^S% United States idPJ Department of £^ v Agriculture Forest Service Home and Garden No. 212 Renovate an Old House? CONTENTS Page AN EXPLANATION 3 The Wood-Frame House — and Change 3 Key Points to Consider 5 BASIC STRUCTURE 5 Foundations 5 Walls 5 Damp basements 6 Structural Wood Frame 6 Recognizing decay damage. 6 Termite problems 6 Floor supports 7 Floor framing 7 Wall framing 8 Roof framing 9 NONSTRUCTURAL ESSEN- TIALS 9 House Exterior 9 Siding and trim 9 Roof 10 Windows 11 Doors 11 Porches 11 Chimneys and fireplaces 12 House Interior 12 Flooring 12 Walls and ceilings 12 Trim, cabinets, and doors. _ 13 Page NONSTRUCTURAL ESSEN- TIALS— Con. Insulation and Control of Mois- ture 13 Air leakage 13 Insulation 14 Moisture control 14 Mechanical Questionmarks 15 Plumbing 15 Heating 16 Electrical 17 ARRANGEMENT AND AP- PEARANCE 17 Traffic Patterns in House 17 Layout.. 17 Work area 18 Private area 18 Relaxation area 18 Appearance 18 FINAL EVALUATION 19 Major Reasons for Rejection 19 Guideposts for the Final Deci- sion 19 Cost 20 Location 20 Sentimental Value 20 A Caution 20 Your Own Feelings 20 ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.. 21 March 1976 Slightly revised November 1984 For Sale by the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402 11 Renovate an Old House? By Gerald E. Sherwood Forest Products Laboratory, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service Many people consider renovating an old house, but is it possible, or would it be worthwhile? This bulletin suggests some points to weigh. Because many houses that might be candidates for rehabili- tation are old houses of wood, much of the emphasis here is on wood structures. Emphasis is placed on how to view the house, from foundation to roof, and how to look for the condition of important items. (The Forest Products Laboratory is maintained\ at Madison, Wis., in cooperation with the 1 University of Wisconsin. / M-143 473 Figure 1. — One old wood-frame house was revitalized like this. AN EXPLANATION The Great American Dream has always included a dream home — and today many Americans are still looking for fulfillment of that dream. While some persons will be satisfied only with a new home, many others will be grateful for any home that meets their needs. Frequently this means revitalizing an old house. But there are always the nagging questions: "Is this house worth renovating? Could I do it? Should I do it?" For most of us, our home represents the largest single ex- penditure we will make. Obviously it is important — and just as obviously, no single answer covers all situations. This bulletin points out some of the things to consider if you are thinking of remodeling that common structure — a wood-frame house. Information presented here is based on six decades of research and experience on wood construc- tion by the Forest Products Lab- oratory, Forest Service, U.S. De- partment of Agriculture. No single publication can ade- quately discuss all items to be considered in evaluating a home for renovation. Here attention is focused on the building itself, with no mention of where that house is located. It is beyond our scope here to get into such problems as the condition and future of the neighborhood, availability of transportation, dis- tance to shopping and schools, or the vulnerability to such natural disasters as floods. This bulletin can only give guide- lines. You are still the one that must answer the question: After I have the facts, do I really want to renovate that old house? ' The Wood-Frame House- Change -and The wood-frame house has been common in the United States since the 17th century. Today houses of various ages exist across the coun- try. Some older dwellings have been well maintained and remodeled to keep pace with contemporary living requirements. On the other hand, many older houses lack modern conveniences and comforts; some, through neglect, are in a deteriorat- ing or dilapidated condition. A well-built house that is properly maintained does not wear out quickly. It may become outdated and lack certain conveniences and comforts, but it does not wear out. Normally, wood does not deteriorate in strength or stiffness from age alone for many years. For instance, most structural properties changed 1 Further information on deciding if a house is worth rehabilitating — and guide- lines on how to do the job — are given in "New Life for Old Dwellings: Ap- praisal and Rehabilitation," US DA Agriculture Handbook No. 481. 1975. little in timbers from Japanese temples 3 to 13 centuries old. Only shock resistance was seriously re- duced after several centuries. In spite of the permanence of the wood-frame house, many older houses are being razed, or have been abandoned to a slower destruc- tion by decay, insects, rodents, and the elements. Some houses have deteriorated to a point where re- habilitation would be impractical; but many might be restored to a sound condition and updated in convenience and comfort (fig. 1) — and at a lower cost than building a new house. Rehabilitation may have other advantages besides savings: The owner can stay in familiar sur- roundings; some older houses pro- vide more space than can be achieved in a new house at reason- able cost; the work can usually be done as finances become available; the character of the older house is often preferred over a new one ; and renovation conserves our timber resources because it takes less ma- terial to rework an old structure than to build a new one. For many years the U.S. Depart- ment of Agriculture, specifically through the Forest Service, has been concerned with wise use of the Nation's timber resource. After that timber is harvested, a large amount goes into housing. There- fore, it is logical that research on wood houses has long been a part of the Forest Products Labo- ratory program. From experience have come some general considera- tions in regard to rehabilitating a wood-frame house. Whether a house is worth re- habilitating can be determined only by systematically inspecting the house and comparing the necessary repairs with the value of the finished product. If the foundation is good and the floor, wall, and roof framing are structurally sound, the house probably is worth rehabilitating, but a thorough inspection is still in order. General suggestions are also given later for examining heating, plumb- ing, and electrical systems; but professional