moonlight garden, we may pass them by. The night-blooming water lilies grow, not lying flat upon the surface of the water, but raised upon stout stems some distance above it, and are accordingly clearly visible at night. They are deliciously perfumed and grow to a considerable size, some reaching a diam- eter of twelve inches, and bloom from sunset to dawn unless the morning be overcast, when they remain open [3] GARDEN PORTRAITS until well into the day. Unfortunately they all belong to the tender varieties which, while they are rapid growers and more free-flowering than the hardy ones, must be treated as annuals, forcing their owner to purchase a new supply each spring. While an ex- pert may succeed in “wintering” a tender water lily, such a task is almost impossible to the ama- teur gardener. As the plants are, luckily, not high in price, this difficulty is not of great moment, save to the feelings of the gardener; and they will be found to repay well the shortness of their lives by their loveliness. Of the night—blooming lilies there are many sorts from which to choose—-red, pink and white. The blue lilies are all day—blooming, nor is this to be regretted, as blue is a color which does not show well by night, while the beauty of the night bloomers is enhanced by artificial light. Among the best may be mentioned the free-flowering rubm rosea and George Huster,— bright red and bearing blossoms which measure from eight to ten inches across; while the Omarana, with its enormous blooms, and the Basset/ii, with its mass of flowers, are among the best of the pinks. The white lilies are especially striking for use in the night gar- den, and, since they are even larger than the others, make a magnificent showing. The dentata, dentata magnifica and dentata superba bear gigantic blossoms, [4] THE MOONLIGHT GARDEN produced very freely and often measuring a foot across. Do not have a fountain in your water garden. The plash of falling water is charming, especially by night, but lilies thrive better in a stagnant pool. Be careful, too, not to plant too many; they will grow rapidly and cover the surface of the pool more completely than you expect. Do not forget that one of the charms of your water garden by night will be the reflection of the moon, as she passes over it, hanging low and red in the summer sky. For the rest of the garden, what flowers will be most effective? White ones, first of all; and if any others are to be used, let them be of the palest pink or yellow ~any pale color that will stand out well in the moon- light; red or blue never. The effect will be almost un- earthly in its loveliness by night, and by day you will be surprised to find how beautiful an effect will be produced by a heavy massing of white flowers. And under the stars—was not your garden lovely as it lay sleeping in the starlight under the December snow? How much more lovely is the effect in July, when snow- white masses of phlox stand out in contrast to the nod- ding bells of the nicotiana, and the perfume of the Lilium a-uratmn mingles with that of stock as they both mount upward to your window? You may ex— pect to miss your many-colored garden by day, but [5] GARDEN PORTRAITS your White garden will more than make up for all its beauties. You have seen some play or pageant built up upon spectacular effect, Where colored lights, span- gles, elaborate scenery, devices of every kind, were used to produce an effect of splendor and magnificence. Yet such a spectacle does not remain, perhaps, in your mind as does another, equally spectacular in design, but staged by some manager of international reputa- tion as an artist. Here, everything is restrained; pale colors, Greek setting, little to attract the eye, but every- thing of the best, make the first spectacle seem sud- denly cheap and tawdry. So, I think, will your jewel- colored garden seem, after you have enjoyed the white splendor of your night garden under the moon and stars. The “backbone” of the night garden is, like that of the day-time garden, phlox. Here the variety must be white—Mrs. Jenkins is perfectly satisfactory. The Nicoticma afi‘inis, too, each blossom of which shows so distinctly in the starlight, and, above all others, both for its perfume and its shimmering whiteness, the Lilium am'atum, exquisite as a border to a path, to- gether with its less striking sisters, the Lilium specio- sum album and the Lilium candidum, are to be recom- mended also. The pale spires of hollyhocks and stock should not be forgotten; the white iris raises its silver halberd in troops as its masses assem- [6] THE MOONLIGHT GARDEN ble beneath the silver moon; the yucca and the sum- mer hyacinth shine white and tall, great white sen- tinels in a distant corner. The Physostegz'a alba furnishes a snowy mass of flowers lasting nearly a month; and the tall white foxgloves in spring and early summer are among the most charming additions to the moonlight garden. For a border plant the Achillea, is effective after the candytuft and sweet alyssum have gone by. The bright little “snow—omthe-mountains,” with its pretty green and white foliage and its insignificant flower, which sows itself so persistently over the garden and which no amount of rough transplanting will kill, makes a brave showing at night. The white perennial heliotrope or valerian wafts a delicious fragrance for some distance about the bed where it lies sleeping. A few groups of tuberoses planted here and there will grow to a height of about three feet, and bear spikes of bloom a foot in length. Even those to Whom their perfume is usually disagreeable will enjoy the silvery spikes of this flower by night, when its fragrance, although made heavier by the dew, spreads through the open air and is min- gled with the odors of the other plants by which it is surrounded. There are many other flowers suitable for the moon~ light garden whose names spring at once to mind—the white lupine and white larkspur; the Japanese iris; the [7] GARDEN PORTRAITS many varieties of Campanula, both white and delicate shell-pink; white cornflower, snap-dragon, aster, gla— diolus—these and many others Will suggest themselves, as well as the white cosmos, so desirable an addition to the moon-garden in the early fall. In short, whatever your favorite blossom, it will go hard but you may have a specimen of it in your moon- light garden, for almost every flower has its white va- riety. Do not expect, however, too much of its pres— ence, apart from your own satisfaction, unless it be striking in appearance or sweet—scented. As time goes on and the “long glories of the summer moon” and stars show you hitherto unsuspected beauties in your blossoms, garden friends of long standing will become dearer and you will learn to admire others, to which you were once indifferent. And at last you will come to care as much for your night garden as you do for your day-time one, and perhaps—who knowsl—you may some day turn all your flower beds into combina- tions which will give you pleasure during the starlight summer nights, and which will be a veritable fairyland of beauty on the occasions when you see them glim- mering beneath the moon. [8] HERE 1'; 7m mom (flank/5 [Fllfl‘fl/ poi/1t (1/1011! w/zzk/z t/zr flower; may gzzt/m‘ 1/1/17; [be warm- gm‘z/m, w/yirlz (It/(l; (171011?” 50/ [0 l/Zt’J’t’ ofmon' ordirmry type éy in dim/11y aft/M /1'/1'w w/uk/J flaat upon it; mrfave CHAPTER II THE WATER GARDEN HERE is no sort of garden more delightful than the water garden, and none which, con- trary to the general opinion, is so easy to make or maintain. For those who have a natural pond, or a brook from which a pond may be made, at their dis- posal, this is obvious; but under no circumstances is it difficult for the lover of water lilies to gratify his tastes, and from no other form of gardening is it pos- sible to obtain such rapid and profitable returns. For those who must construct their water gardens from the beginning, various courses are open. If a large pond be desired, it is possible to excavate the re- quired size to a depth of about two feet, and then to turn cattle into the space so formed. If the soil be of stiff clay, in a few months a bottom sufficiently hard to hold water will be obtained. If a smaller pond be desired, it should be dug to a. depth of a little over two feet, the sides slanting out as they approach the top, and the bottom paved in stones. A rough mould, which will run parallel to the [9] GARDEN PORTRAITS sides of the hole, but six or eight inches from them, is then built of boards. Chicken wire should be in— serted in the space between the earth walls and the mould, and the space filled with concrete. This work requires no technical skill, and can be done by practi- cally any “Italian-by—the-day.” The bottom of the pool should also, of course, be covered with concrete, the stones here acting as reinforcement. Goncreite which is not reinforced, or which is less than six or eight inches in thickness, cannot be relied upon to stand the frost of our northern latitudes. In making the pool, it is well to provide compart- ments in which to plant the lilies. They may, of course, be planted in soil spread loose upon the bottom, but this method is less desirable, especially in small water gardens, on account of the tendency of the plants to spread. It also makes the cleaning of the pool more difficult. Wooden boxes may be used instead of con- crete or stone compartments, but they make a rather ungainly appearance. In cleaning the pool, however, they have the advantage that it is possible to move them about. And when the lily pads have begun to spread, as they do in a wonderfully short time, neither boxes nor compartments will be visible. The average water lily requires about ten cubic feet of soil. A box or compartment, therefore, should be about three feet square and one foot deep, and its top [10] TH E WATER GARDEN should be about one foot below the surface of the water. Fill it with earth which has been thoroughly enriched—about one part of well-rotted manure to three parts of heavy rich earth or humus. Mud from an old pond, or leaf mould, will not be found to give such good results as this combination. It is, of course, also possible to make a small water garden, from which much pleasure may be had, from several tubs sunk in the earth, the divisions between them being hidden by water plants. Generally, how- ever, the water-lily enthusiast soon wearies of the limitations imposed by gardening on so contracted a scale, and either gives up aquatic plants altogether, or “which is more probable—turns to some more elabo- rate arrangement where his plants will show to better advantage. The tub garden may be made very pretty but is a makeshift at best, and when a satisfactory pool is so easy to obtain, the other is not, in my opinion, to be seriously recommended. The best way to secure lilies is to buy the plants of a reliable dealer. It is, however, interesting to try to raise one or two from seed, for one’s own satisfaction if nothing more. Put a few inches of rich earth in the lmiium of a bowl, and cover it with sand. Fill the bowl with tepid water, and when it becomes clear, drop the seed upon the surface of the water. It will sink when wet and sew itself ,naturally. [ 11 ] Wm *fl GARDEN PORTRAITS In a week a little sprout will be seen rising from the earth; in another a leaflet will appear; and during the third week you may expect to see the first tiny pad make its way toward the top of the clear water. If the plants become too crowded, move some to other bowls. If they are sown early in February they will be ready to set out by the middle of May, and by midsummer will delight you with their bloom. The seed of the ten- der varieties should be used for this purpose, especially that of the Nymphaea Zanzibariensis. When the time comes for planting the garden—which should not be until all danger of frost is well over—each plant should be set in the box or compartment provided for it, and the earth entirely covered with white sand. This ensures clear water. The pool should then be filled. Although every water gardener will warn you of the danger of chilling the lilies by placing them in too cold water, my experience is that, if a warm day be selected and a garden hose of moderate size be used, the growth of the plants will not be interfered with to any appreciable extent. But do not set them out too early. The plants put in, your work in the water garden is at an end. You need only visit it each day and see what new surprises it has in store for you. It needs no weeding, no cultivation, no care. And there is a fascination in seeing each bud, as it is formed, rise up— [ 12 l THE WATER GARDEN ward through the water, and each faded blossom sink back into the depths again, in seeing the actual “work- ing” of the lily plants. Lilies, as has been said before, require stagnant, or nearly stagnant, water. This must be taken into con- sideration in planting them in a natural pond, or in one formed from, a running brook. It does not, how— ever, mcan that the water must become covered with algae, or serve as a breeding place for mosquitoes. The presence of a few goldfish will always keep it clean and fresh. The lonely two that you first put in—two goldfish are enough to start with in any pond, unless it be a very large one—Will evidently have never seen anything larger than a bowl before you pour them into your garden out of a tin pail, and will be obviously greatly taken aback at first, as they cautiously explore the recesses of the pool side by side, darting back at every unexpected sight or sound. In a few days, how— ever, they will come up for crumbs as quickly, and re— tire to the depths as cheerfully, as if they had lived there all their lives. And before summer is over, wher- ever you peer through the lily pads, you are sure to catch sight of some of their numerous descendants. Tender water lilies are usually considered superior to hardy ones for cultivation. They are larger, more quickly growing, and on account of their habit of growth, the flowers rising on stout stems well out of the [13] GARDEN PORTRAITS water instead of lying flat upon it, are preferable for cutting. Of them there are two varieties, the day and the night blooming. On the other hand, Without skilled assistance it is almost impossible for the amateur to carry them through the winter. In my experience the hardy varieties are perfectly satisfactory. They are beautiful, and quite rapid enough of growth for any pool which is not very large. They do not harrow the feelings of the lily enthusiast by dying each year at the touch of frost. If their roots be not actually frozen—which can always be avoided by deep planting—they withstand any ordinary con- ditions. The hybrid varieties are easier to care for than the tuberous and the adorata, which are strong growers and require watching lest they crowd the others. None of the hardy lilies bloom at night. These lilies are to be had in all colors save blue, and it is well to secure this color by the purchase, each year, of the tender N ymph‘aea Pennsylvania. This is a very fine shade of blue, and a strong and rapid grower. It establishes itself quickly, blooming profusely and at once, until the weather becomes cold. One plant in a small pool by itself, is a joy to the eyes all sum~ mer. Mrs. Edwards Whitaker is another lovely blue ten- der nymphaea. The flower is borne on a stem a feet above the water, and often attains a growth of thirteen [14] THE WATER GARDEN inches in diameter. It remains open all day and is very fragrant. The Nymphaea Capensis and the N ymphaea Zanzi- bcm'ens'is are other good blue lilies belonging to this class. The flowers of both are some six inches across. The Z aneibariensis may also be had in pink. The night blooming nymphaeas have received detailed attention in another chapter, but a few words may here be said once again regarding their habits and a few of the best varieties. They open in the evening and do not close until the day is bright. Nothing is more beautiful by night than a white lily, and of these the (lentaia- superba is one of the finest. There are, too, some very lovely red and pink varieties, among which the old and well known rubm rosea (red) and the rose pink Bissetti are worthy of especial mention. Among the hardy nymphaeas the Eugenia De Land (odorata) is one of the best, with its great floating flowers of deep pink, while the blossoms of Paul Hariot, which, originally yellow, turn to pink as they grow older, almost produce the effect of blossoms of three mli'n‘sm—yellow, pink and shaded—growing from one plant. The marliacea chromatella is one of the fine yellow lilies, with its stamens of dazzling orange; while the «marliacca rosea is an equally striking flower of“ bright rose. For the sparkling whiteness which cannot be surpassed, although from habit we are apt [15] J” "I GARDEN PORTRAITS to consider it inferior to the more uncommon pinks and blues, comes the marliacea albida or—Which can really hardly be improved upon—the adorata variety of our native lakes. The free-blooming Robinsoni and the beautiful shell-pink William Doogue are also good. The real glory of the water garden, however, is not the lilies, perfect though they are, but the N elumbium or lotus. It is impossible to say too much in praise of these flowers. They are perfectly hardy, like the hardy lilies, if the roots be not frozen. They require very rich soil, but beyond that no care. The large leaves, which stand several feet out of water, are a dull pale green in color, and upon them drops of water roll about like globules of mercury. The enormous blos- soms, which are borne upon stems sometimes four feet high, are pink or white in color, with an extraordinary yellow seed pod in the center. The Osiris and the speciosum are good pink varieties, While the album gmndiflorum is an excellent white. There are also some double varieties, notably the Pekine'ns'is rubrum plenum. The Victoria regia, though interesting, is not adapted to the average water garden. The enormous size of its leaves makes it impossible of culture save in very large ponds, and even where space is available, unless the summer he very hot, it is possible to care for [16] TH E' WATER GARDEN it tenderly without the reward of a single bloom. It is, of course, not hardy. Of other plants suitable for the water garden or its vicinity, there are still a. few of which mention should be made. The Eichhomia crassipes major (water hyacinth) floats upon the surface of the water and does not root in the soil. The blossom is lavender and in form somewhat reminiscent of the ordinary hya- cinth. One or two of these plants are sufficient, as they multiply so rapidly that they tend to become a nuisance. Three plants were once put, in May, into a pool about eight feet by sixteen. In September I pulled out enough of them to make a heap some two feet in height and three feet in diameter—and left an abundance in the pool. The plants are rather deco— rative, however, if one can harden one’s heart and take them out ruthlessly. The water poppy (Limnocharis Humboldtii) is an attractive little plant, the bloom of which somewhat resembles that of the California poppy. The Myriophyllum proserpinacoides (parrot’s feather) is a very luxuriant growth covered with masses of feathery foliage. In the case of a water garden composed of sunken tubs, this plant is useful in hiding the unsightly rims of the tubs. It is a pro- lific grower. In connection with the pool, the different varieties [17] GARDEN PORTRAITS of iris are pretty and appropriate, as well as our own Wild cardinal flower (Labellia, cardinalis) . The Cyperus papyrus, which sometimes reaches a height of eight feet, is also worthy of mention. The hardy bamboos, which reach a considerable height and which, in addi- tion to their decorative qualities, make a pleasant sound as their branches rub together in the wind, are valu- able from an ornamental point of View, and act as a windbreak. The hardy grasses, such as the Ammdo donax (Giant reed) and the Erianthus ravennae (Pam- pas grass) should not be forgotten, while a space should certainly be saved for the hibiscus or giant rose mal- low, which brightens our country marshes in August and which well repays cultivation. It may be advisable, for the benefit of those who have neither time, room nor inclination for a large water garden, to suggest the possibilities offered by one of small size. As has been said already, one de- voted to the growth of some fine tender variety alone is effective and unusual. A small pool will not be too small for so large a plant, since, if tender, it will, in its one season, not grow beyond its compass. The same may be said for the night—blooming lilies, several of which may be accommodated in a small pool with ease—three, for example, finding satisfactory accom- modation in a triangular pool each side of which meas- ures ten feet. Especially good for this use, however, [ 18 l THE WATER GARDEN are the somewhat expensive—but not prohibitively so ——“dwarf varieties,” the Nymphcea pygmcea, which may be had in white or yellow, and is the smallest lily grown, and perfect in its miniature. The blooms are from one and a half to two inches across, with pads proportionately small; and the effect which is pro- duced by them is exceptionally charming. The con- struction of the small pool, of course, differs in no way from that of its larger brother. Apart from the Nymphcea pygmoea, which is espe- cially adapted to the small water garden, there are other varieties which make a good showing in a small pool or even in a tub. Among the hardy varieties of these is the Andrecma, in red and yellow; the laydekeri lila-cea or purpurea in lilac or crimson; the marliacea albida, cameo, chromatella and rosea—white, pale pink, yellow or rose—which latter though exquisite, are strong growers, and, in the course of a year or two will certainly require moving to larger quarters. Among the tender lilies where, as has been said, the problem of strong growth is less important to the owner of a little garden, the Jubilee is white and highly to be recommended among night bloomers, as is K ew- ensis in pale pink. The day-blooming varieties afford many possibilities in small-garden culture, notably the Panama Pacific in a rich and unusual shade of red, the Zanzibariensis 1‘0860—8. really lovely variety—the L19] GARDEN PORTRAITS pale blue Daubemcma with its enormous and numerous blooms, and the Mrs. Woodrow Wilson, a stronger- growing and freer-flowering hybrid of the Daubeniana. Wintering? If your pond be natural, plant deep and do no more. If it be artificial, do not empty it. It should be covered over with a double platform of boards, over which is spread a load of stable litter. In spring, when all danger of frost is passed, this covering should be removed and the pool emptied and thor- oughly cleaned. The water which comes from it will, diluted, make excellent manure water for your roses. For this reason I have not thought it necessary, as do some other water gardeners, to suggest plans for an elaborate system of drawing off the water of the pond, and for filling it again. Every gardener knows the value of manure water, and here, each spring, is as much as you can use of this excellent fertilizer ready to hand. It can be bailed out in pails, the pool cleaned, and fresh water put in by the hose, with little trouble, and with the additional advantage of less original trouble in the building of the pool. The water garden, by the way, will be found to keep perfectly sweet and fresh, and the flowers to bloom better, because undis- turbed, if the pool be cleaned but once a year. And when the garden has filled again, you need only wait for a little to enjoy it for another summer. [90] Gardm H E fizz/[1r 1'71 tbz’ rad’gflrde/I y/Iozz/d, MT 'z/z’r/m/z/r [WP/1117 trai/J, fix/low l/zz’ //'//r 7/ but I'I‘J/fftlllff, w/zi/z? I/zzi gun/HI inr/fJ/zou/I/ by givm a; fizr 1U pom/Hy (I ”Nina/11M fl/pifle [oz/four CHAPTER III THE ROCK GARDEN HE rock garden, which has been for many years the standby of English flower lovers, has found its way into America. I do not mean by this the “rockery” which has for many years defaced the as— pect of suburban yards, with its pile of jagged stones supporting a formal salad of red cannas, salvia and “foliage plants.” The rock garden, properly speak- ing, need not be large, often finding its boundaries in a dry wall or even in a path; but as far as it goes it is a tiny corner of the Alps, all a-bloom with Alpine flowers and sparkling with every color of the rainbow. For the success of the Alpine garden Alpine condi- tions must, of course, be provided. The first requisite of this is good drainage. This may be secured by skil- ful placing or, if a well-drained position be not avail- able, the space intended for the garden should be dug out to a depth of about three feet and filled in with old rubble or stones.' Upon this the garden is made. Laying out the Alpine garden is a task worthy the skill of a landscape gardener, although with taste and [ 31 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS pains there is no reason why any garden lover cannot accomplish it with success. Often one sees rock gar— dens which have evidently been made by the simple process of throwing all the old stones, bricks and rub- bish procurable upon a desired spot, and covering the pile with plants. It need hardly be said that the result of such a method is sure to be unsatisfactory. In spite of the apparently careless arrangement of the rock garden—for of all gardens the rock garden is the least formal in appearance—the laying of every stone is a matter for care, and as in everything else worth hav— ing, the amount of care expended in preparation will show in the finished product. After the site of the garden has been selected and prepared, the earth should be piled solidly about in hilloeks and slopes of varying height. In a general way the land to be used should be given an Alpine contour in miniature. Then about the hilloeks stones should be piled, as large as can conveniently be handled. Re- member that the stones themselves have no nutritive property, as far as the plants are concerned. They hold moisture in the soil, and the crevices between them, which as time goes on are constantly filled with more earth and with the mould of decaying plants, form moisture-holding pots of rich earth. To this the plants in their native state are accustomed. Natural conditions should be kept closely in mind during the [22 ] .jii‘ THE ROCK GARDEN building of the Alpine garden, and should be conformed to as nearly as possible. For this reason it is well to use rock of a porous texture if it can be had. In the absence of this, rock of any kind will serve to hold the moisture of the ground to some extent. Too much should not be used. The garden should be at a distance from large trees—— both for the esthetic reason that trees are not usually found at the altitude of real Alpine gardens, and for the practical one that their roots absorb much of the moisture from the soil. The rocks should be embedded in the earth about a quarter of their height. It is well to give them all a slant in the same direction to imi— tate natural stratification. Earth should be filled in behind these rocks, and in this the seeds are planted. Any appearance of a series of terraces should be avoided, and the Whole be given, as far as possible, a natural rather than an artificial look. This will be obtained by the building of a series of pockets at irregular distances rather than of a for‘ mal terrace. In continuation of this same idea, if a border of rocks be used—as, for example, in edging a path— while the stones should be set close together so that no earth may wash out between them, they Will give the best effect if set irregularly. The path itself should be irregular in Width, and its course, like that of any [23] GARDEN PORTRAITS natural trail, should follow the “line of least resist- ance.” The formal water garden which is sometimes seen in Alpine gardens is inappropriate, aside from the obvious absurdity of growing the average water plants among Alpine surroundings. If water is to be used as a feature of the garden a series of little pools may be made, which in shape and contour give the effect of an Alpine brook. Very pretty results may be had from this method of handling the problem, and if carefully done, a deep pool may be introduced effec- tively. It should, however, be irregular in outline and rough in its formation. The crevices between the rocks and the cracks in them, should these be large enough to plant, must now be filled with earth. For this purpose, and for all filling-in where Alpine flowers are to be planted, a mixture of loam, leaf mould, manure and chips of stone has been found to produce the best results. It should be tamped down into the crevices, and after the first rain has fallen the garden should be gone over and any places needing it filled and tamped over again. It is, of course, most important that each pocket be filled be— yond the possibility of a wash-out, and that no cavity remain Where roots, stretching out, will lack for food. The principle cannot be too often or too strongly laid down that ample flower-space should be provided [24] . THE ROCK GARDEN among the rocks. The Waterloo of the average Alpine gardener is his insistence upon a preponderance of stonework. It should never be forgotten that the stones are only a means to the end of an eflective display of Alpine plants. It is they, and not the stones, which are the feature of the garden. There are other varieties of the rock garden which should be mentioned. First of these comes the dry- wall garden. If you have a bank wall, you may, by covering it with Alpine plants, make it a constant pleasure to the eye. It is almost worth While to provide one for the sake of the sheer beauty with which it will greet you every day. A wall is built—preferably a bank wall, as I have said—loosely, to imitate an old wall, which in falling away has opened crevices where flowers may find lodgment. Plant Alpine flowers upon it, as in the crevices of the rock garden. The general rules for an Alpine garden are applicable here, but the pockets between the stones should point downward (which may easily be managed by careful laying of the wall) and the face of the wall should slope backward as it rises. In this way the smallest shower will be sure to benefit the plants, and their roots will be as- sured of ample nourishment. The “walk garden” is hardly worthy of the name of garden at all, but may be mentioned as a charming in- novation which is likely to tempt its owner to a wider [ 25] GARDEN PORTRAITS acquaintance with Alpine plants. It is a variant of the walk of broken flagging, through the cracks of which peeps grass, which is becoming so popular in this country. The English variant of this quaint idea is as yet unfortunately little known here. It consists in placing Alpine plants between the stones, which makes the walk, to be sure, a little less practicable for walking, but a joy to the eye and a real addition to the garden. I remember the first of these walks which I ever saw, upon which I was taken one moonlight night to View the gardens of an old English country house. For a while I stumbled over tufts of foliage and wondered, irritably, Why the gardeners did not weed the walks; but next morning, when I peered through the little leaded Elizabethan windows of my room at that same walk, what was my surprise to find the “weeds” of the night before an actual wilderness of pink and yellow and purple blossoms, which in their brilliancy and variety reminded me of nothing as much as a handful of jewels sparkling on the grass! The plants for the Alpine garden are for the most part hardy perennials and run the gamut of color. And now, the preparatory work completed, the gar— dener’s thoughts may turn to them in detail, and plant the lovely luxuriant things to his heart’s content. For yellow, the bushy Alyssum samtvile compactum [26] THE ROCK GARDEN will give a touch of sunlight in a shady spot, the Oeno- them (evening primrose) in yellow and white, the infi- nite shading of the Iceland poppies, the delicate annual Erysimuim (Fairy wallflower) which is so like its more sturdy namesake, and the bright golden yellow Pri- mula, or English cowslip, will make your rock garden gay. The Arabis Alpimz, which resembles a snowdrift, so completely is it covered by its white flowers in the early spring, thrives in the shade, and should be in every Alpine garden. The tiny sea-pinks (Armeria maritima) will cover bare slopes with a mass of deep pink in May and June, and will grow on the steepest incline. The columbines here and there make a brave show- ing; and the Alpine garden would be indeed incomplete without the edelweiss—the national flower of Switzer- land—which combines the properties of being both graceful and everlasting. The Aubretias, in various shades of blue and violet, are almost dazzling in their profusion and color; mention should especially be made of the variety known as Dr. Mules. Saxifrage, which grows in stout clumps or tufts, gives another variety of purple shade, and still another is furnished by the Phlox sublata, which may be depended upon to cover stonework gracefully and to keep it in its proper sub- servience to the flowers of the Alpine garden. For those who care for blue flowers, the plumbago [ 27] F mzm Ilr tafbrm a part :37“ ”If roL‘K‘ gran/m 1'1‘ .\'/10/(/:/ //1' 1'21 (1 writ; affine/5, rmwz/x/i/zg a ”IUIIIII‘d/ll M0013 and ”of f/n‘ rwzcwn‘iwm/ 1500/. 1/1 JIM/I (1 .rpat may /1:‘ grow/1, //z‘.v/}/r‘_r /1'//}:v, mam main/(27‘ Ari/lg p/zzm‘x CHAPTER IV THE WILD FLOWER GARDEN S we walk through the country lanes in their autumn glory, beside which the beauties of our failing gardens fade into insignificance, who of us has not felt a wish to transport some part of their loveli- ness nearer home so that it might be more often and more easily enjoyed? Indeed the wish, which may seem born of indolence to us and to our neighbors, would be thought well worthy of accomplishment to those less sated with the charms of our summer fields than we. The wild flowers of one part of the world are the garden flowers of another; and the English- man and Frenchman cultivate our goldenrod and pur- ple asters as assiduously as do we the poppy of Flan- ders fields, the daffodil of England, or the counterpart of the mourning bride which borders the country roads of France in midsummer. Let us not be superior to the beauty which lies nearest, and let us, too, save a corner ‘of our gardens in which the glory of American fields and forests may be cultivated, and if possible made [291 GARDEN PORTRAITS lovelier by the care and cultivation under which all flowers must show some improvement. Another advantageous use may be made of the wild flower garden—to brighten a spot to which little care can be given. Perhaps you have an old homestead, or a summer camp, which is only occupied for a short time every summer, yet which, in the few weeks of its occupancy, you long to see embowered in blossoms, with the aspect of care and of beauty which only flow- ers can give. In such a case a bed of wild flowers, once set, will go on almost forever. They are, in their native state, a practical example of the survival of the fittest; they are the result of ages of neglect, and of struggles with adverse conditions, where they have been forced to hold their own against stalwart weeds of every kind, unprotected from winter frost and snow. Used to such surroundings, therefore, what can be more sure to succeed than a garden where such flowers predomi- nate“! And when a little care and cultivation are awarded them, the splendid extent of their display will be found to more than repay any trouble which may have been expended on them. The wild flower bed, when it is part of a formal garden, should be separate from the rest and should under no circumstances share in its prim hedges and straight out paths. Here is an opportunity for one of the “nooks” beloved of landscape gardeners. Let this [30] THE WILD FLOWER GARDEN nook be so placed that it may have a background of the woods if possible; let a winding rustic walk lead up to it, and let no civilizing note creep in. If you are for- tunate enough to have a brook or pool in your domain, this may be made a central feature upon which to work, set deep in banks of wild forget-me-not and cowslip, touched here and there with great masses of the cardi- nal flower, and marked out by touches of purple fringed orchis and yellow loosestrife. At the back of the pic— ture, marking the separation of the garden from the woods, the heavy leaves and great pink heads of the Joe Pye weed make a striking and effective screen some eight feet high. Water is so valuable a feature of a wild garden that, if none be ready to hand, it may be well to have recourse to artificial means to secure it. The likeness of a brook may easily be obtained by the laying out of a little waterway in the form of a series of pools, interspersed with rocks and hummocks for the appearance of greater “reality,” lined with cement and filled by means of the garden hose. To be sure, the result will be, unlike the real brook, stagnant, but if carefully done, the bottom covered with white sand and a few gold fish introduced here and there, this will be found not to detract from the effect. As a brook of this kind will not provide wet ground near by, in which to set out moisture-loving plants, concrete com- partments should be built, connecting with the water [31] GARDEN PORTRAITS in such a way that, when filled with earth, such plants may be grown in them and never lack wet soil. The openings which connect these compartments with the brook should be small and covered with coarse wire netting so that, while water may penetrate them, the earth may not wash out. The clumsy outline which they will at first produce will soon be concealed by the growth of the plants after they are filled; while any slight muddiness in the water may be prevented by a sprinkling of sand over the earth. The building of a pool is, of course, a simpler matter, and here, too, con- necting compartments should be left for semi-aquatic plants. In this, as in the brook, irregularity and ab- sence of formality must be the gardener’s aim. Lilies, if they be introduced, should be of the wild varieties, or at least should not differ too Widely from them, nor is there here a place for the lotus, nor for any distinc- tively tropical plant, lovely though it be. Here, perhaps, mention may be made of the treat- ment of the wild garden, as differentiated from that of the native garden. The latter is composed of blos- soms which are found wild in the part of the country in which the garden itself is located. They need not, however, be grown as they grow in their native state. There is no reason why the native garden should not be set out as formally as any other, for the mere geo- graphical origin of the species to which any plant be- [ 33 l THE W'ILD FLOWER GARDEN longs does not, obviously, unfit it for making, let us say, a part of a geometrical design. The wild garden, however, is a difierent matter. Here flowers are set out among natural surroundings to produce a certain effect, as, in a rock garden, plants which would thrive successfully apart from rocks are set out among them. Therefore, in the wild garden, the presence of native flowers exclusively is not to be insisted upon too rigor- ously. Any dainty, graceful bloom which is not too obviously unsuited to natural treatment may well be added to it, thus increasing the beauty of the tiny wilderness of which it forms a part. If a wood be not available as a background to the wild garden, a wall may be successfully used for the same purpose. Not a carefully laid wall, or even a dry wall, gay with many~colored blossoms, but an old, moss- grown mass of field stones, if you are fortunate enough to boast one. Let it be covered with woodbine, with clematis paniculata, with the ground nut, Whose in- conspicuous crimson-and—pink frilled blossoms send forth so delicious a perfume in the early fall. The poison ivy, too, perhaps the most beautiful of our native vines, with its great glossy leaves of deep green, may also be used for this purpose, if it be set safely away from the passing touch of careless fingers. Let a peeping boulder be left here and there to show upon what the vines are massed; and before this as a back- [ 33] GARDEN PORTRAITS ground set your tall sheaves of elecampane, of mul- lein, of fireweed and milkweed, and once again, of that aristocrat of Nature, the gorgeous giant Joe Pye weed. Beneath these set a flash of red of the field lilies, the drooping yellow bells of the Canadian ones, the great blue vervain, the meadowsweet, the hardhack, or the blackeyed Susan. In short, of the flowers suitable for the wild garden there is no end. The “ordinary garden” flowers which are included with them must, of course, be left largely to the taste and judgment of the individual gardener; but the native blooms, which form, in large measure, the backbone of the wild garden, may be procured with equal ease. Many nurserymen now specialize in seeds and plants of native flowers of named varieties, and to buy directly from them is a method preferable, either to the doubtful outcome of “wildflower mixture”—for what flower enthusiast does not prefer to know his flowers by name ?