ae tA Sma) 
 
The person charging this material is re- 
 sponsible for its return on or before the 
 Latest Date stamped below. 
 
 Theft, mutilation, and underlining of books 
 are reasons for disciplinary action and may 
 result in dismissal from the University. 
 
 University of Illinois Library 
 
 L161— 0.1096 
 
THE RHINE. 
 
MONEY-TABLE. 
 
 English and French gold, as well as French and Belgian silver, is current 
 in the entire Rhineland. 
 
 The pound sterl. or sovereign is worth in the larger commercial towns 
 6 thalers, 20 silbergroschen = 11 florins, 40 kreuzers = 25 francs. — But in 
 small towns the same exchange cannot be expected, as there are not the 
 same opportunities for reselling foreign coin and bills as in larger towns. 
 
 Prussian paper-money, exclusively issued by the government (notes of 
 1, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100 and 500 thalers), is of the same value as gold or silver, 
 and is received with equal favour in Prussia and in the surrounding German 
 states. 
 
 Prussian silver-money is current throughout Germany, the Austrian 
 dominions excepted. 
 
 South Ger- 
 man money. 
 
 French 
 money. 
 
 | Prussian money. 
 
 English money. 
 
 Fr. 3. | Thr. | Sgr. : Fil. 
 25 11 
 21 
 
 for’) 
 a 
 (<3) 
 
 wmewaown @ & 
 
 mee bD dD Oo RP Or or or 
 
 | 
 Kee 
 
 Ber OP ow 
 
 BPrRrEnmMONDNwMwWaA 
 
 | 
 | 
 
 | 
 
 | 
 
2Purttes 4. ttzedn 
 
 A 
 
 HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 
 
 ON 
 
 THE RHINE, 
 FROM HOLLAND TO SWITZERLAND. 
 
 BY 
 
 K. BAEDEKER. 
 
 With 15 Maps and 18 Plans of towns, 
 
 SECOND EDITION, REVISED AND AUGMENTED, 
 
 COBLENZ: 
 KARL BAEDEKER. 
 1864. 
 LONDON: EDINBURGH: 
 
 WILLIAMS & NORGATE. WILLIAMS & NORGATE. 
 
 14 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden. 20 South Frederick Street. 
 
 The right of Transtation is reserved. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The principal object of the following volume is to 
 render the traveller as independent as possible of land- 
 lords, coachmen and guides, and thus enable him the 
 ‘more thoroughly to enjoy and appreciate the objects of 
 interest he meets with on his tour. 
 | The entire contents of the book have been compiled 
 from the personal experience of the editor, and the 
 country described has within the last few years been 
 repeatedly visited by him solely with the view of 
 gathering fresh information. 
 
 The Maps and Plans, the result of much care and 
 research, will be of essential service to the traveller, 
 and enable him at a glance to select the best routes &c. 
 
 Railway, Steamboat and diligence time-tables, as 
 well as information respecting telegraphic communication, 
 are contained in “Hendschel’s Telegraph” (10 Sgr.), 
 published at Frankfurt on the Main, and_ issued 
 monthly during the summer season. Implicit reliance, 
 however, cannot be placed on such publications, notwith- 
 ‘standing the care with which they are compiled, and 
 the traveller is recommended to obtain the necessary 
 information from the local time-tables as he proceeds 
 on his journey. 
 
 , Careful attention has been devoted to the subject 
 of Hotels, on which so much of the tourist’s comfort 
 
 “— 
 Vos 
 
VI PREFACE, | 
 
 depends. In addition to the more splendid establish-| 
 ments, the names of houses of less pretension have been | 
 introduced, to meet the convenience of a large portion| 
 of the travelling public. Those hotels which the editor 
 and his friends have found particularly comfortable and 
 moderate are indicated by asterisks (*), which must 
 however be received with caution. LExactitude is im-| 
 possible where changes of management are frequent and 
 where the treatment the traveller meets with is very often 
 contingent upon circumstances which can be neither 
 altogether controlled nor foreseen. 
 
 The fairness of the charges in the different hotels 
 enumerated has been invariably tested by the personal 
 experience of the editor, or from an inspection of 
 numberless bills with which he has been furnished from 
 numerous quarters; but it is hardly necessary to remark 
 that the constant fluctuations in the price of provisions 
 cannot fail to influence Hotel charges generally. Carriage 
 fares and fees to guides are also liable to similar 
 variations; but these items of expenditure, if given 
 approximately, will prove of service to the tourist, in 
 enabling him to form a fair estimate of the demands 
 which can justly be made upon him. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 I. Skeleton Tour. 
 ITs Steamboat' Navigation ./ « ... ., Ree Doe 
 RIT.: Hotels.and* fees: ....- « o> «digi. ees 
 ITV. Remarks on the Geology of the Rhine . 
 Vien Wirke® Siar caries pct: taco ee 
 Fall ofithet Rhine. 2h, e. «4° eee 
 Average breadthsof therRhine « wwarleauste es. S 
 Depthfofithe Rhine se. RAT a eee IO 8 
 length yofetier Rhines ys: om st or lses 
 Abbrevahons 5 5 SRR, TAs et, SO Le OE 
 Route 
 1. From Brussels to Aix-la-Chapelle . ..... . 
 2, Aix-la-Chapelle. . , 
 3. From Aix-la-Chapelle to Diisseldorf, Crefeld and Ruhrort 
 4. From Aix-la-Chapelle to Cologne . ... . 
 o.erom ‘hotterdam to Diisseldorf:.- .- Sfees0nies! S? Pues 
 Ts ON doer a ee ere ee 
 7. From Disseldorf to Dortmund by Elberfeld . . . . . 
 $8. From Dortmund to Diisseldorf by Oberhausen . . . . 
 He FYOM-*DuUssciaorr tosColoones * .. St ial Wet estas 
 MEO, <COldgiibs O59 eee Reale ty), oaguiyg get 0 pk 
 11. Fram Cologne to Crefeld and Cleve . ....... . 
 12, From Cologne to Frankfurt by Giessen. . . ..., 
 13. The Rhine from Cologne to Bonn. ...... 
 MINS al oe? 9 Aue he he wit oe 
 15. The Rhine from Bonn to Remagen, . 
 16. The Seven Mountains (Siebengebirge) . ... 
 Semince Valley-ofithe Abt oe cs °o% ce es ot a eS 
 18. The Rhine from Kemagen to Coblenz. 
 19, Brohithal, Laacher See, Lava quarries of Niedermendig 
 
 PO GIOTZ.| + iO ach chl vat sh elt le tie. eres mea COO Oe SPM 
 
. From Strasburg to Mayence. 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Route 
 21. Ehrenbreittstenn i.) 5. vo 4 amet > eat eee oer eet 
 22. From Coblenz to Wetzlar. Ems and the Valley of the Lahn . . 
 
 . From Coblenz to Wiesbaden. Railway journey. . . »« + « « « 
 . The Rhihejfrom Coblenz to°St.‘\Goar 7. \d ibis cs es alee aie 
 
 » Lhe Rhine trom St. Goar to Bingen sms. Geile ite ect ee eet 
 
 Bingen: cobeetee  8 c Sone! Tiga ila) oo aac 
 
 s Lhe wNrederwald oo. ycce< 3 Gi Gree ee 2 er ne ae ee 
 
 . From: Bingen’ to#Saarbricken” 234) ) 0) eae ee ea 
 
 Kreuznach: and sits environs); 20s uence coe ee ele ee er ee 
 
 From Saarbrucken to Treves and Luxembourg. . . » »... 
 
 LTO VES s.r Wate es isp co's ci We aiale aa eae ean 
 
 2. he Moselle-from Zreves to 'Coblenz. . .. .. so degaueee eee ee 
 eine Volcanic Wifel' 22 jis... aS So, gute hs aan aeemel aaa eaeeeeS aare 
 . The Rhine from Bingen to Mayence. The Rheingau. . .. . . 
 UMAYeNCE.. ck itis cee Ee i 
 
 . From Mayence to Cologne. Railway journey ..... . 
 
 e WACSDAGCM ug 8 0 in ose ew ena 
 . Schwalbach and Schlangenbad .. «56: Bagh gen of) leeeee toe G 
 rank fart ea ce, oy ee ge 
 
 . From Frankfurt to Mayence and Wiesbaden. Taunus Railway. 
 
 Excursion to. the Taunus). |< “ai. «asain eae eee 
 
 - MromeFrankfurt to Heidelberg... . 2.) \jquleeaatet ee nee oe ee 
 Qc ae Omenwald 3. 6. +, a, 2 wie) a, nee ee 
 » Heidelberg .. .. 2. s . «{:la'ppauhiek oot ath canpieieeceln aan ee 
 
 . Mannheim and Schwetzingen . .... . 
 
 The Bavyarian-Rhenish Palatinate. Donnersberg and Haardt . 
 
 . From Mannheim to Saarbriicken. Ludwigshafen-Bexbach and Prussian 
 
 Saarbrucken: line. 0: <<. «geste: Pecunia 
 
 | AN Ao) S21 EERE TAS ST 
 . Sf) i Ce i se ee 
 marom Heidelberg to Carlsruhe a | <2.) asc seieeneee gs arenas ten 
 suOarlsruhe os. ss oe lo go yo , Se aes ee 
 
 ~ Prom Carisruhe to, Baden . .  /eeg!¢velehetec eee eee 
 
 Baden#and-its Environs, .. .. «64 0) Se 
 
 .. From Baden to Strasburg |. ~ s/ailol) ih oem ee Gee Ga nete es 
 
 » Strasburg cabwdieiiwiiirel Ae be beiiapeten  fosuel are eeeatend alee memes 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Route Pa: 
 
 age 
 Pe rOnr Witaevarierd ale. ges. Eee. 6 6 ek we al Oe Fie B96 
 57. The Vosges. Northern part. From Strasburg to Saarburg . . 229 
 
 Meeeetle = VOSten em OUGNerl Vath paar meric ste a cs) «te es eee mel 
 | 59. From Baden (or Strasburg) to Freiburg ........ 2 
 aeo-: Freiburg’and ita Havirens: . . . 3. |. (dea Btteisiecuecs 238 
 ier. Prom Preibufy tot Bale? 0208 22880 ea oo Pe Oe 
 62. Badenweiler and its Environs. Biirgeln, Blauen, Belchen, Miinster- 
 OD) Be eee oes, We. a oul a 5 ce es ct + ee ea ot 
 63, The Black Forest (Baden portion) .. .. soe fe 2 eww we 249 
 a. Murgthal, Hornisgrinde, Mummelsee. From Baden to Gernsbach 
 SOU ALICIMEMICENT 5 6 te 16 sts sy ne MMs. oe seh 250) 
 
 b, Allerheiligen, Waterfalls of Bittenstein, Kniebisbider, Water- 
 fallsiof Legbtre, Winzigthalres 4 «; sn ti et Wes yay. eh B58 
 c. Holienthal, Feldberg, Wiesenthal, Wehrathal, Albthal. . . . 258 
 Bae EGMMVVAIUSIILUNLOSTSALOS .— «wis, Stot se his eg Be ay he wee ie ee ee POOS 
 ta AN ete a oa ne at Aol Nog ey Sole ie ate ae 
 
 Index. 
 
Maps. 
 
 1. General Map, after the index. 
 2. The Rhine from Bonn.to Diisseldorf and from Disseldorf 
 
 to Emmerich, ‘the Westphalian lines and the Cologne~ 
 Disseldorf, Aix-la-Chapelle line; Routes 3, 5—14 and 38, 
 between pp. 10 and 11. 
 
 - The Rhine from Coblenz to Bonn, Laacher See, the Valleys 
 of the Brohl {land the Ahr; Routes 15-20 and 38, between pp. 50 
 and 51. 
 
 4, The Seven Mountains; Route 16, between pp. 54 and 55. | 
 
 - The Rhine from Bingen to Coblenz, Rhine-Nahe and, 
 Rhine-Lahn lines; Routes 20—29 and 38, between pp. 90 and 91. 
 
 3. The Niederwald; Routes 26 and 27, between pp, 106 and 107. 
 
 . The Eifel; Route 33, between pp. 128 and 129. 
 
 - The Rheingau; Routes 23 and 34—38, between pp. 134 and 135. 
 
 . The Taunus Mountains; Routes 37, 39 and 40, between pp. 168 
 
 and 169. | 
 
 . The Odenwald, Routes 41—43, between pp. 176 and 177. | 
 
 - The Rhenish Palatinate, northern part; Routes 28 and 29, 45—47| 
 
 and 55, between pp. 188 and 189. | 
 
 - The Rhenish Palatinate, southern part (Haardt); Routes 45) 
 and 46, between pp. 192 and 193. | 
 
 . The Vosges Mountains, southern part; Routes 57 and 58, between 
 
 pp. 232 and 233. 
 
 . The Black Forest, northern part (environs of Baden), Routes 
 
 51—56, 63 a. and b., between pp. 210 and 211. 
 
 . The Black Forest, southern part; Routes 56, 59—63 c., 64 and 65, 
 
 between pp. 246 and 247. 
 
I. Skeleton Tour. 
 
 The following plan for a 6 weeks’ tour of the Rhine will 
 ve found to be the most convenient and expeditious; it begins 
 vith Frankfurt and ends with Dortmund: — 
 
 Days. 
 Frankfurt (hn 39) sists sou « if 
 On foot: Taunus (Kénigstein, Soden, Homburg, R. 40) 1 
 Darmstadt (R. 41)... 3 tf, 
 On foot: Melbocus and Odenwald BR 41 and | 42) ed 
 Heidelberg and environs (R. ma aude eral 
 Carlsruhe (R. 50). . . ate Mees wpe, At tS tai LA 
 Baden and environs (R. 82). ois Soe Rail 4 he silanes 
 
 On foot: The Black Forest, Murgthal, " Allerheiligen, 
 Renchthal, Kniebisbader, Tryberg falls, Kinzigthal 
 
 (R. 63 a. and bajen i ete ORG hae ee ae 
 From Offenburg to Freiburg (R. 59) Ml Te es 2 
 On foot: Héllenthal, vane We W iesenthal, Wehrathal 
 
 PR avairas rs vat “a4 ay Sea E wy 
 Bale (R. 65)... cel Pa8. aaah y, 
 
 | On foot: Badenweiler and environs (R. 62) Ue: Ph go anes 
 | From Freiburg to Breisach (R. 60), Colmar and St. 
 
 Hippolyte (R. Boia % airtel (io. eee 
 On foot: The Vosges (RR. 57 and 58) . Ra 
 Strasburg (R. 54)... 1 olga age 
 To Saarburg and back by railway (R. 57). oa 
 From Strasburg to Landau (R.55). . . a 
 On foot: Haardt Mountains, Madenburg, Trifels, “Max- 
 
 burg, Neustadt (R.45) .. . ai. (es oad 
 From Neustadt to Speyer (R.R. 46 and 48) its, Sosa 
 
 Worms (R. 47), Mayence (R. 35), Wiesbaden (R. 37), iat 
 Qn foot: The Rheingau from Eltville to Ridesheim 
 (R. 34) and Bingen. Rochus-Chapel and Scharlach- 
 
 Rept: (eG cs tesy gases ie to analy ol adarbare 02) 
 Excursion to Kreuznach, Minster am Stein, Oberstein 
 
 and back to Bingen (RR. A8., anduZD yee a 97 4. si 1 
 From Bingen by steamboat to Bacharach, on foot to 
 
 Caub, Oboetiecer St. Goar and environs (R. 25). . . 1 
 
 By steamboat to Stolzenfels, Coblenz and Ehrenbreitstein 
 (B.R.20, Dinando@d) iy 2: bata a 
 
XI SKELETON TOUR. 
 
 Ems and Nassau (R. 22) by railway ey 
 By Moselle-steamboat to A/f, on foot through the vol- 
 canic Lifel (R.R. 32 and 38). 3 
 Treves and environs (R. 31). 1 
 By steamboat from Treves to Coblenz (R. 32) : 1 
 By steamboat to Andernach (R. 18), on foot to Nieder- 
 mendig, the Laacher See, the Brohlthal (R. 19). From 
 ee by steamboat to Remayen, <Apollinarisberg 
 SEED anh: Bis Me er nee, ere eee ew 
 i Wi alley of the Ahr to Altenabr sa 17) (on foot 
 2 days) by carriage . 1 
 By steamboat to Kénigswinter (R. “1B. on foot through 
 the Seven Mountains (R. 16)... .. So eee ik 
 Bonn; and Cologne (RR. 10and: 14). 02) aoe toot 42 
 By Railway to Atx-la-Chapelle (R.R. 2 and 4), in the 
 evening by Railway to f° pre Shee RE set iad © | 
 Diisseldorf and Elberjeld (RR 6 andulljage: he 1 
 On foot from Elberfeld to Hagen (Wupper bioene Ennep 
 road) Railway to Dortmund (Re7) . . 1 
 
 From Dortmund by railway (R.R. 8 and 9) in 4 hrs: 
 back to Cologne. 
 
 The rapidity of railway communication is taken into account} 
 in these calculations. ‘The pedestrian excursions are all within 
 the reach of any tolerable walker. 
 
 It may strike some that six weeks is an unreasonable period 
 to devote to a journey which, with the modern accessories to 
 speed, it is possible to perform in a single day, but it need 
 hardly be stated that a very imperfect acquaintance with the 
 beauties of Rhenish scenery is to be obtained by those whose 
 impressions are formed from the window of a railway carriage, 
 or even from the deck of a steamer. Such cursory glances 
 may satisfy those who are making the Rhine simply the high- 
 way to the more gigantic, but scarcely more impressive and 
 instructive scenery of Switzerland; it is hoped, however, this 
 volume may find favour with those who desire an intimate 
 acquaintance with this beautiful country and its countless and 
 unrivalled attractions, too many of which have been unexplored, 
 and must ever remain sealed to those who will not be tempted 
 to diverge from the oft-trod track. Whilst the editor of this 
 work hopes to be the means of opening fresh sources of pleasure 
 and instruction to the traveller, each individual, being the best 
 judge of his own resources, must avail himself of the time, 
 means, strength and inclination he has at his own disposal. | 
 
 The railways by which in different directions the Rhine-| 
 land is intersected, and the numerous steamboats which navigate} 
 its rivers, afford so many opportunities for travelling, that the} 
 
SKELETON TOUR. Xr 
 
 enterprising tourist need ever pass an unprofitable day. Much 
 discernment is of course necessary to determine where the 
 ‘public conveyances should be employed and where abandoned, 
 las in many instances the best objects and points of observation 
 lare only accessible to the pedestrian or by private conveyance. 
 Much valuable information on these points will, it is hoped, 
 be afforded in this work. Those who are in delicate health, or 
 would desire to escape from the bustle of high roads and public 
 |conveyances, are recommended to the following places, which 
 are particularly well adapted for repose after the fatigue and 
 excitement of travelling: Schloss Birgeln (p. 247), especially 
 for single gentlemen; Freiburg (p. 238); Achern (p. 217), 
 Oppenau, Allerheiligen (p. 216), the latter for gentlemen; 
 |Carlsruhe (p. 206), Weinheim (p. 174), Zwingenberg (p. 172); 
 Neustadt in the Haardt (p. 196); the baths of Cronthal in 
 the Taunus (p. 170); Niederwalluj’ (p. 187) and Geisenheim 
 (p. 184) in the Rheingau; Lorch (p. 174), Oberwesel (p. 99), 
 St. Goarshausen (p. 97), Camp (p. 95), the latter for gentlemen, 
 on the Middle-Rhine; Honnef (p. 56), at the foot of the 
 Seven Monntains. 
 
 The traveller need hardly be reminded that a superfluity 
 of luggage is a sad hindrance to the complete success of a 
 tour. It is a source of expense, anxiety and trouble, and he 
 who would spare his pocket many an inroad, and his temper 
 many a trial, will provide himself with as small a quantity 
 as possible of those articles which are always more or less 
 the “impedimenta” to travelling. For a tour of two or three 
 weeks the editor’s entire equipment consists of an umbrella 
 sufficiently stout to serve the purpose of a walking stick, a 
 Mackintosh, and a small travelling bag slung over the shoulder, 
 containing a couple of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted stockings, 
 slippers, and the necessary articles of the toilette. Opportunities 
 for having linen washed and shoes mended (always to be 
 accomplished in a single night) occur constantly during the 
 traveller’s progress, rendering a large supply of clothing totally 
 unnecessary. More extended tours entail of course the necessity 
 of a somewhat longer catalogue of requisites, but under all 
 circumstances the tourist is strongly recommended to avoid 
 being encumbered with more than he can conveniently carry 
 himself. The comfort of being able to quit a steamboat or 
 railway station without detention need only be experienced to 
 be appreciated. Travellers may often advantageously and at 
 ja trifling expense send on their luggage through the agency 
 of the post. 
 
II. Steamboat Navigation. 
 
 The Rhine is navigated by more than 100 steamboats, from | 
 the local vessels of fifteen or twenty horse power to the 
 powerful tug-steamers of upwards of four hundred. During 
 the last few years the average number of travellers availing 
 themselves of this mode of transit has been upwards of one | 
 million annually. Since the completion of the Rhenish rail- 
 way a considerable saving of time is effected by only employing 
 the steamers on those portions of the river which are re- 
 markable for the striking beauty of the scenery upon its banks. 
 The following vessels of the united (since 1853) Cologne and | 
 Dusseldorf Company are recommended for their speed: ‘‘Hohen- 
 zoller,” ‘“‘Merkens,” “Loreley,” “Prinz von Preussen,” “Prinzessin 
 von Preussen.” Those to be avoided as ‘‘slow coaches” are the 
 ‘“Hlisabeth,” “Konigin,” “Mannheim,” ‘Victoria” and ‘‘Ger- 
 mania.” These boats ply during the summer months to the | 
 number of six or seven a day. The vessels of the Nether- 
 lands Company are too uncertain to be depended upon for short 
 distances, and are principally employed for the transmission | 
 of merchandise. 
 
 Return ticket 
 
 Single ticket. 
 
 Tariff of Fares. (valid for 1 year). 
 Cabin. ||Steerage.| Cabin. ||Steerage. 
 From Mannheim to Thir.| Sgr. ||\Thir.| Sor. \Whir.| Sgr- || Thir.| Sgr. 
 Worms . — 6 || — 4] — 9.t) —= 6 
 Mainz — | 18 | — | 12 7 — | 244) — | 15 
 Bingen . — | 27))— | 18} 1] 5} — } 23 
 Coblenz. SiLvenks Diag ule came 1 | 24 1 6 2 9 £et5 
 OG ey city vas Suan’ gh umeho eta ae 3/—] 2}|— |] 8} 24} 2 | 15 
 asseld or bes Wate) em, AYP ake 3 ae 2 ED 4 | 10 2 20 
 Rotterdam . , ; 6 | — | 4 ]-10 AAS 5 | — 
 f Mainz ) | 
 From < or to 
 | Biebrich J | 
 Bingen. . <i keer —_ 9 |) — 6} — | 12] — 8 
 St. Goar — | 23 |} — |} 15 1} —}]—/}19 
 Boppard — | 27 || — | 18 1 5 || — | 23 
 Coblenz. 1 6 |) — | 24 Lis} 1|— 
 Cologne... . 2/12) 1/18] 3);—] 2) — 
 Disseldorf. Ear pe PR chad 2 | 26 ta 27 a. | 10 Dae AD 
 APOSTOLOS SM he Re heli 8) eerste 5A ie 64 3.].18 6 | 24 4 8 
 From Bingen to 1 
 St; Goats 2 ania. —/|14)} — 9}—} 18 12 
 Boppard — |} 18 |} — | 12 | — 
 Coblenz . — | 27 || — | 18 ef 
 Cologne. 2 3 tok? 2 
 Disseldorf. Aeaiee cee aaa 2/17 1 | 21 3 
 Rotterdam’, .°. . Se ee st ee Dant. ae te tie mene 
 
| STEAMBOAT NAVIGATION r XV 
 | pio nghens i>. nine a aaa RA FR RR IB TE 
 
 | Single ticket. Return ticket 
 . ralid for 1 ar). 
 Tariff of Fares. | walks jon dea 
 | Cabin. ||Steerage.} Cabin. |Steerage. 
 From Coblenz to Thir.| Sgr. : [Tae aor 
 imouwicda:s vires. seems wo. epi py dll oceen, 
 Remagen — 4 127 — | 24) — | 15 
 |Bonn. arp araie. .4 —/is} 1/5] —| 93 
 (Ogee ame, | Sat Tabet k | — 
 \Diisseldorf. UN Reis Bs liar be oe ak eae ¢ 
 Rotterdam . 3a 2 247 5) 9 31-15 
 Bamnpardey oe om —]}| 5]—]| 12 | — (aS 
 St. Goar ae a (ee eed ed 
 Bingen . iP ines Ean as 1). Soya Se 
 Wainz oon) sa gelee yd tee —}20] 1 15 | — 
 mannheim . 7 ss. noe.  aeditpa e227 ae eee 
 From Bonn to \ eae 
 
 mlogne. iNT? Uo8d ta |: sebo’ Wy sip 1 12 if 1g 
 Basseld orf, of lcorrsomes ay olen piped 23 || — | 15 1| — | 19 
 Rotterdam. th. Bh, Oh 2p Chimes | 2] 23 
 R0landseck Fat) ae ® = eal a ine eI et 
 Penagens - caoidie”). ist sriatine —| 8] — 5/—1!12]—| 8 
 CO TI Er ea | =| 23] | 15] 1] 51 —] 93 
 3s) lalate ce ee ee HOLY oad Sel 2) Zn edie nag 
 fannheim . 2/ 8] 1/15] 3} 12 | 2] 8 
 
 | ae 
 
 From Cologne to ge Poe bee a 
 Jiisseldorf. j po 14 | Ft —)| ey | 12 
 | EE ee Oe oe ce A 3/— |] 2 |} |] 3) 24 27 15 
 Pinees sts. ounwoiul ttiw, | — | 8 }k— a] —] 12] — 8 
 WIANGROCK <n cee be co — 1,12) — |. 8) —.| 18.}) — | 12 
 PeM@vodire es. ot tes — | 15] — |} 10] — | 24 } Sf 
 toblenz. 1 | BOON LAD LSA HL eee 
 fainz 2} —} 1/10) 3) — | oh 
 fannheim . 2,|.15 |} 1 | 20 3 | 24], 2 | 15 
 
 From Diisseldorf to 
 iptterdamy se kt. ees ele 2;17} 1) 21) 3] 6 2| 4 
 toblenz. Ay Loo 22 i 128 Po kas i ft 12 
 ice aes ee 24 12 1°} 18 one 2/12 
 tne SY OR, EO a BTU wl gedb: ¢ LOM eats O97 
 
 | i 
 
 From Rotterdam to H 
 ‘ologne. 4:| 15 11901 3 | 2411 2 15 
 fannheim . 5} — 3] 10 7115] 5) — 
 
 The first-class, or state cabin, situated in the stern of the 
 essel and connected by folding doors with the public cabin, 
 ‘ of limited dimensions and rarely occupied except by invalids 
 nd persons of the highest distinction. It may be engaged 
 br a sum equal to sixteen times the cabin-fare. The second- 
 lass cabin is frequented by the ordinary travelling community, 
 nd the passengers are of course free to any part of the deck. 
 hird-class, or steerage passengers, are limited to the fore part 
 |Barpexer’s Rhine. “4 
 
XVI STEAMBOAT NAVIGATION. 
 
 of the vessel as far as the funnel. The portion of the deck 
 
 appropriated to cabin passengers is protected from the sun | 
 
 by an awning. | 
 
 2 children under 12 years of age are charged one fare. 
 
 1 child in the cabin pays steerage fare. | 
 
 1 adult with a child in the steerage pays cabin-fare; children 
 in arms are free. 
 
 Tickets must if possible be taken before embarking. 
 Passengers failing to do this should obtain them from the 
 conductor immediately on going on board, otherwise they are 
 liable to be called upon to pay the fare from the steamer’s 
 first point of departure, a custom not unknown on English 
 railroads. 
 
 Each passenger is allowed 100 pounds of luggage free, for 
 which he must either be responsible himself, or have its safe | 
 custody ensured on board, the charges for which are as follows: 
 
 From Mannheim to Cologne: 3 Sgr. for each trunk, 
 
 2 ,, for a travelling bag, 
 
 1. y,... SOF ae NOx | 
 from shorter distances, as from Mannheim to Coblenz, or from | 
 Coblenz to Cologne, half the above charges are made. ‘This | 
 precaution saves much trouble and prevents occasional loss. | 
 Where articles are missing the following compensation is given: 
 for a trunk 30 Thir., for a travelling bag 10 Thlr., for a hat 
 box 5 Thlr. 
 
 Single travellers unencumbered with luggage are recom- 
 mended not to take their tickets till the steamer is in sight, 
 as in case of detention the alternative of the railroad is open 
 to them. 
 
 Passengers provided with tickets of not less than 20 Sgr. 
 in value are at liberty to break their journey, provided they | 
 signify their intention to the conductor before he collects the | 
 tickets. Should the journey be resumed at a station nearer | 
 the traveller’s destination than that at which he disembarked, ; 
 the ticket ceases to be valid for the intervening stations. 
 
 Towards the end of summer or the beginning of autumn 
 Rhine fogs begin to prevail, in consequence of which the 
 punctuality of the steamers it not to be relied on, and travellers 
 are frequently subjected to a very vexatious detention. Should 
 the steamer be more than three hours behind the time specified 
 in the time-tables, the fare may be reclaimed. 
 
 Refreshments are provided on board the steamers in the| 
 style of the hotels and at similar charges. Although it is a 
 rule of the Company that a tariff of charges shall be con-| 
 spicuously exhibited, it is not always to be seen, and the 
 following items are therefore given: 
 
HOTELS. 
 
 Coffee with bread and butter 8 
 Table @héte at 1 o’clock. . we irae ee 
 — eee iatervhourm .ei: . 9) 26.) Thr, SS 
 d 6 
 
 2 
 
 , bottle of good table wine 
 Cup of coffee Bae: Pelee ee thee Sth yh, 
 Dinners “a la carte” are not recommended. 
 Travellers starting at an early hour in the morning will 
 find the breakfast furnished on board more enjoyable than a 
 hurried meal before leaving the hotel. Passengers are strongly 
 recommended to pay for what they order “on delivery.” If 
 left to his own discretion, the waiter will defer tendering 
 his account until the point of the traveller’s disembarkation 
 is in sight, when the hurry and bustle of the moment too 
 readily favour imposition. 
 Travellers should be on their guard against the importunities 
 of waiters who offer spurious books, maps &c. for sale at 
 exorbitant prices. 
 
 2) 
 
 III. Hotels &c. 
 
 It is found that little variation occurs in the accommodation 
 and charges of first-class hotels in the principal towns and 
 watering-places throughout the whole of Germany, but it not 
 anfrequently happens that in old-fashioned hotels of unassuming 
 2xterior, as much real comfort combined with more moderate 
 tharges is found as in the modern establishments, where 
 nagnificence of decoration sometimes usurps the place of com- 
 ort. The editor has therefore endeavoured to the best of his 
 sbility to direct the attention of the discerning traveller to 
 1ouses of this description, premising at the same time that 
 ew hotels are deserving of unqualified praise or blame. As 
 as been already remarked, the treatment of a guest varies 
 sreatly according to circumstances; a change of waiters some- 
 imes disorganizes the entire system of an establishment; but 
 he attention a traveller meets with depends mainly upon his 
 ‘wn demeanour. Those who travel with a superabundance of 
 uggage, who are difficult to please, who find indiscriminate 
 ault, and who impose unnecessary trouble, must not be sur- 
 rised if they find their bills swell into proportions for which 
 hey are not prepared. To such a class of travellers the 
 harges mentioned in this volume will scarcely ever apply. 
 ‘he editor here hazards a few observations on two vexed 
 uestions in connection with hotel management: the payment 
 f servants, and the highly obnoxious charge for ‘‘ bougies.” 
 § regards “service,” the editor entertains a strong conviction 
 iat the majority of travellers prefer a fixed and moderate 
 
 #*O 
 
XVII HOTELS. 
 
 charge being appended to the bill, but which shall insure them 
 against importunities for private donations. This desirable 
 practice is observed in the majority of respectable hotels; 
 where it is not, the following fees may suffice: 5 Sgr. or 
 18 kr. for the head waiter and half that sum for the porter 
 per diem. 
 
 On the subject of the charge for bougies two opinions 
 cannot exist; the cost of lights should be included in the charge 
 for apartments, a small percentage being added if necessary. 
 It constantly occurs that the merits of a really good and 
 otherwise respectable hotel are overlooked in the irritation 
 created by this paltry charge. Not only is the ordinary demand 
 of 5 Sgr. exorbitant in itself, but the candles placed in a room 
 are frequently charged for, even when not used; and although 
 upon remonstrance the demand cannot be maintained, alter- 
 cation and dissatisfaction inevitably result. If hotel-keepers 
 combined to discontinue this vexatious practice, they would 
 be conferring a boon upon their customers and essentially 
 contributing to their own respectability and interest. 
 
 Where the traveller remains for a week or longer at an hotel, | 
 it is advisable to pay, or at all events to call for, his account 
 every two or three days, by which means erroneous insertions 
 are more easily avoided. Verbal reckonings are also highly 
 objectionable. A waiter’s arithmetic is faulty, and the faults 
 are seldom found to be in favour of the traveller. A habit 
 too often prevails of presenting the bill at the last moment, 
 when mistakes or wilful impositions must be submitted to, for 
 want of time to investigate them. Those who purpose starting 
 early in the morning will do well to ask for their bills on 
 the previous evening. 
 
 The habit of putting clothes and boots outside the bed-room 
 door to be brushed is sometimes attended with inconvenience. 
 The editor was once unfortunate enough to be despoiled of a 
 great portion of his wardrobe through this imcautious act. 
 
 English travellers too often impose considerable trouble 
 by ordering things almost unknown in German usage; and if 
 ignorance of the language is combined with unacquaintance 
 with the customs, misunderstandings and disputes too often 
 ensue. They are therefore strongly recommended to acquire 
 if possible such a proficiency in the language as shall render 
 them intelligible to the servants, and above all to conform in 
 their orders and requirements to the manners and habits of 
 the country. For this purpose Baedeker’s ‘Travellers’ Manual 
 of Conversation” will prove a useful companion. 
 
 Valets de place generally charge 1 florin or 20 Ser. for 
 half a day, and 1—1!/, Thir. for an entire day. This sum: 
 
GEOLOGY, XIX 
 
 | is slightly in excess of the tariff fixed by the police, but 
 | cannot be regarded as exorbitant. 
 
