A 631.4975 re.:. _______________ U ! GLOSSARY OF SOIL TERMS ACTINOMYCETES. A group of soil microorganisms producing an extensive threadlike network of mycelia. Although these microorganisms resemble soil molds in some respects, they are more like bacteria in size. They thrive in sweet soils that are well aerated. AERATION, SOIL. The exchange of air in soil with air from the atmos- phere. The composition of air in a well-aerated soil is similar to that in the atmcsl here. In a poorly aerated soil, the air is considerably higher in carl n dioxide and lower in oxygen than the atmosphere above. AIR-DRY SOIL. Soil that is dried in the open atmosphere. Air-dry soil will have a iall moisture content controlled by the hur dity. AMMONIFICATI-N. Formation of ammonium compounds ia soils by soil organisms. AVAILABLE NUTRIENTS. The part of the supply of a plant nutrient in the soil that can be taken up by plants at rates and in amounts signifi- cant to plant growth. BOG SOILS. Soils developed under swamp or marsh types of vegetation, mostly in a humid or subhumid climate. CALCAREOUS SOIL. Soils high in calcium carbonate (often with mag- nesium carbonate) having an alkaline reaction due to the presence of free calcium carbonate. CATENA, SOIL. A group of soils within a specific soil zone. Although formed from similar parent material, they are unlike because of drain- age and slope. CHELATE. Organic compounds that combine with iron and other heavy metals (most of which are minor elements), holding them in such a way that, when in contact with the soil, they are released slowly. These chelated elements are not fixed or made unavailable when in contact with other chemical compounds in the soil. CLEANED TILLED. This refers to row crops that are cultivated in be- tween the rows, such as corn, beans, etc. The soil is kept stirred and free of weed growth. ..  COLLOID, SOIL. A term used with reference to matter, both inorganic and organic. Colloidal particles, microscopic in size, have a large sur- face area per unit mass. Many mineral soil colloids are actually tiny crystals. Under certain conditions, soil colloids form a more or less stable suspension or dispersion in water. Membranes allowing the passage of chemical ions are too small for the passage of colloidal particles. CONTOUR FURRows. Furrows plowed at right angles to the direction of a slope. These furrows, level from one end to the other, are used to les- sen runoff of surface water. DECOMPOSITION, SOIL. The destruction of plant and animal remains by soil microorganisms for the purpose of supplying food, energy, and tis- sue building material for their life needs. Remains of both decomposed material and living and dead microbial cells constitute organic matter of the soil. DUFF. The surface layer of organic matter in forest soils. This mat or surface litter is only slightly decomposed. FOLLAR FEEDING. A method of fertilizing plants by spraying fertilizer in solution form over the foliage. FRIABLE. Easily crumbled in the fingers; nonplastic. GERMINATION. The sprouting of seeds or microbial spores in the soil. HARDPAN. A hardened or cemented soil horizon. HEAVY SOIL. Soils containing large amounts of silt and clay. The term refers to the difficulty of working this type of soil and not to actual weight. HORIzON, SOIL. A layer of soil, with more or less well-defined character- istics, approximately parallel to the surface of the land. These charac- teristics have developed through normal weathering processes. LATERAL FEEDING ROOTs. Any of those plant roots extending out from the plant at right angles, parallel to the soil surface. Generally, the ma- jority of feeding roots are found near the surface of the soil. LEACHING. Removal of materials in solution, such as the removal of plant food elements in the soil solution, by leaching rains. LEGUME. Any of those plants, both cultivated and wild, bearing their seeds in pods, and having legume bacteria nodulation on their roots. Because of their ability to remove nitrogen from the air and add it to their tissue-building process, these highly prized plants are used for food and green manure crops. The protein content of legumes is higher than most cultivated plants. Rhizobium bacteria, living symbiotically with the plant and making their home on its roots, are able to fix free nitrogen from the atmosphere, thereby supplying it to both themselves and the plant. LIGHT SOILS. This term indicates that the soil is sandy in nature and Is easily worked. MICROBE. A common term given to soil microorganisms or living or- ganisms in the soil that cannot be seen with the unaided eye. CONTINUED ON REAR ENDLEAVES  Your Florida Garden SOILS Your Florida Garden SOILS Your Florida Garden SOILS   YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 500 Questions and Answers by SETON N. EDSON 500 Questions and Answers by SETON N. EDSON 500 Questions and Answers by SETON N. EDSON UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA PRESS Gainesville 1963 UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA PRESS Gainesville 1963 UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA PRESS Gainesville 1963  L aF s* I85b 0/ aiF Z ti - A University of Florida Press Book KNOW YOURt ELORIDA SoERsES Or SToTE ITITUsOS Or FORIDAs All righsts reserved. No pars of this booh mnay be reprodued in any forms witsoot permsission in writing from i/se puts/issor, except by arver w/so niches to qooe brief passages in cosnnection nit/s a revion written for inc/osion in rmagazines or nenspapers. Library of Cosngrest Catalogue Card N/o.: 63-21504 RIsNTEDoB THEsILLERoPRSS, JACnKSOVLL,FORIDA ROno BY NIVRSttAL 1000 BIND0ERY, JAO.OtNVoILLE, FLtOIDA A University of Florida Press Book KNOW YOUR FLeORDA SERISo CoOYRIGHT 1963 oY THE BOARD OF COMIoSSIONERS On STAon ITTTOS On FL~ORIDAc All rights reseroed. No part of this bosh smsy be reproduced in ay forms nitsoot vermission in nriting from i/se publishser, except by a rvee n/so nis/ses so quote brief passages in connection nith a revinw nritten for inc/sion in maisgazinses or nespapers. Library of Congress Catalogue Cord No.: 63-21504 RIsONE BY TE sILE annoESS, JACONoVILLE, FORIDAto BOUN BY rott UNIVRSA DII tBNDERY, JSONVILLE~s,FLRA A University of Florida Press Book KNOW YOUR FLORIDA SERIES CnOYRGHO 1963 BY THE BOARD On COMIS~SIoONR A/l rig/sts reserved. No part of this bosh may be reprodneed in any forsm nitsoot permoission in noising frosm i/sn psublisher, assept by arvee nwho nishes to qote brief passages in csonnection nith a revien nritten for inc/lusiont in mtagazsines or newspapers. Library of Congress Catalogoe Card No.: 63-21504 PRITE BY n THE in MILE otES, JAONsVsILLE,FLRD nov00 no NIsVERSL DIXIa BsNonoY, JACKStONVIEtt, FL.ORIoA  Foreword F LORIDA HOMEOWNERS have come to the Sun- shine State from all parts of the nation. Almost without exception, they are at a loss to know how to manage the soil they acquire here, soils so different from those back home. Most will have to develop com- pletely new concepts of soil management and, in so doing, need guidance. Now, in YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs, Floridians have a dependable guide-book. Over five-hundred questions and answers on soil types, reaction, soil improvement, fertilization, drainage, and irrigation most frequently asked by Florida home- owners make up this guide. Answers were written by Seton N. Edson, Associate Professor of Soils at the University of Florida, who has had long experience as a university teacher, county agricultural agent, lecturer, award- winning researcher, and home gardener. His simple, lucid an- swers are based upon latest findings in research laboratories, as well as upon tried and true practices that have stood the test of time. Foreword F LORIDA HOMEOWNERS have come to the Sun- shine State from all parts of the nation. Almost without exception, they are at a loss to know how to manage the soil they acquire here, soils so different from those back home. Most will have to develop com- pletely new concepts of soil management and, in so doing, need guidance. Now, in YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS, Floridians have a dependable guide-book. Over five-hundred questions and answers on soil types, reaction, soil improvement, fertilization, drainage, and irrigation most frequently asked by Florida home- owners make up this guide. Answers were written by Seton N. Edson, Associate Professor of Soils at the University of Florida, who has had long experience as a university teacher, county agricultural agent, lecturer, award- winning researcher, and home gardener. His simple, lucid an- swers are based upon latest findings in research laboratories, as well as upon tried and true practices that have stood the test of time. Foreword FLORIDA HOMEOWNERS have come to the Sun- shine State from all parts of the nation. Almost without exception, they are at a loss to know how to manage the soil they acquire here, soils so different from those back home. Most will have to develop com- pletely new concepts of soil management and, in so doing, need guidance. Now, in YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs, Floridians have a dependable guide-book. Over five-hundred questions and answers on soil types, reaction, soil improvement, fertilization, drainage, and irrigation most frequently asked by Florida home- owners make up this guide. Answers were written by Seton N. Edson, Associate Professor of Soils at the University of Florida, who has had long experience as a university teacher, county agricultural agent, lecturer, award- winning researcher, and home gardener. His simple, lucid an- swers are based upon latest findings in research laboratories, as well as upon tried and true practices that have stood the test of time.  vi FoREwoRD vi FOREWORD vi FOREWORD YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS: 500 QUESTIONS AND AN- SWERS, an addition to the KNOW YOUR FLORIDA SERIES, is most warmly commended to all who garden in the Sunshine State. YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS: 500 QUESTIONS AND AN- SWERS, an addition to the KNOW YOUR FLORIDA SERIES, is most warmly commended to all who garden in the Sunshine State. YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS: 500 QUESTIONS AND AN- SWERS, an addition to the KNOW YOUR FLORIDA SERIES, is most warmly commended to all who garden in the Sunshine State. Gainesville, Florida November 25, 1963 JOHN V. WATRINS Professor Emeritus University of Florida Gainesville, Florida November 25, 1963 JOHN V. WATEINS Professor Emeritus University of Florida Gainesville, Florida November 25, 1963 JOHN V. WATKINS Professor Emeritus University of Florida  Contents Glossary of Soil Term s FRONT ENDLEAVES Foreword by JOHN V. WATKINS V Illustrations and Charts viii Introductory Note ix CHAPTER 1. Florida's Soils 1 2. Conservation 16 3. Fertility, Management, and Plant Growth 25 4. Organic Matter, Mulches, and Composts 62 5. Moisture and Temperature 78 6. Fertilizers 90 7: Testing and Control of Acidity 103 8. Hunger Signs in Garden Plants 117 9. Friendly Organisms and Their Care 126 10. Harmful Organisms and Their Control 135 Index 147 Glossary of Soil Terms (continued) REAR ENDLEAVES Contents Glossary of Soil Terms FRONT EN Foreword by JOHN V. WATKINS Illustrations and Charts Introductory Note CHAPTER 1. Florida's Soils 2. Conservation 3. Fertility, Management, and Plant Growth 4. Organic Matter, Mulches, and Composts 5. Moisture and Temperature 6. Fertilizers 7: Testing and Control of Acidity 8. Hunger Signs in Garden Plants 9. Friendly Organisms and Their Care 10. Harmful Organisms and Their Control DLEAVES viii ix 1 16 25 62 78 90 103 117 126 135 Contents Glossary of Soil Terms Foreword by JOHN V. WATKINS Illustrations and Charts Introductory Note CHAPTER 1. Florida's Soils FRONT ENDLEAVES V viii ix 1 2. Conservation 16 3. Fertility, Management, and Plant Growth 25 4. Organic Matter, Mulches, and Composts 62 5. Moisture and Temperature 78 6. Fertilizers 90 7. Testing and Control of Acidity 103 8. Hunger Signs in Garden Plants 117 9. Friendly Organisms and Their Care 126 10. Harmful Organisms and Their Control 135 Index 147 Glossary of Soil Terms (continued) REAR ENDLEAVES vii Index 147 Glossary of Soil Terms (continued) REAR ENDLEAVES Vii vii  ILLUSTRATIONS Soil Profile Familiar Names of Florida Soils Central Florida Drainage Catena Soil and Water Losses Fertilizer Placement Fertilizing a Shade Tree Making Seed Furrow and Covering Fertilizer A Practical Compost Bin A Superior Potting Mix The Moisture Cycle Use a Good Mechanical Sprinkler Taking a Soil Sample Reading the pH Scale Typical Iron Deficiency Symptoms The Essential Elements for Plant Growth CHARTS HOW TO MAKE AND USE YOUR OWN SOIL ACIDITY TESTING EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED AMOUNTS OF FERTILIZERS FOR FLORIDA GARDENS APPROXIMATE AMOUNTS OF PURE GROUND AGRI- CULTURAL LIMESTONE REQUIRED TO RAISE THE PH VALUE FOR DIFFERENT SOILS pH PREFERENCE FOR GARDEN PLANTS Viii 2 8 10 22 34 38 45 64 66 80 82 104 109 118 123 143 144 144 145 ILLUSTRATIONS Soil Profile Familiar Names of Florida Soils Central Florida Drainage Catena Soil and Water Losses Fertilizer Placement Fertilizing a Shade Tree Making Seed Furrow and Covering Fertilizer A Practical Compost Bin A Superior Potting Mix The Moisture Cycle Use a Good Mechanical Sprinkler Taking a Soil Sample Reading the pH Scale Typical Iron Deficiency Symptoms The Essential Elements for Plant Growth CHARTS HOW TO MAKE AND USE YOUR OWN SOIL ACIDITY TESTING EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED AMOUNTS OF FERTILIZERS FOR FLORIDA GARDENS APPROXIMATE AMOUNTS OF PURE GROUND AGRI- CULTURAL LIMESTONE REQUIRED TO RAISE THE PH VALUE FOR DIFFERENT SOILS PH PREFERENCE FOR GARDEN PLANTS viii 2 8 10 22 34 38 45 64 66 80 82 104 109 118 123 143 144 144 145 ILLUSTRATIONS Soil Profile Familiar Names of Florida Soils Central Florida Drainage Catena Soil and Water Losses Fertilizer Placement Fertilizing a Shade Tree Making Seed Furrow and Covering Fertilizer A Practical Compost Bin A Superior Potting Mix The Moisture Cycle Use a Good Mechanical Sprinkler Taking a Soil Sample Reading the pH Scale Typical Iron Deficiency Symptoms The Essential Elements for Plant Growth CHARTS HOW TO MAKE AND USE YOUR OWN SOIL ACIDITY TESTING EQUIPMENT SUGGESTED AMOUNTS OF FERTILIZERS FOR FLORIDA GARDENS APPROXIMATE AMOUNTS OF PURE GROUND AGRI- CULTURAL LIMESTONE REQUIRED TO RAISE THE pH VALUE FOR DIFFERENT SOILS PH PREFERENCE FOR GARDEN PLANTS Viii 2 8 10 22 34 38 45 64 66 80 82 104 109 118 123 143 144 144 145  Introductory Note A S WE ARE WELL AWARE, the importance of soil and its care are basic to plant growth-in- deed for life itself. Becoming acquainted with the soil in one's own area is a prime requisite in making the most of a home garden. Failure to understand it, because of lack of knowledge of soil management, climatic condi- tions, disease, and insect problems lays the foundation for hun- dreds of questions. Florida's sunshine and healthful climate have filled its borders with residents from every corner of our continent. Many of these new citizens, among them the retired, want to try their luck at gardening. Along with many of its native residents, they do not realize the profound differences that exist between soils of Florida and soils found in other parts of the nation. Without some knowl- edge of conditions prevailing, their efforts soon result in failure and discouragement. For the last twelve years, the author has received countless questions concerning Florida soils from agricultural workers, home gardeners, vocational teachers, county agents, students, and others. ix Introductory Note AS WE ARE WELL AWARE, the importance of soil and its care are basic to plant growth-in- deed for life itself. Becoming acquainted with the soil in one's own area is a prime requisite in making the most of a home garden. Failure to understand it, because of lack of knowledge of soil management, climatic condi- tions, disease, and insect problems lays the foundation for hun- dreds of questions. Florida's sunshine and healthful climate have filled its borders with residents from every corner of our continent. Many of these new citizens, among them the retired, want to try their luck at gardening. Along with many of its native residents, they do not realize the profound differences that exist between soils of Florida and soils found in other parts of the nation. Without some knowl- edge of conditions prevailing, their efforts soon result in failure and discouragement. For the last twelve years, the author has received countless questions concerning Florida soils from agricultural workers, home gardeners, vocational teachers, county agents, students, and others. ix Introductory Note AS WE ARE WELL AWARE, the importance of soil and its care are basic to plant growth-in- deed for life itself. Becoming acquainted with the soil in one's own area is a prime requisite in making the most of a home garden. Failure to understand it, because of lack of knowledge of soil management, climatic condi- tions, disease, and insect problems lays the foundation for hun- dreds of questions. Florida's sunshine and healthful climate have filled its borders with residents from every corner of our continent. Many of these new citizens, among them the retired, want to try their luck at gardening. Along with many of its native residents, they do not realize the profound differences that exist between soils of Florida and soils found in other parts of the nation. Without some knowl- edge of conditions prevailing, their efforts soon result in failure and discouragement. For the last twelve years, the author has received countless questions concerning Florida soils from agricultural workers, home gardeners, vocational teachers, county agents, students, and others. ix  X INTRODUCTORY NOTE From these inquiries he has compiled over 500 of the most fre- quently asked questions which should appeal to the home gar- dener. Accurate answers to many of them are not easily found. Therefore, to fulfill the need for answers under one cover, YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs: 500 QUESTIONs AND ANSWERs, was written. To enable the average gardener to understand without difficulty, questions and answers are kept in simple terms, with attention focused on home garden conditions. For further answers and excellent reading, numerous references are given to material available from the County Agricultural Agent's Office, the Uni- versity of Florida Agricultural Extension Service, and state and federal agricultural bulletins. The author is indebted to his associates of the College of Ag- riculture, University of Florida, and to Florida's County Agricul- tural Agents for their assistance in developing this book. Useful suggestions and comments were provided by Dr. F. B. Smith, Head of the Department of Soils, Dr. George D. Thornton, As- sistant Dean, College of Agriculture, Dr. O. C. Ruelke, Assistant Professor of Agronomy, Soil Surveyor Ralph G. Leighty, and Professor John V. Watkins, who read and criticized various chap- ters in the book. Special recognition is given to Mr. Tom Lay for his excellent illustrations and to the author's wife, Margaret, who served as consultant, critic, and proofreader. X INTRODUCTORY NOTE From these inquiries he has compiled over 500 of the most fre- quently asked questions which should appeal to the home gar- dener. Accurate answers to many of them are not easily found. Therefore, to fulfill the need for answers under one cover, YoUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs: 500 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERs, was written. To enable the average gardener to understand without difficulty, questions and answers are kept in simple terms, with attention focused on home garden conditions. For further answers and excellent reading, numerous references are given to material available from the County Agricultural Agent's Office, the Uni- versity of Florida Agricultural Extension Service, and state and federal agricultural bulletins. The author is indebted to his associates of the College of Ag- riculture, University of Florida, and to Florida's County Agricul- tural Agents for their assistance in developing this book. Useful suggestions and comments were provided by Dr. F. B. Smith, Head of the Department of Soils, Dr. George D. Thornton, As- sistant Dean, College of Agriculture, Dr. O. C. Ruelke, Assistant Professor of Agronomy, Soil Surveyor Ralph G. Leighty, and Professor John V. Watkins, who read and criticized various chap- ters in the book. Special recognition is given to Mr. Tom Lay for his excellent illustrations and to the author's wife, Margaret, who served as consultant, critic, and proofreader. X INTRODUCTORY NOTE From these inquiries he has compiled over 500 of the most fre- quently asked questions which should appeal to the home gar- dener. Accurate answers to many of them are not easily found. Therefore, to fulfill the need for answers under one cover, YoUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs: 500 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS, was written. To enable the average gardener to understand without difficulty, questions and answers are kept in simple terms, with attention focused on home garden conditions. For further answers and excellent reading, numerous references are given to material available from the County Agricultural Agent's Office, the Uni- versity of Florida Agricultural Extension Service, and state and federal agricultural bulletins. The author is indebted to his associates of the College of Ag- riculture, University of Florida, and to Florida's County Agricul- tural Agents for their assistance in developing this book. Useful suggestions and comments were provided by Dr. F. B. Smith, Head of the Department of Soils, Dr. George D. Thornton, As- sistant Dean, College of Agriculture, Dr, O. C. Ruelke, Assistant Professor of Agronomy, Soil Surveyor Ralph G. Leighty, and Professor John V. Watkins, who read and criticized various chap- ters in the book. Special recognition is given to Mr. Tom Lay for his excellent illustrations and to the author's wife, Margaret, who served as consultant, critic, and proofreader. Gainesville, Florida June 1, 1963 SETON N. EDSON Gainesville, Florida June 1, 1963 SETON N. EDSON Gainesville, Florida June 1, 1963 SETON N. EDSON  ONE X X ONE X X ONE X Florida's Soils Q.-Is it true that brown subsoils are always acid? The color of soil is not a good indicator of soil acidity. Black, gray, yellow, red, or brown soils may be either acid or alkaline, depending on the material from which they are weathered and their content of organic matter. Other environmental effects may also influence the degree of acidity of soils. Q.-Should I cultivate or spade a wet clay soil? Never cultivate or spade a wet clay soil. Clay soils that are worked while they are wet become puddled, the fine particles running together, causing destruction of the soil structure. A good time to spade or cultivate a clay soil is when it feels moist and crumbles easily when pressed in the hand. Q.-What can be done to clay soils to improve root development? Root development can be improved in clay soils by planting and turning under green manure crops, preferably legumes or any organic material, and by deep plowing or tillage after the soil has drained thoroughly following a rain. 1 Florida's Soils Q.-Is it true that brown subsoils are always acid? The color of soil is not a good indicator of soil acidity. Black, gray, yellow, red, or brown soils may be either acid or alkaline, depending on the material from which they are weathered and their content of organic matter. Other environmental effects may also influence the degree of acidity of soils. Q.-Should I cultivate or spade a wet clay soil? Never cultivate or spade a wet clay soil. Clay soils that are worked while they are wet become puddled, the fine particles running together, causing destruction of the soil structure. A good time to spade or cultivate a clay soil is when it feels moist and crumbles easily when pressed in the hand. Q.-What can be done to clay soils to improve root development? Root development can be improved in clay soils by planting and turning under green manure crops, preferably legumes or any organic material, and by deep plowing or tillage after the soil has drained thoroughly following a rain. 1 Florida's Soils Q.-Is it true that brown subsoils are always acid? The color of soil is not a good indicator of soil acidity. Black, gray, yellow, red, or brown soils may be either acid or alkaline, depending on the material from which they are weathered and their content of organic matter. Other environmental effects may also influence the degree of acidity of soils. Q.--Should I cultivate or spade a wet clay soil? Never cultivate or spade a wet clay soil. Clay soils that are worked while they are wet become puddled, the fine particles running together, causing destruction of the soil structure. A good time to spade or cultivate a clay soil is when it feels moist and crumbles easily when pressed in the hand. Q.-What can be done to clay soils to improve root development? Root development can be improved in clay soils by planting and turning under green manure crops, preferably legumes or any organic material, and by deep plowing or tillage after the soil has drained thoroughly following a rain. 1  "? " ' ' ITT R LITER- LTTER DECOPOSIIONDECOPOSIIONDECOMPOSITION BACCUMULATION - ACCUMULATION BACCUMULATION CPARENT PARENT_ MARETERA ________________ MATERIAL ______________ MATERIAL______MATERI__ SOI 1L P ROF IL E SOI 1L P ROF I LE SOI 1L P ROF IL E  FLORIDA S SOILS 3 Q.-What is a soil profile? When a vertical cut is made into the soil so that distinct layers, parallel to the surface, are observed, the combination of these layers (horizons) constitutes the soil profile. Generally, soil pro- files extend downward to depths of 20 to 60 in. Q.-Since the addition of organic matter improves a sandy soil, will the addition of organic matter also improve a clay soil? A clay soil that is low in organic matter will be improved by its addition. The main improvement will be the superior tilth of the soil and the addition of some organic nitrogen. Q.-What is a marl soil? Marl is a crumbly deposit consisting mainly of clay mixed with calcium carbonate. In Florida, shelly marl is derived from marine shell deposits. Sometimes Florida marls are covered with a thin or thick layer of acid sands. Q.-Are all black soils the most fertile soils? Not necessarily. For most of Florida's black sandy soils, it is often necessary to add most of the minor elements as well as a high amount of phosphorus and potassium as fertilizers. The reason black soils are often termed fertile, or rich, is that there is a rather high content of organic nitrogen present in these soils. The tilth or structure of these soils is also improved by the high content of organic matter. Q.-I have heard our County Agricultural Agent speak of a Leon fine sand. What kind of soil is this? Leon fine sand is the official name of one of several soils occur- ring in flatwoods areas. These soils are acid, somewhat poorly drained, have a black or dark brown organic pan relatively near the surface, and support a native growth of pine trees and pal- mettos. Q.-I have a heavy clay soil. Will the mixing of sand with this soil improve its tilth? FLORIDA'S SOILS 3 Q.-What is a soil profile? When a vertical cut is made into the soil so that distinct layers, parallel to the surface, are observed, the combination of these layers (horizons) constitutes the soil profile. Generally, soil pro- files extend downward to depths of 20 to 60 in. Q.-Since the addition of organic matter improves a sandy soil, will the addition of organic matter also improve a clay soil? A clay soil that is low in organic matter will be improved by its addition. The main improvement will be the superior tilth of the soil and the addition of some organic nitrogen. Q.-What is a marl soil? Marl is a crumbly deposit consisting mainly of clay mixed with calcium carbonate. In Florida, shelly marl is derived from marine shell deposits. Sometimes Florida marls are covered with a thin or thick layer of acid sands. Q.-Are all black soils the most fertile soils? Not necessarily. For most of Florida's black sandy soils, it is often necessary to add most of the minor elements as well as a high amount of phosphorus and potassium as fertilizers. The reason black soils are often termed fertile, or rich, is that there is a rather high content of organic nitrogen present in these soils. The tilth or structure of these soils is also improved by the high content of organic matter. Q.-l have heard our County Agricultural Agent speak of a Leon fine sand. What kind of soil is this? Leon fine sand is the official name of one of several soils occur- ring in flatwoods areas. These soils are acid, somewhat poorly drained, have a black or dark brown organic pan relatively near the surface, and support a native growth of pine trees and pal- mettos. Q.-I have a heavy clay soil. Will the mixing of sand with this soil improve its tilth? FLORIDA'S SOILS 3 Q.-What is a soil profile? When a vertical cut is made into the soil so that distinct layers, parallel to the surface, are observed, the combination of these layers (horizons) constitutes the soil profile. Generally, soil pro- files extend downward to depths of 20 to 60 in. Q.-Since the addition of organic matter improves a sandy soil, will the addition of organic matter also improve a clay soil? A clay soil that is low in organic matter will be improved by its addition. The main improvement will be the superior tilth of the soil and the addition of some organic nitrogen. Q.-What is a marl soil? Marl is a crumbly deposit consisting mainly of clay mixed with calcium carbonate. In Florida, shelly marl is derived from marine shell deposits. Sometimes Florida marls are covered with a thin or thick layer of acid sands. Q.-Are all black soils the most fertile soils? Not necessarily. For most of Florida's black sandy soils, it is often necessary to add most of the minor elements as well as a high amount of phosphorus and potassium as fertilizers. The reason black soils are often termed fertile, or rich, is that there is a rather high content of organic nitrogen present in these soils. The tilth or structure of these soils is also improved by the high content of organic matter. Q.-l have heard our County Agricultural Agent speak of a Leon fine sand. What kind of soil is this? Leon fine sand is the official name of one of several soils occur- ring in flatwoods areas. These soils are acid, somewhat poorly drained, have a black or dark brown organic pan relatively near the surface, and support a native growth of pine trees and pal- mettos. Q.-I have a heavy clay soil. Will the mixing of sand with this soil improve its tilth?  4 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Yes, for small areas, where cost and time are not important fac- tors. However, the turning under or mixing of organic material may be more beneficial. Q.-The surface soil has been removed from the area where I wish to locate my garden. Can I improve the present sur- face layer? Probably the most important material lost in the removal of the surface soils is the organic matter. By planting and turning under suitable green manure crops, as well as any other plant residues, the organic matter can be replenished or increased. Q.-Should I use a special fertilizer for marl soil? Certain minor or trace elements often become deficient in marl soils which have a pH above 7. The general practice is to use a mixed fertilizer with the addition of a minor element spray. The spray is applied over the leaves of the plant when a deficiency is suspected. Q.-Is the subsoil a useless part of my garden soil? The subsoil is a necessary part of garden soil. Among other things, the subsoil is a storehouse for soil moisture, helping to retard the loss by leaching of valuable plant food elements. Q.-What is a virgin soil? This generally refers to a soil that has its native growth of vegeta- tion undisturbed by cultivation. Q.-What is the difference between a sandy loam and a loamy sand? Sandy loam and loamy sand are textural class names. A sandy loam is a soil consisting largely of sand but having enough silt and clay present to give a small amount of stability. If squeezed when moist, it will form a cast that will withstand careful han- dling without breaking. A loamy sand contains less amounts of silt and clay and has less stability when squeezed than a sandy loam. 4 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Yes, for small areas, where cost and time are not important fac- tors. However, the turning under or mixing of organic material may be more beneficial. Q.-The surface soil has been removed from the area where I wish to locate my garden. Can I improve the present sur- face layer? Probably the most important material lost in the removal of the surface soils is the organic matter. By planting and turning under suitable green manure crops, as well as any other plant residues, the organic matter can be replenished or increased. Q.-Should I use a special fertilizer for marl soil? Certain minor or trace elements often become deficient in marl soils which have a pH above 7. The general practice is to use a mixed fertilizer with the addition of a minor element spray. The spray is applied over the leaves of the plant when a deficiency is suspected. Q.-Is the subsoil a useless part of my garden soil? The subsoil is a necessary part of garden soil. Among other things, the subsoil is a storehouse for soil moisture, helping to retard the loss by leaching of valuable plant food elements. Q.-What is a virgin soil? This generally refers to a soil that has its native growth of vegeta- tion undisturbed by cultivation. Q.-What is the difference between a sandy loam and a loamy sand? Sandy loam and loamy sand are textural class names. A sandy loam is a soil consisting largely of sand but having enough silt and clay present to give a small amount of stability. If squeezed when moist, it will form a cast that will withstand careful han- dling without breaking. A loamy sand contains less amounts of silt and clay and has less stability when squeezed than a sandy loam. 4 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Yes, for small areas, where cost and time are not important fac- tors. However, the turning under or mixing of organic material may be more beneficial. Q.-The surface soil has been removed from the area where I wish to locate my garden. Can I improve the present sur- face layer? Probably the most important material lost in the removal of the surface soils is the organic matter. By planting and turning under suitable green manure crops, as well as any other plant residues, the organic matter can be replenished or increased. Q.-Should I use a special fertilizer for marl soil? Certain minor or trace elements often become deficient in marl soils which have a pH above 7. The general practice is to use a mixed fertilizer with the addition of a minor element spray. The spray is applied over the leaves of the plant when a deficiency is suspected. Q.-Is the subsoil a useless part of my garden soil? The subsoil is a necessary part of garden soil. Among other things, the subsoil is a storehouse for soil moisture, helping to retard the loss by leaching of valuable plant food elements. Q.-What is a virgin soil? This generally refers to a soil that has its native growth of vegeta- tion undisturbed by cultivation. Q.-What is the difference between a sandy loam and a loamy sand? Sandy loam and loamy sand are textural class names. A sandy loam is a soil consisting largely of sand but having enough silt and clay present to give a small amount of stability. If squeezed when moist, it will form a cast that will withstand careful han- dling without breaking. A loamy sand contains less amounts of silt and clay and has less stability when squeezed than a sandy loam.  FLORIDA'S SOILS 5 Q.-Would it help if I had a layer of topsoil hauled in and spread over my sandy lot? Spreading a layer of topsoil over sandy soil on a small lot should be helpful, especially as an aid in the retention of soil moisture. On large sandy lots, however, the cost may be prohibitive. One should also consider the losses of organic material in the topsoil by microbial oxidation. In Florida the rate of oxidation is very high. Q.-What are some characteristics of a good garden soil? A good garden soil should have the following characteristics: 1. Soil type: A medium-textured soil. The clay content should be high enough so that moisture and plant nutrients are re- tained, and not too high in moisture so that the soil is easily cultivated. 2. Soil reaction: The lime content of the soil should maintain a pH of about 6 to 7. 3. Moisture: Irrigation, drainage, and soil texture should all be considered in the moisture control of the garden soil. 4. Organic matter: To support good biological activity, the or- ganic matter content should be between 3 and 4 per cent by weight. Q.-Should I be careful in selecting the correct type of soil for planting my pecan trees? This is one instance where the type of soil has a profound effect on plant growth. Pecans grown on soils with a pan, such as Leon fine sand, will become stunted and finally die, probably due to a shallow water table level. Pecan trees have a deep root system and demand a fertile, deep, medium-textured, well-drained soil. Q.-Does the type of soil make any difference as to how deep or how widely spaced seeds should be planted? The depth and spacing of seed will depend on both the soil type and the kind of plant the seed represents. For example, corn seed would be spaced farther apart on sandy soils to prevent too much FLORIDA'S SOILS 5 Q.-Would it help if I had a layer of topsoil hauled in and spread over my sandy lot? Spreading a layer of topsoil over sandy soil on a small lot should be helpful, especially as an aid in the retention of soil moisture. On large sandy lots, however, the cost may be prohibitive. One should also consider the losses of organic material in the topsoil by microbial oxidation. In Florida the rate of oxidation is very high. Q.-What are some characteristics of a good garden soil? A good garden soil should have the following characteristics: 1. Soil type: A medium-textured soil. The clay content should be high enough so that moisture and plant nutrients are re- tained, and not too high in moisture so that the soil is easily cultivated. 2. Soil reaction: The lime content of the soil should maintain a pH of about 6 to 7. 3. Moisture: Irrigation, drainage, and soil texture should all be considered in the moisture control of the garden soil. 4. Organic matter: To support good biological activity, the or- ganic matter content should be between 3 and 4 per cent by weight. Q.-Should I be careful in selecting the correct type of soil for planting my pecan trees? This is one instance where the type of soil has a profound effect on plant growth. Pecans grown on soils with a pan, such as Leon fine sand, will become stunted and finally die, probably due to a shallow water table level. Pecan trees have a deep root system and demand a fertile, deep, medium-textured, well-drained soil. Q.-Does the type of soil make any difference as to how deep or how widely spaced seeds should be planted? The depth and spacing of seed will depend on both the soil type and the kind of plant the seed represents. For example, corn seed would be spaced farther apart on sandy soils to prevent too much FLORIDA'S SOILS 5 Q.-Would it help if I had a layer of topsoil hauled in and spread over my sandy lot? Spreading a layer of topsoil over sandy soil on a small lot should be helpful, especially as an aid in the retention of soil moisture. On large sandy lots, however, the cost may be prohibitive. One should also consider the losses of organic material in the topsoil by microbial oxidation. In Florida the rate of oxidation is very high. Q.-What are some characteristics of a good garden soil? A good garden soil should have the following characteristics: 1. Soil type: A medium-textured soil. The clay content should be high enough so that moisture and plant nutrients are re- tained, and not too high in moisture so that the soil is easily cultivated. 2. Soil reaction: The lime content of the soil should maintain a pH of about 6 to 7. 3. Moisture: Irrigation, drainage, and soil texture should all be considered in the moisture control of the garden soil. 4. Organic matter: To support good biological activity, the or- ganic matter content should be between 3 and 4 per cent by weight. Q.-Should I be careful in selecting the correct type of soil for planting my pecan trees? This is one instance where the type of soil has a profound effect on plant growth. Pecans grown on soils with a pan, such as Leon fine sand, will become stunted and finally die, probably due to a shallow water table level. Pecan trees have a deep root system and demand a fertile, deep, medium-textured, well-drained soil. Q.-Does the type of soil make any difference as to how deep or how widely spaced seeds should be planted? The depth and spacing of seed will depend on both the soil type and the kind of plant the seed represents. For example, corn seed would be spaced farther apart on sandy soils to prevent too much  6 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS competition for fertilizer and moisture. Perhaps corn would also be planted a little deeper in the sandy soils to secure a better moisture condition. Q.-Why does my soil dry out so quickly after a shower of rain? The coarser the soil, the quicker it will dry out after a rain. Fine- textured soils having a high content of clay and humus hold more of the rain water that falls on them, and thus dry out slowly. Q.-What are some ways of improving a poor soil? The best way to answer this question is in steps, as follows: 1. Check the drainage or irrigation problem and make any im- provements necessary. 2. Apply dolomitic limestone if needed. 3. Maintain the existing organic matter content of the soil with a selected cover crop. 4. Apply the recommended kind and amount of a complete mixed fertilizer. 5. Have a good program of weed and pest control. Q.-I have a spot in my garden that is said to be "sand-soaked." What does this mean? When the geological formation below a sandy soil profile sud- denly dips downward, it allows the weathered claylike materials to go much deeper in the sandy soil than would otherwise take place. This leaves a very deep sandy layer that is highly leached by rains. These areas are known as sand-soaked spots and gen- erally support very little plant growth. Q.-Why do plants grow better in certain spots in my garden? One or a combination of the following factors may cause superior growth of plants in certain spots: 1. Better light conditions. 2. Better moisture conditions. 3. Better soil fertility conditions. 4. Better biological and organic conditions. 5. Freedom from disease and pests. 6 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS competition for fertilizer and moisture. Perhaps corn would also be planted a little deeper in the sandy soils to secure a better moisture condition. Q.-Why does my soil dry out so quickly after a shower of rain? The coarser the soil, the quicker it will dry out after a rain. Fine- textured soils having a high content of clay and humus hold more of the rain water that falls on them, and thus dry out slowly. Q.-What are some ways of improving a poor soil? The best way to answer this question is in steps, as follows: 1. Check the drainage or irrigation problem and make any im- provements necessary. 2. Apply dolomitic limestone if needed. 3. Maintain the existing organic matter content of the soil with a selected cover crop. 4. Apply the recommended kind and amount of a complete mixed fertilizer. 5. Have a good program of weed and pest control. Q.-I have a spot in my garden that is said to be "sand-soaked." What does this mean? When the geological formation below a sandy soil profile sud- denly dips downward, it allows the weathered claylike materials to go much deeper in the sandy soil than would otherwise take place. This leaves a very deep sandy layer that is highly leached by rains. These areas are known as sand-soaked spots and gen- erally support very little plant growth. Q.-Why do plants grow better in certain spots in my garden? One or a combination of the following factors may cause superior growth of plants in certain spots: 1. Better light conditions. 2. Better moisture conditions. 3. Better soil fertility conditions. 4. Better biological and organic conditions. 5. Freedom from disease and pests. 6 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS competition for fertilizer and moisture. Perhaps corn would also be planted a little deeper in the sandy soils to secure a better moisture condition. Q.-Why does my soil dry out so quickly after a shower of rain? The coarser the soil, the quicker it will dry out after a rain. Fine- textured soils having a high content of clay and humus hold more of the rain water that falls on them, and thus dry out slowly. Q.-What are some ways of improving a poor soil? The best way to answer this question is in steps, as follows: 1. Check the drainage or irrigation problem and make any im- provements necessary. 2. Apply dolomitic limestone if needed. 3. Maintain the existing organic matter content of the soil with a selected cover crop. 4. Apply the recommended kind and amount of a complete mixed fertilizer. 5. Have a good program of weed and pest control. Q.-I have a spot in my garden that is said to be "sand-soaked." What does this mean? When the geological formation below a sandy soil profile sud- denly dips downward, it allows the weathered claylike materials to go much deeper in the sandy soil than would otherwise take place. This leaves a very deep sandy layer that is highly leached by rains. These areas are known as sand-soaked spots and gen- erally support very little plant growth. Q.-Why do plants grow better in certain spots in my garden? One or a combination of the following factors may cause superior growth of plants in certain spots: 1. Better light conditions. 2. Better moisture conditions. 3. Better soil fertility conditions. 4. Better biological and organic conditions. 5. Freedom from disease and pests.  FLORIDA'S SOILS 7 Q.-Are all peat soils the same? No. The nature and kind of peat soil are determined by the plant material from which it is derived. Q.-Are all peat soils acid? No. If they have developed over limestone, many peat soils are only weakly acid or neutral in reaction. On the other hand, peat soils that do not develop over limestone are very acid. Q.-I am a successful grower of weeds only. What does my soil need? If you can successfully grow good, healthy weeds, then the only problem you have is to remove the weeds to prevent competition for fertilizer and moisture by your garden plants. This requires hand labor, which is still the best way to keep a garden free of weeds. Q.-Why are peats and mucks so much valued for growing plants? Among the good and bad points in peat soils there are several outstanding good points. 1. A very high content of organic nitrogen which is oxidized into a steady amount of available nitrogen for rapid plant growth. 2. A very high capacity to hold water and fertilizer. 3. A soil that is easily worked and well aerated. 4. Peat and mucks tend to make other plant nutrients more available. Q.-My lawn receives a uniform application of fertilizer and water, yet some spots are not as thrifty as others. Why is this? If it is not a turf disease, it could be caused by a change in the soil. It is not uncommon for the clay accumulation in a soil to dip suddenly, leaving a deep layer of sand in its place. Constant leaching leaves this area much less fertile than the surrounding soil. FLORIDA'S SOILS 7 Q.-Are all peat soils the same? No. The nature and kind of peat soil are determined by the plant material from which it is derived. Q.-Are all peat soils acid? No. If they have developed over limestone, many peat soils are only weakly acid or neutral in reaction. On the other hand, peat soils that do not develop over limestone are very acid. Q.-I am a successful grower of weeds only. What does my soil need? If you can successfully grow good, healthy weeds, then the only problem you have is to remove the weeds to prevent competition for fertilizer and moisture by your garden plants. This requires hand labor, which is still the best way to keep a garden free of weeds. Q.-Why are peals and mucks so much valued for growing plants? Among the good and bad points in peat soils there are several outstanding good points. 1. A very high content of organic nitrogen which is oxidized into a steady amount of available nitrogen for rapid plant growth. 2. A very high capacity to hold water and fertilizer. 3. A soil that is easily worked and well aerated. 4. Peat and mucks tend to make other plant nutrients more available. Q.-My lawn receives a uniform application of fertilizer and water, yet some spots are not as thrifty as others. Why is this? If it is not a turf disease, it could be caused by a change in the soil. It is not uncommon for the clay accumulation in a soil to dip suddenly, leaving a deep layer of sand in its place. Constant leaching leaves this area much less fertile than the surrounding soil. FLORIDA'S SOILS 7 Q.-Are all peat soils the same? No. The nature and kind of peat soil are determined by the plant material from which it is derived. Q.-Are all peat soils acid? No. If they have developed over limestone, many peat soils are only weakly acid or neutral in reaction. On the other hand, peat soils that do not develop over limestone are very acid. Q.-I am a successful grower of weeds only. What does my soil need? If you can successfully grow good, healthy weeds, then the only problem you have is to remove the weeds to prevent competition for fertilizer and moisture by your garden plants. This requires hand labor, which is still the best way to keep a garden free of weeds. Q.-Why are peats and mucks so much valued for growing plants? Among the good and bad points in peat soils there are several outstanding good points. 1. A very high content of organic nitrogen which is oxidized into a steady amount of available nitrogen for rapid plant growth. 2. A very high capacity to hold water and fertilizer. 3. A soil that is easily worked and well aerated. 4. Peat and mucks tend to make other plant nutrients more available. Q.-My lawn receives a uniform application of fertilizer and water, yet some spots are not as thrifty as others. Why is this? If it is not a turf disease, it could be caused by a change in the soil. It is not uncommon for the clay accumulation in a soil to dip suddenly, leaving a deep layer of sand in its place. Constant leaching leaves this area much less fertile than the surrounding soil.  SOME FAMILIAR NAM Of OUR FLORIDA S01ES I = GRAY AND BLACK FLAY WOODS BOIL. S 0008.5. E NESTIXO OVEP L YE MpTfPIAL 7aMUCN AND PEAT SOILS A®0F°NOR°THWEST FLORIDA801L8 S= RED AN YEOMEN' SANDS OF THE S- CEXTP.EL YE w SAMOS OF THE NA4M.GXS i® SWARP8, SCRUB OR DRY BANDS L I SOME FAMILIAR NA E OF OUR FLORIDA S I I p DRAY AND SLACK FLATWOODS SOILS E=RESTIAU WER LINE MATEFIA13, SOILS SMMUCK AND PEAT SOILS AND NWLLO CLAY SOILS W® OFS NO EST FLORIDA S=REE AME HEDE W SANDS OF THE gRED CENTNAL YMEMMOCIStANDI OF THE T®.-.P.. SCRUB OR DRY SANDS SOME FAMILIAR NAMES Of OUR FLORIDA SOILS I DRAY AND BLACK FLAT W DDDa SOIL. x0 BLACK FLATWOOC3 BOILS B' NESTIx0 OVER LIME MATEPIALe. S MUCK AND PEAT 30.18 H P ON MD. YELLOYI CLAY BOILS ® OF EST FLORIDA S®REE AND YELLOW BRINGS OF THE G_ CNTRAL YHAMMOCKSN08 OF THE a T® SWAMP3, SCRUB OR DRY BANDS I 7:. j I L  FLORIDA'S SOILS 9 Q.-Is it worth the price to remove all sand, broken block, and debris around my new home, or is it more practical to im- prove the soil where these are found? Both are necessary. Remove as much of the broken blocks, lime, and debris as possible, and then haul in a fertile mixture of peat and topsoil and put it in their place. Acid-demanding plants need constant attention when planted in soils with large amounts of lime residue, such as new soil around a masonry home. Further improvement of the soil is made by keeping a thick mulch of leaves or pine straw around the growing shrubs. Q.-Where did so much sand in our Florida soils come from? Several times during the past million or so years, Florida has been under the sea. Each time this has taken place, layers of sandy sediments have been deposited over the marine limestone shelf. The deposits form the familiar marine terraces or ancient beaches which one sees when driving in an east-west'direction in Florida. Q.-I have heard that soils are classified by names. Will you enlighten me on some of the more familiar Florida soils? You need to know the names of the soil series and their textures. Combined, these two aspects of soil classification constitute the soil type. Here are the names and locations of some common Florida soil types. 1. Lakeland fine sand: Well-drained yellow sandy soils of the central ridge. 2. Leon fine sand: A somewhat poorly-drained soil of the fiat- woods, supporting saw palmettos and pine trees. 3. Red Bay loamy fine sand: A red clayey soil of northwest Flor- ida. 4. Fellowship loamy fine sand: A phosphatic soil of the central hammocks. Q.-I have a low and wet type of soil. How can I manage such a soil to grow fruit trees? Your principal problem is adequate soil drainage. After a good FLORIDA'S SOILS 9 Q.-Is it worth the price to remove all sand, broken block, and debris around my new home, or is it more practical to im- prove the soil where these are found? Both are necessary. Remove as much of the broken blocks, lime, and debris as possible, and then haul in a fertile mixture of peat and topsoil and put it in their place. Acid-demanding plants need constant attention when planted in soils with large amounts of lime residue, such as new soil around a masonry home. Further improvement of the soil is made by keeping a thick mulch of leaves or pine straw around the growing shrubs. Q.-Where did so much sand in our Florida soils come from? Several times during the past million or so years, Florida has been under the sea. Each time this has taken place, layers of sandy sediments have been deposited over the marine limestone shelf. The deposits form the familiar marine terraces or ancient beaches which one sees when driving in an east-west direction in Florida. Q.-I have heard that soils are classified by names. Will you enlighten me an some of the more familiar Florida soils? You need to know the names of the soil series and their textures. Combined, these two aspects of soil classification constitute the soil type. Here are the names and locations of some common Florida soil types. 1. Lakeland fine sand: Well-drained yellow sandy soils of the central ridge. 2. Leon fine sand: A somewhat poorly-drained soil of the fliat- woods, supporting saw palmettos and pine trees. 3. Red Bay loamy fine sand: A red clayey soil of northwest Flor- ida. 4. Fellowship loamy fine sand: A phosphatic soil of the central hammocks. Q.-I have a low and wet type of soil. How can I manage such a soil to grow fruit trees? Your principal problem is adequate soil drainage. After a good FLORIDA'S SOILS 9 Q.-Is it worth the price to remove all sand, broken block, and debris around my new home, or is it more practical to im- prove the soil where these are found? Both are necessary. Remove as much of the broken blocks, lime, and debris as possible, and then haul in a fertile mixture of peat and topsoil and put it in their place. Acid-demanding plants need constant attention when planted in soils with large amounts of lime residue, such as new soil around a masonry home. Further improvement of the soil is made by keeping a thick mulch of leaves or pine straw around the growing shrubs. Q.-Where did so much sand in our Florida soils come from? Several times during the past million or so years, Florida has been under the sea. Each time this has taken place, layers of sandy sediments have been deposited over the marine limestone shelf. The deposits form the familiar marine terraces or ancient beaches which one sees when driving in an east-west direction in Florida. Q.-I have heard that soils are classified by names. Will you enlighten me on some of the more familiar Florida soils? You need to know the names of the soil series and their textures. Combined, these two aspects of soil classification constitute the soil type. Here are the names and locations of some common Florida soil types. 1. Lakeland fine sand: Well-drained yellow sandy soils of the central ridge. 2. Leon fine sand: A somewhat poorly-drained soil of the flat- woods, supporting saw palmettos and pine trees. 3. Red Bay loamy fine sand: A red clayey soil of northwest Flor- ida. 4. Fellowship loamy fine sand: A phosphatic soil of the central hammocks. Q.-I have a low and wet type of soil. How can I manage such a soil to grow fruit trees? Your principal problem is adequate soil drainage. After a good  CENTRAL FLORIDA DRAINAGE CATENA CENTRAL FLORIDA DRAINAGE CATENA CENTRAL FLORIDA DRAINAGE CATENA  FLORIDA'S SOILS 11 FLORIDA'S SOILS 11 FLORIDA'S SOILS 11 program of soil moisture management, you can further condition your soil with lime, if needed, and recommended fertilizers. It is desirable to have adequate drainage to a depth of 36 to 48 in. for citrus and other fruit trees. Q.-Should I set plants directly into newly-excavated or dredged soil without further attention? Most excavated soils are lacking in organic matter and, thus, lacking in enough nitrogen as well as other elements supplied in whole or part by the soil humus. A fertile mixture of peat and topsoil should be added to the hole prior to planting. Q.-Will pine trees grow on soils with a hard pan? Yes. Most of the soils of Florida's fiatwoods have an organic pan, and many of these soils do support a growth of pine trees. These soils also have a shallow water table which restricts the penetra- tion of roots. Q.-Should I make any attempt to fit certain plants to certain soil types? On large areas of specific soil types it is wise to consider the crop or plant that is best suited for the soil. For small areas, however, the soil is often man-made to fit the plant. For example, a Leon fine sand would not be recommended for growing fruit trees un- less adequate drainage is provided. Q.-What causes a hardpan and what is it composed of? The constant percolation of rain water through the surface soil carries with it very fine materials that may be deposited either shallow or deep within the soil, depending on local conditions. The most common soil materials that form hardpans are oxides of iron and aluminum, clays, organic matter, or mixtures of any of these. Q.-Should my garden be planted on high or on low ground? If you have a choice of either high or low ground for your garden, the primary consideration should be the soil moisture conditions. program of soil moisture management, you can further condition your soil with lime, if needed, and recommended fertilizers. It is desirable to have adequate drainage to a depth of 36 to 48 in. for citrus and other fruit trees. Q.-Should I set plants directly into newly-excavated or dredged soil without further attention? Most excavated soils are lacking in organic matter and, thus, lacking in enough nitrogen as well as other elements supplied in whole or part by the soil humus. A fertile mixture of peat and topsoil should be added to the hole prior to planting. Q.-Will pine trees grow on soils with a hard pan? Yes. Most of the soils of Florida's fiatwoods have an organic pan, and many of these soils do support a growth of pine trees. These soils also have a shallow water table which restricts the penetra- tion of roots. Q.-Should I make any attempt to fit certain plants to certain soil types? On large areas of specific soil types it is wise to consider the crop or plant that is best suited for the soil. For small areas, however, the soil is often man-made to fit the plant. For example, a Leon fine sand would not be recommended for growing fruit trees un- less adequate drainage is provided. Q.-What causes a hardpan and what is it composed of? The constant percolation of rain water through the surface soil carries with it very fine materials that may be deposited either shallow or deep within the soil, depending on local conditions. The most common soil materials that form hardpans are oxides of iron and aluminum, clays, organic matter, or mixtures of any of these. Q.-Should my garden be planted on high or on low ground? If you have a choice of either high or low ground for your garden, the primary consideration should be the soil moisture conditions. program of soil moisture management, you can further condition your soil with lime, if needed, and recommended fertilizers. It is desirable to have adequate drainage to a depth of 36 to 48 in. for citrus and other fruit trees. Q.-Should I set plants directly into newly-excavated or dredged soil without further attention? Most excavated soils are lacking in organic matter and, thus, lacking in enough nitrogen as well as other elements supplied in whole or part by the soil humus. A fertile mixture of peat and topsoil should be added to the hole prior to planting. Q.-Will pine trees grow on soils with a hard pan? Yes. Most of the soils of Florida's fiatwoods have an organic pan, and many of these soils do support a growth of pine trees. These soils also have a shallow water table which restricts the penetra- tion of roots. Q.-Should I make any attempt to fit certain plants to certain soil types? On large areas of specific soil types it is wise to consider the crop or plant that is best suited for the soil. For small areas, however, the soil is often man-made to fit the plant. For example, a Leon fine sand would not be recommended for growing fruit trees un- less adequate drainage is provided. Q.-What causes a hardpan and what is it composed of? The constant percolation of rain water through the surface soil carries with it very fine materials that may be deposited either shallow or deep within the soil, depending on local conditions. The most common soil materials that form hardpans are oxides of iron and aluminum, clays, organic matter, or mixtures of any of these. Q.-Should my garden be planted on high or on low ground? If you have a choice of either high or low ground for your garden, the primary consideration should be the soil moisture conditions.  12 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 12 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 12 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS If the garden site is too low, it may be too wet and therefore dif- ficult to drain properly. If the garden site is too high and the soil is sandy, it may be too droughty for a successful garden. A good garden site should have some of both-good soil aeration and good soil moisture conditions. Q.-Can I improve a highly-leached sandy soil? This would first depend on how the sandy soil became highly leached. If it were caused by the continual removal or burning of plant residues, then this soil could be improved by growing and turning under of plant residues. If this is a virgin soil, then the organic matter content will tend to remain fairly constant. In either case, the addition of a balanced mixed fertilizer in split applications during the growing season is a beneficial practice for highly-leached sandy soils. Q.-Does a hardpan affect the growth of citrus trees? As citrus trees have a deep taproot, they do not do well on soils with a hardpan for this reason: Soils with an organic pan usually have a fluctuating shallow to moderately deep water table which restricts the depth of rooting of the citrus trees. Q.-Can the native growth help indicate the kind of soil to be expected in that area? There is a distinct relation between native growth and a virgin soil type. A thorough study of this situation can be made by using a County Soil Survey report and map as a field guide. For example, in central Florida, soils under turkey oak are acid, excessively-drained yellow sands. The most common soil type is Lakeland fine sand. Q.-What kind of soil is best for roses? It has been found that acid soils, with a fair amount of clay close to the surface, favor the growth of roses. Since roses are grown in small beds or by themselves, it is economical to make a man- made soil with sand, organic matter, and clay. The kind of roses and the location of the site will determine the amounts to mix. If the garden site is too low, it may be too wet and therefore dif- ficult to drain properly. If the garden site is too high and the soil is sandy, it may be too droughty for a successful garden. A good garden site should have some of both-good soil aeration and good soil moisture conditions. Q.-Can I improve a highly-leached sandy soil? This would first depend on how the sandy soil became highly leached. If it were caused by the continual removal or burning of plant residues, then this soil could be improved by growing and turning under of plant residues. If this is a virgin soil, then the organic matter content will tend to remain fairly constant. In either case, the addition of a balanced mixed fertilizer in split applications during the growing season is a beneficial practice for highly-leached sandy soils. Q.-Does a hardpan affect the growth of citrus trees? As citrus trees have a deep taproot, they do not do well on soils with a hardpan for this reason: Soils with an organic pan usually have a fluctuating shallow to moderately deep water table which restricts the depth of rooting of the citrus trees. Q.-Can the native growth help indicate the kind of soil to be expected in that area? There is a distinct relation between native growth and a virgin soil type. A thorough study of this situation can be made by using a County Soil Survey report and map as a field guide. For example, in central Florida, soils under turkey oak are acid, excessively-drained yellow sands. The most common soil type is Lakeland fine sand. Q.-What kind of soil is best for roses? It has been found that acid soils, with a fair amount of clay close to the surface, favor the growth of roses. Since roses are grown in small beds or by themselves, it is economical to make a man- made soil with sand, organic matter, and clay. The kind of roses and the location of the site will determine the amounts to mix. If the garden site is too low, it may be too wet and therefore dif- ficult to drain properly. If the garden site is too high and the soil is sandy, it may be too droughty for a successful garden. A good garden site should have some of both-good soil aeration and good soil moisture conditions. Q.-Can I improve a highly-leached sandy soil? This would first depend on how the sandy soil became highly leached. If it were caused by the continual removal or burning of plant residues, then this soil could be improved by growing and turning under of plant residues. If this is a virgin soil, then the organic matter content will tend to remain fairly constant. In either case, the addition of a balanced mixed fertilizer in split applications during the growing season is a beneficial practice for highly-leached sandy soils. Q.-Does a hardpan affect the growth of citrus trees? As citrus trees have a deep taproot, they do not do well on soils with a hardpan for this reason: Soils with an organic pan usually have a fluctuating shallow to moderately deep water table which restricts the depth of rooting of the citrus trees. Q.-Can the native growth help indicate the kind of soil to be expected in that area? There is a distinct relation between native growth and a virgin soil type. A thorough study of this situation can be made by using a County Soil Survey report and map as a field guide. For example, in central Florida, soils under turkey oak are acid, excessively-drained yellow sands. The most common soil type is Lakeland fine sand. Q.-What kind of soil is best for roses? It has been found that acid soils, with a fair amount of clay close to the surface, favor the growth of roses. Since roses are grown in small beds or by themselves, it is economical to make a man- made soil with sand, organic matter, and clay. The kind of roses and the location of the site will determine the amounts to mix.  FLORIDA'S SOILS 13 FLORIDA'S SOILS 13 FLORIDA'S SOILS 13 Q.-I have a large garden area. Is there any advantage in using a County Soil Survey map to plan my garden? Besides locating the soil type for your garden, there are several advantages in using a County Soil Survey map. You will discover considerable information about your county that you may not have known. In addition to climatic and vegetative information that will broaden your knowledge of county soils, you will find a careful description of soil types or phases in your garden area. Q.-What is a loam soil and why is it valued so highly? A loam soil is generally considered to be a soil with an ideal texture. Loams have about equal amounts of fine and coarse soil particles. This, in turn, promotes better aeration, ease of culti- vation, and good moisture retention. Q.-I have a sandy soil, but it is very black. How did so much organic matter accumulate in this sand? In Florida the black sandy soils are caused by a combination of abundant vegetative growth and usually a high water table. Water that stands above the surface of the land for long periods of time causes anaerobic activity, or lack of sufficient air for rapid oxidation of the plant residues. Thus, over long periods of time, this partially-decayed plant material accumulates and causes the dark colors. Q.-My garden is located only a few miles from a large lime- stone mining operation, yet I am told that my soil needs lime. Why is this? The entire state of Florida is underlain with marine limestone. In some areas it dips deep below the surface; in other areas, it is exposed at the surface. This variation can be abrupt, leaving acid sands only a short distance from limestone outcropping. Leaching rains tend to make this situation more pronounced. Q.-Does Florida have any of the "red clay soils" so often seen in the Southeast? Soil types have no respect for county or state borders. Large Q.-I have a large garden area. Is there any advantage in using a County Soil Survey map to plan my garden? Besides locating the soil type for your garden, there are several advantages in using a County Soil Survey map. You will discover considerable information about your county that you may not have known. In addition to climatic and vegetative information that will broaden your knowledge of county soils, you will find a careful description of soil types or phases in your garden area. Q.-What is a loam soil and why is it valued so highly? A loam soil is generally considered to be a soil with an ideal texture. Loams have about equal amounts of fine and coarse soil particles. This, in turn, promotes better aeration, ease of culti- vation, and good moisture retention. Q.-I have a sandy soil, but it is very black. How did so much organic matter accumulate in this sand? In Florida the black sandy soils are caused by a combination of abundant vegetative growth and usually a high water table. Water that stands above the surface of the land for long periods of time causes anaerobic activity, or lack of sufficient air for rapid oxidation of the plant residues. Thus, over long periods of time, this partially-decayed plant material accumulates and causes the dark colors. Q.-My garden is located only a few miles from a large lime- stone mining operation, yet I am told that my soil needs lime. Why is this? The entire state of Florida is underlain with marine limestone. In some areas it dips deep below the surface; in other areas, it is exposed at the surface. This variation can be abrupt, leaving acid sands only a short distance from limestone outcropping. Leaching rains tend to make this situation more pronounced. Q.-Does Florida have any of the "red clay soils" so often seen in the Southeast? Soil types have no respect for county or state borders. Large Q.-I have a large garden area. Is there any advantage in using a County Soil Survey map to plan my garden? Besides locating the soil type for your garden, there are several advantages in using a County Soil Survey map. You will discover considerable information about your county that you may not have known. In addition to climatic and vegetative information that will broaden your knowledge of county soils, you will find a careful description of soil types or phases in your garden area. Q.-What is a loam soil and why is it valued so highly? A loam soil is generally considered to be a soil with an ideal texture. Loams have about equal amounts of fine and coarse soil particles. This, in turn, promotes better aeration, ease of culti- vation, and good moisture retention. Q.-I have a sandy soil, but it is very black. How did so much organic matter accumulate in this sand? In Florida the black sandy soils are caused by a combination of abundant vegetative growth and usually a high water table. Water that stands above the surface of the land for long periods of time causes anaerobic activity, or lack of sufficient air for rapid oxidation of the plant residues. Thus, over long periods of time, this partially-decayed plant material accumulates and causes the dark colors. Q.-My garden is located only a few miles from a large lime- stone mining operation, yet I am told that my soil needs lime. Why is this? The entire state of Florida is underlain with marine limestone. In some areas it dips deep below the surface; in other areas, it is exposed at the surface. This variation can be abrupt, leaving acid sands only a short distance from limestone outcropping. Leaching rains tend to make this situation more pronounced. Q.-Does Florida have any of the "red clay soils" so often seen in the Southeast? Soil types have no respect for county or state borders. Large  14 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 14 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 14 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS areas of typical red clay soils extend across the Georgia and Ala- bama borders into the northern counties of Florida. Q.-What are Florida hammock soils and why are they different from other soils? Hammock soils commonly refer to soils supporting a natural growth of live, laurel, and other oaks, magnolia, hickory, gum, and other hardwood trees. In southern Florida, cabbage pal- mettos are included in the hammocks. These soils, unique in Florida, are infuenced by outcroppings of phosphatic limestone. Most hammock soils are considered medium fertile. They are found in large areas of Alachua and Marion counties. Q.-What is the difference between peat soil and muck soil? The difference between peat soil and muck soil is dependent on the degree of decomposition of the plant material from which they are derived. The fibers of plant material can still be recog- nized in peats but cannot be identified in mucks. Muck is gen- erally decomposed to a distinct black color, whereas peat may still be quite brown in color. Q.-What are the scrub and turkey oak soils of Florida used for? Where they are sufficiently frost-free, they are highly prized for citrus culture. When these sands cannot be used for citrus, they are generally left in their native growth of scrub and turkey oak. Q.-What material in the soil helps prevent leaching of ferti- lizers? The principal materials in soil that help prevent leaching of fertilizers are the fine colloidal particles. These may be clays, organic matter, or both. Q.-Can I use a very sandy soil for gardening? If very sandy soil is your only choice for a garden spot, then sandy soil it must be. By giving careful consideration to moisture and fertilizer problems, you can use this type of soil for garden- ing. Contact your local County Agricultural Agent for specific management and fertilizer practices. areas of typical red clay soils extend across the Georgia and Ala- bama borders into the northern counties of Florida. Q.-What are Florida hammock soils and why are they different from other soils? Hammock soils commonly refer to soils supporting a natural growth of live, laurel, and other oaks, magnolia, hickory, gum, and other hardwood trees. In southern Florida, cabbage pal- mettos are included in the hammocks. These soils, unique in Florida, are influenced by outcroppings of phosphatic limestone. Most hammock soils are considered medium fertile. They are found in large areas of Alachua and Marion counties. Q.-What is the difference between peat soil and muck soil? The difference between peat soil and muck soil is dependent on the degree of decomposition of the plant material from which they are derived. The fibers of plant material can still be recog- nized in peats but cannot be identified in mucks. Muck is gen- erally decomposed to a distinct black color, whereas peat may still be quite brown in color. Q.-What are the scrub and turkey oak soils of Florida used for? Where they are sufficiently frost-free, they are highly prized for citrus culture. When these sands cannot be used for citrus, they are generally left in their native growth of scrub and turkey oak. Q.-What material in the soil helps prevent leaching of ferti- lizers? The principal materials in soil that help prevent leaching of fertilizers are the fine colloidal particles. These may be clays, organic matter, or both. Q.-Can I use a very sandy soil for gardening? If very sandy soil is your only choice for a garden spot, then sandy soil it must be. By giving careful consideration to moisture and fertilizer problems, you can use this type of soil for garden- ing. Contact your local County Agricultural Agent for specific management and fertilizer practices. areas of typical red clay soils extend across the Georgia and Ala- bama borders into the northern counties of Florida. Q.-What are Florida hammock soils and why are they different from other soils? Hammock soils commonly refer to soils supporting a natural growth of live, laurel, and other oaks, magnolia, hickory, gum, and other hardwood trees. In southern Florida, cabbage pal- mettos are included in the hammocks. These soils, unique in Florida, are influenced by outcroppings of phosphatic limestone. Most hammock soils are considered medium fertile. They are found in large areas of Alachua and Marion counties. Q.-What is the difference between peat soil and muck soil? The difference between peat soil and muck soil is dependent on the degree of decomposition of the plant material from which they are derived. The fibers of plant material can still be recog- nized in peats but cannot be identified in mucks. Muck is gen- erally decomposed to a distinct black color, whereas peat may still be quite brown in color. Q.-What are the scrub and turkey oak soils of Florida used for? Where they are sufficiently frost-free, they are highly prized for citrus culture. When these sands cannot be used for citrus, they are generally left in their native growth of scrub and turkey oak. Q.-What material in the soil helps prevent leaching of ferti- lizers? The principal materials in soil that help prevent leaching of fertilizers are the fine colloidal particles. These may be clays, organic matter, or both. Q.-Can I use a very sandy soil for gardening? If very sandy soil is your only choice for a garden spot, then sandy soil it must be. By giving careful consideration to moisture and fertilizer problems, you can use this type of soil for garden- ing. Contact your local County Agricultural Agent for specific management and fertilizer practices.  FLORIDA'S SOILS 15 Q.-What are the "scrub oak soils" of Florida? Scrub oak soils generally refer to soils supporting a natural growth of scrub live oaks, turkey oaks, and usually some sand pine, rose- mary, runner oak, prickly pear cactus, saw palmetto, and wire- grass. The soils are usually excessively drained, highly leached, and low in natural fertility. The surface soil consists of thin, light gray, or gray sandy materials. It is underlain by white sandy horizons to a depth of 60 in. or more, or the white sands may be underlain by yellow sands at depths of 10 to 30 in. Q.-Does the type of soil have any effect on the amount of water used for irrigation? Very much so. The finer the texture of the soil, the more water it takes to bring it to field capacity. For example, clay soils that are dry need much more moisture from irrigation before water becomes available to plants. By the same token, these clay soils take much longer to dry out, with the result that plants remain turgid over a longer period of time. Q.-What are the flatwoods soils of Florida? These are the most abundant and familiar soils of Florida. They occur on large flat areas in the state, supporting a native growth of shrubs, palmettos, and pine trees. Flatwoods soils are very acid, gray to black sands, and they have a low native fertility. Forming the familiar ponds and swamps, the water table may be just below the surface, at the surface, or above the surface of the soil. With adequate drainage and other proper management, many of these soils produce excellent crops and pastures. Q.-Why does the black color of my garden soil disappear when I dig down into it? In many of Florida's sandy soils, a distinct leached zone appears just below the surface. This is a natural condition which is common to many soil types found in regions of high rainfall. For similar soils that have not been plowed or cultivated, this condition is even more pronounced. FLORIIA'S SOILS 15 Q.-What are the "scrub oak soils" of Florida? Scrub oak soils generally refer to soils supporting a natural growth of scrub live oaks, turkey oaks, and usually some sand pine, rose- mary, runner oak, prickly pear cactus, saw palmetto, and wire- grass. The soils are usually excessively drained, highly leached, and low in natural fertility. The surface soil consists of thin, light gray, or gray sandy materials. It is underlain by white sandy horizons to a depth of 60 in. or more, or the white sands may be underlain by yellow sands at depths of 10 to 30 in. Q.-Does the type of soil have any effect on the amount of water used for irrigation? Very much so. The finer the texture of the soil, the more water it takes to bring it to field capacity. For example, clay soils that are dry need much more moisture from irrigation before water becomes available to plants. By the same token, these clay soils take much longer to dry out, with the result that plants remain turgid over a longer period of time. Q.-What are the flatwoods soils of Florida? These are the most abundant and familiar soils of Florida. They occur on large flat areas in the state, supporting a native growth of shrubs, palmettos, and pine trees. Flatwoods soils are very acid, gray to black sands, and they have a low native fertility. Forming the familiar ponds and swamps, the water table may be just below the surface, at the surface, or above the surface of the soil. With adequate drainage and other proper management, many of these soils produce excellent crops and pastures. Q.-Why does the black color of my garden soil disappear when I dig down into it? In many of Florida's sandy soils, a distinct leached zone appears just below the surface. This is a natural condition which is common to many soil types found in regions of high rainfall. For similar soils that have not been plowed or cultivated, this condition is even more pronounced. FLORIDA'S SOILS 15 Q.-What are the "scrub oak soils" of Florida? Scrub oak soils generally refer to soils supporting a natural growth of scrub live oaks, turkey oaks, and usually some sand pine, rose- mary, runner oak, prickly pear cactus, saw palmetto, and wire- grass. The soils are usually excessively drained, highly leached, and low in natural fertility. The surface soil consists of thin, light gray, or gray sandy materials. It is underlain by white sandy horizons to a depth of 60 in. or more, or the white sands may be underlain by yellow sands at depths of 10 to 30 in. Q.-Does the type of soil have any effect on the amount of water used for irrigation? Very much so. The finer the texture of the soil, the more water it takes to bring it to field capacity. For example, clay soils that are dry need much more moisture from irrigation before water becomes available to plants. By the same token, these clay soils take much longer to dry out, with the result that plants remain turgid over a longer period of time. Q.-What are the flatwoods soils of Florida? These are the most abundant and familiar soils of Florida. They occur on large fiat areas in the state, supporting a native growth of shrubs, palmettos, and pine trees. Flatwoods soils are very acid, gray to black sands, and they have a low native fertility. Forming the familiar ponds and swamps, the water table may be just below the surface, at the surface, or above the surface of the soil. With adequate drainage and other proper management, many of these soils produce excellent crops and pastures. Q.-Why does the black color of my garden soil disappear when I dig down into it? In many of Florida's sandy soils, a distinct leached zone appears just below the surface. This is a natural condition which is common to many soil types found in regions of high rainfall. For similar soils that have not been plowed or cultivated, this condition is even more pronounced.  X TWO X X TWO X X TWO X Conservation Q.-What are some good summer cover crops for Florida gar- dens? For a moist soil, sesbania is one of the best. Soils that are well drained will respond better to Florida beggarweed, hairy indigo, and crotalaria. Q.-Is all soil erosion bad? Only the erosion that disturbs the balance of nature, or man- made erosion that causes the loss of topsoil faster than it can form, is detrimental. Natural erosion is a necessary factor in the formation of world soils. We would have no soils if it were not for the wearing down of the mountains and hills, the filling in of the valleys, and the deposition of materials from streams, lakes, and oceans. Q.-What is the best way to prevent leaching of fertilizers? Soils with a high colloidal content leach very slowly. Therefore, humus, clay, or both are the principal inhibitors of fertilizer leaching. Growing plants also prevent losses of fertilizers by 16 Conservation Q.-What are some good summer cover crops for Florida gar- dens? For a moist soil, sesbania is one of the best. Soils that are well drained will respond better to Florida beggarweed, hairy indigo, and crotalaria. Q.-Is all soil erosion bad? Only the erosion that disturbs the balance of nature, or man- made erosion that causes the loss of topsoil faster than it can form, is detrimental. Natural erosion is a necessary factor in the formation of world soils. We would have no soils if it were not for the wearing down of the mountains and hills, the filling in of the valleys, and the deposition of materials from streams, lakes, and oceans. Q.-What is the best way to prevent leaching of fertilizers? Soils with a high colloidal content leach very slowly. Therefore, humus, clay, or both are the principal inhibitors of fertilizer leaching. Growing plants also prevent losses of fertilizers by 16 Conservation Q.-What are some good summer cover crops for Florida gar- dens? For a moist soil, sesbania is one of the best. Soils that are well drained will respond better to Florida beggarweed, hairy indigo, and crotalaria. Q.-Is all soil erosion bad? Only the erosion that disturbs the balance of nature, or man- made erosion that causes the loss of topsoil faster than it can form, is detrimental. Natural erosion is a necessary factor in the formation of world soils. We would have no soils if it were not for the wearing down of the mountains and hills, the filling in of the valleys, and the deposition of materials from streams, lakes, and oceans. Q.-What is the best way to prevent leaching of fertilizers? Soils with a high colloidal content leach very slowly. Therefore, humus, clay, or both are the principal inhibitors of fertilizer leaching. Growing plants also prevent losses of fertilizers by 16  CONSERVATION 17 taking them up through the roots and returning them to the tops. Growing plants and maintenance of organic matter are the best protection against losses of fertilizers by leaching. Q.-Why does my garden soil erode erery time a heavy rain falls on it? I assume that your garden is on a slope and has some surface runoff. The best way to stop erosion is to have plants growing on a sloping garden the year around. The garden plants should be set in rows across the slope, not uphill and downhill. If the soil must be exposed to the elements for any length of time, it is wise to leave a plant residue mulch on the surface to give some protection from the beating rain and resulting runoff. Q.-Will the use of fertilizer help in conserving the soil? Fertilizers promote a heavy growth of all types of vegetation. Soils that are low in fertilizer elements support little or no pro- tective plant cover. These soils are subject to erosion. A good cover of vegetation also promotes rapid infiltration of rains, due to the undisturbed and unpacked condition of the soil surface. Q.-What is the relation of plant residues and organic matter to soil conservation? Soils with a high organic matter content or with a liberal plant residue on the surface, or both, allow for rapid infiltration of rainfall and little or no loss of topsoil. Next to the growing plant itself, plant residues and organic matter help retard soil erosion. Q.-What is meant by infiltration of rain? This pertains to the entrance of rain water into the soil. The more porous and coarse the texture of the surface soil, the greater the amount of infiltration of rain. Q.-What is a simple method for constructing a small pond? For shallow ponds of one acre or less, a simple earthen dam with a suitable spillway can be constructed with ordinary farm CONSERVATION 17 CONSERVATION 17 taking them up through the roots and returning them to the tops. Growing plants and maintenance of organic matter are the best protection against losses of fertilizers by leaching. Q.