Please handle this volume with care. The University of Connecticut Libraries, Storrs hbl.stx F 788.P88 1961 Exploration of the Colorado River 3 T1S3 DD70TD51 1 00 oo 00 00 ON Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from LYRASIS members and Sloan Foundation http://www.archive.org/details/explorationofcol1961powe MATOR POWELL. THE EXPLORATION OF THE COLORADO RIVER AND ITS CANYONS 1/ (formerly titled: Canyons of the Colorado) BY J. W. POWELL DOVER PUBLICATIONS, INC. NEW YORK F \ c l(o Published in Canada by General Publishing Com- pany, Ltd., 30 Lesmill Road, Don Mills, Toronto, Ontario. Published in the United Kingdom by Constable and Company, Ltd., 10 Orange Street, London, WC 2. This Dover edition, first published in 1961, is an unabridged and unaltered republication of the work first published by Flood & Vincent in 1895 under the title Canyons of the Colorado. Standard Book Number: 486-20094-9 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 61-2228 Manufactured in the United States of America Dover Publications, Inc. 180 Varick Street New York, N. Y. 10014 PREFACE. ON my return from the first exploration of the canyons of the Colorado, I found that our journey had been the theme of much newspaper writing. A story of disaster had been circulated, with many particulars of hardship and tragedy, so that it was currently believed throughout the United States that all the mem- bers of the party were lost save one. A good friend of mine had gathered a great number of obituary notices, and it was interesting and rather flattering to me to discover the high esteem in which I had been held by the people of the United States. In my supposed death I had attained to a glory which I fear my continued life has not fully vindicated. The exploration was not made for adventure, but purely for scientific purposes, geographic and geologic, and I had no intention of writing an account of it, but only of recording the scientific results. Immediately on my return I was interviewed a number of times, and these interviews were published in the daily press ; and here I supposed all interest in the exploration ended. But in 1874 the editors of Scribner's Monthly requested me to publish a popular account of the Colorado exploration in that journal. To this I acceded and prepared four short articles, which were elaborately illustrated from photographs in my possession. In the same year — -1874 — at the instance of Professor Henry of the Smithsonian Institution, I was called before an appropriations committee of the House of Representatives to explain certain estimates made by the Professor for funds to continue scientific work which had been in progress from the date of the original exploration. Mr. Garfield was chairman of the committee, and after listening to my IV PREFACE. account of the progress of the geographic and geologic work, he asked me why no history of the original exploration of the canyons had been published. I informed him that I had no interest in that work as an adventure, but was interested only in the scientific results, and that these results had in part been published and in part were in course of publication. Thereupon Mr. Garfield, in a pleasant manner, insisted that the history of the exploration should be published by the government, and that I must understand that my scientific work would be continued by additional appropriations only upon my promise that I would publish an account of the exploration. I made the promise, and the task was immediately undertaken. My daily journal had been kept on long and narrow strips of brown paper, which were gathered into little volumes that were bound in sole leather in camp as they were completed. After some deliberation I decided to publish this journal, with only such emendations and corrections as its hasty writing in camp necessitated. It chanced that the journal was written in the present tense, so that the first account of my trip appeared in that tense. The journal thus published was not a lengthy paper, constituting but a part of a re- port entitled " Exploration of the Colorado Eiver of the West and its Tributaries. Explored in 1869, 1870, 1871, and 1872, under the direction of the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution." The other papers published with it relate to the geography, geology, and natural history of the country. And here again I supposed all account of the exploration ended. But from that time until the present I have received many letters urging that a popular account of the exploration and a description of that wonderful land should be published by me. This call has been voiced occasionally in the daily press and sometimes in the magazines, until at last I have concluded to publish a fuller account in popular form. In doing this I have revised and enlarged the original journal of exploration, and have added several new chapters descriptive of the region and of the people who inhabit it. Realizing the difficulty of painting in word colors a land so strange, so won- derful, and so vast in its features, in the weakness of my descriptive powers I have sought refuge in graphic illustration, and for this purpose have gathered from the magazines and from various scien- PREFACE. V tific reports an abundance of material. All of this illustrative material originated in my work, but it lias already been used elsewhere. Many years have passed since the exploration, and those who were boys with me in the enterprise are— ah, most of them are dead, and the living are gray with age. Their bronzed, hardy, brave faces come before me as they appeared in the vigor of life ; their lithe but powerful forms seem to move around me j and the memory of the men and their heroic deeds, the men and their generous acts, overwhelms me with a joy that seems almost a grief, for it starts a fountain of tears. I was a maimed man ; my right arm was gone ; and these brave men, these good men, never forgot it. In every danger my safety was their first care, and in every waking hour some kind service was rendered me, and they transfigured my misfortune into a boon. To you — J. C. Sumner, William H. Dunn, W. H. Powell, G. Y. Bradley, O. G. Howland, Seneca Howland, Frank Goodman, W. E. Hawkins, and Andrew Hall — my noble and generous companions, dead and alive, I dedicate this book. CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAGE I. The Valley of the Colorado 17 II. Mesas and Buttes ....... 39 III. Mountains and Plateaus ...... 67 IV. Cliffs and Terraces 89 Y. From Green River City to Flaming Gorge . . 117 YI. From Flaming Gorge to the Gate of Lodore . . . 133 VII. The Canyon of Lodore ...... 151 VIII. From Echo Park to the Mouth of the Uinta River . 167 IX. From the Mouth of the Uinta River to the Junction of the Grand and Green 189 X. From the Junction of the Grand and Green to the Mouth of the Little Colorado . . . . . . 211 XI. From the Little Colorado to the Foot of the Grand Canyon 247 XII. The Rio Yirgen and the Uinkaret Mountains . . 289 XIII. Over the River 327 XIV. To ZuTxi . 351 XV. The Grand Canyon 379 Index 399 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Portrait of the Author ....... Frontispiece PAGE The Colorado River 16 Parunuweap Canyon ........ 18 Bird's-eye View of the Cliffs 19 San Francisco Peak 21 Cliff near Fort Wingate 22 Scenery on the High Plateaus 23 The Mogollon Escarpment 25 Snow-clad Mountains on the River 26 Our Messenger 28 Apache Basket 29 Our Messenger's Wife 30 Ruins of Toyalone 31 A Zuni Court 33 Adobe Church, Zuni 34 The Site of Moenkopi 36 Mountain of the Holy Cross ...... 38 Wingate Cliff 40 Pyramid Butte near Fort Wingate 41 Zuni Cliffs 42 Great Neck Nine Miles South of Salazar .... 43 Cinder Cone and Neck, Northeast of Grant Station . . 44 Two Large Necks, the More Distant One being the Cabazon 45 Neck Six Miles Northeast of Juantafoya 46 A Group of Necks near Mount Taylor .... 47 Panorama from the Edge of Mount Taylor Mesa ... 48 Panorama in the Valley of the Puerco .... 50 Ruins at the Head of McElmo Canyon 52 A Navajo Hogan 53 An Ancient Coiled Vase from Tusayan 54 A Typical Cliff Dwelling 56 A Room in a Pueblo 57 A Navajo Ready for a Journey 58 A Navajo Boy 59 Gardens of Zuni ......... 60 A Tusayan Ladder 61 A Zuni Stool 61 X CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. PAGE A Tusayan Field Shelter 62 Another Tusayan Field Shelter 63 View of Hano, One of the Seven Pueblos of Tusayan . . 64 Mesa Verde between 64 and 65 Mount Moran, Teton Range, Wyoming .... 66 Marble Basins, Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone Park . 69 Terraced Basins, Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone Park . 70 Tabernacle Crater and Lava Beds of the Basin Province . 73 View on Great Salt Lake Desert, showing Mountains half buried by Lake Sediments 74 An Indian Hunter . 76 Reservoir Butte, showing Terraces of the Ancient Lake Bon- neville Shorelines 77 Pavant Butte, over a Submarine Volcano of the Great Basin 78 An Indian Camp ......... 79 Indians Gambling 80 Ruin near Moenkopi 81 Ruins of Payupki, Six Miles Northwest of Mashongnavi, Tusayan 82 Shupaulovi 85 General View of Zuiii, looking West ..... 86 The Gray Cliffs 88 Section and Bird's-eye View of the Plateaus North of the Grand Canyon 90 A Group of Stone Corrals 91 Ruins 92 Lagoon on the Kaibab ........ 95 Pink Cliffs, Paunsagunt Plateau 96 A Permian Butte 99 Vermilion Cliffs at Kanab 100 A Midsummerday's Dream on the Colob . . . . 103 An Indian Village ......... 104 Antinaints, Putusiv, and Wichuts in Festal Dress . . 105 Perspective View of Typical Solitary House .... 106 Perspective View of Round- House Structure of Lava . . 107 An Ancient Cliff House 108 A Zuni Eagle Cage 109 A View of Zuni . . . . . . . . .110 Walpi Dance Rock 112 A Passageway in Walpi 114 A Passageway in Mashongnavi 115 The Hurricane Fault . . . . between 114 and 115 Temples and Towers of the Rio Virgen . between 114 and 115 Towers of the Vermilion Cliffs .... between 114 and 115 Panorama between 114 and 115 Terraced Houses in Zuni 116 The Start from Green River Station . . . . . 118 View in Sichumovi 121 Trail up Walpi Mesa . . 122 Ridges on Bitter Creek 123 Mesas 124 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XI PAGE A Valley West of Green River 125 Alcove Lands 126 Bad Lands 127 Oar Indian Guide 128 Our Guide's Boy . 129 Green Eiver Plains 130 The Chief Kiva of Shupaulovi . . . . . .131 Walpi 132 Camp at Flaming Gorge ........ 134 Mashongnavi, with Shupaulovi in the Distance . . . 135 Horseshoe Canyon 136 Scene in Hano ......... 139 Pescado Pueblo, Outside Steps 140 Oven near Pescado Pueblo ....... 141 Primitive Andiron in Shumopavi . . . . . . 142 Tusayan Mealing- Stones . 143 Kiva and Stone Corrals of Mashongnavi . . . . . 144 "Hogbacks" with Intervening Valleys .... 146 An Ancient Pueblo Metate 148 The Home of the Chief 150 Gate of Lodore . . . 153 Wreck at Disaster Falls 155 Metalliferous Veins exposed to View ..... 156 Winnie's Grotto, a Side Canyon 159 Eroded Towers capped with Large Blocks of Sandstone . . 161 Fire in Camp 162 An Isolated House at Zuiii . 164 An Oraibi Court 166 The Rescue 169 Echo Park 170 Fragment of Wall, Zuiii 171 Kivas of Shumopavi 172 General View of Awatubi 173 Swallow Cave 175 View of Shumopavi 177 Ruins 178, 179 Indian Lodge in the Uinta Valley 181 Warrior and Bride 183 Our Interpreter and His Family 185 House Building at Oraibi 186 General View of Ojo Caliente 188 Sumner's Amphitheater . 190 Chimneys and Roofs, Zuiii ....... 193 A Tusayan Interior . . . . . . . . 194 Lighthouse Rock, Canyon of Desolation 197 Gunnison Butte, Gray Canyon 199 Ruins of Ketchipauan ........ 201 Bird's-eye View of the Land of the Standing Rocks . . 202 The Butte of the Cross 204 Land of the Standing Rocks 205 Xll CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. PAGE Moenkopi 207 Oraibi Houses 208 The Heart of Marble Canyon 210 A Lateral Canyon ......... 213 A Tusayan Mealing Trough. 215 The Heart of Cataract Canyon 217 Water Basin in Gypsum Canyon 219 The Water Pocket Canyon 221 Plan of the Euin of Kin-Tiel, near Tusayan . . . 222 Pescado Houses 225 Eepairing Boats at the Mouth of Dirty Devil River . . 226 Ruins on the Brink of Glen Canyon 228 Island Monument in Glen Canyon . . . . . . 231 Glen Canyon 232 An Enclosing Wall of Upright Stones at Ojo Caliente . 235 Marble Canyon 236 Noonday Rest in Marble Canyon 239 View of Marble Canyon from Vermilion Cliffs . . . 240 Adobe Walls, Zuili 243 At the Mouth of the Little Colorado 246 Walls of Gneiss 249 Running a Rapid 250 Head of the Grand Canyon 252 The Inner Gorge ......... 254 Signal of Discovery or Alarm 257 Signal, "Who are you?' 7 Answer, a Pani" .... 258 Signal of Successful War Party 261 A Signal of Peace 262 Moki Method of Dressing the Hair 265 Moki Method of Spinning 266 An Alcove in the Red Wall 269 Kanab Canyon, near the Junction ...... 270 Kanab Canyon in the Red Wall Limestone . . . 273 The . Brink of the Inner Gorge 275 The Grand Canyon of the Colorado, showing Amphitheater and Sculptured Buttes . 276 Climbing the Grand Canyon Wall 279 Triangulation Station 281 Cavate Houses 283 Standing Rocks 285 Mount Trumbull, from Mount Logan 288 Mary's Veil, the Upper Fall on Pine Creek .... 290 Pilling' s Cascade, the Lower Falls on Pine Creek . . 291 Aboriginal Ladder 292 Another Style of Ladder 293 Entrance to Parunuweap ........ 295 Towers on the Rio Virgen ....... 296 Mukuntuweap Canyon 298 The Witches' Water Pocket 301 Wunavai Gathering Seeds 302 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Xlll m Kin Town of Oraibi Terrace Fireplace and Chimney of Shumopavi A Sweat House An Interior Lodge Halved and Pinned Trapdoor Frame of Zuni Kiva Wooden Pivot Hinges of a Zuiii Door A Poultry House of Sichumovi resembling an Oven The Human Pickle ...... Eecent Lava Flow on the Uinkaret A Zuni Window glazed with Selenite . A Zuni Chair An Ancient Circular Doorway or " Stone Close A Gaming Eing Interior View of a Tusayan Kiva Cave Lake in Kanab Canyon Ancient Pottery from Tusayan Tusayan Fetiches and Implements Dance Paraphernalia from Tusayan The Thousand Wells Terraced Houses in Oraibi showing Entrance to Kiva in ground ....... The House of Talti, Chief of the Council in the Praying for Rain Mashongnavi Tusayan Trays . Tusayan Maskettes Sichumovi and Hano Walpi, a Village of Tusayan Tusayan Basketry .... Zuni from Housetops, looking East Navajo Indian with Silver Ornaments Bringing down the Batten Navajo Church, near Fort Wingate . Eound Tower on a Eock Toyalone, from the Top of a House in Typical Terraced Communal Pueblo Dancer holding up the Great Plumed Arrow Dancer "swallowing" the Great Plumed Arrow Navajo Woman weaving a Belt Navajo Woman spinning , A Eoom in a Zuni House Ashtishkee, a Navajo Chief .... Navajo Medicine Lodge, viewed from the South Navajo Medicine Lodge, viewed from the East Navajo Fire Dance .... Workshop of Navajo Silversmith . Zuni Woman weaving a Belt Weaving of Diamond-shaped Diagonals Zuni Fetiches Effigy Pottery from Zuni Zuni Pottery ...... Zuni Tiel Fore 330 PAGE 305 306 309 310 310 312 314 317 318 319 320 320 322 324 326 329 332 334 335 337 339 340 341 343 344 346 348, 349 350 352 353 354 355 356 357 358 359 360 361 362 365 366 367 368 369 370 371 372 373 374 Xiv CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. PAGE Zuni Grails .......... 375 Culinary Pottery from Zuni 376 Navajo Fabrics 377 The Grand Canyon 378 A Gable with Pinnacles . 381 Niches or Panels in the Bed Wall Limestone .... 382 Bounded Inward Curves and Projecting Cusps of the Walls 384 The Eastern Temple 387 The Western Temple 388 Granite Falls, Kaibab Division, Grand Canyon . . . 391 Dikes in the Canyon Wall 392 Pinnacles of the Kaibab 395 Vishnu's Temple 396 Key to the Panorama from Point Sublime, looking East, between 396 and 397 Key to the Panorama from Point Sublime, looking West, between 396 and 397 Key to the Panorama from Point Sublime, looking South, between 396 and 397 Grand Canyon at the Foot of the Toroweap, looking East, between 396 and 397 The Great Unconformity at the Head of the Grand Canyon, between 396 and 397 THE COLORADO RIVER AND ITS CANYONS IDAHO SCALE - MILES 50 100 150 NEVADA 200/ ~3 / / / / / / / / / ' "~~~""" — — ^, WYOMING GREEN RIVER UTAH 6RAN0 LAKE & l \ /SAINT \ \ \ \ \ /GEORGE ° \ I I — > J i ^C o \ ( -^s^Sr;*-:: :■--■■- ~^^ ■:.:& r* # o A r o g w ; o L y o h^ <$ £ ■ cf i H > « E3 £ O ^ CHAPTER V. FEOM GEEEN EIVEE CITY TO FLAMING GOEGE. IN" the summer of 1867, with a small party of naturalists, students, and amateurs like myself, I visited the mountain region of Colorado Territory. While in Middle Park I explored a little canyon through which the Grand River runs, immediately below the now well-known watering place, Middle Park Hot Springs. Later in the fall I passed through Cedar Canyon, the gorge by which the Grand leaves the park. A result of the summer's study was to kindle a desire to explore the canyons of the Grand, Green, and Colorado rivers, and the next summer I organized an expedition with the intention of penetrating still farther into that canyon country. As soon as the snows were melted, so that the main range could be crossed, I went over into Middle Park, and proceeded thence down the Grand to the head of Cedar Canyon, then across the Park Eange by Gore's Pass, and in October found myself and party encamped on the White Eiver, about 120 miles above its mouth. At that point I built cabins and established winter quarters, intending to occupy the cold season, as far as possible, in exploring the adjacent country. The winter of 1868-69 proved favorable to my purposes, and several excursions were made, southward to the Grand, down the White to the Green, northward to the Yampa, and around the Uinta Mountains. During these several excursions I seized every opportunity to study the canyons through which these upper streams run, and while thus engaged formed plans for the exploration of the canyons of the Colorado. Since that time I have been engaged in executing these plans, sometimes employed in the field, sometimes in the office. Begun originally as an exploration, the work was finally developed into a survey, embracing the geography, geology, ethnography, and natural THE START FROM GREEN RIVER STATION. FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE. 119 history of the country, and a number of gentlemen have, from time to tinie, assisted me in the work. Early in the spring of 1869 a party was organized for the exploration of the canyons. Boats were built in Chicago and transported by rail to the point where the Union Pacific Eailroad crosses the Green Eiver. "With these we were to descend the Green to the Colorado, and the Colorado down to the foot of the Grand Canyon. May 24., 1869. — The good people of Green Eiver City turn out to see us start. We raise our little flag, push the boats from shore, and the swift current carries us down. Our boats are four in number. Three are built of oak ; stanch and firm j double -ribbed, with double stem and stern posts, and further strengthened by bulkheads, dividing each into three compartments. Two of these, the fore and aft, are decked, forming water-tight cabins. It is expected these will buoy the boats should the waves roll over them in rough water. The fourth boat is made of pine, very light, but 16 feet in length, with a sharp cutwater, and every way built for fast rowing, and divided into compartments as the others. The little vessels are 21 feet long, and, taking out the cargoes, can be carried by four men. We take with us rations deemed sufficient to last ten months, for we expect, when winter comes on and the river is filled with ice, to lie over at some point until spring arrives ; and so we take with us abundant supplies of clothing, likewise. We have also a large quantity of ammunition and two or three dozen traps. For the purpose of building cabins, repairing boats, and meeting other exigencies, we are supplied with axes, hammers, saws, augers, and other tools, and a quantity of nails and screws. For scientific work, we have two sextants, four chronometers, a number of barometers, thermometers, compasses, and other instruments. The flour is divided into three equal parts ; the meat, and all other articles of our rations, in the same way. Each of the larger boats has an axe, hammer, saw, auger, and other tools, so that all are loaded alike. We distribute the cargoes in this way that we may not be entirely destitute of some important article should any one of the boats be lost. In the small boat we pack a part of the scientific 120 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. instruments, three guns, and three small bundles of clothing, only ; and in this I proceed in advance to explore the channel. J. 0. Sumner and William H. Dunn are my boatmen in the "Emma Dean 77 ; then follows " Kitty Clyde's Sister, 77 manned by W. H. Powell and G. Y. Bradley; next, the "No Name, 77 with O. G. Howland, Seneca Howland, and Frank Goodman; and last comes the "Maid of the Canyon, 77 with W. E. Hawkins and Andrew Hall. Sumner was a soldier during the late war, and before and since that time has been a great traveler in the wilds of the Mississippi Valley and the Eocky Mountains as an amateur hunter. He is a fair -haired, delicate-looking man, but a veteran in experience, and has performed the feat of crossing the Eocky Mountains in midwinter on snowshoes. He spent the winter of 1886-87 in Middle Park, Colorado, for the purpose of making some natural history collections for me, and succeeded in killing three grizzlies, two mountain lions, and a large number of elk, deer, sheep, wolves, beavers, and many other animals. When Bayard Taylor traveled through the parks of Colorado, Sumner was his guide, and he speaks in glowing terms of Mr. Taylor 7 s genial qualities in camp, but he was mortally offended when the great traveler requested him to act as doorkeeper at Breckenridge to receive the admission fee from those who attended his lectures. Dunn was a hunter, trapper, and mule-packer in Colorado for many years. He dresses in buckskin with a dark oleaginous luster, doubtless due to the fact that he has lived on fat venison and killed many beavers since he first donned his uniform years ago. His raven hair falls down to his back, for he has a sublime contempt of shears and razors. Captain Powell was an officer of artillery during the late war and was captured on the 22d day of July, 1864, at Atlanta and served a ten months 7 term in prison at Charleston, where he was placed with other officers under fire. He is silent, moody, and sarcastic, though sometimes he enlivens the camp at night with a song. He is never surprised at anything, his coolness never deserts him, and he would choke the belching throat of a volcano if he thought the spitfire meant anything but fun. We call him " Old Shady. 77 Bradley, a lieutenant during the late war, and since orderly sergeant FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE, 121 in the regular army, was, a few weeks previous to our start, discharged, by order of the Secretary of War, that he might go on this trip. He is scrupulously careful, and a little mishap works him into a passion, VIEW IN SICHUMOVI. but when labor is needed he has a ready hand and powerful arm, and in danger, rapid judgment and unerring skill. A great difficulty or peril changes the petulant spirit into a brave, generous soul. TRAIL UP WALPI MESA. FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING- GORGE. 123 O. G. Howland is a printer by trade, an editor by profession, and a hunter by choice. When bnsily employed he usually puts his hat in his pocket, and his thin hair and long beard stream in the wind, giving him a wild look, much like that of King Lear in an illustrated copy of Shakespeare which tumbles around the camp. Seneca Howland is a quiet, pensive young man, and a great favorite with all. Goodman is a stranger to us — a stout, willing Englishman, with florid face and more florid anticipations of a glorious trip. RIDGES ON BITTER CREEK. Billy Hawkins, the cook, was a soldier in the Union Army during the war ? and when discharged at its close went West, and since then has been engaged as teamster on the plains or hunter in the mountains. He is an athlete and a jovial good fellow, who hardly seems to know his own strength. Hall is a Scotch boy, nineteen years old, with what seems to us a " secondhand head," which doubtless came down to him from some knight who wore it during the Border Wars. It looks a very old head indeed, with deep-set blue eyes and beaked nose. Young as he is, Hall has had experience in hunting, trapping, and fighting Indians, and he makes the most of it, for he can tell a good story, and is never encumbered by unnecessary scruples in giving to his narratives those embellishments which help to make a story complete. He is always ready for work or play and is a good hand at either. Our boats are heavily loaded, and only with the utmost care is it pos- 124 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. sible to float in the rough river without shipping water. A mile or two below town we run on a sandbar. The men jump into the stream and thus lighten the vessels, so that they drift over, and on we go. MESAS. In trying to avoid a rock an oar is broken on one of the boats, and, thus crippled, she strikes. The current is swift and she is sent reeling and rocking into the eddy. In the confusion two other oars are lost overboard, and the men seem quite discomfited, much to the amusement of the other members of the party. Catching the oars and starting again, the boats are once more borne down the stream, until we land at a small cottonwood grove on the bank and camp for noon. During the afternoon we run down to a point where the river sweeps the foot of an overhanging cliff, and here we camp for the night. The sun is yet two hours high, so I climb the cliffs and walk back among the strangely carved rocks of the Green Eiver bad lands. These are sandstones and shales, gray and buff, red and brown, blue and black strata in many alternations, lying nearly horizontal, and almost without soil and vegetation. They are very friable, and the rain and streams have carved them into quaint shapes. Barren desolation is stretched before me ; and yet there is a beauty in the scene. The fantastic carvings, imitating architectural forms and suggesting rude but weird FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE. 125 statuary, with the bright and varied colors of the rocks, conspire to make a scene such as the dweller in verdure- clad hills can scarcely appreciate. Standing on a high point, I can look off in every direction over a vast landscape, with salient rocks and cliffs glittering in the evening sun. Dark shadows are settling in the valleys and gulches, and the heights are made higher and the depths deeper by the glamour and witchery of light and shade. Away to the south the Uinta Mountains stretch in a long line, — high peaks thrust into the sky, and snow fields glittering like lakes of molten silver, and pine forests in somber green, and rosy clouds playing around the borders of huge, black masses ; and heights and clouds and mountains and snow fields and forests and rock- lands are blended into one grand view. Now the sun goes down, and I return to camp. May 25. — We start early this morning and run along at a good A VALLEY WEST OF GREEN RIVER. rate until about nine o'clock, when we are brought up on a gravelly bar. All jump out and help the boats over by main strength. Then a rain comes on, and river and clouds conspire to give us a thorough drenching. Wet, chilled, and tired to exhaustion, we stop at a cotton- 126 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. wood grove on the bank, build a huge fire, make a cup of coffee, and are soon refreshed and quite merry. When the clouds "get out of our sunshine' 7 we start again. A few miles farther down a flock of mountain sheep are seen on a cliff to the right. The boats are quietly tied up and three or four men go after them. In the course of two ALCOVE LANDS. or three hours they return. The cook has been successful in bringing down a fat lamb. The unsuccessful hunters taunt him with finding it dead ; but it is soon dressed, cooked, and eaten, and makes a fine four o'clock dinner. "All aboard," and down the river for another dozen miles. On the way we pass the mouth of Black's Fork, a dirty little stream that seems somewhat swollen. Just below its mouth we land and camp. May 26. — To-day we pass several curiously shaped buttes, standing between the west bank of the river and the high bluffs beyond. These buttes are outliers of the same beds of rocks as are exposed on the faces of the bluffs,- — thinly laminated shales and sandstones of many colors, standing above in vertical cliffs and buttressed below with a water -carved talus ; some of them attain an altitude of nearly a thousand feet above the level of the river. FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE. 127 We glide quietly down the placid stream past the carved cliffs of the mauvaises terres, now and then obtaining glimpses of distant mountains. Occasionally, deer are started from the glades among the willows j and several wild geese, after a chase through the water, are shot. After dinner we pass through a short and narrow canyon into a broad valley ; from this, long, lateral valleys stretch back on either side as far as the eye can reach. Two or three miles below, Henry's Fork enters from the right. "We land a short distance above the junction, where a cache of instruments and rations was made several months ago in a cave at the foot of the cliff, a distance back from the river. Here they were safe from the elements and wild beasts, but not from man. Some anxiety is BAD LANDS. felt, as we have learned that a party of Indians have been camped near the place for several weeks. Our fears are soon allayed, for we find the cache undisturbed. Our chronometer wheels have not been taken for hair ornaments, our barometer tubes for beads, or the sextant thrown into the river as "bad medicine," as had been predicted. Taking up our cache, we pass down to the foot of the Uinta Mountains and in a cold storm go into camp. 128 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. The river is running to the south ; the mountains have an easterly and westerly trend directly athwart its course, yet it glides on in a quiet way as if it thought a mountain range no formidable obstruction. It enters the range by a flaring, brilliant red gorge, that may be seen from the north a score of miles away. The great mass of the OUR INDIAN GUIDE. mountain ridge through which the gorge is cut is composed of bright vermilion rocks ; but they are surmounted by broad bands of mottled buff and gray, and these bands come down with a gentle curve to the water's edge on the nearer slope of the mountain. This is the head of the first of the canyons we are about to ex- plore — an introductory one to a series made by the river through this FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE. 129 range. We name it Flaming Gorge. The cliffs, or walls, we find on measurement to be about 1,200 feet high. May 27. — To-day it rains, and we employ the time in repairing one of our barometers, which was broken on the way from New York. A new tube has to be put in ; that is, a long glass tube has to be filled with mercury, four or five inches at a time, and each installment boiled our guide's boy. over a spirit lamp. It is a delicate task to do this without breaking the glass j but we have success, and are ready to measure mountains once more. May 28. — To-day we go to the summit of the cliff on the left and take observations for altitude, and are variously employed in topographic and geologic work. 130 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. May 29. — This morning Bradley and I cross the river and climb more than a thousand feet to a point where we can see the stream sweep- ing in a long, beautiful curve through the gorge below. Turning and looking to the west, we can see the valley of Henry's Fork, through which, for many miles, the little river flows in a tortuous channel. Cottonwood groves are planted here and there along its course, and between them are stretches of grass land. The narrow mountain valley is inclosed on either side by sloping walls of naked rock of many GREEN RIVER PLAINS. bright colors. To the south of the valley are the Uintas, and the peaks of the Wasatch Mountains can be faintly seen in the far west. To the north, desert plains, dotted here and there with curiously carved hills and buttes, extend to the limit of vision. For many years this valley has been the home of a number of moun- taineers, who were originally hunters and trappers, living with the Indians. Most of them have one or more Indian wives. They no longer roam with the nomadic tribes in pursuit of buckskin or beaver, but have accumulated herds of cattle and horses, and consider them- selves quite well to do. Some of them have built cabins ; others FROM GREEN RIVER CITY TO FLAMING GORGE. 131 still live in lodges. John Baker is one of the most famous of these men, and from our point of view we can see his lodge, three or four miles up the river. The distance from Green River City to Flaming Gorge is 62 miles. The river runs between bluffs, in some places standing so close to each other that no flood plain is seen. At such a point the river might properly be said to run through a canyon. The bad lands on either side are interrupted here and there by patches of Artemisia, or sage brush. "Where there is a flood plain along either side of the river, a few cottonwoods may be seen. M.\\.)fccvrT N\*V\«\9-90. THE CHIEF KIVA OF SHUPAULOVI. CHAPTER VI. FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. ONE must not think of a mountain range as a line of peaks standing on a plain, but as a broad platform many miles wide from which mountains have been carved by the waters. One must conceive, too, that this plateau is cut by gulches and canyons in many directions and that beautiful valleys are scattered about at different altitudes. The first series of canyons we are about to ex- plore constitutes a river channel through such a range of mountains. The canyon is cut nearly halfway through the range, then turns to the east and is cut along the central line, or axis, gradually crossing it to the south. Keeping this direction for more than 50 miles, it then turns abruptly to a southwest course, and goes diagonally through the southern slope of the range. This much we know before entering, as we made a partial exploration of the region last fall, climbing many of its peaks, and in a few places reaching the brink of the canyon walls and looking over precipices many hundreds of feet high to the water below. Here and there the walls are broken by lateral canyons, the channels of little streams entering the river. Through two or three of these we found our way down to the Green in early winter and walked along the low water-beach at the foot of the cliffs for several miles. Where the river has this general easterly direction the western part only has cut for itself a canyon, while the eastern has formed a broad valley, called, in honor of an old-time trapper, Brown's Park, and long known as a favorite winter resort for mountain men and Indians. May 30. — This morning we are ready to enter the mysterious canyon, and start with some anxiety. The old mountaineers tell us that it cannot be run; the Indians say, " Water heap catch 'em" ; but all are eager for the trial, and off we go. 134 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. Entering Flaming Gorge, we quickly run through it on a swift current and emerge into a little park. Half a mile below, the river wheels sharply to the left and enters another canyon cut into the mountain. We enter the narrow passage. On either side the walls rapidly increase in altitude. On the left are overhanging ledges and cliffs,— 500, 1,000, 1,500 feet high. On the right the rocks are broken and ragged, and the water fills the channel from cliff to cliff. Now the river turns abruptly around a point to the right, and the waters plunge swiftly down among great rocks ; and here we have our first experience with canyon rapids. I stand up on the deck of my boat to seek a way among the wave- beaten rocks. All un- tried as we are with such waters, the mo- ments are filled with intense anxiety. Soon our boats reach the swift current ; a stroke or two, now on this camp at flaming gorge. side, now on that, and we thread the narrow passage with exhilarating velocity, mounting the high waves, whose foaming crests dash over us, and plunging into the troughs, until we reach the quiet water below. Then comes a feeling of great relief. Our first rapid is run. Another mile, and we come into the valley again. mmmmwmm : ■ ■■■■'■ ■ 'Bo! HORSESHOE CANYON. FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. 137 Let me explain this canyon. Where the river turns to the left above, it takes a course directly into the mountain, penetrating to its very heart, then wheels back upon itself, and runs out into the valley from which it started only half a mile below the point at which it entered ; so the canyon is in the form of an elongated letter U, with the apex in the center of the mountain. We name it Horseshoe Canyon. Soon we leave the valley and enter another short canyon, very narrow at first, but widening below as the canyon walls increase in height. Here we discover the mouth of a beautiful little creek coming down through its narrow water-worn cleft. Just at its entrance there is a park of two or three hundred acres, walled on every side by almost vertical cliffs hundreds of feet in altitude, with three gateways through the walls — one up the river, another down, and a third through which the creek comes in. The river is broad, deep, and quiet, and its waters mirror towering rocks. Kingfishers are playing about the streams, and so we adopt as names Kingfisher Creek, Kingfisher Park, and Kingfisher Canyon. At night we camp at the foot of this canyon. Our general course this day has been south, but here the river turns to the east around a point which is rounded to the shape of a dome. On its sides little cells have been carved by the action of the water, and in these pits, which cover the face of the dome, hundreds of swallows have built their nests. As they flit about the cliffs, they look like swarms of bees, giving to the whole the appearance of a colossal beehive of the old-time form, and so we name it Beehive Point. The opposite wall is a vast amphitheater, rising in a succession of terraces to a height of 1,200 or 1,500 feet. Each step is built of red sandstone, with a face of naked red rock and a glacis clothed with verdure. So the amphitheater seems banded red and green, and the evening sun is playing with roseate flashes on the rocks, with shimmer- ing green on the cedars' spray, and with iridescent gleams on the dancing waves. The landscape revels in the sunshine. May 31. — We start down another canyon and reach rapids made dangerous by high rocks lying in the channel j so we run ashore and let our boats down with lines. In the afternoon we come to more dangerous rapids and stop to examine them. I find we must do the same work 138 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. again, but, being on the wrong side of the river to obtain a foot- hold, must first cross over — no very easy matter in such a current, with rapids and rocks below. We take the pioneer boat, "Emma Dean," over, and unload her on the bank ; then she returns and takes another load. Running back and forth, she soon has half our cargo over. Then one of the larger boats is manned and taken across, but is carried down almost to the rocks in spite of hard rowing. The other boats follow and make the landing, and we go into camp for the night. At the foot of the cliff on this side there is a long slope covered with pines 5 under these we make our beds, and soon after sunset are seeking rest and sleep. The cliffs on either side are of red sandstone and stretch toward the heavens 2,500 feet. On this side the long, pine-clad slope is surmounted by perpendicular cliffs, with pines on their summits. The wall on the other side is bare rock from the water's edge up 2,000 feet, then slopes back, giving footing to pines and cedars. As the twilight deepens, the rocks grow dark and somber ; the threatening roar of the water is loud and constant, and I lie awake with thoughts of the morrow and the canyons to come, interrupted now and then by characteristics of the scenery that attract my attention. And here I make a discovery. On looking at the mountain directly in front, the steepness of the slope is greatly exaggerated, while the distance to its summit and its true altitude are correspondingly diminished. I have heretofore found that to judge properly of the slope of a mountain side, one must see it in profile. In coming- down the river this afternoon, I observed the slope of a particular part of the wall and made an estimate of its altitude. While at supper, I noticed the same cliff from a position facing it, and it seemed steeper, but not half so high. Now lying on my side and looking at it, the true proportions appear. This seems a wonder, and I rise to take a view of it standing. It is the same cliff as at supper time. Lying down again, it is the cliff as seen in profile, with a long slope and distant sum- mit. Musing on this, I forget "the morrow and the canyons to come" $ I have found a way to estimate the altitude and slope of an inclination, in like manner as I can judge of distance along the horizon. The reason is simple. A reference to the stereoscope will FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. 139 suggest it. The distance between the eyes forms a base line for optical triangulation. j une 2. _To-day we have an exciting ride. The river rolls down the canyon at a wonderful rate, and, with no rocks in the way, we make SCENE IN HANO. almost railroad speed. Here and there the water rushes into a narrow gorge ; the rocks on the side roll it into the center in great waves, and the boats go leaping and bounding over these like things of life, reminding me of scenes witnessed in Middle Park — herds of startled deer bounding through forests beset with fallen timber. I ' ' ^T FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. 141 mention the resemblance to some of the hunters, and so striking is it that the expression, "See the blacktails jumping the logs," comes to be a common one. At times the waves break and roll over the boats, which necessitates much bailing and obliges us to stop occasion- ally for that purpose. At one time we run twelve miles in an hour, stoppages included. Last spring I had a conversation with an old Indian named Pariats, who told me about one of his tribe attempting to run this canyon. "The rocks," he said, holding his hands above his head, his arms verti- cal, and looking between them to the heavens, "the rocks h-e-a-p, OVEN NEAR PESCADO PUEBLO. h-e-a-p high ; the water go h-oo-woogh, h-oo-woogh 5 water-pony h-e-a-p buck 5 water catch 'em ; no see 'em Injun any more ! no see 'em squaw any more I no see 'em papoose any more ! " Those who have seen these wild Indian ponies rearing alternately before and behind, or "bucking," as it is called in the vernacular, will appreciate his description. At last we come to calm water, and a threatening roar is heard in the distance. Slowly approaching the point whence the sound issues, we come near to falls, and tie up just above them on the left. Here we shall be compelled to make a portage ; so we unload the boats, 142 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. PRIMITIVE ANDIRON IN SHUMOPAVI. and fasten a long line to the bow of the smaller one, and another to the stern, and moor her close to the brink of the fall. Then the bowline is taken below and made fast ; the stern line is held by five or six men, and the boat let down as long as they can hold her against the rushing waters ; then, letting go one end of the line, it runs through the ring ; the boat leaps over the fall and is caught by the lower rope. !Now we rest for the night. June 2. — This morning we make a trail among the rocks, transport the cargoes to a point below the fall, let the remaining boats over, and are ready to start before noon. On a high rock by which the trail passes we find the inscription : "Ashley 18-5. " The third figure is obscure — some of the party reading it 1835, some 1855. James Baker, an old-time mountaineer, once told me about a party of men starting down the river, and Ashley was FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. 143 named as one. The story runs that the "boat was swamped, and some of the party drowned in one of the canyons below. The word "Ashley" is a warning to us, and we resolve on great caution. Ashley Falls is the name we give to the cataract. The river is very narrow, the right wall vertical for 200 or 300 feet, the left towering to a great height, with a vast pile of broken rocks lying between the foot of the cliff and the water. Some of the rocks broken down from the ledge above have tumbled into the channel and caused this fall. One great cubical block, thirty or forty feet high, stands in the middle of the stream, and the waters, parting to either side, plunge down about twelve feet, and are broken again by the smaller rocks into a rapid below. Immediately below the falls the water occupies the entire channel, there being no talus at the foot of the cliffs. TUSAYAN MEALING-STONES. PI 1 w a FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODOEE. 145 We embark and run down a short distance, where we find a landing-place for dinner. On the waves again all the afternoon. [Near the lower end of this canyon, to which we have given the name of Eed Canyon, is a little park, where streams come down from distant mountain summits and enter the river on either side ; and here we camp for the night under two stately pines. June S. — This morning we spread our rations, clothes, etc., on the ground to dry, and several of the party go out for a hunt. I take a walk of five or six miles up to a pine-grove park, its grassy carpet be- decked with crimson velvet flowers, set in groups on the stems of pear-shaped cactus plants j patches of painted cups are seen here and there, with yellow blossoms protruding through scarlet bracts $ little blue-eyed flowers are peeping through the grass ; and the air is filled with fragrance from the white blossoms of the Spirwa. A mountain brook runs through the midst, ponded below by beaver dams. It is a quiet place for retirement from the raging waters of the canyon. It will be remembered that the course of the river from Flaming Gorge to Beehive Point is in a southerly direction and at right angles to the Uinta Mountains, and cuts into the range until it reaches a point within five miles of the crest, where it turns to the east and pursues a course not quite parallel to the trend of the range, but crosses the axis slowly in a direction a little south of east. Thus there is a triangular tract between the river and the axis of the mountain, with its acute angle extending eastward. I climb the mountain over- looking this country. To the east the peaks are not very high, and already most of the snow has melted, but little patches lie here and there under the lee of ledges of rock. To the west the peaks grow higher and the snow fields larger. Between the brink of the canyon and the foot of these peaks, there is a high bench. A number of creeks have their sources in the snowbanks to the south and run north into the canyon, tumbling down from 3,000 to 5,000 feet in a distance of five or six miles. Along their upper courses they run through grassy valleys, but as they approach Eed Canyon they rapidly disappear under the general surface of the country, and emerge into the canyon below in 146 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. deep, dark gorges of their own. Each of these short lateral canyons is marked by a succession of cascades and a wild confusion of rocks and trees and fallen timber and thick undergrowth. The little valleys above are beautiful parks; between the parks are stately pine forests, half hiding ledges of red sandstone. Mule deer and elk abound ; grizzly bears, too, are abundant ; and here wild cats, wolverines, and mountain lions are at home. The forest aisles are filled with the music of birds, and the parks are decked " HOGBACKS," WITH INTERVENING VALLEYS. with flowers. Noisy brooks meander through them ; ledges of moss- covered rocks are seen ; and gleaming in the distance are the snow fields, and the mountain tops are away in the clouds. June Jf. — We start early and run through to Brown's Park. Halfway down the valley, a spur of a red mountain stretches across the river, which cuts a canyon through it. Here the walls are comparatively low, but vertical. A vast number of swallows have built their adobe houses on the face of the cliffs, on either side of the river. The waters are deep and quiet, but the swallows are swift and noisy enough, sweep- ing by in their curved paths through the air or chattering from the rocks, while the young ones stretch their little heads on naked necks FROM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. 147 Jirough the doorways of their mud houses and clamor for food. They are a noisy people. We call this Swallow Canyon. Still down the river we glide until an early hour in the after - noon, when we go into camp under a giant Cottonwood standing on the right bank a little way back from the stream. The party has succeeded in killing a fine lot of wild ducks, and during the afternoon a mess of fish is taken. June 5. — With one of the men I climb a mountain, off on the right. y\ A long spur, with broken ledges of rock, puts down to the river, and along its course, or up the u hogback," as it is called, I make the as- cent. Dunn, who is climbing to the same point, is coming up the gulch. Two hours' hard work has brought us to the summit. These mountains are all verdure-clad ; pine and cedar forests are set on green terraces ; snow-clad mountains are seen in the distance, to the west ; the plains of the upper Green stretch out before us to the north until they are lost in the blue heavens ; but half of the river-cleft range intervenes, and the river itself is at our feet. This half range, beyond the river, is composed of long ridges nearly parallel with the valley. On the farther ridge, to the north, four creeks have their sources. These cut through the intervening ridges, one of which is much higher than that on which they head, by canyon gorges ; then they run with gentle curves across the valley, their banks set with willows, box-elders, and Cottonwood groves. To the east we look up the valley of the Vermilion, through which Fremont found his path on his way to the great parks of Colorado. The reading of the barometer taken, we start down in company, and reach camp tired and hungry, which does not abate one bit our enthusi- asm as we tell of the day's work with its glory of landscape. June 6. — At daybreak I am awakened by a chorus of birds. It seems as if all the feathered songsters of the region have come to the old tree. Several species of warblers, woodpeckers, and flickers above, meadow larks in the grass, and wild geese in the river. I recline on my elbow and watch a lark near by, and then awaken my bedfellow, to listen to my Jenny Lind. A real morning concert for me ; none of your 11 matinees" ! Our cook has been an ox-driver, or " bull- whacker," on the plains, in 148 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. AN ANCIENT PUEBLO METATE. one of those long trains now no longer seen, and he hasn't forgotten his old ways. In the midst of the concert, his voice breaks in : " Eoll out ! roll out ! bulls in the corral ! chain up the gaps ! Eoll out ! roll out ! roll out!" And this is our breakfast bell. To-day we pass through the park, and camp at the head of another canyon. June 7. — To-day two or three of us climb to the summit of the cliff on the left, and find its altitude above camp to be 2,086 feet. The rocks are split with fissures, deep and narrow, some- times a hundred feet or more to the bottom, and these fissures are filled with loose earth and decayed vegetation in which lofty pines find root. On a rock we find a pool of clear, cold water, caught from yesterday evening's shower. After a good drink we walk out to the brink of the canyon and look down to the water below. I can do this now, but it has taken several years of mountain climbing to cool my nerves so that I can sit with my feet over the edge and calmly look down a precipice 2,000 feet. And yet I cannot look on and see another do the same. I must either bid him come away or turn my head. The canyon walls are buttressed on a grand scale, with deep alcoves intervening ; columned crags crown the cliffs, and the river is rolling below. When we return to camp at noon the sun shines in splendor on vermilion walls, shaded into green and gray where the rocks are lichened over ; the river fills the channel from wall to wall, and the canyon opens, like a beautiful portal, to a region of glory. This evening, as I write, the sun is going down and the shadows are settling in the can- yon. The vermilion gleams and roseate hues, blending with the green and gray tints, are slowly changing to somber brown above, and black shadows are creeping over them below ; and now it is a dark portal to a region of gloom — the gateway through which we are to enter on our voyage of exploration to- morrow. What shall we find? A ZUNI STOOL. FliOM FLAMING GORGE TO THE GATE OF LODORE. 