£ "^ 0«^ C<2>' ^ / 309.173 BOOK 309. 173.C636Y c. 1 COBBETT # YEARS RESIDENCE IN AMERICA 3 T153 00077553 A THE ABBEY CLASSICS— V WILLIAM COBBETT A YEARS RESIDENCE IN AMERICA Published hySM/ILLMrtYtVlRD SCOMJ^MYMc __ at -&lAfount\ernon Street, Boston , J^fass. x.- v O \\V± Made in Great Britain. CONTENTS Introduction General Preface to the Three Parts Page ix xvii PART I Chap. I. Description of the Situation and Extent of Long Island, and also of the Face of the Country, and an Account of the Climate, Seasons, and Soil II. Ruta Baga. Culture, Mode of pre- serving, and Uses of the Ruta Baga, sometimes called the Russia, and sometimes the Swedish, Turnip 40 Dedication Preface Chap. III. IV. V. VI. VII. VIII. IX. X. XI. *> o* PART II Experiments as to Cabbages Earth-burning . Transplanting Indian Corn . Swedish Turnips Potatoes .... Cows, Sheep, Hogs, and Poultry Prices of Land, Labour, Food and Raiment .... Expences of Housekeeping . Manners, Customs, and Character of the People . 83 85 §9 101 106 in 122 134 141 146 153 CONTENTS Page Chap. XII. Rural Sports . . . .162 XIII. Paupers .... 168 XIV. Government, Laws, and Religion . 173 PART III Dedication ....... 195 Preface ........ 197 Mr. Hulme's Introduction to his Journal . . 199 Mr. Hulme's Journal, made during a Tour in the Western Countries of America, in which Tour he visited Mr. Birkbeck's Settlement . . . 205 Mr. Cobbett's Letters to Mr. Birkbeck, remon- strating with that Gentleman on the numerous delusions, contained in his two publications, entitled " Notes on a Journey in America " and " Letters from Illinois " . . . . 235 Postscript, being the detail of an experiment made in the cultivation of the Ruta Baga . . .270 Second Postscript, a Refutation of Fearon's False- hoods ........ 272 PART I I A sort of spy, as Cobbett called him, Henry Bradshaw Fearon, an English radical, who called on Cobbett at his farm at Hyde Park, twenty miles from New York, gave a sketch of " this well- known character," his host : "A print by Bartolozzi, executed in 1801, conveys a correct outline of his person. His eyes are small, and pleasingly good-natured. To a French gentleman present, he was attentive ; with his sons, familiar ; to his servants, easy, but to all, in his tone and manner, resolute and determined. He feels no hesitation in praising himself, and evidently believes that he is eventually destined to be the Atlas of the British nation. His faculty in relating anecdotes is amusing My impressions of Mr. Cobbett are, that those who know him would like him if they can be content to submit unconditionally to his dictation. ' Obey me and I will treat you kindly ; if you do not, I will trample on you,' seemed visible in every word and feature. He appears to feel, in its fullest force the sentiment : I have no brother, am like no brother : I am myself alone." Fearon had published a volume called Sketches in America, and in his relation of this visit to Cobbett he included a report of certain reflections attributed to his host and likely to give offence to Americans. These reflections, and Cobbett's ferocious repudia- tion, are to be found in the second postscript to Part III of the present volume ; but you will not find there any repudiation of this excellent brief sketch. Cobbett, it may be surmised, was not displeased with it, and indeed it is perfectly consistent not simply with the many portraits and cartoons which mirror the outward man, but also with the inward man presented so fully, so freshly, so garrulously in Cobbett's own books. ' A blade I took for a decent tailor, my son William for a shopkeeper's clerk, and Mrs. Churcher, with less charity, for a slippery young man, or, at best, for an Exciseman,' is his scornful sketch of poor Fearon ; truly a harsh return for the amiable portrait drawn by the young Radical author. INTRODUCTION ii I Cobbett's residence in America, fron-11817 to 1819, which forms the subject of the present volume, was not his first sojourn in the western hemisphere. He had served in the British Army in New Brunswick and returned with his regiment in 1791 ; and after his discharge, made grave allegations of corruption against certain officers of his late regiment. Fearing an unequal trial and per- sonal danger, he had fled from England when a court-martial was about to investigate his charges, and from 1792 to 1800 he lived in the United States, practising there that free and furious in- vective which was a main element of his controversial method, and only leaving when he was nearly ruined by the damages awarded against him for libel. The noise of his contention was heard across the Atlantic, and when he landed at Falmouth in the summer of 1800, he found himself poor and famous. Windham soon acclaimed him as a man who by his unaided exertions had rendered his country services that entitled him to a statue of gold, and encouraged him in the foundation of the notorious Political Register, which shortly proved to be a deep well of money for its energetic owner. But not many years elapsed before Cobbett's inconstancy betrayed itself, although without betraying his honesty ; his political opinions changed until the Tory was lost in the Radical. The simple truth was that he could not endure to give continuous approval to any man or party, and was naturally in opposition and naturally the champion of the weaker many, though never of a hopeless minority. He found it possible to vary the life of a pamphleteer with the life of a farmer, having bought (in 1805) a farm at Botley in Hampshire, and spending lavishly there the money won by his popular journalism. " A born agitator" would be our ready phrase for a Cobbett of to-day, if we chose to forget how much more than an agitator was the author of this volume. He preserved a certain caution in his political work until the Peninsular war sharpened his animosity to the government. That animosity was violently expressed, but the government, that both hated and feared him, found no very plausible occasion for a prosecution until 1809, when he became infuriated on hearing of the flogging of English Militia by German troops : "The mutiny among the local militia which broke out at Ely, was fortunately suppressed on Wednesday by the arrival of four squadrons of the German Legion Cavalry from Bury, under the command of General Auckland. Five of the ring-leaders were tried by court-martial, and sentenced to receive five hundred lashes each, part of which punishment they received on Wednesday, and a part was INTRODUCTION remitted. A stoppage for their knapsacks was the ground of complaint that excited this mutinous spirit, which occasioned the men to surround their officers, and demand what they deemed their arrears. The first division of the German Legion halted yesterday at Newmarket on their return to Bury." Cobbett commented on this in his Register with such quick and honourable anger, such intense contempt for wanton authority, that action was tardily taken against him. His defence was far less gallant and effective than his attack had been ; he was con- victed, condemned to two years' imprisonment, to pay a fine of a thousand pounds, and at the end of his imprisonment to give heavy bail and find sureties for his keeping the peace for seven years. Prison life in Newgate, mitigated as it was by means, industry and the kindness of friends, was a sore experience, and it is wonderful that the violent- minded victim was not more embittered than his subsequent writings reveal. On his release from prison in 1812, Cobbett was entertained like a martyr restored from the flames. He had maintained an incredible literary activity during his two years' imprisonment ; he boasted of it with characteristic self-satisfaction — most lengthily and amusingly in his Advice to Young Men — and now he emerged once more into the sun of men's attention. His mind was flattered and quickened. The bond for seven years' keeping the peace restrained his ardour, but he could not be pacific in the face of tyranny, nor timid at the sight of power ; and he soon began moving about the country (much in the way of his more famous Rural Rides which followed, in 1821, his second return from the United States), and addressing an exasperated and expectant people. His boldness and readiness in public controversy are amusing, and it was in one of his meetings with county freeholders that he dealt thus with an opponent : " I fixed my eye upon him, and pointing my hand down- right, and making a sort of chastising motion, said ' Peace, babbling slave ! ' which produced such terror amongst others, that I met with no more interruption." A result of these journeys was the revived prosperity of the Register and, in 1816, the issue of a twopenny edition (Cobbett's Tzvopenny Trash) for the enlightenment of the masses. Parliament was now the enemy against which his most powerful blows were aimed. The cause of the present discontents he asserted was the taxes, and this intolerable taxation proceeded in turn from the want of Parliamentary Reform. At the time of the Luddite agitation he deprecated violence, and was candid enough to tell his audience that there was no solid objection to the use of machinery ; machines distinguished the civil from the INTRODUCTION savage man, and the abolition of machinery would make life impossible. But notwithstanding such moderate counsels his position as champion of the labourers of England was a dangerous one ; for his followers were excitable and desperate. At the end of 1816, when rioting began in London, in the boldness of panic the government passed several emergency statutes, including one suspending the Habeas Corpus Act. Cobbett's seven years of pledged good behaviour had not yet expired, and under this new and ominous power he could be thrown into prison at the whim of any timid or ambitious underling ; and since his plain courage was always dashed with prudence, early in 18 17 he once more fled from England, writing in a farewell to his readers from Liverpool : " I have no desire to write libels. I have written none here. Lord Sidmouth was ' sorry to say ' that I had not written anything that the Law Officers could prosecute with any chance of success. I do not remove for the pur- pose of writing libels, but for the purpose of being able to write what is not libellous. I do not retire from a combat with the Attorney- General but from a combat with a dungeon, deprived of pen, ink, and paper. A combat with the Attorney-General is quite unequal enough. That, however, I would have encountered. I know too well what a trial by Special Jury is. Yet that, or any sort of trial, I would have stayed to face. So that I could have been sure of a trial, of whatever sort, I would have run the risk. But against the absolute power of imprisonment, without even a hearing, for time unlimited, in any jail in the kingdom, without the use of pen, ink, and paper, and without any communication with any soul but the keepers — against such a power it would have been worse than madness to attempt to strive." It was no mere voluble demagogue who declared : " I will never become a Subject or a Citizen in any other state, and will always be a foreigner in every country but England. Any foible that may belong to your character I shall always willingly allow to belong to my own. And the celebrity which my writings have obtained, and which they will preserve, long and long after Lords Liverpool and Sidmouth and Castlereagh are rotten and forgotten, I owe less to my own talents than to that discernment and that noble spirit in you, which have at once instructed my mind and warmed my heart : and my beloved country- men, be you well assured, that the last beatings of that heart will be love for the people, for the happiness and the renown of England ; and hatred of their corrupt, hypo- critical, dastardly and merciless fees." INTRODUCTION Perhaps, as his biographers have suggested, his departure was quickened by financial troubles. The Quarterly Review said that he " fled from his creditors. That he should do this was perfectly natural ; the thing to be admired is, that such a man should have creditors to flee from." But clearly it was not only his debts that urged his flight. He had left America, in 1800, a Tory, an anti-democrat ; but now, in 18 17, he returned a Radical, smarting and denouncing the institutions and the masters of his native country. Often in the Register, which he still directed and contributed to during his exile, and in the following pages, he contrasted the maleficence of the English system with the freedom of the American — the freedom of speech and the press, the lightness of the taxes, the independence of the people : " To see a free country for once, and to see every labourer with plenty to eat and drink ! Think of that I And never to see the hang-dog face of a tax-gatherer. Think of that ! No Alien Acts here ! No long-sworded and whiskered Captains. No Judges escorted from town to town and sitting under the guard of dragoons. No packed juries of tenants. No Crosses. No Bolton Fletchers. No hangings and rippings up. No Castleses and Olivers. No Stewarts and Perries. No Cannings, Liverpools, Castlereaghs, Eldons, Ellenboroughs or Sidmouths. No Bankers. No Squeaking Wynnes. No Wilberforces . Think of that. No Wilberforces ! " Though he speaks with the tongue of men and of stern angels, humour is still heard ; there is still an enjoyment of his own phrase, a satisfaction in his own grotesque imaginations. He had found himself forgotten when he arrived in America, and acquiesced in this unusual experience, occupying himself with the purchase and cultivation of his farm, and planning and writing, among other books, the enormously popular English Grammar. His family and other letters from America are pleasant enough in their hints of rural felicity only half complete ; it is described more freely in the present volume, which does not afford an orderly narrative of the seasons of the year and the labours of an unambitious man, but rather the chaotic energies, the diversions, humours and passions of a man who sought to live many lives at once. Cobbett was not able to stay long in quietness. His house and much of his property were destroyed by fire in 1819, and this disaster turned his thoughts homeward again. The suspension of the Habeas Corpus Act had not been renewed, and the prospect of liberty in his native country seemed fair. Bearing the bones of Tom Paine he left America in the autumn of 181 9, and landed in Liverpool with the precious relics in his proud possession. INTRODUCTION " Great indeed," he exclaimed to a wondering assembly, *" great indeed must that man have been, whose very bones attract such attention." Armed with the bones Cobbett passed like a Prince through a country torn with faction — here welcomed, there repulsed, and always self-delighted. He was once again in England, and happy. Ill A Year's Residence in America is a favourite book among the growing body of admirers of William Cobbett, mainly because it is so pleasant in its autobiography. Did George Borrow learn from him that trick of displaying, enlarging, and discoursing upon his prejudices and opinions, which is so characteristic of both ? A Year's Residence is full of Cobbett — the homely man, the romantic, the satirical, the eloquent, the curt. Pigs lead him to Rousseau ; that scurvy root, the potato, is involved with a denunciation of Shakespeare and Milton ; parsons like placemen are distinguished by his scorn ; Arthur Young is but a religious fanatic, bribed by £500 a year ; and Bentham becomes little Mr. Jerry Bentham, an everlasting babbler. He pleases himself with the praise of American hospitality, regretting that it had died in England under the extortion of the tax-gatherer, and still more delights himself with the beauty of American women. But his heart is still in England : " England is my country and to England I shall return. I like it best " ; to which country, he says " I always have affection which I cannot feel towards any other in the same degree, and the prosperity and honour of which I shall, I hope, never cease to prefer before the gratification of all private pleasure and emoluments." Near the close of his life he said, " I suppose that no one has ever passed a happier life than I have done." That, after all, is his chief recommendation to the kindness of posterity, and the chief virtue of A Year's Residence in America — the transparent happiness of the author. And since I began with a portrait by Fearon, I should like to end with another by Hazlitt, who admired him as only Hazlitt can admire — with accordant praise and blame in a resounding and perfect antiphony : " The only time I ever saw him he seemed to me a very pleasant man : easy of access, affable, clear-headed, simple and mild in his manner, deliberate and unruffled in his speech, though some of his expressions were not ;very qualified. His figure is tall and portly : he has a good sensible face, rather full, with little grey eyes, a hard, square forehead, a ruddy complexion, with hair grey or powdered : and had on a scarlet broad-cloth waistcoat, INTRODUCTION with the flaps of the pockets hanging down, as was the custom for gentlemen-farmers in the last century, or as we see it in the picture of Members of Parliament in the reign of George I. I certainly did not think less favourably of him for seeing him." JOHN FREEMAN. Q6NSRAL TR6FAC8 TO THE THR86 TARTS i. Throughout the whole of this work it is my intention to number the paragraphs, from one end to the other of each Part. This renders the business of reference more easy than it can be rendered by any mode in my power to find out ; and, easy re- ference saves a great deal of paper and print, and also, which ought to be more valuable a great deal of time, of which an in- dustrious man has never any to spare. To desire the reader to look at paragraph such a number of such a part, will frequently, as he will find, save him both money and labour ; for, without this power of reference, the paragraph, or the substance of it, would demand being repeated in the place where the reference would be pointed out to him. 2. Amongst all the publications, which I have yet seen, on the subject of the United States, as a country to live in, and especially to farm in, I have never yet observed one that conveyed to English- men anything like a correct notion of the matter. Some writers of Travels in these States have jolted along in the stages from place to place, have lounged away their time with the idle part of their own countrymen, and, taking every thing different from what they left at home for the effect of ignorance, and every thing not servile to be the effect of insolence, have described the country as unfit for a civilized being to reside in. Others, coming with a resolution to find every thing better than at home, and weakly deeming themselves pledged to find climate, soil, and all blessed by the effects of freedom, have painted the country as a perfect paradise ; they have seen nothing but blooming orchards and smiling faces. 