-Why does my garden soil erode every time a heavy rain falls on it? I assume that your garden is on a slope and has some surface runoff. The best way to stop erosion is to have plants growing on a sloping garden the year around. The garden plants should be set in rows across the slope, not uphill and downhill. If the soil must be exposed to the elements for any length of time, it is wise to leave a plant residue mulch on the surface to give some protection from the beating rain and resulting runoff. Q.-Will the use of fertilizer help in conserving the soil? Fertilizers promote a heavy growth of all types of vegetation. Soils that are low in fertilizer elements support little or no pro- tective plant cover. These soils are subject to erosion. A good cover of vegetation also promotes rapid infiltration of rains, due to the undisturbed and unpacked condition of the soil surface. Q.-What is the relation of plant residues and organic matter to soil conservation? Soils with a high organic matter content or with a liberal plant residue on the surface, or both, allow for rapid infiltration of rainfall and little or no loss of topsoil. Next to the growing plant itself, plant residues and organic matter help retard soil erosion. Q.-What is meant by infiltration of rain? This pertains to the entrance of rain water into the soil. The more porous and coarse the texture of the surface soil, the greater the amount of infiltration of rain. Q.-What is a simple method for constructing a small pond? For shallow ponds of one acre or less, a simple earthen dam with a suitable spillway can be constructed with ordinary farm taking them up through the roots and returning them to the tops. Growing plants and maintenance of organic matter are the best protection against losses of fertilizers by leaching. Q.-Why does my garden soil erode every time a heavy rain falls on it? I assume that your garden is on a slope and has some surface runoff. The best way to stop erosion is to have plants growing on a sloping garden the year around. The garden plants should be set in rows across the slope, not uphill and downhill. If the soil must be exposed to the elements for any length of time, it is wise to leave a plant residue mulch on the surface to give some protection from the beating rain and resulting runoff. Q,-Will the use of fertilizer help in conserving the soil? Fertilizers promote a heavy growth of all types of vegetation. Soils that are low in fertilizer elements support little or no pro- tective plant cover. These soils are subject to erosion. A good cover of vegetation also promotes rapid infiltration of rains, due to the undisturbed and unpacked condition of the soil surface. Q.-What is the relation of plant residues and organic matter to soil conservation? Soils with a high organic matter content or with a liberal plant residue on the surface, or both, allow for rapid infiltration of rainfall and little or no loss of topsoil. Next to the growing plant itself, plant residues and organic matter help retard soil erosion. Q.-What is meant by infiltration of rain? This pertains to the entrance of rain water into the soil. The more porous and coarse the texture of the surface soil, the greater the amount of infiltration of rain. Q.-What is a simple method for constructing a small pond? For shallow ponds of one acre or less, a simple earthen dam with a suitable spillway can be constructed with ordinary farm  18 YoUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 18 YoUR FLORIDA GARDEN SoILs 18 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS machinery. Generally, a double-disk plow and drag can be used for making dams that need not be over 4 to 5 ft. in height. For further information on farm ponds, contact your County Agricultural Agent for free literature. Q.-How can I prevent sand from blowing? Plant fast-growing trees or shrubs that will yield height and density. In general, the protection you gain from sand blowing will be about ten times the height of the windbreak. A strip of thick growing plants will retard soil blowing. For example, a windbreak of pine trees is 40 ft. in height. You will get 400 ft. of protection beyond the windbreak from sand blowing. Q.-I have a small garden on sloping land. Should I put the rows on the contour? In a small garden, say % acre, it would be more practical simply to run the rows across the slope, parallel to each other. For pre- venting erosion in larger gardens, where the slope of the land changes, it is necessary to use the contour system. Q.-How can I conserve at least a part of the fertilizer that is put on my garden? There are several ways in which one may conserve at least a part of the fertilizer. They may be listed as follows: 1. Use only split applications of fertilizer during the growing season. 2. Apply only the amount and kind that is recommended. Both garden plants and cover crops of all kinds take up fertilizers through the roots and return them to the tops. Residues from these plants return fertilizers to the topsoil. 3. Do not overirrigate your garden. If the garden is on a slope, prevent runoff at the surface by approved conservation methods. Q.-In preparation for planting lawn seed, I wish to plow and harrow a steep slope this winter. Should I worry about the soil eroding? machinery. Generally, a double-disk plow and drag can be used for making dams that need not be over 4 to 5 ft. in height. For further information on farm ponds, contact your County Agricultural Agent for free literature. Q.-How can I prevent sand from blowing? Plant fast-growing trees or shrubs that will yield height and density. In general, the protection you gain from sand blowing will be about ten times the height of the windbreak. A strip of thick growing plants will retard soil blowing. For example, a windbreak of pine trees is 40 ft. in height. You will get 400 ft. of protection beyond the windbreak from sand blowing. Q.-I have a small garden on sloping land. Should I put the rows on the contour? In a small garden, say % acre, it would be more practical simply to run the rows across the slope, parallel to each other. For pre- venting erosion in larger gardens, where the slope of the land changes, it is necessary to use the contour system. Q.-How can I conserve at least a part of the fertilizer that is put on my garden? There are several ways in which one may conserve at least a part of the fertilizer. They may be listed as follows: 1. Use only split applications of fertilizer during the growing season,. 2. Apply only the amount and kind that is recommended. Both garden plants and cover crops of all kinds take up fertilizers through the roots and return them to the tops. Residues from these plants return fertilizers to the topsoil. 3. Do not overirrigate your garden. If the garden is on a slope, prevent runoff at the surface by approved conservation methods. Q.-In preparation for planting lawn seed, I wish to plow and harrow a steep slope this winter. Should I worry about the soil eroding? machinery. Generally, a double-disk plow and drag can be used for making dams that need not be over 4 to 5 ft. in height. For further information on farm ponds, contact your County Agricultural Agent for free literature. Q.-How can I prevent sand from blowing? Plant fast-growing trees or shrubs that will yield height and density. In general, the protection you gain from sand blowing will be about ten times the height of the windbreak. A strip of thick growing plants will retard soil blowing. For example, a windbreak of pine trees is 40 ft. in height. You will get 400 ft. of protection beyond the windbreak from sand blowing. Q.-I have a small garden on sloping land. Should I put the rows on the contour? In a small garden, say % acre, it would be more practical simply to run the rows across the slope, parallel to each other. For pre- venting erosion in larger gardens, where the slope of the land changes, it is necessary to use the contour system. Q.-How can I conserve at least a part of the fertilizer that is put on my garden? There are several ways in which one may conserve at least a part of the fertilizer. They may be listed as follows: 1. Use only split applications of fertilizer during the growing season. 2. Apply only the amount and kind that is recommended. Both garden plants and cover crops of all kinds take up fertilizers through the roots and return them to the tops. Residues from these plants return fertilizers to the topsoil. 3. Do not overirrigate your garden. If the garden is on a slope, prevent runoff at the surface by approved conservation methods. Q.-In preparation for planting lawn seed, I wish to plow and harrow a steep slope this winter. Should I worry about the soil eroding?  CONSERVATION 19 Yes, you should. Because of its coarser texture, sandy soil will allow much of the rain water to enter the soil. However, after the soil profile is saturated with water, runoff can cause serious erosion. See your County Agricultural Agent regarding a good plan for the protection of sloping land. Q.-I have an ideal site for a small pond. Is it worth while to construct one? It is worth while to construct a small pond on your property. Here are several good reasons for constructing one: 1. It keeps the water table of adjacent areas at higher levels. 2. It acts as a water storage for fire protection and irrigation. 3. It is excellent for watering livestock. 4. It makes an ideal recreational spot. 5. It adds to the resale value of your property. Q.-What is soil puddling and how does this affect my garden? When the surface of garden soil is exposed to a heavy rain storm, it soon becomes sealed or puddled. The beating raindrops break down the soil structure and fill in the voids with fine soil ma- terial. This process soon seals the surface against infiltration of rain water, allowing it to evaporate, or, in the case of slopes, to cause surface runoff and loss of valuable topsoil. Q.-Although my garden is flat land, I have been advised not to leave it bare of vegetation. Is this correct? In the conservation of soil and water, even on flat lands, plants of any kind are helpful. Plant roots absorb and store valuable fertilizers to be returned to the soil when the tops are turned under. At the same time, they maintain the organic matter con- tent of the soil. Growing plants keep soil porous, allowing water to enter freely. Q.-What is the best protection in preventing soil erosion? Growing plants offer the best protection, the type determining the degree. For example, a heavy grass sod is considered 100 per cent protection from soil erosion. CONSERVATION 19 CONSERVATION 19 Yes, you should. Because of its coarser texture, sandy soil will allow much of the rain water to enter the soil. However, after the soil profile is saturated with water, runoff can cause serious erosion. See your County Agricultural Agent regarding a good plan for the protection of sloping land. Q.-I have an ideal site for a small pond. Is it worth while to construct one? It is worth while to construct a small pond on your property. Here are several good reasons for constructing one: 1. It keeps the water table of adjacent areas at higher levels. 2. It acts as a water storage for fire protection and irrigation. 3. It is excellent for watering livestock. 4. It makes an ideal recreational spot. 5. It adds to the resale value of your property. Q.-What is soil puddling and how does this affect my garden? When the surface of garden soil is exposed to a heavy rain storm, it soon becomes sealed or puddled. The beating raindrops break down the soil structure and fill in the voids with fine soil ma- terial. This process soon seals the surface against infiltration of rain water, allowing it to evaporate, or, in the case of slopes, to cause surface runoff and loss of valuable topsoil. Q.-Although my garden is fiat land, I have been advised not to leave it bare of vegetation. Is this correct? In the conservation of soil and water, even on flat lands, plants of any kind are helpful. Plant roots absorb and store valuable fertilizers to be returned to the soil when the tops are turned under. At the same time, they maintain the organic matter con- tent of the soil. Growing plants keep soil porous, allowing water to enter freely. Q.-What is the best protection in preventing soil erosion? Growing plants offer the best protection, the type determining the degree. For example, a heavy grass sod is considered 100 per cent protection from soil erosion. Yes, you should. Because of its coarser texture, sandy soil will allow much of the rain water to enter the soil. However, after the soil profile is saturated with water, runoff can cause serious erosion. See your County Agricultural Agent regarding a good plan for the protection of sloping land. Q.-I have an ideal site for a small pond. Is it worth while to construct one? It is worth while to construct a small pond on your property. Here are several good reasons for constructing one: I. It keeps the water table of adjacent areas at higher levels. 2. It acts as a water storage for fire protection and irrigation. 3. It is excellent for watering livestock. 4. It makes an ideal recreational spot. 5. It adds to the resale value of your property. Q.-What is soil puddling and how does this affect my garden? When the surface of garden soil is exposed to a heavy rain storm, it soon becomes sealed or puddled. The beating raindrops break down the soil structure and fill in the voids with fine soil ma- terial. This process soon seals the surface against infiltration of rain water, allowing it to evaporate, or, in the case of slopes, to cause surface runoff and loss of valuable topsoil. Q.-Although my garden is fiat land, I have been advised not to leave it bare of vegetation. Is this correct? In the conservation of soil and water, even on flat lands, plants of any kind are helpful. Plant roots absorb and store valuable fertilizers to be returned to the soil when the tops are turned under. At the same time, they maintain the organic matter con- tent of the soil. Growing plants keep soil porous, allowing water to enter freely. Q.-What is the best protection in preventing soil erosion? Growing plants offer the best protection, the type determining the degree. For example, a heavy grass sod is considered 100 per cent protection from soil erosion.  20 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 20 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 20 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.--What part do roots of plants play in soil conservation? They play a large part. Probably one-half of the soil organic matter is maintained by the plant root residues of the soil. Plant roots keep the soil porous, allowing rain water to enter readily. Valuable fertilizer elements are returned to the tops of plants where they augment fertility of the topsoil. Q.-Why do I have more trouble with soil erosion in my corn plot than in my sweet potato plot? Corn is a clean-tilled crop that does not form a solid vegetative cover for protecting the surface of the soil from beating rains. Under these conditions, the surface of the soil soon puddles or seals over, preventing the absorption of water. In sloping garden soils, the accumulation of surface water could cause losses of soil by runoff. Sweet potato vines form a compact cover of leaves, which protects the structure of the soil surface from beating rains; the raindrop force is broken and the water trickles into the un- disturbed soil. Q.-Is it true that soil can erode under a tree just as well as in the open? Soils will erode under trees. The degree of erosion depends on the height of the lower branches from the ground and the amount of ground cover under the tree. In grazed woods, where the soil may be bare under a tree, it can be eroded easily. This is caused by the extra large drops of water that fall from the branches of the tree. If these large drops are intercepted by some form of ground cover, the force of the droplets is broken. Without dis- turbing the structure of the soil surface, water enters the soil freely. Q.-The rows in my garden run uphill and downhill. Why are the plants at the bottom of the hill so much better than plants at the top? Whenever it rains, a portion of your topsoil and fertilizers is moved down the hill. Finally, it concentrates at the base. Plants Q.-What part do roots of plants play in soil conservation? They play a large part. Probably one-half of the soil organic matter is maintained by the plant root residues of the soil. Plant roots keep the soil porous, allowing rain water to enter readily. Valuable fertilizer elements are returned to the tops of plants where they augment fertility of the topsoil. Q.-Why do I have more trouble with soil erosion in my corn plot than in my sweet potato plot? Corn is a clean-tilled crop that does not form a solid vegetative cover for protecting the surface of the soil from beating rains. Under these conditions, the surface of the soil soon puddles or seals over, preventing the absorption of water. In sloping garden soils, the accumulation of surface water could cause losses of soil by runoff. Sweet potato vines form a compact cover of leaves, which protects the structure of the soil surface from beating rains; the raindrop force is broken and the water trickles into the un- disturbed soil. Q.-Is it true that soil can erode under a tree just as well as in the open? Soils will erode under trees. The degree of erosion depends on the height of the lower branches from the ground and the amount of ground cover under the tree. In grazed woods, where the soil may be bare under a tree, it can be eroded easily. This is caused by the extra large drops of water that fall from the branches of the tree. If these large drops are intercepted by some form of ground cover, the force of the droplets is broken. Without dis- turbing the structure of the soil surface, water enters the soil freely. Q.-The rows in my garden run uphill and downhill. Why are the plants at the bottom of the hill so much better than plants at the top? Whenever it rains, a portion of your topsoil and fertilizers is moved down the hill. Finally, it concentrates at the base. Plants Q.-What part do roots of plants play in soil conservation? They play a large part. Probably one-half of the soil organic matter is maintained by the plant root residues of the soil. Plant roots keep the soil porous, allowing rain water to enter readily. Valuable fertilizer elements are returned to the tops of plants where they augment fertility of the topsoil. Q.-Why do I have more trouble with soil erosion in my corn plot than in my sweet potato plot? Corn is a clean-tilled crop that does not form a solid vegetative cover for protecting the surface of the soil from beating rains. Under these conditions, the surface of the soil soon puddles or seals over, preventing the absorption of water. In sloping garden soils, the accumulation of surface water could cause losses of soil by runoff. Sweet potato vines form a compact cover of leaves, which protects the structure of the soil surface from beating rains; the raindrop force is broken and the water trickles into the un- disturbed soil. Q.-Is it true that soil can erode under a tree just as well as in the open? Soils will erode under trees. The degree of erosion depends on the height of the lower branches from the ground and the amount of ground cover under the tree. In grazed woods, where the soil may be bare under a tree, it can be eroded easily. This is caused by the extra large drops of water that fall from the branches of the tree. If these large drops are intercepted by some form of ground cover, the force of the droplets is broken. Without dis- turbing the structure of the soil surface, water enters the soil freely. Q.-The rows in my garden run uphill and downhill. Why are the plants at the bottom of the hill so much better than plants at the top? Whenever it rains, a portion of your topsoil and fertilizers is moved down the hill. Finally, it concentrates at the base. Plants  CONSERVATION 21 CONSERVATION 21 CONSERVATION 21 growing at the bottom have the double benefit of their own soil fertility plus that from the top of the hill. The solution to this problem is to place the rows of plants across the slope rather than uphill and downhill. Q.-Do trees make good windbreaks? Evergreen trees, that keep their foliage the year around, make the best windbreaks. Of these, the fast-growing conifers are preferred. Q.-Why are the erect types of plants in a garden less effective in preventing soil erosion than the low spreading types? In the erect type of planting, more soil is exposed to the beating raindrops. Thus, more soil erosion takes place. Q.-Is it good soil conservation practice to mix grass seed with a selected legume prior to planting? Many legumes are well adapted to Florida soils and definitely improve growth of the grass and fertility of the soil they are growing in. Q.-What is the best way to prevent leaching losses of fertilizers? Keeping a growing crop on the land throughout the year is the best way to prevent leaching losses of fertilizer. Q.-I have heard that trees are good for protecting soils against erosion, yet I have soil erosion under my trees. What is wrong? If trees have something growing under them, they are good for soil protection. Under a tree, drops of water falling to the ground are many times larger than those falling from the clouds. These large drops of water can do much damage to a bare sloping soil under a tree. Grasses or shrubs growing under trees give excellent protection against soil erosion. Q.-Does Florida have a problem of wind erosion? Yes, indeed. During the months of March, April, and May, when prolonged dry spells are common, the newly-plowed sandy growing at the bottom have the double benefit of their own soil fertility plus that from the top of the hill. The solution to this problem is to place the rows of plants across the slope rather than uphill and downhill. Q.-Do trees make good windbreaks? Evergreen trees, that keep their foliage the year around, make the best windbreaks. Of these, the fast-growing conifers are preferred. Q.-Why are the erect types of plants in a garden less effective in preventing soil erosion than the low spreading types? In the erect type of planting, more soil is exposed to the beating raindrops. Thus, more soil erosion takes place. Q.-Is it good soil conservation practice to mix grass seed with a selected legume prior to planting? Many legumes are well adapted to Florida soils and definitely improve growth of the grass and fertility of the soil they are growing in. Q.-What is the best way to prevent leaching losses of fertilizers? Keeping a growing crop on the land throughout the year is the best way to prevent leaching losses of fertilizer. Q.-I have heard that trees are good for protecting soils against erosion, yet I have soil erosion under my trees. What is wrong? If trees have something growing under them, they are good for soil protection. Under a tree, drops of water falling to the ground are many times larger than those falling from the clouds. These large drops of water can do much damage to a bare sloping soil under a tree. Grasses or shrubs growing under trees give excellent protection against soil erosion. Q.-Does Florida have a problem of wind erosion? Yes, indeed. During the months of March, April, and May, when prolonged dry spells are common, the newly-plowed sandy growing at the bottom have the double benefit of their own soil fertility plus that from the top of the hill. The solution to this problem is to place the rows of plants across the slope rather than uphill and downhill. Q.-Do trees make good windbreaks? Evergreen trees, that keep their foliage the year around, make the best windbreaks. Of these, the fast-growing conifers are preferred. Q.-Why are the erect types of plants in a garden less effective in preventing soil erosion than the low spreading types? In the erect type of planting, more soil is exposed to the beating raindrops. Thus, more soil erosion takes place. Q.-Is it good soil conservation practice to mix grass seed with a selected legume prior to planting? Many legumes are well adapted to Florida soils and definitely improve growth of the grass and fertility of the soil they are growing in. Q.-What is the best way to prevent leaching losses of fertilizers? Keeping a growing crop on the land throughout the year is the best way to prevent leaching losses of fertilizer. Q.-I have heard that trees are good for protecting soils against erosion, yet I have soil erosion under my trees. What is wrong? If trees have something growing under them, they are good for soil protection. Under a tree, drops of water falling to the ground are many times larger than those falling from the clouds. These large drops of water can do much damage to a bare sloping soil under a tree. Grasses or shrubs growing under trees give excellent protection against soil erosion. Q.-Does Florida have a problem of wind erosion? Yes, indeed. During the months of March, April, and May, when prolonged dry spells are common, the newly-plowed sandy  SOIL AND WATER LOSSES wOET CR ANAD GRAS- .T FLLI -A- -AN LN SOIL AND WATER LOSSES fill '1" If' AOET CR - --AN SOIL AND WATER LOSSES gg l fil ili FORSE hOR -NDA -  CONSERVATION 23 soils are exposed to the force of wind. This occurs where there are few or no natural windbreaks, such as trees or buildings. Winds of average velocity can remove smaller and lighter portions of suface soil; winds of high velocity can remove coarse sand particles. Q.-How can wind erosion damage a garden plot? Wind erosion attacks the surface soil which is the plow layer or portion where plants find ideal growing conditions. The best part of the plow layer is the organic matter, silt, and clay particles. It is these small, light particles that wind picks up and carries off, leaving coarse, sterile sand particles behind. Q.-What part does soil texture play in the control of accelerated soil erosion? Soil texture plays annimportant part in the control of accelerated erosion. The coarser the texture, the more rapid the infiltration of all types of rainfall, both heavy and light. In soils of coarser texture, the moisture is stored in the soil and not left on the surface to cause accelerated soil erosion. The opposite is true for fine-textured soils such as clays. Q.-What is meant by accelerated soil erosion? Natural erosion is necessary for normal soil formation. When this natural balance is disturbed, accelerated soil erosion takes place, resulting in losses of soil and water. Q.-I am told that the natural water table will drop if the land is kept bare of growing plants. Is this true? This is a true statement. Under the impact of rain, fallow soil soon seals. Instead of entering the soil for natural storage, the surface water evaporates or runs off the surface. Q.-My garden soil erodes rapidly with a heavy rain and not at all with a light rainfall. Why is this? Even the most erodible soil will absorb and store moisture from a light gentle rain. Because of its fine texture, this same soil CONSERVATION 23 CONSERVATION 23 soils are exposed to the force of wind. This occurs where there are few or no natural windbreaks, such as trees or buildings. Winds of average velocity can remove smaller and lighter portions of soeface soil; winds of high velocity can remove coarse sand particles. Q.-How can wind erosion damage a garden plot? Wind erosion attacks the surface soil which is the plow layer or portion where plants find ideal growing conditions. The best part of the plow layer is the organic matter, silt, and clay particles. It is these small, light particles that wind picks up and carries off, leaving coarse, sterile sand particles behind. Q.-What part does soil texture play in the control of accelerated soil erosion? Soil texture plays an Important part in the control of accelerated erosion. The coarser the texture, the more rapid the infiltration of all types of rainfall, both heavy and light. In soils of coarser texture, the moisture is stored in the soil and not left on the surface to cause accelerated soil erosion. The opposite is true for fine-textured soils such as clays. Q.-What is meant by accelerated soil erosion? Natural erosion is necessary for normal soil formation. When this natural balance is disturbed, accelerated soil erosion takes place, resulting in losses of soil and water. Q.-I am told that the natural water table will drop if the land is kept bare of growing plants. Is this true? This is a true statement. Under the impact of rain, fallow soil soon seals. Instead of entering the soil for natural storage, the surface water evaporates or runs off the surface. Q.-My garden soil erodes rapidly with a heavy rain and not at all with a light rainfall. Why is this? Even the most erodible soil will absorb and store moisture from a light gentle rain. Because of its fine texture, this same soil soils are exposed to the force of wind. This occurs where there are few or no natural windbreaks, such as trees or buildings. Winds of average velocity can remove smaller and lighter portions of suface soil; winds of high velocity can remove coarse sand particles. Q.-How can wind erosion damage a garden plot? Wind erosion attacks the surface soil which is the plow layer or portion where plants find ideal growing conditions. The best part of the plow layer is the organic matter, silt, and clay particles. It is these small, light particles that wind picks up and carries off, leaving coarse, sterile sand particles behind. Q.-What part does soil texture play in the control of accelerated soil erosion? Soil texture plays an important part in the control of accelerated erosion. The coarser the texture, the more rapid the infiltration of all types of rainfall, both heavy and light. In soils of coarser texture, the moisture is stored in the soil and not left on the surface to cause accelerated soil erosion. The opposite is true for fine-textured soils such as clays. Q.-What is meant by accelerated soil erosion? Natural erosion is necessary for normal soil formation. When this natural balance is disturbed, accelerated soil erosion takes place, resulting in losses of soil and water. Q.-I am told that the natural water table will drop if the land is kept bare of growing plants. Is this true? This is a true statement. Under the impact of rain, fallow soil soon seals. Instead of entering the soil for natural storage, the surface water evaporates or runs off the surface. Q.-My garden soil erodes rapidly with a heavy rain and not at all with a light rainfall. Why is this? Even the most erodible soil will absorb and store moisture from a light gentle rain. Because of its fine texture, this same soil  24 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS cannot absorb a heavy rainfall fast enough. Thus, much of the rain water must remain on or flow off the surface. Q.-What are some ways in which growing plants aid in soil conservation? Growing plants aid in soil conservation in a number of ways. 1. Close growing plants form a protective shield against the im- pact of rainfall. 2. Roots penetrate into the soil, allowing water to sink deeper. 3. Roots knit and bind the soil together, helping to keep it in one place. 4. Dead roots add to the valuable organic matter in the soil. 5. Soil remains porous under plant growth, absorbing large amounts of water. Q.-Why are shallow surface soils more seriously damaged by runoff or rain water than deep soils? The depth in which weathered clay materials are found in a soil designates whether it is deep or shallow. When the surface soil is shallow, it has a limited ability for absorbing enough water before it is saturated and runoff begins. The ability to absorb rain water will also be influenced by the kind and intensity of the rain striking the soil. Q.-- am told to plant a legume for a cover crop. Why is this? There are several good reasons why one should plant a legume for a cover or green manure crop. 1. Legumes have nodules on their roots that contain symbiotic bacteria which enable them to add nitrogen to the soil. 2. Legumes have a high content of proteins and lignins which aid in the maintenance of the soil organic matter when turned under. 3. Selected legumes yield an abundance of foliage which aids in protecting the surface of the soil against erosion. 4. Most legumes have a deep root system which enables them to bring valuable plant food elements to the surface of the soil. 24 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS cannot absorb a heavy rainfall fast enough. Thus, much of the rain water must remain on or flow off the surface. Q.-What are some ways in which growing plants aid in soil conservation? Growing plants aid in soil conservation in a number of ways. 1. Close growing plants form a protective shield against the im- pact of rainfall. 2. Roots penetrate into the soil, allowing water to sink deeper. 3. Roots knit and bind the soil together, helping to keep it in one place. 4. Dead roots add to the valuable organic matter in the soil. 5. Soil remains porous under plant growth, absorbing large amounts of water. Q.-Why are shallow surface soils more seriously damaged by runoff or rain water than deep soils? The depth in which weathered clay materials are found in a soil designates whether it is deep or shallow. When the surface soil is shallow, it has a limited ability for absorbing enough water before it is saturated and runoff begins. The ability to absorb rain water will also be influenced by the kind and intensity of the rain striking the soil. Q.-f am told to plant a legume for a cover crop. Why is this? There are several good reasons why one should plant a legume for a cover or green manure crop. 1. Legumes have nodules on their roots that contain symbiotic bacteria which enable them to add nitrogen to the soil. 2. Legumes have a high content of proteins and lignins which aid in the maintenance of the soil organic matter when turned under. 3. Selected legumes yield an abundance of foliage which aids in protecting the surface of the soil against erosion. 4. Most legumes have a deep root system which enables them to bring valuable plant food elements to the surface of the soil. 24 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS cannot absorb a heavy rainfall fast enough. Thus, much of the rain water must remain on or flow off the surface. Q.-What are some ways in which growing plants aid in soil conservation? Growing plants aid in soil conservation in a number of ways. 1. Close growing plants form a protective shield against the im- pact of rainfall. 2. Roots penetrate into the soil, allowing water to sink deeper. 3. Roots knit and bind the soil together, helping to keep it in one place. 4. Dead roots add to the valuable organic matter in the soil. 5. Soil remains porous under plant growth, absorbing large amounts of water. Q.-Why are shallow surface soils more seriously damaged by runoff or rain water than deep soils? The depth in which weathered clay materials are found in a soil designates whether it is deep or shallow. When the surface soil is shallow, it has a limited ability for absorbing enough water before it is saturated and runoff begins. The ability to absorb rain water will also be influenced by the kind and intensity of the rain striking the soil. Q.- am told to plant a legume for a cover crop. Why is this? There are several good reasons why one should plant a legume for a cover or green manure crop. I. Legumes have nodules on their roots that contain symbiotic bacteria which enable them to add nitrogen to the soil. 2. Legumes have a high content of proteins and lignins which aid in the maintenance of the soil organic matter when turned under. 3. Selected legumes yield an abundance of foliage which aids in protecting the surface of the soil against erosion. 4. Most legumes have a deep root system which enables them to bring valuable plant food elements to the surface of the soil.  X THREE X X THREE X X THREE X Fertility, Management, and Plant Growth Q.-How can I arrange a good garden soil management calendar? Go to your County Agricultural Agent's office and procure enough vegetable production guides for the different plants you wish to grow. Study these guides and fit the pertinent information to your soil and climatic conditions. From this information, write your garden soil management calendar. Be sure to note the sug- gestions on fertilizer, moisture, pest control, soil reaction, and plant varieties. Q.-What is a desirable ratio of sand, silt, clay, and organic matter for a garden soil? Garden soils come as they are. It is a matter of selecting the best soil type available on your land. For general information, a loam texture contains about 15 per cent clay, 40 per cent silt, and 45 per cent sand. To make it an ideal garden loam, about 4 per cent of this mixture should be organic matter. Q.-If I plant rye grass in the summer, will it compete with my permanent lawn grass for moisture and nutrients? 25 Fertility, Managenent, and Plant Growth Q.-How can I arrange a good garden soil management calendar? Go to your County Agricultural Agent's office and procure enough vegetable production guides for the different plants you wish to grow. Study these guides and fit the pertinent information to your soil and climatic conditions. From this information, write your garden soil management calendar. Be sure to note the sug- gestions on fertilizer, moisture, pest control, soil reaction, and plant varieties. Q.-What is a desirable ratio of sand, silt, clay, and organic matter for a garden soil? Garden soils come as they are. It is a matter of selecting the best soil type available on your land. For general information, a loam texture contains about 15 per cent clay, 40 per cent silt, and 45 per cent sand. To make it an ideal garden loam, about 4 per cent of this mixture should be organic matter. Q.-If I plant rye grass in the summer, will it compete with my permanent lawn grass for moisture and nutrients? 25 Fertility, Management, and Plant Growth Q.-How can I arrange a good garden soil management calendar? Go to your County Agricultural Agent's office and procure enough vegetable production guides for the different plants you wish to grow. Study these guides and fit the pertinent information to your soil and climatic conditions. From this information, write your garden soil management calendar. Be sure to note the sug- gestions on fertilizer, moisture, pest control, soil reaction, and plant varieties. Q.-What is a desirable ratio of sand, silt, clay, and organic matter for a garden soil? Garden soils come as they are. It is a matter of selecting the best soil type available on your land. For general information, a loam texture contains about 15 per cent clay, 40 per cent silt, and 45 per cent sand. To make it an ideal garden loam, about 4 per cent of this mixture should be organic matter. Q.-If I plant rye grass in the summer, will it compete with my permanent lawn grass for moisture and nutrients? 25  26 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 26 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 26 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Yes, it will. However, this should not prevent you from planting rye grass. Make certain that your rye grass is kept moist and well fertilized. By doing this, you will be taking care of both the rye grass and live roots of your permanent lawn grass. Q.-In some of my garden sprays, I use copper, zinc, and man- ganese. Will these elements enter the soil, and will the soil derive any benefit from them? Some of the spray residue will drip from the leaves and branches to enter the soil. In some instances, the amount that enters the soil may be just as beneficial as the amount that can enter through the leaves. After all, roots are designed by nature to be highly effective in absorbing the necessary plant food require- ments for the growing plant. The principal reasons for nutrient sprays are to obtain a quicker response to certain essential plant elements. Q.-How can I use the leaf-drip area of my shrubs as a guide for applying mixed fertilizer? The leaf-drip area is the zone of the feeding roots of the plant. This area is also far enough away from the trunk of the plant to prevent burning by the raw fertilizer. When applying fertilizer, this area is generally a safe distance for most plants. Q.-Should fertilizer be applied when vegetables are setting fruit? Generally, most vegetables have utilized all the soil nutrients they need at this period of life. There are, however, some specific instances in which a side-dressing of certain fertilizers may be beneficial while the plants are setting fruit. For example, in order to develop a firmer tomato, either potassium chloride or potassium nitrate can be applied. At this period in the plant's life, such an application will be utilized to develop thick walls in the fruit. Q.-Are all of the plant food elements in the soil available to plants? Only a small fraction of the total amount of any essential plant Yes, it will. However, this should not prevent you from planting rye grass. Make certain that your rye grass is kept moist and well fertilized. By doing this, you will be taking care of both the rye grass and live roots of your permanent lawn grass. Q.-In some of my garden sprays, I use copper, zinc, and man- ganese. Will these elements enter the soil, and will the soil derive any benefit from them? Some of the spray residue will drip from the leaves and branches to enter the soil. In some instances, the amount that enters the soil may be just as beneficial as the amount that can enter through the leaves. After all, roots are designed by nature to be highly effective in absorbing the necessary plant food require- ments for the growing plant. The principal reasons for nutrient sprays are to obtain a quicker response to certain essential plant elements. Q.-How can I use the leaf-drip area of my shrubs as a guide for applying mixed fertilizer? The leaf-drip area is the zone of the feeding roots of the plant. This area is also far enough away from the trunk of the plant to prevent burning by the raw fertilizer. When applying fertilizer, this area is generally a safe distance for most plants. Q.-Should fertilizer be applied when vegetables are setting fruit? Generally, most vegetables have utilized all the soil nutrients they need at this period of life. There are, however, some specific instances in which a side-dressing of certain fertilizers may be beneficial while the plants are setting fruit. For example, in order to develop a firmer tomato, either potassium chloride or potassium nitrate can be applied. At this period in the plant's life, such an application will be utilized to develop thick walls in the fruit. Q.-Are all of the plant food elements in the soil available to plants? Only a small fraction of the total amount of any essential plant Yes, it will. However, this should not prevent you from planting rye grass. Make certain that your rye grass is kept moist and well fertilized. By doing this, you will be taking care of both the rye grass and live roots of your permanent lawn grass. Q.-In some of my garden sprays, I use copper, zinc, and man- ganese. Will these elements enter the soil, and will the soil derive any benefit from them? Some of the spray residue will drip from the leaves and branches to enter the soil. In some instances, the amount that enters the soil may be just as beneficial as the amount that can enter through the leaves. After all, roots are designed by nature to be highly effective in absorbing the necessary plant food require- ments for the growing plant. The principal reasons for nutrient sprays are to obtain a quicker response to certain essential plant elements. Q.-How can I use the leaf-drip area of my shrubs as a guide for applying mixed fertilizer? The leaf-drip area is the zone of the feeding roots of the plant. This area is also far enough away from the trunk of the plant to prevent burning by the raw fertilizer. When applying fertilizer, this area is generally a safe distance for most plants. Q.-Should fertilizer be applied when vegetables are setting fruit? Generally, most vegetables have utilized all the soil nutrients they need at this period of life. There are, however, some specific instances in which a side-dressing of certain fertilizers may be beneficial while the plants are setting fruit. For example, in order to develop a firmer tomato, either potassium chloride or potassium nitrate can be applied. At this period in the plant's life, such an application will be utilized to develop thick walls in the fruit. Q.-Are all of the plant food elements in the soil available to plants? Only a small fraction of the total amount of any essential plant  FERTILITY 27 FERTILITY 27 nutrient is available at any one time. The amount of nutrients available depend on the type of plant, kind of nutrient, weather conditions, type of soil, and moisture conditions within the soil. For example: A loamy soil with over 40,000 lbs. per acre of total potassium may yield only 200 lbs. per acre of available potassium. Even this would be considered good under typical conditions for most plants. Q.-Why is cottonseed meal sometimes recommended for top- dressing a growing lawn? Cottonseed meal has a protein value of about 20 per cent, which is considered relatively high. It is comparatively inexpensive. When used as a top-dressing, it decomposes slowly, liberating a steady flow of ammonia nitrogen into the soil. Some of the am- monia is used directly by plant roots; much of it is oxidized into nitrate nitrogen which is readily used by all plants. The higher the protein content of the cottonseed meal, the higher the amount of reserve nitrogen for future plant use. Q.-The recommendation for my dooryard citrus calls for spread- ing the fertilizer on the ground in the area of the leaf-drip. What does this mean? The leaf-drip is the area of the soil directly under the outside edge of the crown of the tree. This area is assumed to be the area of the feeding roots of the tree. The citrus tree receives the plant food elements as they are washed into the soil by rains or irrigation. Q.-I use high nitrogen fertilizer for my ornamentals to promote blooms. Instead, I get a large amount of leaf growth. What is wrong? Nitrogen is the plant food element that promotes vegetative growth. High nitrogen fertilizers, or any fertilizer that is supple- mented with excessive treatments of nitrogen top-dressings, will produce much leaf growth and less blooms. Nitrogen that is balanced with phosphorus and potassium, in amounts that are nutrient is available at any one time. The amount of nutrients available depend on the type of plant, kind of nutrient, weather conditions, type of soil, and moisture conditions within the soil. For example: A loamy soil with over 40,000 lbs. per acre of total potassium may yield only 200 lbs. per acre of available potassium. Even this would be considered good under typical conditions for most plants. Q.-Why is cottonseed meal sometimes recommended for top- dressing a growing lawn? Cottonseed meal has a protein value of about 20 per cent, which is considered relatively high. It is comparatively inexpensive. When used as a top-dressing, it decomposes slowly, liberating a steady flow of ammonia nitrogen into the soil. Some of the am- monia is used directly by plant roots; much of it is oxidized into nitrate nitrogen which is readily used by all plants. The higher the protein content of the cottonseed meal, the higher the amount of reserve nitrogen for future plant use. Q.-The recommendation for my dooryard citrus calls for spread- ing the fertilizer on the ground in the area of the leaf-drip. What does this mean? The leaf-drip is the area of the soil directly under the outside edge of the crown of the tree. This area is assumed to be the area of the feeding roots of the tree. The citrus tree receives the plant food elements as they are washed into the soil by rains or irrigation. Q.-I use high nitrogen fertilizer for my ornamentals to promote blooms. Instead, I get a large amount of leaf growth. What is wrong? Nitrogen is the plant food element that promotes vegetative growth. High nitrogen fertilizers, or any fertilizer that is supple- mented with excessive treatments of nitrogen top-dressings, wiil produce much leaf growth and less blooms. Nitrogen that is balanced with phosphorus and potassium, in amounts that are FERTILITY 27 nutrient is available at any one time. The amount of nutrients available depend on the type of plant, kind of nutrient, weather conditions, type of soil, and moisture conditions within the soil. For example: A loamy soil with over 40,000 lbs. per acre of total potassium may yield only 200 lbs. per acre of available potassium. Even this would be considered good under typical conditions for most plants. Q.-Why is cottonseed meal sometimes recommended for top- dressing a growing lawn? Cottonseed meal has a protein value of about 20 per cent, which is considered relatively high. It is comparatively inexpensive. When used as a top-dressing, it decomposes slowly, liberating a steady flow of ammonia nitrogen into the soil. Some of the am- monia is used directly by plant roots; much of it is oxidized into nitrate nitrogen which is readily used by all plants. The higher the protein content of the cottonseed meal, the higher the amount of reserve nitrogen for future plant use. Q.-The recommendation for my dooryard citrus calls for spread- ing the fertilizer on the ground in the area of the leaf-drip. What does this mean? The leaf-drip is the area of the soil directly under the outside edge of the crown of the tree. This area is assumed to be the area of the feeding roots of the tree. The citrus tree receives the plant food elements as they are washed into the soil by rains or irrigation. Q.-I use high nitrogen fertilizer for my ornamentals to promote blooms. Instead, I get a large amount of leaf growth. What is wrong? Nitrogen is the plant food element that promotes vegetative growth. High nitrogen fertilizers, or any fertilizer that is supple- mented with excessive treatments of nitrogen top-dressings, will produce much leaf growth and less blooms. Nitrogen that is balanced with phosphorus and potassium, in amounts that are  28 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS recommended for the kind of ornamental, will produce normal growth and adequate blooms. Q.-Can too much fertilizer be used on plants? You can kill plants with too much or too little fertilizer. For the plant and soil in question, it is good practice to stay as closely as possible to the fertilizer recommendation. To believe that "if a little is good, a lot is better" is a fallacy. Q.--What is the nitrogen cycle? The entire supply of nitrogen for native growth must come from the atmosphere. This is accomplished by soil bacteria, rainfall, and lightning. The largest amount of nitrogen is captured by the soil bacteria and finally stored in the humus content of the soil. As plants use some of the available nitrogen, they also contribute to the humus content of the soil. Some of the nitrogen is reduced to the atmospheric form to complete the nitrogen cycle of nature. Q.-I always plant by the moon. This year the moon failed me. What went wrong? May I suggest that you disregard the moon and write the State Agricultural Extension Service for a list of available bulletins which supply scientific information on the culture of plants. This Service has excellent publications covering all phases of garden- ing. These bulletins cost the people of this country millions of dollars and contain the most scientific information available. They are free for the asking. Q.-What are some good cover crops for garden plots? Whenever possible, a good selected legume that fits the season of the year should be selected as a garden cover crop. For in- formation on the best legume for your area and soil conditions, write to the State Agricultural Extension Service. Nonlegumes such as oats and rye, or just weed growth, are better than leaving soil exposed to the elements for any period of time. A good cover crop not only protects the surface of the soil but also can be 28 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SoILs recommended for the kind of ornamental, will produce normal growth and adequate blooms. Q.-Can too much fertilizer be used on plants? You can kill plants with too much or too little fertilizer. For the plant and soil in question, it is good practice to stay as closely as possible to the fertilizer recommendation. To believe that "if a little is good, a lot is better" is a fallacy. Q.-What is the nitrogen cycle? The entire supply of nitrogen for native growth must come from the atmosphere. This is accomplished by soil bacteria, rainfall, and lightning. The largest amount of nitrogen is captured by the soil bacteria and finally stored in the humus content of the soil. As plants use some of the available nitrogen, they also contribute to the humus content of the soil. Some of the nitrogen is reduced to the atmospheric form to complete the nitrogen cycle of nature. Q.-I always plant by the moon. This year the moon failed me. What went wrong? May I suggest that you disregard the moon and write the State Agricultural Extension Service for a list of available bulletins which supply scientific information on the culture of plants. This Service has excellent publications covering all phases of garden- ing. These bulletins cost the people of this country millions of dollars and contain the most scientific information available. They are free for the asking. Q.-What are some good cover crops for garden plots? Whenever possible, a good selected legume that fits the season of the year should be selected as a garden cover crop. For in- formation on the best legume for your area and soil conditions, write to the State Agricultural Extension Service. Nonlegumes such as oats and rye, or just weed growth, are better than leaving soil exposed to the elements for any period of time. A good cover crop not only protects the surface of the soil but also can be 28 YouR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS recommended for the kind of ornamental, will produce normal growth and adequate blooms. Q.-Can too much fertilizer be used on plants? You can kill plants with too much or too little fertilizer. For the plant and soil in question, it is good practice to stay as closely as possible to the fertilizer recommendation. To believe that "if a little is good, a lot is better" is a fallacy. Q.-What is the nitrogen cycle? The entire supply of nitrogen for native growth must come from the atmosphere. This is accomplished by soil bacteria, rainfall, and lightning. The largest amount of nitrogen is captured by the soil bacteria and finally stored in the humus content of the soil. As plants use some of the available nitrogen, they also contribute to the humus content of the soil. Some of the nitrogen is reduced to the atmospheric form to complete the nitrogen cycle of nature. Q.-I always plant by the moon. This year the moon failed me. What went wrong? May I suggest that you disregard the moon and write the State Agricultural Extension Service for a list of available bulletins which supply scientific information on the culture of plants. This Service has excellent publications covering all phases of garden- ing. These bulletins cost the people of this country millions of dollars and contain the most scientific information available. They are free for the asking. Q.-What are some good cover crops for garden plots? Whenever possible, a good selected legume that fits the season of the year should be selected as a garden cover crop. For in- formation on the best legume for your area and soil conditions, write to the State Agricultural Extension Service. Nonlegumes such as oats and rye, or just weed growth, are better than leaving soil exposed to the elements for any period of time. A good cover crop not only protects the surface of the soil but also can be  FERTILITY 29 FERTILITY 29 FERTILITY 29 turned under and used as a green manure crop to maintain the organic matter content. Q.-For better growth, should I keep the soil around plants stirred? When a mulch is not used around plants, the surface soil tends to seal over after a heavy rain, preventing good soil aeration. Stirring the soil around the plant not only gets rid of weed com- petition but also allows air to penetrate down to the feeder roots. Q.-Can heavy soils be made more workable? The most practical way to make Florida garden soils more work- able is to turn under a heavy green manure crop well ahead of planting. The green manure crop should be preferably a selected legume. Both the roots and the decaying plant residues tend to improve the structare of a fine-textured soil. Q.-Do plants have different requirements for the different plant nutrients? Yes, they do. High nitrogen plants, such as corn, require several applications of available nitrogen to mature properly. Tuberous and root crops require a higher relative balance of potassium to mature. Plants that do not have adequate amounts of phosphorus do not set a normal amount of blooms and fruit. For practical purposes, it is not possible to list the needs for every plant known. Instead, these plants are grouped according to their fertilizer needs and treated accordingly. Q.-How would I proceed to make a selected virgin soil into good garden soil? When converting virgin soils into garden soils, the following definite steps may be taken: 1. The site should afford ample light for favorable plant growth. 2. Plan for adequate moisture control for the garden. 3. Test for soil reaction and apply lime as needed. 4. Keep the soil in a well-aerated condition by proper plowing and cultivation. turned under and used as a green manure crop to maintain the organic matter content. Q.-For better growth, should I keep the soil around plants stirred? When a mulch is not used around plants, the surface soil tends to seal over after a heavy rain, preventing good soil aeration. Stirring the soil around the plant not only gets rid of weed com- petition but also allows air to penetrate down to the feeder roots. Q.-Can heavy soils be made more workable? The most practical way to make Florida garden soils more work- able is to turn under a heavy green manure crop well ahead of planting. The green manure crop should be preferably a selected legume. Both the roots and the decaying plant residues tend to improve the structure of a fine-textured soil. Q.-Do plants have different requirements for the different plant nutrients? Yes, they do. High nitrogen plants, such as corn, require several applications of available nitrogen to mature properly. Tuberous and root crops require a higher relative balance of potassium to mature. Plants that do not have adequate amounts of phosphorus do not set a normal amount of blooms and fruit. For practical purposes, it is not possible to list the needs for every plant known. Instead, these plants are grouped according to their fertilizer needs and treated accordingly. Q.-How would I proceed to make a selected virgin soil into good garden soil? When converting virgin soils into garden soils, the following definite steps may be taken: 1. The site should afford ample light for favorable plant growth. 2. Plan for adequate moisture control for the garden. 3. Test for soil reaction and apply lime as needed. 4. Keep the soil in a well-aerated condition by proper plowing and cultivation. turned under and used as a green manure crop to maintain the organic matter content. Q.-For better growth, should I keep the soil around plants stirred? When a mulch is not used around plants, the surface soil tends to seal over after a heavy rain, preventing good soil aeration. Stirring the soil around the plant not only gets rid of weed com- petition but also allows air to penetrate down to the feeder roots. Q.-Can heavy soils be made more workable? The most practical way to make Florida garden soils more work- able is to turn under a heavy green manure crop well ahead of planting. The green manure crop should be preferably a selected legume. Both the roots and the decaying plant residues tend to improve the structure of a fine-textured soil. Q.-Do plants have different requirements for the different plant nutrients? Yes, they do. High nitrogen plants, such as corn, require several applications of available nitrogen to mature properly. Tuberous and root crops require a higher relative balance of potassium to mature. Plants that do not have adequate amounts of phosphorus do not set a normal amount of blooms and fruit. For practical purposes, it is not possible to list the needs for every plant known. Instead, these plants are grouped according to their fertilizer needs and treated accordingly. Q.-How would I proceed to make a selected virgin soil into good garden soil? When converting virgin soils into garden soils, the following definite steps may be taken: 1. The site should afford ample light for favorable plant growth. 2. Plan for adequate moisture control for the garden. 3. Test for soil reaction and apply lime as needed. 4. Keep the soil in a well-aerated condition by proper plowing and cultivation.  30 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 5. Stick to a recommended program of fertilization and top- dressing. 6. Maintain a recommended program of pest control. 7. Keep down competing weeds. 8. Maintain the organic matter by growing a selected cover crop during off seasons. Q.-What kind of soil do I need for growing azaleas? Any well-drained acid soil with a fair amount of organic matter will grow good azaleas. Because of the shallow root system, it is important to keep a heavy mulch of leaves around the plants at all times. Try to avoid sweet soils by not planting azaleas with plants that require sweet soil. Azaleas do best in soils with a pH of 5 or less. Q.-Do some fertilizers tend to change the pH of the soil? If so, can I use them to help adjust the soil pH? Some fertilizers do help change the soil reaction. By regular application of certain fertilizers, it is possible to alter and main- tain some change in soil pH. For example, top-dressings of am- monium sulfate will tend to make the soil more acid. Yellow sulfur mixed with fertilizers will definitely alter the soil pH to a more acid value. Q.-What are some advantages and disadvantages of foliar feeding? The advantages of foliar feeding with the major plant food ele- ments are doubtful. However, the advantages of foliar feeding with minor elements are well known. Foliar feeding has the advantages of quickly correcting a minor-element deficiency in a plant with a minimum amount of effort and cost. On the other hand, the corrected deficiency is not permanent and must be repeated unless the conditions are corrected in the soil. Q.-I am told to use more fertilizer in smaller amounts and more frequently on sandy soils. Why is this necessary? 30 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 5. Stick to a recommended program of fertilization and top- dressing. 6. Maintain a recommended program of pest control. 7. Keep down competing weeds. 8. Maintain the organic matter by growing a selected cover crop during off seasons. Q.-What kind of soil do I need for growing azaleas? Any well-drained acid soil with a fair amount of organic matter will grow good azaleas. Because of the shallow root system, it is important to keep a heavy mulch of leaves around the plants at all times. Try to avoid sweet soils by not planting azaleas with plants that require sweet soil. Azaleas do best in soils with a pH of 5 or less. Q.-Do some fertilizers tend to change the pH of the soil? If so, can I use them to help adjust the soil pH? Some fertilizers do help change the soil reaction. By regular application of certain fertilizers, it is possible to alter and main- tain some change in soil pH. For example, top-dressings of am- monium sulfate will tend to make the soil more acid. Yellow sulfur mixed with fertilizers will definitely alter the soil pH to a more acid value. Q.-What are some advantages and disadvantages of foliar feeding? The advantages of foliar feeding with the major plant food ele- ments are doubtful. However, the advantages of foliar feeding with minor elements are well known. Foliar feeding has the advantages of quickly correcting a minor-element deficiency in a plant with a minimum amount of effort and cost. On the other hand, the corrected deficiency is not permanent and must be repeated unless the conditions are corrected in the soil. Q.-I am told to use more fertilizer in smaller amounts and more frequently on sandy soils. Why is this necessary? 30 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs 5. Stick to a recommended program of fertilization and top- dressing. 6. Maintain a recommended program of pest control. 7. Keep down competing weeds. 8. Maintain the organic matter by growing a selected cover crop during off seasons. Q.-What kind of soil do I need for growing azaleas? Any well-drained acid soil with a fair amount of organic matter will grow good azaleas. Because of the shallow root system, it is important to keep a heavy mulch of leaves around the plants at all times. Try to avoid sweet soils by not planting azaleas with plants that require sweet soil. Azaleas do best in soils with a pH of 5 or less. Q.-Do some fertilizers tend to change the pH of the soil? If so, can I use them to help adjust the soil pH? Some fertilizers do help change the soil reaction. By regular application of certain fertilizers, it is possible to alter and main- tain some change in soil pH. For example, top-dressings of am- monium sulfate will tend to make the soil more acid. Yellow sulfur mixed with fertilizers will definitely alter the soil pH to a more acid value. Q.-What are some advantages and disadvantages of foliar feeding? The advantages of foliar feeding with the major plant food ele- ments are doubtful. However, the advantages of foliar feeding with minor elements are well known. Foliar feeding has the advantages of quickly correcting a minor-element deficiency in a plant with a minimum amount of effort and cost. On the other hand, the corrected deficiency is not permanent and must be repeated unless the conditions are corrected in the soil. Q.-I am told to use more fertilizer in smaller amounts and more frequently on sandy soils. Why is this necessary?  FERTILITY 31 FERTILITY 31 FERTILITY 31 To prevent losses by leaching. In humid regions, fertilizers can be readily leached from coarse sandy soils. Plants can use only small amounts of fertilizer at a time. An excess can be harmful to the plant and is also subject to leaching. Q.-Should I use all the fertilizer I plan to at planting time? This depends on the climate and the soil. For northern climates with less rainfall and heavy soils, this practice is recommended. For Florida conditions of heavy rains and sandy soils, it is unwise to put the basic fertilizer recommendation down at planting time. To assure a constant flow of nutrient elements for plant growth, the initial application of fertilizer is generally split into two or three parts. Q.-Where can I obtain good information on growing vegetables in Florida? There are no better sources of information on vegetable growing in Florida than the Florida Vegetable Production Guides. Com- plete within themselves, these circulars cover most of the im- portant vegetables grown in this state. They are available, free of charge, from the Agricultural Extension Service, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida. Q.-The peanuts growing in my garden are all pops. What is wrong? Peanuts, like other legumes, have a higher demand for available sulfur and calcium than many other kinds of plants. If suffici- ent amounts of available sulfur and calcium are not present when peanuts begin to peg down, pops will result. They can be pre- vented by applying from 1 to 2 lbs. of gypsum (calcium sulfate) per 100 sq. ft. of garden area when the peanuts begin to peg down. Q.-What is meant by washing in a fertilizer? This term is used to describe a process for preventing tip burn and root damage when raw fertilizer is applied directly on grow- ing plants. For example, after spreading fertilizer on a green To prevent losses by leaching. In humid regions, fertilizers can be readily leached from coarse sandy soils. Plants can use only small amounts of fertilizer at a time. An excess can be harmful to the plant and is also subject to leaching. Q.-Should I use all the fertilizer I plan to at planting time? This depends on the climate and the soil. For northern climates with less rainfall and heavy soils, this practice is recommended. For Florida conditions of heavy rains and sandy soils, it is unwise to put the basic fertilizer recommendation down at planting time. To assure a constant flow of nutrient elements for plant growth, the initial application of fertilizer is generally split into two or three parts. Q.-Where can I obtain good information on growing vegetables in Florida? There are no better sources of information on vegetable growing in Florida than the Florida Vegetable Production Guides. Com- plete within themselves, these circulars cover most of the im- portant vegetables grown in this state. They are available, free of charge, from the Agricultural Extension Service, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida. Q.-The peanuts growing in my garden are all pops. What is wrong? Peanuts, like other legumes, have a higher demand for available sulfur and calcium than many other kinds of plants. If suffici- ent amounts of available sulfur and calcium are not present when peanuts begin to peg down, pops will result. They can be pre- vented by applying from 1 to 2 lbs. of gypsum (calcium sulfate) per 100 sq. ft. of garden area when the peanuts begin to peg down. Q.-What is meant by washing in a fertilizer? This term is used to describe a process for preventing tip burn and root damage when raw fertilizer is applied directly on grow- ing plants. For example, after spreading fertilizer on a green To prevent losses by leaching. In humid regions, fertilizers can be readily leached from coarse sandy soils. Plants can use only small amounts of fertilizer at a time. An excess can be harmful to the plant and is also subject to leaching. Q.-Should I use all the fertilizer I plan to at planting time? This depends on the climate and the soil. For northern climates with less rainfall and heavy soils, this practice is recommended. For Florida conditions of heavy rains and sandy soils, it is unwise to put the basic fertilizer recommendation down at planting time. To assure a constant flow of nutrient elements for plant growth, the initial application of fertilizer is generally split into two or three parts. Q.-Where can I obtain good information on growing vegetables in Florida? There are no better sources of information on vegetable growing in Florida than the Florida Vegetable Production Guides. Com- plete within themselves, these circulars cover most of the im- portant vegetables grown in this state. They are available, free of charge, from the Agricultural Extension Service, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida. Q.-The peanuts growing in my garden are all pops. What is wrong? Peanuts, like other legumes, have a higher demand for available sulfur and calcium than many other kinds of plants. If suffici- ent amounts of available sulfur and calcium are not present when peanuts begin to peg down, pops will result. They can be pre- vented by applying from 1 to 2 lbs. of gypsum (calcium sulfate) per 100 sq. ft. of garden area when the peanuts begin to peg down. Q.-What is meant by washing in a fertilizer? This term is used to describe a process for preventing tip burn and root damage when raw fertilizer is applied directly on grow- ing plants. For example, after spreading fertilizer on a green  32 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 32 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 32 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS lawn, the fertilizer should be washed into the soil. In this way, it is diluted and becomes available immediately to the growing roots. Q.-Which does a plant utilize the best: a spray of minor plant food elements or a spray of major plant food elements? Plants respond readily to a spray of minor elements and make little response to a spray of major elements. The reason is that plants require only minute amounts of minor elements which they absorb through the pores of the leaves and stems. Q.-What is the relation between a green manure cover crop and the amount of fertilizer to use? This depends on the kind of green manure crop, prior soil treat- ment, and how much of the cover crop is turned under. When turned under, all green manure crops add some nitrogen, phos- phorus, and potassium to the soil. If they were well fertilized, they would add a great deal more. If they were a selected legume and fertilized accordingly, they would save the cost of nitrogen fertilizer and add some phosphorus and potassium. In any case, the amount of additional mixed fertilizer applied should be esti- mated accordingly. Q.-Is superphosphate good for trees? Superphosphate is a carrier of phosphorus and calcium which are both essential plant food elements. Trees, like other plants, have need for all the essential elements in certain quantities. Trees growing in acid or sweet soils would probably respond to applications of superphosphate. Under most conditions, trees make greater response to applications of nitrogen and potassium. Q.-Are organic forms of nitrogen important in Florida sandy soils? Organic forms of nitrogen have their place in the soil manage- ment program for Florida sandy soils. This, of course, depends on the degree of organic matter content of the soil in question. Some sandy soils of Florida are quite high in organic matter and lawn, the fertilizer should be washed into the soil. In this way, it is diluted and becomes available immediately to the growing roots. Q.-Which does a plant utilize the best: a spray of minor plant food elements or a spray of major plant food elements? Plants respond readily to a spray of minor elements and make little response to a spray of major elements. The reason is that plants require only minute amounts of minor elements which they absorb through the pores of the leaves and stems. Q.-What is the relation between a green manure cover crop and the amount of fertilizer to use? This depends on the kind of green manure crop, prior soil treat- ment, and how much of the cover crop is turned under. When turned under, all green manure crops add some nitrogen, phos- phorus, and potassium to the soil. If they were well fertilized, they would add a great deal more. If they were a selected legume and fertilized accordingly, they would save the cost of nitrogen fertilizer and add some phosphorus and potassium. In any case, the amount of additional mixed fertilizer applied should be esti- mated accordingly. Q.-Is superphosphate good for trees? Superphosphate is a carrier of phosphorus and calcium which are both essential plant food elements. Trees, like other plants, have need for all the essential elements in certain quantities. Trees growing in acid or sweet soils would probably respond to applications of superphosphate. Under most conditions, trees make greater response to applications of nitrogen and potassium. Q.-Are organic forms of nitrogen important in Florida sandy soils? Organic forms of nitrogen have their place in the soil manage- ment program for Florida sandy soils. This, of course, depends on the degree of organic matter content of the soil in question. Some sandy soils of Florida are quite high in organic matter and lawn, the fertilizer should be washed into the soil. In this way, it is diluted and becomes available immediately to the growing roots. Q.-Which does a plant utilize the best: a spray of minor plant food elements or a spray of major plant food elements? Plants respond readily to a spray of minor elements and make little response to a spray of major elements. The reason is that plants require only minute amounts of minor elements which they absorb through the pores of the leaves and stems. Q.--What is the relation between a green manure cover crop and the amount of fertilizer to use? This depends on the kind of green manure crop, prior soil treat- ment, and how much of the cover crop is turned under. When turned under, all green manure crops add some nitrogen, phos- phorus, and potassium to the soil. If they were well fertilized, they would add a great deal more. If they were a selected legume and fertilized accordingly, they would save the cost of nitrogen fertilizer and add some phosphorus and potassium. In any case, the amount of additional mixed fertilizer applied should be esti- mated accordingly. Q.-Is superphosphate good for trees? Superphosphate is a carrier of phosphorus and calcium which are both essential plant food elements. Trees, like other plants, have need for all the essential elements in certain quantities. Trees growing in acid or sweet soils would probably respond to applications of superphosphate. Under most conditions, trees make greater response to applications of nitrogen and potassium. Q.-Are organic forms of nitrogen important in Florida sandy soils? Organic forms of nitrogen have their place in the soil manage- ment program for Florida sandy soils. This, of course, depends on the degree of organic matter content of the soil in question. Some sandy soils of Florida are quite high in organic matter and  FERTILITY 33 FERTILITY 33 FERTILITY 33 low in clay content. In this case, the organic forms of nitrogen may not be as useful as inorganic forms. For sandy soils that are low in organic matter, the addition of organic forms to the mixed fertilizer may be quite beneficial, especially for specific plants. Q.-After I apply nitrate of soda top-dressing, how can I prevent my lawn from turning brown? No burning of the grass blades will result if the recommended amount of nitrate of soda top-dressing is washed immediately into the soil with the garden hose. Tip burn is due to the high con- centration of salt directly on the grass blades. Watering dilutes the salt and washes it into the soil where it will do the most good. Q.-Does the kind of fertilizer I use cause my tomatoes to wilt? Not directly. During the warm growing season, high amounts of readily available nitrogen can easily cause a succulent soft growth, thus making the tomato plant susceptible to attack by wilt dis- eases. With a balance of higher potassium and lower nitrogen, tomato plants develop a firmer, drier growth, which is more resistant to wilt attacks. Q.-Can I put mixed fertilizer and seed in the same row? This method will quickly kill the germinating life in the seed. The high concentration of the salt solution around the seed draws out the moisture needed for germination. Q.-How does chelated iron work in the soil? Chelated iron is a special organic compound that has the ability to bond a source of available iron just strong enough to resist fixation, and weak enough to liberate a steady flow of available iron for plant growth. Other forms of iron from soluble salt sources are difficult to keep in available condition over relatively long periods of time. The free iron from these salts is quickly fixed, or made insoluble, in the soil solution. When in contact with other elements, iron has a strong tendency to form many insoluble salts, as well as being rather strongly adsorbed by the colloidal content of the soil. low in clay content. In this case, the organic forms of nitrogen may not be as useful as inorganic forms. For sandy soils that are low in organic matter, the addition of organic forms to the mixed fertilizer may be quite beneficial, especially for specific plants. Q.-After I apply nitrate of soda top-dressing, how can I prevent my lawn from turning brown? No burning of the grass blades will result if the recommended amount of nitrate of soda top-dressing is washed immediately into the soil with the garden hose. Tip burn is due to the high con- centration of salt directly on the grass blades. Watering dilutes the salt and washes it into the soil where it will do the most good. Q.-Does the kind of fertilizer I use cause my tomatoes to wilt? Not directly. During the warm growing season, high amounts of readily available nitrogen can easily cause a succulent soft growth, thus making the tomato plant susceptible to attack by wilt dis- eases. With a balance of higher potassium and lower nitrogen, tomato plants develop a firmer, drier growth, which is more resistant to wilt attacks. Q.-Can I put mixed fertilizer and seed in the same row? This method will quickly kill the germinating life in the seed. The high concentration of the salt solution around the seed draws out the moisture needed for germination. Q.-How does chelated iron work in the soil? Chelated iron is a special organic compound that has the ability to bond a source of available iron just strong enough to resist fixation, and weak enough to liberate a steady flow of available iron for plant growth. Other forms of iron from soluble salt sources are difficult to keep in available condition over relatively long periods of time. The free iron from these salts is quickly fixed, or made insoluble, in the soil solution. When in contact with other elements, iron has a strong tendency to form many insoluble salts, as well as being rather strongly adsorbed by the colloidal content of the soil. low in clay content. In this case, the organic forms of nitrogen may not be as useful as inorganic forms. For sandy soils that are low in organic matter, the addition of organic forms to the mixed fertilizer may be quite beneficial, especially for specific plants. Q.-After I apply nitrate of soda top-dressing, how can I prevent my lawn from turning brown? No burning of the grass blades will result if the recommended amount of nitrate of soda top-dressing is washed immediately into the soil with the garden hose. Tip burn is due to the high con- centration of salt directly on the grass blades. Watering dilutes the salt and washes it into the soil where it will do the most good. Q.-Does the kind of fertilizer I use cause my tomatoes to wilt? Not directly. During the warm growing season, high amounts of readily available nitrogen can easily cause a succulent soft growth, thus making the tomato plant susceptible to attack by wilt dis- eases. With a balance of higher potassium and lower nitrogen, tomato plants develop a firmer, drier growth, which is more resistant to wilt attacks. Q.-Can I put mixed fertilizer and seed in the same row? This method will quickly kill the germinating life in the seed. The high concentration of the salt solution around the seed draws out the moisture needed for germination. Q.-How does chelated iron work in the soil? Chelated iron is a special organic compound that has the ability to bond a source of available iron just strong enough to resist fixation, and weak enough to liberate a steady flow of available iron for plant growth. Other forms of iron from soluble salt sources are difficult to keep in available condition over relatively long periods of time. The free iron from these salts is quickly fixed, or made insoluble, in the soil solution. When in contact with other elements, iron has a strong tendency to form many insoluble salts, as well as being rather strongly adsorbed by the colloidal content of the soil.  ERTILIZER BAND HERE WILL PREVENT GERMINATION FERTILIZER BAND HERE................ IS A REAL PLANT STARTER FERTILIZER PLACEMENT - FERTILIZER BAND HERE L... A...... IS A REAL FERTILIZER PLACEMENT FERTILIZER PLACEMENT  FERTILITY 35 Q.-Should the shrubs around my house be fertilized more than once each year? On the majority of soil types, two times a year for most plants should be sufficient. The first application of a complete mixed fertilizer may be applied late in the winter so that the roots will begin to develop first. Later, as the weather becomes warmer and the rains begin, the tops will make rapid growth to balance the root growth. During the height of the rainy season in mid- summer, much of the readily available plant food is leached from the soil faster than the plants can absorb it. At this time, it is advisable to apply a light top-dressing of available nitrogen. Q.-What is meant by native soil fertility? This means the soil fertility level of any area before it was dis- turbed by man. The physical and chemical characteristics of native soils remain in equilibrium with their local environment. Q.-To prevent injury, how far away from the seed should fer- tilizer be banded? The fertilizer should be placed in bands from 2 to 3 in. deep and 2 to 3 in. on either side of the seed. Q.-Would a broadcast top-dressing of superphosphate be as efficient as a nitrate of soda broadcast? When placed in bands or mixed with the soil, superphosphate is much more efficient. This is true because the available phosphate in this fertilizer remains wherever it is placed in the soil. Quite the opposite is true for nitrate of soda, which is highly soluble. The available nitrogen migrates rapidly in the soil solution, thereby making nitrate more efficient for broadcasting. Q.-What plant nutrients tend to cause a plant to mature late in life? High amounts of potassium and nitrogen, in relation to other plant nutrients, tend to cause a plant to mature late in life. Q.-What special effect does sulfur have on plant growth? Without the element sulfur, plants will not grow normally. Sul- FERTILITY 35 Q.-Should the shrubs around my house be fertilized more than once each year? On the majority of soil types, two times a year for most plants should be sufficient. The first application of a complete mixed fertilizer may be applied late in the winter so that the roots will begin to develop first. Later, as the weather becomes warmer and the rains begin, the tops will make rapid growth to balance the root growth. During the height of the rainy season in mid- summer, much of the readily available plant food is leached from the soil faster than the plants can absorb it. At this time, it is advisable to apply a light top-dressing of available nitrogen. Q.-What is meant by native soil fertility? This means the soil fertility level of any area before it was dis- turbed by man. The physical and chemical characteristics of native soils remain in equilibrium with their local environment. Q.-To prevent injury, how far away from the seed should fer- tilizer be banded? The fertilizer should be placed in bands from 2 to 3 in. deep and 2 to 3 in. on either side of the seed. Q.-Would a broadcast top-dressing of superphosphate be as efficient as a nitrate of soda broadcast? When placed in bands or mixed with the soil, superphosphate is much more efficient. This is true because the available phosphate in this fertilizer remains wherever it is placed in the soil. Quite the opposite is true for nitrate of soda, which is highly soluble. The available nitrogen migrates rapidly in the soil solution, thereby making nitrate more efficient for broadcasting. Q.-What plant nutrients tend to cause a plant to mature late in life? High amounts of potassium and nitrogen, in relation to other plant nutrients, tend to cause a plant to mature late in life. Q.-What special effect does sulfur have on plant growth? Without the element sulfur, plants will not grow normally. Sul- FERTILITY 35 Q.-Should the shrubs around my house be fertilized more than once each year? On the majority of soil types, two times a year for most plants should be sufficient. The first application of a complete mixed fertilizer may be applied late in the winter so that the roots will begin to develop first. Later, as the weather becomes warmer and the rains begin, the tops will make rapid growth to balance the root growth. During the height of the rainy season in mid- summer, much of the readily available plant food is leached from the soil faster than the plants can absorb it. At this time, it is advisable to apply a light top-dressing of available nitrogen. Q.-What is meant by native soil fertility? This means the soil fertility level of any area before it was dis- turbed by man. The physical and chemical characteristics of native soils remain in equilibrium with their local environment. Q.-To prevent injury, how far away from the seed should fer- tilizer be banded? The fertilizer should be placed in bands from 2 to 3 in. deep and 2 to 3 in. on either side of the seed. Q.-Would a broadcast top-dressing of superphosphate be as efficient as a nitrate of soda broadcast? When placed in bands or mixed with the soil, superphosphate is much more efficient. This is true because the available phosphate in this fertilizer remains wherever it is placed in the soil. Quite the opposite is true for nitrate of soda, which is highly soluble. The available nitrogen migrates rapidly in the soil solution, thereby making nitrate more efficient for broadcasting. Q.-What plant nutrients tend to cause a plant to mature late in life? High amounts of potassium and nitrogen, in relation to other plant nutrients, tend to cause a plant to mature late in life. Q.-What special effect does sulfur have on plant growth? Without the element sulfur, plants will not grow normally. Sul-  36 YoUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs 36 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 36 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS fur is a part of the plant protein which is essential for cell devel- opment. Sulfur is also found in several plant oils. Chlorosis, or yellowing of the leaves, takes place when sulfur is deficient in the plant. Q.-What is the best way for preventing loss by leaching of the fertilizer applied to soil? Losses of fertilizer by leaching may be greatly reduced by apply- ing split applications of the regular recommendation. For ex- ample, a recommendation calling for 400 lbs. of fertilizer per acre on a soil that is excessively drained may be split into two parts. Depending on local conditions, the first part should be applied as recommended and the last half applied sometime later. On extreme droughty soils, it may be an advantage to divide the fertilizer recommendation into three parts. Q.