& EERE ai tee ee ib ctitean Ses ae fe ed De / 4 es = erie nig ae et HEE SSR STEN EEE SER GE PET EET 6 OPE STEP EE Se ee SAN i raed SRR Ure ee Cars a SOE OE PS ELLIE EF IE IEE TEE LON A IIS NN AE ED OES mm 3 Rs Tae e : ae Pe can on eae = és Boa La e x : ( ae See ee ‘ la - See pees ~ 3 [ss Satbap emote shin obras ocaegt rapa wipe sere WarNea ace: eo y $ Erymiey 412 ) Trai de 41% i 97 Harningham, mn a 82 Meophany 379 itone Ca. 383 aN thoreham 384 Snodland 13 © Leybourn Ca. 2 Watering burly 52 Tose 54 Spon Ones Mereworth Ca Soa DEF Ca ) 0 : Jalen Suto 7 Edenbridge 42 5 Penshur: : Hever Cas. 425 ° ’ tou unbrook: 449 Bayham Abbey; ; ; 444 *, a ‘ J @NLELES ; Cs v { { . ’ ( INSTITUTION \. a) . By =. LA SGO WY im “, a Ar 8 enn INDEX MAP TO ACCOMPANY BLACK'S GUIDE TO LWoreLight Note. The menbers after the names refer to the page in ‘ Guide Book where the description is to be found . ‘ial ,cerDess 463 wenn Railways, ——~ Raads. ey, Surry 300 Selling 358° ws BROANTERBURY 307 Ashe 27449 s Shottenden Hill y 7 2, ? 4 . antwich 268 358 yn yy ~oegrory f ontham1b§ 3 Chitham 343 252 Charing 155 ° LastwellPa. urrenclen 162 EB ee a artlitte well EB i 1 » * ut a Fad etaiee = oan Pover 208 ih kestone 191 u Ndgate 194: © Dungeness 204 Scale 10 Miles to an iich +--+ a +, On ae Se SS 6 Iau § Oo J. Bartholomew, Edin oe | Founded 1863 Opened =a: xe eae (3 L/¢ O ShetlO XB 93 Giumour &Dean Lith Glaséaw. | 1s70 «35D C001 : _ BLACK’S GUIDE TO KENT.$10TH ED.$EDINBURG F cee! we ae | eee TT Th nal TT A | Hl il IU bint UW ly He a ryt HOP PICKING—KENT. BLACK’S GUIDE TO KENT TENTH EDITION oer wriaee mT oF i : in >. use ig i | ROCHESTER CASTLE EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 1886 The Editor will be glad to receive any notes or corrections front Tourists using this Guide-book. Communications to be addressed to the Publishers. INTRODUCTION. — + — > = STATISTICAL AND GENERAL INFORMATION. 4s ENT forms the extreme south-eastern angle of England, where our country approaches nearest to the mainland of Europe. It extends from east to west (North Foreland to London), 64 miles ; from north to south (North Foreland to Dungeness), 38 miles ; from London to the Sussex border, 24 miles ; from the Surrey border to Dungeness, 43 miles. It is the tenth English county in point of size, and occupies 1627 statute square miles, or 1,041,479 acres. Nature has marked it out into three great divisions, which may be named the Downs, the Low Country, and the Valley of the Medway. The former comprises the great range of chalk-hills which form the “ backbone of Kent ;” the second, the woody Weald, and the rich cattle-pasturages of Tourney Marsh, and the marshes along the estuary of the Medway and the Swale ; and the third, the fertile garden- ground, orchards, and hop-fields, which stretch from Maid- stone to Tunbridge. No English county offers a greater variety of attractive scenery ; hill and dale, meadow and blossoming orchard-ground combining in a succession of pic- turesque landscapes. We cannot, therefore, dispute the truth of Drayton’s vigorous panegyric -— a iv INTRODUCTION. “ O famous Kent ! What county hath this isle that can compare with thee ? Which hast within thyself as much as thou canst wish ; Thy conies, venison, fruits, thy sorts of fowl and fish : As what with strength comports, thy hay, thy corn, thy wood : Nor anything doth want that anywhere is good.” Polyolbion, Song xviii. The principal hop-gardens are situated near Maidstone, between Faversham and Canterbury, and between Godstone and Ashford; they cover about 30,000 acres. The hop was first cultivated in England toward the beginning of the 15th century. The cherry-orchards are found in the north, and cluster along the route of the London, Chatham, and Dover Rail- way in great profusion. This popular fruit was probably indigenous to England, but fresh grafts and choice varieties were introduced into Kent by Richard Hareys, fruiterer to Henry VIII., who planted about 100 acres at Tynham. The more important Gentlemen’s Seats in Kent are :— Chevening Park (Earl Stanhope), Lees Court (Lord Londes), Cobham Hall (Earl of Darnley), Knole Place (Earl Delawarr), Penshurst (Lord De Lsle), Charlton House (Sir Thomas Wilson, Bart.), Leeds Castle (©. W. Martin, Esq.), The Mote (Earl of Romney), Lullingstone Castle (Sir P. Hart Dyke, Bart.), and Eastwell Park (Earl of Winchelsea). Kent is divided into 5 lathes :—Sutton-at-Hone, Ayles- ford, Scray, St. Augustine, and Shepway ; and subdivided into 61 hundreds, besides the peculiar liberties of its 4 Cinque Ports (Dover, Deal, Sandwich, and Winchelsea). It contains 2 cities (Canterbury and Rochester), and 18 market- towns,.with a population of 847,507. The Assize Town is Maidstone. There are 424 parishes, which are grouped into 27 poor-law unions. The county is mostly in the diocese of Canterbury, but also in those of INTRODUCTION. Vv Rochester and London. For judicial purposes it is included in the Home Circuit, except so much of it as lies within 10 miles of St. Paul's Cathedral, and accordingly under the jurisdiction of the Central Criminal Court. There are 19 county courts. The Kentish rivers are: the Medway, Stour, Darent. Cray, and Beult. Railways open, nearly 400 miles. PRINCIPAL RAILWAY STATIONS. S.E.... South-Eastern Railway [Termini, Cannon Street and Charing Cross ; North Kent (N.K.) Branch, London Bridge]. | L.C.D. London, Chatham, and Dover Railway [Termini, Victoria, Pimlico ; and Ludgate Hill]. BATHS. Broadstairs...... Collins, Albion Street ; Brine. (6 SE eee Brest, Marine Parade; March, Marine Parade. Gravesend ...... Broadbridge, Milton Baths; Albion ; Luke’s Clifton Baths. Herne Bay ...... Gipson, Marine Baths ; Ottaway, Parade; and Homersham, East Cliff. Margate .... .... Austin, High Street ; Foat, Lower Marine Parade; Hayward, Fort Crescent ; Perry, Belle Vue; Philpott, High Street ; Pittman, New Town Baths ; Pribble, High Street. Ramsgate ...... Royal Baths, West Cliff; Royal Victoria Baths, Sands; Royal Clarence, Bath Place; Ratcliff’s, ‘Taylor's, Barling’r Foat’s, and Dyson’s. vi INTRODUCTION. Sandgate ...... Taylor, High Street. Sheerness ..+4.. Moore, Marine Town. Tunbridge Wells Oliver, Mount Pleasant Terrace. RACES AND RACECOURSES. Canterbury : In April, and second half of July. Dover: In August. Folkestone: In March. Wye: In second half of May. FISHING STATIONS. Medway : Above Rochester Bridge, for carp, chub, dace, gud- geon, perch, pike, roach, and trout. Cray: For trout. Darent : For pike, perch, and trout. Ravensbourne: Near Bromley, for trout; and below Brom- ley, for jack, perch, roach, ete. Stour and Rother: For trout. The Antiquities of Kent are fully indicated and de- scribed in the body of this volume. We have adopted the usual arrangement of architectural periods and styles—viz. SQ201R,.<..te>. Hos. Anterior to 1066. NOTING: 1- see ee From 1066 to 1150. Transition Norman 1150 to 1250. Early English...... From 1250 to 1350. Debrated ~..is.. 06 From 1350 to 1480. Perpendicular ...... From 1480 to 1640. ~ The Archeological Society of Kent (founded in 1858), issues its Transactions, at intervals, under the title of A rch@o- logia Cantiana. ABBEY Woop Adisham Aldington . Alkham All-hallows Allington Appledore . Ash . Ashford Aspringe Aylesford BADLESMERE Barfriston Barham Barming Battle Hall Bayham Abbey Beckenham Beckley Bedgebury Park . Bekesbourne Belvidere Bethersden . Betshanger . Bidborough . Bifrons (instituTioN | Slascow/ CONTENTS IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER. ia TRS (For Index, see end of Book.) PAGE 64 . 264 . 184 Billingsgate Bilsington . Birchington Bishopsbourne Blackheath . Blackwall Blean Bobbing Borden Boreshill . Boughton- Le-Blean Boughton Malherbe Boxley Abbey Brabourne . Bradsole Abbey Brastead Bredgar Bredhurst Brenchley Brenzett . Brickwall Park Bridge Broadstairs . Bromley Brompton Brook - . Brookland - . Buckland Burham Burmarsh CANTERBURY Capel-Le-Ferne Chalk Challock Charing Charlton Chartham Chart Magna Chart Sutton Chatham Chelsfield Chelston Cheriton Chevening . Chiddingstone Chilham . Chillenden . Chiselhurst . Chislet Cliffe . ; Cobham Hall Coldred ; Colliers’ Hill Cosenton Cowling Cranbrook . Crundal Cudham Cuxton DARTFORD Daundelion . Davington .; Deal . CONTENTS. Denton Deptford Detling Dimchuirch . Doddington Dover Down Dungeness . Dunkirk EASTBRIDGE Eastchurch . East Farleigh East Guildford East Langdon Eastry East Sutton Eastwell Ebbe’s Fleet Ebony : Edenbridge . Ellington Elmley Elmsted Elmstone Eltham Eridge Erith Ewell Eynsford Hythorne FAIRFIELD Farleigh Farnborough Farningham Faversham . Fawkham Folkestone . Foot’s Cray . Fordwich Fredville House . Friary (Aylesford) Frindsbury . Frinstead Frittenden . Frognal Gav's HILL. Gillingham . Godington . Godmersham Goodneston Goudhurst . Grange, The Graveney Gravesend . Great Mongeham . Greenhithe . Greenwich . Guston HACKINGTON Hadlow Halling Halstead Harbledown Hardres Harrietsham Hartley Hartlip Harty ; Hastingleigh Hawkhurst . Hawkwell . Hayes OONTENTS, PAGE wrgt Headcorn Heppington -| Herne Bay . Herne Hill . Hever Higham High Elms. High Halden High Halstow Holborough Hollingbourne Hoo Horsemonden Horton : Horton Kirby Hothfield Hougham Hurst Hyde Hill . Hythe IcKHAM Ide Hill Iden . Ifield . ; Isle of Thanet KEMSING Kennington Keston , Kingsgate Kingsnorth . Kingstone . Kit’s Coty Housd! Knockholt . Knole Knowlton LANGLEY e . Leeds Lenham Lesnes Abbey Lewisham Linton A Littlebourne Little Chart Little Mongeham Loose : Luddenham Lullingstone Lydd . Lydden Lyminge Lymne MAIDSTONE . Margate Meopham Mereworth . Mersham Milton Minster Molash Monkton Mote, The . New Cross. Newington . New Romney Nonington . Northam Northbourne North Crag. ORPINGTON . Osengall Down Otford CONTENTS. Otham Otterden PATRIXBOURNE Penshurst Place . Petham Playden Pluckley . Plumstead . Postling QUEENBOROUGH RaINHAM Ramsgate Reculver . - Redleaf Ringwould . Ripple River Rochester Romney Marsh Rosherville . Rotherhithe Ruckinge Rye St. LAWRENCE . St. Radigund’s Abbey St. Stephens Saltwood Sandgate Sandhurst . Sandling Park Sandown Castle . Sandwich Selling Sellinge ~ Sevenoaks Sheerness Sheldwick . Shooter’s Hill Shoreham Shorncliffe . Shorne Shottenden Hill Sissinghurst Sittingbourne Smarden Smeeth Snargate Snodland Somerhill . Southborough Southfleet Stockbury . Stodmarsh . Stone. Stroud Sturry Sundridge . Surrenden-Dering Sutton ; Swinefield . TENHAM Tenterden CONTENTS. PAGE , 894 . 463 . 857 27 384 194 ce . 308 . 449 . 367 eA161 sal83 Sl . 113 . 436 . 410 Thamington Thornham Throwley Tilbury Fort Tong Tovil . Tunbridge Wells Tunstall UPCHURCH . ‘W ALDERSHARE Walmer West Cliffe . Westenhanger Westerham . West Farleigh West Peckham Whitstable . Wilderness Park . Willesborough Wilmington Wingham Wittersham Woodnesborough Woolwich Wootton Wouldham . Wye. OONTENTS IN ORDER OF ROUTES. ——- KENT. Pacu From London to Gravesend. By RIvEr. Greenwich—W ooLwica—Erith—Greenhithe—Northfleet-—GraVESEND 1-47 é@ Excursion—To Cobham Park : ‘ - : 47-56 From London to Gravesend. By Ratt. New Cross—Lewisham—Blackheath—Charlton—Woolwich Dockyard and Arsenal—Abbey Wood—Erith—Dartford—Greenhithe—Northficet- GRAVESEND : A “ 2 * < 56-68 #G Excursion—Eltham and Charlton House > . . 68-75 From Gravesend to Maidstone. Higham—Stroud—Chalk—Shorne—RocnresrER—Chatham—Gillingham— Wouldham—Halling—Cuxton—Snodland—Aylesford—MaIps10NnE 76-127 fax Excursion—A Walk round Maidstone (Hast Farleigh—Allington— Boxley—The Mote) F : : . ‘ 127-145 From Maidstone via Ashford to Folkestone. Langley—Boughton Monchelsea—Chart Sutton—Headcorn—Smarden— AsHrorp—Smeetham—Hythe—Newington— FoLKESTONE F 145-206 Z1V - CONTENTS. Branch Route—Hast Sutton to Charing ., 3 = 4 Do. From Ashford, via Tenterden, to Rye ; m1 Do. From Ashford, by rail, to Rye * Do. From Folkestone, along the Coast, to Rye . From Folkestone to Ramsgate. Paacy 150-160 169-178 178-182 194-20€ DovER—Walmer—DeEat—Sandown Castle—Sandwich-~Minster—RAMsGATE 206-297 Branch Route—From Dover to Canterbury Do. From Deal to Canterbury 5 Do. From Sandwich to Canterbury : The Isle of Thanet—Maraatr, Birchington, St. Peter’s, ees: ota From Ramsgate to Rochester. 230-246 259-266 274-276 285-297 Preston—Chislet—Hoath—Stodmarsh—Sturry—Hackington—CanTERBURY— Harbledown—Boughton—Milton—$ittingbourne—Rainham Branch Route—From Sturry to Herne Bay and Whitstable Do. From Canterbury to Ashford ‘ . Do, From Faversham to Ashford Do, From Faversham, via Lenham, to Maldstone Do. From Milton to Maidstone ; . ; Do. From Chatham to Cliffe ai From Rochester to Bromley. Nutsted—Meopham—Farningham—Horton-Kirkby—Lullingstone—Otford —Seal—Szrven Oaks—Knowle—The Crays—Beckenham—BRoMLEY Branch Route—From Horton-Kirkby to Tunbridge fia7 Excursion—To Penshurst Place - ° . From Bromley, via Edenbridge, to Tunbridge. Hayes—Keston—Farnborough—Knockholt—Chevening—Brastead—Wes- terham—Edenbridge—Penshurst—TUNBRIDGE WELLS Branch Route—From Tunbridge to Rochester : Do. From Tunbridge to Tunbridge Wells < A From Tunbridge to Rye. Pembury—Brenchley—Horsemonden—Goudhurst—Cranbrooke—-Hawk- ° hurst—Sandhurst—Newenden—Peasmarsh—Rye 2 far Excursion—A Day in Ancient England (Richborough and Reculver) Do Sheerness and the Isle of Sheppey : . 298-378 801-305 340-348 357-360 360-362 369-370 374-378 378-416 382-408 385-392 417-446 434-436 436-446 446-452 452-460 460-406 GREENWICH HOSPITAL, GUIDE TO KENT. LONDON to GREENWICH, WOOLWICH, & GRAVESEND By STEAMER. (Greenwich, 5 m. ; Woolwich, 4 m.; Erith, 7; m.; Greenhithe, 43 m, ; North- fleet, 4. m; Gravesend, 1 m.] WHEN we have been “long in city pent,’ it is very pleasant and very healthful, both for mind and body, to set forth upon a leisurely ramble through leafy lanes, by the “ margent of rushy streams,” and across broad grassy meadows, exploring each cool covert and shady copse, and eagerly drinking in the summer B 2 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. wind, and the music of many birds. The Latin poet told his countrymen that it was not always wise to bend the bow, nec semper Apollo tendit arcum; and our English doggerel pithily tells us that “all work and no play makes Jack a dull boy.” The nerves are weakened, the fancy is dulled, the heart grows weary, and the soul no longer climbs to “ the heaven of invention.” Rest is needed for body and intellect, for hand and brain ; and not only rest, but relaxation ; that is, a change of scene and occupation— something new before the eyes, something fresh before the mind. And for pleasurable scenes, rich in natural beauty and his- torical associations, we need not adventure beyond the limits of the three seas. Happily, a wise spirit of patriotism now prevails among Englishmen, who are beginning to understand that Eng- land has her “ hallowed ground,” her “sunny spots of greenery,” her “ chiefless castles breathing stern farewells,” her legends, and traditions, and memories ; and that for beauty and tender interest it is not necessary to voyage “up the Rhine,” or scamper over the Continent. “ It is shameful,” wrote Linneeus, “for a man to dwell in, and yet be ignorant of his native land.” And such a land as ours ! “‘Great men have been among us; hands that penn’d, And tongues that utter’d wisdom.”—W oRDSWORTH. And the places associated with their fame invite us, like so many holy shrines, to devout and earnest pilgrimage. Such a land as ours !—that boasts of gleaming meadow and shadowy copse ; of rippling rivulet and leafy bower; of winding lanes through banks all rich in bloom ; of green fresh hedges fencing off the golden corn; of gray and ivy-mantled towers, which speak, _ trumpet-tongued, of a stirring and glorious past; of old quiet churches, hidden away in old-world villages ; of brave manorial mansions, set daintily at the head of noble lawns. We shall now endeavour to point out what the tourist ought to know of the famous historic sites, antique manor-houses, se- questered villages, and busy towns of Kent. To GRAVESEND BY RIVER. Presuming that to the tourist time is not of such importance as to render necessary the facilities afforded by the rail, we shall TILI-BOATS, 3 speed on our first tour through glorious Kent, in a river-steamer, selecting as our starting point the pier adjoining London Bridge. Excellent substitutes—these rapid and agreeable vessels !—for the tilt-boats which, two hundred years ago, carried passengers from London to Gravesend at the moderate charge of twopence, occupying half a day in the voyage. These tilt-boats were the successors of the ancient Gravesend barges, and drove them out of the field about 1640, through their superior swiftness and facilities of accommodation. They maintained their position until 1834, when the steam-boats monopolized the patronage of the public. The latter, in their turn, have suffered from “ the - progress of the age,” the railroads on either bank of the river having dealt their prosperity a heavy blow. Curious but popular old conveyances were the said heavy tilt-boats, as we may conclude from an account of an expedition andertaken by Hogarth and his friends, and recorded by Mr. Forrest, who was one of the party, the others being Thorn- hill (Sir James), Tothall, Scott, and the great satirist himself. Mx. Forrest’s Hudibrastics begin,— “Twas first of morn on Saturday, The seven and twentieth of May, When Hogarth, Thornhill, Tothall, Scott, And Forrest, who this journal wrote, From Covent-Garden took departure, To see the world by land and water.” His prose, however, is more to our purpose :—“ Saturday, May 27th, 1732, we set out with the morning, and took our departure from the Bedford Arms Tavern, Covent-Garden, to the tune of ‘Why should we quarrel for riches?’ The first land we made was Billingsgate, where we dropped anchor at the Dark House [a notorious resort of “ men of low degree.”] Here we continued till the clock struck one, then set sail in a Gravesend boat we had hired for ourselves. Straw.was our bed, and a tilt our covering. The wind blew hard at S.E. by E. We had much rain and no sleep for about three hours. We soon arrived at Gravesend, and found some difficulty in getting ashore, occasioned by an unlucky boy’s hav- ing placed his boat between us and the landing-place, and refusing us passage over his vessel; but as virtue surmounts all obstacles, we happily accomplished this adventure, and arrived at Mr. Bramble’s at six. There we washed our faces and hands, and had 4 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. our wigs powdered ; then drank coffee, eat toast and butter, paid our reckoning, and set out at eight.” They -walked on to Rochester, where they saw the cathedral, and drank six pots of ale. At Strood the pedestrian roysterers dined off soles and flounders, with crab sauce ; a stuffed and roasted calfs head, with “purt’nance minced” and liver fried, finishing with roast leg of mutton and green peas. The dinner was approved of,— “ The cook was much commended for’t, Fresh was the beer and sound the port.” Having visited Hoo and Queenborough, the Isles of Grains and Sheppey, they duly returned to Gravesend. The next morning, “at eight,” says Mr. Forrest, “we arose, breakfasted, and walked about the town. At ten went into a boat we had hired, with a truss of clean straw, a bottle of good wine, pipes, tobacco, and a match. We came merrily up the river, and quitting our boat at Billingsgate, got into a wherry that carried us through bridge, and landed at Somerset Water-gate.” About 1737, the tilts or “ awnings” went out of fashion, and larger sailing-boats, with a deck, came into vogue. ‘The first Gravesend steamer, named the Margery, 70 tons burden and 14 horse power, made her appearance on the river in 1816, and a second steamer, the Thames, soon followed in her wake. At this time there were six and twenty sailing-boats, varying from 22 to 45 tons burthen. They were all extinct in 1835. Then came a rapid increase of steam-boat enterprise. The “ Star” Company was formed in opposition to the “ Diamond” Company. New piers were built ; large and handsome vessels competed for speed ; and upwards of two millions of passengers were annually con- veyed to and fro, to their great edification, and the immense benefit of Gravesend. But the Diamond Company became bank- rupt a few years ago, and the river steam-boats suffered mate- rially from the competition of the London and Tilbury, and the North Kent railways. Yet to appreciate the wealth, commerce, and enterprise of England, one must steer through the crowded Pool, and onward by that Silent Highway, where argosies of untold value are con- stantly passing and repassing, to the restless waters of the Nor- thern Sea. The river Thames is an illustrated History of England, which he who runs may read. Our past and our present are here in constant juxtaposition. The feudal fortress rises, massive and LONDON BRIDGE. . 5 venerable, beside the modern Custom-house, and the stronghold, near whose rising walls “great Gloriana” reviewed her troops, faces the terminusofabusyrailway. At Erith was built,in thereign of bluff King Harry, the largest ship the English navy had ever owned; at Blackwall, in the days of Victoria, was constructed the monster-vessel whose like the world has never gazed upon. Upnor Castle recals the disgraces inflicted upon us by the Dutch ; the Caledonia brings back the glorious memories of Trafalgar. Every Englishman, once in his life, should make a pilgrimage from Battersea to Sheerness. Every foreigner who would obtain a glimpse of what English enterprise can effect, should enter Lon- don by its grandest “approach,” the river Thames. We start from Lonpon Bripgze—that wonderful thorough- fare, which from morning to night seethes with a rushing current of human life and activity—and at moderate speed thread our labyrinthine way through the forest of masts thronging and enlivening the Pool. “The river is crowded with shipping and steamers, and from this point begins that succession of vessels which affords the voyager so grand an idea of the vast trade of the British metropolis. There are, perhaps, few sights in the world more striking—certainly none more calculated to make an Englishman proud of his country. Here are not only the mer- chantmen of every part of the Queen’s dominions, but the ships that bear ‘to and fro’ the wealth of every civilized nation and people. ‘The Pool of the Thames’—for so is named that por- tion of our noble river that runs between the Isle of Dogs and the Tower—is truly a grand and glorious sight ; the proudest ‘ station’ in the world: where gather vessels of all sizes, of every form and character, from every seaport of the globe.”—(Mrs. S. C. Halt.) The river Thames—as far as concerns the due preservation of its bed, soil, and banks ; regulating the moorage of vessels ; deepening the channel ; erecting and maintaining public stairs ; governing the fisheries, and otherwise keeping it in exact order, and, if we may use the word, “ repair”—is under the control of a commission, consisting of twelve members, viz. the Lord Mayor ex officio, two aldermen, four common councilmen, the Deputy Master of the Trinity House, two persons chosen by the Admi- ralty, one by the Board of Trade, and one by the Trinity House. They remain in office for five years, and are eligible for re 6 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. election. Their jurisdiction extends from Staines to Leigh, ox rather a little below Leigh, and the revenue produced by ton- nage dues and other tolls is employed in the management and improvement of the river. The police of the Thames is entrusted to a force of ninety- eight men, with eight duty-boats and two supervision boats, their district extending from Battersea to Barking Creek. They are a valuable and experienced body, and since their establish- ment the river has been kept almost clear of great crimes, though tier-rangers, lumpers, truckers, and dredgermen, occasionally con- trive to elude their watchfulness, and do a little gentle “ thiey- ing.” The duty-boats lurk at night in all sorts of mysterious hiding-places, pulling out swiftly enough, you may be sure, when “ water-rats” are at their illegal work. The supervisors constantly move up and down the river, but very stealthily, and, by a curious but valuable idiosyncrasy, are always to be found at the right place at the right time. We drop down with the tide, but on account of the crowded state of the Pool, our speed is restricted to five miles an hour. The tide flows as high as Teddington, sixty-six miles from the Nore, and its average swiftness per hour is twenty miles; the velocity of the stream itself varies at different points from three to four miles, Between London and Gravesend the river curves into no less than sixteen “ reaches” or “ bends,” otherwise the rapidity of the current would be such as seriously to impede navigation. The first point of interest, as we wind in and out of Irish steamers, New York clippers, and French brigantines, is Bi1- LINGSGATE, on our left, a large and convenient fish-market, with a picturesque red brick building in the Italian style, designed by Mr. Bunning, and erected 1849-53. Its name is probably a trace of a right held by some ancient proprietor who formerly possessed this “gate” or “opening” to the river. From time immemorial a market has been held here, and the laws of Athelstan record that here a toll was levied on fishing-boats. William the Third made it “a free and open market for all sorts of fish” in 1699. Every morning, from five to seven, it now presents one of the most curious and stirring scenes in London. Fishmongers from all parts of the metroplis, and from many of the principal inland towns, gather around the salesmen’s stalls, which are loaded with salmon from Ireland, Scotland, and Nor- way ; with mackerel from the narrow seas; with turbot from THE CUSTOM-HOUSE—THE TOWER. the English Channel ; and sales are effected by Dutch auction, in a remarkably simple and expeditious manner. “ Every possible expedient and appliance is resorted to, to bring fish to market fresh. Suppose a turbot to be hauled, with a hundred other captives, early on Monday afternoon, on board one of the Barking fishing fleet, moored on a bank some twenty miles off Dover. He is no sooner taken on board than he is trans-shipped imme- diately, with thousands of his flat companions, in a row-boat, into a clipper, which is being fast filled from other vessels of the fleet. When her cargo is complete, she sets sail for the mouth of the Thames, and on entering it is met by a tug-steamer, which brings her up to Billingsgate early on Tuesday morning, bringing our turbot alive—for he has been put into a tank in the hold of the clipper.” —(Household Words.) That stately facade, with a cold classical air, adjoining the market, belongs to the Custom-Houss, erected in 1825, from Sir Robert Smirke’s designs. Noticeable in its interior is the Long Room, 199 feet by 66, and about 40 feet in height—one of the largest in the world. One half, or nearly so, of the customs- revenue of Great Britain is collected in the Port of London. The Esplanade, in front of this great commercial palace, affords a very pleasant walk. Cowper came here, in a fit of despon- dency, designing to commit suicide. The Towrr or Lonpon, with a thousand historical associa- tions “ expanding their cloudy wings” above it, next rises on the view. The Traitors’ Gate, under whose gloomy arch so many gallant spirits have passed to a prison and a scaffold, is discernible from the water ; and the bloody Tower, which tradition affirms to have been the scene of the murder of the princely sons of Edward the Fourth. The huge square mass of the White Tower, dating from the reign of William the Conqueror, when (about 1080) it was erected by the priest-architect Gundulph, is con- spicuous above the adjacent buildings, and mostly retains its ancient character. Meanwhile, the left bank of the river has presented nothing more attractive than a continuous front of dingy warehouses, swarthy “publics,” and squalid hovels. We soon pass the boundaries of Southwark, and the site of the once famous Abbey of Bermondsey—where Elizabeth Woodville took sanctuary for fear of “the boar of Gloucester”—and see before us the plain, inelegant structure of Rotherhithe Church. Close adjoining is the 8 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. entrance to the THamres TunneL, from Rotherhithe to Wapping, Brunel’s famous but somewhat useless achievement. It consists of a double sub-aqueous passage, conjoined by a central gas- lighted arcade, and is kept open day and night for foot-passen- gers, at one penny per head. Each archway is 20 feet high, The entire width is 35 feet; the length, 1200; and its depth beneath low-water mark, 75 feet. The tunnel was commenced in 1825; closed for seven years by an inundation which occurred in 1828; recommenced in 1835, and opened to the public in 1843. The total cost is said to have been £614,000. ROTHERHITHE, signifying, according to certain archeological authorities, “the sailor’s haven,’ claims a very respectable antiquity. Here Edward III. fitted out the royal fleet which won the victory of Sluys; and here, on the statements of Swift and Dickens, we must place the residence of two famous naviga- tors, Captain Lemuel Gulliver and Captain Cuttle. The Com- mercial Docks occupy, it is said, the trenches cut by King Knut in the eleventh century, which extended to Battersea, and com- pletely insulated the southern districts of London. The five docks comprise 60 acres of water and 40 of land, and were opened in 1807, On the right bank of the river we notice, in succession, Sr. KATHERINE’S and the Lonpon Docks, and the churches of Wap- . ping, Shadwell, and Limehouse. Sr. KatHEeRinn’s DooKs are so named from occupying the site of the old Hospital of St. Kathe- rine, founded by Queen Matilda in 1148. They were begun in May 1827, and completed by 2500 workmen in October 1828, at a cost of £1,700,000, and from the designs of Telford, the famous engineer. 1250 houses were pulled down, and 11,300 inhabitants removed, to clear the area (24 acres, 114 being water) required for their construction. The Lonpon Docks, designed by Rennie, cost £4,000,000, comprise an area of 90 acres (35 water), and are divided into three basins—the Western, Eastern, and Wapping ; approached by as many entrances—the Hermit, Wapping, and Shadwell. They were first opened in 1805. « As you enter these docks, the sight of the forest of masts in the distance, and the tall chimneys vomiting clouds of black smoke, and the many-coloured flags flying in the air, has a most peculiar effect, while the sheds, with the monster wheels arching through the sheds, look like the paddle-boxes of huge steamers. Along the quay, you see THE LONDON DOCKS. 9 now men with their faces blue with indigo, and now gaugers with their long brass-tipped rule dripping with spirit from the cask they have been probing ; then will come a group of flaxen- haired sailors chattering German ; and next, a black sailor, with a cotton handkerchief twisted turban-like around his head. Presently a blue-smocked butcher, with fresh meat and a bunch of cabbages in the tray on his shoulder, and shortly afterwards a mate with green parroquets in a wooden cage. Here you will see, sitting on a bench, a sorrowful-looking woman, with new bright cooking-tins at her feet, telling you she is an emigrant preparing for her voyage. As you pass along this quay the air is pungent with tobacco ; at that it overpowers you with the fumes of rum. Then you are nearly sickened with the stench of hides and huge bins of horns ; and shortly afterwards the atmo- sphere is fragrant with coffee and spices. Nearly everywhere you meet stacks of cork, or else yellow bins of sulphur, or lead- coloured copper ore. As you enter this warehouse, the flooring is sticky, as if it had been newly tarred, with the sugar that has leaked through the casks, and as you descend into the dark vaults, you see long lines of lights hanging from the black arches, and lamps flitting about midway. Here you sniff the fumes of the wine, and there the peculiar fungous smell of dry-rot. Then the jumble of sounds as you pass along the dock blends in any- thing but sweet concord. The sailors are singing boisterous nigger songs from the Yankee ship just entering ; the cooper is hammering at the casks on the quay; the chains of the cranes, loosed of their weight, rattle as they fly up again ; the ropes splash in the water; some captain shouts his orders through his hands ; a goat bleats frora some ship in the basin ; and empty casks roll along the stones with a hollow drum-like sound. Here the heavy laden ships are down far below the quay, and you descend to them by ladders, whilst in another basin they are high up out of the water, so that their green copper-sheathing is almost level with the eye of the passenger, while above his head a long line of bowsprits stretch far over the quay, and from them hang spars and planks as a gangway to each ship. This immense establishment is worked by from one to three thousand hands, according as the business is either ‘ brisk’ or ‘ slack.’ ”— (Henry Mayhew ) We sweep round Ovckotp’s Pornt (r.) into Limehouse Reach. A pole, surmounted with a pair of horns, formerly stood here, 10 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. and reminded passers by of the old tradition, how that King John was caught by a sturdy miller of Charlton making love to the miller’s fair wife ; how that the king, to save his bones from the miller’s cudgel, told him to clear his eyes, and he should have as much land as he could see; and how that his vision, sharpened, we presume, by the desire of self-aggrandizement, extended even to this conspicuous headland. The king kept his promise, but added to it the stipulation that, once a year, the miller should walk from Charlton to the Point, his head crowned with the glory of a pair of horns. On our left stretches the low marshy ground of the IsLE or Dogs, separated from Poplar by a canal or “cut” (now belonging to the West India Docks, which extend right across its base). An- tiquarians are not agreed upon the derivation of this canicular term.* Stow says, “It is so called for that a waterman carried a man into this marsh, and there murthered him. The man having a dog with him, he would not leave his master ; but hunger forced him many times to swim over the Thames to Greenwich, which the waterman who plied at the bridge [guas?, jetty] observing, fol- lowed the dog over, and by that means the murthered man was discovered. Soon after, the dog swimming over to Greenwich, where there was a waterman seated; at him the dog snarled and would not be beat off; which the other watermen perceiving (and knowing of the murther) apprehended this strange waterman, who confessed the fact, and was condemned and executed.” Dr. Woodward, on the other hand, maintains that “it is so called be- cause when our former princes made Greenwich their country seat, and used it for hunting, the kennels for their dogs were kept on this marsh; which usually making a great noise, the seamen and others thereupon called the place the Isle of Dogs.” Quot homines, tot sententue! Let the reader adopt the theory he liketh best. The West Inp1a Docks, the largest and most splendid in the world, occupy no less than 295 acres, and were constructed at a cost of £1,200,000. The first stone was laid by Pitt, July 12th, 1800 ; the first ship entered the basin, August 21st, 1802. The engineer was William Jessop. “A large affair are these docks. Only think of an Import Dock that will contain at one time 200 vessels of 300 tons each; and an Export Dock, not very much * A classical origin has been found for it by Baxter, who thinks it the Kouvevvos Of Ptolemy. In Celtic, Cuninis; Lat., Canwm Insula. THE ISLE OF DOGS-—DEPTFORD. 11 smaller, and a still longer but narrower South Dock, and a Timber Dock of notable dimensions ; and warehouses which have contained at one time 150,000 hogsheads of sugar, 500,000 bags of coffee, 30 or 40,000 pipes of rum and Madeira, 15,000 logs of mahogany, and 20,000 tons of logwood.”—(Household Words.) The Isle of Dogs has not inaptly been described as “a low, green, swampy field, fringed with industry, and inhabited by a few cows.” The fringe is squalid, but immensely precious! Manufacturers of acids and alkalis, seed-crushers, tarpaulin- makers, ropemakers, sailmakers, anchorsmiths, copper merchants, mast and blockmakers, ship-chandlers, bitumen companies, lava works, cement works, ship-yards, white-lead works—crowd every available bit of ground contiguous to the river. Observe the timber-preserving works of Sir William Burnett, the white-lead works of Messrs. Pontifex, the engineering establishments of the Napiers, Swayne arid Bovill, and Scott Russell. In the latter’s yard was put together, plank by plank, the monstrous Great Eastern. The river-bank of the island is named Millwall, from the wind- mills which formerly crowded the embankment. We turn to the right shore of the Thames, on which is situated the town of DEPTFORD [Population, 84,6538. Three miles from London by rail.] Yonder long line of low, dull-looking buildings and monstér- sheds, roofed with slates, indicates the position of the Dockyard (31 acres), established about 1513 by Henry VIIL; it has been since continued with successive alterations and improvements as a national establishment, though rapidly outstripped in size and importance by Plymouth, Pembroke, and Portsmouth. Henry VIIL’s building is still standing ; but to examine it the tourist must land. The Victualling Offices* occupy a considerable range of brick buildings, and are worth a visit, especially in slaughter- ing time, when herds of oxen are killed for salting, as the process adopted is somewhat singular. A man stands on the palings surrounding the pen into which the cattle have been driven. An animal is selected. He suddenly jumps upon its neck, and holds it by the horns, while his companion slays it with one blow from his axe. Biscuit baking has also its peculiarity of treatment. A * Tickets of admission are procurable only at the Ordnance Office. 12 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. steam-engine kneads the dough and cuts it into shape. The attendant in the bake-house takes up the biscuits one by one, and standing some yards from the oven, pitches them into it so that they fall upon each other with remarkable exactness. A ton of dough is converted into biscuits in twenty-five minutes. On a portion of the site of the Victualling-Yard stood Sayes Court, in Elizabeth’s reign the mansion of the Earl of Sussex, who figures so conspicuously in the pages of “ Kenilworth,” and afterwards the metropolitan residence of “Sylva” Evelyn—John Evelyn of Wotton, one of the best and pleasantest of men. He lent it, in 1698, to Peter the Great, while that remarkable mo- narch was studying shipbuilding in the adjacent dockyards, and he in return, ruined Evelyn’s beautiful and “most boscaresque gardens,” driving a wheel-barrow pellmell through the glossy hedges, and filling his house with “people right nasty,” who indulged in loud noises and bowls of brandy. Evelyn had removed from Sayes Court to leafy Wotton in the previous year, where he lived with his brother on the friendliest terms, and of which he became the proprietor on his brother’s death. The author of “Sylva” died at his house in Wotton, Surrey, on the 27th of February 1706. Of Sayes Court not a stone remains. The mansion stood on the site of the old workhouse. Recollections of Peter the Great are, or rather were, asso- ciated with another house in Deptford, which stood at Hughes’ Fields in St. Nicholas’ parish, and was pulled down in 1858. Here his manner of life was exceedingly simple. He worked all day, he drank all night. When he went abroad, wondering crowds attended his footsteps. His appearance certainly was cal- culated to excite curiosity. He was at this time tall and stout, quick, and nimble of foot; rapid in all his movements, with a plump round face, brown eyebrows, and curling hair, and trucu- lent look. He swung his arms rapidly as he strode along, scowling indignantly on the mob which pressed around him. It was to Deptford “the Golden Hind” returned, after bear- ing Sir Francis Drake around the world, and fluttering the Spaniards in their opulent palaces on the Spanish Main “ like an eagle in a dovecote.” On board the famous vessel her captain right royally entertained “that goddesse heavenly bright,— Mirrour of grace and majestie divine, Great ladie of the greatestisle. . . . ’—SPENSER, DEPTFORD : ITS CHURCHES. 13 the glorious Elizabeth, and received the honour of knighthood, and the queenly compliment “that his actions did him more honour than the title she conferred.” A copy of Latin verses, composed by the scholars of Winchester College, and blending the praises of the queen and the ship, were on this occasion nailed to the mast (April 4th, 1581). By Elizabeth’s orders the ship was laid up in the Deptford Dockyard, and the cabin was afterwards fitted up for the entertainment of its numerous visitors. ‘When it would hold no longer together, a chair was made from one of its planks, and presented to the University of Oxford. Deptford has four CHurcHEs: St. Nicholas (patron of sea- faring men), a vicarage; St. Paul’s, a rectory; St. John’s, a perpetual curacy; and St. James’, a perpetual curacy for the out- lying district of Hatcham: Sr. NicHounas is large, but unin- teresting, with a square embattled tower of flint and stone. It was almost rebuilt in 1716, and has undergone numerous changes but few improvements. The only noticeable monuments are those of Captain Hdward Fenton, d. 1603, a famous Elizabethan navigator, who accompanied Frobisher in his Arctic voyages, and fought against the Armada; and Peter Pett, d. 1652, master. shipwright of the Royal Yard, “the Noah of his age,” and in- ventor of the frigate, “illud eximium et novum navigii ornamen- tum quod nostri frigatum nuncupant, hostibus formidulosum, suis utilissimum atque tutissimum,’—that excellent new orna- ment of the marine which we call frigate, very terrible to our enemies, exceedingly safe and useful for ourselves. Of the other Deptford churches, our charity induces us to say nothing evil, while our honesty forbids us to say anything good. Near St. Nicholas’ stands the Hospital for old mariners, estab- lished in the reign of Henry VIII, in connection with the corporation of the Trinity Houss. “This society, founded by Sir Thomas Spert, comptroller of the navy to Henry VIIL., was first established at this place, and incorporated by the name of ‘ The Master, Warden, and Assistants of the Guild or Fraternity of the most glorious and undivided Trinity, and of St. Clement, in the parish of Deptford Stroud, in the county of Kent’ This com- pany consists of a master, deputy-master, thirty-one elder brethren, and an unlimited number of inferior members (‘younger brethren’], out of whom the elder brethren are elected. Among these are always some of the great officers of state ; the remainder are captains, either in the royal navy or of ? 14 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. merchantmen. ‘This corporation, having for its object the in- crease and encouragement of navigation, the good government of seamen, and the security of merchantmen on the coasts, is in- vested with the powers of examining the mathematical classes in Christ’s Hospital ; of examining and licensing masters of ships ; appointing pilots both for the royal navy and for merchant ships ; settling the rates of pilotage ; erecting, ordering, and maintain- ing lighthouses, buoys, beacons, and other sea-marks, for the better security of ships ; granting license to seamen to row on the Thames in time of peace, or when past service ; licensing aliens to serve on board English ships ; hearing and determining complaints of officers and seamen in the merchant service, sub- ject to an appeal to the Admiralty. The revenue of the com- pany, which arises from tonnage, ballastage, beaconage, &c., and from contingent benefactions, is applied (after defraying the ex- penses of lighthouses, etc.) to the relief of decayed seamen, their widows, and orphans. The members of this corporation enjoy various privileges and immunities. The ancient hall at Deptford, where their meetings were formerly held, was pulled down about the year 1787, and an elegant building erected for that purpose in London, near the Tower.’—-(Lysons.) H.R. H. the Duke of Edinburgh is the present master, and Admiral Sir R Collinson, K.C.B., is deputy. At Deptford Creek the stream of the Ravensbourne joins the Thames. It rises on Keston Heath— ‘Wanders in Hayes and Bromley, Beck’nam vale, And straggling Lew’sham, to where Deptford Bridge Uprises, in obedience to its flood.” At Lewisham it forms a junction with the Lee. Off Deptford was moored the hospital-hulk, for “seamen of all nations,” late the Caledonia line-of-battle ship. Its place was formerly occupied by the Dreadnought, a 98 gun-ship, one of Nelson’s fleet at Trafalgar. Hitherto we have been somewhat perilously voyaging among ships of all nations, with huge store-houses, quays, and wharves on either side ; but now the river broadens into a noble, gleam- ing highway, and over the sharp curve of the left bank rise the glittering domes and stately facades of Grumnwicu Hospiran. - “Those who approach it by driving through any of the pleasant villages that divide Greenwich from London—~-nominally so, GREENWICH. 15 indeed, for the road is now a continuation of houses all the way —will see with exceeding delight the glory of England—the pride of every Englishman! ‘Taken from any point of view, it is ‘a palace ’—beautiful in construction, graceful in all its pro- portions, as grand and imposing a structure as any nation of the modern world can shew. But it is especially striking when seen as we voyage the Thames, either upwards or downwards ; and dead must be the heart of him who does not share the sentiment—if he cannot repeat the lines—of the poet— ‘Hail! noblest structure, imaged on the wave! A nation’s grateful tribute to the brave: Hail! blest retreat from war and shipwreck, hail!’ It is not because here many monarchs had their chosen seat, that as a ‘royal’ palace it was famous for centuries—it is not even because it ‘gave Eliza birth, that we ‘kneel and kiss the consecrated earth ’—but because here three thousand veterans repose after years of tempest and battle—maimed many of them, aged all of them ; they have done their work ; they have earned repose as the right of toil, and honour as the meed of victory.”— (Mrs. 8. C. Hall.) GREENWICH. [Population of town, 46,580. Hotels: Trafalgar, Ship, Pier, Crown and Sceptre, The King’s Arms, etc.] GREENWICH retains the name given to it by the old Norsemen, when, sailing up the broad waters of the “silver-winding Thames,” they first gazed with delight upon its wide-spread leafiness and bold verdurous ascent ; and it still rejoices in those characteristics which its Saxon name implies. King Alfred’s niece Eltruda, who had married Count Baldwin of Flanders, bestowed it, in conjunction with Deptford and Lewisham, upon the opulent abbey of St. Peter’s, Ghent. When Henry V. sup- pressed the alien priories, it was then conveyed to the Carthusian monastery at Sheen, except a tolerable “ cantle,’ whereon “the good Duke Humphrey” erected his famous palace of Placentia, or La Plaisance. This “Pleasaunce” became a well-beloved royal retreat. 16 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. Edward the Fourth enlarged and improved it ; Henry the Eighth was born under its roof, and delighted in making it “a pleasant, perfect, and princely palace.” It witnessed the ill-starred nup- tials of Catherine of Arragon, Anne Boleyn, and Anne of Cleves; and those gorgeous mimes and mummeries in which the luxurious taste of the Tudors so hugely delighted. Within its walls, “ on the daie of the Epiphanie at night,” in 1513, was held the first disguising, “after the manner of Italie, called a maske, a thing not seen afore in Englande.” And on New Year’s night, was made in the Hall “a castle, gates, tower, and dungeon, garnished with artilerie and weapon, after the most warlike fashion ; and on the frount of the castle was written, ‘ Le Fortresse Dangerus ;’ and within the castle were six ladies, clothed in russet satyn, laid over with leves of gold, and every owde knit with laces of blewe silke and golde: on their heads coyfes and cappes all of gold. After this castle had been carried about the hall, and the Queen had beheld it, in came the King, with five other appareled in coates, the one halfe of russet satyn, spangled with spangles of fine gold, the other halfe rich clothe of gold; on ther heddes cappes of russet satyn, embroidered with works of fine gold bullion. These six assaulted the castle : the ladies, seying them so lustie and coragious, wer content to solace with them, and upon farther communication to yeld the castle: and so thei came down and daunced a long space. And after the ladies let the knights into the castle, and then the castle suddenly vanished out of their sights."—(Hall’s Chronicles.) This was “the seat that gave Eliza birth” (Sept. 7, 1533), as well as the amiable Edward the Sixth, and the unhappy Mary, 1516. Edward the Sixth died here, July 6, 1553. Elizabeth received under its roof (June 1588) the Dutch depu- ties who proffered her the crown of the United Provinces ; and it was here that Hentzner saw her in 1598, when the sun of her glory was setting, “ her face oblong, fair, but wrinkled ; her eyes small, yet black and pleasant ; her lips narrow, and her teeth black ;.she wore false hair, and that red ; and upon her head she had a small crown, reported to be made of some of the gold of the celebrated Lunebourg table.” From the palace win- dows she bade farewell to her gallant sea-rovers, her Frobishers and Gilberts, who went forth in their frail small barks to carry the fame of England to the Southern Seas. And it was in this vicinity that Raleigh made his fortune and spoiled his cloak, ac- ie abate: ( INSTITUTION GREENWICH HOSPITAL. GO, Lh naw SE a oe a | ~~ £45 G0 “ AA Y — “ ad cording to that irrefragable authority, the author of “ Kenilworth.” James the First was fond of “the Pleasaunce,” and still fonder of pursuing the chase in the neighbouring park, where, as the reader will remember, he was, on one memorable occasion, accosted somewhat abruptly by the adventurous Glenvarloch (see “ The Fortunes of Nigel,” c. 27), and put to grievous alarm. Sully had an audience of the pedant Tudor at Greenwich. “I was above a quarter of an hour,” he says, “ before I could get to the foot of his throne, occasioned both by the great numbers that were already there, and because I made all my household walk before me. ‘The king no sooner perceived me than he descended two steps, and would have descended them all, so very desirous he appeared to receive and embrace me, had not one of his ministers (Sir Robert Cecil), who stood next him, whispered softly in his ear ‘that he ought to go no further. ‘If? said he aloud, ‘I shew this ambassador particular marks of honour, and such as are con- trary to custom, I mean not thereby to give a precedent to others ; I particularly love and esteem him for the affection which I know he has for me, for his firmness in our religion, and his fidelity to his master.” ”—(Sullzy’s Memoirs.) James I. commenced a new building, “ The Queen’s House,” for his consort, Anne of Denmark. It was finished by Inigo Jones for Henrietta Maria. A second palace was begun by Charles IL, who pulled down the old Placentia, or Plaisance, of which Leland had sung— Happy the man whose lucky wit could frame— To suit this place—so elegant a name, Expressing all its beauties in the same ;” and ordered the construction of a “very great house,” but only finished that portion which is now the west wing of the Hospital. The design was made by Webb, Inigo Jones’s son-in-law. After the triumph at La Hogue (1691), it was found difficult to provide accommodation for the wounded seamen who had fought so bravely to secure the fruits of “the Glorious Revolu- tion,” and Queen Mary, ever melting with pity and compassion, determined upon devoting the new palace to its present noble purpose. She died (1692) before she could realize her philan- thropic design; but her husband, William of Nassau, out of tender reverence for her memory and her virtues, determined it should be carried out, and entrusted its execution to Sir Christo- 0 18 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. pher Wren. ‘The first stone of the new building was laid by John Evelyn, treasurer of the navy, on the 30th of June 1696, and the palace was formally appropriated “for the reliefe and support of seamen serving on board the ships or vessells belong- ing to the navy royall, who by reason of age, wounds, or other disabilities, shall be incapable of further service at sea, and be unable to maintain themselves ; and also for the sustentation of the widows, and maintenance and education of the children of seamen happening to be slaine or disabled in such sea-service.” But the building, though opened for pensioners in 1705, was not finally completed until the reign of George IL, when the money arising from the forfeited estates of the Earl of Derwentwater, who was out in “ the ’15,” was applied for that purpose. [The Hospital is open to the public on Tuesdays and Fridays free ; at fourpence per head on other days. The Painted Hall and the Chapel are open from 10 a.m. to 7 P.M. in the summer; from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. in the winter ; and on Sundays after Divine service. Seamen and soldiers have at all times free admission. } A river terrace, 860 feet in length, adorned with a granite obelisk in memory of the gallant Bellot, stretches in front of the Hospital, and offers a promenade of great animation and beauty. The ship-crowded river—the taper masts rising from the docks of Blackwall—the noble facade of the seamen’s palace—and the ever-gleaming background of woody hills—form a rich and interesting picture, on which the eye cannot fail to rest with gratification. The Hosprrat itself, as viewed from the terrace, has a grand and imposing aspect. The jist wing on the right is King Charles’s building, and illustrates the genius of Webb. Behind it stands King William’s, with cupola and vestibule, characteristic in every detail of Wren’s elevated conceptions ; opposite to this, observe, is Queen Mary’s building, containing the chapel; and to the left, facing the river, notice Queen Anne’s. In the centre of the great square stands “the Queen’s House,” built for Henrietta Maria, and now occupied by the Royai Naval School. [There are three separate schools—for the sons of officers (400), the sons of sea- men and marines (400), and 200 girls, who are clothed, fed, and educated. ] In the quadrangle stands a statue of George IL., fashioned out of a block of marble taken from the French by Sir George Rooke. Why the Hanoverian monarch should have assumed for the nonce the laurel and costume of a Roman emperor, the sculptor (Rysbrack) has neglected to inform us, GREENWICH HOSPITAL. ; 19 Crossing the quadrangle, we enter, first, the Painted Hall, 106 feet by 56, and 50 feet in height, the handiwork of Wren ; a noble gallery of sea-pictures, naval relics, and portraits of naval worthies. The emblematical ceiling and walls were painted by Sir James Thornhill between 1708-27, and cost £3 per yard for the ceiling, £1 per yard for the sides—in all £6685. The allegory on the ceiling is of a portentous character, and radiant with the signs of the Zodiac, “their attitudes and their draperies varied, and adapted to the seasons they possess ;” with King William and Queen Mary, enthroned amongst Pru- dence, Temperance, Fortitude, and Justice; with Concord, Cupid, the lamb and olive of Peace, and the Athenian cap of liberty ; with “ Time bringing Truth to light ;” with Pallas and Hercules making quick work of all the Vices ; with Apollo ina resplendent chariot ; and with “all manner of maritime trophies, in mezzo-relievo, as anchors, rudders, masts, sails, sea-guns, boats, colours, bombs, mortars, small-arms, powder-barrels, quadrants, and compasses.” In the north end of the gallery observe “ the famous Tycho Brahe, that noble Danish knight and great orna- ment of his profession and human nature,’ and near him, Copernicus, with his theory of the heavens in his hand. At the south end of the gallery one is confronted by Mr. Flamstead, astronomer royal, and his ingenious disciple, Mr. Thomas Weston. The arts and sciences, and personifications of the principal English rivers, are noticeable at other points. Upon the Nelson relics in the upper hall the visitor will gaze with a mournful interest. They are the coat worn by the great sea-chief at the Nile, and the coat and waistcoat in which he was killed at Trafalgar. “The coat is the undress uniform of a vice-admiral, lined with white silk, with lace on the cuffs, and epaulettes. Four stars—of the orders of the Bath, St. Ferdinand and Merit, the Crescent, and St. Joachim—are sewn on the left breast, as Nelson habitually wore them; which disproves the story that he purposely adorned himself with his decorations on going into battle. The course of the fatal ball is shewn by a hole over the left shoulder, and part of the epaulette is torn away ; which agrees with Dr. Sir William Beattie’s account of Lord Nelson’s death, and with the fact that pieces of the bullion and pad of the epaulette adhered to the ball, which is now in her Majesty’s possession. The coat and waistcoat are stained in several places with the hero’s blood.” —(Sir Harris Nicolas). Observe, too, the 20 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. metal relics (in a glass case) which record the fate of the gallant Franklin and his followers; and the astrolabe presented by Queen Elizabeth to Sir Francis Drake. In the vestibule lie other relics, scarcely less interesting—the flags, tattered and bullet-torn, won from England’s enemies by Howe, Duncan, St. Vincent, and Nelson, casts of whose statues are placed beneath their fluttering folds. The originals, respectively sculptured by Flaxman, Baily, Westmacott, and Flaxman, are in St. Paul’s Cathedral. To enumerate all the pictures enshrined in this noble gal- lery is unnecessary, as their subjects are there indicated by ap- propriate labels, but the most interesting may be briefly al- luded to :— In the Vest’bule—Vasco di Gama, the great Portuguese navi- gator, and Columbus, from a painting by Parmegiano, at Naples. In the Great Hall—Lord Howard of Effingham, afterwards Earl of Nottingham, Elizabeth’s Lord High Admiral, by Vanso- mer ; Sir Christopher Myngs, Sir Thomas Tyddiman, Sir John Harman, the Earl of Sandwich, Sir Joseph Gordon, Sir William Berkeley, Sir Thomas Allen, Monk, Sir Jeremy Smith, Sir Wil- liam Penn, and Sir George Ayscue, half-lengths, by Str Peter Lely, of the principal admirals and vice-admirals engaged in the great fight with the Dutch fleet, June 1st, 1666. [Mr. Pepys paid a visit to “‘ Mr, Lilly’s, the painter’s,” to see these heads— ‘some finished, and all begun”—and says they were done for the Duke of York to hang in his chamber, “and very finely they are done indeed.” They were presented to tha Hospital by George IV. } Robert Blake, the great sea-chief of the Commonwealth, by Briggs; Russel, Earl of Orford, the victor at La Hogue, Bock- man; Sir Cloudesley Shovel, lost off the Scilly Isles, in 1707, Dahl; Sir George Rooke, the hero of Gibraltar, Dahl; Admiral Benbow, in a complete suit of armour (!), Aneller; Alexander Hood, Lord Bridport, who defeated the, French fleet in 1795, Sir Joshua Reynolds; Sir Charles Hardy, Romney; Sir Edward Hughes, an early patroh of Nelson and Collingwood, Reynolds ; Captain Cook, painted for Sir Joseph Banks, by Dance; King William IV., Morton; Sir John Munden, Dahl; Admiral Kempenfeldt. lost in the Royal George, in 1782, by Keate— GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 21 “* His sword was in its sheath, _ His fingers held the pen, When Kempenfeldt went down With twice four hundred men.”—(Cowrer.) Lord Exmouth, Owen; Sir Thomas Masterman Hardy, Avans; and Lord Collingwood, Howard. The principal historical pictures are—Defeat of the Invin- cible Armada, Loutherberg; George III. presenting a sword of honour to Earl Howe, on board the Queen Charlotte, at Spit- head, after the victory of the 1st of June 1794, Briggs, R.A. ; The Sea-fight of the 1st of June, Loutherberg; Admiral Duncan receiving the Dutch Admiral’s (De Winter) sword, after the victory at Camperdown, 1797, Drummond; Death of Cook, Zofany; Bombardment of Algiers, Chambers; Death of Nelson, Devis ; the Battle of Trafalgar, Zurner, presented in 1829 by George IV., a fine painting, but very inaccurate in its details; the Battle of the Nile, Arnold ; the Battle off Cape St. Vincent— “* When Jack the tawny whiskers singed Of the astonished Don.”