\r-''- ^' CAPTJIN JAMES COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN, IN THE RESOLUTION, UNBERTAKEN IN THE YEARS 1776-7-8-9 AND 1780, Accompanied by CAPTAIN CLERKE, IN THE DISCOVERY. r VOYAGES ^— ' OF DISCOVERIES ROUND THE WORLD Successively undertaken by THE HON. COMMODOkE BYRON, in 1764; CAPTAINS WALLIS AND CARTERET, IN ITCG ; ANi) CAPTAIN COOK, IN THE' YEARS 1768 To 17b9 INCLUSIVE. COMPREHENDING AUTHENTIC AND INTERESTING ACCOUNTS OF COUNTRIES A'EFER BEFORE EXPLORED. WITH THE LONGITUDE, LATITUDE, RELATIVE SITUATIONS, Suit, ClimatCy Natural Productions, CUSTOMS AND MANNERS OF THE INHABITANTS, S)C. Ss'C. ILLUSTRATED WITH EWGRAVISGS. ■ , -, ,,, - ■ - -\ The whole carefully selected from JHE JOURNALS OF THE RESPECTIVE COMMANDERS By ROBERT WILSON. IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. III. ■ ■ -M. a=ssmsssBBS=sssssssssss LONDON: PRINTXD AND PUBLISHED BY JAMES CUNDEE, ^VV-LANE, PATER.VOSTER-ROW. 1806. LIEUTENANT COOK's riRST VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, CHAP. I. Particulars of Lieutenant Cook, Joseph Bants, and Dr. Solan- der — Cause and Preparations for the Voyage — Passage to Ma- deira — Unkind Reception at Rio de Janeiro — Proceed to the Entrance of the Streight of La Maire — Terra del Fuego — Va- rious Transactions — Discoveries — Descriptions, &c. iVlERIT, it is said, often descends to the grave un- known, but that it sometimes bursts forth from obscu- rity, is sufficiently prov^ed by our present navigator, whose nautical skill and enterprising spirit were his only introductions to the world. James Cook was born at Marston, in Cleveland, a village near Great Ayton, Yorkshire, October 27, 172S. He was of humble parentage, and when about two years old, his fathertook him, and the rest of his family, to Great Ayton, where the elder Mr. Cook was appoint- ed to superintend a considerable farm ; iir which emplov» menthe was assisted by his son, during his tender years. At the ageo( 13, he was placed under the tuition of Mr, PuUen, a school-master at Ayton, who taught him arith- metic and book-keeping. When about 17 years old, he NO. 33, A 2 LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE, was put apprentice to William Sanderson, a grocer and fiaberdasher, at Snailh. However, upon some trifling disagreement with his master, he obtained his discharge, after a year and a half, and was afterwards bound ap- prentice to Messrs. Walker and Whilby, about 10 miles from Snaith, for three years, which he faithfully served. His first voyage was on board the ship Freelove, of about 430 tons, and chiefly employed in the coal trade from >Jewcasile to London. In 17 18 his master ordered him home to assist in fitting and rigging for sea a fine new ship called the Three Brothers, of 600 tons. In this vessel our navigator made two or three coal voy- ages. The coal trade has been the grand nursery of many of our brave heroes,- particularly Collingwood, Kotheram, &c. and was the only naval academy from which Cook derived his professional knowledge ; who, when the term of his apprenticeship had expired, en- tered on board a ship employed in the Bahic trade, and performed several voyages. In 1752, his old master promoted him to be mate of one of his ships called the Friendship, in which capacity he acquitted himself with 80 much credit, that, it is ^aid, he was offered the place of captain, which he modestly declined. When hosti- lities commenced between Great Britain and France, in 1735, Mr. Cook adopted the resolution of entering as a volunteer in the royal navy, and accordingly went on board the Eagle of 60 guns, where, by his diligence and attention, he attracted the notice of Captain, afterwards Sir Hu^h Pailiser, who gave him every encouragement. Having evinced much sagacily and intrepidity, he was made master of the Garland in 1739. Notwithstanding the disadvantages he laboured under for want ot a per- fect education, his natural abilities made ample compen- LIEWTENANT COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. 5 *alIon ; by apjjiication and perseverance he supplied many deficiencies and received a lieutenant's commission April 1, 1760; afier which he daily advanced in the ca- reer of glory. In September, 1162, he assisted in the re-capture of Newfoundland, and soon after married a Miss Batts, at Barking in Essex. It is said that he was godfather to the young lady, and that he declared at that lime his wish for their fature union. He most tenderly loved her from her infancy, nor did she prove unworthy of his affection. On the conclusion of the war in 1763, Lieut. Cook accompanied Capt. Greaves, the then gover- nor of Newfoundland, to survey the small islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, and in the following year he went out with Sir Hugh Palli^'cr, who had been ap- pointed governor of Labradoreand Newfoundland, and prosecuted his surveys as before. The considerable judgnie!.4 which he evinced in Vnh employment, ren- dered him in the opinion of the best judges the only qjalified person for undertaking the expedition, re- solved upon in the latter part of the year 1766, by the Royal Society j who thouglit it would be proper to send persons into some part of the South Sea to observe a tran- sit of the planet Venus over tliC sun's di^k, which, accord- ing to astronomical calculation, would happen in the year 17 69; and that the islands Called Marquesas deMendoza, or those of Rotterdam or Amsterdam, were the proper* e>t places then known for making such observation. In consequence of this resolution, it was recom- mended to his majesty, in a memorial from the Society, dated February 1768, that he would be pleased to or- der such an observation to be made; upon which his majesty signified to the Lords Commissioners of the Ad- miralty his pleasure that a ship should be provided to A 2 4 IIEVTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE, carry such observers as the Society should think fit to ihs South Seas; and in the beginning of April following, the Society received a letter from the Secretary of the Admiralty, informing thera that a bark of 370 tons had= been taken up for that purpose. This vessel was called the Endeavour, and the command of her j:;iven to Lieu- tenant James Cook, then renowned for his abilitic» in astronomy and navigation, who was soon after, by the Royal Society, appointed, with Mr. Charles Green^ a gentleman who had long been assistant to Dr. Bradley, at t!ie Royal Observatory at Greenwich, to observe the transit. While this vessel was getting ready for her expedi- tion, Captain Wallis returned ; and it having been re- commended to him by Lord Morton, when he went out to iix on a proper place for this astronomical observation, he, by letter, dated on board the Dolphin, the 18th of of May, 1768, the day before he landed at Hastings, mentioned Port Royal harbour, in an island which he had discovered, then called George's Island, and since Otaheile ; the Royal Society, therefore, by letter, dated the beginning of June, in answer to an application from the Admiralty to be informed whither they would have their observers sent, made choice of that place. The Endeavour had been built for the coal trade, and a vessel of that construction was preferred for many rea- sons, particularly because she was what the sailors call a good sea-boat, was more roomy, would take and lie on the ground belter, and might be navigated by fewer men than other vessels of the same burden. Her com- plement of officers and men was, exclusive of Lieu- tenant Cook, the commander, and two lieutenants under him, a master and a boatswain, with each two tIEUTENANT COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. males, a surgeon, and a carpenter, with each one mate a gunner, a cook, a clerk and steward, two quarter^ masters, an armourer, a sail-maker, three midshipmen, forty-one able seamen, twelve marines, and nine ser- vants, in all eighty-four persons, besides the commander ; she was victualled for eighteen months, and took on board ten carriage and twelve swivel guns, with good store of ammuniiion and other necessaries. The En- deavour also, after the astronomical observation should be made, was ordered to prosecute the design of making discoveries in the South Seas. On board this vessel embarked Joseph Banks, E-^q. a gentleman possessed of considerable landed property in Lincolnsliire.- He received the education of a scho- lar rather to qualify him for the enjoyments than the la- bours of life ; yet an ardent desire to know more of Na- ture than could be learnt from books, determined him, at a very early age, to forego what are generally thought to be the principal advantages of a liberal fortune, and to apply his revenue not in procuring the pleasures of leisure and ease, but in the pursuit of his favorite study, through a series of fatigue and danger, which in such circumstances have very seldom been voluntarily incur- red, except to gratify the restless desires of avarice or ambition. Upon his leaving the University of Oxford, in the year 1763, he crossed the Atlantic, and visiied the coasts of Newfoundland and Labradore. The dan- ger, difficulty, and inconvenience that attend long voy- ages are very different in idea and ex()erience; !Vlr, Banks however returned undi"?couraged, from his first expedition ; and wlieu he found that the Endeavour was equipping for a voyage to the South Seas, in order to observe the transit of Venus, and afterwards attempt AS 6 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGB. further discoveries, he determined to erabark in the ex- pedition, that he might enrich his native country with a tribute of knowledge from those which have been hi- therto unknown, and not without hope of leaving among, the rude and uncultivated nations that he might disco- ver, something that would render life of more value, and enrich them perhaps in a certain degree with the know- ledge, or at kast with the produciions of Europe. As he was determined to spare no expence in the execu- tion of his plan, he engaged Dr. Solander to accompany him in his voyage. This gentleman, by birth a Swede, was educated under the celebrated Linnaeus, from whom he brought letters of recommendation into England, and his merit, being soon known, he obtained an appoint- ment in the British Museum, a public institution, which was then just established ; such a companion Mr. Banks considered as an acquisition of no small importance, and to his great satisfaction the event abundantly proved that he was not mistaken. He also took with him tvva draftsmen, one to delineate views and figures, the other to paint such objects of natural history as might offer ; togeiher with a secretary and four servants, two of whom were negroes. The Endeavour sailed from Deptford, July 30, 176S, and anchored in Plymouth, August 13, and, on the 26lh, the wind becoming fair, proceeded to sea. On the 21st, they saw several of the birds which the sailors call Mother Car)''s Chickens, and which they sup- pose to be (he forerunners of a storm ; and on the next day, they had a hard gale, which brought them under their courses, washed overboard a small boat belonging to (he b; atswain, and drowned three or four dozen ot their joultry, which they regretted slill more. LIEUTENANT COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. 7, On the 2d of September they saw land between Cape Finisterrf; and Cape Ortega), on the coast oF Gallicia, in Spain ; and on the 12th they discovered the islands of Porto Sancho and Madeira ; and the next day they an- chored in Fiinchiale Road, and moored with the stream anchor; but, in the night, the bend of the hawser of the anchor slipped, owing to the negligence of the person who had been employed to make it tast. In the morn- ing the anchor was heaved up into the boat, and carried out to the southward ; but in heaving it again, Mr. Weir, the master's mate, was carried overboard by the buoy- rope, and went to the bottom with the anchor ; the peo- ple in the ship saw the accident, and got the anchor up with all possible expedition ; it was, however, too late, the body came up entangled in the buoy-rope, but it was dead. The island of Madeira has a very beautiful ap- pearance ; the sides of the hills being entirely covered with vines almost as high as the eye can distinguish. The only article of trade Is wine, and the maimer in which It is made is so simple, that It might have been used by Noah, who Is said to have planted the first vineyard after the flood ; the grapes are put into a square wooden vessel, the dimensions of which are pro- portioned to the sizeof the vineyard to which It belongs; the servants then, having taken off their stockings and jackets, get into it, and with their feet and elbows press out as much of the juice as they can ; the stalks are af- terwards collected, and being tied together with a rope, are put under a square piece of wood, which Is pressed down upon them by a lever wiih a stone tied to the end ofit. 9 IIEUTEKANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE, Our navigators saw no wheel-carriages of any sort in the place, which perhaps is not more owing ta the want of ingenuity to invent them, tlian to the want of industry to mend the roads, which, at present, it is impossible (hat any wheel carriage should pass : tlie inhabitants have horses and mules indeed, excellently adapted to such ways; bnt their wine is, notwithstand-^ ing, brought (o town from the vineyards where it is made in vessels of goat-skins, which are carried by men upon their heads. The only imitation of a carriage among these peciple is a board, made somewhat hollow in the middle, to the end of which a pole is tied, by a strap of white leather. One reason, perhaps, why art and in- dustry have done so little for Madeira, is, Nature's hav- inor done so much. The soil is very rich, and there is such a difference of climate between the plains and the hills, that there is scarcely a single object of luxury that grows either in Europe or the Indies, that might not be produced here. The hills produce, almost sponta- neously, walnuts, chesnuts, and apples in great abundance ; and in the town there are many plants which are natives both of the East and West Indies, par- ticularly the banana, the guava, the pine apple or anana, and the mango, which flourish almost without culture. 1 he corn of this country is of a most excellent quality, large grained and very fine, and the island would pro- duce it in great plenty ; yet most of what is consumed by the inhabitants is imported. The mutton, pork, and beef are also very good; the beef in particular, which they took on board here, was universally allowed to be scarcely inferior to their own ; the lean part was very like it, both in colour and grain, though the beasts are much wiialler, but the fat is as while as the fat of mutton. IIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. * The town of Funchtale derives its name from Funch, the Portuguese name for fennel, which grows in great plenty upon the neighbouring rock. It is situated in the bottom o'^ a bay, and though larger than the extent of the island seems to deserve, is very ill-buiit ; the houses of the principal inhabitants are large, those ot the common people are small, the streets are narrow, and wretchedly paved. The churches are loaded with ornaments, among which are many pictures, and images of favourite saints, but the pictures are in general misera- bly painted, and the saints are dressed in laced clothes. Some of the convents are in a better taste, especially that of the Franciscans, which is plain, simple, and neat in the highest degree. The infirmary consists of a long , room, on one side of which are the windows, and an altar for the convenience of administering the sacra- ment to the sick ; the other side is divided into wards, each of which is just big enough to contain a bed, and neatly lined witth gaily tiles ; behind these wards, and parallel to the room in which they stand, there runs a long gallery, with which each ward communicates by a door, so that the sick may be separately supplied with whatever they want without disturbing iheir neigh- bours. In this convent there is also a singular curiosity of another kind ; a small chapel, the whole lining of which, both sidts and ceiling, is composed of human sculls, and thigh-bones ; the thigh-bones are laid across each other, and a scull is placed in each of the four an- gles. Among the sculls one is very remarkable; the upper and the lower jaw% on one side, perleclly and firmly cohere j how the ossification, which unites them, was lormed, it is not perhaps very easy to conceive, but it is certain that the patient must have lived sometime 10 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST TOYAGE. wilhout opening his mouth ; what nourishment he re- ceived was conveyed through a hole which was disco- vered to have been made on the other side, by forcing out some of the (eelh, in doing which the jy w also seems to have been ijijured. The hills are very high ; Pico Ruivo rises 5,U68 (eet, near an English mile, perpendicularly from its base, which is much higher than any land that has been mea- sured in Great Britain. The sides of ihese hills are co- vered with vines to a certain height, above which there are woods of chesnut and pine of immense extent, and above them forests of wild limber of various kinds not known in Europe. The number of inhabitants in this i.^land is supposed to be about 80,000 and the custom* house duties produce a revenue to the King of Portugal, of 20,000l. per year, clear of all expences. Tiie tides at this place now at the full and change ot the moon, north anJ ^oulh ; ihe spring tides rsse seven feet pcpcndicular, in i the neap tides four. The re» freshments to be had here, are water, wine, fruit of se- veral sorts, onions In plenty, and some sweetmeats ; fresh meat and poultry are not to be had without leave from the governor, and the payment of a very high price. Septem.ber 2!, they saw the islands called the Salva- ges, to the north of the Canaries; and on the 23d, they saw the Peak of Teneritfe bearing VV. by S. -jS. The height of this mountain, has been determined to be 13,396 feet, which is but 148 yards less than 3 miles^ reckoning the miles at J 70 yards. Its appearance at sun-set was very striking ; when the sun was below the horizon, and the rest of the island appeared of a deepi black, the mountain still reflected his rays, and glowedi. IIEUTENAN'T COOK-'s FIRST Vp-iAGE. 11 tvlth a warratli of colour which no painting can express. There is no eruption of visible fire from it, but a heat issues from the chinks near the top, too strong to be borne by the hand when it is held near them. On the next day they came into the north east trade wind ; and on the 30th saw Bona Vista, one of the Capede Verd islands. During their course from this to Bona Vista, they saw great numbers of flying fish, which from the cabin window appear beautiful beyond iraagi- nalion, their sides having the colour and brightness of burnished silver ; when they are seen from the deck they do not appear to so much advantage, because tht i backs are of a dark colour. They also took an uncommon shark; and on October 7, Mr. Banks went out in the boat and took what the seamen call a Portuguese man of war. It consisted of a small bladder, about 7 inches long very much resembling the air bladder of fishes, from the bottom of which descended a number of strings of a bright blue and red, some of them three or four feet in length, which upon being touched sling like a nettle, but with much more force. On the top of the bladder is a membrane which is used as a sail, and turned so as to receive the wind which way soever it blows ; this membrane is marked in fine pink coloured veins, and the animal is in every respect an object exquisitely curi- ous and beautiful. On the JOlh he shot the black-toed gull, to which he gave the name of Larus crepidatus; it is remarkable that the dung of this bird is a lively red. On the 25ih, they crossed the line with the usual cere- monies, and in the evening of the 29lh, observed that luminous appearance of the sea which has been so often mentioned by navigators. It appeared to emit flashes of light exactly resembling those of lightning, only 12 LIEUU^^NANT COOk's FIRST VOYACE, not so considerable, but they were so frequent tljal sometimes eight or ten were visible almost at the same moment. Tliey were of opinion that they proceeded from some luminous animal, and upon throwing out the casting net, this opinion was confirmed ; it brought up a species of Medusa, which when it came on board had the appearance of metal violently beaten, and emitted a whitish light ; with these animals were taken some very small crabs, of three different species, each of which gave as much light as a glow worm. As several articles of their slock and provisions now began to fall short, the captain determined to put into Rio de Janeiro. On the 8lh of November, at day break, they saw the coast ot Brazil ; and on the 12th a remarkable hill near Santo Esperito, then Cape St. Tho- mas, and then an island just without Cape Frio, and which being high, with a hollow in the middle has the appearance of two islands when seen at a distance. They now stood along the shore for Rio de Janeiro, and at nine the next morning made sail for the harbour. Mr. Hicks, the first Lieutenant was sent before in the pinnace, up to the city, to acquaint the governor, that they put in there to procure water and refreshments ; and to desire the assistance of a pilot. The pinnace came back without him, having on board a Portuguese officer, bat no pilot. The people in the boat said that Mr. Hicks was detained by the Viceroy till Captain Cook went on shore. Soon after a ten-oared boat, full of soldiers, came up and kept rowing round the ship, without exchanging a word j in less than a quarter of an hour, another boat came on board, with several of the Viceroy's officers, who asked, whence they came; what was their cargo j the number of men and guns on LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. ]3 hoard; llie object of their voyage, and several other questions which they directly and truly answered ; they (hen said, as a kind of apology for detaining tiie Lieutenant, and putting an officer on board llieir pin- nace, that it was tlie invariable custom of ihe place, to deta'n the first officer who came on shore from any ship on her arrival, til! a boat from the viceroy had visited her, and to suffer no boat to go either from or to a ship, while she lay there witlwut having a soldier on board. They said that the Captain might go on shore when he pleased ; but wished that every other person might re- main on board till the paper which (hey would draw up had been delivered (o tl>e viceroy, promising that, im- mediately upon their return, the lieutenant should be sent on board. This promise having been performed, on (he next morning Captain Cook went on shore, and obtained leave of the viceroy to purchase provisions and refresh- ments for th.e ship, provided he would employ one of their own people as a factor. The captain judging, from his exlreme caution, that he suspected they were come to trade, took some pains to convince him of the contrary. He (old him that they were bound to the" soa(h ward, by the order of his Bri(annic Majesty, to observe a transit of the planet Venus over the Sun, an astronomical phasnomenon of great importance to navigation. Of the transit of Venus, however, he conld form no oiher conception, than that i( was (he pas^^ino- the North S(ar (hrough the South Pole; for the^e are the very words of his interpreter, who \\-d< a Sv\'cde^ and spoke Engli^h very well. The captain did not think it necessary to ask permission for 'he gentlemen (o come on shore during (he day, or tliat when he was on yo. 34. II Ji LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE, sbore himself, he m!;rhi be at liber(y> taking for granted that nothing was intended to ihe contrary ; but in this be was mistaken. As soon as lie took leave of hU ex- cellency, he found an officer who had orders to attend liim wherever he went ; of this he desired an explanation, and was told that it was meant as a compliment: he earnestly desired to be excused from act epiing such an honour; but the good viceroy would by no means suffer it to be dispensed with. With this officer, therefore, the captain returned on board, about twelve o'clock, where he was impatiently expected by Mr. Banks and "Dr. Solander. Their disappointment at receiving his report may easily be conceived ; and it was slill in- creased by an account, that it had been resolved, not only to prevent thfir residing on shore, and going up the country, but even tlieir leaving the ship; orders having been given, that no person, except the capiiiin, and such common sailors as were required to be upon duly, should le permitted to land. In the evening, however, Mr. Bar ks and Dr. Solander dressed them- selves, and aitc'inpled to goon shore, in order to make a visit to the viceroy ; but they were s!r)pped by the gua'^d boat which had come oil wiiii thrii pin ace, and vvhff h kf-p hovciir.g round the sliip all ihe while diey laN h'-re, tor ih/.l pwrpost- ; ihe . thcci < n boartJ at. -\iiei murh exposiulalion to no f irpose, li.ey \^ t-re ol)h;jed to iiiuin on boaid, Ca i-iin (Jo.ik iit-ii v\'rt an siiore jiimsi.df, but fa;, " 1 hat ih<; le .r»clions under tiEUTENAKT cock's FIRST VOYAGE. 15 ■■which he had laid them, were in obedience lo the king or Portugal's commands, and tlierefore indispensible.'* Capiain Crok now drew up a memorial, and Mr. Banks another, which they sent on shore. These me- morials were both answered, but by no means to tiieir satisraclion ; they therefore repiieu : in consequence cf which, several oiher papers were interchanged between them and the viceroy, but still without effect. However, as the captain thought some degree of violence on ihe part of the viceroy, to enforce these restrictions, ne- cessary lojuslify his acquiescence with them to the Ad- miralty, he gave orders to his lieutenant, when he sent him with their last reply, hot to suffer a guard lo be put into his boat. When the officer on board the guard- boat found that Mr. Hicks was determined to obev his orders, he did not proceed to force, but allended him to the landing-place, and reported the matter to the vice- roy. Upon this hfs excellency refused to receive (he memorial, and ordered Mr. Hicks to return to the ship; when he came back to the boat, he found thai a guard had been put on board in his absence, but he absolutely refused to return till the soldier was removed ; the uln- cer then proceeded to enforce the viceroy's orders ; he seized all the boat's crew, and sent tliem under an arm- ed force to prison, putting Mr. Hicks at the same time into one of their own boats, and sending him imder a guard back to the ship. As soon as Mr. Hicks had re- ported these particulars, Captain Cook wrote again lo the vicerr-y, demanding his boats and crew, and in this letter inclosed the memorial which he had refused to re- ceive from Mr. Hicks; these papers he sent by a petty officer, that he might wave the dispute about a guard, B 2 }6 LILUTENANT COOk's >IRST VOYAGE^ and, having delivered his letter, he was told that an an- swer woLilu be setit the next day. In the interim it began to blow very hard in sudden gusts from the south, and their long boat coming on board just at this tinrje with four pipes of rum, tlie rope which was taken hold of by the people on board, unfor- tunately broke, and the boat, which had come to the ship before the wind, went adrift to windward of her^ with a snr.al! skiff of Mr. Banks' that was fastened to her slern. This was a great misfortune, as the pinnace being detained on shore, they had no boat on board but a four oar'd yawl : the yawl, however, was immediately man- ned and sent to her assistance; but, notwithstanding the efforts of the people in both boats, they were soon out of sight. After waiting some hours in the utmost anxiety, they gave them over for lost, but about three o'clock the next morning, had the satisfaction to see all the people come on board in the yawl. From them they learned, that the long-boat having filled with water, they had brought her to a grappling and left htt; and that, having fallen in with the reef of rocks in their return to the ship, they had been obliged to cut Mr. Banks's little boat adrift. As the loss of their long boat, which they l>ad now too much reason to apprehend, would have been an unspeakable disadvantage to them, considering the nature of their expedition^ the captain sent another letter to the viceroy, acquainting him with their misfor- tune, and requesting the assistance of a boat from the shore tor the recovery of his own ; he also renewed bis demand that the pinnace and her crew should be no longer detained ; after some delay, his excellency lh( u«jht fit to comply both with his request and demand ; ai^d the same day they happily recovered both the long LIEUTENANT COOk's FfUST VOYAGE. 17 boat and the skiff, with the rum, but every thing else thai was on board was lost. A friar in the town having requested the assistance of their surgeon. Dr. Solander easily got adrrritlance in that character, on the 23th, and received many marks of civility from the people, On the next day, Mr. Banks found means to elude the vigilance of the people in the guafd-IjOBt, and got on shore ; he did not, however, go into llie town, for the principal objects of his curiosity were- (o he found in the field ; to him also the people be- haved with great civility, many of them invited him to thfir houses, and he bought a porker and some other things of ii:em !l[)r the ship's company. Dec.], having got their water and olher necessa- ries on board, the captain sent to the viceroy for a pilot to carry them to sea, who came off to them ; but the wind preventing them from gelling out, Ihey took on board a plentiful supply of iVcsh beef, yams, and greens for the ship's company. On the 5th, it being a dead calm, they weighed an- chor and towed down the bay; but, to their great astonishment, when they got abreast of Santa Cruz, the principal fortiiicaiion, two shot were fired at them. The^ immediately t ast anchor, and sent to the fort to enquire the reason of what had happened; their people brought ^^ord, tiat the commajidant had received no order (rum the viceroy lo let them pass ; and that, with- out such an order, no vessel was ever suffered to go be- low ihe forL It was noA', therefore, become necessary that they should send to the viceroy, lo enquire why the necessary order had not oeen given, as he had notice of their depariufe, The messenger soon returned with an B 3 18 LIEUTENANT OOOk^ flRST VOYAGS. account, lliat the order had been written some days, but hy an unaccountable neg'.ij^ence not sfent* We did not get under sal! till the 7lh, and, when thejr bad passed the fort, the pilot desired to be discharged. As soon as he was dismissed, they were left by their guard boal, which had liovered about ihena from the first hour of their being in this place to the last. It is remarkable, that, during the last three or four days of their staying in this harbour, ihe air was loaded tvilh butterflies ; they were chiefly of one sort, but in such numbers that thousands were in view in every direction, and the greatest part of them above therr mast-head. The town of Janeiro stands on a plain close to the shore, on the west side of the bay, at the foot of several high mountains which rise behind it. It is neither ill designed nor ill built : the houses, in general, are of stone, and two stories high ; every house having, after the manner of the Portugese, a little balcony before its windows, and a lattice of wood before the balcony. \t h supplied with water from the neighbouring hills, by an aqueduct, which is raised upon two stories of arches, and is said in some places to be at a great height from the ground, from which the water is conveyed by pipes into a fountain in the great square that exactly fronts the viceroy's palace. At this fountain great num- bers of people are continually waiting for their turn to draw water ; and the soldiers, who are posted at the governor's door, find it very difficult to maintain any regularity among them. The water at this fountain, however, is very bad ; but there is water of a better quality in some other parts of the town. The churches are very fine, and there is more reli- gious parade in this place than in any of the Popish IIEUTENANT COOKS FIRST VOYAGE, 19- countries in Europe; there b a procession of some pa- rish every day, with various insignia, al! splendid and costly in the highest df'gree; they beg money, and say prayt-rs in great form, at the corner of every street. While the Endeavour lay here, one of the churches was rebuilding ; and to delrav the expence, the parish to which it belonged, had leave to beg in procession through the whole city once a week, bv which very con- siderable sums were collecitd. At this ceremony, which was jjerformed by n^ght, all the boys ofa certain age were obliged to assist, tiie sons of genllemc-n r;ot be- ing excust-d. Each of these boys was dressed in a black cassock, with a short red cloak, hanging about as low as the waist, and carried in his hand a pole about six or seven feet long, at the end of which was tied a lantern; the number of lanterns was generally above two hun- dred, and tliC light they gave was so great, that the peo- ple who saw it from the cabbin windows thought tb& town had been on fire. The inhabitants, however, may pay their devotions to the shrine of any saiiU in the calendar, without wail- ing till there is a procession ; for before almost Gvery house there is a little cupboard, furnished with a o-Jaas window, in which one of these tutelary powers is wait- ing to be gracious ; and to prevent his being out of mind, by being out of sight, a lamp is kept constantly burning before the window of his tabernacle in the night. The people indeed are by no means remiss in their devotions, for before these saints they pray and sing hymns with such vehemence, that in the night they were distinctly heard on board the ship, thouo-h she lay at the distance of at least half a mile from the. town. 20 LIEUTENANT COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. The government here, as lo !(< foim, is mixed ; it h notwllhs anding very dt'spohc It con^isls ot ihe vice- roy, the governor of the town, and a council, the num- berof which our navigators C't humility aad submission ; and it is said, that if any of them should neglect to take off h s hat upon meeting an olfic er, he would be immedi- ately knocked down. These haughty severities render LliLUTENANT COOr's FIRST VOYAGE. 21 (he-people extremely civil to a stranger who ha-? the appearance of a gemlenian. But the suborcirnation of Ihe officers them.selves to the viceroy is enforced with circumstances equally mortifying, tor ihey are obliged to attend in iiis hall tiiree tinges every day to ask his commands i the answer consianliy is ** there is nothing new." The country, at a smatl distance round the town, \s beautiful in the highest dej^r.^e ; the wildest spots being varied wiih a greater luxuriance of flowers, boih a'^ to number and beauty, than the best gardens in England. Upon the trees and bushes sat an almost endless, variety of bird*:, especially small ones, many of them covered with the most elegant plumage ; among which were the humming bird. Of insects loo there was a great variety, and some of them very beautiful ; but they were much more nimble than those of Europe, especially the but- terflies, most of which flew near the tops of trees, and were therefore very diflicult to be caught, except when the sea breeze blew fresh, which kept them nearer to the ground. The greater part of the land is wholly uncultivated, and very little care and labour seem to have been be- stowed upon the rest ; there arc indeed little patches or gardens, in which many kinds of European garden stuflf are produced, particularly cabbages, peas, beans, kidney beans, turnips, and white radishes, but all much inferior to our own ; water melons and pine apples are also pro- duced in these spots ; the country also produces musk,, melons, oranges, limes, lemons, sweet lemons, citron?, plantains, bananas, mangos, roamane apples, acajou or cashou apples and nuts ; jamboira of two kinds, one of which bears a small black fruit ; cocoa-nuts, palm 22 IIEUTENANT COOK S FIRST VOYAGE. nuts of two kinds, one long, the other round j and palhi berries. As to manufactures, our navigators peither saw nor heard of any except that of cotton hammocks, in vviiith people are carried about here, as in sedr.n chair< ; and the^e are principally, if not wliolly, fabricated by the Indians. The riches of the place consist chiefly in the mines^ of which it is almost impos-ibi'j for any man to get a sight except those who are employed there ; and in- deed the strongest curiosity would scarcely induce any man to attempt it, for whosoever is found upon the road to them, if he cannot give undeniable evidence of his having business tliere, is injmediately hanged up upon the next tree. Much gold is certainly brought from the>e mines, and no less than forty thousand negroes are annually imported, to dig them, which is so pernicious lo- the human frame, that thousands of ihem perish. Precious stones are also Ibund here in such plenty, that a cerJain quantity, only is allowed to be collected in a )ear; to coll ct this quantity, a number of people are sent inlo the country where ihey are found, and when it is got t')gether, which sometimes happens in a month, sometimes in less and sometimes in more, they return y and after that, whoever is found in these precious dis- tricts, on any pretence, before the next year, is imme- diately put to death. The jewels found here, are di- amonds, topazes of several kinds, and amethysts. On the 9lh they ob>erved the sea to be covered with broad streaks ol" a )ellowish colour, seveial of ihem a mile long, and three or tour hundred yards wide ; some of the water thus coloured was taken up, and found to be full of innumerable atoms pointed at the eqd^ of/a It^UTENANT cook's FIRST VOYAGR. 23 yp]Iovvi<;h colour, and none moie iban a quarierofa line, or the fnnit'lh par: <;• an inch long. On (he I'lh they hook' d a shark, and vNfiilelhey were plaving it under the cabbin wJndovN, it (Ire'A out, and drew ni a^ain several nmes v\ha! appeared lobe its slonnach ; it pr<»ved in be a leniale, and upon being opened six young ones were faken out of it ; five of them v\eie auve, and swain briskly in a tub of water, but the sixth af)pt-ared to have been dead some lime. January '.i, 17^9, l;eing in lati(ude 47" 17' iJ- ai>ti 'on- giiude 610 2y' 43'' VV. tiiey were all Io(.kfng out for Pep\s' Island, and- for ^^orrie time an appearance was seen in 'he enst which -o mac h resemb.ed land, that they bore awa> for it ; and ii was more than two hours and an ha't belore they were conv inced- that it was no- thing but wha'. sa'lors call a bog bai.k. 1 he peojile now beginning to complain of the cold, each f)f ihem received a Magellanic jacket, and-a pair Oi trowse>J, and <;heer-waters, seals, whale'c, and poipoises; and on the I 1th, having passed Faikldiid\s islan.ls, they (ii-«covered the coa^t of Terra del Fucgo, at (he distance ofahcju- t<)ur leatjuvs, extend- intj m the VV. tob. E. bv S. Iht-v h.i'l hen- five and thirty lath<*m, lne groui^d saii, >».ail dale siones. As the) rat grd along ih*.- shore to (he S E ai the distance of (woor i;.ree Uague-c, they peutived smoke in seve- ral ■'i..tt'-, u h (h whn made b'> tin n-.ives, prob bl) as a signal, U/r ihey d-d not coniu iie it aticr ihev had pass- ed bs . Having continued fo ranre ih^ coast on the 1 4-lh, the) entered the bireiy;}ii ol Le Mane ; hi; t e tide turning a-ainst tnem drove them c ut w.di grtal VK)- 24- LIfVTfNANT COOKS FIRST VOYAG^/ lence, and ra^^ed such a sea off Cape St. Diego, that the waves had exaclly the same appearance as ihey would have liad if they had broke over a ledge of rocks ; and when the ship was in this torrent, she fre- quently pitched, so that the bowsprit was under wa- ter. About noon they got under the land between Cape St. Diego and Cape St. Vincent, where lliey in- tended to have anchored ; but finding the ground every ■where hard and rocky, and shallowing from thirty to twelve fathoms. Captain Cook sent the master to exa- mine a liule cove which lav at a short distance to (he eastward of Cape St. Vincent. When he returned, he reported, that there was anchorage in four fathom, and a good bottom, close to the eastward of the first bluff point, on the east of Cape St. Vincent, at the very en- trance of the cove, to vvhieii the captain gave the name of Vincent's Bay ; before this anchoring-ground, liow- ever. lay several rocky ledges, that were covered with sea- weed ; and it was reported, that there was not less than eight and nine fathom over all of them. It will probably be thought strange, that where weeds, which grow at the bottom, apjiear above the surfare, there should be this depth ot water; but the weeds which are upon rocky ground in these counines, and which always di^linguisil it from sand and ooze, are of an enormous size. The leaves are four feet long, ar.d some of the stalks, though not t!ii( ker than a n^an's thumb, above one hundred and tweivy; Mr. Banks and Dr. Solantier examined some of them, over wfiich the) <-ounaed, and and had fourteen fathom, which is eigh{\-four 'eel; and, a.> they made a ver^ acute argiti with the boilom, they were thought lo be at least oni lalf l«>rp( r ; the foot stalks NNcre swelled into an air vessel, and Mr. J tlEUTENANT COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 25 Banks and Dr. Solander called this plant Fu^us giganteur. Upon the report of the master Captain Cook stood in with the ship ; but not truUing implicit'y to his intelli- gence, he continued to sound, and found but four fa- thom upon the first ledge that he went over; conclud- ing, therefore, that he could not anchor here without risk, he determined to seek some port in the Slreight, where he might get on board such Vv'ood and water as they wanted. Mr. Banks and Dr. Sulander, however, being very desirous to go on shore, he sent a boat with Ihem and their people, while he kept plying as near as possible with the ship. Having been on shore four hours, they returned about nine in the evening, with about an hundred different plants and flowers, all of them wholly unknown to the botanists of Europe.. They found the country about the bay to be in general flat, thebot'om of it in particular was a plain, covered vtiih grass, which might easily have been made into a large quantity of hay ; they found also abundance of good wood and water, and fowl in great plenty. Among other things, of which Nature has been liberal in this place, is Winter's bark, which may easily be known by its broad leaf, shaped like the laurel, of a light green colour without, and inclining to blue within ; the bark is easily stripped with a bone or a stick, and its virtues are well known ; here is also plenty of wild celery and scurvy-grass. The tree-; are chiefly of one kind, a species of the birch ; the stem is from thirty to forty feet long, and from two to three feet in diameter, so that in a case of necessity they might possibly supply a ship with topmasts; they are a h^^ht while wood, bear a small leaf, and cleave very slraigni. Cranberries were aUo found here in ^reat plenty, both white und no, 3i, c tS LIEUTENANT COOIt's FIRST VOYAGE, •red. The persons who landed saw none of ihe inhabi- tants, but fell in wilh two of their deserted huts, one in a thick wood, and the other cbse by the beach. About three in the morring of'die 1 5th, they anchor- ed in twelve fathom and an half, upon coial rr.cks, be- fore a small cove, which the)' ti ok lor Port Maurice, at the distance of about half a mile from the shore. Two of the natives carae down to the beach, expecting them to land ; but this sport afforded so litile shelter, that ihe captain at length determined not to examitje it ; he therefore got uncier sail again about ten o'clock, and the savages retired into the woods , At two oVIock they anchored in the bay ofGood Suc- cess ; and after dinner the captain, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went On shcire, to look for a watering place, and speak to the Indians. They land- ed on, the larboard side of the bay near some rocks, which made smooth water and good landing; thiiiy or iorty of the Indians soon made their appearance at the end of the sand-beach on the other side of the bay, but seeing their number, which was ten or twelve, they re- treated. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander then proceeded about one hundred yards before the captain, upon which the Indians returned, and having advanced some paces towards them, sat down ; as soon as they came up the Indians rose, and each of them having a small stick in his hand threw it awa}, in a direction both from them- selves and the strangers, which was considered as the renunciation of weapons in tokens of peace ; they then walked bridcly towards theT companions, who had halted at aboui Hfiy yards behnd them, and beckoned the gentlemen to foJlftw, which they did. They were rtceived with many uncouth signs of friendship; and. riEUTlNANT cook's FIRST VOYAGI. 27 in return, ihey distributed among them some beads and ribbon?, which had been brought on shore for that pur- pose, and with which they were greatly delighted. A mutual cofidence and good- will being thus established, the captain joined, and the conversation, such as it was, became general; three of them accompanied them back* to the ship. When they came on board, one of them, whom they took to be a priest, performed ceremonies "which were supposed to be exorcisms. When he was introduced into a new part of the ship, or when any thing that he had not seen before caught his attention, he shouted wilh all his force for some minute.<, without directing his voice to any of the party. They eat some bread and some beef, but not apparently with much pleasure, though such part of what was giveit them as they did not eat they took away with them; they would not swallow a drop either of wine or spirits : they put the glass to their lips, but, having last- ed the liquor, they returned it, with strong expressions of disgust. They went from one part of the ship to another, and looked at the vast variety of new objects that every moment presented themselves, without any expression either of wonder or pleasure, for the vocifera- tion of the exorcist seemed to be neither. After having been on board about two hours, they expressed a desire to go ashore. A boat was immediately ordered, and Mr. Banks thought fit to accompany them ; he landed tiiem in safety, and conducted them to their companions, among whom he remarked the same vacant indifference, as in those who had been on board ; for as on one side there appeared no eagerness to relate, so on the other there seemed to be no curiosity to hear, how they had been received, or what they had seen. In about half an c 2 2S LIEUTENANT COOK^S FIR^T VOYACET. hour, Mr. Banks returned to the ship, and the Indians retired from the shore. Earl^ in tlie morning of the 16lh, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with their attendants and servants, and two seamen to assist in carrying the baggage, accompanied by Mr. Monkhouse the surgeon, and Mr. Green the astronomer, set out from the ship, with a view to pene- trate as far as tliey could into the country, and return at night. The hills, when viewed at a distance, seemed to be partly a wood, partly a plain, and above them a bare rock. Soon after they had reached what (hey had taken for a plain ; to their gre^l disappointment, they found it a swamp, covered with low bushes of bircii, about three feet high, interwoven with each other, and so stubborn that they could not be bent out of the way ; it was therefore necessary to lift the leg over them, whick - at every step was buried, ancle deep, in the soil. The weather, which had hitherto been very tine, became gloomy and cold ; with sudden blasts of a most piercing wind, accompanied with snow. They pushed forward, however, in good spirits, notwithstanding their fatigue j but when they had got about two thirds over this woody swamp, Mr. Buchan, one of Mr. Banks's draughtsmen, was unhappily seized with a fit. Th\^ made it necessary for the whole company to halt, and as it was impossi- ble that he should go any farther, a fire was kindled, and those who were most fatigued were left beliind to take care of him. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Green, and Mr. Monkhouse, went on, and in a short time reached the summit. Here their expectations were abundantly gratified, having found a great variety of plants. The cold was now become more severe, and tt»e snow-blasts more frequent ; the day also was very far LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 2f Spent, that it wai? found impossible to get back to the ship, before the next morning ; to pass the night upon such a mountain, in such a chmate, was not only conifort- Icss, but dread'al j it was impossible, however, to be avoided, and ihey were to provide for it as well as thef could. It was now near eight o'clock in the evening, but «lill good d?.|-!ighf, and they set forward for the nearest \'a!ley. Dr. Solander, who had more than once crossed the nnountains which divide Sweden from Norway, well knew that extreme cold, especially when joined with fatigue, produces a torpor and sleepiness that are almo.«t irresislible; he therefore conjured the company to keep . moving, whatever pain it might cost them, and what- ever relief they might be promised by an inclination to rest ; " Whoever sils down,'* says he, " will sleep, and whoever sleeps will wake no more." However, Dr. Solander himself was the first who found the incli- nation, and insisted upon being suffered to lie down. Mr Bunks intreated and remonstrated in vain; down he lay upon the ground, though it was covered with snow; and it was with great difficulty that his friend kept him from sleeping. Richmond also, one of the black ser- vants, began to linger, having suffered from the cold in the same manner as the Doctor. Mr. Banks, therefore, sent five of the tompany, among whom wa^^ Mr. Buchan, forward lo get a fire ready at the first convenient place they could find ; and himself, with four others, remained with the Doctor and Richmond, whom partly by per- suasion and intreat), and partly by force, they brought on; but when they had got through the greatest part of the birch and ^wal^)p, ihey boih declared they could go no farther. When Richmond was told, that if he did c J 30 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. not go on he would in a short time be frozen to death ; he answered, " that he desired nothing but to lie down and die;" the doctor did not so explicitly renounce his life; he said he was willing to go on, but that he must first take some sleep, though he had before told the company that to sleep was to perish. Mr. Banks and the rest found it impossible to carry them, and there be- ing no remedy they were both suffered to sit down, be- ing partly supported by the bushes, and in a few mi- nutes they fell into a profound sleep ; soon after some of the people who had been sent forward returned, with the welcome news that a fire was kindled about a quar- ter of a mile farther on the way. Mr. Banks then en- deavoured to wake Dr. Solander, and happily succeed- ed; but, though he had not slept five minutes, he had almost lost the use of his limbs, and the muscles were so shrunk that his shoes fell from his feet ; he consented to go forward with such assistance as could be given him, but no attempts to relieve jx)or Richmond were success- ful. It being found impossible to make him stir, Mr. Banks left his other black servant and a seaman, who seemed to have suffered lea=!t by the cold, to look after him; promising, that as soon as two others should be sufficiently warmed, they should be relieved. Mr. Banks, with much difficulty, at length got the doctor to the fire ; and soon after sent two of the people who had been refreshed, in hopes that with the assistance of those •who had been left behind, they would be able to bring Richmond, even though it should still be found impos- sible to "wake him. In about iialf an hour, however, they had the mortification to see those two men return alone ; they said, that they had been all round the place which they had been directed, but could neither find 2 LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. 51 Richmond nor those who had been left with him ; and that though they had shouted many times, no voice had repUcd. Another fall of snow now came on, and conti- nued incessantly for two hours, so that all hope of seeing them again, at least alive, were given up ; but about twelve o'clock, to the great joy of those at the fire, a shouting was heard at some distance. Mr. Banks, wilh four more, immediately went out, and found the seameii with just strength enough left to walk ; he was sent im- mediately to the fire>and Mr. Banks proceeded in search of the other two, whom he soon after found. Rich- mond was upon his legs, but not able to put one before tlie other; his companion was lying upon the ground, as insensible as a stone. All hands were now called irom the fire, and an attempt was made to carry them to it; but the night was so extremely dark, and the snow so very deep, that under these additional disadvantages, they found it very difficult to make way through the bushes and the bog for themselves, all of them getting many falls in" the attenipt. They were, therelore, re- duced to the sad necessity of leaving llie unhappy wretches to their fate ; having first made them a bed of boughs from the trees, and spread a covering of the same kind over them to a considerable heiglit. Having now been exposed to the cold and the snow near an hour and an half, some of tl-e rest began to lose their sensibility. They at length arrived at the fire, and passed the night in a situation, which, how- ever, dreadful in itself, was rendered more afflicting by the remembrance of what was past, and the uncer.ainly of what was to come. Ol twelve, the number that set out together in health and spir.-ts, two were supposed to be already dead j a third was so ill, that it was very 23 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. doubtful whether he would be able to go forward in llie mornincr ; and a foiirlh, Mr. Buclian, was in dar>ger of a retarn of hi-? fits, by fresh fatigue, after so uncomfortable a night ; they were distant from the ship a long day's journey; they were wholly destitute of provisions, ex- cept a vulture, whic h they happened to shoot while they were out, and which; if equally divided, would not afford each of them half a meal. Wijen the n^orning dawned, they saw nothing round them, as far as the eye could reach, but snow, which seemed to lie as thick upon the trees as upon the ground ; and the bla'^ts returned ^o frequently, and with such vio- lence, that they found it impossible for them to set out. However, about six o'cl-.'ck in the morning, they con- ceived some hope of deliverance by discovering the place ofthe sun through the clouds, which were become thinner, and began to break away. Their first care was to see whether the poor wretches whom they had been obliged to leave among the bushes were yet alive : three of ihe company were dispatched for thai purpose, and very soon afterwards returned with the melancholy 'news that iht- y were dead. Abuul eight o\lock a small regular breeze sprung up, which, with the prevailing influence ofthe sun, at length cleared ihe air; and they soon after, with great joy, saw the snow fall in flakes from the trees, a certain sign of an approaching thaw. They v^ ere now pres«^ed by the calls ol hunger ; and before they set forward, it was una^imou^lv agreed ilul they stiould eai their vulture ; the bird was ace »rdingl) skinned, and, it being thought best to divide it, before it wa> fii lo^ie eaten, it waN cut into ten portions, and every man cooked his own as he thought fit. Afier this repast, v\hich furnished each of LI'EUTENANT COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. s>^' thera with about three mouthfuls, they prepared to set out. After a walk oi about three honrs, they were very agreeably surprised to find themselves upon the beach, and much nearer f the shiptl.an they Iiad any reason to expect. When they came on board, they congratulated each other upon their safety, with a joy that no man can feel who has not l^een exposed to equal danger. On the 20ih. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander ventured on another excursion. After an uncomfortable walk they arrived at a town, situated on a dry knoll, or small hill, covered with wood, and consisted of about twelve or fourteen hovels, of the most rude and inartificial struc- ture that can be imagined. They were nothing more than a few poles set up so as to incline towards each ©Iher, and meet at the top, forming a kind of cone, like some of our bee hives ; on the weather side they were covered with a few boughs, and a little grass ; and on the lee side about one eighth of the circle was left open, both for a door and a fire-place. Furniture they had none; a little glass, which lay round the inside of the hovel, served both for chairs and beds. Tiie inha- bitants were a small tribe, not more than fifty in nun.ber, of both sexes, and of every age. Their colour re-^embles that of the rust of iron mixed with oil ; and they have long black hair ; the men are large, but clumsily built ; their stature is froai five feet eight to five feet ten : the women are much less, few of them being more than fiv^e feet high. Their whole apparel consists of the skin cf a guanicoe, or seal, which is thrown over their shoulders, exactly in the state in which it came from the animal's back; a piece of the same skin, which is drawn over their feel, and gathered about the ancles like a purse, and a small flap, which is worn by the women as a sue* 34 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYACI. cedaneum for a fig-leaf. The men wear their cloak open, the women lie it about their waist with a ihong. Their face> are painted in various forms ; ihe region of the eye was in general while, and the restsof the face adorn- ed with horizontal streaks of red and black ; yet scarcely any two were exactly alike. The only things that they found among them, in which there was the least appearance of neatness or In* genuity, were their weapons, which consisted of a bow and arrows. The bows was not inelegantly made, and the arrows were the neatest that they bad ever seen ; Ihey were of wood, polished to the highest degree, and the point, which was of glass or flint, and barbed, was formed and filled with wonderful dexterity. They also saw some pieces of glass and fiint among them un- wrought, besides rings, buttons, cloth, and canvas, with other European commodities ; they must therefore some times travel to the northward, for it is many years since any ship has been so far south as this part of Terra del Fuego. They observed also, that Ihey shewed no sur- prise at their fire-arm-^, with ihe use of which they ap- peared lo be we!! acquainted. Almost all writers who have mentioned the island of Terra del Fuego, describe it as destitute of vvor>d, and covered with snow. In the winter it may possibly be covered with snow, and those who saw ii a( that season mi^ht pe.liaj)s be easily deceived, by its appear.mce, in- to an opinion that it was destitute of wood. From the time thai our navigators first saw it, trees were plainly to be distinguished with their glasses , and as they tame nearer, thou;;h here and there tiiey discovered patches of snow, the sides of the h^]ls and the sea-coast appeared to be covered vviih a beautiful verdure. Tiie hills arc I LltUTENANT cook's F^RST VOYAGP- 35 lofty, bat not mountainous, thoocrh the summits oflhem are quite naked. The soil in the vallies is rich, and of a fonsiderab^e deplh, and at the foot ot almost every hill tliere is a brook, the water of which has a reddish hut.*, but it i'? by no means ill tasted. Between Straight Le M^ire and Cape Horn they found a current setiing, generally very strong to the N. E. when they were in with liie siiofe ; but lost it when ihey were at the distance of filieen or twenty leagues. On the 26th, they look their departure from Cape Horn. As the weather was frequenly calm, Mr. Banks went out in a small btjat to shoot birds, among which were some albalro'^ses and sheerwaters. The albatrosses they skinned, and having soaked them in salt wa^er till the morning, they parboiled them; then thr( w^ ing away the liquor, stewed them in a very little fiesh water till they were tender, and had them served up with savoury sauce ; thus dressed, the dish was universally commended, and they eat of it very heartily even wiiere there was fresh pork upon (he table. Notwithstanding the doubling of Cape Horn is so much dreaded, that, in the general opinion, ii is more eligible to pass through the Streight of Magellan, they were not once brought under their close-reefe.i top-sails after they left the Streiglit of Le Maire. They found neither the current nor the «torms which the running so iar to the southward is supposed necessary »o avoid. Soon after they becran to have strong gales and hf^avy seas, with irregular intervals of calm and fine weather. On April 4, about ten o'clock in the morning, Mr. Banks's-servant, Peier Bri roe, discovered land, bearing south, at the distance of about three or fcur leagues. 36 - ifEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE; The caplain immediately hauled up for it, and found it to be an island of an oval form, with a lagoon in the middle, which occupied ninc^i the larger part of it, manv places very low and narrow, particularly on the south sidf, where it consists principally of a beach or reefot rocks; it has the same appearance also in three places on the north side ; so that the firm land being dis- joined, the whole looks l.ke many islands covered with wood. On the west end of the island is a large tree, or clump of tree«, thai in appearance resembles a tower; and about the middle are two cocoa-nut trees, which rise above all the rest, and, as they came near to the island, appeared like a flag. They approached it on the north side, and though they came within a mile, they . found no bottom with 130t'alhom of line, nor did there appear to be any anchorage. The whole is covered with trees of different verdure, but they could distinguish none, even with their glasses, except cocoa-nuts and palm-nuts. They saw several of the natives upon the shore, and counted four and twenty. They appeared to be (all, and to have heads rem:ukably large ; perhaps they had something wound round them, which they could not distinguish ; Ihey were of a copper colour, and had long black hair. Eleven of them walked along th« beach a-breast of the ship, with poles or pikes in their hands which reached twice as high as themselves; while they walked on the beach Ihey seemed to be naked; but soon after they retired, vxhich they did as soon as the ship had passed the inland, I hey covered themselves with somethiny; thai made lliem appear of a light colour. 1 heir liabilalions were under sotriet lumps of pahn«nut trees, which ai a distance aj)peared like high ground. To this &pot, which lies in latitude IS' LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 37 47 'S. and longitude 139° 28' W. Ihey gave ihe name of Lagoon Island. About one o'clock they made sail to the westward, and about half an hour after tiiree they saw land again to the N. W. They got up with it at sun-set, and it proved (o be a low woody island, of a circular form, and not much above a mile in compass. They discovered no inhabi- tAuls, nor could they distinguish any cocoa-nut trees, though they were within half a mile of the shore. The land, however, was covered with verdure of many hues. They called it Thrumb-Cap. At this place it was low water; and it was observed at Lagoon island, that it was either high water, or that the sea neither ebbed nor flowed ; it was supposed thereft-re, that a S. by E. or S. moon makes high water. On the 5th ihey discovered land to the westward. It proved to be a low island, of much greater extent than either of those that ihey had seen before, being about ten or twelve leagues in compass. They knew this island to be inhabited, by smoke, which they saw in dif- ferent pans ot it, and they gave it the name of Bow Island. On the next day, about noon, tliey saw land again to the westward, and came up with it about three. It ap- peared to be two islands, or rather groups of islands, ex- tending from N. W. by N. to S. E. by S. about nine leagues. To these inlands they gave the name of Tiie Groups. On the 7lh, at day break, they discovered another island to the northward, which they judged to be about lour miles in circamference. The land lay very low, and there was a piece of water in the middle of it; there seemed to be some wood upon it, and it looked NO. 3k D 58 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. green and pleasant; but they saw neither cocoa trees nor inhabitants; it abounded, however, with birds, and they therefore gave it the name of Bird Island. On the next day they saw land to the northward, and about sun set carae a-breast of it, at about the distance of two leagues. Ii appeared to be a double range of low ■woody islands joined together by reefs, so as to form one island, in the form of an ellipsi-; or oval, with a lake in the middle of it. The small islands and reefs that cir- cumscribe the lake, have the appearaiKe of a chain, and ihey therefore gave it the name of Chain island. On the lOih, having had a tempestuous night with thunder and rain, the weather was hazy till about nine o'clock in the morning, when it cleared up, and they saw the island to which Captain Wallis, vvlio first dis- covered it, gave the name of Osnaburgh island, called by the natives Mailea. LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 39 CHJP. IT. Arrival of the Endeavour at Otalielte, called by Captain AVaills, King Geerge the Illd.'s Island — Visit to Tootahah and Toubou- rai Tamaida, two Chiefs — a Wrestling Match — other Amu5e- nieuts and Adventures — Preparations to observe the Transit.— Several Tiicfts — Description of a Burying Place, and a Plac«t f'f Worsliio — Excursions, &c. On the llih they saw land a head, and the next morning it appeared to be very- high and motintainous, extending from W. by S. i S. to W. by N. 5 N. and they knew it to be the same that Captain Wallis had called King's George the Illd/s Island. They were delayed in their approach to it by light airs and calms; but in the morning of the 12lh, about seven, a breeze sprang up, and belore eleven several canoes were seen making towards the ship ; there were but few of them, however, tiiat would come near ; and the people la those that did, could not be persuaded to come on board. In every canoe there were }Oung plantains and branches of a tree, which the Indians call E' Midho ; these were brought as tokens of peace and amity, and the people in one of the canoes handed them up the ship's side, making signals at the same time with great eainestness, which were not immediately understood ; at length they guessed that they wished these symbolss hould be placed in some conspicuous part of the ship ; they, therefore, D 2 40 LIEUTtNANT COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. iramediately stuck them among the rigging, at which they expressed the greatest satisfaciion. They then purcliasecl their cargoes, consisting of cocoa-nuts, and various kinds ofTruif, which were very acceptable. They stood on with an easy sail all niglit, and in the morning of the 13l.h came to an anchor in thirteen fa- thom, in Port Royal Bay, called by the natives Matavai. They were immediately surrounded by the natives in iheir canoes, who gave them cocoa-nuts, fruit resem- bling apples, bread-fruit, and some small fishes, in ex- change for beads and other trifles. They had with them a pig, which they would not part with for any thing but a hatchet, and, therefore they refused to purchase it, be- cause they knew they would never afterwards selJ oiie for less, and they could not afford to buy as many as it was probable they should want at that price. The biead'fruit grows on a tree that i? about the size of a middling oak; its leaves are frequently afoot and an hall long, of an oblong shape, deeply sinuated like those of the fig-tree, which they resemble in consistence and colour, and in the exuding of a white milky juice upon being broken. The fruit is about the size and shape of a child's head, and the surface is reticulated rK)t much unlike a truffle; it is covered with a thin skin, and has a core about as big as the handle of a small kni/e ; the eatable part lies between the skin and the core; it is as white as snow ; and somewhat of the consistence of new bread ; it must be roasted before it is eaten, being first divided into three or four parts; its taste is insipid, uith a slight sweetness somewhat resembling that of the crumb ot wheat^in bread mixed with a Jerusalem ar- tichoke. LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 41 Among others who came offto ihe ship was an elderly man, who>e name was Ov\ha\v, and who was immedi- ately known to Mr. Gore, and several others who had been here with Captain VVaUis; as the captain was in- formed that he had been a very useful man, he look him on board the ship with some others, and was parti- cularly attentive to gratify him. When the ship was properly secured, the captain went on .shore with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, a parly of men under arms, and their friend Ovvhaw. They were received from the boat by some hundreds of the ip.habiiants, whose looks at least gave them welcome, though they were struck with such awe, that the first who approached them crouched so low that he almost crept upon his hands and knees. It is remarkable that he, 'ike the people in the canoes, presented to them the same synibol of peace that is known to have been in use arnong the ancient and mighty nations of the northern liemisphere, the green branch of a tree. They received it V* iii) looks and gestures of kindness and satisfac- tion ; and oljserving that each of them held one in his hand, they imtnediatelv gathered every one a bough, and carried it in their hands in the ^ame manner. They marched\vilh them about half a mile towards the place where the Dolphin had watered, conducted by Owhaw ; they then made a full slop, and having cleared away all the plants that grew uj)on the ground, the principal per- sf>ns ihrevv their green brandies u]K)n the naked spot, and made signs that ll.ey should do the same; they im- mediately showed their readiness to comply, and to give a greater solemnity to the rite, the marines were drawn up, and marching in order, each dropped his bough upon those of the Indians. When they came to the vvalerinj^ D o 42 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. place it was intimated to them by sign?, that they mi^ht occupy that ground, %at it happened not to be fit for their purpose. During their walk, and a circuit through the woods, the English and natives became (juite friend- ly. Their circuit was not less than four or five miles, through groves of trees, which were loaded with cocoa- nuts and bread-fruit, and aflforded the most grateful shade. Under these trees were the habitali()ns of the people, most of them being only a roof without waifs, and the whole scene realized the poetical fables of Arca- dia. They remarked, however, with some regret, that in all their walk they bad seen only two hogs, and not a single fowl. The next morning, before they could leave the ship, several canoes came, most of them from the wes(- ward, and two of them were filled with people, who by their dress and deportment appeared to be of a supe- rior rank ; two of these came on board, and each sin- gled out his friend ; one of them, whose name was Ma- tahah, fixed upon Mr. Banks, and the other upon the captain j this ceremony consisted in taking off great part of their clothes and putting them upon them. In return for this, they presented each of them with a hatchet and some beads. Soon after they made signs /or them to go with them to the places where they lived, pointing to the S. W. and as the captain was desirous of finding a more commodious harbour, and making farther trial of the disposition of the people, he consent- ed. Accordingly he ordered out two boats, and with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and other gentlemen, and their two Indian friends, they embarked for their expedition. After rowing about a league, they made signs that they would go >n shore and gave them to understand that LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 43 this was the place of their residence. Ti)ey accordingly landed, among several hundreds of the naiive;:, who conducted them into a hou>e of much greater length than any they had seen. Here they saw a middle-aged man, whose name was afterwards discovered to beTootahah; mats were immediately spread, and they were desircfd to sit down over against him. Soon after he ordered a cock and hen to be broughi out, which he presented to Mr. Banks and the captain ; they accepted the present, and in a short time each of them received a piece of cloth, perfumed after their manner, by no means disa- greeably, which they took jjreal pains to make them re- mark. The piece presented to Mr. Banks was eleven yards long and two wide; in return for which, he gave a laced silk neckcloth, wliich Ije happened to have on, and a linen pocket handkerchief; Toolahah immediately dres.scd himself in this new finery, with an air of perfect complacency and satisfaction. They were now conducted to several large houses, which, like the others, being all open, except a roof, af- forded no place of retirement ; but the ladies, by fre- quently pointing to the mats on the ground, and some- times sealing themselves, and making them sit down also, convinced them there was no jealou.sy among them. They now took leave of their friendly chief, and di- rected their cour'^e along the shore : when they had walked about a mile, they met, at the head of a great number of people, another chief, whose name was Tou- bourai Taraaide, with whum the) also ratified a treaty of peace. This chief gave them to understand, that if they chose to eat, he had victuals read) for them. They accepted his oflfer, and dined very heartily upon fish. 44i LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. bread-fru i, cocoa-nuls, and plantains, dressed after thelf manner. Their conviviality was now inferriipled by Dr. So- lander having Insf an opera-g^ass in a shagreen case, and Mr. Monkhouse his snutf box. Complaint of the injury was made to the chief; and, to give it weight,- !Mr. Banks siaDed up, and hastily stiuck th-- but end of his firelock upon the ground ; this ariion, and the noise that accompanied it, struck ihe wdjole assembly with a panic, and every oneolthe natives ran out ofthe house with the utmost precipitation, except the chief, three women, and two or thr^'e o(hers, who appeared by their dress to be of a superior rank. The chief, with a mixture of confusion and concern, took Mr. Bai)ks by the hand, and led him to a large quantity of clolii, which lay at the other end of the house ; this he offered to him piece by piece, intimating by signs> thai if that would atone for the wrong whicli. had been done, he might take any part of it, or if he pleased, the whole. xMr. Banks put it by, and gave him to understand, that i)e wanted nothing but what had been dishonestly taken away. Toubourai Tamaide then went hastily out, leaving Mr. Banks with his wile Tomio, who during the whole scene ol terror and con- fusion had kept constantly at his side, expressing her de- sire that he should wait there till his return. Mr. Banks accordingly sat down, aid conversed with her, as well as he could by s'gns. about halfan hour. The chief then came back with the snuffbox and the opera glass in nis hand, and, with a joy in his countenance that was paint- ed with a strength of expression which distinguishes these people from all others, delivered them to the owners. The ease of the opera glass, however, upoa 4 i i LIEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. 