help will probably be desirable. Some contractors will assist in determining the condition of the house and suggesting if repairs or replacements are re- quired. Local building code re- quirements must be met, and these vary. What seems to be a minor ad- dition or repair might require a major revamping of the entire structure for code compliance. In most communities a building official will inspect the house and indicate code violations. It takes considerable time to make a thorough examination. This may be no problem if you own the structure and can observe it at various times. However, if you are considering purchase of the building to renovate, you probably have limited time to make your evaluation. You do not have the time to watch and see if cracks are increasing or the basement might be flooded by spring rains. The only real answer is to be as ob- servant as possible, make your decisions carefully, and seek pro- fessional help when necessary. Key Points To Consider The first thing most of us notice about a house is its appearance — outside and inside. But as im- portant as appearance is, we need to look beyond it. How is the house arranged? And especially, what kind of condition is it in? Thus we get down to basics of appraising a house for rehabilitating. Consider these points in deciding whether a wood-frame building is worth reviving : 1 . Is the foundation good? 2. Is the house frame square and generally free from decay and insect damage? 3. Is the house arranged for good livability? 4. What might have to be done to bring it up to your standards? The following pages briefly sug- gest how these key points might be evaluated. Once you have a good basic structure, many avenues are open to improve its appearance and comfort. Painting and landscaping improve the appeal of any home. But the important thing is that the basic structure be good and that the house be restored to good condition for long life. BASIC STRUCTURE From a rehabilitation standpoint, the condition of the basic structure is the most important determina- tion you will make. A house with a good foundation and structural frame is usually worth reha- bilitating. Foundations Check the entire foundation for general condition. In particular, watch for uneven settling which may distort the house frame or even pull it apart (fig. 2). Such settlement may distort window and door frames, loosen interior finish and siding, and create cracks that invite outside air. A small amount of settling is not unusual, even in some newer struc- tures, but the degree is important. For instance, a single localized failure or minor settling that may be corrected by releveling beams or floor joists is no reason to feel the house is not worth rehabilitating. On the other hand, numerous failures and general uneven settling would suggest that a new founda- tion is required. If so, the odds are against the house being suitable for rehabilitation. Walls. — Many old houses have stone or brick foundations. Check the masonry foundation for cracks and crumbling mortar, a common defect that can often be repaired. Extensive deteriorations may in- dicate the need for major repair or replacement. Most foundation walls of poured concrete have minor hairline cracks that have little effect on the struc- ture ; however, open cracks indicate M-142 889 Figure 2. — Uneven foundation settle- ment: A, may result in a house badly out of square. Evidences may include B, eaveline distortion; C, sagging roof ridge; or D, loose-fitting frames or even binding windows. a failure that may get progressively worse. Houses that have a crawl space under them, instead of a basement, usually have a foundation wall or piers supporting the center of the floor joists. This support must be checked for cracks and settling, the same as the perimeter foundation. Damp basements. — Damp base- ment walls may require a major repair, especially if the basement space is to be used. The dampness may come from many sources — clogged drain tile, clogged or broken downspouts, cracks in walls, lack of slope of the finished grade away from the house foundation, or a high water table. If possible, check for dampness by examining the basement a few hours after a heavy rain. The most common source of dampness is from surface water flowing against the foundation wall. This might be from downspouts or surface drainage. Keeping water away from the foundation can best be accomplished by proper grading. A high water table is a more serious problem. There is little possibility of achieving a dry base- ment if water comes in at various times of the year. Heavy founda- tion waterproofing or footing drains may help, but it is unlikely they will do more than minimize the problem. Structural Wood Frame The building frame should be carefully examined to see if it is distorted from foundation failure (fig. 2) or from improper or in- adequate framing. It should also be checked for decay and insect damage. Recognizing decay damage. — Look for decay in any part of the house that is subject to prolonged wetting, such as wood close to the ground. Decay thrives in a mild temperature in wood that is wet. Even seeing fungal growth or wood that has lost its sheen and is abnormal in color does not indicate the extent of any damage. The two strength properties that decay reduces are hardness and toughness. Therefore, one way to determine the extent of damage is to prod the wood with a sharp tool to see if it mars easily, or to pry out a splinter to check on toughness. If toughness has been greatly reduced by decay, the wood may break across the grain with little splinter- ing and lift out with little resistance. Termite problems. — The main wood-attacking insects that might be a problem in wood-frame houses 6 are termites. Termites come in two forms: Subterranean termites, which must have access to the ground or other water source, and nonsubterranean termites, which do not need direct access to water. Subterranean termites often build earthen tubes on the surface of foundation walls as runways from the soil to the wood above. When the subterranean termites eat their way through the wood, they often follow the grain of wood, leaving galleries surrounded by an outer shell of sound wood. Nonsubterranean termites live in wood without such connections with the ground. In their paths through the wood, they cut freely across the grain, rather than follow- ing