3. The account, which I shall give, shall be that of actual experience. I will say what I know and what I have seen and what I have done. I mean to give an account of a Year's Residence, ten months in this Island and two months in Pennsylvania, in which I went back to the first ridge of mountains. GENERAL PREFACE In the course of the three parts, of which this work will consist, each part making a small volume, every thing which appears to me useful to persons intending to come to this country shall be communicated ; but, more especially that which may be useful to farmers ; because, as to such matters, I have ample experience. Indeed, this is the main thing ; for this is really and truly a country of farmers. Here, Governors, Legislators, Presidents, all are farmers. A farmer here is not the poor dependent wretch that a Yeomanry- Cavalry man is, or that a Treason-Jury man is. A farmer here depends on nobody but himself and on his own proper means ; and, if he be not at his ease, and even rich, it must be his own fault. 4. To make men clearly see what they may do in any situation of life, one of the best modes, if not the very best, is to give them, in detail, an account of what one has done oneself in that same situation, and how and when and where one has done it. This, as far as relates to farming and house-keeping in the country, is the mode that I shall pursue. I shall give an account of what I have done ; and, while this will convince any good farmer, or any man of tolerable means, that he may, if he will, do the same, it will give him an idea of the climate, soil, crops, &c, a thousand times more neat and correct, than could be conveyed to his mind by any general description, unaccompanied with actual experi- mental accounts. 5. As the expressing of this intention may, perhaps, suggest to the reader to ask, how it is that much can be known on the subject of Farming by a man, who, for thirty-six out of fifty -two years of his life has been a Soldier or a Political Writer, and who, of course, has spent so large a part of his time in garrisons and in great cities, I will beg leave to satisfy this natural curiosity before-hand. 6. Early habits and affections seldom quit us while we have vigour of mind left. I was brought up under a father, whose talk was chiefly about his garden and his fields, with regard to which he was famed for his skill and his exemplary neatness. From my very infancy, from the age of six years, when I climbed up the side of a steep sand-rock, and there scooped me out a plot four feet square to make me a garden, and the soil for which I carried up in the bosom of my little blue smock-frock (or hunting- shirt) , I have never lost one particle of my passion for these healthy and rational and heart-cheering pursuits, in which every day presents something new, in which the spirits are never suffered to flag, and in which industry, skill, and care are sure to meet with their due reward. I have never, for any eight months together, during my whole life, been without a garden. So sure are we to overcome difficulties where the heart and mind are bent on the thing to be obtained ! 7. The beautiful plantation of American Trees round my house at Botley, the seeds of which were sent me, at my request, from Pennsylvania, in 1806, and some of which are now nearly forty xviii GENERAL PREFACE feet high, all sown and planted by myself, will, I hope, long remain as a specimen of my perseverance in this way. During my whole life I have been a gardener. There is no part of the business, which, first or last, I have not performed with my own hands. And, as to it, I owe very little to books, except that of Tull ; for I never read a good one in my life, except a French book, called the Manuel du Jardinier. 8. As to farming, I was bred at the plough-tail, and in the Hop- Gardens of Farnham in Surrey, my native place, and which spot, as it so happened, is the neatest in England, and, I believe, in the whole world. All there is a garden. The neat culture of the hop extends its influence to the fields round about. Hedges cut with shears and every other mark of skill and care strike the eye at Farnham, and become fainter and fainter as you go from it in every direction. I have had, besides, great experience in farming for several years of late ; for, one man will gain more knowledge in a year than another will in a life. It is the taste for the thing that really gives the knowledge. 9. To this taste, produced in me by a desire to imitate a father whom I ardently loved, and to whose very word I listened with admiration, I owe no small part of my happiness, for a greater proportion of which very few men ever had to be grateful to God. These pursuits, innocent in themselves, instructive in their very nature, and always tending to preserve health, have a constant, a never-failing source, of recreation to me ; and, which I count amongst the greatest of their benefits and blessings, they have always, in my house, supplied the place of the card-table, the dice-box, the chess-board and the lounging bottle. Time never hangs on the hands of him, who delights in these pursuits, and who has books on the subject to read. Even when shut up within the walls of a prison, for having complained that Englishmen had been flogged in the heart of England under a guard of German Bayonets and Sabres ;* even then, I found in these pursuits a source of pleasure inexhaustible. To that of the whole of our English books on these matters, I then added the reading of all the valuable French books ; and I then, for the first time, read that Book of all Books on husbandry, the work of JetiiRO Tull, to the principles of whom I owe more than to all my other reading and all my experience, and of which principles I hope to find time to give a sketch, at least, in some future Part of this work. 10. I wish it to be observed, that, in any thing which I may say, during the course of this work, though truth will compel me to state facts, which will, doubtless, tend to induce farmers to leave England for America, I advise no one so to do. I shall set dov/n in writing nothing but what is strictly true. I myself am * Sentenced 9 July, 1810, to pay a fine of £l,C00; to be imprisoned 2 years in Newgate Gaol, and at expiration of that time to enter into a Kecognizance to keep the peace for 7 years— himself in the sum of £3,000, and two sureties in £1,000 each. GENERAL PREFACE bound to England for life. My notions of allegiance to country ; my great and anxious desire to assist in the restoration of her freedom and happiness ; my opinion that I possess, in some small degree, at any rate, the power to render such assistance ; and, above all the other considerations, my unchangeable attach- ment to the people of England, and especially those who have so bravely struggled for our rights : these bind me to England ; but, I shall leave others to judge and to act for themselves. Wm. COBBETT. North Hempstedy Long Island, z\st April, 1818. *A TSARS 'R6SID6NCS IN AMERICA CHAPTER I. Description of the Situation and Extent of Long Island, and also of the Face of the Country, and an Account of the Climate, Seasons, and Soil. 1 1 . Long Island is situated in what may be called the middle climate of that part of the United States, which, coastwise, extends from Boston to the Bay of Chesapeake. Farther to the South, the cultivation is chiefly by negroes, and farther to the North than Boston is too cold and arid to be worth much notice, though, doubtless, there are to be found in those parts good spots of land and good farmers. Boston is about 200 miles to the North of me, and the Bay of Chesapeake about the same distance to the South. In speaking of the climate and seasons, therefore, an allowance must be made, of hotter or colder, earlier or later, in a degree proportioned to those distances ; because I can speak positively only of the very spot, at which I have resided. But this is a matter of very little consequence ; seeing that every part has its seasons first or last. All the difference is, that, in some parts of the immense space of which I have spoken, there is a little more summer than in other parts. The same crops will, I believe, grow in them all. CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 12. The situation of Long Island is this : It is about 130 miles long. It extends in length from the Bay of the City of New York to within a short distance of the State of Rhode Island. One side of it is against the sea, the other side looks across an arm of the sea into a part of the State of New York (to which Long Island belongs) and into a part of the State of Connecticut. At the end nearest the city of New York it is separated from the site of that city by a channel so narrow as to be crossed by a Steam- Boat in a few minutes ; and this boat, with another near it, impelled by a team of horses, which works in the boat, form the mode of conveyance from the Island to the city, for horses, waggons, and every thing else. 13. The Island is divided into three counties ; King's county, Queen's county, and the county of Suffolk. King's county takes off the end next New York city, for about 13 miles up the Island ; Queen's county cuts off another slice about thirty miles further up ; and all the rest is the county of Suffolk. These counties are divided into townships. And, the municipal government of Justices of the Peace, Sheriffs, Constables, &c. is in nearly the English way, with such differences as I shall notice in the second part of this work. 14. There is a ridge of hills, which runs from one end of the Island to the other. The two sides are flats, or, rather, very easy and imperceptible slopes towards the sea. There are no rivers, or rivulets except here and there a little run into a bottom which lets in the sea- water for a mile or two as it were to meet the springs. Dryness is, therefore, a great characteristic of this Island. At the place where I live, which is in Queen's county, and very nearly the middle of the Island, crosswise, we have no water, except in a well seventy feet deep, and from the clouds ; yet, we never ex- perience a want of water. A large rain-water cistern to take the run from the house, and a duck-pond to take that from the barn, afford an ample supply ; and I can truly say, that as to the article of water, I never was situated to please me so well in my life before. The rains come about once in fifteen days ; they come in abundance for about twenty-four hours : and then all is fair and all is dry again immediately : yet here and there, especially on the hills , there are ponds, as they call them here ; but in England, they would be called lakes, from their extent as well as from their depth. These, with the various trees which surround them, are very beautiful indeed. 15. The farms are so many plots originally scooped out of woods ; though in King's and Queen's counties the land is generally pretty much deprived of the woods, which, as in every other part of America that I have seen, are beautiful beyond all description. The Walnut of two or three sorts, the Plane, the Hickory, Chesnut, Tulip Tree, Cedar, Sassafras, Wild Cherry (sometimes 60 feet high) ; more than fifty sorts of Oaks ; and many other trees, but especially the Flowering Locust, or Acacia, CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. which, in my opinion, surpasses all other trees, and some of which, in this Island, are of a very great height and girt. The Orchards constitute a feature of great beauty. Every farm has its orchard, and, in general, of cherries as well as of apples and 'pears. Of the cultivation and crops of these, I shall speak in another Part of the work. 1 6. There is one great draw-back to all these beauties, namely, the fences ; and, indeed, there is another with us South-of- England people, namely, the general (for there are many ex- ceptions) slovenliness about the homesteads, and particularly about the dwellings of labourers. Mr. Birkbeck complains of this ; and, indeed, what a contrast with the homesteads and cottages, which he left behind him near that exemplary spot, Guildford in Surrey ! Both blots are, however, easily accounted for. 17. The fences are of post and rail. This arose, in the first place, from the abundance of timber that men knew not how to dispose of. It is now become an affair of great expense in the populous parts of the country ; and, that it might, with great advantage and perfect ease, be got rid of, I shall clearly show in another part of my work. 18. The dwellings and gardens, and little out-houses of labourers, which form so striking a feature of beauty in England, and especially in Kent, Sussex, Surrey, and Hampshire, and which constitute a sort of fairy-land, when compared with those of the labourers in France, are what I, for my part, most feel the want of seeing upon Long Island. Instead of the neat and warm little cottage, the yard, cow-stable, pig-sty, hen-house, all in miniature, and the garden, nicely laid out and the paths bordered with flowers, while the cottage door is crowned with a garland of roses or honey-suckle ; instead of these, we here see the labourer content with a shell of boards, while all around him is as barren as the sea -beach ; though the natural earth would send melons, the finest in the world, creeping round his door, and though there is no English shrub, or flower, which will not grow and flourish here. This want of attention is such cases is hereditary from the first settlers. They found land so plenty, that they treated small spots with contempt. Besides, the example of neatness was wanting. There were no gentlemen's gardens, kept as clean as drawing-rooms, with grass as even as a carpet. From endeavour- ing to imitate perfection men arrive at mediocrity ; and, those who never have seen, or heard of perfection, in these matters, will naturally be slovens. 19. Yet, notwithstanding these blots, as I deem them, the face of the country, in summer, is very fine. From December to May, there is not a speck of green. No green-grass and turnips, and wheat, and rye, and rape, as in England. The frost comes and sweeps all vegetation and verdant existence from the face of the earth. The wheat and rye live ; but, they lose all their CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. verdure. Yet the state of things in June, is, as to crops, and fruits, much about what it is in England ; for, when things do begin to grow, they grow indeed ; and the general harvest for grain (what we call corn) is a full month earlier than in the South of England ! 20. Having now given a sketch of the face of the country, it only remains for me to speak in this place of the Climate and Seasons, because I shall sufficiently describe the Soil, when I come to treat of rny own actual experience of it. I do not like, in these cases, general descriptions, Indeed, they must be very imperfect ; and, therefore, I will just give a copy of a journal, kept by myself, from the 5th of May, 1817, to the 20th of April, 1 8 18. This, it appears to me, is the best way of proceeding ; for, then, there can be no deception ; and, therefore, I insert it as follows. 1817. May 5. Landed at New York. 6. Went over to Long Island. Very fine day, warm as May in England. The Peach-trees going out of bloom. Plum trees in full bloom. 7. Cold, sharp, East wind, just like that which makes the old debauchees in London shiver and shake. 8. A little frost in the night, and a warm day. 9. Cold in the shade and hot in the sun. 10. The weather has been dry for some time. The grass is only beginning to grow a little. 1 1 . Heavy thunder and rain in the night, and all this day. 12. Rain till noon. Then warm and beautiful. 13. Warm, fine day. Saw, in the garden, lettuces onions, carrots, and parsnips, just come up out of the ground. 14. Sharp, drying wind. People travel with great coats to be guarded against the morning and evening air. 15. Warm and fair. The farmers are beginning to plant their Indian Corn. 16. Dry wind, warm in the sun. Cherry trees begin to come out in bloom. The Oaks show no green yet. The Sassafras in flower, or, whatever else it is called. It resembles the Elder flower a good deal 17. Dry wind. Warmer than yesterday. An English April morning, that is to say, a sharp April morning, and a June day. 18. Warm and fine. Grass pushes on. Saw some Lucerne in a warm spot, 8 inches high. 19. Rain all day. Grass grows apace. People plant potatoes. CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC, 1817. May 20. Fine and warm. A good cow sells, with a calf by her side, for 45 dollars. A steer, two years old, 20 dollars. A working ox, five years old, 40 dollars. 