Hi I LLINOI S UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN PRODUCTION NOTE University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign Library Brittle Books Project, 2012. COPYRIGHT NOTIFICATION In Public Domain. Published prior to 1923. This digital copy was made from the printed version held by the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. It was made in compliance with copyright law. Prepared for the Brittle Books Project, Main Library, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign by Northern Micrographics Brookhaven Bindery La Crosse, Wisconsin 2012 Reprilited from OARITI S April 1, 1905 The Wreck of the Home How Wearing Apparel is Fashioned in the Tenements ANNIE S. DANIEL The New York Infirmary for Women and Children New York The Charity Ordanization Society 105 East 22d Street i-~--E F ..r- Air shaft opening of one 6-story tenement. Four stories below the roof, the light and air which can settle: through this slit, supplies the tenement workers in the back room apartments. Tenement conditions in New York City are of national importance, because the products of tenement labor are sold in every State and Territory in the Union. A guarantee of safety is found in one line of goods, women and children's.white wear, which bear the label of the National Consumers' League. THIS CLEAuL LAB cosunAr UCENSE E NO. 4 I- frZED A Certifies that the goods which carry it have been made in clean and safe factories under good conditions, and that the manufacturers who use the label employ no children and give out no work to be made up outside the factories. Sixty factories are now using the label on women's white underwear, corsets, waists,: stocking suspenders, dressing jackets, children's wash dresses, sheets, and pillow eases. Every person buying goods of this character should ask that they bear the label. The Consumers' League of the City of New York 105 East Twenty-Second Street, New York The Wreck of the Home HOW WEARING APPAREL IS FASHIONED IN THE TENEYENTS Annie S. Daniel The New York Infirmary for Women and Children Much has been accomplished by the efforts to better the conditions of the working people in New York, but to-day there are conditions existing over on the East Side in tenement-houses, which only those who see daily can believe possible in a civilized community. The most hideous and uncontestable type of sweating is done in what should be the homes of working people. From these homes last year, 120 families applied for the services, at the home, of a physician from the New York Infirmary for Women and Children. These "homes" of working men and women consist of from two to four rooms. In one room that which opens on the street or yard, is carried on all the domestic life. This room serves for parlor, dining-room, and kitchen; and in this room in addition is carried on the manufacturing. It is quite obvious that the word home was never intended to apply to such an apartment; neither does it give a description of an ideal place in which manufacturing should be done. The new law relating to manufacturing in tenement-houses, provides that thirtythree distinct industries may be carried on in the living rooms of the workersmanufacturing all of which requires hand work or simple machinery. Every garment worn by a woman is found being manufactured in tenement rooms. The coarsest home-wrappers to the daintiest lace gown for a fine evening function are manufactured in these rooms. Corsets and shoes are the most uncommon. The adornments of woman's dress, the flowers and feathers for her hats, the hats themselves-these I have seen being made in the presence of small-pox, on the lounge with the patient. In this case the hats belonged to a Broadway firm. All clothing worn by infants and young children -dainty little dresses-I have seen on mSubstance of an address delivered before the annual meeting of the New York City Consumers' League. the same bed with chiidrea ick of contagious diseases and into these little garments is sewed some of the contagion. Every garment worn by men is found being manufactured in rooms whose legitimate use is for living purposes. Men's hats are less frequently found, but one wonders if there are men enough in the world to wear all the trousers that All are finished in tenement rooms. clothing when not beiig sewed upon is thrown on the bed or under it, on the floor or more often used as a couch f'or a child. In addition to wearing apparel, boxes, cigars, pocketbooks, jewelry, clocks. watches, wigs, fur garments, paper bags-anything the manufacturing, altering, repairing or finishing of which requires hand labor or simple machinery, is found in these rooms. Often one finds the women manufacturing, the man sorting fruit to be sold on the street. The workers, poor, helpless, ignorant foreigners, work on in dirt, often in filth unspeakable, in the presence of all contagious and other diseases, and in apartIments in which the sun enters only at noon or never at all. The tenement-house department states that there are "thousands" of apartments in which all rooms open on an air-shaft; in such an apartment I attended a woman ill with tuberDuring the. culosis, finishing trousers. summer, and then only for about two hours, daylight (not sunlight) came in. This daylight lasted two months and for this place of. three air-shaft rooms, ten dollars per month was paid. Three years of life in this apartment killed the woman. The finishers are made up of the old and the young, the sick and the well. As soon as a little child can be of the least possible help, it must add to the family income by taking a share in the family toil. A child 3 years old can straighten out tobacco leaves or stick the rims which form 'the stamens of artificial flowers The Wreck of the Home through the petals. He can put the covers on paper bhxes at four years. He can do §om2:of .he p~atiug of paper boxes, alt ia:s 'a' rule th iirequires a child of 6 'to 8r yea s. :r - from 4 to 6 years be can s&olrkbuttons and pull basting t .rads. A. git"Oiriom 8 to 12 can finish trouwr s =aSja 'as her mother. After 1i. she .ki6: 2, if of good size, she can earn more 'money in a factory. The boys do practically the same work as the girls, except that they leave the home work earlier,' and enter street work, as peddlers, bootblacks, and newsboys. I have seen but two children under 3 years of age working in tenements, one a boy 21/2 years old who