-What special effect does phosphorus have on plant growth? Phosphorus is part of the tissue which has to do with the repro- duction of the cell. Phosphorus promotes healthy root growth, seed formation, and plant oil formation. During the growing period of the plant, good flowering and fruiting depend on having a good supply of available phosphorus in the soil. Q.-How would you maintain a good soil for gardening? When maintaining a garden soil, the following factors should be considered: 1. Organic matter: Keep the organic matter content of the soil as high as possible by turning under sufficient plant residues and cover crops. 2. Soil fertility: Supply the soil with enough of the right kind of fertilizers. Supply lime when needed. 3. Sdil diseases: Rotate the garden plot if possible to help keep down soil-borne diseases. 4. Soil moisture: Supply adequate moisture when needed. Q.-What special effect does calcium have on plant growth? Within the plant, calcium is found as both organic and inorganic fur is a part of the plant protein which is essential for cell devel- opment. Sulfur is also found in several plant oils. Chlorosis, or yellowing of the leaves, takes place when sulfur is deficient in the plant. Q.-What is the best way for preventing loss by leaching of the fertilizer applied to soil? Losses of fertilizer by leaching may be greatly reduced by apply- ing split applications of the regular recommendation. For ex- ample, a recommendation calling for 400 lbs. of fertilizer per acre on a soil that is excessively drained may be split into two parts., Depending on local conditions, the first part should be applied as recommended and the last half applied sometime later. On extreme droughty soils, it may be an advantage to divide the fertilizer recommendation into three parts. Q.-What special effect does phosphorus have on plant growth? Phosphorus is part of the tissue which has to do with the repro- duction of the cell. Phosphorus promotes healthy root growth, seed formation, and plant oil formation. During the growing period of the plant, good flowering and fruiting depend on having a good supply of available phosphorus in the soil. Q.-How would you maintain a good soil for gardening? When maintaining a garden soil, the following factors should be considered: 1. Organic matter: Keep the organic matter content of the soil as high as possible by turning under sufficient plant residues and cover crops. 2. Soil fertility: Supply the soil with enough of the right kind of fertilizers. Supply lime when needed. 3. Sdil diseases: Rotate the garden plot if possible to help keep down soil-borne diseases. 4. Soil moisture: Supply adequate moisture when needed. Q.-What special effect does calcium have on plant growth? Within the plant, calcium is found as both organic and inorganic fur is a part of the plant protein which is essential for cell devel- opment. Sulfur is also found in several plant oils. Chlorosis, or yellowing of the leaves, takes place when sulfur is deficient in the plant. Q.-What is the best way for preventing loss by leaching of the fertilizer applied to soil? Losses of fertilizer by leaching may be greatly reduced by apply- ing split applications of the regular recommendation. For ex- ample, a recommendation calling for 400 lbs. of fertilizer per acre on a soil that is excessively drained may be split into two parts. Depending on local conditions, the first part should be applied as recommended and the last half applied sometime later. On extreme droughty soils, it may be an advantage to divide the fertilizer recommendation into three parts. Q.-What special effect does phosphorus have on plant growth? Phosphorus is part of the tissue which has to do with the repro- duction of the cell. Phosphorus promotes healthy root growth, seed formation, and plant oil formation. During the growing period of the plant, good flowering and fruiting depend on having a good supply of available phosphorus in the soil. Q.-How would you maintain a good soil for gardening? When maintaining a garden soil, the following factors should be considered: 1. Organic matter: Keep the organic matter content of the soil as high as possible by turning under sufficient plant residues and cover crops. 2. Soil fertility: Supply the soil with enough of the right kind of fertilizers. Supply lime when needed. 3. Sdil diseases: Rotate the garden plot if possible to help keep down soil-borne diseases. 4. Soil moisture: Supply adequate moisture when needed. Q.-What special effect does calcium have on plant growth? Within the plant, calcium is found as both organic and inorganic  FERTILITY 37 salts. Calcium is active in connection with the reproduction of new cells as shown by the death of the terminal bud and the twisting of new growth when it is deficient. Ample amounts of calcium in the soil promote healthy green growth and, particu- larly, healthy white root development. Plants with the proper amounts of this element show a definite resistance to disease. Q.-What special effect does nitrogen have on plant growth? For obvious reasons, this is the element most often deficient in both plants and soils. Nitrogen, important in the formation of plant proteins, also promotes a vigorous green growth in plants. Conversely, too much nitrogen can promote growth that is soft and subject to cold and disease damage. Too little nitrogen causes yellowing of the leaves of the plant. Q.-Can some plants get too much ammonium nitrogen and not enough nitrate nitrogen? This is true for certain plants. As an illustration, such plants as rice mature with only ammonium nitrogen as a nitrogen source. The potato is another example. Potatoes do well with rather high amounts of ammonium nitrogen in the soil. How- ever, higher levels will cause leaf curl and yield drops. Most other plants will tolerate ammonium nitrogen up to a certain level. Above this level, it becomes toxic. Q.-Are sandy soils improved by the addition of organic ma- terial? It is most important to maintain as much organic matter content in sandy soils as possible. Any kind of plant residues should be turned under well ahead of planting. Green manure crops, such as hairy indigo or lupines, may be grown between the growing seasons and turned under a month or so before planting. There is an old saying that "organic matter is the fat of the land," which is certainly true for sandy garden soils. Q.-What special effect does magnesium have on plant growth? Magnesium is the only mineral element that is actually part of FERTILITY 37 salts. Calcium is active in connection with the reproduction of new cells as shown by the death of the terminal bud and the twisting of new growth when it is deficient. Ample amounts of calcium in the soil promote healthy green growth and, particu- larly, healthy white root development. Plants with the proper amounts of this element show a definite resistance to disease. Q.-What special effect does nitrogen have on plant growth? For obvious reasons, this is the element most often deficient in both plants and soils. Nitrogen, important in the formation of plant proteins, also promotes a vigorous green growth in plants. Conversely, too much nitrogen can promote growth that is soft and subject to cold and disease damage. Too little nitrogen causes yellowing of the leaves of the plant. Q.-Can some plants get too much ammonium nitrogen and not enough nitrate nitrogen? This is true for certain plants. As an illustration, such plants as rice mature with only ammonium nitrogen as a nitrogen source. The potato is another example. Potatoes do well with rather high amounts of ammonium nitrogen in the soil. How- ever, higher levels will cause leaf curl and yield drops. Most other plants will tolerate ammonium nitrogen up to a certain level. Above this level, it becomes toxic. Q.-Are sandy soils improved by the addition of organic ma- terial? It is most important to maintain as much organic matter content in sandy soils as possible. Any kind of plant residues should be turned under well ahead of planting. Green manure crops, such as hairy indigo or lupines, may be grown between the growing seasons and turned under a month or so before planting. There is an old saying that "organic matter is the fat of the land," which is certainly true for sandy garden soils. Q.-What special effect does magnesium have on plant growth? Magnesium is the only mineral element that is actually part of FERTILITY 37 salts. Calcium is active in connection with the reproduction of new cells as shown by the death of the terminal bud and the twisting of new growth when it is deficient. Ample amounts of calcium in the soil promote healthy green growth and, particu- larly, healthy white root development. Plants with the proper amounts of this element show a definite resistance to disease. Q.-What special effect does nitrogen have on plant growth? For obvious reasons, this is the element most often deficient in both plants and soils. Nitrogen, important in the formation of plant proteins, also promotes a vigorous green growth in plants. Conversely, too much nitrogen can promote growth that is soft and subject to cold and disease damage. Too little nitrogen causes yellowing of the leaves of the plant. Q.-Can some plants get too much ammonium nitrogen and not enough nitrate nitrogen? This is true for certain plants. As an illustration, such plants as rice mature with only ammonium nitrogen as a nitrogen source. The potato is another example. Potatoes do well with rather high amounts of ammonium nitrogen in the soil. How- ever, higher levels will cause leaf curl and yield drops. Most other plants will tolerate ammonium nitrogen up to a certain level. Above this level, it becomes toxic. Q.-Are sandy soils improved by the addition of organic ma- terial? It is most important to maintain as much organic matter content in sandy soils as possible. Any kind of plant residues should be turned under well ahead of planting. Green manure crops, such as hairy indigo or lupines, may be grown between the growing seasons and turned under a month or so before planting. There is an old saying that "organic matter is the fat of the land," which is certainly true for sandy garden soils. Q.-What special effect does magnesium have on plant growth? Magnesium is the only mineral element that is actually part of  APPLY 2 POUNDS OF AN 8-8-8 MIXED FERTILIZER FOR EACH INCH IN DIAMETER OF THE TREE TRUNK AT WAIST HEIGHT. DISTRIBUTE THIS AMOUNT IN THE HOLES ILLUSTRATED FERTILIZING A SHADE TREE APPLY 2 POUNDS OF AN 8--8 MIXED FERTILIZER FOR EACH INCH IN DIAMETER OF THE TREE TRUNK AT WAIST HEIGHT. DISTRIBUTE THIS AMOUNT IN THE HOLES ILLUSTRATED. FERTILIZING A SHADE TREE APPLY 2 POUNDS OF AN S--8 MIXED FERTILIZER FOR EACH INCH IN DIAMETER OF THE TREE TRUNK AT WAIST HEIGHT. DISTRIBUTE THIS AMOUNT IN THE HOLES ILLUSTRATED. FERTILIZING A SHADE TREE  FERTILITY 39 the chlorophyll molecule in plants. Without magnesium, the sugar-making chlorophyll cannot function; magnesium deficiency will soon appear in the leaves. Thus, magnesium promotes healthy green growth in plants. Q.-Does the ammonium nitrogen of the soil have a different effect on plants than nitrate nitrogen? The amount of ammonium nitrogen that plants can use is largely dependent on the kind of plant. In any case, the ammonia ion is used directly by the plants in manufacturing amino acids. Thus, it is not stored in any quantity in the conducting tissues as nitrate nitrogen. Excessive amounts of ammonium nitrogen tend to cause most plants to put on a rapid soft green growth. Q.-What is a satisfactory method for fertilizing shade trees? When shade trees are fertilized, it must be done in such a way to eliminate competition with lawn grass or other plants. The fertilizer must be placed deep enough for tree roots to make use of it. First punch holes around the tree at about the leaf-drip, these holes being about 24 in. apart and approximately 18 in. deep. Distribute 2 lbs. of an 8-8-8 mixed fertilizer for each inch in diameter of tree trunk at waist height in all of the holes. For example: A 10-in. tree would require 20 lbs. of mixed fertilizer to distribute among the punched holes. Q.-I have been told to use a regular vegetable fertilizer for all plant needs. Is this good practice? Such advice will never be heeded by the intelligent or trained gardener. Too many growth failures of plants are due to the use of the wrong kind of fertilizer. Besides a dozen or more definite ratios of blending nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium, there are also acid-forming fertilizers, organic fertilizers, soluble fertilizers, and many other combinations. Your State Extension Service guides will recommend the proper fertilizer for garden plants. It is good practice to follow this information carefully. Q.-What per cent organic material should I have in my garden fertilizer? FERTILITY 39 FERTILITY 39 the chlorophyll molecule in plants. Without magnesium, the sugar-making chlorophyll cannot function; magnesium deficiency will soon appear in the leaves. Thus, magnesium promotes healthy green growth in plants. Q.-Does the ammonium nitrogen of the soil have a different effect on plants than nitrate nitrogen? The amount of ammonium nitrogen that plants can use is largely dependent on the kind of plant. In any case, the ammonia ion is used directly by the plants in manufacturing amino acids. Thus, it is not stored in any quantity in the conducting tissues as nitrate nitrogen. Excessive amounts of ammonium nitrogen tend to cause most plants to put on a rapid soft green growth. Q.-What is a satisfactory method for fertilizing shade trees? When shade trees are fertilized, it must be done in such a way to eliminate competition with lawn grass or other plants. The fertilizer must be placed deep enough for tree roots to make use of it. First punch holes around the tree at about the leaf-drip, these holes being about 24 in. apart and approximately 18 in. deep. Distribute 2 lbs. of an 8-8-8 mixed fertilizer for each inch in diameter of tree trunk at waist height in all of the holes. For example: A 10-in. tree would require 20 lbs. of mixed fertilizer to distribute among the punched holes. Q.-I have been told to use a regular vegetable fertilizer for all plant needs. Is this good practice? Such advice will never be heeded by the intelligent or trained gardener. Too many growth failures of plants are due to the use of the wrong kind of fertilizer. Besides a dozen or more definite ratios of blending nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium, there are also acid-forming fertilizers, organic fertilizers, soluble fertilizers, and many other combinations. Your State Extension Service guides will recommend the proper fertilizer for garden plants. It is good practice to follow this information carefully. Q.-What per cent organic material should I have in my garden fertilizer? the chlorophyll molecule in plants. Without magnesium, the sugar-making chlorophyll cannot function; magnesium deficiency will soon appear in the leaves. Thus, magnesium promotes healthy green growth in plants. Q.-Does the ammonium nitrogen of the soil have a different effect on plants than nitrate nitrogen? The amount of ammonium nitrogen that plants can use is largely dependent on the kind of plant. In any case, the ammonia ion is used directly by the plants in manufacturing amino acids. Thus, it is not stored in any quantity in the conducting tissues as nitrate nitrogen. Excessive amounts of ammonium nitrogen tend to cause most plants to put on a rapid soft green growth. Q.-What is a satisfactory method for fertilizing shade trees? When shade trees are fertilized, it must be done in such a way to eliminate competition with lawn grass or other plants. The fertilizer must be placed deep enough for tree roots to make use of it. First punch holes around the tree at about the leaf-drip, these holes being about 24 in. apart and approximately 18 in. deep. Distribute 2 lbs. of an 8-8-8 mixed fertilizer for each inch in diameter of tree trunk at waist height in all of the holes. For example: A 10-in. tree would require 20 lbs. of mixed fertilizer to distribute among the punched holes. Q.-I have been told to use a regular vegetable fertilizer for all plant needs. Is this good practice? Such advice will never be heeded by the intelligent or trained gardener. Too many growth failures of plants are due to the use of the wrong kind of fertilizer. Besides a dozen or more defhite ratios of blending nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium, there are also acid-forming fertilizers, organic fertilizers, soluble fertilizers, and many other combinations. Your State Extension Service guides will recommend the proper fertilizer for garden plants. It is good practice to follow this information carefully. Q.-What per cent organic material should I have in my garden fertilizer?  40 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 40 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 40 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Organic material in mixed fertilizers is beneficial when used on sandy soils low in humus. On soils that have a medium to high amount of humus content as well as good cover growth, it would be unrealistic and expensive to purchase mixed fertilizers high in organic material. Q.-What forms of nitrogen do plants get from the soil solution? From the soil solution, plants absorb both ammonium nitrogen and nitrate nitrogen. In sweet soils, ammonium nitrogen is quickly oxidized by soil bacteria into nitrate nitrogen during the growing season. Q.-khat steps should I take when preparing my soil for a lawn? Remove all foreign materials, such as bricks, mortar, scraps, and other debris. Disk the soil and level the surface to prevent any depressions. For sandy soils with low fertility, spread 1 in. of peat or muck over the area. If this material is very acid, spread 3 to 5 lbs. of finely ground dolomitic limestone per 100 sq. ft. At the last leveling operation, work 2 to 5 lbs. of a complete 8-8-8 fertilizer into the topsoil per 100 sq. ft. Q.-What are some good soil management practices for day- lilies? Around the clumps of daylilies work into the soil a complete fertilizer, such as 6-6-6 or 8-8-8. Do this in early January. Then fertilize again after blooming to assure profuse flowering the next year. Q.-What is the best way to manage flower beds in landscape planting? The soil should be hoed, smoothed evenly, and covered with a heavy mulch of leaves to keep down competing weeds. Constant edging is necessary to prevent the lawn grass from creeping into the plant beds. Q.-Is it true that azaleas grow best under a heavy mulch of leaves? Organic material in mixed fertilizers is beneficial when used on sandy soils low in humus. On soils that have a medium to high amount of humus content as well as good cover growth, it would be unrealistic and expensive to purchase mixed fertilizers high in organic material. Q.-What forms of nitrogen do plants get from the soil solution? From the soil solution, plants absorb both ammonium nitrogen and nitrate nitrogen. In sweet soils, ammonium nitrogen is quickly oxidized by soil bacteria into nitrate nitrogen during the growing season. Q.-What steps should I take when preparing my soil for a lawn? Remove all foreign materials, such as bricks, mortar, scraps, and other debris. Disk the soil and level the surface to prevent any depressions. For sandy soils with low fertility, spread 1 in. of peat or muck over the area. If this material is very acid, spread 3 to 5 lbs. of finely ground dolomitic limestone per 100 sq. ft. At the last leveling operation, work 2 to 5 lbs. of a complete 8-8-8 fertilizer into the topsoil per 100 sq. ft. Q.-What are some good soil management practices for day- lilies? Around the clumps of daylilies work into the soil a complete fertilizer, such as 6-6-6 or 8-8-8. Do this in early January. Then fertilize again after blooming to assure profuse flowering the next year. Q.-What is the best way to manage flower beds in landscape planting? The soil should be hoed, smoothed evenly, and covered with a heavy mulch of leaves to keep down competing weeds. Constant edging is necessary to prevent the lawn grass from creeping into the plant beds. Q.-Is it true that azaleas grow best under a heavy mulch of leaves? Organic material in mixed fertilizers is beneficial when used on sandy soils low in humus. On soils that have a medium to high amount of humus content as well as good cover growth, it would be unrealistic and expensive to purchase mixed fertilizers high in organic material. Q.-What forms of nitrogen do plants get from the soil solution? From the soil solution, plants absorb both ammonium nitrogen and nitrate nitrogen. In sweet soils, ammonium nitrogen is quickly oxidized by soil bacteria into nitrate nitrogen during the growing season. Q.-Wkat steps should I take when preparing my soil for a lawn? Remove all foreign materials, such as bricks, mortar, scraps, and other debris. Disk the soil and level the surface to prevent any depressions. For sandy soils with low fertility, spread I in. of peat or muck over the area. If this material is very acid, spread 3 to 5 lbs. of finely ground dolomitic limestone per 100 sq. ft. At the last leveling operation, work 2 to 5 lbs. of a complete 8-8-8 fertilizer into the topsoil per 100 sq. ft. Q.-What are some good soil management practices for day- lilies? Around the clumps of daylilies work into the soil a complete fertilizer, such as 6-6-6 or 8-8-8. Do this in early January. Then fertilize again after blooming to assure profuse flowering the next year. Q.-What is the best way to manage flower beds in landscape planting? The soil should be hoed, smoothed evenly, and covered with a heavy mulch of leaves to keep down competing weeds. Constant edging is necessary to prevent the lawn grass from creeping into the plant beds. Q.-Is it true that azaleas grow best under a heavy mulch of leaves?  FERTILITY 41 FERTILITY 41 Azaleas require a heavy mulch for good growth. The root system of azaleas is shallow; when not covered with a heavy mulch, roots soon dry out, causing the azaleas to wilt. A good mulch around azalea plants also contributes toward more uniform soil temperature, nutrient supply, and superior maintenance of soil reaction (pH). Q.--I don't seem to have a green thumb. What are a few steps that I can take to improve plant growth? Consider the principal factors for plant growth and provide these needs as much as possible. Plants must have proper amounts of air, light, moisture, nutrients, and protection from pests. These requirements call for a soil with good texture, structure, organic matter content, and adequate plant nutrients to support thrifty plant growth. Optimum soil moisture conditions must be main- tained from irrigation, natural rainfall, or both. The plant should be located to fit its light and temperature requirements. Com- peting weed growth should be removed. Q.-When is the best time to cultivate my garden? Your garden should be cultivated before the lateral feeding roots have extended too far into the row. Early cultivation stirs the soil and allows the air to reach the fast-growing roots. If the garden is cultivated after the plants have grown too large, there is a possibility of cutting these roots and damaging the growth of the plant. Q.-I would like to have some easy-to-read and simple informa- tion on growing Florida vegetables. Is such information available and where can I get it? The Florida Agricultural Extension Service has some excellent pamphlets called production guides. You can obtain them at any County Agricultural Agent's Office. Q.-I have been advised to spade my garden shallow to prevent mixing the topsoil with the subsoil. Is this the best practice? If your garden is made up of black sands, the shallow spading Azaleas require a heavy mulch for good growth. The root system of azaleas is shallow; when not covered with a heavy mulch, roots soon dry out, causing the azaleas to wilt. A good mulch around azalea plants also contributes toward more uniform soil temperature, nutrient supply, and superior maintenance of soil reaction (pH). Q.-I don't seem to have a green thumb. What are a few steps that I can take to improve plant growth? Consider the principal factors for plant growth and provide these needs as much as possible. Plants must have proper amounts of air, light, moisture, nutrients, and protection from pests. These requirements call for a soil with good texture, structure, organic matter content, and adequate plant nutrients to support thrifty plant growth. Optimum soil moisture conditions must be main- tained from irrigation, natural rainfall, or both. The plant should be located to fit its light and temperature requirements. Com- peting weed growth should be removed. Q.-When is the best time to cultivate my garden? Your garden should be cultivated before the lateral feeding roots have extended too far into the row. Early cultivation stirs the soil and allows the air to reach the fast-growing roots. If the garden is cultivated after the plants have grown too large, there is a possibility of cutting these roots and damaging the growth of the plant. Q.-I would like to have some easy-to-read and simple informa- tion on growing Florida vegetables. Is such information available and where can I get it? The Florida Agricultural Extension Service has some excellent pamphlets called production guides. You can obtain them at any County Agricultural Agent's Office. Q.-I have been advised to spade my garden shallow to prevent mixing the topsoil with the subsoil. Is this the best practice? If your garden is made up of black sands, the shallow spading FERTILITY 41 Azaleas require a heavy mulch for good growth. The root system of azaleas is shallow; when not covered with a heavy mulch, roots soon dry out, causing the azaleas to wilt. A good mulch around azalea plants also contributes toward more uniform soil temperature, nutrient supply, and superior maintenance of soil reaction (pH). Q.-I don't seem to have a green thumb. What are a few steps that I can take to improve plant growth? Consider the principal factors for plant growth and provide these needs as much as possible. Plants must have proper amounts of air, light, moisture, nutrients, and protection from pests. These requirements call for a soil with good texture, structure, organic matter content, and adequate plant nutrients to support thrifty plant growth. Optimum soil moisture conditions must be main- tained from irrigation, natural rainfall, or both. The plant should be located to fit its light and temperature requirements. Com- peting weed growth should be removed. Q.-When is the best time to cultivate my garden? Your garden should be cultivated before the lateral feeding roots have extended too far into the row. Early cultivation stirs the soil and allows the air to reach the fast-growing roots. If the garden is cultivated after the plants have grown too large, there is a possibility of cutting these roots and damaging the growth of the plant. Q.-I would like to have some easy-to-read and simple informa- tion on growing Florida vegetables. Is such information available and where can I get it? The Florida Agricultural Extension Service has some excellent pamphlets called production guides. You can obtain them at any County Agricultural Agent's Office. Q.-I have been advised to spade my garden shallow to prevent mixing the topsoil with the subsoil. Is this the best practice? If your garden is made up of black sands, the shallow spading  42 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 42 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 42 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS seems to be the best method, since you get more use from the soil organic matter content. If your garden is low in organic matter and has a thick sandy surface over clay subsoil, then deep spading of your garden will tend to mix the clay with the sandy topsoil and improve the moisture-holding capacity of the soil. Q.-We are trying, with little success, to establish azaleas near our house. What is wrong? Nine times out of ten, the trouble is due to the accumulation of lime and mortar material left there after the home was con- struced. Have the soil tested for acidity by your County Agri- cultural Agent. If the pH of the soil is 6 or more, it should be made more acid by using a heavy acid peat mulch and a chemical supplement such as aluminum sulfate, yellow sulfur, or iron sulfate. Of the three chemicals, yellow agricultural sulfur is the safest and lasts the longest. Carefully apply according to directions. Q.-Why do plants seem to grow better if the soil is not too compact? This depends on the soil texture. It would be difficult to pack a coarse-textured soil to such a degree that air and roots could not enter freely. Fine-textured soils can be packed to the extent that plant roots have difficulty penetrating the soil as well as having sufficient air for respiration. Q.--What are several good methods for controlling weeds? Most weed eradications are based on the following principles: shading them out, starving them out, or killing them by chemical means. Weeds can be shaded out by using a suitable heavy mulch around the plants. Weeds can be starved out when it is possible to fertilize the cultivated plant and not the weeds. Modern weed-killing chemicals can be used to control weed growth if the chemical is carefully selected and the directions followed to the letter. However, the old-fashioned method of pulling weeds is still commonly used. seems to be the best method, since you get more use from the soil organic matter content. If your garden is low in organic matter and has a thick sandy surface over clay subsoil, then deep spading of your garden will tend to mix the clay with the sandy topsoil and improve the moisture-holding capacity of the soil. Q.-We are trying, with little success, to establish azaleas near our house. What is wrong? Nine times out of ten, the trouble is due to the accumulation of lime and mortar material left there after the home was con- structed. Have the soil tested for acidity by your County Agri- cultalal Agent. If the pH of the soil is 6 or more, it should be made more acid by using a heavy acid peat mulch and a chemical supplement such as aluminum sulfate, yellow sulfur, or iron sulfate. Of the three chemicals, yellow agricultural sulfur is the safest and lasts the longest. Carefully apply according to directions. Q.-Why do plants seem to grow better if the soil is not too compact? This depends on the soil texture. It would be difficult to pack a coarse-textured soil to such a degree that air and roots could not enter freely. Fine-textured soils can be packed to the extent that plant roots have difficulty penetrating the soil as well as having sufficient air for respiration. Q.-What are several good methods for controlling weeds? Most weed eradications are based on the following principles: shading them out, starving them out, or killing them by chemical means. Weeds can be shaded out by using a suitable heavy mulch around the plants. Weeds can be starved out when it is possible to fertilize the cultivated plant and not the weeds. Modern weed-killing chemicals can be used to control weed growth if the chemical is carefully selected and the directions followed to the letter. However, the old-fashioned method of pulling weeds is still commonly used. seems to be the best method, since you get more use from the soil organic matter content. If your garden is low in organic matter and has a thick sandy surface over clay subsoil, then deep spading of your garden will tend to mix the clay with the sandy topsoil and improve the moisture-holding capacity of the soil. Q.-We are trying, with little success, to establish azaleas near our house. What is wrong? Nine times out of ten, the trouble is due to the accumulation of lime and mortar material left there after the home was con- structed. Have the soil tested for acidity by your County Agri- cultudral Agent. If the pH of the soil is 6 or more, it should be made more acid by using a heavy acid peat mulch and a chemical supplement such as aluminum sulfate, yellow sulfur, or iron sulfate. Of the three chemicals, yellow agricultural sulfur is the safest and lasts the longest. Carefully apply according to directions. Q.-Why do plants seem to grow better if the soil is not too compact? This depends on the soil texture. It would be difficult to pack a coarse-textured soil to such a degree that air and roots could not enter freely. Fine-textured soils can be packed to the extent that plant roots have difficulty penetrating the soil as well as having sufficient air for respiration. Q.-What are several good methods for controlling weeds? Most weed eradications are based on the following principles: shading them out, starving them out, or killing them by chemical means. Weeds can be shaded out by using a suitable heavy mulch around the plants. Weeds can be starved out when it is possible to fertilize the cultivated plant and not the weeds. Modern weed-killing chemicals can be used to control weed growth if the chemical is carefully selected and the directions followed to the letter. However, the old-fashioned method of pulling weeds is still commonly used.  FERTILITY 43 FERTILITY 43 FERTILITY 43 Q.-My plants make good growth but produce little or no vege- tables. What is the trouble? The two principal causes of excessive vegetative growth with lack of fruiting are limited exposure to light, and too high a level of available nitrogen. The plant can be affected by either one or a combination of these two causes. Q.-Why do some plants volunteer better each year on some soils than on others? Generally speaking, the more fertile soils tend to support more plant growth, which contributes toward more soil organic matter. Plants that seed on these soils find the temperature, mAokture, and nutrient supply more nearly ideal for seed germination and consequent volunteer growth. On very sandy soils, the lack of protection of the seeds, high temperatures in the summer, and lack of moisture tend to prevent volunteer growth. Q.-When too much fertilizer is used, what are the plant symp- toms? In overfertilized plants, the first revealing symptoms are scorched tips of foliage, often termed tip burn. If the symptoms persist, the leaves will dry up and fall to the ground. Plants in this condition should be soaked with water to help leach out some of the soluble salts in the soil. Q.-If 6 oz. of chelated iron is recommended for a camellia bush, would 1 lb. be better? This is a sure way to kill the camellia bush. In small recom- mended amounts, chelated iron is efficient in liberating enough iron into the soil for plant use. When compared with most fer- tilizing compounds, the nature of chelated materials makes it long-lasting. If too great a quantity of these chelated materials is applied, the long-lasting effects will not only kill the plants, but will remain in the soil to damage future plant growth. Q.-How often should a complete fertilizer be applied to my garden? Q.-My plants make good growth but produce little or no vege- tables. What is the trouble? The two principal causes of excessive vegetative growth with lack of fruiting are limited exposure to light, and too high a level of available nitrogen. The plant can be affected by either one or a combination of these two causes. Q.-Why do some plants volunteer better each year on some soils than on others? Generally speaking, the more fertile soils tend to support more plant growth, which contributes toward more soil organic matter. Plants that seed on these soils find the temperature, msture, and nutrient supply more nearly ideal for seed germination and consequent volunteer growth. On very sandy soils, the lack of protection of the seeds, high temperatures in the summer, and lack of moisture tend to prevent volunteer growth. Q.-When too much fertilizer is used, what are the plant symp- toms? In overfertilized plants, the first revealing symptoms are scorched tips of foliage, often termed tip burn. If the symptoms persist, the leaves will dry up and fall to the ground. Plants in this condition should be soaked with water to help leach out some of the soluble salts in the soil. Q.-If 6 oz. of chelated iron is recommended for a camellia bush, would 1 lb. be better? This is a sure way to kill the camellia bush. In small recom- mended amounts, chelated iron is efficient in liberating enough iron into the soil for plant use. When compared with most fer- tilizing compounds, the nature of chelated materials makes it long-lasting. If too great a quantity of these chelated materials is applied, the long-lasting effects will not only kill the plants, but will remain in the soil to damage future plant growth. Q.-How often should a complete fertilizer be applied to my garden? Q.-My plants make good growth but produce little or no vege- tables. What is the trouble? The two principal causes of excessive vegetative growth with lack of fruiting are limited exposure to light, and too high a level of available nitrogen. The plant can be affected by either one or a combination of these two causes. Q.-Why do some plants volunteer better each year on some soils than on others? Generally speaking, the more fertile soils tend to support more plant growth, which contributes toward more soil organic matter. Plants that seed on these soils find the temperature, moiture, and nutrient supply more nearly ideal for seed germination and consequent volunteer growth. On very sandy soils, the lack of protection of the seeds, high temperatures in the summer, and lack of moisture tend to prevent volunteer growth. Q.-When too much fertilizer is used, what are the plant symp- toms? In overfertilized plants, the first revealing symptoms are scorched tips of foliage, often termed tip burn. If the symptoms persist, the leaves will dry up and fall to the ground. Plants in this condition should be soaked with water to help leach out some of the soluble salts in the soil. Q.-If 6 oz. of chelated iron is recommended for a camellia bush, would I lb. be better? This is a sure way to kill the camellia bush. In small recom- mended amounts, chelated iron is efficient in liberating enough iron into the soil for plant use. When compared with most fer- tilizing compounds, the nature of chelated materials makes it long-lasting. If too great a quantity of these chelated materials is applied, the long-lasting effects will not only kill the plants, but will remain in the soil to damage future plant growth. Q.-How often should a complete fertilizer be applied to my garden?  44 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 44 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS If your garden soil is sandy, it is wise to use a split application by applying one half at planting and the remainder about the middle of the growing season. Additional nitrogen may be supplied dur- ing the season by 2 or 3 light applications of available nitrogen in the form of nitrate of soda or sulfate of ammonia. Q.-Is it necessary to wash chemical fertilizers into the soil? Wherever there is a possibility that either the tops or roots may be injured by raw fertilizer, it is wise to wash the fertilizer into the soil. Examples are, lawn grass or azalea beds. Q.-What is a satisfactory method for placing mixed fertilizer around shrubbery? Sprinling the recommended amount around the shrub at the leaf-drip is one of the most practical methods for applying ferti- lizer. This is the outer edge of the foliage on the shrub. Q.-At what time of the year should shade trees be fertilized? Trees may be fertilized at any time of the year. However, since the utilization of available plant food nutrients in the soil is greater during the spring and summer months, it is preferable to fertilize during these seasons. This is especially true of deciduous trees which remain dormant during winter months. Q.-Why do successful vegetable gardeners apply fertilizer in bands rather than broadcasting it? There are several reasons why gardeners apply fertilizers in bands. It takes much less fertilizer for the garden, the plants make better and more uniform growth, the fertilizer will not burn the plant or prevent germination of seeds, band fertilization pro- motes root growth, and more efficient use is made of the phos- phorus content of the mixed fertilizer. Q.-Can plants absorb nutrients as fast and in the same quantity through their foliage as they do through the root system? When compared with the foliage portion of the plant, the roots of the plants have been designed by nature to absorb large quan- If your garden soil is sandy, it is wise to use a split application by applying one half at planting and the remainder about the middle of the growing season. Additional nitrogen may be supplied dur- ing the season by 2 or 3 light applications of available nitrogen in the form of nitrate of soda or sulfate of ammonia. Q.-Is it necessary to wash chemical fertilizers into the soil? Wherever there is a possibility that either the tops or roots may be injured by raw fertilizer, it is wise to wash the fertilizer into the soil. Examples are, lawn grass or azalea beds. Q.-What is a satisfactory method for placing mixed fertilizer around shrubbery? Sprinkling the recommended amount around the shrub at the leaf-drip is one of the most practical methods for applying ferti- lizer. This is the outer edge of the foliage on the shrub. Q.-At what time of the year should shade trees be fertilized? Trees may be fertilized at any time of the year. However, since the utilization of available plant food nutrients in the soil is greater during the spring and summer months, it is preferable to fertilize during these seasons. This is especially true of deciduous trees which remain dormant during winter months. Q.-Why do successful vegetable gardeners apply fertilizer in bands rather than broadcasting it? There are several reasons why gardeners apply fertilizers in bands. It takes much less fertilizer for the garden, the plants make better and more uniform growth, the fertilizer will not burn the plant or prevent germination of seeds, band fertilization pro- motes root growth, and more efficient use is made of the phos- phorus content of the mixed fertilizer. Q.-Can plants absorb nutrients as fast and in the same quantity through their foliage as they do through the root system? When compared with the foliage portion of the plant, the roots of the plants have been designed by nature to absorb large quan- 44 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS If your garden soil is sandy, it is wise to use a split application by applying one half at planting and the remainder about the middle of the growing season. Additional nitrogen may be supplied dur- ing the season by 2 or 3 light applications of available nitrogen in the form of nitrate of soda or sulfate of ammonia. Q.-Is it necessary to wash chemical fertilizers into the soil? Wherever there is a possibility that either the tops or roots may be injured by raw fertilizer, it is wise to wash the fertilizer into the soil. Examples are, lawn grass or azalea beds. Q.-What is a satisfactory method for placing mixed fertilizer around shrubbery? Sprinlding the recommended amount around the shrub at the leaf-drip is one of the most practical methods for applying ferti- lizer. This is the outer edge of the foliage on the shrub. Q.-At what time of the year should shade trees be fertilized? Trees may be fertilized at any time of the year. However, since the utilization of available plant food nutrients in the soil is greater during the spring and summer months, it is preferable to fertilize during these seasons. This is especially true of deciduous trees which remain dormant during winter months. Q.-Why do successful vegetable gardeners apply fertilizer in bands rather than broadcasting it? There are several reasons why gardeners apply fertilizers in bands. It takes much less fertilizer for the garden, the plants make better and more uniform growth, the fertilizer will not burn the plant or prevent germination of seeds, band fertilization pro- motes root growth, and more efficient use is made of the phos- phorus content of the mixed fertilizer. Q.-Can plants absorb nutrients as fast and in the same quantity through their foliage as they do through the root system? When compared with the foliage portion of the plant, the roots of the plants have been designed by nature to absorb large quan-  MAKING A SEED FURROW AND COVERING FERTILIZER IN ONE OPERATION MAKING A SEED FURROW AND COVERING FERTILIZER IN ONE OPERATION MAKING A SEED FURROW AND COVERING FERTILIZER IN ONE OPERATION  46 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs 46 YoUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 46 YoUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS tities of soil nutrients at more efficient rates. Foliage can, how- ever, absorb enough of the minor elements to correct deficiencies when they occur. The advantage of minor-element sprays for plants is in the speed that is achieved for correcting deficiencies. Since the minor elements are not translocated from one part of the plant to another, this is possible. Q.-What is a recommended amount of mixed fertilizer to apply to a garden? For most soils, 3 or 4 lbs. of mixed fertilizer are applied to 100 sq. ft. of garden surface. Refer to a garden bulletin for amounts and methods of application best suited to local conditions. Q.-What is best for gardens: farm manure or commercial fer- tilizers? Use both by balancing farm manure with a 4-12-12 commercial fertilizer. If farm manure is fresh, it should be worked into the soil well in advance of planting. Follow by applying the recom- mended amount of 4-12-12 fertilizer. The farm manure should contribute the remaining portion of nitrogen necessary for good crop growth. Q.-Is it worth while to fertilize annuals? For most sandy soils of Florida, it is well worth the effort to fertilize annuals. However, this depends on the kind of annual you wish to grow. If you wish to grow large vigorous plants, additional fertilizer is necessary on most soils. Depending on the variety of plant, some annuals will require more or less fertilizer. Q.-How does the plant make use of nitrogen applied to the soil? Nitrogen is one of the building blocks in the manufacture of proteins by plants. This fact is highly important to the plant, especially to those plants used as foods. Q.-In addition to manure and compost, why is it necessary to add a complete fertilizer to a garden in order to set more fruit? tities of soil nutrients at more efficient rates. Foliage can, how- ever, absorb enough of the minor elements to correct deficiencies when they occur. The advantage of minor-element sprays for plants is in the speed that is achieved for correcting deficiencies. Since the minor elements are not translocated from one part of the plant to another, this is possible. Q.-What is a recommended amount of mixed fertilizer to apply to a garden? For most soils, 3 or 4 lbs. of mixed fertilizer are applied to 100 sq. ft. of garden surface. Refer to a garden bulletin for amounts and methods of application best suited to local conditions. Q.-What is best for gardens: farm manure or commercial fer- tilizers? Use both by balancing farm manure with a 4-12-12 commercial fertilizer. If farm manure is fresh, it should be worked into the soil well in advance of planting. Follow by applying the recom- mended amount of 4-12-12 fertilizer. The farm manure should contribute the remaining portion of nitrogen necessary for good crop growth. Q.-Is it worth while to fertilize annuals? For most sandy soils of Florida, it is well worth the effort to fertilize annuals. However, this depends on the kind of annual you wish to grow. If you wish to grow large vigorous plants, additional fertilizer is necessary on most soils. Depending on the variety of plant, some annuals will require more or less fertilizer. Q.-How does the plant make use of nitrogen applied to the soil? Nitrogen is one of the building blocks in the manufacture of proteins by plants. This fact is highly important to the plant, especially to those plants used as foods. Q.-In addition to manure and compost, why is it necessary to add a complete fertilizer to a garden in order to set more fruit? tities of soil nutrients at more efficient rates. Foliage can, how- ever, absorb enough of the minor elements to correct deficiencies when they occur. The advantage of minor-element sprays for plants is in the speed that is achieved for correcting deficiencies. Since the minor elements are not translocated from one part of the plant to another, this is possible. Q.-What is a recommended amount of mixed fertilizer to apply to a garden? For most soils, 3 or 4 lbs. of mixed fertilizer are applied to 100 sq. ft. of garden surface. Refer to a garden bulletin for amounts and methods of application best suited to local conditions. Q.-What is best for gardens: farm manure or commercial fer- tilizers? Use both by balancing farm manure with a 4-12-12 commercial fertilizer. If farm manure is fresh, it should be worked into the soil well in advance of planting. Follow by applying the recom- mended amount of 4-12-12 fertilizer. The farm manure should contribute the remaining portion of nitrogen necessary for good crop growth. Q.-Is it worth while to fertilize annuals? For most sandy soils of Florida, it is well worth the effort to fertilize annuals. However, this depends on the kind of annual you wish to grow. If you wish to grow large vigorous plants, additional fertilizer is necessary on most soils. Depending on the variety of plant, some annuals will require more or less fertilizer. Q.-How does the plant make use of nitrogen applied to the soil? Nitrogen is one of the building blocks in the manufacture of proteins by plants. This fact is highly important to the plant, especially to those plants used as foods. Q.-In addition to manure and compost, why is it necessary to add a complete fertilizer to a garden in order to set more fruit?  FERTILITY 47 Since both manure and compost are too low in phosphorus to set a satisfactory amount of fruit, they are not complete fertilizers. Plants will generally show good response to potassium as well. A supplemental amount of a 4-12-12 commercial fertilizer on this garden should grow satisfactory crops. Q.-How should fertilizer be applied to a planter box? Fertilizer may be applied either in dry form or in solution. If it is applied in dry form, it is good practice to wash the fertilizer into the soil with enough water to moisten it. For either method, it is important to follow directions carefully in order to apply the correct amounts of fertilizer. Q.-I have been told by an organic gardener that chemical ferti- lizers destroy bacteria and humus in the soil. Is this true? Soil bacteria are plants and require mineral elements just as plants do. Without these mineral elements, the soil bacteria would not be able to decompose plant residues and produce soil humus. Too much fertilizer of any kind will harm plants as well as soil microbes; proper amounts applied correctly are highly beneficial for both higher plants and soil microbes. Q.-Will plants grow better if only organic fertilizer is used? As long as they are in a weak water solution, plants have no special preference as to the source of their nutrient elements. The principal advantage for using organic fertilizers is in their slow liberation of these nutrient elements for plant use. Plants that are grown for high yields and size in the same soil, year after year, must be supplemented with inorganic fertilizers. This is especially true for the sandy soils of Florida. Q.-Is it safe to use poultry manure on potted plants? It is best not to use fresh poultry manure on potted plants. Prior to using poultry manure on plants, it should go through a period of decomposition. Decomposed poultry manure has no offensive odor and will liberate more available nutrients for plant use. One of the best ways to use poultry manure is to compost it with FERTILITY 47 FERTILITY 47 Since both manure and compost are too low in phosphorus to set a satisfactory amount of fruit, they are not complete fertilizers. Plants will generally show good response to potassium as well. A supplemental amount of a 4-12-12 commercial fertilizer on this garden should grow satisfactory crops. Q.-How should fertilizer be applied to a planter box? Fertilizer may be applied either in dry form or in solution. If it is applied in dry form, it is good practice to wash the fertilizer into the soil with enough water to moisten it. For either method, it is important to follow directions carefully in order to apply the correct amounts of fertilizer. Q.-I have been told by an organic gardener that chemical ferti- lizers destroy bacteria and humus in the soil. Is this true? Soil bacteria are plants and require mineral elements just as plants do. Without these mineral elements, the soil bacteria would not be able to decompose plant residues and produce soil humus. Too much fertilizer of any kind will harm plants as well as soil microbes; proper amounts applied correctly are highly beneficial for both higher plants and soil microbes. Q.-Will plants grow better if only organic fertilizer is used? As long as they are in a weak water solution, plants have no special preference as to the source of their nutrient elements. The principal advantage for using organic fertilizers is in their slow liberation of these nutrient elements for plant use. Plants that are grown for high yields and size in the same soil, year after year, must be supplemented with inorganic fertilizers. This is especially true for the sandy soils of Florida. Q.-Is it safe to use poultry manure on potted plants? It is best not to use fresh poultry manure on potted plants. Prior to using poultry manure on plants, it should go through a period of decomposition. Decomposed poultry manure has no offensive odor and will liberate more available nutrients for plant use. One of the best ways to use poultry manure is to compost it with Since both manure and compost are too low in phosphorus to set a satisfactory amount of fruit, they are not complete fertilizers. Plants will generally show good response to potassium as well. A supplemental amount of a 4-12-12 commercial fertilizer on this garden should grow satisfactory crops. Q.-How should fertilizer be applied to a planter box? Fertilizer may be applied either in dry form or in solution. If it is applied in dry form, it is good practice to wash the fertilizer into the soil with enough water to moisten it. For either method, it is important to follow directions carefully in order to apply the correct amounts of fertilizer. Q.-I have been told by an organic gardener that chemical ferti- lizers destroy bacteria and humus in the soil. Is this true? Soil bacteria are plants and require mineral elements just as plants do. Without these mineral elements, the soil bacteria would not be able to decompose plant residues and produce soil humus. Too much fertilizer of any kind will harm plants as well as soil microbes; proper amounts applied correctly are highly beneficial for both higher plants and soil microbes. Q.-Will plants grow better if only organic fertilizer is used? As long as they are in a weak water solution, plants have no special preference as to the source of their nutrient elements. The principal advantage for using organic fertilizers is in their slow liberation of these nutrient elements for plant use. Plants that are grown for high yields and size in the same soil, year after year, must be supplemented with inorganic fertilizers. This is especially true for the sandy soils of Florida. Q.-Is it safe to use poultry manure on potted plants? It is best not to use fresh poultry manure on potted plants. Prior to using poultry manure on plants, it should go through a period of decomposition. Decomposed poultry manure has no offensive odor and will liberate more available nutrients for plant use. One of the best ways to use poultry manure is to compost it with  48 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 48 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS. 48 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS leaves prior to use as a potting mixture, or apply directly on plants after the period of decomposition. Q.-Before planting a tree, why is it advisable to add some super- phosphate in the bottom of the hole? Because in many soils phosphorus is the one plant food element often deficient. This element fixes readily with the soil and does not move from place to place as does nitrogen. Therefore, a pound or two of superphosphate, placed in the planting hole and mixed well with the soil, should be beneficial in tree planting. Q.-Do plants need an application of vitamins for best growth? Since plants are the world's best suppliers of vitamins, they do not need any additional for better plant growth. Plants manufacture their own vitamins in great abundance. Q.-Should I fertilize St. Augustine and centipede grasses at the same time with the same fertilizer? In both texture and growth habits, these two grasses are quite dif- ferent. Centipede is an acid-demanding grass and St. Augustine does better in sweet soil. St. Augustine grows much faster and larger than centipede, thus using more fertilizer. Centipede is known as a low-maintenance grass. It is possible to use the same fertilizer, but the amount and frequency used for centipede should be less often and in smaller amounts. Q.-Is it safe to apply wood ashes to garden soil? As a general rule, wood ashes are excellent for applying to garden soil. They not only sweeten the soil, improving its physical prop- erties, but also add some potassium, calcium, and magnesium. On the other hand, wood ashes may be harmful in a garden loca- tion where acid-loving plants are growing. In this case, the de- creased acidity may tend to fix iron and manganese, causing leaf yellowing. Q.-How often should my lawn be fertilized? The kind of lawn and the weather should dictate the fertilizer needs. Centipede lawns require much less fertilizer than a St. leaves prior to use as a potting mixture, or apply directly on plants after the period of decomposition. Q.-Before planting a tree, why is it advisable to add some super- phosphate in the bottom of the hole? Because in many soils phosphorus is the one plant food element often deficient. This element fixes readily with the soil and does not move from place to place as does nitrogen. Therefore, a pound or two of superphosphate, placed in the planting hole and mixed well with the soil, should be beneficial in tree planting. Q.-Do plants need an application of vitamins for best growth? Since plants are the world's best suppliers of vitamins, they do not need any additional for better plant growth. Plants manufacture their own vitamins in great abundance. Q.-Should I fertilize St. Augustine and centipede grasses at the same time with the same fertilizer? In both texture and growth habits, these two grasses are quite dif- ferent. Centipede is an acid-demanding grass and St. Augustine does better in sweet soil. St. Augustine grows much faster and larger than centipede, thus using more fertilizer. Centipede is known as a low-maintenance grass. It is possible to use the same fertilizer, but the amount and frequency used for centipede should be less often and in smaller amounts. Q.-Is it safe to apply wood ashes to garden soil? As a general rule, wood ashes are excellent for applying to garden soil. They not only sweeten the soil, improving its physical prop- erties, but also add some potassium, calcium, and magnesium. On the other hand, wood ashes may be harmful in a garden loca- tion where acid-loving plants are growing. In this case, the de- creased acidity may tend to fix iron and manganese, causing leaf yellowing. Q.-How often should my lawn be fertilized? The kind of lawn and the weather should dictate the fertilizer needs. Centipede lawns require much less fertilizer than a St. leaves prior to use as a potting mixture, or apply directly on plants after the period of decomposition. Q.-Before planting a tree, why is it advisable to add some super- phosphate in the bottom of the hole? Because in many soils phosphorus is the one plant food element often deficient. This element fixes readily with the soil and does not move from place to place as does nitrogen. Therefore, a pound or two of superphosphate, placed in the planting hole and mixed well with the soil, should be beneficial in tree planting. Q.-Do plants need an application of vitamins for best growth? Since plants are the world's best suppliers of vitamins, they do not need any additional for better plant growth. Plants manufacture their own vitamins in great abundance. Q.-Should I fertilize St. Augustine and centipede grasses at the same time with the same fertilizer? In both texture and growth habits, these two grasses are quite dif- ferent. Centipede is an acid-demanding grass and St. Augustine does better in sweet soil. St. Augustine grows much faster and larger than centipede, thus using more fertilizer. Centipede is known as a low-maintenance grass. It is possible to use the same fertilizer, but the amount and frequency used for centipede should be less often and in smaller amounts. Q.-Is it safe to apply wood ashes to garden soil? As a general rule, wood ashes are excellent for applying to garden soil. They not only sweeten the soil, improving its physical prop- erties, but also add some potassium, calcium, and magnesium. On the other hand, wood ashes may be harmful in a garden loca- tion where acid-loving plants are growing. In this case, the de- creased acidity may tend to fix iron and manganese, causing leaf yellowing. Q.-How often should my lawn be fertilized? The kind of lawn and the weather should dictate the fertilizer needs. Centipede lawns require much less fertilizer than a St.  FERTILITY 49 FERTILITY 49 FERTILITY 49 Augustine lawn. During the rainy season, it may be necessary to top-dress with available nitrogen several times in order to keep a healthy green color. In general, most lawns require a spring and fall application of a complete mixed fertilizer, with several top- dressings of available nitrogen during the rainy months in sum- mer. Q.-I use a large quantity of citrus fertilizer. Can I use this fer- tilizer on other plants? In a citrus fertilizer the content of minor elements, especially copper, prevents its wide use on other kinds of plants. Q.-Is there any advantage in using a soluble 10-10-10 fertilizer over a granular 10-10-10 fertilizer? This depends on the use of the fertilizer. If the plants need a starter solution, then the 10-10-10 soluble mixture is the correct selection. When cost must be considered and heavy rains are fre- quent, the granular 10-10-10 is a wise selection. Granular 10-10-10 is a high-analysis fertilizer with no filler; consequently, the cost per pound of plant food is relatively reasonable. The hard, uniform granules remain through several showers of rain and are quite resistant to rapid leaching. Q.-Why is there so much talk about getting the phosphate fer- tilizer in the soil before and not after planting? If time and other factors allow, this is an excellent way of keeping a steady flow of available phosphorus for plant use. Since phos- phorus is readily fixed by all soils, it does not move far from its original position. Four or five times the actual amounts needed by plants are generally applied to take care of soil fixation. By mixing a liberal amount of superphosphate in the soil prior to planting, the soil will adjust itself to the phosphorus supply, lib- erating small amounts throughout the season for plant needs. Q.-My neighbor is growing tomatoes in wood shavings. What is she adding to make them grow? She is adding a nutrient solution containing all 16 plant food Augustine lawn. During the rainy season, it may be necessary to top-dress with available nitrogen several times in order to keep a healthy green color. In general, most lawns require a spring and fall application of a complete mixed fertilizer, with several top- dressings of available nitrogen during the rainy months in sum- mer. Q.-I use a large quantity of citrus fertilizer. Can I use this fer- tilizer on other plants? In a citrus fertilizer the content of minor elements, especially copper, prevents its wide use on other kinds of plants. Q.-Is there any advantage in using a soluble 10-10-10 fertilizer over a granular 10-10-10 fertilizer? This depends on the use of the fertilizer. If the plants need a starter solution, then the 10-10-10 soluble mixture is the correct selection. When cost must be considered and heavy rains are fre- quent, the granular 10-10-10 is a wise selection. Granular 10-10-10 is a high-analysis fertilizer with no filler; consequently, the cost per pound of plant food is relatively reasonable. The hard, uniform granules remain through several showers of rain and are quite resistant to rapid leaching. Q.-Why is there so much talk about getting the phosphate fer- tilizer in the soil before and not after planting? If time and other factors allow, this is an excellent way of keeping a steady flow of available phosphorus for plant use. Since phos- phorus is readily fixed by all soils, it does not move far from its original position. Four or five times the actual amounts needed by plants are generally applied to take care of soil fixation. By mixing a liberal amount of superphosphate in the soil prior to planting, the soil will adjust itself to the phosphorus supply, lib- erating small amounts throughout the season for plant needs. Q.-My neighbor is growing tomatoes in wood shavings. What is she adding to make them grow? She is adding a nutrient solution containing all 16 plant food Augustine lawn. During the rainy season, it may be necessary to top-dress with available nitrogen several times in order to keep a healthy green color. In general, most lawns require a spring and fall application of a complete mixed fertilizer, with several top- dressings of available nitrogen during the rainy months in sum- mer. Q.-I use a large quantity of citrus fertilizer. Can I use this fer- tilizer on other plants? In a citrus fertilizer the content of minor elements, especially copper, prevents its wide use on other kinds of plants. Q.-Is there any advantage in using a soluble 10-10-10 fertilizer over a granular 10-10-10 fertilizer? This depends on the use of the fertilizer. If the plants need a starter solution, then the 10-10-10 soluble mixture is the correct selection. When cost must be considered and heavy rains are fre- quent, the granular 10-10-10 is a wise selection. Granular 10-10-10 is a high-analysis fertilizer with no filler; consequently, the cost per pound of plant food is relatively reasonable. The hard, uniform granules remain through several showers of rain and are quite resistant to rapid leaching. Q.-Why is there so much talk about getting the phosphate fer- tilizer in the soil before and not after planting? If time and other factors allow, this is an excellent way of keeping a steady flow of available phosphorus for plant use. Since phos- phorus is readily fixed by all soils, it does not move far from its original position. Four or five times the actual amounts needed by plants are generally applied to take care of soil fixation. By mixing a liberal amount of superphosphate in the soil prior to planting, the soil will adjust itself to the phosphorus supply, lib- erating small amounts throughout the season for plant needs. Q.-My neighbor is growing tomatoes in wood shavings. What is she adding to make them grow? She is adding a nutrient solution containing all 16 plant food  50 YoUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 50 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 50 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS elements. These soluble salts may be purchased in balanced form from your feed and seed store. They are added to a given quantity of water and sprinkled on the wood shavings as required. Q.-Is there a connection between fertilizing and bloom drop? Yes, there is some connection. Overfertilization can be the greatest cause of leaf and bloom drop. Other conditions that may cause leaf and bloom drop are too high a content of potash or nitrogen, cold damage, and certain soil-borne diseases. Q.--How often should I fertilize? A blanket answer cannot be given for this question. Allow the kind of plant and the type of soil to be your guide for the time, amount, and kind of fertilizer to use. A large amount of informa- tion may be obtained by reading the many bulletins, production guides, and pamphlets that are distributed, free of charge, by your State Agricultural Experiment Station and Extension Service. Q.-When is the best time to fertilize azaleas and camellias? In the early spring and again during the summer rainy season. The early application is for the purpose of root development. The summer application is for the purpose of taking care of losses of fertilizer by leaching, and for top growth. Q.-Can nutrient elements be fed entirely through the leaves? Recent research has shown that this is not possible. It is possible to supply minor elements by foliar spray. It is impossible to supply the entire needs of the plant for the major elements by foliar sprays. Q.-Can a special fertilizer be used to change dogwood tree blooms from white to pink? Fertilizer has no relation to the color of dogwood tree blooms. Q.-I applied the recommended amount of fertilizer and have had 8 in. of rainfall. How much of the fertilizer should be left in the soil? If all the initial fertilizer recommendation was applied, some of elements. These soluble salts may be purchased in balanced form from your feed and seed store. They are added to a given quantity of water and sprinkled on the wood shavings as required. Q.-Is there a connection between fertilizing and bloom drop? Yes, there is some connection. Overfertilization can be the greatest cause of leaf and bloom drop. Other conditions that may cause leaf and bloom drop are too high a content of potash or nitrogen, cold damage, and certain soil-borne diseases. Q.-How often should I fertilize? A blanket answer cannot be given for this question. Allow the kind of plant and the type of soil to be your guide for the time, amount, and kind of fertilizer to use. A large amount of informa- tion may be obtained by reading the many bulletins, production guides, and pamphlets that are distributed, free of charge, by your State Agricultural Experiment Station and Extension Service. Q.-When is the best time to fertilize azaleas and camellias? In the early spring and again during the summer rainy season. The early application is for the purpose of root development. The summer application is for the purpose of taking care of losses of fertilizer by leaching, and for top growth. Q.-Can nutrient elements be fed entirely through the leaves? Recent research has shown that this is not possible. It is possible to supply minor elements by foliar spray. It is impossible to supply the entire needs of the plant for the major elements by foliar sprays. Q.-Can a special fertilizer be used to change dogwood tree blooms from white to pink? Fertilizer has no relation to the color of dogwood tree blooms. Q.-I applied the recommended amount of fertilizer and have had 8 in. of rainfall. How much of the fertilizer should be left in the soil? If all the initial fertilizer recommendation was applied, some of elements. These soluble salts may be purchased in balanced form from your feed and seed store. They are added to a given quantity of water and sprinkled on the wood shavings as required. Q.-Is there a connection between fertilizing and bloom drop? Yes, there is some connection. Overfertilization can be the greatest cause of leaf and bloom drop. Other conditions that may cause leaf and bloom drop are too high a content of potash or nitrogen, cold damage, and certain soil-borne diseases. Q.-Haw often should I fertilize? A blanket answer cannot be given for this question. Allow the kind of plant and the type of soil to be your guide for the time, amount, and kind of fertilizer to use. A large amount of informa- tion may be obtained by reading the many bulletins, production guides, and pamphlets that are distributed, free of charge, by your State Agricultural Experiment Station and Extension Service. Q.-When is the best time to fertilize azaleas and camellias? In the early spring and again during the summer rainy season. The early application is for the purpose of root development. The summer application is for the purpose of taking care of losses of fertilizer by leaching, and for top growth. Q.-Can nutrient elements be fed entirely through the leaves? Recent research has shown that this is not possible. It is possible to supply minor elements by foliar spray. It is impossible to supply the entire needs of the plant for the major elements by foliar sprays. Q.-Can a special fertilizer be used to change dogwood tree blooms from white to pink? Fertilizer has no relation to the color of dogwood tree blooms. Q.-I applied the recommended amount of fertilizer and have had 8 in. of rainfall. How much of the fertilizer should be left in the soil? If all the initial fertilizer recommendation was applied, some of  FERTILITY 51 FERTILITY 51 FERTILITY 51 it will be lost by leaching. How much fertilizer and nutrients will be lost will depend on several factors: 1. The soil type: The sandier the soil, the greater the loss. 2. The kind of nutrient: Phosphorus is the last to leach out. 3. If the garden was fallow or if vigorous growth was present. 4. If the rain was light over a long period of time, or heavy over a short period of time. Q.-Why doesn't native growth in the woods and fields turn yel- low in color from lack of nitrogen fertilizer? These plants have adapted themselves to the amount of nitrogen in the soil they are growing in. Native plants that have a rel- atively high need for nitrogen are found in areas where sufficient nitrogen is present in the soil. When undisturbed by man, nature tends to establish its own ecological balance. Q.-What is soil fixation of plant food elements? When any readily available plant food element in the soil is con- verted to a form that plants are unable to utilize, this is known as fixation. Fixed plant nutrients may not be available for the im- mediate needs of plants, but they can be available after a period of weathering or biological activity. In order to take care of fixa- tion in the soil, phosphorus is often applied in a much larger quantity than plants need. Q.-What is meant by the terms leaching and percolation? Percolation is the natural infiltration of rainfall down through the soil profile. Percolation water enters the normal water table of the soil where it is stored for future use. Leaching pertains to the removal of soluble plant food elements by excessive amounts of water within the soil profile. In many of our Florida sandy soils, leaching is a special problem. Q.-If I let my garden spot remain idle for several years, will it become more fertile? After mineral soils are taken out of production, they become less fertile. The leaching rains remove the extra plant nutrients nec- it will be lost by leaching. How much fertilizer and nutrients will be lost will depend on several factors: 1. The soil type: The sandier the soil, the greater the loss. 2. The kind of nutrient: Phosphorus is the last to leach out. 3. If the garden was fallow or if vigorous growth was present. 4. If the rain was light over a long period of time, or heavy over a short period of time. Q.-Why doesn't native growth in the woods and fields turn yel- low in color from lack of nitrogen fertilizer? These plants have adapted themselves to the amount of nitrogen in the soil they are growing in. Native plants that have a rel- atively high need for nitrogen are found in areas where sufficient nitrogen is present in the soil. When undisturbed by man, nature tends to establish its own ecological balance. Q.-What is soil fixation of plant food elements? When any readily available plant food element in the soil is con- verted to a form that plants are unable to utilize, this is known as fixation. Fixed plant nutrients may not be available for the im- mediate needs of plants, but they can be available after a period of weathering or biological activity. In order to take care of fixa- tion in the soil, phosphorus is often applied in a much larger quantity than plants need. Q.-What is meant by the terms leaching and percolation? Percolation is the natural infiltration of rainfall down through the soil profile. Percolation water enters the normal water table of the soil where it is stored for future use. Leaching pertains to the removal of soluble plant food elements by excessive amounts of water within the soil profile. In many of our Florida sandy soils, leaching is a special problem. Q.-If I let my garden spot remain idle for several years, will it become more fertile? After mineral soils are taken out of production, they become less fertile. The leaching rains remove the extra plant nutrients nec- it will be lost by leaching. How much fertilizer and nutrients will be lost will depend on several factors: 1. The soil type: The sandier the soil, the greater the loss. 2. The kind of nutrient: Phosphorus is the last to leach out. 3. If the garden was fallow or if vigorous growth was present. 4. If the rain was light over a long period of time, or heavy over a short period of time. Q.-Why doesn't native growth in the woods and fields turn yel- low in color from lack of nitrogen fertilizer? These plants have adapted themselves to the amount of nitrogen in the soil they are growing in. Native plants that have a rel- atively high need for nitrogen are found in areas where sdfficient nitrogen is present in the soil. When undisturbed by man, nature tends to establish its own ecological balance. Q.-What is soil fixation of plant food elements? When any readily available plant food element in the soil is con- verted to a form that plants are unable to utilize, this is known as fixation. Fixed plant nutrients may not be available for the im- mediate needs of plants, but they can be available after a period of weathering or biological activity. In order to take care of fixa- tion in the soil, phosphorus is often applied in a much larger quantity than plants need. Q.-What is meant by the terms leaching and percolation? Percolation is the natural infiltration of rainfall down through the soil profile. Percolation water enters the normal water table of the soil where it is stored for future use. Leaching pertains to the removal of soluble plant food elements by excessive amounts of water within the soil profile. In many of our Florida sandy soils, leaching is a special problem. Q.-If I let my garden spot remain idle for several years, will it become more fertile? After mineral soils are taken out of production, they become less fertile. The leaching rains remove the extra plant nutrients nec-  52 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS essary for intensive garden growth of vegetables. However, leach- ing also lowers the population of harmful nematodes in a garden soil. Native growth will begin to thrive, since some nitrogen enters the fallow soil from rains, microbial activity, and decomposition. Q.-Can I burn azaleas by putting too much iron sulfate too close to the root system? Azaleas can be burned by applying too much of any readily avail- able fertilizer too near the roots. This is especially true of the more soluble inorganic fertilizers. Since azalea roots are near the surface, the plants are easily burned if the fertilizer is not applied carefully. Q.-What is meant by building up a garden soil? This term applies to treating a soil to obtain its top productivity. This can be accomplished with special attention to the soil mois- ture condition, soil structure, organic matter content, fertility, and liming needs. See your County Agricultural Agent for bulle- tins on this subject. Q.-My garden soil is good and I use fertilizer, yet my corn plants turn yellow when they reach a height of about 4 ft. What is wrong? Your fertilizer program is off balance. You probably used only the initial application of mixed fertilizer and did not apply the avail- able nitrogen side-dressing when the corn was knee-high. Without this side-dressing on soils low in organic matter, corn will not mature properly. Q.-What causes the roots of my vegetables to rot? It could be plant pests or waterlogged soil, probably the latter. Roots of most vegetables will not live long in waterlogged soil. Waterlogged soils cut off the supply of oxygen so vitally needed by growing plants. Q.-My yard is made up of dredged subsoil. Can it be used to grow plants? 52 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS essary for intensive garden growth of vegetables. However, leach- ing also lowers the population of harmful nematodes in a garden soil. Native growth will begin to thrive, since some nitrogen enters the fallow soil from rains, microbial activity, and decomposition. Q.-Can I burn azaleas by putting too much iron sulfate too close to the root system? Azaleas can be burned by applying too much of any readily avail- able fertilizer too near the roots. This is especially true of the more soluble inorganic fertilizers. Since azalea roots are near the surface, the plants are easily burned if the fertilizer is not applied carefully. Q.-What is meant by building up a garden soil? This term applies to treating a soil to obtain its top productivity. This can be accomplished with special attention to the soil mois- ture condition, soil structure, organic matter content, fertility, and liming needs. See your County Agricultural Agent for bulle- tins on this subject. Q.-My garden soil is good and I use fertilizer, yet my corn plants turn yellow when they reach a height of about 4 ft. What is wrong? Your fertilizer program is off balance. You probably used only the initial application of mixed fertilizer and did not apply the avail- able nitrogen side-dressing when the corn was knee-high. Without this side-dressing on soils low in organic matter, corn will not mature properly. Q.-What causes the roots of my vegetables to rot? It could be plant pests or waterlogged soil, probably the latter. Roots of most vegetables will not live long in waterlogged soil. Waterlogged soils cut off the supply of oxygen so vitally needed by growing plants. Q.-My yard is made up of dredged subsoil. Can it be used to grow plants? 52 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS essary for intensive garden growth of vegetables. However, leach- ing also lowers the population of harmful nematodes in a garden soil. Native growth will begin to thrive, since some nitrogen enters the fallow soil from rains, microbial activity, and decomposition. Q.-Can I burn azaleas by putting too much iron sulfate too close to the root system? Azaleas can be burned by applying too much of any readily avail- able fertilizer too near the roots. This is especially true of the more soluble inorganic fertilizers. Since azalea roots are near the surface, the plants are easily burned if the fertilizer is not applied carefully. Q.-What is meant by building up a garden soil? This term applies to treating a soil to obtain its top productivity. This can be accomplished with special attention to the soil mois- ture condition, soil structure, organic matter content, fertility, and liming needs. See your County Agricultural Agent for bulle- tins on this subject. Q.-My garden soil is good and I use fertilizer, yet my corn plants turn yellow when they reach a height of about 4 ft. What is wrong? Your fertilizer program is off balance. You probably used only the initial application of mixed fertilizer and did not apply the avail- able nitrogen side-dressing when the corn was knee-high. Without this side-dressing on soils low in organic matter, corn will not mature properly. Q.-What causes the roots of my vegetables to rot? It could be plant pests or waterlogged soil, probably the latter. Roots of most vegetables will not live long in waterlogged soil. Waterlogged soils cut off the supply of oxygen so vitally needed by growing plants. Q.-My yard is made up of dredged subsoil. Can it be used to grow plants?  FERTILITY 53 FERTILITY 53 FERTILITY 53 Yes, it can be used. You can either grow a good green manure crop and turn it under at maturity, or work 2 or 3 in. of black peat into the topsoil. The idea is to add some organic nitrogen to the soil, as well as improve its structure. Q.-Why do some soils require more fertilizer than others for the thrifty growth of plants? There are many types of soils. They vary as to nutrient supply, moisture conditions, soil reaction, organic matter content, texture, and structure. To support the growth of cultivated plants, the coarser-textured soils with low organic matter content need addi- tional supplies of fertilizer. Other finer-textured soils holdnmore moisture against leaching, thus retaining more fertilizer f9 the benefit of plant growth. Q.-Is it a good idea to clean cultivate around the trees in my lawn? If enough fertilizer and moisture are used for both the lawn and the tree, it is not necessary to clean cultivate around yourdawn trees. If this is impossible, especially around fruit trees, then it is a good idea. Q.-Will soil alone cause a difference in the taste of vegetables? If plants get all 16 essential elements in the right amounts and proportions and have enough heat, light, and moisture, they will taste the same in any medium supporting plant growth. Soils alone will not make any difference in the taste of vegetables. Q.-Although I planted my tomatoes in the shade and gave them plenty of nitrogen fertilizer, they are all stem and leaf. What did I do wrong? You gave your own answer. You planted them in the shade with plenty of nitrogen fertilizer. This is the best way to grow leaves and vines. A balanced fertilizer should be used. Grow the toma- toes in the open sun so the carbohydrate balance will be in favor of blooms and fruit. Yes, it can be used. You can either grow a good green manure crop and turn it under at maturity, or work 2 or 3 in. of black peat into the topsoil. The idea is to add some organic nitrogen to the soil, as well as improve its structure. Q.-Why do some soils require more fertilizer than others for the thrifty growth of plants? There are many types of soils. They vary as to nutrient supply, moisture conditions, soil reaction, organic matter content, texture, and structure. To support the growth of cultivated plants, the coarser-textured soils with low organic matter content need addi- tional supplies of fertilizer. Other finer-textured soils hold more moisture against leaching, thus retaining more fertilizer fo the benefit of plant growth. Q.-Is it a good idea to clean cultivate around the trees in my lawn? If enough fertilizer and moisture are used for both the lawn and the tree, it is not necessary to clean cultivate around your dawn trees. If this is impossible, especially around fruit trees, then it is a good idea. Q.-Will soil alone cause a difference in the taste of vegetables? If plants get all 16 essential elements in the right amounts and proportions and have enough heat, light, and moisture, they will taste the same in any medium supporting plant growth. Soils alone will not make any difference in the taste of vegetables. Q.-Although I planted my tomatoes in the shade and gave them plenty of nitrogen fertilizer, they are all stem and leaf. What did I do wrong? You gave your own answer. You planted them in the shade with plenty of nitrogen fertilizer. This is the best way to grow leaves and vines. A balanced fertilizer should be used. Grow the toma- toes in the open sun so the carbohydrate balance will be in favor of blooms and fruit. Yes, it can be used. You can either grow a good green manure crop and turn it under at maturity, or work 2 or 3 in. of black peat into the topsoil. The idea is to add some organic nitrogen to the soil, as well as improve its structure. Q.-Why do some soils require more fertilizer than others for the thrifty growth of plants? There are many types of soils. They vary as to nutrient supply, moisture conditions, soil reaction, organic matter content, texture, and structure. To support the growth of cultivated plants, the coarser-textured soils with low organic matter content need addi- tional supplies of fertilizer. Other finer-textured soils hold more moisture against leaching, thus retaining more fertilizer for the benefit of plant growth. Q.-Is it a good idea to clean cultivate around the trees in my lawn? If enough fertilizer and moisture are used for both the lawn and the tree, it is not necessary to clean cultivate around your dawn trees. If this is impossible, especially around fruit trees, then it is a good idea. Q.-Will soil alone cause a difference in the taste of vegetables? If plants get all 16 essential elements in the right amounts and proportions and have enough heat, light, and moisture, they will taste the same in any medium supporting plant growth. Soils alone will not make any difference in the taste of vegetables. Q.-Although I planted my tomatoes in the shade and gave them plenty of nitrogen fertilizer, they are all stem and leaf. What did I do wrong? You gave your own answer. You planted them in the shade with plenty of nitrogen fertilizer. This is the best way to grow leaves and vines. A balanced fertilizer should be used. Grow the toma- toes in the open sun so the carbohydrate balance will be in favor of blooms and fruit.  54 YOUR FLORIDA GADDEN SoItS Q.-I have heard that soils contain colloidal material. If this is true, of what importance are they? Soils contain several different mineral colloids as well as organic colloids. These colloidal materials are probably the most impor- tant substance in a soil. One cu. ft. of clay soil may have 2,000,- 000 sq. ft. of surface area, all of which is exposed to moisture, chemical reactions, and biological activity. The more one knows about the colloidal content of a soil, the better understanding he will have of its relation to plant growth. Q.