45 being opened, was found (o be en^pi)' ; upon ihis dis- covery, his countenance changed in a moment, and catching Mr. Banks again bv tlie hand, he rushed out of the h(;use; without uttering any sound, and led him along the shore, walking'^wiih great rapidity ; when they had got about a mile from the house, a woman met him, and gave him a piece of cloLh, which he hastily took from her, and continued to press forward with it in his liand. Dr. Solander and Mr. Monkhouse had followed them, and they came at length to a house where they were re- ceived bv a woman, to whom he gave the cloth, and inti- mated to the gentlemen that they should give her some beadA They immediately complied ; and the beads and cloth being deposited upon the floor, the woman went out^and in about half an hour came back with the opera glass. The beads were now returned, with an inflexible resolution not to accept them ; and the cloth was, wiih the same pertinacity, forced upon Dr. Solan- der, as a recompence for the injury that had been done him. He couid not avoid accepting the clo;h, but insisted in his turn upon givit'.g a new present of beads to the woman. In the evening, about six o'clock, they returned to the stup. On the lath the captain, accompanied by Mr. Banks, and soa.e of the other gentlemen, went a>hore to fix on a proper spot to erect a ^mall fort for their defence, dur- ing their stay here. ITiving niarked nut the ground that they intended to occupv, a small lent belonging t Mr. Banks was set up, which had been brought on shore lor that purpose ; by this time a great number of the natives iiad gathered about them, who b'jhaved with a deference and respect that at once pleased and surprised them ; they sat down peaceably without the 4»6 LFLUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. ' circle, and looked on, williout giving them any inter- ruption, till they had done, which was upwards ot twa hours. Having appointed thirteen marines and a petty officer to guard the lent, they set out in the woods, and a great number of the natives joined their party. As they were crossing a little river that lay in their way, they saw some ducks, and Mr. Banks, as scon as he had got over, fired at them, and liappened to kill three at oneshot ^ this struck them with the utmost terror, so that most of ihem fell suddenly to the ground, as if they also had been shot at the same discharge ; it was not long, how- ever, before they recovered from their fright, and they continued their route ; but they had not gone far before they were alarmed by the report of two pieces, which wert' fired by the guard at ihe IciU. As they had toa much reason to fear that some mischief had happened^ they hasted back to the teni, which was not distant dbove half a mile, and when they came up they found it en- tirely deserted, except by their own people. It appear- ed that one of the Indians who remained about the tent after they left it, had watched the opportunity, and tak^ ing the centry unawares, had snatched away his mus- quet. Upon this the petty officer, a midshipman, who commanded the party, ordered the marines to fire ; the men, with as little consideration or humanity as the of- ficer, immer.'iately discharged their pieces among the thickest of llic flying crowd, consisting of more than a hundred ; and observing the thief did not fall, pursued him, and shut him. They afterwards learnt, that none of the oihers were either killed or wounded. Owhaw, who had never left tlie captain, got together a few of those who had fled, thougli not v>ilhout some difficulty, and endeavoured to convince the Indians that LfEUTSNANT COOk's FIRST VOY^^GE. 47 if they did no wrong, they should have received no in- jury; tliey went away without any appearance of dis- trust or resentment ; and having struck their tent, (he captain and his friends returned to the ship, but by no means satisfied with the transactions of the day. The next morning, few of the natives were seen upon the beach, and not one of them came off to the ship. This convinced them ihat iheir endeavours to quiet their apprehensions had not been eftlclual ; and ihey remark- ed with particular regret, that they were deserted even by Ovvhaw, wdio had hitherto been so constant in his at- tachment, and so active in renewing the pe.^ce that I, ad been broken. Appearances being thus unfavourable, the captain warped the ^ship nearer to the shore, and moored her in such a manner as to command all the N. E. part of the bay, particularly the place v\hich he had marked out for the building a fort. In the evenintr, however, he went on shore with only a boat's crew, and «(»me of the gentlemen ; the natives gathered about them, but not in the same number as before : thev traf- ficked with them for cocoa-nuts and other fruit, to all appearance as friendly as ever. On the I8lh, as many people as could possibly be spared from the ship, began to erect their fort. While some were employed in throwing up intrcnchments, others were busy in cutting pickets and fascines, which the native-, who soon gathered round them as they had been used to do, were so far from hindering, that many of them voluntarily assisted them. The soil where they constructed their fort was sandy, and this made it neces- sary to strengthen the intrenchments with wood. This day the Indians brought down ^o much bread-fruit and cocoa nuts, that they found it necessary to send away '.It, 4S LItUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. part of them unbought, and to acquaint them, by signs, that they should want no more for two day;? to come. Every thing was purchased this day with beads ; a sin- gle bead, as big a>< a j)ea, being the purchase ot five or six cocoa nuts, and as many of the bread fruit. Mr. Monkhonse, the surgeon, having walked out this evening, reported, that he had seen the body of the man who had been shot at the tents, which he said was wrapped in cloth, and })laced on a kind of bier, support- ed by stakes, under a roof that seemed to have been set, up for the purpose ; that near it were deposited some in- struments of war, and olher things, uhich he would par- ticularly have examined but for the stench of the body, which was intolerable. He said, that he saw also two more sheds of the same kind, in one of which were the bones of a human body that had lain till tbey were quite dry. They discovered afterwards, that this was the way in which they usually disposed of their dead. On the 226, Tootahah gave (hem a specimen of the munc of this country; four persons performed upon flutes, which had only two stop:;, and therefore could not sound more than iour notes, by halftones; they were sounded like our German fiutes, except that the performer, instead of applying it to his mouth, blew in- to it with one nostril, while he slopped the other with his thumb; to these instruments four other persons sung, and kept very good time ; but only one tune was played during the whole concert. On the 24-lh, Mr. Bcinks and Dr. Solander examined tlie country for several miles along the shore to the east- ward ; for about tvvo miles it was flat and fertile; after that the hills stretched quite to the water^s e(]ge, and a little farther ran out into the sea, so that they were LIEl'TESAKT COOK*S FlllST VOVAGE. 49 oblij^ed lo climb over ihem. These hills, which were barren, continued for about three miles more, and then terminated in a large plain, which was full of gooi houses, and people who appeared to live in great affiu- ence. In this place there '.vas a river, which issued from a deep and beauliful valley, and was near 100 yards wide. About a mile beyond this river the coun- try became again barren, the rocks every where pro- jecting into the sea, for which reason they resolved to return, when they were met by Toubotirai Tamaide, and his woman, who expressed much joy at seeing them. The next evening Dr. Solander lent his knife to one of these women, who neglected to return it ; and on the 26th Mr. Banks's also was missing. The latter though not without some reluctance, accused Toubourai Ta- maide of having stolen it; he solemnly and steadily de- nied that he knew any thing of it ; upon which Mr. Banks made him understand, that whoever had taken it, he was determined to have'it returned; upon this reso- lute declaration, one of the nalives who was present produced a rag in which three knives were carefully tied up. One was that which Dr. Solander had lent to the woman, another was a table knife belonging to the captain, and the owner of the third was not known. With these the chief immediately set out, in order to make restitution of them to their owners at the tents. Mr. Banks remained with the women, who expressed great apprehensions that some mischief was designed against their lord. When he came to the tents he restor- ed one of the knives to Dr. Solander, and another to the captain, and then began to search for Mr. Banks's in all the places where he had ever seen it. After some time, NO. 34. K 50 LIEUTENANT COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. one of Mr. Banks's servants, understanding what he was about immediately fetched his ma«;ter's knife, wliich it seems he had laid by the day before, and till now knew riothing of its having been missed. Toubourai Tamaide, upon this demonstration of his innocence, expressed the strongest emotions of mind, both in his looks and ges- tures ; the tears started from his eyes, and he made signs wilh th.e knife, that, if he was ever guilty of such an ac- tion as had been Imputed to him, he would submit to have his throat cut. He then rushed out of the lines, and returned hastily to Mr. Banks, with a countenance that severely reproached him with his suspicions. Mr. Banks soon understood that the knife had been received from his servant, and was scarcely less affected at what bad happened than the chief; he felt himself to be the guilty person, and was very desirous to atone for his fault. The poor Indian, however violent his passions, was a stranger to sullen resentmen-t ; and upon Mr. Banks's spending a little time familiarly with him, and making him a few trifling presents, he forgot (he wrong that had been done him, and was perfectly re- conciled This day six swivel guns were mounted upon the fort^ which struck the natives with dread; some fisher- men, who lived upon the point, removed farther off, apprehending they should fire great guns. On the '27th, Toubourai Tamaide, wilh a friend, and the three women that usually attended him, dined at the fort ; in the evening they took their leave, and set out for the house which Toubourai Tamaide had set up in the skirts of ihe wood ; but in less than a quarter of an hour he returned in great emotion, and hastily seizing Mr. Banks's aro), made signs that he should follow him. LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 51 Mr. Banks immediately complied, and they soon came up to a place where they found the ship's butcher, with a reaping-hook in his hand ; here the chief stopped, and, in a transport of rage which rendered his signs scarcely intelligible, inlimaled that ilie butcher had threatened, or attempted, to cut his wife's throat with the reaping-hook. Mr. Banks then signified to him, that if he could fully explain the offence, the man should be punisiied. Upon this he became more calm, and made Mr. Banks understand that the otiender, having taken a fancy to a stone hatchet which lay in his house, had olTered to purchase it of his wife for a nail ; that she having refused to part with it upon any terras, he had catched it up, and throwing down the nail, threaten- ed to cut her throat if she made any resistance; to prove this charge the hatchet and the nail were pro- duced, and the butcher had little to say in his defence. The captain now took an opportunity, when the chief and his women, with other Indians, were on board the ship, to call up the butcher, and after a recapitulation of the charge and the proof, he gave orders that he should be punished ; the Indians saw him stripped and tied up to the rigging with a fixed attention, waiting in silent suspense for the event; but as soon as the first stroke was given, they interfered with great agitation, earnest- ly intreating that the rest of the punishment might be remitted ; this, however, for many reasons, was refused, and when they found that they could not prevail by their intercession, they gave vent to their pity by their tears. Canoes were continually coming in during all this forenoon, and the tents at the tort were crowded with people of both sexes from different parts of the island. Mr.Mollineux, master of the Endeavour^ went on shi;re. e2 52 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE- As soon as he entered Mr. Banks's lent, he fixed hi* eyes upon Oberea, who was sitting there with great compo<;ijre among the rest, and imniedialely declared her to be the person wlio at that time was supposed to be the queen of the island ; she also at the same time, ac- knowledging him to be one of the strangers v\hom she had .seen before. The attention of all present was now diverted from every other object, and wholly engaged in considering a person who had made so distinguished a figure in the accounts that had been given of this inland by its first discoverers. An offer was made to conduct her to the ship, of whicii she readily accepted, and came on board with two men and several women, who seemed to be ail^ of her family ; Captain Cook received her with such marks of distinction as he thought would gratify her most, and was not sparing of his presents, among which this au- gust personage seemed particularly delighted with a child's doll. After some time spent on board, the cap- tain attended her back to the shore ; and as soon as they landed, she presented them with a hog, and several bunches of pl.-ntains, which she caused to be carried from her canoes up to the fort, in a kind of procession, of which she and himself brought up the rear. In their way to the fort they met Toolahah, who, though not king, appeared to be at this time invested with the sov- reign authority ; beseemed not to be well pleased with the distinction that was shown to the lady, and became so jealous when she produced her doll, that to propitiate him it was thought proper to compliment him with ano- ther. The next day Tomio came running to the tents, with SL mixture of grief and fear in her countenance, and tak- LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. 53 ing Mr. Banks, to whom they applied in every emer- gency and distress, by the arm, intimated that Toubou- rai Tamaide was dying, in consequence of something which the sailors had given him to eat, and that he must instantly go with her to his house. Mi. Bunks set out without delay, and found his Indian friend leaning his head againU a post, in an attitude of the utmost languor and despondency ; the people about him intimated that he had been vomiting, and brought o.l a leaf folded up with great care, which they said contained some of the poison, by tbe deleterious effects of which he was now dying. Mr. Bank^ ha-^tily oj)ened the leaf, and up- on examining its contents found them to be no other than a chew of tobacco, whch the chief had begged of some of our people, and which they had indiscreetly given him ; he therefore directed him to drink plentifully of cocoa.-nut milk, which in a short time put an end to his sickness and apprehensions, and he spent the day at the fort with great cheerfulness and good humour. ^boui noon. May 1, a chief, who liad dined with the captain a few days before, accompanied by some of his women who fed him, came on board; when Ive was sealed, and the dinner upon the tab.'e, the captain helped him to some victual^ ; as he observed that he did not immediately begin his raeal, he pressed him. to eat; but he still continued to sit motionless like a statue, without attemptmg to put a single morsel into his mouth, and would certainly have gone without his din- ner, if one of the servants had not fed him. In the afternoon they set up the observatory, and took the astronomical quadrant, with some other instruments, on shore ; and the next morning the capiain having gone with Mr. Green to fix the quadrant in a situation 34- LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. for us«, to ihelr inexpressible surprise and concern k was not to be found. It had been deposited in the tent which was reserved for the captain's use, where, as he passed the niglit on board, nobody slept ; it had never been taken out of the packing-case, which was eigiiteen inches square, and the whole was of considerable weight; a centinei had been posted the whole night within five yards of the tent door, and none of the other instruments were missing. Mr, Bai.ks, who upon such occasions declined neither labour nor risk, determined to go in search of it into ihe woods, where, if stolen by the natixes, it was most likely t*^* gain some intelligence o( it. He set out, accompanied by a midshipman and Mr. Green, and as he was crossing the river he was met by Toubourai Tamaide, who immediately made the figure of a triangle with three bits of straw upon hi>; hand. By this Mr. Banks knew that the Indians were the thieves ; and thai although they had opened the case, they were not disposed to part with the contents. No time was therefore to be lost, and Mr. Banks made Toubourai Tamaide understand, that he must instantly go with him to the place whitiier the quadrant had been carried; he consented, and they set out together to tiie castvvard. By means of their conductor they at length : met one of his own people, with part of the quadrant in his hand. At this most welcome sight they stopped, and a great number of the Indians immediately came up, »orae of whom pressing rather rudely upon them, Mr. Banks thought it necessary to shew one of hi^ pistols, the sight of which reduced thera instantly to order; as the crowd that gathered round them was every moment ' increasing, he marked out a circle in the grass, and they ranged themielves on the outside of it to the number of LIEUTENANT COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. 55 several hundreds, with areat quietneolute despair, and called the Master, Boba, from his christian name Robert ; Mr. Gore was Toarro ; Dr. Solander, To- rano; and Mr. Banks, Tapane ; Mr. Green, Eteree : Mr. Parkinson, Patini ; Mr. Sporing, Polini ; Petersgill, Petrodero; and in this manner they had now formed names for almost ev^ery man in the ship. On the 12th they had a visit from some ladies whom they had never seen before, and who introduced them- selves with some very singular ceremonies. Mr. Banks was trading in bis boat, at the gate of the fort as usual, in company with Tootahah, who had that morning paid him a visit, and some other of the natives; between nine and ten o'clock, a double canoe came to the land- ing-place, under the awing of which sat a man and two women; the Indians that were about Mr. Banks made signs that he should go out to meet them, which he hasted to do ; but by the time he could get out of the boat, they had advanced within ten yards of him ; they then stopped, and made signs that he should do so too, laying down about a dozen young plaintain trees, and some other small plants; he complied, and the people having made a lane between them, the man who ap* peared to be a servant, brought six of them to Mr. Banks by one of each at a time, passing and repassing six times, and always pronouncing a short sentence when he deliverod them. Tupia, who stood by Mr. 60 L1LJTE^'ANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. Banks, acted as liis master of the ceremonies, and re- ceiving the branches as they were brought, laid them down in the boat. When this was done, another man brought a large bundle of cloth, which having opened, he spread piece by piece upon the ground, in the space between Mr. Banks and his visitors ; there were nine pieces, and having laid three pieces one upon another, the foremost of the women, who seemed to be the prin- cipal, and who was called Oorattooa, stepped upon Ihera, and taking up her garments all round her to the waist, turned about, with great composure and deliber- ation, and with an air of perfect innocence and simpli- city, three times ; when this was done, she dropped the veil, and stepping off the cloth, three more pieces more were laid on, and she repeated the ceremony, then step- ping off as before; the last three were laid on, and the ceremony was repealed in the same manner the third time. Immediately after this the cloth was rolled up, and given to Mr. Banks as a present from the lady, who, with her friend, came up and saluted him. He made such presents to them both, as he thought would be most acceptable, and after having staid about an hour they went away. In the evening the gentlemen at the fort had a visit from Oberea, and her favourite female attendant, whose name was Otheolhea, an agree- able girl, whom they were the more pleased to see, be- cause, having been some days absent, it had been re- ported she was either sick or dead. The next morning Mr. Banks walked into the woods with his gun ; as he was returning back, he met Tou- bourai Tamaide near his occasional dwelling, and stop- ping to spend a little time with him, he suddenly took tlie gun out of Mr. Banks*s hand, cocked it, and, holding LIEUTENANT CeOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. 61 Jt Up in the air, drew the trigger; fortunately for him, it fla'ilied in the pan. Mr. Banics immediately look it from him, not a little surprised how he had acquired sufficient knowledge ofa gun to discharge it, and reprov- ed him with great severity for what he had done, adding threats to his reprool ; the Indian bore all pntiently ; but the moment Mr. Banks crossed the river, he set off with all his family and furniture for his house at Eparre. This being quickly known from tiie Indians at (he fori, and great inconvenience being apprehended from the displeasure of. this man, who upon all occasions had been parlicularly useful, Mr. Banks determined to lorlovv him without delay, and solicit his return ; he set out ihe same evening, accompanied by Mr. Mollincux, and found him sitting in the middle of a large circle of peo- ple, to whom he had probably related what had happen- ed, and his fears of the consequences; he was himself the very picture of grief and dejection, and the same passions were strongly marked in the countenances of all the people that surrounded him. When Mr. Banks and Mr. Moliineux went into the circle, one of the vvp- men expressed her trouble by striking a shark's tooth into her head several times, till it was covered vviih blood. Mr. Banlcs lost no time in putting an end to this universal distress ; he assured the chief, that every thing which had passed should be forgotten, that there was not the least anifnosity remaining on one side, nor anything to be feared on the other. The chief was soon soothed into confidence and complacency, a double canoe was ordered to be got ready, they all returned to- gether to the fort before supper, and as a pledge of per- fect reconcilation, both he and his wife slept all nfght in Mr. Banks's ten4 ; their presence, however, was no NO. 35. F 62 LIEUTENANT COOK S FI-RST VOVAtJE, pilladium ; for, between eleven and twelve o'clock, one of the natives attempted to get into the fort by scal- ing the walls, with a design, no doubt, lo steal whatever lie should happen to find ; he was divcovered by the centniel, who happily did not fire, and he immediately look to flight. In the night between the 13lh and 14th, one of the water casks was stolen from the outside of the fort ; in Che morning there was not an Indian to be seen whv did not know that it was gone ; yet they appeared not to have been trusted, or not to have been worthy of trust; for tbey seemed all oflhem dispo!^ed to give intelligence where it might be found. Mr. Banks traced it to a part of the bay where he was told it had been put into a canoe, but as it was not ol gieat consequence he did not complete the discovery. When he returned, he was told by Toubourai Tamaide, that another cask would be stolen beibre the morning ; how he came by this knowledge it is not easy to imagine ; that he was not a party in the design is certain, for he came with his wife and his family to the place where tlie w ater casks stood, and placing their beds near them, he said he would himself be a pledge for their safety, in despight of the thief; this, however, was pernjitted ; and inaking them understand that a centry would be placed to watch (he casks till the morning, he removed the beds into Mr. Banks's tent. In the night this ;nteliigence ap- peared to be true ; about twelve o'clock the thief came, but discovering that a watch had been set, he wejit away without his booty. Mr. Banks's confidence in T^.ubourai Tamaide had greatly increased since the affair ot the !;ni;c, in con'^e- ^uence of which he was at length exposed lo lempla- LIEUTENANT COOK*^S FIRST VOTAGE. 63 lions which neither his integrity nor his honour was able to resist. They had withstood many allurements;, but were at length ensnared by the fascinating charms of a basket of nails» whicli were much larger than any that had yet been brought into trade, and had, through some degree of criminal negligence, been left in a corner of Mr. Bank^s tent, to which the chief had always free ac.> eess. One of these nails Mr. Banks*s servant happened to see in his possession, upon his having inadvertently thrown back that part of his garment under which it was concealed. Mr. Banks being told of this, and knowing that no such thing had been given him, either as a pre sent or in barler,^ immediately examined the basket, and discovered, that out of seven nails five were missing* He then, though not without great reluctance, charged fcim vk'ilh the fact, wliich he immediate!)- confessed, and however he might sutler, was probably not more hurt than his accuser. A demand was immediately made of restitution ; but this he declined, saying that the nails were at Eparre ; however, Mr. Banks appearing to be much in earnest, and u^ing some threatening sign';, he thought fit to produce one of them. He was then taken to the fort, to receive such judgment as should be given against him by the general voice. After some deliberation, he was t©ld, that if he woukl bring the other four nails to the fort, it should be forgotten. To this condition he agreed,, but he did not fulfil it. In- stead of fetching the nails he removed with his family before night, and took all his furniture with him. A few days after he and his wife Tomio made their appearance at the tent, for the first time since he had been detected in stealing the nails; he seemed to be Wider some discontent and apprehension, yet he did f 2 .€4^ JLIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE.' not think fit to redeem his character by restoring the four which he had sent away. As Mr. B;knks and the other gentlemen treated hira with a coolness and reserve v^ hich did not at all tend to restore bis peace or good- hi^nyouVj his stay was short, and his departure abrupt. Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon, went the next morning in order to effect a reconciliation, by persuading him to bring down the nails, but he could not succeed. On me 27lh, Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr. So- lander, and three others, set out in the pinnace to visit Tootahah, who was now removed from Tettahah to a place called Atahouru, about six miles farther, and as they could not go above halfway thither in the boat, it was almost evening before they arrived ; they found him in his usual slate, sitting under a tree, with a great crowd about him. They made their presents in dire form, which were graciously received; a hog was im- mediately ordered lo be killed and dressed for supper, but as they were less desirous of feasting upon theif journey than of carrying back with them provisions, which would be more welcome at the fort, they pro- cured a reprieve for the hog, and supped upon the fruits of the country. As night now came on, and the place was crowded with many mnre thian the houses and canoes would contain, there being Oberea with ht,r attendants, and many other travellers whom they knew, they began to look out for lodgings. Mr. Banks thought himself fortunate in being offered a place by Oberea in her canoe, and wishing his friends a good night, look hi^ leave. He went lo lest early, according to life cus- tom of the country, and taking off hts clothes, as was his constant practice, the nights being hot, Oberea kind- ly insisted upon taking them into her own custody, foi tIEUTLNANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 65 Otherwise she said they vf ould certainly be stolen. Mr; Banks having such a safecruard, resigned himself to sleep with all imaginable tranquillity; but wakingabout eleven o*clockj and wanting to get up, he searched for hh clothes where- he had seen them deposited by Oberea when he lay down to sleep, and not finding them, im- mediately awakened Oberea, who starting up, and hearing his complaint, ordered lights, and prepared in great haste to recover what he had lost ; Toolahah him- self slept in the next canoe, and being soon alarmed, he came to them> and set out with Oberea in search of the thief; Mr. Banks was not in a condition to go with them, for of his apparel scarce any thing was lefl him but his. breeches ; his coat and his waistcoat, vvilii his pistols, powder hornj and many other things that were in the pockets, were gone. In about half an hour his two noble friends returned, but witiiout success. Mr. Banks thought it best, however, to express neither fear noc suspicion of those about l:im, and giving his musquet (which had been left) to Tupia, with a charge not to suffer it to be stolen, he betook himself again to rest.. As it cannot be supposed that in such a situation his sleep was very sound, he soon after heard music, and saw lights at a distance, on shore ; this was a concert or assembly, which they call a Heiva, a common name for every public exliibition. Mr. Banks rose, and made the best of his way towards it ; he was soon led by" the lights and the sound to the hut where Captain Cook lay, with theolhergentlemen of their party, to whom he began to tell his melancholy story. They gave him such comfort as the unfortunate generally give to each other, by as- suring hira that they were fellow .^ufterers ; the captain showed him that he was without stockings, and eacbof his associates had lost a jacket.. F 3 ;^6 LFEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. Having given up all hope of recovering Iheir clothes, which indeed were never afterwards heard of, they spent all the morning in sohciting the hogs which they had been promised ; but in this they had uo better suc- cess; they therefore, in no very good humour, set out • for the boat about twelve o'clock, with only that which Ihey had redeemed from the butcher and the cook the night before. On June I, the 3d being the day of the transit, the captain dispalclied Mr. Gore in the long boat to Iinao, with Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Sporing, a gentleman be- longing to Mr. Banks, Mr. Green having furnished them with proper instruments. Mr, Banks himself thought fit to go upon this expedition, and several natives, par- ticularly Toubourai Tamaide and Tomio, were also of the party. The long boat jiot having been got ready till the afternoon, though all possible expedition was used to fit her out ; the people on board, after having rowed most part of the night, brought her to a grappling just under the land of Imao. Soon after day-break, on the 2d, they saw an Indian canoe, which they hailed, and the people on board shesved them an inlet through the reel into which they pulled, and soon fixed upon a coral rock, which rose out of the water about one hun- dred and fifty yards from the shore, as a proper situation for their observatory ; it was about eighty yards long and twenty broad, and in the middle of it was a bed of white and, large enough for tents to stand upon. Mr. Gore and his assistants imn edialely began to st t them vp, and make other necessary preparations for the impor- tant buviness of the next day. While this na^ dumg, Mr. Baiiks with the Indrans ofOtalieile, and the people whom they had met in the canoes, went ashore upon LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. J$7 (he main island, to buy provisions ; of which he procur- ed a sufficient supply before night. When he returned to the rock, he found the observatory in order, and the telescopes all fixed and tried. On the 3d, at day-break, they got up, and had the satisfaction to see the sun rise, without a cloud. jVIr, Banks then wishing the observers success, repaired agaij> to the island, that he might examine ils produce, and get a fresh supply of provisions ; he began by trading witb the natives, for which purpose he took his station under a tree j and to keep them from pressing upon him in a crowd, he drew a circle round him, which he suffered none of them to enter. About eight o^clock, he saw two canoes coming towards the place, and was given to understand by the people about him, that they belonged to Tarrao, the king of the island, who was coming to make him a visit. As soon as the canoes came near the shore, the people made a lane from the beach to the trading-place, and his Majesty landed, with his sister whose name was Nuna; as they advanced towards the tree where Air. Banks stood, he went out to meet them, and with great formality, introduced them into the circle from which the other natives had been excluded. As it is the custom of these people to sit during all their conferences, Mr. Banks unwrapped a kind of turban of In'!ian cloth, which he wore upon his head instead of a hat, and spreading it upon the ground, they all sat dov\n upon It together. The royal present was then brought^ which consisted of a hog and dog, some bread-lruit, cc- coa-nuls, and oilier articles of the like kind. Mr. Banks then dispatched a canoe to the observatory for his pre- sent, and the messengers soon returned with an adze, a shirt, and some beads, which' were presented to his ma- ^& tTEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. jesty, and received with great salisfaction. By lliis' time, Toubourai Tamaide and Tomio joined them from the observatory. Tomio said, that she wa<; related to Tarrao, and brought him a present of a long nail, at the same time complimenting Nuna with a shirt. The first internal contact of the plhnet with the sun being over, Mr. Banks returned to the observatory, tak- ingTarrao, Nuna, and some of iheif principal attendants, among whom were three very handsome young women with him ; he showed them- the planet upc)n the sun, and endeavoured to make them understand that he and his companions Imd come from their own country on purpose to see it. Soon after, Mr. Banks returned with them to the island, where he spent the rest of the day in examining its produce, which he found to be much the same with that of Otaheile. The people whom i/e saw there also exactly resembled the inhabitants of that island, and many of them were persons whom he had seen upon it ; so that all those whom he had dealt wiih knew of what his trading articles consisted, and the va- lue they bore. The observation was made with equal success by other persons whom the captain had sent to the eastward, and at the fiort, there not being a cloud in the sky from the rising to the setting of the sun, tile ■whole passage of the planet Venus over the sun's disk. Was observed with great advantage by thecaptain, N?r. Green, and Dr. Swjander. They all saw an atmosphere ^ or dusky cloud round the body of the planet, which "very much disturbed the times of contact, especially of the internal ones ; and they differed from each other in their accounts of the times of the contacts much more ■ ihaii might have been expected. LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. €9 The next morning, having struck the tents, they set ©uton their retuivi, and arrived at the fort before niijht. About this lime died an old vvon>an oF some rank, who was related to Tomio, which gave our navigators an opportunity to see how they disposed of the body. In the middle of a small square, neatly railed in with bamboo, the awning of a canoe was raised upon two posts, and under this the body was deposited upon a frame ; it was covered with fine clolVi, and near it was placed bread-fruit, fish, and other provisions; ii was sup- posed that the (ood was placed (here for the spirit of the deceased, and consequently, that these Indians had some confused notion of a separate stale ; Toubourai Tamaide said that the food was placed there as an offering to their gods. In the front of the area was a kind of stile, where the relations of the deceased stood to pay the tribute of their sorrow ; and under the awning were innumerable small pieces of cloth, on which the tears and blood of the mourners had been shed ; for in their paroxysms of grief it is a universal custom to wound themselves with the shark's tooth. Within a few yards .two occasional houses were set up, ni one o^ which some relations of the deceased constantly resided, and In the other the chief mourner, who is always a man, and and who keeps there a very singular dress, in which a ceremony is performed. Near the place where the d fad are thus set up to rot, the bones are afterwards buried. The funeral ceremony took place on the lOth, and Mr. Banks had so great a curiosity to see all the myrte- ries of the solemnity, that he repaired to the place where Ihe body lay, and v\*as received by the daughter of the deceased, and several other persons, among whom was 70 LIEUIENAXT COOK^S FIRST VOYAGE^ a boy about fourteen year^ old, who were lo assi'ri-. in the ceremony. Toubourai Taiiiaide was lo be ;the princip;al mourner; and hrs dress, thougii ex- tremely r..ntasiical» was not uribecoming. Mr. Banl^s •was stripped of his Euroj-iean cloalhs,ancla small piece oC cloth bei^ig lied round his middle, his body was smear- ed with charcoal and water, a^ low as the shoulders, till it was a-i black as that of a negro; thv same operation wa» performed upon several others, among whom were some women, who were reduced to a state as near lo naked- ness as himselfi the boy was blacked all over, and then the procession set forward. Toubourai Taruaide uttered some- thing, which was supposed to be a prayer, near the body;, and es. Several articles were stolen by the natives at different times; and on the 14:th, at the fort, in the middle of the night, an Indian contrived to st^al an iron coal-rake, that was made use of for the oven. The captain thought it of some ronsequence, if possible, to put an end to these practices at onc^, by doing somediing that should make it liie common interest of the natives ihemselves, to pre- vent ihem. He had given strict orders that they should net be tired upon, even when delected in these attempts, but he seized above twenty of tlieir sailing canoes that were ju^t tome in with a supply offish; and bringing them into the river behind the fort, gave public notice, that except the rake, and all the rest oi thpule, by sending the boat's crew to the river, where stones enough were to be gathered without a possibility of giv- ing offence. In the evening of the li)th, while the canoes were still detained, they received a visit from Oberea. The next morning early, she returned to the fort, wiih her canoe and every thing that it contained. She presented them with a hog, and several other things, among which was a dog. These animals were esteemed by the Indians as more delicate food than tiieir pork ; and upon this occa- sion they determined to try the experiment ; the dog, which was very fat, they consigned over toTupia, who undertook to perform the double office of butcher and cook. He killed him by holding his hands close over his mouth and nose, an operation which continued above a quarter of an hour. While this was doing, a hole was made in the ground about a foot deep, in which a fire was kindled, and some small stones placed in layers al- ternately with the wood to heat; the dog was then singed, b^^'ng l^^ld over the fire, and, by scraping him with a shell the hair taken off a scleanas if he had been scalded in hot water ; he was then cut up with the same instrument, and his entrails being taken out, were sent to the sea, where being carefully washed, they were put into cocoa-nut shells, with what blood had come from the bo^y ; when the hole was sufficiently heated, the tire was taken out, and some of the stones, which were not so hot as to discolour any thing that they touched, being placed at the bottom, were cjL>vered with green leaves: 3 LIEUTEMAKT COOK^J FITIST VOYAGE. 75 (fae dog, with the entrails was then placed upon the leaves, and other Jeaves being laid upon them, the whole was covered with the rest of the hot stones, and the mouth of the hole close stopped with mould; in somewhat less than four b.ours it was again opened, and the dog taken out excellently baked ; they all agreed that he made a very good dish. Ths dogs which are here bred to be eaten, taste no animal food^ but are kept wholly upon bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, yams, and other ve- getables of the like kind ; all the flesh and fish eaten by the inhabitants i-; dressed in the same way. On the 21st they were visited at the fort by a chief called Oamo, whom they had never seen before, and who was treated by the natives with uncommon respect ; he brought with him a boy about seven years old, and a young woman about sixteen ; the boy was carried up- on a man's back, which they considered as a piece of state, for he was as well able to walk as any present. As soon as they were in sight, Oberea, and several other natives who were in the fort, went out to meet them, having first uncovered their heads and bodies as low as the waist ; as tliey came on, the same ceremony was performed by all the natives who were without the fort. Uncovering the body, therefore, is in this country, pro- bably a mark of respect ; and as all parts are here ex- posed with equal indifference, the ceremony of unco- vering it from the waist downwards, wtiich w as per- formed by Ooratiooa, might be nothing more than a dif- ferent mode of compliment, adapted to persons of a dif- ferent rank. The chief came into the tent, but no en- treaty could prevail upon the young woman to follow him, though she seemed to refuse contrary to her inclina- tion ; the natives without were indeed all very solicit- ^o. S». G 74< tfEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. ous to prevent her; sometimes, when her resolution seemed to fail, almost using force ; the boy also they restrained in the same manner ; but Dr. Solander hap- peninoj to meet him at the gale, took him by the hand, and led him in before the people were aware of it ; as soon, however, as those that were within saw him, they took care to have him sent out. These circumstances having strongly excited curio- sity, they enquired who they were, and were informed, that Oamo was thehu'^band of Oberea, though they had been a long time eparated by mutual consent ; and that the young woman and the b-iy were their children. The boy whose nime was Terridiri, was heir-apparent to the sovereignty of the island, and his sister wa,^ in- tended for his wife, the marriage being deferred only till be should arrive at a proper age. On the 2oih, Captain Cook set out in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks, to make the circuit of the ,. island, with a view to sketch out the coast and harbours. ^ They took their route to the eastward, and about eigi.it in the forenoon went on shore, in a district cabled Oahounue, which is governed by Ahia, a }Oung chief, whom they had often seen at the tents, and who favour- ed them with his company to breakfast. Here also they found two other natives of their old acquaintance, Tilu- boalo and Hoona, who carried them to their houses. This harbour lies on the west side of a great bay, under shelterof a small inland called Boouro, near which is another called Taawirrii ; the breach in the r^ef is here very large, but the shelter for tl>e ships is not tb« best. Soon after they had examined this place, they took boat, and asked Tituboalo to go with them to the other side of the bay ; but he advised them not to go, k>£ be LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. T9 said (lie country there was inhabited by people who were not subject to Tootahah, and who would kill both him and them. Upon receiving this intelligence, they did not, however, relinquish their enterprise ; but im- mediately loaded their pieces with ball ; this was so well understood by Tituboalo as a precaution which rendered them formidable, that he now consented to be of their party. Having rowed till it was dark, they reached a low neck of land, or isthmus, at the bottom of the bay, that divides the island into peninsulas, each of which is a district or government wholly independent of the other. As they had not yet got into their enemy's country, they deiermined to sleep on shore ; they landed, and though they found but few houses, they saw several double canoes, whose owners were well known to thera> and who provided thera with supper and lodging; of which Mr. Banks was indebted for his share to Oora- looa, the lady who had visited him at the fort. In the morning, they looked about the country, and found it to be a marshy flat, about two miles over, across which the natives haul tlicir canoes lo the corresponding bay on the other side. Tiiey then prepared to continue their route for what Tiluboaio called the other kingdom ; he said that the name of it was Tiarrabou or Otaheite Ete ; and that of the chief who governed it, Waheatua ; upon this occasion also, they learnt, that the name of th<5 peninsula where they had taken their station was Opou- reonu, or Otaheite Nue. After rowing a few^ miles they landed in a district, which was ihe dominion of a chief called Maraitata (the burying.place of men) whose father's naa;e wa Pahaircdo (the stealer of boats). Thojgh these names seemed to favour the account that had been given by c 2 76 LIEUTENANT COOK's ?IR^T VOYAGE. Titoboala, they soon found that it was not true. Both the father and the son received them with the greatest ci- vility, gave them provi.«iions, and, after some delay, sold them a very large hog for a hatchet. A crowd soon ga- tliered round them, but they saw only two people thai they knew. They then' proceeded till they came to tha district whicli was immediately under the government of tlie principal chief, or king of the peninsula, Wahealna, and which consists of a large and fertile plain, watered by a river so wide, that they were obliged to ferry over it in a canoe. In this place they saw no house that ap- peared to be inhabited, but the ruins of many, that had been very large. They proceeded along the shore, which forms a bay, called Oaitipeha, and at last found the chief sitting near some pretty canoe awnings, under which it was supposed, he and his attendants slept. He w as a thin old man, with a very white head and beard, and had with him a comely woman, about five and twenty years old, whose name was Toudidde. From this place, between which and the isthmus, there are other harbours, formed by the reefs that lie along the shore, they were accompanied by Tearee, the son ot Waheat- na, of whom they had purcliased a hog, and the coun- try they passed through appeared to be more cultivated than any they had seen in other parts of the island. The houses were neither large nor numerous, but the canoes that were hauled up along the shore, were almost innu- merable, and superior to any they had seen before, both in size and make. At almost every point there was a sepulchral building, and there were many of them also in land. But in^this part of the country, however fertile and cultivated, they did not see a single bread-fruit; LIEUTEVAKT COOk's FfRST VOYAGE. 77 the frees were entirely bare, and (he inhabitants seemed (o sub'^Ist principally upon nuts. Mr. Banks and hi«. comrades having had a scanty sup- per, took, up their lodging under the awning of a canoe belonging to Tcaree. The next morning, after having spent some time in a fruitless attempl to procure a supply of provision^;, they proceeded round the south east point, part of which is not covered by any reef^ but lies open to the sea ; and here (he hill rises directly from the shore. At the southermost part of the island, the shore is again cover- ed by a reef, which forms a good harbour; and the land about it is very fertile, Thtry made this route partly on foot, and partly in the boat ; when they had walked about three miles, they arrived at a place where they saw seve- ral large can^>es, and a number of people with them, whom they were agreeably surprised to find v^ere of ti)ei'r intimate acquaintance. Here, wiih much difficulty, they procured some cocoa-nuts, and then embarked, taking with ihem Tuahow, one of the Indians who had waited for them at Wahealna's, and had returned the nio-ht be- fore, long after it was dark. When they came abreast of the souih-east end of the island, they w^nt ashore, by the advice of ti.eir Indian guide. The chief, whose name was Mathiaho, soon came, but seemed to be a (olal stranger both to them and their trade ; his subjects, liowever, brought plenty of cocoa-nuts, and about twenty bread-fruit. The bread-fruit they bought at a very dear rate, but his excellency sold them a pig for a glass bottle, which he preferred to every thing else that they could give him. They found in his possession a goose aiid a turkey-cock, which had been left upon i{\^ island by the Dolphin ; they were both enormously fat, G 3 78 LIEVTENANT COOk's PIUST VOYAGE. and so tame that they followed the Indians, who were fond of them. In a long hou-^e in this neighbourhood, ihey saw wiiat was very singular. At one end of it, fastened to a semi* circular board, hung fifteen human jaw-bones ; they appeared to be fresh, and there was not one of them that wanted a single tooth. This strongly excited their curiosity, but they could get no information, for the people either could not, or would not understand them. When they left this place, t!ie chief Mathiabo desired leave to accompany them, which was readily granted. He continued with them the remainder of the day, and proved very useful, by piloting them over the shoals. Having landed they saw a large house at some dis- tance, which Mathiabo said, belonged to one of his friends ; and soon after several canoes came to meet them, having on board some very iiandsome women, who, by their behaviour, seemed to have been sent to entice them on shore. They found that the house belongs ed to Wiverou, the chief of the district, who received them in a very friendly manner, and ordered his people lo assist them in dressing lliem provision, of which they had now got a tolerable stock. When supper was ready, they were conducted into that part of the house where Wiverou was sitting, in order to eat it ; Mathiabo supped with them, and Wiverou calling tor his supper at the same time, they eat their meal very sociably, and with great good humour. When it was over, they be- gan to en({uire where they were to sleep, and a part of the house was shewn them, of which they were told -they might take possession for that purpose. They Ihtio sent for their cloaks, and Mr. Banks began to un- LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 7^ dress, as his custom was, and, wilh a precaution which he had been taught by the loss of the jackets at Atahou- rou, sent his clothes aboard (he boat, proposing to cover himself with a piece of iiidian cloth. When Malhiabo perceived what was doing, he also pretended to want a cloak J and, as he had behaved very well, a cloak was ordered for him. They lay down, and observed that Mathiabo was not with them, but supposed that he was gone to bathe, as the Indians always do before they sleep. They had not waited long, however, when an Indian, who was a stranger to ihem, came and told Mr. Banks, that the cloak and Malhiabo had disappeared together. This man had so far gained their confidence, that they did not ai first believe the report; hal it be- ing soon after confirmed by Tuahow, they knew no time was to be lost. As it was impossible to pursue the thief with any hope of success, without the assistance of the people about them, Mr. Banks started up, and tell- ing their case, required them to recover the cloak ; and to enforce this requisition, shewed one of his pocket pistols, which he always kept about liim. Upon the sight of the pistol, the whole company took the alarm, and, instead of assisting to catch the thief, or recover what had been stolen, began with great precipitation to leave the place; one of them, however, was seized, up* on which he immediately offered to direct the chase; the captain set out therefore wilh Mr. Banks, and though they ran all the way, the alarm had got before them, for in about ten minutes they met a man bringing back the cloak, which the thief had relinquished in great terror. When they returned, they found the house, in which there had been between two and three hundred people, «niirely deserted. It being, however, soon kpown thai SG LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. (hey had no resentment against any body but Malhiabo,^ the chief, Wiveroii, his wife and man^ others, returned and took up their lodgings with them for ihe night. About five o'clock in the morni»g their centry alarmed them, with an account that the boat was missing. Greatly alarmed, they now started up, and ran to the water-side ; the morning was clear and star light, so that they could see to a considerable distance, but there was no appearance of the boat. In this state of anxiety and distress, they remained a considerable time, expect- ing the Indians every moment to improve their advan- tage, when, to their unspeakable satisfaction, they saw the boat return, which had been driven from her grap- pling by the tide ; hereupon they breakfasted immedi- ately, and departed. This place is situated on the north side of Tiarrabou, the south-east peninsula, or division, of the island, and at the distance of about five miles soulh-(.asl from the isth- rnus, having a large and commodious harbour. The island is fertile and populous, and the inhabitants very friendly. The last dislrict in TiarrahoM, in which they landed, was govern d by a chief, whose name was Omoe, v\ ho was building a house, and being therefcre very desirous of procuring a hatchet, would have been glad to have pur- chased one with any thing that he had in his posses- sion ; it happened, however, rather unfortunately for both parties, that they had not one hatchet left in the boat. The chief, however, unwilling to relinquish all hope of obtaining something from them that would be of use to him, embarked in a canoe, with his wife Whanno-ouda, and followed them. After some time, they took them into their boat, and when they had irEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. 5l rowed about a league, they desired to be put ashore;, they immediately complied with his request, and found some of his people, who had brought down a very large hog. They were as unwilling to lose the hog, as the chief was to part with them, and it was indeed worth Ihe best axe they had in the ship; they therefore told him, that if he would bring his hog to the fort at Matavai (the Indian name for Port Royal Bay) he should have a large axe, and a nail into the bargain, for his trouble. To this proposal, after having consulted his wife, he agreed, and gave them a large piece of his country cloth as a pledge that he would perform his agreement, which however he never did. At this place they saw a very sin« gular curiosity; it was the figureof a man, constructed of basket work, rudely made, but not ill designed; it wan something more than seven feet high, and rather too bulky in proportion to its height. The wicker skeleton was completely covered with feathers, which were white where the skin was to appear, and black in the parts which it is their custom either to paint or stain, and up- on the head, where there was to be a representation of hair ; upon the head also were four protuberances, like horns, three in front and one behind, which the Indian* dignified with the name of Tate Ete (little men). The image was called Manioe, and was said to be the only one of the kind in Otaheite. They afterwards learned that it wa^ a representation of Mauwe, one of theic Ealuas, or gods of the second class. Having passed through the only harbour, on the south side of Opoureonu, that is fit for shipping, they were now not far from the district called Paparra, which belonged to their friends Oamo and Oberea, where they proposed to sleep. Mr. Banks and his associate?, went 82 LTEUTErJANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. on shore about an hour before night, and found that they were both absent, having left their habitations to pay them a visit at Matavai ; ihi^, however, did not alter their purpose, they took up their quarters at the house of Oberea, which, though small, was very neat, and at this tirne had no inhabitant but her father, whd received them with looks of a hearty welcome. They took this opportunity of walking out to a point, upon which they had seen, at a di>tance, trees that are here called Etoa, which generally distinguish the places where these people bury the bones of their dead ; their name. for such burying grounds, which are a\fo places of wor- ehip, is Morai. Triey were soon struck with the sight of an enormous pile, which they were told, was the Morai of Oamo and Oberea, and a principal piece of Indian architecture in the island. It was a pile of stone- work, raised pyramidically, upon an oblong base, or square, two hundred and sixtv-seven feet long, and eightyrseven wide. On each side was a flight ot' steps, eleven in ail, each of which was four feet high, so thafe the heighl of the pile was forty-four feet; each step was formed of one course of while coral stone, which was neatly squared and polished j ihe rest of the mass, \o( there was no hollow within, consisted of round pebbles, which, from the regularity of their figure, seemed to have been wrought. The foundation was of rock stones, which were also squared ; and one of them measured four feet seven inches by two feet four. In the middle of the top stood the image of a bird, carved in wood ; and near it lay the broken one of a fish, carv- ed in stone. The whole of this pyramid made part of one side of a spacious area or square, nearly of equal aides, being three hundred and sixty feet by three hun- LiEUTEJfANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. S3 dred and fifty-four, vvliicli was walled in wilh i rone, and paved with flat stones in its whole ex4ent ; though there were growing in it, notwithstanding the pavement, se- veral of- the trees which they call Etoa, and plantains. About an hundred yards to the west of this building, was another paved area or court, in which were several small stages raised on wooden pillars, about seven feet high, which are called hy the Indians Ewatlas, and seem to be a kind of altars, as upon these are placed provisions of all kinds as offerings to their gods. On theSOlh they arrived at Atahoarou, the residence of Tootahah, who received them with great pleasure, and gave them a goorl supper and a good lodging. The next day, they got back to their fort at Malavai, having found the circuit of the island, including both peninsulas, to be about thirty leagues. Their Indian friends crowded upon them, and none of them came without provisions. '81/ LIEUTENANT COOK-'s FIRST VOYAGE. CIIJP. III. Expeditions— Departure from the Island of Otahcite — ^Tupia pro- ceeds with them on theirVoyage — Remarks — Various Harbours and Iftl.iuds discovered — Passage to New Zealand — Povertj liay-Cape Turnagain-Tolaga— Mercury Bay-Bay of Islands- Queen Ch.irlotte's Sound, &c. On the 3d of July, Mr. Banks set out early in the morn- ing with some Indian guides, to trace the river up the valley from which it issues, and examine how far its banks were inhabited. For about six miles they met with houses, not far distant from each other, on each side of the river, and at last they were shewn a house which they were told was the last that they could see. The master of it offered them refreshments of cocoa-nuts and other fruits, of which they accepted; after a short stay, they continued their walk, and frequentl)' passed under vaults, formed by fragments of the rock, in which they were told people who were benighted trequenily look refuge. Soon after they found the river banked by steep rocks, from which a cascade, falling with great violence, formed a pool, so steep, that the Indiaais said they could not pass it. During this excursiou Mr. Ranks examin- ed the rocks for minerals, but he found not the least ap- pearance of any. The stones every where, like those of Madeira, shewed manifest tokens of having been burnt. LFEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. 85 Traces of fire were also manifest in the very clay upon the hills. The next day Mr. Brinks efnp]o)ed himself in plant- ingagreatquantity of iht-seedsof water-melons, oranges, Jemons, limes, and other plants and trees which he had collected at Ps.io de Janeiro. He also gave liberall)' of the seeds to the Indian^, and planted many of tlicm in the wood> ; some of the melon seeds having been planted soon after their arrival, appeared to be in the most flourishing condition. They now began to prepare for their departure, and on the 7th, when the carpenters were employed in taking down the gates and palisadoes of their little fortification, for firewood on board ihe ship, one of the Indians had dexterity enough to steal the staple and hook upon which the gate turned ; he was immediately pursued, but escaped ; soon ^fler Toubourai Tamalde brought them the staple. They were in hopes that they should now leave the island, without giving or receiving any other offence ; but it unfortunately happened other- v.'ise. Two foreign seamen having been out, one of. them was robbed of his knife, and endeavouring to reco- ver it, prc'bably with circumstances of great provocation, the Indians attacked him, and dangerously wounded him with a stone; they wounded his companion also slightly in the head, and thtn tiiid into the mountains. As the captain would not iiave wished to take any far- ther notice of the affair, he was not displeased that the offenders had escaped ; but he was immediately involv- ed in a quarrel which he very much regretted, and which it was not possible lo avoid. Between the Sth and 9lh, Clement Webb and Samuel Gibson, two of the marines, both young men, went privately from Ih^ NO. 35. H 86 LIEUTblNANT COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. fort, and in the morning were not to be found. As pub- lic notice iiad been given, that all hands were to go on board on the next day, and that the ship would sail on the morrow of that day or the day following, the captain began to fear that the absentees intended to stay behind. He knew that he could lake no effectual steps to reco- ver them, without endangering llie harmony and good will which at present subsisted among (hem, and there- fore determined to wait a chy for the chance of their re- turn. On ihe 10th, the marines not being returned, an en- quiry was made after them of (he Indians, who frankly said, that they did not intend to return, and had taken refuge in the mountains. They were then requested to assist in the search, and after some deliberation, two oi them undertook to conduct such persons as the captain should think proper to send after ^them to the place of their retreat. As they were known to be without arms, be thought two would be sufficient, and accordingly dis-* patched a petty officer, and the corporal of the marines with the Indian guides, to fetch tiiem back. It was in- timated by the captain to several of the chiefs who were in the fort wit'i their women, among whom were Tou- bourai Tamaide, Tomio, and Oberea ; thai they would not be permitted to leave it till their deserters were brought back. They received the intimation with very little signs either of tear or discontent ; as>uring him that his people should be secured and sent back as soon as possible. While this was doing at the fort, Mr. Hicks was sent in the pinnace to fetch Tootahah on board the ship which he did without alarming either him or his people. Night coming on, the captain thought it was not safe to let the people whom he had detained as bus- LIEUTENANT COOk's TIRST VOYAGE. 87 lages continue at the fort, and therefore ordered them to be taken on board the ship. This spread a general alarm, and several ofthem, especially the women, ex- pressed their apprehensions with great emotion and ma- ny tears when they were put into the boat. About nine o'clock Webb was brought back by some of the natives, who declared, that Gibson, and the petty officer and corporal, would be detained till Tootahah should be set at liberty. Mr. Hicks was immediately dispatched in the long boat, with a strong party of men. to rescue the prisoners, and told Tootahah that it behoved liim to send some of his people with them, with orders to afford them effectual assistance, and to demand the release of his men, for that he siiould expect him to an- swer for the contrary. He readily complied, and the men were recovered without the least opposition. The chiefs were set on shore, those at the tort were also set at liberty, and, after staying with Mr. Banks about an hour, ihey all went away. Upon this occasion, as they bad done upon another of the same kind, they expressed their joy by an undeserved liberality, strongly urging ihem to accept of four hogs. These they abso- -lutely refused as a present, and they as absolutely re- fusing to be paid for them, the hogs did not change mas- ters. Upon examining the deserters, they found that the account which the Indians had given of them was true ; they had strongly attached themselves to two girls, and it was their intention to conceal themselves till the ship had sailed, and take up their residence upon the island. On the 12th, Tupia, the first minister of Oberea, when she was at tlie height of her power ; and also the chief Tahowa, or priest of the island, having often ex- h2 $S LIEUTENANT COOk's FIKST VOYAGE. pressed a desire (o go with them, came on board, wtlli a boy about tliirleen years of age, his servant, and urged ihem (o let him proceed vvilh them on their voyage ; as to Iiave such a person on board uas certainly desira- ble for many reasons, ihe capt;j^in gladly agreed to re- ceive him on board. Tupia went accordingly, and took with him a miniature picture of Mr. Banks, to shew his friends, and several little tilings to give tiiem as parting presents. On the next morning, the ship was very early crowd- ed with friends, and surrounded by a multitude of ca- noes, which were filled with the natives of an inft-riur class. Between eleven and twelve ihey weighed an- chor, and as soon as the ship was under sail, the Indians on board look their leaves, and wept, with a decent and silent sorrow, but the people in tho canoes seemed to vie with each other in the loudness of their Jamentations. Tupia sustained himself in this scene with a firmness and resolution truly admirable. He sent his last present, a shirt, by Otheothea, to Potoraai, Tootahah's favourite mistress, and then went with Mr, Banks to the mast-head, waving to the canoes as long as they continued in sight. The produce of this island is bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, of thirteen sorts ; plantains; a fruit not unlike an apple, which, when ripe, is very pleasant ; svi'eet potatoes, yams, cocoas, a kind of Arum ; a fruit known here by the name of Jambu, and reckoned most deli- cious ; sugar cane, which the iiihabitants eat raw ; a root of the Salop kind, called by the inhabitants Pea ; a plant called Ethee, of which the root only is eaten ; fruit that grows in a pod, like that of a large kidney- bean, which, when it is roasted, eats ve/y much like a LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 89 chesnut, by the natives called Ahee ; a tree called Wharra, which produces fruit something like the pine- apple ; a shrub called Nono ; the Morinda, which also produces fruit ; a species of fern, of which the root is eaten, and sometimes the leaves; and a plant called Theve, of which the root also is eaten ; but the fruits of the Nono, the Fern, and the Theve, are eaten only by the inferior people, and in times of scarcity. They have no European iruit, garden stuff, pulse, or legumes, nor grain of any kind. Of tame animals they have only hogs, dogs, and poultry; neither is (here a wild animal in the island, except ducks, pigeons, paroquets, witb a Text other birds, and rats, there being no other quadruped^ nor any serpent. But the sea supplies them with great variety of most excellent fish to eat, which is their chief luxury^ and to catch it Iheir principal labour. ' As to the people they are of the largest size of Euro- peans. The men are tall, strong, well-limbed, and finely shaped. Tl)eir natural complexion is that kind of clear olive or Brunette. The shape of the face is come- ly, the cheek-bones are not liigh, neither are the eyes hollow, nor the brow prominent j the only feature tiiat does not correspond with our ideas of beauty is the nose, which in gereral, is somewhat fiat ; but their eyes, espe- cially those of the women, are fiill of expression, some- times sparkling with (ire, and sometimes melting with softness; their teeth also are, almost without exception, most beautifully even and white, and their breath per- feclly without taint. The hair is almost universally- black, and rather coarse ; the men have beards, whicb they wear in many fashions, always, however, plucking out great part of them, and keeping the rest perfectlj^ ii3 90 LIEUTF-NANT COOK*S flRST VOYAGK, clean and neal. Both sexes also eradicate every hair from under their arms, and accused the English of unclean- liiiess for not doing the same. They have a custom of staining their bodies, nearly in the some manner as is practised in many other parts of the world, which they call Tattowing. The operation is painful, and it is some days before the wounds are healed. Il is per- formed upon the youth of both sexes, when they are about twelve or fourteen years of age, on several parts of the body, and in various figures, according to the fancy of the parent, or perhaps the rank of the party. The cloth, which will not bear wetting, they wear in dry weather, and the matting when it rains ; they are put on in many different ways, just as their fancy leads them ; for in their garments nothing iscut into shape, nor are any two pieces sewed together. The dress of the belter sort of woinen consists of three or four pieces ; one piece, about two yards wide, and eleven yards long, they wrap several times round their waist, so as to hang down like a petticoat as low as the middle of the leg, and this they call Parou; two or three other pieces, about two yards and an half long, and one wide, each having a hole cut in the middle, they place one upon another, and then putting the head through the holes, they bring the long ends down before and behind j the others remain open at the sides, and give liberty to the arms: this, which they call the Tebuta, is gathered found the waist, and confined with a girdle or sash of thinner cloth, which is long enough to go many times round them. The dress of the men is the same, except that, instead of suffering the cloth that is wound about the hips to hang down like a petticoat, they bring it be- tween their legs so as to have some resemblance to LIEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. 