the grain as the subterranean termites do. These nonsubterranean termites exist only in warm climates and particularly along warm coastal areas. Combating these insects us- ually involves the services of pro- fessional exterminators. Floor supports. — In a house with a basement the floor is ultimately supported by wood or steel posts. Start by examining the posts. Wood posts should be supported on pedes- tals, rather than be embedded in the concrete floor where they may take on moisture that leads to decay. Examine the base of the wood posts for decay (fig. 3) even if they are set above the floor slab. Steel posts are normally supported on metal plates. Girders rest on top of these posts and should be checked for sag. Sag is permanent downward deflec- tion that can be noted especially near the middle of a structural member. Sag is seldom a problem with a steel beam, but it may be with wood beams. Some sag is common in permanently loaded wood beams, such as those support- ing a bathtub, a heavy appliance, or a partition. Even so, sag in a wood beam is usually an appear- ance problem rather than structural. Some deflection is normal and about %-inch deflection in a 10-foot span girder is acceptable in design. Unless parts of the house have obviously distorted, it is seldom important. Floor framing. — Sill plates, or joists and headers, rest on the girders and on top of the founda- tion. They are exposed to moisture from the concrete and are thus vulnerable to decay or insect attack. Wherever possible, examine these contact points and the entire floor framing system for decay and insect damage. Watch especially if the basement or crawl space is very damp. The floor joists that rest on the girders should also be examined for sag. Here too some sag can be M-143 309 Figure 3. — Check wood for decay at points of contact with concrete, such as: A, floor joists supported on con- crete walls; B, framing supported in a pocket in a concrete wall; and C, wood post supported on a concrete floor. expected and is not necessarily a sign of structural damage. It is usually not a serious problem in floor joists unless the foundation system has settled unevenly, caus- ing excessive deflection in parts of the floor system (fig. 4). Sag might be considered excessive if it is readily apparent. A floor may seem excessively springy when walking across it. This may be remedied by adding extra joists or girders to increase stiffness. Another point of particular con- cern is the framing of the floor joists around stair openings. Some builders estimate that 50 percent of the houses built have inadequate framing around stairs. Check floors around the opening for levelness. Where floors are sagging, the fram- ing should be carefully leveled and reinforced. Wall framing. — The usual stud wall normally has much more than adequate strength. It may be dis- torted, however, for reasons covered in preceding sections. Check open- ings for squareness by operating doors and windows to make sure they do not bind, but fit correctly. Some adjustments are possible but large distortions will require new framing. Also check for sag in headers over wide window openings or wide openings between rooms. Where the sag is readily noticeable, new headers will be required. M-149 840 Figure 4. — Badly sagging horizontal member A, has resulted in: B, uneven floor; C, cracked plaster; and D, poorly fitting door. (Defects accentuated to illustrate the problems.) 8 M-143 370 Figure 5. — Watch for sag at A, ridge; B, rafters; or C, sheathing. Rafters are frequently tied, as at ceiling joist, D, to prevent them from spreading outward. Flashing, E, is used at intersections of two roofs or between roof and vertical planes. Roof framing. — Examine the roof for sagging of the ridge, the rafters, and the sheathing (fig. 5). This is easily done by a visual observa- tion. If the ridge line is not straight or the roof is wavy, some repair may be necessary. The ridge will sag due to improper support, in- adequate ties at the plate level, or even from sagging of the rafters. Rafters will sag due to inadequate stiffness or because they were not well seasoned. If the sheathing sags, it may indicate the rafters are too far apart, strip sheathing is too thin, or plywood is too thin or has delaminated. NONSTRUCTURAL ESSENTIALS Good exterior and interior finish items, insulation, and mechanical equipment are essential from two standpoints : Your own living stand- ards and long service life from the structure. Replacement of some of these items may be expensive, but it is usually practical to add them to a house that is struc- turally sound. House Exterior Exterior wood on a house will last many years if it is kept free of moisture and given reasonable care. Failure of exterior finishes on siding or trim results most com- monly from excessive moisture in the wood. But finish failures may also be caused by poor paints, improper application of good paints, poor surface preparation, or incom- patible successive coatings. Excessive peeling may require complete removal of the paint. Since this can be very expensive, re-siding may be considered. How- ever, new siding will not solve the problem of moisture that con- denses in the walls during cold weather — condensation due to lack of a vapor barrier. Vapor barriers are discussed later. Siding and trim. — The main prob- lems with siding and trim stem from excessive moisture, which can enter from either inside or outside. 