21. Fine and warm day ; but the morning and evening coldish. The cherry-trees in full bloom, and the pear-trees nearly the same. Oats, sown in April, up, and look extremely fine. 22. Fine and warm. — Apple-trees fast coming into bloom. Oak buds breaking. 23. Fine and warm. — Things grow away. Saw kidney- beans up and looking pretty well. Saw some beets coming up. Not a sprig of parsley to be had for love or money. What improvidence ! Saw some cabbage plants up and in the fourth leaf. 24. Rain at night and all day to-day. Apple-trees in full bloom, and cherry-bloom falling off. 25. Fine and warm. 26. Dry coldish wind, but hot sun. The grass has pushed on most furiously. 27. Dry wind. Spaded up a corner of ground and sowed (in the natural earth) cucumbers and melons. Just the time, they tell me. 28. Warm and fair. 29. Cold wind ; but, the sun warm. No fires in par- lours now, except now-and-then in the mornings and evenings. 30. Fine and warm. — Apples have dropped their blos- soms. And now the grass, the wheat, the rye, and every thing, which has stood the year, or winter through, appear to have overtaken their like in Old England. 3 1 . Coldish morning and evening. June 1. Fine warm day ; but, saw a man, in the evening, covering something in a garden. It was kidney- beans , and he feared a frost ! To be sure, they are very tender things. I have had them nearly killed in England, by June frosts. 2. Rain and warm. — The oaks and all the trees, except the Flowering Locusts begin to look greenish. 3. Fine and warm. — The Indian Corn is generally come up ; but looks yellow in consequence of the cold nights and little frosts. N.B. — I ought here to describe to my English readers what this same Indian Corn is : — The Americans call it Corn, by way of eminence, and wheat, rye, barley and oats, which we confound under the name of corn, they confound under the name of grain. The Indian Corn in its ripe seed state, consists of an ear, which CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1817. June 3 is in the shape of a spruce- fir apple. The grains, each of which is about the bulk of the largest marrow- fat pea, are placed all round the stalk, which goes up the middle, and this little stalk, to which the seeds adhere, is called the Corn Cob. Some of these ears (of which from 1 to 4 grow upon a plant) are more than a foot long ; and I have seen many, each of which weighed more than eighteen ounces, avoir- dupois weight. They are long or short, heavy or light, according to the land and the culture. I was at a Tavern, in the village of North Hempstead, last fall (of 1 8 17) when I had just read, in the Courier English news-paper, of a Noble Lord who had been sent on his travels to France at ten years of age, and who, from his high-blooded ignorance of vulgar things, I suppose, had swallowed a whole ear of corn y which, as the newspaper told us, had well-nigh choaked the Noble Lord. The landlord had just been showing me some of his fine ears of Corn ; and I took the paper out of my pocket and read the paragraph : " What ! " said he, " swallow a whole ear of corn at once ! No wonder that they have swallowed up poor Old John Bull's substance." After a hearty laugh, we explained tp him, that it must have been wheat or barley. Then he said, and very justly, that the Lord must have been a much greater fool than a hog is. — The plant of the Indian corn grows, upon an average, to about 8 feet high, and sends forth the most beautiful leaves, resembling the broad leaf of the water flag. It is planted in hills or rows, so that the plough can go between the standing crop. Its stalks and leaves are the best of fodder, if carefully stacked ; and its grain is good for every thing. It is eaten by man and beast in all the various shapes of whole corn, meal, cracked, and every other way that can be imagined. It is tossed down to hogs, sheep, cattle, in the whole ear. The two former thresh for themselves, and the latter eat cob and all. It is eaten, and is a very delicious thing, in its half- ripe, or milky state ; and these were the " ears of corn " which the Pharisees complained of the Disciples for plucking off to eat on the Sabbath day ; for, how were they to eat wheat ears, unless after the manner of the " Noble Lord " above men- tioned ? Besides, the Indian Corn is a native of Palestine. The French, who, doubtless, brought it originally from the Levant, call it Turkish Corn. The Locusts, that John the Baptist lived on, were not 6 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1817. June 3. (as I used to wonder at when a boy) the noxious vermin that devoured the land of Egypt; butthebean, which comes in the long pods borne by the three- thorned Locust-tree, and of which I have an abun- dance here. The wild honey was the honey of wild bees ; and the hollow trees here contain swarms of them. The trees are cut, sometimes, in winter, and the part containing the swarm brought and placed near the house. I saw this lately in Pennsylvania. 4. Fine rain. Began about ten o'clock. 5. Rain nearly all day. 6. Fine and warm. Things grow surprizingly. 7. Fine and warm. Rather cold at night. 8. Hot. 9. Rain all day. The wood green, and so beautiful ! The leaves look so fresh and delicate ! But, the Flowering Locust only begins to show leaf. It will by and by, make up, by its beauty, for its shyness, at present. 10. Fine waim day. The cattle are up to their eyes in grass. 11. Fine warm day. Like the very, very finest in England in June. 12. Fine day. And, when I say fine, I mean really fine. Not a cloud in the sky. 13. Fine and hot. About as hot as the hottest of our English July weather in common years. Lucerne, -z\ feet high. 14. Fine and hot ; but, we have always a breeze when it is hot, which I did not formerly find in Pennsyl- vania. This arises, I suppose, from our nearness to the sea. 15. Rain all day. 16. Fine, beautiful day. Never saw such fine weather. Not a morsel of dirt. The ground sucks up all. I walk about and work in the land in shoes made of deer-skin. They are dressed white, like breeches- leather. I began to leave off my coat to-day, and do not expect to put it on again till October. My hat is a white chip, with broad brims. Never better health. 17. Fine day. The partridges (miscalled quails) begin to sit. The orchard full of birds' nests ; and, amongst others, a dove is sitting on her eggs in an apple tree. 18. Fine day. Green peas fit to gather in pretty early gardens, though only of the common hotspur sort. Mayduke cherries begin to be ripe. 7 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1817. June 19. Fine day. But, now comes my alarm ! The musquitoes, and, still worse, the common house-fly, which used to plague us so in Pennsylvania, and which were the only things I ever disliked belonging to the climate of America. Musquitoes are bred in stagnant water, of which here is none. Flies are bred in filth, of which none shall be near me as long as I can use a shovel and a broom. They will follow fresh meat and fish. Have neither, or be very care- ful. I have this day put all these precautions in practice ; and, now let us see the result. 20. Fine day. Carrots and parsnips, sown on the 3? and 4th instant, all up, and in rough leaf ! Onions up. The whole garden green in 18 days from the sowing. 21. Very hot. Thunder and heavy rain at night. 22. Fine day. May-duke cherries ripe. 23. Hot and close. Distant thunder. 24. Fine day. 25. Fine day. White-heart and black-heart cherries getting ripe. 26. Rain. Planted out cucumbers and melons. I find I am rather late. 27. Fine day. 28. Fine day. Gathered cherries for drying for winter use. 29. Fine day. 30. Rain all night. People are planting out their cab- bages for the winter crop. July 1. Fine day. Bought 20 bushels of English salt for half a dollar a bushel. 2. Fine day. 3. Fine day. 4. Fine day. Carrots, sown 3rd June, 3 inches high. 5. Very hot day. No flies yet. 6. Fine hot day. Currants ripe. Oats in haw. Rye nearly ripe. Indian corn two feet high. Hay- making nearly done. 7. Rain and thunder early in the morning. 8. Fine hot day. Wear no waistcoat now, except in the morning and evening. 9. Fine hot day. Apples to make puddings and pies ; but our housekeeper does not know how to make an apple-pudding. She puts the pieces of apple amongst the batter ! She has not read Peter Pindar. 10. Fine hot day. I work in the land morning and evening, and write in the day in a north room. The dress is now become a very convenient, or, rather, a 8 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1817. July 10. very little inconvenient affair. Shoes, trowsers, shirt and hat. No plague of dressing and un- dressing 1 11. Fine hot day in the morning, but began to grow dark in the afternoon. A sort of haze came over. 12. Very hot day. The common black cherries, the little red honey cherries, ail ripe now, and falling and rotting by the thousands of pounds weight. But, this place which I rent is remarkable for abundance of cherries. Some early peas, sown in the second week in June, fit for the table. This is thirty days from the time of sowing. No flies yet ! JVo musquitoes ! 13. Hot and heavy, like the pleading of a quarter- sessions lawyer. No breeze to-day, which is rarely the case. 14. Fine day. The Indian corn four feet high. 15. Fine day. We eat turnips sown on the second of June. Early cabbages (a gift) sown in May. 16. Fine hot day. Fine young onions, sown on the 8th of June. 17. Fine hot day. Harvest of wheat, rye, oats and barley, half done. But, indeed, what is it to do when the weather does so much 1 18. Fine hot day. 19. Rain all day. 20. Fine hot day, and some wind. All dry again as completely as if it had not rained for a year. 21. Fine hot day ; but heavy rain at night. Flies, a few. Not more than in England. My son John, who has just returned from Pennyslvania, says they are as great torments there as ever. At a friend's house (a farm house) there, two quarts of fties were caught in one window in one day I I do not believe that there are two quarts in all my premises. But, then, I cause all wash and slops to be carried forty yards from the house. I suffer no peelings or greens, or any rubbish, to lie near the house. I suffer no fresh meat to remain more than one day fresh in the house. I proscribe all fish. Do not suffer a dog to enter the house. Keep all pigs at a distance of sixty yards. And sweep all round about once every week at least. 22. Fine hot day. 23. Fine hot day. Sowed Buck-wheat in a piece of very poor ground. 24. Fine hot day. Harvest (for grain) nearly over. CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1817. July 24. The main part of the wheat, &c. is put into Barns, which are very large and commodious. Some they put into small ricks, or stacks, out in the fields, and there they stand, without any thatching, till they are wanted to be taken in during the winter, and, some- times they remain out for a whole year. Nothing can prove more clearly than this fact, the great difference between this climate and that of England, where, as every body knows, such stacks would be mere heaps of muck by January, if they were not, long and long before that time, carried clean of the farm by the wind. The crop is sometimes threshed out in the field by the feet of horses, as in the South of France. It is sometimes carried into the barn's floor, where three or four horses, or oxen, going abreast, trample out the grain as the sheaves, or swarths, are brought in. And this explains to us the humane precept of Moses, " not to muzzle the ox as he treadeth out the grain," which we country people in England cannot make out. I used to be puzzled, too, in the story of Ruth, to imagine how Boaz could be busy amongst his threshers in the height of harvest. — The weather is so fine, and the grain so dry, that, when the wheat and rye are threshed by the flail, the sheaves are barely untied, laid upon the floor, receive a few raps, and are then tied up, clean threshed for straw, without the order of the straws being in the least changed ! The ears and butts retain their places in the sheaf, and the band that tied the sheaf before ties it again. The straw is as bright as burnished gold. Not a speck in it. These facts will speak volumes to an English farmer, who will see with what ease work must be done in such a country. 25. Fine hot day. Early peas, mentioned before, harvested, in forty days from the sowing. Not more flies than in England. 26. Fine broiling day. The Indian Corn grows away now, and has, each plant, at least a tumbler full f of water standing in the sockets of its leaves, while the sun seems as if it would actually burn one. Yet we have a breeze ; and, under these fine shady Walnuts and Locusts and Oaks, and on the fine grass beneath, it is very pleasant. Woodcocks begin to come very thick about. 27. Fine broiler again. Some friends from England here to-day. We spent a pleasant day ; drank success to the Debt, and destruction to the Borough- CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1817. July 27. mongers, in gallons of milk and water. — Not more flies than in England. 28. Very, very hot. The Thermometer 85 degrees in the shade ; but a breeze. Never slept better in all my life. No covering. A sheet under me, and a straw bed. And then, so happy to have no clothes to put on but shoes and trowsers ! My window looks to the East. The moment the Aurora appears, I am in the Orchard. It is impossible for any human being to lead a pleasanter life than this. How I pity those, who are compelled to endure the stench of cities ; but, for those who remain there without being compelled, I have no pity. 29. Still the same degree of heat. I measured a water- melon runner, which grew eighteen inches in the last 48 hours. The dews now are equal to showers ; I frequently, in the morning, wash hands and face, feet and legs, in the dew on the high grass. The Indian Corn shoots up now so beautifully ! 30. Still melting hot. 31. Same weather. August 1 . Same weather. I take off two shirts a day wringing wet, I have a clothes-horse to hang them on to dry. Drink about 20 good tumblers of milk and water every day. No ailments. Head always clear. Go to bed by day-light very often. Just after the hens go to roost, and rise again with them. 2. Hotter and hotter, I think ; but, in this weather we always have our friendly breeze. — Not a single musquito yet. 3. Cloudy and a little shattering of rain ; but not enough to lay the dust. 4* Fine hot day. 5. A very little rain. Dried up in a minute. Planted cabbages with dust running into the holes. 6. Fine hot day. 7. Appearances forebode rain. — I have observed that, when rain is approaching, the stones (which are the rock stone of the country), with which a piazza adjoining the house is paved, get zvet. This wet appears, at first, at the top of each round stone, and, then, by degrees, goes all over it. Rain is sure to follow. It has never missed ; and, which is very curious, the rain lasts exactly as long as the stones take to get all over wet before it comes ! The stones dry again before the rain ceases. However, this foreknowledge of rain is of little use here ; for, when it comes, it is sure to be soon gone ,' and CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC 1817. August 7. to be succeeded by a sun, which restores all rights. I wondered, at first, why I never saw any baromeU in people's houses, as almost eveiy farmer has the in England. But, I soon found, that they wou be, if perfectly true, of no use. Early pears ripe. 8. Fine Rain. It comes pouring down. 9. Rain still, which has now lasted 60 hours. — Kill a lamb, and, in order to keep it fresh, sunk it do\ into the well. — The wind makes the Indian Co bend. 10. Fine clear hot day. The grass, which was bro\ the day before yesterday, is already beautifully gree In one place, where there appeared no signs < vegetation, the grass is two inches high. 11. No heavy rain at night 12. Hot and close. 13. Hot and close. 14. Hot and close. No breezes these three days. 15. Very hot indeed. 80 degrees in a North aspect at 9 in the evening. Three wet shirts to-day. Obliged to put on a dry shirt to go to bed in. 16. Very hot indeed. 85 degrees ; the thermometer hanging under the Locust trees and swinging about with the breeze. The dews are now like heavy showers. 17. Fine hot day. Very hot. I fight the Borough- villians, stripped to my shirt, and with nothing on besides, but shoes and trowsers. Never ill ; no head-aches ; no muddled brains. The milk and water is a great cause of this. I live on salads, other garden vegetables, apple-puddings and pies, butter, cheese {very good from Rhode Island), eggs, and bacon. Resolved to have no more fresh meat, 'till cooler weather comes. Those who have a mind to swallow, or be swallowed by, flies, may eat fresh meat for me. 18. Fine and hot. 19. Very hot. 20. Very hot ; but a breeze every day and night. — Buckwheat, sown 23rd July, 9 inches high, and, poor as the ground was, looks very well. 21. Fine hot day. 22. Fine hot day. 23. Fine hot day. I have now got an English woman servant, and she makes us famous apple-puddings. She says she has never read Peter Pindar's account of the dialogue between the King and the Cottage- 'CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. |8i 7- igust 23. woman ; and yet she knows very well how to get the apples within side of the paste. N.B. No man ought to come here, whose wife and daughters cannot make puddings and pies. 24. Fine hot day. 25. Fine hot day. 26. Fine hot day. 27. Fine hot day. Have not seen a cloud for many days. 28. Windy and rather coldish. Put on cotton stockings and a waistcoat with sleeves. Do not like this weather. 29. Same weather. Do not like it. 30. Fine and hot again. Give a great many apples to hogs. Get some hazle-nuts in the wild grounds. Larger than the English : and much about the same taste. 