university of Connecticut libraries Library , that ta¥st my Wj& ) understand . ' ' hbl, stx D 919.H75 Golden memories of Old World lands 3 T1S3 DD7blEEM 7 A3 — \ -3 Maria Ballard Holyoke. GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS, OR WHAT I SAW IN EUROPE, EGYPT, PALESTINE, AND GREECE. By MARIA BALLARD JgOLYOKE, Author of a volwneof Poems. WITH HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS. CHICAGO: CHARLES H. KERR & COMPANY, 1893. H Copyright, 1893, by Maria Ballard Holyoke Dedication* To those who have already made the trans- Atlantic tour, who have an undying interest in Old- World lands ; to whom a perusal of these pages may be as the snatch of a beloved song, or the wind- wafted aroma of a rose- garden to conjure up their own treasured memories, and revive their enjoyment of their own days of golden privilege : To those others who hope to make the European or Orien- tal tour, and will need a friend and guide : And to the great majority who will abide in "the Kingdom called home" and see the world only through others' eyes, this volume is affectionately inscribed. "I hope as no unwelcome guest At your warm firesides when the lamps are lighted To have my place reserved among the rest, Nor stand as one unsought and uninvited. — " Haply with you to sail the mystic sea, Companion of your thoughtful hours to be. PREFACE. "I traveled among: unknown men In lands bej^ond the sea." This is the story of nearly a year of travel in Europe and the Levant. The author's first pilgrimage abroad was to Europe and Great Britain: her second (less than two years later) was to Egypt, Palestine and Greece, and includ- ed a re-visit of portions of Europe and some additional foreign countries not included in her first long tour. Ten a\ ceks were devoted to London, six weeks she spent in Par- is. She journeyed to the grandest capitals, the chief art cen- ters, the most exquisite scenery, the most famous castles, palaces, and cathedrals of Europe ; she visited the homes or shrines of kings and conquerors ; of many illustrious dead whom fame has crowned in the several realms of literature and art, of sainthood, and of song. She had exceptionally favorable opportunities for observing the social schemes that make life better worth living to the poor in great cities. To those she added a cruise on the Mediterranean to the lands of Moses, of Plato and of Christ; inspecting the won- drous antiquities of Lower Egypt, its stupendous pyramids, its inscrutable Sphinx, its catacombs and mummied kings, its Suez Canal, Land of Goshen, cosmopolitan Alexandria, and vast and piquant Cairo. Thence among the hallowed associations of Jerusalem and the Jordan, she followed in the possible footprints of patriarchs and prophets, and of Jesus himself. Thence in the teeth of a Levanter that recalled Paul's shipwreck, she sailed to the shores of once glorious Greece, exploring classic Athens and ancient Eleu- sis, where mossed-o'er ruin and shining bay, and every templed height, and the peerless Parthenon are eloquent reminders of the Golden Age that antedated the Christian Era, and are the marvel and admiration of history. Chapter I treats of travel in general, offering some hints which it is hoped will prove useful to prospective tourists. He who prefers the narrative at once will turn to its begin- ning in Chapter II. CONTENTS. I. The Philosophy of Travel 9 II. All Aboard for Europe 26 III. First Week in London 35 IV. Palatial London 54 V. Excursions in London and Suburbs 67 VI. La Belle France 81 VII. Pen-Pictures of Paris 96 VIII. Etchings of Paris 112 IX. Environs of Paris 126 X. Southern France and the Riviera. . 136 XI. Immortal Rome 149 XII. Rome Past and Present 162 XIII. Naples and her Environs 179 XIV. Days of Gold in Northern Italy. ... 190 XV. Switzerland 204 XVI. Rhenish Germany 222 XVII. Bavaria and Austria 235 XVIII. In Vienna 248 XIX. In Saxony and Prussia 258 XX. Cologne and Belgium 271 XXI. Social Studies in London 287 XXII. A Churchman and a Nonconformist 301 XXIII. "All Sorts and Conditions of men" 310 XXIV. Angelic Ministries 325 5 CONTENTS. HAPTER PAGg XXV. Parliament and Premier 337 XXVI. Sepulchres and Shrines 349 XXVII. Preachers I Heard in London 362 XXVIII. The Story of One Day 373 XXIX. A Tale of Three Cities 384 XXX. In Lordly Halls and Nature's Shrines 397 XXXI. Scotia and the Cannie Scotch. .... 413 XXXII. In Burns' Home, and the Brontes' 425 XXXIII. A Cruise on the Mediterranean. .. 437 XXXIV. Alexandria, Egypt 450 XXXV. Palestine 457 XXXVI. A Palanquin Ride to Jericho, the Dead Sea and the Jordan. ... .. 471 XXXVII. Cairo and the Pyramids 490 XXXVIII. Greece 500 XXXIX. In the Italian Cities, Paris, and the Netherlands 519 XL. Last Weeks in England, and an Irish Tour 532 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Author* s Portrait Frontispiece FACING PAGE Map of Ocean Track 9 The Egyptian Sphinx 24 Map of British Isles 40 Canterbury Cathedral 64 Fontainebleau Palace, France 128 Map of Central and Southern Europe 144 The Colosseum at Rome 160 Scene at Naples 184 The Castle of Chillon, Switzerland 208 Street Scene, Antwerp 280 Egyptian Arabs Dining 448 Map of Jerusalem and the Levant 456 A Group from our Palestine party, with Sheik, Dragomen, &c 488 The Alabaster Mosque and Citadel, Cairo 496 The Acropolis, Athens 504 Golden Memories of Old World Lands. CHAPTER I. THE PHILOSOPHY OF TRAVEL. Before beginning these chronicles, we will speak of travel in general, and one traveler in par- ticular. It has been said that "Coming events cast their shadows before," — and "The Child is father of the Man." Without doubt, the predominant tastes of the youth prefigure the bent of the matured mind, in a free development. The day-dream of this chronicler in early girlhood was to write books and see old Rome. The poetic sense was early stirred within her — as Bethesda's healing pool by an angel, — by the voices she heard in life's fair morning: Mrs. Hemans, affluent in high sentiment, pathetic and pure womanly; Tom Moore, with melodious voice wafting oriental spicery and balm, and love's honey-dew, — and Wordsworth, high priest at two altars, Nature and Humanity ; who married simple diction to royal thought. These and others led her into the Enchanted Land where flows the crystal fount of Helicon, where flowery mead and leafy grove are haunted by the sisters Nine, where 9 10 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS the j'oung soul, a wind-swept lute, vibrates with emotions it "can ne'er express, yet cannot all conceal;" and hearing the reverberating roar of the great uncomprehended ocean of life and eternal things, feels like a young bird the first fluttering of its wings toward the "Aliquid immensum, infinitumque." In this dream-haven, gazing wistfully toward the sublime heights of Parnassus, where poets communed with gods, she longed to strike the lyre, or grave the parchment with poet-song or noble prose. Mingled with such aspirations, were visions of sunny Italy, a land familiar to her girlish thought, invested with the charm of its antiquity and classic literature, — for had she not translated Roman history from the Latin, and drank from the iEneid's wells undefiled at the susceptible age, when Once-learned is never forgotten ? And so, the myth of the baby boys suckled by a wolf, and the Founding of Rome, and the growth of that seven-hilled city of the yellow Tiber to be proud mistress of the world, and the idyl of Dido and Eneas and the story of the Sabine women, and the tragedies of the Caesars, Brutus and Mark Anthony, — the Roman Forum and the sheer precipice of the Tarpeian rock, sightly Janiculus and the Pincian Hill, — and much more of "id omne genus" became infil- trated into her earliest consciousness. Years came and went. The noon of life had passed. She had borne with joy a part in the world's work. At last the child-longing was to be, — in some degree — fulfilled. For already she had written and published THE PHILOSOPHY OF TRAVEL 11 a Book; now she was to visit the beloved Italy of her earliest dreams! The coveted fruit was within reach, but viewed with chastened eyes. What Goethe calls the Apprenticeship of his hero had come to her, as it comes to all, in the workshop of Experience, the University of the world. The romance of virginal dreams was over. The play was ended, the lights of the masqueraders were out, the palace deserted, the castle had vanished in thin air. But she had heard the "still sad music of humanity;" had visioned life in the light of God; had come to the full persuasion that the highest greatness is not in intellectual achievement, (though this has its worthy uses), but of the heart. Knowl- edge shall vanish away; but "the Greatest thing in the world is Love." It is within the attainment of the lowest and poorest in the social scale, and so, within the reach of all — for which, God be praised! Therefore with less earthly ambition than once, but with clearer sight, and broader horizon, viewing this new opportunity as a talent to be used for the Master, and her fellow men, and recognizing its rich value, she gratefully and gladly accepted it, and be- came a Tourist to foreign lands. TRAVEL OFFERS RICH ADVANTAGES. It is change to the routine toiler, which is equiva- lent to Rest; it is air, exercise, and resulting Health to the pale student, or housewife, or society-lady; Nature's healing to the Sorrowful; and new ideas to the Litterateur. Extensive old-world Travel, to those 12 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD tVORLD L4NDS who know how to use it, is indeed a great, an effect* ive, and a delightful Educator. It may be made a University-extension course. Preceded and followed, as it should be, by the traveler's careful study of the countries embraced in the tour, it becomes a course in Geography, History, Architecture and the Fine Arts ; in Race-conditions, currencies, government, religion and every ramification of that all-embracing depart- ment, Sociology — the foremost topic of our time. Travel, rightly used, is a perpetual Pleasure-giver. Unnumbered scenes from nature and art delight the cultured taste, please the critical sense, surprise and captivate the fancy, or work in the soul "that kindly mood of melancholy which wings it for the skies." These photographed by well trained Memory line the mind's picture galleries with "things of Beauty which are joys forever." What masterpieces from the old Masters pass in review before the continental tourist! What wonderful conceptions of beauty! What correctness of outline, judgment in grouping, skill in texture! What richness of color! What dextrous management of light and shade, what marvel- lous power to catch a moment's grace and glory, and give it artistic immortality! What speaking canvas! what breathing marble! If impressed by the works of Man, how much more by the lavish magnificence and faultless perfection of the creations of the Supreme Artist, whose great originals it is alike the ambition and the despair of the greatest geniuses to copy ! With the Secret of perfect beauty He fashioned the ethereal people of THE PHILOSOPHY OF TRAVEL 13 the flower world, painted countless roseate purpling dawns, and gorgeous sunsets, tinted the ocean shell and blue grotto, hung the waterfall like a rainbow ribbon on the mountain side, and enthroned sublimity on the dazzling unapproachable crag. We feel the charm of His most exquisite handiwork in Killarney's lakes and mountains; a glory-world seems to ensphere us in the matchless Corniche drive; and we are stirred more than by trumpet and an army with banners, as we hear the rushing of the torrent, and gaze on the romantic glen and infolding mountains of the Alpine pass! Sweet is it to the christian to recall, My Father made them all ! "These are the varied God The rolling year is full of Thee." Travel should make the heart more reverent to the Creator; more humble as we realize what others have accomplished and our own limited at- tainments, more charitable toward those who differ from us, as we are led to realize the difference of their early training and environment. Not the least of the pleasures of travel are the friendships sometimes formed with chance fellow passengers — though, rightly understood there is no chance, but always divine providence. These unex- pected friends make the heart richer, the way brighter, and sometimes turn the currents of destiny. Still richer may be the blessings from even the un- toward circumstances we must expect to meet, which are also a part of the All-wise Disposer's plan; which are intended to work our development in some want- ing virtue, or that we may minister to another's good. 14 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS HOW TO PROFIT BY TRAVEL. In this partial inventory of the advantages of Travel, none will make the mistake of concluding they are reaped by simply crossing the seas, roaming in marble halls, rushing through picture galleries, or glancing at cathedral domes. A fountain may yield an abundant supply of excel- lent water. What it does for us depends on our con- dition when we drink, the size of the pitcher we fill thereat, our strength to carry it, our care that none be spilt, and what we do with it afterwards. It may revive a dying one. Happily, the more we give away, the more we keep; for use renders the posses- sions of memory more enduring and available. Eyes and ears must be kept open to learn. The habit of observation must be trained, or seeing, we shall see not, or not know what we have seen. Exact facts rather than a vague impression of them we must seek. We must not make the mistake which some have done, of too hasty generalization from isolated instances; nor state as verities what we only guess; and thus mislead those who wish to know the truth. We will find much to remember, and Memory is trained and strengthened by Exercise; but if we trust to this excellent servant altogether, to the exclusion of taking notes, we shall overburden it, and find, that when we are weary, the memory is like the sandy shore of the sea; the wave of To-day obliterates the tracery of Yesterday. Therefore, the ready pencil and notebook must be everywhere instantly at hand; and we must be alert to use the present instant, the THE PHILOSOPHY OF TRAVEL 15 Now; as the richest opportunities come but once — a moment here, then gone forever. "There is a tide in the affairs of man Which taken at its flood leads on to fortune; Neglected all is lost." Opportunities come to all; the successful ones make the most of them; the unfortunate are they who presume on their continuance, or not under- standing their value, are busied with some trifle and lose their chance. The proper order of visiting different countries, is, if circumstances permit, — see your ozvn first. This privilege the Author had enjoyed in some years of travel which embraced the Eastern seaboard, Niagara, Montreal, the New West, the Rocky Mountain terri - tories, and the Pacific strand. One advantage of acquaintance with our own great and wonderful country is — it furnishes a standard of comparison, and helps the traveler to be a more intelligent represen- tative American to peoples abroad. As one should learn his mother-tongue before dabbling in many lan- guages, so he should have a just estimate of his country's characteristics, scenic attractions, range and productions, climate, its chief institutions, work and wages, etc., all of which are deeply interesting to Europeans; some of whom confound Liberty with License and misapprehend the genius of our govern- ment, and need to be informed. POINTS FOR TOURISTS. In the Rockies and Sierras the Americans have a 16 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS magnificent wonderland all their own. The single state of Colorado has eleven mountain peaks over 14000 feet above sea level, all vastly higher than some of the most celebrated mountains of the old world, — than Mt. Sinai from which the Ten Com- mandments were given, which is but 9, 280 feet, — than Mt. Olympus, Greece, where Jupiter was fabled to hold his court of deities, which is 9,754 — than snowy Lebanon of Bible lands which is 10,600 feet. Colorado has sixty snow clad peaks towering two and a half miles toward the sun. California's Mount Whitney, 14,887 feet, is higher than the Alpine Matterhorn. All the eleven Ameri- can peaks first mentioned, with Mt. Whitney also, well approximate towards the majestic altitude of those world-famous snow kings, Mount Rosa and Mount Blanc. As for beauty and grandeur of scenery, Manitou and the unique "garden of the Gods," — the Royal Gorge of the Arkansas rushing through mountain cliffs 2000 feet high— and the glorious Yosemite valley in its superb setting of rock and mountain and waterfall, are as worthy an American's pilgrimage as are lovely Interlachen, enchanting Chamouni, or a Sunrise on the Rhigi; and these, one who has once well seen them, must ever store as among memory's choicest treasures. It cannot but be deeply impressive to any- one to roam, as the Author had been privileged to do — without rush — through our Western Switzerland, and frontier; noting each picturesque sight of sod houses, dugouts, adobes; bronchos, burros, prairie THE PHILOSOPHY OF TRAVEL 17 dogs, buffaloes; Mormondom: the cactus-lands where these curious many-spined giants grow tall as tele- graph poles! the mushroom villages haunted by spiritless New Mexican, stealthy Papago, or sagacious Pueblo, descendant of the ancient Aztec; — Apache fastnesses, and stage-robbed wildernesses; Riverside's orange groves, where the air was laden with sweet- ness, and the branches heavy with golden fruit, rivaling the Eden garden! Anon in the city of the Angels; or rustling down mountain curves after galloping steeds and venturing on Pluto's dominions in steaming Geyserland, — or testing the true inward- ness of a gold mine 1400 feet underground, — or round- ing magnificent Cape Horn in the Sierras! or reveling in the marvellous glory of the Yosemite Valley! These are some of America's features to be set against old world attractions. It is no baseless boast that the United States has the largest lakes and longest rivers in the world; for while Europe's longest river, the Volga, is 1990 miles in length, and the Egyptian Nile 4000, — the Missouri to the Gulf of Mexico is 4,200. The United States has also the most miles of both railroad and telegraph in operation. It has, except the Eiffel tower of France, the tallest monuments in the world, the Washington monument being 555 feet in height. Chicago enjoys the doubtful distinction of having the tallest "sky scrapers" in the world, buildings eighteen and twenty stories high. Chicago is the greatest stock market, lumber market, and grain market in the world, and with its 26 railroads is the greatest 18 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVOR.LD LANDS railroad center on earth. It has doubled its population every ten years for the last 40 years, and has now more than 1,250,000 estimated inhabitants. Since the settlement of the United States in 1607 at Jamestown — a period of only 285 years, two cities have grown up within it larger than any in Europe, save London, Paris, Berlin and Vienna which have ages of growth behind them. These are New York 1,500,000, and Chicago. The latter had but 200 inhabitants in 1833! Philadelphia approaches the Russian Capital, St. Petersburg, which has 900,000. In enterprise and invention, the sturdy young giant of the U. S. is "facile princeps" having in the brief period of its national existence, little more than a century, given to Industry the Cotton Gin, the Light- ning-rod, the Sewing Machine, the Steamboat, the Telegraph and Telephone. Its area of square miles is 3,607,604 while all Europe has 3,822,320 and its population 65,000,000, is 17 to the square mile, while Europe has 79, and Great Britain 289 to the square mile. With the well-known fertility of the United States, and the amount of public lands yet unoccupied, we see its vast capacities for further growth and ex- pansion. The United States is the granary of the nations; the poor man's Paradise, for here, if he lets liquor alone, he need not remain poor, and there are no caste-distinctions which forbid him to rise. It is the Home of the Free, the Hope of the world. The American with just enthusiasm can exclaim: THE PHILOSOPHY OF TRAVEL 19 Long as thine Art shall love true love, Long as thy Science Truth shall know, Long as thine Eagle harms no dove, Long as thy Law by law shall grow f Long as thy God is God above, Thy brother, every man below, — So long, dear Land of all my love, Thy name shall shine, thy fame shall glow! — (Lanier.) The latitude of the United States, 24 ° 20/ to 40° North, ranges lower than the British Isles, and than most of Europe; Chicago is about the latitude of Rome, Mobile the same as Jerusalem, New Orleans (31 °) the same as Cairo, Egypt. The gulf stream flowing from the Caribbean Sea, along the western shores of Ireland and Scotland greatly softens the severity of their climate, and keeps the icebergs at a respectable distance from those coasts; while the breezes off from the Mediterranean, and the great African desert beyond, serve a beneficent purpose for the south of Europe, making it warmer. Thus much respecting native land, for the benefit of those who purpose traveling abroad, and for the comfort and consolation of those who cannot go. When we are duly informed not only of the topog- raphy but History of these Pilgrim shores, all may begin profitably the study of some foreign country, like England, France, or Germany. A famous scien- tist, Humboldt, was visited by a traveler just returned from Jerusalem. Humboldt referred so intelligently to the topography of the Holy City, that the traveler said "You have been there, have you not?" "No, SO GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS was the answer, "but twenty years ago Iexpected to go and prepared myself;." Should one travel on short notice the advantage of having acquired previous in- formation is obvious; and is confirmed by our experi- ence. England as Motherland may well come first, her traditions belong to us. — Though years go by before your feet press her bonnie shores, yet when you tread her velvet turf, and scent her fragrant hedgerows, when you look up at ivied castle and vast cathedral, threading her Westminster Abbey and Chapter House, or standing with bowed head and hushed presence by the tombs of her mighty dead — everywhere, from ancient Canterbury and the Corn= wall mines to the home of Rob Roy and the lovely Scottish lochs in the North, you will see it suffused in the glow of its all-enveloping history, and your delight will be a hundred fold enhanced. The United Kingdom is all Historic Land; everywhere are crumb- ling but eloquent memorials of its ancestors; the shrines of those we admire, or most venerate. WHAT TO SEE AND HOW TO SEE IT. This depends on how much time you can devote, and how much money you are willing or can afford to spend. If you have time and means for an exten- sive tour, say three to six months, but are not acquainted with the French or German tongues, you will be greatly helped by joining a Gaze, a Jenkins, or a Cook party, with a full itinerary prepared by an expert, with competent conductor who buys all steam- boat, railroad and hotel tickets, pays the proper gra- THE PHILOSOPHY OF TRAVEL 21 tuities, secures landaus when necessary, and conveys you with despatch to the places most important to be seen. This is an immense relief where a strange language is an almost insurmountable barrier to com- mercial intercourse, and your interests if unconducted are almost at the mercy of those whose customs you do not know. These conducted parties are limited to 25, the maximum number desirable. Among them you will probably find some pleasant and congenial persons. Besides, one who is friendly will usually make friends. A lady accompanied by her relative or friend will be less likely to suffer from a sense of isolation, for "numbers are not company," — than one going alone among strangers. Moreover a larger, more desirable room is usually assigned to two, than to one alone, though all pay the same. When the itinerary is fulfilled, instead of immedi- ately taking ship for America, one may with great satisfaction, combine the plans of associated and separate action by an independent tour in Great Britain. This I found very delightful, and profitable. Another pleasant way is for four or eight persons of like tastes, or friends, to make up an Independent party, one of their number being able to speak French or German, and attending to the transactions with foreigners. Eight fill two carriages; combine nicely in couples; and allow an elasticity of move- ment not practicable in a larger party. This is in- deed an ideal way. Where this is not practicable, the "conducted party" 22 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS is the most satisfactory way of making an extended continental tour, of seeing a great deal in a moderate time, and comfortable manner. The cost per day is about $7, but less time is lost, than when one must start out alone and unassisted. I went to Europe with a Jenkins party of about 30, and to the Orient and Levant with a Gaze party of 27, and am sure that both were the best arrangements then practica- ble. If you have but a short vacation at command, of a month or so, allow for the passage from New York to Liverpool and back about eighteen days; or take an ocean racer allowing about fourteen; for which you must pay more but will gain time for sightseeing. The remaining time might well be devoted to Great Britain only, or to London and Paris, for which no conductor would be necessary. For sightseeing in the vast Parisian Capital you can avail yourself of Gaze's popular "Four-in-Hand", which also conveys visitors to Versailles, Sevres, and St. Cloud. For your stay at hotels, buy a number of hotel coupons, from Gaze's agent, either at New York or upon land- ing in England, with a list of hotels where they are available. I did so, as also my railroad tickets, with comfort and advantage. It is always an object in entering a strange town to have your hotel for a night's lodging and one comfortable meal secured and you are not obliged to remain longer unless you choose, by the conditions of your coupon. Money may frequently be saved by taking your other meals at a restaurant. These coupons are at the rate of $2.40 per day in Great Britain, and $2.10 upon the THE PHILOSOPHY OF TRAVEL 23 Continent. For first class ocean passage and return, except by the ocean racers, allow $110. I sailed suc- cessively on the Inman, Red Star, and White Star lines. Each was well managed and had a superb cuisine. There are other lines with special merits. In Great Britain, travel in third class cars; on the continent in second class cars; on Atlantic ocean steamer take first cabin passage by preference. It is said "only nobles, Americans and fools ride first class" on the trains in England. In my first European tour, I went first class everywhere; but subsequently, grown wiser by experience, I chose third class cars in Eng- land, finding as pleasant company with the added advantage of seeing more Europeans, and deriving more information at considerably less expense. First then, make out your itinerary carefully of the places you wish to see, in the time you have to spend. By submitting this to any of the tourist agencies you can learn the necessary fares. Add to this the ocean fares and the number of days you will spend in Great Britain at hotels at $2.40 per day. Add a margin for carriage rides, admission fees, gratuities, inciden- tals. Then procure your letter of credit to a London banker, (mine was to Brown and Shipley), and some notes of the Bank of England, or you can buy one and two pound cheques on the Cheque Bank, New York. I tried both methods and they worked equally well. Armed then with your passport from the Secretary of State, viseed by the Consuls from Greece and Turkey if you are to visit those lands, a steamer 24 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS ticket, Letter of Credit or Cheque Book, a few gold sovereigns — with some of Gaze's travel tickets and hotel coupons — a telescoping Satchel, shawlstrap parcel, and umbrella — and a good conscience, go abroad! and joy go with you! What, without trunk? Yes for a short journey; or, if you go independently, for a long one. Much luggage is a continual burden, a delusion, a snare. Experienced travelers take the least. But if you must take more, take a small steamer trunk, that will go under your berth; into which put the warm wraps you will require on deck. WHAT SHALL WE WEAR ? Start with everything new; a becoming traveling dress of good material, a handsome black silk or wool dress for dinners, the ship concert, and dress occa- sions. One or two changes of warm under clothing. Washing is done on short notice and you can resupply. Plenty of handkerchiefs and neck wear; a jacket, a becoming traveling cloak or ulster; a close fitting bonnet or hat; a warm shawl; a thick veil or becom- ing hood, and an extra fresh veil. The weather is sure to be windy and cool on ship board, and you will need warm head-wear, and wraps for the prom- enade deck on which you will pass most of your time at sea. A thread and needle case with accessories for making repairs; the usual toilet articles, and a cake of soap; note, and guide-books. These can be packed in a 20 inch telescoping satchel and a shawl strap, and in three capacious THE PHILOSOPHY OF TRAVEL 25 pockets such as men sensibly wear, that their arms may be unencumbered. Then with an umbrella, you are ready '. With the distinct purpose to attain the full advan- tages of travel, we shall still miserably fail, unless we are willing on occasion to waive them all, together with our personal preferences, that we may love our neighbor as ourselves, and fulfill the Golden Rule; an instrument without which no equipment tor a journey is complete. CHAPTER II. ALL ABOARD FOR EUROPE! "What heed I of the dusty land And noisy town? I see the mighty deep expand From its white lines of gleaming sand To where the blue of heaven on bluer waves shuts down." Whittier. "The sea, the sea! the open sea! The blue, the fresh, the ever free; Without a mark, without a bound, It runneth the earth's wide region round, Tt plays with the clouds, it mocks the skies. Or — like a cradled creature lies! I'm on the sea! I'm on the sea, With the blue above, and the blue below, And silence reigns where'er I go." Barry Cornwall. Wednesday, April 23, 189 — at 2:30 P. M. found me at Pier 43, New York City, aboard the Inman steamship City of Berlin ready for a transatlantic tour. My parting with home and friends had been a week earlier, and the first thousand miles of my pilgrim^ age were already accomplished. Others were now to say good-bye to their acquaintances who had come down in large numbers to see them off. There was much stir and gayety. There was a musical party of 2§ ALL ABOARD FOR EUROPE! 27 39 Gondoliers, nearly all young and lively, returning to England from an American tour. There were also 22 ladies and gentlemen who were to be my'compagn- ons de voyage,' beside our Swiss conductor. Seven or eight others would join us farther on. There were other pleasant people aboard, making 139 saloon passengers beside steerage, officers and crew. At last all was ready for the start. The last visitors hurried down the gangway, the planks were removed, and amid a great waving of handkerchiefs we steamed down the Hudson. Past the Battery, conspicuous in the bay was Bedloe's island with Bartholdi's colossal statue of Liberty Enlightening the World The top of the pedestal is 89 feet above low water; the statue 151 feet high, and the torch at an elevation of 306 feet. We met several incoming steamers, of the White Star and Anchor lines, the former distinguished by its cream-colored funnel with black top, and a red swallowtail flag with a White Star — -the latter by a black funnel with an anchor on its white flag. We were soon called to dinner where the table was gay with great masses of superb hot-house flowers. A separate table was reserved for our party and I was allotted a seat by the descendants of some Knicker- bockers. When the numerous elaborate courses had been served, and we had begun to know our neigh- bors, New York was far behind, and the gathering twilight had dropped its dusky curtains over the world. Donning our wraps, with jackets buttoned under our cloaks, we all, save the few earliest affected by "mal de mer," took steamer chairs on the prome- 28 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS nade deck. It is 180 feet in length. Here we spent most of our time en route. Next day we were far "out on the Ocean sailing." The sea continued calm, the air fresh and cool, the ship making sixteen miles per hour. I had no fear of seasickness, having made several short trips before on the Atlantic, and the Pacific, without Neptune's exacting his customary toll. This time he let me off easily, and 1 did not once fail to fill my place at the table at the appointed hour of meals. White seagulls followed us in flocks, and stormy petrels were on the wing. In the evening there were beautiful phosphorescent sparkles in the foamy path the City of Berlin ploughed through the water, which glittered like stars in the sea. The second day was warm and de- bilitating; the third we experienced a strong sea swell and the ship rocked like a cradle, Rails were set up at the dining table to keep the dishes in place. In every mood the sea is fascinating. We were now 1,000 miles from native land, and 2090 from Liver- pool. At noon each day the run of the previous twenty-four hours is placed in the gangway leading to the saloon entrance. The world of waters had now become our home, and the time was spent in looking seaward, in chatting, reading, promenading, or sip- ping bouillon. On Sabbath the Episcopal service was conducted by the Captain, and the words of Holy Writ seemed homelike, sweet, and relishful. The afternoon proved chillingly cold. Shivering we sought the ladies' parlor, but warmth was not there, and we were put to the test of endurance. ALL ABOARD FOR EUROPE! 29 The morning of the fifth day, Monday, the freez- ing, petrifying atmosphere is explained. Doubtless the ship's management suspected the cause before, from the colder temperature of the sea, for they had steered seventy miles out of the direct course to avoid it; but in vain. A sensation awaits us. Icebergs are in sight ! Soon others here, and others there loom up their glistening heads. We are in a field of thirty mountains of ice, those mighty, moving resist- less monsters of the Deep. It is a most impressive sight which we might cross the ocean for thirty years and never view again. In- deed a gentleman here tells us he has crossed fifty times and never seen the like before. A storm has driven these sea-lions from their accustomed route. They are variously shaped. Some are low, long banks, a mile in length, ice-fields; some resemble castles with pinnacles and towers. Some are indented with deep fissures and gulfs, all tinted most beautifully, exquisitely blue. One is 150 feet high, another 200. Some quite near us. There are Icebergs to right of us, Icebergs to left, Icebergs in front, Icebergs at the rear! Skillful piloting it requires to avoid collision with these unfeeling giants which are much larger under water than above. It is the greatest mercy we did not enter the Ice field in the night, when, before their presence was detected, we had felt their craunching jaws, and sunk "With bubbling groan Unknelled, uncoffined, and unknown." The first was in sight at seven o'clock, and by 2 P. 30 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS M. we left our beautiful but merciless neighbors be* hind. But we had left one peril to enter another — a wild- ly heaving sea. These were not ordinary billows we encountered, but the sea running in hills and valleys, as agitated from its depths. We were experiencing the tail-end of the tempest that had preceded us. To and fro, from side to side, back and forth, the ship rolled as if rocked by a very naughty boy indifferent to the cradled infant's fate, and threatening to drop us in. Dishes went rattling on the floor, china and glass were smashed, ladies were thrown down and slightly bruised. One was suddenly tossed from her seat in the ladies' parlor, on to the carpet, and sent across the room like a woolen ball, then, as the ship lurched to the other side, was rolled back again, for- tunately unhurt. It was irresistibly comical to see a large and sedate person thus spinning wildly about. Neptune has no regard for dignities, nor is he a respecter of persons. The general unsteadiness caused shouts of laughter. Yet the screw was often quite out of the water and the test of her strength must have been tremendous; an accident in such a sea would have probably sent us all to a watery grave. To the inquiry, was there any danger of the ship capsizing? we were assured by seamen who always strive to allay the fears of pas- sengers, that this was only a little rough, and we were having a good passage. In the midst of this tempestuous condition, at night- fall we saw a sailing vessel — with masts careening ALL ABOARD FOR EUROPE/ 31 toward the horizon, and sails spread, tacking against a contrary wind as if making directly for us. Going into the black night, into the fierce wild sea, toward the crushing, craunching ice we had passed, going to the dark unknown and unknowable, what would her fate be? Such a picture stirs even a hard heart to pity, and sinks deep into the memory. Yet doubtless we presented a somewhat similar appearance. It is a rough, perilous and ill-paid life, our sailors live, that landsmen may enjoy the fruits of maritime com- merce, that my lady may have her jewels, and silks, that letters and loved ones may be brought to our homes. Surely we should often remember in tender feeling petitions them that go down to the Deep, that do business on the great waters, that climb the rat- tling frozen ropes, and furl the icy shrouds in Win- ter's deadly cold. Poor fellows! when paid off their small stipend, what land sharks await them in port, to make them drunken, and then strip them of their hard-earned funds! Satanic work! Godspeed the day when there shall be no saloon, or "public," shel- tered and sustained by law, into which these honest Jacktars shall be decoyed. The life on shipboard has small variety. It is always interesting to sight a ship. On this voyage we have seen but few. Once we saw porpoises alongside, leaping up in the waves as if running a race with our vessel. One diversion is to learn the Bell signals which are for the convenience of the sailor on duty. The first watch is from 8 p. m. till midnight when 8 bells are struck; Midwatch, midnight till 4 a. m. when 33 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS again 8 bells sound; Morning watch, 4 till 8 a. m., 8 bells; Forenoon watch, from 8 to 12, 8 bells; After- noon watch, 12 to 4, 8 bells; Dogwatches of two hours each, 4 to 6 p. m and 6 to 8 p. m. The even numbers indicate the whole hours, thus: 2 bells after midday is 1 o'clock; 4 bells is 2 o'clock; 6 bells three o'clock, 8 bells four o'clock. The uneven numbers are for the half hours, thus one bell after midday is half past twelve; three bells half past one; et sequi- tur. The city of Berlin is 510 feet long by 44 broad, a gross tonnage of 5490 tons, and has 850 horse power. She has three masts. The funnels of the Inman line are painted black, with a white band, and black top. She was built in 1874-5, an d when new was called next to the Great Eastern, the largest ship in the world. She has been recently furnished with new engines and improved. She is an eight day boat reckoning from Queenstown to Sandy Hook. "A stately ship, With all her bravery on, and tackle trim, Sails filled and streamers waving." The first steamer crossed the Atlantic in 18 19, Trans-Atlantic steam Navigation was established in 1838. The passage one way then occupied 18 days, the Great Western accomplishing it in 15. The Inman is next to the Cunard the oldest Trans-Atlantic line, being established in 1850. The various steamships plying between Europe and New York now average 70,000 passengers a month. Our cuisine on this trip is managed by the chief cook ALL ABOARD FOR EUROPE! 33 of the City of Paris, and is remarkably fine. I am in- dulging in some new dishes of sea food. For drink, sour lemonade meets a felt want, (i.e. lemonade with- out sugar) and I need no other "aid," taking it as a sub- stitute for tea and coffee. I attribute to this a part of my immunity from nausea. As we are approaching Queenstown where letters can be mailed, we spend considerable time in writing friends. On the seventh day of passage the sea quieted down, and the remainder of the way was altogether delightful. "How calm, how beautiful comes on The stilly hour when storms are gone! When warring winds have died away And clouds beneath the glancing ray, Melt off and leave the land and sea Sleeping in bright tranquillity." With joy we sighted Fastnet light-house off the S. W. coast of Ireland whose revolving light is seen 18 miles in clear weather. Here occurred the disastrous accident to the City of Paris, but for which we should now be crossing on that magnificent steamer, on which our passage was engaged. Had a similar acci- dent occurred to the Berlin, our captain says she would have sunk in a few moments. Eight days and eight hours from Sandy Hook, we anchor near the entrance to the Cove of Cork, Queenstown, Here, at 4 A. M., we leave our Gon- doliers who gave a pleasing concert Thursday night. The sea is smooth as molten glass. A fine nautical picture is made in the hush and half-light of the ear- liest dawn by a small ship near us. It lies with can- 34 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS vas spread, looking black as a pirate flag, motionless, "As idle as a painted ship upon a painted ocean." Beautiful before us rise the green hills of Erin. We are soon sailing up St. George's Channel, sighting the romantic Welsh coast. Here are lighthouses, sea walls, winding paths up craggy steeps. At ten p. m. of Friday, May 2, we land at Liverpool on the Mer- sey River, and walk with hand luggage to the Custom House. The way seems long, burdens grow heavy, and we are forcibly taught the lesson to encumber ourselves with as little as possible hereafter. The inspection is scarcely more than a formality. Near midnight we get aboard railway sleepers for London, where from Euston station cabs, bear us at 9 a. m. to the quiet Inns-of-Court Hotel on High Holborn St. Right glad are we to be on terra firma; but it is some time before "sea legs" are laid aside. "Mother," writes my adopted son, "How did you ever dare cross the Deep, knowing there was but a plank between you and Death? Don't read this till you get back." CHAPTER III. FIRST WEEK IN LONDON. "Britannia, hail! Island of bliss! amid the subject seas That thunder round thy rocky coast! Thy sons of glory many! Alfred thine In whom the splendor of heroic war And more heroic peace, when governed well Combine: Whose name the Virtues saint And his own Muses love: the best of kings! With him thy Edwards and thy Henrys share, Names ever dear to fame — For lofty sense, Creative fancy and inspection keen, Thro' the deep windings of the human heart, Is not wild Shakespeare thine and Nature's boast? Is not each great and amiable Muse Of classic ages in thy Milton met? A genius universal as his theme; Astonishing as chaos — as the bloom Of blowing Eden fair — as heaven sublime. May my song soften, as thy daughters, I Britannia, hail." The population of London is nearly five millions; it increases at the rate of 45,000 annually. It covers 122 square miles, and its streets and suburbs, if laid end to end, it is said would reach from London to Naples and back again. Strange to say, it has more Jews than Palestine, and more Roman Catholics than Rome. Like most great cities it is situated on a river, the Thames, 60 miles from its mouth. 35 36 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Our delightful central hotel, the Inns-of-Court fronts on the south the green and nicely kept park, Lincoln's Inn Fields which secures for it an air of country rest- fulness, while on the north it fronts that great artery to the city's heart, High Holborn. To conform to the customs of the people, we must now change the denominations of money. The Eng- lish gold coins are the sovereign or pound, equal to twenty shillings and approximately equal to five dol- lars,- — and the half sovereign. The silver coins are the crown (5 shillings), the half-crown, the double florin (four shillings), the florin (two shillings); the shilling, approximately equal to 25 cents, the six- pence (12^), the three penny bits (6%,). The copper or bronze coin is the penny (2 cents), the half-penny, the farthing (% penny or x / 2 cent). The guinea, 21 shillings or, approximately, five dollars and a quarter. My first morning's ramble was to the Old Curiosity Shop, south of the Park aforesaid, which Dickens in- vested with great and peculiar interest. The building has been restored as much as possible like the origi- nal;restoration, i.e., partial rebuilding, being necessary with most antiquities to keep them from destruction, or becoming uninhabitable. Thence we went on to the magnificent tier of stone buildings called the Law Courts fronting the Strand. Thence for a penny mounted the top of an omnibus, as is commonly done by ladies in Europe, it affording much better views. Fifteen passengers beside the driver fill the top. One English peculiarity we found to be — that wheeled vehicles must keep to the left, FIRST JVEEK IN LONDON 87 not to the right, as in the United States. This notice was often posted up. The rule does not apply to pedestrians. "The Rule of the Road is a paradox quite: For as you are driving along, sir, If you Keep to the Left you will surely go right If you Keep to the Right, you'll go wrong, sir." Another novelty was the wilderness of short and stubby chimney tops upon the roofs of the houses. We rode through Fleet Street, so named from Fleet River which formerly ran between it and Ludgate Hill; past grand St. Paul's Cathedral; past Bowbell's church, whose bells seemed to the boy, Dick Whit- tington, to say: "Turn again, Whittington, Lord Mayor of London." We rode down Cheapside, the Poultry, past the Lord Mayor's mansion, to the Royal Exchange and the Bank of England, sometimes called the little old Lady of Thread Needle Street! We visited the Guild Hall where Queen Victoria was banqueted soon after her coronation in 1837, Here is a Museum full of curios: stones with inscrip- tions from Ninevah: relics of the Romano-British period. This is a place deserving study. Later we took 'bus for Madame Tussaud's famous wax works. These wax figures and relics depict (in a certain sense) the French Revolution; as they exhibit the prominent actors of that most dramatic struggle, life size, in natural attitudes, and the dress of that period. In- deed such is the skill of the arrangements, some flash their eyes and move their heads, as if instinct with life, and puzzled as you move around, you ask your- 38 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS self who are the living and who are the dead. Madam Tussaud, a native of Switzerland, was an artist in wax modeling in Paris before the Revolution in which Louis XVI. lost his life. She was engaged to teach her art to the king's sister, Elizabeth, and so resided at the Tuiileries and Versailles. She mod- eled the heads of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette, of Danton and Robespierrre, of Voltaire and Mirabeau. The head of Voltaire is the best specimen of her work. Fifty years ago she began an exhibition in London which, after she had modeled the head of the popular singer of the time, Malibran, became a great success. It now numbers 387 figures, portraits and relics, and embraces such characters as Cromwell, Joan of Arc, Knox, Calvin, Luther, Byron, Shakespeare, Scott and Dickens, Mrs. Siddons, Mrs. General Booth, Dis- raeli, the Kings and Queens of England, and many other potentates of the world. Among the relics is Napoleon's carriage in which he made the Russian campaign. The capable madame died at the great age of 90, but her great grandchildren keep up the exhibition with improvements. An orchestra plays very beau- tifully in the afternoon, and again in the evening, while visitors quietly pass through the collection in the different halls. It is well worthy a visit, and is specially entertaining to the young. FIRST SUNDAY IN LONDON. The next day I took the omnibus to the station, Elephant and Castle. A portly English gentleman FIRST V/EEK IN LONDON 39 kindly pointed out the various places of interest en route; the church where Rowland Hill, and afterward Mr. Sherman preached; the newer structure where Drs, Joseph Parker and Newman Hall had for a time officiated; the house where Rowland Hill died; the Peabody model apartments, being houses with suites of four or five rooms. This noble philanthropist gave two and a half millions dollars for the better housing of the industrious poor in London. Next came the Thames embankment which is a granite wall eight feet thick and forty feet high and 1,000 feet long, reclaiming a long strip of land from the Thames, an improvement completed in 1870, at a cost of two millions pounds sterling. We crossed Black Friars Bridge, so named from a monastery of Dominican Friars founded in the precinct in 1276, but during religious revolution suppressed. The Elephant and Castle is the unique name for the station South of the Thames where trains and omnibuses rendezvous. It is near the London and Chatham and Dover Railr way. It is also very convenient for conveying vis- itors to Mr. Spurgeon's church, which is adjacent, The portly gentleman having alighted some ways back, a young fellow 7 passenger kindly showed me the way to Spurgeon's, saying he was going there himself. He secured a good seat for "the American lady," found the hymns for me and gave me every information in his power, not ceasing his kindness till he had placed me on an omnibus going where I wished at the close of the service. How charming are such attentions from the young to women neither 40 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS young nor beautiful! Repeatedly I experienced sim- ilar kindnesses from entire strangers and I am glad to record their disinterestedness. Returning, my white ribbon W. C. T. U. badge gained me another pleas- ant acquaintance, a Mrs. M. and her daughter from the United Spates. When I alighted, the lady did the same, that we might enjoy a walk and talk to- gether; and it was a gratification that we met after- ward in Paris. I have often wondered why some are so friendly and others so cold and distant. The in- cident brings home its moral. The good that I desire from others let me do to them. SPURGEON AND HIS TABERNACLE. The Metropolitan Tabernacle was built in 1861, at a cost of ;£3 1,000 and seats 6,000. It has a sec- tion under the pulpit occupied by boys of his orphan- age, a large gallery on three sides of the building, and another gallery above. There is no organ. The singing is congregational led by a precentor. Every body sang. It was as the murmur of many waters; not meritorious from the artistic point of view, but highly devotional, A grand audience in respect to numbers was there, well filling the main floor and large gallery, and par- tially filling the second; not a scholarly, aristocratic audience, but respectable-looking plain people, most orderly and devout. Charles Hadden Spurgeon, from a ministerial line, commenced preaching in London at the age of 19: 1HE ritish Isles. FIRST WEEK IN LONDON 41 has preached there 38 years; is now 57. Beside his preaching, and pastoral work in which he is helped by his brother, he has a college, and Orphanage of which he is founder, and has published numerous books which have had a very wide circulation. At 10: 55 a. m» there was a bell signal and strangers were then free to take any unoccupied seats, which had been up to that time reserved for regular attend- ants. In his invocation he said: "Let a burst of heaven's glory light up every inmost heart. Everywhere may the spoken gospel be a thing of power. Remember those who have not remembered thee." They sang "Thine earthly Sabbaths, Lord, we love." Spurgeon read from Ex. 34th chapter, and from 2 Cor. 3rd chapter. His voice is smooth, voluminous, ringing, heard by 6,000 with ease, yet no apparent painful strain to speak loud. It appears his nature to speak full, deliberately, impressively. After reading Scripture he said: "Now let us sing a hymn of joyful praise " Afterward he said: "Now let us speak to God in prayer." Among his other petitions was this: "Is any standing shivering in the outercourts? Have we been getting away from the Lord, during the week? Oar prayer for such individually is "Draw me nearer, nearer, blessed Lord." We sometimes wish we might have forty days alone with God; but since this may not be, we will 'go in and out among men, as men 42 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS that deal with men for God; and deal with God for men; as those whose very presence is — as if an an- gel shook his wings! — Not desiring influence but de- siring that which brings it — the presence and power of God with us. Let the name of Christ be as oint- ment poured forth. "Look on the masses of London." (It was labor day, we had met a great procession of working men in High Holborn). "May there be peace in their homes." The text was Ex. 34: 29; concerning the glory in Moses' face after he had talked with God in the Mount. "Forty days of fasting," said Mr. Spurgeon, "were not calculated to improve the face. But Moses had been communing with God and there was reflected glory in his countenance. The man Moses was very meek. God could not afford to make our faces shine, we should be proud, as Brahmins before Sudras. It needs a very meek, lowly spirit, to wear that same burning heaven upon the brow. Moses wist not that his face shone. (I ) How came this glory in Moses' face? It was a reflection of the glory shown in the Mount. Would you shine among men? Pray Lord let Thy face shine on me! It was the result of fel- lowship with God. It was communion with God that implied Intercession for the people and self-oblivion. It implied also faithfulness. Those whose faces shine with heaven's reflected glory are no milksops, men made of sugar that pander to the times. "Note (II.) God's special favor to Moses. It was as if He said, This is my man. — Why didn't Moses know FIRST WEEK IN LONDON 43 his face shone? Because he had seen God. — Have you never been humble that men might say you were humble? Men say, I have got the second blessing; come and see my zeal. — Why did Moses have a veil? It was the natural meekness of the man. Sometimes we must veil the inward glory, because men are not ready to receive us with it. Moses shone with re- flected glory; Christ with incandescent light. Christ was all light. — Lesson: see the possibilities to which human nature can come. See what honor God can put on us, if we really put honor upon Him. Walk then in the light, even as God is in the light. He will give you an unconscious influence among men that will be a reflection of his own spirit, full of pow- er." In the afternoon I sought st. paul's cathedral. of which Carlyle said it was "the only edifice that struck him with a proper sense of grandeur." Was impressed with its vastness, harmony of proportions, its majesty within and without. Well is it inscribed of its architect, Sir Christopher Wren, who lies buried in its crypt: If you would see his monument, look about you. In the north aisle is a monument to Gen. Gordon. The Episcopal priest was attired in white surplice, the prayers were intoned ; boy singers dressed in uniform in the choir. There was much upstanding and downsitting and kneeling. A large part of the service was very delightful music, vocal and organ, sometimes soft as if far away and dreamy in effect. The sermon was by Canon Holland — "Why should it 44 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS be thought incredible that one rose from the dead, — " on the resurrection of Christ. The discourse was finely written; its style, statuesque. Such phrases as "illuminated sequences," and "the antithesis" were used. He remarked concerning prevalent skepticism: "Our daily life gets emptied of God's spirit; we get secularized, and therefore doubt." He stated the diffi- culties of credence in miracles with force, but the counter argument in their behalf seemed to me not irresistibly put. The immensity of the cathedral, and the distance of many from the preacher seemed to make it a difficult place to preach in. On a week day I visited the crypt and saw Nelson's and the Duke of Wellington's tombs; there also lie the artist-paint- ers, Reynolds, J. M. W. Turner, Landseer, and other distinguished names. The structure is 550 feet from East to West by 125 in width; the front is 180 feet wide and the top of the Cross is 400 feet from the crypt floor. It was begun in 1675 and completed in 1710. Its capacity is 22,000. Like the Pantheon at Paris it commemorates national heroes; has statues of Howard, the philan- thropist, Dr. Johnson, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Bishop Heber, and numerous generals, with monuments to the three Napiers, Henry Hallam and others. Its great bell may be heard 20 miles. In the evening I went to "City Temple" to hear the pastor of this Non- conformist Congregational chapel, DR. JOSEPH PARKER. The church is centrally located on High Holborn FIRST WEEK IN LONDON 45 St., is spacious, with a great gallery on three sides, and has a fine, large choir, with instruments. The music rendered is specially attractive- Dr. Parker, now sixty years old, has a powerful body and a leonine head; a good voice, sometimes projecting a phrase or word like a cannon-ball or thunder-burst. He is a deliberate speaker, a natural leader. Not light and rapid but the opposite, majestic. In a long pasto- rate he has wonderfully secured and held the public ear. His church is thronged. He seems the right man in the right place. His individuality verges on eccentricity. I was favored with an introduction after sermon and found him gracious. On another occa- sion I heard him preach on the Valley of Dry Bones, Ezek. 37: 3. Some of his thoughts I caught and impaled upon my note book thus: "The angel questions the prophet: 'Can these dry bones live?' Isaiah answers modestly. Men are not so fluent in their age as in their youth. There is the rapid and fluent gabble of youth. There is the elo- quence of hesitation. Youth is impatient and full of haste; but the man who never stops for a word, may be but the reciter of his own nothings! "Education tends not only to modesty, but to a larger faith and trust in the Infinite. It is only Igno- rance which flatly denies. God's interrogations are alarm bells rung in the chambers of the soul to rouse us to the dawn of immortal beauty. "Isaiah answers: 'Lord, thou knowest!' How narrow the limits of our personal knowledge! Some deny the existence of a world of spirits because none living has 46 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LAUDS seen it. But in the present world many things exist beyond our knowledge. Our real selves, none has ever seen them, they are unseen by us. Then since we exist, there may be a world unseen by us. "The prophet was commanded to speak to the dry bones. Instrumentality is the key of progress. We live for — God, and each other. There is no lone soul. Each must do something for another. "These bones were not only very many but very dry. The prophet's task seemed hopeless. It was his part to speak, not calculate the chances of success. We are not to choose our stage of action. We know not whether the dry bones can live; 'Lord, thou knowest. ' Among the dull dispirited eyes, among the morally dead, among all seemingly hopeless cases, in the most unfavorable surroundings we are to prophesy with glad heart. All this Scripture was a vision of truth in all ages. We are surrounded by correspondences. Ma- terial things suggest the spiritual. Our homes for in- stance, should typify heaven. Twenty-one years of my ministry in London are now ended. It is difficult to measure it only as you set it up against your- selves. The young man of thirty now — was just a boy beginning school then, the man of twenty-one was not then born. "Is this work easy? Let wise men answer. There is not an act of helpfulness of any man in this church which I do not cherish in memory. I live in my friends. Accept this acknowledgment of your unceas- ing co-operation." This was preached on the Sunday before his sum- FIRST WEEK IN LONDON 47 mer vacation. He has a wide variety of intonation. An emphatic word he sometimes throws out with the force of an explosion. Thus, contrasting men's treatment of each other with God's treatment of men, I heard him on another occasion say: "Imperfection is always cruel; it is only God who is great enough to forgive!" "God !" he uttered with a shout; "to for- give" had the hush of a whisper. On the thought that we all influence one another and responsibility cannot be evaded, he said: "None live alone. There is no isolated life. Every one is a part of a great Economy!" The last two words went up with the curve and descent of a sky-rocket. I heard him again on the "Root of the matter." "Men," said he, "judge one another by the trick of their manner, by their fluency, their beauty, their dress. All this is nothing to God! He looks at the heart. What's the man's purpose? is his inquiry. Is the root of the matter in him? Is the root of the matter in you ?" We had three long, full days of delightful drives, sight-seeing in London and its suburbs; our company were conveyed in six or seven handsome landaus, and accompanied by a guide who explained to us the more important and interesting objects, so that we were able to see much, intelligently, and without undue fatigue. Many of these places I visited more or less frequently in the months which I subsequently spent in London. OUR FIRST DRIVE. was through High Holborn and Holborn "Circus," 48 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS which is not a circus at all as Americans understand the term, but a circle; then over Holborn Viaduct which spans the old time gap between Holborn and Snow hills; thence past the grim, black, time-stained walls of Newgate prison where Mrs. Fry was an an- gel of mercy; across the street we see the church of St. Sepulchre whose bell in hanging days tolled dis- mally through the executions. On we go to Smith- field Martyrs place, and read the memorial tablet of the faithful brave who were roasted by bloody Queen Mary for Heresy! and are reminded that "Orthodoxy is my doxy and Heterodoxy is your doxy" in the minds of many still. The tablet is inscribed: "Within a few feet of this spot, John Rogers, John Bradford and Philpot and other servants of God, suffered death by fire for the faith of Christ, in the years 1555, 1556, 1557." Thank God, the world moves, and the severity of those days is past. Yet "man's in- humanity to man makes countless thousands mourn." The extension of railroads and commerce, and the great increase of travel in our day would go far toward enabling men to see things from each others' stand- point, and larger liberality of mind and feeling would ensue, were it not that where the white man goes, there goes the whiskey fiend! It was well said by an African chief: "Please send us more missionary and less strong drink!" We pass St. Bartholemew's Hospital and learn that it is a first-class school for surgery and medicine. Near by is the general postofBce where, if you are a foreigner and want a letter, you must show your pass- FIRST WEEK IN LONDON 49 port. . Cheapside and the Poultry are part of the same great thoroughfare which elsewhere is called Oxford St. and Holborn. The quaintness of Lon- don names is striking, as for instance: Thread and Needle street ; Mincing Lane; The Angel; Red Lion, Lamb's Conduit; Rag Fair; Rosemary Lane; Pall Mall; Petticoat Lane and Pudding Lane, and the Amen Corner which actually exists near Paternoster Row. Our early Anglo-Saxon ancestors dealt not in unmeaning hifalutin but called a spade, a spade. Their names had the very considerable advantage of being sensibly significant, and of describing a place in a word. "Chepe" in Cheapside meant a market; and the Poultry referred to the Poulterer's stalls there kept. Bread St., Milk St., Wood St., and Shoe lane, indicated where those commodities existed. Pater- noster Row and the Amen corner had reference to the sale there of rosaries and the Lord's Prayer. The signs were as grotesque as the nomenclature. The Angel and Steelyards meant Justice. Bulls and Axes meant a butcher's company. The Elephant and Castle meant a cutler's company. The Cat and Fid- dle meant catgut strings. Equally odd were the names of some of the char- acters in those more primitive days. There was Praise God Barebones, and his brother named If- Christ-had-not-died-I-had-been-Damned-Barebones, whose name was shortened into Damned Barebones! I have heard of a woman who wished to give her son a good Bible name. Naturally she objected to Judas Iscariot and Beelzebub; so she named him a whole 50 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS verse, "Through- much- tribulation- ye- shall-inherit the-kingdom-of-God!" It was a little inconvenient to rattle off at the top of her voice "Through-much- tribulation- ye- shall- inherit- the- kingdom- of- God, bring in some chips," so she called him "Trib" for short! We were now to see one of the most interesting antiquities of England more than 800 years old, THE TOWER OF LONDON. From the Lord Mayor's great mansion we pass through King William's street to King William's statue; thence east to Tower Hill. Here in the Ro- man occupation was the boundary of the old city; a part of the old Roman wall remains. Here stood the scaffold on which many high dignitaries were be- headed. Here by the flowing Thames, the Tower of London stands. Tradition relates that on this site great Caesar reared a stately pile. The most ancient part of this mighty fortress, the White tower or Keep was erected for William, the Norman Conqueror, and dates back to 1078 A. D. In its dungeon Sir Walter Raleigh, remembered tenderly by America for the in- terest he took in her colonization, paying $200,000 therefor from his own funds, whose name is commem- orated in the North Carolina Raleigh, was imprisoned twelve long years. The high spirit of the man ap- pears in his turning them to good account in writing his great History of the World. This citadel covers about 12 acres, and has many extensive rooms. It has been successively palace, FIRST WEEK IN LONDON 51 prison, and treasury for valuables. At present the crown jewels valued at about twenty millions of dol- lars are kept here under strong guard. In a glass- case we were shown the crown of Queen Victoria resplendent with a sapphire and diamonds, and con- taining the ruby worn by the Black Prince (whose tomb I afterward saw at Canterbury), with four other crowns, a golden scepter, plate used at christenings, and other costly regalia. We saw in the Horse Armory life-size figures of horses and men in the armor of different reigns from 1422 to 1685; and weapons arranged upon the walls with exquisite taste as flowers, the sun, etc. God speed the time when the death dealing instruments of war shall all have no worse use. We were shown also the building where the saintly Lady Jane Grey was imprisoned, the executioner's mask, the block on which she was beheaded, and the axe with which the bloody deed was done. The most affecting spot is the Tower chapel of St. Peter in Vincula (St. Peter in fetters, a name ap- propriate to the place), and the little green, outside, where was the more private block of execution. With- in the chapel were buried many remarkable persons. Here lie the short time favorites of Henry the VIII., Queen Anne Boleyn, Queen Catherine Howard — the once powerful rivals, Lord Protector Somerset and the Duke of Northumberland, Sir John Perrot a nat- ural son of Henry the VIII., the great Sir Thomas More, once an intimate of Erasmus, Holbein, and of Henry VIII., who beheaded him for refusing to take 52 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS the new oath of succession to the crown; and the Earl of Essex of whom Queen Bess was once very fond; with these were many others of historical note- Opposite the Traitors' gate I saw the Bloody Tower where were smothered the boy princes, his nephews, by command of Richard III. There were also dis- played the instruments of torture, the thumb-screw, collar of torment and rack of former ages. In this vicinity, is the fire monument, 223 feet high, commemorating the Great fire of London in 1666 which, beginning in Pudding Lane, and ex- tending nearly to Smithfield, consumed soon fifty million dollars worth of property. Like our own Chicago after the fire of 1871, London arose a phoe- nix from her ashes and in four years there was a city of brick, where had been wood. Near here is the famous London Bridge. The old one (which this supplants) was historic, and in the bloody days was often garnished with human heads on pikes. More than 20,000 vehicles pass over this bridge in 24 hours beside 107,000 foot passengers. I crossed it repeatedly and found it very suggestive. "I stood on the Bridge at midnight As the clock was striking the hour, And the Moon rose o'er the city Behind the dark church tower, Among the long black rafters The wavering shadows lay: And the current that came from the ocean Seemed to lift and bear them away." Thus Longfellow paints the picture; and another (Weatherly) sings: FIRST WEEK IN LONDON 53 ' 'Proud and lowly, beggar and lord Over the bridge they go; Hurrying on in the tide of life, Whither no man shall know. Who will miss them there to-morrow? Waifs, that drift to the shade or sun! Gone away with their songs, or sorrow; Only the river still flows on. Velvet and rags, so the world wags, Until the river no more shall run." CHAPTER IV. PALATIAL LONDON. "I have seen the greatest wonder which this world can show to the astonished spirit. I have seen it, and am still astonished, — forever will there remain fixed indelibly, on my memory, the stone forest of houses, amid which flows the rushing stream of faces of living men with all their varied passions; and all their terrible impulses, of love, of hunger, and of hatred, — I mean London,"— Heinrich Heine. A morning drive conveyed us to the Temple church, a relic of seven hundred years ago. It stands a little off from Fleet Street toward the Thames; was built by the Knights Templar on their return from the second Crusade, in 1185. This Round church is one of the four circular churches they constructed. It is partly early English Gothic, partly Romanesque. The choir is of recent date and richly decorated. The choral service on the Sabbath draws many visitors. An English lady of middle age was here the local Guide and explained the place impressively. Antiquity is not the only charm to this spot. Hard by lies the dust of the poet Goldsmith, whose exqui- site word paintings have become part of the treasures of literature. What scholar has not read delightedly "Sweet Auburn! loveliest village of the plain, — * * * * * How often have I paused on every charm, — The sheltered cot, the cultivated farm, 54 PALATIAL LONDON 55 The never failing brook, the busy mill The decent church that topped the neighboring hill, The hawthorn bush, with seats beneath the shade For talking age, and whispering lovers made!" He has left charming photographs of the various genii of the scene — the village Pastor. "A Man he was to all the country dear, And passing rich, with forty pounds a year, Truth from his lips prevailed with double sway, And fools, who came to scoff, remained to pray." the broken soldier too; who "Sat by his fire, and talked the Night away Wept o'er his wounds, or tales of sorrow done, Shouldered his crutch and showed how fields were won." the village schoolmaster: "The parson owned his skill, For, e'en though vanquished, he could argue still. While words of learned length and thundering sound Amazed the gazing rustics ranged around. And still they gazed, and still the wonder grew That one small head could carry all he knew!" Poor, yet rich Goldsmith! pinching poverty was the unrecognized good angel that spurred him to originate one of the earliest and most charming class- ics, the Vicar of Wakefield. Stern necessity, though none are fond of her, many have found the mother of blessing. The rude shaking of an English nest dropped the Pilgrim fathers upon Plymouth rock; but how fortunate, not only that they might find religious liberty, but become the Founders of the great Re- public. Along the beautiful Thames Embankment we rode, 5G GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS viewing Cleopatra's Needle which Mehemet All pre- sented to the British government, the mate to the Egyptian Obelisk at Central Park, New York. It is a huge block of granite representing Thothmes III offer- ing gifts to the gods. Its adventures in voyaging across the seas were wonderful. "Brought from the sand and desert forth To charm the pallid children of the North." We proceeded to Covent Garden, Charing Cross which King Edward I. caused to be erected where the procession stopped which bore his dead queen, Eleanor; and spent a delightful interval in viewing some of the one thousand and two hundred works that compose the Collections of THE NATIONAL GALLERY. Of course so vast a Museum requires many days of attentive study to begin to know it well. I was glad afterward to view it alone with more time for critical judgment. It is of inestimable value. Here was Leonardo da Vinci's Madonna with the Holy Children; Luini's Christ disputing among the Doctors; three from the noble genius of Murillo; three from the masterly Michael Angelo; The Mother and the Divine Child, and others from Raphael; nine from the great color-artist Titian; Corregio's Venus, Mars and Cupid, Rembrandt's Old Lady, and many others from that master of light and shadow; several of the rich and majestic scenes of Paul Veronese; many of Reuben's plump and pleasing figures. Sev- eral Vandyck's; one from Quentin Matsys, the black- PALATIAL LONDON 57 smith artist. Guido Rene's Mary Magdalene, Carlo Dolci's Mother and Child; The Annunciation by Fra Fillipo Lippi. Two from the saintly Fra Angelico. One or two from the line genius of Jan Steen and Van Ostrade; but to see them justly one should visit the Art Museums of Amsterdam and the Hague. There were pictures from Teniers and Girard Dou, who also saw the poetry that lurks in the common place; from Sassoferrato, Velasquez, Salvator Rosa, Albert Diirer, Poussin, Domenichino, with numbers from Cuyp, and Claude de Lorraine and others. There was a room devoted to the productions of the artist painter J. M. W. Turner. Of the British school, I noted with special pleasure Landseer's Shoe- ing the Bay Horse, Ary Scheffers Monica and St, Augustine, Hogarth, painted by himself. In such em- barrassment of riches it is impossible to enumerate all deserving of praise. The National Gallery fronts Trafalgar Square, with its monument to the naval hero Nelson. Thence I rode again down Whitehall, past the Horse Guards, where mounted soldiers sit in the gates, ready for instant service, past the old Banquet- ing House or Chapel Royal which belonged to Wol- sey's palace, and was rebuilt by James I., one of the most historic and interesting of London's edifices. Charles I. was beheaded in front of it. Cromwell in- habited Whitehall, Charles II. died in it. We came next to the immense Houses of Parlia- ment ; near them is Westminster Abbey and St. Mar- garet's. Here we paused; and here I often came again in later months. S8 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS WESTMINSTER ABBEY is the supremely interesting spot of London. Thir- teen English sovereigns and fourteen queens lie buried within its walls, covering a period of more than 1200 years. Not only is it sown thickly with the dust of kings, but here lies all that was mortal of heroes, statesmen, nobles, authors and poets. Its name of Abbey has been handed down from the time it was the church of a great Benedictine monastery. That institution ceased in the reign of Henry VIII. in 1540, but the name clings to it, though its legal title is the Collegiate Church of St. Peter in Westminster. This building is the growth of five centuries. Tra- dition states that in the days of Augustine, a noble Roman became bishop of London, and persuaded Sebert, King of the East Saxons, to build a church upon this site which was then but an island between the Thames and its tributaries. The date of that edifice was 6r6, and it was to be dedicated to St. Peter. Hence the present legal name. It fell into neglect and decay, and in its place a magnificent structure was erected by Edward, the Confessor, completed in 1065. He designed it for his own burial place, which led to other royal interments, and to all that gives it its distinctive character and extraor- dinary interest. Edward being the last king of the native English stock before the Norman invasion, and beloved by those to whom he had been munifi- cent, and his reign a peaceful one, the favorite spot for Coronations, royal marriages and funerals was near the Confessor's venerated dust. So it came PALATIAL LONDON 59 about that every reigning sovereign from the Norman Conqueror to Queen Victoria has received the crown beneath this roof within a few yards of the Con- fessor's tomb. Chaucer, first royal English poet was buried here in 1400 A. D. and two hundred years later, Edmund Spencer. To be interred beside their treasured re- mains was esteemed the highest honor, so the Poet's Corner became filled with Men of Letters. The church as it now stands, is mainly the worK of Henry the III. carried on by his successors. He demolished the eastern part of the former edifice leav- ing most of its nave standing; he enlarged the plan, and added a beautiful chapel. To this was added at the East end by Henry VII. the stately and magnifi- cent chapel bearing his name. The two towers at the West front were placed there by Sir Christopher Wren, adding dignity. The new choir and Reredos of alabaster and reddish spar, and twenty-two stained- glass windows are modern. The shape of the Confessor's church was cruci- form, the Cross being a symbol of spiritual truth, and symbols were much in vogue in the middle ages. It became the pattern of English cathedrals and the plan was retained when Henry III. reconstructed the edifice. The Abbey measures 416 feet from East to West, 200 feet being its greatest width. From the pavement to the roof is 101 feet, and to the Lantern roof 140 feet. Within and without it is a most stately, magnifi- cent and awe-inspiring pile. From the great front 60 COLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS doors, on the West, the eye takes in the range of noble pillars, the fretted vault, the long-drawn aisles, the monuments of England's most distinguished dead. Burke wrote "The moment I entered Westminster Abbey I felt a kind of awe pervade my mind which I cannot describe; the very silence seemed sacred." Milton thus describes it: "But let my due feet never fail To walk the studious cloisters pale. I love the high embowered roof, With antique pillars messy proof, And storied windows richly dight, Casting a dim religious light. Then let the pealing organ blow To the full-voiced quire below, In service high and anthem clear,. As may with sweetness, through mine ear, Dissolve me into ecstasies And bring all Heaven before my eyes." Here in the center of the Nave is the grave of Da- vid Livingstone, brought from Central Africa. On the slab is inscribed his last words: All I can add in my solitude is, "May Heaven's rich blessing come down on every one, American, English, or Turk, who will help to heal this open sore of the world." Here too lies the poet and divine, Dean French. George Peabody was here till re-interred in Massachu- setts. On the statue of the Earl of Shaftesbury who died in 1885 are the words, "Love — Serve." In the North aisle is a monument to the philan- thropist Buxton; here the tomb of William Wilber- force who secured the abolition of slavery in the British colonies: a tablet to the musician Balfe. PALATIAL LONDON Gl In the South aisle are monuments to Dr. Isaac Watts, and John and Charles Wesley; on the latter the pregnant words "The best of all is, God is with us." "I look upon all the world as my parish." "God buries his workmen but carries on his work." THE POET'S CORNER. This is in the South transept. Here in the wall is the ancient stone inscri bed "O rare Ben Jonson!" He died in 1637 and is buried in the Nave. Here lie the remains of Dryden, "glorious John" (d. 1700) Chaucer (d. 1400), Spenser, (d. 1599), Thomas Campbell, author of Hohenlinden, and Ye Mariners of England, (d. 1844); here is a statue of Addison whose remains lie in Henry the VII. 's chapel; a bust of the historian Macaulay, who is buried at the foot of Addison's statue ; Garrick and his wife who lie here in one grave, the historian Grote; the lexicographer, Dr Samuel Johnson, (d. 1784), the dramatist Sheri- dan (d. 1816), Charles Dickens, (d. 1870); James McPherson, author of the once popular Ossian, (d. 1796). These are buried in the Abbey. There are also monuments to many buried elsewhere, among whom some of the most distinguished are our own Longfellow, to whose memory there is a bust — Cow- ley, Milton, Granville Sharp, Southey, Samuel Tay- lor Coleridge, Shakespeare, Burns, Thompson, Gold- smith, Handel, Thackeray, Thomas Gray. Sir Isaac Newton is buried by the choir screen. I had the sad pleasure of musing beside the tombs of many of these in other cemeteries. 62 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS In the Baptistery rechristened "little Poet's Corner" are busts of Kingsley and F. D. Maurice; a seated statue of Wordsworth, a bust of Keble, author of the Christian Year, and a memorial window to George Herbert and Cowper. In St. John's Chapel is Tennyson's tribute to Sir. John Franklin. "Not here; the White North has thy bones; and thou Heroic sailor soul, Art passing on thy happier voyage now Towards no earthly pole." In St. Edmund's Chapel is the tomb of Lord Ed- ward Bulwer Lytton. Mrs. Siddons is represented by a full size statue as Lady Macbeth in the Nighfscene. This memorial is in St. Andrew's Chapel. Lady Augusta Stanley, the wife of the beloved Dean Stan- ley, is buried in Henry VII. 's chapel and her hus- band was later interred by her side. It is recorded of her, "For twelve years the unwearied friend of the people of Westminster, and the inseparable partner of her husband's toils and hopes, uniting many hearts from many lands, and drawing all to things above." The most beautiful and impressive monument has been thought to be the white marble one to Lady Nightingale which represents Death as starting from the stone and aiming at Lady Nightingale who shrinks back into her husband's arms. The sculptor has ren- dered the scene intensely dramatic. (Correct date 1730- Of a child buried in the Abbey it is inscribed: "She tasted of the cup of life, PALATIAL LONDON 63 Too bitter 'twas to drain; She put it meekly to her lips And went to sleep again." Of Spenser it is engraved: "The Prince of Poets whose divine gifts need no other witness than the works he left behind him." Of Gray I find the verse: "No more the Grecian muse unrivalled reigns, To Britain let the nations homage pay. She felt a Homer's fire in Milton's veins, A Pindar's rapture in the lyre of Gray." The statue to Watt, the improver of the steam engine, was by Chantrey and cost $30,000 dollars. It is in St. Paul's Chapel. For Isaac Newton, Pope prepared an inscription which was worthy of being used, "Nature and Nature's laws lay hid in night, God said: Let Newton be, and all was light." The fierce rancor of political revolutions appear in the disinterment of Oliver Cromwell and two of the leaders of the Commonwealth, after the Restoration. They were dug up, hung, decapitated, and their heads exposed. Only Cromwell's favorite daughter Eliza- beth Claypole's grave, was left undisturbed north of Henry VII. 's tomb. The chapels of Henry VII. and the Confessor are intensely interesting. Near Queen Elizabeth's stately tomb and fine recumbent effigy is the urn containing the bones of the murdered princes of the Bloody Tower. This is "Innocents Corner." Across the aisle is the beautiful rival of the Virgin Queen, Mary Queen of Scots. Beheaded by Elizabeth's reluctant 64 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS warrant, for conspiring against the Crown, at last "After life's fitful fever she sleeps well." At least she has a splendid and costly sarcophagus provided by her son, King James I. In the Confessor's Chapel I saw the Coronation chair enclosing the famous stone of Scone; used at all coronations. We have lingered long in this temple of Fame, but there is none more interesting in the world. Passing through the cloisters which date back to the Confessor's time, I was afterward shown the in- comparable Chapter House. This is most interesting. Begun in 1250, it was used for deliberative meetings by the Monastery, and monks were flogged before its central pillar. Later, the House of Commons met in it from the reign of Edward I., to the day when Henry VIII. was no more; about 250 yea. St. Margaret's Parish church, though overshadowed by the magnitude of the Abbey, which it nearly joins, is important and historic. It is a handsome per- pendicular church, with a nave of 130 feet, and a very ancient and beautiful stained glass East window. The West window was presented by Americans in commemoration of Sir Walter Raleigh, the founder of Virginia. The inscription is by James Russell Lowell. "The New World's Sons, — from England's breast we drew Such milk, as bids remember whence we came; Proud of her Past, from which our Present grew, This window we inscribe with Raleigh's name." In St. Margaret's churchyard the body of Oliver PALATIAL LONDON 65 Cromwell's mother, exhumed from the Abbey, rests. This was not my first visit nor my last to the ven- erable Abbey and its precincts. I supplemented first impressions by more deliberate scrutiny in my ten weeks' midsummer outings in London. Thence we drove via Victoria street to Buckingham Palace, the Queen's city residence, (though she was married in St. James Palace), with ground comprising forty-three acres. The palace on the east fronts St. James Park which has ninty-one acres; to the north it looks upon the Green Park which contains about sixty acres. It was wonderful to find in this immense metropolis such extensive contiguities of shade; such fields of well trimmed turf, groves, miniature lakes. Hyde Park which Picadilly separates from Green Park con- sists of 388 acres; "a hide of land in ancient law meant as much as could be cultivated by one plough;" a fact which explains its name, Hyde Park. Regent's Park is still larger with 472 acres. I was often surprised on emerging from some densely built district to come on a vision of greenness and beauty. I found these gardens and parks, where the land must be extremely valuable, were jealously guarded from encroachments by buildings, being regarded as the breathing places of London, essential to the health of its millions. I was glad to find that some of these were open, as all parks are in Paris, to the masses. What would it cost, said the wife of George II., to shut out the public from St. James Park, making it a palace-garden ? "Only three crowns !" was Walpcle's significant reply. 66 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Behind Buckingham Palace is Constitution Hill, a street of rural charms. Thrice the Oueen riding there was shot at by mad assassins. Truly, "unquiet is the head that wears a crown !" Returning by Pall Mall — the name is derived from paille-maille, a game of hoops, mallets and balls, which Charles II. used to play here — we passed Marlboro House, the abode of the Prince of Wales; we drove on Regent street, the finest street of shops — on Shaftesbury Avenue, a new and handsome street named after the beloved philanthropist, and coming into Holborn regained our inn. CHAPTER V. EXCURSIONS IN LONDON AND SUBURBS. [London at early morn seen from Westminster Bridge.] "Dull would he be of soul who could pass by A sight so touching in its majesty, ****** Ships, towers, domes, theaters and temples lie Open unto the fields and to the sky, Ne'er saw I, never felt a calm so deep! The river glideth at its own sweet will, Dear God, the very houses seem asleep, And all that mighty heart is lying still." Wordsworth. My third, all-day drive furnished a panoramic circle of northwestern, northern and southern London. Through a vast region of well-built houses, and an interminable length of well-paved streets, we rode to REGENTS PARK which is very extensive and inviting with its greenness and shade. It has a lake and Zoologi- cal Gardens which I afterward had the pleasure of visiting, and seeing the numerous and fine collec- tion of bears, monkies, hyenas, lions, tigers and other quadrupeds and birds. Here without the trouble and cost of an Oriental tour, you may ride high on camel 67 68 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS back, or on the ponderous striding elephant. Thackeray liked to visit the Zoo, in its diversions leaving distracting cares behind.' It goes without saying I visited the BRITISH MUSEUM (as what American does not), once and again with increasing satisfaction. This magnificent Institution with boundless treasures of learning was opened up to the public in 1759. Beside books it contains ten departments. I was specially interested in the Antiquities collections, and the manuscripts of distin- guished persons. From the Roman Sculptures and Architectural remains, I passed successively to the Greek, the Assyrian, and Egyptian, which last take us back to the period where the world was young. The statue of Memnon at Thebes bears date, 1,500 B. C. Here are Sculptures executed fully 2000 years B. C. — almost four thousand years ago. Abra- ham was then a youth, Moses not born for several hundred years after. The mummy rooms were in- tensely interesting. There was one marked "Cleo- patra." I learned that it was not, as some visitors have supposed, the majestic Egyptian Queen who bewitched Mark Anthony. The Elgin marbles from the Parthenon should be noted by any one who hopes to visit Greece, perhaps still more by those who will never go. They are very choice specimens and fragments of early Greek art, and cost the government 35,000 pounds sterling. It seems almost a robbery that that classic land should EXCURSIONS IN LONDON AND SUBURBS 09 be deprived of them by a firman of the Sublime Porte, or Turkish power which gave them away to the Earl of Elgin. The Vase rooms and examples of Oriental art, with the Frank collection of Majolica and glass, are well worth a visit. Here too I traced the manu- scripts of Literati; Dickens, Charles Lamb, Gray, Hood, Burns and others; and the autographs of Milton, Martin Luther, Michael Angelo, and others, known to fame. The chirography of Burns, Gray, Queen Elisabeth and Mrs. Siddons was notably ex- cellent. Elsewhere I saw the manuscript letter of Anne Boleyn to the Pope of Rome. It was scrawl- ing, and indicated femininity if not illiteracy; not so that of her educated and capable daughter, the Virgin Queen. — The supremely interesting curio was the Rosetta Stone by the aid of which hieroglyphics are now deciphered and the records of antiquity are unlocked. At Islington we saw the "Angel!" In the long past days when this locality was a village suburb, and travel was by mail coach, here was a noted inn; alas, a fallen Angel now, for it is a gin- palace as well as tavern — and Strong Drink is respon- sible for most of the poverty and wretchedness, shame and crime, that notwithstanding London's palatial splendor, make her the saddest city in the world. By the ancient City Road, a long diagonal of the times primeval, when men steered by the shortest way to their destination, we reached a profoundly interesting spot, the old Nonconformist Cemetery, 70 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Bunhill Fields. I shall here give impressions from my later pilgrimage to the same shrine, for among the Dead our best company is quiet meditation. It is a small old graveyard in an unpretending quarter, simple and primitive yet it has a spiritual, an ineffaceable charm far beyond merely beautiful landscape or exquisitely sculptured stone. We feel ourselves in the atmosphere of great and holy souls. Near the center is the Immortal Dreamer's tomb, surmounted by his full size effigy in marble in a recumbent position. It is inscribed JOHN BUNYAN, Author of the Pilgrim's Progress. Obt. 31 Aug. 1688. Aged 60. On the sides are relievos in the marble represent- ing Pilgrim with his staff and pack; Pilgrim losing his pack at the Cross, — Pilgrim with a roll in his hand. It was restored by public subscription under the presidency of the Earl of Shaftesbury in 1862. A subsequent visit to Bedford, Elstow and the Ouse, made every vestige of Bunyan precious to me. Near by are "Richard Cromwell his vault," and Henry Cromwell, brothers of the valiant Protector also the remains of the eminent and saintly Dr. John Owen, high in office in Cromwell's time. Here too is the inspired Bard to whom the church is indebted for the largest number of the hymns that wing her faith and devotion. EXCURSIONS IN LONDON AND SUBURBS 71 ISAAC WATTS, D. D. Died 1748 In uno Jesu omnia. Pastor of a church of Christ in London. I sought out earnestly a woman's grave, who en- stamped upon her devout and scholarly sons, her own mental abilities, independence and force of character. I found it across the walk under a small shading tree, inscribed: "Here lies the body of Mrs. Susannah Wesley. Widow of the Rev. Samuel Wesley M. A. late Rector of Epworth, Lincolnshire, who died July 23, 171 2 aged 73 years. She was the youngest daughter of the Rev. Samuel Annesley ejected by the Act of Uniformity from the Rectory of St. Giles, Cripplegate, Aug. 24, 1662. She was the mother of 19 children of whom the most eminent were the Rev. 