9 One main contributor is lack of roof overhang, which allows rain to run down the face of the wall. Moisture may also enter from the inside because of the lack of a vapor barrier and subsequent con- densation of water vapor within the wall. Look for space between hori- zontal siding boards by standing very close and sighting along the wall. Some cracks can be calked, but a general gapping or looseness may indicate new siding is required. If the boards are not badly warped , renailing may solve the problem. Check siding for decay where two boards are butted end to end, at corners, and around window and door frames. Decorative trim sometimes pre- sents unusual decay and mainte- nance problems, particularly where water may be trapped. Good shingle siding appears as a perfect mosaic, whereas worn shingles have a ragged appearance and close examination will show individual shingles to be broken, warped, and upturned. New siding will be required if shingles are badly weathered or worn. Brick or stone veneer may be cracked because the foundation had settled unevenly. Cracks can be grouted and joints repointed, but large or numerous cracks will be unsightly even after they are patched. The mortar also may be weak and crumbling, and joints may be incompletely filled or poorly fin- ished. If these faults are limited to a small area, it may be possible to correct them. For improved appear- ance, the veneer can be sandblasted. It is important to prevent water from entering a masonry wall or flowing over its face in any quan- tity. Examine flashing or calking at all projecting trim, copings, sills, and intersections of roof and walls. Plan to repair any of these places where flashing or calking is not pro- vided or where need of repair is apparent. Porous or soft brick or stone should be coated with a clear water repellent after care has been taken to see that no water can get behind the veneer. Roof. — Roof leaks should be ob- vious from damage inside the house. A look in the attic may also reveal water stains on the rafters, indi- cating small leaks that will eventu- ally cause damage. Damage inside the house is not always attributable to roofing, but could be caused by faulty flashing (fig. 5) or by con- densation. The most common roof covering, asphalt shingles, shows deteriora- tion by becoming brittle and losing surface granules. More important, however, is the wear that occurs in the narrow grooves between the tabs or sections of the shingle, or between two consecutive shingles in a row. This wear may extend com- pletely through to the roof boards. This is something to be inspected very carefully. As a guide, a good asphalt shingle should last 18 to 20 years. Wood shingles also find consid- erable use for covering pitched roofs and are most commonly of durable woods such as cedar. When many individual shingles are broken, warped, or upturned, the roof should be completely replaced even 10 though there is no evidence of leaking. A good wood shingle roof will last up to 30 years under favor- able conditions. Built-up roofing on flat- or low- sloped roofs should be examined by going onto the roof and looking for bare spots in the surfacing and for separations and breaks in the felt. Bubbles, blisters, or soft spots indi- cate that the roof needs major repairs. By contrast, alligatoring patterns on smooth-surface built-up roofs may not be a failure of the roof. The life of a built-up roof varies from 15 to 30 years, depend- ing on number of layers of felt and quality of application. Flashing (fig. 5) is sheet metal or other material used at intersections of wall or roof components to pre- vent water seeping in. Check for corroded flashing that should be re- placed. Likewise, check for corroded gutters and downspouts, which might even be helped by repainting. If the house has no roof overhang, consider adding one in remodeling, It will greatly reduce maintenance on siding and window trim and will prolong the finish on both. Windows. — Windows may present a difficult problem in old wood- frame houses. If they are loose fitting and not weather-stripped, they let in uncomfortable drafts and let heat out. Check the tight- ness of fit, and examine the sash and the sill for decay. Also check to see if the window opens and closes without binding. When considering the replace- ment of windows, check the window dimensions. If the window is not a standard size or if a different size is desired, the opening will have to be reframed or new sash must be made, both of which are expensive. Where openings are quite large, double-weight glass may be re- quired. In cold climates windows should be double glazed or have storm windows, both to reduce heat loss and avoid condensation. Again, if the windows are not a standard size, storm windows may be expen- sive. Doors. — Exterior doors should fit well without sticking. If the door frame is out of square due to foundation settlement or other rack- ing of the house frame, the opening will probably have to be reframed. The lower parts of exterior doors and storm doors are particularly susceptible to decay and should be carefully checked. Also observe the condition of the threshold, which may be worn, weathered, or de- cayed, and require replacement. Storm doors are necessary in cold climates, not only for heat saving and comfort, but also to avoid moisture condensation on or in the door and to protect the door from severe weather. Porches. — One house component vulnerable to decay and insect attack is the porch. Check to see if any wood is in contact with the soil — for instance the steps — and plan to correct that situation where- over it exists. Check all wood mem- bers for decay and insect damage. Give particular attention to the base of posts or any place where two members join and water might get into the joint. It may be worthwhile to replace a few mem- bers, but the porch that is generally 11 deteriorated should be completely rebuilt or removed. Chimneys and fireplaces. — The most obvious defect to look for in chimneys is cracks in the masonry or loose mortar. Such cracks are usually the result of foundation settlement or the attachment of television antennas or other items that put undue stress on the chimney. These cracks are a partic- ular hazard if the flue does 'not have a fireproof lining. The chimney should be supported on its own footing, not by the framework of the house. Look in the attic to see that ceiling and roof framing are no closer than 2 inches to the chimney. Either defect should be corrected immediately. If the house has a fireplace, check to see if it has an operating damper. Where no damper exists, one must be added to prevent heat loss up the flue when the fireplace is not in use. A fireplace that looks as if it has been used a lot probably draws well; however, you can check this by lighting a few sheets of newspaper on the hearth. A good fireplace Will draw immediately; a usable one will draw after about a minute. House Interior Interior surfaces deteriorate due to wear, distortion of the structure, and the presence of moisture. Some- times the problem is further com- plicated by the use of cheap or improper materials, improper appli- cation of wall coatings or floor surfaces, or excessive layers of wallpaper. Flooring. — In checking wood floors look for buckling or cupping of boards, which can result