Please handle this volume with care. The University of Connecticut hb, 'Stx F 41.5.S96 1887 White Mountains, a handbook for tr 3 ^153 DD3Q5Tfe, D 1 < c VJ1 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS: HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. A GUIDE TO THE PEAKS, PASSES, AND RAVINES OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS OF NEW HAMPSHIRE, AND TO THE ADJACENT RAILROADS, HIGHWAYS, AND VILLAGES ; WITH THE LAKES AND MOUNTAINS OF WESTERN MAINE; ALSO LAKE W1NNEPESAUKEE, AND THE UPPER CONNECTICUT VALLEY. With Six Maps and Six Panoramas. EIGHTH EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. BOSTON: TICKNOR AND COMPANY. 1887. Copyright, 1876 and 1884, By JAMES K. OSGOOD & CO. University Press : John Wilson and Son, Cambridge. PREFACE. The extensive and thorough explorations whose result was the first edi- tion of this Guide-booh were made in 1875, and large additions have been inserted yearly since, embodying the facts found out in journeys by the Editor, his correspondence with the mountaineers, and the valuable recon- noissances of the Appalachian Mountain Club. Suggestions and corrections are always very welcome. The main object of this Handbook is to supply the summer- tourist with such information as may render his visit to the "White Mountains both pleasant and profitable. The villages and hotels among the mountains have been described with care, and the routes in their vicinity have also been explained. Ac- counts of the more remote and lofty peaks have been added, to open new fields to adventurous mountaineers. It is hoped that travellers may thus be rendered independent of the services of hotel-keepers, summer correspondents, and guides, and may be enabled to enjoy to the fullest extent the magnificent scenery of the hill-country of New England. Those who wish to study economy of time or money will be enabled to compute the dura- tion or expense of their journey from the data hereinafter given. The rapid extension of the railroads into this region, and the construction of large and comfortable hotels at favorable points, have given facilities which are now enjoyed by a vast and increas- ing number of travellers. Summits have recently been visited far in the unbroken wilderness, and others still remain to reward the attack of their first explorer. Mountain exploring clubs have united the more active among the alpestrians of New Eng- land, and are making fresh advances over the untrodden heights, combining scientific observations with bold feats of adventure. This book is not written or modified to aid the interests of any railroad, hotel, or vicinity. So far as our information goes, it is intended to make a fair display of the scenery and advantages of each route, with reference only to its natural capabilities and aesthetic wealth. The Publishers placed large resources at the iv PREFACE. command of the Editor, with the condition that he should re- ceive no special favors from the common carriers and landlords in the mountain-region. The railroad companies were equally courteous ; and the landlords of the hotels were uniformly obliging and hospitable, as it is their duty, in all cases, to be. And, in the words of Starr King, " We take it for granted, also, that travellers are moved to spend their money and time, not primarily to study the gastronomy of Coos County in New Hampshire, or to criticise the comparative upholstery of the largest houses there ; but to be introduced to the richest feasts of loveliness and grandeur that are spread by the summer around the valleys, and to be refreshed by the draperies of verdure, shadow, cloud, and color, that are hung by the Creator around and above the hills." The A B C Pathfinder Railway Guide (New-England Rail- way Publishing Co., Boston) is the best collection of the time- tables of New-England railroads. The new topographical map embodies the results of the sur- veys of Bond, Boardman, Hitchcock, Huntington, Vose, An- derson, and others, up to the close of the year 1875, together with the new names given by the mountain clubs of Portland and Boston. The other maps are the result also of much care and research, and will doubtless be of essential aid to the trav- eller in selecting the best routes and attaining a satisfactory knowledge of the situation of the mountains, lakes, and villages. The panoramas from Jefferson Hill and Mt. Prospect were made by Prof. J. H. Huntington, who secured perfect accuracy by the use of a camera lucida. The artistic and beautiful views from Mt. Kiarsarge, Mt. Pleasant, and Mt. Washington are careful reductions from drawings which were made by a mem- ber of the White-Mountain Club of Portland, for the Geologi- cal Survey of New Hampshire. It was intended to have also panoramas from Moosilauke and Mt. Lafa}^ette, but protracted cold and snowy weather settled down when the Guide-book party moved in that direction, and prevented the drawing. The Editor has thoroughly and carefully explored the greater part of the country described, and has made the ascent of nearly PREFACE. V eighty peaks therein, solely with the object of gathering fresh and reliable information. During the seasons devoted to field- work he secured the assistance and companionship of Prof. J. H. Huntington, the veteran alpestrian and scientist, who also prepared the section of the Introduction which treats of the geology of the White Mountains. Many gentlemen have com- municated to the Editor facts of interest about the hill-country ; and among these he would gratefully mention Profs. C. H. Hitchcock, C. E. Fay, E. C. Pickering, E. Tuckerman, and G. L. Vose ; Messrs. Warren Upham, C. B. Raymond, W. G. Nowell, Lory Odell, and Joel Eastman ; and several members of the White- Mountain Club of Portland and the Appalachian Mountain Club of Boston. But it is impossible to avoid errors in a work of this kind, and it is therefore requested that tourists who find misstate- ments or grave omissions in these pages will have the kindness to point them out to the Editor, in order that due corrections may be made. The communications of this character already received about the previous volumes of Ticknor's American Handbooks have in many instances proved very serviceable. The most notable results of recent explorations, up to 1885; are given in the following pages, and it is designed to extend this feature every year, by adding the freshest results of th labors of the Appalachian Mountain Club and other practis* alpestrians. In this manner, new routes and new points of in- terest will frequently be placed before tourists, enduing the wbok region with continually growing attraction. Small topographical maps of special localities, and precise panoramic sketches are also to be added to the text, combining greater convenience, pictorial interest, and scientific value. The officers and members of the Appalachian Mountain Club, the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Sur- vey, and the State Geological Survey, continually subject this book to the severest tests, and kindly send their criticisms to the Editor, who uses them to correct and perfect the descriptions. M. F. SWEETSER, Editor of Ticknors American Guide-books, 211 Tremont Street, Boston. TICKNOR'S AMERICAN GUIDE-BOOKS. " There are no better guide-books in the world than Baedeker's, after xcliich these of Ticknor are modelled, and the modelling is intelligent, able, and successful, admirably applying tried methods to new materials.' 1 '' — The Coxgregationalist, Boston. NEW ENGLAND. A Guide to the Chief Cities and Popular Resorts of New England, Its Scenery and Historic Attractions ; with the "Western and Northern Borders, from New York to Quebec. 6 Maps and 11 Plans. Fourth Edition $1.50 THE MIDDLE STATES. A Guide to the Chief Cities and Popular Resorts of the Middle States, their Scenery and Historic Attractions ; with the Northern Border, from Niagara to Montreal. 8 Maps and 15 Plans. Revised Edition 1.50 THE MARITIME PROVINCES. A Guide to the Chief Cities, Coasts, and Islands of the Maritime Provinces of Canada ; with the Gulf and River St. Lawrence ; also Newfoundland and the Labrador Coast. 4 Maps and 4 Plans . 1.50 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. A Guide to the White Mountains and Franconia Mountains. With full descriptions of each Peak and of the Routes through the " Switzerland of America." 6 Maps and 6 Panoramas . . . 1.50 TICKNOR AND COMPANY, Publishers. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. PAGE I. Geology of the White Mountains (by J. H Huntington) ... 1 II. Topography 15 III. Scenery 16 IV. History 21 V. The Indians 23 VI. Nomenclature 29 VII. Season 32 VIII. Pedestrian Tours 33 IX. Equipments 38 X. Guides 41 XI Routes 41 XII. Round Trips 43 XIII. Hotels and Boarding-Houses 44 XIV. Villages 46 XV. Expense 46 XVI. Miscellaneous Notes 47 THE APPROACHES TO THE MOUNTAINS. route 1. Boston to the White Mountains (Eastern Division, Boston & Maine R.R.) 2. Boston to the White Mountains (Boston & Lowell R. R.) ... 53 3. The Mt. -Washington Branch R. R 4. Boston to Lake Winnepesaukee (Boston & Maine R.R.) . 5. Portland to the White Mountains (Portland & Ogdensburg R.R.) . 59 6. Portland to the White Mountains (Grand Trunk Railway) . . 64 7. Montreal to the White Mountains (Grand Trunk Railway) . . .66 8. Montreal to the White Mountains (South-Eastern Railway) . . 68 9. Saratoga to the White Mountains 68 10. White-River Junction to the White Mountains 69 THE MOUNTAIN VILLAGES AND GLENS, AND THE ADJACENT PEAKS. 11. North Conway 71 1. Saco Intervales 73 2. Artist's Falls. Kiarsarge Village .74 viii CONTENTS. route page 12. The Green Hills 76 1. Peaked Mountain. Middle Mountain 77 13. Mount Kiarsarge, or Pequawket . 79 1. The View 81 2. The Name Kiarsage, or Pequawket 84 14. The White-Horse and Cathedral Ledges 85 1. Diana's Bath 87 15. Moat Mountain 87 1. The South Peak 90 16. Conway 92 1. Buttermilk Hollow. Potter's Farm 93 17. North Conway to the Glen House 94 18. Lower Bartlett 95 19. Mount Attitash 96 20. Jackson 98 1. Eagle Mountains. Winniweta Falls 99 21. Thorn Mountain 100 1. Tin Mountain 102 22. Double-Head 102 23. Iron Mountain 104 24. The Glen 106 1. The Imp. Thompson's Falls. Glen-Ellis Falls . . .108 2. Crystal Cascade 109 25. The Carter Notch 110 26. Mount Wild-Cat Ill 27. The Carter Range 112 28. Gorham 112 1. Randolph Hill 114 2. Pine Mountain 115 29 Mount Hayes 115 30. Mount Surprise 116 31. Mount Moriah „ . . 118 32. Shelburne 120 1. Mount Winthrop. Hark Hill 121 2 Lead-Mine Bridge. Gates Cottage 122 33. Mount Baldcap 123 34. Berlin Falls ... 124 1. Alpine Cascades. Mount Forist 125 35. The Milan Road 125 36. Milan 126 1. Green's Ledge. Success. Cambridge 127 37. Upper Bartlett 127 1. Bear Mountain. Table Mountain 128 38. Mount Langdon 128 39. Mount Tremont 130 40. The Bartlett Haystack 132 41. Mount Lowell and the Nancy Range 183 CONTENTS. IX ROUTE 42. Mount Carrigain .... 1. The Carrigain Notch 43. The Crawford Glen. Bemis Station 44. Mount Crawford 45. Mount Resolution .... Mount Giant's Stairs .... The Willey House .... The White-Mountain Notch . The Cascades in the Notch 1. Flume Cascade. Silver Cascade . 2. Ripley Falls. Arethusa Falls . The Crawford House .... 1. Saco Lake. Gate of the Notch . 2. Beecher's Cascades. Gibbs's Falls Mount Willard 1. Hitchcock Flume. Devil's Den The Mount-Willey Range . 1. Mounts Tom, Avalon, Field, Willey 63. Eastern Pemigewasset 1. Ethan's Pond 2. Thoreau Falls. Mount Hancock 54. The Fabyan House .... 1. Giant's Grave. Ammonoosuc Falls 2. Mount Deception .... 55. The Twin-Mountain House 56. The Twin Mountains 1. N. Twin. S. Twin . 2. Mount Bond. Mount Guyot 3. Mount Hale 57. Bethlehem .... 58. Mount Agassiz .... 59. Whitefield . 1. Howland Observatory . 60. Dalton .... 46. 47. 48. 49. 50. 51. 52. 61. Dalton Mountain . 62. Lancaster .... 1. Lunenburg Heights . 2. Mount Prospect 3. Lost Nation. New France 63. The Pilot Mountains 64. Northumberland . 1. Cape Horn 65. The Percy Peaks 1. Sugar-Loaf 66. Jefferson Hill . 1 Bray Hill. Mount Pliny 2. Cherry Pond X CONTENTS. route page 67. Mount Starr King 185 68. Cherry Mountain 187 69. The Mount-Adams House I 188 70. The Cherry-Mountain Road 189 THE PRESIDENTIAL RANGE. 71. The Ancient Paths 193 72. Tuckerman's Ravine 194 1. Hermit Lake. The Snow Arch 195 73. Huntington's Ravine 197 74. The Great Gulf 198 75. King's Ravine 199 76. The Ravine of the Mt.-Washington River 200 1. Oakes's Gulf 201 77. The Alpine Garden and the Lion's Head 201 1. The Nelson Crag. Alpine Garden 202 2. Lion's Head 203 78. Boott's Spur 203 79. Mounts Jackson and Webster 205 80. Mount Clinton 205 81. Mount Pleasant .207 82. Mount Franklin 209 83. Mount Monroe 210 1. Lakes of the Clouds 212 84. Mount Madison 212 85. Mount Adams 215 86. Mount Jefferson 218 1. The Castellated Ridge 219 87. Mount Clay 220 88. The Bridle-Path from the Crawford House 221 89. The Davis Bridle -Path . . . .224 90. The Route over the Northern Peaks 225 1. From Copp's. From Howker's 226 2. Lowe's Path 228 3. The Old Stillings Path 230 91. The Mt.-Washington Carriage-Road 230 92. The Mt.-Washington Railway 233 1. Ammonoosuc. Jacob's Ladder 234 93. Mount Washington 236 94. Historical Sketch of Mount Washington 238 95. The View from Mount Washington 242 THE FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. 96. Littleton 253 97. Lisbon 254 1. Hunt's Mountain. Bath 255 98. Sugar Hill 255 CONTENTS. xi route page 99. Mount Kinsman 257 100. The Franconia Mountains 257 101. The Franconia Notch 258 102. Littleton to the Profile House 259 108. The Profile House 260 1. Echo Lake. Profile Lake 261 104. The Profile 262 105. Mount Cannon, or Profile 263 106. Bald Mountain 264 107. Mount Lafatette 265 1. The Haystack 270 108. The Flume House 270 1. The Flume. The Pool 271 2. The Basin. Tunnel Falls 272 109. The Lower Franconla Peaks 273 110. Mount Pemigewasset 275 111. Western Pemigewasset 276 THE PEMIGEWASSET VALLEY. 112 Plymouth . . T ". T~"~-": : 277 1. Holderness. Livermore Falls . . . . . . . 279 113. Mount Prospect 280 114. The Pemigewasset Valley 282 ^H5. Campton Village 284 116. Mount Weetamoo 285 117. Welch Mountain -287 118. Morgan Mountain 238 119. West Campton 289 -1. Ellsworth 290 120. Thornton 291 f- 1. The Mill-Brook Cascades 292 121. Woodstock 292 1. The Agassiz Basins 293 2. Blue Ridge. Mount Cushman 294 THE WESTERN VALLEYS AND MOUNTAINS. 122. Rumney 295 1. Rattlesnake Mountain 296 123. Westworth 297 124. Warren 297 1. Ore Hill. Tarleton Lake 299 125. Moosilauke 300 126. Mount Carr and Webster's Slide 307 1. Mount Mist. Wachipauka Pond 308 127. Owl's Head and Blueberry Mountain 309 128. Sugar Loaf 310 129. Black Mountain (Benton) 311 xii CONTENTS. route page 130. Haverhill 312 131. Newbury 313 1. Montebello Springs 315 2. Mount Pulaski 316 3. Wells River. Woodsville 317 132. Bradford and Piermont 318 133 Orford and Fairlee 319 1. Mount Cube 319 2. Mount Fairlee 320 THE WATERVILLE AND SANDWICH MOUNTAINS. 134. Waterville 321 1. Greeley Ponds. Noon Peak 322 135. Mount Osceola 322 136. The Mount-Tecumseh Range 325 137. Tripyramid and the Great Slide 328 138. Sandwich Dome 330 1. The Acteon Range 334 139. Mounts Whiteface and Passaconaway 335 140. Mount Chocorua 337 141. Albany 342 1. Swift-River Falls. Champney tails 342 2. The Potash. Church's Falls 343 THE OSSIPEE COUNTRY. 142. Tamworth 345 1. Chocorua Lake 345 2. Tamworth Village. Madison 346 3. Silver Lake. Eaton 347 143. West Ossipee 347 1. Ossipee Mountain 348 144. Ossipee Lake 349 145. The Green Mountain in Effingham 350 146. Freedom Village and Mount Prospect 351 147. The Whittier Peak 352 THE LAKE-COUNTRY OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 148. Wolfeborough 355 1. Smith's Pond .356 149. Copple Crown and Tumble Down Dick 357 150. Alton Bay 360 1. Merry-Meeting Lake. Gilmanton 361 151. The Weirs, Meredith, and Ashland 362 152. Laconia 363 1. Lake Village. Lake Winnesquam 364 153. Mount Belknap 365 154. The West Shore of Lake Winnlpesaukee 368 CONTENTS. xui route page 155. Centre Harbor 370 1. Long Pond. Rollins Hill 371 156. Red Hel 372 157 Centre Harbor to West Ossipee 376 158. Centre Harbor to Plymouth 377 159. The Drive around Squam Lake 378 160. Squam Lake 379 161. Sandwich 381 162. Mount Israel 382 163. Moultonborough 384 1. Moultonborough Neck. Long Island 385 2. Moultonborough Spring. Ossipee Falls 386 164. The Ossipee Mountains 386 1. Black Snout. Melvin Peak 387 165. Tuftonborocgh 387 166. Lake Winnepesaukee 388 167 Historical Sketch of Lake Winnepesaukee 391 168. The Voyage across Lake Winnepesaukee, — The Route of the "Lady of the Lake" 393 169. The Voyage across Lake Winnepesaukee, — The Route of the "Mi. Washington*' 395 WESTERN MAINE. 170. The Presumpscot and Lower Saco Valleys 399 1. Portland. Standish. Saddleback Mt. 399 2. Cornish. Great Falls. Mount Cutler 400 171. Sebaoo Lake 401 1. Little Sebago Lake. The Notch 402 2. Songo River. Bay of Naples 403 3. Long Pond. Bridgton 404 4. N. Bridgton. Waterford. Harrison 405 172. Fryeburg ... 406 1. Stark's Hill. Jockey Cap 407 2. Lovewell's Pond 408 173 Mount Pleasant, or Pleasant Mountain 410 174. Chatham 414 1. Baldface . 414 2. Mount Royce. Lovell 415 175. Paris and Norway 416 1. Bryant's Pond 417 176. Bethel 417 1. Albany Basins. Gilead 418 177. Mount Abram 419 178. Goose-Eye 420 179. The Dixville and Grafton Notches 421 1 Connecticut Lake. Mount Carmel 422 180. The Kennebec Peaks 423 XJV CONTENTS. Index to Localities 425 Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions 433 Index to Quotations 433 Index to Railroad, Steamboat, and Stage Lines 434 Authorities consulted ln the Preparation of this Volume .... 434 MAPS. Lake Winnepesauk.ee and the Adjacent Counties : to fold. Sebago Lake and Western Maine : to fold. The Presidential Range : opposite page 193. The Franconia Notch : near page 258. Key-Map of Railroads ; back cover page. PANORAMAS. From Mount Washington : opposite page 243. Mount Kiarsarge (Pequawket) : opposite page 79. Mount Pleasant (Maine): opposite page 411. Mount Prospect (Plymouth): opposite page 281. Mount Hayes : opposite page 115. Jefferson Hill : opposite page 181. ABBREVIATIONS. M. — Mile, or miles. N. — North. S. — South. E. — East. W. — West. hr. — hour, min. — minutes, r — right. 1. — left. ' ft. — foot, or feet. Mt. preceding a name, means Mount ; but when it comes after the name, it means Mountain. Mt. Clay. — Mount Clay. Morgan Mt. — Morgan Mountain. Asterisks denote objects deserving of special attention, or indicate the most comfortable hotels THE APPALACHIAN MOUNTAIN CLUB. Early in January, 1876, a meeting of those interested in mountain ex- ploration was called at the Institute of Technology, Boston. This re- sulted in the formation of a society called The Appalachian Mountain Club, having for its objects the exploration of the mountains of New England and, the adjacent regions, both for scientific and artistic purposes ; also, in general, to cultivate an interest in geographical studies. Provision is made for five departments of work, each of which is placed under the- guidance of a member of the club elected yearly for that purpose. These five, with the other officers of the club, form the council, whose duty it is to superintend the general business of the club. During the fall, winter, and spring, meetings are held on the afternoon of the second Wednesday of each month ; and throughout the summer field-meetings will be convened at various points among the mountains. The meetings so far held have been well attended, and numerous interesting papers about mountain explora- tions have been read. Recognizing the importance of a correct system of nomen- clature of the mountains, this subject early received the attention of the club, and a committee carefully examined the various names by which many of the peaks are designated. After a full discussion, in which the views of all the available authori- ties were represented, it was voted to recommend certain names as the most authentic or best established. These names, almost without exception, are those given in this Guide-Book. Of those on which no couclusion was reached should be mentioned Kiarsarge, or Pequawket, and Sandwich Dome, or Black Mountain. The departments are : Natural History ( ), embracing all work pertaining to the geology, botany, zoology, and entomology of the moun- tains ; Topography ( ), including the construction of accurate maps of the mountains, and all work necessary for that purpose ; Art ( ), covering the collection of views of the mountains, improv- ing the prospects by removing obstructions, and aiding in every way possible the true lover of mountain-scenery ; Exploration ( ), relating to the formation of parties to visit the more inaccessible points, and otherwise encour- aging the opening of new fields of labor ; and Impi'ovements ( ), in charge of the making of new paths and clearing old ones, building stone, log, and brush camps, erecting correct guide-boards, and other works tending to make the mountains more accessible and attractive The club will collect books, maps, sketches, photographs, and all available information of interest or advantage to frequenters of the mountains; and, in order to facilitate comparative study, the library will be extended by the addition of books and maps relating to all parts of the world. The club wishes to connect its special work among the Appalachians with the general results of investigations elsewhere, and will encourage the study of comparative geography in general, opening its meetings to contributions, both scientific and popular, on zoological and botanical geography, geology, topography, hydrography, travel, and exploration. The club has now about 700 members, including both men and women. The annual assessment is $ 3. In order to carry out the plans of the club and secure uniformity of action, it is desirable that all persons interested in this work shall become members. Address, Recording Secretary, Appalachian Mountain Club, Boston, Mass. INTRODUCTION. I. Geology of the White Mountains. 1 By J. H. Huntington. As the natural scenery of every country, the very feature that attracts the tourist, depends upon its geological structure, every one may well wish to know something about the geology of the country he visits. But one may travel and make extensive tours without map or guide-book, and, at the end of a summer vacation or a year of travel, return to his home and be as profoundly ignorant of the country he has traversed as a man is of astronomy, who has spent his whole life in a mine, and has never seen the light of the sun, or even a geography of the heavens. Such a person of course only cares to travel that he may be able to say, " When I was in Paris," or "When I was at the Yosemite " ; " When I ascended Mount Rigi," or " When I went up Mount Washington by rail." Individuals who have such ideas of travel would not care whether a mountain was trap or travertine, granite or gneiss, or whether the noted structures of a famous city were built of adobe or marble, of sandstone or brick. Yet there are tourists who see in every cliff, in every sculptured rock, and in every water-worn pebble, a history they would like to read. The buried cities of the East, before excavations are made, are only mounds of earth, not unlike hundreds of others, but when these mounds are known to hide the secrets of dynasties, that long, long since perished from the earth, they excite an interest that will cause men to undergo the greatest privation and labor, that they may bring to light these treasures of antiquity. Yet the rock-masses whence come the stones of which cities are built have an an- tiquity compared with which the time from when the most ancient city was founded until to-day is a mere point. In the years that are coming, the tourist who does not know the kind of rocks of the mountain he has as- cended, or something of the geological structure of the valley where he h;is passed his summers, will be regarded very much in the same light as a per- 1 Those who desire a more extended account of the geology of this region are referred to the Report of the Geology of New Hampshire, Vol. I. Physical Geography (C. H. Hitchcock, State Geologist, J. H. Huntington, Principal Assistant, 1874) ; Vol. II. Stratigraphical Geol- ogy ; and a Folio of Maps, 1876. Published by the authority of tho Stato of Xew Hampshire, at Concord. 1 A 2 GEOLOGY. son now is, who cannot tell the geography of the country in which he has travelled, or something about the scenery of the places he has visited. In the following pages we shall give (1) a description of the rocks with their mineral constituents, in what appears to be their chronological order, and in this connection we shall note the localities, on the routes of travel, where each variety of rock can be seen in its characteristic form; (2) the present configuration of the land, — the mountains and hills, the gorges and valleys; (3) the minerals and where they are found. The areas of the different groups of rocks are for the most part exceed- ingly irregular. This is owing (1) to the wearing away of stratified rocks, and the subsequent uplifting and folding of the strata by forces that ncted in different directions; and (2) to the intrusion of granitic rocks that ab- sorbed or partially concealed the stratified rocks. The Laurentian System. 1. Porphyrinic Gneiss. — This rock nearly everywhere has the appearance of being granite instead of gneiss, but from its relations to other rocks with which it is associated, and in some instances in the arrangement of its con- stituents, there is little doubt but that it is a true gneiss. It has a very coarse granular texture. The large crystals of feldspar are from one half to three inches in length, and are generally scattered irregularly through a base of finer material, though sometimes they have their longer axis parallel to the plane of stratification. The quartz is not abundant, and the mica is gen- erally black. Nearly everywhere that the rock is exposed, it is of a rnsty brown color from oxidation of the iron that is diffused through it. This rock extends southward beyond the area we are considering. At Lake Village and northward to Centre Harbor, if ledges do not appear, boulders can be seen almost everywhere. At Meredith Village, on account of its being used in building, this rock is very noticeable, and the clear-cut crystals of feldspar appear on every freshly fractured surface. On the road from Centre Harbor to Plymouth, where it begins to descend towards White-Oak Pond, the boulders are remarkably free from iron. N. of Little Squam Lake, where the road turns to the N. beyond the town- house, the porphyritic gneiss is associated with a ferruginous schist. On Mt. Prospect we have the same association of rocks, but here the crystals of feldspar are much smaller than they are generally in the porphyritic gneiss. On the road from Sandwich Notch towards Sandwich Centre, there are many outcrops, and it appears on the steep southern slope of Wliitefaee. In Waterville it can be seen on Bald Knob, on Snow's Mountain, and on Cascade Brook, £ M. above the Cascades. In the N. W. part of Albany, on the extreme northern slope of Passaconaway, where this rock out- crops, the crystals of feldspar are sometimes three inches in length. They arc larger here than at any other locality. On the S. E. spur of Mt. Carrigain we find a characteristic variety, and it extends up Hie GEOLOGY. 3 ridge nearly a mile from whe r e it terminates at Sawyer's River. At one point on the river the water falls 25 -30 ft. over the smooth surface of this rock. Thi3 is probably the northern Hmit of the eas tern range of the porphyritic gneiss. Another range of this rock_appears in Rumney, on the northern sdope of MTrlTtinl?on7~wTTere it is quite free from iron. It outcrops in several places on the rj^d^mmjng^thjaugh _.the_S.__part of Ellsworth. It is probably an extension of this range that appears in Thornton, S. of Hatch H 11, and in Woodstock, W. of the Pemigewasset, and farther N. on Bald Mountain. We meet with it on the path up Mt. Lafayette, on the ridge before coming to the Eagle Lakes. North- ward it outcrops on the B., C. & M. R, R., between Alder-Brook Station and Wing Road ; and it forms the high white bluffs to the W. . These loca - ities are the most northern outcrops where the rock has been seen in place. Bethlehem Gneiss. — The characteristic variety of the Bethlehem gneiss is composed of a light flesh-colored feldspar which largely predominates, chlorite in the place of mica (or if the latter is found it occurs in minute scales), and light-gray quartz. Some of the coarse varieties resemble porphyritic gneiss, but the crystals of feldspar are almost invariably smaller, and are arranged in nodular branches, which are in the midst of the finer micaceous layers of the rock. These layers will usually distin- guish this rock from all other varieties of granitic rock found in the White- Mountain area. It has its greatest development in the town of Bethlehem, where it is almost the only rock. The boulders, also, that are so numerous in many places, are of the same kind of rock. On the S. it extends into Franconia; and X., in Whitefield, there are extensive outcrops on the road E. of Kimball Hill Thence it extends X. E., and outcrops on the road just E. of the Mt. -Adams House, in Jefferson, and also on the hill above the house. Berlin or Lake Gneiss. — We use this term to designate a gneiss of a coarse foliated texture that is extensively developed in the White-Moun- tain area. It is composed of light-colored feldspar, dark-gray quartz, and a large proportion of black mica, which occurs in plates of considerable size. On account of the large quantity of mica, the rock is of quite a dark color, though the amount of mica that the rock contains is somewhat vari- able. It is the rock of the islands of Lake Winnepesaukee and its eastern shores. It forms immense ledges in Wentworth, along the railroad, and extends into Warren; and is found on the road around Mt. Cuba, in Or- ford. It is the underlying rock of the hills X. of E. Haverhill, and extends through the corner of Benton, and northward through the central part of Landaff into Lisbon. It outcrops again in Littleton, below the village, near the Scythe Factory, on Oak Hill, and on Mann's Hills. It is almost the only rock W and X. of Whitefield village, nnd it extends into Lancaster along the western base of Mt. Prospect. L 's the rock on the road from Lancaster to Jefferson Hill. N. of the latter place, in the clearing near the 4 GEOLOGY. woods, it is cut by the intrusive rocks of the mountain. Northward, in Berlin and Milan, it is found along the Grand Trunk Railway. There is a fine outcrop near Milan water-station. On the W. from Milan Corner it is the country rock, but probably it does not extend northward beyond the limit of the town. It nowhere rises in high elevations; it is either con- fined to the valleys, or forms low, rounded hills, of which Bray Hill, in Whitefield, is a typical example. The gneiss below Berlin station resem- bles this, but may be the remnant of an older formation. At the stat'on and above, also N. in Milan, on the railway, there is a gneiss of a different type : fine-grained, of a dark color, and containing veins of epidote and calcite, and is evidently a newer rock. White-Mountain Gneisses. — In the Report of the Geological Survey, these rocks have been grouped under what is there called the Montalban series. We find the rocks of this series more extensively developed in our area than any of those we have already described. The variety of the rocks is also greater, though the characteristics of each are quite per- sistent. We find micaceous gneisses verging into mica, and andalusite schists, genuine gneiss, granitic gneiss, and granite, the latter occurring in veins. The prevailing rock is a micaceous gneiss. It has generally a rather coarse granular texture, with well-defined crystalline plates of mica, and these are often arranged at various angles to the plane of strat- ification showing that the}' were developed subsequent to the sedimenta- tion of the rock. They also bind the constituents of the rock firmly together, and being thick-bedded and having few cleavage planes, it is a remarkably tough rock. In places we find well-defined mica schist inter- stratified with these gneisses, and elsewhere no less well defined granitic gneiss. The granite occurs as coarse granitic vein-stones, and these very frequently contain tourmaline, and sometimes beryl. Bocks of this series we find occupying the summit of Copple Crown. Here, as in many places, it is stained by iron. It extends northward, and is the rock in the vicinity of Tuftonborough v llage. It is the rock of Effingham, the N. part of Ossipee, of Madison, Eaton, and the E. part of Conway. In Bartlett and the S. part of Chatham, it is cut off by other rocks, but from the N. part of Chatham it extends W. and N. and forms the summits of all the peaks of the Preside- tial Range, of Wild-Cat, 'the Carter Range, Bald- face, M*". Royce, Imp, and Moriah. It is also the rock of the mountains in Shelburne, N. of the Androscoggin, and thence it extends N. E. towards Lake Umbagog. Just S. of the lake it is replaced by an intrusive granite, but it outcrops in many places on the road from the lake to Bethel. Western Range. — In Plymouth we have the well-defined micaceous and granitic gneisses of this series. Above the village, at the quarry, we have a rare opportunity of seeing the changes that have been effected in the rock by metamorphism. There is a rounded hill on the side of which the quarry has been opened in the granitic gneiss, which extends nearly to the GEOLOGY. 5 top of the hill. But crowning the summit, instead of the granitic gneiss, in which the lines of stratificatiun are almost entirely obliterated, we have a well-defined micaceous gneiss, the strata of which are set, as it were, into the granitic gneiss. The micaceous gneiss extends northward as far as Waterville. It can be seen at Campton Hollow, on the river opposi:e W. Campton, and on Mt. Weetamoo, where there is a fine exposure of the char- acteristic White-Mountain gneiss. To the N. E., the most northern expos- ure of these rocks is on Sandwich Dome. In Eumney there is a bend of rocks, perhaps converging from that in Plymouth, and it extends X. as far as Benton. The high bluff N. of the river near Eumney station presents a fine exposure of this rock. It differs from the characteristic White- Mountain gneiss, in that some of the strata are quite argillaceous, while others carry fibrolite; and as on Moosilauke and the ridges northward, we have a typical mica schist. It has been suggested that these rocks were formed from material derived from the wearing away of the White- Mountain gneiss. But these rocks, like those in the vicinity of Mt. Wash- ington, contain many coarse granitic veins that carry tourmaline, and very often beryl. Such is a general outline of the rocks of this series. The granitic gneiss can be seen in several places on the road from the Glen House to Gorham. On the Androscoggin Eiver, at Gorham village, it is interstratified with the micaceous gneiss; and there is a fine exposure at Moses Eock, in Shelburne. It is also the rock of Paradise Hill, in Bethel, Me. The mine in Madison, E. of Silver Lake, is in the micaceous gneiss, and this is the rock of the N. part of Jackson; and Grant's Ledge is a characteristic variety. It can be seen at the Glen-Ellis Ealls, and at the Emerald and Garnet Pools. At the falls, a short distance above where the water plunges over, there is a wide quartz vein. As this rock will probably be more often observed on the carriage-road and about the sum- mit of Mt. Washington, we shall be a little more specific. In going up the carriage-road, the first rocks we see are more quartzose than the rocks of the mountain generally. At the first mile-post we have gneiss, with gra- nitic veins, while the rock above is almost a quartzite; then the rock approaches mica schist, and the strata present an undulating surface. The hill to the N. E. is coarse granite, that carries tourmaline. After passing a stream we find the rock somewhat ferruginous. A rock that will attract attention farther on is a conglomerate " trap " ; then we find coarse intrusive granite, and above the schist has a distinct cleavage, and has beds of granite interstratified. At a sharp turn in the road there are mica schist, granite, and a compact siliceous rock. An examination of the rocks a little beyond reveals a fault. At the second mile-post the rock is tlrck-bedded, and carries andalusite. At the second turn above the rock is more fissile, the strata are twisted and contorted, and there is a sudden change m the dip. Above, where the road runs northerly, the rock has more the character of a fine-grained sandstone. On the upper side of a G GEOLOGY. long bridge there is a banded granite, then wavy mica schist, followed by coarse granite veins, with tourmaline. Above, where there are many ledges, the undulations appear like waves in a troubled sea. What is remarkable, these wavy strata, after continuing for a short distance, sud- denly become vertical. At the third mile-post, where we have again an easterly dip, the smaller waves are transverse to the dip of the strata. Above, for £ M. we have a series of folds. As we approach the Half- Way House, the ledges are concealed by drift. At the fourth mile-post the strata have a westerly dip. Above, for more than a mile, the curves and folds in the strata are very marked, especially at the fifth mile-post. A spring about eighty rods below this mile-post had a temperature of 37° in August. Towards the summit of the mountain the rocks become thick- bedded, and have both easterly and westerly dips. On the summit there is a small synclinal axis, but it is of li.tle significance as showing Ihe structure of the mountain. In every direction from the summit the rocks have the same general character. Following the ridge over the summits of Mts. Clay, Jefferson, Adams, and Madison, we meet with innumerable folds. On Clay the strata are perhaps more regular. On Jefferson we find that the rocks contain some andalusite, in imperfect crystals, but everywhere the rock is a thick-bedded micaceous gneiss. On the bridle- path to the Crawford House, after we pass Mt. Monroe, the rocks become quite ferruginous, and there appear to be great concretionary masses. These are of a much finer texture than the mass of the rock. The mica- ceous gneiss extends nearly to the Crawford House. The walls of all the deep gorges in the vicinity of Mt. Washington are, for the most part, the gneiss of the mountain. There is also a small area of this rock below Bemis Station, on the P. & 0. R. R , and it forms the walls of the flume on Nancy's Brook. This area is entirely surrounded by intrusive granite. The hard granitic gneiss at the Gate of the White-Mountain Notch, and in the two cuts below, the rock of Elephant's Head (at least the t-:p), and that for | M. S. of the Crawford House, probably belong to this series. The rock at Gibbs' Falls is a granitic gneiss, and above is the micaceous gneiss of the mountain. Labradorite. — It cannot be affirmed with any very great degree of cer- tainty that the labradorite of the White Mountains is a stratified rock, yet it appears to be. It was not suspected as occurring in New Hamp- shire, until specimens were obtained by me from the great slide in Water- ville. Usually, as found in the White-Mountain area, it is a dark granular crystalline rock, and it is so unlike the other rocks that it is easily recog- nized. The feldspar, when it has not been affected by the weather, is of a dark bluish color, and if examined with a lens, very fine lines (stria?) can be seen on the crystals. With this Labrador feldspar, or labradorite, in some places we find the mineral chrysolite, which can be here recognized by its occurring in grains, and being of an olive-green color. The rock GEOLOGY. 7 that is composed of these two minerals has been named ossipyte. Another variety of the Labrador rock is of a light color, and contains much horn- blende and no chrysolite. Every one who visits the slide in Waterville will see the rocks we have here described. Another locality where these rocks occur is on the Mt. -Washington River, some 2 M. from the Saco. If the rock is stratified, it rests on the White-Mountain gneiss. Boulders of labradorite, composed entirely of Labrador feldspar, are found in great abundance on the W. slope of Mill Mountain, in Stark. The beautiful striation of the crystals from this locality is remarkable. Franconia Breccia. — This rock is made up of fragments of other rocks. In it we find porphyritic gneiss, a dark compact gneiss, hornblende, and other siliceous rocks, and these are cemented together by a light feld- spathic paste. In the Franconia region it extends from Mt. Haystack to the Georgianna Falls. In the White-Mountain Notch it outcrops on the side of Mt. Willard. The rock is easily recognized, and it occurs in places of frequent resort. It can be seen just above where the water pours over into the Basin, and it is the rock of the high cliffs at the Profile House. Boulders of it are numerous on the bridle-path on Mt. Lafayette, as it begins to ascend the mountain, and we see the rock in high and overhanging ledges where the path passes through the sharp notch in Eagle Cliff. In the White-Mountain Notch it is cut by the railroad a little more than f M. from Crawford Station, and its immense angular fragments can be seen from the cars. It crosses the deep gorge below at Dismal Pool, and appears on the opposite side of the valley in the Silver Cascade, a short distance above the road. Huvonian System. The rocks of the Huronian system lie altogether to the W. of the Lau- rentian rock in New Hampshire. They consist of mica, greenish, feld- spathic, chloritic, and siliceous schists. The latter pass into hydro-mica schists. These can generally be cut with a knife, and have a greasy feeling. Mica Schists. — The typical rocks of this class consist of mica and quartz, and can be recognized by the shining surface of the folia. It usually splits readily, on account of the parallel arrangement of the mica. ■ But mica schist verges on the one hand into clay slate, and on the other into gneiss. Rocks nearest to the typical mica schist occur in Errol, on the road along Clear Stream, and on the hills W. of Lake Umbagog. This particular variety seems to be confined to this area, though a sim lar rock outcrops along the W. side of Kimball Hill, in Whitefield. In the E. part of Lisbon, particularly in the vicinity of Sugar Hill, we find a dark thick- bedded variety that carries large and beautiful crystals of staurolite. On the road S. W. towards Lisbon village, where it crosses Salmon-Hole Brook, the mica schist splits readily into thin plates, and the surfaces of 8 GEOLOGY. these are thickly studded with garnets. The mica schists that appear in the towns S. along the Connecticut River are exceedingly variable. A high hill in the N. part of Orford has a typical mica schist, and here as on the opposite side of the river below, in Thetford, there is soapstore interstratified with it. Near E. Haverhill, but extending into Piermont, the rock is composed almost altogether of quartz, and it is worked very extensively for scythe-stones. In Northumberland, between Mt. Lyon and the Pilot Range, there is a dark siliceous schist, and this rock is found also on the E. side of the Devil's Slide, in Stark, while a very similar rock forms high and precipitous ledges in the vicinity of N. Stratford Greenish, Feldspathic,and Siliceous Schists. — These rocks are quite vari- able. Some are thick-bedded, and have well-defined crystals of feldspar; but chlorite is almost invariably present, and gives the rock a greenish cast. Others are composed largely of quartz, while in places chlorite forms quite a large proportion of the rock. The first two varieties are found interstratified at Groveton, and the last can be seen a mile above Lancaster village. On the S. it forms the high bluff opposite Orford vil- lage, whence it extends N. along the river nearly to Bradford, and here it is largely feldspathic. A similar rock is found N. of Lisbon, near the iine of Lisbon and Lyman; and in Littleton it is adjacent to the fossiliferous limestone. On the Connecticut River, it outcrops in Vermont near the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad. In Dalton it is cut by the B., C. & M. Railroad, where it is slightly calcareous. On Mt. Prospect and the range W. in Lancaster, it is highly siliceous. It has the same character near Lancaster, and not far from the spring that supplies the Lancaster House a siliceous limestone is found. The first outcrop in Vermont above the Lancaster bridge is the chloritic variety, but this is limited and is suc- ceeded by the feldspathic variety, which extends along the Connecticut nearly to the line of Stratford. In the N. part of Lancaster hornblende is quite abundant, and on the road that turns N. E. of the Lancaster Fair- Ground massive epidote forms a component part of this rock. Siliceous and Hydro-mica Schists. — The latter are distinguished by hav- ing an unctious or greasy feeling, and generally .they are readily cut by a knife. On the one hand they pass into slaty rocks, as at Bradford ; and on the other into siliceous schists, as in Stark. Northward from Bradford the cleavage planes become less distinct and the rock is more compact. A cut on the Passumpsic Railroad just below Wells River shows this rock with the strata nearly vertical. There is also a cut through a iedge in the village, on the Montpelier road, where the rock can be seen. The highly tilted strata appear in the Connecticut, at the railroad bridge, and at a narrow gorge ^ M. above, and there are numerous outcrops at Woods- ville. It is the principal rock of Bath, and it extends N. and forms the mountain ridge between Monroe and Lyman, including Hunt's and Gard- ner Mountains. In Dalton, W. of Dalton Mountain, we find a character- GEOLOGY. 9 istic variety; and northward through Lunenburg and Guildhall, W. of the feldspathic, chloritic schists. From Starkwater station E. along the Gmnd Trunk Railway, including two extensive cuts near W. Milan, we have what would be called more properly a siliceous schist, though it has some of the properties of hydro-mica schist. The changing but nearly vertical dip of the strata show that in the band, as a whole, there are many folds. A similar rock forms the castellated peaks and spires of Dix- ville Notch. But here the peculiar cleavage of the strata into longitudi- nal fragments gives to the Notch its striking features. On the S. wall, half-way through the Notch, there is a profile, sharp in outline and remark- able (as pointed out by Mr. Arthur Fletcher, of Concord) for the change of expression when seen from different points. There is also a siliceous schist of limited area that outcrops in the river in Littleton village and on the railroad above. There is a light-gray siliceous schist in the N. E. part of Lyman that frequently carries gold. This may differ from the schist of Mt. Gardner, already noticed. Other Rocks. — There is a series of rocks that consists of clay slates, cal- ciferous mica schists, quartzites, and conglomerates, that may belong to the Lower Cambrian rather than the Huronian system. They are de- scribed below. Clay Slates. — Genuine clay slate is a rock quite rare in the White- Mountain area. There is a limited outcrop on the B., C. & M. Railroad, a short distance above E. Haverhill. The quartz veins in the slate of Lyman carry gold, and it is here that the Dodge Mine has been worked for several years. Free gold frequently occurs in the slate adjacent to the quartz. Attempts have been made to work slate for roofing in the N. E. part of Lisbon and in the S. W. part of Littleton. Clay slate passing into argillaceous sandstone is the rock of Dalton Mountain. This ma)' be a newer rock. Below Mt. Willard, on the side of Mt. Willey, the railroad cuts an argillaceous schist. From the summit of Mt. Willard we can trace the line where the granite comes in contact with this schist. The line has a zigzag course and the schist extends W. to Mt. Tom. Boulders of the schist, with crystals of andalusite, can be seen in the stream back of the Crawford House. Boulders containing thin crystals of andalusite, similar to the rock above Mt. Willard, but more indurated, have been found as far S. as Waterville. These, however, probably came from the Pemigewasset region. There is also a small area of slate on the S. side of Mt. Pequawket. Calciferuus Mica Schist. — These rocks consist of bands of argillaceous mica schist, clay slate, hard arenaceous schist, and siliceous limestone. These bands often alternate. There is a small area in the N. E. part of Orford, in the vicinity of Indian Pond. The largest area is in the N. part of Coos County, from Colebrook northward. These rocks underlie the remarkably fertile soil of that region. The absence of boulders, the con- 1* 10 GEOLOGY. tour of the hills, and fragments of decaying rock in the drift generally, indicate that this is the country rock. Quartzite. — This rock when examined by a lens shows that it is made of rounded grains which appear to be imbedded in a glassy-looking cement, while quartz always occurs in veins traversing other rocks, and has none of the granular structure of quartzite. It enters our area from the S., and in Orford it forms almost the entire mass of Mt. Cuba. N. it becomes very narrow, but widens as it approaches Piermont Mountain. The road from Warren to Piermont crosses it, where it passes through the moun- tain range, W. of the height of land. No outcrops are seen along the B., C. & M. Railroad, but there are enormous masses along the line of Haverhill and Benton. The sharp mountain and precipitous ridge that can be seen from E. Haverhill are formed of it. Between Sugar Loaf and the sharp peak called Black Mountain, it appears as a distinct conglom- erate. From Black Mountain it turns suddenly to the E., then to the N., and extends nearly through the town of Landaff, where it disappears. Conglomerates. — A conglomerate of the most interesting character begins ^ M. S. W. of Young's Pond in Lyman and extends southward into Bath. Nowhere can the foldings, overturns, and dislocations of strata be so well seen as along the line of its outcrop. Helderberg Rock. The discovery of fossils in New Hampshire was the most interesting, from a scientific point of view, made by the Geological Survey. The most southern point where the rocks are known to contain fossils is in the Ammonoosuc River, about \ M. below N. Lisbon. The fossiliferous rocks extend N. E. to an old quarry in the N. part of Littleton. The most inter- esting locality is on Fitch Hill. It is about fifty rods southerly from the house of E. Fitch, in an open pasture above an orchard. It was here that a fossil was discovered by me that determined the group to which this band of rocks belongs. A band of undoubted Helderberg rock occurs in Lyman, N. from the Dodge Mine, upon a hill near the house of D. Knapp. The rocks that belong to this group are (1) sandstone, (2) coralline lime- stone, (3) slate, schist, and conglomerate. Intrusive Rocks. Whether the intrusive rocks are of later origin than the Helderberg is something that cannot from our observation be determined. But that they are more recent than the Huronian is absolutely certain; for we find them penetrating these rocks in Jefferson, Stark, Stratford, in Granby, Vt., and in various other places. It is an interesting feature of these intrusive granitic rocks that we find them spread out over large areas, and that they follow each other in quite regular succession, as though one overflow of rock had been followed by another of a different kind ; and it is worthy of GEOLOGY. 1 1 note that the more siliceous or acidic varieties are older than the less sili- ceous or basic varieties; thus confirming what was long ago pointed out by European geologists in regard to the relative ages of these different kinds of rocks. The names used to designate the different granitic rocks ai - e taken from the names of the places where that variety is the prevailing rock. Syenite. — This rock, for the most part, is found in the White-Mountain area, and consists of a dark-gray feldspar, hornblende, and mica. The principal locality is on Red Hill, in Moultonborough and Sandwich, and is about 3£ M. in length, and h M. wide. It seems to rest on the nearly vertical strata of the granitic gneiss, by which it is surrounded. The syenite appears S. of Lake Winnipesaukee, on Mt. Belknap ; and a rock very similar to that of Red Hill is cut by the adit at the tin-mine in Jack- son. A syenite differing from the last in the color of its feldspar and in the quantity of mica it carries is found just S. of the village of Colebi'ook. Conway Granite. — This granite is a typical variety, — quartz, feldspar, and mica. It is the rock at Diana's Bath, the Cathedral, and the White- Horse Ledge. At Goodrich Falls it decomposes very readily, but on the southerly spurs of Iron Mountain it seems to be firm and compact. West- ward, along the valley of the Saco, on the mountains N. of Upper Bart- lett, on Mts. Crawford and Resolution, at the Giant's Stairs, and on the s'de of Mt. Webster, the rock everywhere decomposes. Conway granite is the rock of almost the whole valley of Swift River, W. of the Albany Inter- vale. At Church's Falls, on Sabba-Day Brook, we see beautifully polished surfaces of this rock. S. of the Intervale, Potash Mountain and to the northward Green's Cliff and Mt. Tremont are made of it. In the great val- ley of the East Branch of the Pemigewasset, the terra incognita of tourists, except on the N. W., this is almost the only rock. But some may pene- trate the wilderness as far as the Thoreau Falls or the Mad-River Notch, where it will be found. The range extending S. W. from the Mad-River Notch, including Mts. Osceola, Tecumseh, and Fisher, is composed of this rock, chiefly. It appears in the Franconia Notch, on Mts. Cannon and Profile, at the Basin, the Pool, and the Flume. The Old Man of the Mountains is of this Conway granite, here decomposing and friable. The profile is each year crumbling away. In the lower part of the White- Mountain Notch, on Cow, Bemis, and Davis Brooks, there is a reddish granite that resembles the Conway. There is a tabular granite at the Lower Falls of the Ammonoosuc, and a tvpical variety at the Upper Falls. Chocorua Granite. — This rock consists of greenish feldspar and quartz. Sometimes it has a little hornblende, sometimes a little mica, and is more like a porphynte than granite. It forms the mass of Mt. Chocorua, but the character of it is not often apparent, as the feldspar changes by weath- ering to a dingy white color. In a slide, on the path from Piper's to the summit, the feldspar of the unweathered rock can be seen. It extends 12 GEOLOGY. westward, on the S. side of Swift River, at least as far as the Chnmpney Falls. It appears on the W. side of Iron Mountain, and on a S. E. spur, and blocks of it can be seen in the abutments of a bridge just above the Iron-Mountain Hotise. Up the valley of the Saco it will be found at Saw- yer's Rock, and it is cut by the P. & 0. Railroad at Frankenstein Cliff and other places, where the fresh fractures show the greenish feldspar. On Mill Mountain, in Stark, this rock is found, but it passes on the one hand into syenite and on the other into almost a pure feldspathic rock or por- phyrite. Albany Granite. — This rock has everywhere a porphyritic texture, and is composed chiefly of feldspar, both as a paste and as imbedded crystals. It is largely developed in Albany, along the Swift River. It forms the base of Mt. Pequawket and the cliffs of Humphrey's Ledge. It outcrops on the summit of Thorn Mountain, where it comes in contact with a dark siliceous schist, and a very little is seen at Jackson Falls. It appears on the P. & 0. Railroad in the Notch, and forms the summit of Mt. Willard. Above the breccia there is a vein cutting the Montalban strata, that resem- bles the Albany granite. In the Pemigew asset region it is found overlying the Conway granite, and it forms the summits of Mts. Flume, Liberty, and Osceola. On the bridle-path up Mt. Lafayette there is a limited outcrop, just before we come to the porphyritic gneiss and also above the gneiss before we reach the summit, and it appears on the ridge S. This is also the rock of a considerable part of the Ossipee Range. Other Granite. — A granite, that cannot be classed with either we have described, is found in the upper part of the Waterville Slide. A variety very similar to this will be seen on Mt. Pleasant, Me., but the rock about this mountain is composed chiefly of feldspar. Porphyrite. — The rocks of this class are always of some dark color, but they often weather so that the surface is quite white. This rock crowns the summit of Lafayette, and is immediately above the Albany granite. It forms the summit of Mt. Lyon (Cape Horn) and the ridge S. of the G. T. Railway in Northumberland, but the specimens from these two localities differ in many respects from similar rocks found elsewhere. The rock of Mt. Starr King, although ch'efly feldspar, may belong to the quartz-porphyries. Porphyries and Breccias, with porphyry as a matrix. — Both these rocks varj- greatly in texture, but they are limited to small areas. On the N. E. side of the Ossipee Range, on the ridge most frequently ascended from W. Ossipee, there is a very small area of breccia. In the Pemigewasset region, near the head-waters of the Franconia Branch, on the E. side, there is a considerable area of porphyry, boulders of whioh can be found along the East Branch of the Pemigewasset. Boulders of porphyry are also found at the slide in Waterville. At Farnum's, in Albany, about eighty rods N. E. of his house, there is a porphyry, with feldspar and GEOLOGY. 13 quartz; but as we begin to ascend Moat Mountain, from near Farnum's, we find a distinct breccia, made largely of fragments of schist. From this point, until we get within a few rods of the X. peak of the mountain, the rock is almost entirely porphyry, composed of feldspar, with grains of quartz, and very rarely we find fragments of other rocks. On the N. peak the rock is made up chiefly of fragments of schist, the matrix being the porphyry of the mountain. The very distinct breccia is only a few feet in thickness. On the X. E. the porphyry extends nearly to Diana's Bath. On the S. side of Mt. Pequawket there is a band of slate above the Albany granite ; and then there are places where the rock is composed entirely of angular fragments of slate, apparently without any cementing material, but the remaining 2,000 feet of the mountain is por- phyry, with here and there a fragment of other rock. Dikes. — At the top of the Crystal Cascade the "trap 1 ' forms an inter- esting breecia. At the head of Tuckerman's Ravine, a " trap " dike of reddish-brown color crosses the path leading from the ravine, just before it reaches the plateau. On the Mt. -Washington River, 1 M. from the Saco, there is a " trap " chiefly of a light-brown color, but on the S. side, where it forms a breccia, it changes to a dark-greenish color. At Berlin Falls, on the railway and in the river, the dikes are numerous and of great width. On the side of the precipitous ledges, N. of the railway, 2 M. above the station, there is an intrusive rock, that in composition is a compact feld- spar. The interesting feature of this is, that there is a cave in it which has the appearance of having been artificially excavated. The fact that it is the material that was used by the Indians for arrow-heads lends confir- mation to this ilea Coarse Granitic Veins. — While these are so common there are two or three that deserve special notice. Jockey Cap. in Fryeburg, seems to be one immense vein; and Pine Hill, W. of the village, is largely made of vein-stone. Just above the station at Berlin Falls, there is an immense coarse granitic mass, and extending S. W. it is the rock of Mt. Forist. Recent Time. — Perhaps the most interesting themes of study, certainly those which will most attract the tourist, are the general features of the country, — the mountain summits, the gorges, the high and overhanging cliffs, flie deep-worn channels of the streams, the valleys, the ravines, the travelled boulders, and the general phenomena of the drift. During the cycles of vanished ages, while the immense beds of fossiliferous strata were being formed, a process of slow decay was going on wherever an area of crystalline rocks appeared, so that in some places this decay must have reached the depth of many hundred feet. Then came the great ice age, when the continental glacier was of so vast a thickness that even Mt. Washington was covered by the ice-sheet, and northward the thick- ness must have been immense. From the molecular pressure in this enormous mass, the great ice-sheet moved southward, or to the point 14 GEOLOGY. where it thinned out towards its edges. In its onward movement th« ice-sheet often carried this decaying rock many miles, sometimes across deep ravines and over mountain-ridges. In this decomposing rock were many hard masses that had resisted decay, and these are the boulders that we find carried so far away from their original beds. How great a thickness of rock was worn away by the ice-sheet we cannot determine with any degree of exactness, as the strata have been pressed into so many folds. That it enlarged and modified many of the ravines and valleys is certain. That local glaciers distributed the boulders in King's Ravine and those in the Carter Notch seems probable. That many of the gorges and valleys must have had their origin in fractures and faults seems also probable, since from the Presidential Range we have valleys radiating in so many directions; and still there is a general resemblance in all those that occur in the same kind of rock, even in those that radiate in opposite directions, and it is only when the rock changes that the main features of the valleys change. Transverse valleys and gorges which break abruptly through the strata, as at Dixville Notch, seem to have had their origin in a fracture, possibly caused by the uplifting of the whole eastern portion of the continent. Gorges like that at Franconia Notch, where they are included between rocks of different geological formations, must have had a primitive origin. There are many valleys that are undoubtedly due to the wearing away of rocks by decay, by water, and by glaciers. Some short, narrow gorges, the so-called flumes, had their origin in the wearing away of trap-dikes. Elsewhere the ver- tical jointing of the i - ock allowed the water to penetrate, then freezing and thawing caused it to disintegrate. Moraines. — Although we have no glaciers, yet the moraines that extend aci-oss the valleys show that they once existed, and probably continued long after the continental glacier had retreated far to the N. One of the best marked is in Warren, about a mile above the village, on the road to Piermont. Those about the Twin-Mountain House show a movement dif- ferent from that of the great ice-sheet, and one that is very noticeable can be seen on the N. side of the river-valley after crossing the bridge at the Fabyan House. On the Connecticut, at Colebrook, and several miles be- low, the moraines show the retreat of the glacier up the valley. Minerals. — We notice a few minerals and the places where they can be obtained: Gold, Lyman. Graphite, Rumney. Molybdenite, Whitefield, S. E. of the village. Galenite, Rumney (N. E. part), Woodstock, Madison, Lyman (Mt. Gardner), Shelburne. Spalerite (zinc blende), Warren, Madi- son, Shelburne. Pyrites, many places. Chalcopyrite (copper pyrites), Warren, Lyman (Mt. Gardner), Littleton. Arsenopyrite (mispickel), Franconia. Fluorite, Glen, Crawford, and Jackson. Hematite, Bartlett (Iron Mountain). Magnetite (magnetic iron), Lisbon and Bartlett, and frequently in schist. CtssUeriie (tin ore), Jackson (rare). Manganese TOPOGRAPHY. 15 (rhodonite) Bartlett. Quartz (crystal?), Benton, Woodstock, and Green- wood, Me. Pyroxene, Warren. Beryl, islands of Lake Winnepesankee, Kumney (N. part), Chatham, in the stream near the path to Baldface. Amphibole (tremolite), Warren, Lisbon, and in many rocks. Chrysolite (with labradorite). Mt. -Washington River and Waterville. Garnet, com- mon in many places. Cinnamon Garnets, Warren. Epirlote, Warren (in boulders). Mica, many places. Labradorite, Stark (Mill Brook), Mt.- Washington River and Waterville. Feldspar, everywhere in the coarse granitic veins. Tourmaline, granitic veins about Mt. Washington and Warren, almost massive. Andalusite, Mt. -Washington carriage-road, be- tween the first and third mile-posts. Staurolite, Lisbon, from Mink Pond to Sugar Hill. Small crystals about Mt. Washington. The remarkable size of the crystals of some of the minerals and the brilliancy of others have given this and the adjoining region a world-wide distinction. II. Topography. The White Mountains cover an area of 1,270 M. of the State of Xcw Hampshire, and are bounded by the lake country and Baker's River on the S., the Connecticut Valley on the W., the Upper Ammonoosuc and Androscoggin Valleys on the X., and the frontier of the State on the E. The contiguous parts of Vermont, and the whole area of New Hampshire N. of the Androscoggin Valley, form mountain districts which are closely connected with this alpine region; and the groups of lofty peaks which run off to the N. E. in Maine give reason for the citizens of that State to claim that " the White Mountains extend to the Kennebec River." The White Mountains are divided into two nearly equal divisions by the deep and continuous valleys of the Saco and Ammonoosuc rivers, and each of these may be separated into three sections, — the E. division being cut by the Ellis-Peabody and Moose-Israel valleys, and the W. division by the Pemigewasset and E. Bra-ch valleys. The State Geologist con- siders the mountains as grouped, topographically, in ten subdivisions: 1. The Mt.