assisted the mother and 4 other-children under 12 years in making artificial flowers. The other, an extraordinary case of a child of 11/2 years, who assisted at a kind of passementerie. The sick as long as they can hold their heads up, must work to pay for the cost of their living. As soon as they are convalescent they must begin again. The other day a girl of 8 years was dismissed from the. diphtheria hospital after a severe- attack of the disease. Almost immediately she was working at women's collars, although scarcely able to walk across the room alone. The greatest evils of this particular form of sweating found in tenements can be grouped as follows: A child from 3 to 10 or 12 years adds: by its labor from 50 cents to $1.50 per week to The hours of the the family inicome. child are as long as its strength endures or the work remains. A child 3 years old can work continuously from 1/2 to 2 hours at a time; a child 10 years old can work 12 hours. Obviously under such conditions the child is deprived of the two greatest, rights, which the parents and the state are bound to give each child, health and" an education. The particular dangers to the child's health are such'as can be induced by the confinement in the house in an atmosphere always foul. The bad light under which the child works causes a continual eye-strain, from the effects of which the child will suffer all its life. The brain of the child under 8 years of age is not Child Labor developed sufficiently to bear fixed attention. Hence it must be continually forced to fix its attention to the work and in doing this an irreparable damage is done to the developing brain. A child forced to earn its bread has neither the time nor the opportunity to obtain an education. It is absolutely impossible Hours. to know the number of hours per week which one person may devote to the work. In the busy season a woman will frequently not have more than five hours rest in the twenty-four. Children over 8 years of age who attend school begin work immediately after school hours, and frequently work until late at night, and on Saturdays and Sundays. The women usually begin about 5 A. M., taking a cup of coffee, working steadily without stopping from 4 to 6 hours. When the work must be. finished at a fixed time, they usually work until midnight or until 1 or 2 A. Ii.; nothing will be al- lowed to interfere with it. I frequently make a medical visit during which the work is not stopped one minute. Recently I told a woman to stop her work on paper boxes long enough to get me a spoon and towel. She said that it was absolutely impossible to stop a minute. Unless the work was at the factory at a certain hour, she could not get the money needed to pay the month's rent, then over-due. The hours are regulated solely by the amount of work on hand or by the physical strength of the workers; Sundays and holidays, in sickness and health, work they must. The a amount of pay re- ceived varies with the kind of work, from 11/2 cents an hour to 10 cents very rarely more. The little children, according to their ages. earn from 50 cents to $2.00 per week. A girl of 10 to 12 years can earn as much as a woman at certain kinds of work, such. as finishing men's clothing, and artificial flowers, or hemming by machine dish towels for a Broadway firm-a recent example. In other occupations, such as sewing on buttons, pulling basting threads or clipping threads between seams, they simply save time for the women by assisting. In no case in over 515 families was any "" -- .-- ~--------------- q O% b m "F R7 U m H it q a 0 ca - s 6 ;I( Exterior of tenement house, where garment making was being carried on. from the photographer to continue their work. woman working other than from dire necessity. The average weekly income from the man's work was $3.81. The ,average rent (the one item in ,the living expenses which must " be paid and promptly) was $8.99 per month. The average family to be supported was of 41/ persons. As it requires more than two weeks' wages to .pay one month's rent, it is very evident that the women must work or'the family go hungry. Of these 515 families, 161 were .supported entirely by men; 30 by men assisted by persons under 18 years; the remaining 324 families in part or entirely by women. In 150 of these families the women were engaged in some kind of manufacturing in the living rooms. The work continued during the entire illness for which the family was attended. In the 174 families remaining, the women either .worked in the factories, at home at laundry work, or added to the income by taking lodgers or boarders. The women of 17 families, who worked in a factory, also brought home work to do at nightmost often, artificial flowers. As to the reasons given for the necessity of the The children were called away women working--45 were widows; with 14, the husband was sick; 15 of the women were deserted; with 7, the man. drank. The remainder excused the condition by either slack work or insufficient income of the man. The actual amount of money which the women earned averaged $1.04 per week. The combined income of the men and women averaged $4.85. The additional sources of income came from the work of persons under 18 years and from what could be received from boarders and lodgers. This made the average income from all sources for over 515 families $5.69. The fact that -despite the Housing. work of the entire family the income is still too small for living purposes, gives rise .to greater evil of overcrowding. The ayerage number of persons in the apartments, due largely to this cause, was 6.4 persons. The average number of rooms occupied by such groups was 2.6. In order to make the income reach the out-go, boarders, lodgers, two and three families huddle together, until not even the ghost of decency remains. j~. Basement of tenement house on block known as "Lung Block," because of prevalence of tuberculosis. No daylight--gas burning at midday. A woman in the last stages of tuberculosis working on fancy collars. S Tally et. Why does this exist? What are the advantages derived? By the workers-The possibility of utilizing every finger old enough; and unlimited hours. By the manufacturers-Less factory space, hence less rent, less light, less fuel and a decidedly smaller pay-roll. No contract is made with the workers. When the work is returned, such pay is given ,as the manufacturers choose to give. By the consumers-An article costs a