-In planning the location of a garden, should one take into consideration the soil type, location of trees, buildings, and slope of the land? Yes, indeed. A soil with good moisture conditions and a favorable amount of organic matter should be selected. If grown under too much shade, plants tend to become vegetative. If some shade is necessary for certain types of plants, it should be in the late after- noon and not in the morning. Most garden plants do best in the full sunlight. Q.-Is it necessary to fertilize black soils? In black soils of Florida, the only element that may be present in relatively high amounts is nitrogen. Until the soil is properly managed, this nitrogen is mostly unavailable. Potassium, which is used in large amounts by growing plants, is actually deficient in black soils, such as mucks. Just as the mineral soils of Florida need good soil management, so do the black soils. Q.-Why do plants need such small amounts of the minor or trace elements? It has been shown that most minor elements are related to the function of specific enzyme systems in the plant. As such, and since they do not form a part of the plant tissue, they are needed in extremely small amounts. Q.-What special effect does potassium have on plant growth? Potassium is needed in large quantity in the plant conducting 54 Youn FLORDA GARDEN SotsL Q.-I have heard that soils contain colloidal material. If this is true, of what importance are they? Soils contain several different mineral colloids as well as organic colloids. These colloidal materials are probably the most impor- tant substance in a soil. One cu. ft. of clay soil may have 2,000,- 000 sq. ft. of surface area, all of which is exposed to moisture, chemical reactions, and biological activity. The more one knows about the colloidal content of a soil, the better understanding he will have of its relation to plant growth. Q.-In planning the location of a garden, should one take into consideration the soil type, location of trees, buildings, and slope of the land? Yes, indeed. A soil with good moisture conditions and a favorable amount of organic matter should be selected. If grown under too much shade, plants tend to become vegetative. If some shade is necessary for certain types of plants, it should be in the late after- noon and not in the morning. Most garden plants do best in the full sunlight. Q.-Is it necessary to fertilize black soils? In black soils of Florida, the only element that may be present in relatively high amounts is nitrogen. Until the soil is properly managed, this nitrogen is mostly unavailable. Potassium, which is used in large amounts by growing plants, is actually deficient in black soils, such as mucks. Just as the mineral soils of Florida need good soil management, so do the black soils. Q.-Why do plants need such small amounts of the minor or trace elements? It has been shown that most minor elements are related to the function of specific enzyme systems in the plant. As such, and since they do not form a part of the plant tissue, they are needed in extremely small amounts. Q.-What special effect does potassium have on plant growth? Potassium is needed in large quantity in the plant conducting 54 Youn FLORIDA GADDEN SoaLs Q.-I have heard that soils contain colloidal material. If this is true, of what importance are they? Soils contain several different mineral colloids as well as organic colloids. These colloidal materials are probably the most impor- tant substance in a soil. One cu. ft. of clay soil may have 2,000,- 000 sq. ft. of surface area, all of which is exposed to moisture, chemical reactions, and biological activity. The more one knows about the colloidal content of a soil, the better understanding he will have of its relation to plant growth. Q.-In planning the location of a garden, should one take into consideration the soil type, location of trees, buildings, and slope of the land? Yes, indeed. A soil with good moisture conditions and a favorable amount of organic matter should be selected. If grown under too much shade, plants tend to become vegetative. If some shade is necessary for certain types of plants, it should be in the late after- noon and not in the morning. Most garden plants do best in the full sunlight. Q.-Is it necessary to fertilize black soils? In black soils of Florida, the only element that may be present in relatively high amounts is nitrogen. Until the soil is properly managed, this nitrogen is mostly unavailable. Potassium, which is used in large amounts by growing plants, is actually deficient in black soils, such as mucks. Just as the mineral soils of Florida need good soil management, so do the black soils. Q.-Why do plants need such small amounts of the minor or trace elements? It has been shown that most minor elements are related to the function of specific enzyme systems in the plant. As such, and since they do not form a part of the plant tissue, they are needed in extremely small amounts. Q.-What special effect does potassium have on plant growth? Potassium is needed in large quantity in the plant conducting  FERTILITY 55 tissues. Woody plants seem to have an extra high requirement for potassium. Potassium is the "stiffener" for plant growth. It does just the opposite of nitrogen. Instead of soft growth, potassium promotes firm, erect plants and causes them to be more resistant to cold and plant diseases. Q.-What are the best soil conditions for African-violets? African-violets like a potting mixture that is organic in nature, fibrous in texture, and well supplied with plant food nutrients. Subsurface watering and limited amount of light are also some growth requirements for these plants. Q.-What soil conditions are best for hibiscus? Hibiscus soil should not be too wet or too dry and should have a high content of organic matter. The fertility value of the soil should be high and preferably on the sweet side (pH 6 to 7). A good mulch of leaves will help in keeping a uniform soil tem- perature and moisture. Q.-Do hollies require special soil conditions? Hollies have a wide range of soil preferences. Except for the swamp species of holly, most hollies prefer a well-drained soil covered with a thick mulch of leaves or pine needles. Q.-Should I remove the paper pots from plants prior to planting? This is not necessary. Roots will easily pierce the paper and con- tinue to grow normally in the soil. Q.-Is the County Agricultural Agent's offce a good place to go for a wide variety of agricultural literature? The County Agent's office is an excellent place to go for both state and federal literature on all phases of agriculture. Q.-I have been told that the rows in my winter garden should run north and south. Why is this? One of several essential growth factors for plants is light. All plants have their own special photoperiods. Some require long periods of light and others require short periods of light. All FERTILITY 55 tissues. Woody plants seem to have an extra high requirement for potassium. Potassium is the "stiffener" for plant growth. It does just the opposite of nitrogen. Instead of soft growth, potassium promotes firm, erect plants and causes them to be more resistant to cold and plant diseases. Q.-What are the best soil conditions for African-violets? African-violets like a potting mixture that is organic in nature, fibrous in texture, and well supplied with plant food nutrients. Subsurface watering and limited amount of light are also some growth requirements for these plants. Q.-What soil conditions are best for hibiscus? Hibiscus soil should not be too wet or too dry and should have a high content of organic matter. The fertility value of the soil should be high and preferably on the sweet side (pH 6 to 7). A good mulch of leaves will help in keeping a uniform soil tem- perature and moisture. Q.-Do hollies require special soil conditions? Hollies have a wide range of soil preferences. Except for the swamp species of holly, most hollies prefer a well-drained soil covered with a thick mulch of leaves or pine needles. Q.-Should I remove the paper pots from plants prior to planting? This is not necessary. Roots will easily pierce the paper and con- tinue to grow normally in the soil. Q.-Is the County Agricultural Agent's office a good place to go for a wide variety of agricultural literature? The County Agent's office is an excellent place to go for both state and federal literature on all phases of agriculture. Q.-I have been told that the rows in my winter garden should run north and south. Why is this? One of several essential growth factors for plants is light. All plants have their own special photoperiods. Some require long periods of light and others require short periods of light. All FERTILITY 55 tissues. Woody plants seem to have an extra high requirement for potassium. Potassium is the "stiffener" for plant growth. It does just the opposite of nitrogen. Instead of soft growth, potassium promotes firm, erect plants and causes them to be more resistant to cold and plant diseases. Q.-What are the best soil conditions for African-violets? African-violets like a potting mixture that is organic in nature, fibrous in texture, and well supplied with plant food nutrients. Subsurface watering and limited amount of light are also some growth requirements for these plants. Q.-What soil conditions are best for hibiscus? Hibiscus soil should not be too wet or too dry and should have a high content of organic matter. The fertility value of the soil should be high and preferably on the sweet side (pH 6 to 7). A good mulch of leaves will help in keeping a uniform soil tem- perature and moisture. Q.-Do hollies require special soil conditions? Hollies have a wide range of soil preferences. Except for the swamp species of holly, most hollies prefer a well-drained soil covered with a thick mulch of leaves or pine needles. Q.-Should I remove the paper pots from plants prior to planting? This is not necessary. Roots will easily pierce the paper and con- tinue to grow normally in the soil. Q.-Is the County Agricultural Agent's office a good place to go for a wide variety of agricultural literature? The County Agent's office is an excellent place to go for both state and federal literature on all phases of agriculture. Q.-I have been told that the rows in my winter garden should run north and south. Why is this? One of several essential growth factors for plants is light. All plants have their own special photoperiods. Some require long periods of light and others require short periods of light. All  56 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 56 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 56 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS plants have a minimum requirement for the length of time they must receive light for the manufacture of sugars and starches. By running the rows of the winter garden north and south, each plant is receiving as much light as possible from the winter sun which is low in the southern horizon. If the rows were running east and west, the shadow of the southernmost row would prevent light from reaching other rows in the garden. Q.-What is the purpose of clean cultivation around fruit trees? Preservation of soil moisture. One of the greatest limiting factors for tree growth is soil moisture. Weeds and other growth will compete with the tree roots for available moisture. Q.-Is therg gny danger in tilling garden soils too deep? Deep tillage eun/bharmful when it is necessary to till the garden after the plsnts are fairly large in size. Tillage at this time can cut many of the lateral feeding roots and harm the normal growth of the plant. Q.-% sandy soil the only texture of soil good for citrus? In frost-free areas, citrus will grow on many different soil types provided they are properly drained, limed, and fertilized. Q.-What are the soil factors that promote the best growth of garden plants? Some of the important soil factors are as follows: 1. Adequate soil moisture. 2. Good soil structure and texture. 3. Good organic matter content. 4. Enough plant food nutrients. 5. Good weed control. 6. Regular treatment for pests. 7. Proper soil drainage and aeration. 8. Adjustment of the soil reaction where needed. Q.-Should the kind of plant determine how deep to plow the garden? plants have a minimum requirement for the length of time they must receive light for the manufacture of sugars and starches. By running the rows of the winter garden north and south, each plant is receiving as much light as possible from the winter sun which is low in the southern horizon. If the rows were running east and west, the shadow of the southernmost row would prevent light from reaching other rows in the garden. Q.-What is the purpose of clean cultivation around fruit trees? Preservation of soil moisture. One of the greatest limiting factors for tree growth is soil moisture. Weeds and other growth will compete with the tree roots for available moisture. Q.-Is therg any danger in tilling garden soils too deep? Deep tillage can be harmful when it is necessary to till the garden after the plants are fairly large in size. Tillage at this time can cut many of the lateral feeding roots and harm the normal growth of the plant. Q.-ln sandy soil the only texture of soil good for citrus? In frost-free areas, citrus will grow on many different soil types provided they are properly drained, limed, and fertilized. Q.-What are the soil factors that promote the best growth of garden plants? Some of the important soil factors are as follows: 1. Adequate soil moisture. 2. Good soil structure and texture. 3. Good organic matter content. 4. Enough plant food nutrients. 5. Good weed control. 6. Regular treatment for pests. 7. Proper soil drainage and aeration. 8. Adjustment of the soil reaction where needed. Q.-Should the kind of plant determine how deep to plow the garden? plants have a minimum requirement for the length of time they must receive light for the manufacture of sugars and starches. By running the rows of the winter garden north and south, each plant is receiving as much light as possible from the winter sun which is low in the southern horizon. If the rows were running east and west, the shadow of the southernmost row would prevent light from reaching other rows in the garden. Q.-What is the purpose of clean cultivation around fruit trees? Preservation of soil moisture. One of the greatest limiting factors for tree growth is soil moisture. Weeds and other growth will compete with the tree roots for available moisture. Q.-Is thergany danger in tilling garden soils too deep? Deep tillage can is harmful when it is necessary to till the garden after the plants are fairly large in size. Tillage at this time can cut many of the lateral feeding roots and harm the normal growth of the plant. Q.-Ih sandy soil the only texture of soil good for citrus? In frost-free areas, citrus will grow on many different soil types provided they are properly drained, limed, and fertilized. Q.-What are the soil factors that promote the best growth of garden plants? Some of the important soil factors are as follows: 1. Adequate soil moisture. 2. Good soil structure and texture. 3. Good organic matter content. 4. Enough plant food nutrients. 5. Good weed control. 6. Regular treatment for pests. 7. Proper soil drainage and aeration. 8. Adjustment of the soil reaction where needed. Q.-Should the kind of plant determine how deep to plow the garden?  FERTILITY 57 Better yet, the kind of plant and the type of soil. Very fine- textured soils that tend to pack near the surface are improved in soil structure when they are plowed deep. Deep plowing allows better soil aeration and root penetration for those plants that naturally have a deep root system. Q.-Should fertilizer be placed in the planting hole before set- ting the plant or placed around the plant after it is planted? If properly carried out, both should be done. The hole should be dug deep enough so that a small quantity of mixed fertilizer can be placed in the bottom and covered with soil. The plant is placed in the hole and soaked with water. After the plant is well established, a small circle of mixed fertilizer should be sprfhkled around the plant at about the leaf-drip once or twice each year. Q.-What is meant by a split application of fertilizer? When a basic fertilizer recommendation is applied in two or more portions during the growing season, itin known as a split application. For example, a 4-lb. recommendation of fertilizer is applied as 2 lbs. during planting and 2 lbs. during the middle of the growing season. Q.-What is the difference between drilling and broadcasting a mixed fertilizer? Each method has its place in the garden program. Drilling is the only practical method of applying fertilizer to row crops. It is done by laying a band of fertilizer on each of the rows, 2 in. to one side and 2 in. deep. Broadcasting has its place for lawns and pasture, and involves the spreading of recommended amounts of fertilizer uniformly over a prescribed area. Q.-Is it true that plants grown with organic fertilizers are more resistant to pests than plants grown with commercial ferti- lizers? Plants receiving their nutrients in the proper amounts and pro- portion from either organic or commercial fertilizer sources are equally thrifty and resistant to pests. FERTILITY 57 Better yet, the kind of plant and the type of soil. Very fine- textured soils that tend to pack near the surface are improved in soil structure when they are plowed deep. Deep plowing allows better soil aeration and root penetration for those plants that naturally have a deep root system. Q.-Should fertilizer be placed in the planting hole before set- ting the plant or placed around the plant after it is planted? If properly carried out, both should be done. The hole should be dug deep enough so that a small quantity of mixed fertilizer can be placed in the bottom and covered with soil. The plant is placed in the hole and soaked with water. After the plant is well established, a small circle of mixed fertilizer should be sprinkled around the plant at about the leaf-drip once or twice each year. Q.-What is meant by a split application of fertilizer? When a basic fertilizer recommendation is applied in two or more portions during the growing season, itfs known as a split application. For example, a 4-lb. recommendation of fertilizer is applied as 2 lbs. during planting and 2 lbs. during the middle of the growing season. Q.-What is the difference between drilling and broadcasting a mixed fertilizer? Each method has its place in the garden program. Drilling is the only practical method of applying fertilizer to row crops. It is done by laying a band of fertilizer on each of the rows, 2 in. to one side and 2 in. deep. Broadcasting has its place for lawns and pasture, and involves the spreading of recommended amounts of fertilizer uniformly over a prescribed area. Q.-Is it true that plants grown with organic fertilizers are more resistant to pests than plants grown with commercial ferti- lizers? Plants receiving their nutrients in the proper amounts and pro- portion from either organic or commercial fertilizer sources are equally thrifty and resistant to pests. FERTILITY 57 Better yet, the kind of plant and the type of soil. Very fine- textured soils that tend to pack near the surface are improved in soil structure when they are plowed deep. Deep plowing allows better soil aeration and root penetration for those plants that naturally have a deep root system. Q.-Should fertilizer be placed in the planting hole before set- ting the plant or placed around the plant after it is planted? If properly carried out, both should be done. The hole should be dug deep enough so that a small quantity of mixed fertilizer can be placed in the bottom and covered with soil. The plant is placed in the hole and soaked with water. After the plant is well established, a small circle of mixed fertilizer should be sprinkled around the plant at about the leaf-drip once or twice each year. Q.-What is meant by a split application of fertilizer? When a basic fertilizer recommendation is applied in two or more portions during the growing season, it#s known as a split application. For example, a 4-lb. recommendation of fertilizer is applied as 2 lbs. during planting and 2 lbs. during the middle of the growing season. Q.-What is the difference between drilling and broadcasting a mixed fertilizer? Each method has its place in the garden program. Drilling is the only practical method of applying fertilizer to row crops. It is done by laying a band of fertilizer on each of the rows, 2 in. to one side and 2 in. deep. Broadcasting has its place for lawns and pasture, and involves the spreading of recommended amounts of fertilizer uniformly over a prescribed area. Q.-Is it true that plants grown with organic fertilizers are more resistant to pests than plants grown with commercial ferti- lizers? Plants receiving their nutrients in the proper amounts and pro- portion from either organic or commercial fertilizer sources are equally thrifty and resistant to pests.  58 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 58 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 58 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-What are nutritional sprays? These are sprays containing one or more of the necessary plant nutrients. Nutritional sprays are applied over the foliage of the plant. Q.-After I apply fertilizers to my plants, some of the leaf tips turn brown. What is the cause of this? This is known as tip burn. The brown tips are caused by too high a concentration of soluble salts in the soil solution. Too much of any kind of fertilizer can cause tip burn in plants. Q.-Is there a special way to fertilize gladioli? Yes. Gladioli require special care in fertilizing. Generally, they are fertilized after flowering to furnish plant food elements to be stored in the corm for the following year's growth. Young bulbs require more fertilizer than older bulbs. Q.-Should'rte fertilizer be placed as near as possible to the seed or plant? Never. This is a sure way of preventing germination of seeds and killing plants. Q.-The fertilizer I use seems to make my flowering plants grow vegetatively and not bloom. What is wrong? Either your soil is already high in available nitrogen or the fer- tilizer you are using has too high a content of nitrogen in relation to phosphorus and potassium. A combination of both, high nitro- gen soil and high nitrogen fertilizer, can cause excessive vegeta- tive growth of certain plants. Q.-How can I reduce the cost of fertilizer application for my garden? There are several short cuts in which you may reduce the cost of fertilizer application. Some of them are: 1. Use split applications of the basic fertilizer recommendation. 2. Use no more than the recommended amount. 3. Use high analysis fertilizer of the same ratio. Q.-What are nutritional sprays? These are sprays containing one or more of the necessary plant nutrients. Nutritional sprays are applied over the foliage of the plant. Q.-After I apply fertilizers to my plants, some of the leaf tips turn brown. What is the cause of this? This is known as tip burn. The brown tips are caused by too high a concentration of soluble salts in the soil solution. Too much of any kind of fertilizer can cause tip burn in plants. Q.-Is there a special way to fertilize gladioli? Yes. Gladioli require special care in fertilizing. Generally, they are fertilized after flowering to furnish plant food elements to be stored in the corm for the following year's growth. Young bulbs require more fertilizer than older bulbs. Q.-Should the fertilizer be placed as near as possible to the seed or plant? Never. This is a sure way of preventing germination of seeds and killing plants. Q.-The fertilizer I use seems to make my flowering plants grow vegetatively and not bloom. What is wrong? Either your soil is already high in available nitrogen or the fer- tilizer you are using has too high a content of nitrogen in relation to phosphorus and potassium. A combination of both, high nitro- gen soil and high nitrogen fertilizer, can cause excessive vegeta- tive growth of certain plants. Q.-How can I reduce the cost of fertilizer application for my garden? There are several short cuts in which you may reduce the cost of fertilizer application. Some of them are: 1. Use split applications of the basic fertilizer recommendation. 2. Use no more than the recommended amount. 3. Use high analysis fertilizer of the same ratio. Q.-What are nutritional sprays? These are sprays containing one or more of the necessary plant nutrients. Nutritional sprays are applied over the foliage of the plant. Q.-After I apply fertilizers to my plants, some of the leaf tips turn brown. What is the cause of this? This is known as tip burn. The brown tips are caused by too high a concentration of soluble salts in the soil solution. Too much of any kind of fertilizer can cause tip burn in plants. Q.-Is there a special way to fertilize gladioli? Yes. Gladioli require special care in fertilizing. Generally, they are fertilized after flowering to furnish plant food elements to be stored in the corm for the following year's growth. Young bulbs require more fertilizer than older bulbs. Q.-Shouldthe fertilizer be placed as near as possible to the seed or plant? Never. This is a sure way of preventing germination of seeds and killing plants. Q.-The fertilizer I use seems to make my flowering plants grow vegetatively and not bloom. What is wrong? Either your soil is already high in available nitrogen or the fer- tilizer you are using has too high a content of nitrogen in relation to phosphorus and potassium. A combination of both, high nitro- gen soil and high nitrogen fertilizer, can cause excessive vegeta- tive growth of certain plants. Q.-How can I reduce the cost of fertilizer application for my garden? There are several short cuts in which you may reduce the cost of fertilizer application. Some of them are: 1. Use split applications of the basic fertilizer recommendation. 2. Use no more than the recommended amount. 3. Use high analysis fertilizer of the same ratio.  FERTILITY 59 FERTILITY 59 FERTILITY 59 4. Grow a recommended legume as a green manure crop. 5. Apply the mixed fertilizer in bands on each side of the row rather than by broadcasting. Q.-My pecan trees are dying in part of my grove, yet all of the land seems well drained. What is wrong? This is a typical condition in areas where some form of hardpan exists in the soil. Some soils may have a deep hardpan in one section of the pecan grove and a shallow hardpan in another part of the grove. Pecan trees need 3 ft. or more of well-drained soil in which the root system can easily penetrate. When the hardpan is close to the surface, the pecan trees gradually die. Q.-I note the fine stand of clover along the roadside. Is this due to the kind of soil it is growing in? The good stands of clover found growing wild along the road- sides in the spring of the year are due to several factors. Finer- textured soils help, but the favorable moisture conditions and the abundant supply of lime from the road bed probably have most to do with the growth of this clover. Q.-Do tin cans injure the roots of plants growing in them? There is no evidence to show that the steel and tin coverings of cans have any harmful effects on plants of any kind. Q.-How do I keep my garden soil from packing? Frequent shallow cultivation around your plants should keep the topsoil loose and well aerated. If the garden is to be left fallow for any length of time, it should have a suitable legume cover crop growing in the soil. The cover crop will protect the surface against beating rains and prevent packing. Q.-Do weed killers leave residues in the soil? Only for short periods of time. The directions on the container indicate the residual effect of the specific weed killer. Q.-Is it necessary to cultivate the soil in a heavily-mulched flower bed? 4. Grow a recommended legume as a green manure crop. 5. Apply the mixed fertilizer in bands on each side of the row rather than by broadcasting. Q.-My pecan trees are dying in part of my grove, yet all of the land seems well drained. What is wrong? This is a typical condition in areas where some form of hardpan exists in the soil. Some soils may have a deep hardpan in one section of the pecan grove and a shallow hardpan in another part of the grove. Pecan trees need 3 ft. or more of well-drained soil in which the root system can easily penetrate. When the hardpan is close to the surface, the pecan trees gradually die. Q.-I note the fine stand of clover along the roadside. Is this due to the kind of soil it is growing in? The good stands of clover found growing wild along the road- sides in the spring of the year are due to several factors. Finer- textured soils help, but the favorable moisture conditions and the abundant supply of lime from the road bed probably have most to do with the growth of this clover. Q.-Do tin cans injure the roots of plants growing in them? There is no evidence to show that the steel and tin coverings of cans have any harmful effects on plants of any kind. Q.-How do I keep my garden soil from packing? Frequent shallow cultivation around your plants should keep the topsoil loose and well aerated. If the garden is to be left fallow for any length of time, it should have a suitable legume cover crop growing in the soil. The cover crop will protect the surface against beating rains and prevent packing. Q.-Do weed killers leave residues in the soil? Only for short periods of time. The directions on the container indicate the residual effect of the specific weed killer. Q.-Is it necessary to cultivate the soil in a heavily-mulched flower bed? 4. Grow a recommended legume as a green manure crop. 5. Apply the mixed fertilizer in bands on each side of the row rather than by broadcasting. Q.-My pecan trees are dying in part of my grove, yet all of the land seems well drained. What is wrong? This is a typical condition in areas where some form of hardpan exists in the soil. Some soils may have a deep hardpan in one section of the pecan grove and a shallow hardpan in another part of the grove. Pecan trees need 3 ft. or more of well-drained soil in which the root system can easily penetrate. When the hardpan is close to the surface, the pecan trees gradually die. Q.-I note the flne stand of clover along the roadside. Is this due to the kind of soil it is growing in? The good stands of clover found growing wild along the road- sides in the spring of the year are due to several factors. Finer- textured soils help, but the favorable moisture conditions and the abundant supply of lime from the road bed probably have most to do with the growth of this clover. Q.-Do tin cans injure the roots of plants growing in them? There is no evidence to show that the steel and tin coverings of cans have any harmful effects on plants of any kind. Q.-How do I keep my garden soil from packing? Frequent shallow cultivation around your plants should keep the topsoil loose and well aerated. If the garden is to be left fallow for any length of time, it should have a suitable legume cover crop growing in the soil. The cover crop will protect the surface against beating rains and prevent packing. Q.-Do weed killers leave residues in the soil? Only for short periods of time. The directions on the container indicate the residual effect of the specific weed killer. Q.-Is it necessary to cultivate the soil in a heavily-mulched flower bed?  60 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 60 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs 60 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Very little cultivation is necessary in a heavily-mulched flower bed. A heavy mulch not only protects the surface soil from beat- ing raindrops but also adds to the organic matter of the soil on decomposition. Both of these factors help to keep the soil porous and well aerated. Cultivation may be necessary where weed growth has encroached on a mulched flower bed. Q.-Should farm manure be used in garden soils? Farm manure is excellent for garden soils. Fresh farm manure should be worked into the soil well ahead of planting. Q.-What do I use and how do I fertilize palm trees? Use a common vegetable fertilizer such as a 4-8-8 with tM or more of the nitrogen in organic form. If the palms are planted in open ground, broadcast the fertilizer under the spread of leaves. If they are planted in the lawn, then plug the fertilizer in by making holes around the tree with a crowbar and filling the holes vgh fertilizer. The amounts of mixed fertilizer may be as small as 1 lb. per tree for young palms to 20 lbs. per tree for large palms. Q.-How many essential nutrient elements are known to be needed by growing plants? Sixteen essential nutrient elements are now known to be needed for normal plant growth. They are listed as follows: MAJOR ELEMENTS MINOR ELEMENTS Nitrogen Hydrogen Iron Phosphorus Oxygen Manganese Potassium Copper Calcium Boron Magnesium Zinc Sulfur Molybdenum Carbon Chlorine Q.-Why do most hydroponic tomatoes seem firmer than those grown in the soil? Potassium is the plant food element that has a hardening effect Very little cultivation is necessary in a heavily-mulched flower bed. A heavy mulch not only protects the surface soil from beat- ing raindrops but also adds to the organic matter of the soil on decomposition. Both of these factors help to keep the soil porous and well aerated. Cultivation may be necessary where weed growth has encroached on a mulched flower bed. Q.-Should farm manure be used in garden soils? Farm manure is excellent for garden soils. Fresh farm manure should be worked into the soil well ahead of planting. Q.-What do I use and how do I fertilize palm trees? Use a common vegetable fertilizer such as a 4-8-8 with t/ or more of the nitrogen in organic form. If the palms are planted in open ground, broadcast the fertilizer under the spread of leaves. If they are planted in the lawn, then plug the fertilizer in by making holes around the tree with a crowbar and filling the holes vkth fertilizer. The amounts of mixed fertilizer may be as small as 1 lb. per tree for young palms to 20 lbs. per tree for large palms. Q.-How many essential nutrient elements are known to be needed by growing plants? Sixteen essential nutrient elements are now known to be needed for normal plant growth. They are listed as follows: MAJOR ELEMENTS MINOR ELEMENTS Nitrogen Hydrogen Iron Phosphorus Oxygen Manganese Potassium Copper Calcium Boron Magnesium Zinc Sulfur Molybdenum Carbon Chlorine Q.-Why do most hydroponic tomatoes seem firmer than those grown in the soil? Potassium is the plant food element that has a hardening effect Very little cultivation is necessary in a heavily-mulched flower bed. A heavy mulch not only protects the surface soil from beat- ing raindrops but also adds to the organic matter of the soil on decomposition. Both of these factors help to keep the soil porous and well aerated. Cultivation may be necessary where weed growth has encroached on a mulched flower bed. Q.-Should farm manure be used in garden soils? Farm manure is excellent for garden soils. Fresh farm manure should be worked into the soil well ahead of planting. Q.-What do I use and how do I fertilize palm trees? Use a common vegetable fertilizer such as a 4-8-8 with tM or more of the nitrogen in organic form. If the pahns are planted in open ground, broadcast the fertilizer under the spread of leaves. If they art planted in the lawn, then plug the fertilizer in by making holes around the tree with a crowbar and filling the holes 4h fertilizer. The amounts of mixed fertilizer may be as small as 1 lb. per tree for young palms to 20 lbs. per tree for large palms. Q.-How many essential nutrient elements are known to be needed by growing plants? Sixteen essential nutrient elements are now known to be needed for normal plant growth. They are listed as follows: MAJOR ELEMENTS MINOR ELEMENTS Nitrogen Hydrogen Iron Phosphorus Oxygen Manganese Potassium Copper Calcium Boron Magnesium Zinc Sulfur Molybdenum Carbon Chlorine Q.-Why do most hydroponic tomatoes seem firmer than those grown in the soil? Potassium is the plant food element that has a hardening effect  FERTILITY 61 FERTILITY 61 FERTILITY 61 on tomatoes. In a system of controlled growth, such as that used in growing hydroponics, it is a simple matter to keep the potas- sium at high levels in the solution as compared to nitrogen. By doing this, the fruit develops a high ratio of solids to moisture. With proper soil tests, one may do the same with soils. Q.-What plant nutrient tends to cause a plant to mature early in life? High amounts of phosphorus, in relation to other plant nutrients, tend to cause a plant to mature early in life. on tomatoes. In a system of controlled growth, such as that used in growing hydroponics, it is a simple matter to keep the potas- sium at high levels in the solution as compared to nitrogen. By doing this, the fruit develops a high ratio of solids to moisture. With proper soil tests, one may do the same with soils. Q.-What plant nutrient tends to cause a plant to mature early in life? High amounts of phosphorus, in relation to other plant nutrients, tend to cause a plant to mature early in life. on tomatoes. In a system of controlled growth, such as that used in growing hydroponics, it is a simple matter to keep the potas- sium at high levels in the solution as compared to nitrogen. By doing this, the fruit develops a high ratio of solids to moisture. With proper soil tests, one may do the same with soils. Q.-What plant nutrient tends to cause a plant to mature early in life? High amounts of phosphorus, in relation to other plant nutrients, tend to cause a plant to mature early in life.  X FOUR X X FOUR X X FOUR X Organic Matter, Mulches and Composts Q.-Are altrganic soils sour? No, not all organic soils are sour. Florida has many acres of organic soils that are resting on marine limestone. These soils have a very high content of calcium and magnesium and are called sweet soils. These soils range from pH 6 to pH 7. When organic soils are not influenced by limestone deposits, they are very acid. Q.-Of what importance is humus? Humus is a part of a true soil and has a tremendous influence on the growth of plants. A few of the beneficial effects of soil humus are as follows: 1. Benefits both the texture and structure of the mineral soil. 2. Supplies a large part of the nitrogen and phosphorus that plants need for growth. 3. Helps maintain uniform soil temperatures. 4. Increases the moisture retention of the soil. 5. Makes other essential elements more available to plants. 6. Allows for rapid infiltration of rain water. 62 Organic Matter, Mulches and Composts Q.-Are alorganic soils sour? No, not all organic soils are sour. Florida has many acres of organic soils that are resting on marine limestone. These soils have a very high content of calcium and magnesium and are called sweet soils. These soils range from pH 6 to pH 7. When organic soils are not influenced by limestone deposits, they are very acid. Q.-Of what importance is humus? Humus is a part of a true soil and has a tremendous influence on the growth of plants. A few of the beneficial effects of soil humus are as follows: 1. Benefits both the texture and structure of the mineral soil. 2. Supplies a large part of the nitrogen and phosphorus that plants need for growth. 3. Helps maintain uniform soil temperatures. 4. Increases the moisture retention of the soil. 5. Makes other essential elements more available to plants. 6. Allows for rapid infiltration of rain water. 62 Organic Matter, Mulches and Composts Q.-Are alt ganic soils sour? No, not all organic soils are sour. Florida has many acres of organic soils that are resting on marine limestone. These soils have a very high content of calcium and magnesium and are called sweet soils. These soils range from pH 6 to pH 7. When organic soils are not influenced by limestone deposits, they are very acid. Q.-Of what importance is humus? Humus is a part of a true soil and has a tremendous influence on the growth of plants. A few of the beneficial effects of soil humus are as follows: 1. Benefits both the texture and structure of the mineral soil. 2. Supplies a large part of the nitrogen and phosphorus that plants need for growth. 3. Helps maintain uniform soil temperatures. 4. Increases the moisture retention of the soil. 5. Makes other essential elements more available to plants. 6. Allows for rapid infiltration of rain water. 62  ORGANIC MATTER 63 Q.-What is the main source of organic matter in Florida soils? The green mass of vegetation that covers Florida soils is the main source. The amount of organic matter that accumulates will de- pend on environmental factors such as air, water, temperature, kind of soil, and kind and amount of vegetation. Q.-Will a mulch increase soil acidity? This will depend on the kind of mulch and depth to which it is mixed with the soil. Very acid peats or mucks, when used as a mulch, may cause the soil acidity near the surface to become slightly more acid. The average leaf and pine needle mulch does not affect the soil acidity to any degree, due to the rapid break- down of the weak, organic acids as they enter the soil. Soils are good buffers; it takes definite quantities of relatively strong acids or bases to change their reaction to any degrte. Q.-Does a mulch supply any plant food nutrients After a mulch begins to decay, it will start to ;upply several valuable plant food nutrients. The most important is nitrogen, with some potassium and phosphorus, as well as calcium and magnesium. Some sulfur and minor elements can also be ex- pected to be liberated from the 'more completely decomposed portion of a mulch. Additional commercial fertilizer should be applied to plants according to directions. The amounts of plant food nutrients supplied by a decomposing mulch are generally insufficient for normal plant growth. Q.-Is it true that sawdust makes the soil very acid? Work done by Allison and Anderson of the Agricultural Research Service, United States Department of Agriculture, Beltsville, Maryland, shows that the effect of sawdust on soil acidity is of minor importance. The slight effect of adding acids to the soil is due to the initially weak acidity of the fresh sawdust rather than to accumulation of organic acids caused by normal decom- position. For most plants, it may be advisable to add tM lb. of fine limestone to each bushel of fresh sawdust applied. ORGANIC MATTER 63 Q.-What is the main source of organic matter in Florida soils? The green mass of vegetation that covers Florida soils is the main source. The amount of organic matter that accumulates will de- pend on environmental factors such as air, water, temperature, kind of soil, and kind and amount of vegetation. Q.-Will a mulch increase soil acidity? This will depend on the kind of mulch and depth to which it is mixed with the soil. Very acid peats or mucks, when used as a mulch, may cause the soil acidity near the surface to become slightly more acid. The average leaf and pine needle mulch does not affect the soil acidity to any degree, due to the rapid break- down of the weak, organic acids as they enter the soil. Soils are good buffers; it takes definite quantities of relatively strong acids or bases to change their reaction to any degree. Q.-Does a mulch supply any plant food nutrients . After a mulch begins to decay, it will start to iapply several valuable plant food nutrients. The most important is nitrogen, with some potassium and phosphorus, as well as calcium and magnesium. Some sulfur and minor elements can also be ex- pected to be liberated from the "more completely decomposed portion of a mulch. Additional commercial fertilizer should be applied to plants according to directions. The amounts of plant food nutrients supplied by a decomposing mulch are generally insufficient for normal plant growth. Q.-Is it true that sawdust makes the soil very acid? Work done by Allison and Anderson of the Agricultural Research Service, United States Department of Agriculture, Beltsville, Maryland, shows that the effect of sawdust on soil acidity is of minor importance. The slight effect of adding acids to the soil is due to the initially weak acidity of the fresh sawdust rather than to accumulation of organic acids caused by normal decom- position. For most plants, it may be advisable to add tM lb. of fine limestone to each bushel of fresh sawdust applied. ORGANIC MATTER 63 Q.-What is the main source of organic matter in Florida soils? The green mass of vegetation that covers Florida soils is the main source. The amount of organic matter that accumulates will de- pend on environmental factors such as air, water, temperature, kind of soil, and kind and amount of vegetation. Q.-Will a mulch increase soil acidity? This will depend on the kind of mulch and depth to which it is mixed with the soil. Very acid peats or mucks, when used as a mulch, may cause the soil acidity near the surface to become slightly more acid. The average leaf and pine needle mulch does not affect the soil acidity to any degree, due to the rapid break- down of the weak, organic acids as they enter the soil. Soils are good buffers; it takes definite quantities of relatively strong acids or bases to change their reaction to any degree. Q.-Does a mulch supply any plant food nutrients? After a mulch begins to decay, it will start to 'supply several valuable plant food nutrients. The most important is nitrogen, with some potassium and phosphorus, as well as calcium and magnesium. Some sulfur and minor elements can also be ex- pected to be liberated from the "more completely decomposed portion of a mulch. Additional commercial fertilizer should be applied to plants according to directions. The amounts of plant food nutrients supplied by a decomposing mulch are generally insufficient for normal plant growth. Q.-Is it true that sawdust makes the soil very acid? Work done by Allison and Anderson of the Agricultural Research Service, United States Department of Agriculture, Beltsville, Maryland, shows that the effect of sawdust on soil acidity is of minor importance. The slight effect of adding acids to the soil is due to the initially weak acidity of the fresh sawdust rather than to accumulation of organic acids caused by normal decom- position. For most plants, it may be advisable to add Ma lb. of fine limestone to each bushel of fresh sawdust applied.  COMPOST BIN MADE OF CEDAR TWO BY FOURS COMPOST BIN MADE OF CEDAR TWO BY FOURS COMPOST BIN MADE OF CEDAR TWO BY FOURS 1/2" STEEL REINFORCING BARS THROUGH GROUND) MAY BE EASILY REMOVED FOR COMPOST HEAP. I/2" STEEL REINFORCING BARS THROUGH GROUND) MAY BE EASILY REMOVED FOR COMPOST HEAR A PRACTICAL COMPOST BIN L SELECT A SHADY SPOT TO BUILD THE COMPOST BIN. 2. WITH EACH BUSHEL OF PLANT MATERIAL MIX THREE CUPS OF A 4-7-5 FERTILIZER AND 2/3 CUP OF INELY GROUND LIMESTONE. 3. KEEP WELL AERATED AND MOIST BUT NOT WET. 4. IF THE COMPOST HEATS UP, FORK IT OVER TO ALLOW THE HEAT AND EXCESS CARBON DIOXIDE TO ESCAPE. A PRACTICAL COMPOST BIN L SELECT A SHADY SPOT TO BUILD THE COMPOST BIN. 2. WITH EACH BUSHEL OF PLANT MATERIAL MIX THREE CUPS OF A 4-7.5 FERTILIZER AND 2/3 CUP OF INELY GROUND LIMESTONE. 3. KEEP WELL AERATED AND MOIST BUT NOT WET- 4. IF THE COMPOST HEATS UP, FORK IT OVER TO ALLOW THE HEAT AND EXCESS CARBON DIOXIDE TO ESCAPE. 1/2" STEEL REINFORCING BARS THROUGH ALL 2"X4" 'S IAND INTO THE GROUND) MAY BE EASILY REMOVED FOR CONVENIENT ACCESS TO COMPOST HEAR A PRACTICAL COMPOST BIN . SELECT A SHADY SPOT TO BUILD THE COMPOST BIN. 2. WITH EACH BUSHEL OF PLANT MATERIAL5 MIX THREE CUPS OF A 4-T-5 FERTILIZER AND 2/3 CUP OF 1'INELY GROUND LIMESTONE. 3. KEEP WELL AERATED AND MOIST BUT NOT WET. 4. IF THE COMPOST HEATS UP, FORK IT OVER TO ALLOW THE HEAT AND EXCESS CARBON DIOXIDE TO ESCAPE.  ORGANIC MATTER 65 Q.-Will sawdust make a good mulch? According to work done by the United States Department of Agriculture, sawdust makes a good mulch if properly treated. With each bushel of loose sawdust, mix lb. of sulfate of ammonia and lb. of fine limestone prior to application. After one month, sprinkle another lb. of sulfate of ammonia over the same amount of sawdust to take care of leaching and biotic use. Q.-How is a satisfactory compost heap made? See the illustration and formula in this chapter. In addition to the formula given with the illustration and construction of the bin, the compost heap may be improved somewhat by placing the treated plant material in layers as follows: A layer of treated plant residue 12 in. thick followed by a 1-in. layer of cow manure or black garden soil. These layers are continued until the bin is full. Q.-What is a good formula for speeding up the roting process of a compost heap? A simple formula is to mix thoroughly with 1 bu. of plant material, 3 cups of a 4-7-5 or sinilar mixed fertilizer, 2M3 cup of finely ground limestone, or 1 to 2 cups of wood ashes. The addition of a little well-rotted cow manure will also hasten the decomposition of the plant material in the compost heap. Q.-Can I make compost with leaves only? Leaves make an excellent compost. Since leaves are low in nitro- gen, they should receive the generally recommended treatment for any carbonaceous material. See the question on how to make a compost pile, above, for details on supplemental treatment. Q.-Why is the lower part of my garden soil black in color and the higher part yellow in color? In the lower part of the garden, the water table is nearer the surface. During some months of the year in the lower levels, it may be very near the surface. These wet soils are less aerated ORGANIC MATTER 65 Q.-Will sawdust make a good mulch? According to work done by the United States Department of Agriculture, sawdust makes a good mulch if properly treated. With each bushel of loose sawdust, mix lb. of sulfate of ammonia and lb. of fine limestone prior to application. After one month, sprinkle another lb. of sulfate of ammonia over the same amount of sawdust to take care of leaching and biotic use. Q.-How is a satisfactory compost heap made? See the illustration and formula in this chapter. In addition to the formula given with the illustration and construction of the bin, the compost heap may be improved somewhat by placing the treated plant material in layers as follows: A layer of treated plant residue 12 in. thick followed by a 1-in. layer of cow manure or black garden soil. These layers are continued until the bin is full. Q.-What is a good formula for speeding up the rotting process of a compost heap? A simple formula is to mix thoroughly with 1 bu. of plant material, 3 cups of a 4-7-5 or similar mixed fertilizer, 3 cup of finely ground limestone, or 1 to 2 cups of wood ashes. The addition of a little well-rotted cow manure will also hasten the decomposition of the plant material in the compost heap. Q.-Can I make compost with leaves only? Leaves make an excellent compost. Since leaves are low in nitro- gen, they should receive the generally recommended treatment for any carbonaceous material. See the question on how to make a compost pile, above, for details on supplemental treatment. Q.-Why is the lower part of my garden soil black in color and the higher part yellow in color? In the lower part of the garden, the water table is nearer the surface. During some months of the year in the lower levels, it may be very near the surface. These wet soils are less aerated ORGANIC MATTER 65 Q.-Will sawdust make a good mulch? According to work done by the United States Department of Agriculture, sawdust makes a good mulch if properly treated. With each bushel of loose sawdust, mix % lb. of sulfate of ammonia and % lb. of fine limestone prior to application. After one month, sprinkle another M lb. of sulfate of ammonia over the same amount of sawdust to take care of leaching and biotic use. Q.-How is a satisfactory compost heap made? See the illustration and formula in this chapter. In addition to the formula given with the illustration and construction of the bin, the compost heap may be improved somewhat by placing the treated plant material in layers as follows: A layer of treated plant residue 12 in. thick followed by a 1-in, layer of cow manure or black garden soil. These layers are continued until the bin is full. Q.-What is a good formula for speeding up the rotting process of a compost heap? A simple formula is to mix thoroughly with 1 bu. of plant material, 3 cups of a 4-7-5 or similar mixed fertilizer, 3 cup of finely ground limestone, or 1 to 2 cups of wood ashes. The addition of a little well-rotted cow manure will also hasten the decomposition of the plant material in the compost heap. Q.-Can I make compost with leaves only? Leaves make an excellent compost. Since leaves are low in nitro- gen, they should receive the generally recommended treatment for any carbonaceous material. See the question on how to make a compost pile, above, for details on supplemental treatment. Q.-Why is the lower part of my garden soil black in color and the higher part yellow in color? In the lower part of the garden, the water table is nearer the surface. During some months of the year in the lower levels, it may be very near the surface. These wet soils are less aerated  25% PEAT 25% LOAM , 25% SAND 25% CRACKED CHARCOAL A SUPERIOR POTTING MIX 25% LOAM 25% SAND 25% CRACKED CHARCOAL A SUPERIOR POTTING MIX 25% PEAT" 25% LOAM * 25% SAND 25% CRACED CHARCOAL A SUPERIOR POTTING MIX  ORGANIC MATTER 67 ORGANIC MATTER 67 ORGANIC MATTER 67 than the well-drained soil occupying the slopes. Being less aerated greatly inhibits the oxidation and subsequent loss of organic matter. The black color in the lower part of your garden is an accumulation of soil organic matter due to the higher water table. The yellow color is hydrated iron oxide with very little organic matter to mask it. Q.-Are the roots of plants considered as crop residue? Do they help my garden soil? Roots of plants are excellent crop residues. There are several important ways that plant roots help your garden. They may be listed as follows: 1. The decay of plant roots helps maintain the organic matter content of the soil. 2. Desirable soil structure is aided by the presence of both live and dead plant roots. 3. Infiltration of rain and aeration are promoted by both live and dead plant roots in the soil. Q.-What is a good potting soil mixture? In order to supply the necessary colloidal material and slowly available nitrogen, a good potting mixture should include a high percentage of organic matter. The mixture should hold moisture well, yet be porous enough to allow good aeration and drainage. A recommended mixture is % loam, peat, sand, and % cracked charcoal. A small amount of mixed fertilizer blended in with the above ingredients will improve and balance its nutrient content. Q.-How can I build up the organic matter content of my garden soil? In Florida, with its favorable year around climate, it is very difficult to build up the organic matter content of a properly- drained garden soil. However, organic matter can be maintained by selecting and planting certain legumes during off seasons. These green manure crops, as well as other plant residues, are than the well-drained soil occupying the slopes. Being less aerated greatly inhibits the oxidation and subsequent loss of organic matter. The black color in the lower part of your garden is an accumulation of soil organic matter due to the higher water table. The yellow color is hydrated iron oxide with very little organic matter to mask it. Q.-Are the roots of plants considered as crop residue? Do they help my garden soil? Roots of plants are excellent crop residues. There are several important ways that plant roots help your garden. They may be listed as follows: 1. The decay of plant roots helps maintain the organic matter content of the soil. 2. Desirable soil structure is aided by the presence of both live and dead plant roots. 3. Infiltration of rain and aeration are promoted by both live and dead plant roots in the soil. Q.-What is a good potting soil mixture? In order to supply the necessary colloidal material and slowly available nitrogen, a good potting mixture should include a high percentage of organic matter. The mixture should hold moisture well, yet be porous enough to allow good aeration and drainage. A recommended mixture is loam, peat, sand, and W cracked charcoal. A small amount of mixed fertilizer blended in with the above ingredients will improve and balance its nutrient content. Q.-How can I build up the organic matter content of my garden soil? In Florida, with its favorable year around climate, it is very difficult to build up the organic matter content of a properly- drained garden soil. However, organic matter can be maintained by selecting and planting certain legumes during off seasons. These green manure crops, as well as other plant residues, are than the well-drained soil occupying the slopes. Being less aerated greatly inhibits the oxidation and subsequent loss of organic matter. The black color in the lower part of your garden is an accumulation of soil organic matter due to the higher water table. The yellow color is hydrated iron oxide with very little organic matter to mask it. Q.-Are the roots of plants considered as crop residue? Do they help my garden soil? Roots of plants are excellent crop residues. There are several important ways that plant roots help your garden. They may be listed as follows: 1. The decay of plant roots helps maintain the organic matter content of the soil. 2. Desirable soil structure is aided by the presence of both live and dead plant roots. 3. Infiltration of rain and aeration are promoted by'both live and dead plant roots in the soil. Q.-What is a good potting soil mixture? In order to supply the necessary colloidal material and slowly available nitrogen, a good potting mixture should include a high percentage of organic matter. The mixture should hold moisture well, yet be porous enough to allow good aeration and drainage. A recommended mixture is loam, peat, sand, and cracked charcoal. A small amount of mixed fertilizer blended in with the above ingredients will improve and balance its nutrient content. Q.-How can I build up the organic matter content of my garden soil? In Florida, with its favorable year around climate, it is very difficult to build up the organic matter content of a properly- drained garden soil. However, organic matter can be maintained by selecting and planting certain legumes during off seasons. These green manure crops, as well as other plant residues, are  68 YouR FLORIDA GARDEN SoILS 68 YouR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 68 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS turned into the soil, where they decay and replenish the existing organic matter. Q.-Is it better to put a good grade of peaty-muck on a lawn before or after it is established? Too many disappointing lawns are begun without the proper preparation of soil. It is better to mix a good grade of peaty-muck in the top 2 or 3 in. of the mineral soil before seeding or sprig- ging. At this time, it is also advisable to take care of fertilizer, lime, and drainage needs. However, if a lawn is started and it is found that the soil is too light and not holding water or nutrients, it is still beneficial to work a good grade of peaty-muck into the grass sod. Q.-What causes humus to form in the soil? Humus is made up of the decomposed remains of plant and animal l4(e. This includes mainly the macroorganisms and micro- organisms of the soil plus the plant residues at the surface. Both of these, soil organisms and plant residues are necessary to main- tain the total organic matter content of the soil in Florida. When grass and leaves are burned, they are prevented from returning to the soil to augment the humus content of the surface layer. Nature is still the best provider. Q.-What makes a compost pile shrink so much? While a compost pile is shrinking, it is gaining rapidly in unit weight. There are several reasons why a compost heap reduces size during decomposition. The principal one is the tremendous loss of carbon in the form of the gas, carbon dioxide. The microbes that are decomposing a compost heap need carbon as a source of energy. They get it by decomposing and breaking down the complex organic material in the compost heap. In the process, the physical properties of the compost change from coarse, dry material to a more finely divided, moist, spongy mass, which has a tendency to become compact, thus reducing the size of the pile. turned into the soil, where they decay and replenish the existing organic matter. Q.-Is it better to put a good grade of peaty-muck on a lawn before or after it is established? Too many disappointing lawns are begun without the proper preparation of soil. It is better to mix a good grade of peaty-muck in the top 2 or 3 in. of the mineral soil before seeding or sprig- ging. At this time, it is also advisable to take care of fertilizer, lime, and drainage needs. However, if a lawn is started and it is found that the soil is too light and not holding water or nutrients, it is still beneficial to work a good grade of peaty-muck into the grass sod. Q.-What causes humus to form in the soil? Humus is made up of the decomposed remains of plant and animal 14e. This includes mainly the macroorganisms and micro- organisms of the soil plus the plant residues at the surface. Both of these, soil organisms and plant residues are necessary to main- tain the total organic matter content of the soil in Florida. When grass and leaves are burned, they are prevented from returning to the soil to augment the humus content of the surface layer. Nature is still the best provider. Q.-What makes a compost pile shrink so much? While a compost pile is shrinking, it is gaining rapidly in unit weight. There are several reasons why a compost heap reduces size during decomposition. The principal one is the tremendous loss of carbon in the form of the gas, carbon dioxide. The microbes that are decomposing a compost heap need carbon as a source of energy. They get it by decomposing and breaking down the complex organic material in the compost heap. In the process, the physical properties of the compost change from coarse, dry material to a more finely divided, moist, spongy mass, which has a tendency to become compact, thus reducing the size of the pile. turned into the soil, where they decay and replenish the existing organic matter. Q.-Is it better to put a good grade of peaty-muck on a lawn before or after it is established? Too many disappointing lawns are begun without the proper preparation of soil. It is better to mix a good grade of peaty-much in the top 2 or 3 in. of the mineral soil before seeding or sprig- ging. At this time, it is also advisable to take care of fertilizer, lime, and drainage needs. However, if a lawn is started and it is found that the soil is too light and not holding water or nutrients, it is still beneficial to work a good grade of peaty-muck into the grass sod. Q.-What causes humus to form in the soil? Humus is made up of the decomposed remains of plant and animal MIe. This includes mainly the macroorganisms and micro- organisms of the soil plus the plant residues at the surface. Both of these, soil organisms and plant residues are necessary to main- tain the total organic matter content of the soil in Florida. When grass and leaves are burned, they are prevented from returning to the soil to augment the humus content of the surface layer. Nature is still the best provider. Q.-What makes a compost pile shrink so much? While a compost pile is shrinking, it is gaining rapidly in unit weight. There are several reasons why a compost heap reduces size during decomposition. The principal one is the tremendous loss of carbon in the form of the gas, carbon dioxide. The microbes that are decomposing a compost heap need carbon as a source of energy. They get it by decomposing and breaking down the complex organic material in the compost heap. In the process, the physical properties of the compost change from coarse, dry material to a more finely divided, moist, spongy mass, which has a tendency to become compact, thus reducing the size of the pile.  ORGANIC MATTER 69 Q.-Which is the most practical way of adding humus to garden soil? Should I grow it, make it, or buy it? Grow it if your garden consists of a quarter acre or more. You can add humus in the form of plant material with a small amount of cost and labor by turning under a green manure crop. See your County Agricultural Agent for literature and information on the best leguminous crop to plant for your area. If the garden spot is only a few hundred square feet, then it may be more feasible to use compost or commercial peat rather than a green manure crop. Q.-Which makes the best mulch: Spanish moss, pine straw, sawdust, or wood shavings? One of the principal attributes of a good mulch is that it must be slow in decomposing, have good physical characteristics, not compete with cultivated plants for plant food elements, and add to the fertility value of the soil on complete decomposition. All of the mulches mentioned may be used, but only pine straw fits all the qualifications mentioned. For example, if some available nitrogen is not added to a sawdust or shavings mulch, organisms decomposing it will compete with cultivated plants for this highly essential element. Q.-I am told that the plant residues that I rake and burn are the materials that cause humus to form in the soil. Is this true? Yes, this is true. When leaves and grass must be raked, they should be added to a good compost heap. The purpose of the mulching attachment on your lawnmower is to pulverize the grass clippings so they will filter back through the sod to help replenish the humus in the soil. Q.-What are the characteristics of a good green manure crop for my garden? There are several characteristics a good green manure crop should possess. Some of them are: 1. It should be a leguminous crop so that nitrogen may be added to the soil. ORGANIC MATTER 69 ORGANIC MATTER 69 Q.-Which is the most practical way of adding humus to garden soil? Should I grow it, make it, or buy it? Grow it if your garden consists of a quarter acre or more. You can add humus in the form of plant material with a small amount of cost and labor by turning under a green manure crop. See your County Agricultural Agent for literature and information on the best leguminous crop to plant for your area. If the garden spot is only a few hundred square feet, then it may be more feasible to use compost or commercial peat rather than a green manure crop. Q.-Which makes the best mulch: Spanish moss, pine straw, sawdust, or wood shavings? One of the principal attributes of a good mulch is that it must be slow in decomposing, have good physical characteristics, not compete with cultivated plants for plant food elements, and add to the fertility value of the soil on complete decomposition. All of the mulches mentioned may be used, but only pine straw fits all the qualifications mentioned. For example, if some available nitrogen is not added to a sawdust or shavings mulch, organisms decomposing it will compete with cultivated plants for this highly essential element. Q.-I am told that the plant residues that I rake and burn are the materials that cause humus to form in the soil. Is this true? Yes, this is true. When leaves and grass must be raked, they should be added to a good compost heap. The purpose of the mulching attachment on your lawnmower is to pulverize the grass clippings so they will filter back through the sod to help replenish the humus in the soil. Q.-What are the characteristics of a good green manure crop for my garden? There are several characteristics a good green manure crop should possess. Some of them are: 1. It should be a leguminous crop so that nitrogen may be added to the soil. Q.-Which is the most practical way of adding humus to garden soil? Should I grow it, make it, or buy it? Grow it if your garden consists of a quarter acre or more. You can add humus in the form of plant material with a small amount of cost and labor by turning under a green manure crop. See your County Agricultural Agent for literature and information on the best leguminous crop to plant for your area. If the garden spot is only a few hundred square feet, then it may be more feasible to use compost or commercial peat rather than a green manure crop. Q.-Which makes the best mulch: Spanish moss, pine straw, sawdust, or wood shavings? One of the principal attributes of a good mulch is that it must be slow in decomposing, have good physical characteristics, not compete with cultivated plants for plant food elements, and add to the fertility value of the soil on complete decomposition. All of the mulches mentioned may be used, but only pine straw fits all the qualifications mentioned. For example, if some available nitrogen is not added to a sawdust or shavings mulch, organisms decomposing it will compete with cultivated plants for this highly essential element. Q.-I am told that the plant residues that I rake and burn are the materials that cause humus to form in the soil. Is this true? Yes, this is true. When leaves and grass must be raked, they should be added to a good compost heap. The purpose of the mulching attachment on your lawnmower is to pulverize the grass clippings so they will filter back through the sod to help replenish the humus in the soil. Q.-What are the characteristics of a good green manure crop for my garden? There are several characteristics a good green manure crop should possess. Some of them are: 1. It should be a leguminous crop so that nitrogen may be added to the soil.  70 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 70 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 70 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. It should yield an abundance of green weight. It should have a deep root system. It should be nontoxic to animals. It should be a good reseeder. It should not encourage nematode development. It should have a good canopy of top growth to protect the surface soil. Q.-What are the influences of organic matter on soil fertility? Some important influences of organic matter on soil fertility are as follows: 1. Helps the soil to retain moisture. 2. Liberates several important plant food elements into the soil. 3. Causes plant food elements in soil minerals to become more available to plants. 4. Makes the soil more porous and allows rain to enter freely. 5. Improves the soil structure so that it can be easily tilled. 6. Helps keep the soil temperature uniform. 7. Causes the soil to warm up earlier in the Spring. Q.-Can I help maintain the organic matter content of my gar- den soil by plowing under weeds and grass? Yes, you can. Under natural conditions, weeds, grass, leaves, and other plant residues are the only means nature has to maintain the soil organic matter content. You can improve on these natural conditions by selecting a recommended legume as a green manure crop and turning it under. Q.-What is the difference between green manure and cover crops? Green manure crops are generally selected leguminous plants grown for the specific purpose of plowing into the soil. Cover crops may be any selected plant grown during off season to protect the surface of the soil from erosion and encourage infil- tration of rain. Cover crops may be used for green manure by turning them into the soil prior to starting a new garden. 2. It should yield an abundance of green weight. 3. It should have a deep root system. 4. It should be nontoxic to animals. 5. It should be a good reseeder. 6. It should not encourage nematode development. 7. It should have a good canopy of top growth to protect the surface soil. Q.-What are the influences of organic matter on soil fertility? Some important influences of organic matter on soil fertility are as follows: 1. Helps the soil to retain moisture. 2. Liberates several important plant food elements into the soil. 3. Causes plant food elements in soil minerals to become more available to plants. 4. Makes the soil more porous and allows rain to enter freely. 5. Improves the soil structure so that it can be easily tilled. 6. Helps keep the soil temperature uniform. 7. Causes the soil to warm up earlier in the Spring. Q.-Can I help maintain the organic matter content of my gar- den soil by plowing under weeds and grass? Yes, you can. Under natural conditions, weeds, grass, leaves, and other plant residues are the only means nature has to maintain the soil organic matter content. You can improve on these natural conditions by selecting a recommended legume as a green manure crop and turning it under. Q.-What is the difference between green manure and cover crops? Green manure crops are generally selected leguminous plants grown for the specific purpose of plowing into the soil. Cover crops may be any selected plant grown during off season to protect the surface of the soil from erosion and encourage infil- tration of rain. Cover crops may be used for green manure by turning them into the soil prior to starting a new garden. 2. It should yield an abundance of green weight. 3. It should have a deep root system. 4. It should be nontoxic to animals. 5. It should be a good reseeder. 6. It should not encourage nematode development. 7. It should have a good canopy of top growth to protect the surface soil. Q.-What are the influences of organic matter on soil fertility? Some important influences of organic matter on soil fertility are as follows: 1. Helps the soil to retain moisture. 2. Liberates several important plant food elements into the soil. 3. Causes plant food elements in soil minerals to become more available to plants. 4. Makes the soil more porous and allows rain to enter freely. 5. Improves the soil structure so that it can be easily tilled. 6. Helps keep the soil temperature uniform. 7. Causes the soil to warm up earlier in the Spring. Q.-Can I help maintain the organic matter content of my gar- den soil by plowing under weeds and grass? Yes, you can. Under natural conditions, weeds, grass, leaves, and other plant residues are the only means nature has to maintain the soil organic matter content. You can improve on these natural conditions by selecting a recommended legume as a green manure crop and turning it under. Q.-What is the difference between green manure and cover crops? Green manure crops are generally selected leguminous plants grown for the specific purpose of plowing into the soil. Cover crops may be any selected plant grown during off season to protect the surface of the soil from erosion and encourage infil- tration of rain. Cover crops may be used for green manure by turning them into the soil prior to starting a new garden.  ORGANIC MATTER 71 ORGANIC MATTER 71 ORGANIC MATTER 71 Q.-My compost heap gives off a bad odor. Is this normal? No, this is not normal but is easily corrected. When too much water has been used on a compost heap, anaerobic conditions exist, such as lack of enough free oxygen. Under these conditions, the anaerobic bacteria liberate end products that have a disagree- able odor. Under ideal conditions of moisture and air, the end products are carbon dioxide and water with little or no odor. An excess of watering is one of the most common errors in com- post heap care. When undesirable odors are detected, the amount of watering should be reduced. Or, if it is during the rainy season, some type of cover should be used to reduce the amount of water entering the heap. Q.-Should I dig a pit in order to start a compost heap? Because of the tendency for material to accumulate in the pit and slow down the decay of the compost material, pits are gen- erally not recommended. It is preferable to pile the compost on flat boards, in a bin above the ground, or flat on the ground. In this fashion, the compost heap is better aerated and it is easier to control moisture conditions. Q.-Could I make a compost heap with the leaves and grass that I spend endless hours raking and burning? The very leaves and grass you rake and burn are the only materials that nature has for making that highly prized dark substance in the surface of all productive soils. Leaves and grass that cannot be mulched and must be removed from the surface of the lawn should be added to a compost heap. Q.-How is it possible to start with one ton of dry material and finish with two or three tons of finished compost material? As the volume of a compost heap decreases, the weight increases. Much of the weight of the finished product is the dead cells of the decayed organisms plus moisture. All of this is a very desir- able part of composting. The plant food in the finished compost is many times greater than in the original plant residues. Also, Q.-My compost heap gives off a bad odor. Is this normal? No, this is not normal but is easily corrected. When too much water has been used on a compost heap, anaerobic conditions exist, such as lack of enough free oxygen. Under these conditions, the anaerobic bacteria liberate end products that have a disagree- able odor. Under ideal conditions of moisture and air, the end products are carbon dioxide and water with little or no odor, An excess of watering is one of the most common errors in com- post heap care. When undesirable odors are detected, the amount of watering should be reduced. Or, if it is during the rainy season, some type of cover should be used to reduce the amount of water entering the heap. Q.-Should I dig a pit in order to start a compost heap? Because of the tendency for material to accumulate in the pit and slow down the decay of the compost material, pits are gen- erally not recommended. It is preferable to pile the compost on flat boards, in a bin above the ground, or fiat on the ground. In this fashion, the compost heap is better aerated and it is easier to control moisture conditions. Q.-Could I make a compost heap with the leaves and grass that I spend endless hours raking and burning? The very leaves and grass you rake and burn are the only materials that nature has for making that highly prized dark substance in the surface of all productive soils. Leaves and grass that cannot be mulched and must be removed from the surface of the lawn should be added to a compost heap. Q.-How is it possible to start with one ton of dry material and finish with two or three tons of finished compost material? As the volume of a compost heap decreases, the weight increases. Much of the weight of the finished product is the dead cells of the decayed organisms plus moisture. All of this is a very desir- able part of composting. The plant food in the finished compost is many times greater than in the original plant residues. Also, Q.-My compost heap gives off a bad odor. Is this normal? No, this is not normal but is easily corrected. When too much water has been used on a compost heap, anaerobic conditions exist, such as lack of enough free oxygen. Under these conditions, the anaerobic bacteria liberate end products that have a disagree- able odor. Under ideal conditions of moisture and air, the end products are carbon dioxide and water with little or no odor. An excess of watering is one of the most common errors in com- post heap care. When undesirable odors are detected, the amount of watering should be reduced. Or, if it is during the rainy season, some type of cover should be used to reduce the amount of water entering the heap. Q.-Should I dig a pit in order to start a compost heap? Because of the tendency for material to accumulate in the pit and slow down the decay of the compost material, pits are gen- erally not recommended. It is preferable to pile the compost on flat boards, in a bin above the ground, or flat on the ground. In this fashion, the compost heap is better aerated and it is easier to control moisture conditions. Q.-Could I make a compost heap with the leaves and grass that I spend endless hours raking and burning? The very leaves and grass you rake and burn are the only materials that nature has for making that highly prized dark substance in the surface of all productive soils. Leaves and grass that cannot be mulched and must be removed from the surface of the lawn should be added to a compost heap. Q.-How is it possible to start with one ton of dry material and finish with two or three tons of finished compost material? As the volume of a compost heap decreases, the weight increases. Much of the weight of the finished product is the dead cells of the decayed organisms plus moisture. All of this is a very desir- able part of composting. The plant food in the finished compost is many times greater than in the original plant residues. Also,  72 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS the physical structure of composted materials is more desirable than that found in the materials that are not composted. Q.-Should fertilizer be added to compost piles? Mixed commercial fertilizer added to a compost pile is beneficial. Fertilizers give an extra amount of plant food nutrients and tend to balance the nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium of the compost heap. The result is a speeding up of decomposition with a superior final product. About 1 cup of a good mixed fertilizer to 1 bu. of plant material should be sufficient to aid in the decomposition process. Q.-Are peanut hulls a good mulch? Peanut hulls make an excellent soil mulch. Besides being a satis- factory mulch, peanut hulls also liberate a fair quantity of potas- sium upon decay. This is one of the essential plant food elements used by plants in large quantities. Q.-What are some forms of organic matter to incorporate into my front yard for better grass? Some well-known organic matter sources and recommended amounts to use are as follows: 1. Granulated peat moss-3 medium-size bales per 1000 sq. ft. 2. Well-rotted cow manure-2 to 3 cu. yds. per 1000 sq. ft. 3. Commercial humus-2 to 3 cu. yds. per 1000 sq. ft. Q.-What is the difference between peat and muck? Peat is composed of partially decomposed plant residues and is brown in color. Muck is well-decomposed plant residues and is black in color. Both are true organic soils and have over 20 per cent of the soil material, by weight, made up of plant residues. Q.-Will the commercial black plastic mulch keep down weed growth? Since light cannot pass through the black plastic, it will keep down weed growth. Weeds need an abundance of light for normal growth. Without it, they cannot compete with cultivated plants. 72 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS the physical structure of composted materials is more desirable than that found in the materials that are not composted. Q.-Should fertilizer be added to compost piles? Mixed commercial fertilizer added to a compost pile is beneficial. Fertilizers give an extra amount of plant food nutrients and tend to balance the nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium of the compost heap. The result is a speeding up of decomposition with a superior final product. About 1 cup of a good mixed fertilizer to 1 bu. of plant material should be sufficient to aid in the decomposition process. Q.-Are peanut hulls a good mulch? Peanut hulls make an excellent soil mulch. Besides being a satis- factory mulch, peanut hulls also liberate a fair quantity of potas- sium upon decay. This is one of the essential plant food elements used by plants in large quantities. Q.-What are some forms of organic matter to incorporate into my front yard for better grass? Some well-known organic matter sources and recommended amounts to use are as follows: 1. Granulated peat moss-3 medium-size bales per 1000 sq. ft. 2. Well-rotted cow manure-2 to 3 cu. yds. per 1000 sq. ft. 3. Commercial humus-2 to 3 cu. yds. per 1000 sq. ft. Q.-What is the difference between peat and muck? Peat is composed of partially decomposed plant residues and is brown in color. Muck is well-decomposed plant residues and is black in color. Both are true organic soils and have over 20 per cent of the soil material, by weight, made up of plant residues. Q.-Will the commercial black plastic mulch keep down weed growth? Since light cannot pass through the black plastic, it will keep down weed growth. Weeds need an abundance of light for normal growth. Without it, they cannot compete with cultivated plants. 72 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS the physical structure of composted materials is more desirable than that found in the materials that are not composted. Q.-Should fertilizer be added to compost piles? Mixed commercial fertilizer added to a compost pile is beneficial. Fertilizers give an extra amount of plant food nutrients and tend to balance the nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium of the compost heap. The result is a speeding up of decomposition with a superior final product. About 1 cup of a good mixed fertilizer to 1 bu. of plant material should be sufficient to aid in the decomposition process. Q.-Are peanut hulls a good mulch? Peanut hulls make an excellent soil mulch. Besides being a satis- factory mulch, peanut hulls also liberate a fair quantity of potas- sium upon decay. This is one of the essential plant food elements used by plants in large quantities. Q.-What are some forms of organic matter to incorporate into my front yard for better grass? Some well-known organic matter sources and recommended amounts to use are as follows: 1. Granulated peat moss-3 medium-size bales per 1000 sq. ft. 2. Well-rotted cow manure-2 to 3 cu. yds. per 1000 sq. ft. 3. Commercial humus-2 to 3 cu. yds. per 1000 sq. ft. Q.-What is the difference between peat and muck? Peat is composed of partially decomposed plant residues and is brown in color. Muck is well-decomposed plant residues and is black in color. Both are true organic soils and have over 20 per cent of the soil material, by weight, made up of plant residues. Q.-Will the commercial black plastic mulch keep down weed growth? Since light cannot pass through the black plastic, it will keep down weed growth. Weeds need an abundance of light for normal growth. Without it, they cannot compete with cultivated plants.  ORGANIC MATTER 73 ORGANIC MATTER 73 ORGANIC MATTER 73 Q.-Will the addition of cow manure to a compost pile hasten its decomposition? The addition of cow manure should hasten the initial stages of decomposition of the compost pile. Cow manure has a naturally abundant flora of cellulose digesting organisms that should act as a good inoculant for the compost heap. Cow manure will also supply some of the nutrients necessary for microbe activity, especially nitrogen. Q.-In a compost heap, will some plant residues decay faster than others? Yes. The rate of decomposition will depend on the kind and age of the plant. Plants that are younger or more succulent in nature will be the first to decay. Your compost heap needs both fast- and slow-decaying plant materials. Q.-What is the difference between humus and organic matter? All humus is organic matter but not all organic matter is humus. Organic matter includes the partially decomposed plant material at the surface of the soil, as well as the well-decomposed plant material that is mixed with the mineral portion of the soil. Humus is generally referred to as stable organic matter; further decay is very slow. It is the material that gives mineral soils a dark brown or black color near the surface. Q.-Will leaves make a good compost heap? Leaves make an excellent compost heap. Treat them just as you would any plant material used for composting. Q.-Is it advisable to incorporate some organic material before trying to establish a garden on light sandy soils? Yes, it is desirable. Any partially decomposed material would be better than none. The better practice would be to grow a very heavy green manure crop, such as blue lupine during the winter, or hairy indigo or cowpeas during the summer, and turn the crop under about one month prior to planting. Be sure to select a variety of legume that is adapted to your area. Q.-Will the addition of cow manure to a compost pile hasten its decomposition? The addition of cow manure should hasten the initial stages of decomposition of the compost pile. Cow manure has a naturally abundant flora of cellulose digesting organisms that should act as a good inoculant for the compost heap. Cow manure will also supply some of the nutrients necessary for microbe activity, especially nitrogen. Q.-In a compost heap, will some plant residues decay faster than others? Yes. The rate of decomposition will depend on the kind and age of the plant. Plants that are younger or more succulent in nature will be the first to decay. Your compost heap needs both fast- and slow-decaying plant materials. Q.-What is the difference between humus and organic matter? All humus is organic matter but not all organic matter is humus. Organic matter includes the partially decomposed plant material at the surface of the soil, as well as the well-decomposed plant material that is mixed with the mineral portion of the soil. Humus is generally referred to as stable organic matter; further decay is very slow. It is the material that gives mineral soils a dark brown or black color near the surface. Q.-Will leaves make a good compost heap? Leaves make an excellent compost heap. Treat them just as you would any plant material used for composting. Q.-Is it advisable to incorporate some organic material before trying to establish a garden on light sandy soils? Yes, it is desirable. Any partially decomposed material would be better than none. The better practice would be to grow a very heavy green manure crop, such as blue lupine during the winter, or hairy indigo or cowpeas during the summer, and turn the crop under about one month prior to planting. Be sure to select a variety of legume that is adapted to your area. Q.-Will the addition of cow manure to a compost pile hasten its decomposition? The addition of cow manure should hasten the initial stages of decomposition of the compost pile. Cow manure has a naturally abundant flora of cellulose digesting organisms that should act as a good inoculant for the compost heap. Cow manure will also supply some of the nutrients necessary for microbe activity, especially nitrogen. Q.-In a compost heap, will some plant residues decay faster than others? Yes. The rate of decomposition will depend on the kind and age of the plant. Plants that are younger or more succulent in nature will be the first to decay. Your compost heap needs both fast- and slow-decaying plant materials. Q.