—(D1spin)— representing Nelson boarding the San Josef, George Jones; the Victory of Quiberon Bay, on the 20th of November 1759— “and Conflans run on a lee-shore by bold Hawke ”—Domuinic Serres. | The statues, erected by vote of Parliament at a cost of £4500, do honour to Sir Sidney Smith (by Atré) Lord Exmouth (by Macdowell), and Lord de Saumarez (by Steel). In the Uprrr Hatt, the walls and ceiling are profuse of the allegorical breadths of Sir James Thornhill. The ceiling represents Queen Anne and her consort, the “ st 2 possible?” George of Denmark ; and the walls, the landing of William of Nassau at Torbay (1688), and of George I. at Greenwich (1714). The models of “ the Centurion”—Anson’s ship in his circumnavigation of the globe —and of “the Royal George,” lost at Spithead in 1782, will in- terest the visitor. In the adjacent room, observe the pictorial illustrations of Nelson’s career, chiefly by Westall,and a View of Greenwich Hospital as it was in 1690. Our next point of interest is the CHAPEL, on the other side of the broad avenue, and in Queen Mary’s portion of the buildings. The present richly decorated structure, built by “ Athenian” Stuart (James Stuart, whose work on the Antiquities of Athens is 22 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. still an authority), in 1779-89, occupies the site of the original building destroyed in ’79 by fire. It was repaired and restored in 1851; is of thesame size as the Painted Hall ; and has a rich and luxurious character about it, scarcely in accordance with its appropriation. ‘The altar-piece, by Benjamin West, represents “the shipwreck of St. Paul,” and by the same artist were fur- nished designs for the pulpit and reading-desk. The monuments to Admiral Sir Richard Keats (by Chantrey), and Sir Thomas Hardy (by Behnes), were given by William IV. Keats was that sovereign’s “old shipmate and watchmate,” on board the Prince George, 1779-1781. The chiaro-oscuros surmounting the lower windows, represent various passages in the history of our Saviour. and were executed by De Bruyn. [Below the Chapel and the Painted Hall are the Din1ne HAttxs, where the resi- dent pensioners take their meals. The constitution of the Hospital is now greatly modified by a recent Act of Parliament: sinecures have been abolished ; thenum- ber of out-pensioners increased; and only the infirm and sick are admitted in- mates. In addition to lodging, clothing, and rations, the boatswains are allowed 2s. 6d. a-week, the mates 1s. 6d., and seamen 1s. for pocket-money. The income of the Hospital is above £130,000 a-year, and is thus derived :—Annual grant of £20,000 from Parliament ; fines levied against smuggling, £19,500; effects of Cap- tain Kidd, the pirate, granted by Queen Anne in 1705, £6472; a large sum granted in 1708, being forfeited and unclaimed shares of prize and bounty money ; £6000 a-year, granted in 1710, out of the coal and culm tax; various private bequests, particularly one of £20,000 from Robert Osbaldeston ; the valuable estates for- feited by the Earl of Derwentwater (1715), and from other minor sources. ] The Dormitory usually shown to the public is in King Charles’s wing, and was originally intended for the library of the palace. It is a long dull chamber, partitioned off into a number of little cabins, each of which is tenanted by a single pensioner, and fitted up and adorned as best he pleases. In the CoLonNADE the visitor will notice an alto-relievo commemoration of Nelson’s one hundred and twenty-two battles. In this vicinity, too, may be examined the huge gun brought from the Dardanelles in 1801 by Admiral Duckworth, and its carriage, carved with the names and dates of various naval victories .* Leaving the Hospital by the west gate, we pass quickly into GREENWICH PaRK (188 acres), one of the most delightful “ spots of greenery” in the neighbourhood of London. “ Would you be- * In the cemetery attached to the Hospital lies Nicholas Tinda (d. 1774) formerly one of its chaplains, the translator of Rapin's Eng- lish History, and rector of Alverstoke. GREENWICH PARK. 23 lieve,” wrote Horace Walpole to Bentley, “TI had never been in Greenwich Park! I never had; and am transported. Even the glories of Richmond and Twickenham hide their diminished heads.” It was first surrounded with a wall of brick by James I, and was “ tastefully laid out” by (it is said) Le Notre, in Charles I’s reign. The elms and chesnuts were planted by Evelyn. The views from the higher ground—from “One Tree Hill” (on the east), and the ascent crowned by the Observatory (west), are very fine; the broad abundant river, with its goodly burthen of tall ships, lending a singular animation to the picture. The grounds are agreeably diversified with hill and dale; and from the walks, frequented by happy mothers and gambolling children, the tourist may readily withdraw to secluded bowers of leafiness—the same perhaps which afforded a pleasant shelter to brave old Samuel Johnson, when he lived in Church Street (in 1737), and, walking in the Park, composed a considerable portion of his tragedy of “ Irene.” . ' Many “eminent hands” have written of the humours of Greenwich Fair, formerly held amongst the verdurous alleys of the Park, and the great saturnalia of the lower orders of the me- tropolis ; but it was “ put down” in 1856, after having exhibited a gradual decline for many years. ‘The Park, however, is stilla favourite resort of the London millions; and-the tourist should certainly contrive to visit it on a summer holiday, not only for its own beauty, but for the enjoyment to be derived by a pure mind-in contemplating the happiness of others. Shopmen, in strange imitations of aristocratic attire; the London gamin, with the unwonted luxury of a cheap cigar or a penny pie ; the well- to-do tradesman, with his wife in the gayest of shawls, and his daughters in the most modish of bonnets; coquettish nursemai(s and trains of merry children, a limping pensioner or two, a sol- dier with his wife or sweetheart on his arm ; the invariable Hindoo, with a tray of suspicious-looking comestibles ; ginger- beer vendors, retailers of apples, oranges, and nuts ; adventurous speculators, with “ Aunt Sally” as their main attraction ; foreign sailors, rolling out strange oaths; English seamen, jovial, good- tempered, and frolicksome; and the scientific entrepreneurs, who, affected by the genius loci, offer you the assistance of their tele- scopes at the moderate charge of one penny—such are a few among the myriad varieties of human character noticeable in Greenwicll LPHO'S oot at chelpeppler botiyayp.| brar y Normal, Iliinois ‘ ‘< 24 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. Meanwhile we climb the gradual ascent, and reach the OBSERVATORY, the first stone of which was laid by the astronomer Flamsteed, August 10th, 1675—a quaint brick building, with two small domes and curious corner turrets, which occupies the site of a tower, called MIREFLEUR, raised by the good Duke Humphrey, and said (by Hentzner) to have suggested the tower of Miraflores, in the wonderful romance of “Amadis de Gaul.” Flamsteed was named by Charles Il. the first astronomer-royal, and occupied his astronomical retreat for three and forty years. He was succeeded by Halley, Bradley, Nathaniel Bliss, Nevil Maskelyne and others. His present representative is Sir G. B. Airy, who receives a salary of £800 per annum ; and the whole yearly cost of the establishment does not exceed £7000. It effects a vast amount of good for so small an expenditure ; and the observations therein recorded are of permanent advan- tage, not to savans only, but to all who “go down to the sea in ships.” The spire on the eastern turret indicates “ Greenwich time” to the civilized world. Every day at 5 min. to 1, a large black wooden ball is raised half way up ; at 2 min.to 1it is lifted quite to the top; at 1 precisely it falls ; and the captains of the vessels which crowd the neighbouring river are thus enabled to correct their chronometers, while, by electric agency, “ Green- wich time” is instantaneously communicated to the metropolis and various parts of England. “The part of the Observatory so conspicuous from without is the portion least used within. When it was designed by Chris- topher Wren, the general belief was that such buildings should be lofty, that the observer might be raised towards the heavenly bodies whose motions he was to watch. More modern science has taught its disciples better; and in Greenwich—which is an emi- nently practical Observatory—the working part of the building is found crouching behind the loftier towers. These are now occupied as subsidiary to the modern practical building. The ground floor is used asa residence by the chief astronomer ; above is the large hall originally built to contain huge moveable tele- scopes and quadrants, such as are notnowemployed. The turrets are the most useful portions of the old building. In one is placed the well-known contrivance for registering, hour after hour, and day after day, the force and direction of the wind. The wind turns a weathercock, and by aid of cog-wheels, the motion is transferred to a lead pencil fixed on a sheet of paper, and thus GREENWICH OBSERVATORY. 95 the wind is made to write down the direction which itself is blowing. Not far distant is a piece of metal, the flat side of which is ever turned by the weathercock to meet the full force of the wind, which blowing upon it, drives it back against a spring. To this spring is affixed a chain passing over pullies towards another pencil, fixed above a sheet of paper, and moving faith- fully, more or less, as the wind blows harder or softer. Close by is another contrivance for registering, in decimals of an inch, the quantity of rain that falls. The drops are caught, and passing down a tube, a permanent mark is made by which the quantity is determined.”—(Household Words.) The more recent buildings are occupied with the most perfect instruments modern science can command, and here are the tele- scopes best adapted for watching the moon, whenever she is visible ; the “ clock-stars,’ by which the true time-:is calculated more exactly than it could be from observations of the sun alone ; and other planetary bodies as they pass the meridian of Green- wich. The library contains a valuable collection of astronomical works. The chronometer room receives, on the first three Mon- days of the year, the choicest instruments of English makers for examination and trial. They remain there for several months, their rates being duly noted by two persons, and then the makers of the best receive prizes, and their instruments are purchased for the navy. Other competitors obtain certificates of excellence, which bring customers from the merchant service ; whilst others pass unrewarded. | “The Royal Observatory, according to a superstition not wholly extinct, is the head-quarters, not only of astronomy, but of astrology. The structure is awfully regarded by a small sec- tion of the community which ignorance has still left amongst us, as a manufactory of horoscopes, and a repository for magic mir- rors and divining-rods. On one occasion, a well-dressed woman called at the Observatory gate to request a hint as to the means of recovering a lost sum of money; and recently, somebody at Brighton dispatched the liberal sum of five shillings, in a post- office order, to the same place, with a request to have his nativity cast in return.”’—(Howsehold Words.) The brick towers overhanging the east wall of the Park, indi- cate the locality of VaANBruGcH Hovuss, or CastLx, erected by Sir John Vanbrugh the dramatist, the great builder of Blenheim 26 TO GRAVESEND’ BY RIVER. “Tie heavy on him, Earth, for he Laid many a heavy load on thee.” Returning into the town we visit, first, the ParisH-CHURCH, dedicated to St. Alphege, Archbishop of Canterbury, who was here imprisoned for seven months in the Danish camp (1012), and afterwards martyred. The old church fell into sad decay in 1710; the present building was raised in 1718, and contains the monument and dust of General Wolfe, the hero of Quebec, d. 1759. In the churchyard lie the remains of Lavinia Fenton, Duchess of Bolton, who bravely took the town by storm, and _ won her ducal coronet, through her admirable performance of “ Polly Peachum” in the “Beggar’s Opera.” The old building contained memorials to Thomas Tallis, d. 1585, “ esteemed the father of collegiate music” — - nies worthy wight, Who for long tyme in musick bore the bell ;” to Lambarde, the topographer, now interred at Sevenoaks ; and Admiral Sir Richard Stayner, d. 1656, one of the naval worthies of the Commonwealth. The living is a vicarage, in the gift of the Crown, and valued at £1000. [Other Cuurcuss are dedicated to St. Mary, the Trinity, and the Saviour. There is also a modern church dedicated to St. John, at Blackheath. The principal ScHoo zs are, “‘ the Green-Coat,” founded in 1672, for sons of Greenwich watermen ; “the Blue-Coat,” dating from 1752, which also receives girls ; and the ‘* Grey-Coat,” founded and endowed in 1643, by John Roan, for the sons of inhabitants of Green- wich. The JUBILEE ALMSHOUSES are 15 in number. Each almsman receives £10 ~ per annum. | South-west of the town stands QuEEN ELIZABETH’S COLLEGE, founded in 1576 by Lambarde, the author of the “ Perambu- lation of Kent,” and other topographical works, for twenty poor men and their wives. The trust is administered by the Mercers’ Company, and now amounts to about £500 per annum. NorFOLK COLLEGE, east of the Hospital, and easily distin- guished by its square central tower, was founded, in 1603, by Henry, Earl of Southampton, grandson of the Duke of Norfolk. It supports a warden and twenty brethren ; and is also governed by the Mercers’ Company. The decayed tomb of the foun- der, removed from the ancient church in Dover Castle (a.D. 1696), may still be seen in the collegiate chapel, consecrated in 1617. Greenwich has a good market ; a tolerable literary institute ; a large number of excellent shops; and numerous refreshment EAST INDIA DOOKS. 27 houses, whose lower windows are decorated with bills, informing visitors that “tea and shrimps” may be had at 9d. per head. The railway terminus stands opposite the turning of the Lewis- ham Road. ‘Trains leave for London every twenty-five minutes, Omnibuses to the city are also despatched at short intervals. Steamboats from the pier every twenty minutes. [Hints ror RamBies.—l. Through the Park to Blackheath, and thence to Lewisham—a pleasant breezy walk; and, by a delightful rural road, to Bromley ; cross to Chiselhurst, and return, by way of Eltham and Lee, to Greenwich. Alto- gether, some 14 miles. 2, Through the Park to Charlton, and across the Common to Woolwich. Visit the arsenal. Take the steamer to Blackwall, and inspect the shipyards, docks, etc. Return by boat or steamer to Greenwich. 3. From Green- wich to Camberwell, and thence to Brixton. Continue by the high road to Streatham.. Visit Norwood, and cross the country to Sydenham. Take the rail to New Cross, and walk from New Cross into Greenwich—about a 13 miles’ walk. 4. From Greenwich, by Blackheath, to Lee, and thence to Eltham. Visit the Palace. Cross to Shooter’s Hill (observe the noble view), and return either by Charlton or Woolwich—about 12 miles. ] Let us now resume our voyage down the river. Until we pass the extremity of the Isle of Dogs, on the east, and reach Blackwall, nothing on either shore calls for our notice. There we are tempted to land, to inspect the East India Docks, and partake of whitebait at Lovegrove’s, the Plough, the Artichoke, or the Royal Brunswick Hotel. The East Inp1a Docks were constructed in 1805-6, and occupy an area of 32 acres. The Import Dock covers 19 acres ; the Export, 10 ; and the basin, 3. Indian and Chinese traders, as large as 1400 tons, chiefly frequent them. Whitebait was formerly supposed to be the young of some larger fish, but Mr. Yarrell has satisfactorily established it as a variety of the clupeide, or herring family. “It is a little fish, something like the young of the shad, varying from two to six inches in length. From the beginning of April to the end of September it is caught in the Thames, seldom higher than Wool- wich or Blackwall, at flood-tide. The fishery is of rather a peculiar nature. The mouth of the net has about three square feet of area, with a very small mesh or bag-end. The boat is moored in the tide-way, where the water is from 20 to 30 feet deep, and the net, with its wooden framework is fixed to the side of the boat. The tail of the hose, swimming loose, is from time to time handed into the boat, the end untied, and its contents shaken out. The wooden frame forming the mouth of the net does not dip more than four feet below the surface of the water. The further the 28 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. fishermen go down towards the mouth of the river, the sconer they begin to catch whitebait after the flood-tide has commenced. When fishing as high as Woolwich, the tide must have flowed from three to four hours, and the water become sensibly brackish to the taste, before the whitebait make their appearance. They return down the river with the first of the ebb-tide; and all attempts to preserve them in well-boats, in pure fresh water, have failed. A few whitebait are caught near the Isle of Wight and in the Firth of Forth, but they are very little known except in the Thames.” —( Yarrell.) The visitor to Blackwall should not omit to see Messrs, Wigram’s extensive shipyards, which boast of an ancient pedi- gree. In the days of the Protectorate they belonged to Sir Henry Johnson, and passed from him, in turn, to his son and grandson, Sir William Johnson the first, and Sir William the second, who, during the reigns of Charles IL., James II, and William III., built for the royal navy no less than fifteen men-of- war. A Mr. Perry next became proprietor, and founded the Brunswick Dock, now incorporated in the East India Docks ; and he was succeeded by Messrs. Wigram and several others. The fine fleet of vessels belonging to this well-known shipyard cannot surely be matched by any others in the world. At Blackwall the metropolis comes to its last legs. “ Here is the end of all things—the ‘ Ultima Thule’ is reached. Here is the tavern which forms the final stopping-place of the Blackwall omnibuses, after having worked their long and weary way from Knightsbridge. Here, or hereabouts, are the last shipyards on the north bank of the Thames. Here is the last of our docks, until the new Victoria Docks in the Essex marshes are formed.* Here is the last station of the Blackwall Railway. Here is the last struggle of Middlesex for existence, Bow Creek being the only barrier between it and Essex. Here is the last bend and quirk of the river Lea, before it adds its humble driblet of water to the Thames. And here is the last and final limit to the metropolis, beyond which, for some miles, we have little else than low-lying ground.” On the right bank of the river, but at some slight distance, lies the pleasant village of CHARLTON, which may be visited either from Woolwich or Greenwich, but whose description we shall reserve for our second section. Observe, against the blue * They are now completed. WOOLWICH. 29 and shiny sky, the pleasant slopes of the far-famed Shooter's Hill. The long line of sheds, the slips supporting the huge skeletons of leviathan men-of-war, the clink of hammers, and the murmur of many voices, now indicate to us our arrival at WOOLWICH. [Population, 36,665. Hotels: King’s Arms, Crown and Anchor, Mitre. ] “ There are certain noticeable periods in the history of Wool- wich which it is pleasant to look at for a moment in conjunction. The first carries us back to the time of the Conqueror, when Haimo, the sheriff, was the one great man of the neighbourhood ; when there were but three cultivators of the soil rich enough to pay a yearly rent of 41d. each; and when the whole value of the manor was just three pounds. In the second, we behold Wool- wich raised to the rank of a royal dockyard, and Henry VIII. is personally inspecting, with great and evident satisfaction, the new ship that had been built in it, and named after him, Harry Grace ad Dieu, the largest ship ever built up to its time, 1515. This vessel had a peculiar and unfortunate destiny ; she was burnt, at the mature age for ships of eight-and-thirty years, in the very dockyard where she had been reared. In the third period, we perceive that Woolwich, though possessing a royal dockyard, and which had become still more famous since Henry VIIL’s time for the excellence of its ship-architecture, as was proved by the ves- sels of Drake and Hawkins, Cavendish and Frobisher, remained in all other respects but a comparatively unimportant fishing-vil- lage. ‘The three payers of rent of 41d. each had been replaced by but one hundred and twelve payers of rent.’—(Charles Knight.) The town of Woolwich now occupies a long tract of low and aguish ground, stretching two miles along the level bank of the Thames, and rising a little towards the south, where the ascent is crowned by the buildings of the Royal Artillery Barracks. Powis Street is a handsome thoroughfare, and among other good streets are Green’s End, Wellington Street, and Vicarage Place. Lovelace, the cavalier-songster, was born here in 1618, at the house of his father Sir William Lovelace, the site of which has long been forgotten. 30 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. [The churches are uninteresting. The parish church, dedicated to St. Mary MAGDALENE, was rebuilt in 1740. Schalch, of whom hereafter, lies in the church- yard. The rectory of Woolwich, in the gift of the Bishop of Rochester, is valued at £740. Sr. Jonn’s CHurcH (perpetual curacy), erected in 1840, is a tolerable example of modern Early English. Sr. THomas’s, near Charlton, was built in 1850. The perpetual curacy, in the gift of Sir T. Maryon Wilson, is worth £300. TRINITY (worth £300, also a perpetual curacy), is another recent erection. } The two points of greatest interest in Woolwich are the Dockyard and the Arsenal. The Dockyarp is usually allowed the honour of being “ The mother dock of England.” [Open daily from 9 to 5 : Admis- sion free.| Hither here or at Erith,—but most probably there,— was built the “ Henrye Grace de Dieu,” described by the Vene- tian ambassador, Giustinian, as “a galeas of unusual magnitude,” whose numerous heavy guns, he did not doubt, would overpower “any fortress, however strong.” It cost £6478 :8 :03, and was launched at Erith in October 1515, in the presence of Henry and his Queen, and “ well-nigh all the lords and prelates of the kingdom, who all dined on board at the king’s charge.” At Woolwich was built, in 1559, a large vessel of 900 tons, launched in the presence of, and named after, Queen Elizabeth. “ The Sovereign of the Seas”—pronounced by Fuller, “a liegir-ship of state, the greatest ship our island ever saw ”—was built here in 1637, by Mr. Peter Pett. She was afterwards named the Royal Sovereign, mounted 100 guns, had “three flush deckes, and a fore-castle, an halfe-decke, a quarter-decke, and a round-house.” Her sides were elaborately carved with gilded emblems and mottoes, designed and selected by Thomas Heywood ; and for this reason, and because she had played a notable part in their great naval defeats, she was called by the Dutch, the “ Golden Devil.” At Woolwich was built the unfortunate “ Royal George,” lost at Spithead ; and of late years its dockyard has contributed to the British navy some of its finest ships—among others, the * Royal Albert” (1854). The general features of a Royal Dockyard are doubtlessly familiar to the tourist. Ships in various stages of construction, and of vastly different proportions ; the busy workshops; the shears, by which boilers are lowered into their places on board the huge screw or paddle-steamers, floating in the basins; the Nasmyth steam-hammer, which cracks a nut, or snaps asunder a heavy bar of iron ; the grinding saw-mills ; the furnaces, kept alive by huge cylindrical bellows ; the gangs of sullen-looking WOOLWICH COMMON. 31 convicts, with their keeper and guard in attendance—these, as they are at Portsmouth and Plymouth, so may they be seen at Woolwich. The large iron shed over No. 5 slip should be observed: it was erected in 1857, and consists of a centre, 261 feet by 82, and two side-spans, each 232 feet by 32. The dry docks are two in number, and of great size. The basin is 400 feet by 300, and can accommodate the largest ships in the Queen’s service. The engine-factory will repay a visit. Other features to be examined are—the Parade, where the Royal Dockyard battalion exercise; the Surgery; the Chapel; the Guard-house; the Dockyard-school; and the Reservoir, sup- pled with water from Shooter’s Hill. These various buildings, slips, and basins extend a mile along the river-bank. In the stream are moored the convict-hulks—black, unwholesome-look- ing, and sombre. We quit the Dockyard and proceed through the noisy streets to Woolwich Common—a fine and breezy tract of open ground— passing on our way the barracks appropriated to the Royal Marines. We enter upon the Common through a couple of iron gates, and see, to our right, one end of the splendid barracks of the Royal Artillery; before us, a noble expanse of green sward (crossed by a line of buildings which terminate in the Royal Military Academy, and rising in the distance to the well-wooded acclivity of Shooter’s Hill); and, to our left, the tall tent-like form of the Rotunda, situated among richly undulating and broken grounds, diversified with glimpses of shining water and shadowy groups of noble trees. Let us first enter the RorunpDa. At every step some magnificent object greets us. Here a park of artillery point their “dumb, blank-looking, demure mouths” at us; there rises an earthwork, covered with green sods, and frowning with grim cannon. On each sidé of the gate is mounted a Cerberus gun, a piece of ordnance with three bores, captured from the French at Malplaquet by the great “ Marl- brook.” In the centre of the repository-ground stands an obelisk, - erected by the Royal Regiment of Artillery to their whilom colonel, the gallant Sir Alexander Dickson, and inscribed with the names of the seventeen battles wherein he fought for England. Yonder gun—named, with perhaps unintentional significance, “Voltaire”—was taken at Waterloo. Those pieces of ordnance, raised on a low platform, present a commentary on the history of improved means of human slaughter: they are specimens of 32 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. every kind of British cannon, from the culveryn and demi-saker, with which King Harry armed his round forts, to the splendid productions of modern science. The Rotunpa is thronged with curiosities. The bizarre Doric pillar in the centre is partly hidden by well-arranged military trophies, amongst which we observe, with interest, the complete armour of the chivalrous Bayard. A cinder, under a glass case, is the residuum of above 56,000,000 of one-pound notes destroyed by the Bank of England after they were called in. Every species of matchlock, arquebus, musket, and rifle— with models of every kind of cannon, mortar, and bomb—fire alarums, kettle-drums, models of quaint machines, and of cele- brated fortresses and dockyards, are here to be met with. Well pleased with our inspection of this military museum— the building itself, by the way, was once the banqueting-house of the Carlton Gardens, and received in 1815 the Allied Sove- reigns and the Prince-Regent under its sloping roof—we cross to the Roya Minitary AcADEMY, whose castellated mansion was designed by Sir Jeffrey Wyattville (1805), and cost £150,000. It generally contains 200 cadets, who are instructed by able professors in all that appertains to “the service of the Artillery, and the office of Engineers.” The expense is proportioned to the rank of the parents if they are in the army; if not, the annual payment is £125. Its mathematical masters have always been men of eminence; among whom we read of Simpson, Hutton, and Gregory. “The hall of the academy looks like a piece of middle-age domestic architecture, though the whole pile was only erected in 1805 (the former academy being too small); it is in exquisite taste, of perfectly noble proportions, with richly-stained glass windows, has various suits of complete armour mounted high on the walls, and among the minor effects are some very pleasing and artistic ones, such as the continuous line of ornament along the walls, formed by the belts of the cadets hung closely together, and the lion-heads formed in the recesses on both sides the centre of the hall, by weapons of war. The origin of the academy may be said to be a small school which existed in the neighbouring village of Charlton before the year 1719, and which has oradually expanded into the institution we have described.”— (Kivight.) We recross the Common towards the east, and pass the long- WOOLWICH ARSENAL. 33 extended range of the Royan ArtinLERY Barracks (for horse and foot), capable of accommodating nearly 4000 men. The whole front is 1200 feet in length, but is relieved by the varying lines of roof, and the two central cupolas. The parade in front, nearly a mile long, presents a brilliant spectacle on a field-day. Five remarkable pieces of ordnance are stationed here ; the cen- tral piece, an immense brass gun, was taken at Bhurtpore. Passing the Royal Ordnance Hospital and the Barracks of the Sappers and Miners, we come at length to the ARs—ENAL—the only one in Great Britain, until Cannock Chase shall be able to com- pete with it. .It was established in 1716. Previous to that date a royal foundry, for casting brass cannon, had existed in Moor- fields. In that year, some of the cannon captured from the French by Marlborough were ordered to be recast, and many officers and persons of distinction assembled to witness the pro- cess. Among the crowd was a young German gunmaker, named Andrew Schalch, travelling to improve himself in his craft, who noticed, what the artizans employed either neglected or over- looked, a moisture in the moulds, calculated to produce an instan- taneous formation of steam, and as its consequence an explosion. He warned the bystanders of the danger, and sent a message to the Duke of Richmond, then Master-General of the Ordnance. As no attention was paid to his remonstrance, he immediately left the grounds with his friends ; and shortly afterwards, as he had foreseen, the explosion took place, killing many of the work- men, disabling others, and inflicting serious damage upon the building. The authorities, with unusual promptitude, advertised for “ the young foreigner ;” found him ; offered him the super- intendence of a new foundry, and desired him to select a suit- able spot in the neighbourhood of London for its establishment. Schalch chose the Warren at Woolwich. It was not exposed to hostile attack ; enjoyed the advantages of river-communication ; was near, but not too near, the metropolis ; and surrounded by an open country. Vanbrugh designed the buildings, and Schalch, having given additional proofs of his skill by casting some excel- lent ordnance, was appointed Master-Founder. He held the office until his death, in 1776, aged 90. The immense stores, and the vast quantity of war-matériel here accumulated, cannot fail to astonish and bewilder the visi- tor. Shot, shells, rockets, and fusees ; gun-carriages, guns, gun- powder; cartridges, fireworks, and percussion-caps, are piled up D 34 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. in such enormous quantities as almost to justify his suspicion that they can never be exhausted! There are three principal depart- ments of the Arsenal—the Foundry, the Carriage-factory, and the Laboratory ; to which, perhaps, should now be added the works devoted to the construction of the Armstrong guns. [Into the buildings, however, visitors are not permitted to enter, unless provided with passes from the authorities at the War Office. ] The FounpRy was erected by Vanbrugh, and contains three furnaces ; one of which will absorb nineteen tons of metal. Here are performed the operations of moulding, casting, boring, turning, and proving guns and howitzers. In the LABoraTory, shells are fitted for their fuzes, and percussion-caps are made by new and beautiful machinery. The preparation of shells, fuzees, seamless cartridges, and fireworks, is also carried on in this department ; but the manufacture of ball cartridges and rockets takes place at the eastern extremity of the Arsenal, under such conditions as may prevent danger from explosion. In the CaR-— RIAGE-FACTORIES, sawing, planing, turning, and dove-tailing, are done by machinery, and the whole are put together by hydraulic power. There are 3000 hands and 300 machines employed. — The PracticE RANGE, where new inventions are tested, and important experiments in the improvement of artillery carried on, under the supervision of a Select Committee, is an exten- sive piece of marshy ground, lying between Woolwich and Plumstead. The CoMPAss OBSERVATORY, a small but important building where the compasses to be used by Her Majesty’s ships are examined and regulated, stands on the borders of the parish of Charlton, at an inconsiderable distance from the dockyard. It is noticeable that the only metal employed in its construction was copper. {Hints ror Rampies.—l. To Erith, by way of Lesnes Abbey, and Abbey Wood. Cross the country southward, to Crayford, and return by Welling and Shooter’s Hill, over Woolwich Common, to Woolwich, about thirteen miles. 2. To Charlton, and across Blackheath, to Lee. Then to Eltham. Cross the country to East Wickham, and return to Woolwich vid Plumstead. 38. From Woolwich to Shooter’s Hill, and thence, by way of Eltham, to Bexley. Through Crayford to Erith. Return by steamboat.—SnHoorer’s Hii has cbtained its name from the shelter afforded by the neighbouring woods to ‘‘ minions of the moon,” in those ‘‘ good old times” when a eounty constabulary was a thing unknown. The prospects from its summit are very grand, especially the view of the mighty London, which Don Juan paused tc gaze upon— BARKING CHURCH. 35 “* A mighty mass of brick, and smoke, and shipping, Dirty and dusky, but as wide as eye Could reach, with here and there a sail just skipping In sight, then lost amid the forestry Of masts ; a wilderness of steeples peeping On tiptoe through their sea-coal canopy ; A huge, dun cupola, like a foolscap crown On a fool’s head—and there is London town! Don Juan had got out on Shooter’s Hill ; Sunset the time, the place the same declivity Which looks along that vale of good and ill Where London streets ferment in full activity ; While everything around was calm and still, Except the creak of wheels, which on their pivot he Heard,—and that bee-like, babbling, busy hum Of cities, that boil over with their scum.” (Byron, Don Juan.) [At the foot of Shooter’s Hill lies the little but picturesque hamlet of Welling, or Well-end, remarkable for nothing but an extremely fanciful etymology, suggested by certain learned Thebans, i.e., that travellers, who had escaped the freedoms of the robbers lurking in this vicinity, here exclaimed their journey was “ well-at-an- end.” To have done so would have been to “holla” before they ‘‘ were out of the wood,” as before they had proceeded much farther they would certainly have had to encounter fresh perils. Probably the name is a trace of a settlement of the Saxon Wealingas. On the summit of the hill(482 feet) stands a triangular tower (45 feet), erected by the widow of Sir William James, to commemorate the capture of the fort of Severn- droog, on the Malabar coast, in 1755.] Once more we resume our river progress. On our left, Barkine CHurRcH claims a word of notice, as, to a certain extent, a relic of the old monastic foundation, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and reputed to be the first nunnery established in England. Bishop Erconwald, of London, founded it about 670, and placed over it his sister Ethelberga, to be “a mother and nurse of devout women.” Here she lived, “ regularly, piously, and orderly, providing for those under her, as was also mani- fested by heavenly miracles ;” and here, too she died, about 676. The abbey was burnt, and many of the nuns slain, in the Danish incursions, 870. King Edgar afterwards rebuilt it, and it flourished amazingly for centuries—to fall beneath the common doom in 1539. “There is scarcely a vestige remaining of the once magnificent pile, which a succession of sovereigns delighted to honour. But at the entrance of the churchyard stands an ancient gateway, over which is: ‘The Chapel of the Holy Rood lofte alte gate, edified to the honour of Almighty God, and of the Holy Rood that is there, of right great devocion, as it sheweth by great indulgens graunted to the same chapel and place by divers of our holy faders, popes of Rome. It is also known as the Curfew Tower ; and from thence the bell rang ont at morn- 36 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. ing and evening, sometimes to the great safety of travellers in winter nights. There are records of gifts to the monastery by many who were guided over the lonely marsh lands through the winter fogs, by the tolling of the curfew alone. In the old time, the roadway between this place and London was singularly dis- agreeable ; the land was only partially drained ; the pathways were bad, and they were constructed on raised embankments, which made them dangerous to travellers in dark nights. The parish church, dedicated to St. Margaret, contains many interesting and valuable monuments—(J/s. 8. C. Hail.) ; On the Kentish side of the river we next arrive at ERiru, whose leafy and undulating woodlands afford a pleasant contrast to the reed-fringed marshes of the Essex shore, and in whose neighbourhood are many joyous Kentish rambles which the tourist will do well to bring himself acquainted with. ERITH [Population, 9800. Inns:—The Pier Hotel, Railway Hotel, etc.] Sheltered by a verdant hill, within hearing of the roll and rush of the river tide, its spire half hidden in luxuriant ivy, its grey walls mossed and dank with age—EritH CHURCH is not un- worthy of a place in the sketcher’s note-book. It was probably founded in the thirteenth century, but received additions at later periods ; and contains examples of Early English, Decorated, and Perpendicular. The most ancient brass commemorates John Aylmer, d. 1405, and his wife... .. A rich altar-tomb, finely carved, with a recumbent effigy, costumed, records the honours of Elizabeth, Countess of Shrewsbury and Pembroke, d. 1568. The monument to Lord Eardley, by Chantrey, cannot be con- sidered a fair specimen of his genius. The Rood Screen is rather ancient, and of good workmanship. Several of the memorials are interesting. It is dedicated to St. John. It was within this venerable fane, in the year following the signature of Magna Charta, that Hubert de Burgh, attended by several of King John’s adherents, met certain leaders of the Barons’ faction, to negotiate upon terms of peace. Weever, the pains-taking author of “Monumenta Anglicana,” was its vicar, temp. James I. The living, in the gift of Lord Wynford, is valued at £600. Erith lays claim to the honour of having been the birthplace ERITH. o¢ of the “ Henrye Grace de Dieu,” which, according to Giustinian, the Venetian ambassador, was launched there, in October 1515, and afterwards warped up the river to Barking. In earlier years it was a haven of considerable importance, and possessed quite a little flotilla of its own. The geologist will find the neighbourhood full of interest An enormous sand-pit, 40 feet deep, lies westward of the village, where ironstone mingled with clay may be detected beneath the ‘sand, and resting on the chalk. Towards Dartford, the chalk quarries will repay a close examination. But the great charm of Erith is its scenery, which has a fresh and peculiar animation, and is especially rich in the characteristics of Kentish landscapes —long green lanes winding through banks of chalk, overtopped with brambles and pollards ; broad green uplands ; clumps of vigorous trees ; and deep shadowy combes where wild flowers are prodigal of bloom. Half-a-mile above Erith lies Brnviperr (Sir Culling Eardley)—so with a reverential adaptation of Tennyson's ring- ing verse— ** We leave the dying ebb that faintly lips The flat red granite ; so, by many a sweep Of meadow smooth from aftermath, we reach The griffin-guarded gates, and pass thro’ all The pillar’d dusk of sounding sycamores ;” ascending through the leafy arcades of the park to the Prospect Tower, which, mounted on the crest of the hill, overlooks a very fine and ample range of river scenery. The house is a large and venerable brick mansion, stately, massive, and old courtier-looking ; richly furnished, and luxu- riously fitted. Its fine gallery of paintings was sold by auctior in June 1860. [Erith has a steam-boat pier, and many of the Gravesend steamers stop there. Distance from London by water, 164m. ; by rail, 14 m. The railway station is south-west of the village, and at some distance from the river-bank. Public pleasure-grounds skirt the river; and in the summer the village is well frequented by visitors ; but the threatened outpouring of the London sewage in its vicinity can exercise no beneficial influence on its rising fortunes. ] 38 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. (Hints FoR RAMBLES.—1, An inland walk—through Crayford and Bexley, to St Paul’s and St. Mary’s Cray. Keep eastward, through a sweep of hill and meadow, to Farningham ; and then to the right, vid Sutton-at-Hone, to Dartford—about> 15m, Return by rail, or by boat, down the river Darent, and keep along the shore to Erith Peir. 2. To Woolwich, by way of Lesnes Abbey. ‘The variety of the scenery along this road is very great, alternating with the beauties of hills, flats, and water. Among the windings of the road, the foliage and uneven ground, witb their grand and massive depths of colour, present you with a picture after the taste of Gaspar Poussin. In a few paces the view changes to an open reach of the Thames, all in breezy motion with vessels ; and Vandevelde thrusts out Poussin ; Vandevelde in his turn gives way to Cuyp, as you come upon the flat sprinkled with cattle, and lighted up with broad beams of sunshine.”—(Felix Swmmerley.) Return across Woolwich Common to Eltham, and thence to Blenden. To Erith, by way of Perry Street and Belvidere—a long day’sramble. 3. Cross the river to Purfleet, and by rail to Tilbury Fort. By steam-ferry to Gravesend. Return by rail, or boat, or, if a stout pedestrian, walk back to Erith—a most enjoyable stroll—through North- fleet, Greenhithe, Dartford, and Crayford—about 10 m.] As we continue our journey down the river we notice to our left, on the Essex shore, the cliffs (sand and chalk) and the lighthouse of PurriEEt (Royal Hotel), and their dull range of powder magazines, removed here from Greenwich, in 1759, as to a less dangerous locale. The roofs are groined; the doors and beams copper-fastened; and visitors on entering within these perilous store-houses have to assume list-shoes for the occasion. Purfleet derives its name from fleot, the trench or . channel by which the marsh drainage is conveyed to the river. The village is a pleasant place, agreeably situate, and affords some fine views, In the season it is a good deal resorted to for fish-dinners, Skirting the Dartford Marshes, we pass from Long Reach into St. Clement’s Reach, where the shore hollows away among thick glossy foliage, and on the brink of a sloping lawn, encircled by a pleasant belt of ancient trees, stands Inaress ABBEY, the residence of the late Alderman Harmer. The house is mainly built of stones removed from Old London Bridge, and has an agreeable aspect from the water. The grounds are finely varied. Ingress was a farm, or grange, belonging to the opulent priory of Dart- ford. Noticeable as a landmark is Stronz Cuurca, lying half a mile inland, upon an elevation which seems considerable when com- GREENHITHE. 39 pared with the low lands we have so recently quitted. The archi- tect was the architect of Westminster Abbey. The details of Early English and Decorated are very beautiful and interesting. Observe the elaborate Early English doorway, quaint but effective, on the north side of the nave; and the marble-moulded pilasters which enrich the chancel. The north chapel (Perpendicular) contains the tomb of its founder, Sir John Wiltshire, d. 1526, and should be carefully examined. There are good brasses to John Lambarde, “rector hujus ecclesie,’ d. 1418; and another rector, John Sore- well, d. 1439. The stately embattled tower was formerly crowned with a lofty spire, which was crumbled into fragments by a storm of lightning, A.D. 1638. GREENHITHE (or the green haven), is a picturesque assemblage of red brick cottages peeping out from an environment of foliage, and contrasting effectively with the neighbouring chalk cliffs. The main street opens out upon a small pier, where steamboat passengers land and embark, and where the lime manufactured from the adjacent chalk-quarries is shipped for London and else- where. Sir John Franklin and Captain Crozier sailed from hence in the “ Erebus” and “ Terror,” on their last and fatal expedition, June 19th, 1845. The leafy wood stretching far away inland is that of Swanscombe. As we pass out of St. Clement’s Reach into the North Hope, we observe, on the left bank, the straggling village of Gray’s THURROCK, and its lonely church—standing close to the Thames. The marshes are protected from overflow by the embankments raised in “the old times” by the Romans, or the Britons under Roman direction. These fenny levels remind the spectator of Dutch landscapes; their ditches, their stunted pollards, their gloomy willows, and browzing cattle, seem to have been trans- ported from the canvas of Cuyp or Hobbima. The church is a moderately ancient building, with a square buttressed tower. It stands, surrounded by trees, at some distance from the village, which is mainly supported by the brick yards in its vicinity. Rearward rise the towers of the modern Gothic mansion of BreLMont CastTLE, the seat of R. Webb, Esq. This part of the river is known as FIDDLER’s Reacu. Tradition asserts that three fiddlers were once drowned here; but the name is probably due to that peculiar restlessness of the water which is nautically termed “fiddling.” Both banks have now assumed an interesting character. On our right, we see the chalk quarries and 40 TO GRAVESEND BY RIVER. docks of NoRTHFLEET, and the long range of almshouses known as Huaa@ins’ Cottece, founded by John Huggins, Esq., of Sitting- bourne, for forty decayed tradesmen, each being provided with a separate dwelling.* The tall, slender spire of the College Chapel is noticeable from the river. “If we could envy any living man, it would be the founder of such a true, high, and holy charity. He did not wait, as many do, until he had ‘ shuffled off his mortal coil,” and then leave to his executors the task he has so happily accomplished ; he felt it a privilege to do himself the work so emphatically ‘his own, and has thus raised a monument to his memory better than any ever built by human hands.’—(U/frs. S. C. Hall.) The position of Northfleet is very pleasant, and commands some extensive views of the Thames and the Essex shore. The village is now a populous one,—its inhabitants obtaining employ- ment in the chalk quarries, or the large ship-building yard of the Messrs. Pitcher, whose dock will hold eight to ten ships of moderate tonnage. Flints, dug out of the chalk-pits, are in request for the potteries of Staffordshire, and even of China. The geolo- gist will obtain numerous fossils in this neighbourhood ; especially glosso-petree, echinites, xanthidium, and belemnites. For the ~ botanist, also, there is ample occupation. NorRTHFLEET CHURCH is one of the largest in the diocese of Rochester. The tower has been partly rebuilt ; it was formerly so often attacked by sea-rovers and river-pirates that the priests strengthened it into a small fortress. A flight of steps leads from the basement to the first storey. The ancient oaken stalls and pulpit are curious, and the brasses to Peter de Lacy, rector, d. 1375, William Lye, d. 1391, Thomas Brato, d. 1511, and his wife, are very good. ‘There are two other brasses, of which the inscriptions are illegible. In the churchyard a wonderful pyra- midical mausoleum—with relievos, on two sides, of: ‘ Huggins’ College’—has been erected by Mr. Huggins, for himself and family. The vicarage of Northfleet (pop. 4130), in the gift of the crown, is valued at £400 yearly. Between Gravesend and Northfleet lies the comparatively recent hamlet of ROSHERVILLE, owing its existence to the enterprise of G. Rosher, Esq., the lord of the manor. The church, a new and elegant building, is dedicated to St. Mark, and the perpetual * The sum of £1 weekly is allowed to each resident, with the privi- lege of having, besides his wife, one femule relative to live with him. GRAVESEND. Al curacy is in the gift of Mr. Rosher. Many neat, and some hand- some villas are here scattered about the cliffs, and in terraces along the wooded slopes. The Pier is really a goodly one, and the Hotel in size is worthy of Brighton or Hastings. Every Londoner, moreover, knows the merits of ROSHERVILLE GARDENS, —long the scene of Mr. Baron Nathan’s glory,—and the cool shadowy retreats afforded by the leafy hollows and ferny basins in its cliffs, which in some places are 150 feet high. There are few pleasanter pleasure-grounds within an hour’s ride of London. GRAVESEND. (Population, 23,302.—Hotels: Clarendon, Falcon, Old Falcon, Rosherville.] From London, by road 24 m., by water 30 m., by rail 24 m. ; from Dartford, 7 m. A range of houses and taverns along the river bank—a long dull line of shops and villas, chapels and churches, in continua- tion of the London and Rochester Road, and almost parallel with the river,—precipitous streets which rise from the river towards Windimill Hill, where they meet as at a central point—narrow alleys of wooden houses—clusters of glittering white pseudo- cottages, in little belts of garden—an atmosphere redolent of shrimps and sailors,—such is GRAVESEND, once the El Dorado of London cockneys, and still a popular place of resort in the summer season. Though, of late years, much improved,—though its streets are mostly clean and well lighted,—though there are some rows of goodly houses, some excellent shops, and a bountiful market, it presents little to interest the tourist. But the life and change of the abundant river, and the exquisite scenery which encircles the town, when taken in connection with the speed and cheapness of its metropolitan communications, will always ensure it a certain popularity. There are four piers, the one belonging to the corporation, and called the Town Pisr, is built upon cast-iron arches. It was designed by a Mr. Clark, and erected in 1834 ata cost of £25,000. The Terrace Pier was built about 1840, for the Star Steam Packet Company, by Messrs, Fox and Henderson, but is now the property of the London and Southend Railway Company. The former is 127 feet long, and 48 feet wide, and its transverse head T 76 feet long by 30 feet wide. The latter, supported on 42 GRAVESEND. iron columns, is 190 feet in length, and 36 feet in width. Both are roofed over, and afford agreeable promenades. Landing at the Town Pier we ascend the High Street, the principal commercial thoroughfare of the town. We pass on our right, a turning named West Street, which leads to the Clifton Baths, Rosherville, and Northfleet, and has been the locality of some extensive conflagrations. The street on our left is the nearest route to the Terrace Pier and Milton. About midway up the High Street, on our left, stands the Town Hatt and MARKET, erected in 1836. Its massive Doric portico, with figures of Wisdom, Truth, and Justice, is too heavy for the narrow street which it overlooks. We soon find ourselves in the London Main Road—once alive with stage-coaches and post-chaises, vans, waggons, and strollers, but now fallen from its high estate into a dull but well-kept highway—and turning to the right, onward to the more ancient portion of Gravesend, observe the ParisH CHURCH, erected on the site of an ancient edifice, destroyed by fire in 1727. It was one of the fifty churches founded by George IL, and in compli- ment to its founder, is dedicated to St. George—a heavy, un- interesting building of brick, with stone dressings, which need not delay the tourist. The living is a rectory, in the gift of the Lord Chancellor, valued at £307 per annum. The street in continuation of High Street runs up to Wind- mill Hill. A turning out of it, to the right, leads to the railway station of the North Kent line, and to a new neat church dedi- cated to St. James, built in 1852. A short stroll brings us within the boundaries of the parish of Milton. Here, at the intersection of three roads, stands an elegant Early English Church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and built about fifteen years ago. The perpetual curacy is valued at £150, and alternately presented to by the Crown and the see of Rochester. If we were now to follow the high road, we should in due time arive at Milton Church ; or if we turned to our right, should climb by a once-pretty lane to Windmill Hill ; but for the present we shall descend to the river-side, where the eaithworks designed to assist Tilbury Fort in obstructing the passage of an enemy’s force, attract our notice. ‘They were con- structed on Vauban’s system, in the reign of Charles Il Ina house adjoining them resided James II., while Duke of York and > THAMES AND MEDWAY CANAL. 43 Admiral of England. The gateway is still extant, but enclosed by a modern porch. It bears the date of 1665, an anchor, and over it a semi-sphere. Leaving the Custom House in our rear, we proceed along the river-bank—pleasant enough at high water—to the basin of the Thames and Medway Canal, which was opened in 1814 as far as Rochester, but proving commercially unsuccessful, was purchased by the North Kent Railway Company. The railway now runs in a tunnel along a considerable portion of its bed. Crossing some fertile meadows, we regain the Great Dover Road at Mitton CuuRcH, a fine old building, chiefly late Decorated in style, which is supposed to have been erected by the wife of Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, temp. Edward II. The stone sedilia and the ancient corbels deserve examination. On the outer wall observe a curious dial. ‘The living, a rectory, valued at £359 yearly, is in the gift of the Lord Chancellor and the Bishop of Rochester, the latter having every third presenta- tion. Near the Parsonage House, a few ivy-covered walls indicate the site of achantry, founded by Aymer de Valence, and dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary and Sts. Peter and Paul. Again we cross some goodly corn-fields and smiling meadows, and gaining the higher ground, now pause to look upon the scene beneath us. To the right runs the broad stream of the Thames, gradually widening into a considerable estuary ; its waters are busy with “things of life ”—-stately screw-steamers, gliding along with wonderful celerity and apparent ease—huge East Indiamen, their white canvas filled with the strong fresh breeze—black, brown, and many-coloured tugs, darting in and out of the shipping, as if bitten by some nautical tarantula— fishing-boats tacking across from bank to bank—and a bright yacht or two, sweeping up or down the river with graceful light- ness. Just beneath us lies Milton and its gray old church. Farther eastward the high road winds past the little village and ancient fane of Chalk. In the distance, seemingly jutting out into the river, rises the glittering promontory of Cliffe. The level of Essex, doted with churches and farmsteads, we survey as in a map, until our gaze rests upon the formidable bastions of Tilbury Fort. Here Gravesend straggles down the slopes towards the river, and there it stretches away to and mingles with Rosherville and Northfleet. On our left, and close at 44 GRAVESEND. hand, the summit of Windmill Hill peers, with difficulty, above the streets and terraces of houses with which its acclivity is covered. 'Thither we bend our steps, and as we gain the ridge, our eye, delighted, scans the landscape which spreads to the south—to Ifield, and Cobham, and Southfleet—gleaming with ample meadows, rich in bowery hollows, and crowned by many a pleasant farm and sequestered church. We do not tarry long upon Windmill Hill, which has lost much of its glory since the builder loaded its sides with brick and mortar. The camera obscura, and the drinking-booth, and the swings, and the donkeys, and the new bazaar, and the target-shooting, have little attraction for us, and, when we have gazed enough upon the beautiful panorama which shines around, we descend the hill into Paddock Street, regain the Dover Road, and turn down the broad thoroughfare named after Alderman Harmer. At the bottom, on the right hand, stands an imposing and somewhat pretentious building, with an “elegant Jonic portico,” which is, we believe, at once the Assembly Room, Public Hall, Concert Room, and Literary Institute of Graves- end. Let us go down to the Terrace Pier. From the proper official we there procure a day-ticket, price 2d., which admits us to the Royal Terrace Gardens. Their area is limited, but plea- santly laid out. Having admired their bright parterres of flowers and winding paths, we select a seat on the Esplanade, commanding a view of the river and the opposite shore, and amuse ourselves with recalling something of the history of this “ancient and most fish-like ” town. It is the first port on the river—on the mighty, world- famous Thames—and was a hythe or landing-place when the Norman commissioners wrote down its value and “ belongings ” in the Doomsday roll. As English prosperity advanced, and the river-traffic increased, a town gradually clustered at the foot of the hill, and about the Aythe, and waxed into some importance. It was burnt by the French in 1377, but soon sprung from its ashes, and in 1573 obtained a charter of incorporation from Queen Elizabeth, as well as her confirmation of the right, first conferred upon the town by Richard IIL, of regulating “the Long Ferry” (or passage to London), and exacting a fee from “the barges, tilt-boats, light-horsemen (hobellers), and wherries,” which formed this communication. Here the outward-bound GRAVESEND. 45 vessels took in their sea-stores. Here assembled the flotillas of the early adventurers—of Sebastian Cabot (1516), and Martin Frobisher (1576-7) ; and the ships equipped by the merchants of London, by many knights and many nobles, to contend with the Armada (1588). From Gravesend Baffin sailed, in 1616 ; Ross, in 1818; and Parry, in 1819, to explore the dreary wastes of ice and snow which surround the Pole. Here the Lord Mayor and aldermen, and the city guilds, were wont to greet all illus- trious visiters who approached the metropolis by water, and ac- company them thither with magnificent ceremonials, “ scarcely rivalled in gorgeousness by the world-famous weddings of the Adriatic.” And here, at the present day, assemble fleet upon fleet of noble vessels, bound for every port, under every clime, where Commerce has hoisted her peaceful flag ; and here, too, weeping relatives and sorrowful friends whisper their broken farewells to the adventurers who crowd the busy decks of the emigrant-ship. The introduction of the river-steamers gave a rapid impetus to the prosperity of the town, and the development of railway communication still further increased its crowds of holiday visiters. They come now in thousands to enjoy “tea and shrimps at 9d. per head,” to stare through telescopes on Wind- mill Hill, to regale on strawberries and watercresses at Spring Head—* a pleasant place in a pleasant locality”—and finally, to participate in the amusements of Rosherville. A return- ticket from Fenchurch Street is but 1s. 6d.; from London Bridge, but 2s. 6d.; and the fares by boat are equally mode- rate. No wonder that a quarter of a million of pleasure-seekers have poured into Gravesend in a single summer month! Here are its decennial statistics of population :—In 1801, 4539 ; in 1831, 9445 ; in 1841, 15,670 ; in 1851, 16,633. The Thames at this point is nearly 2 m. in width, and its depth at low water is about 48 feet. It broadens rapidly, however, below Higham—where certain wiseacres have placed the passage of the river by Aulus Plautius, ap. 43—and forms the reach named “ Lower Hope.” At Hope Point stands a small battery. Thames water is salt at Gravesend, but dark and turbid. It possesses a singular power of self-purification through its very foulness, which induces a fermentative action. Hence for long voyages it is preferred on board ships to pure spring water. The jurisdiction, so to speak, of the river-pilots extends from 46 GRAVESEND. Gravesend to the Docks. There is always a large number of outward-bound and homeward-bound vessels assembled here, or getting under weigh, and the almost hourly passage of some huge steamer from or to France and Scotland renders the scene sufficiently animated and interesting. To Titpury Fort a steam-ferry has been established. The pier belongs to the London and Tilbury Railway, which has a station adjacent for the Gravesend traffic. The present fort is pentagonal in form, strengthened by outworks and ditches, and altogether a much more formidable stronghold than is generally imagined, The whole of the surrounding level can be laid under water. The bastions are, it is said, the largest in Eng- land, and the ramparts are mounted with very heavy guns. It was constructed in 1687, after the Dutch invasion of the Thames, from the designs of Sir Bernard de Gomme, the Engineer-General. A conspicuous feature is the great stone gateway, which originally cost £634. A fort was first erected at this point after the country had been alarmed into a sense of its insecurity by the Spanish Armada. “As it was given out,” says Hakluyt, “that the enemy meant to invade the Thames against Gravesend, a mighty army encamped there ; and on both sides of the river fortifica- tions were erected, according to the prescription of Frederick Gerebelli, an Italian ; and there were certain ships brought to make a bridge, though it were very late first.” The work, how- ever, was but badly done, for when the Earl of Leicester visited the place, July 23d, 1588, he “did peruse the fort (at Graves- end), and find not one platform to bear any ordnance, neither on the ground nor aloft,’ and that at Tilbury was “farther out of order than the other.” By great exertions the forts were put in order, and a chain of vesseis disposed across the river. The army encamped near West Tilbury Church, and were remeyred by “ great Gloriana” in splendid state. Near East Tilbury,* in a chalk-pit, are some curious caverns {as at Dartford and other places), approached by narrow circular passages, and divided into numerous chambers. They are popu- larly called “ Danes’ Holes,” and were constructed, perhaps, by Saxon peasants to shelter their families from the ravages of the dreaded Norsemen, whose fatal flags so often swept up the river. * In this neighbourhood De Foe established a manufactory of pantiles, which was not successful in its results ; he lost £3000 by it. COBHAM HALL, NEAR GRAVESEND. 47 [Hints FoR RAmMBiERs.