149 The distance from Flaming Gorge to Beehive Point is 9f miles. Besides passing through the gorge, the river runs through Horseshoe and Kingfisher canyons, separated by short valleys. The highest point on the walls at Flaming Gorge is 1,300 feet above the river. The east wall at the apex of Horseshoe Canyon is about 1, 600 feet above the water's edge, and from this point the walls slope both to the head and foot of the canyon. Kingfisher Canyon, starting at the water's edge above, steadily in- creases in altitude to 1,200 feet at the foot. Eed Canyon is 25f miles long, and the highest walls are about 2,500 feet. Brown's Park is a valley, bounded on either side by a mountain range, really an expansion of the canyon. The river, through the park, is 35J miles long, but passes through two short canyons on its way, where spurs from the mountains on the south are thrust across its course. CHAPTER VII. THE CANYON OF LODOKE. JUNE 8. — We enter the canyon, and until noon find a succession of rapids, over which onr boats have to be taken. Here I must explain our method of proceeding at such places. The "Emma Dean" goes in advance ; the other boats follow, in obedi- ence to signals. When we approach a rapid, or what on other rivers would often be called a fall, I stand on deck to examine it, while the oarsmen back water, and we drift on as slowly as possible. If I can see a clear chute between the rocks, away we go ; but if the channel is beset entirely across, we signal the other boats, pull to land, and I walk along the shore for closer examination. If this reveals no clear channel, hard work begins. We drop the boats to the very head of the dangerous place and let them over by lines or make a portage, frequently carrying both boats and cargoes over the rocks. The waves caused by such falls in a river differ much from the waves of the sea. The water of an ocean wave merely rises and falls ; the form only passes on, and form chases form unceasingly. A body floating on such waves merely rises and sinks — does not progress unless impelled by wind or some other power. But here the water of the wave passes on while the form remains. The waters plunge down ten or twenty feet to the foot of a fall, spring up again in a great wave, then down and up in a series of billows that gradually disappear in the more quiet waters below ; but these waves are always there, and one can stand above and count them. A boat riding such billows leaps and plunges along with great velocity. Now, the difficulty in riding over these falls, when no rocks are in the way, is with the first wave at the foot. This will sometimes gather for a moment, heap up higher and higher, and then break back. 152 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. If the boat strikes it the instant after it breaks, she cuts through, and the mad breaker dashes its spray over the boat and washes overboard all who do not cling tightly. If the boat, in going over the falls, chances to get caught in some side current and is turned from its course, so as to strike the wave " broadside on," and the wave breaks at the same instant, the boat is capsized ; then we must cling to her, for the water-tight compartments act as buoys and she cannot sink ; and so we go, dragged through the waves, until still waters are reached, when we right the boat and climb aboard. We have several such experiences to-day. At night we camp on the right bank, on a little shelving rock between the river and the foot of the cliff ; and with night comes gloom into these great depths. After supper we sit by our camp fire, made of driftwood caught by the rocks, and tell stories of wild life ; for the men have seen such in the mountains or on the plains, and on the battlefields of the South. It is late before we spread our blankets on the beach. Lying down, we look up through the canyon and see that only a little of the blue heaven appears overhead — a crescent of blue sky, with two or three constellations peering down upon us. I do not sleep for some time, as the excitement of the day has not worn off. Soon I see a bright star that appears to rest on the very verge of the cliff overhead to the east. Slowly it seems to float from its resting place on the rock over the canyon. At first it appears like a jewel set on the brink of the cliff, but as it moves out from the rock I almost wonder that it does not fall. In fact, it does seem to descend in a gentle curve, as though the bright sky in which the stars are set were spread across the canyon, resting on either wall, and swayed down by its own weight. The stars appear to be in the canyon. I soon discover that it is the bright star Yega; so it occurs to me to designate this part of the wall as the "Cliff of the Harp." June 9. — One of the party suggests that we call this the Canyon of Lodore, and the name is adopted. Yery slowly we make our way, often climbing on the rocks at the edge of the water for a few hundred yards to examine the channel before running it. During the afternoon we come to a place where it is necessary to make a portage. The little boat is landed and the others are signaled to come up. THE CANYON OF LODORE. 153 When these rapids or broken falls occnr usually the channel is suddenly narrowed by rocks which have been tumbled from the cliffs or GATE OF LODORE. have been washed in by lateral streams. Immediately above the narrow, rocky channel, on one or both sides, there is often a bay of quiet water, in which a landing can be made with ease. Sometimes 154 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. the water descends with, a smooth, unruffled surface from the broad, quiet spread above into the narrow, angry channel below by a semi- circular sag. Great care must be taken not to pass over the brink into this deceptive pit, but above it we can row with safety. I walk along the bank to examine the ground, leaving one of my men with a flag to guide the other boats to the landing-place. I soon see one of the boats make shore all right, and feel no more concern ; but a minute after, I hear a shout, and, looking around, see one of the boats shooting down the center of the sag. It is the "No Name," with Captain Howland, his brother, and Goodman. I feel that its going over is inevitable, and run to save the third boat. A minute more, and she turns the point and heads for the shore. Then I turn down stream again and scramble along to look for the boat that has gone over. The first fall is not great, only 10 or 12 feet, and we often run such ; but below, the river tumbles down again for 40 or 50 feet, in a channel filled with dangerous rocks that break the waves into whirlpools and beat them into foam. I pass around a great crag just in time to see the boat strike a rock and, rebounding from the shock, careen and fill its open compartment with water. Two of the men lose their oars ; she swings around and is carried down at a rapid rate, broadside on, for a few yards, when, striking amidships on another rock with great force, she is broken quite in two and the men are thrown into the river. But the larger part of the boat floats buoyantly, and they soon seize it, and down the river they drift, past the rocks for a few hundred yards, to a second rapid filled with huge boulders, where the boat strikes again and is dashed to pieces, and the men and fragments are soon carried beyond my sight. Eunning along, I turn a bend and see a man's head above the water, washed about in a whirlpool below a great rock. It is Frank Goodman, clinging to the rock with a grip upon which life depends. Coming opposite, I see Howland trying to go to his aid from an island on which he has been washed. Soon he comes near enough to reach Frank with a pole, which he extends toward him. The latter lets go the rock, grasps the pole, and is pulled ashore. Seneca Howland is washed farther down the island and is caught by some rocks, and, though somewhat bruised, manages to get ashore in safety. This seems a long time as I tell it, but it is quickly done. THE CANYON OF LODORE. 155 And now the three men are on an island, with a swift, dangerous river on either side and a fall below. The "Enrnia Dean" is soon brought down, and Sumner, starting above as far as possible, pushes WRECK AT DISASTER FALLS. out. Eight skillfully he plies the oars, and a few strokes set him on the island at the proper point. Then they all pull the boat up stream as far as they are able, until they stand in water up to their necks. One 156 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. sits on a rock and holds the boat until the others are ready to pull, then gives the boat a push, clings to it with his hands, and climbs in as they pull for mainland, which they reach in safety. We are as glad to shake hands with them as though they had been on a voyage around the world and wrecked on a distant coast. Down the river half a mile we find that the after cabin of the METALLIFEROUS VEINS EXPOSED TO VIEW. wrecked boat, with a part of the bottom, ragged and splintered, has floated against a rock and stranded. There are valuable articles in the cabin 5 but, on examination, we determine that life should not THE CANYON OF LODORE. 157 be risked to save them. Of course, the cargo of rations, instruments, and clothing is gone. We return to the "boats and make camp for the night. No sleep comes to me in all those dark hours. The rations, instruments, and clothing have been divided among the boats, anticipating such an accident as this 5 and we started with duplicates of everything that was deemed necessary to success. But, in the distribution, there was one exception to this precaution— the barometers were all placed in one boat, and they are lost ! There is a ^possibility that they are in the cabin lodged against the rock, for that is where they were kept. But, then, how to reach them? The river is rising. Will they be there to-morrow? Can I go out to Salt Lake City and obtain barometers from New York f June 10. — I have determined to get the barometers from the wreck, if they are there. After breakfast, while the men make the portage, I go down again for another examination, There the cabin lies, only carried 50 or 60 feet farther on. Carefully looking over the ground, I am satis- fied that it can be reached with safety, and return to tell the men my conclusion. Sumner and Dunn volunteer to take the little boat and make the attempt. They start, reach it, and out come the barome- ters ! The boys set up a shout, and I join them, pleased that they should be as glad as myself to save the instruments. When the boat lands on our side, I find that the only things saved from the wreck were the barometers, a package of thermometers, and a three-gallon keg of whiskey. The last is what the men were shouting about. They had taken it aboard unknown to me, and now I am glad they did take it, for it will do them good, as they are drenched every day by the melting snow which runs down from the summits of the Eocky Moun- tains. We come back to our work at the portage and find that it is necessary to carry our rations over the rocks for nearly a mile and to let our boats down with lines, except at a few points, where they also must be carried. Between the river and the eastern wall of the canyon there is an immense talus of broken rocks. These have tumbled down from the cliffs above and constitute a vast pile of huge angular fragments. On these we build a path for a quarter of a mile to a small sand-beach covered with driftwood, through which we clear a way for several 158 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. hundred yards, then continue the trail over another pile of rocks nearly half a mile farther down, to a little bay. The greater part of the day is spent in this work. Then we carry our cargoes down to the beach and camp for the night. While the men are building the camp fire, we discover an iron bake-oven, several tin plates, a part of a boat, and many other frag- ments, which denote that this is the place where Ashley's party was wrecked. June 11. — This day is spent in carrying our rations down to the bay — no small task, climbing over the rocks with sacks of flour and bacon. We carry them by stages of about 500 yards each, and when night comes and the last sack is on the beach, we are tired, bruised, and glad to sleep. June 12. — To-day we take the boats down to the bay. While at this work we discover three sacks of flour from the wrecked boat that have lodged in the rocks. We carry them above high-water mark and leave them, as our cargoes are already too heavy for the three remaining boats. We also find two or three oars, which we place with them. As Ashley and his party were wrecked here and as we have lost one of our boats at the same place, we adopt the name Disaster Falls for the sceue of so much peril and loss. Though some of his companions were drowned, Ashley and one other survived the wreck, climbed the canyon wall, and found their way across the Wasatch Mountains to Salt Lake City, living chiefly on berries, as they wandered through an unknown and difficult country. When they arrived at Salt Lake they were almost destitute of clothing and nearly starved. The Mormon people gave them food and cloth- ing and employed them to work on the foundation of the Temple until they had earned sufficient to enable them to leave the country. Of their subsequent history, I have no knowledge. It is possible they returned to the scene of the disaster, as a little creek entering the river below is known as Ashley's Creek, and it is reported that he built a cabin and trapped on this river for one or two winters ; but this may have been before the disaster. June 13. — Eocks, rapids, and portages still. We camp to-uight at THE CANYON" OF LODORE. 159 the foot of the left fall, on a little patch of flood plain covered with a dense growth of box-elders, stopping early in order to spread the clothing and rations to dry. Every- thing is wet and spoiling. June 14- — Howland and I climb the wall on the west side of the canyon to an alti- tude of 2,000 feet. Standing above and looking to the west, we discover a large park, five or six miles wide and twenty or thirty long. The cliff we have climbed forms a wall be- tween the canyon and the park, for it is 800 feet down the western side to the valley. A creek comes winding down 1,200 feet above the river, and, entering the intervening wall by a canyon, plunges down more than 1,000 feet, by a broken cascade, into the river below. June 15. — To-day, while we make another portage, a peak, standing on the east wall, is climbed by two of the men and found to be 2,700 feet above the river. On the east side of the canyon a vast amphitheater has been cut, with massive buttresses and deep, dark alcoves in which WINNIE'S GROTTO, A SIDE CANYON. 160 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. grow beautiful mosses and delicate ferns, while springs burst out from the farther recesses and wind in silver threads over floors of sand rock. Here we have three falls in close succession. At the first the water is compressed into a very narrow channel against the right-hand cliff, and falls 15 feet in 10 yards. At the second we have a broad sheet of water tumbling down 20 feet over a group of rocks that thrust their dark heads through the foam. The third is a broken fall, or short, abrupt rapid, where the water makes a descent of more than 20 feet among huge, fallen fragments of the cliff. We name the group Triplet Falls. We make a portage around the first ; past the second and the third we let down with lines. During the afternoon, Dunn and Howland having returned from their climb, we run down three quarters of a mile on quiet waters and land at the head of another fall. On examination, we find that there is an abrupt plunge of a few feet and then the river tumbles for half a mile with a descent of a hundred feet, in a channel beset with great numbers of huge boulders. This stretch of the river is named Hell's Half- Mile. The remaining portion of the day is occupied in making a trail among the rocks at the foot of the rapid. June 16. — Our first work this morning is to carry our cargoes to the foot of the falls. Then we commence letting down the boats. We take two of them down in safety, but not without great difficulty ; for, where such a vast body of water, rolling down an inclined plane, is broken into eddies and cross-currents by rocks projecting from the cliffs and piles of boulders in the channel, it requires excessive labor and much care to prevent the boats from being dashed against the rocks or breaking away. Sometimes we are compelled to hold the boat against a rock above a chute until a second line, attached to the stem, is carried to some point below, and when all is ready the first line is detached and the boat given to the current, when she shoots down and the men below swing her into some eddy. At such a place we are letting down the last boat, and as she is set free a wave turns her broadside down the stream, with the stem, to which the line is attached, from shore and a little up. They haul on the line to bring the boat in, but the power of the current, striking obliquely against her, shoots her out into the middle of the river. The THE CANYON OF I.ODOKE. 161 men have their hands "burned with the friction of the passing line ; the boat breaks away and speeds with great velocity down the stream. The "Maid of the Canyon v is lost! So it seems 5 but she drifts ERODED TOWERS CAPPED WITH LARGE BLOCKS OF SANDSTONE. some distance and swings into an eddy, in which she spins about until we arrive with the small boat and rescue her. Soon we are on our way again, and stop at the mouth of a little brook on the right for a late dinner. This brook comes down from the distant 162 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. mountains in a deep side canyon. We set out to explore it, but are soon cut off from farther progress up the gorge by a high rock, over which the brook glides in a smooth sheet. The rock is not quite vertical, and the water does not plunge over it in a fall. Then we climb up to the left for an hour, and are 1,000 feet above the river and 600 above the brook. Just before us the canyon divides, a little stream coming down on the right and another on the left, and we can look away up either of these canyons, through an ascending vista, to cliffs and crags and towers a mile back and 2, 000 feet overhead. To the right a dozen gleaming cascades are seen. Pines and firs stand on the rocks and aspens overhang the brooks. The rocks below are red and brown, set in deep shadows, but above they are buff and vermilion and stand in the sunshine. The light above, made more brilliant by the bright-tinted rocks, and the shadows below, more gloomy FIRE IN CAMP. by reason of the somber hues of the brown walls, increase the apparent depths of the canyons, and it seems a long way up to the world of sunshine and open sky, and a long way down to the bottom of the THE CANYON OF LODORE. 163 canyon glooms. Never before have I received such an impression of the vast heights of these canyon walls, not even at the Cliff of the Harp, where the very heavens seemed to rest on their summits. We sit on some overhanging rocks and enjoy the scene for a time, listening to the music of the falling waters away up the canyon. We name this Eippling Brook. Late in the afternoon we make a short run to the mouth of another little creek, coming down from the left into an alcove filled with luxuriant vegetation. Here camp is made, with a group of cedars on one side and a dense mass of box-elders and dead willows on the other. I go up to explore the alcove. While away a whirlwind comes and scatters the fire among the dead willows and cedar-spray, and soon there is a conflagration. The men rush for the boats, leaving all they cannot readily seize at the moment, and even then they have their clothing burned and hair singed, and Bradley has his ears scorched. The cook fills his arms with the mess-kit, and jumping into a boat, stumbles and falls, and away go our cooking utensils into the river. Our plates are gone ; our spoons are gone ; our knives and forks are gone. " Water catch 'em j h-e-a-p catch 'em." When on the boats, the men are compelled to cut loose, as the flames, running out on the overhanging willows, are scorching them. Loose on the stream, they must go down, for the water is too swift to make headway against it. Just below is a rapid, filled with rocks. On the shoot, no channel explored, no signal to guide them ! Just at this juncture I chance to see them, but have not yet discovered the fire, and the strange movements of the men fill me with astonishment. Down the rocks I clamber, and run to the bank. When I arrive they have landed. Then we all go back to the late camp to see if anything left behind can be saved. Some of the clothing and bedding taken out of the boats is found, also a few tin cups, basins, and a camp kettle ; and this is all the mess-kit we now have. Yet we do just as well as ever. June 17. — We run down to the mouth of Yampa Biver. This has been a chapter of disasters and toils, notwithstanding which the Canyon of Lodore was not devoid of scenic interest, even beyond the power «Mm mrmmjm m THE CANYON OF LODOEE. 165 of pen to tell. The roar of its waters was heard unceasingly from the hour we entered it until we landed here. No quiet in all that time. But its walls and cliffs, its peaks and crags, its amphitheaters and alcoves, tell a story of beauty and grandeur that I hear yet — and shall hear. The Canyon of Lodore is 20f miles in length. It starts abruptly at what we have called the Gate of Lodore, with walls nearly 2, 000 feet high, and they are never lower than this until we reach Alcove Brook, about three miles above the foot. They are very irregular, standing in vertical or overhanging cliffs in places, terraced in others, or receding in steep slopes, and are broken by many side gulches and canyons. The highest point on the wall is at Dunn's Cliff, near Triplet Falls, where the rocks reach an altitude of 2, 700 feet, but the peaks a little way back rise nearly 1,000 feet higher. Yellow pines, nut pines, firs, and cedars stand in extensive forests on the Uinta Mountains, and, clinging to the rocks and growing in the crevices, come down the walls to the water's edge from Flaming Gorge to Echo Park. The red sandstones are lichened over j delicate mosses grow in the moist places, and ferns festoon the walls. CHAPTER VIII. FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF THE UINTA RIVER. THE Yampa enters the Green from the east. At a point opposite its mouth the Green runs to the south, at the foot of a rock about 700 feet high and a mile long, and then turns sharply around the rock to the right and runs back in a northerly course parallel to its former direction for nearly another mile, thus having the opposite sides of a long, narrow rock for its bank. The tongue of rock so formed is a peninsular precipice with a mural escarpment along its whole course on the east, but broken down at places on the west. On the east side of the river, opposite the rock and below the Yampa, there is a little park, just large enough for a farm, already fenced with high walls of gray homogeneous sandstone. There are three river entrances to this park : one down the Yampa ; one below, by coming up the Green ; and another down the Green. There is also a land entrance down a lateral canyon. Elsewhere the park is inaccessible. Through this land entrance by the side canyon there is a trail made by Indian hunters, who come down here in certain seasons to kill mountain sheep. Great hollow domes are seen in the eastern side of the rock, against which the Green sweeps ; willows border the river 5 clumps of box-elder are seen ; and a few cottonwoods stand at the lower end. Standing opposite the rock, our words are repeated with startling clearness, but in a soft, mellow tone, that transforms them into magical music. Scarcely can one believe it is the echo of his own voice. In some places two or three echoes come back ; in other places they repeat them- selves, passing back and forth across the river between this rock and the eastern wall. To hear these repeated echoes well, we must shout. Some of the party aver that ten or twelve repetitions can be heard. To 168 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. me, they seern rapidly to diminish and merge by multiplicity, like telegraph poles on an outstretched plain. I have observed the same phenomenon once before in the cliffs near Long's Peak, and am pleased to meet with it again. During the afternoon Bradley and I climb some cliffs to the north. Mountain sheep are seen above us, and they stand out on the rocks and eye us intently, not seeming to move. Their color is much like that of the gray sandstone beneath them, and, immovable as they are, they appear like carved forms. Now a fine ram beats the rock with his fore foot, and, wheeling around, they all bound away together, leaping over rocks and chasms and climbing walls where no man can follow, and this with an ease and grace most wonderful. At night we return to our camp under the box-elders by the river side. Here we are to spend two or three days, making a series of astronomic observations for latitude and longitude. June 18. — We have named the long peninsular rock on the other side Echo Eock. Desiring to climb it, Bradley and I take the little boat and pull up stream as far as possible, for it cannot be climbed directly opposite. We land on a talus of rocks at the upper end in order to reach a place where it seems practicable to make the ascent ; but we find we must go still farther up the river. So we scramble along, until we reach a place where the river sweeps against the wall. Here we find a shelf along which we can pass, and now are ready for the climb. We start up a gulch 5 then pass to the left on a bench along the wall $ then up again over broken rocks $ then we reach more benches, along which we walk, until we find more broken rocks and crevices, by which We climb j still up, until we have ascended 600 or 800 feet, when we are met by a sheer precipice. Looking about, we find a place where it seems possible to climb. I go ahead ; Bradley hands the barometer to me, and follows. So we proceed, stage by stage, until we are nearly to the summit. Here, by making a spring, I gain a foothold in a little crevice, and grasp an angle of the rock overhead. I find I can get up no farther and cannot step back, for I dare not let go with my hand and cannot reach foothold below without. I call to Bradley for help. He finds a way by which he can get to the top of the FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. 169 rock over my head, but can- not reach me. Then he looks around for some stick or limb of a tree, but finds none. Then he suggests that he would better help me with the barometer case, but I fear I cannot hold on to it. The moment is critical. Standing on my toes, my muscles begin to tremble. It is sixty or eighty feet to the foot of the precipice. If I lose my hold I shall fall to the bottom and then perhaps roll over the bench and tumble still farther down the cliff. At this in- stant it occurs to Bradley to take off his drawers, which he does, and swings them down to me. I hug close to the rock, let go with my hand, seize the dangling legs, and with his assistance am enabled to gain the top. Then we walk out on the peninsular rock, make the necessary observations for de- termining its altitude above camp, and return, finding an easy way down. June 19. — To-day, Howland, Bradley, and I take the "Emma Dean " and start up the Yampa River. The stream is much swollen, the cur- rent swift, and we are able to make but slow progress against it. The canyon in this part of the course of the Yampa is cut through light gray sandstone. The river is very winding, and the swifter water is usually THE RESCUE. 170 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. found on the outside of the curve, sweeping against vertical cliffs often a thousand feet high. In the center of these curves, in many places, the rock above overhangs the river. On the opposite side the walls are broken, craggy, and sloping, and occasionally side canyons enter. When we have rowed until we are quite tired we stop and take advantage of one of these broken places to climb out of the canyon. When above, we can look up the Yampa for a distance of several miles. From the summit of the immediate walls of the canyon the rocks rise gently back for a distance of a mile or two, having the appearance of a valley with an irregular and rounded sandstone floor and in the ECHO PARK. center a deep gorge, which is the canyon. The rim of this valley on the north is from 2,500 to 3,000 feet above the river ; on the south it is not so high. A number of peaks stand on this northern rim, the highest of which has received the name Mount Dawes. Late in the afternoon we descend to our boat and return to camp in Echo Park, gliding down in twenty minutes on the rapid river, a distance of four or five miles, which was made up stream only by several hours' hard rowing in the morning. June 20. — This morning two of the men take me up the Yampa for a short distance, and I go out to climb. Having reached the top of FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIYER. 171 the canyon, I walk over long stretches of naked sandstone, crossing gulches now and then, and by noon reach the summit of Mount Dawes. From this point I can look away to the north and see in the dim distance the Sweetwater and Wind River mountains, more than 100 miles away. To the northwest the Wasatch Mountains are in view, and peaks of the Uinta. To the east I can see the western slopes of the Eocky Mountains, FRAGMENT OF WALL, ZUNI. more than 150 miles distant. The air is singularly clear to-day ; moun- tains and buttes stand in sharp outline, valleys stretch out in per- spective, and I can look down into the deep canyon gorges and see gleaming waters. Descending, I cross to a ridge near the brink of the Canyon of Lodore, the highest point of which is nearly as high as the last mentioned mountain. Late in the afternoon I stand on this elevated 172 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. point and discover a monument that has evidently been built by human hands. A few plants are growing in the joints between the rocks, and all are lichened over to a greater or less extent, giving evidence L_ KIVAS OF SHUMOPAVI. that the pile was built a long time ago. This line of peaks, the eastern extension of the Uinta Mountains, has received the name of Sierra Escalante, in honor of a Spanish priest who traveled in this region of country nearly a century ago. Perchance the reverend father built this monument. Now I return to the river and discharge my gun, as a signal for the boat to come and take me down to camp. While we have been in the park the men have succeeded in catching a number of fish, and we have an abundant supply. This is a delightful addition to our menu. June 21. — We float around the long rock and enter another canyon. The walls are high and vertical, the canyon is narrow, and the river FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. 173 fills the whole space below, so that there is no landing-place at the foot of the cliff. The Green is greatly increased by the Yampa, and we now have a mnch larger river. All this volume of water, confined, as it is, in a narrow channel and rushing with great velocity, is set eddying and spinning in whirlpools by projecting rocks and short curves, and the waters waltz their way through the canyon, making their own rippling, rushing, roaring music. The canyon is much narrower than any we have seen. We manage our boats with difficulty. They spin about from side to side and we know not where we are going, and find it impossible to keep them headed down the stream. At first this causes us great alarm, but we soon find there is little danger, and that there is a general movement or progression down the river, to which this whirling is but an adjunct — that it is the merry mood ■ Srx^*^* ? - ... "*^£^fe^5t GENERAL VIEW OF AWATTJBI. of the river to dance through this deep, dark gorge, and right gaily do we join in the sport. But soon our revel is interrupted by a cataract j its roaring command is heeded by all our power at the oars, and we pull against the whirling current. The "Emma Dean" is brought up against a cliff 174 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. about 50 feet above the brink of the fall. By vigorously plying the oars on the side opposite the wall, as if to pull up stream, we can hold her against the rock. The boats behind are signaled to land where they can. The "Maid of the Canyon" is pulled to the left wall, and, by constant rowing, they can hold her also. The " Sister" is run into an alcove on the right, where an eddy is in a dance, and in this she joins. Now my little boat is held against the wall only by the utmost exertion, and it is impossible to make headway against the current. On examination, I find a horizontal crevice in the rock, about 10 feet above the water and a boat's length below us ; so we let her down to that point. One of the men clambers into the crevice, into which he can just crawl ; we toss him the line, which he makes fast in the rocks, and now our boat is tied up. Then I follow into the crevice and we crawl along up stream a distance of 50 feet or more, and find a broken place where we can climb about 50 feet higher. Here we stand on a shelf that passes along down stream to a point above the falls, where it is broken down, and a pile of rocks, over which we can descend to the river, is lying against the foot of the cliff. It has been mentioned that one of the boats is on the other side. I signal for the men to pull her up alongside of the wall, but it cannot be done ; then to cross. This they do, gaining the wall on our side just above where the "Emma Dean" is tied. The third boat is out of sight, whirling in the eddy of a recess. Looking about, I find another horizontal crevice, along which I crawl to a point just over the water where this boat is lying, and, calling loud and long, I finally succeed in making the crew understand that I want them to bring the boat down, hugging the wall. This they accomplish by taking advantage of every crevice and knob on the face of the cliff, so that we have the three boats together at a point a few yards above the falls. Now, by passing a line up on the shelf, the boats can be let down to the broken rocks below. This we do, and, making a short portage, our troubles here are over. Below the falls the canyon is wider, and there is more or less space between the river and the walls ; but the stream, though wide, is rapid, and rolls at a fearful rate among the rocks. We proceed with great caution, and run the large boats wholly by signal. FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. 175 At night we camp at the mouth of a small creek, which affords us a good supper of trout. In camp to-night we discuss the propriety SWALLOW CAVE. of several different names for this canyon. At the falls encountered at noon its characteristics change suddenly. Above, it is very narrow, and the walls are almost vertical ; below, the canyon is much wider 176 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. and more flaring, and high np on the sides crags, pinnacles, and towers are seen. A number of wild and narrow side canyons enter, and the walls are much broken. After many suggestions our choice rests between two names, Whirlpool Canyon and Craggy Canyon, neither of which is strictly appropriate for both parts of it ; so we leave the discussion at this point, with the understanding that it is best, before finally deciding on a name, to wait until we see what the character of the canyon is below. June 22. — Still making short portages and letting down with lines. While we are waiting for dinner to-day, I climb a point that gives me a good view of the river for two or three miles below, and I think we can make a long run. After dinner we start j the large boats are to follow in fifteen minutes and look out for the signal to land. Into the middle of the stream we row, and down the rapid river we glide, only making strokes enough with the oars to guide the boat. What a headlong ride it is ! shooting past rocks and islands. I am soon filled with exhilaration only experienced before in riding a fleet horse over the outstretched prairie. One, two, three, four miles we go, rearing and plunging with the waves, until we wheel to the right into a beautiful park and land on an island, where we go into camp. An hour or two before sunset I cross to the mainland and climb a point of rocks where I can overlook the park and its surroundings. On the east it is bounded by a high mountain ridge. A semicircle of naked hills bounds it on the north, west, and south. The broad, deep river meanders through the park, interrupted by many wooded islands ; so I name it Island Park, and decide to call the canyon above, Whirlpool Canyon. June 23. — We remain in camp to-day to repair our boats, which have had hard knocks and are leaking. Two of the men go out with the barometer to climb the cliff at the foot of Whirlpool Canyon and measure the walls ; another goes on the mountain to hunt ; and Bradley and I spend the day among the rocks, studying an interesting geologic fold and collecting fossils. Late in the afternoon the hunter returns and brings with him a fine, fat deer ; so we give his name to the mountain — Mount Hawkins. Just before night we move camp to the lower end of the park, floating down the river about four miles. FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. 177 June 24.. — Bradley and I start early to climb the mountain ridge to the east, and find its summit to be nearly 3,000 feet above camp. It has required some labor to scale it ; but on its top, what a view ! There is a long spur running out from the Uinta Mountains toward the south, and the river runs lengthwise through it. Coming down Lodore VIEW OF SHUMOPAVI. and Whirlpool canyons, we cut through the southern slope of the Uinta Mountains ; and the lower end of this latter canyon runs into the spur, but, instead of splitting it the whole length, the river wheels to the right at the foot of Whirlpool Canyon in a great curve to the northwest through Island Park. At the lower end of the park, the river 178 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. RUINS. turns again to the southeast and cuts into the mountain to its center and then makes a detour to the southwest; splitting the mountain ridge for a distance of six miles nearly to its foot, and then turns out of it to the left. All this we can see where we stand on the summit of Mount Hawkins, and so we name the gorge below, Split Mountain Canyon. We are standing 3, 000 feet above the waters, which are troubled with billows and are white with foam. The walls are set with crags and peaks and buttressed towers and overhanging domes. Turning to the right, the park is below us, its island groves reflected by the deep, quiet waters. Eich meadows stretch out on either hand to the verge of a sloping plain that comes down from the distant mountains. These plains are of almost naked rock, in strange contrast to the meadows, — blue and lilac colored rocks, buff and pink, vermilion and brown, FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. 170 and all these colors clear and bright. A dozen little creeks, dry the greater part of the year ; run down through the half circle of exposed formations, radiating from the island center to the rim of the basin. Each creek has its system of side streams and each side stream has its system of laterals, and again these are divided ; so that this out- stretched slope of rock is elaborately embossed. Beds of different- colored formations run in parallel bands on either side. The perspective, modified by the undulations, gives the bands a waved appearance, and the high colors gleam in the midday sun with the luster of satin. We are tempted to call this Eainbow Park. Away beyond these beds are the Uinta and Wasatch mountains with their pine forests and snow fields and naked peaks. Now we turn to the right and look up Whirlpool Canyon, a deep gorge with a river at the bottom — a gloomy chasm, where mad waves roar ; but at this distance and altitude the river is but a rippling brook, and the chasm a narrow cleft. The top of the mountain on which we stand is a broad, grassy table, and a herd RUINS. 180 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. of deer are feeding in the distance. Walking over to the southeast, we look down into the valley of White Biver, and beyond that see the far-distant Eocky Mountains, in mellow, perspective haze, through which snow fields shine. June 25. — This morning we enter Split Mountain Canyon, sailing in through a broad, flaring, brilliant gateway. We run two or three rapids, after they have been carefully examined. Then we have a series of six or eight, over which we are compelled to pass by letting the boats down with lines. This occupies the entire day, and we camp at night at the mouth of a great cave. The cave is at the foot of one of these rapids, and the waves dash in nearly to its end. We can pass along a little shelf at the side until we reach the back part. Swallows have built their nests in the ceiling, and they wheel in, chattering and scolding at our intrusion ; but their clamor is almost drowned by the noise of the waters. Looking out of the cave, we can see, far up the river, a line of crags standing sentinel on either side, and Mount Hawkins in the distance. June 26. — The forenoon is spent in getting our large boats over the rapids. This afternoon we find three falls in close succession. We carry our rations over the rocks and let our boats shoot over the falls, checking and bringing them to land with lines in the eddies below. At three o'clock we are all aboard again. Down the river we are carried by the swift waters at great speed, sheering around a rock now and then with a timely stroke or two of the oars. At one point the river turns from left to right, in a direction at right angles to the canyon, in a long chute and strikes the right, where its waters are heaped up in great billows that tumble back in breakers. We glide into the chute before we see the danger, and it is too late to stop. Two or three hard strokes are given on the right and we pause for an instant, expecting to be dashed against the rock. But the bow of the boat leaps high on a great wave, the rebounding waters hurl us back, and the peril is past. The next moment the other boats are hurriedly signaled to land on the left. Accomplishing this, the men walk along the shore, holding the boats near the bank, and let them drift around. Starting again, we soon debouch into a beautiful valley, glide down its length for 10 miles, and camp under a grand FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA EIVER. 181 old Cottonwood. This is evidently a frequent resort for Indians. Tent poles are lying about, and the dead embers of late camp fires are seen. On the plains to the left, antelope are feeding. ]S T ow and then a wolf is seen, and after dark they make the air resound with their howling. June 27.— Now our way is along a gently flowing river, beset with INDIAN LODGE IN THE UINTA VADDEY. many islands; groves are seen on either side, and natural meadows, where herds of antelope are feeding. Here and there we have views of the distant mountains on the right. During the afternoon we make a long detour to the west and return again to a point not more than half a mile from where we started at noon, and here we camp for the night under a high bluff. June 28.— To-day the scenery on either side of the river is much 182 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. the same as that of yesterday, except that two or three lakes are dis- covered, lying in the valley to the west. After dinner we run but a few minutes when we discover the mouth of the Uinta, a river coming in from the west. Up the valley of this stream about 40 miles the reser- vation of the Uinta Indians is situated. We propose to go there and see if we can replenish our mess-kit, and perhaps send letters to friends. We also desire to establish an astronomic station here ; and hence this will be our stopping place for several days. Some years ago Captain Berthoud surveyed a stage route from Salt Lake City to Denver, and this is the place where he crossed the Green Eiver. His party was encamped here for some time, constructing a ferry boat and opening a road. A little above the mouth of the Uinta, on the west side of the Green, there is a lake of several thousand acres. We carry our boat across the divide between this and the river, have a row on its quiet waters, and succeed in shooting several ducks. June 29. — A mile and three quarters from here is the junction of the White Eiver with the Green. The White has its source far to the east in the Eocky Mountains. This morning I cross the Green and go over into the valley of the White and extend my walk several miles along its winding way, until at last I come in sight of some strangely carved rocks, named by General Hughes, in his journal, " Goblin City." Our last winter's camp was situated a hundred miles above the point reached to-day. The course of the river, for much of the distance, is through canyons ; but at some places valleys are found. Excepting these little valleys, the region is one of great desola- tion : arid, almost treeless, with bluffs, hills, ledges of rock, and drift- ing sands. Along the course of the Green, however, from the foot of Split Mountain Canyon to a point some distance below the mouth of the Uinta, there are many groves of Cottonwood, natural meadows, and rich lands. This arable belt extends some distance up the White Eiver on the east and the Uinta on the west, and the time must soon come when settlers will penetrate this country and make homes. June SO. — We have a row up the Uinta to-day, but are not able to make much headway against the swift current, and hence conclude we must walk all the way to the agency. FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. 183 July 1. — Two days have been employed in obtaining the local time, taking observations for latitude and longitude, and making excursions into the adjacent country. This morning, with two of the men, I start for the agency. It is a toilsome walk, 20 miles of the distance being across a sand desert. Occasionally we have to wade the river, crossing it back and forth. Toward evening we cross several beautiful streams, WARRIOR AND BRIDE. tributaries of the Uinta, and pass through pine groves and meadows, arriving at the reservation just at dusk. Captain Dodds, the agent, is away, having gone to Salt Lake City, but his assistants receive us very kindly. It is rather pleasant to see a house once more, and some evidences of civilization, even if it is on an Indian reservation several days' ride from the nearest home of the white man. July 2. — I go this morning to visit Tsauwiat. This old chief is 184 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. but the wreck of a man, and no longer has influence. Looking at him one can scarcely realize that he is a man. His skin is shrunken, wrinkled, and dry, and seems to cover no more than a form of "bones. He is said to be more than 100 years old. I talk a little with him, but his conversation is incoherent, though he seems to take pride in showing me some medals that must have been given him many years ago. He has a pipe which he says he has used a long time. I offer to exchange with him, and he seems to be glad to accept ; so I add another to my collection of pipes. His wife, "The Bishop," as she is called, is a very garrulous old woman ; she exerts a great influence, and is much revered. She is the only Indian woman I have known to occupy a place in the council ring. She seems very much younger than her husband, and, though wrinkled and ugly, is still vigorous. She has much to say to me concerning the condition of the people, and seems very anxious that they should learn to cultivate the soil, own farms, and live like white men. After talking a couple of hours with these old people, I go to see the farms. They are situated in a very beautiful district, where many fine streams of water meander across alluvial plains and meadows. These creeks have a considerable fall, and it is easy to take their waters out above and overflow the lands with them. It will be remembered that irrigation is necessary in this dry climate to successful farming. Quite a number of Indians have each a patch of ground of two or three acres, on which they are raising wheat, potatoes, turnips, pumpkins, melons, and other vegetables. Most of the crops are looking well, and it is rather surprising with what pride they show us that they are able to cultivate crops like white men. They are still occupying lodges, and refuse to build houses, assigning as a reason that when any one dies in a lodge it is always abandoned, and very often burned with all the effects of the deceased ; and when houses have been built for them the houses have been treated in the same way. "With their unclean habits, a fixed residence would doubtless be no pleasant place. This beautiful valley has been the home of a people of a higher grade of civilization than the present Utes. Evidences of this are quite abundant j on our way here yesterday we discovered fragments PROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. 185 of pottery in many places along the trail ; and, wandering about the little farms to-day, I find the foundations of ancient houses, and mealing-stones that were not used by nomadic people, as they are too heavy to be transported by such tribes, and are deeply worn. The OUR INTERPRETER AND HIS FAMILY. Indians, seeing that I am interested in these matters, take pains to show me several other places where these evidences remain, and tell me that they know nothing about the people who formerly dwelt here. They further tell me that up in the canyon the rocks are covered with pictures. July 5. — The last two days have been spent in studying the language FROM ECHO PARK TO THE MOUTH OF UINTA RIVER. 187 of the Indians and in making collections of articles illustrating the state of arts among them. Frank Goodman informs me this morning that he has concluded not to go on with the party, saying that he has seen danger enough. It will be remembered that he was one of the crew on the "No Name" when she was wrecked. As our boats are rather heavily loaded, I am content that he should leave, although he has been a faithful man. We start early on our return to the boats, taking horses with us from the reservation, and two Indians, who are to bring the animals back. Whirlpool Canyon is 14 J miles in length, the walls varying from 1, 800 to 2, 400 feet in height. The course of the river through Island Park is 9 miles. Split Mountain Canyon is 8 miles long. The highest crags on its walls reach an altitude above the river of from 2,500 to 2,700 feet. In these canyons cedars only are found on the walls. The distance by river from the foot of Split Mountain Canyon to the mouth of the Uinta is 67 miles. The valley through which it runs is the home of many antelope, and we have adopted for it the Indian name Won'sits Yuav — Antelope Valley. CHAPTER IX. FROM THE MOUTH OF THE UINTA RIVER TO THE JUNCTION" OF THE GRAND AND GREEN. JULY 6. — An early start this morning. A short distance below the month of the Uinta we come to the head of a long island. Last winter a man named Johnson, a hunter and Indian trader, visited us at our camp in White Eiver Valley. This man has an Indian wife, and, having no fixed home, usually travels with one of the Ute bands. He informed me that it was his intention to plant some corn, potatoes, and other vegetables on this island in the spring, and, knowing that we would pass it, invited us to stop and help ourselves, even if he should not be there ; so we land and go out on the island. Looking about, we soon discover his garden, but it is in a sad condition, having received no care since it was planted. It is yet too early in the season for corn, but Hall suggests that potato tops are good greens, and, anxious for some change from our salt-meat fare, we gather a quantity and take them aboard. At noon we stop and cook our greens for dinner ; but soon one after another of the party is taken sick ; nausea first, and then severe vomiting, and we tumble around under the trees, groaning with pain. I feel a little alarmed, lest our poisoning be severe. Emetics are administered to those who are willing to take them, and about the middle of the afternoon we are all rid of the pain. Jack Sumner records in his diary that " potato tops are not good greens on the 6th day of July." This evening we enter another canyon, almost imperceptibly, as the walls rise very gently. July 7. — We find quiet water to-day, the river sweeping in great and beautiful curves, the canyon walls steadily increasing in altitude. The escarpments formed by the cut edges of the rock are often verti- cal, sometimes terraced, and in some places the treads of the terraces 190 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. are sloping. In these quiet curves vast amphitheaters are formed, now in vertical rocks, now in steps. The salient point of rock within the curve is usually broken down in a steep slope, and we stop occasionally to climb up at such a place, where on looking down we can see the river sweeping the foot of the op- posite cliff in a great, easy curve, with a perpendic- ular or terraced wall rising from the water's edge many hundreds of feet. One of these we find very symmet- rical and name it Sumner's Amphi- theater. The cliffs are rarely broken by the entrance of side canyons, and we sweep around curve after curve with almost contin- uous walls for sev- eral miles. Late in the after- noon we find the sumner's amphitheater. river very much rougher and come upon rapids, not dangerous, but still demanding close attention. "We camp at night on the right bank, having made 26 miles. July 8. — This morning Bradley and I go out to climb, and gain an altitude of more than 2,000 feet above the river, but still do not reach the summit of the wall. FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. 