91 breecbe^ and it is then called Maro. This is the dress of all ranks of people, and being universally the same as to form, the gentlenlen and ladies are only distinguished from the lower people by the quantity. In the heat of the day they appear almost naked, the women having only a scanty petticoat, and the men nothing but the sa>h that is passed between their legs asd tastened round the waist. Thv^ children go quite naked ; the girls till they are three or four years old, and the boys till they are six or seven. The houses, or rather dwellings of these people, are all built in the wood, between the sea and the moun- tains, and no more ground is cleared for each house, than just sufficient to prevent the dropping of the branches from rotting the thatch with which fhey are co- vered; from the house, therefore, the inhabitant steps imme'lialely under the shade, which is the most de- lightful that can be imagined. It consists of groves of bread-iruit and cocoa-nuts, without underwood, which arc intersected, in all directions, by the paths that lead from one house to the other. As there is no under- wood, the shade cools without impeding the air ; and the houses, having no walls, receive the gale from what- ever point it blows. There are, however, houses of another kind, belonging to the chiefs, in which there is some degree of privacy. These are much smaller, and so constructed as to be carried about in their canoes from place to place, and set up occasionally, like a lent ; they are inclosed on the sides with cocoa-nut leaves, but not so close as to exclude the air, and chief and his wife sleep in them alone. There are houses also of a much larger size, not built either for the accommodation ofa single chief or family ; but as common receptacles for ail ^2 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. the people ofa district. Some of ihem are two hundred feet long, thirty broad, and, under the ridge, twenty feet high ; these are built and maintained at the com- mon expence of the district, for the accommodation of which they are intended ; and have on one side ot them a large area, inclosed with low pallisadoes. The quantity of food which these people eat at a meal is prodigious ; and it is very wonderful, tiiat though remarkably fond of society, and particularly that of their women, they should exclude its pleasures from the ta- ble, \Vhere among all other nation*;, whether civil or savage, they have been principally enjoyed. The wo- men not only abstain from eating with the men, and of the same victuals, but even have their victuals separately prepared by boys kept for that purpose, who deposit It in a separate shed, and attend them with it at their meals. After meals, and in (he heat of the day, [the middle- aged people of the better sort generally sleep ; they are indeed extremely indolent, and sleeping and eating is almost all that they do. Those that are older are less drowzy, and the boys and girls are kept awake by the natural activity and sprightliness of their age. As we shall have occasion to treat of their amusements, manu- factures, customs, &c. in the course of this work, any mention of tliem at present would be superfluous. On the 14lh they saw land bearing N. W. ^ VV. which Tupia said was Huaheine. The next day it was hazy, wilh light breezes and calms succeeding each other. Tupia, often prayed for a wind to his god Tane,. and as often boasted of his success, which indeed he took a very effectual melhod to secure, for he never began his address to Tane, till he saw a bxceze so near LIEUTENANT COOR's FfllST VOYAGE. 93 llial he knew it must reach the ship before his oraison was well over. On ih.e 1 6th, being close in with the north-west part of the island Huaheme, they sounded, but had no bot- tom with 80 fathom. Some canoes very soon came off, but the people seemed afraid, and kept at a distance till tJiey discovered Tupia, and then they ventured nearer. In one of the canoes that came up to the ship's side, was the king of the island, and his wife. Upon assurances of friendship, frequently and earnestly repealed, their ma- jesties and some others came on board. At first they were struck with astonishn ent, and wondered at every thing ihat was shewn ihem ; yet they made no enquiries, and seeming to be «alisfied with what was offered to their notice, they made no search after other objects of curiosity. \The king, who was called Oree, proposed, as a mark of amity, to exchange names with the captain. To this he readily consented, and the chief was Cookee, (for so he pronounced his name) and thecaotain Oree, for the rest of the time they were together These peo- ple were very nearly the same with tli .-e of Otaheite, in person, dress, language, and every other circumstance, except (it Tupia might be believed) that they would not steal. Soon after dinner they came to an anchor, in a small but excellent harbour on the west side of the island, which the natives call Owharre, in eighteen fathom wa- ter, c'ear ground, and secure from all winds. Captain Cook went immediately ashore^ accompanied by Mr, Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Monkhou^e, Tupia, King Cookee, and some other of the natives who had been on board ever since the morning. Tlie mouient they landed, Tupia stripped himself as low as the waist, and 94* LIEUTENANT COOK'S HR5I VOYAGE. desired Mr. Monkhouse to do the same. He then began a speech or pra)cr, which la-ted about a quarter of ar> hour, the kinor who stood over agaiusl him every now and tlien^ ansvv(iring in what appTared to be set re- sponses. Ill the course of this harangue he dehvered at difFe.rent limes two handherchiets, a black silk neck- clotli, some beads, two small bunciies of feathers, and some plantain>', as pre'^ents to their Etna or God. In return for these, he received for the Eluaof the English, a hog, some young plantain, and two small bunches of feathers, which he ordered to be carried on board the ship. After these ceremonies, which were supposed la be the ratification of a Irtaly between both parlies, every one was disa/tssed to go whither he pleased. They went on shore again on tlie iZth, and walked up the hills, where the productions were exactly the same as tlioseof Otaheile. The houses were neat, and the boat-huuses remarkably large. On the 10th they brought out some hatchets for which they hoped they should have hacr no occasion, upon an island which no European had ever visited before. These procured them three very large hogs; and as they proposed to sail in tlie afternoon. King Oree and several others came on board to take their leave. To the king was given a small plate of pewter, on which was stamped this inscription, " His Britannic Majesty's ship the Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook, commander^ IGtii July, 1769, Huaheine." He was also presented with some medals or.'counlers, and other trifles. The island of Haaheine, or Huahene, is situated in the latitude of 16" 43' S. and longitude \50o52'W, from Greenwich ; it is distant from Otaheitc about thir- ty-one leagues, in the direction of N. 5.8 '^ W. and is. LIEUTENAVT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE, 95 about seven leagues in compass. Its surface is hilly and uneven, and it has a safe and commodious har- bour. The harbour, which is called by the natives Owalle, or Owharre, lies on the west side, under the northermost high land, and within the north end of the reef, which lies along that side of the island ; there are two inlets or openings, by which it may be entered, through the reef, about a mile and a half distant from each otiier. This island seems to be a month forwarder in its productions than Otalieite, as they found the cocoa- nuts full of kernel, and some of the new bread-fruit fit to eat. The inhabitants seem to be larger made, and more stout ; one man measured six feet ihree inches and an half. The women are very handsome. Having: made sail for the island of Ulietea, which lies S. W. by W. distant seven or eight leagues from Hu- ahcire, in the evening they were within three leagues of the s!u»re, on ihe eastern side. The next mornincr they stood in for the shore, and soon after discovered an opening in the reef which lies before the island, within which Tupia said there was a good harbour. Tiiey ac- cordingly stood in, and anchored in two and twenty fa- thom, with soft ground. The natives soon came off to them in two canoos, each of which brought a woman and a pig ; tliey received both with proper acknowledg- men's, and complimented each of the ladies with a spike nail and some beads, much to their satisfaction. They were told by Tupia, who had always expressed much fear cf the men of Bolabola, that they had made a con- quest of this island ; and that, if tiiey remained here, they would certainly come down to-morrow, and fight them. T i;ey determined, therefore, to go on shore with- out delay, while the day was their own. 5 $6 LIEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. Captain Cook, Mr. Bank;?, Dr. Solander, and others, with Tupia, now went on shore. Tupia introduced them by repeating the cerenionie-; whicli he had per- formed at Huaheine, after which the captain hoisted an English jack, and took possession of this and the three neighbouring islands, Huaheine, Otaha, and Bolaboia, which were all in sight, in the name of his Bii^annic Majesty. After this they look a walk to a great Morai, called Tapodeboatea. It consisted only of four walls, about eight feet high, of coral stones, some of which were of an immense size, inclosing an area of about fivQ and twenty yards square, which was filled up with smaller stones ; upon the top of it many planks were set up on end, which were carved in their whole length ; at a little distance was an altar, or Ewhalla, upon which lay the last oblation or sacrifice, a hog of about eighty pounds weight, which had been offered whole, and very nicely roasted. Here were also four or five Ewharre- no-Eatua, or houses of God, to which carriage-poles were fitted, like that which they had seen at Huaheine. Having strong gales and hazy weather, Ihey did not get under sail till the 24th, when they plied to the north- ward within the reef, with a view to go out at a wider opening than that by which they had entered ; in doing this, however, they were unexpectedly in the most im- minent danger of striking on the rock ; the master sud- denly cried out " two lalhoin." However, the master was either mistaken, or she went along the edge of a coral rock, many of which, in the neighbourhood of these islands, areas sleep as a wall. At four o'clock in the afternoon of the !25lh, they were within a league of Otaha, which bore N. 77° W. To the northward of the south end of that island, on the ilEUTEwAXT COOK*S VlRST VOYAGE. 9T east side of i(, and something more than a mile from the shore, lie two small islands called Toahouta and When- nuaia ; between which (according to Tupia's account) there is a channel into a very good harbour, which lies within the reef. On the 26ih, they discovered a small low island, lying N. by W. or N. N. W. distant four or five leagues from Bolabola. They were told by Tiipia that the name of this island is Tubai ; that it produces no- thing but cocoa-nuts, and is inhabited only by three families. At six o'clock in the morning of the 2Slh, they were near the entrance of the harbour on the east side of Olaha ; the captain sent the master in the long boat, with orders to sound it ; Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went with him ; they landed upon the island, and before right purcha>ed three hogs, l\Aenty-one fowls, and as many yams and plantains as the boat could hold. The island seemed to be miore barren ihan Uiietea, but the produce was of the same kind. The people also ejf- aclly resembled those t.'iat they had seen at the other islai.ds. The master reported that the harbour was safe and commodious wiih good anchoiuge from five and twenty to sixteen fatho.n water, clear ground. They now made sail to the northward, and at eight o'clock the next morning were close under the Peak of Bolabola, which was high, rude, and craggy. On the SOlh ihey discovered an island, distant about eight leagues, which Tupia called Maurua ; he said that it was small, wholly surrounded by a reef, and without any harbour lor shipping; bat inhabited, and bearing the same produce as the neighbouring islands. 98 LIEUTENAVT COOk's FIRST VOYAGt. On the 1st of August they anchored in Iwenty-elght fathom, with a sandy bottom. While this was doing, many of the natives came off to them with hogs, fowls, and plantains, which they parted with at an easy rate. This day Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander spent on shore very much to their satisfaction ; every body seemed to fear and respect them. They were conducted to the houses of the principal people, and were received in a manner altogetiier new ; the people, who followed them while they were in their way, rushed forward as soon as they came to a house, and went hastily in before them, leav- ing however a lane sufficiently wide for them to pass. In the first house they entered they found some very young girls, dressed with the utmost neatness, who kept their station, expecting the strangers to come up to them and make them presents, which they did with the greatest pleasure ; for prettier children or better dressed they had never seen. By order of the master they were now entertained with a dance, different from any that they had seen. It was performed by one man, who put upon his head a large cylindrical piece of wicker-work, or basket, about 4 feet long and 8 inches in diameter, which was faced with feathers, placed perpendicularly, with the tops bending f(irwards, and edged round with shark's teeth, and the tail feathers of Tropic birds ; when he had put on this headdress, which is called a VVhow, he began to dance, moving slowly, and often turning his head so as that the top of his high wicker-cap described a circle, and sometimes throwing it so near the faces of the spectators as to make them start back ; this was held among them as a very good joke, and never failed to produce a peal of laughter, especially when it was played off upon one of the strangers. LIEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGfr. 9^ On the 3d they went along ihe shore to the north- Avard, which was ina direction opposite to that of the route they had taken the day before, with a design to purchase stock, wiiich they always found the people jnore ready to part with, and at a more easy price, at their houses than at the market. In the course of their walk they met with a company of dancers, vvlio detained them two hours, and during all that time afforded them great entertainment. The company consisted of two women dancers, and six men, with three drums. Tiie women had upon their heads a considerable quantity of Tamou, or plaited hair, which was brought several limes round the head, and adorned in many parts with the flowers of the cape-jessamine, which were stuck in with much taste, and made a head-dress truly elegant. Their necks, shoulders, and arms were naked ; so were their breasts also, as low as the pariing of the arm ; below that, they were covered with black cloth, which set close to the body ; at the side of each breast, next the arm, was placed a small plume of black fea- thers ; upon their hips rested a quantity of cloth plaited very full, which reached up to the breast, and fell down, below into long petticoats, which quite concealed ihelt feet, and which they managed with great dexterity ; the plaits above the waist were brown and white alter- nately, the petticoats below were all white. They ad- vanced sideways in a measured step, keeping excellent time to the drums, which beat briskly and loudly; soon after they began to shake their hips, giving the folds of cloth that lay upon them a very quick motion, which was. H) some degree continued through the whole dance, though the body was thrown mto various postures, sometimes standing, sometimes sitting, and someiime* I 2 100 LFj^UTfiNANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. resting on their knees and elbows, the fingers also belrrg moved at the same time with a quickness scarcely to be imagined. Much of the dexterity of the dancers, how- ever, and ll;e entertainmetit of the speclaVor?, consisted in the wantonness of their altitudes and gestures, which wa?, indeed, such as exceeds all description. Bv^tween the dances of the women, the men" performed a kind of dramatic interlude, in which there was dialogue as well a"*' dancing. On the iih some of the gentlemen saw a much more regular entertainment of the dramatic kind, which was c\;vided into four acts. Tlie next day the captain fe- ceived a present of three hogs, some fowls, several pieces of cloth, the largest they had seen, being fifty yards long, and a considerable quantity of plantains, co» eoa-nuts, and other refreshments from Opoony, the foF- midable king, or in the language of the country, Earce rahie, of Bolabola, with a mc^ssage that he was at this time upon the ij^lsnd, and that the next day he intended to pay him a visit. His majesty, however, did not comc^ but, which was much was more agreeable company, ha sent three very pretty girls to demand somullung in re- turn lor his present. In the afternoon they determined to visit the great king. As he was lord of the Bolabola men, th^ conque* rorsof this, and the terror of ail the other islands, they expected to see a chief young and vigorous, with an in, telligent and enterprising spirit ; the) found, however, a poor feeble wr W. from the meridiart of Greenwich; On the 13lh, about noon, they saw land bearing S^ E. which Tupia said was an island called Oheteroa. About six in the evening they were within two or three- Iteagues of it, upon which they shortened sail, and stood off and on all night ; the next morning they stood in for the land. They ran to leeward of the island, keeping close in shore, and several of the natives, though in no great numbers, upon the beach. The captain sent Mr. Gore in the pinnace, to endeavour to land upon the island, and learn from the natives whether there was an-* chorage in a bay then in sight, and what land lay farther to the southward. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander ac- companied Mr. Gore in this expedition, and as they thought Tupia might be useful, they took him with thenu As the boat approached the shore, those on board per- ceived the natives to be armed with long lances; as they did not intend to land till they got round a point, ■which ran out a little distance, they stood along tha coast, and the natives therefore very probably thought they were afraid of them. They had now got togethcp to the number of about sixty, and ail of them sat down upon the shoie, except two, who were dispatched for- ward to observe the motions of those in the boat. Thesa ynen, alter walking abreast of her some time, at length leaperl into the water, and swam towards her, but were soon left behind : two more then appeared, and at^ temp'^d to board her in the same manner, but they also WQI^ )0u left behind , a fifth maa then ran forward ItEWTENANT COOk's FTRST VOYA^SE. lOS alonci and having got a good way ahead of the boat be- fore he look to the water, easily reached her. Mr, Banks urged the officer to take hinv in, thinking it a good, opportunity to get the confidence and good will of a people, who then certainly looked upon them as ene- mies, but he obstinately refused ; this man therefore was left behind like the others, and so was a sixth, who followed him. When the boat had- got round the point, she per- ceived that all her followers had desisted from the pur* suit ; she now opened a large- bay, at the bottom of- which appeared another body of men, armed with long Jances lik^ the first. Here our adventurers prepared to hnd, and pwished towards the shore, a canoe at the same- time putting off to meet them. A« soon as it came near, them, they lay upon their oars, and calling out to them, told them that they were. friends, and that if ihey would- come up they, would give. them nails, which were held up for them to see ; after some hesitation they came up> to the boat's stern, and took some nads^ that were offered tliem with great seeming satisfaction ; bat in less than a minute they appeared to have formed a design of board-, ing the boat, and making her their prize ; three of thenv sudden!> leaped into it, and the others brought up the, .canoe, manilesliy wilh a design to follow their associate*?, and support them in their attempt. The first that boarded the boat, entered close to Mr. Banks, and in-^ Stan ly snatched his j>owder horn out of his pocket ; Mr, Banks seized it, and with sqme difficulty wxenched it out of his hand, at the same time pressing against his breast in- order to force him overboaid, but he was too strong for him and kept his place ; the officer thea Srnapped liis piece, but it missed fire, upon wliich he cr«- liO* LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE; dered some of the people to fire over their heads ; twa pieces were accordingly discharged, upon which they all instantly leaped into the waier ; one of the pt tple, either from cowardice or cruelty, or both, levelled a third, piece at one of t+iem as he was swimming away, and« the ball grazed his forehead ; happily, however, the wound was very slight, for he recovered the canoe, and- stood up in her as active and vigorous as ihe rest. The canoe immediately stood in for the shore, where a great number of people, not less than two hundred, were now assembled. The boat also pushed in but found the' land guarded all round with a shoal, upon which the sea broke with a considerable surt; it was therefore thought advisable by the ofiicer to proceed along shore in search of a more convenient landing-place; in the mean time, the people on board saw the canoe go on? shore, and the natives gather eageily round her to en- quire the particulars of what had happened. Soon after; a single man ran along the shore, armed with his lance, and when he came abreast of the boat he began to < dance, brandish his weapon, and call out in a very shrill tone, which Tupia said was a defiance from the people. The boat continued to row along the shore, and the- champion followed it, repealing his defiance by bis voice and his gestures. At length, finding that there was neither harbour nor anchorage about the island ; and that the hostile dispo- sition ot the people would render landing impracticable, without bloodshed, the captain determined not to at- tempt it. This island is situated in the latitude of 22° 37 ' S. and in the longitude of J30*>47'VV. from the meridian of Greenwich. It is thirteen miles in circuit, and ralhcc: tItUTENANT cook's FIRST VOTAGE. 1 05 high than !ovv, but neither popnious nor ferlite In proper- lion to the other islands ; the people seemed to be lasty and well made; their dress \vas very different fronv^ any that fhey had seen before, as well as the cloth ot which it was made.*- Their habit was a short jacket of doih, which reached about as how as their knees ; it was of one piece, and had no other making than a hole in the middle of it, stitched round with long stitches; through this hole the head was put, and what hung down- was confined to their bodies by a piece of yellow cloth of sash, which passing round the neck behind, w'a3 crossed upon the breast, and then collected round the W'ai^t like a belt, which passed over another belt of red cloth, so that they made a very gay and warlike appear- ance J some had" caps of the feathers of the tropic bird^ and some had a piece of white or lead-coloured clolb wound about the head tike a smnll turban. They sailed from Oieroah on the 1 th, and on the 25lh celebrated the anniversary of their leaving England^ by taking a Cheshir(j cheese from a locker, where it had been carefully treasured up for ihU occasion, and tap- ping a ca*»k of porter, which proved to be very good» and in excellent order. October 6, they saw land, which appeared large^ from the main'mast, bearfng W. by N. and stood di- rectly for it, as »t fell calm the next day ; they therefore tipproached the land slowly, which appeared still larger as it was more distinctly seen, with four or five ranges of hills, rising one over the other, and a chain of moun- tains above all, which appeared to be of an enormous height. About five o*ciock they saw the opening of a bay, which seemed to run pretty far inland, upon which tbey hau'ed their wind and stood in for it j Th«^ aUo 106 LIEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. saw smoke ascending from different places on shore. When night came on, however, tliey kept pl)'ing olV and on till day light, wl)en they found them;'elves to the leeward of the bay, the wind being at north ; they now perceived that tlie hills were clothed with wood, and that some of the trees in the vallies were very large. By noon they fetched in witli the south-west point ; but not being able to weather it, tacked and stood off; at this time they saw several canoes standing across the bay, which in a little lime made to shore, without seeming to lake the least notice of the ship; they also saw some houses, which appeared to be small, but neat ; and near one of them a considerable number of the peo- ple collected together, who were sitting upon the beach. About four o'clock in the afternoon, they anchored oi> the north' west side of the bay, before the entrance of a imall river, in ten fathom water, with a fine sandy bot- tom, and at about half a league from the shore. In the evening the captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr, So- lander, and a party of men, went on shore ; they land- ed abreast of the ship, on the side of the river, which was here about forty yards broad ; when they came near the place where the people were assembled, they all ran away i however, leaving four boys to take care of the yawl, they walked up to some huts which were about two or three hundred yards from the water-side. When they had got a good distance from the boat, four men, armed with long lances, rushed out of the woods, and running up to attack the boat, would cer« tainiy have cut her off, if the people in the pinnace had not discovered them, and called to the boys to drop, dawi; the stream i the boys instantly obeyed ; but bo* LIEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. 107 ing closely pursued by the Indians, the cockswain of the pinnace, who had the charge of the boats, fired a mus- quet over their heads; at this they stopped and looked round jhein, but in a few minutes renewed the pursuit, brandishing their lances in a threatening manner ; the cockswain then fired a second musquet over their heads, but of this they took no notice ; and one of them lifting up his spear to dart it at the boat, another piece was fired, which shot him dead. When he fell, the other three stood motionless for some minutes, as if petrified with astonishment; as soon as they recovered, they went back, dragging after them the dead body, which however they soon left, that it might not encumber their flight. At the report of the first musquet, the captain and his party returned immediately to the ship. On the 9th they saw several of the natives where fhey had been 5;een (he night before, and some walking with a quit k pace towards the place where they had landed, most of them unarmed ; but three or four with long pikes in their hand.s. As the captain was desirous to establish an intercourse with them, he ordered three boats to be manned with seamen and marines, and ac^ companied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, the other gen- tlemen, and Tupia, proceeded towards the shore ; about fifty of them seemed to wait for their landing, on the opposite side of the river, which ihey thought a sign of fear, and seated themselves upon the ground ; at first therefore, the captain, with only Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia, landed from the little boat, and advanced towards them ; but they had not proceeded many paces before they all started up, and every man produced eitiier a long pike, or a small weapon ol green Talc, extremely well polished, about a foot long, and 108 tlEVTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE* lliick enough to weigh four or five pounds; Tupia called to them in the language of Olaheile ; but they answered only by flourishing iheir weapons, and m»k- ino- sio-ns to them to depart ; a musquet was then fired wide of them, and the ball struck the water, the river being still between them; ih'-y saw the eflfect, and desisted from their threats ; bat the captain thought it prudent to retreat till the marines could be landed Tupia was again directed to speak to ihem. They were willing to trade, and desired that they would come over to them for that purpose ; to this they con- sented, provided they would la) by their arms ; whic?h, however, they coiild by no means be persuaded to do. The English gentlemen then pressed (hem to come over to them, and at last one of them stripped himself, and swam over without his arms^ he was almost imme- diately folkvvved by two more, and soon after by most of the rest, to the number of twenty or thirty ; but these brought their arms with them. They made them all presents of iron and beads ; but ihey seemed to set lit- tle value upon either, pralicularly the iron, not having the least idea of its use ; so that they got nothing in re- turn but a few feathers ; the Inciians offered indeed to exchange their arms for theirs, and, when refused, made many attempts to snatch them out of their hands. Tupia gave them lo understand, that ihey should be obliged to kill them if they o fife red any farther violence. . In a few minutes, l.ovvever, Mr. Green happeniu:^ to turn about, one of them snatched away his hunger, and re- tiring to a little distance, waved ii round his head, with a shout of exultation, the rest now began to be ex- tremely insolent, and more were seen coming to join thera from the opposite side of the river. It was there- LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 105 fore become necessary (o repress them, and Mr. Banks fired at the man who had taken the hanger with small shot, at the distance of about fifteen )ards : when the shot struck him, he ceased his cry ; but instead of re- turning tlie hanger, continued to flourish it over his head, at the same lime slowly retreating to a greater distance, ISIr. Monkhouse seeing this, fired at him with ball, and he Instantly dropped. Upon this the main body, wlio had retired to a rock in the middle of the river upon the first discharge, began to return; two that were near to the man who had been killed, ran up to the body, one seized his weapon of green talc, and the other endea- voured to secure tiie hanger, which Mr. Monkhouse had but just time to prevent. As all that had retired to the rock were now advancing, three pieces were discharg- ed, loaded only with small shot, upon which they swam back for the shore. As they had unhappily experienced that nothing wa-s to be done tvith these people at this place, and finding the water in the river to be salt, they proceeded in the boats round the head of the bay in search of fresh water, and with a design, if possible, to surprise >ome of the natives, and take them on boards where by kind treat- ment and presents they raiglit obtain their friendshipj and thus establish an amicable correspondence with their countrymen. There was, however, no place to land, a dangerous surf every where beating upon the shore ; but they saw ivvo canoes coming iii from ihe sea, one under sail, tmcl the olher woiked wilh paddles. This was thougiit a favourable opportunity to get some of the people into their possession : the captain therefore dis- posed the boats so as most effect uaily to irlcrcepl ihem in their way to the shore. The people in the canoe Ku. 36, K no LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. that was paddled perceived ihem so soon, that by mak- ing to the nearest land wilh their utmost strength they escaped j but the other sailed on till slie was in the niidst of them, without discerning what they were; bat the moment she discovered them,tiie people on board struck their sail, and took to their paddles, which they plied so briskly, that she outran the boat. They were, however, within hearing, and Tupia called out to ihera to come alongside, and promised that they stiiould come to no hurl : they chose, however, rather to trust to their paddles,and continued to make from them with all their power. Tlie captain then ordered a musket lo be fired over their heads, as the least exceptionable exj)edient lo accomplish his design, hoping it would either make them surrender or leap into the water. Upon the discharge of the piece, they cease paddling; and all of them, be- ing seven in number, began to strip, as they imagined to jump overboard; but it happened otherwise. They immediately formed a resolution not to fly, but to fight; and when the boat came up, they began the attack with their paddles, and with stones and other olTensive wea- pons that were in the boat, so vigorously, that they were obliged to fire upon them in their own defence: four were unhappily killed, and the other three, who were boys, the eldest about nineteen, and the youngest about eleven, instantly leaped into the water ; they were, however, taken up and brought on board. The poor wretche.s immediately squatted down, expecting no doubt instant- ly lo be put to death : the captain endeavoured to con- vince them of the contrary, by every method in his pow- er ; they were furnished with clothes, and received every other testimony of kindness that could remove their fears. Before they reached the ship, their suspicions and fears 4 LTEUTENAXT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE, III telng wholly removed, they appeared (o be not only re- conciled (o their situation but in high spirits, and upon being offered some bread when they came on board, ihay devoured it with a voracious appetite. At dinner ihey expressed an inclination to taste every thing they saw; they seemed best pleased with the salt pork, liiough they had other provisions upon the tcble. At sun-set, they eat another meal with great eagernes:?, each devouring a large quantity of bread, and drinking above a (juart of water. They then made them beds upon the lockers, and they went to sleep wiih great seeming content. Their countenances were intelligent and expressive, and the middlemost, who seemed to be about fifteen, had an openness in his aspect, and an ea':e in his deportment, which were very striking : the two eldest were brothers, and their names were Taahourange and Koikerange; the name of the youngest was Maragovete. In the morning of the lOlh they all seemed to be cheerful, and eat another enormous meal; after this they were dressed, and adorned with bracelets, anclets, and necklaces after their own fashion, and the boat being hoisted out, they were told that they were going to set them ashore: this produced a transport of joy; but up- on perceiving that they made towards their first landing place near the river, their countenances changed, and they entreated with great earnestness that they might not be set ashore at that place, because they said it was inhabited by their enemies, who would kill and eat them. Tlii?. was a great disappointment to the captain, because he hoped the report and appearance of the boys would procure to them a favourable reception. He had already sent an officer on shore with the marines and a party of men to cut wood, and he was determined to K 2 112 LIEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOVAOE, land near Ihc j^lace ; not, however, to abandon the boys, if, when lliey got asliore, they sh.ould be uinvilllng to leave them, but to send a boat with tliem in the even- ing in that pari oftlie bay to which they pointed, and which the)' called their home. Upt^n their landing wilh the boys, and crossing the river, they seemed at first to be unwilling to leave them , but at length they suddenly changed t'neir mind, and, though not without a manifest struggle, and some tears, they took their leave: when they were gone, the captain and his friends proceeded alorg a swamp, wilh a design to shoot some ducks, of which ihey saw great plenty. After they had advanced about a mile, these men called out to them, and said, that a large body of (he Indians was in sight, and ad- vancing at a great rate. Upon receiving this intelligence, the Eng ish gentlemen drew together, and resolved to- make liie best of their way to the boats ; they had scarce- ly begun to put this in'o execution, when the three In- dian boys started suddenly from some bushes, wdiere they bad concealed themselves, and again claimed their pro- teciioi : they readily received them, and repairing to l!ie beach as the clearest place, they walked briskly to- wards the boats. While advancing tovvards the pin- nace, one of the boys suddenly cried out, that his uncle was amoiif? the pecple \n h^) had marched down, and de- sired them to stay and talk wilh them : they complied, and a parley immediately commenced between ihem and Tupia; durii.g which the boys held up every thing they bad gr er. them, as tokens of their kindness and libe- rality ; but neither would either of the boys swim over to ihem, nor any of them to tlie boys. At lengtli a single man, unarmed, who. proved to be the uncle of Marago- vete, swam over to them, bringing in his hand a green LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. IIS branch, which they supposed, as well here as at 0(a«' helfe, to be an emblem of peace. They received his branch by the hand* of Tupia, to whom he gave it, and made him many presents ; they also invited him to go on board the ship, but he declined it ; they therefore left him, and expected that his nephew, and the two other young Indians would have staid with him, but to their great surprise, they chose rather to go with our navi- gators. After dinner Tupia asked the boys if they had now any objeclion to go ashore, v^ here they had left their uncle-; they said they had n(jt ; and the boat being or- dered, they went into it with great alacrity : and when the h(r\l, in which two midsiiipmen were sent, came to land, ihey went willingly ashore. On the I Ilh they weighed, and stood away from this unfortunate and inliospiiable place, to which they gave the name of Poveriv Bav. It lies in lat. 38"'4'2. S. and longitude 181" 36' VV. is in the form of an horse shoe, and is known by an island lying close under the north east point. In the afternoon they lay becalmed, which the people on shore perceiving, several canoes put off, and came within less than a quarter of a mile of the vessel; but could not be persuaded to come nearer. Another canoe was now seen coining from Poverty Bay, with only four people on board, one of whom they well remembered to have seen in their first int'-^irview upon the rock. This eanoe, without stopping, or taking the least notice of the others, came directly along-siclc of the ship, and with very Iklle persuasion they got the Indians on board. Their example was soon followed by the rest, and tiiey bad about seven canoes, and about fifty men. Tbeyf K 3 lit LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. made lliem all presents, nolwilhstanding which, they were ao desirous to have more of their commodities, that they sold them every thing they had. About an hour before sun-set the canoes put off from the ship, but by some meaijs or other three of iheir people were left behind: as soon as they discovered it they hailed them, but not one of them would return to take ihem on board ; tl.is greatly surprised ihcm ; but they were surprised still more to observe that the deseiled Indians did not seem at all uneasy at their situation, but entertained them with dancing and singing after their manner, eat their suppers, and went quietly to bed. On the i2(h, a ligiit breeze springing up, they conti" nutd to stand south-west along the shore. Fortunately for the poor Indians, (who were now uneasy on account of the distance thev were from home) two canoes came off about tiiis time, and made towards the ship: they stopped, however, at a litile disiance, and seemed un- willing to trust themselves nearer. The Indians were greatly agitated in 'his state of uncertainty, and urged their countrymen to come alongside of the ship, with the utmost eagerness and impatience. One of the canoes at length ventured to come under the ship's side, and an old man came on board, who seemed to be a chief, from the finery of his garment and the superiority of his wea- pon, which was a paloo |)atoo, made of bone, that, as he said, had belonged to a whale. He staid on board but a short tim<% and when he went away he (0(;k. with him ihc three Indians, very much to. the satisfaction of both parties. On the 19lh they saw groves of trees, which appear- ed high and tapeiing, and bt^ing not above two leagues ft t>m the south- west cod of" a great L)ay, in which they. LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 115 had been coaling for the two preceding days, they hoisted out the pinnace and long-bi-at, to search tor fresh- water; but just as they were aboat to put off, they saw several boats full of people coming from the shore, and therefore did not think it safe to leave the ship. Five of these boats having drawn together, as if to hold a con- saltation, made towards the ship, having on board be- tween eighty and ninety men, and four more followed at some distance, as if to sustain the attack : when the first five came within about a hundred years of the ship they began toeing their war song, and brandishing their pikes, prepared for an engagement. A four-pounder,- . loaded with grape->hot, was discharged wide of them, which produced tlje desired effect; the report, the flash, and, above all, the shot, which spread very far in the water, so intimidated them, that they began ta paddle away with all tlicir might. At eight the next morning several fishing boats came ofTtoliietn, and sold them some slinking fish, which was the best they had : these people behaved very well> and they slicuKl have parted good iriends if it had not been for a large canoe, with two and twenty armed men on board, which came boldly up along-side of the ship. One of them, who had a black skin thrown over him, somewhat resembling that of a bear, was ofl^ered by the captain a piece of red baize for it: he seemed greatly pleased with the bargain, and immediately pull- ed off the skin, and the cioih was handed down to him: upon which, with amazrng coolness, instead of sending up the skin, he began to pack up both that and the fca'ze, whi.jh he had received as the purchase of it, in a ba^ket, without paying the least regard to the captain's dfeiiunU or reraonslrances, and soon after^ with the fish* 116^ LfEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYACC. jng boats, put off from (he sliip. When they were af some dislance, they drew togeiher, and after a short consultation returned ; (he fishermen offered more fish, which, though good for nothing, was purchased, and trade was again renewed. Among others who were placed over the ship's side to hand up what was bought, was little Tayelo, Tupla*s boy ;'and one of the Indians, watching hi,> opportunity, suddenly seized him, and dragged him down into the canoe: two of them held' him down in the fore part of it, and the others, with great activity, paddled her otT, ihe rest of the canoes following as fast as they could; upon this- the maiines, who were under arms upon deck, were ordered to fire. The shot was directed to that part of the cajistcd from the pjrsuit. The ship being brought to, a boat was lowered, and the poor boy taken up unluirt, though so terrified, that for a lime he seemed to be deprived of his senses. In consequence of this transaction,, the captain called I he cape oflf which it happened Cape Kidnappers: it lies in latitude 39" 'k'i', and longitude 182'' 2-i' W. and is rendered remarkable by two white rocks like hay slacks, and the high white cliffs on each side. As soon as Tayeto recovered from his fright, he brought, a fish to Tupia, and told him that he intended' it as aaofiering to. his Ealua, or god, in gratitude tor his- LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 117 escape ; Tiipia commended his plely, and ordered him to throw the fish into the sea, which was accordingly done. About two o'clock in the aflernoon, they passed a small but high white island, lying close to the shore^ upon which they saw many houses, boats, and people. About seven o'cl- pers : from this point the land trends ihree-fourths ol a point more to the westward ; at ten they saw more land open to the southward, and at noon, the southermost land that was insight, bore S. 39^' W. distant eight or ten leagues, and lo a high bluff head, with yellowish cliffs, which bore VV. distant about two miles: the captaii> gave the name of Cape Turnagain, because here they turned back. The land between this cape and Kidnap- pers' Bay is of a very unequal height ; in some places it is lofty next the sea, with white cliifs, in others low, with sandy beaches: the lace of ilie country is not so- well clothed with wood as it is about Havvke's bay, but looks more hke our high downs in England : it is, how- ever, to all appearance, weii inhab:ted. On the ISih, being abreast of tiie peninsula, withi»' Portland island, called Terakako, a canoe came off from that shore, ai.d with much ditiiculty overtook the ship; there were on board five people, two of whom appeared to be chiefs, and the otiier three servants : ihe chiefs, with very little invitation, came on board, and ordered the rest to remain in their cai'.oe. Tl^ev were treated with great kindness, and were not backward in express- ing their satisfaction : they went down into the cabin,, and after a short time, said that they had determined not lis LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. to go on shore lill the next morning. As a proper pre- caution, the captain proposed to take their servants a!>a on board, an(! hoisl their canoe into the ship ; they made no objection, c^nd this was according*, y done. Tlie coun-* tenance of one of these chiefs was o\^er\ and ingenuous : they both examined every thing they saw with great curiosity and attention, and received very (liankfully such little {resents as were made them ; neitlier of tliem, however, could be persuaded either to eat or drink, but their servants devoured every thing they could get with great voracity. These men had heard of tlie kindness and Jiberaii'.y of our navigators to the na- tives who had been on board before, yei I lie confidence they placed in t!)em was thought an extraordinary in- stance of fortitude. On the 19th they passed a remarkable head land, which the captain called Gable-Eud-Foreland, from the very great likeness of the white cliff at the point, to the gable-end of a house. Here three canoes came off to them, and one man came on board; they gave him some trifles, and he soon returned to his boat* On the 20;h, they anchored in a bay about two league* (o the northward of the Foreland. They were invited hither by the people on board many canoes, who point- ed to a p'acc where they said there was plenty of fresh water. In one of them they saw two men, who, by their habits, appeared to be chiefs : one of them was dresssed in a jacket, which was ornamented, after their manner, with dog's skin; the jacket of the other was almost covered with small tufts of red feathers. These men the captain invited on board, and they entered th« ship with very little hesitation: he gave each of them IIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYA' ", 119 about four yards of linen, and a spike nail ; with the former they were very much pleased, but they did not seem to value the nails. In the evening the captain, Mr. Bank?, and Dr. So- lander, went on shore, and were received with great expressions of friendsJii]) by the natives, who behaved with a scrupulous attention not to give offence. Our navigators made them several little presents ; and in their walk round the bay found two small streams ot fresh water. This convenience, and the friendly behaviour of the people, determined the captain to slay and till some of the empty casks. The food of the natives, at this season, consisted of fish, wiih which, instead of bread, they eat the root of a kind of fern, very like that which grows upon our comraon^ in England. These roots they scorch over the fire, and then beat with a slick, lill the bark and dry outside fall off; what remains is a soil substance, somewhat clammy and sweet, not unpleaslng to the taste, but mixed with three or four times its quantity of strings and fibres, which are very disagreeable; these were swallowed by some, but spit out by far the greater mumber. In other seasons they have certainly plenty of excellent vegetables; but no tame animals were seen among them except dogs, which were very small and ugly. There were sweet potatoes planted in small hills, some ranged in rows, and others in quic'inx, all laid by a line with the greatest regu- larity : also coccos, or eddas, planted upon flat land, and the gourds v;ere set In small hotiows, or dishes, much as in England. There appeared to be irom one hundred and fifty lo two hundred acres in cuitivatioii in the whole bay. Each district was fenced in, generally ifO ^.'•-'^UTE^'ANT COOk's FJTST VOYAGE. with reeds', which were placed so close together, that there was scarcely ro^m for a mouse to creep between. The women were plain, ai'd made themselves more so, by painting their faces with red ocre and oil: they VitTC, however, great coquets, and the young ones par- ticularly gay : each of them wore a petticoat, under which there was a girdle, made of the blades of grass, highly perlumed, and to the girdle was fastened, in front, a small bunch of the leaves of some fragrant plant. The faces of the men were not so generally painted.^ In the morning of the '22d they sailed from this bay, which ii called by 'he natives Tegridoo, and which lies in latitude ofoS" lO'S. containing nothing remarkable. The "ivind being contrary, they came to an aix'lior in a bay which lay a little to ihe souihward, in eleven fathom water, with a fine sandy bottom. Many canoes came immecnately off from the shore, snd ail traded very honestly for Olaheiie cloth and glass bottles, of which they were immoderately fond. On the '2+lh, Lieutenant Gore, with a sufficient num- ber of men for both purposes, and the m-irines, were sent to superintend the cutting f)f vvov)d and filling of water. The captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, also went on shore. They met with many houses in the vallies that seemed to be wholly deserted, the people living on the ridges of the hilU in a kind of sheds, very sliglitly built. As they were advancingln ojie of tiiese vallies, liie hills on each side of which were very sleep, they were suddenly struck with tiie sigiii ofti rock, per- forated through its whole substance, so as taform a rude but stupendous^ aich or cavern, opening directly to the sea; this aperture v\ as sever.ty-five feel long, twenty- LIEUTENANT COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 121 seven broad, and five and-forty lilg'n, commanding a view of the bay and tlie hil!s on the other side, which were seen ihrougli it, and, opening at once upon the view, procluced an effect far superior to any of the con- trivances of art. As they were returning to the w-ater- ing-place in the evening, they met an old man, who detained them some time by shewing them the mililanv; exercises of the country, with the iance and paloo-pa- loo, which are all the weapons in use. Tlie lance is from ten to fourteen feet long, made of a very hard wood, and sharp at both ends : the patoo-patoo i.* about a foot long, made of talc, or bone, with sharp edges, and used as a battle-axe. A post, or slake, v^as set up as his enemy, to which he advanced with a most furious aspect, brandishing his lance, which he grasped with grea? firmness; when it was supposed to have been pierced by his lance, he ran at it with his patoo-patoo^ and falling upon the upper end of it, which was to re- present his adversary's head, he laia on with great ve- hemence, striking many blows, any one of which would probably have split the skull of an ox. The Indians, at the waterin^'-place, entertained them with their war-song, on the 27th, in which the women joined, with the most horrid distortions of countenance, rolling their eyes, tluusting out their tongues, and often heaving loud and deep sighs; though all was done iii very good time. The next day our adventurers went ashore upon an island that lies to the left hand of the entrance of the bay, where th'^y saw a large canoe, sixty-eight feet and a half long, five broad, and three feet high; she had a sharp bottom, consisting of three trunks of hollowed trees, of which that in the middle was the longest: the NO, 36. L 122 LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. side planks were sixty-two feel long in one piece, and were not despicably carved in bas-relief; the head also was adorned with carving still more richly. Upon this island there was a larger house than any they had yet seen; but it seemed unfinished, and was full of chips. The wood work was squared so even and smooth, that it was evident they had some very sharp tools. The sides of the posts were carved in a masterly st}le, though after their whimsical taste, which seems to prefer spiral lines and distorted faces. Having got on board wood and water, and a large supply of excellent celery, with which the country a- bounds, and which proved a powerful antiscorbutic, they unmoored and put to sea on the '29th. Tolaga bay is moderately large, and has from seen to thirteen fa- thom, with a clear sandy bottom and good anchorage ; and is sheltered from all winds except the north east. They got nothing here by traffic but a few fish and some sweet potatoes, except a few trifles, which they consi- dered merely as curiosities. They saw no four-fooled animals, either tame or wild, except dogs and rats, and these were very scarce : the people eat the dogs, like those at Otaheite ; and adorn their garments with the skins. In the w oods they found trees of above twenty different sorts. The country abounds with plants, and the woods with a variety of birds, exquisitely beautiful. The soil both of the hills and the vallies is light and sandy, and very fit lor ihe production of all kinds oi roots ; though we saw none, except sweet potatoes and yams. Having made sail again lo the northward, on l!ie 30lh, they hauled round a small island which lay east one mile from the north-east point of the land: this point 5 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 123 being the eastermosl land on the whole coast, the cap- lain gave it the name of East Cape, and he called the island that lies off it East Island ; it is of a small circuit, high and round, and appears while and barren ; the cape is high, with white cliffs, and lies in latitude 37« 4-2' 30" S. and longitude I8I0 W. When about four leagues to the westward of East Cape they passed a bay, which was first discovered by Lieutenant Hicks, and which was therefore called Hick's Bay. On the 3 1st, about nine, no less than five canoes came off, in which were more than forty men, all armed vviin their country pikes and battle-axes, shouting, and threat- ening an attack. When one of these canoes had almo>t reached the ship, another, of an immense size, crowd- ed with people, who were ^Iso armed, put off from the shore, and came up at a great rate : as it approached it received signals from the canoe that was nearest to the ship ; it liad sixteen paddle-s on a side, beside people that sat, and others that stood in a row, from stem to stern, being in all about si>:ty men : as they made directly to the ship, a gun was fired, loaded with grape-sljot, a head of them: this made them slop, but not rcireat; a round shot was then fired over them, and, upon seeing it fal', they seized their paddles and made towards the shore wiih great precipitation. In the evening three or four canoes came off unarmed, but they would not venture within a musket shot of the vessel. This cape was calU ed, from the hasty retreat of the enemy. Cape Run- away. November 1. No less than forty-five canoes came from the shore towards the ship; seven of them, after some conversation with Tupia, sold them some lobsters and muscles, and two conger eels. They passed this L 2 i2t LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. night under a small high island, lying four miles from a Iiigh round head upon ihe main, which the captain call- ed the Mayor. In the morning of the 3d, a cluster of small islands and rock-; bore N. i E. distant one league, to which he gave ihe name of the Court of Aldermen. As far as they had yet coa<;tcd (his country from Cape Turnagain. the peo- ple acknowledged one chief, whom (hey called Teratu. About one o'clock three canoes came off from the main, with one and twenty men on board. The construction of these vessels appeared to be more sim- ple than that of any they had seen, they being nothing more than trunks of a singletree hollowed by lire, with- out any convenience or ornament. The people on board were almost naked, and appeared to be of a browner complexion ; yet, naked and despicable as they were, they sung their song of defiance, and threw several stones and two lances into the ship : they were, however, dispersed by a musket. The next morning, at day-break, no less' than twelve ca- noes came, with about a hundred and fitly men, all armed -with pikes, lai>ces, and stones. Tupia was ordered to expostulate with them, and if possible to divert Iheni from their hostile purposes; during the conversation they appeared to be sometimes friendly and sometimes otherwise ; at length, however, they began to trade, and sold two of their weapons very fairly, but having re- ceived what had been agreed upon for the purchase of a third, they refused to send it up, but offered it for a second price; a second was sent down, but the weapon was still detained, and a demand made of a third ; this being refused with some expressions of displeasure and resentment, the offender, vviih many ludicrous tokens LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 125 of contempt and defiance, paddled his canoe off a few yards from the ship. As the captain intended to conti- nue in this place five or six days, in order to make an observation oi the transit of Mercury, it was absolutely necessary, in order to prevent further mischief, to pu- nish these people for their knavery ; some small shot were therefore fired at the thief, and a musket ball through the bottom of his boat: upon this it was paddled to about a hundred yards distance, and the people in the other canoes took not the least notice of their wounded companion, though he bled very much, but returned to the ship, and continued to trade with the most perfect indifference and unconcern. They sold us many more of their weapons, without making any other aitempt to dcifraud for a considerable time ; at last, however, one of them thought fit to paddle away w'ah two different pieces of cloth, which had been given for the same weapon ; when he had got about an hundred yards dis- tance, and thought himself secure of his prize, a musket was fired after him, which fortunately struck the boat just at the water's edge, and made two holes in her side; this only incited them to ply their paddles with greater activity, and the reing to go into less, as it was tide of flood, and the wind blew right up the inlet, they came to an anchor about the middle of the channel. Early on the 20 h, the captain set out in the pinnace and long-boat, accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solan- der, and Tupia, and found the inlet in a river, about nine miles above the ship; into this river they entered with the first of the flood, and within three miles found the water perfectly fresh. Before they had proceeded more than one-third of that distance, they found an In- dian town, which was built upon a small bank of dry Hand, but entirely surrounded by a deep, which pos>ibly the inhabitants might consider as a defence. These people, as soon as I hey saw them, thronged to the banks, and invited them on shore. They accepted the invitation, and met with a kind reception. They prr- ceeded up the river till near noon, and landed on the west side, to take a view of the lofty trees which every where adorned its banks. Before they had walked an hundred yards into the wood, ihey met with one of them which was nineteen feet eight inches in the girt, at the height of six leet above the ground; -its height wj. 37. M 134 LIEUTENANT COdK*S FIRST VOVAGE. from the root lo the first branch was found to be eighty- nine feel ; it was as straight as an arrow, and tapered but very little in proportion to its height. As they ad- vanced they saw many others that were still larger. About three o'clock they re-embarked, in order to return with the first of the ebb, and named the river (he Thames, it having some resemblance to our own river of that name. On the 22d, the captain and some of his friends went in the pinnace to the western shore, but saw nothing worthy of notice. When they left the ship, many ca- noes were about it ; Mr. Banks, therefore, chose to slay on board, and traffic wiih the natives: they bartered their clothes and arms, chiefly for paper, and behaved ■wiih great friendship and honesty. Bat while «ome of them were below with Mr. Banks, a young man whe was upon the deck stole a half-minute glass, which was in the binacle, and was detected just as he wascarrying it off. Mr. Hicks, who was commanding officer on board, took it into his head to punish him, by giving him twelve lashes with a cat o'nine-lailsi and accordingly ordered him to be taken to the gang-way., and tied up to the shrouds When the other Indians who were on board saw hrm seized, they attempted to rescue him i and being resisted, called for their arms, which were handed up from the canoes, and the people of one of tiiem attempted locome up the ship's side. The tumult was heard by Mr. Banks, who, with Tupia, came hastily upon the deck lo see what had happened. The Indians immediately ran to Tupia, who, finding Mr. Hicks inexorable, could only assure them, that nothing was intended against the life of their companion, but that it was necessary he should suffer some punishment 1^ V. J. ^. LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYaCK. H6 for his oflfence, which being explained to them, they seemed to be satisfied"; The punishment was then in-^ flicled, and as soon as the criminal was unbound, an old m^n among the spectators, who was supposed to be his father,, gave him a hearty healing, and sent him down into his canoe. They were afraid to come anj more near the ship; after much persuasion, however, they ventured back again, but their cheerful confidence was at an end, and their slay was short ; they promised, indeed, at their departure, la reiurn with some fish, but they saw no more of them. On the 23d, the wind being contrary, they kept ply- ing down the river, and the next day were abreast of a point of land, which the captain called Pomt Rodney. A promontory which they passed, when they entered the bay,. was called Cape Colville; it rises directly from the sea, to a considerable height, and is remarkable for a lofty rock, which stands to the pilch of the point, and; may be di«Jtinguished at av^ry great distance. When they anchored they tried their lines, and in a short time caught near one hundred.fish, which the people called sea-bream; they weighed from six to eight pounds a piece, and consequently would supply the whole ship's company with food for two days. From the success of their lines here, they called the place Bream Bay ; the north head of which is high land, and remarkable for several pointed rocks,, which stand in a range upon the top of it :. it may also be known by some small islands which lie before it, caJled the Hen and Chickens, one of which is hij^h, and terminates in two peaks. The land between Point Rodney and Bream Head, an extent ttf ten leagues, is low, and wooded in lufls^ vNit»h white M 2 156 LIETTEJirANT COOK'S FTllST VOYASI. sand-banks between the sea and ihtj firm land. They saw no inhabitants, but many fires in the night. On the i?5lh, they saw some small islands, which l\'ere called the Poor Knights, The counir)' appeared low, but well covered with wood : they saw some strag- gling houses, three or four fortified towns, and near ihem a large quantity of cultivated land. On the 'i6th, they proceeded slowly to the north- ward, al(»ng the shore. Between six and seven o'clock two canoes came off: the people came onboard, and traded very quietly and honestly for whatever they had ; soon allerwards two canoes came oil from a more distant part of the shore; these were of a much larger ,xi3ie, and full of people: when they came near, they called off the other canoes which were alongside of the ship, and after a short conference they all came up to- gether. The strangers appeared to be persons of a su- perior rank ; their canoes were well carved with many ©rnamenis, and they had with ihem a great variety of weapons: tht*y had patoo-patoos, both of stone and whalebone, upon which they appeared lo set a great value; they had also ribs of whale, carved and adorned with tufis of dog*s hair. Tlieir convj^lexions were browner than those of the people to the southward, and iheir bodies and laces were more marked with the black stains which they call amoco: they had a broad spiral on each buttock ; and the thighs of many of them were almost entirely black, some narrow lines only being left untouched, so that at first sight they appeared to wear striped breeches. Tliis day they passed a remarkable point of land, lo which the captain gave the name of Cape Bret. The' LlEUTEfTANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 157 land of this cape is considerably higher than any part of the adjacent coast, at the point of it is a high round hillock, and N. E. by N. at the dr^'tance of about a mile, is a small high island, or rork, uhicl) was perfo- rated quite through, so as to appear like the arcli of a bridge. This cape, or at least sonre part of it, is by the natives called Motugogogo, and it lies in latitude 35^ 10' 30^' S. longitude 185o 25' W. On the we^t side of it is a large and pretty deep bay, lying in S. W. by W. in which there appeared to be several small islands; the point that forms the N*. W. entrance, and which lies W. | N» at the distance of three or four leagues from Cape Br^t, the captain called Pdint Po- cocke. On the west side of the bay thiey saw several villages, both upon islands and the main, and several very large canoes came off to them, full of people; they were alt stout and well made ; their hair, which was black,. was tied up in a bunch on the crown of their heads, and stuck wilh white feathers. In each of the canoes were two or three chiefs, whose habits were of the be*e very action of throwing it into the ship ; they did not, how- ever, desist, till some others had been wounded, and then they stood off to sea. The wind being directly against them, they kept ply- ing to windward till the 2yth, when they had ratl>er lost than gained ground ; they therefore bore up for a bay which lies to the westward of Cape Bret, and an- chored under the south-west side of one of the many islands which line it on the south-east, in four fathom and a half water. The natives, to the number of near four hundred, crouded upon them in their canoes, and some of them were admitted on board ; to one, who seemed to be a chief, the captain gave a piece of broad cloth, and dis- tributed some trifling presents among the rest. Aware of the power of their fire-arms, they traded for some time very fairly, but the people in one of the canoes took the opportunity of their being at dinner to tow away their buoy: a muskei was fired over them, without effect ; tSey then endeavoured to reach them with some small shot, but they were too far off; by this time they had got the buoy into their canoe, and a irusket was conse- quent!)' fired at them with ball, wjjich hit one of them> and they immediately threw the buoy overboard. Tiie captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, went with the pinnace and yav>l, manned and armed, and landed upon the island. While in a little cove, they were surrounded by two or three hundred people, jome rushing from behind the head of the cove^ and o:herx appearing on the tops of the hills; they. were all armed, but they came on in so confused and straggling a man* LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. 