31. Fine hot day. Prodigious dews. Sept. 1. Fine and hot. 2. Fine and hot. 3. Famously hot. Fine breezes. Began imitating the Disciples, at least in their diet ; for, to-day, we began " plucking the ears of corn " in a patch planted in the garden on the second of June. But, we, in imitation of Pindar's pilgrim, take the liberty to boil our Corn. We shall not starve now. 4. Fine and hot. 83 degrees under the Locust-trees. 5. Very hot indeed, but fair, with our old breeze. 6. Same weather. 7. Same weather. 8. Same weather. 9. Rather hotter. We, amongst seven of us, eat about 25 ears of Corn a day. With me it wholly supplies the place of bread. It is the choicest gift of God to man, in the way of food. I remember, that Arthur Young observes, that the proof of a good climate is, that Indian Corn comes to perfection in it. Our Corn is very fine. I believe, that a wine-glass full of milk might be squeezed out of one ear. No wonder the Disciples were tempted to pluck it when they were hungry, though it was on the Sabbath day ! 10. Appearances for rain ; and, it is time ; for my neighbours began to cry out, and our rain-water cistern begins to shrink. The well is there, to be sure ; but, to pull up water from 70 feet is no joke, while it requires nearly as much sweat to get it up, as we get water. c 13 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1817. Sept. 11. No rain ; but cloudly. 83 degrees in the shade. 12. Rain and very hot in the morning. Thunder and heavy rain at night. 13. Cloudy and cool. Only 55 degrees in shade. 14. Cloudy and cool. 15. Fair and cool. Made a fire to write by. Don't like this weather. 16. Rain, warm. 17. Beautiful day. Not very hot. Just like a fine day in July in England after a rain. 18. Same weather. Wear stockings now and a waist- coat and neck-handkerchief. 19. Same weather. Finished our Indian Corn, which, on less than 4 rods, or perches, of ground, produced 447 ears. It was singularly well cultivated. It was the long yellow Corn. Seed given me by my excellent neighbour, Mr. John Tredwell. 20. Same weather. 21. S ame weather . 22. Same weather. 23. Cloudy and hotter. 24. Fine rain all last night and until ten o'clock to-day. 25. Beautiful day. 26. Same weather. 70 degrees in shade. Hot as the hot days in August in England. 27. Rain all last night. 28. Very fine and warm. Left off the stockings again. 29. Very fine, 70 degrees in shade. 30. Same weather. October 1. Same weather. Fresh meat keeps pretty well now. 2. Very fine ; but, there was a little frost this morning, which did not, however, affect the late sown Kidney Beans, which are as tender as the cucumber plant. 3. Cloudy and warm. 4. Very fine and warm, 70 degrees in shade. The apples are very fine. We are now cutting them and quinces, to dry for winter use. My neighbours give me quinces. We are also cutting up and drying peaches. 5. Very fine and warm. Dwarf Kidney beans very fine. 6. Very fine and warm. Cutting Buckwheat. 7. Very fine and warm. 65 degrees in shade at 7 o'clock this morning. — Windy in the afternoon. The wind is knocking down the fall-pipins for us. One picked up to-day weighed 12 I ounces avoir- dupois weight. The average weight is about 9 ounces, or, perhaps, 10 ounces. This is the finest 14 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1817. October 7. of all apples. Hardly any core. Some none at all. The richness of the pine-apple without the rough- ness. If the King could have seen one of these in a dumpling ! This is not the Newtown Pipin, which is sent to England in such quantities. That is a winter apple. Very fine at Christmas ; but far inferior to this fall-pipin, taking them both in their state of perfection. It is useless to send the trees to England, unless the heat of the sun and the rains and the dews could be sent along with the trees. 8. Very fine, 68 in shade. 9. Same weather. 10. Same weather, 59 degrees in shade. A little white frost this morning. It just touched the lips of the kidney bean leaves ; but, not those of the cucumbers or melons, which are near fences. IX. Beautiful day. 61 degrees in shade. Have not put on a coat yet. Wear thin stockings, or socks, waistcoat with sleeves, and neckcloth. In New York Market, Kidney Beans and Green peas. 12. Beautiful day. 70 degrees in shade. 13. Same weather. 14. Rain. 50 degrees in shade. Like a fine, warm, June rain in England. 15. Beautiful day. 56 degrees in shade. Here is a month of October / 16. Same weather. 51 degrees in shade. 17. Same weather, but a little warmer in the day. A smart frost this morning. The kidney beans, cu- cumber and melon plants pretty much cut by it. 18. A little rain in the night. A most beautiful day. 54 degrees in shade. A June day for England. 19. A very white frost this morning. Kidney beans, cucumbers, melons, all demolished ; but a beautiful day. 56 degrees in shade. 20. Another frost, and just such another day. Threshing Buckwheat in field. 21. No frost. 58 degrees in shade. 22. Finest of English June days. 67 degrees in shade. 23. Beautiful day. 70 degrees in shade. Very few summers in England that have a day hotter than this. It is this fine sun that makes the fine apples ! 24. Same weather precisely. Finished Buckwheat threshing and winnowing. The men have been away at a horse-race ; so that it has laid out in the field, partly threshed and partly not, for five days. If rain had come, it would have been of no con- sequence. All would have been dry again directly IS CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1817. October 24. afterwards. What a stew a man would be in, in England, if he had his grain lying about out of doors in this way ! The cost of threshing and winnowing 60 bushels was 7 dollars, iZ. 115. 6d. English money that is to say, 45. a quarter, or eight Winchester bushels. But, then, the carting was next to nothing. Therefore, though the labourers had a dollar a day each, the expense, upon the whole, was not so great as it would have been in England. So much does the climate do ! 25. Rain. A warm rain, like a fine June rain in England. 57 degrees in shade. The late frosts have killed, or, at least, pinched the leaves of the trees ; and they are now red, yellow, russet, brown, or of a dying green. Never was any thing so beautiful as the bright sun, shining through these fine lofty trees upon the gay verdure beneath. 26. Rain. Warm. 58 degrees in shade. This is the general Indian Corn harvest. 27. Rain. Warm. 58 degrees in shade. Put on coat, black hat, and black shoes. 28. Fine day. 56 degrees in shade. Pulled up a Radish that weighed 12 pounds ! I say twelve, and measured 2 feet 5 inches round. From com- mon English seed. 29. Very fine indeed. 30. Very fine and warm. 31. Very fine. 54 degrees in shade. Gathered our last lot of winter apples. Nov. 1. Rain all the last night and all this day. 2. Rain still. 54 degrees in shade. Warm. Things grow well. The grass very fine and luxuriant. 3. Very fine indeed. 56 in shade. Were it not for the colour of the leaves of the trees, all would look like June in England. 4. Very, very fine. Never saw such pleasant weather. Digging Potatoes. 5. Same weather precisely. 6. A little cloudy, but warm. 7. Most beautiful weather ! 63 degrees in shade. N.B. — This is November. 8. A little cloudy at night fall. 68 degrees in shade ; that is to say, English Summer heat all but 7 degrees . 9. Very fine. 10. Very fine. 11. Very fine. When I got up this morning, I found the thermometer hanging on the Locust trees, dripping with dew, at 62 degrees. Left off my coat again. 16 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC, 1817. Nov. 12. 13. 14. 15- 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. } D< Same weather. 69 degrees in shade. Beautiful day, but cooler. Same weather. 50 degrees in shade. The high-ways and paths as clean as a boarded floor ; that is to say, from dirt or mud. Gentle rain. 53 in shade. Like a gentle rain in May in England. Gentle rain. Warm. 56 in shade. What a November for an English man to see ! My white turnips have grown almost the whole of their growth in this month. The Swedish, planted late, grow surprisingly now, and have a luxuriancy of appear- ance exceeding any thing of the kind I ever saw. We have fine loaved lettuce, endive, young onions, young radishes, cauliflowers with heads five inches over. The rye fields grow beautifully. They have been food for cattle for a month, or six w r eeks, past. Cloudy. Warm. Same weather. 55 degrees in shade. Frost, and the ground pretty hard. Very fine indeed. Warm. 55 degrees in shade. Same weather. Cold, damp air, and cloudy. Smart frost at night. Same. Warm in the day time. Same ; but more warm in the day. Fine warm and beautiful day ; no frost at night. 57 degrees in shade. Same weather precisely ; but, we begin to fear the setting-in of winter, and I am very busy in covering up cabbages, mangle wurzle, turnips, beets, carrots, parsnips, parsley, &c, the mode of doing which (not less useful in England than here, though not so indis- pensably necessary) shall be described when I come to speak of the management of these several plants. Fine warm rain. 56 in shade. Very fair and pleasant, but frost sufficiently hard to put a stop to our getting up and stacking turnips. Still, however, the cattle and 6heep do pretty well upon the grass which is long and •^ dead. Fatting oxen we feed with the greens of Ruta Baga, with some corn (Indian, mind) tossed down to them in the ear. Sheep (ewes that had lambs in spring) we kill very fat from the grass. No dirt. What a clean and convenient soil i 17 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. ii 7 . Dec. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25- Thaw. No rain. We get on with our work again. Open mild weather. Same weather. Very pleasant. Rain began last night. Rain all day. Rain all day. The old Indian remark is, that the winter does not set in till the ponds be full. It is coming, then. Rain till 2 o'clock. We kill mutton now. Ewes brought from Connecticut, and sold to me here at 2 dollars each in July, just after shearing. I sell them now alive at 3 dollars each from the grass. Killed and sent to market, they leave me the loose fat for can- dles, and fetch about 3 dollars and a quarter besides. Sharp North West wind. This is the cold American Wind. " A North Wester " means all that can be imagined of clear in summer and cold in zvinter. I remember hearing from that venerable and excellent man, Mr. Baron Maseres, a very elegant eulogium on the Summer North Wester, in England. This is the only public servant that I ever heard of who refused a projfer'd augmentation of salary I A hardish frost. Open weather again. Fine mild day ; but began freezing at night-fall. Hard frost. Very sharp indeed. Thermometer down to 10 degrees ; that is to say, 22 degrees colder than barely freezing. Same weather. Makes us run, where we used to walk in the fall, and to saunter in the summer. It is no new thing to me / but it makes our other English people shrug up their shoulders. Frost greatly abated. Stones show for wet. It will come, in spite of all the fine serene sky, which we now see. A thaw. Servants made a lot of candles from mutton and beef fat, reserving the coarser parts to make soap. Rain. Had some English friends. Sirloin of own beef. Spent the evening in light of ozon candles, as handsome as I ever saw, and, I think the very best I ever saw. The reason is, that the tallow is fresh, and that it is unmixed with grease, which, and staleness, is the cause, I believe, of candles running, and plaguing us while we are using them. What an injury is it to the farmers in England, that they dare not, in this way, use their own produce : Is it not a 18 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC, 1817. Dec. 25. mockery to call a man free, who no more dares turn out his tallow into candles for his own use, than he dares rob upon the highway ? Yet, it is only by means of tyranny and extortion like this, that the hellish system of funding and of Seat-selling can be upheld. 26. Fine warm day. 52 degrees in shade. 27. Cold, but little frost. 28. Same weather. Fair and pleasant. The late sharp frost has changed to a complete yellow every leaf of some Swedish Turnips (Ruta Baga), left to take their chance. It is a poor chance, I believe ! 29. Same weather. 30. Rain all day. 31. Mild and clear. No frost. 1818. Jan. 1. Same weather. 2. Same weather. 3. Heavy rain. 4. A frost that makes us jump and skip about like larks. Very seasonable for a sluggish fellow. Prepared for winter. Patched up a boarded building, which was formerly a coach-house ; but, which is not so necessary to me, in that capacity, as in that of a fowl-house. The neighbours tell me, that the poultry will roost out on the trees all the winter, which, the weather being so dry in winter, is very likely ; and, indeed, they must, if they have no house, which is almost universally the case. How- ever, I mean to give the poor things a choice. I have lined the said ccach-house with cGrn-stalks and leaves of trees, and have tacked up cedar-boughs to hold the lining to the boards, and have laid a bed of leaves a foot thick all over the floor. I have secured all against dogs, and have made ladders for the fowls to go in at holes six feet from the ground. I have made pig-styes, lined round with cedar- boughs and well covered. A sheep-yard, for a score of ewes to have lambs in spring, surrounded with a hedge of cedar-boughs, and with a shed for the ewes to lie under, if they like. The oxen and cows are tied up in a stall. The dogs have a place, well covered, and lined with corn-stalks and leaves. And now, I can, without anxiety, sit by the fire, or lie in bed, and hear the North-Wester whistle. 5. Frost. Like what we call " a hard frost " in England. 6. Such another frost at night, but a thaw in the middle of the day. 19 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1818. Jan. 7. Little frost. Fine warm day. The sun seems loth to quit us. 8. Same weather. 9. A harder frost, and snow at night. The fowls, which have been peeping at my ladders for two or three evenings, and partially roosting in their house, made their general entry this evening ! They are the best judges of what is best for them. The turkeys boldly set the weather at defiance, and still roost on the top, the ridge, of the roof of the house. Their feathers prevent their legs from being frozen, and so it is with all poultry ; but, still, a house must, one would think, be better than the open air at this season. 10. Snow, but sloppy. I am now at New York on my way to Pennsylvania. N.B. — This journey into Pennsylvania had, for its principal object, an appeal to the justice of the Legislature of that State for redress for great loss and injury sustained by me, nearly twenty years ago, in consequence of the tyranny of one McKean, who was then the Chief Justice of that State. The appeal has not yet been successful ; but, as I confidently expect, that it finally will, I shall not, at present, say any thing more on the subject. My journey was productive of much and various observation, and, I trust, of useful knowledge. But, in this place, I shall do little more than give an account of the weather ; reserving for the Second Part, accounts of prices of land, &c, which will there come under their proper heads. 11. Frost but not hard. Now at New York. 12. Very sharp frost. Set off for Philadelphia. Broke down on the road in New Jersey. 13. Very hard frost still. Found the Delaware, which divides New Jersey from Pennsylvania, frozen over. Good roads now. Arrive at Philadelphia in the evening. 14. Same weather. 