191 After dinner we pass through a region of the wildest desolation. The canyon is very tortuous, the river very rapid, and many lateral canyons enter on either side. These usually have their branches, so that the region is cut into a wilderness of gray and brown cliffs. In several places these lateral canyons are separated from one another only by narrow walls, often hundreds of feet high, — so narrow in places that where softer rocks are found below they have crumbled away and left holes in the wall, forming passages from one canyon into another. These we often call natural bridges ; but they were never intended to span streams. They would better, perhaps, be called side doors between canyon chambers. Piles of broken rock lie against these walls ; crags and tower-shaped peaks are seen everywhere, and away above them, long lines of broken cliffs ; and above and beyond the cliffs are pine forests, of which we obtain occasional glimpses as we look up through a vista of rocks. The walls are almost without vegetation ; a few dwarf bushes are seen here and there clinging to the rocks, and cedars grow from the crevices — not like the cedars of a land refreshed with rains, great cones bedecked with spray, but ugly clumps, like war clubs beset with spines. We are minded to call this the Canyon of Desolation. The wind annoys us much to-day. The water, rough by reason of the rapids, is made more so by head gales. Wherever a great face of rocks has a southern exposure, the rarefied air rises and the wind rushes in below, either up or down the canyon, or both, causing local currents. Just at sunset we run a bad rapid and camp at its foot. July 9. — Our run to-day is through a canyon with ragged, broken walls, many lateral gulches or canyons entering on either side. The river is rough, and occasionally it becomes necessary to use lines in passing rocky places. During the afternoon we come to a rather open canyon valley, stretching up toward the west, its farther end lost in the mountains. From a point to which we climb we obtain a good view of its course, until its angular walls are lost in the vista. July 10. — Sumner, who is a fine mechanic, is learning to take observa- tions for time with the sextant. To-day he remains in camp to practice. Howland and I determine to climb out, and start up a lateral canyon, taking a barometer with us for the purpose of measuring the thickness 192 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. of the strata over which we pass. The readings of the barometer below are recorded every half hour and our observations must be simultaneous. Where the beds which we desire to measure are very thick, we must climb with the utmost speed to reach their summits in time ; where the beds are thinner, we must wait for the moment to arrive ; and so, by hard and easy stages, we make our way to the top of the canyon wall and reach the plateau above about two o' clock. Howland, who has his gun with him, sees deer feeding a mile or two back and goes off for a hunt. I go to a peak which seems to be the highest one in this region, about half a mile distant, and climb, for the purpose of tracing the topography of the adjacent country. From this point a fine view is obtained. A long plateau stretches across the river in an easterly and westerly direction, the summit covered by pine forests, with intervening elevated valleys and gulches. The plateau itself is cut in two by the canyon. Other side canyons head away back from the river and run down into the Green. Besides these, deep and abrupt canyons are seen to head back on the plateau and run north toward the Uinta and White rivers. Still other canyons head in the valleys and run toward the south. The elevation of the plateau being about 8,000 feet above the level of the sea, it is in a region of moisture, as is well attested by the forests and grassy valleys. The plateau seems to rise gradually to the west, until it merges into the Wasatch Mountains. On these high table-lands elk and deer abound ; and they are favorite hunting grounds for the Ute Indians. A little before sunset Howland and I meet again at the head of the side canyon, and down we start. It is late, and we must make great haste or be caught by the darkness ; so we go, running where we can, leaping over the ledges, letting each other down on the loose rocks, as long as we can see. When darkness comes we are still some distance from camp, and a long, slow, anxious descent is made toward the gleam- ing camp fire. After supper, observations for latitude are taken, and only two or three hours for sleep remain before daylight. July 11. — A short distance below camp we run a rapid, and in doing so break an oar and then lose another, both belonging to the "Emma Dean." Now the pioneer boat has but two oars. We see nothing from FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. 195 which oars can be made, so we conclude to run on to some point where it seems possible to climb out to the forests on the plateau, and there we will procure suitable timber from which to make new ones. We soon approach another rapid. Standing on deck, I think it can be run, and on we go. Coming nearer, I see that at the foot it has a short turn to the left, where the waters pile up against the cliff. Here we try to land, but quickly discover that, being in swift water above the fall, we cannot reach shore, crippled as we are by the loss of two oars ; so the bow of the boat is turned down stream. "We shoot by a big rock ; a reflex wave rolls over our little boat and fills her. I see that the place is dangerous and quickly signal to the other boats to land where they can. This is scarcely completed when another wave rolls our boat over and I am thrown some distance into the water. I soon find that swim- ming is very easy and I cannot sink. It is only necessary to ply strokes sufficient to keep my head out of the water, though now and then, when a breaker rolls over me, I close my mouth and am carried through it. The boat is drifting ahead of me 20 or 30 feet, and when the great waves have passed I overtake her and find Sumner and Dunn clinging to her. As soon as we reach quiet water we all swim to one side and turn her over. In doing this, Dunn loses his hold and goes under • when he comes up he is caught by Sumner and pulled to the boat. In the meantime we have drifted down stream some distance and see another rapid below. How bad it may be we cannot tell ; so we swim toward shore, pulling our boat with us, with all the vigor possible, but are carried down much faster than distance toward shore is di- minished. At last we reach a huge pile of driftwood. Our rolls of blankets, two guns, and a barometer were in the open compartment of the boat and, when it went over, these were thrown out. The guns and barometer are lost, but I succeeded in catching one of the rolls of blankets as it drifted down, when we were swimming to shore ; the other two are lost, and sometimes hereafter we may sleep cold. A huge fire is built on the bank and our clothing spread to dry, and then from the drift logs we select one from which we think oars can be made, and the remainder of the day is sjjent in sawing them out. July 12. — This morning the new oars are finished and we start once more. We pass several bad rapids, making a short portage at one, and 196 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. before noon we come to a long, bad fall, where the channel is filled with rocks on the left which turn the waters to the right, where they pass un- der an overhanging rock. On examination we determine to run it, keeping as close to the left-hand rocks as .safety will permit, in order to avoid the overhanging cliff. The little boat runs over all right ; another follows, but the men are not able to keep her near enough to the left bank and she is carried by a swift chute into great waves to the right, where she is tossed about and Bradley is knocked over the side ; his foot catching under the seat, he is dragged along in the water with his head down ; making great exertion, he seizes the gunwale with his left hand and can lift his head above water now and then. To us who are below, it seems impossible to keep the boat from going under the overhanging cliff 5 but Powell, for the moment heedless of Bradley's mishap, pulls with all his power for half a dozen strokes, when the danger is past ; then he seizes Bradley and pulls him in. The men in the boat above, seeing this, land, and she is let down by lines. Just here we emerge from the Canyon of Desolation, as we have named it, into a more open country, which extends for a distance of nearly a mile, when we enter another canyon cut through gray sand- stone. About three o' clock in the afternoon we meet with a new difficulty. The river fills the entire channel ; the walls are vertical on either side from the water's edge, and a bad rapid is beset with rocks. We come to the head of it and land on a rock in the stream. The little boat is let down to another rock below, the men of the larger boat holding to the line ; the second boat is let down in the same way, and the line of the third boat is brought with them. Now the third boat pushes out from the upper rock, and, as we have her line below, we pull in and catch her as she is sweeping by at the foot of the rock on which we stand. Again the first boat is let down stream the full length of her line and the second boat is passed down by the first to the extent of her line, which is held by the men in the first boat ; so she is two lines' length from where she started. Then the third boat is let down past the second, and still down, nearly to the length of her line, so that she is fast to the second boat and swinging down three lines' lengths, with the other two boats intervening. Held in this way, the men FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. 197 are able to pull her into a cove in the left wall, where she is made fast. But this leaves a man on the rock above, holding to the line of the little boat. When all is ready, he springs from the rock, clinging to the line with one hand and swimming with the other, and we pull him in as he goes by. As the two boats, thus loosened, drift down, the men LIGHTHOUSE ROCK, CANYON OF DESOLATION. in the cove pull us all in as we come opposite ; then we pass around to a point of rock below the cove, close to the wall, land, make a short portage over the worst places in the rapid, and start again. At night we camp on a sand beach. The wind blows a hurricane ; the drifting sand almost blinds us ; and nowhere can we find shelter. The wind continues to blow all night, the sand sifting through our blankets 198 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. and piling over us until we are covered as in a snowdrift. We are glad when morning conies. July 13. — This morning we have an exhilarating ride. The river is swift, and there are many smooth rapids. I stand on deck, keeping careful watch ahead, and we glide along, mile after mile, plying strokes, now on the right and then on the left, just sufficient to guide our boats past the rocks into smooth water. At noon we emerge from Gray Canyon, as we have named it, and camp for dinner under a cotton- wood tree standing on the left bank. Extensive sand plains extend back from the immediate river valley as far as we can see on either side. These naked, drifting sands gleam brilliantly in the midday sun of July. The reflected heat from the glar- ing surface produces a curious motion of the atmosphere ; little currents are generated and the whole seems to be trembling and moving about in many directions, or, failing to see that the movement is in the atmos- phere, it gives the impression of an unstable land. Plains and hills and cliffs and distant mountains seem to be floating vaguely about in a trembling, wave-rocked sea, and patches of landscape seem to float away and be lost, and then to reappear. Just opposite, there are buttes, outliers of cliffs to the left. Below, they are composed of shales and marls of light blue and slate colors ; above, the rocks are buff and gray, and then brown. The buttes are buttressed below, where the azure rocks are seen, and terraced above through the gray and brown beds. A long line of cliffs or rock escarp- ments separates the table -lands through which Gray Canyon is cut, from the lower plain. The eye can trace these azure beds and cliffs on either side of the river, in a long line extending across its course, until they fade away in the perspective. These cliffs are many miles in length and hundreds of feet high ; and all these buttes — great mountain -masses of rock — are dancing and fading away and reappearing, softly moving about, — or so they seem to the eye as seen through the shifting at- mosphere. This afternoon our way is through a valley with cottonwood groves on either side. The river is deep, broad, and quiet. About two hours after noon camp we discover an Indian crossing, where a number of rafts, rudely constructed of logs and bound together by withes, are FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. 199 floating against the bank. On landing, we see evidences that a party of Indians have crossed within a very few days. This is the place where the lamented Gunnison crossed, in the year 1853, when making an ex- ploration for a railroad route to the Pacific coast. An hour later we run a long rapid and stop at its foot to examine some interesting rocks, deposited by min- eral springs that at one time must have existed here, but which are no longer flowing. July U.— This morning we pass some curious black bluffs on the right, then two or three short canyons, and then we discover the mouth of the San Eafael, a stream which comes down from the distant moun- tains in the west. Here we stop for an hour or two and take a short walk up the valley, and find it is a frequent resort for Indians. Arrowheads are scattered about, many of them very beautiful ; flint chips are strewn over the ground in great profusion, and the trails are well worn. Starting after dinner, we pass some beautiful buttes on the left, many GUNNISON BUTTE, GRAY CANYON (2,700 FEET HIGH). 200 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. of which are very symmetrical. They are chiefly composed of gypsum, of many hues, from light gray to slate color ; then pink, purple, and brown beds. Now we enter another canyon. Gradually the walls rise higher and higher as we proceed, and the summit of the canyon is formed of the same beds of orange- colored sandstone. Back from the brink the hollows of the plateau are filled with sands disintegrated from these orange beds. They are of a rich cream color, shading into maroon, everywhere destitute of vegetation, and drifted into long, wave- like ridges. The course of the river is tortuous, and it nearly doubles upon itself many times. The water is quiet, and constant rowing is necessary to make much headway. Sometimes there is a narrow flood plain between the river and the wall, on one side or the other. Where these long, gentle curves are found, the river washes the very foot of the outer wall. A long peninsula of willow-bordered meadow projects within the curve, and the talus at the foot of the cliff is usually covered with dwarf oaks. The orange -colored sandstone is homogeneous in structure, and the walls are usually vertical, though not very high. Where the river sweeps around a curve under a cliff, a vast hollow dome may be seen, with many caves and deep alcoves, which are greatly admired by the members of the party as we go by. We camp at night on the left bank. July 15. — Our camp is in a great bend of the canyon. The curve is to the west and we are on the east side of the river. Just opposite, a little stream comes down through a narrow side canyon. We cross and go up to explore it. At its mouth another lateral canyon enters, in the angle between the former and the main canyon above. Still another enters in the angle between the canyon below and the side canyon first mentioned ; so that three side canyons enter at the same point. These canyons are very tortuous, almost closed in from view, and, seen from the opposite side of the river, they appear like three alcoves. We name this Trin-Alcove Bend. Going up the little stream in the central cove, we pass between high walls of sandstone, and wind about in glens. Springs gush from the rocks at the foot of the walls ; narrow passages in the rocks are threaded, caves are entered, and many side canyons are observed. Hi w bird's-eye view of the land of the standing rocks. FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. 203 The right cove is a narrow, winding gorge, with overhanging walls, almost shutting out the light. The left is an amphitheater, turning spirally up, with overhanging shelves. A series of basins filled with water are seen at different altitudes as we pass up ; huge rocks are piled below on the right, and overhead there is an arched ceiling. After exploring these alcoves, we recross the river and climb the rounded rocks on the point of the bend. In every direction, as far as we are able to see, naked rocks appear. Buttes are scattered on the landscape, here rounded into cones, there buttressed, columned, and carved in quaint shapes, with deep alcoves and sunken recesses. All about us are basins, excavated in the soft sandstone ; and these have been filled by the late rains. Over the rounded rocks and water pockets we look off on a fine stretch of river, and beyond are naked rocks and beautiful buttes lead- ing the eye to the Azure Cliffs, and beyond these and above them the Brown Cliffs, and still beyond, mountain peaks ; and clouds piled over all. On we go, after dinner, with quiet water, still compelled to row in order to make fair progress. The canyon is yet very tortuous. About six miles below noon camp we go around a great bend to the right, five miles in length, and come back to a point within a quarter of a mile of where we started. Then we sweep around another great bend to the left, making a circuit of nine miles, and come back to a point within 600 yards of the beginning of the bend. In the two circuits we describe al- most the figure 8. The men call it a "bowknot" of river ; so we name it Bowknot Bend. The line of the figure is 14 miles in length. There is an exquisite charm in our ride to-day down this beautiful canyon. It gradually grows deeper with every mile of travel ; the walls are symmetrically curved and grandly arched, of a beautiful color, and reflected in the quiet waters in many places so as almost to deceive the eye and suggest to the beholder the thought that he is looking into pro- found depths. We are all in fine spirits and feel very gay, and the badinage of the men is echoed from wall to wall. Now and then we whistle or shout or discharge a pistol, to listen to the reverberations among the cliffs. At night we camp on the south side of the great Bowknot, and as 204 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. we eat supper, which is spread on the beach, we name this Laby- rinth Canyon. July 16. — Still we go down on our winding way. Tower cliffs are passed ; then the river widens out for several miles, and meadows are seen on either side between the river and the walls. We name this ex- pansion of the river Tower Park. At two o'clock we emerge from Labyrinth Canyon and go into camp. July 17. — The line which separates Labyrinth Canyon from the one below is but a line, and at once, this morning, we enter another canyon. The water fills the entire channel, so that nowhere is there room to land. The walls are low, but vertical, and as we proceed they gradually increase in altitude. Eunning a couple of miles, the river changes its course many degrees toward the east. Just here a little stream comes in on the right and the wall is broken down j so we land and go out to take THE BUTTE OF THE CROSS. a view of the surrounding country. "We are now down among the buttes, and in a region the surface of which is naked, solid rock — a beau- tiful red sandstone, forming a smooth, undulating pavement. The In- dians call this the Toom'pin Tuweap', or "Bock Land," and sometimes the Toom'pin wunear' Tuweap', or "Land of Standing Bock." Off to the south we see a butte in the form of a fallen cross. It is several miles away, but it presents no inconspicuous figure on the 206 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. landscape and must be many hundreds of feet high 7 probably more than 2,000. We note its position on our map and name it "The Butte of the Cross." "We continue our journey. In many places the walls, which rise from the water's edge, are overhanging on either side. The stream is still quiet, and we glide along through a strange, weird, grand region. The landscape everywhere, away from the river, is of rock — cliffs of rock, tables of rock, plateaus of rock, terraces of rock, crags of rock — ten thousand strangely carved forms ; rocks everywhere, and no vege- tation, no soil, no sand. In long, gentle curves the river winds about these rocks. When thinking of these rocks one must not conceive of piles of boul- ders or heaps of fragments, but of a whole land of naked rock, with giant forms carved on it : cathedral-shaped buttes, towering hundreds or thousands of feet, cliffs that cannot be scaled, and canyon walls that shrink the river into insignificance, with vast, hollow domes and tall pinnacles and shafts set on the verge overhead ; and all highly colored — buff, gray, red, brown, and chocolate — never lichened, never moss- covered, but bare, and often polished. We pass a place where two bends of the river come together, an inter- vening rock having been worn away and a new channel formed across. The old channel ran in a great circle around to the right, by what was once a circular peninsula, then an island ; then the water left the old channel entirely and passed through the cut, and the old bed of the river is dry. So the great circular rock stands by itself, with precipitous walls all about it, and we find but one place where it can be scaled. Looking from its summit, a long stretch of river is seen, sweeping close to the overhanging cliffs on the right, but having a little meadow between it and the wall on the left. The curve is very gentle and regu- lar. We name this Bonita Bend. And just here we climb out once more, to take another bearing on The Butte of the Cross. Beaching an eminence from which we can overlook the landscape, we are surprised to find that our butte, with its wonder- ful form, is indeed two buttes, one so standing in front of the other that from our last point of view it gave the appearance of a cross. A few miles below Bonita Bend we go out again a mile or two . V . : . ■ «--^j :•! :}3>'»' ■*. -if >.' if iLff»ft «f - .■:■:■ . ■, .■ ■■■■■■ ' ."■ ■■:■;..:'■■ : 1.4 FROM THE UINTA TO THE GRAND. 209 among the rocks, toward the Orange Cliffs, passing over terraces paved with jasper. The cliffs are not far away and we soon reach them ; and wander in some deep, painted alcoves which attracted onr attention from the river j then we return to our boats. Late in the afternoon the water becomes swift and our boats make great speed. An hour of this rapid running brings us to the junction of the Grand and Green, the foot of Stillwater Canyon, as we have named it. These streams unite in solemn depths, more than 1,200 feet below the general surface of the country. The walls of the lower end of Stillwater Canyon are very beautifully curved, as the river sweeps in its meandering course. The lower end of the canyon through which the Grand comes down is also regular, but much more direct, and we look up this stream and out into the country beyond and obtain glimpses of snow- clad peaks, the summits of a group of mountains known as the Sierra La Sal. Down the Colorado the canyon walls are much broken. We row around into the Grand and camp on its northwest bank j and here we propose to stay several days, for the purpose of deter mining the latitude and longitude and the altitude of the walls. Much of the night is spent in making observations with the sextant. The distance from the mouth of the Uinta to the head of the Canyon of Desolation is 20f miles. The Canyon of Desolation is 97 miles long ,♦ Gray Canyon, 36 miles. The course of the river through Gunnison Valley is 2 7 J- miles ; Labyrinth Canyon, 62^ miles. In the Canyon of Desolation the highest rocks immediately over the river are about 2,400 feet. This is at Log Cabin Cliff. The highest part of the terrace is near the brink of the Brown Cliffs. Climbing the immediate walls of the canyon and passing back to the canyon terrace and climbing that, we find the altitude above the river to be 3,300 feet. The lower end of Gray Canyon is about 2,000 feet ; the lower end of Labyrinth Canyon, 1,300 feet. Stillwater Canyon is 42 § miles long j the highest walls, 1,300 feet. THE HEART OF MARBLE CANYON. CHAPTER X. FROM THE JUNCTION OF THE GRAND AND GREEN TO THE MOUTH OF THE LITTLE COLORADO. JULY 18. — The day is spent in obtaining the time and spreading our rations, which we find are badly injured. The flour has been wet and dried so many times that it is all musty and full of hard lumps. We make a sieve of mosquito netting and run our flour through it, losing more than 200 pounds by the process. Our losses, by the wrecking of the "No Name/ 7 and by various mishaps since, together with the amount thrown away to-day, leave us little more than two months' supplies, and to make them last thus long we must be fortunate enough to lose no more. We drag our boats on shore and turn them over to recalk and pitch them, and Sumner is engaged in repairing barometers. While we are here for a day or two, resting, we propose to put everything in the best shape for a vigorous campaign. July 19. — Bradley and I start this morning to climb the left wall below the junction. The way we have selected is up a gulch. Climbing for an hour over and among the rocks, we find ourselves in a vast amphi- theater and our way cut off. We clamber around to the left for half an hour, until we find that we cannot go up in that direction. Then we try the rocks around to the right and discover a narrow shelf nearly half a mile long. In some places this is so wide that we pass along with ease ; in others it is so narrow and sloping that we are compelled to lie down and crawl. We can look over the edge of the shelf, down 800 feet, and see the river rolling and plunging among the rocks. Looking up 500 feet to the brink of the cliff, it seems to blend with the sky. We continue along until we come to a point where the wall is again broken down. Up we climb. On the right there is a narrow, mural point 212 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. of rocks, extending toward the river, 200 or 300 feet high and 600 or 800 feet long. We come back to where this sets in and find it cnt off from the main wall by a great crevice. Into this we pass ; and now a long 7 narrow rock is between us and the river. The rock itself is split longi- tudinally and transversely ; and the rains on the surface above have run down through the crevices and gathered into channels below and then run off into the river. The crevices are usually narrow above and, by erosion of the streams, wider below, forming a network of caves, each cave having a narrow, winding skylight up through the rocks. We wander among these corridors for an hour or two, but find no place where the rocks are broken down so that we can climb up. At last we determine to attempt a passage by a crevice, and select one which we think is wide enough to admit of the passage of our bodies and yet narrow enough to climb out by pressing our hands and feet against the walls. So we climb as men would out of a well. Bradley climbs first ; I hand him the barometer, then climb over his head and he hands me the barometer. So we pass each other alternately until we emerge from the fissure, out on the summit of the rock. And what a world of grandeur is spread before us ! Below is the canyon through which the Colorado runs. We can trace its course for miles, and at points catch glimpses of the river. From the northwest comes the Green in a narrow winding gorge. From the northeast comes the Grand, through a canyon that seems bottomless from where we stand. Away to the west are lines of cliffs and ledges of rock — not such ledges as the reader may have seen where the quarryman splits his blocks, but ledges from which the gods might quarry mountains that, rolled out on the plain below, would stand a lofty range ; and not such cliffs as the reader may have seen where the swallow builds its nest, but cliffs where the soaring eagle is lost to view ere he reaches the summit. Between us and the distant cliffs are the strangely carved and pinnacled rocks of the Toom'pin wunear' Tuweap'. On the summit of the opposite wall of the canyon are rock forms that we do not understand. Away to the east a group of eruptive mountains are seen — the Sierra La Sal, which we first saw two days ago through the canyon of the Grand. Their slopes are covered with pines, and deep gulches are flanked with great crags, and snow fields are seen near the summits. So the moun- FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 213 tains are in uniform, — green, gray, and silver. Wherever we look there is but a wilderness of rocks, — deep gorges where the rivers are lost below cliffs and towers and pinnacles, and ten thousand strangely carved forms in every direc- tion, and beyond them mountains blending with the clouds. Now we return to camp. While eating supper we very natur- ally speak of better fare, as musty bread and spoiled bacon are not palatable. Soon I see Hawkins down by the boa^ taking up the sextant — rather a strange proceeding for him — and I question him concerning it. He replies that he is trying to find the latitude and longitude of the near- est pie. July 20. — This morn- ing Captain Powell and I go out to climb the west wall of the canyon, for the purpose of ex- amining the strange rocks seen yesterday from the other side. A LATERAL CANYON. Two hours bring us to the top, at a point be- tween the Green and Colorado overlooking the junction of the rivers. A long neck of rock extends toward the mouth of the Grand. Out on this we walk, crossing a great number of deep crevices. Usually the smooth rock slopes down to the fissure on either side. Sometimes 214 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. it is an interesting question to us whether the slope is not so steep that we cannot stand on it. Sometimes, starting down, we are compelled to go on, and when we measure the crevice with our eye from above we are not always sure that it is not too wide for a jump. Probably the slopes would not be difficult if there was not a fissure at the lower end ; nor would the fissures cause fear if they were but a few feet deep. It is curious how a little obstacle becomes a great obstruction when a misstep would land a man in the bottom of a deep chasm. Climbing the face of a cliff, a man will without hesitancy walk along a step or shelf but a few inches wide if the landing is but ten feet below, but if the foot of the cliff is a thousand feet down he will prefer to crawl along the shelf. At last our way is cut off by a fissure so deep and wide that we cannot pass it. Then we turn and walk back into the country, over the smooth, naked sandstone, without vegetation, except that here and there dwarf cedars and pifion pines have found a footing in the huge cracks. There are great basins in the rock, holding water, — some but a few gallons, others hundreds of barrels. The day is spent in walking about through these strange scenes. A narrow gulch is cut into the wall of the main canyon. Follow this up and the climb is rapid, as if going up a mountain side, for the gulch heads but a few hundred or a few thousand yards from the wall. But this gulch has its side gulches, and as the summit is approached a group of radiating canyons is found. The spaces drained by these little canyons are terraced, and are, to a greater or less extent, of the form of amphitheaters, though some are oblong and some rather irregular. Usually the spaces drained by any two of these little side canyons are separated by a narrow wall, 100, 200, or 300 feet high, and often but a few feet in thickness. Sometimes the wall is broken into a line of pyramids above and still remains a wall below. There are a number of these gulches which break the wall of the main canyon of the Green, each one having its system of side canyons and amphitheaters, inclosed by walls or lines of pinnacles. The course of the Green at this point is approximately at right angles to that of the Colorado, and on the brink of the latter canyon we find the same system of terraced and walled glens. The walls and pinnacles and towers are of sandstone, homo- geneous in structure but not in color, as they show broad bands of red, FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 215 buff, and gray. This painting of the rocks, dividing them into sections, increases their apparent height. In some places these terraced and walled glens along the Colorado have coalesced with those along the Green $ that is, the intervening walls are broken down. It is very rarely that a loose rock is seen. The sand is washed off, so that the walls, terraces, and slopes of the glens are all of smooth sandstone. In the walls themselves curious caves and channels have been carved. In some places there are little stairways up the walls ; in others, the walls present what are known as royal arches ; and so we wander through glens and among pinnacles and climb the walls from early morn until late in the afternoon. July 21. — We start this morning on the Colorado. The river is rough, ?nd bad rapids in close succession are found. Two very hard portages are made during the forenoon. After dinner, in running a rapid, the "Emma Dean" is swamped and we are thrown into the river 5 we cling to the boat, and in the first quiet water below she is righted and bailed out ; but three oars are lost in this mishap. The larger boats land above the dangerous place, and we make a portage, which occupies A TUSAYAN MEALING TROUGH. all the afternoon. We camp at night on the rocks on the left bank, and can scarcely find room to lie down. July 22. — This morning we continue our journey, though short of oars. There is no timber growing on the walls within our reach and no driftwood along the banks, so we are compelled to go on until some- thing suitable can be found. A mile and three quarters below, we find 216 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. a huge pile of driftwood, among which are some Cottonwood logs. From these we select one which we think the best, and the men are set at work sawing oars. Our boats are leaking again, from the strains received in the bad rapids yesterday, so after dinner they are turned over and some of the men calk them. Captain Powell and I go out to climb the wall to the east, for we can see dwarf pines above, and it is our purpose to collect the resin which oozes from them, to use in pitching our boats. We take a barom- eter with us and find that the walls are becoming higher, for now they register an altitude above the river of nearly 1,500 feet. July 23. — On starting, we come at once to difficult rapids and falls, that in many places are more abrupt than in any of the canyons through which we have passed, and w^e decide to name this Cataract Canyon. From morning until noon the course of the river is to the west ; the scenery is grand, with rapids and falls below, and walls above, beset with crags and pinnacles. Just at noon we wheel again to the south and go into camp for dinner. While the cook is preparing it, Bradley, Captain Powell, and I go up into a side canyon that comes in at this point. We enter through a very narrow passage, having to wade along the course of a little stream until a cascade interrupts our progress. Then we climb to the right for a hundred feet until we reach a little shelf, along which we pass, walking with great care, for it is narrow ; thus we pass around the fall. Here the gorge widens into a spacious, sky-roofed chamber. In the farther end is a beautiful grove of cottonwoods, and between us and the cotton- woods the little stream widens out into three clear lakelets with bottoms of smooth rock. Beyond the cottonwoods the brook tumbles in a series of white, shining cascades from heights that seem immeasurable'. Turn- ing around, we can look through the cleft through which we came and see the river with towering walls beyond. What a chamber for a resting- place is this ! hewn from the solid rock, the heavens for a ceiling, cascade fountains within, a grove in the conservatory, clear lakelets for a refreshing bath, and an outlook through the doorway on a raging river, with cliffs and mountains beyond. Our way after dinner is through a gorge, grand beyond description. The walls are nearly vertical, the river broad and swift, but free from FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 217 rocks and falls. From the edge of the water to the brink of the cliffs it is 1,600 to 1,800 feet. At this great depth the river rolls in solemn majesty. The cliffs are reflected from the more qniet river, and we seem to be in the depths of the earth, and yet we can look down into waters that reflect a bottomless abyss. Early in the afternoon we arrive THE HEART OF CATARACT CANYON. at the head of more rapids and falls, but, wearied with past work, we determine to rest, so go into camp, and the afternoon and evening are spent by the men in discussing the probabilities of successfully navi- gating the river below. The barometric records are examined to see what descent we have made since we left the mouth of the Grand, and what descent since we left the Pacific Eailroad, and what fall there yet 218 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. must be to the river ere we reach the end of the great canyons. The conclusion at which the men arrive seems to be about this : that there are great descents yet to be made, but if they are distributed in rapids and short falls, as they have been heretofore, we shall be able to over- come them ; but may be we shall come to a fall in these canyons which we cannot pass, where the walls rise from the water's edge, so that we cannot land, and where the water is so swift that we cannot return. Such places have been found, except that the falls were not so great but that we could run them with safety. How will it be in the future ? So they speculate over the serious probabilities in jesting mood. July 24.. — We examine the rapids below. Large rocks have fallen from the walls — great, angular blocks, which have rolled down the talus and are strewn along the channel. We are compelled to make three portages in succession, the distance being less than three fourths of a mile, with a fall of 75 feet. Among these rocks, in chutes, whirlpools, and great waves, with rushing breakers and foam, the water finds its way, still tumbling down. We stop for the night only three fourths of a mile below the last camp. A very hard day's work has been done, and at evening I sit on a rock by the edge of the river and look at the water and listen to its roar. Hours ago deep shadows settled into the canyon, as the sun passed behind the cliffs. Now, doubtless, the sun has gone down, for we can see no glint of light on the crags above. Darkness is coming on ; but the waves are rolling with crests of foam so white they seem almost to give a light of their own. Near by, a chute of water strikes the foot of a great block of limestone 50 feet high, and the waters pile up against it and roll back. Where there are sunken rocks the water heaps up in mounds, or even in cones. At a point where rocks come very near the surface, the water forms a chute above, strikes, and is shot up 10 or 15 feet, and piles back in gentle curves, as in a fountain ; and on the river tumbles and rolls. July 25. — Still more rapids and falls to-day. In one, the "Emma Dean" is caught in a whirlpool and set spinning about, and it is with great difficulty we are able to get out of it with only the loss of an oar. At noon another is made ; and on we go, running some of the rapids, letting down with lines past others, and making two short portages. We camp on the right bank, hungry and tired. FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 219 July 26. — We run a short distance this morning and go into camp to make oars and repair boats and barometers. The walls of the canyon have been steadily in- creasing in altitude to this point, and now they are more than 2,000 feet high. In many places they are vertical from the water's edge; in others there is a talus between the river and the foot of the cliff; and they are often broken down by side canyons. It is prob- able that the river is nearly as low now as it is ever found. High- water mark can be observed 40, 50, 60, or 100 feet above its present stage. Some- times logs and drift- wood are seen wedged into the crevices over- head, where floods have carried them. About ten o'clock, Powell, Bradley, How- land, Hall, and I start WATER BASIN IN GYPSUM CANYON. 220 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. up a side canyon to the east. We soon come to pools of water ; then to a brook, which is lost in the sands below ; and passing np the brook, we see that the canyon narrows, the walls close in and are often over- hanging, and at last we find ourselves in a vast amphitheater, with a pool of deep, clear, cold water on the bottom. At first our way seems cut off j but we soon discover a little shelf, along which we climb, and, passing beyond the pool, walk a hundred yards or more, turn to the right, and find ourselves in another dome-shaped amphitheater. There is a winding cleft at the top, reaching out to the country above, nearly 2,000 feet overhead. The rounded, basin-shaped bottom is filled with water to the foot of the walls. There is no shelf by which we can pass around the foot. If we swim across we meet with a face of rock hun- dreds of feet high, over which a little rill glides, and it will be im- possible to climb. So we can go no farther up this canyon. Then we turn back and examine the walls on either side carefully, to discover, if possible, some way of climbing out. In this search every man takes his own course, and we are scattered. I almost abandon the idea of getting out and am engaged in searching for fossils, when I discover, on the north, a broken place up which it may be possible to climb. The way for a distance is up a slide of rocks ; then up an irregular amphi- theater, on points that form steps and give handhold j and then I reach a little shelf, along which I walk, and discover a vertical fissure parallel to the face of the wall and reaching to a higher shelf. This fissure is narrow and I try to climb up to the bench, which is about 40 feet overhead. I have a barometer on my back, which rather impedes my climbing. The walls of the fissure are of smooth limestone, offering neither foothold nor handhold. So I support myself by pressing my back against one wall and my knees against the other, and in this way lift my body, in a shuffling manner, a few inches at a time, until I have made perhaps 25 feet of the distance, when the crevice widens a little and I cannot press my knees against the rock in front with sufficient power to give me support in lifting my body ; so I try to go back. This I cannot do without falling. So I struggle along sidewise farther into the crevice, where it narrows. But by this time my muscles are exhausted, and I cannot climb longer ; so I move still a little farther into the crev- ice, where it is so narrow and wedging that I can lie in it, and there FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 221 I rest. Five or ten minutes of this relief, and np once more I go, and reach the bench above. On this I can walk for a quarter of a mile, till I come to a place where the wall is again broken down, so I can climb up still farther ; and in an hour I reach the summit. I hang up my barometer to give it a few minutes' time to settle, and occupy myself in collecting resin f r o m the pinon pines, which are found in great abundance. One of the rmncipal objects in making this climb was to get this resin for the purpose of smearing our boats; but I have with me no means of carry- ing it down. The day is very hot and my coat was left in camp, so I have no linings to tear out. Then it occurs to me to cut off the sleeve of my shirt and tie it up at one end, and in this little sack I collect about a gallon of pitch. After taking observations for altitude, I wander back on the rock for an hour or two, when suddenly I notice that a storm is coming from the south. I seek a shelter in the rocks j but when the storm THE WATER POCKET CANYON. L 1 =^4 * it- .'•*; if: ?'. . ■ _i* p %*yj ) -jK^-J EROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 223 bursts, it conies down as a flood from the heavens, — not with gentle drops at first, slowly increasing in quantity, but as if suddenly poured out. I am thoroughly drenched and almost washed away. It lasts not more than half an hour, when the clouds sweep by to the north and I have sunshine again. In the meantime I have discovered a better way of getting down, and start for camp, making the greatest haste possible. On reaching the bottom of the side canyon, I find a thousand streams rolling down the cliffs on every side, carrying with them red sand j and these all unite in the canyon below in one great stream of red mud. Traveling as fast as I can run, I soon reach the foot of the stream, for the rain did not reach the lower end of the canyon and the water is run- ning down a dry bed of sand ; and although it comes in waves several feet high and 15 or 20 feet in width, the sands soak it up and it is lost. But wave follows wave and rolls along and is swallowed up ; and still the floods come on from above. I find that I can travel faster than the stream ; so I hasten to camp and tell the men there is a river coming down the canyon. We carry our camp equipage hastily from the bank to where we think it will be above the water. Then we stand by and see the river roll on to join the Colorado. Great quantities of gypsuni are found at the bottom of the gorge 5 so w T e name it Gypsum Canyon. July 27. — We have more rapids and falls until noon ; then we come to a narrow place in the canyon, with vertical walls for several hundred feet, above which are steep steps and sloping rocks back to the summits. The river is very narrow, and we make our way with great care and much anxiety, hugging the wall on the left and carefully examining the way before us. Late in the afternoon we pass to the left around a sharp point, which is somewhat broken down near the foot, and discover a flock of moun- tain sheep on the rocks more than a hundred feet above us. We land quickly in a cove out of sight, and away go all the hunters with their guns, for the sheep have not discovered us. Soon we hear firing, and those of us who have remained in the boats climb up to see what success the hunters have had. One sheep has been killed, and two of the men are still pursuing them. In a few minutes we hear firing again, and the next moment down come the flock clattering over the rocks within 20 224 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. yards of us. Cue of the hunters seizes his gun and brings a second sheep down, and the next minute the remainder of the flock is lost behind the rocks. We all give chase ; but it is impossible to follow their tracks over the naked rock, and we see them no more. Where they went out of this rock- walled canyon is a mystery, for we can see no way of escape. Doubtless, if we could spare the time for the search, we should find a gulch up which they ran. We lash our prizes to the deck of one of the boats and go on for a short distance ; but fresh meat is too tempting for us, and we stop early to have a feast. And a feast it is ! Two fine young sheep ! We care not for bread or beans or dried apples to-night ; coffee and mutton are all we ask. July 28. — We make two portages this morning, one of them very long. During the afternoon we run a chute more than half a mile in length, narrow and rapid. This chute has a floor of marble 5 the rocks dip in the direction in which we are going, and the fall of the stream conforms to the inclination of the beds ; so we float on water that is gliding down an inclined plane. At the foot of the chute the river turns sharply to the right and the water rolls up against a rock which from above seems to stand directly athwart its course. As we approach it we pull with all our power to the right, but it seems impossible to avoid being carried headlong against the cliff; we are carried up high on the waves — but not. against the rock, for the rebounding water strikes us and we are beaten back and pass on with safety, except that we get a good drench- ing. After this the walls suddenly close in, so that the canyon is narrower than we have ever known it. The water fills it from wall to wall, giving us no landing-place at the foot of the cliff ; the river is very swift and the canyon very tortuous, so that we can see but a few hundred yards ahead j the walls tower over us, often overhanging so as almost to shut out the light. I stand on deck, watching with intense anxiety, lest this may lead us into some danger ; but we glide along, with no obstruction, no falls, no rocks, and in a mile and a half emerge from the narrow gorge into a more open and broken portion of the canyon. Now that it is past, it seems a very simple thing indeed to run through such a place, but the fear of what might be ahead made a deep impression on us. 22G CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. At three o'clock we arrive at the foot of Cataract Canyon. Here a long canyon valley comes down from the east, and the river turns sharply to the west in a continuation of the line of the lateral valley. In the bend on the right vast numbers of crags and pinnacles and tower- shaped rocks are seen. We call it Mille Crag Bend. And now we wheel into another canyon, on swift water unobstructed by rocks. This new canyon is very narrow and very straight, with walls vertical below and terraced above. Where we enter it the brink of REPAIRING BOATS AT THE MOUTH OF DIRTY DEVIL RIVER. the cliff is 1, 300 feet above the water, but the rocks dip to the west, and as the course of the canyon is in that direction the walls are seen slowly to decrease in altitude. Floating down this narrow channel and looking FROM THE GRAND TO THE TITTLE COLORADO. 