 IV. Remarks on the Geology of the Rhine. 
 
 For Geologists the maps of the Rhine-province and Westphalia by von 
 Dechen (Berlin, pubd. by Schropp) are of particular value. They are ad- 
 mirably executed according to the Prussian Ordnance maps, in the proportion 
 of 1: 80,000. The following sections have been published (price 1 Thlir. each): 
 Ochirup, Tecklenburg, Liibbecke, Cleve, Coesfeld, Minster, Bielefeld, Hoixter, 
 Geldern, Wesel, Dortmund, Soest. Warburg, Crefeld, Diisseldorf, Ltiden- 
 scheid, Berleburg, Aachen, Céin, Siegen, Minden, Malmedy, Mayen, Bern- 
 castel, Trier. : 
 
 From Bale to Bingen the valley of the Rhine is lake-like 
 and filled with more recent deposits, but at the latter place 
 
 it suddenly changes its character and becomes so narrow, that 
 barely room is afforded for the high-roads and railways which 
 skirt it on either side. The river rushes impetuously between 
 almost perpendicular rocks of considerable height, intersected 
 ‘here and there by narrow gullies. Towards Coblenz. the 
 |valley gradually expands, the hills become less abrupt, and 
 ‘the rocks disappear.’ From Coblenz to Andernach a broad 
 |basin extends itself on both sides of the stream, which at 
 the lastnamed place again assumes the character of a narrow 
 ‘rocky defile. Near Bonn the river again gradually widens, 
 and the “Seven Mountains” appear, forming the grand closing 
 scene of the picturesque portion of the Rhine. This chain of 
 ‘mountains, in diminished proportions, accompanies the Rhine 
 on its right bank as far as Cologne, Disseldorf, and nearly 
 (to Duisburg; below the mouth of the Ruhr the country presents 
 a uniformly flat appearance. 
 
 Thus the Rhine valley between Bingen and Bonn intersects 
 ‘a widely extended range of high land, stretching W. as far 
 as the Schelde above Valenciennes, and E. to the Diemel 
 near Stadtberge, and consisting of upheaved and much contorted 
 strata of slatey-grauwacke and quartzose-rock, one of the oldest 
 formations in which fossils are found. Formerly geologists 
 reckoned these slate and grauwacke formations among the 
 so-called transition rocks, but since the fossiliferous strata have 
 been more accurately classified, the Rhenish slate mountains 
 are believed to hold the second place according to age among 
 the fossiliferous formations. The oldest of these is, according 
 to the eminent geologist Sir Roderic Murchison, called the 
 Silurian system, and that to which the Rhenish slate Mountains 
 belong, the Devonian system. All other fossiliferous formations 
 ire more recent. 
 
 From Bingen to the confluence of the Sieg below Bonn 
 
 ull the strata intersected by the Rhine belong to one and the 
 
 same epoch, as they contain the same organic remains. These 
 
xx GEOLOGY. 
 
 strata consist of many different kinds of clay-slate, the purest 
 modification of which is the roofing-slate. The latter is yielded 
 in great abundance by various quarries on the banks of the 
 Rhine, the most important of which are those of Caub (p. 100), 
 whence it is sent in all directions and even as far as Switzer- 
 land. The clay-slate forms transitions to the kind of sand- 
 stone called grauwacke; it is here mostly fine-grained, and, 
 in combination with a quartzose cementing matter, passes into 
 quartzose-rock, which, on account of its great hardness and 
 indestructibility, assumes the most grotesque shapes, and between 
 Bingen and St. Goar greatly enhances the beauty of the Rhine 
 valley. 
 
 The S. limit of the range of mountains intersected by the 
 Rhine is formed by the Taunus, of which the Great Feldberg 
 rises to the height of 2708 ft., and the W. limit by the Soon- 
 wald, Idurwald, and Hochwald, the highest point of which is 
 the Walderbeskopf (2518 ft.). So great a height is not attained 
 by the Westerwald, Lifel, Hohe Venn, or any of the other slate 
 mountains in the range. 
 
 In proportion to these heights are also the hills which 
 bound the valley of the Rhine; they are highest where the 
 river intersects the Taunus and the Soonwald, but decrease 
 in height farther down. 
 
 Between the periods when the Rhine first began to cut a 
 passage for itself through the above mentioned highlands, and 
 when the strata forming these highlands were deposited at 
 the bottom of what was then an ocean, a vast interval of 
 time must have elapsed. In this enormous interval all the 
 fossiliferous systems in the world must. have been formed. 
 The formation of the Rhine valley from Bingen down to the 
 sea is more recent than the deposits of the middle section of 
 the Tertiary system, called by Sir Charles Lyell Meiocene, in 
 which the clays of Vallendar and the brown coals of the 
 Westerwald, the Seven Mountains, and the neighbourhood of 
 Bruhl are found. Of an equal age with these tertiary formations 
 are the basalts of the Rhine (p. 73), which occur in the most 
 grotesque shapes on the slopes near Linz, Kaisersberg and 
 Ockenfels, on the Erpeler Ley, in the Unkeler Bruch (where 
 in 1846 a considerable landslip took place, see p. 52), at 
 Rolandseck (at the foot of which the railway has laid bare 
 some remarkably situated columns), at Petersberg, Nonnen- 
 stromberg, and many other peaks of the Seven Mountains. 
 
 The Rhine valley, ancient as it is in the ordinary sense 
 of the word, is then, geologically considered, of very recent 
 formation; and the extinct volcanoes, numerous cones of which 
 may be seen from the Rhine at Neuwied, such as the Camillen- 
 
 | 
 
WINE. XXI 
 
 berg and the peaks of the Hummerich at Plaidt and Kruft, 
 are still more recent. From the peak at Fornich a stream 
 of lava descends into the valley of the Rhine, the large per- 
 pendicular columns of which may be seen from the river (p. 187). 
 The valley had nearly attained its present depth when the 
 eruption which produced this stream of lava took place. This 
 is proved by the fact, that all the other lava streams in the 
 vicinity of the Laacher See and the Eifel have been poured 
 into valleys already formed. The pumice-stone, which extends 
 over the whole basin of Neuwied, the only place in Germany 
 where this volcanic product is found, must have been dis- 
 charged at a still more recent date than most of the lava- 
 Streams. 
 
 In the flat parts of the valley, through which the Rhine 
 flows, at first narrow, and then gradually widening, are found 
 beds of loam and rubble which the stream has deposited. 
 Similar masses are also met with on the terraces parallel 
 with the river, at a height of 400—800 ft. above the level of 
 the water. The strata could only have been deposited by 
 the agency of flowing water, and must have been deposited 
 long before the valley attained its present depth. These 
 terraces are distinguishable from the peaks formed by the 
 uncovered slate by their long horizontal ridges; they prove 
 that the Rhine valley has been gradually hollowed out by the 
 action of water, though its rugged aspect might give rise to 
 the conjecture that it had been the scene of some mighty 
 convulsion of nature. 
 
 V. Wine.! 
 
 Wine is a subject which the traveller who visits the land 
 of the grape will naturally expect to be treated of. It is far 
 too comprehensive to receive justice in a work necessarily so 
 limited a3 a guide-book, but as a highly important article of 
 commerce, as a peculiar feature of the country, the object of 
 the unwearying industry of a large population, as forming an 
 article of luxury by which the most homely taste and the 
 most refined palate may alike be gratified, and lastly as a 
 poetic theme from the days of Anacreon to the present time, 
 no work of this character could be considered complete, whicl 
 did not make some brief mention of the grape, its culture 
 and produce. 
 
 ‘ For fuller information on this subject, the traveller is referred to 
 ‘Some Words on Rhine Wines,” an interesting pamphlet which may be, 
 drocured of the principal booksellers in the Rhineland. 
 
XXII WINE. 
 
 The recent liberal modification of English duties upon) 
 foreign wines has of course given an increased impetus to the | 
 traffic in this article between Great Britain and other countries. 
 Possibly one of the earliest and least satisfactory results of | 
 this relaxation has been that an immense quantity of inferior | 
 wine of fictitious body and sweetness has been thrown upon 
 the English market, by which the public taste for the Rhenish 
 vineyards can hardly be improved; but, when that ghock is 
 recovered from, there can be little doubt that the Rhine wines | 
 of the second and third class will, from their moderate price 
 and wholesome and agreeable qualities, take their proper place 
 at the English table, from which they have been hitherto 
 partially excluded by oppressive fiscal regulations, now happily 
 removed. Smith in his ‘‘Wealth of Nations,” alluding to the 
 duties and prohibitions with which the English and French. 
 have mutually oppressed each other’s industry, observes that 
 “the spirit of hostility, which has subsisted between the two: 
 nations ever since 1667, has hitherto hindered them from 
 being moderated on either side;” but a happier era is now 
 inaugurated, ignorance and prejudice have veiled their faces 
 before modern enlightenment, and the recent commercial 
 treaty between Great Britain and France, the benefits of which 
 England has extended to other countries, forms an epoch in 
 liberal legislation, the importance of which it is impossible to 
 over-estimate. 
 
 We do not believe with the over-sanguine that the wines of 
 Germany, or any other country, will ever supplant what may 
 be termed the national beverages of Great Britain. <A bottle 
 of Hock, albeit the bouquet emitted from its graceful neck be 
 ever so fragrant, will stand a poor chance by the side of a 
 foaming “pewter,” when a thirsty mechanic is the arbitrator 
 of their respeétive merits; nor do we believe that the stal- 
 wart young athlete of England, after their exertions in the 
 ‘‘outrigger” or the cricket-field, will ever be proof against 
 the blandishments of the exhilarating and strength-supporting 
 production of the “immortal Bass;” but we decidedly anti- 
 cipate that with increased facilities there will be a growing 
 partiality for the sound and wholesome produce of the Rhenish 
 vineyards, before which many prejudices will fade away. No 
 error, has been more prevalent than that the Rhenish and 
 Moselle wines possess an injurious acidity. The celebrated’ 
 chemist Liebig on the contrary affirms, that not only is the] 
 exquisite bouquet of the Rhine wines owing to the free acid, 
 but that some of their most salutary properties arise from the 
 tartar present in them. To this he attributes the immunity] 
 enjoyed by the inhabitants of the banks of the Rhine and| 
 
WINE. XXH2 
 
 Toselle, indeed of all who use the German wines, from the 
 ric acid diathesis; and if Liebig should be considered under 
 ae influence of national partiality, Dr. Prout, and many others 
 tho have investigated the subject without prejudice or favor, 
 nay be mentioned as entertaining the same opinion. There 
 annot be a greater error than indiscriminately to denounce 
 ae acidity of wine—the kind of acid present is, however, an 
 mportant point, and tartaric acid is the best; but there is 
 nother advantage possessed by Rhenish wines, which stands out 
 1 prominent relief, namely the total absence of brandy, with 
 rhich the wines of Spain, Portugal and Sicily are invariably 
 aturated, to the utter destruction of their natural flavour and in- 
 ary to the health of-the consumer. Dr. McCulloch has forcibly 
 jointed out the evils of adding brandy to wine. ‘The pure 
 ight wines of Germany produce an agreeable exhilaration of 
 uind, very unlike the mere physical excitement, almost 
 mounting to ferocity, which results from the immoderate use 
 f the largely brandied wines so much in vogue in England; 
 ae diseases which attend spirit-drinkers, chiefly disorders of 
 he liver, are commonly met with amongst consumers of wine 
 9 which brandy has been adventitiously added, though such 
 aaladies rarely, if ever, follow even the intemperate use of 
 ure wine. It is evident that the addition of alcohol to wine 
 3 unnecessary for its preservation, for it is notorious that 
 thine wines sometimes retain their excellence for a century; 
 et in these the quantity of alcohol is seldom more than eight 
 y nine per cent, that is, in professional terms, 17—21° of 
 roof, according to Syke’s Hydrometer, used in the Test-office 
 f the London custom-honse—indeed the very property of 
 eeping is mainly attributable to the fact that the fermentation 
 s more perfect in Rhenish wines than in those of Spain and 
 *ortugal, in which latter countries fermentation is checked 
 y the addition of brandy, while with the white wines of 
 ‘rance, the same object is effected by sulphuration — pro- 
 esses by which the richness and sweetness of new wine are 
 rtificially retained. 
 
 The connoisseur is generally in the habit of giving the 
 weference to France as a wine-growing country, and calls it 
 n his enthusiasm, par excellence “the vineyard of the earth,” 
 nd doubtless the wonderful fertility of her soil, and her 
 lelicious temperature, varied though it be, give her a proud 
 wre-eminence over the rest of the globe; within her sunny 
 egions every description of wine is produced, Champagne of 
 lifferent degrees of excellence, Burgundy, as a red wine un- 
 ivalled in its perfection, the exquisite produce of the Gironde 
 nd ja Dréme, and the luscious wines of Herault. But yielding, 
 
XXIV WINE. ; 
 
 as one in candour must, the palm to France for her red wines| 
 Germans may view with just pride their noble river, perhap| 
 the most beautiful stream in the world, on the banks of whicl 
 from Mayence to Bonn, a distance of 90 M., the cultivatios} 
 of the vine may be seen in the greatest possible perfection| 
 the result of which is the production of a variety of whit) 
 wines with which no other country can compete. || 
 
 In Germany the wine-culture may almost be said to assumi| 
 the form of a passion, which pervades all classes from thif 
 prince to the peasant. The reigning potentate has his vine| 
 yards, and might almost be called a wine-merchant on aif 
 extensive scale, and his Kellermeister is an official, the in| 
 portance of whose office it would be difficult to overrate. Thi 
 peasant, too, owns his little patch of vineyard, which hi 
 cultivates with assiduous care and affection. 
 
 t must be admitted that the traveller meets with no in 
 considerable difficulty in procuring that which in his imaginatioi| 
 must be of very easy attainment, namely a bottle of good 
 wine. As in a sea-port town in England it is often difficul 
 to obtain good fish, the voracious maw of the great metropolis} 
 absorbing all that comes within its reach, so, in the very 
 garden of the vine, unanticipated obstacles to the hoped-foi 
 enjoyment present themselves. If the frugal traveller, fresh} 
 from England with the taste of Port and Sherry hardly ou} 
 of his mouth, contents himself with ordering a bottle of thd 
 ordinary table-wine, which he sees is very palatable to th¢| 
 unvitiated taste of the natives, he is likely to be little captivated 
 by his first impressions of the highly-extolled produce of thet 
 Khenish grape, and if his eye wanders over the *‘Weinkarte’| 
 in search of the rarer productions of the Rheingau—to say, 
 nothing of the bewilderment generally attendant upon such a 
 search — he will find that he can only gratify his longings| 
 at a cost equal to, if not exceeding, his whole day’s ex: 
 penditure, for a bottle of Johannisberger or Steinberger cannofh 
 be obtained at an hotel at less than four thalers a bottle. li 
 is a well-known fact that the prices charged by the inn-keepers} 
 for the table dhédte dinners with their endless variety of} 
 dishes, frequently followed by ice and fruit, are wholly un} 
 remunerative, and they are consequently compelled to put a 
 profit upon their wines of about one hundred per cent. This} 
 is a difficulty not easily overcome, and the readiest solution 
 we can offer the traveller, between the Scylla of the very} 
 cheap, and the Charybdis of the expensive wines, is to res 
 commend him, should the table-wine not prove sufficiently 
 palatable, to order a bottle of Rhine or Moselle at a thalery} 
 or a thaler and five groschen (about 2 fl.), at which price the| 
 
 | 
 ii 
 
WINE. KXV 
 
 fost fastidious taste ought to be gratified. In the wine-gardens 
 id other places of public resort, it is the custom among the 
 mtives to order simply white or red wine at six, eight, or 
 m groschen (20—36 kreuzers) a bottle, by adopting which 
 yurse a fair estimate may be made of the ordinary wine of 
 ie country. 
 y The Rheingau, a district of about 15 M. in length, pro- 
 ices the finest wines of the Rhine. Here is situated Schloss 
 phannisberg, a most fayoured spot, yielding a wine, up to a 
 scent period considered without a rival. When it is stated 
 hat these celebrated vineyards are confined to space of 
 yout 40 acres, it may be easily seen how little of this rare 
 roduct falls to the share of the ordinary public. ‘The first 
 uality can only be obtained in the most favourable seasons; 
 \e grapes are selected with the utmost care from the ripest 
 inches — not a drop of the precious juice is allowed to 
 scape — the yield, under the most auspicious circumstances, 
 therefore very limited. This may be considered as the 
 
 + 
 7 
 
 sritable nectar, which the vulgar lip seldom profanes. It 
 ras, until recently, the custom to sell these wines only in bottle, 
 ut this practice is now abandoned, and they are now sold 
 
 the cask at Schloss Johannisberg by public auction. This 
 
 blebrated wine is less remarkable for its strength than for 
 ls raciness, the delicacy of its flavour and its bouquet. The 
 ther wines of the immediate vicinity are distinguished by 
 2e name of Johannisberg-Kluus; the vineyards belonging to 
 fount Schénborn also yield a wine highly esteemed. There 
 ‘ also “Johannisberger” produced from the vineyards at the 
 ide of the Schloss and the village of that name, but these are 
 iferior to many of the other productions of the Rheingau. In 
 iis neighbourhood are the districts of Riidesheim and Geisen- 
 vim, the first of these producing a fine and generous wine, 
 he principal characteristics of which are mellowness and body. 
 lingen, on the left side of the river, is a favourable district 
 br strong wines; the hill in the rear yields Scharlachberger. 
 ‘elow Bingen, on the opposite side of the Rhine, is Assmanns- 
 ausen, the red wine of which holds a high rank in the 
 stimation of the connoisseur, and in good vintages bears no 
 hean comparison with Burgundy of the best class, being made 
 “om the same species of grape, but unfortunately, like the 
 utter, is often seriously impaired by travelling. The “Murco- 
 runn” vineyard, situated between Hattenheim and Erbach, pro- 
 ‘uces a wine of exquisite flavour and bouquet, but the wine 
 ‘hich competes most successfully with Johannisberger, and 
 adeed trenches closely upon its celebrity, is the Steinberger, 
 
XXVI WINE. 
 
 produced from an estate belonging to the Duke of Nassau 4j 
 the hill at the back of Hattenheim, and cultivated with th 
 utmost care. Many circumstances contribute to the increasin 
 reputation of the Steinberg wine. The Duke of Nassau, ji 
 is well known, spares no expense in the cultivation of hi 
 vineyards, upon which the utmost care is bestowed under th 
 personal supervision of the Duke’s Kellermeister and his suf 
 ordinates. The estate of Johannisberg is held by the head ¢ 
 the Metternich family as a fief of the crown of Austria. I 
 the hottest seasons the lightness of the soil of the Johannis 
 berg vineyard is occasionally detrimental to the perfection 4 
 the yield, the grapes being apt to ripen before they attai) 
 their proper size and maturity. This was the case in 185% 
 which, with 1858 and 1859, are the three best years ij 
 succession on record, when the Steinberger reached a marke) 
 pre-eminence over its rival, a circumstance owing principall 
 to the heavier nature of the soil. Hochheim, though situate 
 on the Main, is considered to yield a Rhenish wine of a ver 
 superior quality: 
 
 It may not be out of place’ here to name a ele | 
 house from which the above-mentioned first-class wines cai 
 be procured. To connoisseurs and purchases of Hock and Mosell 
 we can highly recommend among others Messrs. H. & J. Espen 
 schied, of Coblenz, their cellars being well known on the Rhin 
 as containing a choice variety of wines of the first growths 
 such as Steinberg, Johannisberg, Marcobrunn, Grafenberg 
 Rudesheim, &c. 
 
 The valley of the Ahr may be regarded as the most N 
 point at which the culture of the grape is brought to an 
 perfection; its light and wholesome red wines are chief 
 consumed in the neighbourhood of their growth. Walporzheime 
 and Ahr-Bleicherte, ane procured from respectable sources 
 without the “improvements ” introduced by the chemist Chapta} 
 and subsequently “improved upon” by Dr. Gall, are of a rub 
 colour, strenghtening and astringent in their properties, ani 
 bear a resemblance to Burgundy of an inferior class. 
 
 Whilst thus briefly dwelling upon Rhenish wines in general 
 mention must be made of the effervescing wines which wer 
 first manufactured 40 years ago at Esslingen, Wurzburg ani 
 Treves, but with indifferent success, and subsequently i 
 Mayence, Hochheim and Coblenz, in which latter place ther| 
 are now six thriving manufactories. These wines are know) 
 generally in England under the denomination of sparkliny 
 Hock and Moselle, and are distinguished’ from the Frenel| 
 wines. by the predominance of the flavour of the grape, jj 
 
 | 
 
WINE. XXVII 
 
 ality they owe to the comparatively small quantity of cognac‘ 
 2d in their preparation. It is well known that in the inferior 
 alities of genuine champagne the flavour of cognac, or some 
 her spirit, conceals the want of flavour of the wine. In 
 igland the consumption of these wines is considerably on 
 * increase. It must, however, be confessed, that, in their 
 sophisticated state, they do not find the same favour among 
 > Germans; and to show the extent to which prejudice can 
 carried, it may be mentioned that at Hochheim not only are 
 p bottles labelled with the names of the first French growers, 
 | the brands on the corks, the metallic covering of the 
 titles, and peculiarities in packing are so closely imitated 
 it the most practised eye does not detect the deception, 
 J in this disguise are these wines freely consumed in the 
 antry of their manufacture. The process is exactly similar 
 that of Champagne, for which it often does duty in England. 
 hen obtained in unexceptionable quarters, it is a light and 
 pst agreeable beverage, but unscrupulous individuals too 
 en employ the process as a vehicle for getting rid of wine 
 very inferior quality, sweetness and effervescence concealing 
 > the moment the real nature of the article. 
 
 In bringing these few remarks to a conclusion, it may not 
 ; out of place to caution the traveller against employing any 
 ier than the most respectable wine-merchants. The art of 
 alteration is unhappily widely known, and, what is worse, 
 » label and cork are not always guarantees that the wine is 
 iat it professes to be. It may also be stated that excellence 
 |} quality is wholly incompatible with lowness of price. Good 
 ine bears a high price even on the spot where it is grown. 
 hat is a light and agreeable beverage in Germany will hardly 
 3s muster in the English climate, especially where the palate 
 often cloyed with the strong wines of Spain and Portugal. 
 | a light, agreeable, and wholesome summer beverage the 
 enish wines of the 2nd and 3rd class may of course be im- 
 rted at a very moderate price, the duty upon-such in bottle 
 ing now reduced to 2s. 5d. per gallon; but the highest class 
 iRhine wine, of which Marcobrunner may be taken as a 
 od sample, cannot be drunk in England under six or seven 
 lings a bottle. 
 
 For the convenience of the traveller a list of some of the 
 st known Rhine and Moselle wines is appended; it might 
 | extended considerably, but it would be found impossible 
 | discriminate between the numberless wines of third and 
 irth-class growth. 
 
XXVIII 
 
 Where grown, 
 
 Wines. 
 
 Johannisberg .. . Rheingau. 
 Steinberg ..... do, 
 Ridesheimer-Berg do. 
 
 — Hinterhaus. do. 
 Marcobrunn.. do. 
 Hochheim-Dom- De- 
 
 Chaney. ».»: + . do. 
 Grafenberg do. 
 Geisenheim-Rothen- 
 
 BONS Roe ool. sy 8 do. 
 Johannisberg -Klaus do. 
 Rauenthaler-Berg . do. 
 Hochheim..... do. 
 Hattenheim .... do. 
 Geisenheim x do. 
 Winkel... .. ps do. 
 Ridesheim..... do. 
 Bodenthal ..... do. 
 Assmannshausen do. 
 
 Rupertsberg .. 
 
 Deidesheim ..°. do. 
 Porstiivcee. Gey scics 4 do. 
 Unestein 3.35... do 
 K6nigsbach .... do. 
 Scharlachberg . . . |Rhenish Rhenish. Hessen, 
 INWOTSUOIUN: ales ois Se do. 
 Tiebfrauenmilch do. 
 Laubenheim.... do. 
 
 Engeholl 
 Steeg nrc sae ke. | do. 
 
 Kreutzberg. . 
 
 Walporzheim -.. | Valley of the 
 Ahr-Bleichert.. . Ahr. 
 
 Scharzhofberg... | Moselle. 
 Scharzberg..... do. 
 Brauneberg ...:. do. 
 Pisport... «++ «'« do. 
 Graach ss ofeyie« % do. 
 Zeltingen, ..... do. 
 
 Rhenish Bavaria. 
 
 Phenigh PRissia: Prussia. 
 
 . |Ehrenbreitstein. 
 
 Class. Properties, 
 1 Raciness, delicacy, bouquet. 
 sf The above properties combing 
 with strength. 
 BA Mellowness and body; the find 
 is } from the Orleans, the latte] 
 from the Riessling grape. 
 Bi Fine flavour and bouquet. 
 5 Mellowness combined with pe} 
 culiar and excellent flavour.) 
 4 Of almost equal standing | 
 | Marcobrunn. 
 » |Great delicacy and flavour. 
 ey 
 we Mellowness. | 
 i Generally char 
 Ili. acterised mori 
 fe by bouquet that 
 > mellowness. 
 . Mellowness. 
 99 
 at Fine red wine resembling Bur 
 gundy. 
 IIl, 
 Possess more mellowness ant 
 body than bouquet and flavour 
 Possess | Resenae Wo itgdand.steaenen, tl and flavour, bu 
 less delicacy and raciness that 
 IIL. the wines of the Rheingau. 
 Ill. 
 PE [aie greeable light wines. 
 A good te ope rule beaicd fe wine ll bodied red wine. 
 III, oh Good and wholesome red wines 
 5 astringent, 
 i 
 sa Light, wholesome and agreeabli 
 uy, wines of peculiar fragrance 
 Il. recommended to persons 0 
 
 sedentary habits. 
 
Fall of the Rhine. 
 
 Height above the level of the sea of 
 
 > Feet. ] 
 
 fe Toma-See, source of the | The Rhine at Bacharach 
 Porder-Rhein' .«.*%.+.:+.*.- 7240] 4, - 5, the Lurlei 
 e Rheinwald Glacier, seurce ae as yy steeGoarr: 
 {the Hinter-Rhein. . . . 6822! ,, ¥ ; Boppard . 
 chenau, at the confluence of es # 5, Coblenz . 
 he Vorder- and Hinter-Rhein 1804 re 4 5, Neuwied. 
 e Lake of Constance . . . 10891] ,, ‘3 ,, Andernach 
 Berane. af Bale x .. s) ww . » 7524 5 + $9 .Brobl.. 
 
 i MO OEASDURG es sha, O448) [52 aa so Onn. 
 
 i » Speyerar ns any ve BO4hes a 3, Cologne . 
 
 ” », Mannheim. . . 284] ,, 35 3» Dusseldorf . 
 
 c os, Mayences . i. 02 2/256 lings 5 ;, Wesel. 
 
 "3 so EMO 5 nsw ORL oy », Emmerich 
 
 Average breadth of the Rhine. 
 
 Feet. 
 Perle tide. Gey i a ool At Neuwied 
 ROP OUT E  Tor han Sula) sel PAR sg “Uke: cn, a ie 
 
 meatoheim gL lk a yl 2O0:| ,, Bonn. 
 MAVONCE ss si ereot ci.» 61380 ft 5;, Cologne. 
 1608 | ,, Worringen.- . 
 
 UU UP Son ee eee 
 jween Bingen and Coblenz . 1200] ,, Dusseldorf. . . . 
 
 Coblenz . .... . . 1116] ,, Schenkenschanz (Dutch 
 
 Depth of the Rhine. 
 
 een ele una cirasonrg PEO e Oe RL 
 
 “A Strasburg and Mayence. ... . 
 
 55 BEAVCRCESANC  ESOUE nous. 5) si 6 aco, us cs, 0 Ae 
 
 BECUUTLCL oe ok es te 8 
 
 ween Bonn and COL MOR Es Ts sks seuss 
 
 SS eae I ied a ee 
 
 MINCHON "ss We eT ss ten 
 
 ween Mulheim and Disseldorf .. . 
 
 Buescidor! above tio wwii.) were, «5 kkk 
 = below the town . 
 
 Feet. 
 1260: 
 840 
 1488 
 1212 
 
 5 REY: 
 1140 
 
 front.) 2544 
 
 Feet. 
 3—12 
 5—24 
 
 . 9—72 
 15 
 
 - 10—30 
 18 
 
 25 
 12—31 
 62 
 
 Pas 
 
From Bale to Strasburg . 
 
 »,  Mayence to Bingen. 
 », Bingen to Coblenz 
 
 »  Coblenz to Cologne. 
 35 Cologne to Disseldorf 
 
 Krom Bale to the North Sea 
 
 indicated by an asterisk. 
 
 Length 
 
 jot Strasburg to Lauterburg . ... is 
 t, Lauterburg to Mayence. .f «2. . 
 
 »  Diusseldorf to Emmerich . 
 » Emmerich to Briel (North Sea) . 
 
 . ° . . e 
 
 An annual sum of 125,000/. is expended on 
 other river-works. Of this 
 
 R. = room 
 
 ee light 
 
 B. = breakfast 
 
 D, = dinner 
 
 S. = supper 
 
 exc. W. = exclusive of wine 
 inc. W. — inclusive of wine 
 A. = attendance 
 
 M. = English 
 
 NB. The best hotels and everything 
 
 of the 
 
 Engl. Miles 
 
 e « ° . ° ° e e 
 
 ° e . . . ° ° ° ° 
 
 e e ° . s e . . e 
 
 Abbreviations used in the Handbook. 
 
 N. = north 
 
 8. 7=="s0uth 
 
 K. = east 
 W.= west 
 
 a2 = right 
 
 1 et 
 
 min. = minute 
 hr. == hour, 
 mile 
 
 particularly worthy of note aré 
 
 831/, 
 281/, 
 331/, 
 17?/, 
 381/, 
 587/; 
 34 
 
 65*/, 
 97"/s 
 
 . . 4563/, 
 
 the construction of dams ané¢ 
 the government of Baden pays upwards 0 
 40,000/., that of Prussia almost as much. 
 
 | 
 i 
 
 { 
 
1. From Brussels to Aix-la-Chapelle. 
 
 By express train in 5 hrs.; fares 18 fr. 37, 13 fr. 2c, Custom-house 
 
 wrmalities. on arriving at the station of Aix-la-Chapelle or Cologne. The 
 nest views between Louvain and Liege are to the right. The entire 
 istrict between Liége and Aix-la-Chapelle is replete with interest. 
 Brussels (Hétel de Bellevue, *de Flandre, de i’Europe, 
 e la Grande Bretagne, de France, de la Régence, Windsor, 
 
 ] in the upper part of the town, near the park; * Hotel de Suede, 
 e l’Univers, de Saxe, de l’Angleterre, des Etrangers, de Hol- 
 unde, in the lower part of the town; of the second class: *Hdtel de 
 rabant, Grand-Monargque, Bélier; more moderate: *Hoétel Callo, 
 des Brasseurs, for travellers of moderate requirements), see Baedeker’s 
 elgique et Hollande. 
 
 Shortly after the train has left the handsome Station du 
 Vord, the royal palace of Laeken is seen rising above the 
 artile meadow-land on an eminence tothe ]. The stream which 
 rinds through the pastures is the Senne. To the r. stands the 
 thateau of the Marquis van Assche. In 10 min. stat. Vilvorde 
 ; passed. Near this little town, the most ancient in Brabant, 
 the 1. of the line, is an extensive Penitentiary, with numerous 
 irindows resembling loop-holes, capable of receiving 2000 con- 
 icts. In 25 min. the train stops at the station of 
 
 Malines, Flem. Mechelen, Ger. Mecheln. (Hotel de la Grue, 
 lotel de Brubant, both in the market-place, near the cathedral; 
 it. Antoine, rue d’Egmont; St. Jacques, in the Corn-market ; 
 able d’hdte in all at 1 o’clock. Near the station, Cour Jm- 
 ériale, unpretending and reasonable. ‘“Dejeuner de Malines,” 
 
 dish regarded as a triumph of Belgian culinary skill, may 
 e ordered by the curious). Malines is the central point of 
 ll the Belgian railways, which here diverge in four different 
 irections; travellers should therefore be careful to avoid 
 iistakes- in case of a change of carriage. Malines is equi- 
 istant (15 M.) from Brussels, Antwerp and Louvain. 
 
 The town, situated on the Dyle, with a pop. of 33,855, is 
 eached by the rue d’Egmont. It contains handsome squares, 
 road and regular streets and palatial edifices, but is entirely 
 estitute of animation. Malines labours under the imputation 
 f being a century behind other Belgian towns in commercial 
 rosperity — a circumstance mainly attributable to the supineness 
 nd want of enterprise of its corporation. In 1551, when the 
 trussels and Antwerp canal was constructed, this intelligent 
 ody exerted their influence to prevent its approach to the 
 1 
 
 BAEDEKER’S Rhine. 
 
From Brussels 
 | 
 town. ‘Iwo centuries later, on the construction of the canal 
 from Louvain to Antwerp, a similar infatuation pervaded itg| 
 councils, and at a more recent date they declined to pene 
 the railway to traverse the precincts of the town, which is ir 
 consequence visited by a very small proportion of the vast 
 concourse of travellers which annually passes through its 
 station. As an archiepiscopal residence it is a place of some 
 importance. By a bull of Pius VII. in 1802 the cardinals of 
 Malines were authorized to exercise ecclesiastical jurisdiction 
 over the bishoprics of Mayence, Treves and Aix-la a-Chapelley 
 a privilege they enjoyed till 1821. | 
 The *Cathedral of St. Rumbold (St. Rombaud), com4 
 menced in the 12th and completed in the 15th cent., is 4 
 structure of no great architectural merit; the clumsy, unfinished 
 tower is visible for miles round. The construction of thé 
 latter (340 ft.; proposed height 480 ft.) was commenced in 
 1452, with the aid of the contributions of the pilgrims wh, 
 in that year resorted to the cathedral to purchase the indul4 
 gences granted by Pope Nicholas V. on the occasion of the 
 Turkish war. <A stone in the wall of the platform bears the 
 name of “Louis XV.,” who ascended to this point in 1746) 
 The dial of the tower-clock is 48 ft. in diameter. | 
 The interior of the church (nave 90 ft. high, 39 ft. broad), 
 is imposing, and contains several fine pictures which merif 
 inspection, especially the *Altarpiece by Van Dyck, in the Sj 
 transept, representing the Crucifixion, painted in 1627, jud} 
 diciously cleaned in 1848. This is considered one of this) 
 great master’s finest works, and is remarkable for the ad4 
 mirable disposition of the figures and the profound grief ang 
 resignation expressed by the Virgin (sacristan’s -fee 1 fr.). In 
 the 'N. transept: Adoration of the shepherds, by Quedlyn; om 
 the same side two altarpieces in chapels: Circumcision, by. 
 Michel Coxcie, a native of Malines and pupil of Raphaely 
 painted in 1587, and the Last Supper by Wouters. Adjaceng 
 to the latter, in the last N. chapel, is a marble monument b 
 the Liege sculptor Jehotte to the archbishop Count Mean} 
 (d. 1831), who is represented kneeling before the angel of 
 death. ‘The passage round the choir contains a number of 
 pictures by Herreyns and others, dating from the ae 
 ment of the present century, as well as 25 smaller paintings 
 of the van Lyck school, all representing scenes from the life 
 of St. Rumbold. The Pulpit is of carved wood, of the kind 
 frequently seen in Belgian churches; below is represented the 
 Conversion of St. Paul, above it John and the women at the 
 Cross, and Adam and Eve with the serpent. The Choir containg 
 several episcopal monuments of the 17th cent. and modern] 
 
 2 Route i MALINES. 
 
to Aiz-la- Chapelle. MALINES. 1. Route. 3 
 
 btained glass. A sum of 400/ is annually expended on the 
 restoration of the edifice. 
 
 | The Grande Place contains several ancient buildings, among 
 bthers Les Halles, dating from 1340, now the guard-house, 
 and the Beyard, or Town-hall, of the 15th cent. 
 