—l. Cross the Salt Marshes by the narrow causeway to Cliffe. Hence to Cowling. Return to Higham, and vid Upper Higham to Merston. Cross to Gad’s Hill, and back to Gravesend, by way of Shorne and Chalk: about 15 miles. 2. By way of Mount Pleasant to Ifield, and continue, S.E., to Cobham Hall. “There can be no pleasanter ramble than the few miles down green lanes to Cob- ham Hall. The views of the Thames, and the variety of hill, dale, wood, and water, which meet the eye on all sides, make the road between Gravesend and Cobham one of the pleasantest in England.”—(Mrs. S. C. Hall.) Proceed from Cobham, 5 miles, after refreshing one’s self at Mr. Tupman’s hostel, ‘‘ The Leather Bottle,” by way of Three Crouches, to Stroud, 8 miles, and so to Rochester, 1 mile, Visit the Castle and Cathedral, and the Lines at Chatham. Return by rail. 8. Take the south road to Nutsted and Meopham. Cross through Hanley to Longfield, and thence, vid Southfleet and Perry Street, into Gravesend: about 11 miles. 4. To Northfleet and Greenhithe. Thence to Stone. Visit Dartford, and return by the old Roman road, through Swanscombe Wood, to Spring Head. Back to Gravesend. In all, 15 m.] EXCURSION FROM GRAVESEND TO COBHAM HALL. [From Gravesend, 5 m.; from Rochester, via Three Crouches, 4 m.] ‘A Tudor-chimnied bulk Of mellow brickwork on an isle of bowers.” —TENNYsSoN. Axsovut equidistant between Rochester and Gravesend, in the bosom of a venerable wood, and immediately in the centre of a noble park, stands Cobham Hall. You will wonder when you reach it that so picturesque an Elizabethan mansion—and you will marvel as you go—that such leafy lanes should be found in the vicinity of a town which is always dusty, and whose highways are eternally white with blinding chalk. There is something singularly calm, and cool, and silent, about Cobham Hall, perhaps from its contrast to the Gravesend inns and pensions. The foliage always, to our eyes at least, seems greener than in any other of the Cockneyfield localities. The birds are ever on the wing, ever pouring from their full hearts a throbbing tide of song. The very primroses acquire an additional charm; and the restless rooks, always a mystery to us with their endless gyrations and singular wheeling flight, are welcomed as the fitting guardians of the glo. rious scene. The walk from Rochester to Cobham has been immortalized in the pages of the Pickwick Papers, as undertaken on a memorable occasion by Mr. Winkle, Mr. Snodgrass, and their “ illustrious guide, philosopher, and friend.” “A delightful walk it was,” says 48 COBHAM HALL. their historian, “for it was a pleasant afternoon in June, and their way lay through a deep and shady wood, cooled by the light wind which gently rustled the thick foliage, and enlivened by the songs of the birds that perched upon the boughs. The ivy and the moss crept in thick clusters over the old trees, and the soft green turf overspread the ground like a silkenmat. They emerged upon an open park, with an ancient hall, displaying the quaint and picturesque architecture of Elizabeth’s time. Long vistas of stately oaks and elm trees appeared on every side ; large herds of deer were cropping the fresh grass; and occasionally a startled hare scoured along the ground with the speed of the shadows thrown by the light clouds which sweep across a sunny landscape, like a passing breath of summer.”—(Dickens.) A summer day in Cobham Park is, indeed, “ a joy for ever,”— a day to be marked in the heart’s calendar of happy days with a white stone—a day whereon the soul gathers all sweetest fancies and purest thoughts, to be its food in the dark hours that must come, when the eye shall grow dead to beauty, and the ear deaf to music—a day, when casting off our worldliness, we feel some- what of the divinity within us, and recognize the golden chain that links us to the infinite—a day which is full of light, and love, and life, of the light of woodland and upland, of the love of poetry and truth, of the life of the unfading and unchanging nature! Under an arching roof of frondent boughs, interlaced in rich luxuriant growth; upon a turf of exquisite smoothness, dappled with many-coloured blossoms, and within hearing of a ceaseless hum of insects and song of birds ; surely you may wan- der for hours “in measureless content.” Note, as you pass along, the dappled deer, and the swift herons, and the monarch trees. Here is a chestnut, 32 feet in girth, which flings out from its trunk four stalwart branches, and hence rejoices in the appel- lation of “The Four Sisters.” Yonder stretches:a four-fold avenue of fragrant lime-trees. All around you spring the noble cedar, the “ silver birch,” the mighty oak, the fresh young pine. And think not your walk will be along a monotonous level, for the park (7 miles in circumference, and covering an area of 1800 acres) includes in its ample circuit all the sweet variety of slop- ing lawn and undulating hill, of shadowy dell and dark cool copse. Here you are lost, as it were, in the darkness of the densest foliage; there, a noble vista opens through the trees, bounded only by the blue and distant heaven. COBHAM PARK. _ 49 The Haut stands almost in the centre of the Park, in a seques- tered hollow, from which on every side ascend the wooded hills, and many a noble avenue radiates towards it ; so that the traveller, from whatever quarter he approaches, still finds in this pictu tesque mansion the termination of his road. Two extensive wings of red brick, with lofty turrets at their angles and in the centre, bearing the dates of the foundation, 1582 and 1594—with mul- lioned windows, ornamented doorways, and strangely covered cor- nices—represent in their picturesque lines and quaint details the later Tudor style. These are connected by a central Italian build- ing, designed by Inigo Jones. Nevertheless, this inconsistency does not detract from the picturesque appearance of the Hall, but even heightens, perhaps increases it; and the deep colouring of the red bricks, the bold outlines of the gables, the singularly- fashioned chimney-shafts, the shifting lights and shades of the numerous bay windows, produce a remarkable and fantastic effect. The wings and the south front were built by Sir William Brooke, Lord Cobham; the centre by the Earl of Lennox, towards the close of the reign of James I. The stranger is ushered into Cobham Hall through a vaulted PassaGe, designed after the monastic fashion by James Wyatt, and liberally adorned with the scutcheon of the Cobhams. Ob- serve here a magnificent bath of red Egyptian granite. He next enters the Dininc-HALL, or great dining-room, where the panel- led walls and ceiling, and the grotesquely carved chimney- piece of black and white marble, will demand his admiring exa- mination. ‘The Music-Room contains a chimney-piece of purest marble, with a fine imitation of Guido’s Aurora, sculptured by the elder Westmacott; a superbly gilded ceiling, designed by Inigo Jones ; and one picture, a matchless Vandyke, representing Lords John and Bernard Stuart, sons of the Duke of Lennox. Then there are the VESTIBULE, thronged with costly vases; the LIBRARY, with portraits of English poets, statesmen, and philoso- phers, of which the most noticeable, and the only genuine one, is that of Sir Philip Sidney ; the Porrrarr Gatiery, and chiefest and most beautiful, the ProrurE GALLERY (136 feet long and 24 feet wide)—a superb collection of veritable masterpieces. We class its most interesting ornaments under the names of the dif- ferent artists whose genius they illustrate :— ]I. AuBano (1578-1600) :—Mercury and Apollo, with the flock of Admetus; the gods looking down from above. The figure of Apollo especially good. E 50 COBHAM PARK. II. ANNIBALE CARACcI (1560-1609) :—*Venus making her toilet (figures in a land- scape). III. N. Caravacaio (1569-1609) :—Esau selling his birthright. IV. Caro Douce :—The Virgin presenting the portrait of St. Dominic to the Superiors of a Convent. V. Domrinico Fret1:—A Family group—one making lace, another knitting. A good specimen of the Bolognese school. VI. Marc Antonio FrAnescrnt: The Magdalen reading from a Scroll. (As- cribed in the catalogue to Nicolo Regnari.) VII. Groreione (1478-1510) :—Cesar receiving the head of Pompey; and Milo thrown to the lions. The latter is certainly not a genuine Giorgione. VIII. Luca GiorDANno (1632-1705) : Adoration of the Shepherds. Fine in colour- ing and conception. IX. GAINSBOROUGH :— A fine portrait of a lady, name unknown, ‘‘of great clearness and delicacy of colouring ;” and Miss M‘Gill, daughter of the first Harl of Darnley, afterwards Countess of Clanwilliam. (Compare Sir Joshua Reynolds’ portrait of the same lady.) X. Mark Garrarp:—A curious whole length of Queen Elizabeth, richly dressed, and wearing a coronet and necklace of pearls. XJ. GuERCINO (1590-1666) :—His own portrait ; a Sibyl. XII. Janet (16th century) :—Mary Queen of Scots, dressed in a rich black velvet, with a crucifix in her right hand, and a book in her left. The words, ‘‘ Aula Fod- ringhamy,” and a sketch of her execution, are painted underneath ; Duc d’Alengon, son of Henry II. of France, in a suit of white silks. XIII. JoRDAENS (1594-1678) :—A girl feeding a parrot ; an old man looking on. XIV. Sik GoprrEY KNELLER:—Queen Anne; Theodosia Hyde, Countess of Darnley, and daughter of the Harl of Clarendon; Mary of Modena, Queen of James II. XV. Lesrun (1619-90) :—The Battle of the Centaurs and Lapithe; an “ excel- lent and remarkable picture.” XVI. Sir Peter Lety :—Dorothea Sidney, Countess of Sunderland—the Sac- charissa of the poet Waller. [There are two portraits of this distinguished beauty (by Vandyke and Hoskins) at Penshurst. } XVII. NicoLto Poussin (1594-1665) :—The Flight of Pyrrhus ; Bacchanalian Chil- dren, a sketch; Cupid kissing a Nymph, while Cupid brings fruit ; a Nymph carried by a Satyr. XVIII. Str JosHua Reynoxips :—Lady Frances Cole, with a dog— “one of his finest pictures. The landscape of the background is one of the finest specimens of his skill that I know”—(Waagen) ; Mrs. Monk, Countess of Clanwilliam, admirable in expression and colouring; and the Call of the Infant Samuel]—the well-known picture, engraved as “‘ Speak, Lord, thy servant heareth !” - XIX. Gurpo REnI (1575-1642) :—Massacre of the Innocents, a repetition of the famous picture painted for the church of St. Dominichino at Bologna; Liberality and Modesty, and between them Love or Cupid—‘‘finely drawn and coloured ;” Salome, the daughter of Herodias, carrying the head of John the Baptist; St. Fran- cis; and Head cf the Penitent Magdalen—very beautiful. XX. Satvaror Rosa (1615-73):—The Death of Regulus—a horrible subject, powerfully treated ; Pythagoras addressing the fishes, ‘‘takes a distinguished posi- tion among the historical pictures by this master, for the happy arrangement and the characteristic nature of the heads. If the colouring of his figures be deficient in truth, as is usually the case, it is nevertheless of great power, and the execution par- ticularly spirited "—(Waagen) ; Jason Charming the Dragon—a favourite subject of this master’s; and the Birth of Orion. COBHAM PARK PICTURE GALLERY. 51 XXI. Perer Paut Rusens (1577-1640) :—Queen Tomyris dipping the head of Cyrus into a vessel of human blood—*‘ A splendid specimen of the peculiar manner in which Rubens treated such a subject”—(Waagen); Children blowing Soap-bubbles ; A Wild Boar Hunt; Attack upon two lions by three hunters; Jupiter resigns the world to Venus and Cupid, a sketch; and Henri Quatre’s triumphal entry after the victory of Ivry, a sketch, vigorous and animated. XXII. Franz Snypers (1574-1671) :—A Stag Hunt, ‘‘spirited and admirable ”— (Waagen); The Hare and Tortoise in a landscape; and Heads of Stags. XXIII. AnprEA ScHiavone :—A Flagellation. [Ascribed by some, but on in- sufficient grounds, to Titian. ] XXIV. GIovANNI SASSOFERRATO :—The ea praying—‘‘ of warm tone and careful finish "—(Waagen.) ’ XXYV. BartToLoMeEo ScHIDONE :—The Transfiguration. XXVI. Trrrorerto (1512-94) :—* Juno and the Infant Hercules; and the Forma- tion of the Milky Way. j XXVII. Trrtan (1480-1576) :—*The Rape of Europa—“ the equally spiritéd and broad treatment bespeaks the later time of the master, in which we detect, in some respects, the influence of Paul Veronese ”—(Waagen) ; Venus and Adonis; A Christ, half-length—‘‘ of noble character” —(Waagen); Portrait of a Male; Portrait of Ariosto ; Danaé and the Shower of Gold; * Venus and Cupid with a looking-glass ; and Portraits of Don Francesco del Mosaico and the painter himself. XXVIII. ALESSANDRO VERONESE :—Diana and Endymion. XXIX. PavuLo VERONESE (1528-1587) :—Four Allegories, in which Cupid appears to be the principal character, entitled, Le Respect, Le Dégéut, L’Amour Heureux, and L’Infidélité—pronounced by Waagen to belong to his best works “‘as respects keeping, drawing, and masterly painting.” XXX. Sir AnrHony VANDYKE (1599-1641) :—Full length of the Duke of Lennox, attired as a shepherd, and holding a crook. The words ‘‘Me firmior amor,” on a rock. Another portrait of the Duke, his hand placed on the head of a large hound 3 Lord Bernard Stuart, d. 1644, and Lord John Stuart, d. 1645, both sons of Esmé, Duke of Lennox. XXXI. RoGER VAN DER WEYDEN :—Portrait of a Lutheran in furred cap and robe. The paintings thus distinguished * were purchased from the famous Orleans Gallery. } Among the curiosities of Cobham is preserved a strange old chariot, popularly supposed to have carried Queen Elizabeth on her visit to Cobham in 1559 ; but its workmanship contradicts the tradition, and cannot, we fear, be ascribed to a remoter date than the reign of William III. The black leather panels are lined with green velvet. Charles I. and his beautiful bride, Henrietta Maria, slept here on their way to London, after their gorgeous nuptials at Canter- bury, and were received with joyous welcome by the villagers, who strewed the roads with “all manner of sweet flowers.” A few years later, and fierce Roundhead troopers were lords of Cobham Hall (1643), which they so thoroughly despoiled that the booty they despatched to London loaded five huge waggons. Of the history of the ancient lords of Cobham, and its present 52 COBHAM. owners, the Earls of Darnley, the tourist will not be displeased to gain a few particulars :— The Cobhams were a family of very ancient origin; and its chiefs were men of mark and opulence, Sheriffs of Kent, and Constables of Rochester Castle. They derived their name from the village—*Cobeham, anciently Cope-ham ;” that is, the settlement on the hill, from the Saxon copt, and ham. So that “this place,” as an old writer says, “ was the cradle or seminary of persons who, in elder ages, were invested in places of as signall and principall a trust or eminence as they could move in, in the © narrow orbe of a particular country.”—(Philipott.) One Henry de Cobeham held an office of repute in the reign of King John. Four gallant gentlemen of this family -accompanied the first Edward on his expedition into Scotland, at the “ successful and auspicious siege of Caerlaverock.” Sir John de Cobham built Rochester Bridge, and founded Cobham College; was sent by Edward the Third ambassador to Rome; and served in the French war, in the first year of Richard IL’s reign, with 3 knights, 105 esquires, 110 men-at-arms, and 110 bowmen, under his banner. This worshipful banneret died in the ninth year of Henry IV., leaving all his fat manors and beeves to his grand-daughter, who is said to have had five husbands. One of them was no less a man than Sir John Oldcastle—honour the memory, reader, of this brave knight !—who joined the sect of the Lollards, or disciples of Wickliffe ; was tried before the Arch- _ bishop of Canterbury, “on the Saturday of the feast of St. Matthew,” 1413, for “the detestable crime of heresy,” found guilty; and, by “the advice and consent of men famous for dis- cretion and wisdom,” condemned to die. They hanged him on “the new gallows” in St. Giles, and afterwards consigned his body to the flames, in order that posterity might reverence the memory of our first great Protestant martyr. By her second husband, Sir Reginald Braybrooke, Lady Joan had issue a daughter, also named Joan, who bestowed herself and her estates upon Sir Thomas Brooke, of Somersetshire, and had ten sons and four daughters. The eldest son, Sir Edward Brooke, was created Baron Cobham, in the twenty-third of Henry VI. Then came Sir George Brooke, second Lord Cobham, a knight of the garter, and governor of Calais; and he was followed by Sir William, who entertained Queen Elizabeth, with admirable splen- _ dour, on her progress through Kent, in 1559. His son, Henry THE COBHAM FAMILY. 53 Lord Cobham, the degenerate scion of a noble race, became impli- cated with Sir Walter Raleigh in the troubles which disturbed the early part of the reign of James I, and bore false witness against that heroic man at his trial in 1603. Raleigh branded him, and justly, as “a base, dishonourable, poor soul!” His treachery, however, availed him little ; for his estates (valued at £7000 per annum) having been confiscated, he lived many years “in great misery and poverty,” and was ultimately reduced to such keen need that often “ he had starved, but for a trencher- scraper, sometime his servant at court, who relieved him with scraps.” Unhappily for himself, he lived until January 1619. “The manor and seat of Cobham Hall, and the rest of Lord Cobham’s lands, were bestowed by James I. upon his kinsman, Ludovick Stuart, Duke of Lennox, whose successor in the title and estates—his brother Esme—received at Cobham Hall King .- Charles and his beautiful bride after their marriage at Canter- bury. Duke Esme was succeeded by his eldest son James, Duke of Lennox, and afterwards of Richmond, who died in 1655. His heir, Esme, Duke of Richmond and Lennox, died in 1660, when only ten years old, and his titles and estates passed to his cousin- german, Charles Stuart, Earl of Litchfield, who, although he was thrice married, left no issue. His sister, the Lady Katherine, consequently became possessed of all the family estates,—except the manor of Cobham, which was sold to defray the debts of the said Charles, Duke of Richmond. Her noble inheritance she brought to her husband, Sir Joseph Williamson, who rendered it complete by purchasing Cobham Manor, and at Cobham Hall he resided until his death,in 1701. It then passed into his widow’s possession, and from her devolved to her son by her first marriage, Edward, Lord Clifton and Cornbury, and on his death, without issue (in 1713), to his sister, Lady Theodosia Hyde. By her marriage with John Bligh, Esq., an Irish gentleman, it passed into the present line. Mr. Bligh, in 1721, was created Lord Clifton, and in 1725, Earl of Darnley. ‘The fifth earl married, in 1825, Emma Jane, third daughter of Sir Henry Parnell, and had issue, the present and sixth earl, born in 1827, the hereditary High Steward of Gravesend and Milton. Me (the fifth earl) died in 1835, through an injury inflicted. by an axe with which he was trimming, we believe, some trees in his plantation. He was a man of cultivated mind and generous character. What more shall we say of Cobham ?—There are fine views 54 COBHAM PARK. to be enjoyed from many points in the Park, especially from the Mausoleum on William’s Hill, which was built by the second earl (in 1783) as a place of sepulture for the family, but has never been consecrated. The structure is octangular, and built - of Portland stone ; in its general effect it is not peculiarly attrac- tive. Along the north side of the Park runs the old Watling Street-way, or Romano-British Road, easily traceable between Shinglewell and Rochester, “with the hedges standing on it, sometimes on the right and sometimes on the left of the present road, and at other times falling in with it.” Near this road, to the west of the Park, rises a pleasant crystal spring, which, from the use made of it by the pilgrims to Thomas 4 Becket’s shrine at Canterbury, is called “St. Thomas’s Well.” [The Park is always accessible to tourists, but the House and Picture Gallery are shewn only on Fridays, and only to visitors who have previously taken the pre- caution of procuring admission-tickets, price 1s. each, at the principal libraries in Gravesend and Rochestcr. The money produced by these tickets is appropriately applied to the benefit of the Cobham Parochial Schools. ] CopHaM CHuRCH, a handsome building, seated upon a gentle ascent at the opening into Cobham village, is dedicated to St. Mary Magdalen, and boasts of a stately tower, a large chancel, and three commodious aisles. The porch-entrance is old and curious. The walls retain some traces of the singular frescoes with which they were once adorned, and the altar-steps are paved with encaustic tiles of great antiquity, and quaint design. The oak-raftered roof, the rich Early English arches, the piscina, the carved stone-sedilia, the numerous brasses, the many rusty helms —all are objects which cannot fail to be suggestive to the spec- tator of historic fancies and poetical associations. The present building, which is partly Perpendicular and partly Decorated, was probably erected by Sir John de Cobham, circa 1360-70. The principal brasses, of unusual interest from the completeness _ of their chronological arrangement, are as follows :-— 1. John de Cobham, Constable of Rochester, habited in a shirt of mail, and girt with a rich belt, which supports his sword. An inscription in French runs round the slab. Date, 1354. 2. Sir Thomas de Cobham, d. 1367. 3. Maude de Cobham, wife to Reginald, Lord Cobham, Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, d. 1370. Observe the reticulated head-dress. 4, Maude de Cobham, date and inscription illegible. COBHAM CHURCH. 55 5. Margaret de Cobham, daughter of the Earl of Devonshire, and wife of John, Lord Cobham, d. 1395. 6. John de Cobham, founder of Cobham College and Church. He is dressed in armour, and holds a church in his hand. Date, 1395-1400. 7. Joan de Cobham, “probably mother of the founder.” An inscription in French is cut round the edge of the stone. 8. Ser Reginald Braybrooke, d. 1405, at Middleburgh, in Flanders. 9. Joan, Lady Cobham, wife of the above, d. 1433. 10. Sir John Broke, d. 1506, and Margaret, his wife, d. 1500, lying under a richly ornamented canopy, whose triangular compartments contain circles with shields, one of which bears the Saviour’s crown of thorns, and the other his “ five wounds ;” while between the pinnacles, in the centre, is a curious repre- sentation of the Trinity, wherein the Deity is delineated with a triple crown, and the Holy Spirit presents a human face. The figure of the knight is gone, but that of his lady remains, and beneath are groups of eight sons and ten daughters, ll. Sir Thomas Broke, d. 1529, with figures of one of his three wives, his seven sons, and five daughters. 12. Sir Ralph or Rauf de Cobham, commemorated by a bust, in a skull-cap and shirt of mail, d. 1402. 13. Joan de Cobham, with figures of her six sons and four daughters, d. 1433. Observe also, the brasses to Welliam Tanner, d. 1418, John Gladwyn, William ..., and John Sprotte, d. 1498, formerly masters of Cobham College. A stately monument of white marble, in the chancel, commemorates Sir George Broke, Lord Cobham, Governor of Calais and K.G., d. 1558, and is orna- -mented with figures of his wife and himself, and their ten sons and four daughters. The living is a vicarage, valued at £391 yearly, in the © patronage of the Earl of Darnley. CospHaM COLLEGE, of which a portion—an ancient gateway— still remains, was founded about 1342, by John, Lord Cobham, and dissolved by Henry VIII. It was rebuilt about 1597-8, as appears from a record preserved among the Cobham muniments, by Sir William Broke, Lord Cobham, who bestowed upon the resusci- tated foundation “all those edifices, ruined buildings, soil and ground, with the appurtenances which sometime belonged to the 56 TO GRAVESEND BY RAIL. late college.” ‘The governors are the warders of Rochester Bridge. It now consists of a quadrangular building of stone, 60 feet by 50, divided into separate almshouses, each of which is occupied by an aged almsman or almswoman. ‘The hall, with its coloured windows, its blackened roof, and oaken screen, is interesting. Before the tourist quits this prettiest of Kentish villages, this leafy and sequestered Cobham, he will do well to “ quaff” a glass of ale to the immortal memory of Mr. Tupman, at the “clean and commodious alehouse,” which, according to his great biographer, Mr. Charles Dickens, he selected as a place of plea- sant retirement from the noisy and unfeeling world. He who would know more of Mr. Tupman, and the reason which in- fluenced him in withdrawing from public life—he who would learn the particulars of the famous archeological discovery made here by Mr. Pickwick, may consult, to his pleasure and profit, the immortal pages in which the adventures of those gentlemen are graphically recorded. From LONDON to GRAVESEND. ¢> From CHarine Cross, WATERLOO, CANNON STREET, or Lonpon BripGE STATIONS. [New Cross, 84 m.; Lewisham, 1}m. (Loop line here); Blackheath, 1m.; Charlton, 2 m.; Woolwich Dockyard, 1 m.; Woolwich Arsenal, 1 m.; Abbey Wood, 2 m.; Erith, 2 m.; Dartford, 8 m.; Greenhithe, 3 m.; Northfleet, 2 m.; Gravesend, 2m. ; = 24m. from London.] ; [Loop Line.—The traveller by this route leaves the main line from London to Dartford, vid Lewisham, on the left after passing St. John’s Station, and at Hithe Green proceeds due east to Ler Station; the trunk line to Dover, vid Sevenoaks, running straight forward to Grove Park. The village of Lee (now rapidly becoming a town), with its four district churches, is situated on the left of the station, In the parish churchyard is buried Halley, the Astronomer Royal, who died in 1741. About a mile farther on is ELtHam SraTion, to the left of which stand the ruins of the old palace sometimes called “King John’s Barn.” Pore Srreet, the next station, is situated just off the main road from London to Maidstone, by way of Farningham and Wrotham. This is the most convenient station for explorers of the places situated on or adjacent to the Cray river. Sr1pcup Sration is next passed, near which is situated Ursula Lodge; and then Brexitey. The church here has a brass and monument to Sir J. Champneys and wife, date 1556. Near Bexley Heath, on the left of the line, is Danson Park. The railway then crosses the Cray river to CRAYFORD Station. In the Cray valley a good deal of labour is employed in calico printing, saw and paper mills. A little farther on this section of the line joins the old route, vid Woolwich and Abbey Wood to Dartford and Maidstone. ] For the convenience of tourists we proceed to sketch the country traversed by the North Kent main line. BLACKHEATH STATION, 57 We are borne along upon an extensive viaduct, through the suburbs of London—squalid alleys and clamorous streets gradu- ally giving place to large market gardens—a tall “forestry of masts,” conspicuous on our left, over houses and church-steeples ; and to our right the Crystal Palace, raising its glittering walls against a background of glossy foliage. We pass the busy station of New Cross, and shortly afterwards reach LewisHam™* (5 m. from London), along irregular village, which lines, for upwards of a mile, the high road to Bromley and Sevenoaks, and is watered by the small river Ravensbourne. It formerly possessed a cell or priory, connected with the Abbey of St. Peter’s at Ghent, to which foundation the manors of Lewisham, Greenwich, and Deptford were given by Eltruda, the fair niece of King Alfred, and the pious wife of Count Baldwin of Flanders. LEWISHAM CHURCH, dedicated to St. Mary, was rebuilt in the pseudo-classical style about 1774-7. Noticeable memorials are those to Dr. Stanhope, a former vicar, d. 1728, who is cha- racterized as “a good Christian, a solid divine, and a fine gentleman ;” and to Mary Lushington, d. 1797—the monument by Flaxman, the inscription by the poet Hayley. The living is a vicarage, valued at £1100, in the gift of the Earl of Dartmouth. [At Southend, a small and pretty hamlet, 2m. from Bromley (formerly famous for a steel-mill), was built a neat chapel in 1848-9. St. Bartholomew’s (Syden- ham), valued at £248, and Christ Church (Forest Hill), valued at £150, are both in this parish, and in the gift of the Earl of Dartmouth. A chapel has been recently erected at Dartmouth Place. ] The FrEE ScHoor is situated on the ascent to Blackheath. It owes its foundation and endowment to the munificence of Abra- ham Colfe, d. 1657, vicar of Lewisham, who, “in the great rebellion was much reverenced by the orthodox party for his religion and learning.” ‘The trust (including an almshouse), is now administered by the Leathersellers’ Company. At Lewisham was born, in 1588, good Brian Duppa, one of King Charles’s chaplains, and successively Bishop of Chichester, Salisbury, and Winchester. At 6 m. from London we reach the BLACKHEATH Station. To the right, and ascended to by a busy and respectable street, stretches the well-known Common—a dry, breezy, tract of open sward, sur- rounded by neat villas, and dotted with clumps of ancient trees, * From Lewes (Saxon, pastures) and ham, (a home or settlement). Population of the parish, 15,064; of the town, 10,563. 58 TO GRAVESEND BY RAIL. A throng of interesting associations seems, spirit-like, to move across it, and before its old historic glories fades away that every- day life of nurses and children, cockney excursionists, and holi- _day-’prentices, to which it is commonly surrendered. Let us shake our historical kaleidoscope, and note its changes. Scene the first :—A dark expanse of wild furze-covered waste, sur- rounded by waters and streaming morasses, save where the firm causeway of the new-made Roman road (Watling Street) runs towards the great Aucusta, already a city of considerable repute. To its borders, at deep night, come the vanquished but now con- tented Britons ; and here they bury their dead, and raise over them the memorial barrow. Scene the second :—(A.D. 13881).— The heath is alive with angry men, armed with clubs, and parti- sans, and pikes, who move swiftly to and fro, and mutter deep curses on their tyrant-rulers. As they sweep onward, like a rolling tide, you may hear them cheer lustily when their fellows raise the cry, “ Wat Smith the Tyler, for ever!” And now, the Princess of Wales, known in the flush of her youthful beauty as the “ Fair Maid of Kent,” widow of the Black Prince, and mother of Richard IL., crosses the Common with her retinue. Our Eng- lish insurgents gather round her. Shall they hold her as a hos- tage ? Mark how her woman’s wit shall prevail over those rough spirits! She entertains them with gracious words; she bribes their leaders with a few pence; and then, through the surging multitudes, rides on triumphant! Scene the third :—(A.D. 1415). —A martial sound of elarions and trumpets, and a great noise of voices! London’s lord mayor and aldermen, and four hundred of its most distinguished citizens, clothed all in scarlet, with hoods of red and white, have assembled to greet a victorious monarch, Henry V., fresh from the red field of Agincourt. ‘¢ How London doth pour out her citizens ! The mayor, and all his brethren, in best sort,— Like to the senators of the antique Rome, With the plebeians swarming at their heels, — Go forth, and fetch their conquering Cesar in !” SHAKSPEARE. Scene the fourth :—(A.D. 1450)—Again a rebel force assembles on Blackheath, and on yonder barrow is planted the banner of their chief, Jack Cade. Behold, they bring before him a miser- able wight, his hands tied behind his back, and his head droop- ing low in mortal fear. “ Who’s there ?” demands their leader, BLACKHEATH COMMON. 59 The clerk of Chatham,” replies Smith the weaver ; “he can write and read, and cast accompt.” “ Cade—O monstrous ! “ Smith—wWe took him a setting of boys’ copies. “ Cade—Here’s a villam! . . . Away with him, I say ; hang him with his pen and inkhorn about his neck.”—(Shakspeare, Henry VI.) Again we shake the kaleidoscope. Scene the jifth:—The heath bristles with armed men ; with 16,000 gallant Cornish miners, who, under Lord Audley, have risen against Henry VIL, and here confront the royal forces, led by the Earl of Oxford, D’Aubigny the great chamberlain, and the king himself. The spot where Michael Joseph, the Bodmin farrier, pitched his tent, was long pointed out, and named by the peasantry, “The Smith’s Forge.” But neither Lord Audley’s skill, nor the courage of farrier Joseph and lawyer Flammock, aided the unfortunate rebels. Two thousand perished on that bloody field, and fifteen hundred were taken prisoners. Again the scene changes :—(A.D. 1519.) A legate has arrived from the Pope of Rome—“a just and learned priest” —Cardinal Campeius ; and here, at Blackheath, he is wel- comed by the Duke of Norfolk, anda great number of prelates, knights, and gentlemen, who conduct him to a “rich tent of cloth of gold,’ and wait upon him while he dons his cardinal’s robes. Scene the seventh:—A cold keen morning in January (the 3d January 1539),and at the foot of Shooter’s Hill, are pitched nume- rous tents and pavilions, wherein blaze odoriferous fires, fed with perfumed woods. Around them, and across the heath, even to the gate of Greenwich Park, the furze and bushes have been cleared away, that the spectators may have a full view of the approaching spectacle. And against the park-palings stand the merchants of Spain, of Genoa, Florence, and Venice, in costly suits of velvet, while the road is lined with wealthy London traders and civic’ dignitaries, “wearing many chains of gold.” About the tents have assembled the chivalryof England—knights and nobles, gor- gecusly apparelled; and behind them, on stout horses, are mounted their retainers, “tall and comely personages, and clean of limb and body.” ‘The clocks of Greenwich chime twelve, as, escorted by a hundred horse, by peers and prelates, knights and squires, down from Shooter’s Hill towards the tents, descends the queen- bride, Anne of Cleves. “ When the king knew,” says the old chronicler, “ that she was arrived. in her tent, he with all dili- gence set out through the park. He was mounted on a goodly 60 TO GRAVESEND BY RAIL. courser, trapped in rich cloth of gold, and apparelled in a coat of purple velvet, made somewhat like a frock, all over embroidered with flat gold of damask, with small lace mixed between, tra- verse-wise, so that little of the ground appeared ; about which garment was a rich guard, very curiously embroidered!” And so, with outward courtesy, but inward disgust, King Henry of Eng- land met his German bride. One more scene, and we relinquish our kaleidoscope. London has sent forth her citizens to welcome the second Charles (May 29th, 1660). The army, headed by the astute Monk, is here drawn up in glittering array to greet the very king whom at Worcester it had so signally overthrown. Exultant cavaliers press forward to gaze upon the Stuart, and salute him with joyous shouts, with scattered flowers, with tears of gladness pouring down their cheeks. Amongst them, but scarcely of them, is a grey- haired knight whose loyalty has been severely tested in the furnace of persecution. His faithful hound crouches by his side. The king recognizes the gallant old cavalier, and addresses him in gracious language. Happy Sir Henry Lee! He has lived to see the Stuart regain his throne, and now his work is done. Well may he be content to die. And the glittering pageant passes on, leaving the dead behind it !* Adjoining Blackheath (S.) stands MorpEn CoLiE@n, founded (about 1695) by Sir John Morden—a rich merchant-prince, who had accumulated a large fortune at Aleppo—for the support of twelve decayed Turkey merchants. Later benefactions have enabled the foundation to extend its advantages to upwards of seventy almsmen, chiefly persons who have been engaged in the Levant trade. The college is a considerable brick building, with two small wings, enclosing a quadrangle. Pleasant grounds encircle it, and there are a chapel .and cemetery adjacent. Over the entrance, observe statues of Sir John, d. 1708, and his lady, d. 1721, who lie buried in a vault within the chapel. Their portraits may be seen in the hall. Each pensioner is allowed £20 per annum, and a convenient apartment, but takes his meals at the common table. Near Trinity Church, a deep cavern, called the Point, pene- trates about 150 feet into the side of the hill. It is divided into four cells, or chambers, hollowed out of the chalk, and connected by narrow passages. A well of clear fresh water has been sunk * Sir Walter Scott’s “‘ Woodstock.” CHARLTON. 61 in the farthest cell. Neither history nor tradition enlighten us upon the origin of this cavern, but it was probably constructed by the Saxon hinds as a hiding-place from their Danish foes. Jn this neighbourhood the botanist will meet with ornitho- podium majus (great bird’s foot), lunaria, cornu cervinum, hare- bells, lady’s mantle, and asperula quinta. , aay ) ly [LEE lies one mile south, on the road to Eltham, and is surrounded by many good houses and some pleasant country. The new Church, dedicated to the Saviour, is neat and unpretending. The old Church, dedicated to St. Margaret, is an ancient but dilapidated structure. Its graveyard contains the dust of Dr. Edward Halley, d. 1741, the famous astronomer, whose name is associated with the great historical comet. Here was buried William Parsons, the comedian, d. 1795 :— ** Here Parsons lies; oft on Life’s busy stage With Nature, reader, hast thou seen him vie ; He science knew, knew manners, knew the age, Respected knew to live—respected die.” The living, a rectory, valued at £464, is in the patronage of the Lord Chancellor. | The next station on the North Kent line is at CHARLTON (population, 9547), “anciently written Ceorle- tone, 2.¢., the settlement of the ceorls, or husbandmen”—(Hasted). It is popularly divided into Old and New Charlton ; the former seated on the hills, and belted round with many leafy landscapes ; the latter lying in the vale which opens upon the river. CHARLTON CHURCH, dedicated to St. Luke, stands at the eastern extremity of the old town, rising clear and distinct against the tich deep background of the Haneina Woop. It was rebuilt, about 1640, by the trustees of Sir Adam Newton, the prudent governor of Prince Henry ; and contains a monument to that worthy and his wife, d. 1629, executed, at a cost of £180, by . Nicholas Stone ;. an ostentatious memorial to Mr. Secretary Craggs, d. 1721, best remembered for his connection with “the South Sea Bubble ;” a figure of a man in complete armour, with the usual accessories, inscribed to Brigadier-General Michael Richards, d. 1721; and a tablet to John Turnpenny, Esq., who “by industry acquired, by economy improved, and with equity dispensed, a considerable fortune among his surviving friends, having twrned many a penny into pounds.” A bust by Chantrey, with an inscription, commemorates the Right Hon. Spencer Percwal, d. 1812, who, while Prime Minister, was assassinated by the madman Bellingham. By a somewhat singular coinci- dence, in a vault in the churchyard are interred the remains of the unfortunate Hdward Drummond, the private secretary of Sir 62 TO GRAVESEND BY RAIL. Robert Peel, for whom he was mistaken by his murderer M‘Naughten. He was a brother of the present rector, the Rev. Arthur Drummond, and a brother-in-law of the lord of Charlton, Sir T. Maryon Wilson. The rectory of Charlton, valued at £600, and the perpetual curacy of the New Church, dedicated to St. Thomas, are both in the patronage of the latter gentleman. CHARLTON Horn Farr is associated by some authorities with a royal intrigue already alluded to (p. 10), while others con- nect it with the winged ox—the well-known symbol of St. Luke, to whom the church is dedicated. Some small fragments of painted glass, which escaped the iconoclastic fury of the Puritans, and may still be examined in the church, would seem to confirm this supposition. They represent the evangelist’s head and shoulders, and portions of his ox, “ bearing goodly horns upon his head.” A third suggestion is advanced by Philipot, who says it was named Horn Fair “by reason of all sorts of winding horns, and cups, and other vessels of horn, there brought to be sold.” “ Horn Fair’—nowa very sedate and orderly holiday, beginning on the festival of St. Luke (October 18), and continuing for three days—was formerly a riotous saturnalia, “ infamous for rudeness and indecency,” which brought together the rakes and thieves of London, and the rustic debauchees of the neighbouring villages. Nicholas Breton’s “ Pasquin’s Nightcap ; or an Antidote for the Headache,” published in 1612, tells us that its frequenters “In comely sorts their foreheads did adorne, With goodly coronets of hardy horne;” And he adds,— “ Long time this solemne custome was observed, And Kentish men with others met t6 feast ; But latter times are from old fashions swerved, And grown repugnant to this good behest ; For now ungrateful men these meetings scorn, And thanklesse prove to Fortune and the Horn, For onely now is kept a poor goose fair, Where none but meaner people do repair.”’ For our own part, we think this “ solemne custom” was “ more honour’d in the breach than the observance.” (To CHARLTON Hovss (Sir T. M. Wilson, Bart.) we shall hereafter introduce the tourist (see Excursus II.); but there are other mansions of historic interest in the vicinity. CHERRY GARDEN FARM was built, it is said, by Inigo Jones, for his own residence. On Maze Hill, near Blackheath, two houses, euphoniously named PLUMSTEAD. 63 “the Bastile,” and the ‘“‘ Minced Pie House,” were erected by Sir John Vanbrugh., Brunswick House, near Greenwich Park, was frequently the residence of Lord Chesterfield, and afterwards of the Duchess of Brunswick. At LyrrLeTon VILLA resided the gallant Wolfe, the hero of Quebec. ] At 9 miles from London, after passing through a considerable tunnel, we reach the WootwicH DockyarpD Station ; and next, the ARSENAL Station. We then traverse the Plumstead Marshes, gradually approaching the river. On our right, about 14 mile distant, lies the village of PLuMsTEAD, upon the Woolwich road. (Population 24,502.) At the east end of the village stands the CHurcH, dedicated to St. Nicholas, an ancient but not particularly handsome struc- ture. In the south wall observe the Early English windows. The graveyard contains numerous tombs to artillery officers; and ' a stone inscribed with the well-known epitaph :— ‘Weep not for me, my parents dear, There is no witness wanted here; The hammer of Death was given to me For eating the cherries off the tree.”’ The living, a vicarage, valued at £701, is in the gift of the in- cumbent, the Rev. W. Acworth. The neighbourhood of Plumstead, especially Shooter’s Hill and Erith, has been celebrated by the poet Bloomfield, whe sometimes retired here for the benefit of his health, which, as he tells us, he was wont to seek— ‘Where, with all his might, The joyous bird his rapture tells, Amidst the half-excluded light That gilds the foxglove’s pendent bells ; Where, cheerly up this bold hill’s side The deep’ning groves triumphant climb ; In groves Delight and Peace abide, - And Wisdom marks the lapse of time. “ O’er eastward uplands, gay or rude, Along to Erith’s ivied spire, I start, with strength and hope renew’d, And cherish life’s rekindling fire. Now measure vales with straining eyes, Now trace the churchyard’s humble names, Or climb brown heaths that abrupt rise, And overlook the winding Thames.” 64 TO GRAVESEND BY RAIL. Assey Woop, 12 miles from London, derives its name from Lesnes ABBEY, which lies south, on the edge of the wood, and about 2 miles from Erith. The word Lesnes (pr. Lesness) is traced by some to the Saxon leswes, pastures; by others, to the Old Kentish lesnesse, signifying forgiveness. Neither ety- mology seems satisfactory. It is the name of the hundred, and of the district attached to the Abbey, which stretched from woodland to water-side, and had its landing-place at Erith, d/rre- hythe, the old haven—(Lambarde). The Abbey was founded and endowed for Augustinian canons in 1178, by Richard de Lucy, Chief Justiciary of England. In the following year, having retired from public life, he sought shelter within its walls. But he lived only a few months ; and before the close of the year was interred in the choir of his new church, with this epitaph upon his stately tomb :— ‘‘ Rapitur in tenebras Ricardus Lux Luciorum, Justicie pacis dilector, et urbis honorum. Christe, sibi requies tecum sit sede tuorum ; Julia tunc orbi lux bis septena notebat, Mille annos c. novem et septuaginta movebat.” Both Abbey and Church were dedicated to St. Mary, and St. Thomas the Martyr—Archbishop a-Becket, who had formerly excommunicated De Lucy, and whose saintship the founder thus endeavoured to propitiate. Various benefactors increased the Abbey’s revenues ; but it never ranked among the wealthier and more powerful of English monastic foundations. Thus it fell an easy prey to Wolsey’s rapacity, in 1524, when he was solicitous to raise an ample en- dowment for his new college at Oxford. Its income, at that date, was returned at £186 :9s. yearly. When the great cardinal was stricken from his “ pride of place,” the abbey-estate reverted to the Crown, was granted to William Brereton, and afterwards to Sir Ralph. Sadler. Through other changes it passed, until it devolved, temp. Charles I., upon Christ’s Hospital, and St. Bar- tholomew’s Hospital, London. The ruins now extant are inconsiderable. The north wall of the refectory, and the boundary wall of the convent garden, may be examined, and the site of the cloister court detected by curious eyes. The present house, Abbey Farm, occupies the site of the ancient monastic grange. DARTFORD 65 At Erira, 14 miles, there is a station. Erith, and its im- mediate neighbourhood, we have already described, pp. 36-38. Traversing some pleasant country, with occasional glimpses of the river on our left, and many fat meadows and well-wooded hills to the right, we reach, 17 miles from London Bridge, the busy town of DARTFORD. [Population, 10,163. Hotels: The Bull, Victoria.] Imagine two steep and abrupt hills, one, to the west, of chalk ; the other, to the east, of a deep sandy loam ; let a swift stream, coming up from the south, run between them, and widen, when beyond their slopes, into a broad tidal creek ; see a firm and well-kept highway descending the western and climbing up the eastern height, skirted on either side by inns, and shops, and private houses, and crossing the stream by a substantial bridge, where, in the old days, existed a ford and ferry ; between the hills and the noble river into which the creek we have spoken of empties its waters, place a wide expanse of marshland, while south of the town shall spread a breezy heath, and a changeful landscape of wood, and upland, and meadow—and you will have pictured to yourself the picturesque position of busy Dartford. The Darent (dwr, Celtic, water; compare Dart, Douro, Adur, Dover, and Durovernum (Canterbury) ‘in whose waters clean Ten thousand fishes play, and deck his pleasant stream,” rises in Westerham Parish, near Squerries Park, ripples onward to Brasted, where it separates into two streams, which are re- united BoRwenn, Chipstead and Riverhead—runs northward by Otford, Shoreham, and Lullingstone, washes the base of Farning- ham Castle, and continues to South Darent; again flows in a two- fold course for about a mile, and receiving, below Dartford, the Cranford, and afterwards the Cray ; broadens into Dartford Creek, and empties itself into the Thames. Its total length is 30 miles. The main street of Dartford is a part of the famous old Dover road, and its numerous inns recall the life and bustle of the days of post-horses, postilions, and stage-coaches. From its right hand side branches off (S.) the road to Farningham, Otford, and Sevenoaks ; on the left, a turning named Water Lane leads to the wharves and mills upon the Creek. The Pack is situated B 66 TO GRAVESEND BY RAIL close to the waterside ; the CHurcH stands near the east end of the High Street, not far from the county bridge. The Darent was simply crossed by a ferry until the reign of Henry VI.; and the fishery of Dartford Creek was at one time of considerable value. Now, the flourishing condition of the town is attributable to its paper and powder mills, which employ a large number of hands. ‘The first paper mill was established by Queen Elizabeth’s jeweller, Sir John Spielman, and was one of the earliest in England ; its site is occupied by a powder mill, while the paper mili near it stands in the place of a mill, founded, in 1590, by Geoffrey Box, of Liege, for cutting iron bars into rods. At that time Dartford contained 182 houses, 4 quays, and 7 ships and boats (three of 3 tons, one of 6, two of 10, and one of 15). Wat Tyler, the hero of the people’s revolt in Richard IL’s reign, was an inhabitant of Dartford ; and it was here that his daughter received the insult which fanned into a flame the smouldering embers of discontent. Hither, in Henry IIL’s days, came the Archbishop of Cologne, on the part of Frederick, Emperor of Germany, to demand in marriage Isabella, the king’s sister ; and the nuptials were solemnized by proxy in this town. A famous tournament was here celebrated by Edward IIL in i331. On Dartford Brent, } mile east, Richard of York en- camped his forces (A.D. 1452), while negotiating with Henry VL., whose army was then at Blackheath ; and, in 1648, it glittered with the pikes and morions of the Puritan soldiers of Fairfax. The Priory of Dartford was founded, in 1355, by Edward IIL, for Augustinian nuns, and dedicated to the Virgin-Saints Mary and Margaret. It speedily received rich endowments, and rose into such repute, that its prioresses were usually ladies of high degree—among whom may be particularised the princess Bridget, youngest daughter of Edward IV. Much noble dust was interred within its sacred walls—the aforesaid princess- prioress ; Lady Joan Scrope, and Lady Margaret Beaumont, both prioresses ; and Catherine, the widow of Sir Maurice Berkeiey At its suppression, its yearly revenues amounted to £380:9:04 —(Dugdale). Henry VIII. converted it into a royal residence for himself, but afterwards granted it to Anne of Cleves. It reverted, on her death, to the Crown, and was exchanged by James I., with Sir Robert Cecil, for his mansion and estate at Theobalds. The Cecils transferred it to Sir Edward Darcy, who died here in 1612 DARTFORD. 67 The mansion, then called “ the Place,” was a brick building of the date of Henry VII., and appears to have been established on a splendid scale; but its only remains are a large gate-house, and a south wing adjoining, which is now occupied as a farm- house. Much of the ancient boundary-wall may still be traced. On the east side of the town stood a CHaAntrRy, dedicated to St. Edmund the Martyr, which was at one time so highly esteemed that the Canterbury pilgrims turned aside to greet it : and the old Watling Street highroad was sometimes named “ St. Edmund’s Way.” Edward III. bestowed it on the Priory, and not a stone of it is now discernible. DartrorD CuHurRcH, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, a stately building, with a tower, three aisles, and north and south chancels. The chancel was restored in the year 1863. The Screen (De- corated) is worthy of careful examination. Observe the monu- ment to Sir John Spielman, d. 1607, with figures of himself and lady kneeling before a desk ; and the brasses to Richard Martyn, d. 14—, and his wife, d. 1402; Captain Arthur Bostocke, d. 1612, his wife and six children ; Agnes Molyng- ton, d. 1454; Thomas Rothele, d. 1464, his wife and four children ; and William Death, d. 1590, with figures of his wives Anne and Elizabeth, his ten sons and six daughters. The rectory of Dartford, valued at £534, is in the patronage of the Bishop of Rochester. From an old local rhyme it would seem that Dartford for- merly bore no enviable character. We were desired to repair to ‘“‘ Sutton for mutton, Kirkby for beef, South Darent for gingerbread, and Dartford for a thief.” Between Dartford and Dartford Brent may yet be observed indication of the ancient Roman Roap. It turns south after crossing the heath, and proceeds by way of Stonewood and Shin- glewell to Rochester. Three small barrows were formerly notice- able in this vicinity. In the reigns of Mary and Elizabeth public executions took place in a gravel pit on the Dartford border of the Brent. The botanist will find in this neighbourhood, on the breezy chalk downs, which here overlook such pleasant landscapes, the swarthy clusters of the juniper, and various species of orchis— the butterfly satyrion, the bee orchis, and, more rarely, the lizard orchis. Both sketcher and geologist will do well to cross 68 TO GRAVESEND BY RAIL. Dartford Heath to Witmineton, 14 -mile—the latter a quiet — and picturesque hamlet, which in the summer sunlight— ‘Ts white with blossoming cherry-trees, as if just covered with lightest snow.” The views across the river are instinct with life and motion. On the heath some curious hollows and caverns, descended to by deep narrow shafts, and spreading below into a very network of cells and galleries, may be examined. Some are 70 to 80 feet in depth. They were first dug, perhaps, for the sake of the chalk, which was employed in agricultural operations ; and afterwards enlarged into hiding-places an invader was not likely to detect. [Hints For RAMBLES.—1l. By the Darent, through Wilmington, to Farningham, passing Darent, and its Norman church, Sutton-at-Hone, and Horton Kirkby.—A coach to Farningham leaves Dartford Station daily.—Continue south-east to Eyns- ford and Lullingston Park. Cross to Chelsfield, and turning northward, visit Or- pington and St. Mary’s Cray. Follow the course of the Cray through the villages of St. Paul’s Cray, Foot’s Cray and North Cray. Return to Dartford across Bexley Heath,—a day’s tour, not far short of 20 miles. 2. Through Perry Street to Erith. Visit the Belvidere. Continue your route east to Lesnes Abbey ; cross Plumstead Common to Shooter’s Hill; descend into Eltham; and return by way of Blenden, Bexley, and Crayford,—about 19 miles. 38. Through Stone and Greenhithe to Gravesend. Keep south to Shinglewell. Pursue the course of the old Roman Road, through Southfleet and Stonewood (keeping Swanscombe Wood on your right) to Dartford—15 miles. 4. Through Darent Wood, and by Green Street Green, to Longfield ; then south to Hartley; cross by way of Meopham, into Cobham, and through Shorne and Chalk into Gravesend. Or from Meopham to Gravesend by omnibus. Return by rail, or by boat, to Erith, and walk to Dartford.] To resume our railway route. We pass, in due time, Erith, 14 miles, and Greenhithe, 20 miles—the scenery on either hand being of an interesting character—and through some chalk-cut- tings, arrive at Northfleet, 21 miles, the last station on the North Kent Railway before Gravesend is gained. Of these localities, however, we have already spoken in the preceding route. EXCURSION to ELTHAM ann CHARLTON HOUSE. [From Greenwich, 44 m.; from Blackheath, 4 m. ; from Lewisham, vid Lee, 3 m. ; from Woolwich, vid Shooter’s Hill, 5 m.; also by rail direct, vid Dartford loop line.] ‘* Pity the fall of such a goodly pile.”—SuHIRLEY. CROSSING a picturesque bridge of four arches, we find ourselves within the precincts of Eltham Palace—the ivy-shrouded ruins ELTHAM PALACE. 69 of its ancient wall stretching around us. The moat which the bridge spans varies in breadth from 50 to 100 feet, and encloses an area of about an acre. On the west side it is at its broadest, as there its waters dimpled and sparkled before the principal front of the palace, whose windows looked ‘out across a leafy park to the distant roofs and spires of the august London. The bridge was built by Edward IV., and took the place of an ancient wooden drawbridge. Before us now stands the ruined mansion where, in its days of glory, our Plantagenet sovereigns were wont to hold high revel. The Great HALL, chequered with the shadows of an aged elm or two, is all that remains of the goodly pile, which once contained, besides the noble banquetting chamber, a fair chapel, and six-and-thirty rooms below stairs, eight-and-thirty above. There were thirty-five bays of buildings round the court-yard, divided into seventy-eight offices. The whole was disposed of by the Long Parliament to their soldier, Nathaniel Rich, for £2753. By applying at the adjoining cottage, we obtain admission to the hall, which is now preserved by the owner of the adjoining property. The lofty groined roof is of timber, the interstices of the framing being filled with pierced panelling. Observe the interesting Screen, now black with the touch of centuries ; and the high music-gallery, where skilful fingers were wont to bring forth marvellous harmonies—“ in linked sweetness, long drawn out.” The two magnificent and richly-decorated bays at the upper end, and the side windows, placed so far above the ground that rich hangings might be used to decorate the wall, next attract our attention ; and the dais, or raised platform, where sat the king and his court in gorgeous state, and looked upon the gay “masques” or fair “ disguising” enacted upon the rush- strown floor. ‘* There the raised platform, near the bay, Served well for stage : that oriel gay Rose with light leaves and columns tall, Mid ‘ roial glass’ and fretwork small ; While tripod lamps from the coved roof Showed well each painted mask aloof.’ 70 TO GRAVESEND BY RAIL. This splendid apartment is 100 feet in length, 36 feet in breadth, and 55 feet in height. It has five double windows on each side, and at the extremity of the hall on each side a fine oriel, While standing within this hall, haunted by the memories of the immortal dead— knights, lords, and ladies, whose names are historic, and whose lives are still mingled with our national life—let us recall the principal incidents with which it is connected. It is probable that our Saxon kings had a residence at Eltham (eald-ham, the old home or dwelling), but we first read of its palace in history as the scene of grand Christmas revels held by Henry III. and his Queen, in 1270, “and this belike,” says an old chronicle, “ was the first warming of the house after that Bishop Beke had finished his worke.” This Anthony Beke or Beck, Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem, spent immense sums upon its “ edification and adornment ;” made it his favourite dwelling-place, and died under its roof in 1311. A strange warrior-priest was Bishop Beke! At the battle of Falkirk he led the English van; at Rome he opposed, single-handed, a body of robbers who had broken into his house. “So active was his mind, that he always rose when his first sleep was over, saying it. was beneath a man to turn in his bed. He loved military parade, and had always knights and soldiers about him, and, through vanity, was prompted to spend immense sums; for forty fresh herrings he once gave a sum equal to £40 sterling ; and a piece of cloth, which had proverbially been said to be too dear for the Bishop of Durham, he bought, and cut into horse-cloths.” -—Hutchinson, Hist. Durham.) This bold prelate was the luxuri- ous but splendid architect of Eltham Palace, which after his decease reverted to the Crown,* and became a well-loved resi- dence of Edward IL.’s. Here was born his son, John of Eltham, * “ Anthony Becke, Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem, built this (Eltham) in a manner new, and gave it unto Queen Eleanor, wife of Edward I., after he had craftily conveyed unto himself the inheritance of the Vescis, unto whom the place before belonged. For that Bishop, whom the last Baron de Vesci had made his feoffie for trust of all his in- heritance to the use of William Vesci, his little base (bastard) son, dealt not so faithfully as he should with this orphan and ward of his, but despoiled him of Alnwick Castle, of this Eltham, and other fair lands.”—Camden’s Britannia, Kent. ELTHAM PALACE. 71 afterwards Earl of Cornwall, and “ custos of the citie of London.” Here Edward III., greatest of the Plantagenets, held several Par- laments; and here, in 1364, he right royally entertained the prisoner of Poictiers, King John of France. Here, too, when his sun went down in cloud and shadow, he spent many a day of lingering sorrow—heavy in body and in spirit. Here Richard II. made the groined roof ring with shouts, and laughter, and brave music—*“ maintaining the most plentifulle house that ever anie kinge in England did, either before his daie or since, for there resorted daily to his court above 10,000 persons that had meate and drinke there allowed them. In his kitchen there were 300 servitors, and everie other office was furnished after the hike rate ; of ladies, chamberers, and larderers, there were about 300 at the least, and in precious and in costlie apparell they exceeded all measure. Yeomen and groomes were clothed in silkes, with cloth of graine and skarlet, over sumptuous, ye may be sure, for their estates.”—(Holinshed.) Here he received Leo, King of Armenia, “a Christian prince, whom the Tartars had expelled out of his kingdom ;” and here he held a great council and pro- nounces sentence of banishment on the Earl Marshal and the Karl of Derby, for having angered him. Henry IV. next comes upon the scene, and, with a gloomy brow and thoughtful eye, celebrates the Christmas feast of 1405 ; and here, at a later date, first feels the fatal malady of which he died. His grandson, the “faint-hearted and degenerate” Henry VI. was often a resident at Eltham ; and his bold and large-minded successor, Edward of York, built the great hall, which is still its glory and its pride. Here was born his fourth daughter, Bridget, afterwards Prioress of Dartford. Henry VII. made some few additions to the palace, but better loved “ the Pleasaunce” at Greenwich. All his chil- dren, however, were educated at Eltham, except Prince Arthur, and here Erasmus paid them a visit, accompanied by Thomas More, afterwards the famous Chancellor. Henry VIIL spent two Christmasses in this stately palace, but it had few attractions for him, and by his successors was rarely selected as a residence.