-Starr-King group. 2. The Mt.-Carter group. 3. The Mt.-Wash- ington range, with a Jackson branch. 4. The Cherry-Mountain district. 5. The Mt.-Willey range. 6. The Carrigain-Osceo'a group. 7. The Mt.- Passaconaway range. 8. The Mts. Twin and Lafayette group. 9. The Moosilauke and Mt.-Profile division. 10. The Mt.-Pequawket area. The term " White Mountains," which is given to so large an area, and which some would have applied to all the region between the Passumpsic and Kennebec rivers, the lake country, and the sources of the Connecticut, is derived from and more properly applied to the highest range in this dis- trict, extending from the N. base of Mt. Madison to the S. base of Mr. Webster, a distance of about 13 M., in the direction of S. S. W. A larger 1 6 TOPOGRAPHY. view of the same range (as entertained by Prof. Hitchcock) considers it as* extending from Pine Mountain, in Gorham, along the line of the Presi- dential Range, and then crossing the Notch and including the Nancy Range, Carrigain, Osceola, and Tecumseh, terminating at Welch Mountain, in Waterville. The length of this chain is about 35 M. Prof. Hitchcock also groups the western mountains into an irregular chain, about 30 M. long, which runs from the Sugar Loaves in Carroll, by the Twin Moun- tains, Lafayette, Pre file, and Kinsman, to Moosilauke; and the eastern mountains form a range nearly 20 M. long, extending from the Carter Range S. to Iron Mountain, in Jackson. But geological, political, or geographical divisions are hardly available for the purposes of a guide-book. Anticlinal lines, township boundaries, and hill-dividing valleys are naturally of less consequence to tourists than railways, villages, and hotels. Having, therefore, given these general ideas of the White Mountains as scientifically considered, the individual peaks will be treated, in the following pages, in reference to the hotels and villages, — the objects of attack in relation to the nea'est bases of operations. The popular divisions of the White Mountains, the Franconia Mountains, and the Sandwich Range will be recognized, and the minor chains will be considered with relation to the summer-resorts in their vicinities. It is claimed that the White Mountains are visible from Chambly, P. Q., about 125 M. N. W. ; from the hills near Quebec, 165 M. N. ; from Mt. Katahdin, the Camden Mountains, and Mt. Desert, in Maine, the latter being 155 M. distant; from Po Hill, in Amesbury, Mass., 95 M. S. by E. ; from Mt. Wachuset, 130 M. S. by W.; from Mt. Monadnock, 110 M. ; possibly from Greylock, in Berkshire County, Mass., 155 M. S. S. W. ; from Mount Equinox, in Manchester, Vt., 120 M. S. W. ; and from Mt. Marcy, of the Adirondacks, 140 M. W. by S. III. Scenery. Gentlemen who, after visiting the White Mountains, have travelled among the Swiss Alps, the Sierra Nevada, and the Yosemite, have said that the scenery of the New-Hampshire highlands never loses its interest to them, nor is rendered permanently insignificant by contrast with the other mountain-groups. The foremost charm of the White Mountains is their almost infinite variety of scenery, inexhaustible in its resources and unlimited in its manifold combinations. Each of the outer villages and each of the inner glens commands aspects of the main ranges so distinct and different as to resemble views in separate lands. Eveiy mile of ap- pronch or recession on either of the roads opevs a new series of prospects, each of which has its own peculiar beauty and attractiveness, and reveals new phases of natural grandeur, new combinations of landscape effects. SCENERY. 17 The most competent critics say that the proper focal points for the main range are at N. Conway, Bethlehem, Jefferson Hill, and Shelburne, and the effect produced from each of these points is different in almost every regard. From the inner glens of Jackson, the Fabyan House, and the Glen House other and still peculiar arrangements of the main peaks are perceived, — new frameworks, varied groupings, and changed colors. The entering valleys, too, by their wide and sinuous windings, give a series of dissolving views, — as when, ascending the Saco, one turns westward from a course toward the desolate mountains of the Maine border and fronts the needle-like peaks of Chocorua, then passes northward along the ponderous ridges of the Moat Range, toward the graceful pyramid of Kiarsarge, and with Mt. Washington in the far front view, then bends to the W. between the dark peaks of Bartlett and towards Carrigain, the vast watch-tower of the wilderness, and finally ascends the wild gorge to the northward, in many places apparently surrounded by sharp-crested and massive ridges. The feature of intemales, the level green meadows which adorn these valleys, is almost peculiar to New England, and adds an element of richness and quiet beauty over which the vast and rugged mountains appear in strongest contrast. The element of color appears in this region in manifold varieties of com- bination and brilliance, varying, moreover, not only with the seasons but with the changing hours of the day. The different lithological formations of the mountain-groups also call forth admiration in their scenic aspect, — the brilliant hues of Mt. Webster and Mt. Crawford contrasting sharply with the browns and grays of the higher peaks; and the vivid colors of Moat and Chocorua light up the landscape for leagues. The deadly pallor of the Percy Peaks, the unbroken blackness of Sandwich Dome and Pas- saconaway, and the blanched crests of Whiteface and Baldface, all enter as elements of variety and interest into the composition of the landscapes. The forests, too, with their intermingling of evergreen and deciduous trees, clothe the slopes of the ridges with changing and restful tints, and fill the remoter valleys with the luxuriant frondage of a primeval wilder- ness. They give rise, also, to the most magnificent displays of coloring, when the early frosts of autumn and the full ripening of their leaves com- bine to produce the matchless pageantry of yellow and scarlet, brown and gold, in which the highlands are arrayed. In respect to lakes, also, the New -Hampshire mountains are highly favored above the Colorado and Sierra-Nevada ranges, having two large and navigable sheets of water within sight of their highest crests, and many lesser tarns scattered through the glens and reflecting the storm-beaten peaks above. Not the least of the charms of this region is the human interest that is attached to it, and in which it claims a high precedence over many loftier and more imposing ranges. The valleys which slope away toward the lowlands are occupied by ancient towns whose names have been familiar B 18 SCENERY. to many generations of New-Englanders ; and the glens are occupied by the descendants of the hardy and heroic ancestry that conquered the wilder- ness and the savage foe. It is no untamed and unoccupied forest like that from which the Coloradian peaks rise, nor yet a fierce desolation of un- failing ice, such as guards the Alps ; — but a land of beauty as well as of majesty, flanked by rich meadow-plains and smiling villages, and whose wildest primeval nooks give birth or sustenance to the great rivers which sustain the life of New England. The traditions of the aborigines and the pioneers have been woven about many of the most interesting of its local- ities ; and the pens of poets and dreamers, scientists and historians, have been busy for over two centuries with these mountains. The route of the Portland & Ogdensburgh Railroad from N. Conway to the Fabyan House leads thi*ough a grandly picturesque region, and affords a comprehensive (though rapid) view of the Saco-River ranges. The Pink- ham Notch is less interesting; and the valley of the Ammonoosuc is not as rich in scenery as might be expected from its vicinity to the higher peaks. The stately beauty of the Franconia Notch contrasts strongly with the desolate majesty of the White-Mountain Notch, and deserves close and loving study. The delicate grace and the tender pastoral sweetness of the Pemigewasset Valley is worthy of equal admiration with the bold Tyrol- ese scenery of the Androscoggin Valley, from Bethel to Berlin ; but the idyl- lic loveliness of the Saco Valley, from Fryeburg to Lower Bartlett, has been sadly marred by the intrusion of unsightly railroad embankments and trestles. Of all the highways about the mountains that which leads from Gorham or the Glen House to Jefferson Hill is the most renowned for scenic splen- dor. The drives to the eastward from Gorham and to the northward from N. Conway are full of interest and attractiveness; and the roads from Lancaster to Lunenburg and to Jefferson Hill reveal a series of brill- iant panoramas. In the southern ranges the road to Waterville has all the wild surroundings of a mountain-gorge, but is unfortunately a cul-de- &ac. The road from Centre Harbor to W. Ossipee affords a series of fas- cinating views of the stately peaks of the Sandwich Range; and the drive from Laconia to W. Alton gives the best views of the lake-country and its environing mountains. The route up the Swift-River Intervale is uninteresting, because high forests overarch the road and conceal the ridges on either side. The Mountain-shapes. — A gentleman once asked a farmer in one of these glens if he did not enjoy the majestic views around and above him. " Wal, yes," said the rustic; "but if I'd had the sortin' of these hills I'd made 'em a little ptakeder" This idea will often suggest itself to tourists, who will perhaps weary of the flowing lines and heavy masses of the mountains, and long for a view of the aig%iilles of Switzerland. It is said that there are but five peaks among the Alps that fall away sharply SCENERY. 19 on all sides; and in New Hampshire the nearest approaches to these are Mts. Adams and Chocorua, Sugar Loaf (in Benton), and the Franconian Haystacks. According to Dr. Jackson, ''Deluge after deluge has swept over the surface of the State, rounding the outline of the mountain-masses, smoothing and polishing the rocky strata, and heaping up huge piles of diluvial matter." The Mountain-views. — After having visited nearly every conspicuous peak in this region, in company, and under favorable atmospheric eircum- stances, Prof. Huntington and the Editor agreed that each should write down, without mutual consultation, the names of the six mountains from which, in his opinion, the finest views had been obtained. The first named gentleman wi'ote the names of Mt. Prospect, Sandwich Dome, Washington, Lafayette, Moosilauke, and Kiarsarge; the Editor preferred Moosilauke, Belknap, Kiarsarge, Washington, Lafayette, and Chocorua (in the order as named). The landscapes presented from the New Hampshire Mountains are of that comprehensible character of which Baron Humboldt says, — " The' prospect from minor mountains is far more interesting than that from extreme elevations, where the scenery of the adjacent country is lost and confounded by the remoteness of its situation." The Lakes afford one of the chief elements of beauty in the highland region, and should be visited by every tourist. The most charming of these is the many-islanded, mountain-walled Squain Lake, which lies between Centre Harbor and Plymouth. It has no peer in all New Eng- land. The Ossipee Ponds are less attractive, on account of their dull surroundings and desolate shores. Starr King's wish will be remembered, that the Peabody Glen should be filled with a broad-bosomed lake, in which the noble presidental peaks might be mirrored. But it is on the outer lakes, Winnepesaukee and Sebago, that the greatest interest dwells. The former is the more beautiful, on account of its multi- tude of graceful islands and the alpine outlines of the nearer mountains; but Sebago has the unique episode of the passage of the Songo, and views the singularly abrupt peaks of Northern Maine. From either of these lake9 |lt. Washington may be seen, surrounded by its brotherhood of far-away blue peaks; and they are equally endowed with pleasant and sequestered villages where the traveller may rest. Comfortable steamboats are foind on each, whose tranquil voyages are made through fair and ever-changing scenes. Visitors to the mountains who demand sensational effects, the close con- tact of lofty peaks, and the overpowering presence of wild scenery, should stop at Waterville, L T pper Bartlett, Jackson, Gorham, or in the glens of the Profile, Crawford, or Glen Houses. Either of these points is sur- rounded with imposing prospects in narrow horizons, and affords numer- ous pleasant excursions over rugged peaks or along picturesque falling brooks. A higher artistic pleasure is, however, to be gained from a so- 20 SCENERY. jom*n at one of the valley villages, — N. Conway, Bethel, Gorham, Jeffer- son Hill, Lancaster, Bethlehem, or Campton, —at the proper landscape distance from the main ranges, and where beauty and grace are combined with the strength and wildness of the inner glens. Either of these villages would serve as a centre from which many short and interesting excursions might be made, and whence the manifold appearances of the mountains, in storm or sunshine, dawn or moonlight, June or October, could be studied and admired. Let the visitor be provided with a few choice books relative to or suggested by the land in which he is sojourning. Thompson's new edition of the Rev. Benjamin G. Willey's History of the White Mountains contains many quaint and interesting stories of the pioneers and their battles with winter and want, storms and floods, the Indians and the wild beasts. The White Hills, by the Rev. Thomas Starr King, is perhaps the most fascinating book that has ever been writ- ten about these or any other American mountains. The florid beauty of its style is enriched bj r copious quotations from Ruskin, Wordsworth, Shelley, Goethe, Thoreau, Whittier, and other lovers of nature; and legends of the mountaineers are plentifully strewn through its pages. It is not always exact in its statements of facts (as when, for instance, it makes the Connecticut River empty into the ocean, at New Haven), and some of the many pictures are more ideal than portrait-like ; but there is no other book that will so enable the summer-visitor to enjoy and appre- ciate the beauty and majesty of the mountains, and to grow richer in aesthetic culture and perception. If the tourist is interested in the natural history of the locality, he can find Hitchcock's noble volumes on The Geology of New Humpshire at the house of the town-clerk (or on sale at Eastman's bookstore in Concord), — telling not only of the rock-foi*ma- tions, but also of the botany, entomology, and meteorology of the State. ' Other countries may possess a richer soil and a gentler sky ; but where shall •we find the rude magnificence of nature so blent with scenes of entrancing beauty, as among our mountains and lakes? ' Believe me, it is because our country is yet unexplored, that her scenes of beauty and grandeur, her bright waters and swelling hills, her rich pasturage of living green, mingled with fresh flowers, and skirted with deep and shady forests ; her fields teeming with life and vegetation ; her mountains rising into the dark blue sky, and blending their summits with the purple clouds ; her streams rushing from the hillsides, and hastening to mingle with the sea, or lingering in the solitude of her valleys, and sparkling in the glorious sunshine ; — it is because these are unexplored, that they are unsung. The time is not far distant, when the poet will kindle into a rapture, and the painter glow with emotion, in delineating our romantic scenery." (N. A. Haven, 1823 ) "Compared with the high mountains of the globe, the White Mountains can indeed claim only a very moderate rank, although higher than many of the most famous and venerated summits of the Old World. They are, indeed, scarcely lower than Olympus itself; and their peaks are inhabited by superior names. Though far below the regions of perpetual snow, they are much more elevated than the mountains of England and Scotland More than all the other mountains of our country, they have long been an object of interest and curiosity, and every year they are visited by many thousands of our people. Compared with the Alps of Switzerland, they want the immense peaks and ridges covered with perpetual snow, and bathed in all the hues of heaven, and the glaciers, those lakes and river9 of ice invading the warm regions of summer below. But their sides and bases are SCENERY. 21 clothed with one of the most beautiful and varied forests, whose autumnal glories are inferior to those of no part of North America, and are wholly unkuown in any country of Europe. The brightest and most varied tints of the American forest are here contrasted and heightened by the dark masses of the spruces and firs, and the bare rocky summits of the mountains. " The view of the mountains in a clear day, when all their outlines and details are distinctly seen, is only one of their many and various aspects. Their changing garments of clouds of every form, color, and combination, give them their highest beauty and glory. One of the first signals of storm and rain is the gathering of the clouds around their highest peaks, gradually spreading and thickening until the whole mountains are hidden in a gloomy shroud. Wnen the storm is over, and the sun is shining brightly on the country around them, the mountains for a time still remain concealed by the heavy piled-up mass. The dark curtain rises slowly from below, some of the lower peaks are next uncovered, perhaps for a moment the summit of Washington is seen, and at length the veil is broken into fragments, which, growing thinner and thinner, are wreathed about the sides, or settle between the ridges. Sometimes, in calm weather, a broad mantle of white transparent misty cloud, like a thin and finely carded sheet of wool, or like a gauzy veil, is laid over the sides of the mountains. After a thousand combinations of light and shade, sunshine and gloom, the shifting vapor at last dissolves and passes away. The forest below and the mountain-tops are bright and fresh after the rain, the new-born tor- rents run foaming down the ravines, — the S. MY. wind blows dry and soft, and you sit and watch the shadows of clouds sailing above the mountains, or stooping for a moment to kiss their summits as they pass. " When the rain-storm has been followed by a strong and steady N. MY. wind, a little cloudy cap often for several days obstinately adheres to the very summit of Mt. Washington, while all the other summits, and all New England, are under a bright and cloudless sky. " The rosy light of sunset on the snow, which makes the Alps of Switzerland so glorious, is not very frequent on the White Mountains. But more than once, late in autumn, after the sun had set, and the mountains were becoming dark below, I have seen the whole snowy pyramid of Mt. Washington glowing like a furnace with a bright and intense rose-color, fiery and brilliant, but still soft and most beauti- ful v (Oakes's Whitt-Mountain Scenery.) " The most romantic Imagination here finds itself surprised and stagnated — every thing which it had formed an idea of as sublime and beautiful is here real- ized. Stupendous mountains, hanging rocks, crystal streams, verdant woods, the Cascade above, the torrent below, all conspire to amaze, to delight, to soothe, to enrapture, in short to fill ye mind with such ideas as every Lover of nature and every devout worshipper of its author w T ould wish to have." (Dr. Belknap) " Now I would ask any of my readers who are candid enough to expose their own ignorance, whether they ever heard, or, at any rate, whether they know anything of the White Mountains. As regards myself, 1 confess that the name had reached my ears ; that I had an indefinite idea that they formed an intermediate stage between the Rocky Mountains and the Alleghanies, and that they were inhabited either by Mormons, Indians, or simply by black bears. That there was a district in New England containing mountain scenery superior to much that is yearly crowded by tourists in Europe, that this is to be reached with ease by railways "and stage-coaches, and that it is dotted with huge hotels, almost as thickly as they lie in Switzerland, I had no idea." (Anthony Trollope, 1862.) IV. History. The history of the White-Mountain region is hereinafter given in con- nection with the points on which it is localized. It is enough to say, here, that the vicinity of the main range was avoided by the Indians, from a feeling of superstitious awe. According to Dr. Belknap, the Indians called these mountains by the name of Agiochook (or Agiocochook), which the Rev. Edward Ballard in- terprets " The Place of the Great Spirit of the Forest." President Alden 22 HISTORY. states that the Eastern tribes called the mountains Waumbekket-methna, which has been interpreted as " Snowy Mountains." Schoolcraft says that the Algonquins called them Waumbik, meanirg "White Rocks." Another Eastern tribe called them Kan Ran Vugarty, " The Continued Likeness of a Gull." The Florentine navigator Verrazano was the first European who speaks of having seen the White Mountains. In the year 1524, while cruising along the American coast, and after visiting the present site of Ports- mouth, he says: "We departed from thence, keeping our course N. E. alone* the coast, which we found more pleasant champion and without woods, with high mountains within the land.'''' Dr. Kohl, the eminent Ger- man antiquarian, says that these were, without doubt, the White Moun- tains. They were also probably the Montes S. Johannis of Michael Lok's map (1582); and are the montanas of Ribero's mep of the Polus Mundi Arcticus, dated 1529. They also appear on Nicollo del Dolfinato's map, published at Venice in 1560, in the " Navigationi del Mondo Nuovo." On the great map of Gerard Mercator (Duisbnrg, 1569), they are firmly drawn, lying to the W. of the splendid city of Norumbega. They are called Les Montaignes on the map of the world which was painted on parchment by the Bishop of Viseu, under the orders of Francis I. of France (in 1542). Montagnas is found in the place of the White Mountains on Sebastian Cabot's map of the world (1544). The Camden Hills are distinguished, on the early maps, by the title of the Green Moun- tains (in French or Spanish). The name of the Ckryslall Hills was given to the higher peaks by Darby Field (about the year 1642), on sccount of the gems which he claimed to have seen there. They seem to have received the name of White Moun- tains from the sailors off the coast, to whom they were a landmark and a mystery, lifting their crowns of brilliant snow against the blue sky from October until June, and visible from Massachusetts Bay (Mts. Monadnock and Belknap) to the seas beyond Portland. The name of White Mountains first occurs in Jostelyn's Voyages, published in 1672. "And there is no ship arrives in New England, either to the W. so far as Cape Cod, or to the E. so far as Monhegan, but they see this Mountain, the first land, if the weather be clear." ( Christopher Levitt, 1623. ) D wight says that in his day the mariners of the Eastern coast claimed that they could see Mt. Washington for 30 leagues at sea, or from a point 165 M. distant. After the exploratory visits of Field and Vines, in 1642, the New- Englanders were too busy in extending their settlements and strengthening their frontiers to pay much attention to these remote wilderness-peaks in a land of enemies. During the French and Indian wars they were occa- sionally entered by parties of rangers; and the Indians often took refuge within their glens from the merciless forays of the troops of Massachusetts. When the conquest of Canada had been achieved, pioneers began to move HISTORY. 23 into the mountain-region, advancing up the Saco and Pemigewasset Val- leys, and facing great perils and trials. Though menaced by the British and Indians on the N., the mountain-towns gave a full quota of soldiers to the Continental army. " The forests resounded with the woodman's strokes ; the hand of industry rapidly, and as if by enchantment, laid open new fields and erected commodious dwellings ; commerce was extended ; aud the means of literary and religious im- provement multiplied Almost all the roads in which they travelled passed through deep forests and over rough hills and mountains, often over trouble- some and dangerous streams and not unfrequently through swamps miry and haz- ardous ; where wolves, bears, and catamounts obstructed and alarmed their progress. The forests they could not cut down ; the rocks they could not remove ; the swamps they could not causey ; over the streams they could not erect bridges. Yet men, women, and children ventured daily through this combination of evils, penetrated the recesses of the wilderness, climbed the hills, wound their way among the rocks, Struggled through the mire, and swam on horseback through deep and rapid rivers." (Whiton.) In the latter part of the last century the movement of the inhabitants of the cities toward the mountains commenced, the pioneers being the parties of President Dvvight aud Drs. Cutler and Belknap. Year after year the number of the visitors slowly increased, and the Crawfords, Rosebrooks, and Fabyans found frequent occupation during their short summers in piloting aspiring citizens through the forests to the upper peaks. The completion of better roads and the establishment of comfort- able inns aided to swell the tide; and Conway began to see the yearly return of artists. By the year 1850 spacious and well-appointed summer- hotels had been erected at various points, and the stage-lines through the three great notches were well patronized. The Grand Trunk Railway was the first to reach the mountain-land; since which the southern lines have been advancing slowly, until now the region is girded and belted by first- class railroads over wh'ch palace-cars traverse the wildest of scenery and whirl around the ridges of the most rugged mountains. It is impossible to estimate the number of summer-visitors who now enter the White-Mountain region. One railroad alone claims to have car- ried 160,000 in one season. It is said that over $ 3,000,000 are spent in the State every year by pleasure-travellers. Fogg's Statistical Gazeteer says that the annual income from summer-tourists in 17 towns near the White Mountains is S 636.000; in 16 towns near the Franconia Mountains it is $300,000; and in 14 towns in the lake-country it is $340,000,— making an aggregate of $ 1,276 000, exclusive of the receipts of several of the great mountain-hotels, the Maine and Vermont border-towns, and the railroads, which would probably swell the sum to above $ 2,500,000. V. The Indians. When the first English explorers reached the shores of Xew England, they found a strong confederacy existing between the various Indian tribes of Maine and New Hampshire, which were then populous and powerful. 24 THE INDIANS. The headship of this union was vested in the chief of the Penobscot tribe, who bore the title of Bashaba. Soon after the year 1614, however, several war-parties of Tarratine Indians from Acadia advanced stealthily into the Penobscot country, and surprised the royal town at night. The Bashaba and his chief warriors and councillors were slain while fighting, and the power of the Penobscots and the umon of the tribes were broken together. According to Sir Ferdinando Gorges's Description of New England, a terrible state of anarchy and civil war ensued, the chief sagamores bat- tling with each other for supremacy, while against the divided league foreign enemies made successful campaigns. The valiant Tarratines marched mercilessly throughout the country of the Bashaba, shattering the power of the isolated tribes, and sending their fleets even as far as the Massachusetts coast, where the Indians of Ipswich were harried by a fierce naval foray. " The strong fought for supremacy, the weak for existence. There was no necessity for the war-song or the war-dance. Every brave was compelled to enlist whether he would or not. The signal-fire gleamed on the hill-top. The war-whoop was heard in the valley. New England, before nor since, never saw such carnage within her borders." The destruction of the villages and their deposits of provisions, and the impossibility of tillage or hunting, caused a wide-spread and desolating famine to fall upon the tribes, already in process of extermination by battle and ambush. In company with the universal war and famine came a mysterious pestilence, which broke out in 1616 on the coast and spread inland in every direction with fatal sAviftness. Entire villages were depop- ulated, and tribes were blotted out. This visitation lasted for three sum- mers, and swept away the strength of all the northern peoples. Morton tells, in his New English Canaan, that the bones and skulls that he saw throughout the Massachusetts district made the country seem "anew- found Golgotha." After the passage of the pestilence and the famine, the remnants of the thirteen tribes of the Connecticut Valley and the White-Mountain region formed a new confederation, designed to resist the Mohawks on the W. and the Tarratines on the E. The noble Passaconaway, formerly a val- iant warrior and chieftain, now a venerable and sagacious sagamore of Pennacook, was appointed Bashaba. . The Indians of New Hampshire belonged to the Abenaqui nation, and were called Nipmucks, or fresh-water people, from Nipe, " pond," and auke, "place." They were divided into 13 tribes, each with its semi- independent chief. The Nashuas lived on the river of that name (mean- ing "pebbly-bottomed "); the Souhegans occupied the Souhegan Valley (Souheganash means "worn-out lands"); the Amoskeags were about Man- chester (deriving their name from namaos, "fish," and auke, "place"); the Pennacooks were at Concord (from pennaqui, " crooked," and auke, "place"); the Squamscotts were about Exeter (from asquam, "water," THE INDIANS. 25 and auke, "place"); the Newichawannocks were on Salmon-Falls River (from nee, u my," week, "wigwam," and owannock, "come"); the Pascataquaukes were toward Dover and Portsmouth (from pos, "great," aliuck, " deer," and auke, " place "). " The eighth tribe built a wigwam city at Ossipee Lake (cooash, 'pines,' and sipe, 'river'), and they were the cultivated Ossipees, with mounds and forts like more civilized nations. A ninth built flourishing villages in the fertile valley of the Pequawket River (now Saco, — from pequawkis, 'crooked,' and auke, 'place'), and were known as the pious Pequawkets, who worshipped the great Manitou of the cloud-capped Agiochook. A tenth had their home by the clear Lake Winnepesaukee, and were esteemed ' the beautiful Winnepesaukees.' An eleventh set up their lodges of spruce bark by the banks of the wild and turbulent Androscoggin River, and were known as 'the death-dealing Amariscoggins ' (from namaos, 'fish,' kees, 'high,' and auke, 'place'). A twelfth cultivated the Coos intervales on the Connecticut, and were called 'the swift deer-hunting Coosucks ' (from cooash, 'pines,' auke, 'place')." The thirteenth were the Pemigewassets. On Father Ducreux's Latin map of 1G60, the Abenaqui nation occupies all the country between the Kennebec and Lake Chaniplain, including the upper waters of the Androscoggin (Fluvius Aminvocontius) and Saco (Choacotius Fluvius). " Moft of thefe Northward Indians are between five and fix Foot high, ftraight Body'd, ftrongly compofd, fmooth Skin'd, merry Countenanc'd, of Complexion more fwarthy than the Spaniards, black Hair'd, high Foreheaded, black Ey'd, out-Nof'd, broad Shoulder'd, brawny Arm'd, long and flender Handed, out Breafted, fmall Wasted, lank Belly'd, well Thigh'd, flat Kneed, with handfome grown Legs, and fmall Feet : In a word, take them when the Blood fkips in their Veins, when the Flefh is on their Backs, and Marrow in their Bones, when they frolick in their antique Deportments and Indian poftures, they are more amiable to behold (though onely in Adam's Livery) than many a trim Gallant in the neweft Mode; and though their Houfes are but mean, their Lodging as homely, Commons fcant, their Drink Water, and Nature their beft Clothing, yet they full are healthful and lufty." (Ogilby's A merica.) After the abdication of Passaconaway, in 1660, his son Wonnalancet succeeded to the chieftaincy. According to the Puritan fathers, he was "a sober and grave person, of years between 50 and 60. He hath been always loving and friendly to the Eng'ish." The Apostle Eliot visited him in May, 1674, and preached from the parable of the King's son, after which the Sachem embraced Christianity in a beautiful allegorical ad- dress. He lived a pure and noble life, and restrained his warriors from attacking the colonists, even during the deadly heats of King Philip's War. After that struggle, he visited the frontier town of Chelmsford, and asked the minister if it had suffered from attacks. The Puritan answered, "No, thank God." " Me next," rejoined Wonnalancet. At a later day he found it impossible to restrain his people from open hostilities, upon which he gave up the chieftaincy, and retired, with the few families who adhered to him, to St. Francis, on the St. Lawrence River, far away from the cra^h of war and the undiscriminating fury of the English foravs. 2 26 THE INDIANS. He returned to the Merrimac Valley in 1696, but stayed only a short time, finally retiring to St. Francis, where he died. When Wonnalancet retired, in 1685, Kancamagus, the grandson of Passa- conaway, assumed the government. He made several attempts to retain the friendship of the English, as is seen in his letters to Gov. Crandall, but was slighted and ill-treated by them, and finally yielded to the impulses of the martial and patriotic party in the confederation. He organized and headed the destructive attack on Dover in 1686, which was the last terrible death-throe of the Pennacooks ; and was present at the signing of the truce of Sagadahoc, in 1691. He then vanishes from history, and it seems probable that he led the feeble remains of his people to the Abenaqui city of refuge at St. Francis. "Kancamagus was a brave and politic chief, and in view of what he accomplished at the head of a mere remnant of a ouce powerful tribe, it may be considered a most fortunate circumstance for the English colonists, that he was not at the head of the tribe at an earlier period, before it had been shorn of its strength, during the old age of Passaconaway, and the peaceful and inactive reign of Wonnalancet. And even could Kancamagus have succeeded to the Sagamonship ten years earlier than he did, so that his acknowledged abilities for counsel and war could have been united with those of Philip, history might have chronicled another story than the inglorious death of the SSagamon of Mount Hope in the swamp of Pokanoket." (Potter's Hist, of Manchester.) The northern tribes of the confederation remained in their ancestral homes for some years longer, under the government of their local chiefs, but were nearly annihilated by military expeditions from the New Eng- land towns. (See Fryeburg, Plymouth, etc.) They then migrated to Canada, and after their mournful exodus the Saco and Pemigewasset Valleys were opened to the settlers from the lower towns. " Thus the aboriginal inhabitants, who held the lands of New Hampshire as their own, have been swept away. Long and valiantly did they contend for the inheri- tance bequeathed to them by their fathers ; but fate had decided against them, and it was all in vain. With bitter feelings of unavailing regret, the Indian looked for the last time upon the happy places where for ages his ancestors had lived and loved, rejoiced and wept, and passed away, to be known no more forever." Concerning Passaconaway, the Great Chief of the Mountain and Merri- mac Indians. The name Passaconaway is derived from two Indian words, papoeis, "child," and kunnaway, "bear," the Child of the Bear being a fitting chief for the tribes whose ancestral insignia was a mountain-bear. It is estimated that the Merrimac tribes had 3,000 warriors in the year 1600, but the annihilating successions of famine, pestilence, and pitiless inva- sions of hostile tribes reduced their number, in less than 20 years, to 250 men. There is a tradition that the Mohawks attacked Concord not long before the year 1620, and inflicted terrible damage on the Pennacooks; and a subsequent foray of the western tribes of Passaconaway's league into the land of the Mohawks resulted disastrouslv. PASSACOXAWAY. 27 Passaconaway was probably at the head of the Pennacook confedera- tion before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth; and Captain Levitt reported having seen him in 1623. In 1629 he and his sub-chiefs granted the coast of New Hampshire to John Wheelwright; and in 1632 he sent in to Boston a culprit Indian who had killed an English trader. In 1642 Massachusetts despatched a strong force to disarm the friendly Pennacooks; but Passa- conaway retired to the forest, and there received a just apology from the colonial authorities, after which he voluntarily surrendered his guns. In 1644 he put his " subiects Lands and estates vnder the Gouermt and Juris- diction of the Massachusetts to be gouerned and protected by them." From this time the forest emperor and mighty necromancer became nomi- nally a sort of Puritan magistrate, administering the laws of the colony upon his astonished liegemen. In 1647 Passaconaway was visited by the Apostle Eliot ("one of the noblest spirits that have walked the earth since the days of the Apostle Paul"), whose preaching deeply impressed the great chief and his sons, and led them to entreat him to dwell with them and become their teacher. He was probably converted to Christianity by Eliot's loving counsels. In 1660, overburdened with years and weary of honors, he abdicated his authority at a solemn senate of the mountain and river tribes holden at Pawtucket Falls. His farewell address to his people was heard by two or three English guests, and was reported by them to have been a splendid piece of oratory. The following sentences are ex- tracted from it: — " Hearken to the words of your father. I am an old oak, that has withstood the storms of more than a hundred winters Leaves and brauches have been stripped from me by the winds and frosts, — my eyes are dim, — my limbs totter, — I must soon fall ! But when young and sturdy, when my bow no young man of the Pen- nacooks could bend, — when my arrows would pierce a deer at a hundred yards, and 1 could bury my hatchet in a sapling to the eye, — no wigwam had so many furs, no pole so many scalp locks, as Passaconaway*s. Then I delighted in war. The whoop of the Pennacooks was heard on the Mohawk, — and no voice so loud as Passaconaway*s. The scalps upon the pole of my wigwam told the story of Mohawk suffering The oak will soon break before the whirlwind, — it shivers and shakes even now; soon its trunk will be prostrate, — the ant and the worm will sport upon it. Then think, my children, of what I say. I commune with the Great Spirit. He whispers me now: 'Tell your people, Peace — peace is the only hope of your race. I have given fire and thunder to the pale-faces for weapons. — I have made them plentier than the leaves of the forest ; and still shall they increase. These meadows they shall turn with the plough, — these forests shall fall by the axe, — the pale-faces shall live upon your hunting-grounds, ami make their villages upon your fishing-places ' The Great Spirit says this, and it must be so! We are few and powerless before them ! We must bend before the storm ! The wind blows har 1 ! The old oak trembles, its branches are gone, its sap is frozen, it bends, it falls! Peace, peace, with the white man ' — is the command of the Great Spirit ; and the wish, — the last wish of Passaconaway." " In reflecting upon the character of the Merrimack Sagamon, the conviction forces itself upon one, that at the head of a powerful confederacy of Indian tribes, honored and feared by his subjects, and capable of moulding their fierce passions to his will, the history of New England would have told another story, than the tri- umph of our Pilgrim Fathers, had Passaconaway taken a different view of his own destiny and that of his tribe, — and exerted his well-known and acknowledged power against the enemies of his race." (Potter's Hist, of Manchester ) 28 PASSACONAWAY. " It is a notorious fact that the English trespassed on his hunting-grounds and stole his lands. Yet he never stole anything from them. They killed his warriors, — yet he never killed a white man, woman, or child. They captured and imprisoned his sons and daughters, — yet he never led a captive into the wilderness. Once the proudest and most noble Bashaba of New England, he passed his extreme old age poor, forsaken, and robbed of all that was dear to him, by those to whom he had been a firm friend for nearly half a century. ;; (Little's Hist, of Warren.) Goethe or Sir Walter Scott could not construct wilder or more fascinat- ing stories than those that were narrated and believed by the Indians and colonists about Passaconaway. In early life he seems to have been a brave and skilful warrior, and in middle age a powow, one of a semi-sacerdotal class among the aborigines whose members were " part philosophers, part magicians, and part wizards." Ore of the Puritan fathers called him the Indian Balaam, and the parallelism between the two characters is certainly remarkable. When the English settlers reached the Massachusetts coast he put all his necromantic arts in operation against them, but failed so signally that he became convinced that they were under the protection of the Great Spirit, and so avoided a conflict with the more carnal weapons of bow and spear. " Hee can make the water burne, the rocks move, the trees dance, metamorphise himself into a flaming man. Hee will do more ; for in winter, when there are no green leaves to be got, he will burne an old one to ashes, and putting those into the water, produce a new green leaf, which you shall not only see, but substantially handle and carrie away ; and make of a dead snake's skin a living snake, both to be seen, felt, and heard. This I write but upon the report of the Indians, who confi- dently affirm stranger things." (Wood's New-England Prospect.) The legend of the apotheosis of Passaconaway on Mt. Washington sug- gests the mysterious story of St. Aspinquid, who, according to the tradition, was an Indian sage, born in 1588, converted to Christianity in 1628, and died in 1682. His funeral was on Mt. Agamenticus, and was attended by many sachems, who had a great hunting-feast and brought to his grave 6,711 slain animals, including 99 bears, 66 moose, 25 bucks, 67 does, 240 wolves, 82 wild-cats, 3 catamounts, 482 foxes, 32 buffaloes, 400 otter, 620 beaver, 1500 mink, 110 ferrets, 520 raccoons, 900 musquashes, 501 fishers, 3 ermines, 38 porcupines, 832 mai-tens, 59 woodchucks, and 112 rattlesnakes. On the mountain-tomb was carved the inscription : — "Present useful ; absent wanted ; Lived desired ; died lamented." St. Aspinquid is said to have preached the Gospel for 40 years, and among 66 nations, " from the Atlantic Ocean to the California!! Sea." Mr. Thatcher thinks that Passaconawa}' and St. Aspinquid were the same, since their age and reputation so nearly agree; and advances a theory that Passaconaway retired to Mt. Agamenticus during King Philip's War, re- ceived the name of Aspinquid from the sea-shore Indians, and died a few years later. The Apostle Eliot and Gen. Gookin saw Passaconaway when he was in the white winter of his 120th year. After his abdication of the Pennacook NOMENCLATURE. 29 sovereignty he was granted a narrow tract of land in Litchfield by the Province of Massachusetts, where he lived for a short time. The time and manner of his death are unknown, but the traditions of the Penna- cooks relate that he was carried from them, in the winter season, by a weird, wolf-drawn sleigh, and borne to the summit of Mt. Washington, whence he was received into heaven. " Strange man was he ! 'T was said he oft pursued The sable bear and slew him in h.s den, That oft he howled through many a pathless wood, And many a tangled wild and poisonous fen, That ne er was trod by other mortal men The craggy ledge for rattlesnakes he sought, And choaked them one by one, and then O'ertook the tall gray moose, as quick as thought, And then the mountaincat he chased, and chasing caught. " A wondrous wight .' For o'er Siogee's J ice, With brindled wolves, all harnessed three and three, High seated in a sledge, made in a trice, On Mount Agiocochook, of hickory, He lashed and reeled, and sung rie'ht jollily And once upon a car of flaming lire. The dreadful Indian shook with fear to see The king of Pennacook, his chief, his sire. Ride flaming up to heaven, than any mountain higher." VI. The Nomenclature of the Mountains. Men of culture have mourned, for many years, the absurd and mean- ingless origin and associations of the names of the White Mountains. Be- ginning with a misnomer in the title of the whole range, they descend through various grades of infelicity and awkwardness to the last names imposed in the summers of 1874 - 75. The confused jumble of the titles of the main peaks suggests the society of the Federal City and the red-tape and manoeuvring of politics and diplomacy, rather than the majesty of the natural altars of New England; and the Franconian summits are not more fortunate. The minor mountains are for the most part named after the farmers who lived near them, or the hunters who frequented their forests. The names in themselves are usually ignoble, and it may be questioned whether the avocations of a mountain-farmer or a beaver-trap- per are sufficiently noble or so tend to produce high characters as to call for such honors as these. Other peaks commemorate in their names cer- tain marked physical productions or resemblances, and this is certainly a desirable mode of bestowing titles. But the farmers who christened them were men of narrow horizons and starved imaginations, scarce knoAving of the world's existence beyond their obscure valleys, and so we find scores of mountains bearing similar names, and often within sight of each other. Others were christened in memory of puerile incidents in the lives of unknown and little men, or of dull legends of recent origin. Some were named after popular landlords and railroad men; some after famous foreign peaks ; and some have the titles of the towns in which 1 Lake Winnepesaukee, or Winneplseogee. 30 NOMENCLATURE. they stand. Others bear resonant Indian names, the only natural out- growth of the soil and the only fitting appellations for the higher peaks. After a brief and superficial study of maps, the Editor has selected the following series of names now applied to some of the mountains in and near this region, to show at once their poverty and the confusion resultant upon their frequent duplication. The names of early hunters and settlers are preserved on Mts. Stinson, Carr, Webster's Slide, Glines, Tom (Crawford), Russell, Hatch, Hix, Bickford, Lyman, Eastman, Snow's, Koyce, Carter, Hight, Morse, Orne, Ingalls, Crawford, Smart's, Kinsman, Big and Little Coolidge, Cushman, Fisher, Morgan, Willey, Parker, Pickering, Sawyer, Gardner, Hunt. Probably Welch, Israel, Green's Cliff, and hundreds of names in Western Maine have a similar origin. There are also summits named for Bill Smith, Bill Merrill, and Molly Ockett, and Western Maine has an Aunt Hepsy Brown Mountain. Farther N., where the lumbermen abound, there are mountains whose popular names are so vile as to be omitted from the maps. Among the Indian names now attached to the mountains are Ossipee, Squam, Weetamoo, Tecumseh, Osceola, Passaconaway, Wanosha, Choco- rua, Waternomee, Kinneo, Moosilauke, Pequawket (or Kiarsarge), Azis- coos, Chickwolnepy, Sabattos, and Pemigewasset. Eminent American statesmen are honored in Mts. Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Madison, Clay, Monroe, Franklin, CI nton, Jackson, Webster, Hancock, and Lincoln. The following mountains bear the names of the townships in which they are located: Campton, Pl}*mouth, Stratford, Dixville, Randolph, East Haven, Westmore, Burke. The Percy Peaks, Mt. Cardigan, and Mt. Dartmouth preserve the ancient names of the towns in which they stand. Some early legend or simple incident connected with them gave rise to the names of Resolution, Pilot, Deception, Mitten, Cuba, Sunday, Nancy. Other groups of names ai*e Cow, Horse, Sheep, Bull, Wild Cat, Cari- bou, Moose, Deer, Rattlesnake, Sable, Bear, Eagle; Iron, Tin, Ore; Pine, Spruce, Beech, Oak, Cedar, Blueberry, Cherry. Popular landlords are commemorated by Hayes, Corning, and Forist: railroad officials by Anderson and Lyon; mountain-explorers by Agassiz, Hale, Starr King, Willard, Lowell, Belknap, Carrigain, and Field. Lafay- ette and Pulaski have their peaks, and so have Seneca and Pliny. Car- mel, Pisgah, Moriah, and Hor are duplicated in New Hampshire and Vermont; and Teneriffe and Cape Horn are here hidden from the ocean. The following names are inexplicable: Puzzle, Silver Spring, Umpire, Goose Eye, Patience. Sloop (or Slope), Thorn, Young. Among the mountains which have been named after some physical peculiarity are the Haystacks, Bald, Table, Giant's Stairs, Double Head, Gemini, Prospect, Pleasant, Sandwich Dome, Tripyramid, Flat, Cannon NOMENCLATURE. 31 (or Profile), Flume, Potash, Sugar Loaf, Owl's Head, Mist, Sentinel, Cone, Avalanche, Baldcap, Baldface, Copple Crown, the Diamond Peaks, Bowback, Long, Crescent, Cherry, Imp, Surprise, Streaked, Speckled, Twins, Green, Black, Blue, the White Caps, Whiteface, Red Hill, Red Rock. The last nomenclatural degradation is found in the various Hog-back Mts., and in the villainous names given to the fine peaks of the Ossipee Range, which are called the Black Snouts by the neighboring rustics. A fruitful source of confusion is the frequent duplication of names on leighboring mountains. Bald Mt. is a common name in New Hampshire md Maine, and is bestowed on dozens of peaks, so that it loses all its dis- :inctive value and expression. Speckled Mt. is a favorite term in Western Maine, where it has several localities. Camel's Hump (or Rump) is found n four places; Tumble Down Dick occurs in Gilead, Peru, and Brook- leld; Haystack, in Albany, Franconia, Bartlett, and Westmore; Owl's 3ead at Lake Memphremagog, in Benton, Carroll, Pemigewasset, Stark, ind Jerusalem ; Sugar Loaf in Benton, Stratford, and the Twin-Mountain listrict; the pleasantly suggestive Rattlesnake is in Rumney. Conway, 3artlett, Porter, and Casco. Hog's-Back appears in Benton and Strat- ord, and on the Maine frontier. Bear Mt. is in Waterford, Albany, tVentworth's Location, and Stoneham. Prospect is at Lancaster, Freedom, Tolderness, and Carlisle's Grant. Black Mt. is in Sandwich, Jackson, l,incoln, Newry, Milan, Peru, and Sweden; and there are two of that lame in Benton. Pleasant is in Lancaster, the Presidential Range, and Denmark. There are also duplicates of Mts. Glines, Monadnock, Kear- ■arge, Saddleback, White Cap, Green, Ragged, and Tom; and the favorite >refix " Bald." besides the many cases in which it appears alone, is com- )0unded in Baldface, Baldcap, Bald Ledge, Bald Knob, Bald Peak, and o on. Still further confusion results from the fact that one mountain some- imes has several names, according to the different villages from which it s viewed, or from other considerations. Thus a certain peak lies between Monroe and Lyman, and on one side it is called Monroe Mt., on the other, ^yman Mt. It is also called Mt. Gardner, because connected with thai •ange; Hunt's Mt., by the U. S. Coast Survey; and Bill Smith's Mt., ifter a farmer who lives near it. Another peak is called Middle Mt., >eeau?e it lies between Chocorua and Passaconaway ; Bald, because of ts bare ledges ; Hunchback, for its low and massive form ; Deer, by the \lbanians; and Paugus because Lucy Lareom so designated it. Still mother was named Mad-River Peak by Prof. Guyot. Tecumseh by a vVisconsin tourist, and Kingsley's Peak by a gentleman by the name )f Kingsley, who recently ascended it and fancied that he was its discoverer. Out of this blind maze of homely and hackneyed names must arise the significant nomenclature of the future. Why should our mountains not iear such noble names as those of Switzerland, the Allaleinhorn, the 32 SEASON. Jungfrau, the Mischabel, the Wetterhorn, Monte Rosa, — names which resound like the roll of the avalanche ? Why can we not equal the Hel- vellyn, Skiddaw, and Catchedicatn of English Cumberland on our more stately mountains? It must necessarily be a slow process, but it has already commenced well, and by the second centennial the entire nomen- clature of our New-England highlands may be reformed. The Alps of Western America are being badly treated in this regard, and surveyors and geologists are allowing their names to be attached to peaks that rival Mont Blanc. Arizona emulates Maine in its Bill Williams Mt., and the depths have been reached in Mt. Jeff. Davis. VII. Season. The most favorable season for a visit to the higher mountains is in July and August, for then the cool air of the highlands affords the most grate- ful relief to the burning heats of the cities. The hotels and boarding- houses are then filled with guests, and parties are frequently formed to visit the interesting points in the vicinity of each. Metropolitan society transfers its headquarters and its modified ceremonials to the shadows of the mountains, and the villages are filled with busy and exotic life. On account of the clemency of the temperature, camping-parties can then attack the higher mountains and explore the great ravines. But, for the comparatively few persons who can choose their own time, who have vigorous physical powers, and who love Nature with an ardent and undivided love, the months of September and October will be found more favorable for the visit. Then is the season of the harvests, of the magnificent coloring of the autumnal forests, and of clear and bland air. Accommodations are more easily obtained at the hotels ; and whereas in Angust the transient tourist is often obliged to sleep on sofas or floors in overcrowded houses, in the later months he is sure of comfortable quar- ters and quiet rest. One of the best times to enjoy the scenery is in late September and early October, after the sky has been cleansed by the equinoctial storm and before the higher peaks have been covered with snow. But at that time there are very few tourists remaining in this region, since the approach of the fall trade and the opening of the schools draw most of the visitors back to their city-homes. The month of June is also more favorable to the lover of nature than the later summer months, because then the air is usually clear and balmy, and the fresh colors of the northern forests appear in their best estate. "From the middle of June to the middle of July foliage is more fresh ; the cloud scenery is nobler; the meadow grass has a more golden color; the streams are usually more full and musical ; and there is a larger proportion of the 'long light' of the afternoon, which kindles the landscape into the richest loveliness In August there are fewer clear skies; there is more SEASON. 33 fog; the meadows are apparelled in more sober green; the highest rocky crests may be wrapped in mists for days in succession; and a traveller has fewer chances of making acquaintance with a brac : ng mountain breeze. The latter half of June is the blossom season of beauty in the mountain districts ; the first half of October is the time of its full-hued fruitage." The higher peaks usually retain their snow until the latter part of May, and are cold and damp, forming unfavorable ground for excursions. Sometimes in September, and invariably in early October, the snow revis- its them, usually to remain for the next eight months. Pedestrian tours should be made in .Tune or the autumn months, be- cause the heats of July and August are too intense, even in the higher regions, to render long-continued physical exercise either comfortable or healtby. The crisp and electric air of Oc'ober is far more invigorating and inspiring than the sultry languors of August, and then the tourist is regaled with the gorgeous richness of the reddening forests, contrasted, oftentimes, with the bright crests of virgin snow upon the loftier peaks. In early June the air is often sparkling and exhilarating; but visitors to the remoter glens and to the forest are liable then to suffer from the at- tacks of mosquitoes and black flies. The lake-country of Xew Hampshire should be visited in the autumn, for the heats of summer usually lie heavily over this section, and render physical exertion unpleasant. It should be explored after the return from the mountains, rather than before, in order to avoid the sultriness of the summer days. The completion of the railroads through the mountains has rendered easy the task of visiting them during those portions of the year which are not in the " season " proper. Already " autumn-leaf parties " have been formed in the cities for brief excursions through the Notch, and the custom will probably gain in popularity and interest. There is also a peculiar interest in traversing this region in the winter or in March, when the scenery is more than ever alpine, and is brilliant in spotless white. Then the valleys are filled with vast masses of snow, the peaks stand out like white crystals against the lucid blue sky, and the higher ravines are filled with incipient glaciers. Starr King says that at this time the White Mountains become " a mimic Switzerland." The ascent of the ridges and the exploration of the ravines can then be conducted on snow-shoes, the traveller gliding thus over dwarf forests and ragged rocks on a carpet-like covering of snow. VIII. Pedestrian Tours. It affords ground for rejoicing to lovers of American physical manhood that walking-parties are beginning to traverse some of the more pictu- resque districts of the Eastern States, in search of scenic beauty and vig- 2* c 34 PEDESTRIAN TOURS. orous health. Foremost among the regions thus visited is that beautiful mountain-land which lies between Lakes Sebago and Winnepesaukee and the Connecticut Valley, including the most majestic and diversified scenery in New England, if not in the Atlantic States. This district affords pecul- iar advantages to the pedestrian on account of good roads, short dis- tances between villages, an honest and kindly rural population, and vicinity to the great Eastern cities. The scenery is of a most varied and interesting character, passing from shadowy woodlands to fertile intervales and moun- tain-rimmed valle}-s, and from the breezy distances of the open lake-coun- try to the imposing ravines of the higher ranges of peaks. There is also every variety of walking-ground, whereby the unskilled pedestrian can take short and easy saunterings along the plains .of Sandwich and the Pemigewasset Valley, the Cherry-Mountain Eoad, or the Saco Valley; the practised woodsman can encamp among the unexplored fastness of the great wilderness of Pemigewasset; the alpestrian finds the noble presidential peaks and the far-viewing Sandwich Range, with many a deep, unvisited ravine, offering high rewards to his prowess and endur- ance; and the fisherman meets the quietest pools, homes of myriads of trout, among the gorges of Albany or through the dolphin-colored Pilot Hills. In the following pages the Editor trusts that every traveller may find something to suit his taste, whether it be for the nobly majestic, the wildly primitive, or the tranquilly beautiful. When the busy citizen has grown weary under the pressure of business or study, and loses his ability to eat or sleep, or to take pleasure either in present or anticipated comforts, let him visit the mountains and inhale their electric air, forgetting for the month his home-cares, and adapting his thoughts to the ennobling surroundings. The sojourn in a summer- hotel is well and beneficial, but the journey on foot is better, since it gives incessant variety and ever-changing themes of diversion. After a few days of marching, he will cease to complain of sleepless nights or zestless meals, and will find the leathery steaks of the village-inns more delicious than the choicest triumphs of the Parisian chefs. The pedestrian tour is of high value to men of sedentary habits, giving them a valuable and needed change of habit, expanding their shrunken lungs, and teaching their limbs pliancy and strength. It is pleasing to see so manj" of the undergraduates of the New England colleges taking up this form of exer- cise and visiting the mountains in small squads on active service. In the course of time it may be that the White Mountains shall be as favorite walking-ground as the Scottish Highlands or Swiss Alps now are, and that the nervous American energy may acquix*e a legitimate strengthening of solid Anglo-Saxon endurance. An objectionable feature connected with most of the pedestrian tours in this region is the absurd rate of speed at which they are carried on. Sev- eral parties of students who have passed through the mountains of late PEDESTRIAN TOURS. 35 years have made forced marches which would astonish even defeated raiders, retreating through a hostile country. No just perception of the scenery can be obtained by any such foot-cavalry exploits, and the exces- sive and unusual strain on the physical system is likely to do more harm than good. The average daily march should not exceed 15 M., and should be much less if mountains are ascended. The inexperienced walker should commence moderately ; though there are but few healthy men of the cities who cannot march 12 -15 M. a day without exhaustion. At the easy rate of 3 M. an hour, this would make 4-5 hours of walking, daily, and this should be done in the cooler hours, perhaps at early morning and towards evening. Ten hours a day are left for other purposes than walk- ing, and for enjoying and comprehending the noble scenery through which the route is laid. In these days of the advocacy of female suffrage and woman's rights, it needs hardly to be stated that American ladies can accomplish nearly everything which is possible to their sturdier brethren. Among these equalities is the ability for a light pedestrian tour, and already our daunt- less sisters have threaded the upward intricacies of Tuckerman's Ravine, ascended the rugged Crawford bridle-path, and visited even the remote peak of Mt. Madison. The Pemigewasset Valley has seen bridal couples sauntering slowly on foot along its Arcadian meadows; and beach- costumed maidens, ranging the woods from their camps half-way down Mt. Washington, have played the part of Oreads among the fair New- England hills. The custom which once prevailed of tourists walking through the moun- tains and putting up at farm-houses is no longer in vogue. The alarming development of the " tramp" scourge during the last few years, and the ferocious brutality of many of the tramps, have caused the people of the New-England rural districts to look with suspicion on all unknown foot- men, and to make their houses as castles against them. Even the strin- gency of the laws of New Hampshire against this class of unfortunates has failed to deliver her borders from terrible outrages at their hands. The people are therefore careful to exclude wayfaring strangers from their homes, and, since the rural inhabitants are not adepts at physiognomy or personal analysis, the hungry and foot-sore pilgrim in search of the grand and beautiful in Nature may often be turned away from the farm-house doors, on suspicion of being a ruffian or a burglar. If he enters at all, it will only be after a long and humiliating inquisition, and then rather as a matter of humanity than as a source of interest and pleasure. The Editor has in mind the ludicrous consternation caused on several occasions by the advent of his party among the scanty populations of secluded glens, resulting not only in grave inconveniences to the rustics, but also in com- pelling the Guide- Book people to march hour after hour by closed-and- barred houses to the more hospitable taverns in the open country. 36 PEDESTRIAN TOURS. The following inexpensive inns are within easy marches of each other: N. Conway, the McMillan House. N. Conway House; Jackson (9 M.), Trickey's Jackson-Falls House; Copp's farm-house (14 M.), 3 M. beyond the Glen House; Gorham, Eagle House; Mt.