 The *Statue of Margaret of Austria (d. 1530), daughter 
 of Maximilian J. and Mary of Burgundy, celebrated as a 
 liplomatist, regent of the Netherlands and tutoress of Charles V., 
 was erected in 1849, as the inscription records. The epitaph 
 she jestingly composed on herself after her second betrothal 
 with the Infante John), during a storm whilst on her way to 
 Spain, is well known: “Ci-yit Margot, la gente demoiselle, qu’ eut 
 teux maris et si mourut pucelle”; and her motto: E etand 
 nfortune fort une.” 
 
 In the vicinity of the cathedral is the Church of St. John, 
 im insignificant edifice, but remarkable for its * High-altar- 
 niece with wings, representing the Adoration of the Magi, by 
 Rubens, which he himself considered one of his best works. 
 Jn the inner side of the wings: the Beheading of John the 
 3aptist, and the Martyrdom of St. John the Evangelist; on the 
 puter side: the Baptism of Christ, and St. John in the Island 
 £ Patmos, both in Rubens’ best style. ‘The carved pulpit 
 ‘epresents the Good Shepherd. 
 
 The Church of Notre Dame, the first to the 1. on 
 pproaching the town from the station, contains (in a chapel 
 vehind the high-altar) /twbens’ celebrated Miraculous Draught of 
 ishes, an admirably coloured picture with wings, painted in 
 618 for the Guild of Fish-mongers for the sum of 1000 florins. 
 Che Botanical Garden contains a bust of the eminent botanist 
 Jodonzeus, a native of Malines. 
 
 The Dyle, which intersects the town, and 6 M. below it 
 alls into the Nethe, forming the Rupe/, is subject to the rise and 
 all of the tide, whence the erroneous conjecture that Malines 
 erives its name from maris linea, the boundary of the sea. 
 
 As the train approaches Louvain, stat. Wespelaer is passed, 
 o the r. of which are seen the estate and gark of the family 
 f Marnef, a favourite resort of the townspeople of Louvain. 
 Che park contains a profusion of grottoes, Chinese bridges, 
 rreek temples, and a motley array of statues and busts of 
 he Greek mythological deities, literary and other celebrities, 
 tousseau, Voltaire, the Prince of Orange etc. According to 
 he partial judgment of the vicinity, this is the most attractive 
 roperty in Belgium; those who have leisure may test the 
 securacy of this opinion. 
 
 Louvain, Flem. Leuven, Ger. Lowen (* Hotel de la Suede; 
 Jour de Mons; Sauvage), comp. Bacdeber’s s Belgique et Hollande. — 
 
 1 * 
 
4. Route q: 
 
 The traveller who 
 visit the **Hotel de Ville, a magnificent edifice in the lated} 
 
 TIRLEMONT. 
 
 is detained 
 
 at Louvain should 
 
 From Brussels| 
 
 | 
 
 not fail to 
 
 Gothic style, erected in 1448-63, and the Gothic *Church 
 of St. Peter, dating from the 15th cent., and remarkable fot 
 
 the symmetry of its proportions. 
 
 The carved wooden stalls 
 
 in the Church of St. Gertrude also well merit inspection. 
 Tirlemont, or Thienen (Hotel des quatre saisons, at the 
 station; Plat d’Etain, Hotel de Flandre, both in 
 place; at the station, “Buffet-restaurant tarife”), 
 extensive area, the town-walls being nearly 6 M. in circumf, 
 
 but is thinly populated (12,178 inhab.). 
 
 The 
 
 the market 
 occupies ay 
 
 *Church al 
 
 St. Germain, believed to date from the 9th cent., is one of 
 
 the most 
 
 ancient Christian 
 
 preserved tower is incontestibly of Roman origin. 
 was the birth-place of the celebrated Jesuit Bollandus, the 
 
 author of the Acta Sanctorum. 
 after his death termed themselves Bollandists. 
 On leaving Tirlemont the train traverses a lofty embank} 
 
 ment, affording an extensive view. 
 
 edifices in existence; the well 
 
 Tirlemont 
 
 Those who continued the work 
 
 In clear weather the Lion 
 
 and the Prussian monument on the field of Waterloo may 
 be distinguished in the distance to the r. 
 
 Between the stations of Hsemael and Landen the line inter 
 sects the plain of Neerwinden, the scene. of two important 
 
 battles. 
 
 In the first the allies under William DI. of England 
 were defeated in the Spanish war of succession by the French} 
 
 under the Marshal of Luxembourg, July 29th, 1693; in the 
 second the French under Dumouriez and Louis Philippe, aij 
 that time “Général Egalité,” were defeated by the Austriang 
 
 under the command of the Duke 
 of Belgium. 
 
 of Coburg, and driven out 
 
 Landen was the birthplace of Pepin of Landen, ancestot 
 
 of Pepin the Little and Charlemagne, and “major-domo” afl 
 
 the French King Clotaire II. 
 
 interred on the hill which still 
 commenced the ascendancy of the Carlovingian line. 
 
 He died here in 640 and was 
 
 bears his name. 
 
 With hin 
 
 | 
 | 
 | 
 
 From Landen a branch-line diverges to Aix-la-Chapelle, pursuing a somes 
 The principal stations are St. Zrond, 
 
 what shorter but less interesting route. 
 Hasselt (capital of the province 
 by the Dutch over the Belgians, Aug. 6th, 1831) and Mastricht. 
 
 Beyond stat. Waremme, the line intersects the well-preserved 
 Roman road, termed by the people of the country the Roa 
 of Brunhilde, from Bavay (Bavacum Nerviorum) near Mons tl 
 Tongues, 9 M. to the S. E. of Waremme. 
 district of which Waremme was formerly the capital, wa 
 noted for the strength and bravery of its inhabitants, as the 
 old proverb testifies: “Qui passe dans le Hesbain est combattil 
 le lendemain.” ‘| 
 
 of Limburg, the scene of a victory gained 
 
 The Hesbaye, @ 
 
 { 
 
Aia-la- Chapelle. LIEGE. 1. Route. 5 
 
 The undulating, agricultural district of Brabant, with its 
 pmewhat phlegmatic Germanic inhabitants, is quitted near 
 at. Ans (450 ft. higher than Liége) for a mining tract of 
 buntry with a Walloon population of Celtic origin, distingnished 
 y the activity and vivacity of their disposition. 
 
 As the train descends the rapid (1: 30) incline to Liege, 
 ‘fine view of the populous city and the animated valley of 
 -e Meuse is obtained. 
 | Liege, Flem. Luik, Ger. Liittich (* Hotel de Suede; * Belle- 
 1e; * Hotel d’ Angleterre; Hotel de l’ Europe; Hotel Schiller, etc.), 
 pp. 97,544; comp. Baedeker’s Belgique et Hollande. — The 
 aveller whose time is limited should visit the Palais de 
 astice, the Church of St. Jacques, the Cathedral 
 it. Paul), and, for the sake of the view, t 
 
 he Citadel. 
 'On quitting Liege the Meuse is crossed by the handsome 
 pnt du Vai Benoit. Numerous lofty chimneys afford indication 
 _ the industrial prosperity of the district. The extensive 
 mc foundry of the Vieille-Montagne company is next 
 issed, and the Ourthe, which is here joined by its affluent 
 e Vesdre, crossed. Chinée, the first station beyond Lidge, 
 another manufacturing town. 
 Chaudfontaine (Grand Hotel des Bains; Hotel d’ Angleterre) 
 a small, but picturesquely situated watering-place, a fa- 
 burite resort of the inhabitants of Liége. The warm spring 
 (04° Fahr.), which rises. on an island in the Vesdre, is 
 imped up and conveyed to the bath-estab. by means of a 
 rge water-wheel. Since 1862 Chaudfontaine has enjoyed 
 e amenities of a ‘Cursaal.” 
 | Before entering the tunnel, the picturesque castle of La 
 ochette is seen on an eminence to the 1. As Le Trooz is 
 bproached, the traveller perceives the ancient castle of that 
 me, perched on the rocks to the r. of the line. For upwards 
 ) a century a manufactory of gun-barrels has been established 
 | the building. Farther on, to the r., the castle of Fraipont. 
 Between stat. Nessonvaux and Pepinster, to the r. of the 
 te, stands the Chateau de Masures (masure = ruined house), 
 ected by the late Vicomte Biolley, a wealthy manufacturer 
 Verviers, and said to occupy the site of a hunting-seat of 
 sng Pepin. At Pepinster (Pepin’s terre) a branch line 
 werges to Spa (Hotel d’Orange; Hotel Britannique; Hotel 
 | Flandre, de York, de Bellevue, etc.; Cour de Londres, mo- 
 Irate), 71/, M. distant; see Baedeker’s Belgique et Hollande. The 
 Ixt stat. Ensival, to the 1]. of the line, is almost contiguous 
 Verviers. 
 ' Verviers (/otel du Chemin de fer, at the stat.; Hotel des Pays- 
 as, in the town), with 28,691 inhab., is a busy, commercial 
 
6 Route 2. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 
 
 town of recent origin, and consists almost exclusively of} 
 manufactories, the residences of their owners and the habit-) 
 ations of the operatives. In Verviers and its environs up-} 
 wards of 350,000 pieces of cloth, worth 3,020,000/., are) 
 annually manufactured. The town itself contains nothing ¥ 
 worthy of note. 
 As stat. Dolhain, a modern town, picturesquely situated 7 
 in the valley of the Vesdre, is approached, the ancient fortress 7 
 of Limburg is seen on an eminence. This is almost they 
 sole remnant of Limburg, the once flourishing a. of the] 
 duchy of that name, destroyed by Louis XIV. in 167 The¥ 
 castle was the family seat of the powerful ducal fnty off 
 Limburg, to which the emperors Henry VII., Charles IV sa 
 Wenceslaus, and Sigismund of Germany belonged. The view} 
 obtained from this eminence is fine, but scarcely pathiciout] a 
 so to arrest the passing traveller. Pedestrians, however, will 
 be well repaid by a walk (8—10 hrs.) from Dolhain by Ver-] 
 viers to Liege. | 
 Herbesthal, the first Prussian village, is the Somers 
 station (luggage examined at Aix or Cologne). Beyond stat | 
 Assenet, the village of Lontzen and the castle of W elkenhausen © 
 lie to the l. of the line. The train crosses the valley of the} 
 Geul by a handsome viaduct of 17 arches, 120 ft. in height. : 
 To the 1. lies the village of Hergenrad, and in the distance] 
 beyond, the Hineburg or ‘Emmaburg, situated on the brow of thes 
 wooded mountains, a country residence of Charlemagne, where,7 
 according to tradition, the intimacy between the emperor's: 
 daughter Emma and his secretary Eginhard was formed. 
 The train next passes through two tunnels of 540 ft. andl 
 2300 ft. respectively, reaches stat. Ronheide, and finally de escends | 
 by a considerable incline to Aix-la-Chapelle. 
 
 seit 
 
 Se AROT I ie 
 
 2. Aix-la-Chapelle. F 
 
 Hotels. *Hédtel Dremel (Grand Monargque, R. 20, L. 6, B. 12 | 
 A. 88egr.) and *H6tel Naellens, opposite to the Elisenbr unnen, both ‘Ist class 
 hotels. with Corresponding charges. Hotel Frank or Bellevue. Dragon® 
 d'Or. *Hoétel Hoyer (Imperial Crown Hotel) very good (R. and B. 15,9 
 D. inc. W. 22',, A. 5Sgr.) Hotel de l’Empereur, with baths. Grand® 
 Hotel, more a boarding house. — Of the 2nd class: *Hétel Schlemmer) 
 (Elephant); *K6nig von Spanien, *Hdétel Royal, Hétel du chemi: nie 
 
 de fer, all three near the Rhenish railway station. 
 Bavarian beer in the rock-cellars at the foot of the Lousberg (p. 9). 
 Restaurant in the *Klippel to the KE. of the Blisenbrunnen; “*Bernart ss 
 in the Adalbertstrasse. 
 Carriage (Vigilante) for 1 pers. 5 Sgr. from the station to the town. 
 Porcelain and Glass at Gerdes- Neuber’s s, not far from the Elisen- 
 brunnen, opp. to the Klippel. 
 Railway to Cologne see R. 4, to Dusseldorf, Cr efeld, Ruhrort R. 3, to” 
 . Mastricht 5 trains daily in 1 hr., to Landen expr.-tr. in 23/, hrs., to Antwergm 
 
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bwn-hall. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 
 
 rains in 4'4—6, to Ostend 3 trains in 7—9 hrs., to Paris (pr. Erquelines) 
 *xpr.-trs. In 11'/, hrs. 
 
 Telegraph Office at the station of the Rhenish railway. 
 
 English Church in the Anna Strasse. Resident chaplain. 
 
 Aix-la-Chapelle, or Aachen, contains but few reminiscences 
 
 its ancient grandeur as an imperial city. Almost the. only 
 ildings of a remote date which still exist are the cathedral, 
 
 2 corn exchange, townhall, and some of the gates. It now 
 esents the appearance of a prosperous modern town with 
 
 numerous manufactories, handsome streets and well-stocked 
 ops. Of the Aquisgranum or Civitas Aquensis of the Romans, 
 
 2 station of the Legio prima, no trace is visible. Even the 
 iminiscences of Charlemagne, the founder of Aix-la-Chapelle, 
 1ich was his birthplace and favorite residence, and the second 
 y in his empire, are but scanty. From his death (814) to 
 31 Aix-la- Chapelle was the scene of the coronation of all 
 2 German emperors (37), and was called par excellence 
 > free city of the holy Roman empire. The insignia of 
 ipire were here preserved till 1793, when they were taken 
 Vienna and deposited in the Imperial treasury. <A large 
 oportion of the population (54,000, 2000 Prot.) is engaged 
 manufactures of various kinds (cloth, needles, machinery, 
 dking-glasses). 
 
 Aix-la-Chapelle has frequently been the scene of Imperial 
 ts, ecclesiastical convocations, and congresses, the last of 
 rich was that of 1818, at which three monarchs (Prussia, 
 istria, Russia) were present, and in which it was determined 
 
 rec al the German troops still in France. In May, 1668, 
 
 > peace between Louis XIV. and Spain was here concluded, 
 
 d the second peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, of October, 1748, 
 ‘minated the Austrian war of succession. 
 
 The Town-hall (Rathhuus), erected in 1358, contains a 
 Il restored in the ancient style, and decorated with *frescoes 
 
 Rethel and Kehren, and small statues of 36 German 
 iperors. 
 
 Frescoes in the Kaisersaal. 1. The emperor Frederick Redbeard 
 the grave of Charlemagne; 2. Fall of the ‘‘Irmensaule”’; 3. Battle with the 
 ‘acens at Corduba; 4. Conquest of Paviain 774; all by Rethel. 5. Baptism 
 Wittekind and Alboin; 6. Coronation of Charlemagne in St. Peter's at 
 me; 7. Construction of the Cathedral of Aix-la-Chapelle; 8. Abdication of 
 arlemagne and Coronation of his son Louis; all by Kehren,.— The town- 
 incil hall contains portraits of Fred. William III., Napoleon, Josephine, 
 emperors Leopold I], Charles VI, and VII., the empress Maria Theresa, 
 i lastly the oldest and most celebrated portrait of Charlemagne by an 
 snown master. 
 
 Towards the W. stands the Granusthurm, an ancient semi- 
 ‘cular tower, which formerly belonged to the Imperial palace 
 d connected it with the cathedral. The square tower on 
 2K. side dates from the commencement of the 13th cent. The 
 
8. Route 2. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. The 
 
 fountain in front of the Rathhaus is decorated with a statne of 
 Charlemagne, of little value as a work of art, erected in 1620) 
 The Cathedral, or Munsterkirche, consists of two distineal 
 parts in different styles of architecture. That portion erected] 
 by Charlemagne in 796—804 and consecrated by Leo IIlj 
 improperly called the nave of the church, is an octagon of 
 50 ft. in diameter, surrounded by a sixteen-sided gallery and 
 terminating in a cupola; it is one of the most remarkable 
 monuments of early Christian architecture, but its effect is 
 unfortunately much marred by modern disfigurements. The 
 marble and granite columns which support the octagon oom 
 brought from Rome and the palace of Ravenna. They were 
 wantonly broken by the French in 1794 and taken to Parisj 
 but were brought back in 1815 and restored to their places) 
 in 1845 at the expense of the late king Fred. William IVJ 
 Under the gilt chandelier , presented by Frederick Barbarossa, 
 is the tomb of Charlemagne, indicated by the inscription 
 “Carolo Magno.” This tomb was opened in the year 1000 by 
 Otto IIT. and the body of the great emperor found, seated om 
 a marble throne, used afterwards for the coronation ceremoniesy 
 and still to be seen in the gallery, or “‘Hochmunster”. The 
 ancient sarcophagus of Parian marble, in which the remaing 
 of Charlemagne reposed for 50 years after the opening of hig 
 tomb, has also been placed here; on the front is represented 
 the Rape of Proserpine. i 
 The lofty and elegant *Choir, added to the original pari 
 of the edifice in 1353-1413, but in a totally different style, 
 contains good modern stained-glass windows, representing) 
 scenes from the life of the Virgin. The Pulpit, richly adorned 
 with gold, precious stones, and carved ivory, was presented 
 by Henry Il. (The sacristan uncovers the pulpit and sarq| 
 cophagus, 1—3 pers. 15 Sgr.) | 
 The Sacristy contains the so-called “Great Relies,” which are held im 
 the highest veneration by the superstitious; they consist of a robe of the virgingy 
 the swaddling clothes in which the infant Saviour was wrapped, the bloody clot 
 with which the body of John the Baptist was covered after his execution, and the 
 cloth with which Christ was girded when on the Cross. ‘These are publicly ex 
 hibited only once in seven years, and attract vast crowds of religions devoteess| 
 Among the numerous “Smaller relics ave the leathern girdle of Christ, a part of 
 the true Cross, the girdle of the Virgin, &c., all of which are preserved im 
 curious and richly ornamented caskets and monstrances. Among the treasures) 
 are exhibited the skull, gigantic arm- (really leg) bone, and hunting-horn of 
 Charlemagne. ‘The smaller relics are shown for a fee of 1 Thlr. for 1—8 pers 
 The church-doors, as well as the brass gates of the arch 
 ways of the upper gallery, date from the time of Serie 
 the peculiar Cloisters with their short pillars belong to th 
 12th and 13th centuries. 
 On the r. and }. sides of the principal entrance are a brazem| 
 wolf and pine-apple of Roman origin, supported by modern 
 
 2a 
 
 at 
 
 ee 
 
 } 
 i 
 r 
 
iphur Springs. ATX-LA-CHAPELLE. 3, Lote. 
 
 flars. They formerly belonged to a fountain in the fish- 
 uket; the water flowed from small apertures among the hair 
 ‘the wolf, or, when these were closed, from holes in the 
 ne-apple which crowned the summit of the fountain. 
 
 The other churches of Aix-la-Chapelle contain few objects 
 ‘sufficient interest to detain the traveller. — Near the cathedral 
 situated the *Corn-Exchange (PI. 15), decorated with 
 itues of the 7 electors, probably of the 12th cent. 
 
 The celebrated warm Su/phur-springs, known as early as 
 2 Roman period, rise partly in the town and partly in the 
 ighbouring village of Burtscheid. The principal is the Kaisers- 
 elle (on the slope of the market-hill, in the Hotel de ’?Em- 
 reur), which supplies the Kaiserbad, the Neubad, the ‘Queen 
 Hungary,” and the Elisenbrunnen. The Quirinusbad and 
 e three lower springs in the Comphausbad are somewhat less 
 
 werful in their effects. 
 
 In the gardens near the pump-room of the Elisenbrunnen 
 1. 14) a band plays from 7 to 8 a.m. during the season. 
 rar it is the handsome Theatre (PI. 20), in the broad street 
 ading from the railway station into the town. 
 
 The old Curhaus (PI. 16) in the Comphausbadstrasse, 
 ected in 1782, on the E. side of the town, contains ball, 
 ading, refreshment and other rooms (adm. 6 Segr.), open from 
 }a.m. (reading-room from 8) to 10 p.m.; adjoining it is the 
 w Cursaal, opened in 1863. Music in the garden from 
 ‘to 4}/, o’clock. 
 
 Burtscheid, or Borcette (St. Charles; Rosenbad; Schwerthad), 
 sw connected with Aix-la-Chapelle by a series of new build- 
 es, is also celebrated for its baths. The Kochbrunnen (156° Fahy.) 
 ith the other warm springs, unite their waters and form the 
 -called Warm brook, separated by a footpath from the Cold 
 ook: both of which unite in the Warm pond, ‘/. M. from 
 artscheid. 
 
 The *Lousberg, a wooded eminence 200 ft. in height, 
 iM. distant from the Rhenish station, and */, M. from the 
 ont-Thor, is intersected with walks and pleasure crounds 5 
 its base is the Felsenbierkeller (rock beer-cellar, p. 6). The 
 immit commands a fine survey of the busy town and environs 
 * Aix-la-Chapelle and the undulating country in the vicinity; 
 
 the E. is the rich, grassy Soersthal, with numerous country 
 ‘sidences and coal-mines. The white Wallfahrtskirche (pilgrims’ 
 arch), on the adjacent Salvatorberg, is a conspicuous object 
 
 the landscape. 
 
 The Frankenburg (p. 12) which is situated 1M. to the E. 
 - the station, was once a hunting seat of Charlemagne. The 
 icient ivy-grown tower belongs to the original building, but 
 
 5 
 
10 Route 3. EMMABURG. 
 
 the principal part dates from 1642. The pond which surroun 
 the castle was once a large lake, in which, according to 
 ancient tradition, the magic ring of Fastrada (R. 35), the 1: 
 wife of Charlemagne, was sunk, and attracted the monarch 
 this spot, where he sat for whole days gazing pensively 
 the lake, and mourning for his lost consort. 
 
 About */, M. farther in the same direction is Trimbor 
 a grove where a Roman legion-stone and a gigantic sarcophag 
 were discovered. ‘The artificial ruin at the entrance is co 
 structed of the fragments of a chapel of the time of Charlemagn 
 
 A marble monument, erected on the Treves road, a fe 
 minutes’ walk to the S. of the town, marks the spot whe 
 the three monarchs met in 1818 to express their gratitude f 
 the victory of Leipsic. 
 
 The grounds and promenades of the Carlshéhe, ?/, } 
 from Honheide (station on the line towards Belgium), afto: 
 the finest view of Aix-la-Chapelle. 
 
 In the vicinity of the Geul-viaduet (on the line towarc 
 Belgium, 3%/,M. to the S.W. of Aix-la-Chapelle) stands th 
 ancient castle of Emmaburg, from which Eginhard, the privat 
 secretary of Charlemagne, is said to have abducted the princes 
 Kmma. Near it are the extensive cadmia mines and zin 
 foundries of the society Vieille Montagne, in the parish ¢ 
 Moresnet, neutral ground belonging to Prussia and Belgiur 
 in common. 
 
 3. From Aix-la-Chapelle to Dusseldorf, 
 Crefeld, and Ruhrort. 
 
 By Railway to Diisseldorf in 2'/ hrs.; fares: 2 Thir. 9, 1 Thier. 22, 0 
 21 Sgr.; to Ruhrort in 3°/, hrs.; fares: 2 Thir. 25, 2 Thir. 4, or 26 Ser. 
 
 This line forms the N.W. side of the triangle describec 
 by it in conjunction with the Cologne and Aix-la-Chapelle 
 and the Cologne and Crefeld lines. Travellers proceeding by 
 this route from Aix-la-Chapelle to Diisseldorf effect a saving 
 of I hr., and, on the journey to Oberhausen and Berlin, of} 
 2 hrs. The second-class carriages are not inferior to those 
 of the first class on the Rhenish-Belgian line. The country 
 which is traversed presents little to interest the tourist in 
 search of the picturesque, but is, in a commercial point of 
 view, a district of great importance, and one of the most ind 
 dustrial and densely populated (720 inhab. to 1 sq. M.) i 
 Prussia. 
 
 The line has two stations at Aix-la-Chapelle, one at the 
 Marschierthor, near the Rhenish station, another at the Templers 
 bend, near the-Pont-Thor. It intersects the walls of the 
 
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CREFELD, 3. Route. 11 
 
 in and passes by the foot of the Lousberg (p. 9). At 
 shterich the Mastricht line diverges to the |. and joins the 
 ge and Lowen line at Landen. (From Aix-la-Chapelle to 
 stricht in 1 hr.) 
 
 At Kohlscheid, opposite to Bardenberg, both mining 
 ages, the line begins to descend the pretty and animated 
 wmthal, at the extremity of which Herzogenrath (lrench 
 duc) with its old castle, situated 200 ft. lower than the 
 -mentioned stations, is reached. On the heights to the 1. 
 seen the ancient abbey of A/osterrath. 
 
 Near Geilenkirchen are seen the castles of Rimburg, Zwe- 
 ggen, and beyond it, Trips. The train now leaves the Wurm, 
 verses the fertile and undulating Duchy of Julich, crosses 
 erassy plain of the Roer between Lindern and Baal, passes 
 kelenz, an ancient town with fine church of the 14th cent., 
 t a ruined castle, Wickrath, and Rheydt (Arisemann). 
 
 Schloss Dyck, seat of the Prince of Salm-Reifferscheid-Dyck, with beauti- 
 park and grounds, contains one of the finest collections of cacti in Murope, 
 in opp. to the gate of the chateau). Schloss Liedberg, on an eminence 
 . N. from the latter, commands an extensive view. 
 
 Gladbach, or Miinchen-Gladbach (Herfs), Viersen (/lilgers), 
 next stations, as well as the neighbouring towns of Oden- 
 ‘chen (Krosch), Diilken (Siemes), and Siichteln (/orst), 
 in one of the richest manufacturing districts in Germany, 
 ich previous to the American war annually imported upwards 
 4 million pounds of cotton-yarn from England, and can 
 ust of one of the most considerable silk and velvet manu- 
 tories (at Viersen) on the continent, as well as numerous 
 ier branches of industry.. The workmen employed in these 
 ablishments are an industrious and thriving race, and 
 1erally own the cottages and gardens they occupy. 
 At Gladbach the line to Kleinenbruch, Neuss (p. 39), Obercassel, and 
 sseldorf, diverges off to the r. 
 
 The Crefeld train continues in a N. direction, crosses the 
 wth Canal, commenced by Napoleon as a means of com- 
 mication between the Rhine at Neuss and the Meuse, 
 J reaches Crefeld (*Oberheim, R. and B. 18 Sgr., D. ine. 
 . 20 Sgr.; *Wilder Mann), seat of the principal silk and 
 lvet manufactories in Prussia. The quantity of raw silk 
 ported in 1853, principally from Turin and Milan, exceeded 
 0,000 Ibs. he Crefeld fabrics, worth 1,500,000/. annually, 
 with those of Lyons in quality and finish, and are largely 
 ported to America. 
 
 The population (14,000 in 1835) now amounts to 51,000, 
 whom 13,000 are Protestants, and 1000 Anabaptists ; the 
 ter settled here, where they found protection under the Princes 
 Orange (1600—1702), when they were banished from the 
 
STOLBERG. | 
 Duchies of Julich and Berg. In 1702 Crefeld and the adi 
 jacent County of Meurs became Prussian. In June 1758] 
 Prince Ferdinand of Brunswick gained a victory over the} 
 French under the Prince of Bourbon-Condé in the vicinity of} 
 Crefeld. The battle field is marked by a monument. (Railway| 
 to Cologne see R. 11). . 
 
 The train next passes Uerdingen, a manufacturing: town} 
 on the Rhine, and reaches Homberg, the terminus of the line. | 
 Passengers are conveyed by steamboats from here to Ruhrort| 
 (* Cleve Hotel), to the station of the Cologne and Minden 
 railway, on the opposite bank of the river. 
 
 The Ruhr, which unites with the Rhine at Ruhrort, forms! 
 an excellent harbour, capable of accommodating 400 vessels,| 
 the best river-haven in Germany. The productive coal-mines| 
 of the Ruhr yield 17/, million tons annually, about half of; 
 which is exported to Holland and the remainder conveyed| 
 in barges, towed by tug-steamers, of which Ruhrort alone| 
 possesses 16, to the Upper Rhine. Opposite to the station! 
 are the extensive iron-works (6 blast, and 108 puddling fur-| 
 naces) of the Phoenix Company. From Ruhrort by a branch| 
 line to Oberhausen (p. 24), a station on the main line, in| 
 20 min. | 
 
 12 Route 4. 
 
 | 
 
 4. From Aix-la-Chapelle to Cologne. 
 
 By the Rhenish Railway in 1'!/4,—2 hrs.; fares: 2 Thir. 15, 1 Thlr. 95, 
 and 1 Thir. 8 Sgr. Return-tickets valid only for day of issue and day 
 following. | 
 
 Few lines in Germany exhibit such varied forms of railway] 
 engineering in so short a distance as that between the Belgian] 
 irontier and Cologne. The viaducts near Aix-la-Chapelle ang 
 over the Geul and the tunnel of Kénigsdorf are among the | 
 most remarkable structures of the kind in Germany. 
 
 On leaving the station the train crosses the valley of the} 
 Wurm and passes close by the Krankenburg (on the 1.), once | 
 the favourite residence of Charlemagne; it then passes through | 
 the Mrmer Tunnel (*/, M.), traverses the Reichsbusch wood, and | 
 stops at the Kambacher Mihle, the stat. for the flourishing and, 
 rapidly increasing town of Stolberg (Hissel; Welter). 
 
 The mines of Stollberg and its environs were first worked in. the. 
 ivth cent. by the Protestants who were banished from France and Aix-ia- 
 Chapelle, and to them the town is indebted for its present prosperity. The 
 principal products of the district are zinc, lead, and silver; there are also, 
 numerous manufactories of various descriptions, the coal for the supply of] 
 which is found in abundance in the neighbourhood. Scarcely another locality 
 in the whole of Germany exhibits so many branches of industry within so} 
 small aspace. The number of workmen employed in these different establish=" 
 ments amounts to upwards of 12,600, and the annual value of the zinc, lead, 
 Silver and coals yielded by the mines exceeds 450,000J. 
 
ESCHWEILER. 3d. Route. 13 
 
 The train now traverses a most picturesque district, with 
 lumerous coal-mines and iron-foundries, crosses the Jrde and 
 pnters a tunnel, on emerging from which, it stops at 
 | Stat. Eschweiler (Raisin), a manufacturing town. Farther 
 on, to the 1., near the village of Nothberg, lies the Réttger 
 Sehloss, an old castle with four towers. ‘The pottery village 
 of Langerwehe, on the hillside, now comes in sight. To 
 the r., on the hills, are several villages, among which is 
 Werth, said to have been the birthplace of the celebrated 
 imperial general Johann von Werth, who gained many victories 
 ver the French and Swedes in the 30 years’ war, and in 
 July, 1636, even penetrated as far as Paris itself. The blue 
 nountains in the distance to the r. are the spurs of the Life. 
 
 To the r. the view is now bounded by the Hochwuld, a long 
 lidge of hills, from which in the distance rises the variegated 
 sandstone peak of Burgberg. At the base of the wooded heights 
 ies the village of Merode with a handsome old turreted castle 
 pf the same name, seat of a wealthy Belgian family. The 
 Roer is next crossed, and the train stops at 
 
 Stat. Diiren (Bellevue), the Marcodurum of Tacitus, a busy, 
 manufacturing town, situated in a fertile plain. Beyond stat. 
 iBuir, the church-spire of Kerpen is seen to the r. Stat. 
 ‘orrem is situated in the luxuriant vale of the A7r/t. On 
 he 1. stand the castles of Frenz and Hemmersbach or Horrem. 
 This valley abounds with castles of the Rhenish nobility, who 
 ftave founded an institution for the education of their sons 
 it Bedburg, 6 M. to the N.W. of Horrem. The valley of the 
 (drft is soon quitted by the Konigsdorf tunnel, 1 M. in length, 
 jon emerging from which 
 i Stat. Konigsdorf is reached. Farther on, to the r. in 
 the distance, is seen the village of Brauweiler, with its ancient 
 Benedictine Abbey, now a reformatory aud workhouse. The 
 ld Abbey Church, erected at the commencement of the 15th cent., 
 in the late Romanesque style, contains an engraved tombstone 
 of the 15th cent., and some ancient frescoes on the vaulted 
 seiling of the chapter-house, both valuable in the history of art. 
 
 As Cologne is approached the line traverses a rich and 
 fertile plain, studded with detached houses and factories. The 
 hills to the r. are the spurs of the Vorgebirge, a low range 
 of hills which commence on the 1. bank of the Rhine between 
 Cologne and Bonn. Cologne s. R. 10. 
 
 5. From Rotterdam to Disseldorf. 
 
 By Steamboat daily (Diisseldorf Co. dep. at 6, Netherlands Co. at 
 8 a.m.; the former in connection with the Gen. Steam Nay. Co. three times 
 & week, the latter with the “Batavia” once a week, in 24 hrs.; less fatiguing 
 
 ee eee eee 
 
14 Route 3. ROTTERDAM. From Rotterdan 
 
 | 
 and expensive than by railway; fares: 2 Thlir. 4, 1 Thir. 13 Sgr.; 100 lbs. 0. 
 luggage free. 
 