from high moisture content of the boards or wetting of the floor. Also notice if the boards are separated. This separation, which could come from shrinkage, is more probable if the flooring boards are wide. If the floor is generally smooth and without excessive separation between boards, refinishing may put it in good condition. But first, be sure the flooring is thick enough to permit sanding. Most flooring can- not be sanded more than two or three times; if floors are too thin to sand or have wide cracks, some type of new flooring will have to be added. Floors with resilient tile should be examined for loose tile, cracks between tile, broken corners, and chipped edges. See if any ridges or unevenness in the underlayment is showing through. If you replace any tile in a room, it often means re- placing all tiles because tile changes color with age and new tile will not match the old. Walls and ceilings. — The interior wall covering in old houses is usually plaster, but may be gypsum board in more recently built homes. Wood paneling is usually limited to one room or to a single wall or accent area. Plaster almost always has some hairline cracks, even in good con- dition. Minor cracks and holes can be patched, but a new wall covering should be applied if large cracks and holes are numerous, if the surface is generally uneven and bulging, or if 12 the plaster is loose in spots. The same general rule applies to ceilings. If walls have been papered, check the thickness of the paper. If more than two or three layers of paper are present, they should be removed before applying new paper. All wallpaper should be removed before painting. Paint may have built up to excessive thicknesses on walls and ceilings, or be badly chipped. If the surface is to be repainted, old paint will have to be removed, never a fast or simple task. Some old surfaces also may be covered with kalsomine, which also require con- siderable labor to recondition. Often the best solution may be to cover the old surface with a new panel material. Trim, cabinets, and doors. — Trim should have tight joints and fit closely to the walls. If the finish is worn but the surface is smooth, refinishing may be feasible. If the finish is badly chipped or checked, removing it will be laborious re- gardless of whether the new finish is to be a clear sealer or paint. Ob- viously, trim or cabinetry of plain design will be easier to refinish than that with ornately carved designs. Sometimes the only feasible ap- proach is to replace all the trim. Matching the existing trim is often difficult. If any trim is dam- aged, or it is necessary to move doors or windows, all trim in the room may have to be replaced. Small sections of special trim might be custom made but the cost and ef- fect should be compared with com- plete replacement. The problems with interior doors are much the same as those for exterior doors except there are no decay or threshold problems. Insulation and Control of Moisture Old houses are often drafty and cold, but this should not rule out remodeling an old house. Some ex- pense will be involved, but you can achieve a warm comfortable home. This is done primarily by reducing air leakage and by adding insula- tion. Many utility companies will conduct an energy audit and ad- vise you on retrofit needs and the expected payback time for various improvements. When these meas- ures are taken, moisture move- ment and control must be considered to prevent potential condensation problems. Air leakage. — Looking at the general condition and fit of win- dows and doors gives some indica- tion of airtightness. Weather- stripping is a relatively low-cost improvement and can do a lot to reduce air leakage. However, it may be wise to replace windows and doors that fit loosely, which would be a major expense. In cold climates, storm windows and storm doors are essential for re- duced air leakage, as well as added insulation for glass areas. Observe the degree of air leakage on a windy day by holding a lighted candle near windows, baseboards, electrical outlets, or light fixtures. The flame may flicker excessively or even be extinguished where there is a lot of air leakage. If extensive changes in the interior finish materials are planned, re- duction of air leakage may be pos- sible by the addition of complete 13 vapor retarders on walls and ceil- ings. Insulation. — Look in the attic to determine the amount of ceiling insulation present. The uninsulat- ed ceiling represents a large source of heat loss on cool days as well as a large source of heat gain on warm days. At least R-24 insula- tion should be provided for homes in mild climates and R-38 or more for those in cold climates. For most commercial insulations, this means about 8 inches for mild cli- mates and about 12 inches for cold climates. Wood-frame cavity walls should be fitted with insulation. It may be necessary to remove some siding and sheathing to determine if insu- lation is present. The addition of wall insulation to an existing house is more complicated and more costly than installing it at the time of construction; however, it is necessary for comfort as well as energy efficiency in the cold climates. Insulation is also needed under floors for crawl space houses in cold climates. Moisture control. — Most energy conservation measures require some consideration for moisture control. Tightening the house may result in higher indoor relative hu- midities and consequently more moisture being carried into wall cavities and attics by air leakage and by transfer through porous materials. If insulation was added sometime after the house was built, there is generally no vapor retarder in the walls or ceilings. This combination can result in condensation in wall cavities (fig. 6) and attics; however, in houses that have been retrofitted by em- ploying good practices, major mois- ture problems have not developed. In cases where condensation does occur, it can result in paint peel- ing, streaking, buckling of siding, or decaying of roof sheathing. COLD AIR FREE_ WATER X WATER VAPOR VAPOR RETARDER COLD AIR M-143 368 Figure (i. — Vapor retarders reduce mosi- ture problems in new construction but are seldom present in houses built before the mid-1930's. A. Without vapor retard- er, water vapor from the room moves through the wall and condenses on the back of cold sheathing or siding. B. Vapor retarder has greatly reduced