* During the Civil War it was occupied by Robert, Earl of Essex, and after his death here (1646), shamefully despoiled by the rude rough hands of the Parliament- * King James was at Eltham in 1612, after which it does not seem to have been visited by any of the royal family—(Husted). Queen Ehi- zabeth, in her infancy, was often brought here for change of air. i 4 TO GRAVESEND RY RAIL. arian soldiers. In 1650 it was sold, as we have already stated, to Major-General Rich. It again reverted to the Crown at the Restoration, and Charles II. presented it to Sir John Shaw. The trees were felled ; the old palace turned into a quarry ; and the great hall owed.its preservation to the accident that it was considered likely to make a capital barn ! Before quitting this interesting locality, the tourist will wish to examine the curious subterraneous passages (souterrains) which were discovered, some years ago, beneath the site of the old palace. A trap door, in what is now an uncovered court, opens into an underground apartment, ten feet by five, from which a narrow passage leads into a series of other passages, shafts, stairs, cells, and decoys—some vertical, and some on an inclined plane—some intended to admit fresh air, and others to allow the discharge of missiles at an advancing enemy. “ About 500 feet of these pas- sages have been entered and passed through in a western direc- tion towards Middle Park, and under the moat to the extent of 200 feet. The arch is broken down in the field leading from Eltham to Nottingham, but still the brick work can be traced further, and proceeding in the same direction. The remains of two iron gates, completely carbonized, were found in that part of the passage under the moat; and large stalactites, formed of guper-carbonate of lime, hung down from the roof of the arch, which sufficiently indicated the time that must have elapsed since these passages were last entered.”—( Beattie). While at Eltham, the tourist will not fail to visit its CHURCH, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and situated at the west end of the village street, not, indeed, for its architectural merits, nor for its antiquity—only the north aisle and spire having any claims to a venerable old age (A.D. 1667)—but because in its vaults are interred Dr. George Horne, d. 1792, “the worthy and excellent” Bishop of Norwich, whose “ Commentary on the Psalms” is still held in estimation ; and Doggett, d. 1721, the once popular comé- dian, and well-remembered donor of “the coat and badge,” emu- lously contended for every August by those Thames watermen who “ feather their oars” with “such charming dexterity.” Here, too, lie interred Sir William James, d. 1783, the conqueror of Severndroog Castle (see p. 35), and his son, Sir Hdward William James, d. 1792. John and Thomas Philipot, authors of a “Survey of Kent,” published in 1659, were natives of Eltham. Vandyke had a CHARLTON HOUSE. 73 house here to which he resorted in the summer time ; and to itg pleasant shades retired the erratic John Lilburne, after he had turned Quaker, and abandoned political strife—dying here in 1657. It was also the scene of Dr. James Sherard the botanist’s avocations ; he formed a fine botanical garden, described by his protege Dillenius (Professor of Botany at Oxford), in his “ Hortus Elthamensis,” published in 1752. Dr. Sherard died at Eltham in 1739. His house, on the north side of the town, is still in existence. Quitting Eltham and its many decent villas, we cross Shooter’s Hill, admiring the noble landscape which it overlooks, and recognising that “memorabilis amzenitas” which the old topo- grapher speaks of as “pené citius animus quam oculus diffudit aspectu, non Britannia tantum, sed fortasse tota Europa pulcher- rimo,’—we descend into Old Charlton, keep towards the Church, and soon find ourselves in front of CHARLTON HOUSE. Evelyn speaks of the prospect from this point as “ doubtless, for city, river, ships, meadows, hills, woods, and all other ameni- ties, one of the most noble in the world ;” and certainly such a landscape spreads around as is not easily to be matched for variety, life, and splendour. The mansion is seated upon a fair hill, and embowered amid aged trees. It forms an oblong square, with slightly projecting wings, crowned by turrets, and orna- mented along the entire front by an open stone balustrade. The arched entrance is flanked on both sides by two Corinthian columns, and above them are two grotesquely carved pillars. To Inigo Jones the design is generally attributed, and the house is said to have been built by Sir Adam Newton, between the years 1607 and 1612, for his pupil, Prince Henry. Noticeable in the interior are the spacious oak-panelled hall ; the massive staircase, of chestnut wood ; the chapel, its doors exquisitely carved ; the saloon, with its arabesque ceiling and finely sculptured marble chimney-piece ; and the gallery, of oak, panelled, 70 feet in length. In the latter, the chimney-piece is beautifully wrought with the story of Medusa, the workmanship being of rare excellence. The drawing-room was formerly deco- rated with a marble chimney-piece “so highly polished,” that, it is said, Lord Downe, while on one occasion sitting near it, saw 74 TO GRAVESEND BY RAIMI. ~ in its mirror-like surface the reflection of a robbery committed upon Shooter’s Hill, and caused his servants to apprehend the thieves. ‘There are many good family portraits scattered through the principal rooms, and in the north gallery hangs an excellent portrait of Prince Henry. After Prince Henry’s death Sir Adam, though appointed treasurer to Prince Charles, spent the remain- der of his days chiefly in study and retirement among the shades of Charlton. The estate next devolved upon his son, Sir Henry Newton, a gallant and devoted royalist, whose “ good housekeep- ing and liberality to the poor gained him the general love and the esteem of his neighbours.” In 1659 he disposed of it to Sir William Ducie, afterwards Lord Viscount Downe, whose repre- sentatives sold it to Sir William Langhorne, an East India mer- chant. Sir William’s kinswoman, Mrs. Margaret Maryon, next inherited it, and her son, John Maryon, bequeathed it to his niece, who married Sir Thomas Spencer Wilson, sixth baronet “ of that ilk,” and grandfather of the present lord of Charlton, Sir T. Maryon Wilson, Bart. The Natural History Museum, com- menced by the late Lady Wilson, and augmented by the present baronet, is “ curious and interesting.” The Park contains about 100 acres, beautifully gineaaifien, and especially happy in the crowning glory of magnificent reeks The approach to the gardens, which contain some rare foreign plants, is through a fine avenue of yews. Of the ancient cypresses praised by Evelyn for their size and antiquity, a solitary tree re- mains, overshadowing a picturesque 5 drinking-house” in the grounds which front the mansion. Whatever historical interest attaches to Charlton is connected with the residence, under its stately roof, of Henry, Prince of Wales, eldest son of James I. It was here he prosecuted his: studies, carefully superintended by Sir Adam Newton. It was here he first displayed those graces of mind and disposition which made him the hope and darling of the nation. D’Israeli the elder has recorded some anecdotes of his early years in lively and polished language. He observes that Sir Adam filled his office of preceptor with no servility to the capricious fancies of the young prince, while, to encourage his generous spirit and playful humour, he allowed a freedom of jesting which some- times provoked him to a momentary irritability. One day New- ton, who wished to set an example to the prince in heroic exer- cises, was practising the pike, but tossed it with so little skill as HENRY, PRINCE OF WALES. 76 to fail in the attempt. The young prince telling him of his fail- ure, Newton obviously lost his temper, observing, that “to find fault was an evil humour.” “ Master, I take the humour of you.” “It becomes not a prince,” replied Newton. “Then,” retorted the young prince, “doth it worse become a prince’s master.” Newton was sometimes severe in his chastisement ; for when the prince was playing at golf, and had warned his tutor, who was standing by in conversation, that he was going to strike the ball ; on his lifting up the golf club, some one exclaimed, “ Beware, sir, that you hit not Master Newton” The young prince drew back his club, but cheerved, with a smile, “ Had I done so, I had but paid my debts.” King James once asked his noble son, of whom he was unnaturally jealous, and whose death he is peat of hav: ing foully procured, which were the best lines he had learned in the first book of Virgil’s Aneid? Henry immediately replied :— “ Rex erat Auneas nobis, quo justior alter Nec pietate fuit nec bello major in armis’”’— Aineas was our king, than whom was never man more admirable for virtue, or more illustrious in arms. Had he lived, he might have realized for England this noble model, and Henry IX. have rivalled Henry V., whom, it.is said, he strikingly resembled in person. So Ben Jonson tells us :-— “ Yet rests that other thunderbolt of war, Harry the Fifth ; to whom in face you are So like, as fate would have you so in war.” The brave young prince died in 1612, aged eighteen, and the great poets of his time flung emmortelles upon his grave. Web- ster, Donne, Drummond, Chapman, and others of the Muses’ bro- therhocd, mourned him in fitting verse. 76 FROM GRAVESEND 10 MAIDSTONE. From GRAVESEND, via ROCHESTER, to MAIDSTONE. [By rail to Higham, 5 m. ; Strood (for Rochester), 2 m.; or by road to Chalk, 2m. ; Shorne, 13 m.; Gad’s Hill, 1} m.; Rochester, 2m.; Chatham, 1 m.; from Strood, by raii, to Cuxton, 3m. ; Snodland, 3m. ; Aylesford,2m.; Maidstone, 4m. } ‘‘ Sequestered leafy glades, That through the dimness of their twilight show Large dock-leaves, spiral fox-gloves, or the glow Of the wild cat’s-eyes, or the silvery stems Of delicate birch-trees, or long grass which hems A little brook. . . A jutting point of land, Whence may be seen the castle gloomy and grand.”— Keats. The North Kent Railway from Gravesend to Rochester passes through a country of little interest. Traversing the parish of Milton, it runs almost parallel to the course of the Thames and Medway Junction Canal, until it enters, beyond Higham Station, the long dreary tunnel once occupied by the canal waters. Glimpses of the sail-crowded river, of the Essex meadows beyond, and the churches of East and West Tilbury, seated at different points of a low range of hills, occasionally amuse the tourist, and to the right his eye roves over a fair expanse of wooded uplands and bowery hollows. At 5 miles from Gravesend he reaches HIGHAM (population, 843), where a Benedictine nunnery was established in 1151, whose first prioress was King Stephen’s pious daughter Mary. Near the east end of the church a farm- house, with some Early English windows, has significant marks of antiquity, and was probably a part of the ancient monastic foundation. Observe, also, some remains of the old abbey wall, very richly adorned with luxuriant ivy. About a mile from the church, near the road to Cliffe, a pleasant village on a considerable ascent, stands Lillechurch House, where the Priory, or Abbey of Higham, as it is now called, is supposed to have been first erected ; “ behind the garden of which, in a field called Church Place, many human bones have been found.”—(/asted). e ee AN = » 2 > \ (INSTITUTION j MEDWAY BRIDGE, : From Upper Higham, or Higham Ridgeway, an ancient Roman causeway, nearly 30 feet wide, traverses the marshes to a ferry on the Thames, which formerly communicated with East Tilbury (on the Essex shore). According to some authorities, Plautius led his legions across the river at this point (A.D. 43), in pursuit of the unhappy Britons. HicgHAM CHuRcH is dedicated to St. Mary, and consists of two chancels, north and south aisles, and low tower. Memorials: —To Robert Hylton, d. 1529, one of Henry the Eighth’s yeomen of the guard ; and Liizabeth Bottler, d. 1615. The living isa vicarage, valued at £518, in the gift of St. John’s College, Cam- bridge, which was endowed with the church and the abbey estates by Henry VIII. Two miles from Higham we reach STROOD (population, 5667), the station for Rochester and Chatham, and a suburb of Rochester. In fact, Chatham, Rochester, Brompton, and Strood, form one large and populous town, connected by a bridge across the Medway, which is, as the reader knows, a tidal river, rising as high as 18 feet in spring tides, and 12 feet in neap tides. The present structure illustrates the mechanical science of the age, and the skilful enterprise of Messrs. Fox and Henderson, its builders. It is the third bridge which, at this point, has spanned the Medway. ‘The first, of wood, existed before the Conquest, and was 430 feet in length. It “was fyred by Symon, the Earl of Leycester, in the time of Harry the Third; and not full twentie years after, it was borne away with the ice, in the reign of King Edward, his sonne.” A stately structure of stone was then erected by Sir John de Cobham and Sir Robert Knowles, at their joint expense. It consisted of eleven arches ; was origi- nally 460 feet long and 15 feet broad; but, in 1793, was widened to 27 feet, and its eleven arches reduced to ten. For upwards of four centuries and a half it was the pride and glory of Rochester. The present iron bridge occupies the site of the wooden one, and when its foundations were laid, in 1850, many of the iron- shod oaken piles, used in the ancient structure, were recovered from the bed of the river. The four piers rest upon iron cylin- ders, which are sunk below the river-bed, and filled in with concrete. They rise as high as low-water mark, above which are carried the courses of masonry supporting the bridge itself 78 FROM GRAVESEND TO MAIDSTONE. The centre arch has a span of 170 feet; the two side arches, 140 feet each. The swing-bridge, at the Rochester end, is moved by some peculiarly ingenious machinery, and though weighing 200 tons, is easily regulated by two men. The ship- canal afforded by its removal is about 50 feet in width. A railway bridge, notable for its hideousness, crosses the river a few feet to the left of its magnificent neighbour, and carries the North Kent line towards Chatham. Stroop CHurRcH, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was formerly annexed as a chapelry to the parish church of Frindsbury, but rendered independent by Gilbert, Bishop of Rochester, temp. Richard I. In the present structure, erected in 1812, only the ancient tower has been preserved. Remark the brass, with figures, to Thomas Glover, d. 1444, and his three wives. The other memo- rials, though numerous, are not interesting. The vicarage, valued at £238, is presented to by the Dean and Chapter of Rochester. On the north side of the High Street, near the churchyard, may be traced some fragments of the ancient NEWARK or STROOD Hospirat, founded, early in the reign of Richard L, by Gilbert de Glanville, bishop of Rochester, “ for the receiving and cherishing therein the poor, weak, infirm, and impotent, as well neighbouring inhabitants as travellers from distant places, who should be suit- ably provided with beds, victuals, and drink, until their departure from thence.” A chronic feud long subsisted between the Hos- pitallers and the monks of St. Andrew’s, Rochester, which resulted at last in a desperate encounter in the orchard of the hospital. The Hospitallers triumphed, but the men of Strood and Frinds- bury, their stalwart assistants, felt the vengeance of the monks, who ordered them to walk in penitential array to Rochester every Whit-Monday, carrying the “ Frindsbury clubs,” with which they had done such execution. The hospital was suppressed by the omnivorous Henry VIII. Strood manor was bestowed by Henry II. upon the Knights Templars, who maintained here a Preceptory until the dissolution of this famous order. Some portions of it may be examined in the old manor-house, which occupies a pleasant site on sloping ground near the river bank. The Roman population of DuroBriva (Rochester) had a cemetery on this bank of the Medway. On its site numerous relics have at different times been discovered. Having thus conducted the railway traveller to the foot of CHALK. 79 Rochester Bridge, we return to Gravesend for the sake of. those wayfarers who, like ourselves, may prefer the high road, and that leisurely enjoyment of “ fresh fields and pastures new” the pedestrian alone can command. After quitting Milton, we proceed by a well-kept highway, and through a pleasant country-side, where waving corn fields and verdurous hop-grounds make up a pleasant picture, to CHALK (population, 291), 2 miles from Gravesend,—a quiet hamlet with a quaint old church ; the latter standing in an angle of the road, on a considerable hill, and bearing on its gray walls and embattled tower “the characters” of antiquity. The few trees which are scattered around it seem also of a venerable age. Dedicated to St. Mary, it is chiefly noticeable for the quaint sculpture over the door, representing a grotesque figure, holding a jug with both hands, and looking upwards, laughingly, at an equally grotesque figure, a tumbler or morris-dancer, whose antics appear to have given him infinite satisfaction. Between these, in an Early English recess, formerly stood—in strange juxta- position !—a statuette of the Virgin Mary. Two fantastic masks make up the sculpture. It is probably a memorial of those old village festivities known as “Church Ales”—annual feasts of bread and ale, due to the posthumous charity of benevolent par- ishioners. Thus, one William May of this parish bequeathed (A.D. 1512) “in bread six bushels of wheat, and in drink ten bushels of malt, and in cheese twenty pence, to give to poor people for the health of his soul” on each anniversary of his decease. _ The Church of Chalk was appropriated to the Benedictine Priory of Norwich, in 1327, by the bishop and convent of Rochester. It afterwards belonged to Cobham College, and at the dissolution of religious houses passed to the Crown. The living, a vicarage, is valued at £200. A short distance below the church, a turning on the right leads the wayfarer to the village of SHORNE (population, 984), lying upon rather high ground, and girt about with clumps of elms and deep masses of orchard- bloom, out of the very heart of which rises the gray old church. Observe therein the altar-tomb, and effigies, in armour, of Sir Henry de Cobham, surnamed “ Le Uncle,” to distinguish him from his nephew, Sir Henry of Cobham Hall. This worthy was 80 FROM GRAVESEND TO MAIDSTONE. five times Sheriff of Kent, and was knighted by King Edward L for his valorous conduct at the siege of Caerlaverock. Notice, too, the curious octangular Decorated font, wrought with scrip- tural subjects from the history of the Saviour, and the following brasses :—John Smyth, d. 1437 ; John Smith and Marian, his wife, d. 1457 ; William Pepys, d. 1468, and Thomas LEllys, a. 1569, both vicars of Shorne; Hdmund Page, d. 1550; and Llynor Allen, d. 1583. The vicarage, worth £358, is in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter of Rochester. The sole celebrity of Shorne is a certain wonder-working philo- sopher, named “ Maister John Shorne” or “ Sir John Shorne”— ‘““ Maister John Shorne, That blessed man born ”— who cured agues, and confined the devil in a boot, and though never canonized, had shrines erected to his honour both here, at Marston, near Gravesend, and North Marston, Bucks. At Wind- sor, a chapel was devoted to him ; and at Cawston and Gateley, in Norfolk, he is pictured on the rood-screens with a glory about his head. The tourist must now return into the Rochester Road, which he will regain at a point near the famous and picturesque locality of Gav’s Hrit, so called from the constant depredations com- mitted upon unwary travellers by minions of the moon—gads, or rogues, as the vernacular termed them, from the heavy clubs which they made use of. In Shakspeare’s time, and for many a long year afterwards, this spot had a very unsavoury reputation. As early as 1588, the ballad of “ Gadshill” (by Faire) celebrates its nocturnal pastimes. Clavell’s “ Recantation,” published in 1634, speaks of ‘* Gad’s Hill, and those Red tops of mountains where good people lose Their ill-kept purses.” Clavell was a robber ; and Gad’s Hill was the scene of his first achievements. The Danish ambassador was here made “ to stand and deliver” (A.D. 1656), and had the satisfaction of re- ceiving on the following day a polite apology from his well-bred assailants, who protested that “the same necessity that enfore’t the Tartars to break ye wall of China, compelled them to wait on him at Gad’s Hill.” In 1676, a footpad, named Nicks, way- UPNOR CASTLE. 81 laid a traveller on the hill at four in the morning, aud, instantly taking to horse, rode across the country to York, where he osten- tatiously played bowls at a quarter to eight the same evening. (Compare this incident with the tradition of Dick Turpin’s ride.) The road then ran through a thick and leafy wood, which afforded convenient shelter to “Saint Nicholas’ Clerks,” while they lay in ambush for “a franklin” from “the weald cf Kent,” or “ pilgrims going to Canterbury with rich offerings, and traders riding to London with fat purses.” Its eternal association, how- ever, will be with Shakspeare’s Falstaff and his “ men of buck- ram ;” with Poins, Bardolph and “ wild Prince Hal ;” with that famous example of thief robbing thief which “is argument for a week, laughter for a month, and a good jest for ever.” No “true man” will pass the “Sir John Falstaff” Inn, on the summit of the hill, without drinking a glass of amber ale to the memory of William Shakspeare. A few paces from the inn, on the opposite side of the road, stands, in a very pleasant situation, the country house of the late Charles Dickens, It is said that many years before he became proprietor, and when but in the promise of his fame, he selected this locality as the place of his future residence. The house—a neat red brick structure—stands in a large and agreeable garden, under the shadow of some noble trees, and commands some delightful landscapes. On the left, the tourist will be unpleasantly confronted by an obelisk of stone, erected by the good people of Rochester to an heroic auctioneer, euphoniously named Larkins, whose special claims to immortality we have unhappily forgotten. Passing Gad’s Hill we may turn aside, on the left, to Frrnps- BURY (population, 2208), a village which occupies high ground overlooking the Medway. Its CHurcu, a notable object when viewed from the streets of Rochester, consists of a chancel, north and south aisles, and steeple crowned by a spire; and has no marks of any considerable antiquity. It is dedicated to All Saints. The oldest memorials are those to Thomas Butler, d. 1621; Henry Needler, d.1661 ; and Robert Oliver, d. 1666. The font is ancient and curious. The vicarage, valued at £449, is in the patronage of the Bishop of Rochester. A road on the right leads (from Frindsbury) to Upnor CastLx, erected by Queen Elizabeth for the defence of the Medway, but now principally made use of as a powder magazine. The tourist will G 82 FROM GRAVESEND TO MAIDSTONE. remember that it is associated with the shameful shadow of a national disaster, and the glory of a deed of heroic patriotism. During our wars with the Dutch, in 1667, De Ruyter determined upon making an attack on the English dockyards, of whose un- prepared state he was well aware ; and with seventy men-of-war, besides fire-ships, he anchored, on the 7th of June, at the mouth of the Thames, and made a descent upon Sheerness. Fifteen iron guns, and a large quantity of naval stores, repaid him for his daring. Sir Edward Spragge made what immediate prepara- tion he could to retard his advance; and was assisted by the counsels of the Duke of Albemarle, whom the king sent down from London to take the chief command. Mr. Pepys tells us that he found him at Gravesend, on the 10th of June, just come to take order for the defence, “and a great many idle lords and gentlemen, with their pistols and fooleries, and the bulwark not able to have stood half an hour had the Dutch come up.” Meanwhile all London was in a panic, “ everybody was flying, none knew why or whither ;” and the wealthier citizens buried their gold and jewels. The Dutch sailed up the Medway, broke the boom, and set fire to the guard-vessels moored behind it. The next day (June 13th) they sent six men-of-war and five fire-ships against Upnor Castle, but met with so vigorous a resistance that they were obliged to withdraw in disorder. As they returned, they burnt the “ Loyal London,” “ Great James,” and “ the Royal Oak,’—a fine 80-gun ship, which was defended with brilliant valour by her commander, Captain Douglas.* Rather than desert his flag, the old sea-hero remained in the vessel, and perished with her, observing that a Douglas was never known to quit his post with- out orders. “ Whether it be wise,” says Sir William Temple, “‘ for men to do such actions or no, I am sure it is so in states to honour them ;” and the English traveller, as he’gazes on Upnor Castle, will not fail to recall the noble self-devotion of this heroic man. The Dutch did no farther mischief. Twenty-two stately ships were lying at Chatham, but the check at Upnor Castle * ‘“ Much him the honour of his ancient race Inspired, nor would he his own deeds deface ; And secret joy in his calm soul does rise, That Monk looks on to see how Douglas dies.”’ Contemporary Satirist. ROCHESTER BRIDGE. 83 ensured their safety ; and after a brief engagement between a portion of the Dutch fleet and a small English squadron under Sir Edward Spragge, in which the latter was victorious, the enemy retired from the Thames. Descending Stroud Hill, we find ourselves at the foot of Rochester Bridge (p. 77), and see before us the glittering Med- way, and beyond, the grim keep of the old fortress, and the tall tower of the Cathedral springing out of a mass of many-coloured roofs. The view from this point is very striking. “ How solemn,” says Mrs. Radcliffe, “ the appearance of the Castle, with its square ghastly walls, and their hollow eyes rising over the right bank of the Medway, gray, and massive, and floorless— nothing remaining but the shell.” The river runs clear and limpid, save where the shadows rest upon it of huge dismasted men-of-war, “laid up in ordinary,” or stately screw steam-ships, which “ Tike Leviathans afloat, Lay their bulwarks on the brine.” A curious combination the twofold scene presents of rural land- seapes “ above bridge,” and military pomp and pride below. Here the eye rests on smiling meadows and rich masses of foliage ; there, on the long lines of the buildings of the Arsenal, vast building-slips, and chalk-hills crowned with defensive works. An eminent hand, one of “ the celebrities” of Rochester, has transferred the picture before us to the immortal pages of “ the Pickwick Papers,” as it presented itself to the admiring gaze of Mr. Pickwick. “On the left of the spectator lay a ruined wall, broken in many places, and in some, overhanging the narrow beach below in rude and heavy masses. Huge knots of sea-weed hung upon the jagged and pointed stones, trembling in every breath of wind ; and the green ivy hung mournfully round the dark and ruined battlements. Behind it rose the ancient castle, its towers roofless, and its massive walls crumbling away, but telling us proudly of its old might and strength, as when, 700 years ago, it rang with the clash of arms, or resounded with the noise of feasting and revelry. On either side, the banks of the Medway, covered with corn-fields and pastures, with here and there a windmill, or a distant church, stretched away as far as the eye could see, presenting a rich and varied landscape, ren- dered more beautiful by the changing shadows which passed 84 _ FROM GRAVESEND TO MAIDSTONE. swiftly across it, as the thin and half-formed clouds skimmed away in the light of the morning sun. ‘The river, reflecting the clear blue of the sky, glistened and sparkled as it flowed noise- lessly on ; and the oars of the fishermen dipped into the water with a clear and liquid sound, as the heavy but picturesque boats glided slowly down the stream.” But let us cross the bridge, and enter ROCHESTER. (Population, 21,307. Hotels:—The Bull, King’s Arms, Crown, Royal Victoria.] The town consists of one principal street-—the High Street-— from which, to the right and left, branch off smaller streets, each in its turn sending out narrow alleys and passages, either winding round the hill, or sloping towards the river. It is not a town of great business, and during the day has a very quiet and respect- able appearance ; but towards the evening soldiers and seamen ramble in from Chatham, and enliven it in a manner which the tourist may not find so agreeable as it was considered by Mr. Pickwick. Its antiquity, however, is anything but despicable. It was the Romano-British Duwrobrive (compare the root dwr, water, as in Adur and Douro), and commanded the point where the Watling Street crossed the Medway. According to some authorities it was also named Roibis ; according to others, its first Saxon lord was called Hrof, whence came the Saxon Hrofe- ceastre ; and it was, at all events, a considerable military station, for Bede speaks of it as “the castle of the Kentish men.” King Ethelbert built here, in 597, shortly after his conversion to Christianity, a church in honour of St. Andrew, and erected the city into a bishop’s see. He also founded a monastery for secular priests, which fared but ill in the troublesome years previous to the Norman Conquest. Rochester, indeed, from its position, was exposed to the shocks of battle and the horrors of a siege when- ever a hostile force landed in Kent. It submitted to the Norman Duke, after the fatal field of Hastings, without resistance, and fell to the share of Odo of Bayeux, warrior and priest, who afterwards fortified it against William Rufus (A.D. 1088), and stoutly held it until he obtained favourable terms of capitulation. During the reign of the first and second Henrys it suffered severely from fire; nor did it escape the sword and the torch during the Baron’s War. Falling ——— —— ——SSSSS=SS= SS aa ‘ \ | | Ny i hu ROCHESTER CASTLE. ROCHESTER. 85 at length into the power of Henry TIL, he ordered a deep fosse_ to be dug around the city, and its walls to be repaired and restored. Few of our English cities have been oftener favoured with royal visits. On their frequent passage from the seaside to Lon- don, our earlier sovereigns necessarily progressed through it,— through streets alive with banners and arches, with the gleam of spears and the noise of clarions. Here Henry the Eighth, on New Year’s Day 1540, paid his first homage to Anne of Cleves, and was “marvellously astonished and abashed” at the plain- ness of her features. Here Henrietta Maria, a fairer but unhap- pier bride, paused with her loving consort King Charles, after their wedding at Canterbury. Here Queen Elizabeth took up her abode (1573) for five days, being well entertained on the fifth by Mr. Watts, “at his house on Bully Hill.” Here the pedantic James, in company with the King of Denmark, de- voutly listened to a sermon delivered by the silver-tongued Dean of Chester, Dr. Parry (a.D. 1606). Through its bannered streets rode Charles IT., in 1660, on “ coming to his own again,” and was presented with a silver basin and ewer. His successor, James the luckless, came to Rochester after his abdication (December 19, 1688), and was received into the house of Sir Richard Head—stealing away, on the night of the 23d, with the Duke of Berwick and two attendants, on board a tender which lay in the Medway. It was also honoured—happy city !—by several visits from the Hanoverian sovereigns, and the good and gentle Vic- toria has several times passed through its streets on her way 50 the military hospital at Chatham. where it has been her aoble pleasure to soothe and encourage her wounded Crimean neroes. Rochester is a municipality and a parliamentary borough, ‘with everything handsome about it ”—with a mayor, recorder, ind twelve aldermen (incorporated by Charles I. in 1630)— with one representative in the House of Commons—with a own Hall (erected in 1687) of the usual pseudo-classical charac- er—a weekly market, and biennial fairs. Among its repre- sentatives have been several naval heroes—Sir Cloudesley Shovel (1695-1705), Sir John Leake (1708-13), Admiral Vernon (1741-7), Sir Chaloner Ogle (1747-54), Sir Richard 3ickerton (1790-6), and Admiral Tufton (1796). Its present nembers are J. A. Kinglake, Esq., and P. W. Martin , Esq. 86 ROCHESTER. The two great objects of attraction to the tourist in this ancient city are, necessarily, the CastLE and the CATHEDRAL, which, as well as St. Nicholas Church, stand very near one another on the south side of the High Street. Let us first visit the CASTLE. Within its walls—on the spot where once assembled steel- clad knights and jerkined knaves—where once the seething torches shone round the heavily-laden board, and nimble feet footed it merrily upon the rush-strewn floor—are cultivated a small patch of flower-spangled sward and a modest kitchen- garden, belonging to the person who leases the castle from its proprietor, the Earl of Jersey. With these evidences of modern life and taste, the ruins contrast strangely but effectively, and the eye passes with delight from the dark, dense ivy, clustering over the gray old keep, to the radiant blossoms which bloom and brighten around it. The ruins are admirably kept, and round the interior wall of the keep runs a staircase, which is accessible even to ladies, and enables them to reach the summit without let or hindrance. And when the summit is gained, what a landscape spreads around! Chiefest feature of all, runs and sparkles through all “the enchanted ground” the “Medway smooth,” its banks crowned with masses of foliage, its waters alive with shipping, and reflecting the deep shadow of Boley (Beaw leu?) Hill. You see the hill! It is partly artificial, and the mound on one side of it may have borne at one time the defensive works of Briton or Roman. On this ascent stands the house named Satis, the successor of a mansion inhabited by Master Richard Watts (famous for his animosity to proctors), who here enter- tained Queen Elizabeth, and, when bewailing the unworthy reception he had given her, was gratified with the royal lady’s emphatic reply, “Satis!” Roman relics have been excavated on this historic hill. Turn to the right, and you see the river stretching far away to its point of junction with the “royal-towered Thames ”— washing the suburbs of Brompton and Stroud, rippling past the “ castled Upnor,” martial Chatham, and busy Gillingham. Nearer to you rises the sacred tower of the Cathedral, and beneath spread the dingy roofs of old Rochester town. The view is bounded in the distance by a chain of lofty hills. Let us now examine the ruins more minutely. The keep is, ROCHESTER CASTLE. 8 87 of course, the “lion.” Its admirable position in a strategical point of view should he noticed, and the excessive strength of its masonry. The Medway defended it on one side, on the other sides, a deep fosse. Its outer walls were strengthened by square towers, placed at regular intervals. They are faced with Caen stone, the centre being filled up with a mixture of mortar, sand, flint, and pebbles, technically known as grout-work. Its form is quadrangular, and it is nearly 70 feet square at the base. At each of the four angles rises a turret, about twelve feet square. Adjoining the east angle is a small tower, about two-thirds of the former in height, and 28 feet square. Here was made the chief archway or entrance. Up a flight of steps, of unusual width, and through a richly decorated gateway, lords and ladies, knights, squires, and pages, with the clink of armour and the glimmer of snowy plumes, entered the principal apartments of the castle ; while for men of low degree, soldiers, retainers, and servants, there was a common entrance to the lower chambers, store-rooms, dark and obscure, and the well, which, in the event of a siege, became of singular importance. A hollow tunnel or shaft connected with it, passed through the centre of the partition-wall from turret to foundation, so that water could easily be supplied to every floor. A small arched doorway on the north-east side of the Great Tower opens upon a flight of steps leading into a vaulted cell or prison, underneath the Small Tower, a low, damp, unwholesome dungeon, which the fancy may readily fill with “the ceaseless groans of pale despair.” Let us now ascend the winding staircase built within the walls of the keep, whose massive masonry has resisted all the attempts of unscrupulous Vandals, and the depredations of time. We reach, at about 14 feet from the ground, the first storey. Here the rooms were above 20 feet in height. The flooring has long ago disappeared, but we can mark its position by the holes in the walls where the huge oaken joists were placed for its sup- port. “The apartment in the north-east side, in the Small Tower over the prison, and into which the outward door of the grand entrance opened, was on this floor, and was about 13 feet square, and richly ornamented with Norman chisel-work,in which the chevron moulding on the arches of the doors and windows is the characteristic feature. This room communicated with the state apartments in the Great Tower, by means of an archway, 6 feet by 10, and secured by means of a portcullis, the groove 88 . ROCHESTER. for which is well worked in the main wall through to the next storey. The rooms also communicate with each other by means of arches in the partition ; and in the external walls are many holes, or @illets, for the admission of light, and the discharge of weapons in time of siege. In the north angle of this floor ap- pears to have been a small room, with a fireplace in it, which antiquarians have described as the guard-room of certain officers of the garrison.” —(Leattie.) On “the second storey was situated the Baronial Hall or prin- cipal apartment, 32 feet high, a magnificent illustration of the grandeur and richness of Norman architecture. ‘Kings and heroes here were guests In stately halls, at solemn feasts. But now, nor dais nor halls remain ; Nor fretted window’s gorgeous pane Twilight illuminated throws Where once the high-served banquet rose.”’ The central partition is formed by three massive columns, each 18 feet in height, which form four noble and richly de- corated arches. The interior arches, doorways, and windows, were also ornamented with chevron mouldings; the chimneys were semicircular, and very capacious, and the smoke was carried off by apertures in the walls. A narrow arched passage is car- ried round the whole of the keep, about midway between this storey and the next. On the upper floor, or third storey, may have been placed the Chapel. The apartments here were 16 feet in height. The roof was long ago removed, so that the eye of the spectator ranges from top to bottom over the bare discoloured walls. Asbending to the battlements (104 feet from the ground), he gazes around upon a landscape of infinite variety. The river winds through a smiling country side ; the busy town beneath lies in a purple atmosphere-; broad lights and shadows chase each other over the woodlands of the Weald of Kent ; here rises the tall tower of the Cathedral ; yonder stretch the grim fortifi- cations of Chatham ; repose and action are noticeable in the closest juxtaposition. Rochester Castle, then, as the tourist Bs now discovered, was “strongly fortified wi by art and situation,” and before Roger Ba- coms explosive compound revolutionized the science of war, might ROCHESTER CASTLE &9 justly have been considered a stronghold of extraordinary secu- rity. Probably it occupies the very site of the ancient Romano- British or Saxon fortress, long known as “ the castle of the Ken- tishmen.” As the report goeth, says Camden, Odo, Bishop of Bayeux and Earl of Kent, built a portion of the present castle, and the manor of Rochester was conferred upon him by his half- brother, the Conqueror. When Odo joined the revolt against William Rufus (4.D. 1088), it was here he at first resolved to await the attack of the royal forces. Having, however, entrusted its defence to Eustace, Earl of Boulogne, he himself retired to Pevensey, when, after enduring a siege of seven weeks, he was obliged to capitulate. Pledging himself to surrender Rochester to the king, he obtained a speedy pardon, and was despatched by Rufus, with an escort of horse, to carry out his engagement. But there were then in the gray towers of Rochester the flower of the young nobility of Normandy and England, and these gallant youths, as they stood upon the castle ramparts, plainly discerning that the bishop’s countenance contradicted the speech of his attendants (“vultum episcopi cum militum verbis non convenire percipientes,’—WMatthew Paris), rushed through the gates, seized upon the bishop as if by force, and bore him and his guards triumphantly into the castle. The stratagem was ingenious, but did not long avail the crafty prelate. King William led a powerful army against him, and after a close siege, forced him to surrender. The terms which were granted the English considered much too favourable. William’s Norman adherents, however, were unwilling to despoil and weaken their friends and kinsmen. “We pray thee,” they exclaimed, “we, who have stood by thee in thy greatest peril as we stood by thy father, we pray thee to spare our fellow-countrymen.” So King Rufus yielded, and granted the besieged permission to leave their stronghold with their arms and horses. Then Odo presumed yet further, and strove to obtain a promise that the victor’s music should not ring out in triumph when he and his adherents yielded up the castle. The king, in great wrath, exclaimed,—* Nay, ¢hzs favour I will not grant him for a thousand marks!” So that they were con- strained to issue forth amid the blare of trumpets and the clash of clarions. When Odo appeared—with pale but haughty brow, and unfaltering step—the clamour rose more angrily. ‘The Saxons cried out, “Ropes! bring ropes! Let us hang this traitor-bishop and his accomplices! Why dost thou suffer him 90 , ROCHESTER. to go in safety? He ought not to be let live—the perjured murderer !”* Nearly a century and a half elapsed before the Medway again re-echoed the noise of trumpets, and reflected the glitter of spears. The castle of Rochester was then defended by William de Albini, Earl of Arundel—one of the confederated barons who gained Magna Charta—against King John and his forces (A.D. 1217). A curious incident of the siege is told by Matthew Paris :—On one occasion. while King John and his counsellor, Savaric de Mauleon, were reconnoitring the Castle, they were discerned by a bowman of great repute, who immediately addressed himself to William de Albini, and besought his permission to aim at the sanguinary tyrant. “Nay, nay,” exclaimed the baron; “ far from me be the heavy guilt of compassing the death of the Lord’s anointed.” “He would not spare thee,’ rejoined the archer, “if thon wert in like case.” Then rejoined the baron—“ That would be as the Lord pleases; the Lord disposes, and not I.” In this did De Albini resemble David, who in similar manner spared Saul when he might have slain him. At length, “they within, for want of vittels, were constrained to yield it up unto the king, after it had been besieged the space of threescore daies; during which time they had beaten back their enemies at sundrie assaults with great slaughter and losse. But the king having now got the possession of that hold, upon grief conceived for the losse of so manie men, and also because he had bien so long about it ere he could winne it, to his in- estimable cost of charges, was determined to have put them all to death that had kept it. But Sauveric de Mauleon advised him otherwise, lest, by such crueltie, the barons in any like case should be occasioned to use the same extremitie toward such of his people as by chance might fall into their hands. Thus the king spared William de Albiney and the other nobles and gentlemen, and sent them to Corfe Castle, and other places, to be kept as prisoners.” —(Holinshed.) A few months later and the castle was besieged by Louis of France, who had come to the aid of the confederated barons, but it had suffered so severely in its recent struggle, that it was unable to offer a prolonged resistance. A grand tournament took * “ Torques, torques, afferte, et traditorem episcopum patibulis sus- pendite! Cur sospitem pateris abire? Non debet vivere perjurus homicida !”’— Ordericus Vitalis, book viii. 4 ROCHESTER CATHEDRAI. 91 place in the adjoining fields on the 8th of December 1251.—a sort of prelude, as it were, to the fierce strife between King and Commons—between Henry III. and the great Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester—which soon afterwards broke out. Earl de Warrenne and Roger de Leyborne, the Chief Constable, then held it for the king (A.D. 1264), and so stoutly discharged their duty, that Leicester, after making himself master of every part of the castle but the keep, was forced to raise the siege. In this desperate struggle a great part of the city, as well as the bridge and the priory, were burnt down. This is the last historical association of the old castle. It was repaired by Edward IV., but soon afterwards suffered to fall into grievous decay. King James granted the site to scurrilous Sir Anthony Weldon, and through a succession of many owners it has passed to its present proprietor, the Earl of Jersey. The Archbishops of Canterbury were appointed its Constables by Henry I, but during the unquiet reign of Stephen, the Crown resumed the right of nomination, and never again surrendered it. Quitting the castle with our fancy inspired by memories of the old chivalrous days, we pass, by an easy transition, to The CATHEDRAL, dedicated to St. Andrew, and founded by Bishop Gundulf (1077-1107), who built the nave and north-east tower. It was consecrated to St. Andrew for this reason :—After Ethelbert, king of Kent, had adopted Christianity (a.p. 600), he built here, at the instigation of St. Augustine, a cathedral church, and the great missionary monk affectionately dedicated it to the patron saint of that rich monastery “upon the Celian Mount at Rome,” where he and his fellow-adventurers had passed so many years of calm repose. Rich endowments were bestowed upon the new cathedral by generous kings and devout thegns, but in the storms of battle which, during the Danish reign of terror, swept scathingly over the doomed city, it was grievously despoiled, and, despite its pious benefactors, fell into a state of terrible dilapidation. When Gundulf, the monk of Bec, succeeded to the see of Rochester, he set to work to raise a more splendid structure ; and displacing the secular canons which he found here, appointed Benedictine monks to the number of sixty. The nave and north-eastern tower, the walls of which are ten feet thick, testify to the bold concep- tions of Gundulf’s architectural genius. His successor, Ernulf, abbot of Peterborough and prior of 92 ROCHESTER. Canterbury (1115-1124) erected a dormitory, refectory, and chap- ter-house, and bestowed lands and costly gifts both upon church and monastery. On the 7th of May 1130, the Cathedral was consecrated by Bishop John (1125-37), in the presence of King Henry and a goodly assemblage of priests, nobles, and knights ; but unhappily a great fire broke out in the city during the festivities, and the church was severely damaged. During the time of Bishop John, of Seez in Normandy (1137-1142), the work of reparation went bravely on. In 1177, it was again terribly injured by fire, and Bishop Walter (1147-82), Gualeran (1182-84), and Glanville, severally superintended its re-construction. The new roofs were covered with lead by Richard de Ross, prior, in 1199, and his successor Helias. With the erection of a new Chancel and Choir Transepis by William de Hoo, prior (1239), Early English architecture suc- ceeded to the Norman style. The South 203 rous Villas along the road from their Portus Lemanis to Anderida (Pevensey), and the Saxons formed it into one of the small depen- dent provinces ruled by the kinglets or sub-reguli of Kent. It is now 14 miles long, and varies from 4 miles to 8 miles in breadth. Four subdivisions are recognised—Romney Marsh, about 24,000 acres in extent ; Wallend Marsh (W.), 16,000 acres ; Denge Marsh (S.), 3000 acres; and Guildford Marsh, 3300 acres, stretching into Sussex. The three latter districts comprise about 23,000. acres in all. A few oxen, and from 150,000 to 180,000 sheep, are fed upon these pastures. They are the principal inhabitants, and their sheep-folds the principal buildings, except where a few mean houses, clustering round a small and ancient church, form “ a village.” Yet to the eyes of a Cuyp, or a Paul Potter, the landscape would not be unattractive. The clumps of elm, birch, or willow, here and there springing from a grassy knoll,—the water-courses, rich in aquatic plants and frondent weeds,—the wide stretches of broad green pasturage, curiously sprinkled with grazing flocks,—the far-off hamlet, and the gray old spire rising above its low thatched roofs,—and, from certain points, the wide sweep of the channel waters, bounded in the distance by a bank of clouds,—make up a picture, which possesses an interest and a character of its own. This marsh country was fenced in from the sea at a very early period, and all wastes and wrecks on its sea-border were appro- priated to the maintenance of its embankment. Twenty-four jurors, or jurats, were intrusted with its general supervision, and power was accorded them to raise a tax to defray the neces- ‘sary expenses. Complaint being made by these jurats to Henry IIL, that persons landing in the marsh neglected to pay their proper dues, the king despatched Henry de Bathe, a famous jus- tice-itinerant, to inquire into the laws and customs existing in the marsh-district. The result of his investigations was seen in “ The Ordinances of Henry de Bathe,” which are, even now, the basis of all our English legislation in reference to embankments and drainage. Edward IV. incorporated the marshmen, and placed their government in the hands of a bailiff and twenty-four jurats ; but the repair of the sea-walls and the control of the drainage, has always been, and still is, vested in the lords of twenty-three manors in or adjoining the marsh, who are called “ The Lords of the Marsh.” 204 BRANCH ROUTE THROUGH HYTHE, ETC., TO RYE, The open country known as Dunge Marsh and Walling Marsh, and the culminating cliff of Dungeness, are reached by a branch line from Appledore. In the centre of Dunge Marsh, and about 3 miles south of New Romney, lies the town of LYDD (population, 1800). It is a large and by no means an unim- portant town, supplying with the necessaries of life the fishermen on the shore and the hinds in the adjoining marshes. South-west of the town, on a bank of shingle and pebbles, grows a long ridge of sea-holly, or holm-trees, which has a peculiar effect from its singular position. It is spoken of by Leland. At Stone End, one mile east, where was placed the stone marking the boundary of the land given by King Offa to Archbishop Janibert, a heap of stones was long pointed out as the tomb of Saints Crispin and Crispianus, who were shipwrecked on this coast in a violent storm. DuncENESsS, the extreme southern point of Kent, is about 3 miles from Lydd, and is worth visiting for its fine sea-views. The land has here extended a mile seaward within the memory of the present generation, the channel-waters effecting a constant accumulation of shingle. The dangerous nature of the sands and shoals upon this shore led to the establishment of a lighthouse, as early as the reign of JamesI., by a goldsmith named Allen. Some seventy years ago Mr. Allen’s erection was taken down and a new one built by Wyatt, after the model of the famous Eddystone, at the expense of the Earl of Leicester. The land here rises to an elevation of 110 feet. A small fort stands in its immediate vicinity. A spring of fresh water at Dengeness is overflowed by the salt water at every tide. Pisum marinum (sea-peas), sea-colewort, and elecampane, grow plentifully upon the beach. Lypp CuuRcH, dedicated to All Saints, is a large and goodly ° building, with a Perpendicular tower, containing an Harly English and Curvilinear nave, transept, chancel, north and south aisles, It belonged to Tintern Abbey until the time of the Suppression, when the advowson was attached to the see of Canterbury. The vicarage is very valuable, its yearly income being returned at £1247. There are brasses to John Mottesfont, vicar, d. 1420, and Clement Stuppenye, jurat and bailiff, d. 1608. An ancient altar- tomb, with the recumbent effigy of a knight in armour, comme- morates Sir Walter Menel, temp. Edward III. FZAyd \ ¥ 3 i, 4 Vy Gp 5 d Lo, PORE Tunber Foy EX Lr oa Y West Mow ut =~ A Eel ik\ ——— Western Hetg ge Ye ‘ 4 St Mary's Ch. p 4 nruins) ii \S Castle Dover oy AX’ Yi: WS; Or 8 on é WEAR Johnston Baunburgh & London a 4 ~~ en, te itt iE ™~ f. VAP Lihih! Ce f : Oo INSTITUTION } WSLASGON el a2 INSTITUT iON oe iSGOW oS = Jon < ; = ry Ld F = a og ie ; =, (o Z : ) ae : ] ‘ ‘ ee . z + Lae F D 5 ee ¥ 7 Y = # Y ‘ "i D ot ©) »* * ; i ~ 210 DOVER. In a lighter strain does ‘“ Don Juan” celebrate the approach te Dover. The wanderer here first saw our ‘“‘ Albion’s earliest beauties, Thy cliffs, dear Dover, harbour, and hotel; Thy custom-house, with all its delicate duties ; Thy waiters running mucks at every bell; Thy packets, all whose passengers are booties To those who upon land or water dwell; And last, not least, to strangers uninstructed, Thy long, long bills, whence nothing is deducted.” We now turn to arapid review of its history, and here we must needs content ourselves with a glance at its more interest- ing associations, for as Dover has long been the chief port of south-eastern England, it is necessarily associated with a series of brilliant incidents. When the great Cesar contemplated the subjugation of . Britain, and embarked his hitherto invincible legions at Witsand, between Calais and Boulogne, it was to Dover his galleys, carry- ing the famous seventh and tenth legions, were first directed (August 26, B.c. 55). But the chalk-heights glittered with armed men, whose movements were so formidable that the conqueror of Gaul was content to turn his forces to the southward, and select some easier place of disembarkation. Not the less, after the passage of a hundred years or so, the Roman eagle towered in all its “pride of place” upon the cliffs of Dover. In its neighbourhood Cymbeline nearly resisted the invading forces, and after his death Arviragus (A.D. 43) fortified the Celtic encampment upon its lofty hill, and threw a barrier across the mouth of its harbour to oppose the entrance of the Roman ships. ‘Tiles have been found in excavations under St. Mary’s Church, lettered C. P. B. R., the initials of “Cohors Prima Britannica Romana,” a legion raised in Germany by Augustus, and despatched to Dover in the year 43. Others have been stamped “ Cl. Br.,” happily interpreted by Mr. Roach Smith as the abbreviation of “ Classiarii Britannici,” or British Sea-Fencibles, proving that Dover was one of the stations of the Romano-British fleet. It was garrisoned by Tungrians in the reign of Constantine; by a British legion in that of Theo- dosius. The tower upon yonder cliff was raised by Roman hands. Uhe Saxons were equally ready in recognizing the importance DOVER : ITS HISTORY. 211 of this military position, which, strongly fortified by Withred of Kent, successfully resisted the attacks of the Norse pirates. Thus, - free from the desolating ravages which had overthrown so many of its sister towns upon the south-eastern coast, Dover grew into a prosperous and wealthy condition, and was able, in the time of Edward the Confessor, to augment the royal navy by a quota. of twenty ships, each carrying one and twenty seamen. In 1048, when the famous Godwin ruled over town and castle, Eustace, Count of Boulogne, who had wedded Goda, the sister of the Confessor, arrived here with a brilliant train of Norman knights and squires. After paying their court to “the saintly monarch,” they returned to Dover to take ship for the continent, and arm- ing themselves, seized by force upon such provisions and lodgings as they required. A stout Saxon boldly withstood the Norman robbers, and slew one of the most daring, but was himself mur- dered, and twenty of his neighbours, in the hot fight which ensued. The Normans, however, lost as many in killed, and more in wounded, and their leader sent a pitiful complaint to his kinsman, the royal Edward, beseeching that vengeance might be taken upon “the rebellious Saxons.” The King sent injunctions to that effect to the gallant Godwin, but the Saxon Earl was not disposed to take the side of the Roman aggressor, and calling his retainers around his standard, demanded that Eustace of Boulogne should be yielded up to the Saxon judges. The issue was the banishment of Godwin—‘“a political blunder”—afterwards signally avenged. A few years passed, and the trumpets of William of Nor- mandy’s army were heard over the heights of Dover. The towns- men, feeling that resistance was useless, sent the town-keys to the Conqueror, but on the arrival of a detachment of Norman knights, were loth to surrender their unconquered stronghold. Into the town broke the triumphant foe, and set it on fire. So fierce was the conflagration that only nine and twenty houses escaped. Its past and its present were thus succinctly summed up by the commissioners who prepared the famous Domesday Roll :— ‘* Dover, in King Edward’s time, was assessed at £18, of which the king received two-thirds, and Earl Godwin one-third. The monks of St. Martin’s had a portion. The townsmen supplied to the king twenty ships, once in each year, for fifteen days, and carrying one and twenty men. They rendered this service 919 DOVER. because the king had released them from sac and soc. When the king’s messengers came to this haven, they paid 3d. in winter and 2d. in summer for a horse ; but the townsmen provided a guide and another assistant. If more were needed, they were supplied at the king’s expense From the feast of St. Michael to that of St. Andrew the king’s peace was established in the town ; who- ever broke it paid the usual forfeiture to the royal superin- tendant. These customs existed when King William came to this country. “ On his arrival the town was destroyed by tire, and conse- quently its value could not be assessed, when the Bishop of Bayeux received it. It is now rated at £40, yet its port revenue pays £54. “There are 29 nouses in Dover, of which the king has lost the customary fines. William, son of Geoffrey, holds three, one of which was the town-house of the burgesses. Robert of Wester- ham built a certain house upon the king’s water, and up to the present time has received the royal customs. This house was not standing in King Edward’s reign. “ At the mouth of the harbour stands a mill, which wrecks almost every vessel by the force of the tide, and causes great loss to the king and his lieges. There was no such mill in King Edward’s days. The nephew of Hubert asserts that Odo of Bayeux granted his license to his uncle Hubert Fitz-Ivo to erect it.” The town throve under its Norman rulers, and new churches sprang up within its walls. Stephen died here in 1154. In 1156 it was visited by the able Plantagenet, Henry II, and again, in 1179, when on his way with King Louis of France to kneel at the shrine of Thomas 4 Becket. Richard I. set out from Dover on his chivalrous enterprise to free the Holy Land from the Saracen ; and it was here that his brother Geoffrey, while worshipping at the shrine in St. Martin’s Priory, was arrested by the orders of Longchamp, bishop of Ely. In 1212, Cardinal Langton and. King John met here to arrange conditions of peace between them, and on Barham Downs, overlooking Dover, the king, in the following year, assembled an army of 60,000 men, in the vain hope that they would enable him to defy Philip of France. It was in the Church of the Templars, on the western cliff, that he shamefully humbled himself before the legate of Rome :—— DOVER : ITS HISTORY. 