139 ner, that no harm was apprehended, and the English gentlemen were determined that hostilities should not begin on their part. They marched towards them, and then drew a line upon the sand between both parties, which they gave them to understand they were not to pass; at first they continued quiet, but their weapons were held ready to strike, and ihey seemed to be rather irresolute than peaceable. At length another party of Indians came up, and now growing more bold as their number increased, they began the dance and song ; still, however, they delayed the attack, but a party ran to each of the boats, and attempted to draw them on shore; this seemed to be the signal, for the people about the genilemen at the same time began to press in upon their line: their situation was now become too critical for them to remain longer inactive; the captain, therefore, discharged his musket, which was loaded with small shot, at one of the forvNardest, and Mr. Banks and two of the men fired immediately afterwards: this made them fall back in some confusion, but one of the chiefs, who was at the distance of about twenty yards, rallied them, and running forward, waving his patoo-patoo, and calling loudly to his companions, led ihem to the charge. Dr. Solander, (whose piece was not yet discharged), fired at this chnmpion, who stop- ped short upon feeling the shot, and then ran away with the rest : they did not, however, di- perse, but got to- gether upon a rising ground, and seemed only to want some leader of resolution to renew the attack. As they were now be)ond the reach of small ishot, the gentle- men fired with ball, but as none of them took place, they still contiiMied in a body; in the mean lime the ship 140 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. (from whence a much greater number of Indians were seen than could be discovered by the gentlemen on shore), brought her broad-side to bear, and entirely dispersed them, by firing a few shot over their heads. In this skirmish only two of the Indians were hurt with the small shot, and not a single life was lost. Being now in quiet possession of their cove, the gentlemen laid down their arms, and began to gather celery, which grew here in great plenty: but recollecting to have seen some of the people hide themselves in a cave of ©ne of the rocks, they therefore went towards the place, when an; old Indian, who proved to be the chief the captain had presented with a piece of broal cloth in the morning, came out with his wife and iiis brother, and in a supplicating posture put themselves under their protection. The old man told them he had another brother, who was one of those that had been wounded by the small shot, and inquired wiih much solicitude and concern if he would die. They assured him that- he would not, and at the same time put into his hand both a musket bail and some small shot, teliing him, that those only who were wounded with the bail would die, and that the others would recover; at the same time assuring him, that if ihey were attacked again, they should certainly defend themselves with the ball. Those Indians came and sat down by them, and, as tokens o( their perfect amity, (hey made them presents . of such trifles as they happened to have about them.. Soon after they embarked in their boats, and having rowed lo another cove in the same i'^land, climbed a neighbouring hill, whii h commandfd the country to a considerable distance. One of the towns was very near. irEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE, 141 from which many of the Indians advanced, taking great pains to shew ihem that they were not unarmed, and in their gestures and countenances expressing great meek- ness and humility. In this bay they were uelained by contrary winds and calms several days, during which time their intercourse with the natives was continued in the most peaceable and friendly manner, they being frequently about the ship, and the English aNhore, both upon the islands and the main. In one of their visits to the continent, an old man shewed them the instrument they use in staining their bodies which exactly resembled those that were employed for the same purpose at Oiaheite. Having one day landed in a very distant part ol the bay, the people imn>edialely fled, except one old man, who accompanied them wherever they went, and seemed much pleased with the little presents they made him. They came at last to a liille fort, built upon a small rock, which at high water was surrounded by the sea, and accessible only by a ladder : they perceived that he eyed them with a kind of restless solicitude as they ap» proached it, and upon their expressing a desire to enter it, he told them that his wife was there: he saw that their curiosity was not diminished by this intelligence, and," after some hesitation, he said, if they would pro- mise to offer no indecency, he would accompany them : their promise was readily given, and he immediately led the way. The ladder consisted of steps fastened to a pole, but they found the ascent both difficult and dan- gerous. When they entered they beheld three women, who, the moment they saw them, burst into tears of terror and surprise: some kind words and a few pre- 142 LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. sents, soon removed their apprehensions, and put them into good humour. They examined iheir old friend's house and two others, which were all that the fortifica- tions contained, and having distributed a few more pre- sents, they parted with mutual satisfaction. Early on the 5th, they weighed wiih a light breeze, but it being variable with frequent calms, made little way. They kept turning out of the bay till the after- noon, and about ten o'clock were suddenly becalmed, so that the ship would neither wear nor stay, nnd the tide or current setting strong, she drove towards land so fast, that before any measures could be taken for her se- curity she was within a cable's length of the breakers. The pinnace was immediately hoisted out to take the ship in tow, jnd the men, sensible of their danger, ex- erted themselves to the utmost, and a faint breeze springing up off the land, they perceived with unspeak- able joy that she made head vva), after having been so- near the shore, that Tupia, who was not sensible of^ their danger, was at this very time conversing with the people upon the beach, whose voices were distinctly heard, notwithstanding the roar of the breakers. They now thought all danger was over, but about an hour afterwards, just as the mao in the chains had cried *' seventeen fathom," the ship struck. The shock threw them all into the utmost consternation ; Mr. Banks, who had undressed III mself, and was stepping into bed, ran hastily up to the deck, and the man in the chains called out, " five fathom ;" by tlils time the rock on which they had struck being to windward, the ship went offi without having received the least damage, and the wa- ter very' soon deepeaed to twenty fathom. ' LIEUTENANT COOk's FfRST VOYAUE. i 4-S This bay the captain named the Bay of Islands, from 4he great number of islands which line its shores, and from several harbours equally safe and commodious, where there is room and depth for any number of ship- ping. That in wluch they lay is on the south west side of the soulii westermost island, called Maturaro, on the •«outh-easl side of the bay. On the 7lh, several canoes put ofFar>d followed lhem» but a light- breeze springrng up, they did not chuse to wait for them. On the 9th, they were pretty well in with the land, :seven leagues to the westward of the Cavalles, where .ing off the south-west end of it, and another lying off the north-east end, which were discovered by Tasman, and called the Three King"*. On the 27th it blew a storm, and they were obliged to bring the ship to under iier main-sail. At noon the gale was somewhat abated, but they had still heavjr squalls. On the 3 )lh, they saw land, bearing N. E. distant about six leagues, which corresponded with the account that had been given of it by the Indians. January 1, 1770, they tacked and stood to the east- ward; on the 3d they saw land again, bearing N. W. It appeared to be high, and at noon extended trom N. to E. N. E. distant by estimation eight or ten leagues. On the 9th they continued a south-east course till eight o'clock in the evening, having run seven leagut« since noon, with the wind at N. N. E. and E. and be- ing within three or four leagues of land, which appeared to be low and sardy. They then steered S. E. by S. in a direction parallel with the coast, having from forty-eight to thirty-four fathom water, with a black sandy bottom. At day-break the next morning, they found themselves between two and three leagues from land, which began to have a better appearance, rising 1 I.TEOTEfTANT €OC>K*S FTRST VDVAGE. 145 tn g^tle slopes, and being covered with trees and •herbage. Tliey saw a smoke and a few houses, but it appeared to be thiniy inhabited. At nine they were a- breast oFa point which rises with an easy ascent from the jseato a con>Mderable height : this point was named Woody •Head. About eleven miles from this head, in the dl'- lection of S. VV. ^ W. lies a very small island, upon which they saw a great number of gannets, and which was therefore called Gannet Island -\t noon, a high craggy point bore E. N. E. distant about a league and a half, to which the captain gave the nameof Albetross Point: when this point bore N. E. distant near two leagues, the soulhermost land in sight bore S. S. W. -| W, being a very high mountain, and in appearance greatly resembling the Peakof Tenerifie. On the ISih they saw, for a few minutes, its summit, towering above the clouds, and covered with snow. If row boreN. E. latitude 3So 16' S. longitude 185^ 15,' W. and was called Mount Egmont. It seems to have a large base, and to rise with a gradual ascent; it lies near the sea, and is surrounded by a flat country, of a j^leasant appearance, being clothed with verdure and wood, which renders it the more conspicuous, and the shore under it forms a large cape, which Captain Cook ramed Cape Egmont. It lies S. S. W. | W. twenty-seven leagues distant from Albetross Point, and on the north side of it are two small islands, which lie near a remark- able point on the main that rises to a considerable height in the form of a sugar-loaf. To the southward of the cape the land trends S. E. by E. and S. S. E. and eeems to be every where a bold shore. The shore at this place seemed to form several bay^^ into one of which the captain proposed to carry the ^o. 37. N 146 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOVAGE, ship, which was become very foul, in order to careen her, and at the same time to repair some defects, and re- cruit our wood and water. Accordingly he stood lor an inlet which runs in S. W. and on the 15th got within the entrance. They were carried by the tide, or cur- Tent within two cables' length of the north-west slK)re, where they had fifty-four fathom water, but by the help of their boats they got clear. Just at this time ihey saw ■a sea-iiuii r;«o iwice near the shore. They also saw some of the natives in a canoe cross the bay, and a village situated upon the point of an island, which lies seven or eight miles within the entrance. Tiiey an- chored in a very safe and convenient cove, on the north-west side of the bay, and facing the south-west end of the island, in eleven fathom water, with soft ground. They were about four long cannon shot dis- tant from the village, or heppah, from which four ca- noes were immediately dispatched. The men were all well armed ; two corners of the cloth which Ihey wrap- ped round the body were passed over the shoulders from behind, and being brought down to the upper edge of it before, were made fast to it just under the breast; but few, or none, had feathers in their hair. They rowed round the ship several limes, v/ith their usual tokens of menace and defiance, and at last began the 'assault by throwing some stones: Tupia expostulated with them, and at length a very old man in one of the boats expressed a desire of coming on board. A rope was accordingly thrown into his canoe, and she was immediately alongside of the ship; the old man rose up, and -prepared to come up the ship's side, upon which all the rest expostulated wilh great vth.emence against the attempt, and at last laid hold of him, and held hiei LIEUTENANT COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 117 back: he adhered, however, to his purpose, with a cahn but steady perseverance, and having at length dis- engaged himself, he came on board. He was received wUh all possible expressions oP friendship and kindness, and after some time dismissed, with many presents to his companions. Soon afier the captain went on shore, with most of the gentlemen, at the bottom of the cove, abreast of the ship. They found a iine stream of excel* k-nt water, and wood in the greatest plenty. For the land here was one forest, of vast extent. They also caught near three hundred weight of fish, of different sorts, which was equally distributed among the ship's company. On the IClh, while they were busy in careening the ship, three canoes came off lo them, having on board above a hundred men, besides several of their women^ which they were pleased to see, as in general it is a sign of peace J but they soon afterwards became very troublesome, and gave them reason to apprehend som» mischief. While in this situation^ the long-boat was sent ashore with some water-casks, and some of the ca* noes attempting to follow her, they found it necessary to intimidate them, by firing some small shot ; this hacJ its desired effect, and they desisted from the pursuit- They had some fish in therr canoes, which Ihev now of- fered to sell, and which, though ii slurey sold it with great reluctance, and could not by any means be prevailed upon to part with a second. Tiiis day the gentlemen made another excursion in the pin- r.ace, to survey the bay, but tbey found not the leai^t .jipeararKe of cultt-vation ; however, they discovered a excellent hat^bour, and in the evening returned on :. ;urd the ship. On the '2zd they saw an old vilbge, in which there :vcrc many houses, that seemed to have been long, de- k3 150 tlEt^TENAKT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. serted : they also saw another village which was in- habited. On ihe 24th they visited their friends at the Heppah or village on the point of (lie island near the ship's sta- tion, who had come off to them on their /irsl arrival in the bay. They received them with the utmost confi- dence and civility, shewing them every part of their habitations, which were commodious and neat. They also brought out several human bones, the flesh of \% hich ihey had eaten, and offered them for sale ; they were |)urchased as memorials of the horrid practice which many, notwithstanding the reports of travellers, have •professed not to believe. In one part of this village was observed, not without some surprise, a cross exactly like that of a crucifix ; it was adorned with feathers, and upon their enquiring for what purpose it had been set up, they were told that it was a monument for a man ■who Was dead: they had before understood that tlieir dead were not buried, but thrown into the sea ; but on their inquiry how the body of the man had been dis- posed of, to whose memory this cross had been erected, they refused to answer. On the 251h the gentlemen made another excursion along the coast, in the pinnace, towards the mouth of the inlet, and going on shore at a little cove, to slioot shaggs, they fell in with a large family of Indian r, whose custom it h to di<;perse themselves among the different creeks and coves, where fish is to be procured in the greatest plenty, leaving a few only in the Heppah, to •which the rest repair in times of danger. Some of these people came out a good way to meet them, and gave them an invitation to go with them to the rest of their party, which they readily accepted. They found » LIEUTEiNANT COOk's FiRST VOYAGE,- iSt <»ompany of about thirty, men, women, and chilJren,- who received them with all possible demonstrations of friendship : ihey distributed among them a few ribbands and beads, and in retum, received the kisses and em- braces of both sexes, both young and old : they gave l!iem also some fish, aiid after a little time they returned, much pleased with their new' acquaintance. On the SOlh two posts were left as memorials of our navigators having visited this place; they were inscribed with the ship's name, and the year and month; one of Ihem was set up at the watering place, hoisting the Union-flag upon the top of it : and the other was carried over to the island that lies nearest to the sea, called by the natives Motnara. The natives having been told tbat they were set up as a mark upon the island, in or- der to show to any other ship which should happen to come thither, that they had been there before, promised that they never would pull them down : The captain then gave this inlet the name of Queen Charlotla's Sound, at the same time taking formal possession of this and the adjacent country, in the name and for the use of hjs Majesty King George the Third. On the 6th ot February they again got under sail, but the wind proving variable, they reached no farther thaa just without Moluara; in the afternoon, however, a more steady gale at N. by W, set them clear of the Sound. The entrance of Queen Charlotte's sound is situated in latitude 41° S. longitude iSt'^ 45' W. and near the middle of the south-west side of the slreight in which it lies. The land about it is of Fuch a height that it was seen at the distance of twenty leagues ; it consists wholly of high hills aud deep vallie?, v/ell stored with a variety 152 LIEUTENANT CCOK*S FIRST VOYAOE. of excellent timber, fit for all purposes except masfs, for which it is too hard and heavy. The sea abounds with avariety oF fisl). The number of inhabitants scarcely exceeds four hundred, and they live dispersed along tlie shores, wiiere their food, consisting of fish and lern roots, is most easily procured. As soon as ihey got out of the sound, Ihey stood over to the eastward, in order to get the streight well open before the tide of ebb came on. At seven in the even- iRg, the two small islands which lie off Cape Koamaroo, the south-east head of Queen Charlotte's Sound, bore east, distant about four miles: at this time it was nearly calm, and the tide of ebb setting out, they were, in a very short time, carried by the rapidity of the stream close upon one of the islands, which v.as a rock rising almost perpendicularly out of the sea: they perceived' their danger increase every moment, and had but one ■ expedient to prevent their being dashed to pieces, the' success of which a few minutes wx)i'ild determine. They were nowvvi-ti>in little more than a cable's length of the rock, and had more than seventy-five fathom water; but upon dropping an anchor, and veering about one^ hundred and Htty fathom of cable, the ship was happily brought u[). In this situation, they were not above Iwa cable's length from the rocks; and here they remained in the strength of the tide, which set to the S. E. affrer- the rate of at least five miles an hour, from a little after- seven till near midnight, when the tide abated, and they- began to heave. By three in the morning of the Ttlv- tiie anchor was at the bows, and having a light breeze* at N. W. they made sail for the eastern shore ; but the- tide being against then\ they made but little way: the wind however afterwards freshened^ and carae to N» tlEUTENANT cook's FIRST VOYAGE. lS3 and N. E. with which, and the tide of ebb, they were in a short time hurried through the narrowest part of the strcighf, and then stood away for the southermoNt land they had in sight, which bore S. by W. Over this land appeared a mountain of stupendous height, which was covered with snow. On the S(h they were abreast of Cape Palliser, and found ihe land trend away N. E. towards Cape Turn- again. In the afternoon, three canoes came up to the ship with between thirty and forty people on board, who had been puiling after them with great labour and per- severance for some time; they appeared to be more tleanly, and a belter class^ than any they h^ met vvitii sitice tiiey left the Bay of Idands, and their carttjcs were also distinguished by the same ornaments which they had seen upon the northerly part of the coast* They cam« on board with very little invitation; and their behaviour was courteous and friendly : upon receiving presents, they made pre^nts in return, which had not been done by any of the natives that they had seen before. After a short \\n\e, they went away, much gratified with their reception, and our navigators pursued their course along the sliore to the N. E. lili eleven o'clock the next morn- ing, when the weather happening to clear up, they saw Cape Turnagain, bearing E. by N. | E. at die distance of about seven leagues. They continued to make sail to the southward till sun- set on the ilth, when a fresh breeze at N. E. had car- ried them back again the length of Cape Palliser, of which, as the weather was clear, they had a good view* It is of a height sufficient to be seen in clear weather at the distance of twelve or fourteen leagues, and the land b of a broken and hilly surjape. Between the fooX o£ lot LTtlTTENANT COOK*S FfRST VoVAGE; the high land and the sea there, is a low flat border, off \vhich there are some rocks tlmt appear above water. Between this Cape and Cape Turnagain, the land near the shore is, in many places, low and fiat, and has a green and pleasant appearance ; jiit farther from the- sea it rises into hills. The land between Cape Palliser and Cape Tierawitte is high and mokes in table-points; it also seemed to form two bays. In the afternoon of the 1 4ih, when Mr, Banks wa» out in the boat a shooting, they saw with their glasses, four double canoes, having on board filly-seven men, put off from the shore, and make towards him : they immediately made signals for him to come on board ; but the ship, with respect to him, being right in the wake of the sun, he did not see them. They were at a consider able distance frbm the shore, and he was at a consid able distante from the ship, which was between Inn the shore; so that, it being a dead calm, the capta began to be in some pain for him, fearing that he might not see the canoes time enough to reach the ship before they should get up with him : soon after, however, they saw his boat in mofion, and had tlie plea?ure to take him on board before (he Indians came u^, wlio probably had not seen him, as their attention seemed wholly to be fixed uj)on (he ship. Tiiey came within about a- stone's cast, and then stopped, gazing with a look of va- cant as(onishment : Tupia exer{ed all his eloquence lo prevail upon them to come nearer, but without any ef- iedl. After surveying ihem for some lime, they left them, and made towards the shore. From the behaviour of these visitors, the captain gave the land from which they had put of]', and which had (he pppearaiice of an idand, the name of Lookerson. At eig'it o'clock in the eveii- i.ieute>:ant cootc's first voyage. 155 ing, a breeze sprung up at S. S. \V. with which they stretched off south-east, because some on board thought ihey saw land in that quarter. In this course they con- tinued till six o'clock the next morning, when they had run eleven leagues but saw no land, except (hat which they had left. At day-break on the J 6th they discovered land bearing S. by W. and seemingly detached from the coast they were upon. A breeze sprung up at N. E. and they steered directly for it. In the afternoon, they stood to the southward of it, with a fresh breeze at north. Early the next morning, their opinion that the land they had been standing for was an island, was confirmed, by see- ing part of the land of Tovy Poenammoo open to the westward of it, extending as tar as W. by S. This inland, which the captain named after Mr. Banks, lies about five leagues from the coast of Tovy Poenammoo: it is of a circular figure, and about twenty-tour leagues in compass : it is sufficiently high to be seen at the dis- tance of twelve or fifteen leagues, and the land has a broken irregular surface, with the appearance rather of barrenness than fertility ; yet it was inhabited, for they saw smoke in one place, and a few straggling natives in another. On the 9th, having run twenty-eight leagues upon a a W. by N. ^ N. course, and judging themselves to be to the westward of the land of Tovy Poenammoo, they bore away N. W. with a fresh gale at south. Having run eleven miles upon this course, they saw land extend- ing from the S. W. to the N. W. at the distance of about ten leagues, which they hauled up for. A head sea prevented them from making much way to the southward; at seven in the evening the extremes of the 156 LIEU'TENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. land stretched from S. W. by S. to N. by W. ; and at six leagues from (he shore they had thirly-lwo falhcm water. Early the next morning they stood in for the ^hore W. by S. and during a course of four league^, their depth of water was from thirty-two to thirteen fa* torn. When it was thirteen fathom they were but three miles distant from the shore, and therefore stood off. The surface, to the distance of about five miles from the sea, is low and flat ; but it then ri^es into hills of a con- siderable heigiu. Il appeared to be totally barren, and thev saw no signs of its being inhabited. During the last twenty-four hours, though they carried as much sail as the ship would bear, they were driven three leagues to the leeward. At sun-set, on the 2'2d, the weather, which had been hazy, clearing up, they saw a mountain which rose in a high peak, bearing N. W. by N. ; and at the same time, Ihey saw the land more distinctly than before, extending from N. to S. W. by S. which, at some distance within the coast, had a lofty and mountainous appearance. On the 23d, having a hollow swell from the S. E- and expecting wind from the same quarter, we kept plying between seven and fifteen leagues from the shore, hav- ing from seventy to forty-four fathom. From noon to six in the evening it was calm , but a light breeze then springing up, at E. N. E. they steered S. S, E. all night, edging off from the land, the hollow swell still conti- nuing ; tlieir deplh of water was from sixty to seventy- five fathom. Wh-le they were becalmed, Mr. Banks, being out in the boat, shot two Port Egmont hens, which were in every respect the same as those that are found in great numbers upon the island of Faro, and were the lirst of the kind ihey had seen upon this coast, though LltUTENANt cook's IIRST VOi'AGE. 137 they fell in with some a few days before they made iand. In the rooming of ihe 24-th they saw the land ex- tending as far as S. W. by S. and steered directly for i(. The weather was so hazy that they could see nothing distinctly upon it, (though not far distant from it) except a ridge of high hills lying not far from the sea, and pa- rallel to the coast, which in this place stretches S. by W. and N. by E. and seemed to end in a high bluff point to the southward. In tlie evening they were abreast of this point ; but it being then dark, they brought to for the night. Early the next morning, having made sail, the point bore north, distant three leagues, and they now found that the land trended from it S. W. by W. as far a<; they •ould see. This point was named Cape Saunders : there is, about three or four leagues to the south-west of ft, and very near the shore, a remarkable sadcile-hill ; and from one league to four leagues north of it, the shore forms two or ihree bays, in which there appeared to be good anchorage, and effectual shelter from the S. W, we^lerly, and N. westerly wind*. They had variable winds and calms- till five o'clock in the evening, when it fixed at VV. S. W. and soon blew so hard thai it put them pa«t their topsail^, and split the foresail all to pieces : after getting anotJier to the yard, they continued to stand to the southward under two courses. Tlie gale continued the next day, with heavy squalls and a large hollow sea. On the first of March, seeing no ap- pearance of land, they tacked and stood to the north- ward, having a large swell from tlie S. W. by W. On the 4th they saw some whales and seals, as the? had (lone several limcB after their hatving passed the NO. 37. Q 158 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAC6. streight ; but they saw no seal while they were upon ihe coast of Eaheinomauwe. They sounded both in the night and this morning, but had no ground with one hundred and fifty fathom. At half past one o'clock, they saw. Ijind bearing VV, by S., which they, steered for, and be- fpre it was dark were within three or four miles of it: during the whole night they saw fires upon it, andatse* ven the next morning were within abput three leagues^ of the shore, which appeared to be high, but level. At three o'clock in the afternoon, they saw the land extend- ing from N. E. by N. to N. W. f N. ; and soon after they discovered some low land, which appeared like an. island, bearing S. ^ W. They continued their course to the W. by S., and in two hours they saw high land over the low land, extending to the southward as far as S. W. by S. ; but did not appear to be joined to the- land to the northward, so that there is either water, a. ^eep bay, or low land between them. Early on the 9th they discovered under their bow a ledge of rocks, extending from S. by W. to W. by S. upon which the sea broke very high ; they were not more than three quarters of a mile distant, yet they had tive and forty fathom water. As the wind was at N. W. they could not now weather them, and as the cap- tain was unwilling to run to leeward, he tacked and made a trip to the eastward ; the wind, however, soon after coming to the northward, enabled them to get clear of all. This ledge lies S. E. six leagues from the sou- tberraost part of the land, and S. E. by E. of some re- markable hill? which stand near the shore: about three leagues to the northward of it there is another ledge, which lies full three leagues from the shore, and on which the sea broke in a dreadful surf. From- the situation W. The norihernmost of these islands is called by the na- tives Ealicinomauwe, and the sou*'iermost Tovy, or Tavai Poenammoo. ** Tovy Poenammoo, (adds our author) is for the most part a mounlainous, and, to all appearance, a barren country' ; and the people whom we saw in Queerv Charlotte's Sound, those that came off lo us under the snowy mountains, and the fires to the west of Cape» Saunders, were all the inhabitants, and signs of inhabit- ants, that we discovered upon the whole island. *' Eaheinomauwe has a much better appearance ; it is indeed not only hilly, but mountainous, yet eveii th6 hills and mountains are -covered with wood, and every valley has a rivulet of water : the soil in these vallies, and in the plains, of which there are many that are not overgrown with wood, is in general light but fertile 5 from the vegetables that we found here, there is reason to conclude, that the winters are milder than those in England, and we found the summer not hotter, though it was more equally warm. ** In this country there are no quadrupeds but dog« and rats, at least we saw no other, and the rats are so scarce that many of us never saw them. The dogs live with the people, who breed ihem for no other purpose than so eat : there might indeed be quadrupeds that we did not see, but this is not probable, because the chief pride of the natives, with respect lo their dress, is in the skins and hair of such animals as they have, and we never saw tl>e skin of any animal about them but those of dogs and birds : there are indeed seals upon the coast, and we once saw a sea*lion, but we imagine they are 6 LIEUT«NANT COOK's FIRST VOY MCf, l^t seldom caught, for, though we saw some of their teelh> which were fashioned into an ornament like a bodkin^ and worn by the natives at their breast, and highly va» lued, we saw none of their skins : there are also whales upon this coast, and though the people did not appear to have any art or instrument by wliich such an animal could be taken and killed, we saw patoo-patoos in the possession of some of them, which were made of the bone of a whale, or of some other animal whose bone had exactly the same appearance. " Of birds the species are not many; and of these; none, except perhaps the gannet, is the same with those of Europe ; here are ducks indeed, and shaggs of several kinds, sufficiently resembling those of Europe, to be called the same, by those who have not examined them very nicely. Here are also hawks, owls, and quails, which differ but very little from those of Europe, at first sight ; and several small birds, whose song, as has been remarked in the co*irse of the narrative, is much more melodious than ajiy that we had ever heard. ** The sea-coast is also visited by many oceanic birds, particularly albatrosses, sheerwaters, pintados, and a rew> of the birds which Sir John Natborough lias called pen- guins, and which indeed are what the French call nu» anee, and seem to be a middle species between bird and fish; for their feathers, especially those upon their wings, differ very little from scales; and their wings themselves, which they use only in diving, and not to accelerate their motion even upon the surface of the water, may, perhaps, with equal propriety, be called fkis. " Neither are insects in greater plenty than birds; » few butterflies and beetles, flesh-flies, very like those iai 163 li'^'UlENANT cook's FIRST V0YAG6. Europe, and some musquitos and sand-fl!es, perhaps exactly the same with those of North America, make up the whole catalogue. Of musquitos and sand-flies, how- ever, which are justly accounted the curse of every country where they abound, we did not see many; there were indeed a few in almost every place where we went on shore, but they gave us so little trouble, that we did not make use of the shades which we had pro- vided for the security of our faces. " For this scarcity of animals upon the land, the sea, however, makes an abundant recom pence ; every creek swarming with fish, which are not only wholesome, but equally delicious with those of Europe: the ship seldom anchored in any station, or with a light gale passed any place, that did not afford us enough with hook and line to serve the whole ship's company: especially to the southward: when we lay at anchor, the boats, with hook and line, near the rocks, could take fish in any quantity; and the seine seldom failed of producing a still more ample supply : so that both times when we anchored in Cook's Streight, every mess in the ship, that was not careless and improvident, salted as much as lasted many weeks after they went to sea. Of this article, the variety was equal to the plenty; we had mackarel of many kinds, among which, one was exactly the same as we have in England : these came in im- mense shoals, and were taken by the natives in their seines, who sold them to us at a very easy rate. Besides these, there were fish of many species, which we had never seen before, but to all which the seamen very readily gave names. But the highest luxury which the sea afforded us, even in this place, was the lobster, or tea cray-fish, which are probably the same that in lh« tTEUTENAKT COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. I^ Account oi Lord An?on'» Voyage, are said to have been found at the island of Juan Fernandez except that, al- though large, they are not equal in size: they differ from ours in England in several particulars, they have a greater number of prickles on their backs, and they are red when first taken out of the water. These we also bought every where to the northward, in great quanti- ties of the natives, who catcii them by diving near the shore, and finding out where they lie with their feet. We had also a fish, that Frerier, in his Voyage to the Spanish Main in South America, has described by the names of elefant, pejegallo, or poison coq, which, though coarse, we ate very heartily. Several species of the skate, or sting- ray, are also found here, which were still coarser than the el^fant ; but, as an atone- ment, we had, among many kinds of dog-fish, one spotted with white, which was in flavour exactly simi- lar to our best skate, but much more delicious. We bad also flat lish, resembling both soles and flounders, besides eels and congers, of various kinds, with many others, of which those who shall hereafter visit this coast will not fail to find the advantage ; and shell-fish. In great variety, particularly clams, cockles, and oys- ters. - ** Among the vegetable nroducliolis of this country, the trees claim a principa] place ; for here are forests of vast extent, full of the siraitest, the cleanest, and the largest timber trees that we had ever seen; their size, iheir grain, and apparent durability, render (hem fit Un any kind of building, and indeed for every other' purpose except masts, for which they are too hard, and too heavy: there is one in particular, which^ when we were upon the coast, was rendered conspicuous by a NO. 38. p .I70 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. scarJel flower, that seemed to be a compendage of many fibres; it is about as large as an oak, and the wood is exceedingly hard and heavy, and excellently adapted to the use of the mill-wright. There is another, which grows in swamps, remarkably tall and straight, thick enough to make masts for vessels of any size, and, if a judgment may be formed by the direction of its grain, very tou^h; this, wliich our carpenter thought to re- semble the pitch-pine, may probably be lightened by tjipping, and it will then make the finest masts in the \\orld; it has a leaf not unlike a yew, and bears berries in small bunches. ** Great part of the country is covered with a luxii- riant verdure, and our natural historians were gratified by the novelty, if not the variety of the plants. Sow- Ihislle, garden night-shade, one or two kinds of gtass, the same as in England, and two or three "kinds of fern, like those of the West Indies, with a few of the plants that are to be found in almost every part of the world, vveije all, out of about" four hundred species, that have hitherto been described by any botanist, or had been seen elsewhere during the courseof this voyage, except about live or six which had been gathered at Terra del fuego. '* Of eatable vegetables there are but few; our peo- ple,, indeed, who had been long at sea, eat, with equal pleasure and advantage, of wild celery, and a kind of cresses, which grevy in great abundance u.pon all parts of the s»ea-shore. We also, once or twice, met wilh a plant like what the country people in England call lamb's-quarters, or fathcn, which we boiled instead of greens; and once we had the good fortune to find a qabbage-tree, which afforded us a delicious meal ; and. LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. ]7 \ except the fern-root, and one other vegetable, totally unknown in Europe, and which, though eaten by the natives, was extremely disagreeable ta us, we found no other vegetable production that was fit for food, among those tiiat appeared to be the wild produce of the coun- try ; and we could find but three esculent plants among those which are raised by cultivation, yams, sweet po- tatoes, and coccos. Of the yams and potatoes there are plantations of many acres; and I believe that any ship which should happt:n lo be here in the autumn, when they are dug up, might purchase them in any quantity. *' Gourds are also cultivated by the natives of this place, the fruit of which furnisiies them with vessels for various uses. We also found here the Chinese paper mulberry tree, the same as that of which the inhabitants of the South Sea islands make their cloth ; but it is so scarce, that though the New Zealanders also make cloth of it, they have not enough for any other purpose than to wear as an ornament in the holes which they make in their ears. " Bat among all the trees, shrubs, and plants of this country, there is not one that produces fruit, except a berry, wjiich has neither sweetness nor flavour, and which none but the boys took pains to gather, should be^ honoured with that appellation. There is, however, a plant, that serves the inhabitants instead of hemp and flax, which excels all that are put to the same purposes in other countries. Of this plant there are two sorts f the leaves of both resemble those of flags, but the flow- ers are smaller, and their clusters more numerous; in one kind they are yellow, and in the other a deep red. Of the leave* pf these plants, with very little prepara^ B 2 172 lltUTENiINT cook's FIRST VOYACt. lion, they make all their common apparel; and of these Ihey make also their siring', hnes and cordage for every purpose, which are so much stronger than any thing we can make with hemp, that they will not bear a compa- rison. From the same plant, by another preparation^ they draw long slender fibres, which shine like silk, and are as while as snow : of these, which are al^ surpris- ingly strong, the finer clothes are made; and of th« leaves, without any other preparation than splitting Ihera into proper breadths, and tying the strips together, they make their fishing-nets; some of which are of an enprraous size." Speaking of the inhabitants, our author observes, " the stature of the men in general is equal to the largest o£ those in Europe : they are stout, well limbed, and fleshy, but not fat, like the lazy and luxurious inhabitants of file islands in the South Seas : they are also exceedingly vigorous and active; and have an adroitness and manual dexterity in an uncommon degree, which are discover- able in whatever they do. Their colour in general is brown; but in few deeper than that of a Spaniard, who has been exposed to the sun, in many not so deej). The women have not a feminine delicacy in their appear- ance, but their voice is remarkably soft; and by that, the dress of both sexes being the same, they are princi- pally distinguished : they have, however, like the wo- men of other countries, more airy cheerfulness, and a greater flow of animal spirits, llian the other sex. Their hair, both of the head and beard, is black ; and their teeth extremely regular, and as while as ivory: the features of both sexes are good; they seem to enjoy iiiy-h health, and we saw many who appeared to be oF a great age. The dispositions, both of the men asid LIEUTENANT COOK's*^ FIR ST' VOY A GF. 17'5 women, seemed to be mild and gentle; ihey treat each other with the tenderest affection, but are implacable towards their enemies, to whom they never gtve quar- ter. " The bodies of both sexes, (adds our author,) are marked wn'th the black stains called amoco, by the same method that is used at Otaheite, and called taUowing; but ihe men are more marked, and the women less. The women in general stain no part of their bodies but the lips, though sometimes they are marked with small black patches on other parts : the men, on the contrary, seem to add something every year to the ornaments of the la^.t, so that some of ihem, who appeared to be of an- advanced age, were almost covered from head to foot. Besides the amoco, they have marks Impressed by a method unknown to us, of a very extraordinary kind ; they are furrows of about a line deep, and a line broad, such as appear upon the bark of a tree which has becn^ cut through, after a year's growth : the edges of these farrows are afterwards indented by the same method, and being perfectly black, they make a rnoSt frighlfuL appearance. The faces of the ok! men are almost co- vered with these marks; those who ai'e very young, blacken only their lips like the women ; when they are- somewhat older, they ha^ e generally a black patch upon fvne cheek, and over one eye, and so proceed gradually, tiiat they way-grow oid" and iiocorab'e together: but though vve could not but be disgusted wil'h the horrid deformity which- these stains aftd furrow's produced in llie "human face^ divine,''vve could not' but admire; the dexterity and art with which (hey were impressed. The marks upon the' facein general are-spifals, whidl' are drawn with gr^at nicety, and even«le^a*i^^ those- 9 3- 17* LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. on one side exactly corresponding with those on th« other: the marks on the body somewhat resemble the foliage in old chased ornaments, and the convolutions, of filagree work; but in these they have such a luxuri- ance of Taney, that of an hundred, which at first sight appear to be exacthy the same, no two were, upon a close examination, found to be alike. We observed^ that the quantity and form of these marks were different in different parts of thfc coa>t, and that as the principal seat of them at Otaheite wa^ the breech, in New Zea- land it was sometimes the only part which was freehand in general was less distinguished than any otlier. Our author then proceeds to describe the dress of »i New Zealander. ** It is made, (he says) of the leaver ctf the flag ; these leaves are split into three or four slips, and the slips, when they are dry, interwoverv with each other in a kind of stuff between netting and cloth, with, all the ends, which are eight ornine inches long, hang- ing out on the upper side, Irke the shag, or thrum tv mats, which we sometimes see lying in a passagje. Of this cloth, if cloth it may be called, two pieces serve for a complete dress j one of them is tied over their shoulders with a string, and reaches as low as the knees > to the end of this siring is fastened a bodkin of bone, ■which is easily passed through any two parts of this tp- per garment, so as to tack them together; the other piece is wrapped round the waist, and reaches nearly to the ground : the Jower garment, however, is wora by the men only upon particular occasions; but they "nvear a belt, to which a string is fastened, for a very singular use. The inhabitants of the South Sea Islands 9iU up the prepuce^ so as to pfevest it from coverin|; LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. I75 the glans of the penis, but tiiese people, on the con- trary', bring ihe prepuce over the glans, and to prevent it from being drawn back by the contraction of the part, ihey tie the siring which hangs from their girdle round the end of it. The glans, indeed, seemed to be the onlj part of their body which they were solicitous to conceal, for they frequently threw off all their dress but the bell and string, with the most careless indifference, but shewed maniiiest signs of confusion, when, to gratify our curiosity, tliey were requested to untie the string, and never con>ented but with the utmost reluctance and shame. When they have only their upper garment on, and sit upon their hams, they bear some resemblance to a thatched house; but this covering, though it is ugly, is well adapted to the u.;e of those who frequently deep in the open air, wiihoul any other shelter from the rain. *' But besides this coarse shag, or thatch, Ihey hate two sorts of cloth, which have an even surface, and are- vefy ingeniously made, in the same manner with that manufactured by the inhabitants of South America, some of which we procured at Rio de Janeiro. One sort is as coarse as our coarsest canvass, and somewhat resembles it in the manner of laying the threads, but it is ten limes as strong : the other is formed by many threads l>ing close one way, and a few crossing them the other, so as to bind them together; but these are about half an inch asunder, some v\ hat like the round pieces of cane-matting, which are sometimes placed under the dishes upon a table. This is frequently strip- ed, and always had a pretty appearance; for it is com- posed of the fibres of the same plant which are prepared 176 LIEUTENANT COOk's fIRST V0YA<3F. SO as to shine like silk. It is made in a kind of frame, of the size of the cloth, generally about (\ve feet long,, and four broad, across which the long thread:^, which lie close together, or warp, are strained, and the cross- threads, or woof, are worked in by hand, whicii must be-- a very tedious operation. ** To both these kinds cf cloth they work borders of different colours, in stitches, somewhat like carpeting, or rather like those used in the samplers which girls work at school. These borders are of various patterns, and" wrought with a neatness, and even an elegance, which, considering they have no needle, is surprising : but the- great pride of their dress consists in the fur of their dogs,, which they use wilh such t-comony that they cut it into stripes, and sew them upon their cloth at a distance from each other, which is a strong proof that dogs are not plentiful among them ; these stripes are also of dif- ferent colours, and disposed so as to produce a pleasing effect. We saw some dresses that were adorned wilh feathers instead of fur, but these were not common ; and we saw one that was entirely covered wilh the red fea- thers of the parrot, ** Both sexes bore their ears, and by stretchl-ng them the holes become large enough to admit a finger at least. In these holes they wear ornameuts of various kinds, cloth, feathers, bones of large birds, an(I even sometimes a stick of wood; and to these receptacles of finery they generally applied the nails which we gave them, and every thing wliich it was possible thoy could contain. The women sometimes thrust through them the down of the albatross, which is as white as snow, and which, spreading before and behind the hole in a bunch almost- tlEUTENANT COOk's PFRST VOYAGE. l77 as big as the fist, makes a very singular, and however strange it may be thought, not a disagreeable appear- ance. Besides the ornaments that are thrust through th« holes of the ears, many others are suspended to them t)y strings, such as chissels or bodkins made of green talc, upon which they set a high value, the nails and teeth of their deceased relations, the teelh of <^ogs, and every thing else that they can get, which they think either cu- rious or valuable. The women also wear bracelets and anclels, made of the bones of birdtle that divides the nostrils perforated, and a fea- ther thrust through the hole, which projected on each ide over the cheeks." " Their houses, (adds our author,) are the most inar- tificially made of any thing among them, being scarcely equal, except in size, to any English dog-kennel : they are seldom more than eighteen or twenty feet long, eight or ten broad, and five or six high, from the pole that runs from one end to the other, and forms the ridge, to the ground : the framing is of wood, generally slender sticks, and both walls and roof consist of dry grass and hay, which, it must be confessed, is very tightly put to- gether; and some are also lined with the bark of trees, 80 that in cold weather they must afford a very comfort- able retreat. The roof is sloping, like those of our barns, jmd the door is at one end, just high enough to admit a 178 LIEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. man, creeping upon his hands and knee^ ; near the door is a square hole, whicli serves ihe double office of win- dow and clnmney, ("or ihe fire place i;; at the end, nearly in the middle between the two sides : in some conspi- cuous part, and generally over tl>e door, a plank is (i>4ed, covered with carving after their manner : this they va- lue as we do a picture, and in their estimation it is not an inferior ornament : the side v»'alls and roof project about two feet beyond the walls at each end, so as to form a kind of porch, in which there are benches for the accommodation of the family. Thai part of the fioor which is allotted for the fire-place, is enclosed in a hollow square, by partitions either of wood or stone, and in the middle of it the fire is kindled. The floor, along the inside of the walls, is thickly covered with straw,, and upon this the family sleep. Their furnilure and im- plements consist of but few articles, and one chest com- monly contains them all, except their provision: baskets, the gourds that hold their fresh- water, and the haTr»mers that are used to beat their fern-root, which generally stand without the door : some rude tools, their cloalhs* arms, and a few feathers lo stick in their hair, make the rest of their treasure. Some of the better sort, whose families are large, have three or four houses enclosed •within a court-yard, the walls of which are constructed of poles and hay, and are about twelve feet high. *' Tillage, weaving, and the other arts of peace, seem lo be best known and most practised in the northern^ part of this country ; for there is little appearance of any of them In the South : but the arts of war flourish equally through the whole coa^!t. " Of weapons they have no great variety, but such. •LIEUTENANT COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 17^ as they have are well filled for deslruction , they have spears, darts, batlle-axes, and the patoo-patoo. The «pear is fourteen or fifteen feet long, pointed at both fftids^ and sometimes headed with bone : these are grasped by the middle, so that the j)art behind balaneiilg thai before, makes a push more difficult to be parried, than that of a weapon which is held by the end. They throw the dart by hand, and so they do stones ; but darts and stones are seldom used except in defending their forts. Their battles, whether in boats or on shore, are generally hand to hand, and the slaughter mustconse* quenily be great, as a second blow with any of their weapons is unnecessary, if the first takes place: their trust, however, seems to be principally placed in the patoo-patoo, which is fastened to their wrists by a strong strap, lest it should be wrenched from them, and which the principal people generally wear sticking in their gir- dle?, con>idering it as a military ornament, and part of their dress, jike the poignard of the Asiatic, and the sword of the European. They have no defensive ar- mour ; but, besides their w-eapons, the chiefs carry a ataff of distinction, in the same manner as our officers do the spontoon : this was generally dhe rib of a whale, as white as snow, with many ornaments of carved work, dogs' hair, and feathers; but sometimes it was a stick, about six feet long, adorned in the same manner, and iulaid with a shell like mother-of-pearl. Those who bore this mark of distinction were generally old, at least past the middle age, and were also more marked with the amoco than the rest. " The war-dance consists of a great variety of violent motions, and hideous contortions of the limbs, during ISO LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE, which ihe countenance also performs i(s part: the tongue is frequently thrust out to an incredible length, and the eye-lids so forcibly drawn up, that the white ap- pears both above and below, as well as on each side of the iris, so as to form a circle round it ; nor is any thing neglected that can render the human shape frightful and deformed: at the same time they brandish their spears, shake their darts, and cleave the air with their patoo- patoos. This horrid dance is always accompanied by a song ; il is wild indeed, but not disagreeable, and every strain ends in a loud and deep sigh, which they utter in concert." As to their religion, they acknowledge the influence of superior beings, one of whom is supreme, and the rest subordinate ; and gave nearly the same account of the origin of the world, and the production of mankind, as those in Otaheiie. Our navigators saw no place of public worship, like the Morals of the South Sea islands ; but they saw, near a plantation of sweet potatoes, a small ajjiea, of a square figure, surrounded with stonesi in the middle of which one of the sharpened stakes whicli they use as a spade, was set up, and upon it was hung a basket of fern-roots : upon inquiry, the natives said that k was an offering to the gods, by which the owner hoped to render them propitious, and obtain a plentiful crop. As to their manner of disposing of their dead, they were tol4. that, in the northern parts, they buried them in the ground ; and that, in the southern, they threw them into the sea : it is, however, certain, that they saw no graves in the country, and that the natives affected to conceal every thing relating to their dead, with a kind S LIEUrENANT, COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. 181 of mysterious secresy. But whatever may be the se- pulchre, the living are themselves tiie monuments; for scarcely a single person, of either sex was seen, whose body was not marked by the scars of wounds which they had inflicted upon themselves, as a testimony of Iheir regret for the loss of a relation, or friend: some of the scars were very large and deep, and in many instances had greatly disfigured the face. NO. 38. lt.2 LIEUTJiNANT .COOK*S FIRST VOVAGE, cnyn\ IF. •Passage to Botany Ba^' (now called New South Wales) — Various Incidents — Descriplion olliot.uiy Bny — Dangerous Situation of llieSiiip — EiidcHvour River — Passage to New Guinea — Island of Savu — Batavia — Passage to the Cape of Good Hope — Re- turn to England. 1 HEY sailed from Cape Farewell March 31, 1770, and steered westward. On the i)lh, being in latitude 3S^ 9' S. they saw a tropic bird, which in so high a la- til tide is very uncommon. On the 16lh, they saw an egg bird and a gannet, and as these are birds that never go far fiom the land, they continued to sound ail night, but had no ground with ].'iO faihom. The next day a small land-bird perched upon the rigging, but they had no ground with 120 fa- thom. Early on the 18th, they saw two Port Egmont hens and a pintado bird. The next day they saw land, extending Irom N. E. to \V. at the distance of five or six leagues, liaving eigiiiy fadiom water, with a fine sandy bottom. "ine souihermost point of liiis land was called Point Tlicks, because Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, was the iiist who discovered it. At noon they discovered another point of this land, which bore N. 20" E. at the distance of about four 1 • LIEUTENANT COOK.'s FIRST VOYAGE. 1 v"* leagues. Thi*; point rises in a round hil'ock, very mr.cfi resemblino: the Ram Head at ihe entrance of Piymoutl) Sound, and tlieretore the captain called it by the same name. What they had now seen of the land appeared low and ievc! : ihe sea shore \va< a white-sand, but the country wiiliin was green and woody. About ont: o'clock th.ey saw three water-spouts at once ; two were between them and the shore, and the llirrd at ?om« distance, upon their larboard-quarter. At six they shortened sail, and Inougiit lo tor the nig!it, havini^ fj'ty-six fathom water, and a fine sandy boitom. 'i ii^- northernmost land In sight then bore K. by £. y E. ar.d ^ small inland i\ing close to a point on the main bore W. distant two leagues. Thi< point was called Cape Howe, and may be known by some rouiid hills upon the maioj jus' wiihin it. The v\eat!^er being clear on the 20lh, gave them a good view ot ihe country, which has a very plcasin-^- appearance: it is O; a moderate height, diversified by hilli and valiies, ridges and plains, intersp:i>ed with a- few lawns, of no great cxicni, but iii general covered wiih wood: the accent of Ihe hilis and ridges is ^ent!e, and the summits are noi high. On the '21st they were abreast of a high mountain,. 1\ ing near ihe shore, which, on account of its figure, was called Mount DrometJary : under this mountain the shore forms a point, lo which the captain gave ih.e name of Point Dromedary, and over it was a peaked hil- lock. In the evening they were abreast of a point of land which rose in a pernendicvilar cliff, and which, for that reaso!i, was called Point UpriglH. The next day they were so near the land as to distinguish several o the natives upon the beach, who appeared to be of a q2 184 LIEUTEN>iNT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. black, or very dark colour. At noon, their latitude, by observation, was 35'^ 27' S. and longitude 209'^ 23' W, Cape Dromedary bore S. 28" W. distant nineteen leagues, a remarkable peaked hill, which resembled a square dove-house, v\itha dome at the top, and which, for ihat reason, was called the Pigeon House, bore N. 32° .30' W. and a small low island, which lay close under the shore, bore N. W. distant about two or three leaijL'es. On the QMh, a point of land, which the captain had discovered on Sf. George's day, and whicli therefore he called Cape George, b )re W. distant nineteen miles. In the course of their run on the 23th, from the pre- ceding noon, wj'jich was forty-five miles north-east, they saw smoke in several piaces near the beach. About two leagues to the nurihwarci of Cape George, the shore seemed to form a bay, which promised a shelter from the north-east winds, but as the wind was with Ihein, it was not in their power to look into it without beating up, which would have cost them too much time. The north point of this bay, on account of its tigure, was named Long Nose; its latitude is 53" 6', and about eight leagues north of it there lies a point, which, from tlie colour of the land about it, was called Red Point : its latitude is St" 29, and longitude 208«43'W. To the north-west of Red Point, and a little way inland, sta.ids a round hill, the top of which looks like the crown of a hat. Before it was dark they saw smoke in several places along the shore, and a fire two or three times af- terwards. On the 27 ih, they continued at the distance of be- tween four and five miles from the shore, till the after- ncwn, whey they came within two miles, and the cap- LEUTENAN'T COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. 1 ? J tain then hoisted out the pinnace and jawl, to attempt a landing, but the pinnace proved to be so leaky, that lie vvgs obliged to hoist her in again. At this time ihey saw several of the natives walkintj briskly along the shore, four of whcfni carried a small canoe upon their shoulders: they flattered themselves that they were go- ing to put her into the water, and come off to the '-hip ; bat iuiding themselves disappoinied. Captain Cooic de- termined to go on shore in the yawl, with as many as it would carry: he embarked therefore with only Mr. ■ Banks; Dr. Solander, Tupia, and four rowers: they pulled for that part of the shore where the Indians ap- peared, near which four small canoes were lying n< the water's edtje. The Indians sat down uoon the rock=;, and seemed-to wait for their landing , but, lo their great regret, when they came within about a quarter of a mile they ran into the woods : tlis gentlemen determined, however, to go ashore, and endeavour to procure an interview, but in this they were agani di^^appointed, for they found so great a surf, beating upon every part cf (he beach, that landing with tlieir little boat was alto- gether impracticable : they were therefore obliged to be content with gazing at such olyects as presented them- selves from t.he water; the canoes, upon a near view, seemed very much to resemble those of the smaller sort at New Zealand. They ob^erved, that among the trees on shore, which were not verv large, there wa.s DO underwood; and could distirguish that many -of them were of the palm kind, and some of them cabbage trees. At five in the evening they got on board !he ship. About this time it fell calm, and their situation was by no means agreeable: they were -now not more than a mile and a half from the shore, and within some break- a3 186 LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. crs, which lay to the southward, but happily a light breeze came ofTlhe land, and carried them oat of dan- ger: vvitli this breeze they slood to the northward, and early on the 28th discovered a bay, which seemed to be well slieltered from ell winds, and into which, therefore, they determined to go with the ship. The pinnace be- ing repaired, was sent with the master to sound the en- trance. At noon, seeing a smoke on the shore, they directed tiieir glasses to the spot, and soon discovered ten people, who, upon their nearer approach, left their fire, and retired to a little eminence, whence they could i-onveniently observe the motions of those in the ship. Soon after two canoes, each having two men on board, came to the shore just under the eminence, and the men joined the rest on the top of il. The pinnace, which had been sent ahead to sound, now approached the place, upon which all the Indians retired farther up tl>e hill, except one, who. hid himself among some rocks near the landing-place. As the pinnace proceeded along the shore, most of the people took the same route, and kept abreast of her at a distance; when she came back, the master said, that in a cove a little within the liarbour, some of them had come doivn to the beach, and invited him to land by many signs and words, of which he knew not the meaning, but that all of them were armed with long pikes, and a wooden weapon shaped somewhat like a cimeter. The Indians, who had nut followed the boat, seeing the ship approach, u>;ed many threatening gestures, and brandished their weapons : particularly two, who made a very singular appearance, for iheir faces seemed lo have been dusted with a white powder, and their bodies painted wiUi broad streaks of the same colour j which passing obli- LIEUTENANT COOK'S FIRST COYAGE. IS/ quely over their breasts and backs, looked not unlike the cross-belts worn by our soldiers ; the same kind of streaks were also drawn round their legs and thighs', like broad garters ; each of these men held in his hand the weapon that was said to be like a cimeter, which appeared to be about two feet and a half long, and they seemed to ta!k to each other with great earnest- ness. They continued to sland into the bay, and early in the afternoon anchored under the south shore, about two miles within the entrance, in six fathom wal^r. As they came in they saw, on both points of the bay, a few huts, and several of the natives, men, women, and children. Under the south head they saw four small ca- noes, with each one man on board, who were very biv- sily employed in striking fish with a long pike, or spear; they ventured ahiiost into the surf, and were so intent upon what they were doing, that although the ship passed within a quarter of a m:le of them, they scarcely turned their eyes towards her; possibly being deafened by tiie surf, and their attention wholly fixed upon their business, or sport, tliey neither saw nor h^Jard her go past them. The place where the ship had anchored was abreast of a small village, consisting of about six or eight houses ; and while they were preparing to hoist out the boat, they saw an old woman, followed by three cliiljren, come out of the wood; she was loaded with firewood, and each of the children had also its little burthen : when she came to the houses, three more children, younger than the others, came out to meet her; she oiten looked at the ship, but expressed neither fear nor surprise; in a short timt she kindled a fire, and the four 188 LIEUTEK^tNT cook's FIRST VOYAGE. earjoes came in from fishing. The men landed, and having hauled up their boats,, began to dress their din- ner, to all appearance wholly unconcerned about the Endeavour, though within half a mile of them. All the people they had yet seen, had not the least appear- ance of clothing. Afler dinner the boats were manned, andthey set out from the shij), Tupia being of the party. They intend- ed to land where they jiaw the people, and began lo hoj^e that as they had so little regarded the ship's coming into the bay, they would as Hitle regard their coming on shore : in this, however, they were disappointed ; for as soon as they approached the rocks, two of the men came down upon them to dispute. their landing, and the rc'^t ran away. Each of the two champions was armed with a lance about ten feet long, and a =;hort s!:ck which he seemed to handle as if it were a niachine to assist him in managing or throwing the lance: they called in a very loud tone, and in a harsh dissonant language, of which Tupia did not understand a single word : ih.ey brandish- ed theif weapons, and seemed resolved to defend their coast to the uttermost, though tlieyvvere but two against iorty. The captain being very unwilling that hostilities should commence will) such inequality of force between them, ordered the boat to lie upon her oars : they then parlied by signs for about a quarter of an hour, and to bespeak their good will, threw them nails, beads, and other trifles, which they took up, and seemed to be well pleased with. The captain then made signs that he wanted water, and, by all the means that he could de» vise, endeavoured to convince them that they would do them no harm : they now waved to tliem, and he was willing Lo interpret it into an invitation; but upon their LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 189 putting the boat in, ihey came again to oppose them. One appeared to be a youth about nineteen or twenty, and the other a man of middle age : as the captain had now no other resource, he tired a musquet between them. Upon the report, the youngest dropped a bundle of lances upon the rock, but recollecting himself, in an in- stant he snatched them up again with great haste: a stone was then thrown at the gentlemen, upon which the cap- tain ordered a musquet to be fired with small shot, which struck the eldest upon the legs, and he immediately ran to one of the houses, which was distant about a hundred yards. The gentlemen now hoped that their contest was over, and immediately Ian led ; but they had scarcely left the boat when this Indian returned, and they then perceived that he had left the rock only to fetch a shield or target for his defence. As soon as he came up, be threw a lance, and his comrade another; they happily hurt nobody. A ll.ird musquet with small shot was fired at them, upon which one of them threw another lance, and both immediately ran away. The gentlemen repaired immediately to the huts, in one of which they found the children, who had hidden themselves behind e shield and s(jme bark ; they left some beadN, ribbands, pieces of cloth, and other presents, which they hoped w'o^Id procure them the good-will of the inhabifanls; but the lances which they found lying about, they took away with them, to the number of about fifty: they were from six to fifteen leet long, and all of them had four prongs in the manner of a fish-gig, each of which was pointed with fish-bone, and very sharp ; they observed that they were smeared with a viscous sub- stance of a green colour, which favoured the opinion of their being poisoned, though they ailef wards discovered 19 J LIEUTENA-NT C00lt*S FIRST VOYAGE." that it was a mistake: they appearet), hy the sea-weed that waub!e Island Point. The next day they passed a black bluff head, or point of land, upon which a great nuinber of the natives were assembled, and which was therelore called Indian Head, At day-break, the iiorihermost land bore W. S. \V. and sec;nt-d to end in a point, Irom which they discovered a reef running out to the northward ss far as they eould see. They had hauled their wind to the westward be- fore it was light, and continued the course fill they saw breakers upon their I'ee bow. They now edged away N. W. and N. N. W. along tht^ east side of ih.e shoal, iVom two to one mile distant, having regular soundings from thirteen to seven fathom, uith a line sandy bot- tom. This point was named Sandy Cape, and the shoal r3 198 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. Break Sea Spit, because they had now smooth water, and to the southward of it always a high sea from the S. E. For several days ihey had seen several of the sea birds callf^d boobies, not having met with any of them before; last night a small flock of them passed the ship, and went away to the N. W. and in the morning, from about half an hour before sun-rise, to half an hour after, flights of them were continually coming from N. N. W. and flying to the S. S. E. nor was one of them seen to fly in any other direction ; they therefore conjectured that there was a lagoon, river, or inlet of shallow water, in the bottom of the deep bay, to the southward of them, "U'hilher these birds resorted to feed in the day, and that not far to the northward there were some islands, to which they repaired in the night. To this bay the cap- tain gave the name of Hervey's bay. On the 22(1, they were abreast of the south point of a large open bay, in which they intended to anchor. During (his course they discovered land, covered with palm-nut trees, which they had not seen from the timo of their leaving the islands wiihin the tropic; they also saw two men walking along the shore* who did not condescend to take the least notice of them. In the evening, having hauled close upon the wind, and made two or three trips, they anchored about eight o'clock in five fathom, with a fine sandy bottom. Early the next morning, the captain, Mr. Banks, Dr. So- lander,Tupia and others, went ashore, in order to examine the country. They landed a iitUe within the south point of the bay, wiiere they found a channel leading into a large lagoon; this channel the captain proceeded to examine, and found three fathom water till he got about a mik* up it, where be met with a shoal, upon. LIEUTENANT COOk's FIR^r VOYAGE. 