—or to the old~fashioned way of start- ing out, trowel in hand, along the country roads, to dig up incontinently any plant which may strike the passing fancy. The reasons for this are manifold. First of all, the grower grows with transplanting in view; he ships at the proper season, and in many cases replaces loss, so that the risk of the gardener is reduced to a minimum. He indicates the proper conditions under which plants [34] THE WILD FLOWER GARDEN should be cultivated in order to produce the best re- sults. To be sure, Wild flowers are hardy, and will bear considerable rough treatment uncomplainingly; but they grow where they can, in many cases, not where they thrive best; and the trowel-armed amateur too often goes to considerable trouble to duplicate cer- tain conditions in which he found a certain plant, only to find, later, that the same plant did far better in the garden of a friend, under surroundings diametrically the opposite. Then, too, he who selects his flowers by the wayside transplants them while in bloom—the time when such treatment is especially dangerous. His garden is apt to become a collection of flowers which bloom only at the time of his wanderings—for few of us are so fortunate as to be able to extend our ex- cursions through the entire summer. Again, there are wild flowers which prefer poor soil, and which are killed with kindness. So, in every way, from the stand- point of both flowers and of garden, it is best to pur- chase one ’s native stock, and to resign oneself to the loss of the delightful summer strolls when you picture yourself setting forth to conquer, basket in hand and the cool breeze blowing in your face, and to substitute the hardly less fascinating pursuit, to many a gar- dener, of the study of catalogues, by the open fire, 0’ winter evenings. Another very real objection to the collecting of wild [35] GARDEN PORTRAITS flowers by the amateur is the serious harm which has been done to our native plants by an indiscriminate gathering of them along the countryside. Whether the root be pulled up carelessly or whether efforts be made to plant the flower elsewhere—often as has been said, at a time or under conditions which make success almost impossible and which, if the collector be de- termined, results in the destruction of more plants later on—some of our most beautiful plants are, by this means, in danger of total extinction. A striking in- stance of this is that of the mayflower, or the trailing arbutus, as it is often incorrectly called, which is be- coming almost exterminated in some localities because of the promiscuous gathering of it which has taken place. . Another pleasure of the garden in which Wild flow- ers predominate is the exchanging of varieties with friends at a distance. Perhaps in their own gardens they are cultivating some of their own native plants; perhaps in the absence of more elaborate garden facili— ties they have tried to content themselves with a more thorough knowledge of the inhabitants of their home woods and fields. By exchanging bits of garden lore With them one may often unearth a variety of plant which is superior to that with which he is acquainted. For instance, the feathery pale purple aster of New England, or even [36] THE WILD FLOWER GARDEN the deep purple one, whose tiny center is filled with a mass of yellow and purple stamens which recall nothq ing to the feminine mind as vividly as “French knots,” and which are sold commonly as perennial aster, both here and abroad, are far inferior to the less grown but more showy large purple aster with a great yellow center, so common in southern New York and in New Jersey. In England the variety of goldenrod most commonly seen in cultivation is the straight spiky va- riety which recalls the stiff and characterless silver rod; while the spreading sort, reminiscent of the Amer- ican elm in shape, is not seen at all. Among the conflicting claims of different flowers, he who cares to pick and choose may select the superior varieties and cast the rest into outer darkness. Among other flowers which will especially plead for admission into the wild flower garden, a few are partic— ularly worthy of mention. The wild columbine, in red and yellow, is full of airy grace; while the various varieties of wild phlox—especially the Phlox sublata, a lovely shade of deep rose—seem to thrive in the worst soil and the fiercest drought. Sweet Mary, or M anarda ditty/ma, a garden standby, is also a Wild flower, while its twin brother, the purple bergamot, grows rapidly, blooms freely, and is, I can testify from experience, practically indestructible. The yellow dog-tooth violet will cover your beds with a creamy carpet in, the {37] GARDEN PORTRAITS spring; the mountain laurel which covers the hills of Connecticut with a rosy snow in June, the brilliant hues of the rhodOdendron, the crimson glow of the sumac, the delicacy of the elderblow—but why enumer- ate further? The fields are full of these and of others as alluring, to possess which it is only necessary to walk abroad through Nature’s nursery, and then to return and place your favorites in the seedsman’s cata- logue. Under no circumstances, again, should the “wild garden” be formal. Massing should be its aim, like that of the impressionist artist, .who throws great sweeps of color on his canvas. And in stray corners where delicacy is desired, what can surpass a bit of woodland, blue with hepaticas in spring, sweet with hidden mayfiowers, and later gorgeous with the blooms of the showy ladies’ slipper? But to set ladies’ slip- pers down either side of a garden walk, or to border a gravel path with hepaticas, is to force the little wood- land maiden into the paint and tawdry finery of the provincial town, and to attempt with only moderate success an effect which other blossoms, better suited to the purpose because of their very solidity and lack of daintiness, might do as well. For environment is a force to reckon with, in our flowers’ lives no less than in our own; and nowhere is it felt more than is the case in dealing with the intangible charm of the wild garden. [38] ‘1 [EC/[USE of t/u‘z'r xxm‘f/I/‘g' fill/xiii, 1/1! im/ rim/l; 7017/ /u‘ a/fif/z/Wl/ fly p/zu/t/flg l'lsz‘J’ :z// Mgn‘f/u‘r, Inf/10‘ l/mzl /I('7‘/‘ (1211/ f/n‘n‘. 7712‘ row gun/NI cc'/'// /22’, fl] INN/Ill, (I f/Izrvfizz'zjv/azld, (tr/NW— lz/Zv [fix 2'; (WK/01H! //_v Hm‘ roc't‘rn/ fwd/J 11/21/ Irv/film; CHAPTER V THE COURT OF THE QUEEN or FLOWERS HO does not remember the picture of “A Yard of Roses” which, some years ago, hung in the window of every picture store? Beautiful great blos- soms, red, yellow, white and pink; held entranced the generation of youngsters who flattened their little noses in speechless admiration against the panes be- hind which the picture was displayed. I think that the yard referred to was the yard of measure; but nowa~ days we who admired the painted roses in childhood have found it possible to realize the wonder of our childish dreams and to have a real yard (so much larger and better than the pictured one!) filled as compactly with blossoms which delight our eye as much as did the pictured one of former days! For the rose garden is one of the easiest varieties of garden from which to secure results. Its prepara- tion requires time and care, though no great expendi- ture of either; and once made it will practically, like the brook, “go on forever.” The preparation of the beds is the chief labor which [39] GARDEN PORTRAITS confronts the maker of the rose garden. Roses require good drainage; they must not stand in water. On the other hand, they must have a certain amount of moist- ure. To obtain the best results, the beds where the flowers are to be planted should be dug out to a depth of about thirty inches. The ditch thus formed should be filled to the depth of six inches with small stones. This will ensure good drainage. Upon this foundation place a layer of leaf mould, one of the earth removed in making the trench, and one of well-rotted cow manure. These three layers should be well forked together, and the same process then repeated—mould, subsoil and manure—until the bed is full. If the subsoil be very sandy, it should be mixed with a little clay, which will help it to retain moisture. If cow manure is not avail- able, horse manure may be used with almost equally good results. The next step is to secure your roses. This is best done in the spring while the plants are still dormant, but it is possible to put in bushes after they are in leaf. They will, however, require closer watching, and will not give such good results the first year. Good bushes may be secured from any reliable seedsman. In many large cities there are also auction rooms, where plants are to be had at exceedingly low rates, and where many florists are said to purchase their supplies. The stock sold by such houses is almost invariably sturdy, and [40] THE QUEEN OF FLOWERS the saving in cost well worth while, especially when the rose enthusiast is anxious to secure a large num- ber of plants. In such places it is usually necessary to purchase ten or a dozen plants of the same variety, or to take a selected “collection.” These collections are generally well chosen, but if some special variety be desired two or more enthusiasts can well divide the plants and the expense. So substantial a saving is ef- fected that one may, without undue extravagance, allow oneself a few extra flowers. The advertisements which offer a large number of plants for a very small sum should be avoided. Some reliable houses may make such glittering offers, but in general an order results in a quantity of tiny plants which struggle along for a short time, dying ignominiously one by one, how- ever much care may be lavished upon them. The rose garden may be simply a corner of the gar- den set apart for roses, or it may be entirely separate, and walled or fenced off from the other flowers. This wall or fence may contribute largely to the beauty of the rose garden itself by training climbing roses upon it until it is a mass of bloom and color. In selecting roses those belonging to the group known as hybrid tea are by far the most desirable. They are very hardy and bloom during the entire summer. The hybrid perpetuals bloom only during June, though by vigorous pruning they may be induced to send out a [41 l ._....A.,(_‘_ ~ ‘- ~—- #4 -_. .u .- - K. ”Tm-task \. GARDEN PORTRAITS second crop of blossoms in September. Tea roses are far more difficult to winter and for that reason are less highly to be recommended. The best white rose among the hybrid teas is probably the Kaiserin Auguste Victoria, frequently known since the war as Edith Cavell. It is a beautiful cream white blossom, deliciously scented. Its only rival among the white roses is the Frau Karl Druschki, a hybrid per— petual, which has been similarly re-christened “Snow Queen,” and which bears flowers of enormous size. The creamy Gloire Lyonnaise also should find a. place in every garden. One of the best pink roses is the Jonkheer J. L. Mock. It is a beautiful deep pink, the inner petals of which are covered with a silvery sheen. The shape is that of the “hothouse” rose, and it is a free bloomer, delighting its owner by its blossoms during the entire summer. The Killarney Queen and Killarney Brilliant are different varieties of the Killarney rose, too well- known to need description here; while the almost dazzling brilliance of the Radiance deserves special mention. The Columbia, while less striking, is a charming and free-blooming flower. ~Mrs. John Laing and Mrs. R. G. Sharman—Crawford, hybrid perpetuals, are exceedingly popular, but their shape is not so graceful as that of the roses I have mentioned, and they are upon the whole less pleasing. [42 l THE QUEEN OF FLOWERS A rose which somewhat resembles them in a general way is the more satisfactory hybrid tea, Caroline Test- out. I have seen a garden, the paths of which were entirely bordered by this rose, which was a lovely sight. Among the red roses one’s first thought naturally turns to that old and tried favorite, the hybrid per- petual General Jacqueminot. Small though he is his color, shape and perfume have kept him in the van for a longer time than generally falls to the lot of a rose in these days of hybridizing and improving. Among the hybrid perpetuals may also be mentioned the cherry-colored Ulrich Brunner and the sturdy Magna Charta. J. B. Clark also rejoices the heart of his owner by the abundance of his bloom. He requires a corner to himself, however, for in a marvelously short time he outgrows the bounds which have been assigned him, and threatens to occupy the entire garden. Among the hybrid teas, the Richmond with its flaming color, the Hoosier Beauty in dark rich crimson, the beautiful and freexflowering Hadley and the indestructible Gruss :m ’l‘eplitz, as strong as it is handsome, are some of the best varieties. Yellow roses are not, in my experience, as sturdy growers as the others, although they may be raised with care, which they abundantly repay. Chief among them, of course, is the “Daily Mail Rose,” Mme. Edou- [43 l GARDEN PORTRAITS ard Heriot. This blossom with its shading of pink and yellow into amber is lovely in the extreme. Mrs. Aaron Ward is another charming blossom, paler in tint. The yellow Ophelia is also well worth growing. While all these plants are hardy, they do not attain‘to the sturdy growth of their red, white and pink sisters, and the bushes incline to be somewhat weak and puny. They live, however, and produce blossoms which are well worth having, which is perhaps all that can rea- sonably be expected of them, in view of their exquisite bloom. Among the tea roses, which stand frankly in need of considerable protection in our northern latitudes, the beautiful Lady Hillingdon is conspicuous. The Ma- man Cochets—pink, White and yellow—also belong to this class, and are a distinct addition to any garden. Among climbing roses the best known is the Crimson Rambler, which naturally brings to mind its improved variety, the Flower of Fairfield. These are of the polyantha variety, consisting of clusters of ex— tremely double blossoms which nearly hide the plant in flowering season. Somewhat resembling them in pink are the Dorothy Perkins and the Lady Gay. These roses require no care whatever, as may be gathered from the fact that some railroads are at present plant- ing them broadcast to cover unsightly railway cuts. They grow rapidly and may be used in a thousand [441 THE 3U EEN 0F FLOWERS ways—to cover arches or arbors, fences or stone walls. A lovely efiect may be obtained by means of an or- dinary iron chain, run loosely through a series of plain iron posts, at the foot of each of which a Lady Gay rose has been planted. If these be trained over the chains, the result will be, during June, a series of fes- toons of a solid mass of exquisite pink, which will be visible at a considerable distance. A somewhat similar effect, although a less delicate one, may be produced by training both red and pink ramblers over an or- dinary wire fence, each post of which is connected with the next by an arch of lead pipe. The combination of crimson and pink blossoms, massed upon fence and arches, is one fairly dazzling to the beholder. Hiawatha and the American Pillar are single pink climbers reminiscent of the wild rose or sweetbrier. They are very effective. Another single climber is the Silver Moon, which bears enormous single white blossoms with deep yellow centers, and is deliciously fragrant. A finely shaped climber is the Dr. W. Van Fleet, a delicate shell-pink. Among the yellows, the delicately tinted Shower of Gold is beautiful and hardy, as is the brighter old-fashioned Persian Yellow, which can hardly be improved upon for strength and eflec— tiveness. The standard, or tree rose, is a charming addition to the garden, but one which requires considerable [45] GARDEN PORTRAITS care. Not only is careful pruning necessary to per- suade the rose tree to retain its globular shape, but the intense heat of midsummer and the frosts of Winter are almost equally harmful to it. It is well, with the ap- proach of hot weather, to provide against it by wrap— ping the stem of the tree in moss, which should be wet from time to time. In winter a triangular casing should be made of three boards, placed side to side, and in this the stem of the rose tree should be enclosed, and the interstices filled with dried leaves. Pruning is one of the most important items in the care of the rose garden, and should be done before the plants come into leaf in the spring. As the sap goes first to the ends of the branches, weak and straggling ones should be those most heavily pruned, lest all the growth go to the end of the shoot and the rest of the stem lack nourishment. Sharp shears should be used and the cuts made diagonally, so that the rain may not lodge in them and rot the plant. Out from half to a quarter of an inch above the bud to which you are to prune. It is best to prune to buds on the outside of the stem rather than to those on the inside, in order to avoid a thick growth of foliage in the middle of the plant. The shape of the bush, it will be found, may be entirely decided by careful pruning. A supplementary pruning will be given with benefit to the plant if the roses, when out, be cut with a long stem. Never, how- [46] THE QUEEN OF FLOWERS ever, if you hope to secure more bloom from any stem during the season, leave less than two eyes at the base of the shoot from which you cut. Hybrid teas and hybrid perpetuals may be heavily pruned, but climbers should be pruned lightly. Poly- anthas should only be thinned out. Tea roses should not receive the heavy pruning which is given to by. brids. No rose should be pruned heavily in its first year. The worst pests to which roses are subject are the green aphis—a soft green insect which attaches itself to the under side of the leaves—and the rose bug. For the former, spraying with tobacco water or whaleoil soap is an effective remedy and should be begun early in the spring (see p. 144) ; for the latter, handpicking into a cup of kerosene. Wood ashes and powdered bonemeal should be worked into the ground about the roses at intervals, while a weak solution of liquid ma- nure—half a bushel of manure to a barrel of water is the proper proportion—may be applied frequently with benefit. A careful lookout should be kept for suckers, or growth from the root on which the stock is grafted; for roses, of course, do not ordinarily grow on their own roots. These growths may be recognized by their thorny stems, and by the seven leaves which they put out in contrast to the grafted stock, which has but five. [47] GARDEN PORTRAITS They sap the vitality of the plant, and should be imme- diately removed. About the middle of November rose bushes should be cut back to a height of about eighteen inches. They should then be hilled up, and some rich earth hoed in about them. If they are covered too early, insects will be attracted to them; so it is well to leave them, after hilling, until the ground freezes. A covering of leaves or some other similar protection should then be placed over the earth about them. It should be removed early in the spring, so that the roses may not start too soon under its protection, and be caught by a late frost. And after the covering is removed, the rose garden owner may await, without further labor, the pleasures which his garden has in store for him—pleasures which increase with each year that is added to its age. [48] 7726 C/yi/drm’s Qam’m HE p/m'fim/{v i/IJr‘J/‘HM— I‘M/1' mJ‘rlxrf/IUII, call/MI 1m lmn/ frmfmmf ~:ci// 1‘17/ or (/I'oIIgI'f (fry/‘2'“, i5 big/1f a 21d _f}','x—flo:tn‘i/1g, (I 11 u’ Aim/{vm/apmi to fllc' gar— zl'm it'll/1'11 ix to &1‘ pm info f/n‘ 1mm]; of rlzr {Xvi/drag who :(‘i// (ix/igl't [/1 if; gay m/o'r, 11 m/ if; [amid/1f «:cm/f/I qf“ How/1 CHAPTER VI THE CHILDREN’S GARDEN WHETHER it is because the little people are closer to nature than their elders, or for some other reason, it is true that every child loves a garden. To be sure his interest sometimes is too apt to take the form of pulling up everything “to see how it is get- ting on,” but even so, the interest is a real one, and there is every reason why it should be encouraged, and why children should not be hindered in following a pursuit which they find no less absorbing than do their parents. Of course the flowers for the children’s garden should be those which do not require too much time to give results, as well as of varieties which will bear considerable hard treatment, if they be neglected from time to time. Also they should be free-blooming, for in this case results are the thing most sought for, and flowers which may be lavishly plucked, not an effective display of plants, are the desideratum. Without turning this chapter into a kindergarten treatise, there is one means by which the garden of this [49] GARDEN PORTRAITS kind may be as little as possible despoiled by the curi- osity which leads every normal intelligent child to de— sire to see “how the wheels go round.” Most of us have experimented with “cotton gardens” in our youth; and some such plan, carried out in connection with the children’s garden, will save the seedlings from destruction, as well as prove instructive to the little owner. The method is a simple one. In a small bowl of water a sheet of cotton should be spread; and upon this, after it is patted down and made thoroughly damp, seeds of the same flowers as those which are to be sown in the outdoors garden should be scattered—only, of course, two or three of a kind. Then if another piece of cotton be spread over them and the bowl put into a warm place, the seeds will sprout and may be ex- amined from time to time. They should be carefully kept moist and wet. By this means seed will not be pulled up in the garden “to see 110w it is getting on,” for its progress may be Viewed at any time by observa- tion of that in the bowl; and even should one or two plantlets be destroyed, their similarity with those un- der observation will prevent such destruction on a large scale. By the time the “cotton garden” seeds have grown large enough to require more nourishment. than they can obtain under the conditions in which they have, so far, been grown, their duplicates outside [50] THE CHILDREN ’8 GARDEN will be above the ground, and their practical useful- ness will be at an end. They may, however, be trans- planted with care into the ordinary garden, where their progress will, of course, follow that of normally grown plants. Of seeds which are to be planted in the children’s garden, annuals especially should be included. There are very few perennials which bloom during their first season, and those which do, do so only at the cost of early planting and nursing, and even under these con- ditions do not flower lavishly. Haste and plenty of bloom, as has been said, are the chief requisites for the children’s garden. And to wait a year for results from perennials is beyond the patience of even the most serious minded of children. So let annuals be the order of the day. Among the first of the blossons to be included should be the nasturtium, which blooms fairly soon from seed, and which combines the advantages of being practi- cally indestructible and of furnishing a gay mass of bright color. For these reasons, too, zinnias especially commend themselves for a foremost place upon the list. Sweet alyssum and candytuft both bloom early—the white variety of the latter is by far the better of the two for this purpose, as it is the more sturdy—and the ageratum grows quickly and will be a mass of bloom, once started, for the entire summer. Balsams are [51 l GARDEN PORTRAITS strong and can stand almost any treatment, while their seed pods are always especially alluring to the little people, because of the delightful way in which they may be made to pop and scatter their contents over the surrounding territory. The verbena is not a good plant for the children’s garden, because of the length of time it takes to germi- nate. Lilies, tulips and other bulb plants are open to the same objection as perennials, since they must be planted the fall before they are to bloom, and since cutting in both cases harms the bulb somewhat, and in the children’s garden they will certainly be cut. Roses, too, are unlikely to thrive under the lack of expert treatment which they will receive, while the poisonous concoctions necessary to keep them at their best render them unfit for a place in the children’s garden. Al- though, as a perennial, it is unsuited to this use, espe— cial warning must here be given again against the pos- sible use of the monkshood here, as the root of this is extremely poisonous. Returning to annuals, mari— golds, both African and French, give a bright dash of color, while the sunflower germinates soon, attracts birds, and may be seen to progress almost indefinitely. Of course annuals which must be started in the house to be brought to bloom in season are inappropriate for the children’s garden. Stock, wallflowers, and other such are therefore taboo, unless one or two be [ 52] THE CHILDREN’S GARDEN bought in pots and set out—a course which will make the children’s garden bright with bloom at once, and which may relieve the tedium of waiting for the ap- pearance of the seed. Should this be done, a bright geranium or a fuchsia or two will be a welcome addi- tion, and by no means should a few pansies be forgot- ten—not the viola, but the real old-fashioned pansy, the bright faces of which are a constant source of de- light to little people, and which bloom all the better for the extensive cutting to which they will be sub- jected. The sweet pea, the flower which, next to the pansy, thrives under constant plucking, is inadmis- sible, because of the care required in its culture. For this reason the poppy, too, is omitted, as is the frilled petunia; but the single petunia,- the portulaca, the nicotiana, will more than make up for their absence. A few vegetables will not be out of place in the chil- dren’s garden. Beets, carrots and radishes are easy to grow, and the pulling of them from the ground is a perennial source of pleasure. There is no greater source of pride to the boy or girl than to have some- thing of “his own” served at the table, and a few of any one of these vegetables will be almost sure to turn out successfully. Chard is easy to grow, but takes up too much room for a small garden. Parsley grows too slowly, and peas and beans require too much care. But these which have been mentioned may be satisfactorily [53] GARDEN PORTRAITS depended upon, while if Mother will “put up” a glass or two of carrot marmalade, the garden will be doubly remembered during the winter and looked forward to with renewed anticipation the succeeding spring. Of course, as time goes on, other plants may be added to the children’s garden. As the skill of the lit- tle gardeners increases, plants which originally could not have prospered may be grown with hopes of suc- cess. And not only are the principles of gardening being learned, but exercise in the open, a new interest, application—these, and many .other elements, more adapted to the consideration of the “uplifter” than of the gardener, come into play. And apart from these more serious reflections, the garden is stimulating to the imagination—for which of us has not mused over the wonders of nature, as they gradually unfold them- selves among our flowers, and what child, in seeing them, is not tempted to believe in the fairies, with Peter Pan? Speaking of fairies in the children’s garden—and What children’s garden would be complete without them “I—-—let me go far enough a-field to tell a true story of their work. \Vhen I was myself a very little girl, my grandfather had a tiny corner of his own garden set apart into a garden for me. All the gay, bright little blossoms which children love were there, all a-bloom when I first saw them, and during one entire [ 54] THE CHILDREN ’8 GARDEN summer the little bed where they were planted was my pride and my delight. The next spring my grandfather died, and in the stress of more important things, no thought was given to the little garden. But when, the following summer, I ran down to see where it had been, unless one believes with Peter Pan, how can the wonder be accounted for? For where, the year before, my pansies, marigolds and asters had danced and bloomed, was a solid sheet of flowers of a kind which, as far as could be learned, had never been grown by my grandfather nor by any of his neighbors—the cloudy, pale-blue masses of the forget- me-not! [55] N far/y fibril/g //,7r jim/ //r’m/r/_r If //1(‘ //l/(‘/‘ (LI/07in q/l/M‘gmn/N/ INTI/[1’ rrormrr, Maya/MI am/ /l////IJ, 20/1051? (gal/v ”add/11;; /l/'/(//.I JUN/IT J/Iq/h rg/‘m/z/Ilzf/Il lirrr um/ l/n’n' Tbe Bulb Garden CHAPTER VII THE BULB GARDEN NDER ordinary circumstances the garden does not come into the beginnings of its glory until the end of May or the first of June. There is no reason, however, why this should be the case. The expenditure of a little trouble will amply repay the garden owner by the blaze of bloom with which it may be decked in early May, or even in April. A bulb planting in Octo- ber will make the garden gay early in the spring, so that its beauty may reign undiminished from that sea- son until frost; and what flower lover can hesitate at the prospect of nearly two months of bloom added to the beauties of the garden? This miracle, of course, is accomplished by bulb plants—crocus, daflodils, hyacinths, and tulips. Be— ginning with the first—mentioned of these, flowers may be had before the last frosts are passed, and, with their successors, may be continued well into June. The croeus, first of all, is a charming little blossom, which especially endears itself to flower lovers as the first harbinger of spring. It may be had in yellow, blue [56] THE BULB GARDEN or white, and is best arranged as a border plant in a bed which is later to be bright with daffodils and tulips. It is also effective scattered throughout the grass, if it can be persuaded to grow there—no easy task—a1- though so pretty in the instances where it is success- ful as to justify some effort to obtain. Various authorities recommend that the gardener take up his stand in the middle of the lawn, armed with a basket full of crocus bulbs, each wrapped in a bit of white paper to “increase its visibility,” throwing them broadcast and subsequently tracking them by their wrappers and burying them where they fall. In this way, it is said, an unstudied effect may be given to the planting when, next spring, the little heads make their appearance. I know of instances where, charmed by this delightful picture, enthusiastic amateur gardeners spent considerable time in following these instructions, with the painful result that of several hundred bulbs only a scattered few were ever seen again. In spite of expert advice to the contrary, it seems inevitable that a divot of turf replaced firmly over a just-buried bulb should bury the struggling little creature forever; and that this is too often so I am convinced, after having heard of various experiences like thatwhich has just been described. For this reason I am led to say a word in spite of the apparently successful experience of others, against the pretty custom of planting crocus bulbs in [57] GARDEN PORTRAITS the grass. This does not, of course, apply to the in- formal planting of bulbs on the edges of woods and rural walks, where a divot of turf need not be replanted directly above them as must be done, in the instance mentioned, in order not to mar the symmetry of the lawn. The one of the spring bulbs which requires least care and trouble is the narcissus. Unlike tulips and hya- cinths, this bulb, once planted, should be left undis- turbed. The earliest variety to appear is the Nar- cissus poeticus, or “poet’s eye” narcissus, which is the flattened white variety, with the round, rather flat, greenislryellow center, faintly flecked with red. In the daffodil, or yellow narcissus, sometimes called the jonquil, this center becomes trumpet-like in shape, and it, as well as the outside petals, are clear bright yellow. It should receive the same treatment as its earlier blooming brother—that is, a four-inch-deep planting in October, with light covering throughout the winter. The hyacinth comes in May, and may be had in pink, white, yellow or blue. It should, like the crocus and the daffodils, be planted in October, set about four inches deep, and covered lightly. When the flower is gone, as with the other spring-flowering bulbs, the stem should be cut off, and the leaves be left to dry. Unlike the narcissus and crocus, however, when the foliage is thor- oughly dry the bulb should be lifted and stored in a [ 58] if 41-. .‘t . 