15. Same weather. The question eagerly put to me by every one in Philadelphia, is " Don't you think the city greatly improved " They seem to me to confound augmentation with improvement. It always was a fine city, since I first knew it ; and it is very greatly augmented. It has, I believe, nearly doubled its extent and number of houses since the year 1799. But, after being, for so long a time, familiar with London, every other place 20 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1818. Jan. 15. appears little. After living within a few hundreds of yards of Westminster Hall and the Abbey Church and the Bridge, and looking from my own windows into St. James's Park, all other buildings and spots appear mean and insignificant. I went to-day to see the house I formerly occupied. How small ! It is always thus : the words large and small are carried about with us in our minds, and we forget real dimensions. The idea, such as it was received, remains during our absence from the object. When I returned to England, in i8co, after an absence from the country parts of it, of sixteen years, the trees, the hedges, even the parks and woods, seemed so small ! It made me laugh to hear little gutters, that I could jump over, called Rivers ! The Thames was but a " Creek ! " But, when, in about a month after my arrival in London, I went to Farnham, the place of my birth, what was my sur- prise ! Every thing was become so pitifully small I I had to cross, in my post-chaise, the long and dreary heath of Bagshot. Then, at the end of it, to mount a hill, called Hungry Hill ; and from that hill I knew that I should look down into the beautiful and fertile vale of Farnham. My heart fluttered with impatience, mixed with a sort of fear, to see all the scenes of my childhood ; for I had learnt before, the death of my father and mother. There is a hill, not far from the town, called Crooksbury Hill, which rises up out of a flat, in the form of a cone, and is planted with Scotch fir trees. Here I used to take the eggs and young ones of crows and magpies. This hill was a famous object in the neighbourhood. It served as the superlative degree of height. " As high as Crooksbury Hill " meant, with us, the utmost degree of height. Therefore, the first object that my eyes sought was this hill. I could not believe my eyes I Literally speaking, I for a moment, thought the famous hill removed, and a little heap put in its stead ; for I had seen in New Brunswick, a single rock, or hill of solid rock, ten times as big, and four or five times as high ! The post-boy, going down hill, and not a bad road, whisked me, in a few minutes to the Bush Inn, from the garden of which I could see the prodigious sand hill, where I had begun my gardening works. What a nothing I But now came rushing into my mind, all at once, my pretty little garden, my little blue smock-frock, my little nailed shoes, my pretty 21 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1818. Jan. 15. pigeons that I used to feed out of my hands, the last kind words and tears of my gentle and tender- hearted and affectionate mother ! I hastened back into the room ! If I had looked a moment longer, I should have dropped. When I came to reflect, what a change ! I looked down at my dress. What a change ! What s'cenes I had gone through ! How altered my state ! I had dined the day before at a secretary of state's in company with Mr. Pitt, and had been waited upon by men in gaudy liveries ! I had had nobody to assist me in the world. No teachers of any sort. Nobody to shelter me from the consequence of bad, and no one to counsel me to good, behaviour. I felt proud. The distinctions of rank, birth, and wealth, all became nothing in my eyes ; and from that moment (less than a month after my arrival in England) I resolved never to bend before them. 16. Same weather. Went to see my old Quaker-friends at Bustleton, and particularly my beloved friend James Paul, who is very ill. Returned to Philadelphia. Little frost and a little snow. Moderate frost. Fine clear sky. The Philadelphians are cleanly, a quality which they owe chiefly to the Quakers. But, after being long and recently familiar with the towns in Surrey and Hampshire, and especially with Guildford, Alton, and Southampton, no other towns appear clean and neat, not even Bath or Salisbury, which last is much about upon a par, in point of cleanliness, with Philadelphia ; and, Salisbury is deemed a very cleanly place. Blandford and Dorchester are clean ; but, I have never yet seen any thing like the towns in Surrey and Hampshire. If a Frenchman, born and bred, could be taken up and carried blindfolded to Guildford, I wonder what his sensations would be, when he came to have the use of his sight ! Every thing near Guildford seems to have received an influence from the town. Hedges, gates, stiles, gardens, houses inside and out, and the dresses of the people. The market day at Guildford is a perfect shozv of cleanliness. Not even a carter without a clean smock-frock and closely-shaven and clean-washed face. Well may Mr. Birkbeck, who came from this very spot, think the people dirty in the western country ! I'll engage he finds more dirt upon the necks and faces of one family CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC, 3i8. Jan. 21. of his present neighbours, than he left behind him upon the skins of all the people in the three parishes of Guildford. However, he would not have found this to be the case in Pennsylvania, and especially in those parts where the Quakers abound ; and, I am told, that, in the New England States, the people are as cleanly and as neat as they are in England. The sweetest flowers, when they become putrid, stink the most ; and, a nasty woman is the nastiest thing in nature. 22. Hard frost. My business in Pennsylvania is with the legislature. It is sitting at Harrisburgh. Set off to-day by stage. Fine country ; fine barns ; fine farms. Must speak particularly of these in another place. Got to Lancaster. The largest inland town in the United States. A very clean and good town. No beggarly houses. All looks like ease and plenty. 23. Harder frost, but not very severe. Almost as cold as the weather was during the six weeks, continuance of the snow, in 18 14, in England. 24. The same weather continues. 25. A sort of half thaw. Sun warm. Harrisburgh is a new town, close on the left bank of the river Susquehannah, which is not frozen over, but has large quantities of ice floating on its waters. All vegetation, and all appearance of green, gone away. 26. Mild weather. Hardly any frost. 27. Thaws. Warm. Tired to death of the tavern at Harrisburgh, though a very good one. The cloth spread three times a day. Fish, fowl, meat, cakes, eggs, sausages ; all sorts of things in abundance. Board, lodging, civil but not servile waiting on, beer, tea, coffee, chocolate. Price, a dollar and a quarter a day. Here we meet altogether : senators, judges, lawyers, tradesmen, farmers, and all. I am weary of the everlasting loads of meat. Weary of being idle. How few such days have I spent in my whole life ! 28. Thaw and rain. My business not coming on, I went to a country tavern, hoping there to get a room to myself, in which to read my English papers, and sit down to writing. I am now at M'Allister's tavern, situated at the foot of the first ridge of mountains ; or rather, upon a little nook of land, close to the river, where the river has found a way through a break in the chain of mountains. Great enjoyment here. Sit and read and write. My mind is again in England. Mrs. M'Allister just 23 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1818. Jan. 28. suits me. Does not pester me with questions. Does not cram me with meat. Lets me eat and drink what I like, and when I like, and gives mugs of nice milk. I find, here, a very agreeable and instructive occasional companion, in Mr. M'Allis- ter the elder. But, of the various useful informa- tion, that I received from him, I must speak in the second part of this work. 29. Very hard frost this morning. Change very sudden. All about the house a glare of ice. 30. Not so hard. Icicles on the trees on the neighbouring mountains like so many millions of sparklings tones, when the sun shines, which is all the day. 31. Same weather. Two farmers of Lycoming county had heard that William Cobbett was here. They modestly introduced themselves. What a contrast with the " yeomanry cavalry ! " Feb. 1. Same weather. About the same as a " hard frost " in England. 2. Same weather. 3. Snow. 4. Little snow. Not much frost. This day, thirty- three years ago, I enlisted as a soldier. I always keep the day in recollection. 5. Having been to Harrisburgh on the second, returned to McAllister's to-day in a sleigh. The River begins to be frozen over. It is about a mile wide. 6. Little snow again, and hardish frost. 7. Now and then a little snow. Talk with some hop- growers. Prodigious crops in this neighbourhood ", but, of them in the Second Part. What would a Farnham man think of thirty hundred weight of hops upon four hundred hills, ploughed between, and the ground vines fed off by sheep 1 This is a very curious and interesting matter. 8. A real Frost. 9. Sharper. They say, that the thermometer is down to 10 degrees below nought. 10. A little milder ; but very cold indeed. The River completely frozen over, and sleighs and foot- passengers crossing in all directions. 11. Went back again to Harrisburgh. Mild frost. 12. Not being able to bear the idea of dancing attendance, came to Lancaster, in order to see more of this pretty town. A very fine Tavern (Slaymaker's) ; room to myself; excellent accommodations. Warm fires. Good and clean beds. Civil but not servile, land- lord. The eating still more overdone than at 24 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. Feb. 12. Harrisburgh. Never saw such profusion. I have made a bargain with the landlord : he is to give me a dish of chocolate a day, instead of dinner. Frost but mild. 13. Rain — A real rain, but rather cold. 14. A complete day of rain. 15. A hard frost ; much about like a hard frost in the naked parts of Wiltshire. — Mr. Hulme joined me on his way to Philadelphia from the city of Washington. 16. A hard frost. — Lancaster is a pretty place. No fine buildings ; but no mean ones. Nothing splendid and nothing beggarly. The people of this town seem to have had the prayer of Hagar granted them : " Give me, O Lord, neither poverty nor riches." Here are none of those poor, wretched habitations, which sicken the sight at the outskirts of cities and towns in England ; those abodes of the poor crea- tures, who have been reduced to beggary by the cruel extortions of the rich and powerful. And, this remark applies to all the towns of America that I have ever seen. This is a fine part of America. Big Barns, and modest dwelling houses. Barns of stone, a hundred feet long and forty wide, with two floors, and raised roads to go into them, so that the waggons go into the first floor upstairs. Below are stables, stalls, pens, and all sorts of conveniences. Up-stairs are rooms for threshed corn and grain ; for tackle, for meal, for all sorts of things. In the front (South) of the barn is the cattle yard. These are very fine buildings. And, then, all about them looks so comfortable, and gives such manifest proofs of ease, plenty, and happiness ! Such is the country of William Penn's settling ! It is a curious thing to observe the farm-houses in this country. They consist, almost without exception, of a considerably large and a very neat house, with sash windows, and of a small house, which seems to have been tacked on to the large one ; and, the proportion they bear to each other, in point of dimensions, is, as nearly as possible, the proportion of size between a Cow and her Calf, the latter a month old. But, as to the cause, the process has been the opposite of this instance of the works of nature, for, it is the large house which has grown out of the small one. The father, or grandfather, while he was toiling for his children, lived in the small house, constructed chiefly by himself, and consisting of rude materials. 25 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1818. Feb. 16. The means, accumulated in the small house, enabled a son to rear the large one ; and, though, when pride enters the door, the small house is sometimes demolished, few sons in America have the folly or want of feeling to commit such acts of filial in- gratitude, and of real self-abasement. For, what inheritance so valuable and so honourable can a son enjoy as the proofs of his father's industry and virtue ? The progress of wealth and ease and enjoyment, evinced by this regular increase of the size of the farmers' dwellings, is a spectacle, at once pleasing, in a very high degree, in itself ; and, in the same degree, it speaks the praise of the system of government, under which it has taken place. What a contrast with the farm-houses in England ! There the little farm-houses are falling into ruins, or, are actually become cattle-sheds, or, at best, cottages, as they are called, to contain a miserable labourer, who ought to have been a farmer, as his grandfather was. Five or six farms are there now levelled into one, in defiance of the law : for, there is a law to prevent it. The farmer has, indeed, a fine house : but, what a life do his labourers lead ! The cause of this sad change is to be found in the crushing taxes ; and the cause of them, in the Borough usurpation, which has robbed the people of their best right, and, indeed, without which right, they can enjoy no other. They talk of the augmented population of England ; and, when it suits the pur- poses of the tyrants, they boast of this fact, as they .are pleased to call it, as a proof of the fostering nature of their government ; though, just now, they are preaching up the vile and foolish doctrine of Parson Malthus, who thinks, that there are too many people, and that they ought (those who labour, at least) to be restrained from breeding so fast. But, as to the fact, I do not believe it. There can be nothing in the shape of proof : for no actual enum- eration was ever taken till the year 1800. We know well, that London, Manchester, Birmingham, Bath, Portsmouth, Plymouth, and all Lancashire and Yorkshire, and some other countries, have got a vast increase of miserable beings huddled together. But, look at Devonshire, Somersetshire, Dorset- shire, Wiltshire, Hampshire, and other counties. You will there see hundreds of thousands of acres of land, where the old marks of the plough are visible, but which have not been cultivated for, perhaps, 26 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1818. Feb. 16. half a century. You will there see places, that were once considerable towns and villages, now having, within their ancient limits, nothing but a few cottages, the Parsonage and a single Farm-house. It is a curious and a melancholy sight, where an ancient church, with its lofty spire or tower, the church sufficient to contain a thousand or two or three thousand of people conveniently, now stands surrounded by a score or half a score of miserable mud houses, with floors of earth, and covered with thatch ; and this sight strikes your eye in all parts of the five Western counties of England. Surely these churches were not built without the existence of a population somewhat proportionate to their size ! Certainly not ; for the churches are of various sizes, and, we sometimes see them very small indeed. Let any man look at the sides of the hills in these counties, and also in Hampshire, where downs, or open lands, prevail. He will there see, not only that those hills were formerly cultivated ; but, that banks, from distance to distance, were made by the spade, in oider to form little flats for the plough to go, without tumbling the earth down the hill ; so that the side of a hill looks, in some sort, like the steps of a stairs. Was this done without hands, and without mouths to consume the grain raised on the sides of these hills ? The Funding and Manufacturing and Commercial and Taxing System has, by drawing wealth into great masses, drawn men also into great masses. London, the manufacturing places, Bath, and other places of dissipation, have, indeed, wonderfully increased in population. Country seats, Parks, Pleasure-gar- dens, have, in like degree, increased in number and extent. And, in just the same proportion has been the increase of Poor-houses, Mad-houses, and Jails. But, the people of England, such as Fortescue described them, have been swept away by the ruth- less hand of the Aristocracy, who, making their approaches by slow degrees, have, at last, got into their grasp the substance of the whole country. 17. Frost, not very hard. Went back to Harrisburgh. 18. Same weather. Very fine. Warm in the middle of the day. 19. Same weather. — Quitted Harrisburgh, very much displeased : but, on this subject, I shall, if possible, keep silence, till next year, and until the People of Pennsylvania have had time to reflect ; to clearly 27 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1818. Feb. 19. understand my affair ; and when they do under- stand it, I am not at all afraid of receiving justice at their hands, whether I am present or absent. Slept at Lancaster. One night more in this very excellent Tavern. 20. Frost still. Arrived at Philadelphia along with my friend Hulme. They are roasting an ox on the Delaware. The fooleries of England are copied here, and every where in this country, with wonder- ful avidity ; and, I wish I could say, that some of the vices of our " higher orders" as they have the im- pudence to call themselves, were not also imitated. However, I look principally at the mass of farmers ; the sensible and happy farmers of America. 21. Thaw and Rain. — The severe weather is over for this year. 22. Thaw and Rain. A solid day of rain. 23. Little frost at night. Fine market. Fine meat of all sorts. As fat mutton as I ever saw. How mis- taken Mr. Birkbeck is about American mutton I 24. Same weather. Very fair days now. 25. Went to Bustleton with my old friend, Mr. John Morgan. 26. Returned to Philadelphia. Roads very dirty and heavy. 27. Complete thaw : but it will be long before the frost be out of the ground. 28. Same weather. Very warm. I hate this weather. Hot upon my back, and melting ice under my feet. The people (those who have been lazy) are chopping away with axes the ice, which has grown out of the snows and rains, before their doors, during the winter. The hogs (best of scavengers) are very busy in the streets seeking out the bones and bits of meat, which have been flung out and frozen down amidst water and snow, during the two foregoing months. I mean including the present month. At New York (and, I think, at Philadelphia also) they have corporation laws to prevent hogs from being in the streets. For what reason, I know not, except putrid meat be pleasant to the smell of the in- habitants. But, Corporations are seldom the wisest of law-makers. It is argued, that, if there were no hogs in the streets, people would not throw out their orts of flesh and vegetables. Indeed ! What would they do with those orts, then ? Make their hired servants eat them ? The very proposition would leave them to cook and wash for themselves. 