19^ which there was lidle more than one fathom, but having" passed over it, he had three fathom again. They found several bogs, and swamps of salt-water, upon which, and b)' the sides of the lagoon, grows the true man- grove, such as is found in the West Indies, and the first of (he kind that they had met with. In the branches of these mangroves there were many nests of a remarkable kind of ant, that was as green as grass; when tlve branches were disturbed they came out in great num- bers, and punished the offender by a much sharper bile than evei they had felt from the same kind of animal be- fore. Upon these mangroves also they saw small green caterpillars in great numbers ; iheir bodies were thick set with hairs, and they were ranged upon the leaves side by side, like a file of soldiers, to the number of twenty or thirty together ; when touched, the hair of their bodies had the quality of a nettle, and gave a much more acute, though less durable pain. The country here is manifestly worse than about Botany Bay; the soil is dry and sandy, but ihe sides of the hills are covered with trees, which grow separately, wmioat underwood. Among the shoals and sand-banks they saw many large birds, some much bigger than swans, which they judged to be pelicans; but tliey were so shy, that they could not get within gun-shot of them. Upon the shore they saw a species of the bustard, one of which they shot ; it was as large as a turkey, and weighed seventeen pounds and a half. They all agreed that this was the best bird they had eaten since they left England; and, in honour of it, they called this inlet Bustard Bay. The sea seemed to abound vvilh fish ; upon the mud-banJis, under the mangroves, they fouud iunumerable oysters, of various kindi; among others, 200 LILUTENAV.T COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. (he hammer-oyster, and a large proportion of small pearl-oysters. The people who were left on board the ship said, that about twenty of the natives came dowr^ to the beach, abreast of her, and having looked at her some time, went away. Early on the 24'th, they weighed, and at day-light, w hen they were in the greatest deplh, and abreast of the north head of the bay, they discovered breakers stretching out from it, N. N. E. between two and three miles, with a rock at (he outermost point of them, just above water. While they were passing these rocks, afe the distance of about half a mile, they had from fifteen to twenty fathom, and as soon as they had passed them they hauled along the shore W. N. W. for the farthest land they had in sight. On the 25th they saw more lancH making like islands, and bearing N. W. by N. At nine they were abreast of the point, at the distance of one mile,, with fourlcciv fathom water. This point was found to lie directly un- der the tropic of Capricorn, and for that reason was called Capricorn : its longitude is 108° 58' W. it is of a considerable height, looks white and barrt-n, and may be known by some islands which lie to the N. W. of it, and some small rocks at the distance of about a league S. W. On the west side of the cape there appeared to- be a lagoon, and on the two spits which formed the en- trance ihey saw an incredible number of the large birds that resemble a pelican. On the 27th they made sail to the northward, and the noFthermost point of land in sight was called Cape Manifold, from the number of high hills which appeared over it ; It lies in latitude 22" 23' S. and distant aboat seventeen leagues from Cape Capricorn^ in the direc- LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 201 tion of N. 26'^ VV. Between these capes tlie shore forms a large bay, which was named Keppel Bay ; the islands also were distinguished by the name of Kenpel's Islands. In this bay there is good anchorage. They saw smoke and tires upon the main ; and upon the islands they saw people. The land of Cape Manifold is high, rising in hills directly from the sea ; and may be known by three islands which lie off it, one of them rear the shore, and the other two eight miles out at sea» One of these islands is low and flat, and the other high and round. On the 28th they were abreast of the point which was called Cape Townshend. It lies in lat. 22" 15 ; long. 209'' 43': the land is high and level, and rather naked than woody. Several islands lie to the north- ward of it, at the distance of four or five miles out at .sea; three or four leagues to the S. E. the shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which there appeared to be an in- let or 4iarbour. Having sent a boat ahead, they bore away W. by N. many small islands, rocks, and shoals, lying between them and the main, and many of a larger .extent without them; their soundings till near noon were from fourteen to seventeen fathom, when the boat made the signal for meeting with shoal water; upon this they hauled close upon a wind to the eastward, but suddenly fell into three fathom and a quarter; they im- mediately dropped an anchor, which brought the ship up with all her sails standing. When the ship was brought up they had four fathom, with a coarse sandy bottom, and found a strong tide seiting to the N. W. by W. i W. at the rale of near three miles an hour, by which they were so suddenly carried upon the shoal. At this time a great number of islands lay all aiaund 202 LIELTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE* them. In (lie afternoon, having sounded round the ship, and iound that there was water sufficient to carry her over the shoal, they weighed, and about tliree o'clock made sail and stood to the westward, as the land lay, having sent a boat ahead to sound. At six in the evening liiey anchored in ten fathom, with a sandy bot- tom, at about two miles distance from the main: the next morning the captain sent away the master, with two boats, to sound the entrance of an inlet, which bore from them at W. at about the distance of a league, into which he intended to go with the ship, that be might wait a few days till the moon should increase, and in the mean lime examine the country. As soon as the ship could be got under sail, the boats made the signal for anchorage; upon which they stood in, and anchored in five fathom water, about a league within the entrance of the inlet. Here they had thoughts of laying the ship on shore, and cleaning her bottom ; the captain, master, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, there- fore landed, in search of a convenient place for that purpose. They hiund walking here extremely trouble- some, for the ground was covered with a kind of grass, the seeds of which were very sharp, and beard- ed backwards ; so that whenever they stuck into their clothes, vihich indeed was at every step, they woiked forwards by means of ihe beard, till they got at the flesh ; and at the same time they were surrounded by a cloud of musquitoes, v\hich incessantly tormented them with their stings. They soon met with several places where the ship might convenient!) be laid up ashore, but, to their great disappointment, ihey could iind no fresh water. They proceeded, however, up the country, where they found gum trees, and observed that the gum was in very LIEUTENANT COOKS FI«ST VOYAGE. 203 small quantities. Upon the branches of these trees, and some others, they found ants' nests, made of day, as big as a bushel ; the ants which inliabiled these nests were small, and their bodies while. But upon another species of the tree they found a small black ant, which perforated all the twigs, and having worked out the pith, occupied the pipe which had contained it; yet the parts in which these insects had thus formed a lodgment, and in which they swarmed in amazing numbers, bore leaves and flowers, and afipeared to be in as flourishing a state as those that were sound. They found also an incredible number of bulferflies,-so that, for the space of three or four acres, the air was so crowded with them, that millions were to be seen in every direction, at the same time that every branch and twig was cover- ed with others that were not upon the wing. They found here also, in places that were quite dry, a small fish of a singular kind; it was about the size of a min- now, and had two very strong breast fins ; it did not seem to have become languid by the want of water, for upon their approach it leaped away, by the help of the breast fins, as nimbly as a frog: neither indeed did it seem to prefer water to land ; for when they found it in the water, it frequently leaped oat, and pursued its way upon dry ground ; they also observed, that when it was in places where small stones were standing above the surface of the water, at a little distance from each other, it chose rather to leap from stone to stone, than to pass through the water ; and they saw several of them pass entirely over paddies in this manner, till they came to dry ground, and then leap away. In the after- noon they renewed their search after fresh water, but without success. The inlet in which the ship lay was sot- LIEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. called Thirsty Sound, because it afforded no fresh wa- ter. Il may be known by a group of sntiall islands lying under the shore, from two to five leagues distant, in the direction of N. W. and by another group of islands that lie right before it, between three and four leagues out at sea. Over each of tlie points that form the entrance is a high round hill, which on the N. W. is a peninsula, that at high water is surrounded by the sea ; they are bold to both the shores, and the distance between thera is about two miles. In this inlet is good anchorage in seven, six, five, and four fathom; and places very convenient for laying a ship down, where, at spring- tides, the water does not rise less than sixteen oi* eight- teen feet. The tide flows at the full and change of the moon about eleven o'clock. On the 31st, having no inducement to stay longer In this place, they put to sea. The west point of Thirsty Sound was called Pier Head. On the 1st of June, a point of land which forms the north-west entrance into Broad Sound, was named Cape Pahnerston. Between this cape and Cape Townshend lies a bay, which was called the Bay of Inlets. On the 2d, a high promontory, which was named Cape Hillsborough, bore W. ^ N. distant seven miles. On the 3d they discovered low land, quite across what they look for an opening, which proved to be a bay, about five or six leagues deep ; upon this they hauled their wind to the eastward, round the north point of the bay, which at this time bore from them N. E. by N. distant four leagues; from this point they found the land trend away N. by W. ^ W, and a streight, or passage, between it and a large island, or islands, lying parallel to it. Having the tide of ebb in their favour, they stood LIEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. 205 for this passage, and at noon were just within the en- trance. Thi5 point, which was named Cape Conway, lies in latitude 26"^ 36' S. longitude 21 1« 28^ W. and the bay which lies between this cape and Cape Hills- borough was called Repulse Bay. The greatest depth of water which they found in it was thirteen fathom, and the least eight. Among the many islands that lie upon ihh coast, there is one more remarkable than the rest ; it is of a small circuit, very high and peaked, and lies E. by S. ten miles from Cape Conway, at the south end of the passage. The land, both upon the main and islands, is high, and diversified by hill and valley, wood and lawn, with a green and pleasant appearance. On one of the islands they discovered, with their glasses, two men and a woman, and a canoe with an outrigger, which appeared to be larger, and of a construction very different from those of bark tied together at the ends, which they had seen upon other parts of the coast; they hoped, therefore, that the people here had made some farther advances beyond mere animal life than those they had seen before. They were nearly the length of the north end of the passage, which, as it was discovered on Whitsunday, was called Whitsunday^s Passage, and the islands that form it were named Cumberland Islands. At day-break they were abreast of the point which had been the farthest in sight to the north-west the evening before, which was named Cape Gloucester. It is a lofty promontory, and may be known by an island which lies out at sea N. by W. ^ W. at the distance of five or six leagues from it, and which was called Holborne Isle; there are also islands lying under the land between Hol- borne Isle, and Whitsunday's Passage. On the west side of Cape Gloucester the land trends aways S. W. Ko. 39. s 206 LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. and S. S. W. and forms a deep bay, which was called Edgecumbe Bay. In the evening ihey were abreast of 4he weslerm^&t pomt, at about three miles distance, and because it rises abruptly from the low lands which sur- round it, it was called Cape Upstart. On the eth they had (he mouth of a bay all open, ex- tending from S. 4 E. to S. W. f S. distant two leagues, which was named Cieaveland Bay; the east point was called Cape Cieaveland, and the west, which had the appearance of an island, Magnetical Isle, as they per- ceived that the compass did not traverse well when thejr were near it; they are both high, and so is the main land within them, the whole forming a surface the most rugged, rocky, and barren, of any they had seen upon the coast ; it was not, however, without inhabitants, for they saw smoke in several parts of the bottom of the bay* At day-break, on the 7th, they were abreast of the eastern part of this land, which they found to be a group of islands, lying about five leagues from the jnain. In the afternoon they saw several large columns of smoke upon the main, they saw also some people and canoes, and upon one of the islands what bad the ap- pearance of cocoa-ntit trees; as a few of these nuts would now have been very acceptable. Lieutenant Hicks was sent ashore, and with him went Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to see w'lat refreshments could be procured, while the captain kept standing in for the island with the ship. About seven o'clock in, the even- ing they returned, with an account that what they had taken for cocoa-nut trees were a small kind of cabbage- palm, and that, except about fourteen or fifteen plants, they had met wiihnoUiing worth bringing away. While IIKUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. 207 they were ashore they saw none of the people, but just as they had put off, one of thera came very near the beach, and shouted with a loud voice; it was so dark that they could not see him, however, they returned towards the shore, but when he heard the boat putting back he ran away, or hid himself, for they could not get a glimpse of him, and though they shouted, he made no reply. This land, on account of its figure, was named Point Hillock; it is of a considerable height, and may be known by a round hillock, or rock, which joins to the point, but appears to be detached from it. Between this cape and Magnetical Isle the shore forms a large bay, which was called Halifax Bay. It is sheltered from all winds by the islands, a«d it affords good an- chorage. The land near the beach, in the boilom of the bay, is low and woody, but farther back it is one continued ridge of high land, which appeared to be bar- ren and rocky. At six they were abreast of a point of land which lies N. by W. | W. distant eleven miles from Point Hillock, which was named Cape Sandwich, Between these two points the land is very high, and the surface is craggy and barren. From Cape Sandwich the land trends W. and afterwards N. forming a fine • large bay, which v\'as called Rockingham Bay. Ak noon they were abreast of the north point of Rocking- ham Bay, which bore from them W. at the distance of about two miles. This boundary of the bay is formed by an island of considerable height, which is distin- guished by the name of Dunk Isle, and which lies sq near the shore as not to be easily distinguished from it. On the Sth they were abreast of some small islands, which they called Frankland*s Isles, and which lie about I wo leagues distant from tlie main landr Between this s 2 J08 LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. island and a point on the main, called Cape Grafton, from which it is distant about two miles, they passed with the ship. Having hauled round Cape Grafton, they found the land trend away N. W. by W. and three miles to the westward of the cape they found a bay, in which they anchored about two miles from the shore, in four fathom water, with an oozy bottom. The east point of the bay bare S. 74° E. the west point S. 83" W. and a low, green, woody island, which lies in the offing, N. 35^' E. This island, which lies N. by E. | E. distant three or four leagues from Cape Grafton, was called Green Island. As soon as the ship was brought to an anchor, the captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Sofander, went ashore to procure some fresh water. They found two small streams, which, however, were rendered very difficult of access by the surf and rocks upon ihe shore. The country they /bund every where rising into steep rocky hills. As no fresh water could conveniently be pro- cured, they made the best of tiieir way back to the ship, and about midnight they weighed and stood to the N. W. On the ) 0th they hauled off north. In order to get without a small low island, which lay about two leagues di.^lance from the main, and great part of which, at this time, it being high water, was overflowed ; about three leagues to (he north-west of this island, close un- der the main land, is another island, the land of which rises to a greater height. Between the northermost point of land and Cape Grafton, the shore forms a large, but not a very deep bay, which being discovered on Trinity Sunday, was called Trinity Bay, As no serious accident had happened during a navi* LIEUTENANT COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 20^ gadon of more than one thoasand three hundred miles, none of the names which distinguish the several parts of the country that our navigators saw, are memorials of distress ; but here they became acquainted with misfor- tune, and therefore called the point which they had just seen to the northward Cape Tribulation. It lios in la- titude 160 6'S. and longitude 214'' 39' W. In order to avoid two low woody islands, which some took to be rocks above water, tliey shortened sail, and hauled ofT shore E. N. E. and N. E. by E. close upon a wind. They had the advantage of a fine breeze, and a clear moonlight night, and in standing off from six till near nine o'clock, they deepened their water from fourteea to twenty-one fathom, but while they were at supper it suddenly shoaled, and they fell into twelve, ten, and eight fathom, within the space of a few minutes. Cap- tain Cook immediately ordered every body to their sta- tion, and all was ready to put about and come to an an« chor, but meeting, at the next cast of the lead, with deep water again, they concluded that they had gone over the tail of the shoals which they had seen at sun- set, and that all danger was past: before ten they had twenty and twenty-one fathom, and this depth continu- ing, the gentlemen left the deck in great tranquillity, and went to bed ; but a few minutes before eleven, the water shallowed at once from twenty to seventeen fa- thom, and before the lead could be cast again, the.ship struck, and remained immoveable, except by the heav- ing of the surge, that beat her against the craggs of the lock upon which she lay. In a few moments every body v/as upon the deck, with countenances which suf- ficiently expressed the horrors of thehr situation. As they knew they were not near the shore, they concluded s 3 210 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOVAGE. that they were upon a rock ofcoral, which is more fatal than any other, because the points of it are sharp, and every part of the surface so rough as to grind away whatever is rubbed against it, even with the gentlest motion. In this situation all the sails were immediately taken in, and the boats hoisted out to examine the depth of water round the ship; they soon discovered that their fears had not aggravated their misfortune, and that th© vessel had been lifted over a ledge of the rock, and lay in a hollow within il : in some places there was from three to four fathom, and in others not so many feet. The ship lay with her head to the N. E. and at the dis- tance of about thirty yards, on the starboard side, the water deepened to eight, ten, and twelve fathom. As soon as the long boat was out, they struck their yards and topmasts, and carried gut the stream anchor on the starboard bow, got the coasting anchor and cable into the boat, and were going to carry it out the same way ; but upon sounding a second time round the ship, the water was found to be deepest astern : the anchor there- fore was carried out from the starboard quarter instead of the starboard bow, (that is, from the stern instead of the head,) and having taken ground, their utmost force was applied to the capslern, hoping that if the anchor did not come home, the ship would be got off, but, to their great misfortune and disappointment, they could nol move her: during all this time she continued to beat with great violence against the rock, so that it was with the utmost difficulty that they kept upon their legs; and, to complete the. scene of distress, they saw, by the li^ht of the moon, the sheathing boards from the bottom oFthe vessel floating away all round her, and at last her false keel, so that every moment was making way for 2 ■ 9, LIEUTENANT COOKS FIRST VOYiiGE. 211 the sea to rush in which was to swallow them up. They had now no chance but to lighten her, and ihey had lost the opportunity of doing that lo the greatest advantage, for unhappily ihey went on shore just at high water, and by this time it had considerably fallen, so that after she should be lightened so as to draw as much less water as the water had sunk, they should be but in the same situ- ation as at first. This however was no time to indulge conjecture^ nor was any effort remitted in despair of suc- cess : that no time might be lost, the water was immedi- ately started in the hold, and pumped up ; six guns, be- ing all they had upon the deck, their iron and stone bal- last, casks, hoop-slaves, oil-jars, decayed stores, and ma- ny other things that lay in the way of the heavier mate- rials, were thrown overboard with the utmost expediti- on, every one exerting himselt with an alacrity almost approaching lo cheerfulness, without the least repining or discontent; yet the men were so far impressed with a sense of their situation, that not an oath was heard a- mong them, the habit of profaneness, however strong, being instantly subdued by the dread of incurring guilt when death seemed to be so near. At break of day ihey saw the land at about eight leagues distance, without any island in the intermediate space. Happily it was a dead calm. As they expect- ed high water in the forenoon, anchors were got out, and every thing made ready for another effort lo heave her off if she should float, but to their inexpressible sur- prise and concern she did not float by a foot and a half, though they had lightened her near fifty ton, so much did the day tide fall short of that in the night. They now proceeded lo lighten her still more, and threw over- board QVQry thing that it was possible for them to spare : 212 LIEnTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. e hitherto she had not admitted much water, but as the tide fell, it rushed in so fast that two pumps incessantly woriced could scarcely keep her free. At two o'clock she lay heeling two or three streaks to starboard, and the pinnace, which lay under her bows, touched the ground ; they had now no hope but from the tide at midnight, and to prepare for it they carried out their two bower an- chors, one on the starboard quarter, and the other rig^it astern, got the blocks and tackle which were to give them a purchase upon the cables in order, and brought the falls, or ends of them, in abaft, straining them tight, that the next effort might operate upon the ship, and by shortening the length of Ihf cable between that and the anchors, draw her off" the ledge upon which she rested, towards the deep water. About five o'clock in the aP lernoon, they observed the tide begin to rise, but at the same lime, the leak increased to an alarming degree, so that two more pomps were manned ; unhappily, only one of them would work: three of the pumps were however kept going, and at nine o'clock the ship right- ed, but the leak had gained upon them so considerably^ that it was imagined she must go to the bottom as soon as she ceased to be supported by the rock : this was a a dreadful circumstance, so that they anticipated the floating of the ship not as an earnest of deliverance, but an event that would probably precipitate their de- struction. Their situation was now truly deplorable ^ and as the dreadful moment that was to determine their fate came on, every one saw his own sensations pictured in the countenance of his companions: however, the capstern and windlass were manned with as many hands as could be spared Irom the pumps, and the ship floating about twenty minutes alter ten o'clock^ the eflbrt was LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 2l3 jnade, snd she was heaved into deep water. It was some comfort to find that she did not now admit more water than she had done upon the rock; and thougii, by the gaining ot the leak upon the pumps, there was not less than three feet nine inches water in the hold, yet the men did not relinquish their labour, and they held the water as it were at bay; but having now endured excessive fatigue of body, and agitation of mind, for more than twenty-four hours, and having but'little hope of succeeding at last, they began to flag : none of them could work at the pump more than five or six minutes together, and then, being totally exhausted, they threw themselves down upon the deck, though a stream of wa- ter was running over it from the pumps between three and four inches deep ; when those who succeeded them had worked their spell, and were exhausted in their turn, they threw themselves down in the same manner, and the others started up again, and renewed their labour ; thus relieving each other till an accident was very near putting an end to their efforts at once. The planking which lines the inside of the ship's bottom is called the ceiling, and between this and the outside planking there is a space of about eighteen inches : the man who till this time had attended the well, to lake the depth of water, had taken it only to the ceiling, and gave the measure accordingly ; but he being now relieved, the person who came in his stead reckoned the depth to ihe outside planking, by which it appeared in a few minute? to have gained upon the pumps eighteen inches, the difference between the planking without and within. Upon this, eve-n the bravest was upon the point of giv- ing up his labour with his hope, and in a few minutes every thing would have been involved in all the confu* 211- LIEUTENANT eOOK*S PIRST VOYAGE. ■sion of despair. Bat thk accident, however dreaeir situation these were tri- fles which scarcely attracted notice* Their next busi- ness was to get up the fore top-mast, and fore-yard, and warp the ship to the soiiih-east, and at eleven, having now a breeze from the sea, they once more got under sail, and stood for the land. It was however impossible long to continue the labour by which the pumps had been made to gain upon the leak, and as the exact situation of it could not be disco- rered, they had no hope of stopping it within. In thii situation, Mr. Monkhouse, oneof the midshipmen, came to the captain, and proposed an expedient that he hacl tlEUTENA^t COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 215 once seen used on board a merchant ship, which had sprung a leak that admitted above four feet water fan hour, and which, by this expedient, was brought safely from Virginia to London. To this man, therefore, the care of the expedient, which is called fothering the ship, was imraediale!}' committed, four or five of the people being appointed to assist him. He took a lower stud- ding sail, and having mixed together a large quantity of oakham and wool, chopped pretty small, he stitched it down in handtlils upon the sail, as lightly as possible, and over this he spread the dung of the sheep, and other filth. When the sail was thus prepared, it was hauled under the ship's bottom by ropes, which kept it extended, and when it came under the leak, the suction which carried in the water, carried- in with it the oak- bam and wool tVom the surface of the sail, which, in other parts, the water was not sufficiently agitated to wash oflf. By the success of this expedient, their leak was so far reduced, that, instead of gaining upon three pumps, it was easily kept under with one. This was a new source of confidence and comfort. Hitherto th^ir chief hopes were to run the ship ashore in some harbour, either of an island or ttie main, and build a vessel out of her materials to carry thera lo the East Indies ; but nov^r they only thought of ranging along the shore in search of a convenient place to repair the damage she had sus- tained, and then prosecuting the voyage upon the same plan as if nothing had happened. Accordingly they kept edging in for the land, till about six o'clock in the evening, when they came to an anchor in seventeen fa- thom water, at the distance of seven leagues from the shore, and one from the ledge of rocks upon which they iiad struck. 216 LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. On I he I3ih ihey passed close wilhout two small islands, lo reach which, had, in the height of their dis- tress, been the object of their wishes, and therefore were called Hope Islands. In the alternoon, the master was sent with two boats, as well to sound ahead of the ship as to look out for a harbour where they might repair their defect!', and put the ship in proper trim. When it was near sun-set, there being many shoals about them, they anchored in four fathom, at the distance of about two miles from the shore. The pinnace was still out with one of the mates ; but at nine o*clock she returned, and reported that about two leagues to leeward she had discovered just such an harbour as was wanted, in which there was a sufficient rise of water, and every other con- venience that could be desired, either for laying the ship ashore, or lieaving her down. In consequence of this information, they weighed at six o'clock the next morning, and having sent two boats a-head, to lie upon the shoals that they saw in their way, ran down to (he place? but, notwithstanding their pre- caution, they were once in three fathom water. They anchored in four fathom, about a mile from the shore. The captain now went himself and buoyed the chan- nel, which he found very narrow ; the harbour also he found smaller than he expected, but most excellently a- dapled to their purpose ; and it is remarkable, that in the whole course of their voyage they had seen no place which, in their present circumstances, could have afford* ed them the same relief. This day, and the whole night, it blew too f^e^h for them to venture from their anchor, and run into the harbour. On the 16th it was somewhat more moderate ; and aboulsix o'clock in the morning they hove the cable shoit. LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 2i7 wilh a design to get under sail, but were obliged lo de- sist, and veer it cut again. The scurvy now began to make its appearance among the men, with many formidaWe symp^onr.s. Tupia, who had some time before complained that his gums were swelled, and who had taken plentifully of lemon-juice hy the surgeon's direction, had now livid spots upon his legs, and other indubitable testimonies that the disease liad made a rapid progress, notvvith'^tanding ail their re- medies, among which, the bark had been liberally admi- nistered. Mr, Green, the astronomer, was also declin- ing ; and these, among other circum>tances embittered the delay which prevented their going ashore. In the morning of the i7th, though the wind was still fresh, they ventured to weigh, and push in for the har- bour; but in doing this they twice run the ship aground: fhe first time she went off without any (rouble, but the second lime she stuck fast. They now got down the fore yard, fore top-masts, and booms, and taking them overboard, made a raft of them alongside of the ship. The tide was happily rising, and about one o'clock in the afternoon she floated. They soon warped her into the harbour, and having moored her alongside of a steep beach, to the south, gbi the anchors, cables, and all the hawsers on shore before night. The next morning a stage was made from the ship to the shore, which was so bold that she floated at twenty feet distance : two tents were also set up, one for the sick, and the other for stores and provisions, wliich were landed in the course of the day. They also landed all the empty water casks, and part of the stores. As soon as the tent fo the sick was got ready for their reception, they Were sent ashore, to the number of eight or nine, and NO. 39. T 2i8 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. the boat was dispatclied to haul the seine, in hopes of pri>curing some lish lor their refreshment ; but she re- U'.rned without success. In the mean time, the captain chmbed one of the liighest hills among those that over- looked the harbour, which afforded by no means a com- fortable prospect : the low land near the river is wholly overrun with mangroves, among which the salt-water flows every tide ; and the high land appeared to be eve- ry where sloney and barren. Tupia recovered in a sur- prising degree ; but Mr. Green still continued extreme- ly ill. On the I9lh Mr. Banl;s crossed the river to take a view ot the country on the other side : he found it to consist princi[)ally ol" sand hills, where he saw some In- dian houses, which appeared to have been very lately inhabited. In his walk he met with va'^k flocks of pi- geons and crows : of the pigeons, which were exceed- ingly beautiful, he shot several ; but the crows, which were exactly like those in England, were so shy that he could not get within reach of them. On I he 22d the tide left the ship, and gave them an opportunity to examine the leak, which they found to be at her floor heads, a litile before the starboard fore- cliains. In this, place the rocks had made their way through four plunks, and even into the timbers ; three more planks were much damaged, and the appearanc^e of these breaches was vtry extraordinary : there was not a splinter to be seen, but a!l was as smooth as if the whole had been cut away with an instrument : the tim- bers in this place were happily very close, and if they had not, .it would have been absolutely impossible to have saved the ship. But after all, her preservation de- pended upon a circumstance still more lemarkable ; one LTEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE". 219 fyf the holes, which was big enough to have sunk lhem> if they had had eight prumps instead of four, and been able to keep thetn incessantly g^'ing, was in great mea- sure plugged up by a fragment of the rock, which, after having made the wound, was left sticking in it ; so that the water, whicli at first had gained upon their pump*, was what came in at the interstices belv%een the stone and the edges of the hole that received it. We found also several pieces of the fothering, which had made their way between the timbers, and in a great mea'^ure stopped thosei, while she lay beating against the rock : the remainder of it was in so shattered a condition, that, it had better havt- been gone, and the fore foot and main keel were also da- maged, but not so as to produce any immediate danger. While the carpenters and smiths were busy, some of the people were sent on the other side of the -vater to -^hoot pigeon^;, for the sick, who, at their return, reported they had seen an animal as large as a greyhound, of a slender make, a mouse colour, and extremely switt ; they disco- vered also many Indian houses, and a fine stream ol fresh water. The next day almost every body had seen the animal which the pigeon-shooters had brought an account of; and one of the seamen, who had been rambling in the woods, told them at iiis return that he verily believed. he had seen the devil : they naturally einjuired in what T 2 S20 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST V0YAG5. form he had appeared, and he answered, *' He was as large as a one-gallon keg, and very like it j he had horns ap.d wings, yet he crept &o slowly through the grass, that if 1 had not been afeanl I inight have touched him." This formidable apparition they afterwards dis- covered to have been a batt ; and the batts here must be acknowledged to have a frighlfui appearance, f ;r they are nearly black, and full as large as a partridge; they iiave indeed no horn^, but the fancy of a man who thought he saw the devil, might easily supply that de- Arct. One of the mldshlpoicn, an American, who was a- broad on the 29th with his gun, reported that he had seen a wolf, exactly like those which he had been used to see in his own rountry, and that he had shot at it, but did not kiil it. Mr. Gore reported, on the 30th, that he had seen two animals like dogs, of a straw clour, that they ran like a liare, and were of the same size. They were now ve- ry successful in havvling the seine, particularly this day, when the captain was able to distribute two pounds and a half to each man: they had gathered greens, which were boiled among the peas, and made an excellent mess, which, wMth two copious supplies of fish, afforded them unspeakable refreshment. On the 3d of July, the master, who was out in the pinnace, found some cockles of so enormous a size that one of them was more than two men could eat, and a great variety of other sheiUfish, of which he brought a plentiful sui^ply : in the evening he had also landed in a bay about three leagues to the northward of their station, w here he disturbed some of the natives, who were at gjjpper ; they all fled with the greatest precijHtalion at LIEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. t?'-? J lijs approach, leaving some fresh sea eggs, and a lire ready kindled, behind ihem, but there was neither house ror hovel near the p^ace. This day an alligator was seen to swim about the ship for some time, and at high water they made an effort to float the ship, which happily succeeded : they found, however, that by lying so long with her head aground, and her stern afloaf, she had sprung a leak between decks, abreast ot the main chains, so that it was become necessary to lay her ashore again. On the 6tii, Mr. Banks, with Lieutenant Gore and three men, set out in a small boat up the river, with a view to spend two or three days in an excursion. They saw ^n animal which Mr. Banks judged to be a wolf: they also saw three other- animal?, but could neither catch nor kill one of -them ; and a kind of bait, as large as a partridge, but this also eluded all their diligence and skill. At night they look up their lodging close to the banks of the river,' and made a fire, but the musqui- tos swarmed about them in such numbers, that their quarters were almost untenable : they followed them into the smoke, and almost into the fire, which, hot as the climate was, they could belter endure than the stings of these insects, which were an intolerable torment. With the first dawn they set out in search of game, and in a walkof about ten miles they saw four animals of the same kind, two of which Mr. Banks^s grey-hound fairly chaced, but they threw him out at a great distance, by leaping over the long grass, which prevented his run- ning : this animal was observed not to run upon four legs, but to bound or hop forward upon two. About noon they returned to the boat, and again proceeded up the river, which was soon contracted into a fresii wa- T 3 2^2 LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. ler brook, where, however, the tide rose to a consider- able height : as evening approached, it became low wa- ter, and it was then so shallow thai they were obliged to get out of the boat and drag her along, till they could find a pliice in which they might, witi) some hope of rest, pass the night. Such a place at length offered, and while they were getting the things out of the boat, they observed a smoke at the distance of about a furlong : as ihey did not doubt but that some of the natives, with whom they had so long and earnestly desired to become personally acquainted, were about the fire, three of the party went immediately towards it, hoping that so small a number would mot put them to flight : when they came up to the place, however, they found it de- serted, and therefore they conjectured that before they had discovered the Indians, the Indians had discovered them. They found tiie fire still burning, in the hollow of an eld tree that was become touch-wood, and seve- ral branches of trees newly broken down, with whicii ciiildren appeared lo have been playing: they observed also many footsteps upon the sand, below high water mark, which were certain indications that th^ Indians had been recently upon the spot. Several houses were found at a little distance, and some ovens dug in the ground, in which victuals appeared to have been dress- ed since the morning, and scattered about them lay some shells of a kind of clamm, and Fome fragments of roots, ihe refuse of the meal. After regretting their disap- pointment, they repaired to their quarters, which was a broad sand-bank, under the shelter of a bush. Their beds were plainlain leaves, which they spread upon the sand, and which were as soft as a maltrass ; their cloaks served them for bed-clothes, and some bunches of grass 1 LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. 223 for pillows. Our travellers having slept, without once Bwaking till the morning, examined the river, and finding the tide favoured their return, and the country promised rothing worlhy of a farther search, they reimbarked in iheir boat, and made the best of their way to the ship. On the 10th four of the natives appeared upon the sandy point, on the north side the river, havrng with them a small wooden canoe, with out-riggers : tiiey seemed for some time to be busily employed in striking fied, they ex- pressed, both by looks and gestures, great disappoint- ment and anger. They made several atte.mpts to obtain it, but being equally unsuccessful, they sud After some unsuccessful attempts to warp the ship out of the harbour, they got under sail on the 4th. when the north- ernmost point of land m sight was called Cape Bedford, and the harbour which they quitted Endeavor River. It is only a small bar-harbour, or creek, which runs in a winding channel three or four leagues inland, and at the head of which there is a small brook of fresh water. The chief refreshment that they procured here was turtle, but as they were not to be had without going five leagues out to sea, and the weather was frequently tempestuous, they did not abound with this dainty. In several parts of the sandy beaches, and sand hills, near the sea, they found purslain, and a kind of bean that grows upon a stalk, which creeps along the ground; the purslain tlwy found very good when it was boiled, and the beans were of great service to the sick; the best greens, however, that could be procured here, were the tops of the coccos, known in the West Indies by the name of Indian kale. They are found here chiefly in boggy ground. The few cabbage palms that they met with were in general smaU, and yielded so little cabbage thatihey were not worth seeking. Besides the kangnroo, the opossum, and a kind of pole-cat, there are wolves upon this part of the coast, if they were not deceived by the tracks upon the ground, and several species of serpents; some of the serpents NO. 39. V 230 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGB. are venomous, anil some harmless : there are no tame animals here except dogs, and of these they saw but two or three. OF land fowls they saw crows, kites, hawks, cockatoos of iwo sorts, one white and the other black; a very beautiful kind of loriquets, some parrots, pigeons, of two or three sorts ; and several small bird<, not known in Europe. Tiie water-fowls are herns, whistling ducks, which perch, and, it is believed, roost upon trees, wild geese, curlieus, and a few others, but these do not abound. They were now employed in evading the shoals which surrounded them, and on the lO.h were abreast of three small inlands ; and between them and the main : there was another low island, which lies N. N. W. four miles from the three islands; and in this chan- nel they had fourteen fathom water. The norlher- inost point of land in sight now bore N. N. ^ W. distant about two leagues. Four or five leagues to the north of this headland they saw three islands, near which lay some thai were still smaller, and they could see the shoals and reefs without them, extending to the northward, as far as these islands : between these reefs and the head-land tliey directed their course, leaving to the eastward a small island, which lies N. by E. distant lour miles from the three islands. At noon they were got between the l^ead-land and the three islands. They now thought they saw a clear opening- before ihem, and hoped that they were once more out of danger, in this hope, however, they soon found themselves disappoint- ed, and for that reason the captain calfed the head-land Cape Flattery. It is a lofty promontory, making next the sea in two hills, which have a third behind them, with low sandy ground on each side. They steered LIEUTENANT cook's FfRST VOYAGE. 231 along the shore N. W. by W. till one oVIock, for what Ibey thouglit the open channel, when the petty officer at the nia*;t-lieacl cried out thai he saw land ahead, ex* tending quite round to the islands that lay without thera, and a large reef between them and the islands. In this dilemma they hauled upon a wind in for the land, and made the signal for the boat that wa-? sounding ahead to come on board, but as she was far to leeward, they were obliged to edge away to take her up, an;it one of the hi^h inlands in the offing. He hoped to discover moredisiinctl) the situation of the shoals, and the chann<-l between them. In the morning therefore ot ihe I i (h, he < t-.'Ut in the pinnace, accompanied b) Mr. Bark', who-e forti- tude and curiosity made hin* a party in every expedi- tion, for the northermost and the largest of the three islands, and at the same time be sent the master in the yawl to leeward, to sound between the low islands and the main. In his way he passed over a reef of coral rock and sand, which lies about two leagues from the island, and left another to leeward, which lies about three miles from it : on the north part of the reef, to the lee- ward, there is a low sandy island, with trees upon it; and upon the reef which they passed over, they saw se« vera! turtle. 5^32 LltUTENANT COOK^S FIRST VOVACE. It was about one o'clock before tlie gentlemen rcacl)ed the island, when they immediately ascended liie highest hill. The captain continued upon liiis hill till sun set, but the weather was so hazy du- ring the whole time, that he came down mucii dis- appointed. They found the island, which is visible at twelve leagues distance, to be about eight leagues in circamference, and in general very rocky and barren. Oil the north-west side, however, there are si)me sandy bays, and some low land, which is ct>vered with long thin gras-;, and trees of the same kind with those upon the njain ; this part also abounded with li- zards, of a very laige size, some of vvhicii they took. As they saw no oilier animals upon this place, the cap- tain called it Lizard Island. At two in the afternoon, there being no hope of clear weather, they set out from Lizard Island to return to the ship, and in their way landed upon a low sandy island with trees upon it, which they had remarked in their going out. Upon this island they saw an incredible number of birds, chiefly sea- fowl: they found also the next of an eagle, with young ones, which they killed ; and the nest of some other bird, they knew not what, of a most enormous size ; it wa? built with sticks upon the ground, and was no less than twenty-six feet in circumference, and two feet eight inches In'gh. They found also that this place had been visited by the Indians, probably to eat turtle, many of wiiich ihey saw upon the island, and a great number of their shells, piled one upon another in different places. To this spot tiiey gave the name of Eagle fsland. At break of day, on the ISlh, they got under sail, and stood out N. E, for the north- west end of Lizard IIEUTENANT COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 233 Island, leaving Eagle Island to windward, and some other islands and shoals to the leeward, and having the pinnace ahead, to ascertain the depth of water in every part of their course. As soon as they had got without the breakers, they had no ground with one hundred and fifty fathom, and found a large sea rolling in from the S. E. a certain sign that neither land nor shoals were near them in that direction. The passage, or channel, through which they passed into the open sea beyond the reef, lies in latitude 14® 32' S. and may always be known by the three high islands within it, which the captain called the Islands of Direction, because by these a stranger may find a safe passage through the reef to the main. On the 1 5th they steered west, in order to ^et within «ight of the land, that they might be sure not to over- shoot the passage, if a passage there was, between this land and Guinea; a little before one o'clock they saw bigh land from the masthead, bearing W. S. W. At two they saw more land to the N. W. of that they had seen before:, it appeared in hills, like islands; but they judged it to j^e a conlinualion of the main land. About t-hree they discovered breakers between the land and the ship, extending to the southward farther than they could see; but to the northward they thought they saw ihem terminate abreast of them. What they took for the end of them in this direction, however, soon appeared to be only an opening in the reef: for they presently saw them again, extending northward, beyond the reach of their sight. Upon this they hauled close upon a wind, which was now at E. S. E. and they had scarcely trimmed their sails before it came to E. by N. which was right upon the reef, and consequently made their clearing it u3 234 LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. doubtful. When they had stood about (wo miles S. S. E. it fell calm ; they had sounded several times during the jiight, but had no bottom with one hundred and forty fathom, neither liad they any ground now with the same length of line; yet, about four the next morning, they plainly heard the roaring of the surf, and at break of day saw it foaming to a vast height, at not more than a mile's distance. Their distress now returned upon them with double force ; the waves which rolled in upon the reef, carried them towards it very fast, they could reach no ground with an anchor, and had not a "breath of wind for the sail. In this dreadful situation no re- source was left them but the boats, and, to aggravate their misfortune, the pinnace was under repair; the long-boat and yawl, however, were put into the water, and sent ahead to tow, which, by the help of thei'r sweeps abaft, got the ship's head round to the north- ward; which, if it could not prevent their destruction, might at least delay it. But it was six o'clock before this was etTected, and they were not then a hundred yards from the rock upon which the same billow which, washed the side of the ship, broke to a tremendous height the very next time it rose ; so that between them and destruction there was only a dreary valley, no wider than the base of one wave, and even now the sea under them was unfathomable, at least no bottom was to be found with a hancired and twenty fathom. During this scene of distress, the carpenter had found means to patch up the pinnace; so that she was hoisted out, and sent ahead, in aid of the other boats to tow ; but all their efforts would have been ineffectual; if, just at this crisis of their fate, a light air of wind had not sprung up, very light indeed, but enough to turn the scale ia 1 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST V0Y4GE. 2S5 their favour, and, in conjunction with the assistance which was afforded them by the boats, to give the ship a perceptible motion obliquely from the reef. Their hopes now revived ; but in less than ten minutes it was again a dead calm, and the ship was again driven to- wards the breakers, which were not now two hundred yards distant. The same fight breeze, however, re- turned before f hey had lost all the ground it had enabled them to gain, and lasted about ten minutes more. Dur- ing this lirae they discovered a small opening in the reef, at about the distance of a quarter of a mile. One of ihe males was sent to examine it, who reported that its breadth was not more than the length of the ship, but that within it there was smooth water : this discovery seemed to render their escape possible, and that was all, by pusiiir.g the ship through the opening, which was immediately attempted, ft was uncertain, indeed^, whether they could reach it ; but if they should succeed thus far, they made no doubt of being able to get through : in (his, however, they were disappointed, for having reached it by the joint assi>tance of their boats and the breeze, thuy found that in the mean time it had become high water, and, to their great surprize, they met the tide of ebb rushing out of it like a mill-stream. They gained, however, some advantage, though in a manner directly contrary to their expectations; they found it irripossible to go through the opening, but tl;e stream that prevented them carried them out about a quarter of a mile; it was too narrow for them to keep in it longer; yet this tide of ebb so much assisted the boats, that by noon (hey got an offing of near two miles. They were, however, still embayed in the reef; and tiie tide of ebb being spent,, the tide of flood, notvvith- $36 LIEUTKNANT COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. T standing their utmost efforts, again drove the ship into the bighl. About this time, however, they saw another opening, near a mile to the westward, which Mr. Hicks was sent in the small boat to examine: in the mean lime Ihey struggled hard with the flood, sometimes gaining a little, and sometimes losing. About two o'clock Mr. Hicks returned with an account that the opening was narrow and dangerous, but that it might be passed: (he possibility of passing it was sufficient encouragement to make the attempt, for all danger was less imminent than that of their present situation. A light breeze now sprung up at E. N. E., with which, by the help of their boats, and the very tide of flood that without an open- ing would have been their destruction, they entered it, ;9nd were hurried through with amazing rapidity, by a torrent that kept ihem from driving against either side of the channel, which was not more than a quarter of a mile in breadth. As soon as they had got within the reef they anchored in nineteen fathom, over a bottom of coral and shells; happy in having regained a situation, which, but two days before, it was the utmost object of their hope to quit. The opening throu^^h which they had passed was called Providence Channel :. on the main land in sight, was a lofty promontory, which was called Cape Weymouth; on the north side of which is a bay named Weymouth Bay. The boats went out to fish, and returned m the afiernoon with two hundred and forty pounds of the meat of shell fish, chiefly of cockles, some of which were as much as two men could move, and contained twenty powjds of good meat : here are many curious shells, besides many species of coral. The next morning they got under sail, and stood away LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. 237 to llie N. VV. They pas'ied some small islands, to which wa-; givt^n the i\arm of Forbes's Islands, and vviiich lie about five leagues from the main, which here forms a hi^h point ihat they called Bolt Head. On the 19th they steered for an island which lay at a small di^itance from the main, and between eleven and twelve o'clock hauled round the northeast side of it. This island is about a lea^^ue in circuil, and Ihey saw up- on it fi\e of the natives, two of whom had lances in their hands; they can.e down upon a point, and having looked a litde while at the ship, retired. To the N. W. of it are several low islands and quays, which lie noi far from the main ; and to the northward and ea-^t- ward are several other highlands and shoals. The main appeared to be low and barren, interspersed with large patches of the very fine white sand which they had found upon Lizard Island, and different parts of the main. It forms a point, which was called Cape Grenville ; and between it and Boll Head is a bay, which the captain named Temple Bay. At the distance of nine leagues from Cape Grenville, in the direction of E. 5 N. lie some islands, which he called Sir George Hardy's Isles r and those which lie off the Cape he called Cockburn's Isles. At four o'clock they discovered some low islands and rocks, bearing W. N. W. and stood directly for them : at half after six they anchored on the north-east side of tiie northermost of them, at one mile distance, Q,nd in sixteen fathom. These islands lie N. W. four leagues from Cape Grenville, and from the number of birds thai they saw upon them, were called Bird Isles. The next day they passed some low sandy isles and hsoals -y the point of the main which f&rms the side of 138 LIEUTENANT COOKS- FIRST VOYAGE. (he channel, thiough which they passed on the 2 1st, U the northern promontory of ihe country, and was called York Cape. The land over the east point, and to the southward of it^ is rather low, and as far as the eye can reach, very flat, and of a barren appearance. To ihc southward of ihe Cape the shore forms a large open bay, which was called Newcastle Bay, and in which are some small low i>;lands and shoals; the land adjacent is also very low, fla!, and sandy. The land of the nor- thern part of the Cape i< more hilly, the vallies seem to be well clothed with wood, and the shore forms some small bays, in which there appeared to be good anchor- age. Close to the eastern point ot the Cape are three «malt islands, from one of which a small ledge of rocks runs out into the sea : there is also an island close to the noriheri point. The island that forms the straight or channel lhrf)ugh which they passed, lies about four miles without these, ^^hich, except two, are very small: the southermost is the larcrest, and much higher than any part of the main land. On the north-west side of this island there appeared to be good anchorage, and un shore, val- lies that promised both wood and water. These islands are distinguished by the name of York Isles. To the gouthward, and south-east, and even to the eastward and northward of them, there are several other low islands* rocks, and shoals. In the afternoon they an- chored between some islands : the main land stretched away to the S. W., the farthest point in view bore S, 75° W. Between these two points ihey could see no land, so that they conceived hopes of having, at last, found a passage into the Indian sea ; but in order to de- termine with more certainty. Captain Cook resolved to Und upon the island which lies at the southermost point LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. J39 of the pas*5age. Upon this island they had seen many of the inhabitants when they first came to an anchor, and when the captain went into the boat, with a parly of men, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, in order to go ashore, they saw ten of them upon a hill: nine of them were armed with such lances as they had been used to see, and the tenth had a bow and a bundle of arrows, which they had never seen in the possession of the natives of this country before: they also observ- ed that two of them had large ornaments of mother-of- pearl hanging round their necks. Three of these, one of whom was the bowman, placed themselves upon the beach abreast of the gentlemen, who expected that they would oppose their landing ; but when they came with- in about a musquet's shot of the beach, they walked lei- surely away. They immediately climbed the highest hill, which was not more than three times as high as the mast head, and the most barren of any they had seen. From this hill no land coald be seen between the S. W. so that the captain had no doubt of finding a channel through. The land to the north-west of it consisted of a great number of islands of various extent, and differ- ent heights, ranged one behind another, as far to the northward and westward as he could see, which could not be less than thirteen leagues. As he was now about to quit the eastern coast of New-Holland, he once more hoisted English colours, and though he had already tak- en possession of several particular parts, he now took possession of the whole eastern coast, from latitude 38° to this place, latitude 10^ S. in right ol his Majesty King George the Third, by the name of New South Wales, with all the harbours, rivers, and islands situat- ed upon it : they then tired three vollies of small arms. 2i0 LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. which were answered by the same number from the ship. Having perf(»rmed this ceremony upon the inland, which they called Possession Island, they reimbarked in their boat, but a rapid ebb tide setting N. E. made their re- tiirn to tJie vessel very difficult and tedious. The next morning tiiey saw three or four of the na- tives upon the beach gathering shell-fisli ; they discover- ed, by the help of their glasses, that they were women, and, like all the other inhabitants of this country, quite naked. They now got under sail, and at noon. Posses- sion Island bore N. 5.T*E., distant four league*, the western extremity of the main land in sight bore S. 43® W., distant between four and five leagues, and appear- ed to be extremely low, the south-we*;! point ot the lar- gest island on the north-west side of the pjssage bore N. 71*^ W. distant eight miles, and this point was call- ed Cape Cornwall : some low lands that lie about the middle of the passage, were called \ValIis\s Isles. On the 23d they steered N. W. by VV. for a small island that was just in sight. When they were near if. Captain Cook and Mr. Banks landed upon it, and found it, except a few patches of wood, to be a barren rock, the haunt of birds, which had frequented it in such num- bers, as to make the surface almost uniformly white with their dung : of these birds, the greatest part seemed to be boobies, and the Captain therefore called tiie place Booby Island. After a short stay they returned to the ship, and in the mean time the wind had got to the S. W. : it was but a gentle breeze, yet it was accompanied by a swell from the same quarter, which, with other circumstances, confirmed their opinion that they were got to the westward of Carpent.irirj, or the northern ex- tremity of New-Holland, and had now an open sea to LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 241 (he westward, which gave them great satisfaction, not only because the dangers and fatigues of the voyage were drawing to an end, but because it would no longer be a doubt whether New-Holland and New-Guinea were two separate islands, or different parts of the ^ame. The north-eafrt entrance of this passage or streight, 4ies in (he latitude of 13^ 39 'S., and in the longitude of 218" 36' W. It is formed by the main, or the northern extremity of New-Holland, on the S. E., and by con- geries of islands, which the captain called the Prince of Wales's IslandiJ, to the N. W., and it is probable that these islands extend quite to New Guinea. They dif- fer very much both in height and circuit, and many of them seemed to be well clothed with herbage and wood : tipon most, if not all of them, they saw smoke, and therefore there can be no doubt of their being inhabit- ed : il is also probable that among them there are at least as good passages as that our navigators came through, perhaps better, though better would not need to be de- sired, if the access to it from the eastward were less dangerous. To this channel or passage the captain gave the name of the ship, and called it Endeavour Streights. New Holland, or, as the captain now called the east- ern <:oast. New South Wales, is of a larger extent than any other country in the known world that does not bear the name of a continent ; the length of coast along ■which they sailed, reduced to a straight line, is no less than twenty-seven degrees of latitude, amounting to •near 20€G miles, so that its square surface must be much more than equal to all Europe. To the southward of ■33" or 3't", the land in general is low and Ir-vel; farther northward it is hilly-, but in no part can be called nioun- vo. 40. % 24-2 LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE; tainou?, and the hills and mountains, taken together, make bat a small part of the surface, in comparison with the valliesand plains. It is upon the whole rather bar- ren than f<3r(ile, yet the rising ground is chequered by woods and lawns, and the plains and vallies ate in ma* ny places covered with herbage: the soil, however, is frequently sandy, and many of the lawns and savannahs are rocky and barren, especially to the northward, where in the best spots vegetation was less vigorous than in the southern part of the country : the trees were not so tall, nor was the herbage so rich. The grass in general is high, but thin, and the trees, where they are largest, are seldom less than forty feet asunder. The men here and in other places were of a middle size, and in general well made, clean-limbed, and re- markably vigorous, active, and nimble : their counte- nances were not altogether without expression, and their voices were remarkably soft and effeminate. Theic skins were so uniformly covered with dirt that it was very difficult to ascertain their true colour: the English made several attempts, by wetting their fingers and rub- bing them, to remove the incrustations, but with very little effect. With the dirt they appear nearly as black as a Negro ; and according to their best discoveries, the skin itself is of the colour of wood-soot, or what is com- monly called a chocolate colour. Their features are far from being disagreeable, their noses are not flat, nor are their lips thick ; their teeth are white and even, and their hair naturally long and black, it is however univer- sally cropped short ; in general it is straight, but some- times it has a slight cur!. Their beards were of the same colour with their hair, and bushy and thick : they are not, however, suffered to grow long. IIEUTENANT COOK^S FIRST VOYAGE. 2i3 Both sexes, as has been already ob?;erved, go stark naked, and seem lo have no sense of indecency In dis- covering the whole body. Their principal ornament is the bone which they thrust through the cartilege that divides the nostrils from each other; as this bone^ is as ihkk as a man's finger, and between five and six inches long, it reaches quite across the face, and so effectually slops up both the nostrils that they are forced to keep their mouths wide open for Breath, and snuffle so when they attempt to speak that they are scarcely intelligible lo each other. The seamen, with some humour, called it their split- sail yard. Beside this nose-jewel, they had recklaces made of shells, very neatly cut and strung to- gether; bracelets of small cord, wound two or three limes about the upper part of their arm, and a siring of plaited human hair, about as thick as a thread of yarn, lied round the waist. Besides these, sor»e of them had gorgets of shells hanging round the neck, so as to reach across the breast. Their bodies were painted both white and red. They appeared to have no fixed habitalions> for nothing like a town or village was seen in the whole country. Their huts are built with pliable rods about as thick as a man's finger, in the form of an oven, by stick- ing the two ends into the ground^ and then covering thera with palm leaves and broad pieces of bark : the door is nothing but a large hole at one end, opposite to which the fire is made. Under these houses, or sheds> they sleep, coiled up with their heels to their head ; and in this position one of them will hold three or four per- sons. Their fish-hooks are very neatly made, and some of them are exceedingly small. Their food is chiefly fish, though liiey sometimes contrive to kill the kangaroo, x2 24-4 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOVAGK. and even birds of various kinds; notwithstanding they are so shy tl>at our navigators found it difficult to get wiehin rea< h of them with a fowlinpj-piece. They do- not appear to eat any animal food raw ; but having nO vessel in which water can be boiled, they cither broil it upon the coals, or bake it in a hole, by the help of hot stones. They produce fire with great facility, and spread it in a wonderful manner. They take two pieces of dry soft wood, one is a stick about eight or nine inches. long, the other piece is flat; the stick they shape inta an obtuse point at one end, and pressing it upon the other, turn it nimbly, by holding it between both their hands, as we do a chocolate-mill, often shifting their hands up, and then moving them down upon if, to in- crease the pressure as much as possible. By this me- thod they get fire in less than two minutes, and from the smallest spark they increase it with great speed and dexterity. They sailed on the 23d, and the next morning, as they were purcha-iing the anchor, the cable parted at about eight or ten tathom from the ring : the ship then began to drive, but they immediately dropped another anchor, which brought her up before she got more than a cablets length from the buoy; the boats were then sent to sweep for the anchor, but could not succeed. •After some labour it was recovered on the 23d, after which they got under sail, and, with a fine breeze at E. N. E. stood to the north-west. Half an hour after one, having run eleven miles between noon and that time, the boat which was ahead made the signal for shoal water ; they immediately let go an anchor, and brought the ship up with all the sails standing, and upon looking out they saw shoal water almost round them. LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. 