-What is the difference between humus and organic matter? All humus is organic matter but not all organic matter is humus. Organic matter includes the partially decomposed plant material at the surface of the soil, as well as the well-decomposed plant material that is mixed with the mineral portion of the soil. Humus is generally referred to as stable organic matter; further decay is very slow. It is the material that gives mineral soils a dark brown or black color near the surface. Q.-Will leaves make a good compost heap? Leaves make an excellent compost heap. Treat them just as you would any plant material used for composting. Q.-Is it advisable to incorporate some organic material before trying to establish a garden on light sandy soils? Yes, it is desirable. Any partially decomposed material would be better than none. The better practice would be to grow a very heavy green manure crop, such as blue lupine during the winter, or hairy indigo or cowpeas during the summer, and turn the crop under about one month prior to planting. Be sure to select a variety of legume that is adapted to your area.  74 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 74 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 74 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-Is it worth while to spread a layer of muck over my garden? If the garden is small and sandy, it may be helpful to spread 2 or 3 in. of muck over the area. If the muck is strongly acid, it should be treated with lime, or spread and then limed, which- ever is most convenient. The muck should be incorporated with the top 6 in. of soil. Since the muck is already well decomposed, there need not be any waiting period prior to planting. Q.-Will a deep mulch protect plants from cold? This depends on the part of the plant you wish to protect. If only the roots are to be protected, then the mulch under the plant will accomplish this. If the tops are to be protected, then the mulch must cover the whole plant. Q.-I burn every bit of plant residue that I can rake up. Is this good practice? Plant residues are the principal way nature has of adding organic matter to the soil. It would be a much better practice if these plant residues were added to a compost heap, and eventually returned to the soil. Q.-Will a top-dressing of any organic material benefit my lawn? This depends on the condition of the lawn grass. If the grass is growing on a coarse-textured soil low in organic matter, then an application of some well-decomposed peat will be beneficial. The principal purpose of the peat is to aid the soil in holding moisture and slowly to liberate available amounts of nitrogen. The avail- able nitrogen helps to keep the grass a more uniform dark green color. Q.-What are some reasons for composting? A completed compost is synthetic manure. According to Waks- man and Martin of Rutgers University, it is as good as any farm manure. To list all the advantages and reasons for composting would fill a book. However, a few important ones are given: 1. It is one of the best ways of returning organic material to the soil. Q.-Is it worth while to spread a layer of muck over my garden? If the garden is small and sandy, it may be helpful to spread 2 or 3 in. of muck over the area. If the muck is strongly acid, it should be treated with lime, or spread and then limed, which- ever is most convenient. The muck should be incorporated with the top 6 in, of soil. Since the muck is already well decomposed, there need not be any waiting period prior to planting. Q.-Will a deep mulch protect plants from cold? This depends on the part of the plant you wish to protect. If only the roots are to be protected, then the mulch under the plant will accomplish this. If the tops are to be protected, then the mulch must cover the whole plant. Q.-I burn every bit of plant residue that I can rake up. Is this good practice? Plant residues are the principal way nature has of adding organic matter to the soil. It would be a much better practice if these plant residues were added to a compost heap, and eventually returned to the soil. Q.-Will a top-dressing of any organic material benefit my lawn? This depends on the condition of the lawn grass. If the grass is growing on a coarse-textured soil low in organic matter, then an application of some well-decomposed peat will be beneficial. The principal purpose of the peat is to aid the soil in holding moisture and slowly to liberate available amounts of nitrogen. The avail- able nitrogen helps to keep the grass a more uniform dark green color. Q.-What are some reasons for composting? A completed compost is synthetic manure. According to Waks- man and Martin of Rutgers University, it is as good as any farm manure. To list all the advantages and reasons for composting would fill a book. However, a few important ones are given: 1. It is one of the best ways of returning organic material to the soil. Q.-Is it worth while to spread a layer of muck over my garden? If the garden is small and sandy, it may be helpful to spread 2 or 3 in. of muck over the area. If the muck is strongly acid, it should be treated with lime, or spread and then limed, which- ever is most convenient. The muck should be incorporated with the top 6 in. of soil. Since the muck is already well decomposed, there need not be any waiting period prior to planting. Q.-Will a deep mulch protect plants from cold? This depends on the part of the plant you wish to protect. If only the roots are to be protected, then the mulch under the plant will accomplish this. If the tops are to be protected, then the mulch must cover the whole plant. Q.-I burn every bit of plant residue that I can rake up. Is this good practice? Plant residues are the principal way nature has of adding organic matter to the soil. It would be a much better practice if these plant residues were added to a compost heap, and eventually returned to the soil. Q.-Will a top-dressing of any organic material benefit my lawn? This depends on the condition of the lawn grass. If the grass is growing on a coarse-textured soil low in organic matter, then an application of some well-decomposed peat will be beneficial. The principal purpose of the peat is to aid the soil in holding moisture and slowly to liberate available amounts of nitrogen. The avail- able nitrogen helps to keep the grass a more uniform dark green color. Q.-What are some reasons for composting? A completed compost is synthetic manure. According to Waks- man and Martin of Rutgers University, it is as good as any farm manure. To list all the advantages and reasons for composting would fill a book. However, a few important ones are given: 1. It is one of the best ways of returning organic material to the soil.  ORGANIC MATTER 75 2. It adds valuable plant food nutrients to the soil in the form that plants can utilize best. 3. It improves tilth and moisture conditions of the soil. Q.-What materials can I use to make a compost heap? Contrary to many rumors, you can use any plant residue to make a compost. Some common ones are grass clippings, sawdust, leaves, stems, and peanut hulls. Also, green residues such as weeds, nonwoody hedge and shrub trimmings, harvested vines and plants from the vegetable garden, and many other materials may be added. Succulent materials decompose rapidly and, as a result, furnish nutrients for the microorganisms responsible for decomposition, thus speeding the entire process. Q.-Can I use sawdust to add organic matter to soils? In Florida it may be difficult to increase the organic matter in soils. However, it is possible to maintain the organic matter con- tent at a satisfactory level. According to Allison and Anderson of the U.S.D.A., sawdust may be used to maintain the organic matter content of soils. Regardless of the use made of sawdust, it should receive supplemental nitrogen at the rate of 1.5 per cent. This is equivalent to about 150 lbs. of ammonium sulfate per ton of fresh material. If the soil is already too acid, then a supplement of 100 lbs. of fine limestone should also be added to the ton of fresh sawdust. Q.-Should I leave lawn clippings on my lawn? If it is possible to cut up grass clippings fine enough, they should be left on the lawn. Generally, this can be accomplished with a special mulching attachment that comes with most of the newer mowers. The only reason for raking lawn clippings off the lawn is that they may be too thick, thus shading the growing grass underneath. If a lawn is mowed at regular intervals with a mulching attachment, there is no reason for removing clippings. Those that are left filter down into the soil, where they decom- pose and return plant food elements and humus. ORGANIC MATTER 75 2. It adds valuable plant food nutrients to the soil in the form that plants can utilize best. 3. It improves tilth and moisture conditions of the soil. Q.-What materials can I use to make a compost heap? Contrary to many rumors, you can use any plant residue to make a compost. Some common ones are grass clippings, sawdust, leaves, stems, and peanut hulls. Also, green residues such as weeds, nonwoody hedge and shrub trimmings, harvested vines and plants from the vegetable garden, and many other materials may be added. Succulent materials decompose rapidly and, as a result, furnish nutrients for the microorganisms responsible for decomposition, thus speeding the entire process. Q.-Can I use sawdust to add organic matter to soils? In Florida it may be difficult to increase the organic matter in soils. However, it is possible to maintain the organic matter con- tent at a satisfactory level. According to Allison and Anderson of the U.S.D.A., sawdust may be used to maintain the organic matter content of soils. Regardless of the use made of sawdust, it should receive supplemental nitrogen at the rate of 1.5 per cent. This is equivalent to about 150 lbs. of ammonium sulfate per ton of fresh material. If the soil is already too acid, then a supplement of 100 lbs. of fine limestone should also be added to the ton of fresh sawdust. Q.-Should I leave lawn clippings on my lawn? If it is possible to cut up grass clippings fine enough, they should be left on the lawn. Generally, this can be accomplished with a special mulching attachment that comes with most of the newer mowers. The only reason for raking lawn clippings off the lawn is that they may be too thick, thus shading the growing grass underneath. If a lawn is mowed at regular intervals with a mulching attachment, there is no reason for removing clippings. Those that are left filter down into the soil, where they decom- pose and return plant food elements and humus. ORGANIC MATTER 75 2. It adds valuable plant food nutrients to the soil in the form that plants can utilize best. 3. It improves tilth and moisture conditions of the soil. Q.-What materials can I use to make a compost heap? Contrary to many rumors, you can use any plant residue to make a compost. Some common ones are grass clippings, sawdust, leaves, stems, and peanut hulls. Also, green residues such as weeds, nonwoody hedge and shrub trimmings, harvested vines and plants from the vegetable garden, and many other materials may be added. Succulent materials decompose rapidly and, as a result, furnish nutrients for the microorganisms responsible for decomposition, thus speeding the entire process. Q.-Can I use sawdust to add organic matter to soils? In Florida it may be difficult to increase the organic matter in soils. However, it is possible to maintain the organic matter con- tent at a satisfactory level. According to Allison and Anderson of the U.S.D.A., sawdust may be used to maintain the organic matter content of soils. Regardless of the use made of sawdust, it should receive supplemental nitrogen at the rate of 1.5 per cent. This is equivalent to about 150 lbs. of ammonium sulfate per ton of fresh material. If the soil is already too acid, then a supplement of 100 lbs. of fine limestone should also be added to the ton of fresh sawdust. Q.-Should I leave lawn clippings on my lawn? If it is possible to cut up grass clippings fine enough, they should be left on the lawn. Generally, this can be accomplished with a special mulching attachment that comes with most of the newer mowers. The only reason for raking lawn clippings off the lawn is that they may be too thick, thus shading the growing grass underneath. If a lawn is mowed at regular intervals with a mulching attachment, there is no reason for removing clippings. Those that are left filter down into the soil, where they decom- pose and return plant food elements and humus.  76 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-What is the simple chemistry of a rotting compost heap? A great variety of soil microbes takes part in the decay process of a compost heap. To encourage the rapid growth of these soil microbes, the compost is stacked and treated. By splitting the complex organic compounds to simple ones, they seek both energy and food from the compost. In brief, with proper amounts of air, water, carbon, and nitrogen from the compost heap, the microbes build their own cells, liberating carbon dioxide and water. After several months, the mass is greatly reduced in size. At this time, the oxidation process slows down and the compost material is ready to use. Q.-What causes a compost heap to heat? Is this harmful? Decomposition of the compost heap is a microbial process. Similar to a slow-burning fire, oxygen is consumed and carbon dioxide is liberated. If it were not trapped in the center of the compost pile, the heat expended from decomposition would not be de- tected. This heat can accumulate to a degree that would kill the microbes that create it, and, in turn, slow down further decom- position. To correct this situation, fork the compost heap over and allow fresh air to enter and the heat to escape. Q.-What is green manure? When any crop is grown for the specific purpose of being turned into the soil to augment its fertility value, it is termed a green manure crop. Generally, leguminous crops are used for this. Q.-Are pine needles as good as oak leaves for mulching plants? Pine needles are excellent material for mulching plants. They have a thick waxy surface that tends to retard decay, making the pine mulch last longer than the oak leaf mulch. Q.-Why are mulches recommended for nearly all plant beds? It is often said that a "green thumb" belongs to the gardener who knows how to use a good soil mulch. If there were a single cultural practice that favored the greatest number of plant growth factors, it would be a good mulch. Some of its benefits are: 76 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs Q.-What is the simple chemistry of a rotting compost heap? A great variety of soil microbes takes part in the decay process of a compost heap. To encourage the rapid growth of these soil microbes, the compost is stacked and treated. By splitting the complex organic compounds to simple ones, they seek both energy and food from the compost. In brief, with proper amounts of air, water, carbon, and nitrogen from the compost heap, the microbes build their own cells, liberating carbon dioxide and water. After several months, the mass is greatly reduced in size. At this time, the oxidation process slows down and the compost material is ready to use. Q.-What causes a compost heap to heat? Is this harmful? Decomposition of the compost heap is a microbial process. Similar to a slow-burning fire, oxygen is consumed and carbon dioxide is liberated. If it were not trapped in the center of the compost pile, the heat expended from decomposition would not be de- tected. This heat can accumulate to a degree that would kill the microbes that create it, and, in turn, slow down further decom- position. To correct this situation, fork the compost heap over and allow fresh air to enter and the heat to escape. Q.-What is green manure? When any crop is grown for the specific purpose of being turned into the soil to augment its fertility value, it is termed a green manure crop. Generally, leguminous crops are used for this. Q.-Are pine needles as good as oak leaves for mulching plants? Pine needles are excellent material for mulching plants. They have a thick waxy surface that tends to retard decay, making the pine mulch last longer than the oak leaf mulch. Q.-Why are mulches recommended for nearly all plant beds? It is often said that a "green thumb" belongs to the gardener who knows how to use a good soil mulch. If there were a single cultural practice that favored the greatest number of plant growth factors, it would be a good mulch. Some of its benefits are: 76 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-What is the simple chemistry of a rotting compost heap? A great variety of soil microbes takes part in the decay process of a compost heap. To encourage the rapid growth of these soil microbes, the compost is stacked and treated. By splitting the complex organic compounds to simple ones, they seek both energy and food from the compost. In brief, with proper amounts of air, water, carbon, and nitrogen from the compost heap, the microbes build their own cells, liberating carbon dioxide and water. After several months, the mass is greatly reduced in size. At this time, the oxidation process slows down and the compost material is ready to use. Q.-What causes a compost heap to heat? Is this harmful? Decomposition of the compost heap is a microbial process. Similar to a slow-burning fire, oxygen is consumed and carbon dioxide is liberated. If it were not trapped in the center of the compost pile, the heat expended from decomposition would not be de- tected. This heat can accumulate to a degree that would kill the microbes that create it, and, in turn, slow down further decom- position. To correct this situation, fork the compost heap over and allow fresh air to enter and the heat to escape. Q.-What is green manure? When any crop is grown for the specific purpose of being turned into the soil to augment its fertility value, it is termed a green manure crop. Generally, leguminous crops are used for this. Q.-Are pine needles as good as oak leaves for mulching plants? Pine needles are excellent material for mulching plants. They have a thick waxy surface that tends to retard decay, making the pine mulch last longer than the oak leaf mulch. Q.-Why are mulches recommended for nearly all plant beds? It is often said that a "green thumb" belongs to the gardener who knows how to use a good soil mulch. If there were a single cultural practice that favored the greatest number of plant growth factors, it would be a good mulch. Some of its benefits are:  ORGANIC MATTER 77 ORGANIC MATTER 77 ORGANIC MATTER 77 1. A good mulch maintains a uniform soil temperature. 2. The soil retains as much as 2 or 3 per cent more moisture. 3. A mulch adds organic matter to the soil which, in turn, favors beneficial microbial activity. 4. It helps keep down weed growth. Q.-Organic growers claim that a plant can be grown so thriftily that disease and insect pests are no problem. Is this true? There is no scientifically proven evidence to show that plants are any more thriftily grown organically or that pests are selective in their choice of weak or thrifty plants to attack. It should be remembered that any and all plants need the 16 essential plant food elements in certain amounts and proportions, regardless of whether they receive them from organic or inorganic sources. Q.-What is humus? Soil humus will be observed when the top layer of undecomposed plant remains is moved from the surface of the soil. Humus is well mixed with the mineral portion of the soil, giving it a black or brown color. Its origin is the plant and animal remains that have undergone extensive decomposition and have reached a carbon-nitrogen ratio that prevents further rapid decomposition. This "slow fire" is fed by the partially decomposed plant residues near the surface. Humus is the natural home of billions of tiny soil microbes that use carbon to build their bodies and as a source of energy. Humus is a valuable part of our Florida sandy soils and should be maintained. Q.-I have been doing what neighbors have been doing for years-burning all the plant residue that I can. Will this method improve my sandy garden soil? By not allowing plant residues to replenish the organic matter that is lost by oxidation, you are depriving the soil of the most valuable ingredient it can have. One needs only to observe the dark color of the top soil to realize that it had its beginning from plant residues, as well as from animal residues. Why defeat the balance of nature by not returning plant residue to the soil? 1. A good mulch maintains a uniform soil temperature. 2. The soil retains as much as 2 or 3 per cent more moisture. 3. A mulch adds organic matter to the soil which, in turn, favors beneficial microbial activity. 4. It helps keep down weed growth. Q.-Organic growers claim that a plant can be grown so thriftily that disease and insect pests are no problem. Is this true? There is no scientifically proven evidence to show that plants are any more thriftily grown organically or that pests are selective in their choice of weak or thrifty plants to attack. It should be remembered that any and all plants need the 16 essential plant food elements in certain amounts and proportions, regardless of whether they receive them from organic or inorganic sources. Q.-What is humus? Soil humus will be observed when the top layer of undecomposed plant remains is moved from the surface of the soil. Humus is well mixed with the mineral portion of the soil, giving it a black or brown color. Its origin is the plant and animal remains that have undergone extensive decomposition and have reached a carbon-nitrogen ratio that prevents further rapid decomposition. This "slow fire" is fed by the partially decomposed plant residues near the surface. Humus is the natural home of billions of tiny soil microbes that use carbon to build their bodies and as a source of energy. Humus is a valuable part of our Florida sandy soils and should be maintained. Q.-I have been doing what neighbors have been doing for years-burning all the plant residue that I can. Will this method improve my sandy garden soil? By not allowing plant residues to replenish the organic matter that is lost by oxidation, you are depriving the soil of the most valuable ingredient it can have. One needs only to observe the dark color of the top soil to realize that it had its beginning from plant residues, as well as from animal residues. Why defeat the balance of nature by not returning plant residue to the soil? 1. A good mulch maintains a uniform soil temperature. 2. The soil retains as much as 2 or 3 per cent more moisture. 3. A mulch adds organic matter to the soil which, in turn, favors beneficial microbial activity. 4. It helps keep down weed growth. Q.-Organic growers claim that a plant can be grown so thriftily that disease and insect pests are no problem. Is this true? There is no scientifically proven evidence to show that plants are any more thriftily grown organically or that pests are selective in their choice of weak or thrifty plants to attack. It should be remembered that any and all plants need the 16 essential plant food elements in certain amounts and proportions, regardless of whether they receive them from organic or inorganic sources. Q.-What is humus? Soil humus will be observed when the top layer of undecomposed plant remains is moved from the surface of the soil. Humus is well mixed with the mineral portion of the soil, giving it a black or brown color. Its origin is the plant and animal remains that have undergone extensive decomposition and have reached a carbon-nitrogen ratio that prevents further rapid decomposition. This "slow fire" is fed by the partially decomposed plant residues near the surface. Humus is the natural home of billions of tiny soil microbes that use carbon to build their bodies and as a source of energy. Humus is a valuable part of our Florida sandy soils and should be maintained. Q.-I have been doing what neighbors have been doing for years-burning all the plant residue that I can. Will this method improve my sandy garden soil? By not allowing plant residues to replenish the organic matter that is lost by oxidation, you are depriving the soil of the most valuable ingredient it can have. One needs only to observe the dark color of the top soil to realize that it had its beginning from plant residues, as well as from animal residues. Why defeat the balance of nature by not returning plant residue to the soil?  'y FIVE a; a; a; ter X FIVE X; a; FIVE X, Moisture and Temperature Q.-Is irrigation of vegetable gardens desirable? Nothing is more satisfying or offers better dividends than a good system of irrigation for the Florida home garden. There are few soils that cannot stand the extra amount of moisture needed to keep plants at peak growing conditions. During Florida's dry spring season and for sandy garden soils, this is especially true. Q.-Is rain water the same quality as water from a home supply? No, it is quite different. Except for a small quantity of dissolved CO,, rain water is nearly distilled. The weak carbonic acid makes the rain water slightly acid. Either naturally or by special treat- ment, your home supply water will have a much higher content of dissolved salts. Q.-Should water from the washing machine be used around plants? It is not wise to use soapy water around plants. Most soapy water is quite alkaline and, in time, will upset the favorable pH balance of soil. Soapy water also tends to be detrimental to good 78 Moisture and Temperature Q.-Is irrigation of vegetable gardens desirable? Nothing is more satisfying or offers better dividends than a good system of irrigation for the Florida home garden. There are few soils that cannot stand the extra amount of moisture needed to keep plants at peak growing conditions. During Florida's dry spring season and for sandy garden soils, this is especially true. Q.-Is rain water the same quality as water from a home supply? No, it is quite different. Except for a small quantity of dissolved CO2, rain water is nearly distilled. The weak carbonic acid makes the rain water slightly acid. Either naturally or by special treat- ment, your home supply water will have a much higher content of dissolved salts. Q.-Should water from the washing machine be used around plants? It is not wise to use soapy water around plants. Most soapy water is quite alkaline and, in time, will upset the favorable pH balance of soil. Soapy water also tends to be detrimental to good 78 Moisture and Temperature Q.-Is irrigation of vegetable gardens desirable? Nothing is more satisfying or offers better dividends than a good system of irrigation for the Florida home garden. There are few soils that cannot stand the extra amount of moisture needed to keep plants at peak growing conditions. During Florida's dry spring season and for sandy garden soils, this is especially true. Q.-Is rain water the same quality as water from a home supply? No, it is quite different. Except for a small quantity of dissolved CO,, rain water is nearly distilled. The weak carbonic acid makes the rain water slightly acid. Either naturally or by special treat- ment, your home supply water will have a much higher content of dissolved salts. Q.-Should water from the washing machine be used around plants? It is not wise to use soapy water around plants. Most soapy water is quite alkaline and, in time, will upset the favorable pH balance of soil. Soapy water also tends to be detrimental to good 78  MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 79 soil structure. By constantly using washing machine water, soil porosity is reduced and favorable soil aeration is impeded. Q.-At what stage of growth is the greatest amount of water required by garden crops? During the earlier vegetative stage, when cell division is at its peak, the greatest amount of water is required, the quantity depending on the size of the plants grown. A large garden of tomato plants requires frequent rains to keep them turgid prior to fruiting. Q.-How much water does it take to grow 100 bu. of corn per acre? It is estimated that it takes about 500,000 gallons or about 20 in. of rain to produce 100 bu. of corn on one acre. Q.-Why does the soil on the west side of my house dry out so fast? The soil on the west side of your house is heated all day long by the sun. If there are no shade trees to prevent it, the sun strikes the soil early in the morning and late in the afternoon. When subject to prolonged heat, any soil, especially sandy soil, gives up its surface moisture quickly by evaporation. Q.-After the surface of my garden begins to dry out, what causes the soil moisture to move up? As the surface soil dries out and the water film around each soil particle becomes thinner, it creates a force called tension. This thinner film of moisture pulls moisture from the thicker film of water located deeper in the soil. The area around the roots of plants creates the same kind of tension as the roots remove moisture from the soil. This is a desirable process in keeping plants supplied with a steady flow of available moisture. Q.-When discussing the movement of moisture in garden soil, what is the difference between percolation and leaching? Percolation is the normal movement of rain water through the soil. The rapid infiltration of rain water and its subsequent per- MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 79 MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 79 soil structure. By constantly using washing machine water, soil porosity is reduced and favorable soil aeration is impeded. Q.-At what stage of growth is the greatest amount of water required by garden crops? During the earlier vegetative stage, when cell division is at its peak, the greatest amount of water is required, the quantity depending on the size of the plants grown. A large garden of tomato plants requires frequent rains to keep them turgid prior to fruiting. Q.-How much water does it take to grow 100 bu. of corn per acre? It is estimated that it takes about 500,000 gallons or about 20 in. of rain to produce 100 bu. of corn on one acre. Q.-Why does the soil on the west side of my house dry out so fast? The soil on the west side of your house is heated all day long by the sun. If there are no shade trees to prevent it, the sun strikes the soil early in the morning and late in the afternoon. When subject to prolonged heat, any soil, especially sandy soil, gives up its surface moisture quickly by evaporation. Q.-After the surface of my garden begins to dry out, what causes the soil moisture to move up? As the surface soil dries out and the water film around each soil particle becomes thinner, it creates a force called tension. This thinner film of moisture pulls moisture from the thicker film of water located deeper in the soil. The area around the roots of plants creates the same kind of tension as the roots remove moisture from the soil. This is a desirable process in keeping plants supplied with a steady flow of available moisture. Q.-When discussing the movement of moisture in garden soil, what is the difference between percolation and leaching? Percolation is the normal movement of rain water through the soil. The rapid infitration of rain water and its subsequent per- soil structure. By constantly using washing machine water, soil porosity is reduced and favorable soil aeration is impeded. Q.-At what stage of growth is the greatest amount of water required by garden crops? During the earlier vegetative stage, when cell division is at its peak, the greatest amount of water is required, the quantity depending on the size of the plants grown. A large garden of tomato plants requires frequent rains to keep them turgid prior to fruiting. Q.-How much water does it take to grow 100 bu, of corn per acre? It is estimated that it takes about 500,000 gallons or about 20 in. of rain to produce 100 bu. of corn on one acre. Q.-Why does the soil on the west side of my house dry out so fast? The soil on the west side of your house is heated all day long by the sun. If there are no shade trees to prevent it, the sun strikes the soil early in the morning and late in the afternoon. When subject to prolonged heat, any soil, especially sandy soil, gives up its surface moisture quickly by evaporation. Q.-After the surface of my garden begins to dry out, what causes the soil moisture to move up? As the surface soil dries out and the water film around each soil particle becomes thinner, it creates a force called tension. This thinner film of moisture pulls moisture from the thicker film of water located deeper in the soil. The area around the roots of plants creates the same kind of tension as the roots remove moisture from the soil. This is a desirable process in keeping plants supplied with a steady flow of available moisture. Q.-When discussing the movement of moisture in garden soil, what is the difference between percolation and leaching? Percolation is the normal movement of rain water through the soil. The rapid infiltration of rain water and its subsequent per-  PRECIPITATION EVAPORATION TRANSPIRATION -I? 5 t II 5t ii li ii II it II 11 li II 11 11 tl j 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 ii II II II it 11 it 11 1 -IkFS., 11 II Z'lv.Uh,.4 Al, PRECIPITATION EVAPORATIO TRANSPIRATION tit : 5t 1 HUMIDIFIED SOIL SUBSOIL STORAGE ROCK HUMIDIFIED SOIL SUBSOIL STORAGE ROCK THE MOISTURE CYCLE THE MOISTURE CYCLE THE MOISTURE CYCLE  MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 81 MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 81 MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 81 colation down to the water table is a highly desirable process. Leaching is a term used to express the loss of plant food elements and other valuable soil materials when the percolation of water through the soil is excessive. Q.-My neighbor has the same type of soil that I have, yet water stands on my soil much longer than on his. What causes the difference? The difference is in soil structure which pertains to the arrange- ment of soil particles. Soils that have been properly managed will have good soil structure. These soils will be porous and allow for rapid infiltration of rain water. Under the impact of beating rains, soils that are left fallow with no plant cover for protection will soon puddle or seal. Once the surface soil is sealed, the rain water remains on the surface where it is lost by evaporation or runoff. See your County Agricultural Agent for a good soil- management program for a garden. Q.-What is meant by a waterlogged soil? When drainage is so poor that there is insufficient air for normal root development, the soil is said to be waterlogged. Under these conditions, the pore space in the soil is full of moisture, even at the surface. Q.-How can a heavy clay soil that remains wet be drained? These soils are drained satisfactorily by the proper installation of suitable drain tile. Your County Agricultural Agent has printed directions on how to lay drain tile. This procedure is expensive and should be planned carefully. Q.-What have hills and slopes to do with temperature of the air? As well as affecting the temperature of the soil, hills and slopes have a great deal to do with temperature of the air. Cold air is heavier than warm, thus remaining near the surface or drifting down the slopes to lower levels by movement of wind and gravity. At the same time, warmer air, favoring high levels of ground, colation down to the water table is a highly desirable process. Leaching is a term used to express the loss of plant food elements and other valuable soil materials when the percolation of water through the soil is excessive. Q.-My neighbor has the same type of soil that I have, yet water stands on my soil much longer than on his. What causes the difference? The difference is in soil structure which pertains to the arrange- ment of soil particles. Soils that have been properly managed will have good soil structure. These soils will be porous and allow for rapid infiltration of rain water. Under the impact of beating rains, soils that are left fallow with no plant cover for protection will soon puddle or seal. Once the surface soil is sealed, the rain water remains on the surface where it is lost by evaporation or runoff. See your County Agricultural Agent for a good soil- management program for a garden. Q.-What is meant by a waterlogged soil? When drainage is so poor that there is insufficient air for normal root development, the soil is said to be waterlogged. Under these conditions, the pore space in the soil is full of moisture, even at the surface. Q.-How can a heavy clay soil that remains wet be drained? These soils are drained satisfactorily by the proper installation of suitable drain tile. Your County Agricultural Agent has printed directions on how to lay drain tile. This procedure is expensive and should be planned carefully. Q.-What have hills and slopes to do with temperature of the air? As well as affecting the temperature of the soil, hills and slopes have a great deal to do with temperature of the air. Cold air is heavier than warm, thus remaining near the surface or drifting down the slopes to lower levels by movement of wind and gravity. At the same time, warmer air, favoring high levels of ground, colation down to the water table is a highly desirable process. Leaching is a term used to express the loss of plant food elements and other valuable soil materials when the percolation of water through the soil is excessive. Q.-My neighbor has the same type of soil that I have, yet water stands on my soil much longer than on his. What causes the difference? The difference is in soil structure which pertains to the arrange- ment of soil particles. Soils that have been properly managed will have good soil structure. These soils will be porous and allow for rapid infiltration of rain water. Under the impact of beating rains, soils that are left fallow with no plant cover for protection will soon puddle or seal. Once the surface soil is sealed, the rain water remains on the surface where it is lost by evaporation or runoff. See your County Agricultural Agent for a good soil- management program for a garden. Q.-What is meant by a waterlogged soil? When drainage is so poor that there is insufficient air for normal root development, the soil is said to be waterlogged. Under these conditions, the pore space in the soil is full of moisture, even at the surface. Q.-How can a heavy clay soil that remains wet be drained? These soils are drained satisfactorily by the proper installation of suitable drain tile. Your County Agricultural Agent has printed directions on how to lay drain tile. This procedure is expensive and should be planned carefully. Q.-What have hills and slopes to do with temperature of the air? As well as affecting the temperature of the soil, hills and slopes have a great deal to do with temperature of the air. Cold air is heavier than warm, thus remaining near the surface or drifting down the slopes to lower levels by movement of wind and gravity. At the same time, warmer air, favoring high levels of ground,  -- '' - WHEN N EMPTY COFFEE CAN ACCUMULATES ABOUT AN INHO AE HE OL LUL O (DEEP ROOT SYSTEM) USE A GOOD MECHANICAL SPRINKLER TO WATER THE GARDEN OR LAWN / HEN AN EMPTY C6FFEE CAN ACCUMULATES ABOUT AN INCH OF WATER THE SO GD WILL POLY MS FO USE A GOOD MECHANICAL SPRINKLER TO WATER THE GARDEN OR LAWN WHEN AN EMPTY COFFEE CAN ACCUMULATES ABOUT AN NCH OF WATE THE SOIL WILL S LYM IS FOR (DEEP ROOT SYSTEM) USE A GOOD MECHANICAL SPRINKLER TO WATER THE GARDEN OR LAWN  MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 83 MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 83 MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 83 rises above cold air. Consequently, frost remains in pockets and low ground long after frost has melted on higher ground. Soil that is exposed on slopes facing the south is warmer than soils existing on northern slopes. Q.-Which side of a lake in Florida is the warmest? The south side of Florida's lakes is warmer than the north side. The larger the lake, the greater the effect on air temperature. Water is one of the slowest substances to warm up or cool off. Long after the air above has cooled, lake water retains its heat. A cold north wind blowing over water of a higher temperature will be affected, thus carrying an acquired warmth over land on the south side of a lake. Q.-Should plants be watered before or after fertilizer is applied? Always apply fertilizer first, washing it immediately into the soil with a sprinkler. If left for any length of time on a plant, dry fertilizer on a dry leaf will cause severe tip burn. Q.-Can I make a good rain gauge? You certainly can. An empty coffee can makes an excellent rain gauge. An inch of rain water in a coffee can is an inch of rainfall. Q.-What are the principal requirements of a good garden sprinkler? In choosing a garden sprinkler, a most important prerequisite is one large enough to cover the desired area to be sprinkled. It should require as little mechanical maintenance as possible and should deliver a spray with drops that are small enough to prevent the soil from puddling or sealing over. An efficient sprinkler should deliver ample water for wetting the top 3 or 4 in. of soil in a reasonable length of time. Q.-The roots from my shade trees are competing with shrubs for soil moisture. Should these shrubs be given additional water? Yes. Since both shade trees and shrubs are valuable assets to a rises above cold air. Consequently, frost remains in pockets and low ground long after frost has melted on higher ground. Soil that is exposed on slopes facing the south is warmer than soils existing on northern slopes. Q.--Which side of a lake in Florida is the warmest? The south side of Florida's lakes is warmer than the north side. The larger the lake, the greater the effect on air temperature. Water is one of the slowest substances to warm up or cool off. Long after the air above has cooled, lake water retains its heat. A cold north wind blowing over water of a higher temperature will be affected, thus carrying an acquired warmth over land on the south side of a lake. Q.-Should plants be watered before or after fertilizer is applied? Always apply fertilizer first, washing it immediately into the soil with a sprinkler. If left for any length of time on a plant, dry fertilizer on a dry leaf will cause severe tip burn. Q.-Can I make a good rain gauge? You certainly can. An empty coffee can makes an excellent rain gauge. An inch of rain water in a coffee can is an inch of rainfall. Q.-What are the principal requirements of a good garden sprinkler? In choosing a garden sprinkler, a most important prerequisite is one large enough to cover the desired area to be sprinkled. It should require as little mechanical maintenance as possible and should deliver a spray with drops that are small enough to prevent the soil from puddling or sealing over. An efficient sprinkler should deliver ample water for wetting the top 3 or 4 in, of soil in a reasonable length of time. Q.-The roots from my shade trees are competing with shrubs for soil moisture. Should these shrubs be given additional water? Yes. Since both shade trees and shrubs are valuable assets to a rises above cold air. Consequently, frost remains in pockets and low ground long after frost has melted on higher ground. Soil that is exposed on slopes facing the south is warmer than soils existing on northern slopes. Q.-Which side of a lake in Florida is the warmest? The south side of Florida's lakes is warmer than the north side. The larger the lake, the greater the effect on air temperature. Water is one of the slowest substances to warm up or cool off. Long after the air above has cooled, lake water retains its heat. A cold north wind blowing over water of a higher temperature will be affected, thus carrying an acquired warmth over land on the south side of a lake. Q.-Should plants be watered before or after fertilizer is applied? Always apply fertilizer fbost, washing it immediately into the soil with a sprinkler. If left for any length of time on a plant, dry fertilizer on a dry leaf will cause severe tip burn. Q.-Can I make a good rain gauge? You certainly can. An empty coffee can makes an excellent rain gauge. An inch of rain water in a coffee can is an inch of rainfall. Q.-What are the principal requirements of a good garden sprinkler? In choosing a garden sprinkler, a most important prerequisite is one large enough to cover the desired area to be sprinkled. It should require as little mechanical maintenance as possible and should deliver a spray with drops that are small enough to prevent the soil from puddling or sealing over. An efficient sprinkler should deliver ample water for wetting the top 3 or 4 in. of soil in a reasonable length of time. Q.-The roots from my shade trees are competing with shrubs for soil moisture. Should these shrubs be given additional water? Yes. Since both shade trees and shrubs are valuable assets to a  84 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 84 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 84 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS home environment, sufficient water should be supplied for both. To further conserve soil moisture, a heavy mulch around the shrubs is desirable. Q.-Is it feasible to purchase one of the new testing instruments for checking moisture conditions of a garden? For the average home garden, it is doubtful if such instruments are worth while. One of the best moisture testing instruments for a home garden is the hand trowel. A good sturdy one may be purchased for approximately 50 cents. If the trowel reveals that the top 3 or 4 in. are well-moistened, the garden is properly watered. Q.-How can I speed up the drainage of water from flatwoods soil? The number and depth of drainage ditches have much to do with the rate and volume of water removed from flatwoods soils. By digging ditches deeper, the water table is lowered in the immediate area. For literature on properly draining a typical Florida flatwoods soil, see your County Agricultural Agent. Q.-What effect does too much water have on the growth of plants? Too much water may have several detrimental effects. Some of them are: I. Too much water may cause excessive dilution and leaching of plant food elements from the soil. 2. Plants become spindly and unthrifty looking. 3. Too much water may block out sufficient air in the soil for root growth. Q.-Should I refrain from watering plants during the heat of the day? It does not matter whether plants are watered at midnight or at noon. In either case, the plant is subjected to no harm. The best reason for watering after the sun is low on the horizon is related to air temperature. During the heat of the day, humidity is low home environment, sufficient water should be supplied for both. To further conserve soil moisture, a heavy mulch around the shrubs is desirable. Q.-Is it feasible to purchase one of the new testing instruments for checking moisture conditions of a garden? For the average home garden, it is doubtful if such instruments are worth while. One of the best moisture testing instruments for a home garden is the hand trowel. A good sturdy one may be purchased for approximately 50 cents. If the trowel reveals that the top 3 or 4 in. are well-moistened, the garden is properly watered. Q.-How can I speed up the drainage of water from flatwoods soil? The number and depth of drainage ditches have much to do with the rate and volume of water removed from flatwoods soils. By digging ditches deeper, the water table is lowered in the immediate area. For literature on properly draining a typical Florida flatwoods soil, see your County Agricultural Agent. Q.-What effect does too much water have on the growth of plants? Too much water may have several detrimental effects. Some of them are: 1. Too much water may cause excessive dilution and leaching of plant food elements from the soil. 2. Plants become spindly and unthrifty looking. 3. Too much water may block out sufficient air in the soil for root growth. Q.-Should I refrain from watering plants during the heat of the day? It does not matter whether plants are watered at midnight or at noon. In either case, the plant is subjected to no harm. The best reason for watering after the sun is low on the horizon is related to air temperature. During the heat of the day, humidity is low home environment, sufficient water should be supplied for both. To further conserve soil moisture, a heavy mulch around the shrubs is desirable. Q.-Is it feasible to purchase one of the new testing instruments for checking moisture conditions of a garden? For the average home garden, it is doubtful if such instruments are worth while. One of the best moisture testing instruments for a home garden is the hand trowel. A good sturdy one may be purchased for approximately 50 cents. If the trowel reveals that the top 3 or 4 in. are well-moistened, the garden is properly watered. Q.--How can I speed up the drainage of water from flatwoods soil? The number and depth of drainage ditches have much to do with the rate and volume of water removed from flatwoods soils. By digging ditches deeper, the water table is lowered in the immediate area. For literature on properly draining a typical Florida flatwoods soil, see your County Agricultural Agent. Q.-What effect does too much water have on the growth of plants? Too much water may have several detrimental effects. Some of them are: I. Too much water may cause excessive dilution and leaching of plant food elements from the soil. 2. Plants become spindly and unthrifty looking. 3. Too much water may block out sufficient air in the soil for root growth. Q.-Should I refrain from watering plants during the heat of the day? It does not matter whether plants are watered at midnight or at noon. In either case, the plant is subjected to no harm. The best reason for watering after the sun is low on the horizon is related to air temperature. During the heat of the day, humidity is low  MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 85 and evaporation high. Much water is lost that otherwise goes into the soil, thereby becoming unavailable to the plant. The opposite is true at night. Humidity is high and evaporation low. Q.-Why are black sands harder to drain than light sands? Pore spaces in black sands are partially filled with organic matter, thus preventing rapid percolation and movement of water through the soil. Once drained, these same black sands retain soil moisture longer between rains. Q.-I have noticed that during a prolonged dry spell some of the younger plants wilt after they are watered with a supple- mental water supply. What is the reason for this? In all probability, wilting of young plants during a dry spell and after watering indicates that supplemental water is high in total dissolved salts. Because of the diluting effect of local rainfall, they did not wilt at other times. Q.-Is it feasible to install an irrigation system for a lawn? This depends on the size of the lawn. If the area is one acre or more, an irrigation system is practical. A properly installed lawn irrigation system does a more efficient and thorough job of water- ing than the manual method. Q.-The more I fertilize my garden, the healthier the weed crop and the more frequent irrigation necessary. What is taking place? Weeds, nature's own moisture pumps, are using the moisture cultivated plants should have. By removing weeds, you remove competition, thereby conserving on the moisture, and possibly cutting the amount of irrigation in half. Q.-How much and how often should plants be watered? This depends on the type of soil and the kind of plants to be watered. Heavier soils, such as loams, hold larger quantities of water over a longer period of time than sandy soils. After water- ing, all soils should be moist to a depth of 4 or 5 in. For MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 85 and evaporation high. Much water is lost that otherwise goes into the soil, thereby becoming unavailable to the plant. The opposite is true at night. Humidity is high and evaporation low. Q.-Why are black sands harder to drain than light sands? Pore spaces in black sands are partially filled with organic matter, thus preventing rapid percolation and movement of water through the soil. Once drained, these same black sands retain soil moisture longer between rains. Q.-I have noticed that during a prolonged dry spell some of the younger plants wilt after they are watered with a supple- mental water supply. What is the reason for this? In all probability, wilting of young plants during a dry spell and after watering indicates that supplemental water is high in total dissolved salts. Because of the diluting effect of local rainfall, they did not wilt at other times. Q.-Is it feasible to install an irrigation system for a lawn? This depends on the size of the lawn. If the area is one acre or more, an irrigation system is practical. A properly installed lawn irrigation system does a more efficient and thorough job of water- ing than the manual method. Q.-The more I fertilize my garden, the healthier the weed crop and the more frequent irrigation necessary. What is taking place? Weeds, nature's own moisture pumps, are using the moisture cultivated plants should have. By removing weeds, you remove competition, thereby conserving on the moisture, and possibly cutting the amount of irrigation in half. Q.-How much and how often should plants be watered? This depends on the type of soil and the kind of plants to be watered. Heavier soils, such as loams, hold larger quantities of water over a longer period of time than sandy soils. After water- ing, all soils should be moist to a depth of 4 or 5 in. For MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 85 and evaporation high. Much water is lost that otherwise goes into the soil, thereby becoming unavailable to the plant. The opposite is true at night. Humidity is high and evaporation low. Q.-Why are black sands harder to drain than light sands? Pore spaces in black sands are partially filled with organic matter, thus preventing rapid percolation and movement of water through the soil. Once drained, these same black sands retain soil moisture longer between rains. Q.-I have noticed that during a prolonged dry spell some of the younger plants wilt after they are watered with a supple- mental water supply. What is the reason for this? In all probability, wilting of young plants during a dry spell and after watering indicates that supplemental water is high in total dissolved salts. Because of the diluting effect of local rainfall, they did not wilt at other times. Q.-Is it feasible to install an irrigation system for a lawn? This depends on the size of the lawn. If the area is one acre or more, an irrigation system is practical. A properly installed lawn irrigation system does a more efficient and thorough job of water- ing than the manual method. Q.-The more I fertilize my garden, the healthier the weed crop and the more frequent irrigation necessary. What is taking place? Weeds, nature's own moisture pumps, are using the moisture cultivated plants should have. By removing weeds, you remove competition, thereby conserving on the moisture, and possibly cutting the amount of irrigation in half. Q.-How much and how often should plants be watered? This depends on the type of soil and the kind of plants to be watered. Heavier soils, such as loams, hold larger quantities of water over a longer period of time than sandy soils. After water- ing, all soils should be moist to a depth of 4 or 5 in. For  86 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 86 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 86 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS determining when to water plants, use a sturdy hand trowel to open the soil for a visual inspection. Q.-Are soils near the coast warmer than soils in the interior of Florida? Yes. Soils near the coast in Florida are modified indirectly by the Atlantic Ocean on the east coast and the Gulf of Mexico on the west coast. These large bodies of water warm the air above them. In turn, this warm air moves in and modifies the soil temperature near the coast. In winter, cold waves from the north counteract this warm air movement by sending long tongues of cold air down the central ridge portion of the state. Q.-What can be done about a boggy, wet area in a garden? This calls for good water management. Although we should be careful not to overdrain in sandy soils, there are times when drainage is necessary. Some low boggy spots may be easily filled in with a sandy texture of soil. When there is enough fall, they may be successfully drained. On the other hand, when there is little or no fall, a deep ditch, or tile drain, may be used for dropping the local water table to a desired level for at least a portion of the year. Q.-Are weeds serious competitors for soil moisture? Weeds compete directly with cultivated plants for soil moisture. More water is removed from garden soil by weeds than by any other means. Q.- I have a well-drained sandy soil for a garden plot. Should I rely wholly on rainfall for irrigation needs? Florida has sufficient rainfall which, unfortunately, comes at the wrong time of the year for most garden needs. Consequently, having a supplemental irrigation system is almost a necessity. For most soils in Florida, an irrigation system will prove its worth many times. Q.-What is a practicable procedure for using irrigation water high in soluble salts? determining when to water plants, use a sturdy hand trowel to open the soil for a visual inspection. Q.-Are soils near the coast warmer than soils in the interior of Florida? Yes. Soils near the coast in Florida are modified indirectly by the Atlantic Ocean on the east coast and the Gulf of Mexico on the west coast. These large bodies of water warm the air above them. In turn, this warm air moves in and modifies the soil temperature near the coast. In winter, cold waves from the north counteract this warm air movement by sending long tongues of cold air down the central ridge portion of the state. Q.-What can be done about a boggy, wet area in a garden? This calls for good water management. Although we should be careful not to overdrain in sandy soils, there are times when drainage is necessary. Some low boggy spots may be easily filled in with a sandy texture of soil. When there is enough fall, they may be successfully drained. On the other hand, when there is little or no fall, a deep ditch, or tile drain, may be used for dropping the local water table to a desired level for at least a portion of the year. Q.-Are weeds serious competitors for soil moisture? Weeds compete directly with cultivated plants for soil moisture. More water is removed from garden soil by weeds than by any other means. Q.- I have a well-drained sandy soil for a garden plot. Should I rely wholly on rainfall for irrigation needs? Florida has sufficient rainfall which, unfortunately, comes at the wrong time of the year for most garden needs. Consequently, having a supplemental irrigation system is almost a necessity. For most soils in Florida, an irrigation system will prove its worth many times. Q.-What is a practicable procedure for using irrigation water high in soluble salts? determining when to water plants, use a sturdy hand trowel to open the soil for a visual inspection. Q.-Are soils near the coast warmer than soils in the interior of Florida? Yes. Soils near the coast in Florida are modified indirectly by the Atlantic Ocean on the east coast and the Gulf of Mexico on the west coast. These large bodies of water warm the air above them. In turn, this warm air moves in and modifies the soil temperature near the coast. In winter, cold waves from the north counteract this warm air movement by sending long tongues of cold air down the central ridge portion of the state. Q.-What can be done about a boggy, wet area in a garden? This calls for good water management. Although we should be careful not to overdrain in sandy soils, there are times when drainage is necessary. Some low boggy spots may be easily filled in with a sandy texture of soil. When there is enough fall, they may be successfully drained. On the other hand, when there is little or no fall, a deep ditch, or tile drain, may be used for dropping the local water table to a desired level for at least a portion of the year. Q.-Are weeds serious competitors for soil moisture? Weeds compete directly with cultivated plants for soil moisture. More water is removed from garden soil by weeds than by any other means. Q.- I have a well-drained sandy soil for a garden plot. Should I rely wholly on rainfall for irrigation needs? Florida has sufficient rainfall which, unfortunately, comes at the wrong time of the year for most garden needs. Consequently, having a supplemental irrigation system is almost a necessity. For most soils in Florida, an irrigation system will prove its worth many times. Q.-What is a practicable procedure for using irrigation water high in soluble salts?  MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 87 MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 87 MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 87 Salty irrigation water should be used at more frequent intervals than water containing a low content of dissolved salts. This is done to prevent the concentration and accumulation of salts in the soil. Only a few plants will tolerate a relatively high concen- tration of soluble salts. Any irrigation water with 2,000 parts per million or more of total dissolved salts can be toxic to plants, and should be used with caution. Q.-What is meant by the seep method of irrigation? For some gardens that rest over marl or clay, it is possible to irrigate by digging ditches between the rows of plants. The irri- gation water percolates down to the marl or clay where it is held and allowed to seep in a lateral direction toward the plant roots. For gardens of this type, overhead sprinkler systems are un- necessary. Q.-I have been told that there is moisture in garden soil even after plants wilt. Is this true? Yes, this is true. For most Florida soils, the amount of moisture may be about 2 or 3 per cent by weight. These thin films of moisture are held so tightly by soil particles that they are not available to plants. Q.-What is the overhead method of irrigation? Any method where sprinklers are used to irrigate the soil is termed overhead irrigation. For most sandy garden soils, this sys- tem is recommended. Q.-Which is the most detrimental to plants: sprinkling too little or too much? Both are bad. Sprinkling too little causes plant roots to grow near the surface where they quickly dry out. Sprinkling too much will, in time, leach the available plant food elements out of the topsoil. Wetting the soil with enough water to maintain a deep root system is the best irrigation practice. Q.-My well water is slightly brackish. Will this affect the fertility of soil? Salty irrigation water should be used at more frequent intervals than water containing a low content of dissolved salts. This is done to prevent the concentration and accumulation of salts in the soil. Only a few plants will tolerate a relatively high concen- tration of soluble salts. Any irrigation water with 2,000 parts per million or more of total dissolved salts can be toxic to plants, and should be used with caution. Q.-What is meant by the seep method of irrigation? For some gardens that rest over marl or clay, it is possible to irrigate by digging ditches between the rows of plants. The irri- gation water percolates down to the marl or clay where it is held and allowed to seep in a lateral direction toward the plant roots. For gardens of this type, overhead sprinkler systems are un- necessary. Q.-I have been told that there is moisture in garden soil even after plants wilt. Is this true? Yes, this is true. For most Florida soils, the amount of moisture may be about 2 or 3 per cent by weight. These thin films of moisture are held so tightly by soil particles that they are not available to plants. Q.-What is the overhead method of irrigation? Any method where sprinklers are used to irrigate the soil is termed overhead irrigation. For most sandy garden soils, this sys- tem is recommended. Q.-Which is the most detrimental to plants: sprinkling too little or too much? Both are bad. Sprinkling too little causes plant roots to grow near the surface where they quickly dry out. Sprinkling too much will, in time, leach the available plant food elements out of the topsoil. Wetting the soil with enough water to maintain a deep root system is the best irrigation practice. Q.-My well water is slightly brackish. Will this affect the fertility of soil? Salty irrigation water should be used at more frequent intervals than water containing a low content of dissolved salts. This is done to prevent the concentration and accumulation of salts in the soil. Only a few plants will tolerate a relatively high concen- tration of soluble salts. Any irrigation water with 2,000 parts per million or more of total dissolved salts can be toxic to plants, and should be used with caution. Q.-What is meant by the seep method of irrigation? For some gardens that rest over marl or clay, it is possible to irrigate by digging ditches between the rows of plants. The irri- gation water percolates down to the marl or clay where it is held and allowed to seep in a lateral direction toward the plant roots. For gardens of this type, overhead sprinkler systems are un- necessary. Q.-I have been told that there is moisture in garden soil even after plants wilt. Is this true? Yes, this is true. For most Florida soils, the amount of moisture may be about 2 or 3 per cent by weight. These thin films of moisture are held so tightly by soil particles that they are not available to plants. Q.-What is the overhead method of irrigation? Any method where sprinklers are used to irrigate the soil is termed overhead irrigation. For most sandy garden soils, this sys- tem is recommended. Q.-Which is the most detrimental to plants: sprinkling too little or too much? Both are bad. Sprinkling too little causes plant roots to grow near the surface where they quickly dry out. Sprinkling too much will, in time, leach the available plant food elements out of the topsoil. Wetting the soil with enough water to maintain a deep root system is the best irrigation practice. Q.-My well water is slightly brackish. Will this affect the fertility of soil?  88 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs The use of brackish water for irrigation in Florida is quite common. If the salts in brackish water are not allowed to accu- mulate, the fertility of the soil will not be appreciably affected. Local rainfall and more frequent use of brackish water tend to prevent concentration of these salts. Q.-I have been told to place a coffee can under a lawn sprinkler for determining the amount of water to apply. What is the procedure? This is a satisfactory method for measuring the amount of water used on a lawn. Since the container should have straight sides and be made of thin material, an empty coffee can fits the description. When the can fills to within 1 in. of water when placed under a sprinkler, the lawn has had sufficient moisture. For most soils, a repeated watering will not be necessary for several days. Q.-How can I test to find out if enough water has been applied to a lawn? Using a sturdy hand trowel, thrust it straight down into the lawn sod. In order to open the soil, pull the trowel toward you. Inspect the soil to determine if it is moist to a depth of approxi- mately 4 in. If so, the lawn is properly watered. Q.-Which is the best method of irrigation; the ditch, seep, or overhead method? This depends not only upon the kind of plant grown, but largely on the type of soil in the garden. Soils with a fine enough texture and a fair amount of clay may be irrigated by the ditch method. Deep sandy soils may have to be watered by overhead irrigation. Shallow sandy soils over a marl layer, hardpan, or clay pan may be irrigated successfully by the seep method. Q.-What is capillary water in garden soil? Capillary water is soil moisture held by tension. This is the most important moisture available to plants. Such moisture may move in any direction, from moist to dry soil particles. Generally, the 88 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs The use of brackish water for irrigation in Florida is quite common. If the salts in brackish water are not allowed to accu- mulate, the fertility of the soil will not be appreciably affected. Local rainfall and more frequent use of brackish water tend to prevent concentration of these salts. Q.-I have been told to place a coffee can under a lawn sprinkler for determining the amount of water to apply. What is the procedure? This is a satisfactory method for measuring the amount of water used on a lawn. Since the container should have straight sides and be made of thin material, an empty coffee can fits the description. When the can fills to within 1 in. of water when placed under a sprinkler, the lawn has had sufficient moisture. For most soils, a repeated watering will not be necessary for several days. Q.-How can I test to find out if enough water has been applied to a lawn? Using a sturdy hand trowel, thrust it straight down into the lawn sod. In order to open the soil, pull the trowel toward you. Inspect the soil to determine if it is moist to a depth of approxi- mately 4 in. If so, the lawn is properly watered. Q.-Which is the best method of irrigation; the ditch, seep, or overhead method? This depends not only upon the kind of plant grown, but largely on the type of soil in the garden. Soils with a fine enough texture and a fair amount of clay may be irrigated by the ditch method. Deep sandy soils may have to be watered by overhead irrigation. Shallow sandy soils over a marl layer, hardpan, or clay pan may be irrigated successfully by the seep method. Q.-What is capillary water in garden soil? Capillary water is soil moisture held by tension. This is the most important moisture available to plants. Such moisture may move in any direction, from moist to dry soil particles. Generally, the 88 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS The use of brackish water for irrigation in Florida is quite common. If the salts in brackish water are not allowed to accu- mulate, the fertility of the soil will not be appreciably affected. Local rainfall and more frequent use of brackish water tend to prevent concentration of these salts. Q.-I have been told to place a coffee can under a lawn sprinkler for determining the amount of water to apply. What is the procedure? This is a satisfactory method for measuring the amount of water used on a lawn. Since the container should have straight sides and be made of thin material, an empty coffee can fits the description. When the can fills to within 1 in, of water when placed under a sprinkler, the lawn has had sufficient moisture. For most soils, a repeated watering will not be necessary for several days. Q.-How can I test to find out if enough water has been applied to a lawn? Using a sturdy hand trowel, thrust it straight down into the lawn sod. In order to open the soil, pull the trowel toward you. Inspect the soil to determine if it is moist to a depth of approxi- mately 4 in. If so, the lawn is properly watered. Q.-Which is the best method of irrigation; the ditch, seep, or overhead method? This depends not only upon the kind of plant grown, but largely on the type of soil in the garden. Soils with a fine enough texture and a fair amount of clay may be irrigated by the ditch method. Deep sandy soils may have to be watered by overhead irrigation. Shallow sandy soils over a marl layer, hardpan, or clay pan may be irrigated successfully by the seep method. Q.-What is capillary water in garden soil? Capillary water is soil moisture held by tension. This is the most important moisture available to plants. Such moisture may move in any direction, from moist to dry soil particles. Generally, the  MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 89 surface of the soil dries out first. Thus, capillary water moves up from the moist to the drier surface soil particles. Q.-Why are flatwoods soils considered colder than higher ridge soils? There are several reasons for this difference. Some of them are as follows: 1. Flatwoods soils are low soils and gather the colder air that drifts down from the higher slopes. 2. Flatwoods soils have a high water table which tends to keep the soil temperature from changing rapidly. 3. A ridge soil with a low water table will warm up quickly in the spring of the year. 4. A flatwoods soil will take several more weeks before it feels the response of the warmer air over it. MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 89 surface of the soil dries out first. Thus, capillary water moves up from the moist to the drier surface soil particles. Q.-Why are flatwoods soils considered colder than higher ridge soils? There are several reasons for this difference. Some of them are as follows: 1. Flatwoods soils are low soils and gather the colder air that drifts down from the higher slopes. 2. Flatwoods soils have a high water table which tends to keep the soil temperature from changing rapidly. 3. A ridge soil with a low water table will warm up quickly in the spring of the year. 4. A flatwoods soil will take several more weeks before it feels the response of the warmer air over it. MOISTURE AND TEMPERATURE 89 surface of the soil dries out first. Thus, capillary water moves up from the moist to the drier surface soil particles. Q.-Why are flatwoods soils considered colder than higher ridge soils? There are several reasons for this difference. Some of them are as follows: 1. Flatwoods soils are low soils and gather the colder air that drifts down from the higher slopes. 2. Flatwoods soils have a high water table which tends to keep the soil temperature from changing rapidly. 3. A ridge soil with a low water table will warm up quickly in the spring of the year. 4. A flatwoods soil will take several more weeks before it feels the response of the warmer air over it.  six X X SIX X X six X Fertilizers Fertilizers Fertilizers Q.-What is the best fertilizer formula to use on a lawn? A good ratio is a 1-1-1. A fertilizer that fits this ratio satisfactorily is an 8-8-8 mixed fertilizer. This fertilizer carries the common superphosphate which yields considerable amounts of calcium and sulfur. These elements may be missing in the higher-analysis fertilizers. Q.-Should I buy a special fertilizer for azaleas and camellias? It is good practice to purchase a special fertilizer for azaleas and camellias. These fertilizers, properly balanced for this type of shrub, are treated to produce a special acid residue in the soil which is required by these acid-demanding plants. Q.-What is basic slag and what does it give to plants? Basic slag is a by-product of the smelting mills. This cinder-type material contains a fair amount of phosphorus and calcium. When basic slag is worked into the soil, it goes through a weathering process similar to any mineral material, thereby liberating small amounts of available phosphorus and calcium for plant use. 90 Q.-What is the best fertilizer formula to use on a lawn? A good ratio is a 1-1-1. A fertilizer that fits this ratio satisfactorily is an 8-8-8 mixed fertilizer. This fertilizer carries the common superphosphate which yields considerable amounts of calcium and sulfur. These elements may be missing in the higher-analysis fertilizers, Q.-Should I buy a special fertilizer for azaleas and camellias? It is good practice to purchase a special fertilizer for azaleas and camellias. These fertilizers, properly balanced for this type of shrub, are treated to produce a special acid residue in the soil which is required by these acid-demanding plants. Q.-What is basic slag and what does it give to plants? Basic slag is a by-product of the smelting mills. This cinder-type material contains a fair amount of phosphorus and calcium. When basic slag is worked into the soil, it goes through a weathering process similar to any mineral material, thereby liberating small amounts of available phosphorus and calcium for plant use. 90 Q.-What is the best fertilizer formula to use on a lawn? A good ratio is a 1-1-1. A fertilizer that fits this ratio satisfactorily is an 8-8-8 mixed fertilizer. This fertilizer carries the common superphosphate which yields considerable amounts of calcium and sulfur. These elements may be missing in the higher-analysis fertilizers. Q.-Should I buy a special fertilizer for azaleas and camellias? It is good practice to purchase a special fertilizer for azaleas and camellias. These fertilizers, properly balanced for this type of shrub, are treated to produce a special acid residue in the soil which is required by these acid-demanding plants. Q.-What is basic slag and what does it give to plants? Basic slag is a by-product of the smelting mills. This cinder-type material contains a fair amount of phosphorus and calcium. When basic slag is worked into the soil, it goes through a weathering process similar to any mineral material, thereby liberating small amounts of available phosphorus and calcium for plant use. 90  FERTILIZERS 91 FERTILIZERS 91 FERTILIZERS 91 Q.-Do plants use phosphorus and potassium as P,O, and K,0? The terms POs and KO are the oxides of phosphorus and potassium, and they are used only to indicate the amounts of these elements in a commercial fertilizer. Plants use only the elemental potassium and the phosphate ions of various soluble salts. To estimate the actual amounts of phosphorus and potas- sium that plants use, conversion factors must be applied. Q.-How many plant food elements does ammoniated superphos- phate supply? Ammoniated superphosphate is a carrier of phosphorus, ammo- nium nitrogen, and calcium. Q.-Is it possible to use too much fertilizer? Yes, it is possible to use too much fertilizer. Probably as much damage can come to plants from too much fertilizer as from too little. Burning of the plant tops and roots, and retardation of seed germination are some of the problems that arise from the use of too much fertilizer. Q.-What is a high-analysis fertilizer? A high-analysis fertilizer generally pertains to the higher grades of mixed fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10. A rule of thumb defini- tion would be any mixed fertilizer that uses double or treble superphosphate to supply the phosphorus content of the mix. Mixed fertilizers of a 9-9-9 grade, or higher, use the concen- trated superphosphate in order to obtain a 100 per cent mix without a filler. Very few high-analysis fertilizers carry a filler, whereas all low-analysis fertilizers have fillers. Q.-What is the difference between a 6-6-6 and a 12-12-12 mixed fertilizer? In the first place, the 6-6-6 is a low-analysis fertilizer and the 12-12-12 is a high-analysis fertilizer. The 12-12-12 has twice as much nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium as the 6-6-6 but contains low amounts of calcium and no sulfur. The 6-6-6 has one half as much nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium as the Q.-Do plants use phosphorus and potassium as P0, and K,O? The terms PaOs and K2O are the oxides of phosphorus and potassium, and they are used only to indicate the amounts of these elements in a commercial fertilizer. Plants use only the elemental potassium and the phosphate ions of various soluble salts. To estimate the actual amounts of phosphorus and potas- sium that plants use, conversion factors must be applied. Q.-How many plant food elements does ammoniated superphos- phate supply? Ammoniated superphosphate is a carrier of phosphorus, ammo- nium nitrogen, and calcium. Q.-Is it possible to use too much fertilizer? Yes, it is possible to use too much fertilizer. Probably as much damage can come to plants from too much fertilizer as from too little. Burning of the plant tops and roots, and retardation of seed germination are some of the problems that arise from the use of too much fertilizer. Q.-What is a high-analysis fertilizer? A high-analysis fertilizer generally pertains to the higher grades of mixed fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10. A rule of thumb defini- tion would be any mixed fertilizer that uses double or treble superphosphate to supply the phosphorus content of the mix. Mixed fertilizers of a 9-9-9 grade, or higher, use the concen- trated superphosphate in order to obtain a 100 per cent mix without a filler. Very few high-analysis fertilizers carry a filler, whereas all low-analysis fertilizers have fillers. Q.-What is the difference between a 6-6-6 and a 12-12-12 mixed fertilizer? In the first place, the 6-6-6 is a low-analysis fertilizer and the 12-12-12 is a high-analysis fertilizer. The 12-12-12 has twice as much nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium as the 6-6-6 but contains low amounts of calcium and no sulfur. The 6-6-6 has one half as much nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium as the Q.-Do plants use phosphorus and potassium as P,O, and K,O? The terms POs and KO are the oxides of phosphorus and potassium, and they are used only to indicate the amounts of these elements in a commercial fertilizer. Plants use only the elemental potassium and the phosphate ions of various soluble salts. To estimate the actual amounts of phosphorus and potas- sium that plants use, conversion factors must be applied. Q.-How many plant food elements does ammoniated superphos- phate supply? Ammoniated superphosphate is a carrier of phosphorus, ammo- nium nitrogen, and calcium. Q.-Is it possible to use too much fertilizer? Yes, it is possible to use too much fertilizer. Probably as much damage can come to plants from too much fertilizer as from too little. Burning of the plant tops and roots, and retardation of seed germination are some of the problems that arise from the use of too much fertilizer. Q.-What is a high-analysis fertilizer? A high-analysis fertilizer generally pertains to the higher grades of mixed fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10. A rule of thumb defini- tion would be any mixed fertilizer that uses double or treble superphosphate to supply the phosphorus content of the mix. Mixed fertilizers of a 9-9-9 grade, or higher, use the concen- trated superphosphate in order to obtain a 100 per cent mix without a filler. Very few high-analysis fertilizers carry a filler, whereas all low-analysis fertilizers have fillers. Q.-What is the difference between a 6-6-6 and a 12-12-12 mixed fertilizer? In the first place, the 6-6-6 is a low-analysis fertilizer and the 12-12-12 is a high-analysis fertilizer. The 12-12-12 has twice as much nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium as the 6-6-6 but contains low amounts of calcium and no sulfur. The 6-6-6 has one half as much nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium as the  92 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 12-12-12, but it does have a large amount of sulfur and cal- cium. The reason for the difference in calcium and sulfur is that the 12-12-12 fertilizer uses concentrated superphosphate made with phosphoric acid; the low-analysis uses superphos- phate made with sulfuric acid. Q.-I am told that my high-analysis fertilizer is lacking in sulfur and low in calcium. Is this true? Yes, this is true. However, a comparison should be made of the benefits of more plant food per dollar, ease of storage, physical properties, and smaller shipping expenses. In other words, there is a place for both high- and low-analysis fertilizers. Understand- ing the qualities of each is of prime importance. Q.-What element does bone meal furnish, and is it the best source of this element? Bone meal furnishes a source of phosphorus. The principal advantage of bone meal is its ability to liberate available phos- phorus into the soil slowly, in very small quantities, and over a long period of time. For faster results, and at a small cost, the use of common superphosphate is recommended. Because of its long-lasting effects, bone meal is often used for potted plants. Q.-Is the nitrogen in nitrate of soda as available as the nitrogen in sulfate of ammonia? The nitrogen in nitrate of soda is available sooner, and in larger amounts, than the nitrogen in sulfate of ammonia. The reason for this is that the ammonia in the sulfate salt forms the cation NH, which has the ability to be held by the colloidal content of the soil. In soils that are not too acid, this ion is oxidized by soil bacteria to the same nitrate ion as found in nitrate of soda. Both of these fertilizers are excellent nitrogen top-dressers and have their place for special conditions of plants and soils. Q.-Is sodium nitrate preferred to calcium nitrate as a source of nitrogen? If calcium nitrate were not so hygroscopic (becoming wet when 92 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 12-12-12, but it does have a large amount of sulfur and cal- cium. The reason for the difference in calcium and sulfur is that the 12-12-12 fertilizer uses concentrated superphosphate made with phosphoric acid; the low-analysis uses superphos- phate made with sulfuric acid. Q.-I am told that my high-analysis fertilizer is lacking in sulfur and low in calcium. Is this true? Yes, this is true. However, a comparison should be made of the benefits of more plant food per dollar, ease of storage, physical properties, and smaller shipping expenses. In other words, there is a place for both high- and low-analysis fertilizers. Understand- ing the qualities of each is of prime importance. Q.-What element does bone meal furnish, and is it the best source of this element? Bone meal furnishes a source of phosphorus. The principal advantage of bone meal is its ability to liberate available phos- phorus into the soil slowly, in very small quantities, and over a long period of time. For faster results, and at a small cost, the use of common superphosphate is recommended. Because of its long-lasting effects, bone meal is often used for potted plants. Q.-Is the nitrogen in nitrate of soda as available as the nitrogen in sulfate of ammonia? The nitrogen in nitrate of soda is available sooner, and in larger amounts, than the nitrogen in sulfate of ammonia. The reason for this is that the ammonia in the sulfate salt forms the cation NH, which has the ability to be held by the colloidal content of the soil. In soils that are not too acid, this ion is oxidized by soil bacteria to the same nitrate ion as found in nitrate of soda. Both of these fertilizers are excellent nitrogen top-dressers and have their place for special conditions of plants and soils. Q.-Is sodium nitrate preferred to calcium nitrate as a source of nitrogen? If calcium nitrate were not so hygroscopic (becoming wet when 92 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs 12-12-12, but it does have a large amount of sulfur and cal- cium. The reason for the difference in calcium and sulfur is that the 12-12-12 fertilizer uses concentrated superphosphate made with phosphoric acid; the low-analysis uses superphos- phate made with sulfuric acid. Q.-I am told that my high-analysis fertilizer is lacking in sulfur and low in calcium. Is this true? Yes, this is true. However, a comparison should be made of the benefits of more plant food per dollar, ease of storage, physical properties, and smaller shipping expenses. In other words, there is a place for both high- and low-analysis fertilizers. Understand- ing the qualities of each is of prime importance. Q.-What element does bone meal furnish, and is it the best source of this element? Bone meal furnishes a source of phosphorus. The principal advantage of bone meal is its ability to liberate available phos- phorus into the soil slowly, in very small quantities, and over a long period of time. For faster results, and at a small cost, the use of common superphosphate is recommended. Because of its long-lasting effects, bone meal is often used for potted plants. Q.-Is the nitrogen in nitrate of soda as available as the nitrogen in sulfate of ammonia? The nitrogen in nitrate of soda is available sooner, and in larger amounts, than the nitrogen in sulfate of ammonia. The reason for this is that the ammonia in the sulfate salt forms the cation NH, which has the ability to be held by the colloidal content of the soil. In soils that are not too acid, this ion is oxidized by soil bacteria to the same nitrate ion as found in nitrate of soda. Both of these fertilizers are excellent nitrogen top-dressers and have their place for special conditions of plants and soils. Q.-Is sodium nitrate preferred to calcium nitrate as a source of nitrogen? If calcium nitrate were not so hygroscopic (becoming wet when  FERTILIZERS 93 exposed to the atmosphere), it would be an excellent source of both nitrogen and calcium. Because of its drier nature and lower initial cost, sodium nitrate is preferred. Both of these fertilizers supply approximately the same amount of quickly available nitrogen. Q.-Is it possible to mix and apply both liming materials and fertilizers at the same time? This depends on the kind of lime used. The more active lime material, such as hydrated lime, would not be suitable. Dolomite or dolomitic limestone, which is the least active, is quite satis- factory. Actually, ground dolomite makes one of the best fillers used in mixed fertilizers. Of course, any liming material may be applied separately from mixed fertilizers at any time. On the other hand, it is best to apply lime well ahead of planting. Q.-What are the common carriers of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and what determines their use in mixed ferti- lizers? Cost, physical characteristics, and solubility are the principal factors that determine the use of certain carriers of these elements for fertilizer mixtures. The most common carriers are listed as follows: Nitrogen: Nitrate of soda Sulfate of ammonia Ammonium nitrate Phosphorus: Superphosphate, either common or treble Potassium: Muriate of potash Sulfate of potash Q.