213 ‘Did not the prophet Say that before Ascension Day, at noon, Thy crown I should give off? Even so I have.” SHAKSPEARE. Its stronghold was the last in Kent to yield to Prince Louis and the revolted barons. “ All Kent hath yielded,” exclaims the Bastard of Falconbridge; “nothing there holds out but Dover Castle.” What sovereign of England but has visited this famous sea- port, which frowns defiance at the shores of France, and with its walls of glittermg chalk, majestic and impregnable, seems a fitting symbol of English power? Edward the First and his regal Eleanor ; the lion-hearted Margaret of Anjou; Edward the Second and Isabel, the “she-wolf of France ;” the stately Phi- lippa ; Edward the Third, greatest of the Plantagenets; Anne of Bohemia, “ the good queen;” Richard the Second; Henry VIL: Henry VIIL; the beautiful Henrietta Maria; Charles the Second, returning to a throne he disgraced; Caroline, the hapless wife of George IV.; and Victoria, “the well-beloved,” have all in regal pomp passed through its winding streets. On what grand historic scenes—on what memorable festivals —have yonder cliffs looked down! They saw Hubert de Burgh (August 24, 1217) defeat the French fleet under Eustace the Monk, and they echoed with the triumphal music which wel- comed the conqueror as he returned into his citadel. They witnessed the French, 15,000 in number, assault the town in August 1295, and the flames shooting up luridly against the evening skies from the burning houses ; but they also saw the invaders driven back to their ships with a fearful loss by the knights who had issued from the castle and joined the gallant townsmen. Hither was brought, in 1363, the body of John of France, who had died a prisoner in the Savoy, and here it was delivered up to his subjects for removal to the resting-place. of the French kings, under the solemn roof of St. Denys. Hither in 1216 came the Emperor Sigismund, with a train of 1000 horsemen and a fleet of thirty great ships, and here he was received by the Duke of Gloucester and “ divers other lords,” who, when he made ready to land, entered the water with drawn swords in their hands, and would not suffer him to disembark until he had declared himself “ their king’s friend, and a mediator to intreat for peace.” Here, in 1421, Henry the Fifth landed 214 DOVER. : with the fair bride, Katherine of Valois, whom he had won at the sword’s point, and who was welcomed “ as if she had been an angel, and the people ran into the water to carry her ashore upon their shoulders.” Yon heights looked down upon the splendid array—the 500 ships, the 4000 stout horsemen, and 24,000 skilled archers—with which King Harry set forth on his last expedition to France, and saw his triumphal return. “Behold! the English beach Pales in the flood with men, with wives and boys, Whose shouts and claps out-voice the deep-mouth’d sea, Which, like a mighty whiffler ’fore the king Seems to prepare the way.” (SHAKSPEARE. ) A few months later and the echoes were aroused with the sound of solemn funeral music, as the widowed Katherine landed with her brave husband’s corpse—500 men-at-arms in black armour following the hero’s bier, while the glaring torches threw strange lights and shadows upon the unresting sea. The astute Emperor of Spain and Germany, Charles V., landed here, May 25, 1520, and had an interview with his royal nephew, “Bluff King Hal ;” and from this port the said King Harry set out on his way to the famous “Field of the Cloth of Gold.” Men and women, trembling with hope and fear, gathered upon these lofty cliffs when the vast galleasses of the Spanish Armada bore away through the narrow straits, hotly pursued by Drake, and Hawkins, Frobisher, and Effingham. Charles the First was here on Sunday the 13th of June 1625, impatiently await- ing the arrival of Henrietta Maria. Bright and sunny was then the promise of their wedded lives! How changed the prospect when, on February 23, 1642, she embarked with the Princess Mary for France, to obtain what aid she could for her husband against his subjects. And greater, perhaps, the change when she re- turned, on the 28th of October 1660, and was right splendidly entertained in the Castle-hall, and received with loyal cheers by the very men who a few years before had watched her departure with sullen brows and suspicious eyes! “Three Scenes in a Life” not easily to be matched, we fancy, in the history of any queen or king, “ at home or abroad !” But a few months earlier Dover had witnessed a scene of even greater splendour, and enthusiastic townsmen had loyally DOVER : ITS HISTORY. 2156 flung their caps up in the air and welcomed Charles the Second to “ the throne of his ancestors.” So wild was the revel, that the witty sovereign might well turn to his attendants and good- humouredly remark — “ Odsfish, gentlemen, these good folks seem so happy to see us, that surely it was our own fault we did not gratify them sooner!” The king “ was received,” says gos- alping Pepys, “ by General Monk with all imaginable love and respect at his entrance upon the land at Dover. Infinite the crowd of horsemen, citizens, and noblemen—people of all sorts. The mayor of the town came and gave him his white staff, the badge of his place, which the king did give him again. The mayor also presented him, from the town, a very rich bible, which he took, and said it was the thing that he loved above all things in the world. A canopy was provided for him to stand under, which he did, and talked awhile with General Monk and others, and so into a stately coach there set for him, and so away through the town towards Canterbury, without making any stay at Dover. The shouting and joy expressed by all is past imagination.” In 1665 the plague, which had desolated London, made its appearance at Dover, and slew 900 persurs. They were buried on the slope of the hill towards Hougham, at a spot still known as “The Graves.” Here we close our historical retrospect, and proceed to a survey of the famous relics that adorn this city. The first point visited by the tourist will probably be DOVER CASTLE. This ancient fortress stands upon a bold bluff rock, about 320 feet above the sea-level, near the site of the original Roman stronghold, and for eighteen centuries this formidable promon- tory has been “ the advanced guard” of Britain. The buildings are of considerable extent, including within their area thirty-five acres, and with their towers, and barbicans, and massive walls, have a most imposing aspect. Of the primitive condition of this ancient fortress “ not a visible trace,’ says Mr. Puckle, in his in- teresting work,* “ now exists, except the basement of a pre- * The Church and Fortress of .Dover Castle. -By the Rev. John Puckle, M.A. With Illustrations and Approximate Plan of the An- cient Works of the Castle. 5 916 DOVER. sumed strong rubble rampart running round the upper edge of the Roman earthwork. Accounts, indeed, are given of other very ancient remains existing in this part of the castle precincts up to about the beginning of the present century ; but successive works of destruction, undertaken from time to time by the Ord- nance and other authorities in command at Dover Castle, have obliterated all vestiges of such remains, whatever they may have been. We have nothing left but the traditional lines, believed to have marked the principal Saxon works, of which Dover Castle mainly consisted previously to the greater works of Norman builders.” These ancient works lay to the south of the present castle (as shown by Mr. Puckle in his approximate plan), but having the same entrance by Colton Gate. “Tt seems,” says Mr. Puckle, “that the way of entering by Colton Gate has always remained the same, having afforded ac- cess successively to the Roman and Saxon fortress ; and visitors, still wending their way up the chalk cutting and under the Oc- tagon Tower, are probably following the footsteps of Roman garrisons, British chiefs, thanes and churchmen of Saxon times, the forces of Earl Godwin, and many others of earlier genera- tions, till the Normans made their own approach to their state- lier towers and Keep . . Passing under the gate- way, the space to the left is nesceined as the site of the buildings serving for the primitive residences of the canons of Eadbald’ 8 folndation, close to the church they had to serve. From thence, by a zigzag descent to the extreme angle on the cliff, under a tower long called the Canons’ Gate, they could hold communica- tion with the town. At the opposite or western angle of the main walls there seems to have been a tower, afterwards adopted, and fitted for his own service, by one of the Confederate Knights, as the name of Sir William de Harcourt would suggest. At right angles eastward from thence, and directly in line with the Colton Gate, was the more strongly fortified entrance called, from proxi- mity to the great well within the enclosure (the same still in use by the parade-ground), the Well Towers and Gate. Further eastward was another Saxon work, apparently included afterwards within the Norman tenure, and commonly known as the Ar- mourer’s Tower. This was connected at the northern angle of the fortress with another small tower, under which was an en- trance bearing the very obscurely derived name of King Arthur’s Gate ; and from thence, turning eastward, extended the parallel ~ DOVER CASTLE. DVe lines abutting upon Godwin’s Tower, from which projected northwards again the external work ascribed to that somewhat mythical and variously represented Earl of Kent. “This completed the circuit of defences inclosing the Saxon fortress, but of which nothing now remains to exhibit the original form, except the rubble foundation running round the horse-shoe parapet of the original Roman work. There appears no trace of any other building than the massive Church itself having ever served the purpose of donjon, tower, or keep ; the low dwellings of its canons at the southern angle being probably the only other buildings within the area of the Castle of those still rude and unskilled days. “ At some intermediate and much later date it would seem that the great complicated plan, which expanded Dover Castle into the proportions still remaining, was anticipated shortly be- fore the main Anglo-Norman works by the construction outside the Saxon lines of three towers, which came to bear, nevertheless, the names of after Norman commanders. It was the first step towards extending the line of defence. The one on the north- east was so placed as to cover Earl Godwin’s outwork, with the approach to his sally-port and tower, whose traditional position may be seen on the plan ; and it took its name from one Sir Geoffrey Clinton, sometime Treasurer to Henry I. The next, to the south-east, was immediately at the apex of the Roman earth- work, and took its name still later from Sir William de Valence, who shared many of the unhappy counsels and fortunes of Henry III. It was better known latterly as the Mill Tower, from having been turned to the pacific use of a flour-mill for the garrison. And also, at the south-west, was a heavier work, flanking the approach to the main gate, and named after Sir Ralph de Mortimer, a soldier high in favour both with William I. and Rufus ; known also for his successes at Wigmore Castle on the Welsh border. The basement of this tower is said to be still remaining, sunk in the solid chalk through which the approach is cut now lead- ing under the archway of Colton Gate. The tower over this gate—a Saxon work at first—has undergone much later altera- tion ; the entrance arch having the character of the time of Edward III., when it was commanded by Lord Burghersh, whose arms are borne on the stone shield above. About the same period a similar transformation was effected of the upper mem- ber of the Pharos under Constable Richard de Grey, whose arms 218 DOVER. are also inserted on a small square stone.” The octagon stages of both these towers appear to have had even later changes, the few broken tracery pieces of the windows being of Tudor type.” Proceeding from Colton’s to the Palace Gate, the tourist sees, upon a gentle rise, the ancient Christian church and the Roman Pharos, surrounded by an oval entrenchment 400 feet by 145, and a deep dry ditch. A circular camp, with a single fosse and vallum, seems to have been put forward on the west side as an advanced work to protect the approach. The Castle is fortified to the north-west by numerous towers of Anglo-Norman work- manship. Beginning from a point near the church and Pharos, we meet, in succession, with the AVRANCHES ; the FITZWILLIAM ; the Earn of Norroik’s; Lorp St. JoHn’s; Sir ROBERT DE CREVECGUR’S ; GoDsFor’s, built by Fulbert de Dover; the TREASURER’S ; LonD JOHN DE FYENE’S, or the CONSTABLE’S ; Str Hueu DE PortnH’s, or QUEEN Mary's; Sir WILLIAM DE PEVERELL of Dover’s; Sir ROBERT DE GaTTon’s ; SIR STEVEN pD’ARSICK’s ; SiR JOHN DE Hirsr’s, built by Fulbert de Dover ; Sir FULBERT DE Dover’s; StR THOMAS DE ROKESLEY’s. These towers were principally erected by Sir John de Fiennes and his eight Norman knights—D’Avranches, De Lacy, D’Arsick, Peverel, Maynemouth, Porthes, Crévecceur, and Fitzwilliam—to whom the defence of the castle was entrusted by the Conqueror Wil- liam, and who held their estates on the tenure of “ castle-guard ;” that is, each knight was bound to maintain a certain number of men-at-arms, 112 in all, of whom five-and-twenty at a time were always to be at their posts, and to keepin repair and com-. pleteness the tower which bore his name, and a part of the ad- jacent walls. The noble Norman Keep, which “ forms part and parcel of the one great original design,” measures 123 feet on the east and west sides, 108 feet on the north, and 103 feet on the south. Its area, therefore, may be described as an irregular quadrangle, The walls are 20 feet in thickness. The turret at the north angle is 91 feet 9 inches in height, and 465 feet above low-water mark. ‘The galleries built in the massive walls,'the cells where prisoners were confined, the loop-holes whence its defenders might discharge arrows and other missiles on an attacking force, are still extant for the gratification of the curious. The summit is roofed over with bomb-proof arches, and a traversing platform, mounted with 64-pounders, has been con- CHURCHES OF DOVER. 219 structed. Here the tourist may tarry for a while, and his “ obser- vation with extensive view” embrace the glorious prospect of sea and land around him. Nor will he fail to recall ‘“‘ the shadows of the Past,’—to behold, in quick succession, the stirring changes of English history—while he looks out upon the sea which was once covered with the Roman galleys, and the heights which once bristled with the glittering lances of the Celtic hosts drawn out to resist the mighty invader—upon the sea ploughed of old by _ “the dragons” of the Norsemen—upon the sea which, in a later age, has swarmed with the triumphant fleets of England! The names of the great constables of the very castle within whose haunted precincts he stands—Constables of Dover Castle, and Lords Wardens of the Cinque Ports—are sufficient to bring before him a series of historical pictures of unusual splendour. Here ruled Godwin, the great Earl, mightier in the love of his fellow- countrymen than Edward the Confessor in his royal power and Norman kinships ; Harold, whose immortality it is that he was “the last of the Saxon Kings ;* Odo of Bayeux, William’s trucu- lent half-brother, a true type of the warrior-priest ; John de Fyennes, a potent Kentish baron; the magnificent William Longsword, Earl of Salisbury, son of the beautiful Rosamond and Henry II. ; Hubert de Burgh ; William D’Avranches ; Edmund of Woodstock, Earl of Kent ; Roger Mortimer, Earl of March ; Edmund Langley, Duke of York, fifth son of Edward III. ; Harry of Monmouth, afterwards the hero of Agincourt ; Humphrey, “the good duke” of Gloucester ; the Duke of Buckingham, the - partizan and yet the victim of Richard III.; Richard Neville, the king-making Earl of Warwick ; George Boleyn, Viscount Rochford, the father of hapless Anne Boleyn ; George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, the splendid favourite and minister of the first two Stuart kings ; Fleetwood, Lambert, Desborough, and Blake, heroes of the Commonwealth ; down to the illustrious Arthur, Duke of Wellington. [A few minor details may here be introduced :—CoNnsTABLE’s, Or FIENNES’ T OWER, was first built by John de Fiennes, one of the earliest Norman Constables of the castle, but the present building dates temp. Edward III., except those sashes, doors, chimneys, etc., which display the fine workmanship of a later period. PEVERIL’S TowER is, perhaps, Transition-Norman. The moat is now filled up. The AvRANCHES’ TowER, temp. Stephen, is one of the finest and ‘‘most curious” * Tradition has preserved these two well-known names as lords of the castle while still an Anglo-Saxon fortress. 220 DOVER. Norman edifices existing. The foundations are of great depth, and the wall is 10 feet thick. A gallery in the wall contains a platform for bowmen, which surrounds the tower, and commands numerous embrasures or loop-holes., Near the brink of the south-east cliff stands Queen Elizabeth's Pocket-Pistol, a piece of brass ordnance cast at Utrecht in 1544, and presented to the great Gloriana by the States of Holland. It is 24 feet long, is pierced for a 12-pounder, requires a charge of 15 pounds of powder, and has a range, it is said, of seven or eight miles. The sides are decorated with emblematical figures of Victory and Liberty, and armorial bearings. The Flemish in- scription runs :— ‘* Breckt scheuret at, muur en dal ben ik geheten, Door berg en wal, boord miirren bal door mii gesmeten.” ENGLISHED :— O’er hill and dale I throw my ball ; Breaker, my name, of mound and wall. Moat’s BuLwark, originally built by Henry VIIL, was re- built on the improved principles of modern engineering in 1853. Communication with the castle is maintained by means of a long deep shaft. On the shore is placed a six 42-pounder battery, named the GUILDFORD, erected in 1777. Dover Castle at present is a stronghold of considerable importance. It had fallen into great decay during the early years of the Hanoverian dynasty, so that Defoe, in his Tour through England, inveighs against the government of the day for having so entirely neglected its defences. After the out- break of the great Revolutionary War, measures were taken to fortify a position of such importance in a proper manner. CHURCH OF S. MARY-IN-CASTRO—8T. MARY IN THE CASTLE. “This ancient church,” says Mr. Puckle, in his work already alluded to, “ still holding its wonderful place within these pre- cincts, is, except the Pharos, by far the most remarkable and primitive fabric that remains on these historic heights. The Castle-keep, the massive Norman defences, and the sweep of sub- sidiary towers, form an imposing arrayswhich strikes attention at once ; while their history, associations, and changes they have undergone are more familiar subjects; but the case is widely different with regard to this old church’s primitive fabric—a CHURCHES OF DOVER. 22) perfectly unique monument of the early Christianity of England— unique, perhaps, among such memorials in Europe. History, properly speaking, it has none: for little has been really known about it; and, by any documentary evidence, there is little enough that could be ascertained of its primitive foundation and original times, whatever they might be presumed to have been. For a long while the fabric itself was masked by its own unto- ward circumstances ;—smothered by a vast accumulation of soil ; used as a garrison coal-yard at one time, at another as a place of many miscellaneous stores; and overlaid with remnants of medizeval churchwardenisms, which are often as bad as any of the nineteenth century. Within the twelve months of its sub- stantial restoration, however, the analytical process the fabric had first to go through brought out many features, and opened facts -to light, which seem to tell their own tale. This restoration having been undertaken by the Government, and entrusted to Mr. G. G. Scott, was happily overlooked on his behalf by an admirable superintendent of works, who treated the old walls as Izaak Walton, when fixing his bait, professed to treat his frogs, ‘as though he loved them,” “ The foundation of the church has been ascribed to Eadbald, the energetic convert of Laurence of Canterbury, the early friend and after patron of Paulinus at Rochester, the chief promoter of the rudely-munificent Christian work at Lyminge. But,” says Mr. Puckle, “ the internal evidence of the fabric still less bears out a Saxon than a Roman foundation. And, remarkably enough, the knowledge we have of the date of the church at Lyminge rather helps to throw us back upon a much earlier time as the probable date of the church of Dover Castle. It is hardly too much to say that every early feature of this build- ing is, more or less, at variance with any commonly-received examples of Anglo-Saxon work.” And from the careful exami- nation Mr. Puckle was enabled to make along the foundations, he found the character of the masonry and stone employed “suggestive of some very early date for the church’s foundation, not far from Roman times in England.” The early English characters grafted on the architecture of the interior (which constituted its chief beauty in those days, as they do in its existing condition now) belong to some late period pro- bably of the reign of Henry III.” “These were the pointed arches leading into the north and 222 DOVER. south transepts, the delicate lancet-windows in the chancel side- walls, the double, or perhaps triple, lancet-lights (some of whose marks remained) in the eastern gable, the single sedile in the south wall of the chancel, the vaulted roofs of combined chalk and stone over the tower space and chancel, and here and there a transept-light. “ These works had a peculiar character in two ways. They did not extend westward of the nave-arch, but were confined to the upper, or, so to say, collegiate portion of the church. And they formed a kind of internal shell to the original mass of the fabric ; not displacing, hardly interfering with, any portion of the older structure, but undersetting it with the light graceful lines and delicate ornamentation of a church of the middle of the 13th century. The great tower-arches, east and west, were left unaltered ; those north and south, if originally of the same form (which we had no means of ascertaining during the restoration), were entirely changed into the four-centred early English arch, nearly equilateral, springing from imposts of about the original height, the archivolt rising to nearly the pitch of the transept roof—very solid, and even in thickness with the tower wall— with a simple soffit-moulding on the edge, and an attached shaft at each angle of the jamb from impost to ground-line. In the four angles of the tower, and of the chancel in lke manner, nearly detached circular shafts, more massive, were carried up from the basement to the impost-level, and from them sprang the vaulting-ribs, carrying the ight chalk groining which super- seded the upper chamber floor of the tower, and the old roof of the chancel, as they had most likely been originally constructed Two beautiful features were thus added to the interior.” . Descending into the town, we make the best of our way to our next point of interest (on the west side of the Market-place) —the ruins of ST, MARTIN’S-LE-GRAND, founded, as a college, by Withred, King of Kent, in 691, and completed in 726. It included twenty-four canons, who were exempt from episcopal jurisdiction, and were inordinately wealthy. Henry II. suppressed the foundation, and then re- stored it as St. Martin’s New-work, or Newark. The church connected with it was, however, maintained until 1528, and finally dismantled in 1542. CHURCHES OF DOVER. 293 In the churchyard of St. Mary’s, about 60 yards distant from the ruins, lies interred the dust of Charles Churchill, the satirist, who died at Boulogne, 1764. On the tombstone is sculptured a line, selected by himself from his poem of “'The Candidate ”—a line untrue in connection with his own career, and certainly not in sympathy with the associations of a graveyard— ‘« Life to the last enjoyed, here CHURCHILL lies,” The grave of the able, but erring poet, was visited by Lord - Byron, and the tombstone repaired at his expense, It was here he meditated these well-known verses :— “« T'stood beside the grave of him who blazed The comet of a season, and I saw ‘The humblest of all sepulchres, and gazed With not the less of sorrow and of awe On that neglected turf and quiet stone, With name no clearer than the names unknown Which lay unread around it ; and I asked The gardener of that ground, why it might be That for this plant strangers his memory tasked Through the thick deaths of half-a-century ? As he caught As ’t were the twilight of a former Sun, Thus spoke he :—‘ I believe the man of whom You wot, who lies in this selected tomb, Was a most famous writer in his day, And, therefore, travellers step from out their way To pay him honour—and myself whate’er Your honour pleases ;—lI did dwell With a deep thought, and with a softened eye On that Old Sexton’s natural homily, In which there was Obscurity and Fame, The Glory and the Nothing of a Name.” Sir Walter Scott observes, with some truth, that “ the grave of Churchill might have called from Lord Byron a deeper com- memoration,” but when he proceeds to compare the genius and character of the two poets, “ both of whom died in the flower of their age in a foreign land,” we are reminded of a certain famous parallel between Alexander of Macedon and Henry of Mon- inouth. Of the once opulent and powerful 224 DOVER. PRIORY-CHURCH OF ST. MARTIN’S, NEWARK, there is not a memorial extant. The site of the nave is now be- neath the modern houses, and a line of houses stands where formerly the mass-music swelled through “ the columned aisles.” The Great Gateway is still nearly entire, and there still remain the House-Refectory, Offices and Campanile, the Strangers’ Refectory of State use. Above the dais may be seen faint medallions (of presumed apostles’ heads). From 1537 to 1597, Dover could boast its suffragan-bishops ~ —Richard Ingworth, 1537-39 ; Richard le Stede, 1539-58 ; and Richard Rogers, 1569-97. ‘ PARISH CHURCHES. The town was formerly possessed of six parochial churches—Sr. NicHOLAs, in Bench Street, in use as late as 1526, and finally pulled down in 1836 ; Sr. Joun, destroyed in 1537; Sr. Permr, on a site now occupied by the Antwerp line, North Street, where the mayor was formerly elected, in use as late as 1611; Sr. Martin, of which we have already spoken ; St. Mary and Sr. JAMES, Which are still in existence. ‘There were also a chapel, dedicated to Our Lady of Pity (near the pier), which was built by some Northern worthy on his escape from shipwreck, and suppressed in 1536; and St. Epmunp’s, a church situated at the upper end of Biggin Street. Sr. Mary’s, Canon Street, was one of the ancient churches made over by the Bishop of Bayeux, Odo, Constable of Dover Castle, to the Crown (William I) The original fabric, from the font to the west step, was of Anglo-Saxon times ; the next en- largement was from the font to the chancel-step, and tower added, about Stephen’s time ; lastly, the chancel, as far as the present sacrarium-steps, was added about the reign of King John. The original church stands over a system of Roman baths, on whose concrete floors the Saxon columns stand. The whole fabric was (except the tower) rebuilt from the foundations, enlarged to double its capacity in 1843, and reconsecrated October 1844. In the south aisle observe the small tablet to Samuel Foote, the dramatist, comedian, and mime, who died at the Ship Hotel, October 21, 1777, and was buried in Westminster Abbey. There is also a memorial to Churchill, commemorating him as the great “hich priest of all the Nine,’—whose worship must CHURCHES OF DOVER. 225 have been somewhat Saturnalian in character while controlled by so extravagant a genius. The living of St. Mary’s is an ancient rectory, left in total abey- ance, without incumbent or minister, from the Reformation to the last century, and for the last five occasions presented to by the inhabitants. The Hosprran of the Matson Dieu was founded early in the reign of Henry III. by the chief justiciary of England, Hubert de Burgh, who dedicated it to St. Mary, and provided for the maintenance of a master, brethren, and sisters, and of such poor pilgrims as should resort thither. The chapel was built by King Henry ITI. in 1227, in whose hands the loyal Earl Hubert had placed the patronage of the foundation. He was present at its consecration. At the date of its suppression by Henry VIII. its gross annual income was estimated at £331, 16s. 7d. It was then adapted as a victualling-office. The pre- mises were purchased in 1831 by the Corporation, and converted to municipal uses—the chapel was changed into a session-house, the refectory remodelled into a town-hall. Beneath the latter, which contains some medieval halberds, axes, and partisans, is the town-gaol. In the hall are portraits of certain Dover cele- brities : Charles Il., by Vandyke ; James II. ; William of Orange ; Queen Anne, by Kneller; George I.; Lord Chancellor Hard- wicke, by Ramsay; and the Duke of Wellington. The four- light west window, with some fine stained glass by Wailes, was placed, in 1858, by Mrs. Bell, in memory of Rev. W. Kingsford. It presents figures of Kings Edward III., Henry IIL, Richard IL, and Hubert de Burgh. The MusrEum, now arranged in a suitable building at No. 1 Norman Street, is open daily, except on Sundays and Thursdays, from 10 a.m. until 4 P.M., and contains a good collection of local antiquities and specimens of natural history ; minerals and fossils ; some Dover tradesmen’s tokens, “ a basket-hilted sword used by Cromwell,’ Roman coins and arms; and other things both “ curious and rare.” Our next visit must be to THE HARBOUR OF REFUGE. Dover is the only Cinque Port* which has remained of service to * Cinque Ports (i.e. the five ports), five havens on the south-eastern coast of England, opposite France, and thus called by way of eminence, on Q 226 DOVER. modern days. The old harbour-entrance was immediately under the eastern cliff, and is alluded to in the Itinerary of Antoninus, A.D. 320, when its channel was pointed out by two-lighthouses— one in the castle, the other on the west cliffs. During the medizval reigns it was, as now, the chief port of embarkation for France, and all persons quitting England were compelled to start from this harbour, temp. Henry III. The prices of conveyance between the English and French shores were fixed, by a statute of Edward IIL, at 2s. for a man and his horse, and 6d. for a man on foot. Edward IV., in the fourth of his reign, renewed the enactment, which made this the only port of embarkation in England ; and it continued in force until repealed by James I. Privateers harassed the shipping off this coast in the days of the Tudors, and in 1605 a foray was made by some Dutch rovers upon a few Spanish ships which had slunk for protection into Dover haven. Henry VII. finding the capacities of the harbour considerably weakened by the retrocession of the sea—the entrance was then beneath Archcliff Fort—commenced some important works; but Henry VIII. must really be regarded as the founder of the mari- time prosperity of Dover. To divert the course of the Dour to the west, and prevent the rapid accumulation of shingle, he began, at a cost of £80,000, a vast pier of stone (A.D. 1533), built upon a superstructure of enormous piles filled in with chalk, and car- ried it 150 yards farther into the sea than the present pier-head. After his death, the magnificent enterprise fell into weak and in- competent hands, and was sorely neglected. The loss of Calais dealt a heavy blow at the prosperity of the port until Raleigh represented its importance to his sovereign mistress in the fol- account of their importance as safeguards against invasion. These com- prise Hastings, Romney, Hythe, Dover, and Sandwich ; to which were afterwards added the two ancient towns of Winchelsea and Rye. .These places were anciently deemed of so much importance in the defence of the kingdom against invasion, that they received royal grants of particular privileges, on condition of providing during war a certain number of ships at their own expense. They are governed by a warden with the title of Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, and each had the privilege formerly of returning to Parliament two members under the title of Barons of the Cinque Ports; but since 1831 this privilege has been confined to Hast- ings, Dover, and Sandwich. We are told by Camden that William the Conqueror appointed the first warden of the Cinque Ports; but their charters are traced to the time of Edward the Confessor. The salary of the Lord Warden is £3000 a year (See Chitty’s Commercial Law, vol. ii. p. 12). DOVER HARBOUR. , i lowing emphatic language :—“ No promontory, town, or haven in Christendom,” he says, “is so placed by nature and situation, both to gratify friends and annoy enemies, as this town of Dover, No place is so settled to receive and deliver intelligence for all matters and actions in Europe from time to time. No town is by nature so settled either to allure intercourse by sea or to retain inhabitants by land, to make it great, fair, rich, and populous ! Nor is there in the whole circuit of this famous isle, any port, either in respect of security or defence, or of traffic or intercourse, more convenient, needful, or rather of necessity to be regarded than this of Dover.” The Queen then determined upon improving and restoring the harbour, and provided the necessary funds by taxing every vessel which passed it at 3d. per ton, and allowing the free trans- portation of 30,000 quarters of wheat, 10,000 quarters of malt and barley, and 4000 tuns of beer. A commission was appointed, headed by Lord Cobham, to superintend the works; and the channel was so deepened and enlarged, that ships of considerable tonnage could now enter, where before there had been only 4 feet depth of water. James I. formed the governors of the harbour into a corporation, entitied, “'The Warden and Assistants of the Port of Dover.” In 1652, there was 22 feet depth of water at spring tide, and the advantages of this harbour have since been largely experienced by our British fleets. It may now be divided into three parts :—The Prnt, or BREAK- WATER, 114 acres in extent, with a 60 feet wide entrance ; the BASIN, 33 acres, and the OureR Harsgoor, 74 acres. The quay, on the south side of the Pent, is 431 feet at its greatest length, and 30 feet in depth ; constructed, 1832-41. ~~ ° bad ne “* +. ~ , i Ps oe - - ~ ; 5 =< = . i » ‘ : ‘is a * d very o - AIRY 75] - f “wet } VEO = ' — . if : é pe 4 pipet | , | 4 - ‘ - < q - s : 3 } °S j : — g a. 4 - 24,* ) .” 490s ee: i Ngee Abed \ ‘ nthe t i. a i oa ye : ‘ st - = . eo "y “i “4 — 7) . a 7 t : i ay ts . ” a » ih ‘ { = ks 1S ies Aner ais , - "7 p* ‘oh y *< / z * an » & 3 di . 4 a. ei. : af ae peta - Pe La | y-ernls ar) ¢ ial — eT ae : ; pants Ny DEAL. 953 Folkestone have also had their advocates ; but a careful conside- ration of the various statements made by conflicting authorities induces us to believe that the great Roman landed his legionaries on the “plano et aperto littore” between Deal and Walmer. “ Roman coins in great quantities, and other remains, have been found under the sand-banks in the neighbourhood of Deal. The coins, which are in bad condition, are chiefly of the Emperor Tacitus, who reigned in A.D. 275.” Deal must therefore have been an important station at a comparatively early period of the Roman occupation. Deal, as early as the year 1229, was esteemed within the liberty of the Cinque Ports, and annexed as a member to the port of Sandwich. Its mariners were even then in great repute for their skill and daring. The historical associations of Deal may be summed up in a few words. Perkin Warbeck landed here in 1495, but met with a severe repulse from the men of Sandwich. In 1579, Anne of Cleves was a guest for a few hours in its castle, on her way to meet her unwilling bridegroom. The castle was built by King Henry in 1539. In August 1648 an attack was made upon it by the royalist forces, but they were beaten off by the governor, Colonel Rich. The royalist fleet lay at anchor in the Downs during the engagement, with Prince Charles (afterwards Charles IL.) on board. Queen Adelaide landed here on her first visit to England. Closely connected with Deal and its history, is SanpowNn CastLE, about half a mile north, on the low sandy shore. It is one of the many forts erected for the defence of the southern coast by Henry VIII. about 1539, when it was supposed to be the design of “divers great princes and potentates of Christen- dom to invade the realm of England, and utterly to destroy the whole nation of the same.” ‘ It consisted of a large central round tower, and four circular bastions with port-holes ; while it was strengthened with an additional battery on the side near the sea, which formerly was at a considerable distance from its walls. The entrance was by a drawbridge. The walls were massive, varying in thickness from eleven to twenty feet, but as a fortification it was useless against modern artillery. It was dismantled and the upper por- tion of the castle taken down and used for building purposes. Its only historical interest is derived from its having been 954 DEAL. the place of confinement of a great and good Puritan soldier, Colonel Hutchinson, who died here on the 11th of September 1664. His wife has immortalized the regicide’s memory in a charmingly written biography, which has all the attraction of a romance. She states that he was imprisoned in this “ lamentable old ruined place, not weather-proof, unwholesome, and damp,” without crime or accusation. He was treated by the governor with considerable cruelty, and his devoted wife compelled to remain in “ the cut-throat town of Deal,’ walking to and from the castle daily “ with horrible toil and inconvenience.” Permission was obtained from the government, towards the close of the Colonel’s imprisonment, for him to walk at certain hours upon the beach, where he amused himself with watching the vessels that sailed up and down the Channel, and conversing on the state of public affairs, and the eventual certain overthrow of the race of Stuarts. “ When no other recreations were left him, he diverted himself with sorting and shadowing cockle shells, which his wife and daughter gathered for him, with as much delight as he used to take in the richest agates and onyxes he could compass, with the most artificial engravings.” A writer, who visited the Castle some few years ago, relates his impressions with much graphic force: “I was sitting,” he says, “one evening on the beach close by Sandown Castle. While thus employed, a man came out of the castle gate, crossed the drawbridge, and passed me. In passing, he stopped a moment, and looking towards the Goodwin Sands, lying beyond the Downs, he said : “ - — _ s Sq > 2 9 SX SY Y VEE BOS A: SS "IRS s entered the city through St. George’s Gate. Under the same canopy were seen both the youthful sovereigns ; Cardinal Wolsey was directly in front; on the right and left were the proud nobles of Spain and England ; the streets were lined with clergy, all in full ecclesiastical costume. They lighted off their horses at the west door of the Cathedral ; Warham was there to receive them; together they said their deyo- tions—doubtless before the shrine.’’| But the Reformation came. In 1534 the separation of the English church from the Roman papacy was formally decreed. In 1535 began the suppression of the monasteries. In 1536 the first blow was struck at the worship of St. Thomas, and injunc- tions were issued which dissolved some of his great festivals. That of the Translation, which had always been celebrated with great solemnity, did not long escape. In 1537, on its eve or vigil —that is, the 6th of July—Archbishop Cranmer “ ate flesh,” and “ did sup in the hall with his family,” and the table was spread, as usual, for the officers of his household. In the following year (April 24, 1538) a summons was issued in the name of Henry the Eighth, “to thee, Thomas Becket, sometime archbishop of Canterbury,” charging him with treason, contumacy, and rebel- lion. It was read within the Cathedral, by the side of the shrine ; thirty days were allowed for the saint’s appearance ; and as this, for obvious reasons, did not take place, the case was for- mally argued at Westminster, between the attorney-general on the part of Henry IL, and an advocate granted to Becket at the expense of the Crown. The arguments of the former prevailed, THE CATHEDRAL --THE STAINED WINDOWS. aos and sentence was pronounced against the archbishop, that his bones should be publicly burnt, and the offerings made at the shrine forfeited to the king. The sentence was carried out in the following September. The jewels and gold were carried off in coffers, and absorbed in the royal stores, and the “ Regale of France” was long worn by Henry himself in his thumb-ring ; the bones were either scat- tered to the winds, or interred without the slightest care. “St. Thomas” was degraded to “Bishop Becket ;” his images were pulled down, and his name was everywhere erased. The destroyers, however, suffered his figure to remain in some of the stained windows which still shed a dim religious light within the Trinity Chapel. And these windows, as well as those in the Corona, should be admiringly examined—as Professor Willis has pointed out—inasmuch as for excellence of drawing, harmony of colouring, and purity of design, they are unequalled in all Europe. “ The skill with which the minute figures are represented cannot even at this day be surpassed.” ‘The scroll- work and rich borderings which encircle the medallions are equally delicate and beautiful. The three windows which, in this glorious chapel, have sur- vived the ignorance of fanaticism, represent—as did all the others —the miracles effected by the martyred archbishop, to whom heaven gave precedence over St. Stephen, because the latter was slain by strangers, Becket by men of his own faith. We see him passing over the dusky waters, and descending in light to aid the vessels of the Crusaders. Here he arises from his shrine, robed in his gorgeous pontifical habiliments, to celebrate mass at his own altar. Here he restores sight to the blind, and here he relieves those who have lost the power of smell. In one window we see the son of Jordan, son of Eirulf, recovered from the chains of death by water from St. Thomas’s Well, whereat the father rejoicing, vows a rich offering at his shrine before Mid Lent. The promise being neglected, sickness descends upon his house— his son again falls dead—nor recovers until his parents, in sore distress, have performed their vow at Canterbury. From Becket we turn to another, and, perhaps, a purer Eng- lish Worthy—to Edward the Black Prince, to the hero of Crecy and Poitiers—the flower of the chivalry of England—whose “most authentic memorial” is here—his Toms. Canterbury was a city which he loved and favoured. On the occasion of his mar- 334 CANTERBURY. riage to Joan, the Fair Maid of Kent, he had founded a chantry in the undercroft of the south transept, and by his will, dated, “le vij jour de Juyn, l’an de grace mil troiscentz septantz et sisme,” at Westminster, he had supplied the most precise directions as to the mode of his interment in the crypt, the fashion of his monument, and the exact wording of his epitaph, which runs as follows :— ‘¢'Tu que passez ove bouche close, par la ou cest corps repose, Entent ce qe te dirray, sicome te dire la say, Tiel come tu es, je autiel fu, Tu seras tiel come je su ; De la mort ne pensay je mie, Tant come j ’avoy la vie. En terre avoy grand richesse, dont je y fys grand noblesse, Terre, mesons, et grand tresor, draps, chivalx, argent et or. Mes ore su je povres et chetifs, perfond en la terre gys, Ma grand beaute est toute alee, Ma char est tout gastee, Moult est estroite ma meson, En moy na si verite non, Kit si ore me veissiez, Je ne quide pas qe vous deeissen, Qe j’eusse onges hom este, si su je ore de tout changee. Pur Dieu pries an celestien Roy, qe mercy eit de l’arme de moy, Tout cil qe pur moi prieront, ou 4 Dieu m’acorderont, Dieu les mette en son paray, ou nul ne poet estre chetifs.” The Conqueror was not buried where he had enjoined, but in the Chapel of the Trinity itseli—in the raised space behind the altar, and on the south side of the shrine of St. Thomas—a space now surrounded with monuments, but then entirely vacant. ‘There he les, as he had directed, in full armour, his head resting on his helmet, his feet with the likeness of ‘the spurs he won’ at Cregy, his hands joined as in the last prayer which he had offered up on his death-bed. There you can see his fine face with the Plantagenet features, the flat cheeks, and the well-chiselled nose, to be traced perhaps in the effigy of his father in Westminster Abbey, and his grandfather in Gloucester Cathedral. On his armour, you can still see the marks of the bright gilding with which the figure was covered from head to foot, so as to make it look like an image of pure gold. High above are suspended the brazen gauntlets, the helmet, with what was once its gilded leopard, crest, and the wooden shield, the velvet coat also, em- broidered with the arms of France and England, now tattered and colourless, but then blazing with blue and scarlet. There, too, still hangs the empty scabbard of the sword, wielded perchance at his three great battles, and which Oliver Cromwell, it is said, MEMORIALS. 335 carried away, On the canopy, above the tomb, there is the faded representation—painted after the strange fashion of those times— of the persons of the Holy Trinity, according to the peculiar devotion which he had entertained. In the pillars you can see . the hooks to which was fastened the black tapestry, with its crimson border and curious embriodery, which he directed in his will should be hung round his tomb and the shrine of Becket. Round about the tomb, too, you will see the ostrich feathers, which, according to the old, but I am afraid doubtful, tradition, we are told he won at Crecgy from the blind king of Bohemia, who perished in the thick of the fight ; and, interwoven with them, the famous motto with which he used to sign his name, ‘Houmout, ‘Ich diene’ And lastly, carved about the tomb, is the long inscription composed by himself before his death, in Norman French, written, as he begged, clearly and plainly, that all might read it. Its purport is to contrast his former splendour, and vigour, and beauty, with the wasted body which is now all that is left. A natural thought at all times, and increasingly so at this period, as we see from the further exemplification of it in Chichele’s tomb, a hundred years later, where the living man and the dead skeleton are contrasted with each other in actual representation,—but singularly affecting here, if we can suppose it to have been written during the four years’ seclusion, when he lay wasting away from his lingering illness, with the overcloud- ing of his high fortunes, and death full in prospect.” The tomb of Henry IV. and his beautiful second wife, Joanna of Navarre, will next attract our attention. Henry’s body was removed hither—from Westminster to Faversham by water, and thence by land—on the Trinity Sunday following his death (May 1413), and was interred by the side of the Black Prince with solemn pomp, in the presence of Henry V. and his chief nobles. A rumour spread abroad that the royal corpse had been cast into the river during a great storm, on the passage from Gravesend to Barking, but when the tomb was opened, in 1832, it was found therein, and in a state of singular preservation. Queen Joanna, who probably erected the monument to her deceased husband, died in 1437, aged seventy, at her palace of Havering-Bower. ‘ Also the same year died all the lions in the Tower, the which was nought seen in no man’s time before out of mind”—(Stowe). Other memorials in this hallowed spot consecrate the name and fame of Dean Wotton, temp. Henry VIIL., the figure by Ber- 336 : CANTERBURY. nini; Archbishop Courtenay, d. 1396, an uncompromising oppo- nent of the Lollards ; and Cardinal Castillion, a Huguenot con- vert, killed by a poisoned apple administered to him by a -treacherous servant. In the SourH AISLE of the CHAPEL stands a nameless tomb, sometimes attributed to Archbishop Theobald, 4G. 1160; and in St. ANSELM’s CHAPEL is the beautiful arcaded altar-tomb of Archbishop Simon de Meopham, d. 1333, who died, it is said, of a broken heart at the affronts put upon him by Grandison, Bishop of Exeter. The eastern end of the Cathedral, the Corona, built by Eng- lish William, 1178-84, formerly held the shrines of Avchbasteolll Odo and Wilfrid (of York), and still contains the tomb of the Papal Legate, Cardinal Pole, d. 1558, the last archbishop buried in the Cathedral. West of ANsELM’s Towsr, built by Prior Ernulf, we pass into the SourH-EAstERN TRANSEPT, in whose apses were anciently placed the altars of Sts. Gregory and John. Of Archbishop Win- chelsey’s tomb (1292-1313) the traces are very scanty. Remark the ARCHIEPISCOPAL THRONE or PaTRIARCHAL CHAIR (“ St. Augustine’s Chair”) in which, it is said, the heathen chiefs of Kent were enthroned, and which Augustine received from his convert, King Ethelbert ; and observe, against the south wall of the Choir, the memorials of Archbishop Walter Reynolds, d. 1327, and the crusader-prelate, Hubert Walter, d. 1205. From the South Transept, reached by a descent of several steps, we pass into the Warrior’s CHAPEL, dedicated to St. Michael, and built about 1360-70. Here the most noticeable memorials are, the stone coffin of the great archbishop, Stephen Langton, d. 1228, who divided the Scriptures into chapters, and joined the barons against king John; and a stately pile erected by Margaret Holland in honour of her two husbands, John Beau- fort, Earl of Somerset, d. 1409, and Zhomas, Duke of Clarence, younger brother of Henry V., slain at the battle of Beaugé in 1421. Our examination of the interior of the Cathedral will con- clude with a descent into its ancient Crypt, or UNDERCROFT, one of five English Eastern crypts (2. e., under the choir)—Winches- ter, Canterbury, Rochester, Worcester, and Gloucester—built before 1085. At the east end is placed the CHapsen of OUR LADY, whose shrine, in the old days, was one of extraordinary wealth and beauty. The niche and bracket for the Virgin’s THE CHANTRY. 37 image are still extant. Remark the grave-slab of the Archbishop and Cardinal Morton, d. 1500, whose influence was exercised in favour of the union of the White and Red Roses by the marriage of Elizabeth of York with Henry of Richmond (January 1486). The ceremony, however, was solemnized by Cardinal Bourchier “whose hand held that sweet posie, wherein the white and red roses were first tied together.” Queen Elizabeth, in 1561, permitted the protestant exiles from France and Flanders to set up their silk looms in this crypt. Their descendants still make use of the side aisle as a place of worship. Remark the French inscriptions with which the roof is covered. The CuHantry, founded by the Black Prince, in 1363, on his marriage with his long-wooed lover, Joan, the “Fair Maid of Kent,” exhibits his armorial bearings and those of his great sire, Edward III. “Fauke’s Hall”—or Vauxhall—was then handed over by him to the Chapter of the Cathedral, and is still their property. The roof of St. Jonn’s CHAPEL (beyond) is covered with curious designs in tempera. As we advance towards the east, underneath Trinity Chapel, we may remark the lightness of the architecture, distinguishing the later work of English William from the gloomy massiveness of Prior Ernulf’s conceptions. It occupies the place of an earlier crypt where Becket’s body was first interred, and where Henry I. performed his memorable penance. The most remarkable points of the Cathedral, externally, are the “ Bet Harry” or GREAT CENTRAL Tower, built by Prior Goldstone the second, 1495-1517, to replace the “Angel Steeple,” already alluded to (p. 320). Of the two west towers, a modern one, in 1840, replaced the ARUNDEL STEEPLE, while the other, the DunsTAN STEEPLE, remains as it left the hands of Prior Goldstone and Archbishop Chicheley. [In the immediate vicinity of the Cathedral there are certain points of interest to which we may briefly direct the visitor’s attention. ‘‘The Oaks,” a portion of the Canonry, was the old monastic pleasaunce. The ‘‘Infirmary” and the “In- firmary Church” formerly stood in the Green, or Prior’s Court, and here, too, were the ‘‘Honours,” or state-chambers, which received the Prior’s most dis- tinguished guests. There is some Norman work in the Dark Entry, and in the small tower beyond, now called “‘ The Baptistery,” which ¥uas originally employed as a reservoir for water. The Cuaprer Lipranry contains some interesting relics. The Cuaprer Hovss was built in 1470-90. Its interior should be closely examined. The CLoisrers, DEANERY and the PorTeR’s GATE, have also their peculiarities of detail, which will easily be recognised by the careful inquirer. The Krne’s Grammar Scwo01, for 50 scholars, founded by Henry VIII[., counts Z 338 CANTERBURY. among its celebrities, Charles Abbot, Lord Chief Justice Tenterden, whose father kept a small shaving shop opposite the great west facade of the Cathedrai. Of the ARcHBISHOP’s PaLaAcE, in Palace Street, a Norman archway is the only memorial. It is unnecessary to recal the famous scenes with which it was associated, or to name the kings, and peers, and knights, who were right royally entertained under its noble roof. It first fell into decay during the rule of the Puritans, and its entire demolition was hastened by an act of Parliament after the Restoration, which excused the Archbishops from putting it into repair. | ST. AUGUSTINE'S COLLEGE. The Pagan temple on the road to Rutupisz, in which Ethel- bert and his predecessors had sacrificed to the mysterious deities of the old Norse religion, was consecrated by St. Augustine as a church in honour of St. Pancras. Near at hand was raised a religious house for Benedictine monks, dedicated to Sts. Peter and Paul, the patron saints of Rome. When restored and enlarged by Archbishop Dunstan, in 978, to these two saints was added one of later canonization, Augustine himself, and the monastery became known by his name rather than by the names of his predecessors. It flourished amazingly until Henry VIII laid his heavy hand upon it, and then it rapidly passed away from the face of the earth. The only remains of the MonasTERY are some Norman details, insignificant in extent ; and of the CHurcH the refectory, the entrance gateway, the graveyard gate, and some time-worn walls. The very fine gate of entrance dates c. 1310. The graveyard gate c, 1399. After the Suppression, the monastic buildings were for a while converted into a palatial residence, where Charles I. entertained Henrietta Maria after their first Interview at Dover. In 1844-8, THE MisstionaRy COLLEGE was erected on this interesting site, at the sole expense of A. J. Beresford Hope, Esq., and from the designs of Mr. Butterfield, the architect. Accommo- dation is provided for 45 students, whose annual charge is simply £35, and whose education is directed towards qualifying them for the service of the church in the distant dependencies of the British Empire, “with such strict regard to economy and frugality of habit, as may fit them for the special duties to be discharged, the difficulties to be encountered, and the hardships to be en- dured.” 'The endowment provides for a warden, sub-warden, and six fellows. RELIGIOUS HOUSES. 3d RELIGIOUS HOUSES. The traces are very scanty of the Benedictine Nunnery of St. SEPULCHRE’S, founded by Archbishop Anselm, and renowned as the scene of some of the impostures of Elizabeth Barton, the Holy Maid of Kent. The site of St. Grecory’s Priory, founded by Lanfranc for Augustinian Black Canons, was in Northgate Street. Near St. Peter’s Church, on the river bank, stands the ruined pile of the Dominicans, or BLAcK Friars ; the Refectory now made use of as an Unitarian Chapel. The FRANcIScANS dwelt on the other side of the way, but there are no remains of their house. East Bripce Hosprrat, “for way-faring men,” was founded (it is said) by Thomas 4 Becket. nS. CHURCHES. NAME. BENEFICE. | VALUE. PATRON, All Saints R. £150 Lord Chancellor. With St. Mary in the Castle, and St. Mildred i: St. Alfege R. £150 |Archbishop ofCanterbury. With St. Mary, Northgate Vi St. Andrew R. | £203 | Archbishop and the Chap- With St. Mary, Bredman Kis ter alternately. St. Dunstan V. | £120 | Archbishop of Canterbury. St. George the Martyr R. | £140 |Dean and Chapter. With St, Mary Magdalen R. | St..Gregory the Great ye ... |Archbishop of Canterbury. St. Mary, Bredin iF £149 |Simeon’s Trustees. St Martin R. £300 |Archbishop and Chapter With St. Paul V. alternately, St. Margaret R. £87 Do. do. St. Peter. R. £120 Do. do. With Holy Cross Vv. The church of Hoty Cross was rebuilt by Archbishop Sudbury, 1374-81. In Sr. Dunstan’s is interred the head of Sir Thomas More. The brick gateway opposite was a portion of the house of the great statesman’s daughter, the learned Margaret Roper. Sr. Gregory's, Early English, was built by G. G. Scott. 340 CANTERBURY. THE CASTLE AND THE DANE JOHN. The Dans JoHN, or Dongon, is an elevated knoll command. ing some noble views of the Cathedral city, and its public walks have been agreeably planted. The “ Martyr’s Field” beyond was the scene of many a death for conscience sake in the dark days ot the Marian persecution. The stately Norman Keep of the Castle has been perverted to base uses, but retains its original characteristics sufficiently to interest a careful observer. Its area measures 88 feet by 80. It occupies the site of an old Saxon fortress, and is utterly without historical associations. The GuILDHALL, an old building refaced with modern brick, containing portraits and old armour ; the MusEum, with its local antiquities ; the Kent and Canrersury Hosprran with accom- modation for 100 patients ; the CLERGY ORPHANS’ CoRPORATION ScHoot on St. Thomas’s Hill; the view from St. Marriy’s HItt ; and Mastrr’s Nursery GARDENS ; these are interesting points which will doubtlessly attract the tourist’s attention. CANTERBURY to ASHFORD. By South-Eastern Railway, about 15 m. Leaving behind us the regal towers of Canterbury, and, to our right, the lofty elevation of Harbledown, we follow, with but inconsiderable deviations, the line of the ancient Watling Street, through the rich but tender beauty of the valley of the Stour, and at one mile south, pass on our left the village and church of THANINGTON (population, 385), partly within the limits of “the sacred city.” The Cuurcu, the only noticeable object in it, is Early English, and stands on the south bank of the Stour, which here pursues a tortuous course through meadows which it enlivens and enriches. It consists of a nave, chancel, and south aisle, with a low square tower curiously placed in the centre of the north side of the nave, and two rude lancet windows in the east gable. The memorials are few, but observe the brass for Thomas Hall, d. 1485, with its figure of an armed knight ; and the monuments MILTON—CHARTHAM. 341 to Lady Ann Hales, d. 1617 ; Sir Charles Hales, d. 1623 ; Millicent Rownying, d. 1612; and Thomas Hall, d.15**, A recessed tomb will be noticed in the south wall, and there is also an Early English piscina. The Church is dedicated to St. Nicholas, and was evidently built at the transition period between the Norman and Early English styles. Its vicarage, valued at £170, is in the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury. In this parish, but on the other side of the railway, and in the low ground below Harbledown, is the farmstead of TunrrorD (a farm or village ford, ¢.g., across the Stour), with some relics of the old manorial ion which was formerly moated. The gateway arch is an interesting example of Perpendicular. It led into an open quadrangle, of which the ruined walls partly remain, and shew, as does the farm-house itself, some traces of the ancient circular towers which strengthened them, and which were prob- ably built by Sir Thomas Browne of Betchworth. In the 27th of Henry VI., this worthy “comptroller and treasurer of the king’s household” obtained a license to embattle and impark, and to have free warren within the manor. At 2 miles from Canterbury we reach MILTON (population, 10), a small “location” of two houses and a church, in a re- markable picturesque country. The chalk hill starts up abruptly from the bank of the river, and carries along its crest the old Ash- ford road, whence the pedestrian may gaze upon the fair map out- spread beneath—on fields, and groves, and churches, and many a solitary grange—on the rich woodland of the Blean—on the towers of Canterbury filling up the landscape to the north, and the broad green-swarded parks of Chilham and Godmersham to the south. The Early English Cuurcn, dedicated to St. Nicholas, consists of a.small nave and chancel, with a small turret of stone at the west end. The rectory, a comparative sinecure, valued at £70, is in the patronage of M. Bell, Esq. At Horton, a little ferther south, on the bank of the Stour, is a small CHAPEL, now used as a barn; whose Decorated roof may be worth examination. The traveller by rail should stop at Chilham Station, and thence keep the high road to Canterbury as far as CHARTHAM (population, 1138), where there is a church of more than usual 343 ROUTE FROM CANTERBURY TO ASHFORD. interest, and from whose hills may be enjoyed some prospects of more than ordinary beauty. The village, a true English village, with a decent inn, is built round a pleasant green, with the church and parsonage on the south side, and a Queen-Anne-style of house on-the other, built by Dr. Maximilian Delangle, a French refugee, rector of this parish and prebend of Canterbury, d. 1724. In a niche over the principal entrance stands a bust of Charles II, with a sceptre resting on a cushion. In the rear of the vil- lage fumes and darkens a large paper mill, worked by the river Stour. } CHARTHAM CHURCH, dedicated to St. Mary, is a large and goodly building, with an Early English nave, a Decorated chan- cel, a cross aisle, and tower steeple at the west end. It has four windows on each side, enriched with the fanciful and delicate “ Kentish tracery,” noticeable at Leeds Castle and Penshurst. The trefoil moulding, which unites the interior windows, should be carefully examined, and the graceful vine-leaf border of the stained glass. The east window has four lights. In the north wall, under an Early English arch, is an ancient tomb, perhaps that of the founder. In the chancel a brass with inscription, date 1306, of a knight in armour, commemorates one of the Septvans family, and a tablet records the virtues of Dr. Delangle, d. 1724. A defaced brass in the transept formerly bore an inscription to Jane Evans, davghter of Lewys Clyfforht, squyre, d. 1530. An imposing piece of sculpture, by Rysbrach, is dedicated to the memory of Sir William Young, d. 1788, and his wife, Sarah Fagge, who died in 1746, the year in which she was married, age 18, There are numerous memorials to mem- bers of the Fagge family (of Mystole), who are recorded to have “exemplarily satisfied the ends for which they were born.” Surely no one of us can hope for a better epitaph ? The rectory of Chartham, valued at £800, is in the patron- age of the Archbishop of Canterbury. ' The Chartham Downs, rising from the Ashford road on the south, and sloping towards the Stour, are dotted with barrows, or tumult, which were opened by Mr. Faussett, and found to contain some Saxon relics, and male and female skeletons. Beyond these, the heights, from east to west, are crossed by the lines of three or four encampments. In 1668, in the course of sinking a well at Chartham, were exhumed a quantity of “strange and monstrous bones” (fossils), which gave rise to various theories, CHILHAM, 343 speculations, and hypotheses, none of which seem to have been peculiarly satisfactory. 