3* ,. . HE grace/fig of «row/(Jr; 17/ f/f'x; mix, (z/f/zw/g/z 1M! (Z/Mge‘f/It'l‘ muv 9f mmvxp/flbiz/NH, pram/55x (12/ {171217 59 r/mrm’llg" 56/1171 if 1'; Jam Juli/J— flzi'faz‘i/x' m M ”III/(K (11/ zszz‘fijpf M 7 ' ' 7" 7 cmzm // um/ xvii/1' £11.": EEDSZVIEN’S mta/ogum lo the mmmry, it 2'; exreediflg/y dzflru/t t0 Midi/1 a [thw/mthezlzum whiz/z 2'5 red/[y hardy, hut flffi’f’l‘l/If/KIJ’ 2'; ”at romp/m without t/lFJL’ Mummy, which “(any on” Maw/y we/l i/zta Now/11h” without other (0m- pal/iamhip THE BULB GARDEN cool, dry place, well out of the reach of mice, until Oc- tober, when it may be re-set again. Should it become necessary, for any reason, to lift the bulb before it is completely ripe, it should be “heeled in” in some out- of-the-way spot, and there left to ripen. This ripening is a most important process, and cannot be dispensed with, if thebulb is to do its best the succeeding year. Care should be taken in this regard. Before leaving the subject of hyacinths, mention should be made of the grape hyacinth, although it is not really a member of the same family, only coinciding with it in name, season of bloom, and to some extent, in appearance. This tiny plant is cultivated like the ordinary hyacinth, and is a deep rich blue in color, and about four inches high. The flowers resemble those of the hyacinth, save that they are composed of what are apparently tiny balls of blue. The delicacy of the grape hyacinth makes it a charming addition to the bulb garden, although its size and color render it in- conspicuous, unless it be planted in large quantities. The scilla, another cousin of the hyacinth, is decora- tive in a mild way, and may be had in pink and blue. It does best, like the narcissus, if left religiously alone when once established, and, since it is not exigent as to soil, may be utilized to adorn an otherwise barren spot. But the flower which is to the bulb garden what phlox [59] GARDEN PORTRAITS may be said to be to the perennial garden, is the tulip. It is to be had in all colors, and by a judicious selection of varieties may be enjoyed from early spring until early summer, while it is so fascinating a flower that, in studying it, as it bobs and courtesies by the hundred under the spring wind, one can almost understand the madness of the tulip mania of Holland. For tulip cul- ture the ground should be prepared the preceding fall, as for the other bulbs before mentioned; and, like them, tulips should be set in October. Five inches is a good depth at which to plant them; if set less deeply the winter frosts will tend to throw them out of the ground. It is said that the deeper they are planted the less danger there will be of the stems breaking, although, of course, the later they will be in putting in an appear- ance at all. Some authorities recommend placing them in a sheltered spot in order that they may not suffer from the wind, but this is hardly worth while, as they can endure a considerable wind-storm without great destruction. Care should be taken in planting that the bulb be not “hung up,” or left part way down the hole made for it, with no earth beneath. When all are set, the bed should be covered, and the covering re- moved early in the spring. If left too long, a removal of the protection will reveal hundreds of little white heads peeping from the ground, which, if caught by a late frost, will be destroyed; but if the beds be un- [60] THE BULB GARDEN covered early, the cold will keep the shoots back until a more propitious season. There is no reason why the entire garden should not be alive with color in tulip time. They may be planted in every bed, if not too thickly set, for all will be gone before the other plants which rest near by grow to sufficient height to interfere with them. After bloom, to be sure, their brown and fading foliage is unsightly, but the growth of the other plants will soon entirely conceal them. They should be allowed to dry like the hyacinths, and like them lifted and stored until the time comes for re—setting in the fall. The small bulbs which form about the large one—which, by the way, is not the bulb which produced this year’s bloom, but a new one, from which next year’s flower is to come, and which will then die, leaving another like it in its stead—quay be planted, as may those which form about the hyacinth, pointed side up, in a trench. It is said that. in a few years they will be strong enough to pro- duce flowers of their own, but in my opinion this re- quires care and skill which is beyond the power of the average. amateur. It is, of course, considered by many persons un- necessary to lift tulip bulbs at all. As a matter of fact, it must be confessed that even authorities differ upon this point. The eminent English tulipist, Mr. J. Jacob, for one, has declared in favor of the prac- [61] GARDEN PORTRAITS tice for two reasons which seem to him to outweigh all others. The first of these is that, after the stem of the tulip has withered and fallen away, a hole is left in the bulb, through which slugs may find entrance. The second is, that Mr. Jacob finds bulbs left in the ground particularly subject to the disease known as “fire,”—-—spreading spots of white upon the leaves which cause the foliage to dry up before bloom. Al- though this destroys the fiower for that year, the trouble does not seriously damage the bulb itself for the future, although it has a weakening effect, though of course the absence of bloom seriously mars the appearance of the garden. Troublesome though it be, surely a garden full of tulips is sufficiently lovely to make one willing to lift the bulbs once a year to insure perfection! In selecting varieties, the tulip lover is bewildered by the variety and beauty of the types among which he must choose. In my opinion, by far the loveliest variety is the Darwin. The flower is beautiful in shape, and grows sometimes to a height of three feet, upon a long, gracefully nodding stem, bowing and bending before every passing breeze. The coloring of the Darwin, too, is most exquisite. Of them all the two most gorgeous are—between them I have never been able to decide—either the glorious rich rose of the Pride of Haarlem, or the vivid scarlet of the Mr. Farn- [5‘3] THE BULB GARDEN combe Sanders. Have a bed of each of these, if you can—and not too near together; nothing can surpass them in the flower world. A beautiful effect is. produced each year by the lavish use of Darwin tulips in a garden near New York. Along the edge of the garden run a series of beds, shaped like festoons, where in summer bloom foxgloves and, later, larkspur. In the spring, each festoon is filled, besides, with a different variety of Darwin tulips, the whole making a really dazzling bor- der some two hundred and fifty feet long. The deep maroon Mrs. Potter Palmer jostles the almost—black Sultan on the one hand, and the golden Inglescombe Yellow—which turns from gold to orange as the flower grows older—on the other. The Pride of Haarlem is there, and the Farncombe Saunders; the silvery lav- under of the Rev. H. Ewbank, the pink Massachusetts, and many others. And before the house are massed great sweeps of the delicate mauve Dream and the deep pink of the Clara Butt—a sight to dream of, indeed. But Darwins are not the only charming tulips, and there are many others worthy of notice which must be mentioned. The “Old Dutch Breeders,” closely resembling the Darwins in form and habit of growth, are lovely in their infinite shadings of yellows and browns. The parrot, or dragon tulip, in its bright [63] GARDEN PORTRAITS tones of red or yellow, is an oddly notched and jagged flower, striking and beautiful, but difficult to arrange effectively, owing to its determination to sprawl about and to bow its head to the ground. For this reason it is effective where most plants fail—in a hanging basket, to which it is admirably adapted. The Rembrandt and bybloemen tulips are a branch of the Darwin family, and are Darwins which have “broken,” or in which the color has become broken up into stripes and curious markings. They are ex- ceedingly odd, and in many cases striking, but they lack the dignity and the severe perfection which char- acterize the ordinary Darwin. The picotee plants, with their oddly-shaped pointed petals, standing like stiff little crowns all about their upright heads, deserve special mention, and are quaint and charming. All of the above varieties which have been noted are of single tulips. There are, of course, double varieties as well. They are effective, and are often used in parks and places where striking effect is sought on a large scale—an effect striking and obvious rather than essentially artistic. But the pure beauty of line of the single tulip inclines its admirers to depreciate the obvious merits of the double one. It is a gay, bright, cheerful little flower; but more than this can- not be laid to its credit. How should tulips be planted? As has been said, [ GJr] THE BULB GARDEN everywhere you can. They will interfere with nothing else, and will make the spring garden a veritable bower of loveliness while they last. They should not be mixed, however, when it is possible to plant them according to name. When any bulb becomes sepa- rated from the others with which it belongs, it is well to have a “mixed” box into which it may be thrown, and in this way the named sorts may be kept together beyond the peradventure of a doubt, while the mixed ones, if set out together, may be marked at blooming time so that the “lost” bulbs may be restored, after blooming, to their appropriate places. As a matter of fact, tulips are very apt not to “run true,” after a time; and in this way the “mixed box” will grow, and in it will be found some very odd and interesting variations. If possible, tulips should not be set with less than fifty in a group. A certain tulip farm has achieved results really startling in their beauty by the planting of a. border of these flowers before spring—flowering shrubs, fifty of each variety of tulip being set together in every group. This effect can hardly be duplicated in private gardens, because the arrangement sacrifices the garden for the remainder of the summer for the sake of one month of almost incredible loveliness in the spring; but it furnishes an excellent idea upon which the amateur gardener may raise flower-castles of his [ 65 l GARDEN PORTRAITS own. Nor are the numbers of bulbs involved as stag- gering as they may sound to the uninitiate. Tulips should be set about four inches apart; this means that a good number can be compressed into a comparatively small space. If one search diligently, it is possible to find places where reliable stock may be had at much lower prices than those quoted by the average nursery- man, and in this way the expense of the bulb garden can be reduced appreciably. And who can refrain from the delight of figuring one’s flowers by hundreds when so fair an opportunity offers? Order your bulbs by hundreds, or even, if your space permit, by thou- sands; reinforce them with crocus, with daffodils, with narcissus poeticus, and with relays of hyacinths (not forgetting the wonderful dark rich blue of the Roi des Belges); and, the spring once over, your garden will have increased your delight in it enough to make you feel it well worth while to lift every tulip twice over, if need be, to repay it for the pleasure it has given you, and to ensure its continuance of beauty for an- other year. [66] Ifldoor Gardm Tfl /’ Y/x’ US am/ [NI/”1f, m zw// {1; [£11 weal/r p/zm/j, may M grow” I'm/Mn, TC/ll/z’ (1 ro/M of ivy, frail/ml (Mal/t 1'21— «z'm/Q/xm/ CUM/07w or 'zonvzl/H'Ilg [/15 (“Il- nwm M 11 Mug/cw (1/14'[/2'[/iw Mia/1 I! m‘, , d." CHAPTER VIII THE INDOOR GARDEN O the enthusiastic gardener October, once the most beautiful of the months, with its cool, clear mornings and its bracing winds, becomes a real portent of the dying year—of the season when the garden with all its beauties must be hidden away until another spring, under its tucked—in blanket of snow. But, in reality, there is no reason why this should be the case. True, gardening during the winter must be on a contracted scale; but for that reason it need not be abandoned, nor is it only within the reach of those who are fortunate enough to boast a conservatory or a heated “glassed—in porc .” If one will but be con- tent with small results—and not so small, either, since in the small domain of four walls they will seem larger than they would if tested by the summer test of the great outdoors about them—the pleasures of the gar- den may still be continued, and many plants, more fitted for house than for outdoor culture, whose names mean little or nothing to the outdoor gardener, may become our friends. [ 67 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS And how shall the indoor garden be planted? Of course, window boxes are the most obvious answer to such a question. They may be had, in these days, to match any period or form of furniture, so that no room in the house need be without one, save perhaps the bedrooms, in which window boxes are impractica- ble, on account of their nightly proximity to the winter air. If small portable stands be used, however, so that plants may be removed from the close vicinity of the windows at night, there is no reason why, even in the bedroom, the winter garden should not play its part. Of course, plants may be stood about in jars, which may be had in every shape and of every material, some of which are exceedingly artistic. They vary from the stone pots of concrete, smaller than those used in summer out-of—doors, but like them in other respects, to delicate containers of porcelain. Many persons prefer them of the plainest, feeling that the decorated window box or flower pot attracts attention from the beauty of the plant to the receptacle in which it stands. To their taste a simply painted pot, or a plain green window box, solves the problem satisfactorily. The wooden tubs in which Oriental wares are shipped to this country are little seen on the Atlantic seaboard, but they are popular in the West, where, in their natural color, a soft brown, or covered with a coat of black [68] THE INDOOR GARDEN enamel, they are exceedingly effective. Another form of container is the table with high sides, upon which pots may be grouped effectively. But, after all, anything that will hold earth and water, and let out a superfluity of the latter, will serve. To the gardener, the question next arises of what is to fill them. And here so many answers are possible that one almost pauses in dismay at the thought of making a selection. Of course, the begonia occurs to everyone among the first of the plants well suited to indoor culture. Its excellence in this respect is emphasized by the num- ber of these blossoms, some very lovely in spite of often unattractive surroundings, which one sees in farms throughout the country where they can, in the nature of things, receive little care and coddling. They often grow to a very considerable size, and in answer to questions as to how such luxuriant growth has been attained, no recipe is ever given save that the plant always stays indoors and is watered when- ever it requires it, now and then with the addition of a little ammonia in the water. The begonia is to be had in all shades of pink, white, yellow and red, and can accordingly be used in arranging a window box in a room in which the prevailing decorations are in any of these tones. Those of the Rex type are the most satisfactory. [59] GARDEN PORTRAITS Two flowers, usually seen at their best in flower shows but quite unsuited to out-door culture in our climate, are the calceolaria and the cineraria. The former is really charming, in its tones of red and yel- low, with its balloon-like, orchid—shaped flowers. I have seen a whole garden planted in it in England, and so many were its varying shades that there was no suggestion of monotony in the exclusive use of this one flower. The cineraria. is to be had in shadings of purple, red and white, and has a velvety, daisy-shaped blossom, which grows thickly and is exceedingly deco- rative. Either of these is well suited to window box culture. Both of these plants may be raised from seed. There is no reason, of course, why flowers which we enjoy out-of-doors in summer should not be included in the winter garden. Antirrhinum, stocks, and other such plants will make gay masses of bloom in the house during the inclement weather without. It is best, however, in growing such plants, to start them outside late in the summer and to transplant them into the house before the first frosts, pinching off fiowerbuds, should they show a tendency to bloom too soon. It is not always easy to buy young plants of the required varieties in the fall for growing in the house; and the flowering plants secured from florists can never be depended upon to retain their bloom for [70] THE INDOOR GARDEN any length of time, or to thrive for a long period after- wards, on account of the merciless forcing to which they have been subjected. If carefully nursed, how- ever, they will in time become strong and valuable additions to the garden without. As a matter of fact, it is surprising what improve— ment can be made in any plant with care and nursing. The tiny fuchsia, which is, by the way, a pleasant addition to the winter garden, with its gay variegated bells of bloom, has, at Kew Gardens in England, been transformed into a good-sized tree, the stem of which is covered with rough bark, and the branches of which conceal the ceiling of the greenhouse where it is planted. Of course such transformations cannot be worked without the aid of a genial climate and a most experienced gardener; but that they can be accom— plished at all is a constant incentive to the owner of the indoor garden, whose pride in his pots and boxes grows with the growth of his favorite plants. The heliotrope, too, in its branching or its standard form, may be grown to advantage indoors, as may the geranium, that all-too-popular but eternal favorite. The latter may be had in every shade of red, pink and white, instead of only the hideous brick-dust red of former days, and may be used alone, or planted effect- ively with other plants and blossoms, to give a touch of sparkling color here and there and thus to accentu- [ 71 l GARDEN PORTRAITS ate the color scheme which the box is to carry out: Nor need plants of upright growth be the only ones used for indoor decoration. Climbing ones may be utilized to good advantage. I have seen a room charm- ingly decorated by an English ivy, which, growing from a pot beside a bay-window, was trained about the al- cove and then about the picture-rail of the entire room, giving a refreshing touch of greenery and verdure. Nor is ivy the only plant which lends itself to such use. The wistaria and the rose may be so handled, but are better left for outside culture. Such plants as the bougainvilliea, which are not suited to the open air, may well be put to some such use, and may be left year after year, once established, with only the help, perhaps, of occasional fertilizer in the earth, or a larger container from time to time, until the plants attain a really luxuriant growth. The hanging plants, too, should not be passed by in indoor culture. True, the hanging basket is usually taboo on account of the “set” and ugly efiects which are all too often produced by a mistaken use of it; but sometimes one sees such a basket which is success- ful. Perhaps this is unfortunate, upon the whole, for such a sight tempts the observer to try what may be done with hanging baskets in his own home; and it is apt to take a long line of failures to teach him that hardly once in a lifetime can the basket be successfully [721 THE INDOOR GARDEN managed. As a general thing, hanging plants are best arranged with standing ones in a window-box, where each supplements the other; and a successful result may be most frequently obtained by such a combina- tion. I have in mind, however, an arrangement of boxes—porch-boxes in this case, although the idea is well adapted to indoor use—Which were filled with lux- uriant masses of pink begonia. Above them hung baskets similarly planted, so that the general effect was that of two rows of boxes framing the porch above and below. This arrangement was unusually success- ful. In the planting of baskets it should be remem- bered that, as the heat of the room tends to rise, flow- ers which do best in warm surroundings should, if possible, be reserved for such use. The bulb plants—tulips, narcissi, hyacinths—may also be grown indoors successfully with little trouble. They are especially desirable, since they can be grown in gravel and small pebbles, thus obviating the use of earth in the house. The bulbs should be placed in pots and set in some cool dark place for six weeks before they are brought out into the sun. Of these plants the tulip is the most difficult to grow successfully, although it may be raised with care. Some varieties are more difficult to grow indoors than others, for which reason it is well to make inquiry before attempting the cul- ture of any particular variety, as to its merits for in- [73] GARDEN PORTRAITS door culture. To return for a moment to the hanging basket, the parrot tulip is, as has before been noted, especially adapted for basket culture. The weak stems and heavy flower heads make it a difficult variety to grow effectively under ordinary conditions, but a wire basket lined with moss and filled with good earth, so planted that parrot tulips grow out from it in different directions, is one of the few ways in which both this plant and this form of decoration may be made really effective: It is, of course, hardly necessary to say that flowers which have bloomed indoors in the winter cannot, in the vast majority of instances, be expected to bloom again in the summer if set in the outdoor garden. In the same way, flowers which have bloomed in summer cannot be transplanted into the house with any hope of successful bloom during the winter months. As in the case of forced plants, they have “done their bit” and must be allowed to rest, although less rest is essential to them than to those which have been forcibly pre— pared for the market at a certain season. Mention may here be made of those forced plants, so lovely at Christmas or Easter, and so invariably and unnecessarily the crowning glory of the ash- can a few brief weeks later. These can often be saved by careful nursing, and constant care and water persisted in for weeks, even after the plant is appar— [ 74] THE INDOOR GARDEN ently dead, will frequently bring remarkable results. It must be remembered that these heavily forced plants have gone to the very limit of their strength, and great patience must be shown the poor little creatures. Given this, however, they will often have recovered sufficiently by early summer to be set out in open ground, and vitality will gradually return to them, if too much be not expected of them at once. In the course of time they will return to health, and be ready to take up their lives where they were interrupted by the demands of the previous winter. It is well, in arranging indoor ‘window boxes, to in- clude in each, several plants of different varieties which will carry out whatever color scheme may have been selected to harmonize with that of the room where they are to stand. In this way, when one has finished blooming—and no flower will bloom for an indefi- nite ti1ne—-—some other will come into blossom to take its place. This will obviate the sight of the plants un- relieved by color of any kind, and will also prevent the more unpleasant alternative of the entire transplanting of the box when the season of the plants which com- pose it is passed. While this may be possible, it entails much trouble, as well as the continued purchasing of plants, and the incidental uncleanliness and confusion, all of which may easily be done away with if care be used in planning the boxes when they are originally [ 75 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS filled. And if towards spring they begin to look a little rusty, the utilitarian owner may move them to a sunny room well out of the way, and utilize the last few weeks of his winter window boxes for the planting of some of the early varieties of his seeds which are to be set outdoors in the spring. [76] 7776 Garden 77ml F4665 F our W 51y: (:4 fs ~J< “3.)“. .4, ¢ - . H E R E 2'; m . 7- m y . 5 41 .4! K n ’2 .L ’1 ,'- '1 V , f. ‘ . \. ' ’ MAI' llz LI" ’ u "f H ’ "A :1 - , ‘H‘ ,. w A. . ,\ , , _ . 7V. _ [In ‘rK \. ‘ ' ' A .\. . . . «n ‘ \ A w v ' ‘ . .. . u » H .‘\' fi . "5 ‘ ,5.“ ,I, u . , ‘ . u u. A »‘ I V CHAPTER IX THE GARDEN THAT FACES FOUR WAYS O arrange a city or suburban plot when you have both a front yard and a back yard is a compara- tively easy task. Everything of a decorative nature can be put where it will show; everything which de- tracts from the beauty of the scenery may be gathered conveniently about the neighborhood of the back door. But there are some who are not fortunate enough to have this universal catch-all at their disposal; whose property runs from street to street, to a neighbor’s pergola-ed pleasure ground, or to the edge of a lake or river where all the world passes by 0’ Sunday after- noons. Such an environment is ideal in many ways, but it is also productive of many wakeful moments for its owner in the wee sma’ hours of the night, when, as someone has said, ruin always stares you in the face and bankruptcy seems inevitable. What can be done with the compost heap? How may the vegetable gar- den be arranged so that it will not spoil the symmetry of the surroundings? And Where, oh where, can the ash-barrels be hidden“! [ 77] GARDEN PORTRAITS First of all arises, in this problem, the question of en- closing your domain. A barrier, when the property fronts upon all sides, must obviously, regardless of other considerations, be everywhere the same kind of a barrier. It must, therefore, be one which will agree with the setting of house and garden, and at the same time be a protection from passers-by upon the street. With these many purposes in View, the greatest safety lies in something unobtrusive, since any striking ar- rangement would be sure to prove unsuited to some one of the different parts of the property involved, and the fence or hedge selected must protect, and at the same time harmonize with, all its surroundings. For this purpose althea and the other flowering shrubs are at once excluded. They are never satisfactory near a street or road, where they form too great a tempta- tion for flower-loving passers—by. The only exception among flowering hedge plants is the Pyms Japonica, or burning bush, with its striking scarlet flowers. This, armed as it is by heavy thorns, would be excel- lent for hedge use, save for its straggling growth which prevents its making a good effect. Another ex- cellent hedge plant in proper surroundings, the box, is also inadmissible here. It winter-kills in our north- ern climate, and grows too slowly. Stone walls are rather too well-defined for general use; they do not allow your garden to melt imperceptibly into the ad— [ 78 l GARDEN THAT FACES FOUR WAYS joining one, but cut it off short, giving, especially if the plot be not large, a box-like effect. A thick-grow- ing, flowerless hedge will be found to harmonize best with any surroundings in which it may be placed, and of plants suitable for such use the barberry and privet are the most hardy and effective. Of these the privet is neater and less straggling in its growth and if it is cut back severely for the first year or two, will give a stout, heavy mass of foliage which cannot be broken through save by a determined effort, and which is rather stimulated than otherwise if an occa- sional switch be broken off by a passing boy. It has the additional advantage that, after a severe winter, if it be not cut back until very late, it is likely to come to life again in the most unexpected places. The grounds before the house can, of course, be arranged to suit the owner’s fancy, but it is at the back door that trouble begins. I have seen a garage built directly before the kitchen entrance, and this does, of course, form a perfect screen—screening ef- feetively, by the way, not only the kitchen from the outside world, but the sight of the green trees and the coolness of the occasional summer breeze from the occupants of the kitchen; but even so, the constant use of the garage by members of the household renders it impossible to use the narrow space between it and the service entrance as recklessly as might be done if this [ 79] GARDEN PORTRAITS were not the case. However neatly the back of the house be kept, ash—cans and gardening tools, lawn- mowers and laundry, will accumulate and are un- sightly. To shield them, some screen for kitchen and dry-yard should be provided, and is often obtained by the erection of a trellis, rose-covered in summer, which in winter also conceals, to some lesser extent, by the woodwork of the lattice and the bare stalks of the roses. To this end, too, a privet hedge may be erected and allowed to grow some six feet in height. This is a fairly satisfactory protection, even in Winter, for the brown leaves have a tendency to cling to the bushes until they are pushed away by the little green ones in the succeeding spring. It will not, however, serve as a thorough protection for a year or two, for it should be cut back more heavily than the ordinary hedge which is to be used only as a barrier, in order ' to make it as thick and heavy as it must be to serve its purpose of a screen. If the house be used only in the summer, masses of the “giant knotweed” may be planted about kitchen and cellar doors, and this, grow- ing to a height of some eight feet, starting early each spring and requiring absolutely no care, makes a com- pact and impenetrable mass of foliage during the sum- mer, springing up beyond the borders assigned to it in lavish profusion. Unfortunately, however, it dies down completely in the winter. Besides this there is [ 80] GARDEN THAT FACES FOUR WAYS the ubiquitous, but none the less sightly, planting of evergreen, which serves equally well as a screen in winter and in summer. A word may here be said about the view of your neighbor’s kitchen entrance, which, like your own, the utmost neatness will not sufl‘ice to make attractive, and which is almost sure to be commanded by your upstairs windows. On this account, height is a prime consideration in dealing with this problem. A screen of Lombardy poplars is an excellent solution, grow- ing, as it does, with rapidity and taking up little room. These trees are sometimes used in cities with very good effect to protect back yards from being over- looked by neighboring apartments, and they are per- fectly hardy, although apt to winter-kill in the north- ern states. In the latitude of New York they are free even from this slight defect, and are a most useful and valuable addition to grounds where a high and quickly- growing screen is desired. Evergreens are not to be recommended as a protection where the view from a window and the obstruction of an object at a distance are involved, because in this instance height is a prime consideration, and evergreens are both slow of growth and, when of good height, require an area of considerable size. Behind trellis, privet hedge or screen of Lombardy poplars, your cock and gardener and those of your [ 81 l GARDEN PORTRAITS neighbor may do their worst with little fear of obser- vation. Returning to your own yard, the vegetable garden calls for attention. This need not spoil the appear. ance of the grounds at all, if concealed by an althea hedge. Should a westward-sloping hillside be at your command, one side of the vegetable garden may be sunk in it, and this will have the double effect, both of protecting the plants from storm and wind, and of preventing this useful but unbeautiful portion of the grounds from forcing itself upon the attention of the observer. Another arrangement for the kitchen garden, which if successfully done may free you from the necessity of a hedge at all, is that which has been followed by a well-known artist in her home near Philadelphia. Her idea has been, as far as possible, to make the vegetable garden as delightful to the eye as the flower garden, and the result is striking and successful. Her walks are bordered with parsley, and behind this runs a row of lettuce. Other vegetables are set out in various places, arranged according to their height, or massed with an eye to the effect. The coppery bronze of the beet-top, the feathery foliage of the car- rot, the crimson fruit of the tomato, first grown, we are told, for its decorative efiect, the blossoms of the potato, a bouquet of which it is said was once worn by [82 ] GARDEN THAT FACES FOUR WAYS a French gentleman at the court of France—these are all additions to the garden which would never be over- looked were we less familiar with them, or did we look for or expect effect in so humble a spot. A kitchen garden arranged after this fashion is a real addition to the grounds where it is situated. Too low for a hedge intended as a screen, but excel- lent as a barrier between vegetable and flower garden, is the globe artichoke. This is a bush of about three feet in height which bears, not only the pretty decora- tive fruit so useful as a vegetable, but, earlier, a strik- ing creamy blossom, trumpet-shaped, with a throat of coppery purple. The plant is handsome enough to find a place in the flower garden on the strength of the flower alone; and as its habitat is properly among the vegetables, a row of these large and well shaped bushes makes an effective and appropriate barrier be- tween vegetables and flowers. In connection with the vegetable garden, mention may be made of the espalier fruit trees which, omni- present throughout Europe, are comparatively little known in this country. They may be trained upon a lattice which shuts off the kitchen garden from the rest of the grounds, so that screen and orchard may be combined in one. I have also seen espalier apple trees used in France as a border to paths in the kitchen garden. For this purpose they should be trained to [ 83 l GARDEN PORTRAITS a height of about eighteen inches, and then allowed to grow sideways. The method is effective and strik- ing, and also has the merit of protecting the beds from a. careless passing foot. There is one other eyesore which is of prime in- terest to the enthusiastic gardener—the compost heap. This, too, may easily be disposed of in your grounds, with little trouble. If the kitchen garden is at the side of your property, as it is almost sure to be, let it not come quite close to your boundary wall or hedge. In the intervening space set the compost heap. A pit may be dug for it, and fitted with a top of weath« ered boards; and when grass is cut or leaves raked, the harvest obtained may be thrown into this hole, occasionally stirring the contents up from top to bot- tom. In this Way your compost heap will thrive, will be out of the way, and will be at hand on the occasions when you have need of it to enrich your soil, Without any fear that it may mar the appearance of your grounds or in any way obtrude itself upon your notice until you have need of it again. After all, though it takes a little more time and patience to puzzle out the proper arrangement of a garden that faces four ways rather than to plan the simple “front and back yard,” the game is well worth the candle. The most surprising thing about it is that so many persons, under these circumstances, evidently [ 84] GARDEN THAT FACES FOUR WAYS consider the problem unanswerable and make no at- tempt to solve it. Indeed, Whether your domain be visible on all sides or not, there is nothing productive of more complete satisfaction than the knowledge that all your household débris is out of the way, and that the President himself could drop in unexpectedly with- out arousing any uneasiness on your part as to the possible location of the ash-can. There is, when all is said and done, one delightful thing about Nature; only give her a place to disport herself, be it trellis, hedge or wall, and she will do her best for you and, with a little care on your part and with reasonable freedom on hers, make both your front and back yards equally sightly and attractive. [85] Half an 146% am! W/zal Cam $6 Done WM It Half an Acre and W hat Can Be Done with It CHAPTER X HALF AN ACRE AND WHAT CAN BE DONE WITH IT HE question of what can be done With a small plot of land is one which, in these days of subur- ban immigration, presents itself forcibly to an increas- ing number of new country residents every year. A privet hedge, a forsythia, a field stone pergola and a few scattered plants and shrubs of more or less bro- midic tendency solve the problem to the apparent satis- faction of many of us. But there is far more than this of beauty and of pleasure to be had from a small suburban plot; and when such lovely tools as plants and flowering shrubs lie ready to our hands, Why _ i should we be content with any scheme which does not both serve a useful purpose and fulfil our ideas of beauty as well? A suburban plot of from one hundred to one hun- dred and fifty feet of frontage on street or road, run- ning back to a distance of about two hundred feet, is one of not unusual size. Of the hundred and fifty foot plot, which will approximate three-quarters of [86] HALF AN ACRE an acre, the house and its approach will take up no inconsiderable part, leaving about half an acre free upon which the owner may work his will. Upon the hundred foot lot the space upon which to work will, of course, be somewhat smaller. If a ready made house has not been purchased, the owner of the plot will find it worth his while to build either close to the street or close to the rear boundary of his domain. This will leave the full extent of un- occupied ground with which to work. If the house be placed far back, sufficient space for a dry-yard and for the unornamental but necessary needs of the kitchen department must be left behind it; if it be placed close to the road these may be tucked away at the side, embowered in shrubs or concealed behind a lattice or hedge, where they will be visible neither from the street nor from the garden behind. The lat- ter method is an excellent one when it can be em- ployed without forcing the family pleasure grounds into close communication with neighboring laundries and garages, and will be found to provide a quiet and secluded retreat from the noise and publicity of the street. So are built even the smallest of the old-world gardens, which are hedged about in front with walls and hedges so that the passer-by might suppose them non-existent, but which for that very reason afiord all the more delightful privacy to their owners and [87] GARDEN PORTRAITS their friends. The customary American way of plac- ing the garden between house and street gives greater pleasure to the wayfarer and greater beauty to the neighborhood, but is productive of less real comfort to the owner. But however the grounds be arranged, let the house not, in the all-too-common suburban fashion, be set in the middle of the plot. This serves no good pur- pose, and deprives the owner of the best use of the full extent of his territory. The smaller the grounds may be, the more important is it that every part of them shall be used to advantage. It is surprising how every undertaking, from great- est to least, resolves itself into a “man with a hoe,” or, rather, a. man with a stout crowba'r, pick and shovel. Your woodland or your vacant lot, a few months ago so pretty with wild flowers, berries and flowering shrubs, or with its grass and daisies, is now a mass of down-trodden foliage, rutted deep by teams and piled with stones dug from the cellar, raised high among which rises the just-finished house, surrounded by débris, a sight to appall the bravest-hearted land- scape gardener. Out of this chaos order is to be brought; and if the task at first seems overwhelming, the greater will be your feeling