-What is a supplemental application of fertilizer? This refers to any fertilizer applied in amounts beyond the basic recommendation of a complete fertilizer. A good example of a supplemental fertilizer is the commonly recommended top- dressing of sodium nitrate. The amount of available nitrogen in the top-dressing or side-dressing is in excess of the basic appli- cation of fertilizer which includes some nitrogen. FERTILIZERS 93 exposed to the atmosphere), it would be an excellent source of both nitrogen and calcium. Because of its drier nature and lower initial cost, sodium nitrate is preferred. Both of these fertilizers supply approximately the same amount of quickly available nitrogen. Q.-Is it possible to mix and apply both liming materials and fertilizers at the same time? This depends on the kind of lime used. The more active lime material, such as hydrated lime, would not be suitable. Dolomite or dolomitic limestone, which is the least active, is quite satis- factory. Actually, ground dolomite makes one of the best fillers used in mixed fertilizers. Of course, any liming material may be applied separately from mixed fertilizers at any time. On the other hand, it is best to apply lime well ahead of planting. Q.-What are the common carriers of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and what determines their use in mixed ferti- lizers? Cost, physical characteristics, and solubility are the principal factors that determine the use of certain carriers of these elements for fertilizer mixtures. The most common carriers are listed as follows: Nitrogen: Nitrate of soda Sulfate of ammonia Ammonium nitrate Phosphorus: Superphosphate, either common or treble Potassium: Muriate of potash Sulfate of potash Q.-What is a supplemental application of fertilizer? This refers to any fertilizer applied in amounts beyond the basic recommendation of a complete fertilizer. A good example of a supplemental fertilizer is the commonly recommended top- dressing of sodium nitrate. The amount of available nitrogen in the top-dressing or side-dressing is in excess of the basic appli- cation of fertilizer which includes some nitrogen. FERTILIZERS 93 exposed to the atmosphere), it would be an excellent source of both nitrogen and calcium. Because of its drier nature and lower initial cost, sodium nitrate is preferred. Both of these fertilizers supply approximately the same amount of quickly available nitrogen. Q.-Is it possible to mix and apply both liming materials and fertilizers at the same time? This depends on the kind of lime used. The more active lime material, such as hydrated lime, would not be suitable. Dolomite or dolomitic limestone, which is the least active, is quite satis- factory. Actually, ground dolomite makes one of the best fillers used in mixed fertilizers. Of course, any liming material may be applied separately from mixed fertilizers at any time. On the other hand, it is best to apply lime well ahead of planting. Q.-What are the common carriers of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and what determines their use in mixed ferti- lizers? Cost, physical characteristics, and solubility are the principal factors that determine the use of certain carriers of these elements for fertilizer mixtures. The most common carriers are listed as follows: Nitrogen: Nitrate of soda Sulfate of ammonia Ammonium nitrate Phosphorus: Superphosphate, either common or treble Potassium: Muriate of potash Sulfate of potash Q.-What is a supplemental application of fertilizer? This refers to any fertilizer applied in amounts beyond the basic recommendation of a complete fertilizer. A good example of a supplemental fertilizer is the commonly recommended top- dressing of sodium nitrate. The amount of available nitrogen in the top-dressing or side-dressing is in excess of the basic appli- cation of fertilizer which includes some nitrogen.  94 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 94 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-What is meant by a basic recommendation of fertilizer? This refers to a complete recommendation of mixed fertilizer for a full growing season. To compensate for sandy soils and heavy rains, the basic recommendation is often split into two or three parts and applied at intervals. Q.-What are the lime elements? Calcium and magnesium make up the lime elements. Q.-Does the kind of fertilizer used on a garden affect the taste of vegetables? There is no evidence to show that fertilizer changes the taste of vegetables in any way. Other environmental factors and vegetable varieties govern the taste of vegetables. Q.-I have a very small garden. Can you suggest a satisfactory way for applying fertilizer? Hand applications of mixed fertilizers are quite satisfactory for small gardens. One of the best ways to apply the initial appli- cation of fertilizer is to dig a small furrow for the seed or plants, spread the recommended amount of fertilizer in the furrow, and cover with an inch or two of soil. A more expensive way is to broadcast the recommended amount of mixed fertilizer, and disk or rake it into the loose soil prior to seeding or setting plants. The required side-dressing of fertilizer can be sprinkled in a band 2 to 3 in. away from the plant on both sides. Q.-Are there any fertilizers that include insecticides in their mixture? Several commercial fertilizers contain chlordane. When mixed with the soil or broadcast on the surface, the chlordane helps to free the soil of ants and related insects. Q.-Are wood ashes acid or alkaline? Wood ashes are alkaline in nature. Hardwoods, especially ash, are relatively high in potassium. When these hardwoods are burned, the alkali metals, particularly potassium, form soluble Q.-What is meant by a basic recommendation of fertilizer? This refers to a complete recommendation of mixed fertilizer for a full growing season. To compensate for sandy soils and heavy rains, the basic recommendation is often split into two or three parts and applied at intervals. Q.-What are the lime elements? Calcium and magnesium make up the lime elements. Q.-Does the kind of fertilizer used on a garden affect the taste of vegetables? There is no evidence to show that fertilizer changes the taste of vegetables in any way. Other environmental factors and vegetable varieties govern the taste of vegetables. Q.-I have a very small garden. Can you suggest a satisfactory way for applying fertilizer? Hand applications of mixed fertilizers are quite satisfactory for small gardens. One of the best ways to apply the initial appli- cation of fertilizer is to dig a small furrow for the seed or plants, spread the recommended amount of fertilizer in the furrow, and cover with an inch or two of soil. A more expensive way is to broadcast the recommended amount of mixed fertilizer, and disk or rake it into the loose soil prior to seeding or setting plants. The required side-dressing of fertilizer can be sprinkled in a band 2 to 3 in. away from the plant on both sides. Q.-Are there any fertilizers that include insecticides in their mixture? Several commercial fertilizers contain chlordane. When mixed with the soil or broadcast on the surface, the chlordane helps to free the soil of ants and related insects. Q.-Are wood ashes acid or alkaline? Wood ashes are alkaline in nature. Hardwoods, especially ash, are relatively high in potassium. When these hardwoods are burned, the alkali metals, particularly potassium, form soluble 94 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-What is meant by a basic recommendation of fertilizer? This refers to a complete recommendation of mixed fertilizer for a full growing season. To compensate for sandy soils and heavy rains, the basic recommendation is often split into two or three parts and applied at intervals. Q.-What are the lime elements? Calcium and magnesium make up the lime elements. Q.-Does the kind of fertilizer used on a garden affect the taste of vegetables? There is no evidence to show that fertilizer changes the taste of vegetables in any way. Other environmental factors and vegetable varieties govern the taste of vegetables. Q.-I have a very small garden. Can you suggest a satisfactory way for applying fertilizer? Hand applications of mixed fertilizers are quite satisfactory for small gardens. One of the best ways to apply the initial appli- cation of fertilizer is to dig a small furrow for the seed or plants, spread the recommended amount of fertilizer in the furrow, and cover with an inch or two of soil. A more expensive way is to broadcast the recommended amount of mixed fertilizer, and disk or rake it into the loose soil prior to seeding or setting plants. The required side-dressing of fertilizer can be sprinkled in a band 2 to 3 in. away from the plant on both sides. Q.-Are there any fertilizers that include insecticides in their mixture? Several commercial fertilizers contain chlordane. When mixed with the soil or broadcast on the surface, the chlordane helps to free the soil of ants and related insects. Q.-Are wood ashes acid or alkaline? Wood ashes are alkaline in nature. Hardwoods, especially ash, are relatively high in potassium. When these hardwoods are burned, the alkali metals, particularly potassium, form soluble  FERTILIZERS 95 oxides. As well as adding potassium, calcium, and magnesium to the soil, wood ashes may be used to correct soil acidity. Q.-What is meant by an acid-forming fertilizer? Any fertilizer that leaves an acid residue in the soil after appli- cation would be termed an acid-forming fertilizer. Some fertilizers are acid-forming, some neutral, and some alkaline-forming. Fer- tilizers may be mixed to meet any of the above needs. Q.-What is meant by neutral copper spray and copper sulfate spray? The principal difference between neutral copper and copper sul- fate, when used as sprays, is the degree of acidity of these sprays. Straight copper sulfate in distilled water is very acid, having a reaction of about pH 3, or less. The acidity itself could burn tender leaves. When copper sulfate is mixed with some form of lime, the acidity is neutralized and it becomes much safer to use on plants. Bordeaux mixture is such a spray. Q.-Is mixed fertilizer any good after it has become old and hardened? The principal change in the old fertilizer is in its physical con- dition. A mixed fertilizer that has hardened or caked is difficult to spread evenly. Prior to spreading, it should be crushed into as fine a material as possible. Q.-Why should I buy fertilizer by the cost per pound of plant food rather than cost per pound of fertilizer? There are hundreds of grades of mixed fertilizers in Florida. A grade of 4-7-5 mixed fertilizer has only 16 lbs. of plant food in a 100-lb. sack. In the same size sack, a grade of 10-10-10 has 30 lbs. of plant food. The cost for the two sacks is nearly the same, yet the 10-10-10 has almost twice as much actual nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium present in the sack of ferti- lizer. The 4-7-5 fertilizer will have over 30 lbs. of filler and the 10-10-10 will have no filler at all. FERTILIZERS 95 FERTILIZERS 95 oxides. As well as adding potassium, calcium, and magnesium to the soil, wood ashes may be used to correct soil acidity. Q.-What is meant by an acid-forming fertilizer? Any fertilizer that leaves an acid residue in the soil after appli- cation would be termed an acid-forming fertilizer. Some fertilizers are acid-forming, some neutral, and some alkaline-forming. Fer- tilizers may be mixed to meet any of the above needs. Q.-What is meant by neutral copper spray and copper sulfate spray? The principal difference between neutral copper and copper sul- fate, when used as sprays, is the degree of acidity of these sprays. Straight copper sulfate in distilled water is very acid, having a reaction of about pH 3, or less. The acidity itself could burn tender leaves. When copper sulfate is mixed with some form of lime, the acidity is neutralized and it becomes much safer to use on plants. Bordeaux mixture is such a spray. Q.-Is mixed fertilizer any good after it has become old and hardened? The principal change in the old fertilizer is in its physical con- dition. A mixed fertilizer that has hardened or caked is difficult to spread evenly. Prior to spreading, it should be crushed into as fine a material as possible. Q.-Why should I buy fertilizer by the cost per pound of plant food rather than cost per pound of fertilizer? There are hundreds of grades of mixed fertilizers in Florida. A grade of 4-7-5 mixed fertilizer has only 16 lbs. of plant food in a 100-lb. sack. In the same size sack, a grade of 10-10-10 has 30 lbs. of plant food. The cost for the two sacks is nearly the same, yet the 10-10-10 has almost twice as much actual nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium present in the sack of ferti- lizer. The 4-7-5 fertilizer will have over 30 lbs. of filler and the 10-10-10 will have no filler at all. oxides. As well as adding potassium, calcium, and magnesium to the soil, wood ashes may be used to correct soil acidity. Q.-What is meant by an acid-forming fertilizer? Any fertilizer that leaves an acid residue in the soil after appli- cation would be termed an acid-forming fertilizer. Some fertilizers are acid-forming, some neutral, and some alkaline-forming. Fer- tilizers may be mixed to meet any of the above needs. Q.-What is meant by neutral copper spray and copper sulfate spray? The principal difference between neutral copper and copper sul- fate, when used as sprays, is the degree of acidity of these sprays. Straight copper sulfate in distilled water is very acid, having a reaction of about pH 3, or less. The acidity itself could burn tender leaves. When copper sulfate is mixed with some form of lime, the acidity is neutralized and it becomes much safer to use on plants. Bordeaux mixture is such a spray. Q.-Is mixed fertilizer any good after it has become old and hardened? The principal change in the old fertilizer is in its physical con- dition. A mixed fertilizer that has hardened or caked is difficult to spread evenly. Prior to spreading, it should be crushed into as fine a material as possible. Q.-Why should I buy fertilizer by the cost per pound of plant food rather than cost per pound of fertilizer? There are hundreds of grades of mixed fertilizers in Florida. A grade of 4-7-5 mixed fertilizer has only 16 lbs. of plant food in a 100-lb. sack. In the same size sack, a grade of 10-10-10 has 30 lbs. of plant food. The cost for the two sacks is nearly the same, yet the 10-10-10 has almost twice as much actual nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium present in the sack of ferti- lizer. The 4-7-5 fertilizer will have over 30 lbs. of filler and the 10-10-10 will have no filler at all.  96 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-Am I getting a bargain when I pay $3.00 for 100 lbs. of 2-4-4 mixed fertilizer? You are paying $3.00 for 10 lbs. of plant food in a 100-lb. bag. For the same money, you can get more than three times as much plant food by purchasing a high-analysis fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 or a 10-20-20. Q.-Why is fertilizer needed for so many Florida soils? Florida mineral soils are sandy and are located in a humid region where heavy rainfall has leached out most of the fertility value. Missing plant food nutrients must be replaced if cultivated crops are to be grown. Q.-What is a 16-0-0 fertilizer? This means a fertilizer with no phosphorus or potassium but with 16 per cent of nitrogen. Nitrate of soda has 16 per cent of nitrogen, and is classified as a top-dressing or side-dressing fertilizer. Q.-What is meant by the numbers 8-8-8 on a fertilizer tag? All the figures are expressed as percentage. The first figure is the total percentage of nitrogen or 8 lbs. in a 100-1b. bag. The second figure is the percentage of phosphoric acid and the last figure is the percentage of potash. The symbols for this fertilizer are N-P2OrK2O. Q.-Does it make any difference whether I use an 8-8-8 or an 0-10-20 on my garden? It makes a big difference. The 8-8-8 is a high nitrogen mixed fertilizer and the 0-10-20 has no nitrogen in its mixture. The 8-8-8 is a popular garden fertilizer for a large variety of crops; the 0-10-20 is a popular legume fertilizer, especially for clover or clover grass mixtures. The 0-10-20 is also a popular mixed fertilizer for organic soils. Q.-There seem to be hundreds of different fertilizer formulas. Do I need to know and use all of them? For the practical gardener, only a few of the most popular 96 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-Am I getting a bargain when I pay $3.00 for 100 lbs. of 2-4-4 mixed fertilizer? You are paying $3.00 for 10 lbs. of plant food in a 100-lb. bag. For the same money, you can get more than three times as much plant food by purchasing a high-analysis fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 or a 10-20-20. Q.-Why is fertilizer needed for so many Florida soils? Florida mineral soils are sandy and are located in a humid region where heavy rainfall has leached out most of the fertility value. Missing plant food nutrients must be replaced if cultivated crops are to be grown. Q.-What is a 16-0-0 fertilizer? This means a fertilizer with no phosphorus or potassium but with 16 per cent of nitrogen. Nitrate of soda has 16 per cent of nitrogen, and is classified as a top-dressing or side-dressing fertilizer. Q.-What is meant by the numbers 8-8-8 on a fertilizer tag? All the figures are expressed as percentage. The first figure is the total percentage of nitrogen or 8 lbs. in a 100-lb. bag. The second figure is the percentage of phosphoric acid and the last figure is the percentage of potash. The symbols for this fertilizer are N-P2OrK2O. Q.-Does it make any difference whether I use an 8-8-8 or an 0-10-20 on my garden? It makes a big difference. The 8-8-8 is a high nitrogen mixed fertilizer and the 0-10-20 has no nitrogen in its mixture. The 8-8-8 is a popular garden fertilizer for a large variety of crops; the 0-10-20 is a popular legume fertilizer, especially for clover or clover grass mixtures. The 0-10-20 is also a popular mixed fertilizer for organic soils. Q.-There seem to be hundreds of different fertilizer formulas. Do I need to know and use all of them? For the practical gardener, only a few of the most popular 96 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-Am I getting a bargain when I pay $3.00 for 100 lbs. of 2-4-4 mixed fertilizer? You are paying $3.00 for 10 lbs, of plant food in a 100-lb. bag. For the same money, you can get more than three times as much plant food by purchasing a high-analysis fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 or a 10-20-20. Q.-Why is fertilizer needed for so many Florida soils? Florida mineral soils are sandy and are located in a humid region where heavy rainfall has leached out most of the fertility value. Missing plant food nutrients must be replaced if cultivated crops are to be grown. Q.-What is a 16-0-0 fertilizer? This means a fertilizer with no phosphorus or potassium but with 16 per cent of nitrogen. Nitrate of soda has 16 per cent of nitrogen, and is classified as a top-dressing or side-dressing fertilizer. Q.-What is meant by the numbers 8-8-8 on a fertilizer tag? All the figures are expressed as percentage. The first figure is the total percentage of nitrogen or 8 lbs. in a 100-lb. bag. The second figure is the percentage of phosphoric acid and the last figure is the percentage of potash. The symbols for this fertilizer are N-POK2,O. Q.-Does it make any difference whether I use an 8-8-8 or an 0-10-20 on my garden? It makes a big difference. The 8-8-8 is a high nitrogen mixed fertilizer and the 0-10-20 has no nitrogen in its mixture. The 8-8-8 is a popular garden fertilizer for a large variety of crops; the 0-10-20 is a popular legume fertilizer, especially for clover or clover grass mixtures. The 0-10-20 is also a popular mixed fertilizer for organic soils. Q.-There seem to be hundreds of different fertilizer formulas. Do I need to know and use all of them? For the practical gardener, only a few of the most popular  FERTILIZERS 97 formulas need be used. Several popular grades of commercial fertilizer, which are stocked by all feed and seed stores, are as follows: 1. High nitrogen fertilizer, such as an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. 2. High phosphorus and potassium fertilizer such as a 4-12-12 or 4-8-8. 3. Top-dressers such as a 15-0-15, nitrate of soda, ammonium nitrate, or ammonium sulfate. Q.-Will high calcium soils induce iron deficiency? High calcium soil will induce iron deficiency. Any form of soluble iron in the soil is readily fixed, or made insoluble, when it reacts with lime. Iron sprays, or the use of chelated iron in the soil, can control iron deficiency in high calcium soils, Q.-What is the difference between sulfate of potash and muriate of potash? Sulfate of potash is potassium sulfate, or KSO,. Muriate of potash is potassium chloride, or KCl. Q.-What is the difference between nitrate of soda, sulfate of ammonia, and ammonium nitrate? There are several important differences between these nitrogen sources of available fertilizers. Ammonium nitrate contains about twice as much nitrogen as either of the other two. It also contains both the ammonium form and nitrate form of nitrogen, and is acid-forming in the soil. Nitrate of soda contains only nitrate nitrogen and is not acid-forming in the soil. Sulfate of ammonia contains only ammonium nitrogen and is acid-forming; it also contains sulfur as an additional plant food nutrient. Q.-What should I know about commercial fertilizers? Every gardener should know at least the grade, amount of plant food elements, and some differences between a high- and low- analysis mixed fertilizer. A fertilizer grade of 8-8-8 represents 8 lbs. of nitrogen, 8 lbs. of phosphoric acid, and 8 lbs. of potash in a 100-lb. bag of fertilizer. Together, this represents 24 lbs. of plant food and is classified as a low-analysis fertilizer. If the FERTILIZERS 97 formulas need be used. Several popular grades of commercial fertilizer, which are stocked by all feed and seed stores, are as follows: 1. High nitrogen fertilizer, such as an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. 2. High phosphorus and potassium fertilizer such as a 4-12-12 or 4-8-8. 3. Top-dressers such as a 15-0-15, nitrate of soda, ammonium nitrate, or ammonium sulfate. Q.-Will high calcium soils induce iron deficiency? High calcium soil will induce iron deficiency. Any form of soluble iron in the soil is readily fixed, or made insoluble, when it reacts with lime. Iron sprays, or the use of chelated iron in the soil, can control iron deficiency in high calcium soils. Q.-What is the difference between sulfate of potash and muriate of potash? Sulfate of potash is potassium sulfate, or K2SO,. Muriate of potash is potassium chloride, or KCl. Q.-What is the difference between nitrate of soda, sulfate of ammonia, and ammonium nitrate? There are several important differences between these. nitrogen sources of available fertilizers. Ammonium nitrate contains about twice as much nitrogen as either of the other two. It also contains both the ammonium form and nitrate form of nitrogen, and is acid-forming in the soil. Nitrate of soda contains only nitrate nitrogen and is not acid-forming in the soil. Sulfate of ammonia contains only ammonium nitrogen and is acid-forming; it also contains sulfur as an additional plant food nutrient. Q.-What should I know about commercial fertilizers? Every gardener should know at least the grade, amount of plant food elements, and some differences between a high- and low- analysis mixed fertilizer. A fertilizer grade of 8-8-8 represents 8 lbs. of nitrogen, 8 lbs. of phosphoric acid, and 8 lbs. of potash in a 100-lb. bag of fertilizer. Together, this represents 24 lbs. of plant food and is classified as a low-analysis fertilizer. If the FERTILIZERS 97 formulas need be used. Several popular grades of commercial fertilizer, which are stocked by all feed and seed stores, are as follows: 1. High nitrogen fertilizer, such as an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10. 2. High phosphorus and potassium fertilizer such as a 4-12-12 or 4-8-8. 3. Top-dressers such as a 15-0-15, nitrate of soda, ammonium nitrate, or ammonium sulfate. Q.-Will high calcium soils induce iron deficiency? High calcium soil will induce iron deficiency. Any form of soluble iron in the soil is readily fixed, or made insoluble, when it reacts with lime. Iron sprays, or the use of chelated iron in the soil, can control iron deficiency in high calcium soils. Q.-What is the difference between sulfate of potash and murtate of potash? Sulfate of potash is potassium sulfate, or K2SO,. Muriate of potash is potassium chloride, or KCl. Q.-What is the difference between nitrate of soda, sulfate of ammonia, and ammonium nitrate? There are several important differences between these nitrogen sources of available fertilizers. Ammonium nitrate contains about twice as much nitrogen as either of the other two. It also contains both the ammonium form and nitrate form of nitrogen, and is acid-forming in the soil. Nitrate of soda contains only nitrate nitrogen and is not acid-forming in the soil. Sulfate of ammonia contains only ammonium nitrogen and is acid-forming; it also contains sulfur as an additional plant food nutrient. Q.-What should I know about commercial fertilizers? Every gardener should know at least the grade, amount of plant food elements, and some differences between a high- and low- analysis mixed fertilizer. A fertilizer grade of 8-8-8 represents 8 lbs. of nitrogen, 8 lbs. of phosphoric acid, and 8 lbs. of potash in a 100-lb. bag of fertilizer. Together, this represents 24 lbs. of plant food and is classified as a low-analysis fertilizer. If the  98 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS fertilizer were a 10-10-10, it would be classified as a high- analysis fertilizer and contain, not 24 lbs., but 30 lbs. of plant food. Both of these mixed fertilizers cost about the same price. Q.-What is the principal difference between the fertilizer grade for clay soils and sandy soils? The principal difference is in the amount of phosphorus in the mixture. Two or three times more phosphorus is used in mixed fertilizers that are to be applied on clay soils than on sandy soils. On clay soils, the phosphorus is readily fixed, or made unavail- able to plants; thus the need for additional quantities of this plant food nutrient. Q.-Organic gardening enthusiasts claim that fruits and vege- tables grown in soil supplemented with organic fertilizers are more healthful to eat than those grown with inorganic fertilizers. Is this so? There is no valid research to confirm this. Regardless of whether the source is organic or inorganic, plants will arrange and re- arrange the 16 essential elements necessary for plant growth. Excellent fruits and vegetables are grown in the soil inorganically, organicallyeand in hydroponic solutions. They all have equal food value. - Q.-What is the virtue of water insoluble nitrogen in a mixed fertilizer? Water insoluble nitrogen is composed of one of several organic materials, such as cottonseed meal or processed tankage. When these substances are mixed with fertilizers and applied to the soil, they undergo decomposition by soil microbes which liberate a steady flow of available nitrogen for plant use. This biological process tends to counteract the loss by leaching of the more soluble inorganic forms of nitrogen. Q.-Are minor elements just as important for home gardens as they are for commercial growers? Yes, they are. Especially in Florida, where so many of our soils are quite sandy, it is not unusual to have minor-element defici- 98 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs fertilizer were a 10-10-10, it would be classified as a high- analysis fertilizer and contain, not 24 lbs., but 30 lbs. of plant food. Both of these mixed fertilizers cost about the same price. Q.-What is the principal difference between the fertilizer grade for clay soils and sandy soils? The principal difference is in the amount of phosphorus in the mixture. Two or three times more phosphorus is used in mixed fertilizers that are to be applied on clay soils than on sandy soils. On clay soils, the phosphorus is readily fixed, or made unavail- able to plants; thus the need for additional quantities of this plant food nutrient. Q.-Organic gardening enthusiasts claim that fruits and vege- tables grown in soil supplemented with organic fertilizers are more healthful to eat than those grown with inorganic fertilizers. Is this so? There is no valid research to confirm this. Regardless of whether the source is organic or inorganic, plants will arrange and re- arrange the 16 essential elements necessary for plant growth. Excellent fruits and vegetables are grown in the soil inorganically, organically) .and in hydroponic solutions. They all have equal food value. Q.-What is the virtue of water insoluble nitrogen in a mixed fertilizer? Water insoluble nitrogen is composed of one of several organic materials, such as cottonseed meal or processed tankage. When these substances are mixed with fertilizers and applied to the soil, they undergo decomposition by soil microbes which liberate a steady flow of available nitrogen for plant use. This biological process tends to counteract the loss by leaching of the more soluble inorganic forms of nitrogen. Q.-Are minor elements just as important for home gardens as they are for commercial growers? Yes, they are. Especially in Florida, where so many of our soils are quite sandy, it is not unusual to have minor-element defici- 98 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS fertilizer were a 10-10-10, it would be classified as a high- analysis fertilizer and contain, not 24 lbs., but 30 lbs. of plant food. Both of these mixed fertilizers cost about the same price. Q.-What is the principal difference between the fertilizer grade for clay soils and sandy soils? The principal difference is in the amount of phosphorus in the mixture. Two or three times more phosphorus is used in mixed fertilizers that are to be applied on clay soils than on sandy soils. On clay soils, the phosphorus is readily fixed, or made unavail- able to plants; thus the need for additional quantities of this plant food nutrient. Q.-Organic gardening enthusiasts claim that fruits and vege- tables grown in soil supplemented with organic fertilizers are more healthful to eat than those grown with inorganic fertilizers. Is this so? There is no valid research to confirm this. Regardless of whether the source is organic or inorganic, plants will arrange and re- arrange the 16 essential elements necessary for plant growth. Excellent fruits and vegetables are grown in the soil inorganically, organically and in hydroponic solutions. They all have equal food value. Q.-What is the virtue of water insoluble nitrogen in a mixed fertilizer? Water insoluble nitrogen is composed of one of several organic materials, such as cottonseed meal or processed tankage. When these substances are mixed with fertilizers and applied to the soil, they undergo decomposition by soil microbes which liberate a steady flow of available nitrogen for plant use. This biological process tends to counteract the loss by leaching of the more soluble inorganic forms of nitrogen. Q.-Are minor elements just as important for home gardens as they are for commercial growers? Yes, they are. Especially in Florida, where so many of our soils are quite sandy, it is not unusual to have minor-element defici-  FERTILIZERS 99 FERTILIZERS 99 FERTILIZERS 99 encies as iron, manganese, and possibly boron, zinc, or copper. In general, these nutrients should not be applied unless deficiency symptoms show their need and then only with great care. There is no quicker way to kill a plant than to overfertilize with minor elements. Q.-What benefits do plants gain from the application of cal- cium and magnesium on soil? These are known as the lime elements, and both are highly essential plant food nutrients. Besides their need by plants, they also have special beneficial effects on the soil. First, and most important, they are used to sweeten sour soils. Calcium and magnesium tend to cause good soil structure and thus improve aeration. They promote vigorous microbial activity in the soil. These elements aid in producing healthy white root growth. Q.-What are some of the important things that nitrogen, phos- phorus, and potassium do for plants? Some of the more obvious benefits derived by plants from these common fertilizer nutrients are: 1. Nitrogen is the foliage producer; it promotes rapid vegetative growth. 2. Phosphorus is the flower, fruit, and root producer. 3. Potassium is the plant hardener or stiffener; it promotes more turgid upright growth. It is important to remember that these major elements work as a team, each depending on the other for aid in building new plant tissue, Q.-I am told that my tomatoes, which are growing in alkaline soil, will need manganese in very small amounts. Why is this? In alkaline soil, the minor element manganese is "fixed" or made unavailable to plants. Regular fertilizer recommendations for growing tomatoes on marl soils include instructions for the proper application of manganese to these soils. encies as iron, manganese, and possibly boron, zinc, or copper. In general, these nutrients should not be applied unless deficiency symptoms show their need and then only with great care. There is no quicker way to kill a plant than to overfertilize with minor elements. Q.-What benefits do plants gain from the application of cal- cium and magnesium on soil? These are known as the lime elements, and both are highly essential plant food nutrients. Besides their need by plants, they also have special beneficial effects on the soil. First, and most important, they are used to sweeten sour soils. Calcium and magnesium tend to cause good soil structure and thus improve aeration. They promote vigorous microbial activity in the soil. These elements aid in producing healthy white root growth. Q.-What are some of the important things that nitrogen, phos- phorus, and potassium do for plants? Some of the more obvious benefits derived by plants from these common fertilizer nutrients are: 1. Nitrogen is the foliage producer; it promotes rapid vegetative growth. 2. Phosphorus is the flower, fruit, and root producer. 3. Potassium is the plant hardener or stiffener; it promotes more turgid upright growth. It is important to remember that these major elements work as a team, each depending on the other for aid in building new plant tissue. Q.-I am told that my tomatoes, which are growing in alkaline soil, will need manganese in very small amounts. Why is this? In alkaline soil, the minor element manganese is "fixed" or made unavailable to plants. Regular fertilizer recommendations for growing tomatoes on marl soils include instructions for the proper application of manganese to these soils. encies as iron, manganese, and possibly boron, zinc, or copper. In general, these nutrients should not be applied unless deficiency symptoms show their need and then only with great care. There is no quicker way to kill a plant than to overfertilize with minor elements. Q.-What benefits do plants gain from the application of cal- cium and magnesium on soil? These are known as the lime elements, and both are highly essential plant food nutrients. Besides their need by plants, they also have special beneficial effects on the soil. First, and most important, they are used to sweeten sour soils. Calcium and magnesium tend to cause good soil structure and thus improve aeration. They promote vigorous microbial activity in the soil. These elements aid in producing healthy white root growth. Q.-What are some of the important things that nitrogen, phos- phorus, and potassium do for plants? Some of the more obvious benefits derived by plants from these common fertilizer nutrients are: 1. Nitrogen is the foliage producer; it promotes rapid vegetative growth. 2. Phosphorus is the flower, fruit, and root producer. 3. Potassium is the plant hardener or stiffener; it promotes more turgid upright growth. It is important to remember that these major elements work as a team, each depending on the other for aid in building new plant tissue. Q.-I am told that my tomatoes, which are growing in alkaline soil, will need manganese in very small amounts. Why is this? In alkaline soil, the minor element manganese is "fixed" or made unavailable to plants. Regular fertilizer recommendations for growing tomatoes on marl soils include instructions for the proper application of manganese to these soils.  100 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-What are secondary plant nutrients? A term applied to fertilizers, secondary nutrients include calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Frequently, the fertilizer industry uses the term secondary nutrients to include minor elements as well. Q.-What is the difference between a nitrate of soda and a 15-0-15 top-dresser or side-dresser? Nitrate of soda specifies that the top-dresser is a nitrate nitrogen form of fertilizer. The 15-0-15 is a grade of mixed fertilizer that contains 15 per cent of nitrogen and 15 per cent of potash. By reading the tag attached to a bag of fertilizer, the kinds of ingredients may be ascertained. It could be any form of nitrogen or potassium. Q.-Do I need a special fertilizer for each vegetable grown in my home garden? It would be impractical to apply fertilizers to suit the needs of each kind of vegetable grown in a garden. Once the fertilizer is specified to fit the soil type, about the only other consideration is the need for available nitrogen for the related crops grown. For example, high nitrogen crops, such as corn grown on sandy soil, would probably receive a 1-1-1 ratio, with a generous supple- ment of nitrogen, when the corn is about knee-high. For heavy soils, this ratio may be 1-2-1. Q.-Why does the same amount of mixed fertilizer vary so much in price? There are several reasons why mixed fertilizers vary in price per pound. Sometimes the location or area affects the price; some- times the store where it is purchased. The kind and amount of plant food elements make some difference in the price per pound. Mixed fertilizers, having high contents of organic nitro- gen, are higher in price than those with strictly inorganic sources of nitrogen. The trade name, or any supplemental material added to the fertilizer, may add to its price per pound. All of these reasons indicates that a careful study of the fertilizer tag is important prior to purchasing a mixed fertilizer. 100 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 100 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-What are secondary plant nutrients? A term applied to fertilizers, secondary nutrients include calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Frequently, the fertilizer industry uses the term secondary nutrients to include minor elements as well. Q.-What is the difference between a nitrate of soda and a 15-0-15 top-dresser or side-dresser? Nitrate of soda specifies that the top-dresser is a nitrate nitrogen form of fertilizer. The 15-0-15 is a grade of mixed fertilizer that contains 15 per cent of nitrogen and 15 per cent of potash. By reading the tag attached to a bag of fertilizer, the kinds of ingredients may be ascertained. It could be any form of nitrogen or potassium. Q.-Do I need a special fertilizer for each vegetable grown in my home garden? It would be impractical to apply fertilizers to suit the needs of each kind of vegetable grown in a garden. Once the fertilizer is specified to fit the soil type, about the only other consideration is the need for available nitrogen for the related crops grown. For example, high nitrogen crops, such as corn grown on sandy soil, would probably receive a 1-1-1 ratio, with a generous supple- ment of nitrogen, when the corn is about knee-high. For heavy soils, this ratio may be 1-2-1. Q.-Why does the same amount of mixed fertilizer vary so much in price? There are several reasons why mixed fertilizers vary in price per pound. Sometimes the location or area affects the price; some- times the store where it is purchased. The kind and amount of plant food elements make some difference in the price per pound. Mixed fertilizers, having high contents of organic nitro- gen, are higher in price than those with strictly inorganic sources of nitrogen. The trade name, or any supplemental material added to the fertilizer, may add to its price per pound. All of these reasons indicates that a careful study of the fertilizer tag is important prior to purchasing a mixed fertilizer. Q.-What are secondary plant nutrients? A term applied to fertilizers, secondary nutrients include calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Frequently, the fertilizer industry uses the term secondary nutrients to include minor elements as well. Q.-What is the difference between a nitrate of soda and a 15-0-15 top-dresser or side-dresser? Nitrate of soda specifies that the top-dresser is a nitrate nitrogen form of fertilizer. The 15-0-15 is a grade of mixed fertilizer that contains 15 per cent of nitrogen and 15 per cent of potash. By reading the tag attached to a bag of fertilizer, the kinds of ingredients may be ascertained. It could be any form of nitrogen or potassium. Q.-Do I need a special fertilizer for each vegetable grown in my home garden? It would be impractical to apply fertilizers to suit the needs of each kind of vegetable grown in a garden. Once the fertilizer is specified to fit the soil type, about the only other consideration is the need for available nitrogen for the related crops grown. For example, high nitrogen crops, such as corn grown on sandy soil, would probably receive a 1-1-1 ratio, with a generous supple- ment of nitrogen, when the corn is about knee-high. For heavy soils, this ratio may be 1-2-1. Q.-Why does the same amount of mixed fertilizer vary so much in price? There are several reasons why mixed fertilizers vary in price per pound. Sometimes the location or area affects the price; some- times the store where it is purchased. The kind and amount of plant food elements make some difference in the price per pound. Mixed fertilizers, having high contents of organic nitro- gen, are higher in price than those with strictly inorganic sources of nitrogen. The trade name, or any supplemental material added to the fertilizer, may add to its price per pound. All of these reasons indicates that a careful study of the fertilizer tag is important prior to purchasing a mixed fertilizer.  FERTILIZERS 101 Q.-I use "Blank-Blank" brand of fertilizer. Is this the best? The best procedure in purchasing a good fertilizer is to make a careful study of the Florida fertilizer tag. This tag, required by law, contains the amounts and kinds of ingredients present. There are thousands of brand names on fertilizers. For example, nitrate of soda may have many different names and colors. Q.-I have been told that poultry and cow manure are not com- plete fertilizers. What should be added to make them complete? Farm manures are not balanced fertilizers, all being too low in phosphorus, and some low in potassium. A simple formula is to add 2 lbs. of common superphosphate to 1 bu. of farm manure. A more complete supplement for farm manures is to mix an 0-14-7 fertilizer with the manure at the rate of 2% lbs. to each bu. of manure. This produces the equivalent of approxi- mately 8 lbs. of a balanced fertilizer. Q.-Are minor or trace elements necessary in all fertilizers? This depends on the kind of plant and the type of soil. In general, trace or minor elements are not needed in all fertilizers used. Some plants have less need for minor elements than others; some soils have adequate supplies of minor elements 'present for normal plant growth. Q.-I have been advised to use a fertilizer with one-half the nitrogen in organic form. What does this mean? This means that one-half of the nitrogen listed on the fertilizer tag is derived from organic source. For example, if the fertilizer is a 10-10-10, then 5 per cent of the nitrogen will be in organic form. Q.-Why do some fertilizers have some organic material in their mixture? The amount of organic material in a fertilizer mixture may be specified or may be required for certain plants. Organic material is added to a mixture of fertilizers in order to give plants a steady FERTILIZERS 101 Q.-I use "Blank-Blank" brand of fertilizer. Is this the best? The best procedure in purchasing a good fertilizer is to make a careful study of the Florida fertilizer tag. This tag, required by law, contains the amounts and kinds of ingredients present. There are thousands of brand names on fertilizers. For example, nitrate of soda may have many different names and colors. Q.-I have been told that poultry and cow manure are not com- plete fertilizers. What should be added to make them complete? Farm manures are not balanced fertilizers, all being too low in phosphorus, and some low in potassium. A simple formula is to add 2 lbs. of common superphosphate to 1 bu. of farm manure. A more complete supplement for farm manures is to mix an 0-14-7 fertilizer with the manure at the rate of 2% lbs. to each bu. of manure. This produces the equivalent of approxi- mately 8 lbs. of a balanced fertilizer. Q.-Are minor or trace elements necessary in all fertilizers? This depends on the kind of plant and the type of soil. In general, trace or minor elements are not needed in all fertilizers used. Some plants have less need for minor elements than others; some soils have adequate supplies of minor elements 'present for normal plant growth. Q.-I have been advised to use a fertilizer with one-half the nitrogen in organic form. What does this mean? This means that one-half of the nitrogen listed on the fertilizer tag is derived from organic source. For example, if the fertilizer is a 10-10-10, then 5 per cent of the nitrogen will be in organic form. Q.-Why do some fertilizers have some organic material in their mixture? The amount of organic material in a fertilizer mixture may be specified or may be required for certain plants. Organic material is added to a mixture of fertilizers in order to give plants a steady FERTILIZERS 101 Q.-I use "Blank-Blank" brand of fertilizer. Is this the best? The best procedure in purchasing a good fertilizer is to make a careful study of the Florida fertilizer tag. This tag, required by law, contains the amounts and kinds of ingredients present. There are thousands of brand names on fertilizers. For example, nitrate of soda may have many different names and colors. Q.-I have been told that poultry and cow manure are not com- plete fertilizers. What should be added to make them complete? Farm manures are not balanced fertilizers, all being too low in phosphorus, and some low in potassium. A simple formula is to add 2 lbs. of common superphosphate to 1 bu. of farm manure. A more complete supplement for farm manures is to mix an 0-14-7 fertilizer with the manure at the rate of 2% lbs. to each bu. of manure. This produces the equivalent of approxi- mately 8 lbs. of a balanced fertilizer. Q.-Are minor or trace elements necessary in all fertilizers? This depends on the kind of plant and the type of soil. In general, trace or minor elements are not needed in all fertilizers used. Some plants have less need for minor elements than others; some soils have adequate supplies of minor elements 'present for normal plant growth. Q.-I have been advised to use a fertilizer with one-half the nitrogen in organic form. What does this mean? This means that one-half of the nitrogen listed on the fertilizer tag is derived from organic source. For example, if the fertilizer is a 10-10-10, then 5 per cent of the nitrogen will be in organic form. Q.-Why do some fertilizers have some organic material in their mixture? The amount of organic material in a fertilizer mixture may be specified or may be required for certain plants. Organic material is added to a mixture of fertilizers in order to give plants a steady  102 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 102 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 102 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS source of available nitrogen during the growing period. As the nitrogen is decomposed by the soil microbes, it is slowly liberated. Q.-Is there one grade of commercial fertilizer that can be used on all shrubs, trees, vegetables, and grass with reasonable success? Except for acid-demanding plants, most garden plants do well with a 1-1-1 ratio. This ratio includes such fertilizers as a 6-6-6, 8-8-8, or 9-9-9. In order to insure adequate amounts of calcium and sulfur, it is sometimes advisable to use these low-analysis fertilizers. Q.-What is a complete plant food? A complete plant food contains all the major and minor elements. This constitutes all 16 plant food elements. Oftentimes the term complete plant food is applied to only the nitrogen-phosphorus- potassium of the regular commercial fertilizers. Q.-What are the principal plant food nutrients found in wood ashes? Calcium and potassium. The amount and proportion of each depend on the kind of tree that the ashes came from. For soft woods, the calcium content will be higher than potassium; for most hard woods, the potassium content will be the highest. The word potash is derived from the name of the ash tree. The pot was the old kettle used to make soft soap from the ash wood ashes. Ash wood ashes were used because they contained over 10 per cent of potassium. source of available nitrogen during the growing period. As the nitrogen is decomposed by the soil microbes, it is slowly liberated. Q.-Is there one grade of commercial fertilizer that can be used on all shrubs, trees, vegetables, and grass with reasonable success? Except for acid-demanding plants, most garden plants do well with a 1-1-1 ratio. This ratio includes such fertilizers as a 6-6-6, 8-8-8, or 9-9-9. In order to insure adequate amounts of calcium and sulfur, it is sometimes advisable to use these low-analysis fertilizers. Q.-What is a complete plant food? A complete plant food contains all the major and minor elements. This constitutes all 16 plant food elements. Oftentimes the term complete plant food is applied to only the nitrogen-phosphorus- potassium of the regular commercial fertilizers. Q.-What are the principal plant food nutrients found in wood ashes? Calcium and potassium. The amount and proportion of each depend on the kind of tree that the ashes came from. For soft woods, the calcium content will be higher than potassium; for most hard woods, the potassium content will be the highest. The word potash is derived from the name of the ash tree. The pot was the old kettle used to make soft soap from the ash wood ashes. Ash wood ashes were used because they contained over 10 per cent of potassium. source of available nitrogen during the growing period. As the nitrogen is decomposed by the soil microbes, it is slowly liberated. Q.-Is there one grade of commercial fertilizer that can be used on all shrubs, trees, vegetables, and grass with reasonable success? Except for acid-demanding plants, most garden plants do well with a 1-1-1 ratio. This ratio includes such fertilizers as a 6-6-6, 8-8-8, or 9-9-9. In order to insure adequate amounts of calcium and sulfur, it is sometimes advisable to use these low-analysis fertilizers. Q.-What is a complete plant food? A complete plant food contains all the major and minor elements. This constitutes all 16 plant food elements. Oftentimes the term complete plant food is applied to only the nitrogen-phosphorus- potassium of the regular commercial fertilizers. Q.-What are the principal plant food nutrients found in wood ashes? Calcium and potassium. The amount and proportion of each depend on the kind of tree that the ashes came from. For soft woods, the calcium content will be higher than potassium; for most hard woods, the potassium content will be the highest. The word potash is derived from the name of the ash tree. The pot was the old kettle used to make soft soap from the ash wood ashes. Ash wood ashes were used because they contained over 10 per cent of potassium.  SEVEN X X SEVEN X, X SEVEN X Testing and Control of Acidity Q.-Do I need a complete soil test for my garden? A complete soil test indicates that both major and minor elements are tested for. For most gardens, only the major elements and pH test are necessary. For many gardens, only the pH test need be made. Q.-Is it practical for a small gardener to test his soil? Probably the only soil test that would be practical for a home gardener to conduct would be the soil reaction or pH test. For soil tests of fertilizer elements, it would be more satisfactory to send soil samples for testing to the County Agricultural Agent's office. Q.-I have been advised that the soil in my yard will not test the same in all spots. If so, how can I take a satisfactory soil sample? This is true. A dozen or more soil samples should be taken and thoroughly mixed in a clean container. A portion of this com- posite sample is used for soil testing. (See page 143.) 103 Testing and Control of Acidity Q.-Do I need a complete soil test for my garden? A complete soil test indicates that both major and minor elements are tested for. For most gardens, only the major elements and pH test are necessary. For many gardens, only the pH test need be made. Q.-Is it practical for a small gardener to test his soil? Probably the only soil test that would be practical for a home gardener to conduct would be the soil reaction or pH test. For soil tests of fertilizer elements, it would be more satisfactory to send soil samples for testing to the County Agricultural Agent's office. Q.-I have been advised that the soil in my yard will not test the same in all spots. If so, how can I take a satisfactory soil sample? This is true. A dozen or more soil samples should be taken and thoroughly mixed in a clean container. A portion of this com- posite sample is used for soil testing. (See page 143.) 103 Testing and Control of Acidity Q.-Do I need a complete soil test for my garden? A complete soil test indicates that both major and minor elements are tested for. For most gardens, only the major elements and pH test are necessary. For many gardens, only the pH test need be made. Q.-Is it practical for a small gardener to test his soil? Probably the only soil test that would be practical for a home gardener to conduct would be the soil reaction or pH test. For soil tests of fertilizer elements, it would be more satisfactory to send soil samples for testing to the County Agricultural Agent's office. Q.-I have been advised that the soil in my yard will not test the same in all spots. If so, how can I take a satisfactory soil sample? This is true. A dozen or more soil samples should be taken and thoroughly mixed in a clean container. A portion of this com- posite sample is used for soil testing. (See page 143.) 103  A B A SOIL SAMPLE IS TAKEN FROM SEVERAL LOCATIONS IN A GARDEN. A B A A SOIL SAMPLE IS TAKEN FROM SEVERAL LOCATIONS IN A GARDEN. A SOIL SAMPLE IS TAKEN FROM SEVERAL LOCATIONS IN A GARDEN. 6 INCHES WITH SAMPLING TUBE... C '''''''''''E'11 "'' HC OR WITH SPADE. TO MAKE A COMPOSITE SAMPLE FOR SOIL TESTING, MIX SOIL SAMPLES TOGETHER IN A CLEAN BUCKET. SAVE ONE PINT FOR THE TEST. WITH SAMPLING TUBE... C "''LSLICE 1/2" THICK OR WITH SPADE. TO MAKE A COMPOSITE SAMPLE FOR SOIL TESTING, MIX SOIL SAMPLES TOGETHER IN A CLEAN BUCKET. SAVE ONE PINT FOR THE TEST. B 6 INCHES WITH SAMPLING TUBE... C SO1L SLICE 1/2" THICK OR WITH SPADE. TO MAKE A COMPOSITE SAMPLE FOR SOIL TESTING, MIX SOIL SAMPLES TOGETHER IN A CLEAN BUCKET. SAVE ONE PINT FOR THE TEST.  TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY 105 Q.-Where can I get my soil tested and what does the test include? See your County Agricultural Agent for the necessary informa- tion. These tests generally include texture, pH, lime, and ferti- lizer elements. Q.-Does the state of Florida have a soil testing service? The state of Florida maintains an excellent soil testing service. All soil testing is carried on through the channels of the County Agricultural Agent's office which receives the soil sample and sends it to the State Soil Testing Service. The completed test is returned to the County Agent's office where it is discussed with the person requesting it. Q.--How can I best understand and use my soil test report? Even if you have soil tested without going through your County Agent's office, take the report directly to him. He will be happy to study it and give you the best advice available. Q.-I have been told that a soil test is only as good as the soil sample. Why is this so? This is a true statement. Only 5 to 10 grams of soil are used to conduct a soil test representing up to one acre of soil 6 in. deep. The soil sample should be taken from several locations in the garden and mixed thoroughly together. From this composite mixture are taken the screened 5 grams of soil. You can readily see that the chemical analysis conducted on this small portion is only as good as the soil sample. Q.-Will a soil test answer all questions regarding my plant problems? In the hands of a trained agriculturist, a soil test is a useful tool, but answers only part of the many problems related to the growth of plants. Such important factors as light, water, temperature, pests, and tilth must also be considered. TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY 105 Q.-Where can I get my soil tested and what does the test include? See your County Agricultural Agent for the necessary informa- tion. These tests generally include texture, pH, lime, and ferti- lizer elements. Q.--Does the state of Florida have a soil testing service? The state of Florida maintains an excellent soil testing service. All soil testing is carried on through the channels of the County Agricultural Agent's office which receives the soil sample and sends it to the State Soil Testing Service. The completed test is returned to the County Agent's office where it is discussed with the person requesting it. Q.-How can I best understand and use my soil test report? Even if you have soil tested without going through your County Agent's office, take the report directly to him. He will be happy to study it and give you the best advice available. Q.-I have been told that a soil test is only as good as the soil sample. Why is this so? This is a true statement. Only 5 to 10 grams of soil are used to conduct a soil test representing up to one acre of soil 6 in. deep. The soil sample should be taken from several locations in the garden and mixed thoroughly together. From this composite mixture are taken the screened 5 grams of soil. You can readily see that the chemical analysis conducted on this small portion is only as good as the soil sample. Q.-Will a soil test answer all questions regarding my plant problems? In the hands of a trained agriculturist, a soil test is a useful tool, but answers only part of the many problems related to the growth of plants. Such important factors as light, water, temperature, pests, and tilth must also be considered. TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY 105 Q.-Where can I get my soil tested and what does the test include? See your County Agricultural Agent for the necessary informa- tion. These tests generally include texture, pH, lime, and ferti- lizer elements. Q.-Does the state of Florida have a soil testing service? The state of Florida maintains an excellent soil testing service. All soil testing is carried on through the channels of the County Agricultural Agent's office which receives the soil sample and sends it to the State Soil Testing Service. The completed test is returned to the County Agent's office where it is discussed with the person requesting it. Q.-How can I best understand and use my soil test report? Even if you have soil tested without going through your County Agent's office, take the report directly to him. He will be happy to study it and give you the best advice available. Q.-I have been told that a soil test is only as good as the soil sample. Why is this so? This is a true statement. Only 5 to 10 grams of soil are used to conduct a soil test representing up to one acre of soil 6 in. deep. The soil sample should be taken from several locations in the garden and mixed thoroughly together. From this composite mixture are taken the screened 5 grams of soil. You can readily see that the chemical analysis conducted on this small portion is only as good as the soil sample. Q.-Will a soil test answer all questions regarding my plant problems? In the hands of a trained agriculturist, a soil test is a useful tool, but answers only part of the many problems related to the growth of plants. Such important factors as light, water, temperature, pests, and tilth must also be considered.  106 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-How often should soil be tested? For good fertility management, the gardener should have the soil tested each fall. It is important to keep a record of these soil tests and a brief history of the garden management. Q.-Can I get one soil test and use it for all of my fertilizer problems? No. Only a small part of the over-all fertility problems of soils can be solved by soil testing. Fertilizer problems in soils depend on a combination of such factors as weather, kinds of plants, types of soils, moisture, temperature, and kinds and amounts of mineral elements. A reliable soil test is a useful tool which can be a help in solving fertilizer problems. The results of a good soil test are especially useful in the hands of a properly trained agriculturist. Q.-When estimating results from a soil test, why do some soil testing kits use parts per million (ppm) in the soil extract, some use parts per million in the soil, and still other kits use pounds per acre? This is unfortunate but true. There is a dire need for standard- ization in reporting results and correlating soil tests with plant growth. Depending on the dilution ratio of soil to extract, parts per million (ppm) of elements in the soil extract could be anything. Parts per million in the soil or pounds per acre do have a definite meaning and are equivalent to each other. Q.-Will a soil-testing kit help me? To anyone interested in plant growth, a simple soil pH kit, plus a good bulletin on soil acidity, will be of help. The larger soil- testing kits that test for other fertilizer elements are more useful in the hands of a trained person. If used by untrained persons, these larger kits can be more harmful than helpful. Q.-How many times each year should a pH test be made of garden soil? The pH soil test should be included with the regular complete soil test taken in the fall of the year. 106 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs 106 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-How often should soil be tested? For good fertility management, the gardener should have the soil tested each fall. It is important to keep a record of these soil tests and a brief history of the garden management. Q.-Can I get one soil test and use it for all of my fertilizer problems? No. Only a small part of the over-all fertility problems of soils can be solved by soil testing. Fertilizer problems in soils depend on a combination of such factors as weather, kinds of plants, types of soils, moisture, temperature, and kinds and amounts of mineral elements. A reliable soil test is a useful tool which can be a help in solving fertilizer problems. The results of a good soil test are especially useful in the hands of a properly trained agriculturist. Q.-When estimating results from a soil test, why do some soil testing kits use parts per million (ppm) in the soil extract, some use parts per million in the soil, and still other bits use pounds per acre? This is unfortunate but true. There is a dire need for standard- ization in reporting results and correlating soil tests with plant growth. Depending on the dilution ratio of soil to extract, parts per million (ppm) of elements in the soil extract could be anything. Parts per million in the soil or pounds per acre do have a definite meaning and are equivalent to each other. Q.-Will a soil-testing kit help me? To anyone interested in plant growth, a simple soil pH kit, plus a good bulletin on soil acidity, will be of help. The larger soil- testing kits that test for other fertilizer elements are more useful in the hands of a trained person. If used by untrained persons, these larger kits can be more harmful than helpful. Q.-How many times each year should a pH test be made of garden soil? The pH soil test should be included with the regular complete soil test taken in the fall of the year. Q.-How often should soil be tested? For good fertility management, the gardener should have the soil tested each fall. It is important to keep a record of these soil tests and a brief history of the garden management. Q.-Can I get one soil test and use it for all of my fertilizer problems? No. Only a small part of the over-all fertility problems of soils can be solved by soil testing. Fertilizer problems in soils depend on a combination of such factors as weather, kinds of plants, types of soils, moisture, temperature, and kinds and amounts of mineral elements. A reliable soil test is a useful tool which can be a help in solving fertilizer problems. The results of a good soil test are especially useful in the hands of a properly trained agriculturist. Q.-When estimating results from a soil test, why do some soil testing kits use parts per million (ppm) in the soil extract, some use parts per million in the soil, and still other kits use pounds per acre? This is unfortunate but true. There is a dire need for standard- ization in reporting results and correlating soil tests with plant growth. Depending on the dilution ratio of soil to extract, parts per million (ppm) of elements in the soil extract could be anything. Parts per million in the soil or pounds per acre do have a definite meaning and are equivalent to each other. Q.-Will a soil-testing kit help me? To anyone interested in plant growth, a simple soil pH kit, plus a good bulletin on soil acidity, will be of help. The larger soil- testing kits that test for other fertilizer elements are more useful in the hands of a trained person. If used by untrained persons, these larger kits can be more harmful than helpful. Q.-How many times each year should a pH test be made of garden soil? The pH soil test should be included with the regular complete soil test taken in the fall of the year.  TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY 107 Q.-Does the degree of acidity make much difference in the growth and yields of my home garden? The availability of other essential plant food elements is either directly or indirectly affected by the level of acidity in garden soil. Only a few garden crops do well in a very acid garden soil, whereas the majority of vegetables make their maximum yields in a soil that is only slightly acid, or at pH 6 to 7. Q.-What is the effect of acid and alkaline soils on plants? This is best explained by a typical example. When planted in soils with a pH level of 4, corn remains stunted, the reason being that the corn does not get a balanced supply of plant nutrients in the amounts needed for normal growth. This is true of almost all plants. Soils that are too acid indirectly affect the availability of several of the essential plant food elements. Q.-What is the natural cause of soil acidity? Nearly 75 per cent of all the carbon dioxide (CO,) needed for plant growth originates from the soil. Carbon dioxide is the product of respiration for plant roots and soil microbes. Large quantities of this gas combine with the moisture of the soil to form carbonic acid. It is chiefly the constant formation of this weak acid that tends to keep soils in an acid state. Q.-Why do some plants grow best in acid soils? These plants are often known as acid-loving plants. Since the elements that are more soluble in an acid medium are needed, a better name is acid-tolerant plants. A good example is the azalea. As compared to other plants, this shrub has a rather high need for iron and manganese. In many soils, the only way to insure sufficient amounts of these plant food elements for normal azalea growth is by keeping the soil acid. In sweet soils, both of these elements become unavailable quickly. Q.-What is the best soil pH for most vegetable crops? The majority of pH preference charts place garden vegetables in the bracket between pH 5.5 and 7.0. TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY 107 TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY 107 Q.-Does the degree of acidity make much difference in the growth and yields of my home garden? The availability of other essential plant food elements is either directly or indirectly affected by the level of acidity in garden soil. Only a few garden crops do well in a very acid garden soil, whereas the majority of vegetables make their maximum yields in a soil that is only slightly acid, or at pH 6 to 7. Q.-What is the effect of acid and alkaline soils on plants? This is best explained by a typical example. When planted in soils with a pH level of 4, corn remains stunted, the reason being that the corn does not get a balanced supply of plant nutrients in the amounts needed for normal growth. This is true of almost all plants. Soils that are too acid indirectly affect the availability of several of the essential plant food elements. Q.-What is the natural cause of soil acidity? Nearly 75 per cent of all the carbon dioxide (CO,) needed for plant growth originates from the soil. Carbon dioxide is the product of respiration for plant roots and soil microbes. Large quantities of this gas combine with the moisture of the soil to form carbonic acid. It is chiefly the constant formation of this weak acid that tends to keep soils in an acid state. Q.-Why do some plants grow best in acid soils? These plants are often known as acid-loving plants. Since the elements that are more soluble in an acid medium are needed, a better name is acid-tolerant plants. A good example is the azalea. As compared to other plants, this shrub has a rather high need for iron and manganese. In many soils, the only way to insure sufficient amounts of these plant food elements for normal azalea growth is by keeping the soil acid. In sweet soils, both of these elements become unavailable quickly. Q.-What is the best soil pH for most vegetable crops? The majority of pH preference charts place garden vegetables in the bracket between pH 5.5 and 7.0. Q.-Does the degree of acidity make much difference in the growth and yields of my home garden? The availability of other essential plant food elements is either directly or indirectly affected by the level of acidity in garden soil. Only a few garden crops do well in a very acid garden soil, whereas the majority of vegetables make their maximum yields in a soil that is only slightly acid, or at pH 6 to 7. Q.-What is the effect of acid and alkaline soils on plants? This is best explained by a typical example. When planted in soils with a pH level of 4, corn remains stunted, the reason being that the corn does not get a balanced supply of plant nutrients in the amounts needed for normal growth. This is true of almost all plants. Soils that are too acid indirectly affect the availability of several of the essential plant food elements. Q.-What is the natural cause of soil acidity? Nearly 75 per cent of all the carbon dioxide (CO,) needed for plant growth originates from the soil. Carbon dioxide is the product of respiration for plant roots and soil microbes. Large quantities of this gas combine with the moisture of the soil to form carbonic acid. It is chiefly the constant formation of this weak acid that tends to keep soils in an acid state. Q.-Why do some plants grow best in acid soils? These plants are often known as acid-loving plants. Since the elements that are more soluble in an acid medium are needed, a better name is acid-tolerant plants. A good example is the azalea. As compared to other plants, this shrub has a rather high need for iron and manganese. In many soils, the only way to insure sufficient amounts of these plant food elements for normal azalea growth is by keeping the soil acid. In sweet soils, both of these elements become unavailable quickly. Q.-What is the best soil pH for most vegetable crops? The majority of pH preference charts place garden vegetables in the bracket between pH 5.5 and 7.0.  108 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 108 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-Can I tell the acidity of the soil by its color? Soil color is not a good indicator of acidity. Depending on their environmental conditions and management, gray, black, brown, or red soils may be either acid or alkaline. Q.-My soil tests pH 4. What does this mean? At pH 4, your soil is very acid. Without an addition of lime, it is unsatisfactory for gardening. Briefly, pH 4 is a portion of a scale that for most soils begins about pH 3.5 and ends at about pH 8. Each unit of pH less than 7 is ten times more acid. Thus, a soil at pH 6 is ten times more acid than pH 7. A soil at pH 5 is 10 x 10 or 100 times more acid than pH 7. Q.-Can a soil have a high content of calcium and yet have a relatively low pH value? Yes, this is possible. High clay soils, mucks, and organic soils may have pH values of 5 to 5.5 and contain a plentiful supply of calcium. These soils are highly buffered and have a high relative exchange capacity. Q.-How does the pH of the soil affect the growth of plants? The pH of the soil is a measure of its acidity. The acidity of the soilinfluences growth of plants in many ways. They may be listed as iollows: 1. It helps to regulate the availability of mineral elements in the soil. 2. It is an indication of the content of calcium and magnesium. 3. It directly and indirectly affects the activity of soil microbes. 4. It is used to control certain specific plant food elements by making them available to plants. For example, the pH of the soil around azaleas is kept quite acid so that iron may be available to these plants. Q.-My garden soil tests pH 7.0. Is this too sweet for sweet corn? Corn is a crop that has a wide pH preference. This means that corn will do well from pH 5.5 to pH 7.0. Your sweet corn Q.-Can I tell the acidity of the soil by its color? Soil color is not a good indicator of acidity. Depending on their environmental conditions and management, gray, black, brown, or red soils may be either acid or alkaline. Q.-My soil tests pH 4. What does this mean? At pH 4, your soil is very acid. Without an addition of lime, it is unsatisfactory for gardening. Briefly, pH 4 is a portion of a scale that for most soils begins about pH 3.5 and ends at about pH 8. Each unit of pH less than 7 is ten times more acid. Thus, a soil at pH 6 is ten times more acid than pH 7. A soil at pH 5 is 10 x 10 or 100 times more acid than pH 7. Q.-Can a soil have a high content of calcium and yet have a relatively low pH value? Yes, this is possible. High clay soils, mucks, and organic soils may have pH values of 5 to 5.5 and contain a plentiful supply of calcium. These soils are highly buffered and have a high relative exchange capacity. Q.-How does the pH of the soil affect the growth of plants? The pH of the soil is a measure of its acidity. The acidity of the soilinfluences growth of plants in many ways. They may be listed asollows: 1. It helps to regulate the availability of mineral elements in the soil. 2. It is an indication of the content of calcium and magnesium. 3. It directly and indirectly affects the activity of soil microbes. 4. It is used to control certain specific plant food elements by making them available to plants. For example, the pH of the soil around azaleas is kept quite acid so that iron may be available to these plants. Q.-My garden soil tests pH 7.0. Is this too sweet for sweet corn? Corn is a crop that has a wide pH preference. This means that corn will do well from pH 5.5 to pH 7.0. Your sweet corn 108 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs Q.-Can I tell the acidity of the soil by its color? Soil color is not a good indicator of acidity. Depending on their environmental conditions and management, gray, black, brown, or red soils may be either acid or alkaline. Q.-My soil tests pH 4. What does this mean? At pH 4, your soil is very acid. Without an addition of lime, it is unsatisfactory for gardening. Briefly, pH 4 is a portion of a scale that for most soils begins about pH 3.5 and ends at about pH 8. Each unit of pH less than 7 is ten times more acid. Thus, a soil at pH 6 is ten times more acid than pH 7. A soil at pH 5 is 10 x 10 or 100 times more acid than pH 7. Q.-Can a soil have a high content of calcium and yet have a relatively low pH value? Yes, this is possible. High clay soils, mucks, and organic soils may have pH values of 5 to 5.5 and contain a plentiful supply of calcium. These soils are highly buffered and have a high relative exchange capacity. Q.-How does the pH of the soil affect the growth of plants? The pH of the soil is a measure of its acidity. The acidity of the soibinfluences growth of plants in many ways. They may be listed astollows: 1. It helps to regulate the availability of mineral elements in the soil. 2. It is an indication of the content of calcium and magnesium. 3. It directly and indirectly affects the activity of soil microbes. 4. It is used to control certain specific plant food elements by making them available to plants. For example, the pH of the soil around azaleas is kept quite acid so that iron may be available to these plants. Q.-My garden soil tests pH 7.0. Is this too sweet for sweet corn? Corn is a crop that has a wide pH preference. This means that corn will do well from pH 5.5 to pH 7.0. Your sweet corn  ALKALINE oy 13 pH 14 12 II 10 DESERT SOILS pH 10 9 pH 6 7 NEUTRAL POINT BEST FOR MOST PLANTS PH 6 AVERAGE FOR MOST GARDENS RAINWATER 5 4 B E T O A A EA S A N N O T H E R H SWAMP MUCKS AND PEATS .H 3R 3 42 L ACID READING THE PH SCALE ALKALINE . 13 pH 14 12 AIN I I 10 DESERT SOILS pH 10 9 ,Hp8 7 NEUTRAL POINT BEST FOR MOST PLANTS PH 6 AVERAGE FOR MOST GARDENS BEST FOR AZALEAS AND OTHER 4 ACID-DEMANDING PLANTS SWAMP MUCKS AND PEATS SH 3J 2 LIMS ACID READING THE PH SCALE ALKALINE LE 13 pH 14 12 II ra 10 pH 10 pH NS AI READIN I 5 4) S~ 3} Ll"a" ACID READING DESERT SOILS NEUTRAL POINT BEST FOR MOST PLANTS AVERAGE FOR MOST GARDENS BEST FOR AZALEAS AND OTHER ACID-DEMANDING PLANTS SWAMP MUCKS AND PEATS THE PH SCALE  110 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS should do well at pH 7, even though this would be the upper limit of the pH range for this crop. Q.-Near my azalea beds, my hydrangeas are blue, yet my neighbor has pink hydrangeas. What causes this? The hydrangea is nature's biological pH soil tester. When this plant grows in acid soils, its blooms are blue. When it grows in sweet soils, its blooms are pink. Since azaleas demand an acid soil for best growth, this condition causes the hydrangea, grow- ing nearby, to have blue blooms. Q.-In foundation plantings around masonry construction, how do you maintain a desirable pH for azaleas? Since the soil around a masonry-built home can be quite alkaline, this is an important consideration. The alkalinity is caused by the residue of lime used in the mortar to lay the brick or blocks. In many cases, azalea soil may be kept acid by working into the soil a plentiful supply of acid muck or peat. Of course, a heavy mulch cover is kept over the shallow root system of these plants. If the soil is still not acid enough, then a handful of yellow flour of sulfur can be sprinkled around each azalea bush and stirred into the surface soil. Q.-How acid are poorly-drained soils? This depends on the lime condition of the soil in question. High lime, poorly-drained soils may be alkaline. Poorly-drained soils with a low lime content will be acid, the degree of acidity depending on the amount and kind of lime, texture, and other local environmental influences. Q.-What are acid-sensitive plants? This is a term applied to plants that do not thrive best in soils at pH 5 or less. These plants seem to have a higher need for calcium than other plants, being unable to get enough of this element in strongly acid soils. Q.-Is a sweet soil best for most lawn grasses? No. Most lawn grasses do best on acid soil. Iron chlorosis, or 110 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS should do well at pH 7, even though this would be the upper limit of the pH range for this crop. Q.-Near my azalea beds, my hydrangeas are blue, yet my neighbor has pink hydrangeas. What causes this? The hydrangea is nature's biological pH soil tester. When this plant grows in acid soils, its blooms are blue. When it grows in sweet soils, its blooms are pink. Since azaleas demand an acid soil for best growth, this condition causes the hydrangea, grow- ing nearby, to have blue blooms. Q.-In foundation plantings around masonry construction, how do you maintain a desirable pH for azaleas? Since the soil around a masonry-built home can be quite alkaline, this is an important consideration. The alkalinity is caused by the residue of lime used in the mortar to lay the brick or blocks. In many cases, azalea soil may be kept acid by working into the soil a plentiful supply of acid muck or peat. Of course, a heavy mulch cover is kept over the shallow root system of these plants. If the soil is still not acid enough, then a handful of yellow flour of sulfur can be sprinkled around each azalea bush and stirred into the surface soil. Q.-How acid are poorly-drained soils? This depends on the lime condition of the soil in question. High lime, poorly-drained soils may be+sdkaline. Poorly-drained soils with a low lime content will be acid, the degree of acidity depending on the amount and kind of lime, texture, and other Iocal environmental influences. Q.-What are acid-sensitive plants? This is a term applied to plants that do not thrive best in soils at pH 5 or less. These plants seem to have a higher need for calcium than other plants, being unable to get enough of this element in strongly acid soils. Q.-Is a sweet soil best for most lawn grasses? No. Most lawn grasses do best on acid soil. Iron chlorosis, or 110 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs should do well at pH 7, even though this would be the upper limit of the pH range for this crop. Q.-Near my azalea beds, my hydrangeas are blue, yet my neighbor has pink hydrangeas. What causes this? The hydrangea is nature's biological pH soil tester. When this plant grows in acid soils, its blooms are blue. When it grows in sweet soils, its blooms are pink. Since azaleas demand an acid soil for best growth, this condition causes the hydrangea, grow- ing nearby, to have blue blooms. Q.-In foundation plantings around masonry construction, how do you maintain a desirable pH for azaleas? Since the soil around a masonry-built home can be quite alkaline, this is an important consideration. The alkalinity is caused by the residue of lime used in the mortar to lay the brick or blocks. In many cases, azalea soil may be kept acid by working into the soil a plentiful supply of acid muck or peat. Of course, a heavy mulch cover is kept over the shallow root system of these plants. If the soil is still not acid enough, then a handful of yellow flour of sulfur can be sprinkled around each azalea bush and stirred into the surface soil. Q.-How acid are poorly-drained soils? This depends on the lime condition, of the soil in question. High lime, poorly-drained soils may beoslkaline. Poorly-drained soils with a low lime content will be acid, the degree of acidity depending on the amount and kind of lime, texture, and other local environmental influences. Q.-What are acid-sensitive plants? This is a term applied to plants that do not thrive best in soils at pH 5 or less. These plants seem to have a higher need for calcium than other plants, being unable to get enough of this element in strongly acid soils. Q.-Is a sweet soil best for most lawn grasses? No. Most lawn grasses do best on acid soil. Iron chlorosis, or  TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY Ill TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY ll1 yellowing of centipede grass, is prevented by keeping the soil acid. When lawns are grown on acid soils, competition with weed growth is greatly reduced. Q.-I am told that green moss and related growth indicates soil acidity. Is this true? There are many whims that have developed over the years which, in most instances, are used to take the place of good sound knowledge. The growth of green moss is one. There is no rela- tionship worth considering between this growth and soil acidity. Certain specific acid-loving plants such as gallberries indicate a strongly acid soil. Gallberry shrubs and native pine trees are often seen growing in the Florida flatwoods. Q.-Why are so many soils too acid for best-cultivated plant growth? In the humid sections of our country lime materials that tend to make a soil sweet have been leached out of the soil due to high rainfall. In their place certain acid-forming nutrients remain, leaving the soil in an acid condition. These soils should be limed in order to satisfy most cultivated plants. When making this adjustment, the kind of plants, soil, and lime must all be con- sidered. Q.--How do I change soil from pH 7 to pH 6? Refer to the charts on pages 144 and 145 under the headings for the type of soil and kind of plant grown. Instead of applying the lime indicated, substitute one-third this amount of pure agri- cultural sulfur. Work the sulfur into the soil just as you would for limestone. For example, if the chart calls for 3 lbs. of lime- stone per 100 sq. ft. of area, use 1 lb. of agricultural sulfur over the same area. Q.-When referring to soil acidity, what is meant by the term base saturation? Base saturation is the percentage of basic ions (calcium, mag- yellowing of centipede grass, is prevented by keeping the soil acid. When lawns are grown on acid soils, competition with weed growth is greatly reduced. Q.-I am told that green moss and related growth indicates soil acidity. Is this true? There are many whims that have developed over the years which, in most instances, are used to take the place of good sound knowledge. The growth of green moss is one. There is no rela- tionship worth considering between this growth and soil acidity. Certain specific acid-loving plants such as gallberries indicate a strongly acid soil. Gallberry shrubs and native pine trees are often seen growing in the Florida flatwoods. Q.-Why are so many soils too acid for best-cultivated plant growth? In the humid sections of our country lime materials that tend to make a soil sweet have been leached out of the soil due to high rainfall. In their place certain acid-forming nutrients remain, leaving the soil in an acid condition. These soils should be limed in order to satisfy most cultivated plants. When making this adjustment, the kind of plants, soil, and lime must all be con- sidered. Q.-How do I change soil from pH 7 to pH 6? Refer to the charts on pages 144 and 145 under the headings for the type of soil and kind of plant grown. Instead of applying the lime indicated, substitute one-third this amount of pure agri- cultural sulfur. Work the sulfur into the soil just as you would for limestone. For example, if the chart calls for 3 lbs. of lime- stone per 100 sq. ft. of area, use 1 lb. of agricultural sulfur over the same area. Q.-When referring to soil acidity, what is meant by the term base saturation? Base saturation is the percentage of basic ions (calcium, mag- TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY 111 yellowing of centipede grass, is prevented by keeping the soil acid. When lawns are grown on acid soils, competition with weed growth is greatly reduced. Q.-I am told that green moss and related growth indicates soil acidity. Is this true? There are many whims that have developed over the years which, in most instances, are used to take the place of good sound knowledge. The growth of green moss is one. There is no rela- tionship worth considering between this growth and soil acidity. Certain specific acid-loving plants such as gallberries indicate a strongly acid soil. Gallberry shrubs and native pine trees are often seen growing in the Florida Batwoods. Q.-Why are so many soils too acid for best-cultivated plant growth? In the humid sections of our country lime materials that tend to make a soil sweet have been leached out of the soil due to high rainfall. In their place certain acid-forming nutrients remain, leaving the soil in an acid condition. These soils should be limed in order to satisfy most cultivated plants. When making this adjustment, the kind of plants, soil, and lime must all be con- sidered. Q.-How do I change soilifom pH 7 to pH 6? Refer to the charts on pages 144 and 145 under the headings for the type of soil and kind of plant grown. Instead of applying the lime indicated, substitute one-third this amount of pure agri- cultural sulfur. Work the sulfur into the soil just as you would for limestone. For example, if the chart calls for 3 lbs. of lime- stone per 100 sq. ft. of area, use 1 lb. of agricultural sulfur over the same area. Q.-When referring to soil acidity, what is meant by the term base saturation? Base saturation is the percentage of basic ions (calcium, mag-  112 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 112 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 112 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS nesium, potassium, etc.) in relation to the acid hydrogen ion. In general, the higher the base saturation, the sweeter the soil. The average mineral soil with a pH 6 - 7 will have a high base saturation. Q.-What are some ways to acidify the soil? Below are some common ways for acidifying the soil: 1. Apply a heavy covering of acid peat or muck. This method works well around shrubbery but is not too practical for vegetable gardens. 