28 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC, 1818. Feb. 28. Where, then, are they to fling .these effects of super- abundance ? Just before I left New York for Philadelphia, I saw a sow very comfortably dining upon a full quarter part of what appeared to have been a fine leg of mutton. How many a family in England would, if within reach, have seized this meat from the sow ! And, are the tyrants, who have brought my industrious countrymen to that horrid state of misery, never to be called to account ? Are they always to carry it as they now do ? Every object almost, that strikes my view, sends my mind and heart back to England. In viewing the ease and happiness of this people, the contrast fills my soul with indignation, and makes it more and more the object of my life to assist in the destruction of the diabolical usurpation, which has trampled on king as well as people. March z. Rain. Dined with my old friend Severne, an honest Norfolk man, who used to carry his milk about the streets, when I first knew him, but, who is now a man of considerable property, and, like a wise man, lives in the same modest house where he formerly lived. Excellent roast beef and plum pudding. At his house I found an Englishman, and, from Botley too ! I had been told of such a man being in Philadelphia, and that the man said, that he had heard of me, " heard of such a gentleman , but did not know much of him.'" This was odd ! I was desirous of seeing this man. Mr. Severne got him into his house. His name is Yere. I knew him the moment I saw him ; and, I wondered why it was that he knew so little of me. I found, that he wanted work, and that he had been assisted by some society in Philadelphia. He said he was lame, and he might be a little, perhaps. / offered him work at once. No : he wanted to have the care of a farm ! " Go," said I, " for shame, and ask some farmers for " work. You will find it immediately, and with " good wages. What should the people in this " country see in your face to induce them to keep " you in idleness. They did not send for you. " You are a young man, and you come from a " country of able labourers. You may be rich if " you will work. This gentleman who is now " about to cram you with roast beef and plum " pudding came to this city nearly as poor as you " are ; and, I first came to this country in no better " plight. Work, and I wish you well ; be idle, and D 29 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1818. March 1. " you ought to starve." He told me, then, that he was a hoop-maker : and yet, observe, he wanted to have the care of a farm. N.B. If this book should ever reach the hands of Mr. Richard Hinxman, my excellent good friend of Chilling, I beg him to show this note to Mr. Nicholas Freemantle, of Botley. He will know well all about this Vere. Tell Mr. Freemantle, that the Spaniels are beautiful, that Woodcocks breed here in abundance ; and tell him, above all, that I frequently think of him as a pattern of in- dustry in business, of skill and perseverance and good humour as a sportsman, and of honesty and kindness as a neighbour. Indeed, I have pleasure in thinking of all my Botley neighbours, except the Parson, who for their sakes, I wish, however, was my neighbour now : for here he might pursue his calling very quietly. 2. Open weather. Went to Bustleton, after having seen Messrs. Stevens and Pendrill, and advised them to forward to me affidavits of what they knew about Oliver, the spy of the Boroughmongers. 3. Frost in the morning. Thaw in the day. 4. Same weather in the night. Rain all day. 5. Hard frost. Snow 3 inches deep. 6. Hard frost. About as cold as a hard frost in January in England. 7. Same weather. 8. Thaw. Dry and fine. 9. Same weather. Took leave, I fear for ever, of my old and kind friend, James Paul. His brother and son promise to come and see me here. I have pledged myself to transplant 10 acres of Indian Corn ; and, if I write, in August, and say that it is good, Thomas Paul has promised that he will come ; for, he thinks that the scheme is a mad one. 10. Same weather. — Mr. Varee, a son-in-law of Mr. James Paul, brought me yesterday to another son- in-law's, Mr. Ezra Townshend at Bibery. Here I am amongst the thick of the Quakers, whose houses and families pleased me so much formerly, and which pleasure is all now revived. Here all is ease, plenty, and cheerfulness. These people are never giggling, and never in low-spirits. Their minds, like their dress, are simple and strong. Their kindness is shown more in acts than in words. Let others say what they will, I have uniformly found those whom I have intimately known of this sect, sincere 30 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1818. March 10. and upright men ; and I verily believe, that all those charges of hypocrisy and craft, that we hear against Quakers, arise from a feeling of envy : envy inspired by seeing them possessed of such abundance of all those things, which are the fair fruits of care, in- dustry, economy, sobriety, and order, and which are justly forbidden to the drunkard, the glutton, the prodigal, and the lazy. As the day of my coming to Mr. Townshend's had been announced before- hand, several of the young men, who were babies when I used to be there formerly, came to see " Billy Cobbett," of whom they had heard and read so much. When I saw them and heard them, " What a contrast" said I to myself, " with the " senseless, gaudy, upstart, hectoring, insolent, and " cruel Yeomanry Cavalry in England, who, while f ' they grind their labourers into the revolt of starva- " tion, gallantly sally forth with their sabres, to " chop them down at the command of a Secretary " of State ; and, who, the next moment, creep and " fawn like spaniels before their Boroughmonger " Landlords ! " At Mr. Townshend's I saw a man, in his service, lately from Yorkshire, but an Irishman by birth. He wished to have an oppor- tunity to see me. He had read many of my " little books." I shook him by the hand, told him he had now got a good house over his head and a kind employer, and advised him not to move for one year, and to save his wages during that year. 11. Same open weather. — I am now at Trenton, in New Jersey, waiting for something to carry me on towards New York. — Yesterday, Mr. Townshend sent me on, under an escort of Quakers, to Mr. Anthony Taylor's. He was formerly a merchant in Phila- delphia, and now lives in his very pretty country- house, on a very beautiful farm. He has some as fine and fat oxen as we generally see at Smithfield market in London. I think they will weight sixty score each. Fine farm yard. Everything belonging to the farm good, but what a neglectful gardener ! Saw some white thorns here (brought from England) which, if I had wanted any proof, would have clearly proved to me, that they would, with less care, make as good hedges here as they do at Farnham in Surrey. But, in another Part, I shall give full information upon this head. Here my escort quitted me ; but, luckily, Mr. Newbold, who lives about ten miles nearer Trenton than Mr. Taylor does, brought me 3i CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1818. March n. on to his house. He is a much better gardener, or, rather, to speak the truth, has succeeded a better, whose example he has followed in part. But, his farm yard and buildings ! This was a sight indeed I Forty head of horn cattle in a yard, enclosed with a stone wall ; and five hundred merino ewes, besides young lambs, in the finest, most spacious, best con- trived, and most substantially built sheds I ever saw. The barn surpassed all that I had seen before. His house (large, commodious, and handsome) stands about two hundred yards from the turnpike road, leading from Philadelphia to New York, and looks on and over the Delaware which runs parallel with the road, and has, surrounding it, and at the back of it, five hundred acres of land, level as a lawn, and two feet deep in loom, that never requires a water furrow. This was the finest sight that I ever saw as to farm-buildings and land. I forgot to observe, that I saw in Mr. Taylor's service, another man recently arrived from England. A Yorkshire man. He, too, wished to see me. He had got some of my " little books," which he had preserved, and brought out with him. Mr. Taylor was much pleased with him. An active, smart man ; and, if he follow my advice, to remain a year under one roof, and save his wages, he will, in a few years, be a rich man. These men must be brutes indeed not to be sensible of the great kindness and gentleness and liberality, with which they are treated. Mr. Taylor came, this morning, to Mr. Newbold's, and brought me on to Trenton. I am at the stage-tavern, where I have just dined upon cold ham, cold veal, butter and cheese, and a peach-pye ; nice clean room, well furnished, waiter clean and attentive, plenty of milk ; and charge, a quarter of a dollar ! I thought, that Mrs. Joslin at Princestown (as I went on to Philadelphia), Mrs. Benler at Harrisburgh, Mr. Slaymaker at Lancaster, and Mrs. M'Allister, were low enough in all conscience ; but, really, this charge of Mrs. Anderson beats all. I had not the face to pay the waiter a quarter of a dollar ; but gave him half a dollar, and told him to keep the change. He is a black man. He thanked me. But, they never ask for any thing. But, my vehicle is come, and now I bid adieu to Trenton, which I should have liked better, if I had not seen so many young fellows lounging about the streets, and leaning against door-posts, with quids 32 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1818. March 11. of tobacco in their mouths, or segars stuck between their lips, and with dirty hands and faces. Mr. Birkbeck's complaint, on this score, is perfectly- just. Brunswick, New Jersey. Here I am, after a ride of about 30 miles, since two o'clock, in what is called a Jersey- waggon, through such mud as I never saw before. Up to the stock of the wheel ; and yet a pair of very little horses have dragged us through it in the space of five hours. The best horses and driver, and the worst roads I ever set my eyes on. This part of Jersey is a sad spectacle, after leaving the brightest of all the bright parts of Pennsylvania. My driver, who is a tavern-keeper himself, would have been a very pleasant companion, if he had not drunk so much spirits on the road. This is the great misfortune of America ! As we were going up a hill very slowly, I could perceive him looking very hard at my cheek for some time. At last, he said : " I am wondering, Sir, to see you look so fresh and " so young, considering what you have gone through " in the world " ; though I cannot imagine how he had learnt who I was. " I'll tell you," said I, " how I have contrived the thing. I rise early, go " to bed early, eat sparingly, never drink any thing " stronger than small beer, shave once a day, and " wash my hands and face clean three times a day, " at the very least." He said, that was too much to think of doing. 12. Warm and fair. Like an English first of May in point of warmth. I got to Elizabeth Town Point through beds of mud. Twenty minutes too late for the steam-boat. Have to wait here at the tavern till to-morrow. Great mortification. Supped with a Connecticut farmer, who was taking on his daughter to Little York in Pennsylvania. The rest of his family he took on in the fall. He has migrated. His reasons were these : he has five sons, the eldest 19 years of age, and several daughters. Connecticut is thickly settled. He has not the means to buy farms for the sons there. He, therefore, goes and gets cheap land in Pennsylvania ; his sons will assist him to clear it ; and, thus, they will have a farm each. To a man in such circumstances, and " born " with an axe in one hand, and a gun in the other," the western countries are desirable ; but not to English farmers, who have great skill in fine cultiva- tion, and who can purchase near New York or 33 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC, 1818. March 12. Philadelphia. This Yankee (the inhabitants of Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts and New Hampshire, only, are called Yankees) was about the age of Sir Francis Burdett, and, if he had been dressed in the usual clothes of Sir Francis, would have passed for him. Features, hair, eyes, height, make, manner, look, hasty utterance at times, musical voice, frank deportment, pleasant smile. All the very fac-simile of him. I had some early York cabbage seed and some cauliflower seed in my pocket, which had been sent me from London, in a letter, and which had reached me at Harris- burgh. I could not help giving him a little of each. 13. Same weather. A fine open day. Rather a cold May-day for England. Came to New York by the steam-boat. Over to this island by another, took a little light waggon, that whisked me home over roads as dry and as smooth as gravel walks in an English bishop's garden in the month of July. Great contrast with the bottomless muds of New Jersey ! As I came along, saw those fields of rye, which were so green in December, now white. Not a single sprig of green on the face of tfye earth. Found that my man had ploughed ten acres of ground. The frost not quite clean out of the ground. It has penetrated two feet eight inches. The weather here has been nearly about the same as in Pennsylvania ; only less snow, and less rain. 14. Open weather. Very fine. Not quite so warm. 15. Same weather. Young chickens. I hear of no other in the neighbourhood. This is the effect of my warm fowl-house ! The house has been supplied with eggs all the winter, without any interruption. I am told, that this has been the case at no other house hereabouts. We have now an abundance of ^ eggs. More than a large family can consume. * We send some to market. The fowls, I find, have wanted no feeding except during the snow, or, in the very, very cold days, when they did not come out of their house all the day. A certain proof that they like the warmth. 16. Little frost in the morning. Very fine day. 17. Precisely same weather. 18. Same weather. 19. Same weather. 20. Same weather. Opened several pits, in which I had preserved all sorts of garden plants and roots, and apples. Valuable experiments. As useful in 34 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1818. March 20. England as here, though not so absolutely ne- cessary. I shall communicate these in another part of ray work, under the head of gardening. 21. Same weather. The day like a fine May-day in England. I am writing without fire, and in my waistcoat without coat. 22. Rain all last night, and all this day. 23. Mild and fine. A sow had a litter of pigs in the leaves under the trees. Judge of the weather by this. The wind blows cold ; but, she has drawn together great heaps of leaves, and protects her young ones with surprising sagacity and exemplary care and fondness. 24. Same weather. 25. Still mild and fair. 26. Very cold wind. We try to get the sow and pigs into the buildings. But the pigs do not follow, and we cannot, with all our temptations of corn and all our caresses, get the sow to move without them by her side. She must remain 'till they choose to travel. How does nature, through the conduct of this animal, reproach those mothers, who cast off their new-born infants to depend on a hireling's breast ! Let every young man, before he marry, read, upon this subject, the pretty poem of Mr. Roscoe, called " the Nurse " ; and, let him also read, on the same subject, the eloquent, beautiful, and soul-affecting passage, in Rousseau's " Emile." 27. Fine warm day. Then high wind, rain, snow, and hard frost before morning. 28. Hard frost. Snow 3 inches deep. 29. Frost in the night ; but, all thawed in the day, and very warm. 30. Frost in night. Fine warm day. 31. Fine warm day. — As the winter is now gone, let us take a look back at its inconveniences compared with those of an English Winter. — We have had three months of it ; for, if we had a few sharp days in December, we have had many very fine and without fire in March. In England winter really begins in November, and does not end 'till Mid-March. Here we have greater cold : there four times as much wet. I have had my great coat on only twice, except when sitting in a stage, travelling. I have had gloves on no oftener ; for, I do not, like the Clerks of the Houses of Boroughrnongers, write in gloves. I seldom meet a waggoner with gloves or great coat on. It is generally so dry. This is the great friend 35 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1818. March 31, April 9- 10. of man and beast. Last summer / wrote home for nails to nail my shoes for zuinter. I could find none here. What a foolish people, not to have shoe- nails ! I forgot, that it was likely, that the absence of shoe-nails argued an absence of the want of them. The nails are not come ; and I have not wanted them. There is no dirt, except for about ten days at the breaking up of the frost. The dress of a labourer does not cost half so much as in England. This dryness is singularly favourable to all animals. They are hurt far less by dry cold, than by warm drip, drip, drip, as it is in England. — There has been nothing green in the garden, that is to say, above ground, since December ; but, we have had, all winter, and have now, white cabbages, green savoys, parsnips, carrots, beets, young onions, radishes, white turnips, Swedish turnips, and potatoes : and all these in abundance (except radishes, which were a few to try), and always at hand at a minute's warning. The modes of preserving will be given in another part of the work. What can any body want more than these things in the garden way ? However it would be very easy to add to the catalogue. Apples, quinces, cherries, currants, peaches, dried in the summer, and excellent for tarts and pies. Apples in their raw state, as many as we please. My own stock being gone, I have trucked turnips for apples ; and shall thus have them, if I please, 'till apples come again on the trees. I give two bushels and a half of Swedish turnips for one of apples ; and, mind, this is on the last day of March. — I have here stated facts, whereby to judge of the winter ; and I leave the English reader to judge for himself, I myself decidedly preferring the American winter. Very fine and warm. Same weather. Same weather. Rain all day. Rain all day. Our cistern and pool full. Warm, but no sun. — Turkeys begin to lay. Same weather. My first spring operations in gardening are now going on ; but I must reserve an account of them for another Part of my work. Warm and fair. Rain and rather cold. Fair but cold. It rained but yesterday, and we are to-day, feeding sheep and lambs with grain of corn and with oats, upon the ground in the orchard. 36 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. 1818. April 10. Judge, then, of the cleanness and convenience of this soil ! 