245 fcoth wind and tide at the same time setting upon it. The ship was in six fathom, but upon sounding round her, at the distance of half a cable's length, they found scarcely two. This shoal reached from the ea«;t, round by the north and west, as far as the south-west, so that there was no way for them to get clear but that by which they came. This was another hair's breadth- escape, for It was near high-water, and there ran a short cockling sea, which must very soon have bulged the ship, ifsheliad struck; and if her direction had beere half a cable's length more either to the right or leftj she- must have struck before the signal for the shoal was made. Between tlnee and four o'clock the tide oi ebb began to make, and the captain sent the master to sound the southward and south-westward, and m the mean time, as the ship trended, he weighed anchor, and with a little sail stood (irst to the southward, and afterwards^ edging away to the westward, got once more out of danger. ^Nothing' material occurred now till September the Sd,, when at day break they saw land extending from N. by E. to S. E. at about four leagues distance, and they then kept sunding in for it, with a fre>h gale at E. S: E. and: E. by S. till nine o'clock, when being within about three or four miles o( it, and in three fathom water,, they, brought to* The pinnace being hoisted out, Captain* Cook set ofTfrom the ship with the boat's crew, accom- panied by Mr. Banks, (who also took his servants,) and •Dr. Solander, being in all twelve persons, well armed'; they rowed directly towards the shore, but (he water was so shallow ihat they could not reach it by about two- hundred yards: they waded, however, the rest of ihe^ Tva), having left two of the seamen to take care of-lhe= X, 3 246 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE, boat. Hitherto they had seen no signs of inhabitants at this place j but as scon as they got ashore ihey discover- ed the prints of human feet, wliich could not long have been impressed upon the sand, as they were below higb water mark. They walked along the skirts of the wood, and at the distance of about hundred yards from the place where they landed, they came to a grove of co- coa-nut trees, which stood upon the banks of a little brook of brackish water. The trees were of a small jgrowth, but well hung with fruit; and near them was a shed, or hut, which had been covered with their leaves, though most of them were now fallen off; about the hut lay a great number of the shells of the fruit, some of v/hich appeared to bejust fresh from the tree. At a lit- tle distance from this place they found plantains, and a bread-fruit tree, but it had nothing upon it : and having TjOW advanced about a quarter of a mile from the boat, three Indians rushed out of the wood with a hideous shOiit, at about the distance of a hundred yards; and as they ran towards them, the foremost threw something out of his hand, which fkw on one side of him, and burnt exactly like gunpowder, but made no report : the other, two instantly threw their lances; as no time was ijiow to be lost, the gentlemen discharged their pieces, which were l^-^ded with small shot. It is probable that they did not feel the shot, for, though they baked a mo- ment, they did not retreat ; and a third dart was thrown. As the gentlemen thought their farther approach might be prevented with less ri>k of life, than it would cost to defend themselves against their attack if ihey should come nearer, they loaded their pieces with ball, and fired a second time; by this discharge it is probable that some of them were wounded; however, they all ran 8 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 24-T away with great agility. The gentlemen perceiving that nolijing wbn lo be done upon friendly terms, improved this interval, in which the deslruction ol the natives was no longer necessary to their own defence, and with all expedition returned towards ilieir boat. As they were advancing along the shore, they perceived that the two men on board made signals that more Indians were com- ing down ; and before they got into the water they saw several of tl^em coming round a point, at the distance of about five hundred yards; they waded towards the boat, while the Indians remained at their station, with- out giving them any interruption. As soon as they were aboard they rowed abreast of them, and their number appeared to be between sixty and a hundred. They made much the same appearance as the New Holland- ers, being nearly of the same stature, and having their hair short cropped: like them also they were quite naked, but the colour of tlieir skin was not quite so dark. All this while they were shouting defiance, and letting off their fires by four or five at a time. What these fires were, or for what purpose intended, our na- vigators could not imagine: those who discharged thenti bad in their hands a short piece of stick, possibly a hol- low cane, which they swung sideways from them, and immediately appeared fire and smoke, exactly resem- bling those of a musket, and of no longer duration. This wonderful phenomenon was observed from the ship, and the deception was so great, that the people on board thought they had fire arms. Upon examining the weapons they had thrown, they were found to be light darts, about four feet long, very ill made, of a reed, or bam« boo cane, and pointed with hard wood, in which there were many barbs, They were dibcharged with great 5*5 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYACtr force; for though the gentlemen were at sixty yards diV lance, they went beyond them, but in what manner ihey could not exactly see: possibly the) might be shot with a bow: but they saw no bows among ihem when Ihey surveyed them from the boat, and they were in ge- neral of opinion, that they were thrown with a stick, in 4he manner practised by the New Hollanders. The land here, like that in every otiier part (if the coast, is very low, but covered with a luxuriance of wood and herb» agfe, that can scarcely be concei' ed On the 6th tliey saw land, extending from N. N. VV. to W. by N. distant between five and six leagues. On the 9di they saw land again. This, the next day, they were assured was Timor, and the last island they had .passed was Timor Laoet, or Laut*. On the IGth, they saw the small island of Rotte, and at noon the Island Scmau. A'^out ten o'clock at night ihcy observed a phenomeiion in the heavens, which in many parti^lars resembled the auroia borealis, and ,in others was very different :. it consisted of a dull reddish light, and reached about twenty degrees above the horizon ; its extent was very different ai times, but it was never Itss than eig^ht or ten points of the compass ; through and out of this passed rays of light of a brighter colour, which vanished, and were renewed nearly in the same time as those of the aurora borealis, but had no degree of the iremulous or vibratOiy motion which is observed in that phenomenon ; the body of it bore S. S. E. from the ship, and it was surveyed, without any diminution of its brightness, till twelve o'clock, when they retired io sleep. Being clear of all the islands, which were laid down in- their maps, between Timor and Juva^ thej^ steered^ a* LIEUTENANT COOK^S FIRST VOYAGE. 21-9 west course till six the next morning, when they unex- pectedly saw an island bearing W. S. W, and at first thought they had made a new discovery. They steered directly for it, and by ten oVIock were c!o>e in wkh the north side of it, when they saw houses, cocoa-nut trees^ and, to their very agreeable surprise, numerous flocks of sheep. This was a temptation not to be resisted by people in a bad state of health ; it was therefore soon de- termined to attempt a commerce with the inhabitants. The pinnace was accordingly hoisted out, and Mr,. Gore, the second lieulenant, was sent to see if there was any convenient place lo land, taking with him some triiles, as p^e^ents to the natives, if any of them should apptfar. While he was gone, ihey saw from the ship> two men on horseback, who seemed lo be riding upoiv the hills for their amusement, and ofien slopped to look at the ship. B) this they knew that the piace had beea settled by Europeans, and hoped, that the many disa- greeab[e circumstances which always attend the first establishment of commerce with savages would be avoided. In the mean time, Mr. Gore landed in a small sandy cove, near some houses, and was met by eight or ten of the natives, who, as well m their dress as their- persons, very much resembled the Malays: they werfr without arms, except the knives, which it is their cus- tom to wear in their girdles, and one of them had a jack-- ass with him : they courteously invited him ashore, and conversed with him by signs, but very little of the meaning of either party could be understood by the other. In a short lime he returned with this report, and, to their great mortification, added, that there was no an"*^ chorage for the ship. The captain sent him, however^, a second time, with both rnoney and goods, that hOc ^50 LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. wight, if possible, purchase some refreshraenls, at least for the sick ; and Dr. Solander went in the boat with him. In the mean time the captain kept standing on and ofT with the ship, which at this time was within a mile of the shore. Before the boat could land, they saw two other horsemen, one of whom was in a com- plete European dress, consisting of a blue coat, a white waistcoat, and a laced hat; tiiese people, when the boat came to the shore took little notice of her, but sauntered about, and seemed to look with great curiosity at the ship. They saw, however, olher horsemen, and a great number of persons on foot, gather round Mr. Gore's party, and, to their great satisfaction, perceived several cocoa-nuts carried into the boat, from which tiiey concluded that peace and commerce were established between them. After fhe boat had been ashore about an hour and 3 half, she made the signal for having intelligence that there was a bay to leeward, where they might anchor; they stood away directly for it, and the boat following, soon came on board. The lieutenant said, that he had seen some of the principal people, who were dressed in fine linen, and had chains of gold round their necks; he said, that he had not been able to trade, because the owner of the cocoa nuts was ab:?ent, but that about two dozen had been sent to the boat as a present, ajid that some linen had been accepted in return. The people, to give him llie ir.formaiion that he wanted, drew a map upon the sand, in which they made a rude representa- tion of a harbour to leeward, and a town near it; they also gave him to understand, that sheep, hog?, fowlsj^ and fruit, might there be procured in great plenty. At seven o'clock in the evening tney came loan anchor tIEUTEXANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 251 in the bay to which they had been directed, at about the distance of a mile from the shore, in thirty-eight fathom water, with a clear sandy bottom. Just as they got round the north point, and entered the bay, ihey disco- vered a large Indian town, or village, upon which they hoisted a jack on the fore-top-mast: soon after, to iheir great surprise, Dutch coloiir^^ were hoisted in the town, and three guns fired ; ?hev stood on, however, till they had soundings, and then anchored. The next morning they saw ihe same colours hoisted upon the beach, abrea>t of the ship ; supposing therefore that the Dutch had a settlement here, the captain sent Lieutenant Gore ashore, to wait upon the governor, or the chief person residing upon the spot, and acquaint him who they were, and for what purpose they had touched upon the coast. As soon as he came ashore, he was received by a guard of between twenty and thirty Indians, armed with musket*;, v\ ho conducted him to the town, where the colours had been hoisted the night before, carrying with them those had been hoisted upon the beach, and marching without any military re- gularity. As soon as he arrived, he was introdued to the raja, or king of the island, and, by a Portuguese in- terpreter, told him, that the ship was a man of war, be- longing to the king of Great Britain, and that she had many sick on board, for whom they wanted to purchase such refreshments as the island afforded. His majesty replied, that he was willing to supply them with what- ever they wanted, but, that being in alliance with the Dutch East India Company, he was not at liberty to trade with any other people, without having first pro- cured their consent, for which, however^ he said he would immediately apply to the Dutch agent, who was 1152 lIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGt.' the only white man upon the island. To Ihls man, who resided at some distance, a letter was immediately dis* patched, which in about three hours he answered in person. He proved to be a native of Saxony, his name Johan Christopher Lange-j he behaved with great civi- lity to Mr. Gore, and assured him that they were at li- berty to purchase of the natives whatex'er ihey pleased. After a short time, he expressed a desire of coming on board, so did the raja also, and several of his attend- ants ; Mr. Gore intimated that he was ready to attend them, but ihey desired that two of the English miglH be left ashore as hostages, and in this also they were in- ■dulged. About two o'clock they all came on board the ship, and dinner being ready, they were invited to partake of it. Both Dr. Sulander and Mr. Sporing understood Dutch enough to keep up a conversation with Mr, Lange, and several of the seamen were able to converse with such of the natives as spoke Portuguese. Theit dinner happened to be mutton, and the raja expressed a desire of having an English sheep: they had but one left, however, that was presented to him; the facility with wlwch this was procured, encouraged him to a«.k for an English dog, and Mr. Banks politely gave up his greyhound; Mr. Lange then intimated that a spying* glass would be acceptable, and one was immediately put into his hand. They said that the island abounded with buffaloes, sheep, hogs, and fowls, plenty of which should be driven down to the beach the next day, that they might purchase as many of them as they should think fit : this put them all into high spirits, and the li- quor circulated rather faster than either the Indians or Saxon could bear^ they intimated their desire to go LltUTENA^T cook's FIRST VOYAGE. 25$ away, However, before they were quite drunk, and were received upon deck, as they had been when Ihey came aboard, by the marines under arms. On the ]9lh the captain, Mr. Banks, and several of the gentlemen, went ashore to return the King's visit; but more particularly to procure some of the buffaloes, sheep, and fowls, which they had been told should be driven down to the beach. They were greatly mor lined to find that no steps had been taken to fulfil this promise; however, they proceeded to the house of as- sembly. The raja, understanding they were desirous of dining ort shore, invited them to dinner, which was rea- dy about five o'clock ; it was served in thirty-six dishes, or rather baskets, contaimng alternately rice and pork; and three bowls of earthen ware, filled with liquor, in' which the pork had been boiled: these v^ere ranged upon the floor, and mats laid round them for them to sit upon. They were then conducted by turns to a hole in the floor, near which stood a man wiih water in a vessel made of the leaves of the fan-palm, who assisted them m washing their hands. When this was done, they placed themselves round ihe victuals, and waited for the raja. As he did not come, they inquired for him, and were told that the custom of the country did not permit the person who gave the entertainment to sit down with his guests; but that, if they suspected the victuals to be po'soned, he would come and taste it. Thev immedi- ately declared thai they had no such suspicion, and de- sired that none of the rituals of hospitality mi^rht be vi- olated on their account. The prime minister and Mr. Lange were of tiieir party, and they made a most luxu- r40us meal : they thought the pork and rice excellent, and the broth not lobe despised; but the spoons, which NO. 40. Y 254 LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOVAOE. were made of leaves, were so small that few of them had patience to use them. After dinner, their wine, for which they had previously sent on board, passed brisk- ly about, and they again inquired for their royal host, thinking that though the custom of hi> country would not allow him to eat with them, he might at least share in thejoilily of their bottle j but he again excused him- self, saying, that the master of a feast should never be drunk, which there was no certain way to avoid bui by not tasting the liquor. They did nol, however, drink their wine where they had eaten their victuals ; but, as ?oon as they had dined, made room for the seamen and servants, who immediately took their places. They then took an opportunity to revive the subject of the bufifaloes and sheep. Hereupon their Saxon-Dulchman with great phlegm began to communicate to them the contents of a letter which he pretended he had received from the Governor of Concordia. He said, that after acquainting him that a vessel had steered from thence to- wards the island where they were now ashore, it requir- ed him, if such ship should apply for provisions in dis- tress to relieve her ; but not lo suffer her to stay longer than was absolutely necessary, nor to make any large presents to the inferior people, or to leave any with those of superior rank to be afterwards distributed among them : but he was graciously pleased lo add, that (hey were at liberty to give beads and other trifles in ex- change for petty civilities, and palm-wine. It was the general opinion that this letter was a fiction ; that the prohibitory orders were feigned with a view to gel mo- ney for breaking them ; and that by precluding thegen- tleu^en's liberality to the natives, this man hoped more ea;>ily to turn it into another channel. LIEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. 235 In the evening Ihey received intelligence that no buf- faloes or hogs had been brought down, and only a few sheep, which had been taken away before their people, who had sent for money, could procure it. Some lowls, however, had been bought, and a large quantity of a kind of syrup maue of the juice of the palm-tree, which, though inlinrtely superior to molasses or treacle, sold at a very low price. They complained of their disappoint- ment to Mr.Lange, who hatl novy another subterfuge ; he said, that if they had gom down to the beach them- sehes, they might have purchased what they p!eae breed, and large, but the eggs are remarkably small. The people are rather under than over the middling size ; the women especially are remarkably short and squat built : their complexion is a dark brown, and their hair universally black and iank. Ths men are in gene- ral well-made, vigorous, and active, and a greater vari- ety. in the make and disposition of Iheir features than u^ual : the countenances of the women, on the contra- ry, are all alike. The men fasten their hair up to the lop of their heads with a comb, the women tie it be- hind in a club, which is very far from becoming. Both sexes eradicate the hair from under the arm, and the men do the same by their beards, for which purpose, the bet- ter sort always carry a pair of silver pincers hanging by a string round their necks, some, however, suffer a very little hair to remain upon their upper lips, but this is sd- ■ways kept short. The dress of both sexes consists. gf cotton cloth, which, being dyed blue in the yarn, and Q60 l£EUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. not uniformly of the same shade, is in clouds or waves oF the same colour, and bad not an inelegant appear- ance. The diti'erence between the dress of the two sexes consists principally in the manner of wearing the \^■aI^t-pieL•e, f^r the women, instead of drawing the lower edge light, and leaving the upper edge loose for a pocket, draw the upper edge light, and let (he lower edge lail as low as the knees, so as ^o ibrm a petticoat ; the body-piece, instead of being passed through the girdle, is lastened under the arms and across the breast, with the utmost decency. These people bore tes- timony mat the love of finery is a universal passion, for their ornamenis were very nunicrous The houses of Savu are large in proportion to the rsnk and riches of the proprietor. Some are four hun» dred feel long, and some are not more than twenty : they are all raised Dpon posts, or j/iles, about four feet high, one end of which is driven into the ground, and upon the other end is laid a substantial floor of v\ ood, so that there is a vacant space ot four feet between the floor of the house and ilie ground. Upon thi^ floor are placed other posts or pillars, that support a roof of slop- ing sides, which meel in a ridge at the top, like those of our barns ; (he eaves of this roof, which is thatched with palm leaves, reach within two feet of the floor, and overhang it as much : the space within is generally divided length ways into thiee equal parts; the middle part, or center, i-? inclosed by a pariilion of four sides, reaching about six. feet above the floor, and one or two small room> are also sometimes taken oil from the sides, the rest of the space under the rodf is open, -o as freely to admit the air and the ligiu : the paiticular uses of these different apartments, their short slay would not per- LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 261 nit (hem lo lesrn, e?-:cept that the close room in the cen* tre was appropriated to the women. The food of these people consists ofevery tame animal in the country, of which the hoi^ holds the first place in tlieir estimation, and the horse the second ; next to the hcrse is the buffalo, next to the buffalo their poultry, and they prefer dogs and cats lo sheep and goats. They are not fond offish. The fan-palm, at certain times, is a succedaneum for all other food, both to man and beasi. A kind of wine, called toddy, is procured from this tree, by cutting the buds which are lo produce flowers, soon after their ap- pearance, and tying under them soiali baskets, made of the leaves, which are so close as to hold liquids without leaking. The juice which frickles into these vessels, h collected by persons who climb ihe trees for that pur- pose, morning and evening, and is the common drink of every individual upon the island; yet a much greater quantity is drawn off than is consumed in this use, and of the surplus they make both a syrup and coarse sugar. The liquor is called dua, or d-iac, and both th.e syrup and sugar, gula. The syrup is prepared by boiling the liquor down in pots of earthern ware, till it is sufficiently inspissated ; it is not unlike treacle in appearance, but is somevvhat thicker, and has a much more agreeable taste: the sugar is of a reddish brown, perhaps the same, with the Jugata sugar upon the continent of India. The common method of dressing food hei^e is by bolK- ing, and as fire-wood is very scarce, and the inhabitants have no other fuel, they make use of a contrivance fa save it, that is not wholly unknown in Europe, but h seldom practised, except in camps. They dig a hollovf under ground, in a horizontal direction, like a rabbit ' 'c 262 LIEUTENANT COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. burrow, about two yards long, and opening into a hole at each end, one of" which is large, and the olher small ; by the large hole ihe lire is put in, and the small one serves for a draught. The earth over this burrow i>; per- forated by circular holes, which comnuiuicate with the cavity below : and in these holes are sel earthen pots, generally about three to each fire, which are large in the middle, and taper towards the bottom, «iO ihat ihe fire acts upon a large pari of their surface. Each of ibese pots generally contains about eight or ten gallons, and it is surprising to see with how small a quantity of fire they may be kept boihng; a palm leaf, or a dry slalk, thrust in now and then, is sufftcient : in this manner they boil all their victuals, and make all their syrup and sugar. It appears, by Frazier's account of his voyage to the South Sea, that the Peruvian Indians have a contrivance of th« same kind, and perhaps it might be adopted with advan*- tage by the poor people of every country, where fuel is very dear. When this island was first formed into a civil society* is not certainly known, but at present it is divided into five principalities, or nigrees : Laai, Seba, Regefua» Timo, and Massara, each of which is governed by its respective raja. Every raja sets up in the principal town of his province, or nigree, a large stone, which serves as a memorial of his reign. Many of these stone* are so large, that it is difbcult to conceive by what means they were brought to their present station, espe- cially as it is the summit of a hill. The religion of these people, according to Mr. Lange's information, is an absurd kind of pagai,ism, every man chusing his own god, and determining for himself how he should be worshipped i so that there are almost as. LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. 263 many gods and modes of worship as people. In their morals, however, ihey are said to be irreproachable, even upon the piinciples of christianil) : no man is aN lowed more than one wife; yel an illicit commerce be- tween the siexes is in a manner unknown among them : instances of theft are very rare ; and they are so far from revenging a supposed injury by murder, that if any dif- ference arises between them, they will not so much aa make it the subject of debate, lest they should be pro- voked to resentment and ill-will, but immediately and implicitly refer it to (he determination of the raja. The boats in use here are a kind of proa. September 21, they got under sail, and stood away to the westward. On the 28ih, they steered N. W. in order to make the land of Java; and in the morning of the 3CHh, the cap- lain took into his possession the log-book and journals, at least all that he could find, of the officers, petty offi- cers, and seamen, and enjoined them secresy with re- spect to where they had been. During their run from Savu, the captain allowed twenty minutes a day for the westeily current, which he concluded must run strong at this time, especially off the coast of Java, and he found that this allowance was just equivalent to the effect of the current upon the ship. On the 2d of October they fetched close in with the coast of Java, in fifteen fathom, they then stood along the coast, and early in the afternoon the captain sent the boat ashore to try if she could procure some fruit for Tu- pia, who was very ill, and some grass for the buffaloes that were still alive. In an hour or two she returned Vvith four cocoa-nuts, and a small bunch of plaintains^ •?6* LIEUTENANT COOKS FIRST VOYAGE. which had been purcliased for a shiHing, and some herb- age for the catile, which ihe Indians not only gave them, but assisted their people to cut. The country looked like one continued wood, and had a very pleasant ap- pearance. The next morning a Dutch packet was observed, standing after them, but when the wind shifted to the N. E. she bore away. In the evening, the wind having obligt'd them to continue at anchor, one of tlve country- boats came alongside of them, on board of which was (be master of the packet. He seemed to have two mo- tives for his visit, one to take an account of the ship, and liie olher to sell them refresliments ; for in the boat were turtle, fowls, ducks, parrots, paroquets, rice-birds, Rionkies, and other articles, which they held at a very high price, and brought to a bad market, lor their Savu stock was not yete5elo expressed his wonder and delight with still less restraint, and danced along the street in a kind of extasy, examining every object with a restless and eager curiosity, which was every moment excited and gratified. One of the first things that Tupia remarked, was the various dresses of the passing multitude, concerning which he made many in- quiries; and when he was told that in this place where people of many different nations were assembled, every one wore the habit of his country, he desired that he might conform to the custom, and appear in that of Ota- heite. South Sea cloth was therefore sent for from the ship, and he equipped himself with great expedition and de.-terlty. In the mean time the captain procured an order to the superinlendant of the island of Onrust, where the ship was to be repaired, to receive her there ; and sent by one of the ships that sailed for Holland, an account of their arrival here, to Mr. Stephens, the secretary to the admiralty. Tiie expences that would be incurred by re- pairing and refilling the vessel, rendered it necessary for the captain to lake up money in this place, which he imagined might be done without difficulty, but he fojud himself mistaken ; for, afier the most diligent in- quiry, he could not find any private person, that had abi- LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. 269 llty and inclination, to advance the sum that he wanted. In this difficulty he applied to the governor himself, by a written request, in consequence of which, the sheban- der had orders to supply them with what money he should require Out of the company's treasury. When here onl)r nine days, they began to feel the fatal effects of the climate and situation. Tupia, after the flow oi spirits which the novelties of the place produced upon his first landing, sunk an a sudden, and grew every day worse and worse. Tayeto was seized with an in- flammation upon his lungs, Mr. Banks's two servants became very ill, and himself and Dr. Solander were at* tacked by fevers : in a few days almost every person^ both on board and ashore^ were sick , affected, no doubt, by the low swampy situation of the place, and the num« berless dirty canals which intersect the town in all di» rections. On the 26th they set up the tent for (he re* ception of the ship's company, of whom there was but a small number able to do duly. Tupia, of whose life they now began to despair, and who till this time had continued ashore with Mr. Banks, desired to be remov- ed to the ship, where, he said, be should breathe a freer air, than among the numerous houses which obstructed it ashore: on board the ship, however, hecould not go, for she was unrigged, aad preparing to be laid down at the careening place j but, on the 28th, Mr. Banks went with him to Cooper's island, or, as it is called here» Kuypor, where she lay,, and as beseemed pleai^ed with the spot, a tent was there pitched for him : at this place both the sea breeze and the land breeze blew directly over him, and he expressed great salisfactioa m his situ* alio&» a3 263 LIEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. November 5. Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon, fell the first sacrifice to this fatal country, a loss which was greatly aggravated by their siiuation. Dr. Solander was just able to attend his funeral, but Mr. Banks was con- fined to his bed. Their distress was now very great ; and death was every day making advances upon them, which they could by no means resist. Malay servants were hired to attend the sick, but they had so. little sense either of duty or humanity, that they could not be kept within call, and the patient was frequently obliged to get out of bed to seek them. On the 9lh they lost their Indian boy Taye(o, and Tupia was so much affected, that it was doubted whether he would survive till the next day. The bottom of the ship being now examined, was found to be in a worse condition than they apprehend- ed : yet in this condition she had sailed many hundred leagues, where the navigation is as dangerous as in any part of the world. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were so bad, that the physician declared they had no chance for recovery but by removing into the country : a house was therefore hire. The streets are spacious and hand«ome, and the banks of the canals are planted with rows of trees that make a very pleasing appearance ; but the trees concur with the canals to make the situation unwholesome. The houses are, irv general well adapted lo the climate ; they consist of one very large room or hall on the ground floor, with a door at each end, both which generally stand open: at one end a room is taken otf by a partition, where the master of the house transacts his business ; and in the middle between each end there is a court, which gives light to the hall, and at the same time increases the draught of air. From one corner of the liall the stairs go up to the floor above, where also the rooms are spacious and airy. In the alcove, which is formed by the court, the famil/ LIEUTENANT COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 273 dine; and at other limes it is occupied by the female slaves, who are not allowed to sit down any where else. The public buildings are most of them old, heavy, and ungraceful ; but the new church is not inelegant; it is built with a dome, that is seen from a great dis- tance at sea, and though the outside has rather a hea- vy appearance, the inside forms a very fine room ; it is furnished wi(h an organ of a proper size, being very large, and is most magnificently illuminated by chan- deliers. The town is enclosed by a stone wall, of a moderate height; but the whole of it is old, and many parts are much out of repair. This wall itself is surrounded by a river, which in some places is fifty, and in some a hundred yards wide : the stream is rapid, but the wa- ter is shallow. The wall is also lined within by a canal which in different parts is of different breadlh> , so ihat, in passing eilher out or in through ihe gales, it is neces- sary to cross two draw-bridges : and there is no access for idle people or strangers to walk upon the ramparts, which seem to be but ill provided with guns. In the north-east corner of the town stands the castle or citadel, ihe walls of which are both higher and thick- er than those of the town, especially near the landing- place, where there is depth of water only for boats, which it commands, with several large guns that make a very good appearance. Within this castle are apart- ments for the Governor-General and all the Council of India, to which they are enjoined to repair in case of a siege. Here are also large storehouses, where great quantities of the Company's goods are kept. Round the harbour, on the outside, lie many islands^ which the Dutch have taken possession of, and apply to 274f LIEUTENANT CQOK's FIRST VOYAGE. different uses. The country round Batavia is for some miles a conlinueil range of country houses and gard'^ns. Many of the gardens are very large, and by some strange fatality, all are planted with trees almost as thick as they can stand ; so that the country derives no advantage from its being cleared of the wood that originally cover- ed it, except the fruit of that uhich has been planted in its room. The soil is fruitful beyond imagination, and the conveniences and luxuries of life that it pro- duces are almost without number. Rice, which is well known to be the corn of these countries, and to serve the inhabitants in>tead of bread, grows in great plenty. Indian corn, or maize, is also produced here ; which the inhabitants gather when young, and toast in the ear. Here is also a great variety of kidney-beans and lentiles, be- sides millet, yams both wet and dry, sweet potatoes, and European potatoes, which are very good, but not culti- vated in great plenty. In the gardens there are cab- bages, lettuces, cucumbers, radishes, the white radishes of China, which boil almost as welt as a turnip, carrots, parsley, celery, pigeon peas, the egg plant, which, boil- ed and eaten with pepper and salt, is very delicious; a kind of greens resembling spinnagej onions, very small, but excellent ; and asparagus : besides some European plants of a strong smell, particularly sage, hysop, and rue. Sugar is also produced here in immense quantities. Also a small quantity of indigo. But the most abun- dant article of vegetable luxury here is the fruit, viz. the pine-apple, sweet oranges, pumpLmoeses, lemons, limes, mangoes, bananas, grapes, tamarinds, water-me- lons, pumpkins, papaws, gnava, apples of various kinds^ &c. &c. LIEUTENANT COOK*S FIRST VOYAGE. 275 The principal tame quadrupeds of Ihis country are horses, catile, buffaloes, sheep, goals, and hog«. Be- sides these, which are tame, they have dogs and cats, and there are among the disian* mountains d of Batavia is pleniilii'ly supplied with two kinds ol deer, and wild hogs, whicli are sold at a reasonable price by the Portu- guese, who shoot ilieni, and aie very «;ood food. Among the m(Hip.tain--, and ii^ Ihf desart parts of the island, there 'are tyg< rs, it is said, in great abundance, and some rhinoceroses ; in the^e parts also there are monkies, and Ihere are a few of them even in the neighbourhood of Batavia. Of fi^h, here is an amazing plenty; many sorts are excellent, and all are very cheap except the few that are scarce. Poultry is very good here, and in great pleniy. Wildfowl in general is scarce. Not one fifth part, even of the European Inhabitants of the town, and its environs, are natives of Holland, or of Dutch extraction : the greater part are Portuguese, and besides Europeans, there are Indians of various na- tions, and Cninese, besides a great number of negro slaves. Women, however, of all nations, are permitted to settle here, without coming under any restrictions; yet there were not, at this time, twenty women in that place that were born in Europe. The Indians, who are mixed with the Dutch and Por- tuguese in the town of Batavia, and country adjacent, are not, as might be supposed, Javanese, the original natives of the island, but natives of the various isbnds from which the Dutch import slaves, and are either such as have theuiselves been manumized, or the descendants of those who formerly received manumission; and they are all comprehended under the general name of Qian- 276 LIEUTENANT COOk's FTKST VOYAGE. slam, or Isalam, signifying Believers of the true Faith. In (he article of loorl they are remarkabl)' temperate, notwithstanding their feasts are plentiful, and, according to their manner, magnificent. The principal solemnity among them is a wedding, upon wiiich occasion both the families borrow as many ornaments of gold and sil- ver as they can to adorn the bride and bridegroom, so that their dresses are very showy and magnificent. The feasts that are given upon these occasions, among the rich, last sometimes a fortnight, and sometimes longer ; and, during this time, the man, although mar- ried on the first day, is, by the women, kept from his wife. The language that is spoken among all these people, from what place soever they originally came, is the Ma- lays at least it is a language so called, and probably it is a very corrupt dialect of that spoken at Malacca. Every little island indeed has a language of its own, and Java has two or three. Their women wear as much hair as will grow' upon their head, and to increase the quantity, they use oils, and other preparations of various kinds. Both sexes constantly bathe themselves in the river at least once a day, a practice which, in this hot country, is equally necessary both to personal delicacy and health. They sailed fronri hence on the 27th of December. On the 29th they fetched a small island under the main, in the midway between Batavia and Bantam, called Maneater*s Island. On New Year's day they stood over for the Java shore. Onthe 5(h of January, 1771, they anchored under the south-east side ot Prince's Island in 18 fathom, in order to recruit their wood and water, and procure refresh- LIEUTENANT COOk's PinST VOYAGE. 277 ments for the sick, many of whom were now become much worse llian they were when they left Batavia. The captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, now went ashore, and were met upon the beacii by some Indian?, who carried them immediately to a man, who, they said, was their King. Afler they had exchanged a few com- pliments with his Majesty, they proceeded to business ; but in settling the price of turtle they could not agree: this, however, did not discourage ihera, as they made no doubt but that they should buy them at their own price in the morning. As soon as they parted, the Indians dispersed, and the gentlemen proceeded along the shore in search of a watering-place, and happily they found water very conveniently situated. The next morning, while a party was employed In filling water, they renewed their traffic for tui'Ie : at first the Indians dropped '.heir demands slowly, bat a- bout noon they agreed to lake the price that was offer- ed, so thai, before night, they had liirtle in pleniy. In the evening, Mr. Banks went to pay his respects to the King, at his palace, in the middle of a rice fidd, and although his Majesty was busily employed in dressing his own supper, he received the stranger very graci- ously. On the 1 1 th the gentlemen went on shore In the even- ing, to see how the people who wer^- employed in wood- ing and watering went on, and were informed that an ax had been stolen. As the pa>;ing over (hi-v fault mig!it encourage the commission ol o!h«'rs ol 'he same kind, application was imaiedistei) made to i!k* Kng, who, afler some altercation, proodsed 'hat the a^e should be restored the next aiotning : accorduigl) it wa^ brought by a man who pretended inat the ihiijf being alraid^f a NO. 41. 2 a 278 LIEUTENANT COOK's FIRST VOYAGE. discovery, had privately left it at his house in the night. They continued to purchase between two and three hundred weight of turtle in a day, besiiles fowls and other necessaries; and in the evening ot the 13ih, hav- ing nearly completed their wood and water, Mr. Banks -went ashore to take leave of his Majesty, to whom he had made several trifling presents, and at parting gave him two quires of paper, which he graciously received. In the morning of the 15lh they w^eighed, with a light breeze at N. E. and stood out to sea. Prince's Island is small and woody, situated in the western mouth of the Straight of Sunda. It was for- merly much frequented by the India ships of many na- tions, but especially those of England, which of late have forsaken it on account of the bad water, as it is said ; yet, (i^ays our author,) " though the water is brack- ish, if it is filled at the lower part of the brook, yet higher up, it will be found excellent/' The foAls here are large and cheap, also small deer, and many kinds of fish, which the natives sell by hand, and were found tolerably cheap. Cocoa-nuts, plantains, pine-apples, water-melons, jaccas, pumpkins, rice, yams, and other vegetables, may be had here at a very reasonable rate. The inhabitants are Javanese, whose Raja is subject to the Sultan of Bantam. The houses of their town are built upon piles or pil- lars, four or five feet above the ground: upon these is laid a floor of bamboo canes, which are placed at some diUance from each other, so as to leave a free passage for the air from below : the walls are also of bamboo, which are interwoven, hurdlewise, with small sticks, that are fastened perpendicolarly to the beams which LIEUTENANT COOk's FIRST VOYAGE. 279 form the frame of the building : it has a sloping roof, wliich is so well thatched with palm-leaves, that neither the sun nor the rain can find entrance. The ground over which this building is erected is an oblong square. In (4ie middle of one side is the door, and in the mid- dle between that and the end of the house, towards the left hand, is the window : a partition runs out from each end towards the middle, which, if continued, would divide the whole floor into two equal parts longitudinally, but they do not meet in the middle, so that an open- ing is left over-against the door : each end of the house, therefore, to the right and left of the door, is divided into two rooms, all open towards the passage, from the door to the wall on the opposite side : in that next the door to the left hand, the children sleep ; that opposite to it, on the right hand, is allotted to stran- gers; the master and his wife sleep in the inner room on the left hand, and that opposite to it is the kitchen. There is no difference between the houses of the poor and the rich, but in the size; except that the royal pa-, lace, and the house of a man whose name is Gundang, the next in riches and influence to the King, is walled with boards, instead of being wattled with sticks and bamboo. The natives all speak the Malay language, and are in general honest. On the 15lh they anchored ofl^ the Cape of Good Hope, in seven fathom, with an oozy bottom. The captain immediately waited upon the Governor, who told him that he should have every thing the country af- forded. Having lain here to recover the sick, procure stores, and perform several necessary operations upon the ship 2 a2 280 LIEUTENANT COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. and rigging, till llie iSlh of April, the captain tlien got all the sicic on board, .several of whom weie still in a dangerous? state, and having taken leave of the Gover- nor, he unmoored the next morning, and got ready to sail. Cape Towrr consists of about a thousand houses, neat- ly built of brick, and in general whited on the outside ; they are, however covered only wilh thatch, (orth of the climate, is cured to admiration i arrack, brandy, and spirits, which are all excellent and reasonable. On the '22d of November both ships took their de- parture from the Cape, and proceeded on their voyage, vs ithout any thing remarkable till the 28lh, when it be- gan to blow a storm, but as the wind s(ood fair, both ships continued their course to the southward, and being already as far to the south as any ship had ever yet sail- ed in that quarter, all beyond was as utterly unknown as if they had been the first ships that had ever navi- gated the South Seas. December 22, they came in sight of so many islands of ic?, that it was with the utmost difficulty that they could avoid them. Here they first observed flocks of penguins hovering about the ice-islands. Some of these islands appeared to be three or four miles in circumfer- ence, some more; but by far the greatest number ap- peared like the ruins of antient towns, or the fragments of gothic castles. As the air was clear, and the weather fine, several, in both ships, diverted themselves with .», f88 LIEUTENANT COOK a SECOND VOYAGE. shooling penguinSj and ihe sailors had no less pleasure in eating them than the gentlemen had in killing them, for the officers were not } et come to relish such rank food. On the 26th they were every where surrounded with islands of ice, insomuch that it was with the utmost dan- ger that they continued their course. The crews of both ships were in perfect health, but the fatigue of constantly luffing up and bearing away, to avoid being dashed to pieces, was not borne without reluctance. Thi-;, however, was not all, for being entangled among the ice, their water bad, and wilbal beginning to run short, it was judged necessary to gather up the pieces of loose ice, in order to melt it, to supply the place of that which was tal^en in at St. Jago, which was now become so disagreeable, that the strongest stomachs re- coiled at using it. Though this proved an excellent succedaneum, and was in truth a most sensible refresh- ment both to the officers and seamen, yet the gratifica- tion was dearly purchased, by the pain of those whose lot it was to procure it; for the pieces of ice being many of them so large, that two men were hardly able to lift them into the boat, it became absolutely neces- sary for them to plunge their arms into the water, in order to get their hands under them to obtain a pur- chase, whereby their arms ia a very short S[>ace of time put on the appearance of icicles, and became so numb- ed, as for the present to be totally incapable of use. Happily the weather proved moderate, so that between the Island the iCth of January, 1773, they had gather- ed up such a quantity of ice, as when melted in the coppers, filled a!i the empty casks v\iih excellent water. On the 14-th they parsed the antarctic circle, lat. 66'' LIEUTENANT COOIc's SECOND VOYAGE. 28? 30'. and in long. 37° £• and now the islands of ice be- gan lo increase in size, but diminish in number, and the loose ice to be larger in dimensions, and more danger- ous to pass. The sun now shewed himself about twelve at night, and as they advanced the stars disappeared, and the sun continued to cheer them wiih his light till Iheir return again to the same latitude, but to their great mortification, the islands of ice, which had hitherto af- forded them a passage, were converted into whole fields : and, on the 17th, they found iheir passage totally closed up,* and were obliged to change their course, first to the north-westward, and then to the north-eastward. On the 17th Captain Cook made the signal lo his con- tort to tack, and to steer north-westward. In this course many interruptions happened, hard gales came on, the seas shortened, the ships by straining became leaky, the rigging, by being frozen, was continually snapping in one part or other, and it was with the ut- most difficulty the ships could keep company. This day they saw several whales; On the 29th a storm came on, which separated the ships. It was attended with a prodigious fall of rarn, every drop of which was of the size of a common pea, the sea rose to a tremendous height, and broke over the bows to the height of the yard-arms. The Adventure, after endeavouring in vain to recover the Resolution, had no other means of again meeting with her but by re- • Our navigators were now within 13" or 14<», a&far to the touthward, or that part of the northern hemispliere where Com- modore Phipps was ice-bound the fojlowing year, and vihcre hi* •scape was very providential. SO. 41. . 2 5 290 LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. pairing to the first place appointed to rendezvous, la Charlotte Bay, on the island of New Zealand. On the 1st of Marcli, having made no discovery of land in all this disagreeable traverse, Captain Furneaux was determined to steer to Van Dieman*s land, there to lake in water and repair their shattered rigging. On the 9lh they came in sight of that island, the wea- ther being much warmer, and the sea calmer; and, on the lOLh, they got within three miles of a fine bay, which they at first mistook for Henry Frederick's bay, and, tinder that mistake, hoisted out the large cutler, and sent her in shore to examine the soundings for anchor- age for the ship, and to endeavour to find a watering- place, and to bring with them an immediate supply. About noon the boat returned, and brought word that they had found both wood and water, but that the lat- ter was far from being of the best ; that the wood was plenty, and the anchorage safe; that they had seen none of the natives, nor signs of any ; and that the coun- try, as far as they could see, was uninhabited, or at least uncultivated. The captain, on this intelligence, came to, and moored ship. On the Tith the boats were all properly manned, and a guard of marines sent or: shore to protect the different parlies that were employed in culling wood and filling water. Here they found trees of an incredible height and size. On the 15lh, in the morning, they unmoored, and about nine took their departure from the bay, which they now named Adventure's Bay; it not appearing that any European vessel had ever before anchored there. It lies in lat. 33° 23' S. long. I'^l^ 37 ' E. Though during their stay they had seen none of the na- 5 LIEUTENANT COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. 291 tives, yet, as they coasted along shore, they observed many fires in the night, and some cultivated fields in the day. On the 22d the Adventure met with a hard gale, at- tended with thunder, lightning, and rain. The next day the storm abated, and fine weather succeeded. The weather began to alter again on the 3d of April, when, in the morning, the man from the mast head called out, land : which, upon a nearer approach, they knew to be the land between Rock Point and Cape Farewel. On the 7lh the Adventure came to, in ten falhoni V, 3ter, and next day they moored a cable eacli way. On the 5th three canoes came alongside, with fif- teen Indians, of both sexes, all of them armed with battle-axes, and with other ofl^enslve wecipons, niade of hard wood, in the form of our otficers' spontoon?, about four feet in length, but neither bows nor arrows. The men had besides javelin"?, or spears, between twenty and thirty feet long, made of the same hard wood with which their battle-axes were formed. They had no clothes, except a sort of mat wrapt round their shoul- ders, and tied about their middles, with a girdle made of grass. Both men and women had a mosl savage ap- pearance, and were very unvviljing to trust themselves on board. Captain Furneaux made them j^resenis and by signs invited them to trade; they accepted the pre- sents, and some ot them took courage and came upon deck; at the same time several of the sailors went down into their canoes, in one of which they discovered the head of a man, which, by its bleeding, seemed to be fresh cut off; the sailors expressing a desire to be more particularly satisfied, the Indians that remained in the 2 B 2 $92 LIEUTENANT COOK*S SECOND VOYAGE. canoes, with surprising dexterity, instantly conveyed It out of sight ; and those on board observing the disco- very, left the ship precipitately, with visible marks of displeasure. The next day five canoes came alongside the ship, with about forty Indians, to trade. They brought fish, which the ship's company purchased at a cheap rate. Having disposed of all their cargoes about noon, tiiey went away seemingly in great good humour. The weather continuing fair, and the Indians friend- ly. Captain Furneaux and officers were preparing to go ashore on the 1 2th, when no less than ten canoes came paddling down the sound. They counted one hundred and twenty natives, of both sexes, all of them armed as before. When they came alongside, they seemed to express a desire to be admitted on board ; but the cap- tain, not liking their countenance, gave orders that a few only should be admitted at a time; and even these behaved so rudely, that the sailors were obliged to turn them out, it having appeared that they came with a de« sign to make themselves masters of the ship. Every day, during the remainder of the month, par- ties of the natives came to traffic. The sick recovered fast, and the men were permitted by turns to go on shore. On the 1 8th of May, the Resolution was seen at Jackson's Point, worki'^i up to the Sound, and at seven at night she came at. j moored just by the Adven- ture. The pleasure the ships companies felt at their meeting, can only be conceived by those who have been themselves in like circumstances; each were eager to learn the others success, and each as eager to relate as the others were to hear. It would be a mere repetition of the Adventure's dis- LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE.' 293 tres.ses, to particularize the effects of the boisterous weather that were felt by the crew of the Resohilion on this traverse; being sometimes surrounded with islands of Ice, out of which they could only extricate them- selves by the utmost exertion of their skill in seaman- ship; sometimes involved in sheets of sleet and snow, and in mists, so dark that a man on the forecastle could not be seen from the quarter-deck ; sometimes the sea rolling mountains high, while the running tackle, made brittle by the severity of the frost, was frequently snap- ping, and sometimes rendered immoveable by the accu- mulation of ice and snow. Amidst the hardships of such a navigation, there is nothing so astonishing as that the crew continued in perfect health, scarce a man be- ing so ill as to be incapable of duty. They were there- fore enabled to keep the sea till reduced to a very scanty portion of water; and Captain Cook, despairing of finding any new land, and fully satisfyinor himself of the nonexistence of any continent in the quarter which he had traversed, at length found it necessary to direct his^ course to 'Charlotte Sound (the place appointed for the ships to rendezvous, in case of separation), but v^'as not able to effect his purpose. On the 22d of March, how- ever, having seen no land from the 22d of November^ when he left the Cap?;;, he came in sight of the southern- most part of New ZealahL- ihat island being divided in the middle by a narrow sound, which gives name to the harbour appointed for the place of rendez'. ous. On the- 25lh they made land ; but the wind proving contrary,, they were obliged to stand off all night. Finding in the morning the impossibility of bearing down to C];arlotle Sound, Captain Cook gave orders la steer to Dnik)? 294 LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. Bay,* where they found a harbour so bold, that they' ran close in shore, and steadied the ship by dropping an anchor short, and fastening a large bow-line to a tree on the land. A party was immediately sent out to fish, who soon returned, having caught as many as were enough for a meal for the whole ship's company. On the 2olh the small cutter was sent out, properly armed, in search of a convenient place to wood and water; and having discovered a cove, in which there was a fine run of water, and wood enough to supply a fleet, they shifted their station, and moored the ship in that cove so near the shore, that for an easy communi- cation with llie land, ihey erected a temporary stage, one of the chief supports of which grew right out from the beach. On the 27 th an Indian came to the mouih of the cove, but was afraid to enter. There were four or five Indi- ans in it, who just peeped in to look at (he ship, and hastily departed. After dinner. Captain Cook, accom- panied by Mr. Foster, and attended by some of his offi- cers, having ordered out the cutler, followed the course which the Indians seemed to take, and soon discovered the place of their habitation, whichj however, they had deserted. It was a wretched hut, made of the bark and boughs of trees, and in it they found a fish ready roast- ed, and wrapped up in leaves, and a net with which the fish was caught. On the 3d of April, as the captain, attended only by * Our readers may recollect that our navigator, in the preced- ing vojage, first discovered and thus named this bay, but he did not visit it till now. LIEUTENANT COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. £_ 5 the boat's crew, was taking his survey as usual among the islands, he perceived an aged Indian standing upon a point of iand that projected a little way into the sea, and observing his motions, took notice that he seemed to wave a bough which he held in his hand, as an invi- tation for the boat to approach the shore. The captain, who was totally unprepared for resistance, was yet un- der no apprehensions of mischief, from the friendly ap- pearance of the old man ; and fearless of danger, caused the boat's crew to put him on shore without a compa- nion. As soon as he was landed, the Indian came for- ward, and saluted him, by grasping him by the arms, and pressing him face to face. He was accompanied by a young woman, who held a kind of spear in her hand, full eighteen feet long, and by two elderly wo- men with three or four children. They seemed to be one secluded family, and, by their behaviour, not wholly destitute of humanity. They were all habited nearly alike. Their hair, which was of a shining black, was tied in a knot upon the crowns of their heads. Their apparel was uniformly a piece of cloth or matting, tied round the middle. The captain gave him to understand that they came there only to refresh, and to repair their vessel, and that they had with them some things of the manufacture of their country, which they would gladly exchange for what things were in common use in his. The captain then pointed to the boat, and endeavoured to persuade the old man, with his family, to enter, which they all seemed to decline ; and, in his turn, the old In- dian pointed to the border of a wood, on an eminence at a small distance from the shore, which commanded an extensive prospect of the main ocean, and taking hold of the captain's arm, offered to conduct him thither. 2^' LIPUTKNANT COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. which the captain declined. The captain having only a few necklaces in his pocket, which he seldom went without, placed one about each of the women*s necks, with which they were well pleased, and departed, offer- ing in exchange the weapons they held in their hands, which the captain very politely refused. Mr. Foster being told by the captain what had hap- pened, was very desirous of seeing and conversing with the old Indian at ihe place of his abode, and the cap- tain, to gratify him, appointed a day for that purpose. In the mean time, great pains were taken to prevail with the old man and his family to come on board the ship, but it was afterwards discovered that some ceremo- nies were wanting to ratify the peace. The Indian had brought his green bough, and presented it to the cap- tain, but the captain had omitted to present a green bough in return. This being understood, when the cap- tain went next to survey, he took care to place him- self in full view of the Indian's place of abode, and, as he had supposed, the old man came again to the sea- side. The captain having prepared a bough on pur- pose, upon his approach waved it, and immediately rowed to land. The Indian, on iiis landing, embraced him, and having a bough in his hand, made a long- speech, which, though not intelligible, was yet deliver- ed with so much grace and dignity, as would have done honour to an European orator. They then exchanged boughs, and the old man made great professions of friendship, giving the captain at the same time to under- stand that ail manner of distrust was now at an end. When the old man came first on board, he was at- tended only by one daughter, who was young and live- ly. The captain received him with great cordiality. LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. 297 and tlie Indian seemed highly delighted, inspecting and admiring every thing that was shewn him ; both he and his daughter were invited to eat, but they declined that civility. Of all the arts the old man saw the people employed on board, none seemed to strike him so much as the facility with which the saivyers cut out their plank from the solid tree ; he was so pleased with that opera- tion, that he w^as very desirous to take the pitman's place himself; and being permitted so to do, but not succeeding to his wish in the performance, he soon gave out; but could not be diverted from attending to the sawyers preferably to any of the other handicrafts. On this part of the island, which was the most sou- therly, and consequently the coldest and most unpromis- ing, the inhabitants were but few, and lived in continual terror. The country at a little distance from the shore being rude, woody, and mountainous, was their chief security against the incursions of their northern coun- trymen, who, if they can take them by surprise, carry them off in like manner as the savage beasts of ihe fo- rest carry olf their prey when impelled by hunger. This very naturally accounts for the deserted condition in which our navigators found this part of the country ; for though it abounded in fish, it was destitute of every other necessary of life, wood and water excepted. There were neither fowls nor animals, save sea-fowls, of which last the natives were not dexterous enough to avail themselves, and they had no other means of sup- plying their want of bread, but by bruising the inner rind of a certain tree, and roasting it to eat with their fish. On the 1 9th Captain Cook and Mr. Foster took a lour up the country, and in their way visited the old man 293 LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. and his family at their new habitation on the skirt of the wood, and were welcomed by them in a manner tbey did not expect. In less time than could well be ima- gined, they all appeared clean dressed in their manner, a fire was made by rubbing two sticks together* and they began dressing fish in a peculiar manner, intreating their guests at the same time to stay and eat ; the fish they intended for the strangers was differently dressed from that ealen in common by themselves. Having prepared t.he fire, they made a kind of bag of a broad leaved sea-weed, in which they placed a fish about thg size of a small cod : this fish, thus inclosed, they placed upon a kind of stage made ot hard wood in the nature of a gridiron, and underneath they supplied live coals as often as those first put under became deadened by th« droppings from thesea-weed; this they continued todotill the fish within became brown as if baked in an oven ; and then they offered it to the strangers in clean leaves ga- thered fresh from the trees. Their sauce was a sea- weed, which, it was supposed, served them both for salt and vinegar. The gentlemen declined the invita- tion with regard to eating, but were much plea-ed with the neatness of their cooking. The next day, the gentlemen being at a considerable distance from the ship, surveying the different islands in the bay, and in sounding the depths, and securing a free passage for the ship as soon as she should be in a condition to sail, they observed a company of Indians, who threatened hostilities by brandishing their lances. Their threats, however, had no other efl^ect than hasten- • Sec Captain Couk's First Vojage, chapter 4, LIEUTENANT COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE, 299 ing the pinnace to approach the land. The captain, with only a sheet of white paper in his hand, jumped ashore; and, after narrowly escaping being struck with a lance which was thrown at him by a young warrior, continued advancing till he reached a tree, from whence having broken a bough, he made towards the natives, who were but few in number, and who seemed in a great measure to have vented their rage in the first attack. They met hira with boughs, which they dropped at his feet, and he instantly dropped his upon theirs. Peace being in this manner concluded, an exchange of some articles took place, and the captain made presents to the women of such trifles as they were most likely to be pleased with, and invited them to follow him to the pinnace. He was no sooner embarked than they all came down to the water's edge, and being shewn se- veral articles of small value, they fancied most of them, and were gratified each with what he liked best. On the 28th the tents on shore were struck, and the next day they were under sail with a fine breeze. May the 1st they weighed anchor in expectation of taking advantage of a breeze of wind that sprung up about nine in the morning ; but that proving con- trary, they stretched from shore to shore without mak- ing any considerable way, and in the evening turned in- to a little cove and cast anchor. Here they caught abundance of fish, and killed some water fowl. The shore was so bold, that in turning into the cove the en- sign-staff was entangled among the trees, and had it not been stronger than the branches that encumbered it, the ship's course must infallibly have been stopped. The SOC) LIEUTENA^CT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. boughs, however, gave way, and they cast anchor close by llie shore. On the nth they got clear of Dusky Bay. As the ships had no intercourse with any of the natives but one family, little or nothing can be said of their manners. Other inhabitants there certainly were, but not in consi- derable numbers. The captain, in circumnavigating the northern and southern divisions of the island, had alrea- dy remarked the different dispositions of the inhabitant* in the ditierent parts of it. In some he found them fierce and bloody, hostile and irreconcileable ; in other places friendly, and ready to enter into traffic ; at a dis- tance from these, the people they saw seemed indiffer- ent and incurious, and here, though the inhabitants must know where they lay, scarcely any of them for more than a month came to visit them. What Dusky Bay most abounds in is fish. They found here five different ducks, and soon after their arrival, while clearing the woods to set up their tents, they saw a strange four- footed animal about the size of a cat, of a mouse co- lour, with short legs. On the 17 th, (having met with nothing In their pas- sage worth relating,) they came in sight of the western entrance of Charlotte Sound; but to their great asto- nishment found themselves surrounded with water- spouts, some of them not more than three or four hun- dred yards from the ship^s course, and having but little wind to clear them, were in the utmost terror, dreading their effects. It happened, however, providentially, that none of them broke till the ship had reached the Sound, where she cast anchor about seven at night with* in two miles distance of her consort, the Adventure^ LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. 301 which, in ihe morning, she found almost in readiness to sail. They had now ranged an unfrequented sea, from the first degree of eastern longitude (to which they had re* turned after directing their course to the southward from the Cape of Good Hope) to the I67lh degree of the same longitude, and having kept beyond the 4-5lh degree south latitude, and within the limits of the 50iti, without once seeing each other, or discerning the least appear- ance of land, it may be affirmed with certainty tliat no continent exists within those limits, and that all the con- jectures concerning a Terra Incognita Australis, have not the least foundation in truth. They were frequently visited by parties of the na* tives> some of whom enquired about Tupia, and seemed much concerned when informed ol his death. On the morning of July the 2d they broujjht a large supply oi fish, when Captain Cook presented a youth, at the re- quest of his father, with a shirt, which lie put on. He was so pleased with his dress that he went all over the ship to show himself, when a ram-goat, (perhaps of* fended with the figure he cut,) gave him a butt with his horns, and threw him on the deck. His shirt having been thu5 dirtied, he complained bitterly to his father of the unkind ire itment he received (turn Goury ihe gr^at dog; for all the quadrupeds on board the vessel were called by the natives dogs. As the winter was now far advanced in that climate* it became necessary to hasten their departure, in order to pursue their discoveries, as it was ihoughi, in warmer climates. With this view, both ihips s-^ppiied them- selves with as much wild celery and other wholesome- NO. 41, 2c 1302 LIEUTENAKT COOK^S SECOND VOYAGE.. greens as -the :peopIe employed in that service could ga- ther, and the ships conveniently slow. On the 4th they celebrated his Majesty's birlh- ^ay w-iih :greal rtrjoicings. The marines \vere drawn up OH shore, and fired i« honour of ihe day i and t-he e\'ening -concltided with bonfires and fireworks, U) (he great astonishment of the Indian spectators. On the 7th both ships 'ct sail; but instead of steering an easterly and norlh-ea'ey <:arae into the old course between the 47lh and 48(h degrees of south latitude; but here they found ibe weather so rigorous aud intolerably- cold, (hat in latitude 47" 26'S. longitude 186" 32' E. they chang- ed their course E. by N. on June the i'6ih, which soon brought (hem into a warmer climate. On the 27lh they found thcmselv-es in Jat. 42° 23* fong. li^e*^ 30' E. in which direction they continued to sail with lime or no vaiialion till the \Mh of July, when the weailier, which, fiom the time of changing their course to that day, had proved moderate, began to al- ter ; «lrong gales came on, and what was still worse, the scurvy began to shew itself on board the Adventure, and in a short time disabled half her men. In all this K)ng run tl>ey never had once sight of land ; so that ■now they had ranged more than half the souihern he- misphere-til various parallels, but not beyond any known tracks, and except Van Deiman's Land, and New-Zea- land, they had seen nothing but sky and sea.f On the 16tt| they again changed their course E. N. E, t'tll they came into a still milder climate; and on the 20th they were happy in having moderate breezes and fair weather. rifcUTENANT COOK''s SECOKD VOYAGE. 2^)^* August the 1st, (he scurvy had prevailed so niucii oit hoard the Adventure, that the men wh(!> remained ill; Reahh were obliged to do double duty : and this wa>^ the more remarkable, as there were but two men ill orv hoard the Resolution, one of a consumption, l!ie other of the rheumatism. The Adventure liad lost her cook by death, and there being no man to be spared on board that ship, one WiUiara Chapnyan, an ohV seaman on buard the Resolution, was appointed i»v his room. On the 1 l(h they discovered three small lo-vv Island* bearing W. S. W. distant about three leagues. The Hcxt morning the Resolution made the signal for land, and was answered by the Adventure, when they saw a small low island surrounded by a chain of rocks, on which the Resolution was near strikinor before she dis* covered her danger. Every day now brought them in sight of small islands,. of which Tupia Is said to have laid down a plan of more than one hundred of his own know- ledije, most of them within the tropics. On the 15th they came in sight of Osnaburgh Island,^ and the same day came in sight of Qlaheite to thiir great joy^ On the 1 6th, the weather being fair and calm, abQiifc eleven o'clock in the forenoon the current carried them closs in shore upon a reef of rocLs, on which the Reso- Jution struck several times, but received no material da^ mage. The Adventure came to with the coasting an- chor, and lioisled out lier boats,.and got two small an-.- chors and hawsers to warp her off shore; but in warp^ • FJKt discovered by Captaiu Wallis.— See his Vovage. 304< Llt^UTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. ing both hawsers broke, and they lost both anchors ; ab:)Ut six in Ihe evening (hey slipped (heir coas(ing ca- ble, and came to sea wi(h the Resolution. The Reso« iulion had likewise grounded, and had been obliged to cut her cable to get clear. The next day both ships anchored in Oaiiipiha Bay a( the north side of the isUnd ; a great number of the Indians surrounded the ship< on their first approaching the shore, and when they were made to understand that they came from Britain, they cried oul, Banlcs and Solander, their old friends, neither i>( wh'Om being twi board, the captains shewed them- selves ro the populace, who soon remembered them. Tijey biought iheir boats loaded with fruits, but neither l)og« nor fowls. Tents were now erected, and the sick people frora the Adventure carried on siiore, who recovered fast. While the vessels continued in this station, (which probably was chosen as less exhausted of live-stock than that where (he Endeavour had lain so long in her for- mer voyage) the natives were friendly, and snpplied the siiips plentifully wiih fruits ; but bogs and poultry were hardly to be purchased at any rate, nor indeed were any to be seen, except such as were brought in presents for th'^ captains and gentlemen on board. The gentlemen occasionally went on shore, and they both visited and received visits from Otao, king of Opar- ree. At Oparree tiiey were conducted to (he tliealre, where they were entertained with a dramatic heava or p'ay, similar to what Captain Cook saw in his first voyage. On the 21st of August the sh.ips prepared to shift their stations ; and on the 2jlh Ihey cast anch.or in Port Koyal harbour. Here the chief articles of trade were hatch- rrE'U-TENAKT- coqk's' second voyags» 5^' ets^k-nlves, scissars, razors, comb.