-Adams House (11 M. from Gorham, 10 M. from Copp's); Jefferson Hill (6 M.), Jefferson-Hill House; Lancaster (7 M.), Williams House ; Lunenburg Heights (7 M.), Lunenburg- Heights House; Littleton, Oak-Hill House; Bethlehem (5 M.), Prospect House,Bellevue House; Franconia (6 M.), Lafayette House ; Lincoln (12 M.), Tuttle's; W. Campton (15 M.), Sanborn's; Plymouth (9 M.), Little's Hotel. The Upper-Bartlett House is inexpensive; and so is the White-Moun- tain House. Other inns of this grade are named in the subsequent pages. A fortnight's mixed tour, including the sail across Lake Winnepesaukee and visits to the summits of nine first-class mountains, could be arranged as follows : — First day — By railroad to Weirs, Alton Bay, or Wolft borough, and thence by steamboat on Lake Winnepesaukee to Centre Harbor. Second day — Centre Harbor to Plymouth, by Squam Lake (12 M.). Third day — Plymouth to Mt. Prospect and Campton Tillage (12 M. ). Fourth day — Campton Tillage to the Flume House (18 M.). Fifth day — Flume House to Mt. Lafayette and the Profile House Sixth day — Profile House to Sugar Hill and Bethlehem. Seventh day — Bethlehem to Kimball Hill and Jefferson Hill. Eighth day — Jefferson Hill to Gorham (17 M). Ninth day — Mt. Hayes, and Gorham to the Glen House- Tenth day — Glen House to the top of Mt. Washington. Eleventh day — Descent by the bridle-path to the Crawford House. Twelfth day — Railroad through the White-Mt. Notch to N. Conway; ascent of Mt. Kiarsarge Another route might lead from N. Conway to Jackson Falls (12 M.), and the ascent of Thorn Mt. (3 M.) ; Jackson Falls to the Glen House (13 M.) or Copp's (16 M.), visiting Glen-Ellis Falls and the Crystal Cascade; Glen House to Gorham (8 M.) and the ascent of Mt. Hayes; Gorham to Jefferson Hill (17 M.); Jefferson to Lancaster (7 M.) : Lancaster to Bethlehem (16 M.), visiring Kimball Hill; Bethlehem to Lafayette House (6 M.) and Profile House (10 M.)i Profile House to N. Woodstock (9 M.); N. Woodstock to Campton Tillage (15 M.) ; Campton Tillage to Plymouth (8 M.) Mt. Washington may be ascended from this route either from the Glen House (by the highway or Tuckerman's Ravine) or from Bethlehem (by railway) ; and the White- Mt. Notch and the Crawford House may be visited during the detour. The Lake- Country. — Wolfeborough to Alton Bay (12 M.) ; Alton Bay to Mt. Belknap and Laconia (20 M ) : Lacouia to Plymouth by rail, and Plymouth to Cen- tre Harbor by Squam Lake (12 M ) ; Centre Harbor to Red Hill and Centre Sand- wich (12 M ) ; Centre Sandwich to Moultonborough and Melvin Tillage; Melvin to Wolfeborough (12 M.) Six days. Meredith Tillage to Centre Harbor, Red Hill, and Centre Sandwich ; Centre Sandwich to Chocorua Lake ; Mt. Chocorua, and down to W. Ossipee; W. Ossipee to Moultonborough, visiting the Whitrier Peak; Moultonborough to Centre Harbor, and by steamboat to Alton Bay ; Alton Bay to Laconia, by Mt. Belknap. In the Woods. — The average walking-time in the woods is about a mile an hour. On level ground among well-developed trees of the second growth 1^-2 M. an hour may be made ; but the progress is much slower among older trees or along ridges. " Fallen timber" is one of the worst obstacles in this mode of travelling. It is due to fires and strong winds, and leaves the ground encumbered with piles of tree-trunks and bristling with spiky boughs. The Editor has struggled without stopping for over two hours to cross a belt of fallen timber less than ^ M. wide. But the most effectual barrier which Nature puts before her mountain-shrines is the PEDESTRIAN TOURS. 37 dwarf spruce-tree, which is found on some of the higher ridges in compact oroves. These trees are 4-7 ft. high, and are armed with sharp and in- flexible boughs. They grow very close together, and the spiky limbs are interlaced with each other in an inextricable manner. It is so difficult to force a way through these jungles that travellers generally walk over them when they are low, and creep under when they are high. The Twin-Mountain Ranee is prolific in these thickets, and other peaks have patches of them, one of which extends across the ridge of Mt. Lafayette, about £ M. S. of the peak. " A young forest looks poetic in the distance, especially if ir is a birch one, and steeps itself every evening in yellow sunset light. But attempt to go through one, where no path has been bushed out, and your admiration will be cut down, as Car- lyle would say, ' some stages.' What with dead trunks that promise foothold, and in which you slump to the knees ; chevaux de frise of great chr.rred logs that bristle with sharp black spikes : openings of tall purple fireweed, hiding snags that pierce through your boots ; snaky underbrush that trips you : intertangled young limbs that fly back and switch your eyes; rocks half covered with moss that wrench the ankles; slanting sticks that lie in wait for your pantaloons . . . ; — the poetry of wild forest-clambering turns out pretty serious prose. It is about like fighting a phalanx of porcupines. "' (Starr Kixg ) In selecting the ground for a forest-camp attent'on must be paid to the two main requisites, — wood and water. As to the latter, the mountain- streams are always clear and pure, and cold springs may often be found. In very dry weather, when the brooks are exhausted, water may sometimes be secured by following down some old torrent-bed, and looking under the large rocks in its course. Having found water, the next thing to be sought is wood, and the stream may be followed until the desired kinds are met. The first requisite is a " stub," or trunk of a dead fir-tree, many of which are found in these woods, standing upright in white decay, and easily pushed over, but retaining tough dry hearts, suitable for kindlings. During the latter part of the day's march care should be taken to secure broad sheets of birch-bark, with which to start the fire. Then several hard-wood trees (maple, birch, or beech) should be felled and cut up into logs, for the backlogs of the fire. It is desirable to pitch the camp as near as possible to these trees, in order to save the labor of carrying the heavy logs for some distance. Having secured enough fire-wood to last all night, one or two fir-trees are cut down and stripped of their small boughs, which are carried to the tent and laid carefully on its bottom, very much as shingles are fastened on a roof, — the tier nearest the fire having their broken ends toward the fire, but the others having their foft parts toward that side. The weary voyagers thus secure a bed which is soft, springy, and aro- matic. Tourists should be careful about the use of fire in the woods or on the mountains, during dry weather. The camp-fires should te well guarded and kept from spreading among the leaves, and they should be extinguished before being left. Serious and destructive forest-fires have resulted from carelessness in this regard ; and, since the woodlands in New Hampshire 38 EQUIPMENTS. are in no sense public or State property, the burning of a piece of forest involves a dh-ect loss to its owners. Large bonfires which have been kin- dled and left on the mountains have spread to the valuable timber below and caused heavy losses. A portion of the Green Hills of Conway was burned over in this manner, and the unlucky tourists who kindled the fire were mulcted in heavy damages. An arduous but highly interesting excursion, and one practicable only for skilful Avoodsmen, could be arranged on the Presidential Range, trav- ersing the whole ridge in three days. On the first day an early start should be secured from Lowe's, and the party could cross Mrs. Madison and Adams, encamping in the ravine beyond. On the second day, cross Mts. Jefferson and Washington, and encamp in Tuckerman's Ravine. On the third day ascend from the ravine to the bridle-path at the base of Wash- ington's cone, and go down over Monroe, Franklin, Pleasant, and Clinton to the Crawford House. This route is feasible only in pleasant weather, since the advent of a storm (even in August) would render an encampment in the higher ravines almost untenable. IX. Equipments. The clothing should be strong and well made, with buttons riveted on, and with capacious pockets. If the pedestrian wishes to stop at the best hotels along his route, and cares to be presentable there, he should carry appro- priate clothing to don at these places. In case of a prolonged tour he would need a valise for superfluous clothing and books, which could be sent by express from point to point ahead. A reserve of this kind would be found of great aid and value under either of several conceivable contin- gencies. A flannel shirt, with a rolling collar of the same material, is about all the chest-covering which is comfortable in warm-weather walking. Linen collars and cuffs are quickly melted by perspiration ; the waiscoat is quite superfluous; and the coat (a light English shooting-jacket, buttoning across the breast, is the best) should be rolled up and carried on the haversack. £hoes should be selected with great care, and should fit neatly. A very tight shoe pinches the foot when the blood settles downward, and a loose one is apt to chafe. The bottoms of the soles and heels should be gar- nished with rows of soft iron hob-nails, to prevent wearying slips while ascending steep grassy hills, and to avert the dangerous falls which some- times result from climbing inclined ledges with smooth soles. If the nail- heads are of hard iron, there will be a possibility of their acting like skates and causing the very disasters which they were meant to avert. The Congress gaiter is perhaps the best shoe to walk in, since the elastic sides afford support to the ankles and room for the slight expansion of the foot. It does not annoy one by getting untied or by kxing off buttons; EQUIPMENTS. 39 It does not harden into a stove-pipe rigidity, as boots do after a rainy walk; and it keeps the ankles dry as low shoes cannot. Woollen socks protect the feet from being chafed better than any other kind. A pair of slippers should be carried to relieve the weary feet at night and when they have been wet. Besides being very comfortable, it is beneficial and refreshing to bathe the feet after every day's walk, and some luxurious pedestrians carry a small bottle of bay-rum with which to cool their ankles at night. If it is designed to attack remote wilderness-peaks or to penetrate the pathless woods, the traveller should get a pair of duck overalls, for there is no material known among tailors that can resist the attacks of the sharp boughs and rugged crags in these regions. The Haversack. — The best way in which to carry a limited amount of personal luggage is in a haversack, which may, at times, be used as a knapsack, or carried in the hand. Strong and capacious haversacks of white canvas, neatly ornamented, may be bought at the trunk-stores in Boston for $ 2 50-3.00 each. They may be worn as a knapsack by having a small loop inserted near the bottom of the inner side, through which passes the middle of the long strap. Two stout thongs should be attached by their middle? to the rings by which the long strap is fastened to the haversack, and upon these the rolled-up coat may be secured during walking-time. Parties who design to encamp among the mountains should be provided with axes, with which to cut fire-wood and tent-poles. It is expedient to have the axe furnished with a closely fitting cover of thick leather, which may be bound upon the metal by thongs. Dangerous accidents may thus be avoided, and the axe is less likely to be injured by rust. A knapsack is indispensable to the forest-traveller, on account of the quantity of provisions which he must carry. This equipment should be furnished with a stout frame, in order to prevent the breakage of its contents. The Editor has encamped in shelter, " A," and Sibley tents, and in bark and bough camps, but for ordinary forest-marching he prefers a light shed-tent, which may be made of nine yards of white cotton drilling, cut into three lengths, which are sewed together at the sides, firmly bound at he ends, and provided with five rope-holes at each end. Canvas tents •equire heavy and well-adjusted poles, and are burdensome to carry; while bark or bough camps are difficult to make, and the latter are leak} 1 - in wet weather; but the shed-tent maybe set up in a few minutes with sticks :rom the woods, — it is light, and it throws off all the rain that can fall on it when in the forest. In front of the open side of the tent the camp-fire is placed, and serves both for cooking purposes and for warming the night air, besides smoking out the black flies and mosquitoes. The weight of a shed-tent of this character is about 2£ pounds. It is set up by running a short pole through the rope-loops on one end, and putt'ng the pole on 40 EQUIPMENTS. two forked sticks about 5 feet high, which are set in the ground or supported by two other forked sticks from behind. The tent is then drawn back tightly and fastened to the ground by extemporized tent- pegs through the rope-loops on the lower end. A good shelter is thus formed on the back and overhead, which is generally sufficient in the windless woods, though fir-boughs may also be piled at the sides in case of storm. A Jleld-glass will, of course, be a valuable companion for travellers in this region. It is preferable, for landscape purposes, to a spy-glass or tele- scope, since it opens a broader field, and is more easily manipulated. The small but costly Tolles telescopes are of remarkable power, and may be used by visitors who desire the most distant views. For mountain- work the field-glass should be covered with canvas, or otherwise ad- equately protected against the rocks and trees. A rubber overcoat will be found of service to tourists who make long excursions in the woods and thickets during or after rain-storms. An umbrella, besides being very awkward to carry, is of but little use in these regions, since it cannot protect the clothing from the drenching splashes of wet bushes. The rubber coat averts all trouble from this source, and sheds the rains from above with equal facility, protecting also the field- glass, haversack, and other equipments. It is also comfortable to sleep in during night-encampments whereto no blankets can be carried. The Editor wore an 18-ounce rubber coat (costing $ 10) during all the storms that the Guide-Book survey encountered, traversing many leagues of tangled forests and jungles, wherein woollen clothing was reduced to tat- ters, but so firm and strong was the light water-proof fabric that it escaped without a rent. Tourists who do not enter the primitive forests, and pedestrians gener- ally, will find a valuable companion in a light, strong-sticked umbrella, which can be used as a walking-staff, a shelter against the sun, or a protec- tion against showers. It will also be useful as a support in climbing mountains, though if it is to be devoted to this purpose it should be pro- vided with a stout canvas cover, to protect it aga : nst the abrasion of rocks and bushes. Every one who enters the pathless woods or advances along the remoter ridges should carry a serviceable pocket compass, by whose aid he may recover his reckoning in case he gets lost. The cheap compasses that are sold in many of the shops are usually unreliable. Alpenstocks and mountain-staffs are useful only on mountains where good roads or paths have been made, or above the line of large vegetation. Most of the mountains are covered with woods and thickets, and both hands are needed constantly to keep the boughs and bushes from sweep- ing the face. It is well, therefore, to avoid encumbering one hand with a nearly useless stick. GUIDES. 41 X. Guides. There are but a very few guides left among the White Mountains, since most of the popular routes are now so plain and easy as to render that profession unprofitable. Their services command from $ 1.50 to $ 3 a day. The farmers who live near the mountains are usually familiar with the ridges and ravines in their vicinity and will impart information freely, if approached in a proper manner. Oftentimes these men can be engaged as guides over ground where they are acquainted, and they are generally intelligent and reliable. No one should attempt alone the passage of the great ravines or to visit out-of-the-way mountains, since in case of any accident resulting, it might be impossible either to get out or to summon assistance. XI. Routes. The rapid extension of the railroads into the mountain-district has sub- stituted for the formerly arduous task of travelling from point to point a luxurious and rapid transit, while by lifting the tourist on higher grades it affords better opportunities for outlooks. The sybaritic traveller now traverses the savage defiles and ascends the rugged valleys while reclining among the cushions of a palace-car, passing thus over ground that was formerly visited only by weary days of horseback-riding on miry and rocky roads. Either of the mountain-resorts may be reached by an easy day's journey from Bostom; and one may breakfast on Beacon Hill and sup on the summit of Mt. Washington. There are several long stage-lines in the mountain-district, including those from Glen Station to the Glen, the Glen to Gorhani, Lancaster to Jefferson Hill, Littleton to the Franconia Iron Works, and Centre Harbor to W. Ossipee. These are served by large Concord stages, drawn by four or six horses each, and afford to the summer-loiterer the variety of a journey in the olden style. The out- side seats should be secured, if the weather is not threatening, in order to get the views on all sides. It is to be regretted that a stage-line has not been established between Gorham and Jefferson Hill, and over the Cherry- Mountain Road. Many combinations may be made among the existing railroad, steam- boat, and stage lines, in order to form routes to the mountains. A few of these are set forth below, and full descriptions of their stations and points of interest may be found in the companion to this volume, Tick- nor's New England. 42 ROUTES. Routes from New York. 1. By the Hudson River and Lake Champlain. This route may be taken by either the N. Y. Central & H. R. R. R. or the river steamers to Albany ; thence northward by the Rensselaer & Saratoga R R. ; up Lake Champlain by the steamboats (or in- cluding Lake George by a short detour) ; and then across "Vermont by the Central- Vermont and Wells-River route, or by the Portland & Ogdensburg R. R. The most direct route from New York to the mountains is that by way of New Haven, Hartford, Springfield, Bellows Falls, White-River Junction, Wells River, and Wing Road. The distances are: New York to New Haven, 74 M ; Hartford, 110 ; Springfield, 136; Brattleborough, 196; Bellows Falls, 222; White-River Junction, 262 ; Wells River, 302 ; Fabyan House, 343 ; (Lancaster, 344). Either of the routes from Boston to the White Mountains is available by passen- gers from New York and the West, and Boston may be reached by the N. Y. & Bos- ton Express Line (via Springfield) or the Shore Line of railroads, or by the steam- boat and rail routes via New London, Stonington, or Fall River. The routes from Portland may also be used by reaching Boston on either of the above-mentioned lines, and passing thence to Portland ; or by taking a sea-voyage on one of the vessels of the Maine Steamship Company, which run between New York and Portland via Long-Island Sound and Vineyard Sound (fare $ 5, meals not included). Portland may also be reached by the new through route from Worces- ter through Nashua and Rochester, Worcester being on the N. Y. & Boston Express Line, or by the Norwich Line (on the Sound). From Boston. The routes from Boston to the White Mountains are : — 1. By through trains on the Boston & Lowell R. R. to Concord, and thence by the White-Mountains Division of the same line to the lake country, the Pemigewas- set and Upper Connecticut Valleys, Littleton, Lancaster, Bethlehem, the Twin- Mouutain and Fabyan Houses, and the top of Mt. Washington (see Route 2). 2. By the Eastern Division of the Boston & Maine It. R., along the sea-coast to Portsmouth, and thence to Wolfeborough and N. Conway, connecting at the latter point with traius on the P. & 0. R. R. for the Notch and the top of Mt. Washington (see Route 1). The Boston & Maine R. R. has a branch to Alton Bay, on Lake Winnepesaukee, whence tourists can cross the lake by steamer to Wolfeborough (on the Eastern Di- vision) or Weirs (on the Boston & Lowell R R., White-Mounrains Division). The routes from Portland are also available to travellers mountainward from Bos- tou, Portland being easily reached either by the Boston & Maine R. R., and its Eastern Division, or the comfortable vessels of the Portland Steam Packet Com- pany. From Portland. 1. The Portland & Ogdensburg R. R., passing Sebago Lake and N. Conway, and traversing the Notch (see Route 5). 2. The^Grand Trunk Railway, following the upper Androscoggin Valley, and passing Bethel, Gorham, and Groveton (see Route 6). Passengers from points E. of Portland can either take one of the above-mentioned routes or go to Boston by steamer, and take one of the routes from that place. Passengers from Quebec visit the mountains by the Grand Trunk Railway. Pas- sengers from Montreal can take either the Grand Trunk Railway (Route 7) or the Southeastern-Counties Railway (Route 8), in the latter case changing cars at Wells River. . Passengers from Niagara Falls and the West can use either of the routes from Montreal or Albany, or pass to the mountains by way of Boston. ROUND TRIPS. 43 XH Round Trips. The railroads that pass near the mountains make series of excursion- routes every summer, with reduced rates on the whole circuit, and coupon- tickets winch cover the entire trip. Some of them publish little pamphlets containing lists of these routes and details of their combinations, with the prices in each case; and these lists are given or sent gratis on application at the offices of their general passenger agents. Among these are the Boston & Lowell Railroad (5 State St., Boston), the Portland & Ogdensburg R. R. (offices on Exchange St., Portland), and the Grand Trunk Railway (at 280 Washington St., Boston). These rates are from the Boston & Maine Railroad excursion-book of 1885 (sent free to applicants), and are here given that the tourist may gain an idea of the ex- pense of the journey. 1. Boston & Maine Railroad, Boston to Wolfeborough and return, 8 5 (limited, $4). 2. Boston & Maine and Grand Trunk Railways to Portland and Gorham, and stage to Glen House, S 6 75. 3. Boston & Maine Railroad to Glen Station, and stage to Glen House, $6.75. 4. Boston & Maine Railroad to N. Conway, Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad to Portland, Boston & Maine Railroad to Boston, S 9.20. 5. Boston & Maine Railroad and steamboat, to Centre Harbor and return, $5.50 (limited, $4). 6. Boston & Maine Railroad, Boston to Jefferson and return, $ 15. 7. Boston & Maine Railroad, Boston to Fabyans and return, $ 11. 8. Boston & Maine Railroad, Boston to Bethlehem and return, $13. 9. Boston & Maine Railroad, Boston to Profile House and return, $ 15. " Summer Saunterings by the B. & L." is the title of a book of about 150 pages issued by the Boston & Lowell Railroad, descriptive of its mountain and lake resorts, which is mailed free to any address upon application to the General Passenger Agent at Boston. It contains a large number of new illustrations, lists of tours and hotels, and complete through time-tables. From its great number of tours to the White Mountains and all parts of New Hampshire, Vermont, and Canada we select the following : Boston to Montreal and return, with choice of all routes $16 00 " " Quebec and return, with choice of all routes 18 00 u " Summit Mt. Washington and return 17.00 " " Fabyans and return 11.00 " •« Bethlehem " " 11.50 " " Maplewood " " 11.20 ■ " Jefferson " " 11.00 " ** Profile House and return, all rail, or via No. Woodstock, and stage one way 13.60 " " Lake Mem phrem agog and return 12.00 " " Plymouth, N H., and return 6.30 " " Weirs, Wolfeborough, or Centre Harbor and return 5.00 " " Weirs, Wolfeborough, or Centre Harbor and return (limited) . . 4.00 44 HOTELS. XIII. Hotels and Boarding-houses. The White-Mountain region is provided with numerous large and first- class hotels, in which nearly every luxury of the cities may be found, together with cuisines of far-famed excellence. The chief of these are the Kiarsarge House, at N. Conway; the Crawford House, at the White- Mountain Notch; the Fabyan House, on the Ammonoosuc plain; the Twin-Mountain House, in Carroll; the Profile House, in the Franconia Notch; the Pemigewasset House, at Plymouth, and Wentworth Hall, at Jackson. The rates of board are S 4-4.50 a day, with varying reductions for tourists who remain for some weeks, — dependent on the location of rooms and the number occupying them, and on the duration of the sojourn. Large reductions in the price of permanent board are made in June and September, before the opening and after the close of the popular season of travel. During the height of the season the hotels are usually crowded, and transient guests are sometimes obliged to sleep in the offices or par- lors. In several of these houses the waiters are students of Dartmouth and Bates Colleges, or young ladies from the New-Hampshire academies and seminaries. Smaller than either of the aforementioned houses, yet in many respects of a high grade of excellence, are the following hotels: The Intervale, McMillan, and Sunset Pavilion, in and near N. ConAvay: the Conway House, at Conway Corner; the Plaisted and the Waumbek, at Jefferson Hill; the Lancaster, at Lancaster; the Sinclair, at Bethlehem; and the Forest-Hills, near Franconia. These houses charge about ig> 3 a day, and make large reduction for permanent boarders. They are well-conducted and comfortable, and, with perhaps two exceptions, have richly provided tables. There are many second-class inns among the outer valleys, whose rates for transients vary from $1.50 to $2.50 a day, and their accommodations are subject to a like variation. The villages on the outer borders of the mountain-district have several comfortable hotels, among which may be named the Oxford House, atFryeburg; the Bethel and "The Elms," at Bethel; the Oak-Hill and Thayer's, at Littleton; and the Sunset-Hill House, near Sugar Hill. Boarding-houses among the mountains are numbered by hundreds, and are found in all the villages and out on the roads on every side. They vary from the large and commodious buildings which have been erected near the favorite resorts down to the story-and-a-half farm-houses, in whose antiquated chambers small families can take shelter. The usual rates in the better houses are $ 7 - 10 a week, and in the farm-houses $ 5 - 7 a week. Lists of these houses will be found in the subsequent pages. Among the best of them are Willey's and Seavey's, at N. Conway; the HOTELS. 45 groups at Kiarsarge Village and Lower Bartlett; the Thorn-Mountain, at Jackson; Lary's, at Gorham; Gates's, in Shelburne: the Hillside, at Lancaster; the Starr-King and Jefferson-Hill Houses, at Jefferson Hill; the Mt. -Adams House, in Jefferson; Dodge's and Fiske's, near Whitefield; Goodenow's, at Sugar Hill; the Franconia and Lafayette Houses, in Franconia township; the Bellevue, Strawberry-Hill, Mt.-Agussiz, Tros- pect, and others, at Bethlehem; Parker's, in Woodstock: Greeley's, at Waterville; Merrill's and Foss's, in Thornton; Chase's, Mitchell's, nnd Sanborn's, in Campton township: Blair's, near Plymouth. All the Con- necticut-Valley towns have similar houses. The number of farm-houses is large where people can get plain fare and old-time surroundings in return for a very moderate compensation. The Mountain-top Hotels. The Mt. -Washington Summit-House has probably as many of the comforts of a first-class hotel as its situation and climate allow. It is a large and firmly built house, well warmed, but indifferently ventilated; and sets a good table. The hotel on Mt. Pleas- ant (Maine) is in many respects the most comfortable of the summit- houses, having broad verandas and neat environs. The house on Mt. Kiarsarge was rebuilt in 1884. The Mt. -Hayes House is a ruin ; and that on Mt. Moriah has disappeared. The Tip-Top House, on Moosilauke, is fairly kept, and has many visitors. A comfortable house, the Hotel Prospect, was opened in 1883 on Mt. Prospect, near Lancaster. The Lake-Country. — The chief hotels near Lr.ke Winnepesaukee are the Senter House, at Centre Harbor, and the Pavilion, at Wolfeborough, both of which are large and first-class hotels, pleasantly situated with regard to views over the water. The Moulton House, at Centre Harbor, and the Glendon House, at Wolfeborough, are smaller summer houses, comfort- able and pleasant, and charging S3 a day. The Laconia Hotel and the Willard House are at Laconia, near Lake Winnesquam. The Winnecoette and Weirs, at Weirs station and landing, are large modern hotels. Boarding-houses are scattered plentifully through the lake-country, most of them being at Wolfeborough, Centre Harbor, and Sandwich. Long Island has two large houses; Meredith has two; Moultonborough and Tamworth have several; and the Bay-View House, near Laconia, is one of the best. 46 VILLAGES. XIV. The Villages. N. Conway for many years was distinguished as the summer-capital of the mountain-region. Its inhabitants have done and allowed many things which have deteriorated from its attractiveness, and have neglected impor- tant improvements; but the Saco intervales, though mutilated, are still beautiful, and there is no place in or near the mountains whence so many pleasant excursions may be made. The hotel-accommodations are suffi- cient aud good, and the railroad communications with Boston, Portland, and the Crawford and Fabyan Houses are easy and frequent. Bethlehem also has large accommodations for summer-boarders, but its environs are comparatively uninteresting. Being at a greater altitude than X. Conway, it is much cooler, a marked advantage in the month of August. Jef- ferson Hill has good hotels, and is steadily rising in public favor. Its environs are of some attractiveness, and the view of the loftiest of the White Mountains, as obtained from this point, is one of the best and most comprehensive in the State. Gorham is the nearest village to Mt. Washington, and there are many interesting places in the vicinity ; but its peculiar charm as a quiet mountain-hamlet is injured by the presence there of the repair-shops of the Grand Trunk Railway. Bethel and Fryeburg are rich and beautiful villages near the mountains, in West- ern Maine, — the former being on the Androscoggin and the latter on the Saco. Lancaster and Littleton are on the W. slope, and are prosperous and pleasant towns, having good hotel-accommodations and commanding broad panoramic views. Newbury, in Vermont, is a lovely village, tran- quil and neat, with a prospect of the Franconia and Benton Ranges; and Warren, if it had better accommodations and a less straggling settlement, would be a good centre for many profitable excursions. Campton Village and Plymouth are S. of the Franconia Range, and in close contiguity with the Waterville mountains. They have spacious quarters for summer-vis- itors, and are rich in their surroundings. Meredith and Alton Bay being shut off on long arms of Lake Winnepesaukee, Wolfeborough and Centre Harbor are the best points for a sojourn in the lake-country, and they each have good hotels and boarding-houses. Wolfeborough is on the railroad, but it has the disadvantage (for a summer-loiterer) of being a brisk man- ufacturing village; while Centre Harbor is a small rural hamlet. The former looks out on Wolfeborough Bay; the latter commands a view down the whole lake. XV. Expense. The expense of a sojourn in the mountain-region varies widely according to the manner in which it is undertaken. Tourists who avail themselves of the first-class hotels and frequently use carriages and guides will find $ 6 - 9 a day none too much — and can enjoy nearly every metropolitan MISCELLANEOUS. 47 luxury for that price. Those who establish themselves in the summer boarding-houses in the outer valleys may reduce their expenses to $G-10 a week, and be sure of comfortable and substantial living. Pedestrians who wish to reduce their daily outlay still farther must carry their own provisions and encamp at night. A pedestrian tour in which the smaller public-houses are depended on for food and lodging will cost not less than $ 15 a week. XVI. Miscellaneous Notes. Black Flies and Mosquitoes. — The traveller among the deep forests and uninhabited glens is apt to meet terrible and pitiless enemies in the form of black flies and mosquitoes, especially during May, June, and July. They come in such vast numbers, and with such unappeasable hunger, that it is almost impossible to keep them away for a moment, and their stings are so sharp and empoisoned as to wellnigh madden their unfor- tunate victims. Various preparations of tar and oil, and other ingredients, are used to anoint the hands, face, and neck, to keep off these ferocious insects; but their feeling and odor are unpleasant, and it is the height of discomfort to march through a warm morning, perspiring freely, and with the face smeared with these abominable compounds. In case of short halts, protection is obtained by making a "smudge," — a small fire en which fresh bark or green boughs are placed. The copious smoke which arises scatters the insects and keeps them away. The night-camps are guarded in the same manner. During breezy days no inconvenience is experienced from this source; but when the air is still, the flies rise in voracious swarms, sometimes attacking people even on the mountain-tops and driving them down. Water. — The difficulty of obtaining water is one of the worst trials in mountain-climbing in this region. Heated by the exercise of walking, freely perspiring, and craving frequent draughts of cool water, yet, from the nature of the ground one is frequently obliged to pass many hours without such refreshment. As hereinafter shown, there are several moun- tains which have springs near their summits; and water may be found in the hollows of the flat rocks almost anywhere, soon after a rain-storm. When tourists are about to ascend a mountain where no water can ba found, each of them should carry a bottle of cold tea, to be drank spar- ingly and at wide intervals. Strong liquors are weakening in their effects when such work as mountaineering is on hand. Clothing. — Visitors to the summit of Mt. Washington and the other high peaks should be prepared with suitable overcoats and shawls, in order to meet the low temperature which often prevails there. Warm clothing is frequently needed as a change by visitors in the early part of the season at Bethlehem, Jefferson, and the Profile and Glen Houses. 48 MISCELLANEOUS. XVII. Circular Tours. Thomas Cook & Son, the well-known tourist and excursion agents, with offices at 261 Broadway, New York; 197 Washington Street, Boston; and in other chief cities, issue tickets for circular tours covering the main lines of travel through New England and the Maritime Provinces, as well as other parts of America. These tickets are, in some cases, issued at re- duced rates, and are convenient in many ways. The tourist can by means of them know the cost of any proposed tour, beforehand, and avoid re- purchasing tickets for each stage of the journey. Programmes of the routes covered by these circular tickets can be had on application at the company's offices. XVin. Books. The best book for sojourners in this region is the Rev. Thomas Starr King's grand and poetic book, ''The White Hills" (illustrated). Samuel Adams Drake's "The Heart of the White Mountains: Their Legends and Scenery," richly illustrated by W. Hamilton Gibson, is a recent book, of great merit. Younger people maybe interested in the Rev.E. A. Rand's "Tent in the Notch " and the " Bark Camp on Kiarsarge." Appalachian the quarterly magazine of the Appalachian Mountain Club, s ahvavs full of valuable information about the mountains. THE APPROACHES TO THE MOUNTAINS. Full descriptions of the cities and interesting localities along the lower portions of these routes are given in Osgood's New England: the Eastern Division of the Boston & Maine R. R. in Routes 37 and 31; the Boston & Lowell R. R. in Routes 29 and 30 ; the Boston & Maine R. R. in Route 38; the Portland & Ogdensburg R. R. in lloute 39; the Grand Trunk Ry. in Route 40; the line from New York, by Springfield and the Connecticut Valley, in Routes 21 and 24; by the Hudson River and Lake Champlain in Routes 52 and 53. The following itineraries are intended only to show the sequence of the stations and the views from the trains. In other parts of the book are descriptions of the villages and localities on and near the several lines where they approach the mountains. These may be found by reference to the index. They cover the stations on the Eastern Division of the Boston & Maine R. R. from Ossipee to the N., the Boston & Lowell (White-Mts. Division) R. R. from Laconia, the Portland & Ogdensburg R. R. from Portland, the Grand Trunk Ry. from Paris Hill to N. Stratford, the Pas- sumpsic R. R. from Orford to "Wells River. Minor Routes. There are also two routes which are sometimes chosen, leading from Boston to the mountains by the Fitchburg R. R. The first diverges from the latter line at Concord Junction, and runs to Nashua by the Nashua, Acton & Boston R. R., and thence to the N. by Route 2. The second follows the Fitchburg line to Fitchburg. the Cheshire R. R. (by Mt. Monad- nock) to Bellows Falls, the Central Vermont R. R. to White-River Junc- tion, the Conn. & Passumpsic Rivers R. R. to Wells River, and the B., C. & M. R. R. to the mountains. Another route is by the lower Montreal route to Concord and White- River Junction, and thence by the Passumpsic R. R. 50 Route 1. NEWBURYPORT. 1. Boston to the White Mountains. The Eastern Division, Boston tf Maine Railroad. Stations. — Boston to Somerville, 2 51. ; Chelsea, 4; Revere, 5; Lynn, 11 j Swampscott, 12 ; Salem, 16 ; 13everlv,18; N. Beverly, 20 ; Wenham and Hamilton, 22; Ipswich, 27; Rowley, 31: Newburyport, 36; Salisbury, 38; Seabrook, 42; Hampton, 46; N. Ham peon, 49 ; Greenland, 51; Portsmouth, 56; Kittery, 57| ; Elliot, 63; Conway Junction, 67; S. Berwick, 69; Salmon Falls, 70; Great Falls, 73 : Rochester, 79 : Hayes, 84 ; S. 51ilton, 85 ; 51ilton, 87 : Union, 93 : Wolfeborough Junction, 97 ; (Wolfeborough, 108; ) Wakefield, 99; E. Wakefield, 103; N. Wake- field, 1C6; Ossipee, 111 ; Centre Ossipee, 115; W. Ossipee, 121 : 51adi?on, 125 ; Con- way, 132; N. Conway. 137 (Crawford House, 164 ; Fabyan House, 168.) This is the quickest rouie from Boston to the mountains, and its trains reach N. Conway in less than 6 hrs. Pullman palace-cars are attached to the trains, in which travellers can enjoy the luxury of a parlor for a small additional outlay. Throughout the first section of the route, seats on the r. side of the cars are preferable, since they give frequent views of the ocean, and the best prospects of the coast-cities. When approaching the mountains, the 1. side of the cars commands panoramic views of the Ossipee and Sandwich Ranges, and of Mt. Chocoruaand 51oat Mountain. Ihe Bection lying between Kittery and Ossipee is the least interesting part of the road. On leaving the Eastern station in Boston, the train runs out across the Charles River, with the populous heights of Charlestown on the r., and the factories of E. Cambridge on the 1. When it reaches the Somerville meadows, the McLean Asylum for the Insane is seen on the 1.: and soon afterward the Mystic River is crossed. Chelsea is then traversed, with its churches and the soldiers' monument on the r. ; and as the long marshes of Lynn are crossed the ocean is seen on the r., with the high promontory of Nahant and the nearer hotels on Revere Beach. The tourist next sees the busiest part of the great shoe-manufacturing city of Lynn, and then speeds away by the summer-villas of Swampscott, viewing the ocean on the r., to the ancient maritime city of Salem, older than Boston, and famous for the witchcraft horrors of 1692, and other interesting episodes of the earlier centuries. The train then crosses the North River, with an island-studded arm of the sea on the r., and passes the shoe-factories of Beverly and the great ice-houses of Wenham Lake, near the camp-meeting grounds. The quaint and quiet old Puritan hamlet of Ipswich is next seen, on the r., with its high church-towers; and then the line traverses several leagues of moorlands and salt meadows, with the ocean-fronting sand-hills of Plum Island cutting the horizon on the r., and stops again at the ancient sea-city of Newburyport, famous for its pleasant environs and antiquated houses, its multitudes of quaint legends and reminiscences. The train here crosses the broad Merrimac River on a massive and costly bridge, whence the city is finely displayed in retrospective views, and the ocean is seen on the r., beyond the Plum-Island lighthouses. On the 1. is the swelling eminence of Po Hill, over the village of Amesbury, where dwelt John OSSIPEE. Route 1. 51 G. Whittier, the poet of New England. Beyond the Seabrook forests the train traverses the broad Hampton marshes, with occasional glimpses of the sea, and a complete picture of the summer-hotels on Hampton Beach and Boar's Head. Stages run from Hampton station to Hampton Beach, and from N. Hampton to Rye Beach. Then comes Portsmouth, another venerable coast-city, filled with quaint traditions and antique houses, and the centre from which many interesting excursions may be made, — to the Isles of Shoals (by steamboat), to York Beach, New Castle, Straw's Point, and the U. S. Navy- Yard at Kitterv. A fine view of the city and the navy-yard is obtained on the r., as the train crosses the long bridge over the Piscataqua River. 11 M. beyond Portsmouth Conway Junction is reached, where the mountain division diverges from the main line. The train ascends the valley of the Salmon-Falls River, stopping at the prosperous manufacturing villages of Salmon Falls and Great Falls, and at Rochester meets the Portland & Rochester, Nashua & Rochester, and Dover & Winnepesaukee Railroads. Rochester {Doilgt's Hotel ; Mansion House) is a pleasant village of about 5,000 inhabitants, situated on the Norway Plains, near the Cocheco River. It manufactures large quantities of woollen goods and shoes ; and has 5 churches and several large schools. It was granted by Massachusetts in 1722, and incorporated in 1792 ; but until the Conquest of Canada it suffered much from Indian forays. The streets are wide and pleasant, and the village attracts numerous summer- visitors. Milton (the Glendale House) has several small boarding-houses, and is near the picturesque Milton Ponds, on which summer-visitors find good boats. Teneriffe Mt. is 2 M. distant, and rises 600 ft. above the ponds, affording a broad and beautiful view. The train now runs N. to Union (Union Hotel), and Wolfeborouyh Junction (Sanborn House), whence a short branch-road runs to the shores of Lake Winnepesaukee. Occasional views of Copple -Crown Mt. are gained on the 1.; and the train runs N. to Wakefield (small inn), a pleasant village near the highland-guarded and historic Lo veil's Pond, —and E. Wakefield, which is near the Balch and Pine-River Ponds and the beautiful Lake Newichawannock. There are several boarding-houses in this town, and 200-300 summer visitors stay here every season, attracted by the number and beauty of the ponds. The line now bends to the N W., and passes N. Wakefield, approaches the high hills of N. Wolfeborough on the 1., and traverses the uninteresting drift-plains of Ossipee. Ossipee Corner (two inns) is the cap : tal of Car- roll County; and from Osaipee Centre the Green and Ossipee Ranges may be visited. Frequent views of the near Ossipee Range are now gained on the 1. ; Green Mountain appears on the r. ; and there is a transient glimpse of Ossipee Lake. Beyond Centre Ossipee the train traverses a belt of second-growth woods 52 Route 1. WEST OSSIPEE. as far as the rural station of Bearcamp, beyond which it crosses the Bear- camp River. The wooded hills of the Ossipee Range now roll back on the 1. and open a fine view of the Sandwich Range on the N. W. At W. Ossipee station the great Tamworth valley opens away on the 1., girded by tall mountains and rugged ridges. As the train passes on, varying views are given of the Sandwich Range on the 1., the nearest mountain being the superb white peak of Chocorua, next to which is the low and ledgy Paugus, then the dark and pointed Passaconaway, then the high blanched cliffs of Whiteface, the lofty flat top of Sandwich Dome, and the crest of Mt. Israel, isolated on the plain. The pyramidal Whittier Peak is seen at the end of the Ossipee Range, and the alpine heights to the N. gradually fall behind each other as the train advances. On the r., the Green Mountain in Effingham is frequently seen while passing N. from Ossipee Corner, and a glimpse of Kiarsarge is also ob- tained far in advance. Soon after leaving W. Ossipee, Silver Lake is seen close at hand, and its white sandy beaches are followed for a long distance ■with Gline Mountain beyond and Madison Village at the head of the lake. On the 1. are the great E. outworks and craggy buttresses of Chocorua, and the view soon includes the sharp S. peak of Moat Mountain, in ad- vance. The country about the railway is covered with dense thickets and second-growth trees, and is cheerless in character. Just before reaching Conway Corner, Frost Mountain and the Burnt-Meadow Mountains in Brownfield are visible; and as the train slows up at Conway, a glimpse of Mt. Pleasant (in Maine) is gained on the r. front over the village. From Conway the view includes Chocorua on the 1., separated by the Swift-River Valley from the long flanks of Moat Mountain, near at hand, on whose r. is the Mt. -Washington range, the next blue peaks being Wild-Cat and Carter Dome, between which is the cleft of the Carter Notch. R. of these is the lower swell of Thorn Mountain, with the truncated pyra- mid of Double-Head and the graceful cone of Kiarsarge. The train soon swings around to the X. W., and advances between the Moat Range on the 1. and the Green Hills on the r., crossing the Saco River and travers- ing the renowned intervales of that stream. After running for several miles over these rich and verdant meadows, the boarding-houses of N. Conway are seen on the r., and the White-Horse and Cathedral Ledges draw near on the 1. The tower of the Kiarsarge House rises towards Mt. Kiarsarge, and the train soon runs up to the station in N. Con- way. North Conway, see Route 11. LOWELL. —NASHUA. Route 2. 53 2 Boston to the Franconia and While Mountains. The Boston between the Merrimac and Connecticut Valleys, traversing an almost unbroken forest over which the S. peak of Moosilauke is often seen. Near the Summit the train passes through a rock-cutting § M. long, and in some places 60 ft. deep. This cut cost $ 150,000, requiring the labor of 150 men for a year and a half (1851-2). On the r. are seen the S. peak and central ridges of Moosilauke, but slightly foreshortened by the angle of vision. As the descent toward the Connecticut Valley is commenced the fine cliffs of Owl's Head are seen on the r., nearly perpendicular, and of a dark purplish color. From E. Haverhill a good view is gained of Black Mountain and Sugar Loaf, on the r., with the upper ridge and hotel on Moosilauke visible over Blueberry Mountain, in retrospect. These peaks remain in sight for several miles as the train descends to the N. W., along the alder-fringed valley of the Oliverian Brook. At Haverhill the Connecticut Valley is reached, and the line turns to the N-, giving frequent views of the exquisite meadows of Newbury, with the hamlet of that name beyond the river and under Mt. Pulaski. This is one of the most fascinating sections of the route, the grace and loveli- ness of the broad intervales and winding river being contrasted with the savage aspect of the adjacent mountains. Passing through N. Haverhill, the new village of Woodsville is soon reached, whence the Connecticut is crossed to Wells River, the junction of the Connecticut & Passumpsic Rivers Railroad, the Montpelier & Wells-River Railroad, and the present route. The train recrosses the river, with Mt. Gardner on the 1., and commences WHTTEFIELD. — LANCASTER. Route 3. 57 the accent of the Ammonoosuc Valley, crossing to the N. bank near the inflowing of the Wild Ammonoosuc. The nearer hills and forests shut out the mountain-views for many miles. Bath is a quiet old hamlet on the S. bank, beyond which the river is again crossed, and the village of Lisbon is soon s^een on the 1., in the valley below. The course is now to the X. E., and Littleton ( Oak-Hill Houst ; Thayer's) is soon reached, with the high school and the Oak-Hill House conspicuous on the ridge beyond, and several small factories by the river-side. From this point stages run to the Franconia Notch. Beyond Littleton the line passes Scytheville and Alder-Brook station, and soon l-eaches the junction at Wing Road. The peak of Mt. Lafayette is visible from this point, and one of the best distant views of the Twin Mountains is obtained thence. The Mt. Washington Branch, see Route 3. The main line continues to the N. E., through a more rugged region, and soon reaches WhiUjield, whence a railroad diverges to the summer-resorts at Jefferson Hill; there also the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad diverges to the westward. In the valley below are the immense lumber-mills of the Brown Lumber Company. The course of John's River is now followed as far as Dalton station, a short distance N. of the little riverside village of the same name. Rounding the Martin-Meadow Hills, and running over the fair intervales of the Connecticut River, with Lunenburg Heights on the 1.. the train soon reaches the beautiful village of Lancaster {Lancaster Houst) t the capital of Coos County. Trie dark ridges of the Pilot Range are seen on the r., as the train runs N. E. over the Connecticut meadows, through the village of Northumberland, with Cape Horn on the r. and the Guildhall hills on the 1. (.limpses are gained of the Percy Peaks, in front, and the end of the line is soon reached, at Groveton Junction, where it connects with the Grand Trunk Railway (Route 7). 3. Boston and the West to the White Mountains. The Mt. -Washington Brunch Railroad, Travellers who approach the mountains on the W. will enter the remoter defiles hy this branch, which diverges from the main line at Wing Road. The scenery is not ail that might be wished or supposed, from the proximity of the mountains, because the route lies in the deep valley of the Ammonoosuc, and is often enclosed in dense forests. Stations. — Wells River to Wing Road, 27 M. ; Bethlehem, 31 j Twin-Mountain House, 3o ; White-Mountain House, 40; Fabyan House, 41; Base of Mt. Washing- ton, 47. The train runs S. W. from Winy Road, closely following the course of the Ammonoosuc River, into a more primitive region. Although Bethle- hem is but 1-2 M. to the S., it is not seen, although a glimpse of Mt. Agassiz is obtained on the r., as Bethlehem Hollow is approached ; and soon afterwards there is a fine view of Mts. Lafavette and Garfield, the 3* 58 Routed MT. -WASHINGTON BRANCH. Twin Mountains and Mt. Hale. From Bethlehem Junction narrow- gauge railways run up to the great hotels of Maplewood and Bethlehem, and in to the Profile House. The town of Carroll is now entered, and a prospect of Lafayette, Garfield, and the immense N. Twin Mountain is gained on the r. The Twin-Mountain House is next seen, on the 1., across the river, standing out in bright relief against the dark hillside. Then a portion of Mt. Hale comes into sight on the r., with the lower eminences of the Sugar Loaves. The winding and rapid river is still followed, and the desecrated Am- monoosuc Falls are seen on the r., with much of their natural beauty marred by the intrusion of a saw-mill. Wider plains are now reached, with the dull Mt. Deception on the 1. and the lower foot-hills of the Rose- brook Range on the r. Near the White-Mountain House (on the I.), sudden views of the Presidential Range break upon the sight; and the tourist is soon before the Fabyan House, at the intersection of the present route with the Portland and Ogdensburg R. R. (Route 5 ) Beyond this point the train advances directly toward Mt. Washington, up the Am- monoosuc Valley, and with occasional views of the great mountains in advance. About £ M. from Marshfield it connects with the celebrated Mt.- Washington Railway. (See Route 92.) 4. Boston to the Lake-Country of New Hampshire. The Boston cf- Maine Railroad. Stations. — Boston to Somerville, 2 M. ; Edgeworth, 3 ; Maiden, 5 ; OakGrore, 6; Wyoming, 7; Stoneham,8; Greenwood, 9; Wakefield, 10 ; Reading, 12 ; Reading Highlands, 13 ; Wilmington, 16 ; Wilmington Junction, 18; Ballardvale, 21 ; An- dover, 23; S. Lawrence, k6 ; N. Andover, 28; Bradford, 33 ; Haverhill, 33] ; Atkin- son, 37; Plait-tow, 38; Newton Junction, 41; E. Kingston, 45; Exeter, 50; S. Newmarket, 54 ; Newmarket Junction, 55 ; Newmarket, 57 : Durham, 62; Madbury, 64; Dover, 68 ; Pickering's, 74; Gonic, 76; Rochester, 78; Place's, 82; Farming- ton, 86 ; Davis, 90 ; New Durham, 92 ; Alton, 95 ; Alton Bay, 96. The train runs out from the Boston station across the Charles River, between Charlestown and E. Cambridge, and then passes through' Somer- ville, near the track of the Eastern Division. After crossing the broad Mystic River, it traverses Medford and approaches the curving hills of Maiden. The suburban stations of Wyoming, Melrose, and Stoneham are passed rapidly, and beyond Crystal Lake(l side) the large and prosperous villace of Wakefield is entered. Lake Quanapowitt is next seen (on the r.), and the line traverses the towns of Beading and Wilmington, where it intersects the Salem & Lowell Railroad. Andover is a pleasant old Puritan village, amid pretty rural scenery, and is famous as the seat of the Congregational Theological Seminary, which was founded in 1808, and has educated over 2,600 ministers. There are several other educational institutions at this place. The train then reaches the Merrimac Biver, and passes Lawrence, one of the most beautiful of the manufacturing PORTLAND & OGDENSBURG R. R. Route 5. 59 cities of New England. It has nearly 40,000 inhabitants, with 18 churches, 2 daily papers, a fine city hall, and a large and imposing Catholic church. Lawrence was founded in 1844, and is celebrated for its manufactures of cottf n and woollen cloths and other goods. The train now follows the r. bank of the Merrimac to Bradford, where it crosses to Haverhill, a pleasant city of Essex North, 18 M. from the sea. It has about 20,000 inhabitants, and is largely engaged in the man- ufacture of shoes. Beyond this point the line enters New Hampshire, passing through the rural towns of Rockingham County to Exeter, an an- cient village in which is located Phillips Academy, the Eton of New Eng- land. Traversing agricultural Newmarket (where the Concord & Ports- mouth Railroad is crossed), hay-producing Durham, and level Madbury, the train reaches the busy little manufacturing city of Dover, on the Co- checo River. This is the oldest settlement in New Hampshire, dating from 1623; and was nearly destroyed by a fierce Indian attack in 1689. The branch line to the lake runs N. W. from Dover up the Cocheco Valley, intersecting several other railroads at Rochester (see Route 1). It then traverses the town of Farmington, in which Henry Wilson was bora in 1812; and on the 1. the Strafford Blue Hills nre visible. It crosses New Durham, with glimpses of Copple Crown on the r., and running by the hamlet of Alton, soon reaches the terminus at Alton Bay, where the steamboat Mt. Washington is in waiting to carry passengers out over Lake Winnepesaukee. 5. Portland to the White Mountains. The Portland . E. along a natural terrace, past the Spectacle Pond, and down the long Nulhegan Valley, through a vast forest where lonely ridges rise in rapid succession. The Connecticut River is crossed by a bridge 32Q ft. long, near N. Stratford, with the long and massive GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY. Route 7. G7 Bowback Mountain on the 1., and on the r. the N. and S. Notch Mountains, about the Smuggler's Notch, in Brunswick. The line now follows the Connecticut Valley for 12 M., over meadows prolific in corn, hay, and oats, and bordered by mountains on either side. The scenery is a combi- nation of the beautiful and the frowning, and is of high interest to the trav- eller. The blanched summits of the Percy Peaks are soon seen on the 1., and remain in sight for nearly 8 M., being slowly rounded by the railroad. Beyond Stratford Hollow the line deflects to the S. E., and soon leaves the Connecticut River, passing over to the Ammonoosuc, with Cape Horn and the Pilot Mountains on the r., and the rich plain of Lancaster beyond. At Groveton Junction the Grand Trunk line meets the Boston & Lowell Radroad (White-Mts. Division) (Route 2), and passengers for Lancaster, the Franconia Mountains, etc., change cars. Soon after starting from Groveton Junction the Grand Trunk train stops at Groveton village, and then crosses the Ammonoosuc River, wirh Cape Horn and Mt. Bellamy on the r., and the Percy Peaks and Bowback Moun- tain on the 1. front and 1. Portions also of the Stratford and Sugar-Loaf Mountains are seen to the N. ; and on the other side the Pilot Mountains soon swing into view. As the train speeds to the E., the S. peak of the Percies advances over the higher N peak, and finally eclipses it. The line leaves the river for about 4 M , and runs under the Pilot Mountains, then crosses the river and stops at Stark, with the precipice of the Devil's Slide on the 1., and Mill Mountain close at hand on the r. The former is a sheer cliff 6(0 feet high, and bears evidence of ancient natural convul- sions. Mill Mountain is 2,000 ft. high, and is sometimes ascended from Stark by a walk of 1 J M. through the woods. Beyond Starkwater station fine views are given on the r. and in retrospect, including the Pilot and Crescent Ranges, the Percy Peaks, and Green's Ledge (sharply cut off on the S.)- These summits are seen to good advantage across wide and apparently level plains, and present a specially fine prospect to travellers on the late afternoon trains. Just before and after leaving the station at W. Milan the traveller avIio looks forward from the r. side of the train gains a beautiful distant view of the Presidential Range, which is ar- ranged in stately order. The line now leaves the banks of the rapid Ammonoosuc, and follows the course of Dead River through a dull and uninteresting country. At the lonely water-station of Milan the track is 1080 ft. above the sea. Head Pond is soon passed, on the r., and the trav- eller gains frequent glimpses of t^e White Mountains on the r. The train soon crosses to the course of another Dead River, passes a small pond, and approaches Berlin Falls. On the 1., over the diverging track of the Berlin Lumber Company, the far-away blue peak of Goose Eye is seen; and the train soon passes the fine cliffs of Mt. Forist, and stops at Berlin Falls. Between Berlin Falls and Gorham there is a high descending grade, the track falling at the rate of 50 ft. to the mile. Occasionnl glimpse^ of the Androscoggin River are gained, and on either side are mountain-range>. 68 Route 8. SOUTH-EASTERN RAILWAY. 8. Montreal to the White Mountains. The South- East em Railway. This route is over the upper portion of the Montreal & Boston Air Line, passing through an interesting section of Canada and Vermont, and near Jay Peak, Lake Memphremagog, and Willoughby Lake. The cars are changed at Wells River, where the mountain-trains are met. Stations.— Montreal to St. Johns, 27M.; S., S. & C. Junction, 29' : Versailles, 34; W. Farnham. 41 ; Farndon, 46 ; Brisham, 48: E Farnham, 51: Cowansville, 54; Sweetsburg, 56 ; W. Broir.e, 59; Sutton Junction, 63; Sutton Flat. 66 ; Aber- corn, 72; Richford, 75 : E. Richford, 80; Mansonville, 89; N. Troy, 92; Newport Centre, 98 ; Newport, 106. Coventry, 111 ; Barton Landing, 115 ; Barton, 121 ; S. Barton, 125 ; Summit, 128 ; W. Burke, 134; Lyndonville, 142: Lyndon, 143: St.-Johnsbury Centre, 147£ ; St. Johnsbury, 150 ; Passumpsic, 153} Norrisville, 157; Barnet, 160; Mclndoes, 163 ; Rvegate, 187 : Wells River. 171. Lancaster, 213 ; Fabyan House, 212 ; Plymouth, 213; Weirs, 231. The trains of this line follow the Grand Trunk Railway as far as St. Johns, where they diverge to the E. and cross the Canadian county of Missisquoi, stopping at the stations of W. Farnham and W. Brome. Beyond Sutton the massive highlands which culminate in Jay Peak are approached, and the line soon enters Vermont, crosses the town of New- port, and reaches the village of that name, on Lake Memphremagog (see Osgood's New England). A train now passes on to the rails of the Pas- sumpsic R. R., and runs S. by Crystal Lake and Barton village, crossing the St.-Lawrence water-shed near S.-Barton station, whence .lay Peak is seen in the N. W. From W. Burke the charming excursion to Willoughby Lake (6 M. N.) maybe made. The boM Burke Mt. is then passed, and at Lyndonville the headquarters of the Passumpsic R. R. ai-e seen. St. Johnsbury (two good hotels) is a rich and prosperous town of 5,000 inhabitants, with an athenaeum, an art-gallery, a large academy, and a soldiers' monument ('' Crowning the Fallen Heroes"). The immense manufactories of Fairbanks' scales are established here, employing 500- 600 men. At St. Johnsbury the route crosses the St. Johnsbury & Lake- Champlain R. R. The train runs S. along the Passumpsic River, by McLeran's Falls and Barnet (famed for butter), to the mills at Mclndoes Falls, on the Connecticut. The long ridge of Mt. Gardner now appears on the E., and is followed down to Wells River. Wells River to the White Mts., see Routes 2 and 3. 9. Saratoga and Lake George to the White Mountains. The most direct route between these points is by Rutland and Bellows Falls, and up the Connecticut Valley. This line leads through the beau- tiful scenery of Southern Vermont and the lower Green Mts., and trav- ersis several famous old towns in that region. The road is one of the best in the country, aud is equipped with Pullman cars and other luxuries of CONNECTICUT VALLEY. Route 9a. 68 a travel. The rails are of steel, with firm fish-plate joints ; and the bridges are of stone or iron. Trains run by telegraph and station-signals, and are equipped with air-brakes and Miller platforms. A short time after leaving Saratoga the train crosses the Hudson River at the classic old village of Fort Edward, famous for 200 years in the annals of the French and Indian wars ; and passes up to Fort Ann, the site of another renowned border fortress, between the Cossayuna highlands and the Palmertown Mts. Whitehall is the next station, at the foot of Lake Champlain, and an important point in the naval history of the lake, though now chiefly known for its lumber-mills. Soon afterwards, Vermont is entered, and several villages are passed at the foot of Lake Bomaseen ; and Castleton, a pretty academic village, producing slate in vast quanti- ties and for many uses. At W. Rutland are quarries of pure white mar- ble, with a national reputation. Rutland is a prosperous and pleasant town of 10,000 inhabitants, enjoying the distinction of being the metropo- lis of lower Vermont, and the headquarters of the marble trade. There are several handsome churches and public buildings here ; and in the neighborhood are attractive excursions, to the Clarendon Springs, the Killington Peaks, and the Sutherland Falls. Beyond Rutland the line ascends the Green Mts., passing the Claren- dons, and running near the great Shrewsbury Peak. After ascending 1,000 ft. in 18 M., it reaches Summit, the highest point in the pass ; and thence runs down heavy grades to Healdville and Ludlow, and the bright hamlet of Proctorsville, near the Black-River cascades and the quarries of serpentine marble. The descent of the E. slope of the Green Mts. con- tinues, by Chester and Rockingham, and the grades swing around the winding valley of the Williams River, to Bellows Falls, —a very pic- turesque village on the Connecticut River, near the white rapids which give it name. (See Routes 9 a and 10.) da. New York to the White and Franconia Mountains. The shortest and quickest route is that by way of New Haven, Hart- ford, Springfield, and the Connecticut Valley. No other line runs draw- ing-room cars through from New York to the mountains without change, avoiding the annoyance of changes and transfers, and giving opportunity for undisturbed enjoyment. Leaving New York at about 8 in the morn- ing, the train reaches Littleton in about 11 hrs., and Fabyan's in 12 hrs. Stops are made at Springfield for dinner, and at White-River Junction for supper. The ride from the mountains to New York by this route takes somewhat more time, with dinner at White-River Junction and supper at Springfield, — the difference in time being due to the longer pauses at these two points. The early stages of this route are familiar to all New-England travellers. 