of contentment when it is accomplished, and the more, the worst once over, will you enjoy each additional task which marks the [88] HALF AN ACRE nearer fulfillment of your labor and the attainment of your dreams. First, men with picks, shovels and a few bars of dynamite must be turned into the grounds to clear them. This is a permanent improvement, and one which should be done as thoroughly as possible. Each stone untouched will mar the symmetry of your finished lawn, and the removing of it will then be a more difficult and destructive matter than it would have been in the beginning. If a lawn there is to be, let it be a smooth sweep of green turf, not a grassy stretch studded with rocks, which no amount of vines or flow- ers will disguise or beautify. To be sure, the remov- ing of them is a heart—breaking task; every stone, like an iceberg, will be found to show only the smallest portion of its anatomy above the surface, and the tiniest point, attacked light-heartedly with a trowel, is apt to uncover indefinite expanses of rock which can be removed only by blasting. It cannot be too strongly laid down as a principle, however, that every rock must be removed, if the finished lawn is to be satisfactory. This task once done, grading is begun. On a level site this is an easy matter. If a steep hillside is in question terraces may be made, or bank walls built. The latter are apt to present a rather too monumental appearance, however, unless they be made with an eye [89] GARDEN PORTRAITS to filling them with rock plants, by which means the bare wall may be transformed into a mass of bloom. Nothing will grow well on a slope; but if the incline be not too great the portion which is to be sown in grass may be graded in a gentle decline and the beds be marked out and their lower ends built up to a level, a border of green painted wood, or of brick or stone, keeping the earth from washing out into the graded paths beside them. This will in some cases be found to obviate the necessity of terracing—always a lengthy task—or of the building of a stiff and formal wall. The question of beds brings up that of soil. When land has just been reclaimed from the primaeval forest, it seems strange that it should not be at least knee- deep in leaf mould, but this is, alas! all too rarely the case. Still, the quality of the soil need not prevent the existence of a garden, although it may increase the trouble and expense of securing it. If the soil be hope- less, when the beds éhave been marked out—which should be done in connection with the grading, so that the proper relation of beds and lawn may be secured—— they should be dug to a depth of three feet and filled with loam. A load of loam goes a surprisingly short way; but once done, the thing is done forever, and a proper use of fertilizer and thorough cultivation will keep the beds in permanent good order. Everything of this kind should be done before the lawn is finally [ 90 l HALF AN ACRE seeded and rolled, so that after this has been accom- plished it may not again be torn up by intruding carts and horses. With a very sandy soil, of course, there is little to be done. The same may be said of the clay so prevalent in New Jersey, which, when dry, cakes to the hardness of a stone. Even a lawn may not be had under con- ditions of this kind, and so, the beds once filled, a top coating of loam should be given the entire grounds. Forty loads is enough to cover half an acre. Land which has recently been reclaimed is also apt to be sour. This is indicated by its tendency to grow moss. If this is the case dry lime, which has previously been slaked by pouring water upon it, should be scattered over it, and left for the rain to wash in. This improves the ground and makes the grass grow more, and certain weeds less, abun- dantly. These preliminaries accomplished, the owner of the suburban plot may turn his attention at last to the beautifying of his grounds. They will probably boast none of the nooks and corners which he will find, with something like despair, advocated by one after another of the gardening books in which he seeks information. His grounds lie spread out before him for all the world to see; their extent seems suddenly pitiable, and their frank openness to all beholders to put them beyond the [ 91 l GARDENflPORTRAJTS reach of art; no nooks, no surprises, no hidden bowers, no suddenly discovered pools, are possible. This state of affairs is, however, far from hopeless, authors of garden manuals notwithstanding. Surely the old-fashioned garden is an ideal, and the old-fash- ioned garden should be formal. Nor has the formal garden, admirably adapted to the needs of a small place, any place for nooks and corners. Arranged in straight lines and geometrical figures, bordered with box if possible, it spreads itself out, sparkling in the sun, blazing with color. For such a garden there is ample space in half an acre, or in less than that. An excellent plan for the formal garden, none the less good because so often seen, is that of two walks crossing at right angles, at the intersection of which stands a sun—dial, a bird-bath or even a great red sun umbrella, screening a group of rattan or white enamel chairs. Upon this as a basis the rest of the garden may be laid out. The squares formed at the corners of the plot by the intersecting paths may, if not at once, in succeeding years, be divided up into geometrical figures or broken by transverse beds. Everything should be planned in advance, and a definite scheme should be followed. Nothing is more inartistic than the all-too-eommon aimlessly-scattered beds which break the symmetry of the lawn. They suggest only the idea that the owner dug holes haphazard into which [92] HALF AN ACRE he inserted plants which at the moment struck his fancy, and produce as poor an effect as any “hit-or- miss” form of decoration is apt to do. The formal garden is the direct reverse of this, and is effective in proportion as the other is not. The vegetable garden is a problem important, if not from the point of view of the landscape gardener, from that of practical necessity. It will be found that one eighty by forty feet in size will be sufficiently large to supply the needs of a family of three persons. For a larger number, or if vegetables are to be “put up” for the winter, the space must, of course, be increased. By using care in planting, and by skilful rotation of crops, it is possible to use one spot in the vegetable garden twice in one summer. It is even claimed that this may be done three times, but to do so is certainly beyond the skill of any but the most experienced of gardeners, although the possibility holds forth golden promise to the optimistic amateur. By using the ground in this manner, a smaller space may be assigned to vegetables than would otherwise be required. For example, early peas, which should be sown about the first of April, will be ready to pluck by the first of June, and by the tenth of June will be a thing of the past. Bush beans, late cauliflower, or Brussels sprouts may then be planted in their place, and will come to perfection later in the summer. In the same way, early crops of bush beans [ 93 l GARDEN PORTRAITS may be sown in May, and the middle of July will see their place ready for beets, late carrots or corn, or for a last crop of peas. It will not be found generally desir- able, in so small a plot as half an acre, not all of which is to be devoted to vegetables, to attempt potatoes. They require too much room, and enough cannot be raised to supply the needs of the household, although perhaps, for the sake of the idea of “one’s own” po- tatoes, some gardeners may enjoy trying a few. Of all the crops which may be raised in the vegetable garden asparagus will be found the best worth while. The only objection to it is that an asparagus bed re- quires patience—if one-year old roots be bought, two years of waiting is necessary. The bed should be dug out to a depth of three feet, and a layer of small stones spread over the bottom, to ensure good drainage. Upon this is piled earth, well enriched with manure, and here the roots are planted, about eighteen inches apart. A bed ten feet by thirty will give space for a hundred roots, which will be found an ample quantity. It should be free from shade, and if possible well exposed to the southern sun. A herbaceous border of tall growing perennials may be arranged to shut off the kitchen garden from the wandering eye; a hedge of privet or althea will serve the same purpose; while a row of currants, blackberries or gooseberries, pretty in the spring and unobtrusive [94] HALF AN ACRE at other times, can be used in the same way. An effec- tive and appropriate barrier may also be made of es- palier fruit trees, as has been suggested in a previous chapter. If attention be given to decorative effect in laying out the vegetable garden, it need not necessarily be an unsightly spot. Absurd though it may seem to contemplate an orchard in so small a space as half an acre, even this is possible to the suburban fruit-tree enthusiast. Dwarf varieties should be used for this purpose. These are less long-lived than the standard sorts, but take up less room, and may be depended upon to produce fruit in two or three years. They may be planted as closely as seven feet apart, and even closer if carefully cut back and tended. As it is difficult to obtain other than dwarf apple and pear trees in this country, it is well, in a limited space, to depend upon the dwarf trees for these fruits and so to make room for a few peach and plum trees of the ordinary size. Almost any fruit tree may be trained into espaléer form beside a house or wall, and in this way a larger space for extra trees may be obtained. For decorative effect nothing is more charming than the great golden balls of the apple studding the southern wall of your home, or the pale blush of the peach as it twines about your window. In planting fruit trees, too, it is im- portant that the. soil be well fertilized and the trees [ 95 l i l GARDEN PORTRAITS carefully set in. The planting of an orchard is a mat- ter of permanency, and it is the part of prudence to incur, if necessary, some extra trouble and expense in the beginning in order to insure yourself against dis- appointment after the year of waiting which must en- sue before success or failure is assured. For the same reason it is well worth while to obtain stock from deal— ers whose reliability is above suspicion. An orchard is not, like a garden, a Spot where results are known in a season, and where rectification is a simple matter. Of course if your whole domain is to be in flowers, for example, more elaborate plans may be carried out. If more of it is to be set aside for kitchen garden or orchard, a fairly satisfactory collection of blossoms may be had by heavy massing in front of the house. Indeed, the permutations and combinations, even of a half—acre plot, are innumerable. Heavy pergolas, stat- uary, and other such decorations should, of course, be rigorously excluded; they are suited only to large tracts of land, and dwarf the small plot into insignifi— cance. It may be laid down as a general rule that much elaboration makes the small place seem smaller; while the man or woman who can keep the small place simple and tasteful has, in such very forbearance, an aid to beauty by means of which wonders can be done. [96] Old and New F/awem for M76 Garden O R fl'z‘guz/‘d’r/zn' w/w / cm (In V//«r:',v. f/Jz'n‘ xiv I/o/Z'z'z/g ain’t/1 1112/ war/mu My dab/m. BMW/21g 12mm /~'"L‘\"r' mm" 4W jazz/r Xz/wxwm, rc/zx'r/g twin-W's f . N nvmz/z/ fhtr/I fbr wax/y :J'.\" , mmpr/u/ {Hf/1 M fink“ «xx/Eur [flan CHAPTER XI OLD AND NEW FLOWERS FOR THE GARDEN E who love gardens have all experimented with the marigold, the Zinnia, phlox, and other in- destructible plants; and a good many of us have even gone further afield, seeking novelty in the almost equally easily grown nicotiana and verbena, buying snapdragons and other tender plants in “flats” and setting them out as soon as the weather permitted. There are, however, other varieties, little known to the casual gardener, which require as little trouble as these —-pretty, gay things, which will give you of their beauty lavishly all summer, and for many summers, in return—not for care, for they ask nothing as trouble- some as that—but only for the planting. “Give us a chance!” they. seem to cry, as they raise their nodding heads out of the earth; and the giving of the chance is productive of pleasure and profit to you, in the in- creased loveliness of your garden. First of all these tempting blossoms comes the fox- glove. This flower is, of course, familiar to everyone, but it is astonishing how many persons neglect to raise [ 97 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS it because of the care which it, as a biennial, is sup- posed to require. As a matter of fact, nothing is easier to grow. Plant seed in the summer, early enough to be sure that the small plants will be well started before frost. That is all that is required, save for covering, which must to some extent be governed by the climate, but which should not cover the crown of the plant. This is all that is needed, and next spring you will be re- warded by a mass of bloom, pink, red or white, borne on stout stems which, according to their variety and situ- ation, vary from three to six feet in height. Although properly speaking, biennials, the plants are exceed- ingly prolific, and sow themselves broadcast. A bed of foxgloves, once started, will practically, like the brook, “go on forever.” Another blossom which comes early—at about the same time as the foxglove, is the Greek Valerian. (Polemom'um caemleum.) This plant, which grows about three feet high, is invaluable for the “blue bed,” and only requires to be once firmly established to sue- ceed. One enthusiast has described it as resembling “a bit of sky fallen into the garden,” and though al- most no blue flower can be called “showy,” since blue is not a color which strikes the eye at a distance, the solid mass of pale lavender with which the valerian bed will be covered in the spring must delight the heart of anyone who loves color or profusion. [98] OLD AND NEW FLOWERS Another blossom which lovers of blue flowers should cultivate—and lovers of blue flowers seem more fre- quent every year—is the anchusa. This is Widely grown in England, but has not yet come into its own in this country. The reason for this is hard to imag- ine, for next to the larkspur, there is no other blue flower so striking or so effective. The florists’ cata- logues are apt to damn it with faint praise, as being “ungainly in its habit,” and this objection is reason- able, but not insuperable. The beauty of the anchusa will well repay an effort to find it surroundings Where its straggling habit will not mar its effect. It should never be planted in rows, nor will a single plant, nor even a small group prove satisfactory; but if enough space can be given to form a mass, the effect will be most striking. Another arrangement which shows the anchusa to advantage, is the planting of a clump of it before a group of evergreens; the pale blue blossoms stand out against the dark foliage with excellent effect, while the habit of the plant is less noticeable against the green background. The anchusa will be found a splendid addition to the garden, and requires little care. The roots, it is said, are apt to become water- soaked after the second year, but I have known plants to do well after a longer period, when planted in well drained soil, and since the anchusa is self-sowing, any number of seedlings may be safely counted upon to [ 99 l GARDEN PORTRAITS replace the older plants, should misfortune befall them. The sneezewort, or H elem’um autmnnale, may be most highly recommended for planting near the house. It makes a splendid covering for the desolate stretch of bare ground which of late years many persons fill With little evergreens, and which, in earlier days, our fathers struggled to keep green with grass. It grows to a height of six feet, and makes a ray of golden sun- light, wherever it is planted. The blossom resembles a daisy, with the petals cut off at the broadest part. It may be had in crimson or yellow; the yellow variety is the more effective in the mass. The plant is perfectly hardy if some care be taken to protect it from freezing, when grown in places where defective gutters or lead- ers are likely to cover it with a coating of ice from De- cember to March; although often, even this will only retard its growth. Nor is the least advantage of the sneezewort its size and habit, which enable us to substi- tute it for the ubiquitous golden glow, which, although once so pretty, has now become as conventional a bro- mide in every yard or garden as the front path, without the path’s excuse for usefulness for its existence. But while we are abusing the golden glow—which, poor thing, has no fault but its too many friends—let us pause at its distant cousin, the coneflower or Rudbeckia. purpurca. This has none of the triteness of [ 100 ] OLD AND NEW' FLOWERS the golden glow and is not, indeed, as well known as it deserves. Upon a plant some five feet high are borne daisy-shaped blooms some four or five inches across, from the middle of each of which rises a tall dark cone of velvety appearance. The petals are a dull pink. The whole flower is strikingly handsome, and will al- ways attract the attention of those who see it. It is often hard to say which flowers are well known and which are not—so much depends upon the informa- tion of the individual—yet in behalf of those who do not yet know the liatris and the penstemon, which were unfamiliar to me until recently, I should like to say a. word—for the sturdy growth and brilliant coloring of the former and for the delicacy and daintiness of the latter. They should be grown in every garden. A determined effort has been lately made by growers to spread the acquaintance of the pyrethrum in this country. It is said to be an old and tried favorite abroad, and seems to be becoming one here. The plant is, however, a disappointing one in my opinion. Few pyrethrums are sold by name; the result is apt to be a mixed assortment in which the single variety predom- inates, as the double varieties are less hardy and more difficult of culture. The double pyrethrum is said to repay well the trouble taken to secure it, but is diffi- cult to raise with success. The single variety is pretty, but not strikingly so. It is very free-blooming, how- [ 101 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS ever, and can be relied upon to keep a bed gay with bloom for the greater part of the summer. The monkshood (Acom'tum), is another well known favorite of our grandmothers’ days which is not now extensively grown. Care is necessary in the planting of this flower, as the very poisonous root has the addi- tional disadvantage of closely resembling that of the horseradish. It should, therefore, not be planted near the vegetable garden. The blue varieties are more hardy than the white or yellow, as well as more effec- tive, and of these the dark flowered is superior to the paler shade. This plant varies in height from three feet to, in some localities, so much that it may be trained as a vine. With it should be mentioned the veronica, which in the old days when monkshood was a part of every garden, played its part as “Lady of the Lake.” It has been greatly improved in recent years, and its nodding plumes of dark blue bloom are graceful and attractive. A wild flower which has sprung into great popular- ity under recent cultivation is the verbascum. This is no less than our wild mullein in a glorified form, which has been domesticated in England and which, in a short time, has become a much sought-after standby. But don’t fear to try it because of its origin; there is no more likeness between this giant aristocrat of the garden, its pale yellow petals touched by a glint of cop- [ 102 ] OLD AND NE W FLOWERS per or dull purple, and the “common garden” mullein than there is between your nodding bed of snapdrag- ons and its far-off ancestor, the little “butter and eggs” which decks our summer fields. Lychnis, too, is becoming more and more pOpular in this country, although it is not, as yet, a part of every garden. The Lychnis viscaria is a striking pinkish pur- ple flower, rather low in growth and blooming in long spikes. It is, in certain parts of America, becoming known as a “garden stray,” especially along the lines of railway. The reason for this is that its seed is used in packing shipments from certain parts of Europe, and has thus sown itself broadcast along the lines of freight trains. It is an attractive plant, and well re» pays cultivation. The Lychnis Chalcedonica, on the other hand, is a scarlet blossom, somewhat resembling the flower of the verbena in form, but larger and more showy. I have seen it used in a larkspur garden where it was the only touch of color apart from the many shades of blue. Although red and blue are not usually a good color combination, in this instance the touch of scarlet was the one thing needed to bring out the won- derful tones of the 1arkspur——just as the “man in the red shirt” who in some form or other is always pres- ent in every Corot painting, furnishes the keynote to the whole. - Although it is said that all flowers were originally [ 103 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS yellow, it seems at times to the lover of the hardy gar- den that it is the hardest thing in the world to provide a permanent touch of this gay color here and there, save for a few well-known and not particularly satis- factory plants. Besides the helenium, however, an- other valuable addition to this all-too-short list is the Senecio, or groundsel. This plant will grow in any soil, although it does best in low, moist ground. From enormous leaves about its foot rise stems fully four feet high, which are bright with yellow blossoms in August. The Ga-lega, or goat’s rue, is a splendid flower for cutting, which has the additional advantage of flower- ing in July and August while most other perennials are preparing for their second blooming. At this time it is a mass of pink or lilac flowers, which resemble the sweet pea in shape and which are equally decorative in vases in the house or in their native home in the gar— den. When the flowers are gone the pretty foliage makes the Galega an addition to the bed where it is planted. The pink Sidalcea is also worth knowing. It grows to a height of five feet, and in June and July is a mass of clear pink blossoms which are produced in the great- est profusion. There is a smaller and less striking white variety of this plant, but the pink is by far the more effective. [ 104 ] OLD AND NEW' FLOI/VERS There are other blue flowers which should by no means be omitted from the list of blossoms which have not received the publicity deserved by them. The first of these, the Eryngium or sea holly, grows to a height of three feet and is classed as a hardy perennial, although it is extremely difficult to winter. Stout stalks, each bearing a thistle-like, steel-blue blossom, spring from a mass of foliage which is reminiscent of lily-of-the-valley. The flower, which is notable for its unusual color, is everlasting, and may be preserved for many months after cutting. Another good blue blos- som, the Linmn, or flax, is a dainty, graceful plant with foliage resembling that of the willow. It is low-grow- ing and delicate rather than striking, but can fail to please no one who cares for lightness and grace. Be- sides the blue variety there is another, covered with small, red, p0ppy-like blossoms. The Echinops ritro, or globe thistle, is an odd and striking plant, in color resembling the Eryngiwm, in its metallic shade of steel- blue. The flowers are globular in form and exceed— ingly attractive. The list of little-known blue flowers would be incomplete without a mention of the Me- conopsis, too, although on account of the extraordinary difficulty attendant upon growing it in this country, to dwell upon its beauties is, perhaps, more tantalizing than practical. There are many varieties, in different colors, of this lovely plant; the most beautiful, the [ 105 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS Wallachii, resembling somewhat a sky-blue hollyhock. These flowers are beautiful in the extreme, and well worth any trouble to secure, although such trouble may all too often be undertaken without result. They grow in their natural state at great altitudes in the Himal- ayas, and find it difficult to endure, not the cold of the American winter, but, more oddly, the heat of the American summer. If they can be nursed through the heated season, however, their almost unbelievable beauty will be its own reward. Perennials—to which class all these plants belong— are, of course, the basis of the plans of all garden lov- ers of old standing. At first one runs to annuals, but as time passes and “waiting to see” becomes a habit, they are gradually discarded in favor of plants which require less care and which, after a year or two, grow with a luxurianoe which attests their length of resi- dence. One annual which is not often seen of late—is the Scabiosav, or “mourning bride,” as it was prettily known in old—fashioned gardens. It is now grown in delicate shades which rob the name of meaning, but the old “black” variety—really a deep, dark red, re- sembling the color of the “black tulip”——is an odd and charming flower which well repays the little care which is necessary to raise it, and which is far too little grown. Another annual well worth mention is the Dimorpho- [ 106 ] OLD AND NEW FLOWERS theca aurantiaca, or golden African daisy, which thrives in the hottest sun. This charming plant bears number- less daisy-shaped flowers, each with its dark center surrounded by a dark line, and the whole growing some twelve inches in height. It blooms early and con- tinues all summer, making gay little pools of sunlight in the clumps where it is planted. Harking back to perennials, there are many more that could be named. The Japanese anemone, both white and a delicate shell pink, so difficult to winter, but so unequalled for delicacy; the platycodon, a glori- fied bluebell——-an exquisite thing, easy to grow and yet slowly disappearing from the seedsman’s catalogues on the plea of the insufficiency of the demand—a state of affairs which every flower lover should hasten to rec- tify before one of the loveliest additions to the garden joins the limbo of forgotten things; the lupine, which. properly grown, almost rivals the larkspur in habit and dignity; the Sedmn or stonecrop, invaluable where a solid mass of pink is wished for; the gorgeous Oriental poppy, and many others whose names will be more or less familiar to the reader. [107] W/zere AN am! Nature Wee; HE oC'z‘r—u'w'K'n/pt‘z‘go/zz f; mind/z“ 021/; for grow/d; affair/y Angry (MN/t, Mt $514521 Ic‘! (HI/id proper wrl‘ozz/H/I'I/g; 11ml /mz:’1§{' {midi/15d coir/1 viz/w, it 1'; (among r/nw ém‘ xf gnu/w fI/r/z/J/zz'lzgx Where Art and Nature Meet CHAPTER XII WHERE ART AND NATURE MEET 8 every garden lover knows, there are, apart from the flowers themselves, any number of accesso— ries which increase the effectiveness of the garden, and by the aid of which it may be made—not only a greater pleasure to the eye, but also productive of greater use- fulness and more enjoyment. To be sure, these ac- cessories should be used with a careful hand, always seeming to subordinate themselves to the general scheme of the garden, even though in fact the garden may have been arranged to bring out their beauties rather than they the garden’s. This should never ap— pear, however; for the chief effectiveness of garden decoration lies in restraint, and furnishings which never dominate their surroundings will be found to best enhance their beauty. Most beautiful when properly handled, and most obvious of garden decorations, is the overworked per— gola. For a pergola is really beautiful, although in these days when one appears in the yard of every house that boasts a. yard at all, one is apt to overlook [ 108 ] WHERE ART AND NATURE MEET its obvious attractions in view of its equally obvious ubiquity. To be sure, nothing is more ubiquitous than a rustic arch covered with a crimson rambler; but the contemplation of an array of these arches, such as one sees along any country road in early summer, is un— ' attended by the murderous impulses with which one watches the erection of a new pergola in a neighbor- ing yard. The reasons for this are two: first that the pergola is a large and imposing piece of garden furniture, and as such is as out of place in any but a good-sized garden as a concert grand piano would be in the tiny living- room of a cheap apartment. Its lines may be perfec- tion—though too often they are not—but intrinsically handsome, decorative or worth-while though it may be, in a small confined plot it can be none of these things. The second objection to the pergola is that there ap— pears to be some unwritten law by which the majority of pergola-owners keep vines and vegetation scrupu- lously away from it. As a matter of fact, a pergola is only made as a support for vines, and without them is as absurd as a trellis upon which nothing is permitted to grow. Covered with foliage, whatever its design, it will, in time, become a decorative object, provided only that it be placed in a space sufficient to hold it suitably; but a bare pergola with no friendly vines [ 109 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS to hide it, stands before the world convicted of its sins. But this is by the way. The pergola is beautiful and useful, and should be included in every good-sized gar- ' den. It may be made of brick, stone, concrete, or turned wood, or entirely of rustic work. Grapes, roses, wistaria, honeysuckle—any sturdy Vine may be used to cover it, and should do so as fully as Nature will permit. An attractive arrangement may be made by the use of a semi-circular pergola surrounding a small water garden, which is overlooked by swinging seats depending from the cross-beams of the pergola. A pleasant out-of-doors sitting room may be made by arranging garden furniture beneath it; and if a nar- row bed be dug along its edges beneath the roof, and flowers planted there which do not require the full sun, it will be found perfectly possible to enjoy a garden in the open air sitting room as well. A close cousin to the pergola is the arbor or the summer house. Either of these may be had ready to erect, in the white enameled woodwork which is now so popular for garden furniture, or may be built by any carpenter at little expense. An effective one may be made of rustic work. These will be found excellent substitutes for a tea house, and if they be not too far away, meals may be served in them on hot summer days. It is also possible to keep in them biscuits, tea, [110 ] U E TTER r/zmz t/u‘ {mm/111M}! Amara-(171 may of /IlflllaJ/fflg “121'! 07‘ mm” zed/1’; q/ Make); flaggz'zlg 1'5 {/25 Eilg/fi/Z’ met/Md of p/zzzzrz'lzg f/Ié‘ Jpam éffzctm five Ital/6’5 wit}; fizzy floccc‘rz'zlg p/A/m fl (1 P O CF 0’” ”org/55%? I} A'_ ’1' ’14? r I,“ V .‘:‘_/7“-J 9 n; .v '17] y ft‘/IIL‘/Z my, M f/Zr’ " ' ”a“, 1; a Jig/2i to [mil/"r v: c 9 21 / 1g "1 / ”113/1 I; WHERE ART AND NATURE MEET an alcohol lamp, and other such accessories, and so make the serving of tea an easy matter, even if the arbor be at some distance from the house. The per- gola sitting-room and the arbor dining-room enable us to live out-of-doors for the greater part of the sum- mer, during our waking hours, and will be found a well- worth-while investment, from the standpoint of pleas: are as well as of health. If a more pretentious dining-room be desired, the building of a tea house is no great affair. A charming one may be made in the Japanese style, the thatched roof raised either upon walls or upon posts at the cor- ners of the house, in which latter case the flooring should be raised some few steps above the ground. A Japanese tea house may be greatly increased in effectiveness by embowering it in Japanese iris, peo- nies, or other distinctively Japanese plants. An Alpine chalet is also picturesque, especially when set in or near the rock garden, and a tiny English thatched cot— tage is effective; but for the average garden a simple arrangement will be found quite" as satisfactory as a more pretentious one, as well as in better taste. When the matter of garden furniture arises, many choices are offered the would-be purchaser. The white enameled furniture. of which previous mention has been made is now very popular; it is effective at a dis- tance, its lines are good, and it wears well. The chairs [ 111 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS and tables of Japanese rattan are less beautiful, but they have the advantage of being the most comfortable of all the garden furniture. They are all the better for a thorough wetting now and then, and so may be left out of doors in almost any weather. Reed furni- ture is also in good taste, and may be had in various colors. The rustic seats of former days, heavy, clumsy and desperately uncomfortable, have fortunately been consigned to the limbo of forgotten things, and in their place have come chairs almost equally rustic in ap- pearance, with backs and seats of splints. These are less expensive than the other garden furnishings, strong, comfortable «and appropriate. ‘A group of them about the red or striped sun-umbrella which should be a part of the furniture of every garden makes a delightful place in which to study the results of your own and your gardener’s labors, as you while away the long summer afternoons. For more permanent service, the seats of stone or concrete should by no means be forgotten. For beauty and durability there is no comparison between them and any others. They are usually Grecian in design, and exceedingly decorative. They should be placed, however, in spots where wanderers through the gar- den may be expected to sink down for a moment to em joy a view or to rest; for the comfortable whiling away of an afternoon among your flowers they cannot com- [ 112 ] WHERE ART AND NATURE MEET pete with the less beautiful but more comfortable furniture which has already been described. The sun—dial shows danger of becoming, like the per- gola, a garden commonplace, but it is one which can less easily be dispensed with. It may be handled in countless ways, however, and curiously, the personal- ity of the owner seems always to show itself in his choice of a sun dial. A dial may be had at any opti- cian’s, and set upon any pedestal that you may select for it. Exceedingly artistic pedestals may be had of stone or concrete, which harmonize with the seats and benches of similar material. Wooden pedestals painted white may be given a dignified effect, while I have seen pretty and unusual ones made by a skilful laying of field-stones with a planting of climbing vines about them. Attractive and appropriate though the ready made pedestals are, however, the made-to-order nuns have this advantage—that it is possible, in con- structing them, to inscribe upon them a pretty and ap- propriate motto, dear to the heart of the owner, in- stead of being satisfied with the two or three good but trite ones to which custom has limited the repertoire of those purchased ready made. It is unnecessary, by ”w way, to send for an expert to set the dial; as the time told by the sun varies from the actual time for the greater part of the year, a dial is never an instrui mm by which to catch a train. For all practical pur- [113] GARDEN PORTRAITS poses it will be found suflicient to verify it for a few days by one ’s own watch before it is fastened down. The gazing-globe has been of late introduced as a substitute for the sun-dial in garden decoration, but its popularity has not, and is not likely to, become at all equal to that of its predecessor. There is, after all, no utility in a gazing-globe; and its- glittering smug- ness does not seem far removed from the smugness of the cast iron dog now, thanks to modern taste, ruth- lessly excluded from our gardens. The cast iron dog, by the bye, brings us to the ques- tion of statuary, the most dangerous of all to handle out of doors. For, although the day is passed when “modernizers” clapped French roofs upon fine old Colonial mansions and adorned their lawns with metal deer, one still comes across sights as incon- gruous in the grounds of some enthusiastic devotees of statuary. Cheap statues are, and should be, anathema to the garden lover, as they are to the artist. A statue, wherever it is to be placed, should be a work of art if it is to be at all. In addition to this, it must be placed in surroundings which suit it, or its effect will be wholly lost. Its surroundings should be formal, and it should stand alone. Many statues together, however fine they may be, destroy the very impression which one, well chosen and well placed, will produce. The only exception to this rule is to be found in some [114] WHERE ART AND NATURE MEET of the palace gardens and public places of France, Where exceedingly elaborate surroundings and the ex- ercise of taste at once exquisite, cultivated and re- strained, have combined to produce extraordinary re- sults, which cannot safely be hoped for by the average statue-lover. In private estates, generally speaking, a statue is out of place save among the largest and most elaborate gardens; and even in these, statues must be used with restraint, if the best effect is to be secured. Other garden accessories? Their name is legion. Bird baths—from the concrete lined hollow in the stump of a felled tree to the slender column of concrete supporting the shallow pool which will lure all sorts of little feathered friends to your garden, early and late—bird houses, feeding-tables? The little creatures who frequent them will add as much charm to your garden as any statue. Walks, fences, hedges“.l Yes, these too should have a moment’s consideration, from the standpoint of possible ornaments to the garden rather than from that of necessities. A hedge is the ideal fence for a suburban house, and the merits of the various sorts—especially those of bar-berry and California privet,——have been discussed elsewhere. In the country an old stone wall, over which roses may be trained, forms an ideal barrier. A white wooden fence is pretty and artistic, and may be harmonized in its design with the house to which it be- [115] GARDEN PORTRAITS longs. Very beautiful effects, too, may be obtained from a lavish use of climbing roses, as has previously been suggested. If a gate be used, its style must, of course, depend upon the fence which has been selected. In the case of a white wooden fence the gate may be made more imposing by the erection of a fan shaped trellis on either side of it, and the planting of climbing roses upon them. A gateway of Japanese work—re— sembling thatch in its general effect—is pretty, but perishable in our climate. A gate of close-set boards opening in a hedge some six feet high may be had in imitation of our English cousins, who seek, above all else, privacy in their gardens. “Lych gates” are rather popular, and quaint in form; but their very name of “corpse gate” and the recollection that they were used originally at the entrances to graveyards, rob them of appropriateness for garden use, as well as of the charm which they might otherwise have for the enthusiastic landscape architect. The most satisfactory paths for the garden, espe- cially for the rose garden, are of grass. Gravel is less attractive, while those of broken flagging, now so popu- lar, are rather monotonous for a whole garden, al— though nothing is prettier than to catch sight of one here and there. The crevices between the stones should be planted, not with grass alone, but with low-growing and free-flowering rock plants. [ 116 ] IVHERE ART AND NATURE MEET But after all, in the garden, as everywhere else, ap- propriateness is the keynote of decoration. Nothing too much—the adage of the old Greek philosopher is never more applicable than here. For Nature never fails—the efforts of our best gardeners are but too apt to fade into insignificance beside a bit of woodland or roadside Where she has combined shrubs and blossoms according to her will. And when we introduce our own handiwork among hers, we must bring her of our best if harmony is to be the result. Therefore again—— “Nothing too much”-—and let dignity and simplicity be the watch words of the garden decorator who hopes to gain the best results. [117] 0M" Birds and Our Garden: OII'EI'ER nmr and (/mr o/N'floccww ”my //z‘, f/u' gun/('11 {CIV/ Jaw] Mow //l(///d// 1/ if fin/min Nil/{f (gf‘ w/r z’x'ff/r fi‘df/u‘l'u/jib/11" 1‘0 cclwm if [I 1/ bdrm 111/11, 11 .