 By railway in 6%/, hrs.; fares: 6 Thir. 16, 4 Thlr. 22, and 3 Thir. 9!/ Sgr} 
 The principal stations are Gouda, Arnheim, Emmerich (Prussian custom, 
 house), Wesel and Oberhausen. 
 
 Rotterdam (*New Bath Hotel; *St. Lucas; Arend; Adler’4} 
 Engl. and American Hotel; Weimer; Verhaareun; the last two fo! 
 travellers of moderate requirements), see Baedeker’s Belgique et Holiande, 
 
 Soon after the steamer has quitted the ‘“ Boompjes” or 
 quay, with its handsome rows of houses and animated traffic; 
 the machine-factory and wharf of | 
 
 r. Fijenoord is reached. It belongs to the Netherlands| 
 Steamboat Co. and employs upwards of 700 hands. Permission} 
 to inspect this interesting estab. may be obtained from the! 
 director M. van Oord at Rotterdam. Ferry-boat to Rotterdam 
 every quarter of an hour, fare d cents. 
 
 L. Kralingen, with extensive salmon-fishery; the utmost) 
 care is here employed to ensure the security of the dykes 
 which confine the river. 
 
 r. Ysselmonde, opp. to the influx of the Yssel (not to be 
 confounded with the river of that name in Guelders) into the} 
 Meuse (Maas). ‘The turreted chateau in the vicinity belonged 
 to a former burgomaster of Rotterdam. 
 
 r. “¢ Huis ten Donk, a handsome country residence, sur- 
 rounded by trees which extend to the water’s edge. 
 
 l. Krimpen, near the confluence of the Leck (as the Rhine 
 is here termed) and the Meuse. 
 
 r. Kinderdijk, a long row of neat houses, with numerous! 
 windmills, derives its name (= children’s dyke) from a tra- 
 dition that some children in a cradle were here landed in| 
 safety during an inundation. 
 
 j.: Lekkerkerk, protected by long dykes from the inundations 
 of the Leck. 
 
 r. Streefkerk, with a picturesque church. 
 
 l. Schoonhoven; r. Niewwfoort. 
 
 r. Ameyde, where the Zederick Canal intersects the entire) 
 island of Betuwe; 1. Jaarsveld. : 
 
 l. Vreeswyk, whence on the arrival of the steamboats a| 
 diligence runs to Utrecht, and also a passenger-boat on the) 
 canal which here connects Utrecht with the Rhine. Vreesw yg 
 is the limit of the rise and fall of the tide. 
 
 r. Vianen (Brederode). Between this and Culeuborg are} 
 water-gates or sluices, by means of which the entire distrief| 
 may be laid under water in case of a hostile invasion. To 
 the r., and farther on, to the 1., are situated two fortified 
 block-houses, poe racied for the detour of the river. 
 
 r. Culenborg, with its low tower, surrounded by wool 
 was once the seat of the powerful counts of that name, whe 
 
ito Diisseldorf. ARNHEIM. oO, Woute. Tip 
 
 > 
 
 acted a prominent part in the struggles of the Dutch in 1566 
 ito liberate themselves from the Spanish yoke. 
 
 | Jl. Wyk by Duurstede, now a fortress, the Batavodurum of 
 ithe Romans, was in the time of Charlemagne a flourishing 
 jcommercial town. ‘The steamboat here enters the Rhine, 
 Iproperly so called. The narrow river which diverges to the ]. 
 pretains the name of Rhine, and passing by Utrecht and Leyden, 
 jempties itself into the North Sea. 
 
 1. The tower of Amerongen; then Elst, a long straggling 
 village. 
 
 1. Rhenen (Konig von Béhmen) possesses a Gothic church, 
 the tower of which, erected between 1492 and 1531, is the 
 finest in Holland. 
 
 Halfway between Rhenen and Wageningen rises the Heimen- 
 berg (*Ridder), a slight eminence commanding an extensive 
 iview. The Konigssitz, a bench on the summit, derives its 
 Iname from Frederick, Count Palatine and king of Bohemia, 
 hwho having been expelled from his territory after a battle 
 yaear Prague in 1620, repaired to Rhenen, where he lived in 
 fretirement under the protection of his uncle Prince Maurice 
 of Orange. 
 
 r. Opheusden, with a flying bridge. 
 
 1]. Wageningen, a small but ancient town of some im- 
 portance, connected with the Rhine by a canal, and situated 
 41), M. from the railway stat. Ede. 
 
 r. The villages of Renkum and Heteren 
 
 The banks now become more elevated and picturesque; 
 he district to the |. istermed the Veluwe, to the r. the Betuwe, 
 signifying respectively the barren and the fruitful tract. To 
 whe 1. the castle of Doorenward with its two towers; beyond 
 t Duinhoog; then Vosterbeek, with several villas, birthplace of 
 he Emp. Henry ILI. (1017). To the r. the spire of the village 
 tf Elsen; then the small castle of Meinerswijk. The wooded 
 shain of hills to the |., as Arnheim is approached, is sprinkled 
 with country residences. 
 
 l. Arnheim. (*Zon, outside the N.W. gate, the nearest 
 yo the railway stat. and the pier of the Netherlands Co.; 
 *Zwynshoofd [Schweinskopf, boar’s head, a sign frequently 
 ween in Holland] in the town; * Hotel de Bellevue; * Hotel des 
 Pays-Bus, near the pier of the Disseldorf Co.; de Puauw, not 
 ar from the stat. good 2nd el. house.) — Arnheim with a pop. 
 of 20,904 (1/, Rom. Cath.), was long the seat of the Dukes of 
 lGuelders, and is still the capital of the province of that name. 
 An ancient proverb describes the inhabitants as: “ Hoog van 
 noed, klein van goed, een zwaard in de hand, is ’t wapen van 
 Gelderland” (High of mood, little of good, sword in hand, 
 
16 Route 5. EMMERICH. From Rotterdan 
 : 
 the coat of arms of Guelderland). he town, situated on thc 
 S. slopes of the chain of hills of the Veluwe, was newly 
 fortified after. its capture by the French in 1672. In 181% 
 the French, who again occupied the town and possessed | 
 strongly fortified camp in the vicinity, were expelled by thé 
 Prussians. : 
 Although a good specimen of a clean Dutch town, it offers 
 little to detain the traveller. The Groote Kerk (large church 
 contains several monuments of Dukes of Guelders. The Tow? 
 Hall derives its local appellation of Duivelshuis (devil’s house 
 from the grotesque figures with which it is adorned. 
 
 The environs far surpass those of any other Dutch town) 
 The estate of * Hartjesberg, the property of a wealthy Dutel 
 gentleman, deserves a visit (entrance near the railway stat., ¥/, 2M 
 to the N. of the town). ‘The park and grounds are es te 
 the public; the traveller, however, is recommended to apply 
 to the custodian (at the lodge), for the sake of gaining access 
 to the Belvedere, or tower, the prospect from which wil! 
 amply repay the ascent. | 
 
 Immediately below the town is situated the Rehberg, ¢ 
 slight eminence laid out as pleasure-grounds. Higher up iy 
 the country-seat Heidenoord (or ‘de Koepel,” = cupola); if 
 the adjoining wood are walks and benches in all directions, 
 In the opp. direction, 3 M. to the E. of Arnheim, lies thy 
 flourishing village of Via the hills near 
 with elegant country residences and pleasure-grounds. 
 
 To the 1. the Yssel diverges to the N. and flows into the 
 Zuider Zee. To the r. Huissen. | 
 
 Haus Loo, or Candia, an old castle; then the village | 
 Pannerden. 
 
 Near the village, of Mllingen a small gun-boat, moored i 
 the middle of the stream, indicates the vicinity of the frontier} 
 
 1. Lobith, the last Dutch village; opp. to it lies the e8 | 
 frontier of Schenkenschanz, formerly considered the key of the 
 Netherlands, and once situated at the bifurcation (now lowell 
 down) of the Waal and the Rhine. Near this spot Louis XIV) 
 crossed the river, at that time nearly dry in consequence 0} 
 the unusual heat, June 12th, 1672, with a large army, for the 
 purpose of conquering Holland. On this occasion the Prineé 
 of Condé was wounded. As Emmerich is approached, thé 
 wooded heights on which the town of Cleve (p. 17 and 39) ig 
 situated, are perceived to the r. 
 
 ]. Emmerich (Holldndischer Hof), the frontier town 6) 
 Prussia, clean, and possessing as many Dutch as Germai 
 features. The Munster church, at the lower extremity of the 
 town, is in the transition style of the 11th—12th cent 
 
 ) 
 
fo Diisseldorf. XANTEN. 5. Route. 17 
 
 | (Railway by Arnheim and Utrecht to Amsterdam in 4 hrs.; 
 ‘fares 3 Thir. 161/,, 2 Thir. 20, or 1 Thir. 231/, Sgr.) 
 
 r. Grieth. 
 
 | 1. Rees, once strongly fortified. 
 
 r. Xanten (Ingenlath), 21/, M. from the Rhine, is a town 
 (of great antiquity, and was the Castra vetera and Colonia 
 | Ulpia of the Romans, the head-quarters of the 30th (Ulpia 
 \wictriz), the 18th, and 19th Legions, which were destroyed in 
 ithe battle of the Teutoburgian wood. Here too stood the 
 castle of the Nibelungen, and here Siegfried the dragon-slayer 
 (p. 49) was born. On the Furstenberg, an eminence in the 
 |Vicinity, was situated the Pretorium of Quintilius Varus. 
 (The * Collegiate church of St. Victor, erected in 1213—1522, 
 ‘is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. The choir, locked 
 by a fine copper gate, is worthy of attention; the cloisters contain 
 several tombstones valuable in the history of art. 
 
 The traveller descending the river who wishes to proceed direct to Cleve 
 ) should here leave the steamboat and take a carriage (1'/ Thlr.) to Calear, 
 the Gothic church of which contains a remarkably fine altar-piece by Johann 
 ‘of Calear, and below it some admirably carved wood-work. Calcar was the 
 }birth-place of the celebrated Prussian General von Seydlitz (d. 1773), the 
 ;conqueror at the battle of Rossbach, A handsome monument to this hero 
 | stands in the market-place. 
 
 1. Wesel (* Dornbusch), a strongly fortified town, with a 
 ‘population of 13,000 (7000 Rom. Cath.), is situated at the con- 
 fluence of the Rhine and Lippe. The Rathhaus, or Town-hall, 
 is a handsome building, and dates from 1396. St. Willibrord’s 
 church contains a marble tablet which records that Peregrine 
 Bertie, son of Willoughby d’Eresby and Catharine, Duchess 
 of Suffolk, was born here in 1555. The exiles, who were 
 Protestants, and had fled from the persecutions of Queen Mary, 
 Were permitted by the magistrates of Wesel, as no other re- 
 sidence could be found, to take up their quarters in the 
 church, which was then unoccupied. — The boat then passes 
 through the bridge which connects the Island of Buderich 
 ie Fort Blicher, the téte-de-pont of Wesel on the r. 
 
 . Orsoy, formerly fortified and frequently besieged. 
 
 1 Ruhrort (p. 12), at the influx of the Ruhr, “where the 
 boats of the Netherlands Co. only touch. 
 
 r. Homberg (p. 12), terminus of the Aix-la-Chapelle line, 
 Where the Diisseldorf Co.’s boats touch. . 
 
 r. Uerdingen (p. 12), whence the church-tower of Duisburg 
 (p. 20) is visible rising from the plain. 
 
 1, Kaiserswerth (p. 19). The walls and bow-windows of 
 an old castle of the Hohenstaufen are visible from the river. 
 
 1. Dusseldorf. 
 
 Bagwpexonr’s Rhine. 2 
 
6G. Disseldorf. 
 
 Hotels. Prince of Prussia, Prinee Frederick and Enurepean | 
 Hietel, near the station. *Breidenbacher Hof, Drei Reichskro-| 
 
 nen and Hétel Domhardt, in the town; charges: R. 15, B. 8, D. 20 Sgr, 
 
 — *Kolner Hof; *Kémischer Kaiser, a good second-class honse (K. | 
 
 and Bb. 20, good table @hdéte 17 Ser.) 
 
 Cafés. Geisler, in the Mittelstrasse and on the Ananasberg in the. 
 Hofgarten; Jungius,' Burgplatz 11, good supply of newspapers.. The: 
 
 summer-theatre and the Harmonic Hall, where the musical festivals are held 
 
 once a year, as well as ‘‘Geisler’s Garden” (refreshments), now belong te | 
 
 the town. 
 
 Restaurants. Railway refreshment room at the Cologne-Minden 
 station; *Stelzmann, opp. to the station; *Seulen, *Drevermann 
 and Germer in the Carlsplatz. Railway refreshment room at thé 
 Elberfeld station. 
 
 Exhibition of art,in the Alleestrasse, 781; admission 5 Ser. 
 
 Carriages. For a drive in the down 5 Ser., !/, hr. 10, 1. hr. 15 Sey. 
 
 English Church Service performed by a resident chaplain in the smaller | 
 
 Protestant Church, Bergerstrasse. 
 
 Diisseldorf (46,849 inhab., of whom 8604 are Prot., and) 
 600 Jews) is a handsome and regularly-built town of com-) 
 paratively modern origin. It was chosen at the commencement. 
 
 of the 15th cent. as a residence by the Dukes of Berg, and | 
 on their becoming extinct in 1609, it, continued to be. the) 
 residence of the princes of the Palatinate till 1716, when | 
 
 they transferred their seat to Mannheim and afterwards to | 
 Munich. Under Joachim Murat (1806—8), and Napoleon 
 
 (1808—138), Dusseldorf continued. to be the capital town of: 
 
 the Duchy of Berg; in 1815 it became subject to the crown | 
 
 of Prussia. 
 
 Dusseldorf may be called the Rhenish cradle of art; its | 
 Academy of Art (P1. 2) conducted (1822—26) by Cornelius, | 
 up to 1860 by Schadow (d. 1861) and subsequently by Bende-| 
 
 mann, enjoys a widely extended celebrity. It is situated in 
 one of the wings of the Electoral palace, rebuilt since its 
 almost total destruction by the French in 1794. 
 
 All the valuable pictures of the once so celebrated Dissel- 
 
 dorf Gallery, founded at the beginning of the 18th cent. were; | 
 during the unsettled times of 1805, taken to Munich by Max. | 
 
 Joseph, king of Bavaria, under the pretext of ensuring their 
 safety. The town has since then been unable to recover 
 
 them, and they form to this day the most valuable part of | 
 
 the collection in the old Pinakothek. 
 
 The Gallery now contains a yaluable collection of upwards of 14,000 
 original sketches and drawings by tbe most celebrated artists of all schools, 
 and 248 water-colour copies of Italian masters by Ramboua, affording a good 
 survey of Italian art from the 14th to the 16th cent. It also contains a few 
 good pictures.b; : 
 
 The * Town-Collection (admission 5 Sgr., open from 9 to 6 0” clock) 
 in the r. wing of the Academy, recently commenced, contains.some finé 
 modern pictures. 
 
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 The palace contains a Library of some value; in the 
 court is a marble statue of the Elector Johann Wilhelm, who 
 was born in Disseldorf (d. 1716). An * Equestrian statue 
 of the same elector stands in the market-place. 
 
 The churches of Disseldorf present few features of archi- 
 tectural interest. That of St. Andreas (PI. 9) contains 
 several good modern pictures, and in a separate hall of the 
 choir the embalmed remains of several electors, princes, and 
 princesses of the place. St. Lambertus (Pl. 15) belongs to 
 the transition style of the 14th cent., and contains a marble 
 monument to the last two dukes of Cleves and Berg, erected 
 in 1629. On one of the N. pillars is the tombstone of the 
 celebrated chancellor Melchior Voetz (Voetius) (d. 1675). 
 
 The handsome new Post-office buildings, near the railway 
 stations, are erected in the Florentine palatial style; the black 
 marble pillars which support the steps were brought from the 
 Neanderthal (p. 20). 
 
 The *Hofgarten (PI. 11) is tastefully laid out, and affords 
 most delightful walks. Near the entrance is situated a large 
 hot-house for tropical plants (Victoria-Regia-Haus); near it a 
 black marble pillar with bust of Queen Stephanie of Portugal, 
 a princess of Hohenzollern (d. 1860). — The Jagerhof is 
 fitted up as a princely residence, and was till 1848 seat of 
 Prince Frederick of Prussia; since 1850 it has been occupied 
 by the Prince of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen. — The adjoining 
 Jacobi’s Garden was once the property of the eminent phi- 
 losopher Fred. Henry Jacobi (d. 1819), and a favourite resort 
 of many of the greatest men of the day, of Goethe and Herder 
 among others. It now belongs to a society of artists, and Is 
 the central point of their social life. 
 
 In the vicinity of Disseldorf there are several excellent 
 Protestant institutions of various kinds. Diisselthal, formerly 
 a Trappist monastery, situated near the Cologne and Minden 
 line, a little to the N. of the town, is now converted into a 
 Protestant establishment for homeless children, 180-—200 of 
 whom are here educated. Connected with the institution is 
 a seminary for teachers of the poor. 
 
 The ancient town of Kaiserswerth (Pfdlzer Hof), 11, M. 
 W. from the Calcum station, which the train from Dusseldorf 
 reaches in 20 min., is the seat of similar charitable institutions 
 on a much greater scale than those above mentioned. They 
 were founded by the Protestant pastor Fledner in 1836, and 
 comprise a hospital (500—600 patients), a training school for 
 Protestant Sisters of Charity, Governesses’ institution, orphan 
 asylum, female Reformatory, and establishment for the cure 
 of female lunatics, 
 
 ) * 
 
 a 
 
20 Route 7. DUISBURG. 
 
 The old Church of Kaiserswerth, in the Romanesque style, 
 
 erected in the 12th—1dth cent., contains an admirably exe- 
 cuted Shrine of the 13th cent., in which the relics of S¢. Suit- 
 bertus, who first preached the Gospel here in 710, are preserved. 
 
 Of the ancient palace in which the Emperor Henry IV. once | 
 resided nothing is now left but a few fragments, called the | 
 
 “Konigsburg”’. 
 
 In the wood to the |. of the station of Grossenbaum is | 
 the Castle of Heltorf, property of Count Spee, which contains 
 various treasures of art, among which may be mentioned some : 
 
 * frescoes of the older Disseldorf school. 
 
 Duisburg (Rheinischer Hof), the next station, is also a 
 very ancient town, fortified by Charlemagne, from 1145—1201 | 
 Imperial town, then a member of the Hanseatic league, and 
 till 1818 seat of a university founded in 1655. The Salvator- | 
 kirche is a handsome Gothic edifice of the 15th century. 
 Population 14,000 (Rom, Cath. 5000). The Rhenish- West- | 
 
 phalian Institution for Deacons, whose duty is to assist the 
 clergy in attendance on the sick, convicts, &c., connected 
 vith a hospital, school for homeless boys, and Reformatory 
 
 (the latter at Lintorf, 6 M. distant), is a Protestant establish-— 
 
 ment, and has a widely-extended sphere of utility. 
 
 7%. From Dusseldorf to Dortmund by 
 Elberfeld. 
 Comp. Map R. 4. 
 By Railway in 3—4 hrs.; fares: 72, 53, or 35 Sgr. (comp, p. 23). The 
 
 district traversed is picturesque and’ industrial; the grand construction of | 
 
 the line itself is an object of: interest. Views to the 1, 
 
 The station is by the “Prince of Prussia” hotel (p. 18). : 
 
 From the convent of Gerresheim (first station, fine church 
 of the 12th cent.), the Archbishop Gebhard of Cologne 
 (d. 1601) abducted the beautiful Countess Agnes of Mansfeld. 
 After passing Erkrath (hydropathic estab.), the train ascends 
 a steep acclivity to Hochdahl (large iron-foundry of Ein- 
 tracht), which lies 480 ft. higher than Diisseldorf. 
 
 One mile to the l. of Hochdahl is situated the romantic Neanderthal 
 (* Steineshof; Holthdfer), a narrow wooded ravine through which the Diissel 
 flows. The valley contains several limestone caverns, the largest of which, 
 90 ft. long, 40 ft. broad, and 16 ft. high, was a favorite resort of the eminent 
 Protestant preacher and poet Joachim Neander, who lived at Diisseldorf 
 from 1640 to 1660, and from whom the valley derives its name. This cavern 
 is best visited from the Steineshof, from which it is 3/, M. distant. The 
 quarries of the valley yield black and grey marble, which is cut into monu- 
 ments, vases, &c. 
 
 At Vohwinkel (stat. for Grdfrath and Solingen) is the 
 junction of the Prince William line (Steele-Vohwinkel) , prin- 
 cipally used for the coal-traffic of the Ruhr. 
 
ELBERFELD. 7. Route. 21 
 
 The * Prince William Railway traverses the mountains which form the boun- 
 dary between the Wupper and the Ruhr, then continues along the narrow 
 winding valley of the Detle, and at Dilldorf enters the broad and picturesque 
 valley of the Ruhr, which affords a most striking contrast to the ravine of the 
 Deile. At the small town of Steele (Badenberg) the Priuce William line 
 unites with the “‘Bergisch-Markisch”, which now affords direct communi- 
 cation between Dortmund, Bochum, Steele, Essen, Miuhiheim and Duisburg. 
 
 At Sonnborn the train suddenly enters the valley of the 
 Wupper, which it traverses, and then skirts the hillside, com- 
 manding a view of Elberfeld in the valley below. 
 
 Elberfeld (* Curpfdlzer Hof; * Weidenhof, near the Dép- 
 persherg stat.; Mainzer Hof; Post), with a pop. of 54,000 
 (12,000 Rom. Cath.), and the adjoining town of Barmen 
 (Clever Hof’), with 45,000, form together a series of streets 
 of nearly 6. M. in length, intersected by the road, the railway, 
 and the Wupper, which is the principal source of the industry 
 of this flourishing manufacturing district. With the exception 
 of some English towns, there is probably no spot in the 
 world which is so densely populated. Its principal manu- 
 factures are cotton, silk, ribbon, and turkey-red dyed goods. 
 Some of the churches are handsome structures, but are all, 
 jike the towns themselves, of very modern date. 
 | One point in Elberfeld well deserves to be visited by the lovers of the 
 | picturesque — the *Elisenhéhe, situated in the Haardt, or so called “Eng- 
 lish Grounds,” which contain a statue of St. Suitbertus, an Englishman who 
 | first propagated Christianity in this district (d, at Kaiserswerth in 713). 
 The summit of the tower commands a most magnificent and peculiar view of 
 | the whole valley of the Wupper, crowded with its numerous factories, hand- 
 | some private residences, and other buildings, 
 
 The train next stops at the station of Barmen (see above), 
 and Rittershausen. At the latter the line crosses the 
 Wupper, leaves the Duchy of Berg, and enters the Grafschaft 
 Mark. The next station is Schwelm (Hotel Rosenkranz; Prinz 
 | von Preussen), Y, hr. distant from Elberfeld by railway. 
 | Not far from the Schwelmer Brunnen, a mineral spring 
 }now seldom resorted to by invalids, begins a long and deep 
 railway cutting, where numerous fossils are found; on emerg- 
 ing from it at Milspe a most striking view is obtained of 
 the valley of the Ennepe. (About 1 M. up the valley from 
 the station is situated the Alutert, a large stalactite cavern.) 
 
 At Gevelsberg, a long straggling village on the Schwelm road, Count 
 Frederick of Isenburg slew his cousin Engelbert, Archbishop of Cologne, 
 on his return from the Diet of knights at Soest, before which he had sum- 
 moned the Count to answer for his misconduct with regard to the Abbeys of 
 
 Essen and Werden, The Count was condemned to death, and, when he was 
 apprehended a year later, broken on the wheel at Cologne, 
 
 The valley of the Lnnepe is also noted as a manufacturing 
 district, and contains numerous iron-hammers and foundries, 
 especially at the station of Haspe. 
 
 Hagen (Deutsches Haus; Liinenschloss), another manu- 
 facturing town, lies */, M. from the station. (Railway from 
 
22 Route 7. DORTMUND. 
 
 Hagen to Siegen, or Ruhr-Sieg line, see p. 41). Soon after 
 passing it, the train crosses the Volme, and a second time at 
 Herdecke. The view to the N. W. is here bounded by the 
 Ardey mountains which descend precipitously into the valley 
 of the Ruhr. 
 
 On one of these mountains, 4'/, M. from Herdecke, rise the ruins of 
 ** Hohen-Syburg, once the fortress of Wittekind, the last Duke of Saxony, 
 who for 32 years fought against Christianity and the Franconian power, till 
 he was conquered and compelled to submit to the rite of baptism by Charle- 
 magne in 775. The ceremony, so says the tradition, was performed by Pope 
 Leo himself in the presence of the emperor, who became godfather to the 
 heathen duke. The font still exists and the effigies of the emperor and 
 Pope are still distinguishable above the door.- The small church-is incon- 
 testibly one of the oldest in Germany. View very fine. *Inn near the ruin. 
 At the foot of the hill the ZLenne falls into the Ruhr, 
 
 The train now skirts the Kaiserberg, where Charlemagne 
 is said once to have had a camp. On an eminence of the 
 r. bank of the Ruhr the picturesque village of Wetter, with 
 a ruined castle, comes in view. On the opposite (1.) side, 
 lies the picturesque village of Volmarstein (* Wehberg),- with 
 an old castle commanding a magnificent prospect, a spot much 
 frequented by visitors from the neighbourhood. The train now 
 crosses and follows the course of the Ruhr, and soon reaches 
 the long straggling manufacturing and colliery-town of Wit- 
 ten (ldotel Grafe; * Glitz, on the 1. bank, opp. to the town). 
 The background of the picturesque landscape is formed by 
 the castle of Steinhausen, situated on a wooded eminence. 
 Farther down the valley are the ruins of the castle of Har- 
 denstein, in ancient times a seat of Wittekind (see above). 
 
 The finest point of the valley of the Ruhr is at the small town of Blan- 
 kenstein (orstmann), 6 M. from Witten. *Gethmann’s Garten, situated 
 here, commands a noble prospect of the valley, and is much resorted to by 
 lovers of the picturesque from the neighbouring towns. From Blankenstein 
 
 the traveller may proceed on foot by Hattingen to Nierenhof (4'/, M.), a 
 station on the Steele and Vohwinkel line. 
 
 The tract of country from this point to the mouth of the 
 Ruhr at Ruhrort (p. 12) is one of the principal colliery 
 districts in Prussia, and yields considerably more than one 
 third of the coal consumed in the kingdom. 
 
 Dortmund (Romischer Kaiser, in the town; Bellevue, at 
 the station; pop. 22,098, 14, Rom. Cath.), which is reached 
 in 25 min. more, one of the most important stations on the 
 Cologne and Minden line, was once an imperial town and 
 member of the Hanseatic league, and was governed by its 
 own counts. Some of the churches are the only buildings 
 which still bear testimony to the antiquity of the place. The 
 choir (1421-50) of the church of St. Reinoldi contains old 
 stained-glass windows, on some of the panes of which is 
 represented the Imperial eagle in the Westphalian colours 
 (green, black, and white). The altar is decorated with an old 
 
ESSEN., 8. Route. 23 
 
 ¢arved-wood Crucifixion, with the 12 Apostles; choir-stalls 
 ‘in the late Gothic style of the L5th cent., pulpit, rich “renais- 
 ‘sance” style. The lofty and elegant *Marienkirche, nave 
 Romanesque, choir Gothic, contains a picture, representing the 
 Adoration of the Magi, painted at the commencement of the 
 15th cent. by a master of the Westphalian schoo], a branch 
 
 Sef that. of Cologne. The Gothie Dominican Church (choir 
 | 1355) also contains an altar-piece by a master of the same 
 
 school, painted in 1508. The carved stone shrine near the 
 
 Jhigh-altar also deserves inspection. 
 
 In the history of the middle ages Dortmund is a place of great ‘im- 
 portance. When, on the fall of Henry the Lion (1182), a complete state of 
 anarchy and lawlessness prevailed throughout the whole of Germany, the 
 
 ) celebrated Vehmegericht, or Secret Tribunal, was formed in Westphalia, and, 
 
 in the 14th and 15th centuries, had extended its sway over the whole empire. 
 The number of the initiated, who were bound by the most. fearful oaths to 
 execute the decrees of the tribunal, is said to have exceeded 100,000. In 
 Westphalia alone was the Kreigraf, or president of the society, privileged 
 to hold meetings for the purpose of receiving new members. Dortmund was 
 
 | the seat of the highest court, and here, in the ‘‘Kdénigshof under the linden- 
 ) trees”, the Emperor Sigismund was himself initiated in the year 1429. Lat- 
 | terly, however, the tribunal degenerated to little more than a common police- 
 
 | court, before which the inhabitants of Dortmund and the vicinity carried 
 their grievances. ‘The last session held by this society here took place 
 in 1805. 
 
 One of the lime-trees in the Konigshof at Dortmund still 
 ‘exists, and is believed to be upwards of 400 years old. It 
 stands on a slight eminence to the W. of the station. 
 
 8. From Dortmund to Disseldorf by 
 Oberhausen. 
 
 Comp. Map R. 4. 
 
 By the Cologne and Minden line in 2%/, hys.; fares: 64, 43, or 
 
 5 32 Ser. 
 
 The journey from Dortmund to Diisseldorf by this route is 
 less interesting than that above described. The country tra- 
 versed is one of those flat agricultural tracts so characteristic of 
 
 /many parts of Germany, and described by Tacitus, Germania 16. 
 
 The principal place of interest on this line is Essen 
 
 (Schmidt; Sauer; Berghaus; pop. 17,054, Prot. 6000), 17/, M. 
 
 from the station, one of the most ancient towns in the 
 district, and till 1802 a free Imperial town. The * Ihinster- 
 kirche (with octagonal choir of the 10th cent.), founded by 
 
 ‘the Emperor Otto III., contains a curigus old brazen chan- 
 | delier, presented in 998 by the Abbess Mechtildis, sister of 
 
 Otto I1]., and, among other treasures, four golden crosses, 
 richly decorated with precious stones, presented in 974 by 
 the Abbess Alhaidis, daughter of Otto IL, and a MS, of the 
 Gospels, with a covering of gold and carved ivory, a gift 
 
94 Route 9. OBERHAUSEN. 
 
 of the Abbess Theophanu (d. 1060). The Cloisters, as well 
 as a fine altar-piece of 1522 by de Bruyn, were restored in 
 1850. Essen is the central point of this extensive colliery 
 district, and is surrounded by innumerable foundries and 
 manufactories. Of these Arupp’s Cast Steel Works deserve 
 especial mention; the products of this vast estab. (portions of 
 machinery, steel cannons, etc.) have acquired a European re- 
 putation. To the S. of the town, at the Kettwiger Thor, is 
 situated the station of the Witten-Duisburg-Oberhausen railway. 
 
 The small and picturesquely situated town of Werden on the Ruhr was 
 once the seat of a very ancient Benedictine Abbey, where the ‘‘Codex ar- 
 genteus,” a translation of the Gospels made in the 4th cent. by order of the 
 Gothic Bishop Ulfilas, a most valuable specimen of the ancient German 
 language, was formerly preserved. It fell into the hands of the Swedes in 
 the 30 years’ war, and is now deposited at the university of Upsala. The 
 * Church deserves particular inspection, especially the beautiful portal on 
 the N. side. The crypt (1059) contains the stone sarcophagus of St. Ludgerus: 
 (d. 809), the first bishop of Munster. 
 
 Near Oberhausen (*Railway refreshment-room) is one 
 of the most extensive foundries in this district, which employs 
 1600 men and contains 8 different steam-engines. The land 
 
 is poor and sterile, but its richness in coal renders it-in ~ 
 
 many places worth 700—80O/. per acre. 
 Oberhausen is the most animated station on the line, and 
 is daily passed by about 80 trains. 
 
 9. From Disseldorf to Cologne. 
 Comp. Map R. 4. 
 
 By the Cologne and Minden Railway in I'/ hr.; fares: 30, 20, and 
 
 15 Sgr. The express trains stop at the Central station at Cologne, the ordin- 
 ary at Deutz (p. 38). — By steamboat in 5 hrs, (down in 2'/, hrs,). 
 Conveyances see p. 18. 
 
 Beyond stat. Benrath stands a handsome royal Pulace 
 among the trees to the l., erected in 1756—60 by the Elector 
 Palatine Charles as a residence for his widow. Beyond stat. 
 Langenfeld the line crosses the Wupper (p. 21), passes close 
 by the castle of Reuschenberg (to the 1.), and at stat. Kiipper- 
 steg crosses the Duhn. The river is approached at Mil- 
 heim, a wealthy, manufacturing town, which owes its pros- 
 perity to the Prot. citizens who emigrated from Cologne at 
 the beginning of the I7th cent. Below the town, on the 
 Rhine, lies Schloss Stammheim, a seat of Count Furstenberg, 
 containing an extensive collection of engravings and pertraits. 
 
 The steamboat-journey from Disseldorf to Cologne in 
 somewhat tedious; the Rhine here presents no features of 
 natural beauty, though some of the places on its banks possess 
 an historical interest. 
 
A ir 
 [ 1 Mlerheiligen Capelle. 
 3 Baknhof Central Pers.) 
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| 10. Cologne. 
 
 Hotels. On the Rhine: *H6tel de Hoilande (PI. d.), R.16, L. 6, B. 10, 
 'D. 20, A. 6Sgr.; Royal Hotel (Pl. f); *Hétel de Cologne (Pl. e), R. 
 Sand B. 23, D.17, A. 7'/, Sgr. — Near the Rhine: *Hétel de Russie (Pl. g), 
 'No. 4. Fried. Wilhelm Strasse; Victoria Hotel, in the Heumarkt. — Jn 
 Nthe town: Hétel Disch (Pl. a); *Hdtel de Mayence (Pl. b); *Hétel 
 de Vienne (PI. ¢), all three near the post-office; in the two latter excellent 
 tables d’hote (20 Sgr.); *Hétel du Nord (Pl. h), near the railway bridge. 
 i— Second-class houses: *HOtel Ernst and *Hétel Kleff, R. and B. 20, 
 D. inc. W. 18 Sgr., both near to the central station; *Héotel de Paris 
 (Pl. k) Drususgasse 3, R. and B. 20, D. inc. W. 19 Sgr.; *Laacher Hof 
 (Pi. i), Near the Neumarkt, in the W. part of the town; *Hétel du Déme, 
 ‘Domhof 7, D. 17 Sgr. — In Deutz (1st Cl.) *Bellevue (Pl. n), and *Prinz 
 Sarl (Pl. o), R. 16,.L..5, B.8, A. 6 Sgr.s Hotel Fuchs. 
 