68 b Route 9a. CONNECTICUT VALLEY. Through the suburban villages of Westchester County, and around by New Rochelle and Rye into Connecticut, the Land of Steady Habits, where the line follows the shore of Long-Island Sound for many miles. It passes wealthy old Greenwich, with its stately churches ; Stamford, the aristocratic summer-resort of New- York families, with beautiful villas on the surrounding hills; S. Norwalk, now a quarter of a millenium old; Fairfield, a lovely English-looking hamlet, with venerable trees and sandy beaches; Bridgeport, the rich and prosperous manufacturing city, famous for sewing-machines and fire-arms; Stratford, peaceful as a nunnery clois- ter; and Milford, another quiet and serene old shore-town. Beyond great New Haven, with its 60,000 inhabitants, wide commerce, romantic history, and venerable halls of Yale College, the train sweeps by East Rock and across Mill River, and then ascends the Quinuipiac Valley to Wallingford, a busy village on a high hill. Next comes Meri- den, famous for its britannia- works and cutlery; and Berlin, where tin- ware is made in large quantities. Hartford, the Queen City, with 50,000 inhabitants, beautiful churches, the great marble Capitol of Connecticut, the Episcopal halls of Trinity College, and rich literary and historic asso- ciations, is next passed through. Beyond Hartford the train runs N. to antique and tobacco-bearing Windsor; crosses the Farmington River on a red sandstone viaduct; and meets the Connecticut River at Windsor Locks. At Warehouse Point the great river is crossed on a long and costly iron-truss bridge; and Thomp- sonville, the seat of large carpet- works, is succeeded rapidly by the rural plains of Longmeadow. Springfield comes next, and dinner. Here are 35,000 active Yankee citizens, the great U. S. Armory, beautiful river- environs, and the crossing of the Boston & Albany Railroad. From this point the Connecticut- River Railroad is followed, up the beautiful valley which is the garden of New England, by busy Chicopee, paper-making Holyoke, and delicious old Northampton, past the bold mountains of the Holyoke range, northward over the classic plains of Deerfield, through umbrageous Greenfield, and out into Vermont. The route still follows the river, by the industrious and picturesque town of Brattleboro', and through a line of quiet Vermont hamlets, to Bellows Falls, where it meets the line from Rutland and Saratoga. Now in New Hampshire and now in Vermont, the train rushes still northward, by Windsor and Mount Ascutney, with pretty views up and down the broad Connecticut, until it reaches the crowded station at White-River Junction, whence it is pro- longed on Route 10 (see page 69). The routes across Northern Vermont are liable to changes, owing to various railroad complications.. At present, the favorite line is by the Vermont Division of the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad, from Maquam Bay, on Lake Champlain, connecting with the lake steamboats. CONNECTICUT VALLEY. Route 10. G9 10. White-River Junction to the White Mountains. The Connecticut <$• Passumpsic Rivers Railroad. Stations. — White-River Junction to Norwich, 5 M. ; Pompanoosuc, 10 ; Thet- ford, 15; N. Thetford, 17 ; Fairlee, 22; Bradford, 29; S. Newbury, 33 ; Newbury, 33 : Weils River, 40 ; Lancaster, 88. Many tourists from the S. and W. parts of New England, and from the States beyond the Hudson River, would naturally approach the mountains in this direc- tion. It is also on the direct line from New-York City by the Connecticut Valley. Parlor-cars run on this route, and sleeping-cars on the night trains. At White- River Junction the Passumpsic R. R meets the Northern (N. H) R. R., the Con- necticut-Valley division of the Central Vermont R. R., and the main line of the latter route. Soon after leaving the Junction the train crosses the White River and runs X. to Norwich, whence stage? carry passengers across the Connecticut River to Hanover (Dai^tmotith Hotel), \ M. distant. This beautiful village is the seat of Dartmouth College, which has a large museum of the min- erals and rocks of the mountain-district. Beyond this point the line crosses the Ompompanoosuc River and reaches the copperas-exporting station of Pompanoosuc. Sweeping around under Oak Hill, distant views are gained on the r., of Smart's Mountain and Mnosilauke, over the thinly populated town of Lyme. From Thetford station stages run to Thetford vi.lage, W. Fairlee, Vershire, Chelsea, and Lyme. Following closely the course of the picturesque Connecticut, N. Thetfbrd is reached, whence much copper ore is sent to Baltimore. The next station is Fairlee and Orford, with the Yosemite cliff on Mt. Fairlee on the 1., and the em- bowered hamlet of Orford across the river on the r. Passing through the wide gap between Sawyer's Mountain and Soapstone Hill, Wait's River is crossed, and the train halts at the large village of Bradford (1. of the track), with Piermont Mountain across the river on the r. The valley now opens on the r., and beyond S. Xewbury the high-placed hamlet of Haverhill is seen on the bluff to the r. Towards and beyond the beautiful village of Newbury (where the neat village is seen on the 1.), the train runs near the famous Ox-Bow Meadows, one of the most fertile and valuable tracts of land in the two States. Interesting views of the Benton mountains are gained on the r., including Black Mountain, Sugar Loaf, Blueberry, and the lofty plateau of Moosilauke. Woodsville and Mt. Gardner are seen on the r. front; and the train soon enters Wells-River station, where passengers for the mountains change cars. Wells River to the mountains, see Routes 2 and 3. THE MOUNTAIN VILLAGES AND PASSES AND THE ADJACENT PEAKS. 11. North Conway. Hotels. — The * Kearsarge House (Thompson & Schoff) is a spacious and handsome hotel, for 300 guests, at $ 3-4 a day, and $ 10.50-21 a week. It is convenient to the railway station. The views of the mountains and meadows from its verandas are rich and extensive, bej-ond comparison. The building is lighted with gas ; and a portion of it is fitted with a steam- heating apparatus, for guests who remain through September and October. The house has a billiard-room, a barber-shop, reading-rooms, spacious parlors, and a high tower which commands a fine view of the valley and the White Mountains. The Sunset Pavilion (M. L. Mason) is at the N. end of the village, opposite Christ Church, and well back from the street. Nearly 150 guests can be accommodated here, the rates being $ 3 a day, and $ 8-17.50 a week. A handsome new dancing-hall, 60X30 ft., with hard-wood finish, ship-knee joints, and great fireplace was erected here in 1887. This hotel is on Sunset Bank, a bluff which overlooks the Saco intervales and Moat Mt., with Kiarsarge and Washington. The McMillan House (James M. Plum- mer) is £ M. S. of the village, opposite Sunset Hill. It commands a good view of the White Mts. 40 guests are accommodated here, at $2.50 a day, $10-14 a week. The Artist's-Falls House (Augustus Eastman) is about 1 M. from the village, in a sequestered glen near the Green Hiils. It has room for 75 guests, at $7-14 a week. The N. Conway House (L. J. Ricker) and the Randall House (J. J. Randall, 50 guests), near the Sunset Pavilion, and the Eastman House (A. Eastman, 75 guests), in the centre of the village, charge $6-12 a week. Seavey Cottage, opposite the Kearsarge, has rooms for 30 guests, and charges $7 a week. T. C. Eastman's Moat-M«>untain House (25 guests, $7-10 a week) is l-l£ M. S. on the Conway road. Kiarsarge Village is 1 £ M. from the station. The Ridge (Barnes & Dow) is a new and handsome house on the crest of the ridge, 100 ft. above X. KIARSARGE VILLAGE. Route 11. 71 Conway, with a noble view of the mountain? and meadows. The Mt.- Kiarsarge Cottage (Eugene Barnes) was new in 1S88. Russell Cottage (F. W. & H. W. Russell, 50 guests), the Orient House (Levi Wheeler, 50 guests), and the Merrill House (S. C. Hill, 40 guests), $7-10 each. Seavey's Echo Farm, across the valley of Kiarsarge Brook, accommo- dates 25, at $7 a week. O. & E. Mclntyres' is a new house at the head of the glen, on the slope of Mt. Kiarsarge, 1 M. from Kiarsarge Village (S5-7 a week). (See also page 74.) Intervale, a railroad-station and post-office, 2 M. N. of N. Conway (see page 74), near the charming summer villas of Messrs. Fette, Schouler, Worcester, Hurd, and Bigelow, has the large and popular Intervale House (300 guests, $10.50-16.50 a week), Maple Villa (George E. Gale, 25 guests), the Pendexter Mansion (40 guests, $8-14 a week), Mrs. Solomon Pendexter's (40 guests, $7-9 a week), Idlewild (C R. Dinsmore's, 30 guests, $7-8 a week), Langdon House (H. J. Pendexter, 40 guests, $7 a week), and the Bellevue (John A. Barnes, 50 guests, $7-10 a week). The rates at the boarding-houses are $7-14 a week. The accommoda- tions are usually comfortable, though simple; and the cuisine is neat and substantial, rather than of wide variety. Pitman's Arch is beyond Cathedral Ledge, and 200 ft. above the road, whence it is reached by a short, steep path. It is a lofty cavern, with a noble view over the meadows. A road has recently been built to the top of Humphrey's Ledge, just beyond, with its lovely view of the Presiden- tial Range, the Saco Valley, etc. The drive to Humphrey's Ledge is one of the finest in New England. The new Parker road runs from Mcln- tyres', at Upper Kiarsarge, around the E. side of Mt. Kiarsarge, to Chat- ham, 4 M. through primeval woods. 72 -Route 11. NORTH CONWAY. Churches. — Methodist, near the post-office ; Congregational, near the Kear- sarge House; Baptist, nearly opposite the Eistern-Railroad station; and Christ Church (Episcopal) is in the N. part of the village. Distances. — The following list is copied from the tariff of the Kiarsarge House, and shows the usual drives iu tie vicinity of N. Conwav, their distances, and the price to be paid by each occupant of a seat in the carriages. (The Editor copies the statement of distances without indorsing it as correct.) To the base of Mt. Kiarsarge,2£M., $1.25 ; to Diana's Bath, the Cathedral, and Echo Lake, 3M., § 1 25 ; to the Ar ist's Falls, 1 M., 75c ; Around the Square, 5 M , 75c- ; to the Jackson Falls, 9 M, $1.50; to Thompson's Falls, 4 M., $1.00; to the Bartlett Boulder, 7 M. ,$1.50; to the Washington Boulder, 6 &f.,$1.25; to Conway Corner and re- turn via Conway Centre, 7 M., $ 1-50 ; to Thorn Hill, 9 M.. $1 50 ; to the Champ- ney Falls, 16 M., $3.00; to the Carter Notch, 14 M., $2-50; to the Crystal Cas- cade and the Glen-Eilis Falls, 16 M., $3 00; to Humphrey's Ledge, 14 M., $ 1.50 ; to Fryeburg, 10 M , 8 2. 00 : to Chocorua Lake, 15 M-, $ 3.00 ; to Jockev Cap and Lovewell's Pond, 13 M.,$2.00; the Ridge Ride, 8 M.,$1.50; the Dundee Road, 12 M., § 2.00 ; to Buttermilk Hollow, 16 M., $ 2.00. The village of N. Conway is on a long terrace about 30 ft above the in- tervales of the Saco and l M. from the river. The Green Hills guard it on the E., forming a double line of low shaggy summits near the street ; and on the W., across the Saco Valley, is the long and massive Moat Mountain, noble and imposing in its colors and outlines, and the most conspicuous object seen from the village. A little E. of N., and about 4 M. distant, is the crest of the graceful pyramid of Mt. Kiarsarge, whose long slopes ap- proach within 2 M. of the street. To the N. N. W., about 16 M. distant, is the peak of Mt. Washington, about which several of the other main mountains are clustered. In an opposite direction the valley of the Saco opens to the S., over long stretches of fertile lowlands, banded by the groves that enclose the river. The village is 521 ft. above the sea, or 32 ft. lower than Centre Harbor. N. Conway is the chief summer-resort among the White Mts., and is occupied by city-people from early May until late October The height of the season is in August, when over 3,000 tourists are sojourning here. During the heated term it is warmer than Bethlehem, but cooler than the villages of the lake-country. Evening gayeties are much patronized, and there are hops, concerts, and readings in the halls of the chief hotels. The adjacent roads are visited, every pleasant day, by riding parties ; and ram- bling pedestrians explore the neighboring forests and hills, or fish for trout along the falling brooks. It is the beauty and variety of its environs that give N. Conway the foremost rank among the mountain-villages, added to the fact that it is at the proper focal distance from Mt. Washington. The population of Conway is about 2,000, in 4 villages. The ugly little building near the Kearsarge House, once the academy, now contains the village library. The upper story was Iniu'ss's studio. In the 8. of the village is Benjamin Uhampney's studio The old ruined church on the Con- way road lias been rebuilt in N. Conway, as a roller skating-rink. There is a handsome new Congregational church. Intervale Park, the site of the cottages and chapel of the Faith people, of whom Or. Cullis is one, is on a new and noble-viewing hill-road just beyond the Intervale. At In- tervale also are Pendexter's l.angdon House and Tasker's Fairview House. Daily stages from Kearsarge House to top of Mt. Washington. CONWAY INTERVALES. Route 11. 73 " We struck across the valley, which is intersected by the Saco River. Never did valley look more delicious : shut in all round by mountains, green as emerald, flat as water, and clumped aud fringed with trees tinted with the softest autumnal hues." (Harriet Martineau.) The lion. Miss Murray likened this valley to those of Braemar and Invercauld, though {riving Conway credit for greater sublimity. " In Conway you see the curves of the hills on their long swell, rising slowly from valley to summit : and, on the northern slope, the mountain-wave seems to have broken and rushed abruptly to the plain. Such is the general aspect of the land- scape, and one can easily picture to himself a beauty of the scenery that is almost feminine, as it appears at Conway. Not only the hills, but the village itself, and the gentle meadows of the Saco, add to the soft charm of this very Arcadia of the White Hills. Here Nature seems for once to have thrown aside her harsh and severe character in this granite heart of New England, and to have abandoned herself to a genial and happy repose/' The most beautiful features of the scenery of X. Conway are the broad intervales of the Saco River, which spread a level floor of the richest verdure from the foot of the village-terrace nearly to the base of Moat Mt., over 1 M. distant, and extend for several miles to the N. and S. This scene imparts an Arcadian air to the quiet village, and quiets even the electric American mind by its sweet pastoral beauty. The lower por- tion of the intervales has been ruined by the erection thereon of the ragged embankments and unsightly trestles of a railroad; but rich views may still be enjoyed from the upper parts of the village and from the Intervale House. Closer views of the meadows may be obtained by descending the Artist's Brook, or b}-the road to the Ledges. It is said that the intervales were originally covered with forests of white-pine and maple, except in the vicinity of the Indian villages. " Game was nowhere so plenty; fish and fowl aud animals were almost as thick as in the jungles of Africa." The earlier settlers built their rude houses on the meadows, but these constructions were swept off in the flood of 1800, and after that the people lived on the terraces above. The intervales throughout the town are from 50 to 220 rods wide, and are richer than those of the Merrimac Valley, though the season here is two weeks shorter. The name of Saco is derived from three Indian words, saiva, "burnt," co6, " pine,'' and auke, " place." The river is here from 8 to 12 rods wide, and from 2 to 7 ft. deep. Its course is rapid, over a rough and stony bed ; and it has been known to rise 30 ft. within 24 hours, floodiag all the meadows and sweeping up against the flanking terraces. The base of the river-plain is sandy ; and it is fertil- ized every spring by the disintegrated rocks of the Notch mountains, which are brought down by the raging waters and spread out over the valley. " Now the sun send? mingled light and lengthened shadows over the picturesque labors of the haymakers, in the broal, green, beautiful meadows that spread, a mile wide, waving with irrass and grain and patches of glistening corn, clear to the moun- tains' fjet, to the hieroglyphic rocky faces of the curious le Iges, that form its out- posts iu front, and to the winding Saco River, whose course is marked with gracefully overhanging elms and oaks and maples, that also stud the plain in scattered groups, and shale the brooks that ramble, musically gurgling, to the river. A lovelier plain was never spread before a poet's feet, to woo the willing thoughts abroad. A scene of plenty, purity, and peace. On our r. , in the N. , loom the White Mts., blue and misty, aud yet boldly outlined. There is Mt. Washington, rearing his broad Jove- like throne amid his great brothers and supporters ; these, with innumerable lesser mountains (each Olympian enough when clouds cap and conceal the grander ones behind them), gaze solemnly and serenely down our broad valley, and look new meanings in the ceaseless changes of the air and light " 73 a Route 11. THE MOAT PATH. New Paths at North Conway. The Moat Path. (Apjmlachia, vol. i. p. 267.) — Before the great fire in 1854, Moat was the greenest mountain visible from North Conway. The varied foliage of hard and soft wood trees was scarcely broken by the small precipices skirting the lower part of the slope, and just distinguish- able at a few other points. A little column of smoke appeared, I think on the morning of September 30, to the right of the north peak, and had scarcely crept over the shoulder when the fire was seized by a gale from the north-west, and driven furiously the whole length of the mountain, consuming the trees and the soil, and leaving only a whitened surface of calcined rock. A visit to the scene of the fire the following summer revealed some interesting details of its work. Around the border of the expanse of bare rock remnants of soil were seen, in some instances from one to two feet thick, which proved to* be a mere shell, crumbling to ashes and sand under the feet. It appeared also that the violence of the wind, caused by the union of the gale and the draught of the fire, had in some places blown down the trees and blown out the flames, actually limiting the spread of the fire. Notably was this the case at the base of the north cone, which was encircled by a collar of charred spruce trunks, twisted and broken, and lying together in wild confusion. This collar of fallen wood, about half a mile in width, has constituted the chief obstacle in the ascent of the mountain ; for there has been no escape from the necessity of climbing laboriously over the ruin, with no little danger to garments. Also the base of the mountain has gradually been covered with a thick growth of poplars and birches, through which it -was not easy to climb ; and a still further difficulty has arisen from the perplexing network of logging-roads crossing the plain between Moat and the Ledges. In August, 1877, Dr. Wilbur B. Parker, joining William L. and Charles P. Worcester, with whom the plan originated, succeeded in overcoming all these difficulties, and in opening a good path to the top of the mountain. The logging- road, starting from Mr. Lucy's, at the spot unfortunately named Diana's Baths, is clearly marked by guide-boards ; a broad, well-cleared path runs with remarkable straightness through the young growth at the lower part of the ascent ; over the bare rock the way is indicated by cairns placed near together, — all the nearer on account of their having been built in a dense fog ; and, most important of all, a very pretty bit of path, carpeted with moss, runs straight through the weari- some "jack-straws," and is continued to the top of the peak. Near the entrance of the "jack-straws " a short branch of the path, designated by a guide-board, leads to a spring, which has been carefully cleaned out and stoned. During the latter part of September, as the water in the spring was reported low, the work was done over more thoroughly. The dis- THE MIDDLE-MT. PATH. Route 11. 73 b tance from Mr. Lucy's to the top of the cone, roughly measured with a knotted cord, is about fifty yards less than three miles and a half, and is about equally divided between the logging-road to the foot and the ascent. The distance from the Kiarsarge House to Mr. Lucy's, measured in the same way, is almost exactly three miles ; making the whole distance from the Kiarsarge House to the top about six and a half miles, — a result which is an agreeable surprise to those whose notion of the distance had been much exaggerated by the former difficulties of the way. After the path was finished, it was traversed by many parties of ladies and gentlemen. The New Path up Middle Mountain. The best path up is that made by the Lexington people, from Camp Three-Oaks, and starts from a point at the head of the ice-ponds, in the clearing back of the Artist's-Falls House. At this point there is a guide-board, on which is painted " Middle-Mt. Path and Artist's-Falls via the Brook." The path at once leads across a rustic bridge, and soon comes to the main stream (Artist's Brook), at a place where a large log forms a dam, and serves as a bridge. Here the Artist's-Falls path diverges to the left and follows up the stream, keeping close to its bank the whole distance to the main fall, — about ^ M. The path is well marked, the forest is very fine, and a visit to the main fall by the old roadway affords little pleasure com- pared to a stroll through this path close to the stream, brawling in a succession of falls the whole distance. The Middle-Mt. path crosses the stream by the log, leads through a pasture overgrown with evergreens and birches to a fence at the edge of the woods, which stretch along the base of Peaked Mt., thence through these woods until it conies to a cluster of tall pines, where it joins the cart-path which leads from the village, start- ing at the Congregational Church ; thence it follows up the cart-path, crosses the stream, and continues along on the slope of the mountain about \ M., then turns at nearly a right angle up the slope, coming out on the bare ledges less than \ M. from the summit. The distance from Camp Three-Oaks is about lg M. The path is clearly defined, and the climb is not difficult. At every doubtful point in the woods there is a painted sign, and on the ledges cairns of stones, so that an entire stranger can easily find the way. Cool water can be found a few steps from the place where the path turns from the logging-road abruptly up the slope of the mountain ; and as there is none on the summit, a supply should be procured here. Near the Artist's-Falls House, in the edge of the dense evergreen woods, is the newly discovered Forest-Glen Mineral Spring, of which the Massachusetts State Assayer says : " It is odorless, colorless, taste- less, sparkling, and alkaline, — a remarkably pure and excellent water." A roadway has been built to it, and many visitors come hither on warm summer days. The water boils up through a fissure in an outcropping l>lg j . filling a granite basin 3 ft. deep, and discharging very raoidlv. 74 Route 11. KIARSARGE VILLAGE. Pleasant forest-rambles are found back of Christ Church, across the track, and also in the Cathedral Woods, N. of the village. Beyond the latter are the fine buildings of the Bigelow estate, and other costly and luxurious summer-residences. A short distance beyond is the summer vil- lage near the Intervale House, far quieter than N. Conway, and with rich- er views over the Saco meadows and the great Moat range. This locality is esteemed by many as the most beautiful in the mountain-district. The Artist's Fails are in the E. environs of the village, over 1 If. from the Kiarsarge House, and are visited by a road which turns to the E. from the highway just below the bridge over Artist's Brook. They are a short distance beyond the Artist' s-Falls House, in a pleasant woodland re- gion, with picturesque surroundings. The descent of water is small, and occurs on a rivulet which flows from the heart of the Green Hills. The falls are to be considered rather as a centre of pretty forest-scenery and the objective point of a short ramble than as intrinsically remarkable. The routes to Peaked Mt. and Middle Mt pass near this point. The lower reaches of Artist's Brook are more beautiful, where, below the old mill, it broadens out into a quiet and meandering course over the rich intervales, among clusters of graceful elm-trees, and with noble views of the mountains on either side. This fair scene of summer -rambles may be visited from near the Washington House or McMillan's, though no con- venient way of access has been prepared. The view of the Wbite-Mt. range from McMillan's is one of the best in the village, and opposite this point is the Sunset Hill, whence a broad and satisfactory prospect is afforded over the valley and the ranges beyond. The hill is 815 ft. above sea-level, and 29-t ft. above N. Conway. It should be ascended at late afternoon, for its magnificent view up to the vast blue Presidential Range. There are seats on the summit. Kiarsarge Village is about l£ M. from N. Conway, on the road to Mt. Kiarsarge, in the upper valley of Kiarsarge Brook. It is a collection of summer boarding-houses, with a small Episcopal chapel; and is favorably situated with regard to Kiarsarge and the Green Hills. The Thorn-Hill Drive is a favorite excursion from N. Conway. It pass- es the Intervale House and Lower Bartlett, and ascends one of the spurs of Thorn Mountain, whence is obtamed a noble view of the mountains, — including Mts. Pleasant, Franklin, Monroe, and Washington, over the Eagle Mts. Boott's Spur is seen running S. E. from Washington, and portions of Tuckerman's and Huntington's Ravines are beyond. Mt. Adams is visible through the Pinkham Notch, and Mt. Wild-Cat is on its r. Several pleasant retrospects are obtained from this road. Around the Square is a favorite drive, 5 M. long, which passes through Kiarsarge Village and along tbe base of Mt. Kiarsarge. The Dundee Road is a 10-M. drive, leading through a succession of sequestered glens, and affording interesting mountain-views. It diverges to the r. from the Gleu N. CONWAY. Route 11. 75 Road at Lower Bartlett, and ascends the narrow valley between Thorn Mt. (1. side) and Mt. Kiarsarge (r. side), then bears to the 1. between Tin Mt. and the stately peaks of Double-Head, approaches Black Mt., and af- fords striking views of the Presidential Range. The return-drive may be made by way of Jackson and the Glen Road, Jackson being 9 M. from N. Conway. The Washington and Bartlett Boulders are two remarkable rocks which are much visited, the one being 5 M. S. (near Pine Hill), the other 6 M. N. Among the longer drives from this point are those to the Glen- Ellis Falls, 16 M.; Sligo, 13 M.; the Carter Notch, 12 M. ; Fryeburg, 10 M.; Buttermilk Hollow, 12 M.; Swift-River Falls, 18 M.; and Choco- rua Lake, 18 M. (See the Index, for localities.) " One always finds, we think, on a return to N. Conway, that his recollections of its loveliness were inadequate to the reality. Such profuse and calm beauty some- times reigns over the whole village, that it seems to be a little quotation from Ar- cadia, or a suburb of Paradise Certainly, we have seen no other region of New England that is so swathed in dreamy charm. A few years ago the Moat Mountains were ravaged with fire ; and yet their lines give such delight that few mountains look so attractive in verdure as they in desolation. The atmosphere and the outlines of the hills seem to lull rather than stimulate. There are no crags, no pinnacles, no ramparts of rock, no mountain frown, or savageness brought into contrast, at any point, with the general serene beauty. Kiarsarge is a rough and s-raggy mountain, when you attempt to climb it, but its lines ripple off softly to the plain- Mt. Wash- ington does not seem so much to stand up, as to lie out at ease across the north. The leonine grandeur is there, but it is the lion not erect but couchant, a little sleepy, stretching out his paws and enjoying the sun. And tired Chocorua appears as if looking wistfully down into A land In which it seemed always afternoon. " And then the sunsets of N. Conway ! Coleridge asked Mont Blanc if he had ' a charm to stay the moruing star in hi-; steep course.' It is time for some poet to put the question to those bewitching elm-sprinkled acres that border the Saco, by what sorcery they evoke, evening after evening, upon the heavens that watch them, such lavish and Italian bloom For pomp of bright, clear, contrasted flames on a deep and transparent sky, the visitors of N. Conway, on the Sunset Bank that over- looks the meadows, enjoy the frequent privilege of a spectacle which the sun sink- ing behind the Notch conjures for them, such as he rarely displays to the dwellers by the Arno or the inhabitants of Naples. " It would require more space than our volume will allow, to do justice to the various charms into which this wide circle of beauty is broken by walks and excur- sions and drives One of the prominent pleasuresof a clear and cool day is to find different points for studying Mt. Washington. In what noveliies of shape, dignity, and effect he may be thrown by the rambles of a morning ! We may see his steep, torn walls rising far off beyond a hill which we are ascending, and which hides from us most of the foreground . . . . ; or may catch a glimpse of him through a couple of trees that stand sentinel to keep other "mountains of the range from an intrusion that will reduce his majesty ; or may seek a posiion near a grove whose breezy plumes afford the most cheerful contrast of mo f ion and color to set off his gray grandeur and majestic rest ; or from different points near the Saco may relate him, by changing angles, into fresh combina ions with the level verdure of the meadows, or with some curve of its brooks, or some graceful thicket of its maples." (Starr King.) Conway was granted to Daniel Foster in 1765, and was soon occupied by the pioneers of a rude rural civilization, whose cabins supplanted the old Indian town. In 1772 a road was granted from Conway to the Connecticut River, by way of Gorham, Northumberland, and Lancaster. The early settlers of Conway were from Durham and Lee, towns near tide-water in the S. E. part of New Hampshire. 76 Route 12. THE GREEN HILLS. In June, 1775, Andrew McMillan sent down from Conway, praying that troopa might be rent to guard the town, as 15 of her citizens were in the American army besieging Boston. The State sent a supply of powder to Conway, and during the following summer Capt. Joshua Heath was ordered to enlist ten rangers and scout through the Conway woods for three months. At this time (census of 1775) Conway had 273 inhabitants and 2 negro slaves. The Congregational church w;is organized in 1778. In 1781 a postal service was inaugurated here by the State, consisting of a mounted mail-carrier, who rode fortnightly from Portsmouth to Conway , Plymouth. Haverhill, Charlestown. Keene, and Portsmouth, his compensation each three months being " 70 hard Dollars, or paper money Equivalent " When the party of Drs Eelknap and Cutler passed through Conway, in 1784. " The good Women understand; there were 3 Ministers in \° Ccmpy were in hepe we should lay the Spirits wl» have been fuppofed to hover about jc White Mountains — an opinion very probably derived from y e Indians who tho"t thefe M° y e habitation of some inviQble beings & never attempted to afcend them." In the early part of the pre^ent century, when all the freighting between the Cons country and the sea-shore passed this way. Conway was a busy place, its street being frequently traversed by wagon-trains a half-mile long. In 1797, President Dwight visi'ed the town, and speaks favorably of the intervales and the view of Mt. Wash- ington ; saying also that " The inhabitants appeared to be in comfortable circum- stances, and the houses were decent." Conway is underlaid by the so-called Conway granite. The geological theory is that near the close of the Labrador period a tremendous earthquake occurred in the White-Mt. region, followed by an eruption of igneous granite, which flooded the Franconia and southern ranges with a sea of fire. "Were there ships of steel, they might have floated on this liquid lake, for the surface was as level as the ocean " Its outlet was by the Sac o Valley , and here " remove the overlying rock, and the top of the granite will appear as flat as a western prairie." 12. The Green Hills. This cluster of highlands lies to the E. of N. Conway, and covers an area of about 16 square miles, having 8 well-marked summits in a double line, and facing to the E. on the plains of Fryeburg. The State Geological Survey gives their height as 2,390 ft., or more than 1,860 ft. above N. Conway, — but as to which of the peaks this measurement was made upon nothing is said. The altitude seems to be overstated. The lower parts of the range are partially covered with forests, and the interior glens are heavily timbered. Some portions have been burnt over by forest- fires, leaving bare peaks on the W., from which pleasant views are gained. Rude logging-roads ramify through the ravines, and ascend some of the slopes. Artist's Ledge may be reached by a woodland path which crosses Artist's Brook near the falls and leads to the foot, whence the ascent is easily made over the smooth rocks. *The view from the Ledge includes Chocorua on the 1., with a broad sweep of the Saco Valley to the X., bounded by the rugged ridge of MoatMt. N. Conway is outspread on the terrace below, and over the Kiarsarge House is the White-Horse Ledge, over the Sunset Pavilion is the Cathedral Ledge, and over the Intervale House is Humphrey's Ledge. Farther to the r. are the bare rocks of Iron Mt., and Thorn Hill is at the head of the valley, flanked on the r. by Thorn Mt., and nearly over Kiarsarge Village. Farther to the r. is Kiar- THE GREEN HILLS. Route 12. 77 sarge, ris'ng proudly over the Green Hills. Mt. Washington and the adja- cent peaks are about X. X. W., nearly over Thorn Hill. " As a composition, the view from Artist's Hill is very symmetrically proportioned, and is superior to any other in the variety and graduations of its forms. Mt. Wash- ington, which is always the leading object of interest, occupies the central position. The inferior hilis rise from the level meadows on either hand, step by step towards his summit, which dominates over the whole scene. In this noble symmetry of multitudinous details it differs from most of the other general views of the White Hills In views like that from Campton, or the Artist's Hill in N. Conway, color is displayed, not in simplicity or sombre breadth, but in variety and splendor, and in the intermingling of several contiguous and contrasting scales The blue-brown of Shelburne, the yellow-purple of Milan, and the violet-citrine of Campton, each showing an ascent of tone or hue, lead up to the orange-russet or purple, the most delicate, rich, and subtle of all, that dominates and typifies the unsurpassed magnificence of the color-harmonies of Conway.'' (Stark. Ki>'G ) Peaked Mountain is easily ascended from Artist's Ledge, which is not far from the summit. The crest consists of a thin rock3 r ridge, with a few small trees upon it; and looks across a shallow but steep-sided ravine to Middle Mt., on the S. The Editor was overtaken by a heavy rain-storm while on this peak, and is therefore unable to describe the view, which, however, is not unlike those from Artist's Ledge and Middle Mt. Blackcap, or Blackhead, is the highest of the Green Hills, and lies in the E. line, though it is visible from N. Conway. It is covered with trees, and is not valuable as a view-point. It may be reached by passing up the ravine X. of Peaked Mt., and ascending by the outer ridges. S. of this, and partially connected with Peaked Mt. by a low ridge, is the long crest of Green Mt., which is overspread with light green foliage. Rattlesnake Mt. is S. of and lower than Middle Mt., and has no good views. Another long ridge is X. of Peaked Mt., running nearly to Kiarsarge, and covered with ledge? and low, dense thickets. The first peak X. of Peaked Mt. is called Lookout Point; and the higher point to the X. E. (formerly called Green Mt.) is now known as Hurricane Mt. The more northerly of the Green Hills are partially bare, and may easily be ascended from Kiarsarge Vilhige and the inhabited glen to the N. E. Sunset Hill, a clear-topped spur of Hurricane, 815 ft. high, views Moat, Kiarsarge, Washington, Ossipee, etc. Many ascend it at late afternoon. Middle Mountain is the most desirable point of the Green Hilis on which to make an ascent. It is about an hour's walk from X. Conway to the summit, and the hill is over 1,500 ft. above the sea. The best route is by the road which diverges from the village-street alongside the bridge, and runs under the P. & O. railroad (see page 73 b). In the valley below it crosses a small bridge; and about 50 rods beyond, the road diverging to the 1. should be taken. Following the main path, and disregarding the logging-roads which diverge to the 1., r., and 1., the tourist enters a clearing, on each side of which are the ruins of shanties. Bearing around and just beyond the old camp on the r., the hill-path turns off to the r., soon crosses a rude little bridge, and then ascends the 78 Route 12. MIDDLE MT. slope. This path is clear and well-outlined, and can easily be followed. Another path diverges from the road before the shanties are reached, and ascends the ridge in the track of the old lumber-slide. The road which leads from the village to these points affords a pleasant forest-ramble, curving gracefully through fine groups of pine-trees, and being out of sight of clearings, fences, or houses. The paths come out on the broad bare ledges which front the swell of the ridge, and it is difficult to follow them beyond. The remainder of the ascent is over the ledges, alternating with luxuriant jungles of sweet-fern, and striped with old burnt trees. Fascinating retrospects may be ob- tained during the resting-times along the slope. The crest consists of a long and narrow ridge, carpeted with grass, edged with ledges, and adorned with a few' clean-stemmed trees. One of the pleasantest features of this trip is the passage over grass-carpeted roads through tall forests. Much of this wood has already been cut away, but enough remains to form a forest where one can wander adventurously for many hours in a labyrinth of old and unused logging-roads, secure from intrusion, and free to follow fancy down the winding woodland aisles. * The View. — The most conspicuous object to the W. is the long frown- ing ridge of Moat Mt., with its definite craggy crests boldly outlined against the sky. The S. peak rises from the Swift-River Valley by a long even slope, and is succeeded on the N. by rugged central ledges, which are separated by a strongly marked ravine from the high N. peak. Pro- jecting from the base of Moat are the White-Horse and Cathedral Ledges, with their black-and-white fronts, below which is the village of N. Con- way, on the edge of the broad and delightful Saco intervales. Over the r. flank of Moat, and to the 1. of the line of vision extending to the White- Horse Ledge, is the lofty and slightly notched summit of Mt. Carrigain, its r. flank cutting the N. buttress of Moat over the White-Horse Ledge. The distant peaks to the r., above the Cathedral Ledge, are Mts. Anderson and Nancy, on whose 1. is the crest of Lowell,. just peering over the foot- hill of Moat, above White Horse. To the r. of Moat and over the r. of the Cathedral Ledge is the red peak of Mt. Crawford, with the table-land of Mt. Resolution on the r. and the Giant's Stairs still farther to the r. Above these are the crests of the Field-Willey Range, and Mt. Bond is seen far away, to the 1. of Crawford. The long sloping ridge which termi- nates at Humphrey's Ledge runs out from Mt. Attitash, at the r. of M at Mt., and over it in the N. E. is the ledgy and unpointed Iron Mt. in Jack- son. When the Editor ascended Middle Mt, in September, 1875, the Presidential Range was hidden by a black and impenetrable embankment of massive clouds. It is, however, safe to say that Mt. Washington is visible, with Monroe, Franklin, and Pleasant on its 1. and Adams on the r. Clinton is over the 1. of Iron, and Pleasant over the r. of Iron. Over the 1. of Mt. Bartlett is the sharp gorge of the Carter Notch, with Mt. Wild-Cat on the 1. and the Carter Dome on the r. The narrow clearings of Jackson extend up toward the wooded Eagle Mts. Liberty Onvjtnt CianrsStwr-s TrenwM Hancork Flume ' Zirurrtn Jiomt tTeroluiicn jr ^' ,c f, Oscfela Mwsdaitfo Carngam ; I Nivwy . tajiyepk S7hm\ ATTIrw \Baystnsk filor^aitda/i 7tidg& mbiCal Adams Madi.vn \ Caner/irme ■SaJik. Carter 3&nah Imp VIEW FROM MOUNT KIARSARGE, OR PEQUAWKET. MT. KIARSARGE. Route 13. 79 Nearer at hand is the rounded Thorn H 11, on whose r. rises Mt. Bartlett, prolonged into the higher crest of Kiarsarge, which is crowned by a hotel. A large area of Western Maine is shut out by Blackhead, one of the tall and wooded Green Hills which extends for a long distance to the N. E. Over its r. foot rises Mt. Pleasant, with its hotel, and Upper Moose Pond is seen on the 1. Nearer, and in line with Pleasant, is Mt. Tom, a bold rounded knoll, Avith Pleasant Pond on the r. Under the latter is Lovewell's Pond, with its island, near which is Fryeburg village, on the green intervales and near the yellow coils of the sinuous Saco beaches. Still to the r. and farther away is Sebago Lake, which is nearly hidden by the Saddleback and Peaked Mts. The view now dwells on the fertile Saco meadows in the foreground, with the lower hamlets of Con- way and the island-strewn surface of Walker's Pond, which is nearly due S., over the lowermost of the Green Hills. Several miles away, over Con- way Corner, is a part of Silver Lake, with the Green Mt. of Effingham be- yond. To the 1. of this line are the hills along the Maine border, — Frost Mt. and the Burnt-Meadow Mts. in Brownfield, Mt. Cutler and Tear Cap in Hiram, and Trafton Mt. in Cornish. Farther to the r. is a part of the Ossipee Range, and then, with its r. flank resting on Moat Mt., comes the superb crest of Chocorua, its red rocks rising sharply into the N. and S. peaks and its long S. flank running out to hide Chocorua Lake. Below, in the plain, is the round knob which is called the Haystack. On the r. of Chocorua is Mt. Paugus, beyond which rises the round-crested Passa- conaway. The narrow space between the latter and Moat Mt. is cut by the cone of Tripyramid. The cjuestion as to whether Mt. Lafayette is visible from Middle Mt. has been settled in the affirmative. At a time in the early autumn, when the snow-line was at about 5,000 ft. elevation, a white crest is visible far away over the gap between Moat and iron Mts. This can be none other than Lafayette. 13. Mt. Kiarsarge, or Pequawket. Pequawket-Kiarsarge lifts its symmetrical cone into the blue sky over N. Conway, the most alpine of all the heights about that village, and it always preserves the same sharp outline, whether seen from Sebago Lake, Portland, the high peaks of Osceola and Moosilauke, or the houses on Mt. Washington. The bridle-path which traverses its rugged flanks is yeaidy climbed by thousands of tourists from the adjacent villages, some on horseback but most on foot. The Editor has passed over 50 persons as- cending in scattered groups, within less than two hours. The weather-beaten old hotel (built 1845) on the summit was blown down in 1883, and in 1884 a smaller building was erected on the crest, to afford transient and temporary shelter for visitors. Although it is but little more than half as high as Mt. Washington, it commands a view whkh.is but little inferior, while for the commingled charms of mountain, 80 Route 13. MT. KIARSARGE. meadow, and village scenery, it has scarcely a rival. The height above the sea is 3,251 feet, as determined by the trigonometrical measurements of the U. S. Coast Survey. The early morning is the best time for the visit, for though the light is garish and white, the great ravines of the Presidential Range are then best seen. In the late afternoon, the ocean is clearly visible, and the level light falls brightly on the sails of the ship- ping. Starr King called this "the queenly mountain," and desired that it should be named "Martha Washington." Theodore Parker spoke en- thusiastically of its view of " the chief mountains en famiUe." " Do not some of our readers recall the fascination of the diorama exhibited to those whom Pequawket allows to pass ahove its elegant shoulders ? Do they not call to mind the mob of mountains that first storms the sight from the N. and W., as though Mt. Washington had given a party, and all the hills were hurrying up to answer the invitation ? Can they not see again with the mind's eye the different effects of color and shadow upon the lines of hills, according to their distance, height, and the position of the sun, and how they soon group themselves in relation to the two great centres, — the notched summit of Lafayette and the noble dome of Washington ? Do they not recall the soothing contrast to these shaggy surges of the land in the far-stretching open country of the S., gemmed with lakes and ponds, brilliant with cultivation, sweeping out like a vast and many-colored sea .... over which, far in the S. W., the filmy outline of Monadnock gleams like a sail just fad- ing out upon a vaster sea? " The lower parts of Kiarsarge are composed of common and trachytic granites, with occasional limited areas of slate. The upper 2,000 feet consist of an igneous felsite, full of rounded pebbles and angular fragments of slate. This fiery flood of molten rock was thrown out before the Helderberg period, in the same eruption that formed the ridge of Moat Mt. The geographical position of Kiarsarge is in the towns of Chatham and Bartlett, about 4 M. from the Maine boundary. The Bridie-Path is plain and well-marked, and affords as easy travelling as is pos- sible with the heavy grade. It starts from a farm-house about 2 M from N. Con- *vay and h M. from Kiarsarge Village, where several well-trained saddle-horses are Kept for the use of ladies or others who wish to ride up. $ 2 is charged for each *iorse, and $ 2 for a guide, who can take care of several horses. No extra charge is made if people keep the horses all night on the mountain- Parties of 2 - 3 per- sons are carried from N. Conway to the base of the mountain for 50c. each. The distance to the top is nearly 3 M., the following being the pedometric measurements : From the house to Prospect Ledge, 1 M. (less 1-20), thence to the spring, ^M.; thence to the Bartlett path, \ M. ; thence to the summit, \ M. Crossing the fields behind the house, the ascent of the S. W. shoulder is soon entered upon, and is continued up to Prospect Ledge, whose vicini- ty is marked by a guide-board, near which a succession of remarkable outcroppings of breccia is crossed. There is a wooden seat at the Ledge, where one can rest and look over the valley. The view from Prospect Ledge includes the Green Hills, Mt. Pleasant, the villages of N. Conway, Conway Centre, and Conway Corner, and MT. K1ARSARGE. Route 13. 81 a broad, rich area of the Saco Valley, extending far away into Maine. At the foot of Moat Mt. are the White-Horse and Cathedral Ledges, and to the r. is Tremont, with a pa^t of Mt. Carrigain. The path ascends through the forest to the spring, which is on the r. , in a stone coping. About } M beyond, the woods are left behind, and the path conies out on broad ledges, which are followed around toward the E. Branch, with Mt. Bartlett close at hand on the 1. Beautiful views are afforded on the W. and N. ; and the path finally takes a turn directly up the mountain, soon reaching the summit. The time necessary to ascend from the base is 1^- — 2 hrs. The old paths from Fryeburg and Lower Bartlett are still occasionally used. The former passed through the shallow depression between the Green Hills and Mt. Gemini, and ascended the E. S. E. slope. The Bartlett path led up from near the East-Branch House, along the slopes of Mt. Bartlett and over the connecting ridge striking the Conway path far up on the mountain. It was re-opened in 1880. ** The View. — The broad Saco Valley opens toward the W., banded horizontally by a narrow belt of clearings, along which stretches the sin- uous river, blue at morning and silvery at evening, ruled off by the straight white line of the P. & 0. Railroad track. On the r. the Rocky- Branch valley enters the Saco obliquely from the N. W., broadening out near the point of confluence. At the apparent head of the Saco Valley, and through the directly continuing depression of the tributary Sawyer's River, is the long blue ridge of Moosilauke, nearly 50 M. distant, with its crowning hotel visible by aid of the telescope. Nearer at hand, in th& great angle between the Saco and the Rocky Branch, are the compara- tively low and rocky summits of Mts. Stanton and Bickering, Willoughby Ledge and Hart's Ledge. Above, and to the r. of Moosilauke, is Mt. Hancock, on whose r. is the immense mass of Mt. Carrigain, rising from the S. The pyramid of Mt. Lowell is against the side of Carrigain, in poor relief. At the apparent head of the Rocky-Branch glen is Mt. Lang- don, above which is Mt. Anderson (r. of Carrigain and Lowell), with the slide-striped Mt. Flume to the 1., far away, and Mt. Liberty (of the Fran- conias) directly above. The chain of Lowell and Anderson is terminated on the r. by Mt. Nancy, ovej- whose r. falling flank is Mt. Lincoln, contin- uous with which is the thin serrated crest of Lafayette, about 30 M. dis- tant. To the r. of the Rocky-Branch glen is the well-defined mass of Iron Mt., banded with yellow ledges and cut by a broad, shallow ravine, and presenting a pointless summit. Over Iron, to the 1., are Mt. Parker and the knob-like crest of Mt. Crawford; and over the highest part of Iron is the broad and high-lifted plateau of Mt. Resolution, with its fringe of red granite ledges. To the r., and falling on the r. end of Resolu- tion, are the upper terraces of the Gian.'s Stairs. Above Iron Mt. and again above the Crawford range is the Twin Range, with Mt. Bond to the 1. of Crawford and r. of Lafayette, partly rounded on the top. The South Twin Mt. is directly over the plateau of Resolution, and the North Twin, marked by a long white slide, is over the Giant's Stairs. From the uppermost of the sharply cut steps of Giant's Stairs, Mt. Willey rises pre- cipitously to ther., on whose r. and in a continuous line are Mts. Field and 1* F 82 Route 13. MT. KIARSARGE. Tom, beyond the Crawford House. Under the latter is the descendh.^ 1. flank of Mt. Webster, with Jackson (on the r.) cutting the sky line with its small sharp peak Returning to the near foreground, Thorn Mt. is next seen, within 3 M. across the East-Branch valley, its sides and crest covered with trees. Over its highest point is the flat top of Mt. Clinton, in the Presidential Range; and over its right flank, up the glen of Miles Brook, is the hemispherical top of Mt. Pleasant. Over Tin Mt., the low knoll r. of and on the same ridge with Thorn, are the wooded lines of the Eagle Mts., above Jackson vil- lage. Farther toward the horizon is the flat terrace of Mt. Franklin, r. of Pleasant, to the r. of which are the two sharp and craggy humps of Mt. Monroe. The eye next rests on the vast cone of Mt. Washington, and if the day is clear the chief features of its nobly formed E. and S. flanks may easily be discerned. L. of and below the cone is the long embattled projection of Boott's Spur, on whose S. E. flank are unexplored ravines. Over the r. flank of the Spur is a portion of the upper reach of Tucker- man's Ravine. More to the r. are the Lion's-Head crags, the gorge in which Raymond's Cataract is situated, the broad, stony plain of the Al- pine Garden, and the jutting rocks of the Nelson Crag, which rises at the head of the tremendous cliffs of Huntington's Ravine. Entering the foreground again to the r. of Thorn Mt., the eye follows the pleasant Dundee Valley up to the pastured sides of the lowly Black Mt., over which is a heavy spur of the Wild- Cat range. Above and beyond the latter is the stately pinnacle of Mt. Adams, with the crag on the r. which looks down into King's Ravine. E. of Adams, and beyond the lake-infolding ridge between, is the blue, rounded summit of Mt. Madison. Close at hand, within 4 M. of Kiarsarge, are the nobly defined and singu- lar twin peaks of Double-Head, apparently wooded, the S. peak cutting off the W. slope of the N peak. Directly over Double-Head and Black Mt. is the sharp gorge of the Carter Notch, with Mt. Wild-Cat on the 1., and the ponderous ridges of the Carter Dome on the r. To the r. of Double-Head is the low and shapeless Mt. Sable, above whose crest, and r. of Carter, is the high head of Mt. Moriah, nearly due N. On the r. of Sable succeed the dull rounding slopes of Mt. Eastman and the remarka- ble white crests of Baldface, extending in a long ridge to the S. Imme- diately to the r. of Baldface are the rock-ribbed round summits of Mt. Royce, between which runs the boundary of the State of Maine. Royce is remarkably picturesque towards evening, when its ravines are filled with black and opaque shadows, and its ledges are thrown out in vivid contrasting colors. Through the notch between Baldface and Royce are the remote blue peaks of Goose Eye and Speckled, with other summits rear the boundary; and above and between the peaks of Royce is the Bear-River White Cap, which is in the vicinity of the Grafton Notch, to- wards Lake Umbagng. To the r. of Royce, and separated from it by the MT. K1ARSARGE. Route 13. 83 Brickett Notch, is Speckled Mt., a vast and shapeless mass, over which are the shapely crests of Puzzle Mt., in Newry. Mt. Slope is nearly in line with Royce, about 6 M. distant ; and still nearer, a long and broken ridge runs X. N. E. from Kiarsarge, bearing the twin peaks which are known as Mt. Gemini on the old maps. (See Carrigaiu's map, of the year 1816.) Back of the line of Speckled are the lower ridges of Red-Rock Mt. and Mt. Calabo. About N. E. is the fine pyramid of Mt. Blue, in Avon, on either side of which, in a very clear day, may be seen still more remote peaks of the great Maine wilderness. The most important of these are Bigelow (over the r. of Speckled) and Abraham (on the 1. of Blue), and Spruce and Averill (on the r.). The adjacent ponds to the E. next attract the attention, the first one on the 1. being the long-drawn-out Upper Kezar Pond (8-10 Iff. in length), of which several detached sections are seen. Far out over the head of the pond are the bold hills of Albany and Woodstock; and near the cen- tral section is the hamlet of Lovell Centre, backed by the low and abrupt Mt. Sabattos. Nearer, and a little to the 1., is the Charles Pond, r. of which is the hamlet of N. Fryeburg, with the larger Lovell Village over it. Still nearer are the Kimball Ponds, separated by a belt of woods, and situated on the State line ; while the dark and forest-environed Mirror Lake (or Shingle Pond) is seen below, almost on the flank of the mountain Over the 1. Kimball Pond is Kezar Pond, on the confines of Fryeburg and Bridgton. Mt. Pleasant is seen toward the E., lifting its long ridge out of the ap- parent plains of Maine, with its central peak crowned by a large hotel. To the 1. of Pleasant is Upper Moose Pond, over which is a portion of Long Pond, with Bridgton village on the W., and Bear and Hawk Mts. (in Waterford) on the N. Over Pleasant, and on the extreme horizon, the ocean may be seen, extending to the r. for many leagues, with Portland to the r. of Pleasant. This portion of the view is best seen at early nnrning, when the sun is reflected from the water, or about an hour before sunset, when the light falls nearly level on the sails of the shipping. 400 vessels have been seen off this shore at one time. The low but well- marked summit of Mt. Tom is seen under the r. flank of Pleasant, and just r. of the foot of Pleasant is Pleasant Pond, with a part of Moose Pond. To the r., and nearer, is the square Lovewell's Pond, bearing a single island, near which is the gray ledge of Jockey Cap Nearer the beholder is the white village of Fryeburg, peeping out from its luxuriant groves on the exquisite intervales belnv. The Saco River is seen f r many miles, winding through a well-cultivated and populous farming country, studded with small hamlets. To the r. of Mt. Pleasant, and over Pleasant Pond, is the beautiful expanse of Sebago Lake, broken by Raymond Cape and several islands. On the nearer side of the lake are the heights of Saddle- 84 Route 13. MT. KIARSARGE. back Mt. (in Baldwin) and Peaked Mt. (in Sebago). The village of Den- mark is to the I. of and beyond Lovewell's Pond. To the S. of Kiarsarge, and close by, are the Green Hills of Conway, the chief of which (on the E.) is Blackhead; and Peaked Mt. and Middle Mt. are farther S. A little S. of S. E., and more distant, is a chain of hills in Maine, bounding the Saco Valley, of which the chief are Frost and Burnt-Meadow Mts. in Brownfield, Mt. Cutler and Tear Cap near Hiram Bridge, Bill-Merrill Hill in central Hiram, and Trafton Mt. and its connected heights in Cornish. Over the Green Hills is the island-studded Walker's Pond, near Conway Corner, over which is a part of Ossipee Lake. In the foreground are Silver Lake (in Madison), Knowles Pond and Pequawket Pond, with the long plains of Madison and Eaton. The Gline Mt. in Eaton lies nearly S., over which is the low and broad-based ridge of Green Mt. in Effingham. The view next includes the blue crest-line of the Ossipee Range, on whose r. summit the Melvin Peak is conspicuous. Far down the plain, to the r. of this range, a semicircular dot on the southern sky, is the summit of Monadnock, 100 M. distant, near the Massachusetts line. A short dis- tance to the r., and resting on the 1. flank of Chocorua, is the sharp peak of the true Kearsarge, nearly 60 M. distant. The field of vision now in- cludes N. Conway, clo e at hand below, with the outspread intervales of the Saco on the W., over which towers the imposing ridge of Moat Mt., all its peaks being visible. On the farther edge of the intervae are the White- Horse and Cathedral Ledges, with Echo Lake below the former. The main peaks of Chocorua are uplifted with powerful effect over the S. end of Moat, cutting the sky-line with their sharp serrated and craggy edges. Over the middle of Moat is Paugus, and over the X. p~ak is the swelling dome of Passaconaway, Avith Whiteface on the 1., while on the r. ai*e the britling points of Tripyramid, over Bear Mt. Looking more to the W., over that high spur of Kiarsarge which is called Mt. Bartlett, Humphrey's Ledge is seen making out from Mt. Attitash, with Table Mt. scarcely distinguishable over it, and the bold but formless pile of Bear Mt. still higher up. Over the r. shoulder of the latter is Tecum- seh, with a curious knob on its r. Up the Saco Valle}*, on the 1., is Tre- mont, with its symmetrically rounded peaks, below and against which is the conical Haystack. To the 1., and more distant, is the long apparent ridge near the Greeley Ponds; and over the S. peak of Tremont is the stair-like ridge of Osceola. Concerning the Name qf il Kiarsarr;e.' 1 ' 1 The old theory of the origin of the name Kearsarge (of which Kiarsarge is a modification) was, that the mountain in Warner which bears it rightfully was frequented, about the middle of the last century, by a hunter named Hezekiah »S7r£vnt, and that the name was derived from a popular abreviation, the mountain being called 'Kiah Sarge's Mountain Recent investigations have thrown doubt on tie hunter's existence, and have proven that it was so named before 1725, full 25 jears before he is reported to have seen it. The name is therefore probably derived MT. KIARSARGE. Route 11 85 from t'.:e Indians, perhaps from a corruption and clipping of Cowisr.hewaschook, a li lewhicu taey are known to have applied to it, and which means " Notch-Pointed Mountain of Pine-.*' A simple and more natural derivation is that given by certain old.T an iquarians, who said that it was a euphonization of kees, " high," and aicke, " place. 5 ' jt has long been regretted that two of the most famous peaks of the New-Hamp- shire mountains, visible from each other, and of nearly equal repute as summer-re- sores, bear names which are almost exactly similar. One of these is Bit. Kearsarge in tVarner, the other is Mt. Kiarsarge near N. Conway, and although the orthog- raphy is slightly diiTerent the pronunciation of the two words is usually the same. Tiie presence of two important mountains bearing similar names in the same Sate his given rise to so much confusion that many persistent but unavailing ef- forts have been made to restore to the Conway peak its supposed ancient name of Pequawket. The earlier name of this mountain was Pequawket, derived from the Indian name for all this portion of the Saco Valley (*ee Fryeburg). On Holland's map (of 1760) i: has no name, but on Carrigain's map (of 1816J it is called " Pequawket, formerly Kearsarge," indicating that the latter title was applied between 1760 and 1816, and that attempts were already being made to give the name of Pequawket. Within the time indicated occurred a migration of settlers from the vicinity of the true Kearsarge, who probably reasoned, " Lo, here is a goodly mountain, like unto that whence we came. Let us therefore have a new Kearsarge in this place. 1 ' The Elitor has adopted the name Kiarsarge in view of its strong local tenure, believing that it cannot now be displaced, and that it will be less confusing to tourists Judge Joel Eastman, of Con way, says: " All, from the oldest to the young- est, still call the mountain Kiarsarge, throughout this section of country, and any attempt to change its name will be futile. It will still go by the name of Kiarsarge until the Day of Judgment, and afterwards, if the memory of the things of this world remains afer that day The people of Boston, New York, and all the cities out of New Hampshire may call the mountain Pequawket, and that won't alter its name, so long as its godfathers and the generations after them call it Kiarsarge." Judge Lory Odell says : " The new name given to this mountain by Carrigaiu more than half a century ago has never been adopted or used by the Pigwackets (people of Conway) at all. By them it is now and always will be called Kearsarge. They know it by no ot>her name But in addition to the fact that the members of my tribe do still and always have stuck to the name of Kearsarge, I have another reason, in a fact which I would have perpetuated, for not adopting Carrigain's new name of Pigwarket. This reason is founded upon the fact stated in a recent letter to me from the Hon. G. V. Fox, formerly Assistant Secretary of the Navy, in which ho says : ' When we selected the name for the Kearsarge sloop-of-war, in which the gallant Winslow sunk the Alabama, tee had no thought whatever of the Kearsarge in Mrrrimac County. Some one interested in the Bartlett Mountain, the highest Kearsarge and commanding certainly the finest view, embracing as it does the beautiful Conway intervale, ought to write its history and correct, as I have often done, the error concerning the naming of the sloop-of-war Kearsarge.'' " 14. The White-Horse and Cathedral Ledges. " Probably the most delightful of North-Conway walks is the one ' over the river ' to E^ao Lake, the Cathedral, and Diana's Baths. Take the left-hand road that brandies from the highway at the Sunset Pavilion. The road leads through rich intervale fields, by handsome, graceful elm-trees. You have a remarkably beautiful view ol tne White Kange and the dusky purpie Carter Mountains, up the Saco valley. Yuu cross the covered bridge over the Saco, noticing the beauty of the thick wooded overhanging right bank, and the clearness ot the water running over shining stones below the bridge. Then you go over the little island, and cross a black, deep branch of the Saco, with a wide piece of coarse, rocky beach, made wider every year by the heavy fall and spring freshets." 86 Route U. CATHEDRAL LEDGE. Perhaps the most interesting feature of this excursion is the long drive across the intervale, in the midst of a rich agricultural plain and with pic- turesque mountains on all sides. Fine views of Moat, Kiarsarge, Double- Head, and the Green Hills are enjoyed from the meadow-road. (See also page 73.) The base of Moat Mt. is surrounded with singular semi-detached bluffs, ending in bold rocky faces, and covered with trees. The most notable of these are the Eagle Ledge and the Haystack, on the S., near the Swift River; the White-Horse and Cathedral Ledges, W. of N. Conway; and Humphrey's Ledge, on the N. The White-Horse Ledge is about 960 ft. high, and derives its name from the fancied resemblance of a light-colored spot on its front to a white horse dashing up the cliff. New-comers at N. Conway are seldom allowed to rest until they have seen, acknowledged, and complimented the equine form of this amorphous spot. The lines streaming down the cliff are the result of rain-water, changing the color of the granite and renovating the vegetation. Echo Lake is about 3 M. from N. Conway, across the Saco, and is visit- ed by turning to the 1. from the bridge-road and descending the first divergent road on the r., which reaches the shore in a few rods. The lake covers but a few acres, and has a bright sandy shore. The White-Horse Ledge hangs over it on the W., and is reflected as in a mirror, showing its buff, purple, and gray tints in rich duplication. The most favorable time to visit this point is at iate afternoon, towards sunset. There are boats on the lake; and from its further shore a steep path leads to the top of White- Horse Ledge, whence is enjoyed a very lovely view of the meadows. Thompson's Falls are about 4i M. from N. Conway, behind the great bluff of the White-Horse Ledge, on a tributary of the Saco. The falls are graceful, rather than otherwise notable, and are surrounded by great ina.^ses of shattered rocks. They are reached by a path (made by the White-Mt. Club of Portland) from the old school- house near Echo Lake through the Location Pasture. The Cathedral is 3 M. from N. Conway, and is reached by crossing the Saco and passing over the W.-side road through a gate between stone blocks, whence a short and pleasant road leads through the woods to the base, of the ledge. A path leads thence up over the debris into the great arch under the black overhanging cliffs. The Cathedral Ledge is just N. of the White-Horse Ledge, and rises to a height of 700 ft. above the Saco meadows. There is a small cavern among the boulders at the foot of the Ledge, which is called the Devil's Den. " An easy climb of 100 ft. carries one to a singular cavity in this Ledge, which visitors have named 'The Cathedral' And truly the waters, frosts, and storms that scooped and grooved its curves and niches seemed to have combined in frolic mimicry of Gothic art. The cave is 40 ft. in depth, and about 60 in height, and the outermost rock of the roofing spans the entrance with an arch, which, half of the way, is as symmetrical as if an architect had planned it The whole front of the recess is shaded with trees, which kindly stand apart just enough to frame off [Kiarsarge] in lovely symmetry, — so that a more romantic resting-place for an hour cr two in a warm afternoon can hardly be imagined." MOAT MOUNTAIN. Route 15- 87 Diana's Baths are a little over 3 M. from X. Conway, on the W. side of the Saco, reached by turning to the X. on the W.