moisture movement into the walls. The single most important mois- ture control measure is the main- tenance of indoor humidity at a reasonably low level during cold weather. In most older homes, moisture will not reach high levels during cold weather without me- chanical humidification. Eliminat- ing humidification, or setting it no higher than 35 percent relative hu- 14 midity, will usually prevent seri- ous condensation problems in the structure even though vapor re- tarders have not been installed. Most older walls and ceilings have several coats of oil-base paint that act as a vapor retarder. Where oil-base paint has not been used, a commercial vapor retarder paint could be applied, especially in high humidity areas such as bathrooms and kitchens. If new gypsum board or paneling is planned, a complete vapor retard- er can be added before the new finish material is installed. Check in crawl spaces for a va- por retarder laid on top of the soil. If there is none and the crawl space seems quite damp, add a va- por retarder. Also check for open- ings that allow air movement from basement or crawl space into wall cavities. Block such openings to keep damp air out of the walls. It is not easy to determine if vapor retarders exist under con- crete floor slabs. If the floor seems damp most of the time, there prob- ably is no vapor retarder. To be sure of a dry finish floor, a vapor retarder would have to be added on top of the slab with a new finish floor applied over it. Venting to let moisture escape is required in the attic and in the crawl space. The degree of damp- ness indicates the general adequa- cy of this venting; however, adding insulation will make these spaces colder and may require more vent- ing to prevent condensation. Without a ceiling vapor re- tarder, substantial moisture passes from the house into the attic; it condenses as the moist air contacts the cold roof members. For good circulation of air through all the attic area, locate both inlet and outlet vents properly. These vents not only help keep the attic dry in winter, but keep hot air moving out of the attic during summer and help cool the house. Observe the size and location of crawl space vents. For optimum cross ventilation and minimum dead air space, locate at least four vents near building corners. The use of a soil cover reduces the vent- ing requirement. Mechanical Questionmarks Because many of the plumbing, heating, and wiring systems in a house are concealed, it may be difficult to determine their ade- quacy. For the same reason it is difficult to make major changes without considerable cutting of wall surfaces and, in some situa- tions, even structural members. In a very old house the mechani- cal systems may have to be re- placed; this quickly becomes a major item in the cost of rehabilita- tion. At the same time, properly installed new systems will add to the comfort and convenience of the house. One bonus can be the dramatic recovery of space and improved appearance of the base- ment when an old "octopus" grav- ity warm air heating system is replaced by a forced-air system. Building code provisions relating to mechanical systems should be carefully checked. Plumbing. — Check several fau- cets to see if the flow of water is adequate. If there is any question, 15 inspect pipes carefully to be certain the service is large enough. The main distribution pipes should be %-inch inside diameter but branch lines may be %-inch inside diameter. Sizes can be checked easily. Intidt Will be OuUkU Copper pipes W %" Copper pipes x /*!' %" Galvanized pipes... %" %" Galvanized pipes... %" l%" Water pressure is important. If the supply is from a municipal system, the pressure in the mains will be all right. However, if the house has its own water system, pressure can be a problem. Check the gage on the pressure tank, which should read a minimum of 20 and preferably 40 to 50 pounds. Anything less will indicate that the pump is not operating properly, or that the pressure setting is too low. The water from any private well should be tested for purity even though the well has been in con- tinuous use. Plumbing fixtures that are quite old may be rust stained and require replacement, or it may be desirable to replace them just for appearance. Check for leaks in the water supply system. Rust or white or greenish crusting of pipe or joints may indicate leaks. Check 3hutoff valves at the serv- ice entrance and at various points in the system to determine if they have become frozen with age^ or little use. Additional supply and drain lines may be desirable in modernizing a house. Keep in mind any new lines that may be required for automatic washers, added baths, adequate sill cocks, or in reorganizing the layout. Heating water in a hot water heating system may be satisfactory, but a water heating coil in a hot air furnace seldom provides enough hot water. Also, it requires a sep- arate system during summer months when the hot air heating is not needed. A gas water heater should have at least a 30-gallon capacity and preferably more. An electric water heater should have a capacity of 50 gallons or more. The drainage system consists of the sewer lateral (drainage line between the house and the street), the underfloor drains, the drainage pipes above the floor, and the vents. Pipes may have become clogged or broken or they may be of inade- quate size. Venting in particular may be inadequate and far below code requirements. About the only quick check is to flush fixtures to see if drains are sluggish. Note any excessive suc- tion when a toilet is flushed. Run the water for a few minutes to check for clogged drain lines between the house and the sewer main. If a private sewage system is involved, learn what you can about the adequacy of the drain field. If a new drainage field is needed, some codes require percolation tests of the soil. Heating. — Changes in heating systems and concepts of comfort outdate the heating systems in most old houses. Central heating with heat piped to all rooms is considered a necessity in all but very small houses. A quick inspection of the heating system will seldom show much beyond the kind of system and 16 apparent condition. The only way to check the adequacy of the system satisfactorily is through use. If the system provides the desired degree of comfort, then check the furnace or boiler for overall general condi- tion. If you have a