11. Fine and warm. 12. Warm and fair. 13. Warm and fair. 14. Drying wind and miserably cold. Fires again in day-time, which I have not had for some days past. 15. Warm, like a fine May-day in England. We are planting out selected roots for seed. 16. Rain all last night. — Warm. Very fine indeed. 17. Fine warm day. Heavy thunder and rain at night. The Martins (not swallows) are come into the barn and are looking out sites for the habitations of their future young ones. 18. Cold and raw. Damp, too, which is extremely rare. The worst day I have yet seen during the year. Stops the grass, stops the swelling of the buds. The young chickens hardly peep out from under the wings of the hens. The lambs don't play, but stand knit up. The pigs growl and squeak ; and the birds are gone away to the woods again. 19. Same weather with an Easterly wind. Just such a wind as that, which, in March, brushes round the corners of the streets of London, and makes the old, mufned-up debauchees hurry home with acking joints. Some hail to-day. 20. Same weather. Just the weather to give drunkards the " blue devils." 21. Frost this morning. Ice as thick as a dollar. — Snow three times. Once to cover the ground. Went off again directly. 22. Frost and ice in the morning, A very fine day, but not warm. Dandelions blow. 23. Sharp white frost in morning. Warm and fine day. 24. Warm night, warm and fair day. And here I close my Journal : for, I am in haste to get my manu- script away ; and there now wants only ten days to complete the year. — I resume, now, the Numbering of my Paragraphs, having begun my Journal at the close of Paragraph No. 20. 21. Let us, now, take a survey, or rather glance, at the face, which nature now wears. The grass begins to afford a good deal for sheep and for my grazing English pigs, and the cows and oxen get a little food from it. The pears, apples, and other fruit trees, have not made much progress in the swelling or bursting of their buds. The buds of the weeping- willow have bursted (for, in spite 37 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. of that conceited ass, Mr. James Perry, to burst is a regular verb, and vulgar pedants only make it irregular), and those of a Lilac, in a warm place, are almost bursted, which is a great deal better than to say, " almost burst." Oh, the coxcomb ! As if an absolute pedagogue like him could injure me by his criticisms ! And, as if an error like this, even if it had been one, could have any thing to do with my capacity for developing principles, and for simplifying things, which, in their nature, are of great com- plexity ! — The oaks, which, in England, have now their sap in full flow, are here quite unmoved as yet. In the gardens in general there is nothing green, while, in England, they have broccoli to eat, early cabbages planted out, coleworts to eat, peas four or five inches high. Yet, we shall have green peas and loaved cabbages as soon as they will. We have sprouts from the cabbage stems preserved under cover ; the Swedish turnip is giving me greens from bulbs planted out in March ; and I have some broccoli too y just coming on for use. How I have got this broccoli I must explain in my Gardeners Guide : for write one I must. I never can leave this country without an attempt to make every farmer a gardener. — In the meat way, we have beef, mutton, bacon, fowls, a calf to kill in a fortnight's time, sucking pigs when we choose, lamb nearly fit to kill ; and all of our own breeding, or our own feeding. We kill an ox, send three quarters and the hide to market and keep one quarter. Then a sheep, which we use in the same way. The bacon is always ready. Some fowls always fatting. Young ducks are just coming out to meet the green peas. Chickens (the earliest) as big as American Partridges (misnamed quails), and ready for the asparagus, which is just coming out of the ground. Eggs at all times more than we can consume. And, if there be any one, who wants better fare than this, let the grumbling glutton come to that poverty, which Solomon has said shall be his lot. And, the great thing of all, is, that here, every man, even every labourer, may live as well as this, if he will be sober and industrious. 22. There are two things, which I have not yet mentioned, and which are almost wholly wanting here, while they are so amply enjoyed in England. The singing birds and the flowers. Here are many birds in summer, and some of very beautiful plumage. There are some wild flowers, and some English flowers in the best gardens. But, generally speaking, they are birds without song, and flowers without smell. The linnet (more than a thousand of which I have heard warbling upon one scrubbed oak on the sand hills in Surrey), the sky-lark, the goldfinch, the wood-lark, the nightingale, the bull-finch, the black-bird, the thrush, and all the rest of the singing tribe are wanting in these beautiful woods and orchards of garlands. — When these latter have dropped their bloom, all is gone in the flowery way. No shepherd's rose, no honey-suckle, none of that endless variety of beauties that decorate the hedges and the meadows in England. No daisies, no prim- 38 CLIMATE, SEASONS, ETC. roses, no cowslips, no blue-bells, no daffodils, which, as if it were not enough for them to charm the sight and the smell, must have names, too, to delight the ear. All these are wanting in America . Here are, indeed, birds, which bear the name of robin, blackbird, thrush, and goldfinch ; but, alas ! the thing at Westminster has, in like manner, the name of parliament, and speaks the voice of the people, whom it pretends to represent, in much about the same degree that the black-bird here speaks the voice of its namesake in England. 23. Of health, I have not yet spoken, and, though it will be a subject of remark in another part of my work, it is a matter of too deep interest to be wholly passed over here. In the first place, as to myself, I have always had excellent health ; but, during a year, in England, I used to have a cold or two ; a trifling sore throat ; or something in that way. Here, I have neither, though I was more than two months of the winter travelling about, and sleeping in different beds. My family have been more healthy than in England, though, indeed, there has seldom been any serious illness in it. We have had but one visit from any Doctor. Thus much, for the present, on this subject. I said, in the second Register I sent home, that this climate was not so good as that of England. Experience, observation, a careful attention to real facts, have convinced me that it is, upon the whole, a better climate ; though I tremble lest the tools of the Boroughmongers should cite this as a new and most flagrant instance of inconsistency. England is my country, and to England I shall return. I like it best, and shall always like it best ; but, then, in the word England, many things are included besides climate and soil and seasons, and eating and drinking. 24. In the Second Part of this work, which will follow the first Part in the course of two months, I shall take particular pains to detail all that is within my knowledge, which I think likely to be useful to persons who intend coming to this country from England. I shall take every particular of the expence of supporting a family, and show what are the means to be obtained for that purpose, and how they are to be obtained. My intending to return to England ought to deter no one from coming hither ; because, I was resolved, if I had life, to return, and I expressed that resolution before I came away. But if there are good and virtuous men, who can do no good there, and who, by coming hither can withdraw the fruits of their honest labour from the grasp of the Borough tyrants, I am bound, if I speak of this country at all, to tell them the real truth ; and this, as far as I have gone, I have now done. 39 CHAPTER II. RUTA EAGA. Culture, Mode of preserving, and uses of the Ruta Baga, sometimes called the Russia, and sometimes the Swedish Turnip. Description of the Plant. 25. It is my intention, as notified in the public papers, to put into print an account of all the experiments, which I have made, and shall make in Farming and in Gardening upon this Island. I, several years ago, long before tyranny showed its present horrid front in England, formed the design of sending out, to be pub- lished in this country, a treatise on the cultivation of the root and green crops, as cattle, sheep, and hog food. This design was suggested by the reading of the following passage in Mr. Chan- cellor Livingston's Essay on Sheep, which I received in 1812. After having stated the most proper means to be employed in order to keep sheep and lambs during the winter months, he adds : " Having brought our flocks through the winter, we come now to " the most critical season, that is, the latter end of March and the " month of April. At this time the ground being bare, the sheep " will refuse to eat their hay, while the scanty picking of grass, " and its purgative quality, will disable them from taking the " nourishment that is necessary to keep them up. If they fall " away their wool will be injured, and the growth of their lambs " will be stopped, and even many of the old sheep will be carried " off by the dysentery. To provide food for this season is very " difficult. Turnips and Cabbages will rot, and bran they will not " eat, after having been fed on it all the winter. Potatoes, how- " ever, and the Swedish Turnip, called Ruta Baga, may be use- " fully applied at this time, and so, I think, might Parsnips and " Carrots. But, as few of us are in the habit of cultivating these " plants to the extent which is necessary for the support of a large " flock, we must seek resources more within our reach." And then the Chancellor proceeds to recommend the leaving the second growth of clover uncut, in order to produce early shoots from 40 RUTA BAG A CULTURE sheltered buds for the sheep to eat until the coming of the natural grass and the general pasturage. 26. I was much surprised at reading this passage ; having observed, when I lived in Pennsylvania, how prodigiously the root crops of every kind flourished and succeeded with only common skill and care ; and, in 181 5, having by that time had many crops of Ruta Baga exceeding thirty tons, or, about one thousand five hundred heaped bushels to the acre, at Botley, I formed the design of sending out to America a treatise on the culture and uses of that root, which, I was perfectly well convinced, could be raised with more ease here than in England, and, that it might be easily preserved during the whole year, if necessary, I had proved in many cases. 27. If Mr. Chancellor Livingston, whose public-spirit is manifested fully in his excellent little work, which he modestly calls an Essay, could see my ewes and lambs, and hogs and cattle, at this " critical season " (I write on the 27th of March), with more Ruta Baga at their command than they have mouths to employ on it ; if he could see me, who am on a poor exhausted piece of land, and who found it covered with weeds and brambles in the month of June last, who found no manure, and who have brought none ; if he could see me overstocked, not with mouths, but with food, owing to a little care in the cultivation of this invaluable root, he would, I am sure, have reason to be convinced, that, if any farmer in the United States is in want of food at this pinching season of the year, the fault is neither in the soil nor in the climate. 28. It is, therefore, of my mode of cultivating this root on this Island that I mean, at present, to treat ; to which matter I shall add, in another Part of my work, an account of my experiments as to the Mangel Wurzel, or Scarcity Root ; though, as will be seen, I deem that root, except in particular cases, of very inferior importance. The parsnip, the carrot, the cabbage, are all ex- cellent in their kind and in their uses ; but, as to these, I have not yet made, upon a scale sufficiently large here, such experi- ments as would warrant me in speaking with any degree of con- fidence. Of these, and other matters, I propose to treat in a future Part, which I shall, probably, publish towards the latter end of this present year. 29. The Ruta Baga is a sort of turnip well known in the State of New York, where, under the name of Russia turnip, it is used for the Table from February to July. But, as it may be more of a stranger in other parts of the country, it seems necessary to give it enough of description to enable every reader to distinguish it from every other sort of turnip. 30. The leaf of every other sort of turnip is of a yellowish green, while the leaf of the Ruta Baga is of a blueish green, like the green of peas, when of nearly their full size, or like the green of a young and thrifty early Yorkshire cabbage. Hence it is, I suppose, that some persons have called it the Cabbage-turnip. But the charac- RUTA BAG A CULTURE teristics the most decidedly distinctive are these : that the outside of the bulb of the Ruta Eaga is of a greenish hue, mixed, towards the top, with a colour bordering on a red ; and, that the inside of the bulb, if the sort be true and pure, is of a deep yellow, nearly as deep as that of gold. Mode of saving and of preserving the Seed. 31. This is rather a nice business, and should be, by no means, executed in a negligent manner. For, on the well attending to this, much of the seed depends : and, it is quite surprizing how great losses are, in the end, frequently sustained by the saving in this part of the business, of an hour's labour or attention. I one year, lost more than half of what would have been an immense crop, by a mere piece of negligence in my bailiff as to the seed ; and I caused a similar loss to a gentleman in Berkshire, who had his seed out of the same parcel that mine was taken from, and who had sent many miles for it, in order to have the best in the world. 32. The Ruta Baga is apt to degenerate, if the seed be not saved with care. We, in England, select the plants to be saved for seed. We examine well to find out those that run least into neck and green. We reject all such as approach at all towards a whitish colour, or which are even of a greenish colour towards the neck> where there ought to be a little reddish cast. 33. Having selected the plants with great care, we take them up out of the place where they have grown, and plant them in a plot distant from every thing of the turnip or cabbage kind which is to bear seed. In this Island, I am now, at this time,> planting mine for seed (27th March), taking all our English precautions. It is probable, that they would do very well, if taken out of a heap to be transplanted, if well selected ; but, lest this should not do well, I have kept my selected plants all the winter in the ground in my garden, well covered with corn-stalks and leaves from the trees ; and, indeed, this is so very little a matter to do, that it would be monstrous to suppose, that any farmer would neglect it on account of the labour and trouble ; especially when we consider, that the seed of two or three turnips is more than sufficient to sozv an acre of land. I, on one occasion, planted twenty turnips for seed, and the produce, besides what the little birds took as their share for having kept down the Caterpillars, was twenty-two and a half pounds of clean seed. 34. The sun is so ardent and the weather so fair here, compared with the drippy and chilly climate of England, while the birds here never touch this sort of seed, that a small plot of ground would, if well managed, produce a great quantity of seed. Whether it would degenerate is a matter that I have not yet ascertained ; but which I am about to ascertain this year. 42 RUT A BAG A CULTURE 35. That all these precautions of selecting the plants and trans- planting them are necessary, I know by experience. I, on one occasion, had sown all my own seed, and the plants had been carried off by the fly, of which I shall have to speak presently. I sent to a person who had raised some seed, which I afterwards found to have come from turnips, left promiscuously to go to seed in a part of a field where they had been sown. The conse- quence was, that a good third part of my crop had no bulbs : but consisted of a sort of rape, all leaves, and stalks growing very- high. While even the rest of the crop bore no resemblance, either in point of size or of quality, to turnips, in the same field, from seed saved in a proper manner, though this latter was sown at a later period. 36. As to the preserving of the seed, it is an invariable rule applicable to all seeds, that seed, kept in the pod to the very time of sowing, will vegetate more quickly and more vigorously than seed which has been some time threshed out. But, turnip seed will do very well, if threshed out as soon as ripe, and kept in a dry place, and not too much exposed to the air. A bag, hung up in a dry room, is the depository that I use. But, before being threshed out, the seed should be quite ripe, and, if cut off, or pulled up, which latter is the best way, before the pods are quite dead, the whole should be suffered to lie in the sun till the pods are perfectly dead, in order that the seed may imbibe its full nourishment, and come to complete perfection ; otherwise the seed will wither, much of it will not grow at all, and that which does grow will produce plants inferior to those proceeding from well-ripened seed. Time of Sowing. 37. Our time of sowing in England is from the first to the twentieth of June, though some persons sow in May, which is still better. This was one of the matters of the most deep interest with me, when I came to Hyde Park. I could not begin before the month of June ; for I had no ground ready. But, then, I began with great care, on the second of June, sowing, in small plots, once every week, till the 30th of July. In every case the seed took well and the plants grew well ; but, having looked at the growth of the plots first sown, and calculated upon the probable advancement of them, I fixed upon the 26th of June for the sowing of my principal crop . 