2 Two miles south-west lies the village of CHILHAM (population of the parish, 1419), about a mile west of the Chil- ham station, on the South-Eastern Railway. (Inn: The Woolpack.) dust above the latter point rises the singular elevation, 148 feet long by 45 broad, known as Julaber’s, or, vulgarly, Juleberrie’s Grave,—a name which the romantic archeologists of the earlier days of Sylvanus Urban pronounced a corruption of “Julius Laberius.” This able lieutenant of Julius Cesar was slain in the second expedition into Britain in the fight which took place at the passage of the Stour. No skeletons, however, have been found here, and “ Julaber” may be, perhaps, identical with “ Julian’s Bower,” a name often applied to certain ancient earth- works which seem to have been the area of the Roman popular games (in honour of Julius Cesar ?). The village lies on the high ground to the west of the main road—the church and vicarage on the one side—the ancient castle and beautiful park of Chilham on the other. Noble views of the Ashford valley, of the country towards Canterbury, and the lofty range of well-wooded downs from Wye to Brabourne may here be obtained. One mile north of Chilham church spreads the picturesque heathy tract of Otp Wives’ Lzzs, with which a singular custom was formerly associated. “'The maner of Selgrave, in Faversham, having fallen to Sir Dudley Digges, he, by a codicil to his will in 1638, devised it to charitable uses, ordering that it should be let to some tenant, who should pay, over and above the quit-rents, £20 per annum, and so soon as that sum should be raised, then that the lord of Faversham, or in his absence the mayor, with the advice of four of the jurats and the lord of Chilham, or in his absence, the vicar of Chilham, with the advice of four of the best freeholders, should choose two young men and two young maidens, of good conversation, between the ages of sixteen and twenty-four, and these two young men and two young maidens, on the 19th of May yearly, should run ‘a tie at Chilham, and the young man and young maid who should prevail, should each of them have ten pounds.” We are not aware whether the cus- tom is still maintained, though, indeed, the remembrance of an apcient custom you can hardly ever root out of the heart of the 344 ROUTE FROM UANTERBURY TO ASHFORD. people. Whatever the forms of expression it assumes, whatever the disguises forced upon it by the lapse of years, the tradition never dies, but lurks in out-of-the-way corners, and slumbers awhile in unthought-of nooks, until the hour and the opportunity arrive when it can again lift up its head, and claim the popular homage. The unwritten history, indeed, has more vitality in it than the written. Huge folios sleep in venerable dust on the book-shelves of the few, when the old song and the old legend are still living in the memories and affections of the many ; and while the hypercritical expatiate on the folly of our old national customs and popular observances, which they would have us re- gard as the lumber of the past, in many a quiet village they are flourishing in all their quaintness, and claim and receive the favour and reverence of the common people. CHILHAM CasTLE—to which access is readily afforded—oc- cupied, in its entirety, about 8 acres, and was encircled by a deep fosse. The principal ruin is the (late) Norman keep, octagonal in form, with a square east turret, containing a newer staircase. It is composed of flint, chalk, and ashlar Caen stone, and is three stories high ; the uppermost appears to have contained the prin- cipal chambers. The old Early Saxon structure is traditionally represented to have been the residence of King Lucius, who was converted in 189, founded the first Christian church at Canterbury, afterwards retired to a hermitage at Coire, in the Grisons, and died in the odour of sanctity and the ripeness of years. His relics are still exhibited at Coire. By the Saxon kings of Kent it was un- doubtedly occupied and strengthened. It would seem that about 851 it was demolished by the Danes, and it remained in ruins until the Conqueror bestowed it on Fulbert, surnamed De Dover, from his post as constable of Dover Castle. It remained with his descendants until the race expired in Isabella de Dover, Countess of Athlone, who died in 1292, and was interred in the crypt of Canterbury Cathedral. The castle was afterwards in the hands of the rich Lord Badlesmere of Leeds Castle, who, having sided with Edward IJ. against Queen Isabella, was beheaded by the latter. Edward VI. bestowed it upon Sir Thomas Chene, or Cheyney, Warden of the Cinque Ports, who pulled down a great portion of the buildings, then “ not only commodious for use, and beautiful for pleasure, but strong for defence and resistance,” and employed the materials in erecting a mansion at Shurland, in the CHILHAM CHURCH. 345 Isle of Sheppey. A few years later, Sir Dudley Digges, a man of some eminence in the reigns of James I. and Charles I., becoming possessed of all the estates, commenced the erection of the present “splendid house,” and finished it about 1616. It must assuredly be regarded as an admirable example of the later Tudor style. Through the Colebrooks and the Herons it came into the hands, in 1792, of Thos. Wildman, the ancestor of J. B. Wildman, from whom it has passed to C.S. Hardy. The park, which here occupies hill and dale to a considerable extent, is very finely wooded, and enjoys some goodly views of the surrounding landscapes. CHILHAM CHURCH, dedicated to St. Mary, is a Decorated building of considerable size and pretensions, with a nave, north and south aisles, chancel, north and south side chancels—the latter consecrated to St. Anne—and tower-steeple, with beacon- turret, at the west end. One William d’Ypres bestowed this church, in 1153, upon the priory of Throwleigh, a cell of the Benedictine abbey of St. Bertin’s, in Flanders, which was sup- pressed by Henry V. His successor, Henry VI, settled it upon the famous monastery of Sion, and after the dissolution of reli- gious houses, temp. Henry VIIL, it followed the fortunes of the manor, as already described. The south chancel is the mortuary chapel of the Digges family, and will irreverently remind the tourist of the statuary exhibitions so common at the Mary-le-bone end of the New Road. An obelisk, ornamented with figures which the visitor is sup- posed to recognise as the Cardinal Virtues, was erected by Sir Dudley Digges. The pillar to Lady Digges was erected, we are informed, “in imitation of that set up by Jacob over Rachel,” though we are not aware that Sir Dudley in any respect resem- bled the Israelite patriarch. The north chancel has been rebuilt, with a still stranger perversion of taste, in imitation of a Roman columbarium, by the Colebrookes, and the inscriptions are enclosed in circular tablets. The rich arabesque work of two monuments in the north transept will interest the observer. With the sculp- ture in honour of T. Wildman, Esq., by Chantrey, he will pro- bably be disappointed. The vicarage of Chilham, valued at £800 yearly, is in the patronage of C. 8. Hardy, Esq., the proprietor of Chilham Castle. MOLASH (population, 346), a village three miles south-west 346 ROUTE FROM CANTERBURY TO ASHFORD. of Chilham, which looks out very picturesquely upon the rich woodlands of Godmersham. 'The CHuRcH, dedicated to St. Peter, is a small Early English building, with a pointed turret, a nave, and chancel, containing ancient font and some memorials of the Chapmans—pulvis Chapmannorum. GODMERSHAM (population, 424), 7. e¢, Godmer’s ham or home, enjoys one of the fairest positions in eastern Kent—wood and water, valley and hill— “ Here are cool mosses deep, And thro’ the moss the ivies creep, And in the stream the long-leaved flowers weep, And from the craggy ledge the poppy hangs in sleep.” The village adjoins GopMERSHAM Park (Edw. Knight, Esq.), a tract of finely wooded hill and dale, which has something of an Arcadian character about it. On the river bank, at a short dis- tance north from the church, stands the ancient manor-house of the monks of Christchurch, Canterbury, probably built by Prior Henry de Estria, about 1290, and afterwards largely repaired by Prior Sellyng, temp. Edward IV. The hall and most interesting portions were demolished in 1810. The doorway is built up, but the mouldings are in good preservation, and over the porch there is a well-carved effigy of a prior (Prior Chillenden ?), with his mitre, pall, and crozier, in the act of bestowing the bene- diction. The CuurcH, dedicated to St. Lawrence, has a large chancel, a nave, and low square tower. The south chantry, attached to the manors of Ford and Eggarton, contains numerous memorials. The vicarage, worth £234 per annum, is in the gift of the Arch- bishop of Canterbury. The vicarage of CHALLOCK (population, 427) is valued at £250. The Church, dedicated to SS. Cosmus and Damian, is situated at the bottom of the hill, within the shadows of the luxuriant woods of Eastwell Park, and about three-quarters of a mile from the village. It consists of a nave, north and south aisles, two chancels, and embattled western tower. The stained glass is good, but there is little left of it: "From this point the tourist may keep forward to Charing — and Smarden, through a country which we have already described, or, crossing the Stour, may traverse the pleasant space of GODMERS- WALTHAM—CRUNDALE, 347 HAM Common, and so through the woods to PETHAM (popula- tion, 630), where there is some romantic scenery, and a tolerably commodious CaHuRCcH, which its founders—the monks of St. Asyth, Essex-—dedicated to All Saints. The vicarage is annexed to that of Waltham. WALTHAM (population, 576) lies 3 miles to the south of Petham, amongst the woods, as its name, Weald-ham, indicates. Few tourists, we fancy, ever penetrate into the heart of its lone- some hills or the depth of its obscure groves, where, indeed, there is little to interest them. The Early English Cuurcn, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, has but a nave, chancel, and low pointed tower, and is without any memorials of a noticeable character. The vicarage, however, is of considerable value, £700 per annum, and is in the alternate patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury and Sir 8. E. Honywood, Bart. Let us now return to our railway-carriage, and rapidly passing by the grassy glades of Godmersham, we shall see, on our right, the pleasant hills of Boughton Aluph, and on our left the agree- able grounds of Ollantigh. Beyond the latter, on the crest of a chalky elevation, which gradually slopes towards the woods of Waltham, is situated CRUNDALE (population, 263). Here, upon Tremworth Down, have been excavated numerous relics of our British ancestors, of which the most valuable are preserved in the well-known Faussett collection. In the valley below is “a moated grange,” which retains some traces of its ancient impor- tance. The CuuRcH, which, from its position, must have been serviceable as a landmark to wayfarers in the neighbouring woods, is dedicated to St. Mary, and consists of a nave and chancel, and tower-steeple, with low-pointed turret at the top. The altar-piece was the gift of Sir Robert Filmer, in 1704. The rectory, in the eift of Sir E. Filmer, Bart., is valued at £344. [From Crundale a breezy walk may be enjoyed along the hills to HASTING- LEIGH (population, 219), a settlement of the Saxon Hastingas. The CHuRcH, dedicated to St. Mary, consists of a nave, chancel, south aisle, and square western tower. Some portions (the chancel especially) are Norman. A brass, figured with a hawk, commemorates John Halke, d. 1604. The rectory, valued at £200, is in the gift of the Archbishop of Canterbury. ELMSTED (population, 500), the place of elms, is situated about 1 mile to the north-east. The village borders upon a small green, with the Courou, a handsome Early English building, dedicated to St. James, placed on the rising ground. The east window has some ancient stained glass. In the north chancel remark the white 348 ROUTE FROM CANTERBURY TO ASHFORD. marble monument and bust of Sir John Honeywood, d. 1781. In the south chancel are several brasses, which our space forbids us to enumerate, and a tomb, despoiled of its effigies, bearing an inscription in Old English letters :—‘** Pray for the sowlles of Xtopher Gay, Agnes and Johana his. wyfes, ther chylder and all Xtian sowlys, on whose sowlys thu have mcy.” The vicarage, worth only £80, is in the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury.] Passing through Wye Station (see p. 168), we soon leave Kennington on our right, and, at about 14 miles from Canter- bury, cross the river Stour. To our left lie two villages, of which brief mention must be made. BROOK (population, 120), on a tributary of the Stour, and HINXHILL (population, 135), on the high ground rising out of Ashford valley. The former has a small Norman CuHurRcH, dedicated to St. Mary, with a nave, chancel, and low square western tower. ‘The rectory, in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of Canterbury, is valued at £200. HINXHILL CHURCH is also dedicated to St. Mary, but has a nave, chancel, north and south aisles, and low spire steeple at the west end. The monument, with figures, to Robert Hdolph, d. 1631, and his wife Cicely Browne, is in excellent preservation. The heirs of the late Sir J. C. Honeywood have the patronage of the rectory, which is valued at £187. Ashford is duly noticed at p. 166. CANTERBURY to FAVERSHAM. Ascending the high ground, after quitting Canterbury, we soon reach—by a difficult and winding roada—HARBLEDOWN (population, 646), immortalized by Chaucer as ‘A little town, Which that ycleped is Bob-up-and-down, Under the Blee in Canterbury way,” and anciently written HERBALDOWN, in allusion to its grassy downs and hills. The village originally clustered round the lazar-house or Hospital of St. Nicholas, but now stretches up the ascent which is crowned by the church. At this point, as Mr. Stanley remarks, the pilgrims were wont to compose themselves into a befitting solemnity of aspect, and Chaucer’s last story, which is narrated here, is in fact a sermon. The view over the valley to Canter- bury is unusually grand, and its towers rise against the cold gray HARBLEDOWN. 349 sky with a stateliness not unworthy the great cathedral of Pro- testantism. The white line of the Pegwell Bay cliffs may be traced in the distance, conspicuously enclosing the purple ocean shadows. There, then, Augustine landed ; here he preached, and _ prayed, and builded—an Epopezea, which might surely warm the genius of a Christian poet. On St. Thomas’s Hill, immediately beyond the churchyard, stands the rich Decorated pile of the ScHooL FoR ORPHAN Sons OF THE CLERGY, recently erected, from the designs of Mr. Hard- wicke, and both externally and internally deserving no stinted commendation. The ancient Hospital, or Lazar-House, to which we have in- cidentally referred, and which, with its characteristic gateway and ivy-shrouded church, forms so picturesque an object on the right of the Faversham road, was founded by Archbishop Lan- franc in 1066, and dedicated to St. Nicholas. Near at hand is a well, which has always been supposed to possess medicinal qualities, and is now called “the Black Prince’s Well,” from a tradition that its water was sent to him as he lay sick in the Archbishop’s palace at Canterbury. The hospital has been lately rebuilt, and its antiquity sorely meddled with. But the church remains, with its Norman pillars, arches, and doorway. A chest in the hospital-hall contains a bowl of maple, figured with Guy of Warwick’s famous victory over the Dragon, bound with a brazen rim, and inlaid in the centre with a piece of rock crystal, and a rude box, with a chain to be held by the hand, and a slit for money in the lid, at least as old as the sixteenth century. When pilgrims, on their way to Canterbury, approached this hospital, “an aged almsman” would descend its steps, bestow upon them a shower of holy water, and then present “the upper leather of a shoe, bound in a brass rim, with a crystal set in the centre.” Thus it happened to Erasmus and his companion Dean Colet. But when the shoe was offered to the latter to kiss, he angrily exclaimed, “What is this for!’ and was informed that it was “the shoe of St. Thomas.” Colet, in his indignation, cried out, “What! Do these asses expect us to kiss the shoes of all the good men that have ever lived? Why, they might as well bring us their dung or their spittle to be kissed ” Erasmus, however, compassionated the old man, and bestowed a small coin upon him, perhaps in the very box which, with the identical fragment of Becket’s shoe, is still preserved at Harbledown. 350 CANTERBURY TO FAVERSHAM. Having been largely endowed by successive archbishops, the hospital-grounds now maintain a master, fifteen brethren, and fifteen sisters “in the house,” and the same number as out-door pensioners. This hospital, at first, was called “the Hospital of the Forest of Blean,” but the wood has now receded, like a gloomy sea, to the lower lands. On its outskirts stood the archiepiscopal gal- lows (furcas)—a terror to all evil-doers in the hundred of West- gate. HARBLEDOWN CHURCH,, dedicated to St. Michael, stands on the brink of the hill, and from its quiet “ God’s Acre” the tourist may survey, at his leisure, the wide-spreading and richly-change- ful landscape. It is an Early English building, with a nave, chancel, and pointed turret at the west end. Two or three of the memorials are ancient, but they are none of any special interest. The rectory, in the patronage of the Archbishop of Canter- bury, is valued at £500. A little beyond Harbledown there stands back from the road, on the left, a pretty Tudor “ villakin”—as John Wilkes would have called it—interesting as the residence of the “ bucolic artist,” Sidney Cooper, Esq., R.A. The landscapes here are of peculiar interest, and in the full glory of a good “ hopping-time” have a certain Italian character which the tourist will not fail to re- cognize. The road now winds through Bossenden Wood, a part of the ancient forest of the Blean, belonging to the see of Canterbury. A gate on the right, opening into its leafy depths, is called CoURTENAY’S GATE in commemoration of the unfortunate fanatic, “Sir William Courtenay, knight of Malta, and Earl of Devon- shire ”—born John Nichols Tom, at Truro—who was shot here, with eight of his dupes, in May 1838—so inact terminat- ing a career of romantic imposture. Beyond it, at the bottom of the hill, lies “ the ville” of DUN- KIRK (population, 685), with its small church and excellent schools, dating from 1839, the year after Tom’s wild Kentish outbreak. It owes its origin to a body of squatters who, about a century and a half ago, found shelter here (the ground being then extra-parochial), just as suspicious or suspected persons might locate themselves in a “free port” like Dunkirk. Hence the name. BOUGHTON-LE-BLEAN. 351 Descending Boughton Hill—(notice the glorious panoramic prospect which it overlooks)—we find ourselves i in the village of BOUGHTON-LE-BLEAN (population, 1469, where the Canter! bury pilgrims were overtaken by the servant of the wealthy eanon, who was so potent an alchymist, we are told, that— “All the ground on which we be riding, Till that we come to Canterbury town, ’ He could all clean turn upside down, And pave it all of silver and gold.” The village covers both sides of the high road for some distance, and on its outskirts cluster numerous orchards and hop-gardens. It is watered by two little rivulets, which well up in the green sward of the neighbouring woods. Beyond these, on higher ground, rises the stately pile of Nas Courr (Mrs. Lade) the seat of the Hawkins family from the reign of Edward Ili. It was plundered by a riotous Protestant mob in 1715. The high road forms the south boundary of the paddock. The CHuRcH, dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, is about a quarter of a mile distant from this point. It is mainly Early English, and consists of a nave, north and south aisles, chancel, and side chancels or chapels. Observe the brasses to John Col- kins, d. 1405, and John Best, and Joan, his wife, d. 1508. The monument to Thomas acokene of Nash Court, d. 1588, aged 101, records that he excelled his contemporaries in stature and strength of body, and that he was much favoured by Henry VIIL, “the gracious prince” whom he diligently served. The Hawkins memorials are numerous. The vicarage, valued at £420, is in the gift of the Archbishop of Canterbury. Just beyond the village, but before the grounds of Nash Court are reached, the pedestrian will observe a turning to the right which leads (13 mile) to HERNE HILL (population, 657). The CHurRcH, dedicated to St. Michael, may be seen from the Boughton road, and is a neat Perpendicular building, with a nave, chancel, north aisle, and tower steeple. ‘The nave is separated from the aisle by clustered shafts of Bethersden marble. In the churchyard lies interred the Canterbury enthusiast, “ Sir William Courtenay.” The Archbishop of Canterbury presents to the vicarage, which is reputed to be worth £292 yearly. 352 FAVERSHAM, One and a half mile beyond Nash Court, on the road to Faversham, which here turns off to the right from the Canter- bury road, we reach PRESTON (population, 1135)—z.¢., Priest- town —anciently belonging to the monks of Christ Church, Canterbury. The CHurcu, dedicated to St. Catherine, is a notice- able object from the high road, and is at no great distance from the Faversham station. It is an Early English building, with a nave, chancel, and south aisle; some fragments of stained glass ; and brasses to Valentine Barret, d. 1440; Hunnola Lee, d. 1440 ; and William Mareys, esquire to Henry V., d. 1470. A monument at the east end of the aisle, with effigies kneeling at a desk, com- memorates Thomas Finch, d. 1615, and Bennett Maycott, his wife, d. 1612. _ 456 A DAY IN ANCIENT ENGLAND. the best of his way to the hill whereon Richborough raises its ruined walls, and which, from a surprising distance, afford a most conspicuous landmark. The level which we traverse before commencing our ascent was probably, in the days of the Roman dominion, covered with water. Richborough, indeed, remained a port until early in the seventh century. St. Augustine landed there in 597, but in 665 Wilfred of York, on his return from the Continent, put into the harbour of Sandwich, an indication, ‘we think, that the sea was already receding from the former port. Rutupize was undoubtedly a town of considerable impor- tance ; one of the most important Roman stations on the south- east coast ; and the landing-place (“ statio tranquilla”) for pas- sengers from Boulogne (Bononia). There are numerous allusions to it in the Latin poets. Lucan speaks of the raging seas which seethed and fretted on the Rutupine coast (“ Rutupina que litora fervent”), and Juvenal refers to the superior flavour of its oysters (“ Rutupinove edita fundo”). The uncle of Ausonius was buried here (“ Contentum, tellus quem Rutupina tegit”), and it was long prosperous and peaceful under the government of his brother-in- law, Flavius Sanctus (“ Preside letatus quo Rutupinus ager”). From hence extended the great Roman road—the “ Watling Street” of the Saxons—through Canterbury and Rochester to London, and thence to Segontium, on the northern coast of Wales. At the beginning of the fifth century it became the head-quarters of the Second Legion. Even after the withdrawal of the Romans it did not fall into decay, but continued a favourite port until the recession of the waters effected its destruction. “Saxon coins have been found at Richborough, not only of the earliest description of Anglo- Saxon money called sceatias, but of Saxon kings down to so late a date as the middle of the ninth century, which prove the con- tinuous occupation of the site till that period.” - The finest portion of the existing ruins is the NorTHERN WALL, 440 feet long, and varying in height from 10 to 30 feet. When perfect, its length was 560 feet, and its height about 32. The “facing” is extremely perfect, and presents an imposing example of Roman masonry, consisting of regular layers of squared stones, with bonding courses of red and yellow tiles, of the form constantly found in Roman building. “ The first of these bonding-courses commences at about 5 feet from the original foot of the wall, and they are repeated upwards at distances varying ; RICHBOROUGH. or Ab7 from 3 feet 3 inches to 4 feet 3 inches. On this side the wall had been overgrown with large masses of ivy, some of which remains, but much has been cut away, and thus many peculiari- ties of the building, not previously observed, have been exposed to view. In the interior the facing of the wall appears to have been composed entirely of flints, arranged in regular layers, with single bonding-courses of tiles. The walls are, at the bottom, between 11 and 12 feet thick, and diminish slightly towards the top”—( Wright). Of the South Watt about 260 feet remain standing. The WESTERN WALL was, when complete, 460 feet long. In the centre is the grand entrance, or Decuman Gate, and beyond it stand the remains of a square tower. At the south-west angle remains the foundation of another tower, and a tower may also be seen in the south wall. “These towers were solid to the ex- tent of nearly 8 feet from the foundation, hollow in the centre, and united to the-main wall again at the top. It is probable that they contained a room, with loopholes for watchers.” The postern in the northern wall is well constructed, and the wall itself is there 10 feet 8 inches thick. On the east side the fort was protected by no artificial defences, but by the cliff alone, at whose base winds the river Stour; but there would seem to have been a return wall, at the north-east corner, which ran down under the cliff, and protected the road leading to the landing-place. Nearly in the- middle of the area of the Castrum we have ' been describing may be observed the base of a building in the form of a cross, rising somewhat above the level. This cruciform structure rested on a foundation of masonry, 5 feet thick, 145 feet long, and 104 feet wide. Its “shaft” ran north and south to a length of 87 feet, and was 7 feet 5 inches broad. The arms extended 46 feet, and their breadth was 22. Beneath it was discovered, in 1822, a remarkable subterranean building (132 feet by 94), whose uses it is impossible to conjecture, and which has never yet been fully examined. ‘The cross above is called “St> Augustine’s,” from some traditionary remembrance, perhaps, of King Ethelbert’s reception here of that great missiou- ary-priest. “Such are the remains of the citadel of the Roman town of Rutupiz, the principal port of entrance into Britain in the days of the Ceesars. That it was far more splendidly ornamented than 458 ; A DAY IN ANCIENT ENGLAND. the present bare and shattered walls might lead us to suppose is proved by the great quantity of pieces of white Italian marble which have been found in excavating ; some being flat slabs which seem to have been fitted on the surface of walls, others carved into cornices, mouldings of columns, and other ornaments. Many of these were found about the platform in the interior ; others seem to have been carried away from their original site, and were found in the excavations for the railway. These latter works also laid bare part of the foundations of a Roman house or villa, which seems to have stood upon the beach.” The town itself probably extended to the west and south of the citadel, whose completion or renovation, by the way, has been attributed to the illustrious Stilicho. On the highest part of the hill, about 460 yards from the south-west corner, a hollow in the ground marks the site of the Roman AMPHITHEATRE. It was elliptical in shape, and walled all round. The entrances were on the north, south, and west sides. The length is put at 200 feet ; the breadth at 166. A skeleton, the bones of an ox, some iron nails, and forty-three coins have been found here. From this elevation “a fair view” is commanded. The cliffs of Boulogne are visible across the Channel; and the Reculvers may be seen on the shore of the widening estuary of the Thames. A winding river, grassy meads, quiet villages nestlmg among leafy shadows, and many a goodly farm and tranquil ne ee fill up the extended landscape.* The road from Rutupia to its sister fortress REGULBIUM (Reculver) is a very pleasant one, but needs no particular descrip- tion here.. The distance does not exceed 9 miles, and those nine miles include an agreeable breadth of meadow-land, fertilized by the Stour and numerous water-courses. Regulbium is mentioned in the Motct7a, and in the Jéinerary of Antoninus. It was garrisoned in the early part of the fifth century by the first cohort of the Vetasii (Brabantois), and erected for the protection of the northern coast of Thanet. The Want- some here emptied itself into the sea. Of the walls of the ancient castrum the south and east are yet standing, but much shattered and crumbled, and thickly covered with ivies and lichens, mosses, grasses, wild fig-trees, and elder berries. The * For fuller particulars consult Mr. C. R. Smith’s “ Antiquities of Richborough, Reculver, and Lymne,” Boys’ “ History of Sandwich,” and Wright’s Wanderings of an Antiquary.” “RECULVER. 459 entire area would seem to have included eight acres. The prin- cipal entrance was in the centre of the west wall, and the walls appear to have been about 12 feet thick, and built of flints and pebbles, mingled with layers of septaria. Leland tells us that the castrum stood at a distance of half a mile from the sea, but in 1780 the encroaching waters had crept up to its very margin, and a fall of the cliff brought down the whole of the north wall. An artificial rampart of stones and heavy wood in piles now affords a partial protection to this part of the coast, but, accord- ing to Sir Charles Lyell, the sea still gains upon the land, - between the Reculvers and the North Foreland, at the rate of 2 feet per annum. Regulbium, in due time, was occupied by the Saxons, who called it RacuLF-CHASTRE, now corrupted into RecuLver. It was here that King Ethelbert, after his conversion and baptism by St. Augustine, took up his abode, and built himself a palace out of the ruins of the Roman fortress. The tradition ran that he was buried here, though he was really interred in St. Augustine’s, Canterbury. A minster was erected in 669 by Bassa, “a mass priest,’ who had obtained a grant of Reculver from King Egbert. Both the monastery and the manor were conferred (A. D. 949) by Edred, at the instigation of St. Dunstan, upon the monks of Christ Church, Canterbury. In the monastic CHURCH were embodied some portions of a Roman building, which, after a long period of neglect, have recently been restored, but the church itself, notwithstanding its remarkable interest, was pulled down by the parishioners in 1809. Fortunately the corporation of the Trinity House interfered before the work of destruction was quite completed, and saved the two western towers, known as “the sisters,’ and of some importance to ‘mariners as a landmark. To these towers attaches a pathetic legend :—“ Frances St. Clare, lady-abbess of the Benedictine nuns at Faversham, being visited by a violent sickness, vowed that in the event of her recovery she would visit the shrine of the Blessed Virgin at Bradstow (Broadstairs, see p. 293), and there present a costly offering in gratitude for the Virgin’s intercession on her behalf. In accordance with this vow, she embarked on the 3rd of May, the feast of Holy Cross, accompanied by her sister Isabel, for whom she entertained the warmest affection, but they had not been at sea two hours ere a storm arose, which drove the vessel on a sandbank near Reculver. Part of the crew and 460 SHEERNESS AND THE ISLE OF SHEPPEY. passengers, including the abbess, succeeded in reaching the shore in a boat, but Isabel, who had remained on the wreck till a boat | was sent from shore to the rescue of the remainder, suffered so severely from cold and exhaustion that she died the following day. To -perpetuate her memory, as well as to warn mariners against the recurrence of similar calamities, the abbess caused the church towers, then much decayed, to be repaired, and two spires to be added, which she directed should be named ‘ the Sisters.’” The beach below the towers is strewn with bones from the churchyard. Hasted intimates that the town formerly extended as far as “the Black Rock,” now some distance out at sea, and strange memorials—odd, quaint, household relics—are frequently discovered at low tides. ‘The fact of a whole town thus engulfed in the ocean is something difficult for the mind to conceive, and the traveller looking forth upon the wild sweep of waters, will perhaps be inspired with a similar fancy to that which Douglas Jerrold so characteristically describes. “ We are apt to dream,” he says, “that the said market town has only suffered ‘a sea- change, and that fathoms deep the town still stands, that busy life goes on, that people of an odd, sea-green aspect, it may be, still carry on the work of mortal breathing, make love, beget little ones, and die.” The village of Reculver (3 miles from Herne, and 9 miles from Margate) has a fine flavour of antiquity about it, and at its hostelry, the “ Ethelbert’s Arms”+—what a famous old world sign it is !—decent accommodation may be procured by the not fastidious tourist. He may then return to Margate or Herne at his pleasure, and plunge again into busy modern life, after a day full of interest and emotion in “ancient England.” EXCURSION.—SHEERNESS AND THE ISLE OF SHEPPEY. (See p. 370). [Routrs.—From Lonpon: by London, Chatham, and Dover Railway (Sitting- bourne and Sheerness branch). Or from Srroup, by the Medway Company’s Steam- boats. Or from SirrinczouRne, by road, crossing the Swale by ferry. Or, from GRAVESEND and T1ILBury, by Steam-packets (in the summer season only). } The ISLAND of SHEPPEY (Sceapzge, sheep, a Saxon version of its earlier appellation ; Jalata, from the British molht, a sheep), ISLAND OF SHEPPEY. 461 lies at the junction of the Thames and Medway, the former river washing it on the north, and the latter on the west. Its insula- tion is completed on the south and east by an arm of the sea, called the Swale, where St. Augustine, on Christmas day a.p. 597, baptized 10,000 converts, and which is now traversed by the vast iron bridge of the Sittingbourne and Sheerness railway. Its length, from north-west to south-east, is about 10$ miles ; its breadth, from north to south, about 4. Including the penin- *sulas, formerly islands, of Elmley and Harty, its circumference is 30 miles, its area 18,000 acres, and its population 13,000 souls. It comprises seven parishes,— Pop. Minster (including Sheerness, p. co 15,964, to the north-west. Queenborough f 3, », south-west. Eastchurch . ; : 996, ,, east of Minster. Warden. ¢ ‘ : 47, -,, extreme east. Leysdown . . ; ; 215, ,, south and east. ’ Harty ; : ‘ : 159, ,, southof Leysdown. Elmley . : ‘ : 140, between Harty and Queenborough 18,494 The cliffs (London clay) on the north side are from 60 to 80 feet high, but are rapidly crumbling into decay, and yielding to the rapid encroachments of the sea. They terminate eastward in Warden Point, the “Land’s End” of Sheppey. Southward, the land slopes into fertile pastures protected from inundation by stout sea-walls. “They abound with fat cattle, are dotted all over with substantial farm-houses, and shew every here and there the remarkable mounds, called the Coterells, which, thanks to local tradition, call to mind Hasting ahd the Northmen ; a tradi- tion highly probable, but, as far as we know, still to be tested by _ opening some of them.” The high ground in the centre of the island is pleasantly enriched with wood. Numerous fossils may be found on the beach east of Sheer- ness: “stems and branches of trees, and fragments of wood, per- forated by tendines ; specimens of the fruits of palms, resembling the recent nzpas of the Moluccas (the nipas are low, shrub-like plants, having the general aspect of palms, and growing in marshy tracts at the mouths of great rivers ; the fruit here found is known as * petrified figs’), of plants allied to the cucumber, bean, cypress, laburnum, etc. ; claws and fragments of the shields of crabs ; por- tions of the carapaces of turtles, teeth of sharks and of rays, several / r 462 SHEERNESS AND THE ISLE OF SHEPPEY. species of the usual shells of the London clay, and an occasional Hence it may be inferred that in the pre-historic period numerous islands, such as now form the Eastern Archipelago, studded the vast estuary which then covered “the London district,” and bred the spice tree and the palm, nourished the boa-constrictor, and gathered on their wooded shores the turtle and the shark. Communication with the mainland is kept up by three public ferries : from Sheerness to Faversham road,—from Harty to Oare, —and from Elmley to Tong. “ King’s Ferry” has been super- seded by the Sittingbourne railway, whose bridge is rendered available for foot and horse passengers. “ The general aspect of Sheppey,” says a recent writer (Gentle- man’s Magazine, September 1860), “ is, to our eyes at least, a very pleasant one. Its ridge of high land, along the north coast, com- mands views from sea to sea. Its highest point is crowned by a church, the mutilated remains of Sexburga’s Minster (see post), which is seen from almost every part of the island, carrying the mind back to the times of the Heptarchy, whilst in the low grounds may be seen the numerous smooth green elevations, the coterells, where probably repose many of its Northman destroyers. A double one, of much larger size than the rest, close to the gate that divides Eastchurch from Harty, is a remarkable object from many points. Bright inlets of the sea, here termed fleets, bring hoys and other small sailing vessels, far into the southern parts, and a wharf is no uncommon appendage to the farm-yard. Well cultivated fields, with handsome timber in the hedges,. forming often shady lanes that would delight the painter, are the charac- teristic of the north of the island. Much of the land is occupied as market gardens, or for growing to contract valuable crops (as canary or mustard) for the London seedsmen. Indeed, Sheppey wherever arable land is found, is emphatically the region of high farming, and no one but a wealthy tenant can long ‘hold land there. Consequently the farms are yearly getting larger and larger, and holdings of 1000 acres are not uncommon. Asa natural result, the hedges and water-courses are all kept in the best order, the fields are clean, and every farm officestestifies to the well-to-do condition of the agriculturist. Steam machinery appears every here and there ; the fences and gates and vehicles are kept so freshly painted as to seem always new, and the well- fed horses are ordinarily decorated with coloured fringes to their SHEERNESS. 463 harness. But better than this, the cottages of the labourers look much more comfortable than is always the case in high-farmed districts. Some modern ones are of brick, but the generality are of wood, which is the common material even of substantial farm- houses. Many of these have a foundation and a few feet of lower wall of brick, but the upper part is of wood, often painted black on one face and white on the other. Several of the farm- houses occupy the site and retain the name of ancient manor- houses; as Neats Court, near Queenborough, once a portion of the dower lands of Henrietta Maria ; Dandeley, which belonged to the Admiral, Lord Thomas Seymour ; Shurland, near East- church, the stronghold of Sir Robert Shurland, warden of the Cinque Ports in the reign of Edward I., whose remarkable tomb is at Minster; and a fine old mansion, also near Eastchurch, which belonged to Livesay, the regicide, who was twice sheriff of Kent under the Commonwealth. “Farming and fishing are the chief occupations in Sheppey, but one of its old manufactures, that of eopperas, which was noticed at Queenborough Castle by Lambarde nearly three cen- turies ago, is still continued, on a limited scale. Lime-burning is pursued at Queenborough to supply the agriculturists with the needful dressing for their heavy clay soil, and Roman cement is manufactured extensively from the septaria, or masses of indu- rated clay, that supply the well-known post-pliocene fossils of the island.” ‘The ordinary route for visitors to Sheerness is by rail. The line crosses the Swale at King’s Ferry, leaving Milton, the castle of Hasting, the Danish jarl, and Tong Castle, the scene of Vorti- gern’s betrayal by the beautiful Rowena, on the right. Queen- borough Station is a noticeable structure of red and yellow brick. The railway then runs onward, almost parallel with the sea-wall, to Sheerness, crosses the moat, and, within the range of certain grim looking guns, enters the Sheerness Station. SHEERNESS (population, 14,286.—Jnns: in the Blue Town, the Fountain; in the Mile Town, the Royal, and Wellington) is a considerable town, with two principal divisions, quaintly named BiuE Town and MiLE Town, and two suburbs, stretching along the northern shore, Banks Town, and Marina. The latter are opposite the noted oyster beds which yield the genuine “natives,” have a good beach, a handsome row of houses called 2 464 SHEERNESS. Crimea Terrace, hotels, and public gardens. Blue Town is within, and Mile Town without, the garrison limits. Four wells of un- usual depth supply Sheerness with good water—a commodity not over plentiful in Sheppey. In sinking them, the labourers met with a subterraneous forest, through which they could only pene- trate by the agency of fire. ‘Fhe Pier is 3000 feet long. Sheerness was occupied by the Dutch on their ascent of the Medway in 1667, but since that disaster its importance has been recognized by the Government, and extensive fortifications now protect it. The Royal Defences’ Commission recommended further and important works, which are being rapidly carried out. > The DockyARD is of course the great attraction of Sheerness. t occupies 60 acres, and is surrounded by a wall of brick, built at a cost of £40,000. There are two small basins and one large basin, capable of accommodating six large men-of-war. The Storehouse is six stories high, and can receive 30,000 tons of stores. Numerous vessels are always lying here in ordinary, and the spectacle at all times is animated and magnificent, but as dockyards in their details closely resemble one another, we may possibly be allowed to abridge our description. A walk along the cliff, eastward, brings us to MInstTER, where a fine old CHurcn, dedicated to Saints Mary and Sexburga, is well worth a visit. A monastery was founded here in 673, in honour of Sexburga, the widow of Ercombert, king of Kent, which supported seventy-seven nuns. The Danes, in their predatory incursions, destroyed it. Archbishop Corboil restored it in 1130, and placed in it a body of Benedictine nuns. At the Dissolution its spoils fell into the hands of Sir Thomas Cheney. Of the monastic buildings only the GATE-HOUSE and, perhaps, the CHURCH | remain, though some authorities contend that the latter was not connected with the abbey. It contains the effigy of.a knight, exhumed in the churchyard in 1833, the tomb of Sir Thomas Cheney, and that of Sir Robert de Shurland, temp. Edward L., with his effigy in armour, and, above it, a horse’s head projecting from the wall above. The animal seems to be swimming, with his nostrils almost touching the waves. This curious memorial is attempted to be accounted for by an old legend :—“ He is said to have come to the churchyard of Minster one day, and seen a crowd gathered around a priest beside an open grave. Inquiring the cause, he was told that the priest refused to per- form his office without payment, on which the knight drew his — SHEERNESS, 465 sword, at one sweep took off the priest’s head, and tumbled him into the grave. Whether service was performed over the two corpses we are not informed, but it seems the knight retired to his stronghold in Eastchurch, and thus kept out of harm’s way for a while until he heard that the king was sailing by the island, when he determined to venture out and solicit pardon. He mounted his favourite horse, galloped down the cliffs, where no one dared to follow him, and spurring his charger into the sea, swam off to the king, who readily promised his pardon on condition of his swimming back again. He reached the shore in safety, and was patting his horse, when a witch approached and told him that the animal which had that day saved his life, would yet cause his death. The knight, as we have seen, was prompt in resolve, and to defeat the prophecy he killed his horse on the spot. Some time after, he was walking on the beach, when he kicked against what he took to be a stone, but it was.the skull of his ill-requited charger; he had broken it by the blow, a piece of the bone pierced his foot, and he died, only living time enough to direct that his steed should share his monument with him. The story is old, but it was related a very short time ago, with every appearance of belief, by the person who shewed the church.” Another explanation is, how- ever, offered. Sir Robert was lord of the manor, and had the privilege of claiming all the waifs, and strays, and wrecks upon the shore which he could touch with his spear, after riding into the sea, at low tide, as far as possible. The brasses of Sir John and Lady de Northwode, of North- wode, in the parish of Eastchurch, demand a careful investiga- tion. They have been figured in the Messrs. Wallace’s elaborate work. The next parish to Minster is that of EastcHurcu. The village mainly consists of one street, with the Cuurcn, dedicated to All Saints, at the west end of it, girded round by a belt of neatly painted water-butts, to catch the invaluable rains of heaven. Observe the tomb and effigies of Gabriel Livesay, d. 1622, and his wife,—the parents of Livesay, the regicide. The church at one time belonged to the Cistercian Abbey of Dunes (on the Flemish coast), but was afterwards transferred to Boxley, as “a, Becompense for entertaining visitors to England of ‘the Cistercian order.” We pass through a pleasantly wooded lane, all green ae 2 1 466 SHEERNESS. - ieafy, to WARDEN, and its Caurcu, dedicated to St. James, —a small building repaired and rebuilt, about thirty years ago, with stone from Old London Bridge. From the falls of cliff continu- ally occurring here, its position has become exceedingly insecure. Lryspown has a small and mean-looking CHuRoH, dedicated to St.Clement. Just beyond, the cliffs terminate, and the shore trends away to the low sands of SHELLNESS PornT, where James II. was seized (12th December 1688) on his attempted escape from England. (See Macaulay, chap. x.) EtMury has an important manufactory of cement, and there is a considerable extent of fertile grazing land, Some large plantations have been recently made here, and the CaurcH has been rebuilt. The whole district has a significant air of business and prosperity. “ Harty has no village, and but a poor small Caurcn, dedi cated to St. Thomas. The whole parish is portioned out amongst a few large farmers. At QUEENBOROUGH, a castle, for the protection of the inhabi- tants of Sheerness, was built by order of Edward IIIL., under the superintendence of the illustrious William of Wykeham. It was called “ Queenborough,” in honour of Philippa of Hainault. Henry VIII. repaired it in 1539, during his “ fortification mania ;” but it fell into ruins in the time of the Commonwealth, and its site is now only commemorated by the ancient moat. The castle well remains, and is held in considerable estimation, -——the water in Sheppey being usually brackish and unwhole- some. Thus we conclude our perambulation of Sheppey,—an island which is well calculated to afford the tourist an agreeable ‘summer-day’s excursion.” INDEX. ee OS Axssry Woop, 64 Adisham, 264 Aldington, 184 Alkham, 231 All-hallows, 374 Allington, 120, 180; Castle, 134; Church, 134 All Saints’ .Church, Birchington, 292; Boxley, 186; Brenchley, 446; Bur- marsh, 200; Chillenden, 263; Hast- church, 465; Foot’s Cray, 409; Frinds- bury, 81; Graveney, 357; Hartley, 881; Hollingbourne, 138 ; Lydd, 204 ; Loose, 145; Maidstone, 125; Orping- ton, 410; Petham, 347; Snodland, 114; Stourmouth, 298 ; Uleombe, 150; Wastbeer, 300; Waldershare, 235; West Farleigh, 129; Whitstable, 304 ; Wouldham, 112 All Saints’ College, 123 Anne Boleyn, Residence at Hever, 428 Appledore, 180 Archbishop’s Palace, Remains of, Can- terbury, 338 Archbishop’s Palace, Maidstone, 124 Arden of Faversham, Story of, 353 Arsenal, Woolwich, 33 Ash, 274 Ashford, 166 Ashgrove, 407 Aspringe, 360 Aylesford, 115 ; Church, 120, BADLESMERE, 358 Badmonden, 447 Bardens, 437 Barfriston, 235 Barham, 237 Barking Church, 35 Barming, 129 Battle Hall, 142 Bayford Castle, 367 Bayham Abbey, 444 Beachborough, 190 Beacon Hill, 38 | | Beckenham, 415 Becket, Murder of, 189 Beckley, 411, 452 Bedgebury Park, 449 Beechmont Park, 468 Bekesbourne, 245 Belmont, 359 ; Castle, 30 Beividere, 37 Bethersden, 165 Betshanger, 261 Beult Stream, 161 Beverley Park, 305 Bexley, 38 Bidborough, 437 Bifrons, 244 Billingsgate, 6 Bilsington, 179 Birchington, 292 Bishopsbourne, 241 Bishops of Rochester, 96 Blackheath, 27, 57 Blackwall, 27 Blean, 3805 Boar Place, 431 Bobbing, 370 Borden, 369 Boreshill, 431 Boughton-Le-Blean, 351 Boughton Malherbe, 151 Bourne Park, 243 Bowles’s, L., Lines on the Cliifs of Dover, 209. Boxley, 120, 186; Abbey, 184; House and Park, 136 Brabourne, 185 Bradsole Abbey, 207 Brastead, 424; Park, 423 Bredgar, 366 Bredhurst, 370 Brenchley, 446 Brenzett, 205 Brickwall Park, 451 Bridge, 243 Broadstairs, 293 Brocklyn, 136 468 Bromley, 27, 413 Brompton, 107 Brook, 348 Brookland, 205 Broome Park, 237. Brunswick House, 63 Buckland, 230 Burham, 114 Burmarsh, 200 Bersted Green, 121 Byron’s Lines on Churchill, 222; on Dover, 210 Cate HI, 163 Camden Place, 411 Canterbury, 307; Pilgrimage, 314; Ca- eae 318 ; Churches, 339 ; Castle, Canvey Island, 877 Capel-Le-Ferne, 232 Capgrave, 447 Casner, 380 Castle Toll, 173 Caverns in "Dartford Heath, 68 Caxton, William, Birthplace of, 172 Chalk, 79; Pits at Chiselhurst, "412 Challock, 346 ; Church, 158 Charing, "155 ; Palace, 156 Charlton, 61, 230, 243 ; Horn Fair, 62; House, 73 Chartham, 841 Chart Lodge, 408 Chart Magna, 164 Chart Sutton, 147 Chatham, 101; Lines, 102; Dockyard, 103 Chelsfield, 410 Chelston, 152 Cheriton, 190 Cherry Garden Farm, 62 Chevening, 421 Chiddingstone, 430 Chilham, 343 ; Castle, 344 ; Church, 345 Chillenden, 263 Chillington House, 125 Chipstead Place, 423 Chiselhurst, 411 Chislet, 299 Christ Church, Herne Bay, 303 ; South- end, 57 Churchill, Charles, Grave of, 221 Cliffe, 76, "8175 Cobham, 47; Church, 54; College, 55; Hall, 49 Colbridge Castle, 153 Coldred, 234 Colingwood Lodge, 450 Colliers’ Hill, 184 Combe Lodge, 164 Comberbank, 423 Copt Point, 194 Cosenton, 120 Cosynton, 120 Cottingham Manor, 259 Court-at-Street Chapel, 199 INDEX. Courtenay’s Gate, 350 Court Lodge, 483 Cowling 875; Castle, 375 Coxheath, 146 Cranbrook, 449 Crayford, 38 » Crocken Hill, 383 Crockham Hill, 425 Cromlechs at Aylesford, 116 Crundal, 347 Cuckold’s Point, 9 Cudham, 420 Curfew Bell, 248 Custom House, London, 7 Cuxton, 111 DANE JoHn, The, Carterbury, 340 Darent, The, 65 Dartford, 65 ; Church, 67; Priory, 65 Daundelion, 293 Davents, 113 * Davington, 362 Deal, 252 Dungeness, 204 Denne Hill, 239 Denton, 233, 237 Deptford, 11 Detling, 137 Dickens’s, Charles, Country House, 81 Dimchurch, 201 ; Wall, 200 Dixter, 451 Dockyard, Woolwich, 30 Doddington, 361 Dover, 208 ; Castle, 215; Churches, 228 Down, 420 Dunkirk, 350 EASTBRIDGE, 206 Eastchurch, 465 Fast Farleigh, 128 East Guildford, 182 East Langdon, 248 Hastry, 261 East Sutton, 148 Eastwell, 158 ; Park, 158 East Wittering, 611 Ebbe’s Fleet, 277 Ebony, 174 Edenbridge, 425 Edward the Black Prince, 333 Ellington, 295 Elmley, 466 Elmsted, 347 Elmstone, 298 Eltham Church, 72 ; Palace, 68 Eridge, 445 ; Castle, 445 ; Rocks, 445 Erith, 36, 65 Ewell, 233 Eynsford, 383 Eythorne, 235 FAIRFIELD, 181 Fair Rosamond’s Tower, 186 Farleigh, 128 Farnborough, 419 INDEX. 46 Farningham, 38, 382 Faversham, 352 ; Church, 355 Fawkham, 381 Fiddler’s Reach, 39 Folkestone, 191; Castle, 192 Foot’s Cray, 409 Ford Palace, 302 Fordwich, 300 Foreland Lighthouses, 248 Forsham Farm, 173 Fort Clarence, 103 Fort Pitt, 103 Fredville House, 239 Friary, The, 118 Frindsbury, 81 Frinstead, 362 Frittenden, 450 Frognal, 412 Gav’s Hi11, 79 Gallow’s Green, 171 George II., Statue at Greenwich, 18 Gillingham, 108 Godard’s Castle, 137. Godington, 164 Godmersham, 346; Park, 346 Goodneston, 263 Goodnestone, 356 Goodwin Sands, 257 Gore Court, 143 Gorsely Wood, 241 Goudhurst, 448 Grange, The, 109 Graveney, 357 Gravesend, 41 Gray’s Thurrock, 39 Great Bayhall, 446. Great Bound’s Park, 437 Great Mongeham, 259 Greenhithe, 39 Greenway Court, 138 Greenwich, 15; Hospital, 17; Park, 21 Green Street Green, 419 Grench, The, 109 Guildford Battery, 219. Gunston House, 263 Guston, 246 HACKENDOWN BANKS, 294 Hackington, 305 Hadlow, 434; Castle, 434 Hale’s Place, 305 Halling, 112 Hall Place, 432 ~ Halstead, 420 Ham, 266 Ham Street, 179 Hanging Wood, 61 Harbledown, 348 Harbour of Refuge, Dover, 226 Harley Tower, 294 Harrietsham, 154 Hartley, 381 Hartlip, 371 Harty, 466 Vo) Hastingleigh, 347 Hawkhurst, 450 Hawkwell, 446 Hay Cliff, 207 - Hayes, 417 Headcorn, 161 Heman’s, Mrs., Lines on the Cliffs of Dover, 209. Hemming’s Bay, 293 Hengist and Horsa, Landing of, 277 Henry IV., Tomb of, 335 Heppington, 245 Hermitage, The, 120 Herne, 301 Herne Bay, 303 Herne Hill, 351 Herschel, Sir John, Residence of, 450 Hever, 425; Castle, 426 Higham, 76 High Elns, 419 High Halden, 170 High Halston, 374 Hill Park, 423 Hinxhill, 348 Hoath, 299 Renee William, Journey to Graves- end, 3 ; Holborough, 113; House, 114 Hollingbourne, 138 Holwood Hill, 418; House, 419 . Holy Cross Church, Goodneston, 263 Holy Garden, 114 Holy Innocent’s Chureh, Addisham, 264 Holy Trinity Church, Dartford, 67; Gravesend, 41; Milton, 368 Hoo, 374 Horne Farm, 180 Horne’s Place, 111 Horsemonden, 447 Horton, 341 Horton Kirby, 381 Hothfield, 163 ; Place, 164 Hougham; 206 Huggin’s College, 40 Hurst, 200 Hutchinson, Colonel, Imprisonment in Sandown Castle, 256 Hythe, 195 IcKkHAM, 265 Ide Hill, 423 Iden, 174 Ifield, 380 TIgtham Moat, 408 Ingoldsby, Scene of the Legend of Sir Giles de Tappington, 237 Ingress Abbey, 38 Isle of Dogs, 10 Isle of Grain, 377 Isle of Thanet, 276, 285 JACK CADE’S FIELD, 164 KEMSING, 393 Kennington, 168 470 Keston, 418 Kilndown, 448 King John’s Adventure with the Miller of Charlton, 10 King John, Place where he resigned the Crown, 232 Kingsdown, 249, 361 Kingsgate, 294 King’s Grammar School, Canterbury, 837 Kingsnorth, 179 Kingstone, 240 Kit’s Coty House, 116 Kippington Park, 408 Knockholt, 421 Knole, 395; House, 398 Knowlton, 262; Park, 262 Lavy Joanna Thornhill’s Charity, 169 Langley, 147 Langley Court, 415 Langridge, 113 Lea, 27, 61 Leaveland, 359 Lee Priory, 264 Leeds, 188; Castle, 140 Legend of the Lone Tree, 246: Legend of Our Lady of Gillingham, 109 Legend of Sir Giles de Tappington, 237 Legend of Thunor’s Leap, 281 Leigh, 377 Len Stream, 148 Lenham, 153; Stream, 143 Lesnes Abbey, 64 Lewisham, 27, 57 Leysdown, 466 Lillechurch House, 76 Limehouse Reach, 9 Linton, 146; Church, 147; Place, 146 Littlebourne, 265 Little Charlton, 148 Little Chart, 163 Little Mongeham, 259 Little Waterend Farm, 233 London Bridge, 5 London Docks, 8 Lone Tree, Legend of, 246 Longfellow’s Lines on Wellington, 251 Longfield, 380 Loose, 145 Losenham, 173 Lovelace, 165 Lower Halston, 871 Lower Hardres, 241 Luddenham, 363 Lullingstone, 383 ; Castle, 384 Lydd, 203 Lydden, 234 ; Spouts, 207 Lyminge, 187 Lymne, 198 Lyttleton Villa, 63 MAIpstToneE, 120, 369 Maison Dieu Hospital, 224 Manston Court, 296 INDEX. Margaret Finch, Queen of the Gypsies. Burial-Place, 416 Margate, 288 Marsh District, 203 Martyrs’ Field, 340 Maze Hill, 62 .