227 out through the canyon crevice away in the distance, the river is seen to turn again to the left, and beyond this point, away many miles, a great mountain is seen. Still floating down, we see other mountains, now on the right, now on the left, until a great mountain range is unfolded to view. We name this Harrow Canyon, and it terminates at the bend of the river below. As we go down to this point we discover the mouth of a stream which enters from the right. Into this our little boat is turned. The water is exceedingly muddy and has an unpleasant odor. One of the men in the boat following, seeing what we have done, shouts to Dunn and asks whether it is a trout stream. Dunn replies, much disgusted, that it is " a dirty devil," and by this name the river is to be known hereafter. Some of us go out for half a mile and climb a butte to the north. The course of the Dirty Devil Eiver can be traced for many miles. It comes down through a very narrow canyon, and beyond it, to the southwest, there is a long line of cliffs, with a broad terrace, or bench, between it and the brink of the canyon, and beyond these cliffs is situated the range of mountains seen as we came down Narrow Canyon. Looking up the Colorado, the chasm through which it runs can be seen, but we cannot see down to its waters. The whole country is a region of naked rock of many colors, with cliffs and buttes about us and towering mountains in the distance. July 29. — We enter a canyon to-day, with low, red walls. A short distance below its head we discover the ruins of an old building on the left wall. There is a narrow plain between the river and the wall just here, and on the brink of a rock 200 feet high stands this old house. Its walls are of stone, laid in mortar with much regularity. It was prob- ably built three stories high j the lower story is yet almost intact ; the second is much broken down, and scarcely anything is left of the third. Great quantities of flint chips are found on the rocks near by, and many arrowheads, some perfect, others broken ; and fragments of pottery are strewn about in great profusion. On the face of the cliff, under the building and along down the river for 200 or 300 yards, there are many etchings. Two hours are given to the examination of these interesting ruins ; then we run down fifteen miles farther, and discover another group. The principal building was situated on the summit of the hill. 228 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. A part of the walls are standing, to the height of eight or ten feet, and the mortar yet remains in some places. The house was in the shape of an L, with five rooms on the ground floor,— one in the angle and two in each extension. In the space in the angle there is a deep excavation. From what we know of the people in the Prov- ince of Tusayan, who are, doubtless, of the same race as the former inhabitants of these ruins, we conclude that this was a Jciva, or un- derground chamber in which their religious ceremonies were per- formed. We leave these ruins and run down two or three miles and go into camp about mid-after- noon. And now I climb the wall and go out into the back country for a walk. The sandstone through which the can- yon is cut is red and homogeneous, being the same as that through which Labyrinth Canyon runs. The smooth, naked rock stretches out on either side "of the river for many miles, but curiously carved mounds and cones are scattered everywhere and deep holes are worn out. Many of these pockets are filled with water. In one of these holes or wells, 20 feet deep, I find a tree growing. The excavation is so narrow that I can step from its brink to a limb on the tree and descend to the bottom of the well down a growing ladder. Many of these pockets RUINS ON THE BRINK OP GLEN CANYON. FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 229 are potholes, being found in the courses of little rills or brooks that run during the rains which occasionally fall in this region ; and often a few harder rocks, which evidently assisted in their excavation, can be found in their bottoms. Others, which are shallower, are not so easily ex- plained. Perhaps where they are found softer spots existed in the sandstone, places that yielded more readily to atmospheric degradation, the loose sands being carried away by the winds. Just before sundown I attempt to climb a rounded eminence, from which I hope to obtain a good outlook on the surrounding country. It is formed of smooth mounds, piled one above another. Up these I climb, winding here and there to find a practicable way, until near the summit they become too steep for me to proceed. I search about a few minutes for an easier way, when I am surprised at finding a stairway, evidently cut in the rock by hands. At one place, where there is a ver- tical wall of 10 or 12 feet, I find an old, rickety ladder. It may be that this was a watchtower of that ancient people whose homes we have found in ruins. On many of the tributaries of the Colorado, I have here- tofore examined their deserted dwellings. Those that show evidences of being built during the latter part of their occupation of the country are usually placed on the most inaccessible cliffs. Sometimes the mouths of caves have been walled across, and there are many other evidences to show their anxiety to secure defensible positions. Probably the nomadic tribes were sweeping down upon them and they resorted to these cliffs and canyons for safety. It is not unreasonable to suppose that this orange mound was used as a watchtower. Here I stand, where these now lost people stood centuries ago, and look over this strange country, gazing off to great mountains in the northwest which are slowly disap- pearing under cover of the night ; and then I return to camp. It is no easy task to find my way down the wall in the darkness, and I clamber about until it is nearly midnight when camp is reached. July 30. — We make good progress to-day, as the water, though smooth, is swift. Sometimes the canyon walls are vertical to the top ; sometimes they are vertical below and have a mound- covered slope above ; in other places the slope, with its mounds, comes down to the water's edge. Still proceeding on our way, we find that the orange sandstone is cut in two by a group of -firm, calcareous strata, and the lower bed is under- 230 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. laid by soft, gypsiferous shales. Sometimes the upper homogeneous bed is a smooth, vertical wall, but usually it is carved with mounds, with gently meandering valley lines. The lower bed, yielding to gravity, as the softer shales below work out into the river, breaks into angular sur- faces, often having a columnar appearance. One could almost imagine that the walls had been carved with a purpose, to represent giant archi- tectural forms. In the deep recesses of the walls we find springs, with mosses and ferns on the moistened sandstone. July 31. — We have a cool, pleasant ride to-day through this part of the canyon. The walls are steadily increasing in altitude, the curves are gentle, and often the river sweeps by an arc of vertical wall, smooth and unbroken,- and then by a curve that is variegated by royal arches, mossy alcoves, deep, beautiful glens, and painted grottoes. Soon after dinner we discover the mouth of the San Juan, where we camp. The remainder of the afternoon is given to hunting some way by which we can climb out of the canyon ; but it ends in failure. August 1. — We drop down two miles this morning and go into camp again. There is a low, willow- covered strip of land along the walls on the east. Across this we walk, to explore an alcove which we see from the river. On entering, we find a little grove of box-elder and cotton- wood trees, and turning to the right, we find ourselves in a vast chamber, carved out of the rock. At the upper end there is a clear, deep pool of water, bordered with verdure. Standing by the side of this, we can see the grove at the entrance. The chamber is more than 200 feet high, 500 feet long, and 200 feet wide. Through, the ceiling, and on through the rocks for a thousand feet above, there is a narrow, winding skylight ; and this is all carved out by a little stream which runs only during the few showers that fall now and then in this arid country. The waters from the bare rocks back of the canyon, gathering rapidly into a small channel have eroded a deep side canyon, through which they run until they fall into the farther end of this chamber. The rock at the ceiling is hard, the rock below, very soft and friable ; and having cut through the upj>er and harder portion down into the lower and softer, the stream has washed out these friable sandstones ; and thus the chamber has been excavated. Here we bring our camp. When "Old Shady" sings us a song at FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. ;si night, we are pleased to find that this hollow in the rock is filled with sweet sounds. It was doubtless made for an academy of music "by its storm-born architect ; so we name it Music Temple. August 2. — We still keep our camp in Music Temple to-day. I wish to obtain a view of the adja- cent country, if possible ; so, early in the morning the men take me across the river, and I pass along by the foot of the cliff half a mile up stream and then climb, first up broken ledges, then 200 or 300 yards up a smooth, sloping rock, and then pass out on a narrow ridge. Still, I find I have not attained an altitude from which I can overlook the region outside of the canyon ; and so I descend into a little gulch and climb again to a higher ridge, all the way along naked sandstone, and at last I reach a point of commanding view. I can look several miles up the San Juan, and a long distance up the Colorado ; and away to the northwest I can see the Henry Mountains ; to the northeast, the Sierra La Sal ; to the south- east, unknown mountains ; and to the southwest, the meander- ing of the canyon. Then I re- ISLAND M ° N ™ ENT ** GLEN canyon. turn to the bank of the river. "We sleep again in Music Temple. August 3. — Start early this morning. The features of this canyon are greatly diversified. Still vertical walls at times. These are usually found to stand above great curves. The river, sweeping around these 232 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. bends, undermines the cliffs in places. Sometimes the rocks are over- hanging 5 in other curves, curious, narrow glens are found. Through these we climb, by a rough stairway, perhaps several hundred feet, to where a spring bursts out from under an overhanging cliff, and where cottonwoods and willows stand, while along the curves of the brooklet oaks grow, and other rich vegetation is seen, in marked contrast to the general appearance of naked rock. We call these Oak Glens. Other wonderful features are the many side canyons or gorges that we pass. Sometimes we stop to explore these for a short distance. In some places their walls are much nearer each other above than be- low, so that they look somewhat like caves or chambers in the rocks. Usually, in going up such a gorge, we find beautiful vegetation ; but our way is often cut off by deep basins, or " potholes," as they are called. On the walls, and back many miles into the country, numbers of monument-shaped buttes are observed. So we have a curious ensemble of wonderful features — carved walls, royal arches, glens, alcove gulches, GLEN CANYON. FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 233 mounds, and monuments. From which of these features shall we select a name t We decide to call it Glen Canyon. Past these towering monuments, past these mounded billows of orange sandstone, past these oak-set glens, past these fern-decked alcoves, past these mural curves, we glide hour after hour, stopping now and then, as our attention is arrested by some new wonder, until we reach a point which is historic. In the year 1776, Father Escalante, a Spanish priest, made an ex- pedition from Santa Fe to the northwest, crossing the Grand and Green, and then passing down along the Wasatch Mountains and the southern plateaus until he reached the Eio Virgen. His intention was to cross to the Mission of Monterey j but, from information received from the Indians, he decided that the route was impracticable. Not wishing to return to Santa Fe over the circuitous route by which he had just traveled, he attempted to go by one more direct, which led him across the Colorado at a point known as El Yado de los Padres. From the description which we have read, we are enabled to determine the place. A little stream comes down through a very narrow side canyon from the west. It was down this that he came, and our boats are lying at the point where the ford crosses. A well-beaten Indian trail is seen here yet. Between the cliff and the river there is a little meadow. The ashes of many camp fires are seen, and the bones of numbers of cattle are bleaching on the grass. For several years the Navajos have raided on the Mormons that dwell in the valleys to the west, and they doubtless cross frequently at this ford with their stolen cattle. August 4-. — To-day the walls grow higher and the canyon much nar- rower. Monuments are still seen on either side ; beautiful glens and alcoves and gorges and side canyons are yet found. After dinner we find the river making a sudden turn to the northwest and the whole character of the canyon changed. The walls are many hundreds of feet higher, and the rocks are chiefly variegated shales of beautiful colors — creamy orange above, then bright vermilion, and below, purple and chocolate beds, with green and yellow sands. We run four miles through this, in a direction a little to the west of north, wheel again to the west, and pass into a portion of the canyon where the characteristics are more like those above the bend. At night we stop at the mouth of 234 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. a creek coining in from the right, and suppose it to be the Paria ; which was described to me last year by a Mormon missionary. Here the canyon terminates abruptly in a line of cliffs, which stretches from either side across the river. August 5. — With some feeling of anxiety we enter a new canyon this morning. We have learned to observe closely the texture of the rock. In softer strata we have a quiet river, in harder we find rapids and falls. Below us are the limestones and hard sandstones which we found in Cataract Canyon. This bodes toil and danger. Besides the texture of the rocks, there is another condition which affects the character of the channel, as we have found by experience. Where the strata are horizontal the river is often quiet, and, even though it may be very swift in places, no great obstacles are found. Where the rocks Incline in the direction traveled, the river usually sweeps with great velocity, but still has few rapids and falls. But where the rocks dip up stream and the river cuts obliquely across the upturned formations, harder strata above and softer below, we have rapids and falls. Into hard rocks and into rocks dipping up stream we pass this morning and start on a long, rocky, mad rapid. On the left there is a vertical rock, and down by this cliff and around to the left we glide, tossed just enough by the waves to appreciate the rate at which we are traveling. The canyon is narrow, with vertical walls, which gradually grow higher. More rapids and falls are found. We come to one with a drop of sixteen feet, around which we make a portage, and then stop for dinner. Then a run of two miles, and another portage, long and dim- cult ; then we camp for the night on a bank of sand. August 6. — Canyon walls, still higher and higher, as we go down through strata. There is a steep talus at the foot of the cliff, and in some places the upper parts of the walls are terraced. About ten o'clock we come to a place where the river occupies the en- tire channel and the walls are vertical from the water's edge. We see a fall below and row up against the cliff. There is a little shelf, or rather a horizontal crevice, a few feet over our heads. One man stands on the deck of the boat, another climbs on his shoulders, and then into the crevice. Then we pass him a line, and two or three others, with myself, follow ; then we pass along the crevice until it becomes a shelf, as 236 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. the upper part, or roof, is broken off. On this we walk for a short distance, slowly climbing all the way, until we reach a point where the shelf is broken off, and we can pass no farther. So we go back to the boat, cross the stream, and get some logs that have lodged in the rocks, bring them to our side, pass them along the crevice and shelf, and bridge over the broken place. Then we go on to a point over the falls, but do not obtain a satis- factory view. So we climb out to the top of the wall and walk along to find a point below the fall from which it can be seen. From this point it seems possi- ble to let down our boats with lines to the head of the rapids, and then make a portage j so we return, row down by the side of the cliff as far as we dare, and fasten one of the boats to a rock. Then we let down another boat to the end of its line beyond the first, and the third boat to the end of its line below the second, which brings it to the head of the fall and under an overhanging rock. Then the upper boat, in obedi- ence to a signal, lets go 5 we pull in the line and catch the nearest boat as it comes, and then the last. The portage follows. We go into camp early this afternoon at a place where it seems possible to climb out, and the evening is spent in " making observations for time." MARBLE CANYON. FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 237 August 7. — The almanac tells us that we are to have an eclipse of the sun to-day ; so Captain Powell and myself start early, taking our in- struments with us for the purpose of making observations on the eclipse to determine our longitude. Arriving at the summit, after four hours' hard climbing to attain 2,300 feet in height, we hurriedly build a platform of rocks on which to place our instruments, and quietly wait for the eclipse ; but clouds come on and rain falls, and sun and moon are obscured. Much disappointed, we start on our return to camp, but it is late and the clouds make the night very dark. We feel our way down among the rocks with great care for two or three hours, making slow progress indeed. At last we lose our way and dare proceed no farther. The rain comes down in torrents and we can find no shelter. We can neither climb up nor go down, and in the darkness dare not move about ; so we sit and " weather out " the night. August #. —Daylight comes after a long, oh, how long ! a night, and we soon reach camp. After breakfast we start again, and make two portages during the forenoon. The limestone of this canyon is often polished, and makes a beautiful marble. Sometimes the rocks are of many colors — white, gray, pink, and purple, with saffron tints. It is with very great labor that we make progress, meeting with many obstructions, running rapids, letting down our boats with lines from rock to rock, and sometimes carrying boats and cargoes around bad places. We camp at night, just after a hard portage, under an overhanging wall, glad to find shelter from the rain. We have to search for some time to find a few sticks of driftwood, just sufficient to boil a cup of coffee. The water sweeps rapidly in this elbow of river, and has cut its way under the rock, excavating a vast half- circular chamber, which, if utilized for a theater, would give sitting to 50,000 people. Objection might be raised against it, however, for at high water the floor is covered with a raging flood. August 9. — And now the scenery is on a grand scale. The walls of the canyon, 2,500 feet high, are of marble, of many beautiful colors, often polished below by the waves, and sometimes far up the sides, where showers have washed the sands over the cliffs. At one place I 238 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. have a walk for more than a mile on a marble pavement, all polished and fretted with strange devices and embossed in a thousand fantastic patterns. Through a cleft in the wall the sun shines on this pavement and it gleams in iridescent beauty. I pass up into the cleft. It is very narrow, with a succession of pools standing at higher levels as I go back. The water in these pools is clear and cool, coming down from springs. Then I return to the pavement, which is but a terrace or bench, over which the river runs at its flood, but left bare at present. Along the pavement in many places are basins of clear water, in strange contrast to the red mud of the river. At length I come to the end of this marble terrace and take again to the boat. Riding down a short distance, a beautiful view is presented. The river turns sharply to the east and seems inclosed by a wall set with a million brilliant gems. What can it mean 1 Every eye is engaged, every one wonders. On coming nearer we find fountains bursting from the rock high overhead, and the spray in the sunshine forms the gems which bedeck the wall. The rocks below the fountain are covered with mosses and ferns and many beautiful flowering plants. We name it Vasey's Paradise, in honor of the botanist who traveled with us last year. We pass many side canyons to-day that are dark, gloomy passages back into the heart of the rocks that form the plateau through which this canyon is cut. It rains again this afternoon. Scarcely do the first drops fall when little rills run down the walls. As the storm comes on, the little rills increase in size, until great streams are formed. Although the walls of the canyon are chiefly limestone, the adjacent country is of red sandstone ; and now the waters, loaded with these sands, come down in rivers of bright red mud, leaping over the walls in innumerable cascades. It is plain now how these walls are polished in many places. At last the storm ceases and we go on. We have cut through the sandstones and limestones met in the upper part of the canyon, and through one great bed of marble a thousand feet in thickness. In this, great numbers of caves are hollowed out, and carvings are seen which suggest architectural forms, though on a scale so grand that architec- NOONDAY REST IN MARBLE CANYON. VIEW OF MARBLE CANYON FROM VERMILION CLIFFS. FROM THE GRAND TO THE LITTLE COLORADO. 241 tural terms belittle them. As this great bed forms a distinctive feature of the canyon, we call it Marble Canyon. It is a peculiar feature of these walls that many projections are set out into the river, as if the wall was buttressed for support. The walls themselves are half a mile high, and these buttresses are on a corre- sponding scale, jutting into the river scores of feet. In the recesses between these projections there are quiet bays, except at the foot of a rapid, when there are dancing eddies or whirlpools. Sometimes these alcoves have caves at the back, giving them the appearance of great depth. Then other caves are seen above, forming vast dome-shaped chambers. The walls and buttresses and chambers are all of marble. The river is now quiet ; the canyon wider. Above, when the river is at its flood, the waters gorge up, so that the difference between high and low water mark is often 50 or even 70 feet, but here high-water mark is not more than 20 feet above the present stage of the river. Sometimes there is a narrow flood plain between the water and the wall. Here we first discover mesquite shrubs, — small trees with finely divided leaves and pods, somewhat like the locust. August 10. — Walls still higher ; water swift again. We pass several broad, ragged canyons on our right, and up through these we catch glimpses of a forest- clad plateau, miles away to the west. At two o'clock we reach the mouth of the Colorado Chiquito. This stream enters through a canyon on a scale quite as grand as that of the Colorado itself. It is a very small river and exceedingly muddy and saline. I walk up the stream three or four miles this afternoon, crossing and recrossing where I can easily wade it. Then I climb several hun- dred feet at one place, and can see for several miles up the chasm through which the river runs. On my way back I kill two rattlesnakes, and find on my arrival that another has been killed just at camp. August 11. — We remain at this point to-day for the purpose of de- termining the latitude and longitude, measuring the height of the walls, drying our rations, and repairing our boats. Captain Powell early in the morning takes a barometer and goes out to climb a point between the two rivers. I walk down the gorge to the left at the foot of the cliff, climb to a bench, and discover a trail, deeply worn in the rock. Where it crosses the side gulches in some 242 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. places steps have been cut. I can see no evidence of its having been traveled for a long time. It was doubtless a path used by the people who inhabited this country anterior to the present Indian races — the people who built the communal houses of which mention has been made. I return to camp about three o'clock and find that some of the men have discovered ruins and many fragments of pottery j also etchings and hieroglyphics on the rocks. We find to-night, on comparing the readings of the barometers, that the walls are about 3,000 feet high — more than half a mile— an altitude difficult to appreciate from a mere statement of feet. The slope by which the ascent is made is not such a slope as is usually found in climbing a mountain, but one much more abrupt — often vertical for many hundreds of feet, — so that the impression is given that we are at great depths, and we look up to see but a little patch of sky. Between the two streams, above the Colorado Chiquito, in some places the rocks are broken and shelving for 600 or 700 feet ; then there is a sloping terrace, which can be climbed only by finding some way up a gulch ; then another terrace, and back, still another cliff. The summit of the cliff is 3, 000 feet above the river, as our barometers attest. Our camp is below the Colorado Chiquito and on the eastern side of the canyon. August 12. — The rocks above camp are rust-colored sandstones and conglomerates. Some are very hard ; others quite soft. They all lie nearly horizontal, and the beds of softer material have been washed out, leaving the harder forming a series of shelves. Long lines of these are seen, of varying thickness, from one or two to twenty or thirty feet, and the spaces between have the same variability. This morning I spend two or three hours in climbing among these shelves, and then I pass above them and go up a long slope to the foot of the cliff and try to discover some way by which I can reach the top of the wall ; but I find my progress cut off by an amphitheater. Then I wander away around to the left, up a little gulch and along benches, climbing from time to time, until I reach an altitude of nearly 2,000 feet and can get no higher. From this point I can look off to the west, up side canyons of the Colorado, and see the edge of a great plateau, from which streams run down into the Colorado, and deep gulches in the 244 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. escarpment which faces us, continued by canyons, ragged and flaring and set with cliffs and towering crags, down to the river. I can see far up Marble Canyon to long lines of chocolate-colored cliffs, and above these the Vermilion Cliffs. I can see, also, up the Colorado Chiquito, through a very ragged and broken canyon, with sharp salients set out from the walls on either side, their points overlapping, so that a huge tooth of marble on one side seems to be set between two teeth on the opposite ; and I can also get glimpses of walls standing away back from the river, while over my head are mural escarpments not possible to be scaled. Cataract Canyon is 41 miles long. The walls are 1,300 feet high at its head, and they gradually increase in altitude to a point about halfway down, where they are 2,700 feet, and then decrease to 1,300 feet at the foot. Narrow Canyon is 9 J miles long, with walls 1,300 feet in height at the head and coming down to the water at the foot. There is very little vegetation in this canyon or in the adjacent country. Just at the junction of the Grand and Green there are a number of hackberry trees ; and along the entire length of Cataract Canyon the high-water line is marked by scattered trees of the same species. A few nut pines and cedars are found, and occasionally a redbud or Judas tree ; but the general aspect of the canyons and of the adjacent country is that of naked rock. The distance through Glen Canyon is 149 miles. Its walls vary in height from 200 or 300 to 1,600 feet. Marble Canyon is 65J miles long. At its head it is 200 feet deep, and it steadily increases in depth to its foot, where its walls are 3,500 feet high. AT THE MOUTH OF THE LITTLE COLORADO. CHAPTER XI. FROM THE LITTLE COLORADO TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. AUGUST 13. — We are now ready to start on our way down the Great Unknown. Our boats, tied to a common stake, chafe each other as they are tossed by the fretful river. They ride high and buoyant, for their loads are lighter than we could desire. "We have but a month's rations remaining. The flour has been resifted through the mosquito-net sieve ; the spoiled bacon has been dried and the worst of it boiled ; the few pounds of dried apples have been spread in the sun and reshrunken to their normal bulk. The sugar has all melted and gone on its way down the river. But we have a large sack of coffee. The lightening of the boats has this advantage : they will ride the waves better and we shall have but little to carry when we make a portage. We are three quarters of a mile in the depths of the earth, and the great river shrinks into insignificance as it dashes its angry waves against the walls and cliffs that rise to the world above ; the waves are but puny ripples, and we but pigmies, running up and down the sands or lost among the boulders. We have an unknown distance yet to run, an unknown river to ex- plore. What falls there are, we know not ; what rocks beset the channel, we know not 5 what walls rise over the river, we know not. Ah, well ! we may conjecture many things. The men talk as cheerfully as ever ; jests are bandied about freely this morning j but to me the cheer is somber and the jests are ghastly. With some eagerness and some anxiety and some misgiving we enter the canyon below and are carried along by the swift water through walls which rise from its very edge. They have the same structure that we noticed yesterday — tiers of irregular shelves below, and, above these, 248 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. steep slopes to the foot of marble cliffs. We run six miles in a little more than half an hour and emerge into a more open portion of the canyon, where high hills and ledges of rock intervene between the river and the distant walls. Just at the head of this open jnace the river runs across a dike ; that is, a fissure in the rocks, open to depths below, was filled with eruptive matter, and this on cooling was harder than the rocks through which the crevice was made, and when these were washed away the harder volcanic matter remained as a wall, and the river has cut a gateway through it several hundred feet high and as many wide. As it crosses the wall, there is a fall below and a bad rapid, filled with boulders of trap ; so we stop to make a portage. Then on we go, glid- ing by hills and ledges, with distant walls in view $ sweeping past sharp angles of rock ; stopping at a few points to examine rapids, which we find can be run, until we have made another five miles, when we land for dinner. Then we let down with lines over a long rapid and start again. Once more the walls close in, and we find ourselves in a narrow gorge, the water again filling the channel and being very swift. With great care and constant watchfulness we proceed, making about four miles this afternoon, and camp in a cave. August llf.. — At daybreak we walk down the bank of the river, on a little sandy beach, to take a view of a new feature in the canyon. Heretofore hard rocks have given us bad river j soft rocks, smooth water ; and a series of rocks harder than any we have experienced sets in. The river enters the gneiss ! We can see but a little way into the granite gorge, but it looks threatening. After breakfast we enter on the waves. At the very introduction it inspires awe. The canyon is narrower than we have ever before seen it ; the water is swifter 5 there are but few broken rocks in the channel ; but the walls are set, on either side, with pinnacles and crags ; and sharp, angular buttresses, bristling with wind- and wave-polished spires, extend far out into the river. Ledges of rock jut into the stream, their tops sometimes just below the surface, sometimes rising a few or many feet above ; and island ledges and island pinnacles and island towers break the swift course of the stream into chutes and eddies and whirlpools. We soon reach a place TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 249 where a creek comes in from the left, and, just below, the channel is choked with boulders, which have washed down this lateral canyon and formed a dam, over which there is a fall of 30 or 40 feet ; but on the boulders foothold can be had, and we make a portage. Three more such dams are found. Over one we make a portage ; at the other two are chutes through which we can run. As we proceed the granite rises higher, until nearly a thousand feet of the lower part of the walls are composed of this rock. WALLS OF GNEISS. About eleven o'clock we hear a great roar ahead, and approach it very cautiously. The sound grows louder and louder as we run, and at last we find ourselves above a long, broken fall, with ledges and pinnacles of 250 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. rock obstructing the river. There is a descent of perhaps 75 or 80 feet in a third of a mile, and the rushing waters break into great waves RUNNING A RAPID. on the rocks, and lash themselves into a mad, white foam. We can land just above, but there is no foothold on either side by which we can make a portage. It is nearly a thousand feet to the top of the granite 5 TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 251 so it will be impossible to carry our boats around, though, we can climb to the summit up a side gulch and, passing along a mile or two, descend to the river. This we find on examination j but such a portage would be impracticable for us, and we must run the rapid or abandon the river. There is no hesitation. We step into our boats, push off, and away we go, first on smooth but swift water, then we strike a glassy wave and ride to its top, down again into the trough, up again on a higher wave, and down and up on waves higher and still higher until we strike one just as it curls back, and a breaker rolls over our little boat. Still on we speed, shooting past projecting rocks, till the little boat is caught in a whirlpool and spun round several times. At last we pull out again into the stream. And now the other boats have passed us. The open compartment of the "Emma Dean" is filled with water and every breaker rolls over us. Hurled back from a rock, now on this side, now on that, we are carried into an eddy, in which we struggle for a few minutes, and are then out again, the breakers still rolling over us. Our boat is unmanageable, but she cannot sink, and we drift down another hundred yards through breakers — how, we scarcely know. We find the other boats have turned into an eddy at the foot of the fall and are wait- ing to catch us as we come, for the men have seen that our boat is swamped. They push out as we come near and pull us in against the wall. Our boat bailed, on we go again. The walls now are more than a mile in height — a vertical distance difficult to appreciate. Stand on the south steps of the Treasury build- ing in Washington and look down Pennsylvania Avenue to the Capitol ; measure this distance overhead, and imagine cliffs to extend to that alti- tude, and you will understand what is meant ; or stand at Canal Street in New York and look up Broadway to Grace Church, and you have about the distance ; or stand at Lake Street bridge in Chicago and look down to the Central Depot, and you have it again. A thousand feet of this is up through granite crags ; then steep slopes and perpendicular cliffs rise one above another to the summit. The gorge is black and narrow below, red and gray and flaring above, with crags and angular projections on the walls, which, cut in many places by side canyons, seem to be a vast wilderness of rocks. Down in these grand, gloomy depths we glide, ever listening, for the mad waters keep HEAD OF THE GRAND CANYON. TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 253 up their roar ; ever watching, ever peering ahead, for the narrow canyon is winding and the river is closed in so that we can see but a few hundred yards, and what there may be below we know not ; so we listen for falls and watch for rocks, stopping now and then in the bay of a recess to admire the gigantic scenery ; and ever as we go there is some new pinnacle or tower, some crag or peak, some distant view of the upper plateau, some strangely shaped rock, or some deep, narrow side canyon. Then we come to another broken fall, which appears more difficult than the one we ran this morning. A small creek comes in on the right, and the first fall of the water is over boulders, which have been carried down by this lateral stream. "We land at its mouth and stop for an hour or two to examine the fall. It seems possible to let down with lines, at least a part of the way, from point to point, along the right-hand wall. So we make a portage over the first rocks and find footing on some boulders below. Then we let down one of the boats to the end of her line, when she reaches a corner of the projecting rock, to which one of the men clings and steadies her while I examine an eddy below. I think we can pass the other boats down by us and catch them in the eddy. This is soon done, and the men in the boats in the eddy pull us to their side. On the shore of this little eddy there is about two feet of gravel beach above the water. Standing on this beach, some of the men take the line of the little boat and let it drift down against another projecting angle. Here is a little shelf, on which a man from my boat climbs, and a shorter line is passed to him, and he fastens the boat to the side of the cliff; then the second one is let down, bringing the line of the third. When the second boat is tied up, the two men standing on the beach above spring into the last boat, which is pulled up alongside of ours; then we let down the boats for 25 or 30 yards by walking along the shelf, landing them again in the, mouth of a side canyon. Just below this there is another pile of boulders, over which we make another portage. From the foot of these rocks we can climb to another shelf, 40 or 50 feet above the water. On this bench we camp for the night. It is raining hard, and we have no shelter, but find a few sticks which have lodged in the rocks, and kindle a fire and have supper. We sit on the rocks all night, wrapped in our ponchos, getting what sleep we can. ' ] A IS .. '"':>«,; ,': "V; . ■' ',,' ' ; i'A;',, --*■-, >'. <:■,; :," *?, ,/ " "w. --=•:-- "' ^~M lifli ill THE INNER GORGE. TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 255 August 15. — This morning we find we can let down for 300 or 400 yards, and it is managed in this way : we pass along the wall by climb- ing from projecting point to point, sometimes near the water's edge, at other places 50 or 60 feet above, and hold the boat with a line while two men remain aboard and prevent her from being dashed against the rocks and keep the line from getting canght on the wall. In two hours we have brought them all down, as far as it is possible, in this way. A few yards below, the river strikes with great violence against a projecting rock and our boats are pulled up in a little bay above. We must now manage to pull out of this and clear the point below. The little boat is held by the bow obliquely up the stream. We jump in and pull out only a few strokes, and sweep clear of the dangerous rock. The other boats follow in the same manner and the rapid is passed. It is not easy to describe the labor of such navigation. We must pre- vent the waves from dashing the boats against the cliffs. Sometimes, where the river is swift, we must put a bight of rope about a rock, to prevent the boat from being snatched from us by a wave ; but where the plunge is too great or the chute too swift, we must let her leap and catch her below or the undertow will drag her under the falling water and sink her. Where we wish to run her out a little way from shore through a channel between rocks, we first throw in little sticks of drift- wood and watch their course, to see where we must steer so that she will pass the channel in safety. And so we hold, and let go, and pull, and lift, and ward — among rocks, around rocks, and over rocks. And now we go on through this solemn, mysterious way. The river is very deep, the canyon very narrow, and still obstructed, so that there is no steady flow of the stream ; but the waters reel and roll and boil, and we are scarcely able to determine where we can go. Now the boat is carried to the right, perhaps close to the wall ; again, she is shot into the stream, and perhaps is dragged over to the other side, where, caught in a whirlpool, she spins about. We can neither land nor run as we please. The boats are entirely unmanageable ; no order in their running can be preserved ; now one, now another, is ahead, each crew laboring for its cwn preservation. In such a place we come to another rapid. Two of the boats run it perforce. One succeeds in landing, but there is no foothold by which to make a portage and she is pushed out again into 256 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. the stream. The next minute a great reflex wave fills the open compart- ment ; she is water-logged, and drifts unmanageable. Breaker after breaker rolls over her and one capsizes her. The men are thrown out 5 but they cling to the boat, and she drifts down some distance alongside of us and we are able to catch her. She is soon bailed out and the men are aboard once more ; but the oars are lost, and so a pair from the "Emma Dean " is spared. Then for two miles we find smooth water. Clouds are playing in the canyon to-day. Sometimes they roll down in great masses, filling the gorge with gloom $ sometimes they hang aloft from wall to wall and cover the canyon with a roof of impending storm, and we can peer long distances up and down this canyon cor- ridor, with its cloud-roof overhead, its walls of black granite, and its river bright with the sheen of broken waters. Then a gust of wind sweeps down a side gulch and, making a rift in the clouds, reveals the blue heavens, and a stream of sunlight pours in. Then the clouds drift away into the distance, and hang around crags and peaks and pinnacles and towers and walls, and cover them with a mantle that lifts from time to time and sets them all in sharp relief. Then baby clouds creep out of side canyons, glide around points, and creep back again into more dis- tant gorges. Then clouds arrange in strata across the canyon, with intervening vista views to cliffs and rocks beyond. The clouds are children of the heavens, and when they play among the rocks they lift them to the region above. It rains ! Eapidly little rills are formed above, and these soon grow into brooks, and the brooks grow into creeks and tumble over the walls in innumerable cascades, adding their wild music to the roar of the river. When the rain ceases the rills, brooks, and creeks run dry. The waters that fall during a rain on these steep rocks are gathered at once into the river ; they could scarcely be poured in more suddenly if some vast spout ran from the clouds to the stream itself. When a storm bursts over the canyon a side gulch is dangerous, for a sudden flood may come, and the inpouring waters will raise the river so as to hide the rocks. Early in the afternoon we discover a stream entering from the north — a clear, beautiful creek, coming down through a gorgeous red canyon. We land and camp on a sand beach above its mouth, under a great, overspreading tree with willow-shaped leaves. "Iff', "DA NTT " SIGNAL, "WHO ARE YOU?" ANSWER, " PANI. TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 259 August 16. — We must dry our rations again to-day and make oars. The Colorado is never a clear stream, but for the past three or four days it has been raining much of the time, and the floods poured over the walls have brought down great quantities of mud, making it exceed- ingly turbid now. The little affluent which we have discovered here is a clear, beautiful creek, or river, as it would be termed in this western country, where streams are not abundant. We have named one stream, away above, in honor of the great chief of the "Bad Angels, v and as this is in beautiful contrast to that, we conclude to name it " Bright Angel." Early in the morning the whole party starts up to explore the Bright Angel Eiver, with the special purpose of seeking timber from which to make oars. A couple of miles above we find a large pine log, which has been floated down from the plateau, probably from an altitude of more than 6,000 feet, but not many miles back. On its way it must have passed over many cataracts and falls, for it bears scars in evidence of the rough usage which it has received. The men roll it on skids, and the work of sawing oars is commenced. This stream heads away back under a line of abrupt cliffs that ter- minates the plateau, and tumbles down more than 4,000 feet in the first mile or two of its course j then runs through a deep, narrow canyon until it reaches the river. Late in the afternoon I return and go up a little gulch just above this creek, about 200 yards from camp, and discover the ruins of two or three old houses, which were originally of stone laid in mortar. Only the foundations are left, but irregular blocks, of which the houses were constructed, lie scattered about. In one room I find an old mealing - stone, deeply worn, as if it had been much used. A great deal of pot- tery is strewn around, and old trails, which in some places are deeply worn into the rocks, are seen. It is ever a source of wonder to us why these ancient people sought such inaccessible places for their homes. They were, doubtless, an agricultural race, but there are no lands here of any considerable extent that they could have cultivated. To the west of Oraibi, one of the towns in the Province of Tusayan, in northern Arizona, the inhabitants have actually built little terraces along the face of the cliff where a 260 CANYONS OP THE COLORADO. spring gushes out, and thus made their sites for gardens. It is possible that the ancient inhabitants of this place made their agricultural lands in the same way. But why should they seek such spots'? Surely the country was not so crowded with people as to demand the utilization of so barren a region. The only solution suggested of the problem is this : We know that for a century or two after the settlement of Mexico many expeditions were sent into the country now comprising Arizona and New Mexico, for the purpose of bringing the town-building people under the dominion of the Spanish government. Many of their villages were destroyed, and the inhabitants fled to regions at that time unknown ; and there are traditions among the people who inhabit the pueblos that still remain that the canyons were these unknown lands. It may be these buildings were erected at that time ; sure it is that they have a much more modern appearance than the ruins scattered over Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico. Those old Spanish conquerors had a monstrous greed for gold and a wonderful lust for saving souls. Treasures they must have, if not on earth, why, then, in heaven ; and when they failed to find heathen temples bedecked with silver, they propitiated Heaven by seizing the heathen themselves. There is yet extant a copy of a record made by a heathen artist to express his conception of the demands of the conquerors. In one part of the picture we have a lake, and near by stands a priest pouring water on the head of a native. On the other side, a poor Indian has a cord about his throat. Lines run from these two groups to a central figure, a man with beard and full Spanish panoply. The interpretation of the picture-writing is this: "Be baptized as this saved heathen, or be hanged as that damned heathen. '? Doubtless, some of these people pre- ferred another alternative, and rather than be baptized or hanged they chose to imprison themselves within these canyon walls. August 17. — Our rations are still spoiling; the bacon is so badly injured that we are compelled to throw it away. By an accident, this morning, the saleratus was lost overboard. "We have now only musty flour sufficient for ten days and a few dried apples, but plenty of coffee. We must make all haste possible. If we meet with difficulties such as we have encountered in the canyon above, we may be compelled to give up the expedition and try to reach the Mormon settlements to the north. SIGNAL OF SUCCESSFUL WAR PARTY. A SIGNAL. OF PEACE. TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 263 Our hopes are that the worst places are passed, but our barometers are all so much injured as to be useless, and so we have lost our reckoning in altitude, and know not how much descent the river has yet to make. The stream is still wild and rapid and rolls through a narrow channel. We make but slow progress, often landing against a wall and climbing around some point to see the river below. Although very anxious to ad- vance, we are determined to run with great caution, lest by another accident we lose our remaining supplies. How precious that little flour has become ! We divide it among the boats and carefully store it away, so that it can be lost only by the loss of the boat itself. We make ten miles and a half, and camp among the rocks on the right. We have had rain from time to time all day, and have been thoroughly drenched and chilled ; but between showers the sun shines with great power and the mercury in our thermometers stands at 115°, so that we have rapid changes from great extremes, which are very dis- agreeable. It is especially cold in the rain to-night. The little canvas we have is rotten and useless ; the rubber ponchos with which we started from Green Eiver City have all been lost ; more than half the party are without hats, not one of us has an entire suit of clothes, and we have not a blanket apiece. So we gather driftwood and build a fire ; but after supper the rain, coming down in torrents, extinguishes it, and we sit up all night on the rocks, shivering, and are more exhausted by the night's discomfort than by the day's toil. August 18. — The day is employed in making portages and we advance but two miles on our journey. Still it rains. While the men are at work making portages I climb up the granite to its summit and go away back over the rust-colored sandstones and greenish-yellow shales to the foot of the marble wall. I climb so high that the men and boats are lost in the black depths below and the dash- ing river is a rippling brook, and still there is more canyon above than below. All about me are interesting geologic records. The book is open and I can read as I run. All about me are grand views, too, for the clouds are playing again in the gorges. But somehow I think of the nine days' rations and the bad river, and the lesson of the rocks and the glory of the scene are but half conceived. I push on to an angle, where I hope to get a view of the country 264 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. beyond, to see if possible what the prospect may be of our soon running through this plateau, or at least of meeting with some geologic change that will let us out of the granite j but, arriving at the point, I can see below only a labyrinth of black gorges. August 19. — Rain again this morning. We are in our granite prison still, and the time until noon is occupied in making a long, bad portage. After dinner, in running a rapid the pioneer boat is upset by a wave. We are some distance in advance of the larger boats. The river is rough and swift and we are unable to land, but cling to the boat and are carried down stream over another rapid. The men in the boats above see our trouble, but they are caught in whirlpools and are spinning about in eddies, and it seems a long time before they come to our relief. At last they do come ; our boat is turned right side up and bailed out j the oars, which fortunately have floated along in company with us, are gathered up, and on we go, without even landing. The clouds break away and we have sunshine again. Soon we find a little beach with just room enough to land. Here we camp, but there is no wood. Across the river and a little way above, we see some driftwood lodged in the rocks. So we bring two boat loads over, build a huge fire, and spread everything to dry. It is the first cheerful night we have had for a week — a warm, drying fire in the midst of the camp, and a few bright stars in our patch of heavens over- head. August 20. — The characteristics of the canyon change this morning. The river is broader, the walls more sloping, and composed of black slates that stand on edge. These nearly vertical slates are washed out in places— that is, the softer beds are washed out between the harder, which are left standing. In this way curious little alcoves are formed, in which are quiet bays of water, but on a much smaller scale than the great bays and buttresses of Marble Canyon. The river is still rapid and we stop to let down with lines several times, but make greater progress, as we run ten miles. We camp on the right bank. Here, on a terrace of trap, we discover another group of ruins. There was evidently quite a village on this rock. Again we find mealing-stones and much broken pottery, and up on a little natural shelf in the rock back of the ruins we find a globular basket that would hold MOKI METHOD OF DRESSING THE HAIR. MOKI METHOD OF SPINNING. TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 267 perhaps a third of a bushel. It is badly broken, and as I attempt to take it up it falls to pieces. There are many beautiful flint chips, also, as if this had been the home of an old arrow -maker. August 21. — We start early this morning, cheered by the prospect of a fine day and encouraged also by the good run made yesterday. A quarter of a mile below camp the river turns abruptly to the left, and between camp and that point is very swift, running down in a long, broken chute and piling up against the foot of the cliff, where it turns to the left. We try to pull across, so as to go down on the other side, but the waters are swift and it seems impossible for us to escape the rock below ; but, in pulling across, the bow of the boat is turned to the farther shore, so that we are swept broadside down and are prevented by the rebounding waters from striking against the wall. We toss about for a few seconds in these billows and are then carried past the danger. Below, the river turns again to the right, the canyon is very narrow, and we see in advance but a short distance. The water, too, is very swift, and there is no landing-place. From around this curve there comes a mad roar, and down we are carried with a dizzying velocity to the head of another rapid. On either side high over our heads there are overhanging gran- ite walls, and the sharp bends cut off our view, so that a few minutes will carry us into unknown waters. Away we go on one long, winding chute. I stand on deck, supporting myself with a strap fastened on either side of the gunwale. The boat glides rapidly where the water is smooth, then, striking a wave, she leaps and bounds like a thing of life, and we have a wild, exhilarating ride for ten miles, which we make in less than an hour. The excitement is so great that we forget the danger until we hear the roar of a great fall below j then we back on our oars and are carried slowly toward its head and succeed in landing just above and find that we have to make another portage. At this we are engaged until some time after dinner. Just here we run out of the granite. Ten miles in less than half a day, and limestone walls below. Good cheer returns ; we forget the storms and the gloom and the cloud-covered canyons and the black granite and the raging river, and push our boats from shore in great glee. Though we are out of the granite, the river is still swift, and we wheel about a point again to the right, and turn, so as to head back in the 268 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. direction from which we came ; this brings the granite in sight again, with its narrow gorge and black crags j but we meet with no more great falls or rapids. Still, we run cautiously and stop from time to time to examine some places which look bad. Yet we make ten miles this afternoon ; twenty miles in all to-day. August 22. — We come to rapids again this morning and are occupied several hours in passiug them, letting the boats down from rock to rock with lines for nearly half a mile, and then have to make a long portage. While the men are engaged in this I climb the wall on the northeast to a height of about 2,500 feet, where I can obtain a good view of a long stretch of canyon below. Its course is to the southwest. The walls seem to rise very abruptly for 2,500 or 3,000 feet, and then there is a gently sloping terrace on each side for two or three miles, when we again find cliffs, 1,500 or 2,000 feet high. From the brink of these the plateau stretches back to the north and south for a long distance. Away down the canyon on the right wall I can see a group of mountains, some of which appear to stand on the brink of the canyon. The effect of the terrace is to give the appearance of a narrow winding valley with high walls on either side and a deep, dark, meandering gorge down its middle. It is imx>ossible from this point of view to determine whether or not we haA^e granite at the bottom ; but from geologic considerations, I conclude that we shall have marble walls below. After my return to the boats we run another mile and camp for the night. We have made but little over seven miles to-day, and a part of our flour has been soaked in the river again. August 23. — Our way to-day is again through marble walls. Now and then we pass for a short distance through patches of granite, like hills thrust up into the limestone. At one of these places we have to make another portage, and, taking advantage of the delay, I go up a little stream to the north, wading it all the way, sometimes having to plunge in to my neck, in other places being compelled to swim across little basins that have been excavated at the foot of the falls. Along its course are many cascades and springs, gushing out from the rocks on either side. Sometimes a cottonwood tree grows over the water. I come to one beautiful fall, of more than 150 feet, and climb around it to the right on the broken rocks. Still going up, the canyon is found to narrow very KANAB CANYON, NEAR THE JUNCTION. TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 271 much, being but 15 or 20 feet wide ; yet the walls rise on either side many hundreds of feet, perhaps thousands ; I can hardly tell. In some places the stream has not excavated its channel down verti- cally through the rocks, but has cut obliquely, so that one wall over- hangs the other. In other places it is cut vertically above and obliquely below, or obliquely above and vertically below, so that it is impossible to see out overhead. But I can go no farther ; the time which I estimated it would take to make the portage has almost expired, and I start back on a round trot, wading in the creek where I must and plunging through basins. The men are waiting for me, and away we go on the river. Just after dinner we pass a stream on the right, which leaps into the Colorado by a direct fall of more than 100 feet, forming a beautiful cas- cade. There is a bed of very hard rock above, 30 or 40 feet in thick- ness, and there are much softer beds below. The hard beds above project many yards beyond the softer, which are washed out, forming a deep cave behind the fall, and the stream pours through a narrow crevice above into a deep pool below. Around on the rocks in the cavelike chamber are set beautiful ferns, with delicate fronds and enameled stalks. The frondlets have their points turned down to form spore cases. It has very much the appearance of the maidenhair fern, but is much larger. This delicate foliage covers the rocks all about the fountain, and gives the chamber great beauty. But we have little time to spend in admira- tion ; so on we go. We make fine progress this afternoon, carried along by a swift river, shooting over the rapids and finding no serious obstructions. The can- yon walls for 2,500 or 3,000 feet are very regular, rising almost perpen- dicularly, but here and there set with narrow steps, and occasionally we can see away above the broad terrace to distant cliffs. We camp to-night in a marble cave, and find on looking at our reckon- ing that we have run 22 miles. August 2Jf. — The canyon is wider to-day. The walls rise to a vertical height of nearly 3,000 feet. In many places the river runs under a cliff in great curves, forming amphitheaters half- dome shaped. Though the river is rapid, we meet with no serious obstructions and run 20 miles. How anxious we are to make up our reckoning every time we stop, now that our diet is confined to plenty of coffee, a very 272 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. little spoiled flour, and very few dried apples ! It has come to be a race for a dinner. Still, we make such fine progress that all hands are in good cheer, but not a moment of daylight is lost. August 25. — We make 12 miles this morning, when we come to monu- ments of lava standing in the river, — low rocks mostly, but some of them shafts more than a hundred feet high. Going on down three or four miles, we find them increasing in number. Great quantities of cooled lava and many cinder cones are seen on either side ; and then we come to an abrupt cataract. Just over the fall on the right wall a cinder cone, or extinct volcano, with a well-defined crater, stands on the very brink of the canyon. This, doubtless, is the one we saw two or three days ago. From this volcano vast floods of lava have been poured down into the river, and a stream of molten rock has run up the canyon three or four miles and down we know not how far. Just where it poured over the canyon wall is the fall. The whole north side as far as we can see is lined with the black basalt, and high up on the opposite wall are patches of the same material, resting on the benches and filling old alcoves and caves, giving the wall a spotted appearance. The rocks are broken in two along a line which here crosses the river, and the beds we have seen while coming down the canyon for the last 30 miles have dropped 800 feet on the lower side of the line, forming what geologists call a " fault." The volcanic cone stands directly over the fissure thus formed. On the left side of the river, opposite, mammoth springs burst out of this crevice, 100 or 200 feet above the river, pour- ing in a stream quite equal in volume to the Colorado Chiquito. This stream seems to be loaded with carbonate of lime, and the water, evaporating, leaves an incrustation on the rocks ; and this process has been continued for a long time, for extensive deposits are noticed in which are basins with bubbling springs. The water is salty. We have to make a portage here, which is completed in about three hours ; then on we go. We have no difficulty as we float along, and I am able to observe the wonderful phenomena connected with this flood of lava. The canyon was doubtless filled to a height of 1,200 or 1,500 feet, perhaps by more than one flood. This would dam the water back ; and in cutting through this great lava bed, a new channel has been formed, sometimes on one KANAB CANYON, IN THE RED WALL LIMESTONE. 