's John and Charles Wesley; the former of whom was, under God, the founder of the Societies of the people called Methodists. "Sincere and steadfast to arise And claim her mansion in the skies, A Christian here her flesh laid down The Cross exchanging for a Crown." In Bunhill Fields is a handsome monument to De Foe. "Born 1661. Died 173 1. Author of Robin- son Crusoe. This monument is the result of an appeal to the boys and girls of England and represents the offerings of 1700 persons." Another tombstone enters into details mirth pro- vokingly, while the evidence of a resigned spirit of unusual fortitude deserves to inspire respect. — "Mary n GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Page," — the tombstone states — "the wife of a Baronet, was tapped 66 times and discharged 240 gallons of water, without ever repining at her case, or fearing the operation." A little ways off to the northwest of Bunhill fields, I sought and found in an enclosed garden, a tablet to "The Founder of the Sect known as Quakers, or Friends, GEORGE FOX. Born 7th month 1624 Died 13th of the nth month 1690. Aged 66 years." Returning, I crossed the street eastward to Wesley's Chapel on City Road, and in its rear stood reverently beside his grave. He died March 21, 179], in the 88th year of his age. He was preaching with incessant diligence and fervor to the last. The in- scription adds: Reader! if thou art constrained to bless the instrument, give God the glory! There is also an inscription to his sister Mrs. Mar- tha Hall, which shows her worthy of her remarkable connection. "She opened her mouth with wisdom and in her tongue was the law of kindness." She died in 1799 aged 85. The attractions of these consecrated spots were so powerful that I soon after found my way there alone, when I was shown also the Interior of Wesley's Parsonage, his parlor and bedroom, on the first floor above; the china teapot used on Sunday afternoons, when his preachers met at his house be- fore going out to speak. Upon the teapot is the verse which as grace the Wesleyans are accustomed to sing before meals, EXCURSIONS IN LONDON AND SUBURBS 73 "Be present at our table, Lord! Be here and everywhere adored. These creatures bless, and grant that we May feast in paradise with thee." There was also the verse sometimes used after meals. "We thank thee, Lord, for this our food, But more because of Jesus' blood. Let manna to our souls be given, The bread of life sent down from heaven." I saw also his clock and desk; and in the adjoining Chapel where he preached, his pulpit. Though lowered from its former elevation, it is still high, and closes with a door like a barricade. The pews too retain old-fashioned doors. Three stained glass windows have been inserted, one to Wesley, one to Bishop Simpson by admiring Americans. — Such are the changes of a century in the growth of a great city that the membership have either died or to a large extent removed, and the attendance depends much on Americans or other tourists attracted by the name of Wesley to the chief scene of his truly remarkable and heaven inspired labors. Christians are earnestly requested to help them carry on their ragged schools. — On attending a Sabbath morning service I found the exchange of the absent pastor wearing gown and bands, and the service an Episcopal one in form; having neither the fire and resounding vigor of the old time circuit rider and class leader, nor the cul- tured fervor of modern American Methodism. Re- turning to the sepulchre of the great leader, I noted near him the grave of the eminent expositor whose n GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS ponderous commentaries adorn so many religious libraries, Dr. Adam Clarke Died 1832. On another grave hard by is recorded "A plain but honest man." A long ride across the Thames, in Southwark boro, amid interminable forests of houses, came next. Houses in London are not built so tall as in Chicago. South of London Bridge is a church second in im- portance only to Westminster Abbey, St. Savior's, formerly called St. Mary Ovary, a contraction of St. Mary of the Ferry. The name was due to the fact that before the building of London Bridge, the profits of the ferry were allowed this church. It was built before the Norman Conquest, rebuilt about 1400 A. D. Edmund, the brother of Will Shakespeare, is buried here. By descending a long, stone stairway I found the entrance to the church. While riding we saw the ancient Hostelry, White Hart Inn, where Dickens disclosed Sam Weller officiating as Boots, and introduced him to the world. Recrossing the river we passed the former lodging of pretty Nelly Gwynne, a famous actress of 1666 in the same Drury Lane Theater, where the great Mrs. Siddons after- ward appeared. Near St. Giles church we reached the place of the Seven Dials, "Where to seven streets, seven dials count their day." Seven streets converging, with seven house fronts decorated with seven clock faces, must have per- plexed many a weary pedestrian. No wonder the number of dials has now been reduced to two. We reached the Inns-of Court Hotel, prepared to do full justice to the appetizing viands of the noontide lunch; EXCURSIONS IN LONDON AND SUBURBS 75 after which, refreshed, we spent the remainder of the summer day, visiting the South Kensington Museum, and riding with the gay world in the Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park, and in the "swell" streets of the aristocratic West End. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM The route thither is delightful, along Piccadilly, affording glimpses of the turrets of Buckingham Palace beyond the clustering verdure of Green Park. The Museum has a bewildering variety of interesting objects, was opened in 1857, since when 28,500,000 people have visited it. There are numerous fine copies of Art Master- pieces, such as the Trajan column and its relievos, the Biga or two-horse chariot of the Vatican, and two exquisite pulpits of Pisa, beside rare and beautiful things impossible to mention. Upstairs are the collections of books, manuscripts, and paint- ings bequeathed by Messrs Dyce and Forster, the Sheepshanks collection and many others. The paintings in which I was specially interested as an ardent lover of the divine Art, were all modern, a great number lifelike and charming. Among those which specially pleased me, sometimes for the idea expressed as well as technique, were: Faed's, What the Poor do for the Poor; Webster's, The Lesson; Contrary Winds; Children at Prayer; Landseer's, Naughty Child. Suspense, (a dog watching a door) ; The school-boys fight interrupted. Is it one or the other? by Stone; % GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS The joyless Winter Day. Cupid and Psyche (marble group); Collin's, House Interior. There were so many, I ceased to write down the names of those I preferred. Saw the original autographs of Words- worth, Napoleon, which was execrable, Keats, Barry Cornwall, Julius Hare, Robert Browning which was fine and neat, Byron, Swift, Young, Carlyle, R. W. Emerson, Longfellow, Lowell, Bulwer Lytton, Dickens, who was given to interlining and improving his manuscript, Tom Moore, Mrs. Gaskell. Saw the earliest edition of Shakespeare's plays and Mil- ton's Paradise Lost; and Goldsmith's chair. "Did you see the Queen?" No, but I have seen her daughter Louise, the Marchioness of Lome; a figure medium-sized and plump, a sensible attractive face. The marquis and marchioness reside at Ken- singtonPalace beside the gardens through which we drove. We saw also Apsley House, where the Duke of Wellington lived at Hyde Park Corner; the Albert Memorial one of the most beautiful and costly mon- uments in the world. It is of white marble. A statue of Prince Albert is surmounted with a canopy, and spire 175 feet high. The approach is by a flight of steps. The memorial is surrounded by many finely sculptured groups and figures and cost ,£150,000. Thus far we had viewed the splendor of London with only rare glimpses of its squalor. We had seen its palaces, but not its abysses. I was not satis- fied till at a later period I saw the other half, the slums; but of this I will speak hereafter. So great the contrast, so pitiful the condition of the extremely EXCURSIONS IN LONDON AND SUBURBS 77 indigent, that I fancy its magnificence must seem to them almost a mockery, and that many hearts feel the sentiment. "Oh, England is a pleasant place for them that's rich and high, But England is a cruel place for such poor folks as I." After the bewildering immensity and variety of the vast Metropolis, it was restful for our next excursion to turn to pleasant fields, and hedgerows of mingled green and white, and to ride uphill and down dale. "God made the country, man made the town," WINDSOR CASTLE. Passing the marble arch, we entered Railway car- riages at Paddington Station and were soon at Windsor, 21 miles west, upon the Thames. Here William the Conqueror had a residence, and on its site Windsor Castle was built for Edward III. five hundred years ago. The immense pile with its numerous towers and turrets stands upon a hill. We were conducted through the state apartments which include the Waterloo Dining Hall, the Van Dyck Room, the Queen's Audience chamber, hung with tapestry, Chapel Royal (or St. George's Hall) built 1474, a fine Perpendicular Gothic, 200 feet long, in which is a Coronation chair; here is Henry VI's tomb, the vault with the remains of Henry VIII, Jane Sey- mour, and Charles I. We saw the grand Reception room hung with Gobelin tapestry and containing the magnificent Malachite vase given by the Emperor Nicholas of Russia; a clock which when wound goes a whole year. We ascended by 213 steps the Round 78 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Tower, taking a view of four counties. We also visited the Wolsey Chapel which the Queen restored as the Albert chapel in memory of Prince Albert. It contains a Sarcophagus with an effigy of the Prince Consort in white marble. His body was buried in a Mausoleum at Frogmore. Thence we took wagonettes for a twenty mile cross-country excursion; passing Eton College a half mile from Windsor, where a thousand lads are at school. They wear a uniform of high hats and short jackets. Through Slough, we came to STOKE POGIS CHURCH, where is the scene of Gray's Elegy: . •'Beneath those rugged elms, that yew tree's shade, Where heaves the turf in many a mouldering heap, Each in his narrow cell forever laid, The rude fore fathers of the hamlet sleep. Far from the madding crowd's ignoble strife, Their sober wishes never learned to stray; Along the cool sequestered vale of life They kept the noiseless tenor of their way. The poem fitly pictures the place. Nothing could be more calm and sweetly rural than this spot. Near by is a large and stately monument to the poet whom "melancholy marked for her own." He rests beside his mother — next the village church at Stoke Pogis. — At a little distance is Stoke Hall, where William Penn spent his earlier life. Three miles from Stoke we reached the BURNHAM BEECHES, great, old, ragged trunks of trees still growing, knotty EXCURSIONS IN LONDON AND SUB'JRBS 70 and gnarled, with low spreading branches. The city of London has purchased the spot and laid out drives. There I saw one hollow beech into which some time an acorn had dropped, A rough wind may have wafted it, or squirrel or bird carried it, little knowing how important was the act, or whereto it would grow. But the acorn took root. From a tiny plant it grew, and by and by spread its leaves out of the rugged beech and waved them in the light and air of heaven. Now it is a thrifty tree, sure in time to supplant by its vigor the exhausted beech. So too Truth, from small be- ginnings, with immortal vigor shall supplant and de- stroy Error. It may be yours, it may be mine to carry the acorn. Shall we do our part? An eight miles ride from Burnham brought us to Jordan's meeting place which is in a lone sequestered spot, being a portion of a farmer's residence. Here is the Friends' meet- ing room where they used to meet frequently for worship, and still assemble once a year. The benches and room remain precisely as when Penn addressed them, though he died in 1718. In the small front yard, surrounded by forest trees, lies the founder of Pennsylvania. The headstone reads: WILLIAM PENN, 1718. HANNAH PENN, 1726. Adjoining is the grave of his first wife Gulielma Penn, who died in 1689, and at the foot were laid 80 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS five children of William Perm. The utmost rural simplicity marks the scene. His life and work are indeed his best monument, yet the New World, or the great State he founded might justly show its appreciation in some tangible mark of respect. From this silent secluded shrine, we rode to Chal- font St. Peters, where I' caught sight of the magic words, Milton's Home. There the great man finished Paradise Lost, and began Paradise Regained. We proceeded to Rickmansworth, where Penn spent his honeymoon, and planned the American colony; and thence took rail for London. CHAPTER VI. LA BELLE FRANCE. "Salut a la France!" "Thy deeds of glory shine like a star, In song and in story Thou'rt known near and far, — Salut a la France!" It was desirable to visit the Riviera and Rome, be- fore the access of midsummer heats; also to tour over Switzerland before the rush of travel should fill the hotels. Deferring therefore all studies in Sociology or other subjects of inquiry in London, till August and September, when I would settle down in London lodgings, I started in company with our American party for the tour of Continental Europe. It was early May — the 5th. The English fields were softest green, the banks gay with yellow furze; there were fields of hops, pastures with sheep and lambs, and the trim hawthorne hedges for which England is famous. We passed Chiselhurst, attract- ively situated among groves, the retreat of Napoleon III. and the Empress Eugenie after the Franco-Prus- sian war. Two years later the discrowned potentate met an enemy who allowed him neither retreat nor armistice, Death. Not only was the fair Eugenie's pride humbled, but her affections were pierced in the 81 82 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS death of her son and heir killed in Africa. Their remains have been removed to Farnborough, where the ex-Empress now resides, an impressive example of the uncertainty of earthly glory and power. Our route was by the narrow channel, Folkstone to Bologne. — Nature was in her most charming mood. The English channel which is often exceedingly rough was delightfully smooth. We had an enjoyable pas- sage sitting on the steamer's upper deck, looking backward on the white cliffs of Dover, and forward for the first welcome glimpse of the green shores of LA BELLE FRANCE! Only ninety minutes on the water, and we were stepping on historic soil. Could it be we were now in the late Empire of the Napoleons, the thunder of whose mighty deeds once shook Europe? in France, the theater of bloody revolutions? France, lately the center of the lawless Commune? France, the land of historic monuments! France, thrice a Re- public! France the capricious, who builds one day, destroys the next, and rebuilds the day after! France the volatile and inflammable, but France the thrifty and prosperous under the people's rule to-day! France, the promoter of the Fine Arts! France, ever the enthusiastic lover of the Beautiful and the Gay! France, whose long roll of fame counts among her sovereigns, the good Saint Louis; among her statesmen, a de Tocqueville; among her diplomatists, a Talleyrand; among her scientists, a Pascal and a La Place; amon^ her philosophers, Des Carte, Comte, LA BELLE FRANCE 83 Cousin, and Jean Jacques Rosseau; among her histo- rians, Guizot and Lamartine; among her poets and dramatists, Corneille, Beranger, Racine, Moliere; among her novelists, Sue, Dumas, Balzac and Victor Hugo, Saint Pierre, Daudet and George Sand; among her wits Rabelais and Voltaire; among her leaders of the Salon, a Recamier and de Stael; among her singers, aMalibran; among queens of the tragic stage, a Rachel and Bernhardt; among her composers, Auber and Gounod; among her artists, a Lebrun, a Corot, a David, Daguerre, Dore, Rosa Bonheur; among her inventors, a Palissy and Jacquard; among her reformers, a Calvin and Beza; among her orators, Adolphe Monod and Bossuet; among her martyrs, Coligny and the Huguenots; among her heroines, Joan of Arc; among generals, Napoleon Bonaparte! among her saints, Fenelon, Madame Guyon, the noble St. Denis, the holy St. Genevieve! Great spirits of the Past! what a company! It seems a dream to be here, where they lived and moved and left their impress. We shall draw nearer some of them as we visit their haunts, or linger at their sepulchres. It is 255 miles from London to Paris; by time, Z]/ 2 hours. We go "first class" and the requisite number of compartments are reserved for our company. The cars are richly upholstered. The European arrange- ment is quite different from the American, the rail- way carriages being divided into separate compart- ments marked respectively first class, second class, third class; the doors open at the sides, instead of 84 GOLDEN MEMORIES OP OLD WORLD LANDS the ends; the guard, who is conductor, walks outside on a rail when taking your ticket, which you hand him through the open window of the door. The depot is called the station, the ticket office is the booking office, the baggage is luggage, the baggage-car, the luggage-van. As there is no system of baggage checks, one's belongings must be carefully labeled, and the owner identify his property on its being de- posited at the station. Porters are most conveniently at hand to carry par- cels for a slight remuneration. I found them during my independent travel a great assistance; and that it was wise to carry separately from gold or other valuables, a little bag filled with small bits of silver coin, and copper currency of the country, ready for all such frequent uses; to have been obliged to delay to make change, especially with foreigners whose lan- guage I could not understand, nor they mine, would have been a serious inconvenience. It is now neces- sary, just as we are beginning to be wonted to pounds shillings and pence, to change again money denomi- nations to gold Napoleons, (twenty francs) half Napoleons, francs (about 20 American cents), and centimes, of which five make an American cent. Looking about us, we see a trim road-bed, a pleas- ing country; carefully tended farms where women were out at work; we catch a glimpse of the tall cathedral-spire of Amiens and long to see it more distinctly; but the express flies on, and we soon dis- cover, with rising excitement we are entering the vast metropolis, Paris. Here we are at Gare St, LA BELLE FRANCE 85 Lazare, undergoing the Custom House formalities, which amount to nothing in our case, as we carry neither spirits nor cigars. We are soon quartered in the extensive and luxurious Hotel Terminus fat this time new), and a separate table being assigned our party, now consisting of twenty-eight, are soon seated in a sumptuous dining hall enjoying that inner re- freshment which travelers, however etherial their mental tastes, alike heartily appreciate. Dinner is a big affair, each of the seven courses being preceded with a change of china and cutlery. After renewal of our spirits (not alcoholic), and possibly almost "too full for utterance," we return to the great draw- ing-room, which is ablaze with electric light and splendor. We saunter with our companions into the street for a first glimpse of Paris by gaslight. I am struck with one peculiarity of Paris; the outdoor life of the people, and their conviviality and sociabil- ity till the small hours. Everywhere on principal streets, small tables are set in front of buildings under awnings, with chairs for two or four; and here are seated men and women eating and drinking. Till eleven o'clock the street is full of light and resonance of lively voices and whir of wheels. Some of the finer buildings are a blaze of lighted lamps, the gen- eral appearance intensely brilliant. We return, as- cend the Hydraulic lift, and after gazing from my chamber window on three brilliantly lighted streets and the strange new world below, — woo "Tired Nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep." In the examination of France, it will be advanta- 86 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS geous to have in mind a few points of its history. About two thousand years ago, possibly more, a wandering tribe settled on an island in the river Seine. They were fierce people, living by hunting and fishing. They built huts upon the island and called their town Lutetia, that is, dwelling of the waters. Themselves they called the Parisii, which probably meant from the bar or par, a frontier. The Seine signified crooked river. By and by came the Romans conquering, and in 54 B. C. Julius Caesar convened an assembly of states at Lutetia. The Gauls rebelled against the Roman masters and burned that city to prevent its falling into their hands. But it grew up again, and the Romans took it and called it by the name of its founders, Parisii. A palace was built on the island now called La Cite, and another palace on the South bank, remains of which we shall see. In the latter dwelt the Emperor Julian. Two hundred and Mty years after Christ, the good St. Denis the Areopagite introduced the gospel to this people, but suffered martyrdom. Tradition states that after his head was cut off, he picked it up, and carried it on his arm across the field. But the martyrs of yesterday are the heroes of to-day! He has since been so revered, that a magnificent church edifice, the St. Denis, has been erected in the suburb that bears his name, in which most of the kings of France have been buried, and which may be justly termed its Westminster Abbey. Many years went by. The prestige of the Roman LA BELLE FRANCE 87 Eagles waned, In 496 A. D., Clovis (which is the same name as Louis) got the mastery for the Franks, fixed his capital at Paris in 507, which may be re- garded as the foundation of France, He married a christian queen, Clotilde; embraced Christianity him- self and built a christian church. In this time lived Genevieve a woman abounding in charities who was buried in his abbey, and became the Patron saint of Paris. Her tomb we shall see. In A. D, 800, under the mighty Charlemagne, the kingdom of the Franks was extended to include France, Germany, Italy, Spain; a territory as great as the Western Roman empire. After his death, it fell in pieces, and in 987 the Parisians elected Hugh Capet, Duke of Francia, as their king. Thus began the Capetian dynasty of which there were fifteen monarchs extending 987 — 1328. Among its kings was the much loved Louis IX, called Saint Louis, 1226 — 1270. He caused the building of the very beautiful St. Chapelle for the safe keeping of the sacred relics from Jerusalem. In his reign Robert Sorbonne founded, south of the Seine, the school which became the head of the very celebrated Univer- sity. As early as 1436 it had 25,000 students. The dynasty of the House of Valois was from 1328 to 1589, including thirteen sovereigns. In 1466 the famine, the plague, and the wolves so desolated Paris that malefactors from all countries were invited to find a sanctuary here with a view to repeopling the capital, yet soon after, the French nation was the most powerful in Europe. 88 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS In the sixteenth century, the era of the Reforma- tion, Protestantism under the teachings of Calvin took root in France ; its adherents were called Hugue- nots, — "Covenanters." The persecution of them be- gan under Francis I. continued under his successor Henry II, the husband of Catherine de Medicis, and under her sons, Francis II. and Charles IX. Through Catherine's influence the cruel massacre of the Pro- testants on St. Bartholemew's day, Aug. 23 — 24, 1572 was devised and executed. Ten thousand fell victims in Paris, and forty-five thousand more were slaughtered throughout France. Three of this wicked woman's sons sat on the throne of France, the first of them was Francis II, the husband of the beautiful Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots: the last of them was the last of the House of Valois. Then began the reign of the Bourbons, 1589 — 1789, seven kings — who traced their lineage to St. Louis. Henry IV. the first king of this line was the husband of Marie de Medicis, who bought and beauti- fied the Palace of the Luxembourg, and whose figure is conspicuous in the series of pictures wrought by Rubens, which I saw in Munich; and in the Louvre paintings of his school. Her son was Louis XIII. in whose reign, Cardinal Richelieu was the foremost character; whose tomb and monument I saw in the Sorbonne church; an exquisite piece of sculpture. Her grandson was the famous long-lived Louis XIV., who was king seventy-two years (1642 — 1714 ) who is commemorated in many monuments and is associ- ated with numerous palaces of the imperial city and LA BELLE FRANCE 89 its suburbs. In the two hundred years from 151 5 to 171 5, under the monarchs, Francis I, Henry IV Louis XIII, and Louis XIV, Paris assumed a new phase of splendor and prosperity. In this time were begun or completed the Louvre, the palace and garden of the Tuilleries, Palais Royal, the Luxem- bourg, Jardin des Plantes, Hotel des Invalides, the Champs Elysees, the Gobelin Manufactory, Porte St. Denis and Porte St. Martin triumphal arches, Place Vendome, Hospital St. Louis. In the reign of Louis XIV, eighty streets were opened, thirty-three churches erected. Magnificent structures arose. It was to all appearance the golden age of France. There were great Names too in that Seventeenth century. There were the philosophers Des Cartes (1596 — 1650) and Pascal (1623 — 1662), — the great painter Poussin (1594 — 1655) — the dramatists, Cor- neille (1606— 1684) and Moliere (1622 — 1673), — the poets La Fontaine (1621 — 1705), and Boileau (1636 — 171 1), and Racine (1639 — 1699); Massilon was a great preacher, and the bishops Bossuet and Fenelon (165 1 — 171 5) for eloquence with tongue or pen, stood in the front ranks of fame. But though an age of brilliancy and luxury, it was one of extravagance and dissoluteness. Louis XV. was thoroughly corrupt. The immorality at court appears in the relation of Madame Maintenon to Louis XIV., and of Mesdames Pompadour and du Barri, to Louis XV., and the pro- visions made for these favorites which I saw in the palaces of Versailles and Fontainebleau. Meanwhile to support the royal debaucheries, the taxation of the 90 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS peasants was extreme. In 1774, the year of the first American continental congress, Louis XV. died; and his grandson, Louis XVI. came to the throne with his wife Marie Antoinette. They were amiable but young, and had not experience or wisdom for the hour. Revolution was in the air. The spirit of the American colonies was contagious. In 1789 there was a deficit of two hundred millions in the treasury. The people were distressed and resolved to limit the exactions of their rulers for money ; and when there was banqueting at the royal palace of Versailles, the mob rose up half savage, with cries for Bread ! Bread ! and battered with their axes at the queen's door. The gathering storm burst. A republic was pro- claimed; the ruthless Robespierre was at its head. Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette perished by the guillotine. The history of that wild Revolution is written in blood. In a few weeks 1285 persons were sent to the Guillotine, and none knew whose life was safe for a day. Then the monster Robespierre was slain. But though the people breathed freer, all was yet confusion and civil war. Then in 1795 came Bonaparte, with the Consulate and the Empire 1795 — 18 15. The splendor of Paris became greater than ever. More than twenty millions of dollars of public money were expended in making and embellishing public works. Then came his dis- astrous campaign in Russia in 1812, followed by de- feat at Leipsic, — his abdication at Fontainebleau, and the restoration of the Bourbon dynasty in the person of Louis XVIII. Then Waterloo and St. Helena! LA BELLE FRANCE 91 Louis XVIII. was reinstated, succeeded by Charles X. Both were brothers of Louis XVI. The second Revolution against the aggressions of monarchy occurred in 1830. The people again became masters of the situation; Charles X. a fugitive Louis Philippe of the House of Orleans, was made king from 1830 to 1848. As a citizen-king it was hoped he would regard the people's rights. The motto of the working classes was now Liberty, Equality, Frater T nity. They found too great the restrictions of the government. Again there was revolution, and a new Republic was formed, with Louis Napoleon its President. He seized the reins, set up the Second Empire, and flourished as Napoleon III, until he too received his check in the Franco-Prussian war in 1870. In 1 871 the third and present Republic! With such a baptism of fire, Liberty has made signal gains, and the people have grown wiser. Our business for the coming week was to view the most characteristic features of this magnificent historic city. For this no way is so easy and comfortable as riding with agreeable people in a landau with a qualified Conductor to direct the routes, to make all arrange- ments and explain the sights. This is learning made easy. This way we now adopted. It is quite another thing, and tests one's grit, to go alone among a people with whom one cannot exchange an idea, because of the complete barrier of foreign speech; it makes vivid to one's comprehension the confusion of tongues that must have existed at the tower of Babel. Yet if one can go alone unhurried — for solid study, 92 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS for seeing the life of the people, "all sorts and con- ditions of men," and for remembrance of what one has seen, give me the latter method every time. There is no royal road to knowledge. Probably the best is a combination of both. The first "conducted" excursion is rudimentary. It gives a general view of many things; often, because of the rapidity with which many images are cast upon .the brain, and the distraction of company, a vague and confused idea. It is very well as preparatory to the more deliberate and careful scrutiny of an un- distracted mind. Happily both these privileges have been mine. At different times I spent more than six weeks in the gay Parisian Capital; and revisited also London, Belgium, France and Italy, with a second flight through Switzerland. PARIS • is an immense city of 2,250,000 people. It lies on Doth sides of the winding river Seine, which is spanned by twenty-seven bridges. It covers twenty- eight and a half square miles. The north section has the larger population and more monuments of royal antiquity. The south is distinguished as the Latin quarter, having the University. Between them is the Island originally la Cite, the site of the ancient settlement of the Parish before the Christian Era. On this island is the magnificent and profoundly interesting Cathedral of Notre Dame; the traditions of its site reach back to the Roman occupation which LA BELLE FRANCE 93 continued 500 years. Sometime during that period it is believed there was a temple to Jupiter and Mer- cury upon this spot. We sallied forth for sight-seeing. We rode through boulevards lined with trees, the abounding and umbrageous horse-chestnut now in abundant bloom. These boulevards follow the circles of the old de- molished city walls, there being an Inner circle lined with splendid buildings on either side, and an Outer circle, beyond which the present city still extends. — The streets are paved with sandstone, and counting both sides of the street, there are 812 miles of foot pavement. The solidarity of the buildings which are of stone, and usually six and seven stories high im- pressed me ; the signs of devastating mobs, of broken monuments and ruined palaces, and rivers of blood are all gone; and in their stead smiling prosperity reigns. Indeed the recovery from revolution, con- vulsion, War and the Commune is wonderful. It illustrates the extraordinary thrift and rebound in the constitution of the French people. Then too, Nature smiles upon her child. Here May and June is a most delightful climate. Here is no atmosphere of brooding fog, as in London, but days and weeks together of blue heavens and radiant skies. I remember but one smart shower in the six glad weeks I lived in Paris ; then Dame Nature poured forth her bottles as if she meant business. In London on the contrary, Nature had wells in her eyes, and wept feebly almost every day, like a lachrymose maid. The Parisians have a genius for adornment. Not 94 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD tVORLD LANDS only are their women the best dressed women in the world, but their monuments are both numerous and splendid, their architecture tasteful and harmonious, their streets well paved and kept clean, with running water flowing through and cleansing the sides each , day, and their parks, gardens and cemeteries ex- tremely well ordered and beautiful. I scarcely saw a woman with a slatternly dress in even the poorer parts of the city. The material might be cheap but it was made to neatly fit the figure. Young women often wore no bonnet in the street and old women of the servant class a cap only, but it was spotlessly white; there were no skirts trailing in the dust. There were many young girls in purest white with white kid slippers, going to their first communion; they were a pretty sight; and yet one wonders sadly if it is not a Dress occasion with them, rather than a spiritual sacrament. I often saw regiments of soldiers wearing metal helmets and a very picturesque uniform. There were many peculiarities. The horses were driven three abreast. Open-worked iron frames pro- tected the tree trunks, affording moisture and air to the roots of the trees. Drivers of barouches wore as livery, white or black enameled hats. There were omnibus stations, where if you wished to take the 'bus, you must get a number, and enter in the order of the number till the coach was filled. The fares for seats within were 30 centimes (6 cents) and for seats on top, 15 centimes. The view was better here, but to perambulate the top and descend the LA BELLE FRANCE 95 steep stairs, with your hand encumbered with wrap, books and umbrella, while the horses were scurrying over the stone pavements, was a trying achievement to a woman of mature years, When paying your fare, it is permitted to take " a correspondence" gratis if you can not reach 3 r our destination without riding on another line of omnibusses. In taking a cab, it is necessary from custom to pay beside the legal tariff, pourboire, a gratuity of 25 or 30 centimes to the driver. CHAPTER VII. PEN -PICTURES OF PARIS. THE MADELEINE is the most chastely beautiful church in Paris. It is modeled after the Parthenon at Athens, and sur- rounded by a colonnade of fifty-two Corinthian col- umns, each forty feet high. It is 328 feet long, 138 feet wide, and 100 feet high; and is approached by a flight of twenty-eight steps extending the whole length of the facade. It occupies a most central position, fronting the wide Rue Royal. Its bronze doors, larger than those of Florence, or the Pantheon at Rome, are adorned with bas relievos. Within it consists of a vast nave, with piers fronted by lofty fluted Corinthian columns, with arches. Between the piers is an Ionic colonnade supporting a gallery. There are sculptures and paintings illustrating the formerly popular idea of the life of the Magdalen. It was commenced in 1764, and completed under Louis Philippe. I have seen it on the Sabbath thronged, and having a stately ceremonial. East of the edifice is a Flower market where sprightly French women on Tuesdays and Fridays sell beauties in bouquets or pots at very reasonable figures. The flower sale in Paris is immense. PEN-PICTURES OF PARIS 9? In the Place de la Concorde stands the magnificent OBELISK OF LUXOR which formerly stood before the great temple of Thebes, in ancient Egypt, where it was erected by Rameses II., the great Sesostris, 1550 years before Christ! Formed of red syenite, its face is covered with hieroglyphic inscriptions. Its height above the gray granite pedestal is 72 feet 3 inches, and it weighs 500,000 pounds. It was given by Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, it took three years to transport it to France, and it was set up here in 1836, the cost of removal and erection being $400,000. — The PLACE DE LA CONCORDE is also adorned with well executed marble groups and spouting fountains. It looks lovely and peaceful now, but in the dark revolutionary days it was stained with the blood of 2,800 persons violently put to death, The first to perish by the guillotine in 1793 was the good Louis XVI; — afterward Marie Antoinette, his wife; his sister Elizabeth; Charlotte Corday; and justly, Robes- pierre. When those wild days were thought to be over, its name was changed from the place of Revolution to the place of Concord. Yet so late as 1871, the can- non balls of the Communists who held the Tuilleries Garden east of this square, and of the Versaillese west of it flew furiously back and forth over it. The AVENUE DE CHAMPS ELYSEES. which leads thence to Place de l'Etoile is doubtless 98 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS the most thronged and fashionable in the world. It is a mile and a quarter long, and after two o'clock each afternoon, there is a constant stream of the "beau monde" in elegant turnouts, after rapid steeds, coursing up and down the street. On either side are leafy groves for some distance, with smooth walks for promenades, grassy plots, iron chairs to be hired for a few centimes, jugglers and juvenile shows; at night, lamps light up the green foliage and concerts or en- tertainments fill the scene with brilliancy and gay life. These charming shades, so central in the city, were once arable spots and meadows which the Queen Mother, Marie de Medicis directed to be planted with rows of trees. This was in 1616. She builded bet- ter than she knew for the far future. In the center stands a splendid and immense struct- ure built for the first universal Exposition in 1855, the Palace of Industry. It is now used for the annual exhibition of Modern Paintings and Sculptures each May and June. In 1892 I spent delightful hours among its pictures, and distinctly recall The boy in a blacksmith's shop about to strike the hot iron; The Dying Nun and child, — Monks carrying candles in tin candlesticks, — Three old women, which I thought wonderfully true; An old lady winding yarn; an artist painting a peasant boy and the villagers looking on; "The road to glory," where a soldier lies dead upon the turf and the troops march on and leave him; two poetically treated "Ideals" the one a blond, the other a brunette; — "The giddy whirl of Youth anri Fashion," little Cupids around, suggesting PEN-PICTURES OF PARIS 99 sentiment; Purple mountains and Country Lovers; A forest with very liquid water; a Fisher girl and Basket; a drove of sheep. — It has been observed that the majority of persons prefer the pictures that tell a story. No doubt; we are all more interested in life and its experiences than in anything else, especially till we have given study to the subtleties of High Art. It seems to me — though I cannot speak "ex cathe- dra" — that quite one-half the pleasure a picture gives is from its subject, and the feeling it stirs within us. Here I had the unexpected pleasure of coming sud- denly upon "ma cousine" and her Professor husband on their third European tour, and now from Spain and Africa, To meet thus in a city of two millions! how pleasant. Thereafter with their congenial tastes, and larger knowledge of painting and architecture, it was an added pleasure to make several excursions in their company. Passing up the Avenue Champs Elysees to the Place de l'Etoile at the summit of a rising ground we see the majestic ARCH OF TRIUMPH crowning it, which Napoleon I. caused to be erected to commemorate his triumphs. The stone structure is 160 feet high, 146 feet wide and 72 deep. Twice I climbed the 272 steps of the spiral stairway, and enjoyed the grand and extensive view from this height. Twelve fine avenues center here like spokes about a hub, or rays diverging from a star, the most world famous being the Champs Elysees, which leads 100 GOLDEN MEMORIES Of OLD WORLD LANDS to the Avenue du Bois de Bologne, which is 315 feet wide; where ocurred in my last visit the annual GRAND PRIZE RACES attended by a vast multitude. The prize is 100,000 francs. I am sorry to say this grand fete ocurred on the Sabbath which debarred my witnessing the scene, but seemed to make no difference with the gayety- loving Parisians. A short distance from the Arch of Triumph to the south-east, near the Seine, I visited the superb palace of the Trocadero. Formerly a convent garden where the palace now stands, it now contains relics and curios of historical interest. Near it is the Passy Cemetery. Lovers of Marie Bashkirtseff, the Russian writer and painter-artist, whose journal published after her death at 26, excited much interest as showing remarkable precocity, will find her grave here. It is a large and splendid mau- soleum near the entrance. Near an apartment I occupied in my third visit to Paris lives her mother, preserving her daughter's studio in the same manner as when she lived. From the Trocadero palace, where one loves to linger for the beautiful views from its pillared porti- coes at twilight — it is a short walk over Pont du Iena to the EXHIBITION GROUNDS and Eiffel tower the highest in the world, being 1000 feet. Standing below, it is interesting to see the little car like a living thing creep up the tower. PEN-PICTURES OF PARIS 101 Paris has been successful in conducting a universal exhibition of all nations so as to make it a profitable investment. But the French are prudent managers. Their central position and easy accessibility to the seas also gave them a great advantage. Cities other than Paris prior to Chicago have not found having the World's Fair a bonanza. If Chicago can make it pay, a city iooo miles from the Atlantic seaboard, and much more than two thousand miles from the Pacific, a city which 59 years ago numbered 200 souls — in a nation which dates back only to 1616 as its first actual settlement, it will be a most extraordinary achievement. THE CHURCH OF THE INVALIDES South of the Seine is crowned with a great gilded dome, which makes it one of the most conspicuous objects of Paris. It is a majestic edifice 138 feet square with two tiers of columns in front and the dome surmounting the center. Its extreme height is 323 feet. The interior is circular with branches of a Greek cross. The crypt which contains the tomb of Napoleon I. is in the center directly under the dome. The tomb is an immense monolith of porphyry covering the sarcophagus and is viewed from a parapet above. The whole expense of the monument and the transfer of the remains of Napoleon was $1,800,000. In ad- joining chapels are the tombs of his brothers, King Joseph of Spain, and King Jerome. Both of their sarcophagi are of black marble. Within a laurel 100 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS crown wrought in mosaic, on the pavement of the crypt are inscribed the names cf his victories: Rivoli, Pyramids, Marengo, Austerlitz, Iena, Friedland, Wagram, and Moskowa. That he was a military genius, and had wonderful force of character, is evident. By nature he was masterful. But his life was wholly self centered. He had a towering ambition; it was first of all for himself. The path he trod to the power he coveted was one in which he made uncounted thousands weep. From the battle field of Waterloo I have his picture; 'tis not a face to love. "How like a mountain devil in the heart Rules the inreined Ambition! Let it once But play the monarch, and it turns The heart to ashes." But he helped to make Paris splendid; and the brilliance of his achievements dazzled the French, who admire brilliancy, and so they have treated him as a hero. When things are weighed in the Heavenly scales many human judgments will be reversed. Still south of the Seine, by the fine Boulevard St. Germain, flanked with fine stone buildings, we ap- proach the quarter of the Odeon, and note the massive imposing church of St. Sulpice with the beautiful Fountain in front, and come to rising ground on whose summit is the stately pile of THE PANTHEON. How beautiful upon the portico, to which a flight of eleven steps conducts rise those six immense, fluted Corinthian columns! They are six feet in diameter PEN-PICTURES OF PARIS 103 and sixty feet in height. Then comes the inscription to this Hall of Fame, "Aux grands Hommes la Patria Reconnaissante." Above this frieze is a magnificent triangular pediment 129 feet in breadth on which is represented in bold relief France dispensing honors to the great men who have illustrated her. On her right hand are Fenelon, Malasherbes, Mirabeau, Voltaire, Rosseau, Lafayette, Carnot, Mongue, Manuel, and David the painter. On her left are French soldiers and Napoleon. Ere we enter let us remember this is one of the most ancient historic sites. King Clovis, the first of her kings built here a church to St. Peter and Paul in 496. A D. It became an Abbey, and here St. Genevieve who abounded in deeds of mercy was buried in 512. Thenceforward she was the patron saint of Paris. Madame Pompa- dour suggested the erection of this which was done in 1764. The plan of the building is that of the Greek cross. Its dome, 66 feet in diameter, is grand and beautiful, the effect being heightened by the peristyle of 32 corinthian columns. From the pavement to the top is 272 feet. Within, the pavement is of stone and marble. To visit the vaults in the under- croft, it is necessary to obtain an order from the authorities; there we saw the tombs of Voltaire and Rousseau, and others; and found an amazing echo in the center. The building has cost six millions of dollars since its foundation. Victor Hugo is buried here, Marat was removed from his tomb here and cast into a common sewer, and Mirabeau was depan- theonized, Royalty and Republicanism thus working 104 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS at cross purposes. The monument to sweet Gene- vieve I found in the church in the rear of the Pantheon, ST. ETIENNE DU MONT, a church dating back to 112 1. In one of its chapels is a gorgeous monument supposed to contain her re- mains. The church is worth visiting also for a view of the magnificent screen which separates the choir from the audience. It consists of an arch and two spiral stairways that twine about the columns. It is a favorite view with artists. I saw two young maidens depicting it on canvas. The pulpit by Lestoccard is supported by a figure of Sampson. Here Pascal the scientist and Racine the poet are interred. I was glad to visit the beautiful LUXEMBOURG PALACE Gardens and Museum several times. It is an ex- tensive place south of the Seine, full of varied attrac- tion. When the sun was hot, the cool recesses of its shady groves, and the splashing of Catherine de Med- ici's fountain were refreshing. The palace was built in the sixteenth century on the model of the Pitti Palace at Florence. Its history not less than its consummate beauty is interesting. Its name is from Duke de Luxembourg who purchased it in 1583. It was occupied by Louis XIII. Next it became a prison, then the Directory sat there; and under Bonaparte, the Consulate. In 1848 meetings of socialist workmen were held in it. In 1852 it be- PEN-PICTURES OF PARIS 105 came the residence of the prefect of the Seine; sub- sequently the place for the Senate meetings. The gardens, grove and orangery are extensive, beautified with flowers and marble statuary. Nine gates furnish access to. this most attractive spot. It appeared to be frequented by pupils of the University, multitudes of whom I saw enjoying its cooling shades and charming views. — Entering the Museum, there were most exquisite masterpieces of modern sculpture. I noted a lovely marble representing a young woman reclining, toying with the cherub, Cupid. Next were numerous rooms filled with fine paintings of modern, and chiefly living artists. Not before death are their works transferred to the Louvre. There was a picture of oxen by Rosa Bonheur, with her charac- teristic masterly conception and strong execution. There were several pictures of peasant life in Brittany by Jules Breton, studies from Messonier, small pictures by Millet, and a rural scene by Dupr<§3, Milking, of striking verisimilitude. Benjamin Con- stant is represented by a large picture; Marie Bash- kirtseff by a portrait of a young woman. Grand opportunities are these collections of the Louvre, the Luxembourg, free to the people, beside which are the pictures of the Salons —for the culture of the eye, and the training of the hand in High Art. Accordingly there are large numbers of students from England and America; yet there are counter influences, having perhaps an unconscious undermin- ing influence on character which should lead parents to consider well before sending their precious youth 106 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS to study in Paris. After crediting the French with some admirable traits; which one who dwelt among them defined as 'generosity, qaick sympathy,' — yet there prevails the idea of two standards of morality, one for women, another for men, out of which grows an atmosphere of moral death. It is ai awful hazard to send a mere youth into a society where such sentiments are afloat; it will test the moral calibre of a full grown man. Then, too, there is the prevailing taste of the French for the extreme Nude in Art. It is a question whether the acquisi- tion of the French technique will not be accompanied with a moral deterioration which will far out-balance all advantages gained. Where a young person is accompanied by a mother, or elder person, the danger may be lessened, but it is still a danger. It is not very far from the Luxembourg to the GOBELIN TAPESTRY WORKS still on the South side of the Seine. Jean Gobelin was a rich dyer in wool. Those who succeeded to his business enlarged it, making tapestry for hangr ings, and carpets. Here we saw very beautiful fabrics. Six square inches one workman makes in a day. It took eight years to make one nice piece about the size of a sheet. Two or three persons can work on one piece at one time. Some of the carpets require five to ten years for making and cost $12,- 000 to $30,000 dollars. These carpets are not sold but are destined for palaces in the state. Skilled as these workmen must be, they are paid only from 300 to 600 dollars a year. PEN-PICTURES OF PARIS 107 Another great attraction in the Latin quarter is HOTEL CLUNY. It is a Museum of antiquities; the building is an admirable representation of the fine mansions of Paris in the sixteenth century. It is built on the site of the palace Thermes, the residence of a Roman governor of Gaul, in the very early ages. Emperor Julian it is said occupied it in 360 A. D. Of the original edifice, there still remains the frigidarium, or place for cold baths. We descend by several steps to a vast hall, with vaulted ceiling 65 feet long by 45 broad, and 34 feet high. The wall is built of alternate rows of stone and brick. Within are ancient bathing tubs, and Gallo Roman sculptures, and remains of columns. Upon this site the Hotel of Cluny was begun by the abbot of Cluny in 1480. It was occupied by Mary, sister of Henry the VIII, King of England, the widow of Louis XII. Ascending by a fine staircase with the arms of Henry IV, (1589 — 1610J I was shown Mary's chamber, called "chambre de la Reine Blanche," from the custom of the queens of France to wear white mourning. Next it is a small but extraordinary chapel; it has a beautiful central pillar and ceiling; from it quaint winding stairs descend to the front garden, and court. Here James of Scot- land married Madaleine, daughter of Francis I. In another room I saw the carved bedstead of the same great Francis I. when he was Duke of Valois. I saw also eight Crowns of gold ornamented with sapphires 108 GOLDEN MEMORIES OE OLD WORLD LANDS and pearls found at La Fuente de Guarazar, near the capital of the Gothic Kings of Spain. Here is beautiful old Flemish tapestry; magnificent state carriages of the reign of Louis XIV, carved, gilded, elegantly painted. Three have springs, the most gorgeous is hung on straps. Here too are sedan chairs and sledges; one represents a dragon. Of exquisite and costly cabinet work, and carved furni- ture, all antique, there is a rich collection. The passage ways and grounds are interesting, and frequented by people of leisure and the young. Crossing a bridge to the Isle of la Cite, we approach not only the oldest part of Paris, but one of its pro- foundly interesting historic edifices, the CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME. "A poem of the earth and air, A mediaeval miracle of song. " From certain excavations, it is conjectured that in the old Roman period there were on its site temples to Jupiter and Mercury. As early as 365 A. D. a church to St. Stephen was here erected; rebuilt in 522 A. D. The corner stone of the present majestic structure was laid in 1 163. Its high altar was con- secrated in 1 1 82; its west front was finished in 1223; its choir-works in 1714. In shape the church is cruciform, with two lofty square towers, and spire surmounted with a gilt cross. Its height to the roof is 135 feet; its length 390, width at transepts 144 feet, height of towers 264 feet. Length of nave 225 feet, It will hold 21,000 persons. In style it is PEN-PICTURES OF PARIS 109 pure pointed, with vast flying buttresses. There are great rose windows with glass of the thirteenth century. It has a remarkably fine organ, 75 pillars, 37 chapels, a huge bell. In the Revolution of 1793 the cathedral was converted into a Temple of Reason. During the commune, it was a military depot. In 1 83 1 the populace broke into it and did great mischief. The Archbishop's palace in the rear was then de- spoiled; its site is now a promenade, with a beauti- ful gothic fountain 60 feet high. From this venerable ancient pile I passed to the M )rgue, a low building of gothic design on the ex- treme point of the island, beside the Seine. Here were two unknown dead; men apparently near 60 years of age, fine looking, with large and thoughtful brows. They were laid on slabs of black marble, behind a glass screen. If not claimed in three days, they are buried at public expense. A small proces- sion of twelve were walking in the street after a wagon containing a coffin. One woman next the wagon wore mourning weeds, and was weeping. Apparently she had found at the Morgue and re- claimed her dead; and was about to have the last sad ceremony at Notre Dame. When I cume back soon after, a hearse and mourners issued from the church doors. Passing the immense Hospital, Hotel Dieu, the most ancient in Paris, founded 660 A. D., I soon reached the immense structure PALAIS DE JUSTICE, which is also situated on the island, and is almost as 110 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS old as Place Thermes. In it lived the earlier kings of France. In 131 3 it was rebuilt, Adjoining it on the south, is the ancient and elegant SAINT CHAPELLE, built in 1248 for the reception of the Crown of Thorns, and a piece of the true Cross, by direction of Saint Louis. It consists of two churches, one immediately over the other, access from the lower to the upper being by a winding stairway in the tower. Egress from the upper is through a court of the Palais de Justice. The upper chapel has much beautiful stained glass of 1248. Saint Louis used to withdraw into a chamber called the Oratoire de Louis IX. to hear mass from a small window looking into the nave. — The undercroft was once a parochial chapel. In it is buried the poet Boileau. Its restoration cost $230,000. The height of St. Chapelle is 139 feet, length 118, breadth 55. It has a lofty and very slender graceful spire, richly gilt and 108 feet high. Crossing the bridge to the north, we soon come to the beautiful TOWER OF ST. JACQUES erected in i5o8-'22. . It is all that is left of the old church St. Jacques de la Boucherie, the church being demolished in 1789. It is in a square, tastefully laid out as a public garden. There I saw women with sewing, or child, or with their acquaintances; men also, seated in the shade. Under the Arch of the Tower is a fine statue of Blaise Pascal, who here performed philosophical experiments. — The top is PEN-PICTURES OF PARIS 111 reached by 310 steps. It is 187 feet high, a trying climb as I can testify. There is no balustrade to the circular stairs. None should attempt it who have not strength, nerve, and good sight, since a misstep might send one falling to the bottom. Some- times "absence of body is better than presence of mind," and in needless hazards it is well to ask, Will it pay? The tower is square with a turret; and is called "one of the purest relics of Gothic architecture extant." CHAPTER VIII. ETCHINGS OF PARIS. Other places of interest to which I was conveyed with our party, and afterward revisited for further inspection, were by way of the Grand Opera House, Porte St. Martin, Porte St. Denis, and the Boule- vards, the Monument de la Republique, to the site of the Bastile, the Column of July; past Roquette prison to Pere la Chaise Cemetery; Chaumont Buttes and park; Hotel de Ville, The Louvre, Gardens of the Tuilleries, Column Vendome, and thence to six o'clock dinner at our hotel which was served with seven courses and great state. In the evening we repaired to Palais Royal to see the glitter of Paris by gaslight. PALAIS ROYAL is a regal building, with shops on the other three sides filled with jewelry and articles of luxury, the whole enclosing a large space in the very heart of the city open to the light and air of heaven, being 700 feet long, and 300 feet" broad. It is planted with avenues of lime trees and two flower gardens, be- tween which a fountain plays in graceful jets. Here in the day I saw children sail their tiny boats, here young and old gather in groups, while gentlemen 113 ETCHINGS OF PARIS 113 regale themselves at the cafes which abound. With that eye to thrift which characterizes the nation, chairs are rented to frequenters which bring in a revenue to government of $7,600 dollars a year. Here in 1620 Cardinal Richelieu, Louis XIII's prime minister, built a palace. Ere dying he presented it to his king who made it his royal residence. Here lived Louis XIV. in his youth with his mother Anne of Austria; afterwards he gave it to his nephew the Duke of Orleans, whose debts accumulating till he became nearly insolvent, by advice built the shops to augment his revenue. Finished in 1786, they were a financial success. Seven years more, and the duke was executed, his palace confiscated. Lucien Bona- parte and Louis Philippe both lived in it. In 187 1 the Commune set it on lire. But it has been repaired, and is to-day the exemplification of brightness, beauty and splendor. The evening lights make it a scene of enchantment. The Grand Opera House is a magnificent architect- ural ornament. Thence by the inner circle of Boule- vards, which are w r ide and set out with trees, with splendid buildings on either side, we see the city at its best. These boulevards occupy the place of the old city wall pulled down after 1670, but are now in mid-Paris, PORTE ST. DENIS was at one of the old city gates. It is a Triumphal Arch elaborate and elegant, 72 feet high, to com- memorate the victories of Louis XIV. It cost $100,- 000. Bloody struggles took place around it in 1830 114 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS — 1848 — 1871. Near it stands Porte St. Martin. — Where Rue du Temple intersects the Boulevard, we see a square with fountains and white marble monu- ment. It is MONUMENT DE LA REPUBLIQUE. The crowning figure of a woman impersonates not Roy- alty, but what is better, the French people. The Roy- alists hating Democracy sneer at it and call it Mary Ann. But it is an expressive token of the nation's worthy progress. The Bastile was a prison for political offenders. It is all gone now, demolished in 1790. On the open square is erected the Column of July to the champions of popular liberty in 1830. A gallic cock is at the corner of the pedestal ; lions' mouths give light and air to the interior passage. On the fluted shaft, and Corinthian Capitol is a gilt globe, and on it stands the Genius of Liberty, a torch in its right hand, a broken chain in its left. It stands on one foot in the act of taking flight. The column is 154 feet high. Under it are buried the revolutionists of 1830 and 1848. Here the mob burned Louis Philippe's throne in 1848. PLACE DE LA ROQUETTE with its prisons, and associations of many executions here, and funeral paraphernalia in the shops is a gloomy spot. Leaving it we are soon at the entrance to one of the most interesting Cemeteries in the world, that of ETCHINGS OF PARIS 115 PERE-LA-CHAISE. It is beautifully situated, quite to the east of Paris, on the slope of a hill, looking toward the city. It de- rives its name from the Confessor of Louis IV. who was appointed superior of the house of the Jesuits here. After the suppression of that order it was made a cemetery, and the first interment was in 1804. It has 212 acres. The gateway bears the inscription in Latin: "He that believeth on me, though he were dead, yet shall he live again." It has 20,000 monuments. Of course a very central interest invests the graves of Heloise and Abelard. Their sad tale is too well known to require repetition here. "They loved not wisely but too well." They died respectively in 1164 and 1142. Their resting place is at the right of the principal entrance. The monument is a rectangular chapel of the Saxon style of the thirteenth century, formed of the ruins of the Abbey of the Paraclete of which Heloise was the first abbess. It is 24 feet in height. There exists a book purporting to be the love letters of this pair; its authenticity has been doubted. These letters are so true to human character in such circumstances that they might well be genuine; but whether so or not, they are worth reading from the knowledge they evince of the heart of man and woman. They are deeply pathetic. A great number of distinguished persons have been buried in this cemetery. Among the number whose graves I noted were the architect of the Louvre, 116 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Visconti — the Musical composer Rossini — the poet Alfred de Musset; Generals le Comte and Clement Thomas murdered by the Communists — Casimir Perier, a prime minister to whom a lofty decorated monument has been raised, the musicians Cherubini, Bellini, Chopin and Boieldieu; Bernardin St. Pierre, the author of Paul and Virginia; Manuel the orator, Beranger the poet; Moliere the dramatist — La Fontaine, poet and fabulist — Talma and the sculptor Pradier, Racine, Thiers and Marshal Ney. Balzac the novelist, opposite whose home I spent several weeks, Benjamin Constant the artist, the philosopher Cousin and the gifted Rachel, are all buried here, all "Only remembered by what they have done." We rode in boul. Belleville to Rue Secretan Market, where in 1 871 the Communists had a bloody engage- ment. Thence we came to the picturesque Buttes of CHAUMONT PARK. It is a very romantic locality east of mid-Paris. Nature has made a charming wild spot and Art has well improved it; a knack which the Parisians have of making the most of things. Here were old quar- ries and billy ground which a few years ago were the receptacle of the night-soil of Paris. Slaughter- houses for horses were also once here. All these objectionable associations have been removed, and the vision that now meets the eye is one of high grassy mounds and deep dells, shade trees and flowers, and in the center a crag entirely surrounded with water, crowned with a tasteful belvidere, fitly ETCHINGS OF PARIS 11" named the Temple of the Sibyl. It is a reproduction of that temple at the Tivoli, A stone bridge connects the adjacent hills with this precipitous rock on the one side; on the other a suspension bridge, supported by rustic piers spans the ravine toward the west. From this lately a young woman threw herself to instant death. In the valley is a high grotto studded with stalactytes and stalagmites which we enter. The circular railroad rushes through the Park and disap- pears by a tunnel in one of its hills. The clefts of the rock furnished in former times favorable hiding places for desperadoes, by whom it was infested. A great battle took place here May 13,. 1814. It was in 1 87 1 a stronghold of the Commune who planted their guns on these hills overlooking much of Paris. Of this there is now no sign. Among the graveled paths, and in these delightful shades the poor man finds enjoyment and the children bask. From the temple of the Sibyl I had a most impressive, grand view of the vast metropolis. Returning from one excursion I walked westward on Rue St. Antoine, an ancient street devoted to the business of cabinet making, full of men, women and children. I passed the Calvinist's church La Visita- tion erected 1.632. I shook the Protestant dame's hand who had the care of it, telling her I was an American and a Protestant; entered the massive and elegant but time stained church of St, Peter and St. Paul. Begun in 1627, Cardinal Richelieu performed the first mass here in the presence of Louis XIIL and his court. I saw the black marble slabs that testify 118 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LA\'DS that the hearts of Louis XIII. and Louis XIV. are here deposited. Rue St. Antoine leads into Rue Rivoli, and the change from the industrious poor to elegance is strikingly apparent. Here are no people poorly dressed, no children running in the streets, only fine houses, and fine carriages. Now looms up in vast proportions the new magnificent HOTEL DE V1LLE. It is ornamented with hundreds of statues and has two large annexes. The place surrounding has been the scene of many executions. Stake and scaffold were often erected here in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. East of it is the church of ST. GERVAIS inaugurated in 1420. Louis XIII. laid the first stone of the east front in 1616. It has three ranges of coupled columns, Doric, Ionic, Corinthian; the rest of the church is Gothic. Its tower is 130 feet high. In the chapel before the painting of St. Genevieve wiping away the tears of an afflicted woman, I saw a humble wedding. The bridal pair were young, the bride enveloped in a white illusion veil. Apparently her family, not over ten altogether were the only witnesses beside the priest who went through several performances of courtesying before a picture and kissing it. At last the young couple arm in arm proceeded to a room where they wrote their signa- tures, and went out to carriages. ETCHINGS OF PARIS 119 Here was buried the husband of Madame de Main- tenon. Near the Seine, east of the Louvre stands the church of ST GERMAIN L'AUXERROIS. It was first built in 998 on the site of one which the Normans destroyed in 886. The porch which has five Gothic arches was erected in 1437. Over the marble basin is a finely sculptured marble group of three children supporting a cross. St. Denis is said to have been first interred here. The bell of this church struck the signal for the Massacre of the Huguenots on St. Bartholemew's eve, Aug. 23, 1572 and tolled all through that awful night. THE LOUVRE with its vast collection of Masterpieces in Painting and Sculpture is world-famous, and is certainly one of the greatest attractions to Paris, to any lover of the beautiful, and especially to a connoisseur in Fine Art. It has 2,000 paintings on exhibition; and sim- ply to walk through its galleries without stopping re- quires two hours. Of course I visited it a number of times deliberately, after our first rapid introduction and then felt I had but begun to know it. The palace itself is a vast and magnificent one of stone. It is built on the site of a Castle which Da- gobert who was king of the Franks about 600 used as a hunting seat ; a forest then extending over North Paris down to the Seine. The forest was infested with wolves and because of this the castle or chateau 120 QOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LAUDS was called Lupara, (from lupus a wolf) and then Louverie. Philip Augustus improved or rebuilt it about 1 200. Francis I. caused the old walls to be removed and began the Louvre in 1541. The work was continued by Catherine de Medicis, Louis XIII. and XIV., by Napoleon I., and Napoleon III., and completed in 1857. The space enclosed by the Louvre and Tuilleries is said to be nearly 600 English acres. The east front with its colonnade of 28 coupled Corinthian columns is considered a masterpiece. On the ground floor is the Venus of Milo, the cele- brated statue found in 1820 by a peasant in the island of Milo, in the Grecian Archipelago. It was perhaps executed by a pupil of Scopas who wrougnt The Children of Niobe. It belongs to a transition school between Phidias and Praxitiles, and is characterized by a noble dignity. The Salon Carre has confessedly many of the supperbest gems of this almost priceless collection of paintings. Here are The Immaculate Conception by Murillo; Raphael's Holy Family and several other of his works, Paul Veronese's rich and glowing banquet scenes; Leonardo da Vincis' portrait of Mona Lisa, probably a Florentine lady, which he was four years in painting. Here too the famous Vandyck's portrait of Charles I. French Art is finely represented in the Louvre by Prud'hon the French Correggio, in several impressive pictures, — by Poussin's St. Xavier reviving a young girl — by Greuze's Paternal Malediction and Punished Son — by David's Sabine Women, by Guerin's Hip- ETCHINGS OF PARtS 121 polytus and Phaedra, by Girodet's Atala borne to her tomb, by Vernet's Marine views, by Lebrun, and others. Italian Art, facile primus is here nobly represented by the saintly Fra Angelico, Fra Pillippo Lippi, Domenichino, Perugino; by her grandest masters, da Vinci, Raphael, Titian; by Paul Veronese in majes- tic renderings of scripture scenes and characters, by Luini in Jesus asleep, and several frescoes — by Cor- reggio in the Mystic Marriage of St. Catherine, and Antiope Slumbering, by Guido Reni, Salvator Rosa, and Del Sarto. The Spanish school has fewer names, but the glorius ones of Murillo and Velasquez. To see Murillo's paintings is to admire them. The Flemish Painters are many and world famous; the prolific Rubens, masterly and pleasing as prolific — Memling whose perfectness in detail suggests he must have worked with a microscope before his eyes, — Vandyck, Matsys, Teniers, all may be studied in the Louvre. The Dutch School of artists is here represented, though for their finer paintings one must visit the galleries of Amsterdam and the Hague; Rembrandt; Jan Steen, Van Ostade, Gerard Dou, a trio who give us the poetic in the commonplace; Paul Potter, Holbein the younger, Cuyp and Ary Scheffer, who wrought that charming portraiture of Augustine and his mother. Within our limits it is impossible to speak adequately of these who had left behind them glowing on the canvas imperishable forms of the beautiful, the grand, the poetic. Nor do we 122 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS claim to sit' upon the woolsack in matters of art, where even the judgments of acknowledged artists differ, the one condemning what the other approves. But I would not pass by objects which made a deep and delightful impression on my memory without note, hoping they will aid the study of some who come after me. The Bible and Religion have furnished a great number of subjects of pictorial representation. Among antiques and curios in the Gallery d'Pollon I noted the sword of Napoleon presented to him on the day of his marriage to Josephine; the crown of Charlemagne; crown of Louis XIV. Artists were engaged in the picture galleries copy- ing the finer scenes. From one of my rides I returned b TT the Place and handsome COLUMN OF VENDOME. The site was once owned by the natural son of Henry IV. and Gabrielle d'Estres. It is the center of a large paved space, built around with elegant houses. A statue of Louis XIV. was erected in the center but demolished in the revolution of 17.92. Napoleon Bonaparte had the Column Vendome erected to commemorate his. victories in 1805. Thrown down by the Communists as lately as 1871, it was reconstructed with the old fragments. It is a stately column 135 feet in height, built in imitation of the pillar of Trajan at Rome, only on a larger scale. It is crowned with a statue of Napoleon arrayed as a Caesar. The bronze is from guns taken from the enemy. ETCHINGS OF PARIS 123 A GREEK WEDDING. "There is to be a high-life wedding at the Russian Greek church to-day," said my hostess, herself a native of St. Petersburg, to me this summer. "You ought to go to it." I went; and this is its story. The church was near, on Rue de la Croix, which is in west Paris, and had been recently built, (1861) by rich families from St. Petersburg who worship after the Greek form. The church is a glittering jewel. It has five turrets each topped with cones surmounted with the Greek cross and resplendent and gorgeous with gilt. The porch is a small cupola. The interior circular, with rich decorations. Beyond the altar, and ascended by a few steps is a room called the Holy Place, in which women are not per- mitted to go. Ordinarily there are no seats; but at the marriage, a row of chairs, in a sort of semi-circle were placed toward the front for the immediate friends of the contracting parties. — The hour was 2 p. M. Numbers had come in to witness the ceremonies, and lined the room and filled the rear. Many ladies in rich silks and lace, with long trains, swept for- ward to the seats. An elderly lady to whom all paid court sat in front. Candles were burning in the Holy Place, whose doors were thrown open. Suddenly a burst of vocal music from rich voices of unseen singers, and the bridal pair strode to the altar. The bride was small, young and dark haired; she wore a heavy white satin dress with train, white kid gloves, and white kid slippers, a tiny hat, and an enveloping cloud of illusion which floated over her 124 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS gracefully. The bridegroom was in regulation black, bald headed, and apparently a Frenchman of forty. He looked quite the "man of the world." Immedi- ately on their arrival two Greek priests appeared, enveloped in robes of purple velvet, heavily embroid- ered with gold. First the bridal pair wrote their signatures to some paper, the joyous music going on meanwhile. Then the priests turned their backs upon the pair and the audience, and intoned the reading, the choir making frequent and spirited re- sponses in song. Then the chief priest turned to the pair and gave them the sacrament ; to each he gave a white bouquet and lighted candle to hold. Again he recited and the unseen choir made response. Then two jeweled crowns were brought, and presented to each to kiss, and placed over each of their heads where they were held suspended by two gentlemen behind. Then he took the hand of each in his, and marched them two or three times around the altar. Resuming their places, the crowns were again pre- sented them to touch or kiss. Then they kissed the book. This concluded the marriage; and the priest retired to the Holy Place, the pair following to the vases of holy water which each took and sprinkled their respective selves with. Descending they were immediately saluted by the father of the bride. She kissed him on both cheeks, and putting both arms about his neck clung to him as if oblivious of aught but the solemnities of the important event. Then the groom kissed her on both cheeks and mouth. Then she turned toward her friends, and the congratula- ETCHINGS OF PARIS 125 tions began. The pair then swept out in state to the array of fine carriages, accompanied by their friends, and drove away. The ceremony occupied nearly an hour. The interest which Paris excites did not wane in my later visits. Day after day I made some excursions, sailed down the Seine, attended the McCall meetings, sought out a score and a half of churches, each with a separate history and attraction, wandered in the sequestered avenues of her cities of the dead — *Mont- martre, Mont Parnasse — roamed through lovely Mon- ceau Park, and loitered on the river bridge, looking at the strange spectacle of the wash houses of the Seine ; and attended some delightful receptions at a choice American home in Paris. Each deserve recital, but present limits forbid. CHAPTER IX. ENVIRONS OF PARIS. It was a brilliant cavalcade of six chariots and twice six fine steeds that swept through the Champs Elysees into the Bois de Bologne, one mild morning in May, conveying our party to some of the famous environs of Paris. Our course lay through a picturesque forest, now the world-famous, fashionable driveway, in sight of the charming cascade de Longchamps to Saint Cloud across the river Seine, two leagues from Paris. The name is a contraction of St. Clodoald, a grandson of Clovis, who lived a hermit in this wood many hun- dred years ago. Leaving our landaus and climbing a steep acclivity we entered the Royal forest. Here are chestnut, lime and other grand old trees, and fountains issuing from urns. The Chateau, built by a wealthy citizen in i 572 was purchased and improved by Louis XIV. Louis XVI. secured it for Marie Antoinette, and Napoleon III. made it his chief sum- mer residence. In the Franco-Prussian War of 1870 it was devastated by the French shells thrown at the Germans, the French being unwilling its treasure of art and beauty should fall into their hands. The palace is now a silent, sad, beautiful ruin. Pedes- 126 ENVIRONS OF PARIS 127 tals remain in the near precincts once crowned with statues or flowers; they emphasize the present melancholy spectacle, amidst its wilderness of beauty. "I felt like one who treads alone Some banquet hall deserted, Whose lights are fled, whose garlands dead, And all but he departed." Thence we rode to the beautiful Villa LE GRAND TRIANON built by Louis XIV. for Madame de Maintenon. It was a favorite residence of Louis XIV. and Louis XV, and Louis XVI. It consists of one story and two wings in the shape of a horseshoe. Here we saw the royal bedroom, with the Empress Josephine's bed. Two rooms with a sumptuous bedroom were fitted up for Queen Victoria on the occasion of her visit to Louis Philippe, but she showed her disap- proval of marital infidelity by refusing to occupy the former residence of Madame de Maintenon. Near by we saw the gilt and decorated state carriages of Charles X. and Napoleon; and after lunch resuming our carriages, we drove to the vast and costly palace of VERSAILLES. Ten miles from Paris it stands on a sightly eminence commanding a fine view, and its magnitude may be imagined from the fact that when the court inhabited it. 3000 persons lodged in it. From its central part an immense wing stretches to the north and another to the south; on the east front a very extensive court 128 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS slopes away from the palace; the west fronts a charming prospect of a lawn, and garden laid out with elaborate ornamentation and precision, and with fountains that are a marvel of classic elegance. Peasants for denying water to the goddess Latona are represented as metamorphosed into frogs, from whose mouths issue streams. — A city of sixty-one thousand people has grown up around it. It is so near a suburb of Paris, that it has shared intimately with the history and fortunes of that city. The palace was mainly the thought of the busy brain of Louis XIV. It was completed by the best skill of his and later times and cost two hundred mil- lions of dollars! In 1681 he established himself and all his royal court there and excepting a trifling period of seven years, it continued to be occupied by Royalty till 1 789. Then a revolutionary mob assaulted and devastated it. Napoleon Bonaparte would have occupied it, but found it would cost ten million dol- lars to restore it. It was subsequently repaired by Louis XVIII, at a cost of one million two hundred thousand dollars, and again by Louis Philippe who expended three million dollars upon it, and converted it into a great and splendid historical gallery. A por- tion of its suites of apartments have been made the seat of the French government. Here poor Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette whose heads were afterwards cut off, were married with remarkable ceremonies. In one of the galleries -a ball was given by Emperor Napoleon III. in 1855, in which the magnificent room was lit by 3,000 wax ENVIRONS OF PARIS 129 candles and forty-two chandeliers, and Queen Victoria waltzed with the Emperor. — I saw the bedroom of Marie Antoinette, previously occupied by Maria Theresa, the wife of Louis XIV., and Marie Leczinska, a wife of Louis XV. I saw also Marie Antoinette's boudoir, library and private apartments, her table, step-ladder, dressing-room; the royal bedchamber of Louis XIV, said to be the gem of the palace. Here is the bed on which he died; twelve years his valet was in constructing it. It is a long walk through the picture gallery, with its portraits and battle scenes, which were by some of the best artists of their time. There is the "embarrassment of riches" that palls upon the sense. Under a splendid chandelier I paused; here stood Emperor William I, when saluted Em- peror of all Germany! — We closed the day's ex- pedition by a long ride, and an inspection of the SEVRES PORCELAIN FACTORY. The magasins or show-rooms, contain table and tea services, statuettes, vases, paintings on porcelain, stained glass of wonderful beauty and corresponding price. I was most interested in the laboratory. We were shown lumps of superior white clay which had already been prepared and ground. It was then placed on whirling tables. Into the lump the potter intro- duced his hand, moulding it at will. There are several processes — the putting on handles, the picking out flaws, the work of the painter, the baking. It is baked twice or three times. The Sevres workman- 130 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS ship is very superior. I saw the making of a delicate china teacup ready for the baking process. I noted a single teacup and saucer of exquisite pattern worth twelve dollars; teasets worth $65; vases valued at thousands of dollars. A statue is erected to the memory of the originator Palissy> whose life in the discovery of his beautiful Art was a most dramatic struggle. When last in Paris, with my cousin and the Professor I made an excursion to the celebrated ABBEY CHURCH OF ST. DENIS. We rode by omnibus and train five miles from Paris to the suburb of St. Denis. Inasmuch as most of the kings of France are buried in it, it is a church of extraordinary interest; its crypt has also great antiquity, having been begun in the eighth century by Pepin the father of Charlemagne for an abbey founded by King Dagobert I. in 613 A. D. on the site of a chapel built in honor of St. Denis, 250 A. D. This goes back to remote ages. We found it a massive and venerable looking edi- fice; like most cathedrals it was cruciform and had an imposing facade with rose window and a south tower whose topmost turret was 190 feet from the ground. Its dimensions are — length 355 feet, breadth 121, height 85 feet. The Nave and choir have clustered columns and effective stained glass clerestory windows. Within the building floats the sacred banner of France, the oriflamme. "Here," says Sted- man, "Charlemagne was anointed; Abelard dwelt; Joan of Arc hung up her arms; Henri I. abjured ENVIRONS OF PARIS 131 Protestantism; and Napoleon I, was married to Marie Louise." O, could these walls speak, what tales of history they might tell! In the choir entrance is an interesting monument to Dagobert and his queen Nathilde. His period was 630 A. D. The monu- ment shows the work of the twelfth century. In the north transept is a magnificent white marble monu- ment of Louis XII. and his queen. The design is highly elaborate, and includes figures of the twelve apostles. Above the cornice are the kneeling marble statues of Louis and Anne. Near by is a monument to Henry II. and Catherine de Medicis whose effigies repose upon a marble couch. In the south transept is a superb memorial to Francis I. and Claude his wife. He was a conspicu- ous figure, contemporary with Henry VIII. of England and with the Emperor Charles V. of Spain who was grandson of Ferdinand and Isabella, Fluted colums support an entablature above which are five kneeling white marble statues of Francis and his family. From the Chapelle Expiatoire, now a beautiful chapel-garden near the Madeleine where Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette were first interred, they were transferred with great pomp- after the Restoration to St. Denis. Here in the undercroft we saw their tombs. After the fatal block and the dripping knife of the executioner, they rest in peace and honor with Louis XVIII. and others of the Bourbon dynasty. Peering through a dim aperture we saw in a closed compartment three tombs in which are interred the bones of the kings from Dagobert in 630, to Louis 132 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS XV., 1774, which had been dug up by the revolu- tionary mob of 1789 and thrown into common trenches, a time of such fury that the costly and noble chlirch itself came near being destroyed. What a Comment on the uncertainty of worldly honor and the fickleness of human fame it all is! "Mortality! behold and fear! What a change of flesh is here! Think how many royal bones Sleep within this heap of stones. Here they lie, had realms and lands, Who now want strength to raise their hands!" "Oh why should the spirit of mortal be proud?" The time was near at hand when I must leave brilliant and interesting Paris. One more all day's excursion I took with the Professor and his wife to THE PALACE OF FONTAINEBLEAU. It is two hours ride by rail, the Lyons line, south to the station whence an omnibus conveyed us to the magnificent chateau and forest. The name Fon- tainebleau is a contraction of Fountain belle Eau and refers to a spring of water there which the huntsmen early found delicious. We entered from a door below the Horse-shoe staircase, and by a pleasant French guide were shown first the Chapelle de la Trinite. This was erected by Saint Louis. The chateau as it exists to-day was mainly built by Francis I. whose favorite residence it became. Here Louis XIII. was born. Here Louis XIV. signed the revocation of the edict of Nantes, here the divorce of Josephine was pronounced in 1809, ENVIRONS OF PARIS 133 here Napoleon resided with Marie Louise, here for eighteen months Pope Pius VII. was imprisoned, and here Napoleon abdicated the Empire, 1814. Very interesting are the private apartments of such a mighty personality, such a born leader as Napo- leon I. We were shown through them, one of us sat upon his couch, and we saw the table where he signed the fateful document resigning royalty. We saw also the boudoir of Marie Antoinette and Empress Eugenie, and the windows whose fastenings were made by Louis XVI an adept in mechanical arts. I fear a good artizan was spoiled in making him a poor king We saw the elegant bedchamber and silken hangings presented to Queen Marie Antoinette by the city of Lyons. The bed was successively occu- pied by her, and by Marie Louise, and Eugenie. There was splendid Gobelin tapestry in the Queen Dowager's rooms. In the long gallery of Diana we saw the coat of mail worn by Monaldeschi when as- sassinated. From the sumptuous Galerie des Fetes, built by Henry II. to please Diana of Poitiers, we entered Madame Maintenon's four apartments, very handsomely furnished, and where Louis XIV. signed the revocation of the Edict, an impolitic measure on his part, by which France lost a half million of her most useful subjects, who sought that toleration else- where which they could not find at home. A fine sheet of water and pavilion face one of the courts. The forest is fifty miles around with many interesting drives amid varied scenery, it lying near the course of the Seine. We saw nothing of the 134 FOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS "spectral black horseman" who was said to haunt the forest, and to have appeared to Henri IV. before his assassination. As to the French people of to-day, the Parisians impress me as social, but not domestic, as specially fond of festivity, brightness, display, amusement, as loving the glitter and parade of life, a child-like sur- face existence which whets the intellect without en- tendering the heart. They have a superior sense of physical beauty; the} 7 adorn with skill. They are a remarkably well dressed people without being extravagantly dressed. They are excellent economists; good managers; have social tact, and wonderful elasticity of spirits. Yet it seemed to me their polite manners were the thin varnish of good breeding rather than the natural expression of a really kind heart. No doubt further acquaintance would show many honorable exceptions. Their notions of the Sabbath are very different from the Puritan training of New England. After the morning service, holiday pleasures are deemed in or- der. I saw work on street-improvements going on Sabbath, the same as on week days. The prevailing influences of France are secular. Families occupy suites in immense houses rather than the independent cottage system. This favors publicity and lessens the home sentiments A large family is deplored by the French as a misfortune. The service at the Catholic churches is largely a spectacular affair, an imposing ritual to impress the senses; far too much a form without spiritual power, ENVIRONS OF PARIS 135 The decorum of the people during public worship is commendable. The Protestant churches and the McCall Mission seem to me to be doing an excellent real gospel work. The American church, Rue de Berri,is fortunate in having in Dr. and Mrs. Thurber a pastor and his companion, indefatigable in effort, admirably adapted to interest and profit all who come in contact with them. They have a large con- gregation of English speaking people and are warmly appreciated. The last century of French national history, not- withstanding its savage conflicts and rivers of blood, has resulted in the acceptance of juster ideas, and progress in self-government. There has been "a survival of the fittest," Now, it greatly needs higher moral standards, and spiritual quickening. To this end, pecuniary aid to the "Missions populaire" which extend over France is worthily bestowed; and, since to those who have chosen the noble watchwords, Liberty! Equality! Fraternity! the United States seems the most successful republic, let us save our American Union from misrule, drunkenness and god- lessness, for the sake of France. Save America for the sake of the world ! O how much there is to live for in such times as these! How the intelligent Christian's work stretches out on all lines! CHAPTER X. SOUTHERN FRANCE AND THE RIVIERA. Sighing farewell to fascinating Paris, we birds of passage to the sunny Southland took our flight, through a country of green meadows, woods and ter- raced hills, passing villages of peasant one-story stone or cement houses with tiled roofs; here a castle ruin; there a French country house; yonder the long forest of Fontainebleau. Our compartments being reserved, (first-class), for our party, we had no other companions save once, when a Frenchman wearing a badge, who may have been a gentleman of distinction, was admitted because the other cars were full. We reached LYONS, the seat of silk manufactures, 318 miles, in time for evening dinner, stepping at Hotel d'Angleterre. It is at the junction of Saone and Rhone rivers, with bluffs on the west; a city of 380,000 inhabitants. Wine was free, and plentiful at dinner. Imitating the safe example of our former chief magistrate Grant, in his trip round the world, I made a practice of turning my wine glass upside down, through our tour. In front of our hotel was a park with a colossal 136 SOUTHERN FRANCE AND THE REVIERA IS? statue inscribed, "To the Glory of the Republic." The night was dark and rainy and we had an evening of song within. Two years later, I stopped at the same hotel, and took an early morning ramble. On a wide plaza, a few coster women were arranging their vege- table market of artichokes, spinach, etc. One short, plump-bodied woman, in peasant jacket, and very short skirt had a jolly moon-face worthy an artist's canvas. We rode through fields of verdant grain, pe .ch and almond trees in bloom and a country growing in picturesque beauty and historic interest as we approached the Mediterranean. We saw Avignon, an ancient city, the Avenio of the Romans, where seven popes dwelt, and Petrarch was a guest, and the noblest of the Romans, Rienzi, was bound in the palace dungeons; Aries, a Roman town with vener- able remains of great antiquity visible from the train. Nearing Marseilles we pass through a tunnel three miles long, and discover huge masses of bald, precip- itous lime-rock forming a background and natural bulwark to this important maritime city of 365,000 inhabitants, (212 miles from Lyons.) As Massilia it was founded by the Greeks or Phoenicians 600 years B. C. It defeated the Carthagenians, was in turn conquered by Caesar, and in 1481 became a part of France. Now we behold the historic sea, the beau- tiful, blue Mediterranean; and are soon comfortably settled in the immense Grand Hotel de Marseille. It is on the broad Cannibiere which the Marseillaise consider the finest street in the world. Next day we ride through it to St, Ferrell, the principal street for 138 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS shopping; at one end a triumphal arch built by Napoleon; at the other a monument fifty feet high. Thence we enter the Prado, a wide fine street, with three roadways for carriages, and four walks for pedestrians. Here were handsome residences amid masses of green shrubbery. Saw the chief distillery, barracks for mounted police, two-w T heeled carts, draught horses with queer pointed collars. The Cha- teau Borelli is in the Flower park, and once a year occurs the Battle of Flowers, when as carriages go past, they are pelted and filled with bloom. Here were beds of glorious hyacinth, crocus, tulips, pansies, and very brilliant blossoms. We now rode along the finely built quay, next the placid surface of the Med- iterranean which was tinted with green and purple and blue. On yon sightly eminence stands the beautiful chateau of Mr. Talbot, a large owner of ships. In the broad harbor is Frioul rock, the place of quarantine; we saw the rock associated with Monte Christo, the novel by Dumas; a fort of 1814; the chateau, which was Empress Eugenie's, which crowns a bluff. After Napoleon Ill's "defeat by the Prussians her right to it was denied by government, She contested the case in the courts and won it, and then presented it to the French people. It is now a hospital. On the quay is the church of St. Victor, the oldest in Marseilles, built 40 years before Christ, as a temple of Minerva! Its crypts are probably un- changed. In the old harbor only sailing vessels are allowed and it is a forest of masts. The harbor is one of the best in France, and Marseilles is its greatest SOUTHERN FRANCE AND THE RIVIERA 139 maritime city. The old city lies near the wharf. We visited the ancient musty cathedral built on the ruins of a temple of Diana, and the new Byzantine Cathedral hard by, which will soon supersede the old. It is of gray stone striped with freestone, with marble and malachite Corinthian columns, and mosaic pave- ment; and combines the Byzantine, Moresque and Roman styles. We continued to the new harbor where are steam- ships; rode on a new street whose buildings, seven stories high, are all built on piles. I have twice visited Marseilles, in 1890, and in '92. In the first visit we ascended in landaus nearly to the summit of the lofty peak on which is the sightly church, of Notre Dame de la Garde, Our Mother of the Guardianship. A statue twenty-five feet high surmounts it representing Mary. It is a most breezy point and commands a splendid view. How well I remember an inlet of the Mediterranean there seen so "deeply, darkly, beautifully blue!" and how the long white lines of surf came rolling in, at another point. In railway carriages we rode to Nice J40 miles. It was the time of roses, and the city seemed a lovely blooming garden. It too has a Notre Dame church which we saw being trimmed for a funeral. Again we enjoyed a lovely drive along the beautiful new quay beside the peaceful Mediterranean; and wound round and up to the Chateau or Castle Hill 320 feet high. Here alighting we climbed to the summit en- closed in a railing, from whose sides we looked down on water, falling from a great natural spring on the 140 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS height, in cascades. There we had a magnificent panoramic view, one of the most transporting in the world — of city, country, sea. Thence we wandered through a cemetery midway in the rear of Castle Hill and saw a monument to Garibaldi who was born in Nice June 22, 1807. Here in a studio I formed acquaintance with three delightful Massachusetts tourists, the lady principal and Greek Professor of Bradford Academy and Miss N. of Haverhill. To meet people of congenial tastes and winsome manners is always pleasant; especially so when you are far from the loving and the loved at home. Nowhere did I have such charming rooms as at Hotel Isle Britannique in Nice. They were in per- fect accord with the other attractions of this popular health-resort. Nice has seventy thousand people. Thence we took the glorious CORNICHE DRIVE of nineteen miles from Nice to Monte Carlo in the principality of Monaco on the coast of the Mediter- ranean. It has been justly termed the most magnifi- cent in Europe. There alternated mountainous heights, green valleys, distant promontory, Roman fort, blue waters of a vast embracing sea, and over all the brightness of a perfect day in May. The snowcapt summits of the Maratime Alps appeared like gods at the feast ; the hills and dells were emerald, the shore was gemmed with towns and villages; over garden walls hung luscious roses; beauty, majesty, SOUTHERN FRANCE AND THE RIVIERA 141 glory everywhere, It was a day's ride never to be forgotten. On Turbia's height, which a romantic pair chose for the spot of their bridal, we found an encampment of soldiers. Here we lunched, and turning a half circle near Mentone we descended by rapid stages, along the seacoast to the great gambling den of Europe, MONTE CARLO. The Casino is a palatial building in an exquisite semi- tropic garden ; whence we looked up to the heights of Turbia and downward to the smiling sea. Enter- ing the gambling house, we saw several large rooms where finely dressed ladies and gentlemen sat arcund large tables, betting on the chances of the game. At one table nothing less than gold was staked. Every few moments the game was up, and the gold was raked into the winner's hands. As some won, others, though they made no sign, must have lost. At the gold tables, cards were shuffled and distributed. At other tables, a marble went whirling round a circle and landed in a niche. The ladies were most ele- gantly attired; the men had brains, though gambling is a fool's use of them. A gorgeous opera-house is contiguous to the Casino, and exquisite music was rendered in the out door belvidere. Said Miss N. whom I met again in Pisa, "The cor- niche drive was so beautiful, we asked ourselves, 'Had we died — and gone to heaven?' And when we stood in the Casino, and saw the heartless gambling going on, and learned of the suicides that take place there — 142 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS and yet the game proceeds — we asked ourselves, 'Have we died — and gone — to— hell?'" Along this coast were endless groves of gray sage- green olive trees; in the gardens grew palms, oranges, lemons, loquats, while orange blossoms perfumed the air, and innumerable roses festooned and blushed along the walls. Taking train at Monte Carlo, we rushed through tunnels to the border line of Italy, passed the custom house inspection at Ventimiglia, and passed the night at Bordighera, where one of our conductors, the agreeable Senor Daziano has a hotel; conducted in his absence by his family. Situated on the mount- ain side it commands a handsome view of its own leafy garden, and grove, and the sea beyond. In this sunny sheltered spot grow abundantly olives, figs, citrons, loquats, oranges, and lemons, and palms in such profusion that they are exported to Rome for church festivals. Bordighera from its climate and beauty is a favorite resort of invalids. Now I am in sunny Italy, the land of my girlhood fancies, when I dreampt to write books, and see Rome;- the land immortalized by Virgil and Dante, and made illustrious by Michael Angelo, Raphael, Titian, Correggio, Guido, Carlo Dolci, and da Vinci; the land of great Caesar, and Marcus Aurelius, as well as alas! of fierce Borgia; the home of Corinne; the land of a sensitive and poetic race. With Rogers I am moved to exclaim, "O Italy how beautiful thou art!" SOUTHERN FRANCE AND THE RIVIERA 143 Next morning, my first introduction to an Italian, was by a few words with a Piedmontese woman; who from her basket handed me three sweet roses, her free gift. How sweet it was in her! From Bordig- hera we went by railway along the coast 106 miles from Mentone to Genoa, the Superb. Our fine views were often suddenly interrupted by dashing into a tunnel. Sixteen miles west of Genoa, we pass Cogoleto, the supposed birth-place of him who made two worlds where one had been before, Christopher Columbus. On the house where he was born is inscribed Hospes, siste gradum. Fuit hie lux prima Columbo. Orbe viro Majori heu nimis arcta domus! Unus erat mundus. 