question, seek professional help. Electrical. — So many new elec- trical appliances have come into common use in recent years that many old houses do not have adequate wiring to accommodate them. Therefore, the first electrical item to check is the service. The service should be at least 100 amperes for the average three - bedroom house. If the house is large or if air conditioning is added, the service should be 200 amperes. If the main distribution panel has room for circuits, additional cir- cuits can be added to supply power where there is a shortage. Otherwise another distribution panel may be added. Examine electrical wiring wher- ever possible. Some wiring is usually exposed in the attic or basement. Wiring should also be checked at several wall receptacles or fixtures. If any armored cable or conduit is badly rusted, or if wiring or cable insulation is deteriorated, damaged, brittle, or crumbly, the house wiring has probably de- teriorated from age or overloading and should be replaced. At least one electrical outlet on each wall of a room and two or more on long walls is desirable. Ceiling lights should have a wall switch, and rooms without a ceiling light should have a wall switch near the door for at least one outlet. ARRANGEMENT AND APPEARANCE The value of the house being considered for reconditioning, and the convenience and pleasure of using it over many years, are strongly affected by the layout and appearance. Consider the adequacy of room size, the relationship of areas to each other, convenience, the pattern of traffic, and individual privacy. Conceivably many houses will not lend themselves to an ideal arrangement without excessive cost, but adequate living conditions may be possible with some sacrifice in arrangement. Traffic Patterns in House Observe the probable traffic pat- terns through the house. The gen- eral rule is to avoid traffic through rooms. If this cannot be prevented, at least keep traffic at one side of a room rather than through the center. The traffic picture might be improved simply by moving doors to the corners of rooms or by placing furniture in a manner to direct traffic where it will be least ob- jectionable. Layout Ideally, houses should have rooms arranged in three areas — the private or bedroom area, the work area of kitchen and utility rooms, and the relaxation area of dining and living rooms. A family room, a den, or a 17 recreation room may exist in or between those general areas. The den should be out of the general circulation areas and, if it is part of the bedroom area, may double as a guest room. A recreation room in the basement can serve some of the same functions as a family room. Work area. — Most critical is the location of the kitchen in relation to other areas of the house. The kitchen must be directly accessible to the dining area as well as to the garage or driveway for ease in unloading groceries. A kitchen near the utility room is also convenient, because work is often in progress in the kitchen and utility room at the same time. If possible, traffic should not pass through the range- refrigerator-sink triangle. The size of the kitchen is im- portant. There was a period when kitchens were made small with the idea that this was con- venient. Now the many modern appliances that commonly go into a kitchen, as well as the inclusion of a breakfast area, require much more space. If the kitchen is too small, a major addition or alteration will be necessary. A coat closet near the kitchen entrance and some facility for washing up near the work area are desirable. However, in the small house neither may be feasible. Private area. — The bedroom and bathroom area should be separated as much as possible, both visually and acoustically from the living and work areas. Every bedroom should be acces- sible to a bathroom without going through another room, and at least one bathroom should be accessible to work and relaxation areas with- out going through a bedroom. One of the basic rules of privacy is to avoid traffic through one bedroom to another. If this privacy is not presently provided, some changes in layout may be desirable. Check the size of bedrooms. It is desirable to have a floor area of at least 125 square feet for a double bed and 150 square feet for twin beds. Smaller bedrooms can be very usable, but consider limita- tions for furnishing them. Relaxation area. — The relaxation area is usually at the front of an older house, but rooms at the side or rear may be used, particularly if this provides a view into a land- scaped yard. If the house has a small parlor or a living room and dining room separated by an arch, consider removing partitions or arches to give a more spacious feeling. Where load-bearing par- titions are to be removed, added support (such as a beam) will be required. Professional help may be necessary to determine this. The main entrance is usually at or near the living area. Check for a coat closet near this entrance. Also desirable is a passage into the work area without going through the living room, or at least not more than a corner or end of the room. Appearance Many people will agree that the appearance of a house is important but fewer may agree on what they 18 like. Because taste is largely a personal matter, only basic guide- lines will be given here. Simplicity and unity are the major considera- tions. A good "period" style may be worth preserving. In fact, a house possessing the quaUty commonly referred to as "charm" may be appraised 5 to 10 percent higher than plainer ones. However, style or charm can assume less impor- tance after you live for awhile with inconvenience, discomforts, or constant repairs. Simplicity is one of the first principles. Observe the main lines of the house. Some variety adds interest, but numerous roof lines at a variety of slopes present a busy, confused appearance. Strong hori- zontal lines are usually desirable in a conventional residence to give the appearance of being "tied to the ground." Strong vertical lines tend to make a house look tall and unstable. List the number of materials used as siding. There should never be more than three, and not more than two would be preferable. Look at the trim and see if it seems to belong with the house or is just stuck on as ornamentation. Unity is as important as sim- plicity. The house should appear to be a unit, not a cluster of unrelated components. Windows and trim should be in keeping with the style of the house. Windows should be of the same type and of a very limited number of sizes. Shutters should be one-half the width of the window so that, if closed, they would cover the window. Porches and garages should blend with the house rather than appear as attachments. FINAL EVALUATION After you have completely ex- amined the house for renovation, listed any repairs necessary, and considered the intangibles, evaluate your findings. Some general guides for evaluating the information are presented here; however, use judg- ment in drawing your conclusions. Major Reasons for Rejection Throughout the discussion, some major reasons have been given for rejecting a house for renovation. These reasons are restated : 1. The foundation may be com- pletely unrepairable. Houses are occasionally moved onto a new foundation, but this is generally not economical unless the house is otherwise in extremely good condition. 