\‘11/1(///412‘_\'. J Mm] lM/m' w ‘fZ‘zY/l'l/‘Q' m/z/z‘ [If/‘1‘ (II/(1] fl‘z‘l'r' -::'."//f/"'1/H l/n'm foflyyzmn‘ if Our Birds and Our Garden: CHAPTER XIII OUR BIRDS AND OUR GARDENS T first glance, birds do not seem, perhaps, an in- A tegral part of the garden. But on that first spring day when someone said—“VVhat’s that?” as the first familiar note of the song sparrow, so long silent, died away, did not your garden, still covered with dry leaves and branches, put on a new form to you, and begin, in spite of its brownness and colorless— ness, to prophesy something of its later glories? Then, perhaps, you wondered that you had not heard that note for so long; and then, for the first time, you be- gan to take an interest in your garden birds. The more attention one gives the birds, the more one realizes the charm which they lend to the garden ——a charm so elusive that it is all too often missed, ex- cept sub-consciously. Perhaps it is because we use our eyes so much and our dulled ears so little that the song of the song sparrow or house wren reaches us less surely than the flash of scarlet of the passing tan- ager or the glint of the bluebird ’s wings. Yet if the charm of that song were taken from our gardens, the [ 118 ] OUR BIRDS AND OUR GARDEN loss would be patent to us all. And of course, from the utilitarian point of view, the destruction of insects caused by our bird neighbors in the garden—the more of them the greater—makes their presence well worth while. Birds are of two kinds, from the point of view of the garden bird-lover; those which can be persuaded to build by furnishing them with dwellings, and those which can be persuaded to make their own homes in the neighborhood, but which will not build in houses which are furnished them. Chief among the first class is the purple martin, once so common that a bird house frequently went by the name of a martin house, but now unfortunately be- coming extinct in some localities. The martin is one of the most attractive members of the swallow family, and lives in colonies, for which reason it must be fur- nished with a house containing several compartments msix at the very least. Some authorities say that the presence of the martin results in an increase of other birds in the Vicinity, while others claim that its pres- ence has a precisely opposite effect. Whichever of these sayings be true, it is certainly the fact that the martin abundantly repays any attentions that are shown him. He prefers insects to any other food, both f or himself and for his young, and a colony of these birds in the neighborhood means a decided and notice- [ 119 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS able reduction in the quantity of wasps, flies, mosqui- toes and other insects. The barn swallow is another member of the swallow family which may easily be tempted into the garden, and by an unusually simple device, since he declines to live in a confined space. Between two posts about ten feet in height let a roof be erected, and a board placed directly beneath it perpendicularly, and running its full length. If a cleat be fastened to either side of this board, also running its length, the barn swal- lows will nest in these miniature eaves, and their graceful flight will add a picturesque touch to the garden, as they swoop about looking for their prey. There is no lovelier frequenter of the garden than the “Bluebird of Happiness,” and he, too, may be tempted to build in a “man made” home. His house should be set firmly in a tree, not hung, and particular pains should be taken to let it face the east, since blue- birds prefer the morning sun. Woodpeckers, too, make pleasant neighbors, and, like martins, repay your kindness to them well, since they are among the most useful of our native birds from the insect-eating point of View. They do not, as is sometimes supposed, go to the heart of a tree in their hunting, but only through the bark to the cambium layer—the growing part of the tree which shelters the marauding insects which, if left undisturbed, will make their devastating way [ 120 ] OUR BIRDS AND OUR GARDEN into the heart, Where the woodpecker cannot follow them. In connection with the woodpecker mention should be made of the flicker, which is, as an insect hunter, less valuable than the former bird, since it takes the grubs only from dead trees. It will, how- ever, eat those which seek shelter in the ground. It has no song. A good home for both of these birds may be made from a small log of wood. No entrance tread is needed for this house, as the birds cling to the side of it as they do to the tree itself. The log should be cut in two, hollowed out, and fastened together again, while a hole an inch and a half in diameter on the side gives access to the interior. With little sawdust in the bottom, this house may be fastened to a neighboring tree to await the arrival of the tenants who will soon take possession of it. The Chickadee will also make his home in a house like that which I have just described. He is a charm- ing little bird, fearless and friendly, and apparently never happier than when he is in human society. He remains with us throughout the winter and adds to his cheerful little personality a very real usefulness, since he eats the harmful growth known as “scale” from the neighboring trees. One of the favorites among man-loving birds is the house wren. His tiny exterior conceals an enormous [ 121 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS capacity for making friends. During the summer days he perches near his home, pouring out a song so full and clear that it seems as if his little throat must burst with its volume. He seeks the society of mankind con- stantly and will not be denied it. The first wren whom I knew intimately drew himself to the attention of his involuntary landlords by nest-building in a little-used awning. One day the awning, lowered, let fall a heap of sticks and building material; they were swept up and there, everyone thought, was an end of the matter. Not at all; next day the wren began again carrying his salvage into the awning; and again it was let down. A third time it was raised; and when, next day, the would-be tenant was seen again going in with his build- ing material the point was yielded. He remained in undisputed possession of his awning, raising two fami- lies there during the summer, and in his leisure inter- vals sitting on a telephone wire outside his door, pour- ing out his little heart in bursts of song. Next year his awning was kept lowered so that he found building there impossible; so he selected the most-used veranda in the house and there, in company with another couple of his acquaintance, two nests were built, so that for the entire summer the landlord was able to enjoy the nestbuilding, the raising of the broods, the concerts, and all the housekeeping cares of both little house- holds. By all means every garden—bird-lover should [ 122 ] OUR BIRDS AND OUR GARDEN set up a wren if possible. A good wren house will be of service in this. I am told on excellent authority that a wren will not raise two broods in the same nest. For this reason a wren house, it is said, should have two compartments. This may be a Wise precaution, al- though I have frequently seen two broods raised in the same nest; and care should be taken in a wren house, as in houses for all small birds, that the opening be made of sufficient size to admit the tenant, but small enough to keep out other larger birds, Who are apt to do him harm. In the matter of bird houses there are several points upon which the birds insist, which should be borne in mind by the bird—lover. First, houses should be erected in the fall or early spring, as birds prefer a “weathered” house to one which is perfectly neW. They should be cleaned every year after the birds have gone. Save. in the case of martin houses, which are erected upon poles, bird houses are best erected in trees, and should be set facing the east or south, and perpendicularly—or, perhaps, with the top inclining a little forward. Care should be taken to put them as far as possible out of the way of cats. Red cedar has a charm for birds, and a piece of it should be attached to every bird house, preferably on the roof, or in some place where it is likely to become (lamp and give off its aromatic odor. A bit of bright [ 123 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS metal should also be fastened to every bird house, as its glitter serves to attract tenants. In the case of tur- tle doves, a small piece of assafoetida placed in the bot- tom of the house which is destined for them, will assure their approval of their new home. Houses should al- ways, of course, be thoroughly water-tight and free from draughts. Birds which will not live in houses may be attracted to the garden by bathing places or—especially—food. Especial care should be given to this feeding, particu- larly in early spring, and late fall and winter. Few persons realize the enormous number of birds which starve to death every year; and so little will prevent it! Feeding, however, once begun, should be syste- matically kept up, for it often happens that birds will remain with you, if fed, who would otherwise leave the severe northern climate in the autumn. The cruelty of ceasing to feed them, at the time when they need it most, under such circumstances, is, of course, obvious. An easy way of feeding is by planting shrubs and vines which bear fruit the birds find edible. For this the barberry is valuable; while among others the alder, the high bush cranberry, dogwood, snapdragon or snowberry, sumach, burning bush, Amur privet, the various thorns and the mountain ash are decorative to the garden and make the dark winter days brighter to [ 124 ] OUR BIRDS AND OUR GARDEN our little friends. Among the vines, the bitter-sweet with its bright red berries, the honeysuckle, and the woodbine afford welcome additions to the birds’ store- house; while no one who has tried to raise cherries, currants, mulberries, or other small fruits, needs to be told of their attractions. In winter, When these have been exhausted, birds may be fed meat scraps, bird seed, sunflower seed, oats, Wheat, rice, bread crumbs, or other similar food. Suet, which does not freeze even in the coldest weather, is excellent for them, and a few pieces of it should be placed about the garden in Wire baskets which may be purchased for this purpose. The traveling feeding tables, by means of which food may be served to the birds without the trouble of going out— doors, and which are run on a wire from a convenient window to the nearest tree, are useful in inclement weather, and if left each day a little nearer the house, serve to tempt the birds closer and closer until they become quite tame. In warm weather, a close second to feeding, in the matter of attracting birds, is the bird bath. This may he the shallow bowl of concrete, which is now so popu- lar, or, if a simpler device he preferred, a hollow in the stump of a felled tree may be lined with cement. Anything that holds water will suffice, and birds are quick to find it and to turn it to advantage. One old farm house in Connecticut has an accidental, but satis- [125] GARDEN PORTRAITS factory, bird bath, in a hollowed-out stone,—in which tradition has it that the Indians once ground their meal,—which always holds a few drops of rain water. No one who has seen birds standing on the brink of such a stone, or even splashing in a few drops of water collected in a lily pad in a water garden, bathing, drinking, and “praising God,” shaking their little wings and fluffing themselves in a sunny spot to dry, will deny that a bird can—and will—bathe in almost anything. The bird bath may be made a thing of beauty and a feature of the garden; but for the use of the birds themselves, it is wonderful how little will suffice. The question of bird enemies is another which must be considered by the bird lover. Chief among them is the cat, for whom the bird enthusiast speedily acquires a hearty distaste, however alluring the vision of Pussy by the fireside may once have been. Wire guards put about the trees frequented by the birds will keep her from their nests; but when spring comes and the gar- den is almost literally strewn with fledglings crying pitifully, and every cellar window and foxglove crown have become impromptu sanctuaries, the strictest care and watchfulness will not prevent kitty from taking some part of her toll. The red squirrel—not the gray or flying varieties, nor the friendly chipmunk—is almost as great a men— [ 126 ] OUR BIRDS AND OUR GARDEN ace as the cat to birds. They eat the eggs when possi- ble, and when the little birds are hatched make their way to the nests and bite the tender joints from legs and wings, leaving them to die, or, in some cases, eat them alive. Guards on the trees are of some use in preventing their depredations, but the best plan is to shoot red squirrels as fast as they appear. English sparrows in sufficient number will also drive away garden birds. A few do no harm, but because of their untidy habits and the danger of increase in the size of the flock, it is well to be rid of them in any case. If one be shot and hung where the others will see him, they will depart promptly, and this method is easier and less harrowing to the tender-hearted than the use of a sparrow trap. A considerable decrease in the numbers of the sparrows would probably result if they were used here for food as they are abroad, since they are distinctly palatable; but until the custom spreads to this country, they are generally got rid of by driving away, or by drowning in the sparrow trap. Meantime, bird houses, put not over eight feet from the ground, are less apt to be invaded by them, since sparrows nest high; while hanging houses tempt other birds, save the bluebird, equally, and the sparrow not at all. It should also be borne in mind that the sparrow requires a platform on which to alight. If a cleat, instead of a platform, be fastened before the entrance to each bird [ 127 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS house, access will be easy for every other bird, and impossible to him. These entrances, by the way, should be protected by a roof. You see how little it takes to tempt the birds into your garden. Try it, and you will see how small the labor is, and how much pleasure it will bring. Not only to be rid of many grubs and insects, but for the songs, the brilliant flash of color, the presence of some: thing, as charming as your flowers, but better than they in being alive, in knowing you and welcoming you -—try them and see if with their aid your garden does not grow dearer and more human, than you have pre— viously found it. [128] 7726 Flower Spectrum HE All'Xflf/‘Il/J' 71m ‘1 g/az'y {ff/Ir a/d' fit/xx gumhl, 5m $711 mm" /n'/}/u"d},waif/1 fl?!“ .‘ v c: ' n 1g .75 1'! 1 1r 2 u .‘ 11g 5/13; r"'Z/"A' xiv/Hy Muir/4' [UH-p/l' fix [@117 23/175 fad/(13d rcu'fl‘ ;),'A¢.1.{‘:’[" AIVVI‘I‘ 1":VIVZ/ /{/‘:'(V//A;{‘,- 7 1 i . v J ~~~~~~ HUI/X "Ur?“ [1." r u( L (.U’fl J HERE [J 2/0 ”la/'1‘ /o‘}w/ or man‘ M34? .vfd/n//2_v 7/ NH gun/x” f/IzI/J f/Ir‘ p/I/o‘x. From f/It' fi/m' fth/ in Moo/11 flag/.715 111/177 Alfffizfl f/It‘ (Ix/l/l/l't'l' qf {fiE‘z'f/f'r p/zz/Hi/Ig." 171m: ”a mum/- I/z‘xx, C('/I//r‘ if [I 11! if; fro/34' CHAPTER XIV THE FLOWER SPECTRUM HERE is now a fancy for gardens, or sometimes for beds, of masses of solid color. It is a pretty idea, and in itself a useful one, since to work it out effectively a thorough understanding of the flowers to be used, their exact season of bloom, and the length of time which it may be supposed to endure, is required. For it goes without saying that a garden or a bed of any given color must be an applied example of the suc- cession of bloom—it must produce a certain effect and keep it for the entire summer, or it has not fulfilled the object of its being. This may be done, however, with flowers of almost every color, and how it may be accomplished is the object of the present chapter. The Blue Garden Blue is a color increasingly fashionable in the flower world just now, whether it be the wonderful blue gar- den of Mrs. Burnett, of which so much is heard, or the single festoon bed in the suburban yard. Perhaps this [ 129 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS is because blue is of all garden colors the most difficult to obtain. The blue—garden enthusiast does not ordi- narily discriminate between flowers which are strictly blue and those which are, properly speaking, lavender or purple, however; and although in many cases this results in a garden which is not blue at all, the number of really blue flowers is so small that without some such leeway it would be difficult, and perhaps impossi- ble, to design a true blue garden which would be permanently effective. Care should be taken, in plan- 11in g the garden of this color, to use sufficient clear blue flowers to counterbalance the purple ones, so that the latter may take their tone from the others, not give their own color scheme to the entire garden. The obvious border for the blue garden is the for- get-me—not, which blooms early, and though showing little color later in the year, gives a foretaste of the fu- ture glories of the garden before they have well begun. Let larkspur be grouped behind it—the more lavishly the better. One of the most effective larkspur plant- ings that can be imagined is that at the Ranelagh Club, near London, where a path runs through a veritable thicket of larkspur some six feet high. Of course in our climate such an effect would entail far more trou- ble to procure than is necessary in the more genial climate of England; but the effect is so novel and so beautiful that it is well worth considerable effort to [ 130 ] THE FLOWER SPECTRUM obtain. While there are many varieties of larkspur among which to choose, the best are Kelway’s hybrids, which are in this country grown from seed from Kel- way, the English larkspur specialist, and though high in price, they are well worth the difference in cost. The plants are strong and grow to enormous size, those exhibited at a recent flower show in London bear- ing spikes of bloom twelve inches in circumference, composed of blossoms any one of which was sufficiently large to make, alone, a generous buttonhole bouquet. Of course these were exhibition blooms; but flowers approximating them in size and beauty can be raised by any amateur, given care and some understanding of the subject. The Carnegie, a pale blue, touched here and there with pink, is perhaps among the loveliest, although there are many others among which it is diffi— cult to choose—notably the Rev. E. Lascelles, and the Smoke of \Var, the latter bearing stout stalks of a dull deep purple. The anchusa may also be massed to good effect in the blue garden, although the single plants are unsat- isfactory, owing to their ill-formed shape. It blooms at the same time as the larkspur, and like it will give a second crop of bloom if out back after the first is passed. It is covered with a mass of pale sky blue flowers and is second only to the larkspur in decorative quality. The blue lupine is covered with long racemes [ 131 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS of blue in June, while in July the steel blue echinops, with its globular blossoms, and the thistle-like eryngium, of similar color, some varieties of . which boast bluish foliage as well as steel-blue blooms, both add to the effect of the garden. The Nigella, or Love- in—the-Mist, is a blue annual with feathery foliage which appears in August, and which is pretty and old- fashioned, but. which cannot be relied upon for striking color effect. The veronica, last of the “true blue” flowers, blooms in August, and is highly decorative with its spikes of rich blue bloom. And now for the purple flowers. One of the chief among them is the platycodon, a striking plant three feet in height, reminiscent of a glorified bluebell. It blooms in July, and is exceedingly effective sur- rounded by a border of ageratum—a sturdy and de- pendable little plant, which should be a part of every blue garden, and which may be depended upon to show color from its first bloom until frost. Earlier bloom— ing are the Canterbury bells, which make a brave showing in blue, although the blue variety is not the most beautiful of their many shades. Earlier still than. these, the lavender Pole/menium (Greek Valerian), a strong and useful little plant, gives a mass of color in the corner of the garden allotted to it, while later again, the purple aster, both of the annual and the perennial varieties, must not be forgotten. The purple [132] THE FLOWER SPECTRUM bergamot blooms in June, and keeps it up until August, or later, while anchusa, larkspur, and Polemenium, may be relied on to furnish a second blooming late in summer. The Red Garden Although it is said by some authorities that there are few red flowers, a red garden may be arranged for a’ that. The chief difficulty in considering its arrange- ment is in the disposition of the various shades, which vary widely, and which are but too apt to quarrel with each other in the most violent manner. For instance, the crimson of the sweet Mary (Monarda) cannot be placed with any hopes of success near the scarlet of the Lychnis Chalcedonica, nor can any of the brilliant red phloxos, such as the General von Heutz, which are apt to be touched with a hint of deep rose in their vivid coloring, be satisfactorily grouped near either of them. Still, the problem is not insoluble, and since so many of the garden standbys belong to this shade, it is quite possible to enjoy the flaming masses of color—or rather, of colors—to one ’s heart’s content. Perhaps the first of the red flowers to appear, if we except the tulips, which may be had in striking shades of that gay color, is the Oriental poppy. Of all the early flowers this is the most striking, and may be had in various shades—some of the too familiar “brick [ 133 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS dust” type, but others of wonderful tints of scarlet and of crimson. The red pyrethrum makes a bright bed of color wherever it may be set, although its tint, being closely on the cerise order, may perhaps appear as well suited to the pink as to the red garden, and must be combined with this recollection in View. The sweet William, and various of the pinks, are also additions to the early summer garden which, alas! last all too short a time in View of the increase which they add to the be- ginnings of the garden ’s beauty. Those flowers, however, are only by the way. In June the red garden begins to come into its own indeed. Mention has been made of the scarlet Lychnis Chalce- donrica, and of sweet Mary. Of these the former, in its dazzling scarlet, does not long satisfy the eye with its lavish color; but the latter may be relied upon to keep the garden gay until frost, if it be kept cut, and in any case until early September. Masses of it should be planted here and there, as well as masses of the red phlox, in varying shades, which in July, and later, will blaze brightly in the summer sun. Near either of these plants may be set red hollyhocks, the dark rich tones of which form an effective combination with almost any other shade, and are in themselves restful to the eye among the brighter tones scattered about the gar- den. In July the coral of the penstemon may be massed here and there, while the Celosia, in both '[ 134 ] THE FLOWER SPECTRUM varieties—cristata, and plumosw—cockscomb and prince’s feather—gives a touch of cool rich crimson. There. is, earlier, a crimson antirrhinum, in tones which recall the words of the blind man, who, when asked to describe his idea of red, likened it to the sound of a trumpet. At this season, too, the red mallow is an effective addition to the garden, although the red variety is in point of beauty inferior to the pink or white. Returning to J uly—why do so many delightful “by- ways” come up to tempt one, like Proserpina, away from the business in hand when one is speaking about flowers ?———the gladiolus must not be forgotten. The red variety known as Mrs. Francis King is exceedingly beautiful, but there are many others from which to choose. An entire bed filled with these flowers, even though it be a trifle bare after blooming, is, while it lasts, a sight to conjure with. I have seen over two hundred feet planted in these flowers, in a strip per- haps three feet wide, in which there was no hint of monotony, but on the contrary, an effect of almost un- believable delicacy and grace. Later in the fall, the red flowers seem to come en- tirely into their own, and to displace the others. The red helenium, so beautiful for massing, in its shades of deep crimson; the many-shaded reds of the dahlia; the cerise-red of the cosmos, the long-enduring scarlet of [135] GARDEN PORTRAITS the salvia and the canna; and last of all, the deep crim- son of the red Chrysanthemum, end the list of the crim- son and scarlet glories of the garden. The Yellow Garden There is no color brighter or more cheerful than yellow in the garden. Perhaps that is the reason why we all welcome the first daffodils so gladly as we see them in the hands of vendors in the streets in the first frosty mornings of early spring. They seem not only flowers—not only plants warm and alive, first prophe- cies of what is to come when the snows of winter have been left behind—but imprisoned sunlight, the warmth and brightness of the coming summer. And impris— oned sunlight is the underlying idea which the yellow garden calls forth, when its shining beds lie sparkling beneath the summer sun. One can hardly think of a yellow garden without thinking at the same time of coreopsis and gaillardia. These two valuable perennials, neither of which is es— pecially attractive in itself, cannot be surpassed for massed color-efiect, and make a foundation upon which the rest of the garden may be solidly built. Both are sometimes a little hard to get started, but once estab- lished they form thickets of foliage so compact that it [ 136 ] THE FLOWER SPECTRUM is difficult to set any other plant in among them with- out its being in imminent danger of being choked out. Both of the above mentioned plants begin to bloom in June or July, and continue during the remainder of the summer. In August another, almost as prolific a grower, although an annual, may be added to the list. This is the Dimorphotheca, or Golden African Daisy, a flower thriving through the hottest sun and in the dry- est soil. Later comes the helenium, in its (most satis- factory) yellow variety, which is especially valuable as a planting against a house, or a wall, where it will give its full effect, and where, moreover, it may receive some support in case of winds. During August, too, a group of sunflowers in a corner is a pretty sight, while the red-banded calliopsis blazes away in red and gold and the calendula, which has been busily at work since June, adds its orange tints to the gaiety of the garden. At this season the yellow gladiolus makes its appear- ance, as well as the ever-present, but none the less dec- orative, golden glow. Then, too, may be seen the bright nasturtiums, which also first came upon the scene in June, and the marigolds, both the giant African va- riety and the prettier but smaller and less effective French marigold. August is par excellence the month for the yellow garden, since few perennials seem to be in this color, [ 137 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS and since few annuals bloom earlier. Still, a lavish planting of the coreopsis and gaillardia will serve creditably to “carry on” until this season arrives, when the yellow garden suddenly blazes up in a veri- table fire of imprisoned sunlight. There are still two flowers which may be added to the list—the June-flow- ering lemon—yellow pyrethrum, and the gorgeous verbascum. It is hard to avoid the old adage about the telling twice of a good tale when one thinks of the verbascum; so, in passing, it may merely be said again that there are few flowers of any colors which are its equals, and that no yellow garden should be without at least one clump of the lovely, tow- ering things. Among late flowers, though less well represented than the reds, the yellows have a place. The different varieties of the yellow dahlia are effective and beauti— ful, and the perennial sunflower, one of the last garden plants to bloom, raises its golden head untouched by early frost. The yellow chrysanthemums are perhaps the most satisfactory of them all, especially those be- longing to the “pompon” variety, which are covered with tiny buttons of gold. At least one of these should be in every yellow garden, or, for matter of that, in any garden at all. And when the winter comes down upon the flowers putting out the yellow, the red, the pink and blue lights one by one, the last among them [ 138 ] HE g/zzdia/I/J J/mzz/d //£ p/am‘z’d wm‘ywlzen’ that 471 extra éu/é [an 55 turked 171. It tdkw lift/e room, mid wi/Z amp/y rep/1y it; imm/latiofl milk in wealth qf 5/00/71. The gm"!- [m‘dz’a 071 #15 oflzer band grow; 10 [uxm‘i/mt/y, that it ”mt be awarded 4 Ad to im/f, 071 pm); of dmt/z to the p/am‘; Let our beJidt it. It i; we of the maimtay; of 1/73 ytl/ow garden. .V/f (f f/](' msu/ /21VI//f{f1// zgf~ ‘1/17 f/zr /1'//}1r [I flw‘ [JV/m” .vpt't‘iw‘m/l rub/mi, ruff/1 1/; J/J/z‘z'y, f/Iz' [,i/I'Izm .\/>:'u"o.~'////1 1/17)!sz (1114/ f/Iz' fill/pam‘m'. T/Iz' .r/mzcw (fff/fz‘h' 1')! phi/l" ar {MIX/x, Mgr/hm {if/1 f/n‘ir 1/5/11‘11/1‘ pz'z_‘f}/mr, {mm/mh' 1‘0 ”id/(T vair [MN 9f f/sr pun/('21 11 {or/127' q/‘fIz/{v/luw’ -::'/1.‘;'}‘ r/xm‘ an‘ in ill/(Jam THE FLOWER SPECTRUM I to give way will be that last bright reflection of the summer sun, persisting so bravely through frost and cold—the brave little yellow pompon Chrysanthemum. The White Garden The essential points of the white garden have been treated in considerable detail under the heading “The Moonlight Garden.” Of course in a garden which is to produce an effect by day, the perfume of the flowers is of less importance than in one which is primarily designed to be effective by night; and in the same way the striking effect of various blossoms can, to a con- siderable extent, be dispensed with, since less is re- quired to attract the eye by day than by night. It may be well, however, to recall a few of the chief standbys of the white garden, be it for day or night enjoy- ment, which cannot be too strongly emphasized. Prominent among them stand the white phlox, the nicotiana, the Lilium aur’atum, the yucca and the Hyacinthus candicans. Candytuft and sweet alyssum, white scabiosa, white pinks and white verbena may also be mentioned as charming and delicate flowers, which make a good effect during the day, although in- conspicuous at night. Since almost every plant has a white variety, the choice for the white garden is a large one, and almost every variety of flower may make a part of it. [ 139 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS The Pink Garden The pink garden is almost as easy to plan as the white one, for the number of pink flowers is infinite and tempting, from the Dielytra, or “bleeding heart,” which is one of the most effective of spring’s advance scouts, to the pink Chrysanthemum which brings up the rear guard in October. A border of pink Bellis, or English daisies, may edge such a garden in early spring, as may the pink variety of the candytuft, and behind them a most effective grouping may be made with masses of pink foxglove and the delicate shell- pink of the Canterbury bell. As those begin to pass, the great salmon colored Oriental poppy, blooming prolifically through its short season, offers its share to the beauty of the garden; while the Lychm's visca-rz‘a, a bright cerise, also blooms freely and makes a blaze of color through the short time in which it adds color to its corner. Then follow the pink pyrethrum, pink snapdragon, and lastly the great pink mallow, which grows to a height of five feet or more, bearing great rosy flowers which brighten the summer marshes later in the year, but which comes earlier under cultivation. Then the hollyhocks, in all shades, which should be planted broadcast, ensure masses of bloom, and give color in every spot, before which still more color may be massed, at the gardener’s wish. Before these have [ 140 ] TH E FLOWER SPECTRUM gone, in their turn, again come the phlox in many shades and varieties, and upon this, to a great extent the garden can rely. Nothing is lovelier than phlox, or more satisfactory, both because of its very great decorative quality and because of the little care which it requires; and both here and in the white garden it is a pleasure to be able to avail oneself of this most effective plant with a lavish hand. Before it has gone, the pink galega, a useful perennial which blooms freely and which has the advantage of flowering at a season when other perennials are temporarily quiescent, comes into bloom; later the pink physostegia, which is a more satisfactory variety than the white, begins its work. While the phlox and the physostegia are bloom- ing, the pink garden is in truth at its best, for these two full flowering and striking plants will give a dash of color—delicate or bold as the case may be—in any corner where, for the moment, color is otherwise lack- ing, and will continue to keep it there for the remain- der of the season. As September approaches, although the two garden standbys may show signs of wear, other attractive blossoms come to help them in their failing work. The first of these is the gladiolus, which is charming in its tones of rose and pink, among which may be especially noted the “Kate” and the “America.” The rudbeckia purpurw, with its large daisy-like flowers of dull pink, [ 141 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS of the tone which was once called “crushed rasp- berry,” borne upon a plant four feet high, has no small part in the beautifying of the fall garden. The sedum will become a solid mass of dull—pink flower-heads dur- ing its bloom, and as such is useful in outlining a circle or other definite design. The pink annual aster, the pink dahlia, the cosmos, and, best of all, the wonderful silvery pink Queen Charlotte anemone, each in turn gives its touch of loveliness to the pink garden, until at last it passes among the things that have been, with the passing of the last pink Chrysanthemum. The above list of flowers is not, and does not, of course, pretend to be, exhaustive. There are many other flowers, often sold in mixtures rather than ac- cording to color, which if procured separately, can well be included under one or the other of the various headings described here. For example, the pansy,’ though excellently adapted for the border of the blue, yellow or white gardens, ordinarily is sold in a mix- ture of seeds, or mixed plants are bought in “flats.” It is, however, possible to procure seeds of any par- ticular color, and so to make a border of these charm— ing, free-blooming little plants in any color that is desired. The same thing applies to the verbenas, the antirrhinum, and to many other plants. In such cases I have mentioned a definite variety only when the color [ 142 ] THE FLOWER SPECTRUM under discussion was especially well represented by it. As far as possible, too, the varieties