274 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. side, sometimes on the other. The cooled lava, being of firmer texture than the rocks of which the walls are composed, remains in some places ; in others a narrow channel has been cut, leaving a line of basalt on either side. It is possible that the lava cooled faster on the sides against the walls and that the center ran out ; but of this we can only conjecture. There are other places where almost the whole of the lava is gone, only patches of it being seen where it has caught on the walls. As we float down we can see that it ran out into side canyons. In some places this basalt has a fine, columnar structure, often in concentric prisms, and masses of these concentric columns have coalesced. In some places, when the flow occurred the canyon was probably about the same depth that it is now, for we can see where the basalt has rolled out on the sands, and — what seems curious to me — the sands are not melted or metamor- phosed to any appreciable extent. In places the bed of the river is of sandstone or limestone, in other places of lava, showing that it has all been cut out again where the sandstones and limestones appear ; but there is a little yet left where the bed is of lava. What a conflict of water and fire there must have been here ! Just imagine a river of molten rock running down into a river of melted snow. What a seething and boiling of the waters ; what clouds of steam rolled into the heavens ! Thirty-five miles to-day. Hurrah ! August 26. — The canyon walls are steadily becoming higher as we ad- vance. They are still bold and nearly vertical up to the terrace. We still see evidence of the eruption discovered yesterday, but the thickness of the basalt is decreasing as we go down stream j yet it has been reinforced at points by streams that have come down from volcanoes standing on the terrace above, but which we cannot see from the river below. Since we left the Colorado Chiquito we have seen no evidences that the tribe of Indians inhabiting the plateaus on either side ever come down to the river ; but about eleven o'clock to-day we discover an Indian gar- den at the foot of the wall on the right, just where a little stream with a narrow flood plain comes down through a side canyon. Along the valley the Indians have planted corn, using for irrigation the water which bursts out in springs at the foot of the cliff. The corn is looking quite TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 275 well, but it is not sufficiently ad- vanced to give us roasting ears ; but there are some nice green squashes. We carry ten or a dozen of these on board our boats and hurriedly leave, not willing to be caught in the robbery, yet ex- cusing ourselves by pleading our great want. We run down a short dis- tance to where we feel certain no In- dian can follow, and what a kettle of squash sauce we make ! True, we have no salt with which to season it, but it makes a fine addition to our un- leavened bread and coffee. Never was fruit so sweet as these stolen squashes. After dinner we push on again and make fine time, finding many rapids, but none so bad that we cannot run them with safety ; and when we stop, just at dusk, and foot up our reckoning, we find we have run 35 miles again. A few days like this, and we are out of prison. We have a royal supper- — unleavened bread, green squash sauce, and strong coffee. We have been for a few days on half rations, but now have no stint of roast squash. THE BRINK OF THE INNER GORGE. TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 277 August 27. — This morning the river takes a more southerly direction. The dip of the rocks is to the north and we are running rapidly into lower formations. Unless our course changes we shall very soon run again into the granite. This gives some anxiety. Now and then the river turns to the west and excites hopes that are soon destroyed by an- other turn to the south. About nine o'clock we come to the dreaded rock. It is with no little misgiving that we see the river enter these black, hard walls. At its very entrance we have to make a portage ; then let down with lines past some ugly rocks. We run a mile or two farther, and then the rapids below can be seen. About eleven o'clock we come to a place in the river which seems much worse than any we have yet met in all its course. A little creek comes down from the left. We land first on the right and clamber up over the granite pinnacles for a mile or two, but can see no way by which to let down, and to run it would be sure destruction. After dinner we cross to examine on the left. High above the river we can walk along on the top of the granite, which is broken off at the edge and set with crags and pinnacles, so that it is very difficult to get a view of the river at all. In my eagerness to reach a point where I can see the roaring fall below, I go too far on the wall, and can neither advance nor retreat. I stand with one foot on a little projecting rock and cling with my hand fixed in a little crevice. Finding I am caught here, suspended 400 feet above the river, into which I must fall if my footing fails, I call for help. The men come and pass me a line, but I cannot let go of the rock long enough to take hold of it. Then they bring two or three of the largest oars. All this takes time which seems very precious to me ; but at last they arrive. The blade of one of the oars is pushed into a little crevice in the rock beyond me in such a manner that they can hold me pressed against the wall. Then another is fixed in such a way that I can step on it ; and thus I am extricated. Still another hour is spent in examining the river from this side, but no good view of it is obtained ; so now we return to the side that was first examined, and the afternoon is spent in clambering among the crags and pinnacles and carefully scanning the river again. We find that the lateral streams have washed boulders into the river, so as to form a dam, over which the water makes a broken fall of 18 or 20 feet ; then there is 278 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. a rapid, beset with rocks, for 200 or 300 yards, while on the other side, points of the wall project into the river. Below, there is a second fall ; how great, we cannot tell. Then there is a rapid, filled with huge rocks, for 100 or 200 yards. At the bottom of it, from the right wall, a great rock projects quite halfway across the river. It has a sloping surface extending up stream, and the water, coming down with all the momen- tum gained in the falls and rapids above, rolls up this inclined plane many feet, and tumbles over to the left. I decide that it is possible to let down over the first fall, then run near the right cliff to a point just above the second, where we can pull out into a little chute, and, having run over that in safety, if we pull with all our power across the stream, we may avoid the great rock below. On my return to the boat I an- no ance to the men that we are to run it in the morning. Then we cross the river and go into camp for the night on some rocks in the mouth of the little side canyon. After supper Captain Howland asks to have a talk with me. We walk up the little creek a short distance, and I soon find that his object is to remonstrate against my determination to proceed. He thinks that we had better abandon the river here. Talking with him, I learn that he, his brother, and William Dunn have determined to go no farther in the boats. So we return to camp. Nothing is said to the other men. For the last two days our course has not been plotted. I sit down and do this now, for the purpose of finding where we are by dead reckoning. It is a clear night, and I take out the sextant to make observation for latitude, and I find that the astronomic determination agrees very nearly with that of the plot — quite as closely as might be expected from a meridian observation on a planet. In a direct line, we must be about 45 miles from the mouth of the Eio Yirgen. If we can reach that point, we know that there are settlements up that river about 20 miles. This 45 miles in a direct line will probably be 80 or 90 by the meandering line of the river. But then we know that there is comparatively open country for many miles above the mouth of the Yirgen, which is our point of destination. As soon as I determine all this, I spread my plot on the sand and wake Howland, who is sleeping down by the river, and show him where I suppose we are, and where several Mormon settlements are situated. TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 279 We have another short talk about the morrow, and he lies down again j but for me there is no sleep. All night long I pace up and down a little path, on a few yards of sand beach, along by the river. Is it wise to go on f I go to the boats again to look at our rations. I feel satisfied that we can get over the danger immediately before us ; what there may be below I know not. From our outlook yes- terday on the cliffs, the can- yon seemed to make another great bend to the south, and this, from our experience heretofore, means more and higher granite walls. I am not sure that we can climb out of the canyon here, and, if at the top of the wall, I know enough of the country to be certain that it is a desert of rock and sand between this and the nearest Mormon town, which, on the most direct line, must be 75 miles away. True, the late rains have been favor- able to us, should we go out, for the probabilities are that we shall find water still stand- ing in holes ; and at one time I almost conclude to leave the river. But for years I have CLIMBING THE GRAND CANYON WALL. 280 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. been contemplating this trip. To leave the exploration unfinished, to say that there is a part of the canyon which I cannot explore, having already nearly accomplished it, is more than I am willing to acknowl- edge, and I determine to go on. I wake my brother and tell him of Howland' s determination, and he promises to stay with me j then I call up Hawkins, the cook, and he makes a like promise ; then Sumner and Bradley and Hall, and they all agree to go on. August 28. — At last daylight comes and we have breakfast without a word being said about the future. The meal is as solemn as a funeral. After breakfast I ask the three men if they still think it best to leave us. The elder Howland thinks it is, and Dunn agrees with him. The younger Howland tries to persuade them to go on with the party ; failing in which, he decides to go with his brother. Then we cross the river. The small boat is very much disabled and unseaworthy. With the loss of hands, consequent on the departure of the three men, we shall not be able to run all of the boats ; so I decide to leave my "Emma Dean." Two rifles and a shotgun are given to the men who are going out. I ask them to help themselves to the rations and take what they think to be a fair share. This they refuse to do, saying they haVe no fear but that they can get something to eat j but Billy, the cook, has a pan of biscuits prepared for dinner, and these he leaves on a rock. Before starting, we take from the boat our barometers, fossils, the minerals, and some ammunition and leave them on the rocks. We are going over this place as light as possible. The three men help us lift our boats over a rock 25 or 30 feet high and let them down again over the first fall, and now we are all ready to start. The last thing before leaving, I write a letter to my wife and give it to Howland. Sumner gives him his watch, directing that it be sent to his sister should he not be heard from again. The records of the expedition have been kept in duplicate. One set of these is given to Howland ; and now we are ready. For the last time they entreat us not to go on, and tell us that it is madness to set out in this place ; that we can never get safely through it ; and, further, that the river turns again to the south into the granite, and a few miles of such rapids and falls will exhaust our entire stock of rations, and then TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON, 281 it will be too late to climb out. Some tears are shed ; it is rather a solemn parting ; each, party thinks the other is taking the dangerous course. My old boat left, I go on board of the "Maid of the Can- yon. ? ' The three men climb a crag that overhangs the river to watch us off. The "Maid of the Can- yon" pushes out. We glide rapidly along the foot of the wall, just grazing one great rock, then pull out a little into the chute of the second fall and plunge over it. The open com- partment is filled when we strike the first wave below, but we cut through it, and then the men pull with all their power toward the left wall and swing clear of the dangerous rock below all right. We are scarcely a minute in running it, and find that, although it looked bad from above, we have passed many places that were worse. The other boat follows without more difficulty. We land at the first TRIANGULATION STATION. 282 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. practicable point below, and fire our guns, as a signal to the men above that we have come over in safety. Here we remain a couple of hours, hoping that they will take the smaller boat and follow us. We are be- hind a curve in the canyon and cannot see up to where we left them, and so we wait until their coming seems hopeless, and then push on. And now we have a succession of rapids and falls until noon, all of which we run in safety. Just after dinner we come to another bad place. A little stream comes in from the left, and below there is a fall, and still below another fall. Above, the river tumbles down, over and among the rocks, in whirlpools and great waves, and the waters are lashed into mad, white foam. We run along the left, above this, and soon see that we cannot get down on this side, but it seems possible to let down on the other. We pull up stream again for 200 or 300 yards and cross. Now there is a bed of basalt on this northern side of the canyon, with a bold escarpment that seems to be a hundred feet high. We can climb it and walk along its summit to a point where we are just at the head of the fall. Here the basalt is broken down again, so it seems to us, and I direct the men to take a line to the top of the cliff and let the boats down along the wall. One man remains in the boat to keep her clear of the rocks and prevent her line from being caught on the projecting angles. I climb the cliff and pass along to a point just over the fall and descend by broken rocks, and find that the break of the fall is above the break of the wall, so that we cannot land, and that still below the river is very bad, and that there is no possibility of a portage. Without waiting further to examine and determine what shall be done, I hasten back to the top of the cliff to stop the boats from coming down. When I arrive I find the men have let one of them down to the head of the fall. She is in swift water and they are not able to pull her back ; nor are they able to go on with the line, as it is not long enough to reach the higher part of the cliff which is just before them ; so they take a bight around a crag. I send two men back for the other line. The boat is in very swift water, and Bradley is standing in the open compartment, holding out his oar to prevent her from striking against the foot of the cliff. Now she shoots out into the stream and up as far as the line will permit, and then, wheeling, drives headlong against the rock, and then out and back again, now straining TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON". 283 on the line, now striking against the rock. As soon as the second line is brought, we pass it down to him ; but his attention is all taken up with his own situation, and he does not see that we are passing him the line. I stand on a projecting rock, waving my hat to gain his attention, for my voice is drowned by the roaring of the falls. Just at this moment I see him take his knife from its sheath and step forward to cut the line. He has evidently de- cided that it is better to go over with the boat as it is than to wait for her to be broken to pieces. As he leans over, the boat sheers again into the stream, the stem-post breaks away and she is loose. With perfect compos- ure Bradley seizes the great scull oar, places it in the stern rowlock, and pulls with all his power (and he is an athlete) to turn the bow of the boat down stream, for he wishes to go bow down, rather than to drift broad- side on. One, two strokes he makes, and a third just as she goes over, and the boat is fairly turned, and she goes down almost beyond our sight, though we are more than a hundred feet above the river. Then she comes up again on a great wave, and down and up, then around behind some great rocks, and is lost in the mad, white foam below. We stand frozen with fear, for we see no boat. Bradley is gone ! so it seems. But now, away below, we see something coming out of the waves. It is evi- CAVATE HOUSES. 284 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. dently a boat. A moment more, and we see Bradley standing on deck, swinging his hat to show that he is all right. Bnt he is in a whirlpool. We have the stem-post of his boat attached to the line. How badly she may be disabled we know not. I direct Sumner and Powell to pass along the cliff and see if they can reach him from below. Hawkins, Hall, and myself run to the other boat, jump aboard, push out, and away we go over the falls. A wave rolls over us and our boat is unmanageable. Another great wave strikes us, and the boat rolls over, and tumbles and tosses, I know not how. All I know is that Bradley is picking us up. We soon have all right again, and row to the cliff and wait until Sumner and Powell can come. After a difficult climb they reach us. We run two or three miles farther and turn again to the northwest, continuing until night, when we have run out of the granite once more. August 29. — We start very early this morning. The river still con- tinues swift, but we have no serious difficulty, and at twelve o'clock emerge from the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. We are in a valley now, and low mountains are seen in the distance, coming to the river be- low. We recognize this as the Grand Wash. A few years ago a party of Mormons set out from St. George, Utah, taking with them a boat, and came down to the Grand Wash, where they divided, a portion of the party crossing the river to explore the San Francisco Mountains. Three men — Hamblin, Miller, and Crosby — taking the boat, went on down the river to Callville, landing a few miles below the mouth of the Rio Yirgen. We have their manuscript journal with us, and so the stream is comparatively well known. To-night we camp on the left bank, in a mesquite thicket. The relief from danger and the joy of success are great. When he who has been chained by wounds to a hospital cot until his canvas tent seems like a dungeon cell, until the groans of those who lie about tor- tured with probe and knife are piled up, a weight of horror on his ears that he cannot throw off, cannot forget, and until the stench of festering wounds and anaesthetic drugs has filled the air with its loathsome burthen, — when he at last goes out into the open field, what a world he sees ! How beautiful the sky, how bright the sunshine, what " floods of delirious music ' ' pour from the throats of birds, how sweet the fragrance TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 285 of earth and tree and blossom ! The first hour of convalescent freedom seems rich recompense for all pain and gloom and terror. Something like these are the feelings we experience to-night. Ever before us has been an unknown danger, heavier than immediate peril. Every waking hour passed in the Grand Canyon has been one of toil. We have watched with deep solicitude the steady disappearance of our scant supply of rations, and from time to time have seen the river snatch a portion of the little left, while we were a-hungered. And danger and toil were endured in those gloomy depths, where ofttimes clouds hid the sky by day and but a narrow zone of stars could be seen at night. Only during the few hours of deep sleep, consequent on hard labor, has the roar of the waters been hushed. Now the danger is over, now the toil has ceased, now the gloom has disappeared, now the firma- ment is bounded only by the ^^ra horizon, and what a vast ex- panse of constellations can be seen ! The river rolls by us in silent majesty ; the quiet of the camp is sweet ; our joy is almost ecstasy. We sit till long after midnight talking of the Grand Canyon, talking of home, but talking chiefly of the three men who left us. Are they wandering in those depths, unable to find a way out % Are they searching over the desert lands above for water? Or are they nearing the settlements? standing rocks. August SO. — We run in two or three short, low canyons to-day, and on emerging from one we discover a band of Indians in the valley below. They see us, and scamper away in eager haste to hide among the rocks. Although we land and call for them to return, not an Indian can.be seen. 286 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. Two or three miles farther down, in turning a short bend of the river, we come upon another camp. So near are we before they can see us that I can shout to them, and, being able to speak a little of their language, I tell them we are friends ; but they all flee to the rocks, except a man, a woman, and two children. "We land and talk with them. They are without lodges, but have built little shelters of boughs, under which they wallow in the sand. The man is dressed in a hat ; the woman, in a string of beads only. At first they are evidently much terrified ; but when I talk to them in their own language and tell them we are friends, and inquire after people in the Mormon towns, they are soon reassured and beg for tobacco. Of this precious article we have none to spare. Sumner looks around in the boat for something to give them, and finds a little piece of colored soap, which they receive as a valuable present, — rather as a thing of beauty than as a useful commodity, however. They are either unwilling or unable to tell us anything about the Indians or white people, and so we push off, for we must lose no time. We camp at noon under the right bank. And now as we push out we are in great expectancy, for we hope every minute to discover the mouth of the Rio Virgen. Soon one of the men exclaims: u Yonder' s an Indian in the river. ' 7 Looking for a few minutes, we certainly do see two or three persons. The men bend to their oars and pull toward them. Approaching, we see that there are three white men and an Indian hauling a seine, and then we discover that it is just at the mouth of the long-sought river. As we come near, the men seem far less surprised to see us than we do to see them. They evidently know who we are, and on talking with them they tell us that we have been reported lost long ago, and that some weeks before a messenger had been sent from Salt Lake City with instructions for them to watch for any fragments or relics of our party that might drift down the stream. Our new-found friends, Mr. Asa and his two sons, tell us that they are pioneers of a town that is to be built on the bank. Eighteen or twenty miles up the valley of the Rio Virgen there are two Mormon towns, St. Joseph and St. Thomas. To-night we dispatch an Indian to the last- mentioned place to bring any letters that may be there for us. Our arrival here is very opportune. When we look over our store of TO THE FOOT OF THE GRAND CANYON. 287 supplies, we find about 10 pounds of flour, 15 pounds of dried apples, but 70 or 80 pounds of coffee. August 31. — This afternoon the Indian returns with a letter informing us that Bishop Leithhead of St. Thomas and two or three other Mormons are coming down with a wagon, bringing us supplies. They arrive about sundown. Mr. Asa treats us with great kindness to the extent of his ability ; but Bishop Leithhead brings in his wagon two or three dozen melons and many other little luxuries, and we are comfortable once more. Septeinber 1. — This morning Sumner, Bradley, Hawkins, and Hall, taking on a small supply of rations, start- down the Colorado with the boats. It is their intention to go to Fort Mojave, and perhaps from there overland to Los Angeles. Captain Powell and myself return with Bishop Leithhead to St. Thomas. From St. Thomas we go to Salt Lake City. I||:i;; ■;'-: ..,:\? rt CHAPTER XII. THE EIO VIEGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. A YEAR lias passed, and we have determined to resume the explora- tion of the canyons of the Colorado. Our last trip was so hurried, owing to the loss of rations, and the scientific instru- ments were so badly injured, that we are not satisfied with the results obtained ; so we shall once more attempt to pass through the canyons in boats, devoting two or three years to the trip. It will not be possible to carry in the boats sufficient supplies for the party for that length of time ; so it is thought best to establish depots of supplies, at intervals of 100 or 200 miles along the river. Between Gunnison's Crossing and the foot of the Grand Canyon, we know of only two points where the river can be reached — one at the Crossing of the Fathers, and another a few miles below, at the mouth of the Paria, on a route which has been explored by Jacob Hamblin, a Mormon missionary. These two points are so near each other that only one of them can be selected for the purpose above mentioned, and others must be found. We have been unable up to this time to ob- tain, either from Indians or white men, any information which will give us a clue to any other trail to the river. At the headwaters of the Sevier, we are on the summit of a great watershed. The Sevier itself flows north and then westward into the lake of the same name. The Rio Virgen, heading near by, flows to the southwest into the Colorado, 60 or 70 miles below the Grand Canyon. The Kanab, also heading near by, runs directly south into the very heart of the Grand Canyon. The Paria, likewise heading near by, runs a little south of east and enters the river at the head of Marble Canyon. To the northeast from this point, other streams which run into the Colorado have their sources, until, 40 or 50 miles away, we reach the 290 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. southern branches of the Dirty Devil River, the mouth of which stream is but a short distance below the junction of the Grand and Green. The Paunsa'gunt Plateau terminates in a point, which is bounded by a line of beautiful pink cliffs. At the foot of this plateau, on the west, the Eio Virgen and Sevier River are dovetailed together, as their minute upper branches interlock. The upper surface of the plateau inclines to the northeast, so that its ilt; waters roll off into the Sevier MARY'S VEIL ; THE UPPER FALL ON PINE CREEK, A SMALL TRIBUTARY OF THE SEVIER. but from the foot of the cliffs, quite around the sharp angle of the plateau, for a dozen miles, we find numerous springs, whose waters unite to form the Kanab. A little farther to the northeast the springs gather into streams that feed the Paria. Here, by the upper springs of the Kanab, we make a camp, and from this point we are to radiate on a series of trips, southwest, south, and east. Jacob Hamblin, who has been a missionary among the Indians for more than twenty years, has collected a number of Kai'vavits, with Chuar'- ruumpeak, their chief, and they are all camped with us. They assure us that we can- not reach the river, that we cannot make our way into the depths of the canyon, but promise to show us the springs and water pockets, which are very scarce in all THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 291 this region, and to give us all the information in their power. Here we fit up a pack train, for our bedding and instruments and supplies are to be carried on the backs of mules and ponies. September 5, 1870. — The several members of the party are engaged in general preparation for our trip down to the Grand Canyon. Taking with me a white man and an Indian, I start on a climb to the summit of the Paunsa'gunt Plateau, which rises above us on the east. Our way for a mile or more is over a great peat bog, which trembles under our feet, and now and then a mule sinks through the broken turf and we are compelled to pull it out with ropes. Passing the bog, our way is up a gulch at the foot of the Pink Cliffs, which form the escarpment, or wall, of the great plateau. Soon we leave the gulch and climb a long ridge which winds around to the right toward the summit of the great table. Two hours' riding, climb- ing, and clambering bring us near the top. We look below and see clouds drifting up from the south and rolling tumultuously toward the foot of the cliffs beneath us. Soon all the country below is cov- ered with a sea of vapor — a billowy, raging, noiseless sea — and as the vapory flood still rolls up from the south, piLLINQ , s CASCADE: THE L0WER PALLS great waves dash against the on pine creek. 292 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. foot of the cliffs and roll back ; another tide comes in, is hurled back, and another and another, lashing the cliffs nntil the fog rises to the summit and covers us all. There is a heavy pine and fir forest above, beset with dead and fallen timber, and we make our way through the under- growth to the east. It rains. The clouds discharge their moisture in torrents, and we make for ourselves shelters of boughs, only to be soon abandoned, and we stand shivering by a great fire of pine logs and boughs, which the pelting storm half extinguishes. One, two, three, four hours of the storm, and at last it partially abates. During this time our animals, which we have turned loose, have sought for themselves shelter under the trees, and two of them have wandered away beyond our sight. I go out to follow their tracks, and come near to the brink of a ledge of rocks, which, in the fog and mist, I suppose to be a little ridge, and I look for a way by which I can go down. Standing just here, there is a rift made in the fog below by some current or blast of wind, which reveals an almost bottomless abyss. I look from the brink of a great precipice of more than 2, 000 feet ; but through the mist the forms are half obscured and all reckoning of distance is lost, and it seems 10,000 feet, ten miles — any distance the imagination desires to make it. Catching our animals, we return to the camp. We find that the little streams which come down from the plateau are greatly swollen, but at camp they have had no rain. The clouds which drifted up from the south, striking against the plateau, were lifted up into colder regions and discharged their moisture on the summit and against the sides of the plateau, but there was no rain in the valley below. September 9. — We make a fair start this morning from the beautiful meadow at the head of the Kanab, cross the line of little hills at the head- waters of the Eio Yirgen, and pass, to the south, a pretty valley. At ten o'clock we come to the brink of a great geographic bench — a line of ABORIGINAL LAD- DER. THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 293 cliffs. Behind us are cool springs, green meadows, and forest- clad slopes 5 below us, stretching to the south until the world is lost in blue haze, is a painted desert — not a desert plain, but a desert of rocks cut by deep gorges and relieved by towering cliffs and pinnacled rocks — naked rocks, brilliant in the sunlight. By a difficult trail we make our way down the basaltic ledge, through which innumerable streams here gather into a little river running in a deep canyon. The river runs close to the foot of the cliffs on the right- hand side and the trail passes along to the right. At noon we rest and our animals feed on luxuriant grass. Again we start and make slow progress along a stony way. At night we camp under an overarching cliff. September 10. — Here the river turns to the west, and our way, properly, is to the south ; but we wish to explore the Eio Yirgen as far as possible. The Indians tell us that the canyon narrows gradually a few miles below and that it will be impossible to take our animals much farther down the river. Early in the morning I go down to ex- amine the head of this narrow part. After break- fast, having concluded to explore the canyon for a few miles on foot, we arrange that the main party shall climb the cliff and go around to a point 18 or 20 miles below, where, the Indians say, the animals can be taken down by the river, and three of us set out on foot. The Indian name of the canyon is Paru'nuweap, or Koaring Water Canyon. Between the little river and the foot of the walls is a dense growth of willows, vines, and wild rosebushes, and with great difficulty we make our way through this tangled mass. It is not a wide stream — only 20 or 30 feet across in most places ; shallow, but very swift. After spending some hours in breaking our way through the mass of veg- etation and climbing rocks here and there, it is de- termined to wade along the stream. In some places this is an easy task, but here and there we come to deep holes where we have to wade to our armpits. Soon we come to places so narrow ANOTHER STYLE OF LADDER. 294 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. that the river fills the entire channel and we wade perforce. In many places the bottom is a quicksand, into which we sink, and it is with great difficulty that we make progress. In some places the holes are so deep that we have to swim, and our little bundles of blankets and rations are fixed to a raft made of driftwood and pushed before us. Now and then there is a little flood- plain, on which we can walk, and we cross and recross the stream and wade along the channel where the water is so swift as almost to carry us off our feet and we are in danger every moment of being swept down, until night comes on. Finding a little patch of flood-plain, on which there is a huge pile of driftwood and a clump of box-elders, and near by a mammoth stream bursting from the rocks, we soon have a huge fire. Our clothes are spread to dry ; we make a cup of coffee, take out our bread and cheese and dried beef, and enjoy a hearty supper. We estimate that we have traveled eight miles to-day. The canyon here is about 1,200 feet deep. It has been very narrow and winding all the way down to this point. September 11. — Wading again this morning ; sinking in the quicksand, swimming the deep waters, and making slow and painful progress where the waters are swift and the bed of the stream rocky. The canyon is steadily becoming deeper and in many places very nar- row — only 20 or 30 feet wide below, and in some places no wider, and even narrower, for hundreds of feet overhead. There are places where the river in sweeping by curves has cut far under the rocks, but still pre- serves its narrow channel, so that there is an overhanging wall on one side and an inclined wall on the other. In places a few hundred feet above, it becomes vertical again, and thus the view to the sky is entirely closed. Everywhere this deep passage is dark and gloomy and resounds with the noise of rapid waters. At noon we are in a canyon 2, 500 feet deep, and we come to a fall where the walls are broken down and huge rocks beset the channel, on which we obtain a foothold to reach a level 200 feet below. Here the canyon is again wider, and we find a flood-plain along which we can walk, now on this, and now on that side of the stream. Gradually the canyon widens ; steep rapids, cascades, and cataracts are found along the river, but we wade only when it is neces- sary to cross. We make progress with very great labor, having to climb over piles of broken rocks. THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 295 Late in the afternoon we come to a little clearing in the valley and see other signs of civilization and by sundown arrive at the Mormon town ENTRANCE TO PARU'NUWEAP. of Schunesburg ; and here we meet the train, and feast on melons and grapes. September 12. — Our course for the last two days, through Paru'nuweap Canyon, was directly to the west. Another stream comes down from the north and unites just here at Schunesburg with the main branch of the Eio Yirgen. We determine to spend a day in the exploration of this stream. The Indians call the canyon through which it runs, Mukun'tu- weap, or Straight, Canyon. Entering this, we have to wade upstream ; often the water fills the entire channel and, although we travel many 296 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. miles, we find no flood-plain, talus, or broken piles of rock at the foot of the cliff. The walls have smooth, plain faces and are everywhere very regular and vertical for a thousand feet or more, where they seem to break back in shelving slopes to higher altitudes ; and everywhere, as we go along, we find springs bursting out at the foot of the walls, and passing these the river above becomes steadily smaller. The great body of water which runs below bursts out from beneath this great bed of red sandstone j as we go up the canyon, it comes to be but a creek, and then a brook. On the western wall of the canyon stand some buttes, TOWERS ON THE RIO VTRGEN. towers, and high pinnacled rocks. Going up the canyon, we gain glimpses of them, here and there. Last summer, after our trip through THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 297 the canyons of the Colorado, on our way from the mouth of the Virgen to Salt Lake City, these were seen as conspicuous landmarks from a dis- tance away to the southwest of 60 or 70 miles. These tower rocks are known as the Temples of the Virgen. Having explored this canyon nearly to its head, we return to Schunes- burg, arriving quite late at night. Sitting in camp this evening, Chuar'ruumpeak, the chief of the Kai'vavits, who is one of our party, tells us there is a tradition among the tribes of this country that many years ago a great light was seen somewhere in this region by the Paru'shapats, who lived to the southwest, and that they supposed it to be a signal kindled to warn them of the ap- proach of the Navajos, who lived beyond the Colorado Eiver to the east. Then other signal fires were kindled on the Pine Valley Mountains, Santa Clara Mountains, and Uinkaret Mountains, so that all the tribes of north- ern Arizona, southern Utah, southern Nevada, and southern California were warned of the approaching danger ; but when the Paru'shapats came nearer, they discovered that it was a fire on one of the great temples ; and then they knew that the fire was not kindled by men, for no human being could scale the rocks. The Tu'muurrugwait'sigaip, or Eock Eovers, had kindled a fire to deceive the people. So, in the Indian language this is called Tu'muurrugwait'sigaip Tuiveap', or Eock Eovers' Land. September 13. — We start very early this morning, for we have a long day's travel before us. Our way is across the Eio Virgen to the south. Coming to the bank of the stream here, we find a strange metamorpho- sis. The streams we have seen above, running in narrow channels, leap- ing and plunging over the rocks, raging and roaring in their course, are here united and spread in a thin sheet several hundred yards wide and only a few inches deep, but running over a bed of quicksand. Crossing the stream, our trail leads up a narrow canyon, not very deep, and then among the hills of golden, red, and purple shales and marls. Climbing out of the valley of the Eio Virgen, we pass through a forest of dwarf cedars and come out at the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs. All day we fol- low this Indian trail toward the east, and at night camp at a great spring, known to the Indians as Yellow Eock Spring, but to the Mormons as Pipe Spring ; and near by there is a cabin in which some Mormon 298 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. herders find shelter. Pipe Spring is a point jnst across the Utah line in Arizona, and we suppose it to be about 60 miles from the river. Here r^WSa mukun'tuweap canyon. the Mormons design to build a fort another year, as an outpost for pro- tection against the Indians. We now discharge a number of the Indians, but take two with us for THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 299 the purpose of showing us the springs, for they are very scarce, very small, and not easily found. Half a dozen are not known in a district of country large enough to make as many good-sized counties in Illinois. There are no running streams, and these springs and water pockets are our sole dependence. Starting, we leave behind a long line of cliffs, many hundred feet high, composed of orange and vermilion sandstones. I have named them ' ' Vermilion Cliffs. ' ' When we are out a few miles, I look back and see the morning sun shining in splendor on their painted faces ; the salient angles are on fire, and the retreating angles are buried in shade, and I gaze on them until my vision dreams and the cliffs appear a long bank of purple clouds piled from the horizon high into the heavens. At noon we pass along a ledge of chocolate cliffs, and, taking out our sandwiches, we make a dinner as we ride along. Yesterday our Indians discussed for hours the route which we should take. There is one way, farther by 10 or 12 miles, with sure water ; an- other, shorter, where water is found sometimes ; their conclusion was that water would be found now ; and this is the way we go, yet all day long we are anxious about it. To be out two days with only the water that can be carried in two small kegs is to have our animals suffer greatly. At five o'clock we come to the spot, and there is a huge water pocket containing several barrels. What a relief! Here we camp for the night. September 15. — Up at daybreak, for it is a long day's march to the next water. They say we must " run very hard " to reach it by dark. Our course is to the south. From Pipe Spring we can see a mountain, and I recognize it as the one seen last summer from a cliff overlooking the Grand Canyon ; and I wish to reach the river just behind the moun- tain. There are Indians living in the group, of which it is the highest, whom I wish to visit on the way. These mountains are of volcanic origin, and we soon come to ground that is covered with fragments of lava. The way becomes very difficult. We have to cross deep ravines, the heads of canyons that run into the Grand Canyon. It is curious now to observe the knowledge of our Indians. There is not a trail but what they know ; every gulch and every rock seems familiar. I have prided myself on being able to grasp and retain in my mind the topog- 300 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. raphy of a country j but these Indians put me to shame. My knowl- edge is only general, embracing the more important features of a region that remains as a map engraved on my mind ; but theirs is particular. They know every rock and every ledge, every gulch and canyon, and just where to wind among these to find a pass ; and their knowledge is unerring. They cannot describe a country to you, but they can tell you all the particulars of a route. I have but one pony for the two, and they were to ride " turn about" ; but Chuar'ruumpeak, the chief, rides, and Shuts, the one-eyed, bare- legged, merry-faced pigmy, walks, and points the way with a slender cane ; then leaps and bounds by the shortest way, and sits down on a rock and waits demurely until we come, always meeting us with a jest, his face a rich mine of sunny smiles. At dusk we reach the water pocket. It is in a deep gorge on the flank of this great mountain. During the rainy season the water rolls down the mountain side, plunging over precipices, and excavates a deep basin in the solid rock below. This basin, hidden from the sun, holds water the year round. September 16. — This morning, while the men are packing the animals, I climb a little mountain near camp, to obtain a view of the country. It is a huge pile of volcanic scoria, loose and light as cinders from a forge, which give way under my feet, and I climb with great labor j but, reach- ing the summit and looking to the southeast, I see once more the laby- rinth of deep gorges that flank the Grand Canyon ; in the multitude, I cannot determine whether it is itself in view or not. The memories of grand and awful months spent in their deep, gloomy solitudes come up, and I live that life over again for a time. I supposed, before starting, that I could get a good view of the great mountain from this point ; but it is like climbing a chair to look at a castle. I wish to discover some way by which it can be ascended, as it is my intention to go to the summit before I return to the settlements. There is a cliff near the summit and I do not see any way yet. Now down I go, sliding on the cinders, making them rattle and clang. The Indians say we are to have a short ride to-day and that we shall reach an Indian village, situated by a good spring. Our way is across the spurs that put out from the great mountain as we pass it to the left. THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE TTINKARET MOUNTAINS. 301 Up and down we go across deep ravines, and the fragments of lava clank under our horses' feet ; now among cedars, now among pines, and now across mountain-side glades. At one o'clock we descend into a lovely valley, with a carpet of waving grass ; sometimes there is a little water in the upper end of it, and during some seasons the Indians we wish to find are encamped here. Chuar'ruumpeak rides on to find them, and to say we are friends, otherwise they would run away or propose to fight us, should we come without notice. Soon we see Chuar'ruumpeak riding at full speed and hear him shouting at the top of his voice, and away in the distance are two Indians scampering up the mountain side. One stops ; the other still goes on and is soon lost to view. We ride up and find Chuar'ruumpeak talking with the one who had stopped. It is one of the ladies resident in these mountain glades : she is evidently THE WITCHES' WATER, POCKET. 302 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. paying taxes, Godiva-like. She tells us that her people are at the spring ; that it is only two hours' ride ; that her good master has gone on to tell them we are coming ; and that she is harvesting seeds. We sit down and eat our luncheon and share our biscuits with the woman of the mountains; then on we go over a divide between two rounded peaks. I send the party on to the village and climb the peak on the left, riding my horse to the upper limit of trees and then tugging up afoot. From this point I can see the Grand Canyon, and I know where I am. I can see the Indian village, too, in a grassy valley, e m - bosomed in the mountains, the smoke curling up from their fires ; my men are turning out their horses and a group of natives stand around. Down the wtjnavai gathering seeds. mountain I go and reach camp at sunset. After supper we put some cedar boughs on the fire ; the dusky villagers sit around, and we have a smoke and a talk. I explain the object of my visit, and assure them of my friendly in- tentions. Then I ask them about a way down into the canyon. They tell me that years ago a way was discovered by which parties could go down, but that no one has attempted it for a long time ; that it is a very difficult and very dangerous undertaking to reach the "Big Water." Then I inquire about the Shi'vwits, a tribe that lives about THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINEARET MOUNTAINS. 303 the springs on the mountain sides and canyon cliffs to the southwest. They say that their village is now about 30 miles away, and promise to send a messenger for them to-morrow morning. Having finished our business for the evening, I ask if there is a tugwi'iiagunt in camp ; that is, if there is any one present who is skilled in relating their mythology. Chuar'ruumpeak says Tomor'rountikai, the chief of these Indians, is a very noted man for his skill in this matter ; but they both object, by saying that the season for tugwi'nai has not yet arrived. But I had anticipated this, and soon some members of the party come with pipes and tobacco, a large kettle of coffee, and a tray of biscuits, and, after sundry ceremonies of pipe lighting and smoking, we all feast, and, warmed up by this, to them, unusually good living, it is decided that the night shall be spent in relating mythology. I ask Tomor'rountikai to tell us about the So'kus Wai'unats, or One- Two Boys, and to this he agrees. The long winter evenings of an Indian camp are usually devoted to the relation of mythologic stories, which purport to give a history of an ancient race of animal gods. The stories are usually told by some old man, assisted by others of the party, who take secondary parts, while the members of the tribe gather about and make comments or receive impressions from the morals which are enforced by the story-teller, or, more properly, story-tellers j for the exercise partakes somewhat of the nature of a theatrical performance. THE SO'KUS WAI'UNATS. Tumpwinai'rogwinump, He Who Had A Stone Shirt, killed Sikor', the Crane, and stole his wife, and seeing that she had a child and thinking it would be an incumbrance to them on their travels, he ordered her to kill it. But the mother, loving the babe, hid it under her dress and carried it away to its grandmother. And Stone Shirt carried his cap- tured bride to his own land. In a few years the child grew to be a fine lad, under the care of his grandmother, and was her companion wherever she went. One day they were digging flag roots on the margin of the river and putting them in a heap on the bank. When they had been at work a little while, the boy perceived that the roots came up with greater ease than was customary and he asked the old woman the cause of this, 304 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. but she did not know ; and, as they continued their work, still the reeds came up with less effort, at which their wonder increased, until the grandmother said, "Surely, some strange thing is about to transpire." Then the boy went to the heap where they had been x^lacing the roots, and found that some one had taken them away, and he ran back, ex- claiming, " Grandmother, did you take the roots away ! " And she answered, " No, my child ; perhaps some ghost has taken them off ; let us dig no more ; come away." But the boy was not satisfied, as he greatly desired to know what all this meant ; so he searched about for a time, and at length found a man sitting under a tree, and taunted him with being a thief, and threw mud and stones at him until he broke the stranger's leg. The man answered not the boy nor resented the injuries he received, but remained silent and sorrowful ; and when his leg was broken he tied it up in sticks and bathed it in the river and sat down again under the tree and beckoned the boy to approach. When the lad came near, the stranger told him he had something of great importance to reveal. " My son," said he, "did that old woman ever tell you about your father and mother?" "No," answered the boy ; "I have never heard of them." "My son, do you see these bones scattered on the ground? Whose bones are these?" " How should I know ? " answered the boy. "It may be that some elk or deer has been killed here." "No," said the old man. "Perhaps they are the bones of a bear" ; but the old man shook his head. So the boy mentioned many other animals, but the stranger still shook his head, and finally said, "These are the bones of your father ; Stone Shirt killed him and left him to rot here on the ground like a wolf. ' ' And the boy was filled with indignation against the slayer of his father. Then the stranger asked, THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKAKET MOUNTAINS. 305 "Is your mother in yonder lodge? 77 "No," the boy replied. "Does your mother live on the banks of this river?" "I don't know my mother ; I have never seen her ; she is dead," an- swered the boy. "My son," replied the stranger, " Stone Shirt, who killed your father, stole your mother and took her away to the shore of a distant lake, and there she is his wife to-day." And the boy wept bitterly and, while the tears filled his eyes so that he could not see, the stranger disappeared. Then the boy was filled with wonder at what he had seen and heard, and malice grew in his heart against his father's enemy. He returned to the old woman and said, "Grandmother, why have you lied to me about my father and mother?" But she answered not, for she knew that a ghost had told all to the boy. And the boy fell upon the ground weeping and sobbing, until he fell into a deep sleep, when strange things were told him. His slumber con- tinued three days and £-—£ three nights and when he awoke he said to his grand- mother : "I am going away to enlist all nations in my fight." And straightway he departed. (Here the boy's travels are related with many circum- stances concerning the way he was re- ceived by the people, all given in a series of terrace fireplace and chimney op shumopavi. conversations, very lengthy ; so they will be omitted.) 