 Restaurants. Hoétel de Cologne; Gertrudenhof; *Lenz, Sand- 
 bahn No.1; *Wanscheidt, in the Salomonsgasse; at the two latter beer 
 "may be procured, viands moderate; *Gurzenich Restaurant (entrance 
 \from the Martinsstrasse); “Kolner Banket- Haus” in the Schildergasse. 
 »*Refreshment-room at the central station. 
 
 Cafés and Confectioners. *Café du Dédme; St. Paul, nearest to the 
 ieentral-station; Kobell, in the Schildergasse. — Mosler (best confectioner), 
 |Oben-Marspforten; Reichard (good ices), Hochstrasse; Bérse, in the 
 Heumarkt, well supplied with newspapers. 
 
 Oysters and Delicacies. Bettger and Co., kleine Budengasse 6 (PI. r); 
 room fitted up in the Moorish style. 
 
 Public Resorts. The gardens of the hotels at Deutz, which command a 
 fine view of Cologne, and where a military band plays on summer evenings. 
 ‘The bridge of boats is a favorite promenade. The Bayenhaus on the Rhine, 
 at the S. extrem. of the town, Zoological Garden (p. 37), Bruhi 
 {see KR. 36). 
 
 Theatre in the Comédienstrasse, representations daily. Summer-thea- 
 lire (Victoria-theatre), 5—8 p.m., at the Thurmchen (see above); 
 janother at the Kénigshalle (see above), 
 
 Concerts once a fortnight in winter in the Giirzenich, Cologne is the 
 )seat of the Rhenish School of Music. 
 
 *Diorama (P1. 8), Wolfsgasse 5, near the Neumarkt (p. 34). Admission 
 15 or 10 Sgr, The second places are scarcely inferior to the first. 
 
 Zoological Garden, */, M. below the town nearly opposite to Milheim ; 
 ‘grounds tastefolly laid out, valuable collection of animals; adm. 10 Sgr, 
 Adjacent to it is the Botanical Gurden of the ‘‘Flora” company. 
 
 Military music daily at 11'/ (Sundays at 12) in the Neumarkt. 
 
 Baths. Warm at Siegen’s, in the Schildergasse; in the floating bath- 
 establishment, entrance from the bridge. Cold in the Rhine, below the 
 Trankgasse, to the rear of the Rheinau, aud at the Bayenthurm; on the r, 
 bank below the garden of the ‘‘Bellevue” in Deutz, near which is also the 
 iSwimming-bath, 5 Sgr. 
 
 Railway Stations. ‘The trains to Bingen, Aix-la- Chapelle and Crefeld, 
 and the express trains of the Cologne and Minden line (R. 8), start from 
 the Centralstation (N. from the Cathedral), ordinary trains on the 
 Cologne and Minden, or Giessen line (R. 52) start from Deutz. 
 
 Steamboats, see Introd. Small steamers ply continually to Mulheim 
 2Sgr.), starting from the bridge of boats. 
 
 Carriages. 1—2 pers. 5, 3 pers. 7'/,, 4 pers. 10 Sgr. for each drive within 
 the town or to the stations. ‘Yo Deutz at the same charges, with the addition 
 of 6 Sgr. for bridge-toll. By time. For }/, hr. 1—2 pers. 7'/, 3—4 pers. 
 10 Sgr. For waiting, 2'/, Sgr. for every ten min. Before 7 a.m. and after 
 10. p.wn. 5-Sgr, more than the above fares is charged. 
 
Porterage from the steamboat to the carriage for 1—2 
 for each additional package 6 Pf. 
 gage not exceeding ¢ 
 
 COLOGNE. 
 
 PRoute 
 
 packages 1 Sgr., | 
 For a hand-cart into the town, with lug- | 
 
 Eau de Cologne. The best may be procured at one of the firms Farina, 
 opp. to the Julichsplatz, Hochstrasse 129, &c., and at Zanoli’s, in the same 
 
 street. 
 
 Painted porcelain vases, fruit-baskets, &c., in the Drususeasse, opposite 
 
 the new Museum. 
 
 English Church Service performed by a resident chaplain at No, $ 
 
 Rheingasse. 
 
 Plan where time is limited: Cathedral, interior, and walk round the | 
 
 external choir - gallery 
 
 St. Gereon (exterior and interior, p. 33, | 
 
 Pl. 36); Church of the Apostles (exterior, p. 33, Pl. 30); St. Maria im Ca- | 
 
 pttol (interior, 
 Town-hall (p. 
 Two days. 
 
 * Museum 
 
 39, Pl. 26); Museum (p. 36, 
 churches from 7 to 10 a.m. 
 afternoon the 
 
 above - mentioned 
 (p. 36), and Diorama 
 
 34, Pl. 40); Gurzenich (p. 35, Pl. 15); Facade of the 
 Pl. 45), tron bridge (p. 37). 
 
 The 
 
 * Cathedrai, the Archiepiscopal Museum, walk along the Rhine and on the | 
 
 bridge, evening 
 
 in the hotel-gardens at- Deutz (p. 38). The 
 
 principal | 
 
 ehurches &c. may be most conveniently visited in the following order: 
 cursory glance at the Cathedral (p. 28, Pl. 9); St. Cunibert (p. 32, Pl. 33); * St. | 
 
 Ursula (p. 4 
 
 Pl. 49); Jesuits? (p. 32, Pl: 20); St. Andreas (p. 32, P1.29)9 
 
 through the Comédienstrasse (1. Courts of law, Pl. 21; 1. Arsenal, Pl. 54; 
 
 r. Government buildings, Pl. 27; 1. 
 36); * Apostles’ p. 
 (Pl. 44); cross the Neumarkt (1. 
 
 (pads, PI, 
 
 Romans’ tower, p. 33); *St. Gereon 
 new Mauritius Church | 
 the horses’ heads, p. 34), past the Hospital 
 
 (p. 34, Pl. 4), to St. Peter's (p. 34, Pl. 47); leaving the latter by the S. | 
 door in the Sternengasse, past Rubens’ house (p. 34, Pl. 19), to * St. Marien | 
 (p. 34, Pl. 40); leave the latter by the N. door in the Lichhof, proceed to | 
 the * Gtrzenich (p. 35, Pl. 15); Town-hall (p. 35, Pl. 26); * St. Martin | 
 {p. 36, Pl. 38); Minoritenkirche and the adjacent * Museen (p. 36). | 
 
 The names of the streets leading to the Rhine (W. to E.) are painted | 
 
 red, of those parallel to the Rhine (N. to S.) black. 
 Glockengasse 30, — 
 
 General post-office (Pl. 24), Glockengasse 25—27, — | 
 Telegraph-office, at the Central station.] 
 
 [ Police -station 
 Cacilienstrasse 4. 
 
 bank (Pl. 2), | 
 
 Cologne owes its foundation to the Ubii, who when hard | 
 pressed by the Suevi, removed their capital town from the | 
 r. bank of the Rhine to the 1., to the spot which the present 
 
 city of Cologne occupies. 
 
 Here, A.D. 50, Agrippina, the | 
 
 daughter of Germanicus, and mother of Nero, founded a co- | 
 Jony of Roman veterans, which was called Colonia Agrippi- | 
 
 nensis, and afterwards Colonia Claudia Agrippina. 
 
 The new 
 
 settlement soon became the capital town of Lower Germany. 
 In 3808 Constantine the Great commenced to construct a stone 
 
 bridge over the Rhine, 
 
 which connected Marspforten with | 
 
 what was then the island of St. Martin, and thence crossed | 
 to Deutz; the remnants of the pillars may still be seen when 
 
 the river is very low. 
 
 The present Rathhaus, or Town-hall, 
 
 is believed to occupy the site of the Pretorium of the Roman | 
 colony; from here the old Roman wall extended towards the | 
 Gurzenich (Merchants’ Hall), and beyond it to the church of | 
 St. Maria im Capitol, past which the Rhine is said formerly | 
 to have flowed, and to have surrounded the present Alten- | 
 markt, at that time an island. The above-mentioned bridge | 
 
Gistory. COLOGNE. 10. Route. 27 
 
 jormed a continuation of the present streets ‘auf der Bracke” 
 Ind “oben Marspforten”; it was, however, destroyed at the 
 ‘me of the Norman invasion, and in 960 taken to pieces by 
 Irder of the Archbishop Bruno, who also caused the L arm 
 'f the Rhine to be filled up. 
 
 In the middle ages (12th—L5th cent.) Cologne was a 
 jiost flourishing commercial town. In 1201 it became incor- 
 ‘orated in the Hanseatic league, and as such had its principal 
 epot at the Guildhall of London. In 1212 it became a free 
 ywn of the empire. Subsequently the archbishops, who were 
 jontinually at variance with the citizens, endeavoured to assert 
 jneir authority over them, but were repeatedly thwarted; the 
 ity maintained its freedom, so that the archbishop Engelbert 
 jras compelled in 1262 to transfer his residence to Bruhl, 
 Ind afterwards to Bonn. Fends between the nobles and 
 the burghers, which occasioned the expulsion of a whole 
 penta of weavers in 1370, who migrated to Aix-la- 
 Jhapelle and Eupen, and of the Protestants in 1608, who 
 jettled at Crefeld, Elberfeld, Diisseldorf, and Mulheim, proved 
 hery prejudicial to the prosperity ot the city. Cologne, how- 
 yer, still held its rank as the first Rhenish town, and was 
 laoreover celebrated as a cradle of the fine arts. Some of 
 he pictures of the Cologne school are to be scen at the 
 Jathedral (p. 29) and the Museum (p. 36), whilst others are 
 weserved at the old Pinakothek at Munich, to which they 
 vere taken by the well known picture-collectors Boisserée at 
 he time of the French Revolution. ‘The only names of cele- 
 wity which have come down to our time are those of Meister 
 Wilhelm (1380) and Meister Stephan (1410). The town like- 
 vise boasted of a university, founded in 1388, and celebrated 
 is a philosophical and theological school. In later ages, 
 iowever, it lost its importance, and was finally abolished 
 iubout the close of the last century. 
 
 Until the occupation of the town by the French in 1794, 
 Yologne had maintained its privileges as a free Imperial city, 
 out had lost much of its ancient splendour and prosperity. 
 By the peace of Campo Formio in 1797 it became subject to 
 france, and was a town of the Roer Department, the capital 
 xf which was Aix-la-Chapelle. In 1802 its monasteries and 
 sther ecclesiastical establishments were secularized, and de- 
 ‘slared national property. On Jan. 14th, 1814, the Russians 
 ‘ook possession of the place, and when, shortly afterwards, 
 the town became Prussian, it began to recover its former 
 |mportance. Since then it has rapidly increased in size and 
 affluence, and the energy and and public spirit of its citi- 
 zens have rendered it one of the most considerable commer - 
 
98 Route 10. COLOGNE. Cathedral 
 
 cial cities in Germany. The completion of the railway bridge) 
 in 1859, one of the most massive structures. by which the! 
 Rhine is crossed, has given an additional importance to the 
 place. 
 
 The population of Cologne is 113,081 (12,338 Prot., 2990 
 Jews), and the garrison consists of 4813 soldiers; Deutz has 
 0739 inhabitants and a garrison of 1719. The majority of! 
 the streets are narrow and gloomy, and the 34 public squaresg| 
 are planted with trees. The kitchen-gardens and vineyards, | 
 which formerly occupied more than one quarter of the area’ 
 of the town, are rapidly giving place to new streets and build-| 
 ings. Before the first revolution Cologne, once dignified} 
 with the name of “holy”, contained upwards of 200 places 
 of worship and ecclesiastical establishments; the number of| 
 churches is now 25, two of which are Protestant. 
 
 The **Cathedral?, or Dom, the grand point of attraction, 
 justly excites the admiration and wonder of every beholder,) 
 whilstits still unfinished con-| 
 dition is suggestive of the| 
 abortiveness of human de-|| 
 signs. The master- mind 
 which planned this noble| 
 pile is unknown, and the| 
 original designs, the off-| 
 springs of his fertile brain, | 
 are for ever lost; could | 
 7p. dis dreams have been rea- 
 7 \ized, there is no doubt,} 
 D that,-as now it is the most | 
 7 beautiful fragment in ex-| 
 77, istence, so it would have | 
 “2 been’ in its completion the 
 
 most magnificent and stu- | 
 
 pendous edifice ever raised | 
 by human hands to the | 
 service of the Creator. The | 
 foundation-stone was laid 
 by the Archbishop Conrad | 
 of Hochsteden (p. 60), Aug. 
 14th, 1248, in presence of | 
 the Emperor William, the 
 opponent of Frederick II] 
 
 ' Caution, Travellers are recommended not to engage any of the nus 
 merous valets-de-place who are always hovering about, in and near the’ 
 cathedral, as their services are perfectly unnecessary. The Nave with them 
 
Vathedral. COLOGNE. 10. Route. 29 
 
 he first projector of a plan for the erection of a cathedral 
 jvas the Archbishop Engelbert I., surnamed “the holy”, who 
 vas murdered on the Gevelsberg at Schwelm by Frederick 
 )f Isenburg in 1225, and whose bones are preserved in a 
 jilver casket in the treasury of the cathedral. The first archi- 
 vect is believed to have been Meister Gerard of Riehl, a village 
 jear Cologne, to whom the Chapter made a grant in 1257 
 /y recognition of his valuable services. 
 
 | The construction of the sacred edifice progressed but 
 lowly, chiefly owing to the continual differences between the 
 rrchbishops and the townspeople, and the choir was not con- 
 fecrated till 1322, under Archbishop Henry (Count of Virne- 
 vurg). The building was subsequently proceeded with, but at 
 jist completely abandoned at the commencement of the 16th 
 ent. Since then it fell more and more to decay, and was 
 1 1796 converted by the French into a hay-magazine, its 
 iin being rendered more complete by the abstraction of the 
 vad from the roof. 
 
 The late enlightened king of Prussia, Frederick William IV., 
 nd his predecessor rescued the sacred edifice from total de- 
 pruction. The latter caused it to be examined by the eminent 
 rehitect Schinkel in 1816, and from that time up to his 
 eath in 1840, he expended upwards of 200,000 Thlr. (30,000/.) 
 pon its restoration. In addition to the above sum, donations 
 ad subscriptions amounting to 120,000 Thlr. (18,000/.) were 
 fevoted to the same object. During the reign of Fred. 
 illiam IV. a sum of 1,500,000 Thlr. (225,000/.), more than 
 alf of which was contributed from the royal purse, was 
 id out on the building. The entire sum expended between 
 842 and 1864 has exceeded 300,000/. The interior of the 
 nthedral has been completed since 1863. The partition which 
 »parated the choir from the central nave is now removed, 
 ) that the impression produced by the majestic proportions 
 § the whole is most profound. The magnificent Southern 
 ortal, 220 ft. in height, which alone cost 700,000 Thlr. 
 05,000/.) was finished in 1859, as well as the less elabo- 
 
 uned-glass windows is open to the public the whole day, the choir, when 
 vine service is not beiag performed. The following are the only autho- 
 ted fees (1—5 pers.): 1. For opening the high-choir, the choir chapels, 
 d the Dombild (cathedral picture), 15 Sgr.; 2. For the attendant who 
 Nducts the visitors along the upper choir-gallery, round the exterior of 
 @ cathedral, and to the summit of the tower, 15 Ser.; 3. For opening the 
 vasury, the shrine containing the relics of the Magi, and the Dombild, 
 & Thlr. Cards to be procured from the Suisse, who is generally to be 
 and in or near the transept. Any payment in addition to the above fees 
 ‘entirely gratuitous. The treasury and shrine of the Magi possess interest 
 ft judges of art only. 
 
 a 
 
80 Route 10. COLOGNE. Cathedra 
 
 rate Northern Portal, both of which were exclusively designe 
 by Zwirner (d. 1861), the talented architect who co) 
 ducted the work since 1833. Upon the Southern Tower tk 
 crane with its long projecting arm (50 ft.), the landmark 
 Cologne, is exactly in the same position as it was 400 yea: 
 ago, as may be seen from a painting in the Hospital of § 
 John at Bruges. The entire structure, exclusive of the tov 
 ers, is now nearly completed. The central tower (of iro) 
 and the iron frame-work of the- roof of the body of tt 
 church and transept were completed in 1861. 
 
 The Cathedral stands on a slight eminence (55 ft. abov 
 the Rhine) which in the time of the Romans formed th 
 S. E. corner of their camp. The interior is 421 it. long an 
 140 ft. broad; the transept is 234 ft. long, and the choir 140f 
 high. ‘The portion appropriated to divine service occupic 
 an area of 70,000 sq. ft. The S. tower exhibits the mo 
 complete harmony of design, but has attained little more tha 
 ‘ard (189 ft.) of the projected height (476 ft.). 
 
 Stained-glass windows. The five windows in the } 
 aisle, executed in 1508—9, are considered among the fine 
 existing specimens of the art. The new * windows in tk 
 S. aisle were presented in 1848 by King Ludwig of Bavari 
 and prove that the almost obsolete art has in some respec! 
 re-attained, if it does not surpass, its ancient glory. 
 
 Choir. Pedestals, which project from the 14 pillars « 
 the central part, bear statues, of value as specimens of tk 
 sculpture of the beginning of the 14th cent. They represel 
 Christ, the Virgin, and the 12 Apostles. The 9 frescoes k 
 Steinle, and the tapestry, representing the Nicene ereed, ri 
 cently worked by ladies of Cologne, on the wall behind th 
 choir-stalls, are worth inspection. The carved stalls then 
 selves belong to the 14th cent. Above the inner gallery (| 
 the high-choir is a series of admirable old stained-glass wit 
 dows, representing the kings of Judah &c. : 
 
 Chapels. 1st (Maternus) on 1. (to the N.): Tombstone ¢ 
 Archbishop Philipp v. Heinsberg (d. 1191), in the form of a tow} 
 wall with towers, gates, and turrets, an allusion to the fai 
 of his having been the founder of the fortifications of Cologn 
 Fine old carved altar-piece, representing the Passion. 
 
 2nd. (Johannis) Tombstone of Archbishop Conrad of Hoe: 
 steden (d. 1261), the founder of the cathedral. The altar of §| 
 Clara, with paintings by the celebrated Cologne master Wilhelm 
 is also worthy of note. 
 
 3d. (Engelbertus) in which the bones of Archbishe 
 Engelbert von der Mark, now preserved in a silver casket 1 
 the treasury, reposed till 1633. 
 
Cathedral. COLOGNE. 10. Route. 8 
 
 4th. (Chapel of the three kings or Magi). Here are pre- 
 served the bones of the Magi, which were brought from Con- 
 istantinople by the Empress Helena, afterwards taken to the 
 cathedral of Milan, and finally, after the destruction of Milan 
 in 1164, presented by the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa to 
 Archbishop Reinold of Cologne. The gorgeous shrine which 
 Icontains the relics was constructed towards the close of the 
 12th cent,, and was once richly adorned with gold, pearls, 
 ‘and precious stones, the greater number of which disappeared 
 during the French dominion. Near this chapel repose the 
 remains of the Electors of the house of Bavaria, and in front 
 jof it, under a stone without incription, is interred the heart 
 of Marie de Medicis (p. 34). Opposite, at the back of the 
 jaigh-altar, is the tombstone of St. Engelbert. 
 | Sth. (Agnes Chapel). Contains the celebrated * Dombild, 
 permed by Goethe “the axis on which the history of art on 
 bhe Lower Rhine turns,” a picture in compartments, repre- 
 senting the Adoration of the Magi, St. Gereon and St. Ursula, 
 and the Annunciation. It bears the date 1410, and is pro- 
 pably a work of the Master Stephan (p. 27). 
 } 6th. (Michael’s Chapel). Tombstone of Archbishop Wadlran 
 yf Julich (d. 1849) Carved altar-piece of the 15th cent. 
 ' 7th. (Stephen’s Chapel). Tombstone of the imperial 
 General von Hochkirchen (fell in 1703 at Landau in the Spa- 
 lish war of suce ession). Near it is the *tombstone of Arch- 
 pishop I'rederick of Saarwerden (d. 1414), admirably decorated 
 vith figures of saints. The chapel itself contains an altar- 
 biece by Overbeck, representing the Ascension of the Virgin. 
 Che stained-glass windows were presented in 1857 by a so- 
 biety at Bonn und Minster, formed for the purpose of fur- 
 ‘hering the construction of the cathedral. 
 | The Schatzkammer or ‘Treasury (entrance from the 
 jassage of the N. choir), contains a silver shrine with the 
 emains of St. Engelbert, valuable ecclesiastical vessels, espe- 
 ‘ally one presented by Pope Pius IX. in 1848, the sword of 
 iffice worn by the Elector of Cologne at the coronation pro- 
 vession at Frankfurt (R. 39), priestly robes, 10 carved ivory 
 fablets, &c. 
 
 The visitor should by no means omit to walk round the 
 ‘inner gallery of the choir and those on the exterior of the 
 shoir, or to ascend the now completed central tower (admission 
 Sy card, see p. 29, by the S. Portal), as thus a better idea 
 may be formed of the grandeur of the whole structure. The 
 »xternal gallery commands a magnificent * prospect over the 
 ea of houses, the plain intersected by the Rhine and the 
 Seven Mountains in the distance. , 
 
32 Route 10. COLOGNE. Archiep. Museum. 
 
 The Archiepiscopal Museum (Frzbischofliche Museum), 
 opposite to the S. side of the cathedral, containing a collection| 
 
 of ecclesiastical and other objects of art of the cniidale ages,} 
 occupies the site of the archiepiscopal palace of the middle ages,j 
 
 In the immediate vicinity of the W. Portal, at the end of 
 the Unter-Fettenhennen Strasse, an old Roman inscription on} 
 the wall of the N. W. corner house of the Domkloster (cathe-| 
 dral convent) marks the place where the Pfaffenpforte, one] 
 of the ancient town gates, formerly stood. 
 
 The remaining objects of interest in Cologne are coumel 
 rated in the order recommended at p. 26. 
 
 St. Cunibert (P!. 33); on the Rhine, in the N. part of thel 
 town, was consecrated by Archbishop Conrad in 1248, the} 
 same year in which he laid the foundation stone of the] 
 cathedral. It contains some fine old stained glass in the 
 choir, and several small pictures of saints on gold ground,| 
 probably of the old Cologne school. 
 
 * St. Ursula (Pl. 49) is said to have been erected at the| 
 beginning of the 12th cent. by the Emperor Henry II. The] 
 choir to the |. contains a monument, erected in 1658, ta} 
 St. Ursula, an English princess, who, according to one of thef 
 many legends extant, on her return from a pilgrimage to| 
 Rome was, with her 11,000 virgin attendants, barbarously} 
 murdered at Cologne. The bones of these virgin martyrs are| 
 kept in cases, placed round the church. Ten old pictures off 
 the Apostles, to the |. of the S. entrance, are painted on slate} 
 and bear the date 1224. Under the organ a Crucifixion in 
 stone is well executed. 
 
 The Jesuits’ Church (PI. 20), erected about 1636 in the| 
 style peculiar to this order, is overloaded with ddcérationdl 
 The bells were cast out of the metal of the cannons taken| 
 by Tilly at Magdeburg, and by him presented to the church,| 
 The entrance hall of the Priests’ Seminary, adjoining the church] 
 on the N., contains a handsome marble monument of the} 
 Master of the Teutonic order von Reusehenberg (d. 1603). | 
 
 The Church of St. Andreas (PI. 29), with Romanesqué| 
 nave and raised Gothic choir, contains a richly-adorned modern} 
 side-altar, where the shrine (15th cent.) with the relics of 
 Albertus Magnus, who lived and died in the contiguous Do4| 
 minican convent, is preserved. In the adjoining street ‘‘ Unter; 
 Sachsenhausen”’, are situated two palatial edifices, one the pro 
 perty of the Schaaffhausen Banking Co., the other of the Coa} 
 logne Iire Insurance and the Hail Insurance companies. | 
 
 In the Comddienstrasse on the r. is the Theatre (Pl. 52) 
 re-erected since its destruction by fire in 1859; on the 1. the} 
 
 Courts of Justice (Pl. 21), the Arsenal (Pl. 54), erected in 16019} 
 
St. Gereon. COLOGNE. 10. Route. 33 
 
 pn the r. the palatial Government buildings (Pl. 27). Farther 
 W. in the same direction, at the corner of the Apernstrasse, 
 s the Roman tower, inlaid with stones of different colours, 
 which is believed to have formed one of the corners of the 
 Roman town. The interior is undoubtedly of Roman origin, 
 he exterior belongs to the middle ages, and the upper part 
 s modern. After traversing the Steinfeldergasse the Church of 
 | *St. Gereon (PI. 36) is reached. This church, dedicated 
 0 the memory of the 408 martyrs of the Theban legion, with 
 their captains Gereon and Gregory (afterwards the patron 
 faints of Cologne), who perished here in the persecution of 
 he Christians under Diocletian, occupies the site of an ancient 
 hurch, said to have been founded by the empress Helena. 
 t was formerly known by the appellation of the church ad 
 ‘ureos sanctos, from the circumstance of its being roofed with 
 jilded metal plates. The nave is probably as ancient as the 
 th cent.; the choir belongs to the 13th, and is constructed 
 jn the transition style from the round to the pointed, the 
 atter predominating. 
 
 The entrance hall contains old tombstones of crusaders. 
 ‘he nave consists of a decagonal vaulted cupola, from the 
 ‘ides of which project the sarcophagi of the martyrs. Upwards 
 f 200 of their skulls, some of them enveloped with velvet, 
 re arranged round the choir under gilded arabesques. Traces 
 f ancient frescoes have recently been discovered. (Attendant’s 
 se for 1—3 pers. 10 Ser.) 
 
 About 100 yds. to the E. of the church, in the street 
 lanted with trees, 'is situated the Archiepiscopal Palace (P1\. 12), 
 1 front of which stands the * Mariensdule, a handsome mo- 
 ument erected in 1858 in commemoration of the promulgation 
 f{ the doctrine of the immaculate conception. The statues 
 te from drawings by Steinle. 
 
 Farther to the N., in the Klingelpiitz, is the Arresthaus 
 21. 7), a prison constructed in a radiating form. 
 
 The * Apostles’ Church (PI. 30) in the Neumarkt, a 
 pmarkably handsome structure with its towers, pinnacles, and 
 apola, was commenced in 1200, when the Romanesque style 
 ad attained its highest perfection. 
 
 |. When the plague raged in Cologne in 1357, Richmodis von Lyskirchen, 
 ife of the knight Mengis von Adocht, was attacked by the malady, and 
 mving fallen into a deathlike swoon, was interred in the Apostles’ church. 
 ing awakened from her trance by a thievish gravedigger in his attempts 
 _possess himself of her ring, she returned to the house of her husband, 
 10, imagining he beheld an apparition, declared he would sooner believe 
 vat his horses could ascend to the loft of his house than his departed spouse 
 urn in propria persona. Scarcely had the words escaped his lips, says 
 e legend, than horses’ hoofs were heard mounting the stairs, and their 
 Lads were speedily seen looking out of a window in the upper story of the 
 )BAEDEKER’s Rhine. 
 
 & 
 vo 
 
 ee 
 
34 Route 10. COLOGNE. Hospital. | 
 
 house. (Two horses’ heads are still to be seen, affixed to the upper story of 
 the house with the tower on the N. side of the Neumarkt, where they were 
 placed in commemoration of the miraculous event.) The lady recovered and 
 lived for many years afterwards, 
 
 [Near the Neumarkt is the Diorama (p. 25); thel Roman | 
 Tower (p. 33) is on the way from St. Gereon’s to the ‘Apos- 
 tles’ church. | 
 
 The new Mauritius Church (P]. 44) (Mauritius Steinweg) 
 is an edifice in the Gothic style. 
 
 The Hospital (Pl. 4) is a large and handsome edifice; 
 the patients are waited on by sisters of Charity. It may be 
 inspected in the afternoon; the visitor is expected on entering 
 his name in the book to give a donation towards the funds | 
 of the establishment. Attendant’s fee 5 Sgr. 
 
 St. Cecilia (Pl. 31), erected about 1200, is contiguous 
 to the hospital aud serves as its chapel. The crypt, which’ 
 contains remnants of Roman masonry, deserves inspection. 
 
 St. Peter’s Church (Pl. 47), adjacent to the latter, was 
 built in 1524, and contains an altar-piece (the crucifixion of 
 Peter) by Rubens, brought back in 1814 from Paris, whither 
 it had been taken by the French. It is concealed by another 
 picture of little value which the sexton removes for the) 
 somewhat exorbitant fee of 15 Sgr. A copy of the picture) 
 hangs over the N. side-entrance. The inspection of the old} 
 carved altar with paintings ascribed to Lucas of Leyden costs 
 5 Sgr. more. 
 
 The S. entrance of St. Peter’s is in the Sternengasse where | 
 (No. 10) Rubens was born (1577) (comp. p. 41). In the same) 
 house Marie de Medicis, widow of Henry IV. of F pris died = 
 in exile (1642). 
 
 *St. Maria im Capitol (PI. 40), so-called from its occu-) 
 pying the site of the Roman Capitol, is said to have been 
 founded at the close of the 7th cent. by Plectrudis, consort” 
 of Pepin of Heristal and mother of Charles Martel. The 
 present edifice was commenced in the llth cent. The S.7 
 (Hardenrath’s) chapel contains frescoes by Israel of Mekenem, | 
 the finest of which represents a group of choristers. The N. | 
 chapel (baptistery) contains an altar-piece of 1521, ascribed 
 to Albert Durer, representing the dying Mary, surrounded by 
 the Apostles. The old stained-glass windows and the rich” 
 sculpturing under the organ (executed in 1523) deserve men-| 
 tion. On the door of the N. entrance are carved wooden™ 
 reliefs of the 11th cent., and on the external wall of the. 
 choir a stone effigy of Plectrudis (probably the lid of a sar=) 
 cophagus). Adjacent to it is a small pointed archway, adorned | 
 with stone carving, lately restored, which forms the entrance™ 
 gateway from the Konig gsstrasse. 4| 
 
Girzenich. COLOGNE. 10. Route. 35 
 | 
 
 Farther to the E., in the same line of streets, ‘is situated 
 the Templars’ Lodge (Tempelhaus, Pl. 51) in the Rheingasse, 
 ‘No. 8. It dates from the 12th or 13th cent., and is frequently 
 alluded to in the annals of the city as a corporation or guild- 
 hall. It is now used as an Exchunge, and contains collections 
 of the Chamber of Commerce, Navigation Society, &c. The 
 walls of the three apartments on the ground-floor are covered 
 with paintings in the taste of the middle ages, emblematical 
 of priesthood, knighthood, and citizenship, the three elements 
 of the state in those times. 
 
 The Gitirzenich (PI. 15) (named after the citizen by whom 
 t was founded) erected in 1441—74, improved and enlarged 
 n 1856, is the most considerable of the non- ecclesiastical 
 edifices of Cologne. The new painted statues above the E. 
 sateway represent Agrippa and Marsilius, respectively the 
 ounder and defender of the town during the Roman period. 
 Phe large *Hall on the first floor was employed in the middle 
 iges on festive occasions, and served as a banquet-room 
 vhen the emperors visited the city. In 1857 it was en- 
 irely remodelled, and contains stained-glass windows re- 
 resenting the arms of the once allied towns of Cologne, 
 ‘ulich, Cleve, Berg, and Mark, St. Peter as patron saint, 
 wo imperial eagles, the arms of the city, those of the 22 
 ifferent corporations &c. The two large, richly carved 
 himney-pieces, with allusions to the former history of Co- 
 ogne, are worth inspection. 
 
 The *Rathhaus or Town-hall (Pl. 26), facing the Stadt- 
 ausplatz to the W. and the old market to the E., was founded 
 1 the 13th cent., and attained its present form in 1549. The 
 Portal, added in 1571, is in the new Romanesque style. It 
 ests upon 16 marble pillars with open arches, and bears 
 x long Latin inscriptions recording the gratitude of the 
 ‘tizens to Julius Caesar, Augustus, Agrippa, Constantine, Jus- 
 an, and the German Emperor Mazimilian. The Relies 
 tain an allusion to an ancient tradition. 
 | The Archbishop Engelbert (p. 27) sought the life of the Burgomaster 
 ryn. He invited his intended victim to a banquet and caused him to be 
 mducted to a room where a hungry lion had been placed to devour the 
 
 noxious citizen. The latter, however, contrived to thrust his l. arm down 
 e animal’s throat, while he stabbed it with the r, hand. 
 
 The Chapel of the Rathhaus which formerly contained 
 -e Dombild (p. 31), was, before the banishment of the Jews, 
 849), a synagogue. The Gothic tower of the Rathhaus at 
 esent contains the Wallraf Library and Archives, open daily 
 ym 10 to 12. 
 
 *Gross-St. Martin (Pl. 38), near the Rhine, consecrated 
 1172, is a bold and elegant Romanesque fabric. The 
 
 9 
 3%* 
 
Museum. 
 
 36 Route 10. COLOGNE. 
 massive tower, one pinnacle of which is yet incomplete, rests 
 upon four arches, nearly 100 ft. in height and 40 ft. in width, 
 the only counterpoise of which consists of the handsome 
 half-rotundas. ‘The lower part of the church was erected 
 more than a century later and exhibits the transition to the 
 pointed style. The antique font, decorated with lions’ heads 
 and foliage, a present from Pope Leo III., is a rare specimen 
 of the stone carving of the 8th cent. On the upper side- 
 altars are placed 6 new stone statues by Hoffmann of Rome, 
 to the l. St. Martin, St. Eliphius, and St. Brigitta, to the r. 
 the Virgin with angels. The N. aisle contains a fine Descent 
 from the Cross, by du Bois, and Christ before Annas, by 
 Honthorst. The pulpit rests on a recumbent dragon. 
 
 The Minoritenkirche (PI. 45) is of the 13th cent., and 
 is said to have been built in their leisure hours by the same 
 workmen who were engaged in the construction of the cathe- 
 dral. It contains the tombstone of the celebrated theological 
 disputant Duns Scotus (d. 1309), the inscription on which 
 records: Scotia me genwit, Anglia me suscepit, Gala me docuit, 
 Colonia me tenet. The beautiful cloisters on the N. side are 
 in the late Gothic style. The church is now undergoing a 
 thorough repair, the expenses of which were borne by Herr 
 Richartz (d. 1861), a wealthy and public-spirited citizen of 
 Cologne. At his expense likewise (30,000/.) the new 
 
 * Museum (Wallraf-Richartz) (Pl. 22) has been constructed. 
 The statues at the principal portal (N. side) as well as those 
 on the E. side, represent characters of distinction in the 
 annals of the city. The building contains the late Professor 
 Wallratf’s valuable collection of antiquities of Rome and the 
 middle ages, and pictures by ancient and modern masters 
 (adm. gratis on Sundays, holidays and Wed. afternoons, at 
 other times for a fee of 714, Ser.) 
 