- Medway, 121 Meopham, 379 Mereworth, 435; Park, 435 Mersham, 183 Midley, 205 Military Canal, 195 Milkydown, 190 Milstead, 361 Milton, 341, 368 Milton Church, 43. Minster, 280, 464; Court, 282 Mirefleur, 24 , Moat’s Bulwark, 219 Molash, 345 Monkton, 296 * Montreal, 407 Moreden College, 60 Mote, The, 143 Mottenden, 161 Museum, Chatham, 103 Museum, Maidstone, 125 Musketry, School of, Hythe, 196 NACKINGTON, 245 Nash, 142 Nash Court, 351 Nelson, Relics in Greenwich Hospital, 19 Newchurch, 206 New Cross Station, 57 Newenden, 173 Newington, 190, 370 Newnham, 361 New Romney, 201 Nonington, 239 Norfolk College, 26 Northam, 451 “ Northbourne, 260 ; Court, 260 North Crag, 409 Northfleet, 40 North Foreland, 295 North Hope, 39 Norton, 360 Norton Place, 148 Norwood, 27 Nursted, 379 OaARE, 356 Obelisk to George IV. at Ramsgate, 254 ~ Observatory, Greenwich, 24 Old Court Hall, Dover, 225 Old Romney, 202 Old Wives’ Lees, 343 Ollantigh, 168 Orgarswike, 200 Orlestone, 179 Orpington, 410 Osengall Down, 452 Otford, 392 Otham, 143 INDEX. Otterden, 155 Our Lady of Gillingham, Legend of, 109 Ouse Viaduct, 562 Oxney Court, 249 ; Island, 182 PADDLESWORTH, 188 Patrixbourne, 244 Pegwell Bay, 295 Pembury, 446 Penenden Heath, 121, 136 Penshurst Place, 385 Peter the Great, Reminiscences of, 12 Petham, 347 Pevington, 162 Plaistow Lodge, 415 Plantagenet’s Well, 160 Playden, 175 Pluckley, 162 Plumstead, 63 Point Cavern, 60 Pool of the Thames, 5 Postling, 186 Pound’s Bridge, 437 Preston, 298, 352; Hall, 119 Prospect Tower, 37 Purfleet, 38 QUEENBOROUGH, 466 Queen EHlizabeth’s College, 26 Queen Hlizabeth’s Oak, 452 Queen Elizabeth’s Pocket Pistol, 219 RatnuaM, 873 Ramsgate, 283 Rapchild, 365 Ravensbourne River, 419 Reculver, 458 Redleaf, 432 Regulbium, 458 Religious Houses, Canterbury, 339 Richard Watt’s Hospital, 99 Richborough, 456 Richmond’s Shaw, 190 Ringwould, 249 Ripley Court, 157 Ripple, 250 River, 231 Rochester, 84; Castle, 86; Cathedral, 91; Priory, 98 Rodmersham, 366 Rolvenden, 173 Roman Potteries, 372 Romney Marsh, 202 Rosherville, 40 ; Gardens, 41 Rotherhithe, 8 Rotunda, Woolwich, 31 Royal Artillery Barracks, 33 Royal Military Academy, 82 Ruckinge, 179 Rusthall Common, 438 Rutupiz Roman Citadel, 456 Rye, 175 St. ALBAN’s Court, 240 St. Alphege Church, Greenwich, 26; Seasalter, 304 471 St. Andrew’s Cathedral, Rochester, 91 St. Andrew’s Church, Buckland, 230; Knowlton, 262 ; Sibertswold, 236 ; Til- jnanstone, 262; Wickham-Breux, 265 St. Andrew’s Priory, Rochester, 98 St. Anthony’s Church, Alkham, 231 St. Augustine, Landing of, 279 St. Augustine’s Church, Brookland, 205 ; East Langdon, 248; Northbourne, 260; Snave, 205 St. Augustine’s College, Canterbury, 338 St. Bartholomew’s Church, Bobbing, 370 ; Goodnestone, 356 ; Oxford, 393 ; Southend, 57; Waltham, 347 St. Blaize’s Well, 414 St. Bololph’s Church, Lullington, 384 St. Botolph’s Church, Chevening, 422 St. Catherine’s Church, Kingsdown, 361; Preston, 352 St. Catharine’s Hospital, 100 St. Clair’s Chapel, 176 St. Clement’s Church, Leysdown, 466; Old Romney, 202 ; Sandwich, 273 St. Clement’s Reach, 38 Sts. Cosmus and Damian, Church of, 305 St. Dunstan’s Church, Cranbrook, 449 ; Fey each 181, 205; West Peckham, 3 St. Eadbury’s Well, 187 St. Hanswitha’s Church, Brenzett, 205 St. HKanswitha, Church of, Folkestone,192 St. Edilberga’s Well, 187 St. Edith’s Church, Kemsing, 393 St. Eustace’s Well, 169 St. Faith, Chapel of, 124 St. George’s Church, Beckenham, 415 ; Deal, 257 ; Gravesend, 41; Ham, 267 ; Ramsgate, 285 St. eae Church, Kingston, 241; Tong, 386 St. Gregory and St. Martin, Church of, Wye, 169 St. Helen’s Church, Cliffe, 376 St. James’ Church, Cowling, 375; Dept- ford, 13; Dover, 224; Elmsted, 347; Gravesend, 41; Isle of Grain, 378; North Cray, 410; Sheldwick, 358; Staple, 263 ; Warden, 466 St. John’s Church, Deptford, 13 ; Hall- ing, 113; Ickham, 265; Margate, 290 ; Woolwich, 30 St. John’s Hospital, Sandwich, 271 St. John the Baptist, Church of, Bar- ham, 238; Doddington, 361; Eltham, 72; Harrietsham, 154; Meopham, 379; Mersham, 183; Penshurst, 431 ; Tunstall, 366; Wittersham, 174 St. Katherine’s Docks, 8 St. Lawrence, 295 St. Lawrence’s Church, Allington, 134; Bidborough, 437 ; Challock, 346 ; God- mersham, 346; Hawkhurst, 450, Hougham, 207; lLeaveland, 359; Mereworth, 4385; Otterden, 155; Rap child, 365 472 INDEX. St. Leonard’s Church, Badlesmere, 359 ; Deal, 257; Hythe, 196 St. Luke’s Church, Charlton, 61 St. Margaret’s-At-Cliffe, 247 St. Margaret’s Bay, 248 St. Margaret’s Church, Barming, 130; Bethersden, 166 ; Halstead, 420 ; High Halstow, 875; Horsemonden, 447; Tfield, 380; Lee, 61; Lower Halstow, ae ; Rochester, 100 ; Womens-Would, 39 St. Mark’s Church, Rosherville, 40 St. Martin’s Church, Aldington, 184; Brastead, 424; Cheriton, 190; Det- ling, 137; Eynsford, 883; Herne, 301; Mongeham, 259 ; Wootton, 236 St. Martin’s Priory, Newark, 222 St. Martin’s-Le-Grand, Ruins of, 221 St. Mary’s, 201, 374 St. Mary-in-Castro, Church of, 219 St. Mary and St. Kdilberga, Church of, Lyminge, 187 St. Mary and St. Sexburga, Church of, Sheerness, 464 St. Mary’s Church, Ashford, 167; Bar- ‘Triston, 236 ; Betshanger, 261 ; Bishops- bourne, 242; Brabourne, 185; Brook, 348; Burham, 115; Capel-Le-Ferne, 232; Chalk, 79; Chatham, 107, 342; Chelsfield, 410; Chiddingstone, 431 ; Chilham, 345 ; Chislet, 299 ; Crundal, 847; Dover, 224; Hastwell, 160 ; Ebony, 174; Fawkham, 381; Ford- wich, 301; Frittenden, 450; Goding- ton, 165 ; Goudhurst, 448 ; Greenwich, 26; Hadlow, 434; Hastingleigh, 347 ; Hayes, 417; Higham, 77; High Hal- den, 171; Hinxhill, 348; Horton- Kirby, 382 ; Hothfield, 164 ; Kenning- ton, 168; Langley, 147; Lenham, 154; Lewisham, 57; Little Chart, 163; Lower Hardres, 241; TLuddenham, 363; Leydden, 234; Minster, 281; Nackington, 246; Newington, 371; Northam, 451; Norton, 360; Orles- tone, 179; Patrixbourne, 244; Post- ling, 187; Ripple, 250; St. Mary’s Cray, 409; Sandwich, 272; Sellinge, 185, 358; Smeeth, 183; Speldhurst, 437 ; Stanford, 186; Stalisfield, 360 ; Stelling, 241; Stone, 181; Sutton Valence, 148; Tenham, 363; Thorn- ham, 138; Upchurch, 373; Walmer, 251; Westerham, 424; Westwell, 157; Willesborough, 182; Wingham, 275 ; Woodnesborough, 267 St. Mary Magdalen, Church of, Cobham, 54; Davington, 362; Denton, 237; Gillingham, 108; Longfield, 380; Monkton, 296 ; Ruckinge, 179; §tock- bury, 369 ; Woolwich, 30 St. Mary’s Cray, 38, 408 St. Matthew’s Church, Warehome, 180 St. Michael’s Church, Chart Sutton, 148 , Cuxton, 111; Harbledown, 350 ; Hart- lip, 371; Herne Hill, 351; Kingsnorth, 179; Playden, 175; Sittingbourne, 867 ; Smarden, 162 ; Throwley, 359 St. Mildred’s Church, Nutstead, 379; Preston, 298 ; Tenterden, 171 St. Nicholas-at-Wade, 296 St. Nicholas’ Church, Ash, 274 ; Chisel- hurst, 411 ; Deptford, 13; Leeds, 142; Linton, 147; Milton, 341; Newington, 190 ; New Romney, 202 ; Otham, 143; Pluckley, 162; Plumstead, 63 ; Ring- would, 249; Rochester, 100 ; Rodmers- ham, 366; Rye, 177; Sandhurst, 450; Sevenoaks, 394; Southfleet, 380; Stroud, 78; Sturry, 300; Thanington, 340 St. Nicholas’ Hospital, Harbledown, 349 St. Oswald’s Church, Paddlesworth, 188 St. Pancras’ Church, Coldred, 234 St. Paul’s Cray, 409 St. Paulinus, Church of, 409 St. Peter’s, 297 St. Peter’s Church, Aylesford, 120; Bekesbourne, 245; Bredhurst, 870; Bridge, 243 ; Deptford, 13; Hever, 425 ; Keston, 418; Pembury, 446; Molash, 345; Newenden, 173; Oare, 356; River, 231; Sandwich, 273; Stoke, 374; Swingfield, 232; West Cliffe, 247 ; Whitfield, 249 St. Peter and St. Paul, Church of, Apple- dore, 181; Aspringe, 360; Bilsington, 179; Borden, 369; Boughton-Le- Blean, 351; Bromley, 415; Charing, 156; Charlton, 230; Cudham, 421; East. Sutton, 149; Edenbridge, 425 ; Ewell, 233 ; Eythorne, 235; Farming- ham, 382; Headcorn, 161; New- church, 206; Newnham, 361; Salt- wood, 189; Shadoxhurst, 170 ; Shore- ham, 384; Sutton, 250; Tunbridge, 434; Upper Hardres, 241 ; Word, 267 St. Radigund’s Abbey, 207 St. Saviour Church of Greenwich, 26; Lee, 61 St. Stephens, 305 ; Church, 306 St. Stephen’s Church, Lymne, 199 ; Tunbridge, 432 St. Thomas’ Church, Charlton, 62; Harty, 466 ; Woolwich, 3) St. Thomas’ Hospital, Sandwich, 271 St. Thomas’ Well, 54 St. Vincent’s Church, Littlebourne, 26& St. Warburgh’s Church, Hoo, 374 Saltwood, 188; Castle, 188 Sandgate, 194 Sandhurst, 450 Sandling Park, 189 Sandown Castle, 253 Sandwich, 268 Saye’s Court, Site of, 12- School of Musketry, Hythe, 196 Seot’s Hall, 183 Seasalter, 304 INDEX Selling, 358 Sellinge, 185 Sevenoaks, 394 Sevington, 183 Shadderden, 170 Shadoxhurst, 170 Shakespeare’s Cliff, 207 Sheatham, 27 Sheerness, 463 ; Dockyard, 464 Sheldwick, 357 Shellness Point, 466 Sheppey, Isle of, 460 Shepway, or Shipway Cross, 200 Shinglewell, 380 Sholdon, 259 Shooter’s Hill, 27, 34 Shoreham, 384; Castle, 884; Place, 384 Shorncliffe, 194 Shorne, 79 Shottenden Hill, 358 Sibertswold, 236 Sir John Falstaff Inn, 81 Sissinghurst, 449 Sittingbourne, 367 Smarden, 161 Smeeth, 183 Snargate, 181, 205 Snave, 205 Snodland, 113 ; Church, 114 Somerhill, 436 Southborough, 419 Southend, 57, 3877 Southey’s Lines on Pensharsi, 385 Southfleet, 380 Speldhurst, 437 Spelmonden, 447 Spring Grove, 168, 446 Squerries, 423 Stalisfield, 360 Stanford, 186 Staple, 263 Starkeys, 112 Stede Place, 154 Stelling, 241 Stockbury, 369 Stodmarsh, 299 Stoke, 374 Stonar, 276 Stone, 181; Churcn, 38 Stone End, 204 Stonewall Park, 431 Stourmouth, 298 Strood, 77; Park, 302 Sturry, 300 Sundridge, 423 ; Park, 414 Surrenden-Dering, 163 Sutton, 249 Sutton-at-Hone, 38 Sutton Barn, 369; Castin, 148 Sutton Valence, 148 Swingfield, 232 Taxrsot Inn, 316 Tankerton Tower, 3043 Tappington, 237 a a a RS 473 Tenham, 363 Tenterden, 171 Thames, The, 5; Tunnel, 8 Thamington, 340 Thomas a Becket, Murder of, 311; Tomb of, 330 Thorne’s Description of Dover, 229 Thurnham, 137 Three Barrow Down, 236 Throwley, 359 Thunor’s Leap, 281 Ticehurst, 484 Tilbury Fort, 46 Tilmanstone, 262 Tivoli Gardens, 291 Tong, 864; Castle, 365 Toniford, 341 Tovil, 126 Tower of London, 7 Trinity Church, Greenwich, 26; Mav. gate, 291; Woolwich, 30 Tufton Place, 451 Tumford, 341 Tunbridge, 482; Castle, 433; Priory, 434; Wells, 438 Tunstall, 366 Tye, 561 ULcomBge, 150 Underhill, 190 Upchurch, 371 Upnor Castle, 81 Upper Hardres, 241 VANBRUGH House, Site of, 25 Vicars, Captain Hedley, Tablet to, 416 Victualling Offices, Deptford, 11 WALDERSHARE, 235; Parl, 234 Walmer, 251; Castle, 251 Waltham, 347 Warden, 466 Warehome, 180 Welling, 35 Westbeer, 300 West Cliffe, 247 Westenhanger, 185 Westerham, 424 West Farleigh, 129 West Hythe, 200 West India Docks, 10 West Langdon, 248 West Mailing, 436 West Peckham, 435 Westwell, 157 Whitebait Fishery, 27 Whitfield, 249 Whitstable, 303 Whorne’s Place, 111 Wickham-Breux, 265 Wilderness Park, 407 Willesborough, 182 Will House, 451 Wilmington, 68 | Windmill Hill, 44 2H 2 474 Wingham, 275 Witchling, 362 Withersden, 169 Wittersham, 174 Wolfe, General, Birthplace of, 424 ; Resi- dence of, 63; Grave and Monument, 26 Womens-Would, 239 Woodnesborough, 267 Woolwich, 29; Arsenal, 833; Dockyard, 30 INDEX. | | Wootton, 236; Court, 236 Word, 267 Wordsworth’s Lines on Dover, 209 Worth, 267 Ween: 112; Church, 112; House 2 Wyatt, Sir Thomas, 131 Wye, 168 YPRES TOWER, 177 “THE MOUND). A ys ' (institution . 5 . INSTITUTION } =i =e Dm 2G | on Alex ao ae Middle oii erandre Ch i APE Ley Sea Rejach ee MOUTH OF WOG AR THAME me Hast Cant Se ae Girdler Light Seki sud tao oy ie F i iss athoms Line ae flats an ) we Up batans Tine ee "Made ; ci — Spartard,.-. Ase gs ~ © x es ser a Sp Ve 3 ite ei 2 “Bast oF Margate Road e Gh awe ; bast: forse Charne, ~~ I ee ci I} 2 Ee AY SE Ano \C Ds ble-of Har Ppprelress Ey fi ole 2 \ Sy di Pignelo. | Spat geh ‘Gull Stream ‘ Tight Vessel je ¥ iy Yaliner Castle Kings down / i South Saf) ight 2 | | \ ae f f. areg sbr\ ae as Ae Neckth 7; ine =o i _N f] Ff \ SS ngtiel Ls DY [ J ; LES = ind fl Ce ot ope ey Ea a SF (Alkh, NOH ( pee : South Foreland ( : _ AC. f F Cy NH S é z j a a. dgllen. y Os ER Spring Tides Rise l9 Feet iE STONE | Spring Tidps HT @, "Rise 20 Fret 1 Patna or rittle Stamey | ape g Romney Dungeness | | | | | | ay * East Road | ce iQ wee | +e +> x + | RCONSS Si) WON gib- g | Great Store _ Seale of Miles _——— — = —————— | o 1 2 3 * 5 6 ef 8 TBartholomew,Edin® ADVERTISE ENTS Arranged Alphabetically according to Locality. THORNTON & CO. PATENTEES AND MANUFACTURERS OF REGISTERED WATERPROOFS., For TOURISTS,* SPORTSMEN, LADIES. “The Celtic” Ventilating Waterproof. 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A 2 ABERDEEN, IMPERIAL AO (NEAREST FIRST-CLASS HOTEL TO THE RAILWAY STATION) ABERDEEN, Personally Patronised by their Princess Beatrice, Royal Highnesses Prince and Princess Christian, The Duke of Edinburgh, Prince Frederick Charles of The Duke of Connaught, Prussia, Prince Leopold, and other distinguished Visitors, The only one in Aberdeen expressly built from the Foundation as a First-Class Hotel, and for which purpose the entire Building is expressly occupied. THE IMPERIAL HAS LATELY BEEN ENLARGED AND REFURNISHED. HE IMPERIAL HOTEL is well known for its home comforts, and is without exception the only First-class Hotel in Aberdeen. Address—The Manager. To ANGLERS.—Gentlemen are Boarded at Moderate Rates during the Spring and Autumn Fishing Season. ABERDEEN. E|H il JA : fray | iPr i i mit i | Ta) i) ae a A UW Ni q rok aiiiliy 3 ae B taia ees Ss meat Perce Union Street and Bridge Street, ABERDEEN. One Hundred Yards from the Station and overlooking the Open and Ornamental space of Denburn Gardens. One of the largest, most recently erected, and best appointed Hotels in Scotland. Hotel Omnibus and Porter attend the arrival of all through Trains. HANDSOMELY FURNISHED DRAWING-ROOM, WITH CHICKERING GRAND PIANO. (Under the Patronage of the Courts of Europe.) CHARLES MANN, Proprietor and Manager. 4 ABERDEEN—ABERYSTWITH. ABERDEEN. THE FORSYTH HOTEL 90 TO 104 UNION STREET. First-Class, combined with Moderate Charges. M. & E. WALKER. DEESIDE HYDROPATHIG ESTABLISHMENT, HEATHCOT, near ABERDEEN. HE Climate of Deeside is the healthiest in Scotland. Residents at this Establish- ment have the privilege of preserved Salmon and Trout Fishing in the River Dee, as it runs through the Estates of Heathcot and Ardoe. The Turkish and other Baths are constructed with all the latest improvements necessary for the practice of Hydropathy. Terms per week, £2, 10s. ; for two having same Bedroom, £2 each. wre particulars’ apply to Dr. Stewart, Medical Superintendent, Heathcot, near Aberdeen. ABERYSTWITH. QUEEN'S HOTEL. HIS Hotel is situated on the Marine Terrace, facing the sea, and con- tains several Private Sitting Rooms, Coffee Rooms, Ladies’ Drawing Room, Library, and all its Bedrooms are pleasantly situated. Table d’Hote at 6.30 o’clock during the Season. Arrangements made for Families. TARIFF ON APPLICATION. W. H. PALMER, Proprietor. ABERFELDY—ASHBURTON, 5 ABERFELDY. BREADALBANE ARMS HOTEL, One minute's walk from the Station. ITUATED at the entrance to the Glen and Falls of Moness, and Birks of Aberfeldy, this Hotel is the best centre from which to visit the most magnificent scenery in Scotland. Coaches run daily in connection with Loch Tay Steamers. Post Horses and Carriages of all descriptions. Salmon and Trout Fishing on a beautiful stretch of the Tay, and Trout Fishing on Loch-na-Craig, both with use of Boat Free. OMNIBUS AWAITS ALL TRAINS, Orders by Post or Telegraph punctually attended to, ALEXANDER NICOL, Lessee. ASHBURTON, DEVON. GOLDEN LION HOTEL. E. JNO. SAWDYE, Proprietor. | MSS Hotel, the principal one in the Town, is replete with every convenience for the comfort of Tourists and Travellers. It contains spacious Suites of Private Apartments, has an extensive Garden attached, and is in the immediate neighbourhood of the finest of the Dartmoor Tors, Haytor Rock, the Buckland and Holne Chase Drives, the upper reaches of the celebrated river Dart, and some of the most picturesque of the world-famed Devonshire Scenery. Post Horses and Carriages of every description. Excellent Trout and Salmon Fishing may be had in the neighbourhood on payment of a small fee. Particulars can be obtained on application to the Proprietor of the Hotel. 6 ABERFOYLE—-BALLATER—BANAVIBE. ABERFOYLE. BAILIE NICOL JARVIE HOTEL. JAMES BLAIR, Proprietor. Tou RISTS ano FAMILIES will find every comfort at this Hotel, which has recently been altered and enlarged. Itis situated at the Starting Point of the New Road for the Trossachs and Loch Katrine, and a short distance from Aberfoyle Station. In the neighbourhood are the Famous Trouting waters of Loch Ard and Loch Chon, on which Mr. Blair keeps boats for the use of Anglers and Pleasure Parties. Coaches are run daily during the season to and from the Trossachs and Loch Katrine and connect the steamer there with the trains at Aberfoyle. Post and Telegraph Offices within two minutes’ walk of the Hotel. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. BALLATER, INVERCAULD ARMS HOTEL UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT In connection with the Invercauld Arms Hotel, Braemar. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES, COACH TO BRAEMAR DAILY ON AND AFTER 1st MAY, (By Special Appointment Posting Master to the Queen.) M ‘GREGOR. BANAVIE, N.B. LOCHIEL ARMS HOTEL. Western Terminus of Caledonian Canal Steamers. JOHN MENZIES, Proprietor. Largest, finest, and most conveniently situated Hotel on this Tourist Route. Bren Nevis.—The only Hotel whose windows possess a full view of the Mountain. FAMILI£S BOARDED. POSTING. Telegraphic Address—MENZIES, BANAVIR. NV. B.—Passengers from South leave Steamer at Corpach only, where Mr. MacBrayne’s Omnibuses await the arrival of Passengers for Banavie, free of charge, BANGOR FERRY—BATH. W UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT. Se rnae LSS THE GEORGE HOTEL. HIS high-classed and old-established Hotel and Posting House is beautifully situated on the banks of the Menai Straits, close to the Suspension and Tubular Bridges, and will be found the most central Hotel for visiting the various places of interest in North Wales. BILLIARDS. LAWN TENNIS. MopDERATE CHARGES, Omnibus meets Trains at Bangor Station. Table d’Hote daily at 7 p.m., 4s. 6d. WM. DUDLEY DANCE, Manager, BATH. Ceres tO TEL. THe OLpEst EstaBLISHED and most CENTRAL for Families, Private and Commercial Gentlemen. NIGHT PORTER. JOHN RUBIE, Proprietor. BATH——BELFAST—BERWICK——BETTWS-Y-COED, "YORK HOUSE, BATH. HIS first-class Hotel for Families and Gentlemen is most centrally situated, close to the Post-Office, the Parks, Assembly Rooms, Mineral Water Baths, etc. Table d’héte at separate tables. Public Rooms; also Suites for Families. Tariff moderate. L. ASHCROFT, Proprietor. Also at St. Vincent’s Rocks Hotel, Clifton. BELFAST. THE IMPERIAL HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS. BEST SITUATION. Omnibuses meet all Trains and Steamers. W. J. J URY, Proprietor. BERWICK- ON- TWEED. KINGS ARMS HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE. FOR FAMILIES AND COMMERCIAL GENTLEMEN. The Hotel Omnibus meets the Trains from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. JOHN CARR, Proprietor. BETTWS-Y-COED, NORTH WALES. WATERLOO HOTEL, Close to the Waterloo Bridge, and a few minutes’ walk From the Railway Station. LAWN TENNIS. BILLIARDS. FISHING. Posting. Excellent Stabling and Lock-up Coach-Houses. Aheet= Proprietor runs the Daily Return Coaches between Bettws-y-Coed, Llanberis, and Beddgelert. Seats can be secured at the Waterloo and Gwydyr Hotels, Bettws-y-Coed, the Padarn Villa and Dolbadarn Hotels, Llanberis, and the Royal Goat Hotel, Beddgelert. A WELL-APPOINTED OMNIBUS ATTENDS ALL TRAINS. TARIFF OF CHARGES ON APPLICATION TO L. B. McCULLOCH, Proprietor. BETTWS-Y-COED—BIDEFORD. 9 - BETTWS-Y-COED. ROYAL OAK HOTEL. HIS Celebrated Hotel has an unrivalled situation, and is very suitable as a centre from which the most beautiful scenery in North Wales may be visited. It is near the Station, to which it has a private road. The coaches for Llanberis, Beddgelert, and Bangor start daily from the Hotel. AN OMNIBUS MEETS EVERY TRAIN. FISHING TICKETS FOR ALL THE NEIGHBOURING RIVERS. Billiards. Lawn Tennis. POSTING. FIRST-CLASS STABLING. KE. PULLAN, Proprietor. BIDEFORD, NORTH DEVON. TANTONS HOTEL. ot fein old-established and comfortable Hotel has recently been enlarged, consisting of Bedrooms, Bath Room, Lavatories, and a splendid Billiard Room. It is situated near and commanding Magnificent Views of the River Torridge and surrounding scenery. Families will find this the best and most convenient Hotel for breaking their journey to and from Clovelly, Westward Ho! and other places of interest. Private Suites of Apartments. Coffee, Commercial, and Billiard Room. Posting and Livery Stables. Omnibus to all Trains. W. GIDDIE, Proprietor. 10 BLAIR-ATHOLE, i if ——— —_ BLAIR-ATHOLE. ATHOLE ARMS HOTEL. Adjoining the Railway Station. OW one of the largest and best appointed Hotels in the Highlands, THE SrrvaTion is unequalled as a centre from which to visit the finest Scenery of the PERTHSHIRE HIGHLANDS, comprising KILLIECRANKIE ; Locus TumMMEL and RannocH ; GuEn TILT ; BRAEMAR ; the Fatits or Bruar, Garry, TUMMEL, and FENDER ; DUNKELD ; TayMouTH CastTLE and LocH Tay; the Grounps of Barr Caste, etc. This is also the most convenient resting-place for breaking the long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland. TABLE D’Hére daily during the season in the well-known magni- ficent Dintna Hatt, with which is connected en swite a spacious and elegantly furnished Drawine Room. Special terms for Board by the week, except during August. Tariff on Application. THE Postina DEPARTMENT is thoroughly well equipped. Experienced Guides and Ponies for Glen Tilt, Braemar, and Mountain Excursions, Telegraphic Address—HotTEL, BLATRATHOLE. D. & P. T. MACDONALD, Proprietors. BLAIRGOWRIE—-BOURNEMOUTH, 11 BLAIRGOWRIE. QUEEN’S ee HOTEL. Established Half a Centwry. [HE above long-established and first-class Hotrt has recently been much enlarged and improved, so that Families, Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen will find in it every comfort and attention. Blairgowrie is on the shortest and most direct route to Braemar and Balmoral, the drive to which is very grand, passing Craighall (General Clerk-Rattray), one of the most picturesquely-situated mansions in Scotland. Post Horses and Carriages of every description, with careful Drivers. Charges strictly Moderate. Coaches to Braemar early in July. Passengers booked at the Hotel. An Omnibus waits all Trains. D. M‘DONALD, PRopRIETOR, Orders by Post or Telegram for Rooms, Carriages, or Coach seats, carefully attended to. BOURNEMOUTH. “ADEN COURT,” DURLEY GARDENS. AMILY Boarding House. Attention to general comfort. Superior Beds, Lovely views, close to sea and pine woods. Near Bathing beach and West Railway Station. Inclusive terms from Two Guineas per week. There are a few private Suites. Address—PROPRIETOR. BOURNEMOUTH. NEWLYN’S ROYAL EXETER HOTEL. Patronised by the Royal Families of Europe. HIS Old-Established Hotel, which is of world-wide reputation, has been Extensively Enlarged and Refurnished, and is now undoubtedly one of the Finest in the South of England. Its Position, Accommodation, Appointments, and Cuisine are unrivalled. Proprietor, HENRY NEWLYN, Many years Manager of Guards’ and other noted London Clubs. ‘* Remarkably quiet and select,” etc., ete.—Court Journal, 22d June 1878. BOURNEMOUTH. LANSDOWNE HOTEL. For Families and Gentlemen. EAUTIFULLY situated on East Cliff, close.to celebrated Pines, Sea, and principal Railway Station. Home comforts. Excellent Cuisine. Choice Wines. Terms Moderate.—Billiards. Posting. N.B.—A Char-a-bane for the New Forest, ete., starts from the Hotel daily during the season. J. W. COLLINS, Proprietor. 12 BOURNEMOUTH—BOWNESS. BOURNEMOUTH. HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT. Proprietor, JAMES OSBORNE, M.D. PLENDID SEA VIEWS. Sixty Bedrooms. Billiards. Also Lift. House Heated throughout. Apply Dr. OSBORNE. BOURNEMOUTH. Patronised by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. ROYAL BATH HOTEL. ‘*A really splendid and unique Hotel, thoroughly homely and com- fortable, with the luxuries of a Private Mansion. * * The ONLY HOTEL on the EAST CLIFF. The CLIFF par excellence.”—Court Journal, 16th August 1879. Established 1835. Rooms Reserved on receipt of Letter or Telegram. BOURNEMOUTH. GLENFINNAN. IRST-CLASS Boarding-House, Priory Hill, Bournemouth. Command- ing position upon the High Cliff, with due south aspect. Unrivalled Sea Views. Near the Pier, Churches, Pleasure Grounds, &c. Elegantly furnished throughout. Noble reception rooms. Billiard Room, &c. Excellent Cuisine. TZerms Moderate. Boarding by the Day. Address—THE PROPRIETOR. BOWNESS, WINDERMERE. CROWN HOTEL, Patronised by Royalty and American Presidents. ITUATE in extensive grounds, imme- diately overlooking the Lake. Families boarded by the week or month. Coaching =~ and Posting toall parts daily. Omnibuses and Servants attend arrival of all Trains and Steamers. Tennis Court. Billiards. Hot and Cold Baths. ' Table d’Héte daily. Charges Moderate. W. GARNETT, Proprietor. BRAEMAR (see also p. 14)—BRay. 13 THE INVERCAULD ARMS, The finest Hotel situation in Scotland. Recently re-erected after Plans by J. T. Wimpxris, Esq., Sackville St., London. MAGNIFICENT DINING HALL, ELEGANT LADIES’ DRAWING ROOM, AND NUMEROUS SUITES OF APARTMENTS. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT POSTING-MASTER TO THE QUEEN, Coaches during the Season to Blairgowrie, Dunkeld, and Ballater. Excellent Salmon Fishing in connection with the Hotel. Letters and Telegrams Punctually attended to. A, M‘GREGOR. (IRELAND) INTERNATIONAL HOTEL, BRAY, County Wicklow. PAR FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is situated near the Railway Station, Sea- beach, and Esplanade, central to all the far-famed Scenery of the County of Wicklow. Visitors to this fashionable place will find Toe INTERNATIONAL HOTEL replete with every comfort, and the Cuisine and Wines of the best quality, All Charges are fixed and moderate. Boarding Terms per week may be had on application to the MANAGER. C. DUFRESNE, Proprietor. 14 BRAEMAR—BRECHIN—-BRIDGE OF ALLAN, BRAEMAR, BY BALMORAL. FIFE ARMS HOTEL gah a4 eS Bu Special Appointment. Patromsed by the Royal Family and the Court. Coaches during the Season between Braemar and Ballater, and Braemar, Blairgowrie, and Dunkeld. Posting in all ts Branches. Lawn Tennis. PARTIES BOARDED BY THE WEEK UNTIL ist AUGUST. Mrs. M‘Nap has leased from the. Earl of Fife, K.T., seven miles of his Lordship’s Private Salmon Fishings, which gentlemen staying at the Hotel can have. BRECHIN, FORFARSHIRE. COMMERCIAL HOTEL. Oldest Established First-Class Family and Commercial Hotel. LARGE POSTING ESTABLISHMENT, "BUS AT ALL THE TRAINS. HOT AND COLD BATHS. ALEXANDER PIRIE. BRIDGE OF ALLAN. PHILP’S ROYAL HOTEL. ENOVATED and refurnished. Excellent accommodation and beautifully laid out grounds. Charges moderate. Most convenient to break the journey for the Trossachs, Oban, and other parts of the Highlands. An extensive Posting Establishment. Hotel ’Bus attends all Trains, R. PHILP, Proprietor. BRIDGE OF ALLAN—BRISTOL. 15 BRIDGE OF ALLAN HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT, NEAR STIRLING. lite oes situated and sheltered by the Ochils, on a dry and porous soil. The House is replete with every comfort and convenience. Elegant Suite of Baths, including Turkish, Russian, Vapour, Spray, &c., all on the most approved principles. Terms, £2:12:6 per week. Applications to be addressed to Ma. M‘KAY, House Superintendent. BRIDGE OF ALLAN. CARMICHAEL’S HOTEL. TEMPERANCE. Within easy access of Callander, the Trossachs, and Lochlomond. Terms, including all charges, 45s. per week. PosTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. Hore. ’BuS ATTENDS ALL TRAINS. CLIFTON, BRISTOL. THE ST. VINCENT’S ROCKS, Stands in the very finest position in Clifton, close to Suspension Bridge, and ts one of the most economical FIRST-CLASS HOTELS IN ENGLAND. Also at YORK HOUSE HOTEL, BATH. L. ASHCROFT, Proprietor. 16 BUXTON—CALLANDER—CARDIFP. THE BUXTON HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT AND WINTER RESIDENCE (MALVERN HOUSE) DERBYSHIRE. Overlooking the Pavilion and Public Gardens. Central and sheltered situation, close to the celebrated Mineral Baths. The Establishment is heated throughout by Hot Water, and in every way made comfortable for Invalids and Visitors, PosTAL AND TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS—‘‘ HypRo, BUXTON.” TABLE D’HOTE AT 6 O’CLOCK. FOR TERMS, ETC., APPLY TO THE PROPRIETOR. CALLANDER. | CALEDONIAN TEMPERANCE HOTEL. BIGGS begs to announce to his Patrons and the General Travelling e Community that he has taken a Lease of that Elegant House lately known as Willoughby Terrace as a First-Class Temperance Hotel. Every modern comfort and convenience, at moderate charges. Hot and Cold Baths. Two minutes’ walk from Station. Trossachs Coaches pass door daily. W. A. BIGGS, Lessee. CARDIFF. THE ANGEL HOTEL. THis beautifully-situated first-class House is built on the site of the old Cardiff Arms Hotel and Gardens,—Cardiff Castle, the residence of the Marquis of Bute, being on the north side, the Park and Gardens on the south, and commanding uninterrupted views from nearly all the rooms. The Hotel has been fitted up and furnished with all that experience can devise to ensure the comfort of Visitors ; it is within seven minutes’ walk of all the Railway Stations, and Tram Cars pass every few minutes to all parts of the Town. Magnificent Coffee Room and elegant Suites of Rooms. BLAND & SAVOURS, Proprietors. CHEPSTOW——CHESTER——CHRISTCHURCH——CLIFTON, 17 CHEPSTOW. BEAUFORT ARMS HOTEL. AN Old-Established First-class Family Hotel, within two minutes’ walk of the Railway Station, Castle, and River Wye. Ladies’ Coffee Room 60 feet by 80. Gentlemen’s Coffee and Billiard Rooms. Omnibuses and Carriages meet all trains. The BEAUFORT ARMS HOTEL, Tintern Abbey, conducted by the same Proprietress. Wight Porter. E. GARRETT. CHESTER. THE GROSVENOR HOTEL. IRST-CLASS. Situated in the centre of the City, close to the CATHEDRAL and other objects of interest. Large Coffee and Reading Rooms ; also Ladies’ Drawing Room for the convenience of Ladies and Families. Open and close Carriages, and Posting in all its Branches. Omnibuses attend the Trains for the use of Visitors to the Hotel. Tariff to be had on application. A Night Porter in attendance. DAVID FOSTER, Manager. CHRISTCHURCH. CHRISTCHURCH HOTEL, NEWLYN’S FAMILY HOTEL, “ Charming Views from the Balcony of the Hotel.” Opposite the old Priory Church and Ruins. Omnibuses to and from the Station. Excellent Boating in the Harbour. GOOD FISHING FOR VISITORS FREE STAYING AT THE HOTEL. OLIFTON. CLIFTON-DOWN HOTEL, Facing the Suspension Bridge. THE popularity of this Hotel has compelled the Proprietors to extend the accommo- dation by the addition of several Bedrooms, Ladies’ Drawing Rooms, a Suite of Apartments for Wedding Breakfasts, Ball Suppers, &c. &c. Visitors will find all the comforts of home, with fixed and moderate charges. The situation of the Hotel is unrivalled, being on the Downs, and within ten minutes’ walk of the new Clifton-Down Railway Station. N.B.—From this Hotel the following Trips are easy, returning to the Hotel the same day: Chepstow Castle, the Wynd Cliff, Tintern Abbey, Wells Cathedral, Glastonbury Tor, Bath, Weston-super-Mare, Clevedon, Portishead, Cardiff, Newport, and Channel Docks. HARRY F, BARTON, Manager. Clifton Hotel Company (Limited). B 18 CONISHEAD, ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT. = eg, Bag inns ¢ CONISHEAD PRIORY Hydropathic Mansion, by Ulverston, Furness. LADIES’ & GENTLEMEN’S TURKISH, SEA, & LAKE WATER BATHS. Summer Terms, from Ist April to 30th September, from £2:12:6 per Week. | Winter Terms, from 30th September to 1st April, from £2:9s. per Week. Special Terms for Long Residence. UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT. Address—THE MANAGER. tHE Magnificent and Historical Mansion of Conishead Priory, built at a cost of over £140,000, standing on its own beautifully-wooded grounds, on the western shore of Morecambe Bay, is, on high medical authority, stated to be one of the best Hydro- pathics in the kingdom, both for Summer and Winter residence. Excursions can be made from the Priory, either by coach or rail, to any part of the English Lake District, returning in the course of the day; and special arrangements © _ have been made for excursion parties on extremely moderate terms, The Directors have also liberally provided for amusements. ‘*One of the finest of old English mansions.”—Scotsman. ‘‘ Justly described as the Paradise of Furness.”—Black’s Gwide. ‘‘The furnishings and appointments throughout are of the best.”—Bradford Observer. ‘‘The architectural character of Conishead Priory gives this establishment a more magnificent building than usual, indeed no place of the kind at all approaches it in this respect.”—Newcastle Chronicle. ‘* Here the hawthorn scents the air; there a gigantic rhododendron lavishes all its beauties ; sycamores and oaks, and firs abound.”—Christian World. Daily Excursions to the Lakes at specially reduced rates. The PRIORY OMNIBUS waits the arrival of every Train at Ulverston. Passengers for the Priory by the London and North-Western Railway change Carriages panies Junction. Passengers by the Midland Railway may require to change at Hellifield. COLWYN BAY——OCORK. 19 COLWYN BAY, NORTH WALES. POLLYCROCGCHAN HOTEL (Late the Residence of Lady Erskine). [THis First-class Family Hotel is most beautifully situated in its own finely-wooded park in Colwyn Bay, com- manding splendid land and sea views; there are delightful walks in the adjacent woods. It is within a few minutes’ walk of the Beach and ten minutes’ of Colwyn Bay Station, and a short drive of Conway and Llandudno. Sea-Bathing, Tennis, Billiards, Posting. J. PORTER, Proprietor. The Proprietor begs to announce that to meet an increased demand he has added a handsome and commodious wing, containing Sitting and Bed Rooms. CORK. STEPHENS’S COMMERCIAL HOTEL (Opposite the General Post Office, Cork) POSSESSES first-class accommodation for Tourists, Commer- cial Gentlemen, and Families. It is very centrally situated—close to the Banks and Theatre. Charges extremely Moderate. MRS. STEPHENS, Proprietrzss, From the West of England. Extract from a ‘‘ Tour through Ireland,” published in the North Briton, 1864 :— ‘* When we arrived in Cork we took up our quarters at Stephens’s Com- mercial Hotel, where we obtained excellent accommodation.” Extract from the Glasgow Chiel, 27th December 1884. *‘ When you go to Cork, stop at Stephens’s capital Hotel—everything done well.”’ 20 cONWAY—CRIEFF —(DALMALLY, sce p. 54)—DERBY—DUBLIN. CONWAY. THE CASTLE HOTEL. egg cass Beautifully situated in the Vale of Conway, and very central for Tourists in North Wales. MISS DUTTON, Proprietress. CRIEFF. THE DRUMMOND ARMS HOTEL. IRST-CLASS, Renovated and Refurnished. Under new management. Families boarded by Week or Month. Large Posting Establishment. The Hotel Omnibus meets every Train. W. C. S. SCOTT, Proprietor. DERBY. THE ST. JAMES’S HOTEL, ib the centre of the Town, facing the Post Office and Corn Market, is new, with every convenience for Families and Commercial Gentlemen. A Large Hall for Meetings, Wedding Breakfasts, Concerts, &c. Hot and Cold Baths. Stock Rooms. THE STABLING IS PERFECT AND EXTENSIVE, J. WAGSTAFF, Proprietor. JURY'S HOTEL, COLLEGE GREEN Superior Accommodation. Tariff extremely Moderate. Table d’Hote at 3 and 6.30 p.m, daily. LADIES’ GOFFEE, DINING, AND DRAWING ROOMS. HENRY J. JURY, Proprietor. DUBLIN. 21 DUBLIN. SHELBOURNE HOTEL, ST. STEPHEN’S GREEN. gate 22 in the most central and fashionable part of Dublin, and is the great Tourist Hotel of Ireland. Contains magnificent Public Rooms, Elevator, Telegraph Office, &c. &c. First-Class. Charges Moderate. JURY & COTTON, Proprietors. DUBLIN. THE WICKLOW HOTEL (FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL), 6, 7, & 8 WICKLOW STREET, Off Grafton Street, Dublin. sa very centre of the City. Quiet, clean, comfortable, and homely. Most moderate charges. RICHARD O’BRIEN, Proprietor. DUBLIN. THE GRESHAM HOTEL, UPPER SACKVILLE STREET. 120 Bedrooms, Suites of Apartments for Famalres, Ladves’ Coffee-Room and Drawing-Room. Reading, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Tariff fixed and moderate. PROPRIETORS—THE GRESHAM HOTEL CO., LIMITED. DUBLIN. MAPLE’S HOTEL, 25 To 28 KILDARE STREET. MMHIS First-Class Establishment is built on one of the finest sites in the City, with southern aspect. It is situated between the College Park and St. Stephen’s Green, and is replete with every comfort, contains upwards of 100 Bedrooms, numerous suites of Private Apartments, and the usual Public accommodation. It is acknowledged to be one of the most comfort- able Hotels in the Kingdom. Terms Moderate. First-Class Livery Stables attached to the Premises. FREDRICK MAPLE, Proprietor. 22 DUBLIN——DULVERTON. DUBLIN. MORRISSON’S HOTEL, DAWSON STREET AND NASSAU STREET, HIS Frrst-Crass Horr contains 100 handsome Apartments, newly decorated. Central position, overlooking College Park. Table d’Hote at separate tables. Charges moderate. Bedrooms from 2s. 6d. Telephone 381. W. H. LUMLEY, Proprictor. DUBLIN. FRANKLIN'S HOTEL, 11 COLLEGE GREEN. MOST CENTRAL. Very Moderate Charges. Extreme Cleanliness and Comfort. RESTAURANT ADJOINING. Dinners from 1 o’clock to 7 o’clock p.m. NIGHT PORTER. E. FRANKLIN, Proprietor. DUBLIN. PRINCE OF WALES HOTEL, LOWER SACKVILLE STREET. (Neat the General Post Office. ) Central. Convenient. Moderate Charges. JURY BROTHERS, Proprietors. DULVERTON. CARNARVON ARMS FAMILY HOTEL. (QUITE IN THE COUNTRY.) eee Miles private Trout-Fishing near Hotel, property of the Right Honourable EARL oF CARNARVON (rivers Exe and Barle), free to Anglers staying |here. Fine bracing air amidst charming and varied scenery. The Devon and Somerset Stag-Hounds hunt this country. Hunters. Post-Horses. Tennis. Billiards. Close to Ratlway Junction Station. A. NELDER & SON. DUNBLANE—DUNDEE—DUNKELD. 23 DUNBLANE, STIRLING ARMS HOTEL. EAUTIFULLY SITUATED on the River Allan, near to the Cathedral. One minute’s walk from Station. Charges Strictly Moderate. MRS. MARSHALL, Proprietress. DUNDEE. QUEENS HOTEL, 160 NETHERGATE. MAGNIFICENT Views of the River’and Tay Bridge. Hand- some Billiard, Smoking, and Stock Rooms. Hotel in Inverness, and universally acknowledged one of the most comfort- able in Scotland. In point of situation this Hotel is the only one overlooking the riverNess, the magnificent view from the windows being unsur- passed, and extending to upwards of fifty miles of the surrounding strath.and mountain scenery of the great glen of ‘‘ Caledonia.” MAGNIFICENT LADIES’ DRAWING ROOM. An Omnibus attends all the Canal Steamers. The Hotel Porters await the arrival of all Trains. Posting. ALEXANDER M‘FARLANE, Proprietor. FIRST- AND. CLASS COMMERCIAL FAMILY HOTEL. cat jor € one i ‘inute's walk from the Railw ay ? INVERNESS. WAVERLEY HOTEL (Late Harcombe’s). Unsurpassed for Situation and Comfort, combined with Moderate Charges. f TARIFF. Breakfast (Plain) ‘ : 1s. 6d. Tea (Plain) m ls, 6d. Do. (Table d’Hote) . 2s. 6d. Dinner (Table @’ Hote) : 8s. 6d. Bedrooms from 1s. 6d. Attendance ls. 6d. The Porters of the Hotel attend all Trains, and the Hotel Omnibus runs in connection with the Caledonian Canal Steamers. D, DAVIDSON, Proprietor. INVERNESS (see also p. 50).—ISLE OF WIGHT. 49 THE VICTORIA HOTEL, INVERNESS On the Promenade leading to the Cathedral and Ness Islands. rNHE VICTORIA is the best situated Hotel in Inverness, being the nearest to Canal Steamers, and the only first-class Hotel facing the River and Castle. Omnibus attends Steamers and Trains. JOHN BLACK, Proprietor. SHANKLIN FOR SUNSHINE, HINTON’S ROYAL SPA HOTEL, The only Hotel on the Esplanade and facing the Sea. Po Ee OF WIT GH T. A SHELTERED and sequestered nook. Drawing Room, Conservatory, Flowers and Birds. Table d@ Hote at 7. Separate Tables. 50 Bedand Sitting Rooms. Billiards free of charge, and constant Amusements for Families residing in the Hotel. From 3 Guineas a week in Winter. 34 Guineas ,, in Summer. D PENSION CB 50 INVERNESS—ISLE OF WIGHT (sce also p. 49). , MACBEAN’S IMPERIAL HOTEL, INVERNESS. The most central First-class Hotel in Town, and opposite Large Dining Billiard Room Saloon with accommodating Two Tables, Hot and Cold 90 Guests. Baths, and aa upwards of 60 Rooms. Drawing Room. The Hotel Omnibus attends all Steamers, and Porters await the arrival of Trains. WINES AND LIQUORS OF SUPERIOR QUALITY. ISLE OF WIGHT. DROVER’S MARINE HOTEL, PARADE, WEST COWES. JAMES DROVER, PROPRIETOR. PLEASANTLY SITUATED, FACING THE SEA. The Comfort of Visitors studied in every way. N.B.—Board at low Rates during the Winter Months. ISLE OF WIGHT——KESWICK——KILLARNEY. a] VENTNOR, LW. ESPLANADE BOARDING HOUSE. Best position on Esplanade. Completely sheltered from North and East winds, with South aspect overlooking sea. Close to Pier. Good Bathing and Boating. Liberal Table. Terms from 35s. to 3 Guineas per Week. DERWENTWATER LAKE. JHFFERY’S “Blencathra” Family & Commercial Temperance Hotel (Opposite the Wesleyan Chapel), SOUTHEY STREET, KESWICK. Five MINUTES’ WALK FROM THE STATION. PLEASANTLY situated, commanding extensive views of Mountain Scenery, recently ~ enlarged and Refurnished. Ladies’ Drawing-Room. Hot and Cold Baths. Posting aa et e Drmnetoe A BUS MEETS ALL TRAINS. JOHN H. JEFFERY, Proprietor. LAKES OF KILLARNEY. oeretebe mn lA KE okt Ou bnBkue The only Hotel in Killarney situated on the Lake Shore, It is essential to apprise Tourists that there is at Killarney but one establishment called ‘‘THE LAKE HOTEL.” T is situate in the Bay of Casslelough, on the Eastern Shore of the Lower Lake, in the centre of the varied scenery of the Lake, within ten minutes’ drive of the Railway Station. The waters of the Lake approach the Hall Door, and hence the dis- tinctive title, ‘‘ Tum LAkr Horst.” Boats and Vehicles of every description supplied at fixed and Moderate Prices. No Gratuities allowed to Drivers, Boatmen, ete., as they are paid ample wages by the Proprietor. The Lake Hotel Omnibus attends the arrival and departure of the Trains. NoricE oF THE Press—From Bradshaw’s ‘‘ Towrists’ Hand-Book.” ‘In point of situation, that of ‘Tae Laker Hore.’ is, beyond question, the very best in the Lakes of Killarney. It occupies the centre of the circle described by the great mountain ranges of Mangerton, Tore, Eagle’s Nest, Purple Mountain, Glena, Toomies, Dunloe Gap, and Carranthual, and concentrates in one view all that is graceful, pictwresque, and sublime in the scenery of Killarney.”—Bradshaw’s ‘‘ Tourists’ Hand-Book,” page 382, 53 KILLARNEY—KILLIN, KILLARNEY By Her Most Gracious Majesty’s Special Permission. THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL (Open throughout the Year.) SITUATED ON THE SHORE OF THE LOWER LAKE. Patronised by H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES ; by H.R.H. the DUKE OF CONNAUGHT ; by the Royal Families of France, Belgium, &c. ; and Leading American Families. [THIS Hotel is situated on the shore of the Lower Lake, facing the far-famed Island of Innisfallen, within ten minutes’ drive of the Railway Station, and a short distance from the Gap of Dunloe. TABLE D’HOTE DURING THE SEASON. Boarding terms from October to June inclusive. Postal Telegraph Office in the House. JOHN O'LEARY, Proprietor, KILLARNEY LAKE DISTRICT, THE MUCKROSS HOTEL, OMBINED with strictly moderate charges, contains all that is necessary to promote the comfort and convenience of Visitors. It is situated in the most central and beautiful part of the Lake District, and within fifteen minutes’ drive of the Railway Station, at which the hotel ’bus attends. Surrounded by pleasant walks and drives, many objects of great interest and beauty, this Hotel will be found a most desirable place to spend a few days or weeks. Angling.—The Proprietor has arranged for the use of Visitors good Salmon Fish- ing. There is also good Salmon and Trout Fishing on the lakes, which are FREE, and Anglers can have boats from the Proprietor without charge. Tariff and other particulars on application. Please be particular to observe the bus you enter bears the name, THE MUCK-. ROSS HOTEL. LOCH-TAY, KILLIN HOTEL, PERTHSHIRE, Y Callander and Oban Railway, thence per New Branch Railway to Killin in connection with Loch Tay Steamers. This Hotel is withintwo minutes’ walk of the Railway Station, situated on the banks of the Lochay, at the head of Loch Tay, amongst some of the finest scenery in Scotland. ) an | HOTELS, Turkish Baths, LONDON & FAULKNER'S Newgate St. BRIGHTON.| 7 ONDON ESTABLISHMENTS. | © Hastings. FAULKNER’S HOTEL, VILLIERS ST., STRAND. GARDEN HOTEL, MIDDLE ST., BRIGHTON LARGE GARDEN (50 Yards from the Sea). HOME COMFORTS AND MODERATE CHARGES. Tariff on application at 50 Newgate Street and at any Branch in London or Country. HATR-CUTTING SALOONS, THE MOST COMPLETE IN LONDON. BATHS (ALL KINDS), LAVATORIES, AND DRESSING-ROOMS. HOSIERY, AND GENERAL OUTFITTING. Hats, Brushes, Cutlery, Bags, Perfumery, etc., etc. 50 Newgate St., and 3, 4, and 5 Panyer Alley, E.C.; 26 and 27 Villiers St., alongside Charing Cross Station; White Rock, Hastings, Little Bridge St., Ludgate Hill; Fen- church St. Railway Station ; The Colonnade, Ramsgate Sands ; National Rifle Associa- tion, Wimbledon ; and at *Liverpool St. Station, G. E. Railway; *Broad St, Station, N. L. Railway; *Waterloo Station, L. and 8. W. Railway; St. Pancras, and all Prin- cipal Stations on the Midland and North Staffordshire Railways. * No baths at these. DEVONSHIRE HOUSE HOTEL, 12 BISHOPSGATE STREET WITHOUT, LONDON, E.C. H. G. CHALKLEY, Proprietor, T. H, CHALKLEY, Manager. A First-Class Temperance Hotel. VISITORS to London will find this one of the most central positions from which, whether by Rail, Omnibus, or Tram, they can reach all parts. The Hotel is fitted with every modern improvement. The Public Rooms and Private Sitting Rooms are handsomely furnished, and the Bedrooms will be found most comfortable. Every attention paid to Visitors. Reduced Charges are made during the Winter Months, and liberal arrangements made with those staying a lengthened period. A Porter is in attendance all night. _ For Tariff of Charges apply to the Manager.—Telegraphie Address, “* Haterior, London.” VISITORS TO LONDON. TRANTER’S TEMPERANCE HOTEL, 7, 8, 9 BRIDGEWATER SQUARE, BARBICAN, LONDON, E.C. MOST CENTRAL FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE, Close to Aldersgate Street, Metropolitan Railway Station, and near St, Paul’s Cathedral and General Post Office. Homelike, Highly Respectable, and Quiet. Clean and well Ventilated Bedrooms, 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d. Breakfast or Tea from Is. to 1s.9d. NO charge for attendance. HOT AND COLD BATHS. ESTABLISHED 1859, Private, Family, and Commercial, Recently Enlarged. VistTors’ GUIDE To Lonpon, Regd.—What to see, and How to see it in a Week ; and Tariff Card free on application to G. T. 8. TRANTER, Proprietor. LONDON. LAMBERT, JEWELLERS AND SILVERSMITHS, COVENTRY STREET, LONDON. N.B.-WEDDING, BIRTHDAY, AND COMPLIMENTARY PRESENTS. S. FISHER, sin STRAND. THE THE PERFECT! | PERFECT EMPTY y FITTED BAG. i). BAG. i) AND THE BEST BAG EVER INVENTED FOR CONTINENTAL TRAVELLING. LIGHT, STRONG, SECURE. Catalogues Post Free. 62 LONDON——-LONDONDERRY. THE SARACEN’S HEAD HOTEL, SNOW HILL, HOLBORN VIADUCT, LONDON, E.C. Opposite the Snow Hill Station of the L. C. & D. Railway. FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL. Omnibus and Railway communication with all parts of London immediately avail- able. One of the most conveniently situated Hotels in the City. M. H. WOODHILL, Proprietor. Telegraphic Address—“* WOODHILL, LONDON.” HER MAJESTY AND H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES By SPECIAL APPOINTMENT TO TURKEY, PERSIAN, é& INDIAN CARPETS. IMPORTED BY THOS. BONTOR & CO., LATE WATSON, BONTOR, & COMPANY, Carpet Manufacturers to the Royal Family, 35 & 36 OLD BOND STREET, LONDON, W. EXHIBITION MEDALS, 1851, 1862; DUBLIN, 1865; AND AMSTERDAM, 1883. Superior Brussels, Velvet, Saxony, and all other Carpets in the Newest Designs. JURY'S HOTEL, LONDONDERRY. OURISTS, Families, and Commercial Gentlemen visiting the North of Ireland will find the above Hotel replete with every accommodation, combined with moderate charges. A NIGHT PORTER ALWAYS IN ATTENDANCE. Posting in all its Branches. Omnibuses attend the arrival and departwre of all Trains and Steamers. GEORGE J. JURY, Proprietor. LYNTON—MALVERN. 63 CORE LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. THE ROYAL CASTLE FAMILY HOTEL. Patronised by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales and other Members of the Royal Family. The finest sea and land views in the world. f Baie Hotel, standing in its own ornamental grounds of about 12 acres, 500 feet above the level of the sea, overlooking the Bristol Channel, commands uninter- rupted views of the Valleys of the East and West Lynn, Lynn Cliff, Brendon and Countisbury Hills, The Tors, the Village of Lynmouth, the Foreland, the Welsh Coast, and the far-famed Valley of Rocks. Having been under the management of the present Proprietor nearly 50 years, the Hotel has been recently and extensively enlarged to meet the requirements of modern society, and combines the comforts of a private house with the conveniences of a first-class Hotel. Elegant Suites of Private Apartments. New and commodious Table d’Héte, Coffee Room, and Ladies’ Drawing Room, facing the sea. Excellent Cuisine. Moderate Charges. In connection with this Hotel, and in the same delightful grounds, is a PRIVATE HOTEL and BOARDING HOUSE, which offers excellent accommodation for Families visiting this charming neighbourhood. New and convenient Stables. Post Horses and Carriages of every description. Coaches in the Season to Ilfracombe, Minehead, and Barnstaple. THOMAS BAKER, Proprietor. FIRST-CLASS EXMOOR PONIES FOR SALE. LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. THE VALLEY OF ROCKS HOTEL (ESTABLISHED 1800). In every respect First-Class and Complete. [D=ELIGHTEULLY situated in extensive ornamental Grounds 500 feet above the level of the Sea, with a full view of it, also the Foreland, the Torrs, the valleys of the Lynns, &c. &. Elegant Suites of Apartments, also Spacious Table d’Hoéte and Coffee Rooms, Reading Rooms, and Ladies’ Drawing Room. The most modern conveniences to secure home comforts, good fare, and prompt attention. Handsomely-fitted Billiard Room open during the Season for Residents in the Hotel only. CHARGES MODERATE. TARIFF FORWARDED ON APPLICATION. Post Horses and Carriages. JOHN CROOK, Proprietor. MALVERN. THH ABBEY HOTEL, IN EXCELLENT SITUATION. MOST COMFORTABLE FAMILY HOTEL. Coffee-Room, Reading-Room, and Drawing-Room for Ladies and Gentlemen. Table @ Hote during the Season. L. ARCHER, Proprietor, Miss SCHNEIDER, Janager. 6 4 MALVERN—MANCHESTER—MATLOOK BATH. MALVERN. _ THE FOLEY ARMS HOTEL (Patronised by the Royal Family). HE first time we visited Malvern, when shown into an upper chamber in the ‘Foury ARMs,’ we were literally taken aback. We can hardly say more than that the prospect struck us as far finer than from the terrace over the Thames at Richmond, etc., etc.” —Hatract from article in ‘* Blackwood,” August 1884. Coffee-Room and Drawing-Room for Ladies and Gentlemen. EDWARD ARCHER, Proprietor. Miss YOUNGER, Manager. MANCHESTER. GRAND HOTEL COMPANY OF MANCHESTER, LIMITED. AYTOUN STREET. PORTLAND STREET. The Best Hotel in the City. Every modern convenience. Lift. First-Class Cuisine and Cellar. F. MOERSCHELL, Manager. MANCHESTER. KNOWSLEY HOTEL, CHEETHAM HILL ROAD (Only a few Minutes’ walk from Victoria Railway Station), WILL be found to possess all home comforts, and the Finest Wines, Oldest Spirits, and Brightest Beer, all at most moderate charges. Parties staying a lengthened Period may make Special Terms. Omnibuses to all parts of the City pass the door every few minutes. R. KNOX, Manager. MATLOCK BATH. THE ROYAL HOTEL (LATE OLD BATH). ViIsiTORs to this ne County should make Matlock Bath their Headquarters. Delightful walks and drives to all places of interest. Central and charming. This Hotel adjoins the pavilion and gardens. Newly furnished and fitted with all modern improvements. Table d@hote. Lawn Tennis, Billiards, Fishing, Large Tepid Swimming Bath, free of charge. Omnibus meets all Trains. Tariff on application to J. A. HINTON, late of Castle Manz, Isle of Man. MATLOCK-——MELROSE. 65 MATLOCK BATH, DERBYSHIRE. TYACK’S NEW BATH HOTEL, Recently enlarged and newly furnished, adjoining, the Pavilion Grounds, It affords every comfort and convenience of a first-class modern Hotel, and has Pleasure Grounds extending to 9 acres, commanding some of the finest views of Derbyshire... It has been long patronised by the best English and American Families. Private Sitting Rooms, Drawing Room, Smoke, and Billiard Rooms A large Swimming Bath, Hot and-Cold. Baths. Lawn Tennis, Fishing. Balls weekly Wiring the Season. ~ Posting, Stabling. "BUS MEETS EACH TRAIN. Terms Strictly Moderate, for which apply to the Proprietor, T. TYACK. Places of interest within. easy reach. daily. by, Rail or Coach :— Buxton, Chatsworth, Haddon Hall, Castleton, Dovedale, Wingfield Manor, Hardwick Hall. MELROSE. THE WAVERLEY HYDROPATHIC. ONE hour from Edinburgh, one anda half from Carlisle. ‘Terms from £2:2s. per week. Summer, from £2:9s.. Billiards, Bowling, Lawn Tennis, Trout Fishing in Tweed included... First-class. Table. For Prospectus apply to the Manager. MELROSE..§ THE AB Bint HOTEL, ABBEY GATE, AND GEORGE AND ABBOTSFORD HOTEL, HIGH STREET, MELROSE, . 4 hes E only first-class Hotels in Melrose, both overlooking the ruins, and only 2 minutes’ walk from the Railway Station, The Hotel ’ Buses, attend all Trains. First-class Horses and Carriages for Abbotsford, Dryburgh, etc., can be had at both establish- ments. G. HAMILTON, Proprietor. K 66 MOFFAT——MONMOUTH. MOFFAT SPA, ANNANDALE ARMS HOTEL, TOURISTS and Visitors to this famous Watering-Place will find at the ANNANDALE Arms first-class accommodation, combined with Moderate Charges, Commercial Gentlemen will find every attention to their convenience and interests. ’Buses meet the Trains at Moffat Station. A Summer Excursion Omnibus runs along the route, passing ‘‘ Craigieburn Wood,” Bodesbeck, Grey Mare’s Tail—to St. Mary’s Loch, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, in connection with a Coach to Selkirk. OMNIBUSES PLY TO THE WELL EVERY MORNING. Carriages of all kinds. Job and Post Horses on Hire. ROBERT NORRIS, Proprietor. MONMOUTH. VALLEY OF THE WYE, THE KING’S HEAD HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE. HIS old-established Hotel, situate in Agincourt Square, the centre of the town, is replete with every accommodation for Families and Tourists, at Moderate Charges. A SPACIOUS LADIES’ COFFEE ROOM, AND A SUPERIOR BILLIARD ROOM. An Omnibus meets every Train. JOHN THOMAS, PRopRIETOR. MONMOUTH. OLD CURIOSITY SHOP, AGINCOURT SQUARE, MONMOUTH. Close to the King’s Head Hotel and Beaufort Arms Hotel. ANTIQUE PORCELAINS. ANTIQUE PLATE. ANTIQUE FURNITURE. Collector.— HENRY T. SIMMONDS. NAIRN—OBAN. 67 NAIRN. ROYAL MARINE HOTEL (Fifteen miles South of Inverness), ‘ Patronised by the Royal Family. THE “BRIGHTON OF THE NORTH.” FIRST-CLASS HOTEL for Families and Tourists at Moderate Rates. The House was specially built for an Hotel, and has undergone a thor- ough and extensive Repair, and is newly and elegantly Furnished in the most modern style, and contains numerous Suites of Private Rooms, including Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Dining Saloon, with Drawing Room; also Smoking Room, Billiard Room, &. Over 70 Beds can be made up. The Climate of Nairn is well known to be the best in Scotland, and is becoming yearly more and more a favourite resort of the Upper Classes and Tourists from all parts of the Kingdom. It is also in high repute with the leading Physicians of the country, who invariably recommend their patients in increasing numbers to secure the benefits of the dry and bracing air of the district, Superior Hor and CoLtp Satt Water Batus in the Hotel, supplied by a powerful Steam Engine direct from the sea. An Omnibus awaits the arrival of all trains. Posting in all its branches will be done in first-class style, and will be carefully attended to. JOHN MACDONALD, Proprietor (Late Lessee of the Station Hotel, Inverness). OBAN. COLUMBA HOTEL. ON THE ESPLANADE. FIRST CLASS. NEAREST THE STEAMBOAT PIER, AND ONLY . THREE MINUTES’ WALK FROM RAILWAY STATION. BUS NOT REQUIRED. D. C. MACMILLAN, Lessee. 68 OBAN, Saar ee ATIC = === a ak a a a “Nia 1 il Sad ‘ij , =e TB hue i! OBAN. THE ALEXANDRA FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, ON THE ESPLANADE, OBAN. Stands within its own Grounds, and commands the Finest View in Oban. NEW BILLIARD ROOM, °BUS FREE OF CHARGE. L. G. MSARTHUR, Proprietor. 69 OBAN, OBAN THE STATION HOTEL RST CLAS Y FI. AILWAY STATION AND PIER NEAREST R ED VIEWS UNSURPASS 1a eli ; MPBELL, Propr 1 c C 70 OBAN. OBAN, KING’S ARMS HOTEL HAS a commanding sea view; is adjacent to the railway station and steamboat wharf; and possesses home comforts, combined with noderate charges. LADIES’ Drawine Room. BILLIARD, SMOKING, and BATH Rooms. Parties boarded on moderate terms. Tariff on application. Table d’ Hite daily. Boots waits the arrival of Trains and Steamers. Boat kept for fishing. ALEX. M‘TAVISH, PROPRIETOR. ORBAN. . ANGUS’S IMPERIAL HOTEL. Immediately opposite the Steamboat Pier. OBAN. BLACK’S ARGYLL HOTEL. (Under New Management.) SrruATED ON THE ESPLANADE CLOSE TO THE STEAMBOAT PIER. CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE. D,. MACDONALD (Late of the Alexandra Hotel), Proprietor. OBAN, SUTHERLAND’S GREAT WESTERN HOTEL. LARGEST AND LEADING HOTEL IN THE WEST HIGHLANDS. An Omnibus attends the arrival and departure of Trains and Steamers. Visitors conveyed to and from the Hotel free of Charge. OBAN——OXFORD. 71 OBAN, VICTORIA HOTEL, Frrst-CLAss TREMPERANCE—THE ONLY HIGH-CLASS IN CLOSE PROXIMITY TO RAILWAY STATION, PrER, AND Post OFFICE, Bedrooms 1s. 6d. and 2s, Teas and Breakfasts 1s. 6d. and 2s, Dinners, & la carte, 2s. 9d. Registered telegraphic address, ‘‘ MACLACHLAN ” Oban. OXFORD. ; RANDOLPH HOTEL, IN THE CENTRE OF THE CITY, (THE only modern built Hotel in Oxford, close to the Colleges and Public Buildings, and commanding a fine open view down Beaumont Street, St. Giles’s Street, and Magdalen Street, opposite THe Martyrs’ MEMORIAL, Handsome Suites of Apartments. Drawing Room, Billiard Rooms, and every modern comfort and convenience. Excellent Wines imported direct from abroad. CHARGES MODERATE. GOOD STABLING AND LOOSE BOXES. Visitors at this Hotel will meet with every attention and consideration. ADDRESS—THE MANAGER. OXFORD. THE CLARENDON HOTEL. pa ey ae by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, H.R.H. Prince Leopold, Their Imperial Majesties The Emperor and Empress of Brazil, The Princess Frederick Charles of Prussia, and Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte. Situate in the most central part of the city, near the principal Colleges and places of interest to Visitors. Families and Gentlemen will find the Hotel replete with every comfort. SPACIOUS COFFEE AND BILLIARD ROOMS. PRIVATE SITTING AND: BEDROOMS (en swite). LADIES’ COFFEE Room. Guides always in Attendance. Fashionable Open and Close Carriages. Job and Post Horses. Good Stabling and commodious Coach Houses. JOHN F, ATTWOOD, Proprietor. 72 OXFORD (PENSARN, seep. 733) PENZANCE. seh cbeg , OXFORD: | aa THE MITRE HOTKL, Situated in the centre of the finest Street in Europe, is one of the most ECONOMICAL First- Class Hotels in the Kingdom. PENZANCE. QUEEN? s HOTEL ON THE ESPLANADE. HIS Hotel has a frontage of over 170 feet, all the rooms of which overlook the sea. It is the principal and largest in Penzance, For Families, Ladies, and Gentlemen only. Penzance stands unrivalled for the variety and quiet beauty of its scenery, whilst the mildness of its climate is admirably adapted to invalids, Apartments en swite. Ladies’ Drawing, Reading, and Coffee Rooms, Billiard and Smoking Rooms, Hot and Cold Baths. ‘Table d’Héte. An Omnibus meets every Train. POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. * ALEX. H, HORA, Proprietor. PENZANCE—PENSARN—-PERTH. | ~ Ts PENZANCE. ON THE ESPLANADE. HIS old-established Hotel commands a better view of Mount’s Bay than any other Hotel in Penzance, as all the windows in the front and at side have an Uninterrupted and unsurpassed View of all the Bay and St. Michael’s Mount. THE HOTEL Is HEATED witH Hor Watrr. Hot AnD CoLp BATus. Choice Wines, etc. Post Horses and Carriages. TABLE D’HOTE. PORTER MEETS EACH TRAIN. _ CHARGES MODERATE. Terms and View on Application. MRS. LAVIN, Proprietress. CAMBRIAN. HOTEL. Close to the Railway Station, Beach, and Lawn Tennis Grounds. It is conveniently situated for the daily Welsh Circular Tours. ROBERT HUMPHREYS, Proprietor. Bke LALA R DS, PERTH. HENRYS QUEEN'S HOTEL Opposite the General Railway Station. (OVER THE BRIDGE.) THAT IS. THE HOUSE TO GO TO. PERTH. POPLE’S ROYAL BRITISH HOTEL (Opposite the General Station). Patronised by their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, Prince and Princess Christian, Duke of Connaught, and other Members of the Royal Family, and the leading Nobility of the Kingdom. f iit: Family Hotel has long stood pre-eminent ; and the Proprietor would remark that the same care and unremitting attention, which are universally acknowledged by all who have patronised him, it will be his constant study to continue. Telegraphic _Address—Pori¥k, PERTH. 74 | PERTH—PLYMOUTH—PORT BANNATYNE—PITLOCHRIE. PERTH. SALUTATION: HOTEL. T this old-established and well-known Hotel (under new management) Tourists, Commercial Gentlemen, and Families will find comfort and attention, combined with strictly moderate charges. Special terms for Cyclists. BILLIARD. ROOM WITH. FIRST CLASS TABLES. HOTEL ’BUS AWAITS THE ARRIVAL. OF TRAINS, Orders by Letter or Telegram receive prompt attention. W. CARGILL, Proprietor. PLYMOUTH. GRAND HOTEL. (ON THE HOE.) THE ONLY HOTEL WITH SEA VIEW. Facing Sound, Breakwater, Eddystone. MATL STEAMERS ANCHOR IN SIGHT. Public Rooms and Sitting Rooms, with Balconies. JAMES BOHN, Proprietor. KYLES OF BUTE HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT, PORT BANNATYNE, BUTE, NB. : NRIVALLED as a Marine Residence. -Situated 200 feet above the level of. the Sea, commanding magnificent view of Loch Striven and the entrance to the Far Famed Kyles of Bute. .Sheltered Walks within Policies. Every Home Comfort. Unsur- passed Salt, Fresh Water, and Turkish Baths. Climate during Winter free from fogs, and as mild as the South of England and Channel Islands. Consulting Physician.—Dr. ANDREW J. HALL, Lady Superintendent.—Miss MALCOLM, Terms on Application. ATHOLE HYDROPATHIC. PITLOCHRIE,: PERTHSHIRE. HIS. Palatial, Establishment, after extensive alterations, extension of Tennis Courts, &¢., will be reopened for the reception of Visitors on the 19th May, UNDER THE PERSONAL SUPERVISION OF THE Proprietor, W. MACDONALD, Royal Refreshment Rooms, Perth Station, WHO WILL FORWARD PROSPECTUSES ON APPLICATION, PITUOCARIR. 75 PITLOCHRIE. FISHERS GOTEL. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL AND POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. ARTIES wishing to see the magnificent Scenery in this part of the Scottish Highlands will find this Hotel (to which large additions have been made) most ‘convenient, for in One Drive they can visit the Falls of Tummel, the Queen’s View of Loch Tummel; The Far-Famed Pass of Killiecrankie : Glen Tilt; The Falls of Bruar, &c. Pitlochrie is on the direct route to Balmoral Castle, by Spital of Glen- shee and Braemar; and to Taymouth Castle and Kinloch-Rannoch, by Tummel Bridge. Salmon and Trout Fishing on the Rivers Tummel and Garry, and on the Lochs in the neighbourhood. ._ EXCURSION COACHES leave the Hotel daily during the summer season for Pass of Killiecrankie, Falls of Bruar, Queen’s View on Loch Tummel, Kinloch- Rannoch, | Glen Tilt, &c. Seats secured at the Hotel. ~ Fares moderate. Job and Post Horses and Carriages of every kind, By the Day, Week, or Month. ORDERS BY. TELEGRAPH FOR ROOMS, CARRIAGES, OR COACH SEATS, ; PUNCTUALLY ATTENDED TO. PLYMOUTH. 76 WUNAWHSITAV ISH ONILSOd FAISNALXA sc acieereiite : = nei ee eee =e a a + 1?! ———— ——— : —— "ULIISO Af -YJNOS PUD UOPUOT Puy Usajsa ff -JWAlH —2 ‘ymouhrg 07 punpbur fo yp4oNy ayn pun uopuoT wosf honjunay fo souvyT ony THE ROYAL HOTEL, PLYMOUTH. RETIRING ROOM. SPACIOUS GENERAL COFFEE ROOM. FOR LADIES. Good Smoking Room for Gentlemen staying in the , Hotel. S. PEARSE, Proprieror, PRESTON—RHYL——RIPON—ROTHESAY. 77 PRESTON, LANCASHIRE. Half-way between London and Edinburgh, and London and Glasgow. THE VICTORIA AND STATION HOTEL. Close to the Railway Station. Established 50 Years. Night Porter. Charges Reasonable. GOOD STABLING AND COACH-HOUSES. MISS BILLINGTON, Proprictress. RHYL—NOKTH WALES. WESTMINSTER HOTEL. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, FACING THE SEA. RIPON, FOUNTAINS ABBEY. UNICORN HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE. ~ PArRonisep BY H.R.H. PRINCE or WALES. NE of the Oldest Established Hotels in the North of England, and the principal in Ripon. To meet requirements it has been lately much enlarged and improved. : Orders by Post punctually attended to. R. E. COLLINSON, Wine anv Spirit Mercuant, Proprietor. ROTHESAY, ISLE OF BUTE. , (Opposite the Pier.) THE BUTE ARMS HOTEL. (UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT.) HIS Old-Established and First-Class Hotel affords excellent accom- modation for Families, Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen. Charges Strictly Moderate. PARTIES BOARDED BY THE WEEK OR MONTH. ROBERT SMITH, Proprietor. 78 ROTHESAY (ST, FILLANS, see p. 55). Established over Twenty-one Years. Five Minutes’ Walk from the Quay. On the Esplanade. iY Rh D. M‘PHERSON (for 29 years Lessee of the Argyll Arms Hotel, Inver- aray) begs to announce that he has just succeeded to this OLD-EsTABLISHED and Frrst-CLass FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HoreL, which comprises magnifi- cent Dining Saloon (one of .the finest in Scotland), Ladies’ Drawing Room, elegant Sitting Rooms, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, Bath Rooms, and over FORTY Bedrooms—all furnished in the most modern style. Tourists would find the QuEEN’s HorsEt a most suitable and convenient resort for breaking their journey, either going North or South. Several Pleasure Excursions can be had from Rothesay at convenient hows every forenoon by ‘Columba,’ ‘ Lord of the Isles,’ ‘Ivanhoe,’ ‘ Gael,’ ‘ Bonnie Doon,’ ‘Sultana,’ and other Steamers, for Arran, Cumbrae, Campbeltown, Inveraray, Ardrishaig, Ayr, Arrochar (Loch; Lomond), and other places on the Firth of Clyde ; returning to Rothesay in the afternoon. A variety of beauti- ful Drives can also be had to various places of interest in the Island. TABLE D’HOTE at 6.30. BEAUTIFUL GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. Letters and Telegrams Punctually Attended to. PARTIES BOARDED BY THE WEEK OR MONTH. ROTHESAY, BUTE. GLENBURN HYDROPATHIC, ELIGHTFUL _ Residence, Climate mild, Protected from East Winds. Newly added—An additional Drawing-Room, with a Southern aspect, overlooking the Flower Garden, with over 20 new Bed- rooms and Nursery for Children. Large Handsome Recreation Hall, Music and Billiard Room, Lawn and Ash Tennis Court, Bowling, Boating, etc., etc. — The Baths—Turkish, Vapour, Salt, Russian, Medicated, Elec- tric and Swimming—finest in Britain. Dr, PHILP, Resident Physician, p Under.the Direction of Mr. PyH1Lp, Proprietor of the Cockburn Hotels, Edinburgh and Glasgow. SALISBURY—SOARBOROUGH. 