306 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. Finally he returned in advance of the people whom he had enlisted, bringing with him Shinau'av, the "Wolf, and Togo'av, the Eattlesnake. When the three had eaten food, the boy said to the old woman : " Grandmother, cut me in two ! " But she demurred, saying she did not wish to kill one whom she loved so dearly. "Cut me in two !" demanded the boy ; and he gave her a stone ax, which he had brought from a distant country, and with a manner of great authority he again commanded her to cut him in two. So she A SWEAT HOUSE. stood before him and severed him in twain and fled in terror. And lo ! each part took the form of an entire man, and the one beautiful boy appeared as two, and they were so much alike no one could tell them apart. When the people or natives whom the boy had enlisted came pouring into the camp, Shinau'av and Togo'av were engaged in telling them of the wonderful thing that had happened to the boy, and that now there were two ; and they all held it to be an . augury of a successful expedition to the land of Stone Shirt. And they started on their jour- ney. THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 307 Now the boy had been told in the dream of his three days' slumber, of a magical cup, and he had brought it home with him from his journey among the nations, and the So'kus Wai'unats carried it between them, filled with water. Shinau'av walked on their right and Togo'av on their left, and the nations followed in the order in which they had been enlisted. There was a vast number of them, so that when they were stretched out in line it was one day's journey from the front to the rear of the column. When they had journeyed two days and were far out on the desert, all the people thirsted, for they found no water, and they fell down upon the sand groaning and murmuring that they had been deceived, and they cursed the One-Two. But the So'kus Wai'unats had been told in the wonderful dream of the suffering which would be endured, and that the water which they carried in the cup was to be used only in dire necessity ; and the brothers said to each other : "Now the time has come for us to drink the water." And when one had quaffed of the magical bowl, he found it still full ; and he gave it to the other to drink, and still it was full ; and the One- Two gave it to the people, and one after another did they all drink, and still the cup was full to the brim. But Shinau'av was dead, and all the people mourned, for he was a great man. The brothers held the cup over him and sprinkled him with water, when he arose and said : "Why do you disturb me ? I did have a vision of mountain brooks and meadows, of cane where honey dew was plenty." They gave him the cup and he drank also ; but when he had finished there was none left. Refreshed and rejoicing, they proceeded on their journey. The next day, being without food, they were hungry, and all were about to perish ; and again they murmured at the brothers and cursed them. But the So'kus Wai'unats saw in the distance an antelope, stand- ing on an eminence in the plain, in bold relief against the sky ; and Shinau'av knew it was the wonderful antelope with many eyes which Stone Shirt kept for his watchman j and he proposed to go and kill it, but Togo'av demurred and said : 308 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. "It were better that I should go, for he will see you aud run away." But the So'kus Wai'unats told Shinau'av to go ; and he started in a direction away to the left of where the antelope was standing, that he might make a long detour about some hills and come upon him from the other side. Togo'av went a little way from camp and called to the brothers : 1 ' Do you see me!" They answered they did not. "Hunt for me." While they were hunting for him, the Rattlesnake said : "I can see you ; you are doing so and so," telling them what they were doing ; but they could not find him. Then the Rattlesnake came forth declaring : "Now you know that when I so desire I can see others and I cannot be seen. Shinau'av cannot kill that antelope, for he has many eyes, and is the wonderful watchman of Stone Shirt ; but I can kill him, for I can go where he is and he cannot see me. ' ' So the brothers were convinced and permitted him to go ; and Togo'av went and killed the antelope. When Shinau'av saw it fall, he was very angry, for he was extremely proud of his fame as a hunter and anxious to have the honor of killing this famous antelope, and he ran up with the intention of killing Togo'av ; but when he drew near and saw the antelope was fat and would make a rich feast for the people, his anger was appeased. "What matters it," said he, "who kills the game, when we can all eat it?" So all the people were fed in abundance and they proceeded on their journey. The next day the people again suffered for water, and the magical cup was empty j but the So'kus Wai'unats, having been told in their dream what to do, transformed themselves into doves and flew away to a lake, on the margin of which was the home of Stone Shirt. Coming near to the shore, they saw two maidens bathing in the water; and the birds stood and looked, for the maidens were very beautiful. Then they flew into some bushes near by, to have a nearer view, and were caught in a snare which the girls had placed for intrusive birds. THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 309 The beautiful maidens came up and, taking the birds out of the snare, admired them very much, for they had never seen such birds before. They carried them to their father, Stone Shirt, who said : " My daughters, I very much fear these are spies from my enemies, for such birds do not live in our land." He was about to throw them into the fire, when the maidens besought him, with tears, that he would not destroy their beautiful birds ; but he yielded to their entreaties with much misgiving. Then they took the birds to the shore of the lake and set them free. When the birds were at liberty once more they flew around among the bushes until they found the magical cup which they had lost, and taking it up they carried it out into the middle of the lake and settled down upon the water, and the maidens supposed they were drowned. AN INTERIOR LODGE. The birds, when they had filled their cup, rose again and went back to the people in the desert, where they arrived just at the right time to save them with the cup of water, from which each drank ; and yet it was full until the last was satisfied, and then not a drop remained. The brothers reported that they had seen Stone Shirt and his daughters. 310 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. The next clay they came near to the home of the enemy, and the brothers, in proper person, went out to reconnoiter. Seeing a woman gleaning seeds, they drew near, and knew it was their mother, whom Stone Shirt had stolen from Sikor', the Crane. They told her they were her sons, but she denied it and said she had never had but one son ; but the boys related to her their history, with the origin of v j the two from one, and she was convinced. She tried to dissuade them from making war upon Stone Shirt, and told them that no arrow could possibly penetrate his armor, and that he was a great warrior and had no other delight than in killing his enemies, and that his daughters also were furnished with magi- cal bows and arrows, which they could shoot so fast that the arrows would fill the air like a cloud, and that it was not necessary for them to take aim, for their missiles went where they willed ; they thought the arrows to the hearts of their enemies ; and thus the maidens could kill the whole of the people before a common arrow could be shot by a common person. But the boys told her what the spirit had said in the long dream and that it had promised that Stone Shirt should be killed. They told her to go down to the lake at dawn, so as not to be endangered by the battle. During the night the So'kus "Wai'unats trans- formed themselves into mice and proceeded to the home of Stone Shirt and found the magical bows and arrows that belonged to the maidens, and with their sharp teeth they cut the sinew on the backs of the bows and nibbled the bow strings, so that they were worthless. Togo'av hid himself under a rock near by. When dawn came into the sky, Tumpwinai'ro- gwinump, the Stone Shirt man, arose and walked out of his tent, exulting HALVED AND PINNED TRAPDOOR FRAME OF ZUftl KIVA. WOODEN PIVOT HINGES OF A ZUNI DOOR. THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 311 in his strength and security, and sat down upon the rock under which Togo'av was hiding ; and he, seeing his opportunity, sank his fangs into the flesh of the hero. Stone Shirt sprang high into the air and called to his daughters that they were betrayed and that the enemy was near ; and they seized their magical bows and their quivers filled with magical arrows and hurried to his defense. At the same time, all the nations who were surrounding the camp rushed down to battle. But the beauti- ful maidens, finding their weapons were destroyed, waved back their enemies, as if they would parley ; and standing for a few moments over the body of their slain father, sang the death song and danced the death dance, whirling in giddy circles about the dead hero and wailing with despair, until they sank down and expired. The conquerors buried the maidens by the shores of the lake ; but Tumpwinai'rogwinump was left to rot and his bones to bleach on the sands, as he had left Sikor'. There is this proverb among the Utes : "Do not murmur when you suffer in doing what the spirits have commanded, for a cup of water is provided ' ' j and another : i i What matters it who kills the game, when we can all eat of it?" It is long after midnight when the performance is ended. The story itself is interesting, though I had heard it many times before ; but never, perhaps, under circumstances more effective. Stretched beneath tall, somber pines ; a great camp fire ; by the fire, men, old, wrinkled, and ugly ; deformed, blear-eyed, wry- faced women ; lithe, stately young men ; pretty but simpering maidens, naked children, all intently listen- ing, or laughing and talking by turns, their strange faces and dusky forms lit up with the glare of the pine-knot fire. All the circumstances conspired to make it a scene strange and weird. One old man, the sorcerer or medicine man of the tribe, peculiarly impressed me. Now and then he would interrupt the play for the purpose of correcting the speakers or impressing the moral of the story with a strange dignity and impressiveness that seemed to pass to the very border of the ludicrous ; yet at no time did it make me smile. The story is finished, but there is yet time for an hour or two of sleep. I take Chuar'ruumpeak to one side for a talk. The three men who left us in the canyon last year found their way up the lateral gorge, by which 312 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. they went into the Shi'wits Mountains, lying west of us, where they met with the Indians and camped with them one or two nights and were finally killed. I am anxious to learn the circumstances, and as the people of the tribe who committed the deed live but a little way from these people and are intimate with them, I ask Chuar'ruumpeak to make inquiry for me. Then we go to bed. September 17. — Early this morning the Indians come up to our camp. A POULTRY HOUSE OF SICHUMOVI RESEMBLING AN OVEN. They have concluded to send out a young man after the Shi'vwits. The runner fixes his moccasins, puts some food in a sack and water in a little wickerwork jug, straps them on his back, and starts at a good round pace. We have concluded to go down the canyon, hoping to meet the Shi'- vwits on our return. Soon we are ready to start, leaving the camp and pack animals in charge of the two Indians who came with us. As we move out our new guide comes up, a blear-eyed, weazen-faced, quiet old man, with his bow and arrows in one hand and a small cane in the other. These Indians all carry canes with a crooked handle, they say to kill rattlesnakes and to pull rabbits from their holes. The valley is high up in the mountain and we descend from it by a rocky, precipitous trail, down, down, down for two long, weary hours, leading our ponies and stumbling over the rocks. At last we are at the foot of the mountain, standing on a little knoll, from which we can look into a canyon below. THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 313 Into this we descend, and then we follow it for miles, clambering down and still down. Often we cross beds of lava, that have been poured into the canyon by lateral channels, and these angular fragments of basalt make the way very rough for the animals. About two o'clock the guide halts us with his wand, and, springing over the rocks, he is lost in a gulch. In a few minutes he returns, and tells us there is a little water below in a pocket. It is vile and our ponies refuse to drink it. We pass on, still descending. A mile or two from the water basin we come to a precipice more than 1,000 feet to the bottom. There is a canyon running at a greater depth and at right angles to this, into which this enters by the precipice ; and this second canyon is a lateral one to the greater one, in the bottom of which we are to find the river. Searching about, we find a way by which we can descend along the shelves and steps and piles of broken rocks. We start, leading our ponies ; a wall upon our left j unknown depths on our right. At places our way is along shelves so narrow or so sloping that I ache with fear lest a pony should make a misstep and knock a man over the cliffs with him. Now and then we start the loose rocks under our feet, and over the cliffs they go, thundering down, down, the echoes rolling through distant canyons. At last we pass along a level shelf for some distance, then we turn to the right and zigzag down a steep slope to the bottom. Now we pass along this lower canyon for two or three miles, to where it terminates in the Grand Canyon, as the other ended in this, only the river is 1, 800 feet below us, and it seems at this distance to be but a creek. Our withered guide, the human pickle, seats himself on a rock and seems wonderfully amused at our discomfiture, for we can see no way by which to descend to the river. After some minutes he quietly rises and, beckoning us to follow, points out a narrow sloping shelf on the right, and this is to be our way. It leads along the cliff for half a mile to a wider bench beyond, which, he says, is broken down on the other side in a great slide, and there we can get to the river. So we start out on the shelf ; it is so steep we can hardly stand on it, and to fall or slip is to go — don't look to see ! It is soon manifest that we cannot get the ponies along the ledge. The storms have washed it down since our guide was here last, years ago. One of the ponies has gone so far that we cannot turn him back until we 314 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. find a wider place, but at last we get him off. With part of the men, I take the horses back to the place where there are a few bushes growing and turn them loose ; in the meantime the other men are looking for some way by which we can get down to the river. When I return, one, Captain Bishop, has found a way and gone down. We pack bread, coffee, sugar, and two or three blankets among us, and set out. It is now nearly dark, and we cannot find the way by which the captain THE HUMAN PICKLE. went, and an hour is spent in fruitless search. Two of the men go away around an amphitheater, more than a fourth of a mile, and start down a broken chasm that faces us who are behind. These walls, that are verti- cal, or nearly so, are often cut by chasms, where the showers run down, THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 315 and the top of these chasms will be back a distance from the face of the wall, and the bed of the chasm will slope down, with here and there a fall. At other places huge rocks have fallen and block the way. Down such a one the two men start. There is a curious plant growing out from the crevices of the rock. A dozen stems will start from one root and grow to the length of eight or ten feet and not throw out a branch or twig, but these stems are thickly covered with leaves. Now and then the two men come to a bunch of dead stems and make a fire to mark for us their way and progress. In the meantime we find such a gulch and start down, but soon come to the " jumping-off place," where we can throw a stone and faintly hear it strike, away below. We fear that we shall have to stay here, clinging to the rocks until daylight. Our little Indian gathers a few dry stems, ties them into a bundle, lights one end, and holds it up. The others do the same, and with these torches we find a way out of trouble. Helping each other, holding torches for each other, one clinging to another's hand until we can get footing, then supporting the other on his shoulders, thus we make our passage into the depths of the canyon. And now Captain Bishop has kindled a huge fire of driftwood on the bank of the river. This and the fires in the gulch opposite and our own flaming torches light up little patches that make more manifest the awful darkness below. Still, on we go for an hour or two, and at last we see Captain Bishop coming up the gulch with a huge torchlight oh his shoulders. He looks like a fiend, waving brands and lighting the fires of hell, and the men in the opposite gulch are imps, lighting delusive fires in inaccessible crevices, over yawning chasms ; our own little Indian is surely the king of wizards, so I think, as I stop for a few moments on a rock to rest. At last we meet Captain Bishop, with his flaming torch, and as he has learned the way he soon pilots us to the side of the great Colorado. We are athirst and hungry, almost to star- vation. Here we lie down on the rocks and drink, just a mouthful or so, as we dare ; then we make a cup of coffee, and spreading our blankets on a sand beach the roaring Colorado lulls us to sleep. September 18. — We are in the Grand Canyon, by the side of the Colo- rado, more than 6,000 feet below our camp on the mountain side, which is 18 miles away ; but the miles of horizontal distance represent but 316 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. a small part of the day's labor before us. It is the mile of altitude we must gain that makes it a Herculean task. We are up early ; a little bread and coffee, and we look about us. Our conclusion is that we can make this a depot of supplies, should it be necessary; that we can pack our rations to the point where we left our animals last night, and that we can employ Indians to bring them down to the water's edge. On a broad shelf we find the ruins of an old stone house, the walls of which are broken down, and we can see where the ancient people who lived here — a race more highly civilized than the present — had made a garden and used a great spring that comes out of the rocks for irrigation. On some rocks near by we discover some curious etchings. Still searching about, we find an obscure trail up the canyon wall, marked here and there by steps which have been built in the loose rock, elsewhere hewn stairways, and we find a much easier way to go up than that by which we came down in the darkness last night. Coming to the top of the wall, we catch our horses and start. Up the canyon our jaded ponies toil and we reach the second cliff ; up this we go, by easy stages, leading the animals. Now we reach the offensive water pocket ; our ponies have had no water for thirty hours, and are eager even for this foul fluid. We carefully strain a kettleful for ourselves, then divide what is left between them — two or three gallons for each ; but it does not satisfy them, and they rage around, refusing to eat the scanty grass. We boil our kettle of water, and skim it ; straining, boiling, and skim- ming make it a little better, for it was full of loathsome, wriggling larvae, with huge black heads. But plenty of coffee takes away the bad smell, and so modifies the taste that most of us can drink, though our little Indian seems to prefer the original mixture. We reach camp about sunset, and are glad to rest. September 19. — We are tired and sore, and must rest a day with our Indian neighbors. During the inclement season they live in shelters made of boughs or the bark of the cedar, which they strip off in long shreds. In this climate, most of the year is dry and warm, and during such time they do not care for shelter. Clearing a small, circular space of ground, they bank it around with brush and sand, and wallow in it during the day and huddle together in a heap at night- 318 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. A ZUNI WINDOW GLAZED WITH SELENITE. and children ; buckskin, rags, and sand. They wear very little clothing, not needing much in this lovely climate. Altogether, these Indians are more nearly in their primitive condition than any others on the continent with whom I am acquainted. They have never received anything • v 7 5 rr % from the government and are §§§ too poor to tempt the trader, J|f and their country is so nearly f.- ; inaccessible that the white man if* never visits them. The sunny B mountain side is covered with fi wild fruits, nuts, and native ' grains, upon which they subsist. The oose, the fruit of the yucca, or Spanish bayonet, is rich, and not unlike the pawpaw of the valley of the Ohio. They eat it raw and also roast it in the ashes. They gather the fruits of a cactus plant, which are rich and luscious, and eat them as grapes or express the juice from them, making the dry pulp into cakes and saving them for winter and drinking the wine about their camp fires until the midnight is merry with their revelries. They gather the seeds of many plants, as sunflowers, golden-rod, and grasses. For this purpose they have large conical baskets, which hold two or more bushels. The women carry them on their backs, suspended from their foreheads by broad straps, and with a smaller one in the left hand and a willow -woven fan in the right they walk among the grasses and sweep the seed into the smaller basket, which is emptied now and then into the larger, until it is full of seeds and chaff; then they winnow out the chaff and roast the seeds. They roast these curiously ; they put seeds and a quantity of red-hot coals into a willow tray and, by rapidly and dexterously shaking and tossing them, keep the coals aglow and the seeds and tray from burning. So skilled are the crones in this work they roll the seeds to one side of the tray as they are roasted and the coals to the other as if by magic. Then they grind the seeds into a fine flour and make it into cakes and mush. It is a merry sight, sometimes, to see the women grinding at the THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 319 mill. For a mill, they use a large flat rock, lying on the ground, and another small cylindrical one in their hands. They sit prone on the ground, hold the large flat rock between the feet and legs, then fill their laps with seeds, making a hopper to the mill with their dusky legs, and grind by pushing the seeds across the larger rock, where they drop into a tray. I have seen a group of women grinding together, keeping time to a chant, or gossiping and chatting, while the younger lassies would jest and chatter and make the pine woods merry with their laughter. Mothers carry their babes curiously in baskets. They make a wicker board by plaiting willows and sew a buckskin cloth to either edge, and this is fulled in the middle so as to form a sack closed at the bottom. At the top they make a wicker shade, like "my grandmother's sunbonnet," and wrapping the little one in a wild-cat robe, place it in the basket, and this they carry on their backs, strapped over the forehead, and the little brown midgets are ever peering over their mothers' shoulders. In camp, they stand the basket against the trunk of a tree or hang it to a limb. There is little game in the country, yet they get a mountain sheep now and then or a deer, with their arrows, for they are not yet supplied with guns. They get many rabbits, sometimes with arrows, sometimes with nets. They make a net of twine, made of the fibers of a native flax. Sometimes this is made a hundred yards in length, and is placed in a half-circular po- sition, with wings of sage brush. Then they have a circle hunt, and drive great numbers of rabbits into the snare, where they are shot with arrows. Most of their bows are made of cedar, but the best are made of the horns of mountain sheep. These are soaked in water until quite soft, cut into long thin strips, and glued together ; they are then quite elastic. During the autumn, grasshoppers are very abundant. When cold weather sets in, these insects are numbed and can be gathered by the bushel. At such a time, they dig a hole in the sand, heat stones in a fire near by, put some hot stones in the bottom of the hole, put on a layer of grasshoppers, then a layer of hot stones, and continue this, until they put bushels on to roast. There they are A ZUNI CHAIR. 320 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. left until cool, when they are taken out, thoroughly dried, and ground into meal. Grasshopper gruel or grasshopper cake is a great treat. Their lore consists of a mass of traditions, or mythology. It is very difficult to induce them to tell it to white men ; but the old Spanish priests, in the days of the conquest of New Mexico, spread among the Indians of this country many Bible stories, which the Indians are usually willing to tell. It is not always easy to recognize them; the Indian mind is a strange receptacle for such stories and they are apt to sprout new limbs. Maybe much of their added quaint- ness is due to the way in which they were told by the " fathers." But in a confidential way, while alone, or when admitted to their camp fire on an ancient circular doorway or a winter night, one may hear the " stone close" in kin-tiel. stories of their mythology. I believe that the greatest mark of friendship or confidence that an Indian can give is to tell you his religion. After one has so talked with me I should ever trust him ; and I feel on very good terms with these Indians since our experience of the other night. A knowledge of the watering places and of the trails and passes is considered of great importance and is necessary to give standing to a chief. This evening, the Shi'vwits, for whom we have sent, come in, and after supper we hold a long council. A blazing fire is built, and around this we sit — the Indians living here, the Shi'vwits, Jacob Hamblin, and myself. This man, Hamblin, speaks their language well and has a great influ ence over all the Indians in the region round about. He is a silent, re- served man, and when he speaks it is in a slow, quiet way that inspires great awe. His talk is so low that they must listen attentively to hear, and they sit around him in deathlike silence. When he finishes a A GAMING RING. THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 321 measured sentence the chief repeats it and they all give a solemn grunt. But, first, I fill my pipe, light it, and take a few whiffs, then pass it to Hamblin ; he smokes, and gives it to the man next, and so it goes around. When it has passed the chief, he takes out his own pipe, fills and lights it, and passes it around after mine. I can smoke my own pipe in turn, but when the Indian pipe comes around, I am nonplused. It has a large stem, which has at some time been broken, and now there is a buckskin rag wound around it and tied with sinew, so that the end of the stem is a huge mouthful, exceedingly repulsive. To gain time, I refill it, then engage in very earnest conversation, and, all unawares, I pass it to my neighbor unlighted. I tell the Indians that I wish to spend some months in their country during the coming year and that I would like them to treat me as a friend. I do not wish to trade ; do not want their lands. Heretofore I have found it very difficult to make the natives understand my object, but the gravity of the Mormon missionary helps me much. I tell them that all the great and good white men are anxious to know very many things, that they spend much time in learning, and that the greatest man is he who knows the most ; that the white men want to know all about the mountains and the valleys, the rivers and the canyons, the beasts and birds and snakes. Then I tell them of many Indian tribes, and where they live ; of the European nations ; of the Chinese, of Africans, and all the strange things about them that come to my mind. I tell them of the ocean, of great rivers and high mountains, of strange beasts and birds. At last I tell them I wish to learn about their canyons and mountains, and about themselves, to tell other men at home ; and that I want to take pictures of everything and show them to my friends. All this occupies much time, and the matter and manner make a deep impression. Then their chief replies : " Your talk is good, and we believe what you say. We believe in Jacob, and look upon you as a father. When you are hungry, you may have our game. You may gather our sweet fruits. We will give you food when you come to our land. We will show you the springs and you may drink ; the water is good. We will be friends and when you come we will be glad. We will tell the Indians who live on the other side of the great river that we have seen Ka'purats, and that he is the Indians' friend. We will tell them he is Jacob's 322 CANYOJSS OF THE COLORADO. friend. We are very poor. Look at our women and children 5 they are naked. We have no horses ; we climb the rocks and our feet are sore. We live among rocks and they yield little food and many thorns. When the cold moons come, our children are hungry. We have not much to give ; you must not think us mean. You are wise ; we have heard you tell strange things. We are ignorant. Last year we killed three white men. Bad men said they were our enemies. They told great lies. We thought them true. We were mad ; it made us big fools. We are very sorry. Do not think of them j it is done ; let us be friends. We are ignorant— like little children in understanding com- pared with you. When we do wrong, do not you get mad and be like children too. "When white men kill our people, we kill them. Then they kill more of us. It is not good. We hear that the white men are a great number. When they stop killing us, there will be no Indian left to INTERIOR VIEW OF A TUBAYAN K1VA. THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 323 bury the dead. We love our country ; we know not other lands. We hear that other lands are better ; we do not know. The pines sing and we are glad. Our children play in the warm sand ; we hear them sing and are glad. The seeds ripen and we have to eat and we are glad. We do not want their good lands 5 we want our rocks and the great mountains where our fathers lived. We are very poor 5 we are very ignorant 5 but we are very honest. You have horses and many things. You are very wise ; you have a good heart. We will be friends. Nothing more have I to say." Ka'purats is the name by which I am known among the Utes and Shoshones, meaning "arm off." There was much more repetition than I have given, and much emphasis. After this a few presents were given, we shook hands, and the council broke up. Mr. Hamblin fell into conversation with one of the men and held him until the others had left, and then learned more of the particulars of the death of the three men. They came upon the Indian village almost starved and exhausted with fatigue. They were supplied with food and put on their way to the settlements. Shortly after they had left, an Indian from the east side of the Colorado arrived at their village and told them about a number of miners having killed a squaw in drunken brawl, and no doubt these were the men ; no person had ever come down the canyon ; that was impossible ; they were trying to hide their guilt. In this way he worked them into a great rage. They followed, surrounded the men in ambush, and filled them full of arrows. That night I slept in peace, although these murderers of my men, and their friends, the Uinkarets, were sleeping not 500 yards away. While we were gone to the canyon, the pack train and supplies, enough to make an Indian rich beyond his wildest dreams, were all left in their charge, and were all safe ; not even a lump of sugar was pilfered by the children. September 20. — For several days we have been discussing the relative merits of several names for these mountains. The Indians call them Uinkarets, the region of pines, and we adopt the name. The great mountain we call Mount Trumbull, in honor of the senator. To-day the train starts back to the canyon water pocket, while Captain Bishop and 324 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. I climb Mount Trumbull. On our way we pass the point that was the last opening to the volcano. It seems but a few years since the last flood of fire swept the valley. Between two rough, conical hills it poured, and ran down the valley to the foot of a mountain standing almost at the lower end, then parted, and ran on either side of the mountain. This last overflow is very plainly marked ; there is soil, with trees and grass, to the very edge CAVE LAKE IN KANAB CANYON. of it, on a more ancient bed. The flood was, everywhere on its border, from 10 to 20 feet in height, terminating abruptly and looking like a wall from below. On cooling, it shattered into fragments, but these are still in place and the outlines of streams and waves can be seen. So THE RIO VIRGEN AND THE UINKARET MOUNTAINS. 325 little time has elapsed since it ran down that the elements have not weathered a soil, and there is scarcely any vegetation on it, bnt here and there a lichen is found. And yet, so long ago was it poured from the depths, that where ashes and cinders have collected in a few places, some huge cedars have grown. Near the crater the frozen waves of black basalt are rent with deep fissures, transverse to the direction of the flow. Then we ride through a cedar forest up a long ascent, until we come to cliffs of columnar basalt. Here we tie our horses and prepare for a climb among the columns. Through crevices we work, till at last we are on the mountain, a thousand acres of pine land spread out before us, gently rising to the other edge. There are two peaks on the mountain. We walk two miles to the foot of the one looking to be the highest, then a long, hard climb to its summit. What a view is before us! A vision of glory! Peaks of lava all around below us. The Vermilion Cliffs to the north, with their splendor of colors ; the Pine Valley Mountains to the northwest, clothed in mellow, perspective haze ; unnamed mountains to the southwest, towering over canyons bottomless to my peering gaze, like chasms to nadir hell ; and away beyond, the San Francisco Mountains, lifting their black heads into the heavens. We find our way down the mountain, reaching the trail made by the pack train just at dusk, and follow it through the dark until we see the camp fire — a welcome sight. Two days more, and we are at Pipe Spring ; one day, and we are at Kanab. Eight miles above the town is a canyon, on either side of which is a group of lakes. Four of these are in caves where the sun never shines. By the side of one of these I sit, at my feet the crystal waters, of which I may drink at will. ANCIENT POTTERY FROM TUSAYAN. CHAPTER XIII. OVER THE RIVER. IT IS our intention to explore a route from Kanab to the Colorado River at the mouth of the Paria, and, if successful in this under- taking, to cross the river and proceed to Tusayan, and ultimately to Santa Fe, New Mexico. We propose to build a fLatboat for the purpose of ferrying over the river, and have had the lumber necessary for that purpose hauled from St. George to Kanab. From here to the mouth of the Paria it must be packed on the backs of mules ; Captain Bishop and Mr. Graves are to take charge of this work, while with Mr. Hamblin I explore the Kaibab Plateau. September 2 If. — To-day we are ready for the start. The mules are packed and away goes our train of lumber, rations, and camping equipage. The Indian trail is at the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs. Pushing on to the east with Mr. Hamblin for a couple of hours in the early morning, we reach the mouth of a dry canyon, which comes down through the cliffs. Instead of a narrow canyon we find an open valley from one fourth to one half a mile in width. On rare occasions a stream flows down this valley, but now sand dunes stretch across it. On either side there is a wall of vertical rock of orange sandstone, and here and there at the foot of the wall are found springs that afford sweet water. We push our way far up the valley to the foot of the Gray Cliffs, and by a long detour find our way to the summit. Here again we find that wonderful scenery of naked white rocks carved into great round bosses and domes. Looking off to the north we can see vermilion and pink cliffs, crowned with forests, while below us to the south stretch the dunes and red-lands of the Vermilion Cliff region, and far away we can see the opposite wall of the Grand Canyon. In the middle of the 328 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. afternoon we descend into the canyon valley and hurriedly ride down to the month of the canyon, then follow the trail of the pack train, for we are to camp with the party to-night. We find it at the Navajo Well. As we approach in the darkness the camp fire is a cheerful sight. The Navajo Well is a pool in the sand, the sands themselves lying in a basin, with naked, smooth rocks all about on which the rains are caught and by which the sand in the basin is filled with water, and by digging into the sand this sweet water is found. September 25. — At sunrise Mr. Hamblin and I part from the train once more, taking with us Chuar, a chief of the Kaibabits, for a trip to the south, for one more view of the Grand Canyon from the summit of the Kaibab Plateau. All day long our way is over red hills, with a bold line of cliffs on our left. A little after noon we reach a great spring, and here we are to camp for the night, for the region beyond us is unknown and we wish to enter it with a good day before us. The Indian goes out to hunt a rabbit for supper, and Hamblin and I climb the cliffs. From an elevation of 1,800 feet above the spring we watch the sun go down and see the sheen on the Vermilion Cliffs and red-lands slowly fade into the gloaming 5 then we descend to supper. September 26. — Early in the morning we pass up a beautiful valley to the south and turn westward onto a great promontory, from the summit of which the Grand Canyon is in view. Its deep gorge can be seen to the westward for 50 or 60 miles, and to the southeastward we look off into the stupendous chasm, with its marvelous forms and colors. Twenty-one years later I read over the notes of that day's experience and the picture of the Grand Canyon from this point is once more before me. I did not know when writing the notes that this was the grandest view that can be obtained of the region from Fremont's Peak to the Gulf of California, but I did realize that the scene before me was awful, sublime, and glorious — awful in profound depths, sublime in massive and strange forms, and glorious in colors. Years later I visited the same spot with my friend Thomas Moran. From this world of wonder he selected a section which was the most interesting to him and painted it. That painting, known as "The Chasm of the Colorado," is in a hall in the Senate wing of the Capitol of the United States. If any TTJSAYAN FETICHES AND IMPLEMENTS. TUSAYAN BASKETRY. OVER THE RIVER. 331 one will look upon that picture, and then realize that it was but a small part of the landscape before us on this memorable 26th day of Sep- tember, he will understand why I suppress my notes descriptive of the scene. The landscape is too vast, too complex, too grand for verbal description. We sleep another night by the spring on the summit of the Kaibab, and next day we go around to Point Sublime and then push on to the very verge of the Kaibab, where we can overlook the canyon at the mouth of the Little Colorado. The day is a repetition of the glorious day before, and at night we sleep again at the same spring. In the morning we turn to the northeast and descend from Kaibab to the back of Marble Canyon and cross it at the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs, and find our packers camped at Jacob's Pool, where a spring bursts from the cliff at the summit of a great hill of talus. In the camp we find a score or more of Indians, who have joined us here by previous appointment, as we need their services in crossing the river. On the last day of September we follow the Vermilion Cliffs around to the mouth of the Paria. Here the cliffs present a wall of about 2,000 feet in height, — above, orange and vermilion, but below, chocolate, purple, and gray in alternating bands of rainbow brightness. The cliffs are cut with deep side canyons, and the rainbow hills below are desti- tute of vegetation. At night we camp on the bank of the Colorado Eiver, on the same spot where our boat-party had camped the year before. Leaving the party in charge of Mr. Graves and Mr. Bishop, while they are building a ferryboat, I take some Indians to explore the canyon of the Paria. We find steep walls on either side, but a rather broad, flat plain below, through which the muddy river winds its way over quicksands. This stream we have to cross from time to time, and we find the quicksands treacherous and our horses floundering in the trembling masses. These broad canyons, or canyon valleys, are carved by the streams in obedience to an interesting law of corrasion. Where the decliv- ity of the stream is great the river corrades, or cuts its bottom deeper and still deeper, ever forming narrow clefts, but when the stream has cut its channel down until the declivity is greatly reduced, it can no longer carry the load of sand with which it is fed, but drops DANCE PARAPHERNALIA FROM TUSAYAN. OVER THE RIVER. 833 a part of it on the way. Wherever it drops it in this manner a sand bank is formed. Now the effect of this sand bar is to tnrn the course of the river against the wall or bank, and as it unloads in one place it cuts in another below and loads itself again ; so it unloads itself and forms bars, and loads itself with more material to form bars, and the process of vertical cutting is transformed into a process of lateral cutting. The rate of cutting is greatly increased thereby, but the wear is on the sides and not on the bottom. So long as the declivity of the stream is great, the greater the load of sand carried the greater the rate of vertical cut- ting ; but when the declivity is reduced, so that part of the load is thrown down, vertical cutting is changed to lateral and the rate of cor- rasion multiplied thereby. Now this broad valley canyon, or "box canyon," as such channels are usually called in the country, has been formed by the stream itself, cutting its channel at first vertically and afterwards laterally, and so a great flood -plain is formed. For a day we ride up the Paria, and next day return. The party in camp have made good progress. The boat is finished and a part of the camp freight has been transported across the river. The next day the remainder is ferried over and the animals are led across, swimming behind the ferryboat in pairs. Here a bold bluff more than 1,200 feet in height has to be climbed, and the day is spent in getting to its summit. We make a dry camp, that is, without water, except that which has been carried in canteens by the Indians. October £. — All day long we pass by the foot of the Echo Cliffs, which are in fact the continuation of the Yermilion Cliffs. It is still a land- scape of rocks, with cliffs and pinnacles and towers and buttes on the left, and deep chasms running down into the Marble Canyon on the right. At night we camp at a water pocket, a pool in a great limestone rock. We still go south for another half day to a cedar ridge ; here we turn westward, climbing the cliffs, which we find to be not the edge of an escarpment with a plateau above, but a long narrow ridge which descends on the eastern side to a level only 500 or 600 feet above the trail left below. On the eastern side of the cliff a great homogeneous sandstone stretches, declining rapidly, and on its sides are carved innumerable basins, which are now filled with pure water, and we call this the Thousand Wells. We have a long afternoon's 334 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. ride over sand dunes, slowly toiling from mile to mile. We can see a ledge of rocks in the distance, and the Indian with us assures us that we shall find water there. At night we come to the cliff, and under it, in a great cave, we find a lakelet. Sweeter, cooler water never blessed the desert. While at Jacob's Pool, several days before, I sent a runner for- ward into this region with instructions to hunt us up some of THE THOUSAND WELLS. the natives and bring them to this pool. When we arrive we are dis- appointed in not finding them on hand, but a little later half a dozen men come in with the Indian messenger. They are surly fellows and seem to be displeased at our coming. Before midnight they leave. Under the circumstances I do not feel that it is safe to linger long at this spot ; so I do not lie down to rest, but walk the camp among the guards and see that everything is in readiness to move. About two o'clock I set a couple of men to prepare a hasty lunch, call up all hands, and we saddle, pack, eat our lunch, and start off to the southwest to reach OVER THE RIVER. 335 the Moenkopi, where there is a little rancheria of Indians, a farming settlement belonging to the Oraibis, so we are told. We set out at a rapid rate, and when daylight comes we are in sight of the canyon of the Moenkopi, into which we soon descend ; but the rancheria has been abandoned. Up the Moenkopi we pass several miles, in a beauti - ful canyon valley, until we find a pool in a nook of a cliff, where we feel that we can defend ourselves with certainty, and here we camp for the night. The next day we go on to Oraibi, one of the pueblos of the Province of Tusayan. At Tusayan we stop for two weeks and visit the seven pueblos on the cliffs. Oraibi is first reached, then Shumopavi, Shupaulovi, and Mashongnavi, and finally Walpi, Sichumovi, and Hano. In a street of Oraibi our little party is gathered. Soon a council is called by the cacique, or chief, and we are assigned to a suite of six or TERRACED HOUSES IN ORAIBI, SHOWING ENTRANCE TO KIVA IN FOREGROUND. 336 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. eight rooms for our quarters. We purchase corn of some of the people, and after feeding our animals they are intrusted to two Indian boys, who, under the direction of the cacique, take them to a distant mesa to herd. This is my first view of an inhabited pueblo, though I have seen many ruins from time to time. At first I am a little disappointed in the people. They seem scarcely superior to the Shoshones and Utes, tribes with whom I am so well acquainted. Their dress is less picturesque, and the men have an ugly fashion of banging their hair in front so that it comes down to their eyes and conceals their foreheads. But the women are more neatly dressed and arrange their hair in picturesque coils. Oraibi is a town of several hundred inhabitants. It stands on a mesa or little plateau 200 or 300 feet above the surrounding plain. The mesa itself has a rather diversified surface. The streets of the town are quite irregular, and in a general way run from north to south. The houses are constructed to face the east. They are of stone laid in mortar, and are usually three or four stories high. The second story stands back upon the first, leaving a terrace over one tier of rooms. The third is set back of the second, and the fourth back of the third ; so that their houses are terraced to face the east. These terraces on the top are all flat, and the people usually ascend to the first terrace by a ladder and then by another into the lower rooms. In like manner, ladders or rude stairways are used to reach the upper stories. The climate is very warm and the people live on the tops of their houses. It seems strange to see little naked children climbing the ladders and running over the house tops like herds of monkeys. After we have looked about the town and been gazed upon by the wondering eyes of the men, women, and children, we are at last called to supper. In a large central room we gather and the food is placed before us. A stew of goat's flesh is served in earthen bowls, and each one of us is furnished with a little earthen ladle. The bread is a great novelty to me. It is made of corn meal in sheets as thin and large as foolscap paper. In the corner of the house is a little oven, the top of which is a great flat stone, and the good housewife bakes her bread in this manner : The corn meal is mixed to the consistency of a rather thick gruel, and the woman dips her hand into the mixture and plasters the hot OYER THE RIVER. 337 stone with a thin coating of the meal paste. In a minute or two it forms into a thin paperlike cake, and she takes it np by the edge, folds it once, and places it on a basket tray ; then another and another sheet of paper- bread is made in like manner and piled on the tray. I notice that the paste stands in a number of different bowls and that she takes from one bowl and then another in order, and I soon see the effect of this. The corn before being ground is assorted by colors, white, yellow, red, blue, and black, and the sheets of bread, when made, are of the same variety of colors, white, yellow, red, blue, and black. This bread, held on very beautiful trays, is itself a work of art. They call it THE HOUSE OF TAETI, CHIEF OF THE COUNCIL IN THE TOWN OF ORAIBI. piM. After we have partaken of goat stew and bread a course of dumplings, melons, and peaches is served, and this finishes the feast. What seem to be dumplings are composed of a kind of hash of bread and meat, tied up in little balls with cornhusks and served boiling hot. They are eaten with much gusto by the party and highly praised. Some days after we learned how they are made ; they are prepared of goat's flesh, bread, and turnips, and kneaded by mastication. As we prefer to masticate our own food, this dainty dish is never again a favorite. In the evening the people celebrate our advent by a dance, such it seemed to us, but probably it was one of their regular ceremonies. 338 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. After dark a pretty little fire is built in the chimney corner and I spend the evening in rehearsing to a group of the leading men the story of my travels in the canyon country. Of our journey down the canyon in boats they have already heard, and they listen with great interest to what I say. My talk with them is in the Mexican patois, which several of them understand, and all that I say is interpreted. The next morning we are up at daybreak. Soon we hear loud shouts coming from the top of the house. The cacique is calling his people. Then all the people, men, women, and children, come out on the tops of their houses. Just before sunrise they sprinkle water and meal from beautiful grails ; then they all stand with bare heads to watch the rising of the sun. When his full orb is seen, once more they sprinkle the sacred water and the sacred meal over the tops of the houses. Then the cacique in a loud voice directs the labor of the day. So his talk is explained to us. Some must gather corn, others must go for wood, water must be brought from the distant wells, and the animals of the strangers must be cared for. Now the house tops present a lively scene. Bowls of water are brought ; from them the men fill their mouths and with dexterity blow water over their hands in spray and wash their faces and lave their long shining heads of hair ; and the women dress one another's locks. With bowls of water they make suds of the yucca plant, and wash and comb and deftly roll their hair, the elder women in great coils at the back of the head, the younger women in flat coils on their cheeks. And so the days are passed and the weeks go by, and we study the language of the people and record many hundreds of their words and observe their habits and customs and gain some knowledge of their mythology, but above all do we become interested in their religious ceremonies. One afternoon they take me from Oraibi to Shupaulovi to witness a great religious ceremony. It is the invocation to the gods for rain. We arrive about sundown, and are taken into a large subterranean chamber, into which we descend by a ladder. Soon about a dozen Shamans are gathered with us, and the ceremony continues from sunset to sunrise. It is a series of formal invocations, incantations, and sacrifices, especially of holy meal and holy water. The leader of the Shamans is a great burly bald-headed Indian, which is a remarkable OYER THE RIVER. 339 PRAYING FOR RAIN. sight, for I have never seen one before. Whatever he says or does is repeated by three others in turn. The paraphernalia of their worship is very interesting. At one end of the chamber is a series of tablets of wood covered with quaint pictures of animals and of corn, and overhead are conventional black clouds from which yellow lightnings are pro- jected, while drops of rain fall on the corn below. Wooden birds, set on pedestals and decorated with plumes, are arranged in various ways. Ears of corn, vases of holy water, and trays of meal make up a part of the paraphernalia of worship. I try to record some of the prayers, but am not very successful, as it is difficult to hold my interpreter to the work. But one of these prayers is something like this : "Muingwa pash lolomai, Master of the Clouds, we eat no stolen bread; our young men ride not the stolen ass ; our food is not stolen from 340 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. the gardens of our neighbors. Muingwa pash lolomai, we beseech of thee to dip your great sprinkler, made of the feathers of the birds of the heavens, into the lakes of the skies and sprinkle us with sweet rains, that the ground may be prepared in the winter for the corn that grows in the summer." At one time in the night three women were brought into the Mva. These women had a cincture of cotton about their loins, but were other- wise nude. One was very old, another of middle age, and the third quite young, perhaps fourteen or fifteen years old. As they stood in a corner of the Mva their faces and bodies were painted by the bald- headed priest. For this purpose he filled his mouth with water and pig- ment and dexterously blew a fine spray over the faces, necks, shoulders, and breasts of the women. Then with his finger as a brush he decorated them over this ground- work, which was of yellow, with many figures in various col- ors. From that time to daylight the three women remained in the Mva and took part in the ceremony as choristers and danc- ing performers. At sunrise we are filed out of the Mva, and a curious sight is presented to our view. Shupaulovi is built in terraces about a cen- tral court, or plaza, and in the plaza about fifty men are drawn up in a line facing us. These men are naked except that they wear masks, strange and grotesque, and great flaring headdresses in many colors. MASHONGNAVI. TUSAYAN TRAYS. 