recommended have been those with a distinct massing value. The sweet pea, accordingly, and the columbine, as well as the morning glory, have been purposely omitted be- cause they do not present a sufficiently powerful color effect, such as the designer of a garden or bed of a eertain.color desires. . It is hoped that these lists may serve as useful suggestions, as bases for the collection and arrangement of plants of various colors; but they are in no way exhaustive and for the above reasons many charming and well known plants will be found to have been omitted from these pages. [143] HE awn/12:: l'm’x/I/I/m iv mom 2‘ 2‘L'I/C’z' l/m/x {/15 111/, mm ‘ Adm/v. /// /12'z/:£{:‘1'/ far/m m mil/J‘fi'u‘forv éo/‘t/z'r or (LI/'1 Garden Friends and Foes CHAPTER XV GARDEN FRIENDS AND FOES VERYTHING has its drawbacks, it is said, and, to support this cynical saying, the garden, among its pleasures, has some crosses in store for us which we must bear. Animals, insects and plant diseases will to some extent, trouble its serenity; but a little care—especially that of the “ounce of prevention” variety—will, nine times out of ten, save us from more serious misfortune, and will give us only enough trou- ble to awaken our realization of the dearness and de- pendence of our flowers upon our care. The roses seem to be as attractive to insects as they are to the majority of human kind. The white aphis is their first admirer—a soft green creature, about the size of a pin’s head, who lives in swarms and feasts upon rose buds luxuriously before they have opened. Various mixtures are sold for the purpose of destroy- ing this pest; among the best of remedies may be men- tioned that of spraying with tobacco water or whale oil soap. In most cases it will be found necessary to spray the roses before they are in leaf, and at inter- [ 144] GARDEN FRIENDS AND FOES vals afterward, to keep them in good condition; for if the aphis once gets a foothold it will be found exceed- ingly difficult to dislodge him. The aphis arrives early in the season, and after him comes the rose bug. He eats the open flower, as a rule, and can only be effectively disposed of by handpicking into a cup of kerosene. He also revels in peonies, per- ennial heliotrope, and iris. The garden should be vis- ited every morning, and these insects removed, as far as possible, until danger from them is past. Luckily, their reign is a short one. The next pest, and the last one for the roses, is the black rose beetle. He may also be destroyed by one of the mixtures which are sold peculiarly for his benefit. His depredations like that of the aphis and the rose bug, are not, alas, limited to the rose garden, but it is here that his presence is most likely to be most griev- ously felt. The red aphis especially affects the golden glow, al- though it may, like other insects, be found elsewhere. The mixture which destroys his white brother is fatal to him, as it is to the black aphis, which returns again and again, with great persistence, to the helenium, nasturtiums, and other plants, not sparing even the lotus. A method preferable to spraying is to apply the mixture with a rag or a piece of an old sponge. In this way little of the fluid is lost, and every part of the plant [ 145] GARDEN PORTRAITS is assured of treatment. Since in this way the plant receives more of the liquid than it does through a spray, the solution should be weaker. It is well to treat a few stalks, and to defer the rest of the work until next day, in order to make sure that too strong a mixture has not been used. The dipping of affected stems into the solution is also advocated in some quar- ters, but apart from the danger of breaking tender stems in so doing, any solution but the weakest is apt to burn the plant. A stronger solution, used with a sponge, I find the most effective. The white aphis also infests the roots of the helenium. In such a case the plant should be dug up, the roots washed with the mix- ture, and the whole re-set in a new place. Wherever a leaf is found folded over, look to see whether it does not enclose a. worm. If so, as is apt to be the case, the intruder may be pressed to death between the fingers. The large nests of “tent cater- pillars” which are often found on trees and shrubs, should be burned. This should invariably be done, even if the infested tree be not on your own domain, but in some field or vacant lot near by. The cutworm is an especially insidious enemy of the garden, since his presence is known only after, through his agency, some cherished plant has been cut off be- neath the earth. ‘Vhen this occurs, if the earth about the plant in question be carefully examined and stirred [146] GARDEN FRIENDS AND FOES up a little, the offender will usually be found curled up in the vicinity. Luckily these creatures are apt to re- main near the scene of their depredations, which makes the otherwise hopeless business of catching them pos- sible. They may be crushed between small stones, or if a cup of kerosene be at hand, this will be found fatal to all insects with which it comes in contact. When- ever beds are dug over, some cutworms are likely to come to light. The borer is another insect which strikes terror to the heart of the dahlia lover. It is because of his activ- ity that one finds, at times, stalks hanging wilted from the main stem of the plant. A slight search will reveal the hole, near the leaf, where the borer found entrance; the remedy is to make a. weak solution of Paris green, and, after stopping the hole with a piece of cotton, to make a small cut in the upper end of the branch, and in it to pour the solution. \Vhen the cotton becomes soaked, remove it; the borer will have been destroyed. The fat white grubs which sometimes come to light must also be put to death. They may be entirely elim- inated by carefully avoiding the use of any manure which is not thoroughly rotted. Fresh manure is the reason of their presence. Of the animals which destroy the fruits of the gar- dener’s labors, the most destructive, where he exists, is the rabbit. \Vhere there is one rabbit there are apt [ 147 ] UNCUT SPREAD UNCUT SPREAD GARDEN PORTRAITS or even the larger water snake—is utterly helpless, and exceedingly useful in destroying innumerable harmful worms and insects. I confess that it has often made me indignant to see them, perfectly helpless as they are, attacked and destroyed, often with unneces- sary cruelty, when they were doing their best to escape, and when they have done nothing to deserve it—in- deed, have, if the gardener only knew it, greatly les- sened his own labors by the destruction of insects. While we may not care for a pet snake as a part of the permanent equipment of the garden, let us con- sider the services of the chance one or two which may wander in, and content ourselves with driving them quietly away. 0f the diseases which affect plants, a. few may be mentioned here. The rust, or turning yellow of the leaves, which later drop off, is a pest common to holly- hocks and delphiniums. To the remedy for this I am indebted to Mrs. Albee’s helpful book on cottage gar- dens. Thick suds of Ivory soap and cold water, ap— plied to the under side of the leaves, will check the trouble in a marvelously short time, although more than one application will probably be necessary if the remedy is to be effective. If the first application be made before the disease shows itself, when the plants are coming into leaf, it may be entirely prevented. The withering of the leaves of antirrhinums and [ 150 ] GARDEN FRIENDS AND FOES' dahlias may be traced to insects, and to counteract this, mixtures may be had which will check the trouble. The same thing may be said for the yellowing and wilt- ing of aster plants—by the way, any aster attacked by the “yellows” should be at once removed. Bordeaux mixture, in varying proportions, is the best remedy for mildew—another cause of the yellowing of plants; while the yellowing of the leaves of the gladiolus, gen- erally indicative of “black rot,” means that the bulb should be removed before the trouble spreads. The bulb—like the roots of peonies which turn yellow and show blighted buds—should be soaked in the fall in a five per cent. solution of formaldehyde, and reset in a new place. A dusting with sulphur before planting is an excellent preventive of disease in lilies. As a matter of fact, many of what we ordinarily con— sider diseases of plants are traceable to insects, while other troubles in the plant world are due to improper surroundings. If beds be well made, enriched with well-rotted manure and with a generous sprinkling of lime to drive any sourness from the soil, the margin of disease will be appreciably reduced. It is generally easy to procure “airslaked lime” as it is called, for this use, but if it be not available, the pouring of a little water on ordinary lime will serve the purpose. Sour soil—which may easily be recognized by its ten- dency to grow moss—is responsible for many of the [ 151 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS gardener’s troubles. Again, it is surprising what the mere moving of a plant may do. The change of condi— tions may not, in some cases, be obvious to anyone; but evidently some unseen handicap must have been removed or some unsuspected need of the plant be filled, for the mere moving often seems to turn a puny, strug- gling blossom to a mass of bloom. There are, of course, too many diseases to which plants are subject to be enumerated in a chapter of this kind. Conditions vary so widely, that in the case of trouble, it is well to have recourse to the advice of a reliable nurseryman. The difference between mildew, “yellows” and “black rot,” obvious to the expert, is not so to the amateur, and a large part of the garden lore of such matters is best learned from the inspection of the workings of one’s own domain. In a wonder- fully short time, however, it is possible to recognise the various signs which point to one cause of any given trouble, and cautious experiment results in the appli- cation of one remedy or another, or the moving of a plant from certain conditions to certain others, so that, ultimately, the difficulties incident to your garden will appear before you almost in tabulated form. A plant which is subject to a certain disease with one person, is frequently, under different conditions, immune from the trouble in question; so the thing for the amateur gardener to bear in mind is to work out, on the basis [ 152 ] GARDEN FRIENDS AND FOES' of generalities which can be given him, the scheme best suited to his own needs in his own garden, and to re- member that among flowers, as among human beings, health is the normal condition and disease the abnor- mal, and not to be content until his garden is strong growing and free flowering, as every well regulated garden should be. [153] Trees med T ree P/am‘zfig 535', we may n/ ’JV'“ ‘3‘ Trees and Tree Planting CHAPTER XVI TREES AND TREE PLANTING OW that the enthusiasm for gardening has come into its own, there is hardly a yard, either in town or country, which does not boast its quota of more or less skilfully arranged shrubs or blossoms. The average amateur gardener, however, is but too apt to forget a third form of vegetation which is at once less trouble than the garden, and far more effective than the shrub. This is the obvious but too often neglected tree. Roughly speaking, trees are used for one of three purposes. The first, street planting, is that which is most apt to come within our ken. Frequently, espe- cially in new towns and “developments,” certain trees are planted along certain streets; and householders are asked to “do their hit” by purchasing and setting out those which are to stand before their homes. The se- lection is generally made by a committee, often upon a very slight knowledge of the subject, based, perhaps, upon other plantings which have been made elsewhere under their observation—perhaps not particularly suc- [154] TREES AND TREE PLANTING cessful plantings, but still,——one must have something, and there are not so very many kinds of trees, and we must stick to those we’ve seen, for anything out of the common way probably will not grow or else we should have seen it—and so the decision is made. This method of selection, perhaps, may account for the wide-spread planting of the soft maple in Ameri- can small-town streets. The choice of this tree is one against which the tree-lover should, and the tree- knower will, protest. The soft maple is a fast grower, but is awkward in its habit, short-lived, is brittle and frail. It is not as decorative as many of its sturdier brethren, and when so many better trees are to be had at no greater trouble or expense, its popularity is not to be understood. For streets, no tree is superior to the Norway maple. With its symmetrical form and luxuriant foliage, Which turns so beautifully in the fall, no other maple surpasses it. It grows with fair rapidity and is sturdy and resistant. The linden is also good for work of this kind, its only fault being its blossoms, which in their season litter the sidewalks beneath profusely, and send forth an odor which is, to many persons, over- powering. Apart from this; the linden is of value be- cause of its rapid growth, its good shape, and the shade which it provides in summer. The Oriental plane tree has, in addition to the advantages of the [ 155 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS linden, a desirable quality in its odd and striking trunk, and the fruit which decks it through the winter, making it attractive when its foliage is gone. The horse chestnut, as no one who recalls the Champs Elysées will deny, produces a luxuriant and beautiful effect as an avenue tree, especially during the spring, when it is covered by heavy masses of pink or white blossoms. The American elm, too, is one of the best trees for street use, growing with fair rapidity, living for many years, and, When a fair growth has been at- tained, making a delightfully picturesque arch over the street. Of late there seems to be a reaction against the elm, and it cannot be denied that there are other trees which are more enduring; but in view of the num- berless elms which are known to have passed the cen- tury mark, it seems as if the charge of undue fragility cannot be fairly brought against it. The various varie— ties of poplar and oak are also sturdy and decorative trees for street use. Among trees to be used as screens, the evergreen is, for obvious reasons, the best where it can be used. It is, however, too rapid a grower for invariable use. The Norway spruce, for example, is frequently well spoken of for this purpose; but the drawback to this—- as well as to many of the other conifers—is the greatly increased area which it requires as it increases in growth. I have in mind a clump which was originally [ 156 ] TREES AND TREE PLANTING set out to form a hedge. When I first knew them, per- haps five-and-twenty years later, the barrier which they provided was complete, both as to sight and pas- sage, but it had proved necessary for a very large space, increasingly expanding, to be allotted to them, while their height had increased until they might not only have shut out the offending View many times over, but so that they actually made a gloomy corner of the spot where they stood. To be sure, in themselves they were magnificent trees, and of a certainty also, many a gardener does not plant for posterity, or even with the idea of any very great permanence; but if the home which is being planted be considered as one where many years are likely to be passed, this point is one which may well be borne in mind. Under these limita- tions, too, the white or Austrian pines may be recom— mended. Perhaps the most satisfactory “screen tree” apart from the evergreens is the Lombardy poplar. These trees are among the most rapid of growers, and if planted close together, in a very short time will form a perfect screen. As they take up little room on ac- count of the peculiar conformation of their branches, they should be “staggered” or planted' in a group. I have seen three such trees, planted in a city back-yard, form a group which reached really imposing propor- tions, and which completely fulfilled its purpose of [ 157 ] GA EDEN PORTRAITS shutting out the windows of a neighboring apartment house. In considering trees for decorative planting, the list is so long that one hardly knows where to begin upon this fascinating subject. Of them all, the flow— ering trees are the most attractive for the purpose, and among these none is' superior to the red or white flow- ering thorn, so universal in England and so unappreci- ated here. The English laburnum is a charming growth, in appearance something like a tree variety of our own yellow broom or forsythia with its mass of golden blossoms. Unfortunately, however, this tree will not grow in northern latitudes, although in the warmer states it may be enjoyed to one’s heart’s con- tent. Our own dog-wood, on the other hand, is strong, and for beauty can hardly be surpassed by any flower- ing tree. It should be mentioned that this tree has a tap-root which may not be out if it is to live. For this reason transplanting is so difficult a task that it will be found best to purchase a nursery-grown specimen which is sure to be shipped to you in good condition. The flowering almonds, too, are the very incarnation of spring, as they gleam shining in the posts where you have stationed them; while who has not welcomed the message of the magnolia—that brave pioneer which unfolds its petals of white or rosy bloom before the very leaves themselves, and too often pays for its [ 158 ] TREES AND TREE PLANTING bravery by the mourning of blackened buds which mark the passing of the short, bright little lives at the merciless touch of frost? As some writers group the laburnum and the mag- nolia among shrubs—to which category the flowering almond certainly belongs—perhaps we may wander far enough afield, from trees to cast a hasty glance, en passant, at a few of the shrubs which add especially to the beauty of the garden. Of these the first is un— doubtedly the lilac, dear to the hearts of the lovers of the old-time garden. Amazingly improved from the earlier varieties, it has sacrificed nothing of its hardi— ness and its unconquerable love of life to its increased beauty and, if the word may be used, its increased refinement. It may be had in a variety of tones of lilac, white and pale pinkish mauve; of them all the lovely white Madame Lemoine is perhaps the best worthy of mention, although it is difficult to award the palm of beauty to any variety of this most satisfactory plant. The laurel, the azalea and the rhododendron are also excellent flowering shrubs, and may, in the vicinity of New York, be obtained in the woods and transplanted to the garden without any great search being neces- sary. The forsythia, the weigelia and the Spirea Van H outeii are also exceedingly desirable additions to the shrubbery about the house. If planted in clumps to- gether, blooming as they do one directly after the other, [159] GARDEN PORTRAITS the corners where they are given a home will be yel— low, pink and white in succession through a great part of the spring. The forsythia, especially, is perhaps the only plant which, seen as it is in every yard, large or small, during the early spring, never irritates and never wearies with its ubiquity. It may be the beauty of the flower, and it may be merely the sunny, cheer- ful appearance which it is almost the first of the flow- ers to show forth; but there is no gainsaying its im- mense and deserved popularity. A path, bordered by forsythias which had grown to such a height as to form a golden arch above it, lingers in my mind as one of the loveliest incarnations of approaching summer that I can recall. The deutzia, the sweetly scented syringa, the Jap— anese snowball, are other good shrubs which will fill a need in every garden. The Hydrangea pa-niculata. must not be forgotten, with its great flowers which render it so decorative during the summer, and which, plucked after the last frosts, are almost as decorative during the winter in the house with their rich coppery tones, as well as combining the other advantage of being everlasting and not appearing so. The althea, the barberry and the Pyrus Japom’ca are mentioned elsewhere, in connection with hedges, their most suit— able place. The smoke tree (Rhus Cotinus) must not be forgotten, nor by any means must the calycanthus, that [ 160 ] TREES AND TREE PLANTING delightfully scented little shrub the brownish blossoms of which every child must, I think, have carried num- berless times in a warm little fist, and subsequently buried in a handkerchief box, in order to enjoy its fragrance. Of course fruit trees when in bloom are distinct additions to any yard. Even later, hung with rosy or golden fruit, they are exceedingly decorative in ap- pearance, and the upright forms, as well as cspalz'ers, trained against a southern wall, may be utilized with excellent effect. Then there is the mountain ash, with its scarlet berries, which besides its bright appearance, has the additional advantage of attracting to its neigh- borhood the birds, which love to feast upon its fruit. Continuing the transition from flowering tree to fruit tree and from fruit tree to foliage, the varieties of copper colorings, notably the copper beech and copper maple, sue for recognition, while the odd shade of blue so universally popular in Koster’s blue spruce must not be forgotten. Among the other trees which are suitable for decora- tive planting, the birches and willows make a fine show- ing. A clump of white birches in a corner is a sight to conjure with 0’ moonlight nights, while even in the daytime the delicate growth, touched with trunks of glistening white, seems to open up the outskirts of fairyland. A great chestnut or an oak, standing ma- [161] GARDEN PORTRAITS jestically upon a lawn at a distance from any other tree, gives a touch at once imposing and artistic. No one, as far as I know, has treated shadows on the lawn with the attention which they deserve; but it is a sub- ject well worth the studying, and the sunny slopes, touched here and there with a heavy mass of shade, will shine forth all the more brightly for the contrast. And for that shade, the compact mass of oak or chestnut, the charming curve of the elm, or the shadow of a clump of tulip trees, at once so tall and so graceful, will furnish just what is needed to complete the set- ting of the picture. Among the trees which may be set about the lawn the Camperdown elm makes an excellent substitute for a summerhouse, and is especially popular in a family where children form a part of the household. And no mention of decorative trees would be complete without a mention of the king of them all—the cedar of Lebanon, which can be had in this country, and which is well worth a trial, in spite of its exceedingly slow growth. This tree should be purchased as large as pos- sible, since it will, in all likelihood, only imperceptibly increase during the lifetime of the buyer. It stands out imposingly, so black against the landscape that everything about it seems to take on a paler hue, and even the smallest cedar boasts the peculiar dignity, somewhat reminiscent of that of the Japanese dwarf [162] TREES AND TREE PLANTING tree, which is an integral part of the charm of this variety. .. It will be found well worth while, in selecting trees, to consider how they will appear, not only in the sum~ mer, but in the autumn, as their colors change. For ex- ample, the oak turns copper-colored, and the chestnut, yellow; a countryside in which these trees predominate leaves something lacking to the observer because of the want of crimson. This may be added by the maples, according to their variety and situation. One, sprung up wild beside a country house, turns such a vivid red each September that the light reflected from it throws a rosy glow upon the walls and ceilings within. Such an eflect is charming when it can be obtained; but in any case, your planting will have failed of its full effect unless the crimson of your maples, the gold of your tulip trees, the deep yellow and red-brown of your oaks, may blend together when Jack Frost waves his wand, so that the spirit of October may be manifest in your garden. In planting trees, those which lose their leaves in winter are best planted in October or November. A thick mulch about their roots protects them, and gives them needed nourishment. Evergreens are best planted a little earlier. This does not mean that trees cannot be set out in the spring. This system has many advo- cates, provided only the planting be done before the [ 163 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS new leaves appear. The earth in which the tree is to be set should be well enriched with manure, and it is of the utmost importance that the hole dug to receive it should be large enough to hold the roots without squeezing, when they are spread out. Failure to do this is a prolific cause of losses of sturdy stock. The tree once inserted, the roots should be covered with soil, and well packed down. It is well, in planting, to leave a little depression about the tree, which may, each day, be filled with water until the growth is estab- lished. A frequent source of the loss of trees is in- sufficient water at this critical stage, and I have known small evergreens, apparently dead from this cause, to come to life surprisingly when dug up and carelessly “heeled in” beside a brook or lake. Trees which ar~ rive before preparations for receiving them are com- pleted should be “heeled in” until the ground is ready for their reception. If frozen, they should be put in a place where they will thaw out, and kept there until planted. It should be remembered that the planting of new trees should be done with care. A tree is not like a flower—it is a matter of more difliculty to obtain, and once planted, is planted for all time. For this very reason especial pains should be taken to make a wise selection, and not merely to put in any given place the first tree which may occur to your mind. And, your [ 164] TREES AND TREE PLANTING trees once planted, before you lies a lifetime of shade, of bloom and of beauty, which will be yours at the cost of no further trouble or expense. Surely the setting out of trees is well worth While, and he who plants one, plants at the same time a source of pleasure which is his forever. [165] Wifidow $096 Gardeizmg f I HE ivy grim/Mm 1'; 11 won‘ J‘zll‘iffllz'M/LV p/am‘ for [VJ/'1‘]! or ref/Mote lmx gard- H/i/lg, wit/1 if; lux/Igizlg ”mum 0/“ ///.1‘/1r/}1/1r f0 Hug x y/m/I/u/ 50/va guy flm‘m'lzr. O)“ NH fax/'x'ol/J‘ ra/urx, f/I/ mil/1' /, Arr/111m f/z/ muff “muff-:7 [IE //I'JI‘ (fluf K.” :z‘il/(I’orz' flax {Ix/Mn: a'z’// [z/wwr i/Icuzr/a— My //(‘>/‘2)////u] 1‘0 fix osz/mu/ fly a mm— /21'/1m’ p/d/H/i/g‘ qr‘ tzpz'xg'l'f p/amx [II/J run/[21g c'i/Im‘, {MI/('1' 7017/ Jim/Mr- ”IN/f rut/1 ar/zrr Window Box Gardening CHAPTER XVII WINDOW BOX GARDENING F eyes are the windows of the soul, as is commonly said, the old proverb may also be interpreted as meaning that through the windows shines the soul of the house. Nor is this as fantastic an idea as it may seem at first—for who of as does not recognize the spirit which lies back of bare, unadorned windows, ill—kept porch and window boxes, or the plain bare house, however neat, which has no provision made for its adornment beyond the actual necessities, and the bright, cheerful one with snowy curtains, neatly drawn shades, and windows and front steps or porch—ac- cording to whether it lies in town or country—all a-bloom? Perhaps the greatest and most effective decoration which can be devised for the house in summer—or in winter as well, it may be said—is that of window boxes. These should be considered in the selection of the awnings, for it is of prime importance that their color and that of the flowers in the windows, should be in harmony. In winter, of course, the choice is simple, [ 166 ] WINDOW BOX GARDENING since awnings are not to be considered, and since the color scheme of the boxes must be green, and flowering plants cannot be used. In our northern latitudes, at least as far north as New York, it may be added that no plant will bear the rigor of the entire winter, unless it be exceptionally mild. Snow if brushed off box trees and dwarf shrubs as soon as it has fallen will make them turn brown less quickly than if it be allowed to stand; but even so, he who fills winter window boxes in the north must be content to see the plants die in February or early March, and for this reason the real plant lover will be likely to pass by this addition, charming though it be, to his winter’s decorations. But for summer? Consider first your color scheme. This will be carried out in awnings and window boxes, and must also be borne in mind in connection with the furnishings. If, for example, your porch furniture be green, and the outside woodwork of the house white, let the awnings be green and white, with the window boxes some prettily contrasting color—let us say pink or red~—which may be duplicated in couch covers and cushions. If the furniture be brown, and the timbers of the house brown, awnings of red or orange will be in order, while the window boxes should be in. red or yellow. With white enamel, or natural wicker, fur- niture, awnings striped in deep blue are excellent, and the window boxes should correspond to them in tone [ 167 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS as nearly as possible. Other combinations of color, equally good, will suggest themselves according to the circumstances which prevail. The boxes should be as large as possible, to ensure sufficient nourishment for the plants, and should not be filled too full, to admit of ample development. Holes should be bored in the bottom of each, to allow the escape of excessive moisture. The soil should be well fertilized, since, at best, the plants will have none too much space from which to draw their food. They should also be kept well cultivated, for in hot weather the earth will tend to shrink away from the sides of the box, and water given the plants will otherwise es- cape by this opening rather than through the earth. Ample watering, by the way, as well as sunlight, is the secret of window box success. The geranium is the most popular of all plants for window box culture, and no wonder. It is hardy until the arrival of cold weather, free blooming, and will bear considerable neglect, although responding splen— didly to kind treatment. It is now grown in many lovely shades, foreign to the stifi, old-fashioned flower, and is a real addition to any window. Many of the annuals also make good window box material, while the tender plants, such as the begoiiia and the calceo- laria, are also valuable for use of this kind. Generally speaking, boxes are more efiective if trail- [ 168] WINDOW BOX GARDENING ing and erect plants be alternated in the filling. The vinca may be mentioned as among the best of the former, and suited to any color combination. Other plants may be selected after the gardener’s fancy, care being taken to avoid those which tend to become “leggy” and overgrown. A mixture of perfumed blossoms will also give added charm to the boxes, espe— cially when the windows are open, and the scented air is wafted through them into the house. If flowers are selected which will not bloom for the entire season, care should be taken to set in the same box others, as is done with indoor boxes in the winter, which will carry on the work of flowering after the first are gone. In this way the box will never be without color. The life of every plant, of course, may be prolonged by careful plucking off of the seed pods as the flowers fade. Here are a few suggestions for window boxes of different hues: PINK A. Beauté Poitevine geraniums and vinca vines. B. Pink begonia, pink and white bellis, pink verbena. C. Pink and white fuchsia, pink ivy geranium. [ 169 ] gm?» GARDEN PORTRAITS Pink antirrhinum, pink asters, pink Phlox .D m mmondii. YELLOW French marigold, yellow nasturtiums. Yellow begonia, wallflower, portulaca. Calceolaria, vinca Vines. RED Dwarf cockscomb, coleus, crimson dark red sweet William. Crimson geranium, trailing fuchsia, antirrhinum. Salvia, scarlet geranium, wild cu— cumber. BLUE H eliotrope, ageratum, purple ver- oena. Petunia, coleus, ageratum, heliotrope. Purple morning glory, single petunia. WHITE White antirrhinum, sweet alyssum, white maurandia. ‘Vhite bellis, white aster, White pansy. [ 170 ] WINDOW BOX GARDENING There are, of course, infinite variations of these ideas, which can be carried out with due regard to in- dividual needs. There are no fast rules in window box gardening, as there are not in any other. I have seen, in certain parts of the city, sunflowers growing successfully in window boxes, and admired the wise thought of their owner, who shut out the squalid street from his sight by a solid wall of green reaching the entire length of his window. Vines may be used in the same way, to shut out an unpleasant View. The lati- tude permitted by the window box is at times amazing. As the amateur progresses, he will work out more elab- orate combinations for his tiny window garden, and combine shades into a harmonious Whole, instead of clinging to the more simple formula; which satisfied him at first, and will in time work out original and striking color schemes of his own. All the chances of success are largely in his favor, and he will find that his small—scale gardening is giving him as much pleasure and nearly as thorough an acquaintance with his flowers, and with others which he longs to know, as his neighbor has, whose gardening is done on a far larger scale. [171] ‘ v\ “r"; 3 ‘ ‘ a”: '0' Flowers or Cuttiflg F lower; for Cutting CHAPTER XVIII FLOWERS FOR CUTTING HERE are as many different kinds of gardeners, it is hardly needful to observe, as there are men and women. There are those who go about the garden armed with scissors, clipping oft flower heads and let- ting them fall upon the ground because “the house is full of flowers, and there is nothing more to do with them, if they are to be kept blooming”; there are those who regard their flowers as they might favorite children, and who avoid cutting them whenever it is possible, preferring to see them bobbing their bright little heads in beckoning invitation to come out and play with them in the garden, to watching them die slowly in the house. Nevertheless, the average gar— dener has a decided penchant for flowers about him, within the house as well as without; and for such gardeners it may be well to suggest a few varieties of blossoms which chiefly lend themselves to purposes of cutting. There is a. feeling among some flower-lovers who enjoy cut blossoms that if too many be plucked the [ 172 ] FLOWERS FOR CUTTING garden will lack the luxuriance which is one of its chief charms. While in a large or prolific garden such cutting is rarely felt to any noticeable degree, the feel- ing that this result may ensue often prevents the gar— den owner from filling his hands with bloom to the extent which his feelings would otherwise suggest. Especially is this the case when two or three house- holds have access to the same garden. Against such possibility of mischance the possessor of a garden in Connecticut made happy provision. A In addition to her own flowers she had, in a corner of the large grounds which encircled her country place, where stood a few cottages rented to near friends and relatives who shared with her in the privileges attaching to her realm, a “cut flower garden.’ ’ This was one, made with no eye to beauty save that which must be incidental to every garden, laid out upon the order of a vegetable garden, with plants which were best adapted to pur- poses of cutting. Here the seeker for cut flowers might come and help himself with the full knowledge that he was sure of marring no carefully planned beauty thereby; and the arrangement was a godsend to those who were, by its owner’s kindness, permitted to share in it. The owner of a lovely garden in Northern New Jersey, when applied to for her first choice in regard to a flower suitable for cutting, announced that she [ 173 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS had three—dahlias, dahlias, and dahlias again. It is true that these are exceedingly well adapted to cutting. They last long in water and the brilliancy of the plant itself—none too great, in a general way— is enormously enhanced by the very much greater num- ber of flowers which reappear to replace those which have been taken from the parent stem. A close second to the dahlia—which, by the way, comes in early or late blooming varieties—is the gla- diolus. This may be had at any time after the end of June by successive plantings, and will prove well worth the slight increase of trouble which is necessitated by this procedure. The gladiolus plant should not be entirely out; the flower and its stem alone should be removed, as the presence of some part of the growth is essential to ripen the bulb. If leaves be removed, as is sometimes done to procure a little greenery, they should be taken from a plant where the flower is to be left. The gladiolus lasts in water perhaps longer than any other flower, and, constantly opening new buds as it does so, affords a pleasant variety to the ordinary cut flower in the house, whose story is generally one of sad deterioration from day to day. The chrysanthemum and the Zinnia are good flowers for cutting because of their lasting qualities and their brilliancy, but both are open to the very real objection that, unless the water in which they are placed is [ 174 ] FLOWERS FOR CUTTING changed from day to day it becomes exceedingly offen- sive. The cosmos, though decorative in the garden at a season when decorative flowers are few, is almost as well worth growing for its cut-flower properties as it is for its effect outside, so satisfactory is it in this regard. Both this and the gladiolus, by the way, prove their excellent capabilities in this direction by their constant presence in restaurants, Where, certainly, flowers are desired which will last as long as possible, without en— tailing the trouble and expense of a change. Most of the blossoms mentioned have been fall flow- ers; are there none, then, suitable for cutting in the spring? Indeed there are; and one of the best is one which blooms among the first—the lily of the valley. These flowers, by the way, should be pulled, instead of removed by cutting as is usually done. The narcissus, too, is one of the best of the flowers for cutting, under the restrictions imposed for gladioli. The tulips are less attractive, because of the difiiculty of arranging their heavy, nodding heads, as well as because they have no foliage, although this deficiency can be rem- edied by the friendly aid of smilax and asparagus; apart from these difficulties, they light up extremely well under artificial light. The peonies are magnificent for cutting, with their wonderful heads of bloom; while later, in early summer, come four flowers which are not only suitable for cutting, but which must be [ 175 ] ”GARDEN PORTRAITS kept out if a continuation of bloom be desired—the pansy, the sweet pea, the mignonette and the nastur- tium. The two latter, if kept cut, will give a wealth of bloom all summer, the nasturtium being especially hardy and free-flowering. The first of them is apt to give some trouble to the flower-lover because of its difficulty to arrange effectively._ The best results may be obtained by filling a shallow dish or bowl with sand, thoroughly wet, and standing each pansy upright in it. Treated in this way the cut pansy will last several days, but unless constantly in water—and in a handful of the pretty short-stemmed things, how many will be so? —they fade with great rapidity. For this reason, while they are fitted for house decoration if they can be given careful supervision and constant care, it is by no means safe to order a bunch of them sent a friend, or to dec— orate a pansy basket for church fair or bazaar. The chances are that, after hours of painstaking work, you will find when preparing to deliver it that your care- fully arranged pansies are wilting thoroughly and hopelessly. In contrast to this unpleasant habit of the pansy, mention may be made of the petunia. I do not per- sonally care for this as a cut flower, but that is a mat- ter of taste, and certainly it is a delight to find one which revives in water so well. In a suburban town some years ago there lived an elderly gentleman who [ 176 ] FLOWERS FOR CUTTING every morning came to the station bearing a paper bag filled with the finest of what the catalogues call “giant frilled and ruffled petunias.” He used to distribute them among his fellow townsmen who were waiting for the train, and many a time have his blossoms, forgotten at the end of a long, hot day, and wilted out of all rec- ognition to such an extent that they were often dropped to the floor unheeded, when picked up and put into water, become, in a wonderfully short time, as fresh as when they were gathered, and apparently none the worse for their hard experience. Such blooms must surely have their value in the cut-flower world, even though their growth does not lend itself to the artistic groupings beloved of the interior decorator. Of other flowers suitable for cutting, the roses are, of course, satisfactory. So is golden glow, especially in a great gray pottery vase. So is phlox, the most useful of flowers in the house, as it is in the garden. The pyrethrums, too, are excellent, and last well when they are cut. So are the helenium, the sweet Mary (Monarda didyma) and the purple bergamot. Lilies, unfortunately, are not among the flowers which can be well used in cutting. Doing so, to use a technical term, “bleeds the bulb,” and I have never known one to do as well as it did before, after the flow- ers had been cut. As to water lilies, they are most charming, and in a big black glass bowl are really [ 177 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS ethereal in their beauty; the drawback to their use lies in the fact that it is practically impossible to know when they will close—I had almost said “on you,” so personal do their disobliging habits seem. It is said that they will not shut if picked when they are open; but sometimes they do close under such circumstances, sometimes to reopen and sometimes not; while lily con- noisseurs of considerable name and fame have been known to pluck with assurance lilies which followed exactly the same procedure—which inclines the ob- server to classify the use of out water lilies as a lot- tery, which can only be won by the gathering of many more than will actually be required so as to ensure a wide margin of safety in case of mischance. Mention has been made of the sweet pea, which was for the moment not considered in detail because of the more pressing delinquencies of the pansy. This is a most satisfactory plant for all purposes, and as has been said, grows better the more that it is cut. Its cul- ture is not difficult, hinging chiefly on the necessity of starting it early. A three-acre field in Massachusetts, some years ago, was planted along one entire side in a solid mass of the flowers. No one went down the road when their owner was sitting by his door who did not receive a hearty invitation to come in and help himself; and no one declined it, for the sight in its luxuriance and beauty attracted the attention of every passer-by. [ 178 ] FLOWERS FOR CUTTING The sometimes rather shamefaced thanks of the visitors who came out laden with enormous armfuls of the blossoms were always received with the kindly assur- ance that the flowers bloomed better if they were well picked; and certain is it that the display which went on all summer, and for several summers, amply bore out the truth of the statement. It may be noted, how- ever, regarding the question of sweet peas for cut flow- ers that, though satisfactory enough for ordinary pur- poses, the delicate pastel tints of the blossoms lose something of their beauty on the second day. This is obvious in places where the flowers are, so to speak, on show, though hardly so elsewhere. In such a case, the flowers should never be plucked until the day when they are needed. At a recent wedding the bouquets of the bridesmaids, though apparently fresh, had ob- viously, to the eye of the sweet pea connoisseur, been made up on the preceding day. One consideration of cut flowers should be taken up in particular—their use in table decoration. During the flower shows in New York this use of them has been recently featured, and with really memorable results. One table, the living incarnation of spring, was decorated in narcissi, whose white petals and little yellow centers rose most effectively from vases of the palest apple-green Venetian glass. Daffodils, too, gave a touch suggestive of the glories of the coming summer. [ 179 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS They were placed on a table over which two pale yellow runners were thrown, which crossed each other at right angles in the middle. At the four corners, each stand- ing upon a groundwork of yellow scarf, daffodils rose from vases, while the table was set with china in lus- trous iridescent tones of yellow. Larkspur was also used, although since blue is not among the colors which “light up” well, the darker varieties are ineffective in this use. Fruit, of various tropical kinds, was ar- ranged to form a most striking center decoration. Tu- lips, as has been observed, do not group well when cut, but a good table adornment may well be composed with a pot of tulips as its central motif, the pot itself being concealed by any one of a variety of expedients. One of the lovehest of arrangenunfis, not novel but not easily surpassed, consists of an extensive use of pink rambler roses, piled high in a glass or crystal basket, twined about its upstanding handle, and trailing over the table. Indeed, in the summer, when the garden is at its height, an infinite variety of color schemes is open to the table-decorator, and his only difficulty is to choose from among them that best suited to his needs. [ 180 ] Qam’m Warnings UL T1]?! T1 ON 13' of [5— pz‘a'zz/ ill/parrwm‘ 1'21 tlu‘ gar- dm, a; if HIM/r5 tlw mill M 101% into f/It' (art/1 (1711/ fn‘c‘ My i/Ig/wdirzm 1'71 f/Ic‘ mi/ _/‘}'0711 coll/(11 f/zt 15/117123 05min f/m‘r fwd. T116 L‘Il/fif'tlfw‘ i; 1171 rm‘zlfm/ ill t'c‘grnzé/c‘ fizrmillg, (Uzi/a r5721 among flaw”; it may 0/117] 1121‘ 11m! to 1111'5'117/f1101‘ ‘\ _',/7HE1\' f/Iz' rate." 1172' {rm/v ”Id/Xvi om, f/Iz‘ J‘L‘c‘d’! an .rprizl- Un/ (urgf'lfl/y xz/wlg 1/11‘7/1. iv 11 gz‘zlxm/ fix/r, m; .rr‘m’ .r/Io‘lz/u' &r KHz/inf mm? r/m/I be/r fill/(IF 1'1‘I 02'1‘1.’ d'rpt/I. It {177/ 1121‘ fat/111i 1'11 [Naming flatz'c‘rx Mat 11 ”1.151 pfiwrizig of th'z‘m/ ram fogrf/n'z', 111' XIX/'1' .rZ'ax'wz, \ mars {fiE'rfi‘r'r {Xxx/1 .r1’lzg/c' 1712/51 qf:flo‘:z'z‘7'.r, (”IT/1 701w; .rlzpparrm' I2} yin/1AM Vanni {far/1r,” fluvrrjf‘ftllvi 5”] {if III"- ."Iu'r' CHAPTER XIX GARDEN WARNINGS HERE are a few general directions for plant culture which it is well for all garden-lovers to bear in mind. While many of these are simple, knowl- edge of them is likely to prove of assistance to the unpracticed in garden lore, although, of course, so much depends upon soil and local conditions that sug-. gestions of a more detailed character must necessarily lose much of their practicality in vagueness. Here are, however, a few suggestions, some of which will be found mentioned in the preceding pages, upon which the successful garden may safely be said to have its foundations. First of all, no plant will grow successfully upon a slope. If the bed be upon a hillside, it should be built up upon its lower edge until it is at least practically level, the lower edge being held up by stones, or by a wood or a cement border. Such borders, though ugly in themselves, may be made inconspicuous by the train-. ing of a vine over them, if they be of stone or concrete, or by the use of a little dark green paint if they be of [ 181 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS wood. Unsightly though they be, they are a real neces- sity of the hillside garden, and a surprising difference will be noted in the appearance of a bed which has been struggling along without them, after they have been supplied. Watering is to some extent necessary in the garden, but it is surprising to how great an extent it may be eliminated, except during drought or other such un- usual circumstances. Plants may to some degree be accustomed to little water; and in a garden of any great extent watering is a difficult problem, since it must be remembered that a little water is worse than none. A small quantity of water, which does not penetrate far below the surface of the earth, tends to draw the roots, seeking for moisture, up to it, thus bringing them away from the dampness of the earth beneath and up into the portion which is sure to be thoroughly baked by the summer sun. On the other hand, water is valuable to plants, not only to satisfy their thirst, but also to free the necessary food which they require from the soil, of which it is a part. The plant which dies of drought dies of hunger as well as of thirst. For these reasons, it is well to study the garden and to water only when it is obviously necessary, but then to water well. Cultivation, too, is a matter most important to the success of the garden. Soil, it is said—and many of [ 182 ] GARDEN WARNINGS us, doubtless, may here make a mental reservation in behalf of our own soil—contains all the ingredients es- sential to plant life, the only problem—to solve which we have recourse to fertilizers and other aids to growth —-being to obtain them. This is in large part done by frequent cultivation, which permits rain and damp to penetrate the earth deeply, thus not only nourishing the plant by its own virtue, but dissolving the neces- sary elements in the soil. In addition to this, by this process a dust mulch is provided, which is of great assistance in keeping the roots from drying out in dry weather. Transplanting is a task which is full of pitfalls for the beginner in gardening, although it surprises him, as he watches the more experienced gardener, to see what liberties may be taken with impunity by the ex- pert. There is one infallible method of transplanting known to most “flower fans,” although, both from the trouble which it involves and the sufficiently satisfac- tory results which usually come from a less tedious method, they are apt to ignore it. It consists merely in the filling of the hole, which is prepared for the re- ception of the plant, with water, and setting the plant in, filling up the water with earth. By this method, plants do not wilt down, but remain fresh and crisp, even in warm weather. To be sure, by simply setting them in and watering them later, good results are [ 183 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS usually gained in time; the plants may lie prostrate for a few days, but they generally regain their normal condition. In view of this, the increased trouble may seem taken in vain; but it is satisfactory to know that the young plants are wasting no part of their vitality in regaining strength which they should never have lost, and are devoting their uninterrupted energies to the task for which they were set out. This method is especially to be recommended in times of drought. In keeping the garden beautiful, no one thing can be compared in value with keeping the seed pods cut. Some flowers, like the sweet pea and the pansy, when seeds have been formed, stop blooming entirely, and, even where the flowers are not so exigearnt in this re- gard, it is surprising to What extent their period of bloom may be prolonged by this simple process. The hollyhock, for example, and the Canterbury bell, may be enjoyed for almost double their ordinary period of bloom by such treatment. There are also flowers, like the phlox and the anchusa, which will give a second crop of bloom in exchange for care in this regard. It may be laid down as a general rule that the garden should be gone over every few days and all the seed pods collected as far as possible. All plants should, if possible, be covered in the win- ter. In some cases they may survive without it, but the effort to do so saps their strength. Too heavy a [ 184 ] GARDEN WARNINGS covering is as fatal as too little; but practice, com- bined with a study of the natural habitat of the plant, and the climate of the place Where the garden is lo- cated, will serve as a criterion. Covering should be put on late and removed early. It should in its turn be covered with stones and branches so that the winter wind may leave it undisturbed. For plants which re- quire very heavy protection, boxes may be inverted, and the interstices between plants and boxes filled with dry leaves. A length of chicken wire may also be placed about them, and leaves piled between the Wire and the plant, as well as high over the latter. In covering, it should be remembered that the spring thaws are even more dangerous than the winter frosts. Of course a plant does not survive actual freezing; but neither, on the other hand, does it survive the thaw which draws it out of the ground before its time, only to subject it to the late frosts of spring. For this rea— son, the covering should be removed as early as may be, so that the early thaWs may not tempt the plant out to its destruction. If the covering be removed in time, the cold air will keep the plant from undue de- velopment. Although directions for culture of various sorts of blossoms are given under the headings of the names of the flowers themselves elsewhere in this volume, perhaps a few suggestions as to the general care of the garden, [ 185 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS necessary in spring as well as in the fall, will not be amiss in this place. As has been said, the beds should be uncovered as early as possible—by about the end of March, in the neighborhood of New York. At this time, too, grass seed should be sown where it is needed, and, if the season be dry, should be wet from time to time until it is firmly established. Of course this should be done by day, since the cold nights of early April are not conducive to the welfare of grass or any other plant which has “gone to sleep” thoroughly watered. The perennial seeds may be put in by the middle of April and the plants a few days later; while annuals should not be sown until later still, some being left as late as the middle of May. The one exception to this is the sweet pea, which must be planted as early as the ground can be worked. Failure with this plant, when all the pains in the world have been lavished upon it, may often be traced to the over-tenderness of its own- ers, who hesitated to sow it as early as is necessary for its success. Spraying the roses should also begin early, as has been said in a preceding chapter, as well as the removal of dead wood from the climbers and the pruning, if this was not attended to the preceding fall. The hollyhocks, as has also been mentioned elsewhere (see p. 150), should receive their first soapsuds bath as soon as two little leaflets are formed. Fertilizer as well as lime, [ 186 ] GARDEN WARNINGS which may easily be slaked (if this has not already been done), as has been earlier described, should be given to the beds as far as possible, but this task is none too easy of accomplishment. It is manifestly unsafe to try to dig it in about the roots of the peren- nials until they have made their appearance, and even then, if tulips or other spring flowers have been planted among them, or if they are set close together, the task is well-nigh impossible. A light mulch of manure may be administered safely, however, or the manure water from the pool, if diluted or if not poured directly upon the roots of the plants, is a satisfactory expedient. Failing these, one can only wait and seize a propitious time to fertilize each particular plant when the condi- tions abOut it render this possible. Of course there are various other smaller details in regard to the preparing of the garden for the glories of the summer. These are, for the most part, purely spe- cialized, as, for example, the surrounding of each lark— spur with coal ashes. It is well to refer to the plants individually and to make sure that no important need of any one of them had been passed over at this most busy of all busy seasons in the garden. For all, how- ever, proper staking is worthy of special notice, and with care this may be done so as to leave the appear- ance of the garden unmarred by the tight, constrained appearance which careless staking is but too apt to [ 187 } GARDEN PORTRAITS give. A most valuable second to the stake is the holder, which may be had at any dealer’s, to which a heavy circular wire may be attached by an ingenious device, and which permits a bushy plant to be held in place without undue constraint. It is particularly adapted to the peony which, as is mentioned elsewhere, blooms at the time of the spring rains and is but too apt to be bowed prematurely into unlovely muddiness and dis— coloration, from which it rarely recovers. If these holders be put about each one just before the time of bloom, the flowers will be appreciably longer lived, and will show their heavy heads to the best advantage dur- ing their all—to-brief span of days. In the securing of plants, another point may be men- tioned which has been touched upon before, but which cannot be too strongly emphasized. It may be divided into two heads. The first of them—a ‘ ‘ don’ ”-—-is, under no circumstances whatever, to purchase stock of grow- ers who advertise to send large collections of plants for absurdly small sums. Almost every flower enthusiast, who longs for a profusion of flowers, is at one time or another tempted by the glowing nature of these adver- tisements, and by the smallness of the sum involved. The results, however, are invariably as absurd as the price which is asked, which, small as it is, is high, in consideration of the value of the stock which is sup- plied. It is well worth while to deal with a reliable [ 188 ] GARDEN WA RNI N GS grower and to pay a higher price to secure stock which, in the first place, will live, and Which, in the second, you will wish to have live. The second of these heads may, at first glance, seem opposed to the former, although this is not the case, and has also been alluded to elsewhere. In almost all large cities are auction rooms where excellent stock can be procured at exceedingly low prices. Stock of this kind is umnercifully criticised by the dealers, al~ though in many cases they purchase it for their own use. A small purchase from the place in question will show you the reliability, or the reverse, of the dealer under consideration. Probably other garden enthusi- asts in your neighborhood can suggest some such place to you, if there be one in the vicinity; and should there be anything of the kind, the garden may profit greatly thereby, at an exceedingly small outlay. In the preparation of the garden, much has been said in preceding chapters. Since “a good tale will bear telling twice,” it may again be repeated that there is almost no soil which is not the better for a generous dressing of powdered lime,—which should of course be slaked before using,—and which should be showered upon the surface of the ground just before a rain, if possible, or washed in with the garden hose. Fertil- izer should be applied from time to time—if leaves from the compost heap be applied as a covering in win- [ 189 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS ter, the ground will benefit thereby. Manure water from the water garden will also be of benefit to the plants. Only well—rotted manure should be used; cow manure is better than horse manure, although both are good. Either is better than chemical fertilizer, al- though this is, in its way, a desirable aid as well. Given sun, if possible a sheltered place—although even this is unnecessary—good earth, and care along these lines, and the growing of flowers will be found a sur- prisingly easy task! [190] Tbe W076 60777777077 Qardm Flowers a77d H ow to Grow - 7726M T/yc’ Hf/Zf/ULVJ‘ZIWZ or J/raw flower, 1'; an wer/mtz'zzg flan/”71, ofyzmz'm appmr- mm, and gay rm’ or W"//0’ZC No flower (117/ mr— pm; r/zfl foxg/ot'g or [£78 Cafi/erémy érfl 1’72 émzztv or I'll graze a r. ‘ ’4”: . M‘ “~55.“ ! ‘1; v 33'. %. 771x p/zymm‘gz'zz, [amid/(v {/26 [MM cur/My, 1‘; a pro/17% and (/t’fW‘flf/‘I’z’ p/zmt CHAPTER XX THE MORE COMMON GARDEN FLOWERS AND HOW TO GROW THEM ACONITUM (Monkshood). Perennial; dark and light blue; also a less strong yellow variety; June—July; height, two feet or more; in some climates may be treated as a vine. Requires rich, moist soil, pref- erably with some shade. Should be planted at a distance from the vegetable garden, as the root closely resembles that of the horse radish, but is highly poisonous. The seed requires months to germinate; propagation, therefore, is best done by division of the root. AGEBATUM (Pussy-foot). Annual; pale violet-blue; also white or pink; July to frost; four inches to two feet. The ageratum will succeed in any good garden soil. It is self-sowing to a considerable extent, and if faded flowers be removed, will bloom for the entire summer. Sow outdoors when dan- ger of frost is over. ALTHEA (Hollyhock). Perennial; all shades except blue; June-August; five to eight feet. Hollyhocks [ 191 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS should be given rich soil and a sunny position, and should be frequently watered in dry weather. They are heavily self-sowing, although the seed does not run true to strain. Once established, they will provide sufficient seedlings to obviate the necessity for further sowing. If seed is to be sown, let it be done in spring, and young plants removed to permanent positions before frost. The bloom may be greatly prolonged by care in plucking off seed pods as soon as they are formed. Give plants manure before blooming, and protec- tion in the winter. Hollyhocks are subject to “rust” (see p. 150). ALYSSUM. The annual variety is White and about one foot in height. There are also lavender and yel- low varieties. It blooms in June and continues at intervals until frost. It prefers sandy soil, and should be sown thinly to avoid resetting. The perennial variety (yellow, May) is perfectly hardy. It should have well-drained sandy soil, and full sun. It may be propagated by seed or by root division. ANCHUSA. Perennial; blue; blooming in June, and growing to a height of about five feet. There is also a dwarf variety. It does best in light, rich soil, and sun, but does well also in partial shade. Plenty of water and cultivation from time to time [ 192 ] THE MORE COMMON FLOWERS will improve it. If cut back, a second bloom may be had in August. As the root gets older, it de- teriorates, on account of its tendency to become hollow and to become waterlogged. It is fairly self-sowing, however, and therefore a bed may be left in safety for some time. Propagate by seed, and cover in winter. ANEMONE Japonica. Perennial; pink or white; September; about two feet. The anemone prefers rich, moist soil, and some shade. It should be given plenty of water in hot weather. It must also be heavily protected in winter, and even so is un- likely to survive in northern climates. When once established it should be disturbed as little as pos- sible. If seed be sown, it should be sown in the hot bed, and protected with paper until the young plants appear. When these are transplanted they should be set where they are to remain, a foot apart. Especial mention should be made, in speak- ing of this flower, of the variety known as Queen Charlotte, an exquisite shade of shell-pink. ANTIRBHINUM (Snapdragon). Properly speaking, a perennial, though in the north it must be treated like an annual. Every color except blue, blooming in June and July, and about two feet in height, although there are dwarf and tall varieties. This plant should be given light, rich soil, and ample [ 193 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS sun. The strength of the plant will be augmented if not allowed to flower too soon. Cutting off of the seed pods will prolong the period of bloom. The plant is subject to withering of the leaves (see p. 150), AQUILEGIA (Columbine). Perennial; pink, white, yel- low or blue, as well as the wild red-and-yellow va- riety. Blooming in May and June, and about two feet in height. The aquilegia should be provided with a rich, moist soil, and will grow in either sun or partial shade. It is self-sowing to some extent, although the seedlings do not come true. It is quite hardy, and requires little care. ASTER. Annual; pink, white or blue. These flowers bloom from August until frost, and vary from two to three feet in height. Each plant should be given a space of about six inches. It likes a light rich soil, which should be well mixed with lime if it tends towards sourness. Pulverized sheep manure seems to suit it particularly, and ashes spread about each plant are said to stiffen the stems, While they certainly help to keep away the pest, the aster beetle. The aster is also subject to “yel- lows” (see p. 151). Early sown plants seem more free from disease than those which are planted later. The perennial variety is closely allied to the wild aster of our native fields. [ 194] THE MORE COMMON FLOWERS BELLIS (English daisy). Perennial; pink or white; May; about four inches high. This flower does best in moist, rich soil under the shade of trees. It may be raised from seed sown about the middle of the summer, or the root may be divided in Septem- ber. It should be given protection in winter. CALENDULA (Pot marigold). Annual; yellow or white; June to frost; about eighteen inches in height. The calendula likes rich soil, and responds to wa- tering, although it does not require it. It should be sown thinly to avoid resetting, and plants will do best if about a foot apart. It will succeed with practically no care. CALLIOPSIS. Annual; red and yellow or yellow; bloom- ing from June until October, and about eighteen inches in height. This gay little blossom may be sown out-doors in May. It will thrive in almost any soil and should be given about a foot of space to each plant. CAMPANULA (Canterbury bell). White, blue, and a charming shade of delicate pink. It blooms in June and July, and by proper plucking off of seed pods the season may be prolonged considerably. There are various varieties, among which may be mentioned the persicifolia (perennial, three feet) and the lactifloria (perennial, four feet), and the three-foot, self-sowing Campa-nula medium—per- { 195] GARDEN PORTRAITS haps the most satisfactory of them all—with its close relation, the calycanthema, both of which are biennial. All of these will do well in any good soil, and in a sunny position. They should be protected in winter; and if possible it is well, though not necessary, to winter seedlings in a cold frame. CELOSIA. Annual; red or yellow; one to three feet; July and August. There are two varieties of this plant, the crista-ta, or old-fashioned cockscomb, and the phantom, or prince’s feather. Both do well in a light soil with frequent watering, while the plumosa is very powerfully self-sowing. If sown in May these will bloom in August, and it may be noted that the plants are strengthened by transplanting. CENTAUREA (Bachelor’s button). Annual; blue, pink, white; June—July; two feet. The annual variety will grow almost anywhere, if set in the sun, and should be given a six-inch space to each plant. They are heavily self—sowing, and require no care. There is also a perennial variety, which may be had in pink, white or yellow. CHEIRANTHUS (Wallflower). Biennial; yellow, red, white ; August ; one foot. This charming and sweet— scented little flower is not hardy in northern cli- mates, and so is best treated as an annual. If [ 196 ] THE MORE COMMON FLOWERS seed be' sown early in March, it may be set out in May. Plants should have rich, moist soil, and good sun; a space of from eight to twelve inches about each one will be found to be of benefit. CHRYSANTHEMUM. Perennial; red, pink, white, yellow. Blooming during September and October, these plants grow to a height of about three feet. The largest-flowered varieties sold by city florists are not hardy, but those which are so, are exceedingly satisfactory. The most hardy ones are of the pompon variety. Chrysanthemums need very rich soil with plenty of water and sun. They should also be well protected during the winter. The size and quality of the blooms may be in- creased by pinching off flower buds as they form, and only permitting a few to develop on each plant. If covered at night after the arrival of cold weather, they may be made to last until late in the fall. CONVALLABIA (Lily of the valley). Perennial; white; May; six inches. These blossoms do best in rich soil, mixed with leaf mould, and may be planted in a spot where they will have some sun, though be- cause of their willingness to bloom in the shade, shady places are usually awarded them. They should be set with the root-crowns just below the soil, and do not reach the height of their bloom [197] GARDEN PORTRAITS until two years after planting. They should be divided occasionally, in the fall or the early spring, and are benefited by a dressing of manure in Sep- tember. Coaaopsrs. Perennial; yellow; June until frost; two feet. The coreopsis will grow in almost any soil, if it be but given sun. It is sometimes a little hard to start, but once established, requires no care, and spreads rapidly. It may be raised from seed. COSMOS. Annual; pink, white or red; four to six feet. There are. both early and late-blooming varieties of this attractive flower, and of these, the late- blooming is the handsomer, but is sometimes avoided by gardeners because of its tendency to be overtaken by frost. If planted outdoors early, however, or started in the house in flats, even this variety may be enjoyed for some time before the cold weather takes its toll. While the cosmos is not over-nice in regard to soil, it requires sun and is benefited by plenty of water, though it does not demand it. It should be given a two-foot space, and should be carefully staked. DAHLIA. Every color except blue; August and Septem- ber; five feet. The dahlia may be grown from roots or seed. The latter should be started in doors before the frost is out of the ground. It [ 198 ] THE MORE COMMOI T FLOl/VERS does not run true, but often results in such beau— tiful variations of the parent bloom that its un- reliability is rather an advantage than a draw- back. In re-setting, seed-grown plants should be shaded when first put in. In handling the root, tubers should be set out three feet apart after danger of frost is over. After blooming they should be lifted, thoroughly dried, and stored in sand in a dry cellar, out of the way of mice and frost. In the spring they may be started, also in sand, the crowns set just below the top of the soil. When sprouted, the root may be divided, taking care to include in each division, an “ eye ’ ’ or bud, which will not be visible on the dry root. The dahlia requires sun and water, but not a particu- larly good soil. It is subject to the cutworm (see p. 146) and borer (see p. 147). DATURA. Annual; white; July; three feet. The datura should be given rich soil and a sunny situation. It may be Wintered successfully in the house, and when this is done will bloom earlier the succeed— ing year. DELPHINIUM (Larkspur). Perennial; blue and white; three to six feet. The plant blooms first in June, but if the seed pods be promptly removed a sec- ond blooming may be had in August. The del- phinium requires rich, moist soil and sun. It should [ 199 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS be given an eighteen—inch space, and is best propa— gated by division of the root, which should, for the good of the plant, be done every third year. The seed does not run true, and seed—grown plants do not come to perfection until their third year. The plants should be watered in hot weather. The blue varieties are more sturdy than the white, though all should receive covering in winter. Coal ashes and lime should be spread about each plant to prevent slugs and crown rot. They are also sub- ject to blight (see p. 150). The annual larkspur may be sown outdoors in May. Plants should be re- set to one foot apart. They will grow to a height of two feet and are to be had in pink, white, blue, lavender and red. DIANTHUS (Pink). Perennial; pink, white, red; June- July; one foot. There are numerous varieties of the pink, all of which do best in rich, well-fertilized soil. The caryophyllus, or clove pink is not hardy nor is, of course, the annual variety, Heddewigi (Japanese pink) ; but the old—fashioned garden pink (plumarius) is so, with protection in the winter. The dianthus barbatus, or sweet William, is a biennial, two feet in height, and may be had in red, pink or white. It is to some extent self- sowing, but should be renewed from year to year, as it has a tendency to run out. [ 200 ] THE MORE COMMON FLOWERS DIELYTRA (Bleeding heart). Perennial; pink; May; four feet. This should be given fairly rich soil, and prefers sun, though it will grow in the shade. It is propagated by division, and should be given ample room in which to spread. As the plant turns yellow and withers down after blooming, it is well to make preparation for concealing, by some later-blooming plant, the space which will be left by it in the summer. DIGITALIS (Foxglove). Biennial; pink, red and white. Blooming in June, and often attaining the height of six feet. The digitalis prefers rich, moist soil, and should have a space of two feet for every plant. It blooms in the sun, or in partial shade. If cut back after blooming, a second crop of flow- ers may be had in the late summer. It. is thickly self-sowing, and should be covered carefully in winter, the seedlings not being reset until the succeeding spring. DIMORPHOTHECA (African daisy). Annual; yellow; July to frost; one foot. The dimorphotheca is valuable where a mass of yellow is desired, and requires only ordinary garden soil and the full glare of the sun. Seed may be sown out of doors as soon as the frost is out of the ground. It thrives in the driest soil. ECHINOPS (Globe thistle). Perennial; steel blue; July; [201] GARDEN PORTRAITS four feet. This plant does well in any good garden soil, in full sun. It is exceedingly striking, with its flowers resembling balls of blue. EBYNGIUM (Sea holly). Perennial; blue; July; two and a half feet. This plant is another striking blue flower, and requires very sandy soil and sun. It is, however, exceedingly difficult to winter. FUNKIA (Day lily). Perennial; blue or white; three feet; August. The day lily should be given moist soil, with plenty of water during drought. It should be set in partial shade, and when once established, disturbed as little as possible. It should not be crowded, to which end it is well to enlarge the bed a little every spring, or to remove some of the plants, which may be propagated by root division very early in the year. GAILLARDIA (Blanket flower). Perennial; yellow; June until frost; two feet. This may be grown in any good garden soil, and should be given a one-foot space to each plant. It is propagated by seed. ' There is also an annual variety, lower in growth, in white, yellow or pink. GALEGA (Goat’s rue). Perennial; pink or white; July- August; three to four feet. The galega is a free- flowering plant, and requires sun and a rather rich soil. It should be allowed a considerable space—- from a foot to eighteen inches—to secure the best [ 202 ] TH E MORE COMMON FLOWERS effect, and may be propagated by seed or root division. GLADIOLUS. Bulb; all colors; two feet; August. Bulbs should be set three inches deep in rich soil and in a sunny spot. If planted in soil mixed with ashes, it is said that the stems Will be strengthened, but in