'Duo sunt' ait ille, Fuere. He was the son of a weaver, and himself had worked at that art. But there was something within him, which rose above his humble origin. Near the station at Genoa we saw a large and beautiful white marble statue in honor of the Discov- erer. He is represented as resting on an anchor with America kneeling at his feet. We spent three days in the fine old city of palaces. From the sea penetrating the land in the shape of a knee, genu, she is called Genoa, or in the Italian Genova, in the French Genes. Genoa has always been the maritime and commercial city of the Riviera, and long was the center of a republic. Pisa was her rival, but she conquered it; in turn she was humili- ated by Venice; and by France was annexed to the kingdom of Sardinia. She has a beautiful situation 144 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LAlDS with a great number of Renaissance palaces. So high and so immense are many of her buildings that the intervening streets are many of them very narrow and dark. In such apartments live the petty shop- keepers and the poor. "My people," said our Con- ductor, Daziano, "are social and with the approach of twilight they swarm out of their dark rooms upon the sidewalks and the streets, where their social life is maintained," while they find the air and light and cheer with which their dwellings are scantily supplied. On Sabbath I attended worship at the Jesuit church of St. Ambrose, founded by Genoese nobles and showily decorated in the sixteenth century. Tradition states that Columbus attended church here. In accordance with the custom of the Romish worship to place its dependence on the impressiveness of its gorgeous ceremonial, there was fine organ music, followed by a procession of small boys carrying the cross, and tall candles, and priests bearing the Host supported by four gilt staves through the church. On a week day I visited the Cathedral of San Lor- enzo, the martyred St. Lawrence, built in iioo, with alternate stripes of black and white marble. It presents three different styles of architecture, tne French-Gothic, Romanesque, and the Renaissance. Thence we inspected the sumptuous Capuchin church of the Annunciation, erected 1587. Its portal is. sup- ported by marble columns, it is cruciform, has a frescoed dome, and rich gilding within.. Of palaces which are numerous in Genoa, we visited the Ducal — the Doria palace and garden — del Muni- ^J SOUTHERN FRANCE AND THE RIVIERA 145 cipio — Brignole Sale — Balbi, and Durazzo; the latter has a superb staircase. The Doria palace was presented to Andrea Doria in 1522. He was an Ad- miral of the Emperor Charles V. and conserved its honorable peace, and was considered the Father of his country. It is very beautiful. In the Piazza Rosso, or Brignole Sale is a valuable picture gallery. Here I noted Van Dyck's Marchesa Brignole-Sale, Guido's St. Sebastian, Guercino's Cleopatra and the Asp, — and the Tribute-money. We were taken through the very beautiful apartments of King Hum. bert's royal palace. The king is the worthy son of Victor Emanuel, and the nation is prospering under his reign. When driving on Mount Janiculus in Rome, a few months ago, I met his amiable queen Margar- hita, who is called the most beautiful queen in Europe. They have an only child, a son. Genoa has extensive water works. She is indeed a great city of 180,000 inhabitants, built around her semicircular bay. Midway up the heights which form the city's background, appear the aqueducts. Con amove we lingered in Genoa's Campo Santo, where ranged in arcades we saw many marble monu- ments of superb design, and exquisite sculpture, white as the new-fallen snow. It was wondrously fine and masterly. We ended with a charming drive on the Corso and bluffs, and had a magnificent view of the city, bay, and shipping, altogether a grand im- posing spectacle. One of our hours, pleasant to remember as a party, was spent one Sunday afternoon in sacred song, in 146 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS the parlor of our Hotel de Genes. While together, a vast procession, estimated after careful count at over 30,000 persons passed by, accompanied with banners and bands of music, bearing a funeral car, with the remains of heroes long since gone to the Undiscovered country. They were now being transferred to the beautiful and modern Campo Santo. Early Monday morning, the square fronting our hotel was an animated scene with the huckster's market. Women were selling fruits and vegetables, men vending jewelry, etc., crowds swarming over the place. The women as they sold out their stock placed their great baskets over their heads and walked away. For thirty centimes (six cents) I bought three luscious oranges and a lemon. We had now to use Italian money, such as lira (twenty cent) and two lira pieces, centesimi; the change is quite confusing for a w 7 hile. After market I walked before breakfast up the hand- some Via Roma, and on to Garibaldi's tablet. His father was a Genoese. Mazzini, the great revolu- tionary Italian leader, was born at Genoa in 1808. Rubens and Van Dyck resided here for a time. Tuesday, May 20, we had another pleasant ride along the fine scenery of the Riviera; going by rail be- tween the Appennines and the Sea, 102 miles to Pisa. We rushed through eighty tunnels, and had a view of the great Carrara marble quarries. From old Liguria, and its traditions of Hercules, we came to sunny Tuscany once the home of the Greek Etruscans. PISA six miles from the Mediterranean Sea, lies on both SOUTHERN FRANCE AND THE RIJ/IERA 147 sides the classic Arno. Florence which conquered it is fifty miles east on the same river. Pisa is ancient; it was a Roman colony 180 years before Christ, it was an important city and a rival of Genoa, and has had many changes; but few antiquities now remain here. With its suburbs it numbers forty thousand people. It is distinguished as the birth-place of Galileo who by a strange coincidence was born the day on which Michael Angelo died, February 18, I 564. We stop at Hotel Grand Bretagne, fronting the Ar- no. The house was once a convent, and I imagine what pale-faced nuns in sombre garb once demurely paced these corridors, or looked out by night, as I do now on those two long rows of glittering lamps beside the river. It is a pretty sight. Human hearts are much the same, beneath whatever dress they beat. " Ab uno, disce omnes." We early wend our way to the Piazza del Duomo in the Northwest corner of Pisa where is a very ex- traordinary group of attractions. Here is the white marble CATHEDRAL, 311 by 106 feet, and 109 feet high in the nave. It was built in 1063; and has a splendid facade of columns and arches, and a dome over the center of the cross. To the philosophic mind of Galileo that swinging lamp suggested the idea of the pendulum. In front is the circular marble BAPTISTERY 190 feet high, with an exquisitely beautiful six sided pulpit, borne by seven columns, and finely ornamented 148 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS with reliefs. Behind the Cathedral is the celebrated companile or clock tower, of which the world has heard as the LEANING TOWER; which is 179 feet high, with thirteen feet out of the perpendicular. It has eight stories with colonnades, and contains seven bells. Its obliqueness was proba- bly caused by the settling of the foundations during the process of building, and then remedied by giving the upper part a vertical position. Certain it is, that the heaviest bell weighing six tons hangs opposite the seemingly toppling wall. Pisa has here an interesting ancient Campo Santo, dating back to the twelfth century. In the long cloistered corridor are many splendid monuments, though time has stained their once snowy white. In the Crusade period that agitated Europe, fifty-three ship-loads of earth were brought from Mount Calvary that the dead might rest in holy ground. I rambled across the Solfarino bridge to a gem of a little church in the French-Gothic style called Santa Maria della Spina in allusion to a part of the original crown of thorns here preserved. It dates back to 1230, and was built for sailors about to go to sea At a near sea-bathing place, poor Shelly whose mind was full of poetic fancies, and whose heart was full of hope and love, was drowned. The place is called II Gombo. His body washed upon the shore was burned, and that "heart of hearts" was buried in the Protestant cemetery at Rome. CHAPTER XL IMMORTAL ROME. "I am in Rome! oft as the morning ray Visits these eyes, waking at once I cry Whence this excess of joy? What hath befallen me? And from within a thrilling voice replies Thou art in Koine! a thousand busy thoughts Rush on my mind, a thousand images, And I sprang up, as girt to run a race. Thou art in Rome: the city that so long Reigned absolute, the mistress of the world, The mighty vision that the prophets saw And trembled: that from nothing, from the least The lowliest village — (what but here and there A reed-roof d cabin by the river side) Grew into everything; and year by year Patiently, fearlessly, worked her way O'er brook, and field, and continent and sea. Thou art in Rome! the city where the Gauls Entering at sunrise through her open gates And through her streets silent and desolate, Marching to slay, thought they saw gods, not men! The city that by temperance fortitude And love of glory towered above the clouds, Then fell: but falling kept the highest seat, And in her loneliness, her pomp of woe, Where now she dwells, withdrawn into the wild, Still o'er the mind maintains, from age to age, Her empire undiminished." Rogers. [Founded 753 years B. C.] Rome! the Eternal city ! thou "backward-looking 149 150 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS daughter of Time!" once proud mistress of the world — I salute thee ! Thy founding was before the Ancients, Plutarch, Zenophon, Herodotus! before him who rebuilt great Babylon, Nebuchadnezzar! thou hadst began thy wondrous career earlier than the con- quering Cyrus, than mighty Sennacherib, than victorious Alexander. Tyre and Nineveh, Carthage and Babylon were the cotemporaries of thy youth. There was yet no Babe of Bethlehem ; Jesus the Teacher, the Light, the Savior of men, had not yet appeared on this planet. England was then hidden in the womb of fate. America was not even dreamt of till much more than two thousand years after thou wert founded. Greece was thy royal mate, for Homer had already struck his glorious lyre, and sweet Sap- pho's poet-song filled the listening groves, while thou and Hellas wert young. Rome, I salute thee, mother of republics. Five hundred and nine years before the Christian era thou hadst a government of the people, by the people, and for the people; a republic that in those times primeval on which the Light of the world had not yet shined, still lasted almost five hundred years, and produced such heroes as the gallant Horatius "who kept the bridge in the brave days of old;" — Coriolanus, and Cincinnatus who went from the plough to the supreme magistracy, conquered the enemy of Rome, and then voluntarily returned to his farm. Would that in this office-seeking age, there were more such patriots as he ! Rome! I salute thee! for in thy first ages thou IMMORTAL ROME 151 hadst women who saved thee. Methinks I see the aged mother Veturia, the fond Volumnia holding her children by the hand, her babe upon her breast — they seek the warrior's tent, pleading that Rome may be spared from hostile invasion ; and they plead not in vain. Rome! thou mother of great men, of the brave high minded Scipio, the virtuous Cato, the conquer- ing Pompey, the eloquent Cicero, the great, grand Julius Caesar, whom Shakespeare calls, "The foremost man of all the world," of Virgil, Horace, Sallust, Catullus, Ovid, names that were not born to die — Livy, Pliny, Juvenal and Tacitus — Rome of Trajan and the good Marcus Aurelius, I honor thee. Rome of Caesar Augustus! who "found Rome brick and left it marble," a city of two and a half millions of people, I admire thee!— But Rome! for thy moral degeneracy, thy voluptuousness, thy multiplication of slaves, thy own unfitness for freedom, thy hard hearted cruelty, thy savage and infamous murders of christians, who held a pure gospel worthy to renovate the thought and life of the world — history must con- demn thee. In the second century B. C. for five million free inhabitants, Italy had twelve million slaves! Under Augustus Caesar there were fifty million slaves in the Roman Empire. "No nation can permanently continue part slave and part free." By thee, also, Christians were flung in the fire; they were tortured with whip and rack, with wild beasts, with hooks of steel, with red-hot beds, were nailed 153 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS to the cross, were sewn up in skins of wild beasts, and exposed to the fury of dogs, were smeared with com- bustibles and lit as torches to illuminate the night. Ere long the scepter departed from thee. In 476 A. D. the Western Roman Empire passed away. "Ill fares the land to hastening ills a prey, Where wealth accumulates, and men decay." I pass thy chequered history, the Capital removed from thee to Constantinople in 323 A. D. — thy wan- ing power and prestige — the Hun at thy door, the Vandal and Moor wrecking and pillaging thy glorious city; the growth of the Papac}- by grant of Charle- magne in 800, and thy rule by popes after 1676; dis- sensions causing the transfer of their seat of govern- ment to Avignon France in 1309 to 1377; the brief flicker of the old republic under the noblest of the Ro- mans, Rienzi, in 1347. Early in the sixteenth cen- tury I see dawn a Golden Age of Art for Rome. Spirits of Bramante, Michael Angelo, Raphael! I bow rever- ently before you. In St. Peter's massive, glorious temple, in the treasures of the Vatican, in the palaces and museums your art has enriched, I find your matchless monument; your varied works, embodi- ments of grandeur, sublimity, tenderness, grace and beauty, have been the accepted models for successive generations. You caught and transmitted the celestial fire! With you we associate those lesser lights who have yet wrought masterpieces, Caracci, Domenichino, Guido Rene; since whom the muse of Rome sits mute on Roma's walls as if her soul were dead! IMMORTAL ROME i53 Twice has the old-time spirit of Liberty flashed forth in the establishment of a brief republic — in 1798, and 1848 — when revolutions were in the air. The subjugation of the pope's temporal power was accom- plished and Italy, long rent and dismembered became united once more in 1870, under the wise and liberal minded Victor Emanuel, whose worthy son Humbert is now king. Rome again is capital and rapidly assuming new life and prosperity. In days of old, Rome sat a queen on her seven hills, the Palatine, Capitoline, Quirinal, Viminal, Esquiline, Coelian, and Aventine; with the Apennine range to the far East, and with the tortuous yellow Tiber on her immediate west, its course southerly. It was navigable to where it emptied into the Sea, fourteen miles away. West of the Tiber rises Mt. Janiculus crowned with its beautiful Pamfilia Doria palace; from the height is a transcendant, glorious prospect of the river, city and suburbs. On the northeast is the Pincian Hill, also affording a splendid view from the opposite point of the compass. Things are greatly changed to-day from ancient Rome. For a thousand years went on the process of destruction. A great fire swept its southern por- tion. Yet it is incomparably attractive. The interest of a European tour finds here its culmination. "Rome," said Goethe, "is touched with immortality." From Pisa I went to Rome May 21. The skies wept all the way. "All the world loves a lover." We had two apparently on their wedding tour, in our com- partment, v\ho billed and cooed like two turtle doves, 154 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS or a new Adam and Eve in the Eden-garden. What a pity that "the light that never was on land or sea" should fade! Falling asleep at midnight in my delightful room in Hotel Continental fronting Cavour street, I began my first day in Rome, the historic city of my girlhood's romantic dreams. Looking out next day I found a well-built modern section. I was near the railway station and the great Baths of Dio- cletian at which there were once 3000 bathersdaily. They were constructed early in the fourth century. They are now enormous fragments of high brick walls. I attended a service in the church S. Maria degli Angeli, which Michael Ang^lo made out of one of its great vaulted apartments. Here is Salvator Rosa's tomb. Near the station stands a bit of Servius' wall. Including my second visit to Rome in 1892 when I stopped at Hotel d'Angleterre near Piazza Spagna^ I spent ten memorable days in the seven-hilled city. It has now 300,000 inhabitants. I was transported in ten long carriage-drives in charge of accomplished archaeologists; so that every opportunity was at hand to see, without great weariness, the principal objects of interest. Nearly every place of special importance I visited twice or oftener, the visit in 1892 subserving the excellent purpose of rendering each recollection more true and distinct. Much as I had anticipated, the reality was not dis- appointing, except that since Victor Emanuel was king, the city has made rapid strides in rebuilding, and prosperity. Consequently it was not such a IMMORTAL ROME 155 scene of bewildering desolation as imagination had pictured. I had seen Chicago when it was burning up in the great Conflagration of 1871 and remember- ing its smoking ruins, its broken corners of business blocks peering up irregularly skyward, and its miles of debris, was prepared for a great exhibition of the "grand, gloomy and peculiar." Time softens the grimness and savagery of destruc- tion, but when I came to view the Roman Forum, the columns of ruined temples, the desolations of the palaces of the Caesars, and to stand before the mighty Colosseum with its "Arches on arches! as it were that Rome Collecting the chief trophies of her line Would build up all her triumphs as one dome," — viewing the Rome of to-day T and recalling the Rome of two thousand years ago, the spell of the scene came o'er me most impressively, and graved undying images. Gibbon wrote: "At the distance of thirty- five years, I can neither forget nor express the strong emotions which agitated my mind as I first approached and entered the Eternal city." To know Rome, or indeed any place well, we need to have a mental picture of its topography, the rela- tion of its parts to each other, and of the whole to the cardinal points of the mariner's compass. Be- hold then, gentle reader, beneath soft Italian skies a narrow low plain through which winds irregularly at its own sweet will the Tiber, once a noble river, with a general direction to the south. On its (east) left bank rises from the plain called Campus Martius a 1 56 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS semi-circle of bold hills, each from 1 5 1 feet (the Aventine) to 246 feet (the Esquiline) in height. On the plain and seven of these hills with their interven- ing valleys lay ancient Republican Rome. Near the island was the heart of the city, Mt. Capitolium, with the Capitol, and the once famous Tarpeian Rock. Near it, to the south, was Mount Palatinus, on which were the palaces of the Caesars. These two mounts were protected by the river on the west, and by other heights, Aventinus, Coelius, Esquilinus, Viminalisand Quirinalis, semi-circling on the south and east. Mt. Pincius on the N. E., now a very charming park and garden with a wondrous clock run by water, did not belong to the most ancient city, nor did Mt. Vatican, nor Mt. Janiculus with their slopes on the west of the Tiber. Ancient Rome therefore is the southern part of the present city, much of it now a desolation where was once a vast population. It was surrounded by a wall by Servius Tullius, at a date unknown, of which we saw a fragment near the R. R. station; in 276 A. D. it was enclosed by the Aurelian wall, taking in Mts. Pincius, and Janiculus (in part). Pope Leo IV's wall included also Mount Vatican, on which are St. Peter's, the papal residence, with the wonderful Sistine chapel, and other art treasures of the Vatican. The present wall includes all these; and is fourteen miles long. The Appian way mentioned in the Bible, one of the oldest great roads of antiquity known, was constructed as a military road by a censor, Appius, in 312 B. C. and issued from the south section of Rome, a little below the Arch of Constantine, from the IMMORTAL ROME 157 ancient Capuan gate which was near the church of St. Gregorio. It seems to have been in the same direction as the Via di Porta St. Sebastiano leading southerly. It has been excavated to the eleventh milestone and is called the queen of roads; it is a beautiful drive to the Campagna south of Rome. Outside the present city limits, it issued from the Gate of St. Sebastian, formerly Porta Appia which is a mile and a quarter only from the Arch of Con- stantine; that gate however is still two miles and a quarter from the beginning of the excavated part of the ancient Appian way outside the city limits; so much have the deposits of ages filled up and raised the ground above the old levels; a fact strikingly apparent when I came to see the ancient church of St. Clement; the present church of that name, built 1108, was erected directly over an early christian basilica built on foundations laid in the Republican era before Christ; (St. Clement's church is between the Colosseum and St. John in Lateran.) Memory! work thy spells that I may renew the enchantments of those ten illuminated days. It is my first drive in Rome. From delightful Hotel Con- tinental we go past the huge fragments of the Diocle- tian Baths, turn into Via Nazionale, a fine broad street over the Quirinal Hill, thence to the magnifi- cent Fountain di Trevi where abundant pure waters gush from three outlets into a large stone basin, thence to Piazza Barberini; where is Fontana del Tritone, where a stream flows from a Triton blowing on a conch. At Bankers Afaquay and Hooker's we 158 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS secure Italian currency. Here at Piazza di Spagna is the strangers quarter, surrounded by handsome houses and shops. Here too the Spanish staircase, a great flight of 125 steps leads up to an obelisk once in the gardens of Sallust, and to Monte Fincio with its beautiful views of Rome; but on we fly to Piazza del Popolo, where near the Tiber is the principal gate- way from the North. Here is an Egyptian obelisk from Heliopolis, brought in the days of the imperial Augustus Caesar. Its extreme height with base and cross is 118 feet. We turn into the Corso, which is the principal street in Rome and leads southward to the Capitol. It is through the ancient Campus Mar- tius, a densely built section; the Carnival and races are celebrated on this thoroughfare which is more than a mile long. We pass Palazza Colunna with its Column of Marcus Aurelius embellished with reliefs. It is 95 feet high. Near here we reach the PANTHEON one of the grandest, and the most perfect remains of ancient Rome. It was erected B. C. 27. is a huge circular structure once covered with marble and stucco, with a vast colonnade, and lighted solely by an aperture 23 feet in diameter in the dome. It is of magnificent height, 140 feet, and its diameter is the same, and when decorated with gold leaf and gilded tiles, with its statues, arches and caryatides, must have been very imposing. "Simple, erect, severe austere, sublime, — Shrine of all saints and temple of all gods, IMMORTAL ROME 159 Relic of nobler days and noblest arts! To Art a model; and to him who treads Rome for the sake of ages, glory sheds Her light through thy sole aperture." Here lie the remains of the hero-king Victor Eman- uel. Here Raphael dying in 1520 was honored with burial, and here are the remains of Annabel Caracci and other artists. The Pantheon in ancient time dedicated to the worship of Jupiter, was consecrated in 609 by Pope Boniface IV. Twenty-eight cartloads from the Catacombs were placed on the high altar. The edifice is generally known as Santa Maria Ro- tonda. We ride to the east, to the royal palace now occupied by King Humbert. In front of it is Piazza del Qairinale with a fountain from an antique basin, an obelisk brought here from its place in front of Augustus' Mausoleum, and two huge groups in mar- ble handsomely wrought, called the Horse Tamers. We were then shown the royal apartments, beautiful with paintings, tapestries and mosaic from Hadrian's villa; we left just as the King and Queen drove in the royal carriage way. The crown of such a morning was fittingly a drive to the Capitol. Mount Capitolium is 164 feet high, formerly accessible only from the Roman Forum, but now there are several fine approaches. Here was the Citadel of Ancient Rome and here 509 3 r ears, B. C. was consecrated a temple to Jupiter. Fire de- stroyed it but the height was a place of glorious asso- ciations. In the eleventh century it again became the seat of government. In 1 341 Petrarch was there crowned Poet. On it are the palace of the senators, 160 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS the Town Hall, the Capitoline Museum, the church of Ara Coeli (Altar of Heaven) and Monastery, and the Tabularium. In the Capitol square is a bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelms who lived 161 years after Christ, and who wrote the sentiment worthy of being adopted as a motto by every young man, "Whatever any one does or says, / must be good." In harmony with the myth of Romulus, here is a caged she-wolf. In the church of Aracoeli I saw the Bambino, a gorgeously decorated doll representing the infant Jesus, which image is thought to have pro- tected from danger and to have wrought remarkable cures. It is a curious instance of popular credulity. It glitters with jewels. To it have been presented gifts of the value of forty million dollars. Its income has been greater than that of any physician of Europe. In the Capitoline museum I noted a colossal river god represented as holding a shell, beside it two gods Pan; a sarcophagus, with relief of battle scene be- tween Romans and Gauls; the Dying Gladiator found in the garden of Sallust, of whom Byron wrote, "I see before me the gladiator lie. His eyes Were with his heart, and that was far away. He recked not of the life he lost, nor prize. But where his rude hut by the Danube lay. There were his young barbarians all at play, There was their Dacian mother; he their sire Butchered to make a Roman holiday!" Here in the Hall of the Philosophers were many notable statues, IMMORTAL ROME 16t I saw also an interesting picture — Beatrice Cenci's portrait taken by Guido Reni in prison. From the museum I took an inspiring view of the Roman Forum, the Arch of Septimus Severus dis- interred in 1803, three columns of the temple of Vespasian, the arch of Titus, the arch of Constantine in the Triumphal Way. Passing through a garden I looked down on the famous precipice of the Tarpeian Rock, over which criminals were hurled. I visited the Tabularium erected B. C. 78 for state archives. It is a five fold series of vaults with frag- ments from temples and other ruins. CHAPTER XII. ROME PAST AND PRESENT. My next excursion included San Pietro in Vincolo, so named because founded as a receptacle for the chains of St. Peter, 442, A. D. Its chief interest is the marble statue of Moses by Michael Angelo. It was designed for St. Peters at Rome, but the plan of the great master was not carried out. The figures on either side are Rachel as the type of meditative and Leah of active life. The horns proceeding from Moses' brow are due to an erroneous translation of Ex. 34:35, which misguided mediaeval art. The real intent of the passage is that the reflected glory on Moses' brow after he communed with God streamed forth as beams. The statue of Moses is colossal and impressive; a masterly conception. Near the Capitoline is the Mamertine Prison, (Car- eer Mamertinus), where Peter is said to have been imprisoned by Nero. Beneath a small church we found two chambers, the one under the other. The lower is the dungeon where Peter was confined and the well which tradition says he caused to flow. It is a wretched-looking spot. Here perished Jugurtha after six days starvation. The Bible does not state that Peter ever was in Rome, but there are many l«2 ROME PAST AND PRESENT 163 Romish traditions to that effect, beside his tomb be- neath St. Peter's church. In the same viciuity between the Capitoline and Quirinal Hills is Trajan's Forum, with the Column be- neath which he was interred. Beside the republican forum there were originally five of these forums of the emperors. Here we see the foundations of four rows of columns that once belonged to a very splen- did Basilica, whose pavement was rare marble. Tra- jan's celebrated column with its pedestal and statue rises 147 feet; around it winds a spiral bas-relief of no less than 2,500 human figures. It is the model of the column Vendome in Paris. In the hollow between the Capitol and Palatine, with a general direction to the southeast lies the center of the ancient republic, the most interesting spot in Europe, the ROMAN FORUM. It was a place for commercial transactions, for political assemblies, for funerals of nobles, for glad- iatorial combats. Only four hundred and fifty feet long, its effect was enlarged by quadrangular courts surrounded by colonnades, and by temples, built at its sides. The splendor of the architecture and embel- lishments can be imagined from the relics disinterred, but for many centuries it lay a desolation buried under rubbish thirty to forty feet deep. It became a cow pasture. The excavations are of the nineteenth century. There still remain before the imposing Tatularium which is on the south side of the Capito- line Hill, eight granite columns of a Temple of Sat- 164 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS urn, (built 491 B. C.) a three column ruin of the Temple of Vespasian, and fragments of the temple of Concord; fronting the last is the Triumphal Arch of Septimus Severus ; further on is the column of Phocas, fifty-four feet high, erected in 608, at the right is the basilica Julia, and three Parian marble columns of the Temple of Castor and Pollux; opposite the latter are foundations of the temple of Julius Caesar where forty-four years before Christ, Mark Antony made his eloquent oration at Caesar's obsequies; hard by was the Temple of Faustina whose noble portico re- mains; then the three arches of Constantine's vast Basilica, and Hadrian's superb temple of Venus. Next it stands the graceful Arch of Titus dedicated to him A. D. 81. We pass now to the most stupendous ruin in Europe, the Flavian Amphitheatre, more gen- erally known as THE COLOSSEUM. Thus Byron wrote: I stood within the Colosseum's wall Midst the chief relics of almighty Rome. The trees which grew along the broken arches Waved dark in the blue midnight, and the stars Shone through the rents of ruin; from afar The watch dog bayed beyond the Tiber; and More near from out the Caesars' palace came The owl's long cry, * * * * The gladiator's bloody Circus stands A noble wreck in ruinous perfection, A ruin, — yet what ruin; from its mass Walls, palaces, half -cities, have been reared." This immense oval could accommodate 87,000 ROME PAST AND PRESENT 165 persons. It was covered by a mighty awning, and built in 72 A. D. by Vespasian and finished by Titus in 82 on which occasion 5000 beasts were slaughtered and the celebration lasted 100 days. Many Christians were here martyred, the first of whom was Ignatius the bishop of Antioch who bravely said, "I am the wheat of Jesus Christ. I must be broken and ground by the teeth of wild beasts that I may become his pure and spotless bread." It is related that Tele- machus a monk of Lybia was the means of putting an end to the gladiatorial fights. He leaped in be- tween the gladiators and commanded them in the name of God to desist. He was slain by the swords of the gladiators, but there was never another such fight. This was 404 A D. The Colosseum was nearly a third of a mile around, 156 feet high, constructed of blocks of travertine fastened by iron clamps. It was adorned with half columns of the Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian order. It seems almost beyond credence that one third only of the colossal structure remains. It has through the ages been deemed so magnificent a symbol of ancient Rome that it was sung in prophecy, "While stands the Colosseum Rome shall stand When falls the Colosseum, Rome shall fall, And when Rome falls, with it shall fall the world." On the west of the Colosseum stands the colossal statue of Nero erected by his own order; near it is the fragment of a fountain called Meta Sudans, which is in keeping with the majesty of the place; and spanning the Triumphal way is the splendidly sculp- 166 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS tured Arch of Constantine. A few paces N. E. of the majestic amphitheater was the Golden House of Nero, on whose site are the interesting remains of the sumptuous Baths of Titus (A. D. 80). All these wonders show "the rude wasting of old Time." Still going southeast it is an easy passage to the church of Saint Clement, the oldest church of Rome; the upper church is over the one which is most antique and interesting. To this we have already referred. Another short walk southeast brings us to a broad piazza with a red granite obelisk which was erected at (Egyptian) Thebes B. C. 1560. It is the largest obelisk in the world and weighs about 600 tons. Here second only to St. Peter's is the most important church in Rome, St. John in Lateran. Here are said to be the heads of Saints Peter and Paul, and here the Pope used to be crowned, before popes lost their temporal power. In the palace of the Lateran lived the popes for a thousand years. On the east side of the piazza we saw the Scala Santa, the white marble stairs of twenty-eight steps brought from Pilate's palace in Jerusalem, over which the Savior trod before his crucifixion. Brought by direction of the Empress Helena in 326, A. D., no person has ascended them otherwise than upon his knees. To preserve them, they have been encased in wood. To one thus climbing and meditating on the passion of Christ, nine years' indulgence is granted, and the same holds good for souls in purga- tory. It was on this famous staircase that Luther toiling up upon his knees, suddenly remembered the ROME PAST AND PRESENT 167 just shall live by Faith. The sun of the Great Ref- ormation that moment rose above the horizon in his soul. He rose from his prostration, a new man to do his great work as the exponent of a great truth and the apostle of a New Era. I saw five women thus kneeling on their way up the Holy Stairs. At the base are two groups in marble, Christ before Pilate, and Christ and Judas. Near by is the eight- sided Baptistery of Constantine, which was originally built for baths but the Emperor, when converted, changed it to a religious use. Returning from this excursion we saw the spot where the great Julius was stabbed and fell, the deadly deed being done by Brutus his 'natural' son. 'Et tu, Brute!' "O what a fall was there, my countrymen!" The statue of the reformer Bruno, who died in 1600, was also pointed out. It was erected in 1889. Appreciation and recognition came at last. We then took a long restful ride to Villa Borghese just opposite the city, beyond Porta di Popolo and the Pincian Hill. Here are extensive and tasteful grounds including the Villa of Raphael, the whole ornamented with a fountain, gardens, statues, inscrip- tions and a museum of very interesting antiques, including Canovas' statue of Napoleon's sister, Pauline Borghese as Venus. "I remember that old-time villa Where our afternoon went by, Where the sun of May flushed warmly, And spring was in earth and sky. 168 GOLDEN MEMORIES OE OLD WORLD LANDS Out of the mouldering city, — Mouldering, old, and gray, — We sped, with a lightsome heart-thrill, For a sunny, gladsome day, — For a revel of fresh spring verdure, For a race mid springing flowers, For a vision of plashing fountains, Of birds and blossoming bowers." Here as we roamed through shady paths we saw our two young French lovers enjoying their honey- moon in this wilderness of beauty. Golden days to us, — they must have seemed enchanting to those in love's first dream. We were not too sublimated by the trance of thought to enjoy a dinner delightful, abundant and well served at our hotel. Sight-seeing if done thor- oughly is fatiguing; but being so constantly in the open air, together with a regular and excellent cuisine, the strength is maintained. The custom of the country is two full meals a day; but we have not been able comfortably to dispense with the noon lunch. The hydraulic hotel-elevator or lift as it is called in Europe is much slower than the American. The conductor thereof stands on the ground floor, adjusts an iron at a certain gauge, after learning to what floor we wish to ascend. Not more than four can go at once; (if but one be within, the motion is more rapid). Then we begin slowly to ascend. The lift stops of its own mechanism at the floor designated and we open its doors, and step out. . 'Night lets down her curtain pinning it with a star." Another most interesting excursion was to the ROME PAST AND PRESENT 169 CHURCH OF ST. PETER and the VATICAN. I have been there a good many times; there is so much to see that it cannot be quickly comprehended. It is the largest, the most famous and the most im- posing church in Christendom. Its capacity is 54,000 persons; it cost fifty millions of dollars, chiefly raised, alas, by the sale of Indulgences. It is in the north- west part of Rome on Mount Vatican. We crossed the Tiber over the Saint Angelo bridge. Here is the Mausoleum of Hadrian, and the Castle of St. Angelo, a very strong fortress. It is cylindrical in shape, 240 feet in diameter, it contains the remains of the emperors from Hadrian to Septimus Severus, and perhaps to a later period- It was finished in 140 A. D. In one of its dungeons Beatrice Cenci was imprisoned. In a few moments we reach the Piazza Rusticucci where once stood Raphael's House. In front of us is a large ellipse with circular colonnades, in which are 284 columns. An obelisk from Heli- opolis stands in its center. It weighs about 500 tons and its erection was a very difficult matter. It had been ordered under pain of death, that the work should proceed in silence. The director in construct- ing his machinery had omitted making allowance for the stretching of the ropes under the enormous weight. Consequently when it was suspended at a certain angle, it hung, and could not be brought to the per- pendicular. It was a moment of consternation. No one might speak. But one of the 800 workmen, a sailor, whose name deserves to be remembered, 170 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Bresca di S. Remo exclaimed "Water on the ropes!" The problem was solved. The obelisk was set in place by this simple device. But what should be done to him who had violated the command, yet saved the day? To his relatives near San Remo at Bordighera was given the privilege of providing palm branches for Palm Sunday at St. Peters. We pass two "grand old fountains Tossing their silvery spray.' ' St. Peters, the largest church in the world, is just before us, with the Vatican palace at the right, (north). We are now on the hill once covered by the gardens of the emperors; subsequently the site of a circus, where under Nero christians were subjected to cru- elties, and Saint Peter is said to have suffered mar- tyrdom. Here Constantine of the fourth century built a sumptuously decorated basilica, which con- tained the sarcophagus of the Apostle Peter. In that church Charlemagne received the crown from the pope. Its reconstruction was begun in 1450. It was 176 years in process of erection, a term extending through the reign of twenty-eight popes. Among those to whom was entrusted the superintendance of this vast work, was Bramante, to whose designs belong great credit, —Michael Angelo to whom the successful completion of the marvelously symmetri- cal dome is due — Raphael and Bernini. The ground plan is a Greek cross. The dimensions are: length of transept 450 feet; length of nave 619 feet by 88 wide, total length 696 feet. The dome has nearly ROME PAST AND PRESENT 171 the same diameter as the Pantheon, being 141 feet. It rises above the roof 308 feet; total height from pavement to top of the cross 470 feet. Beneath the dome is a tall bronze canopy borne by four gilded spiral columns, by Bernini. Under it is the High altar, and beneath it, in the crypt, to which we de- scended by a double flight of marble steps, is the Tomb of St. Peter surrounded by 112 ever- burning lamps. The sarcophagus of the apostle is enclosed by doors of gilded bronze. In the interior of the church, the pavement and walls are of marble. Pictures wrought in mosaic, and numerous statues ornament it, among which are Thorwaldsen's statue of Pius VII. and Canova's Pope Clement XIII. Canova truly touched nothing which he did not adorn. There is a famous bronze statue of St. Peter, sitting on a white marble throne; it is fifth century work; the big toe nearly worn away by the touch and kisses of the devout. The Gregorian chapel was from a design of Michael Angelo. Other distinguished names shared in the numerous decora- tions. The Jubilee door, opened only once in twenty- five years, is on the extreme right, indicated by a cross; the time for the next opening would be 1900. Its whole area is about twice that of St. Paul's Cathedral, London. Yet so harmonious are its pro- portions, such the number of its sculptures and adorn- ings that the first effect though impressive and ma- jestic is not overwhelming. The grandeur and sub- limity of the Temple grow upon the soul by contem- plation. The singing of the wonderful choir of St. 172 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Peters, the like of which is nowhere, and will not be repeated, was to me an exquisite pleasure. Another has described it thus: "A silver mist of sound A rain of sobbing sweetness, swelling, dying, Voice into voice, inweaving with sweet throbs And fluttering pulses of impassioned moan." Mrs. Stowe. Passing around this colossal basilica, I reached the Vatican. This became the residence of the popes, after their return from Avignon. It has eleven thou- sand rooms and halls, and is the largest palace in the world. Its long and absorbingly interesting Sistine (Sixtine) Chapel derives its name from Sixtus IV. who erected it. The ceiling was painted by Michael Angelo it is said in twenty-two months; the sub- ects are religious and exhibit great power in concep- tion and skill in technique; especially noteworthy are the figures of Zacharias, the woman evolved from the man, and the serpent with a woman's face. (Temp- tation is protean, now man, now woman, as best suits his end. It is a slander on woman to say that she is always the tempter.) A critic of Michael Angelo's period suggesting that his pictures were too nude, the artist painted him in the fresco in hell! Thirty years after painting the ceiling MichaelAnge- lo painted on the altar-wal the last judgment. An immense undertaking. The frescoes are dark with the touch of Time. Ascending to the stanze of Raphael we were shown his noble frescoes. Here is his celebrated "School of Athens." In his Loggie are many of hi§ ROME PAST AND PRESENT 173 graceful compositions representing Bible scenes. They are considered the finest work of decorative art in existence. The picture gallery and marble statuary department are both extensive and price- less on account of the excellence of the collection. Among the pictures, there were Madonnas from Titian, Sassofarata, and Guido, Raphael's Trans- figuration, Corregio's Christ, Constantine's Baptism and Announcement, Domenichino's Communion of Jerome; among sculptures The Apollo Belvidere, the Laocoon, the sleeping Ariadne, Augustus Caesar, the Torso, of which M. Angelo said "the man who did this is my master." Here I saw the largest piece of malachite known; the Sevres vase manufactured for and used at the baptism of Napoleon's son; the original manuscript of Anne Boleyn's letter to the pope; Michael Angelo's plan for the Basilica of St. Peter; marbles from the Catacombs formed into a table, being a Nineteenth century mosaic. Another of our delightful drives included the ruins of the Baths of Caracalla, which are both vast and magnificent and could accommodate 1600 bathers at once. Passing thence by the tomb of the public spirited Scipios, we descended one of the Colum- baria, or deep vault-like receptacles for the heathen dead. The stairways are steep; here are cinerary- urns deposited in the niches. We pass the conspic- uous Arch of Drusus, and a mile and a quarter from St. Sebastian's gate we come to the CATACOMBS OF ST. CALIXTUS. The Roman law forbade the interment of the dead 174 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS within the city limits. The early christians, en- tertaining the hope of resurrection were unfavorable to cremation which was practiced by Europeans. Hence they excavated subterranean passages in the soft stratas of tufa of which the hilly environs of Rome consist. In the third century during severe persecutions, the christians while holding religious services at these tombs were frequently followed and arrested or slain. Provided with lighted tapers and followed by our guide who bore a torch, we descend- ed to a narrow passage about two and a half feet wide, with recesses at the sides where, in niches of five or more, the dead were laid and the niche closed with a tablet of marble or stone. After proceeding a considerable distance, we descended another stair- way to another series of chambers beneath those we had traversed. There was also a third series under- neath the last. Occasionally there was a larger room set apart for public worship, and the communion. The Catacombs have been explored 587 miles. It must be remembered however that they lie in tiers. It seems incredible that between the first and fifth centu- ries six million were buried here. Eleven thousand inscriptions have come to light, some of them very touching. It has been appropriately observed; "The Catacombs are the shelves of a vast library where Death has arranged his works." St. Peter's sarco- phagus was for a while kept in them. St. Cecilia is buried in those of St. Calixtus, who was himself here interred. He was bishop of Rome. We rode on the Appian way, remembering Paul ROME PAST AND PRESENT 175 often was here. We looked at the Circus of Max- entius which was for chariot races, there being traces of ten tiers of seats for the accommodation of about eighteen thousand persons, in the ages past. We saw also the huge circular tomb of Cecilia Metella. The long line of arches of the aqueduct over the cain- pagna are a curious feature of the scene. St. Paul's church, where festivals are celebrated, a mile and a half out from St. Paul's Gate, is homely in its exterior but exceedingly beautiful with- in. Tradition says that beneath it was St. Paul's tomb, over which Constantine built a much esteemed church, consumed by fire in 1823. The present church has an imposing series of Simplon granite col- umns, with marble bases and marble corinthian cap- itals; there are two alabaster columns presented by the Viceroy of Egypt; malachite altars from the Czar of Russia, columns of red porphyry, and stained glass windows. The dimensions are 390 x 195 feet and the great nave is noble and impressive. We returned by the Protestant cemetery where lies Keats, whose pensive soul sighed "my name is writ in water" and where Shelley's heart was buried by his friend Byron. Here too is the quaint pyramid of Caius Cestius who died even before Christ. Paul must often have looked upon it. The last thing Paul would see as he went to martyrdom said our Archaeologist, Dr. Crunden, would be that pyramid. But his one concern was to fight the good right, to keep the faith and to witness with his dying breath for his beloved 176 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Master. Peter had been crucified head downward 6$ A. D. Paul was beheaded by order of Nero four 01 five years after. Another interesting excursion was among famous palaces. I was charmed with Guido Reni's cele- brated painting on the ceiling 'of the palace Respig- lione, Aurora strewing flowers before the chariot of the sun who is surrounding by dancing Horse. One knows not which most to admire, the poetic con- ception, or the effective and graceful execution, both of which attest the splendid genius of the master. At palazza Barberini we saw the statue of Thor- waldsen and picture gallery with Raphael's Fornarina; at the palace Colonna, another clever picture gallery, — and began to feel a little acquaintance with our favorite artists and their styles. I had feared inability to appreciate the old masters; but I became quite fond of some of them. Passing over a staircase I saw where fell a cannon ball on the stairs in the bombardment of the city in 1849. From the Barberini palace we passed to the church of the Capuchins, in which is the celebrated picture of St. Michael by Guido Reni. Beneath the church we trod four burial vaults with ghastly decorations of the bones of 4000 Capuchins. Some human fig- ures stand erect, shrunken and dried, but still life-like and with expression in their wizened faces. We also attended the very gorgeous church of Gesu, the largest Jesuit church in Rome, built in the sixteenth century. It was Saturday, eleven o'clock. A service was in progress, the church full, the preaching animated. ROME PAST AND PRESENT 177 Of the eighty churches dedicated to Mary in Rome the largest and perhaps the oldest, for it was erected in the fifth century on the site of one still earlier, is the conspicuous church of Santa Maria Maggiore. It stands on the Esquiline Hill, approached by a handsome flight of steps, a large piazza in front and an Obelisk which once stood before the mausoleum of Augustus. Here has been brought a column from the basilica of Constantine rising forty-six feet and crowned with a bronze figure of the Virgin. Its interior is rich and imposing. It was near my first quarters, Hotel Continental, and became a familiar landmark. It may be known in the distance by its two towers and campanile. Vivid is the recollection of my late jaunt on Palatine Hill to view "Where Caesar's chambers and the Augustan halls Grovel on earth in indistinct decay." There have been extensive excavations under Na- poleon III, who bought a portion of the palace hill; under the Russian emperor, and subsequently by the Italian government, since Rome has been its seat. Here began the private bridge that vain Caligula raised high up above the forum, that he might cross to the Capitol; yonder we saw the house of Livia, the widowed mother-queen; here the Flavian palace, the library and lecture-room thereof; yonder the temple of Apollo of the black thorn; and on a lower level the Pedagogium where the imperial slaves were taught: — all utter desolations tp-day! The crowning delights of ten memorable days in 178 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Rome, and of as many exciting drives which I en- joyed, in my first tour to Europe and again this year, were a solitary, meditative rapturous ramble on the Pincian Hill, and a drive on Mount Janiculus. Up we wound to the piazza in front of St. Pietro in Montorio, and turning gazed' on the magnificent prospect; to the south the dreamy Campagna, before us the once mighty and still beautiful city, and north- ward, "The dome of old St. Peter's With a strange translucence glows, Like a mighty bubble of amethyst Floating in waves of rose. O city of prophets and martyrs! O shrines of the sainted dead! When, when shall the living day-spring Once more on your towers be spread? O when to those noble churches, To picture and statue and gem, To the pageant of solemn worship Shall the meaning come back again?" Resuming our ride westward, we came to Villa Doria Pamfili, the most charming of Roman villas, and wound among meadow, grove and garden most beautiful by nature and art. Returning we met, preceded by forerunners in livery, a carriage in which was the beautiful Marguerita, Queen of Italy ! CHAPTER XIII. NAPLES AND HER ENVIRONS. "This region surely is not of the earth. Was it not dropped from heaven? not a grove Citron or pine or cedar; not a grot Seaworn and mantled with the gadding vine But breathes enchantment, not a cliff but flings O'er far clear wave, some image of delight, With a grace, nature's, and nature's only." Tuesday May 27th. It is my first afternoon in NAPLES. I am at Grand Hotel Royal de Strangers, beside the beautiful, broad Bay, and have taken my first stroll. Walked through Strada Lucia among the fisherwomen and their plebeian surroundings to Piazza del Plebiscite, where is the other social extreme, a royal palace of King Humbert. Opposite in the rim of a semi-circle was the church of St. Francisco; on I pursued my way past San Fernando place, which is called the center of Naples, down Toledo street which is full of gay tempting shops, Reaching the Bank of Naples, I turned back again to the quay, and on to the public gardens. On the quay I saw a pathetic sight. Next the sea was a high wall with a circular tower abutting on the sidewalk. In front of it a huckster-woman with 179 180 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS unkempt locks tended her stand. Just as I passed the spot, I saw her with another woman hastily spring over the tower side, apparently to a stairway within it, and directly return with a boy of six or eight with- in their arms. The child had fallen down the tower and was unconscious or dead. Then went the shop-woman into a wild paroxysm of unrestrained grief. Hastily pouring the contents of her money- drawer into her bosom, she leaped into a carriage that drove up, as if she would seek a physician's aid. Then as if it were in vain, she tore her hair, beat her arms, and brandished them as one frantic. A crowd gathered about the wretched mother, and I passed on without learning the sequel. I saw her afterward at her stand in the sailor quarter: ' For women must work, 'though women may weep, There's little to earn and many to keep,' And the harbor bar a-moaning." The scenery is picturesque and genre, worthy an artist's skill. Along this quay is a wide and ram- bling paved street, flanked with business houses, swarming with quaintly garbed Italians of various crafts. Behind them, in bold relief the strong back- ground of a steep and lofty bluff, St. Elmo, 876 feet high; Nature's impregnable fortification. Eastward is Vesuvius, that great smoker, looking at night like a bad boy on a spree, with a very red eye! Before us southerly spreads out the smooth and beauteous Bay whose charm poets love to sing and painters to sketch. To the west "Here Ischia smiles O'er liquid miles, NAPLES AND HER ENVIRONS 181 And yonder, bluest of the isles. Calm Capri waits, Her sapphire gates Beguiling to her bright estates." Beyond, stretches the historic sea, of which Renan wrote suggestively: "For a thousand years the Med- iterranean was the great highway where the civiliza- tions and all ideas met and mingled." In the gloaming I watched the fast driving, the fine carriages, the spanking teams, the cute little donkey carts that went by till a late hour. Morn broke dreamily beautiful. With Mr. and Mrs. C. of Syracuse for companions I started for VESUVIUS. We skirted the bay by a seemingly interminable street, and where we left it to ascend the lava beds, we rode over the dead and buried city Herculaneum. Up and still up we wound, amid the black and cor- rugated fields, where had fallen the fiery devastating floods of the volcano in successive eruptions. Far- ther and farther away, in hazy dim distance, receded the stirring city we had left behind. We passed the observatory. We had reached 2220 feet above sea level; another three quarter of an hour would take us to the summit. As we reached the last lone cot near the wire rope railway, I found that by fatigue, excitement, and my constitutional timidity on precip- itous heights, my nerve power was spent. At this lone cot of the Vesuvian Funiculare, among strange Italians with whom I could exchange no word, I stopped for some hours. Here was a man, a woman, 182 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS and three small children, living on a tongue of land that had escaped the molten deadly flood of former eruptions. It stretched toward the Vesuvian cone and was gay with a brilliant yellow bloom, inhabited by lizards and perhaps by snakes or other poisonous reptiles. The view from this high solitary spot was poetic beyond expression. Here I sat and fed my fancy on the dreamy, hazy bay, and all the strange environment. The Italian woman brought me water, brushed me, walked with me, gathered flowers and ferns and these strange yellow blossoms, and when I sang Rock of Ages, she sang some native strain for me; offered me wine and bread, which I refused, as I only wanted rest. All this would have been beau- tiful, had it not been mercenary. The hut was clean but bare. Meanwhile the party arrived at the sum- mit and proceeding to the crater had a sensation. Up flew the smoke, hot stones and lava, as it seemed to them, threatening another dread catastrophe. Turning precipitately they stumbled over each other and several fell to the ground, but no serious acci- dent resulted. At last they began the ride homeward, and I parted with the lone Italian cottagers, glad not to pass the night in such a desolate dangerous spot, with those who might possibly turn brigands; nor in such near proximity to the burning Volcano, on whose mood none can count. But the superb view I laid up in memory's gallery. Since then Vesuvius has been at times threateningly active. The wire- rope inclined railway opened in 1880, goes to within 150 yards of the crater. Unwarned by the fate of NAPLES AND HER ENVIRONS 183 cities destroyed by its desolating flood, multitudes dwell in dangerous proximity to Vesuvius. Thus is it in morals. Though warned as men are by innu- merable examples, that moderate drinking leads to drunkenness, yet they continue to use the intox- icating cup, hoping they will escape; and sink into the vortex of ruin. They presume on safety, and presumption goes before destruction. On Thursday, had a charming sail to CAPRI. "The little isle which in my very face did smile" is twenty miles away from Naples, and its rocky height is 1980 feet above sea-level. We entered little row boats at Naples, and were rowed by stout seamen to a steamer. The sea was beautifully smooth so that our party who desired were taken in row boats to the beautiful blue grotto where the color- effects are very remarkable. This requires about ten minutes. On the Capri shore the sea was emerald as a green ribbon. Some one has well said "The palette is beggared by the intense sapphire and tur- quoise of the waves." On shore were luxuriant gar- dens of lemons, oranges, loquats, and flowers. Don- keys gaily caparisoned were waiting for riders. We returned by Sorrento, stopping there awhile. There came back to me on the way, the whole of Buchanan Read's exquisite poem Drifting in the Bay of Naples, commencing " My soul to-day Is far away 1 84 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LA ADS Sailing the Vesuvian bay. My winged boat, A bird afloat, Swims round the purple peaks remote." It is singularly felicitous, a picture in words. May 30, Friday. In our ride to-day we saw Virgil's tomb near the edge of a lava cliff and hill. His villa was not far away. He wrote "In Mantua born, and in Calabria bred, Fair Naples holds me now." Like many another genius he sprang from the com- mon walk of life, his father being a porter. We rode through a long rock tunnel, and some miles west of Naples, viewed the sulphur baths of the early Ro- mans, the Ammonia grotto, and the grotto of the dog, where by order of Nero, prisoners were suffoca- ted. An experiment was now tried on a little dog belonging to the premises. On being exposed to the strong fume coming up from an opening in the ground, he was soon stupefied. We saw the dried- up lake Anagno. This long ride was through a re- gion highly cultivated, three crops being raised from the same ground at once, trees growing for firewood or fruit, grapevines which were suspended from tree to tree for support, and beneath were crops of corn or vegetables. Then we turned toward a village, near Pozzuoli, and ascended a long high ridge whose further side was washed by the Mediterranean. It was a very finely built highway with stone coping and commanded a fine view of the valley, and the islet Nisida which has a prison on it. At length we "cL, a; C D U X NAPLES AND HER EN 'VI RONS 185 reach the summit of the bluff and descend to Naples b^ the sea-side road. We were taken to the National Museum and saw many interesting relics of buried Pompeii lately un- earthed; tokens of the life of the Pompeiians eight- een hundred years ago; such as a saucepan with food cooking in it, loaves of bread black and charred, an uncracked egg 2000 years old, honey in the comb, loaves in the oven, a sucking pig in a baking dish, a dog in the agony of death. I saw also the largest piece of mosaic existing, taken from the house of Arbaces the Egyptian, representing a battle between Alexander and Darius. Saw the lone of Pompeii men- tioned iu Bulwer's Last Days of Pompeii, same as the Psyche of Capua; frescoes almost 2000 years old, a cooking range, a table d'hote bell, and kitchen utensils, a triclinium for reclining at table, — a char- coal fireplace for warming at the baths, Jasper cas- ket of the Medici; and a multitude of antiquities im- possible to recount; marble busts of Julius Caesar, Trajan, Socrates, Seneca, Plato, and others. This year in my second visit to Naples, we had a glorious drive up San Martino, viewing the vast city of 495,000, the mountains Somma and Vesu- vius, the smiling bay, the curving outlines of Capri in the hazy distance. We saw the church of St. Janu- arius, martyred in the third century, Naples, patron saint. We were shown (professedly) some of his fin- gers! A peculiarity of Naples is the brilliance of the horses' harness from its bright polished nails, and numerous trappings; the collars of the horses' necks are high and look very queer. 186 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD V/ORLD LANDS This year I was privileged to make a second visit to Pompeii. "Herculaneum," said our conductor, Dr. C, "was destroyed in three days. The people supposed it the universal wreck. Ashes flew to Alexandria. Each sought shelter away from where he was, supposing another's place safer than his own. Pliny's mother heroically said to her son, 'You are young, I am old. I will die, but save yourself. ' The son would not de- sert his mother, took her with him and both escaped. The elder Pliny assisted in removing the terrified people to safer places, was overtaken by the sudden fiery flood and perished." POMPEII was seven hundred years old at the time of its de- struction, Nov. 29th, A. D. 79. It had a population of 25,000. It was a profligate city. Nature had sent her warning in an earthquake which laid some buildings low, but it was unheeded. Then came the fiery rain of lava, scoria and ashes that blotted out the city for 1,800 years, from the ken of man. Ex- cavations in the present century reveal the everyday life of a luxurious and effeminate people. Here are narrow streets, paved with massive square stones; narrower pavements for foot-passengers, in which we saw the tying holes in the stones for beasts; high crossing-stones, all in perfect preserva- tion. The houses are of brick or concrete, usually one story in height adapted in size and construction to people spending in that warm climate much time in the open air. There were upper stories, but they NAPLES AND HER ENVIRONS 187 were burnt. The small bedrooms scarcely large than doll's houses allowed utter privacy and place for sleep; no more, for no more was required of them. One building shown us represented in its different quar- ters the civil, social, and religious life of the period, viz. a court of Justice of Anno Domini 55, — a temple of Venus, with statues, — and a temple of Jupiter and Saturn, all in one. Here we saw the famous Pom- peiian reds with which walls were adorned; a street of shops; a triangular forum; the tragic theater; temple of Isis, gate to Stabie with chariot marks worn in the paving stones; the Atrium of Cornelius Rufus' house, a bake- oven where bread was found; flour-mill and wine shops, the hunter's house with pictures of the chase, House of Arbaces the Egyptian, amphora?, Temple of good fort 11 ue, large public bath-house, house of Glancus, with "Caveat canem" on the threshold (beware of the dog;, — House of Pansa, house of Sallust, gate of Herculaneum, cem- atery and tombs; one tomb to a nameless hero who died at his post. At the entrance of some homes was the word Have or Salve (welcome). In this con- nection one should read "The last days of Pompeii by Bulwer," which though a work of imagination will aid in gaining and impressing on the mind, the spirit of the times, and the local color. In the larger courts were square stone receptacles for pools of water which served as mirrors for beauty to prink before, ere the invention of looking-glasses. Bathrooms were a frequent feature. Need I say that it is pro- foundly impressive to walk the streets of a city 188 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS which has lain dead and buried for 1800 years. In Naples we see the Italian with all his unchanged national characteristics, whereas in Rome, and Flor- ence and other cities, travelers and foreign residents have introduced the types of costume and civilization of other lands. Naples was founded by Greeks. The old city lay to the east and was called Paleopolis; the later city was toward the west and called Neapolis or new city, and shortened into Naples. To the east of it rise Monte Summa, and Vesuvius, the former the destroyer of Herculaneum and Pompeii. Naples has a superb site, built on an amphitheater of hills, fronting a large and lovely bay. Its houses are high, its ancient streets narrow. Last April (the 29th) I passed by rail over the country between Naples and Brindisi. At Brindisi the Appian way ended. It was a charming ride, through mountain and dell, amid olive groves, fig-trees and vineyards, through "sweet fields arrayed in living green" where peasant men and women were both at work, — anon beside strips of land where oxen were plowing — near country seats, — through villages whose houses all had tiled roofs — 'over flowing streams, and in sight of grand mountains white with snow. Grape vines linked tree to tree. Fields were brill- iant with red and yellow flowers. Now we plunged into a tunnel with five minutes of darkness; anon we confronted landscapes of transporting beauty. "Could nature's bounty satisfy the breast, The sons of Italy were surely blest." I am glad in two visits to Naples to have had five NAPLES AND HER ENVIRONS 189 days for taking in that city, and its numerous at- tractive environs. In going so far, it is desirable to take sufficient time to see with thoroughness, without a confusion of mental images. Five days filled to the brim with a well arranged programme does Naples nicely. In my first tour of Europe, we returned on Saturday to Rome from Naples 161 miles, for a quiet Sabbath. Once more I was in the Eternal city, and while sitting in the Episcopal church, sweetly the chimes rang out, "There is a happy land far, far away." Later the good pastor of the Scotch Presby- terian church told of the effort, and its difficulties and progress, to re-establish a pure Christianity of life and power in Rome, in the place of reliance on im- posing forms from which the soul and life are fled. Should not Christian tourists make it a point, wherever they go, if any Protestant worship is there maintained, to help it by their presence on Sabbath? Thus may they encouage the lone spiritual toilers in their difficult fields, and strengthen the Right; as well as obtain an individual blessing. They will find that six days of the week, well devoted to sight see- ing, demand some remission on the seventh, for their own health and spiritual welfare. Is there not a danger amid the new and strange environment of the traveler, of a growing secularity, and loss of spiritual life? Is not knowledge bought too dear, when the conscience is strained? This is offered not in the spirit of dictation, but of kindly and honest sugges- tion. CHAPTER XIV. DAYS OF GOLD IN NORTHERN ITALY. " "Now tell us what is Italy?' men ask: And others answer, 'Virgil, Cicero, Catullus, Caesar,' what beside? to task The memory closer, — why, Boccacio, Dante, Petrarcha, — and if still the flask Appears to yield its wine by drops too slow, — 'Angelo, Raphael, Pergolese,' — all Whose strong hearts beat through stone, or charged again The paints with fire of souls electrical, Or broke up heaven for music. What more then? Why, then, no more." Mrs.' Browning Twice it has been my felicity to visit that fitly phrased "Lily of the Arno," Florence; in June 1890 and in May 1892. This flower of fair cities lies 196 miles north of the proud city of the Caesars, in a plain through which the classic Arno flows, and is nearly surrounded by Appennine foothills. Its situa- tion is romantic and beautiful; its history reaches back to before the Christian Era, It enjoyed the dis- tinction of once being Capital of Italy. It has a pop- ulation of 170,000, and is a favorite resort of artists and literati for its superior treasures of art, its charm of location and cheapness of living. In both visits I stopped at Hotel de Florence and Washington; 190 DAYS OF GOLD IN NORTHERN ITALY 191 opposite the house where Amerigo Vespucci was born, in which as an American I was interested. My room fronted the river, "The golden Arno as it shoots away Through Florence heart, beneath her bridges four,' and in the moonlight sweet music from the rich voices of Italian serenaders, accompanied by the light guitar floated up from the court below. With a pleasant family from Indianapolis for carriage companions I spent the first da} r in visiting the churches of Firenze, "queen of fair cities." Santa Croce, an imposing basilica finished in the fifteenth century, has a facade of black and white mar- bles, fifteenth centur}' stained glass windows, an elab- orate marble pulpit. It is the Florentine Pantheon containing the remains of Galileo, Michael Angelo, Macchiavelli, beside monuments of Cherubini, Dante and Alfieri. The tomb of the early ancestors of Romola is here. There are remarkably interesting early Frescoes of Giotto who inaugurated a new era in art in the fourteenth century; frescoes which had been stupidly whitewashed over, and lately discov- ered. Prior to the fourteenth century gold background was much used; less thereafter. Giotto when a shepherd boy was discovered drawing the outlines of his sheep in the sand. He who observed the boy was a distinguished artist, Cimabue, and took Giotto for his pupil who rose to first class rank, and to be founder of a school of art. In the piazza Santa Croce, is a monument to Dante the author of the Divina Commedia, born in Florence in 1265. 192 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS "Tender Dante loved his Florence well," but being banished from thence, Ravenna guards his dust. Of magnificent dimensions is the Cathedral, II Duomo, (556^ ft. by 342 ft. across the transept), Its dome, 352 feet, is a few feet higher than the dome of St. Peters and the Roman Pantheon. It has a marble mosaic pavement, and is called one of the grandest Gothic churches in Europe. The superb work of Giotto is seen in the Cam- panile or marvelous bell tower. It is square, of variegated marbles, and is of the astonishing height of 292 feet. The celebrated bronze doors, which Michael An- gelo declared worthy to be the gates of Paradise, are in the Baptistery. They represent Bible scenes and were wrought, the earliest by Andrea Pisano, and the other two by Ghiberti. Marvels of art they were added to the Baptistery in the fourteenth and fif- teenth centuries. The great pre-eminence of Florence as an art center, is partly due to the patronage of the Medicis, who were rich and powerful rulers of the city. The chap- el of the princes which they erected for their sepul- chres cost from their own resources $4,400,000. It is itself a gem of precious marble, mosaics, frescoes. In it are jasper, petrified wood, porphyry and granite from Egypt. Here are the sarcophagi of the Medicis princes from 1564 to 1723. We visited St. Annunziata, a thirteenth century church, and Santa Maria Novella, a beautiful four- DAYS OF GOLD IN NORTHERN ITALY 193 teenth century church adorned with sprightly fres- coes, but they stirred a less deep reverence in my mind than another site; it was the public square or forum, where a great spirit, Giralimo Savonarola, in 1498 by fire and stake went home to God. One should read George Eliot's "Romola" in connec- tion with a visit to Florence. Another most interest- ing spot was the suppressed Monastery of San Marco* Here Savonarola was an inmate and I had the priv- ilege to enter his cell, oratory and study that had wit- nessed the fervor of his prayer, and his spiritual strug- gles; also to see the cell of the saintly painter-monk Fra Angelico in these same Dominican cloisters. Here too was Fra Bartolomeo. No Romish relic of doubtful authenticity was half so impressive as these chambers of the great of old, "The dead but sceptred Sovereigns, who still rule Our spirits from their urns." Two more days of gold I had in Florence, making visits to the Academy of Fine arts, with its lovely St Cecilia by Raphael, and Guido Reni's Madonna della Pieta, to the Palace Corsini, and best, of all, to the priceless treasures of painting and sculpture in the Uffizi gallery and the Pitti palace. Never may I forget one room in the Uffizi, to be entered with reverence, and as Dr. C. observed, to be viewed in silence, — the Tribunal with its exquisite marble stat- uary, the Venus de Medici, the Wrestlers, the Grind- er, the Apollino. In the Uffizi were Titian's Venus, Raphael's young St. John, Leonardo's Adoration of the Magi, Paul Veronese' Holy Family, and in the 194 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD tVORLD LANDS Pitti, Raphael's Madonna del Granduca, Madonna della Sedia, and Portrait of a Lady, Titian's Magda- len, a Florentine mosaic table made in 1620 that cost $100,000; but it is impossible in these limits to enumerate the gems of these magnificent collec- tions, — still more to fitly characterize them. Flor- ence in her golden sixteenth century had an extraor- dinary three; da Vinci, Raphael, Michael Angelo. Fra Bartolomeo was there also, and del Sarto. By a lengthy corridor (1800 feet) we crossed the Arno to the Pitti palace and closed the day with a long delightful drive which wound amid foothills, groves, and elegant villas and led to the observatory of Galileo, and the Piazza Michael Angelo. Here we took a memorable and charming view of city, valley, and Arno, in their amphitheater of hills, and then rode for love's sake to the home once occupied by that sweetest singer, Elizabeth Barrett Browning. Farewell, bella Firenze, Arno's fairest lily. Next morn behind the iron horse we climbed the Apennines, and shot through forty-five tunnels, with many a fine view between, of the plains of Tuscany (181 miles); we passed Ferrara which gave to Titian and the poet Ariosto a home, and a prison to Tasso; and then came for three days, June 5-9, to beautiful Venice, "the bride of the sea." Last May I revisited the scene. Of it Rogers wrote: "There is a glorious City by the Sea. The Sea is in the broad, the narrow streets, Ebbing and flowing; and the salt sea weed Clings to the marble of her palaces. From the land we went As to a floating city." DAYS OF GOLD IN NORTHERN ITALY 195 •It is built on 117 islands of the lagoon which is connected with the Adriatic by channels through banks of sand. The depth of the water in the main channels is 23 feet, sufficient for the largest vessels to enter. The Grand Canal is shaped like the letter S. Venice was called the bride of the sea from her situation and extensive maritime commerce, and the poetic custom used to prevail, on certain state festi- vals, of typifying her union by dropping a certain gold ring into the sea. With a commendable pre- vision, a net was always let down previously that the ring might be recovered. It has 133,000 inhabitants and not a horse ! nor carriage ! The business is done through gondolas, whose gliding motion is liquid poetry most soothing to the sense. There are how- ever 378 bridges over its 150 canals, and paved pas- sage-ways between the houses so that you can peram- bulate the city on foot. The houses are built on piles, and there are a great number of stone palaces, large and handsome, notably the Doge's palace and those which flank the Grand Canal. As its commerce w T as with the Orient in its palmiest days, so its archi- tecture partakes of the Byzantine. It was like an enchanting spell, to be where everything was so unique, yet pleasing; more dreamlike still to be there a later year. Again, we glided in noiseless sable gon- dolas, along liquid channels, "By many a dome Mosque like, and many a stately portico, By many a pile in more than Eastern splendor Of old the residence of merchant kings." Once more we sped beneath the marble Rialto 196 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS bridge, and floated by the beautiful conspicuous church of S. Maria del Salute. Reaching the thresh- old of our hotel, I heard the tinkle of the light guitar, the music of a violin and a rich voice singing some wild sweet strain, as I had heard it two years before. Again I sought the fine paved square of St. Mark, covered as then in the early eve with moving crowds, and brilliant with lighted lamps. Here a well-skilled band discourse delightful music, and the square re- sembles a great ball-room, where well-dressed Ven- etians visit, promenade or sit at out-door cafes by the picture shops. In the afternoon pigeons in flocks are fed here, as they have been for 700 years for the service carrier-pigeons did the city in the conquest of Candia. Again I viewed the fine facade of the Cathe- dral of San Marco with its four gilded copper horses from Constantinople, its composite Byzantine archi- tecture, its five domes, its columns and mosaics, its four spiral columns, two of which were from Solo- mon's temple, one of them was alabaster, its bit of the "true cross" on which Christ was crucified, and the stone whereon Christ preached on Mount Tabor! It has been described as a golden cavern, splendid; and solemn, somber and mysterious. The body of St. Mark is said to be under the High Altar. Near it is the Gothic Campanile 322 feet high, which as it is an inclined plane, the enterprising Napoleon ascend- ed on horseback. Next St. Marks is the Doge's palace, dating from 1350. Its Venitian arches have a very tasteful effect. Here to the rear is the fa- mous Bridge of Sighs over which the condemned of DAYS OF GOLD IN NORTHERN ITALY 107 bygone centuries passed to a violent death below. Hence the appropriateness of the designation, as they would naturally tread it sighing. Down a dark dreary passage we were conducted to the dungeon of execution. Alas! for "man's inhumanity to man!" "I stood in Venice on the Bridge of sighs, A palace and a prison on each hand, I saw from out the waves her structures rise As from the stroke of the enchanter's wand, A thousand years their cloudy wings expand Around me, and a dying glory smiles O er the far times, whence many a subject land Looked to the winged lion's marble piles, Where Venice sat in state, throned on her hundred isles." The night of our first arrival in Venice was a fete day, Corpus Christi; and a multitude of barques were in motion. At the Lace factory east of St. Marks, we saw the interesting process of making lace by hand. There were exquisite specimens. We looked into the operations of the Blowglass works, and into a shop where mosaic is made; and found a store where were exquisite articles of china and wood, vases, jewel boxes. Such are some of the ar- ticles of Venetian manufacture and traffic. It was a very pleasant experience, one afternoon when our first party then numbering thirty filled seven gondolas, each with an American flag for the occa- sion at its prow, and moved along, side by side, through the grand canal. We glided by the sightly S. Maria del Salute, by Desdemona's palace 400 years old — by one occupied by Lord Byron, by his sweetheart's house, by a leaning palace, an unfinish- ed pure white marble palace, the palace of Foscari 108 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS the old Doge of Venice, whose son was unjustly sus- pected, imprisoned, and died of a broken heart; by the superb Lucretia Borgia palace, now the Museum, by Browning's handsome residence bought by him for $16,000 where he died, and which is now oc- cupied by his artist-son; Palace Mocenigo, in four- teenth century pointed style, where Byron composed parts of Don Juan in 1818; and the Golden house. We passed to inspect Gli Scalzi, the sumptuous church of the Barefooted friars, of 1649, which has a Madonna by Bellini behind the high Altar. We also viewed with delighted interest the interior of the Italian Gothic Frari church, which is justly called a museum for Renaissance sculpture. Here is an ex- quisitely beautiful monument in purest Carrara marble to Canova, from his own design. He prepared it for Titian, but it was used for himself, and another elab- orate and costly memorial is erected in the same church for Titian. Canova's heart is buried here, his body at Padua, his right hand in his studio. Ti- tian's work like Canova's was instinct with genius. He was a master cclorist. Beside him, Palma Vec- chio, Tintoretto, and Paul Veronese shed brilliant lus- ter on the Venetian school of Art. In the depart- ment of Chiaroscuro Antonio Allegri, surnamed Cor- reggio was superb. We returned in the gloaming in our gondolas, wak- ing the silences with patriotic airs, — "Columbia the gem of the ocean," and "My country 'tis of thee." Sweet is music on the water at the twilight hour. We rested on the Sabbath in Venice, and heard DAYS OF GOLD IN NORTHERN ITALY 199 some excellent thoughts from Rev. Robertson at the Scotch church on Secret Prayer. Our Monday morning's breakfast was served in continental style in the garden of Hotel Italic This year, in addition to a revisit to many of the places enumera- ted, we had a gondola excursion to the Lido. The gondola has a heavy iron prow, and is managed with wondrous skill by a single rower; if the distance is long, two rowers are desirable. Our next destination was MILAN the chief commercial city of North Italy. We cross- ed the lagoon on a viaduct two miles long, passed old and interesting Mantua, busy Vicenza whose fine pal- aces attest the great Palladio's skill, Verona the home of Shakespeare's Juliet, for the drama has truth for its foundation, and her birth place is pointed out; her tomb is a red marble sarcophagus in the Vicolo Franceschine in the south quarter of Verona. We catch pleasant glimpses of lake Garda, the largest of the Italian lakes, and reach Milan, 164 miles, in six and a half hours, and transfer to Hotel Continental, or Hotel Grande Bretagne et Reichmann. I found both pleasant. Milan has had a chequered history. Founded A. D. 400, it was ravaged by Attila, annexed by Charle- magne, destroyed by Barbarossa, rebuilt by the Lom- bards, conquered by Francis I. Spain then gained pos- session; for a few years it was the capital of Italy; then an Austrian possession. Since 1859 it has been Italian. 200 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS It is justly distinguished for its vast Gothic Cathe- dral, which is "a thing of beauty, and a joy forever." In the Milan Brera the picture-lover may find many splendid paintings by an Italian artist not so widely known as perhaps his merits deserve, Bern- ardino Luini. Another has written this estimate of his work: "The glory of Milan in the way of pictures lies in the magnificent Luini's. In Milan he is greater than his master Leonardo himself, more human and even more ineffably lovely." The church of San Mauri- zio is covered with the most superb frescoes due to his skillful hand. Born in 1490 he passed away in I530- We rambled to the arcade said to be the finest in the world, to la Scala theater which has 3,600 sit- tings and is sumptuous, and to the Cathedral which is second in size only to St. Peter's and Seville Cathe- drals. It dates from the fourteenth century, is 477- feet long by 183 wide and 155 high. It has 98 gothic turrets and unnumbered pinnacles and a marvelous marble roof to which by 194 steps I twice ascended. The ceiling is finished within to resemble wood carv- ing or perforated stone after a pattern of lace, and is an exquisite piece of frescoing. It has superb stained glass windows, and contains Cardinal Carl Borromeo's tomb; (d. 1584). We enjoyed a drive to the Triumphal Arch surmounted by bronze horses after a design by Thorwaldsen, and to St. Ambrose's church where Augustine embraced Christianity. In the refectory near S. Maria delle Grazie we looked on the celebrated painting by Leonardo da Vinci, of DAYS OF GOLD IN NORTHERN ITALY 201 the Lord's Supper. This fresco, a gem of the first water, was badly damaged by the monks cutting a door into it, and by the room having been used as barracks for Napoleon's troops. In the frontispiece of Beecher's Life of Christ, there is a very satisfac- tory reproduction, in the form of an engraving, of the face of Christ as depicted by Leonardo in the Lord's Supper. In the engraving there is a wonder- ful blending of intellect and heart in the expression; a face which inspires confidence by its strength, and attracts by its tenderness; in short, one to whom you could give your utmost devotion. To me it is the ideal face among men. After much haunting of ancient and some times musty cathedrals, palaces, antiquities and museums, it was refreshing to turn for a few days to the Italian lakes and to have two whole weeks of Elysium among them and the mountains of Switzerland. We were satiated with "Domes where crumbling arch and column Attest the feebleness of mortal hand " Now it was delight to enter "That fane, most catholic and solemn, Which God hath planned." LAKE COMO. Two hours by rail brought us to Como, where tak- ing steamboat we skimmed around the shores of one of the loveliest of lakes. The greatest width is scarce- ly two and a half miles. The opposite banks are yisible, diversified with emerald woods, tasteful villas 202 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LAUDS luxuriant gardens, and charming hamlets, while on the north rise mountains to the height of seven thou- sand feet. The lake was placid, and answered Shel- ley's description, "The whispering waves were half asleep, The clouds were gone to play, And on the bosom of the deep The smile of heaven lay." — Leaving passengers at various towns, we finally debarked at Caddenabia, where we stopped at the Bellevue, which was in harmony with the loveliness of its surroundings, and seemed the "Ne plus ultra" of hotels. Next morning we ramble to the celebra- ed Villa Carlotta, named after the princess Charlotte deceased wife of a German count. It is in a lovely garden, where creamy magnolia blossoms and red and white roses in rich profusion perfumed the air, and azaleas were great masses of pink bloom. We were taken into the marble hall which has exquisite sculptures from Canova, and fine ones from Thor- waldsen. In the group of Cupid and Psyche, Canova made the marble breathe in forms of ravishing grace and beauty. From Caddenabia we sailed to Menaggio, then took train over a wild mountain route to Porlezza at the head of Lake Lugano. The scenery was very bold and enjoyable. Another steamboat ride fol- lowed from Porlezza over Lugano which is a smaller lake with deep sinuous gulfs among its mountains, and villages and countryseats along the margin of the lake. Passing the town Lugano, we entered the bay DAYS OF GOLD IN NORTHERN ITALY 203 Ponte Tresa so enclosed as to seem a distinc lake where we again landed and took rail to Luino. Here we had the variety of taking a steamer on Lake Mag- giore in a pouring rain, the first and only serious ex- perience of the kind in our entire journey as a party. Now we were on the largest of the Italian lakes, and landed at the grand hotel of Baveno. Next morning Nature was over her hard cry, and smiling like a happy child. The lake was limpid and smooth as a mirror. Around its blue depths lay an amphitheater of mountains to the northwest, among which the snowy crown of Monte Rosa glis- tened in the morning sun. Careful Italians rowed us to Isola Bella, one of the Borromean islands. Ten terraces of gardens are here crowned by a great palace of the Borromean family; in which we were shown a bed where the queen of England, Victoria, had slept, — the room occupied by Napoleon I. — a long picture gallery with numerous rather than very choice paintings, a ball-room, an extensive grotto. In the luxuriant garden grew rare trees, such as the cam- phor, cork, magnolia, lemon, laurel, and orange, cypress and cedar, while the ivy ran riot. Again in row-boats we glided over the sparkling waters, and resuming a steamer were conveyed for our last ride over the beautiful Italian lakes, which unite the charm of the snowy Alps, with the luxuriant vegeta- tion of sunny and fruitful Italy. At Luino we took train for Switzerland. CHAPTER XV. SWITZERLAND. A new face at the door! "Le Roi est mort. Vive le Roi!' Farewell, fair Italy! cynosure of youth's romantic dream; still well beloved. Enter, and welcome! land of beetling cliff and roaring torrent, of appalling glacier, and snow-crowned mount, — of William Tell, of Winkelried who "cried Make way for Liberty! and died" — land of Calvin and Zwingli; land of the freedom-loving Swiss. The first change of nationality appeared at the railway stations when we stopped. Here were fair haired, blue-eyed Saxons instead of the brunette type to which we had become accustomed. Bellinzona where we pass the night is very picturesque. Nearly engirt by mountains, an arsenal and prison rises on an isolated hill; two ancient castles are seen to the east, and a pilgrim chapel is perched loftily. I take an after-dinner stroll across the enclosed plain where lies the town, and breakfast next morning at the unusual hour of 5:15 for an early passage through St. Gothard. The tunnel is nine and a quarter miles in length, the longest tunnel in the world; begun in 1872, completed in 1882, at a cost of ten million dollars. At the center of the tunnel it is 3779 feet 204 Switzerland So5 above sea level; its beginning is at Airolo on the southern side, and it ends at Gceschenen. Its ac- complishment is a vast feat, its three loops, rising one above another, are a marvel of engineering skill, and the views from the observation car are most startling and impressive. Emerging from the tunnel's mouth at Gceschenen, we take landaus in the sunny morning for an all day's drive over the FURCA PASS one of the wildest and grandest in Switzerland. Up we rise through a rocky defile while the rushing river Reuss sings from a gorge below. The scenery grows in savage wildness and mountain charm, as we reach the fall of the river, where it breaks into white foam beneath the Devil's Bridge, that ' From ridge to ridge Leaps across the terrible chasm Yawning beneath us black and deep, As if in some convulsive spasm The summits of the hills had cracked And made a road for the cataract That raves and rages down the steep." The legend is that the Devil destroyed every other bridge that ever spanned this abyss, but allowed this to stand on the condition that whoever passed over it first, should be his; the Abbot on its completion threw over it a loaf of bread, and a dog sprang after it, and thus the Devil was defeated. The fall is about a hundred feet in height. We came into a peaceful vale in which is Ander- matt where we breakfasted substantially at 10 A. M. 206 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS at Hotel Bellevue, and then began our climb of 2 I miles to the Rhone glaciers. The route was grand and exciting. We wound along the edge of great depths, all the while approaching higher altitudes. "Hills peeped o'er hills and Alps on Alps arose." The date was Friday, June 13th and the Pass through the deep snows had just been cut open 36 hours be- fore, and our caravan of six landaus, was the first of the year to pass. We met no other tourists and only a peasant's one-horse wagon. Our purpose was to visit the wonderland before the rush of summer travel (from July 15th to September 15th) should fill the hotels. It proved "a crazy day" as our Swiss driver said. Clouds shut us in, and for a little while we were in a snow storm on those rugged and awful altitudes. Happily it soon ceased, leaving an inch or two of fresh fallen snow upon our track. The snow banks were sometimes ten feet high on either side of our carriage, and we amused ourselves with reaching out our hands and gathering snow balls as we rode, to pelt each other. A second flurry of falling snow again enveloped us; but also abated. After hours of zig-zag climbing we should at length have been re- warded at the summit with a sublime prospect, had it been clear. Yet the views .we had in that never to be forgotten journey, were indescribably grand and awful. We were 7,992 feet above. sea level; we had passed the Galenstock and Furka horn. We were in Nature's vast and majestic temple, where as high priestess of the Almighty and Eternal she reveals her awful secrets SWITZERLAND 207 of power. How great is God! and how puny is man ! • These are the palaces of Nature whose vast walls Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps And throned Eternity in icy halls Of cold sublimity; where forms and falls The avalanche, the thunderbolt of snow. All that expands the spirit, yet appalls Gathers 'round their summits as to show How earth may pierce to heaven, yet leave vain man below.'