342 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. Our party from the Mva stand before this line of men, and the bald- headed priest harangues them in words I cannot understand. Then across the other end of the plaza a line of women is formed, facing the line of men, and at a signal from the old Shaman the drums and the whistles on the terraces, with a great chorus of singers, set up a tumul- tuous noise, and with slow shuffling steps the line of men and the line of women move toward each other in a curious waving dance. When the lines approach so as to be not more than 10 or 12 feet apart, our party still being between them, they all change so as to dance backward to their original positions. This is repeated until the dancers have passed over the plaza four times. Then there is a wild confusion of dances, the order of which I cannot understand, — if indeed there is any system, except that the men and women dance apart. Soon this is over, and the women all file down the ladder into the Mva and the men strip off their masks and arrange themselves about the plaza, every one according to his own wish, but as if in sharp expectancy ; then the women return up the ladder from the Mva and climb to the tops of the houses and stand on the brink of the nearer terrace. Now the music commences once more, and the old woman who was painted in the Mva during the night throws something, I cannot tell what, into the midst of the plaza. With a shout and a scream, every man jumps for it ; one seizes it, another takes it away from him, and then an- other secures it; and with shouts and screams they wrestle and tussle for the charm which the old woman has thrown to them. After a while some one gets permanent possession of the charm and the music ceases. Then another is thrown into the midst. So these contests continue at intervals until high noon. In the evening we return to Oraibi. And now for two days we employ our time in making a collection of the arts of the people of this town. First, we display to them our stock of goods, composed of knives, needles, awls, scissors, paints, dyestuffs, leather, and various fabrics in gay colors. Then we go around among the people and select the articles of pottery, stone implements, instruments and utensils made of bone, horn, shell, articles of clothing and ornament, baskets, trays, and many other things, and tell the people to bring them the next day to our rooms. A little after sunrise they come in, and we have a busy day of TUSAYAN MASKETTJiS. 344 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. barter. When articles are brought in such as I want, I lay them aside. Then if possible I discover the fancy of the one who brings them, and I put by the articles the goods which I am willing to give in exchange for them. Having thus made an offer, I never deviate from it, but leave it to the option of the other party to take either his own articles or mine lying beside them. The barter is carried on with a hearty good will ; the people jest and laugh with us and with one another ; all are pleased, and there is nothing to mar this day of pleasure. In the afternoon and evening I make an inventory of our purchases, and the next day is spent in packing them for shipment. Some of the things are heavy, and I engage some Indians to help transport the cargo to Fort Wingate, where we can get army transportation. October 24- — To-day we leave Oraibi. We are ready to start in the early morning. The whole town comes to bid us good-by. Before we start they perform some strange ceremony which I cannot understand, but, with invocations to some deity, they sprinkle us, our animals, and our goods with water and with meal. Then there is a time of hand- shaking and hugging. " Good-by ; good-by; good-by!" At last we SICHUMOVI AND HANO. OVER THE RIVER. 345 start. Our way is to Walpi, by a heavy trail over a sand plain, among the dunes. We arrive a little after noon. Walpi, Sichuruovi, and Hano are three little towns on one butte, with but little space between them ; the stretch from town to town is hardly large enough for a game of ball. The top of the butte is of naked rock, and it rises from 300 to 400 feet above the sand plains below by a precipitous cliff on every side. To reach it from below, it must be climbed by niches and stairways in the rock. It is a good site for defense. At the foot of the cliff and on some terraces the people have built corrals of stone for their asses. All the water used in these three towns is derived from a well nearly a mile away — a deep pit sunk in the sand, over the site of a dune-buried brook. When we arrive the men of Walpi carry our goods, camp equipage, and saddles up the stairway and deposit them in a little court. Then they assign us eight or ten rooms for our quarters. Our animals are once more consigned to the care of Indian herders, and after they are fed they are sent away to a distance of some miles. There is no tree or shrub growing near the Walpi mesa. It is miles away to where the stunted cedars are found, and the people bring curious little loads of wood on the backs of their donkeys, it being a day's work to bring such a cargo. The people have anticipated our coming, and the wood for our use is piled in the chimney corners. After supper the hours till mid- night are passed in rather formal talk. Walpi seems to be a town of about 150 inhabitants, Sichumovi of less than 100, and Piano of not more than 75. Hano, or u Tewa" as it is sometimes called, has been built lately ; that is, it cannot be more than 100 or 200 years old. The other towns are very old ; their foundation dates back many centuries — so we gather from this talk. The people of Hano also speak a radically distinct language, belonging to another stock of tribes. They formerly lived on the Eio Grande, but during some war they were driven away and were permitted to build their home here. Two days are spent in trading with the people, and we pride ourselves on having made a good ethnologic collection. We are especially inter- ested in seeing the men and women spin and weave. In their courtyards they have deep chambers excavated in the rocks. These chambers, 346 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. which are called kivas, are entered by descending ladders. They are about 18 by 24 feet in size. The Jciva is the place of worship, where all their ceremonies are performed, where their cult societies meet to pray for rain and to prepare medicines and charms against fancied and real ailments and to protect themselves by sorcery from the dangers WALPI. A VILLAGE OP TUSAYAN. of witchcraft. The Mvas are also places for general rendezvous, and at night the men and women bring their work and chat and laugh, and in their rude way make the time merry. Many of the tribes of North America have their cult societies, or " medicine orders," as they are sometimes called, but this institution has been nowhere developed more thoroughly than among the pueblo Indians of this region. I am in- formed that there are a great number in Tusayan, that a part of their ceremonies are secret and another part public, and that the times of ceremony are also times for feasting and athletic sports. Here at Walpi the great snake dance is performed. For several days OVER THE RIVER. 347 before this festival is held the people with great diligence gather snakes from the rocks and sands of the region round about and bring them to the Jciva of one of their clans in great numbers, by scores and hun- dreds. Most of these snakes are quite harmless, but rattlesnakes abound, and they are also caught, for they play the most important r61e in the great snake dance. The medicine men, or priest doctors, are very deft in the management of rattlesnakes. When they bring them to the Jciva they herd all the snakes in a great mass of writhing, hissing, rattling serpents. For this purpose they have little wands, to the end of each one of which a bunch of feathers is affixed. If a snake attempts to leave its allotted place in the Jciva the medicine man brushes it or tickles it with the feather-armed wand, and the snake turns again to commingle with its fellows. After many strange and rather wearisome ceremonies, with dancing and invocations and ululations, the men of the order pre- pare for the great performance with the snakes. Clothed only in loincloth, each one seizes a snake, and a rattlesnake is preferred if there are enough of them for all. It is managed in this way : The snake is teased with the feather wand and his attention occupied by one man, while another, standing near, at a favorable moment seizes the snake just back of the head. Then he puts the snake in his mouth, holding it across, so that the head protrudes on one side and the body on the other, which coils about his hand and arm. A few inches of the head and neck are free, and with this free portion the snake struggles, squirming in the air ; but the attention of the snake is constantly occu- pied by the attendant who carries the wand. Then the men of the priest order carrying the snakes in their mouths arrange themselves in a line in the court and move in a procession several times about the court, and then engage in a dance. After the ceremony all of the snakes are carried to the plain and given their freedom. This snake dance was not witnessed at the time of the first visit, but an account of it was then obtained, such as given above. It has since been witnessed by myself and by others, and carefully prepared accounts of the ceremonies have been published by different persons. At last our work at Walpi is done, on October 27, and we arrange to leave on the morrow. TUSAYAN BASKETRY. TUSAYAN BASKETRY. trm-M If j;-4 Wm -A 'y-M r m mm mmwm m'm ^--mm m^"mm 1/' 1 f'rt'fil'rf.,,, Wm mm m 4 t fgft ] '" , : .:■....; ■ .'^J CHAPTER XIV. TO ZUNI. OCTOBER 28.— To-day we leave the Province of Tusayan for a journey through the Navajo country. There is quite an addition to the party now, for we have a number of Indians em- ployed as freighters. Their asses are loaded with heavy packs of the collections we have made in the various towns of Tusayan. After a while we enter a beautiful canyon coming down from the east, and by noon reach a spring, where we halt for refreshment. The poor little donkeys are thoroughly wearied, but our own animals have had a long rest and have been well fed and are all fresh and active. On the rocks of this canyon picture-writings are etched, and I try to get some account of them from the Indians, but fail. After lunch we start once more. It is a halcyon day, and with a com- panion I leave the train and push on for a view of the country. Away we gallop, my Indian companion and I, over the country toward a great plateau which we can see in the distance. The Salahkai is covered with a beautiful forest. We have an exhilarating ride. When the way becomes stony and rough we must walk our horses. My Indian, who is well mounted on a beautiful bay, is a famous rider. About his brow a kerchief is tied, and his long hair rests on his- back. He has k,ven black eyes and a beaked nose ; about his neck he wi ars se v eral dozen strings of beads, made of nacre shining shells, and little tablets of turkis are perforated and strung on sinew cord ; in his ears lie has silver rings, and his wrists are covered with silver bracelets. His leggings are black velvet, the material for which he has bought from some trader ; his moccasins are tan- colored and decorated with silver ornaments, and the trappings of his horse are decorated in like manner. He carries his rifle with as much ease as if it were a cane, and rides with wonderful 352 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. dexterity. We get on with jargon and sign language pretty well. At night, after a long ride, I descend to the foot of the mesa, and near a little lake I find the camp. The donkey train has not arrived, but soon one after another the Indians come in with their packs, and with white men, Oraibi Indians, Walpi Indians, and Navajos, a good party is assembled. October 20. — We have a long ride before us to-day, for we must reach old Fort Defiance. I stay with the train in order to keep everything moving, for we expect to travel late in the night. On the way no water is found, but in mid-after- noon the trail leads to the brink of a canyon, and the Indians tell me there is water below; so the animals are unpacked and taken down the cliff in a winding way among the rocks, where they are sup- plied with water. Again we start ; night comes on and we are still in the forest ; the trail is good, yet we make slow prog- ress, for some of the ani- mals are weary and we have to wait from time to time for the stragglers. About ten o'clock we de- scend from the plateau to the canyon beneath and are at old Fort Defiance, and the officers at the agency give us a hearty NAVAJO INDIAN WITH SILVER ORNAMENTS. greeting. TO ZUNI. 35^ BRINGING DOWN THE BATTEN. We spend the 30th of October at the agency and see thousands of Indians, for they are gathered to receive rations and annuities. It is a wild spectacle ; groups of Indians are gambling, there are several horse races, and everywhere there is feasting. At night the revelry is increased ; great fires are lighted, and groups of Indians are seen scattered about the plains. November 1. — After a short day's ride we camp at Bock Spring. A fountain gushes from the foot of the mesa. Then another day's ride 354 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. through a land of beauty. On the left there is a line of cliffs, like the Vermilion Cliffs of Utah. In the same red sandstones and on the top of the cliff the Kaibab scenery is duplicated. A great tower on the cliff is known as " Navajo Church." Early in the afternoon we are at Fort Wingate and in civilization once more. The fort is on a beauti- NAVAJO CHURCH, NEAR FORT WING ATE. TO ZUNI. 355 ful site at the foot of the Zuni Plateau. And now our journey with the pack train is ended, and I bid good-by to my Indian friends. My own pack train is to go back to Utah, while from Fort "Wingate I expect to go to Santa Fe in an ambu- lance. But the region about is of interest for its wonderful geologic structure and for the many ruins of ancient pueblos found in the neighborhood. On the 2d of November Captain Johnson, an artillery officer, takes me for a ride among the ruins. Many of these ancient structures are found, but those which are of the most interest are the round towers. Nothing remains of these but the bare walls. They average from IS to 20 feet in diameter, and are usually two or three stories high. Probably they were built, as places of worship. Above Fort Wingate there is a great plateau ; below, there stretches a vast desert plain with round tower ox a rock. mesas and buttes. The ruins are at the foot of the plateau where the streams come down from the pine-clad heights. On the 3d of November with a party of officers I visit Zuni in an am- bulance. The journey is 40 miles, along the foot of the plateau half the way, and then we turn into the desert valley, in the midst of which runs the Zuni Eiver, sometimes in canyons cut in black lava. Zuni is a town much like those already visited, except that it is a little larger. Nothing can be more repulsive than the appearance of the streets ; irregular, crowded, and filthy, in ^vhich dogs, asses, and Indians are mingled in confusion. In the distance Toyalone is seen, a great butte on which an extensive ruin is found, the more ancient home of 356 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. these people, though Zuni itself appears to be hundreds of years old. The people speak a language radically different from that of Tusayan, and no other tribe in the United States has a tongue related to it. In the midst of the town there is an old Spanish church, partly in ruins, but it is still graced with the wooden image of a saint, gayly colored ; and the old tongueless bell remains, for it was sounded with a stone hammer held in the hand of the bellman ; the marks of his blows are deeply indented in the metal. Alvar Nunez Caveza de Yaca was the first white man to see Zuni, when he wandered in that long journey from Florida around by the headwaters of the Arkansas, through what is now New Mexico and Arizona, southward to the City of Mexico. He had with him a Barbary negro, who was killed by the Zuni, and his burial place is still pointed out. Among the Zuni, as among the tribes of Tusayan, the form of govern- ment which prevails throughout the North American tribes is well illus- trated. Kinship is the tie by which the members of the tribe are bound together as a common body of people. Each tribe is divided into a series of clans, and a clan is a group of people that reckon kinship through the family line. The children therefore belong to the clan of the TOYALONE, FROM THE TOP OF A HOUSE IN ZUNI. TO ZUNI. 357 ] ^Mmm?^ : ^^^" TYPICAL TERRACED COMMUNAL PUEBLO. mother. Marriage is always without the clan ; the husband and father must belong to a different clan from the mother and children, and the children belong to their mother and are governed by her brothers, or by her mother's brothers if they be still living. The husband is but the guest of the wife and the clan, and has no other authority in the family than that acquired by personal character. If he is an able and wise man his advice may be taken, but each clan is very jealous of its rights, and the members do not submit to dictation from the guest husband. The woman is not the ruler of the clan ; the ruler is the patriarch or elder man, or if he is not a man of ability a younger and more able man is chosen, who by legal fiction is recognized as the elder. Over the officers of the clan are the officers of the tribe, — a chief with assistant chiefs. The organization by tribal governors varies from tribe to tribe. Sometimes the chieftaincy is hereditary in a particular clan, but more often the chieftaincy is elective. There is very little personal property among the tribal people, such property being confined to clothing, ornaments, and a few inconsiderable articles. The ownership of the great bulk of the property inheres in the clan, such as their 358 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. houses, their patches of land, the food raised from the soil, and the game caught in the chase. Sometimes the clans are grouped, two or more constituting a phratry, and then there are other officers or chiefs stand- ing between the clan and tribal authority. Again, tribes are some- times organized into confederacies, and a grand confederate chief recog- nized. In addition to the chieftaincy of confederate tribes, phratries, and clans, there are councils ; but these are not councils of legislation in the ordinary sense. The councils are clans whose decisions become a prece- dent. Tribal law is therefore court- made law, and such customary law grows out of the exigencies which daily life presents to the people. The problems as they arise are solved as best they may be, and the deliber- ations of the councils look not to the future but only to the present, and are invoked to settle controversy, that peace may be maintained. Of course there is no written constitution or body of laws, but there are traditional reg- ulations which are well preserved in the idioms of oral speech, every rule of procedure or of justice being sooner or later coined into an aphorism. It has been seen that a clan is a body of kinship in the female line ; but the members of the different clans are related to one another by intermarriage. Thus the first tie is by affinity ; but, as fathers belong to other clans than the children, the tie is also by consanguinity. Thus the entire tribe is a body of kindred, and the tribal organization is a fabric with warp of streams of blood and DANCER HOLDING UP THE GREAT PLUMED ARROW. TO ZUNI. 359 woof of marriage ties. When different tribes unite to form a confed- eracy for offensive or defensive purposes, artificial kinship is established. One tribe perhaps is recognized as the grandfather tribe, another is the father tribe, a third is the elder- brother tribe, a fourth is the younger-brother tribe, etc. In these artificial kinships the mem- bers of one tribe address the mem- bers of another tribe by kinship terms established in the treaty. Strangers are sometimes adopted into a clan, and this gives them a status in the tribe. The adoption is usually accomplished by the woman claiming the individual as her youngest son or daughter, and such adopted person has thereupon the status belonging to such a natural child ; and, though he be an adult, he calls the child born into the clan before his advent, though it be but a year old, his elder brother or his elder sister. Then often young men are ad- vanced in the clan because of superior ability, and this is done by giving them a kinship rank higher than that belonging to their real age ; so that it is not infre- quently found that old men address young men as their elder brothers dancer and yield to their authority. The ties of the tribe are kinship, and authority inheres in superior age ; but in order to adjust these rules so that the abler men may be given control, artificial kinship and artificial age are established. The civil chiefs direct the daily life of the people in their labors. SWALLOWING 77 THE GREAT PLTJMED ARROW. 160 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. NAVAJO WOMAN WEAVING A BELT. To the civil organization of the tribe, as thus indicated, there is added a military organization, and war chiefs are selected. But usually these war chiefs are something more than war chiefs, for they also constitute a constabulary to preserve peace and mete out punish- ment ; and young men from the various clans are designated as warriors TO ZUNI. 361 and advanced in military rank according to merit. There is thus a brotherhood of warriors, and every man in this brotherhood recognizes all others of the group as being elder or younger, and so assumes or NAVAJO WOMAN SPINNING. to zuni. 363 yields authority in all matters pertaining to war and the enforcement of criminal law. In addition to the secular government there is always a cult govern- ment. In every tribe there are Shamans, designated variously by white men as " medicine men," "priests," "priest doctors," " theurgists," etc. In many tribes, perhaps in all, the people are organized into Shamanistic societies ; but that these societies are invariably recognized is not certain. The Shamans are always found. Among the Zuni there are thirteen of these cult societies. The purpose of Shamanistic insti- tutions is to control the conduct of the members of the tribe in relation to mythic personages, the mysterious beings in which the savage men believe. In the mind of the savage the world is peopled by a host of mythic beings, anthropomorphic and zoomorphic. The difference between man and brute recognized in civilization is unrecognized in savagery. All animal life is wonderful and magical to sylvan man. Wisdom, cunning, skill, and prowess are attributed to the real animals to a degree often greater than to man j and there are mythic animals as well as mythic men — monsters dwelling in the mountains and caves or hiding in the waters, who make themselves invisible as they pass over the land. Not only are there great monsters, beasts, and reptiles in their mythology, but there are wonderful insects and worms. All life is miraculous and is worshiped as divine. The heavenly bodies, the sun and moon and stars, are mythic animals, and all of the phenomena of nature are attributed to these zoic beings. For example, the Indian knows nothing of the ambient air. The wind is the breath of some beast, or it is a fanning which rises from under the wings of a mythic bird. All the phenomena of nature, the rising and setting of the sun, the waxing and waning of the moon, the shining of the stars, the coming of comets, the flash of meteors, the change of seasons, the gathering and vanishing of the clouds, the blowing of the winds, the falling of the rain, the spreading of the snow, and all other phenomena of physical nature, are held to be the acts of these wonderful zoic deities. It is deemed of prime importance that such deities should be induced to act in the interest of men. Thus it is that Shamanistic government is held to be of as great importance as tribal government, and the Shamans are the peers of the chiefs. With some tribes the cult socie- 364 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. ties have greater powers than the clan ; with other tribes clan govern- ment is the more important ; bnt always there is a conflict of authority, and there is a perpetual war between Shamanistic and civil government. These Shamans and cult societies have a great variety of functions to perform. All disease and all injuries are attributed to mythic beings or to witchcraft, and on these pathologic ideas the medicine practices of the people are based. The medicine men are sorcerers, who vork wonders in discovering witchcraft and averting its effects or in discover- ing the disease-making animals and overcoming their power. So the Shamans and the cult societies are the possessors of medicine and ceremonies designed to prevent and cure human ailments. They also have charge of the ceremonies necessary to avert disaster and to secure success in all the affairs of life in peace and war j and they prescribe methods and observances and furnish charms and amulets, and in every way possible control human conduct in its relation to the un- known. No small part of savage life is devoted to cult ceremonies and observances. The hunter cannot penetrate the forest without his charm j the woman cannot plant corn until a ceremony is performed for securing the blessings of some divine being. Religious festivals and ceremonies are carried on for days and weeks. A war must be submitted to the gods, and a sneeze demands a prayer. Our arrival at Fort Wingate practically ended the exploration of the great valley of the Colorado. This was in 1870. In 1891 we can look back upon the completion of the survey of all of that region, for it has now been carefully mapped. The geology of the country has been studied, and the tribes which inhabit it have been subjects of care- ful research. This work has been carried oil by a large corps of men, and interesting results have accrued. ASHTISHKEE, A NAVAJO CHIEF I I mti •• "Mm i *f , I '■''iV* < ' • \tViV 1 "■■' My..4i.H\iv 1 ! -.'» f II > j 3 > ,i! 1 /# m- i f L«f ♦'■■ «1 ^ W ;» i 5 V: •*s7-< ' I''".' I'tf ZTjftl FETICHES. EFFIGY POTTERY FROM ZU^Tl. ZTJSI POTTERY. ZU$5T grails. CULINARY POTTERY FROM ZUNI. .NAVAJO FABRICS. -_-v- : --~;j&* THE GRAND CANYON. CHAPTER XV. THE GRAND CANYON. THE Grand Canyon is a gorge 217 miles in length, through which flows a great river with many storm-born tributaries. It has a winding way, as rivers are wont to have. Its banks are vast structures of adamant, piled up in forms rarely seen in the mountains. Down by the river the walls are composed of black gneiss, slates, and schists, all greatly implicated and traversed by dikes of granite. Let this formation be called the black gneiss. It is usually about 800 feet in thickness. Then over the black gneiss are found 800 feet of quartzites, usually in very thin beds of many colors, but exceedingly hard, and ringing under the hammer like phonolite. These beds are dipping and unconformable with the rocks above ; while they make but 800 feet of the wall or less, they have a geological thickness of 12,000 feet. Set up a row of books aslant ; it is 10 inches from the shelf to the top of the line of books, but there may be 3 feet of the books measured directly through the leaves. So these quartzites are aslant, and though of great geologic thickness, they make but 800 feet of the wall. Your books may have many- colored bindings and differ greatly in their contents ; so these quartzites vary greatly from place to place along the wall, and in many places they entirely disappear. Let us call this formation the variegated quartzite. Above the quartzites there are 500 feet of sandstones. They are of a greenish hue, but are mottled with spots of brown and black by iron stains. They usually stand in a bold cliff, weathered in alcoves. Let this formation be called the cliff sandstone. Above the cliff sandstone there are 700 feet of bedded sandstones and limestones, which are massive sometimes and sometimes broken into 380 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. thin strata. These rocks are often weathered in deep alcoves. Let this formation be called the alcove sandstone. Over the alcove sandstone there are 1,600 feet of limestone, in many places a beautiful marble, as in Marble Canyon. As it appears along the Grand Canyon it is always stained a brilliant red, for immediately over it there are thin seams of iron, and the storms have painted these limestones with pigments from above. Altogether this is the red- wall group. It is chiefly limestone. Let it be called the red wall lime- stone. Above the red wall there are 800 feet of gray and bright red sand- stone, alternating in beds that look like vast ribbons of landscape. Let it be called the banded sandstone. And over all, at the top of the wall, is the Aubrey limestone, 1,000 feet in thickness. This Aubrey has much gypsum in it, great beds of alabaster that are pure white in comparison with the great body of limestone below. In the same limestone there are enormous beds of chert, agates, and carnelians. This limestone is especially remark- able for its pinnacles and towers. Let it be called the tower limestone. Now recapitulate : The black gneiss below, 800 feet in thickness ; the variegated quartzite, 800 feet in thickness ; the cliff sandstone, 500 feet in thickness ; the alcove sandstone, 700 feet in thickness ; the red wall limestone, 1, 600 feet in thickness j the banded sandstone, 800 feet in thickness ; the tower limestone, 1,000 feet in thickness. These are the elements with which the walls are constructed, from black buttress below to alabaster tower above. All of these elements weather in different forms and are painted in different colors, so that the wall presents a highly complex facade. A wall of homogeneous granite, like that in the Yosemite, is but a naked wall, whether it be 1,000 or 5,000 feet high. Hundreds and thousands of feet mean nothing to the eye when they stand in a meaningless front. A mountain covered by pure snow 10,000 feet high has but little more effect on the imagi- nation than a mountain of snow 1,000 feet high — it is but more of the same thing ; but a facade of seven systems of rock has its sublimity multiplied sevenfold. Let the effect of this multiplied facade be more clearly realized. Stand by the river side at some point where only the black gneiss THE GRAND CANYON. 383 is seen. A precipitous wall of mountain rises over the river, with crag and pinnacle and cliff in black and brown, and through it runs an angular pattern of red and gray dikes of granite. It is but a mountain cliff which may be repeated in many parts of the world, except that it is singularly naked of vegetation, and the few plants that find footing are of strange tropical varieties and are conspicuous because of their infrequency. Now climb 800 feet and a point of view is reached where the variegated quartzites are seen. At the summit of the black gneiss a terrace is found, and, set back of this terrace, walls of elaborate sculp- ture appear, 800 feet in height. This is due to the fact that though the rocks are exceedingly hard they are in very thin layers or strata, and these strata are not horizontal, but stand sometimes on edge, sometimes highly inclined, and sometimes gently inclined. In these variegated beds there are many deep recesses and sharp salients, everywhere set with crags, and the wall is buttressed by a steep talus in many places. In the sheen of the midday sun, these rocks, which are be- sprinkled with quartz crystals, gleam like walls of diamonds. A climb of 800 feet over the variegated beds and the foot of the cliff sandstone is reached. It is usually olive green, with spots of brown and black, and presents 500 feet of vertical wall over the variegated sand- stone. The dark green is in fine contrast with the variegated beds below and the red wall above. Climb these 500 feet and you stand on the cliff sandstone. A terrace appears, and sometimes a wall of terraces set with alcoves of marvelous structure. Climb to the summit of this alcove sandstone — 700 feet — and you stand at the foot of the red wall limestone. Sometimes this stands in two, three, or four Cyclopean steps — a mighty stairway. Oftener the red wall stands in a vertical cliff 1,600 feet high. It is the most conspicuous feature of the grand facade and imparts its chief characteristic. All below is but a foundation for it ; all above, but an entablature and sky-line of gable, tower, pinnacle, and spire. It is not a plain, unbroken wall, but is broken into vast amphitheaters, often miles around, between great angular salients. The amphitheaters also are broken into great niches that are sometimes vast chambers and sometimes royal arches 500 or 1,000 feet in height. ROUNDED INWARD CURVES AND PROJECTING CUSPS OF THE WALLS. THE GRAND CANYON. 385 Over the red wall limestone, with its amphitheaters, chambers, niches, and royal arches — a climb of 1,600 feet — is the banded sandstone, the entablature over the niched and columned marble, an adamantine molding 800 feet in thickness, stretching along the walls of the canyon through hundreds of miles. This banded sandstone has massive strata separated by friable shales. The massive strata are the horizontal elements in the entablature, but the intervening shales are carved with a beautiful fretwork of vertical forms, the sculpture of the rills. The massive sandstones are white, gray, blue, and purple, but the shales are a brilliant red j thus variously colored bands of massive rock are sepa- rated by bands of vertically carved shales of a brilliant hue. On these highly colored beds the tower limestone is found, 1,000 feet in height. Everywhere this is carved into towers, minarets, and domes, gray and cold, golden and warm, alabaster and pure, in wonderful variety. Such are the vertical elements of which the Grand Canyon facade is composed. Its horizontal elements must next be considered. The river meanders in great curves, which are themselves broken into curves of smaller magnitude. The streams that head far back in the plateau on either side come down in gorges and break the wall into sections. Each lateral canyon has a secondary system of laterals, and the secondary canyons are broken by tertiary canyons ; so the crags are forever branch- ing, like the limbs of an oak. That which has been described as a wall is such only in its grand effect. In detail it is a series of structures separated by a ramification of canyons, each having its own walls. Thus, in passing down the canyon it seems to be inclosed by walls, but oftener by salients — towering structures that stand between canyons that run back into the plateau. Sometimes gorges of the second or third order have met before reaching the brink of the Grand Canyon, and then great salients are cut off from the wall and stand out as buttes — huge pavilions in the architecture of the canyon. The scenic elements thus described are fused and combined in very different ways. We measured the length of the Grand Canyon by the length of the river running through it, but the running extent of wall cannot be measured in this manner. In the black gneiss, which is at the bottom, the wall may stand above the river for a few hundred yards or a 386 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. mile or two ; then, to follow the foot of the wall, you must pass into a lateral canyon for a long distance, perhaps miles, and then back again on the other side of the lateral canyon ; then along by the river until another lateral canyon is reached, which must be headed in the black gneiss. So, for a dozen miles of river through the gneiss, there may be a hundred miles of wall on either side. Climbing to the summit of the black gneiss and following the wall in the variegated quartzite, it is found to be stretched out to a still greater length, for it is cut with more lateral gorges. In like manner, there is yet greater length of the mottled, or alcove, sandstone wall ,* and the red wall is still farther stretched out in ever branching gorges. To make the distance for ten miles along the river by walking along the top of the red wall, it would be necessary to travel several hundred miles. The length of the wall reaches its maximum in the banded sandstone, which is terraced more than any of the other formations. The tower limestone wall is less tortuous. To start at the head of the Grand Canyon on one of the terraces of the banded sandstone and follow it to the foot of the Grand Canyon, which by river is a distance of 217 miles, it would be necessary to travel many thousand miles by the winding way ; that is, the banded wall is many thousand miles in length. Stand at some point on the brink of the Grand Canyon where you can overlook the river, and the details of the structure, the vast labyrinth of gorges of which it is composed, are scarcely noticed ; the elements are lost in the grand effect, and a broad, deep, flaring gorge of many colors is seen. But stand down among these gorges and the landscape seems to be composed of huge vertical elements of wonderful form. Above, it is an open, sunny gorge j below, it is deep and gloomy. Above, it is a chasm ; below, it is a stairway from gloom to heaven. The traveler in the region of mountains sees vast masses piled up in gentle declivities to the clouds. To see mountains in this way is to appreciate the masses of which they are composed. But the climber among the glaciers sees the elements of which this mass is composed, — that it is made of cliffs and towers and pinnacles, with intervening gorges, and the smooth billows of granite seen from afar are transformed into cliffs and caves and towers and minarets. These two aspects of mountain scenery have been seized by painters, and in their art PSlfPP -^^ — r- •> — -1 .///' r — y~ S \ 'Vv / / / i—TX THE EASTERN TEMPLE. ?>1 Ift^A?'^ THE WESTERN TEMPLE. THE GRAND CANYON. 389 two classes of mountains are represented : mountains with towering forms that seem ready to topple in the first storm, and mountains in masses that seem to frown defiance at the tempests. Both classes have told the truth. The two aspects are sometimes caught by our paint- ers severally ; sometimes they are combined. Church paints a mountain like a kingdom of glory. Bierstadt paints a mountain cliff where an eagle is lost from sight ere he reaches the summit. Thomas Moran marries these great characteristics, and in his infinite masses cliffs of immeasurable height are seen. Thus the elements of the facade of the Grand Canyon change ver- tically and horizontally. The details of structure can be seen only at close view, but grand effects of structure can be witnessed in great panoramic scenes. Seen in detail, gorges and precipices appear; seen at a distance, in comprehensive views, vast massive structures are presented. The traveler on the brink looks from afar and is over- whelmed with the sublimity of massive forms ; the traveler among the gorges stands in the presence of awful mysteries, profound, solemn, and gloomy. For 8 or 10 miles below the mouth of the Little Colorado, the river is in the variegated quartzites, and a wonderful fretwork of forms and colors, peculiar to this rock, stretches back for miles to a labyrinth of the red wall cliff ; then below, the black gneiss is entered and soon has reached an altitude of 800 feet and sometimes more than 1,000 feet ; and upon this black gneiss all the other structures in their wonderful colors are lifted. These continue for about 70 miles, when the black gneiss below is lost, for the walls are dropped down by the West Kaibab Fault, and the river flows in the quartzites. Then for 80 miles the mottled, or alcove, sandstones are found in the river bed. The course of the canyon is a little south of west and is comparatively straight. At the top of the red wall limestone there is a broad terrace, two or three miles in width, composed of hills of wonderful forms carved in the banded beds, and back of this is seen a cliff in the tower limestone. Along the lower course of this stretch the whole character of the canyon is changed by another set of com- plicating conditions. We have now reached a region of volcanic activity. After the canyons were cut nearly to their present depth, 390 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. lavas poured out and volcanoes were built on the walls of the canyon, but not in the canyon itself, though at places rivers of molten rock rolled down the walls into the Colorado. The next 80 miles of the canyon is a compouud of that found where the river is in the black gneiss and that found where the dead volcanoes stand on the brink of the wall. In the first stretch, where the gneiss is at the foundation, we have a great bend to the south, and in the last stretch, where the gneiss is below and the dead volcanoes above, an- other great southern detour is found. These two great beds are separated by 80 miles of comparatively straight river. Let us call this first great bend the Kaibab reach of the canyon, and the straight part the Kanab reach^ for the Kanab Creek heads far off in the plateau to the north and joins the Colorado at the beginning of the middle stretch. The third great southern bend is the Shiwits stretch. Thus there are three distinct portions of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado : the Kaibab section, characterized more by its buttes and sali- ents ; the Kanab section, characterized by its comparatively straight walls with volcanoes on the brink ; and the Shiwits section, which is broken into great terraces with gneiss at the bottom and volcanoes at the top. The Grand Canyon of the Colorado is a canyon composed of many canyons. It is a composite of thousands, of tens of thousands, of gorges. In like manner, each wall of the canyon is a composite structure, a wall composed of many walls, but never a repetition. Every one of these almost innumerable gorges is a world of beauty in itself. In the Grand Canyon there are thousands of gorges like that below Niagara Falls, and there are a thousand Yosemites. Yet all these canyons unite to form one grand canyon, the most sublime spectacle on the earth. Pluck up Mt. Washington by the - roots to the level of the sea and drop it headfirst into the Grand Canyon, and the dam will not force its waters over the walls. Pluck up the Blue Ridge and hurl it into the Grand Canyon, and it will not fill it. The carving of the Grand Canyon is the work of rains and rivers. The vast labyrinth of canyon by which the plateau region drained by the Colorado is dissected is also the work of waters. Every river has excavated its own gorge and every creek has excavated its gorge. When GRANITE FALLS, KIABAJB DIVISION, GRAND CANYON. DIKES IN THE CANYON WALL. THE GRAND CANYON. 393 a shower comes in this land, the rills carve canyons — but a little at each storm ; and though storms are far apart and the heavens above are cloudless for most of the days of the year, still, years are plenty in the ages, and an intermittent rill called to life by a shower can do much work in centuries of centuries. The erosion represented in the canyons, although vast, is but a small part of the great erosion of the region, for between the cliffs blocks have been carried away far superior in magnitude to those necessary to fill the canyons. Probably there is no portion of the whole region from which there have not been more than a thousand feet degraded, and there are districts from which more than 30,000 feet of rock have been carried away. Altogether, there is a district of country more than 200,000 square miles in extent from which on the average more than 6, 000 feet have been eroded. Consider a rock 200, 000 square miles in extent and a mile in thickness, against which the clouds have hurled their storms and beat it into sands and the rills have carried the sands into the creeks and the creeks have carried them into the rivers and the Colorado has carried them into the sea. We think of the mountains as forming clouds about their brows, but the clouds have formed the mountains. Great con- tinental blocks are upheaved from beneath the sea by internal geologic forces that fashion the earth. Then the wandering clouds, the tempest- bearing clouds, the rainbow-decked clouds, with mighty power and with wonderful skill, carve out valleys and canyons and fashion hills and cliffs and mountains. The clouds are the artists sublime. In winter some of the characteristics of the Grand Canyon are empha- sized. The black gneiss below, the variegated quartzite, and the green or alcove sandstone form the foundation for the mighty red wall. The banded sandstone entablature is crowned by the tower limestone. In winter this is covered with snow. Seen from below, these changing elements seem to graduate into the heavens, and no plane of demarcation between wall and blue firmament can be seen. The heavens constitute a portion of the facade and mount into a vast dome from wall to wall, spanning the Grand Canyon with empyrean blue. So the earth and the heavens are blended in one vast structure. When the clouds play in the canyon, as they often do in the rainy season, another set of effects is produced. Clouds creep out of canyons 334 CANYONS OF THE COLORADO. and wind into other canyons. The heavens seem to be alive, not moving as move the heavens over a plain, in one direction with the wind, but following the multiplied courses of these gorges. In this manner the little clouds seem to be individualized, to have wills and souls of their own, and to be going on diverse errands — a vast assemblage of self-willed clouds, faring here and there, intent upon purposes hidden in their own breasts. In the imagination the clouds belong to the sky, and when they are in the canyon the skies come down into the gorges and cling to the cliffs and lift them up to immeasurable heights, for the sky must still be far away. Thus they lend infinity to the walls. The wonders of the Grand Canyon cannot be adequately represented in symbols of speech, nor by speech itself. The resources of the graphic art are taxed beyond their powers in attempting to portray its features. Language and illustration combined must fail. The elements that unite to make the Grand Canyon the most sublime spectacle in nature are mul- tifarious and exceedingly diverse. The Cyclopean forms which result from the sculpture of tempests through ages too long for man to compute, are wrought into endless details, to describe which would be a task equal in magnitude to that of describing the stars of the heavens or the multi- tudinous beauties of the forest with its traceries of foliage presented by oak and pine and poplar, by beech and linden and hawthorn, by tulip and lily and rose, by fern and moss and lichen. Besides the elements of form, there are elements of color, for here the colors of the heavens are rivaled by the colors of the rocks. The rainbow is not more replete with hues. But form and color do not exhaust all the divine qualities of the Grand Canyon. It is the land of music. The river thunders in perpetual roar, swelling in floods of music when the storm gods play upon the rocks and fading away in soft and low murmurs when the infinite blue of heaven is unveiled. With the melody of the great tide rising and falling, swelling and vanishing forever, other melodies are heard in the gorges of the lateral canyons, while the waters plunge in the rapids among the rocks or leap in great cataracts. Thus the Grand Canyon is a land of song. Mountains of music swell in the rivers, hills of music billow in the creeks, and meadows of music murmur in the rills that ripple over the rocks. Altogether it is a symphony of multitudinous melodies. All this is the music of waters. The adamant PINNACLES OF THE KAIBAB. KEY TO THE PANORAMA FRO !. C. Eastern Cloister. F. San Francisco Mount. K. Mount Kendricka. H. Hindoo Amphitheater. S. Shiva's Temple. R. Cape Royal. INT SUBLIME.— LOOKING EAST. 1. Cberty limestone. 2. Upper Aubrey limestone. 3. Cross-bedded sandstone. 4. Lower Aubrey sandstones. 5. Upper Red "Wall. 6. Red Wall limestones. 7. Lower Carboniferous sandstones. KEY TO THE PANORAMA FRO! E. Mount Emma. I. Inner Gorsre. P. Powell's Plateau. T. Mount Trumbull. 1. Cherty limestone. 2. Upper Aubrey limestone. 3. Cross-bedded sandstone. ?-±£:iml ffv/ I > ■'Kiif'I'"" i wmm^^0^ (Mm MM NT SUBLIME.— LOOKING WEST. 4. Lower Aubrey sandstones. 5. Upper Red Wall sandstones 6. Red Wall limestone. 7. Lower Carboniferous sandstones 8. Quartzite base of Carboniferous. 9. Archaean. \' : '& i 1 v-',V, A. Bill William's Peak. B. Tower of Babel. C. Colorado River. F. Mount Floyd. G. Mount Sitgreavea. I. Inner Gorge. T. T. Twin Temples. W.C. West Cloister. KEY TO THE PANORAMA FRO] 1. Cherty limestone, 240 feet. 2. Upper Aubrey limestone, 320 feet. 3. Cross-bedded sandstone, 380 feet. wS&k 1111 ^^i&sS^ -^><- y; i^m I! i ftp • fe^J/'W ■- - V fs~ fa--' fir^W? POINT SUBLIME.— LOOKING SOUTH. 4. Lower Aubrey sandstones, 950 feet. 5. Upper Red "Wall sandstones, 400 feet. S. Red Wall limestones, 1,500 feet. 7. Lower Carboniferous sandstones, 550 feet. 8. Quartzite base of Carboniferous, 180 feet. 9. Archaean. GRAND CANYON AT THE FOOT OF LMJfi TUKUWEAP, LOOKING EAST. THE GREAT UNCONFORMITY AT wffjy r HEAD OF THE GRAND CANYON. THE GRAND CANYON. 397 foundations of the earth have been wrought into a sublime harp, upon which the clouds of the heavens play with mighty tempests or with gentle showers. The glories and the beauties of form, color, and sound unite in the Grand Canyon — forms unrivaled even by the mountains, colors that vie with sunsets, and sounds that span the diapason from tempest to tinkling raindrop, from cataract to bubbling fountain. But more : it is a vast district of country. Were it a valley plain it would make a state. It can be seen only in parts from hour to hour and from day to day and from week to week and from month to month. A year scarcely suffices to see it all. It has infinite variety, and no part is ever duplicated. Its colors, though many and complex at any instant, change with the as- cending and declining sun ; lights and shadows appear and vanish with the passing clouds, and the changing seasons mark their passage in changing colors. You cannot see the Grand Canyon in one view, as if it were a changeless spectacle from which a curtain might be lifted, but to see it you have to toil from month to month through its laby- rinths. It is a region more difficult to traverse than the Alps or the Himalayas, but if strength and courage are sufficient for the task, by a year's toil a concept of sublimity can be obtained never again to be equaled on the hither side of Paradise. INDEX. PAGE Apache Indians, home and character of the 24 Art, ancient, vestiges of, in the Gila and Colorado valleys .... 24 Bad lands, formation and characteristics of the 68, 71 Bad lands of Green River 124 Baker, John, a famous mountaineer 131 Bierstadt, how he paints a mountain 389 Boats and cargoes, description of 119 Bosque Redondo, Navajos on a reservation at the 52 Bradley, G. T., a member of the expedition v, 120 Bradley rescues others from the water 284 Buttes, mesas, plateaus, distinction between 46 Canyon cutting in the upper Colorado basin 29 Cavate or cliff dwellings of the Tewan Indians 56 Caves in a volcanic crater used as habitations by Indians .... 43 Caves in cliffs used as habitations by Indians 41 Ceremony at Shupaulovi to bring rain 338-342 Chambers excavated in volcanic ashes by Indians for habitations . . 42 Chumehueva Indians, low condition and former home of the . . .27 Church, how he paints a mountain 389 Cinder-cone town formerly inhabited by Indians 42 Cliff dwellings of the Tewan Indians _.. 56 Cliff village of Walnut Canyon 41 Collecting specimens of the art of Tusayan 342-344 Colorado Canyon broken by lateral, canyons 29 Colorado Desert, singular characteristics of the 22 Crater town formerly inhabited by Indians 43 Cult societies among the Indians . . . 363-364 Death, supposed, of the author . . . iii Digger Indians, the original 27 Dunn, W. H., a member of the expedition v, 120 Dunn, W. H., abandons the party and is killed by Indians .... 280,323 Freebooters of the Plateau Province 84 Fremont's Peak, height of and view from 67 Garfield, J. A., insists on the publication of the history of the expedition . iv Goodman, Frank, a member of the expedition v, 120 Goodman, Frank, leaves the party 187 Government, civil, military, and religious, among the tribes of Tusayan . 356-364 Grand Canyon, how formed 89 Grand Canyon, the most sublime spectacle on earth 390,397 Grand Canyon walls, elements of and height of 251, 379-389 Hall, Andrew, a member of the expedition v, 120 Hano, a visit to 345 Hano, location and language of 49 Hawkins, W. R., a member of the expedition . v, 120 Howland, O. G., a member of the expedition v, 120 Howland, Seneca, a member of the expedition v, 120 Howland and Dunn abandon the party and are killed by Indians . . 280, 323 Instruments, tools, rations, etc. 119 Irrigation and hydraulic works built by the Indians 24 Irrigation developed by the Navajo and other Indians . . . .52, 111 Killing by the Shivwits of the three men who left the party ... 323 Kinship ties among the tribes of North America 356-358 Kit Carson, leadership of, against the Navajos 51 Maricopa Indians, home and character of the 24 Marriage and kinship ties among the North American Indians . . . 357-359 Mashongnavi, a visit to 335 400 INDEX. PAGE . Mashongnavi, location and language of 49 Medicine-man as historian, priest, and doctor 65, 106, 363 Men who composed the exploring party 120 Mesas, plateaus, buttes, distinction between 46 Mogollon Escarpment, description of the 27 Mojave Indians, former home and life of the 27 Moran, Thomas, how he paints a mountain , 389 Moran, Thomas, painting of " The Chasm of the Colorado " . . . .328 Myth, Indian, of the origin of the Colorado Canyon and River ... 