2. Apply yellow flour of sulfur according to directions. This is the most economical and safe way for both gardens and shrubbery. 3. Apply either aluminum or iron sulfate according to direc- tions. This is the fastest way but does not last as long as other methods. The amounts to apply are quite critical and must be measured and applied with care. Q.-What is meant by the term adjusting the pH of the soil for both soil and plant needs? To change its pH level, the amount of lime added to a soil is determined largely by the soil texture. The more clay and organic matter in a soil, the more lime must be used. Therefore, the pH needs of a soil are determined by its texture. Plants also have a pH preference. Acid-loving plants #e planted in soils that are acid. (See page 145.) Q.-What are some common materials for raising and lowering the pH of the soil? The most common materials for raising the soil pH are, dolomite, dolomitic limestone, calcic limestone, and hydrated lime. The most common materials for lowering the soil pH are, agricultural sulfur (flour of sulfur), aluminum sulfate, iron sulfate, and acid peat. See your County Agricultural Agent for the best way to use these materials. Q.-How can I safely change the pH of garden soil from 8 to 6? The most economical and safest material to use is finely-ground nesium, potassium, etc.) in relation to the acid hydrogen ion. In general, the higher the base saturation, the sweeter the soil. The average mineral soil with a pH 6 - 7 will have a high base saturation. Q.-What are some ways to acidify the soil? Below are some common ways for acidifying the soil: 1. Apply a heavy covering of acid peat or muck. This method works well around shrubbery but is not too practical for vegetable gardens. 2. Apply yellow flour of sulfur according to directions. This is the most economical and safe way for both gardens and shrubbery. 3. Apply either aluminum or iron sulfate according to direc- tions. This is the fastest way but does not last as long as other methods. The amounts to apply are quite critical and must be measured and applied with care. Q.-What is meant by the term adjusting the pH of the soil for both soil and plant needs? To change its pH level, the amount of lime added to a soil is determined largely by the soil texture. The more clay and organic matter in a soil, the more lime must be used. Therefore, the pH needs of a soil are determined by its texture. Plants also have a pH preference. Acid-loving plants r planted in soils that are acid. (See page 145.) Q.-What are some common materials for raising and lowering the pH of the soil? The most common materials for raising the soil pH are, dolomite, dolomitic limestone, calcic limestone, and hydrated lime. The most common materials for lowering the soil pH are, agricultural sulfur (flour of sulfur), aluminum sulfate, iron sulfate, and acid peat. See your County Agricultural Agent for the best way to use these materials. Q.-How can I safely change the pH of garden soil from 8 to 6? The most economical and safest material to use is finely-ground nesium, potassium, etc.) in relation to the acid hydrogen ion. In general, the higher the base saturation, the sweeter the soil. The average mineral soil with a pH 6 - 7 will have a high base saturation. Q.-What are some ways to acidify the soil? Below are some common ways for acidifying the soil: 1. Apply a heavy covering of acid peat or muck. This method works well around shrubbery but is not too practical for vegetable gardens. 2. Apply yellow flour of sulfur according to directions. This is the most economical and safe way for both gardens and shrubbery. 3. Apply either aluminum or iron sulfate according to direc- tions. This is the fastest way but does not last as long as other methods. The amounts to apply are quite critical and must be measured and applied with care. Q.-What is meant by the term adjusting the pH of the soil for both soil and plant needs? To change its pH level, the amount of lime added to a soil is determined largely by the soil texture. The more clay and organic matter in a soil, the more lime must be used. Therefore, the pH needs of a soil are determined by its texture. Plants also have a pH preference. Acid-loving plants r planted in soils that are acid. (See page 145.) Q.-What are some common materials for raising and lowering the pH of the soil? The most common materials for raising the soil pH are, dolomite, dolomitic limestone, calcic limestone, and hydrated lime. The most common materials for lowering the soil pH are, agricultural sulfur (flour of sulfur), aluminum sulfate, iron sulfate, and acid peat. See your County Agricultural Agent for the best way to use these materials. Q.-How can I safely change the pH of garden soil from 8 to 6? The most economical and safest material to use is finely-ground  TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY 113 TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY 113 yellow sulfur. The amount to use depends on the kind of plant to be grown and the texture of the soil. However, a rule of thumb for average conditions would be to use 1 lb. of sulfur for each 100 sq. ft. of garden surface to change the pH value one unit. In this case, it would require 2 lbs. since the change is for two units of pH value. Q.-Besides changing the pH, is lime of any value to the soil? Probably no other soil amendment benefits the soil more than agricultural limestone. A few of the more important benefits are: 1. Supplies both the plant nutrients, calcium and magnesium. 2. Stimulates beneficial biological activity in the soil. 3. Promotes good soil structure. 4. Increases the availability of other plant nutrients. 5. Promotes healthy root growth. 6. Tends to promote a higher ratio of favorable soil microorgan- isms. Q.-Should all soils be limed? Not all soils should be limed. Some soils are formed from lime- stone materials or are influenced by outcroppings of limestone. When a careful pH test is conducted on these soils, they will have an ample supply of lime and will not need this material. Special consideration must be given to the kind of plants grown. Some plants thrive best on low lime soils. A good pH test may indicate that no lime need be applied. It is just as easy to harm the growth of plants by overliming as it is to inhibit their growth by underliming. Q.-Should lime be applied to an acid garden soil just prior to planting? It is better to apply agricultural limestone well ahead of planting. For example, apply ground limestone in the fall for a garden to be planted in the spring. Sometimes it is necessary to make a more rapid change in the soil pH. This can be done by apply- yellow sulfur. The amount to use depends on the kind of plant to be grown and the texture of the soil. However, a rule of thumb for average conditions would be to use 1 lb. of sulfur for each 100 sq. ft. of garden surface to change the pH value one unit. In this case, it would require 2 lbs. since the change is for two units of pH value. Q.--Besides changing the pH, is lime of any value to the soil? Probably no other soil amendment benefits the soil more than agricultural limestone. A few of the more important benefits are: 1. Supplies both the plant nutrients, calcium and magnesium. 2. Stimulates beneficial biological activity in the soil. 3. Promotes good soil structure. 4. Increases the availability of other plant nutrients. 5. Promotes healthy root growth. 6. Tends to promote a higher ratio of favorable soil microorgan- isms. Q.--Should all soils be limed? Not all soils should be limed. Some soils are formed from lime- stone materials or are influenced by outcroppings of limestone. When a careful pH test is conducted on these soils, they will have an ample supply of lime and will not need this material. Special consideration must be given to the kind of plants grown. Some plants thrive best on low lime soils. A good pI test may indicate that no lime need be applied. It is just as easy to harm the growth of plants by overliming as it is to inhibit their grovth by underliming. Q.-Should lime be applied to an acid garden soil just prior to planting? It is better to apply agricultural limestone well ahead of planting. For example, apply ground limestone in the fall for a garden to be planted in the spring. Sometimes it is necessary to make a more rapid change in the soil pH. This can be done by apply- TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY 113 yellow sulfur. The amount to use depends on the kind of plant to be grown and the texture of the soil. However, a rule of thumb for average conditions would be to use 1 lb. of sulfur for each 100 sq. ft. of garden surface to change the pH value one unit. In this case, it would require 2 lbs. since the change is for two units of pH value. Q.-Besides changing the pH, is lime of any value to the soil? Probably no other soil amendment benefits the soil more than agricultural limestone. A few of the more important benefits are: 1. Supplies both the plant nutrients, calcium and magnesium. 2. Stimulates beneficial biological activity in the soil. 3. Promotes good soil structure. 4. Increases the availability of other plant nutrients. 5. Promotes healthy root growth. 6. Tends to promote a higher ratio of favorable soil microorgan- isms. Q.-Should all soils be limed? Not all soils should be limed. Some soils are formed from lime- stone materials or are influenced by outcroppings of limestone. When a careful pH test is conducted on these soils, they will have an ample supply of lime and will not need this material. Special consideration must be given to the kind of plants grown. Some plants thrive best on low lime soils. A good pH test may indicate that no lime need be applied. It is just as easy to harm the growth of plants by overliming as it is to inhibit their growth by underliming. Q.-Should lime be applied to an acid garden soil just prior to planting? It is better to apply agricultural limestone well ahead of planting. For example, apply ground limestone in the fall for a garden to be planted in the spring. Sometimes it is necessary to make a more rapid change in the soil pH. This can be done by apply-  114 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILs 114 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 114 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS ing hydrated lime and working it into the soil prior to planting. For each pound of agricultural limestone called for in a lime bulletin, use one-third this amount in hydrated lime for the same area,. Q.-Is sour soil the same as acid soil? Sour soil is a common name for acid soil. Q.-Besides its use to sweetens soot soils, what is the vale of lime? Lime is a mineral containing calcium, or calcium and magne- sium. Calcium and magnesium are essential plant food elements needed for normal plant growth as well as for sweetening the soil. Lime also has more indirect advantages, such as its improve- ment of soil structure, its promotion of more vigorous, healthy root growth, and its stimulation of soil microbial activity. Q.-Do all plants need lime? Some plants respond to lime treatment of the soil better than others. For example, alfalfa will grow poorly if the soil is not heavily limed. If planted on high-lime soils, azaleas will develop iron chlorosis within a short time. Most agricultural bulletins per- taining to the uses of lime will include a pH Preference Chart, which groups many kinds of plants having similar pH or soil acidity preference. (See page 145.) Q.-After the plants are set, is it too late to apply lime to a garden to change the pH? Before applying lime to garden soil, it is best to wait until the land is again prepared for another growing season. Lime requires time to react properly with the soil particles and should be applied before the seedbed is prepared while the soil is being tilled and harrowed. Q.-Does it take more lime to sweeten one soil than another? Yes. The finer the texture of the soil, the more lime it takes to sweeten the soil. Soils with high colloidal content, either humus, ing hydrated lime and working it into the soil prior to planting. For each pound of agricultural limestone called for in a lime bulletin, use one-third this amount in hydrated lime for the same area,. Q.-Is sour soil the same as acid soil? Sour soil is a common name for acid soil. Q.-Besides its use to sweeten sour soils, what is the value of lime? Lime is a mineral containing calcium, or calcium and magne- sium. Calcium and magnesium are essential plant food elements needed for normal plant growth as well as for sweetening the soil. Lime also has more indirect advantages, such as its improve- ment of soil structure, its promotion of more vigorous, healthy root growth, and its stimulation of soil microbial activity, Q.-Do all plants need lime? Some plants respond to lime treatment of the soil better than others. For example, alfalfa will grow poorly if the soil is not heavily limed. If planted on high-lime soils, azaleas will develop iron chlorosis within a short time. Most agricultural bulletins per- taining to the uses of lime will include a pH Preference Chart, which groups many kinds of plants having similar pH or soil acidity preference. (See page 145.) Q.-After the plants are set, is it too late to apply lime to a garden to change the pH? Before applying lime to garden soil, it is best to wait until the land is again prepared for another growing season. Lime requires time to react properly with the soil particles and should be applied before the seedbed is prepared while the soil is being tilled and harrowed. Q.-Does it take more lime to sweeten one soil than another? Yes. The finer the texture of the soil, the more lime it takes to sweeten the soil. Soils with high colloidal content, either humus, ing hydrated lime and working it into the soil prior to planting. For each pound of agricultural limestone called for in a lime bulletin, use one-third this amount in hydrated lime for the same area. Q.-Is sour soil the same as acid soil? Sour soil is a common name for acid soil. Q.-Besides its use to sweeten sour soils, what is the value of lime? Lime is a mineral containing calcium, or calcium and magne- sium. Calcium and magnesium are essential plant food elements needed for normal plant growth as well as for sweetening the soil. Lime also has more indirect advantages, such as its improve- ment of soil structure, its promotion of more vigorous, healthy root growth, and its stimulation of soil microbial activity. Q.-Do all plants need lime? Some plants respond to lime treatment of the soil better than others. For example, alfalfa will grow poorly if the soil is not heavily limed. If planted on high-lime soils, azaleas will develop iron chlorosis within a short time. Most agricultural bulletins per- taining to the uses of lime will include a pH Preference Chart, which groups many kinds of plants having similar pH or soil acidity preference. (See page 145.) Q.-After the plants are set, is it too late to apply lime to a garden to change the pH? Before applying lime to garden soil, it is best to wait until the land is again prepared for another growing season. Lime requires time to react properly with the soil particles and should be applied before the seedbed is prepared while the soil is being tilled and harrowed. Q.-Does it take more lime to sweeten one soil than another? Yes. The finer the texture of the soil, the more lime it takes to sweeten the soil. Soils with high colloidal content, either humus,  TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY 115 TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY 115 TESTING AND CONTROL OF ACIDITY 115 clays, or both, take relatively large amounts of agricultural lime to change the pH value. Before any attempt is made to sweeten the soil, a reliable soil pH test and the use of a Florida state bulletin on liming are recommended. Q.-WVhy do I have to use so much more lime on heavy soils than on light soils? Heavy soils are highly buffered and have a high exchange capac- ity. Heavy soils have a fine texture and a great deal of surface area around the soil particles for lime to cover. The heavier the soil, the greater the total surface of its particles, and the larger the amount of lime to apply. The opposite is true for light sandy soils. Q.-What is the best time of the year for applying lime to the soil? Lime may be applied any time of the year. However, it is a feasible plan to apply this material well ahead of planting. Lime requires time to react with the soil in order to produce a change in the soil pH. The time required depends on the kind of lime, soil type, and weather. If a season of the year were selected for applying lime, probably fall would be preferable, which gives it time, during the winter months, to react with the soil particles. Q.-Is it more practical to broadcast or side-dress with agricul- tural lime? Before seeds are sowed or plants are set, agricultural lime should be broadcast and worked into the soil. Q.--What is dolomite? Dolomite is a form of agricultural limestone containing both calcium and magnesium carbonate in about equal quantities. Q.-Does the magnesium content vary in different dolomitic limestones? The magnesium content varies a great deal in all forms of agri- cultural limestone. In pure dolomite, the magnesium content will clays, or both, take relatively large amounts of agricultural lime to change the pH value. Before any attempt is made to sweeten the soil, a reliable soil pH test and the use of a Florida state bulletin on liming are recommended. Q.-Why do I have to use so much more lime on heavy soils than on light soils? Heavy soils are highly buffered and have a high exchange capac- ity. Heavy soils have a fine texture and a great deal of surface area around the soil particles for lime to cover. The heavier the soil, the greater the total surface of its particles, and the larger the amount of lime to apply. The opposite is true for light sandy soils. Q.-What is the best time of the year for applying lime to the soil? Lime may be applied any time of the year. However, it is a feasible plan to apply this material well ahead of planting. Lime requires time to react with the soil in order to produce a change in the soil pH. The time required depends on the kind of lime, soil type, and weather. If a season of the year were selected for applying lime, probably fall would be preferable, which gives it time, during the winter months, to react with the soil particles. Q.-Is it more practical to broadcast or side-dress with agricul- tural lime? Before seeds are sowed or plants are set, agricultural lime should be broadcast and worked into the soil. Q.-What is dolomite? Dolomite is a form of agricultural limestone containing both calcium and magnesium carbonate in about equal quantities. Q.-Does the magnesium content vary in different dolomitic limestones? The magnesium content varies a great deal in all forms of agri- cultural limestone. In pure dolomite, the magnesium content will clays, or both, take relatively large amounts of agricultural lime to change the pH value. Before any attempt is made to sweeten the soil, a reliable soil pH test and the use of a Florida state bulletin on liming are recommended. Q.-Why do I have to use so much more lime on heavy soils than on light soils? Heavy soils are highly buffered and have a high exchange capac- ity. Heavy soils have a fine texture and a great deal of surface area around the soil particles for lime to cover. The heavier the soil, the greater the total surface of its particles, and the larger the amount of lime to apply. The opposite is true for light sandy soils. Q.-What is the best time of the year for applying lime to the soil? Lime may be applied any time of the year. However, it is a feasible plan to apply this material well ahead of planting. Lime requires time to react with the soil in order to produce a change in the soil pH. The time required depends on the kind of lime, soil type, and weather. If a season of the year were selected for applying lime, probably fall would be preferable, which gives it time, during the winter months, to react with the soil particles. Q.-Is it more practical to broadcast or side-dress with agricul- tural lime? Before seeds are sowed or plants are set, agricultural lime should be broadcast and worked into the soil. Q.-What is dolomite? Dolomite is a form of agricultural limestone containing both calcium and magnesium carbonate in about equal quantities. Q.-Does the magnesium content vary in different dolomitic limestones? The magnesium content varies a great deal in all forms of agri- cultural limestone. In pure dolomite, the magnesium content will  116 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 116 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 116 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS be about the same as the calcium content. In dolomitic limestone, the magnesium content will be lower than the calcium content. In some dolomitic limestones, the magnesium content may be only 2 to 10 per cent of the combined calcium-magnesium total. Q.-Instead of regular agricultural lime for my garden, why was dolomite recommended? The soil test for your garden must have indicated a low supply of magnesium. Dolomite is a product that contains about one- half magnesium carbonate and one-half calcium carbonate. Regu- lar calcic limestone is nearly all calcium carbonate. Q.-To adjust the pH one unit, how much dolomite or hydrated lime should be applied per 100 sq. ft.? This depends on the texture and the organic matter content of the garden soil, Most bulletins containing lime charts show these quantities as they relate to soil texture and organic matter. A rule of thumb for average soil conditions would be about 4 lbs. of dolomite, or about one-half this amount in hydrated lime, per 100 sq. ft. of garden area. Q.-What is the difference between ground limestone and hydrated lime? Ground limestone is calcium carbonate and hydrated lime is calcium hydroxide. The hydrated lime acts several times faster in the soil than does ground limestone. Q.-Why are there so many coarse particles in the agricultural limestone that I purchased? The coarse particles react with the soil much slower than the very fine limestone particles. The slow-acting coarse particles enable the limestone to last over several years before more of the material is applied. Both the fine and coarse particles have their place in the ground limestone material. The fine limestone reacts quickly with the soil, giving a beneficial effect on plant growth early in the growing season. be about the same as the calcium content. In dolomitic limestone, the magnesium content will be lower than the calcium content. In some dolomitic limestones, the magnesium content may be only 2 to 10 per cent of the combined calcium-magnesium total. Q.--Instead of regular agricultural lime for my garden, why was dolomite recommended? The soil test for your garden must have indicated a low supply of magnesium. Dolomite is a product that contains about one- half magnesium carbonate and one-half calcium carbonate. Regu- lar calcic limestone is nearly all calcium carbonate. Q.-To adjust the pH one unit, how much dolomite or hydrated lime should be applied per 100 sq. ft.? This depends on the texture and the organic matter content of the garden soil. Most bulletins containing lime charts show these quantities as they relate to soil texture and organic matter. A rule of thumb for average soil conditions would be about 4 lbs. of dolomite, or about one-half this amount in hydrated lime, per 100 sq. ft. of garden area. Q.--What is the difference between ground limestone and hydrated lime? Ground limestone is calcium carbonate and hydrated lime is calcium hydroxide. The hydrated lime acts several times faster in the soil than does ground limestone. Q.--Why are there so many coarse particles in the agricultural limestone that I purchased? The coarse particles react with the soil much slower than the very fine limestone particles. The slow-acting coarse particles enable the limestone to last over several years before more of the material is applied. Both the fine and coarse particles have their place in the ground limestone material. The fine limestone reacts quickly with the soil, giving a beneficial effect on plant growth early in the growing season. be about the same as the calcium content. In dolomitic limestone, the magnesium content will be lower than the calcium content. In some dolomitic limestones, the magnesium content may be only 2 to 10 per cent of the combined calcium-magnesium total. Q.--Instead of regular agricultural lime for my garden, why was dolomite recommended? The soil test for your garden must have indicated a low supply of magnesium. Dolomite is a product that contains about one- half magnesium carbonate and one-half calcium carbonate. Regu- lar calcic limestone is nearly all calcium carbonate. Q.-To adjust the pH one unit, how much dolomite or hydrated lime should be applied per 100 sq. ft.? This depends on the texture and the organic matter content of the garden soil. Most bulletins containing lime charts show these quantities as they relate to soil texture and organic matter. A rule of thumb for average soil conditions would be about 4 lbs. of dolomite, or about one-half this amount in hydrated lime, per 100 sq. ft. of garden area. Q.-What is the difference between ground limestone and hydrated lime? Ground limestone is calcium carbonate and hydrated lime is calcium hydroxide. The hydrated lime acts several times faster in the soil than does ground limestone. Q.-Why are there so many coarse particles in the agricultural limestone that I purchased? The coarse particles react with the soil much slower than the very fine limestone particles. The slow-acting coarse particles enable the limestone to last over several years before more of the material is applied. Both the fine and coarse particles have their place in the ground limestone material. The fine limestone reacts quickly with the soil, giving a beneficial effect on plant growth early in the growing season.  X EIGHT X, g EIGHT Yy X EIGHT X Hunger Signs in Garden Plants Q.-New leaves on my azalea plants are turning yellow between green veins. What causes this? In many acid-loving plants this is a common occurrence. Suffer- ing from an iron deficiency, these plants will respond quickly to any one of several recommended treatments of soluble iron. A garden center store generally has several forms of iron supple- ment for sale. Be sure to follow the directions for using care- fully. Q.-How can I tell if there is a nitrogen or iron deficiency in azalea plants? When iron deficiency occurs, new leaves turn yellow between green veins. When nitrogen deficiency in azaleas becomes severe, a gradual yellowing of the whole plant appears. Q.-What causes blossom-end-rat in tomatoes and black heart in celery? Can these conditions be controlled? These nutrient disorders are caused by lack of enough available calcium. Under certain conditions, a deficiency may occur even 117 Hunger Signs in Garden Plants Q.-New leaves on my azalea plants are turning yellow between green veins. What causes this? In many acid-loving plants this is a common occurrence. Suffer- ing from an iron deficiency, these plants will respond quickly to any one of several recommended treatments of soluble iron. A garden center store generally has several forms of iron supple- ment for sale. Be sure to follow the directions for using care- fully. Q.-How can I tell if there is a nitrogen or iron deficiency in azalea plants? When iron deficiency occurs, new leaves turn yellow between green veins. When nitrogen deficiency in azaleas becomes severe, a gradual yellowing of the whole plant appears. Q.-What causes blossom-end-rot in tomatoes and black heart in celery? Can these conditions be controlled? These nutrient disorders are caused by lack of enough available calcium. Under certain conditions, a deficiency may occur even 117 Hunger Signs in Garden Plants Q.-New leaves on my azalea plants are turning yellow between green veins. What causes this? In many acid-loving plants this is a common occurrence. Suffer- ing from an iron deficiency, these plants will respond quickly to any one of several recommended treatments of soluble iron. A garden center store generally has several forms of iron supple- ment for sale. Be sure to follow the directions for using care- fully. Q.-How can I tell if there is a nitrogen or iron deficiency in azalea plants? When iron deficiency occurs, new leaves turn yellow between green veins. When nitrogen deficiency in azaleas becomes severe, a gradual yellowing of the whole plant appears. Q.-What causes blossom-end-rot in tomatoes and black heart in celery? Can these conditions be controlled? These nutrient disorders are caused by lack of enough available calcium. Under certain conditions, a deficiency may occur even 117  TYPICAL IRON DEFICIENCY SYMPTOMS TYPICAL IRON DEFICIENCY SYMPTOMS TYPICAL IRON DEFICIENCY SYMPTOMS  HUNGER SIGNS IN GARDEN PLANTS 119 HUNGER SIGNS IN GARDEN PLANTS 119 HUNGER SIGNS IN GARDEN PLANTS 119 in soils showing a high calcium soil test. A production guide for growing celery and tomatoes gives recommendations for prevent- ing this trouble by the use of a spray containing calcium chloride. Q.-My plants, besides being stunted, are turning to a purple color near the stems of the leaves. What has caused this? Your problem appears to be a typical phosphorus deficiency symptom. A lack of this element generally results in a dark green, stunted plant. The older leaves gradually turn to a bronze or purple color. Q.--How can I tell if my plants have a boron deficiency? Look for yellowing and a breakdown of the base of the new leaves. The terminal bud and root tips die. New growth will be distorted and severely twisted. Q.-How can I determine the difference between an iron and manganese deficiency? Except for two outstanding differences, these two deficiency symptoms appear much alike. Both iron and manganese defi- ciencies cause the new leaves to turn yellow, leaving the veins green. When there is a lack of iron, the large veins remain green. When the plant is manganese deficient all the veins, including the very smallest, form a network of green veins within the yellow leaf. Leaves showing a manganese deficiency have scattered dead tissue. No dead tissue is present on iron deficient leaves. Q.-The older leaves of my plants are turning yellow, beginning at the edges and moving in toward the center of the leaf. What is missing in my fertilizer program? Especially if some dead tissue is occurring in the yellow portion of the leaf, the symptoms are those of magnesium deficiency. The best correction for magnesium deficiency is to use agricul- tural dolomite the next time your garden is limed. Dolomite supplies both magnesium and calcium in carbonate form. in soils showing a high calcium soil test. A production guide for growing celery and tomatoes gives recommendations for prevent- ing this trouble by the use of a spray containing calcium chloride. Q.--My plants, besides being stunted, are turning to a purple color near the stems of the leaves. What has caused this? Your problem appears to be a typical phosphorus deficiency symptom. A lack of this element generally results in a dark green, stunted plant. The older leaves gradually turn to a bronze or purple color. Q.-How can I tell if my plants have a boron deficiency? Look for yellowing and a breakdown of the base of the new leaves. The terminal bud and root tips die. New growth will be distorted and severely twisted. Q.--How can I determine the difference between an iron and manganese deficiency? Except for two outstanding differences, these two deficiency symptoms appear much alike. Both iron and manganese defi- ciencies cause the new leaves to turn yellow, leaving the veins green. When there is a lack of iron, the large veins remain green. When the plant is manganese deficient all the veins, including the very smallest, form a network of green veins within the yellow leaf. Leaves showing a manganese deficiency have scattered dead tissue. No dead tissue is present on iron deficient leaves. Q.-The older leaves of my plants are turning yellow, beginning at the edges and moving in toward the center of the leaf. What is missing in my fertilizer program? Especially if some dead tissue is occurring in the yellow portion of the leaf, the symptoms are those of magnesium deficiency. The best correction for magnesium deficiency is to use agricul- tural dolomite the next time your garden is limed. Dolomite supplies both magnesium and calcium in carbonate form. in soils showing a high calcium soil test. A production guide for growing celery and tomatoes gives recommendations for prevent- ing this trouble by the use of a spray containing calcium chloride. Q.--My plants, besides being stunted, are turning to a purple color near the stems of the leaves. What has caused this? Your problem appears to be a typical phosphorus deficiency symptom. A lack of this element generally results in a dark green, stunted plant. The older leaves gradually turn to a bronze or purple color. Q.-How can I tell if my plants have a boron deficiency? Look for yellowing and a breakdown of the base of the new leaves. The terminal bud and root tips die. New growth will be distorted and severely twisted. Q.-How can I determine the difference between an iron and manganese deficiency? Except for two outstanding differences, these two deficiency symptoms appear much alike. Both iron and manganese defi- ciencies cause the new leaves to turn yellow, leaving the veins green. When there is a lack of iron, the large veins remain green. When the plant is manganese deficient all the veins, including the very smallest, form a network of green veins within the yellow leaf. Leaves showing a manganese deficiency have scattered dead tissue. No dead tissue is present on iron deficient leaves. Q.-The older leaves of my plants are turning yellow, beginning at the edges and moving in toward the center of the leaf. What is missing in my fertilizer program? Especially if some dead tissue is occurring in the yellow portion of the leaf, the symptoms are those of magnesium deficiency. The best correction for magnesium deficiency is to use agricul- tural dolomite the next time your garden is limed. Dolomite supplies both magnesium and calcium in carbonate form.  120 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.--Why does centipede grass often turn yellow in a lawn planting but seldom turns yellow in a pasture? A combination of faster growth and constant watering of a lawn can easily cause centipede grass to turn yellow from lack of suflcient available iron. Heavy rains aggravate this condition by leaching out this element. The slower growth of centipede in a pasture, because of smaller applications of fertilizer and no supplemental watering, enables the grass to utilize available iron without showing a deficiency of this element. Q.-ly sweet corn has white streaks running up and down the leaf blades. What is the cause of this? This is a deficiency of zine known as white bud. The addition of zinc sulfate to fertilizer, or spray water, will correct this con- dition. As the amount necessary varies for different soil types and plant varieties, it is advisable to refer to a state agricultural bulletin for procedure and amount. Q.-Some of the new leaves on my gardenia plants are yellow between green veins. What is the cause of this? The gardenia plants are suffering from iron deficiency. Iron is commonly deficient in many acid-loving plants growing on soils with a pH near neutral. By sprinkling a small handful of yellow agricultural sulfur around each bush, the soil can be maintained at the proper acidity. Q.-All the leaves of my azalea bushes are turning yellow. How can this condition be corrected? Since the yellowing appears on both the old and new leaves, it appears to be a nitrogen deficiency. Rather than use a single nitrogen top-dresser it will, in all probability, be better to apply a complete azalea fertilizer which contains sufficient nitrogen to cure the condition. By doing this, you are keeping the soil pH at the proper level as well as maintaining a suitable balance with phosphorus and potassium. Q.-How can I correct a magnesium deficiency? 120 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-Why does centipede grass often turn yellow in a lawn planting but seldom turns yellow in a pasture? A combination of faster growth and constant watering of a lawn can easily cause centipede grass to turn yellow from lack of sufficient available iron. Heavy rains aggravate this condition by leaching out this element. The slower growth of centipede in a pasture, because of smaller applications of fertilizer and no supplemental watering, enables the grass to utilize available iron without showing a deficiency of this element. Q.-Mly sweet corn has white streaks running up and down the leaf blades. What is the cause of this? This is a deficiency of zinc known as white bud. The addition of zinc sulfate to fertilizer, or spray water, will correct this con- dition. As the amount necessary varies for different soil types and plant varieties, it is advisable to refer to a state agricultural bulletin for procedure and amount. Q.-Some of the new leaves on my gardenia plants are yellow between green veins. What is the cause of this? The gardenia plants are suffering from iron deficiency. Iron is commonly deficient in many acid-loving plants growing on soils with a pH near neutral. By sprinkling a small handful of yellow agricultural sulfur around each bush, the soil can be maintained at the proper acidity. Q.-All the leaves of my azalea bushes are turning yellow. How can this condition be corrected? Since the yellowing appears on both the old and new leaves, it appears to be a nitrogen deficiency. Rather than use a single nitrogen top-dresser it will, in all probability, be better to apply a complete azalea fertilizer which contains sufficient nitrogen to cure the condition. By doing this, you are keeping the soil pH at the proper level as well as maintaining a suitable balance with phosphorus and potassium. Q.-How can I correct a magnesium deficiency? 120 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-Why does centipede grass often turn yellow in a lawn planting but seldom turns yellow in a pasture? A combination of faster growth and constant watering of a lawn can easily cause centipede grass to turn yellow from lack of sufficient available iron. Heavy rains aggravate this condition by leaching out this clement. The slower growth of centipede in a pasture, because of smaller applications of fertilizer and no supplemental watering, enables the grass to utilize available iron without showing a deficiency of this element. Q.-ily sweet corn has white streaks running up and down the leaf blades. What is the cause of this? This is a deficiency of zinc known as white bud. The addition of zinc sulfate to fertilizer, or spray water, will correct this con- dition. As the amount necessary varies for different soil types and plant varieties, it is advisable to refer to a state agricultural bulletin for procedure and amount. Q.-Some of the new leaves on my gardenia plants are yellow between green veins. What is the cause of this? The gardenia plants are suffering from iron deficiency. Iron is commonly deficient in many acid-loving plants growing on soils with a pH near neutral. By sprinkling a small handful of yellow agricultural sulfur around each bush, the soil can be maintained at the proper acidity. Q.-All the leaves of my azalea bushes are turning yellow. How can this condition be corrected? Since the yellowing appears on both the old and new leaves, it appears to be a nitrogen deficiency. Rather than use a single nitrogen top-dresser it will, in all probability, be better to apply a complete azalea fertilizer which contains sufficient nitrogen to cure the condition. By doing this, you are keeping the soil pH at the proper level as well as maintaining a suitable balance with phosphorus and potassium. Q.-How can I correct a magnesium deficiency?  HUNGER SIGNS IN GARDEN PLANTS 121 HUNGER SIGNS IN GARDEN PLANTS 121 HUNGER SIGNS IN GARDEN PLANTS 121 If the garden can stand an additional amount of lime, then the preferable procedure for correcting a magnesium deficiency is by applying dolomitic limestone. This type of limestone contains both calcium and magnesium carbonate. If the soil is already sweet enough, then the application of 1 lb. of epsom salts to each 100 sq. ft. of surface will quickly cure a magnesium defi- ciency. Epsom salts is magnesium sulfate, a neutral salt which will not disturb the pH of soil. However, this material does not have the lasting effect of dolomite, Q.-The leaves on my hibiscus plants are distorted, having a wide tip and narrow base. What is wrong? These are the symptoms of strap leaf, or a molybdenum defi- ciency. This deficiency is cured by an extremely small amount of sodium molybdate which is diluted in a large quantity of water and drenched over the affected plant. Since the amount is critical, it is important that you contact your agricultural leader for specific recommendations to suit local garden conditions. Q.-After several rains, my centipede grass turns yellow in spots. What causes this? These yellow chlorotic spots indicate a need for available iron. Centipede grass has a higher requirement for iron than other lawn grasses, being the first to suffer from the need for this element when available amounts of iron are removed by heavy rains. A seed store can supply either iron sulfate or chelated iron for correcting iron deficiency in a lawn. Follow directions on the package carefully. Q.-Is it possible to detect a calcium deficiency easily? Deficiency of calcium is localized on new leaves which will be small and appear hooked. The terminal bud will be severely twisted and may be dead. Roots turn brown and the tips soon die. Q.-How can I tell if a deficiency in plants is from minor or major elements? If the garden can stand an additional amount of lime, then the preferable procedure for correcting a magnesium deficiency is by applying dolomitic limestone. This type of limestone contains both calcium and magnesium carbonate. If the soil is already sweet enough, then the application of 1 lb. of epsom salts to each 100 sq. ft. of surface will quiebly cure a magnesium defi- ciency. Epsom salts is magnesium sulfate, a neutral salt which will not disturb the pH of soil. However, this material does not have the lasting effect of dolomite. Q.-The leaves on my hibiscus plants are distorted, having a wide tip and narrow base. What is wrong? These are the symptoms of strap leaf, or a molybdenum defi- ciency. This deficiency is cured by an extremely small amount of sodium molybdate which is diluted in a large quantity of water and drenched over the affected plant. Since the amount is critical, it is important that you contact your agricultural leader for specific recommendations to suit local garden conditions. Q.--After several rains, my centipede grass turns yellow in spots. What causes this? These yellow chlorotic spots indicate a need for available iron. Centipede grass has a higher requirement for iron than other lawn grasses, being the first to suffer from the need for this element when available amounts of iron are removed by heavy rains. A seed store can supply either iron sulfate or chelated iron for correcting iron deficiency in a lawn. Follow directions on the package carefully. Q.-Is it possible to detect a calcium deficiency easily? Deficiency of calcium is localized on new leaves which will be small and appear hooked. The terminal bud will be severely twisted and may be dead. Roots turn brown and the tips soon die. Q.--How can I tell if a deficiency in plants is from minor or major elements? If the garden can stand an additional amount of lime, then the preferable procedure for correcting a magnesium deficiency is by applying dolomitic limestone. This type of limestone contains both calcium and magnesium carbonate. If the soil is already sweet enough, then the application of 1 lb. of epsom salts to each 100 sq. ft. of surface will quickly cure a magnesium defi- ciency. Epsom salts is magnesium sulfate, a neutral salt which will not disturb the pH of soil. However, this material does not have the lasting effect of dolomite. Q.-The leaves on my hibiscus plants are distorted, having a wide tip and narrow base. What is wrong? These are the symptoms of strap leaf, or a molybdenum defi- ciency. This deficiency is cured by an extremely small amount of sodium molybdate which is diluted in a large quantity of water and drenched over the affected plant. Since the amount is critical, it is important that you contact your agricultural leader for specific recommendations to suit local garden conditions. Q.-After several rains, my centipede grass turns yellow in spots. What causes this? These yellow chlorstic spots indicate a need for available iron. Centipede grass has a higher requirement for iron than other lawn grasses, being the first to suffer from the need for this element when available amounts of iron are removed by heavy rains. A seed store can supply either iron sulfate or chelated iron for correcting iron deficiency in a lawn. Follow directions on the package carefully. Q.-Is it possible to detect a calcium deficiency easily? Deficiency of calcium is localized on new leaves which will be small and appear hooked. The terminal bud will be severely twisted and may be dead. Roots turn brown and the tips soon die. Q.-How can I tell if a deficiency in plants is from minor or major elements?  122 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 122 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 122 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Most minor-element deficiencies are localized on new leaves. Deficiencies of major elements may be detected on the whole plant or older leaves. Q.-All of my garden plants are turning yellow uniformly. What has caused this condition? It is safe to say this is a nitrogen deficiency. Since the need for available nitrogen is so high for most garden plants, nitrogen deficiency is a common occurrence. A recommended top- or side- dressing of some form of available nitrogen will return quickly the normal green color of plants. For kinds and amounts, make reference to a garden bulletin. Q.-What are the major elements that can cause deficiency symptoms? Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium constitute the fertilizer ele- ments. Calcium and magnesium make up the lime elements. As a by-product, sulfur (an important part of proteins and plant oils) is found in most mixed fertilizer. Since all these elements are major plant food nutrients, a lack of any one of them can cause deficiency symptoms. Q.-Since nitrogen and sulfur deficiencies in plants are similar, how can the difference be detected? Although deficiency of nitrogen is common, chance of sulfur deficiency is rare. Both these nutrient elements cause a uniform yellowing of leaves. Sulfur, however, begins prevalently with the older leaves and progresses toward newer leaves. In plants suffering from nitrogen deficiency, the entire plant gradually changes from a dark green to yellow. Sulfur deficiency leaves a plant more stunted than a plant having a lack of nitrogen. Q.-What is meant by mobility of plant nutrients within the plant? As growing needs demand the use of a nutrient, it may move from one part of the plant to the other. Potassium is an excellent example of a mobile plant food element. Most minor-element deficiencies are localized on new leaves. Deficiencies of major elements may be detected on the whole plant or older leaves. Q.-All of my garden plants are turning yellow uniformly. What has caused this condition? It is safe to say this is a nitrogen deficiency. Since the need for available nitrogen is so high for most garden plants, nitrogen deficiency is a common occurrence. A recommended top- or side- dressing of some form of available nitrogen will return quickly the normal green color of plants. For kinds and amounts, make reference to a garden bulletin. Q.-What are the major elements that can cause deficiency symptoms? Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium constitute the fertilizer ele- ments. Calcium and magnesium make up the lime elements. As a by-product, sulfur (an important part of proteins and plant oils) is found in most mixed fertilizer. Since all these elements are major plant food nutrients, a lack of any one of them can cause deficiency symptoms. Q.-Since nitrogen and sulfur deficiencies in plants are similar, how can the difference be detected? Although deficiency of nitrogen is common, chance of sulfur deficiency is rare. Both these nutrient elements cause a uniform yellowing of leaves. Sulfur, however, begins prevalently with the older leaves and progresses toward newer leaves. In plants suffering from nitrogen deficiency, the entire plant gradually changes from a dark green to yellow. Sulfur deficiency leaves a plant more stunted than a plant having a lack of nitrogen. Q.-What is meant by mobility of plant nutrients within the plant? As growing needs demand the use of a nutrient, it may move from one part of the plant to the other. Potassium is an excellent example of a mobile plant food element. Most minor-element deficiencies are localized on new leaves. Deficiencies of major elements may be detected on the whole plant or older leaves. Q.-All of my garden plants are turning yellow uniformly. What has caused this condition? It is safe to say this is a nitrogen deficiency. Since the need for available nitrogen is so high for most garden plants, nitrogen deficiency is a common occurrence. A recommended top- or side- dressing of some form of available nitrogen will return quickly the normal green color of plants. For kinds and amounts, make reference to a garden bulletin. Q.-What are the major elements that can cause deficiency symptoms? Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium constitute the fertilizer ele- ments. Calcium and magnesium make up the lime elements. As a by-product, sulfur (an important part of proteins and plant oils) is found in most mixed fertilizer. Since all these elements are major plant food nutrients, a lack of any one of them can cause deficiency symptoms. Q.-Since nitrogen and sulfur deficiencies in plants are similar, how can the difference be detected? Although deficiency of nitrogen is common, chance of sulfur deficiency is rare. Both these nutrient elements cause a uniform yellowing of leaves. Sulfur, however, begins prevalently with the older leaves and progresses toward newer leaves. In plants suffering from nitrogen deficiency, the entire plant gradually changes from a dark green to yellow. Sulfur deficiency leaves a plant more stunted than a plant having a lack of nitrogen. Q.-What is meant by mobility of plant nutrients within the plant? As growing needs demand the use of a nutrient, it may move from one part of the plant to the other. Potassium is an excellent example of a mobile plant food element.  NIT r AssIUM CHLORINE RoGEPHOSPHORU B' ZINC SS4SAA COPPER THE ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS FOR PLANT GROWTH CHLORINE BOOA N (O0G{PHOSPHORUS ZINC COPPER THE ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS FOR PLANT GROWTH NITROGEN ~ SU CHLORNES M J N ROGPHOSPHORUS M~rONMZINC Ng~ THE ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS FOR PLANT GROWTH  124 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-Why is it that only leaves sprayed with iron turn green while the others remain yellow? Available iron is not mobile within the plant. It cannot be transferred from one part of the plant to the other, a character- istic typical of other nutrient elements. Consequently, only leaves receiving soluble iron turn green while the others remain yellow. If iron-deficient leaves are not thoroughly covered by the cor- rective spray, only those spots on the leaves touched by the iron spray will turn green. Q.-How can I tell if plants are deficient in potassium? A deficiency of potassium, occurring as a tip or marginal burn, makes its appearance first on the older leaves, beginning on the lower or middle leaves. If the deficiency continues, these symp- toms, along with a gradual yellowing, proceed upward toward the growing tip of the plant. Q.-Which one of the minor-element hunger signs does not present a pattern of dead tissue? Iron deficiency symptoms seem to be the only minor element causing a change of color in the leaf without some breakdown of the leaf tissue. Q.--How will a deficiency of magnesium appear on plants? Effects of magnesium will first appear on the older leaves. A typical yellow begins at the margins,. extending inward toward the center. Dead spots of tissue occur in the yellow portion of the leaf. Q.-What is a typical hunger sign for copper? In a copper deficiency, the effects are localized on the new leaves. The terminal bud remains alive and all newer leaves wilt. Young twigs become limber and lose their stiffness. Q.-What is a typical deficiency for nitrogen? With nitrogen deficiency, a uniform loss of green color occurs in the plant, beginning with the older leaves and progressing toward the new leaves. 124 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-Why is it that only leaves sprayed with iron turn green while the others remain yellow? Available iron is not mobile within the plant. It cannot be transferred from one part of the plant to the other, a character- istic typical of other nutrient elements. Consequently, only leaves receiving soluble iron turn green while the others remain yellow. If iron-deficient leaves are not thoroughly covered by the cor- rective spray, only those spots on the leaves touched by the iron spray will turn green. Q.-How can I tell if plants are deficient in potassium? A deficiency of potassium, occurring as a tip or marginal burn, makes its appearance first on the older leaves, beginning on the lower or middle leaves. If the deficiency continues, these symp- toms, along with a gradual yellowing, proceed upward toward the growing tip of the plant. Q.-Which one of the minor-element hunger signs does not present a pattern of dead tissue? Iron deficiency symptoms seem to be the only minor element causing a change of color in the leaf without some breakdown ofthe leaf tissue. Q.-How will a deficiency of magnesium appear on plants? Effects of magnesium will first appear on the older leaves. A typical yellow begins at the margins,, extending inward toward the center. Dead spots of tissue occur in the yellow portion of the leaf. Q-What is a typical hunger sign for copper? In a copper deficiency, the effects are localized on the new leaves. The terminal bud remains alive and all newer leaves wilt. Young twigs become limber and lose their stiffness. Q.-What is a typical deficiency for nitrogen? With nitrogen deficiency, a uniform loss of green color occurs in the plant, beginning with the older leaves and progressing toward the new leaves. 124 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-Why is it that only leaves sprayed with iron turn green while the others remain yellow? Available iron is not mobile within the plant. It cannot be transferred from one part of the plant to the other, a character- istic typical of other nutrient elements. Consequently, only leaves receiving soluble iron turn green while the others remain yellow. If iron-deficient leaves are not thoroughly covered by the cor- rective spray, only those spots on the leaves touched by the iron spray will turn green. Q.-How can I tell if plants are deficient in potassium? A deficiency of potassium, occurring as a tip or marginal burn, makes its appearance first on the older leaves, beginning on the lower or middle leaves. If the deficiency continues, these symp- toms, along with a gradual yellowing, proceed upward toward the growing tip of the plant. Q.-Which one of the minor-element hunger signs does not present a pattern of dead tissue? Iron deficiency symptoms seem to be the only minor element causing a change of color in the leaf without some breakdown of the leaf tissue. Q.--How will a deficiency of magnesium appear on plants? Effects of magnesium will first appear on the older leaves. A typical yellow begins at the margins, extending inward toward the center. Dead spots of tissue occur in the yellow portion of the leaf. Q.-What is a typical hunger sign for copper? In a copper deficiency, the effects are localized on the new leaves. The terminal bud remains alive and all newer leaves wilt. Young twigs become limber and lose their stiffness. Q.-What is a typical deficiency for nitrogen? With nitrogen deficiency, a uniform loss of green color occurs in the plant, beginning with the older leaves and progressing toward the new leaves.  HUNGER SIGNS IN GARDEN PLANTS 125 Q.-Why is a defciency of sulfur so rare in Florida gardens? Over the years, sulfur has found a free ride to the soil on the backs of other fertilizers. Superphosphate, ammonium sulfate, and potassium sulfate--common carriers of sulfur-are used in large amounts in our soils. Q.-Why is magnesium so closely related to yellowing of plant leaves? Magnesium is the central element in the chlorophyll molecule. It is this molecule that produces the green coloring of plant leaves. Q.-The roots of my plants are underdeveloped and brown in color. The soil they are growing in is very acid. Could this be a hunger sign? This condition could be a deficiency of calcium. Garden soils that are properly limed will grow normal plants with healthy white roots. Q.-My plants have strong stiff stocks. The soil test shows a high amount of potassium in the soil. Is this typical? Yes, this condition would be considered typical. When there is an adequate available amount of potassium in the soil, it produces strong stiff stocks in growing plants. Q.-What are the special effects of nitrogen on a growing plant? Sufficient nitrogen gives a plant a normal, dark-green color. Too little nitrogen causes the plant to be spindly, and the leaves turn yellow. Too much of this element will cause a plant to develop an excessive amount of green vegetative growth. HUNGER SIGNS IN GARDEN PLANTS 125 Q.-Why is a defciency of sulfur so rare in Florida gardens? Over the years, sulfur has found a free ride to the soil on the backs of other fertilizers. Superphosphate, ammonium sulfate, and potassium sulfate-common carriers of sulfur-are used in large amounts in our soils. Q.--Why is magnesium so closely related to yellowing of plant leaves? Magnesium is the central element in the chlorophyll molecule. It is this molecule that produces the green coloring of plant leaves. 9.-The roots of my plants are underdeveloped and brown in color. The soil they are growing in is very acid. Could this be a hunger sign? This condition could be a deficiency of calcium. Garden soils that are properly limed will grow normal plants with healthy white roots. Q.-My plants have strong stiff stocks. The soil test shows a high amount of potassium in the soil. Is this typical? Yes, this condition would be considered typical. When there is an adequate available amount of potassium in the soil, it produces strong stiff stocks in growing plants. Q.-What are the special effects of nitrogen on a growing plant? Sufficient nitrogen gives a plant a normal, dark-green color. Too little nitrogen causes the plant to be spindly, and the leaves turn yellow. Too much of this element will cause a plant to develop an excessive amount of green vegetative growth. HUNGER SIGNS IN GARDEN PLANTS 125 Q.-Why is a defciency of sulfur so rare in Florida gardens? Over the years, sulfur has found a free ride to the soil on the backs of other fertilizers. Superphosphate, ammonium sulfate, and potassium sulfate-common carriers of sulfur-are used in large amounts in our soils. Q.-Why is magnesium so closely related to yellowing of plant leaves? Magnesium is the central element in the chlorophyll molecule. It is this molecule that produces the green coloring of plant leaves. Q.-The roots of ny plants are underdeveloped and brown in color. The soil they are growing in is very acid. Could this be a hunger sign? This condition could be a deficiency of calcium. Garden soils that are properly limed will grow normal plants with healthy white roots. 9.--My plants have strong stiff stocks. The soil test shows a high amount of potassium in the soil. Is this typical? Yes, this condition would be considered typical. When there is an adequate available amount of potassium in the soil, it produces strong stiff stocks in growing plants. Q.-What are the special effects of nitrogen on a growing plant? Sufficient nitrogen gives a plant a normal, dark-green color. Too little nitrogen causes the plant to be spindly, and the leaves turn yellow. Too much of this element will cause a plant to develop an excessive amount of green vegetative growth.  NINE , NINE NINE Friendly Organisms and Their Care Q.-How important are earthworms? Earthworms assist in the decomposition of organic material. As they move from place to place, they also help in keeping the soil better aerated. Since they tend to migrate to soils that already have good conditions for plant growth, their importance as com- pared with other kinds of soil organisms is secondary. Q.-Just how many microbes live in the soil? Numbers vary greatly, but an average would be between 2 million and 5 million cells per gram of soil. A gram of soil is about as much as you could hold on your thumbnail. Q.-Gardeners often speak of their plants standing still during cold spells. Has this any connection with the activity of soil bacteria? It could have a definite connection. Since soil microbes are living cells, they must also have an ideal temperature to perform their tasks. When the soil temperatures drop too low, both the nitrify- ing and ammonifying bacteria slow down in their process of lib- 126 Friendly Organisms and Their Care Q.--How important are earthworms? Earthworms assist in the decomposition of organic material. As they move from place to place, they also help in keeping the soil better aerated. Since they tend to migrate to soils that already have good conditions for plant growth, their importance as com- pared with other kinds of soil organisms is secondary. Q.-Just how many microbes live in the soil? Numbers vary greatly, but an average would be between 2 million and 5 million cells per gram of soil. A gram of soil is about as much as you could hold on your thumbnail. Q.--Gardeners often speak of their plants standing still during cold spells. Has this any connection with the activity of soil bacteria? It could have a definite connection. Since soil microbes are living cells, they must also have an ideal temperature to perform their tasks. When the soil temperatures drop too low, both the nitrify- ing and ammonifying bacteria slow down in their process of lib- 126 Friendly Organisms and Their Care Q.-How important are earthworms? Earthworms assist in the decomposition of organic material. As they move from place to place, they also help in keeping the soil better aerated. Since they tend to migrate to soils that already have good conditions for plant growth, their importance as com- pared with other kinds of soil organisms is secondary. Q.-Just how many microbes live in the soil? Numbers vary greatly, but an average would be between 2 million and 5 million cells per gram of soil. A gram of soil is about as much as you could hold on your thumbnail. Q.-Gardeners often speak of their plants standing still during cold spells. Has this any connection with the activity of soil bacteria? It could have a definite connection. Since soil microbes are living cells, they must also have an ideal temperature to perform their tasks. When the soil temperatures drop too low, both the nitrify- ing and ammonifying bacteria slow down in their process of lib- 126  FRIENDLY ORGANISMS 127 erating available nitrogen for the immediate needs of plants. Since nitrogen is the one plant food nutrient that makes the greatest difference in plant growth, the plant shows it by standing still. When the soil warms up, a fresh surge of available nitrogen causes the plant to exhibit a new flush of growth. Q.-What makes plant residues decompose? Billions of microscopic soil organisms attack any form of plant and animal residue that may enter the soil. This is their source of food and energy. In the process of decomposition the residue is reduced in mass and greatly changes, both in physical and chemical characteristics. The dark-colored substance that remains is added to the organic matter of the soil along with countless dead and living microbial cells. Q.-What is ammonification in the soil? Ammonification is the production of ammonia by the soil microbes as they decompose plant and animal residues. This is probably the principal source of soil nitrogen in native soils and is a very important source of nitrogen in cultivated soils. Q.-It is said that soil microbes eat off the first plate and plants off the second plate. What is the meaning of this? Soil microbes are similar to plants in that they must have readily- available nutrient elements to survive. When a fresh source of plant food elements enters the soil solution, soil microbes are the first to use these elements for their immediate needs. These plant food elements are temporarily lost to plants since further changes in soil microbial activity must take place so as to release these nu- trients in available form for plant absorption. This is demonstrated when a green manure crop is turned under. Until the soil mi- crobes have completed about two to three weeks of thorough de- composition, seeds planted in this soil will not have use of this new source of nitrogen. Q.-What season of the year are soil microbes most active and why? FRIENDLY ORGANISMS 127 FRIENDLY ORGANISMS 127 erating available nitrogen for the immediate needs of plants. Since nitrogen is the one plant food nutrient that makes the greatest difference in plant growth, the plant shows it by standing still. When the soil warms up, a fresh surge of available nitrogen causes the plant to exhibit a new flush of growth. Q.-tWhat makes plant residues decompose? Billions of microscopic soil organisms attack any form of plant and animal residue that may enter the soil. This is their source of food and energy. In the process of decomposition the residue is reduced in mass and greatly changes, both in physical and chemical characteristics. The dark-colored substance that remains is added to the organic matter of the soil along with countless dead and living microbial cells. Q.-What is ammonification in the soil? Ammonification is the production of ammonia by the soil microbes as they decompose plant and animal residues. This is probably the principal source of soil nitrogen in native soils and is a very important source of nitrogen in cultivated soils. Q.-It is said that soil microbes eat off the first plate and plants off the second plate. What is the meaning of this? Soil microbes are similar to plants in that they must have readily- available nutrient elements to survive. When a fresh source of plant food elements enters the soil solution, soil microbes are the first to use these elements for their immediate needs. These plant food elements are temporarily lost to plants since further changes in soil microbial activity must take place so as to release these nu- trients in available form for plant absorption. This is demonstrated when a green manure crop is turned under. Until the soil mi- crobes have completed about two to three weeks of thorough de- composition, seeds planted in this soil will not have use of this new source of nitrogen. Q.-What season of the year are soil microbes most active and why? crating available nitrogen for the immediate needs of plants. Since nitrogen is the one plant food nutrient that makes the greatest difference in plant growth, the plant shows it by standing still. When the soil warms up, a fresh surge of available nitrogen causes the plant to exhibit a new flush of growth. Q.-What makes plant residues decompose? Billions of microscopic soil organisms attack any form of plant and animal residue that may enter the soil. This is their source of food and energy. In the process of decomposition the residue is reduced in mass and greatly changes, both in physical and chemical characteristics. The dark-colored substance that remains is added to the organic matter of the soil along with countless dead and living microbial cells. Q.-What is ammonification in the soil? Ammonification is the production of ammonia by the soil microbes as they decompose plant and animal residues. This is probably the principal source of soil nitrogen in native soils and is a very important source of nitrogen in cultivated soils. Q.-It is said that soil microbes eat off the first plate and plants off the second plate. What is the meaning of this? Soil microbes are similar to plants in that they must have readily- available nutrient elements to survive. When a fresh source of plant food elements enters the soil solution, soil microbes are the first to use these elements for their immediate needs. These plant food elements are temporarily lost to plants since further changes in soil microbial activity must take place so as to release these nu- trients in available form for plant absorption. This is demonstrated when a green manure crop is turned under. Until the soil mi- crobes have completed about two to three weeks of thorough de- composition, seeds planted in this soil will not have use of this new source of nitrogen. Q.-What season of the year are soil microbes most active and why?  128 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 128 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 128 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS They are most active during the summer months when a combina- tion of favorable temperature and rain makes the environment ideal for soil-microbial activity. Q.-Does light and shade affect the activity of the soil microbes? The greatest majority of soil microbes are non-chlorophyllic and, therefore, do not need light to manufacture their simple carbo- hydrates. Their activity is not affected by shade. A minor group of soil microbes, the algae, have green chlorophyll pigment. Like plants, they manufacture their own sugars and starches. These soil microbes need sunlight to survive. Q.-Is it true that living organisms in the soil are essential for plant growth? The living organisms in the soil indirectly supply much of the needs of the growing plant. For example: legume bacteria furnish nitrogen for leguminous plants; decomposing bacteria liberate such plant food elements as nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur from organic matter. These examples are only two of many such benefits. Q.-Can soluble salts accumulate in the soil to the extent that they will interfere with microbial activity? Yes, they can. This is especially true in areas where the irriga- tion water is naturally salty and where large amounts of fertilizers have been applied. Generally speaking, when the soil is so salty that microbial activity is inhibited, so is the growth of cultivated plants. Q.-After an application of cottonseed meal, why did the grass on my lawn first turn yellow and then green? An old saying answers this question: "The soil microbes eat off the first plate and the plants off the second plate." This means that the needs of the soil microbes for nitrogen must be supplied before any available nitrogen is present for the grass. Thus, the yellow color. Q.-How do legumes flx nitrogen? They are most active during the summer months when a combina- tion of favorable temperature and rain snakes the environment ideal for soil-microbial activity. Q.-Does light and shade affect the activity of the soil microbes? The greatest majority of soil microbes are non-chlorophyllic and, therefore, do not need light to manufacture their simple carbo- hydrates. Their activity is not affected by shade. A minor group of soil microbes, the algae, have green chlorophyll pigment. Like plants, they manufacture their own sugars and starches. These soil microbes need sunlight to survive. Q.-ls it true that living organisms in the soil are essential for plant growth? The living organisms in the soil indirectly supply much of the needs of the growing plant. For example: legume bacteria furnish nitrogen for leguminous plants; decomposing bacteria liberate such plant food elements as nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur from organic matter. These examples are only two of many such benefits. Q.-Can soluble salts accumulate in the soil to the extent that they will interfere with microbial activity? Yes, they can. This is especially true in areas where the irriga- tion water is naturally salty and where large amounts of fertilizers have been applied. Generally speaking, when the soil is so salty that microbial activity is inhibited, so is the growth of cultivated plants. Q.-After an application of cottonseed meal, why did the grass on my lawn first turn yellow and then green? An old saying answers this question: "The soil microbes eat off the first plate and the plants off the second plate." This means that the needs of the soil microbes for nitrogen must be supplied before any available nitrogen is present for the grass. Thus, the yellow color. Q.--How do legumes fix nitrogen? They are most active during the summer months when a combina- tion of favorable temperature and rain makes the environment ideal for soil-microbial activity. Q.-Does light and shade affect the activity of the soil microbes? The greatest majority of soil microbes are non-chlorophyllic and, therefore, do not need light to manufacture their simple carbo- hydrates. Their activity is not affected by shade. A minor group of soil microbes, the algae, have green chlorophyll pigment. Like plants, they manufacture their own sugars and starches. These soil microbes need sunlight to survive. Q.-Is it true that living organisms in the soil are essential for plant growth? The living organisms in the soil indirectly supply much of the needs of the growing plant. For example: legume bacteria furnish nitrogen for leguminous plants; decomposing bacteria liberate such plant food elements as nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur from organic matter. These examples are only two of many such benefits. Q.-Can soluble salts accumulate in the soil to the extent that they will interfere with microbial activity? Yes, they can. This is especially true in areas where the irriga- tion water is naturally salty and where large amounts of fertilizers have been applied. Generally speaking, when the soil is so salty that microbial activity is inhibited, so is the growth of cultivated plants. Q.-After an application of cottonseed meal, why did the grass on my lawn first turn yellow and then green? An old saying answers this question: "The soil microbes eat off the first plate and the plants off the second plate." This means that the needs of the soil microbes for nitrogen must be supplied before any available nitrogen is present for the grass. Thus, the yellow color. Q.-How do legumes fix nitrogen?  FRIENDLY ORGANISMS 129 FRIENDLY ORGANISMS 129 FRIENDLY ORGANISMS 129 Nitrogen fixation is a term used to describe the ability of the bac- teria to live in the nodules of legume roots and utilize nitrogen from the air. The relationship between the legume bacteria and the legume plant is said to be symbiotic; that is, their growth is for the mutual benefit of each other. The legume bacteria receive some simple carbohydrates from the plant roots and, in turn, give the plants a form of nitrogen that they need. Q.-Should the inoculation of legume seed in Florida differ from that in any other part of the United States? Because of the effect of moisture and temperature on our sandy surface soils, legume seed should be inoculated with two to seven times the amount of inoculant as used in other parts of the United States. Q.-Do the friendly soil microbes need air, water, and plant food elements just like the growing plants? Yes, they do. They are living cells, similar to plant cells, and must have these essentials for life. Q.--How can I tell if I have friendly bacteria in my garden soil when it is impossible to see them? You can be certain that you have friendly bacteria in your garden soil if your plants are healthy-looking and have no symptoms to indicate they are not normal. Most of the friendly bacteria are aerobic in nature and thrive in well-drained, well-aerated soil that has been properly limed and fertilized as required. A rule of thumb would be that anything that promotes vigorous normal plant growth will also promote vigorous activity of friendly bac- teria in your garden soil. Q.-Do all legumes need inoculation? Most legumes need inoculation. The very few legumes that do not need inoculation are native to Florida. For example, Florida beggarweed, which has a natural supply of legume bacteria in the soil, is indigenous to this state. Q.-What is the best way to inoculate legume seed? Nitrogen fixation is a term used to describe the ability of the bac- teria to live in the nodules of legume roots and utilize nitrogen from the air. The relationship between the legume bacteria and the legume plant is said to be symbiotic; that is, their growth is for the mutual benefit of each other. The legume bacteria receive some simple carbohydrates from the plant roots and, in turn, give the plants a form of nitrogen that they need. Q.-Should the inoculation of legume seed in Florida differ from that in any other part of the United States? Because of the effect of moisture and temperature on our sandy surface soils, legume seed should be inoculated with two to seven times the amount of inoculant as used in other parts of the United States. Q.-Do the friendly soil microbes need air, water, and plant food elements just like the growing plants? Yes, they do. They are living cells, similar to plant cells, and must have these essentials for life. Q.-How can I tell if I have friendly bacteria in my garden soil when it is impossible to see them? You can be certain that you have friendly bacteria in your garden soil if your plants are healthy-looking and have no symptoms to indicate they are not normal. Most of the friendly bacteria are aerobic in nature and thrive in well-drained, well-aerated soil that has been properly limed and fertilized as required. A rule of thumb would be that anything that promotes vigorous normal plant growth will also promote vigorous activity of friendly bac- teria in your garden soil. Q.-Do all legumes need inoculation? Most legumes need inoculation. The very few legumes that do not need inoculation are native to Florida. For example, Florida beggarweed, which has a natural supply of legume bacteria in the soil, is indigenous to this state. Q.-W hat is the best way to inoculate legume seed? Nitrogen fixation is a term used to describe the ability of the bac- teria to live in the nodules of legume roots and utilize nitrogen from the air. The relationship between the legume bacteria and the legume plant is said to be symbiotic; that is, their growth is for the mutual benefit of each other. The legume bacteria receive some simple carbohydrates from the plant roots and, in turn, give the plants a form of nitrogen that they need. Q.-Should the inoculation of legume seed in Florida differ from that in any other part of the United States? Because of the effect of moisture and temperature on our sandy surface soils, legume seed should be inoculated with two to seven times the amount of inoculant as used in other parts of the United States. Q.-Do the friendly soil microbes need air, water, and plant food elements just like the growing plants? Yes, they do. They are living cells, similar to plant cells, and must have these essentials for life. Q.--How can I tell if I have friendly bacteria in my garden soil when it is impossible to see them? You can be certain that you have friendly bacteria in your garden soil if your plants are healthy-looking and have no symptoms to indicate they are not normal. Most of the friendly bacteria are aerobic in nature and thrive in well-drained, well-aerated soil that has been properly limed and fertilized as required. A rule of thumb would be that anything that promotes vigorous normal plant growth will also promote vigorous activity of friendly bac- teria in your garden soil. Q.-Do all legumes need inoculation? Most legumes need inoculation. The very few legumes that do not need inoculation are native to Florida. For example, Florida beggarweed, which has a natural supply of legume bacteria in the soil, is indigenous to this state. Q.-What is the best way to inoculate legume seed?  130 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 130 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS The most commonly used commercial inoculant is a mixture of bacteria with a very finely-screened black humus. This mixture is packed in plastic bags or cans, and dated. After obtaining the proper inoculant for the specific legume seed to be inoculated, proceed as follows. Pour the seed in a clean mixing container. Add just enough cool tap water to barely moisten the seed. Mix the seed so that every seed has a thin film of moisture on it. Pour the required amount of inoculant over the moist seed. Mix the inoculant with the seed until all of them have a black coating. The seed should now be in good physical condition for spreading with a mechanical spreader. Q.-What are legume bacteria and what good are they? Certain plants live symbiotically with specific kinds of bacteria. These plants are known as legumes and are supplied much-needed nitrogen plant food by the legume bacteria. In exchange, the bac- teria acquire energy by using sugar from the roots of the legume plant. As the plant grows and the bacteria thrive, many tumor-like growths, known as nodules, develop on the roots of the plant. These root nodules are the home of millions of microscopic leg- ume bacteria. When you purchase a certain legume seed, you should also purchase the inoculant that goes with the seed. This is kono as cross-inoculation. Directions for using the inoculant are printed on the package. Q.-What is nitrification in the soil and what is its relation to ammonification? These are two of the most important microbial processes in the soil. Decomposing bacteria in soil are by far the largest active group of soil microbes, changing plant and animal residues to soil organic matter. In the process, ammonification takes place, and ammonium nitrogen is liberated into the soil solution. When the soil is not too acid and is properly drained, specific nitrifying bacteria quickly convert ammonium forms of nitrogen into readily available nitrate nitrogen. Both of these kinds of ni- trogen are utilized by plant growth. The most commonly used commercial inoculant is a mixture of bacteria with a very finely-screened black humus. This mixture is packed in plastic bags or cans, and dated. After obtaining the proper inoculant for the specific legume seed to be inoculated, proceed as follows. Pour the seed in a clean mixing container. Add just enough cool tap water to barely moisten the seed. Mix the seed so that every seed has a thin film of moisture on it. Pour the required amount of inoculant over the moist seed. Mix the inoculant with the seed until all of them have a black coating. The seed should now be in good physical condition for spreading with a mechanical spreader. Q.--Wlhat are legume bacteria and what good are they? Certain plants live symbiotically with specific kinds of bacteria. These plants are known as legumes and are supplied much-needed nitrogen plant food by the legume bacteria. In exchange, the bac- teria acquire energy by using sugar from the roots of the legume plant. As the plant grows and the bacteria thrive, many tumor-like growths, known as nodules, develop on the roots of the plant. These root nodules are the home of millions of microscopic leg- ume bacteria. When you purchase a certain legume seed, you should also purchase the inoculant that goes with the seed. This is known as cross-inoculation. Directions for using the inoculant are printed on the package. Q.--What is nitrification in the soil and what is its relation to ammonification? These are two of the most important microbial processes in the soil. Decomposing bacteria in soil are by far the largest active group of soil microbes, changing plant and animal residues to soil organic matter. In the process, ammonification takes place, and ammonium nitrogen is liberated into the soil solution. When the soil is not too acid and is properly drained, specific nitrifying bacteria quickly convert ammonium forms of nitrogen into readily available nitrate nitrogen. Both of these kinds of ni- trogen are utilized by plant growth. 130 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS The most commonly used commercial inoculant is a mixture of bacteria with a very finely-screened black humus. This mixture is packed in plastic bags or cans, and dated. After obtaining the proper inoculant for the specific legume seed to be inoculated, proceed as follows. Pour the seed in a clean mixing container. Add just enough cool tap water to barely moisten the seed. Mix the seed so that every seed has a thin film of moisture on it. Pour the required amount of inoculant over the moist seed. Mix the inoculant with the seed until all of them have a black coating. The seed should now be in good physical condition for spreading with a mechanical spreader. Q.-What are legume bacteria and what good are they? Certain plants live symbiotically with specific kinds of bacteria. These plants are known as legumes and are supplied much-needed nitrogen plant food by the legume bacteria. In exchange, the bac- teria acquire energy by using sugar from the roots of the legume plant. As the plant grows and the bacteria thrive, many tumor-like growths, known as nodules, develop on the roots of the plant. These root nodules are the home of millions of microscopic leg- ume bacteria. When you purchase a certain legume seed, you should also purchase the inoculant that goes with the seed. This is known as cross-inoculation. Directions for using the inoculant are printed on the package. Q.--What is nitrification in the soil nd what is its relation to ammonification? These are two of the most important microbial processes in the soil. Decomposing bacteria in soil are by far the largest active group of soil microbes, changing plant and animal residues to soil organic matter. In the process, ammonification takes place, and ammonium nitrogen is liberated into the soil solution. When the soil is not too acid and is properly drained, specific nitrifying bacteria quickly convert ammonium forms of nitrogen into readily available nitrate nitrogen. Both of these kinds of ni- trogen are utilized by plant growth.  FRIENDLY ORGANISMS 131 FRIENDLY ORGANISMS 131 FRIENDLY ORGANISMS 131 Q.-Can soil microbes compete with growing plants for available nitrogen? Yes, they can and do compete with plants for available nitrogen. The only time this competition may be detrimental is when fresh plant material is turned or spaded into the soil. At this time, the microbes attack new plant tissue, utilizing the nitrogen available for their own cell production. For a brief period, this process de- prives the growing plant of available nitrogen. After the microbes have satisfied their needs, then available nitrogen again appears in the soil and can be used by growing plant roots. Q. -I have heard that the microbes that produce antibiotics live in the soil. Is this true? Yes, indeed. By far the greatest number of organisms that pro- duce antibiotics live in the soil. Among other fungi, several species of actinomycetes produce antibiotics. Q.-My sweet clover is stunted and yellow in color. What is the cause of this? This appears to be a nitrogen deficiency and could be caused by no inoculation, improper inoculation, or no available nitrogen in the soil. Q.-What is meant by the phrases soil breathing or soil is a liv- ing body? Soil breathes and is a living body. Over 75 per cent of all the carbon dioxide necessary to sustain the meager .03 per cent found in the atmosphere comes from the breathing of billions of living cells in the soil. Since plants need CO, for manufacturing starch, and all the carbon chains that bind our bodies together come from the CO, in the atmosphere, it is apparent that the living soil must be protected and cared for at all costs. Q.-Are all soil microbes harmful? To maintain a desirable balance, nature has need for both harm- ful and beneficial microbes. Even microbes causing diseases of Q.-Can soil microbes compete with growing plants for available nitrogen? Yes, they can and do compete with plants for available nitrogen. The only time this competition may be detrimental is when fresh plant material is turned or spaded into the soil. At this time, the microbes attack new plant tissue, utilizing the nitrogen available for their own cell production. For a brief period, this process de- prives the growing plant of available nitrogen. After the microbes have satisfied their needs, then available nitrogen again appears in the soil and can be used by growing plant roots. Q.-I have heard that the microbes that produce antibiotics live in the soil. Is this true? Yes, indeed. By far the greatest number of organisms that pro- duce antibiotics live in the soil. Among other fungi, several species of actinomycetes produce antibiotics. Q.-Aly sweet clover is stunted and yellow in color. What is the cause of this? This appears to be a nitrogen deficiency and could be caused by no inoculation, improper inoculation, or no available nitrogen in the soil. Q.-What is meant by the phrases soil breathing or soil is a liv- ing body? Soil breathes and is a living body. Over 75 per cent of all the carbon dioxide necessary to sustain the meager .03 per cent found in the atmosphere comes from the breathing of billions of living cells in the soil. Since plants need CO, for manufacturing starch, and all the carbon chains that bind our bodies together come from the CO, in the atmosphere, it is apparent that the living soil must be protected and cared for at all costs. Q.