little less. And what are the dangers? To the workers-Chiefly the loss of health, physically, morally; the loss of a home. Absolutely no home life is possible in a tenement workroom. To the manufacturers-The possibility of giving out work to people who may be caught, the work confiscated and the manufacturers fined. That this is a danger to which the manufacturer pays little attention is shown by the fact of the very few convictions or confiscations which the labor department is able to report. To the consumer-The real danger of r_ r being infected by disease germs. Among the 150 families manufacturing in the living rooms 66 continued at work during the entire course of the contagious disease for which we were attending the famiily We have laws which if enobliterate would forced Its Enforcement. every sweat-shop great and small in New York. To enforce these laws would require an army of inspectors working day and night. In some sections of the city every tenementhouse would require two inspectors continually, one at the street door entrances, the other on the roof; and more, fire-escapes are used as entrances and exits. We have repeatedly known of the inspector visiting the family (during the enforcement of the old law) and finding everything all right. The same day (in one case within half an hour), the illegal manufacturing was resumed. Frequently the visit of the inspector is reported upon his entrance to the block, and the work is hidden until after the inspection has been made. In cases of contagious disease, the door is usually kept locked; the time The Law and 3 0112 098983528 The Wreck of the Home consumed in opening it permits the hiding personal knowledge was being done again of the work. in the evening in inside bedrooms, with We have a new law recently in effect doors locked. Fresh work I saw carried which provides that the tenement-house in and finished in about the same way that must be licensed for home-work and not the people would have made counterfeit the apartment. After an inspection by the money. The next day and since, it has labor inspector and consultations by the been done openly. Outlooks are posted in health department, if everything is found dilferent parts of the house who will give in good order, the owner is given a license. the alarm, in their own language, and This shall be (the law does not say must work will again be hidden should another be) posted in the public hall on the en- inspection be made. Any person seeing trance floor of the building and the build- such a spectacle can but wonder what manings be inspected every six months at ner of United States citizens these people least. I have a list of tenements licensed thus treated are going to make, trying to by the Labor Bureau in my neighborhood. make a living, and forced by this law to I have been in 38 of these houses. The make it illegally. license was posted in 12. Theoretically, placing the responsibility One of the houses on the list, in which upon the manufacturer and the landlord, no license was posted is an apartment relieving entirely the worker, would seem house which rents from $900 to $1,200 both just and easily enforced. It is too per year. Each apartment is leased by soon after the enactment of the new law the year, as I was told by the elevator boy. (October 1, 1904) to draw conclusions. In one of these licensed houses I attended The first effect of the change was upon the a case of measles in an apartment occu- worker in the advance of the rent from pied by two families. Notice of the con- fifty cents to a dollar per month. I see tagious disease was posted on the door. absolutely no change in conditions. In Within, two women were finishing trousers January we attended a child ill with and one day I found the sick child lying measles. The health board posted the on a bundle of the trousers. This is very usual notice on the door. During the common. three weeks of the illness, which included A clause of the law forbids the employ- pneumonia, the manufacturer sent three ment of any but members of the familytimes each week neckties to be made by the a clause which not only is not obeyed, but woman and carried away those already the work is carried to other apartments finished. The landlord called every week and even to other houses. The other day for the rent, as the woman was behind in two women from another street brought her payments. But no interruption in the trousers to finish at the bedside of my pa- work occurred, and both landlord and tient, sick with tuberculosis; they had sim- manufacturer knew that they were disply come to make a social call and brought obeying the law. their work with them. It frequently ocIs there any other remedy ? I believe that curs that a woman takes more work than a law absolutely forbidding any manushe can finish. She then distributes it to facturer to have any part of his work done neighbors or friends; or she takes a large in a tenement-house could be enforced. quantity of work and obtains the services If women must add to the income of of girls, whom she teaches the trade, the family they should do it in buildings usually neckties or artificial flowers. The built for this purpose; children at least girls receive no pay for this work. under eight years of age would not be emThe old law placed the responsibility of ployed; men and women in the last stages manufacturing on the worker and the of tuberculosis could not work because of manufacturers. The new law takes the inability to go to a factory. The children, responsibility off the worker and puts it the future Americans, would stand a better on the landlord. On January 9, accord- chance of becoming useful citizens; and ing to the daily papers, a raid was made the consumer possessed of much welth or by twenty-two inspectors in Elizabeth little, could know that his garments were street. The people were duly frightened, not stained with the blood of helpless much of the work was hidden, and to my women and little children. This book is a preservation facsimile produced for the University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign. It is made in compliance with copyright law and produced on acid-free archival 60# book weight paper which meets the requirements of ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992 (permanence of paper). Preservation facsimile printing and binding by Northern Micrographics Brookhaven Bindery La Crosse, Wisconsin 2012