-side road and passing the Cathedral Ledge, then turning to the 1. on a well-travelled side-road, which soon conducts to the little refreshment-booth near the Baths. A short fore^ path leads thence to the ledges above. A small and limpid stream which flows out from The Hopper, under the X. peak of Moat Mt. and S. of Mt. Attitash here glides over a nearly level floor of granite, and makes a plunge of 10 ft. into a deep and rounded basin, which is filled to the brim with crystalline water. Along the stream, in this vicinity, are numerous potholes, some of which are 10 ft. in diameter and 10 ft. deep, still containing the rounded stones which have cut them out. Humphrey's Ledge is 6-7 M. from X. Conway, and is reached by keep- ing to the N on the charming W'.-side road. It is a bold and rocky bluff, connected with Mt. Attitash by a l»ng spur. It may be climbed, without difficulty; and the view is beautiful, including a wide area of intervales. Xear the Ledge i* the cottage in which lived and died Lady Blanche Murphy, daughter of the Earl of Gainsborough, who eloped with her Irish music-teacher, in 1870. and fled to America. From 1875 until her death, in 1880, they lived at X. Conway, where he taught music, and she wrote for the magazines. Mr. Murphy still occupies the cottage. 15. Moat Mountain is the fine ridge which borders the Saco Valley on the W., opposite N. Con- wav, and is a very conspicuous feature in the views from that village. It has been burnt over several times, and even the soil has thus been destroyed, so that it presents a remarkably bare and rugged appearance. The crest-line of the ridge is about 3 M. long, consisting of the N. and S. peaks and several intervening rocky hummocks, separated by shallow ravines, in which are burnt and fallen trees. The X. peak is 3,200 ft. high, and the S. peak 2,700 ft. The walk along this noble ridge is one of the most fascinating among the mountains, and gives views of scores of famous peaks, with the villages and fair meadows of Conway on the E. The new path made by the Messrs. Worcester (see page 73 a) supersedes the routes given below, and makes the asoeut more easy. " Less interesting in shape than many of the other ranges of hills in this neigh- borhood. Moat Mt. has remarkable beauty and variety of color, when the great masses of rock that largely compose it expose their red and yellow and purple surfaces over great areas, made desolate by the burning of the woods along its sides. Here are seen the last red clouds of sunset, and above its ragged summit lingers the last glow of the evening sky Frequently by day the farms and orchards that cover its base are bathed in bright sunshine, while the upper regions of the moun- tain are hidden by dense and dark thunder-clouds, which roll about in round masses dun as smoke." (Appletons' Journal.) The usual route up Moat Mt. is thus marked out : Follow the cart- road up stream from Diana's Bath (^.ee above), crossing two fences and a corduroy bridge, and for the next mile avoid swinging to the 1. Take 88 Route 15. MOAT MOUNTAIN. the foot-path at the end of the road, and after a long stretch of good walk- ing cross the Cedar Brook at a ruined bridge, and recross it about 100 yards beyond. Then ascend the S. bank through light underbrush to the lower ledges near a tall tree, whence a knoll is seen and aimed for ahead. Thence a bare ledge conducts up on the shoulder, the way leading between two large boulders. From the crest of the shoulder the top is visible, but an area of burnt and fallen trees must be crossed, and also a swamp, in which water can be found, either in the brook or in the pitcher- plants. The N. peak of Moat is 3,170 ft. high; the Red-Ridge peak (next to the S.), 2,7(50; the Bear-Ridge peak, 2,71)0; and the S. Moat, 2,740. The W. spur of Moat is an H-shaped group of four peaks, 2,900 ft. high, between N. Moat and Table Mt., and unfortunately nameless. Topographers recog- nize Table as a foot-hill of Moat, the Moat range being ended by the ravine E. of Bear Mt. The anonymous W. spur is well seen from Jackson and Bartlett. (J. Rayner Edmands, in Appalachian Vol. III. No. 1.) From the N. peak to Red Ridge it is 1 M ; to Bear Peak, If ; to S. peak, 2J-3. There is a local legend that the Indian name of Moat was Atie-omp-ske-a-6oe-di, meaning " a sleeping or lodging place of animals among standing or upright rocks." It has been suggested by a local clergyman that the present name of the mountain may have some connection with the " moot-hills" of England, once found in every county, as centres of judicial authority. There is a good path leading from B. Farnum's 3-4 M. from Conway Corner, on the SAvift-River road, which reaches the top of the S. peak of Moat in about l£ M. It was made by the people Avho ascend to pick blue- berries, vast numbers of which are found along the lower and middle slopes. Care must be taken not to lose the path where it crosses the bare ledges, as such wandering would necessitate a toilsome ascent through tangled thickets. The following extract from a letter written by a gentleman who lived at Conway for many years, will explain the origin of the name of this mountain, and establish its proper orthography: " I was born in this town (Conway) more than 70 years ago. All I can say about the origin of the name of the mountain is that for as long as I can remember, people in other parts of the town, when they went into the dis- trict on the W. side of the river, always called it going up to the Moats or over to the Moats, and they called the mountain Moat Mountain. When I was younger than I am now, ! asked old people why this district was called the Moats, and the mountain Moat Mountain. 1 was told that beaver-dams were found along the foot of the mountain, which were called ' moats,- and from that cause the mountain was called Moat Mountain " It may also be worthy of note_ that this name, " Moat," first appears on Dr. Belknap's map of the State, dated 1791 Geologically, the Moat Range is the newest of the White Mts. The N. peak of Moat Mt. is about 3,170 ft. high, or only 80 ft. lower than Kiarsarge. It is composed of high ledges, and is not encumbered by trees or bushes. In its N. side is the ravine of Diana's Bath, on whose farther side, and lower than Moat, is the ridge of Mt. Attitash. * The View. — The long village of N. Conway is looked down into across the rich and variegated meadows of the Saco, and its great hotels are seen MOAT MOUNTAIN. Route 15. 89 in all their external details, wrh the quaint Muscovite domes of the rail- road-station on the edge of the terrace. Over the ledge at the foot of the mountain is Kiarsarge Village, and the Intervale hamlet is farther up the valley, towards the pyramidal peak of Kiarsarge. Back of X. Conway are the Green Hills, with Peaked and Middle Mts. laid in against the higher hills on the E. The Green Hills do not reach the sky-line, and over them is seen a vast area of Western Maine, in which X. Fryeburg, Lovell, and other hamlets appear, with Mt. Sabattos, and the highlands of Water- ford and Norway. Over the r. slope of the Green Hills is the long bulwark of Mt. Pleasant, with a hotel on its middle peak, below which are Pleasant Pond and Lovewell's Pond, the rocky mound of Jockey Cap, and the white village of Fryeburg. The long sweep of the Saco Vailey, from Lower Bart- lett to Fryeburg, is the most fascinating element in the picture, and the ser- pentine river winds widely through its rich meadows, by clusters of graceful elms and before sequestered farm-houses. To the r. of Mt. Pleasant is the silvery gleam of Sebago Lake, with Saddleback Mt. plainly in sight, and the Frost and Burnt-Meadow Mts. of Brownfield nearer at hand. About S. E., over the Burnt-Meadow Mts., is the city of Portland, on the edge of the hori- zon, with Casco Bay beyond. The high hills of Hiram, Mt. Cutler and Tear Cap, are in this direction. Conway Centre shows its white houses farther to the S., near the long sheet of Walker's Pond, with the highlands of Cornish and Limington far away beyond. Then come the nearer ranges of Eaton and Freedom, — Cragged and Bickford Mts., on the State line, and Gline and Lyman Mts. on the W., with Mt. Prospect farther S. Conway Corner is then seen in the foreground, near the S. peak of Moat, which appears at the end of the long rocky ridge. On its r. the Green Mt. in Effingham cuts the sky-line, on whose r., and nearer, are the broad, bright sheets of Ossipee Lake and Silver Lake, with Whitton Pond still nearer, over which is W. Ossipee. The Ossipee Range next meets the horizon with its long blue line; and between Eagle Ledge and the massive buttresses of Chocorua the valley of the Swift Paver enters, running to the W. for many miles, across which are the vast ridges and blanched peaks of Chocorua, cut into by the profound ravine of the Champney Falls. To this succeeds the Sandwich Range, — the low and craggy Paugus, the pointed crest of Whiteface, and the dark swell of Passaconaway, with the white mound of Potash at its foot, over which is the sierra of Tri- pyramid. A little S. of W., and to the r. of Tripyramid, is the distant ridge of Tecumseh. Table Mt. is about 2 M. distant, and is marked by a white spot, over which rises the long and uneven crest-line of Bear Mt., with the lofty peaks of Moosilauke and Osceola beyond. Farther to the N. is the bold prominence of Green's Cliff, flanked by the well-marked white knobs of Tremont, with Haystack nearer and less lofty. Then Hancock comes into view, with the formidable notched summit of Carrigain on its r., and 90 Route 15. MOAT MOUNTAIN. the peaks of Lowell, Anderson, and Nancy extending towards the E. Farther away, just over the r. flank of Carrigain, is a portion of Mt. La- fayette. Mt. Bond is over the r. of Anderson; and the Twin Mts. ap- pear over Mt. Nancy, under which is Hart's Ledge. Farther to the r. is the lofty double crest of Mt. Willey, and the red overhanging peak of Mt Crawford is directly in the White- Mt. Notch, with the rounded disk of Mt Willard on the r. Adjoining Crawford is the flat top of Mt. Resolution, with the Giant's Stairs beyond, their characteristic shape not discernible. Somewhat nearer appear the cone of Parker and the ledgy sides of Lang- don, over which is the Montalban Ridge, hiding all but the peaks of Webster, Jackson, Clinton, Pleasant, Frankiin, and Monroe. Washington then appears, W. of N., with the lofty plain of Boott's Spur wheeling oul from its S. flank, indented by the Gulf of the Slides. Close at hand, across the Saco Valley, are the crags of Mts. Stanton and Pickering, over whose r. are the reddish ledges of Iron Mt., far beyond which, and over the high cliffs of Huntington's Ravine, on the r. of Mt. Washington, are the noble peaks of Adams and Madison. The view now passes over the Jackson glen, with its little hamlet, and the partially cleared sides of the low Eagle and Black Mts., to Mt. Wild-Cat, on the r. of the Pink- ham Notch, which is separated from the Carter Dome, on the r., by the wedge-shaped Carter Notch. Farther to the r. is the massive ridge of Moriah, over Black Mt., with Mt. Ingalls beyond, in upper Shelburne; and Goose-Eye is still more distant. Nearly N. N. E., across the Saco Valley, is Thorn Hill, back of which is Thorn Mt., and Double-Head appears beyond, over which, and r. of Mt. Sable, are the white peaks of Baldface. Nearly over the indented summit of Eastman is the rounded swell of Mt. Royce, on whose r. is the long, bold ridge of Speckled Mt. As the view extends over Humphrey's Ledge and up the E.-Branch Valley, 1. of Kiarsarge, several conspicuous peaks are seen in Western Maine. The thin ridge which runs to the N. from Moat, around the head of the Diana's-Bath Ravine, heads into the lower summit of Mt. Attitash, which is practically a spur of Moat Mt. The ridge extends S. from the N. peak and soon breaks down in a series of great steps. Passing thence over a minor hummock, a curving hollow is traversed, and the central peak is crossed. On its S. side is a deeper hollow in which the traveller finds a grateful path, winding through a tangled mass of burnt and fallen tree-trunks, which extends for several rods. The higher ground towards the S. peak is now ascended, and that peak is soon reached. The S. peak is 2,700 ft. high, and is surmounted by high bare ledges. It falls off on the S. into the valley of the Swift River, whence it is easily ascended. . . ... MOAT MOUNTAIN. Route 15. 91 * The View. — Toward the N. E. is the village of N. Conway, so near that most of its buildings can be distinguished readily; and Kiarsarge Village is a little to the 1. In the foreground, and extending for several miles to the N-, are the lovely intervales of the Saco, whose predominant color is a rich green, alternated occasionally with the lighter colors of grain-fields or the deep browns of ploughed ground. Through this fair plain the Saco River runs in a series of graceful meanderings; while pic- turesque groves are scattered here and there along its sinuous banks. Near the foot of the mountain Echo Lake is seen, over which is the Inter- vale House; and the stately pyramid of Mt. Kiarsarge is still farther to the N. E. To the 1. of the lake is the White-Horse Ledge, beyond which the valley is seen, running N. into the mountains, above the houses of Lower Bartlett. Over N. Conway are the graceful rolling lines of the Green Hills, through whose N depression is a part of Cpper Kezar Pond, in Maine. The Peaked and Middle Mts. are near the lower part of the Green Hills. Nearly due E. is the long ridge of Mt. Pleasant, with a hotel near its centre ; and farther to the r. is Lovewell's Pond, near the village of Frye- burg and the rock of Jockey Cap. In this direction the view extends for leagues down the Saco Valley, passing over Conway Centre. To the r. of Mt. Pleasant a por.'ion of Sebago Lake is seen, flanked on the r. by Sad- dleback Mt., in Baldwin. Over Walker's Pond, which is nearly S. E., and 7 M. distant, the Burnt-Meadow Mrs. of Brownfield appear; far be- yond which the city of Portland and the waters of Casco Bay mav be seen, if ihe day is clear. The hamlet of Conway Corner is 5 M. S. E., beyond which are Cragged, Legion, and other mountains near the State line, with the Cornish hills still farther away, over the lower part of Walk- er's Pond. The yellow and sinuous band of the Swift River runs from Conway Corner towards Moat, and is bordered by occasional clearings. Farther to the r., and more distant, are Gline and Lyman Mts., in Madison, over which is Mt. Prospect, in Freedom ; and still farther to the r. is the broad-based bulk of the Green Mt. in Effingham. To the r. of the latter is the blue mirror of Ossipee Lake, flanked by the nearer sheets of Silver Lake and Whitton Pond. The Ossipee Range is due S., many leagues distant, and runs to the r. until it meets Chocorua. The E. peak of Chocorua is first seen, next to which stands the majestic higher crest, about 6 M. distant, across the Swift-River Valley. To the r. of the W. peak of Chocorua is the lower top of Mt. Paugus ; and then comes Whiteface, towering over the long ridge of Passaconaway, whose peak lies to the r , and is marked by a slide. At its foot is the white and skull-shaped Potash, over which ap- pears the high three-headed ridge of Tripyramid. The course of the Swift-River Valley is then followed to the W., ending at the white crest of Tecumseh, over the r. flank of Tripyramid, and near the Pemigewas- 92 Route 16. CONWAY. set Valley ; on whose right is the tall and remote peak of Osceola. Still farther to the W. is the dim blue ridge of Moosilauke. In the nearer foreground are Bear Mt-, with white spots on its side, and the flat-topped Table Mt. ; over which are the white caps of Tre- mont and the pointed cone of Haystack. On the 1. of and nearly over Tremont is the lofty Mt. Hancock, falling away rapidly on the 1. ; and the still higher peak of Carrigain is on the r., over Haystack. The sharp, Mack spire of Mt. Lowell appears on the r., with Mts. Anderson and Nancy farther to the E. Through the gaps between these the blue ridges of the Twin Mts. are visible, over the W. spurs of Moat; and farther to the right is the high crest of Mt. Willey. The view next rests on the N. peak of Moat, to which a long and nearly straight ridge leads up. On its r., and far away, is the high hemisphere of Mt. Pleasant, with the plateau of Franklin beyond, on the r., and the crags of Monroe still higher. More to the N. E. is the crest of Washing- ton, towering over and behind the white ledges of Iron Mt., with the al- p=ne plain of Boott's Spur extending to the r. Nearly N., through the Pinkham Notch, the clear-cut pyramid of Adams is seen, flanked by the lower crest of Madison. On the E. of the Notch is Mt. Wild-Cat, which is separated from the Carter Dome by the profound ravine of the Carter Notch. The pleasant glen of Jackson is below and toward Mt. Carter, and contains the pasture-dotted hill-ranges of the Eagle and Black Mts. Thorn Mt. is on the r. of the valley and 1. of Kiarsarge, and beyond it are the mamelons of Double-Head, the high pallid crests of Baldface, the wooded summits of Eastman and Slope, and the rounded ledges of Royce. 16. Conway. Hotels. — The Conway House is a large and well-built hotel, about £ M. from the station ($2 a clay, 8 8-10 a week). The Pequawket House is also in the village, and charges $ 6 - 9 a week. Railroads. - The B. & M. R. R. (E. Viv.) has a station here, 132 M. from Bos- ton ; and there is a statioD on the Portland & Ojrdensburg R R. within 3 M. Distances. — To the Washington Boulder, 1 M. : Allard's Hill, 2 ; N. Conway, 5; Echo Lake, 6 ; Buttermilk IIo'low, 5: Potter's Farm, 7; J Piper's (path up Mt. Chocorua), 6: Chocorua Lake, 9: Frveburg, 8; Chatham, 16; Swift-River Falls, 8 ; Champney Falls, 10 : Shackford's* (Swift-River Intervale), 14. The Con- way House has a good livery-stable. The hamlet which is usually called Conway has also the names of Conway Corner and Chatauque (the latter being an ancient and popular local title). It is pleasantly situated on the rich level land at the conflu- ence of the Pequawket, Swift, and Saco Rivers, and is surrounded by pic- turesque rural scenery, without much sensation or variety. Chatauque is usually visited by people who wish to enjoy quiet rest and pure moun- tain-air, and who dislike the brilliant display of N. Conway. It is 5-6 M. from the latter place, by an uneventful road. There are a few small mills here, and a Congregational church. CONWAY. Route 10. 93 The high peak of Mt. Washington is seen from this point, far away up the Saco Valley, with the ponderous mass of Moat Mt. near at hand on the 1., and the graceful pyramid of Kiarsarge on the r. About 1^ M. N. E. is the shaggy top of Pine Hill; and the foot-hills of Mt. Chocorua are near by, on the W. The road on the W. bank of the Saco may be followed to the X. for 6 M. to Echo Lake and the Ledges (see page 85), whence the return may be effected by crossing the river and descending through N. Conway. The Washington Boulder, which some have called the largest in the world, lies 1 M. to the N E. of the village, and is well worthy of a visit. Allan!' s Hill is a low spur of Mt. Chocorua, about 2 M. from Conway. It commands a beautiful view over the Saco Valley, and around the environing mountains. This is one of the pleasantest short walks in the vicinity. Conway Centre is a small hamlet near the Saco River, about 3 M. X. E. of Conway, containing the mansion of Judge Joel Eastman. Conway Street is a line of farm-houses in the E. part of the town, X. of the Saco, and fronting on the pleasant intervales. It lies between Green Mt. and Fryeburg, and is on the W. road to Chatham. Buttermilk Hollow is 5 M. from Conway, and is reached by passing down over the old county road. It is a beautiful little glen, containing a picturesque lakelet which is often called Buttermilk Pond. The view from the lower side of the glen up the Saco Valley to Mt. Washington is one of the finest in this region, and is in its best estate during the latter part of the afternoon. This drive was one of the favorite excursions dur- ing the earlier times of summer-touring among the mountains. Potter's Farm is a locality on the E. of Walker's Pond (12 M. from N. Conway), whence a peculiarly rich * view is obtained, including the chief Conway and White Mts., seen to fine effect across the pretty, island- studded lake. Starr King first brought th's point into notice, saving: " Fortunate will the tourist be who can find any other view, along this whole favorite avenue to the mountains, that he can call more fascinat- ing." The lake (which deserves a better name) is 3 M. long, with an area of 14 M., and contains four islets. The view includes the Green Hills of Conway, a little W. of X., over which is the graceful cone of Kiar- sarge. About X. X. W., between the near Pine Hill and the Green Hills, the visitor looks up the valleys of the Saco and the Ellis to the main range of the White Mts., which is overtopped by Mt. Washington. Farther to the 1. are the ledges opposite X. Conway, with the immense bulk of Moat Mt. heaving into the sky above them. Then the great depression of the Swift-River Valley is seen, with Table Mt. on its r. side; while the peaks of Chocorua appear, 6 - 7 M. distant, a little X. of W. Farther to the S. are the long ranges of Ossipee, and the Eaton hills close in on the S., near at hand. In the E. are the high hills of Brownfield and Fryeburg. A few miles S. of Conway the old stage-road crosses a hill-top whence is 94 Route 17. CONWAY. obtained a noble view. The view from Eaton Hill, in days of stage-travel, was the culminating pleasure of the ride from Centre Harbor to Conway. The Washington Boulder is 30 ft. high, 46 long, and 35 wide, and weighs 3,868 tons Near Conway Centre, on the P. & 0. R. R., are the Centre House and the boarding-houses ofWm. S. Chase, David Wakefield, and Mrs. Atherton. The White-Mountain Mineral Spring (a remarkably pure table water, for which high medicinal virtues are claimed) is near the Washington Boulder, on Pine Hill. The Smuggler's Care., or Stone Barn, is a cavern on Rock-House Hill, in Madison, reached by a far-viewing road. " Until about the beginning of the War of 1812, the settlement in the S. W. cor- ner of Conway consisted of scarcely anything more than a saw and grist mill, Ab- bott's one-story tavern, and perhaps one or two houses besides. About that time it began to become a village, and the jokers among the Pigwackets gave first one and then another nickname, most of them not very complimentary. Goose Creek, I remember, was one of them. While this was going on, the newspapers of the day reported that Gen. Dearborn, who, if I remember rightly, was not much of a favorite with the people at that time, had crossed the line into a district in Canada, at the N. W extremity of Lake Champlain, whose name is printed in Bouchette*s British Dominions in North America, indifferently Chateaugay or Chateau guay, evidently an Indian name with French orthography, and had captured and burnt a hamlet, with the house of Squire Odell, together with the Squire, no doubt a worthy magis- trate of His Majesty, in it. For some notion or other about this military exploit, which at this distant date lam unable to explain, the Pigwackets determined that Chateaugay was the proper name for and that it should be thenceforward through all time the name of the then just blooming village. Like myself, however, the other Pigwackets did not know how to pronounce it, aDd they at once corrupted and changed it into a word whose pronunciation may be written Shat'-i-gee, and with that pronunciation it has remained among the Pigwackets the name of that rather sightly and pretty village until the present day. '' Me judice, the platform of the Shatigee railroad-station, affords the best view which can be had anywhere of the many near and distant mountain-summits which surround and overlook the beautiful valley of the Upper Saco." {Judge Lory OdelVs letter to the Editor.) 17. N. Conway to the Glen House. The stages no longer run from N. Conway to the Glen, but the first part of the following description may be found useful by carriage-parties. The stages for the Glen House leave Glen Station, 6 M. from N. Conway, three times daily, connecting with the P. & 0. trains. They reach the Glen House in 3 hrs. (Fare $2.50.) Distances. — N. Conwav to Glen Station, 6 M. ; Jackson Falls, 9 M. ; the Rog- ers Farm, 12 M. ; the Glen-Ellis Falls, 15^ M. ; the Crystal Cascade, 17 M. ; the Emerald Pool, 19 M. ; the Glen House, 191 M. (see page 109 b). Elevations cf various points on the road N. Conway, 521 ft. ; Lower Bartlett, about 520 ; Goodrich Falls, 708 ; Jackson, 759; the height-of-land in the Pinkham Notch, 2,018; Glen House, 1,632. The road runs out from N. Conway to the N. W., through the Cathe- dral Woods, and soon passes the Intervale House, with Mt. Kiarsarge on the r. and Moat Mt. on the 1., opening pleasant views over the Saco inter- vales. A continuous line of detached houses extends from the Intervale House to Lower Bartlett, where the E. Branch is crossed. Beautiful pros- pects are afforded on this section of the route. The road bends around to the W., with Thorn Mt. on the r. and Moat Mt. on the 1., and the Dundee and Thorn-Hill Boads are seen diverging to the r. At Glen Station the Ellis Biver is reached, and the stage turns to the N. up its long valley, passing through alternate strips of forest and clearing, and soon crossing LOWER BARTLETT. Route 18. 95 the stream on a covered bridge at the former site of the Goodrich Falls. The hamlet of Jackson is then traversed, with Jackson Falls on the r., Thorn and Tin Mts. on the E., and Iron Mt. on the S. W. The road then ascends the upper Ellis Valley, with the Eagle Mts. on the r., obtaining several brilliant views of the White Mts. from open ridges among the for- ests. The prospect from the Rogers Farm is especially notable. Beyond the old Cook Farm the Ellis River is crossed, and the forests grow thicker, the road following closely the course of the river, and passing between Mt. Wild-Cat and the great ridges below Boott's Spur. When near the height-of-land the entrances to the Glen-Ellis and Crystal Falls are passed, and impressive but momentary views open to the 1. After ascending the long Spruce Hill the road begins to drop down into the Peabody Glen, and soon reaches the Glen House (see Route 24). 18. Lower Bartlett. Hotels. — East-Branch House and Pequawket House, 75-100 guests each, $7-12 a week. Boarding-houses of C. A. Tasker, Cornelius Stilphen (near Glen Station), and others. Distances. — East-Branch House to Jackson, 4 M ; to Thorn Hill, 3 ; Dundee, 10 ; Iron Mt., 4 ; Bartlett Boulder, 3 ; Glen House, 1G ; Around the Square, 7 ; Art- ist's Falls, 5 ; the Ledges and Echo Lake, 7. Lower Bartlett, or Bartlett Corner, is 3£-4 M. from N. Conway, near the great bend of the Saco Valley, and is nearly surrounded by Mts. Kiar- sarge, Moat, and Thorn. The road to the S. as far as the Intervale House is lined with frequent farm-houses, and there are several pleasant drives in the vicinity. Bartlett is a rugged town which includes two mountain-ranges, and is rich in picturesque scenery. The narrow meadows of the Saco are about the only lands fit for cultivation. The population is about 1,000 in and about the hamlets of Lower Bartlett and Upper Bartlett (see Route 37). The hills are famous for an abundance of berries in their season. A path leaves the road a short distance below the East-Branch House, and ascends Mt. Kiarsarge, passing over the ridge of Mt. Bartlett. This trail has recently been re-opened. The favorite drive in this vicinity is by the Dundee Road to Jackson and back over the Th^rn-Hi'l Road (10 M.). No- ble mountain-views are afforded from many points on this drive. One of the most fascinating prospects of the Saco intervales is obtained from the little church near Lower Bartlett, about 3 M. from N. Conway. This view is best enjoyed towards evening, when the valley is flooded with sunset light, and then "one might believe that he was looking through an air that had never enwrapped any sin, upon a floor of some nook of the primitive Eden." At Lower Bartlett is the confluence of the Saco River and the East Branch, a rapid stream which rises in the Wild-River Forest and forms the deep valley that separates the Carter Range from Mt. Baldface. Within J 96 Route 19. LOWER BARTLETT. M. of the mouth of this stream is the mouth of the Ellis River, which flows down from Tuckerman's Ravine and the outer spurs of Mt. Washington. Each of these streams is about 12 M. long. A cart-track diverges from the Dundee Road, 3-4 M. N. of Lower Bartlett, and runs into the East-Branch valley, whence a trail leads in 1£ M. to Mountain Pond, a small sheet of water which was formerly much frequented by moose. The pond is about 3 M. from the farms in Chatham, and is near Mts. Sable, Eastman, Slope, and Baldface, forest-clad summits which rise out of a dense wilderness and are rarely visited by tourists. The Rocky Branch empties into the Saco about 3 M. W. of Lower Bart- lett, after a rapidly descending course of 12 M. over a rocky bed. It rises in the gorge between New River and the Montalban Ridge (not in Oakes's Gulf, as some say), and descends on the E. side of the latter, through tangled and nearly impassable glens. A rude road ascends this valley for 3-4 M., between Mts. Pickering and Stanton on the 1. and Iron Mt. on the r., pass- ing through the farming community known as Jericho, or Sligo. Pedes- trians can follow the cart-track across Iron Mt. from the end of this road, or pass along the S. slopes, near the iron-mines, to Jackson. The summit of Iron Mt. may be reached on this side (see Route 23). The township of Bartlett was originally granted to William Stark, Capt. Vere Royce, and other veterans of the French and Indian wars, and was settled about the year 1770. In 1777 a new group of pioneers came up from the town of Lee, but their horses, dissatisfied with the new country, started off for Lee, got lost in the mountains, and all perished. The nearest market for the settlers was at Dover, whither they went in winter, on snow-shoes, dragging hand-sleds. In summer they freighted their meagre produce down the Saco in dug-out boats. A large portion of the sustenance of the early settlers was derived from the flesh of the deer and bears which they shot or caught in cunningly devised traps. The first farms were opened in the glen of Upper Bartlett The town was named in honor of Josiah Bartlett, first American governor of New Hampshire, and a signer of the Declaration of Inde- pendence. One of the pioneers of Lower Bartlett was Hon. John Pendexter, who came up from Portsmouth, over 80 M., on foot, dragging his household furniture on a hand- sled, and accompanied by his wife, who rode on an old horse, seated on a feather-bed and holding a child in her arms. Out of the wilderness they created comfort, and became a highly honored family. The lands of Bartlett were much injured by the slides of 1826, and wolves made sad havoc among the flocks. Judge Pendexter had a rich estate in Lower Bartlett, and about 10 M. above was the broad estate of the Hon. Obed Hall, formerly an officer in the battles on the Delaware, and then a Con- gressman. 19. Mount Attitash is a new provisional name given by the Editor to the lofty N. spur of Moat Mt., whence Humphrey's Ledge projects into the Saco Valley. It is joined to the N. peak by a long bending ridge which forms the head of the ravine of Cedar Brook. The view was first made public by some scientific gentlemen who ascended it in 1875, mistaking it for Table Mt. They found its sides teeming with blueberries, whence the above title, Attitash being the Indian name for blueberries. (See also "NVhittier's poem, " The M:iids of Attitash.'') It is ascended from the road IJ M. W. of the Olen Station, 1 hr.'s march leading to the first bare spot and another to the MT. ATTITASH. Route 19. 97 summit. The road should be left near a barn on the 1. , and some aid may be ob- tained by the logging roads on the slopes of the mountain. * The View. — W. of X., 2 M. distant across the Saco Valley, is the ledgy rampart of Mt. Stanton, over which, about 2 M farther, are the reddish-yellow rocks on Iron Mt., culminating in a rounded crest. Over the 1. flank of Iron is the noble peak of Washington, with its houses in cloudland. Over its long r. flank peers a tiny part of the crest of Adams: and farther to the r. is the curving head of Madison, over the r. flank of Iron, falling away into the Pinkham Notch. On the E. of the Notch is the long and monotonous ridge of Mt. Wild-Cat, descending rapidly on the r. into the Carter Notch, on whose r. is the fine peak of the Carter Dome. Nearer at hand on this line are the partially cleared Eagle Mts., above Jackson. To the r. of and beyond Carter are parts of the Moriah range; and the two white crests of Baldface are next seen shining from dark rounded tops, nearly over Sable. On the r. of Baldface are the peaks of Double-Head, the nearer one having a flat top and the farther one being more pointed. Tin and Thorn Mts. are nearer, and in a line towards Double-Head, and Thorn Hill is still nearer. Then come the twin crests of Mt. Gemini, running to the r. into Kiarsarge, whose noble cone rises above the nearer spur of Mt. Bartlett. Farther to the r. are the clustering Green Hills of Conway, over and to the r. of which the view passes far into Western Maine. Beautiful vistas are there given over the Saco Valley, with its many summer homes. Then the high near N. peak of Moat Mt. closes in on the S., filling the horizon in that direction. Most of the view to the S. and S. W. is shut otat by the near ridges of Moat, which ascend to a great height. About W. S. W. parts of Tripyra- mid and Sandwich Dome are visible, with Tecumseh beyond. The view then passes over the adjacent Bear Mt., with its forest-clad double ridges, on whose 1. is the low mound of Green's Cliff, with the uneven crest-line of Osceola over it. On the r. of Bear Mt. is the high summit of Tremont, with Haystack near it. The shapeless top of Hancock is then seen, crossed on the r. by the high mass of Carrigain, on whose r. and adjoining are the peaks of Mt. Lowell and the Nancy Range Far away over the r. of Carrigain are Mts. Lincoln and Lafayette, of the Franconia Range; and parts of the Twin Mts. and Mts. Bond and Guyot appear over the Nancy Range. Looking more to the N., across the Saco Valley, the noble alpine peak of Willey is seen, falling off sharply on the I., and with the clear-cut but lowly head of Crawford below. Next to the r. is the cone of Mt. Parker, flanked by the rounded top of Resolution, between which is the peak of Webster. Over the r. of Resolution is the crest of Giant's Stairs, whence the dark Mcntalban Ridge runs N. to Mt. Washington, with parts of the Presidential Range bevond. 5* * G 98 Route 20 JACKSON. , 20. Jackson. Hotels. — *Wentworth Hall and Cottages (Gen M. C TTentworth), 200 guests (see page 99 b). Iron-Mountain Hnu?e, 75 guests. Gray's Inn (C. W. Gray, 75 guests, S> 1-12 a week.) Jackson-Falls House (Trickey Brothers, 100 guests, $ 9 14 a week). Glen-Ellis House (S. M. Thompson, 75 guests, § 8-15 a week). Eagle-Mountain House (C E. Gale). 1 M. distant, toward Carter Notch; 75 guests, $8-12 a week. Boarding-houses of \V. E. Elkins, J. L. Wilson, I. II. Harriman, S. Meserve, J. D. Towle, and others ($5-9 a week). 3 M. up the glen, towards Carter Notch, is James B£. Perkins's Carter-Notch House. Stages. — The Glen House stages pass through the village thrice daily each way. Railroad — The hotels send carriages to the Glen Statiou, 3£ M distant, to take passengers to and from the P is. O trains. distances —The follov. ing table was prepared bv the hotel-keeper: Jackson to Winniweta Falls, 3_V M. : to the Fernald Farm, 4-5 M. : to the Glen-Ellis Falls, 9 M. ; to the Crystal Cascade, 10A M : to the Glen House, 12 M. ; to Grant's Ledfe, 5 M. ; to theVarfer Notch, 10 M ; to Thorn Mt., 3 M : to Iron Mt.. 4 M. ; "to Double-Head, U M. ; the Hillside Circuit, 5 M. ; the Thorn-Hill Road, 8 M. : the Dundee Road, 10 M. ; N. Conway, 9 M.; the Cathedral Ledge, etc., 10-12 M. ; Mt. Kiarsarge, 9 M. The town of Jackson has 474 inhabitants, and occupies 31,968 acres, of which over 26,000 are unimproved, covering the Tin, Double-Head. Sable, Black, Eagle, Wild-Cat. Carter Dome, and Iron Mts.. and their spurs. The hamlet of Jackson City is in the S. part of the town, at the confluence of the Wild-Cat Brook and Ellis River, and is a favorite resort for summer- visitors, being situated in a pretty glen 759 ft. above the sen, at the centre of several interesting excursion-routes. It has a small Baptist church, where, during the summer, services are conducted by Episcopal and other divines Over 500 tourists sojourn at this hamlet during parts of every summer, resulting in an annual profit to the inhabitants of $25,000. Pleasant views of Tin, Thorn, Moat, and Iron Mts. are obtained from this point. The Jackson Falls are in the village, and are visible from the high- way bridge over the Wild-Cat Brook. The stream is precipitated over a dark ledge in white and glistening bands, and falls into quiet pools below. These falls are very attractive in seasons of high water, and are easily approached on either side. Along the upper course of the brook are favor- ite resorts of the artists and trout-fishers who visit Jackson in summer. Good trouting is found in the streams near Jackson, and towards the Carter Notch. Bears were unusually numerous and audacious in this vicinity in the year 1875, and the inhabitants believed that they came mostly from the White-Mt. Notch, whence they had been frightened by the explosions of the blasts on the new railroad. During the same season a deer weighing 300 pounds was killed in the town. This town was named New Nadbury by its first settlers, because most of them came from Madbury. In the year 1S00 it was incorporated by the name of Adams ; but in 1829, during the political contest between Mr. Adams and Mr. Jackson, all the voters in the town (except one) voted for the latter, — and the town soon as- sumed his name. The first settler was Benjamin Copp, who moved here in 1778, ai d remained alone until 1790, when 5 Madbury families joined him. The highland re gions of the town are now much used as grazing ground for cattle and sheep, an ong whom the bears sometimes make havoc. The Jnckson people became dis- contented during the late civil war, on account of the crushing burdens of taxation, JACKSON. Route 20. 99 and, after some acts of violence on their part, it was found necessary to occupy the place with national troops, who were quartered in the church. The Fernald Farm is 4-5 M. from Jackson, and is reached by an old deserted road, very hilly and rough. It is near the top of the Eagle Bits., on a level with the head of Tuckerman's Ravine, and not more than 4-5 M. from Mt. Washington. This point affords the best view of the great mountain and its ravines that can be obtained on this side, being favored both by its altitude and nearness. The most favorable position for the ob- cerver is on the ledge about 40 rods from the old house. As seen from this side, Washington assumes its proper pre-eminence among the other peaks of the main range; and the shape and profundity of its ravines are well comprehended. The best time for a visit is at morning, when the light and shadow effects in the gorges aid in studying their forms. The Eagle, Mts. form the low range which runs nearly N. N. W. from Jackson, between the Ellis River and Wild-Cat Brook, forming a spur of Mt. Wild-Cat. The summit of this range which rises E. of the Rogers Farm is called Spruce Mt. This range has been cleared at several points, and deserted farms are found high up on its flanks. This range derived its name from the fact that one of its upper crags was formerly the abode of bold and rapacious eagles. To it is attached the legend of the \Vlrite- Mt. hermit, who is reported to have dwelt in a cavern near its S. slope. According to the tradition, Thomas Crager was a man of Massachusetts in the 17th century, whose wife was executed as a witch, and soon afterwards a marauding party of Indians carried away his only child, a well-beloved daughter. Weary of life, he left the settlements and plunged into the wilderness, vainly seeking his child among the villages of Pequawket, and finally retiring to a cave among these mountains, where he dwelt for many years, living on game, and unmolested by the awe-struck and superstitious Indians Long afterwards, by the aid of an old Androscoggin Indian, he found his daughter among the Indians on the St. Lawrence River, living as a squaw. The road to Black Mt. affords a fine series of views of Double-Head;, Thorn Mt., and Mt. Washington. It runs out to the N., and in a little over 1 M. passes the divergence of the Dundee Road. At the angle of these roads stood a deserted Free-Will Baptist church, long used as the studio of G. S. Merrill, the landscape-painter. The Black-Mt. road keeps to the 1. and passes along the flanks of the ridge, which is a long, low spur of the Carter Dome. Descending into the valley on the W., it crosses the Wild-Cat Brook about 2 M. beyond the church, and the re- turn may be effected down the valley of this brook. A cart-track which diverges to the 1. from the Dundee Road about 1 M. from the church leads into the wilderness to a point on the East Branch of the Saco, within 2 M. of the summit of Mt. Sable. The Winniweta Falls are on Miles Brook, which flows into the Ellis River near the Rogers Farm, about 3 M. N. W. of Jackson. They are reached by a rugged path | M. long, through the woods, and fall about 25 ft. over broken ledges. 1 M. farther up is a long rapid, on the same stream. 99 a Route 20. JACKSON. Prof. C. R. Cross says : " A spot that should be mentioned is the view from Prospect Farm (the Hall farm), near Jackson. Besides the distant view of the Mts. towards the Pemigewasset Valley and Sandwich Mtsi, the nearest view of Mt. Washington to be obtained in that neighbor- hood is seen. It is far superior to that from the Fernald farm. After passing Jonathan Davis's house, where the Carter-Notch path begins, the road turns and leads to the farm. A half hour's walk leads to the ledge from which the view is obtained. I think the view of Washington the best from that side, if perhaps I except that from the edge of Carter Notch." Prof. Cross adds: "If one continues on the Iron-Mt. road (Jackson), past the road-summit, and descends to its terminus, an ex- ceedingly impressive view of the Giant's Stairs is obtained. The road is that mentioned on page 104. The walk through the woods to Jericho, there spoken of, though long, is very delightful, the view just mentioned being the gem." The summit of Thorn Mt. has recently been cleared, and the exit of the path from the, pasture has been marked by a guide-board, under the direction of Mr. Edmands of the Appalachian Club. Wilson's farm is on the Hillside Circuit, 2 M. from Jackson, and enjoys a noble and extended view. Here George Loring Brown, the American Claude Lorraine, has dwelt, while making sketches among the neighboring glens for the great pictures with which the metropolitans were afterwards charmed and fascinated. Shapleigh, Niles, Merrill, Champney, and other artists, have found abundant material in these fair glens and over the adjacent hills. The Carter Notch is now an appanage of Jackson, by virtue of the construction of a new path from that side. The road running N. from Jackson up the Wild-Cat Valley is followed for 5 M. thnmgh very grand scenery ; and the path diverges near the house of Jonathan G. Davis, its constructor, who is a good guide and woodsman, patient and quiet. The length of the path is over 3 M., and it leads up the narrowing glen of the Wild-Cat, crossing the stream three times, and then following tributary torrents. " The path runs for long distances by the side of the babbling brook, and being quite gentle in ascent, save for the last J M. of its 3| M., offers opportunity for an agreeable walk, by charming nooks of moss- covered rocks, and through a forest-growth picturesquely varied." Near the Ponds in the Notch the old camp has been repaired, and a new closed camp has been built, of hemlock bark, with a stove and other conveniences. This shelter is large enough to accommodate six persons. The Ponds have been rendered much more accessible on each side ; and the new route up Carter Dome gives an added interest (see page 109 6). Jackson lias gained ground as a summer resort more rapidly, of late years, than any \ illage on the E. sida of the mountains; and its new and enlarged hotels show how large is the demand for accommodations here. 'JACKSON. Route 20. 99 6 The hamlet is so pretty, and is so charmingly embosomed in the high hills, that the first view of it is enough to win the regard of the passing traveller, and allure him to remain. One of the noblest prospects is that which is obtained of Moat Mt., down the green meadows to the. S. ; and several easily accessible view-points have been discovered near the Glen- Ellis House. The surroundings of the Jackson-Falls and Thorn-Mt. Houses have been so far improved that they are very pleasant to look upou and to dwell among. There are numerous points of interest in the woods back of the Thorn-Mt. House, including wild little glens, flumes, boulders, and very characteristic bits of woodland scenery, along the tangled hill-sides. Paths lead upward to these localities, all of which bear distinguishing names. In 1878, Jackson celebrated the centennial anniversary of its settlement in a very grand manner, with addresses from Gov. Prescott and other eminent gentlemen, and various other picturesque and interesting features. The artists were the discoverers of Jackson as a centre of rare landscape beauties. Boardman, Geary, (lark, Hoit, and Bracket! were their pio- neers, the first coming as early as 1847. The Jackson-Falls House was opened in 1858; the Iron-Mountain, in 1861 (burnt in 1877); the Thorn- Mountain, in 1869; and the Glen-Ellis, in 1876. In the early days, Cole and Durand, Chester Harding, Judge Story, and Daniel Webber fre- quented Jackson. Board was then 8 2a week, the landlady doing the cooking, and the landlord serving the frugal meats. The visitor now finds, besides a dozen other boarding-houses, the richly-colored and many-gabled Wentworth Hall, Arden Cottage, and Thorn-Mountain House, the former reproducing the picturesque beauty of an old English mansion of Queen Anne's time, and advantageously placed alongside the dashing little river. This hotel lias running water, good drainage, telephone, telegraph, electric bells, steam heat, livery-stable, tennis-court, croquet lawn, dance-room, open fireplaces in all public rooms, 650 ft. of piazzas, magnificent dining- hall, tables supplied from hotel-farm. A few minutes' walk up the hilly mad, past Merrill's studio and the old mill, and paths lead to the r. out on the 1 dges by the many-colored, sparkling fails, with their pleasant pools and strange formations of rock. Farther up is the great glen opening away toward Carter Notch, with its lonely and peaceful farm boarding- houses. 1 M. from Jackson is Gale's Eagle-Mountain House (65 guests; $7-10.50 a week), with an impressive panoramic prospect of the Carter Mountains. 1 M. S. E. of the village, on the Thorn-Hill road, is G. W. Gray's Thorn -Hill Cottage (20 guests; S 6- 8 a week), famous for its grand view. The Tron-3Tnuntain House (Meserve Bros.), opened in 1885, is on high ground, overlooking the Kllis Kiver and Mt. Washington. It accom- modates 75 guests. There are open fire-places in all the public rooms. It is 3 M. from Glen Station, ^ M. from Jackson Falls. 2j M. from Thorn Mt., and 1 M. from Goodrich Falls. Jackson has a Free Library of over 1,500 volumes. 100 Route 21. THORN MOUNTAIN. Nearly 2 M. beyond Miles Brook (on the Glen Road) is the old Cook Farm, just before reaching which the tourist obtains a noble and com- prehensive view of Mt. Washington. The Goodrich Falls are 1J M. below Jackson. The great ledges are still in position, and are worthy of notice, that on the S. being 80 ft. high. In seasons of high water the falls still present a fine appearance, being among the heaviest in the mountains. The best view of the rocks and the deep basin below is obtained by descending the steep bank on the N. side, and passing around the shore. One of the noblest prospects of the White Mts. is enjoyed from the road between the falls and Jackson. 21. Thorn Mountain. Thorn Mt. is S. E. of Jackson, in the town of Bartlett, and is a high and forest-lined rocky knoll rising at the S. end of the ridge on which the lower eminence of Tin Mt. is founded. There are but few mountains in this region where the labor of ascent is so slight and the view thus gained is so beautiful. The road to the N. E. is taken at the village, and its first r. branching road leads to the farm-house (2£ M. from Jackson), whence a path about £ M. long conducts to the summit. This road commands a series of very noble views, including the Washington and Carter ranges and the great peaks in Pemigewasset and towards Waterville. Not more than a mile from the village, within reach of an easy after-supper ramble, is one of the best view-points on the S. side of the mountains. The path leads up from the end of the fields back of the farm-house, and, although its outlet is not wel'-marked, it should be found, in order to save a per- plexing struggle with the thickets. * The Yieio. — The S. W. peaks of the Presidential Range are seen over the long dark crest-line of the Montalban Ridge, beginning with Mt. Web- ster, which falls off to the 1. on the r. of and beyond Giant's Stairs. Next to the r. is the sharp little peak of Jackson, and the bubble-like crest of Pleasnnt is seen over Jackson village, and up the valley of Miles Brook. The ridge sweeps up to the r., by Franklin, to the bulgng crags of Mon- roe. In the foreground is the pretty alpine hamlet of Jackson, with its large boarding-houses, near the edge of verdant meadows; and more to the r. are the long, low ridges of the Eagle Mts., dotted with the lighter green of pastures. Above and beyond the latter are the narrow banded slides that stripe the head of a deep ravine which falls from the frowning and craggy Boott's Spur above. Farther to the r are the thin, straight lips of Tuckerman's Ravine, over which towers the crest of Mt. Washing- ton. Still farther to the r., the white gleam of Raymond's Cataract is seen, flashing down the high slopes of Washington at a sharp angle, with the tremendous cliffs of Huntington's Ravine on the r. Through the Pink- THORN MOUNTAIN. Route 21. 101 ham Notch is seen the sharply cut pyramid of Adams, falling to the r. on the Wild- Cat range, which looks across the profound chasm of the Carter Notch upon the Carter Dome. Extending towards Wild-Cat is the long, low, and many-headed ridge of Black Mt. A part of Mt. Madison is over Wild-Cat. Double-Head is next seen, about 3 M. distant, N. by E., its nearer sum- mit being a narrow level plateau, the farther one more pointed. Over the 1. of this dual eminence is the high and monotonous ridge of Mt. Moriah, toward the Androscoggin Valley; and more to the r. are the sum- mits of Slope, Sable, and Eastman. Nearer and more conspicuous is the lofty pyramid of Kiarsarge; whence Mt. Bartlett runs out to the r. and the double peak of Mt. Gemini extends to the N. N. E., hiding the mountains of Maine. On the S. is a broad and beautiful section of the Saco Valley, extending as far as Gline Mt. in Eaton and the Green Mt. in Effingham, with verdant meadows traversed by the blue and yellow band of the river and flanked by white hamlets. On the 1., and below Kiarsarge, are the broken ridges of the Green Hills of Conway; and on the r. is Moat Mt., with its long and ledgy ridges and low white peaks. Toward the S. W. the foreground is occupied by a part of the Lower- Bartlett glen, whose dark woods and light-green intervales make a pretty mosaic, across which the P. & 0. Railroad stretches. The range S. of the Saco runs W. from Moat, and includes the long, black, and rolling plateau of Bear Mt., next to which is the graceful cone of Haystack, and on the r. is the dark and hummocky ridge of Tremont, with burnt ground on top. Over the S. E. end of Bear Mt. is the high rounded crest of Passaconaway, hiding Whiteface; and the saw-like ridge of Tripyramid is over the r. flank of Bear Mt. On the 1. of Tremont, at the end of the Sawyer's-River valley, are the upper lines of Osceola. The view-line now falls on the range between the Saco and the Roeky Branch, with Mts. Stanton and Pickering in the foreground, surrounded with ledges, and Langdon beyond, ascending to a graceful lowly crest. Through the notch between Langdon and Iron Mt. appears the mighty peak of Carrigain, whence step-like terraces fall away to the S., while over its 1. flank parts of Hancock are seen. The high point of Mt. Parker is next seen, with the gently curving plateau of Resolution on its r., and with the tree-dotted ledges of Iron Mt. below, and not more than 4 M. dis- tant, across the Ellis Valley. Over Parker is Mt. Lowell, upon which the r. flank of Carrigain falls, and on whose r. are Mts. Anderson and Nancy. On the r. of Resolution are the two sharply-cut upper steps of the Giant's Stairs, from which the ponderous Montalban Ridge runs to the r. up to Mt. Washington. Over the r. falling flank of Giant's Stairs appears the crest of Mt. Willey, cut off sharply on the 1. and adjoined on the r. by Mt. Field. 102 Route n. DOUBLE-HEAD. Tin Mt. is one of the X. crests of the Thorn Mt. ridge, and is sometimes visited by tourists of a geological turn, being easily accessible from the village. It is about If M. al ng the ridge from Tin to Thorn. The first discovery of tin in the United States was made at Jackson, where it oc- curs on Tin Mt It is in fine small veins traversing mica slate and granite rocks, and accompanied by fiuor spar and arsenical ore. The town also contains magnetic iron ore, phosphate of iron, tungstate of manganese and iron, fluor spar, mispickel, copper, and pyrites. 22. Double-Head. Double Head is a picturesque mountain in the E. part of Jackson, con- sisting of two flat-topped peaks, whereof that to the N. is 100 ft. the high- er, and that to the S. is divided into three minor crests. It has been con- sidered topographically as a spur of the Carter Range. According to Dr. Jackson's measurements (of doubtful accuracy), the height of the mountain is 3,120 ft. The name " Double-Head " is found on maps of the last century. The peculiar architecture of and the fine views from this mountain render it an interesting point of ascent. Ladies have visited the summit, but only after most fatiguing work. The N. peak commands the best general view and prospect of the Presidential Range; the S. peak looks out over the fair Saco Valley. The best route for attacking Double-Head is to pass out from Jackson to J. H. Dearborn's, 2£-3 M. distant on the Dundee Road, and at the foot of the mountain. The road thither reveals some fine panoramic views over the Presidential Range, and toward the S. W. The distance from Dearborn's to the summit is about 1£ M., and there is a vague and easily lost path, passing along the course of a small brook. No serious difficulties are experienced on the ascent. The objective point is the saddle between the two peaks, whence either may be ascended, or each in succession. * The View. — The entire ridge of Moat Mt, is seen in the S. W., 8-10 M. distant, its three peaks being well marked and distinct, with the white spire of Chocorua just to the 1. of the N. peak, and a dim blue segment of the Ossipee Range on the 1. of the middle peak. Thorn Mt. is between Double-Head and Moat, with Tin Mt. on its N. ridge. To the r. of Moat Mt. and apparently continuous with it are the Table and Bear Mts., S. of the Bartlett valley; over which appear the low crest of Paugus, the ridgy mass of Whiteface, and the rounded swell of Passaconaway, — the latter being nearly S. W. Much nearer, across the Ellis and Rocky- Branch valleys, are the craggy steeps of Mts. Stanton and Pickering, with Tripyramid cutting the sky over them with its line of serrated summits. To the r. of all these, and below, is the graceful cone of Tremont, with Haystack adjoining and nearly equidistant. The view now rests on the multiplied ledges of Iron Mt., broad-based and massive, about 5 M. dis- tant across the Ellis valley. Over its 1. flank is Mt. Langdon, with Os- ceola far beyond, and over the r. is the vast pile of Mt. Carrignin, reaching far into the sky. Close to the latter is the pointed top of Mt. Lowell, with a section of Mt. Hancock through the gap on the 1 , and Mts. Anderson DOUBLE-HEAD. Route 22. 103 and Nancy on the r. The second ridge below Carrigain culminates in Mt. Parker, and rises on the r. to the high plateau of Mt. Resolution, on the r. of Nancy, with the peak of Crawford peeping over its 1. shoulder. Far away in this direction is the lofty plateau of Moosilauke. The well-de- fined upper terraces of Giant's Stairs are just to the r. of Resolution, and over them is a remote Mt. Flume toward the W., while Mt. Bond rises to the r. far in the Pemigewasset Forest. On the r. of the latter is the serrrated summit of Lafayette, cutting the sky-line; and on its r., contin- uous with Bond, are the ponderous heights of the S. and N. Twin Mts. The long and un diversified rising slope of the Montalban Ridge stretches to the r. from Giant's Stairs, thickly clad with woods, and reaching the upper swell of Mt. Washington. Over this, and to the r. of the Twins, is the alpine peak of Mt. Willey, descending sharply on the S., and marked by slides and broad bare ledges. Then, in the same ridge, appear the crests of Mts. Field and Tom, under which are Mts. Webster and Jack- son. Farther to the r. appear the well-marked peaks of Clinton, Pleasant, Franklin, and Monroe, sweeping to the X. N. E. to the base of the cone of Mt. Washington. About N. W. is the stately peak of Mt. Washington, 10 - 12 M. distant, yet so favorably situated with relation to Double-Head that nearly all the great eastern ravines are visible. The apparent peak which breaks up before the 1. flank of the mountain is Boott's Spur, in which is the broad chasm of the Gulf of the Slides, whose walls are striped with light-colored bands. To the r. are the steep inner slopes of the N. wall of Tuckerman's Ravine, curving around at the head towards Bigelow's Lawn. The shal- low oval depression next adjoining contains the falling waters of Ray- mond's Cataract, and is separated by a narrow ridge from the dark depths, surrounded by majestic cliffs, of Huntington's Ravine. To the r. of Mt. Washington is the peak of Mt. Adams, and over the r. slope of Wild-Cat, which rises on the E. of the Pinkham Notch, is the rounded summit of Mt. Madison. The deep cleft of the Carter Notch is on the r. of Mt. Wild- Cat, and is walled on the W. by the lofty and imposing Carter Dome. Far- ther to the r. are the embattled ridges of Carter and Moriah, stretching their firm lines across the sky. Nearly N. up the East-Branch valley are the wilderness-peaks of the Wild-River Forest, — Mt. Sable, with its un- marked crest ; Baldface, whose upper slopes are white and brilliant ; Royce, a double-knolled mountain on the Maine border; and Eastman, nearer and round-topped. To the 1. of the N. peak of Baldface and far away is Goose-Eye, or some other of the mountains near the Grafton Notch, and another cluster of Maine peaks is seen between Baldface and Royce, in- cluding those in Newry and Andover. N. of E., about 3 M. distant, is the secluded basin of Mountain Pond, with Mt. Slope about l£ M. beyond. To the r., and more distant, is the long sheet of Upper Kezar Pond, with the highlands of Waterford and Albany beyond. Farther to the S., and 104 Route 23. IRON MOUNTAIN. in a line over each other, are the Kezar and Upper Moose Ponds, and High- land Lake, with the long and hotel-surmounted sierra of Mt. Pleasant far- ther to the r. Nearer is the heavy ridge which runs W. from Kiarsarge, upon which are the graceful and similar peaks of Mt. Gemini. To the S. E., over the dark mound of Mt. Tom, in the plains of Fryeburg, is the distant glimmer of Sebago Lake. Since Double-Head is visible from Portland, in this direction, conversely, Portland should be seen from Double-Head, on a clear day and with a strong glass, — and beyond Port- land is the sea. Farther to the r., over Lovewell's Pond, are the two peaks of Saddleback Mt , in Baldwin. The view in this direction is now limited by the high pyramid of Mt. Kiarsarge. In the view from the N. peak, the S. peak of Double-Head, with its triple head, comes in on the r. of Kiarsarge and intercepts the view of the Saco Valley, though Walker's Pond, Ossipee Lake, and the Green Mt. in Effingham are seen over this ridge. The view from the S. peak, other- wise inferior to that from the N. peak, surpasses it in the beautiful pros- pect over the Saco Valley and the Moat Range: and this alone is sufficient to repay for the labor of climbing up its easy slope. 23. Iron Mountain. Iron Mt. is in the towns of Jackson and Bartlett, between the Rocky Branch and the Ellis River. It is a massive, low, and broad-based emi- nence, with extensive ledges on its sides, and is famous for its vast depos- its of iron ore. The position of the mountain with reference to the Presidential Range makes it an interesting view-point. Blueberries and raspberries are plentiful along the upper slopes. The true peak is near the S. end of the crest-line, and is covered with low bushes. Until the opening of the mines this mountain was called Baldface. There is a rough road which crosses from Jackson to Jericho, in the Rocky-Branch valley, and passes within 1 M. of the top but it is very hard for horses on account of its steep grade. This road runs W. from Jackson, crosses the Ellis at the first bridge, then turns sharply to the r., and soon encounters the ascent. The main path enters the woods near a barn on the crest of the ridge, but is hard to find, so it is as easy to go on to the red farm-house on the 1. and clamber thence about $ M. over the ledges and through the bushes. It is nearly \ M from Jackson to the divergence of the Iron-Mt. road, beyond the bridge ; and 2 M. from that point to the red house. During the latter portion of the route, the road ascends 1,150 ft. The best route from Lower Bartlett would be to go up by the old road to the iron- mines, and thence clamber to the crest. There is a cart-road from the ore-house to Jericho, in the Itocky-Braneh glen. The Geological Survey states the height of Iron Mt. as 2,000 ft. (by estimate), but the barometric measurements of our Guide-Book survey made it about 800 ft. higher. Above this valley, some 1,404 ft., and 1 M. from the Rocky Branch are the rich deposits of iron ore which have been and are to be worked. One of the veins meas- ures 37 ft from N. to S., and 16 ft. from E to W., and farther down the slope are other shafts and adits, reaching the ore-veins. It is probable that the entire moun- tain is intersected with these veins, containing inexhaustible quantities of iron which makes the finest quality of steel. IRON MOUNTAIN. Route 23. 105 *T7ie View. — A little W. of N, over the great wilderness between the Rocky Branch and the Ellis River, the high crags of Boott's Spur are seen, with the Gulf of the Slides. Over these is the crest of Mt. Washing- ton, with massive outworks on the E., above which, and through the Pinkham Notch, Mt. Madison is visible, with a rounded summit and a long slope to the r. Then comes the double peak of Mt. Wild-Cat, on whose r. is the Carter Dome, with a line of lofty cliffs fronting in on the Carter Notch. The Eagle Mts. extend their low and partially cleared flanks to the N. from Jackson. About N. W. is the lower end of Black Mt., inconspicuous in the valley; and farther to the r. are Mts. Sable and Eastman, the white caps of Baldface, and Mt. Slope. Over the vdlage of Jackson are the peaks of Double-Head, with Tin Mt. nearly in line and nearer, and Thorn Mt. on the fame ridge to the r., while farther back, on the sky line, are the twin peaks of Mt. Gemini. The cone of Kiarsarge is next seen, 6 M. distant, with the subor- dinate Mt. Bartlett on the r., a bold ripple on the descending flank. Then come the Green Hills of Conway, falling away^to the S. in graceful undu- lations, beyond the plain of Lower Bartlett. N. Conway is in the S. E., and the lovely valley of the Saco stretches away beyond the borders of Maine, past Conway Corner and Walker's Pond, and enclosed on the r. by the highlands of Eaton, Brownfield, and Cornish, on the 1. by the Denmark and Baldwin hills. To the S., close at hand across the Rocky-Branch glen, is Mt. Stanton, over which is the N. peak of Moat Mt., whose S. peak is seen more to the 1. Farther W., and on a line with Moat, is Table Mt., over which is the superb peak of Chocorua. The long and massive Bear Mt. adjoins Table, on the W., and its r. flank is overlooked by the dome of Passaconaway, with Whiteface on its r. flank. Near the base of Passaconaway is the round white crest of Potash; and Mt. Pickering is in the nearer fore- ground. Mt. Langdon is 2-3 M. distant, across the Rocky Branch, be- yond which are the crests of Tremont and Haystack; and farther to the S. W. is the sierra of Tripyramid. Still more distant is the entire ridge of Osceola, with a segment of Tecumseh on its flank, and Kancamagus Under it. Tiie stately peaks of Carrigain next appear, over the long and sloping pyramid of Parker; and over their 1. flank peers the round head of Hancock. Lowell lies against Carrigain, and on its r. are Anderson and Nancy. Then there appears the remote cluster of the Franconia Mts., on whose r. Mt. Resolution runs up to the immense steps of the Giant's Stairs, which are seen in their best estate from this point. Far- ther N., over the wooded Montalban Ridge, appear the crests of Webster and Jackson, with the flat top of Clinton, and, farther still, up the length of the Rocky-Branch glen, is the round curve of Mt. Pleasant. Then comes the almost indistinguishable plateau of Franklin, flanked by the beetling rocks of Monroe. 106 Route 24. GLEN HOUSE. 