-Are all soil microbes harmful? To maintain a desirable balance, nature has need for both harm- ful and beneficial microbes. Even microbes causing diseases of Q.-Can soil microbes compete with growing plants for available nitrogen? Yes, they can and do compete with plants for available nitrogen. The only time this competition may be detrimental is when fresh plant material is turned or spaded into the soil. At this time, the microbes attack new plant tissue, utilizing the nitrogen available for their own cell production. For a brief period, this process de- prives the growing plant of available nitrogen. After the microbes have satisfied their needs, then available nitrogen again appears in the soil and can be used by growing plant roots. Q. -I have heard that the microbes that produce antibiotics live in the soil. Is this true? Yes, indeed. By far the greatest number of organisms that pro- duce antibiotics live in the soil. Among other fungi, several species of actinomycetes produce antibiotics. Q.-Ay sweet clover is stunted and yellow in color. What is the cause of this? This appears to be a nitrogen deficiency and could be caused by no inoculation, improper inoculation, or no available nitrogen in the soil. Q.-What is meant by the phrases soil breathing or soil is a liv- ing body? Soil breathes and is a living body. Over 75 per cent of all the carbon dioxide necessary to sustain the meager .03 per cent found in the atmosphere comes from the breathing of billions of living cells in the soil. Since plants need CO, for manufacturing starch, and all the carbon chains that bind our bodies together come from the CO, in the atmosphere, it is apparent that the living soil must be protected and cared for at all costs. Q.-Are all soil microbes harmful? To maintain a desirable balance, nature has need for both harm- ful and beneficial microbes. Even microbes causing diseases of  132 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 132 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 132 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS plants take part in decomposing plant remains, thereby contrib- uting toward the maintenance of soil organic matter. The major- ity of soil organisms that are classified as beneficial are found near the surface of the soil, in the area where most of the garden plant roots are located. Q.-I have read that earthworms carry humus from the topsoil to the subsoil. Is this true? This movement of humus from the topsoil to the subsoil is one of the special benefits of earthworms. As part of their digestive process, earthworms carry surface organic matter into the soil. In the movement of this material through their digestive tract, they mix it with the mineral content of the subsoil. Q -Should I plant earthworms in my garden? Since earthworms are widely distributed, this is not necessary. When conditions in the soil are ideal for vigorous plant growth, they will move into your garden. Q.-Will fertilizer hurt earthworms? In the amounts used by the average gardener, fertilizers have no adverse effect on earthworms. In the long run, the beneficial ef- fects of fertilizers to plant growth will, in turn, benefit the earth- worm. Q.-Where do earthworms do the most good in soils? Earthworms come into their own in soils that compact readily. Here the earthworms give the gardener the secondary measures needed for keeping a fine-textured soil well aerated. These open spaces in the soil also allow moisture to penetrate quickly and deeply. Since moisture and air are two of the most limiting factors for thrifty plant growth, earthworms are important in soils of this type. Q.-What are those threadlike materials that seem to make my garden so workable? Those threadlike materials are the mycelia of billions of molds plants take part in decomposing plant remains, thereby contrib- uting toward the maintenance of soil organic matter. The major- ity of soil organisms that are classified as beneficial are found near the surface of the soil, in the area where most of the garden plant roots are located. Q.-I have read that earthworms carry humus from the topsoil to the subsoil. Is this true? This movement of humus from the topsoil to the subsoil is one of the special benefits of earthworms. As part of their digestive process, earthworms carry surface organic matter into the soil. In the movement of this material through their digestive tract, they mix it with the mineral content of the subsoil. Q.-Should I plant earthworms in my garden? Since earthworms are widely distributed, this is not necessary. When conditions in the soil are ideal for vigorous plant growth, they will move into your garden. Q.-Will fertilizer hurt earthworms? In the amounts used by the average gardener, fertilizers have no adverse effect on earthworms. In the long run, the beneficial ef- fects of fertilizers to plant growth will, in turn, benefit the earth- worm. Q.-Where do earthworms do the most good in soils? Earthworms come into their own in soils that compact readily. Here the earthworms give the gardener the secondary measures needed for keeping a fine-textured soil well aerated. These open spaces in the soil also allow moisture to penetrate quickly and deeply. Since moisture and air are two of the most limiting factors for thrifty plant growth, earthworms are important in soils of this type. Q.-What are those threadlike materials that seem to make my garden so workable? Those threadlike materials are the mycelia of billions of molds plants take part in decomposing plant remains, thereby contrib- uting toward the maintenance of soil organic matter. The major- ity of soil organisms that are classified as beneficial are found near the surface of the soil, in the area where most of the garden plant roots are located. Q.-I have read that earthworms carry humus from the topsoil to the subsoil. Is this true? This movement of humus from the topsoil to the subsoil is one of the special benefits of earthworms. As part of their digestive process, earthworms carry surface organic matter into the soil. In the movement of this material through their digestive tract, they mix it with the mineral content of the subsoil. Q.-Should I plant earthworms in my garden? Since earthworms are widely distributed, this is not necessary. When conditions in the soil are ideal for vigorous plant growth, they will move into your garden. Q.--Will fertilizer hurt earthworms? In the amounts used by the average gardener, fertilizers have no adverse effect on earthworms. In the long run, the beneficial ef- fects of fertilizers to plant growth will, in turn, benefit the earth- worm. Q.-Where do earthworms do the most good in soils? Earthworms come into their own in soils that compact readily. Here the earthworms give the gardener the secondary measures needed for keeping a fine-textured soil well aerated. These open spaces in the soil also allow moisture to penetrate quickly and deeply. Since moisture and air are two of the most limiting factors for thrifty plant growth, earthworms are important in soils of this type. Q.-What are those threadlike materials that seem to make my garden so workable? Those threadlike materials are the mycelia of billions of molds  FRIENDLY ORGANISMS 133 FRIENDLY ORGANISMS 133 FRIENDLY ORGANISMS 133 and actinomyrcetes. Since they tie the soil together, they may be referred to as nature's seamsters. Conservation of soil and water is greatly dependent on this desirable soil structure. Q.-Do all soil microbes live in harmony in the soil? Not at all. Each kind struggles for its life. Competition for food, water, and other needs of life is constantly going on in the soil. Great changes take place by the minute and continue through the years. The result is soil formation and plant growth. Q.--Why do plants do so well in seed flats that contain a rich supply of fresh compost? It has been shown that fresh compost contains a high flora of beneficial soil microbes. Some of these suppress other micro- organisms which are the disease producers. This is a part of na- ture's intricate plan for survival. Q.-I have heard that the soil microbes seen under a microscope possess form and beauty similar to a flower garden. Is this true? All shapes, forms, and colors exist among the flora and fauna of the soil. It is a surprise and thrill to view the living soil through a microscope for the first time. Q.-Do all soils have the same number and kind of micro- organisms? Not all soils contain the same number and kinds of micro- organisms. The number and kind will vary greatly with the en- vironmental condition of the soil microbes, such as winter or summer, desert or humid areas, organic or inorganic soils. Q.-Do all of the microbes in the soil need preformed organic carbon to live? At least two groups, the algae and autotrophic bacteria acquire their supply of carbon from carbon dioxide similar to higher plants. Q.-Is it true that soil is alive? and actinomycetes. Since they tie the soil together, they may be referred to as nature's seamsters. Conservation of soil and water is greatly dependent on this desirable soil structure. Q.-Do all soil microbes live in harmony in the soil? Not at all. Each kind struggles for its life. Competition for food, water, and other needs of life is constantly going on in the soil. Great changes take place by the minute and continue through the years. The result is soil formation and plant growth. Q.-Why do plants do so well in seed flats that contain a rich supply of fresh compost? It has been shown that fresh compost contains a high flora of beneficial soil microbes. Some of these suppress other micro- organisms which are the disease producers. This is a part of na- ture's intricate plan for survival. Q.-I have heard that the soil microbes seen under a microscope possess form and beauty similar to a fower garden. Is this true? All shapes, forms, and colors exist among the flora and fauna of the soil. It is a surprise and thrill to view the living soil through a microscope for the first time. Q.-Do all soils have the same number and kind of micro- organisms? Not all soils contain the same number and kinds of micro- organisms. The number and kind will vary greatly with the en- vironmental condition of the soil microbes, such as winter or summer, desert or humid areas, organic or inorganic soils. Q.-Do all of the microbes in the soil need preformed organic carbon to live? At least two groups, the algae and autotrophic bacteria acquire their supply of carbon from carbon dioxide similar to higher plants. Q.-Is it true that soil is alive? and actinomycetes. Since they tie the soil together, they may be referred to as nature's seamsters. Conservation of soil and water is greatly dependent on this desirable soil structure. Q.-Do all soil microbes live in harmony in the soil? Not at all. Each kind struggles for its life. Competition for food, water, and other needs of life is constantly going on in the soil. Great changes take place by the minute and continue through the years. The result is soil formation and plant growth. Q.-Why do plants do so well in seed flats that contain a rich supply of fresh compost? It has been shown that fresh compost contains a high flora of beneficial soil microbes. Some of these suppress other micro- organisms which are the disease producers. This is a part of na- ture's intricate plan for survival. Q.-I have heard that the soil microbes seen under a microscope possess form and beauty similar to a flower garden. Is this true? All shapes, forms, and colors exist among the flora and fauna of the soil. It is a surprise and thrill to view the living soil through a microscope for the first time. Q.-Do all soils have the same number and kind of micro- organisms? Not all soils contain the same number and kinds of micro- organisms. The number and kind will vary greatly with the en- vironmental condition of the soil microbes, such as winter or summer, desert or humid areas, organic or inorganic soils. Q.-Do all of the microbes in the soil need preformed organic carbon to live? At least two groups, the algae and autotrophic bacteria acquire their supply of carbon from carbon dioxide similar to higher plants. Q.-Is it true that soil is alive?  134 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 134 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 134 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Soil, very much alive, is teeming with the largest collection of creatures from the animal and vegetable kingdoms, more so than any other medium. It has been stated that humus is made up of one-half living and dead cells, not to mention an equal mass found in the more inorganic portion of the soil. Q.-Can you give me some idea as to the number of bacteria and fungi existing in the soil? A thimbleful of soil can contain 2 billion bacteria, about 20 mil- lion fungi, and perhaps 200 thousand protozoa. Q.-Do soil microbes take part in the natural weathering of soil? Soil microbes take an important and active part in soil weather- ing. The reduction of rocks and minerals in size, indirect action of organic acids on these minerals, and the formation of humus are all part of natural weathering and formation of soil. Q.-I have heard that the sole source of vitamin B, is from a certain kind of soil microbe. Is this true? This is correct. Streptomycetes are cultivated in the laboratory for production of the vitamin B, so useful in the treatment of ane- mia. Soil, very much alive, is teeming with the largest collection of creatures from the animal and vegetable kingdoms, more so than any other medium. It has been stated that humus is made up of one-half living and dead cells, not to mention an equal mass found in the more inorganic portion of the soil. Q.-Can you give me some idea as to the number of bacteria and fungi existing in the soil? A thimbleful of soil can contain 2 billion bacteria, about 20 mil- lion fungi, and perhaps 200 thousand protozoa. Q.-Do soil microbes take part in the natural weathering of soil? Soil microbes take an important and active part in soil weather- ing. The reduction of rocks and minerals in size, indirect action of organic acids on these minerals, and the formation of humus are all part of natural weathering and formation of soil. Q.-I have heard that the sole source of vitamin B,, is from a certain kind of soil microbe. Is this true? This is correct. Streptomycetes are cultivated in the laboratory for production of the vitamin B, , so useful in the treatment of ane- mia. Soil, very much alive, is teeming with the largest collection of creatures from the animal and vegetable kingdoms, more so than any other medium. It has been stated that humus is made up of one-half living and dead cells, not to mention an equal mass found in the more inorganic portion of the soil. Q.-Can you give me some idea as to the number of bacteria and fungi existing in the soil? A thimbleful of soil can contain 2 billion bacteria, about 20 mil- lion fungi, and perhaps 200 thousand protozoa. Q.-Do soil microbes take part in the natural weathering of soil? Soil microbes take an important and active part in soil weather- ing. The reduction of rocks and minerals in size, indirect action of organic acids on these minerals, and the formation of humus are all part of natural weathering and formation of soil. Q.-I have heard that the sole source of vitamin Ba is from a certain kind of soil microbe. Is this true? This is correct. Streptomycetes are cultivated in the laboratory for production of the vitamin B12, so useful in the treatment of ane- mia.  TEN X, X TEN X, X TEN X Harmful Organisms and Their Control Q.-What effect has soil fumigation on available nitrogen? Oxidation of nitrogen in the soil is a biological process and as such is retarded by soil fumigation. The effects may last from one to as much as ten weeks, depending on materials used. The more commonly-used fumigants will disappear from the soil in about two weeks. Q.-Can soil, rather than the plants, be treated with an insecti- cide to control insects? Certain insects that make their home in the soil may be treated in this manner. Chlordane dust applied to an anthill will con- trol ants in that area, both in the soil and on the plant. Q.-What is the most economical way of controlling nematodes in home gardens? The most economical way to control nematodes in your garden soil is to rotate the garden crops and also the garden site. You should have two garden sites and rotate from one to the other every three years, allowing a weed-free sod to be established dur- ing the intervening period, 135 Harmful Organisms and Their Control Q.-What effect has soil fumigation on available nitrogen? Oxidation of nitrogen in the soil is a biological process and as such is retarded by soil fumigation. The effects may last from one to as much as ten weeks, depending on materials used. The more commonly-used fumigants will disappear from the soil in about two weeks. Q.-Can soil, rather than the plants, be treated with an insecti- cide to control insects? Certain insects that make their home in the soil may be treated in this manner. Chlordane dust applied to an anthill will con- trol ants in that area, both in the soil and on the plant. Q.-What is the most economical way of controlling nematodes in home gardens? The most economical way to control nematodes in your garden soil is to rotate the garden crops and also the garden site. You should have two garden sites and rotate from one to the other every three years, allowing a weed-free sod to be established dur- ing the intervening period. 135 Harmful Organisms and Their Control Q.-What effect has soil fumigation on available nitrogen? Oxidation of nitrogen in the soil is a biological process and as such is retarded by soil fumigation. The effects may last from one to as much as ten weeks, depending on materials used. The more commonly-used fumigants will disappear from the soil in about two weeks. Q.-Can soil, rather than the plants, be treated with an insecti- cide to control insects? Certain insects that make their home in the soil may be treated in this manner. Chlordane dust applied to an anthill will con- trol ants in that area, both in the soil and on the plant. Q.-What is the most economical way of controlling nematodes in home gardens? The most economical way to control nematodes in your garden soil is to rotate the garden crops and also the garden site. You should have two garden sites and rotate from one to the other every three years, allowing a weed-free sod to be established dur- ing the intervening period. 135  136 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-Can I spread root-knot by hauling in infested soil? Hauling in infested soil is one of the surest ways to spread root- knot nematodes in your garden. Q.-What are the disadvantages of artificial fumigation of soil over natural means for nematode control? The disadvantage is the high cost and the relatively large amount of equipment necessary for successful soil fumigation of large areas. Q.-What are the benefits of artificial fumigation of soil over natural means for nematode control? The artificial fumigation method is faster and more thorough. You can use the same garden plot indefinitely. Q.-Can I reduce the population of nematodes in my soil by starving them out or flooding them out? Yes, you can. They can be starved out by letting the garden lie idle for two or three years while using another site for growing vegetables. If the garden is located in a low area where the water table may be near the surface, it is possible to raise the water table over the surface and flood them out. In the first case, the host plant is removed from the nematodes; in the second method, the necessary supply of air required by plant parasitic nematodes for life activity is cut off. Q.-Will crop rotation help control root-knot? Yes. Crop rotation is more effective when used in conjunction with a soil-rotation program. This calls for rotating'the garden site every three or four years. Q.-Will the continued use of fumigants eventually kill the soil? No, it will not eventually kill the soil. All modern fumigants are volatile. After the desired contact period with the soil, these fumi- gants migrate to the atmosphere as a gas and disappear completely from the soil. The soil microbe population may be reduced in numbers for a short period of time only. As shown by research, 136 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-Can I spread root-knot by hauling in infested soil? Hauling in infested soil is one of the surest ways to spread root- knot nematodes in your garden. Q.-What are the disadvantages of artificial fumigation of soil over natural means for nematode control? The disadvantage is the high cost and the relatively large amount of equipment necessary for successful soil fumigation of large areas. Q.-What are the benefits of artificial fumigation of soil over natural means for nematode control? The artificial fumigation method is faster and more thorough. You can use the same garden plot indefinitely. Q.-Can I reduce the population of nematodes in my soil by starving them out or flooding them out? Yes, you can. They can be starved out by letting the garden lie idle for two or three years while using another site for growing vegetables. If the garden is located in a low area where the water table may be near the surface, it is possible to raise the water table over the surface and flood them out. In the first case, the host plant is removed from the nematodes; in the second method, the necessary supply of air required by plant parasitic nematodes for life activity is cut off. Q.-Will crop rotation help control root-knot? Yes. Crop rotation is more effective when used in conjunction with a soil-rotation program. This calls for rotating the garden site every three or four years. Q.-Will the continued use of fumigants eventually kill the soil? No, it will not eventually kill the soil. All modern fumigants are volatile. After the desired contact period with the soil, these fumi- gants migrate to the atmosphere as a gas and disappear completely from the soil. The soil microbe population may be reduced in numbers for a short period of time only. As shown by research, 136 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS Q.-Can I spread root-knot by hauling in infested soil? Hauling in infested soil is one of the surest ways to spread root- knot nematodes in your garden. Q.-What are the disadvantages of artificial fumigation of soil over natural means for nematode control? The disadvantage is the high cost and the relatively large amount of equipment necessary for successful soil fumigation of large areas. Q.-What are the benefits of artificial fumigation of soil over natural means for nematode control? The artificial fumigation method is faster and more thorough. You can use the same garden plot indefinitely. Q.-Can I reduce the population of nematodes in my soil by starving them out or flooding them out? Yes, you can. They can be starved out by letting the garden lie idle for two or three years while using another site for growing vegetables. If the garden is located in a low area where the water table may be near the surface, it is possible to raise the water table over the surface and flood them out. In the first case, the host plant is removed from the nematodes; in the second method, the necessary supply of air required by plant parasitic nematodes for life activity is cut off. Q.-Will crop rotation help control root-knot? Yes. Crop rotation is more effective when used in conjunction with a soil-rotation program. This calls for rotating the garden site every three or four years. Q.-Will the continued use of fumigants eventually kill the soil? No, it will not eventually kill the soil. All modern fumigants are volatile. After the desired contact period with the soil, these fumi- gants migrate to the atmosphere as a gas and disappear completely from the soil. The soil microbe population may be reduced in numbers for a short period of time only. As shown by research,  HARMFUL ORGANISMS 137 HARMFUL ORGANISMS 137 the microbial population of a soil that has been properly sterilized will actually increase in numbers after the fumigant leaves the soil. Q.-Why do my tomato plants begin to die at about the time they should begin to produce? Tomato plants are susceptible to both early and late wilt. Late wilt attacks the tomato plant just prior to setting fruit. Both of these soil-borne diseases are difficult to control. Wilt-resistant to- mato plants and a rotation of garden sites are probably the most practical solutions of this problem. Q.-How can I get rid of pests prior to planting my new lawn? The best way is to use several pressure cans of methyl bromide as called for by directions. Cover this area with a large sheet of polyethelene to hold the gas within the soil. Then allow the soil to fumigate for about three weeks. After two additional weeks, remove the plastic and plant the new lawn. Q.-Is soil sterilization necessary? This would depend on what the soil is used for. If it is used for potted plants, greenhouse benches, small gardens, or landscape work, soil sterilization is an important part of the management program. It would not be practical or economical to consider soil sterilization for field crop soils or very large commercial vegetable- growing enterprises. Q.-What are nematodes? Nematodes are microscopic eelworms and are found in all soils. In numbers, there tay be as many as 45 billion per acre slice of soil. Most nematodes are beneficial, living on decaying organic matter. Only a relative few are parasitic, attacking the roots of higher plants. It is these parasitic nematodes, especially the root- knot nematode, that concern the gardener. Q.-Can nematodes and other soil-borne organisms be transported from place to place by the sale and shipment of potted plants? the microbial population of a soil that has been properly sterilized will actually increase in numbers after the fumigant leaves the soil. Q.-Why do my tomato plants begin to die at about the time they should begin to produce? Tomato plants are susceptible to both early and late wilt. Late wilt attacks the tomato plant just prior to setting fruit. Both of these soil-borne diseases are difficult to control. Wilt-resistant to- mato plants and a rotation of garden sites are probably the most practical solutions of this problem. Q.-How can I get rid of pests prior to planting my new lawn? The best way is to use several pressure cans of methyl bromide as called for by directions. Cover this area with a large sheet of polyethelene to hold the gas within the soil. Then allow the soil to fumigate for about three weeks. After two additional weeks, remove the plastic and plant the new lawn. Q.-Is soil sterilization necessary? This would depend on what the soil is used for. If it is used for potted plants, greenhouse benches, small gardens, or landscape work, soil sterilization is an important part of the management program. It would not be practical or economical to consider soil sterilization for field crop soils or very large commercial vegetable- growing enterprises. Q.-What are nematodes? Nematodes are microscopic eelworms and are found in all soils. In numbers, there ray be as many as 45 billion per acre slice of soil. Most nematodes are beneficial, living on decaying organic matter. Only a relative few are parasitic, attacking the roots of higher plants. It is these parasitic nematodes, especially the root- knot nematode, that concern the gardener. Q.-Can nematodes and other soil-borne organisms be transported from place to place by the sale and shipment of potted plants? HARMFUL ORGANISMS 137 the microbial population of a soil that has been properly sterilized will actually increase in numbers after the fumigant leaves the soil. Q.-Why do my tomato plants begin to die at about the time they should begin to produce? Tomato plants are susceptible to both early and late wilt. Late wilt attacks the tomato plant just prior to setting fruit. Both of these soil-borne diseases are difficult to control. Wilt-resistant to- mato plants and a rotation of garden sites are probably the most practical solutions of this problem. Q.-How can I get rid of pests prior to planting my new lawn? The best way is to use several pressure cans of methyl bromide as called for by directions. Cover this area with a large sheet of polyethelene to hold the gas within the soil. Then allow the soil to fumigate for about three weeks. After two additional weeks, remove the plastic and plant the new lawn. Q.-Is soil sterilization necessary? This would depend on what the soil is used for. If it is used for potted plants, greenhouse benches, small gardens, or landscape work, soil sterilization is an important part of the management program. It would not be practical or economical to consider soil sterilization for field crop soils or very large commercial vegetable- growing enterprises. Q.-What are nematodes? Nematodes are microscopic eelworms and are found in all soils. In numbers, there tnay be as many as 45 billion per acre slice of soil. Most nematodes are beneficial, living on decaying organic matter. Only a relative few are parasitic, attacking the roots of higher plants. It is these parasitic nematodes, especially the root- knot nematode, that concern the gardener. Q.-Cas nematodes and other soil-borne organisms be transported from place to place by the sale and shipment of potted plants?  138 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS This is probably one of the principal ways in which clean soils are infested with soil-borne disease organisms. For example, a gardener may set tomato plants from containers that are infested with harmful nematodes. By doing so, he is inoculating the garden soil with these nematodes. It is important to make certain that plant-sets are grown in clean or sterilized soil. Q.-What is a simple way of getting rid of ants in soil? Five per cent chlordane in powder form is recommended for ant control. The chlordane dust should be spread over the infested area according to directions on the package. Some fertilizers in- clude chlordane in their mixture for the control of ants and other insects. Q.-Is it impossible to grow plants in soil infested with nema- todes? It is difficult but not impossible. Certain plants, such as the fig tree, are susceptible to root-knot nematodes. The only way to grow figs successfully in Florida is to maintain a heavy mulch at all times and to apply fertilizer regularly. This method provides such ideal conditions for the fig tree that it grows in spite of the nema- tode infestation. The mulch method is used for many other shrubs and plants. Q.-Can I use boiling water to sterilize small seedbed flats? The use of boiling water is an excellent way to partially sterilize small seedbed flats. The soil should be loose and spread as thinly as possible. Boiling water should be poured over the thin layer of soil until it is well soaked. The partially sterilized soil is ready for use after it has drained to the desired meisture content. The term partial sterilization is used because boiling water will not kill spores of more resistant bacteria and fungi unless they are boiled for several hours, or for shorter periods of time on succes- sive days, for several days. Q.--How will I know if plants have nematodes? The first indication is a definite stunting of the plant. When 138 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS This is probably one of the principal ways in which clean soils are infested with soil-borne disease organisms. For example, a gardener may set tomato plants from containers that are infested with harmful nematodes. By doing so, he is inoculating the garden soil with these nematodes. It is important to make certain that plant-sets are grown in clean or sterilized soil. Q.-What is a simple way of getting rid of ants in soil? Five per cent chlordane in powder form is recommended for ant control. The chlordane dust should be spread over the infested area according to directions on the package. Some fertilizers in- clude chlordane in their mixture for the control of ants and other insects. Q.-Is it impossible to grow plants in soil infested with nema- todes? It is difficult but not impossible. Certain plants, such as the fig tree, are susceptible to root-knot nematodes. The only way to grow figs successfully in Florida is to maintain a heavy mulch at all times and to apply fertilizer regularly. This method provides such ideal conditions for the fig tree that it grows in spite of the nema- tode infestation. The mulch method is used for many other shrubs and plants. Q.-Can I use boiling water to sterilize small seedbed flats? The use of boiling water is an excellent way to partially sterilize small seedbed flats. The soil should be loose and spread as thinly as possible. Boiling water should be poured over the thin layer of soil until it is well soaked. The partially sttrilized soil is ready for use after it has drained to the desired tsisture content. The term partial sterilization is used because boiling water will not kill spores of more resistant bacteria and fungi unless they are boiled for several hours, or for shorter periods of time on succes- sive days, for several days. Q.--How will I know if plants have nematodes? The first indication is a definite stunting of the plant. When 138 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SoILS This is probably one of the principal ways in which clean soils are infested with soil-borne disease organisms. For example, a gardener may set tomato plants from containers that are infested with harmful nematodes. By doing so, he is inoculating the garden soil with these nematodes. It is important to make certain that plant-sets are grown in clean or sterilized soil. Q.--What is a simple way of getting rid of ants in soil? Five per cent chlordane in powder form is recommended for ant control. The chlordane dust should be spread over the infested area according to directions on the package. Some fertilizers in- clude chlordane in their mixture for the control of ants and other insects. Q.-Is it impossible to grow plants in soil infested with nema- todes? It is difficult but not impossible. Certain plants, such as the fig tree, are susceptible to root-knot nematodes. The only way to grow figs successfully in Florida is to maintain a heavy mulch at all times and to apply fertilizer regularly. This method provides such ideal conditions for the fig tree that it grows in spite of the nema- tode infestation. The mulch method is used for many other shrubs and plants. Q.-Can I use boiling water to sterilize small seedbed flats? The use of boiling water is an excellent way to partially sterilize small seedbed flats. The soil should be loose and spread as thinly as possible. Boiling water should be poured over the thin layer of soil until it is well soaked. The partially sterilized soil is ready for use after it has drained to the desired meisture content. The term partial sterilization is used because boiling water will not kill spores of more resistant bacteria and fungi unless they are boiled for several hours, or for shorter periods of time on succes- sive days, for several days. Q.-How will I know if plants have nematodes? The first indication is a definite stunting of the plant. When  HARMFUL ORGANISMS 139 HARMFUL ORGANISMS 139 HARMFUL ORGANISMS 139 the plant is carefully pulled or dug out of the soil, the roots will be short and stubby. Rather than a healthy gray or white color, they will be dark brown. If root-knot nematodes are present and attacking the plants, the roots will have galls or enlargements typical of this parasite. Q.-Why do some vegetables do well in the same garden plot for two or three years; then in succeeding years, many of them become stunted or die before maturing? Like all soil microbes, disease organisms find the garden en- vironment ideal for growth and activity. The garden also sup- plies the host plant for many of these disease organisms. After a few years, these pests accumulate to such an extent that certain vegetables cannot be grown successfully or at all. The simplest way to control the accumulation of these pests is to move the garden to a new location. Allow the old garden site to remain fal- low for two or three years. Q.-What causes root-knot? Root-knot is caused by a microscopic soil eelvorm called a root- knot nematode. These parasitic nematodes attack the roots of higher plants causing the roots to be galled or knotty. Thus, the term root-knot. Q.-Can I treat soil around growing plants to kill nematodes? Only to a limited extent, Most fumigating chemicals will kill growing plants. A few comniercial chemicals have been developed to give partial control of root-knot nematodes around growing plants. These specialized chemicals' should be used with due con- sideration to the directions supplied with them. Q.-Is recontamination of a fumigated soil a problem? Yes, carelessness can undo all the good that has been done. Nothing should be taken to the garden that could reinfest the newly-treated soil. Q.-After the garden soil has been fumigated, when is it safe to plant? the plant is carefully pulled or dug out of the soil, the roots will be short and stubby. Rather than a healthy gray or white color, they will be dark brown. If root-knot nematodes are present and attacking the plants, the roots will have galls or enlargements typical of this parasite. Q.-Why do some vegetables do well in the same garden plot for two or three years; then in succeeding years, many of them become stunted or die before maturing? Like all soil microbes, disease organisms find the garden en- vironment ideal for growth and activity. The garden also sup- plies the host plant for many of these disease organisms. After a few years, these pests accumulate to such an extent that certain vegetables cannot be grown successfully or at all. The simplest way to control the accumulation of these pests is to move the garden to a new location. Allow the old garden site to remain fal- low for two or three years. Q.-What causes root-knot? Root-knot is caused by a microscopic soil eelvorm called a root- knot nematode. These parasitic nematodes attack the roots of higher plants causing the roots to be galled or knotty. Thus, the term root-knot. Q.-Can I treat soil around growing plants to kill nematodes? Only to a limited extent. Most fumigating chemicals will kill growing plants. A few comniercial chemicals have been developed to give partial control of root-knot nematodes around growing plants. These specialized chemicals'should be used with due con- sideration to the directions supplied with them. Q.-Is recontamination of a fumigated soil a problem? Yes, carelessness can undo all the good that has been done. Nothing should be taken to the garden that could reinfest the newly-treated soil, Q.-After the garden soil has been fumigated, when is it safe to plant? the plant is carefully pulled or dug out of the soil, the roots will be short and stubby. Rather than a healthy gray or white color, they will be dark brown. If root-knot nematodes are present and attacking the plants, the roots will have galls or enlargements typical of this parasite. Q.-Why do some vegetables do well in the same garden plot for two or three years; then in succeeding years, many of them become stunted or die before maturing? Like all soil microbes, disease organisms find the garden en- vironment ideal for growth and activity. The garden also sup- plies the host plant for many of these disease organisms. After a few years, these pests accumulate to such an extent that certain vegetables cannot be grown successfully or at all. The simplest way to control the accumulation of these pests is to move the garden to a new location. Allow the old garden site to remain fal- low for two or three years. Q.-What causes root-knot? Root-knot is caused by a microscopic soil eelvorm called a root- knot nematode. These parasitic nematodes attack the roots of higher plants causing the roots to be galled or knotty. Thus, the term root-knot. Q.-Can I treat soil around growing plants to kill nematodes? Only to a limited extent. Most fumigating chemicals will kill growing plants. A few comniercial chemicals have been developed to give partial control of root-knot nematodes around growing plants. These specialized chemicals should be used with due con- sideration to the directions supplied with them. Q.-Is recontamination of a fumigated soil a problem? Yes, carelessness can undo all the good that has been done. Nothing should be taken to the garden that could reinfest the newly-treated soil. Q.-After the garden soil has been fumigated, when is it safe to plant?  140 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS In approximately 21 days. For specific fumigants, such as methyl bromide, less than one week is sufficient. To be on the safe side for all fumigants, however, it is generally best to allow the soil to rest for the full 21 days. Q.-How can the soil type affect soil fumigation? In light sandy soils, fumigants are highly effective. To make soil fumigation more effective in either clayey soils or soils high in organic matter, the dosage is generally increased. Q.-Please list a few common factors that affect the successful application of soil fumigants? The following are perhaps the most dominant causes of success or failure of soil fumigation: 1. Selecting the proper fumigant. 2. Preparation of the soil. 3. Proper soil moisture condition. 4. Proper temperature of the soil. 5. Consideration of the soil type. Q.-What is the single most common cause of failure from soil fumigation? Failure to read the instructions carefully on the fumigant con- taiiier. Q.-What is a good fumigant to use in a seed flat? One of the best is a formaldehyde drench. Generally about 1 qt. of diluted formaldehyde solution per sq. ft. of flat will give good control of fungus. Q.-Besides for garden use, what are some other uses of soil fumigants? Soil fumigants may be used in greenhouses, flower beds and benches, seed flats, or oiy small plot of soil. Q.-Prior to fumigation, I have noticed my neighbor marking off his garden soil in carefully-planned squares. What is he doing? 140 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 140 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS In approximately 21 days. For specific fumigants, such as methyl bromide, less than one week is sufficient. To be on the safe side for all fumigants, however, it is generally best to allow the soil to rest for the full 21 days. Q.--Hlow can the soil type affect soil fumigation? In light sandy soils, fumigants are highly effective. To make soil fumigation more effective in either clayey soils or soils high in organic matter, the dosage is generally increased. Q.-Please list a few common factors that affect the successful application of soil fumigants? The following are perhaps the most dominant causes of success or failure of soil fumigation: 1. Selecting the proper fumigant. 2. Preparation of the soil. 3. Proper soil moisture condition. 4. Proper temperature of the soil. 5. Consideration of the soil type. Q.--What is the single most common cause of failure from soil fumigation? Failure to read the instructions carefully on the fumigant con- tainer. Q.-What is a good fumigant to use in a seed flat? One of the best is a formaldehyde drench. Generally about 1 qt. of diluted formaldehyde solution per sq. ft. of flat will give good control of fungus. Q.-Besides for garden use, what are sotie other uses of soil fumigants? Soil fumigants may be used in greenhouses, flower beds and benches, seed flats, or kiy small plot of soil. Q.-Prior to fumigation, I have noticed my neighbor marking off his garden soil in carefully-planned squares. What is he doing? In approximately 21 days. For specific fumigants, such as methyl bromide, less than one week is sufficient. To be on the safe side for all fumigants, however, it is generally best to allow the soil to rest for the full 21 days. Q.-How can the soil type affect soil fumigation? In light sandy soils, fumigants are highly effective. To make soil fumigation more effective in either clayey soils or soils high in organic matter, the dosage is generally increased. Q.-Please list a few common factors that affect the successful application of soil fumigants? The following are perhaps the most dominant causes of success or failure of soil fumigation: 1. Selecting the proper fumigant. 2. Preparation of the soil. 3. Proper soil moisture condition. 4. Proper temperature of the soil. 5. Consideration of the soil type. Q.--What is the single most common cause of failure from soil fumigation? Failure to read the instructions carefully on the fumigant con- tainer. Q.-What is a good fumigant to usein a seed flat? One of the best is a formaldehyde drench. Generally about 1 qt. of diluted formaldehyde solution per sq. ft. of flat will give good control of fungus. Q.--Besides for garden use, what are son; other uses of soil fumigants? Soil fumigants may b used in greenhouses, flower beds and benches, seed flats, or ariy small plot of soil. Q.-Prior to fumigation, I have noticed my neighbor marking off his garden soil in carefully-planned squares. What is he doing?  HARMFUL ORGANISMS 141 HARMFUL ORGANISMS 141 HARMFUL ORGANISMS 141 He is measuring the distance between each application of the liquid soil fumigant. By doing this, he is applying the correct amount of soil fumigant for the known size of his garden. Q.-Are there any solid forms of soil fumigants? Yes, there are both powdered and granular solid fumigants. These solid forms are applied directly to the soil and well mixed; or they may be dissolved or suspended in water and added to the soil as a drench. Q.-I thought that all soil fumigants were compressed gases in handy spray cans. I have been told that some are in liquid form. Is this true? Most commercial soil fumigants are liquids. When applied to the soil, the liquid changes to a gas. The diffusion of this gas will kill soil organisms at some distance from the point of application. Q.-Can properly fumigated soil be reinfested? Yes, even the best fumigated soil may be reinfested, but the build-up is quite slow. Q.-Why not spray soil fumigants on the surface, similar to the method used for fungicides? Soil fumigants become volatile, which makes them so effetdlise. What insecticides and fungicides do above ground, soil fsun ants accomplish below the ground, Q.-;tHow are soil fumigants-different from pesticides? Unlike most of the fungicides and insecticides, soil fumigants do not have a' prsistengpffect on the soil. Soon after fumigant gases leave by way of tlecatmosphere, friendly soil microbes return to the soil. Q.-Can weed seed be controlled by futnigants? If used under a gas-tight cover such aspolyethylene sheeting, chlorpicrin and methyl bromide give fine control of weed seeds. Q.-Is it possible to use fumigants for insects? Yes, several good fumigants for controlling insects can be applied He is measuring the distance between each application of the liquid soil fumigant. By doing this, he is applying the correct amount of soil fumigant for the known size of his garden. Q.-Are there any solid forms of soil fumigants? Yes, there are both powdered and granular solid fumigants. These solid forms are applied directly to the soil and well mixed; or they may be dissolved or suspended in water and added to the soil as a drench. Q.-I thought that all soil fumigants were compressed gases in handy spray cans. I have been told that some are in liquid form. Is this true? Most commercial soil fumigants are liquids. When applied to the soil, the liquid changes to a gas. The diffusion of this gas will kill soil organisms at some distance from the point of application. Q.-Can properly fumigated soil be reinfested? Yes, even the best fumigated soil may be reinfested, but the build-up is quite slow. Q.-Why not spray soil fumigants on the surface, similar to the method used for fungicides? Soil fumigants become volatile, which makes them so effeedlse. What insecticides and fungicides do above ground, soil fun4gants accomplish below the groaund. Q.-How are soil fumigantidifferent from pesticides? Unlike most of the fungicides and insecticides, soil fumigants do not have a'persistentpffect on the soil. Soon after fumigant gases leave by way of ,thatmosphere, friendly soil microbes return to the soil. Q.-Can weed seed be controlled by fumnjgants? If used under a gas-tight cover such as polyethylene sheeting, chlorpicrin and methyl bromide give fine control of weed seeds. Q.-Is it possible to use fumigants for insects? Yes, several good fumigants for controlling insects can be applied He is measuring the distance between each application of the liquid soil fumigant. By doing this, he is applying the correct amount of soil fumigant for the known size of his garden. Q.-Are there any solid forms of soil fumigants? Yes, there are both powdered and granular solid fumigants. These solid forms are applied directly to the soil and well mixed; or they may be dissolved or suspended in water and added to the soil as a drench. Q.-I thought that all soil fumigants were compressed gases in handy spray cans. I have been told that some are in liquid form. Is this true? Most commercial soil fumigants are liquids. When applied to the soil, the liquid changes to a gas. The diffusion of this gas will kill soil organisms at some distance from the point of application. Q.-Can properly fumigated soil be reinfested? Yes, even the best fumigated soil may be reinfested, but the build-up is quite slow. Q.-Why not spray soil fumigants on the surface, similar to the method used for fungicides? Soil fumigants become volatile, which makes them so effedve. What insecticides and fungicides do above ground, soil fungants accomplish below the ground Q.-sHow are soil fumiganti-different from pesticides? Unlike most of the fungicides and insecticides, soil fumigants do not have a persistentpffect on the soil. Soon after fumigant gases leave by way of tlwatmosphere, friendly soil microbes return to the soil. Q.-Can weed seed be controlled by fumigants? If used under a gas-tight cover such1aspolyethylene sheeting, chlorpicrin and methyl bromide give fine control of weed seeds. Q.-Is it possible to use fumigants for insects? Yes, several good fumigants for controlling insects can be applied  142 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS to soil. Fumigants listed for the control of nematodes are also used for the control of insects. Q.-What are a few good fumigants for fungi? Several good fumigants for fungi are chlorpicrin, formaldehyde, methyl bromide, and dichloropropene mixtures, if used under gas- tight covers. Q.-What are some of the best fumigants to use for nematodes? Some superior fumigants to use for nematodes are chlorpicrin, dichloropropene mixtures, ethylene dibromide, and methyl bro- mide. Q.-Is it important to apply soil fumigants in measured amounts? These are powerful chemicals; when they change to the gaseous form they cover a considerable area around the point of applica- tion. The quantity of any soil fumigant applied to the soil should be measured carefully, according to the directions. Q.-Should soil fumigants be handled with care? Soil fumigants should be handled with extremely great care. No person should use these chemicals without first reading carefully the directions for their use. In most instances, it may be advis- able 'to seek the advice and help of trained agriculturists. 142 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS 142 YOUR FLORIDA GARDEN SOILS to soil. Fumigants listed for the control of nematodes are also used for the control of insects. Q.-What are a few good fumigants for fungi? Several good fumigants for fungi are chlorpicrin, formaldehyde, methyl bromide, and dichloropropene mixtures, if used under gas- tight covers. Q.-What are some of the best fumigants to use for nematodes? Some superior fumigants to use for nematodes are chlorpicrin, dichloropropene mixtures, ethylene dibromide, and methyl bro- mide. Q.-Is it important to apply soil fumigants in measured amounts? These are powerful chemicals; when they change to the gaseous form they cover a considerable area around the point of applica- tion. The quantity of any soil fumigant applied to the soil should be measured carefully, according to the directions. Q.-Should soil fumigants be handled with care? Soil fumigants should be handled with extremely great care. No person should use these chemicals without first reading carefully the directions for their use. In most instances, it may be advis- ableto seek the advice and help of trained agriculturists. to soil. Fumigants listed for the control of nematodes are also used for the control of insects. Q.--What are a few good fumigants for fungi? Several good fumigants for fungi are chlorpicrin, formaldehyde, methyl bromide, and dichloropropene mixtures, if used under gas- tight covers. Q.-What are some of the best fumigants to use for nematodes? Some superior fumigants to use for nematodes are chlorpicrin, dichloropropene mixtures, ethylene dibromide, and methyl bro- mide. Q.-Is it important to apply soil fumigants in measured amounts? These are powerful chemicals; when they change to the gaseous form they cover a considerable area around the point of applica- tion. The quantity of any soil fumigant applied to the soil should be measured carefully, according to the directions. Q.-Should soil fumigants be handled with care? Soil fumigants should be handled with extremely great care. No person should use these chemicals without first reading carefully the directions for their use. In most instances, it may be advis- able'to seek the advice and help of trained agriculturists.  HOW TO MAKE AND USE YOUR OWN SOIL ACIDITY TESTING EQUIPMENT MATERIALS pH Indicator Dye: Have a pharmacist order about two ounces of a .04 per cent water solution of bromcresol purple indicator dye. Pour a portion of this indicator solution in a clean polyethelene dropper bottle. (The bottle should not have been used previously.) pH Testing Papers: Cut some high grade freezer wrapping paper (coated on one side with polyethylene plastic) into 1" x 2" squares. Store two or three dozen of these squares in a clean, wide-mouth screw-cap bottle. Soil Scoop: Small clean spoon. PROCEDURE FOR Sore TESTING Make a small scoop out of the testing paper by pinching over the one-inch side of the paper (glossy side up) and holding this folded part with the thumb and forefinger. Next, add about 1/2 teaspoon of air dry soil to the pinched end of the paper. Now, add indicator dye solution to this small amount of dry soil until it is well soaked, with a slight excess of liquid showing. Hold the paper steady for about thirty seconds, allow- ing the dye to equalize with the soil. Finally, slowly tilt the paper toward the open end, allowing a drop or two of the col- ored liquid to run onto the clean white surface of the paper. Compare the kind of cohfto pot the depth, with the table be- low, Record the nearest pllsblue for the soil sample. PH 'OLUES COLORS SOME PH PREFERENCES 5.0 ' .llow Too acid for vegetable garden soil, but best for azalea and camellia beds. 5.5 Orange Best for lawn soils. 6.0 Red Good for vegetable garden soils. 6.5 Maroon Best for.:egetable garden soils. Too sweet foracid-loving plants. 7.0 Purple Good for vegetable garden soils. Too sweet for all acid-loving plants. 143 HOW TO MAKE AND USE YOUR OWN SOIL ACIDITY TESTING EQUIPMENT MATERrALS pH Indicator Dye: Have a pharmacist order about two ounces of a .04 per cent water solution of bromcresol purple indicator dye. Pour a portion of this indicator solution in a clean polyethelene dropper bottle. (The bottle should not have been used previously.) pH Testing Papers: Cut some high grade freezer wrapping paper (coated on one side with polyethylene plastic) into 1" x 2" squares. Store two or three dozen of these squares in a clean, wide-mouth screw-cap bottle. Soil Scoop: Small clean spoon. PRoCEDURE FOR SOIL TESTING Make a small scoop out of the testing paper by pinching over the one-inch side of the paper (glossy side up) and holding this folded part with the thumb and forefinger. Next, add about %a teaspoon of air dry soil to the pinched end of the paper. Now, add indicator dye solution to this small amount of dry soil until it is well soaked, with a slight excess of liquid showing. Hold the paper steady for about thirty seconds, allow- ing the dye to equalize with the soil. Finally, slowly tilt the paper toward the open end, allowing a drop or two of the col- ored liquid to run onto the clean white surface of the paper. Compare the kind of color,'not the depth, with the table be- low, Record the nearest pHivalue for the soil sample. PH LUsES COLors SOME PH PREFERENCES 5.0 ' "llow Too acid for vegetable garden soil, but .-best for azalea and camellia beds. 5.5 Orange Best for lawn soils. 6.0 Red Good for vegetable garden soils. 6.5 Maroon Best fr: negetable garden soils. Too sweet for acid-loving plants, 7.0 Purple Good for vegetable garden soils. Too sweet for all acid-loving plants, 143 HOW TO MAKE AND USE YOUR OWN SOIL ACIDITY TESTING EQUIPMENT MATERIALS pH Indicator Dye: Have a pharmacist order about two ounces of a .04 per cent water solution of bromcresol purple indicator dye. Pour a portion of this indicator solution in a clean polyethelene dropper bottle. (The bottle should not have been used previously.) pH Testing Papers: Cut some high grade freezer wrapping paper (coated on one side with polyethylene plastic) into 1" x 2" squares. Store two or three dozen of these squares in a clean, wide-mouth screw-cap bottle. Soil Scoop: Small clean spoon. PRoCEDURE FOR SOIL TESTING Make a small scoop out of the testing paper by pinching over the one-inch side of the paper (glossy side up) and holding this folded part with the thumb and forefinger. Next, add about /2 teaspoon of air dry soil to the pinched end of the paper. Now, add indicator dye solution to this small amount of dry soil until it is well soaked, with a slight excess of liquid showing. Hold the paper steady for about thirty seconds, allow- ing the dye to equalize with the soil. Finally, slowly tilt the paper toward the open end, allowing a drop or two of the col- ored liquid to run onto the clean white surface of the paper. Compare the kind of eoonpot the depth, with the table be- low. Record the nearestjifiorblue for the soil sample. PH 41UES Coroos SOME PH PREFERENCES 5.0 , - 'llow Too acid for vegetable garden soil, but best for azalea and camellia beds. 5.5 Orange Best for lawn soils. 6.0 Red Good for vegetable garden soils. 6.5 Maroon Best for-vegetable garden soils. Too sweet for acid-loving plants. 7.0 Purple Good for vegetable garden soils. Too sweet for all acid-loving plants, 143  SUGGESTED AMOUNTS OF FERTILIZERS FOR FLORIDA GARDENS* HG Low AMUN FETLIE FETLIE 10'RO ARl miea soil 10-10-10 1/6 Sb. All myia soils 6-6-6 1/3 lb. All orai sls 0-10-20 1/6 lb. 100 SQ.FT 1 -2 lbs. 2 -4 lbs. 1 - 2 lbs. sesnby two o three ligbt applications of availble fom equal tooe nitogenma b ause excbssive veeatv growth an poo E or delyed fuit~ APPROXIATE AMOUNTS OF EURE GROUND AGRICULTURAL -LIMESTONE REQUIRED TO RAISE THE PH VALUE ONE UNIT FOR DIFFERENT SOIL TEXTURES Sandysoils 3 pouds Forsoils lo in~ orgaic metcr, reduche amont indicatd by 25 per cen. For soils bigb in orai atr double th muns NOTE To lowe th H value one unit, ueono-third he indicated amut npr elwarclua ufr 144 SUGGESTED AMOUNTS OF FERTILIZERS FOR FLORIDA GARDENS* IH Low~ AM~OUNT AMOUNT SOIL ANLYI AA YSI FR O FERIIE FETLIE 10' OW, 100 SQ.FT All miea soils 10-10-10 1/6 lb. 1 - 2 lbs. All minera soils 6-6-6 1/3 lb. 2 -4 lbs. All orgni soils 0-10-20 1/6 lb. 1 -2 lbs. *Tbhugestedgrades and aounts o felizers areintenddIfoHsils that bhve preous fetiize hsty. For more detailed informtiontk on witetoeAgiclturatlEtenionSeric. Top or- Side Dressing: Additia ntrolgent may be supetd during the sesnby Hwo ortbhe bigbt applicatn of available forms equal Hooe Meth~od of AEplication: A suerior method oS aoplying comeri fer- tilizer beoror ato tbe time of planting isto plc E the b ixed fortilizer in twobantd. Eahbbndtbshould b twtothrtbtinhstto teide of, ad oetotwoinceblow televltbotheseedoptngo. APPROXIMATE AMOUNTS OF OGRE GROUND AGRICULTURAL -LIMESTONE REQUIRED TO RAISE THE PH VALUE ONE UNIT FOR DIFFERENT SOIL TEXTURES lSOI. PUE ROUN ARIULURLoMSTN (per 100 squtare foot area) Santdy soilt Sootods' Loamty soilt S Eponds Silt loamsotandocly loamos 8 Etotnts For soils lows in ogni attr reduce tbe aouts indicafted by 25 OHr soot. For tois bigb in orgnicomtter, doubl tbe aontsol. NT:To Il-ote 1t pH value on unottit, use os-ltird tbe indoicteod amotstinurellowariultural slfu. 144 SUGGESTED AMOUNTS OF FERTILIZERS FOR FLORIDA GARDENSt HIH Loow AMOToso AMOTos lotL ANALYSIS ALSIStoFOott ORo ERoTotoZER FRILZE 10' OWt 100 tQ.FT All mtinetol toilt 10-10-10 I/b lb. 1 -2 lbs. All mtitteral soilt 6-6-6 1/3 lb. 2 -4 lb, All organtoils 0-10-20 1/6 lb. 1 -2 lbs. *Tbe sggested grades andl aounts of fertilizers are itended Str Hoils tbat baveo previous fottilizet hitory. For tttore detailed inormtonon special gadeso and amuts of comerial fertibozers Ofor tseifi ost, witeto theAgricutrlEtsioSeric. Top or Side Dreositng: Additiottal oitogen maty be supledS during tbhe sesnby twoo three ligbt applicatonso of available fottot eqoal to oe fouttoonet-alpond onirato sodtper 00qarefet. T osuc Mothod of Applicattion A supoior mthtod of applying c omercil lor- tilizet beoro or tat the tme of olating is to Elace tbo mixed fertlizer in twoband. Echbbdsould betto to tteeinchbs to tt idof,tand oneo to two inchbes belowtheOb leve of, tbt toed tor planting roow. APPROXIMATE AMOUNTS OF OGRE GROUND AGRICULTURAL - LIMESTONE REQUIRED TO RAISE THE PH VALUE ONE UNIT FOR DIFFERENTr SOIL TEXTURES SoIL PUEGRo o sOUN IUTRLLMETN (Oer10 square footoarea) Santdy soils 3 oundtol Loamtytsoils oundsto Silt loamstad cly loamst S EHunds Forsilslow iognicattesduce theoaounts indicatedbyl2Sert stot. Fot soils higb inoi tiif mtter, double oheaons, NT:To lower the pH value one unil, tose otte-tbiod the indicted aouontsinpureyllowagriclturlslfu. - 144  pH PREFERENCE FOR GARDEN PLANTS GOP Alyssum English Peas Poinsett eets Hollyhock Snpdragon pH 6.5 -7.0 Bottl Brush Jsmines Spirea Canidy Tift Lace Flowers Sweet Cluver Canna Larspur Sutsit Corns Carnation Lobeia Outsit Psa Claia Oleander Stols Cornfliuwer Oniuns Suluwes Dahlia eouty Wisteia SLIGHTL ACIDt Aficanu Visit Daylily Okri SESI tE RUP Amausyllis Easter Lily Peauts Aster Eggplant Peitunia Boccsoli Eudive Phiox Brussls Sprouts Esarole Pitnks Cabbage Pild Gust Privttu Culendula Gaillardia Pumupkin EH 6.0 -6.4 Calla Lily Hydraugea, Pink egal Lily Cataloupe Iris Romauine Cirrots Latana Spittach Celery Lettuce Squash Chrsutheumt Madontna Lily Tuomatu Cltrus Maigold Tuipt Cullards Mlustard White Clover Coso acssus Zinnia Cucumbher; Natrtu Ac= TuLERTuts Atmerican Hoilly Dogtwood Pansy GRU Bahda Grass Euglish Holly Saitut Augusineu Bermsuda Grass Gloxinia Grass Blaskeyed Pes Japanse Hoully Sabiosa ,fO 5.-5.9 Bougiuvillea Lupine OSarle Sigs S Calidisut Magttdi Strawtberrdes tCrape Myrtle Nictlanua Turks Cap SRONGYsACI Azalsi Cinnams Futu E San0ud Mytle TOEATGOPBlueberries Gardenuia Southerns Wit pH " Cumeliai Hydransgea, Bits Myrtle pH 45 -S.4 Carpt Gass Parsidgberry Watemonu -Cenipede Pottes 145 pH5 PREFERENCE FOR GARDEN PLANTS LosE RUIRINGso Abelia Delphiiumt Peruiikl GOP Alyssutm Entplish Puts Poinusettla Aficans Dusy Pus Gluts Puppy Aspurapus Gladioli Radiub Rachelor Button Hibisus Shasts Dasy Bees Hollyhusk Snapdragons pH 6.5 -7.0 Butlt Brush Jasmsine Spirei Candy Tuft Luce Flowert Sweet Cltver Casts Lorkspus Outsit Curs Carnaion Lobelia Swut Psi Clarkia Oleauder Ottubs Cornfluower Gniuts OSunflowers Dublia Peoy Wisteria SLIGHTY ACI Aficsin Violet Dailily Okra SE tITIE sGOU Amtasyllis Easter Lily Peatuts Alt Eggplant Petsuia Broscoli Enudive Philox Brsussels Sprouts Esiarols Pinuks Cubbupe Field Cuts Privet Calenula Guillardia Psumspkin pH 6.0 -6.4 Culls Lily Hydranpea, Pish Begal Lily Contaloups Iris Rsomaine Carots Lanustn Spinacsh Celery Lettuce Squash Chrytatheums Madotuna Lily Tomato - Clisrus Maroild Turips Collards Musstard Whits Clove Cosmos Narissus Zinnia Cuumbertt Nstoutium Acs TOEsANT Amersison Holly Duostood Patty GROU Bal Crass Euglish Holly Suit Aupgustinue Bermuudi Guss Gloinia Grass Blackeysd Pes Japanse Holly Scabiusi ,D .559 u'Bugainvsillea Lup~ine Sare Sg F ,Caladiumo Magnolia Strawberriss "Crutp Mytle Nicoiauna Turks Cup STONGLYsu ACsID Assisa Citnnamont Fesun 0Sd Myrtils TOEATGOPBlueberries Gordenia Southiern Wax Cuatellia Hydrangea, Bliue Mystle 1 pHl 4.- S.4 Carpet Gsass Pautlidgeberry Witermelon Cestdpde Putatoes 145 EpH PREFERENCE FOR GARDEN PLANTS LIMEs RU IRtuG Abelia Dtlpiisum Periwinle GOP Alyssutm English Pes Poinsetta African Dusy Pus Clots Puppy Asyaragus Cladioli Rudish Bachlors Rutton Hiibiscus Shasti Daisy Reess Hollyhock Snpdragons pH 6.5 -7.0 Bottle Brush Jasmline Spirea Condy Tuft List Flouter Sweet Clover Costs Larkspur Sweet doss Caaisons Lobelia Outsit Psi Clarkia Gleander Stocks Counfluower Oions OSuftloe Dahlia Peony Wisteria SLIGTLY ACID Africanu Violets Daylily Okra stSTIECOUP Amarsyllis Eister Lily Psiuts Aister Eggplant etunia roissili Endive Phlix Bussels Sprus Essiarole Pinkhs Cabbupe Pield Cornt Privt dulendula Gaillardia Pumupin pH 6.0 -6.4 Calli Lily Hydransgei, Fik Regal. Lily Catosups Iris Romauine Currouts Liitani Spinacsh Celory Lettuis Squaish Chryshnthemum Madotnna Lily Tuomato - Clorut Maripuld Turnuips Cllards Mulustard White Clouer Cuouto Naissus Zinniia ASO TOLERANT Amersica Holly Dogwtood Pasy GOP Bai Gratss English Hilly Sintu Augtustluni BerudauGrass Gloxhii Guss B lackeyedPes Japautese Holly Suabiusa Caladiums Magnuia Sitrawberis Gusapo Myitls Nisuianua Turks Cup STONGusY AsIt Azilei Citnnumonu ersn Stud Mytls uTOLERANTsGRtUPs Blueberriss Guardenita Southern Wit - - Camesullia Hydsiuge,- Rlus Muyrtle pH 4.5 -5.4 darpet Griss Parttidgeberry Watsermelonu Centdpsds Putatuss 145   Index Index Index Acid-dmadig plants, 107, 109 Cold protectio, 74 Acid-forming fertilizer, 99 Cold soil, 89 Acddpeat, 112 Colodal mateial, 54 Acid-sestv 0gplans, 110 Commerc,,ial fertize, 97 Acid soils, 110, 111 Com~plete fert0lze, 43 Acidifying soils, 112, 114 Complete p1lant food, 102 African-violet soil, 55 Compost: heap, 65, 71, 73, 75, 76; Air teperature, 81, 82 raosfr 4 ramn,7 Alkline,, soil, 99, 107 Copper: deiiny 124; neutral, 95 AIl-purpose fertilizer, 102 Cover crp, 16, 24, 28, 70 Aluminum,, sulfat, 112 Cttnsed mel 27 Amiiction, 127 Crop reidue,, 67 Ammonum ntrat, 93 Crop rtato, 136 Antibiotics, 131 Cutvain 28, 41; clan 33, 56 Azalea: deficiency, 117; fertie,,, 50, 90; soi1, 30, 42 Daylil0es, 40 Decompoition,, 127 Balanced fertilizer, 52 Dolomite, 115, 116 Basic fertilizer reomndtos 94 Dringe, 81, 84, 85 Black sils, 3, 54 Drou~ghty soils, 6 Biloom drop, 50 oggy soils, 86 Earhworm, 126, 132 0Bone meal, 92 Eseta elements, 60 Boron deficin,n 11 Excaatg, 11 Calcium: connt, 108; deficincyli, nlwsil, 22, 51 117, 121, 121; high calcium Fertilizer: application, 26, 21, 94; sol,97; ,nitat, 92 balan, 92; hrnds, 100; cr CG,,lli, fetOlize, 50, 90 riers, 93; cosrain 18; cost, Capillany . water, 88 93, 100; drilIng, 17; elemen, Cahbon dioxid, 107 99; exesiv, 31; formula1, 96; Celulose digesos,7 frquncy, 50; grade, 97, 98; Chelated irn,, 33 eahing,. 16; maaeet 58; Chlordane dust, 135 placemnt, 39, 44, 37, 58; rai, Cirus dnoyaj, 27; ferflizer, 49 91-, 06; rquiremnt, 93; split Clay soil, 1,3,% 29 aphiatdn, 31, 57; tag, 101; Clean-tilled cP*P, 53, 56 washing in, 31, 44 Clover, 59 Fla n ds, 19 147 Adid-demading plants, 107, 109 Acid-forming fel1izers, 95 Acddpeat, 112 Acid-sensitiveplans, 110 Adid soil,, 110, 111 Acidifingnsoil, 112, 114 Air teperatur, 81, 82 Alkaline noil, 99, 107 All-purpose felpzer, 102 Ammon,,ificatio, 127 Ammniumhnitrate, 93 Ant6iitics, 131 Azalea: deficincy, 117; fertl8z, 50, 90, soil, 30, 42 Baland fertilizer, 52 Basesaturaion, 111 Basd fertilizer,,recommendation, 94 Basic slag, 90 Black soul, 3, 94 Bloom ,drop, 50 Boggy sol, 86 Boron, deficieny, 119 117, 121, 120, highcaiu sol,97; ntte 92 Camelifertilizer,00090 Catpillary wtt, 88 Cahbon dioxd, 107 Cellulose digestors, 73 Chelated io,3 Citus dooty1, 27; fertiize, 49 Clay soil, 1, 'Z 9 Clttt-dle0 c'tps, 53, 96 Cilover, 59 147 Cold protection, 74 Cold sil, 89 Complete feli0, 43 Complete pilant food, 102 Compot: heap, 69, 71, 73, 75, 76; Copper: defidiency, 124; ntral,,, 95 Coe crop, 16, 24, 28, 70 Cottnseed meal1, 27 Croptresidue,;67 Crp rttion,, 136 Cult6vaton, 25, 41; clen,, 53, 56 Daylitne, 40 Decomposition, 127 Dolomit, 110, 116 Drainage, 81, 14, 85 Drepdged soil, 11 Droghty soils, 6 Earthwor,,, 126, 132 Essent6al dlements, 69 Excavating, 11 Exchangecapaciy, 108- Fallow, soil, 22, 51 Ferilizer: applicatin, 26, 28, 94; balance,, 52; brands, 100; cr 95, 100; drilllng, 57; elements, 99; excessiv, 31; fomua 96; frequency, 50; grade, 97, 99; leaching,. 16; mngement,, 58; ptlacement, 35, 44, 97, 58; rati, 99, 96; requirement,, 53; split appliction,, 31, 97; tag, 101; washing i, 31, 43 Fit Ilands, 19 Acid-deman,,ding plants, 107, 109 Cold protection, 74 Acid-fin,g fertilizert, 95 Cold toil, 89 Adid peat, 112 Colloidal materil, 14 Adid-,enstiveplants 110 Commerialftilize, 97 Acid soils, 110, 111 Complete felizer,, 43 Acidifying nutl, 112, 114 Complete piant foodd 102 Africn-vilt so, 55 Compot: heap, 69, 71, 73, 73, 76; Alkline, soil, 99, 107 Copper: deficiency, 124; ,nutIa, 95 All-purpose fertlizer, 102 Cove crp, 16, 24, 28, 70 Ammon,,ification, 127 Croptreidu, 67 Ammonium ntitratt,93 Crop rtt6o,136 Antibiotics, 131 Cultivton,, 28, 41; ciltan, 93, 56 Azalea deficiency, 117; fetilize, 50, 90, soil, 00, 42 Daylil0es, 40 Decompotion, 127 Btatand fertilize, 02 Dolomite, 115, 116 Basic sltg, 90 Dre~dged soilst 11 Blacktsils, 0, 54 Droughty toihs, 6 Eloom, drop, 50 Bggy soilt, 86 Earthwor,,t 126, 132 8Boron defidiency, 119 Excat,ng, 11 Brown subsotil,l1 Exchangecapadiy, 108 - Calcium: content, 108; dedcieny, Ftllow soil, 22, 51 117, 121, 120; high calium,, Fertilizer: application,, 26, 28, 94; stilt, 57; nitrte, 92 ba1lanc, 92; brands, 100; car- Camelhaet,Oiize, 50,90 riert, 93; cnservtion,, 18; cott, Catpilltry wter, 88 95, 100; drilling, 07; elemets, Carbon, dioxide, 107 99; excessiv, 31; fomua 96; Cellulose digesers, 70 frequeny, 50; grad, 97, 98; Chelated i,,, 33 Ieaching,. 16; managemnt, 58; Chlordtane dust, 139 pltaceet, 39, 44, 57, 58; rt, Citrus: doory,. 27; fertilsze, 49 91, 06; requtirenent, 53; tplit Clay soil, 1,93,29 appicatio, 31, 57; ttg, 101; CI,,,,-60,0e cjps, 53, 36 wshing int, 31, 44 Clover, 59 Fiat Itands, 19 147  148 INDEX Florda, soih, 8, 9, 89 48, 93; soiil, 40; sprinkling, 88 Flower, hed mngement,,,,, 40 Leihhed soil, 12, 14, 21 Foliage feedhng, 30, 50 Leaching, 36, 50 Fiendly microbehs, 129 Leaf-ddip, 26 Fum,,igantsi: applicaion,,, 140, 142; Legume,,, 128; hbattera, 130; iou liquid, 141; solid, 141 laion,,, 129 Fuigion, of8 soil, 135, 136, 137, Leo ine san ,~ds, 3 139, 140 Lime: elmet, 84, 99;maeal Fugicides, 141, 142 93 Gadn fert,6iizer amount, 46; ho- miic, 113, 116; ground, 116 cain 94; siroio , 139; Liminhg, 113, 114, 113, 116 soi1, 5, 23; spray, 26; sprinler,, Literiture source, 53 Gladioli fert,6iizat,,on, 98 Low, goud, 11 Granular fertilier, 49 Grasst cippings, 79 Magesium deficiency, 119, 124 Gren mnur, 32, 69, 70, 76 Mangnes; deficiency, 119; ferg- Genlhumg rdenig, 41 lizer,, 99 Manue: cow,, 73; farm,,, 46, 60, Hammockh sils, 14 101; green, 32, 69, 70, 76; Hardpan, 11, 12 poudtry, 47 Hibisu so ,,il, 55 Marl til, 3, 4 High analvsis felizehr,,, 49, 91, 92 Microhbe popult8o, 126, 133, 194 High grouind, 11 icroibial activity, 126, 127, 128 High calim ferilhier, 97 Microbial1 compition, 227, 126, High itrgei fertilizer,, 27, 97 131, 133 High phosphous feiizer,, 97 Minor elemtsi,, 26, 84, 98, 131; High potit um6, fertilizer, 97 defliinc, 121; tmobilty, 124; Holly sil, 55 sptays, 32 , Huu, 62, 73, 77 Mixed feriizerti, 95 Hydranigeai, hhue anid pink, 119 Misture: comtition, 83, 85, 96; rtetion, 07; list 88 Ifettion, of soil, 138 Molybdenumt, deiiencty, 1231 Infilhration, of raiti, 17 Miich, 7, 14,..72, 74 Insecticides itures, 94, 133 Muilch, 40, 99, 63, 76; hlack plas- Ion: chelatid 33, 43; deficiency, tic, 72; typest of, 69 97, 117, 123, 121,1.24; tulfa,, of, 112 Native grow,,th, 12 Irrdgai, 03- friquenctyy 489; :ga,, Natve soil fetility, 35 dien, 88; lawn',, 85; ove,,Aead, 87; Nimtode, 136, 137, 138, 139; seep, 67; vegetableigardt,.78; ciontrol, 139 waitir, 15 Nit,,ate,,ofisoda, 92 Nitrification,, 130 Late mturttity, 35 Nitrogen,, 37, 39, 48, 46, 129; 148 INDEX Flatwooids tils, 15 Lawn:tt oonditont of, 7; firtiltatio, Floridi tils, 8, 9, 89 48, 90; til, 40; spihnhling, 88 Fli;wer hed maiiagementt, 43 Liached soil, 12, 14, 21 Foliage, feiding, 30, 93 Leiihing, 36, 50 Friiendly microbhes,, 129 Lcaf-drip, 26 Fum,,igantt; appiation, 140, 142; Legumet, 128; bateriia, 130; inociu- liquid, 141; toid, 141 ltion, 129 Fum,,igaion,, of soil, 135, 136, 137, Lei, fi tan~ds, 3 Fun~giiides, 141, 142 93 cain 34; ite, rotaition,, 139; Limihng, 113, 114, 115, 116 sol3, 25; spray, 26; sprinkler,, Literatiteitoirii, 55 83; weeds, 7 Loamiy soils, 4,13 Giatt ilippingt, 75 Magneium, deficiencyy 119, 124 Green tmanturi, 32, 69, 70, 76 Manganeisi: defiiiency, 119; fert6- Greienthumb ;giardeing, 41 hizer,, 99 Mature:, coiw, 73; farm,, 46, 60, Hammocki sils, 14 101; grien, 32, 69, 70, 76; Hardpan,, 11, 12 poltry, 47 Hlibiscu il 55,9 Marltsoil, 3, 4 High analytis iiertilizer,, 49, 91, 92 Micrihbe populIation,, 126, 133, 134 High groun,,d, 11 Microbial aciity, 126, 127, 128 High ialcium,, fertOiie, 97 Microbial icompetitin, 127, 128, High nitrogien fettiliitr, 27, 97 131, 133 High phosphious fettihzer, 97 Minor, element, 26, 54, 98, 101; High potaium, fertitzer, 97 defiiency, 121; moiity, 124; HollOy soil, 58 spiayt, 32 Humui, 62, 73, 77 Mixed ferilizeir, 98 Hydirangeas, hi,,, and pi,,h, 118 Moisture:icompttpion, 83, 83, 86; retenti, 87;ttestt 88 InfOirai of8 rain,, 17 Mucih, 7, 14,:.72, 74 Inseiiddit m~ixtures, 94, 135 Mulih, 40, 89, 63, 76; hlach plas- Iron: ihelitid 33, 43; defOiiny, 6,c, 72; typet of, 69 97, 117, 123, 1216.124; tsulfate of, 112 - Native growth, 12 Irrgation,, 83- f,,tqueny 85; gar- Native, tiilitetility, 39 dien, 08; lawn,,, 85; ,,,,,tttad,: 87; Niematod,, 136, 137, 138, 139; tiep, 87; vegetable gardent, 78; control,1,135 wae,15 Nitrate,,ofLsoda, 92 Nitrification, 130 Lia,, mauty, 35 Nittogen,, 37, 39, 40, 46, 125; 148 Florida, toils, 8, 9, 89 Flowe, hid matnagiement, 40 Foliage feiding, 30, 50 Fum~igats:tt appiati, 140, 142; liquid, 141; toid, 141 Fum,,igaion,, of tsoil, 130, 136, 137, 109, 140 Fungicidit, 141, 142 Glardien; fertizer amots~t, 46; It- 3ain 4; ste rottionu, 139; tsoil, 5, 29; tpray, 26; sprinkler, 83; weeidt, 7 Gladioli fertilizaton, 58 Giatt clippings, 75 Green, muanture, 32, 69, 70, 76 Green thumb hgardeinhg, 41 Hammocki sils, 14 Hadpa, 11, 12 High analyiis tilizher,, 49, 91, 92 High ground, 11 High calchium fertize, 97 High nitroigin 3,rt0li,,,, 27, 97 High' phosiphiorus fertilier, 97 High potatsium,, fertilg,,zer, 97 Holly soil, 58 Humusi, 62, 78, 77 Hydiangiat, hilu, aid pi,,h, 119 Hydiatid ime,,, 11 Infestation, of tiil, 198 Infihtration, of rain,, 17 Inseiiidesi tre, 94, 139 Itron: ihelited 33, 43; defOiincy, 97, 117, 123, 121,1.124; sulfate, of, 112 Irrdgatio, 03- Lfequencty '88;.gut- d,,, 88; lawn,,, 85; ove,,,ead, 87; teep, 87; vegiitable arden, 78; water,, 15 Lite mtrity, 30 INDEX Lawn:, con,,didton of, 7; fiertihaio,, 48, 90; til, 40;pinkhling, 88 Leaihid soil, 12, 14, 21 Liaihing, 36, 50 Li,,f-drip, 26 Legume,,, 128; haitiia, 130; iou lai,,,, 129 Lime: elemit, 4, 9;mtel 93 mitic, 113, 116; ground, 116 Liming, 113, 114, 115, 116 Loamytsoil, 4,13 Magnitum, dficiiencyy 119, 124 Maganese: defiienc~y, 119; feti- hizer,, 99 Manure:,i co, 73; Litrm, 46, 60, 101; gieen, 32, 69, 70, 76; poultry, 47 Mal soil, 3, 4 Miirohe popuIaton,, 126, 133, 134 Miicrobial acivuity, 126, 127, 128 Micirobial comptian 127, 128, 131, 133 Minor, eltmtsil, 26, 84, 98, 131; deficienciy 121; mo,,bility, 124; sptays, 32 Mi,,d: Lirtliazer, 90 Moisture,, com,,peit6o, 83, 85, 86; retenti, 87; tet 88 Molyhdenut, defliieni, 121 - Muckh,7, 14,72, 74 Mulih, 40, 99, 63, 76; hlaih plas- 60, 72; types, ofL, 69 Native growith, 12 Natie sil Littility, 35 Nematd, 136, .137, 138, 139; Nitrate iof toda, 92- Nitrifiiadti, 130 Nitogen,, 37, 39, 40, 46, 121;  INDEX 149 cycle, 28; deficienc1y, 51, 117, Rod clay soil, 13, 14 120, 122, 124; fert810ze1, 97; R~oot knot, 136, 139 fixation, 128 Root otl,52 Ntrient: fOxation, 51; requiremet, 29 9a18 concentratio, 89, 87 Nutritional sprys, 38 S11,4-soaked soi;ls, 6 Sandy7soil, 3, 4, 15 Organifertili111er, 47, 57, 77 Saowdut, 63, 69, 75 Organik gardenoing, 98 Scrub oak soils, 14, 15 0rganic matter, 13, 37, 63, 67, 70, Secodar nutients, 100 72, 73 Shodo, 55 Orgic itogen, 32, 101 Shrubery fertilizationo, 35 Organic toil, 62 Side-dressing, 100 0ve watering, 84 Smaoll pods 17, 19 9,o88 growtoh, 33 P11m01 tre fertilzatio, 65 Soi1: acidity, 137, 109, 109, 110, Parots per million, 106 111; acidiyindicaors, 111; Peanuts:3 hullt, 72; pops, 31 adaptation, 11; aerati0o, 143; Peatsoils, 7, 14, 72 blowin3g, 18; classification, 9; Peaty muclk, 7, 68 color, 19, 103; components,25; Pecantree, 5, 59 conservatio of, 17, 20, 24; oon- Percolation, 51 tours8, 18; diseases, 137; drain- Pest6cides, 141 a33, 81; erosion, 19, 17, 18, 25, pH:; adjustment1, 112, 116; chanoge, 22, 22; fixation, 51; for roses, 132, 114, 316; effects of, 138, 12; improvement0, 82; infesttbo, 112, 113, 114; indicator, 113; 138; horizons, 3; management, meanin3 of, 103; 7re8erence, 6, 9, 25, 36, 40, 56; packin,03 107; tests,106 59; profile, 3; protection,, 19; re- Phostphate, 49 act1on, 30; 1118ntaminatio, 141; Phophorus, 36; 416ic3enc7, 119 samopliog, 134; steril0zaton, 137, Pine needles, 69, 76 139; survey, 13; survey1repor, Plant; burninhg of, 77; groo'h, 6, 13;1temperatu,;81;tst rports, 45; residues, 69, 74; wltlig, 85 139; test8ng, 103, 134, 105, 106, Plant food, 26 100, 109; testing hits, 106; test- Planter boo, 47 ingservice, 105; texture, 23, 42, Plating hole, 87 56; 3yp1, 5, 15 Potashb 97 Soluble 0ert611ze3, 49 Potassium, 84, 124, 128. Su soil33, 62, 114 Potted6 p1ants, 59 Su1bsoil, 4 Potting mixture, 67 Su1fate: of11ammonia, 92; of potash, Pounds3per1acr, 105 97 Puddling3, 19 Sulfur1, 385, 184; deficiency, 122, 1258 1 Rain8111; hea3ing, °17; infiltratio, Superphosphte, 82; ammoniated, 17 91 Rain gauge3, 83 Supoplemental fert601ze, 93 Rainter3, 78 9118113 3r111ff, 24 INDEX 149 cycle, 28; deficiency, 51, 117, Reod clay toil, 13, 14 120, 122, 124; 8er1111ze3, 97; Root knot, 196, 139 fixaton, 129 Root rot, 32 Nutrient: fixatio, 51; requirement3, 29 9113 10111nt3atio1, 85, 87 Nuttonal,1 spra7s, 38 San-soaked soils, 6 9134y 8003s, 3, 4, 15 Organic 8erti1izer, 47, 57, 77 91aw4u33, 63, 69, 75 Organik gardening, 98 Scrub oak ols, 14, 15 0131ni11ma11er, 13, 37, 63, 67, 70, Seonar nutrients0, 103 72, 79 Shade, 53 Organiconitogeno, 32, 181 Shrubbery 8113111zat1on, 35 Organic 1oi1, 62 Sid-dressin, 100 Over watering, 84 80ma11 ponds, 17, 19 9of8 g303116, 33 71113lm 81300erili600o, 60 Soil; acidity, 107, 100, 109, 110, Parts per million, 106 111; acidit7 indkcators, 111; Peanuts bulls, 72; pops, 31 a417313io1, 11; aeratio, 141; 7eat soi03, 7, 14, 72 blowing, 18; classificatio, 9; P113y1muck, 7, 68 color, 15, 108; components, 29; Pecantrees, 5, 59 conservt6on0o, 17, 20, 24;onl- Percoatio, 51 toor, 18; disa3e, 137; drain- Pesticides, 141 age, 01; erosio, 16, 17, 19, 20, pH: adjustmento, 112, 116; change, 21, 22; fiat0o, 31; for3303es, 112, 114, 116; ef0ects of, 108, 12; impovement, 52; in003313101, 112, 113, 114; i34111301, 113; 158; horizons, 3; managemn,113 meaninkg of, 108; pre81re0ce, 6, 9, 25, 36, 40, 56; 7ack60g, 107;,test, 106 59; 7rof61e 3; protection3, 19; re- Phosphate, 49 action, 30;, recomiaion, 141; Phosphorus, 96; deficiency, 119 31am71in3, 134; sterilization, 137, Pine3 nedles, 69, 76 139; survey, 13; surve report, 711311; burninog of, 77; growthl, 6, 13;tmpertur, 81;otest rports, 49; residues, 69, 74; wilting3, 83 105; testing, 103, 104, 109, 106, 71130 food, 26 100, 139; testing 103s, 106; 3133- Planter boo, 47 3ng s3vic, 103; texture, 29, 42, Platin6g hole, 87 96; type, 9, 15 PotafI, 97 Sol1ble 8116liz11, 49 Potass11um, 54, 124, 125 Sour soil, 62, 114 Potted 71113s, 55 Subsoil, 4 Potting mixture, 67 8u18a1e; of amoniat16, 92; of 70313h, Pounds3 per acre, 103 97 Puddling, 19 8111811, 35,; 184; d301133317, 122, 1285- 01infa11; botintg, '17; infiltraton, Soperphosphte, 32; ammoniate3d, 17 91 01ain 81u81, 83 Suppentlo01 8ert601z3, 93 Rainwatero, 78 8038111 r1118ff, 24 INDEX 149 c7c11, 28; deficiency, 51, 117, Rod olay 300l, 13, 14 120, 122, 124; fertilizeo, 97; Root klot, 196, 139 fixatio, 128 Root rot,352 Nutriet; fixation, 51; requireme,13 29 Salt3concentratio, 85,087 Ntitional 8731y3, 98 Sand-soaked soil3, 6 Sandy toilt, 3, 4, 15 Orgaio ferodhooo, 47, 57, 77 911,4183, 63, 65, 75 013113c gardeoing, 98 Scrub oaktoil, 14, 15 Ooganic 1,11113, 15, 37, 65, 67, 70, 9eco04107 0u00i1133, 100 72, 73 86141, 54 Orgaick 13310311, 32, 101 Shorhboory 8336831300io, 35 Organic toll, 62 Side-drotsing, 100 Overwatering, 84 Small ponds, 17, 19 Soft g30owth, 33 P11m13311 felo zaon~o, 60 Soil; 111407y, 107, 138, 109, 110, 71033710110000io, 006 111; 1134387 indicoro, 111; 731330ts; hullt, 72; 7073, 31 141731000n, 11; 1101000n, 140; Poat soils, 7, 14, 72 b1lowin, 18; 11136300001io, 9; Peaty muck, 7, 68 10103, 15, 108; componen0ts, 25; Pecanotroes, 5,959 conevtion60 of, 17, 20, 24;ono- Percolation, 51 lours, 10; 43831s33, 137; doaio- Petiidet, 141 130, 01; e3060o, 16, 17, 18, 20, pH; adjustmento, 112, 116; change, 21, 22; 6ixatio, 51; 80330131s, 112, 114, 116; 101138s of, 109, 12; imp7r0v1me1t3,52; inf3131001, 112, 113, 114; 114111301, 110; 138; horionot, 3; manageme,13 me110113 of, 108; 7018000011, 6, 9, 25, 36, 40, 56; 7110103, 107;tests, 106 59; profil, 3; protectiono, 19; oo- Phosphate, 49 10600n, 30; recontaminatio, 141; Phosphorus, 36; 416113007y, 119 11mp7003, 104; steodaion~, 107, Pine1need1es, 69, 76 130; survoy, 13,131 ouvy eort1, Plat; booning of, 77; gowth, 6, 13;3temperature, 81;ltetreports, 43; 3es64013, 69, 74; wi43in3, 89 133; 1tso3n, 103, 104, 139, 106, P1313 food, 26 100, 139; toting hits, 106; test- P111013 boo, 47 3138130311ic, 103; 31113130, 23, 42, P1ant4ng3 hle, 87 96; typo, 5, 15 Potash, 97 Soluble footilioor, 49 Potassium, 54, 124, 129. Su soil03, 62, 114 Potoed plaots, 35 Subsoil, 4- Potolog mixture,,67 811f133, of ammonia33, 92; of poth, Poundstperacre, 189 97 70443333, 19 Sulfur, 35,; 184; 436013117y, 122, 003338111; heaing, '17; infi13tratio, Suporpophate, 32; 11,1,013180, 17 91 Rain gauge, 83 Supplemental footiloze, 93 Rainterl, 78 80381011111ff, 24  150 INDEX 150 INDEX 150 INDEX Surface soil, 4 Virgin soil, 4, 29 Swt soil, 108, 110, 112, 114 Vitamsins, 48 Tillogo, 56 Woorm slopos 81 Tisn can pols, 59 Waltr boockish, 86, 87; capillarl', Tip urn 43 52 5888; requsirements, 79; soapy, 78; Tip-dross4, 23,80 staodiog, 81; sopploemontal, 87; Topsdooi, 27 3 0 toblo, 9, 11; waotoologged soil, Topsoilmns 4 0 52,1 Tooeo fertiosser, 54, ,8 evs Woods, 42; controol of, 141; iloors, Tsuokoy oaksoil, 14 Wet soil, 9 Winsdoorosion, 21, 23 Wiodbooeaks, 21 Vogetable: footiliootion, 39, 100; Wood ashos, 40, 94, 102 poodootioo goidos, 31, 41; tasto, Wood shasins, 49, 69. 53 Vogetotivo grosth, 27 Zinco deficiency, 120 Suofaoe soil, 4 Virgiosoil, 4,29 OSwoot soil, 188, 110, 112,114 Vitamoios, 48 Tillage, 56 Woaro slopos, 81 Tins can pot, 59 Wosor: boaokdsb, 86, 97; oapillary, Tip urn 43 52 5888; ooqusiooeoost, 79; soopy, 78; Tip-boooi43, 2, 38,10 stosnding, 81; supploesossal, 87; Topsdoig, 27 33t00 ablo, 9, 11; waotoologgod soil, Topsoilmns 3 4 10 32,81 Toooo oeloero32,, 01 Wooe, eds, 42; cosntrol of, 141; illers, 76 W5sl9 Tooky oo sod 14Wissderosion, 21, 23 Windboeoks, 20 Vogotoblo: fortilioation, 39, 100; Wood oshes, 48, 94, 102 poodootoon goides, 31, 41; lts, Wood shoviogs, 49, 69. 53 Vogottive growth, 27 Zinco deficiensoy, 120 Surfooe soil, 4 Virgin soil, 4,29 Sweeol soil, 188, 110, 112, 114 Vitassins, 48 Tillogo, 56 Warss slopos 81 Tin cn pot, 59Woseo: brockdsh, 86, 97; capillary, Tispo pos, 392,5 88; ooqssioosmoot, 79; soapy, 78; Tip-breosi43, 2, 38,10 stondinsg, 81; sopplemsossal, 87; Topsdoig, 27 33t88 ablo, 9, 11; waosoologged soil, Topsoilmns 5 4 0 52, 81 Toss, footilizo, 32, 39, 48; loosos, Wed,4;cnrl f 4;kles 76 Wo5ol Turkoy oak soil, 14 Wiodoosi, 212 Wiodboooks, 21 Vogotable: ferodliootions, 39, 180; Wood ashos, 48, 94, 182 poodootions guidos, 31, 41; tasto, Wood slsavinsgs, 49, 69 53 Vogottivo grosoh, 27 Zinco defliiency, 128  At/g 1.4 *,  GLOSSARY CONTINUED FROM FRONT ENDLEAVES MINOR OR TRACE ELEMENTS. Nutrients that plants need in small, trace, or minute amounts. Classified in this group are iron, manganese, boron, zinc, copper, molybdenum, and chlorine. MUCK. Well-decomposed organic soil, relatively high in mineral content, dark in color, accumulated under conditions of imperfect drainage. NITRIFICATION. The microbial process in the soil whereby ammonia is oxidized to nitrates. NITROGEN FIXATION. Specifically in soils, the assimilation of free nitro- gen from the soil air by soil organisms and the formation of nitrogen compounds that eventually become available to plants. The nitrogen- fixing organisms associated with legumes are called symbiotic; those not definitely associated with the higher plants are nonsymbiotic. ORGANIC NITROGEN. Any nitrogen that is chemically combined in or- ganic form, such as in plant and animal tissue, either alive or dead. This term may also apply to simple organic compounds. OUTCROPPING. When some older geological layer of mineral material protrudes out of the surface of the soil. Limestone outcroppings in Florida are common. OXIDATION. When occurring in the soil, it is a chemical change of an element or compound involving the addition of oxygen or its chemical equivalent. During the burning of fuel or the decomposition of plant remains, oxygen is added to carbon which, in turn, forms carbon di- oxide. In the rusting of iron or the change from reduced iron to the oxidized form, the addition of oxygen forms a red iron oxide. PARENT MATERIAL. The unconsolidated mass form which the soil pro- file develops. PARTS PER MILLION. One part in a million parts. For example, one milligram in one liter of solution. For mineral soils, one pound per acre, 3 in. deep, is equivalent to one part per million. A notation often used for indicating small amounts of materials. PEAT. Soils which are composed largely of partially decomposed plant materials and relatively little mineral matter. pH OP UM. The most favorable pH for plant growth, availability of plant food elements, and microbiological activity. pH, SOIL. A measure of the acidityoralkalinity of the soil. ApH b4w 7.0 indicates increasing acidity. Above pH 7 indicates increasing a- linity. Thus, a pH of 4 is very acid, and a pH of 6 only weakly acid. PLANT NUTRIENT. Any element taken in by a plant, essential to its growth, used for the synthesis of its food and tissue. POROsrry, SOIL. The degree to which the soil mass is permeated with pores or cavities. POTASH. The third figure (N-P-K) in the fertilizer analysis refers to potash but it is not what it is called. The letter "K" represents K0 (potassium oxide), but the element potassium is the important plant food constituent.  SAND, SILT, AND CLAY. In order of decreasing size of particles, the three important soil fractions are sand, silt, and clay. Sand particles may be coarse, medium, fine, and very fine. However, the sand particles are separate grains visible to the unaided eye. On the other hand, silt and clay particles are usually clumped together in small aggregates; in- dividual particles are visible only under a microscope. SOIL AGGREGATE. A single mass or cluster of soil consisting of many soil particles. SOIL PROFILE. A vertical section of the soil through all its horizons and extending into the parent material. (See Horizon, soil; Parent material) SOIL ORGANIC MATTER. This term includes both decomposed and un- decomposed plant and animal remains within and on the soil surface. Stable organic matter, that portion of the soil well mixed with the min- eral content, does not include the litter or partially-decomposed plant and animal remains near the surface. SOIL REACTION. Expressed in either pH value or in words this term applies to the degree of acidity or alkalinity of a soil mass. SOIL STRUCTURE. This pertains to the arrangement of the primary soil particles within the soil. SOIL TEXTURE. The relative proportions of the various size groups of individual soil particles in a mass of soil. Specifically, it refers to the proportions of sand, silt, and clay. SUBSOIL. This is the soil below the surface plow layer. This term is sometimes used to indicate what is known to the soil scientist as the B horizons of soil with distinct profiles. SYMBIOSIS. The living together in close association of two different or- ganisms, resulting in mutual benefits. A common example includes the association of Rhizobia with legumes; the resultant nitrogen fixation is sometimes called symbiotic nitrogen fixation. THRIFTY PLANTS. A common term denoting vigorous normal growth of any cultivated plant. TILTH. The physical condition of a soil in respect to its fitness for the growth of plants. TOP-DRESSING OR SIDE-DRESSING. An additional light application of fertilizer applied later in the growing season to supplement one or more . ithe initial basic fertilizers previously applied. TOPSOIL. A general term used in several different ways, the most com- mon definition applying to the surface plow layer of a soil. Topsoil is a synonym for surface soil. TOxIC. Any substance, either in the soil or added, that is harmful to the biological activity of plants and soil microbes, is said to be toxic. WATER TABLE. The upper limit of the part of the soil or underlying material wholly saturated with water. WEATHERING. The physical and chemical disintegration and decomposi- tion of rocks and minerals. 4 4A..r  0  .tww Phlwl V 'i Ti,,,,r ; ":'" ... dd "i wr '1 i'1i p Jl° fs,"-'.!'x Y w' - « fv. tlwp sM+M .M1 Y+2r ' G w YM a~ VY M w +a