* There is no tenderness in Nature's face on these appalling heights, she is rather a stern judge, a terri- ble archangel, the impersonation of Justice and Law, than a compassionate friend. I was glad to see her once in this sublime and awful mood. The Rhone glacier, the largest in Europe, proceeds from this chain of mountains (of which Mount St. Gothard is the center) from five thousand to fifteen thousand feet high. It is a vast ice-cataract or frozen lake two thousand feet in depth, of a pale emerald tint, with a broken crust of white, its surface jagged and seamed. After viewing the glacier, we now be- gan the descent, which was not without peril, We wound around the verge of awful precipices, we zig- zagged over steep grades, whirling rapidly around curves, where a few inches further would have dashed us over terrible depths. Once the carriage in which I rode came so near going over, that our Swiss con- ductor contemplated a leap from beside the driver's seat, to avoid the fatal plunge, and a lady just behind us, said her heart was in her mouth to see our peril. Realizing the impossibility of protecting myself, I turned my eyes away. Shakespeare says 208 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS "Come on, sir; here's the place: stand still. How fearful And dizzy 'tis, to cast one's eyes so low; * * * I'll look no more; Lest my brain turn, and the deficient sight Topple down headlong." By the kind providence of God, all our six landaus descended in safety to the Rhone glacier hotel, where we soon had a blazing and most enjoyable fire upon the hearth which we surrounded. An excellent dinner was shortly in readiness for us, notwithstanding the' place is one of the most solitary imaginable. It con- sisted of soup, fish croquettes well fried, tender roast beef with pats of mashed potatoes and gravy, string beans, chicken, pudding and sauce. We enjoyed a pleasant evening together, singing hymns, and sitting around the fire. The night was so cold, I slept under double blankets, and a feather bed in addition. In the morning, much refreshed, I rose early and walked to the rapid brook, which is the incipient noble Rhone river, gathered a great handful of fresh golden cow- slips, growing near heavy patches of snow. We had seen, on our way, Alpine roses, blue forget-me-nots, buttercups, dandelions, double cow- slips. Goats were feeding on the fresh green grass. Our ride to-day to Brieg, where we took rail for Martigny, 90 miles, was one of unalloyed delight. The scenery was not savage and desolate, but beauti- fully wild. How charming were those flowery meads, and the green mountain-sides with their pretty Swiss chalets! We alighted just for the pleasure of gath- ering lovely yellow pansies, pink verbenas, blue forget- me-nots, double cowslips, sweet-briar roses, and SWITZERLAND 209 other flowers. How sweet they were! The fields were a great garden. Here it was the time of hay making, and women were swinging the scythe beside men, or like Maud Muller were raking hay. Enclos- ing these blooming meads were mountains covered with evergreen, cedars, larches, pines, and other varieties of trees. Here and there we caught glimpses of snow covered peaks, and another glacier, as we approached Brieg. Sunday w T e rested in Martigny, a village of 5000, — Catholic, walled in by mountains. Half way up a foothill rose an old Roman Fort. We chanced to be there on the day of their church pageant, which was a procession of some hundreds. First walked women wearing long white veils, the "Sisters" wearing beside the veil, a dress of white. Each had a religious book or rosary in hand and repeated paternosters; then followed a school of girls, then boys, all marching two by two, under care of a priest, then the Host carried by six, with the chief padre in the center, then the local population. They proceeded to the church, listened to music, and came out, dipping their fingers in holy water, and dispersed. June 1 6th. Our Monday's drive of 23 miles was to Chamouni over the TETE NOIRE PASS. The morning was bright, and it was a most inter- esting, grand, beautiful, exciting route. We were going up grade, and occasionally walked over a cut- 210 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LA DS off while the carriage took the longer, easier curve. The descent was amazingly steep, so that all, save two elderly ladies, were biddsn walk. How like a picture lay the green valley far below! After the noon-halt at a hotel conveniently located there, we resumed our descent over a region possibly the most charming in the Alpine wonderland. Now we rode on the verge of a precipice and heard the hoarse singing of a rushing river at its base, now we traversed a tunnel through a formidable rock. How the mount- ains interlaced each other in graceful curves! It was most grand, beautiful, exciting, delightful. Indeed the range of adjectives was too small to express the emotion stirred, Yet when I am most moved I love ofttimes to drink it all in, in silence, — ordinary words seem such feeble things; almost a profanation. When Webster first viewed Niagara, some looked for a display of rhetoric from the great speaker, but he uttered not a word. A little Frenchman beheld the mighty cataract, and bubbled out: "Magnifique! don't he come down bully?" Prest. Finney saw it, and said in his deep bass, — "Thunderation!" Our boy driver was a careful and capable one, and we duly entered the lovely vale of CHAMOUNI and rested at hotel Couttet. Then came back to memory a song I had often sung at home, with a new meaning born of the scene. "When the heart in golden fancies, To the sway of happiest dreams, SWITZERLAND 211 Back to scenes of beauty glances, Lit by memory's brightest beams, Then T see that vale of fountains, Where the Alp flowers woo the gale, Under all those snow-crowned mountains Shining o'er that beauteous vale, O! Chamouni, sweet Chamouni! O! the vale of Chamouni! When I hear the Alphorn ringing, When Mont Blanc foretells the day, And the breeze of morning bringing Mountain chime and mountain lay, Then once more with rapture glowing, All that mountain land I hail, But my heart with joy o'er flowing Lingers in that beauteous vale. O! Chamouni, sweet Chamouni! O! Chamouni's sweet vale." Mont Blanc rising to the superb height of 15,730 feet, was gracious on our arrival and displayed his royal head in all its shining splendor. The first man known to have ascended Mo' Bla' was de Saussure and his Swiss guide Jacques Balmat in 1789. Of the 15,000 to 20,000 visitors here annually, about a hundred climb its summit each year; but it is peril- ous, and several perished in the attempt soon after our visit. Here to the east is the glacier Mer de Glace; then Aiguille du Midi, Mount Blanc dome, Aiguille du gouter, Glacier du Bossons. On the west side of the valley through which runs the river Arve, are other encircling heights. While my companions ascended the Mer de Glace, I took a long happy ramble, drinking in the silent beauty of the scene. The meditation fit for such an illuminated day is 212 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Coleridge's hymn before sunrise in the Vale of Cham- ounL Thus to the glaciers he speaks: "Motionless torrents! silent cataracts! Who made you glorious as the gates of Heaven Beneath the keen full moon? Who bade the sun Clothe you with rainbows? Who with living flowers Of loveliest blue, spread garlands at your feet? God! — let the torrents, like the shout of nations Answer! and let the ice plains echo, God! ***** Thou, too, hoar Mount! with thy sky-pointing peaks, Thou kingly Spirit throned among the hills, Thou dread Ambassador from earth to Heaven, Great Hierarch! tell thou the silent sky, And tell the stars, and tell yon rising sun, Earth, with her thousand voices, praises God." Next morning an astonishing Diligence, two stories high, was on hand to convey passengers to Geneva, (54 miles). We preferred one that looked less easy to overturn and had a merry ride, singing snatches of gay song to rustic folk along the way. The latter part of the journey was by the newly completed rail- road. At Hotel l'Ecu we spent some pleasant days. Geneva is a beautiful city on the Rhone at the end of limpid lake Leman. It has 68,000 inhabitants, and is the 22d canton of the Swiss confederation. It has most attractive shops with music boxes, watches, et cetera; has handsome gardens, statues, buildings; a picturesque island, and swans in its river which is crossed by fine bridges; while its noble background is the Jura and the Alps. Here Rousseau was born, and Calvin preached and was buried. Here also John Knox ministered to the church. SWITZERLAND 213 It was a rare, red-letter day when taking steamer we crossed the blue waters of beautiful lake Leman for a visit to THE CASTLE OF CHILLON. The lake is crescent-shaped, fifty miles long and nine miles wide, and numerous villages stud its shores. We landed at a small village near our des- tination, and then enjoyed a row over the smooth and shimmering deep to the castle which lies on its mar- gin ; which Byron has graphically depicted in his romantic poem the Prisoner of Chillon. "Lake Leman lies by Chillon's walls: A thousand feet in depth below, Its massy waters meet and flow," The foundation of this powerful poem, which should be read during the excursion, was the imprisonment in the dungeons for his religious faith, of Francois de Bonnivard from 1530 to 1536. We entered the snow-white battlement which rises from the deep water; "A double dungeon, wall and wave Have made, — and like a living grave. Below the surface of the lake The dark vault lies wherein we lay, We heard it ripple night and day." From Chillon's walls, we rowed back to shore, and returned by a steamer to beautiful Lausanne (62 miles) on the north bank of the Lake of Geneva. We stopped at Hotel Richmont, whose fine situation part way up the bluff, commands a most charming prospect, of its own pleasing gardens and the city 214 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS below, and the tranquil lake beyond. In the twilight it was a poetic, enchanting vision. It is a steep ascent to the Gothic Protestant cathedral, which dates back to 1235-75, where Calvin and others in 1536 held a debate on the religious issues of the period which resulted in a victory for Protestantism; but a few of us climbed it, and felt the view of the historic church, and the city lying below was rewarding. It is 164 steps down to the market place. Part of the way we descended by stairs.— Here Gibbon resided while at work on his history. From Lausanne we went by train to the capitol of Switzerland, Berne. Taking carriage we rode to the fine old gothic cathedral, to the bear-pits where the bears are cared for at the city's expense. We saw a quaint clock-tower, and an amusing Ogre fountain, representing an Evil man with boys and girls sticking out of his pockets, while he devours a child. It might impersonate retribution overtaking the naughty youth. We saw the Federal Palace where the Congress is held. Our next destination was Interlaken; which we reached by a short passage by boat on the charming little lake Thun, which is only 2 1-4 miles wide, and twelve miles long; after which we enjoyed the novelty of riding in the upper story of an observation railway-car, arriving at In- terlaken, after a ride of 95 miies from Lausanne at 5:30 P. M. We were taken to Hotel Beau Rivage. Interlaken is a queen-rose of the Alpine garden of summer resorts. It is very charming. As its name indicates it is in the glen between the lakes Thun SWITZERLAND 215 and Brienz; a center for excursions. Through it runs the swift flowing Aare, it has long avenues shaded by noble trees, along which are ranged attractive hotels and shops of wondrous wood carvings; for the near village of Brienz employs 800 workmen in mak- ing these lovely articles; foothills lie about it like reclining giants, while to the south are the glorious, glistening white peaks of Jungfrau and Silverhorn; a very popular resort. Our visit, June 21-2-3 was timed to avoid the rush at the height of the season which begins July 15, as thereby we secured better accommodations at the hotels. The Jungfrau, seen from Interlaken, is as glorious as the king of mountains, Mont Blanc, from the sweet vale of Chamouni. Each day this bride of the sky shone upon us pure and stainless, radiant and unap- proachable. The legend of the young wife as it was told me was this: the king of the storm-winds saw a beautiful maiden, and coveted her for his bride. So he tore her from her father whose darling she was, breaking his aged heart, and bore her to his habita- tion among the clouds, and ever since, that snow white peak has been called the Jungfrau or the Young wife. Rising from the Lauterbrunner Thai, it is 13,671 feet above sea level. An ideal drive it was of seven and a half miles to that rock girt glen, where leaps the Dust-brook, (Staubbach) nine hundred and eighty unbroken feet. We rode into a romantic, lovely canon, to the rippling music of the Fluchenen, rushing at the base of a rocky defile. In such lovely scenes one could delight to linger long; its recollec- tion is bright and unfading. 21G GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Presto! a day of varied travel; first to lake Brienz by rail; then a boatride thereon, passing the Giessbach Falls, where a mountain stream dances and coquets with the high rock, leaping away from it in seven graceful cascades, like a maiden enwrapped in her white bridal veil, that refuses to be caught, and "dares to be free!" We pass Brienz, and take train over the Brunig Pass, a new and delightful Scenic route completed only two years before, reaching the height °f 3395 f eet < with a maximum grade of 18 feet to the too We catch glimpses of the Grundenwald, the Eiger, the Grimsel mountains. We note that the tiled roofs of the houses along the way are weighted by considerable stones at intervals. The first story is stone or white cement; the houses are broad, with projecting roofs and many windows. Everywhere haying was in process; the fields cheerful with both men and women at work, the latter more frequently shaking or raking hay, but sometimes swinging the scythe. We emerge from a tunnel to behold a new and wondrous panorama. We are in the region of snows, the scenery is bold and striking. We skirt a lake lying far below our level, its color a wondrous blending of emerald and blue. We descend rapidly to Alpnach, and proceed immediately to Lucerne, but postpone our visit there for an excursion to-day to the Righi to see the sunset and sunrise on its summit. The Righi Kulm, the chief peak of the Righi group, lies distinct and alone, separating three lakes, and reaching a height above them of 4,470 feet, (nearly SWITZERLAND 217 6000 feet above sea level). Leaving the steamer by which we came from Lucerne, at Vitznau, we take the cogwheel railway up to the top. Now we realize how the world looks to one in a balloon. At first the prospect is very beautiful. Still on we rise, and the surfaces below, even foothills of considerable height, look to us flat and level. The sensation is exciting. In an hour and fifteen minutes we step on the summit. We stop for the night at Hotel Righi Kulm, perched like an eagel's nest almost upon the highest pinnacle. We have traveled sixty miles to-day in varied scenes; and now we watch the dying Day. Next morning I am up betimes, to see the sunrise from Righi. "You ladies," said the wag of our party, "are four o'clocks." "No," responded a fair one, "we are morning glories!" How early rising sharpens the wits! A Swiss man winds the Alpine horn. This morn- ing's chill is penetrating but it is the opportunity of a lifetime, and we are patient. Slowly and impress- ively the tints of the Eastern horizon light up and melt together, dull gra) 7 into purple and vermilion, and the majestic orb of Day shines forth effulgent. The early dawn is always the sweetest hour of day, and men would find it so on lower levels did they arise to view. The chief charm of sunrise on the Righi was in the hemicircle of snow crowned mount- ains, queens, every one, who grew white with joy as their bold lover, the Sun god, kissed their pale faces. What a magnificent panorama that was! For one hundred and twenty miles extended that line of snowy 218 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Alps, including the Bernese range, the Wetterhorn, the Jungfrau and others of that quarter, the Juras, Vosges, Suabian mountains, and the Black Forest with many a town and lake between. Sunrise gilding such a view was one of the supreme moments of a lifetime. I expect to see no such comprehensive, and glorious a scene as this, again on earth, and it seems a prelude to the glory of the Jerusalem on high. We spent the day in sailing hither and thither over the superb lake of the Four Cantons, which is in the shape of a cross. Its waters, of the loveliest color, are enclosed by lofty crag and precipitous cliff, alter- nating with foothills and gentle slopes covered with fresh verdure and dotted with Swiss chalets. Its local histories intensify the interest Here we passed the spot where Tell leaped ashore from his enemies on Gessler's boat. On the platte is Tell's Chapel to commemorate the hero and his deed. Hard by was a monument to the poet Schiller. At Fluelen we are near the place where Tell shot the apple from the head of his son without harming the boy. We returned for a visit in beautiful LUCERNE. It is situated at the outlet of the lake of the same name, between the Righi and Pilatus. Directly after arrival, we repaired to the church where a grand organ concert is given for the delectation of tourists, at 6 o'clock. The imitation of a storm, and falling rain was perfect and wonderful. The Lion monument which we saw next day is a SWITZERLAND 219 masterpiece of sculpture after a model by Thorwald- sen. It lies in a grotto cut from the same rock as the monument, and represents a dying Lion protect- ing the Bourbon shield. It is in commemoration of the heroic Swiss guards who lost their lives in defend- ing Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette. The lion's side is pierced by a spear, and the pain of the noble animal is pathetically expressed in the wonderfully chiseled head The Glacier gardens are of extraordinary interest. Here were rocks containing numerous fossils of sea shells, showing that the sea once covered all this country at the foot of the Alps. A petrified palm is thought to represent the period when tropical heat here produced a tropical forest. The glacier mills are where, under glacial action, bowlders whirling have worn a spiral passage into the earth. It is argued therefrom that ice once covered the whole northern hemisphere, and the glacier mill is the debris of what may have occurred millions of years ago. Very curious and interesting seemed the Muhlen Bridge at Lucerne with its strange pictorial represen- tations of the Dance of Death. Longfellow in his Golden Legend thus describes that covered Bridge over which we walked. (Elsie.) "How dark it grows! What are these paintings on the walls around us?" (Prince Henry.) "The Dance of Death. All that go to and fro must look upon it, Mindful of what they shall be, while beneath, 220 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LAUDS Among the wooden piles the turbulent river . Rushes, impetuous as the river of life, With dimpling eddies, ever green and bright, Save where the shadow of this bridge falls on it." (Elsie.) "O, yes! I see it now!" (Prince Henry.) "The grim musician Leads all men thro' the mazes of that dance, To different sounds in different measures moving; Sometimes he plays a lute, sometimes a drum, To tempt or terrify." (Elsie.) "What is this picture?" (Prince Henry.) "It is a young man singing to a nun, Who kneels at her devotions, but in kneeling Turns round to look at him; and death meanwhile, Is putting out the candles on the altar! ***** Here he has stolen a jester's cap and bells And dances with the Queen. ***** And here, the heart of the new wedded wife, Coming from church with her beloved lord, He startles with the rattle of his drum, Under it is written 'Nothing but death shall "separate thee and me!"' (Elsie.) "And what is this that follows close upon it?" (Prince Henry.) "Death, playing on a dulcimer. Behind him, A poor old woman, with a rosary, Follows with the sound and seems to wish her feet Were swifter to o'ertake him. Underneath, The inscription reads, 'Better is Death than Life." ***** (Elsie.) "The grave itself is but a covered bridge Leading from light to light, through a brief darkness!" From Lucerne to Schaffhausen is seventy-seven miles. Our final Swiss trip was hither to view the Falls of the Rhine. Leaving charming Lucerne, and SWITZERLAND 221 the glorious vision of Righi Kulm, and Pilatus, "shak- ing his cloudy tresses loose in air," — we take train, stopping off at Zurich at the foot of her beautiful lake Zurich, to see her library and rare manuscripts, the Polytechnic school with its splendid view and the famous city. Its university is patronized by both Swiss and Germans. Arriving at Schaffhausen, we drive to the Bellevue hotel near Neuhausen. Before us is the largest water- fall in Europe. The Rhine is here 380 to 400 feet in width; and the descent by rapids, whirlpool, and final plunge is 100 feet, where it breaks into beautiful white clouds of foamy spray. A castle and large hotels crown the well wooded bluffs; a terraced garden and groves cover the steep declivity to the waters edge. A brilliant illumination at night with colored lights and skyrockets made the scene a fairy land of magical enchantment and splendor. CHAPTER XVI. RHENISH GERMANY. After many days of high nerve-tension in the won- derful and glorious Alps, it is comfortable to relax the strain of the harp of a thousand strings, and come down to a quiet life, if not rapture-inspiring at least not terrifying. At Singen we passed from Switzerland to Rhenish Germany, that part of Germany traversed by the Rhine. Here the custom-house examination is a mere formality. We note that German houses are narrower than the Swiss, more Gothic in shape; the framework shows in the cemented or plastered wall; the roofs are tiled and sometimes thatched. Near the track we passed an insignificant stream, unnoticed by most of the passengers, yet was it the beginning of one of the longest, most important rivers of Europe, the Danube, on which we afterward sailed to the great Austrian Capital. It flows on, increas- ing in volume and majesty, carrying the traffic of many kingdoms, until it empties into the Black Sea, Its length is eighteen hundred miles. What an illus- tration of life — the life of a beneficent man from youth to hoary age! A rill in its beginning, a hand 222 RHENISH GERMANY 223 could dam it, and turn its course; but who could turn the mighty river? Like a good man its pathway is known by greener banks. It gathers something from every land through which it passes; but it gives more than it takes. Blessings attend its way. A river overflowing its banks and spreading devastation is like a life powerful, but unchecked, unregulated, the sport and curse of its own passions; and having well or ill fulfilled the first great stage of Destiny, soul and river enter the vaster unknown Deep, per- haps to both a Black, black sea. We thought we were through with mountains but its legend -associated, spectral Black Forest has, be- side its haunted woods, a range of very rugged, bold, distinct and separate hills. To pass (hem required the skillful engineering of him who constructed the Mount Cenis Tunnel between France and Italy, of nearly eight miles length. In and out, and up and down, and through their very heart we go, in thirty seven short tunnels. The views are exceedingly wild and romantic. These hills of the Black forest are from iooo to 2000 feet high and covered with pine forests. They are in the grand Dutchy of Baden. We also pass the much frequented summer watering-place Baden Baden, to which about 50,000 tourists go annually. Our route runs a few miles east of the Rhine, and in the same direction, northward. While journeying to Heidelburg Castle, it will be profitable to recall something of the history and present political status of the great Empire we have newly entered, 224 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS GERMANY. When Julius Caesar effected the conquest of Eng- land, he was successfully resisted by the semi-savage nations which occupied the region north of France. In Anno Domini 800, the realm ruled by Charle- magne included a considerable portion of what is now the German Empire. Soon after his death, Germany (in 843) became a separate state, ruled successively by Carlovingian, Franconian, Saxon and Suabian kings. In 1254 with Rudolf I., began a new line of rulers from the House of Hapsburg or of Austria. One of the most eminent of these was Emperor Charles V., a brilliant figure, cotemporary with Henry VIII. of England and the energetic Francis I. of France, and in whose time (1520- 15 56) was the Reformation under Martin Luther whose keynote was struck by the publication of his theses against indulgences in 1 5 17. In 1552 the Emperor was constrained to sign a treaty granting the Protestants free religious tolera- tion, which was formally sanctioned by the Diet of Augsburg in 1555. Thus it was in Germany that the Reformation gained its first political triumph. During the period of Queen Elizabeth's reign (1 558 to 1603) the electorate of Brandenburg annexed the small Dutchy of Prussia, and in the latter part of the seventeenth century the elector of Brandenburg promised help in the war of the Spanish Succession if he obtained the crown of Prussia. In 1701 he be- came Frederick I., King of Prussia; one of the ances- tors of the present Emperor William II. of Germany. RHENISH GERMANY 225 He was the first of the Hohenzollerns; they have ruled for nearly 200 years. In 1 71 3 he was succeeded by his son Frederick William L, a bold, rough, public spirited person who drilled a fine army. Frederick II. the Great, was his son. Treated austerely at home, kicked by his father, and fed on bread and water, he ran away. He had good marrow in him, and learned to play the flute, scribbled books, and cultivated a correspondence with Voltaire. He succeeded to the throne in 1745. Capable, energetic, a brave soldier, he engaged in aggressive war with Austria then governed by Maria Theresa, and won. But Austria then formed a league against him, which compelled him in 1756 to a defensive war, which cost to all engaged not less than a million lives. Again his superior ability and that of his army gained the victory. He then set about repairing the losses of his people; prudently and mercifully remitted the taxes of Silesia for six years; gave bounties to soldiers' widows and orphans. His last act before his death in 1786 was to acknowledge the independ- ence of the United States government. He is Carlyle's hero. In a semi-barbarous age, he was no liar or charlatan. His companion for several years at Potts- dam was his early friend, the brilliant Voltaire. Frederick at length rebuked in a silent but effective manner the self-conceit of the illustrious wit, and Voltaire, of whom perhaps Frederick was tired, left affronted. He strengthened his kingdom, so that from numbering two million subjects when he began 226 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS to reign, it numbered six million when he closed, and the treasury had increased from six million thalers to seventy-two millions, He, the noblest of the Hohenzollerns, took for his motto, the king is the first servant of the state. He was an epoch-making man. He left his kingdom stronger than its rival Austria, and Prussia took rank as one of the Five great European Powers. Twenty years after his death, when Napoleon Bonaparte had become the central, figure of Europe, Napoleon detached some of the German principalities from the Empire, and formed the confederation of the Rhine; so frightening the Emperor, Francis II, that in 1806 he resigned the crown of the German Em- pire, and was simply called Emperor of Austria. After the downfall of Bonaparte in 181 5, the German confederation of thirty-nine states was formed; its parliament to meet at Frankfort on the Main, Austria presiding. The Republican Revolutions in France in 1830, and 1848 had profoundly impressed the German people with a desire for constitutional freedom; but the kings and princes remained absolutists More- over Prussia and Austria remained rivals for preemi- nence. Still there was a popular desire for greater strength by unification, which had been increased by the Custom's Union by which all goods were passed to and fro between the several German states without duty. Accordingly they offered the imperial crown as Emperor to Frederick William IV; but he declined it, feeling the power conferred was insufficient to RHENISH GERMANY 227 maintain authority. He died in 1861 and was succeeded by William the First, his brother, as king of Prussia. He chose Otto von Bismarck for his prime minister, who was of an ancient baronial house in the north of German) 7 . Bismarck's mother seems to have been a woman of discretion, for she had sent him for edu- cation to that University where she thought his temp- tations to Drinking would be least. He was forty- seven years old when elected chancellor. He had already figured in politics as an independent character. King William I. and his minister resolved to enlarge and strengthen the army. Against the consent of the government, theycarricd through their plans, Bis- marck declaring that "the conditons of the times must be met by iron and blood." In 1864 the value of a great disciplined army of intelligent men, trained in the public schools, appeared in the Schleswig-Hol- stein contest with Denmark, in which Prussia was victorious. The mutual jealousy of Austria and Prussia led to a war between them in 1866, when Bismarck showed his strategic ability by making an alliance with Italy, so that Austria was beset on two sides; and, her forces being divided, she lost the day at Sadowa. Prussia triumphant became the greatest of the two rival powers. Bismarck made also a secret alliance with the Southern German states that in case of war they would rally to Prussia's defense. The national liberty party sprang into existence. In 1870, Napoleon III. desiring to cripple Prussia, declared war, counting on the support of the southern German states. Then Bismarck's war policy and 228 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LAUDS strategic foresight appeared in having secured those Southern states by his previous secret alliance. In the battles of 1 870-1 the German allied army took Napoleon prisoner at Sedan. Napoleon I. had carried off the sword of Frederick the Great and the car of victory from the Brandenburg gate. These insults and his brutal treatment of their beautiful Queen Louise the mother of William I. had long rankled in Prussian hearts. Now it was their turn to be victors and humiliate France. So in the beauti- ful royal palace of Versailles, William I was crowned Emperor of united Germany. Von Moltke the Gen- eral in charge, and Bismarck were declared by the emperor to have saved the day. On the death of William I, Frederick the III. was for a few months his successor, and then succumbed to cancer. His wife is Victoria, the eldest daughter of queen Victoria, and their son William II. is the present Emperor. By the splendid victory in the Franco-Prussian war,, Germany took rank as first of European Powers. We rejoice that the state enjoying this distinction is protestant. Here, in the valley of the Neckar river, near where it enters the Rhine plain, we see the old town Heidelberg and high up the hill above it, the pictur- esque ruin of the Castle. Here we found refreshment at the pleasant hotel Victoria, and enjoyed a Sabbath of golden sunshine and peace, attending a protestant service. "What is so rare as a day in June?" Our last, June 30th was spent in a visit to the RHENISH GERMANY 229 celebrated University founded in the fourteenth century by Count Ruprecht, — to the Castle, — and to Konigstuhl, where from a grand height a magnifi- cent prospect is enjoyed, after which we had a quaint cable ferry on the Neckar river. The University build- ings are plain but contain valuable museums and an extensive Library. The attendance is large, and there were 800 corps students who have duelling for an object. In one room I saw some of the naughty students' pranks, perhaps inspired by beer; the walls and ceiling were defaced by scratches and drawings; one which may have burlesqued the Faculty represent- ed a considerable row of cats, each seated upright, his tail curled decorously around his fore paws. Well said the poet Longfellow: "He who drinks beer thinks beer; and he who drinks wine thinks wine; and he who drinks midnight thinks midnight." It is interesting to know that an Italian lady Olym- pia Morata, used to give lectures on philosophy in Heidelberg; and her tomb is here. The magnificent Castle consists of a dozen palaces and towers, built in the diverse architecture of differ- ent centuries. It was founded in 7294. Its site is high up a hill, 330 feet above the Neckar; the town lies in the valley; westward the blue Alsatian mount- ains "seem to watch and wait alway." The Otto Henry's building is in splendid Renaissance style. The Frederick building is adorned with statues, and has the great tun, one of the four vast wine casks of Germany. Its capacity was 40,000 gallons. There have not been wanting ghosts for the old castle; 230 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS perhaps those who drank heartily from the great tun saw "spirits" and had blue devils. There was said to be a ghost of V-irgin Mary haunting Ruprecht's Tower, and a devil the dungeon. The originals were a disguised lady, and a monk personating Satan who received a deadly sword thrust. To the castle the good protestant Elector-palatine, Frederick, the friend of Luther brought home his English bride, who was a daughter of James I, King of England, and a grand daughter of Mary Queen of Scotts. The beautiful English garden was laid out for her. The walls of the thick tower, 22 feet thick, were blown up by the French in 1689, and lightning struck the castle in 1764. Longfellow remarks: "The cunning hand of Art was busy for six centuries in adorning these walls ; the mailed hands of Time and War have defaced and overthrown them in less than two. Next to the Alhambra of Granada, the castle of Heidelberg is the most magnificent ruin of the Middle Ages." Two hours ride by rail took us fifty-five miles to Frankfort on the Main, a city of 137,000 inhabitants, where from the time of Barbarossa, German emperors were elected. Was there just in season to repair to a great park and see a great torchlight procession in honor of their late burgomaster, now elected Secretary of finance, to remove to the Capital, Berlin. Frank- fort enjoys the distinction of being the birthplace and home of the pride of his nation, Goethe. We were taken to see Luther's House, Goethe's house, the exquisitely beautiful statue of Ariadne by Danneker ? RHENISH GERMANY 231 the statue of Gutenberg, German inventor of printing — Goethe's and Schiller's statues, the Romer or ancient town- hall where the emperors were elected and banqueted. On the wall thereof was the just and forceful inscription, "The tale of one man is but half a tale, in fairness you must hear what both have to say," — a sentiment deserving wide consideration and acceptance. Much social injustice arises from a violation of this principle. We saw the cathedral where for hundreds of years the German emperors were crowned. Frankfort dates from 794, the time of Charlemagne; a cheerful and handsome place. In the Jewish quarter the Rothschilds originated. A short ride of 25 miles by train brought us to the celebrated watering place Weisbaden, where we stopped at the beautiful hotel Victoria. We walked amid its shady parks, saw its playing, flashing fount- ains, and tasted its Kochbrunnen. These warm saline waters, beneficial for rheumatism are tested by 60,000 visitors annually. Doubtless the daily walk, fresh air, and liquid are the chief agents of cure, and the same regimen at home, if men would but employ it before breakfast, with simple pure water instead of mineral water would secure much the same good result. But then human nature despises the blessings which are simple, cheap and near at hand. Next morning, we take the steam tram to Biebrich for a sail down THE ENCHANTING RHINE. It is a broad and winding stream, between deep banks covered here and there with fruitful vineyards, 232 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS with many a village and town set like a radiant jewel above its flowing bosom, and many a massive mediae- val tower and picturesque castle, or frowning fortress along its craggy heights. It is a scene and day for poetry, and a poet may best describe it. 'Below me in the vale, the swift and mantling river Flows on triumphant through these lovely regions Etched with the shadows of its sombre margent, And soft reflected clouds of gold and argent! Yes, there it flows, forever, broad and still,, As when the vanguard of the Roman legions First saw it from the top of yonder hill. How beautiful it is! Fresh fields of wheat, Vineyard and town, and tower with fluttering flag, The consecrated chapel on the crag, And the white hamlet gathered round its base, — Like Mary sitting at her savior's feet And looking up at his beloved face! ***** How sad the grand old castle looks! Alas! the merry guests no more Crowd through the hospitable door; No eyes with youth and passion shine, No cheeks grow redder than the wine; No song, no laugh, no jovial din Of drinking wassail to the pin; But all is silent, sad and drear." Longfellow. At the Niederwald we see a colossal figure on the height; it is the new national Monument. On the west coast opposite, the yellow sunlight falls "On the vineclad hills of Bingen, fair Bingen on the Rhine." What is yon tower rising from an island ledge near to the shore? It is the famous Mouse tower, where tradition said that an Archbishop who had withheld RHENISH GERMANY 233 grain from starving peasants calling them "corn eat- ing mice," was in this very tower devoured alive by mice! Further on, the cliff is very bold, and the river grows narrow, with whirpools under the rock precipice, which rises perpendicularly to the height of 433 feet. This is the haunted Lurlei or Lo-re-lei, where sailors were said to be lured to destruction. On either shore beyond are many supremely in- teresting castle ruins. At Coblence, the confluence of the Rhine and blue Moselle, we left the stream for a promenade to Queen Augusta's handsome palace, and through a beautiful avenue beside the Rhine. Our return to Frankfort from Coblence was by rail, 136 miles, where we saw the same scenery from the land instead of from the water* and in reverse order. At Mayence I caught a glimpse of its splendid cathe- dral, specially interesting for its monument to Fastrada, the greatly loved wife of Charlemagne. That illustrious monarch had a palace in this vicinity. A day in white was that in which I sailed down the Rhine. Nothing can be more picturesque than those romantic ruins of gray old castles. Our Hudson may be as noble a stream, but its palatial villas lack the charm of antiquity and historic association. Yet it is just matter of congratulation that the feudal days are over, and the era of sweeter manners, justerlaws, and fuller recognition of the rights of all men has been ushered in. Still rises, before my eyes, and lingers in my memory that strange wild haunted cliff, the Lorelei. I have no English poem that describes it, and have 234 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS therefore essayed making an original translation of the German poem into English verse, THE LORELEI. I know not what the meaning is I am so sad to-day. A tale, the outward sense denies, Comes from the Far away. The air is cool, the shadows grow, The Rhine waves gently run, The mountain summits gleam and glow Touched by the setting sun. The peerless maiden on the height Sits marvelously fair. Her golden gems are all alight, She combs her golden hair. She combs it with a comb of gold, And meanwhile sings a lay, That in a wondrous volume rolled Is matchless melody. The sailor in his little skiff It stirs with ecstacy. He does not see the rocky reef, His gaze is fixed on high. I think the billows chaunt and moan The end of sailor and boat, That with her sweet entrancing song The Syren maid hath wrought. CHAPTER XVII. BAVARIA AND AUSTRIA. Our next departure was for Bavaria. Famous for its beer, we noted that hops was a frequent product of the land. How quaint and delightful is Nuremburg, or, as they call it there, Nurnberg! In mediaeval times it was one of the richest of cities. It now contains 105,000 inhabitants, and is noted for manufacturing children's toys and lead pencils, The river Pegnitz divides it into two parts; each side is called after its principal church, the St. Siebald side, the St. Law- rence side. We were at hotel Strauss, near the majestic St. Lawrence church, which is ancient, dating to 1278-1477, built of a rich red sandstone, and a fine Gothic in style. It has a very handsome Bride's door. We were in full sight of its fine rose window. Here is the wonderfully wrought ciborium 66 feet high, by the sculptor Krafft. St. Siebald's Gothic basilica of the fourteenth century is one of the finest in Germany. He was reputed a miracle working saint and his remains are in an oaken casket encased in silver; the whole within the shrine of St. Siebald wrought by Peter Vischer with its multitude of 235 236 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS statues. Thirteen years were Vischer and his sons in constructing this rare work of art, accounted the most exquisite gem of German carving. The shrine rests on snails to show how slow is Progress. A lamp was presented this church with the request that it be kept always burning. So though we visited it in broad day light, there it gleamed, a vivid spot of scarlet, like the fire of an undying love. Beside Krafft and Vischer was the artist painter Albrecht Durer. ''Here where Art was still religion, with a simple reverent heart, Lived and labored Albrecht Durer, the Evangelist of Art: Emigravit is the inscription on the tombstone where he lies; Dead he is not, — but departed, — for the artist never dies. Fairer seems the ancient city, and the sunshine seems more fair That he once has trod its pavement, that he once has breathed its air." In the Durerplatz I saw his statue erected 1840; also the house where he was born. It is said, per- haps untruly, that this good and gentle painter was brought to an untimely end by a scolding wife. Partners who give loose rein to their tongues had best beware. In a Chicago office, one business man had a little coffin, and an image of a little man in it, and underneath the significant words, "This man was talked to death!" — Words are powers. Another of the glorious spirits of Nuremberg was the Cobbler-poet, Hans Sachs, an early Protestant of Luther's time. A chief interest in this quaintest and truly charming city, Nuremberg, I found to be the Castle. It is on an eminence, was built in 1024 by Conrad III, and enlarged by Barbarossa. Beside BAVARIA AND AUSTRIA 237 its antique halls it has two chapels, We find again the inscription, "One man's story is half a story; in justice you must hear both sides," Alas! in the boasted light of the nineteenth century this is some- times neglected by some who claim to be in the front rank of progress, A lime or linden tree in the court- yard is over 700 years old, planted by Queen Cunigunde's hand. The Frothschurm is a few minutes walk from the Castle, and contains chambers and instruments of torture. It was startling to see a life-like effigy of a robber knight, who being appre- hended and confined in the Castle, leaped sitting on his horse over the battlement to the far depth below. An awful plunge ! Of course the horse was killed, but the knight was said to have escaped with his life. I was shown the print of the horse's hoof on the barrier from which he leaped. The Rathhouse or hotel de ville dates partly from 1340, and in part from 1619. Here is a fine picture by Durer, a triumphal march of Maximilian. Here too we saw a fresco of the Guillotine by Weyers, representing an execution two and a half centuries before that instrument was supposed to be invented by him whose name it bears. The picture dates from 1521. In Nuremberg, it being the Fourth of July, we merrily celebrated Independence day, with gay badges of red, white and blue, worn by our party of twenty- eight, with choice bouquets, and several flags of the stars and stripes; and at the dinner sentiments were offered; by our conductor, "The Day we celebrate;" by Mr. C. of Denver, *■ 'The ladies ; " by the young lawyer 238 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LA JDS H., "Our absent friends; " by the Hon. S., "Our suc- cessful Journey, "and by Mrs. R. of Indianapolis, "The gentlemen," toasts being drank in water, standing. Again behold us birds of flight passing southward to imperial Munchen, or MUNICH. the capital of Bavaria, a city of 272,000, on the Isar. It is 122 miles from Frankfort, and we were in season for an evening meal, at Hotel de Bavaria, which is large, and boasts the patronage of emperors, dukes, princes and queens. Here I spent quite a number of days. One ramble led through Ludwig Strasse, a long street of palaces, beginning near the postoffice, with the loggia of the hall of generals which has statuary. Northward there is a monu- ment of Maximilian I, designed by Thorwaldsen, and cast of Turkish cannon captured in war; the Royal and National Theater; the royal residence; Theatiner church of St. Cajetan dating from 1675 with a dome and two towers, in imitation of St. Peter's at Rome; it was a thank offering for an heir, after eight years of childless marriage; the Odeon where I attended Episcopal service; the Stadts Bibliothek or library, containing the archives of the kingdom and a million volumes; reached by a magnificent staircase; with statues of Aristotle, Homer, Hippocrates and Thuci- dydes on the front balustrade; St. Louis church in Byzantine Italian style; the University, and near by the New Academy of Arts, an elegant new building. The street is closed by the Siegesthor or Gate of BAVARIA AND AUSTRIA 239 Victory after the type of the Arch of Constantine at Rome. It is surmounted by the statue of Bavaria standing on a chariot and drawn by lions. It has reliefs representing the deeds of war. On Maximilian-strasse which crosses Ludwig-strasse at right angles, we crossed the small river Isar, which recalled a favorite school recitation of earliest youth, Hohenlinden, and the passage "Dark as midnight was the flow Of Isar rolling rapidly," Beyond was the large and handsome Maximilianeum a civil service school. Munich is rich in her art-collections. The Old Pinakothek contains 1,400 paintings. I noted fine works from the hand of Raphael, Coreggio, Titian, Holbein, Albert Durer and Rubens; paintings by Gerard Douw and Teniers, by Guido Reni, da Vinci, Carlo Dolci, Bartholemaus, Paul Veronese, Giotto, Perugino, M. Angelo. The New Pinakothek contains nineteenth century paintings; also a gallery of Beauties who represent actual life. Here too is a model of Bavaria on a quadriga drawn by lions. Returning I visited the Propylean gate, built in 1862, and adorned with sculptures. It is an admir- able copy of the gateway to the Acropolis at Athens. Near it is the Glyptothek, a handsome Ionic building containing plastic works of art — by Canova, Dan- necker, Thorwaldsen and others. Opposite the Glyptothek is an art-exhibition building in the Corinthian style. In this cluster of three buildings we see the three fundamental forms of Greek archi- tecture, Doric, Ionic, Corinthian. §40 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LAUDS Here too was the Obelisk erected by King Louis I, in memory of 30,000 Bavarians who fell in Prussia in 1812. It is 100 feet in height and cast of conquered guns. We rode to the southwest part of the city where facing a large open square is the Hall of Fame, a Doric Colonnade. It is in recognition of Bavarian merit, and modeled after the Parthenon of Greece Beside it is the statue of Bavaria, 56 feet high, the head so large fivepersonscan stand erect in it. The Glass-palace is an imposing structure, after the model of the London crystal palace, used for exhibitions, and is near the Botanical Gardens. Very interesting is the Royal palace. Here we saw the magnificent rooms of Emperor Charles VII. His imperial bed coverings and curtains were embroidered in gold, and cost 800,000 florins, and forty persons were steadily employed fifteen years in embroidering them. Bonaparte who occupied the room, did not sleep in this bed but set up his camp bed beside it. There are three Kaiser rooms the Charlemagne, Bar- barossa, and Hapsburg rooms. In the treasure chamber were gems worth many millions. The Frauen Kirche or huge brick cathedral is in Gothic style, with two towers topped by round caps, and is a prominent landmark of Munich. En route to the Cathedral, I saw a curious sight. A man and woman were each sawing wood. The saw was of a peculiar construction unlike the Ameri- can. Another woman picked up the sticks, piled them into a hamper, slung its straps over her head BAVARIA AND AUSTRIA 241 onto her shoulders, and carried the burden on her back into the house yard. Munich has a peculiar law regulating marriages. No persons without capital may marry without per- mission from the Institutions for the Poor. As half the births are said to be illegitimate, the intent of the law to prevent pauperism appears to be frustrated. While at Munich, the Passion play was given at Ober-Ammergau. I had promised myself the pleas- ure of this extraordinary spectacle, which among the simple hearted people of the Tyrol seems to have a solemnity and sacredness which would not attend a like presentation in our own country. I felt it a keen deprivation when it became apparent that to attend it I must travel on the Sabbath which I did not feel at liberty to do. Kind friends said, "This is the opportunity of a life time. You will probably never have another such chance," (as the exhibition has occurred usually once in ten years). "You might make an exception this time." The temptation, was strong but I could not see it either "a work of mercy or necessity" and while I did not judge the conscience of others, I could not see my way clear to go. This may be puritanical, but is not the danger of our times — too great laxity on the Sabbath? And if our principles do not stand by us, or we by them, in moments of temptation, of what use or force are they ? 1 had the longer stay in Munich in consequence, and contented myself with reading the Passion play and procuring some of the very fine photographs of the actors, which were obtainable in Munich. 242 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS July 8th we visited CHIEM SEE. and Lu lwig's Palace, the most splendid in Europe, designed to be another Versailles. It lies two hours east of Munich, by rail, upon an island in a small lake. Only a portion of the rooms have been com- pleted and furnished but they are wonderfully gorgeous and sumptuous. The "chamber of parade" is decked in purple velvet, silk and gold; the council chamber is light blue and gold, with a French time piece from which, every time the hour strikes, a statuette of Louis XIV. comes out of a niche, the courtiers bow before him and retire. The gallery of mirrors is considered the longest apartment existing. It is furnished in blue velvet with gold lilies. The "chamber of peace" is in blue and gold; "of war" in red and gold. The royal bed- chamber which King Ludwig (or Louis) II. occupied has a blue velvet carpet, and the most exquisite furnishing to correspond; with a dressing-room in pink silk tapestry, a writing-room in green and gold; a boudoir of light blue and gold with hanging garlands of roses of porcelain; a dining-room in purple and gold, with a table which disappears through a trap door when a spring is pressed, returning with fresh dishes and a new course. Ludwig was a strange man; he would not have servants in the dining room at meal time. He would not allow his own mother to enter his beautiful palace. Such a spirit, however refined his tastes, must have been unhappy and made BAVARIA AND AUSTRIA 243 others unhappy. It was the natural sequence that he should suicide. He was called the mad king:. After pleasant sailing over the lake, we came on by rail ninety-four miles from Munich to SALZBURG. once the greatest city of southern Germany, and with a most interesting history that goes back to the first century after the Christian era. It was the military Juvavum of the Romans; and a Celtic settlement before their time. Salzburg is the most picturesque and superbly beautiful city of Germany. Humbolt ranked Naples, Constantinople and Salzburg the three most beautiful places in Europe and perhaps in the world. It has been likened to Edinburgh, which in natural features it resembles; but is the wilder of the two. It is at the boundary between Germany and Austria, and was for a time an independent principality. Here were Salt, Copper, Gold, and Silver mines. One of the important events of its history, the unfortunate effects of which are felt to this day, was in 1731, the Emigration Edict, by which salt miners, woodmen, burghers, and landed proprietors, who were Protest- ant were deprived of their occupations and possess- ions, and forced to flee the country. The adherents of the evangelical faith formed the Salzbund, and as their token of faithful adhesion they "licked" salt. The table where this was done is still exhibited at Schwarzach. The effect of the edict was the loss of 30,000 of the best and most intelligent inhabitants, 244 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS and by it the mining industry was ruined. To the credit of Frederick William I, be it said he received the oppressed and persecuted citizens into Prussia, and some of them formed a colony at Ebenezer in Georgia in the United States. For many years Salzburg was alternately annexed to Austria, Bavaria, and Austria again; in 1861 "it was endowed with a separate government and diet." The railway from Vienna to Salzburg and Munich was constructed in i860; which with other recent enterprises have greatly advanced its material pros- perity. A cable railway to the Castle Hohensalzburg, and an electric lift to the Monksberg are projected. Its situation is a natural basin between Mountains whose verdant meadows are traversed by two precipi- tous crags, between which flows the silvery Salzach river. To the east from our quarters at Hotel de l'Europe, is the slender horn of the Nockstein and the Gaisberg; in the foreground are the picturesque heights of the Kapuzinerberg, and across the river the castle-fortress Hohensalzburg and the Monchsberg, while in the distance loom lofty mountains, some of them white with snow, the Stauffen, the Untersberg, the Hohe Goll, the Tannengebirge whose lower spurs are crowned with dense woods. Here I indulged in a long solitary stroll. Crossing a verdant plain by a meadow path and country road, I reached at the base of the mountain of the Capu- chins an old arched Roman gateway inscribed Divo Sebastiano Procurate J613. Proceeding through it hAVARlA AND AUSTRIA 245 into the city, I entered St. Sebastian Cemetery, its date inscribed 1600. There were many old crosses at the graves black with the dust of three hundred years. I came to the monument of Constans, Mozart's wife, with heavy moss growing on it. Here was a large circular mausoleum to the memory of Wolf Dietrich, one of the prominent officials of centuries ago. Next the cemetery is St. Sebastian church and the cloisters of the Brotherhood Here in the street I saw the most grotesque and comical turn-out, a cart to which a man, woman, and dog were harnessed. The adjacent inclined plane winding up the Kapuzi- nerberg I climbed till from its precipitous wall I was even with the tops of the churches, and looked down on the tiled house-roofs. The view was fine. De- scending, I passed near the house of Paracelsus, and crossed the Salzach bridge. Before me was a pano- rama of picturesque houses, domes and towers, old portals and fountains, the Cathedral, the fortress- height and the grand overtopping mountains. Here in a busy ancient street was a plain three storied house, where Mozart was born, in the upper story is the Mozart Museum, in the lower the room of his birth. In the Mozart platz I saw his statue. Across the river is the great composer's former residence. In one of the quaint old fountains, waters issue from the mouths of four marble horses. Beyond, passing through quaint portals I entered numerous churches and the Cathedral which has much fine carving within its massive walls. I pursued my way up toward the fortress' dizzy height. House and 246 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS city were far below. I returned through Mirabel! garden lovely with flowers, statuary and flashing fountains. It was here Archbishop Wolf Dietrich built a villa for Salome, to whom he was said to be secretly married. From this beautiful labyrinth I found my way back to hotel Europe; I had been roaming four hours. The sensation when we took cars again for Linz was the presence of a veritable duke in our car. He looked a well-dressed gentleman, neither better nor worse for his title. Salzburg was so foreign, and antique in its build- ings and associations, so grand and charming in its mountain giants, and its stately white-robed peak in the distance so sublime, that 1 left the city of Mozart with regret. We were in Austria, now. After a short three hours' ride I rambled at sunset beside the dark rolling Danube. Mightily had it grown from the shallow brook I first saw it near the Black Forest. The enfolding mountains to whom it owed its life, would not now have known their nursling. Opposite the river my path was skirted by a high bold bluff fringed at its base by peasant cottages. Near the Prinz Karl was a unique column representing clouds, and angels perched upon them. Linz is the capital of upper Austria, with 30,000 inhabitants. From here we sailed by steamer down to Vienna. My companions in travel! "Do you recall that day in June Upon the Danube river?" BAVARIA AND AUSTRIA 247 On moss-grown walls and castled halls We watched the sunbeams quiver, Those light winged joys that went so soon Return no more, — "but never Can I forget that day in June Upon the Danube river." The boatride descending occupies eight or nine hours; the ascent requires nearly twice that time. We found the passage charming, though there are a less number of picturesque ruins than on the banks of the Rhine. We saw the Abbey of St. Florian, Enns strongly fortified with the money paid by Eng- land for the ransom of Richard Coer de Lion, Molk or Milk with its monastery; Durnstan where the Lion-hearted Richard was a prisoner; several inter- esting ruins of castles and buildings, and some fine scenery. CHAPTER XVIII. IN VIENNA. "'The sky is roof of but one family. I will be a citizen of the whole world." Hotel Archduke Charles, Vienna, July 10-14, We are at the capital of Austria and Hungary, the vast and magnificent city, Vienna. It has a population spreading over this plain of the Danube of more than 1,100,000, It is amazing to see a town whose beginning was in the remote ages of antiquity, (for there was a Celtic settlement here, even before the Romans established their fort in the first or second century) looking so fresh and handsome, a city indeed of palaces. It has had a long and varied history. Here the amiable Roman Emperor, Marcus Aurelius, who uttered more than one golden sentiment that rings down the centuries, died in 180, It was desolated by the warlike Huns; made a fief of Charlemagne's great empire; occupied by . the Duke of Austria in 11 56, It heroically resisted the Turks two hundred years ago, and stemmed the moslem invasion fioin Central Europe. For more than five hundred years it was the capital 248 IN U'lENNA 240 of the German empire; Austria using Hungary and Bavaria to maintain its supremacy over Prussia. Vienna is now a new city, as well as an ancient one, and the capital of a re-organized and re-juvenated nation. Old Austria represented the mistaken principles of imperial absolutism, police surveillance crushing out liberty of speech and liberty of the press, intense subserviency to the papal religion and the pope. It ignored popular education, it held Hungary quivering beneath its foot, and it claimed preeminence over Prussia in the German Empire. By the battle of Solferino it lost its beautiful Lombardy, but it was not sufficiently humiliated. In the battle of Sadowa, 1866, the greatest since Waterloo, it had to bend the knee to Prussia, and grant the Hungarians the long refused boon of a separate administration. The re- sults have been most salutary. The New Empire is Austria-Hungary. The Hungarian nation from being disaffected has become loyal. Prussia has formed a German Confederation with Austria left out, and is at peace with Austria. Regulations for public instruc- tion, similar to those of Prussia have been adopted which will render the Austrian nation better educated and so more liberal and powerful. The pope too has lost his grip upon the empire, and though the Catholic religion prevails, I am informed there is a measuie of liberty of worship. The Emperor Francis Joseph I. has reigned since he was a youth of eighteen ; he is now sixty-two; he has had a deal of hard ex- perience which has doubtless taught him wisdom. 250 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS The Empire of Austria-Hungary includes fifty millions of subjects. Railroads are being built, opening up the finest scenery; in 1885 there were about fourteen thousand miles of railroad in the empire; and the administration is seeking to strengthen itself by peace rather than by war; of bloodshed all Europe has had enough. We have devoted the day to sight-seeing, In the Imperial crypt of the Capuchin church we saw iron coffins containing the remains of Charles VI, Leopold II, Emperor Matthias, Maria Theresa, Francis I. of Austria, Maria Louisa the second wife of Napoleon I, for whom he divorced Josephine. Here too is her son, the Duke of Reichstadt, the heir Napoleon desired, to found a family I suppose, and inherit his crown, but how different the end from his plans! Man proposes, but God disposes! It was Napoleon who said "I make circumstances," but he found the narrow limits of his power. Here was Maximilian of Mexico. These people, who fill 115 coffins here, played active parts on the theater of public events, but they have no more of earth now than "a handful of dust neath a coffin lid." That they had once been robed in ermine, and nations waited their beck, stirred no reverence in the crowd that moved rapidly through the crypt to-day, with curious eyes. "Sic transit gloria mundi." 'Twere better far "to live in hearts we love; for this is scarce to die." The Augustan church contains Canova's very- beautiful sculptuary to the memory of Maria Christina, another daughter of Maria Theresa. It bore the inscription : IN VIENNA 251 Uxori: ontime: Alberti. From the colossal equestrian statue of Joseph II. we went to see the imperial Riding school. Here a young scion of nobility was riding around in a circle of sawdust in an enclosed yard, attended by his riding teacher. In the imperial Treasury we saw a dazzling array of gems, jewels, crowns, relics, of immense value. Money had purchased them at great cost, buc I thought of the ornament of a meek and quiet spirit which is beyond all price. Few may have an earthly crown, but all may have the better spiritual gift. Yet how few strive to attain it! We enjoyed the valuable collections of painting and sculpture in the Belvidere. There was a room of the prolific Rubens' paintings; Raphael's Madonna and the cherubs — The Annunciation — Herodias with the head of John the Baptist. So fair she was, and yet so false ! Durer's "Trinity" is celebrated. There was a simple domestic scene by Eugene Felix which I thought a gem in its way; a sleeping babe guarded by a faithful dog, while the fire burnt ruddy in a stove near by. Pictures are silent monitors. We are un- consciously affected by our environment. For the homes of our households, and their silent influence upon the impressible young, should we not select those pictures which combine with fine technique, high sentiment, and real beauty; which teach us "the poetry that of times lurks in the commonplace?" Are not those paintings which make us content with 252 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS homeborn joys, and simple though tasteful surround- ings, real benefactors? What I object to in French art is not the "glorious Nude" as in the child, but where its exhibition proceeds from, and leads to an unhallowed imagination and life. The Ring strasse is a noble boulevard, 165 feet wide and two miles long, on the site of ancient ram- parts. The old wall, that encircled the city formerly, was taken away and the moat filled up, and magnifi- cent structures have been built to front it. One of these is the University, an immense quadrangular structure in the style of the early Tuscan renaissance- It is splendid. It was founded in 1365. Six thousand students attend it with a faculty of 350 professors and lecturers. The new Rathhouse finished in 1883 cost fifteen million florins. The Parliament House is built in the Greek style. Two immense structures compose the Imperial Museums; between them is a beautiful garden. Near the Ring strasse is the Hofburg or imperial palace, and a new one is in construction. We were shown the Ring theatre where 500 persons were burned in 185 1. The facade is beautiful, but such is the popular feeling since the dread catastrophe that it is now used only as a private residence. The Royal Stables are a regular horse paradise. About 400 horses are kept here, and with those on the stock farm, the whole number is 1800. The white horses are used for coronations, weddings and fete days; the black horses at funerals. Very hand- some are their sleek and glossy skins with their careful IN VIENNA 253 grooming and native beauty. At the time of our visit there were eighteen Spanish and Andalusian horses; these are used for hunting. There were two Shetland ponies 20 years old. The carriage of Maria Theresa's father, Charles VI. was shown. It is 200 years old; when used by him it was drawn by eight white horses. Here was the carriage used by Napoleon I, in 18 10 when he was crowned; the car- riage in which the emperor and empress were drawn by eight black horses; that used when Maria Theresa was crowned; and children's dainty, tiny carriages drawn by goats, or Shetland ponies. The most central and prominent of the churches is St. Stephens, begun 1300. There are twelfth century fragments. It is of limestone, the nave 354 feet long and 89 feet high. Its tower reaches to the enormous height of 453 feet. Conspicuous is its high roof of variegated tiles. I attended service there Sabbath morning. It is built in the form of a Latin cross, and has eighteen massive pillars; two ancient stained glass windows, and catacombs beneath the church. There was a large congregation, rich and poor there together. The manner of the people was most quiet and reverent, as is usually the case in Europe, and therein is an example to some American congregations. "The Lord is in His holy Temple; let all the earth keep silence before Him." The singing was congre- gational, a remarkably fine exhibition of the German choral style. The music continued near an hour. Most sung the air. Each line is sung deliberately, with an easy pause for breath, before beginning the 254 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS next line. The organs changed tunes and pitch by inserting interludes. Near me stood a presumably Austrian lady with a rich musical voice, who seemed a natural leader in the music. No sermon was preached, but twice incense was burned, and a cloud ascended. Many knelt, and crossed themselves on forehead, lip and heart; another method was touching the fore- head, left breast, right breast, heart. As they with- drew, they took holy water, some touched a picture of the Virgin and child with it, some kissed the Holy child and crossed themselves. The people repeated the Lord's prayer, and perhaps the Apostles' creed. The lower classes were numerously represented. The Votive church with the twin spires is superb. It was built to commemorate the Emperor's escape from assassination. It is a fine Gothic. On the Graben I saw that singular curiosity, a stump in which each artificer or workman seeking employment drove a nail. It is now completely covered with nail heads, and a railing placed around it. The Trinity Column in this street of shops is a wavy rising cloud with angel figures ascending and descending. It commemorates the cessation of the plague, and was erected in 1694. I crossed the Wien, the small stream from which the city obtains its name Wien (Vienna) and saw an imposing structure with dome, and two colossal columns, 145 feet high, with reliefs from the life of St. Carlo Borromeo. It is Karls Kirche, or the church erected in the reign of Emperor Charles VI. IN VIENNA £55 Southeast are the palaces of the Grand Duke of Tuscany and of Rothschild. At Vienna was held the international Exhibition of 1873 in the Prater, an extensive park in the suburbs. On these grounds an annual exhibition was in pro- gress during our visit, and beside the tempting articles for sale we were regaled with fine music. Much attention is paid to this divine art in Vienna, and great musicians have made it their home. Near it lie buried Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, and Gluck. It was a pleasant drive to the splendid suburban palace at Schonbrunn, where Napoleon had his head- quarters, and his son died just as he reached man- hood at twenty-one. We saw the bed where he lay; also a porcelain room; and the million gulden room, with paintings on copper and Persian wood. We saw the bed used by the present emperor's father but did not envy him, for we remembered the story of Damocles, who, always praising the happiness of kings, was seated at a banquet in the king's court, and saw a sword suspended by a horse-hair above his head. Great is the extravagance of royal families. The cost of Schonbrunn is forty million gulden. (A guilden or gulden is worth about forty cents.) Vienna is the most eastern point in our European tour. It is 840 miles east of Paris. It is 376 miles south of Dresden, to which we now journey, our longest continuous railway trip. Our route is by Brunn, through Bohemia and Sax- ony. It is a bright Monday in July, yesterday's rain having washed the air crystalline clear. For a time 256 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS we travel through level country, by frequent poppy fields and farmers threshing grain. We now approach a picturesque city on the hills of the Moldau river, a great Bohemian metropolis of a quarter of a million; ancient, historic and glorified by the names of two martyr spirits, Huss and Jerome. It is Prague; of which Longfellow wrote his legendary poem, The Beleaguered city. It was beleagured by something worse than "spectres pale," when for no crime but their religious faith, protestant nobles were executed and their heads exposed on yon bridge of sixteen arches, for ten years! The venerable Huss preached a century before Luther. He has been called the John the Baptist of the Reformation. He was the morning star of the day of religious freedom. He was burned at the stake in 141 5, and Jerome the year after. But the truth took firm hold in the nation; and the blood of the martyrs is the seed of the church. We are astonished at the romantic beauty of the Saxon Switzerland, as we follow the iron horse down the valley of the Elbe. Here are sandstone peaks rising grotesquely from the river path 600 to 1200 feet. It is a mountain region heavily wooded with pines, and intersected with wild gorges, full of inde- scribable beauties that thrill the artist-sense, and wake the poet-soul. From a practical standpoint this river valley has its material advantages. Here quarries are worked, and lumber is carried in shoots down these precipitous banks to the river by which in rafts and rlatboats it floats down to the city mart. tN VIENNA 257 One could linger long among these cliffs and charm- ing natural scenery, which rob the day's ride of tedium and fill it with images of beauty, but we have reached the German Florence, Dresden, and are con- veyed to the scrupulously neat and elegant hotel Victoria, in time for a most nourishing repast. "The day is done, and the darkness Falls from the wings of night, As a feather is wafted downward From an eagle in its flight." Now, as saith Don Quixote, "blessings light on him who first invented Sleep!" "Tired Nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep!" — 'Sleep that knits up, the ravel'd sleeve of care, The death of each day's life, sore labor's bath, Balm of hurt minds, great Nature's second course, Chief nourisher in life's feast." CHAPTER XIX. IN SAXONY AND PRUSSIA. Saxony is the Massachusetts of Germany. Dres- dent on both sides the Elbe is its capital; a city of 223,000 inhabitants, and a center for art excursions. It is only three hours from Berlin. For these reasons, and for its cheapness of living, many English and American families make it their residence. Dres- den was a city at the beginning of the eleventh century. In 1760 it was bombarded by the Prussians, and five hundred houses destroyed. Its ancient ramparts have given place to Promenades. It is a queer fact that the sums paid for papal dispensation to eat butter and eggs during Lent paid for the old bridge. We visited the manufactory and store where we saw a splendid collection of famous Dresden and Sevres porcelain and oriental ware — rare, costly^ elegant and beautiful. We went into the Japanese garden near which the German soldier-poet Korner was born, and Germany's favorite Schiller abode. In the Green Vault was a wonderful collection of rich gems, plate and royal regalia; but to me there was superior attraction in the Zwinger Museum which ranks the finest Picture gallery north of Florence. After our first introduction to its vast array of 2,400 2.13 IN SAXONY AND PRUSSIA 259 paintings, I returned alone, for more deliberate scrutiny. Here was the world-renowned Sistine Madonna of Raphael— Coreggio's lovely picture of Holy Night, and other paintings of the Virgin and Child by this master of chiaroscuro — Holbein's Madonna and the Burgomaster's family — several fine Rembrants — Vandyck's celebrated portraits of the children of Charles I. — The tribute money, a reclining Venus, and Cupid crowning Venus, by Titian; here was the noted la belle Chocolotaire— Durer's The crucifixion of Christ — a Madonna and child of the school of Murillo of whom I am very fond— Battoni's beautiful reading Magdalen — Guido's Love and Venus, and Magdalen — Paul Veronese rich and glow- ing large canvases of the marriage at Cana, and Joseph and Potiphar's wife — Teniers piquant scenes, the Man blowing fire, the Woman drying clothes — and some of Rubens' attractive, boldly sketched female figures — "all large as life and twice as blooming;" here too among moderns, I noticed Muncacsy's The Crucifixion, Vogel's charming children of the Mais- ters, and Three old Women and three young cats which last struck me as delightful of its kind. I think old men and old women as interesting as tbe young, and their faces are the story of their lives, while the young are yet to be written. There were other paintings of great merit, and much enjoyed, which it is impossible to particularize. We had a long drive into the country south of Dresden where we obtained a splendid general view cf this city; going thence to Grosse Garten, a royal 260 GOLDEN MEMORIES CF OLD WORLD LaUDS park of 300 acres, now in the full perfection of mid- summer greenness. These silent shades resounded with the shock of arms, between the French and Prussian in 181 3. Here before a small body of water, is a pleasing chateau devoted to sculptures and antiquities; a garden and statues. Returning, we passed in front of a long street of elegant stone buildings, the Soldiers' barracks. Three hundred thousand soldiers can be provided for in Dresden. By the handsome monument of Fied Augustus, and the Bruhl terrace, by the Court church, we passed on through long streets of substantial buildings to hotel Victoria. It is 116 miles from Dresden to Berlin. After reaching our quarters at the vast Central Hotel in the gieat German capital, we proceeded at once' to Pottsdam by rail, which is sixteen miles southwest of Berlin. It was the day the fountains played. POTTSDAM is the Versailles of Germany. Not only has it num- erous splendid palaces, but what is hardly less inter- esting, it was the home of an extraordinary king, Frederick the Great. Sans Souci was built by him. Here he lived and here he died, sitting in nis chair — and the little clock which he used to wind, stopped at the hour when he ceased to breathe, and there we saw its finger pointing to the time when he had to surrender to a greater King than himself! "Death, he is the King of terrors, And a terror to all Kings/' IN SAXONY AND PRUSSIA 2C1 It was his wish to be buried by his favorite steed, Conde, in the garden by the palace, but this his people overruled. It is a handsome building in a noble park. Here Voltaire had a room till the Em- peror rebuked his vanity by a practical joke, when lie left. En route the historical windmill was shown, which the king wished to buy, but the owner standing on his individual rights would not sell the property; but afterwards made it a present to the Crown. Sans Souci — without care. What a pretty name and thought to those whose strength of brain and body is daily overtasked, with no apparent prospect of inter- mission while life lasts. It is scarcely to be wondered at that an old lady whose whole life had been work and care, said that her thought of heaven was a place where she could do nothing, ''O nothing, dear nothing, sweet nothing forever." We next visited the New Palace, as it is called, though erected by Frederick in 1750- 1769. It cost two and a quarter million dollars, and was founded by him after the seven years war to show his people that his resources were not crippled by the great expense of his campaigns; beside which he was fond of architectural display. It includes 200 apartments. In the vestibule is a large porcelain Vase presented him by Emperor Nicolas of Russia. In an extensive, beautiful green park, with great forest trees and green slopes is the beautiful Gothic palace, BABELSBURG. erected in 1835. The late Emperor William I, 26 2 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LA YDS grandfather of the present sovereign spent a part of his summers here and, his rooms were shown us. Here also resided the Empress Frederick the mother of Emperor William II, and daughter of Queen Victoria, before her husband's death. The arrange- ment is such that each room commands a charming prospect. It is a very lovely and homelike chateau. BERLIN. We are now settled in this conveniently located and immense hotel, "The Central," for several days stay in this city of a million, two hundred thousand inhabitants, the capital of the German Empire. It is the third city in size in Europe, ranking next Lon- don and Paris; is intersected by the navigable Spree which is an important aid in its commerce, the only instance where it is an advantage to be "on a spree!" Its site is an uninteresting sandy plain, and its begin- ning was as a fisriing village. It was much improved by Frederick the Great and his predecessor, and has more than doubled in population since 1861. It is now a chief city for manufactures, for engine building, and the artistic handicrafts, The famous avenue under double rows of lime trees, called Unter den Linden runs for a mile east- ward from the handsome Brandenburg gate, which is in imitation of the Propylea at Athens, and is 85 feet in height and 196 feet in width. It has five passages separated by Doric columns. It is sur- mounted by a quadriga of victory which was taken away by Napoleon to Paris, but restored after his IN SAXONY AND PRUSSIA 263 abdication in 1814. At the east end of Unter den Linden is Ranch's bronze statue of Frederick the Great, forty four feet high. Here is the palace of the reigning Emperor, William II. Next it is the Library, and opposite it, the Opera House. Back of the Opera House is Hedwig church, built in imi- tation of the Pantheon at Rome. Westward are the palace of Blucher, and of Ex-Empress Victoria. On the opposite side of Unter den Linden is the great University. Taking carriage, all this we saw, and were shown through the state apartments of the Royal palace. There was a Swiss Guards Room, a Red Eagle room, a Black Eagle room, Throne room, and chapel. The last can accomodate seven hundred. In it we saw a cross whose jewels are worth a million and a half marks; (a mark is twenty-five cents.) The chapel dome is 125 feet high. Had the pleasure of standing under the chandelier of rock crystal, under which stood Martin Luther in the Reichstag of Worms. It may be questioned what is the use? Cui bono? To put one's self in touch with the associations of great spirits is to vivify them in our imagination, and to increase our ardor in studying their memoirs and life work, by which we may imbibe something of their spirit. We saw also the Queen's room, and the White room which was the most brilliant of all. In the Arsenal we were shown a collection of trophies. The Hall of Victory contains the hat and decorations taken from Napoleon I. How humiliating 261 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS to* that proud spirit must have been his fall! Saw the first breech-loading gun of 1580- the first cannon ever made; bearing date of 1350. In the art gallery of modern Paintings in Berlin Were some strikingly impressive themes. The Hunt for fortune, represents a young man in a chariot on a chase. Before him is a graceful sylph floating away standing on a bubble that may burst any moment. Under his wheels is the prostrate form of a fair girl. Thus do men ride over broken hearts in search of pleasure, wealth, fame, which flees from them, and if attained, has no more solid foundation than a bubble. Meanwhile in the picture — as in life —Death lurks close behind. Another remarkable scene is The Procession of Death. There are the old, the young, the bride in wedding finery, the child, the maiden all marching in the skeleton's ranks. There are the loving couple at the side, bidding each other farewell. One must go and one must stay. A poor old woman sits awaiting her call to join the caravan. It is a sermon without words. Specially interesting was the Hohenzollern Museum,, in Monbijou palace, once the abode of Christine Elis- abeth, the putative or repudiated wife of Frederick the Great. He was married to her but would not live with her. Here was the ermine mantle of her cor- onation; the Empress Frederick's (Victoria's) wed- ding dress, a stiff watered white silk, with trimmings cf same, and train; the Mourning room of William I, and another of his son Frederick, containing the IN SAXONY AND PRUSSIA 2651 funeral wreaths, ribbons and mourning insignia sent in condolence to the afflicted royal family. Here' too was the table brought from Saint Cloud, on which. Napoleon III. declared war against Prussia; the portrait of Mendelsohn with fine dark eyes; Hum- boldt with a benevolent face. Saw a bridal dress of. silver with train of same, belonging to Frederick William IVth's wife. It must have been a most un- comfortable weight to wear. Queen Louise, mother of old Emperor William L was one of the most beautiful women of her day. When Napoleon I. came on his errand of conquest she sought to mediate, but was rudely repulsed by that hard, selfish man. Soon after she died (1810). Here are her rooms; her pink dress, cradle of her son; a screen wrought by her hand: Napoleon's watch taken after his defeat; a picture of Frederick the Great when a boy; his numerous snuffboxes, the piano from the Sans Souci palace; Martin Luther's drinking glass; Frederick the Great's cane which he cut and used for forty-five years; his iron cot in which he slept in carnp; his plain pewter plates and hand basin. In the store of the Royal Porcelain works of Berlin we saw very beautiful sets of rare china. We saw the models of the exquisite recumbent statues of Queen Louise and her consort which are greatly admired at the Charlottenburg mausoleum. We rode to the Thier-Garten, a park of 600 acres, two miles long and three quarters of a mile wide, and saw a fine monument to the Empress Louise, The 206 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS German people keep her memory green. Very handsome was the tall granite column of Peace, with its chiseled groups, commemorating the victory over France in 187 [ , Fronting the Emperor's palace, in superb grounds are the old and New Museum, and the National Gallery. The art collections of Berlin though over- shadowed by the peerless treasures of Dresden, Flor- ence, Rome and Paris are still very large and valua- ble. Here are Guido Reni's Mater Dolorosa, Raphael's Madonna of the grand Dutchess, Denner's old Man, Rubens' little Christ child with St. John and angels — and a remarkably sweet Madonna by Luini of the Florentine School. On the Sabbath I heard an excellent practical dis- course from Rev. Dr. Stuckenberg, pastor at the American chapel. In response to his invitation to meet Rev. Prof. Cairns of Edinburgh at his residence in the evening, I found my way thither and listened to the Scotch Dr. 's address, on Modern religious movements in Scotland. He referred to Messrs. Moody and Sankey's meetings as having exerted a great influence for good on that nation. Many resi- dent and visiting Americans were present, and before the religious exercises, there was a brief social inter- change, which in a foreign land was most pleasant to the traveler. Dr. and Mrs. Stuckenberg are admira- bly adapted to their responsible position, and have our hearty benediction. Two kindly lady strangers helped me to the right omnibus, thus proving them- selves sisters of the good Samaritan., the conductor IN SAXONY AND PRUSSIA 2G? handed me a queer little green ticket in return for a certain number of pfennigs, and deposited me a block or two from my hotel, to which I found my way safely a few minutes after. It is quite a little advent- ure to go several miles, in strange streets, in the darkness of night, an American among Prussians, but all ended well, and the meeting had been socially an oasis. I am always finding kind people among strangers. I love to believe that the world is full of amiable and helpfully disposed persons, go where one will. If there are some exceptions as I must admit, still as a rule he that shows himself friendly will not long want for friends. The Prussians are a bright and energetic people, not slow and heavy as in some parts of Germany. The Empire which extends from beyond the Rhine to the Vistula and from the cool highlands of Switz- erland and Austria to the north and Baltic Seas, has a population of over forty-five millions of people. The government is representative, the legislative functions being vested in the Bundesrath, or federal council, and the Reichstag, or Diet of the realm. The Bundesrath represents the states which compose the Germanic confederation; and its members, num- bering fifty-nine are appointed for each session by their respective governments. The Reichstag repre- sents the German nation, and its members, 397 in number, are elected by universal ballot, for terms of three years. All laws must have a majority of both houses, and be approved by the emperor. This con- gress of Germany meets annually. The Kaiser can 268 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS declare defensive war; but if aggressive, he must have consent of the Bundesrath. The German Empire is the first power in Europe. This has been accomplished through her system of universal education, through her thoroughly disci- plined military organization; and through the far sightedness of her leaders in securing the pledge of co-operation from the Southern states. The com- mon people are industrious, economical, satisfied with simple pleasures, and think much of their homes. Their tastes are domestic, and their recrea- tions, are largely taken as families together. Beer drinking is undoubtedly a serious detriment, and a growing evil, as shown by the Kaiser's effort to cur- tail it by legislation; but as practiced in Germany, it is far less damaging than the liquor saloon system of the United States. The Germans are music-lovers, and in the depart- ment of musical composition, their record is superb. The composer of the Oratorio of the Messiah was a German, Handel; at ten he composed sonatas! The composer of that masterpiece, the Creation, was the German Hayden; The Ninth Symphony was by the German Beethoven; the Requiem, and Don Giovanni by the German Mozart. The favorite operas, Robert le Diable, and The Huguenots by the German Meyer - beer; The exquisite music of Martha by the German Flotow; John Sebastian Bach, Gluck, Weber, Schu- bert, Mendelsohn, Schumann, Kucken, Offenbach, Strauss, Wagner, what riches of sweet sounds, what a grand carnival of music these names suggest! IN SAXONY AND PRUSSIA 269 Abt was a most prolific song-writer whose charm- ing melodies are sung in unnumbered American homes; Blumenthal is a popular recent composer; Theodore Thomas, as leader of an orchestra has a national fame; all these are German or of German origin. As vocalists, the famous Madame Sontag, Therese Titiens, Minnie Hauck, and Amalia Materna (the last a queen of song) have been bright particular stars of German glory. In the departments of Science, Philosophy, Letters and Reform the German galaxy is vast and irradiates the universal heavens. Gutenberg, a German, invented Printing, an art which has given wings to thought and sent it round the world. The astronomer Kepler, the many sided genius Leibnitz, the immortal Humboldt, the chemist Liebig, the phrenologist, Spurzheim — the philoso- phers and metaphysicians Kant, Hegel, Schelling, Fichte — the critic Stilling, the historians Schlegel, Niehbuhr, Doelinger, Neander, Mommsen; — the Kin- dergarten educationist Froebel — all these have been German. German too are those poets and romancers Hans Sachs, Jean Paul Richter, Schiller, Uhland, Wieland, Klopstock, Heinrich Heine (on whose grave I looked in Paris), La Motte-Fouque, Munchausen, the brothers Grimm and that master artist in words, that royal oak of the forest, Goethe — all these, and more than we may now recall, are "their country's, and Fame's." In painting, Germany has not reached that emi- nence which it has attained in music and philosophy. 