38. I was particularly anxious to know, whether this country were cursed with the Turnip Fly, which is so destructive in England. It is a little insect about the size of a bed flea, and jumps away from all approaches exactly like that insect. It abounds sometimes, in quantities, so great as to eat up all the young plants, on hundreds and thousands of acres, in a single 43 RUT J BAG A CULTURE day. It makes its attack when the plants are in the seed-leaf : and, it is so very generally prevalent, that it is always an even chance, at least, that every field that is sown will be thus wholly destroyed. There is no remedy but that of ploughing and sowing again ; and this is frequently repeated three times, and even then there is no crop. Volumes upon volumes have been written on the means of preventing, or mitigating, this calamity ; but nothing effectual has ever been discovered ; and, at last, the only means of insuring a crop of Ruta Baga in England, is, to raise the plants in small plots, sown at many different times, in the same manner as cabbages are sown, and, like cabbages, transplant them : of which mode of culture I shall speak by and by. It is very singular, that a field sown one day. wholly escapes, while a field sown the next day, is wholly destroyed. Nay, a part of the same field, sown in the morning, will sometimes escape, while the part, sown in the afternoon, will be destroyed ; and, sometimes the afternoon sowing is the part that is spared. To find a remedy for this evil has posed all the heads of all the naturalists and chemists of England. As an evil, the smut in wheat ; the wiieworm ; the grubs above-ground and underground ; the caterpillars, green and black ; the slug, red, black, and grey : though each a great tormentor, are nothing. Against all these there is some remedy, though expensive and plaguing ; or, at any rate, their ravages are comparatively slow, and their causes are known. But, the Turnip Fly is the English farmer's evil genius. To discover a remedy for, or the cause of, this plague, has been the object of inquiries, experiments, analyses, innumerable. Premium upon piemium offered, has only produced pretended remedies, which have led to disappointment and mortification ; and, I have no hesitation to say, that, if any man could find out a real remedy, and could communicate the means of cure, while he kept the nature of the means a secret, he would be much richer than he who should dis- cover the longitude ; for about fifty thousand farmers would very cheerfully pay him ten guineas a year each. 39. The reader will easily judge, then, of my anxiety to know, whether this mortal enemy of the farmer existed in Long Island. This was the first question which I put to every one of my neigh- bours, and I augured good from their not appearing to understand what I meant. However, as my little plots of turnips came up successively, I watched them as our farmers do their fields in England. To my infinite satisfaction, I found that my alarms had been groundless. This circumstance, besides others that I have to mention by and by, gives to the stock-farmer in America so great an advantage over the farmer in England, or in any part of the middle and northern parts of Europe, that it is truly wonder- ful that the culture of this root has not, long ago, become general in this country. 40. The time of sowing, then, may be, as circumstances may require, from the 25th of June, to about the 10th of jfidy, as the 44 RUT A BAG A CULTURE result of my experiments will now show. The plants sown during the first fifteen days of June grew well, and attained great size and weight ; but, though they did not actually go off to seed, they were very little short of so doing. They rose into large and long necks, and sent out sprouts from the upper part of the bulb ; and, then, the bulb itself (which is the thing sought after) swelled no more. The substance of the bulb became hard and stringy ; and the turnips, upon the whole, were smaller and of greatly inferior quality, compared with those which were sown at the proper time. 41. The turnips sown between the 15th and 26th of June, had all these appearances and quality, only in a less degree. But, those which were sown on the 26th of June, were perfect in shape, size, and quality ; and, though I have grown them larger in England, it was not done without more manure upon half an acre than I scratched together to put upon seven acres at Hyde Park ; but of this I shall speak more particularly when I come to the quantity of crop. 42. The sowings which were made after the 26th of June, and before the 10th of July, did very well ; and, one particular sowing on the 9th of July, on 12 rods, or perches, of ground, sixteen and a half feet to the rod, yielded 62 bushels, leaves and roots cut off, which is after the rate of 992 bushels to an acre. But this sowing was on ground extremely well prepared and sufficiently manured with ashes from burnt earth : a mode of raising manure of which I shall fully treat in a future chapter. 43. Though this crop was so large, sown on the 9th of July, I would by no means recommend any farmer, who can sow sooner, to defer the business to that time ; for, I am of opinion, with the old folk in the West of England, that God is almost always on the side of early farmers. Besides, one delay too often produces another delay ; and he who puts off to the 9th may put off to the 19th. 44. The crops, in small plots, which I sowed after the 9th of July to the 30th of that month, grew very well ; but they regularly succeeded each other in diminution of size ; and, which is a great matter, the cold weather overtook them before they were ripe : and ripeness is full as necessary in the case of roots as in the case of apples or of peaches. Quality and Preparation of the Seed. 45. As a fine, rich, loose garden mould, of great depth, and having a porous stratum under it, is best for every thing that vegetates, except plants that live best in water, so it is best for the Ruta Baga. But, I know of no soil in the United States, in which this root may not be cultivated with the greatest facility. A pure sand, or a very stiff clay, would not do well, certainly ; but I have E 45 RUTA BAG A CULTURE never seen any of either in America. The soil that I cultivate is poor almost proverbially ; but, what it really is, is this : it is a light loam, approaching towards the sandy. It is of a brownish colour about eight inches deep ; then becomes more of a red for about another eight inches ; and then comes a mixture of yellowish sand and of pebbles, which continues down to the depth of many feet. 46. So much for the nature of the land. As to its state, it was that of as complete poverty as can well be imagined . My main crop of Ruta Baga was sown upon two different pieces. One, of about three acres, had borne, in 1816, some Indian corn stalks, together with immense quantities of brambles, grass, and weeds, of all descriptions. The other, of about four acres, had, when I took to it, rye growing on it ; but, this rye was so poor, that my neighbour assured me, that it could produce nothing, and he advised me to let the cattle and sheep take it for their trouble of walking over the ground, which advice I readily followed ; but, when he heard me say, that I intended to sow Russia turnips on the same ground, he very kindly told me his opinion of the matter, which was, that I should certainly throw my labour wholly away. 47. With these two pieces of ground I went to work early in June. I ploughed them very shallow, thinking to drag the grassy clods up with the harrow, to put them in heaps and burn them, in which case I would (barring the fly /), have pledged my life for a crop of Ruta Baga. It adversely happened to rain, when my clods should have been burnt, and the furrows were so solidly fixed down by the rain, that I could not tear them up with the harrow ; and, besides, my time of sowing came on apace. Thus situated, and having no faith in what I was told about the dangers of deep ploughing, I fixed four oxen to a strong plough, and turned up soil that had not seen the sun for many, many long years. Another soaking rain came very soon after, and went, at once, to the bottom of my ploughing, instead of being carried away in- stantly by evaporation. I then harrowed the ground down level, in order to keep it moist as long as I could ; for the sun now began to be the thing most dreaded. 48. In the meanwhile I was preparing my manure. There was nothing of the kind visible upon the place. But, I had the good luck to follow a person, who appears not to have known much of the use of brooms. By means of sweeping and raking and scratch- ing in and round the house, the barn, the stables, the hen-roost, and the court and yard, I got together about four hundred bushels of not very bad turnip manure. This was not quite 60 bushels to an acre for my seven acres ; or, three gallons to every square rod. 49. However, though I made use of these beggarly means, I would not be understood to recommend the use of such means to others. On the contrary, I should have preferred good and clean land, and plenty of manure ; but of this I shall speak again, when I have given an account of the manner of sowing and transplanting. 46 RUTA BAG A CULTURE Manner of Sowing. 50. Thus fitted out with land and manure, I set to the work of sowing, which was performed, with the help of two ploughs and two pair of oxen, on the 25th, 26th, and 27th of June. The ploughmen put the ground up into little ridges having two furrows on each side of the ridge ; so that every ridge consisted of four furrows, or turnings over of the plough ; and the tops of the ridges were shout four feet from each other ; and, as the ploughing was performed to a great depth, there was, of course, a very deep gutter between every two ridges. 51. I took care to have the manure placed so as to be under the middle of each ridge ; that is to say, just beneath where my seed was to come. I had but a very small quantity of seed as well as of manure. This seed I had, however, brought from home, where it was raised by a neighbour, on whom I could rely, and I had no faith in any other. So that I was compelled to bestow it on the ridges with a very parsimonious hand ; not having, I believe, more than four pounds to sow on the seven acres. It was sown principally in this manner ; a man went along by the side of each ridge, and put down two or three seeds in places at about ten inches from each other, just drawing a little earth over, and pressing it on the seed, in order to make it vegetate quickly before the earth became too dry. This is always a good thing to be done, and especially in dry weather, and under a hot sun. Seeds are very small things ; and though, when we see them covered over with earth, we conclude that the earth must touch them closely, we should remember, that a very small cavity is sufficient to keep them untouched nearly all round, in which case, under a hot sun, and near the surface, they are sure to perish, or, at least, to lie long, and until rain come, before they start. 52. I remember a remarkable instance of this in saving some turnips to transplant at Botley. The whole of a piece of ground was sown broad-cast. My gardener had been told to sow in beds, that we might go in to weed the plants ; and, having forgotten this till after sowing, he clapped down his line, and divided the plot into beds by treading very hard a little path at the distance of every four feet. The weather was very dry and the wind very keen. It continued so for three weeks ; and, at the end of that time, we had scarcely a turnip in the beds, where the ground had been left raked over ; but, in the paths we had an abundance, which grew to be very fine, and which, when transplanted, made part of a field which bore thirty-three tons to the acre, and which, as a whole field, was the finest I ever saw in my life. 53. I cannot help endeavouring to press this fact upon the reader. Squeezing down the earth makes it touch the seed in ail RUT A BAG A CULTURE its parts, and then it will soon vegetate. It is for this reason, that barley and oat fields should be rolled, if the weather be dry ; and, indeed, that all seeds should be pressed down, if the state of the earth will admit of it. 54. This mode of sowing is neither tedious nor expensive. Two men sowed the whole of my seven acres in the three days, which, when we consider the value of the crop, and the saving in ■the after- culture, is really not worth mentioning. I do not think, that any sowing by drill is so good, or, in the end, so cheap as this. Drills miss very often in the sowings of such small seeds. How- ever, the thing may be done by hand in a less precise manner. One man would have sown the seven acres in a day, by just scattering the seeds along on the top of the ridge, where they might have been buried with the rake, and pressed down by a spade or shovel or some other flat instrument. A slight roller to take two ridges at once, the horse walking in the gutter between, is what I used to make use of when I sowed on ridges ; and, who can want such a roller in America, as long as he has an axe and an auger in his house ? Indeed, this whole matter is such a trifle, when compared with the importance of the object, that it is not to be believed, that any man will think it worth the smallest notice as counted amongst the means of obtaining that object. 55. Broad cast sowing will, however, probably, be, in most cases, preferred ; and, this mode of sowing is pretty well under- stood from general experience. What is required here, is, that the ground be well ploughed, finely harrowed, and the seeds thinly and evenly sown over it, to the amount of about two pounds of seed to an acre ! but, then, if the weather be dry, the seed should, by all means be rolled down. When I have spoken of the after -culture, I shall compare the two methods of sowing, the ridge and the broad-cast, in order that the reader may be the better able to say, which of the two is entitled to the preference. After-culture. 56. In relating what I did in this respect, I shall take it for .granted, that the reader will understand me as describing what I think ought to be done. 57. When my ridges were laid up, and my seed was sown, my neighbours thought, that there was an end of the process ; for, they all said, that, if the seed ever came up, being upon those high ridges, the plants never cculd live under the scorching of the sun. I knew that this was an erroneous notion ; but I had not much confidence in the powers of the soil, it being so evidently poor, and my supply of manure so scanty. 58. The plants, however, made their appearance with great regularity ; no fly came to annoy them. The moment they were 48 RUT A BAG A CULTURE fairly up, we went with a very small hoe, and took all but one in each ten or eleven or twelve inches, and thus left them singly placed. This is a great point ; for they begin to rob one another at a very early age, and, if left two or three weeks to rob each other,, before they are set out singly, the crop will be diminished one- half. To set the plants out in this way was a very easy and quickly -performed business ; but, it is a business to be left to no one but a careful man. Boys can never safely be trusted with the deciding, at discretion, whether you shall have a large crop or a small one. 59. But now, something else began to appear as well as turnip- plants ; for, all the long grass and weeds having dropped their seeds the summer before, and, probably, for many summers, they now came forth to demand their share of that nourishment, produced by the fermentation, the dews, and particularly the sun, which shines on all alike. I never saw a fiftieth part so many weeds in my life upon a like space of ground. Their little seed leaves, of various hues, formed a perfect mat on the ground. And now it was, that my wide ridges, which had appeared to my neighbours to be so very singular and so unnecessary, were absolutely necessary. First we went with a hoe, and hoed the tops of the ridges, about six inches wide. There were all the plants, then, clear and clean at once, with an expense of about half a day's work to an acre. Then we came, in our Botley fashion, with a single horse-plough, took a furrow from the side of one ridge going up the field, a furrow from the other ridge coming down, then another furrow from the same side of the first ridge going up, and another from the same side of the other ridge coming down. In the taking away of the last two furrov/s, we went within three inches of the turnip-plants. Thus there was a ridge over the original gutter. Then we turned these furrows back again to the turnips. And, having gone, in this manner, over the whole piece, there it was with not a weed alive in it. All killed by the sun, and the field as clean and as fine as any garden that ever was seen. 60. Those who know the effect of tillage between growing plants , and especially if the earth be moved deep (and, indeed, what American does not know what such effect is, seeing that, without it, there would be no Indian Corn ?) ; those that reflect on this effect, may guess at the effect on my Ruta Baga plants, which soon gave me, by their appearance, a decided proof, that Tull's principles are always true, in whatever soil or climate applied. 61. It was now a very beautiful thing to see a regular, unbroken line of fine, fresh-looking plants upon the tops of those wide ridges, which had been thought to be so very whimsical and un- necessary. But, why have the ridges so very wide ? This question was not new to me, who had to answer it a thousand times in England. It is because you cannot plough deep and clean in a narrower space than four feet ; and, it is the deep and 49 RU