 Ground-floor. On the right the Roman Antiquities, on the left 
 ancient weapons and armour. The lower cloister contains several Mosaic 
 pavements, the upper is occupied by a collection of vases, stained-glass ete. 
 — In three saloons to the 1. is situated the Permanent Exhibition of the: 
 Cologne Art-Union. The staircase is adorned with frescoes representing the, 
 different epochs in the history of art at Cologne. 
 
 The Upper Story contains pictures of the Dutch, Italian and French. 
 schools, as well as the works of several eminent modern artists. The prin- 
 cipal attraction of the gallery, however, consists in the collection of paint-) 
 ings of the old Cologne school by Meister Wilhelm and his followers (12—84), 
 Meister Stephan and his school (85—112), and painters of the Van KHyck 
 school (118—372). | 
 
 St. Severin (PI. 48), at the S. extremity of the town, 
 was founded at the commencement of the 11th cent., but the) 
 greater part of the edifice is in the Gothic style and there, 
 fore belongs to a later date. The tall pointed spire was) 
 added about the close of the 15th cent. The “Last Supper”, 
 
: St. Pantaleon. COLOGNE. 10. Route, 37 
 
 : 
 iby de Bruyn, a winged altar-piece to the r., is one of the 
 finest works of this master. The sacristy contains a fresco 
 /by the Master Wilhelm (p. 27), which is unfortunately in a 
 | bad state of preservation. 
 
 St. Pantaleon (Pl. 46) is mentioned in ancient documents 
 | as early as 670. Archbishop Bruno (d. 965), brother of Otto 
 the Great, is said to have employed the remnants of the bridge 
 of Constantine (p. 26) in building the abbey and enlarging 
 |the church. To the r. by the High-altar is the tombstone of 
 the Empress Theophania (d. 999), consort of Otto IL., and to 
 the 1. that of Count Hermann von Ziitphen, abbot of the mo- 
 /nastery, and brother of St. Irmgard, both of them erected in 
 the last century. The tine old Gothic sculpturing under the 
 organ has been lately restored. The church is one of the 
 ‘most ancient buildings of Cologne of the Christian period, 
 and is fitted up as a garrison church. 
 
 The new Prot. Trinity Church (P1.56) in the “basilica” 
 | style, is situated in the Filzengraben, not far from the har-, 
 bour, and the Synagogue (PI. 50) in the Moorish style, 
 with its handsome cupola, in the Glockengasse. 
 | One of the most remarkable works of its age is the well- 
 preserved Town-wall, with its broad, deep fosses and fine 
 |gate-towers. Begun at the close of the 12th cent. under 
 Archbishop Philipp, and completed in the 15th, it describes 
 a semi-circle of 3800 yds., the chord of which is formed by 
 the bank of the Rhine. 
 
 The wharves, from the N. extremity of the town to the 
 ‘Bayenthurm, exhibit an animated and interesting scene. Near 
 the tower is the Sicherheitshafen, or Safety-harbour (where 
 ‘vessels take refuge in winter from the dangers of the floating 
 ice), with its ship-building establishment, and beyond it an 
 extensive cotton-factory. The warehouses of the Freihafen, or 
 ‘Free harbour, were erected in 1838 in the same style as the 
 Gurzenich. The town may now be entered by the Mihlen- 
 gassenthor; following a N. direction the new Domthor is soon 
 ‘reached, through which the traveller arrives at the Iron 
 Bridge, 1312 ft. in length. Part of it, 24 ft. in breadth, is 
 used as a railway-bridge, the remaining part, 27 ft. broad, 
 serves for the ordinary traffic. 
 
 _ The Trankgassen-Thor by the bridge, to the N., leads to 
 the extensive Rhine-wharf, following which and passing St. 
 ‘Cunibert (p. 32), whence the steamboats to the ZLoolog. 
 (Garden and Milheim start, the traveller crosses the entrance 
 to the old Sicherheitshafen, and reaches the Victoria-Theatre 
 (p. 25), and farther down, the Zoological Garden (open 
 daily in summer from 6 am., in winter from 8 a.m., till 
 
38 Route. 10. DEUTZ. 
 
 sunset; admission see p. 25). There is usually a military 
 concert here on Wed. afternoons. The grounds are. well 
 laid out and the collection of animals meritorious. Good 
 
 refreshment-room. — In the immediate vicinity is situated the 
 Botanical Garden of the ‘‘Flora” company. — Carriages see 
 (p. 25), — The steamboats between Cologne and Mulheim | 
 
 have a station near these gardens, where a bell is rung to 
 apprise visitors of the approach of the boats returning to 
 Cologne. 
 
 At the harbour, the glacis of the town-fortifications is 
 entered; it is planted with trees and laid out with walks, and 
 affords an agreeable promenade round the town. To the l., | 
 between Gereon’s and the Ehren-Thor, lies the Town-Garden, | 
 with horticultural school. Parallel with the town, and about 
 100 yds. from its walls, is a long series of Forts, connected | 
 with the fortifications. Beyond the last of these lie the 
 grounds of the Cologne machine manufactory, forming a sort | 
 of suburb. | 
 
 The extensive Cemetery is situated on the road to Aix- | 
 la-Chapelle, but contains no monuments worthy of note. 
 
 On the r. bank of the Rhine, opposite to Cologne, lies 
 Deutz (Hotels see p. 25), the téte-de-pont of Cologne, the 
 Castrum Divitensium of the Romans, founded probably in the 
 Ist century, and afterwards strengthened by Constantine. It 
 was undoubtedly a Roman fortress, and existed up to 1114, 
 was repeatedly restored and again destroyed in later ages, but 
 never attained any importance as a town, as a settlement here | 
 would have been inconsistent with the privileges of the town | 
 of Cologne. Subsequently to 1816 Deutz was fortified in) 
 connection with Cologne by the Prussians. The buildings of | 
 the former Benedictine abbey now serve as an extensive ar- | 
 tillery workshop. The Cologne and Minden Railway Station | 
 (p. 25) is situated near the new Cavalry Barracks. 
 
 One of the finest existing edifices in the Gothic style, similar in plan 
 and style to the Cathedral, is the church of the Cistercian abbey of * Alten- 
 berg, founded in 1255 and consecrated in 1379. This magniticent fabric, | 
 situated in the Dhinthal, 12 M. N. E. from Deutz, was most judiciously 
 restored by the late king of Prussia, by whose ancestors, the Counts Adolf | 
 and Eberhard vom Berge, the abbey was founded in 1133. Several members | 
 of the same family are here interred: A single traveller may avail himself) 
 of the Lennep diligence from Cologne early in the morning as far as Strasser=) 
 hof, through which it again passes on its way back to Cologne at 8 p.mJ) 
 Altenberg is about 1'/, M, distant; good halting-place at Schmitz’s inn, in. 
 Engelrath, near Strasserhof. Those who are unwilling to devote an entire 
 day to this excursion, may take the steamboat or railway to Mulheim, | 
 and walk thence by Odenthal to Altenberg (9 M.); in the evening back 
 by the diligence from Strasserhof.. It is less expensive for a party of | 
 3—4 persons to take a carriage from Deutz to Altenberg in 2 hrs., fare | 
 about 4 Thlr. 
 
39 
 
 ll. From Cologne to Crefeld and Cleve. 
 : ‘ Comp. Map R, 4. 
 
 By: Railway to Crefeld in 1'/ hr.; fares: 1 Thir. -13 Ser., 1 Thir- 
 ) Beat Sern. to wleve ines /, bres fares :: 3° Thir.-5', “2 Chir. 10 "or? ‘Phir. 
 | 17'f, Sgr. Return tickets for day of issue and following day only. Trains 
 | start from the Central station (p. 25). 
 
 : The district traversed by this line is flat, but possesses 
 /some places to which an historical interest attaches. 
 
 | Worringen, the Buruncum of the Romans, was in June, 
 : 1288, the scene of a battle fought by the troops of Cologne 
 }and Brabant and the Duke of Berg against the Archbishop 
 | of Cologne and the Duke of Guelders, by which the Duchy 
 of Limburg became annexed to that of Brabant. Horrem is 
 the station for Dormagen, the Durnomagus of the Romans, 
 -and station of the 22nd Legion (Trunsrhenana). M. Delhoven 
 ‘has a fine collection of Roman antiquities. 
 
 Neuss (Drei Koniye; * Rheinischer Hof), at the same 
 ‘time a station on the Aix-la-Chapelle and Diisseldorf line 
 (p. 11), is one of the oldest towns in Germany, founded by 
 the Ubii in 35 B. C., and often mentioned as a Roman fortress 
 iby Tacitus, under the Name of Novesium, the station of the 
 6th and 16th Legions. In 1474 Neuss was in vain besieged 
 by Charles the Bold of Burgundy during 48 weeks, and in 
 1586 was conquered and treated with great severity by 
 Alexander Farnese. It once lay on the Rhine, which is now 
 11/, M. distant. The handsome * Quirinuskirche, founded in 
 1209, belongs to the transition period from the Romanesque 
 ‘to the Gothic. St. Quirinus, to whom the church is dedicated, 
 ‘is believed to have been a Roman soldier who perished in 
 ‘the persecution of the Christians. The grammar-school con- 
 tains a considerable collection of Roman antiquities. 
 
 Tbe train then proceeds by stat. Osterath to Crefeld 
 (p. 11). The next stat. Aempen, an ancient town with a well- 
 'preserved church in the Romanesque style, is believed to have 
 been the birthplace of Thomas a Kempis (d. at Zwolle, 1471). 
 The fertile district now begins to assume the Dutch character. 
 Geldern, the next station of importance, formerly the capital 
 of the Duchy of Guelders, has belonged to the Prussian 
 dominions since 1713. The train here crosses the Miers, and 
 passes the stations of Kevelaer (much frequented by pilgrims), 
 Weeze and Goch (a place of some importance in the middle ages). 
 The sand-hills which form the culminating point between the 
 Rhine and the Meuse are now approached and gradually as- 
 cended, and to the J]. the town of Cleve shortly comes in sight. 
 : Cleve (* Maiwald, on the S. side, * Robbers, to the W. of 
 the town; * Hotel Laferriere, contiguous to the palace, moderate ; 
 
 0 ee—E—EEOEE—EEEEEEEEeEEEeeEeerrrrereeeeee 
 
40 Route 12. CLEVE. 
 
 Kaiserlicher Hof), once the capital of the Duchy of the same | 
 name, is a clean town, delightfully situated on the brow of a | 
 wooded eminence, 414 M. to the W. of Emmerich. The | 
 Stiftskirche, erected in 1345, contains several monuments of the | 
 Counts and Dukes of Cleve (the finest is that of Adolf VI., 
 d. 1394), and one of Margaretha von Berg (d. 1425). 
 
 On an eminence in the centre of the town rises the 
 Palace of the former dukes, with the lofty *Schwanenthurm 
 erected by Adolf I. in 1439, on the site of an ancient tower, 
 believed to have been built by Casar. The Schwanenthurm, 
 as well as the Clever-Berg, */, M. distant, commands the most - 
 charming prospect on the Lower Rhine. To the S. extends 
 a range of hills on which lies the Prinzenhof, property of the 
 Princess of Waldeck and Pyrmont, once the seat of Prince 
 Moritz of Nassau, the governor of the Duchy appointed by the 
 Elector of Brandenburg. To the N. lies the series of hills, 
 known by the name of the Thiergarten, laid out with park- 
 like grounds, which adjoin the road to Nymegen. Diligence 
 from Cleve to Nymegen in 21, hrs. Railway in construction. 
 
 From Cleve to Hanten on the Rhine (see p. ‘17%, 
 
 12. From Cologne to Frankfurt by Giessen. 
 
 By Railway to Giessen in 51/, hrs.; fares: 4 Thlr, 12174,, 2. Thir. 281, 
 or 2 Thir. 614 Sgr. From Giessen to Frankfurt by express in 1 hr. 33 min,, 
 by ordinary trains in 1*/,—2!/ hrs.; fares: 1 Thir. 23, 1 Thlr. 6, or 22 Sgr, 
 
 The train starts from Deutz and traverses a flat country 
 at some distance from the Rhine. The first station of any 
 importance is Siegburg (*Stern), which communicates with 
 Bonn by diligence several times a day (9 Sgr.; omnibus 4 Sgr.). 
 The buildings of what was formerly a Benedictine Abbey on 
 the hill are now employed as a Lunatic Asylum. 
 
 After crossing the Sieg, a view of the Seven Mts. to the 
 r. is obtained, and the station Hennef is reached. The castle 
 of Aliner, situated on the skirts of the wood to the l., stands 
 at the entrance to the narrower part of the valley of the Sieg, 
 which the line now ascends. Farther on, the convent of 
 Bodingen is seen to the 1., surrounded by vineyards, and on | 
 the opposite side the village and ruined castle of Blankenberg. — 
 Beyond stat. Hitorf the convent of Merten is seen on an emi- Al 
 nence to the r., and here the wooded hills which enclose the | 
 valley increase in height. Schladern, with the ruined castle 
 of Windeck, is one of the finest points on the line. Beyond 
 the station of Wissen, on the 1. bank of the Sieg, stands the 
 handsome castle of Schdnstein, property of the Prince of Hatz- 
 feld-Wildenburg. 
 
BETZDORF. 12. Route. 41 
 
 At Betzdorf the line leaves the valley of the Sieg and 
 enters that of the Heller. 
 
 The first portion of the line to Siegen was opened in Jan. 1861; stations: 
 Kirchen, Niederscheiden, then 
 
 Siegen (*Goldener Lowe; near the stat. a restaurant, beer) (7100 inhab.), 
 an ancient town with two castles of the Princes of Nassau-Siegen, who 
 became extinct in 1743. The lewer castle contains a monument to the cele- 
 brated Prince Maurice of Orange (d. 1625). Siegen, as has lately been dis- 
 covered, was the birthplace of Rubens. The town is the central point of 
 the iron-traffic of this district. 
 
 The Railway from Siegen to Hagen (Ruhr-Sieg line) (in 3, hrs.; 
 fares: 2 Thlr. 25, 2 Thir. 4, 1 Thlr. 13 Sgr.) continues to follow the course 
 of the Sieg from Betzdorf, and beyond Creuzthal enters the valley of the 
 Hundem, from which it emerges at Altenhundem, and proceeds in the 
 valley of the Lenne to Altena (Queimann). The old castle in the vicinity of 
 the last-named place was the family residence of the Counts von der Mark, 
 and commands a fine view. At Hagen (Deutsches Haus; Hétel Liinen- 
 schloss) is the junction of this line with the railway to Elberfeld and 
 Disseldorf; near it is situated the ancient and interesting ruin of Hohen- 
 Syburg (p. 22). 
 
 Beyond burbach the Giessen line enters the Duchy of 
 Nassau and ascends the valley of the Dill to Wetzlar, where 
 it unites with the Lahn Railway. 
 
 Wetzlar (* Herzogliches Haus), formerly a free imperial 
 town, is picturesquely situated on the Lahn, and commanded 
 by the ruined castle of *Aalsmunt, which together with the 
 * Metzeburg are the finest points in the environs. The most 
 ancient (N. W.) part of the * Cathedral, the so-called Heiden- 
 thurm, was erected in the 11th cent.; the remainder dates 
 from the 14th—16th. Here Goethe resided for some months 
 in 1572, and Wetzlar and its environs were the scene of the 
 events which suggested his “Sorrows of Werther”. 
 
 The line continues to ascend the valley of the Lahn, and 
 after crossing the frontier of Hessen-Darmstadt near Duten- 
 hofen, unites with the Main-Weser line at Giessen. 
 
 The valleys of the Sieg, Heller, Dill and Lahn have for centuries 
 been noted for their richness in iron; in some places lead, copper and silver 
 mines are also worked. 
 
 Those interested in agriculture should here observe the manner in which 
 the hills are frequently cultivated. The underwood is cleared every 16—20 
 years, and the soil employed as arable land during a period of 3 years. 
 
 Before Giessen is reached the ruins of Gleiberg and Fetz- 
 berg are seen on the l. 
 
 Giessen (Hinhorn; Rappe; Prinz Carl; good beer and fine 
 view at the Felsenkeller), situated on the Lahn, is principally 
 of modern origin, and the seat of a university, founded in 
 1607 (400 students). 
 
 About 3 M. to the |. of stat. Butzbach rise the considerable 
 ruins of the castle of Mimnzenberg, destroyed in the thirty 
 years war. The higher (145 ft.) of its two towers commands 
 an extensive view. 
 
42 Route 13. NAUHEIM. 
 
 Nauheim (* Hotel de [ Hurope, R. and B. 1 fl. 18 kr.; Cur-= 
 haus; Hotel Henkel, Hotel de Paris), a watering-place with 
 a saline spring, situated on the N. E. slopes of the Taunus 
 Mts., is a handsome looking place when viewed from the 
 station, especially when the warm fountain plays, the milky 
 and foaming mineral water of which rises to the height of 
 56 ft. The “green table”, lately introduced, forms one of the 
 principal attractions of the place, which is visited by about 
 3000 patients annually. The Johannisberg, a wooded eminence, 
 1 M. from the Cursaal, surmounted by the tower of an ancient 
 monastery, commands an extensive prospect. 
 
 Friedberg (Hotel Trapp; Simon), once a free Imperial town, 
 is surrounded by walls of considerable extent, and possesses 
 two handsome Gothic churches. On the N. side stands a 
 fine, well-preserved watch-tower, near which is situated the 
 beautiful Palace garden. 
 
 As the train approaches Frankfurt, the Taunus Mts. are 
 seen on the r. Bonames is the station for the baths of Homburg. 
 
 Frankfurt, see R. 39. 
 
 13. The Rhine from Cologne to Bonn. 
 
 Comp. Map R. 4. 
 By Railway, express in 40 min., ordinary in 1 hr.; fares: 20, 15 and 
 10 Sgr. — By steamboat in 2'4 hrs. (down in 1'/, hr.), fares: 8 or 5 Ser. 
 Conyevances see p. 25. 
 N. B. In the following routes (18—24) 7. and /. are used to indicate the 
 position of towns, villages ete. with regard to the steamboat- passenger as- 
 cending the river, 
 
 As the majestic city of Cologne, with its cathedral, nu- 
 
 merous towers and lofty railway-bridge gradually disappears, 
 the castle of Bensberg comes in sight, situated on an 
 eminence 9M. to the 1. It was erected by the Count Palatine 
 John William, and is now employed as a Prussian military 
 school. At the foot of the hill on which the castle stands, 
 is a monument erected by the present emperor of Austria in 
 1854, to the memory of about 2000 Austrian soldiers who 
 fell at the battle of Jemappes in 1794. About 3/, M. to the 
 K. rises the Erdenburg, an eminence surmounted by the 
 remnants of an old wall, believed to be of ancient Germanic 
 
 origin. A few miles farther on is (1.) Mondorf, at the old— 
 
 influx of the Sieg. Opp. to the island of Graupenwerth, at 
 the mouth of the Sieg, lies the village of Grau Rheindorf. 
 On the hillside, about 9 M. from the confluence of the 
 Sieg and Rhine, are seen the buildings of the ancient Bene- 
 dictine Abbey of Siegburg, now employed as a lunatic-asylum. 
 
 Siegburg is a stat. on the Cologne and Giessen railway: 
 
 diligence several times a day from Bonn in 114 hr. (9 Sgr.) 
 
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43 
 
 Route. 
 
 BONN. 
 
 | To the |. the church of Schwarz-Rheindorf is seen 
 peeping from_among the trees; it is a curious structure, con- 
 sisting of two churches, one above the other, consecrated in 
 1511 by Archbishop Arnold of Wied. It shows no trace of 
 ithe pointed-arch style, and possesses a particular value in the 
 history of architecture. The arcade which almost entirely 
 surrounds the church, with its numerous pillars whose bases 
 and capitals exhibit the most various styles of decoration, is 
 well worth the inspection of architects and lovers of art. 
 The lower church contains interesting frescoes of the 12th 
 eent. To the r. the Jeswitenhof, then the Wichelshof. As the 
 steamboat approaches Bonn, the charms of the Rhineland 
 gradually begin to present themselves to the view. 
 
 14. Bonn. 
 
 Hotels. *Star, in the market-place, well conducted, excellent table 
 @Whote. *Royal Hotel, R. 20, L. 6, A 6 Sgr,; Bellevue, outside of the 
 iCoblenz gate, with gardens on the bank of the Rhine, R. 16—20, L. 5, B. 8, 
 IA, 6 Ser.; *Hédtel Kley, at the Coblenz gate , with garden extending to 
 mame river, KR. 15, L. 4, B. 8,,D.'15 Ser.; it is at the same” time a good. 
 ‘restaurant and boarding house, pension ri), Last $e diem and upwards. — 
 *Rheineck, opp. the steamboat pier, R. By 1595155) Ae 5.S8er. yR hei 
 iInischer Ho f, Schwan, good ebiorer esr eet tates, Hotel Garni: Chateau 
 idu Rhin. 
 
 Restaurants. Clouth, in the Sandkaul; *Nettekoven, in the Neu- 
 gasse, Bavarian beer, * Voss and *Perrin. both in the Wenzelgasse, 
 
 Cafés, Schweizer Caffehaus next to the Jesuits’ church; Lau- 
 binge r, confectioner in the market-place, opp. to the Star Hotel. 
 
 Newspapers and restaurant in the Lese- und Hrholungs - Gesellschaft, 
 opp. to the University; the Academic Reading-room contains upwards of 
 200 newspapers and periodicals; visitors must be introduced by a member. 
 
 Bath. Warm and Shower baths at Riss’s, 8 Sgr. Cold river-baths in 
 the Rhine, 3 Sgr. On the r. bank, Swimming-baths 5 Sgr.; after 5 p.m 
 boats cross every half-hour at the upper end of the town. 
 
 Carriages. For a drive in the town, 1—2 pers. 5, each additional person 
 j2'/, Sgr., box 1 Sgr.; 14 hr. 7'/,—10 Sgr. 
 
 Railway station near the Poppelsdort avenue (p. 47). 
 Telegraph Office Fiirstenstrasse 38. ; 
 English Church Service performed by a resident chaplain in the Uni- 
 
 ive ersity “church, 
 Visitors whose time is limited should inspect the exterior of the Munster 
 
 church (p. 46), the monument of Beethoven (p. 46), the Collection of Rhenish 
 and Westphalian antiquities (p. 46); the frescoes in the Aula (p. 45), the 
 ‘Scientific Museum in the palace at Poppelsdorf (p. 46), the view from the 
 Kreuzberg (p. 47), and the “alte Zoll” (p. 46). 
 
 ie The lofty tower of the Minster church, the handsome new 
 residences s on the Rhine above the town, the long extended 
 buildings of the University, peeping from among the trees, and 
 the grounds of the “alte Zoll” give a cheerful and pleasing 
 aspect to the town, when viewed from the steamboat. 
 
 | Bonn (Bonna, or the Castru Bonnensia) eared mentioned 
 lby Tacitus (Hist. IV, 20, 25, 62, 70, 77. V. 22), was one of 
 
44 Route 74. BONN. History. 
 
 the first Roman fortresses on the Rhine, probably founded by 
 Drusus, and the head-quarters of the Ist, 5th, 15th, 21st, and 
 
 and 22nd Legions, and of the Austrian cohort. It was ce-| 
 lebrated for its Temple of Mars and the Ara Ubiorum, which | 
 
 is believed by some to have stood here (Tacit. Ann. Pe OIno7 
 One of the two bridges, which Florus says that Drusus con- 
 
 structed across the Rhine, was at Bonn, the other at Mayence. | 
 
 The former stood at the end of the Steinweg or Roman 
 Street at the Wichelshof, on the N. side of the town, as was 
 proved by excavations made in 1818. In the year’ 70 A.Dj 
 Claudius Civilis, the leader of the Batavi, who had taken up 
 arms against the Romans, forced his way as far as Bonn, 
 
 and gained a victory, Bonnense pretium, as Tacitus records | 
 
 (Hist. IV, 20.). 
 
 Under Constantine the Great, whose mother Helena is | 
 
 said to have founded the Minster, Bonn seems to have been 
 a flourishing place. About the middle of the 4th cent. it was 
 destroyed by the Alemanni. The Emperor Julian shortly after- 
 wards caused the walls to be rebuilt, but the town did not 
 regain its former importance till 1268, when the Archbishop 
 Engelberg of Falkenburg transferred his residence and the 
 seat of his temporal government thither. An ancient tomb- 
 stone, as well as the oldest seal belonging to the town, bears 
 the name of Verona, which was the appellation given to that 
 part of the town occupied by the citizens, whilst the name of 
 Bonna was applied to the military portion. In later ages the 
 name of Verona does not again occur. The German kings, 
 Frederick of Austria (1314), and Charles IV. (1846) were 
 crowned in the Minster at Bonn. 
 
 The Protestant tendencies of the Archbishops of Cologne, 
 Hermann of Wied and Gebhard of Waldburg in the 16th cent., 
 principally manifested by the latter in his marriage with the 
 nun Agnes of Mansfeld, for which sacrilegious act he was 
 declared apostate and banished from his Electorate, brought 
 the town of Bonn into great trouble; for Gebhard, being as 
 much soldier as priest, collected an army and made war 
 against the prelate who had been elected in his stead; but 
 he was compelled to retire to the castle of Godesberg, a 
 
 stronghold belonging to the father of Agnes, which was 
 
 besieged and blown up, thus terminating his turbulent career, 
 In the war of liberation of the Netherlands, in the 30 years’ 
 war, and especially in the Spanish war of succession, Bonn 
 suffered repeatedly from sieges. The Electors of the house 
 
 of Bavaria were always at this period in alliance with France 
 
 against the house of Austria. The siege of 1689 was conducted 
 by the Elector Frederick III. of Brandenburg (King Fred. I.) 
 
i] 
 Beis ee rie 
 arate 
 Ae 
 
 University. BONN. 14. Route. 45 
 
 at the head of the Imperial and allied troops. Amongst other 
 eelebrated generals, Alexander of Parma, Montecuculi, Marl- 
 borough, Opdam, and Coehorn took part about the same 
 time in the operations against the town, the fortifications of 
 which were finally dismantled in 1717, in accordance with the 
 peace of Baden. 
 
 Under the magnificent sway of the Electors of the 18th 
 century Bonn rose to great opulence, and one of them, Max 
 Frederick of Konigseck, founded an Academy in 1777, which 
 three years later was raised to a University by his successor. 
 It only subsisted however till 1794, when the town fell into 
 the hands of the French. 
 
 During the French dominion Bonn suttered much, and its 
 population decreased from 9500 to 7500; the number of 
 inhab. is now 19,425 (3000 Prot., 500 Jews, 800 Students, 
 900 Soldiers). The present University was founded by the 
 king of Prussia in 1818. Whole streets of handsome houses 
 have since then sprung up, especially on the S. side of the 
 town; the more ancient portion consists of a few narrow 
 streets on the N. side which, however, present no objects 
 of interest. 
 
 The lectures, with the exception of those on natural science 
 and agriculture, are delivered in the Schloss (Pl. 27), which 
 the Elector Clemens August erected in 1730 as a residence. 
 The buildings were much injured by the French, but have 
 been completely restored by the Prussian government. They 
 occupy considerably more than half of the S. side of the 
 town (1400 ft. in length), and present a very imposing ap- 
 pearance. They are terminated on the EH. side by the Coblenz 
 gate. Besides the lecture-rooms they contain a well-arranged 
 library of 200,000 vols., adorned with a large collection of 
 busts, among which are those of Niebuhr, Schlegel, Welcker, 
 and Arndt; a valuable Numismatic collection (4000 Greek and 
 Roman coins); the Jfusewm of Antiquities (see p. 46); the 
 Physical cabinet; an admirable Clinical institution, and the 
 Aula or Hall, containing frescoes emblematical of the four 
 faculties, theology, jurisprudence, medicine, and philosophy, 
 painted by Cornelius and his pupils, Hermann, Forster, and 
 Gotzenberger in 1824-35. Admission to the Aula on application 
 to the door-keeper, who lives to the 1. under the university- 
 halls (fee 5 Sgr.). The academical Museum of Art, containing 
 many valuable casts, statues, &c., has lately been transferred 
 to the academical riding-school. The library and museum of 
 art are always accessible (attendant’s fee 10 Sgr. for 1 pers., 
 20 Sgr. for a party). What was formerly the courtchapel of 
 the Electoral palace is now converted into a Protestant place 
 
46 
 
 Route 14. BONN. Museum. | 
 
 of worship. Divine service, according to the rites of the Church | 
 of England, is performed on Sundays by a resident chaplain. 
 The Museum of Antiquities (Museum vaterldndischer | 
 Alterthumer) is an extensive and valuable collection of monu- | 
 ments and other objects belonging to the Roman period, found | 
 in the Rhenish province and Westphalia, and greatly enriched 
 by the excavations at the Wichelshof already mentioned 
 (p. 44). One of the most interesting objects is a Roman | 
 altar, dedicated to Victory, 6 ft. in height, and hewn out 
 of shell-limestone. It bears the inscription “Dew victorie | 
 sacrum”, and is decorated with high-reliefs; it is believed by} 
 many to be identical with the Ara Ubiorum, mentioned by 
 Tacitus. The numerous inscriptions on the various mo- 
 numents in the collection embrace almost the entire field of 
 Roman mythology, and some of them contain allusions to the 
 Gallic and even to the ancient German religious rites. Of 
 tombstone-inscriptions one of great historical importance is 
 that of Marcus Celius, in which the battle of the Teutoburg 
 Wood (bellum Varianum) is mentioned; a Greek gravestone, | 
 found at Bonn, is also very remarkable. The entrance hall | 
 contains a number of ancient and other capitals. | 
 The grounds at the E. side of the Coblenz gate, termin- 
 ating in an old bastion, known by the name of the *Alte 
 Zoll, deserve a visit for the sake of the fine prospect they | 
 afford of the Rhine, Seven Mountains, &c. : 
 The finest of the churches is the *Miimster (PI. 1), built | 
 in the transition style. It was formerly an archdeanery of | 
 St. Cassius and St. Florentius, and, like many of the Rhenish 
 churches, traces its foundation back to the time of Constantine 
 the Great, having been, as we are told by an ancient tra- 
 dition, founded by St. Helena, the pious mother of the em- 
 peror. The choir, with its towers, and the crypt, which a 
 glass door separates from the choir, as well as the cloisters 
 with their tastefully decorated pillars, date from the year 
 1157, and the remainder of the edifice from 1270. The in- 
 terior only contains two Basreliefs worth inspection, the Nati- 
 vity and Baptism of Christ on the altars to the r. Not far 
 trom the chief portal is the Sarcophagus of the archbishop 
 Engelbert von Falkenburg (d. 1275). The ancient chapter- 
 house adjoining the church is now converted into a residence | 
 for the clergyman. | 
 The other churches offer few attractions to detain the tra- 
 veller. The Minoritenkirche contains an altar-piece by Spiel- 
 berg, representing the baptism of the Franconian king Clovis 
 by St. Remigius, and possesses a fine organ. 
 The bronze *Statue of Beethoven (Pl. 19), in the Miin- 
 
Poppelsdorf. BONN. 14, Route. A7 
 
 sterplatz, was executed by Hahnel, an artist of Dresden. The 
 
 house where the celebrated composer was born is in the 
 
 Bonngasse. 
 
 The fountain-pillar in the market-place was erected in 
 1777 by the townspeople in honour of the Elector Max Fre- 
 derick, to whom the town was indebted for its university, 
 and for many acts of kindness and generosity. 
 
 gate on the $. E. side of the Munsterplatz leads into 
 the Hofgarten and the Poppelsdorfer Allee, the principal 
 promenade of the town, which consists of a quadruple row 
 of beautiful horse-chesnuts, */, M. in length. To the r. of 
 the avenue is the Railway Station, and beyond it to the 1. 
 the handsome new Observatory with its tower and six 
 smaller turrets. 
 
 At the extremity of the avenue is situated the Poppels- 
 dorfer Schloss, formerly a country residence of the Electors, 
 presented to the university by Fred. William III. It contains 
 the Natural history collection, consisting of upwards of 150,000: 
 specimens, among which the minerals and fossils are parti- 
 eularly worthy of inspection, as they serve to illustrate the 
 geology of the Rhine and the volcanic formation of the Seven 
 Mountains (R. 16) and Eifel (R. 33). The valuable Zoological 
 sabinet, in the rotunda, is also well arranged. The ‘‘Grotten- 
 saal”, or Grotto-hall, fitted up in the time of the Electors, 
 -ontains numerous models in explanation of mining operations, 
 of the Rhine, the Seven Mountains, &c., which may be 
 yurchased. The custodian’s lodge is on the 1. hand side of 
 the entrance (fee 7//, Sgr., for a party 15—20 Sgr.). The 
 Botanical Garden at the Schloss (open to the public on 
 Tuesdays and Fridays, at other times fee as above) is of 
 sonsiderable extent and well-kept; the large hot-houses de- 
 serve inspection. Opposite to it are the buildings of the 
 Agricultural Academy, with lecture-rooms, collections, and the 
 residence of the director. 
 
 Above the village of Poppelsdorf, */4, M. from the Schloss, 
 ‘ises the *Kreuzberg (400 ft.), surmounted by a white church 
 which forms a conspicnous object in the landscape. It be- 
 onged to a monastery erected here by the Elector Ferdinand 
 of Bavaria (d. 1650), which no longer exists, and contains 
 he so-called Holy Steps, of Italian marble (in the chapel behind 
 he altar) constructed by the Elector Clemens August (d. 1761). 
 These steps, 28 in number, must only be ascended on the 
 cnees, and are a duplicate of the sancta scalu at the Lateran 
 it Rome, superstitiously believed to be the identical steps of 
 he hall of the Pretorium at Jerusalem ascended by the 
 Saviour when he appeared before Pilate. A vault under the 
 
 | 
 
48 Route 15. KONIGSWINTER. 
 
 church presents a very ghastly spectacle. Here are preserved 
 the bodies of 25 monks, robed in the cassocks in which 
 they lived. They were the Servite monks belonging to the 
 monastery, whose corpses the peculiar dryness of the soil has} 
 preserved from decay. The tower commands a beautiful and 
 extensive view. 
 