24. The Glen. The Glen House, built in 1885-87 on the site of its famous predecessor (built in 1851, and burned in 1884), is an imposing structure of great size, in modern architecture, and painted in quiet tones that harmonize well with the surrounding greenery. The great hall is the common ren- dezvous of the guests, with its vast and cavernous fireplace ; and broad piazzas run around the hotel on the ou^ide, giving magnificent views of the Presidential Range. Capt. E. A. Gillett (late of the Grand Hotel, in the Catskill Mountains) in 1887 bought a third interest in the Glen House and stables and its thousand acres of land, and devotes his time to the hotel. Stages run to Gorham to connect with all trains on the Grand Trunk Railway (time IV hrs. ; fare, §1.50). There are two stages daily each way between the Glen House and Glen Station (time 3 hrs : fare, #2.50) Stages leave for the summit of Mt. Washington at 8 a m. and 2\ p m , connecting with the Mt. W. Railway, the return stages connecting with the lines to Gorham and N Conway. The fare up and down (including tolls) is #5 : the fare down is *3- It is claimed that the system of stages and horses connected with the Glen House is the best in the Atlantic Stages, both in equipments and drivers. Distances (from the hotel-card) — Glen House to the Garnet Pool, 1 M ; the Imp. 2 M. : Gorham, 8 M. : the Emerald Pool, 1 M. : Thompson's Falls. 2 M. ; the Crystal Cascade. 3.V M : Tuekerman's Ravine. 5 M. : the Glen-Ellis Falls, 4 M ; the summit of Mt" Washington, S M. ; Jackson, 12 M. ; Glen Station, 15j M.; N. Conway, 20 M. ; Jefferson Hill, 19 M. ; Lancaster, 27 M. The Glen House is built on a terrace above the Peabody River, on the lower slopes of the Carter Range, and looks out directly on the five high- est mountains in New England, which are but 3-4 M. distant, and are not masked by any intervening objects. They form a crescent-shaped line, with the concavity towards the Glen, their order from r. to 1. being indicated by the formula maj. Clay Washington. Mt. Madison (5,365 ft.) is on the r., 1. of which is the sharp and symmetrica! pyramid of Mt. Adams (5,794 ft.), then the massive crest of Jefferson (5,714 ft.), the low humps of Clay (5,553 ft.), and the hotel-crowned peak of Washington (6,293 ft.) is on the 1., peering over lofty spurs and secondary peaks. The high crags of the Lion's Head are seen on the 1., near the opening of Tuckerman's Ravine. The deep gorge of the Great Gulf opens into the range towards Mts. Adams and Jefferson, containing the dense forests of the W. Branch. This noble view is presented from the piazzas and front rooms of the hotel. On the E. is the high and massive Carter Range, which is rarely visited, on account of its tangled thickets; and more to the S. are the slopes of Carter Dome and Wild-Cat. Below the hotel, on the W., is the pleasant valley of the Peabody River; and above, on the W., is a far-viewing clearing, in one corner of which is a reservoir. The Glen House is 1,632 ft. above the sea, 820 ft. above Gorham, and 1,111 ft. above N. Conway. The dry, pure, and fragrant air of this locality affords relief and exemption from the annoyances of rose-cold or hay- fever, many of whose victims escape its attacks by sojourning here. GLEN HOUSE. Route 24. 107 There is good trout-fishing in this vicinity, especially on Nineteen-Mile Brook and the W. Branch of the Peabody. The forest-scenery in these glens is wild and luxuriant, the Pinkham Woods sweeping down on the S-, and the Carter Range being draped with long reaches of heavy forests. In early June large patches of snow are visible from the piazza, striping the sides of the mountains and embanked in their ravines. In October the forests assume their gorgeous autumnal coloring, and form a most brilliant scene, often contrasted richly with the early snows on the highei peaks. The varying and weird effects of clouds and mist along the moun- tains, alternately closing and breaking away, afford one of the most re- markable spectacles from the Glen House. The long .front of the hotel presents a bright appearance as seen against the dark background of the adjacent forests. " The Glen House is at the very base of the monarch ; and Adams, Jefferson, Clay, and Madison bend around towards the E., with no lower hills to obstruct the im- pression of their height, — so that from the piazza and front chamber windows of the hotel, the forest clothing of the five highest mountains of New England is dis- tinctly seen, with all the clefts and chasms and the channelling of the rains, up to the bare ridge from which the desolate cones or splintered peaks ascend The best time for the effects of light on the peaks is early in the morning, when the rocky portions of the riJge are often burnished with surpassing beaut} - , or from four to six in the afternoon of midsummer, when the lights and shadows are most power- fully contrasted " Mt. Adams looks the highest, at all times, from the Glen House; and, in fact, although it is nearly 500 ft. lower than Mt. H'ashiugton, a greater elevation, on one steady slope, is seen in looking at it than Mt. Washington reveals. The summit of Mt. Washington lies back of the shoulder seen from the Glen, so that the effect of a thousand feet of height is really lost. And yet, after the first surprise has passed, there is no comparison between the two mountains for grandeur, as they tower above the hotel Washington is more massive. The lines that run off to the S. E. from the summit, and especially those that sweep around the Great Gulf and Tucker- man's Ravine, are far more grand and fascinating, to the eye of an arti;t, than the symmetry of the slim pyramid of Adams. One can never tire of looking at their sharp, curving edges, into whose steely hardness the torrents and rock-slides have torn deep dikes, that in the afternoon are delicate engravings of graceful shadow. And seen through a southerly air, or a light shower, that shows, much more plainly than clear air does, the number and the graceful flow as well as vigor of these lines, we learn that the great privilege of the Glen is the opportunity it gives for studying from below the granite braces of the cone of Mt. Washington.'' (Starr King ) Prof. Yose has advanced the theory that " the main chain of the White Mts. was formed by a fragment of the western slope of an immense anticlinal wave, of which the crest would have been over the Peabody Valley, and of which perhaps a fragment of the eastern slope may be found in the opposite and parallel range of the Carer Mts. ; in which case the Peabody Valley would be a valley of denudation."' Amer. Assoc. Advance. Sci., Proc. XVI. There is a legend to the effect that a Mr. Peabody, of Andover, Mass., was present at the birth of the river which has for many years borne his name. He was passing the night in an Indian cabin near the height-of-land, when his entertainers were aroused by aloud roaring, and they had barely escaped from the hut when an im- petuous torrent sprang out of the hillside and swept it away. This incident is re- corded in White's History of Neiv England. In 1784 the old Shelburne road was followed down this valley by Dr. Belknap's party, "one going before with an axe " to clear away the fallen trees. With their utmost exertions they made but 1, M. an hour. 108 Route 24. GLEN-ELLIS FALLS. The Garnet Pools are less than 1 M. N. of the Glen House, and are reached by a path running to the 1. from the Gorham road, at the foot of a low hill. They are a series of basins in the bed of the Peabody River, carved out and polished by the action of the water and the rolling stones on the ledges. The Imp is "a grotesque colossal sphinx" which appears on one of the peaks of the Carter Range, the profile being formed by the upper crags of Mt. Imp, and having a weird resemblance to a distorted human face. This appearance is best observed at late afternoon, and from Copp's farm, 1^-2 M. N. of the Glen House, on the old road to Randolph, W. of the Peabody River. Thompson's Falls are about 2 M. from the Glen House, and are reached by taking the N. Conway road to the S. and diverging for i M. to the 1., at the guide-board. They are on a small tributary of the Peabody River, and form a chain of cascades \ M. long, sweeping down through pretty forest scenery, and furnishing rich ground for pleasant rambles. The * view of Mt. Washington and its E. ravines, from the head of the main fall, is one of the best in the mountains, and has been reproduced in Picturesque America. " It is a wild forest scene, and the flow of the glis- tening cascade under the wide expanse of leaf and bough is exquisitely musical and charming in the solitude of the wilderness." The Emerald Pool is a quiet basin in the Peabody River, where the water rests for a brief space in its rapid downward career. It is just N. of Thompson's Falls, and on the other side of the road. It is a favorite resort for artists and lovers of nature, on account of its quiet beaut}- and sylvan richness. The * Glen-Ellis Falls are about 4 M. S. of the Glen House, near the N.-Conway road, and are approached by a plank walk ^M. long, diverg- ing to the 1. from the road at a guide-board. They are on the Ellis River, and at the base of Mt. Wild-Cat, whose formidable ridges tower above to a great height. They were formerly known as the Pitcher Falls, in allusion to their shape, but received the present and less significant name (Glen Ellis, or Elise) from a Portland party, in 1S52. The stream slides down about 20 ft. over inclined ledges, and then springs downward for 70 ft. through a deep groove which it has worn in the rocky cliff, being twisted to the 1. by a bulge in the ledges, and making almost a complete turn. After viewing the fall from the edge of the rocks above, the visitor should descend the long stairways on the r. to the spray-moistened ledges below, where he can form a better idea of the power of the fall by looking up along its line, across the deep green pool into which it heavily plunges. A variety of rich views may be obtained from points near the bottom of the ravine; and beautiful combinations of the white column of water, with the bearded woods on either side, are gajned thence. This fall is probably the finest in the White Mts. CRYSTAL CASCADE. Route 24. 100 " If we wished to take a person into a scene that would seem to be the very heart of mountain wildness, without wishing to make him climb into any of the ravines, we should invite him to visit this fall of the Ellis River. The best view of the fall is obtained by leaning against a tree that overhangs a sheer precipice, and looking down upon the slide and foam of the narrow and concentrated cataract to where ic splashes into the dark green pool, 100 ft below. And then as we look off from this point above the fall, we see the steep side of Mt Wild-Cat crowded to the ridge witu the forest. It is not the sense of age, but of grim, almost fierce wildness, that is breathed from the scenery, amid which this cataract takes a leap of 80 ft. to carry its contribution to the Saco." About i M. N. of the Glen-Ellis Fall, on the W. side of the road, is a lofty cliff over which falls a small rivulet, making a long, white, vertical plunge which is a very beautiful object in seasons of full water. It is near the road, and the silvery gleam of the fall is visible through and above the trees. It is said that this cas- cade is on the tiny stream which occupies the old bed of the New River, whose new course is crossed a few rods farther N., nearer the Crystal River (see Route 71). The Crystal Cascade is on the Crystal, Cutler's, or Ellis River, below the outlet of Tuckerman's Ravine, and on the W. side of the Pittkham Notch. It is reached by following the N.-Conway road for about 3 M. from the Glen House, and diverging to the r. at a guide-board, whence a good path leads in about § M. to the cascade. The best view-point is on the opposite side, on a little cliff which fronts the water. The vista in- cludes about 80 ft. of fall, over successive step-like terraces of slaty rocks, crossed by igneous dikes. In high water it affords a br lliant sight, but at other seasons the stream dwindles away (see page 194). " Visitors should not forget that the proper point from which to see it is not the foot of the fall itself, but the top of the little cliff directly opposite. No contrast more striking can be found among the moun;ains than that of age and youth, which is furuis.ied from that point. Toe cliff is richly carpeted with mosses that have been nourished and thickened by centuries The rocks of the neighboring precipices look old. They are cracked and seamed as though the forces of decay had wound their coils fairly around them, and were crumbling them at leisure. The lichens upon them looked bleached and feeble. Those protruding portions of its anatomy indicate that Mt. Washington has passed the meridian of his years. But the waterfall gives the impression of graceful and perpetual youth. Down it comes, leaping, sliding, tripping, widening its pure tide, and then gathering its thin sheet to gush through a narrowing pass in the rocks, — all the way thus, from un- der the sheer walls of Tuckerman's Ravine, some miles above, till it reaches the curve opposite the point where we stand, and, winding around it, sweeps down the bending st dr.vay, shattering its substance iuto exqui-ite crystal, but sending off enough svater to the right side of its path to slip and trickle over the lovely, dark green mosses that cling to the gray and purple rocks." (Starr King ) The road from the Glen House to Jefferson Hill diverges to the I. from the Gotham road near the old saw-mill, about 1^ M. from the hotel, crosses the Peabody River and its W. Branch, and passes the Copp farm, whence the Imp is seen. It then ascends through the forest to the height- of-lanl in the notch between Mt. Madison and the Pine Mt. of Gorham, the mountains being hidden, for the most part, by the large trees on either side. From the height-of-land it descends rapidly to the Moose River, after crossing which it enters the road from Gorham to Jefferson Hill, near Randolph Hill (see Route 70). 109 a Route 24. TUCKERMAN'S RAVINE. The North-Conway road was measured by odometer, in 1886. Glen House to Hayes house, 8.6 M.; to Rogers house, 9.8 M. ; to Mesarve's, 11.25 M.; to Glen-Ellis House, 12.35 M.; to Iron-Mt. House, 12.85 M.; to Goodrich Falls, 13.87 M.; to Glen and Conway Fork, 15.13 M.; to East-Branch House, 16.99 M.; to Pequawket House, 17.79 M.; to Inter- vale House, 19.07 M. The sojourner in this secluded glen should take care to hear the plain- tive notes of the. peabody-bird, especially towards evening twilight, when his weird cry resounds through the quiet forests. These strange birds a.e very rare in other places, and their mournful melodies sound through several of the quaint and pathetic legends of the northern hills. Mr. B. F. Osgood, the veteran guide at the Glen House, thus describes his creation, the path up Mt. Madison (made in 1878): — *' Starting from the Glen House across the field, and thence through the woods to the West Branch, it follows up the S. shore about £ M., and then crosses the stream, from whence it is almost a straight line up the S.E. slope of Mt. Madison, coming out on the rocks at the E. end of the Madison ridge. There is no particular interest about the path, any further than as a convenience for parties wishing to make the trip over all of the summits to Mt. Washington." The path is well-constructed and adequately marked, and has a length of about 4£ M. The path is entered near two boulders, seen from the Glen House, in line with Mt. Adams. The ascent of Madison takes 3 his. ; the descent, 1\ hrs. It takes 1\ hrs. to the tree line; and nearly 1 hr. thence to the summit. It is safe to allow 6 hrs. for the walk hence to the top of Mt. Washington. Take a guide. This path is now thoroughly obscured in places by fallen timber. Osgood's Cascades are about 1^ M. from the Glen House, by ascending the mountain road for a little over 1 M., and diverging to the 1. on the new path. The main fall is 20 ft. high, over reddish-gray cliffs ; and the water is of a rich and sombre brown, changing to warmer tints, and due, perhaps, to the presence of iron. The cascades bear the name of the famous Glen-House guide, who made the path which leads to them. Tuckerman's Ravine (see also pages 194-7). Two ancient and well- nigh obliterated paths have lately been cleared out and made easy for travellers. The first is the route by Crystal Cascade, ascending by the brook, and reaching the summit of Mt. Washington in 7^ M. This distance may be traversed in 5-7 hrs. The second (and easiest) route is that which diverges from the road up Mt. Washington, about 2 M. from CARTER DOME. Routed 109 5 the Glen House, and follows the old Thompson bridle-path, into Hermit Lake. A new camp has been built near the lake, where several persons can get good shelter for the night. Carter Dome may now be ascended either from Jackson or the Glen House, from near the summit of the Carter Notch, under efficient guid- ance (Osgood, Lowe, or Davis). The route and view are described in Appalachian, vol. i. pp. 76 -S6. On the N. and W. of the peak is the great slide, nearly 1 M. long, where the mountain was stripped to its beddedges in the great storm of October, 1869. The peak itself is thus described : " From all points of the compass, save, perhaps from low levels in that quarter from which it is least likely to be viewed, this noble mountain appears as a Dome ; and one standing on the supreme arch of its curve sees the lines of descent gradually and eveidy fall away on every side, and feels the spring of its strong, broad vault under his feet." The path up Carter Dome ascends from the shore of the larger lakelet in Carter Notch, and is well-marked but very steep. sf M. up is an open view-point, not far from Pulpit Rock. The path is \\ M. long, and may be ascended in 1£ -2 hrs. (the descent has been made in 20 inin.). The summit is broad and flat, and covered with 12-ft. spruces, through which the Appalachians have cut vistas. W. H. Pickering says that this is one of the very best view-points for Mt. "Washington and its vast S. ravines. The Dome is 4,830 ft. high. To the N., across a flankable scrub- forest, is the second Carter peak, 4,702 ft. high, with a singular smooth conical peak, rising 25 ft. above the scrub, and giving a magnificent view up the Great Gulf, and of the finely grouped Presidential peaks. There are four more summits on the Carter Range, before reaching the seventh, lowest, and most northerly, the Imp, a very steep peak, with high rocky ledges. The entire range was recently traversed in two days by the Hoboken Appala- chians, and guides, from Gorham over Moriah, Imp, and the Carter crests to Carter Dome, and thence down into the Carter Notch. In 1883 Mr. E. B. Cook and C. E. Lowe cut a path through the scrub from Carter Dome to the grand-viewing second peak of Carter, 1^ M. distant. See also pages 99 a and 110. The most brilliant description of the Carter Notch, written by George N. Merrill, the Jackson-Falls artist, appeared in The White- Mountain Echo for Aug. 13, 1881. Thomas Wentworth Higgin son wrote a vivid account of the Carter Notch, for Putnam's Magazine, December, 1853. The path built to N. Carter Dome in 1883, was supplemented in 1885-86 by a line of path 8^ M. long, from the crest of Moriah, over Imp, and along the entire Carter Range, with two permanent camps. It is a mag- nificent mid-air promenade. In 1886 the Carter-Notch path had become well-nigh impassable by reason of fallen trees, at least on the Glen side. 110 Route 25. CARTER NOTCH. The road from the Glen House to Gorham descends the Peabody Valley all the way, and gives several good v'ews of the peaks on the W., though much of its course is through thick woods. The Imp and Moriah ridges are also seen on the r. For Tuckerman's Ravine, see Route 72; the Great Gulf, Route 74; the Mt.- Washington road, Route yl ; Mt. Washington, Route 93; Mts Jefferson, Adams, and Madison, Routes 86, 85, 84; the Carter Notch, Route 25; Mt. Wild-Cat, Route 26. 25. The Carter Notch. There are two routes to this natural curiosity, one from the Glen House and the other from Jackson. The former is the shorter and easier, and is 3£-4 M. long, leading up the valley of Nineteen-Mile Brook (19 M. from Conway line) between Mts. Carter and Carter Dome and Mt. Wild-Cat. The brook is back of the Glen House, and is followed for a considerable distance by the aqueduct, beyond which ensues a long and wearisome scramble up the bed of the brook and along the adjacent ridges. 1 M. an hour is the best time that can be made, and the ascent is quite arduous-. The height-of-land is about 3£ M. from the hotel and 1,750 ft. above it; and beyond this point the visitor descends quickly to the lakes, passes on the 1. of the first, by the camp, on the r. of the second lake, and up on the boulders below. The route from Jackson leads up the Wild-Cat Valley for 5 M., and then follows logging-roads and the course of a brook into the Notch, about 4 M. farther. The highest point in the Notch is 3,320 ft. above the sea, and the lakes are 3,150 ft. high. It lies between Carter Dome on the E and Mt. Wild- Cat on the W , and contains some grand rock-scecery. On the W. are fine cliffs, 300-400 ft. high, which give back strong echoes to a rifle-shot. On the E., high up on Carter Dome, is a singular cluster of projecting crags, forming ragged profiles against the sky. The lakes are in the central part of the chasm, that to the N. being 200 X 300 ft. in area and the other 150 X 75 ft. Their water is very clear, and abounds in fish. On the terrace between them, to the W., is a snug hunter's camp, where Bishop Jaggar and other gentlemen have sojourned. At the S. entrance of the Notch is a lofty line of immense boulders, piled on each other in inextricable con- fusion, and affording some of the most remarkable rock-scenery in the mountains. They are rugged and deeply pitted, like the rocks on the cone of Mt. Washington, and probably remained for ages on the crests of the ad- jacent peaks. One or two of these boulders are over 70 ft. long each. The best point from which to view the ravine is the top of the highest of these boulders, but the route thither is very difficult to find, leading sometimes under arches of huge rocks and sometimes through narrow gates between high walls. From this point the Notch opens on the N., with the cliffs MOUNT WILD-CAT. Route 26. Ill find crags of Mt. Wild-Cat and Carter Dome on the 1. and r. ; and on the S- is a portion of the valley towards Jackson, with its enwalling moun- tains. The confused piling together of these huge black boulders forms a weird and singular scene, and is the chief object of interest in the Notch (see also pages 99 a and 109 b). Mr. Jonathan G. Davis, living well up the Wild-Cat Valley, above Jackson , has constructed an Appalachian path from the S. into the Notch, and is a good guide for that region. It is a little over 3 M. long, from the road. It has been extended for 3 M. further, to the Glen-House aqueduct, and is now quite practicable from either side, making comparatively easy the access to " one of the wildest and weirdest spots to be found amoug the mountains*' (see page 93 a). A thorough reconnoissance of Carter Dome is described in Appalacliin, vol. i., part 2. 26. Mount Wild-Cat. • Mt. Wild-Cat is S. of the Glen House, between the Carter Notch and the Pinkham Notch, with spurs running S. into Jackson. It was named East Mt. on Belknap's map of 1791. in allusion to irs position with reference to the Pinkham Notch. There is a legend that two hunters named Hight and Carter were once passing through the notch E. of this mountain, when they separated and ascended the ridges on each side, whereof one was named Hight and the ocher Carter. It is uncertain which of the mountains, E. or W , assumed either of these names, but that on the W. of the Carter Notch has usually been called Mt. Hight. Prof. Guyot named it Mt. Wild-Cat, and la;terly the people who wished to retain the name of Hight, being unwilling to derange Guyot's nomenclature, have applied it to the S peak of Mt. Carter. The Appalachian Mountain Club has finally applied the name of the Carter Dome to the S. peak of Carter. The true Mt. Hight (Guyot's Wild-Cat) is 4,330 ft. high, and is covered with woods. A clearing has been made high up on the W. side, which commands perhaps the best view attainable of Mt. Washington and the great ravines on the E. It is reached by a good path from the Glen House, which passes close to the lower corner of the reservoir and enters the woods beyond. The ascent is easy, even for ladies; and requires less than an hour, the distance being about H- M. The trees along the path are profusely " spotted." * The View. — On the 1., over the Pinkham Woods, are the heights which hem in and hide the Xew-River Ravine, X. of which is the vast outer circle of Tuckerman's Ravine, with nearly all its S. wall strewn with slides, and a small portion of the heading cliffs. The ravine itself is seen opening into the heart of the mountain, its floor forming an apparent terrace above the hollow in which lies Hermit Lake. Above the S. wall are the imposing crags on Boott's Spur; and above the X. wall are the frown- ing rocks of the Lion's Head. On the r. of the latter is the sharp white fall of Raymond's Cataract, glistening down the cliff-side for hundreds of feet, beyond which are the lofty gray precipices of Huntington's Ravine, whose depth is partly hidden by an intervening ridge. Above these points is the high terrace of the Alpine Garden, with the Chandler Ridge still higher on the r., and the summit-hotel over all. On the r. flank of the mountain are seen various sections of the carriage-road, with the Half- way House; over which is the massive peak of Mt. Jefferson, beyond the Great Gulf. Then the splendid pyramid of Adams is seen, with long slides on its sides and craggy peaks on N. and S. Looking up the deep ravine between Adams and Madison, one views the low saddle in which Star Lake lies, on whose r. is Mt. Madison, a lofty and stately peak over the 112 Route 28. GORHAM. Glen House, flanked by the long and stony ridges which run down to Copp's and the height-of-land. On the r. of Madison, and beyond, is the Crescent Range, over which are the more distant forms of the Pilot Mts. and Green's Ledge, in Berlin. Due N., down the Peabody Glen, is the low and broad-based Pine Mfc, on whose r. is the ledgy mass of Mt. Forist, at Berlin Falls, with Mt. Hayes much nearer, on the r. Between Pine and Hayes the long Androscoggin Valley is seen, trending away to the N. through Berlin and Milan, with the high farms on Berlin Heights on the 1. of Berlin-Falls village. The view is then closed by Mt. Imp, close at hand down the Glen. 27. The Carter Range. Properly speaking, this chain of peaks extends from the Androscoggin Valley to the Carter Notch, including Mts. Moriah, Imp, Carter, and Dome. In a narrower sense it includes that portion of the ridge between the Imp and the Notch ; and the name of Mt. Carter is applied only to the peaks nearly behind the Glen House. This group has been but partially ex- plored, and the State Geologist says that "it is the least known of all the mountain districts. I do not find any explorer of it anxious to continue Irs investigations therein." It falls on the W. to the Peabody Glen; and more gradually on the E. to the Cold-River valley and the trackless for- est. The N. peak of Carter is 4,702 ft. high, and the S. peak is 4,830 ft. high. It is to the latter that the name of Carter Dome, has recently been given, in allusion to its remarkable convexity of outline, and to its situa- tion on the Carter Range. The peaks of Mt. Carter are very rarely visited, so great is the labor of the attack. From people who have been over the r dge the Editor learns that there is a large area of dwarf spruce on its upper parts, through which it is very difficult to pass. The summits of Carter are covered with forests. 28. Gorham. Hotels. — The Alpine House (Stratton & Edwards) is a spacious and comforta- ble hotel, well furnished and equipped. It has a large livery-stable, affording facil- ities for the drive to Mt Washington, or the charming excursions up and down the Androscoggin Valley. The Lary House is an ancient summer-house 1 M. N. of the village. Railway. —The Grand Trunk line (Route 6) runs to Portland (91 M.) in 4J--5 hrs. By taking the train to Grovetrm Junction (31 M. N. W.). a connection is made with the Boston & Lowell R R. Whife-Mts. Division) (see Routes 7 and 2), running to Lancaster and Littleton. Beyond Groveton the Grand Trunk line passes on to Montreal and Quebec (Route 7). Stages run to the Glen House frequently. Mountain-wagons are despatched frequently but irregularly (when parties are made up) to Mt. Washington and Jefferson Hill. GORHAM. Route 28. 113 Distances. — Gorham to the summit of Mt. Hayes (Route 29), 2 M.; of Mt. Sur- prise (Route 3U),2± M.; of Mt. Moriah (Route 31), 4i-5M.; to the Glen House (Route 24), 8 M.; Mt. Washington, It M.; Jefferson Hill (.Route 66), 17 M.; Lead- u.ine Bridge (Route 32), 3 M.; Lead-mine, 6±M.; Shelburne station (Route 32 ,6H.; Alpiue Cascades, 5 M.; ISerlin Falls (Route 34), 6 M ; Milan Corner (Route 36), 14 M.; Rindolph Hill, 5 M.; Mascot Mine, 1 M.; Grove Cottage, 3 M. ; Shelburne Basins, 3 31.; Mt. Crescent Ice-Gorge, 5 M.; Gorham Hill, 5 M.; Shelburne Silver Mine, 5 M.; White-Mt. ^tock Farm, 6 M.; Riviae House, o£ M.; Gilead Bridge, 11 M. ; Glen-Ellis Falls, 13 M. The town of Gorham contains 1,800 inhabitants, and covers 18,146 acres, of which over 16,000 are unimproved, lying on the slopes of rugged ridges. The village is an important station on the Grand Trunk Railway, and is the seat of the machine-shops for the Eastern Division of that line, employing 200 men and producing 8 300,000 worth of work annually. There are about 900 inhabitants in the village, with 3 churches and 29 stores. It is situated on the Androscoggin River (formerly called the Amariscoggin), a wide and rapid stream, near its junction with the Moose and Peabody Rivers. Gorham is the nearest village to the great peaks N. of Mt. Washington, and although they are hidden from the streets by the low-lying mass of Pine Mt., some of the best possible views are gained from points close by. Mts. Moriah, Carter, and Hayes, and the Pilot Mts. are visible from the vil- lage. In the earlier days of White-Mt. travel the noble scenery and adven- turous excursions in this viciivty made Gorham one of the favorite centres for tourists. The Rev. Thomas Starr King spent several seasons here, writing the greater part of his charming book, The Wltite Hills. The village is 812 ft. above the sea; and the dry and bracing air of the broad valley is invigorating and healthful. The close proximity of the great peaks of Madison, Jefferson, and Adams gives rare grandeur to the views from the environs; and this is said to be one of the proper focal points for the view of Mt. Washington. On the S. the Peabody Glen opens away into the highlands, flanked on the E. by the lofty crests of Mts. Moriah and Carter; and on the X. W. are the long serrated lines of the Pilot Mts., the scene of brilliant displays of color towards evening. The rugged hills N. of the Androscoggin River tower closely on the N. of the village, throwing out their rocky cliffs to the verge of the stream. "No point in the mountains offers views to be gained by walks of a mile or two that are more noble and memorable For river scenery, in connection with impressive mountain forms, the immediate vicinity of Gorham surpasses all the other districts from which the highest peaks are visible. The Androscoggin sweeps through the village with a broader bed, and in larger volume, than the Connecticut shows at Lancaster or Littleton. As a general thing, Gorham is the place to see the more rugged sculpturing and the Titanic brawn of the hills. Turning from N. Conway to the Androscoggin Valley is somewhat like turning from a volume of Tennyson to the pages of Carlyle; from the melodies of Don Giovanni to the surges of the Ninth Symphony ; from the art of Raffaelle to that of Michel Angelo." Stars King) Soldier's Hill is a small eminence in the village, on the r. of the street which runs to the suspension-bridge. It commands a beautiful view of H 114 Route 28. GORHAM. the valley, extending on r. and 1. for miles, and affords a good observatory from which to reconnoitre the adjacent mountains. The best view from Gorham is obtained from the vicinity of Lar} T, s, about 1 M. from the station, and the best time to enjoy it is at late after- noon, towards sunset. Its chief features are the noble prospects of Mts. Moriah, Madison, and Adams. Mt. Adams, as seen from a point on the road about 1^ M. above Gor- ham, is "the highest elevation which we can look at in New England from any point within a few miles of the base. Indeed, it is the highest point cf land overlooking a station near the base, that can be seen E. of the Mississippi." The peak of Adams (5,794 ft. high) is about 7 M. from the point before mentioned (S68 ft. high), above which it towers to the height of 4,926 ft., while Mt. Washington rises but 4,722 ft. above the Fabyan House, and 4,661 ft. above the Glen House. From the same vicinity is enjoyed the best view of Mt. Moriah, which rises 3,785 ft. above the valiey, or over 500 ft. higher than Mt. Lafayette stands over the Profile House. "With the exception perhaps of the Moat Mt in N. Conway, the long lines of its declivity, towards the E., flow more softly than any others we can recall. They wave from the summit to the valley in curves as fluent and graceful as the fluttering of a long pennant from a masthead. The whole mass of fhe mountain, moreover, is clothed with the richest foliage, unscarred by any land-slide, unbroken by any ravages of storm and frost, even in its ravires But nothing can be more graceful and seductive than the flow of these lines of Mt. Moriah seen through such a veil [of shower]. They do not suggest any violent internal forces. It would seem that they rose to melody, as when Amphion played his lyre, and saw the stones move by rhythmic masonry to the places where they were wanted. And the beauty is the more effective by contrast with the sternness and vigor of the lines of Adams and Madison." Randolph. Hill is a locality on the Jefferson-Hill road, from which one of the noblest views of the White Mts. is obtained. It is about 5 M. from Gorham by a well-constructed road which passes over the crest of the hill, 600 ft. above the village. Therefrom is afforded a grand * view of Mt. Madison (on the 1.) and Mt. Adams (r. ), with the tremendous gorge of King's Ravine opening into its heart (see pages 120 a and 192). " After the first mile the summits are in view all the way. As the sides of the mountains are more and more clearly seen, attention i; arrested by the correspondent lines that run N. W. from Adams, and S. E. from Madison. Ihey are alike in almost all their details. These earthquake rhymes arc more interesting for the intellect than the granite physiognomy in Franconia. And the lower outworks and braces of Mt. Madison repeat, in reduced form and reverse order, the shapes of the two great hiils. There is no drive more valuable than this for the close study of the multitudinous details that make up the foreground of a vast mountain, — the abut- ments, the water-lines, the ravine walls and edges, the twistings of rock bereath the soil, that give character to a view ten miles off, which almost every eye feels, but which only a critical one can explain And then the general aspect of these mountains during this drive. How proud and secure! What weight and what spirit ! They are not dead matter, — they live- So solid, yet soaiiug ! They seem to lift themselves to that glorious height. .... Here we sec the N. E. wall of the White-Mt. chain declining sharply to the vallej*. From llandolph Hill we look down to the lowest course of its masonry, and up to the two noblest spires of roek which the ridge contains. How lonely and desolate it looks, aloft there ! And yet those pinnacles, that are scarcely fanned by a breath of summer, and that feel such s'oms as the valleys never know and rould rot besr, — is it not wholesome to look at them and think what thev undergo for the good of -New England?" (Starr King.) MOUNT HAYES. Route 29. 115 Pine Mountain, or CameVs Hump, is the most northerly of the White Mts., and lies S. W. of Gorham, occupying the area which is bounded by the Moose, Androscoggin, and Peabody Rivers, and the Old Pinkham- Xotch road (which separates it from Mt. Madison). It is a low and broad- based mountain, on whose ridge are three distinct crests partially covered with woods. Hamilton Willis had the trees cut away from one of the lower peaks so that views might be obtained of Mts Madison and Adams. This point was called Willis s Cut, and was about f M. from Gorham, whence it was approached by a good path. A recent scientific visitor thus records his march to the middle peak of Pine Mt. : Glen Road (1 M. from Gorham) lo end of logging-road, 1 hr., 2.;, M. ; thence to first peak, 2 hrs., H M. ; thence to the second peak, 1 hr., a , 3 M. 29. Mount Hayes. The easiest, and in some respects the mo t profitable mountain-excur- sion to be made from Gorham is the ascent of this eminence, from which is obtained one of the grandest views of the White Mts. The mountain here approaches the river, and is faced with rocky ledges and cliffs. The summit is a little over 2 M. from the village, and the path is entered from the N. end of the suspension-bridge. For many years Mt. Hayes has been celebrated for " bears, blueberries, and views." The distance from the bridge to the site of the house on the ridge is nearly 1| M., and the summit is about i M. beyond. The path is easy and well denned, leading through a forest of second-growth birches; and has plenty of water in its vicinity. On account of its easy grade this moun- tain is much visited by tourists. The most favorable time is in the morn- ing, when the Presidential Range is lit up from the E., and the ravines show distinctly. The summit is a broad plateau, covered with outcropping ledges of granitic gneiss, and its highest part h overgrown with trees. The best view of the Androscoggin Valley is gained from the ledges near the house ; but the peaks to the W. are best seen from a high rock farther up on the plateau. The Guide-Book party was 80 min. in making the ascent. "Mt. Hayes is the chair set by the Creator at the proper distance and angle to appreciate and enjoy Mr. Washington"* kingly prominence. All the lower summits are hidden, and you have the great advantage of not looking along a chain, but of seeing the monarch himself soar alone, back of Madison and Adams and seemingly disconnected with them, standing just enough to the S. to allow an unobstructed view of the ridges that climb from the Pinkham road up over Tuckerman's Ravine, to a crest moulded and poised with indescribable stateliness and qrrace. It com- pletely dimmed the glory of Mt. Adams. The eye clung ever fascinated and still hungry upon those noble proportions and that haughty peace. We were just far enough removed to get the poetic impres.-ion of height which vagueness and airy tenderness of color give It was satisfactory, artistic, mountain-eminence and majesty that we were gazing upon." * The View. — Toward the S. is the great and massive ridge of Mt. Moriah, falling away on the r. towards the lower peak of Imp, which rises sharply over the Peabody Glen. Farther to the r. is the symmetrical and 11G Route 30. MOUNT HAYES. lofty cone of Mt. Carter, partly concealing Carter Dome and its formidable southern outworks; and adjoined by the lower and more distant Mt. Wild- Cat, which falls off on the 1. into the Carter Notch, and en the r. toward the Pinkham Notch. Over the foot of the Imp's long slope is the Glen-House clearing; and at the end of the valley the Rocky-Branch ridge trends up on the r. to the rugged crags on the end of Bootfs Spur. The S. wall of Tuckerman's Ravine is on the side of the Spur, and then the high crest of Washington is seen, with its white hotel. In the foreground, on this line of vision, is the low and heavily wooded Pine Mt. On the r. of Washington are the long and broken rocky ridges of Madison, ascending on the r. to the shattered peak, on whose r. are the fine crests of Adams, concealing Jefferson from view. Tne Moose-River Valley opens away on the N., by Randolph Hill, and at its end is tbe long blue Cherry Mt., with the Owl's-Head peak on the N. end. Thence to the r. extend the long and monotonous hill-ranges of Randolph, Crescent, and Pliny, culminat- ing in Mt. Starr King. Toward the N. W. are the higher and more pic- turesque Pilot Mountains, showing fine outlines and covering a great area, with the twin white mamelons of the Percy Peaks far away on the r., seen over a nearer wooded hi 1. On the 1. of the line to the Percies are the crags of Green's Ledge, falling off sharply to the S ; Deer Mt., with a knob in the centre; and the more distant heights of Sugar Loaf and Strat- ford Mt. More to the r., and nearly over Mt. Forist, is Long Mt., in Odell. The view to the N. and N. E. is closed by the woods on the summit of Hayes. When standing on the ledge near the old house, the visitor sees the Moose-River Valley on his r., the Peabody Glen in front, and the Androscoggin Valley on the 1. This scene is one of rare beauty. " The rich upland of Randolph, over which the ridges of Madison and Adams heave towards the S., first holds the ej e. Next the sin- gular curve in the blue Androscoggin around the Lary Farm, arching like a bow drawn taut. Directly beneath us lay two islands in the river, — one of a diamond shape, the other cut precisely like a huge kite, and fringed most charmingly with green. Down the valley, Shelburne, Gilead, W. Eethel, and Eethel were laid into the landscape with rich mosaics of grove, and grass, and ripening grain, reeding a brush dipped in molten opal to paint their wavering, tremulous beauty. Directly opposite, seemingly only an arrow-shot's distance, were the russet ravines of Moriah and the shadow cooled stairways of Carter. " (Starr King ) 30. Mount Surprise. This peak is on a lower ridge of Mt. Moriah, and is about 2\ M. from Gorham, whence it may be reached in about 2 hrs. The path was for- merly a good one, adapted for the ascent of saddle-horses ; but it has been neglected, and is now obscured in some places by tushes and wood-chop- pings. The entrance of the path may be found through the pastures near J. R. Hitchcock's, although it formerly passed in from the E. bank of the Peabody, near the highway-bridge. The services of a guide will be useful at least in getting the visitor fairly started in the woods. The route to MOUNT SURPRISE. Route 30. 117 Surprise is the lower half of the bridle-path to Mt. Moriah, and was for- merly a broad, plain, and well-travelled way. It would be well if the people of Gorham would have it once more opened and put in order, — a work which would involve but little outlay iu comparison to the benefits accruing. Mount Surp'ise is a ledgy knoll rising boldly from the long flank of Mo- riah, and commanding a very noble * view. On the S. S. E. is the main peak of Moriah, over a green wooded spur, with the Imp on the r. Then comes Mt. Washington, flanked by Boott's Spur on the 1., and by the high humps of Mt. Clay on the r. The noble peaks of Jefferson, Adams, and Madison are next seen, with Pine Mt. below, on the r. Farther away are the Crescent and Randolph Ranges, Mt. Starr King, and the broken lines of the Pilot Mts., over which are the white domes of the Percy Peaks. The Stratford, Bowback, and Deer Mts. are in the distant N. W. Close at hand on the N. is the Androscoggin Valley, with the rocky ridges of Mts. Hayes and Baldcap over it, and Gorham's white houses below. Farther away towards the N. N. E. are the mountains about the Grafton Notch, and the pointed peak of Goose-Eye; and more to the r. is the long and beautiful valley of Shelburne. Mt. Surprise was a favorite resort of Thomas Starr King, and no description of its view can equal that which he wrote: " Looking up the valley of tae Peabody, we see the five highest peaks of the Washington range, but a full view is given of two only, — Madison, the Apolo of the Highlands, and the Herculean structure of Wash- ington, wiih his higii, bard shoulders and stalwart spurs. There are very few hills of moderate height accessible by bridle-paths, from which a good view of any portion of the great range can be gaine 1, — positions near enough to reveal the extent and freshness of the forests, and yet far enough to allow the effect of light and symmetry. We know of none so favorable in both these respects as Mt Surpri e It ough; to be to Gorham what Mt. Willard is to the Notch. Certainly after several visits to Mt. Wil- lard, when the senses have become used to the impression, at first so startling, made by looking over the cliff into the awful gulf of the Notch, the view gained thereof the summits of the Washington chain, especially of Bit Jefferson, is more fascinating to an artistic sense. And Mt Surprise gives a still more striking spectacle Plain prose, however eloquent, is no fit medium to describe that proud smooth swell of Madison from the Peabody Valley to a peak that pricks the sky. It needs rhythm ; it needs the buoyant surge of a blank-verse like that of Coleridge, to ensoul the fas- cination of that soaring beauty, which spires at last into granite grandeur. There is no point among the New-Hampshire hills where the ' hymn in the valley of Cha- inouni ' breaks from the lips so readily as here. And if one wants to see forest-costume in the utmost richness of folds and retinue, let him look at the broad miles of wilder- ness that flow down the opposing sides of Carter and Madison One is tempted to believe that these two points — the tops of Carter and Madison — were lifted up gradually from the level land at first, and held off from each other just far enough to let the forests droop in the most graceful folds from them, and meet with trails soft as velvet upon the valley. " Ah, and what iutensity of expression in the ragged crest of Adams, which start3 out, it may be, from a melting fog, and overtops the gentler slopes of Madison ; and what euergy in these fir-running southward braces of Washington, engraved per- haps upon a white cloud-background, — each worn to the rocky bone by the tor- rents of summer, and the slower but more penetrative wrath of winter cold ! It is indeed rich music for the eye that is afforded by the quintette of summits seen from Mt. Surprise ; and one who can detect some dim analogy between tones and forms will find increased delight here in seeing how, in the mountain choir, the sharp so- prano of Madison is brought into contrast and balance with the heavy bass of Wash- ington, and how the body of the harmony is tilled up by the tenor of Adams, the 118 Route 31. MOUNT MORIAH. baritone of Jefferson, and the alto of Clay, whose bulk and lines are merely sug- gested by their crests that jut into view. " But a sweeter melody still is offered to the eye that turns from the great hills to the Audroscoggin intervale. It is the strength that ' setteth fast the mountains ' which appeals to us on the W. ; on the E we have the smile of the landscape,. the fluent curves of the river moving ' like charity among its children dear,' the sweet phrases which man has added to the wild natural music, the colors vivid and ten- der that glow upon winding miles of shorn grass and ripening grain No mountain as high as Washington can offer, in its comprehensive pageant, any one pas e age so lovely as this nearer view from Mt. Surprise of the farms that border the Andros- coggin. Here the infinite goodness responds by appropriate symbols to the infinite majesty which is represented by the barren hills." 31. Mount Moriah. This fine mountain is on the N. part of the great eastern range, between Mt. Carter and the unnamed peaks over Shelburne. It attains a height of 4,653 ft. above the sea, or 3,841 ft. above Gorham. On account of the impracticable nature of the country in this vicinity, the greater part of the range remains unexplored, and the name Moriah is applied to nearly all the peaks and ridges between the Androscoggin, Wild, and Peabody Rivers, over an area of nearly 20 square miles. The crests N. of Moriah are of commanding altitudes and fine shapes, and deserve individual names. It is said that the present title was given to the range b} r an early settler on account of its supposed resemblance to the hill of that name in the city of Jerusalem. The good pioneer probably thought that the height and extent of the Hebrew Moriah must have been in some degree proportionate to the greatness of the events which transpired thereon. At one time there was a house on the summit, and a smooth and well-worn bridle- path led up to it. But since the occupation of Gorham by the railway, the burn- ing of the hotel, and the construction of easy roads up Mt. Washington, this route has been nearly abandoned, and is now in bad repair. The worst part of it is on the lower half, and the route from Surprise to Moriah is comparatively plain and easy,— afier traversing the tangled hollow S. E. of the former It is about 2k M. from Surprise to Moriah, the summit of the first ridge being 1 M. from Surprise. Beyond this point the trail leads among and over the bold nubbles on the lofty crest-line, traveling a fine forest and passing seme picturesque ledges. Water is lound at various points, and during their season berries are abundant. Pleasant views arc occasionally given thiough or over the trees, and the beautiful woodland scenery tempts the visitor to frequent rests. During the last H M. the weary | edes- trian is disposed to think that each of the rocky knolls which he is forced to asc end is the final peak. When the latter is attained, after passing the ruins of a small house on the r.. the visitor stands on the summit of a bare ledge which overlooks a vast area of country in a wide and unbroken prospect. " The forest-path itself — unequalled as far as we know in the whole mountain tour — is lovely enough to tempt the visitor, independently of the prospect from the crown." ** The View. — Toward the S. W. is Mt. Washington, looming up in the centre of a line of vast mountains, and flanked on the I. by the long and lofty terrace of Boott's Spur, which ends in a pile of crags. Below the Spur are the striped walls of Tuckerman's Ravine, with tbe gorge of Raymond's Cataract and the upper part of Huntington's Ravine on the r. On the r. of the white Summit House, and below, is the Half- way House, over wlrch are the rugged hump- of Mt. Clay, at the head of MOUNT MORIAH. Route 31. 119 the Great Gulf. More to the r. is the well-marked and smoothly lined crest of Jefferson, succeeded by the stately pyramid of Adams. Just across the Peabody Glen, on the r. of Adams, is the graceful summit of Madi on, whose N. flank flows off into the Moose-River Valley. Pine Mt. is on the r. of Madison, and far below it. Beyond, over the flank of Madi- son, is the Randolph Range, with the Crescent Mts. more to the E. Mt. Starr King is over the Randolph Mts.; and the clustered peaks of the Pilot Mrs. are over the Crescents. Over the r. slope of Pine is the long Deer Mr., with the white Percy Peaks beyond, and the Bowback and Stratford Mts. in the background, far to the N. \V. Green's Ledge is nearer and more to the r., with Long Mt., in Odell, behind it. Gorham is seen below the mountain, its white houses strongly contrasted with the rich green of the Androscoggin meadows and the dark hues of the rearward heights. A little W. of N. are seen the pleasant levels of the vai'ey, as it passes through Berlin and Milan, flanked on the 1. by Mt. Forist, the Berlin Heights, and the Milan Hills. The Dixville and Crys- tal Mts. are far beyond, low down on the horizon. Across the Androscoggin Valley is the bold rocky ridge of Mt. Hayes, with ledges on the S. of its plateau-summit. The ridge stretches away to the r. to Mt. Baldcap, a round-topped and ledgy peak over the bright glens of Shelburne. Beyond this ridge, a little E. of X., and far away on the horizon, are the Magalloway Mts., with the conspicuous peak of Mt. Carmel looming out of the blue distance and Mt. Dustin somewhat nearer. Farther S. is Mt. Azi-coiJs, which is near the N. shore of Lake Umbagog. The X. peaks of Moriah are now seen, covered with white rocks, and rising nobly beyond a deep ravine. In this direction are seen the high peaks of Mt. Ingalls and Goose-Eye; and between their crests are the mountains toward the Grafton Xotch, Speckled Mt., the Bear-River White Cap, and the Sunday-River White Cap. Then comes a third X. peak of Moriah, reaching a great height and surrounded with steep gray cliffs A cluster of the chief peaks of Maine is now seen towards the X. E , the d stant Mt. Bigelow being over the Grafton Xotch, with Saddleback on &e r., and Mt. Abraham nearly in a line over the Sunday-River White Cap. Nearer Moriah are the fair glens of the Androscoggin, stretching through Gilead and Bethel, with the shaggy ledges of Tumble Down Dick in their midst, and on the r. Mt. Calabo, a double ridge with a bare top. Over this valley, and nearly in line with Puzzle Mt., is the graceful cone of Mt. Blue, in Avon. On the E. is the great Wild-River Forest, stretching down the long valley, across which, S. of E., is the heavy double-headed ridge of Mt. Royce, about 5 M. distant, and on the Maine border. Over Royce is the rounded top of Speckled Mt., and through the gap on the r. is a part of Upper Kezar Pond, beyond which are Bear and Hawk Mts., in Waterford. More to the S are Upper Moose Pond, Highland Lake, and part of Long 120 Route 32. MOUNT MORIAH. Pond; and then Mt. Pleasant comes into view, showing a long l-idge rising from apparent levels and crowned by a white house. The ocean is seen in this direction for a long distance, but can hardly be separated from the sky, except at early morning, when the sun is reflected from it. With a powerful glass, on a clear day, the city of Portland is visible to the 1. of Mt. Pleasant. Over a bare spot on the first ridge S. of and close to Mo- riah are the two sharp peaks of Baldface, covered with white rocks, 5-6 M. distant across an untrodden wilderness. Beyond and on the r. of Bald- face are Mts. Eastman and Sable, rising from the heart of the Wild-River Forest; and farther to the r., nearly over Sable, is the symmetrical cone of Kiarsarge, flanked on the r. by Mt. Bartlett. Due S. over the highlands about the Perkins Notch is Double- Head, the S. peak nearly eclipsed by that on the N., over which the rich Saco Valley is seen, stretching away to the remote distance. Walker's Pond and other localities in Conway are discernible. On the r. of Double-Head is Thorn Mt., with the clear-cut ridges of Moat Mt. over its r. flank. The path from Gorham to the summit of Mt. Moriah has been cleared and put in admirable order by Prof. E. T. Quimby, who occupied this peak as one of the stations of the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, in 1879. Horses are now able to ascend by this route, and the noblest peak on the north-eastern ranges is now once more happily accessible. There is a large boulder on Moriah which is worthy of notice. It is f M. from the top, and 20 rods from the path, by a path diverging on the r. (ascending). It was evidently removed from some remote place. The boulder is 25 ft. high, and 15-2Q ft. square, resting only on a few square feet of rock, and weighs 500-600 tons. It bears the name of Quimby' 's Pillow, in honor of Prof. E. T. Quimby. The following corrections are suggested by the U. S. Surveyors (see page 119): "Mt. Ingalls does not appear as a peak, but rather as a flat summit. I should prefer to say: In this direction are seen Mt. Ingalls and the two peaks of Goose Eye, which from this direction resemble the teeth of a circular saw. . . . Mt. Carmel is S° to 10° to the 1. of Baldcap, having a very steep drop-off on the r. and a long high ridge on the 1. A few degrees to the 1. is Magalloway Mt., of similar shape. Just to the 1. of Baldcap, and much nearer than Mt. Carmel, Mt. Dustan can be recognized from its cone-shaped and insulated peak. Almost directly over Baldcap, and 10 M. beyond Dustan, can be seen Mt. Aziscobs, a long bare ridge running N.W. and S.E." The stately and conspicuous peak which lies on the E. of Moriah, over the Androscoggin Valley, is as yet nameless, although, for convenience' SHELBURNE. Route 32. 120 a sake, it is sometimes called the Shelburne Moriah. It has often been visited by parties from Shelburne. Randolph Hill. An old road which diverges from the Jefferson-Hill road at Scater's, on Randolph Hill, and leads 1 M. N. and 1^ M. W., ascending the long slope of Randolph Mt., leads to a point which com- mands a superb view of the Presidential Range, especially of Mt. Adams and King's Ravine, and also gives a prospect of Goose Eye, in its wide horizon. This is one of the most impressive views in the State, and well repays the labor of the ascent, which can be made by carriage (see page 114 and pages 191-192). 32. Shelburne. Boardiug-Houses. — The Winthrop House and Morse's Mountain Cottage (50 guests each; $5-7 a week), near tne station ; Gates Cottage {30 guests), at the foot of Baldcap, and comiuaudiug a noble view; Puilbrook Farm (30 guests; S6-10), N. of the Androscoggin and in the E. part of the town, Grove Cottage (25 guests) and D. Evans s (15 guests), towards Gorhain. Shelburne has 259 inhabitants, and covers 18,140 acres of land, of which 15,000 acres are rugged and mountainous, and the remainder is along the river, and forms the richest of intervales. The present population is but about half that of the town in 1850. Farming is the chief occupation of the people, the best estate being Judge Burbank's White-Mt. Stock-Farm. The town is divided into two parts by the Androscoggin River, which is crossed here by one bridge, and receives the waters of ten brooks, the chief of which is Rattle River. The chief mountains of the town are Ingalls, Baldcap, and the N peaks of Moriah, which are sometimes ascended by the ravine of Rattle River. The hamlet of Shelburne is near the railway station, and has a small church. It is 723 ft. above the sea. Mr. King says of the road through Shelhurne, down to the Gilead Bridge on the S. bank and back to the Lead-Mine Bridge on the N. bank : " No drive of equal length among the mountains offers moe varied interest in the beauty of the scenery, the historic and traditional associations involved with the prominent points of the landscape, and the scientific attractions connected with some portions of the road." Mt. Ingalls has often been ascended, of late years, by the Hoboken people who summer at Shelburne, by the side-road leading in from Lily Pond, 1 M. S. of Philbrook Farm, to Ingalls River, and thence by old and overgrown logging-roads up the stream and beyond, to the summit, which is 8 -9 M. from the highway. The top (3,541 ft. high) is an open ridge, J M. long, covered with mossy rocks and patches of scrub, through which deer-paths run. There is a spring E. of and below the highest point at the S. end of the ridge. The view includes the Kennebec Peaks, Sebago Lake, and much of Western Maine, Mts. Pleasant, Royce, Baldface, Chocorua, the Carter-Moriah and Presidential Ranges, Cherry, Baldcap, the Pilots, and a grand prospect of Goose Eye and Speckled. 120 6 Route 32. SHELBURNE. Mt. Baldcap (page 123) has been thoroughly explored by the Hoboken Appalachians for five years. It consists of four rocky terraces, or knobs, — Mt. Joe, nearest the valley, 1,670 ft. high ; Middle Mt, 2,000 ft.; the bald peak, 2,736 ft. ; and a dark dome-like summit still farther N., 3,0S1 ft. high, and 1-5 M. from Gates Cottage. The latter is practically clear, having been burned over, and views the Presidential and Carter-Moriah Ranges, Lafayette, Cherry, the Randolph, Pilot, and Percy Mts., Berlin and the valley, the velvety Success Wilderness, the mountains about Dix- ville and Umbagog, Goose Eye, Speckled, lngalls, the Bethel hills, Bald- face, Caribou, and Royce. A path has been cut to Dream Lake (2,596 ft. high), between the bald peak and the dome, from whose N. E. shore a lovely view of Washington, Adams, and Madison is given. The Giant Falls are on the outlet, and are very noble during high water. They are 1^-2 M. from the road, by a path from the Peabody farm. On the E. of Baldcap, 5 M. from the highway (by obscure logging-roads), is the remarkable bit of rock architecture known as Lary's Flume ; and on this slope, also, are the Dryad Falls, where a brook glides for a great distance over highly inclined ledges ; and the Moss and Gentian Ponds, whose waters fall thread-like from the mosses downward towards Mill Brook, and are called the Dri})ping Wells. The Bowls and Pitchers are on Mill Brook, 1 M. from the highway, and show a series of curious falls and pot-holes in the solid granite rock. The Crag, just E. of Gates Cottage, and Crow's Nest, 1 M. E. of Phil- brook's, are easily ascended and far- viewing spurs, 1,300-1,500 ft. above the sea, and 600 - 800 tt. above the valley. The handsome cottage of W. K. Astor, of New York, is near the Win- throp House; and across the river is the new villa of Miss Anna Whitney, of Boston. 2 M. down the valley is Judge Burbank's White-Mt. Stock Farm, with fine buildings, and 100 head of thoroughbred cattle. 2 M. W. of the village is the $50,000 stone villa of Charles J. Endicott, of Detroit. MT. WINTHROP. Route 32. 121 Shelburne was granted to Mark H. Wentworth and others in 1771, and was occu- pied by settlers in 1770. In the autumn of 1776 a party of American soldiers emerged from the forest into the town, having deserted from the army which lay before Quebec and crossed the wilderness amid terrible sufferings. One of their number, named Hall, was left near the frontier, exhausted and famine-stricken. He was found by a searching party, dead, with his face in the water of the brook, which has tinee been known as Hall's Stream. Early in the history of the town an Indian passed through the settlement, and was soon afterwards attacked by a pack of wolves, and devoured, after an heroic struggle. Not long afterward his bones and clothing were found, with the carcasses of seven huge wolves alongside. In 1781 the Canadian Indians ravaged the town. Moses Rock is a I«dge near the road W. of the village, which is 60 X 90 ft. in area, and inclined at an angle of 50 degrees. During the early sur- veys, the best lot in the town was offered to whoever would climb it, whereupon Moses Ingalls, removing his shoes, ran up its face and won the reward. It is said that a hound once pursued a moose over this cliff, and both fell to the bottom dead. Granny StarbinFs Ledge is near this point, and once supported an enormous boulder (since blasted for railway work), under which Granny Starbird, the ancient doctress of this region, remained all night, during a tremendous mountain-storm, standing and holding her hor.-e. The Shelburne Basins aue a series of not very remarkable potholes, oc- curring in the upper glens of Pea Brook, over 1 M. from the road, ou an old logging-track. Mt. Winthrop is in the town of Shelburne, and occupies a favorable position for overlooking the Androscoggin Valley. The summit is a little over 1 M. from the Winthrop House, and is reached by a wood-road which leads to the r. from the main road E. of the hotel, crosses a pasture and ascends the slope. The summit is composed of uneven ledges, and is partly occupied by trees. The View from the top includes a long sweep of the valley, whose ver- dant meadows are banded by the gracefully winding Androscoggin River. Nearly N., across the valley, is Baldcap, beyond which are the high ridges towards Mt. Ingalls. More distant, and farther to the r., are the many mountains of Newry and other ranges of Western Maine, sweeping down by the glens of Gilead to the broadening plains of Bethel. The best view of the White Mts. is gained from a point below the woods on the farther slope of the summit. The great ranges of Mts. Moriah and Carter are near at hand, across a dark wooded valley; and the N. E. crest of Moriah towers on the r. Beyond these are seen the northern presidential peaks, massively outlined and boldly advanced. Hark; Hill is in the E part of the town, overlooking the glens of Gilead, and was so named because the inhabitants of the town took refuge on its summit during the Indian foray of 1781, and heard thence the whoopiugs of the enemy throughout the night. It was a war-party of Canadian Indians who had made an attack on Bethel, and, on their return-march, sacked several houses in Shelburne, and killed one man and capjured another. The next morning Hark Hill was evacuated, and the people fled through the wilderness to Fryeburg, 59 II. distant. 