270 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LAUDS That acute natural perception of material beauty which is the birthright of the Italians and the French, does not belong to the German mind. The father of the German school of painting was Albert Durer. In Holbein, it had one artist which any land might be proud to own. Among modern painters, Kaulback is probably its most prominent. In Reform, the brave German monk of Wittenberg, has been a great figure in history, a spiritual power, an "epoch-making" man. In this constellation shine the gentle and learned Melancthon, the noble Count Zinzendorf; still earlier, the German Missal writer, the saintly Thomas a Kempis penned in his Imitation of Christ "words that breathe, and thoughts that bum" down the ages into human hearts, the world over — waking the better soul that slumbered. CHAPTER XX. COLOGNE AND BELGIUM. An all day's ride of 361 miles through northern Germany brought us again to our friend, the noble Rhine — whose falls we had seen, and between whose vineclad banks and castled crags we had sailed, — and to the city of pleasant perfume Koln, or Cologne. After a night's rest at Hotel du Nord, we were pre- pared to enjoy this really admirable and now flourish- ing city. Coleridge's much quoted epigram to its disadvantage is no longer applicable. Being in the direct route of travel from London or Antwerp to Switzerland and other noted resorts, it has recently made great improvements and is now growing fast. It already numbers 148,000 souls. It dates from early antiquity, its site being built upon before the time of Christ. In 51 A. D. a Roman colony occu- pied it; there are considerable Roman remains. It became a part of the Frankish kingdom in the fifth century. Its special glory is its Cathedral, begun in 1248, finished in 1880, and considered the grandest Gothic building in the world. Its dimensions are 511 feet by 231, and its towers 511 feet high. CAnother authority gives the length as 444 feet; breadth 201 ;) height of nave 145 feet. The interior with its nfty- "71 272 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS six vast columns and beautiful stained glass windows is most majestic and imposing, "A poem of the earth and air, A mediaeval miracle of song." The professed bones of the Magi are in the chapel of Three Kings, and the heart of Marie de Medicis, (wife of Henry IV.) is buried here. Poor queen! a famous king was her husband, and kings were her descendants. Her charms and royal triumphs are commemorated in the twenty-one great paintings by Rubens in the Louvre, and the elegant Luxembourg which we saw in Paris she had designed and beauti- fied for her home; but her own son banished her, and here in Cologne is the house in which she died in exile and poverty. Verily " 'Tis better to be lowly born And range with humble livers in content, Than to be perked up in a glistering grief And wear a golden sorrow." In the church of St. Ursula we were shown the tomb of that unfortunate princess who returning from Rome was massacred with 11,000 of her virgin com- panions. The bones of the martyrs here displayed are a ghastly sight. Very enjoyable was our ride about the city, viewing both the handsome new build- ings and fine streets, and the historic old. There was an interesting pontoon bridge of boats, as well as an iron one over the Rhine, connecting Cologne with Deutz on the right bank. Five hours by rail cover our next 138 miles to Brussels. Unlike travel in our own country of mag- COLOGNE AND BELGIUM 273 nificent distances, here a few hours takes us over a frontier, subjects us to custom-house inspection, a changed currency, and a new foreign tongue. The custom house examination however is but a trifle to that of the United States. We have left the land of marks and pfennige (Germany) and reckon in Bel- gium in a decimal currency of francs and centimes. In Austria we had florins and kreutzers, the florin being 46 cents and, divided into 100 kreutzers. The language of Belgium is Flemish; but French is spoken in Brussels which is a miniature Paris. Brussels with its suburbs has four hundred thousand inhabitants, and in its brightness and gayety as well as speech resembles the brilliant French capital, which is only 193 miles distant. We reached there on the evening of a fete day, and found the streets full of light and stir. To-day, July 23 is the twenty- fifth Anniversary of the Inauguration of King Leo- pold's reign, and from 2 p. m. from the hotel balcony of which I am the fortunate occupant, I have wit- nessed an immense and constantly moving procession in his honor. The day has been devoted apparently by everybody here to the commemoration of this event, and of the king and queen's marriage which also occurred several years ago to-day. On and still on they have come, bands of music, banners flaunting, tall grotesque figures twenty-five feet high, dressed as women in the most fantastic fashion, masque faces, and flowing skirts over barrels for crinoline, dancing boys, a real live elephant marching along, the absurd mannikin fountain carried in the ranks, 274 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS many pretended monsters, and files of men; while men followed along the sidewalk, shaking money boxes vigorously and catching coins that fell from windows to provide for the expenses of the great dis- play. Pavements, windows, and roofs were occupied by the thousands of spectators that never seemed to weary of gazing at the sight. It is a wonderful gala- day such as rarely comes in a generation. To-night the crowd is immense, amounting to a crush, and the illuminations are the most elaborate and gorgeous imaginable, reflecting great credit on the projectors of the celebration. This is the fifth of the processions in different countries I have witnessed since leaving Iowa. The first was a great demonstration of working men in Chicago; the second was in rows ten deep of the working classes in High Holborn, London; the third was the military in their striking uniform in Paris; the fourth a vast procession commemorating dead heroes in Genoa; the fifth the national ovation to the King of Belgium. This only was a great fete, and hilarious, Another day we devoted to a carriage excursion in Brussels. On the heights we saw the fine modern streets and buildings, the beautiful parks, and royal palace and, entered the Palais de Justice, a magnifi- cent edifice, which covers more ground than St, Peter's in Rome, and cost $8,400,000. It was fin- ished in 1883. Here we enjoyed a superb view of the great city, the older and more historic portion lying in the valley below. The Hotel de Ville, built COLOGNE AND BELGIUM 275 in 1402, having a spire 370 feet high, is a place to be viewed with emotion, for here is the ball-room where occurred the famous ball before the battle of Waterloo in 181 5, which Byron has thus pictured. "There was a sound of revelry by night, And Belgium's capital had gathered then Her beauty and her chivalry, and bright The lamps shone o'er fair women and brave men. A thousand hearts beat happily; and when Music arose with its voluptuous swell Soft eyes looked love to eyes which spake again, And all went merry as a marriage bell; But hush! hark! a deep sound strikes like a rising knell. Did ye not hear it? — No: 'twas but the wind, Or the car rattling o'er the stony street. On with the dance! let joy be unconfined! No sleep till morn when Youth and Pleasure meet To chase the glowing Hours with flying feet, — But hark! — that heavy sound breaks in once more, As if the clouds its echo would repeat; And nearer, clearer/deadlier than before; Arm! arm! it is — it is — the cannon's opening roar! Ah! then and there was hurrying to and fro, And gathering tears, and tremblings of distress, And cheeks all pale which but an hour ago Blushed at the praise of their own loveliness; And there were sudden partings, such as press The life from out young hearts," ***** There are other very interesting buildings on this old square, the Maison du Roi, once occupied by Bonaparte and Josephine; and picturesque guild houses of an early date; and tournaments were held here four hundred years ago. At the De Beck Lace works, I saw a lacemaker 276 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS seventy-three years old, who works from 7 A. M. to 7 P. M. for twenty-five cents a day and boards herself! I saw a very beautiful lace shawl, the two years work of a woman. Its price was $110; after the manufacturer had been paid his profit, how small the remnant for the pay of two years of skilled and labor- ious service! A lady worked a year and a half on four yards of lace. It was sold for fifty dollars. The trade got $10 and the workwoman forty dollars for eighteen month's work! In the Wiertz Museum I saw Paintings done with wonderful skill and beauty, and striking verisimilitude to Nature. The sleeping Concierge was very pleas- ing. The artist had mastered the difficult art of de- picting flesh, and the human form divine, but his imagination ran riot, and verged on the objectionable Nude. Wiertz was called the mad artist. It was a thousand pities that one so gifted had not been re- strained by a sound judgment and a holier taste. In the Place du Petit Sablon I saw the monuments to those two patriots who led in the defense against Holland, Counts Egbert and Hoorne. They were imprisoned and decapitated, but "The martyr of yesterday is the hero of to-day." In the Ancient Museum we saw rich tapestries, and in the museum of Paintings many canvases of Rubens and the other noted Flemish artists, St. Gudule's cathedral of the eleventh century is a great Gothic with towers, superb stained-glass windows, and a unique and very ornate pulpit built COLOGNE AND BELGIUM 277 in 1699, representing the expulsion of the first pair from Eden. Brussels dates from the sixth century, underwent a terrible period of Spanish domination, and later, union with and secession from the Netherlands; and became the capital of the little kingdom of Belgium in 1830. An excursion to the battlefield of Waterloo, one of the great battles of the world, and fraught with destiny to Napoleon I. and Europe, was to me supremely interesting. The place is nine miles dis- tant. The trip occupies a half day and with two ladies of Galena Illinois, I started. We bought our tickets to Braine l'Alleud, and proceeded thence by omnibus to the Museum hotel which is in the center of the battlefield; there employing Martin Pirson, the oldest guide, whose father was seventeen years old when the famous fight took place, and helped bury the thousands that fell He was a pleasant, garrulous and piquant talker. He remembered seeing Wellington in his old age when much bent over. He had also shown General Sheridan the place, and Sheridan remarked that Napoleon was in a complete trap. He had taken up his father's calling as guide, and expected his children to pursue it. . Bonaparte escaping irom Elba had seized the reins of government, gathering an army of 120,000, and invaded Belgium where lay the Prussians under Blucher, and the English under Wellington. The headquarters of the Iron Duke on the nights of June 17th and 1 8th, 181 5, were at a house opposite the 278 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS church at Waterloo village about three miles from the scene of combat. From that place his despatches were dated, and hence— the battle was called the battle of Waterloo, On Sunday Bonaparte took up his position on some high ground extending nearly to the chateau of Houguemont. Its buildings and orchard were occu- pied by the British Guards, constituting the extreme right of the English, and Prussian army. At half past eleven Sunday morning Prince Jerome Bonaparte began the battle by an attack on Houguemont. It was as valiantly defended, as it was assailed, but the French got possession of the position of the allied centre, La Haye Sainte, Towards 8 o'clock at night Marshal Ney led the imperial Guard against the Allied center. They were met by a terrific fire from the English infantry front and flank, and immediately the Duke of Wellington, whose extreme left was now reinforced by Blucher and his Prussians, ordered an advance of the whole line! It was the supreme moment. For once Napoleon was checkmated, and bad business it was to be Napping that day. The Allied troops and the Prussians closed in on the French on three sides, and the whole French army tobk to flight. Napoleon escaped through Charleroi to France, only to find that his prestige was gone, his authority was no more respected, for the French worship the rising sun, His star had set forever. Four days after he signed his second abdication, and the victorious Allies entered Paris. The French lost 30,000 soldiers in the battle of COLOGNE AND BELGIUM 279 Waterloo, the Allies over 14,000, and the Prussians above 6,000. Our guide took us to the Chateau of Houguemont, and we saw the bullet holes in the wall, war's dread tracery that awful day; and in a skull picked up from the field. Three thousand were buried where they fell. The scene is now a peaceful cultivated plain with a great mound or pyramid in the center, raised in commemoration, surmounted with a lion-monument. This we climbed by 245 steps. Wellington seeing this artificial pyramid said — "You have spoiled my battlefield!" In the museum where I secured photographs, I saw many relics, caps, gold and silver crosses of the Legion of honor, buttons, helmets, uniforms, and Napoleon's camp tea-kettle which were picked up from the scene of the fray. How different the expression in the faces of Wellington and Napoleon; the latter selfish and hard. It is noteworthy that the attacking party in a Sunday battle was defeated. July 25th found us at Hotel Grand Laborers, Ant- werp, 27 miles from Brussels. It has been my priv- ilege to visit Brussels and Antwerp twice within twenty months, my second visit being in 1892 in company with a Palestine party under Gaze and Son's auspices; when we were taken to the elegant hostelry of St. Antoine which commands a view of the Park, and the always attractive Cathedral. A second visit as a refreshment of memory. I found very helpful. Antwerp has a great maratime commerce, 230,000 inhabitants, and superior artistic attractions. Its 280 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS museum is the best in Belgium. It was the home of Rubens, whose prolific and bold genius left behind him iooo paintings. He died in his handsome resi- dence which I saw near the king's palace on a chief street. Passing a sixteenth century theater, the Botanical Garden and the fine boulevard which occupies the site of old time fortifications, the Hotel de Ville built 1561, and Scheldt monument — we inspected the collection of 700 paintings in the museum. Here are many of Rubens, and his pupil, Vandyck's; a fine Titian; a Memling so wonderful for texture and detail, as to suggest he wrought it with a magnifying glass; a lovely Murillo — another by the father-in-law of Quintin Matsys, the blacksmith painter. The parent objected to his daughter marrying a son of Vulcan, whereon Matsys painted a bee so lite-like oa one corner of this large canvas that his genius was confessed and he won the daughter. Matsys con- tinued thereafter an artist, and his pictures became so much the fashion of the day as to command an almost fabulous price. Here is Da Vinci's Christ painted on marble, and the Excommunication of the Dutchess; here is a realistic scene of horses drawing a heavy load up a hill, admirably done. The Plantin-and-Muretus Museum contains a fine lot of old antiques, connected with the rare old print- ing establishment of the Plantins, who printed one of the first copies of the Bible. The grape-vine that climbed the outer wall is 300 years old; the library contains 14,000 books. COLOGNE AND BELGIUM 281 The Antwerp Cathedral is the most imposing in Belgium, Its magnificent tower, likened by Napo- leon I. to Mechlin lace, was finished in 1530, and is 402 feet high; it has chimes of 99 bells. The church is 384 feet long by 130 feet high, In front is the iron well-canopy wrought by Quentin Mats}"s. Within is the pulpit carved by Vanderhoort in 1672. Its glory and celebrity are Rubens' immortal pictures of the passion of Christ, The Elevation of the Cross, and the Descent from the Cross, the latter being consid- ered his masterpiece. Before such vivid and impres- sive treatment of a theme so mournful and yet so exalted, one should linger long and ponder. Over the high altar is The Assumption, also by Rubens. In connection with St. Paul's church of the sixteenth century, Calvary depicted in grotto-work is exceed- ingly grotesque and fantastic. Saint Jacques church, built in 1507, has a beautiful tower and contains the tomb of Rubens. Place Vert is interesting for its old style houses, the highest of which belonged to Charles V. The Gothic Bourse which corresponds to our Chicago Board of Trade, I was interested to enter, but found it less exciting than in our fast metropolis of the West. Here we bid farewell to the cities of continental Europe, among which we have spent three delightful months of roaming. Farewell, historic lands of glorious architecture, of poetry, of art and of song; long since, the rough cradle ol the bold and stalwart race that peopled Britain and the New World of the West. 282 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Happily it is to me but a brief farewell, for ere two years are over I'm with you once again. But now we sail down the river Scheidt, whose channel is so shifting that its pilots must go through examination every once in two months. Near the Antwerp dock, I saw this year, the wreck of a large four-masted vessel, its hulk wholly submerged, no more to proudly plow the seas — a sad, suggestive sight. Sixty miles down the Scheldt we reach the North Sea, over which we have a smooth passage to Harwich, and go thence by rail, 120 miles from the mouth of the Scheldt, to the vast city of the Thames, London. Here our party itinerary ends, my com- panions shipping soon after for the United States. I remain some months, for social studies in Lon- don, and independent excursions over Great Britain. The tour over Europe has impressed me with the inequality of social and economic conditions of the people; the wealth and splendor of royal families and nobles; the extreme poverty of the masses. This must beget unrest, discontent, communism and national weakness. Tourists often berate Italian mendicancy, and the persistent calls for backsheesh of orientals; but their apology is found in their wretched destitution, and their ordinary pitifully small earnings. To them the well dressed traveler, rolling along in his glittering chariot, seems almost a prince or Croesus. In Belgium, the wages of women are twenty and twenty-five cents a day. Even the skilled lacemakers of Brussels command no more. In the cotton mills COLOGNE AND BELGIUM 283 twenty-five cents a day are paid to women, and forty to fifty cents to men. In Italy girls and women making the finest thread laces in the world have been paid eight to twelve cents a day. In a cotton mill near Naples, the work- women's payments have averaged twenty cents a day, and the men forty. Women farm at from six- teen to twenty cents a day. In Germany, the struggle for subsistence is great. Agricultural laborers receive twenty cents a day, women wood-sawers the same. Carpenters and masons earn fifty cents a day, fifty in Austria, and thirty cents in Hungary. In Frankfort one fifth of the entire population have a less annual income than $216 each; many with large families dependent on them. The vast standing army and support of royal families, also entail heavy taxes on the people, and deplete their already small earnings. For instance, a Swiss porter in Germany without family and without property paid $17 a year tax. In Italy it is estimated thirty per cent of the wages are required for taxes. In Russia I am informed about one half the poor man's earnings go to church and state. Living is cheaper in Europe than in America, largely because the continental peasant is compelled to go without luxuries and comforts which the working man in America demands, and by his better wages can afford to have. I spent some hours in the two roomed house of an Italian wage earner. His business, operating the railroad up the cone of Vesuvius was perilous enough 284 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS to warrant good wages; these two rooms were neat but rigidly plain and uncarpeted ; his wife set before me apparently her best, a dark colored loaf without butter, and wine. No railroad conductor in Iowa Would live so simply. I have seen on the continent of Europe, a man and a woman yoked with a beast of burden before a cart; women with men, mowing and raking hay in the fields, and on the mountain sides; women sawing and carrying wood in the public street. In Vienna, men lay brick for forty cents a day; women carry mortar for twenty cents a day. Nor is the condition of wage earners and the poorer* classes in Great Britain much more comfortable or promising. Inspector Wheatly, who devoted ten years to a study of the condition of England's work- ing men said: "I do not know of one skilled artisan who owns a piece of land, or the house standing on it." When living expenses with the utmost economy consume nearly the whole wages, what remains for old age but a condition of pauperism ?* In the cotton mills at Manchester 80,000 women have worked for thirty to thirty-five cents a day. Many men can not get work. It is said 28,000 idle people in London sleep in the parks or on the roads. General Booth finds the poor of London constitute thirty per cent of its population. * It is publicly stated that "one of every two of the working classes, if he reaches the age of 60, is almost certain to come upon the poor law for his subsistence." Drink or misconduct is the cause in some instances but can hardly be in all. How dark the poor man's prospect! COLOGNE AND BELGIUM 2S5 Four months ago I traveled over Ireland and saw the wretched hovels of the Irish peasantry, and the desolated condition of what was once a fruitful island, and thought — how different from the shop- hands' brightly painted and comfortably furnished homes — in the Iowa town where I resided; whose families are well dressed, and whose amply spread tables might tempt a king to partake! Forty thousand Irish mud cottages are said to con- sist of one room ! Moreover in England there is a spirit of Caste, as I learned there, which exalts the titled, but represses the lowly born, and which looks upon honest labor as menial and vulgar; a prejudice that needs correc- tion, but none the less is keenly felt by the young and poor. Thus hoary prejudice, monarchical institutions, and standing armies, and perhaps the want of Protec- tion to industries combine to hold down the poor in Europe. It is the glory of our American institutions as they have been administered that all influences beckon men upward; from the humblest condition, the rail splitter, the cobbler, the canal boy along the tow-path, the tanner boy, the type-setter, the farmer may rise to the first places of dignity, trust and in- fluence. Lincoln, Wilson, Garfield, Grant and Franklin, with Carnegie and Jay Gould, all rising from obscurity and poverty, by their brains, pluck push and principle are illustrations of what young America may achieve. Other doors of splendid opportunity are waiting in the United States for young men of stamina. Viva America! 2S6 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS "The Star spangled banner! Oh long may it wave O'er the land of the free and the home of the brave! " We of the western hemisphere may learn much from the Old world. In the realm of high art, paint- ing sculpture, and architecture, we owe it an im- measurable debt, for its revelations of the grand and beautiful, and of the true principles of artistic crea- tion. Its achievements are our inspiration. The European continent sets us an example of reverence in the house of God, which, till it verges into superstition, is worthy of imitation. "The Lord is in His hoiy temple. Let all the earth keep silence before Him." The thorough work of the Ancients is an example. They built to last; they built of marble; men now build cheap imitations that are transient. The thoroughness of German education, classical and technical, is admirable. Fast America in its haste to be rich is in danger of sacrificing thorough prepa- ration, conscientious work and quality, to speedy ex- ecution, and getting quick returns. CHAPTER XXL SOCIAL STUDIES IN LONDON. "Blest Isle! with matchless beauty crowned And manly hearts to guard the fair." What I saw in One Hundred Days in Great Britain, while studying social problems and visiting famous haunts and shrines will be related in the next twelve chapters. It is the story of two golden outings in successive years on the British Isles. When we began the first flight over Europe, April's tender green faintly touched the slopes with beauty, and ethereal mildness filled the air. The fire of a harvest sun, and the proverbial moisture of England had now matured the island verdure to richest luxuriance. After so long a passage, I was fain to rest my wing like Noah's weary dove in some ark of refuge for a season; and wishing to study London, which with its nearly five millions of people, and its riches of antiquities and associations, and its multiform charity-work, is a considerable world of itself, I settled down, renting a furnished apartment near Russell square. From this u pou sto" I daily sallied forth "a chiel among ye takin' notes," and returned at nightfall, shutting out the world, and "far from the madding crowd." I 287 28S GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS had several letters of introduction and early formed acquaintance with some very estimable people, so that I did not feel alone, and was assured of open doors for temperance work, if I would engage in it, when the leaders of society should return home from their summer vacations. But for this I could not now stay, and my present object was to learn; to broaden my outlook; to gain material. I had however the pleasure of addressing several meetings of women. Interesting as are hoar}' and moss-grown castles, mediaeval cathedrals, and gorgeous furnished palaces, of which I had seen many this year, they are less fascinating, than quite another department of re- search. "The noblest study of mankind is Man." The temple of the soul where divinity or demons take up an abode, making it in its own place "a heaven or hell," is incomparably more valuable, and worthy of profound attention, than any edifice of marble, however vast its proportions, elaborate its workmanship, or venerable its antiquity. The latter under Time's tooth must crumble to atoms; the former shrines a spark destined to an eternity of bane or blessing. The doctrine of the Fatherhood of God and the Brotherhood of man, or the simple Golden Rule, profoundly held in one's innermost heart, must lead to a sense of obligation to help the helpless, and to care for "The poor humanity that beats Its life out on the stony streets." Here and there through the ages there have been SOCIAL STUDIES IN LONDON 289 great spirits that were aflame with the enthusiasm of Humanity, Moses, Buddha and Confucius, each illustrated it in the most remote ages, and in countries far apart. Then came the great Light, Jesus Christ, whose life is epitomized in the record, — he went about doing good, — and for our sakes he became poor; whose career of self-sacrificing love fulfilled the angelic song, Glory to God in the highest; peace on earth to good-willing-men! who declared he came to seek and to save the lost; whose scripture-reading in the temple significantly contained what Prof. Drum- mond well calls the Program of Christianity. "The Spirit of the Lord is upon me, because he hath anointed me to preach the gospel to the poor; he hath sent me to heal the broken-hearted, to preach deliverance to the captives, and recovering of sight to the blind, to set at liberty them that are bruised, to preach the acceptable year of the Lord." Down the subsequent ages, there have been apostles, a goodly company of martyrs, here and there a St. Augustine, a Loyola, a St. Zavier, a St. Genevieve, St. Cecilia, a St. Elizabeth inspired with the same evangel; and thank God, the churches of to-day are waking up more than ever to the truth "No Man liveth to him- self ;" and to the sentiment "Every man for his brother and God for us all!" In the last quarter of a century there has been a wonderful growth of charities in London's east end; it was a prominent object of my sojourn in England to learn what was being done for the outcasts whose bitter cry had rung across the Atlantic. 290 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Providence opened the way; for "he who wants a providence will never fail a providence to find." A most estimable lady of London who from the beginning of the East End philanthropies was identi- fied with a number of them, Miss S. M. R. — has kindly given time to conduct me to several benevo- lent enterprises. We met at the booking office of the Great Northern railway, Liverpool street station, and from that busy thoroughfare proceeded to Bethnal Green road, thence perambulating part of the White Chapel district. Here swarm the poverty, squalor, rags, and vice of the over crowded metropolis, We entered streets where Jack the Ripper performed his horrid butcheries, lanes where till recently a well dressed stranger might scarcely walk in safety, even in the broad light of day. I shall never forget the impressions received as we threaded those passage ways swarming with human life, — the utter and frowsy raggedness of the women, the wild, staring eyes and flying hair of young girlhood, the hardened, low lived look of the men. The whole region was filled with home-heathen far more degraded than the Chinese worshiper of Joss! Here vice breeds and virtue dies; Intemperance runs riot, and Murder gluts itself with blood! Here rings the bitter cry of outcast- London! The chief cause is not far to seek, — the omnipresent ginshops, and the vices to which Drink inflames; to this must be added extreme poverty and the hope- lessness of anything better, tenements whose unclean- ness is fearful, and the depraved tendencies which a SOCIAL STUDIES IN LONDON 291 degraded parentage for generations must entail. Think of childhood and youth living in such condi- tions, such a moral atmosphere without guardian care, both parents sometimes sodden with drink, — or homeless perhaps, out in the street, out in the black night, out where the bright lights of tippling houses invite, out in the mad swirl of the whirpool of a great, wicked, bewildering city. Is it any wonder they go down? Rather is it not a wonder if any escape moral pollution? This goes on, generation after generation, a grow- ing river of plunges and falls and black despair, be- cause men in high station will have money by the liquor traffic ! and government licenses the damning trade! "How long, — How long, O cruel nation Will you stand — to move the world— on a child's heart} Stifle down, with a mailed heel its palpitation And tread onward — to your throne amid the mart? The children's blood is splashing upward — O gold heaper, And your purple shows your path! But the child's sob — in the silence — cures deeper Than the strong man in his wrath." Airs. K. B. Brozvning. The churches have slowly awaked to see that they have a good Samaritan's duty to the honest, unfor- tunate poor and the outcast classes, and that some- thing more is called for than stately temples, "dim religious light," and an imposing ritual. But first it has been given to a few illuminated souls in advance of their times, to start and organize the much needed enterprises of relief and mercy. One of the earliest of these blessed institutions is 292 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD tVORLD L^NDS the Bedford Institute which was founded by the Friends (known as Quakers). During the winter, several times a week, tramp breakfasts are provided, as work is scarce and many men are in great desti- tution. It has done good service in various lines of effort. Thirty years ago, a young Scotch woman, Miss Annie Macpherson received a divine commission to the neglected ones of London's east end. In Bed- ford Institute she began until she secured a building under her own control. The work she inaugurated in 1 86 1 has grown until now the large HOME OF INDUSTRY 29 Bethnal Green road, E. has been opened and fitted up where are carried on the many branches of a great and most blessed work. Destitute boys and girls have been received, a training home established for them in the suburbs at Hackney, and over five thousand of them have been started in life with farmers in Canada, or adopted into homes. For this end a Distributing Home has been established at Stratford, Ontario; and a Farm Home, at Barnsley Manitoba. A sewing class for aged and infirm widows is main- tained regularly, — a Gospel temperance work is held fortnightly among widows and others, with an even- ing temperance meeting for the men, — young men's evening classes have been established in which they are taught reading, writing and arithmetic; a work has been instituted for factory girls, by the weekly SOCIAL STUDIES IN LONDON 293 visitation of sixteen large factories, sewing classes, Bible classes, and a happy social evening on Satur- days; — a railway Gatekeepers' Mission and a Flower Mission have been carried on; and meantime the House of Industry has been filled with those desiring to "fit themselves for real heart-service" in home and foreign fields. On Sabbath forenoons two out-door gospel meetings are held, under the railway arch and in Bird Fair; the ladies of the Home of Industry preside at two harmoniums which are carried out for these occasions; the sweet songs of Zion are sung, followed by short gospel talks, and testimonies; the comers and goers collect around the music stand, remain for a while, drift away, and others fill their places. This is fulfilling the scripture, "Go ye out into the highways and hedges." All this work is carried on — in Miss Macpherson's significant words — "trusting Jesus;" a work of faith and labor of love. Miss Macpherson is a bright woman, a natural leader, and imbued with the Master's spirit, and has about her a number of kindred spirits, helpers. What are earthly honors or pleasures, in comparison with such a career of blessings? What are the triumphs of beauty, or fame compared with the Moral Sublime of a wholly consecrated, unselfish life which God can use as the channel of His gifts to multitudes! THE VICTORIA HOME FOR WORKING MEN at 39 and 41 Commercial street, White Chapel; to which we made a prior visit, meets the needs of another class ? as its name indicates. Opened in 294 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS 1887 in one year it doubled its size. Lodgings, baths, food are furnished to workingmen at lowest rates. Aid in securing employment, and helpful moral influences are freely given. A committee of which Lord Radstock is chairman have the institution in charge, and there is a resident actuary and mana- ger. I was shown the room where the men do their washing, another their cooking, the dining-room, the writing-room, the room for meetings, dormitories, etc., with which the building is provided. There are 500 beds; mostly full at eight cents a night; sixty- five who lodge there regularly pay twelve and one half cents a night. Here, as elsewhere, the chief cause of destitution was intoxicating drink, said our informant; men think of beer rather than bread, and will spend their last shilling for drink, and go without shelter walking the streets at night. The ignorant are not the only victims of the drink habit and the drink-appetite. The scholar who drinks is liable to become a wreck. We were told of one who sought the shelter of the working man's home, who was a graduate of Cambridge University! Can any doubt that if you dry up the saloon, 3 7 ou have done much to improve the condition of the workingman by removing his chief and deadliest temptation? And can any Christian doubt that this is duty? Self denial for others' good is the path the Savior trod, and the disciple is not above his Lord. Lady Somerset has related how she was first drawn to temperance work. She had seen two children sip wine at their father's table, and heard the guests SOCIAL STUDIES IN LONDON 295 laugh at the precocious little ones. At twenty-four that boy died a drunkard. The girl grew up to womanhood, was happily married, and became the mother of a lovely family. But the fatal appetite had been formed and she had become its slave. Lady Somerset prayed and wept with her. One day she asked Lady Somerset, "Would you become a total abstainer if I renounce drink forever?" Somewhat startled, Lady Somerset asked for twenty-four hours for consideration; when next she saw her, the young mother said it was too late. If the right answer had been given her promptly she might have been saved. To-day her home is shattered; "but," said Lady Somerset, "I resolved then to do in the future all I could for God and humanity." I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs over which passed the condemned to death; in London christian charity has built a Bridge of Hope for the unfortu- nate whom Hood has so touchingly depicted: "Take her up tenderly, Lift her with care, Fashioned so slenderly Young and so fair! * * * * O, it was pitiful! Near a whole city full. Home she had none." This we next visited. It is called the "Bridge of Hope Mission and Ratcliff Highway Refuge;" in Betts street, St. George's-in-the-East. London, E. It was founded by a Congregational minister's daughter, Mary H. Steer. There is a Council of eleven and this lady is Superintendent. 296 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Stimulated by Miss Macpherson's burning words on behalf of neglected women, Miss Steer in company with some other ladies began the visitation of women in the slums, and soon saw the imperative need of a home for the tempted and sin-curst. A small room was first secured; then a small house desirably located for the purpose. The work grew. Six years ago a home for Preventive work for children was opened in Mile End-Road. This has thirty inmates ranging from five to sixteen years of age. The small house becoming overcrowded, some houses in the rear thereof were purchased. They had been of the vilest of the vile. An infamous dancing saloon is now converted into a cheery mission hall, and the "bar" has become a room for prayer. A Night-shelter has been opened in which 1,700 persons were received during its first year. A laundry has been built, which helps to employ the inmates and place the mission on a self-supporting basis; also a knitting room, where several knitting machines are used. The Institution is practical and not mere sentiment. "Yes, I'll tell you my trouble, Missus," said a poor soul to Miss Steer one day, "'cause you knows our lives, and comes down to us; you 'aint just from a West-End drawing-room." Self-denying, perplexing, sometimes disappointing as is the effort to recover these tempted and erring ones, there is none more needed, Christ-like, heavenly. It is abundantly blessed as all right effort must ulti- mately be. The rich are often envied; I envy only these soul-savers, who are building not in marble, SOCIAL STUDIES IN LONDON 297 but on temples for the Holy Ghost; who are painting not frescoes on crumbling walls which Time shall stain, but on ever-during character. The Refuge is for fallen women, the five Preventive Homes for training young girls, and the Night Shelter for destitute women and girls. 387 had enjoyed the advantages or passed through the Bridge of Hope, the year preceding our visit. Near by, is the Welcome Home for Sailors, 173 St. Georges street, also on Ratclift Highway which Miss R Child founded and conducts, aided by a faith- ful couple who reside with her in the institution. Here drunkards have been reclaimed, prodigals re- stored to their homes, and brought to their Heavenly Father. I was glad to join their Life-boat crew and wear their badge, a coil of golden rope. Gospel and Temperance meetings are held here nightly the year round, and many a sailor here receives the gift of com- forter, mittens or Uhlan caps, socks, housewife, and a bag of reading along with loving counsel for his soul's good. The infirmary and hospitals where sailors are laid up are also visited, and there has been a relief fund which has furnished free meals and lodging to a limited number of seamen out of employ- ment and occasional help to sailors' wives and children. We next called at George Holland's George-Yard Mission at 87 White Chapel E. This is for young work-women and girls, with free lavatory, classes for sewing, evening classes, and Sunday afternoon Bible class. Also in connection are the Kinnaird Memorial 298 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS rooms, with reading room and library — for whose privileges the nominal sum of two pence a quarter is charged. As the managers were absent on a holiday excursion for Miss Brown's large Bible class of men, I deferred forming their acquaintance and seeing the working of their methods to a later opportunity. THE OLD MAHOGANY BAR is one of a cluster of mission undertakings carried on by the Weslyan East-End mission. These are variously named, St. George's chapel — Spitalfield's chapel, Brick Lane, — Stepney Temple on Commercial road, — Paddy's Goose in High street, Shadwell, — Old Gravel lane school, Chandler street, — and Mahogany Bar adjoining Wellclose Square. This latter is located where Satan's seat is; where "the life around is unspeakably horrible." Some of the forms of work are children's meetings, a Sunday school, a Band of Hope, and temperance club, — girls' sewing class, mothers' meetings, and visitation among the extremely poor. The more spiritual work is greatly aided by the coffee-room and bar; (of course a total-abstinence-from-intoxicants bar). These en- terprises were opened up in 1885 to 1889. The bright and amiable young lady actuary here invited me to spend a day and night with her to witness the varied operations of this cluster of stations, an opportunity which I regretted insufficient time and strength pre- vented my accepting. The mission is among the "poorest, most battered and most vicious," the area is large; the difficulties growing out of "drinking habits, overcrowding in one-room life, the lodging- SOCIAL STUDIES IN LONDON 299 house system, the irregularity of labor and low rate of wages, the constant changes of the furnitureless and homeless, the degraded and corrupt tastes of the people, and the absence of the well ordered and pros- perous," are almost overpowering. The last charity I had time to enter on this inter- esting day was THE STRANGER'S REST for seamen of all nations. This is at 163 St. Georges street, Ratcliff highway, established in 1877. Its field is the once notorious neighborhood of Ratcliff highway, near the London docks, where landsharks lie in wait to fleece the Jacktars, and gin palaces spread tempting baits. Its workers are volun- teers, and its method is a daily religious meeting for English-speaking sailors, afternoon and evening; a meeting for Scandinavians several nights a week, for Germans a frequent meeting, and a small Sunda}' night meeting for Italians, Spaniards, and Portuguese. The object is the conversion of the sailors. An open- air meeting was just commencing as we left. There are some forty voluntary helpers who give one or more nights a week to keep up the meetings. All these efforts filled me with rejoicing. How great their need of help! How much more such rescue-work this great moral maelstrom demands! One could wish to be rich to help them; to be golden mouthed, in order to spend a life in such labors. But if we have not the magnetism of the eloquent or cannot make the large benefactions of the wealthy, 300 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS let us not fail to do what we can. I was much im- pressed with a remark of an aged patron of the Wel- come Home, — "There is no telling what a single converted life may do." Another, — I think it was Spurgeon, — wrote, "O! this great population! — hundreds of whom lie on the brink of starvation, live in one room, no past, no future, no joy in childhood, no hope for age, no rest, and yet no helpful toil, just seeking to scrape a doss, — to get a shakedown — have no interest in any subject bat what concerns their eating and drinking. Ah me ! no tongue can utter the truth about their lives, no pen can picture their lot, and yet for these my Savior died. His strength will make them rise. O, to bring Him to them, and them to Him! This blessing I crave above all — power with God for men, power with men for God." CHAPTER XXII. A CHURCHMAN AND A NON-CONFORMIST. Sunday after returning from the Continent, I went to Westminster Abbey to hear the venerable Arch- deacon Farrar. Reaching there at half past two, a half hour before the time of service, I found a large audience filling the desirable seats and thronging the aisle. After long delay, I obtained a chair within hearing distance. This was his last Sabbath before his vacation. The scene was impressive. The interior of the venerable Abbey is a forest in stone, having arches, fluted columns, vast stained glass-windows, a rose window in the north transept, and a marigold window in the south. Around it are tablets, monuments and tombs of Britain's most honored dead; all calculated to fill the mind with awe, and work a kindly mood of melancholy, as we contemplate the end that awaits all. Here was one of the most honored, gifted and progressive dignitaries of the church of England. The music was artistic and very beautiful; in keeping with the sublimities of that wonderful temple. The Arch-deacon announced as his text Luke 14:27. "Whosoever will not take up his cross and follow me cannot be my disciple." His theme was — Crossbear- 301 §02 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS ing the characteristic of a true christian. "There are masses of professors of religion," said he, "which do Satan's kingdom no harm; men and women who live for personal amusement and entertainment, who never strike a blow for a noble cause, who exercise no self-denial. "One of the duties enjoined in the word of God is Watchfulness. How many are not watching! — To- day, as one whose life is drawing toward the shades of evening, I shall speak especially to the Young. In the art galleries of Europe there is a painting repre- senting the meeting of a youth in armor, and an aged pilgrim with his staff. The youth has slain a dragon, which lies under his feet. The old man has conquered — himself I The one has done one grand act. His countenance is resolutely thoughtful and nobly beau- tiful; the other has lived a life of watchfulness against sensual temptation, and of victory. Behold before you St. George, and St. Anthony! The picture is the allegory of christian struggle, and christian watch- fulness. St. Anthony lived in the third century. He was an orphan youth. To him came an awful realizing sense of the value of the human soul. He went into the desert wilderness to wrestle with him- self. The demon he strove with was one who said — I am the Spirit of Impurity. He had a vision of man striving to enter heaven. Dragons swallowed many up; and only those entered who constantly moved their wings very fast. The vision was a reflection of his own thought. He won the victory. He taught others that there is nothing so valuable as the soul A CHURCHMAN AND A NON-CONFORMIST 303 of man. At the age of 105 he died in peace, a life of vigil ended by a death of victory. "St. Benedict is another example. He was per- meated with three great ideas: chastity as set against passion, poverty as set against opulence, and obedi- ence as opposed to disorder. "St. Francis in the thirteenth century— nearly 700 years ago — gave "us an example of crossbearing. A rich man's son, for years he enjoyed the pleasures of a luxurious life. Then he was taken ill. Recover- ing, his life was changed. When I was abroad, they pointed to me the spot where he had pierced himself rolling among thorns, and where now only thornless roses grow! He saw a leper, and noted that all turned away from the poor unfortunate. He went up to him, spoke words of love, and as he looked away the leper was gone. Thenceforward, St. Francis saw in every poor man, the figure of Jesus Christ. He took Christ as his absolute example; resigning the idols of mankind, wealth, honor, pleas- ure. Riches overpower us, fame is a hollow joy, pleasures effeminate. He elevated the tone of his Age. "Are these ideals fantastic? These men did a work for their times. Precisely their sacrifices are not demanded of us now, but there is required the same resolute effort and self-deniaL David Livingstone who buried himself from the world in a missionary life in Africa, and was at last after a heroic career, found dead upon his knees, — Lord Shaftesbury who was the champion of the world, — the bishops of Africa 804 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD tVORLD LANDS who were put to death, — father Damien who became a leper in ministering to lepers, — all are examples to us. You cannot live worthily, unless you live self- denyingly and for others." Canon Farrar is president of the Westminster school mission in one of the poorest parts of Soho. It provides for poor boys technical classes, lectures and entertainments, a boys' club and institute; holds a Sunday service for the members, and the club is open every week-day evening. His delivery is deliberate, earnest, impressive. In the total abstinence reform, he bravely stands a leader at the front; surrounding himself with such a bulwark of reason, and testimony, that his positions are impregnable. He is not a fiery orator; he does not speak in impassioned bursts of eloquence. But he weighs his words well, and has the courage of his convictions. He is abreast of the best thought of his Age; he is one of the noblest and most influential clergymen of the church of England. In respect to denominational difference he has too great a soul, too clear a head to be a sectarian and shows a noble Catholicity toward Dissenters. He is an ornament to his distinguished position; and it is to be hoped that he will leaven the Communion to which he belongs with much of his spirit. The next Sabbath, I went again to hear Rev. Charles Haddon Spurgeon at his own pulpit in New- ington Tabernacle. Though the service was at 6:30 P. M. — an early hour for August, the vast building was already crowded, and throngs still seeking admis- A CHURCHMAN AND A NON-CONFORMIST 305 sion. The main audience room and two galleries were full, but the magic words, "a lady from America" secured me a seat. His brother assisted in the open- ing service, has a similar sonorous voice, and white hair but is not quite so rich, sympathetic, and origi- nal in thought. Spurgeon read I John: 6 ch. begin- ning at the 6th verse. "Justice," he remarked, "demanded the propitiation, but Love provided it. There are men who love; but they make discrimina- tions. They are shaken with passions. If you are like Christ you must pass from these tempers to the reign of love. "Do you live among men as the Lord Jesus Christ lived among them? — Refining fire! go through my heart. I long to have its evil subdued, that, Lord, I may be like thyself. Say you not so?" His text was "O Daniel, a man greatly beloved!" The style of the sermon is so characteristic of the man, so excellent and searching, — and withal was the last I heard from him, for his ministry ceased soon after, and he was gathered to his fathers, — that I subjoin the brief report I made at the time. "It is no disadvantage," he said, "to a christian to know that he is beloved of God. There is no gain in doubt. On the contrary such a knowledge com- forts, strengthens the disciple. It would produce more humility in us. It would astonish us that the Infinite Father could take delight in us. It would fill us with joy. The sense of love in the soul sets all the bells a-ringing. "I shall speak briefly of Daniel who was greatly 306 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS beloved. Secondly of all christians as loved of God; and third of the elect, the chosen few who are greatly beloved! "Daniel had that spirit which says — I can't do wrong. I must do right in the smallest motion. You must be conscientious in small things and eat and drink for the glory of God. There was a lion's den for Daniel; and if you would be greatly loved of God, you must expect to enter the lion's den too. If you are like Daniel, men will call your religion hypocrisy. You will be tried. But some say, 'I don't want any lion's den.' There are professors of religion who slip along easily. They go with the popular current. They have nothing heroic in them. They cannot endure lions. Cats (sensation) are too much for them! It takes stuff to stand trial. If you prefer ease and popularity to right doing, even in small things, then there isn't stuff enough in you to be put into the lion's den. "Daniel was not only to go in, but he was to come out. Greatly beloved, he was also delivered. So though you shall be tried, you shall be delivered. . . . Remember thy sin a month. Hast thou re- membered it ? Then let it go. God in his great love has blotted it out. . . . But there is another class, the elect of the elect, the chosen few. There are five hundred disciples, only seventy of them were commis- sioned. Then there were twelve chosen from the seventy. Then three of the twelve to whom the Lord specially revealed himself. Then there was one of the three, John, who was specially beloved. I A CHURCHMAN AND A NON-CONFORMIST 307 would be not only of the five hundred, but one of the seventy; not for the sake of the honor, but for the love; I would be one of the twelve, — I would be one of the three, — not for the honor but for the love; I would fain be the one; not for the honor but for the ineffable sweetness of the Love! "I. If so, then you must be of spotless character. If you want to live so as to have heaven while you are here, watch your every step, and your every word! The pure in heart shall see God. II. The men who are greatly beloved are men of decision. No trimming with Daniel. Don't trim. Don't com- promise. III. You must be much in communion with God. You must walk humbly, if you would walk safely. He who thinks he is somebody is nobody ; and he, whose head has begun to swim with his elevation, will surely fall to the ground. He must live wholly for God and his people. "No man need wish to be born in an age more suitable for chivalry. Stand for God and the Right!" He closed, with benediction at five minutes before eight, when many withdrew, after which the Lord's supper was administered to his church. There was a remarkable incident in the youth of Spurgeon which doubtless contributed to his conver- sion and entrance on the ministry. The Rev. Richard Knill spent a Saturday night and Sabbath at his grandfather Spurgeon's where Charles then ten years old was spending his vacation. Hearing the boy read a chapter, Mr. Knill remarked: "I have heard old ministers and young ones read well, but I never 308 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS heard a little boy read so correctly before. " He invited the boy to walk with him in the garden, and in the morning a knock at the door called the youth from his bed. The conversation was about Jesus. In the great sugar-loaf yew-arbor they knelt, Mr. Knill with his arms about the child praying for the conver- sion of his soul. Before Mr. Knill's departure, taking Charles upon his knee, he said to the family: "I do not know how it is, but I feel a solemn presentiment that this child will preach the gospel to thousands, and God will bless him to many souls. So sure am I of this, that when my little man preaches in Row- land Hill's chapel, as he will do one day, I should like him to promise me that he will give out the hymn commencing 'God moves in a mysterious way His wonders to perform.'" The promise was given, Mr. Spurgeon lived to ful- fill it, preaching in Rowland Hill's church, and giving out that hymn. His own belief was that the good preacher's prediction tended to produce the result, and he used it as an argument to sow beside all waters, and not to neglect the children. He became the founder of the Stockwell Orphanage, which is his noble monument, on this wise He had felt and spoken of the need of work for orphans. A minister's widow, Mrs. Hillyard, wrote him offering $100,000 to endow an Orphanage for fatherless boys. Thinking his hands already full, he advised her to give it to George Mullery but she insisted Mr. Spur- geon should use the money. In her persistence he A CHURCHMAN AND A NON-CONFORMlST 309 felt divinely called to undertake the establishment of an Orphanage. He was so generous in giving away what was be- stowed on himself, that his congregation had to see to it that a permanent home should be provided for himself and family which he could not dedicate to charity. The sermons and prayers which I heard from him were not without charming passages of great beauty, showing the riches of his genius, though everything was subordinated to soul- winning. His spirituality and unction were very remarkable; and his voice in its fulness, sweetness and sympathetic quality, I have never heard equaled in Europe, or America. It contributed to his popularity that he had a capacity for wit and humor. On one occasion when a subscription was being taken up, and it was an- nounced that Messrs Knight and Duke had contribu- ted, he exclaimed, "Really we are in grand company !" When Mr. King gave five shillings, he exclaimed, "the King has given his crown!" Directly Mr. Pig gave a guinea. "That," said Mr. Spurgeon "is a guinea pig!" When at scarcely fifty-eight he died, a great man and prince in Israel fell. Died, did I say? Such never die! His soul is marching on! In his published works, his benevolence, his influence, he lives and cannot die. CHAPTER XXIII. ALL SORTS AND CONDITIONS OF MEN. 'Write me as one who loves her fellow men.' 1 One day there was to be a fine concert by five thousand voices at the Crystal Palace, Sydenham. I went. It is a ride of nine miles either by the East Coast Ry. from London Bridge, or by the Chatham and Dover from Holborn street or Ludgate Hill. (Ludgate is commonly pronounced Lugget). After spinning along some miles past continuous rows of houses, we emerged into the verdure and freshness of country lanes, and speedily arrived at the station, Sydenham. This vast and unique structure of iron and glass, the Crystal Palace, was erected and furnished by nearly seven thousand workmen and craftsmen, and opened to the public in 1854. It was reared and fitted under Sir Joseph Paxton, the builder of the great Exhibition of 1851; and cost nearly a million and a half pounds sterling. It is one of the most prominent resorts of London, accom- modating 60,000 to 80,000 in a single day. On entering, our admiration is divided between the very beautiful, extensive grounds, showing the perfection of landscape gardening, and the immense stately palace, which arose therefrom, a "poem in crystal." 310 "ALL SORTS AND CONDITIONS OF MEN" 311 Here were charming lawns, blooming gardens, fes- tooning vines, winding paths, and great fountains play- ing. 120,000 gallons of water fall per minute in nearly 12,000 graceful jets. Aristocratic fetes of every kind are held upon these grounds, which with the palace include nearly 200 acres; illuminated at night they are an Eden of beauty. The palace comprises a magnificent nave 1,608 feet long with two aisles and transepts. The central transept is 390 feet long by 120 broad, and 175 high. The south transept is 312 feet long by 72 wide, and no feet high. The building consumed in its erection 9,642 tons of iron; fastened by 175 tons of bolts and rivets. The panes of glass used, if placed end to end, would extend 242 miles. For heating by hot water, there are 50 miles of pipes under the floor. Among chief attractions is the Pompeiian court, representing a Roman residence in the time of Titus. The red painted walls, small bedrooms, spacious and handsome inner court, with its pool of water in the center, serving as a mirror, — statuary and paintings are true to their prototypes which I saw in disinterred Pompeii. Perhaps more dreamily beautiful is the Alhambra court. Other courts represent the architecture and ornamentation of their age and nation, such as the Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Mediaeval, Chinese and others. There is also an Exhibitors' department for those wishing to shop. Beside the picture-gallery, the Art- lover will enjoy the reproductions in plaster casts, of 312 COLD EN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS celebrated statuary; such as the painter Turner, — the Iron Duke, Wellington, — the discoverer of vacci- nation, Dr. Jenner, — Watt of the steam engine, — the poet Wordsworth, — the satirical Voltaire, and many more. The Refreshment departments include miles of distance. 10,000 persons per day is the average number prepared for. "Oceans of tea, rivers of coffee" on special occasions are consumed; and I am sorry to have to add, the extent of the wine cellar including the storage of bottled beer is beyond a mile ! At 4 p. M. began the great attraction on the day of my visit, a grand choral concert of 5,000 voices, the grand organ played by Miss Flora Klickmann, Mr. C. William Williams, Conductor. Anthem, hymn, glee and song were rendered with precision, and a great volume of song from 5000 throats. Seats at sixpence and shilling were in large demand, and many listened standing. The fan drill was a restful and pleasing diversion, that showed complete sympa- thy between conductor and choirs, and brought down the house with applause. How the fans fluttered like countless leaves of the forest, neath sighing gales ! How varied the movements, following in instant suc- cession! How every motion of 5000 hands came to a simultaneous close at the leader's beck! Without a word, he gained their attention by a tap of his gloved finger on the baton which in his hands seemed almost a magical wand! Especially beautiful, and encored, was that lovely composition "The Song that reached my heart," rendered by the soprano voices with organ accom- paniment. "ALL SORTS AND CONDITIONS OF MEN" 813 The original opening of the Cystal palace was during the Crimean war. The Queen wished the enterprise God speed, hoping it would "elevate and instruct, as well as delight and amuse all classes." Nearly sixty million visitors have been received into it subsequently. Among its great days, was a cele- bration in 1854 in aid of a patriotic fund. The estimated attendance was 90,000. The Emperor Napoleon III. sent over from Paris a famous Band to play. The coin received rilled all the drawers in the cashier's office, and had to be piled on the floor behind the counter. The crowd overset a statue; every portion of it was trodden in white footsteps over the palace, and otherwise disappeared. A large sum was realized for the patriotic fund. In 1 87 1 was the next great day, the Foresters — when 84,925 entered through the turnstiles. Ninety butts of beer, each 108 gallons were drunk in the gardens! Another great occasion was the Salvation Army day. Who goes once, will wish to come again. Returning, I spent nearly a week at Miss Macpher- son's Home of Industry. Though the founder and head was resting in Scotland, there was a force of helpers carrying on the good work: Miss Watson, the senior lady in charge; Miss Davidson who fits companies for Canada; Miss Hudson who led in spiritual studies and devotions; Mrs. Oakes who read to the Mothers' meeting; and three dear young women who were getting practical experience in christian work, one of them from Copenhagen. Mr. James Merry, a nephew of Miss Macpherson's comes 3i4 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD 1V0RLD LANDS in occasionally from " Hackney Home;" Miss B. of Bristol is a voluntary helper just now supplying the Matron's place in the Hackney Home for children. Mr. Charles Inglis, an Evangelist I also met here, an impressive speaker. The following day, Sunday, the home was a hive of industry. Following the 8: 30 breakfast, were family prayers in the parlor, attended by the whole family and servants. The study and exposition of scripture were made a part of family worship till 10 A. M. All the seven ladies offered prayer. Two open-air services under the two arches followed. Two harmoniums were carried thither. Two young men played upon cornets, A few singers and helpers gathered around. Then began the singing of such hymns as "The Gospel bells are ringing," "Seeking to Save," "Do not pass me by," "Whosoever will may come." By the instruments were banners inscribed "God is Love," "Come unto me," "Ye must be born again," "Believe in the Lord Jesus Christ." During the singing a motley audience of passers by stopped to listen while remarks, prayers and testimonies were given. From one such meeting I passed to the other through Bird Fair, where the street was densely thronged by men carrying on a sale of birds, pigeons, canaries, etc., also a dog- fancier's business. The iady with me distributed tracts; we met no rudeness. Rev. Mr. Inglis addressed the crowd at the open- air service. He told them that some people were traveling and came to a river over which they must be ferried. The boat was across the stream, so they 11 ALL SORTS AND CONDITIONS OF MEN" 315 shouted to the ferryman to come over. And the answer came back "I am coming;" they waited, but he came not, and they called again; and again faintly came back the cry— "I am coming." At last they succeeded in arousing him and asked why he had answered, and yet did not come. And he replied that he had long been accustomed to answer — "I am coming" — when awake, and that now from the force of habit, he sometimes cried out "I am coming," when asleep; that he had not heard them till now. By this incident Mr. Inglis illustrated the good con- duct of people which is only habit, and not heart- obedience. He spoke of the promises which do not eventuate in right action. He held their attention again by saying, "Every one here is living to be happy. Ask the man of busi- ness, what is his aim; he will tell you it is to make himself and his family happy. All seek happiness though in different ways. Happiness is not to be found apart from Jesus Christ. I've been pretty nearly 'round the world, looked on nearly every sight worth seeing, and I testify that I never found real joy, solid peace, till I found Jesus." To illustrate the worthlessness of the world's ways of seeking happiness, he told them of a gentleman passing along a street, who saw a boy sitting on a step, while above at the next story window, another boy was blowing bubbles. The lad below was watching them fall, and as one floated down, he caught it and closed his hand tightly. " What have you got?" said the gentleman. "I've been trying to §i6 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS catch a bubble, and now I've got it!" said the boy. "There isn't anything in your hand," said the man. "Yes there is." — "No, nothing!" — "Yes there is," said the boy. "I'll give you a penny," said the gentleman, "if you'll let me see what's in your hand." The boy opened it, and said in surprise and grief, — "There's naught there!" — So with the prizes most men seek after. They're only bubbles; they don't satisfy." One of the helpers jumped onto a chair, and said: "I'm just a workingman like yon, six days of the week, and from morning till nine at night, — but I'm a saved man! It's past twelve years since I've trusted in Jesus." Returning to the Home of Industry, lunch was followed by the breaking of bread; — these blessed Christian workers, like Mr. Spurgeon, are open com- munionists; — and by a sweetly solemn fellowship meeting. Then followed Sunday-Schools in the four stories of the house. In the highest story, Miss B. taught fourteen young women, in the next story was a girl's Sunday school; below were the boys, and in the basement were 160 little tots taught by a lady; in a small room was Miss Davidson, and her class of hopefully pious, large lads. Sunday evening, the front doors of the home of Industry were thrown open to the public for an even- ing service. A half hour of Christian song brought in a number to whom Mr. Hucklesby addressed a pungent discourse. Such are the saving influences going out every Sabbath through these godly women, and their co- adjutors. . "ALL SORTS AND CONDITIONS OF MEN" 317 Another day the monthly Tea-meeting was held, at- tended by about forty of the friends and patrons of the enterprise. Two hundred invitations had been is- sued, but many of the abler class are out of London in August. At 6: 30 refreshments were served ; consist- ing of very thin slices of white and graham bread- and-butter, buns cut into quarters, and another kind of biscuit, and tea. This was followed by a meeting addressed by Miss Lang and Miss Pook who were about to sail as missionaries to China. Miss Lang in a very ready and self-reliant manner gave an expo- sition of Luke 5: 1 -10, fishers of men. Miss Pook re- lated how she had long desired to give herself to mis- sionary work, but the way had been closed till now. Mr. Inglis followed with an address on seven mis- takes of the disciples — from Luke, 9th chapter. He referred approvingly to Augustine's declaration: "A whole Christ for my heart, and my whole heart for Christ; a whole Bible for my creed; all christians for my church; and the world for my parish!" He told of one who said he belonged to the com- munion of the Holy Trinity and worshiped at the church of all saints! It was a very precious season. One morning at family prayers, while I was in this remarkable home, Miss Hudson spoke of one who said in his last hours, I always meant to be a chris- tian, but I've missed it at last. He was pointed to the penitent thief, and told there was mercy at the eleventh hour. But he said, "My eleventh hour has passed. When it came, I said 'Go thy way this time' and, now it's gone. I've missed it at last!" and so 318 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LAVDS — died. She spoke of the boy who wouldn't become a christian because he would have to read the Bible, attend church, engage in prayer, and do other relig- ious duties. He thought these things would be a hardship. Bat he was finally converted, and was asked by one who knew his former dislike to the christian service, — "How is it you do all these things now?" "I love to do it now," was the reply. "Christ has done so much for me, I want to do something for him." Calling on Rose, the hired help, to lead in prayer, the young woman in the presence of seven ladies prayed with propriety. One object in my stay in this household was that I might be near the East End charities, so as to visit them in detail. Miss Coles, one of the speakers of the British Woman's Temperance Association offered me a day's escort and introduction which was very helpful. She is a christian lady of energy and ability and familiar with these institutions, so we lost no time in finding them. We first sought out dr. Bernardo's homes than which I believe there is not a more humane and christlike agency in the world. Dr. Bernardo is an Irishman; and was a student of medicine in London when through a street boy in a ragged school at the East End he became interested in the condition of the waifs and strays, the orphans and destitute. He opened for their rescue on his own responsibility in 1866 a very small house on Stepney Causeway, and as his work grew added "ALL SORTS AND CONDITIONS OF MEN" 319 another house. The story of the undertaking spread, and friends rallied to its support, till in 1892 the Homes comprise forty-eight distinct institutions, and in the twelve months 5416 waifs and strays have been cared for, while since 1866 more than eighteen thousand have been rescued through these homes. Three receiving homes have been founded in Canada, and 5,005 have been helped to emigrate. It has required $500 a day simply to feed this great family. The donations reported in 1890 for the preceding year were $530,000. The general offices are at 18 to 26 Stepney Causeway E. Here we inspected the Home where about 400 destitute lads are maintained, educated, and instructed in eleven technical handicrafts, such as the tinsmith's, tailor's, saddler's, printer's, wheel- wright's and at the forge. Many of the boys are ap- prenticed to these trades. After visiting the workshops, we saw the school at which the boys are taught according to government standard, and passed 95 per cent at last examination for which grants were made. Saw the large swimming-bath, the room contain- ing boys' uniforms, their library, kitchen, dormito- ries, the beds being made up by the boys with pre- cision, and the floors cleaned by them every day. We saw a large hall capable of holding 2000 in which gospel services are held each Sunday night by evan- gelists. Ned Wright one of the foremost, originally a thief, addressed the meeting the previous Sabbath. The Labor House on Commercial Road, E. was 320 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LAND next visited where Dr. Bernardo has from one hun- dred to two hundred youths of 17 to 20 years for the testing of their characters; when if approved, they are emigrated or situations are found for them at home or at sea. Said one "I have gone everywhere, and asked everybody, and there ain't no home for me except the workhouse, unless I turn thief." These pass a year at the labor house, employed in such industries as woodchopping, packing cases, making ginger beer, soda water, keeping the house and yard clean, and cooking, — for discipline of cleanliness, obedience and hard work. Some of the lads per- forming these satisfactorily are engaged to work on the farm at Manitoba — four dollars per month of their wages being deducted, till their outfit is paid for. Many of the lads give good evidence of being chris- tians, and are doing well, both here and in Canada. They attend Suuday morning and evening services at Edinburgh Castle (formerly a gin palace and low music hall, but now a people's mission church capa- ble of seating 3,200) and are taught in the afternoon by the Deaconnesses. Saw the outside of Leopold House, two large houses, where 400 younger boys — -between 10 and 13 — are gathered into school. The housework is done by the larger boys. At last government ex- amination they passed 99 per cent. Opposite is a private house where work among railway men and policemen is carried on. There is a nursery home for very little boys, 120 in number, who will be transferred when old enough to the Leopold school "ALL SORTS AND CONDITIONS OF MEN" 321 and, afterward to the Stepney industrial training. These in Leopold House wear little sailor suits, and go to Edinburgh-castle mission Sunday school, Sun- day mornings. Adjoining Dr. Bernardo's home for boys on Stepney Causeway is Mrs. Hilton's Creche or Day-Nursery. Mrs. H. is a Friend who founded this work in 1872. Babies are here cared for all day, while the mothers go to work. There are always forty children here; some of them are being trained for domestic service. I saw one of the Salvation Army Food Shelters where for a ha'ppence, — tea, coffee, or cocoa are furnished, and for the same, — bread, or rice, or porridge; beds furnished for a penny. We went into Charrington's coffee palace, book saloon, and Great Assembly Hall on Mile End road. This is the center of Tower Hamlets Mission established in 1869 by the son of a brewer, Frederick N. Charrington. He was born in 1850 and had entered his father's very extensive brewery. While traveling on the continent, he met the son of Rev. Marcus Rainsford whom he asked to visit him at his father's house. There a momentous question was asked young Charrington by his faithful friend, Mr. Rainsford, — was he saved? The result was his con- version, and desire to do something for Christ who had died for him. He began to teach in a night school, then to attend a boys' evangelistic service in a hay loft, then fitted up a mission hall for boys, and another for girls. Then he saw the inconsistency of his attitude, building up with one hand, and by the 322 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS drink traffic tearing down with the other. He re^ nounced the brewing business in 1873, when he wag but twenty-three years old. Since then he has given himself to a work of reclamation among boys, to Street preaching and a purity crusade, and finally in conjunction with others to the establishment of the Great Assembly Hall which seats 5,000 and cost $100,000, and the group of buildings and branches in connection therewith. Some weeks later I attended a Sunday night meeting there; found a crowd assem- bled, waiting for the opening of the gates. The hall has two galleries, was brilliantly lighted with gas, and had a choir of perhaps a hundred singers, and a great organ. Seven persons played bass-viols and violins and everybody sung. Mr. Charrington, a tall young man, now in his meridian, presided. Sankey's ex- cellent compilation of standard hymns was used; the whole comprises 750 pieces of music. The hall is opened nightly the year round. SCANDINAVIAN SAILORS TEMPERANCE HOME. Opposite the West India Docks, in London, E. is this most excellent institution, for the protection of sea faring men from the perils of drink, and of evil associates who would fleece them of their hard-earned wages, on their arrival in port. It is a large new building opened in 1888, and is under the energetic superintendency of Agnes Hedenstrom Welin, who is the right woman in the right place. Herself a Scan- dinavian, she is one of the former christian workers from Miss Macpherson's Home of Industry, a devoted "ALL SORTS AND CONDITIONS OF MEN" 323 christian, a practical philanthropist. No fewer than 2,469 sea faring men, and 465 emigrants and others passed through the Institution the year preceding our visit, and there heaid the Gospel. Every night ex- cept Thursday, a gospel and temperance meeting is held. Akhough the Home is mainly Scandinavian, as many as eight nationalities are sometimes at once represented within its walls. The sailors when paid off, often deposite their wages with Mrs Hedenstrom- Welin for safe-keeping and as high as $4,500 in a single day, has been handed to her to hold for these sons of the sea, who dare not attempt to keep it themselves. The work of giving a sailor a bed and food, she says, is the lesser part of her undertaking; "to take an individual interest in the concern of each sailor, as it were to live a part of his own life with him, to renew broken links between sons and their parents, between men and their families, which have been perhaps forgotten; to have the care of about ,£14,000 coming in every year in small sums from the sailor's wages, and to send about as many small sums to relations, amounting to £6,000 or 7,000, this is a work which can well keep four industrious hands busy twelve hours of each day." Beside this, is a correspondence over the whole world, amounting to 150 letters each week, answering orders for crews, from Great Britain, Belgium and France. We partook of the comfortable dinner prepared for these sailors, and can testify to the excellent management. While the sailors are expected to pay for their board, yet great losses are incurred, expenses 324 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS are heavy, and the help of the charitable is greatly needed. The Institution is under direction of six trustees. Miss Hedenstrom has recently married an engineer Mr. Axel Welin, who is associated with her in the management. The moral influences of this Home are invaluable. Most of us feel and do too little for the men, whose poorly paid and perilous vocation is to sail the seas. "I wish our brother landsmen knew One half we jolly tars go through." CHAPTER XXIV. ANGELIC MINISTRIES. "O my mortal friends and brothers, We are each and all another's." "Then let us pray that come it may, As come it will for 'a that, When man to man the world o'er Shall brothers be, and 'a that! ' Four hundred years ago by Columbus' discovery a great new Continent burst upon the vision of the world. This event has been magnificently com- memorated. On the horizon of the nineteenth century a great truth not less important to the world of humanity is arising full orbed. It is the obligation of man to his fellowmen; of the rich to the poor; of the poor to those still more pinched by poverty than themselves. It is — that if we are endowed with intellect, wealth, position, or any gifts soever, we are to use them to benefit our less fortunate brothers, instead of lavish- ing them on ourselves. It is the gospel of Altruism; the substitution of brotherhood for selfhood as a mainspring of action. It is the duty and privilege of all, from the highest to the lowest, to seek the betterment and uplifting of others. Never has there been so much thought on mutual 325 32G GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS relations and duties. Never have the churches so much contemplated Christ as the example of self- sacrificing love, or so realized that the psalm of every life must be pitched on this key; that true glory is in giving, — loving, — serving ; he being chief who is servant of all. "A new commandment give I unto you," said Christ, — "that ye love one another." The attuning of society to this supreme note will be the creation of a new moral world. Here and there through the ages "a soul still enough to hear God speak" has caught this beautiful lesson, and has spent itself in unselfish service, flower- like, lading the air with sweetness. Such souls are multiplying now. The movement is not a mere sen- timent but an actual ministration. The first of the modern mission movements at the East end, the George Yard Mission and Schools, was begun in 1855. Thirty ragged boys were then gath- ered in, amid dangers and opposition. Now, from the day of small things has grown a large network of beneficent agencies. The mainspring of the machine is George Holland, ripe in years but burning with spiritual ardor, and in labors abundant. I visited the mission and drank tea with the lovely looking old gentleman, and his assistant, Miss Brown, who is also devoted to soul winning. She has a Bible class of 300 men, beside another class of young women. I heard her in a gospel talk of a half hour. At the close she stepped forward and shook hands with and kissed all the young ladies as they passed out. Perhaps this was as potential as anything she ANGELIC MINISTRIES 327 had said. Here on White Chapel street is a public Hall where services are held Sunday and other nights; a Day Nursery where twenty babies are cared for daily while the mothers are at work; the Young Women's parlor, playroom, prayer union, and dress fitting room, bedrooms with three or four cots for poor women without other lodging and without money. Pitiful condition! 'Near a whole city full Home they had none." There is also a coffee bar; the new Kinnaird rooms were provided by Lord Kinnaird in memory of his mother. In connection near Croyden are three cot- tages built by the charity of Louisa, Lady Ashburton, on whose heart the Lord laid the condition of the very poor. The Salvation Army Shelter opposite has cots for 160 men, skins being used for covering. For four pence, a supper and breakfast consisting of two large chunks of bread, and a large slice of meat are fur- nished, or bread and jam, or pie, beside lodging. This, the oldest shelter in London, is full each night. There are three or four other shelters, and a great number of barracks. The People's Palace for East London was opened October 3d, 1887. It is on Mile End Road, facing a great highway of half a million people. It is for "all sorts and conditions of men." It is to furnish a center of association, of culture, and of ennobling pleasures to the masses. It is to provide a place where all classes may congregate, remembering or 328 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS learning the truth, that "we are members one of another." It is not strictly religious like the other institutions we have seen, only as seeking the better- ment of society is a part of religion. By evening classes it provides instruction in Art, under which is included drawing, designing, modelling, etching, woodcarving and engraving; in Trade, such as carpentry, masonry, photography, painting, and engineering; in Science, — in Music, — in Arithmetic and Book-keeping and other studies; it provides in- struction to women in dressmaking, millinery, cookery, etc. The preceding year, as Recreations, it held a dog show, a poultry show, a cage-bird show, show of chrysanthemums, a performance of the "Messiah," a workman and apprentice's exhibition, a donkey and pony show, a show of cats, rabbits and guinea pigs, and a great exhibition of pictures; artists and picture-owners lending more than four hundred admirable ones. This last fete continued six weeks, and over 21 1, ooo were admitted. On the Sabbaths have been recitals of sacred music on the organ. A large library has been opened, and a most munificent donation made for the erection of a floral conserva- tory. More than ninety-four thousand bathers availed themselves of the swimming bath. In the two years preceding my visit, two and a half millions of people have attended the palace. A vast expense attends the keeping up of this insti- tution, because the fees must necessarily be low to be available to the poor for whom the charity is designed. ANGELIC MINISTRIES 329' It was found that the people were more interested' in animal shows, than in finer performances, not be- ing educated up to the appreciation of high art. I am glad to be able to say that intoxicating liquors, have no place in this mammoth enterprise. Its front is large and rotund with two minarets.. I was delighted with the Queen's Hall which is orna- mented with the statues of twenty-two famous Queens, from Esther to Queen Louise. It seats 5,000 and is; provided with an organ. The idea of this House Beautiful was suggested: by Walter Besant's book, "All sorts and conditions, of men." Its purpose deserves success; yet it may illustrate the position — that there will be no great improvement in society without the New Birth, and that the quickest way to reduce the outworks is to capture the citadel, the Heart; that we must build from the center to the circumference, rather than from the circumference to the center. It has been said, "There is no darkness but ignorance;" would not it be truer, there is no darkness but ignorance and depravity? From Bishop-Gate station I rode six miles to Ilford where good Dr. Bernardo's capacious carry-all was in waiting to convey visitors three miles to the Village Homes for Orphan and Destitute girls at Barking Side. Here I found forty-nine cottages, in which dwelt about nine hundred of the young girls whom Dr. Bernardo calls his 1,900 daughters. Each cottage contains from sixteen to twenty girls, with a lady at the head, who is called mother by the 330 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS group. These cottages, costing from $3,250 to $4,000 each, for the most part have been presented by some friend of the work, among whom are the Dutchess of Teck and the first Earl Cairns. These homes are built tastefully around a common laid out with shrubs and walks, the house-walls brightened with luxuriant ivy vines. Dr. Bernardo and wife were now residing here, he with his son being tem- porarily in Canada with one of their emigrating com- panies. The Doctor who has just buried a son is entitled to very tender sympathy. Gen. Godfrey, at whose house I stopped, has super- vision and is called the Governor; to him each house- mother sends in a full daily report. I saw the Laundry which the older girls carry on, in which 16,000 articles a week are laundried. This assists in paying expenses. The young girls are in school, and are being trained for domestic service. I saw them at play under the trees and in the Park, seemingly perfectly happy. The village is almost an Eden for beauty and presents a vision of practical benevolence, which must delight Heaven. I made another excursion to Lon- don Fields, Hackney, to see Miss Macpherson's Children's Home. Here in a fine, large, red-brick building near the station, fronting an extensive lawn, are boys and girls, away from the city's throng and temptations, here enjoying plenty of pure air and country play-ground. Looking over the building and its surroundings of refinement and beauty, presided over by the noble of God's creatures, I could but ANGELIC MINISTRIES 331 rejoice in the mercy which rescues these waifs and children of the pariah class from destruction, and prepares them for a life of happy usefulness. What a privilege to contribute to these charities adminis- tered so wisely! There is no way in which one can get so much happiness out of money, as in helping benevolent causes. For this one could wish to be rich. But the coffers of philanthropy would often be empty but for a multitude of small offerings from those in moderate circumstances. "Give! it is like God!" Recently I visited THE MILDMAY INSTITUTIONS, Mildmay Park, London North. Presenting my note of introduction to one of the Deaconnesses, this golden-haired, sweet-faced young lady with the kind- ness which characterizes these ministering women, not only showed me the group of buildings, and ex- plained the work, but secured me a seat in the great assembly hall, where the annual conference was in session, and accompanied me to the night train. The Deaconness House is presided over by the widow of the founder, the late Rev. W. Pennefather. Though deprived of outward sight she is illuminated within. Here fifty ladies, deaconnesses, reside; who with twenty-five more in south and east London, serve in twenty missions in poor districts. These ladies, working during the day in poverty-stricken and often unwholesome quarters, gain a brief respite by returning to sleep at Mildmay. Here is a Cottage 332 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Hospital, a lady's gift in memory of her departed son. Next it is the Nursing Home, a headquarters for ninety trained nurses, some of whom labor in Jaffa and Malta. Here is an Orphanage with thirty- six girl inmates. The Dorcas work furnishes sewing for poor women by which they can earn three fore- noons of each week, a sixpence a morning for sewing. There is also a Servant's Home and registry. The Deaconnesses conduct numerous outlying missions. Here is the Conference Hall where every summer a three days conference is held. It was my privilege to attend the closing session, at which twenty-five hundred were present filling the place. Rev. Marcus Rainsford D.D., senior, made an address on God is Love. The Mildmay Institutions are under church- of-England auspices. The beautiful spirit of unity rises here above sectarian barriers, as it must every- where where Christ's spirit truly dwells. The next day taking Metropolitan Underground Railway to Aldgate, and thence train to HARLEY HOUSE, BOW, LONDON E. I went with several ladies from Miss Mason's Home for Christian Workers, to a great Missionary meeting under the superintendency of Dr. Henry Grattan Guinness. The meeting was held at the Wesleyan church across the street; the church being packed at 3 P. m. T. A. Denny, prominent in good works, presided. Miss Geraldine Guinness, now home from a mission in China, gave the farewell charge to a large company of outgoing missionaries. Angelic ministries 333 Dr. G. F. Pentecost spoke on India. Miss Edyth Fooks, and another of the prospective missionaries made brief addresses. Tea, bread and butter and cake, were then served at delightful Harley House and grounds, to perhaps 800 who were admitted by ticket; an open air meet- ing followed. At 7 p. M. we again assembled at the church, listening to addresses by Rev. E. V. Bligh, Rev. Eric Louis, a missionary from the Niger, who declared that he wished he were black, that he might better reach the poor Africans; by Rev. S. Chapman of Melbourne, and another farewell charge by Rev. F. B. Meyer. It was a great field-day for missions. The family of Dr. Guinness are exceptionally gifted, his missionary son assisted in the public exercises; beside leading the music, and playing the cabinet organ; the missionary daughter's address was both pertinent and spiritual. She is the author of a missionary volume well edited by her sister. Dr. Guinness has a benignant countenance; his wife by ill health was unable to be present. Few families have been such centers of missionary inspiration to the young. They with these others, whose work we have reviewed, show us how glorious and beneficent a consecrated life may be. One Sunday afternoon I attended the children's service in THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL adjoining Brunswick Square; founded in 1739 by a retired sea-captain, Thomas Coram, who pitied the infants he had seen deserted, and gave away all his 534 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS property to this and similar philanthropical endeavors- There are about 350 children here beside 1 50 boarded in the country. These children are the victims of a mother's single error. The founder had seen Martha Washington in her cap and half handkerchief, and was so pleased with it, he chose it for the uniform of his beneficiaries, and such it remains. The effect is quaint. The children sang with the pipe-organ, a gift of the great Handel, on which he frequently performed, and deported themselves with the utmost propriety. They were addressed by an Episcopal clergyman on the force of Example. The noted Sydney Smith preached here. The chapel is a hand- some one with stained glass windows. The boys at fourteen are apprenticed to protestants till they are twenty-one. — Among blessed philanthropies is Miss Charlotte Mason's HOUSE OF REST FOR CHRISTIAN WORKERS at 10 Finchley Road, St. John's Wood, London N. W. Here those actively engaged in christian work who may be helped by a brief stay in London, find quarters at reasonable rates with most profitable christian fellowship. The house which is delightfully situated near Regent's Park was opened for their use in 1890. A seaside branch at Eastborne was founded in 1866. These houses are partly dependent on voluntary contributions. Having the ground for it, Miss Mason has begun an Aged Worker's Home, where a limited number of ladies, who have worn themselves out in ANGELIC MINISTRIES 335 christian service, may have a room and firing rent free; an undertaking to which she feels called, and trusts God and his people for the means. MibS Mason edits "Rest and Reaping," an interesting and valuable monthly magazine; she gives an address in the Pillar room of her building every Sabbath after- noon; on Friday evening she provides some able speaker. There I heard Dr. Montagu Miller in a heart searching and inspiring address on personal holiness. In the afternoon I heard Capt. Sampson, three of the Slum sisters, and Mrs. Sampson, a Rescue officer, all of the Salvation Army. Captain Sampson while at college became impressed by an address he heard from one of the Salvation Army. After serving awhile as Rector of the church of Eng- land, he gave himself up to Salvation Army work, and his wife, a refined lady, to the Rescue depart- ment. As to the origin of the Slum sisterhood; — the East End, after affording the brightest trophies of the Army's success, became difficult to reach. The cause was found in the very success it had had. As men steeped in vice reformed, they removed with their families to better and more reputable quarters. Those left were the more hardened and hopeless class. How to reach the slums? became the inquiry. Then began the system of establishing a mission of men and women in the most depraved centers. After experiment this work was placed wholly in the hands of christian women, who take up their abode in a couple rooms, with a room or two for meetings, in the midst of these vicious associations. These B36 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS women two by two, live among the people as one of them, helping them in sickness and need and burying their dead. It is a most self-denying life, amid the filth, vice, quarreling, and drinking of London's worst districts. Several slum sisters related the modus operandi of their vocation in an artless and most touching manner. So God's leaven is working in the meal of sodden human lives, and the religion of Jesus Christ is prov- ing mighty to save. Gathered about the family board in this holy Home of Rest were choice spirits; Marthas and Marys who had served in various walks of usefulness, in England, Sweden, Africa; here was Mr. Matthew Burnett and wife; his abounding and successful labors for Tem- perance have won him the soubriquet of the Father Matthew of Australia; here was an Episcopal clergy- man, co-operating in Dr. Bernardo's rescue of the children; churchmen and dissenters meeting in amity ; the writer was America's only representative. The heart of this household is Miss Charlotte Mason, the founder, now in the crown of her useful life of faith, and labor of love, a woman "Nobly planned To warn, to comfort, and command; And yet a spirit pure and bright, With something of an angel light." Her assistant, Miss Battams, is worthy of her responsible position, and won all our hearts. The prayer and communion of this home was a heavenly atmosphere. One of the mottoes here is: — "God first." CHAPTER XXV. PARLIAMENT AND PREMIER. It is high time to visit the British Parliament. Just before leaving the United States, I had listened to debates in the Senate and House of Representatives of the American Congress at Washington. I wished to see how our English cousins manage these things. But it is not so easily done over there; influence must be brought to bear; besides just then the nation was on the eve of a most exciting election; the gov- ernment was pushing through last business prepara- tory to speedy adjournment, and was not on full dress display. Through the kindness of my friends in the United Kingdom alliance, Messrs Raper and Hilton who have a large acquaintance with M. P's, I was introduced to a member who secured my admission to the ladies gallery over the House of Commons. It was rather a small gallery separated by a screen or lattice from the main Hall, through which we could peep, without being ourselves discerned, a relic of the old idea of the seclusion of women. A dozen or fifteen ladies were in this gallery; opposite at the further end is the gentlemen's gallery. Below us were a score of Reporters busy at their desks. 