 On returning from the Kreuzberg the road to the 1., about 
 half-way along the Poppelsdorf avenue, leads to the *Ceme- 
 tery, situated near the Sternenthor. (If the principal E. gate | 
 be closed, the visitor may gain admittance by a small gate 
 to the r.) | 
 
 Tombstones. By the wall on the r. Monument to Niebuhr (da. 1831), 
 erected by the late king Fred. William IV. to his “teacher and friend”. 
 Farther along the same walk, on the r., the monuments of Ernst von Schiller, | 
 the son, and of Charlotte von Lengefeld, the widow of the poet. The } 
 “Chapel in the middle of the cemetery is a beautiful little structure in the 
 
 late Romanesque style, built about the year 1200, and transferred in 1847 } 
 from Ramersdorf (s. below) to its present site. 
 
 15. The Rhine from Bonn to Remagen. 
 
 By railway in 40 min. — By steamboat in 13, hr. (down in 1 hr,); 
 piers at Bonn, Kénigswinter and Rolandseck; small-boat stations at Ober- 
 cassel, Plittersdorf (Godesberg) and Unkel. The steamboat is, on account 
 of the beauty of the scenery, far preferable to the railway. 
 
 Shortly after the steamboat has quitted Bonn, the beauty 
 of the scenery rapidly increases, and the imposing group of. 
 the Seven Mountains is approached. _ 1. Ramersdorf, with woods 
 in the background, was formerly a lodge of the knights of 
 the Teutonic order. The original building having been burned 
 down with the exception of the chapel, the latter, which was 
 unsuitable for the new structure, was taken down and sub- 
 sequently re-erected in the cemetery at Bonn. 
 
 1, Obercassel (*Zur Wolfsburg). On the Rabenlei in the 
 vicinity, a basalt quarry yields an excellent paving stone, the 
 so-called table-basalt. 
 
 r. Plittersdorf, stat. for Godesberg, situated 1 M. to the S.W. 
 
 1. Niederdollendorf, on the bank of. the river; Ober- 
 dollendorf, }/, M. inland, at the entrance. of the valley of | 
 Heisterbach (p. 201). 
 
 To the r. rises the handsome castle of Godesberg, situated 
 on an eminence, 1/4 M. from the Rhine. 
 
 r. Riingsdorf; the country residence. with. the tower: 
 belongs to M. Camphausen, Prussian minister in 1848. _. 
 
 1. Kénigewinter (146 ft.) (“European Hotel; *Berlin Hotel; 
 opp. to the pier, of the first cl., Cologne prices; * Hotel Rieffel,. 
 unpretending, near the N. end of the principal ‘street, R. and- 
 B.:16,-.D,) 198ar.3 *Dusseldorfer Hof, Pension, 1. Thir., per’ 
 
DRACHENFELS. 15. Route. 49 
 
 liem:, at *R. Schmitz’s, opp. to the floating baths; or at Bonn’s 
 
 ypp. the post-office, similar charges), is a small modern town, 
 
 ‘lean and well-to-do, inhabited principally by stone-cutters, and 
 
 t favourite resort of the inhabitants of Bonn and Cologne. 
 
 Che railway stat. Mehlem (p. 51) is on the opposite bank, about 
 
 i M. from the river. Excursions among the Seven Mountains 
 e R. 16. Omnibus to Honnef 5 Ser. 
 
 EPostaveet, Travelling-bag from the steamboat into the town 2!/,,, to 
 ‘lonnef (p. 56) 5 Sgr., tr unk into the town 2! /, to Honnef 6 Sgr. Guide 
 lo the Drachenfels to carry small packages 71/,, to Heisterbach or Petersberg 8, 
 o the Oelberg, Lowenburg or other hills 12'/,; for half a day 10, for a whole 
 lay 20 Sgr. The guides are forbidden by the police to demand fees or re- 
 | reshment-money in addition to the above charges. 
 
 : Donkeys. (Stand on the road to the Drachenfels, !/, M. to the E. of the 
 ‘teamboat pier). Drachenfels or Wolkenburg 10, Drachenfels and Wolken- 
 vurg 15, Heisterbach 15, Petersberg 15, Loéwenburg 20, Oelberg 20, Oelberg 
 ind Heisterbach 25 Sgr., for a whole day 1 Thlr. 5 Sgr. If the traveller 
 -emain 1—2 hrs. at any of the above places, 5 Sgr. must be paid in addition 
 o the above icharges for the ride back, for every additional hour 21/4 Ser 
 'f the donkey be brought to the door of the traveller’s hotel, 2'4 Ser. extra 
 is charged. ‘The guides and donkey-boys are strictly prohibited from de- 
 nanding any additional fee. 
 
 l. The castle of Drachenfels (dragon’s rock), situated 
 355 ft. above the level of the Rhine, was newly erected by 
 ‘Arnold, Archbishop of Cologne at the commencement of the 
 2th cent., and was held as a fief from him by the counts 
 of the castle. Henry, Count of Drachenfels (d. 1348), made 
 im agreement with the chapter of the cathedral of Cologne to 
 supply them with the stone of which the cathedral is constructed; 
 yhe quarry still bears the name of Dombruch, or Cathedral 
 juarry. The wine yielded by the vineyards on its slopes is 
 known by the appellation of Drachenblut, or Dragon’s blood. 
 n the 30 Years’ war the half-ruined castle was occupied by 
 whe Swedes, but was taken from them by the Duke Ferdinand 
 f Bavaria, Elector of Cologne, who completed its destruction 
 o avoid the necessity of placing a garrison in it. 
 
 The cavern among the vineyards, which is visible from 
 the Rhine about half-w ay up the hill on the side facing the 
 iver, is said once to have housed the dragon, slain by Sieg- 
 ried, the hero from the Low Countries, who, having bathed 
 limself in its blood, became invulnerable. 
 
 The ascent of the Drachenfels is best accomplished from 
 XOnigswinter, and occupies about 50 min. The road (guide 
 |yuite unnecessary) leads between the two hotels straight to 
 whe foot of the hill (7 min.), where, at the donkey-station, 
 it turns off at a right angle, and is, at the commence- 
 nent, somewhat steep. About half-way up a booth is reached, 
 where minerals found in the vicinity may be purchased. 
 A little farther on, the path divides. They both lead to the 
 op; that to the r. round the rock with view of the Rhine, 
 
 BaEDEKER’S Rhine. 4 
 
HQ Route 13. DRACHENFELS. From Bon 
 
 the old path to the 1. through wood. ‘The “inn at the 
 summit has sleeping accommodation for about 20 persons a 
 20 Ser. each; B. 714, Sgr.; board and lodging at 1%, Thing 
 
 S| 
 
 per diem. @ 
 
 The obelisk near the top was erected in 1857 to replacé 
 an old monument to Prussian gre who fell during the” 
 passage of the Rhine in 1814, and records the gratitude of} 
 the nation for the 42 years of pene which has. since then} 
 been vouchsafed to them. 
 
 The summit commands one of the noblest prospects on, 
 the Rhine; to the E. are seen several of the seven peaks, to | 
 the S.E. the basaltic heights at the back of Homnef, amongl 
 others the Minderberg (p. 68) and the Hemmerich (p. d3)% 
 which gradually slope to the plain of the Rhine. Immediately” 
 beneath, on the r. bank, lie the villages of Rhondorf, Honnef, 
 Rheinbreitbach, Unkel, and Erpel; on the |. bank Remagen 
 and the Gothic church on the Apollinarisberg, and in thé 
 background the heights of the Eifel with the ruins of Olbrick 
 and 'Tomberg; in the vicinity are Oberwinter, the islands of 
 Grafenwerth and Nonnenwerth, the arched ruin of Rolandseck, 
 and near it the farmhouse of Roderberg. Farther to the r. the) 
 Kreuzberg, Bonn, and even Cologne are visible. a 
 
 “The castled crag of Drachenfels 
 Frowus o’er the wide and winding Rhine, 
 Whose breast of waters broadly swells 
 Between the banks which bear the vine; 
 And hills all rich with blossom’d trees, 
 Ana@ fields which promise corn and wine, 
 And scatter’d cities crowning these, 
 Whose far white walls along” them shine, 
 Have strew’d a scene which I should see 
 With double joy wert thow with me. 
 
 “And peasant girls with deep blue eyes, 
 
 And hands which offer early flowers, 
 Walk smiling o’er this paradise; 
 Above, the frequent feudal towers 
 Through green leaves lift their walls of gray, 
 And many a rock which steeply lowers, 
 And noble arch in proud decay, 
 Look o’er this vale of vintage bowers; 
 
 3at one thing want these banks of Rhine — 
 Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine! 
 
 ‘“The river nobly foams and flows, 
 The charm of this enchanted ground, 
 And all its thousand turns disclose 
 Some fresher beauty varying round: 
 The haughtiest breast its wish might bound, 
 Through “life to dwell delighted here; 
 Nor could on earth a spot “be found 
 To nature and to me so dear, 
 Could thy dear eyes in following mine 
 Still-sweeten moore these banks of Rhine!” 
 
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to Remagen. ROLANDSECK. 15. Route. *51 
 
 r. Mehlem (Stern; MKrone; Goldenes Schiff, on the Rhine 
 with garden, pension 1 Thlr.) was the birthplace of the 
 celebrated artist of the Cologne school, John of Mehlem. 
 Railway stat. and flying bridge to Kénigswinter (see p. 48). 
 
 r. Rolandseck (steamboat and railway stat. *Hétel Ro- 
 landseck; * Roland’s Hotel, also a hydropathic establishment; 
 * Hotel Billau, near the steamboat pier; * Railway-station re- 
 stuurant, charges all according to a fixed tariff; magnificent 
 view from the terrace. On the hill rises the solitary arch of 
 the ruin of Rolundseck, */,M. from the station; the path ascends 
 by the Hotel Roland (donkey 10 Sgr.). The *view from this 
 basaltic rock, 340 ft. above the Rhine, is less extensive than 
 that from the Drachenfels, but is still more picturesque, 
 
 as the Drachenfels itself, the Wolkenburg, and other wooded 
 
 heights of the Seven Mountains form the foreground of the land- 
 scape. In the distance, to the S., the castle of Olbrick is 
 visible. 
 
 The castle is believed to have been built by the knight Roland, peer of 
 France and paladin of Charlemagne, who fell in the battle of Ronceval. He 
 is called by Eginhard (the secretary of Charlemagne) the guardian of the 
 north coast, and his dominions are described as having extended to that part 
 of the Rhine where the mountains begin. The castle is mentioned in a do- 
 cument of 1040—1045 as Rulcheseck. In the time of the Archbishop Frederick 
 it was already a ruin, but was partly restored by him in 1120 to defend his 
 dominions against Henry 1V. The fortress stood till the close of the 15th 
 cent., when, in the contests between the deposed Archbishop Ruprecht of 
 the Palatinate assisted by Charles the Bold of Burgundy, and the Emperor 
 Frederick IlI., it fell entirely to decay. A beautiful legend is connected with 
 th castle and convent, which probably suggested Schiller’s ‘* Ritter Toggen- 
 burg’. It may be thus briefly narrated: 
 
 The brave knight Roland, whilst scouring the Rhine in search of ad- 
 venture, found himself the guest of Count Heribert, the lord of the Seven 
 Mountains, at his castle of Drachenburg. According to the custom of the 
 times, the daughter of the host, the peerless Hildegunde, welcomed him with 
 the offering of bread, wine and fish. Her beauty rivetted the gaze of the 
 ardent young knight, and Hildegunde and Roland were shorly affianced 
 lovers; but, as the course of true love never did run smooth, an interruption 
 soon came to their happiness. Roland was summoned by Charlemagne io 
 the crusade. Time sped on, and anxiously did Hildegunde await the return 
 of her betrothed; but instead of his arrival sad rumours came. The brave 
 Roland was said to have fallen by the hands of the Infidels, and the world 
 no longer possessing any charm for the inconsolable Hildegunde, she took 
 refuge in the ‘‘Kloster” in the adjacent island of Nonnenwerth. The rumours, 
 however, of the death of her betrothed were unfounded. Though desperately 
 wounded, he recovered and hastened to the halls of Drachenburg to claim his 
 bride, but instead of being welcomed back by that fondly remembered smile, 
 he found that his love was for ever lost to him. In despair he built the 
 castle, of which one crumbling arch alone remains, and there in solitude he 
 lived, catching an occasional glimpse of a fair form passing to and fro to 
 her devotions in the little chapel of the Kloster. At length he missed her, 
 and soon the tolling of the bell and a mournful procession couveyed to him 
 the heart-rending intelligence that his beloved Hildegunde was now indeed 
 removed from him for ever. From that moment Roland never spoke again; 
 for a short time he dragged on his wretched existence, but his heart was 
 broken, and one morning his sole attendant found him rigid and lifeless, his 
 glassy eye still turned towards the convent-chapel. 
 
 Ag 
 
52 Route 19. OBERWINTER. 
 
 The new tower, 1/, M. to the W. of the ruin, affords a 
 more extended prospect, comprising Godesberg, the lower hills 
 of the Seven Mts., and the plain between Bonn and Cologne, 
 which are not visible from Rolandseck. The key of the tower 
 may be procured from the proprietor, Herr vom Rath, who 
 lives opposite to Roland’s Hotel. About 14, M. from the tower 
 is situated the Roderberg, a crater, ¥%, M. in diameter and 
 60 ft. in depth. On the rounded margin of this erater the 
 pumice-stone is everywhere visible; the bottom is now con- 
 verted into arable land, belonging to the farm-house of Bruch- 
 hof, which lies in the middle. The building on the island 
 of Nonnenwerth, or Rolandswerth, was once a nunnery, the 
 date of whose foundation reaches back to the ages of tra- 
 dition. It is first mentioned in a document of the 12th cent. 
 The old building was burned down in 1673, since which date 
 the present was erected. In 1802 the nunnery was suppressed 
 by Napoleon, and would have suffered the fate of the other 
 religious establishments which fell into his hands but for the 
 interposition of Josephine, who procured permission for the 
 nuns to retain possession of their loved island, though no 
 addition to the sisterhood was allowed. The building has since 
 gone through many vicissitudes and passed into various hands; 
 it is now an educational estab., conducted by Franciscan nuns. 
 
 On the wide plain to the 1. lie the villages of Rhéndor/, 
 Honnef, Rheinbreitbach, and Scheuern. 
 
 r. Oberwinter (Fassbender) once belonged to the Duchy 
 of Julich. The retrospective view from this point is one of 
 the finest on the Rhine. Rolandseck and the Drachenfels with 
 its ruined castle, the rugged cliffs of the Wolkenburg and 
 the entire range» (upwards of 30) of the peaks of the Seven 
 Mountains, at the r. extremity of which is the flattened 
 summit of the Lowenburg surmounted by a ruin (the isolated 
 sharp peak still farther to the r. is the Hemmerich), form a 
 mountain chain of incomparable beauty, whilst the lovely is- 
 land of Nonnenwerth and the grand river itself constitute the 
 foreground of the picture. 
 
 In 1846 a considerable landslip took place on the bank 
 opp. to Unkel. One half of a hill (the Birgeler Kopf) moved 
 down towards the Rhine; the barren, rugged walls of the 
 other portion show distinctly where the slip took place, and 
 the otherwise regular strata of basalt have been dislodged 
 from their original position. 
 
 1, Unkel (Clasen; steamboat stat.), a handsome village, 
 ‘between which and Remagen the Rhine describes a wide curve; | 
 both banks are studded with handsome country residences. 
 Below the Apollinarisberg to the r. a railway is seen emerging 
 
SEVEN MOUNTAINS. 16. Route. 53 
 from the hills, which conveys the basalt from the quarries to 
 the river. 
 
 r. Remagen and the Apollinarisberg see R. 18 
 
 16. The Seven Mountains (Siebengedirge). 
 
 One day suffices to visit the most remarkable and beautiful points in 
 this district, unless the tourist travel for geological purposes. Kdnigswinter 
 is assumed as the starting point; to Heister bach 3 M., to the Great Oelberg 
 3°/, M., to the Drachenfels (p. 49) 33/, M., thence to Kdnigswinter 1'/, M., 
 altogether 1 12 M. Charges for Seles *and donkeys see p. 49. Guide not 
 absolutely necessary if the map and the following directions be consulted. 
 
 The district of the Seven Mountains extends E. from the 
 Rhine little more than 3 M., and is from N. to S. about 9 M. 
 in length, Konigswinter being the central point of the W. side. 
 It consists of a group of peaks, cones and long extended 
 ridges of rounded forms, and is covered partly with high- 
 wood, partly with luxuriant herbage. They are all the result 
 of voleanic agency and have been upheaved through the 
 grauwacke rocks. 
 
 “Is cousequence of a powerful but local force in the interior of our 
 planet, elastic gases either force up dome-shaped and unopened masses of 
 trachyte mixed with felspar and dolerite (Puy de Déme, Seven Mountains) 
 throu; gh the earth’s crust, or the raised strata are so broken through and 
 inclined outwards that on the opp. inner sides a steep wall of rocks is formed.” 
 
 HUMBOLD?’. 
 
 The Seven Mountains consist partly of trachyte (Drachen- 
 
 fels 1001 ft., Wolkenburg 1009 ft., Lohrberg 1355 ft.), partly of 
 
 basalt, a more recent formation th 1an trachyte (Oelberg 1429 ft., 
 Léwenbury, consists of dolerite, 1413 ft.; Nornendicombers a 
 ridge 300 yds. in length, 1036 ft.; Petersberg 1027 ft.). These 
 seven peaks, from which the mountains derive their name, are 
 seen simultaneously only in the neighbourhood of Cologne; as 
 Bonn is approached the Léwenburg is hidden by the Nonnen- 
 stromberg. Besides these seven summits there are also many 
 others, such as the sugar-loaf shaped Hemmerich (1114 ft.), 
 consisting of trachyte, which overtops the lower mountains of 
 the S$. side, the Rosenaw (999 ft.) and the Stenzelberg (886 ft.), 
 which adjoins the Nonnenstromberg on the N. The surface 
 of the Rhine at Konigswinter is 146 ft. above the level of th 
 sea, so that the different heights of the mountain tops above 
 the Rhine may easily be calculated. The view from the 
 
 ia?) 
 
 Drachenfels is the most picturesque, that from the Oel- 
 
 berg the most extensive (comprising even the ‘Taunus), 
 For the geologist a tour through this district presents many 
 objects of interest (see above), for the botanist fewer. The 
 former should not omit to provide himself with the admirable 
 panties map of this district by H. v. Dechen (proportion 
 > 25,000). 
 
54 Route 16. 2 & PETERSBERG. % The Seven 
 
 A much frequented path leads from Konigswinter half-way 
 up the Petersberg (1027 ft.) (the chapel on the summit com- 
 mands a fine view; near it a *restaurant), then round the 
 W. and N. slopes of the hill, chiefly through wood, to 
 “Heisterbach, once a Cistercian Abbey, beautifully situated 
 in a mountain ravine. The gate through which the visitor 
 enters the avenue of fruit-trees still bears the arms of the 
 abbey, a Heister (young oak) and a Bach (brook); at the side 
 stand St. Benedictine and St. Bernhard (comp. R. 84) as 
 guardians. Of the Romanesque church only the external part 
 of the high-choir, with its slender and elegant basaltic pillars, 
 is still extant, forming a singularly picturesque ruin. The 
 Abbey was originally a magnificent building, erected in 
 1202—1233, but was sold and almost entirely pulled down 
 about 60 years ago. The blocks of trachyte of which it 
 consisted were employed in the construction of the locks on 
 the North Canal (R. 54). Some of the finest old German pictures 
 in the Pinakothek of Munich were formerly brought from the 
 church of Heisterbach. Refreshments may be procured at the 
 farm-buildings. The whole of the abbey-lands are the property 
 of the Count zur Lippe whose family burial-ground is at the 
 foot of the hill. 
 
 The path to the Great Oelberg turns to the r. by the KE. 
 wall of the Abbey, */, M. farther to the r. again, and after 
 1, M. more the Stenzelberg (886 ft.) is reached, where the 
 most extensive quarries of trachyte in the Seven Mts. are 
 worked. The stone is columnar and almost always arranged 
 in perpendicular masses, but is far inferior in elegance and 
 regularity to the basaltic columns (p. 68). 
 
 The path to the 1., which leaves the road a little farther 
 on, must now be taken; it soon emerges from the wood, and 
 crosses the fields to a red house, the school of Heisterbucherrott. 
 The broad road to the r. must now be taken and the wood 
 is soon re-entered; 3 M. from Heisterbach the foot of the hill 
 is reached, at the point where our path joins the Kénigswinter 
 road (see p. 55). Here the turning to the 1. must be taken, 
 and a steep winding path will bring the pedestrian to the top 
 in about 20 min. The *Great Oelberg (1429 ft.) is a basaltic 
 mountain through which the trachyte has been upheayed. The 
 prospect from the summit is the most extensive on the lower 
 Rhine, and the foreground is at the same time highly picturesque, 
 differing in many respects from the view from the Drachen- 
 fels. The entire wooded tract of the Seven Mountains lies 
 like a raised map before the eye of the spectator, the Rhine 
 is seen glittering between the valleys which intersect its banks, 
 and its course may be traced as far as Cologne; in the 
 
sors ysybug? — 
 
 Lt = ——————— 
 
 Ws SS aes SS 
 
 } 
 PS 
 
 * } 
 
 nN 
 
Mountains. LOWENBURG. 16. Route. 55 
 
 distance to the S. the Taunus, and to the N.E. the heights 
 
 in the neighbourhood of Disseldorf bound the prospect. 
 
 From the Oelberg to Kénigswinter 3%/,M. The above-mentioned 
 road, which the road from Heisterbach joins at the foot of the hill, leads in 
 a W. direction straight to Kénigswinter. About half-way, two broad tracks 
 dliverge to the 1., leading to the quarries of the Ofenkaulen- berg, which yield 
 the so-called oven-stone, a trachyte conglomerate. 
 
 After descending from the summit of the Oelberg, the road 
 continues in a8. direction to St. Margarethenkreuz (St. Margaret's 
 cross) ('/, M.), a hamlet which derives its name from a cross 
 decorated with a relief of St. Margaret with a crucifix and 
 the enchained dragon. 
 
 From the Oelberg to the Drachentels. About 100 yds. to the S. 
 of the Cross of St. Margaret a path through the wood diverges from the road 
 to the r. and leads in a W. direction along the N. brow of the mountain-chain 
 to the Drachenfels, about 3 M. distant. The path, which finally passes the 
 quarries of the Wolke nburg and turns to the |. on the S. side of that hill, 
 cannot be missed. 
 
 Following the road from St. Margaret’s Cross in a 8S. 
 direction, the village of Lahr is reached ('/, M.), at the first 
 houses of which the path to the r. must be ascended, then 
 the first path to the |. between two houses, then for 1/, M. 
 along the heights. The. path now descends to the r. into a 
 narrow pass between the Lohrberg (1355 ft.) on the r., and 
 the Scheerkopfchen (1215 ft.), the largest mass of trachyte in 
 the Seven Mts., to the 1.; 34M. farther is the Lowenburger 
 Hof, where refreshments may be procured, situated 100 yds. 
 from the Rhondorf road, and 300 yds. from the summit of 
 the *Léwenburg (1413 ft.), a ruin on a wooded peak con- 
 sisting of dolerite, a volcanic product which must have been 
 ejected in a liquid state, and now lies above the trachyte and 
 grauwacke. The castle, the extensive ruins of which are 
 visible from the Rhine, was once the scene of the conferences 
 which Hermann, Elector of Cologne and Count of Wied, held 
 with the reformers Melancthon and Bucer, before he became 
 a convert to Protestantism. Here, too, in the troublous times 
 of 1585, the Elector Gebhard, Truchsess of Waldburg, resided 
 with his consort, the beautiful Countess Agnes von Mansfeld, 
 whom he had abducted from the convent of Gerresheim. The 
 summit commands a fine view. 
 
 The way from the Lowenburger Hof to Rhéndorf (3 M.) 
 cannot be missed. It descends gradually through a narrow, 
 and sometimes swampy mountain dale, and is shaded by groves 
 of oaks and beeches. The heights which bound the path on 
 the N. are the Geisberg, Schullerber y, Bolverhahn, and finally 
 the Wolkenburg and Drachenfels, all of which are composed 
 of trachyte. The ancient fortress which once stood on the 
 Wolkenburg has long since given place to the quarries on the 
 'N. side. Rhéndorf (Beu/) is 1 M. distant from Konigswinter, 
 
56 Route 17. RHEINBREITBACH. 
 
 and the same distance from Honnef (see below). On the side 
 wall of the small church of Rhondorf is a well preserved 
 tombstone of the last knight of Drachenfels, with coat of arms, 
 and the date 1530, brought from the old Abbey of Heisterbach. 
 
 In the rich and fruitful plain, 11/4, M. broad and 3 M. long, 
 which lies between the Seven Mts. and the Rhine, are situated 
 the flourishing villages of Rheinbreitbach, Honnef, and Rhéndorf. 
 The mildness of the climate and the beauty of the country 
 attract numerous visitors to this district in summer, especially 
 to Honnef, which is gradually becoming the Interlaken of 
 the Rhine. Besides a number of country residences which have 
 here sprung up of late, there are several boarding houses: 
 *Dr. de Berghes at Honnef, pension 1144—114 Thir.; Hoétel 
 Klein (D. exc. W. 15 Sgr.), Zum Siebengebirge, both good and 
 moderate inns; Clouth, at Rheinbreitbach (pension 1 Thlr. 
 and upwards). 
 
 Excursions from Rheinbreitbach: to the Breitbacher Kreuz, near 
 the village, commanding a pleasing view; to the *Haanenburg 
 (214, M.), property of a merchant of Cologne, by a broad path 
 through the vineyards, fine view from the top of the tower, 
 and beautiful walk back, round the building and over the Heide- 
 kamm; to the “Giants’ Graves” (Htinengraber), 114 M. from 
 Honnef. Near the Haanenburg are the copper mines of Marien- 
 bery, and 11/, M. farther N. the copper and lead mines of the 
 Virneberg, once worked by the Romans. From the Virneberg 
 a path throngh a fir-wood leads to Farinasruhe and thence to 
 the Menzenberg (11/4, M.). 
 
 Excursions from Honnef. One of the most delightful is a 
 walk of 2 hrs., by the farmhouse of Zicklenburg, to Menzenberg, 
 the slopes of which yield the best red wine of the district, 
 past the Hager Hof, a large farmhouse, by the foothpath to 
 Rheinbreitbach and back to Honnef by the road. A shorter 
 walk (1'/, M.) may be taken to Menzenberg, passing the vine- 
 yards of the so-called Hayer Képpelehen (fine view). The 
 churchyard of Honnef also commands a pleasing prospect. — 
 The Lowenburg (p. 55) is best ascended from Honnef (31/, M.), 
 as the path to it offers a succession of beautiful views. Way 
 back from the Lowenburg by Rhéndorf (3%, M.) to Honnef 
 (1 M.) see p. 59d. 
 
 17. The Valley of the Ahr. 
 Comp. Map R. 15. 
 
 Distances. From Remagen to Ahrweiler 9M. (Bodendorf 3, Heppingen 3, 
 Ahrweiler 3) from Ahrweiler to Altenahr 71/,M. Diligence several times 
 a day in. 1’,;hr. Carriage from Remagen to Altenahr and back, for 1—4 pers., 
 i-horse 3!%;, 2-horse 4'/, Thlr., inc. tolls and driver’s fee (comp. p. 61). 
 
LANDSKRON. 17. Route, 57 
 
 A footpath (41/4, M.), leading from Remagen to Heppingen, effects a 
 
 saving of 1'4 M. At the Apollinarisberg the turning to the J. must be taken, 
 leading through some quarries, and about 500 paces will bring the pedestrian 
 to the road. After !/,M. the turning to the r. must be taken, and the path 
 soon enters a copse, on emerging from which the Kéhlerhof (1!4 M.) lies 
 to the l. By proceeding in a straight direction, two new houses (1 M.) are 
 reached, where a road to the 1. leads to the Landskron (114, M.) and the 
 straight road to Heppingen (1'/, M.). 
 
 The full-flavoured dark red wines produced by the vineyards of the 
 valley of the Ahr, in good seasons upwards of 600,000 gallons (the most 
 celebrated are those of Walporzheim, Ahrweiler, and Bodendorf), are well- 
 known under the name of Ahrbleichert. 
 
 Millions of ‘““Rumpchen” (cyprinus phoxinus), small fish 1—2 in, in length, 
 are annually caught in the Ahr, boiled in saltwater, and packed in willow- 
 
 bark for exportation. They are served with vinegar and oil, and are esteemed 
 a great delicacy. 
 
 The Ahr rises at Blankenheim in the Eifel, traverses a 
 winding and generally narrow valley, 54 M. in length, and 
 falls into the Rhine below Sinzig. Near the wooden bridge 
 over the Ahr near Sinzig, the road which leads to the Ahr- 
 thal diverges from the main road to Coblenz and traverses an 
 open country, the hills which enclose the valley being as yet 
 low and far apart, passing the villages of Bodendorf, Lohrs- 
 dorf, Heppingen, Wadenheim, Hemmessem, and Ahrweiler. As 
 yet there is no trace of the wildness which characterizes the 
 upper part of the valley; the land is on the contrary fertile 
 and well-cultivated; the slopes exposed to the S. are covered 
 with vineyards, and the heights on the opposite bank with 
 wood. 
 
 The Landskron (856 ft.) is a basaltic peak which attains 
 a greater height than the other hills which bound the lower 
 part of the valley. The castle of Landskron, on the summit, 
 is said to have been founded in 1205 by Philipp the Hohen- 
 staufe, when on his way to be crowned at Aix-la-Chapelle, 
 that he might from this point carry on his hostilities against 
 the Archbishopric of Cologne, which supported the claims 
 of the Emperor Otto IV. The castle, in the 14th and 15th 
 centuries the property of a race of knights of the same name, 
 and in 1667 destroyed by the French. The richly endowed 
 chapel on the S.W. side of the summit has been spared; a 
 basaltic grotto serves as sacristy. Near it is a quantity of 
 massive basalt, curiously deposited above columnar basalt. The 
 view from the Landskron comprises the Ahrthal from Ahrweiler 
 to the Rhine, the higher peaks of the Seven Mountains, to the 
 S. part of the Eifel with the castle of Olbriick, and to the W. 
 the ruin of Tomberg near Meckenheim. Seen from the W. side, 
 from the road below, the hill with the white chapel and ruin 
 on the top is a very picturesque object in the landscape. 
 
 At the foot of the Landskron, on the S. side, lies the village 
 of Heppingen (3 M.), with two pleasant mineral springs. 
 
58 Route 17. AHRWEILER. The Valley 
 
 Near Wadenheim, 1i!4, M. farther, a new spring, the 
 Apollinarisbrunnen, was enclosed in 1853. On the opposite (r.) 
 bank of the Ahr are the Baths of Neuenahr, opened in 
 1858, and rapidly rising into importance. The supply of water 
 96—114° Fahr.) is abundant, and strongly resembles in its 
 component parts the springs of Ems, of which Neuenahr is 
 probably destined some day to be a formidable rival. This 
 water is especially efficacious in pulmonary complaints, gout, 
 and serofula. The bathing establishment, with which a pension 
 is combined, is replete with every comfort and convenience, 
 and the beauty and repose of the situation offer great attraction 
 to the traveller in search of retirement, as well as to the 
 yaletndinarian. On a lofty peak (1008 ft.), at the foot of which 
 the village of Beul and Bad Neuenahr lie, rises the Castle of 
 Neuenahr, destroyed as early as 1371, and once the seat of 
 a younger branch of the Counts von der Are, who became 
 extinct in the 16th cent. Ahrweiler is 214, M. distant from 
 Neuenahr or Wadenheim. The smal church of Heimersheim, 
 21/, M. to the KE. of Neuenahr, is, like that of Sinzig, built in 
 the late Romanesque style, and contains some old stained glass. 
 
 Ahrweiler (*Arone; *Stern; Bavarian beer at the restaurant 
 of J. Kreutzberg), a cheerful little town surrounded by old 
 walls. The Gothic church was founded in 1275 (the summit 
 of the tower and roof repaired subsequent to 1689), and the 
 town probably enclosed by walls about the same date. In 
 the feud between the chapter of the cathedral of Cologne and 
 the deposed Archbishop Ruprecht of the Palatinate the town 
 successfully stood a siege in 1473, and in a later feud between 
 the same chapter and the deposed Archbishop Gebhard, Ahr- 
 weiler sided with the former. In 1646 and 1689 it suffered 
 greatly from the devastations of the French, and on the latter 
 occasion was, with the exception of 10 houses, entirely burned 
 to the ground. A fine view may he obtained from the 
 Calvarienberg, an eminence 1/4 M. to the 8.,; surmounted by 
 an extensive building, formerly a Franciscan monastery, now 
 an Ursuline nunnery, and much frequented as an educational 
 establishment. 
 
 Near the entrance to the narrower part of the valley lies the 
 village of Walporzheim (St. Petrus) (°, M.), where the best Ahr- 
 wine is produced. The vineyards are kept with the utmost care. 
 