79 SAGISBHEY. THE WHITE HART HOTEL. The Largest and Principal Hotel i the City. AX old-established and well-known first-class Family Hotel, nearly opposite Salisbury Cathedral, and within a pleasant drive of Stonehenge. This Hotel is acknowledged to be one of the most comfortable in England. ‘Table d’Héte at separate Tables from 6.80! to 8.30 p.m daily. | A Ladies’ Coffee Room, a Coffee. Room for Gentlemen, and first-class Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Carriages and Horses of every description for Stonehenge and other places of interest. Excellent ‘Stabling. Loose Boxes, etc., Posting-Masters to Her Majesty. Tariff on application to H. 'T. BOWES, Manager. SCARBOROUGH THE ALEXANDRA HOTEL ESTABLISHED. 1864. FIRST-CLASS HOTEL—Detached—On the Cliff, with unrivalled Sea Views, and commanding most extensive and picturesque views of the surrounding. country. Elegant Private Apartments. The Cuisine superior, and the Wines carefully selected, but visitors can use their own without extra charge. FULL TERMS— A la Carte; or, Board and Attendance in Public Room, including bed, 10s. per day. Per week, £3:3:0. Private Apartments, from two to six guineas per week, and Board and ‘Attendance from 10s. 6d. per day; or £3: YO: O-per week. REDUCED TARIFF 10 THE END OF °THE FIRST, WEEK .IN..AUGUSI. Board and Attendance, vn public rooms, per week, £2 212: 6. Per day, 9s., and no charge for beds, Full tariff, and bp Pu can ase t on application to MISS CHANDLER, Manager. 80 SKIPTON—SK YE—SOUTHPORT—-STIRLING. SKIPTON. THE DEVONSHIRE HOTEL. N old-estiablished First-class Family and Commercial Hotel, in the centre of the 4% Town. Parties visiting ‘‘Botton Aspry” will find this "Hotel within an easy distance 3» with comfort, superior accommodation,.and moderate charges. combined. Conveyances of all kinds on hire. Billiards and Bowling Green. AN HOTEL OMNIBUS MEETS THE TRAINS. MRS. EDMUND WRIGLEY, Proprietress. SKYE. SLIGACHAN HOTEL, Nearest House to Loch Corwisk. gD ae Ay EAE ts situated at the foot of the Coolin Hills. — Parties living in the Hotel have the Privilege of good Sea-trout fishing on the river Sligachan; also good Loch and Sea fishing. | Boats free of charge. Boatmen, 4s. per “day. Parties landing at Coruisk can have ponies or guides sent to meet them at Camasunary, or the Hill above Coruisk, by sending letter or telegram the day previous. POSTING. WM. SHARP, Lessee. SOUTHPORT. PRINCE OF WALES HOTEL, FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN. ELEGANTLY APPOINTED, STRICTLY MODERATE CHARGES BOARDING ARRANGEMENTS. C. O. WILKINSON, ‘Aanager. STIRLING. ROYAL HOTEL. eee old-established First-Class Hotel is conveniently situated for Families, Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen, being within. three minutes’ walk of the Railway Station. Carriages of every description kept at the Hotel. Omnibus awaits all Trains, A. CAMPBELL, Proprietor. STRATHPEFFER,. 81 THE HIGHLAND SULPHUR SPA, STRATHPEFFER, ROSS-SHIRE. These Waters are among the strongest in Europe, and are unrivalled in Great Britain in the treatment of CHRONIC RHEUMATISM DISEASES OF THE SKIN, AND AFFECTIONS OF THE LIVER AND KIDNEYS. Superior Effervescing Chalybeate Spring, UNIQUE IN THIS COUNTRY. SULPHUR BATHS AND DOUCHES HEATED ON THE MOST APPROVED SYSTEM, XTENSIVE IMPROVEMENTS AND ALTERATIONS EFFECTED SINCE LAST SEASON, SPLENDID PAVILION FOR BALLS, CONCERTS, ETC. Resident Physician—Dr. FORTESCUE FOX, from London Hospital. See Late Dr. MANSON’S Book, 5th Edition. IMPROVED DRAINAGE AND WATER SUPPLY. ___ STRATHPEFFER. BEN WYVIS' HOTEL, Two Minutes walk from Railway Station and MINERAL WELLS AND BATHS, CONTAINS SPLENDID NEW DRAWING AND DINING ROOMS, PUBLIC AND PRIVATE APARTMENTS (En Suite), BILLIARD AND RECREATION ROOMS, BOWLING AND TENNIS GREENS, Amidst Scenery Unsurpassed in Scotland, NEAR POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICES, POSTING. APPLY THE MANAGER. F 82 STRATHPEFFER. STRATHPEFFER. SPA HOTEL. HIS Old Established Hotel occupies one of the best. situations in Strathpeffer, now considered the most popular Health Resort'in the Country, within 5 minutes from the eas peg: > Payilion,Post-Oftice,, ete. JA4 It stands within its own Gr ounds, commands,-a particularly fine view of thé*beautiful scenery of the Strath, and is secluded enough to ensure to visitors the privacy and quiet, of an ordinary. guntry Residence. Tt has»recently been. enlarged, and now contains BruntaRD Room, HanpsomeDrawina Room, and SPACIOUS Dining Hau, éte. The Grounps have been beautifully laid out with Sheltered. Walks and Tennis Lawns, ete. The Hotel is well-known asa First-Class home, is noted for the Excellence. ofits. CurstNe, and, unrivalled ;for cleanliness) and comfort. 3 : vf | Omnibus and Boots attend all Trains. Telephone Sri A Mate bel faveen Hotel anil Shrathpeffer Station. VISITORS CONVEYED FREE OF CHARGES TO AND FROM WELLS: TT POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. oharges Strictly Moderate. A. WALLACE, Proprvetor. TARBERT (HARRIS). ; 83 TARBERT HOTEL, ISLE OF HARRIS, SALMON & SEA- TROUT FISHING FREE, SEA- FISHING, ROBERT HORNSBY Bess raspectfeliiy to call the ‘attention of Tourists, Anglers, &c., to his Hotel, where they will find every comfort and good sport. Parties living in the Hotel can get good Salmon and Sea-trout Fishing, or they can have Boats for Sea-Fishing. Various Lochs in connection with the Establish- ment. Post Horses and Carriages are kept.for hire. The scenery of Harris is magnificent, including a.view of St, Kilda, and the climate is extremely healthy, us 5. © The Steamer DUNARA CASTLE, from Glasgow, calls every week ; and the Steamer CLYDESDALE, also from Glasgow, every fortnight. The Lochs of the Tsland of Scalpa can be fished by residing at this Hotel, and Excursions can be arranged to all the outlying Islands. The Shootings of the Island’ of: Bealpay, &c., also Seal Shooting, are attached to the Hotel. ‘Yachts supplied with Stores and Fresh. Vegetables. Reading Parties taken in by the Week or Month. 84 TA YNUILT——-TENBY—TINTERN. TAYNUILT, TAYNUILT HOTEL. HIS Hotel is situated near Loch Etive, within two minutes’ walk from the Taynuilt Station on the Callander and Oban Railway. Visitors have the privilege of Salmon and Trout Fishing on the River Awe. JAMES MURRAY, Proprietor. Ae Horses, Carriages, &c. TENBY. ROYAL GATE HOUSE HOTEL. HIS well-known Hotel is replete with every comfort for the reception of Families and Gentlemen, combined with moderate charges. The situation cannot be surpassed, commanding most extensive sea-views. Ladies’ Drawing Room, Private Sitting Rooms, Bath Room, &e. Billiards, Excellent Stabling. PENSION FOR FAMILIES AT REDUCED TERMS DURING WINTER SEASON. Table d’Hote at 7 p.m. MISS. BRIGHT, phlagesepe. TEN BYE THE COBOURG HOTEL, ) 2'UNRIVALLED POSITION. FACING THE SEA. Ladies’ Drawing Room, Private, Sitting Rooms, Hot and Cold Bath Rooms. Good Livery Stables. © Tariff——From Three Guineas A week. Special. Terms for Winter Season. ,.Qmnibus to all Trains. JOHN B. HUGHES, Aerie: TINTERN ABBEY. BEAUFORT ARMS HOTEL, TINTERN. , CHARMING First-Class Hotel, delightfully situated ip -its own Grounds, directly facing the noble Ruins of the Abbey. Carriages meet all Trains at Tintern Station. | EMMA GARRETT Pr opi detr ess if Béaufort Arms Hotel, TINTERN. ; CUT eS: { Beaufort Arms Hotel, Coerstow TOBERMORY—-TORQUAY. 85 TOBERMORY (ISLAND OF MULD), NBL WESTERN ISLES HOTEL (FIRST CLASS). Use of Boats for Fishing the famots Mishnish Lochs and Frisa, free of charge. Beautiful Spot for a Fanvily Resort. Families and Gentlemen Boarded from £2:5s. per week until J uly ALBERT MUNZER. TORQUAY. THE WESTERN HOTEL. Winter Resort. The nearest Hotel to the Railway Station, Sands, and Bathing. Commanding Situation—free and open Equally suitable for a Summer as a Magnificent views froin every window. . Home Comforts. Excellent Cuisine and Wines. Baths. Tennis Courts. Billiard Room. Coffee and Public Drawing Rooms Table d’Hote. Telephone. For Rooms, Tariff, &c., apply.to the MANAGER, THE TORQUAY GRANVILLE MANSIONS BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT AND PENSION. LATH THE HYDROPATHIE.: rus ESTABLISHMENT is conducted with a view to give every home comfort that Visitors may require. The situation is healthy, free from fogs, rarely any snow or frost. seen. _ Its altitude is 250 feet above Torbay, over which there are very extensive views, equal to Italian Scenery. The Cuisine is good, all provisions being supplied from the Home Farm. A spacious Billiard-Room and Reading-Room supplied with daily papers. Saddle Horses, Boating and Fishing in deep sea if required. Torquay and Neighbourhood in the months of April, May, June, September, October, are simply delightful. The Establishinent. is patronised by the Medical Men of Torquay and District, and is under the careful supervision of a well qualified Lady and Gentleman For prospectus apply to the Manager. W. BENNET DAW, Proprietor. 86 TOTLAND BAY-——TOTNES—TYNDRUM——TROSSACHS. TOTLAND BAY, NEAR ALUM BAY AND’ FRESHWATER, Ise oF WIGHT. LTOTLAND BAY HOTEL. MAGNIFICENT SEA VIEWS. (jOMFORT with Moderate Charges. Billiard Room. Bracing air, excellent Sands. and Promenade’ Pier. .\Good Boating and Bathing. Apply to MANAGER. TOTNES. THE SEYMOUR FAMILY HOTEL And Posting House. ON THE BANKS OF THE DART.. Patronised by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. Omnibus meets all Trains and Steamboats. G. & F. MITCHELL, Proprietors. TYNDRUM. ROYAL HOTEL. OSEPH STEWART, of Crianlarich Hotel, begs to intimate that he has taken a lease of the above First-Class Hotel, which, having been built within the last few years, contains superior accommodation, having large and lofty Bedrooms, Baths, etc., with excellent Public Rooms and Private Parlours, Billiard Room, Smoking Room, etc. The whole house has been. beautifully furnished anew, and forms one of the most com- fortable and healthful resorts in the Highlands. First rate Cuisine. Table d’Hote Breakfasts and Dinners. Wines, Spirits, and Malt Liquors of best qualities. The outdoor attractions include splendid Lawn-Tennis Court, with nets and all appliances, Excellent Trout Fishing free of charge in Loch Nabea, Loch Dochart, and River Fillan. Boats and Boatmen in attendance. Parties boarded by. week or month. Posting in all its branches. Within three minutes’ walk of Railway Station. TROSSACHS. STRONACHLACHER HOTEL. (HEAD OF LOCH KATRINE.) [P)ONALD FERGUSON begs to intimate that he has lately completed extensive alterations and additions to his Hotel, and that it will be his constant endeavour, as heretofore, to secure every comfort and atten- tion to Tourists and others favouring him with their patronage. It is the best Fishing-Station, and Boats, with experienced Boatmen, are always in readiness. During the Season Coaches run to and from Inyersnaid in connection with Steamers on Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond, Carriages and other Conveyances kept for Hire. TROSSAGHS, ; " 8T TH BE ‘TROSSACHS HOTEL, LOCH KATRINE, BR BLAIR, Proprietor, iGOIaY H e ote HIS..Firsr- as EE ds beautifully situated in’ the niidst of the classic’ scenery of Scott’s “ Lady of bhe Eas a andi 18 the ONLY HOTEL in the Trossachs, Parties staying for not less than a week can. be boarded, on SPECIAL TERMS, excepting from,15th July to, 15th Sept. During the season ‘Coaches run from Callander Railway Station to the Trossachs, in connection with all Trains, and in connection with all Steamers on Loch Katrine. These eanee all oR ab this Hotel ; giving passengers: time to Lunch.: : Excellent. Fishing in Lochs Katrine and Aakaee Boats ‘oh gaged at the Hotel, aad at the Boathouse Loch Katrine Pier. BILLIARDS. LAWN TENNIS. Address THE TROSSACHS HOTEL, Loch Katrine, By CALLANDER,;: N.B. R. BLAIR, Proprietor. 88 WELLS—YORK-—HYDROPATHIC (MALVERN) ESTAB.—COACHES. WELLS, SOMERSET. THH SWAN HOTEL, FACING, AND PRIVATE WALK TO, THE CATHEDRAL, For Taritf of Charges, see the “Swan Hore. VIsirors’ GUIDE TO WELLS,” price 6d., or to YORK. HARKER’S YORK HOTEL, ST. HELEN’S SQUARE. HIS long-established First-Class Hotel occupies the most central and best Situation in the City, being nearest to the Minster, the Ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey, and other objects of interest ; is within five minutes’ walk of Station and free from noise of Trains. P. MATTHEWS, Proprietor. GREAT MALVERN. HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT. D® RAYNER’S Hydropathic Establishment and Winter Residence, Great Malvern. Hydropathy, Electricity in every form, Massage, Droitwich Brine and Medicated Baths, and other curative agents. Aix Bath for the treatment of rheumatism, gout, neuralgia, &c., as at Aix-les-Bains. Quiet rooms for the treatment of patients by the Weir-Mitchell method, Separate terms to Visitors not requiring medical treatment. For Prospectus apply to T, RAYNER, M.D., as above. THE BRAEMAR, DUNKELD, BLAIRGOWRIE, AND GLENSHEE COAGHES — WILL COMMENCE RUNNING ON Ist JULY, Leaving BRAEMAR at 8 A.M., DUNKELD at 9.A.M., BLAIRGOWRIE at 11 A.M., every lawful day. Firt Arms Horet, BRAEMAR, April 1887. COACHES——RAILWAYS. 89 NORTH DEVON. LYNTON AND MINEHEAD. The Well-appointed Fast Four-Horse Coach “LORNA DOONE ” Le Commenced running. for the Season on the 25th Saas April between. Railway Station, Minehead, and ~= = Royal Castle Hotel, Lynton. For particulars see G. W. Railway Time Tables and Bills, THOMAS BAKER Jun., Proprietor. Private Hore, Lynron. LYNTON, LYNMOUTH, AND. BARNSTAPLE, The quickest route to London by three-quarters of dn hour. . THE Well-Appointed Fast Four-Horse Coach ‘‘Tantivy ’ (carrying the Mails) runs daily throughout the year (Sundays excepted), in connection with the trains of p _L. and 8. W. Railway, passing through some of the finest scenery in Devonshire. y $ é . dep. 8 OAM } Waterloo . : . dep. 9. 0AM. Barnstaple 3 wiarr.,.10 55 5, g Barnstaple . + arr. 3 21 P.M. 9 whi dep. iY 3) ha ° 2 : $ dep. 3 40 »,, Waterloo ; arr. 5 17 P.M. A \bynton. . . arr. 6 30%,, Through Tickets isons at all L..& 8. W. Railway Stations. Booking Office opposite Valley of Rocks Hotel, Lynton. JONES BROS.,.House Agents, Lynton, Proprietors. =I, LONDON & SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY, WATERLOO. STATION, LONDON. The Shortest and Quickest Rout e to the South-West and West of England, EXETER, BARNSTAPLE, BIDEFORD (“ West- ward Ho !.”), ILFRACOMBE, NORTH and SOUTH DEVON, BUDEvid Hotswortuy, TAVISTOCK, LAUNCESTON, PLY- MOUTH, DEVONPORT, WEYMOUTH, SWANAGE, CORFE CASTLE, BOURNEMOUTH, SOUTHAMPTON, PORTS- MOUTH, STOKES BAY, and ISLE OF WIGHT, The only throughout. Railway to Ilfracombe. FAST EXPRESSES AT ORDINARY FARES, AND FREQUENT FAST TRAINS. Trains convey Third-Class Passengers. CHEAP TOURIST AND EXCURSION TICKETS. Through Tickets in connection with the London and North-Western, Great Northern, and Midland Railways. Regular Mail. Steam-Ships, vid Southampton, to and from the CHANNEL ISLANDS, JERSEY, and GUERNSEY. Also Fast Steam-Ships for Havre, RovEN, and PARIS, St. MALO, CHERBOURG, GRANVILLE, and Honrieur. The Company’ s Steam- Ships are not surpassed i in Speed or Accommodation by any Channel Vessels, CHARLES SCOTTER, General Manager. RAILWAYS. “EAST COAST “EXPRESS” ROUTE. GREAT NORTHERN .AND NORTH-EASTERN RAILWAYS.” SPECIAL EXPRESS TRAINS BETWEEN LONDON & EDINBURGH & GLASGOW. LonpoN & Epinsureu 8 Hrs. 55 Mins. To Guascow In 10 Hrs. 20 Mins, SPECIAL DAY EXPRESS TRAINS run between Glasgow, Edinburgh, and London, as under: DOWN. UP. Krnq’s CROSS ...... Dep. 10.0 a.m. | PERTH. ..../.4. a Dep. 7/30)-A.M. EDINBURGH... ...4:. Arr, 7.0. P.M. | GLASGOW......0s0.0- 2 TT RE ald GLASGOW 2. csc ceeves - 8:20. ..5, EDINBURGH........ 5h Oe £2,» Partai) detail at 918 5-4'y, Kine’s CROss....... Arr OC ficer.M. THROUGH WEEK-DAY SERVICE BETWEEN LONDON AND ScoTLAND BY East Coast Rovure. DOWN. | A B | Sat, UP. Aes A.M.| A.M.| A.M. | P.M. | P.M. | P.M. | po. A.M, | A.M. | A.M,| A.M.} P.M. Kineo’s X; Dp. 5.15 10.0 |10.35| 8.0*} 8.30/10.30 8.30 .WICK.. ..Dp.12.10} 8.0 | a Edinburgh Ar. 3.40, 7.0 | 8.38] 4.55] 6.15 6.15|| Thurso. . 4512.25) 8i10!- .. ra oe Glasgow.. ,, 5.20} 8.20/10.25| 6.20|..7.45 7.55 Helmsdale 9p 1-B.380/1018% .. yee 2.20 Stirling ...,, 5.18] 8,25/10.26| 6.30) 7.41 W387 ||Golspie... ,,° 4.30/10.56)2 2.7) =. |+3.24 Oban..... TMM Li. (i SCN Wek i 2) Peace be oot Enrverness: 510-10 Srey tO. 0 Perth », 6.40) 9.35)11,36)° 7.20) 8.35 8.30|; Aberdeen. ,, 1.20}, 4.40) 8.55 Dundee... ,,_ 6.45|10.30/12.40| 8.20] 9.50 9.5 P.M. | Aberdeen. ,, 8.40) 3.5 | 3.5 | 9.55}11.15) 12.0 || Dundee....,, 4.0 | 6.40'°7.0 }7.0 {11.5 Inverness. ,, 7% }/ BI5 458. |11-50} 1615 1.30}| Perth. .: J. 37 4,20) 7.85. 7.30}. 7.30}12.0 GOlspie c= ha dis OlUe Al Sie 3.04 ele 5.14!) Oban... 2. 5, 12.40) 4.0 l= t-6.10 Helmsdale,, .. | 2.10) 2,10) 4.1 | .. 5.51] Stirling. 3, 9.19] 8.41, 8.40) 8.40} 1.5 Thurso.... ,, 4.40} 4.40) 6.0 | .. 7.50}; Glasgow..°’,, 6.0 | 9.5) 8.45} 8.45} 1.0 Wick}. 5. 0 5.0 | 6.10] -. » a oO Edinburgh », 7.85)10.40-10.0. |10,15}. 2.50 A. Does not leay e King’s Cross on Saturdays or Sun-|) K1ne’s X, Ar. 5.45] 8.15 7.0 | 8.30} 2.10 days. - A.M.| AVM.) P.M.| Pom. |/A.M. B. The train leaving King’s Cross at 10.30 p.m. on Saturdays does not run north of Berwick on Sunday morning. C. Not-run from Inverness on Saturday nights. Third-class tickets are issued by all trains, except the additional Special Scotch Express trains, from King’s Cross at 10.0.a.M., and Edinburgh at 10.0 A.M. | ~ It is intended that this train service sent be in force until Ist July, but from that date the night express train service will be altered, and additional expresses run between King’s Cross and Scotland by East Coast route, An additional day express will leave King’s Cross at about 10.25 a.m. for Edin- burgh. The down night service will be improved, and an additional train run from King’s Cross.. The 10.40 p.m. up express from Edinburgh will leave at 10.20 p.m. and be accelerated so as to reach King’s, Cross at 7.10 a.m, New express trains will leave Edinburgh at 12.40 noon and 10.40 p.m., and arrive at Hine’s Cross 10.50 p.m. and 8.0 a.m. respectively. * The 8.0 and 8.30 p.m. Express trains from King’s Cross are in direct connection with the ‘‘Ilona’’ and other West Coast Steamers. PULLMAN CARS & SLEEPING CARRIAGES are attached to the night. trains. Alterations may be made in the times of the trains from month to enti: for particulars of which see the East Coast Railways’ Monthly Time Books. Conductors in charge of through luggage travel with the Express trains leaving London at 10.0 and 10.35 a.M., 8.0 and 8.30 P.m.; and Perth at 4.20 p.m. and 7.30 A.M.; and Edinburgh at 10.0, 10. 15 A.M., 7.35 P.M., and 10.40 P.M. EAST COAST ROUTE. “GREAT NORTHERN AND NORTH-EASTERN RAILWAYS. TOURIST TICKETS,—From 16th May to 31st October, Ist, 2d, and 8d class tourist tickets, available for return, without extra payment, wntil 31st December 1887, will be issued from London (King’s Cross, G.N.R.), 111 Strand, 285 Oxford Street, at the Offices of Messrs. Swan & Leach, 32 Piccadilly Circus, and 3 Charing Cross ; and at Victoria (L. C. & D.), Moorgate Street and Finsbury Park Stations, etc., etc., to the under-mentioned stations in Scotland, at fares as under :— FARES FROM KINGS CROSS. Ist class |2d class|3d class Ist class | 2d class} 8d class ea) ie S5(T Os Sus) Sage Sines Si a Oe @BERWICK . . 94 01 75 4 49 6 ||St. ANDREWS . 121 9 88.10 56.0 a@MELROSE,. via COLDSTREAM , 96. 8 76 0 50. 0 Hexham- ..' «. 99 6] 74 9 50: «0 |(DUNDER! 3i..2) 6. 125-38 90 8 56 0 PEEBLES} ....) 2.) 104.9 Es 50.0 ||ARBROATH’ | ., 128 8 92 2 56 0 @EDINBURGH . 109 6] 79 9 50 0 ||MonTROSE’. . 133 0 94 6 56.07 PORBART 2.2) 000480 «3.1! 938. -8 56 0 |(BRECHIN.: 2... 133° 0 94 6 56 0 GLascow .. ..'110' 3] 81 2 52 0 ||ABERDEEN . . 133 6 94 9 56 0 HELENSBURGH. 112 9] 82 4 62.10 ||BALDATER. . -. (148618410105 673 62 10 LARBERT 2. | 29 112-0) 82-0 52.0 ||PrrLocary:.: ©. .,131p.2 93. 6 56 0 STIRLING) .4 114 631. 83 10 53. 6 |ISTRUAN &. . 184.4 95 10 57 10 BRIDGE OF ALLAN 115° 0] 84 6 54 0 BoaT OF GARTEN ) | DUNBLANE... . 115 6] 84 9 54 0 |IGRANTOWN . .}+147 61103 9 60 0 CALLANDER. . 118 6 es BE. 40 HIT eR, on CPS oe OCRIEFF ©) 30..08.0 127.26), 88 -8 54:0 (}ELGIN. 05.6 . 148. .6.|104.3 60. 0 KAA, 1 ie 2120.0 F 59 0 ||INVERNESS . . DALMALLY . ... 129. 9 C3L0! | NAIR Ne sl.lede oho: 150.0.) 205. 0 60 0 LocH AWE... 130 8 62. 6 |}FORRES . CONNEL FERRY igk~--9. 63:6. );DINGWALL> « . .150. 0-| 108.11 63 1 TAYNUILT -. 2 °131 3 63 0 ||STRATHPEFFER. 151 8 | 10911} 63 8 OBAN,viaDalmally 132 3 64 0 ||ACHNASHEEN . 157 6/112 6) 67 6 OBAN, via Glasg’ STROME FerRy 164 9/117 41! 70 O or Helensburgh 130 8/101 2) 63 0 |\Laire. . . . 160 0-115 0| 70 0 Osan, Cire. Tour 131 3 me 63 6 ||GOLSPIE .-. . 165 0|118 9]. 72 6 Perte 9) 2 Aid) 123':3.|5 88 “8 54 0 ||HELMSDALE. . 170 0 | 122 6 75 0 DUNKELD . . 127 8] 90 10},.54'0 ||THURSO . . . 184 6} 133 9] 83 0 ABERFELDY . . 132 3] 94 41} 5610 ||WIck. .-. 186-91135 4]. 84-0 From Victoria (L. C. & D.) and Moorgate, 8d. Ist, and 6d. 2d class, will be added to the‘ King’s Cross fares, except to Berwick. «a Tickets are also issued from Broad St. to Berwick, Melrose, and Edinbro’ at fares as follows:—Berwick, same as from King’s Cross; Melrose and Edinbro’, 8d.-1st, and 6d. 2d class, higher than King’s Cross. BREAK OF JOURNEY.—Passengers may break their journey, both injgoing and returning, at Peterboro’; also at Grantham or Voneaster to enable them to visit Lincoln Cathedral, paying the ordinary fares between those places and Lincoln, and at York to enable them to visit Harrogate, Scarboro’, and the East Coast watering-places, and also at Darlington, Durham, Newcastle (for Newcastle Exhibition),* Bilton, and Belford, re- suming it by trains having carriages attached corresponding to the class of ticket held ; also at Berwick or any station north of Berwick on the routes by which the tickets are available. Passengers for places north of Edinburgh and Larbert may break the journey in Edinburgh and at Glasgow, and also at any station at which the train ordinarily stops. Tickets between Great Northern stations and places north of Larbert are available at Kdinburgh and also at Glasgow. Passengers breaking the journey at Glasgow may travel to or from the north via Greenhill or Polmont without additional payment, provided they make use of N. B. Co.’s trains to and from Glasgow (Queen St. station).. The journey can be broken both going and returning, and without restriction as to period, except that the return journey must be completed within the time for which the ticket is available. Passengers with tickets for Melrose are also at liberty to break the journey at St. Bos- well’s tor Dryburgh Abbey. The above facilities and arrangements, as regards passengers breaking their journey, apply equally to 1st, 2d, and 3d class. * The Royal Mining and Engineering, etc. etc., Exhibition at Newcastle will be open Jrom 11th May wntil 31st October. The Royal Agricultural Show will be at Newcastle from July 11th to 15th. The holders of through tickets to Scotland may break the journey at Newcastle when going north and when returning to the south. ; #or turther intormation apply at the Offices of the East Coast Ry. Cos. in, Edinburgh, 9 Princes St.; Glasgow, 32 West George St.; Perth, General Sta- tion; Dundee, 33 Cowgate ; Aberdeen, 28 Market St.; Inverness, 6 Academy St.; Oban, Bank of Scotland Buildings (Mr. J. Stuart). 92 RAILWAYS. LONDON & NORTH-WESTERN AND CALEDONIAN RAILWAYS, West Coast Royal Mail Route vetween England & Scotland Via PRESTON: anp CARLISLE. TRAIN SERVICE—Ist, 2d, and 3d Class by all Trains. STATIONS. WEEK - Days. SUNDAYS. a.m.|a.m.| a.m. |a.m.| p.m. p-m.| p.m. ngtt}p.m.| p.m. |nght London (Huston)....dep.} 5.15) 7.15/10.0 {10.10} 8.0.) 8.50;10.0 | /12.0 | 8.50)10.0 {12.0 Birmingham (New 8t.).. ,, | 7.30).8.50)12.0 {12.0 |10.15 10.15/12, 3.10}10.15}10:15) 3.10 Liverpool (Lime Street) .,, | 9.40)11.10) 1.45) 3.45|11.40/12.45) .. 2.35j12.45) 0 ds} 2.35 dj (Exchange) .. ,, |10.7)/11.35}.2/20) 8.25) .. eT aS ote bas R i. Manchester (Exchange) ,, |10.0:j11.5 } 2.0 | 4.0 |11.40) 1.0] ©... | BOnuex Se iy (and Y.)..',, -|10.0 ./11.10)1.45)'8.25} ... : .. CP eeh loos! tase . Moffatic.. . sh. dd. 2.0. Gt arr.| 2.47] /4:27) 6.52)... | i |) Te 2QLL7 | cou POR BAI? Edinburgh (Princes Street) ,, .| 4.15) 5.50) §.0 |10.5 6.55) 9.0 ° |12.52) 6:55) -9.0.:/12.52 Glasgow (Central Station) ,, | 4.25) 6.0.) 8.0 |10.15| 6.0 | 7.5 | 9.15 | 1.5. f 7.5. | 9.14) °1.5 Greenocky,. Ah od i. Bs. at », | 9.38) 7.13) °9.3 |11.57| 7.5} 8.45/*10.43) 2.46] 8.45)10.43) 2.46 DLirling ade. 5 ti oie tee ois ae »» | 5841) 4. | 8.25/10.45) 6.30, 7.41/*9.50 | 1.57] 7.56) 9.50), 1.57 Oban. .005.5 By fath eas 53 +} DAK re hs | ASB ba 1225 | Pax, 6.17}12.25) » 2. 4) 6.17 Perils sstumiia sniatikee eek jel BO: 45 lads 9.35/11.50) 7.20) 8.55|*11.10)}: 3.35) 8.50}11.10) 3.35 Dufide@?. .. dS ee »> | %30! ++ '/10,30}12.40 8.20, 9.50/*12.5 | 4.45}10.0 |12.5°| 4.45 A Derde eM se snre cae ndetatcte oh », |10.0 .. | 3.5 | 9.55/12.0 1*2.15°} 8.30112.0. | 2.15} 8.30 Invérness.:.f) . Gab i... 4 ail Jess A Z 8.5. |11.50/*6.5 |*6.5 oul 6. StS Re ~~ No connection to places marked (*) on Saturday nights. + Not on Saturday nights from London. | Up TRAINS. a.m. | p.m.}a,m.|a.m.)a.m.| p.m.|p,m.| p.m, §a.m.|-p.m.| INVERNESS, 1} oclgbie «le dhe» dep.) jqali lOO} oes ‘ »» |; 8.0 hepsi ofhOnL Obi. Aberdeen ih oSE.|. as. de is BIOs |yxe% | §.55)12,30)...... || 4.40 ay 12.30}..; .. Dumeeey. .210. cabbb be bers Os ‘ 7.40)... |11.5 | 3.30) .. | 6.40) 23,938.10)... Oban .87:..% 45 astkb ch Gue ot Wak, eee rc <¢ || 6.10,12.40) .. || 40ers Sout “i : Perthi.¢;..} 3 Gh 1, - 05 1»; 2%. 8.80)... |12.0,] 4.13) aa | 780 BP S4 | eos Stirkings. 1) «bb LOCHNESS ETHEL MABEL Sail during the Season for Kyles of Bute, Ardrishaig, Oban, Ballachulish (for Glencoe), Fort William, Banavie, Inverness, Staffa, Iona, Lochawe, Islay, Tobermory, Portree, Strome Ferry, Gairloch (for Lochmaree), Ullapool, Lochinver, Lochmaddy, Tarbert (Harris), Stornoway, Thurso, etc., affording Tourists an opportunity of visiting the magnificent scenery of Glencoe, the Cuchullin Hills, Quiraing, Loch Coruisk, Loch Scavaig, Lochmaree, the Falls of Foyers, and the famed Islands of Staffa and Iona. Official Guide, 3d.; Illustrated, 6d.; Cloth Gilt, 1s. ‘Time Bill, with Map and Fares, free by Post from the owner, DAVID MACBRAYNE, 119 Hope Street, Glasgow. STEAMERS. 101 DUBLIN & GLASGOW STEAM PACKET COMPANY. Tur Company’s splendid Saloon Paddle Steamships—DvuxkE of ARGYLL, DuKE of LEIN- sTeR, Lorp Ciypr, Lorp Govan, and the. new Screw Steamer GENERAL GORDON, or other Steamers, are intended to Sail, unless prevented by any unforeseen occurrence, to and from GuLaseow & DuBLin, calling at GREENOCK. SAILINGS AS PER MONTHLY BILLS. GLASGOW to DUBLIN. —Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and every alternate Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Train from Central Station, Glasgow, at:6.30 p.m. ; Steamer leaving Greenock about 7.30 p.m. DUBLIN to GLASGOW. —KEvery Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and every alternate Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Fares.—From Glasgow (including Steward’s Fees), Cabin, 15s.3 Ditto (including Rail to Greenock), 16s. 3d: Return Tickets (available for Six Months), £1:2:6; Ditto (including Rail to Greenock), £1:5s. Steerage fare from Glasgow, 6s. (including rail to Greenock), 6s. 9d. Return Tickets (available for six months), 10s. (including rail to Greenock), 11s. 6d. Through Express Train (per Caledonian Railway) from Leith at 4.30 p.m., and from Edinburgh (Princes Street Station) at 5 p.m. to Greenock in direct con- nection with the Dublin Steamer. Passengers are also booked through from the follow- ing Railway Stations to Dublin, and vice versa, viz.— Return, avail- : Return, avail- : Single. able for 2 mths. || Single. [ble for 2 mths. 3 cl. & 3 cl. & 3 cl. & 3 cl. & 1stcl. Strage. 1st cl. Strage. Istcl. Strace. Ist el. Strage. Bed, ) 8-* a.) 8. OG. | Sta. || et eee | BGs 8. a, Alloa % ..2G8 19 1} 8 7%) 26.4413 .2 |\Forfar......|30.-0] 13 103|.40. 0 | 19,10 Arbroath...| 30 8| 14 33) 40 10 | 20 5 | Hamilton...)17 3) 7 43) 27. 0 }.12 9 Aberdeen ..| 39. 6} 18.8 | 51:11 | 25.10:|/Imverness,..|48 6] 23 3] 73. 2 | 48..2 Crietiageaaet 23.-=6.410---#4|-81-11--|--15-10-—}Leith. .. 2... 20..0/- 8 .6.| 30 0] 14 0 Callander ..|21 0} 9 9) 28 9 | 14.8 ||Montrose...|33 6/15 8] 44 5] 22 1 Dundee (W.)| 28 0/ 12 11} 37 6|18 7 |/Perth.......)24 GO 1h, 8)| 88 2 /-16> 6 Dumfries...| 27 9] 12 10] 42 11 | 21 5-||Paisley..... 16 3; 6-95) 25 70 ASG Dunblane .3)19 10; 8 104 27-47 13 7 |\Stirling...../19 0); 8 5] 26 3] 13 0 Edinburgh, .|20 0{| 8 6130 0]14 0 Booking Office at Dublin for Passengers—l EpEN Quay. Chief Office and Stores— 71 NortH WatLL, Dusiiy. Goods carried at Through Rates from Glasgow and Greenock to Inland Towns in Ireland; and also from a number of the Principal Railway Stations in Scotland to Dublin and Inland Stations in Ireland, and vice versa. Further par- ticulars, Monthly Bills, &c., on application to the undermentioned agents :— JAMES LITTLE & CO., Excise Buildings, Greenock, and HENRY LAMONT, 93 Hope Street, adjoining Central Station, and Broomielaw, Glasgow. A. TAYLOR, DUBLIN, Secretary. B. MANN, Dustin, General Monier LOCH LOMOND SALOON STEAMERS. (COMMENCING ist JUNE.) Loch Lomond.—Leave Batuocn Primer, daily about 8.45, 10.30 . AM, 12.25 pm., and 5 p.m. Heap or Loc on Mondays'at 6. 15 A.M: ; daily: (except Monday) at 8. 30. A:M.; daily at 10.40 A.M, 11.20 and. 4.10 P.M. THOMAS McLEAN, Manager, 99 Main Sie ALEXANDRIA, ON: B. 102 STEAMERS. GLASGOW, BELFAST, BRISTOL, CARDIFF, NEWPORT, AND SWANSEA STEAMERS, ‘MEDWAY,’ ‘SOLWAY,’ ‘AVON,’ ‘SEVERN,’ ‘PRINCESS ALEXANDRA,’ GAL with Goods and Passengers from GLAscow to BRISTOL via BELFAST every Monday and Thursday at 2 P.M.;. GLASGOW to CARDIFF and SWANSEA every Friday at.2 P.M.; to NEWPORT. every alternate Friday at 2 P.M. From Brisron to GLAscow every Monday and Thursday ; SwANsEA to GLAsGow every Wednesday ; CARDIFF to GLAsGow every Monday; NEwporr to GLAsGow every alternate Tuesday. Fares (GLascow)—Cabin, 20s.; Steerage 12s. 6d. ; Deck (Soldiers or Sailors), 10s. », (Be.rast)—Cabin, 17s. 6d.; Steerage, 10s. Returns for Cabin and Steerage issued at Fare anda half available for Two Montus, Above Route offers a favourable opportunity for making a pleasant Sea trip to or from South of England. fae Cabin Return Tickets will be available for return by the Carron Company’s: Steamers now running between London and Grangemouth, or by the Londom and Edinburgh Shipping Company’s Steamers from London to Leith, thus affording Tourists a good opportunity of sailing by both East and West Coast. Passengers availing themselves of this arrangement, however, will require to pay their own Railway fares between Grangemouth or Leith and Glasgow, and between Bristol and London, or iY tate For Rates of Freight and other particulars, apply to Mark Wuitwitu & Son, Bristol; M. Jones & Bro., Swansea; E. Taytor & Co., Cardiff; R. Burton & Son, Newport (Mon.); W. KE. WiLLiamgs, Belfast ; D. M‘Doucatt1, Greenock ; or WILLIAM SLOAN & CO., 140 Hope Street, Glasgow. ABERDEEN pa AND LONDON Average Passage 36 Hours. THE ABERDEEN STEAM NAVIGATION GO.'S STEAMSHIPS BAN-RIGH, CITY OF LONDON, or CITY OF ABERDEEN, will be despatched (weather, etc., permitting) from ABERDEEN, and from The Aber- deen Steam Navigation Co.’sWharf, Limehouse, LONDON, every Wednesday and Saturday. FarEs—including Stewards’ Fees—Private Cabins accommodating four passengers, £6. Private Cabins, if occupied by fewer than four passengers, £5. Single Tickets—ist Cabin, 30s. ; 2d Cabin, 15s.; Children under 14 years, 15s. and 10s. Return Tickets—available for six months—45s. and 25s. ; Children, 25s. and l5s, Notice to Passengers.—The Co.’s steam tender ‘Ich Dien’ will attend the Steamers on their arrival in London for the purpose of conveying Passengers to the Temple Pier, Thames Embankment ; she willalso leave that Pier one hour before the advertised times of sailing, conveying passengers only to the Aberdeen Steamers free of charge. Friends of passengers wishing to accompany them to the Steamers, may do so on getting written per- mission from the Company’s Agent. Porters will be in attendance to carry the Luggage on board. For further particulars apply to Joun A. CLINKSKILL, Agent, The Aberdeen Steam Navigation Co.’s Wharf, Limehouse; and 102 Queen Victoria Street, E.C., London ; or to CHARLES SHEPHERD, Manager, Waterloo Quay, Aberdeen. STEAMERS. 103 LEITH AND LONDON. THE LONDON & EDINBURGH SHIPPING COMPANY’S SPLENDID FAST-SAILING SCREW-STEAMSHIPS METEOR (New Steamer), IONA, MALVINA, MARMION, MORNA, OR OTHER OF THE COMPANY’S STEAMERS (Lighted by Electricity), Sail from Vicrorta Dock, Lriru, every Wednesday, Friday, and Satur- day afternoon ; and from HERMITAGE STEAM WHARF, LONDON, every Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday morning. For Rates of Freight and Fares, apply to THomas AITKEN, 8 & 9 Commercial Street, Leith. CIRCULAR TOURS. GLASGOW AND THE QUTER HEBRIDES. ONE Week’s Pleasure Sailing by the splendid sea-going Steamer HEBRIDEAN, sailing from Glasgow and Greenock on Mondays for Oban, Mull, Skye, Barra, Uist, etc., affords the Tourist a splendid opportunity of viewing the magnificent scenery of the West of Skye and the Outer Hebrides. N.B.—During the Season special trips are made to the far-famed island of St. Kilda, when passengers are given facilities for landing; also to Loch Rony, from which the Druidical remains at Callernish may be visited. Time Bills, Maps of Route, Cabin Plans, and Berths secured at JOHN M‘CALLUM & CO., 12 Ann 8t., City, Glasgow. GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS. WEEKLY CIRCULAR TOUR. [HE Favourite Steamer DuNARA CASTLE sails from Glasgow every Thursday at 12 Noon, and from Greenock at 7 p.m., for Colonsay, Iona, Bunessan, Tyree, Barra, Vist, Skye, and Harris, returning to Glasgow on Wednesdays. Affords to Tourists the opportunity of about a week’s comfortable Sea Voyage, and at the same time a Panor- amic View of the magnificent scenery of the Outer Hebrides. CABIN Fare (superior sleeping accommodation), 45s. CUISINE (excellent)—Breakfast, 2s.; Dinner, 2s. 6d.; Tea, : 2s. Time Bills (with Maps) and Berths secured on application to MARTIN ORME, 20 Robertson Street, ratings 104 | STEAMERS, TO TOURISTS. LEITH AND ABERDEEN TO NORWAY. FULL particulars (and Hand-Book, 6d.) of the Tourist Service by the Splendid New Steamship St. SUNNIVA to the West Coasts and Fiords of NoRwAY may be obtained at the Offices men- tioned below. STEAM FROM LEITH TO ABERDEEN, CAITHNESS, ORKNEY, AND SHETLAND. TuE North of Scotland and Orkney and Shetland Steam Navigation Company’s Royal Mail Steamships ‘‘Sr. RoGNyALp,” ‘Sr. Macenus,” ‘‘Sr. NicHouas,” ‘*Sr. Cuarr,” and ‘‘ QUEEN,” sail from ALBERT: Dock, Leith, to ABERDEEN . : , ' Four times a week, CAITHNESS . ‘ , : d Twice-a week. ORKNEY AND SHETLAND . : Three times a week. Special Tourist Tickets during the Season. Bills of Sailings, Plans of Cabins, Maps of Routes, Guide Books, ote, j to be had on application to CHARLES MERRYLEES, Manager, Aberdeen ; or GEORGE Hoursron, Agent, 64 Constitution PETAO, Leith and 18 Waterloo Place, Edinbur glia Berths secured at 18 Waterloo Place, Edinburgh. CHEAPEST.AND SHORTEST ROUTE. BETWEEN ENGLAND AND NORWAY. May to September. THE fast, first-class Norwegian Royal Mail Steamer Norge, 920 tons gross. register, Captain FE. WIESE, leaves Newcastle-on- -Tyne for Bergen every Thursday evening at 7 o'clock, and leaves Bergen for Newcastle every. Saturday evening at 9 o'clock. A SpEcIAL STEAM TENDER conveys passengers and their lug ggage to and from the Norge, anil leaves the Ferry Handing at Newcastle Quay (5 minutes’ drive from the Station) every Tuesday at 6 FARHS :—First Class, £3; Return £5. Including all meals and Steward’s fees (wines, etc., extra). Average passage, 6 hours. For Passage, Freight, or other informa- tioa, apply ‘to BP. Gs HALVORSEN, Bergen, owner; or to the Agents, BORRIES, GRAIG; & Co., Newcastle-on-Tyne, STEAMERS. 105 “ANCHOR LINE.” Transatlantic, Peninsular, Mediterranean, and Oriental Steamships. Tons. Tons. Tons, | : ae . Tons. *AcapIA . 1081} Bontvia . 4050) Enysta . 2713} OLyMPIa,, . 2051 ALEXANDRIA 2017 | Britannia . 3069} Eruiopia,. 4004} Persta . 3547 ALsaTIA ; . 2810} CaLeponra.. 2151 | Express . ROUMANIA 8387 AncHoria 4167|CatirorNiA 3410 | Furnessta 5495 *SCANDINAVIA1138 ARABIA . 3544|Crrcassia... 4272 | *HESPERIA 3037 | SHAMROCK ARMENIA .. 3395] Crry or Rome 8415 | Hispanta 8380)/*Smpontan 1382 ASIA . 8560|Conumpra . 2029|INpDIA |. 2476] THREE BROTHERS - AssyRIA . 2022] DESPATCH . Tranta. ..—- 2248] *Trinacria 2256 AusTRALIA 2252|Drvonta . 4270 | *KarnamMania3148 | *Tyrian . 1039 BEtaRAvia 4976! Dorian . 1038|Nuspra® . 3551| Uropra’ ©. 2781 ; * Do not carry Cabin Passengers. Victoria . 38358 “GLASGOW TO NEW YORK, Via MOVILLE, - Every THURSDAY. GREAT. REDUCTION IN FARES. Fares to New York, Boston, or PHILADELPHIA—First Class, £9: 9s. to £12: 12s. 5 Second Class, £6: 6s.; Steerage, at Lowest Rates. LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK (EXPRESS SERVICE). J - Carrying the British and American Mails.» - | ~ /§.8. CITY OF ROMH, 8415 Tons—11th May, 8th June, 6th July, 3d Aug., 81st -Aug., and 28th Sept. First Class, 12 to 25 Gns.;.Second Class, £7; Steerage, at Lowest Rates. ; MEDITERRANEAN SERVICE. Glasgow for Lisbon, Gibraltar, Genoa, Leghorn, Naples, Messina, Palermo, and Trieste, Fortnightly. so ~ RATES OF PASSAGE. x eet is CaBIN Fare—Glasgow to Lisbon, £6:6s.; Gibraltar, £8:8s.; Genoa, £12:12s.; Leghorn, £13:13s.; Naples, £14:14s.; Trieste, £16:16s.; Messina, Catania, or Palermo (via Italy), £16:16s. Passengers are found in a Liberal Table, and all necessaries, except Wines and Liquors, which can be had on board at moderate prices. No Steward’s Fee, DO OHA INDIAN SERVICE. Steamers are Despatched from Glasgow and Liverpool to Bombay and Calcutta (via Suez Canal) at regular intervals, carrying Passengers on the most advantageous terms. Passage Money to Calcutta, £50; to Bombay, £47:10s. All Passengers. . ; MiGs? ~ embark at Liverpool. ; Apply to HENDERSON BroTHERs, 20 Mount Stuart Square, Cardiff; 1 Panmure Street, Dundee ; 17 Water Street, Liverpool; 57 Union Street, Glasgow; 30 Foyle Street, Londonderry ; Scott Square, Queenstown; 8 Rue Scribe, Paris; 2 Rue Noailles, Marseilles ; Gibraltar ; Trieste ; Vienna;.7 Bowling Green, New York; 7 and 9 State Street, Boston; 48. South.Clark. Street, Chicago; J. C, Baings, ,Antwerp.; -WILLIAM Minter, Leghorn ; CHArtes FiGotr, Genoa; Mascarennas &Co., Lisbon; CLEMENS & Prerersen, Malaga; The Sons of. Taos,, Haynes, Cadiz; WM. JArrray, Almeria ; Dart & Co., Valencia and Denia; O. F. GoLLCHER, Malta; O. D1 BENEDETTO, Catania ; F, Tacuiavia & Co., Messina; Hotme & Co., Naples; G. L. Top, Palermo ;, Macquay, Hooker, & Co., Rome; J. D. WAat, Rotterdam; W. Wotrr, 1 Bergedorferstr., Hamburg ; CHARLES De Mitesi, Venice; W. & A. GraHam & Co., Bombay; Grauam & Co., Calcutta ; DetmrGe, Rerp, & Co., Colombo; Bazin & Co., Port Said; G. Bryts & Co., Suez. perpen halt _ HENDERSON BROTHERS, , a7 hip 47 Union-Street, Glasgow, 106 STEAMERS—MISCELLANEOUS. ERAN DN FAROE ISLES AND ICELAND. HE ROYAL DANISH MAIL STEAMERS “LAURA,” “ THYRA,’ es and i ROMNY, ‘ will sail as under during 1887 :— Granton to Faroe and Iceland.—10th* May, Ist* June, 18th June, 5th* July, 21st July, 6th* Aug., 1st* Sept., 1st Oct., 10th Nov. Iceland to Faroe and Granton.—3d* June, Ist® July, 29th June, 31st* July, 5th Aug., 28th* Aug., 24th* Sept., 19th Oct.; 29th Nov. * These Voyages the Steamers sail round Iceland, calling at the Chief Ports. For Freight or Passage apply to GEO. V. TURNBULL & CO., Leith and Granton, Agents for the United Steamship ‘Compan ‘y of Copenhagen. ce BETWEEN SCOTLAND AND ICELAND. NOTICE TO TOURISTS, ANGLERS, & SPORTSMEN, THE First-Class Screw Steamship bd CAMOENS, » 1964 Tons Register, 170 H.P., or other Steamer, will leave S LEITH for ICELAND (unless prevented by unforeseen = = SS. circumstances) regularly during the Summer and Autumn, a ffording Tourists, Anglers, and Sportsmen an excellent opportunity of visit- ing that ‘inter esting Country, its Geysers, Burning Mountains, famous Salmon: Rivers, Reindeer Grounds, &e. The 8.8. ‘‘CAMOENS” is a full-powered, fast Steamer, with superior Passenger accommodation ; has spacious Saloon, Ladies’ Cabin, State Rooms, and Smoke Room. First Casin, £5; RETURN TICKET (available for the Season), £8. Separate State Rooms may be had by special agreement. For Sailing Bills, Plans of Cabin (Guide Books, 5s. and 1s.), and further information apply to R. & D. SLIMON, Leith. FRY’S COCOA. AND COPY ASK YOUR GROCER FOR OF SAMPLE TESTIMONIALS, TRADE MARK. FRY’S PURE CONCENTRATED COCOA Prepared by a new and special scientific process, securing extreme solubility, and developing the finest flavour of the Cocoa. Sir C. A. Cameron, M.D., President of} W. H. R. Srantey, M:D,—‘I consider the Royal College of Surgeons, Ireland, etc. | it a very rich delicious Cocoa. It is highly —‘Thaye never tasted Cocoa that I like so Concentrated, and therefore economical well, and I strongly recommend it as a] asafamily food. Itisthe drink par excellence substitute for tea for young persons.’ for children, and gives no trouble in making.’ 33 PRIZE MEDALS AWARDED TO THE FIRM. MISCELLANEOUS. 107 BERTHON PORTABLE BOATS AND CANOES, For Yacht and Steam Launch Dinghies, Fishing and | Shooting Punts. A LARGE VARIETY AT THE NEW LONDON SHOW ROOM 50° HOLBORN, VIA-DUGT,*E-C, 7-ft, Fishing Boat, Price £8: 2s. Complete. 14 Prize Medals awarded, including 2 Gold Medals and Special Prize for Best Portable Boat at the International Fisheries Exhibition, 1883, and Gold Medals at the Calcutta International Exhibition, 1884, and Edinburgh Exhibition, 1886, ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES AND PRICE LISTS FREE ON APPLICATION. Dinghies;and Canoes fitted with centre boards for sailing now on view at the London Depot. BERTHON BOAT COMPANY, LIMITED.—WORKS: ROMSEY, HANTS. 108 MISCELLANEOUS, By Appointment to H.R. H. the Prince of Wales. [ALLENS PORTMANTEAUS AND STRONG DRESS BASKETS, 87 WEST STRAND, LONDON. NEW ILLUSTRATED] CATALOGUE OF REGISTERED AND PATENTED ARTICLES, POST. FREE. ALLEN’S CONTINENTAL SOLID LEATHER TRUNK. VERY LIGHT AND STRONG. Extra Secure Lock. ALLEN’S EXPANDING PORTMANTEAU contains Separate division for Boots. = 5 3 for Soiled B= Linen. A rr for Shirts. 53 for High Hat, etc. Will go under Railway Seat or Steamer Berth. ” ALLEN’s BAGS, FITTED AND. UNFITTED. 14 Write for Catalogue of these well-known Bags, - ALLEN’S Overland Trunks. From 30s. AN IMMENSE STOCK TO. SELECT FROM. MISCELLANEOUS, 109 MOURNING TOR FAMILIES. JAY'S experienced DRESSMAKERS an MILLINERS travel to any part of the Kingdom free of expense to purchasers They take with them dresses and millinery. besides patterns: of Materials, at 1s. per yard and upwards, all marked in plain figures, and at same price as if purchased: at the Warehouse, in Regent-st. Reasonable estimates are also given for Household Mourning, atia great saving to large or small families Funerals at stated charges conducted in London or Country. The Toten General Mourning Warehouse, REGENT STREET, LONDON, W. 110 MISCELLANEOUS, NOW READY. THE TARTANS OF THE GLANS OF SCOTLAND. CONTENTS. Portrait in colours of His Roya HicHness THE DUKE or RorTuHesay in Highland Dress (Evening Costume), by J. B. M‘Donap, R.S.A. Preface. Historical Account of each Clan, by JAmres Grant, Author of The Romance of War, &c. Armorial Bearings of the Chief of each Clan, illuminated in Gold and Colours. The Badges, War-Cries, and Marches of the Clans. Map of the Highlands of Scotland divided into Clans. LIST OF TARTANS REPRESENTED. Buchanan. Gunn. MacIntyre. Menzies. Cameron, Erracht. Jacobite. MacKay. Monro. Cameron, Lochiel. Lamond. MacKenzie. Murray, Athole. Campbell, Argyll. Leslie. MacKinnon. Murray, Tullibar- Campbell, Breadal- | MacAlister. MacLachlan. dine. bane. MacAulay. MacLaren. Ogilvie. Campbell, Cawdor. MacDonald. | MacLean of Duart. | Rob Roy. Campbell, Loudoun. | MacDonald, Clan- | Maclaine of Loch- | Robertson. Chisholm. ranald. buie. Ross.) Clergy. MacDonald, Glen- | MacLeod. Skene, Colquhoun. garry. MacNab. Sinclair. Cumin. MacDonald, Slate. | MacNaughton, Stewart, Dress. Drummond. MacDonald, Staffa. | MacNeil. Stewart, Hunting. Farquharson. MacDougal. MacPherson. ~ Stewart, Old. Fergusson. MacDuft. MacPherson, Hunt- | Stewart, Prince Forbes. MacFarlane. ing. Charles. Fraser. MacGillivray. MacQuarrie. Stewart, Royal. Gordon. MacGregor. MacRae. Sutherland, Graham, MacIntosh. Malcolm. Urquhart. Grant. MacIntosh; Chief. Matheson. - CONDITIONS OF PUBLICATION. The Work, in Imperial Quarto, is Full-Bound Cloth, having the Royal Arms of Scot- land illuminated in metals and colours. Of this issue there are 900 copies, and the price £2:2s. An Edition de Luxe is published in Imperial Folio, limited to 100 copies. In this edition the Tartans are mounted on tinted Boards and varnished ; the volume is Full-Bound Morocco, Gilt. Each copy is numbered and signed by the Publishers. The price is £8 : 8s, Reviews. ‘*Sumptuous in outward appearance, finished with exquisite taste inside, and full withal of sound historical information, at once curious, interesting, and accurate, no such work concerning the ‘Garb of Old Gaul’ has ever been issued at all approaching in beauty or accuracy to the magnificent folio just sent out by the old and enterprising firm of Messrs. W. & A. K. Johnston of Edinburgh.” —Glasgow Herald, 26th January 1886. “Both outwardly and inwardly—binding, letterpress, and illustrations—it is, in truth, a splendid volume, the most sumptuous, we should be disposed to say, and ex- quisitely finished in its every possible detail, that has ever issued from the Scottish press.”’—Oban Times, 6th February 1886. “‘Messrs. W. & A. K. Johnston have published a large and handsome work on the Clan Tartans of Scotland, which leaves little to be desired in the matter either of the engraved and coloured plates or the accompanying letterpress. The skill, beauty, and delicacy displayed in the illustrations, and the great taste and effectiveness of the large majority of the patterns can be freely commended.” —The Scotsman, 26th February 1886. ‘¢Preciseness in such a matter is, of course, all important, and the great merit of Messrs. Johnston’s volume will consist in fixing, in a permanent form, the exact patterns and colours of the historical Tartans of Scotland, for the use of present and future generations.”—The Bookseller, 6th January 1886. ‘‘ Nothing can excel the accuracy and beauty with which the cloth, both in colour and texture, has been imitated in these plates. Each plate, moreover, is accompanied by a few notes on the clan to which the particular tartan appertains.” —Chambers’s Journal, 83rd March 1886. W. & A. K. JOHNSTON, EDINBURGH: EDINA WORKS, EASTER ROAD, Anp 16 SOUTH ST. ANDREW STREET. LONDON: 5 WHITE HART STREET, WARWICK LANE, E.C. 1886. MISCELLANEOUS. 111 THE SUMMER SUN. Ladies playing tennis, boating, paentine driving, and all exposed t, the scorching rays of the sun an & heated particles of dust, will find | ROWLANDS KALYDOR most cooling, soothing and refreshing to the face, hands and arms; it eradicates freckles, tan, sunburn, stings of insects, roughness, redness, etc.; renders the skin soft, smooth and white, and produces a beautiful and delicate complexion ; it removes the baneful effects of sea bathing on the skin; it is warranted free from mineral or poisonous ingredients, or oxide of zinc, of which most cosmetics are composed, and is perfectly harmless to the most delicate skin. ROWLANDS' MACASSAR OIL prevents the hair falling off or becoming dry during summer ROWLAN DS’ ODONTO is 4 ure, fragrant, and nonsgritty tooth powder. Ask for ROWLANDS’ articles, of 20, Hatton Garden, London. Sold everywhere. ROWLANDS’ KALYDOR can now be had in bottles of half the usual size at 2s, 3d. each. TO HER MAJESTY. ALFRED BURGOINE, Yacht, Steam Launch, Boat, and Canoe Builder, High Street, Kingston-on-Thames, and Hampton Wick. GOLD AND BRONZE MEDALS, FISHERIES, 1883. SILVER MEDAL, INVENTIONS, 1885. GOLD MEDAL, EDINBURGH, 1886. GOLD MEDAL, GLASGOW, 1886-7. By Special Royal Appointment. SPEARMAN’S DEVON SERGES. PURE WOOL ONLY. FOR ALL SEASONS OF THE YEAR. PLAIN GOLOURS, CHECKS; AND MIXTURES. STRONG! USEFUL! DURABLE! For Ladies’ Wear . r ° 1s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. the yard. For Gentlemen’s Suits’. . 2s. lid. to 10s. 6d. the yard. On Receipt of Instructions Samples will be sent Post Free. N.B.—Any length cut and carriage paid to principal stations in the United Kingdom, ONLY ADDRESS—NO AGENTS: SPEARMAN. SPEARMAN. PLYMOUTH. 0 aA “39 ToweNAIO)}ss LHOAUNHAVG'L ARANLOVAONVIL HO PO “Sh DUY “DE “8B “DET “ST “S3STUIEYO [18 JO “ATV Opssy, edr0sqo 04 [ujervo Od “SNOILVLINI SNOT -Od 008 AUBUI 04 OSTI UaATS sv . 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MISCELLANEOUS. 113 | a Packets Tei five 6° Packets; | per-Post, For 2’9: eVITIES SUPERIOR ) Infants: cof invalids Wee | being -lightera \ Aa more enutritious Wher | thal an a "One ie A AAU *~ qwooistinct-Kinos:- [/ 6 THINonWarer QATCAKES, Cilinburghe Per Tin. THICKaaButrer QATCAKES. n BY 4 MISCELLANEOUS, CANTRELL AND. COGHRANE’S WORLD-RENOWNED TABLE WATERS. the ACME Dp de : Gi Woodstock : London N\ Ey) dtreet, Oxford St 6. Manchester, 1887 cs cD os Cc ——— >pusljoog Loy yodeq Q Manufacturers by Sheaigl Appointment BE | H-R.H. the PRINCE of WALES. 2 3 4 to the Royal Jubilee Exhibition, PSSOSPSSSPSOSS GOES POSOOO SA7 ORKS:—-IO O WiILEIN && RELFAST. P. & J. HAGGART, BREADALBANE MILLS and KELTNEY BURN MILLS, ABERFELDY, N.B., Manufacture HOME-GROWN WOOL into their well-known make of BREADALBANE DEER-STALKING and other TWEEDS in stylish checks, and a variety of HEATHER MIXTURES, suitable for Moor or Loch, and every-day wear. ‘They also manufacture LADIES’ COSTUME TWHEDS, in Saxony or Home Wools. Winceys, Petticoat Stuffs, Genuine Scotch Blankets in Highland and Cheviot Wools, Bedcovers, Cr umbeloths or Druggets (72 in. wide), in plain gray or fancy checks, made up to any size required. Sheeting. Plaiding. The correct sets of the leading Clan Tartans for Kilting or Ladies’ Dresses, i in Cheviot and Saxony Wools. Plaids. Travelling Wraps in Tweed-Patterns, or Clans. Reversible Wraps. Socks and Knickerbocker Hose, hand-knitted, to size ; Home- spun Stocking Yarns in marls, mixtures, and nativedyes. Caps and Hats of Home-spun Tweeds. ANY LENGTH CUT, ‘SYIT OR DRESS LENGTHS BY PARCELS POST, PATTERNS ON APPLICATION. WM. WOOLLAMS. & CcO., _.° ORIGINAL MANUFACTURERS, ARTISTIC WALL- PAPERS, GUARANTEED FREE FROM ARSENIC, Show Rooms:;-110 High Street, Manchester Square, London, W. (Sole Address.) Of all Decorators and Contractors. Seventeen Medals, including Gold Medal, International Health Exhibition. Sole purveyors for Belfast Waters N.B.—Especially adapted to Mansions, Institutions, and Hotels. MISCELLANEOUS. 115 EAMBETH SANITARY ENGINEERING WORKS. é DOULTON & CO., ALBERT EMBANKMENT, LAMBETH, LONDON. The Lambeth Patent ine nm COMBINATION CLOSET, fib | aa i i) COMPRISING _ N i a : The Closet—The Slop Sink—The Urinal. © ADVANTAGES. All Parts are, Open -to, Inspection — | Requires no Enclosure—Is Decorated on ‘\\ u the Outside—Front of Basin Lipped t Form Urinal when Seat is Raised—1 inches of Water retained in Basin with a Water Area equal to Size of Hole i Seat, thus’ Reducing Chance of Soilin Basin ; N.B.—Messrs. Doulton & Co. are the : Original Manufacturers of this Class of - Closet. —=, We —i = 13s ete The: Lambeth’ Patent” INSTANTANEOUS WATER. BOILER _ Obviates necessity: for’ expensive system of 'Hot-Water Pipes—Is. free from all: injurious fumes—Has no visible condensation — Will instantaneously. heat a. stream of Cold Water at any hour.of day or night,.and. to any ' temperature wp to boiling—NO DIRECT CONTACT of the GAS with the WATER— Water and Gas AE DDHRE are so arranged. as, to render it impossible to light the Gas without ~. turning on the Water, thus preventing any ’ chance. of an-accident.common without this precaution... Fx. Also Doulton’s Patent AUTOMATIC FLUSH TANKS & SYPHONS, for keeping Drains and Sewers free from Obstruction. ADVANTAGES :—Simplicity..of. Fixing, Freedom «from Moving. Parts, Facility of Inspection, Instantaneous Action with a Drop by Drop ‘Supply. Price Lists Post Free on Application. SHOWROOMS— ALBERT EMBANKMENT, LONDON. 116 INSURANCE. FOUNDED 1805. Caledonian Insurance Company. Income exceeds. ‘ . £250,000 Funds exceed . . : . £1,100,000 Reserve Funds on a larger scale, relatively to the liabilities, than those of most other Offices. Income and Funds trebled within the last 20 years. Fire and Life Claims paid exceed 2} Millions Sterling. Complete Non-Forfeitable System. Liberal Surrender Values, see Table in Prospectus. Profits may be applied to make the policy payable during life. Manager and Actuary.—D. Drucuar, F.I.A., and F.F.A, EDINBURGH, 19 George Street. GLASGOW, 64 St. Vincent Street. : DUNDEE, Albert Square. ABERDEEN, Albany Buildings, Bridge Street. LONDON, 82 King William Street, E.C., and 9 Craig’s Court, Charing Cross, MANCHESTER, 60 Spring Gardens. LIVERPOOL, C5 Exchange. NEW METHOD OF LIFE ASSURANCE, ENGLISH AND SCOTTISH LAW LIFE ASSURANCE ASSOCIATION. ESTABLISHED 1839. SUBSCRIBED CAPITAL £1,000,000. INVESTED Funps £1,390,000. 120 Princes STREET, EDINBURGH : WILLIAM SmiTH, Esq., LL.D., Manager. 12 WATERLOO PLACE, LONDON : : Francis E. CoLENso, Esq., F.LA,, Beery Trustees, The Right Hon. LORD HALSBURY, Lord High Chancellor of Great Britain. The Right Honourable the EARL OF GLASGOW, Lord Clerk-Register of Scotland. The Right Hon. LORD. MONCREIFF, Lord Justice-Clerk of Scotland. The Honourable LORD ADAM, one of the Judges of the Court of Session. The Honourable SIR WILLIAM V. FIELD, one of the Judges of the Supreme Court. EDWARD KENT KARSLAKE, Esq., Q.C. | WILLIAM SMYTHE, Esq., of Methven. AN ENTIRELY: NEW and ADVANTAGEOUS METHOD of LIFE ASSURANCE is now presented by the é; “DOUBLE” BENEFIT ENDOWMENT POLICIES of this Association, whereby the Sum assured is payable not only to the Assured himself on attaining a cer tain age, but also to his representatives at Death either before or after the former event. These Policies are Non-Forfeitable. Full Particulars on Application. Claims Payable on Proof of Death. Claims Paid exceed £2 401,000. , Nine-Tenths of Profits given to the Assured. ' . Loans are granted, in connection with Life Assurance, on Life Interests, Reversions, Personal, and other approved Securities. . Liberal Conditions as to Foreign Residence. BRANCH OFFICES: GLascow—105 St, Vincent Street.. | Dusiin—41 Lower Sackville Street. INSURANCE. 117) Commercial Anion Assurance Company, Limited. FIRE—LIFE—MARINE. ~ Capital fully Subscribed. f , '£2,500,000 Life Fund in Special Trust for Life Policyholders £1,000,000 Other Funds . ; . &1,300,000 TOTAL INVESTED FUNDS, TWO AND ONE QUARTER MILLIONS. Total Net Annual Income : : , . &£1,140,000 HEAD OFFICE :—19 & 20 CORNHILL, LONDON, E.C. WEST END OFFICE:—8 PALL MALL, LONDON, 8. W. HOME BRANCHES :—Manchester, Liverpool, Neweastle-on- Tyne, Leeds, Nottingham, pirapebant, Norwich, Bristol, Dublin, Edinburgh, and Glasgow. DIRECTORS. W. RErerson ARBUTHXOT, Esq. Right Hon. A. J. MunpDELLA, M.P, RoBERT BaRrciay, Esq.,of Barciny, Haven! & Co. Sir Hunry W. Perk, Bart., of Peek Brothers, & Co. W. MiIppLEToN CAMPBELL, Esq., of Hogg, Curtis, | P. P. Ropocanacui, Esq., of P. P, Rodocanachi Campbell, & Co. & Co. \ JEREMIAH Couman, Esq., of J. & J. Gelman. Txos. RussExt, Esq., C.M.G. Sir James F. GarrIcK, QC. K.C.M, - G. SECHIARI, Esq., of Sechiari Bros. & Co. ALFRED GIuEs, Esq., MP., 26 Great Gears St..S W. . COOPER Scorr, Esq., of Wilson, Sons, & Co., FREDERICK W. Harris, Esq. of Harris & Dixon, Limited, Joun Hoxms, Esq., of Wm. Holms & Brothers. JouNn P. Tatz, Esq. F, LARKWORTHY, Esq., Bank of New Zealand. Joun TROTTER, Esq., of John Trotter & Co, CHARLES J, LEAF, Esq., of Leaf, Sons, & Co, Henry TROWER, Exq., of Trower & Sons, Secretary—Gro. Lyon BENNETT. PROSPECTUSES and all information needful for effecting Assurances may be cbtatnod at any of the Company’s Offices or Agencies throughout the World. FIRE DEPARTMENT. Manager—E. RocerR OWEy, Assistant Manager—Gnro. C. Monawe Undoubted Security guaranteed by the fully subscribed Capital and large invested funds and income. Moderate Rates of Premium, Special terms for long period insurances. Rates quoted and Surveys made free of charge. Claims liberally and promptly settled. LIFE DEPARTMENT. Actuary—T. E. Youna, B.A. The Life Funds are invested in the names of Special Trustees as Security for Claims on this Branch, and Life Policyholders possess, in addition, the Security of the other large funds of the Company. Four-Fifths of the Entire Life Profits are every five years distributed among holders of Participating Policies. At the last division the Cash Return to Policyholders was the large sum of Twenty-five per cent on the premiums paid in the five years. The Assured are under no liability in respect of the engagements of the Company. The Expenses of Management, exclusive of commission, are limited by Deed of Settlement to a moderate percentage on the Premium income. Claims are paid as a rule immediately on proof of death and title. Fixed Minimum Surrender Values are guaranteed on ordinary Whole Life Policies after three years’ duration, and such guarantee is endorsed upon the Policies themselves. ~ Married Women’s Property Act (1882)— Policies are issued to husbands for the benefit of their wives and children, thus creating, without trouble, expense, stamp duty, or legal assistance, a Family Settlement, which creditors cannot touch. -Special Privileges allowed to Naval and Military Officers, Travellers, and Ships’ Officers. ° Interim Bonuses. rae Company’s Prospectus exhibits numerous different modes of effecting assurances. MARINE DEPARTMENT. Underwriter—J. CARR SAUNDERS. Rates for Marine Risks on application. 118 INSURANCE, Alliance Assurance Connrany, BARTHOLOMEW LANE, LONDON;: ui C. : ESTABLISHED 1824. CAPITAL, £5,000 1004: VVUPYATO} DIRECTORS. i feusmAé 2 [sioT Tur Rieut Hon. Lorp dinners ‘Giatonenc JAMES ALEXANDER, Esq. «° RicHARD Hoare, Esq: CHARLES GEORGE BARNETT, Esq. FRANCIS ALFRED Lucas, Esq. CHARLES EDWARD BARNETT, Hsq. EDWARD HARBORD LUSHINGTON, Esq. Hon. KreneLtM P. BouvERIieE. . Hues Coin Smita, Esq. FRANCIS WILLIAM Buxton, Esq. Ricut Hon, Lorp STALBRIDGE. LorD EDWARD CAVENDISH, M.P. © | ~ Sir CHARLES RIVERS WILson, K.C,M.G.,. JAMES: FLETCHER, Esq. O.B. pt - pSABOLM ik, CYRIL FLOWER, Esq., M.P. ROBERT LEWIS, Chief Secretary. LIFE DEPARTMENT. In the ‘selection of an_office in which to effect Life Assurances, the important points for | consideration are :— I, SECURITY. II. THe Rates oF PREMIUM CHARGED. - Il. THE CoNDITIONS OF ASSURANCE. IV. THE PROFITS TO THE ASSURED, UNDER PARTICIPATING PouiciEs. It is claimed by the ‘‘ ALLIANCE” that its large Capital, the amount of its Reserves, and the character‘of its Investments, atford Security of a very high order. The Rates of Premium will be found tnoderate, and the Conditions of Assuramce most favourable to the Assured. The Reversionary Bonuses resulting from the distribution of Profits ascertained at the close of the year 1883, allotted to Policies of Five years standing, range from about— £1: 128. per cent per annum on the Sum Assured under: Policies effected at age 20 to™ £3:16s. per cent per annum on the Sum Assured under Policies effected at age 60. FIRE DEPARTMENT. FIRE gimp ARE GRANTED ON THE USUAL TERMS, _ The Company cia Dee Offices at St. James’s Street, S.W., Chancery Lane and Great George Street, 8. W., and at Edinburgh, Glasgow, Dublin, Liver pool, Manchester,- Sheffield, Birmingham, Ipswich, Bury St. Edmunds, Newcastle- on-Tyne, Wrexham: and Bristol. ze Life and Fire Pr oposal Forms, detailed Prospectuses, and Statements of Accounts, may be had on application-to the Head Office of the Company, or to any of the Branch Offices. . The Directors are. open to entertain applications for Agencies from parties who are: in a position to introduce business of a high class. INSURANCE—MISCELLANEOUS. 119 Laneashire Insurance Company, MANCHESTER. . HEAD OFFICE -FOR-SCOTLAND: 133 WEST GEORGE STREET, GLASGOW. SCOTTISH BOARD: Chairman—Cou. MATHESON, C°B., Glasgow. ALEX, FRASER, Esq., Provost| ALEx. Crum, Esq., Thornlie- spt Krpston, Esq., Glas- of Inverness. bank. Dav. BANNERMAN, Esq., Glasg.| ANDREW DOUGALL, Fsq.; In- Te "Hohe James Kina, of Huan Brown, Esq.; Glasgow. verness, | . Levernholm,. Lord. Provost D. 8. CARGILL, Esq., Glasgow | WM. Forses, Esq., of Medwyn. |. of Glasgow. and Ceylon. James Keypen Jun. Bad oso Be ALEXANDER Ross, Esq., Inver- HENRY Cowan, Esq., Hillhead. Glasgow. ness, Resident Secretary, CHARLES STEWART. Edinburgh Office: 12 YORK BUILDINGS, QUEEN STREET. Resident Secretary, FREDERIC J, HALLOWS, Inverness Office: ACADEMY STREET. _ Resident Secretary, OC. C. BALLINGALL, - - un CaPrran — THREE MILLIONS STERLING. a Annual Income upwards of £800,000. mk In Imperial Folio, Half Moroceo, price 63s. BLACK’S | GENERAL ATLAS OF THE WORLD. A Series of 56 Maps, Geographical gett and Index of 68,000 Names. . In Imperial 8yo, ‘Half Morocco, price 36s, BARTHOLOMEW’S GAZETTEER OF THE BRITISH ISLES. TOPOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL. “ Containing descriptions of Sixty Thousand plies, Illustrated with 29 specially prepared Maps. EDINBURGH: ADAM & CHARLES BLACK. 12 MISCELLANEOUS, cox & YEMAN, BILLIARD TABLE MAKERS, 184 BROMPTON ROAD, LONDON, 8.W. HIGHEST AWARD INTERNATIONAL INVENTIONS EXHIBITION 1885, MEDAL, EDINBURGH EXHIBITION. CONTRACTORS pL, HM. War Otice WEES and avmivalty, aw = | : . . BY APPOINTMENT TO H.R.H. THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH, K.G., March 1886. PATRONISED BY H.M. THE KING. OF SIA M, H.M. THE KING OF SAXONY, AND ALL THE CHAMPION PLAYERS FOR 29 YEARS. TABLES AND LAMPS ‘Made ee for India and Extreme Climates. “REGIMENTS AND MESSES SUPPLIED. WORKMANSHIP AND BEST GOODS GUARANTEED, SOLE MAKERS TO JOHN ROBERTS, JUNIOR, CHAMPION OF THE WORLD. orn stele 00 er - F< uAXS anon Havin meiey.* 3 v= SSS Te, SS. re eee me ee ae pes 4 xt ug an? aH bine oe no sige ee = Pe a Te ae rk ee ~ > ck Se 5 a + . ry F at a is - eA Lae: tz ¥ \ ae ; wy * 4) Pon ge i a Oe tm tea See eae vy HBL: ice ace? We mA 4 Sie 4