337 333 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Down before us was the British House of Com- mons. There are some six hundred members, but many were down among their constituents looking after their chances of reelection. Forty are necessary to a quorum. The side of the House to the right of the speaker was occupied by the Administration, which in that session was Conservative. The opposite side is occu- pied by the Liberals; among them, conspicuous is Dr. Clarke, a forceful speaker. In front of the Con- servatives is the tall and spectacled leader of that side, Mr. Balfour, also the General Attorney of the realm. The bills which were taken up related to Wills, and the entailment of property, also to loans to British Columbia, etc. Twice a division of the House was called for, on certain questions, and the members passed between two tellers, one conservative, and one liberal, and were counted. The government side had a majority present of 31. The speaking was less impressive than the speeches I heard in our House of Representatives last March; but I chanced to be at Washington just when an interesting subject was up, whether an allowance of $17,000 should be voted to the children of a deceased confederate. This revived the Civil War issues, and brought out some able and pointed speeches, petti- fogging on the one side, and compact moral argument on the other. The Grand Old Man was not present when I visited Parliament. I visited Mr. Gladstone's estate and castle at PARLIAMENT AND PREMIER 339 Hawarden, about eight miles by rail west of Chester, England. The estate is large, having noble forest trees, beautiful rolling hills and dells, greenswarded, through which winds a graveled drive. A romantic knoll is crowned with the picturesque, crumbling ruin of an earlier castle of ancient times. The residence of the premier was built some hun- dreds of years ago, is of stone, was restored in 1734, 1754, and 1809 — and is a massive and handsome building in excellent preservation. In the west rooms are Mr. Gladstone's library of over 20,000 volumes, and his study. On the south are the family living rooms; to the southward, lies the trim English flower- garden. It is a lovely place. It came to Mr. Gladstone with his wife. Her father. Sir Stephen Glynne, had been in circumstances which rendered it disadvanta- geous to occupy the castle and it was closed. Mr. Gladstone had intended to settle in Scotland, but on his marriage he bought up some of this land, and then for many years, the father in-law and Mr. Glad- stone resided side by side in the castle with the utmost harmony. With a world-wide reputation where the English language is spoken, Mr. Gladstone took the second place at his table, Sir Stephen sitting at the head, Mrs. Gladstone at the other end, while Mr. Gladstone sat between. William Ewart Gladstone was born Dec. 29, 1809. At twelve he entered Eton College, where he be- came a fine classical scholar; at twenty he entered Christ Church College, Oxford; there, against the bent of his own taste, which was for Language, to 340 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS please his father he concentrated his attention upon mathematics, leaving with distinguished honors. The bent thus acquired prepared him afterwards to become England's greatest chancellor of the Exchequer. His own predisposition was the gospel ministry, but he yielded to his father's choice who wished him to serve his country in the Legislature. At the age of twenty- two after a year of continental travel, he entered Parliament. Since then his record has been his country's and fame's. In his intervals of retirement he has written books. At first a Conservative, in 1 85 1 he severed himself from that party. On the death of Lord Palmerston, in 1866 he became Prime Minister. Displaced by Disraeli, he was again made Prime Minister in 1868. Resigning in J 874, he again became Premier in 1880; and now, at the age of 82, is re-elected the first man of the kingdom. His mental vision is not dimmed, nor his natural force abated. He has been in public life fifty-eight years, and in the British Cabinet, forty-seven. Of sixty master minds with whom he has been associated, he says all but five were christians. Mr. and Mrs. Gladstone have seven children. One of the employes of the estate told me of the exceed- ing cleverness of Miss Helen the Associate Principal at Newnham college for women, mistress of eleven languages, and yet wholly unpretentious. "It is only Ignorance that is assuming." Mrs. Gladstone has a thoughtful and amiable countenance, and is said to be her husband's secretary. One of their sons is rector of the village church Hawarden, to which I PARLIAMENT AND PREMIER 341 now wended my way. Ancient graves surround the old kirk. The member of Parliament frequently reads the service here, if no clergyman is present. AT EXETER HALL seating 3,000, which was opened in 183 1, where many famous meetings have been held, — I saw the Temperance Conference, The occasion was the election within the next three weeks of a new parlia- ment. These elections occur once in seven years, unless the resignation of members precipitate them earlier. The present purpose of the friends of tem- perance was to forward the election of such men as would vote for the Direct Veto; in other words, the reference of granting License to the people instead of the magistrates. Hon. Sir Wilfred Lawson presided. He branded as shocking the utterance of the liquor traffic: "We have no politics but trade." He said vote only for those candidates who will vote against inflicting the traffic where people do not want it. Canon Farrar viewed the meeting not as political but as national. He quoted the deliverences of the Pope of Rome, the Archbishop of Canterbury, and Sir Randolph Churchill, as sufficient ground for his participation. "Drink," — said the pope — "is a per- petual incentive to sin; dragging down numberless souls to everlasting perdition. It is the present work of the church; for if not done, nothing can be lastingly done." In this issue, let the people decide whether they will have the drink-house or no. 342 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS Canon Wilberforce said: "Politics are the morals of a nation. The argument as to Licensing the sale of intoxicating drinks was told by the boy who said — 'when father's teetotal we have bread and butter; but when he is not, we go without!' "I believe in the empire of the people to protect themselves. I belong to that party' who trusts the People. God stands behind the (true) democracy. What is the duty of this hour? . Unbounded thank- fulness for the past, and for the future let every one pray, and vote as he prays. The Almighty will do His part through earnest, God-fearing men and women. Do not be drawn aside from the drink issue, lest some other thing suffer. All the other evils in the Universe will not equal those of Intemperance. If we must have the liquor traffic in the Church, then I say let both go together!" Hon. Conrad Dillon, Mr. J. W. Benn, and J. H. Raper spoke well. Rev. P. G. Snell, a Congregationalist said: "The people, not the magistrates, have to pay the taxes. The people have to suffer from the drink-evil. Then to the people this question whether they will have the drink traffic should be referred. We are accustomed to say God help the poor! Then let them have the power to help themselves." It was cheering to greet the representatives of the different wings of the Temperance army; at the office of the United Kingdom alliance which deals with legislation and issues a strong weekly, those stalwarts Sir Wilfred Lawson, Mr. J. H. Raper; at the office of the Temperance League, which works specially on PARLIAMENT AND PREMIER 843 the line of moral influence, — the excellent and genial Robert Rae, Secretary; and at the office of the British Woman's Temperance Association, of which Lady Somerset is president, the faithful Secretary, Miss Holland. The Association was organized in 1876, and numbers 264 affiliated societies, with additional 161 dependent upon some of these. There is also the Band of Hope Union, which is made — as , its importance deserves — a distinct and independent organization into which much life and interest are infused. These four societies need only the united voice of the churches in full co-operation, to renovate the kingdom. But total abstinence in the churches, though gaining, has made slow progress, and is far from universal. The motto of the B. W. T. A. is a good one for all professors of religion, — "Associated for progress, we bind ourselves that others may be set free;" or, still shorter, we might wear as an amulet the sentiment, — for others' sake. Memorial Hall, where we find our temperance sisters — is in commemoration of the martyrs who perished near here, and is a noble, central edifice of the Noncon- formists. At Pater-noster Row, where booksellers are congregated, and at the office of that excellent and popular paper "The Christian," we were introduced to delightful people; one of whom said, I have a scripture motto for you, — "the Father himself loveth you." How sweet the thought' to one seeking to follow Christ, — though in a land of strangers. I can- not lonely be, — the Father himself loveth me! A vast circulation of books is effected through 344 GOLDEN MEMORIES OP OLD WORLD LANDS Mudie's Circulating library, of which there are three offices in London, and branches over the kingdom; I learned in the South Kensington office, 241 Brompton Road, that there are four million volumes in this library. The subscription of a person borrowing one volume at a time, is 7s, 6d ($1.87 1-2) for three months. The Dore gallery of oil paintings at 35 New Bond st. covers the walls of three rooms, and at a shilling admission attract many visitors. Among the fine large paintings were Christ's Triumphal Entry, Christ coming from the Pretorium, Ecce Homo, The Ascension, the Vale of Tears. In these a great number of human figures were portrayed. There were also The Death of the First born or Moses be- fore Pharaoh, The Monk's Reverie at the organ; the Martyrs in the arena with lions; The Neophyte or young monk; Pilate's wife warned; Genius killed by Fame; Fate and Love; The Slaughter of the Inno- cents; and others. Paul Gustave Dore was a French artist who died in 1883, at the age of 51. In the Royal Academy Exhibition, Picadilly, I saw the work of modern artists; a highly creditable col- lection. At St. James Hall, Regent street, in the musical concert given for the benefit of the "Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals," I saw a West End audience, which included nobility, the Duchess of Bedford, the Baroness Burdett Coutts who is famous for her liberality, and others of rank. The jam was immense, and a large contribution for the worthy PARLIAMENT AMD PREMIER 345 cause must have been realized. The singers included a brilliant array of talent, Valda and Madame Albani who sang like nightingales, and Madame Antoinette Sterling, whose soulful rendition of songs that told the children's story was more effective than any musical pyrotechnics. It was my good fortune to be in London at the time of the annual Fete of Dr. Bernardo and his numerous waif children; which is always a great occasion. It was held in the finest hall in London, Royal Albert Hall, which holds about ten thousand, and apparently all available seats were taken. The music was of a high order, admirably rendered by a thousand children of the Bernardo homes, the girls being prettily dressed in pink or blue. A large space in the center of the vast hall was preempted as a platform for the display of the occupations of these Homes, being a series of "Tableaux vivants," Lord Kinnaird presided and in a resonant distinct voice made the opening speech, followed by the founder of the charity, Dr. Bernardo, who gave an able and impressive statement of the year's work. It was its twenty-sixth Anniversary; 5,416 homeless and desti- tute children have been cared for the past year; 18,839 in these twenty-six years; of whom 5,005 have been helped to emigrate, He said "I have 1,900 little daughters!" 1,000 of these have been this year in the Ilford Homes. Then followed a unique object lesson, as the beneficiaries trooped forward successively to the central rostrum and illustrated, ten workshops in 346 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS full swing, — some very raw material, — young men ready to embark for Manitoba next morning, — the babies play hour — crowning the May queen, — wash day in the Homes, — a procession of Young Craftsmen, — girls physical exercises, — Naval drill on board a Training ship, — the lame, the halt, the blind, — Fire brigade, and aid to the kijured, etc. The programme was carried through in perfection, and was a thrilling spectacle that called for the requisite funds for sup- port, more eloquently than any words could have done. God bless Dr. Bernardo and his work! The hour has found its man, and the man has found his mission. One afternoon I strolled to old St. Pancras church and Cemetery, now converted by the charity of Lady Burdett Coutts into ST. PANCRAS GARDENS. It lies north of the Midland railway station. There I found extremely old gravestones, some of whose inscriptions were defaced by the tooth of Time; many of them had been removed and stacked or grouped in picturesque fashion to make way for gardens to promote the happiness and health of the poor, and aged, the children, and the masses. In the center is a high and handsome new monu- ment, and sundial, with this inscription graven on the marble. "Here in Christ's acre, where this dial stands, With pious care and borne by reverent hands, Some wanderers garnered in from East and West Among the home loved lie in solemn rest. PARLIAMENT AND PREMIER 347 Severed in life by lines of age, race, faith and clime They bide — alike — the last soft touch of Time, And when God's Sun, which shone upon their birth Ends his bright course, and vigil of the earth, When o'er this disc that day's last shadows flee, And death no more divides, as doth the Sea, The Dead will rise, partake the life God gave. Creator! Savior! bless each opening grave! Thy word hath writ the blest — No conscience clear In thought and word. All must thy judgment fear, Only our own wild words which fashioned prayer When life was parting, still move the ambient air. Pray you that God, who made, will grant that we May with the pure in heart the Godhead see." Near by is a monument raised to the Godwins. On one side is engraved Mary Woolstonecraft Godwin Author of A Vindication of the Rights of Woman Born 27 Apr. 1759 Died 10 Sept. 1797. On the next side is William Godwin, Author of Political Justice, Born March 3, 1756 Died April 7, 1836. M 80. On another side it is stated Godwin's second wife, Mary Jane, died 1841 aged 75. The poet Shelley used to go courting Mary W. Godwin's daughter beside her mother's grave, before it was removed from its old position in this cemetery. The old church has undergone restoration and is 348 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS still worshiped in regularly. Here too lies the famous John Walker, Author of the Pronouncing Dictionary. He closed a life devoted to piety and virtue in 1807 aged 75. One of the oldest records is the following, verbatim et literatim: Elizabeth Green, Dyed 1698. Her "loving and much beloved husband" followed her in 171 5. It is here recorded of Morris Leversley that he was 54 years the faithful and zealous Secretary of the Foundling Hospital. On the recently erected monument and sundial, are many names which are declared to "have an interest for all time;" particu- larly conscientious mention being made of the "un- known and undistinguishable dead." CHAPTER XXVI. SEPULCHRES AND SHRINES. •In that village on the hill Never is sound of smithy or mill. The houses are thatched with grasses and flowers, Never a clock to toll the hours, The marble doors are always shut, You cannot enter in hall or hut, All in that village lie asleep; Never again to sow or reap; Never in dreams to moan or sigh, Silent, — and idle, — and low they lie." Kensal-Green cemetery is about five miles north westerly from the old city of London. On a fine midsummer day it is a pleasant ride — on the top of a yellow Kensal Green omnibus — through Hoi born street and by Edgeware and Harrow Roads, past Paddington station, to Kensal-Green. Leaving the conveyance at the Cemetery gate, I passed a gate house and wandered at will. There are 68 acres in this enclosure; two houses for inter- ment, an old house with catacombs, and the new catacombs; into which I descended. Two thousand are interred in the catacombs. Thirty two thousand plats, averaging five persons each, have been pur- chased, which would make [60,000 occupants of this 349 350 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Silent city, which was opened for sepulture in 1833. Some of the inscriptions and symbols are Parva domus. Magna Quies. (Small the house. The quiet great.; Tempus fugit, — the emblem being an hour glass. Memento Mori. — A boy and a skull. "After life's fitful fever he sleeps well." — "We loved her. Yes, no tongue can tell How much we loved her, or how well. God loved her too, and He thought best To take her home to be at rest." Here we find the name beloved by Americans, Hawthorne; and here rests the wife of our late min- ister to England (James Russell Lowell,) Frances Dunlap Lowell, Born in Brunswick, Maine March 20, 1825. Died in London 15 Febr. 1885. "I have heard of thee by the hearing of the ear, but now mine eye seeth thee." Near by is the sepulchre of another honored Amer- ican, J. Lothrop Motley Born at Dorchester, Mass. 15 April, 1S14. Died near Dorchester, Dorset 29 May 1877. "Truth shall make you free. God is Light; in Him is no shadow at all." This monumental stone to the United States Consul to the Zanzibar Government, and author of SEPULCHRES AND SHRINES 351 the famous history of the United Netherlands, is in the shape of a cross. He and his wife lie side by side. In this vicinity lies another of whom it is engraved: "To perpetuate, while language and marble shall remain, the name and character of the REV. SYDNEY SMITH. One of the best of men. His talents though admit- ted by his contemporaries to be great, were surpassed by his unostentatious benevolence, his fearless love of truth, and his endeavor to promote the happiness of mankind by religious toleration and by national freedom. He was born 3rd June 1 77 r. He became canon residentiary of St. Paul's Cathedral 1831. He died Feb. 22, 1845." With him his wife is interred, and their eldest son dying at the age of 24; of whom the beautiful record is noteworthy; "His life was blameless. His death was the first sorrow he ever occasioned his parents but it was deep and, lasting." On another tablet are the expressive lines, "O Bliss, when all in circle drawn about him, Heart and ear were fed to hear him. How good, how kind: and he is gone!" J. M. Dougall Stuart, South Australian Explorer, the first who crossed the continent from the South to the Indian Ocean. Born 1815. — Died 1866. Another monument was inscribed with this senti- ment, Thou wilt not sever us, O Lord our God, In thy blest mansions. On earth's chill sod Our hearts are torn with partings. One by one 352 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS The loved and cherished leave us. Every stone The lone sad cemetery holds is faced With lines that find their parallels deep In our souls, thus with thy chisel hewed In strokes severe. — Yet be thy name adored In all thy dealings, in thy purpose deep, A blessing lies, unscanned by us who weep. Passing on we come to the monument erected by subscription in 1869 and surmounted by the poet and author's bust, James Henry Leigh Hunt Born Oct. 19, 1784. Died Aug. 28, 1859. "Write me as one that loves his fellowmen." The marble reared to the artist-painter, George Cruikshank who died in 1878 at the age of 86 attests that he was "For thirty years a total abstainer, and ardent pioneer and champion, by personal word and pen of Universal Abstinence from intoxicating drinks. His remains were removed to St. Paul's." This mon- ument was erected by his widow. Here are scions of the royal family. To the Duke of Sussex, sixth son of King George III. Died 1843. By his own desire, the first in the annals of his country to be buried among the People. Also Sophia, daughter of George III. Here sleeps one far from the land that gave him birth, Womesh Chunder Mazumdar. Died Aug. 30, 1873. SEPULCHRES AND SHRINES 353 Here is a statement which could not truly be en- graved on every politician's tomb: "An honest Statesman." This is recorded of Sir William Moles- worth who died in i860. Here lie also two daughters of Sir Walter Scott. Anne, and Charlotte Sophia, wife of J. G. Lockhart, who died in 1831. On other marbles we read Sir Alexander Cockburn Lord Chief Justice of England. Sir Charles L. Eastlake, Baronet President of the Royal Academy. The wife of Walter Trevelyan, who died in 1838. John Liston the Comedian. He was a quaint genius whose . oddities used to provoke boisterous mirth at the brilliant Covent Garden theater. Such remind us that "Life's but a walking shadow — a poor player That struts his hour upon the stage And then is heard no more." In the N. W. corner we find the granite tomb of Allan Cunningham, the Author of "British Painters, Sculptors and Architects," — and of other works. Near the South Branch road is Charles Kemble the Tragedian; a child of Richard Cobden, whose father by desire of Queen Victoria was buried in Westmin- ster Abbey, lies near the South Road. Among noted interments are the Novelist Anthony Trollope; Robert Owen the Philanthropist, who was of Welsh birth, who originated infant schools, secured the reduction of hours of labor of factory workers, and supported 354 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS the movements for national education and interna* tional arbitration. He spent his fortune in seeking to improve his fellow men. He died in 1858 at the age of 87. In this cemetery we find the graves of the poet, composer, novelist and painter, Samuel Lover who died in 1869, — of Mulready the artist, who passed on in 1864, — of one who beautifully illustrated the Bible and Pilgrim's Progress, John Cassell the pub- lisher, — of John Foster the Historian, Biographer, Critic, of whom it is recorded: "Noted in private life for the robustness of his character and the warmth of his affections; for his ceaseless industry in litera- ture and business; the lavish services which in the midst of his crowded life, he rendered to friends; for his keen appreciation of every species of excellence; and the generosity of his judgments on books and men." He died in 1876. Under a white marble tomb is all that was mortal of that king of Novelists, the author of "Vanity Fair," William Makepeace Tnackeray; who was born in 181 1 and died in 1863. By him rests his mother. He was the son of her first marriage. Near him rests the witty Punch Caricaturist, John Leech who was a school -fellow with Thackeray at Charter house. "They were pals together," remarked the quaint sexton who showed me their graves, — who is himself a part of the spot, having been on duty here twenty years. "But come they great, or come they small, I gather them in!" Four, — celebrated in the realm of song, or compo- SEPULCHRES AND SHRINES 355 sition are buried in Kensal Green Cemetery ; Therese Tietjens, Sir George Smart, Balfe, and Vincent Wallace. Tietjens died in 1877. She was the legit- imate successor of those queens of song, Malibran and Grisi — was nineteen years a member of Her Majesty's Opera, possessed of a magnificent voice, the most popular artist of her time, and endowed — said the London Figaro — with the noblest attributes of true womanhood. At 46 she crossed the river, and we may hope joined the choir Immortal. Sir George Smart was the instructor of Jenny Lind and Madame Sontag. For more than half a century he was at the head of the musical profession of London; directed the music at the Coronation of King William IV and Queen Victoria; and gave lessons till he was long past eighty. Balfe, the Irish Composer of the Bohemian Girl, the Rose of Castile and other operas, died in 1870, aged 62; and William Vincent Wallace, the coin- poser of Maritana and many most popular melodies died at fifty in 1865. Opposite him is the shrine of one whose poems enrich immeasurably English liter- ature, whose humor is the delight of all; whose heart was large enough to take in the sinning and the sor- rowing. By his own direction the inscription is: He sang the Song of The Shirt. In Memory of Thomas Hood. Born 23 May 1798; Died 3 May 1845 Erected by Public Subscription 1854. Also of Jane Hood, his wife. With reverence and affection I kissed his monu- §56 GOLDEN MEMORIES Of OLD WORLD LANDS ment; and left the scene, feeling this was consecrated ground; that "Here are hearts once pregnant with celestial fire, And hands that waked to ecstasy the living lyre. ' In an earlier chapter is narrated our visit to Bun- hill (Bone-hill) Fields, the famous nonconformist cemetery where is shrined the casket of one of the "two great creative minds of the latter half of the seventeenth century," — Bunyan, the author of the Pilgrim's Progress. A limited portion of Kensal Green cemetery has been reserved for others than the church of England. Abney Park Cemetery in Stoke Newington, London North, is the beautiful modern burial place of Con- gregationalists and Nonconformists; thither I turned my pilgrim steps. It was publicly dedicated to the purpose of inter- ment in 1840. It contains forty-six acres, and it is a mile around it. It is a well-shaven green lawn, bordered with trees and shrubbery, and beautified with beds of geraniums and other brilliant flowers. It has a large number of handsome and costly mon- uments. It was originally the residence and property of Sir Abney; a man so devout, that he left the Lord Mayor's annual Banquet to attend prayers with his family! It was in Sir Abney's home that the eminent father of English hymnody, Dr. Isaac Watts, resided for years. Dr. Watts was a bachelor, and his loneliness touched a feeling of sympathy and tenderness in Sir Abney and his wife, who invited the Poet to spend a SEPULCHRES AND SHRINES 357 couple of weeks with them. It resulted in his perma- nent sojourn as one of the family thirty-six years, till his death. An ivy covered knoll, and broad arch- ing tree on the north was Dr. Watts' favorite resort which I sought out; the associations of the spot brought the noble bard very near. He was buried in Bunhill Fields, as at his death this was a noble- man's residence. There is a monument to him in Abney Park cemetery. Among famous interments here are Dr. John Pye Smith who was 45 years pastor of the Congregational church assembling in the old Gravel Pit meeting house; for fifty years Secretary of the College for educating pious young men for the ministry. He died in 1851 aged 76. His monument records — "Not I, but the grace of God which was with me." Other distinguished persons buried here are John Harris D.D., Principal of the New College, London, — died 1856; Samuel Morley, son of the late John Morley, a business man of the highest character; Henry Forster Burder D.D., — Rev. John Mason (Wesleyan), Rev. Alexander McAwland D.D. 1886, — Rev. George Mollet Murphy, Minister at Borough Road Congregational church, 1866 to 1887. Among Inscriptions were the unvarnished but forceful couplets, "Praises on tombs are words but idly spent, A man's good life is his best monument," '•The sting of Death, there is we know full well, But when, or where, or how no one can tell. Be it at morn or noon, or now, or then, Death is most certain, but uncertain when?" 3SS GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Among all these distinguished names, there is per- haps none more worthy to be held up to youth as a model — than Samuel Morley, London's eminently noble merchant. He was entirely honest, his gifts were most munificent, his heart went out toward young men, he was a sagacious adviser, a sympa- thizer in the Labor movement, while a believer in boards of conciliation and arbitration; and having built up a vast mercantile and manufacturing busi- ness such that he received 2,000 letters a day, he still contrived to render his home-life ideal. Offered a peerage through his friend Mr. Gladstone, he declined it. His tombstone has the simple record, A Servant of Jesus Christ. One morning in the mild September I crossed Waterloo bridge for an excursion to the largest of the English royal palaces, and in some respects the handsomest, HAMPTON COURT PALACE. The fog hung over and enveloped the city, quite blurring the vision for a few moments, and giving a faint inkling of the famous London fog in November, the worst month of the phenomenon; but it lifted speedily. The ride by the South Western Ry. occu- pies less than an hour; by the tortuous Thames the palace is twent}' miles S. W. from the Metropolis. It consists of over a thousand rooms, with numerous gateways and towers, in an ornamental garden, and park, with fountains, a maze, and orangery. It was founded in 1515 by Cardinal Wolsey who SEPULCHRES AND SHRINES 359 occupied it with his household of 500 retainers, dis- pensing a princely hospitality, and made it a present to his king, Henry VIII. Henry took up his resi- dence there, and in fancy we see him strolling in the lovely gardens and shady nooks, successively with the rivals of his stately queen, Katharine of Arragon, — sprightly Anne Boleyn, who was soon displaced in his fickle affections and sent to the Tower of London, — Jane Seymour, who died soon after giving birth to Edward VI, Anne of Cleves, who failed to satisfy his fastidious taste, Catherine Howard to whom he was privately married, and fifteen months later she was hurried to the executioner's block, — and last Cather- ine Parr who was a marvel of discretion and saved her neck. When the gay king was no more, young Edward VI. was often here; bloody Mary passed her honey-moon with Philip of Spain in this palace, and good Queen Bess here entertained her court and foreign visitors with banquets, sports and plays. To the princely Tudors succeeded the house of Stuart in a residence here, James I. and Charles I. Then Cromwell dwelt in these royal halls; and after him the gay and voluptuous Charles II. bringing his bride. William and Mary commissioned Sir Christopher Wrenn to add to the old castle the State Apartments which are now shown to the public. These emulate the magnificence of Versailles. Queen Anne was often here and the first two Georges brought thither their courts, but George the III. and his successors did not reside here, and most of the rooms in suite are allotted to aristocratic families. Queen Victoria 360 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS threw open the State apartments to the public with- out fee, since which ten million have passed through them. In these thirty rooms are 1,000 oil-paintings representing the skill of the best masters, among them Titian, Tintoretto, Vandyck, Paul Veronese Velasquez, Guido, Luini, Correggio, Rembrandt, Romano. Many pictures, valueless as works of art, have a historic interest. The Beauties of the court of Charles II. are numer- ous and depicted as very captivating. There is much costly tapestry and antique arras hanging, beautiful carvings and oriel windows, a clock made for Henry the VIII. and a handsome east facade 330 feet long, with a great fountain garden. There is a Haunted Gallery through which Queen Catherine Howard fled shrieking when banished to the Tower. Here a woman in white is said to have been heard and seen coming to the door of the royal closet, and hurrying away with unearthly shrieks. My informant pointing to the spot remarked smilingly that he would not affirm there was a ghost, but strange sounds had been heard in that quarter. The staircase which leads to the gallery is kept locked at night. Very handsome is the Great Hall built by order of Henry VIII, which is 106 feet long, 40 feet wide, and 60 feet high, with the most splendid Gothic roof of the Perpendicular period, in England. The grape vine at the end of the Pond Garden is one of the largest in Europe, planted in 1768. Through the Lion Gates guarded by two stone lions on the piers, which were put up by good Queen SEPULCHRES AND SHRINES 361 Anne, I passed into Bushy Park opposite which con- tains 1,000 acres, walked the mile-long avenue be- tween the handsome trees and took train for the KEW GARDENS. These, eight miles from the Mansion House, cover 250 acres. Passing a beautiful fountain and lake, I entered the Palm conservatory, the Lily glass-house, the Fern-house, and numerous other hot-houses. Here was the Victoria Regia from Guiana, the Jarrah tree trunk from Australia, orchids, cactuses and plants "ad infinitum." Their wondrous variety, beauty, exquisite color and sweetness must be seen to be appreciated. It is the most perfect collection in the world. "Were I in churchless solitudes remaining, Far from all voice of teachers and divines, My soul would find in flowers of God's ordaining, Priests, sermons, shrines!" CHAPTER XXVII. PREACHERS I HEARD IN LONDON. Some of the most noted pulpit orators I have already sketched in preceding pages; Arch Deacon Farrar whom I heard in Westminster Abbey, — Dr. Joseph Parker in City Temple, — Charles H. Spurgeon in Newington Tabernacle. I had also heard Dr. Marcus Rainford, Sen., Rev. F. B. Meyer, Dr. Grattan Guinness, Canon Holland in St. Paul's Cathedral who is a churchman of superior ability, — ■ Canon Wilberforce who spoke movingly in Exeter Hall, — Miss Mason, an elect lady, Capt. Sampson of the Salvation Army, and the Slum sisters with their artless, touching story; had sought out Wesley's Chapel, Assembly Hall on Mile-end-road, and the East End open-air service addressed by Rev. Charles Inglis. Another Sunday found me early at Christ's church, South of the Thames, near Westminster Bridge, where Rev. Newman Hall was then pastor, who had just returned from his vacation in the Alps. The church is a noble stone structure, a gallery on three sides; there are fluted pillars and stained glass windows. The organ began to play at a quarter to eleven, and the Episcopal service was read. Dr. Hall wears the clerical robe; shows his years, yet i§ PREACHERS I HAVE HEARD IN LONDON 363 full of nervous fire. He read the test of Elijah with the prophets of Baal, and preached on the text, "The God that answereth by fire, let him be God." After picturing the mountain scene, he dwelt first upon Elijah's courage, which asked only, What ought I to do? resolved to do it at any cost; courage which was emphasized by his natural cowardice, for he was afraid. Here he remarked — "the falls of Bible saints, — Abraham, Moses, Peter, — give me hope, that as they were accepted, I shall be." — II. Elijah's test and its acceptance. The test in our times is concern- ing faith, as it was then. Dr. Hall spoke impressively of the weakness of agnosticism as compared with faith. As the fire came down and consumed Elijah's sacrifice, so must the church seek the fire of the Holy Spirit. In the evening at City Temple I heard Dr. Reuen Thomas of Boston, Mass., on "Ye have called me Lord and Master; ye have done well." He defined the present as "a time of transition; little of ferment, much of movement, political, scientific, religious. Men are not satisfied to take truth on an ipse dixit but want it first hand. There is a going back to original documents. This is well, for while Science makes discoveries, the original facts on which well- being depends, remain unchanged. The question is less what elements make sustenance, than Am I using them? The question in Christianity is What use am I making of Christianity? Am I growing daily more selfish, less interested in my fellows, taking out of the world and putting nothing in it? 364 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD JVORLD LANDS Or is Christianity bread to my soul, so that I grow thereby spiritually ? Have I the spirit of Christ to- ward all? or rather the spirit of proud uppishness? The poor look toward the rich. A woman at a show, getting vexed at her child took it up and thoroughly shook it, and immediately every considerable monkey in the show looking on, seized the little monkey and shook it! We must have a gospel that binds men together. A gospel that cannot attract poor people is no gospel." Another Sunday I listened to Rev. A. J. Palmer of Folkestone England, — a Congregationalist. He is in his prime, of slender figure, with a fine literary style, marked earnestness and sincerity, and a power of holding his audience spellbound. The opening prayer was an outgoing of soul which gathered up individual cases, and laid them before the Father-God. Each utterance was the fitly chosen word, like apples of gold in pictures of silver and then no more, no weak- ening, no repetition. The text was Rom. 4:3, "Abra- ham believed God." He spoke of the doubt characteristic of the present time. "The question now is Have we a gospel to preach? "Carlyle in his last utterances said he must turn from the Gospel of Dirt, — material things and causes, — to the gospel he learned at his mother's knee. A great, good man was on the brink of death. He attempted to speak: 'I believe,' and sank back ex- hausted, 'in God,' said his daughter, — 'and in his son, the Lord Jesus Christ, ' finished the dying saint, Preachers i have heard In London m "In a certain town there is a tradition that once a year, the bells are rung by dead people, and bloodless hands hold the ropes. Too much the gospel bells are now struck by dead christians and dead ringers ring. We need a revival of Faith. Anglicanism and Ultra montanism are dragging the Juggernaut of churchcraft over the multitude. A gospel preached with faith and lived with intense conviction is the need of the times. "Doubters strike without courage, speak without emphasis. Doubters make doubters. The world will never be converted by men who doubt. We must be able to say I believe in God and in His Son, the Lord Jesus Christ. That great sage, Goethe said in his last moments, More light! More faith should be our prayer. "A bridge was to be thrown across a river. A peculiar rivet was needed. A workman was tempted to slight his work, but he made the rivet as strong as he could. A critical moment came, after a battle near the spot. The army were thrown back with all their weight upon the bridge. Will it stand? It depended on the Rivet and it stood, for it was well made, and the army was saved. Make your rivet for Eternity strong!" At night, on the site of Whitefield's Tabernacle, I heard a sermon from Rev. J. Jackson Wray, a Wesleyan, and from a family of preachers. The following Sabbath I went to hear him again, in the Iron Chapel which is in use while the new structure is being reared. He prayed that God would "shine 360 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS into our souls this glorious Sabbath day, that we might sit in the sunshine of his love; that He would speak to us and write his truth on our hearts; that we might have a realizing consciousness of God's love for us, so we should know no angel in heaven is better sheltered than we! Make the service ripe with bless- ing, bright with cheer." Before preaching he said, "What shall I say to the children? I saw in my garden yesterday a bee over- laden with honey from a sunflower so it couldn't fly away. Then another honey bee came and they talked it over together, and she put her wing under the one in trouble, but it was insufficient. Then she flew away and told another bee, and both came and lit by the side of the imprisoned one, and directly it was set at liberty. Then said I — here's a lesson for my bairns! So lend a hand! Help one another. Give somebody a lift. Do some one a good turn. Jesus Christ came to give us a lift to heaven." Dr. Wray is a large man, and a pleasant, easy speaker. He preached on "Thy testimonies are wonderful. The entrance of thy word giveth light." He told of "a man lost on a bleak Yorkshire moor. He was out in utter darkness, and after long striving could not find the way home. Then he sat down, and in the silence heard the curfew bell ring, and by its sound he knew the way to turn, and was guided to the light and happiness of his own hearth. "We are all travelers over the moorland of life. His Word is the bell that rings telling us the way home. The entrance of thy word giveth light. O, PREACHERS 1 HAVE HEARD IN LONDON 3C7 brothers mine, are you in perplexity, darkness? in the outer court of the great library of knowledge? Is your life a dead world spinning through the spaces of knowledge producing nothing? Open it to the word of God. Pray with all your heart, 'Take my poor heart and let it be Forever closed to all but Thee,' and there will come a luminosity into your life. Alex- ander visited Diogenes and asked what he could do for him? The philosopher replied 'Stand out of my sunshine.* Get out of the way of others, and let the perpetual study of the word of God cause you to dwell in its sunshine. " The foundation stone of Whitefield's Taber.nacle was laid by him in 1756. It was a church with a history. The Countess of Huntingdon, Garrick and Benjamin Franklin had contributed to its erection and sat within its pews, with Chesterfield, Hume, Goldsmith, Joshua Reynolds, the great artist sitting with a trumpet at his ear, — Bolingbroke the unbe- liever, Horace Walpole, the sainted Fletcher, the brilliant Irving, the poet Toplady, author of one of the hymns the christian world best loves, — "Rock of Ages;" and beneath the ancient Tabernacle lie that poet's remains. But it had become insecure and had to be taken down, and a new tabernacle reared in its stead. Its site on Tottenham-court-road is a fine one. During my last' visit to London it was dedicated. Of the Baptists, Rev. Archibald Brown is promi- nent, who preaches at the Baptist Tabernacle, Bur- 368 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS dett Road, London's east end. He is successful in securing the people's ear. His house was thronged when I heard him on a week night, — on the text "Simon, Satan hath desired to have thee," etc. A good plain sermon. At Regent Square Presbyterian church where Rev. John McNeil was then the popular pastor, I heard Dr. Mitchell of Aberdeen, Scotland. He has a fine head framed in silvery hair, wears gown and bands, and gracefully weaves smooth periods. The singing was congregational led by a precentor without organ or choir, from a metrical version of the Psalms, some of the hymns containing eighteen stanzas! Dr. Gibson, whose stalwart frame and robust character is familiar at Chicago, I heard again in his own pulpit in London. His church is in a handsome quarter beyond Regent's Park, London N. W. ; he appears to have a fine congregation. Another of the Congregational ministry, Rev. R. F. Horton I heard at Lyndhurst Road church, Hamp- stead, of which he is the able pastor. The occasion, a Sunday School Anniversary, was profitably im- proved. The location of this church is exceptionally beautiful, surrounded with massive and elegant resi- dences. One Sunday I went to St. James Hall, Regent Street and Picadilly, to hear the leaders of the advance movement at their West End Mission. The hall has two galleries, one on three sides, and seats 2,500. In the morning Rev. Mark Guy Pearse preached to a considerable congregation a very beau- PREACHERS I HAVE HEARD IN LONDON 369 tiful sermon. He is a large, fine-looking gentleman, with dark eyes, Burnsides, silvery hair once black, and a fluent and winsome delivery. The hymn — "O day of rest and gladness" — was first sung, and it being Hospital Sunday, when all over London collec- tions were being taken up for this great charity, the Scripture lesson was the healing of the centurion's son. "Christ," said Dr. Pearse, "seemed always ready to go to the sick; his answer to this call was instantly, 'I will come.' In Christ's hospital are many sick, but no Incurables." In prayer he said "Help us that we may all bring some healing, some music, some sweetness into other lives." His style is pictorial. A born artist in words, he flashes picture after picture upon the camera in an elegant and graceful manner. I cannot better represent him, than by letting him speak himself. His text was — ■ "A blind beggar sat by the wayside, begging. Why are there blind? a child asks. Why does God make poor blind beggars? I wouldn't." Then Dr. Pearse painted a world where every one was strong, well, and had plenty of money. "Tenderness flew away. Pity flew away. 'There is no need of me here,' she said. Trust departed. Self-denial flew away to another — and perhaps a happier — -world. Sympathy, brave Endurance, Gratitude spread their wings and were gone. And when these angels were all fled, men said — 'Give us back the life where tenderness and pity and sorrow and benevolence lived. Oh, send us back the sorrowful, the needy, and suffering. And the angels came back to earth. Why are there 370 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS blind? To stir our hearts with compassion. Dark- ness hath ministries as well as day. Night shows us millions of worlds while day shows us but one. We need the poor for their ministry to us. We owe them kindness, it is a debt, not gift. "No injustice is done them. In God's plan they have their compensations for their losses." In the midst of his discourse, he had the collection taken for the London Hospital; which has 790 beds and requires about a quarter million dollars to carry it on a twelve month. At 6:30 p. M. I was at St. James Hall again, to hear the noted Rev. Hugh Price Hughes, who estab- lished this mission. At this early hour for summer, all the seats were taken. The first half hour is given to music. A large orchestra, consisting of many violins, bass-viols, cornet, etc — nearly all whose service is gratuitous for this meeting, played choruses, the congregation alternating with hymns. Mr. Hughes is in the meridian of life, of medium height and build, with thin dark hair, wears eye glasses, and is practical rather than poetic, in style of address. None could fail of his meaning. On account of its being hospital Sabbath he preached on Christ the healer of souls, from the text, The whole need not a physician but the sick. "Most sins and vices come through the weakness of mankind. Passions whose legitimate place is useful run away with them." He introduced his discourse with the petition — "O Lord, we beseech Thee put forth thy saving power in our souls now, for Christ's sake, Amen." PREACHERS I HAVE HEARD IN LONDON 371 "No phase of our complex nature," — he said — "ought to be mutilated or wholly suppressed. I have no sympathy with the preacher who said that all children were at birth children of the devil. A min- ister once so declared, and a gentleman writing him a letter inquired after his health and how was his wife, — and the four little devils, how were they? — I believe West London the most wicked spot under heaven. Sin is a spiritual weakness. How should it be healed? There are the theories of Mrs. Humphrey Ward, and the Ethical enthusiasts, and the Theosophists. These attempts to save are pathetic; all noble dreams; but only dreams. Where are their trophies? What drunkard reclaimed? What are the results? The Salvation Army in one week has had more results than all these ethical societies in half a century. Ex-drunkards testify We are the living witnesses of the power of Christ to save from drunkenness. To-night there are drunkards here, or those who were; gamblers are here; men and women of impure lives; men who need to be delivered from the love of money, from bad temper, from laziness, from subtle forms of selfishness. See what a practical gospel I am preaching. Does your religion save you from your particular sin, now? What you need is not so much pardon as deliverance from the power of evil." In connection with this Wesleyan West End mis- sion are the Sisters of the people, who are city .mis- sionaries, led by Mrs. H. P. Hughes. They wear light drab veils as a badge of their work, and sit 372 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS together on the platform. There were fifteen or twenty Red-coats of her majesty's service present. The clergy whose ministrations I heard, represent both churchmen and Dissenters, — Congregationalists, Presbyterians, Open communion Baptists, Wesley- ans, Salvation Army; one in spirit, able and aggres- sive. Canon Liddon, a foremost Episcopalian, Mrs. Gen. Booth of the Salvation Army, and Cardinal Newman of the Roman Catholic church died while I was in Britain, all great in different ways, and widely lamented. CHAPTER XXVIII. THE STORY OF ONE DAY. One August morning at six o'clock I went to Covent Garden Market. The air was cool, mist-clouds hung in the sullen skies, for England's clime "Is fickle, and her year most part deformed With dripping rains," but this day ended in beauty. Passing down South Hampton Row and Long Acre, the streets were still and almost deserted, for Londoners start late in the mornings, but I discerned the route by a few grocer wagons and hand-carts which were headed for the scene of traffic. Near it were lines of wagons stand- ing with their round baskets full of greengrocers merchandise. At the central rendezvous all was activity, men carrying tall stacks of empty baskets on their heads to and fro, retail dealers getting their fresh supplies, sellers displaying their wares. The scene lacked the picturesqueness I had witnessed in markets on the continent. I bought some red raspberries and green gages, the latter being a chief fruit of the Island, sweet and juicy, but this season dear as the crop was small. When I returned to my lodgings it was seven o'clock, an hour before the maid brings in my simple but relishful breakfast of bacon 373 374 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS or mutton chop, bread and unsalted butter, orange mar- malade and tea. Posting some letters and dispatching my meal with the good appetite which an early walk imparts, I mounted an omnibus at Russell Square for a ride to the home of the Sage of Chelsea. Down through the heart of London we went to Piccadilly, where I changed for a Chelsea stage, another long ride bringing me to Oakley street, whence a few moments' walk led to Great Chey-ne Row. House No. 24 bears the significant words "Carlyle House," and a marble tablet in the front wall represents the peasant philosopher's rugged face. It is inscribed: Carlyle Lived at 24 Chey-ne Row 1834 to 1881. At the window sills were pots of blooming flowers, as Jane used to have them, and in the rear a small greenswarded yard lined with shrubs. The house is a plain, substantial, three story brick with basement- kitchen; one of a long row. I had the good fortune to be shown the main floor parlors and dining-room, then on the first floor (second story) the pleasant large drawing-room. Here the old Scotch thinker had his bed brought at last, and at the ripe age of eighty-six faded out of life. On the highest floor, lit by skylight was Carlyle's study which he had had built, where he might be in utter privacy, away from men and things. How very near this presence chamber seemed to bring the great Departed! How long that strong original character had filled this place with his unique personality ! Here he had revolved THl 7 STORY OF ONE DAY 375 those great electric thoughts which had flashed light and heat on two hemispheres! Here he had forged his thunderbolts. Up and down this stairway how many times he had trodden, who was to pass this way no more ! In the drawing-room we seem to see him with his guests and the dark-eyed, sprightly Jane Welsh Carlyle, where quaint wit and wisdom flew about like gleaming sparks from the ruddy fire, while the tea was drawing. Host and wife and visitor, where are they! The undying association summon their forms, and bring us into touch as never before. "Long, long be my heart with such memories filled, Like the vase in which roses have once been distilled; You may break, you may ruin the vase if you will, But the scent of the roses will hang round it still." A moment's walk south from this abode, which the maid assures us "many people of quality have desired in vain to see," brings us to the tasteful green park fronting the Thames. In its center is a full-size sitting statue of the essayist and historian, Carlyle, mounted on a Scotch granite pedestal. The attitude is easy and life-like, one limb crossing the other, the figure enveloped in a large coat, the feet encased in shoes, the hands crossed on the knees, the head bare with long shaggy locks, full short beard, and pene- trating eyes under beetling brows. Beneath his great chair are represented a half dozen books. I met an old gentleman who had often seen Carlyle, who said the statue was extremely like him; adding he was a grouty old fellow who disliked to be noticed in the street, and would slam the door after him when he 376 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS entered his own house, as if to shut out the too in- quisitive world. The monument is inscribed Thomas Carlyle, born Dec. 4, 1795 at Ecclefechan Dumfriesshire. Died Febr. 5, 1881, at Great Chey-ne Row, Chelsea. Beyond Chey-ne Walk and its two small embowered parks, are the Thames embankment, the river, and its two huge bridges. Walking eastward, I came to a handsome residence on whose plate was engraved "Queen's House." Here awhile lived Elizabeth after- ward known as the Virgin Queen of England ; recently the home of the poet and artist Dante Gabriel Rosetti. A flying figure stands upon a globe crowning the summit of the roof. In the adjacent park is a Fount- ain with Rosetti's bust, erected by Alma Tadema and others. A short walk further brought me to a still more venerated shrine, the last earthly home of George Eliot. Here again I had the rare good fortune to be shown the apartments of that gifted author and poet. Here on the first or main floor was her dining-room, over it her drawing-room facing a rural prospect, though latterly a row of buildings has taken the place of verdant foliage. In the second story front was her morning-room, and the secretary on which she wrote. To this home she came from Wilshire the November after her marriage to Mr. Cross. Up another flight, I saw the front chamber into which the sun shone lovingly, and the occupant looked out on the pretty green park, and the ever- flowing Thames. Here was the bed on which after three days of illness she passed away. Every faculty The story of one day §77 brightly vigorous, just as a new wedded life of ex- traordinary joy and sweetness was opening before her; one of the few justly-termed great minds; one whose works will long live after her, noble, masterly, inspiring! With a laurel leaf for a keepsake I passed on. Here, hard by is the handsome house of the distin- guished physician and naturalist Sir Hans Sloan. In the reverse direction, I found the ivy covered, three storied house of the eccentric famous painter J. M. W. Turner who died in 185 1, and whose paintings cover the walls of a room in the National Gallery. The Old Church, Chelsea, is historic— belonging to the fourteenth century, though it had successive enlargements. The eminent Sir. Thomas More built the archway of the south chapel in 1528. The capitals of the pillars are wholly unique. There are numerous interesting ancient monuments; one to Lady Cheyne (pronounced Chay-ny) 1698; one to the publisher of the celebrated letters of Junius (1805). A supreme interest attaches to this church, for here king Henry VIII. was married to his third wife Jane Seymour. Here worshiped the accomplished, pious bat unfortunate Lady Jane Grey; here also came Queen Elizabeth in her youth. Here is the famous Vinegar edition of the Bible of 171 7 so-called because the phrase, "Lord of the Vine- yard" is rendered "Lord of the Vinegar!" A monument to Sloane adjoins the old church. He died, it states, in 1753, in. the 92nd year of his a g e * * # * ending a virtuous and beneficent life. 378 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LAUDS Chelsea has an extensive Hospital for sick and incurable children; and a club and Evening Home for young women, the funds of which are supplied by Miss Egerton under the administration of Miss Pitt, who explained to me the plan of evening classes from 6 to 10 o'clock every night but Sunday, for sewing, reading, writing, games; books and papers being provided. A Bible class is held Sunday after- noons with a tea at 5 p. M. free to members. Mem- ber's Subscription, a penny a month. Taking a steamer I glided down the Thames past the Westminster, Charing cross, Waterloo, Black - friars and Southwark bridges, the House of Parlia- ment presenting a magnificent appearance from the water. At London Bridge I transferred to a larger steamer, passing the Dry docks where ships are launched, the India docks, and finally landing at GREENWICH. In the Painted Hall I saw portraits of naval and military heroes, battle scenes, and relics of Lord Nelson; his vest stained by his mortal wound. Here too are ship models in the Museum. In an extensive park with forest trees, high hills, and a grassy sward, is the Greenwich Observatory from which latitude and longitude are reckoned for the world. Return- ing to the pier I met a characteristic English Punch and Judy exhibition, surrounded by a street crowd. The huge red orb had sunk below the horizon, and the shop-lighted streets were swarming with hurrying crowds as I returned to my lodgings. THF STORY OF ONE DAY 870 George Eliot is buried at Highgate Cemetery and thither I early repaired. HIGHGATE is about four and a half miles north of London, on high ground, the residence of the munificent Baroness Burdett Coutts, and is a place of interesting historic associations. It began with the Norman settlement of Great Britain under the Conqueror. Here many celebrities have dwelt, among whom were Lady Arabella Stuart, Dr. Isaac Watts, William and Mary Howitt, Ruskin, Tom Moore occupying a house named Lalla Rookh; Henry T. Buckle, Faraday, Leigh Hunt, and Beaconsfield. Here too was a nephew of the sacred lyrist Charles Wesley, so precocious a musical genius, that when so young as to be tied in a chair, he played the harpsicord! As visitors, came also Irving, Lamb, Wordsworth, John Wilson, Fred- eric Maurice, Julius Hare. More identified with Highgate than any of these, by long association was Samuel Taylor Coleridge, — poet, critic, philosopher. They with whom he lived the last nineteen years of his life prepared the fol- lowing tribute to his worth: — "Buried at Highgate old chapel — Samuel Taylor Coleridge, poet, philosopher, theologian. This truly great and good man resided for the last nineteen years of his life in this hamlet. He quitted the body of this death July 25, 1834, m the 62nd year of his age. Of his profound learning and discursive genius his literary works are his imperish- able record. To his private worth, his social and 380 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LA\D$ christian virtues, James and Ann Gilman, the friends with whom he resided during the above period, dedi- cate this tablet. Under the pressure of a long and most painful illness, his disposition was unalterably sweet and angelic. He was an everduring, ever loving friend, the gentlest and kindest teacher,* the most engaging home companion. O framed for calmer times and nobler hearts,— O studious poet, eloquent for Truth! Philosopher, contemning wealth and death, Yet docile, childlike, full of life and love, — Here on this monument thy friends inscribe Thy worth. — Reader! for the world mourn. A light has passed away from earth, But for this pious and exalted christian Rejoice! and again I say unto you, Rejoice. Ubi Thesaurus, IbiCorof S. T. C." Seeking out the aged sexton I made a pilgrimage to Coleridge's tomb. It is in the very ancient High- gate chapel. The youth of to-day little know how conspicuous a character Coleridge was in a former generation, how numerous and reverential were his admirers, how wide an influence he exerted on liter- ature and religious thought. Thus wrote his compeer Charles Lamb : "Come back to memory like as thou wert in the dayspring of thy fancies, with Hope like a fiery column before thee, the dark pillar not yet turned, Samuel Taylor Coleridge! Logician, Metaphysician Bard! "Education without parallel, Reading, that equip- ment that outstrode every Englishman since Bacon!" THE STORY OF ONE DAY 381 Very interesting likenesses of Coleridge are pre- served in the Highgate Literary and Scientific Insti- tution, which I found well worthy a visit. His own composition for his epitaph is quaint. "Stop christian passerby! stop child of God, And read with gentle breast. Beneath this sod A poet lies — or that which once seemed he, O lift one thought in prayer for S. T. C." From the poet's sepulchre I repaired to the Ceme- tery, which was set apart for this use in i860, — is on hilly ground and has many beautiful monuments- Here I found a distinguished American's grave, Right Hon. John Singleton Copley, a historical painter, also the grave of the man to whom Great Britain owes the Penny Postage system, Sir Rowland Hill, d. 1879, — Michael Faraday the chemist's grave; also a beautiful white monument to that charming singer, Chicago's favorite, Parepa Rosa. Her death was in 1874. Her mother lies beside her. At some dis- tance is Carl Rosa's tomb, probably erected by his later and surviving wife, inscribed Carl Rosa, Born 1842. Died 1889, aged 47. "Lost to all but memory! Not to be was that manhood In which so much was achieved. " Under his caressing touch, the beautiful soul of the Violin found expression, and his amiable Parepa was a very skylark of song. I count the night en- chanted when I heard them long ago. Here too we come across the family tomb of Charles Dickens, Dying in 1870 he was buried at 382 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Westminster Abbey. Here lie his wife Catherine, his daughter Annie, and three sons. Seldom do we find a more uplifting record than the following: In memory of Elisabeth Wife of the Rev. Alexander McAuley. Who after a life of devotion to God Unwearied zeal for souls, and Care for the Poor, Was suddenly called Home On the sixth of March, 1886, Aged 67, She desired that this only should be said of her, A Sinner Saved. Upon a tablet is engraved: In loving memory of little Jack, The Boy Missionary, Who died in 1889, aged 7, Off Lake Tanganyika. "A little child shall lead them." Erected by S. S. Children. Upon an exquisite stone-pedestal surmounted by a marble cross doubtless mother love had inscribed: Dear Little May And Baby Phil. Other marbles bear severally the following brief but expressive sentiments, ' 'How beautiful is God! "So He giveth His beloved Sleep. "Bonis et Mors, et vita dulcis est, "Not lost from memory, nor from love, "But gone to our Father's home above. THE STORY OF ONE DAY 383 "He loved and was beloved. At Rest. The word which carries a shock and pang has been here softened by christian faith into "Entered into rest,"— "Passed to the Better land,"— "Translated," — and "Gone Home." In the unconsecrated part, part way up a gentle eminence, is a very tasteful gray monument inscribed in George Eliot's own beautiful words: Of those immortal dead who live again In minds made better by their presence. Here lies the body of George Eliot, Mary Ann Cross, Born 22 Nov. 1819. Died 22 Dec. 1880. In the rear is a large flat stone engraved, George Henry Lewes. Born 18 Apr. 1817. Died 30 Nov. 1878. She had founded a Scholarship called the George Henry Lewes scholarship for a needy student in Cambridge University, saying "This is my monu- ment to Mr. Lewes." The husband, John Walter Cross, who made her last year one of idyllic happi- ness was once a New York banker, and now resides in London, an extensive shareholder in a railway. Let us remember the sentiment often uttered by her, ere she went to join "the choir invisible whose music is the gladness of the world." "The only worthy end of all learning, of all science, in fact of all life, is — that human beings should love one another better." CHAPTER XXIX. A TALE OF THREE CITIES. "I should be pleased to receive a visit from you, and show you the town where lived John Bunyan," - — wrote a lady of Bedford. One summer morning I took the Midland express at St. Pancras station. An hour's ride brought me forty-nine miles through a cheerful country of well cultivated farms, bounded by hawthorn hedges, to the peaceful river Ouse, on whose nothern bank lies the major part of a city of 20,000 inhabitants, BEDFORD. Here my friend met me and conducted me through this old and pleasing town. Its charter dates back to the twelfth century, the reign of Henry II. We passed St. Peters, a handsome stone church of the establishment. Near it is a fine colossal monumental statue of Bunyan preaching, a tall strong figure with beaming and soulful face. St. Cuthbert's church is interesting; 780 years old, its fine Norman arches remain as first built, though the church is recently restored. St. Paul's handsome church adjoins the market place, We stop at 3S4 A TALE OF THREE CITIES 385 "bunyan's meeting" to inspect the Baptist church in the heart of Bedford organized in 1650, of which he became a communi- cant under holy Mr. Gifford, who helped to lead him into the christian life, — and of which he was chosen pastor when released from his long imprisonment. Here is Bunyan's chair, and the door of the County Gaol, through whose bars he was wont to converse. The handsome bronze doors were presented by the Duke of Bedford; they illustrate scenes from Pil- grim's Progress. They are the work of Fred Thrupp, Sculptor, and are modeled after the famous ones at St. Mark's, Venice; and cost $2,500. At. Dr. Brown's parsonage I saw Bunyan's cane and mug, and his deed of gift of his home to his wife in his own handwriting. We crossed the river- bridge, viewing where the old Gaol stood, in which he was first incarcerated. It has been torn down, and a new bridge spans the stream. Reaching my friend's home, I found the trim hedge, the velvet turf, the House Beautiful, — the father a barrister, the mother a temperance leader of rare administrative ability, and two charming and accomplished daughters. It is a great pleasure to the tourist to study the home life of a foreign country. Here, as in several other English and Scotch homes it was good to see the regularity and decorum of family worship, the housemaids in black dresses, white aprons and white caps being always present, and sitting together. My friend has maintained a mother's meeting among the poorer class of women GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS to whom she gives an annual tea. On the next day, I had the pleasure of sitting down to her long tables spread with refreshments, where mother and daugh- ters and helpers served buttered bread and cake and tea to more than sixty mothers, living near Bunyan's cottage, Elstow. After tea, and music in the hand- some parlors, we adjourned for an evening meeting to the adjacent Wesleyan chapel which this good family had helped open, where I had the pleasure of addressing these scores of mothers on the subject of their responsibilities, duties and encouragements, with special reference to total abstinence. My friends conducted me to the deliciously ante- quated Elstow hamlet, which seems a veritable Sleepy Hollow outside the great world's whirl and thunder- ing roar. Its exciting turbulent period was long ago when Cromwell died, the Monarchy was restored, and King Charles II. issued the Act of Uniformity, in which appeared the cruel narrowness of the seven- teenth century. No one might hold a meeting to save men from hell, without a common prayer book; For this mighty crime Bunyan was thrust as a felon into Bedford jail, away from his wife and little child- ren, one of whom was blind, and endured twelve years imprisonment. "Long years it tries the thrilling frame to bear." This edict was followed by the ejection of 2,000 dissenting ministers from their livings, Bunyan being the first on whom the penalty fell. When proffered release if he would desist from preaching, he answered sublimely, "If I were out of prison to-day, I would A TALE OF THREE CITIES 387 preach the gospel again to-morrow, by the help of God." But though this severity came through the malig- nity and blindness of men, God meant it for good, for otherwise Pilgrim's Progress had never been written, a glorious book worthy to go with the Bible around the world. It has been published in a great number of different languages. Elstow, a mile and a quarter S. W. of the Ouse, is built along a rambling street, its quaint cottages thatched, or roofed with ruddy tiles; with dormer windows, and upper chambers projecting beyond the lower story. We enter the humble dwelling where John Bunyan dwelt and tw ? o of his children were born. Here was that rarest gift, a creative mind. In the center of the village-green still stands the pedestal and stem of a broken cross, round which gathered the villagers while Bunyan addressed them. Near it is Moot Hall (Moat Hall) probably an ancient court house, where Bunyan preached for a season. The bell-tower dates from 1078, when a Benedictine Nunnery was founded here; in 1553 this property was granted to some nobleman who transferred it in 1616 to the Hillerdon famil}% some of whose graves lie in this old parish church and yard. The Hiller- dons in the days of King James I. resided in yon Ivy hung ruin called the Abbey. It has a beautiful mul- lioned window. This old parish church was attended by Bunyan when under conviction. Here is the pulpit of his time, very high and closed by a door. The church has been restored but retains very in- 388 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS teresting features. Under the church-floor the dead lie buried, and you walk on their monumental slabs. Yon bell-tower, separate from the edifice remains unchanged from Bunyan's time, when he used to ring its bell fearing the lightning might strike him dead in his impenitence. After conversion he began to exhort in 1655 and thus his gift of pulpit-oratory was discovered. This bell tower is like but three others in England, Blyth, Shrewsbury, and Christ's church bell-towers. The church has a commemorative Window of Bun- yan born in this parish, Elstow, in 1628, also stained glass windows representing scenes in his Holy War. Some of the inscriptions are interesting: Of one who died 1 791 , it is recorded; Soft were her manners, and serene her end; The Poor's firm friend; the fond and kind. Cheerful she sought each duty to fulfill, The tenor of her life, her maker's will. Of another dying in 1628: She died lamented, as she lived beloved, Another; He was a good man and a just, We transcribe another verbatim et literatim: "Here lyeth the body of Thomas Whitbread's wife; who lived a godly life, made a godly end, and to poor wimen in distrese, she was a daily Frind. She deseased in 1685." It is thought that Bunyan wrote the Pilgrim's Progress in his second imprisonment. His life com- prised sixty years and he issued sixty different publi- cations. A TALE OF THREE CITIES 389 From Bedford I made an excursion to CAMBRIDGE, the old University town upon the river Cam, a small meandering stream. "O fairest of all fair places; Sweetest of all sweet towns; With the birds and the grayness and greenness And the men in caps and gowns." The very thought of entering a scene so classic is exhilarating. Tradition fixes the date of the found- ing of the University at A. D. 630, but the record of the oldest college, Peterhouse, goes back only to 1257. Cambridge is fifty miles north of London. A tram leads from the station a mile and a half, past the large, new, Roman Catholic church, to the center of the town. Near Trinity church I noted on a tablet this inscription: "To the inspiring memory of Henry Martyn, scholar, evangelist, and man of God, a later generation of his own Cambridge dedicates this home of christian converse and counsel," Cambridge has 35,000 inhabitants and is a well built and attractive city. It has seventeen colleges, the general plan of each being a parallelogram built up on the four exterior sides, with a velvet lawn or quadrangle within, approached through a ponderous ornamental gate. The college buildings are of massive stone, blackened with centuries, beautified with flowering pots on the windowsills, the walls heavily festooned with mantling ivy. Many of the colleges line one long street; at their rear the Cam flows through green lawns, where tall forest trees fleck the. 390 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS turf with pensive shadows, and are the massive columns of Nature's cathedral. The exquisite beauty of these rural "Backs" is often remarked. Beginning with the Fitz William Museum of Paintings, where is Carlo Dolci's lovely Mater Dolor- osa, Cooper's fine Cattle-picture, a gold tressed maid by Millais, and a miniature copy of that match- less mausoleum, the Taj Mahal which cost two mill- ions sterling, — and other attractions which must be happily educatory to the vast number of students congregated here, — I passed on to the colleges in their order: Peterhouse where I recognized the poet Gray's room by the iron bars which he arranged with some idea of a fire-escape, — the church of St. Mary the Less, — Pembroke College opposite, founded in 1347, — John Rogers, the martyr, Edmund Spenser and William Pitt were members of Pembroke Hall, — the University Printing office, where fine work is done, — St, Botolph's church, — Queen's college founded by Queen Margaret wife of Henry VI; Corpus Christi college where the dining-room, and after-din- ner-room for wine — was, shown. Alas for the custom of wine drinking which tempts to intemperance! I remember the Cambridge graduate in London, who was reduced to extreme straits by the drink-habit; a sad and shameful story which has many parallels. King s College Chapel is the glory of Cambridge. It is the finest specimen of perpendicular Gothic ex- isting. Its beautiful ceiling is fan-vaulted, its twenty- four stained glass windows of the sixteenth century are fifty feet high; its interior length is 290 feet. A TALE OF THREE CITIES 391 width 85 feet, height to top of corner towers 146 1-2 feet. At the afternoon service I heard its delightful music. Fronting its Great Court is an elegant, open- work stone Screen. Passing the immense Library and Senate House, I enter stately St. Mary the Great, across the street, a fifteenth century edifice, the uni- versity church. After inspecting Cains ('Keys') college I enter the quaint and beautiful, ancient King's Gateway of Tri?iity College, which is the largest college in England and contains nearly one-third of all who attend Cambridge University. What an illustrious roll of members! Here studied Newton, Bacon, Dryden, Cowley, Herbert, Macauley, Byron, Thackeray, and Tennyson ! How must their memories stimulate the students of Cambridge for all time! How venerable these ancient walls! St. John s College has alumni scarcely less distin- guished or numerous. Among its students have been (O rare) Ben Johnson, Kirk White, Henry Martyn, Rowland Hill, Wordsworth, William Wilberforce, and Lord Palmerston, and other noble names. We view its two handsome bridges over the Cam, one like the Venetian bridge of sighs. We cross over and go through the Divinity School in yon red brick. It is interesting and we would love to linger. We enter the picturesque Round church of the Holy Sep- ulchre and are lost in wonder. How immense its columns! Founded in 1101, it is the oldest of the four Round churches of England. Beyond a bridge we find Magdalene College. Near this quarter is picturesque Jesus College where S. T. Coleridge was 392 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS a student. It has extensive grounds. At Sydney Sussex College studied the great Protector, Cromwell. We would not neglect the charming gardens of Christ's College, Milton's Alma mater. In the shadow of the traditional tree planted by the Great Poet in 1632, we ate of its delicious mulberries. A consider- able walk across and beyond the Cam brought us to THE NEWNHAM COLLEGE FOR WOMAN. Founded in 1875 by Miss Clough it consists of three fine buildings on a site of eight and a half acres. With Miss Clough, now deceased, were associated Miss Helen Gladstone a daughter of the English premier, and Miss Lee as Vice Principals. There is a con- siderable staff of lady lecturers. The number of pupils in the classes of 1890 is 142. The whole number on the College books is 502. I was conducted into Miss Gladstone's large and pleasant room, where among the literary treasures were pictures of her family. The whole number of students in Cambridge Uni- versity this year, in the seventeen colleges and two « Halls is 2364. What with rambling through num- berless velvet-turfed quadrangles, courts, gardens and shrubbery among the outer walls of thirteen colleges, and several of their interiors, — beside six churches and an art-museum, and return by train to Bedford, this was a very full day. A visit to Cambridge whets the desire to see the other of the two great aristocratic Universities of England, (sixty-three miles from London), A TALE OF THREE CITIES 393 OXFORD UNIVERSITY. It has the more picturesque situation being on a slight eminence while Cambridge is level. Its col- leges are more diffused, while those of Cambridge are ranged along a single street. Oxford High street is one of the finest thoroughfares in Europe. Words- worth spoke of the "stream like windings of that glorious street;" as an offset, Cambridge is distin- guished for the beauty of its Backs, or emerald lawns, and grand forest trees in the rear of its Col- leges. Oxford is for churchmen, or those subscribing to the articles of the Episcopal church. Cambridge admits also Dissenters. Mr, Gladstone suggests that Oxford has been eminent for men of action, Cam- bridge for men of thought. Oxford has an Episcopal See, and cathedral; has had its Tractarian epoch, and declension of some of its members to the Romish church. In one of the political revolutions it was the seat of the Royal court. It has been baptized with the blood of holy martyrs, Cranmer, Ridley and Latimer going to God by fire. Cambridge has its sublime King's Chapel, an object of art worthy to be ranked with Westmin- ster Abbey. Oxford has its great, rich and venera- ble Christ's church College and Cathedral. Cam- bridge has nineteen institutions, Oxford twenty-four. At both cities instruction began in the twelfth cen- tury, and incorporation in the thirteenth, though tradition ascribes the founding of Oxford to King Alfred in 972. Hawthorne says "The world has not another place like Oxford; it is a despair to see such 394 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS a place and ever leave it, for it would take a life time to comprehend and enjoy it." Of its twenty-four colleges and halls I sought a general view of nineteen. After securing quarters at Wilberforce Temperance hotel, I hastened to the afternoon service at the Cathedral. Entering the Tom Gate, where rings the Great Tom Bell that weighs seven and a half tons, I came upon the most imposing quadrangle in Oxford, the Tom quad, a beautiful green lawn. Here, about the eighth century, was the Nunnery of St. Frideswide. Where its church stood, is the college chapel and the Cathe- dral. Woolsey removed part of the nave to complete his quadrangle when founding Christ-Church College. The present form of the Cathedral is Norman. As you enter, on your left is the Lady chapel of the thirteenth century and the Latin of the fourteenth. The arches are double, the piers are alternately circu- lar and octagonal. There is a curious watch-chamber, which was probably for the occupancy of the Treas- urer of Jewels. The roof is beautifully groined with graceful pendants. Here are Berkeley's and Pusey's tomb's and Wilberforce Episcopal throne. The music was classic and charmingly rendered by white robed boys carrying the soprano, while men sustained the other parts. Through Peckwater quadrangle I came to the rural Meadows and Broad Walk. Here are fifty acres on the rivers Isis and Cherwell, and an avenue under overarching elms. In this college studied Locke, John and Charles Wesley, the Duke of Wellington, Peel, Pusey, Ruskin and Gladstone. A TALE OF THREE CITIES 395 The Dining Hall is the finest in England, 115 feet long, 40 wide, 50 high, adorned with many fine por- traits by Holbein, Vandyck, Hogarth, Lely, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Millais, Gainsborough; Gladstone's by Millais (1829) is here. The kitchen and its furni- ture are very interesting of their kind. At ten minutes past nine, each night, big Tom peals forth the curfew with 101 strokes, the number of students at the college foundation. Another day I had an enchanting ramble to Corpus Christi college, whose walls are black with the dust of centuries, — to Merton College the oldest, founded in 1264, which has various quads, a church with massive towers, and lovely gardens. Wickliffe was a fellow here; to St. Albans where studied Whately of "Whately's logic," — Oriel College where Bishop Butler, Newman, Keble, Arnold, Wilberforce, Hughes and Pusey were fellows, — to St. Mary's the large, very handsome University church, with its festooning ivy and tall spire and grave of Amy Robsart (1560), — St. Mary's Hall, — New Examination Hall, — All Soul's College, — St. Mary Magdalen (Maudlen) College with its founder's ivied tower, its Water walks beside the river, and its deer-park; some of whose classic sons were Woolsey, Hampden, Addison, Prof. John Wilson, Charles Reade and Gibbon. Brazenos College and the Ratcliffe Library with its sightly Rotunda came next, then Hertford College. Before the Sheldonean Theater and Ashmolean Musuem were stone supports crowned with the sculp- tured heads of famous men, a quaint device. Wad- 396 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS ham has beautiful gardens, old trees trailing their long branches like peacocks on the ground. St. John's is in a mass of shrubbery. Keble's beautiful college-church has elaborate mosaics depicting Script- ure scenes, and "Storied windows richly dight." New College is not new, being founded in 1380. Beyond all these are the Museum and Observatory and then a large Park and cricket grounds. Balliol college much frequented by the Scotch had among its Fellows Southey, Lockhart, Cardinal Manning, Dean Stanley, Matthew Arnold and the poet Swinburne. Somerville Hall and Lady Mar- garet Hall are for ladies. Of the old Castle there still remains a Norman tower; and tradition relates that the Empress Maud, besieged by Stephen, fled clothed in white with three followers out from the postern gate "in the dead waste and middle of the night," to a place six miles away and there took horse. CHAPTER XXX. IN LORDLY HALLS AND NATURE'S SHRINES. If you are a traveler plentifully endowed with im* agination, romance and enthusiasm, and would have three days in Elysium, spend them at Warwick, Stratford-on-the-Avon, and the ruins of Kenilworth Castle. Summon the ghost of the Past for your companion who will tell you that he knew Warwick as a town, before the Roman conquest of Britain, and that here was the royal palace of that Briton Chief, Caractacus, the bravest of the brave; that the daughter of King Alfred, noblest of England's kings, built here a fort; that Caesar's Tower of Warwick Castle was erected at the Norman Conquest, or possibly in the time of the Romans. But if you be neither enthusiast, an- tiquary or poet, still you will enjoy beautiful War- wickshire and this cluster of towns on Shakespeare's Avon, and the venerable pile which is one of the noblest English Castles. WARWICK is on a rocky hill, a gateway at each end of the prin- cipal street, the west surmounted with an ancient chapel. Down in the crypt of St. Mary's church, — the large perpendicular edifice with the handsome 307 398 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS tower, — which has foundations of the year 970— they showed me the curious ducking-chair which in olden times was used for disciplining obstreperous women ! Fastened in the chair and wheeled to a stream, the offender was plunged in the water and ducked back and forth! The church has effigies of the Beauchamps who were among the first Earls of Warwick. Near the East gate I saw the substantial house where the poet, Walter Savage Landor, was born in 1776, who died at Florence in 1864. Passing through a gate and park of great forest trees, and a roadway cut through stone over which hung ivy vines in riotous profusion, two other huge gates led to the Castle and its beauteous green lawn. There are three great towers, Caesar's being 147 feet high. I entered its gloomy dungeon where state criminals were kept in the reign of James I. Guy's tower has walls 10 feet in thickness. The Castle hoar and stately is of stone. In the great Hall, a tall cicerone showed us Guy's Porridge Pot or punch bowl of 1 5 71 , being an iron pot nine feet high, weighing 800 pounds,- — ancient armor of Henry the VIII., an immense pile of logs ready for the great fire-place; the great dining-room, the Red, the Cedar and the gilt drawing-rooms, in which was a sixteenth century Venetian table that cost $10,000, the State bedroom which has Queen Anne's bed and furniture. Looking out the window we saw immense and very beautiful Cedars of Leba- non; and just beyond the Castle flowed the classic Avon. Out in the conservatory of Lady Brooke, (the IN LORDLY HALLS AND NATURE'S SHRINES 390 present resident and heir) we saw the famous and superb Vase brought from Hadrian's Villa. In 1774 it was found in a lake at Tivoli. The whole place contains 1,000 acres and is five miles round. A dozen beautiful peacocks roamed in the yard. The family name of the last Earl of Warwick is Greville, a descendant of the ancient family of Beauchamp. At Leicester Hospital founded by Queen Eliza- beth's favorite for twelve indigent men, I looked on a piece of needle-work done by the interesting Amy Robsart, who figures in Scott's tale of Kenilworth. Each old man has a room and firing, and an annual allowance. A short ride by the Great Western Railway brought me to STRATFORD ON-THE-AVON. "Here Nature nursed her darling boy From whom all care and sorrow fly, Whose harp the muses strung. From heart to heart let joy abound, Now, now we tread enchanted ground, — Here Shakespeare lived and sung!" This little town of 8,200 in a tranquil rural region owes its prosperity much to the memory of the Bard of Avon. Its streets are wide and well kept; it is quite ancient, being mentioned in a Saxon charter of the eighth century. Passing some almshouses to the left, I came to a handsome fountain erected in 1887 by the munificence of Mr. Childs of Philadelphia, inscribed: 400 GOLDEN MEMORIES OP OLD WORLD LANDS "Honest water which never left man the worse." Timon of Athens. The cottage in which the poet was born in 1564 shows its black wooden beams, and on entering, one sees its antiquity and great simplicity. The first room is the kitchen with floor of stones cracked and broken, and great fire-place, with room to sit in the chimney corners. Over it is the room in which the great dramatist first looked upon this world; the walls and window panes covered with names of Visitors. Dickens, Tennyson and Walter Scott have been here, each leaving his imprint. In the museum below, I looked on the old desk, said to be Shake- speare's, from the school where he was educated, of the plainest description, cut up and marked as school boys' or masters' desks are wont to be; several portraits of Shakespeare, and an interesting letter from a contemporary of Shakespeare's father, showing something of the estimate in which the parent was held. Here are copies of the first edition of 1623, the second of 1632, third of 1664 and fourth of 1685 of Shakespeare's Plays; his signet ring, sword, jug, his chair of 1598. THE NEW PLACE. The house in which he ended his days has been pulled down, but its stone foundations are visible. The site and adjoining house together with the Birth- place have been purchased, (the latter for $15,000) by public subscription and are held by trustees. In the garden I was permitted to sample the mulberries from Shakespeare's tree. In the Town Hall opposite, IN LORDLY HALLS AND NATURE'S SHRINES 401 on the pedestal of his statue are his own lines in Hamlet: "Take him for all in all, we shall not look upon his like again." In an ancient cottage in the rear of the Grammar school, a decrepit occupant assured me here was where Shakespeare went to school. In Holy Trinity church I saw the flagstone over his remains, and the monumental bust of the great poet. The face-expres- sion is disappointing. He was born April 23, 1564, died April 23, 1616. By him are his wife Anne, and his daughter Susanna Hall. The church has a lovely situation on the bank of the Avon; its fine tall tower dates from the thirteenth century. Across the fields and through the hawthorn openings I wended my way, as perhaps Will Shakespeare had often done in his courting days over the same path, to ANNE HATHAWAY 'S COTTAGE, Shottery. "Here Want and age sit smiling at the Gate," The thatched cottage is embowered in foliage* Two old ladies are its occupants. One descended from the Hathaways had lived seventy years in that quaint cottage and showed me the family record in a very old Bible. The other took me to Anne's chamber where was the settle on which sat Anne and Will in the olden time, and the carved bedstead and "everlasting" linen of Anne's. Here the young couple lived after marriage till he could make a home for her, and here two of her children were born. Thus the poet wrote of her: 402 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LAND "Would ye be taught, ye feathered throng, With love's sweet notes to grace your song, To pierce the heart with thrilling lay, Listen to mine Anne Hathaway; She hath a way to sing so clear, Phoebus might wondring - stop to hear." Fifteen or sixteen thousand persons a year visit Shakespeare's native town. Henry Ward Beecher attended a service in the church where the Poet is laid to rest, and recorded: "I had never such a trance of worship, and I shall never have such another view until I gain the Gate." Many will respond to the sentiment of Irving: "Ten thousand honors and blessings on the Bard who has gilded the dull realities of life with innocent illusions." If Warwick Castle is the ideal one, for dignity and antique grandeur, KENILWORTH hard by is the ideal of a castle-ruin. Founded in 1 1 20, it was presented by Queen Elizabeth to her favorite, the Earl of Leicester, who entertained his patroness with an extravagance of courtly luxury and pomp. It stands upon an eminence, and as you front the buildings, on your right is the Norman Keep or Caesar's tower of immense strength. Beyond it is Mervyn's tower, in which on the second floor is the small chamber Walter Scott assigned to Amy Rob- sart. Next Mervyn's tower is the Banqueting Hall, with two fine oriels; then the White Hall, presence chamber, and privy chamber, and the large Leicester pile with Tudor windows. Over it all is the glamour thrown by the "Magician of the North" with his wand IN LORDLY HALLS AND NATURE'S SHRINES 403 in his novel "Kenilworth" which one will want to read in connection; though an anachronism forbids it being implicitly received as history. A party of young people were enjoying games upon the green before the ruins, joining the merry life of to-day to the hoar remains of ancient grandeur. An artist pointed out the herring bone brickwork in a part of the walls. The town of Kenilworth is but a straggling street. Through Rugby I returned to London. The mind tires with constant sight-seeing and needs intervals of rest and change. This was attained by having London as headquarters, and making excur- sions out over the kingdom. CHESTER. [From my notebook ] —Westminster Temperance Hotel, Chester, September 20th. It was a delightful ride from London to-day. All the eight or ten occu- pants of my car-section were pleasant, each with a book or magazine in hand. One had a life of Jesus; another was reading "Studies in Character," Another wore a shield for a bosom-pin, on which was "Living for Jesus." They were more refined and ladylike than the average car-traveler in the United States, yet this was a third-class car. The day was charming as May; vegetation as brilliantly green as in the first robing of summer. The scenery was rural and quietly charming. There were meandering streams, sheep peacefully browsing, alternations of upland, meadow and grove, well 404 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS trimmed hawthorn hedges, noblemen's parks, here an ancient ruined castle, on an eminence, yonder a modern country seat, there thrifty cities with spires that pierced the skies. We passed Rugby of Dr. Arnold memory, Litchfield with its beautiful three spired Cathedral, of which we got a clear view; Stafford and Crewe; and reached Chester, near the Welsh boundary at 1:50 p. M. Since then I have perambulated most of the old red sandstone city-walls originally built by the Romans, requiring a walk of two miles. This is the only English city with a complete wall. It has an east gate, north gate, west gate, Phoenix tower and Water tower. To the S. W. is the immense Castle by the river Dee. Its Caesar tower is a remnant of an ancient structure. Pretty views were afforded in this walk on the walls, of Welsh mountains, the river and sea. Ships once came nearly up to Water tower. At Phoenix tower Charles I. saw his army defeated. "The Rows" are a kind of arcade or gallery in the second story fronts, through which footpath everybody passes; beneath them are stores, and above them are the chambers of dwellings. They are a curious idea in architecture. On Watergate street is an interesting, quaint old house, called God's Providence House, from being spared the plague in the seventeenth century. I brought up at the Cathedral just in time for the service. Tradition says a Roman Temple of Apollo stood upon this spot. Chester Cathedral is very large and imposing, and was begun in the twelfth century. Its length is 355 IN LORDLY HALLS AND NATURE'S SHRINES 405 feet, width across the transepts 200 feet. It has several columns of Sienna marble. The wood carving of the choir stalls is unsurpassed for beauty in Eng- land. The singing of the boys were very smooth and charming. One little tot performed with close atten- tion his part, and was an ideal singing cherub, such as you would paint wings to in a picture. The fol- lowing Sabbath I witnessed here the ordination of seven priests by the dean or bishop of Chester; list- ening to an earnest sermon at the Wesleyan church at night. Pretty Grosvenor Park and the picturesque ruins of the stately Norman Cathedral of St. Johns are interesting to see. Chester is quaint and mediaeval enough to stir and delight a lover of romance. It is the gateway alike to the charming North-Wales scenery and to the prosaic and prosperous city of docks and traffic, Liverpool. Deferring Liverpool till my first embarkation to America, I now proceeded to WALES land of beauty, land of song. We skirt the "sands of Dee," — and yon — "The rolling foam, The cruel, crawling foam. The cruel hungry foam, Where Mary lies beside the sea; Where still the boatmen hear her call the cattle home Across the sands o' Dee." My visit to the Gladstone Castle grounds is noted in Chapter XXV. Taking the Holyhead line, after 406 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD tVORLD L/1NDS leaving the desolate estuary of the Dee we skirt the sea on the right, and look off to the Welsh mountains on the left. We catch a glimpse of the Cathedral- tower of St. Asaph, (where sang that early English thrush, Felicia Hemans,) and the lofty spire of Bodel- wyddan church. We pass Abergele to the left, where long she dwelt. Here and there a castle peeps out of hills and foliage, Great Orme's Head and its brother Little Orme look on us from majestic rocky heights. At Llandudno Junction we turn south along the pretty Conway valley, stopping at a sylvan retreat, BETTWS-Y-COED. This being interpreted is the Chapel-in-the-woods. It is a gem of the first water, the artist's delight, sometimes termed the Paradise of Wales. The village lies picturesquely at the confluence ofthe Con- way and Llugwy rivers, with imposing Moel Siabod for a mountain background Behind Siabod is Mount Snowden (3571 feet high), the loftiest peak in Eng- land or Wales, only eight miles away. Around Bettws-y-coed are the Conway Falls, the Fairy Glen, the Swallow Falls, to which convenient "brakes" convey. Riding to Swallow Falls, a few miles out, behold the Llugwy river swollen from a recent rain, dashing impetuously down enormous rocks, breaking with loud murmur into three white foaming cascades, and hurrying like a wild white sprite away through the deep precipitous ravine, a thing of beauty and almost a thing of life! This cataract is most fasci- nating when the river is full. Moel Siabod rises to IN LORDLY HALLS AND NATURE'S SHRINES 407 the height of 2865 feet, and broke through mist clouds accommodatingly to show us its noble head. Charmed with Wales, from which part of my ancestors sprang, I traversed the route from Chester to Holyhead again this summer; passing the most picturesque ruin in Wales, Conway Castle, — brisk Bangor with its Minster and University college, — Menai straits which separate the mainland and the large island of Anglesey, and which are spanned by two magnificent bridges, — and after twenty-two miles by rail in Anglesey which is three hundred square miles in extent, and contains over fifty thousand people, — reached Holyhead on Holy Island beyond Anglesey, the point of departure across the Irish Sea. THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT. For communion with the high priestess, Nature, who reveals the beautiful thoughts of God in green temples of over arching woods, — on lakes that reflect back heaven's bright sunshine, — by fell and tarn and flowery beck, — and cloud-capt mountain height, — a very wonderland, — one should spend a few weeks in the English Lake district. Sterile as that hill-country must be, it is the land fit for poetry and sentiment, already consecrated as the home of the foremost modern writers and poets. Nature rarely allots all her wealth to one; to this section she has given a wild and lofty beauty, such that "Age cannot wither it Nor custom stale its infinite variety," — 408 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS and the charm of association with men and women of genius. The Lake district includes the counties of Cumberland, Westmoreland and a small part of Lan- cashire, or from Morecambe Bay on the South to Penrith on the N. E. In this space are sixteen lakes, of which the larger on the south are Windermere, (winding lake) and Coniston, on whose east bank once abode Tennyson and Ruskin; and