6 122 Route 32. LEAD-MINE BRIDGE. Near the point where the Lead-Mine Bridge road diverges from the Shelburne road is a small hill whence is obtained the noble view described by Starr King : " Mt. Madison sits on a plateau over the Androscoggin meadows. No intervening ridges hide his pyramid, or break the keen Hues of his sides. He towers clear, symmetrical, and proud against the vivid blue of tue western sky. And as if the bright fore- ground of the meadows, golden in the afternoon light, and the velvety softness of the vague blue shadows that dim the desolation of the mountain, and the hues that flame on the peaks of its lower ridges, and the vigor of its sweep upwards to a sharp crest, are not enough to perfect the artistic finish of the picture, a frame is grace- fully carved out of two nearer hills, to seclude it from any neighboring roughness around the Peabody valley, and to narrow into the most shapely proportions the plateau from which it soars." The Lead-Mine Bridge is about 3 M. from Gorham, and 3 M. from Shelburne village. From its centre a noble * view is obtained of Mt. Madison, with Adams over it and Washington to the I., the river forming a beautiful foreground. " The best time to make the visit is between five and seven of the afternoon. Then the lights are softest, and the shadows richest on the foliage of the islands of the river, and on the lower mountain sides. And then the gigantic gray pyramid of Madison with its pointed apex, back of which peers the ragged crest of Adams, shows to the best advantage. It fills up the whole distance of the scene. The view is one of uncommon simplicity and symmetry. The rolling slopes upon the base of Mt. Moriah on one side, and the jutting spurs of Mts. Hayes and Baldcap on the other, compose an effective avenue through which the eve roams upward to the higher mountain that sits back as on a throne. . . ... [It is] a view which at once takes the eye captive, and not only claims front rank among the richest landscapes that are combined in New Hampshire out of the White Mts. and the streams they feed, but impresses travellers that are fresh from Europe as one of the loveliest pic- tures which have been shown to them on the earth For eye-landscape, to be enjoyed without reference to the demands of the canvas, it would be difficult to conceive a scene where greater beauty of river and islands is crowned with a moun- tain so bold and yet so tenderly tinted, so symmetrical and yet so masculine, so satisfactory in height without losing on the surface clearness and vigor of detail." (King.) The lead-mine was about 2 M. from the bridge, on the N. side of the river, in a deep mica-slate ravine, where are found veins of zinc, copper, and silver-bearing lead-ore, sometimes in heavy masses of fine quality. Three pounds of silver were derived from a ton of lead-ore. The mine has long been abandoned. Tbe Gates Cottage is about 2 M. E. of the Lead-Mine Bridge, on the N. side of the river, and near the base of Mt. Baldcap. It is on high ground, and a rich* view is enjoyed either from the house or from the arbor on an adjacent knoll. " How grand and complete is the landscape that stretches before us as we look up the river 7-8 M. to the base of Madison and to the bulk of Washington, whose majestic dome rises over two curving walls of rock, that are set beneath it like wings! Seen in the afternoon light, the Androscoggin and its meadows look more lovely than on any portion of the road between Bethel and Gorham, and more fas- cinating than any piece of river-scenery it has ever been our fortune to look upon in the mountain-region The Shelburne view is superior in simplicity, large- ness of feature, and bold picturesqueness. In graceful picturesqueness it must yield to Conway, but the mountain-forms in Madison and the crest of Jefferson are more spirited and decisive." (Starr Kjkg.) MT. BALDCAP. Route 33. 123 33 Mount Baldeap (?ee page 120 b). Mfc. Baldeap is N. of the central part of Shelburne, and is 2,952 ft above the sea. It is a vast pile of ledges, heaped above each other line over line, and abounds with blueberries in their season. The top is wooded, but a fine view is commanded from adjacent ledges, marked by piles of stones The best route of attack is from the Peabody farm, about 1 M. E. of the Lead -Mine Bridge, whence the a.-cent may be made in 1^-2 hrs. A plaiu path leads in from the house to a secluded pasture-lot, and runs out again towards the mountain from its r. upper corner. When it reaches the crest of the first ridge, the path should be left, and the visitor ascends to the 1. oblique, following up the spur through a pleasant second-growth forest, and then over far-viewing ledges. There is another good and far-viewing path from Gates Cottage. * The View is in some respects superior to that from Mt. Hayes. Mt. Ingalls is a little N. of E., and is flanked by the more distant hills of Gilead and Bethel, prominent among which is Tumble Down Dick. The beauti- ful Androscoggin is seen in this direction for many leagues, winding grace- fully through the rich meadows and under the shadow of lofty heights. To the S. of Bethel is Mt. Calabo, a long ridge with a little peak on the N. ; and on its r. is Mt. Royce, round-topped and massive. Over the bend of the river below Shelburne is the N. extension of Baldface, about which are the dark highlands of the Wild-River Forest. Mt. Winthrop is the low eminence E. of S. across the valley, w.th pastures on its sides. Near its base is the hamlet of Shelburne, with the bare ledge of Moses' Rock on the r., over which and on the r. are the many peaks and lofty ridges of Mt. Moriah, indented by the ravines of Rattle River and Pea Brook, and bear- ing Mt. Surprise on its r. flank. The crest of Mt. Carter is farther to the r. The view now rests on Mt. Washington, on whose 1. is Boott's Spur, with the wall of Tuckerman's Ravine and the crags of the Lion's Head. The Half-Way House and portions of the carriage-road are seen, leading up to the white hotel on the last summit. The next view-line is up the entire length of the Great Gulf to Mt. Clay, whose uneven rolling crests are seen at its head. Somewhat nearer, and to the r., are the long stony ridges of Madison, surmounted by a pyramidal peak, behind which is the higher crest of Adams, of graceful shape' and imposing height. In this direction, but nearer, is the low and leonine shape of Pine Mt. ; and the rich intervales of the Androscoggin fill the foreground, traversed by the bright sinuous band of the river. Over the N. flank of Madison is the distant blue ridge of Cherry Mt., on whose r. and nearer are the Randolph and Crescent Mts., the Pliny Range, and the Pilot Mts , all mingled in a wide wilderness of wavy crests and wooded slopes. A picturesque and irregular ridge runs W. from Baldeap, dotted with low sharp cliffs and bristling knobs. Dream Lake is nearly N. of the mountain, and is seen from ledges on that side s far below in the forest. 124 Route 31 BERLIN FALLS. 34. Berlin Falls. Hotels. — Wilson House and Cascade House (ft 5-U a week). Stages to Milan 03 M.) semi daily, and tri-weekly from IV. Miiau (22 M ) to Errol Dam, where the Rangelev-Uinbagog steamboats may be taken. Berlin has 3 churches. The papex' lor tne N. Y. Tribune and Star is made here. The town of Berlin has 3,000 inhabitants, and covers 31,000 acres of land, of which only 1,340 are improved, the remainder being occupied by moun- tains and forests. It is traversed by the Upper Ammonoosuc, Dead, -and Androscoggin Rivers; and contains parts of the Pilot, Pliny, and Crescent Mts. Berlin Falls is the name of the only village, which is at the conflu- ence of the Dead and Androscoggin Rivers, and has a railway station and a small church. It is the site of the great mills of the Berlin Lumber Company, which saw from 20,000,000 to 25,000,000 ft of lumber every year, valued at about $ 350,000. The logs are rafted down the Andros- coggin from the northern forests and the Umbagog country. This town was granted in 1771 to Sir William Mayne, of Barbadoes,and others of his family, and bore the name of Maynesburough until 1829. The population has more than trebled within 20 years, on account of the rapid development of the lum- ber busiuess. The * Berlin Falls are 5-6 M. from Gorham, and are within a few rods of the Berlin-Falls railway station. They are visited by a path which turns in near a squalid shanty on the E. of the road, and soon reaches a foot-bridge over the gorge. Just before descending to this point, the path crosses a line of ledges whence is gained a view of the Presidential Range in the S. S. E. Starr King's much-lauded view from the bridge itself has been spoiled by the growth of a curtain of trees on the adjacent shore. The vicinity of the falls, though so near an uncomely village, is fortu- nately surrounded by trees, and remains in a comparatively primitive condition. The Androscoggin River here descends nearly 200 ft. in 1 M. of its course, in a series of powerful falls and rapids, and is confined be- tween high and curving Avails of dark schist. The main fall is just above the bridge, and is noticeable for massiveness and power rather than for altitude. From this point the stream dashes down a line of vexed rapids until it comes out on the widenings below. Beyond the bridge is a high wooded island, traversed and encircled by paths, and separated from the E. bank by a deep gorge, filled with fantastically piled boulders and water- worn rocks. The river formerly poured vast bodies of water through this chasm during the season of floods. " We do not think that in New England there is any passage of river passion that will compare with the Berlin Falls . . . . Here we have a strong river that shrinks but very little in long droughts, and that is fed by the Umbagog chain of lakes, pouring a clean and powerful tide through a narrow granite pass, and descending nearly 200 ft. in the course of a mile How madly it hurls the deep transparent amber down the pass and over the boulders, — flying and roaring like a drove of young lions, crowding each other in furious rush after prey in sight ! On the bridge, we look down and see the current shooting swifter than 'the arrowy Rhone,' and over- lnpped on cither side by the hissing foam thrown hnck by each of the rock walls. Above the bridge, we can walk on the ledge of the right hand bank, and sit down ALPINE CASCADES. Route 3d. 125 where we can touch the water and see the most powerful plunge of all, where half the river leaps in a smooth cataract, and, around a large rock which, though sunken, seems to divide the motion of the hood, a narrow and tremendous current of foam shoots into the pass, and mingles its fury at once with the burden of the heavier fall." (Starr Klxg.) The Alpine Cascades are 3| M. from Gorham and 1J M. from Berlin Falls, and are interesting during seasons of full water, though at other times they are rather weak. Carriages are left near the road, on the W. bank, and visitors cross the Androscoggin by two light suspension-bridges, suitable only for pedestrians. Just above the main bridge is a cataract in the river, which is preferred by many to the cascades. On the knoll above the bridge is a small house where refreshments are sold acd where a toll of 25 c. is taken from each visitor. A good path of about \ M. long leads thence to the foot of the Alpine Cascades, whose course may be followed for a few rods by means of stairways and ropes on the ledges. The pi-ecipitous ledges and sharp crags in the bed of the brook afford every facility for a picturesque fall, when enough water is supplied by heavy rains. Mount Forist is over the village of Berlin Falls, and may be ascended in 45 minutes by following a path which runs from the houses opposite the railway station to the foot of the ledges, and then clambering up over the rocks. The mountain is 915 ft. high above the railway, and is covered with trees on top, the sides being surrounded with high bare cliffs of im- posing dimensions. According to Prof. Hitchcock, Forist is the E. end of a long chain which includes the Pliny, Randolph, and Crescent Mts. 35. The Milan Road. The roads between Berlin Falls and Milan Corner afford a favorite drive for summer-visitors in this section. The distance between the two villages is about 8 M., and the roads are good, following the course of the An- droscoggin and giving panoramas 6f pleasant valley-scenery and farming- lands. Views are also given of the Percy Peaks and the other mountains of Stratford, on the N. W., and of Goose-Eye, Chick wolnepy, and the border ridges on the E. The road W. of the river is usually taken for the north- ward drive, and the E. road for the return, since this arrangement enables one to see the Presidential Range at its best. Berlin Heights are reached by a road which diverges from the W. road near an old school-house, about 3 M. from Berlin Falls. The ascent by carriage is somewhat difficult, on account of the steepness of the way; but there is a succession of pleasant mountain-views from the upper courses of the hills. The road is about 1^ M. long, and terminates at a farm-house. The road from Milan Corner S. along the E. bank of the Androscoggin crosses Chandler's Brook about 2g M. below the village. Soon afterwards 126 Route 36. MILAN. a point is reached whence one of the best views of the Presidential Range may be gained, and thenceforward until Berlin Falls are approached the noble prospect is continued. This * view may also be obtained by driv- ing 4 M. from Berlin Falls up the E. bank of the river, and then returning slowly. The highest peak on the 1. is Washington, on whose r. are the cones of Madison and Adams, with the notched mound of Pine Mt. in the valley below. This view has been painted by one of the most eminent artists of America, and is now in England. Starr King laments that so few tourists have yet taken this ride and enjoyed its superb prospect. The excursion may easily be made in a two-hours' drive from Gorham or a shorter route from Berlin Falls. The tranquil beauty of the river on this reach is also an attractive feature, and "on a still afternoon it sleeps here as though it had not been troubled above, and had no more hard fortune to encounter below." Of the main view from the E. road, Starr King says : " Mt. Washington has lifted his head into sight beyond Madison, and has pushed out the long outline of the ridge that climbs from the Pinkham forest, and by all the stairways of his plateaus, to his cold and rugged crown. What a majestic trio ! What breadth and mass, and yet what nervous contours ! The mountains are arranged in half-circle, so that we see each summit perfectly defined, and have the outline of each on its character- istic side lying sharp against the sky, — Adams as it is braced from the N , Madison from the S. E., Washington from the S They hide the other summits of the rauge entirely. " The Milan view is superior in symmetry to Shelburne, but is not equal to Con- way in variety and proportion. The arrangement gives three distiuct distances almost ungraduated. First, the river and its meadow borders, suddenly cut off by the dark joining of the long flattened spur of the Pilot Hills, and the abrupt and higher base of Mt. Hayes ; beyond these nothing but a wide space of gray air ; while far away in this arise the great mountains, grouped in a triple-peaked pyramid, admirable in proportions, and strangely beautiful in the afternoon light." 36. Milan (pronounced Mile-un) has a small inn, and is reached by daily stages from the Grand Trunk trains at Berlin Falls. The town has 710 inhabitants, and covers 31,154 acres, of which 5,512 acres are improved. It was granted to Sir William Mayne in 1771, and retained the name of Paulsburg until 1824. The chief occupation of the people is farming, though there are several lumber and starch mills. Milan Corner is a small hamlet on high ground W. of the Chickwolnepy Mts., whence a road runs W. N. W. over the Milan Hills to the hamlet of W. Milan, on the Grand Trunk Rail- way. Grand views of the mountains are obtained from W. Milan, from the road E. of the Androscoggin S. E. of Milan, and from the heights N. of Milan. The latter view shows the broad and peaceful valley of the Androscoggin in the foreground, running towards the White Mts. In the centre of the group is Mt. Adams, with the immense gorge of King's Ravine cut into its side, over which is Mt. Washington. Jefferson is on the r., and MadLcn rises boldly on the 1. UPPER BARTLETT. Route 37. 127 Oreen's Ledge is 2h M from W. Milan, and is reached by following the road to Higgiurf's Mill, 1} M. from the village, whence a logging-road ascends alu;ost to t :e summit. It is nearly 2,000 ft. above the sea, and is lined on the S. by remark- able clLxs.at whose foot are piles of boulders, one of which is 70 ft. long and 50 ft. high. Tiie view includes the Presidential Range, which is nearly S., to the r. of wiii'a are the Crescent Mts. and Mt Forist. S. W. and W. are the long lines of the Pilot Range, wuh their many wooded crests : and about N. W. are the white domes of the Percy Peaks. Mill Mt , near .^tark, and certain of the Stratford moun- tains are next seen on the r. The Ragged M.S. in Odell are about N N. W., beyond which are the ranges in Millsfield, with many of the chief peaks of Western Maine, including Goose-Eye. Farther around toward the YVhite-Mt range are the wooded lines of Mt. Hayes, near Gorham, beyond which are the broken ridges of Mt Moriah and the Carter Range. Success is the pathetic name of the township E. of Milan, which, though granted in 1773. had but 5 inhabitants in 1870. It covers 30,000 acres, and is trav- ersed by the Chickwoluepy Mts Cambridge is another wilderness-town, on the N. E., covering 23,160 acres, granted in 1793, and containing but 28 inhabitants in 1870 The people live near the S end of Lake Umbagog, beyond the Hampshire Hills, and formerly had a forest- trail to Milan. Hummer adjoins Milan on the N , in the Androscoggin Valley, and covera 23041 acres. It has 317 inhabitants, engaged in farming ; and much of its area is covered wi.h cold highlands. 37. Upper Bartlett. Hotels. — The Bart'.ett House (by Frank George) is a large country-Inn near the station (50 guests; ^7-12 a week) Guittes. — Capt. hideout and johu 0. Lob) are tne best nere. Restaurant at the Station. Distances (on the highway j. — Bartlett to Lower Bartlett, 7{ M. ; X. Conway, 12,; lieuiis station, 5^ ; rtiilty UoOae, 11 ; Crawlord llou.-e, 16^. Tueae distances were obtaiued by odometer surveys. Liverinore Mills, G M. Upper Bartlett is a station on the P. & 0. Railroad, near which a small hamlet has arisen. It is in the centre of a pictn esque amphitheatre of mountains, having Carrigain, the Nancy Range, Tremont, and Haystack on the W. ; Hart's and Willoughbv Ledges, Mts. Parker, Crawford, Reso- lution, Langdon, and Pickering on the X.; Kiarsarge and Moat on the E. ; and Table and Bear Mts. on the S. Numerous excursions may be made from this point over the adjacent peaks; and there is rich tmuting in Albany Brook and other tributaries of the Saco. If the Carrigain Ho- tel is builr, and the railroad does not locate too many laborers here, Upper Bartlett may become one of the best centres of forest-'ours in the mountain- district. Mt. Carrigain is seen to the best advantage hence, and Champ- ney made his celebrated painting of it from near the old mill. The formidable and frowning peaks which surround the hamlet are finely con- trasted with the rich and narrow intervales of the Saco. A bridge here crosses the river to a group of farms on the N., and through the low pass on the S. a road is projected to Albany and the Swift-River Intervale. The Bartlett Land and Lumber Company own 40,000 acres of wood- lands, and have a large steam-mill at Upper Bartlett. During the winter 128 Route 38. UPPER BARTLETT. of 1874-5 they hauled out 7,000,000 ft. of lumber. Near the hamlet is the Chapel of the Hills, a little church which was opened in 1854. The Willoughby Ledge is about a half-hour's walk from Upper Bartlett, across the Saco, and beyond a succession of sheep-pastures. In some places its dark cliffs overhang so as to form ample shelters, where the sheep take refuge during stormy weather. From the summit a beautiful view of the Saco Valley is afforded, with the dark mountains on the S. Sawyer's Rock is a dark ledge on the 1. of the road, about 2 M. W. of Upper Bartlett, which derives its name from the old hunter who helped the discoverer of the Notch to get the first horse through. During the laborious transit the refreshing bottle was often called into requisition, so that when he reached this point it was quite empty, and was dashed against the ledge. Bear Mountain is an immense line of ridges, extending through con- siderable portions of Bartlett and Albany, between the Saco and Swift Rivers. Its crests are wooded, and dense forests cover all its long flanks, which are cut into by deep ravines. The height is estimated at 3,000 ft. But few persons have visited these tangled wilds. The Bartlett and Albany Railroad was built in 1886-87, to open up the vast timber-lands around Bear Mt. and Mt. Silver Spring. It has grades ot 380 ft. to the mile. 4.j M. S. of Bartlett it crosses the height of laud, and reaches Rideout Camp, 1^ M. beyond. Albany is 12 M. from Bartlett. This is not a passenger route. It stops at the Albany line, 6 M. from Bartlett. Table Mountain is E. of Bear Mt., and is a flat-topped and forest- covered ridge, deriving its name naturally from its level upper plateau. It is separated from Moat Mt. by the approaching ravines of two brooks. It is nearer the Swift-River road than the Saco, and may be visited more easily on that side. 38. Mount Langdon is nearly N. of Upper Bartlett, and 2 M. distant, the ascent requiring about 2 hrs. It is in the centre of the range of rocky summits N. of the Saco, and has ledgy sides, draped with woods and abounding in berries. The summit is of a sandy character, and is 2,460 ft. above the sea. The ascent is easy, and is entered by crossing the Saco bridge and traversing the pastures beyond. The path is of recent construction, and the dis- tance from the hotel to the summit is two and three-quarter miles. If the small thickets near the top could be cleared away, the view would be greatly improved. This peak was at one time ascended by Mrs. Lucy Stone Blackwell, who named it in honor of her husband; but the Appa- lachian Mountain Club has given it the better name of Mi. Langdon, in MT. LAXGDON. Route 38. 129 honor of Samuel Langdon, D. D., an early president of Harvard Univer- sity, and joint-author of the first map of New Hampshire (published in 1761). The Langdons were one of the ancient patrician families of this State. Mr. H. W. Ripley says : " It is one of the most perfect gems in White-Mt. views, and its easy ascent will invite many who love to look upon so charming a landscape as is seen from its summit. 1 ' * The View. — Nearly due W. is the lofty and imposing Mt. Carrigain, with Vose's Spur and the long ridges running to the S., and the sharp points of Mts. Lowell and Anderson on the r., nearly eclipsed by the nearer Mt. Nancy. Over and to the r. of this range are Mts. Bond and Guyot and the Twin Mts., forming a long and massive line of heights in the distance. Toward the N. W., within 2 M., is the well-marked peak of Mt. Parker, beyond which Crawford is seen on the 1. and Resolution on the r. From the N. of Resolution the dark Montalban Ridge runs off toward Mt. Washington, and over it is seen the round swell of Mt. Pleasant, with Franklin and Monroe above on the r. Almost due N. is the wild valley of the Rocky Branch, filled with dense and tangled forests, and beyond its solitary leagues rises the noble cone of Mt. Washington, with the alpine hamlet on its summit and the lofty terrace of Boott's Spur on the r. Farther away through the Pinkham Notch is Pine Mt., near Gorham; and on the r. is Mt. Wild-Cat, overtopped by the higher peak of the Carter Dome, with a portion of the Moriah Range beyond. Iron Mt. lifts its white and ledgy sides across the glen of the Rocky Branch, 3-4 M. away, beyond which is the dark Mt. Sable, standing nearly in front of the high crest of Baldface. The singular peaks of Double-Head are about W. X. W., in front of which are the densely wooded crests of Mts. Eastman and Slope. Farther to the r., and nearer, is Thorn Mt., back of which are the resembling spires of Mt. Gemini. Down the Rocky-Branch glen, and almost over Lower Bartlett, is the summit of Kiarsarge, flanked on the r. by the Green Hills of Conway. The elongated sierra of Mt. Pleasant, in Maine, is next seen, over the Green Hills, and marked by a hotel on its central height. The view now rests on Mt. Attitash and the ponderous braces and foot- hills of Moat Mt., whose white and beautiful N. peak is about S. E. To the r. of the chaotic ridges of Moat is the flat-topped Table Mt., over which is the gable-like sharp peak of Chocorua, flanked by thin white ridges. On the r. of Table is Bear Mt., across the Saco Valley, forming a heavy rounded mass, which is covered with dark forests and flanked by a desolate defile. Passaconaway and Whiteface are far away over this mountain, and on their r. is the three-pointed mass of Tripyramid. To the r., across the Saco Valley, is Haystack, showing a sharp dark peak, with the tawny crest of Tremont beyond. The bold cliffs of Hart's Ledge are still nearer, at the great angle of the Saco River; and over them 6* I 130 Route 39. MT. TREMONT. appear the distnnt but stately crests of Teeumseh and Osceola, of which the latter is the higher and nearer. Farther to the r. are the nameless mountains of the inner Pemigewasset Forest; and Mt. Hancock is visible up the valley of Sawyer's River, closing the circuit and falling behind the noble Carrigain. 39. Mount Tremont is not far from Upper Bartlett, the journey to the top requiring but about 3 hrs. John 0. Cobb is competent as a guide on this mountain. The slopes are covered with dense forests, among which are a few windfalls; but parts of the upper ridge have been burnt over, giving opportunity for a broad view. There is no path, and visitors usually strike in from the road beyond Sawyer's Rock. Tremont is 3,393 ft. high, and its upper peaks are of a light-colored stone, present- ing the appearance of colossal white knobs when seen from a distance. In many respects the view is one of a high degree of grandeur, and especially is this true in the direction of the lower presidential peaks and towards Carrigain. It is to be hoped that a good path may be cleared up to this peak by the people of Upper Bartlett, in order that this view may be more generally enjo}ed. It forms the sub- ject of one of the finest of Morse's panoramas, printed by the N. H. Geological Survey. (See also Appalachia, vol. i , page 124.) * The View. — Nearly N. W., and about 5 M. distant, is the immense mass of Mt. Carrigain, with the long S. ridge sweeping up from Sawyer's River to its rounded peak, below which, on the r., is the dome-like Vose's Spur, enclosing the great ravine of the W. Fork. On the r. is the profound gorge of the Carrigain Notch, through which are seen portions of Mts. Bond and Guyot, with the S. Twin to the N. Over the ledgy sides of the adjacent Camel's Hump is the symmetrical cone of Mt. Lowell, with Anderson over it, on the r., and the N. Twin Mt. far beyond. Mt. Nancy is next seen, close at hand, continuing the Lowell-Anderson range to the N. E., and running off in long terraces to the Saco Valley. Over its r. shoulder is the sharp peak of Willey, with Mt. Field behind it on the 1. ; and a portion of the round disk of Willard appears over a lower terrace, with the Deception range beyond. Then comes the steep side of Webster, striped with brilliant hues, and with a portion of the Frankenstein Cliff below its r. flank, girded by the P. & 0. Railroad. The view now runs up the narrow and winding Saco Valley, whence the great gorge of the Mt.-Washington River is seen diverging to the r., near the Frankenstein Cliff. On the r. of Webster, and apparently at the head of the Saco Valley, is Mt. Jackson, showing a low point against the sky; and farther to the r. is the higher and flatter top of Clinton. The prominent rounded crest of Pleasant is next seen, followed by the level plateau of Franklin and the high crags of Monroe, over which peers the summit of Jefferson. Then Mt. Washington comes into view, pre-eminent above all the others, bearing MT. TREMONT. Route 39. 131 houses on its summit, and overlooking the deep chasm of Oakes's Gulf. On the r. Boott's Spur projects to the S. S. E., whence the shaggy Mont- alban Ridge descends directly towards Tremont, well foreshortened, to the nearer Crawford group, whose highly colored ledges are plainly visible. Mt. Crawford is on the I.; over it are the two upper rock-faced terraces of the Giant's Stairs; and to the r. is the high and unmarked swell of Mt. Resolution. Mt. Hope is nearer, rising over Hart's Ledge towards Mt. Crawford; and Mt. Parker is on the r., just S. of Resolution. On the r. of and far beyond Resolution, the sky-line sinks down into the Pinkham Notch, on whose r. are the remote blue ridges of Wild-Cat and the Carter Dome, with a small upper section of Moriah. Portions of the Eagle and Black Mts. of Jackson are seen, about N. E., nearly over Mt. Langdon; and then the ledgy flanks of Iron Mt. appear, 7 M. distant, over which rise the distant white peaks of Baldtace, cutting the horizon. Farther away is a part of Speckled Mt. The next conspicuous points are the similar peaks of Double-Head, finely relieved against the sky, with Sable behind them on the 1., and Slope on the r. The view then passes over the low ledges of Mts. Pickering and Stanton, at the confluence of the Saco and the Rocky Branch, to the long- flanked crest of Thorn Mt., the second connected swell on the 1. of which is Tin Mt. A line of remote blue mountains in Maine meets the horizon above Thorn. The Saco Valley now opens to the E., and is visible for 8- 10 M., with the winding river on the 1. and the straight band of the railroad on the r. At the end of this beautiful vista is the tall and graceful pyra- mid of Kiarsarge, with the sister peaks of Mt. Gemini on the 1 , and Hum- phrey's Ledge below. On the r. of Kiarsarge are the Green Hills of Conway, much lower, and laid in wavy lines against the blue back- ground of the Waterford mountains and the highlands of Norway and Sweden. Farther to the r., and over the high dark ridge of Bear Mt., are the white peaks of Moat Mt , over whose 1. flank is Mt. Pieasant, near Sebago Lake. Farther to the r , and but 3 M. distant, is the flat top of Table Mt. The Freedom hills and the Green Mt. in Effingham are seen beyond and very distant. Nearly S. S. W. is the stately white crest of Chocorua, supported by lofty piles of rocky ledges, and flanked on the r. by the lowly curved top of Paugus, over which a part of the Ossipee Range is seen. Nearly S. is the white mound of the Potash, beyond which looms the black dome of Passaconaway, with the peaks of White- face still farther away. The sierra of Tripyramid is nearer and more to the r., and a portion of the Mad-River country opens beyond, with the high peaks of Tecumseh and Osceola on the r. The abrupt heights of Green's Cliff are about 3 M. distant, on the S. W. ; and farther to the r., a little S. of W., is the high blue ridge of Moosilauke. The view now passes over the lower part of the Pemigewasset Forest, and rests on the confused ridges and tall peaks of Mt. Hancock, back of Carrigain. Farther away, 132 Route 40. HAYSTACK. between Hancock and Carrigain, is a portion of the thin serrated crest- line of Lafayette. 40. The Bartlett Haystack is the fine conical peak S. W. of Upper Bartlett, near Mt. Tremont. The summit is 2\ M. from Upper Bartlett, and is reached with very little iatigue by a march through the woods. There is no path, at present. The View. — To the X. of Haystack is the Saco Valley, bending around Hart's Ledge in its great curve from W. to N.., and visible in either direc- tion for several miles. On its 1. side, above Hart's Ledge, is the Franken- stein Cliff, pushing out from the vicinity of the Arethusa Falls and ap- proaching the sinuous river. The long defile of the White-Mt. Notch extends far up to the N., and near its farther end are Mts. Willey and Webster, respectively on the 1. and r. sides. Nearly N. of Haystack across the valley are the high and ledge-crowned Mts. Crawford and Resolution, the sharp peak of the former contrasting with the even plateau of the latter. Below Crawford is Mt. Hope and below Resolution is Mt. Parker, with Giant's Stairs rising behind and above. Over the flanks of Crawford are Mts. Jackson, Clinton, and Pleasant, with the rugged crown of Monroe on the r. ; and the cone of Washington is over Resolution. Portions of Jefferson and Adams are seen on either side of Wa*hing- ton, nearly eclipsed by the central peak; and the upper heights of Mt. Wild-Cat and the Carter Dome are to the r. Across the valley and rising from the narrow intervales of Upper Bartlett are Hart's Ledge (on the 1.), Willoughby Ledge, Mt. Langdon, Mt. Pickering, and Mt. Stanton. The yellow ledges of Iron Mt. are about N. E., beyond which are Black Mt. in Jackson, and Baldface, with its white crest. More to the r. and nearly as far are the twin mamelons of Double-Head and the wooded swell of Thorn Mt. BeloAv the similar cones of Mt. Gemini is the sharp and symmetrical crest of Kiarsarge, buttressed by Mt. Bartlett on the W. Nearly E. is the great Bear Mt., exhibiting several heads and over- looked by the brightly colored N. peak of Moat Mt. Chocorua shows its white spire, a little E. of S., and a part of the blue Ossipee Range is seen far beyond. Farther to the r. is the dark dome of Passaconaway, nearly concealing the high slopes of Whiteface. Still to the r. is the thin sierra of Tri pyramid, with Sandwich Dome in the background; and either Osceola or Tecumseh appears to the W. Nearly W. is the stra'ght-sided plateau of Green's Cliff, and close at hand in the N. W. is Tremonl, whose bare white ridge shuts out the view in that direction over a considerable arc of the circle of vision. This mountain, whose local name is " The Haystack," appears to be the Mt. Silver Spring of the Appalachian Mountain Club. The peak is 2,960 fi. high, and thickly woodtd; and may be reached in 2£ hrs. from the road (H. M. Ridcout, guide). See Ajwalachia. Vol. II. page 282. BIT. LOWELL. Route 41. 133 41. Mount Lowell and the Nancy Range. Mount Lowell was formerly known as Brickhouse ML, and received its present name in 1868, in honor of a Portland gentleman who has been an enthusiastic mountain-explorer. It is 3,850 ft. high, and falls into the Carrigain Notch with remarkable cliffs, apparently in a half-ruined condi- tion, and showing ledges of bright colors. " The slopes of these two mountains in Carrigain Notch are more imposing, both on account of their exceeding steepness and of their great height, than any others yet de- scribed in the White Mts." Lowell is the farthest W. of the four peaks of the Nancy Range. Mt. Lowell is ascended from the Carrigain Notch hy following up its S. spur, the route being steep and badly obstructed. The summit is exceedingly sharp, and is only reached af\er a breathless and exhaustive scramble. This is the point that looks so much like a black spire when viewed from the distant mountains. Mt. Nancy is 3,800 ft. high. It is at the E. end of the range, over the Saco Valley, and occupies a conspicuous position in the views from the N. ani E. On its inner slopes the forests are large and easily passable. This peak received the name of Mt. Amorisgeht, some 20 years since, in com- memoration of the fate of the unfortunate maiden who died at its foot (see page 138). The word is compounded of two Latin words, meaning "The Frost of Love," and is accented on its third syllable, in order to resemble an Indian name. Mt. Anderson is between Mts. Nancy and Lowell, attaining a height of nearly 4,000 ft. It was named in honor of the chief engineer of the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad. An Appalachian (Mr. Webster Wells) thus describes a reconnoissance hitherward : "There is a perfect labyrinth of logging-roads extending in all directions from the Livermore Mills, and it is next to impossible to reach any desired point without a guide. However, I started out, and by great good luck struck the proper road to Carrigain Notch. 1^ hrs. alter leaving the camp, we stood on the divide, having grand views along the march of the magnificent opposing cliffs of Lowell and Carrigain. A few minutes' walk around the N. slope of Lowell, on a level with the divide, brought us to a brook, crossing which we stood on the side of Mt. Anderson ; and an easy climb of 5 hr. placed us upon its summit. It is wooded nearly over the summit, but a projecting ledge on the S. W. affords a grand view, comprising the peaks from Kiarsarge around to Hale. The view of Carrigain is very hue, but not to be com- pared with that from Lowell. The Last -Branch Valley is, however, shown tar more satisfactorily than from the latter peak, and forms the most charming element in the prospect After an hour's stay, we struck through the woods to Mt. Lowell, which peak we gained in \ hr. from Anderson, the walking being wonderfully good. Lowell is also wooded on the highest point ; but a horseshoe-shaped clearing extends around the N. side of the peak, by moving around which the view commands nearly the whole horizon, the only peaks invisible being those between Chocorua and Passaconaway. From the projecting ledge on the N. W. side, the view of Carrigain, coming over the profound depths of the Carrigain Notch, is one of the grandest sights in the mountains. The view in this 134 Route &. MT. CARRIGAIN. respect somewhat resembles that from Mt. Willard, but is far more im- posing. The view of other mountains from Lowell is quite satisfactory, all the principal peaks of the White-Mt. district being visible. We spent If hrs. on the summit, and then descended the steep side of the mountain into the Notch, — a trip which, considering its dangerous nature, I would not advise any one to undertake." 42. Mount Carrigain is in the Pemigewasset Forest, between Sawyer's River and the East Branch, the loftiest in a long range of summits, and overlooking many leagues of unbroken wilderness and stately mountains. It is 4,678 ft. high, and its E. spur is 4,419 ft. high. The bold and remarkable architec- ture of this peak makes it an object of great interest, but its remoteness from the roads has rendered it nearly inaccessible to ordinary tourists. Prof. Vose says : " Mt. Carrigain stands almost exactly in the centre of the vast group of the White and Franconia Mts , and. rising as it does to a height of nearly 5,U0U ft , is a marked feature iu the landscape from almost every point of view. Con- versely, the view from Carrigain must embrace the whole mountain mass, and must sweep around over all the principal summits Rar.ges and notches, huge mountains and broad valleys, never seen from the points commonly visited in this region, are spread all around. From its central position a better idea of the arrange- ment of the White and Franconia Mts. is had than from any other point, perhaps, in the whole group." Recent improvements have rendered it possible to walk from Livermore Station to the summit of Carrigain and back in 7 hours There is a small inn at Livermore Mills, at the end of the lumber railway ; and an Appalachian path runs to the sum- mit. The peak, once " so grand and so remote," has been conquered even by ladies. It is 6 M from the mills to the summit, and 6 M. from the mills to Upper Bartlett. The summit of Carrigain consists of a narrow ridge several rods long, covered with a forest of low spruce-trees, which spoil the view except for such as are willing to climb among the branches. To the E., 300 ft. lower, is a knob-like peak whose summit is more clear, and affords a broad view. More to the S., and running at right angles with the main ridge, is a long stony spur 240 ft. below the peak, bending to the W. of the great ravine, and marked by a signal-pole set in a pile of stones. The vicinity of this beacon is the best point for obtaining a general view to the X., E., and S., the W. being covered by the main ridge. The depressions between the forest-covered peak and the knob to the E. and the Signal Ridge on the S. are inconsiderable, and may be easily traversed. Sur- veyor Crawford intends to have the summit-ridge cleared, and that would open one of the noblest view-points in the mountains. Vose's Spur makes out to the E., partially enclosing a singular trilateral ravine, which is con- spicuously seen from Mt. Washington. On the W. is a long ridge, run- ning towards Mt. Hancock, Avith lofty cliffs on its sides, looking down into the deep gorge on the S. W. The favorite route of ascent, until the R. R. and roads were built, was up Sawyer's River, leaving the Saco road at Lawrence's farm, and going up Sawyer's for about 2 M. to Duck-Pond Stream, the first brook coming in MT. CARRIGAIN. Route 42. 135 on the r. Ascending the latter for about \\ M., the course is next laid due W. for | M., by a line of blazed trees, to the Carrigain Brook, whose bed is followed upward for about 2 hrs. An old camp is here reached, where the heavier baggage may be left. It is about two hours' march from this point to the summit, and the route is exceedingly steep, rising over 3,600 ft. The early parties ascended the W. fork of the Carrigain Brook, over successive steps of granite, where every mu-cle was called into play; but now a less dangerous route is followed, through the woods. The ascent is long and arduous, on whichever side it may be attempted. A railroad has been built 2-3 M. up the valley of Sawyer's River, to bring out lumber from the forest; and much of the labor of the approach may be obviated by walking up the track to the Carrigain Brook. John 0. Cobb has been a competent guide for previous parties. He lives in Upper Bartlett, not far from Sawyer's Rock. The Editor has made the ascent by another route, which, however, cannot be rec- ommended. Leaving his camp, in the ravine of the brook which flows between Carrigain and Hancock, on the S W. of the former peak, the stream was followed until the main ridge was encountered, and its W. slope was ascended to the summit. The journey occupied about 4 hours, and 2 hours were taken for the descent from the Signal Ridge. The ascent is for the most part through a forest of tall spruce and fir trees, affording good walking-ground and plenty of water well up the moun- tain. The long ridge which runs S. from the main peak to Sawyer*.-- River would afford an easier mode of access but for the lack of water along the route. Mr. Warren Upham gives the following directions for the ascent from the Pemige- wasset Forest : "Leave Cedar Brook at its fork 1 M. from the East Branch, and steer straight for the summit. The ascent by this way is an almost straight, regular slope ; no undergrowth exists for any part of the way : and under foot for most of the distance is the abundant mountain-moss."' See Boston Times, Sept. 12, 1880, for account of a bad failure on this route Something probably wrong in our directions. The mountain was named in honor of Philip Carrigain, who was born at Concord in 1772 and died there in 1842. He was a graduate of Dartmouth College, and a lawyer ; and was Secretary of State from 1805 to 1810. His most notable work was the map of New Hampshire, which he published in 1816- The White-Mt. Club, of Portland, has made this peak one of its chief objects of attack. * The View. — The valley of the Saco is a little S. of E. from Mt. Carri- gain, and the yellow sands of the river-bed form a wide band through the green plains. The clearings of Upper Bartlett open down the valley, and Hart's Ledge crops up on the 1. Well down the opening is the high gable of Kiarsarge, and the saddle-like summit of Tremont is nearer at hand. Over it is the ragged sky-line of Moat Mt, with Mt. Table and Bear Mt. to the r. over Haystack, and the Green Hills over the N. slope. The high, long crest of Chocorua looms up on the S. E. over the farms in the Albany Intervale. S. S. E. about 5 M. is the plateau of Green's Cliff, over which is Mt. Paugus. To the r. of Paugus successively follow Pas- saconaway (with the Ossipee Range beyond), Whiteface, and the saw- edged Tripyramid, next to which is the tall blue ridge of Sandwich Dome. To the r. of the deep Mad-River Notch, in which the Greeley Ponds are hidden, are the peaks of Osceola and Tecumseh, running out to the S. W. into Green Mt. and Fisher's Mt. Close at hand in the W. are the heavy and characterless mounds of Hancock, near which in the field of vision, 136 Route 42. MT. CARRIGAIN. but really far beyond, is Moosilauke. Then come the Coolidge and Potash Mts., near the confluence of the Pemigewasset and the E. Branch, with the formidable line of peaks called Mts. Flume, Liberty, and Lincoln. Between Flume and Lincoln is the more distant crest of Mt. Kinsman; and the serrated crags of Lafayette are seen over Owl's Head, which is between the Franconia and Lincoln Branches. In the foreground, and ex- tending for many leagues in every direction, is the broad wilderness of the Pemigewasset Forest, including the valleys of the E. Branch and its trib- utaries. This trackless and virgin forest is the cradle of the Merrimac Eiver, and contains neither road nor house nor clearing. Beyond, and to the r. of Lafayette, is the well-proportioned Garfield, and then come Mts. Bond and Guyot and the Twin-Mt. group, with Mt. Ha'e on their r. down the New-Zealand Notch. Farther down the Notch is the blue swell of Cherry Mt., and then come Mts. Tom, Field, and Willey, the latter bearing steep ledges on its S. slope. A section of the striped flank of Mt. Webster is seen W of Willey, over which is Mt. Jefferson, with Pleasant at the 1. slope. W. of Jefferson, up the White- Mt. Notch and Ammonoosuc Valley are Mts. Mitten and Dartmouth, lowly in comparison. Mt. Washington looms up pi*e-eminently in the N E , and is succeeded by the blue crown of Carter. Farther S. and nearer are the reddish-yellow ledges on Mt. Resolution and Giant's Stairs, over which are Mts. Eastman and Baldface. Below is the slide-scarred slope of Mt. Lowell, walling on the E. the profound chasm of the Carriga ; n Notch. A little N. of E., above the Saco Valley, are the white ledges on Iron Mt., with the sister-knobs of Double-Head beyond. Still nearer is Mt. Lang- don, over Upper Bartlett, with white ledges near the top, and then the eye follows again down the shaggy valley of Sawyer's River to the fairer plains of the Saco. The Carrigain Notch is a deep pass between Mts. Carrigain and Low- ell, 2,465 ft. above the sea, offering the best route for a road from the Saco Valley to the Pemigewasset Forest. In some respects this is the finest pass in the White Mts., the peaks on either side being lofty and well marked, while the falling lines of Carrigain are full of grace and beauty. Prof. Vose says: tl The slopes of these two mountains in Carrigain Notch are more imposing, both on account of their exceeding steepness and of their great height, than any others yet described in the White Mts." Un- fortunately, the gorge is filled with tall and sturdy trees, which obscure the view of the adjacent ranges; so that it is better comprehended from the bare ledges above. A fine distant view is enjoyed from Mt. Chocorua; and Mt. Tremont also commands a good prospect into this wild pass. The Carrigain Notch is visited by following up the main stream of the Carrigain Brook, which rises in the upper part of the great hollow and flows S. E. into Sawver's River. It is not more than 3 M. from the rail- THE CRAWFORD GLEN. Route 43. 137 road up Sawyer's River to the centre of the Notch, but the route is diffi- cult to traverse. 43. The Crawford Glen. Bemis Station. This rich centre of mountain scenery lies nearly in the centre of Hart's Location, a political division which includes the Saco Valley from Saw- yer's Rock to the Crawford House, a distance of 12| M., with an average width of about 1 M. (population, 26). The glen is between the mountains of the Crawford group on the E., and the Nancy Range on the W., and was formerly occupied by valuable intervales which have been nearly ruined by slides and avalanches from Mt. Crawford. Nancy's Brook here enters the Saco from the W. At Bemis station is the Bemis cottage. About the year 1810, Samuel Bemis. a poor boy, walked from Vermont to Boston. Ho became the leading dentist there, and amassed a lareo fortune. From 1827 to 1840 he spent everv summer at the White Mts. : and in 1840 he moved here perma- nently. Having loaned large sums to N. T P. Davis, on mortgage, he was obliged to foreclose, and so came into possession of a vast tract of woodlands, including miles of the Notch. This eccentric old patriarch of the mountains died in 1881, alter bequeathing his great estate to George W. Morey, who had long superintended it. Near the station is the old Mt. -Crawford House, long since closed to the public. While N. T. P. Davis kept this house, he opened the long path to Mt. Washington over the Montalban Ridge (see page 225). The site of the Mt.-Crawford House was occupied before the year 1800 by Abel Crawford, who had married Capt. Rosebrook*s daughter. He died at the age of 85. " He had been so long accustomed to greet travellers in the summer, that he longed to have his life spared till the visitors made their appearance in Bartlett, on their way to the Notch. He used to sit in the warm spring days, supported by his daugh- ter, his snow-white hair falling to his shoulders, waiting for the first ripple of that large tide which he had seen increasing in volume for 20 years. Not long after the stages began to carry their summer freight by his door, he passed away." " Here the mountains assumed the form of an immense amphitheatre ; elliptical in its figure ; from 12 to 15 M. in length ; from 2 to 4 in breadth ; and crowned with summits of vast height and amazing grandeur. Compared with this scene, all human works of this nature, that of Titus particularly, so splendidly described by Gibbon, are diminished into toys and gewgaws. Here more millions could .'it than hundreds there : every one of whom might look down with a full view of the valley beneath." (D.vigut's Travels in New England.) There are picturesque bits of water-scenery (difficult of access) on the Davis Brook, 1 M. N. of Bemis Station; and 1 M. farther N. is the Bemis Brook, on which are the superb Arethusa Falls (see Route 49). Bemis Pond is 6- 8 M. S S. W. of the station, in the wilderness beyond Mt. Tremont. It was formerly frequented by trout-fishers, who found good sport there. A spotted line leads in to the pond from the Saco road. Nancy's Bridge is on the highway h M. S. of Bemis Station, and crosses Nancy's Brook, which here traverses a rocky canon, 200 ft. long, 16-20 ft. wide, and 25 - 35 ft. deep. This fine gorge was formed by the decom- position of a trap-dike and the subsequent disintegration of the enclosing 138 Route 44. MOUNT CRAWFORD. granite walls by water freezing in its seams. Nancy's Brook comes from a small pool 2-3 M. distant on the side of Mt. Nancy, and forms several pretty cascades on the way. The bridge, brook, and mountain derive their names from a sad incident in the early history of the country. In the autumn of 1788, a young woman by the name of Nancy was employed in Col. Whipple's family at Jefferson, and became engaged to one of the men on the farm. She gave him her two-years' wages when they were about to depart for Portsmouth to be married, but he started away during her ab- sence, leaving no explanation. On her return at night she set out after him, hoping to catch the recreant lover in camp at the Notch, before the dawn. The ground was covered with snow, and the route for 30 M. lay through the forest, marked only by a line of spotted trees. She reached the camp, but it was abandoned, and after vainly striving to rekindle the smouldering fire, she pressed on down the Notch, fording the icy Saco in several places, and at last sank down in utter exhaustion on the S. bank of Nancy's Brook, where she was speedily chilled to death. The bitter northwest wind had driven blinding masses of snow upon her ; her clothing had become saturated in fording the streams ; and she was found stiff and cold, with her head resting on her staff. The men at Col. \Vhipple"s had doubted that she would face the storm, but, becoming alarmed at her long absence, they followed the trail and found her, not long after her death. On learning of her dauntless faith and terrible fate, her lover became insane, and died, a few years later, in fearful par- oxysms ; and there is a tradition that long afterwards these valleys resounded on still nights with the weird and agonizing shrieks of his restless ghost. 44. Mount Crawford is 3,134 ft. high, and is the lowest but most alpine of the peaks of the Crawford group. It rises boldly from the Saco Valley, near the inflowing of the Mt. -Washington River and Sleeper Brook, and exhibits a broad gulf on the side towards Bemis Station. A ridge runs S. from Crawford along the E. side of the Saco Valley to Hart's Ledge, around which the river bends to the E. The peak of Ml. Hope is on this line, and is over 2,000 ft. high. The upper parts of Crawford are covered with broad red ledges, which x-ender it easily recognizable from afar. The rock is rapidly disin- tegrating and forming beds of gravel. The peak is high and steep, espe- cially on the E., where it is nearly precipitous, though by no means so phenomenally beetling as the picture in The White Hills (page 15) would indicate. The peaks of the Crawford group are reached by means of the wreck of the old Davis bridle-path. This route has been so long abandoned that Nature has reclaimed considerable portions of it, and the visitor will sometimes be perplexed by patches of jungle and rank bushes. It is, however, more difficult to follow the path on its higher grades, because there it ran over a long series of ledges, leaving but slight traces, and the rocks themselves have since become disintegrated. The outlet of the trail on the Saco meadows is very obscure, and can only be found b} T local assistance or by a keen-eyed forester. It is reached by fording the river on the stones, the Saco being here wide and shallow, but after heavy rains it is impassable for the pedestrian. If the path can be found and retained through the woods it will be of great assistance, not only as showing the MOUNT CRAWFORD. Route 44. 139 most direct way, but also as affording a clear track through the thickets, and an even grade over the ledges. At some points it was constructed at considerable expense, being terraced out along the sides of steep banks. The path passes to the r. of and about ^ M. from the peak of Crawford; traverses the depression towards Resolution; winds around the W. and N. W. flanks of the latter; passes through the ravine to the Giant's Stairs; and ascends their terraces on the S. W. side. In ordinary weather this is a dry mountain, having no water on its upper slopes, and visitors will therefore need to carry potables with them. Just after rains, enough water may be found in the hollows of the rocks near the summit. The mountain was burnt over about the year 1815, and even the soil was destroyed. Mts. Crawford, Resolution, and Giant's Stairs received their names from Dr. S. A. Bemis, who has named more of the mountains than has any other man. * The View. — Nearly N. W., and about 5 M. distant, is the high and alpine peak of Mt. Willey, fronted with crags, and falling steeply to the S. A small portion of Willard is seen to the r., and then the eye crosses the broad ravine of the Mt.-Washington River to the S. W. peaks of the Presi- dential Range, of which Webster is on the I., and the low crests of Jackson and Clinton follow. The bulging dome of Pleasant is due N., and is fol- lowed to the r. by Franklin and Monroe, beyond which the range cul- minates in the lofty crest of Washington, with the flat Boott's Spur on the r. Under the r. flank of Washington, and about lh M. from Crawford, are the poorly outlined terraces of the Giant's Stairs, on whose r., and adjoining Crawford on the N. E., is the higher aud flattened top of Reso- lution, which shuts out the view in that direction. On its S. is the dark Mt. Parker. Mt. Kiarsarge i6 finely seen on the E. S. E., below the highlands of Jackson, and down the Rocky-Branch glen. On its r. are the Green Hills of Conway, over which, far away, is Mt. Pleasant, in Maine, with its summit-hotel. The view next includes Mts. Langdon and Pickering, beyond which, on the r., is the high red peak of Moat Mt. S. S. E., over the plateau of Table Mt., is the stately white spire of Chocorua, reaching the sky-line. Nearly S., and close at hand, is the low cone of Mt. Hope, and the glens of Upper Bartlett are seen to the 1., with the little hamlet near their centre. Farther away is the long dark ridge of Bear Mt., far beyond which, due S., is a part of the blue Ossipee Range. Pas- saconaway is a high black hemisphere, about S. S. W. ; and over the near white knobs of Tremont is the distant Whiteface, nearly obscured by Passaconaway. To the r. is the serrated ridge of Tripyramid, uplift- ing three well-marked peaks, on whose r , far distant, are the crests of Tecumseh and Osceola. In the foreground is the pleasant Crawford glen, with the buildings about Bemis Station, and the winding river still nearer. The dark-green Mt. Nancy rises just across the glen, and behind it are Anderson and Lowell, with the triple head of the lofty Carrigain still more to the 140 Route 45. MOUNT RESOLUTION. W. S. W. To the W. is the high plateau which borders the Pemigewasset Forest on the E., over which looms the distant sierra of Lafayette, beyond the monotonous Twin Range. Across the Saco Valley is the abrupt front of the Frankenstein Cliff, beyond which rises Mt. Willey. "On the top of Mt. Crawford the spectator, without moving from his station, commands the whole circumference of the horizon, and a series of views the most varied and interesting On the E , a little S , is the conical summit of Kiarsarge, ia the S. the rough Chocorua, with it* remarkable four-toothed summit, the peak to the r. sharply pyramidal, and much higher than the others. To the W., the great ranges of the unbroken wilderness To the N. W.,the fine view of the Willey Mt. and the Notch. To the N., the whole S. W. range of the White Mts., their summits, ridges, and sides clear and distinct, Mt. Washington being about 10 M. distant. To the N.E.,at a short distance, the curious and most striking Stair Mt.,with its two immense and regular steps. At the E., close at hand, are the bare and most deso- late sides of Mt Resolution, the brown crumbling granite wearing away so fast that no vegetation can obtain a hold upon its surface, which is strewn here and there with a dreary chaos of fallen timber, the effect of the fires which have laid bare the mountain. On the W., beneath your feet, in the valley below, is the Mt -Crawford House, and the clearing, with its orchards and meadows, with the line of the road, and the shining river." (Oakes's White-Bit. Scenery.) 45. Mount Resolution is 3,400 ft. high, and consists of a lofty plateau, flanked by decomposing red ledges, and separated from Crawford and the Giant's Stairs by narrow and shallow ravines. The summit is covered with dense thickets of dwarf trees, through which are occasional lane-like openings, not broad enough, however, to give connected views. In some places are beds of red gravel, which have been formed by the rapid disintegration of the ledges. Among the thickets many bear-signs are seen, and water is found on the N. slope. The mountain was named by Dr. Bemis, because when Davis had com- pleted his path to this point he became discouraged, but afterwards as- cended hither and made a resolution to carry it through to Mt. Wash- ington. The march from Crawford to Resolution takes about 1$ hrs. , and may be entered upon by descending the precipitous side of Crawford to the E., striking the old bridle-path, if possible, in the deep hollow beyond, toward the slope of Resolution. The easiest way to get to the top is to keep along the path to a point where a long red slide comes down on the r., and then ascend the line of rocks and gravel. The walking is not so good as on the wooded slopes, but there are no anpoying bushes. The only satisfactory v : ew-point on Resolution is the rocky ridge to the N. N. E., over the Rocky Branch, and fronting towards the Giant's Stairs. A pole has been erected here, on a pile of stones. This point may be reached by keeping around on the half-obliterated path beyond the trav- ersing slide, to the ridge where it descends towards the Giant's Stairs. The View. — Across the ravine to the N. are the fine terraces of the Giant's Stairs, all of which are seen, with high precipices fronting them, over which the pre-eminent cone of Washington appears. To the r. is the depression of the Pinkham Notch, W. of which are the blue MOUNT GIANT'S STAIRS. Route 40. HI highlands of Alts. Wild-Cat, Carter, Cai-ter Dome, and the distant Moriah. Farther to the r. is the crest of Royce, before which are the white crags of Baldface. In this direction are the wooded heights of Alts. Sable and Eastman; and the twin mamelons of Double-Head are about E., to the r. of which is Thorn Alt. The view now passes down the Rocky-Branch glen to Iron Alt., whose light-hued ledges are under the double pyramids of Alt. Gemini, on whose r. is the queenly Kiarsarge. Still more remote is Alt. Pleasant, in Alaine, with a hotel on its ridge; and the Aloat range is next seen. The view to the S. is closed by the woods on the main ridge of Resolu- tion, which rise up close at hand. Beyond this intrusive curtain, portions of Carrigain and the Nancy Range are seen in the W. S. W., and farther £p the r., over the edge of the Pemigewasset Forest, are the long and mas- sive Mts. Bond and Guyot and the Twin Alts., with Lafayette beyond. Farther to the r. is the sharp point of Willey, beyond which the S. W. presidential peaks are seen, Webster on the 1., then the low point of Jack- son, Clinton's level top, Pleasant's gray hemisphere, the narrow terrace of Franklin, and the double crest of Alonroe, resting against Washington. 46. Mt. Giant's Stairs is 3,500 ft. high, and derives its name from two remarkable step-like ter- races near its summit, which present the semblance of colossal stairs when seen from distant points. They appear to be cut with great regularity and sharpness of outline, the uppermost being 130 ft. high, and the second 200 ft. They fall off on the S. E. to the Rocky-Branch glen. Giant's Stairs may be reached from Bemis Station by the old Davis path (if it can be found and followed), which ascends to the summit from the S. W., and is thence prolonged over the Alontalban Ridge to Mt. Wash- ington (see Route 89). The mountain has been visited from Jackson by way of Littlefield's, 4-5 M. dis- tant, over Iron Mt. The ascent of the lower stair is along a steep gully, over loose and friable rock ; and the clamber up the top stair is at an angle of G0 C , requiring one to pull himself up by the shrubs. The following are the times made on this route by a recent party: leave Littlefield"s at 9 a. M. ; at confluence of Rocky Branch and Sfcair-Mt. Brook, 9 50; at foot of stairs, 12.30; on summit, 1 20 : left summit, 2.15; reach Littlefield's, 5.45. Paul Hayes was the guide. The View to the N. is shut out by dense spruce woods, and on the S. is the high swell of Alt. Resolution, hiding most of the Bartlett glen But fine prospects open out on the E. and W., extending from Alt. Pleasant, near Sebago Lake, to Aloosilauke, near the Connecti:ut River. The Guide-Book party was within 1 AI. of the summit of the Stairs, when it was forced to retreat, on account of a deficiency in its commissariat. So that the view cannot be described here, and it can only be said that the Giant's Stairs are visible from Alts. Wild -Cat, Carter Dome, Moriah, 142 Route 47. THE WILLEY HOUSE. Baldface, Double-Head, Thorn, Kiarsarge, Iron, Pleasant (Maine), Moat, Chocorua, Tremont, Passaconaway, Whiteface, Tripyramid, Osceola, Moosilauke, Carrigain, the Twins, Lafayette, Willej^, and the S. W. peaks of the Presidential Range. 47. The Willey House is about 3 M. from the Crawford House, through the Notch, and is much visited on account of the tragedy of 1*26. The house inhabited by the Willeys is the low building attached to the N. end of the main white house, which is kept as a cheap tavern. Visitors are escorted through the old house, on payment of a small fee, but ihey will see nothing of inter- est. In the rear is the remnant of the great rock which sheltered the house by splitting the avalanche in its course toward it; and the track of the slide may easily be ascended for a considerable distance beyond, through a scattered forest of birch-trees. Below the house is a pile of stones Avhich shows where the bodies of several of the Willeys were found. There is now but little danger of slides from Mt. Willey, since its side is stripped nearly to the bed-rock; but on the opposite side of the valley is Mt. Webster, whence immense rocks dash downward during storms, with a terrific roaring and crashing. True lovers of nature will find more of in- terest in the majestic mountains which environ this glen than in the sen- sational element attaching to the house. The view of the splendid cliff on the sides of Mt. Willard (to the N.) is of extreme beauty, the Notch being apparently blockaded by its heavy mass. The view from near the Willey House is thus described in Oakes's White-Mt. Scenery : " The Willey Mt. is the highest, but its summit is not seen from be- low ; and although gloomy and grand, with its high ledges and deep slides, it is less striking than Mt. Webster, which is among the most unique and magnificent objects of the White Mts. This vast and regular mass rises abruptly from the plain below, to the height of about 2,000 ft : its shape is that of a high fort with steep scarped sides, its immense front apparently wholly inaccessible. Its top, nearly horizontal, and rough with precipitous crags, jots over with heavy and frowning brows. So mighty a mountain wall, so high, so wide, so vast, and so near the spectator that all itsgiganiic proportions are seen with the utmost distinctness; it fills at once the eye and (he mind with awe, admiration, and delight. In a bright day , when its out- line at top is seen sharp and distinct against the blue sky, its gray granite cliffs and ledges colored with iron brown, or stained with darker shades, its sides seamed with long gullied slides of brown giavel, its wide beds of great loose rocks, black with lichens, contrasted with the summer green or varied autumnal colors of the trees, make it as beautiful and interesting in its various hues and parts, as it is great and sublime in its total impression." The Willey House was built in 1793 (some say in 1820"), as a public house on the Coos road ; and in 1825 it was occupied bv Samuel Willey, Jr., and his family. In June, 1826, two slides fell off the flank of Mt. Willey, near the house, premonitory of the coming disaster. A long drought ensued through the months of July and August, followed by a S. wind which heaped immense masses of clouds upon the mountains. On the night of the 28th of August a deluge of rain fell, washing out the sides of the ridges,"flooding the valleys, and inflicting great damage in all the adjacent towns. Barflett, Conway, and Gilead alike suffered; all the Saco bridges were swept away ; and the Ammonoosuc was swollen to ten times its usual widlh. THE NOTCH. Route 48. 