2. If the entire frame of the house is considerably out of square, or if the framing is generally decayed or termite infested, the house is probably not worth renovating. 3. If numerous components must be replaced, or major repairs and replacements combined are numer- ous, the suitability for renovation is questionable. Guideposts for the Final Decision If the foundation and frame are in reasonable condition, and the re- 19 pair and replacement items do not appear excessive, base a final de- cision on the following factors: Cost. — If the cost of buying and renovating the house does not exceed the fair market value of houses in the area, it is a sound investment. A general rule-of- thumb for a house presently owned is that the rehabilitation cost should not exceed two-thirds of the cost of a comparable new house. The cost can be arrived at in two ways: A. If the work is to be done on a fixed price contract, the contractor's bid will give you a definite figure. However, this figure should be increased about 10 percent for unforeseen extras. B. If you (as the owner) plan to do most of the work and are concerned with the economics of the project, first get bids on items that will be done by others. Second, figure the cost of all materials for work you would do. Third, esti- mate your labor time and establish costs using a fair hourly rate. If you are not experienced in building construction, increase your labor estimate by 50 percent because much time is lost in doing work a little at a time. There is also a strong tendency to underestimate. Location. — A particularly good location would be justification for spending more; a generally un- desirable or deteriorating location would indicate that much less than two-thirds the cost of the new house should be spent. Sentimental value. — If there are sentimental attachments, the value of the renovated house must be decided by the individual con- cerned. However, neither the fi- nance company nor a prospective buyer will allow anything for senti- mental value. A Caution Projects go very slowly when worked on by one individual in his spare time. If the house is to be occupied immediately or at the earliest possible moment, do the necessary items at once and then plan to work in "projects" with a breather space between them. No- body wants to live in a mess continually, and nobody can work continuously without risking having the project "go sour." Be as realistic as possible. It will increase the enjoyment of the work and the satisfaction of the finished home. Also, consider that your ideas may change after you move into the house. Your Own Feelings After considering all these points, your personal feelings and needs about a house must be recognized. For instance, you may be satisfied by a remodeled kitchen instead of desiring a completely new one. Each member of the family has activities that may require special considerations. Even the part of the country you live in affects how you use your indoor-outdoor space. Ultimately, you may come to the decision that "we must have more room." Generally you will consider better use of the present structure — expansion into attic, basement, or garage. But after exhausting these possibilities, you may decide you have to add on a room or a new section. This opens 20 up new possibilities to meet your unique needs. In the final analysis, these de- cisions depend on some personal feelings that are not necessarily expressible in terms of logic. You need the sound information on which to base the choice, but ultimately it is your own decision on what will work best for you ADDITIONAL INFORMATION Further information on building and use of wood is available in a number of U.S. Department of Agriculture publications prepared by the Forest Products Laboratory. Copies may be purchased from the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Wash- ington, D.C. 20402. Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material. U.S. Dep. Agric, Agric. Handb. 72. Rev. 1974. Stock No. 0100-03200. Wood-Frame House Construction. U.S. Dep. Agric, Agric. Handb. No. 73. Rev. 1970. Stock No. 0100-1232. Construction Guides for Exposed Wood Decks. U.S. Dep. Agric, Agric. Handb. No. 432. 1972. Stock No. 0100-2577. Selection and Use of Wood Products for Home and Farm Building. U.S. Dep. Agric, Agric. Inf. Bull. No. 311. Rev.. 1972. Stock No. 0100-2501. Wood Siding — Installing, Finishing, Maintaining. U.S. Dep. Agric. Home and Garden Bull. No. 203. 1973. Stock No. 0100-02680. Condensation Problems in Your House: Prevention and Solution. U.S. Dep. Agric, Agric. Inf. Bull. No. 373. 1974. Stock No. 0100- 03318. Principles for Protecting Wood Buildings from Decay. U.S. Dep. Agric, For. Serv. Res. Pap. FPL 190. 1973. Stock No. 0101-00362. Information is also available from many other sources. Most libraries have books dealing with some aspect of rebuilding and refurbishing. In addition, several well-known magazines devote considerable space to allied subjects. The use of trade, firm, or corporation names in this publication is for the information and convenience of the reader. Such use does not constitute an official endorsement or approval by the U.S. Department of Agriculture of any product or service to the exclusion of others which may be suitable. 21 ■ft U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1985 O - 465-814 ; QL 3 UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA llllllllllllli 3 1262 08855 7003