on the north, Ulleswater and Derwentwater. Its highest mountains, Scafell Pike, Scafell, Hel- vellyn and Skiddaw yield pre-eminence in height to Mount Snowden, the Welsh monarch; as that in turn is 835 feet lower than Ben Nevis in Scotland; but they are surprisingly wild, picturesque and im- pressive. On a bright September day, when the air was pure and the mountain outlines distinct, I reached Win- dermere (87 1-2 miles from Liverpool); and at once took seat in a great open coach for the twenty-one mile drive north to Keswick. Our route lay near the east shore of the mere, passing on the right the grounds of Elleray, at whose cottage lived another magician of the pen, Christopher North (Prof. Wilson) ; farther on, Dove Cottage where abode Mrs. Hemans, at our left the graceful outlines of Lake Windermere bordered with rich foliage, with an amphitheater of mountains to the north and west. We come in sight of Ambleside a town of 2,000 in- habitants charmingly nestled in the valley of the Rothay; this region is all classic ground; the ivy knoll is beyond, where once lived Miss Harriet Mar- IN LORDLY HALLS AND NATURES SHRINES 409 tineau; and by yonder Louchrigg fell dwelt Dr. Arnold who said there were three roads from Rydal to Grasmere, "the highest Old Corruption; the middle one bit-by-bit Reform; and the lowest and most level Radical Reform!" We enter a wooded tract; at our left, pretty Rydal Water; at our right, Rydal Mount, where through the leafage we catch a glimpse of Wordsworth's home, where he spent the last half of his life The interior is not shown to strangers but we see his "Study" all about us, for he tramped this mountain region through, and drew inspiration from Nature's heart. He was her chief interpreter, lend- ing ' The gleam, The light that never was on sea or land The consecration and the poet's dream/' Our course is by Nab Cottage where Hartley Cole- ridge lived. Lake Grasmere becomes visible, a mile long, and a half mile in width, enclosing a green islet in its bosom. The village, Grasmere is on its northern bank. Eight years resided Wordsworth here; look- ing east behind the church we saw where now he sleeps; and say with Matthew Arnold ' 'Keep fresh the grass upon his grave, O Rotha with thy living wave; Sing him thy best, for few or none Hear thy voice right, now he is gone." We have gone nine miles from Windermere. As we climb the Dunmail Raise Pass the scenery grows wilder. Helm Crag and Steel Fell are at our left, Seat Sandal at our right. Part way up we pause for one enchanting look backward at Grasmere, its lovely 4i0 GOLDEN MEMORIES OP OLD WORLD LANDS lake and isle, and the treasure it keeps. At the height of the Pass we leave Westmoreland, entering Cumberland near the cairn of stones heaped above the grave of Dunmail, last king of Cambria. The driver pointed out some picturesque crags to the west that resembled a woman playing the piano, and striking a tragic attitude, — also another rock presentment of a lamb and lion, the Negro's prorile; and a haunted house. We now see Thirlmere, along shining strip of water; bold Helvellyn and Skiddaw rear their imposing heads, seeming to watch and wait alway. At Wythburn, a little church and Inn, we dismount and gather churchyard flowers for souvenirs. Lake Thirlmere now supplies water to Manchester and the charming mere is transformed into a reser- voir. Efforts have been made that the railroads shall not enter and destroy the romantic beauty of these English Alps, groves, tarns and vales. At the summit of Castle Rigg we gain an entranc- ing view of Keswick and its vale, lakes Bassenthwaite and Derwentwater, which last with its group of islands and lovely shores of wooded crag and emer- ald slopes is perhaps the most beautiful of all the English lakes. Skiddaw and Blencathara like huge lions guard the scene. Down a long descent our charioteer drives rapidly, and here we are in the streets of charming Keswick. Most fortunate have we been to have a clear dry atmosphere for this ex- cursion. On the morrow the skies wept profusely. Yet I made an umbrella pilgrimage to the bridge across IN LORDLY HALLS AND NATURE'S SHRINES 411 the Greta River where one may see Greta Hall, the home of the once poet Laureate, Southey, and beside it the residence of Hartley Coleridge, the son of S. T. C. The Hall is on a hillside among embosoming trees. Further on in the Croswaithe parish church which is of interesting antiquity, built in the eleventh century, the sexton unveiled the recumbent statue of Southey, sculptured in marble. There is a chiselled baptismal fount 600 years old, with the Royal arms of Edward III; also the tomb of Ratcliffe, Earl of Derwentwater who died 1527. In the churchyard is Southey's grave, and those of Hartley Coleridge, of Southey's sister, and a servant who lived fifty years in his family, and whose inscription is at the foot of his tomb. S. T. Coleridge with his family resided near Words- worth and Southey. Mrs. Coleridge was a sister of Southey's wife. Shelley resided in Keswick awhile. The church of St. John lends attractions to the view of Keswick. There are beautiful photographs and oil paintings of the lake-region in Keswick's Art- gallery. In the lead Pencil Factory I learned the twenty-four processes by which a lead pencil is made. The lead or plumbago must be extracted from the bowels of the earth; crushed, mixed with water, ground fine, baked, crushed again, heated, shaped for pencils, dried, cut the right length, put into red cedar; the wood in turn must be cut from the forest, sawed, grooves made, fitted together, glued, dried, polished, made equal length, painted, lettered, sharpened. Then it is ready to write the thought 412 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS mightier than armies, which works revolution in character and in government. At Keswick annual and profitable Holiness conven- tions are held. Sweet and comforting it was, on awaking in a land of strangers to look on the Script- ure mottoes on the walls of that pure white chamber, — "The Lord is my Shepherd, I shall not want." "The Lord is thy keeper." — Through Penrith and Carlisle the border city I came to the land of Wallace and Bruce. CHAPTER XXXI. SCOTIA AND THE CANNIE SCOTCH. "O Caledonia! stern and wild Meet nurse for a poetic child! Land of brown heath and shaggy wood, Land of the mountain and the flood." Sir Walter Scott. The heart of the great patriot leader, Bruce, is interred in Melrose Abbey. Thitherward I directed my course, passing Netherby Hall the scene of "Young Lochinvar," the Cheviot Hills, the triple peaks of the Eildons, and the near vicinity of Dry- burg Abbey where Walter Scott lies buried, and of Abbotsford, long the Enchanter's home. MELROSE ABBEY (37 miles from Edinburgh) is the most picturesque ruin in Scotland. It was founded by the "Scottish Alfred," David L, in the twelfth century; nearly de- stroyed by the English king Edward II; and rebuilt by Robert Bruce, early in the fourteenth century. Alexander II. who was a partisan against wicked King John of England, and the heart of Bruce are interred under the East window. For this reason, were there no other, Melrose must forever remain to the Scotch a sacred shrine. Of the once grand and elegant structure which was of late Gothic, 258 feet 413 414 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS long and 137 feet wide through the transepts, adorned with beautiful sculptures, — most of the Nave is gone; but the choir, two Norman arches, noble windows of exquisite traceries and richly carved capitals remain. A lowly seat whereon I rested was the favorite of Scott. The Ruin with its majestic outlines must be beautiful indeed by moonlight. Nearly a week I spent in "Edinboro town," finding Darling's Regent Hotel ideally excellent. Its worthy and much respected proprietor died soon after; but his daughter with her practical head, beautiful voice in song, and large christian heart seemed fully equal to the superintendency. The head-waiter had the gracious dignity of a Chesterfield, the numerous patrons were the best class, whom it was pleasant to meet in the homelike, spacious drawing-room around the genial fire. Each evening at ten, family prayers were conducted, the family, the guests, the maids in black dresses, white caps and white aprons, and usually one or more clergymen were present. One felt it was good to be there, and join in that sweet ministry of song, and devout worship. Blessings abide on the heads of that establishment, and may they long conduct just such a home. EDINBURGH is the most picturesque and beautiful city in Eu- rope. It is also one of the most interesting. Salz- burg in Germany bears a striking resemblance to it, but has been less perfected by art, London is vaster, — Paris more brilliant and cosmopolitan, — SCOTIA A WD THE CANNIE SCOTCH 415 Berlin more commercial and modern, — Vienna more palatial and foreign in its aspect, —while the seven hilled city of the yellow Tiber allures with a yet older antiquity. But in the combined charm of bold and impressive scenery, and a venerable history, replete with every element of romance and heroism, Edin- burgh has no superior. Two local genii still haunt and pervade it, — a Queen, and a Reformer, — fascinating Mary Stuart and valiant John Knox; while in more modern times it has been the center of such a resplendent galaxy of genius as the historian Hume, Playfair, the chronicler Robertson, Robert Burns, Walter Scott, Dr Chal- mers, and "Christopher North." Its present popula- tion is with its immediate suburbs 300,000; it has a celebrated University and a few manufactures. ITS SITE. Edinburgh is built upon two bold parallel ridges separated by deep ravines running east and west. It is two miles south of the Firth of Forth which may be seen from its heights. A lofty hill, Arthur's seat, uprears its form beside it on the south, as if the guardian of its weal. On the east rises Calton Hill adorned with numerous monuments and observatories ; from its summit affording a magnificent view such as will long enrich the memory of the beholder. Coming from Melrose Abbey, the train bore me through the deep ravine between the ridges to Waverly station in the heart of the city, whence climbing a long series of stairs, I found myself on 416 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS PRINCES STREET one of the handsomest of fine streets. Northward it is flanked by elegant stores and hotels, and the many massive buildings of the well-built modern section, which lies upon the northern Ridge. South- ward is the colossal monument of Scotia's favorite son, Sir Walter Scott. Charming public gardens and verdant lawns adorn the valley. Beyond rises steeply the southern loftier castle-ridge, where stands the old historic royal city of Edinburgh, with its High street, (connected by a noble viaduct with the newer city,) its St. Giles Cathedral and Assembly Hall, its tall many-storied buildings, and narrow mysterious closes or Wynds, — its Esplanade, with the bonnie marching Highlanders at drill, in quaint costume, and more conspicuous than all, where the ridge rises into a bold precipitous crag, Nature's fortress, inac- cessible on three sides, — ITS MASSIVE CASTLE overlooking the startling depths below; a castle long the abode of kings; King Edwin founded his burgh here in 617 A. D. ; from whose stormbeaten and em- battled walls, thirteen centuries look down upon us to-day! It is a sight to hold the eye enchanted, — to thrill the artistic soul! Imagination decks the scene with old-time pageantry, peoples it with nobles and prelates, papists and covenanters, with soldiers in Scotch plaids marching in platoons; and ever in the foreground loom up the two who wrought most potently on the nation's destinies, Mary Stuart of the SCOTIA AND THE CANNIE SCOTCH 417 beautiful face, of the indomitable spirit, of the intrigue- ing heart, — and brave and scholarly John Knox, the Elijah, the Daniel of his time. I entered the Castle. Here was the drawing-room of Mary Queen of Scotts. In the little bedroom adjoining she gave birth to James who was to be Queen Elizabeth's successor, and unite the kingdoms of England and Scotland. Through its narrow win- dow I looked down the headlong plunge of rock, falling in sheer descent, three hundred feet to the Grass market below. Mary must often have taken that same view. Out of that window, over that abyss was swung down in a basket, for safer keeping at Sterling castle, that infant destined for the imperial position over two kingdoms. Did not that young heart quiver, that bright face blanch in the act? Wild times indeed were those for a wife and mother but twenty-four years old! but she had an unquailing spirit, with doubtless the hopefulness of youth and health, and never shrank from undertaking responsibilities. Doubtless she had serenity inspired by the full con- sciousness of her extraordinary endowments of birth, breeding, beauty and brain. She was not only Queen of Scotland but the great niece of Henry the VIII. as she very well understood, and if the legitimacy of his marriage to Anne Boleyn the mother of Elizabeth was unacknowledged or denied, she was the rightful heir to the British throne. She was every inch a Queen, a queen of graces, and of hearts, till the end of her chequered and eventful career, when com- 418 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVOkLD LANDS posedly she commended herself to God, and laid her fair neck on the executioner's block. As we thread High street and Canongate, how the bygone centuries unroll! This Cathedral, St. Giles, with its curious lantern-tower dates back to A. D. 1120. It contains the Royal Pew of Mary, where her young husband Darnley sat when John Knox preached, and like many a parishioner since, inwardly fumed and raged, because the truth was sharp, and the sermon was long! and no wonder for the very text seemed personal. The preacher was forbidden by Mary to preach for fifteen days thereafter. The figure of a heart on a paving stone in the street hard by, marks the site of the ancient Tolbooth or city prison, known as the Heart of Mid-Lothian. Here a small block inscribed J. K. 1572, near the Cathedral where John Knox was once pastor shows the place of his burial. Down Canongate to the left, stands JOHN KNOX' HOUSE. where he lived from 1559 A. D. to 1572. Its exterior bears the quaint inscription: • "Lufe God abufe al, and your nichtbour as yi self." The house dates from 1490 and is in good preser- vation. His little study perched high up above the sidewalk was built for him in 1561. In it is his chair. Could those walls speak, what witness might they bear of the studies, toils, devotions and vigils of that faithful man of God, who was wont to wrap his plaid about him, and pray far into the night, and when his wife besought him to seek repose, replied, SCOTIA AND THE C ANN W SCOTCH 410 —"Woman, the burden of all Scotland lies upon me, and how can I sleep?" Into a large apartment he was brought from his bedroom, and sitting in his chair, died. The battle for the Truth had been fought. The Scotch Reformation was accomplished. The Papist Queen was dethroned. Protestants ad- ministered the government. He was ready to depart. Proceeding down Canongate, eloquent memorials of bygone ages salute us on either hand, — dwellings of former nobles, Moray House, the Tolbooth and Cross, Canongate churchyard with the poet Allan Ramsay's tomb, (1754) the peasant-born but illus- trious astronomer, James Ferguson's grave. At the foot of Canongate we enter HOLYROOD PALACE. This spacious building occupies the site of an Abbey founded 1128 A.D. by the noble King David I. A relic of the abbey is the now ruined Royal Chapel where Queen Mary celebrated mass, much to the indignation of the Protestants. From Darnley's suite of apartments we pass to Mary's on the floor above. In the audience chamber the Queen disputed with Knox; in the next is her bed with its silken hangings and coverlet. In another, she was at tea when the conspirators came up the private stairway, and her favorite Rizzio was assas- sinated. "Thereby hangs a tale" would apply to much of this ancient city. The antiquary may long revel here, browsing "in fresh fields and pastures new," while the 420 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS christian may read God in History, and find how, amid great commotions, human rights and truth and righteousness have been advanced. We may not linger to describe the many objects of interest. Carnegie's gift — a public library — had just been opened. There is a limited collection of choice paintings in the art gallery. There were Scotch preachers to be heard, and an excursion made to the Firth of Forth and its marvelous bridge which is not a suspension bridge, but consists of three Cantilevers, extending with its approaches a mile and a half, over water 200 feet deep. There were rambles to Calton Hill, and Grey Friar's church, and Grass market, and a long ride on the Morning-side tram to the memorial churches of Chalmers and Robertson, and Guthrie'sdwelling house. At the military service in St. Giles, Sunday morning, the Castle troops arrayed in red jackets, Scotch plaid dresses, and plaid scarfs upon the left shoulders, sat fronting the ecclesiastic. The militia band played an exquisite harmony while the crimson bags were being passed for the collection. On a week night, at Carubber's Close Mission I found an admirably conducted and thronged gospel temperance meeting. The Tron church, St. Giles, Cowgate, and the quaint Newhaven fishwives with their short striped dresses, caps and fish baskets, all these and more came in for a share of pleased atten- tion. AMONG THE HIGHLANDS. Glasgow was my next destination; 47 miles west of Edinburgh, a ride of an hour and ten minutes. SCOTIA AND THE CANNIE SCOTCH 421 But, for a sight of the exquisite coast, mountain, and lake scenery of Scotland which has a charm all its own, it is desirable to take the beautiful excursion by Sterling, Callender, the Trossachs and the Lochs, which requires eleven cr twelve hours. A July day is best for this. I went October first when the sun glinted between clouds and sprinkles. We crossed the Firth of Forth — which is an arm of the sea — on the new Cantilever Bridge, one of the greatest engineering triumphs, — passed Dumferline, within whose abbey lies the mortal part of the heroic Bruce (except his heart), — the Abbey Crag rising 362 feet surmounted by the Wallace monument which is wondrously reflected in the shining water below, — it is near the bridge where Wallace defeated the English, — and in sight of ancient Sterling and its picturesque Castle which crowns a lofty height, com- mands a superb view, and has been the birthplace of Scotch kings. Near by is Bannockburn where Bruce with 30,000 Scuts defeated the English army of 100,000. We leave the train at Callender, bidding a sweet "Sister Dora" good-bye, whose companion- ship has brightened the morning, and take open coach for a ten mile drive. We look out on the Highlands of Scotland. Ben Ledi, Ben Alan, Ben Venue, Ben Lomond, — (all these mountains are Bens, and the lakes are lochs,) — rear their grim heads and their great, gracefully curving outlines to the north and west. By the highway lies — like a thread of silver — loch Vennacher. At the Lilliputian loch Achray, we enter the Trossachs, "bristling country," a romantiq 422 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS woody glen which extends to loch Katrine, whose lovely waters when the sun smiles on them are "a burnished sheet of living gold." A toy steamer bears us past Ellen's isle immortalized by Scott, between banks where wild cliffs and exquisitely embowering foliage alternate. At Stronachiacher Pier we disembark, and another coach ride brings us through purple heath and by the huts of Rob Roy and Helen Macgregor, down the steep hill to charming Inversnaid and its pretty water- fall. This bonny Scotch coachman had driven here twenty-seven years without accident. I seem still to hear his "Get away!" and "Sh! Sh!" with which he quickened his team to a lively pace. Loch Lomond is the largest of the Scotch lochs, and with its wooded isles is very beautiful. At Balloch Pier we entered a train that bore us past the huge rock Satan threw at St. Patrick, (so saith the legend). It is a mile round and 280 feet high, and on it is Castle Dumbarton. We pause at GLASGOW. These canny industrious Scotch have made a most thrifty city on the Clyde. It ranks first in iron and steel ship building; many thousand vessels enter it annually; its looms produce millions of yards of woolen and cotton goods. It has a population of three quarters of a million; a University, which is a group of imposing buildings, beautifully located in ample grounds, and 2,300 students. Founded about 1450. The Cathedral and the Necropolis are pro- SCOTIA AND THE C ANN 'IE SCOTCH 423 foundly interesting. The former is dedicated to the early missionary St. Mungo, (or St. Kentigern) ; was founded in the twelfth century in the reign of David I. This Cathedral and one other are the two Catholic churches which the Reformation suffered to remain in Scotland, It is now Presbyterian, the established church of Scotland- I sought out the tomb of Edward Irving in its majestic and beautiful crypt. There are quaint monuments in the old Kirk- yard of which the following, bearing date of 1616, is a sample. It is inscribed: "Ye gazers on this tomb, send out one groan for want of her once born of earth, — now in earth's womb. Lived long a virgin, then a spotless wife. Here lies enclosed man's grief, earth's loss, friend's pain, religion's lamp, virtue's light, heaven's gain.* * * * On earth beloved, and now in heaven above." The Necropolis is on a magnificent height, ap- proached by a bridge of Sighs. Here are monuments to John Knox, Dr. Dick, Charles Tennent (d. 1838), James Sheridan Knowles (d. 1862), Mrs. Jameson, Dr. William Black; and graves of multitudes, some of whom though unknown to fame may have been as pleasing to heaven. George Eliot expressed a truthful sentiment: "The growing good of the world, and that things are not as ill with you and me, as they might be, is largely because of those who lived faith- ful unrecorded lives, and rest in invisible tombs." A propos of praying for the dead, — in a Romish church, Glasgow, I found the printed request: "In your charity pray for John Henry, Cardinal Newman, 424 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS d. Aug. ii, 1890, in the 90th year of bisage!'' Seven weeks that sainted divine had been in the spiritland! Did the members of his own communion believe him in purgatory? CHAPTER XXXII. IN BURNS' HOME, AND THE BRONTES*. Sweet heather bells and Robert Burns, The moorland flower and peasant, How, at their mention, memory turns Her pages old and pleasant! Whit tier. On the west coast of Scotland, at the mouth of the classic river Doon, is the ancient seaport town, Ayr, about which lies the land of Burns. It is forty miles southwest of Glasgow. Thither to the birthplace of the Ploughman Poet we turned our pilgrim feet. Along our railway-route lie many places of historic association and interest, which keep us on the "qui vive" to note, — Crookston Castle, where the Queen of Scots was betrothed to the unworthy and unfortunate Darnley, Paisley, once celebrated for its manufacture of fine shawls, now out of the fash- ion, and still having the famous Coat's, and Clark's Thread factories, — smoke begrimed Paisley, also the birthplace of that fine author known as Christopher North, and near it (upon a farm, like Burns,) was born the gifted Pollok, — Irvine, whence sprang the sweet singer, Montgomery, — an old town noted for its witches burnt at the stake, — and now we reach Ayr, the earliest home of the people's favorite poet, 425 426 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Burns. A son of toil, who comprehended the life of the masses, and whose heart was strung in sympathy, — divinely touched with genius, — he struck vibrant chords in human hearts of every age and clime. Twenty-five thousand in a year visit his monument, more even than the number of annual pilgrims to Shakespeare's home. It is gratifying to an American that the larger number of those from foreign lands are from the United States. Ayr is an interesting town, older than the Roman occupation, and has 20,000 inhabitants. It is in the lowlands. Before it spreads the silver Firth of Clyde, and afar glimmers the Irish coast. Burns wrote of it: "Auld Ayr wham ne'er a toon surpasses For honest men and bonnie lasses." From the red sandstone station, I rambled to Alloway, two miles southward where are the Burns Cottage and Monument. It is a pleasant road with charming scenery of hills and far off peaks; the very route by which Tarn o'Shanter "Skelpit on thro' dub and mire." A row of humble one-story cottages appears, on one of which a signboard states "Burns was born under this roof, Jan. 25, 1759." The family here abode from 1757 to 1766, after which it was occupied as a public house, but is now held by trustees in the public interest. The kitchen floor consists of large irregular-shapen stones, and the great old fashioned fireplace is unchanged. The china dresser by the wall belonged to Burns' father, also the eight-day IN BURNS' HOME, AND THE BRONTES' 427 clock and the clothespress. In a recess is the hed whence the baby of wondrous gifts first looked out upon the world. Near it stands his mother's spinning wheel. How vividly these objects conjure the forms and occupations of that interesting family! The mother was wont to repeat songs and verses to her child; unconsciously developing his gifts as a lyrist, which may have been his maternal heritage. One room is remodeled and used as a museum, containing manuscripts and other interesting souve- nirs of Burns. His chirography shows character and is remarkably legible and good. A short walk brings us to Alloway Kirk dating from 1516, now roofless and vine-embowered. Its walls and bell remain, and the window through which o'Shanter saw an "unco sight," "Warlocks and witches in a dance." An aged Scotch guide was on the grounds, spouting Burns volubly for my benefit. Before the kirk is the grave and stone of Burns' father; Scotia's famous son was interred at Dumfries. From the auld haunted kirk I repaired by Bonny Doon, crossing the old and mossy "brig" immortalized by the poet; below it is the newer structure for the use of teams> Here is the romantic spot of which Burns sang, "Ye banks and braes of bonnie Doon How can ye bloom sae fresh and fair? How can ye chant, ye little birds, And I sae weary, fu' o' care?" Near the new bridge stands the Burns Monument, 428 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS a handsome Grecian edifice, sixty feet high in a beautiful garden. Here are memorials of the poet, the Bible presented to Highland Mary, which was recovered from Canada and purchased for$ioo, Jean Armour's wedding ring, the life size effigies of Tain o'Shanter and Souter Johnnie. Two miles from the Cottage is the Mount Oliphant farm where he wrote his first song, "My handsome Nell," and where his parents resided with their family eleven years. In this youthful period he had "E'en then a wish (I mind its power) A wish that to my latest hour Shall strongly heave my breast, That I, for puir auld Scotland's sake, Some useful plan or beuk could make, Or sing a sang at least." Returning to Ayr, I took a path which led me by the "sad sea waves," and a lone house at the foot of the Doon. Finding it rather eerie for the length- ening shadows, I returned to the Low road, and by pleasant mansions and a lovely shaded avenue I reached the city. At Tarbolton the poet lived on the farm of Lochlea for seven years, and in the neighborhood met Highland Mary, who was a dairymaid and the object of his most ideal attachment, which found noble expression in his ode "To Mary in Heaven." She is buried in West Parish churchyard, Greenock. Next Tarbolton is Mauchline, in whose ancient Tower Burns married Jean Armour. A mile north of Mauchline is Mossgiel the farm where he wrote "The Cottar's Saturday Night," "Holy IN BURNS' HOME, AND THE BRONTES' 420 Willie's Prayer." "The Jolly Beggars." "The Mount- ain Daisy;" where he spent some of his most mo- mentous years, and buried in the village churchyard one of his children. Next day I went to Kilmarnock, which town has the honor of having had the citizen who persuaded Burns to publish, thereby rendering the world a service. Burns was often seen there in the Mossgiel days. Thence I came down the green valley of the Nith, to Dumfries which guards the poet's dust. Here and in the near vicinity he spent the last eight years of his too short life, coming to Dumfries from Ellisland in 1791. Here he wrote "Scots whaha'e," "Auld Lang Syne," "A man's a man for a' that." The town is full of memorials of the National Poet. His mausoleum fitly embodies his own thought, the genius of Coila finding her chosen son at the plough, and throwing her inspiring mantle over him. His songs have made the region classic ground. Another historic character is also associated with this west Scottish Coast, the great reformer, John Knox, who preached hereabout in the troublous times of the sixteenth century. A later hero has gone forth from a cottar's home at Dumfries to a life time of valiant service as a missionary in the New Hebrides, Rev. John G. Paton. His recitals of experience are more thrilling than romance. Though he came from a lowly thatched cot and a life of humble toil, he shows that Scotland still has the stuff out of which by divine grace genuine noblemen are made. We approach the English border, and at Annan are 430 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LAUDS near Ecclefechan where Carlyle was born and is buried. The Mecca to which we now direct our course is HAWORTH, Yorkshire, among the dreary moorlands, the shrine of one whose strong spirit, in a frail slight body, burned a clear white flame, till Death too early blew it out. We leave the train at Keighley and a branch line conveys us to Haworth, THE HOME OF CHARLOTTE BRONTE. This village is built both sides of a rather strag- gling street, ascending a long and very steep hill; so steep indeed that the paving stones are placed end up to aid the traveler and steed. The houses are of gray stone, and high; at the upper end of the street, is the parish church and the Bronte parsonage and adjoining them is the churchyard crowded with graves and monumental slabs. Beyond them, the hill con- tinues to rise, ending in a long bleak stretch of moor- land, unrelieved by shrub or grove, purpled here and there with masses of heather or reddened with bilber- ries in their season. Here wild chilling winds hold carnival without restraint, and surly Winter long lingers in the lap of May. The views are far-reaching, somber and dreary. A deep hollow encompasses the vast moor, while beyond it other bleak and lonely hills arise, expanding into heathery plains. It is a rough type of Nature, though not without a certain charm, adapted to a tough physical fiber, and a bold and determined cast of mind; and such have been IN BURNS' HOME, AND THE BRONTES 1 431 the Yorkshire characteristics, energy, dogged will and assertive self-reliance, which enabled them to battle with the elements. The population is largely factory workers, there being several worsted factories at Haworth. There are undoubtedly among such lowly toilers some of the best hearts in the world, but of culture, or opportunities for it, there was little here in the Brontes' time — 1820 to 1855. In such a rugged environment grew up, like rare exotics, the sensitive, high strung, intense and rarely gifted sisters, Charlotte, Emily and Anne Bronte, in whose veins was mingled Irish and English blood, a conjunction of different nationalities which favors genius. Their gentle little mother and two sisters had early died, their father in his own family was a recluse taking his meals by himself, and so the sisters were solitary and companionless save in their close intimacy with each other, and the presence of their domestic helpers who dwelt with them long, and were felt to be real friends. They turned instinctively to authorship; they lived lives of brooding romantic thought, touched with melancholy. For Sorrow fixed her abode in that quiet home. Branwell their only and brilliant brother had passions which he did not control and became a constant anxiety and final wreck. The episode which brought to Charlotte acquaint- ance with the world, and new and deep experience, was her stay at the Belgian Capital, Brussels, whither she and Emily went for further study. Villette, one of the most powerful of fictions in its portraiture 432 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS of life and the heart, portrays in Lucy Snow her own nature, and some parts of it are transcripts of her own experience. From the glitter of the gay Capital, the girls returned to the lonely monotony of their quiet moorland home, and to a struggle with fate seemingly hopeless. In the failure of their plans to teach, they each betook themselves to writing a work of fiction. Emily wrote " Wuthering Heights, " — Anne, "Agnes Gray," and "The Tenant of Wildfell Hall," — Charlotte "The Professor," and began "Jane Eyre." The novels of Emily and Anne were accepted, but Charlotte's sought in vain a publisher. Undismayed she completed Jane Eyre. In Oct. 1847 it was pub- lished and was discovered to be a work of genius. Charlotte Bronte became suddenly famous; her book was the sensation of the time. Then Death stepped into the Haworth Parsonage, poor Branwell died, then brave strong Emily, next gentle Anne, and Char- lotte in her celebrity and her heartsick loneliness was left to wrestle alone. "Shirley" and "Villette" were successful, and subsequently there was a demand for "The Professor." She took her place among the Immortals, safe on the shores of literary Fame. It seemed that she was to have a little domestic joy at last, for her father's curate won her hand, but just as the prospect of motherhood was hers, con- sumption, which had felled her sisters, claimed her as his own. She died in 1855, scarcely 39. I was received by a lady who knew Charlotte, and had been a member of a class she supervised. I called upon another lady whose sister, Miss Martha Brown, long IN BURNS' HOME, AND THE BRONTES' 433 lived at the Brontes', a trusted helper. They described the distinguished authoress as of slight build, frail looking, quick stepping, with auburn hair. "We did not know" — they said — "she was so remarkable." Her father, the church vicar, was mentioned with high esteem. I was shown memorials of the sisters, the bedstead occupied by Charlotte, the trunk she took to Brussels; the stool Emily used to take into the garden with her writing desk, Anne's treasure box, etc., and was given a very precious lock of Charlotte Bronte's hair! Mr. Brown, a son of Mr. Bronte's sexton has a museum with Bronte relics, a shawl worn by the mother, drawings, paintings and needle work by Charlotte, a letter which is a model of admo- nition in her own clear and beautiful penmanship, and a speaking likeness, which reveals Miss Bronte's large and soulful eyes. A winsome Yorkshire lassie guided me over the wide, emerald moor in the favor- ite walk of the sisters, a fit place for poetic thought when summer with warm sunshine floods the scene. In the parish church I saw a tablet to Charlotte and Emily who are buried under it; an American has presented a Memorial window. In the Vicarage I had the rare privilege of being shown Mr. Bronte's study; opposite was the living room of the sisters, and Charlotte's chamber just above it. I trod the pleasant front yard hallowed by the footsteps of the Departed. Mr. Nichols, to whom Charlotte was married, remained here till after Mr. Bronte's decease, then returned to Ireland where he subsequently re- married, and is engaged in business. 434 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS The following are the last lines written by Anne Bronte, and with them we take leave of those burn- ing souls, the parson's daughters, and the Yorkshire heath: "I hoped that with the brave and strong My portioned lot might lie, To toil amid the busy throng With purpose pure and high. But God has fixed another part And He has fixed it well; I said so with my bleeding heart When first the anguish fell. Thou God hast taken our delight Our treasured hope away, Thou bidst us now weep through the night And sorrow through the day. The weary hours will not be lost, These days of misery, Those nights of darkness anguish-tossed, Can I but turn to Thee! With secret labor to sustain In humble patience every blow, To gather fortitude from pain, And hope and holiness from woe. Then let me serve Thee from my heart Whate'er may be my written fate, Whether thus early to depart Or yet awhile to wait, If Thou shouldst bring me back to life, More humbled I should be; More wise, more strengthened for the strife, More apt to lean on Thee. Should death be standing at the gate, Thus should I keep my vow. But, Lord, whatever be my fate Oh help me serve Thee now." IN BURNS HOME, AND THE BRONTES' 435 A flight through the bristling chimneys and roaring industries of the great manufacturing city of Man- chester, and a couple of days among the sights and vast docks of the maritime city of Liverpool closes our first golden pilgrimage in Europe, and the first install- ment of our nearly a hundred days in Britain. Westward ho! On an October afternoon of quiet beauty, we board the good ship, City of Berlin, Inman line, for return to America. It carries nearly a thousand passengers and crew upon this trip. I find a very pleasant company of first-cabin passengers, liberalized by the education of extensive travel. After leaving Fastnet we have a rough and tempes- tuous passage. Headwinds blow fiercely, and wildly rolls and pitches our barque. Shoals of porpoises race beside us, and a near whale adds excitement. One night when all had retired to their berths, there was a sudden shock, as if we had struck some obstacle. There was a crash of movables falling; and an aged lady moaned loudly, "O we shall all go to the bottom of the sea, and I shall never see my poor father after all my prayers!" We sprang up, and rejoiced to find that the ship had but fallen into the deep trough of the sea. Sometimes the billows were huge and the spray flew over the upper deck. At length the fury of the waves subsided and the greater danger of an impenetrable fog hung over us, as we neared the Newfoundland Banks. Continually the hoarse fog horn screamed, and the increasing chilliness suggested icebergs; they had been seen here two weeks previous; but we were spared a 486 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS second encounter with these dreaded monsters of the Deep. The last night aboard, the weather permitted an impromptu concert which revealed considerable talent for recitation and music. After a prosperous voyage by the mercy of God, made specially enjoyable by courteous and agreeable companions, we landed at New York; and after twelve hundred miles further by rail to the Father of waters, were welcomed in Iowa at "our own fireside." 'Oh! I have seen great ones, and sat in great halls, 'Mong lords and 'mong ladies all covered wi' braws; But a sight so delightful I trow I ne'er spied As the bonny blithe blink of my ain fireside. My ain fireside, my ain fireside, As the bonny blithe blink of my ain fireside, Ance mair, heaven be praised, round my ain heartsome ingle With the friends of my youth I cordially mingle, Nae force now upon me to seem wae or glad, I may laugh when I'm merry, and sigh when I'm sad. Nae falsehood to dread' nae malice to fear, But truth to delight me, and kindness to cheer. O' a' roads to pleasure that ever were tried There's nane half so sure as ane's ain fireside!" CHAPTER XXXIII. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. "My bark is wafted from the strand By breath divine, And on the helm there rests a hand Other than mine." Once more I am a Pilgrim; traversing a great, alien sea, the Mediterranean; bound like the old- time crusaders for far off Jerusalem! "Was it to make room for wandering," sang Goethe, "that the world was made so wide?" Of all pathways to foreign lands, there is none more fascinating than this. From the Occident to the Levant, — from the Mis- sissippi to the Jordan, the Nile and the Cephissus! from the prairies of the Golden Rod, to the rose of Sharon! from Chicago the Hub of the New World — to Jerusalem, the Hub of Solomonic days, and Heli- opolis and the Pyramids! from the land of Washing- ton and Lincoln, to the lands of Moses, Socrates, and the Christ ! There are representative names that summon be- fore us nations and systems, — Rome stands for the Papal hierarchy, Mecca the Mahommedan empire, — Jerusalem for the crucified one who came to be man's Savior, and whose gospel is revolutionizing men, 437 438 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS kingdoms, and gradually the world. We speak of Moses, and there unrolls the panorama of the Nile and Memphis and Thebes, the Rameses, Pharaohs and Abraham, and prehistoric days! We utter the charmed word Socrates, and straightway flash before us templed Athens, and muse haunted Greece, Pericles and Aspasia, Phidias and Plato, Miltiades and the Lacedaemonians, blind Homer and sweetly smiling Sappho. We speak of the land of the Christ, and there pass before us the Babe of Bethlehem, and the spotless youth of Nazareth, the whole career and mission of Him who linked himself to every human heart as the Son of Man, yet showed us how we all might become Sons of God the Highest! I am soon to behold these lands of antiquity, of strange dusky peoples, of hallowed Biblical associa- tions! It seems too good to be true. How grateful should one be for the divine goodness which confers on her this extraordinary privilege, and what efforts should she make to share the pleasure and the profit with her fellowmen! Sixteen months ago I returned from a golden Pil- grimage in Europe. I have striven to report what it taught me. It remains in memory a charmed expe- rience, a cherished and inalienable possession. As one who opens a drawer where sweet roses have lain, in breathing their subtle aroma sees again the sum- mer glory, the faces now far away, and hears the voices that have grown still, — so unnumbered sou- venirs, and recollections, even the chance mention of places and people met in that memorable tour, renew A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN 4oO the impressions of those months of privilege. I live them over again feeling that my life was immeasura- bly enriched, and my horizon enlarged. The months that succeeded of rumination and assimilation have been helpful. After browsing one must chew the cud of mental food. They who travel and never medi- tate, dissipate. There must be intervals of retire- ment. Even the Great Teacher went apart into the desert alone. Now the time has come when I would look again on some of those old world cities, such as Antwerp, Brussels, Paris, Marseilles, Rome and other towns of my beloved Italy, to deepen and enlarge first impres- sions; and also extend the vision to Palestine, Egypt, and Greece. All aboard then for Sunrise lands! I left my Iowa home near the Father of Waters, on a beautiful Tuesday, March ist, which reminded me of my sainted mother's birth March ist, 1789, and thus associated her whom I most venerate with this tour, — and which date prophesied the near vernal glory of the tropical spring, to which I go. After the fare- well to my family and the many young friends who gathered at the station for the final good-bye, while speeding through the darkness after the trampling lo- comotive, the most pleasurable anticipations filled my mind. How dreamlike it all was! The issue was unknown. How many "ships have sailed for sunny skies, but never came to shore!" I might be going to a grave in a far-away strange land. Indeed this seemed almost probable, when I remembered not only a former tour to Europe, but my invariable safe 440 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS returns from many thousands of miles of temperance- travel in the Western States; to the Yosemite Valley, and the Pacific coast. One cannot expect exemption always. But I committed myself to the Infinite Father for any event. "We are immortal till our work is done." "The christian cannot die before his time; The Lord's appointed is the servant's hour." We need have but one anxiety, that God's will may be ours, and that we may radiate the Christ-* spirit day by day. I pass rapidly the particulars of the first twelve hundred miles of travel, save that I spent some da}^s in beautiful Washington city, going to the President's Mansion and to Congress, where it was my good fortune to hear some remarkably compact, pointed and ringing speeches. Our Palestine Party sailed from New York by the Noordland, Red Star S, S. line, Capt. Nichols com- mander. She is reported officially the cleanest ship that enters N. Y. ; is 420 feet long by 44 feet broad, and 36 feet deep, makes 13 miles an hour; has 120 hands and a capacity for 600 persons. She however brought 1400 emigrants in her last trip to the States. She consumes 76 tons coal daily. Her cuisine is excellent. We found her a pleasant, well managed boat. There were four clergymen from the United States in our company and we held religious services on the two Sabbaths we were aboard the Noordland. THE VOYAGE — March, apropriately named after Mars the god A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN 441 of War, maintained his warlike repute by high winds, gusty squalls, and heavy seas. We had "A wet sheet and a flowing sea And a wind that follows fast." One realized the situation vividly after crossing the ship's bridge and going to the extreme stern; there we saw our slight craft descending green watery hollows and mounting high billowy crests; anon she bent her side down, down to the trough of the sea, till the waves leaped on her upper deck; then lurched to the other side. Thus were we rocked on the cradle of the Deep. Had our course been westward we should have encountered much heavier seas. The ninth day out, Friday, was the most tempestuous. The ship had rolled tremendously the previous night. At morn a gale blew from the S. E., waves flew on the upper deck and the air was filled with spray. Only a few of the strongest and boldest made the round of the ship, and most of them experienced an unlucky slip and ducking which brought down the house with merriment. We made but 273 miles run that day, our average being 303 to 330. But it was comforting to remember "Whichever way the wind doth blow Some heart is glad to have it so," All were cheered as we approached the eastern side of this mighty and mysterious main. One alluding to the swaying motion said, "This is the most swell trip I ever took!" Another, when a big wave broke booming over head, said, "Yesterday we see a ship, to-day we ship a sea!" The tenth morning the storm- 442 GOLDEN MEMORIES OP OLD WORLD LANDS carnival ceased. Day broke bright and beautiful with land in sight, — Bishop Rock light-house on one of the Scilly isles; a tall round tower on a lone rock with the sea breaking at its base. On these Scilly islands the earliest potatoes are raised for the English market. The mainland is seven miles away. Several fishing smacks were in sight. It was sweet to see tokens of other human life than that the Noordland carried. We had met but a few west bound sailing vessels. At Lizard Point the ship signaled the tele- graph station, and the wires flashed the news to New York that the Noordland had passed and all was well. Land's End is a long narrow neck of land with cliffs in sight, 200 feet in height. The coast scenery is very bold, wild, and fascinating. Near here are Cornwall's important tin and copper mines. We pass the Eddystone light-house, and sight Hast- ings where William the Conqueror fought the decisive battle of Hastings. Sunday forenoon we have taken a channel-pilot aboard and are between Calais, and Dover, and view the white cliffs of Albion. We have a chipped sea, but hold a sweet service of song, and a Palestine exercise. At night we enter the Scheldt and after awaiting the morning tide, with a river-pilot sail up stream to Antwerp, where we leave the good c r aft and officers and crew who have brought us 3,400 miles over the watery waste without accident. Right glad are we to step on Terra Firma. We are met by an English courier who shows us the celebrities of Antwerp and Brussels, (described in my previous tour). At Paris, our future Conductor, A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN 443 Dr. Robert H, Crunden of London joins us and our Palestine party receives several additions. We now number twenty-eight, of whom ten are ladies, and six are clergymen, and several, Sunday school workers. In passing Avignon, France, where is a monument to Petrarch's Laura, it is interesting to remember that in 1326, the poet Petrarch first saw Laura here at church. He was 22 and she in her eighteenth year. She never gave him any token of regard and married another, but her beauty inspired him with an ardent affection which lasted till after her death in 1348. Throughout his life he sang her praise in song. He was that rare type of man, a soul suffused with purest, tenderest sentiment. At Marseilles we took the Messageries Maritime steamer, D'Jernnah, which conveys us to Alexandria and Palestine. Here is a fine place for commencing our study of nationalities. There are Arminians from Turkey on board, an Arab wearing a flowing, white, sheet like garment, and white flowing cap; his complexion is swarthy, his forehead full; his expres- sion alert and sagacious. The Arminians wear the knit red Turkish fez. There are twenty horses on board bought for the young Khedive of Egypt, at a cost of $30,000, with fine dogs and other animals. In the steerage are women with wonderfully large, coal black eyes and hair, and dark faces. They camp down upon the upper deck, there eating and sleeping, and have a hard time when it rains. It is a leaden sky and a gray sea. Many are suffering from "mal AU GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVOR Lb LANDS de mer." Neptune favors me in this regard, but the motion of the ship is unpleasantly vibrant. The sensation of to-day has been the passage through the Strait of Bonifacio between Corsica (the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte) and Sardinia. Toward the sea, these islands present a very rugged front. It is very cool on deck, and we require all our wraps; we thought it mild for March upon the Atlan- tic, but we find the Mediterranean unexpectedly cold. Monday March 28, 1892. We are having a quiet sea with a head wind. To-day we viewed the Volcano Stromboli with smoke issuing from its crater ; it lies on the left of our course. It is 22 miles from the Lipari isles, and rises to the height of 3,220 feet. According to the Greek traditions, in Stromboli lived Eolus, king of the winds. The foundations of the myth may have been the belief that the direction of the winds for three days following could be known from the manner in which smoke issued from the crater. Ulysses is related to have visited king Eolus. We have been viewing the interesting island Panaria which lay near our path. It rises to the height of 1380 feet; has a little village on its southern exposure and vineyards and olives on the mountain side. Two smaller rocks are thought to have origi- nally belonged to it, but may have been split off by volcanic agency. The region is volcanic, Vesuvius being northward and not far distant, and Etna lying directly south in the island of Sicily. On our right are the Lipari islands, seven in num- ber. A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN 145 On the fifth day out from Marseilles, we approached the strait of Messina. The wind which had been fresh now resembled a hurricane. How the awning flapped! The sails were clued fast, and everything made taut. The roar of the winds was tremendous, but just as it threatened a perfect carnival, it died away. No wonder the cave of the winds was thought to be near here. To our left lay the coast of Calabria, Italy, its mountain crest white with snow. To our right the Lipari group, and now the light-house and a low line of sand hills. Here is the strait of Messina which we enter, and the winds grow calm. A small fishing village adjoins the Sicilian cape ; on our left is Rhegium (or Reggio) of which the great apostle Paul wrote "we fetched a compass to Rhegium." The scene was a pretty picture. Messina soon appeared in sight. It has eighty thousand people, and with the forty-eight villages, there are J 20,000 inhabitants along the sea coast of Sicily. The island is densely populated, 247 to the square mile, of whom four fifths can neither read nor write. Through this narrow Strait of Messina many dis- tinguished men have passed; Paul and Hannibal — in the long ago. Before reaching it we passed between Scylla and Charybdis. Scylla lies eastward next Italy, — a rock; ..Charybdis was a whirpool opposite, to be avoided. On the D'Jemnah these are the regulations as to meals. From 6 to 7 is "coffee au lait," coffee with milk; it is too strong to drink and the tea has the same fault. With it are served indifferent bread and 446 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS unsalted butter. We then go on deck till breakfast which is at 10. There is then a liberal provision. At I p. M. boullion; and at 6 p. M. dinner with a written Menu and elaborate dishes, but they are so oily and foreign-flavored that I would gladly ex- change them for the more relishful food of home. The motion of the ship, the odors, the crowded quarters of the staterooms on Mediterranean steamers, the unappetizing cookery, and ten days on shipboard under leaden skies, are a test alike of physical endur- ance, and good nature. But we shall enjoy terra firma all the more by contrast. We are now near the pathway of Euroclydon, the Levanter in which Paul was shipwrecked between Malta and Crete. It is the sixth day from Marseilles; there has been a favorable change in the weather; the sea is calm, we are making good progress, and our spirits rise. This morning we sighted CANDIA or Crete. It is an island in the Mediterranean, south of Greece, 150 miles in length by six to thirty-five in breadth. On it are mountains apparently white with snow. It has a seaport population, and recalls Paul's shipwreck related in the 27th chapter of Acts. With difficulty the ship in which he sailed, one carrying wheat from Alexandria to Rome, had passed the eastern promontory of Crete, from the violence of the wind. It anchored in the roadstead or fair- haven of the island, and it was purposed to spend the winter in a port on the S. W. of Crete, which we doubtless passed in sight of. But when the south A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN 447 wind blew softly, setting sail, they were caught in a hurricane which abounds in the S. E. of the Mediter- ranean and shipwrecked off the coast of Malta. There were 272 souls. The swimmers leaped into the sea, and made their way by swimming, the rest on boards, and broken pieces of the ship; all escaped safe to land, where the barbarous people of Malta, true to that sentiment of humanity which God im- plants in the human breast, "showed them no little kindness." On we go, ever on. We are near, or at, the scene where the form of a sainted missionary, my sister (Mrs. J. Ballard Rendall) returning from twenty-two years of devoted service in the East Indies, was com- mitted to the Deep. A lonesome place for burial is this mysterious, unresting, melancholy sea. Precious cargoes thou hast engulfed, but "Never such treasure was hidden in Thee," But God will care for his own. A beautiful soul, she lived a nobly beneficent life; aye lives still in a nobly inspiring influence. Her oldest son is a minister of the gospel, and professor in a University, her oldest daughter has worthily "mothered" a family of eleven children, two other daughters are missionaries in India, and two more have rejoined her where there is no more separating sea. Her bereaved companion after thirty-eight years of rarely consecrated service in Hindostan, entered into rest at Bombay. When they who have nobly served the world depart, the loss is not individual only, but Humanity's. Murmuring sea! O wonderful Sea! what secrets 448 GOLCSN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS are locked up beneath thy smiling bosom ! Thousands of years ago, thou didst bear the representatives of old time civilizations from shore to shore. Over thee went those who made history, who built towns and founded nations. Here went the merchant ships laden with silk, jewels, and perfumes of the Orient, bearing the flaming dyes of Tyre. Over thee Egypt sent her stores of wheat for the proud Romans. Here the gaily and the war fleet sailed, and thy waters were crimsoned with blood. Ah! many are thy secrets of sorrow; and when Deep calleth unto Deep with thundrous diapason, when waves whisper, moan, and lift up their hands, or solemnly chant a requiem, it requires but little imagination to hear in them the tale of awful tragedy; of sunken ship, of lost argosy, of drowning men, of brave crew, of fair women and sweet babes, of the strong swimmer in his agony, who sank "With bubbling groan Unknelled, uncofnned and unknown," What change of History has this Ocean witnessed. Empires decayed, and cities overthrown and blotted out! All changed, O Sea, but thee. "Time writes no wrinkles on thy azure brow Such as creation's dawn beheld, thou rollest now." There are secrets of beauty, too, thou hidest away; there are loveliest tinted shells, and heavenliest blue grotto, and islets fair as Eden's bowers, and sunrises and sunsets, and storm-scenes, which might make any picture-gallery die of envy! "Full many a gem of purest ray serene The dark unfathomed caves of ocean bear." A CRUISE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN 449 But what have we here? Yonder looms the coast of Africa! Chapter xxxiv. ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT, It is a most interesting prospect. Yonder is the Pharos lighthouse, the dismantled palace, the long breakwater, the new harbor and the old one of Alex- andria; and welcome sight! here is the pilot who is to conduct us into port, climbing the D'Jemnah. We enter the old harbor, the new being choked with sand. Inside the breakwater, the sea is smooth exceedingly, like glass, — blue and green, striped like ribbon. Upon this quiet haven we note a buoy, dredging boat, British man-of-war, and an Italian steamer; sand-dunes and windmills mark the coast. We come at last to take our place at the wharf. There is a great Babel of voices as the passengers go on shore for the Arab nature is excitable and demonstrative. Gaze's agent met us and brought six landaus which we rilled for a long glorious drive. Our ship will be our hotel while we are in port, but we shall come and go in Alexandria at will. The first impression is of the multitude of swarthy and black persons, dressed in strange flowing costumes, that swarm around the docks and city. These are the Egyptian Arabs in red fezs or with turbans around their heads. A garment shaped like 4c ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT 451 a sheet envelopes their forms, some times of white. Occasionally this garment resembles a long flowing night-gown of white, or blue, which latter color is a favorite with them. The feet of the poorer class are bare, the more well-to-do wear stockings and slippers. Our route was first through the Arabian quarter, then through the French, then into an old fellah town by the Mahmoudieh canal, thence to the garden of Antoniades, a wealthy Greek; then to Pompey's pillar, viewing also the Mohammedan burial ground hard by. It is a succession of surprises and delights which holds us in tense excitement. The Arabian quarter was profoundly interesting, because altogether novel to our American eyes. There were the most grotesque-looking persons in every shade of brown and black; there were veiled women with a queer ap- pendage (something like a miniature clothespin) be- tween the forehead and mouth which held the heavy swathings of the head and person in place, yet per- mitted the use of the eyes and nose. This is worn by wives and betrothed women. The Arab quarter is the made land, or neck of the bridge between the Pharos and the mainland of Egypt. Many of these Egyptians look bright and capable, for instance Gaze's agent, who is alertness and energy personified; or the Arab guide who conducted me in this morning's stroll. The women carry their babies in a novel way; the child sits a-straddle on the mother's shoulder, and holds on to the mother's head. The shops are recesses six feet in width. Alexandria has a population of 200,000. We 452 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS found the new quarter built up finely since the bom^ bardment of 1882. Here is a monument to Mehemet Ali, the grandsire of the present Khedive, the chief ruler of Egypt, Thence we rode to the Mahmoudich Canal where we saw the Cubicals or houses built of Nile mud. They resembled the rudest, adobe houses of the New Mexicans. At last we reached the pala- tial villa and elegant, extensive gardens of Antoniades,. the Greek, Here was a climbing vine magnificently covering the residence with the greatest profusion of deep pink blossoms, the Bougainvillea. The house is of modern construction with marble floor, and hand- some and costly furnishings. The gardens employ many score of natives and include acres of choice tropical shrubs and flowers. Sweet was the breath of orange blossoms. In the evening we went to a Native entertainment called by some an Egyptian Ball. I had little idea of what it was, till after the visit, — a hall with pictures, and brilliantly lighted. A man shouted every few minutes in Arabic, and supplied drinks, which are not spirituous, Mohammed happily having interdicted intoxicating drinks. Men and women were smoking cigarettes. Three men played instru- ments similar to the zither or banjo, a third a flute. The music was minor, all melody or air, without the harmony of parts, runs played very rapidly, with a certain skill, but eventually becoming monotonous. Then followed dancing, if that name might be ap- plied to a series of astonishing gymnastic perform- ances by a young lady moving to the music. We saw ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT 453 no dancing by both sexes together. These performers with several other ladies all occupied the platform. The young women were very much adorned with silk dresses, necklaces, and gold beads. The chief damsel performing evolutions, or Delsartian movements wore a short jacket of brilliant pink, a space of white silk below it spanned the diaphragm, then came a short skirt and gilt shoes. She swayed her body and made it quiver exceedingly to the instrumental music. Meanwhile the room was filled with tobacco smoke, some using a long tubular pipe, the argileh. Sellers of flowers and retailers of drinks were circulating. Another sight I saw at the door of a Mosque. It was noon, and Arabs were prostrating themselves in prayer, with their faces toward Mecca. They are very religious in their way. In St. Andrew's Scotch church we saw the School and Mission. Here are youths of Greek, French, Arabian and Israelitish Nationalities gathered for instruction. This is wise, for if we save the youth to day, the nation will be saved to-morrow. I looked on awhile in the large Roman Catholic church where a funeral was being conducted, and thence repaired to a fine Greek church. The Copts wear dark clothing and a dark turban. The mission of the American Board was among this class of Egyptians who are nearest the Scriptural faith. The fruit of the native is pumpkin and cucumber. The method of salutation is formal but beautiful; it is a motion of the hand to the heart, lips, forehead and heart again. Mumnoon signifies — obliged to you; 454 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Hartrack, good-bye. As we took our leave from the house of Antoniades, the Arab in charge said to our conductor who had lately been bereaved, as a parting wish, "God build up his home. May he be blest." Could anything have been more apropos or poetic ? A MORNING WALK. Saturday morning I rose early and with one of our party took a walk in Alexandria. From the stonepaved main street we branched off into the Arabian quarter. Natives were standing, squatting or lying upon the wharf. Women were driving goats with great full udders ready for milking; there was bleating of the herd. One quadrangle was an Arabian market. There were numberless baskets filled with tomatoes, or beans, a large pod with three or four beans which the Arabs eat raw. There was one passage-wa3 T de- voted to donkevs, an animal in these wildernesses of sand "to the manner born." In the midst of the throng of Arabs, stood one auctioneering the vegeta- bles; another with paper and pencil keeping tally in Arabic. By the wall sat a recorder with a bag of money, which was pointed out to us by a native, with a smile. We were reminded of Matthew sitting at the receipt of custom. A boy followed us saying in distinct English, "Do something for me, do some- thing for me." It was pathetic. From the ruder streets we emerged to the wholesale department. The stores are rooms six feet square, the front wholly open to the street; a curtain hangs before it if the owner is out. The owner sits crosslegged at the front ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT 455 awaiting business. I saw a man making wicker work baskets. The stick was held — while being split — by the big toe of the right foot. An Egyptian passed us riding a fully caparisoned camel. After ten o'clock breakfast we organized an excur- sion to Ramleh (Eygpt) the site of the professed tomb of the fascinating Cleopatra. Saw Bedouins irrigat- ing fields; saw a lake. Respecting the alleged dis- covery we can only say — here is the sarcophagus of a large woman. We sailed for Porte Saide, past the Rosetta mouth of the Nile, past Aboukir where Lord Nelson defeated Bonaparte in a grand naval engagement, — and reached port at five next morning. Porte Saide is a new- built city of 35,000 inhabitants at the mouth of the Suez Canal. Its business is the supply of coal to ships, of which a great number enter and emerge from the canal from day to day. It has grown up since the completion of the Canal, and has sixty English-speaking families. On our arrival a great number ofEgyptians crowded upon a raft and hastened to the side of our ship, seeking employment. A Turkish vessel full of soldiers had just entered the canal. Leaving the ship by rowboats we attended the Episcopal service on shore. Then walked to the Hospital, the Governor's garden, the Park; the office of the British and Foreign Bible Society which seemed like a mission office in the United States. Inland stretched the level, yellow sands unshaded by a tree; coastward, rough waves came tumbing on the beach. A Nubian, tall, black, and comely was 456 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS submitting his foot to a shoeblack. On board a conjurer performed tricks so incomprehensible that a European pronounced them Black Art. Certainly the skill that can do such astonishingly clever things demonstrates full brain capacity. CHAPTER XXXV. PALESTINE. Monday April 4th. Early this morning our steam- ship D'Jemnah, with our Palestine party aboard, anchored in the open roadstead in front of Jaffa. At a quarter past four of a perfect day, I was the first woman on deck to view the country of countries, The Holy Land ! At last before us was the object of our wanderings, the bright cynosure of our many waking dreams! It was that sweetest hour, the early Dawn, before the sun peeps over the horizon bar. The revolving light from the Jaffa light-house shone at regular in- tervals like a great, flashing, red star. The view was fine; a stretch of coast with a high rocky pro- montory where houses rose above house tops covering its brow. Southward to far off Gaza, lay the white sands; northward in dim outline loomed the beauti- ful mountain where Elijah dwelt in old Testament times, Mt. Carmel. Eastward lay the emerald plain of Sharon, with a strong background of bold, Judean hills. Between us lying at anchor on the sea which lay still as a cradled infant, and the shore, stood ominous big rocks like bull dogs, or sea lions guarding the entrance. It is this ragged reef which makes 45? 458 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS entrance by large vessels impossible. It was to one of these portentous rocks that fabled fair Andromeda was chained, till delivered by the gallant Perseus from the sea monster by which she was in danger of being devoured; when, as in the novels, he made her his bride. Meanwhile as we gazed, all grew motion and ex- citement. Strong surf boats shot out to sea, sur- rounded us and there was a Babel of sounds. Tourist- line agents came aboard, the baggage was collected and transferred, and descending a ladder by the ship's side, by 6:30 A. M. we were in the native boats by which alone landing is effected, This is sometimes difficult and dangerous in rough weather; it is what makes landing here dreaded. Occasionally it is quite impracticable to land, and the unfortunate passenger must proceed to Haifa 60 miles north, or Beyroot. This morning the landing was pronounced perfect. Yet the fresh breeze that sprung up with the sunrise ruffled the water and boats which could hold two dozen persons danced up and down the waves. The tug of war is at the rock reef, but these Arabs are skillful. The danger line is safely passed, we leap upon a stone coping, ascend some steps and are in the land of David, prophets, apostles, the land of the Christ ! What a motley assemblage is here ! Miserable, ragged, tawny-hued creatures in fantastic clothing, holding out the hand for backsheesh, — camels laden with heavy burdens, striding with pathetic majesty. Qne lying down made a pitiful noise, as if protesting PALESTINE 459 against the load it was to carry. From the ragged ancient town we went in carriages up to Mr. Rolla Floyd's hotel which looks upon an extensive and charming orange and palm grove. If the oriental mendicancy had startled us, now we were delighted with the lovely view. Hillside and garden were clothed in living green, and orange blossoms deli- ciously scented the air. Above the glossy verdure of or- ange trees rose the tall palms straight as an arrow and terminating in plumy foliage. Then too the narrow quarters and unwelcome odors of a ship which for ten days had been our abode were exchanged for a clean and delightful hotel. After due refreshment we sallied forth for our first walk in the Land of Promise. Jaffa, the Joppa of the Bible, now pronounced by the Syrians Affa or Yaffa, is the seaport of Jerusalem, it has a population of 30,000 and fine gardens and plantations, and exports much fruit. Its beginning was earlier than the days of Moses, more than fifteen centuries before Christ. Here in the days of King Solomon the cedars of Lebanon, designed for the Temple were landed. From this place Jonah fleeing from the Lord sailed away to Tarshish on the coast of Spain. Here Peter restored Dorcas. Here too he lodged with Simon a Tanner. Since the Christian era, the city has under- gone many and disastrous fortunes, has been sacked, burnt and its inhabitants put to the sword. Of late years it has been prosperous and growing. There seems to be but one thoroughfare, but it introduced us to many unaccustomed sights; a Greek priest, the 460 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS flat cover of whose high silk hat projects over the cylindrical part; a goat-skin receptacle for water carried on donkey-back ; Syrian and Bedawin in quaint flowing oriental costumes; wretched mendicants; great, patient, striding camels, in single file; little donkeys heavily laden; a large, outdoor bazaar kept by dusky-hued Syrians, with strangely attired groups wandering hither and thither; narrow winding alleys as we ascend the summit of the promontory. We do not wonder the prophet said "Make straight paths for your feet." Emphatically the gospel of soap and water needs to be preached and practiced here. Here is a new Latin church of St. Peter connected with the Franciscan order, ornamented but of cheap material. We reach in the south part of Jaffa the house of Simon the Tanner, with its ancient fig-tree, well, and stone-stairway leading to its roof, and like Peter we ascend. Here we took the beautiful view which must have delighted his soul — of city, craggy reef and smiling, shining sea beyond. Here he had his trance, in which he learned to scorn none whom God has made. The roof is surmounted by a low dome. We closed our stroll with a ramble by per- mission in the great orange grove, where all gathering in a group, a spray of two superb oranges, weighing a pound and a half was formally presented to the writer as the one farthest from home, etc. ! — Forty or fifty Syrian girls are instructed in Miss Arnot's school whose performances and motion songs during our visit were creditable alike to teacher and pupils. The school was left nearly sixty dollars richer for the. visit of our party, Palestine 4oi Tuesday, April 5th. This memorable day we rode to Jerusalem. April is the month of flowers in Palestine, and we could have had no time more favor- able. The sky was blue, the morning and evening fresh, the noontide hot. There is an excellent car- riage-road from Jaffa to the Holy city. The distance including the undulations of mountain and vale is called forty miles. We started, a gay cavalcade of six landaus, each drawn by three horses abreast, with drivers and native attendants, baggage lashed on donkeys, and beasts laden with the noon lunch; for though there is an Inn at Bab-el-Wad, it is necessary to carry our provisions with us. On the way were cactus hedges of most ancient and luxuriant growth; processions of loaded camels, single file, — loaded -donkeys, little creatures whose independent movements reminded us of frisky kittens; very useful they were; women coming from the fountain near the gate with water pitchers on their heads; the latter were a picture worthy an artist's study. The house of Dor- cas is on high ground in the edge of the town, a large building with a cupola on the site of the house where lived Dorcas, the benefactor of the poor. The great, gently undulating, fertile plain of Sharon extends eastward seventeen miles to the mountains of Judea, and northward and far along the coast. It was beautifully green with growing wheat, and gay with countless red blossoms much resembling poppies, but called by residents the rose of Sharon. Syrians were at work ploughing with small oxen, or a camel, using a plough of peculiar 462 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS construction. A camel costs from 15 to ^25, the average is eighteen pound sterling or $90. The new railroad was built to Ramleh, this is the easy por- tion, the more difficult part winding among mountain curves was not completed till months later. A tele- graphic line is constructed. For the tourist the carriage ride is preferable as better revealing the an- tiquities of this historic ground. My carriage-companions were cosmopolitan, one represented Newcastle on the Tyne, England, — another, a manufacturer, represented New England, a third the Sunny South of Virginia, myself Iowa and Chicago, the charioteer was a dark-hued descendant of Ishmael. Said the Virginian, This holy land tour is the fulfillment of a dream and ambition that dates back to my boyhood. Said the Englishman, With me it has also been a long cherished desire which I scarce dared hope to realize. We took sweet counsel — as did Christiana and her companions en route for the heavenly Jerusalem, on the things of the kingdom, conversion, the Christian life, personal holiness. It was sweetly profitable. We passed the spot— Hazar Shual, where accord- ing to tradition Sampson caught the 300 foxes; halted at Ramleh founded in the eighth century, once an important city, now a small village whose ancient Saracenic, stone tower afforded us an extensive pan- orama. The altitude of the tower is about 120 feet. Here is the traditional Arithmathea. We investigated the subterranean vaults which probably belonged to extensive monasteries erected after the crusade PALESTINE 463 period. At Ramleh were nine Lepers waiting and holding up maimed hands, from which the joints had wasted away with that death-in-life leprosy. Our route lay over a broad wady called the Valley of Ajalon where Joshua commanded the sun and moon to stand still (Joshua x:i2); Bab-el-Wad, at the gateway of the Judean hills where is a khan where our lunch was served; Latrun, said to be the birth- place of the penitent thief; we were now ascending the rugged stony range of hills; Kirjath Jearim where the ark of God abode 20 years, now a poor village with a convent and Latin church; Mizpeh which signifies watchtower and is a poor village near the summit of an elevated ridge. It is the same as Neby- Samwil and has a decayed mosque, which is thought to be the tomb of Samuel. To the south as we went to Jerusalem lies the town Ain Karim where John the Baptist was born. It is on a side hill; a red house was indicated as having been occupied by the hero, General Gordan. The numerous villages of this hill country are built of stone and appear to be in a condition of decay, though still occupied. Olive groves are numerous, the olive flourishing on a stony soil. Other trees are few. We have passed kharub and terebinth trees. The fences are of stone, and the general appearance of the land, even at this season, when Nature tries to hide the grimness and poverty of the soil with her freshest green, is that of dreary wastes. Yet under thorough culture and a more efficient government it might become quite fruitful and blossom as the rose. 464 golden Memories of old ivOrld L4Nbs On one hill summit we saw an illustration of John x:27, a shepherd leading not driving his flock. They knew his voice and followed him. Christ said, "I am the good Shepherd." We met a flock of goats driven to market by wild Arabs clad in picturesque attire; it has a certain flowing gracefulness. At the brook Elah we dismounted and sought smooth stones like those with which David filled his sling from this very brook, before he killed Goliath, the Philistine champion. Here we met one of our future dragoman, Mr. Mishmey of Jerusalem, familiarly called Abu Shikery. "He is the best man in Jerusalem," said Mr. Floyd laughingly, "when I am not there." Ac- cording to Syrian custom the two men greeted each other fervently, kissing twice, once on each cheek. Some two miles northward of Latron we had seen the traditional Emmaus, where Jesus appeared to the two disciples. It lies on the slope of a hill near its summit, but the site is disputed, and perhaps will never be known quite certainly, so much have names changed in nineteen centuries. It is interesting to picture the Master walking with the two, perhaps along this very road, uttering the living words which made their hearts burn within them. At last the mountain gorges grew wilder and deeper, hills peeped o'er hills, and lo, the long ex- pected Jerusalem burst upon our eager vision. Oh, how disappointing! exclaimed one ardent enthusiast. At this point it was impossible to get a comprehen- sive view. This was the large new quarter outside the city walls, and northwest of the Jaffa Gate. But PALESTINE 465 when later we surveyed it from Mount Olivet, all were more than satisfied, and stood entranced. After an exciting, all-day's ride in the bland atmos- phere which was like early June at home, we were domiciled in the Jerusalem hotel outside the city walls. It was well managed by male Syrians, quiet, com- fortable, and picturesque; and was our center for numerous tours. It was near to a Mohammedan minaret on whose lofty parapet as the clock struck eight at night, a priest appeared and loudly called in Arabic, "Pray! men, pray! the time flies fast, and the judgment hastens!" Wednesday, April 6th. To-day we made an ex- cursion by carriage to Rachel's Tomb, Solomon's Pools and Bethlehem. These all lie to the south of Jerusalem. Our route lay first outside the city wall, which is of hewn stone and from twenty to fifty feet high, crowned with towers and battlements. To our left towered Mt. Zion, on our right declined the deep valley of Hinnom; beyond it the ground rose gently. South of Jerusalem rose steeply the Hill of Evil Counsel. As we left the city, xMount Zion sank rapidly some 300 feet to the vale of Hinnom which winding east- ward joins the deep valley of Jehosaphat, which bounds the east side of Jerusalem. Where these two vallies met, they both slunk away southeastwardly to the Dead Sea. The country we traversed is of lime- stone formation, and while its curves and hills are picturesque and pleasing to the eye, look barren and desolate. They are however adapted to olive-growing, 466 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS a profitable crop, and here and there to grain and the vine. On the brow of a high ridge overlooking Bethlehem we came to the convent of St. Elias, where tradition says Elijah rested, and the print of his body on the stone was pointed out! To the west we saw the sightly village of Kish, the father of Saul, high up the mountain slope. At a point where Jacob touchingly said of his first love, "There I buried Rachel," is a small square stonebuilding, with a dome; in it we saw the tomb of the young mother of the tribes of Joseph and Benjamin. The tomb is plastered over with mortar, and is mentioned by Jerome in the fourth century. Here the road forks, one way going to Bethlehem, the other we now pursued to the Pools of Solomon. We found three immense reservoirs in a valley sloping to the east. They are built of squared stones and are of immense antiquity. The lower pool is 582 feet in length, by 207 broad. Near them is a Saracenic fortress or barracks for the keepers of the pools. In Solomon's time there was an Aqueduct which con- veyed this pure, delicious water to Jerusalem, now out of order, and no longer used. We drank from a well near by in which a Syrian woman descended and brought up water. Further up the slope, was a most noble fountain of gushing water, which was long enclosed, securely fastened and the entrance unknown. The monks say it illustrates "My beloved is a spring shut up, a fountain sealed." At the base of the declivity were women washing clothes in the PALESTINE 467 running brook, and beating them with stones. We returned by Rachel's tomb, over a highway doubtless traveled by King Solomon in his glittering chariot drawn by prancing steeds. Before his time went David whose court was at Hebron; and many centuries earlier, Abraham, who lived at Hebron. It was enough to kindle the emotion of the most prosaic to visit, as we now did, the city of Ruth's charming idyl, the birthplace of the impassioned poet-king David, and of the Savior of the world, BETHLEHEM. It is beautifully situated — six miles from Jerusalem on the brow of a sightly hill, overlooking olive and rig plantations, romantic gorges, and the emerald plain where shepherds watched their flocks by night. "When angels with their sparkling lyres Made music in the air.' ; As we entered the gate of this ancient village, its broad street swarmed with Arabs, old and young. Its houses are built of brick and clay, and the Latin Convent connected with the church of the Nativity has been pronounced the most chaste architectural building in Palestine. Through its spacious hall, and between rows of gray marble Corinthian pillars, we approached a spiral stairway, by which we de- descend to the Grotto of the Nativity. This is sup- posed to be the cave or manger where Christ was born. It is brilliantly lighted and the exact spot of the birth is indicated by a star inlaid in costly Italian marble; another hollowed block of white marble indi- 468 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS cates the manger where he was laid; the whole now guarded with zealous religious care. Thence we passed to St. Jerome's cell, where this father of the church translated the Scriptures, living there thirty years, and there being buried. Near by was the tomb of the wealthy christian patroness Paula, of Rome. We drank at David's well of the cool delicious water which was brought to David on the battle day, at imminent peril of life of his followers. From a high ledge was visible the mound tomb of King Herod, with the cave of Adullam behind it, and in the valley was the enclosed Shepherd's field, a vivid bit of green. "O little town of Bethlehem, How still we see thee lie! Above thy deep and dreamless sleep The silent stars go by; For in thy dark streets shineth The ever lasting Light; The hopes and fears of all the years Are met in thee to-night! For Christ is born of Mary, And gathered all above, While mortals sleep the angels keep Their watch of wond'ring love. How silently, how silently The wondrous gift is given! So God imparts to human hearts The blessings of his heaven, No ear may hear his coming; But in this world of sin, Where meek souls will receive him still, The dear Christ enters in. O holy child of Bethlehem! Descend to us we pray; PALESTINE 469 Cast out our sin, and enter in,— - Be born in us to-day." Rev. Phillip Brooks D. D. Returning to Jerusalem we left our carriages out- side the Jaffa gate (which is on the west side of the city wall,) and took our first ramble in the Holy City. The land slopes from the west, to east, but is full of inequalities of surface. The streets are narrow and descend by steps, hence are impracticable for car- riages, though a donkey or camel can traverse them. On account of the intense summer heat, mats are stretched as coverings over the streets, thereby rendering them gloomy and dark. The city is close- built of stone, small shops or bazaars being on either side of the principal passageways. Beside the sale of necessaries the traffic is largely in relics and souve- nirs for pilgrims and tourists, ingeniously wrought from olive wood and mother of pearl. The rude Arabs of Bethlehem do exquisite carving of mother-of-pearl shell. They have made it a fine art. The flat roofs of the stone houses are built arching in low domes which adds to the room within, and the architectural effect. The population is said to be now 50,000. First of all we sought the CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE, which, whether the tomb of Jesus actually was here or not, commemorates an event of the deepest inter- est and significance. On this spot, in the reign of the pagan Romans, a sanctuary to Venus had been reared; Constantine when he became a christian caused a magnificent temple to be built over the sup- 470 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS posed site of Christ's sepulchre. The present large and stately building in the heart of Jerusalem was erected after the conquest of the city by the Crusaders in the twelfth century. It is a pile of edifices 350 feet long and 280 from south to north. In it the Greeks, Latins, Arminians, and Copts have each their own chapel. Beneath the center of a grand and lofty dome is the sepulchre 26 feet long, eighteen broad, and about 20 feet high. Here we looked upon the marble slab which is said to cover where the Lord la} 7 . A great number of lamps are suspended from above. The Greek church is very gorgeous. The sepulchre was nigh to Calvary, and eighteen steps lead up to the supposed spot of the crucifixion, on which we looked. Another theory is that Calvary was outside the north wall upon a knoll beyond the Damascus Gate. Doubtless a wise Providence has left many sacred localities in uncertainty that men may not idolize the relic, or place, but cherish rather the spiritual signifi- cance. . Making our exit by the Damascus gate on the north, we entered the Quarries of Solomon. These are vast, and penetrate under Jerusalem to the substructures of Solomon's Temple, above which is now the Mosque of Omar. These quarries supplied the material of the first Temple, and are unexhausted. CHAPTER XXXVI. A PALANQUIN RIDE TO JERICHO, — THE DEAD SEA AND THE JORDAN. The Palanquin is the luxury of travel. It relieves the elderly traveler, or one unaccustomed to eques^ trianship from the care and danger of horseback riding. It prevents much soreness and fatigue. Re- peatedly I thanked God that it had fallen to my lot to be taken in this manner to some of the most in- teresting places in the world. The arrangement is a sort of sedan chair borne by two poles attached to a mule's-back in front and a mule in the rear. Each mule has his Arab muleteer, while a dragoman, who can interpret, rides beside. The expense is considerable, but the extra comfort and safety compensated me. A gentleman of our party availed himself of another palanquin, and the same dragoman served us both. My muleteers were faithful and reliable; the mules did themselves credit; if there be a paradise for dumb beasts may these attain it. Our dragoman was a tall, well-made, sun- bronzed, picturesquely -attired young Syrian, Saleh Elkery of Shechem, who spoke English in a charming foreign manner, and was in gentlemanly kindness, a true knight. He is a convert of the Baptist church. 471 472 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS The other two Arab attendants are Mohammedans, They sung occasionally snatches of song, Saleh break- ing out into the Bliss and Sankey hymns. The Mohammedan who owned the mules sang the quaint monotonous Arab melody, which ranges only seven or eight notes. He was not master of much English, but after his musical efforts he would look up inquir- ingly and say, "Very good?" and I would respond, "Yes, very good," for it was an interesting sample of its kind. Saleh was six feet, eight inches, and used to dash away on his Arab steed like a free son of the desert. This journey was formerly dangerous on account of Bedawin robbers, but we are under the protection of the Sheik of the whole district, a splendid fellow, with a keen black eye, and a countenance expressive of sagacity, dignity and good nature. " J The road for many miles toward Jericho is excellent. Further on, substantial new stone bridges are built, but the grading of the road is incomplete, there are steep descents and gullies difficult to one in the sad- dle, impossible to a carriage. Our route lay outside the Damascus gate and city wall to the valley of the Kedron; thence at the right of the Mount of Olives to Bethany, where we took an armed escort; thence through the quiet Judean hills, whose barrenness the spring sought to beautify with a slight verdure, to the traditional Kahn of the Good Samaritan, in whose ample enclosure we partook of an appetizing noon lunch provided by our conductor; thence through the desert wilderness by the brook Cherith where Elijah was fed by ravens. A PALANQUIN RIDE TO JERICHO 473 On the way we met tall, dark-skinned, dark- bearded, brilliant-eyed Bedawins coming from beyond Jordan with flocks of sheep and goats. They readily returned a courteous salutation. The brook Cherith runs in a deep gorge and is delicious water. Beside the cave of Elijah a convent has been built in com- memoration. No place, scarcely, could be wilder or lonelier for such an institution. The scenery here grows very bold, impressive and startling. The climax of sublimity is reached in crossing the last high mountains which wall in the plain of the Jordan. We begin the long winding descent to Gilgal. An appalling canon is at our left. Afar toward the right we catch a shining glimpse of the Dead Sea. Be- fore us expands the deep sandy plain of the Jordan. Eastward rise abruptly the peaks of Gilead, Nebo, and a mountain chain called the Mountains of Moab. O the fascination of this scene, with all the Bible associations that throng this historic Vale! The panorama of long gone ages passes before our mental vision; we witness the awful convulsion of nature, that blotted out the guilty cities of the plain in Abra- ham's time, when Lot's wife became a pillar of salt, and when the volcanic smoke went up as a mighty furnace, — we turn to Nebo, and see — after long wanderings in the Desert, the servant of God, Moses, surveying the promised land, and then, after all his heroic life, this great man dying alone upon the mount! — We see the children of Israel under Joshua's leadership cross the Jordan, and the marvelous fall of Jericho's walls, — and once again we see after long 474 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD tVORLD LANDS centuries have rolled by, the gracious form of the Son of Man at the Jordan inducted by baptism and the descent of the Spirit into his wonderful ministry; — we look again; the scene of to-day is one of silence and desolation, but we remember though Christ has passed from human eyes, the glorious truths he taught and embodied are living in human hearts the world over, re-creating and uplifting universal humanity, and destined to be more and more a glorious, saving power till time shall end! We have descended this sublime mountain pass and follow the gushing brook Cherith through the sands to Gilgal where we spend the night at a comfortable hotel. It is not at the site of the old historic Jericho, whose walls fell down at the shout of a marching host. That city became heaps according to prophecy, and is not rebuilt. This town is some distance southeast, and is now rapidly growing. Here are wild thorn trees, and lovely blooming oleanders indig- enous to the soil. Most of our equestrians had greatly felt the strain of nerve of this day's riding. The palanquin was my salvation. Quite refreshed, in the early April morning we set out for the Dead Sea ten miles away. Our route lay over miles and miles of sand in which deep gulches were worn by the annual freshets. This valley is nothing without water, but everything by a judicious use of it. The general insecurity from the lawless and predatory fellahin, sons of Ishmael whose hands are against every man, and every man's hand against them, and the general lack of enterprise of the Turkish govern- A PALANQUIN RIDE TO JERICHO 475 ment has prevented in modern times the proper de- velopment of this region which is of tropical warmth and can produce the earliest harvests of Syria. The present danger seems vastly less than fifty years ago, and the temporal prospects of Syria are brightening. At last we dismounted on the shore of a deep silent Sea, whose waters sparkled and shimmered in the warm sunshine, and broke with pleasant plash upon the pebbly shore, but on whose glassy bosom rode no boat, nor sail appeared. It was profoundly lonely, desolate. Its waters are bitter brine. No fish lives in its depths. It is 1,300 feet below the Mediterra- nean. At one end of this sea (generally believed to be the south) fell the volcanic storm that smote Sodom and Gomorrah, and left destruction on this region forever. Some hold that prior to that eruption this was a fresh water sea. I gathered pebbles on the strand and laved my hands in the briny flood, and found, rare treasure here, a bit of Dead Sea sea- weed, and listened to the murmur of the plashing wave; and never, methinks. will that strange solemn sea, with its blue overhanging haze, in its framework of mountains, fade out from my memory. Northeast is the ruined castle of Macherus where John the Baptist was beheaded. We turned N. E. to reach the Jordan several miles away. Our camp was opposite the Ford where the Israelites crossed the Jordan on dry land; where also Christ was bap- tized. A grove of tamarisk trees afforded a slight protecting shade from the extreme noon heat; and here a well relished picnic-dinner was served by our m GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Arab attendants, of bread, butter, cold chicken, boiled eggs, jelly and lemonade, Jordan water, and raisins and nuts. The Jordan was full and muddy, but Saleh said its waters were sweet as honey. They were indeed excellent, Near our camp we found another party of male tourists, under Cook's man- agement, and numerous natives and horses. We returned to evening dinner at the Jericho hotel, by a native village built of mud and sticks by which were wolfish looking dogs. Nine of our companions were to start for the Galilee trip on the morrow and now went into camp. Their white tents pitched presented a picturesque appearance. Longfellow's couplet Shall fold their tents like the Arabs And silently steal away, may be an allusion to the speed with which these tents can be taken up and folded. The reason said our conductor is: I. Each one has his work to do. II. They all do it. III. They all do it at the same time. Do not these Arabs point a moral hereby to churches, and philanthropists? Next morning we crossed the plain of Jericho to Gilgal where the battles were fought. Sage brush, thorn trees, and varieties of immortelles grow spon- taneously among these sands. We see also Dead Sea apples, a yellow fruit attractive to the eye resembling a small apricot, but crushing like ashes and said to be poisonous. Here we reach the spot where Saul was anointed king. We now find vast fields of grain, the great heat of the plain, hemmed in as it is by A PALANQUIN RIDE TO JERICHO 477 precipitous mountains, east and west, rendering the harvests exceptionally early. We drink from Elisha's noble fountain, and gaze on the probable site of ancient Jericho. It was a commanding beautiful position, on a foothill by the Fountain of Elisha, overlooking the well watered plain, in the Long-ago green with abundant harvests. It was sheltered on the rear, at the west, by the mountains of the wilder- ness of Judea. There uprose the Hill of Quarantana in which were hermit caves, this being the traditional mountain of Christ's 40 days fast and temptation by the devil. Far to the north I discerned the snowy peak of Herrnon. The brook Cherith was a perennial stream of purest water that ran through the plain. The forms and hosts of yore, imagination summons to people these solitudes, and fancies Christ again speaking the words of life, of wisdom, and of love. Yet were he here to-day, poor, homeless, attended only by ignorant fishermen, who of us would recog- nize his divinity, or risk popularity to identify our- selves with him who was despised and rejected of men ? On our return to Jerusalem we paused at Bethany, lunching in an olive grove, visiting the House of Simon the Leper, the tomb of Lazarus which we de- scended by 26 steps, with lighted tapers, and the home of Martha and Mary. The village is in a ruinous condition. The ascent of Mount Olivet in a sudden gust of wind and rain was exciting. We were on the borders of precipices. At our right was the traditional Beth- 478 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS page. As we gained the summit, the shower sub- sided and lo! a glorious vision of the Holy City burst upon us. Mount Olivet is 2650 feet high, and Jeru- salem lay far below us, a city "compact together" within her massive walls; the gray stone houses crowned with domed roofs, and the mosques with domes and minarets. Words fail to do it justice. Thus Jesus looked upon it and wept, saying, "If thou hadst known the things that belonged to thy peace! But now they are hidden from thine eyes. O Jerusalem, Jerusalem, thou that killest the prophets, and stonest them that are sent unto thee, how often would I have gathered thee, as a hen gathereth her brood under her wings, and ye would not! Behold your house is left unto you desolate!" With all its external beauty, a paralysis has lain upon it for centuries. At last, in the latest decade, a new life has sprung up, and west and northwest- ward of the walls many substantial buildings have been erected. The present Sultan is understood to be more progressive in his ideas than his predeces- sors; but Turkish sentiment holds him in narrow limitations. The Jericho excursion was the most pleasant of my life, and in view of a possible tragedy averted, I ex- claim, as did my dragoman, "God saved you!" — Yes, God saved me. The mule gear broke while we were on level ground. I was lifted from my high perch seasonably, and the harness was repaired. But had the harness failed me instead — a few miles later, in that windy blinding squall; when on the verge of un- A PALANQUIN RIDE TO JERICHO 479 known depths, the palanquin might have been over- turned over a precipice, or I might have been tram- pled to death by the frightened mules. Yes, God saved me, and left me only golden memories. The air rendered crystalline clear by the dash of rain, we proceeded down Olivet, after viewing the church of the Ascension, to the Garden of Gethsem- ane. It is planted with beautiful flowers, has a well of cold water and exceedingly old scrawny-trunked olive trees, one of which is called the tree of the Agony. " 'Tis midnight — and on Olive's brow The star is dimmed that lately shown; 'Tis midnight — in the garden now The suffering Saviour prays alone." The olive tree lives to a great age, and this may have been propagated from an original of the chris- tian era. It is guarded with jealous care. Near by in the half subterranean church and sepulchre of the Virgin, we looked upon the tombs of Joseph the hus- band of Mary, and of her parents; a grotto or chapel is said to be Mary's tomb. The church is thought to have been built by Helena, the mother of Constan- tine, in the fourth century. Resuming my palanquin, we visited Absalom's pil- lar, very handsome and impressive, and about forty feet in height; the tombs of Jehoshaphat, of Zech- ariah, and of St. James, the Village of Siloam on a hillside, the fountain and pool of Siloam below, the valley of Hinnom, and thence via the Joppa Gate pro- ceeded to the Jerusalem hotel. 