-;, looking-glasj^es, ali sorts of nails and iron, wiiile slone bead?,- white shirts* &c. Grand necklacos, ear-rings and ariineial flowers^. Ihey- paid little regard to. It is- remarkable, that th-^ only animals our voyagers- saw upon this part of the island, (a few hogs and dogs excepted) were rat^, and : these swarmed the most wi^ere the island was most iniia- bited; indeed, they seemed to be cherished by the inha- bitants, who often fed them with fruit, and. instead oi destroying them, kept them-'tame about their houses as we do c^s< No sooner were the ships moored in thr« harbour than all hands were set to work in different employ jnent^. The astronomer's tent and apparatus were set up o» shore, where the captains of both ships chiefly attend- ed-. Mc Foster went abroad every day in search ot new productions;, the armourers anil carpenters were busied in repairing, the coopers in cleaning and ne^v- hooping-the casks ; the waterers in filling them-; and the woodmen In felling wood : in short, every person was employed, and not a moment was lost in fitting out liie' ships for compleating their voyage. The ships being repaired, the water and wood- slowed - onboard, the sick recovered, ai?d the tents struck, about four in the afternoon of September the ist they unmoor- ed and came to sail. The reasons for thu* suddenly quitting their station were, because no hogs were to be purchased, and the sailors in general were so taken vviili the deligblsof the place, and so smitten with tbecharms of their mistresses, that it was apprehended many would - have secreted themselves on shore, and quitted the ship"*, had they imagined that the time of their departure had been. so near. Soon after Ibey gpl under sail, a young i3 C 3 306 LTEVtE^TA^'t cook's SEC0"ND VOTAGf. iT^an, named Poreo, came and solicited Captain Cook to take him with him, lo which he consented. On (he 2d of September they came lii sight of Hua- heine, off which they cast anchor the same night. Ear* Jy in (he morning, in working into Ovvharre Road, the -Adventure missed stays, and backed astern upon a reef of rocks on the larboard side, in going in ; but by the assistance of the Resolution's boais, added to their own, they got off with very httle damage. They then warp- ed into the bay, and moored ship with the sraaii bower and stream anchors, and were soon joined by the Reso- lution, In this harbour strict orders were issued that none of tiie men should trade for hogs or fowls. Tljis wa;erabrS^onditioh m which he had been left by the robbers. The captain, pointing to Mr. Spearman, and addressing himself lo the royal guests, gave them to understand that the gen- Ifeman who stood before them liad been cruelly used by a company of their people, and that he had lost both his cioaths and his anriS ; at the same time he insisted that strict orders should immediately be issued for ap- prehending l!ie thieve>, and for restoring every thing tiiey had taken away, even to the minutest article: he added, that they must consent lo be his hostages till jAislice was done upon the offenders. This spirited measure produced the desired effect. The robber* were immediately pursued and taken. They had al- ready parted the boDly, and each brought hack w hat had fallen to iiis share. Bjing brought on board in or- dx;r to be punished, they were bound and stripped. It is impossible to de^ribe the terrors expressed in their countenances on this occasion ; however, just as they apprehended the hand of t!ie executioner was to be lift- ed up against them, they were released, a'.id preserted to Mr. Spearman, beiore whom they crouclied with such different emotions of tear and joy as can only be con- ceived by those who have been eye-witnesses of their different gestures, Mr. Spearman raised tliem up, and presented them unhurt to their Majesties, who received them with great joy and gratitude, loading the ships with present*. after tljey were released ; for they were 308 LlEUTtHANT cook's SECOND^ VaVACa. lUtle less terrified, while in confinement, than the crlroi*- naJs who had committed the offence. After this adventure, the ships prepared to sail, in order to visit Ulietea, an island wiihin sight, and much more considerable than Huaheine.. Jyst as they were- ready to depart an Indian came on board the Adventure, named Omai, a native of UlieteD, where he had some properly, of which he had been plundered by the peo-» pie of Bolabola. This young man offered to enter a vo- lunteer tor Europe. It was debated whether they shouii entertain him; but at last it was agreed to suffer him to proceed, as they might, perliaps, have an opportunity of landing him at some other island within his know* ledtre, should he afterwards express a.dislike to continue tlie voyage. On the 7ih, about seven in the mormng, (hey un* moored, and about half after eight came to sail in com* pany together, directing their course westward, with a gentle breeze nnd fair weather. When the ship was under sail, and the last canoe going off, Omai called to his countrymen, cried much,..and gave them some nails-, as presents to his friends ; but in a day or two he apr pcared gay, and quite happy. On theSlh they arrived. off Ulietea, and about noon anchored in a fine bay, where they were immediately surrounded with canoes, from all quarters, with hogsv . fowls, fruits of various kinds, particularly bread-frui^, bananas, plaiiilains, and cocoa-^nuts, wiWi which the ships were plentifully supplied. Here they paid a for* mal visit. to Oreo, the chief of this part of the isle, with whom Captain Cook, as a test of friendship, changed names. Presents were given on both sides. Having filled their empty waier-casks, and prepared LIEUTENANT COOk's SECONb VOYAGE. S05 ever}' thing for a long voyage, on the 1 7th, in the morning, they set sail. The day before Captain Cook lo>t his Otaheitean, Poreo, who it seemii contracted a friendship with a young woman, and went away with her. His place, however, was soon after supplied by another, about seventeen years, named Oedidee, a na- tive of Balabola, and a near relation of Opoony, chief of that island. The inhabitants of all the Society Islands seem to be nearly alike in manners, customs, and dispositions; the women, in particular, are without modesty, and the men without courage ; they are in general an effeminate race, intoxicated with pleasure, and enteebled by indul- gence. Onlhe 18th both ships set sail in company; they had ■on board one hundred and sixty hogs, and a large quan- tity of bread and fruit : they had also pleasant weather and a favourable gale, their course W. S. W. On the 25th saw some land-birds, and flying fish, but no other •sigijs of land. October 1, the weather continuing fine, and the course W. by S. about two in the afternoon they came' in sight of Middieburgh, bearing from them about W, by N. The next morning they got close under the land, and anchored in forty-five fathom water. In less than half an hour they were surrounded with Indians, some incanoes, and some swimming, but none came along- side the ships, s&ve one, who approaching the Adven- ture, brought in his hand the piece of a root, (of which they make much use as a token of pesce), and present- ed it to Captain Furneaux, who received it respectfully, and in return made the Indian a small present. This he alio received, and placing it upon the top of his head. 310 LIEUTENANT COOkV SECOND VOYAGET. sat down on the quarter-deck, and held it there for the space oF half a minute. He seemed very desirous of making himself understood, and wanted much to enter into conversation with Oraai, but their languages were- lotally different. A chiefs named Troony, visited (he Resolution, and the gentlemen having embarked in two boats, were con- ducted by him to his house, al the head of a fine law a, under the shade of some shaddock trees. Having the bagpipes with them. Captain Cook ordered them to be played for him, and he in return directed three young women tosing songs, which were very harmonious. Octobers, they weighed anchor a«d put to to sea^ directing their course S. W. to Amsterdam, an island about five leagues distant. Here both ships cast anchor and moored. During their stay, great numbers of the nalives.carae off daily, with hogs,^ fowls, and fruits of dif*-- ierent sorts, which our navigators purchased for trifles. This island is level, the lawns of a beautiful green, and the woods abounding with fruit bearing trees, so varied in colour,' that nothing in nature can afford a more enchanting prospect. Here the shore is open, not surrounded with reefs of rocks, as the Society Isles are, but free and bold, from twenty-five to thirty -five falhooi water,, and of a shelly bottom. / The captains were visited by the chief men of the island, particularly Attago, a person of note; but when they went to return tiie compliment, on shore, taking a guard of soldiers- with them for the greater state,, a quarr rel ensued; which was not ended, without bloodshed. The i^atives, like almost all the other islanders in the southern hemispjiere, are Inclined to theft, and taking a fancy to the hats on the men's headsj it was .not au. LIEUTENANT COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. 511 ■easy tank to prevent their snatching ihcm away. This, however, iIkj soldiers endeavoured to do by presenting l4ieir bayonets, bui ihat liad no effect; the Indians at- tempted to wrest the arms from the soldiers by force; but failing in their first ailempt, the fiay became gene- ral, and ihe soldiers were in danger of being overpow- ered by numbers. It therefore became necessary lor the otfictrs to inierpose, vviio, finoing no other means of preserving good oider, and commanding respect, gave the word for one file to ^re m'er t^ie heads of the crowd, and the other file to feserve '.heir fire, till it "Should be seen what effect the false fire would have in intimidatingr the assailants. Af first the Indians seemed to desist, but seeing no rni.^chief had ensued from such an uncom- mon rej)o;t, they redoubled their attack-, and were for pressing on more vigorouslv, when orders *^'ere given to fire wiih ball, by which twoof the most forward among tliem were shot dead, and some others desperately wounded. This at once put an end to the dispute. The Indians fled wiih the utmost precipitation, and some pieces we.e fired after them, not to hurt any of them, but to shew them that they were not out of the reach of European arms when at a considerable distance. This prevented every kix»d of insult for the future. The peo- ple came afterwards and traded fairly. They brought hogsin'greal abundance, which the common men killed and sailed, and fowh oF an enormous size. They alo brought bread-lruit, cocoa-nuts by thousands, plantains, and a fruit called shaddocks, as large as cocoa-nuts, and of the colour and smell of lemons, all which they ex« changed for trifles. The intimacy between Attagoand Captain Cook, however, continued. He assisted in lecovering Mr» Wallis*s shoes and stockings, which were I 3I'2 LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. Stolen while he was wading a river, and behaved in other respects very kind. Being in search of water, tiie gentlemen had an op- portunity of seeing and examining the houses and plan- tations of the inhabitants of the inland parts of the coun-* try, and found them infinitely preferable to any in that part of the world they had yet beheld Their houses are fjar more commodious than those of the islanders near the line ; they were open indeed on one side like theirs, and at one end, but all the rest were close covered. They were divided into apartments, which seemed to be proportioned to the number of tlie family that inhabit- ed them ; in some there were more, in others fewer. In the villages, the lanes between the houses were not wider than ten or twelve feet. Behind every house a piece of ground was allotted, at least a hundred feet long : these- litile spots were planted with cocoa nut trees on ihe outside, and with plantains, yams, sweet potatoes, and other vegetables within. Each plantation was divided from the next adjoining plantation by bamboo partitions, from twelve to. sixteen feet high. Adjoining to these were lawns, or fields, the grass of which grows to the height of eighteen inches, and never loses its v'erdure. Wiih this grass ihey cover the floor of their houses to a considerable height, and over it they place mats very curiously woven, on which they repose themselves in 4lie day, and sleep in the night. They always eat in the open air, and generally the roaster of the house eats alone; the wife and children eat together. They wear BO cloaths trom the middle upwards, neither men noo women ; but they have a very curious kind of cloth, ■which they tie about tlieir vva!^ts with a platled girdlt-', aiod which hatigs io foid& neaily as low && their kuoos,. 1 LrtUTENANT COOK*:> SECOND VOYAGf. 313 and this is all the clothing in use, from the servant to the king. The women are tall, well shaped, and strongly made, and seem to employ themselves in the business of the family. Both the islands, Middleburgh and Am- sterdam,* are amazingly populous. When our navigators made signs that they wanted water, the people with great simplicity and good-nature brought them cocoa-nuts, and shewed them how to drink the milk. The gentlemen, however, made signs that they wanted water to fill tlieir casks, to bear away on board; they shook their heads, and gav« them to understand that they knew of none nearer than two days journey up the country. Tt was in vain, therefore, to continue their pursuit; they dug wells, but the water^ they came at was not drinkable. Thus disappointed, the party sent out on this service returned on board. As to the complexion of these islanders, it is swarthy inclining to a sooty black; their features are not disa- greeable, rather small than masculine; their teeth while and even; their eyes small, and their noses rather flat than prominent ; but in that, as among us, they differ considerably ; the make of their faces is in general round, and their ears large and long ; the beards of some appear to have been shorn, whicii seems a mark of distinction among the chiefs, probabi)' the symbol of priesthood. The articles of traffic, on which they seem- ed to Set the greatest value, were pieces of linen-cloth, white paper, scarlet shreds, and painted cottons. Nails, scissars, knives, beads, and iron, in all forms, bore a good price; for these they would part with whatever * These islands were first discovered by Tasman, in January 1612-3. NO. 41. 2 D 314- LIEUTENANT COok's SECOND VOYAGE. Iheir country produced, natural or artificial ; some of their cloth seemed to be made, like ilw cloth of Ota- heite, of the bark of a tree, and had the appearance of paper ; another kind, made of India grass, was very strong; and looked like fine matting j but their baskets were most admired' by the gentlemen, wi)o thought they cannot be equalled in the universe; they are made in a thousand different shapes, and all so close and com- pact, as to hold water as tight as a cask. Their work- ing tools, their canoes, (which differ from all others, in being decked at both ends with flat boards) iheir nets for catching fish, ti;eir fish-hooks, and their domestic utensils, their arms, and, in short, all tlieir mechanical inventions, are each so curicu>ly made and polished, that it would require the utmost skill of an European ar- tificer to excel them. While they anchored here they discovered two high, but very small islands, not above a mile, or a mile and a half, in circumference, about seven or eight miles to the north-west. Also a whole cluster of little islands, in almost every direction, and among others one, about a degree to the southward, where they found plenty of fine water, and every otiier necessary for the ship's use. This island they named Rotterdam, at which our navigators did not touch. On the 7lh of October they unmoored, and in so do- ing the Resolulion lost her stream anchor. The next day they came in sight or the i»:land of Pyllstaert, bear- ing to S. W. distance about nine or terr leagues, course S. S. W. and S. by W. steering for New Zealand : in the evening they shortened sail, and killed two large sharks. On the 15th they saw some egg-birds, and sea-birds. LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYACE. 315 certain signs of land near, which proved to be New Zealand. The next day they killed three albatrosses, and some egg-birds. On the 1 9th the Resolution had outrun the Adventure considerably. The weather, which had hitherto been clear and mild, now began to alter. The bread-fruit on board the Adventure being all expended, the steward began serving out biscuit, as usual, to the ship's com- pany. On the '21st they came in sight of New Zealand. The Adventure being a great way a-stern, the Resolu- tion shortened sail till they joined company. At six they passed Portland Island, and saw several people on the top of it. The next day, when at about eleven leagues to the northward of Charlotte Sound, there came off three ca- noes, one of which was curiously carved from head to stern. The figure that formed the head had some re- semblance of a griffin. On board of this canoe was a chief, with a weapon in his hand like a Serjeant's hal- bert, who, after some ceremonies had passed, came on bi.r:rd, and was saluted by Captain Cook, and the other gentlemen. The head of this chief was curiously tat- tovved, and his hair was finely ornamented with fea- thers ; it was tied, as their custom is, in a knot ai tthe top of his head ; and the feathers, of various colours, were plaited all round, in a very neat and elegant man- ner. After admiring the wonderful structure of the ship, being shewn the cabin, the hold, the gun-room, and the other conveniences between decks, he next took a survey of the rigging, the masts, sails, and ropes, and the deterous manner of handling them. On being shewn so many novelties, he could not help expressing his as- 2 d2 316 LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. lonishment, by a variety of gestures. At length, belngdc- sirous of departing, the captain presented him with some cocks and hens, and gave him also a boar and a sow, and made him understand, that if he preserved them alive^ the)' would run into tl.e woods, and would want no attendance, but would br€ed, and become numerous, and go in companies. About twelve he took his leave, and, by way of expressing the pleasure he had received, began a war song, in which he was joined by his at- tendants, who performed all the motions and gestures by which these people challenge their enemies to fight. The weather was now dry, the sea calm, the wir.d at W. S. W. and their course S. At three in the after- noon, iheResolulion being three leagues from land, the gale fieshencd, and suddenly shifted to the west; the jails being set, it presently carried away the foretop- gallant-mast, and split the mizzen-topsail. All hands were called up, and employed in reefing the top-sails, taking down the mizen, and getting another up. They lay ofFand on all night; but in the morning had parted from the Adventure, and never joined again till they met in England. On the 23d it blew a hurricane, attended with prodi- gious heavy showers ; but about nine the wind became moderate, and the rains ceased. The next day, how- ever, they had a smart gale, when they got sight of ihe Adventure, at a great distance on the lee-bow. On the 25lh ii blew very hard, but at two the next morning the gale ceased. They had very changeable weather the four follow- ing- days, but chiefly boisterous. On the 30th it blew a hurricane from the N. W. They were now driven as far to the southward of their destined port as they had before been labouring northward of it ; and though they LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. 317 had been once within two miles of the Streights, they were now many leagues distant from it. The gale still continuing, they began to look for some harbour, to take shelter till the weaiher should prove more favourable? but they found the shore in general craggy, the land mountainous, and the hills already covered with snow. At three o'clock they sounded about six raiies from the land, and found thirty-five fathom water. At night the wind increased, and split the fore-top-raast-stay-sail. In the afternoan of November 1, Cape Campbell, the southerly point of land, as Cape Palliser is the north- erly point, which two pbints form the entrance of Cook's Streights, bore S. W. distance about two leagues. Char- lotte Sound was now no more than ten or eleven leagues distant. The next morning l hey stood into the Sound with a brisk gale at N. W. by W. to look for a safe place to anchor. They saw a small entrance, or bay, a little to windward. About noon they stood close in to land, and anchored in twelve fathom water, black sandy clay. While they lay here, several canoes came along-;idt blown to pieces, and the men quite worn down with fatigue. The water which they had obtained with so much labour before be- ing nearly expended, they were again reduced to the scanty allowance of a quart per man a day. On the 30th, the weather becoming more moderate, they made Cooke's Streights, and at tljree in the after- noon cast anchor in Charlotte Sound. The first enquiry they made was, whether any instructions had been left for them by the Resolution; and, upon examination, a better was found, importing, that the Resolution had set sail six days before. On the 1st of December the tents were carried on shore, the sick landed, the armourer's forge put up, and, in short, every preparation made to refit the ship, and lo recover the numerous sick. Here the Indians came on board with great familiarity, brought fish, and what else they had to sell, and seem* ed to behave with great civility, and to traffic honestly; but this behaviour was but of short duration, for on the 13th, in the night, a party of them came down and robbed the astronomer's tent of every thing they could carry away. This they did so quietly, that they were not so much as heard, or suspected, till the astronomer, getting up to lake an observation, missed his instru- ments; and charged thecentinel with being the robber. This brought on a pretty severe altercation, daring which they espied an Indian creeping from the tent, and 320 -LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. Mr. Bailey fired at and wounded him, but he made shift, notwithstanding, to run into the woods and escape. The report of the gun had alarmed his companions, who likewise, instead of taking to their canoe, fled into the woods, leaving their boat with most of the things that had been stolen in it aground upon the beach. On the 17lh, while they were preparing for their de- parture, the large cutter, manned with seven seamen, under the command of Mr. John Roe, the first mate, accompanied by Mr. Woodhouse, midshipman, and James Tobias Swilley, the carpenter's servant, was sent up the Sound to Grass Cove, to gather greens and wild celery. At two in the afternoon the tents were struck, every thing got on board, and the ship made ready for sailing the next day. Night coming on, and no cutter appearing, the captain and officers began to express great uneasiness, fearing some treachery from the sa- vages. They s^t up the whole night in expectation of her arrival, but to no purpose. At clay-break Captain Furneaux ordered the long-boat to be hoisted out, and double-manned, with Mr. Burney, second lieutenant ; Mr. Freeman, master ; the corporal of the marines, w ith five private men, all well armed, with plenty of ammu- nition, two wall-pie(?es, and three days provision. Thus equipped, about nine in the morning they lett the ship, and rowed and sailed for East Bay, keeping close in shore, and examining every creek they passed, to find the cutter ; they continued their search till two m the afternoon, when they put into a small cove to dress din- ner. While that was gettir.g ready, a company of In- dians were observed, seemingly very busy, on the op- posite shore, upon wnich they ielt their dinner, and rowed precipitately to the place wiiere the savages LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. 321 were assembled. Upon (heir approach the Indians im- mediately fled ; they followed them closely to a lillle town, which they found deserted, "but while they w'ere employed in searching their huts, the Indians returned, and made a shew of resistance, but some trifling pre- sents being made their chiefs, they were very soon ap- peased. However, on their return to the boat the sa- vages again followed them, nnd some of them threw stones. After they had dined, they renewed their search, and at proper intervals kept firing their wall- pieces, as signals to the cutler, if any of her people should happen to be v>'ithin hearing. About five o'clock they opened a small bay, where they saw a large double canoe, and a body of Indians hauling her up upon the beach. They quickened their cnurse to come up with them, but the savages instantly fled on seeing them approach, which made them ja-jpect that some mischief had been done. Oa landing, the first thirg they saw in the canoe was one of the cutter's rqw-lock-boards, and a pair of shoes tied up together. On advancing farther up the beach, they found several of their people's bas- kets, and saw one of iheir dogs eating a piece ot broiled flesh, which, upon examining, they suspected to be hu- man, and having found in one of the baskets a hand, which they knew to be the left hand of Thomas Hit), by the letters T. H. being marked on it, they were no longer in suspence about the event. They pursued the savages as far as was practicable , but without succe<;s. On their return they destroyed (he canoe and con- tinued their search. At half after six in the evening they opened Gra-^s-Cove, where they saw a great many Indians assembled on the beach, and six or se- ven canoes floating in the surf; they stood in shore. 322 LIEUTENANT COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. and as soon as Ihe savages saw them, they retreated to a rising liill, close by the waler-sicle. The lieute- nant being doubtful whether their retreat proceedicd from fear, or a design to decoy them to an ambus- cade, determined not to be surprized, and therefore, running close in shore, ordered the grappling to be drop- ped near enough to reach them with iheir guns, but at too great a distance to be under any apprehension from their treachery. In this position they began to engage, taking aim, and determining to kill as many of them as their guns could reach. It was sometime before they dislodged them ; but, at length, many of them being wounded, and some killed, they began to disperse. The Lieutenant improved their panic, and, supported by the officers and marines, leapt on shore, and pursued the fu- gitives. They had not advanced far from the water-side, before they beheld the most horrible sight that ever was seen by any European; the heads, hearts, livers, and lights, of three or four of their people broiling on the fire, and their bowels lying at the distance of about six yards from the fire, with several of their hands and limbs, in a mangled condition, some broiled, and some raw ; but no other parts of their bodies, which gave cause to suspect that the cannibals had feasted and eaten all the rest. They observed a large body ol them as- sembled on a hill about two miles distant ; but night coming on, they durst not advance to attack them, nei- ther was it thought safe to quit the shore, to lake an ac- count of the number killed, their body being but small, and the savages numerous and fierce. They were a.nn- ed with long lances, and weapons not unlike a Serjeant's haibert in shape, made of hard wood, and, instead of iron, mounted with bone. They could discover no- LIEUTENANT COOk's S ECON D VO YA G E. 325 thiii2 belonginor to the cutter but one of the oars, which was broken and stuck in the sand, and the fastenings of the Indians' canoes tied to it. It was suspected ihat the dead bodies of iheir people had been divided among the different parties of savages that had been concerned In the massacre; and it was not improbable but that the party that was seen at a distance were feasting upon some of the others, as those on the shore had been upon what were foA.ind, before they were disturbed by the crew of the long-boat ; be that as it may, they could discover no traces of more than four of tlieir bodies, nor could they tell where the savages had concealed the cutter. It being now late, and the lieutenant not thinking It safe to trust the crew in the dark, in an open boat, within reach of such cruel barbarians, ordered the canoes to be broken up and destroyed, and carefully collecting the remains of their mangled companions, they made the best of their way from this horrible place, and got on board the ship before midnight. The remains of the bodies brought on board were examined by the surgeon, but he could-nol make out to whom they belonged; so they were decently laid together and with the usual solemnity observed on board siiips, committed to the sea. It was the 19th of December before the Adventure could be in readiness to follow the Resolution ; she did not get clear of land, however, till the 22d, when the cloaLhs and effects of the ten men who were murdered and, eaten, were sold before the mast, according to the old sea custom. We shall now return to the Resolution, w hich anchor- ed (as before observed,) at Charlotte Sound, November the 3d, and was much disappointed in not finding her 5 324- LIEUTENANT COOK*S SECOND VOYAGE. consort. After the usual business of landing lenls, casks &c. was over, and the crew had lime lo make enqui- ries, they were told that some strange Indians had been there, and had eaten all the goats, hogs, and poultry, that the captain had put on shore alive at his last visit, to breed ; and that they did not be- lieve a single one was to be met with in the whole Island. On the 5th the copper oven was put on shore for the bakers to bake bread for the ship's use ; the brewers were as fully employed in brewing beer for the same purpose; but, notwithstanding the utmost vigilance of the watch, the Indians found means to steal and carry away several of the brewing utensils, which, however, were again recovered. The next day a great many of them came alongside (he ship, and Jjrought several of their weapons and cu- riosities to sell ; but were very loth to dispose of their battle-axes, on which shey seemed to set the greatest value. Fish too they brought in abundance. As soon as they had made their market they returned on shore, and hauling their canoes up among the bushes, made a fire, and, as it was supposed, dressed what they had to eat. While the bakers and brewers were employed on shore, the steward was no less busy in examining the biscuit casks on board, many of which proved damp, and the bread in them unserviceable; that which was good was separated from the bad, and packed again in fresh casks; what was soft, but eatable, was sent ashore to be rebaked ; and that which was utterly unfit for the men's use, was preserved to feed the hogs and fowls. In this survey of the ship's stores, the powder was 'lieTJtevant coor's second voyage. 525 found to be damp ; it was necessary, therefore, that it should be carried ashore, and dried. The rats had beea busy in the sail room, and had eaten their way through and through the canvas. This was a grievous misfor- tune to the sail-makers, who had already employment more then sufficient to repair the rents torn by the wea- ther. While in harbour here, no portion of time was -allowed for indulgence; even Sunday was employed is re-baking, packing, and stowing the bread, as this was judged a work of necessity, and therefore allowable in -the strictest sense. But while the trew was thus kept to labour, the greatest attention was paid so their health : ihey had every day plenty of celery, scurvy-grass, and other wholesome plants, to boil with their pease, in which likewise a quantity of portable soup was always an in- gredient. After continuing here about three weeks, and no ti- lings of the Adventure, all things being in forwardness to proceed to sea, the men had leave, by turns, to divert themselves on shore ; but here the inducements were wanting that made them so fond of land at the Society Isles. The women, though not ugly, are yet chaste ; and it was as much as life was worth lor a sailor to at- tempt the least rudeness to any of their wives, or even to their daughters, without permission. Few of the common men, therefore, chose to wander among the woods and deserts, where nothing was to be hoped, but much to be apprehended, from the treachery of the na- tives, who, friendly a* they may appear to be when awed by fear, are not to be trusted when under no restraint. A party of officers having on the 23d made an excur- sion to take a view of the country, and to mark the man- NO. 42. ^ E 32lS ■ LIEUTENANT COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. tiers and way of living of the natives among themselves, called at a little cove, a few miles from the shore, where 3 company of them generally lived, and found them feasting on a man whom they had not long before killed, as was apparent from the freshness of the flesh. They seemed not at all disconcerted at the approach of the strangers, but very civilly invited them by signs to sit down and eat ; and, as ihe greatest dainty^ they brought them the man's head, from the lower-jaw upwards, rea- lly dressed, which, as well may be supposed, they re- fused. They then presented the haselet of the man just warmed, and making signs expressive of the savo- liness of the mgat, pressed them to eat, and seemingly with some resentment that they did not. The gentlemen, liowever, though they declined eating, made signs that tbey were not unwilling to pay for the head, provided it would not be an affront to them to carry it away ; to tliis they readily consented, and the gentlemen brought the head on board, with which they afterward* treated an Indian-chief, who eat it greedily in presence of the whole ship's crew ; an incontestable proof that the Kew-Zealanders are cannibals. It is remarkable that all the teeth were missing in the head purchased by the gentlemen, for they seetti to set a great value upon the teeth, by wearing them either as trophies or ornaments in their ears. As the gentlemen were naturally curious to know the teason of pulting the man to death, on whom they were found feasting, these people gave them to understand that they had lately been at war with the North- Island Indi- ans ; make a feast. Their chief weapons of war are pikes or javehViS, some of which are thirty-six feet long ; lliese (hey throw to a great diuance with incredible force j (he weapon ihf^y u>e for cUyse fight is about three feet" long, fihaped not unlike our bats, but with a broad baclc and sharp edge, and is so weighty as to cleave a man's skull at <)i>e blow. In the evenino:, the frentleracn heard from the ship ar grievous yelling, which closed witli the nfiosl lerri-i) ing shrieks that any man on board ever heard. As these noises came al the closj of the day. from the dark re- ce*.scs of the woods, there is rea-JOa to suppose that the viclim'i of th'^'ir revenji^?*, or their depraved appetite^ were then sacnuee j to their prevMiling pi\Nsi»n. ' Not having heard any thing about the Adventure aU thi-^ while, ;t was the prevailing opinion among the sea- men that she raust either have been wrecked or so mucli damaged as not to be able to proceed upon her voyage j but Captain Cook was of another opinion ; he there- fore caused a letter to be written, and inclosed in a bot- tle, directing his associate what course to sieer, and to- hasten his departure as soon as his ship should be in a condition lo proceed ; and he caused the place where the bottle was concealed to be engraven upon a tree, which was not likely to be observed by the natives, bat cUuld not escape the notice of the ship's company, when they came to examine the adjacent coast. We have already mentioned that this letter came into Captain Furneaux'*- hands. On the 24th, Captain Cook having previously landed' some live animals on an unfrequented part of the coun- try, where they were not likely to be discovered by the Indians, with a view lo their multiplying for a supply to- 2e 2 5?8 llEUTENANT COOK's SECOND VOYAGZ. future navigators, gave orders for all his people to come- on board, to unmoor, and to prepare to sail ; and here It may not be improper to observe, that a complaint having been made by a native again- 1 one of the sai- lors, and that complaint, upon examination, being found 'just, he ordered the man to receive twelve severe Jashes, which were accordrngl)' indicted in sight of the Indian. On the 25lh they weighed, but it wasnight before- (hey cleared the channel. The next day they spent in looking for the Adventure, firing guns every half hour as they proceeded with an easy sail along shore, and narrowly viewing every inlet, in order to discover the remains of the wreck, if any disaster of that kind had happened to her, and to give relief to the distressed crew, if any remained alive ; but the guns not being answered, . Dor any appearance of a wreck to be seen, and only a, fcmoke to be observed, which, upon examination, was found to proceed from a fire kindled by the natives, the wind proving fair, the weather fine, and a brisk breeze springing up, in the evening they took leave of the island, and proceeded on their voyage with a tuil, sail* Nothing now occurred for several days ; the weather was^^ometimes foggy, sometimes clear, but in general the former. On the last day of the month they saw two Port Egmont hens, and on the 1st of December saw a seal, two penguins, and a great deal of sea-weed; cer- tain indications of land at no great distance. On the 5th they saw another seal, and several albatrosses, and heard the cry of penguins at no great distance, but saw 130 land. The ship's company still continued in healthy except some who were not yet cured of the Otahciict xnaUdies. LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE^ 3^9^ For the three succeeding days they had cold wea- ther ; on the 9th a storm ; and the following days small- rain and snow. On the 14th they saw a monstrous large island of ice ahead. There were eight or teti' islands of ice in sight, and bitter cold. The next morn- ing they passed the large island of ice, computed to be three miles in circumference, and sixty feet above the level of the sea. Al five the ice came so thick about the ship that she was unable to proceed either to the south- ward or eastward ; they were therefore obliged to tack ship, in order to get clear. Here the ice islands pre- sented a most romantic prospect of ruined castles,, churches, arches, steeples, wrecks of ships, and a thou- sand wild and grotesque forms of monsters, dragons, and' all the hideous shapes that the most fertile imagination, can possibly conceive. About these islands the penguins- are heard conlinuallv screaming:, and add to the horror ©f the scene, which cannot be beheld by the most intre- pid without some emotions of fear. The weather having cleared up on the 16th, and the »ea become calm, they sent the boats out to bring in ice, in order to lengthen out their stock of water ; for though they were in possession of Dr. Irvin's apparatus for making salt water fresh at sea, and though they made frequent use of it, distilling sometimes forty gallons a day,'yet ice water was so much preferable, that the first was only made use of to supply the animals on board,, while the other was preferred by the officers. While this service was performing, the ship lay to ; but a sudden swell comuig on before the boats were half loaded, they were glad to get aboard with their lives; but not without considerable damage to the boats. Thli. 53T) LIEUTENANT COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. day they saw a large whale at a distance; but tl^- bieese freshening, they soon lost sight of her. In the afternoon of the I9lh a fall of snow came on, the flakes of which, says our author, ** were larger than a goose's feathers, and fell so thick, that from the quarter- deck we could not see our bowsprit." For a while it ceased ; but then again it fell by handfuls, and filled the ship's decks so suddenly that double the men on board, ivith all their efforts, could not have cleared them as fast as it fell. The rigging too vvas so enlarged with ice and snow that the running-tackle was rendered altoge- ther useless till the storm abated. On the 1 8th, the fog being so thick as not to be pe- jietraled by the eye, they were alarmed by a crash as if a thousand houses had been all tumbling about their ears together, and presently they discovered a small island of ice just under their lee-bow. All hands were instantly, railed up, and by good providence they weathered the ice, and escaped the danger, which was so imminent, that in less tlian a quarter of an hour the ship must have been overwhelmed, and every soul on board must conr sequently have perished. The Indian whom the captain bad taken on board be* gan now to shiver at the sight of snow and ice ; he vva» taken great care of, and kept warm in the captain's ca- bin ; he enjoyed his health, but was much frightened. On the 26th there were one hundred and thirty-two islands of ice in sight. The next day the islands of ice increasing in number, and (he loose ice beginning to be troublesome, they could make little or no way to the southward, which determined the captain to change hi* course. .>^- tflEVTENAlTT COOKS SECOND VOVA^SE; 531' 'Nothing remarkable occurred for several days, during wliicli time the Indian began to be impatient to see England. He was still indulged in the cap(ain*s cabin ;- taught to write ; but could get little or no English. At nine in the morning of January the 26th, 1774-, every body on deck imagined he saw land ; and accord- ingly preparations were made for getting all things in' readiness to cast anchor. At eleven they crossed the antarctic circle to the southward for the second lime, and hauled up S. E. by E. where they were persuaded land was; but to their great disappointment, the farther they sailed, the farther the land seemed to bear from them ; and at length it wholly vanished. The next day Ihey passed one large island of ice, aixl several islets of rarious forms. They saw several whales, some piniada birds, and two strange birds, such as they had never seen before, and thought to be land-birds, with a great flock of sea-swallows, which the sailors call Mother Carey's Chickens, and dread their appearance as an omen of tempestuous weather. These were more beautiful than any they had ever seen before, their glossy feathers of black, red, and white, being so happily intermixed as to produce a colouring that exceeds all description- Atone in the morning of the 28th (hey saw the sun and moon ten degrees above the horizon, and both ap- peared equally illuminated, owing perhaps to the hazi- ness of the atmosphere. The islands of ice began to multiply on the 29th, and the loose ice to incorporate. The next day they came in sight of a fog-bank, which had a grea{ appearance of land, and many who were thought the best judges as- serted that it was land; however, it proved upon trial a deception. This day they passed a great island of kp. ^3:2 lieiFtenant ccftic's second voyage. and heard many dreadful cracks, as if the whole earth was cleaving asunder. They saw several whales and a. strange bird. This second attempt at discovery of Innd, in this dreary region, being attended with no belter suc- cess than tlie first, \he captain thought it advisable to give over the pursuit for the present, and once more to direct the ship's course to tlie norihward. On the Glh of February a furious storm came on, the sea rose a considerable height, and often boarded them from the larboard cat-head clear off. It continued the next day, and carried away I he fore-top-mast -sail sheet, and the fore and main top-sails. About eleven in the forenoon the storm abated. On the 1 llh they had ano- ther tempest, which abated the next day, when ail hands were employed in repairing the injury sustained by the storm. As the day advanced the weather cleared up ; and while the seamen were busy in their several deparl»- inents, the gentlemen diverted themselves in shooting al- batrosses. In the evening they returned aboard, having shot eleven albatrosses and one Port Egmont hen. Calm and stormy weather, thick and clear, they had alternately for several days. On the 23d Captain Cook was taken ill, to the grief of all the ship's company ; during his indisposition .(which confined hrm to his bed) !Mr. Cooper, first officer, managed the vessel, very much to his satisfaction. He was perfectly recovered, to the great joy .of his friends February the 4th. At six in the morning of the 1 ith they descried land bearing W. half S- distarit seven or eight leagues. The next day they were about eleven or twelve miles from shore, the. land bearing N. N. W. It was now a calm. On the 13lh they sounded, and found ground at nine- ty-one tathom, red aiiu wliiLe finecorally saod, JUU. *"<' tlEUTENANT COOk's SECPND VOYi^CE. 533^ §\'. At four lliey hoisled the cutter out, and sent her on shore to look for good anchorage. She returned irk an hour, with news that at the distance of five miles^ from the island there was safe anchoring. On board the boat came one ol the natives, a man of a middhng stature, curiously (atlowed from head to foot. Hislan- o^uage was different from that of any of the islanders they had yet visited, so that he was no otherwise understood by the Indian, nor by any other man on board, except by signs. The island, called Easter Island, or Davis'^ Land, had no very promising appearance on their ap- proach to it; they could see, indeed, at the distance oC" six or seven miles up the country, a- number of houses,, but no cocoa-nuts, or other trees, but a low level green within land, defended from the sea by craggs and rocks, near the shore. The wind still proving contrary, thejf^ cast anchor where directed. The next day the captain ordered the pinnace to be hoisted out, and the great and small cutters to be man- ned, and he, attended by his chief officers, and accom- panied by Mr. Foster, went on shore about six in the morning, and returned on board again about nine. The wind coming lair they weighed, and stood in c]ose to- land, and again came to anchor about two miles from land, in forty fathom water. Several of the natives came on board, the greatest part of whom swam from the shore, and a fewcame in wretched canoes, old and rot«. ten, and so small that three people could barely sit in them ; they were indeed of a pretty construction, but the materials were the worst they had ever seen made use of ,' nor was it cBsy to conceive how, or where they ^procured the materials, as no trees were to be seen oii^ ilie island, ^ven by those who were sent to survey U,, 534 tIEUTENANT cook's SECOND VOYAOtf. The people on board made signs that Ihey wanleif provisions, and shewed ihem several articles, such as nails, beads, looking-glasses, knives, scissars, and the Jikc, which the_y made signs the)' would give in ex- change: the)' also shewed them some linen» and Ota- heile cloth. They preferfed the linen, because it- was while ; and indeed any thing of that colour seemed to- please then) best. The chief articles they brought to sell were fowls, sweet potaloe;*, a few plantain?;, and" some bananas; but fruit, as well as other provisions, Were in no great plenty among them. The chief--, on their first coming on board, brought five or six fowls Jrcady bnrbicuedj a^ presents to the capif.in, who in rd« turn kmdt^d them \^iih (rii1t-« of ^malt vhKji^ vxIiIs whielv t\M$y were exceedingly pleaded. The men were of the widdle stature, strong, and apparently healthy ; thejr were naked above and below the middle, and had only a kind of broad net-work girdle to surround the waist. The women were covered with a garment from head ta foot, and were, besides, painted wiih a variety of co- Jours, such as orange, red, yellow, and white. They ap- proach the nearest to the New Zealandcrs in habit and appearance, of any people they had yet seen. Those \Aho came on board had no arms ; biU the party that was sent out to reconnoitre the country, found arms amongst them, that were very ditFerent in every respect Irom the arms of the islanders in the tropical regions. They were spears, of a substance and shape wholly of their own in- vention, and other weapons they had, curiously wrought in the form of fishes, birds, and men. They had also among them engines for throwing sibnes, some of which fchey made use of in a skirmish they had with a party of Biarines. A peculiarity very singular: was likewise lo JlIEUTENAXT COOk's SECOVD VOYAHE. S3? fnarked ; under the hair of the>e Indians, which was ia general short and bushy, thc^y thought they perceived something uncommon about their ears; and, upon exa- mination, (hey found them oTan astonishing length, but so nicely wrapt up, by means of (hegriule> being taken out, that they appeared rather like small flatted chitter- lings than ears , yet, when they came lo be unfolded, one of them measured full five inches and a half long. Their houses, or rather hut>, were very mean, and co- vered all over, except a small hole to creep in at, which served tliem for door, window, and chimney. They were the greatest thieves ihey met with in their whole voyage ; and it was found necessary to slwDOt one thief, lo preserve the live? of man} others. When the Resolution arrived at this island she was principally in want of water; but of water the island Was in want too. They fiug a well, but that afforded only a brackish bad tasted supply, such as they met with at the islands of Mivl lleburgh and Amsterdam; nor, when they had ranged the island through, could they meet with any better ; yet the natives did not seem lo regret the want of water, though they were destitute of cocoa-nuts, the milk of whi^h the tropical islanders drink in its stead. In surveying the island, the gentlemen had the curio- sity to visit those famous statues, or idols, that gave rise lo the fabulous reports of the first discoverers ;* who gave out that on this island they had seen men from twelve to twenty feet high. Upon examining these idols. * Viz. Roggewein, a Dutchman, who visited this island in irii'i, and Don Felipe Gonzalez, a Spaniard, in 1772. 5S6 CirUTElfAlfT COOK^S SECOND VOYAGE. it appeared indeed very wonderful by what powers tliey had been raised, or by wliat art fabricated , for whether the materials of whicli they are formed be natural or fac- titious, these effects are mysterious. If not stone, they are as hard as stone ; and if stone, they must have been hewn from one solid block, for the gentlemen could discern net the smallest seam or joining. They are not, however, looked upon as idols by the present inhabit- ants, whatever they might have been formerly. Indeed the captain supposed tiiey were burying-places for cer- tain tribes or families. The short time that the gentlemen continued upon the island, necessarily obliged them to leave many things unobserved, which deserved notice, among a people, who, by their situation, on a speck. t)fland, not more than twelve or fifteen leagues in cir- cumference, and at least a thousand miles from any Itnown land, may well be supposed to be original. On the 1 6th of March they weighed anchor, and came to sail. Wind at N. E. and ship's head north. Tl)e fresh provisions taken in at Easter Island were dealt out the next day by the captain*s order, and at his ex .pence, equally among the men, namely, two pounds of potatoes a man, ai.d a bunch of bananas to each mess; and this without reducing their ordinary allowance, an act of generosity which produced its effect; it preserv- ed the crew in health, and encouraged them to undergo cheerfully tiie hardshi[)s that must unavoidably happen in the course of so long a voyage. On the 18th the captain was taken ill again. The sail-makers were now all busily employed in making hoses to catch fresh water when it rained, as none was to be expected in the course they were pursuing, for many hundred leagues. LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOKO VOYAGE. 33T On the 6th of April thev saw land bearing from them S. VV. by S. it was called Hood's Island, after the young gentleman who first saw it. Il appeared like two hum- mocks, or little hills, and a large opening between thera. The next day they perceived several islands, which proved to be the isles known by the name of the Mar- quesas, discovered by Mendana in 1595. At half past four in the morning the ship brought to, and cast anchor in thirty fathom water ; fine white sand. Several ca- noes came from the shore alongside the ship, biit none of the natives wouM venture on board. Thty brought, as a present to the captain, some bread-fruit and a hog; and were very ready io exchange whatever they had about them for any trifles that were offered them. It is not e&'^y to determine whether they were pleased or terrified at the approach of the ship, nor whether they intended to receive their visitors hospitably, or were concerting means to get them in their power to cut them off. Those, however, who came alongside, made a strange noise as they rowed ashore, and that noise con- tinued the whole succeeding night, during which they kept fires burning on the tops of the hills, probably by way of beacons, to alarm the country of some approach-' ing danger, or uncommon event. Early, however, the next morning, they brought bread-fruit, which they exchanged for nails, bits of broken china-ware, white paper, or, in short, for any thing that was shewn them. About six great numbers presented themselves on the shore, and seemed to ex- press much rejoicing, by shouting, dancing, leaping, and running ; and in a very short time after five or sis: of them came close to the ship's side, and signs were made to them Lo come on board, which tjjey either did NO. 42, 2f 338 LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. not, or would not undersland; but one of them pre- sently unshipped the sifle iron siaunlion, and dived with it into the sea. All possible means were used to per- suade him to bring it back, but in vain ; and, when at some distance, he rose and got into a canoe. They were determined he should not avail himself of the robbery, lest by suffering him to escape others might be encou- raged to attempt the like exploits: orders were therefore given to fire while he was yet within reach, and it for- tunalely happened that he was shot dead, without any of his companions being hurt. There happened to be two men In the canoe, one of whom, on seeing what bad happened, threw the slauntion overboard, and then threw himself after it; the other kept baling the blood and water out of the canoe, while the pinnace, which had been launclied for carrying the captain and his com- pany on shore, came alongside to lake a view of the man that was killed. The death of this man seemed to strike the whole body of the Indians with fear and con- sternation. Those who were at sea made rapidly for land, and ihose who were dancing on the shore fled pre- cipitately to the hills at a distance, where they howl- ed, and made many frantic motions for more than an hour; and in the mean time some of the most daring among them attempted to cut the ropes, and carry oflf the ship's buoy ; which being observed, one of the great guns, loaded with grape shot, was fired amongst them, which soon put an end to iheir enterprlze. Being now, to all appearance, convinced of iheir own inability to resist, they quietly acquiesced in furnishing whatever was demanded of them. They brought hogs, but spar- ingly, as having perhaps no great stock upon the island ; but of such ffuil as the island produced they brought LIEUTENANT COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. 339 abundance. The captain and the olher gentlemen went ashore in the pinnace, and landed without opposition. But, previously to their embarkation, there came a ca- noe to the ship, in which there was a messenger, who held in his hand a green bough with a white flag fas- tened to it, which he presented to the captain, with six small hogs. These the captain received, placing the bough with the flag at the gang- way of the ship, at the same time displaying another while flag so conspicuously at the mast-head, that the inhabitants might see it at a great distance from the hills on the land. Peace being in this manner concluded, all farther hostilities ceased on both sides. The gentlemen were permitted to range the island without interruption. The waterers found water in great plenty, and very good; insomuch, that what remained of the water taken in at Easter Island was all bilged, and thrown into the sea. The island which the captain made choice of lo cast anchor, ap- pears to he the same lo which the Spaniards gave the name of Dominica. The inhabitants, particularly the men, were rather of the largest size : they were strong, active, and well shaped; and were in general more elegantly painted than any they had yet met with, even more so than the New Zealanders, having their very lips lattowed ; and the figures on their faces and breasts so curioi^sly traced and delineated, that no painter in Europe could have sketched the outline of a bird, fish, or animal, with more nicety, or with greater exactness. It was some- what remarkable, that among Ihera there were many with the loss of their left eye. When the pinnace returned, the captain brought with him si}i hogs, a considerable quantity of bread-fruit, and 2 P2 340 LIJKUTENANT COOK's SECO^JD VOYAGE, .some plantains. They saw no cocoa-nut trees growing upon the island; but cocoa-nut trees there certainly were, as the inhabitants brought some to sell as soon as the course of trade was placed in a regular channel. The men were in general naked, except a thin covering round the waist. The women were covered from head to foot wiih a sort of white cloth, not unlike the Ou- helte cloth in fabric, but not so fine. Few of them ap- peared, and those who did were far from being hand- some. On some affront offered by the sailors to the women, word was brought that the natives were all retired to the mountains, taking their women and children along with ihem,. This caused great uneasiness, as all trade was now at an end, apd nothing to be procured bat water. Some persons, however, were deputed to make up the breach, who carried presents with them of such things as it was thought would be most acceptable. The gen- tlemen who were appointed to execute this commission, so effectually brought about a reconciliation, that they returned loaded with fruit. It was, however, thought advisable to be always upon the watch. In conse- quence thereof a party of marines was placed as a guard lo protect the waterers from insult, while they were em- ployed in liliing water. <*^he caotain and gentlemen who accompanied him, having s^ftit ic.ntly reconnoitred the country adjoining to ^he bay wh' re the "ship rode at anchor, embraced the opportunity, while the crew were all busy, to visit a ba^ at some distance to the southward, in order to learn what that part of the country would produce, and lo endeavour to extend the trade for hogs, cocoa-nuts, and bread-huit. This excursion was attended with very LIEUTENANT COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. 341 ^ood effects; ihey found the natives very amicably dis- posed, and very ready to bring to market whatever the country produced. Here the captain purchased eigh- teen hog?, a large quantity of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, and returned again about seven in the evening. In this bay, where the natives were not alarm- ed' by the brutality of the common men, the women were not afraid to be seen ; nor was the least distrust perceivable on either side. The natives brought down their hogs and fruit to the shore, and the person appoint- ed to be purveyor shewed the articles he had to ex- change, and the natives were at full liberty to chuse each what he liked best ; the purveyor fixed the value. The articles they seemed most to admire were picture cards, pieces of Chinese paper, any kind of China ware, or any thing made of glass, nails, and bits of red cloth. For trifles of this kind they readily exchanged their hogs and fruit. The news of this honest dealing having spread over the island, and reached the adjoining isles, the ship was next day surrounded with more than fifty canoes, loaded with provisions of various kinds, among which was a fruit which seemed peculiar to these islands. The peo- ple who brought this fruit were very civil and courte- ous J they had their hair dressed in a singular manner, being parted and tied up in two knots behind, not unlike the wigs worn by counsellors al the bar. Their beards too were shorn in a peculiar manner, and tied under- neath their chins. Their manner of lying the hair did not however appear to be intended as a maik to distin- guish one class of people from another, but was only a variety of fashion which every one might or might not follow as he pleased. But there was one thing panicu- 2f 3 34-2 LIEUTENANT COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. lar, and which seemed (o be universal among the male^j and that wa Their hou-^es were like dog-kenneis, about the length and breadch of a man, and not two feet high, thatched with cocoa-nut leaves; they spoke remarkably quick. Having procured all Ihey couM of the produce of the island, and gratified their curiosity in visitin;; their places of worship, and the repositories of the dead, about six in the evening the pinnace and large cutler were hoisted in, and theie being no anchorage, the ship lay ofFand on all night. Islands, and chains of islands, continued to present themselves almost hourly, without any other material oc- currence happening till the 21st, when they made George's Island, or Olaheite, bearing S. S. W. and the next morning they anchored in Matavai Bay. All. this day great numbers of ihe natives thronged about the ship, to express their joy on the arrival of their old friends ; among whom the girls were no small part of the company. On the 24-lh king Portotow, with several of his no- bles and great men, came to pay their oompliments to the captain, and to make the usual presents on his arri- val. The king, with his retinue, came in double ca- noe?, such as were seen by our voyagers at King George's Islands : but these double canoes, it must be observed, were not the canoes of Oialieite, but such as it is probable came from some neighbouring isle, and only are seen here when these mighty chiefs vouchsafe LIEUTENANT COOK*S SECOND VOYAGE. 34i5 to visit each other, or to pay a more than ordinary compli- raent to strangers. King Portotow brought with him three large hogs, and a considerable quantity of the fin« est cloth the country afforded, which he presented to the captain, who received his presents, and entertained his followers, each according to his rank. The captain al- so received a visit from Otoo, chief of Otaheite, who brought about twelve hogs, besides fruits. TJie captain gave him suitable presents in return. The next day it thundered, lightened, and rained, to that degree that no man on board had ever remembered the like, The claps of thunder were so loud and terri- fying, that one could hardly conceive the report of ten thousand cannon fired off at one and the same instant to be more tremendous. The lightning appeared about the masts and rigging, like vortices of blue flame, the violence of which could only be abated by the torrents of rain that accompanied the lightning, and in all pro- bability saved the ship from being set on fire. This storm lasted for three hours. The afternoon was fair, and the natives came in from all quarters to welcome their friends ; and to bring hogs and fruit to sell for imple- ments of iron, which still bore a value among the multi- tude. The whole island seemed to be in agitation on the 26lh, and it was imagined that a general master of their whole force had taken place, preparatory to some grand warlike expedition which the natives had in view. Above GOO canoes were ranged in order of battle. In each of these canoes were placed upright in sockets a certain number of lances of various len^^ths, most of them headed with ,the tail-bones of the sting-ray, the wounds with which generally prove mortal ; and they 346 LIEUTKNANT COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. had besides heaps of stones piled up on stages, in liker manner as cannon-balls are piled op in European arse- nals. This warlike appearance attracted the notice of Captain Co(jk and his officers, who ordered the pinnace to be instantly got in readiness, and went himselT to ob- serve their motions j but upon his approach they sepa- rated, and every man retired to his own home. What- ever ^^'a» the intent of this muster, whether it was only an occasional review, or whether it w as preparatory to an atlack upon any of the neighbouring island^ or with a view (o surprize the ship, no measure that followed gave sufficient grounds to determine. From the 27 th of April to the 8ih of iMay nothing worth relating happened to the ship's company, but on that day, the coopers being at work in repairing the caskit, by the river side, they missed one of the number, and could not conceive by what invisible hand it could have been conveyed away, as a watch was set in the nigl)t to prevent any Ruch accident, and a guard in the day kept constantly at the tents. Complaint was therefore made to the chiefs, who, in compliment to the gentlemen, re- sided near the tents, that a theft had been committed, and that none but the subtilest among their people could be the robber. It was therefore insisted, that strict search should be made, and that as the thing lost was of such a bulk as not easily to be secieled, it was urged that it might be recovered, and the offender brought to justice, if those who were employed in the pursuit were in earnest to delect him. To this remonstrance menace* were added, and tlie whole island threatened if the cask was not produced, and the thief delivered up. This caused great consternation and confusion among the chiefsj Ihey presently assembled a large body of Iheif LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. 347 people together, (which they have a ready way of do- ing,) and one of the chiefs made a long and very pe- remptory speech, which he delivered with a severe countenance; and as soon as he had ended, several per- sons were observed to pursue different routes, in order, as it proved, to apprehend the felon. Early the next morning, the offender was brought in triumph by one party, and the cask by another. Upon his examination it appeared, that the fellow had laid his scheme some time before he executed it ; that he had prepared for it by coritriving a cavity in an overgrown bushy part of a sedgy swamp adjoining to the river, just big enough to contain the cask ; and this being ready he went in the dead of the night to a winding nook at some distance from the wptch and sentry, but within hearing of both : when every thing was still he plung- ed himself into (he water, and kept floundering about till he had attracted ihe notice of the guard, and when, by peeping over the bank, he perceived they were mak- ing towards the place where the noise was, he swam si- lently under water till he came near the spot where the cask he had in view was standing on the edge of the bank. T!-,is he softly pulled into the water, and made off with if, placing it between his neck and shoulders, that he might not alarm the guard upon their return by the noise of pushing it before him in the water: they were some considerable lime in searching about in order to discover what had occasioied so strange a plunging, during which the fellow found means to secrete his prize, which he had so artfully covered, that it might have lain many years without being found, had not the hlder confessed in what manner he had dis|)osed of it. Though the ingenuity of this fellow might have plead- J48 LIEUTENANT C00K*8 SECOND VOYAGE, ed his; pardon, yet it was judged necessary to punish him as a terror to others : he was therefore tied up, and received several lashes, ?h presence of the chiefs and a great concourse of the natives, who looked with an evil eye upon those concerned in what they called a cruel punishment. This, however, cruel as it was thought, did not deter others from committing the like offences ; for it was not long before another of them was detected on board the ship in stealing two jackets, and, being caught in the fact, was tied to the geers, and received twelve lashes. Much about this time, one of the centinels upon the ■watch unfortunately falling ^sleep, lost his musket. This w^as judged to be a theft of much greater conse- quence than either of the oliier two ; for though it was certain they could make no bad use of one musket, and one charge of powder and ball, yet as it had been the constant policy of those who visited the island before to keep the natives as ignorant as possible in the use of fire- arms, the captain determined to furnish them with no means of enlarging their knowledge from any neglect of his; he therefore began by punishing the Centinel in a most exemplary manner for his breach of duty, that the natives might be eye witnesses of the severity with which the people belonging to the ship were punished when they committed any offence ; and being informed that prince Oloo was privy to the theft, and that he was removed from Oparre, the royal residence, to a distant part of the country, the captain dispatched a me and sent her after the man, who proved to be the gun-. 