143 The first traveller who afterwards forced his way through the chaotic ruin in the Notch found tiie Willey House deserted, with the door3 unclosed and the Bible lying open on the table. He gave the alarm in Conway, and the people who came up found the bodies of Mr. and Mrs. Willey, two of their children, and two hired men, buried in the slide and sadly mutilated. The bodies of the other three children were never recovered. It is supposed that the family left the house in apprehension of the ris- ing floods of the Saco, and retreated to a point farther up on the # mountain, where they were overtaken by the avalanche and swept away to a fearful and united death. Had they remained in the house, they would have been safe, for it was not moved by the water, and the slide parted at a great rock behind it and reunited below, leaving the house intact. A theory has been advanced to the effect that the fatal slide was caused, not by a heavy rain-storm, but by the breaking of massive clouds on the ridges of Mt. Willey. Three chapters are devoted to this catastrophe in Rev. B. Gr. Willey's History of the White Mts. ; and T. W. Parsons has commemorated it in a ballad of 40 stanzas. See also N. H. Hist. Colls., Vol. III. 48. The White-Mountain Notch is a deep pass through the mountains, dividing the great New-Hampshire group near its centre. The Notch proper is somewhat less than 3 M. long, extending from the Gate to a little below the Willey House; and lies be- tween Mts. Willard and Willey on the W. and Mts. Webster and Jackson on the E. The valley from Lower Bartlett to the Willey House is narrow, and mountain-ranges rise boldly on either side, thus forming an appropri- ate approach to the narrower gorge beyond. The highest point in the Notch is 1,914 ft. above the sea, and the massive walls are visible for 2,000 ft. above, the peaks being still higher, but generally out of sight. The Willey House being 1,323 ft. high, the road rises nearly 600 ft. in about 2 M. The bottom of the defile is occupied by the impetuous Saco River, which main- tains a long and steady descent, through and about masses of boulders and the rent rocks of old avalanches. The turnpike is on the E. side of the river for 1^ M., where it crosses the Black-Camp Bridge. The railroad crosses the turnpike at grade near Bemis Station, and then commences the ascent, being elevated on artificial terraces along the W. walls. At the Willey House it is several hundred feet above the turnpike. The magnifi- cent scenery of the Notch can be seen to much better advantage from the railroad than from the old highway, which is generally overhung with trees and masked in thick woods. One of the finest view-points in the Notch is a little over 1 M. from the Crawford House, where the bases of Mts. Willard, Webster, and Willey approach each other. The descent through the Notch is said to give a more marked impression of its grandeur than the ascent. Dwight says: '• The first £ M. is a mere chasm between ruptured cliffs. The remainder is a vast ravine." The course of the road is nearly E of S. " When we entered the Notch we were struck with the wild and solemn appearance of everything before us. The scale, on which all the objects in view were formed, was the scale of grandeur only. The rocks, rude and ragged in a manner rarely paralleled, were fashioned and piled on each other by a hand operating only in the boldest and most irregular manner. As we advanced, these appearances increased rapidly. Huge masses of granite, of every abrupt form, and hoary with a mosa 144 Route 48. THE NOTCH. which seemed the product of ages, recalling to the mind the Saxum vetustum of Virgil, speedily rose to a mountainous height. Before us, the view widened fast to the S E. Behind us, it closed almost instantaneously ; and presented nothing to the eye but an impossible barrier of mountains." (Dwght's Tiavels in N Ertg.) " Descending the river, the mountains in some places seem to close before you, and meet together. In other places their bare sides, scarred with avalanches, rise perpendicularly at first, then, receding, swell into rugged pinnacles, with projecting crags on either side, which nod over the bleak ridges underneath, threatening to burst from the gigantic mounds and crush the lower walls that surround them. The Saco has now swelled to a maddening torrent, and thunders down the chasm with a fierce roar and a wild echo After struggling through the mountains, the river issues, with a calm flow, upon the plain below : and scarcely can the country furnish a more pleasant vale than that which borders the slow-winding current of the Saco in the towns of Conway and Fryeburg." (Barstow's Hist, of N. H.) " The craggy sides of these giant-hills are seamed aud furrowed by innumerable avalanches, which, during the last few years, have hurled headlong down their destructive masses of earth, stones, rocks, and trees, into the terrific-looking glen below. With these the river was literally choked up, exhibiting altogether such a picture of universal devastation as I never beheld even among the very wildest mountains of Switzerland. Had I wished to behold the most striking emblem of the general deluge that once swept over the earth, I could not have witnessed any where such fearful traces of ravage and appalling chaos as the scene displayed." (Tudor) Autumn in the Notch.— The splendor of the autumnal scene portrayed here by President Dwight in 1797 is still annually presented to tourists through this pass. " The darkness of the evergreens was finely illumined by the brilliant yellow of the birch, the beech, and the cherry, and the more brilliant orange and crimson of the maple. The effect of this universal diffusion of gay and splendid light was to render the preponderating deep-green more solemn. The mind encircled by this scenery irresistibly remembered that the light was the light of decay, autumnal and melancholy. The dark was the bloom of evening, approximating to night. Over the whole, the azure of the sky cast a deep, misty blue; blending, toward the summits, every other hue; and predominating over all. As the eye ascended these steeps, the light decayed, and gradually ceased. On the inferior summits rose crowns of conical firs, and spruces. On the superior eminences, the trees, growing less and less, yielded to the chilling atmosphere, and marked the limit of forest vegetation. Above, the surface was covered with a mass of shrubs, terminating, at a still higher elevation, in a shroud of dark-colored moss " Hear also Starr King : " The only way to appreciate the magnificence of the au- tumnal forest scenery in New England is to observe it on the hills. I never before had a conception of its gorgeousness. The appearance of the mountain-sides as we wound between them and swept by, was as if some omnipotent magic had been busy with the landscape. It was hard to assure one's self that the cars had not been switched off into fairy -land, or that our eyes had not been dyed with the hues of the rainbow. No dream could have had more brilliant or fantastic drapery. Now we would see acres of the most gaudy yellow heaped upon a hillside : soon a robe of scarlet and yellow would grace the proportions of a stalwart sentinel of the valleys ; here and there a rocky and naked giant had thrown a brilliant scarf of saffron and gold about his loins and across his shoulders ; and frequently a more sober moun- tain, with aristocratic and unimpeachable taste, would stand out, arrayed from chin to feet in the richest garb of brown, purple, vermilion, and straw-color, tem- pered by large spots of heavy and dark evergreen. It did not seem possible that all these square miles of gorgeous carpeting and brilliant upholstery had been the work of one week, and had all been evoked, by the wand of frost, out of the monotonous green which June had flung over nature." Geology of the Notch. — The Notch " has been excavated almost entirely out of granite. It lies near the E. border of the vast sheet of Labrador granites heretofore described, perhaps on the line of eruption. This deep valley exists for the reason that the denuding agents have excavated it out of the softest materials occurring in this vicinity. The summits of Mts. Webster and Willey consist of flinty slates, which resist decomposi- THE NOTCH. Route 48. 145 tion much more steadfastly than the intervening granite. A climb up both these mountains shows that the granite extends nearly to their sum- mits. In descending, one finds an abundance of loose, friable rocks, in- clined at the greatest angle possible for such materials. These fragments accumulate gradually through the action of frost, and, under favorable circumstances, when rendered pasty by abundant rains, make a kind of plastic material, which slides to the bottom of the valley, where the river disintegrates it still further, and carries it towards Conway. The plains below Bartlett are largely composed of the fragments brought down from this narrow valley The Saco Valley below ML Webster is lower, because the walls are composed entirely of this softer rock, and have yielded read- ily to the forces of disintegration." (Prof. C. H. Hitchcock.) History of the Notch. — The White-Mt Notch was known to the Indians of the adjacent valleys, but was probably rarely used by thein on account of their super- stitious dread of the mountains. It is claimed, however, that certain war-parties of Canadian Indians, returning from successful forays on the New-England coast, carried their captives and plunder through this pass. In the spring of 1746 an Indian war-party fell upon Gt>rham, Me., and took several prisoners, one of whom described their march to Canada by the way of the Saco River and through the White-Mt. Notch (Hist, of Gorham, p. 51) It was first made known to the Eng- lish in 1771, by Timothy Nash, a border hunter, who, being in pursuit of a moose which eluded him, climbed a tree on Cherry Mt., iu hopes to see his game, and was surprised to discover a deep pass cloven through the mountains. He sp?ed- ily reconnoitred the Notch, and passed down the Saco River through the gorge, going on to Portsmouth, where he informed Gov. Wcntworth of his happy discov- ery. Wishing to test the value of the pass as a route of commerce, Wentworth re- quested him to bring a horse through it from Lancaster, offering as a reward in case of success the tract now called Nash and Sawyer's Location, extending from the Gate of the Notch to a point beyond the Fabyan House, and including 2,184 acres. Nash associated with himself a fellow-pioneer by the name of Sawyer, by whose aid he lowered the unfortunate horse over the cliffs and drove him through the rocky river until they emerged at Conway. A road was soon built here " with the neat proceeds of a confiscated estate,"' and a direct route was formed between the coast and the upper Cobs country, which had previously .been accessible only by a long detour around the S. side of the mountains. The first article of merchandise carried through from Lancaster was a barrel of tobacco ; and the first freight up from the coast was a barrel of whiskey, most of which was consumed on the way, kl tnrough the politeness of those whohelped to manage the affair." In 1803 the Tenth N. H. Turnpike was built through the Notch, at an expense (for 20 M.) of $40,000. Nash and Sawyer, with the usual improvidence of hunters, speedily squandered the proceeds of their grant, and were forced to seek the forest again. The ancient county-road crossed the Saco '.Jl times during the ascent of the val- ley, and was a singular specimen of highway engineering. The Tenth Turnpike was the avenue of an immense amount of travel, until the construction of the rail- roads into the mountain-region, and received profitable tolls. It is possible that portions of it will now be discontinued, since the adjacent railroad serves all pur- poses of freight and passengers, and the rattling six-horse stages, with their loads of merry tourists, have vanished from the Notch road. The Tenth Turnpike was more skilfully constructed than its predecessor, having but four bridges between the Crawford House and Conway, — the Black-Camp Bridge, H M. S. of the Crawford House; the Deep-Hole and Pleasant-River Bridges, 2-3 M. S. E. of the Willey House ; and the bridge near the inflowing of the Rocky Branch. 145 a Route 48. THE NOTCH. In the old Mt.-Crawford House at Bemis, Webster, Everett, Choate, and President Pierce were guests, when visiting this region fishing. The Frankenstein Cliff was named by Dr. Bemis, in honor of his artist friend Geo. L. Frankenstein, who began to visit this region before 1850, and revisited it in 1886. Mrs. Blake writes thus: "If, added to this natural impulse of spiritual buoyancy, there should come the material uplift that belongs to an ap- proach toward the mountains from the seashore, every condition of health- fulness and fitness is satisfied at once. The soul must be warped indeed that can bear the delicious sense of being upborne amid rarer things that comes with the gradual ascent into a hill country, without some correspond- ing feeling of elevation. The first glimpse of those mystic, wondrous heights, on the earth yet not of it, fill the spirit naturally with longing and delight. They are the embodied aspirations of a lower toward a higher world, — solemn, like all heaven-climbing thought, and like it beau- tiful also. Everything helps the illusion of escape from mere earthlinesa and the common ways of humanity. We go on and up. First the busy centres of toil and industry melt out of sight and hearing, then the frugal but thrifty life of the country town and hard-won comfort of the farming district. Little by little the signs of human occupation lessen and fade; the lovely intervales, peaceful and fair as pauses in a prayer, disappear ; and the panting spirit which is bearing one on begins to climb, with the afternoon light, through the lonesome loveliness of the interlacing moun- tain sides toward the infinite majesty of the silent sunlit peaks beyond. " If one could choose, the best time for this royal progress would be upon a day marked upon the weather clerk's chart for 'local rains.' Then one passes through alternate glamour of shade and sunshine. The soft, tan- talizing mist half hides, half reveals, some coveted beauty; a sudden shower bathes the earth in tears as deceptive as those of April, and as suddenly vanishes in airy melting rainbows over the brow of Chocorua. Farther up the cafion the cliffs, as they rise more and more steeply, darkle and smile under the changing clouds ; the mountain streams sparkle in straying gleams, the laboring train passes with a roar over the Franken- stein trestle and by the Giant Stairs, the cloud-crowned brow of Wash- ington lifts itself in serene majesty above the heads of its companions, and here are the recesses of the everlasting hills. Willey and Webster rise on either hand, awful and sombre; the precipice of Willard lifts its impassive front as if to deny further approach, and then, with a last shriek of de- fiance that hurtles back in a clangor of echoes from the torn rocks, one passes out of the old world of noise and commonplace into the new king- dom of peace and revelation, — the Happy Valley of Rasselas ! Only now we call it Crawford's. It is almost a relief from the tension of excited imagination when the train stops at the lovely station and the quiet pas- toral beauty of the little valley rests the strained eyes and tired fancy." THE NOTCH. Route 48. 145 6 Grant Allen writes thus, for Longman's Magazine: "The Notch may be taken as a very good specimen of the snowless mountain pass: a deep and narrow gorge or chasm, between two opposite precipitous cliffs, which look, of course, as if they had been ' rent asunder by some terrific con- vulsion of nature ' (quotation from all the guide-books), but have reallv, I need hardly say, been worn down to their present depth by the slow cutting action of the little stream that still feebly trickles down their centre. You can drive through the Notch in a "White-Mountain wagon, if you have a taste for dangerous and adventurous performances. "A pleasanter way of seeing the Notch is to take the rail; for the Port- land and Ogdensburg line runs right through the whole length of the pass, along a narrow ledge cut at a high elevation on the steep, sloping, and land-slipping sides of Mt. Willard and Mt. Willey. Open-air ' ob- servation cars,' with neat wickerwork basket chairs, are attached to the train for this portion of its route ; and the view down into the profound gorge below, with the Saco forming a lost silver thread in its very middle, is certainly most grand and impressive. It reminds one of Killiecrankie, and, in a less degree, of the Val d'Aosta." 14G Route 49. SILVER CASCADE. 49. The Cascades in the Notch. The Flume Cascade is about £ M. from the Crawford House, -where a small brook descends from the mountain on the E. and passes downward to the Saco. Its name is derived from the singular trench through which the stream flows near the bridge, where it is deeply sunken in the channelled ledges. The main cascade is on the I. side, descending the road, and is about 250 ft. high. This point, as well as the Silver Cascade, should be visited just after heavy rains, when the enlarged mountain-torrent leaps over the cliffs in vast white sheets of foam. See the quaint and minute description of the Flume Cascade, given by President Dwight in 1797: " At the distance of % M. from the entrance, we passed a brook, known in this region by the name of the Flume ; from the strong resemblance to that object, exhibited by the channel, which it has worn for a considerable length in a bed of rocks : the sides being perpendicular to the bottom. This elegant piece of water we determined to examine further ; and, alighting from our horses, walked up the acclivity, perhaps a furlong. The stream fell from a height of 240- 250 ft. over three precipices ; the second receding a small distance from the front of the first, and the third from that of the second. Down the first and second, it fell in a single current : and down the third in three, which united their streams at the bottom in a fine basin, formed by the hand of Nature in the rocks, immediately beneath us. It is impossible for a brook of this size to be modelled into more di- versified or more delightful forms ; or for a cascade to descend over precipices, more happily fitted to furnish its beauty. The cliffs, together with a level at their foot, furnished a considerable opening, surrounded by the forest. The sunbeams pene- trating through the trees, painted here a great variety of fine images of light, and edged an equally numerous and diversified collection of shadows; both dancing ou the waters, and alternately silvering and obscuring their course. Purer water was never seen. Exclusively of its murmurs, the world around us was solemn and si- lent. Everything assumed the character of enchantment ; and had I been educated in the Grecian mythology, I should scarcely have been surprised to find an assem- blage of Dryads, Naiads, and Oreads, sporting on the little plain below our feet. The purity of this water was discernible, not only by its limpid appearance, and its taste, but from several other circumstances. Its course is wholly over hard granite ; and the rocks and the stones in its bed, and at its side, instead of being covered with adventitious substances, were washed perfectly clean ; and by their neat ap-- pearance added not a little to the beauty of the scenery." The * Silver Cascade is about 1 M. S. of the Crawford House, and is one of the most graceful falls in the mountains. It is the brightest jewel on the route of the railroad, and is seen with fine effect from the cars. The descent of the brook within 1 M. of advance is over 1,000 ft., the most remarkable falls occurring towards the road. Much of its downward course is in long slides over the smooth surfaces of highly inclined ledges, and these reaches are succeeded by short and nearly perpendicular leaps over steeper rocks. The course of the stream may be ascended as far as the visitor's time and strength allow, but the route is arduous, and in some places perilous. Mt. Webster has been ascended along this stream; and from the midway cliffs good views are given of Mt. Willard and the Hitchcock Flume. The portion seen from the road is about 300 ft. high. Close at hand it falls 20 ft. sharply, and then rushes through a deep flume under the bridge. It is a pleasant place to spend a moonlight hour, when ARETHUSA FALLS. Route 49. 147 the significance of its name is more manifest. The brook dwindles to puny proportions in dry weather, and dribbles over the rocks in weak threads of water. The ponderous massiveness of the mountains on cither side helps to increase the pleasing effect of the scene, when the stream is thundering down whitely, with full banks. The * Ripley Falls. — The stream which crosses the road about 1\ M. below the WiUey House is Cow Brook, which has retained its homely name, though Starr King and Mr. Ripley attempted to christen it Avalanche Brook. A cart-road turns in to the r. near the point where it crosses the highway, leading to a platform on the railroad, across which and a little way to the r. is the beginning of the path to the Ripley Falls. The path is well made and is practicable for ladies. It winds around the upper side of a densely wooded ravine, in which frequent glimpses of the brook are gained. In less than 1 M. the falls are reached, and several good view- points may be chosen in their vicinity, according to the time and wood- craft of the visitor. The cliffs at the head of the ravine are of imposing height and grand proportions. Before taking the final leap the brook falls over several rocky steps, and then passes down the cliff at a high angle, its breadth varying widely according to the rains which have fallen or been withheld. Starr King estimated its height at 150 ft., but a careful meas- urement with an aneroid barometer makes it 108 ft. It is not so high nor so nearly perpendicular as the Arethusa Falls, but has about the same quantity of water. " Mr. Champney, who visited these falls about a fortnight after their discovery, is inclined to ascribe to them a nobler beauty than any others thus far known among the mountains. He describes the picturesque rock-forms as wonderful, and their richness in color and marking, in mosses and lichens, as more admirable than any others he has had the privilege of studying in the mountain region. 1' From 1847 to 1852 Mr. H. W Ripiey was a companion of Abei Crawford, who discov- ered the falls while out on snow-shoes", trapping saMe In 1858 Messrs. Ripley and Por- ter visited them, and named the main fall the Sylvan- Glade Cataract, and the other the Spar/dine, Cascade. The first was re-christened by Starr King, as Ripley Falls. The stream may be ascended for more than 1 M. beyond the Ripley Falls, through primitive woodlands, and by several pretty cascades. Far up its course, near the inflowing of a tributary brook, is another beauti- ful fall, which has been named the Sparkling Cascade. From this point woodsmen cau follow the ridge to the S., behind the Frankenstein Clilf, and strike the Bemis Brook, near the Arethusa Falls. The * Arethusa Falls are on Bemis Brook, which rises N. of Mt. Nancy and passes urder the roads about 2 M. N. of Bemis Station, or 6^ M. S. of the Crawford House. They are only 1 M. from the railroad, though the visitor will think that the distance is nearer 5 M., so rugged and arduous is the route. The only way of approach is by following the stream up- ward, sometimes among the dense thickets on the banks, and sometimes over the rocks near the water. Several pretty cascades are passed, and the forest scenery is beautiful. For long distances the brook glides over 148 Route 50. CRAWFORD HOUSE. nearly level sheets of granite, where the visitor can walk as if on a pave- ment, and then he is forced to cross a chaotic mass of rocks, flanked by bristling thickets. "When within about £ M. of the end, there is a charm- ing fall of about 40 ft., over wide granite ledges. The Arethusa Falls -were discovered by Prof. Tuckerman, many years ago, but have not been visited by a dozen people since, and are v.ellnigh forgotten. They were visited and measured by the Editor and Prof. Huntington, in September, 1875, and then (being nameless) received the provisional name of the Arethusa Falls, in allusion to Shelley's lines : — " Arethusa arose " Her steps paved with green From her couch of snows The downward ravine In the Acroceraunian mountains, — Which slopes to the westward gleams ; From cloud and from crag, And gliding and springing, With many ajsg, She went, ever singing, Shepherding her bright fountains. In murmurs as soft cs sleep. She lenpt down the rocks, The Earth seemed to love her, With her rainbow locks And Heaven smiled above her. Streaming among the streams : And she lingeied towards the deep." The falls are 176 ft. high, and are among the finest in the mountains. They are surrounded by rich and luxuriant forest-scenery, among large old trees and rugged groups of water- worn boulders. The best point of view is about 100 ft. below the falls, where their long white line is seen through the foliage. A nearer approach brings the visitor too much under the cliff to realize its height. It will be seen that the brook leaps almost per- pendicularly over a lofty precipice, and plunges heavily into a deep pool below. An impressive view down the ravine and over the dizzy brink may be obtained by bearing to the 1. through the forest and ascending to the top of the falls. Remembering how the power and sensational effect of the mountain - cascades are enhanced by a large volume of water, tourists will do well to visit the Arethusa Falls soon after heavy rains, — although the labor of reaching them then is greater, because the line of the stream is not then available as a route. The Guide-Book party passed from the Arethusa Falls to the Ripley Falls by tak- ing a northerly course through the forest, leaving the Frankenstein Cliff about J M. to the r. The march occupied about 2 hrs. and crossed several low ridges, through open and easily travelled woods. Care must be taken not to deflect too far to the r. and strike Cow Brook below the falls. It is better to strike it above and descend its madcap downward course. 50. The Crawford House accommodates 300-400 guests, charging S?4 50 a day, with considerable reductions for regular boarders, especially in June and September. It is managed by Mr. C. H. Merrill. The post-office is in the large central hall, which serves as a rendezvous and exchange for tourists The hotel has a barber-shop, bowling-alley, telegraph-office, and a large livery -stable ; and is lighted with gas. Railroad and stage connections are made between this and all the other mountain-hotels, so that transient visits may be planned from this as a centre. The house opens about June 1st. Distances (from the hotel-list). — Crawford House to Gibbs's Falls, £ M. ; Elephant's Head, i ; Beecher's Cascades, £: Gate of the Notch, ±; Profiles, £; Pulpit Rock, i; Flume Cascade, }; Silver Cascade, 1 ; Devil's Den, 2; Mt. Wil- CRAWFORD HOUSE. Route 50. 149 lard, 2 ; Hitchcock Flume, 2 ; Willey House, 3 ; Ripley Falls, 6 : Ammonoosuc Falls, 5^; Mt. Washington, by bridle-path, 8.§- : Mt. Washington, by railroad, 13. Mountain- wagons are frequently despatched from the hotel to Mt. Willard, the Wil- ley House, and other points of interest, and passengers are taken for a small sum each. Routes. — From Boston by the Eastern Division of the Boston & Maine R. R., leaving at morning, and arriving late in the afternoon. Or by the Eastern Division to Portland, and thence by the Portland & Ogdcnsburg R. R. By the Boston & Lowell R R. from Boston to the Fabyan House. ;>nd thence by the P. & 0. R. R., the same afternoon. From New York in about 24 hours, by various combinations with the Sound steamers and the Connecticut-Valley lines. The Crawford House is on a little plateau 1,900 ft. above the sea, occu- pying a tract which the geologists maintain was the bed of an ancient lake. On the W. are Mts. Field and Tom. Mt Clinton is on the E., and in front are Mts. Webster and Willard, with the majestic portals of the Notch. A few rods in front of the house is the pretty little building of the railroad station. There are more interesting short excursions in this vicinity than near any other of the mountain-hotels, except the Profile House. The environs of the house are neatly kept, and embellished with fountains and costly lawns. Two springs which rise near by seek differ- ent courses, one flowing into the Ammonoosuc, the other into the Saco. A short distance from the house, on the 1. front, is Saco Lake, from which the young Saco River flows, entering its impetuous course through the Notch. This sheet of water has been enlarged and deepened by artificial means, and is provided with boats and little piers. On its E. shore, at the foot of the mountain, and approached by a short path, is the pleasant bit of disciplined forest called Idlewild, which overlooks the lake and glen, and is provided with many rustic seats. Shapleigh's interesting studio, and the crystalline Merrill Spring, should be visited. The Elephant's Head is about \ M. from the hotel, and derives its name from the resemblance of its shape, as seen from the piazzas. It is a rocky bluff on the E. side of the Notch, and commands a good view of the upper part of the defile and of the Crawford-House plateau. The path diverges to the 1. from the road below the lake, and winds around through the forest to the top of the rock. The double * Gate of the Notch is about 80 rods in front of the hotels, from which it is well seen, and consists of the narrow pass (26 ft. wide) through which the road leads and the Saco flows, between two huge piles of rock. The Gate has not been enlarged to admit the passage of the railroad, since a new passage has been made for the track between the W. portal and the rocky side of Mt. Willard. It has been proposed to span these two gates by a double triumphal arch, to commemorate the ancient victory of nature, aided by water, and the recent victory of man, aided by fire, over the flinty barriers in their way. A short distance below the Gate of the Notch, and about ^ m. from the hotel, guide-boards are raised by the roadside, telling where to look on the adjacent cliffs to see the profiles of the Old Maid of the Mountain, the 150 Route 51. CRAWFORD HOUSE. Infant, the Young Man, the Sentinel, the African Face, and the Grand- mother. The labor of hunting out these profiles, whether successful or otherwise, is doubtless a prolonged and valuable discipline of the im- agination. The Old Maid and the Infant are seen from nearly the same point, the former being on a spur of Mt. Webster, and the latter on the side of Pulpit Rock. * Beecher's Cascades are about ^ m. from the hotel, and are reached by a good path turning to the r. from the front of the house, and crossing the railroad-cut on a foot-bridge. It soon enters the forest and crosses and ascends on the 1. bank of the brook, being provided with stairways and rustic seats. There are several beautiful falls on the brook, amid pictu- resque rock-scenery, and surrounded by a primitive forest. Passing all these cascades the path crosses the brook at the head of the uppermost, ascends a shelving ledge, and terminates at a rustic seat above, from which the visitor gains a fine view of the peaks toward Mt. Washington, down a long vista of foliage. The pools and falls along this glen have been pleasantly described by Henry Ward Beecher, in honor of whom they were named. • abbs' s Falls are about \ M. from the hotel, by a path entering the woods on the 1. They were named in honor of a former landlord of the Crawford House. The brook falls 30-40 ft., around a projecting central ledge. This path is the same as the old bridle-path to Mt. Washington for a part of its course. There are pleasant bits of water-scenery all along the course of the brook. There is a legend to the effect that the hardy old Scotchman who founded the Crawford family of New Hampshire erected a rude log-house near the Notch, and began to attack the forest. The royal Governor Wentworth occasionally took solitary incognito journeys through the Province, and on one of these jaunts he found Crawford's hut, and began to make himself agreeable to Mrs. Crawford. But she stoutly rebuffed him, and complained to her husband on his return, a 1 vainly, how- ever, for the jovial old Scot saw in Wentworth a kindred soul, and bade him stay all night. The evening was passed in drinking and merry-making, until Crawford pro- tested that his guest was " the best fellow he had met wi* sin the dayo' the baillie o' Glasgow, who was aye fou' six days out o' the seven, and euded his life at last ae drifty night amang the snaw."' Before leaving, in the morning, the Governor got the frontiersman to promise to visit him at YVolfeborough, where he was well known as " Old Wentworth." Here he was royally received, and the dismayed old woods- man, repentant for his wassail with the king's representative, was finally dismissed with a deed of 1,000 acres of land about his farm. The Crawfords opened a hotel called the Notch House, close to the Gate of the Notch, many years ago. It was in its glory in 1840, when Thomas J Crawford was the proprietor. Grant Allen, the typical Anglo-colonial tourist, thus found the Crawford House : " At Crawford's we pitched our headquarters, and found ourselves very comfortably ensconced in a hotel about as big as the Grand or the M^tropole, but surrounded on every side by an utter jungle of primeval forest. A neat little railway station stands beside the hotel ; otherwise, no other human habitation is anywhere in view, nor can you reach any with- out taking the train to Fabyan's in one direction, or to the Wiiley House CRAWFORD HOUSE. Route 51. 150 a below in the other. In front stretches a little lake, and a small lawn; but just beyond the mountains rise precipitously from the narrow glen, clad from top to bottom with magnificent woodland. Footpaths lead up several of the torrents, which are in character not unlike those at Dolgelly ; though the woodland itself and its undergrowth of vegetation are utterly dissimilar to anything that can be seen anywhere in Europe. Huge moss- clad trunks strew the ground, each one lying just where it fell and moul- dering away into deep black earth, on which maidenhair ferns and rich forest lilies flourish luxuriantly. Never, save in the West Indies, have I seen such a glorious native woodland flora. The foliage formed its chief attraction; large-leaved bush foliage, like that of a conservatory, but growing in wild luxuriance over crag and tree trunk, tilling the niches of rock by the watercourses w th its broad verdure, and carpeting the soil everywhere with an exquisite pattern of rich glossy green. It was indeed a sight to gladden a botanist's eyes; and when one adds to it the deep blue berries of the clintonia lilies, the strange triangular flowers of the trilliums, the great bunches of Indian cucumber and Solomon's seals and smilacinas and rattlesnake plantain, I need hardly say that the under- growth of woodland plants on the mountain side was almost tropical in its abundance and magnificence. Through this log-encumbered, moss- grown, lily-dappled forest the mountain torrents course down in sheets of silvery foam from granite barrier into granite basin." Mrs. Mary E. Blake writes this charming description: "Around the oval upland meadow upon which the house stands, the mountains rise like ramparts to guard against intrusion. Only in one spot, where the rocks are riven asunder by some gigantic convulsive force, is there visible passage through the defile of hills to the outer world. The straight, precipitous sides, clothed in a dense robe of trees and underbrush, rise from one to two thousand feet above the valley, as if to shelter it from harshness. The air and light seem to have been filtered through some purifying medium until they have become inebriating, both in purity and intensity. There is no sense of being pent or hindered; it is not you who are shut in, but the world that is shut out. At first it is sufficient to sit apart and drink this superabundant loveliness. If any desire is left in the midst of content it is for rest and contemplation, so that the lineaments of the picture may have time to stamp their sun image upon the soul. But soon the inspiring leaven of the bracing atmosphere begins to work, and one is seized by a veritable rage for motion. The spot is lavish in opportunities for walking and climbing. Paths radiate in every direction, and pass through every variety of scene. There are trails opening into the deep woods behind the house, winding through dewy dells heavy with the fragrance of forest growths, skirting the lovely small lake they call Ammonoosuc, dipping and climbing, by a crystal spring which sparkles with the coldest and clearest water, by tiny clearings that give a passing 150 6 Route 51. CRAWFORD HOUSE. glimpse of some neighboring mountain peak, by mossy rocks and high banks covered with arbutus leaves and the scarlet fruit of the mountain cranberry, until they reach at last some vantage ground from which the long line of shining summits can be seen glowing in the light and fading faint and far into the blue distance. One of these terminal points called ' The Red Bench,' and rising above the cutting for the railway, offers the most exquisite view of the Presidential range, with Mt. Washington in the foreground, that is to be found in the entire length of the valley. There are paths leading to each and every mountain peak within reach of vision ; some short and easy climbs like Avalon and Willard ; some long and severe like the bridle trail across the crest of Clinton, Pleasant, Franklin and Monroe, to the summit of Washington, a weary but soul- satisfying experience which those who have tried deem incomparable. There is the valley road down the Notch, through the awful cleft precipice at its mouth, past tumbling cascades and rapid, sprawling brooks, over rustic bridges and through the dappled shades of a forest of most singular beauty to the harrowing loneliness of the Willey House or the more satisfying outlook from some point beyond. There are the ascents of Elephant's Head and Bugle Cliff, looking down the Notch, and perhaps the most fascinating rambles of all, in following the series of lovel}' cas- cades to the right of the house, as one looks toward the opening. A gem of a mountain stream, tricksy and beautiful as Undine, now dimpling in deep, quiet pools, now tumbling down shallow, rocky watercourses, here a dazzling mass of diamond ropes flashing back the sunshine, there a tangle of flying silver arrows shot through the tree-tops, with a voice that is gay or sad, as your own mood chooses, and a wilful bounding grace that carries your heart with it as it sparkles out of sight down the hillside." The Crawford Path still has its terrors for the inexperienced. In 1885 one party was compelled to pass the night in the cabin on Mt. Clinton ; and a young Bostonian a few days later became insensible from exhaustion, and was with difficulty carried from the corral to the summit. A young man from Taunton was obliged to be carried up the peak on a stretcher. A new path has been made from the Crawford House to the top of Mt. Tom, revealing a grand view of the Carrigain Notch. The Red Bench, 15 minutes' walk from the Crawford, near Ammonoosuc Lake, is celebrated for its afternoon views of the mountains. It is a favorite haunt of Shap- leigh, the artist. A gravelled path extends around Ammonoosuc Lake. 51. Mount Willard stands in the mouth of the Notch, between Mts. Field and Jackson, its E. base forming one side of the Gate of the Notch. It is about 2,570 ft. above the sea, or 670 ft. above the Crawford House. The N. side is covered with woods, but on the S. is a vast precipice of brilliantly colored rocks, falling off sharply to the Saco glen below. Mts. Field and Willey tower over MT. WILLARD. Route 51. 151 Willard, on the W., 1,600-1,900 ft. higher; and Mts. Jackson and Web- ster, on the E., are 1,600-1,700 ft. higher. The summit is reached from the hotel by a good carriage-road, 2 M. long, which crosses the track below the station. Mountain-wagons are often sent up from the Crawford House; and the journey on foot is easy and pleasant, leading through picturesque woods. The road leads out to the edge of the cliff, from which a noble view is gained. It is not a mountain pan rama, such as may be enjoyed from Mt Willey or Mt. Clinton, and its horizon is narrowed by the ad- jacent ranges; but it has a singular beauty.and quaint individuality which no other view possesses. It is preferred by many frequenters of the hill- country to any other prospect in this region. According to some accounts this mountain was named for Prof. Sidney Willard, of Harvard University; but others say from Joseph Willard, of Boston, an enthusiastic admirer of the view, in the days of the Crawfords. In 1844 Prof. Tuckerman as- cended it and named it Mt. Tom (after Tom Crawford). ** The View. — Nearly N. E. is the high peak of Mt. Jefferson, rising rapidly to the r. from the insignificant and chaotic hills of the Mitten and Dartmouth ranges. On its r. are the uneven humps of Mt. Clay, from which the rugged slope of Mt Washington ascends to the hamlet on the summit. Mt. Clinton's shaggy sides fill up much of the horizon in this direction, but are overlooked, on the 1., by the curving crest of Pleasant. Farther to the r. are the formidable masses of Mts. Jackson and Webster, just across the Notch, cut into by ravines and jewelled with cascades, — the brilliant stripes on Webster's W. front showing but in part. Beyond the r. flank of the latter are the wooded ridges below the Saco, Table Mt., and the W. spurs of Moat Mt ; and about S. S. W. the weird white crown of Chocorua peers over the dark ridge of Bear Mt. More to the r. is the long and gracefully outlined Mt. Nancy, rising from the Notch to a narrow plateau (over which Mr. Tremont is seen), and thence to a rounded crest. The mighty sweep of Mt. Willey then cuts off the view, rising to a great height, and trending to the r. in the line which includes also Mt. Field (nearly W.) and Mt. Tom (N. N. W.). The great gorge in which the Saco flows is, however, the chief feature of interest, filled, as it is, with dense woods, and traversed by the narrow and often-obscured bands of the turnpike and railroad. The white walls of the Willey House are far below, a mere dot on the ruin-swept lowlands. " Much of this scenery, I say , is superior to the famed and classic lands of Europe. I know nothing, for instance, on the Rhine equal to the view from Mt. Willard, "down the mountain pass called the Notch." (Anthony Trollope's North America.) " Under our feet yawned the tremendous gulf of the Notch, roofed with belts of cloud, which floated across from summit to summit nearly at our level ; so that we stood, as in the organ-loft of some grand cathedral, looking down into its dim nave. At the farther end, over the fading lines of some nameless mountains, stood Choco- rua purple with distance, terminating the majestic vista. It was a picture which the eye could take in at one glance ; no landscape could be simpler or more sublime. The noise of a cataract on our r., high up on Mt. Willey, filled the air with a fir, sweet, fluctuating murmur, but all around us the woods were still, the harebells 152 Route 52. MT. WILLARD. bloomed, and the sunshine lay warm on the grani e I had never heard this view particularly celebrated, and was therefore the more impressed by its wonderful beauty. As a simple picture of a mountain pass, seen from above, it cannot be surpassed in Switzerland. . . .A portion of the effect, of course, depends on the illumination, but no traveller who sees it on a day of mingled cloud and sunshine will be disap- pointed." (Bayard Taylor.) " But to know the Notch truly, one must take the drive from the Crawford Home to the top of Mt. Willard, and look down into it. A man stands there as an ant might stand on the edge of a huge tureen The road below is a mere bird- track. The long battlements that, from the front of the Willey House, tower on each side so savagely, from this point seem to flow down in charming curves to meet at the stream The view of the summits of the Mt. Washington Range, too, .... is a reward for the short excursion, almost as valuable as the view of the Gulf of the Notch. And let us again advise visitors to ascend Mt. Willard, if pos- sible, late in the afternoon. They will then see one long wall of the Notch in shadow, and can watch it move slowly up the curves of the opposite side, displacing the yellow splendor, while the dim green dome of Washington is gilded by the sink- ing sun ' with heavenly alchemy.' " (Starr Kikg.) The Hitchcock Flume is on the E. flank of Mt. Willard, and was d's- eovered by Prof. C. H. Hitchcock, in 1S75. It is reached by a good path which diverges to the 1. (in ascending) from the carriage-road, about \ M. below the summit. The flume consists of a narrow canon between high perpendicular and parallel walls of rock, its bed having a rapid slope, and being so damp as to be unsafe to venture through. This singular gorge is 350 ft. long, and its walls are 30-60 ft. high, approaching in some places to within 6 - 8 ft. of each other. In the lower portion it bends to the r. around a tall crag: far below which is the railroad, with many a cliff between. The Buttenoort Flume is another interesting locality on the mountain. The Devil's Den is a black-mouthed cavern on the S. side of the cliffs of Mt. Willard, and is plainly seen from the road. It is reported that Crawford visited it, many j ears ago, and found the bottom strewn with bones and other ghastly relics ; and marvellous stories of the supernatural were afterwards told about it. In 1856, however, the Ten was explored by Dr. Ball, who was lowered down the cliff by ropes He found it to be 20 ft. wide and deep, and 15 ft. high, very cold and damp, but con- taining nothing remarkable or interesting During the State Survey of 1870, explor- ers were lowered to the Den by a rope 125 ft. long, but their discoveries did not repay the peril of the descent. 52. The Mount -Willey Range. This conspicuous and interesting ridge commences near the White- Mountain House in Carroll, and runs nearly S. for 8 M., to the ravine S. of Mt. Willey. It shows a steady rise from the low granitic peaks on the N. to the bold crest of Willey; and in its southerly section it forms the W. wall of the White-Mt. Notch. It is covered with unbroken forests, which, however, afford no worse obstacle than light underbrush, easily parted or trodden down, save about the thicket-fringed ledges and on the densely wooded crests. Strong clothing should be worn during the explo- ration of this range, since any other would soon be riddled by the spruce boughs. No water is found between the base of Mt. Field and the farther slope of Mt. Willey, and the visitor would do well to carry a bottle of cold tea or some other refreshing beverage. MOUNT WILLEY. Route 52. 153 Mt. Tom is just to the westward of the Crawford House, and is about 3,200 ft. high. It was named in honor of Thomas J. Crawford, the founder of the Crawford House. There is but little to interest tourists on this summit, as it is covered with trees which prevent a view from being obtained. The ascent is made by following the stream on which Beecher's Cascades are situated, up to its source, and then gaining the ridge to the W., which is followed to ther. to the .jungle on the mst. Mt. Avalon is the name given by the Editor to the peak above Beecher's Cas- cades, because it had no name of its own and on account of its resemblance to certain bold hills in Avalon, the great S. E. peninsula of Newfoundland. It is ascended by striking off into the forest in a left oblique direction from the head of Beecher's Cascades, and the upward journey may be achieved in H hrs. The first peak is low and wooded, and is separated by a shallow trough, abounding in thickets, from the main peak, which consists of a high pile of rugged rocks. This is a fine watch-tower from which to reconnoitre the main Mt.-Willey Range, whereof Mt. Tom stands on the r., Mt Field in front, and Mt Willey on the 1. On the other side, and far below, is the round and wooded summit of Mt Willard, with the Crawford House clearing on the N. and the long gorge of the White-Mt. Notch to the S. To the S. E. is the striped front of Mt. Webster, beyond which the peak of Mt. Crawford cuts the sky : and at the foot of the Notch are the Swift -River peaks, terminated by the white gable of Chocorua. To the N E. are the colossal stairs leading to Mt. Washington, — woody Clinton, rounded Pleasant, and spire-like Mon- roe ; and beyond the great peak is the massive bulwark of Jefferson. The northern view includes a section of the Ammonoosuc Valley, the Mt Deception, Cberry-Mt , and Srarr-Kiasi ranges, and a portion of the valley of Israel's River. Farther to the N. W. are the Essex-County hills and the cloven mountains at Willoughby Lake. Mt. Field was formerly called Mt. Lincoln, in honor of the martyr President, but the Mt. Lincoln in Franconia claimed priority of nomencla- ture, so the State Geologist, in order to avoid confusion of localities, named this peak in honor of Darby Field, who first ascended Mt. Washington (in 16-42). It is 4,400 ft. high, but possesses no interest for tourists, the top being covered with dense thickets which shut out the view. The ascent is made only as a part of the attack on Mt. Willey, and is usually conducted by way of Beecher's Cascades and Mt. Avalon. It takes a little longer time to visit Avalon, but the detour is advisable as affording opportunity to plan the route of ascent. The best line is found by striking directly up the X. flank of Mt. Field to the dark-green foliage, which indi- cates heavy timber and less undergrowth. Mt. Willey attains a height of 4,330 fit., and is the chief peak and S. end of the Mt.-Willey Range, which forms the W. wall of the White-Mt. Notch. It was first ascended in 1845, by Prof. Tuckerman. The views from its summit are broad and beautiful, and include one of the best gen- eral prospects over the Pemigewasset Forest. The ascent is made by an Appalachian path which leaves the P. & O. R. R. about £ M. S. of Moore's Brook station, and ascends steeply for nearly £ M. through the woods, after which a more level stretch of 300 ft. leads to the Brook Kedron. The latter is followed for a little over £ M. to its source, whence a forest patli leads to the crest in less than i M. The entire route rises '2,700 ft. in a distance of 1£ M., or about 1 ft. in 3. Several parties of ladies and gentlemen have made the ascent, with grati- fying results ; and the path is kept in good repair and plainly marked. 154 Routed. MOUNT WILLEY. The second route is entered by way of Beecher's Cascades, Mt. Avalon, and over Mt. Field (see page 153), whence the ridge is followed to the S for about two hours. There are two slight eminences on this line of heights, and the woods are comparatively open, being free from fallen timber and encumbered only with light underbrush. The time necessary for climbing from the Crawford House to the summit of Mt. Willey is about five hours. The crest is covered with a dense thicket of low trees, but is surrounded by a ring of opeu rocky land, whence the outlook is gained. * The View. — Mt. Webster is nearly E., across the WhiteMt. Notch, scarred by numerous long slides and made brilliant by contrasting bands of red. yellow, and green Its long thin crest droops toward the S., and is faced by bright-red rocks. From this point the Presidential Range trends to the N. E., including Jackson's gray summit, the meadow-like cap of Clinton, the symmetrical dome of Pleasant, the slide-striped slopes of Franklin, and the craggy top of Monroe. Over all is the alpine hamlet on Washington, with the level lines of Bigelow's Lawn and Boott's Spur running off to the r. On the 1. is the railway- station, in the valley of the Ammonoosuc; and portions of the track are also visible. On the 1. of Washington are the zigzag crest-lines of Clay, the rocky pyramid of Ad- ams, and the high peak of Jefferson farthest to the 1. Nearly N. E., over the range beyond the Notch, is the Carter Dome, with a portion of the Moriah Range; on whose r. are the sky-meeting peaks of Baldface, capped with white ledges and flanked by a section of Royce. Eastman and S^ble are seen next on the r., and then come the distant crests of Double-Head and Mt. Gemini, over the Montalban Ridge and below the horizon. Thorn Mt. also rises beyond this ridge, and far beyond are the highlands of Waterford and Sweden, scarcely rippling the level sky-line. Over the r. of Thorn is the lofty cone of Kiarsarge, with the upper cliff of Giant's Stairs below, and Resolution close alongside the latter. On the S. of Kiarsarge, the Green Hills of Conway are seen, over which rises Mt. Pleasant, near Se- bago Lake, with a hotel near the midd e of its long rolling ridge. Nearly S. E.. below the Green Hills, and across the Notch, within a few miles, are the massive ridges of Mts. Crawford, Resolution, and Giant's Stairs, whose upper portions are flecked with brilliantly colored ledges of light- red rock. Crawford is distinguishable by its sharply cut peak; Resolu- tion is crowned by a broad plateau, 266 ft. higher; and the upper terraces of the Giant's Stairs close the group on the N. Farther to the r. is a por- tion of the Notch, traversed by the white band of the P. & 0. Railroad: and N. Conway is seen on the widening plain beyond, with the bold peaks of Moat Mt. on the r. Over the section between Kiarsarge and Moat ex- tends a vast area of Western Maine, diversified by low mountains, high- land lakes, and white villages. Between Pleasant and Moat, about S. E., the city of Ponland and the ocean beyond can be seen with a good glass. To the r. of Lloat, and in the same range, S. of the Saco, are the flat tops MOUNT WILLEY. Route 52. 155 of Table Mf., the undulating ridge of Bear Mt., the dark cone of the Hay- stack, and the whitish knobs of Tremont. Beyond these, to the S., is the white and storm-beaten ridge of Chocorua, with a singularly regular pyramid as its crowning point; over which, on the r., and far to the S., is a portion of the blue Ossipee Range, with Copple Crown and Moose Mt., below Lake Winnepesaukee. The view now passes over the long plateau on the S. to Mt. Nancy, whence a continuous range runs to the S. W., including a nameless sec- ond peak and then the dark and pointed tops of Bits. Anderson and Lowell. Beyond these are the peaks of the Sandwich Range, Passaconaway being due S. and nearly over Mt. Anderson, with the white mound of Potash at its base. The double-crested Whiteface is just to the r., over the peak of Lowell; and Tripyramid is a triple-headed blue ridge still farther to the r. The view now rests on the vast and imposing form of Mt. Carrigain, about 8 M. distant, W. of S., rising directly from the wilderness, with step-like spu s on the N. and a sharp descent on the S. In front of the great ravine in its N. E. side is Vose's Spur, below which is the pro- found Carrigain Notch ; and the Lowell-Anderson-Nancy Range extends thence to the 1. to the White-Mt. Notch. A portion of Sandwich Dome is visible through the Carrigain Notch; and Osceola is farther to the r., through the gap between Carrigain and the wooded mass of Hancock. On the S. W. is the quiet and secluded sheet of Ethan's Pond, beyond which the valley of the true Merrimac (East Branch of the PemigewasseO extends for many leagues, covered with unbroken forests and without signs of habitation or civilization. This desolate region is diversified by low ridges and is bounded irregularly by bold mountains. 8-10 M. dis- tant across this wilderness is the Twin Range, whereof the S. Twin is due W. of Mt. Willey, with the N. Twin on the r. and the high and massive ridges of Mts. Guyot and Bond on the 1. The stately blue ridge of Moosilauke appears over the 1. flank of Mt. Bond, and on its r., over the Twins, are the sharp crests of Mts. Flume. Liberty, and Lincoln, terminating with the thin and lofty serrated ridge of Lafayette. The N. Twin is marked by a long white slide, and slopes down toward the New-Zealand Notch, through which a vista of the Am- monoosuc Valley is gained, with Mt. Hale and the Sugar Loaves closing in on the W. Nearly N. W. are the sharply notched mountains at Wil- loughby Lake, beyond the Victory Hills, in Vermont; while more to the r.,and much nearer, is Cherry Mt , with the Owl's-Head peak on its N. end. Between Cherry and Jefferson are the low and monotonous ranges of Mt. Deception, with long dark slopes; Mt. Dartmouth, with three well- marked peaks; and Mt. Mitten, showing a knob-like summit. Ab n ve these are the Starr-King and Pilot Ranges, with the village of Jefferson Hill; and the valley of the upper Connecticut opens above Lancaster, in which Cape Horn stands out conspicuously. In the remote distance, 156 Route 53. EASTERN PEM1GEWASSET. E. of N., are the Dixville and Magalloway Mts.; and beyond all (over Mt. Mitten) is the blue crest of Mt. Carmel, between the Connecticut and Parmachene Lakes, and within 7 M. of the Canadian frontier. 53. Eastern Pemigewasset. The term Pemigewasset has been applied to the great wilderness which surrounds the East Branch and its tributaries, including (according to Prof. Hitchcock) the Mt.-Willey and Nancy Ranges, Mts. Carrigain, Han- cock, Tripyramid, Osceola, Tecumseh, Welch, Black, Loon-Pond, the Twins, the Franconia Range, the Haystack, Mt. Hale, and many nameless peaks. The boundaries therefore seem to be the Saco River on the E., the Ammonoosuc and Gale Rivers on the N., the Pemigewasset on the W., and (partly) the Mad and Sawyer's Rivers on the S. This broad region is still in a condition of primeval wildness, and has not been in- vaded by clearings, roads, or trails. " Clear to the Franconia Notch extends this untracked and unvisited realm of Nature, who yet holds one fastness in the heart of busy New England, with its glorious falls not yet harnessed as ' water-powers,' and its stately trees yet undeveloped into sashes and blinds." This forest may be entered to better advantage on the W. side, from the town of Lincoln, but certain localities toward the E. are reached more easily from the Saco Valley. The inner solitudes should be entered only under the guidance of experienced foresters; and travelling will be found very slow and arduous. The scenery is simply that of a vast primeval forest, most of the environing mountains being hidden by the foliage or by intervening ridges. Trout increase and multiply almost undisturbed in the brooks and ponds; and during the winter many deer are shot here. Ethan's Pond is S. W. of the precipitous sides of Mt. Willey, which is seen to great advantage from its shores. It covers a small area, and is surrounded by dense forests on all sides. The pond is probably over 2,500 ft. above the sea; and is visited only by occasional parties of trout- fishers, who camp on the shores. The route is through the Willey Notch, whose summit is 2,800 ft. above the sea, or about 1,500 ft. above the Willey House. The Saco Valley is left near the Willey House, and the great slide on the S. of Mt. Willey is ascended to the plateau S- of the mountain, whence a line of spotted trees leads in to the pond, 3 M. from the Saco turnpike. This secluded mountain-tarn is probably the fountain-head of the Merrimac River, whereof Whittier and Thoreau write: — " Go, child o'f that white-crested mo'intain whose springs Gush forth in the shade of the eliff-easle s wings, Down whose slopes to the lowlands thy wild waters shine, Leaping gray walls of rock, flashing through the dwarf pine. " From that cloud-curtained cradle so cold and so lone, From the arms of that wintry-locked mother of stone, By hills hung with forests, through vales wild and free. Thy mountain-born brightness glanced down to the sea." EASTERN PEMIGEW ASSET. Route 53. 157 " At first it comes on murmuring to itself by the base of stately and retired mountains, through moist primitive woods whose juices it receives, where the bear still drinks it, and the cabins of settlers are far between, and there are few to cross its stream ; enjoying in solitude its cascades still unknown to fame ; by long ranges of mountains of Sandwich and of Squam, slumbering like tumuli of Titans, with the peaks of Moosilauke, the Haystack, and Kearsarge reflected in its waters ; where the maple and the raspberry, those lovers of the hills, flourish amid tem- perate dews ; flowing long and full of meaning, but untranslatable as its name, Pemigewasset, by m my a pastured Pelion and Ossa, where unnamed muses haunt, tended by Oeale*, Dryads, and Nereids, and receiving the tribute of many an un- tasted Hippocrene. " Such water do the gods distil, And pour down everv hill For their New England men. A draught of this wild nectar bring And I 11 not taste the spring Of Helicon again." Where it meets the sea is " Plum Island, its sand ridges scalloping along the horizon like the sea-serpent, and the distant outline broken by many a tall ship, leaning, still, against the sky Standing at its mouth, looking up its sparkling stream to its source, — a silver cascade which falls all the way from the White Mts. to the sea, — and behold a city on each successive plateau, a busy colony of human beavers around every fall. Not to mention Newburvport and Haverhill, see Law- rence, and Lowell, and Nashua, and Manchester, and Concord , gleaming one above the other. 11 Many years ago, when Ethan Allen Crawford was ranging the woods, he encamped on these shores for a night. While ca.ching trout for supper, he saw two large brown moose among the lily-pads, and by quick action he succeeded in killing them both. After a glorious feast of trout and moose-meat, he retired to sleep between the skins of the fallen animals, regardless of the wolves that were howling on every side. Since that night the pond has been known as Ethan's Pond The Thoreau Falls may be reached by descending the Merrimac from Ethan's Pond for about four hours' march (4-5 M ). At this point the river has as much water as the Saco shows at Bemis Station, and descends over 200 ft. in £ M., the latter part of which contains several nearly verti- cal leaps. These falls were named by the Editor in memory of Henry D. Thoreau, the poet-naturalist, who has so often written lovingly of the Merrimac River and its fountains in the wilderness; and also in allusion to the polyglot meaning of his name, " Thunder-Water." The march from the Notch to the Thoreau Falls will take 6-7 hrs., and by encamping at their foot the visitors can descend to the Pemigewasset Valley the next day. Another, but more difficult route of exit is by crossing the forest to the N. \V. to the outlet of the New-Zealand Pond, ascending to and beyond the pond, and up the stream which enters it from the N. A short journey from the head of this brook leads through the New-Zealand Notch, and to the upper part of the New-Zealand River, which may be followed down to the Ammonoosuc, between the White-Mt. and Twin-Mt. Houses. Prof. Huntington estimates the distance from the Thoreau Falls to the Ammonoosuc highway at 5-6 M., — a good day's journey. Western Pemigewasset, see Route 111. Mt. Hancosk is close to Mt. Carrigain, on the W., and covers a great 158 Route 51 FABYAN HOUSE. area of the Pemigewasset Forest. Its extent and shape are vaguely rep- resented on the maps because mu-h of the adjacent country is still unex- plored. It is the Pemigewasset Peak of Prof. Guyot's map, according to which it reaches a height of 4,420 ft. 54. The Fabyan House accommodates over 500 guests, charging $ 4.50 a day, and $ 21 - 25 a week. Its ex- ternal architecture is unattractive, but the halls and rooms are high-studded and airy. Within the house are telegraph and post offices, billiard and bowling rooms, a news-stand, and other conveniences. The building is lighted by gas. There is a large livery-stable ; and a farm is connected with the hotel. During the season an orchestra is kept here to play on the piazzas and in the halls. Visitors experience immunity from the attacks of rose-cold, or hay-fever. The house is kept open from June 20th to Oct. 1st. ]t is within a stoue's throw of the junction of the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad with the Mt. -Washington Branch of the Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad. The main front of the hofel is 320 ft long ; the parlor is 100 X 35 ft in area ; and the dining-hall is 130 X 45 ft The great central hall is 60 ft. squire, and contains the offices. It is the rendezvous of the guests at all times. The Mi -Pleasant House is a new and well-located hotel, between the railroads, and about J M. from the Fabyan House It accommodates 300 guests, at about & 3. 50 a day." The lYJtilf-Mowntfiin Jlo'i^e is about 1 M. W. of the Fabyan House, and is an an- cient inn who.-e rates are 3r2.50 a day (#7 -15 a week). !t is at the intersection of tue Bethlehem and Cherry-Mt. roads, ami is a > tat ion on the railroad. Tue building was constructed ahuut t-ie