480 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD IVORLD LANDS To-day was the fast of Ramadan, and these poor Mohammedan Muleteers had traveled all day without allowing themselves food. The fast is followed by days of feasting. On reaching my quarters the at- tentive Arab who took care of the room seized my hand in welcome and kissed it with profound respect. He was a thoughtful, honest servant and always said to me at night, "Good night, sleep well." The following day was PALM SUNDAY one of the few great days of the year at Jerusalem. The celebration of Christ's Triumphal Entry into Jerusalem is observed at the church of the Holy Sepulchre. We found a crowd so great as to be a crush, but by the aid of an officer representing the American Consul, we were secured advantageous places for witnessing the ceremonial in the galleries. First was the Greek Procession. An olive tree was borne aloft, followed by elaborately wrought banners, Greek priests robed in figured silk with high, peculiar, black silk hats, — patriarchs with dress and crown of gold; these bearing a tall lighted candle in one hand, and a palm branch in the other. The Eucharist fol- lowed. One came around sprinkling the crowd with holy water fragrant with ottar of roses, and several times I received a portion. Next after the Greeks was the Arminian procession with long red robes. These marched to music around the Sepulchre. Then the Syrians, Maronites and Copts, each with their patriarch. After this gorgeous ceremonial, I proceeded to the house of the A PALANQUIN RIDE TO JERICHO 481 AMERICAN COLONY Started in 1881 by the late lamented Horace G. Spafford of Chicago, whom I remembered as a con- secrated and valued christian worker, when I was a resident of that city. It is a unique institution. As denned to me by his widow, a number of persons were impressed that there was a missionary work to be done in the city where Christ was crucified, and his mission so fearfully misunderstood, by living the full christian life. They did not go as preachers or as nominal and supported missionaries backed by a society. They are paid no salary. They are seeking to save men by a practical exhibition of the Christian spirit, and they have been for ten and a half years singularly sustained. Through others I learned that they have acquired a remarkable influence over Bedawins considered lawless and predatory. Sunday afternoon I attended their regular prayer and praise service. There are about thirty in this household. They have been fortunate in securing pleasant oriental quarters next the city wall near the Damascus gate. These christians are of different nationalities. Several admirably selected gospel songs were most tenderly and beautifully sung. The Arab, Saleh Elkery remarked to me afterward, "When I hear them sing I think I am in heaven and listening to the voices of angels." The Scriptures were ably rendered from the original Greek by one of the inmates, and prayers followed by the ladies and others of the Home, which seemed to introduce us to the atmos- phere of the Holy Ones of the book of Revelations. 482 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD tVOkLb LAUDS For ten years a cross word has not been spoken in this home! God help them to maintain this glorious record, by the gracious restraining influence of His Holy Spirit! God keep them from all contamination, and make them a mighty power and blessing in that benighted city and land! From the roof we enjoyed a superb view of Jerusalem. Sunday evening, several of our party attended the christian service established by a converted son of Israel, Ben Oliel, in Jerusalem. He discoursed on Christ's popularity with the common people of the Jewish race, and the prospect which he thought a good one, that the Israelites would yet return to the land of their fathers, build up the waste places, and make it their home. EL AKSA MOSQUE. Monday, April nth, we visited the Mosque of Omar built 636 A. D. on Mount Moriah, on the site of Solomon's temple, and many hundred years later, of the temple which Herod built, because he wished to ingratiate himself into Jewish favor, and because he loved architectural display. His temple was one and a half times as large as Solomon's. After its destruction a temple of Jupiter was erected on the spot by pagan Rome. A visit to this mosque is second only to a visit to Mecca, in the estimation of the Mohammedans. It is octagonal; has a thick wall and huge columns; gilt work; cut stone with veneering of marble. Within we saw a great enclosed rock, once the Jebusite's threshing floor. To the Israelites it became A PALANQUIN RIDE TO JERICHO 483 the altar of burnt offering. Here Abraham in the test of faith prepared to give back his son to God. The hole in its center was for the flowing of the blood of sacrifice into a sewer which conveyed it out of Jerusalem into the valley of Jehoshaphat. Behind the altar is the Holy Place, and behind that the most holy place. Between was a double curtain, the veil of the temple that was rent in twain. The Mosque is of white and black marble, the ornaments are the letters of the Arabic alphabet interlaced with leaves* the Mohammedan religion forbidding pictures. In it we were shown the copy of the Khoran which is here used in worship, 100 years old. The original Khoran dated back nearly 1,200 years. Southward of the Mosque were the buildings of Solomon where he lived with Pharaoh's daughter. They were connected with the temple by a covered way which he alone trod. The smaller Mosque of Omar has wonderful carving dating to Solomonic days. We saw the burial place of the man who assassinated Thomas a Becket. (Some months later I saw in the Canterbury Cathedral the spot of the assassination.) The Golden gate formerly opening into the court yard is now closed. We saw a small structure where the widow cast in her three mites; also the site of the Knights Templar quarters, in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. They derived their name, Templars, from the Latin kings having their palace in the Mosque also called in that day Solomon's Temple. Strike the temple floor, and it sounds hollow, be- 484 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LAUDS cause underneath it are the Quarries of Solomon, We descend to the substructures. Here are enor- mous pillars, so vast, it seems as if they would last forever. Between Mt. Moriah and Mt. Zion there Was an arched passageway bridging the abrupt de- clivities, in ancient times. We saw the place of the Arch discovered by Dr. Robinson. The level of Jerusalem was in Bible times fifty to seventy feet below the present level. Thence passing oat the city walls on the south, we walked up Mount Zion to Mt. Zion Gate. There were fine views ascending the mountain. Entering the gate at the summit, we saw the burial place of David, Solomon, and Rehoboam; the Coenaculum, or scene of the Last Supper recorded in Mark xiv. ; 15. It is a large upper room of stone. Only recently have the Mohammedans permitted Christians to enter the great Temple area. All this ramble was one of extreme interest. The Moham- medans believe from the Holy Rock of El Aksa will issue the summons to the last great Judgment, and hold the spot in utmost reverence. Tuesday, April 12. This morning's walk was in Via Dolorosa viewing several of the fourteen legendary stations of the Cross- Along this crooked way, monkish tradition says the Savior bore his cross. Here was the Arch of Santa Veronica, Pilate's house from which the stairways were transported to Rome, the Tower of Antonio, the Convent of the sisters of Zion in whose deep base- ment we beheld some of the original pavement of Jerusalem of thousands of years ago, and ascending A PALANQUIN RIDE TO JERICHO 485 we saw Pilate's arch, the Roman Triple Arch, which again took us back to the Christian Era. On the roof of this convent we enjoyed another magnificent near view of the Holy City built on its four hills, Moriah, Zion, Acra, Bezetha Passing on the street Ecce Homo (Behold the Man) we saw an engraved tablet with the Latin inscription, "Locus, quo apprehendat Pilatus Jesus et flagellavit." — Among the interesting antiquities of this walk was Pilate's judgment hall, the pedestal where decrees were proclaimed in Herod's time; and on that ancient pavement, a square containing the lines of a game by which Roman soldiers then killed time. We found the Pool of Bethesda, near St. Stephen's Gate, a large deep reservoir now quite dry. In the afternoon we visited the Jewish Synagogue. It is Passover week, one of the great Jewish festivals. The ante- room contained numerous Jews whose badge of nationality is the wearing of furred caps. They were reading the Scriptures, bowing and swaying the body, and moving the lips as they read. A small youth near me held an open Hebrew book. The loss of the Jewish fatherland which made the Hebrews without a country, scattered and peeled, and driven into strange lands, — and the sway of the In- fidel Turk in their Holy City, and on the very site of their venerated temple, was a wound that struck deep into this peculiar race, the Jews, and has never healed. For a long time they were prohibited enter- ing Jerusalem. They purchased the privilege of going once a year to wail beside the Temple wall. Now 486 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS they have the privilege of going every Friday or oftener to lament the loss of their kingdom and sanct- uary, and read the imprecatory Psalms, — "Be not wroth very sore, O Lord, neither remember iniquity forever; behold, see, we beseech thee, we are all thy people. Thy holy cities are a wilderness, Zion is a wilderness, Jerusalem a desolation. Our holy and beautiful house, where our fathers praised thee, is burned up with fire, and all our pleasant things are laid waste." THE JEWS' WAILING PLACE is at the remnant of the inner wall of Herod's Temple; which dates back before the Christian Era. It now forms the inner wall of the Mosque of Omar. It is the terminus and narrow court of a long crooked street. Here the Jews stand facing the beloved stones of the ancient wall. They lay their hands caressingly over the seams where the great rocks are joined to- gether, then bring them to their lips to kiss. To-day I saw 250 or 300 Jews thus assembled; whereas the number fifty years ago was few. The men were gathered at the end of the street, the women stood next arrayed in new attire, with shawls of bright color. Two Jewish gentlemen apparently of high rank and wealth joined the number, whose elegance and richness of garments was remarkable. The one was enveloped in a long rich purple velvet robe, the other in a blue silk of a perfectly exquisite tint. The sight of this people through the centuries bewailing their national degradation is a very touch- A PALANQUIN RIDE TO JERICHO 487 ing one, and must keep the flickering spark of national love and pride alive, as well as the national monotheistic religion. The spectacle takes place from four to six on Fridays. This service on Tuesday was an extra one, because of Passover week, when stranger Jews are present. On Mount Zion we found the fine Arminian church, erected on the site of the martyrdom of St. James, the Lord's brother. Here on the property of Gamaliel, at whose feet Paul was brought up, James, by order of Herod, was beheaded. In the sixth century a church stood here to his memory. A pleasant interview with Rev. Dr. Selah Merrill, the American consul, an accomplished an- tiquarian, closed another day's privileges. There is a legend respecting the pictures of Christ. The ambassador at Jerusalem from Arminia heard Jesus and reported his speech to his king. The king replied, "Say to him, Come here; there is food enough for me and for you." But ere the message arrived Jesus was crucified. The ambassador then obtained a picture of the Christ, and carried it to his master, and from it all subsequent pictures of the divine Lord have been taken. The next morning, a dusky Syrian artist of Jerusa- lem took THE PHOTOGRAPH of several of our party grouped in the pleasant garden of our quaint Jerusalem hotel. In front upon the grass sits Mr. Rolla Floyd of Jaffa, tourist contractor; next him the Sheik with his sword, under whose protection we visited the Dead Sea, Jordan and Jeri- 488 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS cho; next him, the dragoman, Mr. Mishmey, com- monly called Abu Shickera; the little smiling Syrian maid, and the eight in the back ground belong to the Jerusalem hotel; the dark-skinned tall young man wearing a Turkish fez is my dragoman, Saleh Elkery of Shechem; near the center sits the author of these Golden Memories; Dr. Crunden of London, our con- ductor, stands in the midst; the remainder are mem- bers of our Holy Land party, English and American. Nine valued fellow-travelers are absent from this group, because they were making a detour to Galilee. At Ramleh, returning to Jaffa we saw a beautiful tame specimen of the interesting Stork family, a large white bird, who allowed us to be quite familiar with him. Storks build their nests on chimney-tops, migrate south every autumn, are most kind and help- ful to one another, and very strict in their domestic habits. It is related that some one removed a stork's egg from its nest, inserting a duck's in its place. The stork hatched the egg, and tried to perform faithfully the part of mother to her strange progeny, but the intruder was viewed with doubtful eyes by other storks, and after much clamorous consultation, having assembled all the storkhood of the place, they put to death the intruder and the mother-stork on suspicion of improper conduct on her part! The baron at Jaffa has a beautiful garden and a splendid collection of rare birds, which he kindly allows a sight of to the traveling public. At Jaffa resides Mr. Rolla Floyd whose long acquaintance with Syrians, and historic localities in Palestine, enables him to arrange advan- tageously for the American traveler. A PALANQUIN RIDE TO JERICHO 439 The time had come all too soon when we must leave this most interesting land for Africa. Again the surf- boats bore us to an ocean steamer, up whose side we climbed and took a long, lingering, fond, last look. Jaffa on her rocky height showed finely; beyond her curved the holy hills and dimly in the north loomed up the noble outline of Carmel. Farewell, dear land, whence came the purest of all religions, and a Savior, — in its present barrenness and decay, still a land of fascination and romance — its subject Hebrews and its dusky Arabs yet to be transfused with the gospel, let us hope, — its hills to become the habitation of the Lord, its wilderness yet to bud and blossom as the rose. To this nineteenth century pilgrim, it will ever be invested with charmed recollections, and its strange orientals will touch her heart with tender pity. Jaffa, Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Bethany, Jordan valley, dimly seen Carmel, Hermon, and hamlets among yon mountain slopes, — fare — ye — well! CHAPTER XXXVII. CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS. After a night upon the steamship Malhalla of the Khedivial line, at six A. M. (Friday, April i'5thj we are again at Porte Saide, where without landing, a row boat transfers us to the Horus for a passage down the Suez Canal. Horus is one of the three Egyptian dei- ties, Osiris, Isis, Horus. We are now skimming along between high sandbanks, passing numerous large dredging boats. The large steamer Gloucester-city is aground ; in passing her we too lodge on a sand bar, but are soon pulled off to our great satisfaction by the Gloucester. At Ismailia where is a charming Palm-grove we leave the Horus, take luncheon, and board the R. R. train for Egyptian Cairo. We are now in the fertile LAND OF GOSHEN, and see the route the children of Israel took to Piha- hiroth. The face of the country is an utter contrast to Palestine. There, we were among high hills be- strewn with stones, or among deep valleys. Here is a boundless stretch of level gray sands, or, where irrigated, of fields of verdant grain. Unwatered, Egypt is a dreary monotonous desert; but her lakes and Nile furnish large supplies for irrigation, and 490 CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS 491 with water Egypt blossoms like the rose. We are passing through extensive fields of tall feathery palms, anon of wheat or other grain. Here and there are the rude Nile-mud huts of the fellahin, one story high, roofed with twigs and rags. Zak-a-zig we find an important city. This region is supplied with an irri- gating canal, and demonstrates capacity for fertility, and successful culture. One of our party who came here some years ago from the East Indies remarks the recent improvement in cultivation of the land, and the introduction of the railroad system. Grain is about ripe for cutting. Here are curious -Water Wheels to which a cow is attached who treads a circle. The "wheels go wound" (as Teddy said in Helen's Babies) and fill numerous buckets. The cows are mouse-colored with peculiar horns. At 6 p. M. we reach CAIRO the Capital of Eygpt, and the most populous city of Africa. Egypt has now six million inhabitants. We are now in the land where was educated, and lived at court, the most superior man of antiquity, Moses. A Hebrew by birth; by adoption one of the Egyptian royal family. We are to behold the world-famous Nile where in an ark of rushes he lay a tearful babe; to behold the wondrous Obelisk on which Moses must have gazed at Heliopolis. We are to see mummies and pyramids of such hoar antiquity that beside them, the birth of Christ seems modern. Let us glance at Egyptian history. 492 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Ancient Egypt, whose future seems behind it, had three periods. Nearly three thousand years before the christian era she was a civilized nation. Her first period, or Old Empire was from 2700 B. C. to 2080 B. C. This was the era of the Pyramid builders (2450 B. C). The center of the monarchy then was Memphis. (2). Then began the reign of the Hyksos or Shepherd kings lasting from 2080 to 1527 B. C. In this period Abraham visited Egypt (1920 B. C.) and Jacob and his sons in 1706 B. C. The reign of the Hyksos was a dark period of Egyptian history. (3). Then began the Grand Age (1527 B. C.) when the Hyksos were expelled. Thebes became the capital of the New Empire, and the splendid temple palaces of Thebes were built. Rameses II. or Sesostris be- longed to this period. Moses also led out Israel. The date of the Exodus has been variously assigned as 1491 B. C. and 1320 B. C. Moses was several hundred years earlier than Homer who flourished about 880 or iogoB. C , and the Pentateuch is vastly earlier than the Iliad or Herodotus. Then came the age of decay, and the Persian invasion 525 B. C. Alexan- dria was founded by Alexander the great who obtained dominion over Egypt in 332 B. C. Queen Cleopatra the last of the Ptolemies died thirty years before Christ was born; when Egypt fell under the sway of the Romans. Hotel D'Angleterre, Cairo, April 16th. This morn- ing we took carriages to the Nile. A considerable ride through this vast and well built city southward brought us to a view of this life-giver and preserver. tAlRO AND THE PYRAMIDS 493 It is a noble, broad river with low banks, skirted on the west side with a row of palms. Cairo lies on the east bank. The Nile is a majestic stream and to its periodic overflow are due the harvests and food supply, and the fresh rich soil brought down from the mountains. Its waters are our daily delicious drink at the hotel. We were rowed across a shallow arm of the river to the island Rhoda. Here is a harem; we beheld the place where Moses was secreted in the Ark of bulrushes; also were shown the Nilo- meter or instrument for measuring the height of the water, on which depends the amount of the annual tax levied upon the people. This Nilometer is iooo years old. The Ptolemies had one at Philae, at the first Cataract, 2000 years old. Above the island many boats with long sails furled were lying to the shore. We caught a first view of the three Great Pyramids of Gizeh in the distance to the S. W. There are seventy pyramids on the left bank of the Nile. Seventeen miles above was ancient Memphis, so large it was a day's journey to walk through it. Little of it now remains. We alighted next at the gate of the old Coptic quarter. It has a wooden spike with three nails for a key. One of our adventurous Yankees experimented in unfastening it, and locked us in, but could not let us out. Here was a dilemma, but our Conductor touched the secret spring which freed us. Through narrow alleys, and quaint ancient dwellings we walked to the church of St. Mary erected over the place where the Mother and Blessed Babe rested in Egypt. 494 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS El Hassan University is the center of instruction to the Mahometan world. There are 12,000 students; of all grades from the beginner to the graduate. The pupils sat upon mats, or on the floor grouped around the instructor. They move upward, and downwards when learning; from side to side, when praying. Adults are sensitive to the inspection of foreigners at their school exercises. EL HASSAN MOSQUE has very beautiful mural decorations, four alcoves and an atrium, a rose window, and the tomb of Sultan Hassan. It is thought to have the finest doorway in the world. The building dates back j6j years. While we were there, with the noon hour came the sudden call to prayer. Instantly the man within called to a Mohammedan on the minaret who sounded aloud in Arabic, "Pray! men, Pray." From the Citadel we had a magnificent view of this great Egyptian city of near half a million. The Citadel crowns a commanding eminence overlooking the Nile Valley. Conspicuous here is the symmetrical Ala- baster Mosque with its graceful slender turrets. The view from this summit is one ever to haunt the memory of him who has been so fortunate as to be- hold it. There are three climacteric centers of in- terest in Egypt, Palestine and Greece, — the Citadel and Alabaster Mosque at Cairo, — the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, — the Parthenon at Athens. At the Tombs of the Mamelukes we saw the tomb of the mother of the late Khedive, tombs of the Royal CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS 495 family, and of Ibrahim Pasha. Easter Sunday we spent in Cairo. It was a day of great rejoicing, illuminations and heavy and frequent detonations of cannon. This was due to Easter coming this year on the same day to Greek, Copt, and Christian, which rarely occurs; and perhaps also to the news of the acceptance of the Young Khedive by the Sultan. The Episcopal church was adorned with palm sprays, and there was a full congregation of Europeans and English speaking people. We returned through the charming Esbekieh Gardens, fronting hotel d'Anglecerre, and with an invalid who needed a drive, I rode across the Nile to the Shoubra shady avenue of Sycamores. This is the fashionable driveway or Rotten Row of Cairo, and there was a great display of stylish equipages and fast driving. I was reminded of the Bois de Bologne in Paris on a festival day. At the American Mission I saw a Sunday school of Egyptian Arabs, all with brunette complexions, black hair and coal-black eyes. Pure white cloths were over their heads and bodies, or in some instance black cloths; some had ear-rings. The sexes sat separately. They were orderly and attentive. There are six central mission stations, whose missionaries carry on evangelistic educational Sunday school, and zenana work. Monday, April i8th. On this memorable day I visited THE PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH. We had a long ride through Cairo and across the Nile, then through a finely built avenue, lined on either 496 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS side with broad-spreading sycamores. At last from a plain of desert sands arose three huge pyramids. The largest, Cheops, is 450 feet high, its base 764 feet and it covers more than thirteen acres. Some of its stones are enormous. 2000 men were employed three years in bringing one stone from the quarry. These colossal structures are the sepulchres of kings. k\. a time when the population was immense, and work very cheap, the building of these pyramids furnished occupation and living to vast numbers of laborers, and at the same time perpetuated the memory of kings down the ages. The characteristic of Egyptian archi- tecture is immensity not beauty. The artists were sadly fettered by the rules of art and religion of Egypt which forbade their giving play to their imagination. The pyramids are stupendous and unique. Our conductor paid the proper fees for the whole party for the ascent to a Sheik, who provided the necessary Arabs. On alighting from the carriage, two immediately assisted me up to the door of the interior of the largest pyramid. Thence by a narrow, very difficult, very steep passage, an Arab helping on each side, I groped downward toward the first chamber. The next stage is still narrower; at the bottom there is a well. When I had enough of this, I returned and enjoyed the fine view at the doorway which is some distance up the side of the Pyramid. Meantime many stronger, younger and with bolder nerve had nearly reached the summit, from which they soon returned. The scene is exciting. I now took a donkey-ride to the Sphynx. My helper was the CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS 497 Sheik, Ali Dobri, who has high testimonials from eminent explorers, and whom I take great pleasure in recommending to future visitors. He added vastly to my safety and happiness that day by his most helpful and considerate attentions, and from him I secured a valuable relic, a teraphim from the tomb of the daughter of Cheops 4000 years old. Sphynx means mystery. So large is the Sphynx, a man may hide in its ear. It is 100 feet around its fore- head! It is of limestone. Down in the nearly adja- cent Temple of the Sphynx, which is of Sienitic granite and alabaster, I saw blocks of stone perfectly colossal. En route, we saw catacombs and inscrip- tions of immense antiquity. An Arab village lay in sight on the sandy plain. Ali Dobri showed me his home beside a tall palm tree. Under him are 60 souls. When the sight-seeing ended came the be- seeching for backsheesh. Our Conductor had paid sufficient for our whole party, but it was impossible to escape adding some presents, and still the call was for more. It was a vivid oriental experience. Tuesday we rode to Heliopolis or On. Here is an obelisk erected 1000 years before the birth of — Moses! It weighs 600 tons and extends eight feet below the ground. It was built twenty-four centuries before Christ — of Sienite granite brought from near the first cataract. Sienitic granite is the oldest rock on earth. The beetle on it was the symbol of death and the resurrection. It was from Heliopolis that Joseph married the daughter of the priest of the Sun temple. The object worshiped at Heliopolis was 498 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS The Sun; Helios-polis, the Sun city. "Joseph," said our Conductor, "saw this obelisk you are seeing now. Plato came here, Solon came here. Moses lived here as Pharaoh's grandson!" This is the oldest obelisk in Egypt, and is like the one in central Park. There is one other at Luxor, erected by order of a woman. En route we saw the Tree of the Virgin, a sycamore, under which tradition states the Virgin and child rested in their flight to Egypt. The pres- ence of this fine flowing fountain, and this being a traveler's route from Syria, make this a likely spot for the Holy Family's rest 1892 years ago; and this tree, if not the identical one that sheltered the Blessed babe, and its young mother, may have sprung from its roots. Tradition makes Mary very young, and Joseph an extremely old man. Here is a word-picture of the scene, by Mark Guy Pearse. "Now who are these that through the night Move wearily, all drearily? 'Tis Joseph forth from Bethlehem, All hastily, all eagerly! For Herod seeks the child to slay And death will come if they delay And forth, ere ever break of day They thus must flee, to Egypt flee. The mother screens him on her breast All carefully; all prayerfully; She feels him shivering in the blast All fearfully, all tearfully, And so along their way they go Now numb by night winds, as they blow, Now starting fearful of the foe, All helplessly, all homelessly." At the Museum of Antiquities, Gizeh, we saw the CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS 499 oldest wooden sculpture in the world, the village Sheik, twenty centuries before Christ ! We saw the mummy of Cheffren, a man who built the second pyramid! the first representations of dancing, of music, and of writing that exist! Saw a delineation of Leading the Deer 4000 years old; granite sarco- phagi and mummies of the Pharaoh of the Exodus, Rameses I. and Rameses II.; a mummy dating 1600 years before Christ. Later, I was favored to have a view of the new Khedive, who was riding by and bowed pleasantly. He is a young man of modest bearing. At 4:30 p. m. we took rail for Alexandria, 130 miles, which we reached at 8:20 and were trans- ferred to Hotel Abbott. Fifteen thousand English and American visitors have been to Egypt the past year; the majority, Americans. CHAPTER XXXVIII. GREECE. The time had come for us to bid adieu to Africa. At 10 A. m. rowboats conveyed us to the Behera of the Egyptian Khedivial line, a two masted steamship which was to convey us to our third Oriental Country, Greece. On it we spent Wednesday, Thursday and Friday well into the afternoon. We had a most ex- ecrable passage owing to the great commotion of the waves, some of which were estimated eighteen or nineteen feet high. My state-room was where the ship's motion was distressing. I who had borne twenty-four days on shipboard on this tour already like an old seaman, was violently ill on Thursday and could not stand upon my feet till near night. Almost the whole party succumbed to sea-sickness. It was a wild heaving sea through which our vessel labored, the billows breaking on the upper deck, and once pouring into the Reading room, and dashing even on to the Captain's look-out above. Said our Conduc- tor who had traveled everywhere in the Old world, "We are in a cockleshell of a boat on the Mediter- ranean. I don't think I have had such a shaking up, in many a long journey." The winds diminished while we were on the eastern side of rockbound 500 GREECE 501 Candia, but returned as we passed its shelter. Many of us could not safely get to our state-rooms Thursday night, and were allowed to camp in the reading room till the morrow, when the worst was over. But we sang songs and were cheery. Good reason had we to be devoutly thankful, that in such a strain of the ship's timbers and machinery, she did not fail. Friday, April 22, we saw the islands of the Archipelago and delightedly beheld the coast of ancient Greece, and the sightly heights of Lycabettus and the Acropolis. " 'Tis Greece, but living Greece no more!" Landing at the Pyraeus, the harbor town of Athens, with a population of 32,000, we proceeded by landaus five miles to Athens. The road passed the nearly dry bed of the Cephissus, an ancient olive grove, and through the heart of Athens, to our quarters in hotel de Etrangers next the Palace-square. Soon we saw this plaza alive with a multitude of well dressed citi- zens promenading and conversing. It appeared a fashionable social exchange, like the old Forum in Rome's palmy days. At last we behold the land whose people won a glorious celebrity when the world was young, — who for great ideas and heroic deeds, and sculptured forms of perfect beauty, made all nations her debtors; where Socrates and Plato reasoned, and blind Homer and violet-crowned Sap- pho sang! The mythical Heroic age of Greece is described in the Iliad of the siege of Troy, a city now identified with Hissarlik across the Egean Sea. Actual famous Greek history was from 1000 B. C. to 476 A. D. 502 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Small was the area that won such deathless fame; mountain girdled with Eta, Olympus and snowy Parnassus; but the nation was great in Ideas and Characters, like her glorious snow capt hills. Athens' early government was a democracy, — the first govern- ment "of the people, by the people, for the people." Education received great attention; males at seven were separated from home for instruction which con- tinued to the 6oth year. The bravery of her citizens was pure gold. Witness when Miltiades with 10,600 Greeks at Marathon vanquished an army fifteen times its number, or when the 300 Spartans disputed the Pass of Thermopylae with the immense army of Persian aggressors, till the last Spartan was slain! Witness again at the Bay of Salamis, when they poured Greek fire into Xerxes' immense fleet, and made it a day of black fate for him and his army of 2, 500,000 men. "A king sat on the rocky brow Which looks on seaborn Salamis, And ships by thousand lay below, And men and nations, all were his, He counted them at break of day And when the sunset, — where were they?" Byron. The Greeks were preeminent in the art of sculpture. Their works that have come down from before the Christian era, are models still. The immortal Phidias embellished the Acropolis with transcendant creations, some remains of which we shall see. In Poetry, the early Greeks take first rank among all the nations of the world. In creative imagination Homer remains GREECE 503 without a peer. Even their religion was suffused with poesy. Minerva or Pallas, the blue eyed maid, goddess of wisdom, was reckoned Athens' tutelar divinity. Venus was the goddess of female beauty, the mother of Eros or Cupid, the blind God of love. Vesta was the goddess of the Hearth, Poseidon or Neptune with his trident, was god of the sea. Apollo of the lyre the god of music; etc. Many of their myths are beautiful. No other nation has equaled the Greek in its mythology. In the field of literature and learning how numerous the Greek Immortals! Eschylus, Sophocles, Euripides in tragedy, — Plato and Aristotle, Zeno and Socrates in philosophy, — in law, Draco, Solon and Lycurgus, — in history, Her- odotus, Dyonisius of Harlicarnassus, Xenophon, Plu- tarch, Thucydides, — in oratory, Pericles, Eschines, and Demosthenes who "Shook the arsenal And fulmined over Greece, " in poetry, beside grand Homer there were Sappho, Hesiod, Pindar and Anacreon, — and in the fine arts of architecture and sculpture were the illustrious Phidias and Praxitiles, who for majesty and repose in their works have never been surpassed. Zeuxis and Apelles were famous in painting. Invincible in her golden age against her enemies, she was not proof against home-strife and jealousies, and then her decline came on, and she became the prey successively of Philip of Macedon, the Romans, the Barbarians and the Turks. Decay and desolation followed and over her settled the gloom of the dark 504 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS ages. In 1827 the great Powers of Europe interfered and in 1830 declared Greece an independent state. Since 1836, George the Second, son of the King of Denmark, brother to the Empress of Russia, and to the Princess of Wales, prospective Queen of Eng- land, — has been king of Greece, and an era of pros- perity has set in. We are in Athens, classic Athens! in her palmy days "the eye of Greece, mother of Arts and Elo- quence and native to famous wits." She then num- bered from 120 000 to 200,000 inhabitants. After her political fall she sank to a country town of 300 houses. What is she now? With adjoining villages she numbers 85,000. "Doctor, what is the cause of her recent extraordinary growth?" was my query. "Freedom," was the answer. She is also the seat of government, and her ancient prestige, and natural beauty make her an attractive center of modern culture. Let us look about us. On the N. E. lies Mount Pentelicus, from whose celebrated and exhaustless quarries came the marble for the Acropolis. East- ward and S. E. is Mount Hymettus, celebrated for its honey. On the south lie the Acropolis, a cliff two hundred feet high, Phillopappus, and the Saronic Gulf beyond. Westward rise the mountains of Daphne, through whose pass is the highway to ancient Eleusis, over which road came the famous great processions from the Temple of Eleusinian Mysteries through Athens' old gate to the Parthenon. In the near N. E. is conspicuous lofty Mt. Lycabettus, X c re fin < O D- C 5-i O <: GREECE 505 984 feet high with water works on its cone. Athens is intersected by two principal streets at right angles, Hermes, from the Palace square westward to the R. R. station, and the church of Agia Triada; the other street is Eolus from the Tower of the winds, extend- ing northward. Tortuous lanes diverge from the main street. Many of her buildings are new, — of white marble, — and in the absence of factories and their smoke, retain their beautiful whiteness. In our first ramble — crossing the stream of the Ilyssus now nearly dry, we visited the Ancient Stadium. This Amphitheater, the oldest in the world, — lying east of the Exhibition Building, is 650 feet long and 106 feet wide. It was used in the times of Lycurgus, and Hadrian for races. It had accommodations for 35,000 people. The Lypodium was in Lycurgus*' time at the east end. Large as is this space includ- ing the bridge, which dates from Hadrian, it is a little less than St. Peter's at Rome. Marble seats were provided for it in 140 A. D. by Herodes Atticus. In the S. E. corner is a secret passage through the rocks. The Temple of Zeus or Jupiter Olympus, stands a majestic ruin on the Attic plain. Begun B. C. 530, there remain sixteen immense Corinthian columns, each 7 1-4 feet in diameter and 64 feet in height; of the original 120 columns of this once most magnifi- cent structure. It was originally 380 feet long by 184 feet wide, and excepting that wonder of the world, the temple of Diana at Ephesus, was the largest Greek temple ever erected. It was the center of the Greek mythological religion, as Jerusalem was 500 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS of the Jewish, Mecca of the Mohammedan, or the Vatican of the Romish faiths. In the middle ages a hermit constructed his airy cell on the summit of two of these lofty columns, — a very spirit of the air was he. Near by stands the stately gate and Arch of Hadrian, 59 by 44 feet forming the west entrance to the Temple and distinguishing most ancient Athens from that part built by Hadrian. On the west side of the gate is inscribed, "This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus," who was 1600 years before Christ. On the east of the gate "This is the city of Hadrian not of Theseus." Hadrian, the Roman Emperor, lived in the second century, after Christ; was enthu- siastic in his admiration for Athens and greatly im- proved and embellished it. Proceeding toward the imposing Acropolis, we pass the Monument of Lys-ic-rates, commonly called the Lantern of Diogenes. It is a small marble temple in honor of Lysicrates who won a competitive prize. Within it Byron once spent a night. We next enter the Theater of Dionysus or Bacchus. Many rows of seats were unearthed in 1S62. The lowest tier is of marble for priests. It was divided into thirteen sec- tions, one for each of the thirteen tribes. There are very fine reliefs and stooping Sileni for the Stage. Here the dramas of Eschylus, Sophocles and Eurip- ides were enacted. There were accommodations for 30,000 spectators. Further on we saw The Odeon of Herod Atticus, erected by him 140 B. C. in honor of his wife Regilla. A benediction on him for this appreciation of a woman; that woman his wife! It GREECE 507 had a cedar roof and would hold 6000 spectators. Opposite the Acropolis is a hill on which is the mon- ument to Antiochus Philloppapus. On another hill we entered the Prison of Socrates, hewn in solid rock. Here behind iron bars are two chambers, one opening into a rotunda constructed probably for a treasure- house. Here the great philosopher, Socrates, one of the wisest, bravest, most unselfish of men, (born 469 B. C.) died, having said with prophetic intuition, "They will yet honor me!" The Muse of history has been more just than his contemporaries. We now ascended The Pynx, a rock height where the Athen- ians held political meetings, and listened no doubt to the stirring eloquence of Demosthenes; he who used to practise speaking with pebbles in his mouth that he might improve his elocution; he also shaved half his head that he might be forced to remain indoors and learn his orations! On a commanding eminence, though much below the Acropolis, is the majestic, well preserved TEMPLE OF THESEUS. Under it lie the remains of the traditional hero- king. It is older than the Parthenon and was proba- bly erected 470 years before Christ; it is 1 1 1 feet long by 48 feet wide, with six columns at each end and thirteen on each side. On elaborate friezes are depicted the exploits of Theseus. The Temple is a very sightly, stately, architectural ruin. The center and culmination of interest at Athens is the Areopagus or Hill of Mars, and the Acropolis. 508 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS TI^E AREOPAGUS was the Athenian House of Assembly. It is a bold and rugged mass of jrock ascended by sixteen irregular and difficult steps, where the highest Athenian tribu- nal held its nocturnal sessions. It terminates on the north in an abrupt precipice; the city on the plain lying below. This rocky steep was the scene of Eschylus' tragedy of Eumenides. Here Paul preached. Separated from Mars' hill by a narrow valley rises the grand and lofty height of THE ACROPOLIS. This ancient rock-citadel is 500 feet above sea level, 360 yards long by 180 yards wide. The aborig- inal inhabitants of Attica, the Pelasgi, leveled its summit, making a plateau; and rendered its sides more precipitous. It became the castle residence of the ancient kings of Athens. After a time, the castle remained sacred to the gods. The Pisistrat- idse, who encouraged Art, built there a temple of vast dimensions and erected a magnificent entrance. Both were destroyed by the Persians. To Pericles in 448 — 432 B. C. aided by the masterly genius of Phidias, and the most eminent artists of their time, are due the restoration of the temples of the gods and the erection of those other buildings which have been the enduring monuments of the glory of Greece. The buildings which now adorn the Acropolis are the Ionic Temple of Athenae Nike, or unwinged Victory, (Victory which would never takes its flight from the Athenians) — the Propylsea, — the Parthenon which GREECE 509 is the ideal of elegance and majesty, — the richly sculptured Erictheum whose portico is called the Hall of the Caryatides. Further east is the Museum con- taining sculptures found on the Acropolis. On ascending, our first visit was to the Temple of unwinged Victory. It commands a splendid view. Here on this startling verge looked eagerly the old king Egeus when his son the valiant Theseus returned from a dangerous expedition. If returning safely white sails were to be raised. Theseus had forgotten to raise the symbol of victory, and the ship appeared with black canvas. In despairing anguish, the royal parent threw himself over the rock and perished. The Propylsea is a vast arched entrance gateway with unequal wings. Its workmanship of Doric and Ionic columns, statues and reliefs was perfect. Be- yond to the right as you enter, rise the glorious Par- thenon; the Erictheum and smaller shrines to the left. The Parthenon crowns the Acropolis at its N. E. angle, the bases of her 46 Doric columns being nearly on a level with the summit of the Propylsea. It was of beautiful, white Pentelic marble, 228 feet long by iot broad. The Parthenon had magnificent sculptured decoration brilliantly colored and gilded. Within it stood the gold and ivory statue of Athenge Parthenos, 47 feet in height and sculptured with con- summate art by Phidias himself. The Caryatides were sculptured female figures supporting the entab- lature of the Portico. Beneath this hall of the marble maidens, Cecrops, the legendary second king of Attica is said to have been buried near the time of 510 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Abraham. Part of the extreme east end of the citadel wall dates back to the time of the Persians and the Moslem. This day of my first pilgrimage to the Acropolis memory marks with a white stone. In a subsequent drive, we passed from the Hill of the Muses, to Dr. Schlieman's beautiful and spacious white marble mansion, inscribed with words signify- ing Ilion honey or Trojan sweetness. The fortune which rewarded the Dr. 's researches in Archaeology built this home, and now that he is deceased, his family are investing in the erection of buildings in Athens, thus showing their confidence in the growing future of the classic city. The treasure trove found in his discoveries we saw in the Museum. There were most interesting objects, such as the earliest form of lamp, earliest sculpture, curios 3,500 years old; in burial 3000 years ago the body was laid on pebbles, and provided with vessels for food and drink! In the National Museum we saw the marble replica of the exquisite statue of Athense Parthenos wrought by Phidias for the Parthenon. It was of ivory with a removable mantle of gold, 47 feet in height. The goddess is represented as standing, a helmet on her head, a spear in her right hand, her left extended; her shield rests by her side, a snake entwined about the shield. We were favored with a view of the interior of the elegant Pentelic-marble lecture-hall; the University where are 1500 students; the Poly- technic School, the Colonus, the scene of the iEdipus of Sophocles, — and the Academy of Plato surrounded by leafy and embowering shade. We GREECE 511 found the Ancient Market place which once extended to the Theseus and the Areopagus, and was then adorned with magnificent halls, statues and temples, all now like the Roman forum, a ruin and desolation. It was many feet below the present level of the city. Four Doric columns of the old market-gate remain to hint the vanished splendor of long past ages. Near the Market-pk.ce stands the Tower of the Winds, erected ioo B. C. It is north of Mars' Hill, — octag- onal, — each side with reliefs of the various winds, Boreas, Zephyrus, Notus, etc. The Royal palace is a handsome white marble structure erected 1834-8, having a garden in front, and an extensive garden and grove in the rear. Palace- square, much thronged at four o'clock with gentle- men promenaders, fronts the palace grounds, and also our pleasant hotel-des Etrangers and its Annex, from whose window I feast my eyes with views of the matchless Acropolis. Sunday, April 24. At the great Cathedral, a large handsome edifice, we saw priests in embroidered vest- ments of purple and gold, candles lit, and gold Throne-chair probably for the king of Greece; the kissing of images; and heard responsive choirs, the singing of boys, and a splendid solo by a full rich baritone voice that easily filled the massive church. To one delighting in the divine gift of song, the music was a very attractive feature. Thence we went to the new Russian church, again hearing a fine choir. These Greeks excel in music. Of course all these services were in the Greek tongue. The Eng- 512 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS lish Episcopal church lay to the south. Seeking the American Chapel we were courteously escorted by a Greek priest — after a long yet interesting walk — to the American Institute of Archaeology, where we found a large and pleasant building provided for graduates of American Colleges prosecuting Archaeological re- searches. Later on, we enjoyed a profitable interview with Dr. Kalopothakes and his daughter of the American chapel. He is a native Greek who studied theology at Union Theological Sem. N. Y-. and mar- ried an American lady. He with his preacher from Pyraeus related their recent persecution for the Truth's sake at Pyraeus where they were stoned and their church despoiled. Government and fashionable influence are favorable to a religion of formalism; a religion of simple forms and spiritual power has many obstacles. Dr. K. conducts a regular Sabbath service in a gospel chapel near Hadrian's Arch, Athens. Rome! Athens! Jerusalem! I know no other cities in the wide world with such antiquity, and such in- teresting associations of nature, art, and history. Beside Athens' noble citadel rock, she has a circle of romantic hills and mountains, each fitted to hold a monument, or bear a tradition, as they now do. The ancient Greeks were a most imaginative, poetic people, as their literature attests, and the instinct to elo- quence appears to be in their blood, for their )'outh now take to oratory. Their sense of perfect beauty appears in their statuary, still the finest model of Art. No wonder Aristophanes apostrophized with enthu- siasm,— "O thou our Athens, violet wreathed, brilliant, GREECE 5l£ most enviable city!" We were in all the countries of the Levant — Egypt, Palestine, Greece, — in the time of roses, the charming month of flowers. Nature was in her happiest, most hopeful mood, and helped us to bear away only sunny memories. We organized a special excursion to ELEUSIS, 17 miles by carriage. We passed Agia Triada recently opened up by the Archaeological research. Here was the very ancient Uipilon or Double Gate, dating probably from the time of Pericles; the prin- cipal entrance to ancient Athens. Through it came the Panathenaean procession from Eleusis to the Acropolis. In accordance with ancient custom, the dead were buried outside the city wall, and here are very interesting monuments unearthed of vast an- tiquity at the graves of the departed. One represents the deceased as sitting in Charon's boat, another the elegant tombstone of Lysanius. The ground at Agia Trias was much lower than present levels and had heavy fortifications. Philip of Macedon forced his way through this gate 200 years before Christ. Continuing, our route lay by the Botanical Garden, the olive grove, birthplace of Miltiades, and ascen- ded the Pass of Daphne. We halted at the Daphne Monastery founded in the thirteenth century on the site of — a temple to Apollo! Soon the silver Bays of Eleusis and Salamis gleamed before us. We wound a semi-circle round the Eleusis Bay to yon poor village which was once the second city of Attica. 514 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Now alighting we sought the remnant of the great and celebrated Temple of mysteries. All ruins, utterly prostrate ! leveled by War and the devastating hand of Time; but by the immense foundations we perceive it was a vast structure. It was built on a side hill above a fountain in honor of the goddess Demeter and her daughter Persephone, who doubt- less personified certain great events in the wonderful kingdom of Nature. The original temple was de- stroyed by the Persians; the later structure, begun under Pericles, and added to by the Romans, was destroyed by the Goths in 369 A. D. Up to this time the worship of the goddess had been continued in all its splendor. From the site of the Eleusinian mysteries we saw southward the island where Zerxes sat, on the deci- sive battle day which began for him with so much hope, and ended with so much shame; a day of black fate to Persia — of victory to Greece. How beautiful as we gazed were the quiet waters! The glassy bay, the infolding mountains were the same, but the scene how changed ! No proudly sailing fleet, no blare of trumpet and shock of arms, no tinging the wave with blood, no flying nor pursuing foe, no priestly ceremony, no Temple; only caverns and a rock-heaped plain with a cliffbound plateau above, and a silent, lonely bay below! and every- where, a plain or mountain range, whose ruins were more sadly eloquent than speech! In the streets of Athens are some antiquities which are novelties; the ancient style of costume still worn GREECE 515 by the Albanians It consists of fez with long blue tassel, a bright colored jacket with open sleeves richly embroidered, over a shirt with flowing sleeves, a belt with pouch, a short white dress which reminds a frequenter of Italian opera of a ballet girl, short breeches, and pointed red shoes. The Albanian peasant women wear a long embroidered petticoat with short woolen dress above it. As to drinking customs, mastecha, a distilled spirit is made from the mastich berry. Modern civilization, or such imperfect specimens of it as they have come into relations with, seems to have rendered them less amiable and reliable than those who have grown up in Greece apart from foreigners. Evidently as in Jerusalem they need to see true Christianity lived amongst them. There is no argument like a holy, loving life. — It was a pleasure on taking up a Greek paper and reading it aloud to an educated Greek resident, to find that the pronunciation acquired when at my Alma Mater was the same as the Greek spoken to-day in Athens. Unlike the practice of many colleges, we were taught modern Greek, an advantage on Grecian soil, as thereby one can keep step with the living world. Charmed with Greece, — after a last solitary ram- ble, drinking in my fill of the beautiful landscape from the Temple of Theseus, we took rail westward, winding on the verge of the Bay of Salamis, where the peaceful water was "deeply, darkly, beautifully blue," alternating with purple and green. The pict- uresque windings of the carnage road below us and 516 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS the mountains green with pines above us, made a very lovely scene. Soon we reached Corinth once a rich and beautiful city, eminent for its painting, sculpture and pottery, and the scene of the ministry of Paul and Apollos. It lies on the isthmus which joins the Peloponnesus to the mainland, and in the olden time galleys were drawn on trucks through it from sea to sea. It became a great and luxurious capital but is now a small dilapidated village, backed by a high rocky citadel. At our right lay the gulf of Lepanto, skirted by most thrifty olive groves. Beyond the shining, smiling water lay a mountain range to the northeastern horizon, whose snowy peak is glorious Parnassus, once sacred to the worship of Apollo, the Muses and the nymphs. The Castalian fount and Delphic oracle were in the clefts of its wooded sides. Wilder grows our way among inweaving mountains and romantic defiles, and rapid streams. Along this gulf-shore is extensively cultivated the vine that bears the current of commerce. At twilight, after an afternoon's ride of great interest through a classic region, we reach Patras, on the Gulf of Patras; and after dining pro- ceed to row-boats which convey us from the land of the Ancients to our Egyptian steamer, The Pachino, which will transport us to Italy. The water lies without a ripple. Our boat is filled with our party, soon to separate and probably meet no more till the last earthly pilgrimage is over. The native Greeks surround the shore; in the distance lies the Pachino "as idle as a painted ship upon a GREECE 517 painted ocean." Now as we row, we sing together for the last time "Nearer my God to Thee," "The Sweet By and By," "Sing them over again to me." Among the sweet memories are the times when our voices have blended in the songs of Zion. "Nature drops down her curtain, pinning it with a star." In the darkness we pass Missolonghi, where proud passionate Byron lies interred. Next day I find pleasant Educationists aboard. Miss A. of Dakota College, and Prest. Frost of Berea College, Ky. ; also Dr. who was the first lady to graduate in Medicine in the University of Zurich. We are on the Ionian Sea, whose glassy bosom is waveless this perfect day. Coast rocks lift fantastic forms swathed in purple haze. Beyond them Greek Albania lies. Of all fair days and pleasant sailings this is the climax. "At peace we lie Blows softly by A cloud upon this liquid sky. The day so mild Is heaven's own child With earth and ocean reconciled." and we might add, as when drifting on the beauteous Bay of Naples, "With dreamful eyes My spirit lies Under the walls of Paradise!" We are now approaching the picturesque island of Corfu whose outlines are bold and romantic, whose gardens are most productive. It has a considerable business and population, and affords most charming 518 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS views for artists. We visit this island rambling for two hours, along busy streets, and at the well filled market we luxuriate on fresh strawberries which this semi-tropical climate has fully ripened this 27th of April; we inspect the church of San Spirida, the church of the Holy Virgin for strangers and by special courtesy are shown the interior of the Royal Palace of the King of Greece, — his salon, grand Hall, and reception room for Ministers. This is the last day in which all our Palestine party are together, and on this lovely island of the tranquil Ionian Sea, we take our last look at the rockbound coast of classic Greece, and bid a tender farewell to the Levant. CHAPTER XXXIX. IN THE ITALIAN CITIES, PARIS, AND THE NETHERLANDS, "Knowst thou the land where the lemon trees bloom, — Where the gold orange glows in the green thickets gloom? Where the wind ever soft from the blue heavens blows, And the groves are of myrtle and orange and rose?" From the holy hills of Palestine, the antiquities of Egypt, and the classic associations of Greece, we came to the world-famous region of song and story, ITALIA. Brindisi, where we land, is a considerable and grow- ing town, whence depart the Mails for India and the Levant. Here ended the old Roman road, the Appian way, constructed before the christian era. Here too, Virgil died, whose tomb I saw at Naples. En route to la bella Napoli we had a halcyon day of travel, now beside groves of the olive and fig, vineyards where tree was linked to tree by the festooning vine, anon by fields where peasants were at work, mead- ows that were rich masses of red and yellow, with bits of exquisite scenery of picturesque Appennine and lovely green dell, and quaint Italian village. At eventide we rode through the sinuous streets of pop- ulous Naples to our hotel on the Chiaja, 519 520 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS The rare privilege of a second "conducted" visit to the chief Italian cities was now mine. Not two years had elapsed since I first basked beneath the azure of Italy, yielding to the magic spell of its famous historic sites, its antiquities, its priceless art treasures, its varied scenic charms. The supreme and overpowering sensations which attend a first visit to a long anticipated shrine come but once, and in their surprise-power can never be renewed. Yet a second visit, though lacking the nimbus of enthusi- asm is especially valuable to correct misimpressions, and render durable the recollection. Always look twice — says the Rev. E. E. Hale, at what you wish to remember. NAPLES contests with Constantinople the honor of having the most magnificent site in Europe. Its background is a superb amphitheatre of volcanic mountains, Pizzo- falcone, St. Elmo, Capodimonte, Somma and Vesu- vius. The fortress of St. Elmo looks down from a height of 876 feet on the city of nearly a half million people, on an exceedingly beautiful bay, and the graceful outlines of the isle of Capri. In latitude, Naples is about the same as Burlington Iowa, 40''; 6o'"; but the mildness of its climate suggests the semi- tropics, and its urban characteristics are piquantly and deliciously Italian. What other city has so many attractive environs, — Posillipo and its grotto, the Tomb of Virgil, the drained Lake of Anagno over an extinct crater, the sulphurous grottoes, the islet IN THE ITALIAN CITIES 521 of Nisida, and in the distance (six miles from Naples) Pozzuoli, where Paul spent a week; and the patron of fine arts, Hadrian was buried; — Vesuvius, Hercu- laneum, Pompeii, Castelmare, Sorrento, and Capri, and the smiling Bay inviting to a sail. These excursions I had found most stimulating and enjoyable, in my first visit, and now repaired for re- newed inspection to the Pompeiian Museum and Pompeii itself. It was buried in 79 A. D. under twenty feet of ashes from Vesuvius, and 2,000 citizens lost their lives. Herculaneum was at the same time destroyed, a still larger and more splendid city. Pompeii lay within a mile of the foot of the outer cone of Vesuvius. The excavations of the present century are wonderfully interesting as revealing the life of eighteen centuries ago. The edifices were constructed of volcanic tufa or brick, the latter covered with a coat of stucco. The streets are paved with large blocks and hard basaltic lava, in which are the ruts worn by vehicles of ancient times. There are crossing blocks for pedestrians, tying holes for beasts; fountains at the corners. In private residences and temples highly decorative Mural paintings abound. In the villa of Diomedes, seventeen skeletons of the unfortunate victims of the volcanic eruption were found. Doubtless many of the 25,000 inhabitants succeeded in making their escape. Again I am amongst the marvelous monuments of the Eternal city, rome! Stupendous in ruins! There pass before me in 522 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS review the gigantic Colosseum of Vespasian, at whose inauguration ten thousand men were slain, and 87,000 spectators could look on the gladiatorial combats, — the triumphal arch of Constantine, built in the fourth century and unburied in the nineteenth! still a model of beauty, — Palatine hill with the melancholy ruins of the palaces of the Caesars, — the Roman Forum once the center of the splendors of classic Rome, where discoursed the rulers of the world, — now a desolation with a few marble columns emphasizing its utter wreck, — the Capital Hill still with its palaces, Tarpeian rock, and Ara Coeli, — the Mamertine prison where tradition reveals the pillar to which St. Peter was chained. Again I ride along the Appian way trodden by St. Paul, a road hundreds of years old when he was born. By torch and taper guided I thread the mazes of the Catacombs, — and linger in the sumptuously beautiful interior of St. Paul's church, which anew illustrates the maxim, "the martyr of yesterday, is the hero of to-day;" in the ancient basilica of St. John in Lateran, I mark where for centuries was celebrated the pompous coronation of the popes; hard by is Pilate's staircase brought from Jerusalem from his palace which I had viewed there on the Via Dolorosa; in San Pietro in Vincoli, I note the imposing Moses of Michael Angelo; in St. Cecilia's church I behold where the gentle saint was inhumanly stabbed; once more I stand within the huge Pantheon whose unrivalled dome was earlier than the christian era, and was restored by Severus; where Raphael prince of artists, and Victor Emanuel, IN THE ITALIAN CITIES 523 king of men, alike have returned to dust; and I muse on the fleeting glory of earth, so much sought, so seldom attained; and the immortality of Character and Influence, so little esteemed by men, yet so priceless and, happily within the reach of all! The scene changes. In magnificent St. Peter's I am listening to the exquisite music of that wondrous choir, and gazing up that glorious dome which rises 308 feet above the roof; anon ascending the stair- ways of the papal palace, in the Sistine chapel I am tracing the masterly thoughts of him who was alike great in architecture, sculpture, painting; now in Raphael's Stanze, I stand admiring the noble work of him who excelled in the conception and delineation of beauty, as M. Angelo excelled in the elements of majesty and strength. O day of days all too short among the superb masterpieces of painting and sculp- ture in the priceless Vatican collection! — First and last, I staid ten days in Rome, a Paradise of oppor- tunity, yet too short for a student, and lover of beauty and art. Then came visits to the "lily of the Arno," Florence, — to Venice "throned on her hundred isles," — to Milan; followed by a rapid flight through Switzerland, where it was too early for summer touring, but whose shifting landscapes, — such as the pass of St. Gothard by loop and tunnel, the mount- ains hoar and fleecy with their snowy vesture, lake, crag, chalet, emerald dell and quaint Alpine village — held our eyes enchanted. Early in May we arrived in the gay French Capital, where taking leave of my pleasant companions in Oriental travel who were 524 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS now about to return to America, I settled down for a five weeks sojourn in PARIS, FRANCE. My hostess was a cultured St. Petersburg lady, who spoke fluently four languages; my abode was a sunny sky-parlor on Faubourg St. Honore, overlook- ing Madame Rothschild's roses and greenery, where was formerly the residence of Balzac, the popular French novelist. From this center I made daily excursions to art-galleries, monuments, parks, palaces, churches, cemeteries, public buildings, and along famous streets and boulevards, or to the envir- ons; and notwithstanding that my limited acquaint- ance with French was less available for speaking than for reading, every expedition was carried successfully through. Still it must be confessed that an inability to interview your fellow traveler is a great barrier, — especially to an investigating Yankee. One of many interesting trips was to Montmartre Cemetery, and the church of Sacre Cceur which crowns Montmartre Heights. Both are in the north part of Paris. Montmartre is from Monsmartis, mountain of Mars, so-called because in the Roman period a temple of Mars was on this commanding hill. The cemetery is traversed by beautiful avenues deeply shaded by tall umbrageous trees. Hill and valley alternate. Here are seemingly countless chambers, and monuments of the dead; many costly and elaborate. At the tomb of Henri Heine and his wife was a white marble shaft surmounted with an PARIS AND TH£ NETHERLANDS 525 urn, and decorated with many recent wreaths, though the gifted poet passed away in 1856. "Dead he is not, — but departed, — for the artist never dies." Here too is the tomb of Theophilus Gautier, an eminent author of 181 1 to 1872, one of Heine's inti- mate contemporaries which included also Balzac, George Sand, Dumas the elder and Victor Hugo. I noted the tombs of the famous Dutch painter, Ary Scheffer who died in 1858, — of the Polish volunteer Kamienski, who fell at Magenta in 1859, whose mon- ument is pronounced the finest in the cemetery; of Roger the architect of the Ville of Paris; of Gen. Cavaignac; an obelisk of the Dutchess de Montmor- ency is the most conspicuous in the grounds. Thence by a long winding series of streets, I gained the sightly summit of Montmartre, where Loyola founded the order of the Jesuits; where the Communists erected fortifications after the evacuation of the Prus- sians in 1 871; where is being built avast and elegant marble church of the Sacred Heart. In the old chapel contiguous were lights burning and quiet wor- ship going on. It was just before sunset, and I had a superb view of the vast city of Paris from the Heights of Montmartre. MONT PARNASSE CEMETERY is the chief cemetery lying south of the Seine. Taking a tram at the Arch of Triumph, I crossed Pont Alma, saw the great gilded dome of the Inva- lides over Bonaparte's tomb on my left, passed Francis Xavier's large church, an institution for sick 526 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS children, and the Gare for westbound trains; en route saw girls arrayed in pure white for confirma- tion, a ceremony which takes place at the age of twelve. These young creatures look as dainty as possible in their filmy white robes, and white kid slippers. Dress display is engrafted on their young minds even in making a profession of religion, and it is a fair question, — does it not overshadow the import- ant religious act in their estimation? Another pageant by the way was a long procession of mounted soldiers wearing yellow metal-helmets. Inquiring my way when the tram stopped finally, a short walk "a goshe" and "a droit" brought me to Mont Parnasse gateway. The name does not refer to the natural features of the site, for it is level, but to the custom of youths of the Latin quarter who walked this street, to spout poetry and eloquence, whence in playful allusion, Mont Parnasse! Most of the monuments are built in the shape of a small house or mausoleum. The name of the family owning it is inscribed thereon. Many are adorned with bouquets, and housepots of blooming plants. One much resem- bled a living- room. Behind the glass door was seen a carpeted floor, a shelf covered with an embroidered cloth and lace, on which were the open photographs of the departed. Houseplants decorated the floor. Among inscriptions were "Sacerdos ineternum," — "a ma mere, a ma belle mere," — "a notre amie," — "monepouse" — another, "Regrets;" several, "Eternal Regrets;" "A notre mere cheris," — another, "Hie quiescent in Christo;" several "De prof undis" (out of PARIS AND THE NETHERLANDS 527 the depths). Several were Hebrew tombs. Near by is the Luxembourg palace with extensive and charming gardens. Some of the many rambles of this golden outing in Paris in the perfect months of May and June are detailed in the chapters, Pen pictures, and Etchings of Paris. When the glowing sun kindled his mid- summer fires, like other birds of passage I flitted northward. Kingdom of the Netherlands, June 13th. Exit Paris! Enter AMSTERDAM 1 To-day I breakfasted in France, lunched in Belgium, supped in Holland! It was my first experience in traveling alone, where foreign languages were spoken. There was also change of currencies; for this I was prepared. Twice I underwent Custom house exami- nation, on the Belgium and on the Holland frontiers. It was a little perplexing to see a stranger walking off with your choicest belongings, you meanwhile locked up in the station with the other passengers till the custom house examination was concluded, but the stranger was only an honest porter taking my satchels to my compartment on the train, and all came out well. The presence of porters, ready to carry luggage for a small hire at railroad stations in Europe, is a vast convenience to a woman. Honesty seemed the rule in Europe; I encountered no thievery, nor unjust taking of advantage, aside from the de- mand for pourboire, which is an established old coun- 528 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS try custom. Longer experience might have been less favorable. When in the cool morning I had taken the train, the heights of Montmartre were the last to greet my vision. Then we crossed the line of fortified out- works, and beautiful Paris was left behind. What a change since I passed that way in March; now the grain was fully grown, waving in emerald billows with every breeze. Haying had begun. The land lay level most of the long day's journey, and but twice we passed through tunnels. At St. Quentin I saw a fourteenth century church; at Mons the Cathedral of St. Waudru, and the Belfry built by Spaniards in 1662. At Quevy we had crossed the Belgian frontier. We were now in the most densely populated country of Europe, averaging 461 inhabi- tants to the square mile. Agriculture is a chief in- dustry, the land is very carefully cultivated and yields well. Belgium has coal and other minerals which furnish many with employment. Manufactures too are an important branch of industry. The Royal Academy of Fine Arts at Antwerp has had over 1,600 scholars in a single year. It affords gratuitous in- struction as does the Musical Conservatory at Brus- sels. Here we changed cars, the only change from Paris to Amsterdam. At Mechlin we saw a city of 40,000 inhabitants, famous for its lace and as the ecclesiastical capitol ; Cathedral St. Rombold whose huge tower rises 320 feet in air. Crossing the muddy but important Scheldt which brings extensive shipping and commerce to Antwerp, Dutch became the con- PARIS AND THE NETHERLANDS 529 versational medium and Dikes and windmills a con- spicuous landscape feature. HOLLAND is flat and marshy; has multitudes of fine cattle, a cow it is said to each of her inhabitants. Meadows were white with daisies; men and women were out at work in the fields. Great has been the nation's struggle with the Sea, necessitating the building of 1,550 miles of dikes which have cost it sixty-two and one-half million dollars. Long and distressing was its conflict with Catholic Spain, but it splendidly main- tained itself the bulwark of early Protestantism and ad- vanced Republican ideas. Indeed England and the American Colonies have owed to Holland a debt, seldom realizedor acknowledged for her formative influ- ence on their religious and governmental institutions. How much England owed to the Netherland weavers and to her Hollanders who taught the English skill in industrial arts I How much to Holbein and Vandyck for the impulse to the divine art of Painting! How much to Erasmus and a Kempis in breaking the sway of Superstition and inspiring true Religion ! How much does the American Republic owe to the fact that the Pilgrim fathers had enjoyed twelve years of free re- ligious toleration, and observation of the advanced political ideas and methods of the Netherlands before landing on Plymouth Rock! In the Dutch character we find love of liberty, courage, enterprise, industry, thrift, uprightness. All I saw of the Hollanders in visiting their great 530 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS city of the Amstel, Amsterdam, Hague their Capital city, Scheveningen and Rotterdam inspired my cordial respect and admiration, The day's travel from Paris was charming, my chance companions, agreeable, and at night I rested at Hotel Suisse, Amsterdam. AMSTERDAM has been styled the Dutch Venice. Built on an arm of the Zuyder Zee, it is the shape of a half moon, intersected by four principal parallel canals, and many subordinate ones forming about 90 islands and crossed by 300 bridges. The houses are built on piles driven down 40 or 50 feet till they rest in firm clay. The vista of one of these principal waterways with houses on either side with handsome and unique architectural fronts is a pleasing picture. Amsterdam has 380,000 inhabitants. Among interesting objects I traversed the Royal Palace, very rich with marble sculptures. It is built on more than 13,000 piles. One fresco was so per- fect as to deceive a connoisseur. The palace-chimes play tunes sweetly. The little pleasant-faced Queen is Wilhelmina, thirteen years old, whose mother Emma is Regent. The Ryks Museum of Painting has a very rich ex- hibition of Dutch art from such masters as Rem- brandt, Gerard Dou, Teniers, Maas, Paul Potter and others. The Nieuve Kirche, the Alte Kirche, Zoolog- ical and Botanical Gardens are specially interesting. One of the most delightful places in Europe I found PARIS AND THE NETHERLANDS 531 the Hague, the capital city of 100,000 inhabitants with its characteristic quiet Dutch scenery, its historic sites, Royal palace, and magnificent museum of Dutch Art. It is a charming ride by train to Scheveningen, a fishing village and fashionable seaside resort by the North Sea. Thence my route lay beside Leyden, the Academic town which gave birth to Rembrandt, Jan Steen and Gerard Dou, — Delft, from which the Pilgrim Fathers sailed to Plymouth Rock, — and terminated at Rotterdam, the city of the learned and acute Erasmus, whose statue in the Groote Market and birthplace I was glad to inspect, also the Groote Kerk with its monuments to famous admirals, a mas- sive church several hundred years old. Rotterdam on the Maas has an extensive commerce and a most business aspect. Thence I bade a second farewell to Continental Europe, and via the North Sea and Harwich was soon again in London. CHAPTER XL. LAST WEEKS IN ENGLAND, AND AN IRISH TOUR. "My days have been of gold My nights of silver." — God is good! "O precious twelvemonth all too swiftly sped!" All England in Shakespeare's time was not more populous, it is said, than London with its suburbs to-day. Considered in its relation to ginhouses and drunkenness, it is a great Babylon or Vanity Fair; but when we view its blessed recent philanthropies we rejoice in a School of Christ, a Brotherhood of noble christian workers. To former visits in London I now added two weeks. What I saw therein I have anticipated under the heads of Preachers, Charities, and London Sights, and a visit to the House of Com- mons. Temperance, missionary, religious and phil- anthropic meetings were under full swing, and beside attending these, I had the entree to some pleasant homes. A charming excursion was to CANTERBURY, 55 miles S. E., a quaint cathedral-town of Kent, on the site of the old Roman Duro-vernum, which was on the military road known as Watling street. Beside its extreme antiquity, it is associated with 532 LAST IVEEKS IN ENGLAND, AND AN IRISH TOUR 533 the missionary Augustine who came from Rome in 597 A. D., who was instrumental in converting King Ethelbert, and founded a monastery here. This Augustine is not to be confounded with Monica's Son born in Africa, and afterward one of the four great fathers of the Latin church. The Augustine who came to Canterbury became the head of a line of arch- bishops, but was 200 years later than the celebrated writer and disputant of Pelagius. Canterbury, a city of 21,000 is interesting from its remains of old styles of architecture, and especially its majestic and glorious old Cathedral which dates from 1070 to 1495. The choir from 11 74 to 11 80. The central tower Bell Harry was added in 1475. The length of the structure is 514 feet, its Bell Harry tower is 235 feet high, and the east end and high altar is twenty-five feet above the Nave. The Archbishop's Throne was shown. After the Queen he ranks third of the highest dignita- ries of England, and the superior rank of Canterbury's archbishop to the archbishop of York is conceded. In the triforium is concealed the organ, only the manuals being visible. The once venerated shrine of St. Thomas a Becket was near the east end. Destroyed by order of Henry VIII, the site is shown and the old mosaic near it. Here too is the tomb of the son of Edward III., the Black Prince, who died in 1376; also his shirt of mail, gauntlets, hel- met and shield. I had the pleasure of sitting in St. Augustine's huge chair, in which the archbishops sit at their installation. In the crypt was shown the spot where Becket fell at his assassination. The 534 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS cathedral precincts are very beautiful. The enjoy- ment of a visit here was greatly enhanced by being most hospitably received by an inteiesting family. Col. H. was an old army officer and Engineer formerly of the East India Service, and in his delight- ful christian home, nestled in shrubbery with a green- house of exquisite flowers, I met my great-nieces who are here for education from their missionary home in the isle of Ceylon. AT ROCHESTER, on the Medway I explored the ivy-hung keep (104 feet high) of its powerful Norman castle, and its Cathedral, both buildings dating from the twelfth century. The latter resembles in plan the Canter- bury cathedral, though less vast and magnificent. In it is a tablet to Charles Dickens whose home at Gads Hill is near by. He described Rochester as "the ancient and drowsy city of Cloisterham." England is charming in early midsummer. It is row the per- fection of the year. Vegetation is fresh and luxu- riant. Everywhere pleasant rural pictures delight the eye. Two more weeks in London brimful of meetings and sight-seeing, have flown by. July 1st. Purposing a week's tour in Ireland, and having engaged passage to America for July 7th from Queenstown by the favorite ocean steamship, the "City of Chicago," I am now crossing .St. George's channel from Holyhead to Dublin, (69 m.) Since embarking a dense fog has enveloped us, impenetra- ble a few feet from the ferry boat. All the officers LAST WEEKS IN ENGLAND, AND AN IRISH TOUR 535 stand intently watching. Suddenly the guard at the bows announces a ship right ahead! In the same instant the engines are reversed, as a steam ferry from Dublin hove in sight crossing our track directly be- fore us. We have narrowly escaped collision, and perhaps a fatal accident. Loud detonations of can- non also warn us of the dangerous proximity of the wild Lighthouse coast which we cannot see. Muffled on the chilly deck, winds blowing and waves roughly rolling, I have been listening to the conversation of a Dublin curate who supports the current formula of doctrine in most devout and christian fashion. It is re- freshing to meet a stranger with so fine and earnest a spirit. The fog happily lifts and before us looms a bold, picturesque, Irish coast. A signal light gleams on the promontory of Howth. Fishing smacks lie quiet on the water, their full-spread sails looking black in the dying day. Between two huge lighthouses, whose beacon lights are flashing, we enter Dublin Bay, where the water resembles, for smoothness, molten glass, and anchor safe at the north wall. While we came thus unharmed through a perilous passage the good ship, "City of Chicago," on which my voyage across the Atlantic was booked for next week, — as I have since learned going at full speed at the same hour with us, and in like fog, struck a rock on the south coast of Ireland, — Old Head of Kinsale, — and was gulfed in the sea! DUBLIN is a handsome city of 250,000, intersected by the 536 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS river Liffey. Stopping at Morrison's Hotel, in two or three days I have seen her greatest attractions, Trinity College, Old Parliament House, Dublin castle, St. Patrick's, and Christ church Cathedrals, Sackville street and its monuments, the fine architectural pile of the Custom House, and the Four Courts, magni- ficent Phcenix park covering 1750 acres, and the handsome new buildings on Kildare Street. A very noble institution is Trinity College, Ireland's great educational center, established in 1 591 . Fronting College Green, it has many venerable stone buildings, encloses three large quadrangles, and a park of 13 acres. In the Library of 300,000 volumes I saw a Harp dating from the fourteenth century (the harp is one of the national emblems) and heard an organ supposed to be the one recovered from a ship of the Spanish Armada. The Bank of Ireland is a circular building with massive columns, originally the Parlia- ment house till 1 80 1 when Ireland was united with Great Britain. Dublin Castle has a picturesque round tower, and Chapel Royal, the latter with much elaborate and beautiful oak carving. The castle was built in the reign of bad King John. Among the Vice-regal apartments I saw the Portrait chamber, the Drawing-room, the Ball room or St. Patrick's Hall. St. Patrick, Ireland's patron saint, began a mission here in 432 A. D., and where he built a church has been reared the massive and grand St. Patrick's Cathedral. (Protestant). Its com- mencement dates from 1 190. In it is shown the well he used in baptizing converts; I drank of its LAST WEEKS IN ENGLAND, AND AN IRISH TOUR 537 water which has iron in solution. Here are monu- ments to Dean Swift and his Stella, Mrs. Hester Johnson. Hard hearted breaker of two fond hearts, Swift deserved cannonading rather than canonizing. I hope he suffered a good spell in purgatory! The Cathedral is 300 feet long; the transept is 160 by 80 feet; the lady chapel is receiving fine decorations of carved stone and Cork marble. Christ's church Cathedral is near, dating from 1038, containing a quaint black marble tomb of Earl Strongbowe, a historic character. A unique covered bridge connects the nave with the Synod House. Both Cathedrals have been restored at large expense by wealthy citizens. The music at St. Patricks, directed by Sir Robert Stuart, organist, and Mus. Doctor, is superb and compares favorably with the best of Europe. The European tourist should assuredly visit Dublin and enjoy the rich musical feasts of St. Patrick's Cathedral. Going there on a week-day I met a strange contrast of grandeur and semi-barbarism. On the one hand the massive edifice — and near by on the paved street was a make- shift cheap market; sheets are spread on the street under the open sky, on which shoddy goods and non- descript merchandise was exposed for sale! THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY 186 miles from Dublin was my next destination. My vis-a-vis was a bright young Irish woman, one of the Queen's Nurses. When the women of the realm presented Victoria with a Jubilee gift, the 538 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS Queen used a portion for herself, and appropriated the remainder to the training of Nurses for her dominion. Beside Training homes in England and Scotland, two such homes have been established in Dublin, the one Protestant, the other Catholic. This sensible young woman was the first Queen's Jubilee- nurse graduated in Ireland. Poor Ireland! dowered by Nature with a soil more fertile than England's, and a climate more equable, with extraordinary advantages for commerce and shipping from her fourteen harbors suitable for the largest ships, and a great number suitable for frigates and smaller boats, — with peat-bogs for fuel, and undeveloped coal-beds which should last her longer than Englands' famous coal mines will last that people, with exquisite scenery which if France pos- sessed it, would bring the tourist-world to her doors, — with all this, Ireland has long suffered the evils of wretched poverty, her agricultural interests stagnant, her manufactures paralyzed, her coal scarcely worked, her scenic attractions unvisited. Oppressors have half strangled her without, and distractions have rent her within. The causes are found in the strained relations of landlord and tenant and the multitudinous evictions, in the absenteeism of landowners who spend the income of their large farms in other countries of Her Majesty's dominions, in the legislation which depriving her of a legitimate market for her manufact- ures — finally almost extinguished them, — and in the curse of her Distilleries which made a few rich by making the poor millions still poorer and more demor- LAST WEEKS IN ENGLAND, AND AN IRISH TOUR 539 alized. Three fourths of the inhabitants are Roman Catholic. The population has diminished chiefly by emigration from eight millions to five millions. Since 1 88 1 there has been an approximation to "free sale, fair rent and fixity of tenure." Belfast, the center of the Protestant influence, is a live and prosperous city, now (instead of Cork as formerly) the second city of Ireland in numbers. As I came through the districts of Leinster and Munster, the country seemed to be large pasturage farms, with scant farming population, the tenants living in wretched mud hovels. I noted the Curragh's plain, an ancient race-course where Her Majesty's troops are encamped ; ruins of church and round tower built by St. Bridget; peat-bogs where the brown turf was dug, heaped and drying for fuel ; a mountain ridge from which tradition says the Devil took a slice in his mouth to the sea shore to svhich the Atlantic Cable is attached! Mallow is a sleepy hollow with a street of thatched white cottages like Burns' at Ayr. Near here, at ruined KillcDlman Castle, Spenser wrote the Faerie Queen. Arriving at Killarney I rest at the pleasant Lake Hotel, on the margin of beautiful Lough Leane, the lower lake. Of the three lakes this is the largest, five miles long by three broad; midway in it is "sweet Innisfallen," an island celebrated in history and story; one wrote of it, "it is the most beautiful in the king's dominions and perhaps in Europe." Sitting on this grassy knoll beneath which are the 540 GOLDEN MEMORIES OP OLD IVORLD LANDS ruins of Castle Lough, I view a scene fit for an artist or worthy to inspire a poet. Before me the ever changeful lake; just now rough with mimic waves; anon smiling like a peaceful soul reflecting heaven's blue. Beyond it is an amphitheater of mountains toward the sea; Mts. Mangerton, Tore, Purple Mountain, The Eagle's Nest, McGillicuddy Reeks. I ramble through a grove and down the shaded avenue to Muckross Abbey. Returning from market is a small cart bearing two ancient Irish dames; both in quaint old-country costume; the one peasant stands up belaboring the slow donkey, the other shares her small place with a large squealing pig! Muckross Abbey founded for Franciscan friars in 1340, stands in a fine private estate among trees of umbrageous growth and is one of the most picturesque ruins in Europe, Next day I take the romantic coach-drive to Kenmare and Glengarriff, and the following day to Bantry Bay; whence by rail to Cork and Queenstown. Our route is by hill and mountain heaped with mossy rocks, through tangled woods and creepers, among blooming rhododendron and wild roses, holly, arbutus and yew, — by murmuring water- falls, by ferns in moist hollows, by hillsides purple with heather bloom, by trees on whose high branches ferns have taken root ! At the height of 1100 feet we look down on green grassy glades and pools, and along graceful mountain curves. Then through a long rock tunnel we emerge from County Kerry into County Cork. Thatched huts of rudest fashion at long intervals are seen, and children follow for pennies LAST WEEKS IN ENGLAND, AND AN IRISH TOUR 541 and silver bits. Even the old grandmother with her staff hobbles after us. At length the handsome church and Nunnery at Kenmare loom upon us like a vision of civilization; and at the hotel we meet passengers who tell the tragic tale of their rescue from the ill-starred ocean-steamer, "City of Chicago." Onward to Glengarriff the scenery grows still more wild and Alpine. Here after a thirty-five mile drive we rest till the morrow; when as we ride to Bantry Bay, twelve miles by coach, a fringe of the furious gale that is lashing the Atlantic reaches us. The winds blew, the rain flew, the wetness grew. Hud- dled under our umbrellas, one of which its inwardness to know, the saucy breeze did blow quite inside out, you know, — we travelers together, all in the moist wild weather, presented so — a comic tableau, — well labeled I ween a Freshwater Scene, — or a View Marine. We took it in, and smiled serene. The brightness of an ideal pleasure trip is heightened by contrast with its shading; happy they who heart pangs have escaped. Of the lakes of Killarney one has well written, — "a land of enchantment; anything more lovely than the ride from Killarney to Bantry does not exist!" By rail we came from Bantry to Cork, 57 miles. Cork is a busy city of 80,000 on the river Lee. I pause for a ramble, "viewing its church of St. Ann, (built 1722) from whose noble steeple ring out the famous Shandon bells; the magnificent Cathedral of St. Finn-Bar. Charming is the ride to Queenstown by the river Lee, with its castle, the last remains of 542 GOLDEN MEMORIES OF OLD WORLD LANDS feudal grandeur I shall see at present. Queenstown with its new cathedral, sightly bluffs, and ten thousand people fronts Spike Island, and one of the finest bays in the world. Next day I embark on the White Star steamship "Adriatic," which now starts on her 186th ocean trip. She has 1,000 souls on board bound for the Western world. My golden days in Europe and the Sunrise- Land now become a fragrant memory; but the beauty, truth and love — those germs of noblest life they held, will cause them still like Aaron's rod to bud and bloom, — until I hear the boatman's call to cross a Vaster Sea! THE END University of Connecticut Libraries