2^g3 354- LIEUTENANT COOK^S SECOND VOYAGE, ner's mate, endeavouring to escape wilh a view to be left behind ; but this attempt failing, he was taken up, brought back, and laid in irons. He was an Irishman by birth, and had sailed in the Dutch service. No im- pediment now remaining, the ship pursued her course to the N. W. and N. W. by W. having four of tlie na- tives of Olaheite on board as passengers to Huaheine, to which she was bound, and where she cast anchor the same night. Here the captain was welcomed by king Oree, who came on board before the ship was well moored, bringing with him a hog as a present. On the 16th, abundance of canoes came alongside the ship to trade, bringing hogs, fowls, and fruit, of va- rious sorts, to barter for such things as were shewn them, of which each chose what he thought was mcsl valuable, according to the price that was set upon it. But while the greatest part of the people were engaged in traffic. Some were employed in an attempt to carry off one of the ship's buoys; these, however, were discovered be- fore they had accomplished cheir design, were fired up- on, and for safety obliged to jump into the sea, leaving their canoe behind them, which, b_y way of punishment, was taken on board, and cut up for the use of the cooks. This day the caplain and gentlemen went on shore to pay their compliments to the king and his noblet?, and Mr. Foster went up the country to examine its produc- tions; This he continued as a daily lask during the ship's continuance in this harbour. While he was thus em- ployed, some of the other gentlemen and officers went up into the woods a-shooling, and the captain employed himself in laying in provisions and increasing the ship's stores. The number of inhabitants that came about the ship was now so great, that it was found necessary LIEUTENANT COOK*S SECOND VoX^AGE. 35'h to place sentineh in the gang-ways, to prevent the men from coming on board, but no opposition was made to the women, so that the ship was crouded with them. On the 17th king Oree came and dined on board, and the captain ordered the guns to be shotted and fired by way of salute, at his entrance and departure ; he had given the captain to understand that he expected the same honours to be paid to him as had been shown to the chiefs of Otaheite. A report being current that the natives intended to rise and attack the ship, the captain, though he did not think them serious in such an attempt, was unwilling to- tally to o easy a task to •clear the ship from ilye impertinence's of the women; they all wanted presents before ihey departed, and when they were driven up one hatchway they ran down ano- ther, crying and bellowing as if nothing but ruin at- tended their return to shore ; however, when things came to the last extremity, and they saw the ship un- moored, and the sails spread, they betook themselves quietly to their canoes, though they afterwards made a terrible bellowing as they rowed away. They arrived at Ulielea on the 2Mh, without any thing remarkable intervening, except that Mara, the gunner's mate, who had been laid in irons for endeavour- ing to make his escape on shore at the ship's departure from Olaheite, was relea>ed, and made prisoner at large, with a centinel to attend him; but on his arrivsl in port he was a^ain put m irons. The next day Itie captain went ashore and visited the king and roy .1 family. The qu^'en, upon seeing hira, instantly lell into a fit of frenzy, striking herself with a shark's tooth till the blood ran from iier in streams. It 358 LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. is thecuslom to do thisbolli when ihey rejoice, and when ihey mean to express grief. As soon as the blood was done away, she received the captain with open arms. Aher a short stay, which exhibited a scene of mutual caresses, the captain returned on board with the queen, and a beauiiful young princess, her daughter, in com- pany. They were scarce on board when all the young girls in the bay were ready to enter, and it was abso- lutely necessary to keep out the men, to avoid confu- sion. The trade commenced very briskly on the 26th, b«t nothing was called for so eagerly as red feathers: so that the captain found it necessary lo order the men abaft, and to forbid them to traffic with red feathers, as it spoiled the provision trade. This day some bars of iron were taken from the hold, for the armourer's use, and some tons of stone-ballast stowed in the hold in their room. Some fixe-works were also this day displayed for the entertainment of the queen and royal family. Mr. Foster was now indefatigable in his researches after the natural productions of this country ; and in this island he was permitted to range without fear or molestation, wherever any thing that attracted his notice was to be found. On the 28th the gentlemen were invited by the kln^ to be present at a play. The title of the piece was Mi- didij Harramy, i. e. The Child is Coming. Their plays consist of three distinct modes of action; music, danc- ing, and farce. Their music is but mean, except their singing, which is plaintive and sweet; their dancing in- imitable; and their farce nearly similar^to the drolls of Bartholomew fair. In short, they are more laughable than the gentlemen expected, who returned not dis- 1,1EUTENANT COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. 359 pleased with their day's diversion, nor unaffected with the charms of some of the performers, who were the king's daughters, and decorated with flowers and orna- ments, so prettily interwoven witli their hair, as to add a grace to their natural beauty, that was quite irresisti- ble. Nothing could deform them but the distorted mouths they are taught to make, in varying tjie attitudes of their war dances, which are so exceedingly ugly, that none of the sailors, (sonje of whom are excellent mimics) could copy ihem. The pinnace and large cutter being moored every nijjhl at the buoy, as soon as it was light on the 2Slh, .it was discj\ered that the rudders and tillers of both vessels were wanting. Word being brought on board of this theft, the captain ordered the coxswain of the pinnace in irons, for his carelessness, and instantly went onshore to recover the los^; ; upon farther enquiry, he was to d, that the boat's grapnel was gone, as was like- wise the boat hook. On complaint to the king, his ma- jesty assisted the captain in the discovery of the thieves, and, after diligent enquiry, found out the person who had stolen the grapnels, and recovered them, as they hkewise did the persons who l-ad taken the rudders; but one of them was found split to get at the iron-work, and the other was returned without injury. The tiller of the pinnace and the boat's hook never were heard of; but in the room of them a large hog w^s brought, together with an immense heap of bread-fruit. About six the coxswain was released from his irons, as it was not in the power of man to guard against all the stratagems of the natives to steal iron. The pinnace and launch went to the south side of the island with the gentlemen on board, on the 30th, to pay 360 LIEUTENANT COOK*S SECOND VOYAGE. a visit to the friends of Oedidee, wlio had benn to tlie southward, and to restore him again in safety to their care. The captain was cautious of taking him to Eng- land, as he was not certain that any British ship wouldi again be sent to visit the island, and he was unwilHng t.t confine him in Europe. On the 4th of June preparations were made for put- ting to sea, and in the afternoon a breeze springing up fair, after taking leave of the royal family, and leaving tliem all in tears; and after entrusting a letter with Obidee to be given to Captain Furneaux, if he should happen to touch at that Island, they weighed anchor, and set sail. The number of hogs which were pur- chased was greater than they could find room for alive ; they therefore ventured to kill some of thera to salt, but they proved very indifferent meat. Nothing remarkable occurred til! the IGth, when land was seen from the mast-head, bearing N. N. E. They saw several dolphins and bonettoes, and caught three sharks. At one, being pretty near up with the land, they discovered seven small islands, full of cocoa- nut frees, surrounded with a reef, but saw no sign of any inhabitants; the whole circumference they com- puted to be about eight leagues. Finding no entrance ior ship, or boat, their pursued their course W. by S. On the 20th they saw land, bearing W. S. VV. At five they hauled up S. by E. thinking they saw another idand. About nine in the morning, of the 21st, they got close under the island, but found the coast craggy : the country, however, appeared to be full of trees, and on the S. E. side of it they could perceive them loaded with cocoa-nuts : they saw also plantain and banana-trees, in LIEUTENANT COOK*S SECOND VOYAGE. 361 s«|uares, as if planted by line. Being not above a mile from (he shore, many of the natives were observed t(» be in motion, and in less than an hour tbe beach was crowded with them. Sounding for anchorage, they •found no bottom; they therefore proceeded with an easy sail along the north sliore from W. to S. W. The N. E. part of the island is pretty round. Being now ar- rived at the west side of the island, they again saw se- veral of the natives in motion, having large clubs ancf spears in their hands. The captain ordered the pinnace and large cutter to be hoisted out, armed and well manned; and, taking with him several of ihe principal rfficers and gentlemen, he landed and took possession of (he island for his Britannic majesty, King George the Third ; hoisting at the same time an anion jack, and giv- ing it the name of Prince Frederick's Island, in honour of the Prince of Wales. No sooner was the ceremony over than one of the gentlemen received a severe blo'^ en the left arm with a stone, from an invisible hand. Looking up to the top of the rocks, which almost rose perpendicularly, they perceived a company of the na- tives almost over their heads, the foot of the rock not being more than thirty feet from the edge of the water. Seeing the savages had so much advantage over them, they judged it prudent to take to their boats, in which they continued to coast along the shore, in order to dis- cover a more cwnvenient place to land ; nor was it easy to find a place less dangerous than that which tliey had just left. The r.ext attempt tiiey made to land had well nigh proved fatal to the captain ; a savage from the rocks observing their motions, threw his spear with as- tonishing force, the direction of which was lull at the captain's body ; bat fortunately he saw it a-coming just uo. 12. 2 H 3^5 LIEUTENANT COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. lime enough, by stooping, to lei it fly over liis head; and wlieii it ieil it grazed the thigh oFone of tlie j^entle- nien thai stood heliind. The signal was th^:*" given to /ire upon lliem, v\hith was inces'>antly kept up lor some jime, during whicJi sojne of them were observed to drop, and the rest fled into the woods, and were no more seen, m^iking, however, a dreadful howling and yelling, as if calling together their whole force. The captain finding nothing to be got here without a great deal of bloodshed^ and without hazarding the lives of his people to no good purpose, thought proper to em- bark, and lo continue his course in search of a moie liospilable people, lo recruit his stores. The savages of this island may properly be so called: they were a fierce looking race, son^e with short, and others with long black hair, tied round their heads, and adorned with leathers. Their compleijion was a bright shining black, rjiade so by art, as their thighs were of a dark copper colour. They v.-ere nimble and active, stout and resolule; and were not easily di>^persed,cven when the great shot was fired an^ongsl them. Their conduct induced the captain to call this place Savage I>^land. On the 26lh they directed their course for the longest isle, of a cluster which they had seen the preceding day. Several canoes came from the isles indiscrimi- nately and brought plantains, bread-fruit, yams and fjsh. The people appeared in every respect like those of Amsterdam. Al noon they ca^t ariqhor on the north side of ihe island, about half a mile from the shore, in twenty one fathom water, red send, broken shells, and small stones; and presen ly hoisted out the large culler, and steadied ihe ship for the convenience of trade. This afternoon one of the natives got hold of the lead-line. ir£tJtET»ANT cook's SECOND VOYAGE, SSS anJ was making with it towards the shore, but being discovered, was shot at, brought back, and the line restored. Shaddocks, and }'aras, were brought in plenty. Several of the natives came off the next day wil!t hogs, fowls, fish, and fruit, but none were admitted on board. The common men were likewise Ibrbidden to trade with the natives, to prevent the ill-consequences of quarrels, that frequently happened in making their bargains. About seven in the morning the captain and master went in the pinnace, attended by a company of marines, in search of water, and about eight returned, having found a vvatcFing-place, but the water brackish. About nine the empty water-casks were sent on shore in the launch; and the pinnace and cutter went to traile, and in less than half an hour came back loaded; but, in- the hurry, the surgeon lost his fowling-piece. It wa* here observed, as at Amsterdam, that many of the natives were without their little finger; that not a few had scan* cut in the upper part of their cheeks, and others had several circles, one within another, on their nrrns, as if branded. It was understood that these were signs of mourning. The morning of the 28th being clear, they discerned from the mast-head two large i>lands to the northward, at the distance of sixteen or seventeen leagues, called by the Indians Tassua and Eka-u u. At six the launch was sent for water. Wiien she landed, the natives came about her in swafms, and one of them seized a car- louch-box, full of ammunition ; others wrested the se- cond lieutenant's fowling-piece from him; and others seized the cooper's bucket, with his adze, and a quan- lity of bungs in it, and instantly made off, Theboal^ 2 u2 364 LIEUTENANT COOK's SECOND VOYAGE, crew fired at them, and they dropped the bucket ; but kept (he adze, the fowling-piece, and the cartouch- box. They seemed indeed in les< dread of fire-arm$ than any of the savagej* they had yet met with ; for the fellow who took the cartouch-^jox, seized the muzzle of the gun which the soldier was about to point at him, directed it from him, and by that means got clear off with his booty. As the likeliest means to oblige them to restore their plunder, the captain caused a large saik ing canoe to be seized, to which they made some op- position. On the approacli of the party commanded on that service, of which the captain himself was the leader, the savages, all but one man, jumped overboard, but it was not till ihe vessel was hauled upon the beach that be could be prevailed upon to quit bis property; and when he did, he made towards the captain, armed with a desperate weapon, which he brandished with one hand over his head, and with the other clapped his breech. It was in vain that signs were made him to lay it down, but the captain presenting his piece at him, he then, being in some fear, dropped it gn the ground ; but the instant the piece was taken fro;n the captain's shoulder, that instant he snatched up his weapon, and advanced as before. The captain was now, in bis own defence, obliged to fire, but being unwilling to kill sq brave a fe!low, took aim where he could leastjnjure him, and sh(tt him in the thighs. The gun was loaded with swan shot, one of which pierced the very hand with which he was denouncing defiance ; he then ran howling to (he woods, and presently five or six of his companions came with him upon their backs, and seem- ed to supplicate relief. The surgeon very humanely dressed his wounds, applying to them a remedy he had Ll'fiUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYACrE. 365 learned among the Indians, of scraped sugarcane spread lipon a certain leaf. After this rencounter they seemed- very peaceable, and soon restored the fowling-piece and adze. The water being bad, the captain, unwill- ing to lose time, ordered the boats to be hoisted in, and Ibe ship to set sail. This island was called by the na- tives Anamocka ; the same to which Tasman gave the name of Rotterdam^ and where he received quite differ- ent treatment. The next day they directed their course to the large islands, which they had descried the day before, and kept on sounding all the way, from sixty to thirty-nine fathom w-ater. The natives followed the ship all day with provisions to trade. On the 30th, in the afternoon, they approached tl;^ islands. On the lowest, and westernmost of ihe two, they observed a continual smoke issuing from a hill, the easternmost endtjf which gave them reason to think that a burning mountain subsisted somewhere in that direc- tion, and it was not long before they were convinced of the'lruth of their conjecture. About five in the after- noon they were in full sail between the islands, the low- est of which the Indians, who followed the ship to trade, called Tussua. It appeared in some places so burnt, that they could plainly discover from the ship, by the appearance of trees, how far the conflagration had reached. As soon a< they were to leeward of the burn- ing mountain, though it was not just then raging, tlie people could perceive, by the smart of their eyes, when they looked to windward, tiiat the very air was impreg- nated With sulphureous atoms. On the 1st of July they pursued their course, and the next day discovered laud, bearing about W. by N. half 2 H 3 366 LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE, N. and bore away towards it, steering to N. W. The large culler having been ?enl to sound and examine the shore, the officer reported that no anchorage was practi- cable; and after examining the coast for a considerable way, allempting in vain to get some turtle, of which by several symptoms there was reason to suppose there were many about the island, they made sail and pursued their course. On this island they saw several natives, but none came on board. On ihe 16th ihey saw land from the mast-head, bear- ing W. S. W. prodigiously high, not more than eight leagues distant ; the weather being hazy, prevented their seeing it before. It blowing a storm they neared it fast, but could not venture in with tiie land. It appeared very pleasant, and full of trees. In ihe evening they ■wore ship and bore away to the N. E. On the ISlh they saw two large islands, bearing S, X. by E. fuil of trees, and much like the most fruilfu^ parts of New-Zealand, with several cascades ancf rivu- let=5 of water, which made them long to reach theshore^ At noon they were within hearing of the natives, bub could neither discern bay, sound or harbour, wherein- to cast anchor. The next day they tacked and stood for the land. Between the first and second isles they could plainly perceive a strait or passage; but the wind blow- ing right out, they continued working from one isle to^ the other, endeavouring to get in, till they could plainly distinguish the words of the savages, and could hear them cry wyhanna, heea>. waving their hands at the same lime, as if inviting ihem to come and land. In the mean time, two or three of their canoes came out; but it blowing hard, they could not venture alongside. The- people were of a dark copper colour,, shock-haired*- LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VCVaCE, 3G7 vllb no other clothing than a white sash sound the waisf^ the tyes of which hung down before, and reached to the middle of the thigh. About eleven at night they got some distance within the two lar^e islands that formed the strait, and kept tacking every two hours the whole night. The next day they could see four islands, very high and very extensive. At ten they were close undef the south end of tlie largest island, where they saw mul- titudes of the inhabitants, who lined the rocks, bellow- ing and howling; and saw also many smokes within- land. At eleven they carne in sight of a large and higlv island from the mast head, lying to windward. Having lacked and stood for the high island, on the- 2 1st they came in sight of two other large isles, on one of which was a burning mountain. About twelve, be- ing near one of those isles, great numbers of savages- presented themselves, armed with clubs,^ spears, and bows and arrows. They stood in for a pleasant bay that presented itself in tiie isle which lies at the west end of that on which the burning-mountain was situ- ated. At four they hove to, and hoisted out the boats, armed them, and sent them in to sound ; at four they made the signal for anchcrage, and at five the ship eame to an anchor in nine fathom water with a fine san- dy bottom. The ship was scarcely moored before the natives came off in their canoes from the east side of the bay, and many swam from the west side;; the distance being not above a quarter of a mile. They were of the negro kind, quite black, and woolly-headed, poor mean despicable-looking wretches, but armed with bows and poisoned arrows, with every, one a club made of hard wood, slung over his shoulders. They were quite naked^ except a girdle, or piece of malting, lied round I 368 lieutk:*:ant cook's sfecoNO voya'^?, the waist, and drawn so tight that it was with difficulty that a finger could be thrust between itand the skin : they had on one wrist a piece of- wood or bore, so nice- ly jointed that it was not easy to discover the seam ^ this too was so tigiil that many imagined it must have been put on when lliey were very young, and that th« wrist had grown up to it ; for, being curiou>iy emboss- ed, it was at first thought to be one piece, and nobody suspected to find a joint. Some of ihem were marked on their bodies, but very different from any they had be- fore seen ; for, instead of being smooth and seemingly indented within the skin, theii marks appeared rough. End raised above it. As soon as they approached the' ship, or came near any of the crew, they sprinkled water over their heads and patted their lieads with their open hands, crying Towmarrow, Towmarrow ; but offering no kind of rudeness, nor misbehaviour of any kind. They kept about the ship, with lights, after it was dark^ ' and when they had sufficiently gratified their curiosity,- they went quietly away. Their boats were of a form" very different from any they had before seeji, being rais-- ed higher in the middle than at each end. Great numbers of them came the next day about the ship, and some came on board. At first they shewed no disposition to mischief, but leaped about, and admired'- every thing they saw. Being urrwilling, however, to ' go away, and many of them pressing to be admitted at once, it v^'as found necessary to oppose their attempts, which brought on a quarrel, and several of them let fiy their arrows from their canoes, against which thecreiv were upon their guard, as suspecting their intent. The marines were then ordered to fire, and in a short time the ship was cleared of such unwelcome visitors. On« XIEUTKNANT COOk's SECOND TOYAGE. 369* of the rellow'5, however. In going off, let fly an arrow, as was supposed, against one of the officers; but he paid for his audacity with his hfe. In the afternoon the captain ordered out the pinnace, and with a party of marines well armed, went on shore. The natives, on seeing them land, made a hah, and stood quite still. The captain, willing to make friends wilh them, shewed them some articles of European manufacture, and some of Indian ; and made signs for them to lay aside their weapons, and sit down, which they obeyed. He then went up to them, and presented iheir chief with a iew trifles, wilh which he seemed very much pleased j he next acquainted them that the ship was in want of wa- ter, but they either did not or would not understand him; and seeing there was none to begotten without bloodshed, nor any wood to be had but what was as hard as brazil, the captain returned on board, and pre- pared to sail. None of these people brought either flesh or fruit to dispose of; nor could the captain pro- cure more than one lean hog, though there were many within sight. Those who were of the wooding party saw several of their women, who, they reported, were considerably uglier than the men. At ten they caught a shark about twelve teet long : in hauling him neai the boat, he gave a sudden plunge, and, seizing the stem in his mouth, left two of his teeth buried in the wood, and it was with the utmost danger and difficulty that five of the boat's crew could get the better of him. In dissect- ing his head for one of the gentlemen to preserve his jaw-bones, three inches of an Indian arrow was found buried in his brains. On the 2.'id they got clear out of the bay by towing, thcindians following them in their canoes. Several of the 570 LIEUTENANT COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. gentlemen fell sick, as supposed, by eating the large red ground fish whicli they had caught in the bay : they were stren^^thened in this opinion by the dogs being tak- en ill that had eaten llie fragraenls ; and one of the hog<;, that had taken what the dog's brought up, actually died ; being opened, the liver and intestines were tnrned qaite black. Though the people had no notion of trade, yek seveial of the sailors prevailed on some of them to partr with their bows and arrows, which they exciianged lor beads and other trifles; but their spears nothing thai was offered them could purchase. From the circum- stances of the gentlemen's falling sick, and the natives using poisoned arrows, the captain named this bay Ve- nomous Bay. The ncHt day (hey saw four unknown islands, sur- rounded with a reef. One island they called Three Hills, as it had three high peaked hills upon it ; another they called :>hepherd*s Isles. A number Oi" small island* were in sight for several days. They could see from the decks the natives of several isles running along the beaches to look at ihe ship. Continuing their course to the S, they drew near the southern islands, which they found to consist of one large island and three or four smaller ones. The two northernmost, which are much the largest, they called Montague and Hinchinbrook. Islands, and the large one Lord Sandwich's Island. On the istof August they bore away S. by W. round the north-west end of Hinchinbrook Island. At four in the afternoon they saw several of the natires, who appeared in every respect the same as the savages in Venomous Bay. Tliey made signs for our navigators to- land, by waving green boughs, the emblems of peace, and some of tliem jumped into the water, and made lor LlEUTEflANT COOK S SECOND VOYAGE. 371 the ship ; but ihe ship making way, Ihey were soon distanced. Having then bore away N. E. of an island they had already passed, the next morning they brought to an an- chor in ten fathom water, rocky ground. Great num- bers of the nativescame swimmang towards the ship^ but on the boats being hoisted out they all made to land agrtin. Their yeiiings were different from any they had yet heard. Earlv on the 4ih the pinnace and large cutler went off to examine the coa holding a child over the smoke, had the curiosity to enquire the reason, who made them understand, by shewing the cjiild^s eruptions, ihat it was troubled witb the itch. While the people were employed in searching for ballast, they discovered water issuing from the crevices of a rock, hot enough to draw tea. Two of the shipV company, who had been troubled with rheumatic ccirT- plaints, at times, throughout the voyage, went, accom- panied with the surgeon, to bathe in the water, but found the stones so hot underneath that they could not Stand upon them, without first plunging in seme of their 2 I 3 378 LIEUTENANT COOK*S SECOND VOYAGE. cold garments, lo keep the soles of their feet from touch- ing them. In one pFace the waters were so hot there was no bearing the finger in Ihera : in another they were just hot enough to bear lo plunge the whole body, but not to remain anv considerable time. Here the water being very conveniently situated, not above thirty or forty yards from the shore, the casks were filled almost as soon as they could be cleaned and repaired; and there being plenty of wood, these two necessary articles were fully completed; and the boats, before the other repairs could be accomplished, had (ime to recruit the ballast, in proportion as the ship's stores were expended. During the ship's stay, the people were plenlifully supplied with fish and fruil; but of pork, or other animal food, there was little to be pro- cured. Having been already ten days in repairing the ship, taking in wood and water, purchasing fruits, &c. the natives began again to be troublesome, watching every opportunity to level their arrows at the guard, and re- strained only by the fear of their muskets from proceed- ing to extremities. Having occasion for some large tim- ber to supply the decays of the ship, orders were given, a few days before their intended departure to cut down a tree of vast growth, and for the convenience of get- ting it on board, to saw it into three pieces. This tree so divided, the natives eyed wilb pleasure, not suspect- ing that the strangers intended to carry it ofi', but to le«ve it in compliment to them, as it suited exactly their ideas of constructing just double the number of canoes. To the cutting down and sawing the natives made no opposition ; but when they saw the sailors employed in rolling down the body of the tree to the water's edge. LIEUTENANT COOK*S SECOND VOYAGE. S79 they could not help looking surly; and one of them, (who probably was more interested than the rest) was frequently seen to offer his spear at the labourers, but ■was restrained, for fear of the guard ; at length he watched his opportunity, and, starting from behind a a bush, was levelling an arrow full at the commanding ^fficer, when he was discovered, and shot dead. The ball lore his arm to pieces, and entered his side. His companions instantly carried off the body, and laid it in the wood, where the ship's surgeon went to examine it, but found it totally deprived of life. The crew were now permitted to go ashore by turns, for the preservation of their health ; but the captain, knowing the natives wanted nothing so much as an op- portunity to revenge the death of their companions, strictly enjoined them never to walk alone, nor to stray more than an hundred yards from the guard. In the mean lime preparations were making on board to set sail ; the ship was smoaked above and below, the hold fresh stowed, and the ballast shifted. Though the people on this island, after feeling the effects of the European fire-arms, were peaceable, they were not friendly, nor were ihey, like the Indians in the Society Isles, fond of iron; they wished for some of the tools with which they saw the sailors cut down wood; bu(, except an adze or two, they never attempted to steal any thing. The coopers left their casks during the night unguarded, nor were they under apprehensions about their cloaths, which ihey suffered to lie carelessly about while they were at work. These people disco- vered none of that disposition to thievery, which is na- tural to the generality of Indians. In their course of li;ade, they totally disregarded beads and baubles, and 380 LIEUTENANT COOK*S SECOND ♦oYAGE, seemed to prefer Rotterdam fish-hooks and turlle-shel/, to ever^ tliirg else that was ollered them. The^ suffer- ed the sailors to have no communication with their wo^ men ; nor were they easily persuaded to part with their arms on any atcount. The produce of the island they freely parted with ; but on whatever required labour in the construction, iJiey set a high value. The islands which compose this Archipelago are not easily numbered. Our navigators counted upwards of seventy in si^ht at one time; they seem to be inhabited by people of very different natures and complexions. Some they saw wooDy-headed, and of the African race; others of a copper colour, not unlike the New Zealand- ers; and others they saw of the mulatto colour; and not a few like the natives of Rotterdam, of a brownish black, with long hair and sliorn beards. The inland on which Captain Cook chose to refit is situated in lat. I9«30'S. and in long. 169'^38'E. It is called by the natives Tanna, and the bay where the ship cast anchor Providence. Where the effects of the volcano did not reach, the island is fertile, abounding in fruits of various sorts, which grow to a vast magni- tude: a yam which was weighed, exceeded fifty-five pounds, and other fruits in proportion. The trees too are of an extraordinary size; but a wide circle in the interior part of the island, discovered nothing to the eye but a dreary waste, covered with cinder?, and tainting the air with sulphur. Other surrounding islands looked pleasant to ihe eye; but, according to the report of the natives of Tanna, abounded in nothing of which they themselves were in want. Early on the 20lh, the captain gave orders to welgU anchor, and about ten in the morning made sail to the 6 LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. 381 S. S. W. with the wind at S. S. E. On the 2'2d ihey came abreast of the isle called Harramango, where the quarrel happened, in which a multitude of the inhabit- ants were killed, and where some of the ship's company were wounded, as lias been already related. About eleven they came in sight of Lord Sandwich's island, which is very large, and pleasant. The next day they came in sight of the famous isle of Monicolo, and sailed along shore N. W. and N. W. by N. It has a most beautiful appearance, full of planta- tions, and all of them well fenced. They were fre- quently so close to shore that they could hear the na= tives hollow (o them. Being arrived nearly at the west end, they discovered a passage, (the same they had passed before two days after they had discovered these islands); and night approaching, they shortened sail, and lay to. In the night many fires were seen on the island. On the 25th they entered the large deep bay called St. Philip and St. James, discovered by Mindana in 1595. There being a fine breeze from the S. S. W, they stood pretty well into the bay on the 2'6th, the en- trance to which lies N. by W. At two they hoisted out the pinnace and large cutter, armed them, and sent them to search for anchorage, in order to exchange their water taken in at Tanna, it proving very bad; While the boats were employed in examining the coast, three catioes came close to the ship, and struck their sails, but the men w-iuld not venture to come on board. The gentlemen threw them some medals, cloth, and nails; the latter of which were most joyfully received. In return they offered some plants of cinnamon trees, which they had in their boats. They had likewise in their ca- 582 LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOVAGE. noes long spears, headed with llie lail-bones of ihe stin- gray, but did not shew tfie least disposition to mischief. They were black and woolly-headed, and were naked, except a belt tied light round their waists, in like man- ner with the people before described. They are of the middle stature, and wear bracelets, a> most of the peo- ple in these islands do, but differ in one respect, by or- nanvenling their heads wilii plumes of leathers, like the inhabitants of New Zealand. About four in the after- noon the boats returned, without being able to discover a watering-place, or any sate anchorage within the bay : they saw, however, a large river, but no harbour with- in reach. Several of the inhabitants came in sigiit, but were very shy, and kept at a distance. Upon this in- telligence they hoisted the boats on board, and made sail out of the bay, at the mouth of which they lay off and on all night. On the 4-th oP September they came in sight of land, bearing about E. and S. by E. which wa^ called Cape Colnet, after the midshipman who discovered it. About twelve they saw the land more plain, large, and exten- sive, and the next day worked well in with the land. Seeing twenty or thirty canoes standing towards the ship, they thought it advisable to load the great guns, anxi to prepare for defence, in case of opposition. About eight they hoisted out the pinnace and large cutter, and sent them forwardi to examine an Opening which they ob- served in the reef. They returned, having found a clear passage, and very regular soundings Ircii-i eight and a half to five and a half fathoms water. At one the ship came to an anchor withni half a mile of the land. In less than half an hour the ship was surrounded with the natives, mostly armed with clubs, spears, and slings, the LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. 383 stones of which were of the size of an egg, smooth and round as if turned in on engine : they appeared, how- ever very peaceable, and several were admitted on board. They were most of them, bat not all, flat-nosed and woolly-headed, of a middling stature, and naked, except about their waists. All the islanders seen in this Archipelago are nearly naked alike, having no other clothing but a girdle, sometimes of one fabric, sometimes of another, drawn tight about their middles, and so con- trived as to cover them as low as the haunches. Some of the natives here, like those of Easter Island, have holes bored in their ears, and wear heavy ornaments In ihera, which draw them down to a frightful length; and some of them were punctuated with sprigs of flow- ers and other figures upon their breasts, arms, and legs. Their chiefs wear large black caps on their heads, and have ornaments of bone, tortoise-shell, or mother-of- pearl, upon their arms. Their canoes are all double, and sail with two sails made of matting. They are built with a room across, which gives them the appearance of large floating stages, and are capable of carrying a great number of men. They are not rowed with oars or pad- dles as most other canoes are, but skulled along with long poles flatted at the ends, and let down through holes be- tween the boats, and with these they guide their vessels in sailing or turning. They use straps for their spear>^, such as are in use among the natives of Tanna, but more curiously wrought. They seem to be a warlike people, from the naany deep scars with which they are marked ; but what was remarkable, many of them appeared to be broken-bellied, and not a few were blind of one eye. As soon as tke ship was properly secured, the captain 384. LIEUTENAKT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. and several of the gentlemen went on shore in the pin- nace, to establish peace with the chiefs, who all seemed very well disposed ; and when they returned, they ex- pressed their satisfaction at the manner of being receiv- ed. One of the chiefs, Teabooma, paid them a visit on the 8th, with a present, for which he was amply re- warded. Their houses were very different from any they had before seen^ and were built in the form of bee- hives, with each two doors opposite one to the other, to let in the air, and let out the smoke, of which they stunk most abominably. Their plantations are pleasant beyond, description, and are chiefly cultivated by the women, who likewise have the care of the children, and carry the burdens. They are more slenderly covered in this island than in most of the others, and differ very little in that respect from the men, and like them too are mostly black and woolly- headed. The island does not abound in variety of fruits; but the gentlemen who went up into the country reported that they saw wild-fowl in abundance, as well as tame. The captain made the chief who welcomed him on shore and who afterwards visited him on board, a present of a sow and boar, and of some other animals, males and females, of which they had none upon the island. On the 6th, the astronomer, with the captain and of- ficers, went to a small isle adjoining to the main to ob- serve an eclipse of the sun, which happened between the hours of two and three in the afternoon; and it being a clear day, they had a fine opportunity of determining the time of its duration with the utmost exactness. LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. 383 Having discovered a clear stream of running water, the carpenters and others were em plowed in cutting down trees and bushes, to make a rolhng way, to facilitate (he labour of conveying the water to the sea-side. This was of infinite use, and shortened the ship*sstay several days. On the 9th the launch and large cutter were sent to examine the coast, and to endeavour to find a passage for the ship, without going round the island. They were not seen till the I ith, when they were espied at a great distance, beating up to recover the ship. About four in the afternoon some of the gentlemen, who went out in the boats, and who travelled over land a considerable way, came on board, and brought an account that the large cutter had sprung a leak; and that the launch had carried away her fore-yard ; that the cutter had tbrtu- nately reached the shore, and stopped her leak; and that the launch had made >hili to supply her loss, by a new contrivance, which necessity had suggested ; they likew ise related the manner of their travelling across the country, anrl of the civility they received from the na- tives, wherever they had occasion to refresh, bringing Ihera sugar-cane and tarra root, which ihe natives here call by the name of coao. In the cnur-^e of iheir jour- ney, they passed b) several of the burning places oi iheir dead, which were equal, in nealne-s and regularity, to those in the Society Isles. In their plantations there were several low cocoa-nul trees, as if but lately plant- ed, and in the low iDarshesnol a few maygroves. In the woods they saw the marks of many fiies, ahoui which the shells of fishes were scattered in plenty ; from whence it was conjeciured that the natives iive chief^^ upon shell-fish, as neither bread-fruit nor plantains seemed to NO. 44. 2 K 386 LIEUTENANT COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. abound ; and that those yams that were brought to mar- ket were held very precious. The bread they chiefly use is made of the tender shoots of a certain tree, not un- Jike to hqaorish-root in colour and grain. These stew- ed in an earthen pot, when ready, have much the same taste as roasted potatoes. In the evening the boats re- covered the ship, afier a v^y fatiguing voyage, in which they were much incommoded by the weather. The next day the carpenter's mate, by the captain's order cut the following inscription on a large tree, " His Britannic Majesty's ship Resolution, 17" i- : " and early on the I'iih they weighed anchor, and made sail with the wind E. S. E. steering to clear the passage between the reefs, by which they entered the harbour. After- wards they bore away for the east end of the isle, W. by N. and W. N. VV. In the afternoon they saw an island bearing S. by E. at a great distance. At seven two more islands came in sight, one bearing S. W. the other W. by N. On the 11-th they tacked and stood to the northward, the reef si ill a-head. On the 15ih they bore away W. N. W. At eight they tacked, seeing the reef a-head, and stood S. E. by E. wind E. by N. At two it (111 calm, the reef not being above a league' and a half distant, and a light breeze from the eastward, with a heivy swell from the northward, which set in on the reef: the whoir crew were now alarmed with the apprehension of danger, "which wa« not a little increased by a dead calm that im- mediately succeeded, the ship's drill being right in upon the reef. The p'nnace and large cutler, as the only m<^ans to save the ship, were hoisted out with great alertness, and both being employed in towing the ship LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. 3^7 off with Inconceivable labour, (in which those who uere engaged were relieved every two hours,) they cleared the reef, but not till the next day. They now began to direct their course to the south- eastward, and it was soon conjectured by'the ship's com- pany that the place to which they were bound was New-Zealand ; but it was not till the 21st that tliey cleared the land. This island must therefore be of con- siderable extent, and it does not appear that any Euro- pean vessel ever before visited it : Captain Cook gave it the name of New Caledonia : it is situated partly be- tween the 19th and 22d degrees of south latitude, and in longitude \G5^ 50' E. ; at a distance it appears very Jofty and mountainous. Its extent from north to south is full ninety leagues ; from east to west unknown. On the 24th, about four in the afternoon, steering E. S. E. they came in sight of two sma'l isles off the east point of the great island. The next day they bore away S. by VV. and saw several small islands to the eastward of the main. At three in the afternoon they changed their course E. S. E. Seeing white water a-head they hauled up to the east. The-;e isles were full of trees, and some of them had tiie appearance of statues, suclt as were seen on Easter Island. On the 28th the man at the mast-head called aloud. High Land. About one in the afternoon they saw the land from the deck extending as far as the eye could car- ry, bearing W. S. W. and \V. by S. Wlien they hauled up, the high land in sight bore about N N. W. distance eight or nine league^. At four ihey saw breakers almost all round them ; accordingly they tacked, and st; od to* the N. that being the clearest passage. Having sound- ed, they got every thing in readiness to cast anchor In- 2 K 2 388 LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. forty fathom water ; but the wind blowing bard, and the breakers and shoals multiplying about them, present- ed noiliing but danger; it was therefore determined to bear a^vay, and lo take shelter under the lee of a small isle about four le.igues from the high land, where they d'o;«ped anchor in thirty-nine fathom water, with a fine shell V lx)ttom. The captain and gentlemen went on shore the next day, and found that the island was frequented by the I: dians, who had made many fires in the woods, about wJiich lay scattered the bones and shells of fish ; they foii'iri likewise two canoes buried' in the sand upon the beach, and the callipee of a lurile at some distance from the water's edge. 1 iiey found no water upon the island; and, atier a fruitless search, returned onboard very mijch fatigued; the carpenters, however, were sent on shore, who cut eight or nine straight spars, which were much wanted ; and having maile some necessarjr repairs in the masts and rigging, they weighed anchor, and narrowly escaped tumbling upon a sunken rock, which they discovered jusit uiider their lee-bow. Steering to the S. E. they discovered that the high land was a part of New Caledonia, which they discovered on the 4ih instant ; they therefore kept on their course. The : ext day they lost sight of lanvJ, and tlien made all the sail they could E- by S. The weather being fine on the 6lh, and the gentle- men seeing many birds about the ship ordered out the boat, and went a-shooting. About two in the alternoon they returned, having killed four large albatrosses, and several small birds. On the 8th they struck a small por- poise, as the sailors imagined ; but, having pursued and brought it aboard, the naturalists were divided ; and, 5 LIEUTENANT COOK's SECOND VOVAGE. 389 by the most knowing. It was said to be an ancient dol- phin. The next day ihey struck another, and broke the harpoon in him close to the sockets. The former being dressfd proved very good meat. Early on the lOlh they came in sight of land, bearing about S. and S. S. W. ; at six it appeared high and full of trees; at one, being close by it, they hoisicd out the pinnace and large cutler; and the captain, with two of his lieutenants, went on shore to reconnoitre the coasts and at the sanie lime taking the carpenter's crew along with them to fell some trees, ol which there were abun- dance large enough for masts for third-rate men of war, and others fit for yards, boltsprils, and all other uses^ about the ship. They met with no inhabitants, nor any obstruction whatever. The woods abounded with par- rots and parroquets, pigeons, and other birds ; but they found no water. The island appeared broken and bar- ren in many places ; but in the vallies between the hills^ nothing could look more beautiful. It was called Nor-^ folk I"^land. At five in the afternoon the boats came In from the shore, and having been iioisted in, the ship- stretched away to the eastward, with intent to go to the windward of the isle. In this course they passed a-small uninhabited island, on which there grew abundance o£ cabbage-lrees; ol these the ship's crew m.ade the pro- per use. On the 13lh they saw something ahead that very much resembled land; but, on nearing it, found it only a fog-bank. On the 16th the wind suddenly changed, and blew a storm, with thunder, lightning, and rain. The next , day they cam.e in sight of land, bearing S. E. by EU- 2K-a 390 LIEUTENANT COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. half E. It proved (o be Cape Egmont, in New Zealand, almost covered with snow. On the 1 8tli they anchored in Charlotte Saund, in New Zealand, within a mile and a halfof their former birth. They now hoisted out the large and small cutter, and sent them onshore, to see if the bottle had been re- moved, that was left with directions for the Adventure. They re'urned, and brought word that the tree, under, which it was deposited, had been cut down, and the bottle taken away, but whether by the natives, or by the Adventure's crew, they could not determine. Tiiey hauled the seine, but could catch no fish; however, they gathered scurvy-grass and wild celery in plenty, which ■were no less acceptable Here the fowlers killed wild fowl in abundance, and (he crew being almo=?t all of them in health, were little less rejoiced than if they had arrived on the coast of England. The next day they moored the ship, and sent the lenls on shore; began to cut down wood, and prepare lor watering; but wondered that none of the natives came in sight. These savages undoubtedly imagined that the ship was come to revenge the death of the Adventure's men, whom they had killed and eaten, but being soon relieved from that dread, they came about the ship as usual, bringing fish, and whatever else the island pro- duced, and behaving in seemingly a friendly manner. Here the ship's crew pitched their tents as usual, and all hands were employed in repairs, of various kinds; the gentlemen in reconnoitring the country, and the captain in surveying the Sound, in which he discovered a passage leading into the main ocean, through several channels, twelve or thirteen leagues from the entrance of the Sound. While ihe pinnace was employed in liiis LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE, 29i discovery, she was clogged ihe whole day by a large double canoe, which, however, did not dare to attack her, though encouraged by the savages on shore, who heaved stones at the pinnace, but did not reach her« The gentlemen, who went out a shooting, found a hog upon Long Island, left there, as was supposed, by the Adventure; she was very wild, and took to the woods as soon as discovered. Several of the crew went after- wards lo hunt hi. r, but without effect. During their intercourse with the natives, they were given to understand that a 'jhip had been ca>t a\"^ ay upon the coa>l, and that the natives had overcome Ihe people, killed tijem, and eat ihem. Just beloie their departure, several strange Indians came revving down the Sound, having a variety of arti- cles, the produce of the country, to dispose of; some curiously wrought in ja- per, s<»me in wood ; and not a few in reeds and matting. Some of iheir c(>un!ry cloth they brought likewise, and exchanged for Olaheite clolh and cocoa-nut shells, of wJiich last they were very fond, and of which there were some thou-;ands on board. These savages had with ihera seven or eight voung red painted-lipped cannibal ladies, who were by no means unwilling to be introduced to the company of such of the ship's crew as fancied them. The gunner's mate, who had been confined in irons for endeavouring to leave the ship at Otaheite, was here punished with twelve lashes, for going ashore vv;ilhout leave, in pursuit of one of those beauties. After staying in this harbour, from the 19th of Octo- ber till the 10th of November, and after taking in their full quantity of wood and water, for a long run, they ^weighed anchor, and made sail with a fine breeze^ 592 i*;eutenant cook's second voyagf, blowing right out of the harbour. On the 12lh they cleared the land, and steering a S. S. E. course, till they came into the 53d degree of southern latitude, they con- tinued in that parallel nearly till they came in sight of land between the Strails of ^Magellan and Cape Horn. In this long run, and in this high latitude, they met wilh not the least obstruction; they were favoured by wind and weather; for, from ihe time of their de{)arlure till the 17th of December, the weather, considering the cli-- mate, was moderalel) warm, and wind not unfavour- able. On this day they.rame in ^ignt of land, whicb proved the south side of Terra del Fuego, very rugged, and full of snow. There appeared, however, a great many isles and entrances; but the whole country pre- sented neither tree nor shrub. This was the first run that had been made directly across this ocean in a higb southern latitude, and without any interesting occur- rence—they now took their leave of the South Pacific Ocean. On the 18th, they passed a projecting point, which was called Cape Gloucester, and has much the appear- ance of being an island. On the COth, they stood in for land, v> hlch appeared as barren as a desart, but the weather being clear and mo- derate, the whales were sporting, and throwing up the water like so many fountains, all along the coast. They discovered a fine bay, and stood towards it, but there being little wind, they hoisted out the pinnace, the large and small cutler*, and lowed close in shore, and about nine at night caine to an anchor in twenty-five fa- thom water. On the 21st they sent out the boats to search for water^ who ia the afternoon returned, having succeedr LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. 393 ed. Some of (he officers who were on board (he boats killed a great niimbei of wild geese, not indeed so large as the geese in England, but much handsomer. On iheir report the ship unmoored, and when steadied again, she was land-locked on every side, so that no wind could blow to hurt her. On reconnoitring the country, they found a small q lanlily of wild celery, and at some distance from the shore discovered trees, the bark of vvhicli lasted like pepper. Though the ships that passed the Straits of Magellan experienced great hardships in navigating that narrow jea, and were exposed to innumerable dangers, owing to the strong tides and uncertain weather, yet our navi- gaUKs, by rounding Cape Horn, escaped all these in- conveniences. The weather was fine, though somewhat cold, and, by a diligent search, they found wood as well as water, sufficient to supply their wants. While the crew was employed in cutting wood and filling water, Captain Cook, Mr. Foster, &c. were vi- gilant in examining the coast. About five or sixTniles from the place where the ship rode at anchor, he came to a cove, where he found the frame of a wigwam, or two, in which some Indians had formerly rested, and where they had made a fire, and feasted upon shell-fish. He likewise met with some sea-towl, that could not fly, but fluttered very fast upon the surface of the water, and were such ready divers, that though the captain, and the gentlemen who accompanied him, fired several times, and hit the very spot on which they were fluttering, yet they never could kill one of them. While the ship lay at anchor in this bay, one William Wedgborough, a marine, was missing, and nobody could give any account of him. About twelve o'clock 394- LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. at night, on the 2'2il of December, he was drinking in company with tlrree or four more of hi«; comrades, and after that he wa> never seen; he was a fine hearty jolly feh'ow, about twenty-four years of age, and well re- spected by all his corps. Two or three days after the arrival of the ship a canoe came in sight, with a family of the natives, paddling between the isles, probibly gathering limpets and shell- fish. Tiicy took little or no n(;tice of the ship, and kept atadi«tance; but, in less than a week, several other boats appeared, and some of the Indians ventured to come on board. They were naked, all but a seal skin thrown carelessly round their shoulders, and pinned upon their breasts with a kind of skewer. Some had of lamented their heads with feathers, made up in various forms ; but every other part of their bodies, except their backs, was without covering, women as well as men. They bore, notwithstanding, a very healthy appear- ance; and, except a continual >hivc-ring, whitii perhaps was natural to tliem, they made no bad figure. They were painted of a dark kind of red, or copper colour, from head to foot, intermixed with streaks of other co- lours upon their arms and thighs. Their wigwams were only temporary dwellings, made . of the slender boughs of trees, arched over like so many arbours, and covered with the branches and leaves of the winter's bark tree. In these they make their fires, and dress their meat. In one of them that had been de- serted, on the approach of a party of sailors, there uas the leg of a goose ready dressed, and the remains of some fish, on which it was suppose ! they had dined. Their canoes differ but liitle from those of the other Americans; they are made of the baik ollar^e trees. LIEUTENANT COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 395 put together with great labour, and covered with seal- skins : the) differ nuich from the canoes in ihe Tropical Islands, being very wide in proportion to their length, and having a quantity of earth in them, on which, in Iheir fishing seasons, they make their tires. It should seem that these canoes are each the property of a sepa- rate family, for in every canoe there were women and children. The men did not express either fear or wonder on coming on board : but their reason for hiding them- selves on shore seemed to be lest their women and chil- dren should be taken from them, and carried into capti- vity. Their language is hoarse and guttural. The captain gave orders that no purchase should be made with them, without giving them clothing in ex- change : but there was nothing of which they were pos- sessed that they would not sell, their bows and arrows, their spears, their fishing tackle, their utensils of every kind, all came to market. Whatever was given them to assuage their hunger they would eat voraciously; and wiienever they went oft' from the ship they never failed to entertain the company with a dance. While they remained at anchor, the people on board vs'ere in want of fresh provisions, they found wild- fowl in such abundance, ihal numbers of them were killed and sailed down for future use, and not a lew kept alive, especially geese; and of surv)-gras5 and wild celery they were in no want, after the countiy tame to be bet- ter knokvn. It being the height of summer, they found meadows thai might have been mowed, and ilie grass made into hay ; and there were, many plants and ilow- ers that were exceedingly beautiful, and totally unknown (o our European botanists. 396 LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. The repairs being at length compleled/and wood and water supplied, on ihe 27lh of December the ship pre- pared to sail ; and on the 2Slh they weighed and put to sea. Tiieir course out of the bay, to v\hich they gave the name of Chrislwas Sound, was S. by E. and S. S. E. Its lat. 54" 21'. Tiiey pursued their course to the N. E. by N. and N N, E. halfE. till they came off Suc- cess Bay, where the Endeavour anchored in iier former vovage, and where the present navigators had appointed to rendezvous, in case of sepaiation from the Adven- ture ; they therelore hoisted the large cutter out to make search if any token had been lell of that ship's anchor- ing there ; but no such token having been found, they returned, after cutting the ship's name and date of the year on a large tree adjoining to the strand. While this was doing, they saw thirty or forty of the natives, who came out of the woods to welcome them on shore, one of whom ihe sailors remembered. He made motions for knives, but there were scarce any on board. The people here seemed rather stouter than those about Christmas Sound; bat made no figure as giants. On the 30; h they directed their course to Staten's Land, in the passage to which the whales were so nu- merous and large, ihat the crew thought themselves in danger of the ship's being overset b) (hem: penguins and seals were likewi^ce in plenty. At half past nine in the n^oining they bore away S. E. and got close under a pleasant long isle, which appeared lo be clolhrd with a verdure equal to any ihey had yet seen. At half past ^en they heard a great noi>c, like the lowing of many cattle, but soon found thai ii was the roaring ot the sea- lions thai li;iiboureil upon the Ci)ast. At hall after one the next day they came lo, between LIEUTENANT COOK. S SECOKD VOYAGE. 397 the east side of tiie Green Island, and the west side of Staten Land, distant about three leagues from each). -About one the boats were hoisted out, and about forfj of the crew, armed-with muskets and Amsterdam clubs, hastened to shore to kill seals. As soon as the boats landed, the people on board could see the engagement, which was very hot so long as it lasted. Instead of seals they found an innumerable herd of lions and lionesses, basking on the beach ; and in a very short time ihey sent the large cutter back with several old ones, and above two hundred young ones. At seven in the evening the other boats came off with .another freight. Some of the old lions weighed from seven hundred to eigiit hundred pounds weight. The young ones are about the size of large bull dogs. During the whole time of the engage- ment there were from thirty to forty lions in the wjfter, close by the launch, roaring, jumping, and standing upright, but afraid to land. T'lese lions yield vast quantities of oil, but are very hard to kiH; some of the large lions having gone off with eight or ten balls in their heads. Some of thera measured from eight to nine feet in length, and not less round the shoulders. Their feet, or what the sailors call their phippers, measured from two feet and a half to three feet and a half in length. They have the appearance of lions as they bask upon the rocks ; but when lying on the beach they look more like flocks of sheep, with twenty or thirty large black rams among them. Some of the gentlemen who went up into the country saw bears, bit time was wanting to encounter them. This island is entirely covered with coarse long grass, through which the tracks of sea and land monsters may be traced for many miles, Tuikies NO. 44. *2l 59S LIEUIENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. bustards, and hawk?, were seen here, and several geese were killed. The whole day of January], 1 774-, was spent In killing lions, penguins, geese, and teais; every lULJe cove upon the Green Island was covered with them. The penguins ai'e accounted good eating, and thousands of ihem were killed for that purpose. On the 3d the ship's cooks boiled no less than three hundred wild-fowl for the ship's company, as every one was at liberty to eat what he pleased. While cruis- ing for Roach's Lnnd, tiicy saw great nuaibers ot alba- trosses, and small grey petterels, three Port Egmont hens, two antarctic birds, and some penguins, with a variety of other birds ; red beaks, white heads^ and yel- low feet. On the 14lh they saw land extending a great way to the northward of the peak, which w as mistaken in the morning for an ice island. The weather being hazy the next day, attended w ilh sleet and snow, they lost sight of it. On the 16lh it appeared amazing lofly, mountainous, craggy, and almost covered v\iii) snow. It now seemed to exiend farther to the eastward and southward than the eye could carry. The nearer they approached it, the more rugged and craggy it appeared, differing in nothing from that of Terra del Fuego on the western side, but in being covered wiih snow. At twelve the extremes of the land were from N. by E. ^ E. to N. at two bv E. i E. lat, 54" 25'. At three they steered through a strait, or passage, three or tour leagues in breadth, between several small isles and the main. In this passage mivny green patcltcs were seen upon the LIEUTENANT COOK*S SECOND VOYAGE. 399 land; and ihe greatest part of ihe sea-coast was clear Irom snow. While they contiraied sailing to the north- eastward, the land seemed in that direction to have no end ; insomuch that the mariners on board were over- joyed, imagining they had now found the Southern Con- tinent of which they were come in search. Having cleared the strait, they stood E. by N. the land not above thre9 leagues distant. At seven the next day they haul- ed up S. S. E. seeing a fine bay to cast anchor, and sounded in forty-five fathom water, blue mud and small stones. At nine they hoisted out the large cutter, and wer.t on shore with a stand of colours. As soon as they landed, thyy took possession of the country in the name of their royal master, and hoi'^ling an English jack, fired three vollies of fire-arms, and called the country Geor- gia. In thi-; bay (hey found an excellent harbour, had rot the head of it been froz*-n up. The sea-fowl which swam in the mouth of the harbour were quite lame; but two monsters which lay on the beach were frightfully fierce. They were in their general shape not much un- like the sea lions of Green Island, but much larger; they killed one ot them ihat mea-urc-d eighteen feet, and every way large in proporiion; his head resembled the head of a shark, his eyes were fixed in the upper part of his head, and his phippcrs were armed wiih claws. ^ They met with no interruption from the inhabitants, nor any tljing that could invite their stay. At half after one the boat relumed, with the monner on board, and at two they made 'Jail, ster^ring E. S. E. From this lime tdl the 7ih of February, they conti* nued coasting this great country witliout sev^ing one in- habit:;nt ; when, having lost sight of it for two or three days, ihe weather being piercingly cold, and the crew 2 l3 '100 LIEUTENANT COOK*S SECONb VOYACE. but poorly clad^ the captain gave orders lo stand to lh« east. Besides the horrid appearance tlic different views of the land exhibited, and the workings and bearings of the ship, nothing remarkable happened in the long cruise of which we have been speaking, except that on the third of February, three or four days before they left th© Jand, they j)assed through a portion of sea, tlie water of which was as white as milk ; this was about latitude 59^. They sounded,, supposing the ship in shallow water, but found no bottom. The water, when taken up in a bucket, a!ul compared with other water, retained none of its milky cobur, but showed in every respect like tli« ordinary sea-water. When the ship took her departure from this continent, February the 7th, her longitude was 341° E. and her latitude 53*^ S. nearly, and on that day she completed ber circuit round the globe, being then in the longitude of the Cape of Good Hope, from whence they set out. In this latitude she continued to sail without any mate- rial deviation till the 15th of February, when the cap- tain changed his course, steering a little more to the northward, in search of Bouvet's Land, and traversed from the 57 Ih to the 54.lh degree, till the 19th, when in latitude 54.^ they fell in with many signs of land, but next day all those signs disappeared. They then bore away E. by N. deviating, however, in many directions, as signs and circumstances arose, till, on the J3lh of March, in lat. 4.1° 57', long. 24*^ E. fhey began to cruise for two islands, said to have been seen nearly in that si- tuation ; but, not succeeding, they continued their course to the Cape of Good Hope. In their w^y, however, a quarrel arose between three of the principal officers and LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. 401 the ship's cooks, which was not reconciled without very serious consequences. Tho.^e three gentlemen, upon some occasion or other, entered the cook-room with na» ked knives, and with oaths unbecoming their character, swore they would take away the lives of the first who dared to afiront them. It seems they had formerly met with some rebuffs fjr too much frequentinor the cook's apartments, which had hitherto passed in joke ; but now a regular complaint wa^s laid before the captain, of their unwarrantable behaviour, and of the danger the men were in of their lives ; into which complaint the cap- tain was under the necessity of enquiring ; and, upon finding it just, of confming the offenders in irons. While they were in this situation, the articles of war being read, it was found that the offence was of such a ^ nature as hardly to be determined without reference lo a court martial, in order to which, the two who appeared most culpable were continued prisoners upon parole, and the third cleared. In a day or two after this business had engrossed the captain's attention, he called the ship's crew together, and, after recounting the particulars of the voyage, the hardships they had met witn, the fatigues they had un- dergone, and the cheerfulness which they had shown in tl'ie discharge of their duly, he gave them to understand how much more it would recommend them to the notice of the Lords Commissioners of the i^dmiralty if they would preserve a profound silence in the ports they had yet to pass, with regard to the course.^ they had steered, and the discoveries they had made, and after their re- turn home, tililhey had received permission so to do ; requiring at liie same time all tliose officers who had kept journals to deliver tliera into his custody, to be sealed up 402 LIEUTENANT COOk's SECOND VOYAGE. in a chest, nol to be opened till delivered to their lord- ships at ih'j proper office. Tliis request was cheerfully complied with by every commissioned officer ; but some who had kept memorials merely by way of exercise, and to qualify theipseives for future preferment, not thinking their performances perfect enough to be laid before per- sonages of such distinguislied rank, reserved iheir labours to gratify the curiosity of their friends. They had been near forty days .in their passage from Georgia to the Cape; of Good Hope without seeing land ; and before they arrived on the coast of Africa they fell in with two ships standing W. S. W. without being able to speak with either. This was on the 15th of March. On the 16(h they came in sight of Iflnd, but at a great distance. The next day five sail came in sight, and one catching a breeze, bore down to hail them. They hoisted out the great cutter, and sent an officer on board for news ; who, upcm his return, brouglit the me- lancholy account of the boat's crew of the Adventure being killed and eaten by the cannibals of New Zea- land. The ship horn which they received this intelli- gence was a Dutch Easl-indiaman from B^-ngal, who, upon being told that ihey had been in no European port since Noveniber 1772, olfe-ed them whatever they stood in netd of, either lor repairs or refreshi\^ents ; bul being in no immediate want, they very politely declined the obiigaiion. This day was Friday with the D,utcliman, but Sdturday with our navigaors, luving gained a day by runnuiii to the eastward. Tlie land they first made proved Cape Legullas. ^^ In tueir passage from Cape Legullas to Table Bay Uiey met with several heavy gales, in which their LIEUTENANT COOK*S SECOND VOYAGE. 403 masts, sails, and rigging, being much decayed, suffered considerably. On tlie 20th they came in sight of Table Land, on which day the captain was pleased to forgive the officers under arrest, upon their submission. Tlie next day they moored ship in Table Bay, in sight of many ships, of different nations, where ihey soon heard I'le (leplorablc story of the Adveiiture's boat's crew confirmed. Here they staid to repair the ship and recruit their stores; and in the mean time the captain wrote letters to the Admi- rait}', with an account of their proceedings, and safe ar- rival at the Cape, w liich were sent home, together with the journals of the officers, by the Ceres Ir.diaman, who arrived in England on the 3d of July. The captain, however, lost no time in pultinc: all things in a condition to complete the voyage; and the Dulton Indinman being in readiness to put to sea, they took their departure together on the i?7th ot April. On the I5th of May they arrived at St. Helena ; on llie2Ist they again proceeded in company, but parted at Ast en- sion the 28lh, the Resolution having touched there, to lake in turtle, while the Dutton continued her course. On the ] 1th of June they crossed the line; on liie 14th of July they anchored at Fayal, one of the Western Isles, and on the Slst of July, 111!), arrived at Spithead ; all in good health, having lost only one man by sickness, and three by accidents, in all this long and hazardous voyage. END OF COOKS SECOND VOYAGE. FIRST VOLUME COMPLETE. This Day is published, uniformly printed with the present Num- ber, ill one Volume, i2mo, illustrated by Thirty Portraits, Price 6s. 6d.in extra Boards j VOLUME THE FIRST, OF THE MODERN PLUTARCH; OR, - UNIVERSAL BIOGRAPHY: Including authentic Memoirs of distinguished Public Characters, of all Nations, Living and recently Deceased. UNDER THE IMMEDIATE DIRECTION OF SEVERAL EMINENT LITERARY GENTLEMEN. This Volume contains authentic Memoirs of the following popular Modern Characters : — EMPEROR OF RUSSIA DUKE OF GLOUCESTER MRS. OPtE LORD MELVILLE WILLIAM GODWIN ANDREW CHERRY, Comedian PRINCESS JOSEPH BUONA- PARTE REV. JOHN -EVANS LORD NELSON JOHN BIGLAND ABRAHAM NEWLAND M. TALLEYRAND LORD GARDNER MRS. BILLINGTON DR. JENNER RIGHT HON. WILLIAM PITT ROBERT BLOOMFIELD MR. JOHN KEMBLE MR. JAMES HEATH, Engraver EARL MOIRA LORD HOOD REV. ROWLAND HILL, &C. &C. &C. •|-4-f This Work, the demand for which daily encreases, Is re- commended to the attention of Gentlemen residing in the Country, and Persons going Abroad ; as it comprehends a faithful Epitome of the most important public Concerns of the Day, characterizing public Men and public Mea-ures with the strictest impartiality. Ten Numbers are already published, either of vfhich may be had separate, price is ^ach. PRINTED BY JAMES CUNDEE^ LONDON. w University of Connecticut Libraries 39153029243716 '^■^--ru'/iri-''