ordinary soil this is not usually necessary. The deeper the bulbs are set, the less necessary Will staking the plants be found, although, of course, the period of bloom Will be deferred. Plenty of water and an occasional dressing of pulverized sheepmanure Will be found to produce beneficial results. After the bloom is over, the bulbs should be left in the ground until the leaves are thoroughly withered, and then lifted and stored for the Winter in a cool dry place. To ensure a succession of bloom, successive plantings may be made. The gladiolus is subject to black rot (see p. 151). GYPSOPHILA (Baby’s breath). Perennial; White; July; three feet. Perfectly hardy, and prefers a dry, sunny spot. Should be given at least a foot of space. Unlike other plants, the blooms of the gypsophila, When faded, should not be removed until the fall, as to do so results in injury to the plant. HELENIUM (Sneezewort). Perennial; red or yellow; August and September; five feet. Will thrive in [ 203 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS any good garden soil, but responds particularly to moisture. It spreads rapidly, and each plant should have, if possible, an eighteen-inch space. The roots are subject to the white aphis (see p. 146) and the plant itself to the black aphis (see p. 145). HELIANTHUS (Sunflower). Annual; yellow or red; Au- gust; six to eight feet. Any good soil, with plenty of sun and space—say, two to three feet. There is also a less showy perennial variety. HELICHRYSUM (Strawflower). Annual; red, yellow, pink, white; August; two feet. Any good garden soil and full sun. This blossom, which is of the everlasting type, should be sown where it is to grow, and does better if not transplanted. HEMEROCALLIS. Perennial; yellow or orange; June; three feet. There are two varieties of this plant, the yellow (fluent) and the tawny lily (fulva) so widely seen about the countryside that it may al- most be considered as a wildflower. There is apt to be confusion in obtaining the former, on account of the similarity of name, although there is no comparison between the two in point of desirabil- ity. While the fulva masses well at a distance, the flava is by far the more satisfactory. The former will flourish almost anywhere, and is absolutely hardy. The latter should have rich soil, with some moisture, and, as in the case of other lilies, no [ 204 ] THE MORE COMMON FLOWERS manure should be allowed to come in contact with the roots. Both spread from the root, and are propagated by division, although they should be left undisturbed as far as possible. HIBISCUS (Rose Mallow). Perennial; pink, white or red; July-August; four to six feet. This plant, although growing in swamps in its natural state, will also thrive in dry soil. It should be well pro- tected in the winter. HYACINTHUS CANDICANS (Summer hyacinth). Hardy bulb; white; July; three feet. Place in rich, well- drained soil and protect during the winter. Un- der these conditions the plant may be left undis- turbed for years. IBERIS (Candytuft). Annual; white or pink; June; one foot high. Will grow abundantly in any good soil, in a sunny situation. Sow thinly to avoid re- Setting. The perennial variety, also in white, closely resembles it, and is a foot in height. It may be propagated by spring-sown seed or by division, and requires the same treatment as the annual variety. IMPATIENS (Balsam). Annual; white and all shades of red and pink; two feet high; July. This blos- som will grow and sow itself under almost any conditions, if given fair soil and sun. It is heavily self-sowing, but is improved by transplanting. If [ 205 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS each plant be given considerable space—say six or eight inches—a. great improvement in the appear- ance of each one will result. IPOMEA (Morning glory). Annual; purple, pink, white; J Lily-August. This attractive vine does best in rich, moist earth. It is well to soak the seed for twenty-four hours in warm water before planting. The plant of the moonflower, another variety of the same family, does not grow so large, but puts forth very beautiful, large, white blossoms. It re- quires the same treatment. IRIS. Perennial; all colors; May-June; three feet. The German type of iris, which is the first to bloom, is perfectly hardy, and requires a well- drained soil with good sun. The Siberian type, which is next in flowering, will grow well in a moist spot, but does not insist upon it. The J ap- anese, which are the last to bloom, like an abund- ance of water, but as they must not be allowed to remain in wet ground during the winter, it is well to set them in a dry spot, and to furnish them with plenty of water, especially just before they bloom. The Siberian iris may also be treated in this way with success. After flowering, the plants may be divided, and the roots reset to half their depth. The new plants, however, will not become well established for some time. [ 206 ] THE MORE COMMON FLOWERS LATHYRUS (Sweet pea). Annual; all colors; July; five feet. In growing sweet peas, it must be remem- bered that it is essential to secure deep roots, in order that the plant may be able to draw sufficient moisture from the earth during the heat of sum- mer. To do so, a trench should be dug some eight inches deep, and the bottom of it filled with two inches of manure and a covering of good loam. Here the seed should be sown sparingly, as trans- planting is apt to be unsatisfactory, and the plants left where they are to remain, removing the weaker ones, if they become too crowded. As they grow, the trench may be filled up with earth until it is level with the surface of the ground. A further good method of inducing the roots to stretch out for their food is to dig another trench a few inches from the plant, and to fill it with manure. If water be poured into this every day, the roots of the plants will reach out to secure it. The sweet pea should be sown as early as possible, as a little cold weather will do it no harm. It must be set well in the sun. LIATRIS (Kansas gay feather). Perennial; purplish pink; July; four feet. This satisfactory plant will grow under almost any conditions, and is per- fectly hardy. It prefers good soil and partial shade, but may be utilized in dry situations where [207] GARDEN PORTRAITS garden conditions are untoward. It is propagated by seed or by root division. LILIUM. The various varieties of lilies are so many that it is impossible to give a full account of them here. Among those which should be found in every garden are the auratum (three feet; July; White with yellow banding on the petals and most de- liciously scented; very prolific, often bearing as many as ten enormous blossoms on one stem). This requires a well-drained, sunny situation, with wet soil. It should be set six inches below the sur- face of the soil and mulched, so that the surface of the ground may always be kept fresh and cool. Unfortunately in this country the bulb tends to deteriorate and finally to disappear. It should be planted in the fall. The speciosum types (album. rubmm and melpomene) bloom somewhat later, and should be treated in much the same way as the auratum. They may be set in partial shade. The Lilium candidum, or Madonna lily, blooms in June. It does not do well in moisture or shade, but should be given sun and a good rich soil. All lilies should be planted deep, and each bulb should be set in a handful of sand to prevent manure from coming in contact with it. They are all the better for a mulch of grass, as suggested for the Liliwm auratum. For disease preventive see p. 151. [ 208 ] THE MORE COMMON FLOWERS LONICERA (Honeysuckle). White and yellow; June- July. This hardy vine does well in any good soil and in the sun. It is never at ease as a climbing vine, however; and if possible should be given a stone wall or other such support, so that it may stretch itself out to its heart’s content. LUPINE. Perennial; pink, blue, White; May-June; three feet. This flower will do well in any good well-drained soil, preferably sandy. It should be given a one-foot space, and requires no protection in the winter. It is self-sowing to some extent, and may be grown from seed or by division of the root. It responds to watering, though it does not require it. LYCHNIS. Perennial; two feet. There are two va- rieties of this attractive blossom, the viscaria, which blooms in May and which is a striking shade of purplish pink, and the Chalccdonica, which flowers in July and is of a vivid scarlet, and some- what reminiscent of the verbena in form. The former grows in spikes, and 'is particularly hardy, resistant to drought and self—sowing. The latter is a strong grower, but takes some little efiort to establish firmly. Neither variety is particular in its requirements, but both do best in good soil and sun. MATTHIOLA (Stock). Annual; pink, white, lavender; [ 209 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS July; one foot. The stock is only a half-hardy an- nual, and should, therefore, if grown from seed, be started in the house in March or April, and will bloom approximately ten weeks after sowing. It will grow in any good garden soil, but prefers a rich one, with plenty of moisture, and ample sun. MATRICARIA (Feverfew). This plant, though listed as a tender perennial, is best treated as an annual. White; June to frost; eighteen inches in height. It is, if anything, too easy of culture, sowing it— self heavily, year after year, and threatening to take possession of the garden. It will grow any- where, but prefers good soil and sun. MIRABILIS (Four-o’clock). Annual; all colors except blue; August; three feet. This charming old- fashioned flower may be sown in open ground, and requires little care. It should be given a rich, moist soil if possible, but will grow under less favorable conditions. Especially valuable, if set about a foot apart, where a solid border or hedge is desired. It blooms, of course, only in half-light. MONARDA (Sweet Mary). Perennial; red; July-Au- gust; three feet. This exceedingly decorative and perfectly hardy plant, with its cousin, the purple bergamot, will thrive in partial shade or in full sun, and in any soil, although it prefers good loam. It grows fast and should be divided often. [210] THE MORE COMMON FLOW'ERS The division should be done, preferably, in the fall, but the plant is so hardy that liberties may be taken with it, and with care it may even be di— vided during the blooming season. MONTBRETIA. Bulb; yellow or red; August; one foot. Although listed as a hardy bulb, it will not be found safe to leave montbretia bulbs in the ground during the winter in the north—say in the latitude of New York. In climates which permit, however, this should be done. They cannot be depended upon to survive in the north unless the season is exceptionally mild. They may be wintered in damp earth in a cool cellar and set out in the spring. They need a moist, but well-drained soil and sun. MYSOTIS (Forget-me-not). Biennial; pale blue; May- June; six inches. Self-sowing to so great a de— gree that a bed once started will, even with con- siderable loss in wintering, keep the rest of the garden supplied with plants. They thrive in any good soil, and are hardy, though they are the bet- ter for some protection in cold weather. The swamp variety (palustris) is a perennial, and may be grown in any good soil, if not allowed to suffer from drought. NICOTIANA (Tobacco). The best variety of this plant is the aflinis, which may be had in white or (less [ 211 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS satisfactory) pink. Annual; July-August; three feet. So abundantly self-sowing that once estab- lished, it will be found unnecessary to sow again for many years. The plants prefer rich soil and partial shade, and do not open in the bright sun. If each plant be given an eighteen-inch space a surprisingly stout and handsome bush will be the result; they are also good in massing. The star— shaped blossoms are moderately decorative by day; their chief attraction is their delicious perfume, especially powerful at night, and in the charming showing which they make after dark. NIGELLA (Love-in-the-mist). Annual; blue (also a less desirable white variety); August. The only va- riety now procurable seems to be that eighteen inches in height, although in old-fashioned gar— dens this plant could be seen about twice that size. It should be sown in open ground in May, in any good soil, and when large enough reset, allowing a twelve-inch space to every plant. PENSTEMON. White, purple, scarlet; June—July; three feet. These plants may be sown indoors in March or outdoors in April, in partial shade, and rich, well-drained soil. They require plenty of water, but should not be allowed to stand in a spot which is damp in Winter. They should be covered in cold [ ‘312 ] THE MORE COMMON FLOWERS weather, and may be propagated by seed or by division. PEONY. Herbaceous shrub; pink, White or red; May and early June; three feet. In setting peony roots, the crowns should be three inches below the surface of the ground, and no manure should be permitted to touch the roots. They require ex- cessively rich soil, and may be placed in sun or shade. In the fall, the stems should not be cut, but bent down until they reach the ground, and a cov- ering of manure placed over the plants. This may be worked in in the spring. Water at flow- ering time will also be found of benefit. In the case of tree peonies, which form their flowerbuds the year before they bloom, the stems should not be bent, but, as they require considerable protec- tion, a wooden box may be turned over them, and the interstices filled with dry leaves. They are subject to a blight of the flowerbuds, and to yel- lowing of the leaves (see p. 151). They may be propagated by division of the root in September or October. It may be noted that the peony, which blooms at about the time of the spring rains, is often so crushed and beaten into the earth that it can be enjoyed for only a short period. If it be staked with an adjustable wire about it, its span of. life will be greatly prolonged. [ 213 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS PETUNIA. Annual; pink, white and purple; June to frost; two feet. Sow in March in the house, or outdoors in May, in any good soil and in the hot- test sun. Petunias will grow under practically any conditions, but will respond to care and fre- , quent watering. Each plant should have an eight- inch space, and the more ordinary varieties (among which may be mentioned the very prolific and free—flowering Rosy Morn) are heavily self- sowing. The double frilled and ruffled varieties are almost impossible for the amateur to raise from seed, and are best purchased from some re- liable seedsman. If attempted they should be sown in the finest powdered earth, and the seed pressed in with a board. Of these, it is noticeable that the weakest plants bear the finest blooms. PHLOX. Perennial; white, red, blue, purple, pink; Au- gust; four feet. The perennial phlox is the back- bone of the garden, and will grow under almost any conditions, though it prefers rich, moist soil. It is benefited by a working in of manure in sum- mer, and by occasional watering in hot weather. It is perfectly hardy, and is best propagated by division, since every plant is the better for division every third year, and the seedlings tend to revert to the all-too-common shade of purplish pink. It grows equally well in sun or partial shade. If [ 214 ] THE MORE COMMON FLOWERS faded flower heads be removed promptly, a second crop of bloom may be enjoyed late in the summer. The Phlox sublata, or creeping variety, is also a perennial, blooming in May, and requiring a sunny situation and protection in winter. The Phlox Drummwndii is an annual dwarf variety, a foot high, which if sown in May will bloom in July, doing best in light, rich soil and partial shade. Both are free-blooming, and useful where a heavy border or a carpet of flowers is desired. PHYSOSTEGIA (False dragon’s head). Perennial; pink or white; July-August; four feet. This plant re- quires almost no care, and does best in moist, rich soil and sun, though it is not particular as to its whereabouts. The plants may be given a two-foot space, as they spread rapidly, and are all the better for occasional lifting and division. This should be done in the spring. Perfectly hardy. PLATYCODON. Perennial; blue or white; July-August; three feet. A charming plant with great bell- shaped flowers, which is less well-known than it deserves. It will grow in sun or partial shade, in any good, well-drained garden soil. It is very hardy, and will succeed, even with considerable neglect. Best propagated by division, which should be done in the spring. POLEMONIUM (Greek valerian). Perennial; blue or [ 215 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS white; June; eighteen inches. If cut back after blooming a second crop of flowers may be had in August. Rich soil with partial shade and moisture is the preference of the polemonium, although it will succeed under less favorable conditions. It sows itself to some extent, but is best propagated by division of the root. PAPAVER (Poppy). Annual variety; red, pink, white; June-July; eighteen inches. This variety should be sewn in early May, in finely sifted soil. As the seed is fine, it is well to mix it with sand, and to scatter the whole over the bed; it should then be covered with a mulch of grass clippings which may be removed when it begins to sprout. The seed should be watered with a fine spray from time to time, and may best be set in sandy soil. Plants cannot be transplanted. They are to some extent self-sowing. The California poppy may be had in yellow and in white. It also is an annual, and like the Shirley poppy, will not bear transplanting. It is, how- ever, easier to grow. The Iceland poppy is, properly speaking, a per- ennial, but does best if sown every second year. It should have a good soil, sun, and covering in the winter. It may be had in white, yellow, or- ange and red. [ 216 ] THE MORE COMMON FLOWERS The Oriental poppy is one of the most beautiful additions to the garden. It is a perennial, and may be had in red, pink or white. (Especial mention should be made of the Princess Ena, a very lovely pink.) It grows to a height of three feet, and needs good soil and sun; while once established, it requires little care. The plants are propagated by seed or by division in August. Most of the failures in growing are due to an effort to trans- plant at the wrong season; but if care be observed in this, the Oriental poppy is at once easy to grow, and one of the greatest attractions of the garden in the spring. PORTULACA. Annual; variegated; two inches; July-Au— gust. The seed of this plant should be raked into the ground (more is not necessary) at the end of April, and when the plants are large enough, trans- planted to four inches apart. The soil should be rather poor and sandy, and in full sun. The mass of gay little blossoms with which the plants will be covered will add a touch of brightness to any spot where they are sown. PYRETHRUM. Perennial; all colors except blue; June; two feet. Give a rich, sandy, well-drained loam, with a mulch of manure in winter. If cut back after blooming a second crop of flowers will follow. The plants are propagated by division and by seed. [ 217 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS The double varieties, which are difficult to grow, are said to be responsible for the enthusiasm with which this flower is always mentioned in the seeds- men’s catalogues. The single variety, which is far more common, is free-flowering and pretty, but will probably disappoint those who have procured the flower on the recommendation of the seedsmen. RANUNCULUS (Fair Maids of France). Perennial; yel- low; June; two feet. A bright, pretty flower, re- quiring little care, beyond a good garden soil and sun. A glorified buttercup. RESEDA (Mignonette). Annual; green; one foot; July. Sow outdoors in May in a light, sandy soil, and allow ample space to each plant, as they do not transplant successfully. ROSES (see p. 39). RUDBECKIA. The most common variety of this plant is the one commonly known as golden glow. (Per- ennial; yellow; August; six feet.) This plant will grow under practically any conditions, and may be- depended upon to add brightness to any spot where it may be planted. Its many excellencies are apt to be overlooked in consequence of its ubiquity in this respect. It is perfectly hardy. The rudbeckia purpurea, or coneflower (peren- nial; dull pink, with a striking velvety brown cen- ter; July-August; four feet) is less well-known, [ 218 ] THE MORE COMMON FLOWERS but is one of our most valuable perennials. It will grow in any soil, although it prefers a rich one, and is indifferent to sun or shade. Each plant should be given an eighteen-inch space. It is per- fectly hardy. SALPIGLOSSIS (Serpent ’s tongue). Annual; all colors; July-August; three feet. Not among the plants which are easiest of culture, but well worth trying. It should be sown outdoors as soon as danger of frost is over, in well sifted earth, the seed being sprinkled over the surface and pressed in lightly with a board. The plants should be given plenty of water, and a six-inch space. They are benefited by frequent transplanting. SALVIA. Annual; red, blue; August-September; two feet. Each plant should be given an eighteen-inch space, a sandy soil, and sun. They may be sown out of doors in May, or in flats in the house in April. Although really a tender perennial they cannot be carried through the winters in the north, and for this reason are best treated as an annual. There is also a satisfactory perennial variety which is hardy in our climate. SCABIOSA (Mourning bride). Annual; white, pink, lav- ender and black; August; two feet. These are among the most delicate and graceful of the old— fashioned flowers. They are grown from seed [ 219 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS sown in May, and should be transplanted to give every plant a six-inch space. They will grow in any good garden soil. There is also a good per- ennial' variety. SEDUM (Stonecrop). Perennial; pink, yellow, white; August; two feet; also good dwarf varieties. This accommodating plant grows best in sandy, clay soil, or among rocks, in the full glare of the sun. It is perfectly hardy, and when in bloom is cov- ered with a solid mass of blossoms. SENECIo (Groundsel). Perennial; yellow; August; two feet. This plant does best in moist, rich soil, but will grow in any good loam, especially if well watered. It should be given a two—foot space. It is not as well-knoum in this country as it deserves, but is well worth the growing. SIDALCEA. Perennial; pink; June; two feet. This at- tractive plant is another, better known abroad than in this country, but is a distinct addition to the garden. It should have rich soil and plenty of sun, and may be propagated by seed or by division. TAGETES (Marigold). Annual; July. Marigolds may be had in tall or “African” variety (Tagetes erecta), which are in different shades of yellow, grow to a height of three feet and for their best development should be given an eighteen-inch [ 220 ] THE MORE COMMON FLOWERS space to each plant, or the low-growing French marigold (Tagetes patul‘a), in red and yellow. Both sorts thrive in any soil, and seed may be planted outdoors in May. TROPAEOLUM (Nasturtium). Annual; red, orange, yel- low, white, pink, brown; J une-October; six inches. These indestructible plants prefer dry, sandy soil, though a little water from time to time will hasten their development. Too rich soil makes them run to leaves. If sown outdoors in April they will bloom in June. They are subject to the black aphis (see p. 145). TUBEROSE. Tender bulb; white; August; eighteen inches. The tuberose is valuable especially as an addition to the garden at night, when it makes a brave showing, and when its perfume is especially delicious. It may be set out as soon as danger of frost is over, and. after blooming should be, when dry, lifted and stored in sand in a cool cellar. VALERIAN (Heliotrope). Perennial; White; June; two feet. This deliciously perfumed plant will grow in any soil, and only requires full sun. It is some- what self-sowing, spreads rapidly, and may be propagated by seed or by division. The annual variety of heliotrope should be sown in hotbed or the house. in March, and will bloom by July. It is, however, the first of the flowers to go, as it has [ 221 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS been one of the last to arrive, and will not survive the first touch of frost. VERBASCUM (Mullein). Perennial; yellow; July; five feet. Any good garden soil and sun are the re- quirements of the verbascum. It takes some time to become firmly established, but is among the most stately and decorative of perennials when once it becomes adapted to its surroundings. VERBENA. Annual; pink, white, purple; July to frost; six inches. It is well to soak the seed of the verbena in warm water for several hours before planting, since it is very slow to germinate. For this reason it should be started in the house in March. It is easy to transplant, and will thrive in any good soil, responding to moisture, although not insisting upon it. Somewhat self-sowing. VERONICA (Lady-of—the-lake). Perennial; blue or white; July-August; three feet. A perfectly hardy perennial, which will grow in any soil. It may be propagated by seed or by division, and spreads fairly rapidly. VIOLA. The Viola tricolor, or pansy, is best treated as a biennial. It may be had in all colors, and blooms from June to frost, if the seed pods be kept cut, reaching a height of six inches. It should be sown in the late summer, in time to become well started before frost, and covered in the Winter; [ 222 ] THE MORE COMMON FLOW ERS it will then bloom the following spring. The plants require rich, sandy soil, partial shade, and plenty of water, as they suffer from the intense heat and drought in the summer. More than any other flower, the pansy is, as has been mentioned, dependent upon the removal of seed pods and withered blossoms if it is to continue blooming. If the old shoots be removed in July new growth will shortly appear, and a new and luxuriant crop of blossoms marks the early fall. The Viola cornuta, or viola, known also as the tufted pansy, is exceedingly popular in England, although not yet widely known in this country. It is absolutely hardy, and should be given the same treatment as the pansy. The blotches which form the little “faces” on the pansy are here lacking, but, on the other hand, the perfume of the viola is delicate and delicious. The Viola, Odom-ta, or violet, blooms in May, and requires partial shade, leaf mould and moisture. It is very difficult to grow, however, because of its tendency to revert to the common unscented wild violet. YUCCA. Perennial; white; July; five feet. Sun and well-drained sandy loam, in sun or shade. It should have protection in the winter. If plants do not bloom as they should, often the moving of them [ 223 ] GARDEN PORTRAITS to another place, although one varying slightly in conditions, will work wonders. ZINNIA. Annual; all colors save blue; August to frost; two feet. Perhaps the most indestructible of all the garden annuals. Sow in May in any soil, and transplant to ten inches apart. [2241 INDEX A Achillea, 7 Aconitum, 52, 102, 191 Ageratum, 51, 132, 170, 191 Alder, 124 Almond, flowering, 158, 159 Althea (shrub), 78, 82, 94, 160 (perennial), 6, 134, 140, 150, 184, 186, 191 Alyssum (annual), 7, 51, 139, 170, 192 (perennial), 26 Anchusa, 99, 131, 133, 184, 192 Anemone, 107, 142, 193 Antirrhinum, 8, 70, 9‘7, 135, 140, 142, 150, 170, 193 Aphis, 47, 144—6 Apple, 83, 95 Aquilegia, 27, 37, 143, 194 Arabis, 27 Armeria, 27 Artichoke, 83 Asparagus, 94, 175 Aster (annual), 8, 55, 132, 142, 151, 170, 194 (perennial), 28, 29, 36, 37, 132, 194 Aubretia, 27 Avenues, of trees, 154 Azalea, 159 B Bamboo, 18 Barberry, 79, 115, 124, 160 Barriers, 81, 94, 156 Beans, 53, 93 Beech, copper, 161 Beet, 53, 82, 94 Begonia, 69, 73, 168, 169, 170 Bellis, 140, 169, 170, 195 Bergamot, 37, 133, 177 Birch, 161 Bird baths, 115, 125 Bird protection, 126 Bittersweet, 125 Blackberry, 94 Blackeyed Susan, 34 Black rot, 151 Blue Garden, 129 Borer, 147 Bougainvilliea, 72 Box, 78, 92, 167 Brussels sprouts, 93 C Calceolaria, 70, 168, 170 Calendula, 137, 195 Calliopsis, 137, 195 Calycanthus, 160 Campanula, 8, 28, 132, 140, 184, 195 Canna, 21, 136 Cardinal flower, 18, 31 Carrot, 53, 82, 94 Cat, protection from, 126 Cauliflower, 93 Cedar of Lebanon, 162 [225] INDEX Celosia, 134, 135, 170, 196 Centaurea, 8, 196 Chard, 53 Cheiranthus, 3, 52, 170, 196 Cherry, 125 Chestnut, 161, 162, 163 Children’s garden, planning, 51 Chipmunk, 126, 148 Chrysanthemum, 136, 138, 139, 140, 142, 174, 197 Cineraria, 70 Clematis, 33 Coleus, 170 Convallaria, 105, 175, 197 Coreopsis, 136, 138, 198 Corn, 94 Cosmos, 8, 135, 142, 175, 198 Covering in Fall, 48, 185 Cowslip, 27, 31 Cranberry, 124 Crocus, 56, 57, 58, 66 Cucumber (wild), 170 Cultivation, 182 Currant, 94, 125 Cutting seed pods, 184 D Dahlia, 135, 138, 142, 147, 151, 174, 198 Datura, 199 Delphinium, 7, 63, 99, 103, 107, 130, 131, 133, 150, 180, 187, 199 Deutzia, 160 Dianthus, 134, 139, 200 (barbatus), 134, 170 Dielytra, 140, 201 Digitalis, 7, 63, 97, 126, 140, 201 Dimorphotheca, 106, 137, 201 Dogwood, 124, 138, 158 E Echinops, 105, 132, 201 Edelweiss, 27 Eichhornia, 17 Elecampane, 34 Elderblow, 38 Elm, 156, 162 (Camperdowne), 162 Eryngium, 105, 132, 202 Erysimum, 27 Espalier fruit trees, 83, 95, 161 Evergreen, 81, 99, 156, 163, 164 Norway spruce, 156 Blue spruce, 161 Pine, 156 F Fences, 45 Fertilizer, 86, 186, 189 Fireweed, 34 Forsythia, 86, 158, 159, 160 Fruit trees, 83, 95, 161 Fuchsia, 53, 71, 169, 170 Funkia, 202 Furniture (Garden), 111 G Gaillardia, 136, 137, 138, 202 Galega, 104, 141, 202 Garden, preparing, 91 Garden, laying out, 92 Gazing globes, 114 Geranium, 53, 71, 168, 169, 170 Gladiolus, 8, 135, 137, 141, 150, 151, 174, 175, 203 Golden rod, 29, 37 Gooseberry, 94 Grape, 109' Ground nut, 33 "lypsophila, 203 [226] INDEX Hardhack, 34 Hedges, 78, 115 Helenium, 100, 104, 135, 137, 145, 146, 177, 203 Helianthus (annual), 52, 137, 171, 204 (perennial), 138, 204 Helichrysum, 204 Hemerocallis, 204 Hepatica, 28, 38 Hibiscus, 18, 135, 140, 205 Horsechestnut, 156 Hyacinth, 56, 58-9, 61, 66, 73 (Grape hyacinth), 59 Hyacinthus candicans, 7, 139, 205 Hydrangea, 160 I Iberis, 7, 51, 139, 140, 205 Impatiens, 51, 205 Ipomea, 143, 170, 206 Iris, 6, 7, 111, 145, 206 Ivy, 72 Poison ivy, 33 J Joe Pye weed, 31, 34 K Knotweed, 80 L Laburnum, 158, 159 Ladies’ slipper, 38 Lathyrus, 2, 53, 143, 176, 178, 184, 186, 207 Lettuce, 82 Laurel, 38, 159' Liatrio, 101, 207 Lilac, 159 Lilium, 31, 52, 151, 177, 208, 215 Auratum, 5, 6, 139, 208 Speciosum, 6, 208 Candidum, 6, 208 Field, 34 Canada, 34 Limnocharis, 17 Linden, 155 Linum, 105 Lonicera, 109, 125, 209 Loosestrife, 31 Lupine, 7, 107, 131, 209 Lychnis, 28, 103, 133, 134, 140, 209 M Magnolia, 158, 159 Maple, 163 Soft, 155 Norway, 155 Copper, 161 Matricaria, 210 Matthiola, 5, 6, 52, 70, 209 Maurandia, 170 Mayflower, 36 Meadowsweet, 34 Meconopsis, 105 Milkweed, 34 Mirabilis, 210 Mole, prevention, 148 Monarda, 37, 133, 134, 177, 210 Montbretia, 211 Mountain ash, 124, 161 Mulberry, 125 Mullein, 34 Myriophyllum, 17 Mysotis, 28, 31, 55, 130, 211 [227] INDEX N Narcissus, 58, 59, 66, 73, 175, 179 daffodil, 29, 56, 57, 66, 136, 179 Nelumbium, 16, 32, 145 Album grandiflorum, 16 Osiris, 16 Pekensis, 16 Speciosum, 16 Nicotiana, 5, 6, 53, 97, 139, 211 Nigella, 132, 212 Nymphea, 3, 9-19, 32, 148, 177 Andreana, 19 Bisettii, 4, 15 Capensis, 15 Daubeniana, 20 Dentata, 4 Dentata magnifica, 4 Dentata superba, 4, 15 Eugenia de Land, 15 George Huster, 4 Jubilee, 19 Kewensis, 19 Laydekeri, 19 Marliacea albida, 16, 19‘ Marliacea carnea, 19 Marliacea chromatella, 15, 19 Marliacea rosea, 15, 19 Mrs. Edwards Whitaker, 14 Mrs. Woodrow Wilson, 20 Odorata, 14, 16 Omarana, 4 Panama Pacific, 19 Paul Hariot, 15 Pennsylvania, 14 Pygmaea, 19 Robinsoni, 16 Rubra rosea, 4, 15 Victoria Regia, 16 William Doogue, 16 Zanzibarensis, 12, 15, 19 0 Oak, 156, 161, 162, 163 Oenothera, 27 Orchard planning, 95 Orchis, purple fringed, 31 P Pampas grass, 18 Papaver, 29, 53, 107, 133, 140, 216 Iceland, 27 Papyrus, 18 Parsley, 53, 82 Peach, 95 Pear, 95 Peas, 53, 93, 94, 148 Penstemon, 101, 134, 212 Peony, 111, 145, 151, 175, 188, 213 Pergolas, 108 Petunia, 53, 170, 176, 177, 214 Phlox, 5, 6, 59, 97, 133, 134, 139, 141, 177, 184, 214 Drummondii, 170, 215 Sublata, 27, 37, 215 Physostegia, 7, 141, 215 Pink garden, 140 Plane tree, 155 Planting, spring, 186 Platycodon, 107, 132, 215 Plumbago, 27 Polemonium, 98, 132, 133, 215 Poplar, 81, 156, 157 Portulaca, 53, 170, 217 Potatoes, 82, 94 Privet, 79, 80, 81, 86, 94, 115, 124 Pruning roses, 46, 186 Pyrethrum, 101, 133, 138, 140, 177, 217 Pyrus Japonica, 78, 124, 160 [228] INDEX R Rabbit prevention, 147 Radish, 53 Ranunculus, 218 Reed, giant, 18 Red garden, 133 Red squirrel, 126 Reseda, 3, 176, 218 Rhododendron, 38, 159 Rock Garden, making, 21-24 Roses, 39-48, 52, 72, 80, 109, 115, 116, 144, 145, 177, 180, 186, 218 American Pillar, 45 Caroline Testout, 43 Columbia, 42 Crimson Rambler, 44, 109 “Daily Mail” Rose, 43 Dr. W. Van Fleet, 45 Dorothy Perkins, 44 Edith Cavell, 42 Flower of Fairfield, 44 Frau Karl Druschki, 42 General Jacqueminot, 43 Gloire Lyonnaise, 42 Gruss an Teplitz, 43 Hadley, 43 Hiawatha, 45 Hoosier Beauty, 43 J. B. Clark, 43 Jonkheer J. L. Mock, 42 Kaiserin Auguste Victoria, 42 Killarney Queen, 42 Killarney Brilliant, 42 Lady Gay, 44, 45 Lady Hillingdon, 44 Magna Charta, 43 Mamman Cochet, 44 Mme. Edouard Heriot, 43 Mrs. Aaron Ward, 44 Roses—( Continued) Mrs. John Laing, 42 Mrs. R. G. Sharman-Crawford, 42 Ophelia, 44 Persian yellow, 45 Radiance, 42 Richmond, 43 ShOWer of Gold, 45 Silver Moon, 45 Snow Queen, 42 Ulrich Brunner, 43 Rose beetle, 145 Rose garden, making, 40 Rose tree, 45 Rudbeckia (golden glow), 101, 137, 145, 177, 218 (purpurea), 100, 141, 218 Rust, 150, 186 100, S Salpiglossis, 219 Salvia, 21, 136, 170, 219 Saxifrage, 27 Scabiosa, 29, 106, 139, 219 Scilla, 59 Screen, 80, 81, 157 Sedum, 28, 107, 142, 220 Seneco, 104, 220 Shrubs, 159 Sidalcea, 104, 220 Silver rod, 37 Sistus, 28 Slope, gardening on a, 181 Smoke tree, 160 Snakes, 149 Snapdragon (shrub), 124 Snow-on-the-mountains, 7 Snowball, Japanese, 160 Sour soil, 187, 189 [229] 11719132? Sparrow prevention, 127 Spirea, 28, 159 Spraying roses, 186 Statuary, 114 Sumac, 38, 124 Sundials, 113 Syringa, 160 ’1‘. Table decoration, 179 Tagetes, 52, 55, 97, 137, 170, 220 Tea houses, 110 Thorn, flowering, 124, 158 Tomato, 82 Transplanting, 183 Trees, as avenue, 154 as barrier, 81, 156 decorative plantings, 158 Tropolaeunn 51,137,145,170,176, 221 Tuberose, 7, 221 Thflips, 52, 56, 57, 58, 60-66, 73, 133, 175, 187 Bybloemen, 64 Clara Butt, 63 Darwin, 62, 63, 64 Dream, 63 Dragon, 63, 74 Inglescombe yellow, 63 Massachusetts, 63 Mr. Farncombe Sanders, 62, 63 Mrs. Potter Palmer, 63 Old Dutch Breeders, 63 Parrot, 63, 74 Pride of Haarlem, 62, 63 Picotee, 64 Rembrandt, 64 Rev. H. Ewbank, 63 Sultan, 63 Tulip tree, 162, 163 V Valerian (annual), ‘71, 170, 221 (perennial), 7, 145, 221 Vegetable garden, the artistic, 82 rotation of crops, 93 Verbascum, 102, 138, 222 Verbena, 52, 97, 139, 142, 169, 170, 222 Veronica, 28, 102, 132, 222 Vervain, 34 Viola, 28, 53, 222 pansy, 53, 55, 142, 170, 176, 178, 184,222 violet, 37, 223 Vinca, 169, 170 W Walls, 78 Watering, 182 Water garden, making, 9, 24, 32 Water rat, 148 Wegelia, 159 White garden, making, 1-8, 139 Wild garden, making, 22 Willow, 161 Wistaria, 72, 109 Woodbine, 125, 33 lVorms, 146, 149 Y Yellow garden, 136 Yellows, 151, 194 ‘ Yucca, 2, 7, 139, 223 Z Zinnia, 51, 97, 174, 224 [230] EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE EEEEEEEEEE {-‘l‘u QC 3\ ~.\.\\\\ \\\ {RN \“_ ' “f .w‘ b‘.\“\ \:§:\\f3:\~ ‘~ ~\"Z\§§:\§&§\\§\N\»§§\§Q“QFI \x “‘5‘ \ y \ \m \\_\\\\\x\:\:‘ :3 \\§g\\\\~\\3\§\\\3§\\\\§¥3 \\ \ N3 3. \\\\ \wawm Wm ‘ W\\3\\\\Q\x\w\ ‘33 \Q ‘ “ ‘ _ ‘\ \\ ‘ \K)“. ‘\3\\\ ‘v\\\‘3\‘\‘{ fiw®xwwwwfifiwfi“ \ \T \ ‘x “my ~ '3\\_\\\‘\\\:\‘~ \ _\ .\ \\ :3 \\ \Q: -\ ‘\\\\\\\§» Q‘ 3 \\§>s<:§\:s\wsisv 3 3 , 3 \ c 3‘ \ “NA V; ‘-\\‘x‘§.§\\‘\\\\ \\ \ \3 x \ § 33 ‘ \\ \ \ . 3 \i\\< \‘h \ \\ §3Q\1\ \ _\‘ §\\ “ \w3 M “ ~ \‘ x A‘ 3 \ ~. 3 xx 3w w ‘\ ‘ N \»3 \\\\\.\33\\)> 3\\\§§3§:} \\\»3 “Mann \3§®®QMN&WVNNW& 3xmmwmmmfiwmwwwv \ x 3} 3 3:93 3:3 w. 333x“ )Ivixtm‘ ‘ \x\\\\:\\:\:\\\\\\\§§\\Sm.‘\\\‘©\3\‘&~3\§3&ss\§2§\§w§m 33 3:31; ~3 w \ ‘~ \\§\o\§\\\\\\\ \\\\\\\\\\\\ 3 \ ‘ $3 .3:3\\‘.c: ~§333\*\““‘¥i~\‘1 ‘\ \\ V “ on $45» V063“ * \\ \\ »\ \\\‘\“\\‘\\‘\“‘\‘\\‘\\\\ \ 3 \ W“ $\\\\\\\\ 3 \w w 3 . 3 §§§3\ \\\‘\\\§“3\“<§\ N‘ \ \>\\\\\‘\\\\\\ \\\\ >u®m§wyx§x \ \3w&\§w\\\\ 33 \ Wm % \ V§®§wfl§§§‘&‘§ \{\\~\\\\\\\\\\ ‘ \ \i\\\\\\\\\\ \\\\ W \ _ \ ‘ Rn \ j \§\\\‘\x\§\§\\ \: \\\$\C\\:NR‘\‘~:\§\\Q ,\ \\ \\\\ 3 3\ 3 3 \ \\§\{~;\< \ \\ _3 \3 V « 1V“ ‘ \ w \? 93 3 § \3 \‘ 32* 3‘1 \_ ‘ *\\\\\\\\k \ \ 3 \ M 3 ‘\{\;\\\‘\3 \‘\.\\_\‘\ X \3 >3 3€§§§m&w\ww \ ~“\“~“-}‘S:\$€§“\ w .3 ‘ \\<§\\§Q§\§‘i \ \\ - \\‘\ \NW “\\ \“\‘ Nw§§§§§§§v ~ \ 33¢ \ \\\\:‘\\ “k“ \\\\\\\\\\\k\ \\\\ \ \\‘ \ ‘ ‘ \ $\\ ”3 ‘ 1 \N‘m‘ \ \ \ ‘fi ‘\ \ $3Qg$§ \ \\ \§§‘§\:\x “‘\ \\\\\\\\\>\\\:§\‘\\\\3 . \\\‘ \\\‘\\“\\ 3 \\§\ 3 x \ 3x“ ‘ ‘\ \ \\:\ : 3 \\Q\ 3 3 3x . \xN-w “x \ 33‘ \ :\:\\\;\\1\\3\H‘3 §§§§§§§x§§§§§§fiy“fi .3\\'\ \ ‘3 \kam 3. \\\§\\§\\\\\\\§ \‘ Wm \\ \w§w§®w®&ww@ \ §\ “V \‘ix 3‘ ‘\t\‘\\\\\‘f \\ -\‘§3 \\ ‘Yk “‘L\\\\*‘\§§\§§3;-‘\EE§§C\\\\‘ k \0“‘\\\\‘§\‘\\§i\\>:\3\\\ “ \‘ 31“ \‘3 \ ‘ \. ‘x / yg‘ , r/f. , 7/,“ \ w 41/, x \ 3 x \ 12 4/3/14 £142 , 42:42 I; / \‘\‘\\\“\\*\ *4 "‘ \:‘\\\§ :3: 3§§&§w" _ \ k \ \ 3 \ “ m «11% N‘ \ \\‘ “Xx“ «mm» \ “WY 3, ‘3 .9 \ \\\ \\\\ fpmfi .‘\ \ \> \\V\IN\\\\\\I\\\N * - 3 \\§~‘>‘§r§:~ 3§3\\‘3\ \\N\\\‘\‘§\E§ ‘ ‘ >- ‘ “-.\ ‘ \ m \ _ wfi§iwfii § 3‘ 3 \ ~5§§§$® 3% .\\»_\\\ {@va 3\ \ 9 {£31393 ‘3‘“ \\\\\\ $\3\\\\\‘ - 3 “ n \ “, ‘\\ k R a \\:.~>§\X\E¥§§T§\&\E2m\ 3 3 333.3 Wk 3 _ \\m~3\\§;:\\» \3 ‘2 \\ \\ \ C a u v x 3\ \\\\m \~ 3 3 3 \‘ *3 :mi \x . 3 3 33 {xxkhk 333$?“ ‘1‘».3“??? 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