37 Myth of the Sokus Waiunats, or One-Two Boys 303-311 Mythic stories of the Ute and other Indians 65, 107 Navajo Indians, home, characteristics, language, art, etc., of the ... 51 Oraibi, a visit to 335 Oraibi, collecting the arts of the people of 342-344 Oraibi, life at 336-338 Oraibi, location and language of 49 Painted Desert region, description of the 45 Papago Indians, home and character of the 24 Pestilence and war causes of abandonment of pueblos and rancherias . 113 Pima Indians, home and character of the 24 Plateaus, mesas, buttes, distinction between 46 Powell, W. H., a member of the expedition v, 120 Pueblo Indians, languages and culture of the . . Ill Rabbit snaring by the Utes 105 Rations, clothing, ammunition, tools, and scientific instruments . . . 119 Rescued from a perilous position 169 Ruins in the Grand Canyon region 107 Ruins of ancient pueblo-building tribes in the valley of the Little Colorado and vicinity 49, 53 Ruins of ancient pueblo-building tribes on San Francisco Plateau ... 40 Ruins of cavate or cliff dwellings of the Tewan Indians .... 56 Scenic features of the Canyon land 32 Shivwits chief talks 321-323 Shoshone Indians, home and life of the 71 Shumopavi, a visit to 335 Shumopavi, location and language of 49 Shupaulovi, a visit to 338-242 Shupaulovi, location and language of 49 Sichumovi, a visit to 345 Sichumovi, location and language of 49 Snake dance at Walpi 346-347 Sokus Waiunats, or One-Two Boys 303-311 Spanish expeditions and conquerors in the Southwest 260 Starting from Green River City for the Canyon . 119 Stories, mythic, of the Ute and other Indians 65, 107 Storm below the beholder 98 Sumner, J. C, a member of the expedition v, 120 Thousand Wells 334 Timber region of Arizona, description of the 39 Trumbull, Mount, ascent of 324-325 Tusayan, the seven pueblos of 49,335 Tusayan, tribes of, government among the 356-364 Tusayan, two weeks spent at 335 Uinta Indians, home of the 75 Ute Indians, home, life, dress, etc., of the 27, 62, 84, 104 Volcanic dust, enormous amount of, on Tewan Plateau 55 Walpi, a visit to 345 Walpi, location and language of 49 War and pestilence causes of abandonment of pueblos and rancherias . 113 Yellowstone Park, the land of geyser wonders 67 Yuma Indians, former home and life of the 27 A CATALOGUE OF SELECTED DOVER BOOKS IN ALL FIELDS OF INTEREST A CATALOGUE OF SELECTED DOVER BOOKS IN ALL FIELDS OF INTEREST CELESTIAL OBJECTS FOR COMMON TELESCOPES, T. W. Webb. The most used book in amateur astronomy: inestimable aid for locating and identifying nearly 4,000 celestial objects. Edited, updated by Margaret W. Mayall. 77 illustrations. Total of 645pp. 5% x 8Y 2 . 20917-2, 20918-0 Pa., Two-vol. set $8.00 HISTORICAL STUDIES IN THE LANGUAGE OF CHEMISTRY, M. P. Crosland. The important part language has played in the development of chemistry from the symbolism of alchemy to the adoption of systematic nomenclature in 1892. ". . . wholeheartedly recommended," — Science. 15 illustrations. 416pp. of text. 5% x 8*4. 63702-6 Pa. $6.00 BURNHAM'S CELESTIAL HANDBOOK, Robert Burnham, Jr. Thorough, readable guide to the stars beyond our solar system. Exhaustive treatment, fully illustrated. Breakdown is alphabetical by constellation: Andromeda to Cetus in Vol. 1; Chamaeleon to Orion in Vol. 2; and Pavo to Vulpecula in Vol. 3. Hundreds of illustrations. Total of about 2000pp. 6% x 9%. 23567-X, 23568-8, 23673-0 Pa., Three-vol. set $26.85 THEORY OF WING SECTIONS: INCLUDING A SUMMARY OF AIR- FOIL DATA, Ira H. Abbott and A. E. von Doenhoff. Concise compilation of subatomic aerodynamic characteristics of modern NASA wing sections, plus description of theory. 350pp. of tables. 693pp. 5% x 8%. 60586-8 Pa. $6.50 DE RE METALLICA, Georgius Agricola. Translated by Herbert C. Hoover and Lou H. Hoover. The famous Hoover translation of greatest treatise on technological chemistry, engineering, geology, mining of early modem times (1556). All 289 original woodcuts. 638pp. 6 3 / 4 x 11. 60006-8 Clothbd. $17.50 THE ORIGIN OF CONTINENTS AND OCEANS, Alfred Wegener. One of the most influential, most controversial books in science, the classic statement for continental drift. Full 1966 translation of Wegener's final (1929) version. 64 illustrations. 246pp. 5% x 8V 2 . 61708-4 Pa. $3.00 THE PRINCIPLES OF PSYCHOLOGY, William James. Famous long course complete, unabridged. Stream of thought, time perception, memory, experimental methods; great work decades ahead of its time. Still valid, useful; read in many classes. 94 figures. Total of 1391pp. 5% x 8V2. 20381-6, 20382-4 Pa., Two-vol. set $13.00 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS THE PHILOSOPHY OF HISTORY, Georg W. Hegel. Great classic of Western thought develops concept that history is not chance but a rational process, the evolution of freedom. 457pp. 5% x 8Y2. 20112-0 Pa. $4.50 LANGUAGE, TRUTH AND LOGIC, Alfred J. Ayer. Famous, clear intro- duction to Vienna, Cambridge schools of Logical Positivism. Role of phil- osophy, elimination of metaphysics, nature of analysis, etc. 160pp. 5% x 8Y2. (Available in U.S. only) 20010-8 Pa. $1.75 A PREFACE TO LOGIC, Morris R. Cohen. Great City College teacher in renowned, easily followed exposition of formal logic, probability, values, logic and world order and similar topics; no previous background needed. 209pp. 5% x 8Y2. 23517-3 Pa. $3.50 REASON AND NATURE, Morris R. Cohen. Brilliant analysis of reason and its multitudinous ramifications by charismatic teacher. Interdisciplinary, syn- thesizing work widely praised when it first appeared in 1931. Second (1953) edition. Indexes. 496pp. 5% x 8Y2. 23633-1 Pa. $6.00 AN ESSAY CONCERNING HUMAN UNDERSTANDING, John Locke. The only complete edition of enormously important classic, with authorita- tive editorial material by A. C. Fraser. Total of 1176pp. 5% x 8Y2. 20530-4, 20531-2 Pa., Two-vol. set $14.00 HANDBOOK OF MATHEMATICAL FUNCTIONS WITH FORMULAS, GRAPHS, AND MATHEMATICAL TABLES, edited by Milton Abramo- witz and Irene A. Stegun. Vast compendium: 29 sets of tables, some to as high as 20 places. 1,046pp. 8 x 10y 2 . 61272-4 Pa. $12.50 MATHEMATICS FOR THE PHYSICAL SCIENCES, Herbert S. Wilf. Highly acclaimed work offers clear presentations of vector spaces and matrices, orthogonal functions, roots of polynomial equations, conformal mapping, calculus of variations, etc. Knowledge of theory of functions of real and complex variables is assumed. Exercises and solutions. Index. 284pp. 5% x 8y 4 . 63635-6 Pa. $4.50 THE PRINCIPLE OF RELATIVITY, Albert Einstein et al. Eleven most important original papers on special and general theories. Seven by Ein- stein, two by Lorentz, one each by Minkowski and Weyl. All translated, unabridged. 216pp. 5% x 8Y2. 60081-5 Pa. $3.00 THERMODYNAMICS, Enrico Fermi. A classic of modern science. Clear, organized treatment of systems, first and second laws, entropy, thermody- namic potentials, gaseous reactions, dilute solutions, entropy constant. No math beyond calculus required. Problems. 160pp. 5% x 8Y2. 60361-X Pa. $2.75 ELEMENTARY MECHANICS OF FLUIDS, Hunter Rouse. Classic under- graduate text widely considered to be far better than many later books. Ranges from fluid velocity and acceleration to role of compressibility in fluid motion. Numerous examples, questions, problems. 224 illustrations. 376pp. 5% x 8V4. 63699-2 Pa. $5.00 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS THE SENSE OF BEAUTY, George Santayana. Masterfully written dis- cussion of nature of beauty, materials of beauty, form, expression; art, litera- ture, social sciences all involved. 168pp. 5% x 8V 2 . 20238-0 Pa. $2.50 ON THE IMPROVEMENT OF THE UNDERSTANDING, Benedict Spinoza. Also contains Ethics, Correspondence, all in excellent R. Elwes translation. Basic works on entry to philosophy, pantheism, exchange of ideas with great contemporaries. 402pp. 5% x 8%. 20250-X Pa. $3.75 THE TRAGIC SENSE OF LIFE, Miguel de Unamuno. Acknowledged masterpiece of existential literature, one of most important books of 20th century. Introduction by Madariaga. 367pp. 5% x 8%. 20257-7 Pa. $3.50 THE GUIDE FOR THE PERPLEXED, Moses Maimonides. Great classic of medieval Judaism attempts to reconcile revealed religion (Pentateuch, commentaries) with Aristotelian philosophy. Important historically, still relevant in problems. Unabridged Friedlander translation. Total of 473pp. 5% x 8y 2 . 20351-4 Pa. $5.00 THE I CHING (THE BOOK OF CHANGES), translated by James Legge. Complete translation of basic text plus appendices by Confucius, and Chinese commentary of most penetrating divination manual ever prepared. Indispensable to study of early Oriental civilizations, to modern inquiring reader. 448pp. 5% x 8y 2 . 21062-6 Pa. $4.00 THE EGYPTIAN BOOK OF THE DEAD, E. A. Wallis Budge. Complete reproduction of Ani's papyrus, finest ever found. Full hieroglyphic text, in- terlinear transliteration, word for word translation, smooth translation. Basic work, for Egyptology, for modern study of psychic matters. Total of 533pp. 6V 2 x 91/4. (Available in U.S. only) 21866-X Pa. $4.95 THE GODS OF THE EGYPTIANS, E. A. Wallis Budge. Never excelled for richness, fullness: all gods, goddesses, demons, mythical figures of Ancient Egypt; their legends, rites, incarnations, variations, powers, etc. Many hieroglyphic texts cited. Over 225 illustrations, plus 6 color plates. Total of 988pp. 6Ys x 9V 4 . (Available in U.S. only) 22055-9, 22056-7 Pa., Two-vol. set $12.00 THE ENGLISH AND SCOTTISH POPULAR BALLADS, Francis J. Child. Monumental, still unsuperseded; all known variants of Child ballads, commentary on origins, literary references, Continental parallels, other features. Added: papers by G. L. Kittredge, W. M. Hart. Total of 2761pp. 6V2 x 9y 4 . 21409-5, 21410-9, 21411-7, 21412-5, 21413-3 Pa., Five-vol. set $37.50 CORAL GARDENS AND THEIR MAGIC, Bronsilaw Malinowski. Classic study of the methods of tilling the soil and of agricultural rites in the Trobriand Islands of Melanesia. Author is one of the most important figures in the field of modern social anthropology. 143 illustrations. Indexes. Total of 911pp. of text. 5% x 8V 4 . (Available in U.S. only) 23597-1 Pa. $12.95 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS THE COMPLETE BOOK OF DOLL MAKING AND COLLECTING, Catherine Christopher. Instructions, patterns for dozens of dolls, from rag doll on up to elaborate, historically accurate figures. Mould faces, sew clothing, make doll houses, etc. Also collecting information. Many illus- trations. 288pp. 6x9. 22066-4 Pa. $4.00 THE DAGUERREOTYPE IN AMERICA, Beaumont Newhall. Wonderful portraits, 1850's townscapes, landscapes; full text plus 104 photographs. The basic book. Enlarged 1976 edition. 272pp. 8% x liy 4 . 23322-7 Pa. $6.00 CRAFTSMAN HOMES, Gustav Stickley. 296 architectural drawings, floor plans, and photographs illustrate 40 different kinds of "Mission-style" homes from The Craftsman (1901-16), voice of American style of simplicity and organic harmony. Thorough coverage of Craftsman idea in text and picture, now collector's item. 224pp. 8y 8 x 11. 23791-5 Pa. $6.00 PEWTER- WORKING: INSTRUCTIONS AND PROJECTS, Burl N. Os- born. & Gordon O. Wilber. Introduction to pewter- working for amateur craftsman. History and characteristics of pewter; tools, materials, step-by- step instructions. Photos, line drawings, diagrams. Total of 160pp. 7y 8 x 10%. 23786-9 Pa. $3.50 THE GREAT CHICAGO FIRE, edited by David Lowe. 10 dramatic, eye- witness accounts of the 1871 disaster, including one of the aftermath and rebuilding, plus 70 contemporary photographs and illustrations of the ruins — courthouse, Palmer House, Great Central Depot, etc. Introduction by David Lowe. 87pp. 8y 4 x 11. 23771-0 Pa. $4.00 SILHOUETTES: A PICTORIAL ARCHIVE OF VARIED ILLUSTRA- TIONS, edited by Carol Belanger Grafton. Over 600 silhouettes from the 18th to 20th centuries include profiles and full figures of men and women, children, birds and animals, groups and scenes, nature, ships, an alphabet. Dozens of uses for commercial artists and craftspeople. 144pp. 8% x 11^4. 23781-8 Pa. $4.00 ANIMALS: 1,419 COPYRIGHT-FREE ILLUSTRATIONS OF MAM- MALS, BIRDS, FISH, INSECTS, ETC., edited by Jim Harter. Clear wood engravings present, in extremely lifelike poses, over 1,000 species of ani- mals. One of the most extensive copyright-free pictorial sourcebooks of its kind. Captions. Index. 284pp. 9 x 12. 23766-4 Pa. $7.50 INDIAN DESIGNS FROM ANCIENT ECUADOR, Frederick W. Shaffer. 282 original designs by pre-Columbian Indians of Ecuador (500-1500 A.D.). Designs include people, mammals, birds, reptiles, fish, plants, heads, geo- metric designs. Use as is or alter for advertising, textiles, leathercraft, etc. Introduction. 95pp. 8% x liy 4 . 23764-8 Pa. $3.50 SZIGETI ON THE VIOLIN, Joseph Szigeti. Genial, loosely structured tour by premier violinist, featuring a pleasant mixture of reminiscenes, insights into great music and musicians, innumerable tips for practicing violinists. 385 musical passages. 256pp. 5% x 8y 4 . 23763-X Pa. $3.50 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS TONE POEMS, SERIES II: TILL EULENSPIEGELS LUSTIGE STREICHE, ALSO SPRACH ZARATHUSTRA, AND EIN HELDEN- LEBEN, Richard Strauss. Three important orchestral works, including very popular Till Eulenspie gel's Marry Pranks, reproduced in full score from original editions. Study score. 315pp. 9% x 12%. (Available in U.S. only) 23755-9 Pa. $7.50 TONE POEMS, SERIES I: DON JUAN, TOD UND VERKLARUNG AND DON QUIXOTE, Richard Strauss. Three of the most often per- formed and recorded works in entire orchestral repertoire, reproduced in full score from original editions. Study score. 286pp. 9% x 12%. (Avail- able in U.S. only) 23754-0 Pa. $7.50 11 LATE STRING QUARTETS, Franz Joseph Haydn. The form which Haydn defined and "brought to perfection." (Grove's). 11 string quartets in complete score, his last and his best. The first in a projected series of the complete Haydn string quartets. Reliable modern Eulenberg edition, otherwise difficult to obtain. 320pp. 8% x 11%. (Available in U.S. only) 23753-2 Pa. $6.95 FOURTH, FIFTH AND SIXTH SYMPHONIES IN FULL SCORE, Peter Ilyitch Tchaikovsky. Complete orchestral scores of Symphony No. 4 in F Minor, Op. 36; Symphony No. 5 in E Minor, Op. 64; Symphony No. 6 in B Minor, "Pathetique," Op. 74. Bretikopf & Hartel eds. Study score. 480pp. 9% x 12V 4 . 23861-X Pa. $10.95 THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO: COMPLETE SCORE, Wolfgang A. Mozart. Finest comic opera ever written. Full score, not to be confused with piano renderings. Peters edition. Study score. 448pp. 9% x 12%. (Available in U.S. only) 23751-6 Pa. $11.95 "IMAGE" ON THE ART AND EVOLUTION OF THE FILM, edited by Marshall Deutelbaum. Pioneering book brings together for first time 38 groundbreaking articles on early silent films from Image and 263 illustra- tions newly shot from rare prints in the collection of the International Museum of Photography. A landmark work. Index. 256pp. 8% x 11. 23777-X Pa. $8.95 AROUND-THE-WORLD COOKY BOOK, Lois Lintner Sumption and Marguerite Lintner Ashbrook. 373 cooky and frosting recipes from 28 countries (America, Austria, China, Russia, Italy, etc.) include Viennese kisses, rice wafers, London strips, lady fingers, hony, sugar spice, maple cookies, etc. Clear instructions. All tested. 38 drawings. 182pp. 5% x 8. 23802-4 Pa. $2.50 THE ART NOUVEAU STYLE, edited by Roberta Waddell. 579 rare photographs, not available elsewhere, of works in jewelry, metalwork, glass, ceramics, textiles, architecture and furniture by 175 artists — Mucha, Seguy, Lalique, Tiffany, Gaudin, Hohlwein, Saarinen, and many others. 288pp. 8% x 11%. 23515-7 Pa. $6.95 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS THE AMERICAN SENATOR, Anthony Trollope. Little known, long un- available Trollope novel on a grand scale. Here are humorous comment on American vs. English culture, and stunning portrayal of a heroine/ villainess. Superb evocation of Victorian village life. 561pp. 5% x 8%. 23801-6 Pa. $6.00 WAS IT MURDER? James Hilton. The author of Lost Horizon and Good- bye, Mr. Chips wrote one detective novel (under a pen-name) which was quickly forgotten and virtually lost, even at the height of Hilton's fame. This edition brings it back — a finely crafted public school puzzle resplen- dent with Hilton's stylish atmosphere. A thoroughly English thriller by the creator of Shangri-la. 252pp. 5% x 8. (Available in U.S. only) 23774-5 Pa. $3.00 CENTRAL PARK: A PHOTOGRAPHIC GUIDE, Victor Laredo and Henry Hope Reed. 121 superb photographs show dramatic views of Central Park: Bethesda Fountain, Cleopatra's Needle, Sheep Meadow, the Blockhouse, plus people engaged in many park activities: ice skating, bike riding, etc. Captions by former Curator of Central Park, Henry Hope Reed, provide historical view, changes, etc. Also photos of N.Y. landmarks on park's periphery. 96pp. 8V 2 x 11. 23750-8 Pa. $4.50 NANTUCKET IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY, Clay Lancaster. ISO rare photographs, stereographs, maps, drawings and floor plans recreate unique American island society. Authentic scenes of shipwreck, light- houses, streets, homes are arranged in geographic sequence to provide walking-tour guide to old Nantucket existing today. Introduction, captions. 160pp. 8% x 113/ 4 . 23747-8 Pa. $6.95 STONE AND MAN: A PHOTOGRAPHIC EXPLORATION, Andreas Feininger. 106 photographs by Life photographer Feininger portray man's deep passion for stone through the ages. Stonehenge-like megaliths, forti- fied towns, sculpted marble and crumbling tenements show textures, beau- ties, fascination. 128pp. 9y 4 x 103/ 4 . 23756-7 Pa. $5.95 CIRCLES, A MATHEMATICAL VIEW, D. Pedoe. Fundamental aspects of college geometry, non-Euclidean geometry, and other branches of mathe- matics: representing circle by point. Poincare model, isoperimetric prop- erty, etc. Stimulating recreational reading. 66 figures. 96pp. 5% x 8V4. 63698-4 Pa. $2.75 THE DISCOVERY OF NEPTUNE, Morton Grosser. Dramatic scientific history of the investigations leading up to the actual discovery of the eighth planet of our solar system. Lucid, well-researched book by well- known historian of science. 172pp. 5% x 8%. 23726-5 Pa. $3.00 THE DEVIL'S DICTIONARY. Ambrose Bierce. Barbed, bitter, brilliant witticisms in the form of a dictionary. Best, most ferocious satire America has produced. 145pp. 5% x 8Y2. 20487-1 Pa. $1.75 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS HISTORY OF BACTERIOLOGY, William Bulloch. The only compre- hensive history of bacteriology from the beginnings through the 19th cen- tury. Special emphasis is given to biography-Leeuwenhoek, etc. Brief accounts of 350 bacteriologists form a separate section. No clearer, fuller study, suitable to scientists and general readers, has yet been written. 52 illustrations. 448pp. 5% x 8y 4 . 23761-3 Pa. $6.50 THE COMPLETE NONSENSE OF EDWARD LEAR, Edward Lear. All nonsense limericks, zany alphabets, Owl and Pussycat, songs, nonsense botany, etc., illustrated by Lear. Total of 321pp. 5% x 8^. (Available in U.S. only) 20167-8 Pa. $3.00 INGENIOUS MATHEMATICAL PROBLEMS AND METHODS, Louis A. Graham. Sophisticated material from Graham Dial, applied and pure; stresses solution methods. Logic, number theory, networks, inversions, etc. 237pp. 5% x 8y 2 . 20545-2 Pa. $3.50 BEST MATHEMATICAL PUZZLES OF SAM LOYD, edited by Martin Gardner. Bizarre, original, whimsical puzzles by America's greatest puzzler. From fabulously rare Cyclopedia, including famous 14-15 puzzles, the Horse of a Different Color, 115 more. Elementary math. 150 illustrations. 167pp. 5% x 8Y 2 . 20498-7 Pa. $2.50 THE BASIS OF COMBINATION IN CHESS, J. du Mont. Easy-to-follow, instructive book on elements of combination play, with chapters on each piece and every powerful combination team — two knights, bishop and knight, rook and bishop, etc. 250 diagrams. 218pp. 5% x 8Y2. (Available in U.S. only) 23644-7 Pa. $3.50 MODERN CHESS STRATEGY, Ludek Pachman. The use of the queen, the active king, exchanges, pawn play, the center, weak squares, etc. Section on rook alone worth price of the book. Stress on the moderns. Often considered the most important book on strategy. 314pp. 5% x 8^. 20290-9 Pa. $3.50 LASKER'S MANUAL OF CHESS, Dr. Emanuel Lasker. Great world champion offers very thorough coverage of all aspects of chess. Combina- tions, position play, openings, end game, aesthetics of chess, philosophy of struggle, much more. Filled with analyzed games. 390pp. 5% x 8Y2. 20640-8 Pa. $4.00 500 MASTER GAMES OF CHESS, S. Tartakower, J. du Mont. Vast collection of great chess games from 1798-1938, with much material no- where else readily available. Fully annoted, arranged by opening for easier study. 664pp. 5% x 8Y2. 23208-5 Pa. $6.00 A GUIDE TO CHESS ENDINGS, Dr. Max Euwe, David Hooper. One of the finest modern works on chess endings. Thorough analysis of the most frequently encountered endings by former world champion. 331 examples, each with diagram. 248pp. 5% x 8Y2. 23332-4 Pa. $3.50 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS SECOND PIATIGORSKY CUP, edited by Isaac Kashdan. One of the greatest tournament books ever produced in the English language. All 90 games of the 1966 tournament, annotated by players, most annotated by both players. Features Petrosian, Spassky, Fischer, Larsen, six others. 228pp. 5% x 8%. 23572-6 Pa. $3.50 ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CARD TRICKS, revised and edited by Jean Hugard. How to perform over 600 card tricks, devised by the world's greatest magicians: impromptus, spelling tricks, key cards, using special packs, much, much more. Additional chapter on card technique. 66 illustrations. 402pp. 5% x 8V 2 . (Available in U.S. only) 21252-1 Pa. $3.95 MAGIC: STAGE ILLUSIONS, SPECIAL EFFECTS AND TRICK PHO- TOGRAPHY, Albert A. Hopkins, Henry R. Evans. One of the great classics; fullest, most authorative explanation of vanishing lady, levitations, scores of other great stage effects. Also small magic, automata, stunts. 446 illus- trations. 556pp. 5% x 8Y2. 23344-8 Pa. $5.00 THE SECRETS OF HOUDINI, J. C. Cannell. Classic study of Houdini's incredible magic, exposing closely-kept professional secrets and revealing, in general terms, the whole art of stage magic. 67 illustrations. 279pp. 5% x 8Y2. 22913-0 Pa. $3.00 HOFFMANN'S MODERN MAGIC, Professor Hoffmann. One of the best, and best-known, magicians' manuals of the past century. Hundreds of tricks from card tricks and simple sleight of hand to elaborate illusions involving construction of complicated machinery. 332 illustrations. 563pp. 5% x 8Y2. 23623-4 Pa. $6.00 MADAME PRUNIER'S FISH COOKERY BOOK, Mme. S. B. Prunier. More than 1000 recipes from world famous Prunier's of Paris and London, specially adapted here for American kitchen. Grilled tournedos with anchovy butter, Lobster a la Bordelaise, Prunier's prized desserts, more. Glossary. 340pp. 5% x 8Y2. (Available in U.S. only) 22679-4 Pa. $3.00 FRENCH COUNTRY COOKING FOR AMERICANS, Louis Diat. 500 easy-to-make, authentic provincial recipes compiled by former head chef at New York's Fitz-Carlton Hotel: onion soup, lamb stew, potato pie, more. 309pp. 5% x 8Y2. 23665-X Pa. $3.95 SAUCES, FRENCH AND FAMOUS, Louis Diat. Complete book gives over 200 specific recipes: bechamel, Bordelaise, hollandaise, Cumberland, apri- cot, etc. Author was one of this century's finest chefs, originator of vichyssoise and many other dishes. Index. 156pp. 5% x 8. 23663-3 Pa. $2.50 TOLL HOUSE TRIED AND TRUE RECIPES, Ruth Graves Wakefield. Authentic recipes from the famous Mass. restaurant: popovers, veal and ham loaf, Toll House baked beans, chocolate cake crumb pudding, much more. Many helpful hints. Nearly 700 recipes. Index. 376pp. 5% x 8Vfe. 23560-2 Pa. $4.00 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS "OSCAR" OF THE WALDORF'S COOKBOOK, Oscar Tschirky. Famous American chef reveals 3455 recipes that made Waldorf great; cream of French, German, American cooking, in all categories. Full instructions, easy home use. 1896 edition. 907pp. 6% x 9%. 20790-0 Clothbd. $15.00 COOKING WITH BEER, Carole Fahy. Beer has as superb an effect on food as wine, and at fraction of cost. Over 250 recipes for appetizers, soups, main dishes, desserts, breads, etc. Index. 144pp. 5% x 8V2. (Avail- able in U.S. only) 23661-7 Pa. $2.50 STEWS AND RAGOUTS, Kay Shaw Nelson. This international cookbook offers wide range of 108 recipes perfect for everyday, special occasions, meals-in-themselves, main dishes. Economical, nutritious, easy-to-prepare : goulash, Irish stew, boeuf bourguignon, etc. Index. 134pp. 5% x 8Y2. 23662-5 Pa. $2.50 DELICIOUS MAIN COURSE DISHES, Marian Tracy. Main courses are the most important part of any meal. These 200 nutritious, economical recipes from around the world make every meal a delight. "I . . . have found it so useful in my own household," — N.Y. Times. Index. 219pp. 5% x 8Y2. 23664-1 Pa. $3.00 FIVE ACRES AND INDEPENDENCE, Maurice G. Kains. Great back- to-the-land classic explains basics of self-sufficient farming: economics, plants, crops, animals, orchards, soils, land selection, host of other neces- sary things. Do not confuse with skimpy faddist literature; Kains was one of America's greatest agriculturalists. 95 illustrations. 397pp. 5% x 8V2. 20974-1 Pa. $3.50 A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR THE BEGINNING FARMER, Herbert Jacobs. Basic, extremely useful first book for anyone thinking about moving to the country and starting a farm. Simpler than Kains, with greater em- phasis on country living in general. 246pp. 5% x 8Y2. 23675-7 Pa. $3.50 HARDY BULBS, Louise Beebe Wilder. Fullest, most thorough book on plants grown from bulbs, corms, rhizomes and tubers. 40 genera and 335 species covered: selecting, cultivating, naturalizing; name, origins, bloom- ing season, when to plant, special requirements. 127 illustrations. 432pp. 5% x 8Y2. 23102-X Pa. $4.50 A GARDEN OF PLEASANT FLOWERS (PARADISI IN SOLE: PARA- DISUS TERRESTRIS), John Parkinson. Complete, unabridged reprint of first (1629) edition of earliest great English book on gardens and garden- ing. More than 1000 plants & flowers of Elizabethan, Jacobean garden fully described, most with woodcut illustrations. Botanically very reliable, a "speaking garden" of exceeding charm. 812 illustrations. 628pp. 8Y2 x 12y 4 . 23392-8 Clothbd. $25.00 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS MUSHROOMS, EDIBLE AND OTHERWISE, Miron E. Hard. Profusely illustrated, very useful guide to over 500 species of mushrooms growing in the Midwest and East. Nomenclature updated to 1976. 505 illustrations. 628pp. 6 y 2 x 91/4. 23309-X Pa. $7.95 AN ILLUSTRATED FLORA OF THE NORTHERN UNITED STATES AND CANADA, Nathaniel L. Britton, Addison Brown. Encyclopedic work covers 4666 species, ferns on up. Everything. Full botanical information, illustration for each. This earlier edition is preferred by many to more recent revisions. 1913 edition. Over 4000 illustrations, total of 2087pp. 6% x 9%. 22642-5, 22643-3, 22644-1 Pa., Three-vol. set $24.00 MANUAL OF THE GRASSES OF THE UNITED STATES, A. S. Hitch- cock, U.S. Dept. of Agriculture. The basic study of American grasses, both indigenous and escapes, cultivated and wild. Over 1400 species. Full descriptions, information. Over 1100 maps, illustrations. Total of 1051pp. 53/ 8 x 8Y2. 22717-0, 22718-9 Pa., Two-vol. set $12.00 THE CACTACEAE,, Nathaniel L. Britton, John N. Rose. Exhaustive, definitive. Every cactus in the world. Full botanical descriptions. Thorough statement of nomenclatures, habitat, detailed finding keys. The one book needed by every cactus enthusiast. Over 1275 illustrations. Total of 1080pp. 8 x 10V4. 21191-6, 21192-4 Clothbd., Two-vol. set $35.00 AMERICAN MEDICINAL PLANTS, Charles F. Millspaugh. Full descrip- tions, 180 plants covered: history; physical description; methods of prepa- ration with all chemical constituents extracted; all claimed curative or adverse effects. 180 full-page plates. Classification table. 804pp. 6V2 x 9%. 23034-1 Pa. $10.00 A MODERN HERBAL, Margaret Grieve. Much the fullest, most exact, most useful compilation of herbal material. Gigantic alphabetical encyclo- pedia, from aconite to zedoary, gives botanical information, medical prop- erties, folklore, economic uses, and much else. Indispensable to serious reader. 161 illustrations. 888pp. 6V2 x 9%. (Available in U.S. only) 22798-7, 22799-5 Pa., Two-vol. set $11.00 THE HERBAL or GENERAL HISTORY OF PLANTS, John Gerard. The 1633 edition revised and enlarged by Thomas Johnson. Containing almost 2850 plant descriptions and 2705 superb illustrations, Gerard's Herbal is a monumental work, the book all modern English herbals are derived from, the one herbal every serious enthusiast should have in its entirety. Original editions are worth perhaps $750. 1678pp. 8 x /2 x 12^4. 23147-X Clothbd. $50.00 MANUAL OF THE TREES OF NORTH AMERICA, Charles S. Sargent. The basic survey of every native tree and tree-like shrub, 717 species in all. Extremely full descriptions, information on habitat, growth, locales, economics, etc. Necessary to every serious tree lover. Over 100 finding keys. 783 illustrations. Total of 986pp. 5% x 8Y2. 20277-1, 20278-X Pa., Two-vol. set $10.00 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS AMERICAN BIRD ENGRAVINGS, Alexander Wilson et al. All 76 plates, from Wilson's American Ornithology (1808-14), most important ornitho- logical work before Audubon, plus 27 plates from the supplement ( 1825-33) by Charles Bonaparte. Over 250 birds portrayed. 8 plates also reproduced in full color. 111pp. 9% x 12 y 2 . 23195-X Pa. $6.00 CRUICKSHANK'S PHOTOGRAPHS OF BIRDS OF AMERICA, Allan D. Cruickshank. Great ornithologist, photographer presents 177 closeups, groupings, panoramas, Sightings, etc., of about 150 different birds. Ex- panded Wings in the Wilderness. Introduction by Helen G. Cruickshank. 191pp. 8V 4 x 11. 23497-5 Pa. $6.00 AMERICAN WILDLIFE AND PLANTS, A. C. Martin, et al. Describes food habits of more than 1000 species of mammals, birds, fish. Special treatment of important food plants. Over 300 illustrations. 500pp. 5% x 8Vfe. 20793-5 Pa. $4.95 THE PEOPLE CALLED SHAKERS, Edward D. Andrews. Lifetime of research, definitive study of Shakers: origins, beliefs, practices, dances, social organization, furniture and crafts, impact on 19th-century USA, present heritage. Indispensable to student of American history, collector. 33 illustrations. 351pp. 5% x 8%. 21081-2 Pa. $4.00 OLD NEW YORK IN EARLY PHOTOGRAPHS, Mary Black. New York City as it was in 1853-1901, through 196 wonderful photographs from N.-Y. Historical Society. Great Blizzard, Lincoln's funeral procession, great buildings. 228pp. 9 x 12. 22907-6 Pa. $7.95 MR. LINCOLN'S CAMERA MAN: MATHEW BRADY, Roy Meredith. Over 300 Brady photos reproduced directly from original negatives, photos. Jackson, Webster, Grant, Lee, Carnegie, Barnum; Lincoln; Battle Smoke, Death of Rebel Sniper, Atlanta Just After Capture. Lively com- mentary. 368pp. 8% x 11V 4 . 23021-X Pa. $6.95 TRAVELS OF WILLIAM BARTRAM, William Bartram. From 1773-8, Bartram explored Northern Florida, Georgia, Carolinas, and reported on wild life, plants, Indians, early settlers. Basic account for period, enter- taining reading. Edited by Mark Van Doren. 13 illustrations. 141pp. 5% x8Y 2 . 20013-2 Pa. $4.50 THE GENTLEMAN AND CABINET MAKER'S DIRECTOR, Thomas Chippendale. Full reprint, 1762 style book, most influential of all time; chairs, tables, sofas, mirrors, cabinets, etc. 200 plates, plus 24 photographs of surviving pieces. 249pp. 9 7 / 8 x 12%. 21601-2 Pa. $6.50 AMERICAN CARRIAGES, SLEIGHS, SULKIES AND CARTS, edited by Don H. Berkebile. 168 Victorian illustrations from catalogues, trade journals, fully captioned. Useful for artists. Author is Assoc. Curator, Div. of Trans- portation of Smithsonian Institution. 168pp. 8Y2 x 9Vfc. 23328-6 Pa. $5.00 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS YUCATAN BEFORE AND AFTER THE CONQUEST, Diego de Landa. First English translation of basic book in Maya studies, the only significant account of Yucatan written in the early post-Conquest era. Translated by distinguished Maya scholar William Gates. Appendices, introduction, 4 maps and over 120 illustrations added by translator. 162pp. 5% x 8V2. 23622-6 Pa. $3.00 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO, Alfred R. Wallace. Spirited travel account by one of founders of modern biology. Touches on zoology, botany, ethnog- raphy, geography, and geology. 62 illustrations, maps. 515pp. 5% x 8Y2. 20187-2 Pa. $6.95 THE DISCOVERY OF THE TOMB OF TUTANKHAMEN, Howard Carter, A. C. Mace. Accompany Carter in the thrill of discovery, as ruined passage suddenly reveals unique, untouched, fabulously rich tomb. Fascin- ating account, with 106 illustrations. New introduction by J. M. White. Total of 382pp. 5% x 8V2. (Available in U.S. only) 23500-9 Pa. $4.00 THE WORLD'S GREATEST SPEECHES, edited by Lewis Copeland and Lawrence W. Lamm. Vast collection of 278 speeches from Greeks up to present. Powerful and effective models; unique look at history. Revised to 1970. Indices. 842pp. 5% x 8V 2 . 20468-5 Pa. $6.95 THE 100 GREATEST ADVERTISEMENTS, Julian Watkins. The priceless ingredient; His master's voice; 99 44/100% pure; over 100 others. How they were written, their impact, etc. Remarkable record. 130 illustrations. 233pp. 7y 8 x 10 3/5. 20540-1 Pa. $5.00 CRUICKSHANK PRINTS FOR HAND COLORING, George Cruickshank. 18 illustrations, one side of a page, on fine-quality paper suitable for water- colors. Caricatures of people in society (c. 1820) full of trenchant wit. Very large format. 32pp. 11 x 16. 23684-6 Pa. $4.50 THIRTY-TWO COLOR POSTCARDS OF TWENTIETH-CENTURY AMERICAN ,ART, Whitney Museum of American Art. Reproduced in full color in postcard form are 31 art works and one shot of the museum. Calder, Hopper, Rauschenberg, others. Detachable. 16pp. 8V4 x 11. 23629-3 Pa. $2.50 MUSIC OF THE SPHERES: THE MATERIAL UNIVERSE FROM ATOM TO QUASAR SIMPLY EXPLAINED, Guy Murchie. Planets, stars, geology, atoms, radiation, relativity, quantum theory, light, antimatter, similar topics. 319 figures. 664pp. 5% x 8%. 21809-0, 21810-4 Pa., Two-vol. set $10.00 EINSTEIN'S THEORY OF RELATIVITY, Max Born. Finest semi-technical account; covers Einstein, Lorentz, Minkowski, and others, with much de- tail, much explanation of ideas and math not readily available elsewhere on this level. For student, non-specialist. 376pp. 5% x 8Y2. 60769-0 Pa. $4.00 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS PRINCIPLES OF ORCHESTRATION, Nikolay Rimsky-Korsakov. Great classical orchestrator provides fundamentals of tonal resonance, progression of parts, voice and orchestra, tutti effects, much else in major document. 330pp. of musical excerpts. 489pp. 6V 2 x 9V 4 . 21266-1 Pa. $6.00 TRISTAN UND ISOLDE, Richard Wagner. Full orchestral score with complete instrumentation. Do not confuse with piano reduction. Com- mentary by Felix Mottl, great Wagnerian conductor and scholar. Study score. 655pp. 8% x 11. 22915-7 Pa. $12.50 REQUIEM IN FULL SCORE, Giuseppe Verdi. Immensely popular with choral groups and music lovers. Republication of edition published by C. F. Peters, Leipzig, n. d. German frontmaker in English translation. Glossary. Text in Latin. Study score. 204pp. 9% x 12V4. 23682-X Pa. $6.00 COMPLETE CHAMBER MUSIC FOR STRINGS, Felix Mendelssohn. All of Mendelssohn's chamber music: Octet, 2 Quintets, 6 Quartets, and Four Pieces for String Quartet. (Nothing with piano is included). Complete works edition (1874-7). Study score. 283 pp. 9% x 12 V 4 . 23679-X Pa. $6.95 POPULAR SONGS OF NINETEENTH-CENTURY AMERICA, edited by Richard Jackson. 64 most important songs: "Old Oaken Bucket," "Arkansas Traveler," "Yellow Rose of Texas," etc. Authentic original sheet music, full introduction and commentaries. 290pp. 9 x 12. 23270-0 Pa. $6.00 COLLECTED PIANO WORKS, Scott Joplin. Edited by Vera Brodsky Lawrence. Practically all of Joplin's piano works — rags, two-steps, marches, waltzes, etc., 51 works in all. Extensive introduction by Rudi Blesh. Total of 345pp. 9 x 12. 23106-2 Pa. $13.50 BASIC PRINCIPLES OF CLASSICAL BALLET, Agrippina Vaganova. Great Russian theoretician, teacher explains methods for teaching classical ballet; incorporates best from French, Italian, Russian schools. 118 illus- trations. 175pp. 5% x 8V 2 . 22036-2 Pa. $2.00 CHINESE CHARACTERS, L. Wieger. Rich analysis of 2300 characters according to traditional systems into primitives. Historical-semantic analysis to phonetics (Classical Mandarin) and radicals. 820pp. 6% x 9Va. 21321-8 Pa. $8.95 EGYPTIAN LANGUAGE: EASY LESSONS IN EGYPTIAN HIERO- GLYPHICS, E. A. Wallis Budge. Foremost Egyptologist offers Egyptian grammar, explanation of hieroglyphics, many reading texts, dictionary of symbols. 246pp. 5 x 7^2. (Available in U.S. only) 21394-3 Clothbd. $7.50 AN ETYMOLOGICAL DICTIONARY OF MODERN ENGLISH, Ernest Weekley. Richest, fullest work, by foremost British lexicographer. Detailed word histories. Inexhaustible. Do not confuse this with Concise Etymologi- cal Dictionary, which is abridged. Total of 856pp. 6V2 x 9%. 21873-2, 21874-0 Pa., Two-vol. set $10.00 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS HOUSEHOLD STORIES BY THE BROTHERS GRIMM. All the great Grimm stories: "Rumpelstiltskin," "Snow White," "Hansel and Gretel/' etc., with 114 illustrations by Walter Crane. 269pp. 5% x 8%. 21080-4 Pa. $3.00 SLEEPING BEAUTY, illustrated by Arthur Rackham. Perhaps the fullest, most delightful version ever, told by C. S. Evans. Rackham's best work. 49 illustrations. 110pp. 7% x 10%. 22756-1 Pa. $2.00 AMERICAN FAIRY TALES, L. Frank Baum. Young cowboy lassoes Father Time; dummy in Mr. Floman's department store window comes to life; and 10 other fairy tales. 41 illustrations by N. P. Hall, Harry Kennedy, Ike Morgan, and Ralph Gardner. 209pp. 5% x 8Y2. 23643-9 Pa. $3.00 THE WONDERFUL WIZARD OF OZ, L. Frank Baum. Facsimile in full color of America's finest children's classic. Introduction by Martin Gardner. 143 illustrations by W. W. Denslow. 267pp. 5% x 8Y2. 20691-2 Pa. $3.50 THE TALE OF PETER RABBIT, Beatrix Potter. The inimitable Peter's terrifying adventure in Mr. McGregor's garden, with all 27 wonderful, full-color Potter illustrations. 55pp. 4% x 5V2. (Available in U.S. only) 22827-4 Pa. $1.10 THE STORY OF KING ARTHUR AND HIS KNIGHTS, Howard Pyle. Finest children's version of life of King Arthur. 48 illustrations by Pyle. 131pp. 6V 8 x 9y 4 . 21445-1 Pa. $4.00 CARUSO'S CARICATURES, Enrico Caruso. Great tenor's remarkable caricatures of self, fellow musicians, composers, others. Toscanini, Puccini, Farrar, etc. Impish, cutting, insightful. 473 illustrations. Preface by M. Sisca. 217pp. 8% x liy 4 . 23528-9 Pa. $6.00 PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF A PILGRIMAGE TO ALMADINAH AND MECCAH, Richard Burton. Great travel classic by remarkably colorful personality. Burton, disguised as a Moroccan, visited sacred shrines of Islam, narrowly escaping death. Wonderful observations of Islamic life, customs, personalities. 47 illustrations. Total of 959pp. 5% x 8V2. 21217-3, 21218-1 Pa., Two-vol. set $10.00 INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN YUCATAN, John L. Stephens. Classic (1843) exploration of jungles of Yucatan, looking for evidences of Maya civilization. Travel adventures, Mexican and Indian culture, etc. Total of 669pp. 53/ 8 x 8Y2. 20926-1, 20927-X Pa., Two-vol. set $6.50 AMERICAN LITERARY AUTOGRAPHS FROM WASHINGTON IRVING TO HENRY JAMES, Herbert Cahoon, et al. Letters, poems, manuscripts of Hawthorne, Thoreau, Twain, Alcott, Whitman, 67 other prominent American authors. Reproductions, full transcripts and commentary. Plus checklist of all American Literary Autographs in The Pierpont Morgan Library. Printed on exceptionally high-quality paper. 136 illustrations. 212pp. 9y 8 x 12y 4 . 23548-3 Pa. $7.95 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS UNCLE SILAS, J. Sheridan LeFanu. Victorian Gothic mystery novel, con- sidered by many best of period, even better than Collins or Dickens. Wonderful psychological terror. Introduction by Frederick Shroyer. 436pp. 5% x 8V 2 . 21715-9 Pa. $4.00 JURGEN, James Branch Cabell. The great erotic fantasy of the 1920's that delighted thousands, shocked thousands more. Full final text, Lane edition with 13 plates by Frank Pape. 346pp. 5% x 8%. 23507-6 Pa. $4.00 THE CLAVERINGS, Anthony Trollope. Major novel, chronicling aspects of British Victorian society, personalities. Reprint of Cornhill serialization, 16 plates by M. Edwards; first reprint of full text. Introduction by Norman Donaldson. 412pp. 5% x 8%. 23464-9 Pa. $5.00 KEPT IN THE DARK, Anthony Trollope. Unusual short novel about Victorian morality and abnormal psychology by the great English author. Probably the first American publication. Frontispiece by Sir John Millais. 92pp. 6% x 9V 4 . 23609-9 Pa. $2.50 RALPH THE HEIR, Anthony Trollope. Forgotten tale of illegitimacy, inheritance. Master novel of Trollope's later years. Victorian country es- tates, clubs, Parliament, fox hunting, world of fully realized characters. Reprint of 1871 edition. 12 illustrations by F. A. Faser. 434pp. of text. 5% x 8V2. 23642-0 Pa. $4.50 YEKL and THE IMPORTED BRIDEGROOM AND OTHER STORIES OF THE NEW YORK GHETTO, Abraham Cahan. Film Hester Street based on Yekl (1896). Novel, other stories among first about Jewish immi- grants of N.Y.'s East Side. Highly praised by W. D. Howells — Cahan "a new star of realism." New introduction by Bernard G. Richards. 240pp. 5% x 8V2. 22427-9 Pa. $3.50 THE HIGH PLACE, James Branch Cabell. Great fantasy writer's en- chanting comedy of disenchantment set in 18th-century France. Con- sidered by some critics to be even better than his famous Jurgen. 10 illus- trations and numerous vignettes by noted fantasy artist Frank C. Pape. 320pp. 53/8 x 8V2. 23670-6 Pa. $4.00 ALICE'S ADVENTURES UNDER GROUND, Lewis Carroll. Facsimile of ms. Carroll gave Alice Liddell in 1864. Different in many ways from final Alice. Handlettered, illustrated by Carroll. Introduction by Martin Gardner. 128pp. 5% x 8%. 21482-6 Pa. $2.00 FAVORITE ANDREW LANG FAIRY TALE BOOKS IN MANY COLORS, Andrew Lang. The four Lang favorites in a boxed set — the complete Red, Green, Yellow and Blue Fairy Books. 164 stories; 439 illus- trations by Lancelot Speed, Henry Ford and G. P. Jacomb Hood. Total of about 1500pp. 5% x 8y 2 . 23407-X Boxed set, Pa. $14.00 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS THE EARLY WORK OF AUBREY BEARDSLEY, Aubrey Beardsley. 157 plates, 2 in color: Marion Lescaut, Madame Bovary, Morte Darthur, Salome, other. Introduction by H. Marillier. 182pp. 8V 8 x 11. 21816-3 Pa. $4.50 THE LATER WORK OF AUBREY BEARDSLEY, Aubrey Beardsley. Exotic masterpieces of full maturity: Venus and Tannhauser, Lysistrata, Rape of the Lock, Volpone, Savoy material, etc. 174 plates, 2 in color. 186pp. 8y 8 x 11. 21817-1 Pa. $4.50 THOMAS NAST'S CHRISTMAS DRAWINGS, Thomas Nast. Almost all Christmas drawings by creator of image of Santa Claus as we know it, and one of America's foremost illustrators and political cartoonists. 66 illustrations. 3 illustrations in color on covers. 96pp. 8% x 11*4. 23660-9 Pa. $3.50 THE DORE ILLUSTRATIONS FOR DANTE'S DIVINE COMEDY, Gustave Dore. All 135 plates from Inferno, Purgatory, Paradise; fantastic tortures, infernal landscapes, celestial wonders. Each plate with appropriate (translated) verses. 141pp. 9 x 12. 23231-X Pa. $4.50 DORE'S ILLUSTRATIONS FOR RABELAIS, Gustave Dore. 252 striking illustrations of Gargantua and Pantagruel books by foremost 19th-century illustrator. Including 60 plates, 192 delightful smaller illustrations. 153pp. 9 x 12. 23656-0 Pa. $5.00 LONDON: A PILGRIMAGE, Gustave Dore, Blanchard Jerrold. Squalor, riches, misery, beauty of mid-Victorian metropolis; 55 wonderful plates, 125 other illustrations, full social, cultural text by Jerrold. 191pp. of text. 9% x 12%. 22306-X Pa. $6.00 THE RIME OF THE ANCIENT MARINER, Gustave Dore, S. T. Coleridge. Dore's finest work, 34 plates capture moods, subtleties of poem. Full text. Introduction by Millicent Rose. 77pp. 9*4 x 12. 22305-1 Pa. $3.00 THE DORE BIBLE ILLUSTRATIONS, Gustave Dore. All wonderful, de- tailed plates: Adam and Eve, Flood, Babylon, Life of Jesus, etc. Brief King James text with each plate. Introduction by Millicent Rose. 241 plates. 241pp. 9 x 12. 23004-X Pa. $5.00 THE COMPLETE ENGRAVINGS, ETCHINGS AND DRYPOINTS OF ALBRECHT DURER. "Knight, Death and Devil"; "Melencolia," and more — all Diirer's known works in all three media, including 6 works formerly attributed to him. 120 plates. 235pp. 8% x 11%. 22851-7 Pa. $6.50 MAXIMILIAN'S TRIUMPHAL ARCH, Albrecht Diirer and others. In- credible monument of woodcut art: 8 foot high elaborate arch — heraldic figures, humans, battle scenes, fantastic elements — that you can assemble yourself. Printed on one side, layout for assembly. 143pp. 11 x 16. 21451-6 Pa. $5.00 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS THE COMPLETE WOODCUTS OF ALBRECHT DURER, edited by Dr. W. Kurth. 346 in all: "Old Testament," "St. Jerome," "Passion," "Life of Virgin," Apocalypse," many others. Introduction by Campbell Dodgson. 285pp. 8Y2 x 12 y 4 . 21097-9 Pa. $6.95 DRAWINGS OF ALBRECHT DURER, edited by Heinrich Wolfflin. 81 plates show development from youth to full style. Many favorites; many new. Introduction by Alfred Werner. 96pp. 8% x 11. 22352-3 Pa. $4.00 THE HUMAN FIGURE, Albrecht Diirer. Experiments in various tech- niques — stereometric, progressive proportional, and others. Also life studies that rank among finest ever done. Complete reprinting of Dresden Sketch- book. 170 plates. 355pp. 8% x liy 4 . 21042-1 Pa. $6.95 OF THE JUST SHAPING OF LETTERS, Albrecht Diirer. Renaissance artist explains design of Roman majuscules by geometry, also Gothic lower and capitals. Grolier Club edition. 43pp. 7% x 10 3 / 4 21306-4 Pa. $2.50 TEN BOOKS ON ARCHITECTURE, Vitruvius. The most important book ever written on architecture. Early Roman aesthetics, technology, classical orders, site selection, all other aspects. Stands behind everything since. Morgan translation. 331pp. 5% x 8y 2 . 20645-9 Pa. $3.75 THE FOUR BOOKS OF ARCHITECTURE, Andrea Palladio. 16th-century classic responsible for Palladian movement and style. Covers classical archi- tectural remains, Renaissance revivals, classical orders, etc. 1738 Ware English edition. Introduction by A. Placzek. 216 plates. 110pp. of text. 9y 2 x 123/ 4 . 21308-0 Pa. $7.50 HORIZONS, Norman Bel Geddes. Great industrialist stage designer, "father of streamlining," on application of aesthetics to transportation, amusement, architecture, etc. 1932 prophetic account; function, theory, specific projects. 222 illustrations. 312pp. 7y 8 x 103/ 4 . 23514-9 Pa. $6.95 FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT'S FALLINGWATER, Donald Hoffmann. Full, illustrated story of conception and building of Wright's masterwork at Bear Run, Pa. 100 photographs of site, construction, and details of com- pleted structure. 112pp. 9y 4 x 10. 23671-4 Pa. $5.00 THE ELEMENTS OF DRAWING, John Ruskin. Timeless classic by great Viltorian; starts with basic ideas, works through more difficult. Many practical exercises. 48 illustrations. Introduction by Lawrence Campbell. 228pp. 5% x 8y 2 . 22730-8 Pa. $2.75 GIST OF ART, John Sloan. Greatest modern American teacher, Art Stu- dents League, offers innumerable hints, instructions, guided comments to help you in painting. Not a formal course. 46 illustrations. Introduction by Helen Sloan. 200pp. 5% x 8y 2 . 23435-5 Pa. $3.50 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS DRAWINGS OF WILLIAM BLAKE, William Blake. 92 plates from Book of Job, Divine Comedy, Paradise Lost, visionary heads, mythological figures, Laocoon, etc. Selection, introduction, commentary bv Sir Geoffrey Keynes. 178pp. 8% x 11. 22303-5 Pa. $4.00 ENGRAVINGS OF HOGARTH, William Hogarth. 101 of Hogarth's greatest works: Rake's Progress, Harlot's Progress, Illustrations for Hudibras, Before and After, Beer Street and Gin Lane, many more. Full commentary. 256pp. 11 x 13%. 22479-1 Pa. 87.95 DAUMIER: 120 GREAT LITHOGRAPHS, Honore Daumier. Wide-ranging collection of lithographs by the greatest caricaturist of the 19th century. Concentrates on eternally popular series on lawyers, on married life, on liberated women, etc. Selection, introduction, and notes on plates by Charles F. Ramus. Total of 158pp. 9% x 12%. 23512-2 Pa. $5.50 DRAWINGS OF MUCHA, Alphonse Maria Mucha. Work reveals drafts- man of highest caliber: studies for famous posters and paintings, render- ings for book illustrations and ads, etc. 70 works, 9 in color; including 6 items not drawings. Introduction. List of illustrations. 72pp. 9% x 12%. (Available in U.S. only) 23672-2 Pa. S4.00 GIOVANNI BATTISTA PIRANESI: DRAWINGS IN THE PIERPONT MORGAN LIBRARY, Giovanni Battista Piranesi. For first time ever all of Morgan Library's collection, world's largest. 167 illustrations of rare Piranesi drawings — archeological, architectural, decorative and visionary. Essay, detailed list of drawings, chronology, captions. Edited by Felice Stampfle. 144pp. 9% x 12%. ~ 23714-1 Pa. $7.50 NEW YORK ETCHINGS (1905-1949), John Sloan. All of important American artist's N.Y. life etchings. 67 works include some of his best art; also lively historical record — Greenwich Village, tenement scenes. Edited by Sloan's widow. Introduction and captions. 79pp. 8% x 11%. 23651-X Pa. S4.00 CHINESE PAINTING AND CALLIGRAPHY: A PICTORIAL SURVEY, Wan- go Weng. 69 fine examples from John M. Crawford's matchless private collection: landscapes, birds, flowers, human figures, etc., plus calligraphy. Every basic form included: hanging scrolls, handscrolls, album leaves, fans, etc. 109 illustrations. Introduction. Captions. 192pp. 8% x 11%. 23707-9 Pa. $7.95 DRAWINGS OF REMBRANDT, edited by Seymour Slive. Updated Lipp- mann, Hofstede de Groot edition, with definitive scholarly apparatus. All portraits, biblical sketches, landscapes, nudes, Oriental figures, classical studies, together with selection of work by followers. 550 illustrations. Total of 630pp. 9% x 12%. 21485-0, 21486-9 Pa., Two-vol. set $14.00 THE DISASTERS OF WAR, Francisco Goya. 83 etchings record horrors of Napoleonic wars in Spain and war in general. Reprint of 1st edition, plus 3 additional plates. Introduction by Philip Hofer. 97pp. 9% x 8%. 21872-4 Pa. $3.75 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS THE ANATOMY OF THE HORSE, George Stubbs. Often considered the great masterpiece of animal anatomy. Full reproduction of 1766 edition, plus prospectus; original text and modernized text. 36 plates. Introduction by Eleanor Garvey. 121pp. 11 x 14%. 23402-9 Pa. $6.00 BRIDGMAN'S LIFE DRAWING, George B. Bridgman. More than 500 illustrative drawings and text teach you to abstract the body into its major masses, use light and shade, proportion; as well as specific areas of anatomy, of which Bridgman is master. 192pp. 6V2 x 9V^. (Available in U.S. only) 22710-3 Pa. $2.50 ART NOUVEAU DESIGNS IN COLOR, Alphonse Mucha, Maurice Verneuil, Georges Auriol. Full-color reproduction of Combinaisons orne- mentales (c. 1900) by Art Nouveau masters. Floral, animal, geometric, interlacings, swashes — borders, frames, spots — all incredibly beautiful. 60 plates, hundreds of designs. 9% x 8-1/16. 22885-1 Pa. $4.00 FULL-COLOR FLORAL DESIGNS IN THE ART NOUVEAU STYLE, E. A. Seguy. 166 motifs, on 40 plates, from Les flews et leurs applications decoratives (1902): borders, circular designs, repeats, allovers, "spots." All in authentic Art Nouveau colors. 48pp. 9% x 12 V4. 23439-8 Pa. $5.00 A DIDEROT PICTORIAL ENCYCLOPEDIA OF TRADES AND IN- DUSTRY, edited by Charles C. Gillispie. 485 most interesting plates from the great French Encyclopedia of the 18th century show hundreds of working figures, artifacts, process, land and cityscapes; glassmaking, paper- making, metal extraction, construction, weaving, making furniture, clothing, wigs, dozens of other activities. Plates fully explained. 920pp. 9 x 12. 22284-5, 22285-3 Clothbd., Two-vol. set $40.00 HANDBOOK OF EARLY ADVERTISING ART, Clarence P. Hornung. Largest collection of copyright-free early and antique advertising art ever compiled. Over 6,000 illustrations, from Franklin's time to the 1890's for special effects, novelty. Valuable source, almost inexhaustible. Pictorial Volume. Agriculture, the zodiac, animals, autos, birds, Christmas, fire engines, flowers, trees, musical instruments, ships, games and sports, much more. Arranged by subject matter and use. 237 plates. 288pp. 9 x 12. 20122-8 Clothbd. $13.50 Typographical Volume. Roman and Gothic faces ranging from 10 point to 300 point, "Barnum," German and Old English faces, script, logotypes, scrolls and flourishes, 1115 ornamental initials, 67 complete alphabets, more. 310 plates. 320pp. 9 x 12. 20123-6 Clothbd. $13.50 CALLIGRAPHY ( CALLIGRAPHIA LATINA), J. G. Schwandner. High point of 18th-century ornamental calligraphy. Very ornate initials, scrolls, borders, cherubs, birds, lettered examples. 172pp. 9 x 13. 20475-8 Pa. $6.00 CATALOGUE OF DOVER BOOKS AMERICAN ANTIQUE FURNITURE, Edgar G. Miller, Jr. The basic coverage of all American furniture before 1840: chapters per item chrono- logically cover all types of furniture, with more than 2100 photos. Total of 1106pp. 7% x 103/ 4 . 21599-7, 21600-4 Pa., Two-vol. set $17.90 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO SHAKER FURNITURE, Robert Meader. Director, Shaker Museum, Old Chatham, presents up-to-date coverage of all furniture and appurtenances, with much on local styles not available elsewhere. 235 photos. 146pp. 9 x 12. 22819-3 Pa. $5.00 ORIENTAL RUGS, ANTIQUE AND MODERN, Walter A. Hawley. Persia, Turkey, Caucasus, Central Asia, China, other traditions. Best general sur- vey of all aspects: styles and periods, manufacture, uses, symbols and their interpretation, and identification. 96 illustrations, 11 in color. 320pp. 6% x 9y 4 . 22366-3 Pa. $6.00 CHINESE POTTERY AND PORCELAIN, R. L. Hobson. Detailed descrip- tions and analyses by former Keeper of the Department of Oriental An- tiquities and Ethnography at the British Museum. Covers hundreds of pieces from primitive times to 1915. Still the standard text for most periods. 136 plates, 40 in full color. Total of 750pp. 5% x 8Y2. 23253-0 Pa. $10.00 THE WARES OF THE MING DYNASTY, R. L. Hobson. Foremost scholar examines and illustrates many varieties of Ming (1368-1644). Famous blue and white, polychrome, lesser-known styles and shapes. 117 illustrations, 9 full color, of outstanding pieces. Total of 263pp. 6Ys x 9V4. (Available in U.S. only) 23652-8 Pa. $6.00 ACKERMANN'S COSTUME PLATES, Rudolph Ackermann. Selection of 96 plates from the Repository of Arts, best published source of costume for English fashion during the early 19th century. 12 plates also in color. Captions, glossary and introduction by editor Stella Blum. Total of 120pp. 8% x liy4. 23690-0 Pa. $4.50 Prices subject to change without notice. Available at your book dealer or write for free catalogue to Dept. GI, Dover Publications, Inc., 180 Varick St., N.Y., N.Y. 10014. Dover publishes more than 175 books each year on science, elementary and advanced mathematics, biology, music, art, literary history, social sciences and other areas. 3 8 2 7 f University of Connecticut Libraries