 A rocky ravine is now entered, penetrating the jagged and 
 
 cleft slate mountains; on the 1. rushes the Ahr, and on the™ 
 
 r. rises almost perpendicularly a black wall of slate-rock, from 
 which a single ridge called “die bunte Kuh” projects. To the r. of 
 
 the road are the ruins of the old nunnery of Marienthal (114, M.), =| 
 
 abandoned at the commencement of the French Revolution. 
 
of the Ahr. LOCHMUHLE, 17. Route. 59 
 
 | About °/, M. farther, before entering the village of Dernan, 
 }a footpath, far preferable to the dusty road, leads through 
 jthe valley, which here widens a little, along the bank of the 
 Ahr, passing an old stone bridge, which however must not 
 |be crossed, to the village of Rech (1 ¥, M.). Here the valley 
 again contracts. The river Ahr winds through a wild and 
 jrocky district, the road following its course, rounding the 
 |precipitous Saffenburg, and leading to Mayschoss (1 1/, M.) and 
 jthe Lochmiihle ('4, M.), where travellers may find tolerable 
 jaccommodation for the night. (S., R. and B. 22 Sgr.) 
 The pedestrian may, if he please, choose a different way 
 ifrom Rech to the Lochmiihle. Close to the bridge (on the r. 
 bank), a path ascends to the r. through the vineyards (closed 
 from the end of August till the middle of October) to the 
 ridge of the hill, the summit of which is occupied by the 
 fragments of the Saffenburg (794 ft.). It is related of the 
 \* brave” French commander of the castle, when it was besieged 
 m 1703 during the Spanish war of succession, that, when 
 summoned to surrender the place, he replied that he was not 
 ‘at all disinclined to do so, but begged that, to save his honour, 
 !hree cannon-shots should first be discharged against the castle. 
 jdis wish was complied with, and he was then enabled “honour- 
 libly” to zevacuate the castle, which was blown up in the 
 yollowing year. On the W. side of the Saffenburg the path 
 lescends rapidly and joins the road at the bridge of Mayschoss, 
 jlose to the Lochmiihle (Inn, see above). [From the bridge at 
 Rech over the Saffenburg to the Lochmihle is a walk of about 
 ‘) min.; by the road by Mayschoss a few min. more. | 
 Near the Lochmuhle is a cutting in the rock, the walls of 
 rauwacke being 40 ft. in height, beyond which the hamlets 
 f Lach and Reimerzhofen are reached, and a little farther on, 
 he road passes through a tunnel, 92 yds. in length, on emerging 
 rom which the clean little village of Altenahr (Caspar?; 
 \Vinckler) comes in sight. 
 | It is, however, far preferable to leave the road at Reimers- 
 libfen, 1M. from the Lochmihle, and follow the footpath which 
 /scends through the vineyards (closed during the vintage-season), 
 eading to the Cross (15 min.) which is visible from the road. 
 )t stands on a rocky ridge, 350 ft. above the stream, and 
 ommands the finest *view in the whole valley, surpassing 
 lat from the castle of Altenahr, as the latter itself forms 
 ie foreground of the wild and rocky landscape. The path 
 fescends on the other side of the hill to Altenuhr (8 min. walk), 
 assing a decayed gate-way which forms the entrance to the 
 astle of Altenahr. The latter is perched like an eagle’s nest 
 a the summit of a grand and rugged wall of rock, 348 ft. 
 
 a 
 
60 . Route 17. ADENAU, 
 
 above the village, and was once the seat of the powerful 
 Counts of the Are and Hostaden or Hochsteden. Conrad, 
 Archbishop of Cologne, the last of the elder branch of the 
 family, laid the foundation-stone of the cathedral of Cologne 
 in 1248. The castle fell into the hands of the French in 1690, 
 was occupied by a Bavarian garrison in the Spanish war of 
 succession, and finally, in consequence of the peace of Utrecht 
 (1714) was blown up, like the castles of Saffenburg and the 
 Landskron, to prevent its becoming a harbour for robbers. 
 Admission 3Sgr., or for a single visitor 5 Sgr.; the custodian 
 is generally at the ruin, but it is safer to inquire for him in 
 the village. 
 
 One of the finest points of view is the *Horn, above 
 Altenahr; to Altenburg 15 min., thence to the pavilion with 
 guide an ascent of 45 min. 
 
 The short distance between the “bunte Kuh” and Altenahr 
 is undoubtedly by far the most beautiful part of the valley, 
 which, however, offers many fine points of view above Altenahr 
 (diligence from Altenahr to Adenau daily in 2 hrs.). One of 
 the best views is obtained from the bridge over the Ahr; 
 
 farther on, to the 1, are the rugged rocks of the ‘Teufels- | 
 
 kanzel” (Devil’s Pulpit) and then the grand mass of rocks know! 
 
 by the name of the Old Castle. The bright-looking castle, | 
 d Ss 5S 
 
 picturesquely situated on a rugged peak near Kreuzberg is 
 a private residence. At Diimpelfeld, 6 M. from Altenahr, 
 the road leaves the Ahr, and leads in a straight direction to 
 Adenau (*Halber Mond), the principal village of the district, 
 in the vicinity of which are the two highest points of the 
 Eifel, the basaltic peaks of Nurburg (2118 ft.), 414, M. to the 
 S., surmounted by a ruined castle with a lofty tower, and 
 the *Hohe Acht (2340 ft.), 6 M. to the E., the latter of 
 which commands an extensive and magnificent view over the 
 
 whole of the Hifel as far as the mountains of the Rhine, 
 
 and even the cathedral of Cologne. Near the top there is 
 a small hut for protection against the weather. The guide from 
 Adenau, provided with a telescope, 10 Sgr. The traveller 
 may, if he please, drive nearly to the summit of the Hohe 
 Acht (in 11/4 hr, charge 2', Thir.). From the Hohe Ach# 
 N.E. to Kaltenborn 3 M., to Leimbach 3 M., to Kempenich 
 (Comanns) 3°/,M. From here the castle of Olbrick is 3°/, Mi 
 
 distant (to the N.E.), the Laacher See (R. 19) 101, M., bute 
 
 the road is uninteresting. Carriage from Adenau over thé 
 Hohe Acht to Laach and Andernach 7 Thir.; from the Hohé 
 Acht to Kempenich 2 hrs., to Laach 2 hrs., thence to Ans 
 dernach in 11, hr., the whole drive occupying. 6! hrs. Oe 
 
 . 
 
 a carriage may be taken from Adenau over the Hohe Ach# 
 
 c 
 
LEMAGEN. 18. Route. 61 
 
 by Virneburg and Mayen (R. 19) 
 fare 6 Thir. From the Hohe Ach 
 Mayen is a walk of about 15 M. 
 
 On the Ahr itself, which the road leaves at Diimpelfeld 
 (see p. 60), there are two other fine points, at Schuld, 3 M. 
 to the W. of Diimpelfeld, and at Antweiler (Neubusch), near 
 | which are situated the ruins of the castle of Aremberg, once 
 | seat of the Dukes of Aremberg. Antweiler lies 6 M. to the 
 W. of Adenau. 
 
 to Andernach in 4¥, hrs., 
 t by Virneburg (Miller) to 
 
 i8. The Rhine from Remagen to Coblenz. 
 
 Comp, Map R. 15. 
 
 Distance from Remagen to Sinzig 3 M., Nieder - Breisig 2!/, M., Brohl 
 | 2/, M., Andernach 4'/, M., Neuwied 3 M.. Coblenz M., total 24 M. — By 
 
 9 
 railway, see R. 36, in 1 hr.; fares: 30, 221/, and 15 Sgr. — By steamboat 
 
 (fares: 16 or 10 Sgr.) in 3'4 hrs. (down in 2 hrs.); piers at Remagen and 
 Neuwied; small-boat stations at Linz, Niederbreisig, Brohl, Leutesdorf, Ander- 
 
 nach, Urmitz aud Engers. The steamboat is far preferable to the railway 
 on account of the beauty of the scenery. 
 
 Remagen (* Hotel Firstenberg, R. 15—20.,, B..8, D. 20, 
 A. 5 Sgr.; *Kénig von Preussen; * Hotel Monjau), steamboat 
 and railway stat. — Tariff of charges for carriages fixed by 
 | the police (inc. tolls and fees): to Ahrweiler 1-horse 1 1}, This, 
 2-horse 2 Thlr., the drive back 20 Sgr. or 1 Thlr.; to Alten- 
 pahr 2144—3 Thlr., drive back 20 Sgr.—1¥, Thlr., if the 
 |carriage be kept for the whole, day 4—5', Thir.; Laacher 
 “See and back (1 day) 3—4°%, Thir., or by Andernach 4— 
 6 Thir. These charges are mentioned in such detail as 
 ‘Remagen is the best place for head-quarters between Bonn 
 fand Coblenz for making excursions. 
 
 The small town of Remagen was known to the Romans 
 fas Rigomagus. A milestone bearing the date 162, found in 
 1763 when the high road was in course of construction, 
 records that the old Roman road which formerly passed here 
 was begun under the Emperors M. Aurelius and L. Verus. 
 ‘It indicates the distance from Cologne as being 30,000 Passus, 
 which is tolerably correct. Several of these stones are ex. 
 hibited in the museum at Bonn. 
 | The choir of the Church was, as an inscription on the 
 outer door records, erected in 1246. The interior contains 
 ‘several old frescoes. The churchyard-wall, next to the exterior 
 fof the W. side of the choir, consists of Roman concrete- 
 masonry. 
 
 The Portal next to the Rom. Cath. parsonage is worthy 
 of inspection. The grotesque sculptures which it bears are 
 Very ancient, and are interpreted as signifying that the animals 
 
62 Route 78. APOLLINARISBERG. From Remagen 
 
 and persons they represent are excluded from the sacred 
 edifice. 
 
 Below Remagen, en an eminence on the road-side rises 
 the * Apollinarisberg, a beautiful Gothic church, erected by} 
 the Count of Firstenberg-Stammheim (d. 1859), under the| 
 direction of Zwirner, the late eminent architect of the cathedral | 
 of Cologne. The old building in front of the church was| 
 formerly a rich deanery of Siegburg, much resorted to by} 
 pilgrims. The church, which is a perfect gem in its way, 1s | 
 open daily from 9/, to 12, and 2 to 4 o’elock; on Saturdays | 
 aud the eves of festivals from 91/4, to 12, and from 2 to 4.| 
 Admission on Sundays and holidays 2, Sgr. It is adorned | 
 with 10 large frescoes in the best style of German art, The| 
 view, from this point, of the Rhine from Honningen to 
 Kénigswinter, and the Seven Mountains in the background 1s 
 one of singular beauty. 
 
 * *Freseoes. On the 1. on entering the church, representations from) 
 the life of the Saviour; on the r. scenes from the life of the Virgin. In the 
 transept to the S., St. Apollinaris consecrated bishop, and miraculous resus | 
 citation of a girl; on the N., destruction of idols, death and glorification of | 
 the saint, and a Crucifixion, In the choir on the r., coronation of the Virgin, 
 on the 1. the Resurrection. In the choir-niche the Saviour with Mary 
 and John the Baptist, St. Peter and St. Apollinaris with the four Evangelists.) 
 — The crypt contains the old sarcophagus of the saint, belonging to the) 
 14th cent., and surmounted by a modern statue. 
 
 Opposite to Remagen, near Erpel, rises the Lrpeler Let 
 (625 ft.), a basaltic cliff, the quarries of which are the most 
 profitable on the Rhine, as the stone is at once transferred) 
 to the vessels on the river. The columns, however, do not) 
 present the same elegance as those of the Minderberg and 
 Dattenberg quarries (p. 63). Above Erpel lies (1.) Kasbach, 
 surmounted by the ivy-clad ruins of Ockenfels, then Linzer- 
 hausen. 
 
 (l.) Linz (*Nassauer Hof), an ancient walled town which 
 formerly belonged to the Electorate of Cologne ‘The fine 
 old church in the round-arch style, dating from the beginning 
 of the 13th cent., contains an admirable picture painted im 
 1463 , representing the Annunciation and Crucifixion on the 
 outer wings, the Annunciation and Coronation of the Virgin 
 on the inner, and the Nativity, Adoration, Presentation in the 
 Temple &c., in the centre compartment. The picture hag 
 recently been cleaned and retouched. The churchyard conie 
 mands a fine view to the S. W., in the direction of the 
 confluence of the Ahr with the Rhine; the round tower of 
 the castle of Olbrack stands out on a mountain peak in the 
 distance. ‘The environs of Linz yield a considerable quantity 
 of red wine, and during the vintage the little town is the 
 central point of the busy scene. 
 
to Bonn. ARENFELS. 18. Route. 63 
 
 The extensive *Basalt Quarries at Datienberg and on the Minderbery 
 near Linz well deserve inspection, especially the latter. he road to the 
 Minderberg ascends the valley to the I., leading to the Sternerhiitte. 
 copper, vitriol, and zine works. (Near it is a castle of the Prince of Salm- 
 IXyrburg; above it the Renneberg with a tower on the summit). From the 
 Sternerhutte the path ascends to the |. and the quarry soon comes in view. 
 It is a spacious hall of the most beautiful black prismatic basaltic pillars, 
 some of them upright, others heaped together in confused masses, varying 
 from 8 to 10 inches in diameter, and sometimes attaining a length of 20 ft. ; 
 when struck they produce a clear imetallic ring. ‘These masses resemble 
 numerous charcoal piles closely crowded together, and form a huge wall, 
 suggesting by its beauty the celebrated Fingal’s Cave in the island of Staffa. 
 The *view from this height (1328 ft.) is considered by many to equal that 
 from the Oelberg (p. 54), The pedestrian is recommended to return by the 
 Hasbachthal; guide unnecessary; should he be in doubt, he may ask the 
 way at the large farm-house on the hill. The whole circuit may be made 
 from Linz in about 3 hrs, 
 
 The columns in the quarry of Dattenb erg (1'4 M. from Linz) are as 
 high as those in the quarry of Minderberg, but much thicker and more 
 massive. A fine view is obtained from the foot of the ruined castle in the 
 grounds of Herr von Mengershausen, of the windings of the Ahr, with the 
 basaltic peak of the Landskron (p. 57) in the background. 
 
 The stone yielded by these quarries is admirably adapted for pavements 
 and the foundations of buildings, but, as it attracts moisture, is unsuitable 
 for the upper parts. It is exported in large quantities to Holland, where it 
 is employed in the construction of dykes. 
 
 To the E. of Linz rises the Hummelsbery (1345 ft.), on the 
 summit of which stands a cross, erected by the burghers of 
 Linz in commemoration of the battle of Leipzig. Another 
 cross on the Kaisersberg, nearer the Rhine, was erected in 
 1840 to commemorate the battle of Belle-Aliance. On both 
 
 of these hills are also productive basalt quarries. 
 
 From the village of (r.) Krippe on the Rhine a path leads 
 
 ) past the manor of Godenhaus to the Mineral Spring of Sinzig, 
 
 which contains carbonate of soda and is free from iron. The 
 _path joins the high road on the |. bank of the Ahr, not far 
 ‘trom the bridge below Sinzig. | 
 
 Between Remagen and Nieder-Breisig the Rhine makes a 
 
 ‘long circuit, which both the railway and the road cut off. 
 “The beautiful church of (r.) Sinzig (on the railway, 11/4, M. 
 
 ‘from the river) is visible from tbe steamboat. 
 
 The village of (l.) Dattenberg, peeping out of a ravine, is 
 “opposite to the confluence of the Afr (R. 17) and the Rhine. 
 /On the same bank Leubsdorf, with an ancient royal abode, 
 a small building with four towers, and near it Ariendorf 
 
 y 
 
 On an eminence to the 1. rises the castle of Arenfels, 
 with gilded pinnacles and weathercocks, erected by Henry of 
 ‘Isenburg, and named by him after his consort the Countess 
 ot Are. It is now the property of Count Westerholt, by 
 ‘whom it has been restored. A tall round stone tower of 
 peculiar construction surmounts the castle. The grounds 
 which extend along the brow of the hill command a series 
 of fine, views. 
 
64 Route 18. RHEINECK. From Remagen 
 
 ]. Hénningen (* Araus) and Rheinbrohl (Krone), with 
 a handsome Gothic *Church, built of grauwacke, are two 
 villages of some importance, situated in a fertile plain, beyond 
 which the mountains to the 1 rise more abruptly from 
 the river. 
 
 r. Nieder-Breisig (steamboat aud railway stat.), near 
 the S. extremity of which part of an ancient Templars’ lodge 
 is still to be seen. About 1°/, M. above the village a path] 
 ascends the wooded hill surmounted by the castle of 
 
 r. *Rheineck. The road winds up the N. and W. sides 
 of the hill, at the foot of which, far below, lies the hamlet 
 Thal Rheineck. The square tower, 65 ft. in height, on the 
 S. side is the sole remnant of the old castle, which was dis- 
 mantled by the French in 1689, destroyed by the troops of 
 the Electorate of Cologne in 1692, and finally burned to the 
 ground in 1785. The new castle, built in the round-arched| 
 style, belongs to Herr von Bethmann-Hollweg, and was erected 
 in 1832 by the eminent architect Lassaulx. The interior is} 
 tastefully and comfortably fitted up, and contains several modern 
 pictures and frescoes of merit. Permission to inspect it is 
 seldom refused (1 pers. 5—7'/, Sgr.; a party 20 Sgr.—1 Thlr.).] 
 The *view from the garden, which is always open to the 
 public, comprises the whole course of the Rhine from far} 
 above Andernach to the Apollinarisberg, with the peaks of the} 
 Seven Mountains rising in the background, and is scarcely} 
 surpassed by the prospect from the Drachenfels. 
 
 Rheineck has been since the most ancient times a boundary 
 between several different races. In the time of Cesar the] 
 Eburones inhabited the district below, aud the Treviri that] 
 above this point; opposite to the former lay the dominions 
 of the Sygambri, and to the latter those of the Ubii; higher] 
 up were the Usipetes and Tenchteri. At the present day} 
 Brohl forms a strongly defined line between the upper and} 
 lower Rhenish dialects, and here too the picturesque head-| 
 dress of the country girls is first observed. 
 
 To the r. the Brohlbach falls into the Rhine at the village} 
 of Brohl (Nonn) (steamboat and railway stat.), which extends 
 along the hill-side and up the valley, adjoining the hamlet] 
 of Nippes. Here is the depdt for the tuffstone found in 
 the valley. 
 
 1. Nieder-Hammerstein, the vineyards of which yield a 
 good wine,then Ober-Hammerstein (burg Hammerstein), near 
 which a large rocky peak (grauwacke) rises abruptly from the 
 river, surmounted by the ruined castle of Hammerstein. Here 
 the Emperor Henry IV. resided for some time when per- 
 secuted by his son Henry V., and here he kept the imperial 
 
to Coblenz. ANDERNACH. 18. Route. 65 
 insignia till their removal by his usurping successor. During 
 the 30 Years’ war the castle was in turn occupied by the 
 Swedes, the Spaniards, the troops of Cologne, and those of 
 ‘Lothringia, and was finally destroyed in 1660 at the instance 
 of the archbishopric of Cologne, being deemed too powerful 
 a neighbour to be tolerated. 
 
 On the heights, about 4'/, M. to the E. of the Rhine, the course of the 
 well-known Roman intrenchment, which was constructed as a protection 
 against the attacks of the Germanic tribes, is distinctly visible, and may be 
 traced from Monrepos as far as the Seven Mountains, The table-land above 
 Hammerstein in the immediate vicinity of the intrenchment still bears the 
 
 name Marsfeld (field of Mars), where Roman coins and other relics are fre- 
 quently found. 
 
 Above (r.) Fornich rises the Fornicher or Weghiibler Kopf, 
 ‘recognizable from a great distance by tbe solitary group of 
 ‘trees rising from the bushes on the summit. It is the nearest 
 voleanic peak to the Rhine, and the lava stream, divided 
 into huge pillars close to the road, is visible from the 
 steamboat. 
 
 (r.) Namedy, a small village at some distance from the 
 river, possesses a small but elegant Gothic church of the 
 15th cent., divided into two parts by a row of slender pillars; 
 near it is the castle of the ancient knights of Namedy. On 
 ‘the 1. extends the considerable village of Leutesdorf (Lisen), 
 surrounded by productive vineyards planted among the rocks. 
 As Andernach is approached the mountains which confine 
 the river commence to recede. 
 
 The ancient and picturesque town of (r.) Andernach 
 (* Hackenbruch; steamboat and railway stat.), with its old 
 bastions, Roman gate and high watch-tower, was known 
 to the Romans by the name of Antonacum (Statio ante Nacum, 
 station before the Nette). It was an ancient frontier fortress, 
 and the head-quarters of the prefectus militum Arinsensium, of 
 ithe Legio XXI. rapax, and the Legio XXII. primiyenia, . of 
 ‘the Cohors Ticinensis and the Cohors Asturiensis. It was con- 
 quered by the Allemanni in 335, but retaken by the Emperor 
 Julian in 359. In the middle ages it was an Imperial town, 
 and was taken by the Electorate of Cologne in 1496; in 1698 
 it was burned down by the French. 
 
 They also destroyed the Schloss, erected in 1109 by Fre- 
 - [., Archbishop of Cologne, and defended against them 
 “oops of the Elector of Brandenburg; the extensive 
 
 om the deep fosse near the Coblenzer Thor. On 
 
 ind vaulted Stadtthor (town-gate) the traces of 
 to destroy it are still visible. 
 
 irche, with its four towers and richly decorated 
 
 a fine specimen of the late Romanesque style 
 
 rd 
 
 3 Rhine. 3) 
 
 oY 
 
 wg 
 
66 Route 18. NEUWIED. From Remagen 
 
 (1206); the choir was erected in 1120. On the vaulting of 
 the nave are seen the Imperial arms, with those of the town 
 and of Hermann IV., Archbishop of Cologne (d. 1508). The 
 choir was re-decorated in 1856. The carved wooden pulpit 
 was brought in 1807 from the Abbey of Laach (p. 72). 
 
 The tall round Watch-tower on the Rhine, with its octa- 
 gonal summit. was erected in 1414—68. The wide breach 
 on the W. side was made by the French cannonade in 1668. 
 
 The volcanic products of the neighbourhood of Andernach, millstones of 
 lava (p. 70), tuffstone, trass, &c., form an important branch of commerce, 
 and are exported to all parts of the world, The lava quarries are at WNie- 
 dermendig, near the Laacher See p. 72), T/. M. to the W. of Andernach, 
 and are best reached from here, returning to the Rhine by the valley of 
 3rohl (p. 70). 
 
 Above the small village of (1.) Fahr are the ruins of the | 
 Teufelshaus (devil’s house) or castle of Friederichstein, begun 
 in the 17th cent., but never completed. It received the above | 
 appellation from the serfs who were employed in its con- 
 struction, on account of the arduousness of the tasks imposed 
 on them. Farther up, on a fertile eminence surrounded by . 
 fruit-trees, stands the Romanesque Je/dkirche. At the small | 
 fishing village of Irlich, a short railway connects the river 
 with the extensive Rasselstein foundry, the first puddling-work 
 erected in Germany (in 1824). Between Irlich and Neuwied 
 the Wiedbach falls into the Rhine. 
 
 The steamboat now touches at the cheerful and industrial 
 little town of Neuwied (*Anker, Wilder Mann, both on the 
 Rhine; Bridergemeinde. Steamboat pier on the l., railway 
 stat. to the r. on the opposite bank, 4 M. from the river). 
 At the lower extremity of the town are situated the handsome 
 palace and park of the Prince of Wied. The town was 
 founded in 1653 by Count Frederick of Wied, on the site of 
 the village of Langendorf, which had been destroyed in the 
 30 Years’? war. Under his protection the town, which is 
 divided into squares by streets 40 ft. in breadth, rapidly 
 increased in importance. Its population is now 7000, con- 
 sisting of Protestants, Rom. Catholics (2000), Moravian Brothers, 
 Anabaptists, Quakers, aud Jews, who all live together in great 
 harmony. Starch, chicory, and tin-wares are the principal 
 products of the place. 
 
 The Pheasantry, an isolated building in the park, contains 
 a collection of * Objects of natural history, brought by Prince 
 Maximilian from Brazil in 1817, and from N. America in 
 1836. Admission at any hour may be obtained by applying 
 to the porter at the entrance gate of the palace (fee 10 Ser 
 for a party 20 Ser). A small collection of Roman antiquit) 
 in a room adjoining the road is only interesting from 
 
to Coblenz. NEUWIED. 18. Route. 67 
 
 fact that they were all found in the vicinity of Neuwied. 
 The coins in the collection are of various dates down to 260, 
 when the camp which stood here was probably destroyed by 
 the Franks. The excavations made in 1819 and 1857 at the 
 village of Niederbiber have been since filled up, and the 
 traces of the Roman camp have disappeared under the 
 plough. 
 
 The community of Moravian Brothers, also called Herrenhuter from 
 the village of Herrenhut in Saxony, where they had established themselves 
 after their expulsion from Moravia during the 30 years’ war, occupies a 
 separate part of the town. Their establishments are well worthy of inspection, 
 and afford an insight into the habits of this remarkable sect. As is well 
 known, they were originally the followers of John Huss, and as is usual in 
 all cases of religious persecution they increased enormously in numbers after 
 the death of their leader. They now form what may be called a religious 
 republic, having their own laws both for public and private life, which are 
 administered by their elders, or religious chiefs. In their manners and 
 habits they are grave and austere, which has gained for them the appellation 
 of the Quakers of Germany. The unmarried brothers live in a separate 
 building and carry on different trades, the profits of which are devoted to 
 the community. Of these manufactures the best known are the faience Stoves, 
 and deer-skin gloves. Visitors are readily admitted, but are first conducted 
 to the magazine, where they are expected to make some purchase. The 
 establishment for the sisters is conducted in a similar way; they are easily 
 recognized by their peculiar white head-dresses, fastened with ribbons of 
 various colours, according to the situation in life of the wearers — girls dark 
 red, young unmarried women pink, married women blue, and widows white, 
 At stated seasons “love-feasts” are celebrated in the chureh, accompanied by 
 Singing, prayers, and a sermon, during which tea is partaken of. The 
 educational portion of the establishment is justly celebrated, and is frequented 
 by pupils from all parts of Germany, as well as from ingland, There are 
 many other schools at Neuwied which also enjoy a high reputation. 
 
 (The country-seat of Monrepos (1008 ft.) 6 M. from Nen- 
 wied, the white walls of which stand out in striking contrast 
 to the wooded slopes on which it stands, forms a conspicuous 
 point in the background of the landscape.) 
 
 Opposite to the park the (r.) Nette falls into the Rhine. 
 The mountain with the two peaks which rises to the W. is 
 the Plaidter Hummerich (909 ft.). On the road and railway 
 is (r.) the Nelterhof, important on account of its numerous 
 corn, oil, bone, and other mills. 
 
 r. Weissenthurm; at one end of the village rises a tall 
 Square watch-tower, erected by Kuno von Falkenstein in 1370, 
 being the extreme point of the dominions of the Electors 
 
 of Treves, which here adjoined the territory of the Arch- 
 
 bishops of Cologne. 
 
 On an eminence above the village stands a small obelisk to the memory 
 of the French General Hoche, who here crossed the Rhine in 1797 with the 
 army, and shortly afterwards died suddenly at Wetzlar at the age of 30. 
 The inscription records that it was erected by the army of the Sambre 
 jand Meuse to its general, but it was really erected by his widow (d. 1859), 
 and has been repaired by the Prussian government. 
 
 (r.) Der gute Mann, formerly a hermitage, with a new 
 chapel, near which are some lime-kilns and a manufactory 
 
 5% 
 
68 Route 18. ENGERS. 
 
 for the preparation of the Engers stone (see below); then 
 Urmitz and Kaltenengers 
 
 Near (l.) Engers (* Rémerbriicke; steamboat stat.) may be 
 seen some fragments of old wall (concrete-masonry, in which 
 coins of Constantine have been found), perhaps remnants of 
 the counterpoise of a Roman bridge or of a tete-de-pont. At 
 this spot there is reason to believe that Cesar’s second pas- 
 sage of the Rhine took place. 
 
 Engers, formerly called Kunostein- Engers, was in ancient 
 times the capital of the Engersgau. The Archbishop Kuno 
 von Falkenstein erected (in 1386) a fortified castle here 
 with a round tower (the ivy-clad trunk of the latter 
 rises below the palace), which was intended to protect the 
 navigators of the Rhine from the rapacious Counts of the 
 Westerwald. On its site stands the present chateau (lately 
 converted into a Prussian military school), erected hy the 
 Elector Johann Philipp von Walderdorf in 1758. 
 
 Near (1.) Mihlhofen, where the Saynbach falls into the 
 Rhine, rise the smelting furnaces of the Foundry of Sayn, 
 and farther from the river the Concordia Foundry. 
 
 On the hill-side, about 1'/ M. inland, the ruins of the Castle of Sayn, 
 destroyed by the French in the 30 Years’ war, are visible from the steamboat. 
 Below it is situated Schloss Sayn, a modern residence of the Prince of 
 Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg, open in absence of the family on Thursdays 
 till 5'4 p.m. (Admission-card 2'/, Sgr.; proceeds devoted to charitable pur- 
 poses). The chiteau is magnificently fitted up, aud contains a small but 
 select *collection of modern pictures. The hill on which the extensive ruins 
 of the old castle are situated has been laid ont as a park. The summit 
 commands a beautiful prospect, similar to that from the Friederichsberg (see 
 below). 
 
 Near the cldteau are the extensive royal iron-works of Sayn (* Burg 
 Sayn), the buildings of which consist almost entirely of cast-iron and glass. 
 
 Above the valley rises the Friederichsberg, laid out as a park by the 
 government of Nassau, and much resorted to in summer. The views obtained 
 from the heights of the rich and orchard-like plain of the Rhine, and the 
 narrow ravines of the romantic valley of Sayn are extremely beautiful and 
 well repay the ascent. Farther up the valley (3!/, M.) are situated the ruins 
 of the castle of Isenburg, the ancient family seat of a still flourishing race. 
 
 On the S. W. wooded slopes of the circle of hills which encloses the 
 beautiful Engersgau, rises the church-spire of Heimbach, near which are the 
 ruins of the ancient abbey of Rommersdorf, with fine cloisters and chapter- 
 house, erected about 1200. Some of the pillars are of verde antico. 
 
 Between Sayn and Engers a peculiar kind of pumice-stone conglomerate 
 is dug up in the open fields. It is cut into squares and dried, and is much 
 valued as a building material for inner walls, on account of its durability and 
 lightness. The bed is in some places 20 ft. in depth. Geological research 
 has suggested the idea that, before the Rhine broke through the chain of 
 mountains near Andervach, the basin of Neuwied was a deep lake. The 
 pumice-stone ejected from the volcanoes of the J. bank of the Rhine (p. 70) 
 was probably washed down by the rain into the lake, where, in combination 
 with a clayey. binding material, it formed the deposits which now yield the 
 above-mentioned stone. 
 
 1. Bendorf (Rheinischer Hof; Beringer), surrounded with 
 fruit-trees, and possessing a curious old Romanesque church; 
 
NIEDERWERTH. 19. Route. 69 
 
 farther up (r.) the villages of St. Sebastian and Kessel- 
 heim, opp. to the island of Niederwerth. Partly concealed 
 by the island lies (l.) the busy little town of Vallendar, with 
 a handsome new church, built by Lassaulx. 
 
 In the valley behind Vallendar are the remains of the nunnery of 
 Schonstatt with its well preserved Gothic towers, abandoned in 1567, after- 
 wards destroyed by the Swedes, and now converted into a cloth factory. 
 From this point the road to the 1. leads through a beautiful wooded valley 
 to the wealthy Nassovian village of Héhr (Mullenbach), with its extensive 
 potteries. 
 
 On the long island of (r.) Niederwerth stands the di- 
 lapidated-looking village of the same name, with a convent- 
 church built in 1500, containing a carved altar-piece and frag- 
 ments of good stained glass. Edward III. of England once 
 resided here for a short time in 1337, and had several inter- 
 views with the Emperor Louis and other princes. 
 
 1. Mallendar, a great portion of which formerly belonged 
 to the knights of the Teutonic Order; on an eminence above 
 the village stands the Haus Besselich, once the property of 
 the Knights Templar, and afterwards an Augustine nunnery 
 till 1804, when it was secularized and passed into private 
 hands. The garden commands a fine view. On the hillside, 
 higher up the river, is seen the village of Urbar, surrounded 
 by fruit-trees. 
 
 r. Wallersheim, and above it Neuendorf, chiefly in- 
 habited by raft-men. The smaller rafts generally lie here for 
 some time and receive considerable additions until they reach 
 the dimensions of 850—900 ft. in length and 180—250 ft. in 
 breadth; they are furnished with a number of wooden huts 
 on the middle for the accommodation of the crew, which 
 frequently numbers 150—160 men. It is said that a raft 
 proprietor must have a capital of at least 45,000/., one third 
 of which consists of wood in the forest, one third timber on 
 the water, and one third is requisite for the expenses of 
 
 transport from the Upper Rhine to Dordrecht in Holland. 
 
 The steamboat now passes the influx of the Moselle, 
 commanding a view of the lofty arches of the bridge, glides 
 
 beneath the rocks and bastions of Ehrenbreitstein, and finally 
 stops at Coblenz (R. 20). 
 
 19. Brohlthal, Laacher See, Lava quarries 
 of Niedermending. 
 (Comp. Map R. 15.) 
 Distances. From Brohl (p. 64) to Ténnisstein 4'/, M., to Wassenach 
 
 2'/, M., to the A bbey of Laach 3M., to Niedermendig 3M., to Mayen 3M. 
 | Diligence twice a day between Mayen and Coblenz in 3 hrs., to the Neuwied 
 
70 Route 19. BROHLTHAL. 
 
 station in 23/, hrs. The Laacher See may be most conveniently visited by 
 carriage from Andernach; a two-horse carriage from Andernach to Nieder- 
 mending, Laach (where dine), Ténnisstein, Brohl, and back to Andernach, 
 costs 3 Thir., the drive occupying about 5!/, hrs. 
 
 The *Brohlthal has been for more than half a century 
 the object of the unwearied investigations of many celebrated 
 geologists. It is a beautiful winding valley enclosed by 
 high, wooded mountains, traversed by a rapid brook, and 
 studded with numerous mills and other houses, but the 
 principal object of interest is the extensive bed of Tuffstone, 
 15—20 ft. in thickness, of which the whole of the bottom 
 of the valley consists. It is a soft whitish-grey or pale 
 yellow stone with sponge-like pores and much veined with 
 pumice stone, very similar to the Italian puzzolana earth, 
 and is believed to be the product of volcanic mud-streams. 
 It is sometimes found covered with softer, sandy substances, 
 such as loose pumice stone and volcanic ash, and sometimes 
 on the surface of the earth, where it has been exposed by 
 the action of the weather. The tuffstone was in very early 
 times used as a building material, and almost all the churches 
 from this part of the Rhine down to Holland were constructed 
 of it, the cornicings and carved work being hewn out of the 
 trachyte of the Drachenfels (which however is more easily 
 weathered than the tuffstone). In more modern times it has 
 never been employed for building purposes, except in the 
 case of the church of Apollinarisberg (p. 62). The tuffstone, 
 however derives its principal value in commerce from the 
 “trass”’, or cement made from it. When pounded down and 
 mixed with lime it possesses the invaluable property of har- 
 dening under water, and is exported in large quantities to 
 Holland, where it is used in the construction of the dykes. 
 (Geologists should consult the admirable Geognostic-orographic 
 maps of the neighbourhood of the Laacher See, by Oeynhausen, 
 pub. at Berlin, 1847.) 
 
 The numerous mineral springs in the vicinity of the 
 Laacher See, and especially in the Brohlthal, may serve as 
 a proof that the volcanic agency has not yet altogether 
 ceased. They are formed by the carbonic acid gas which 
 rises from the fissures of the slate rocks and impregnates 
 the springs to such an extent, that they form probably about 
 one half of the water which the Brohlbach conveys to the 
 Rhine. 
 
 The period when the beds of tuffstone were formed cannot 
 possibly be determined, as even the pumice-stone, the most 
 recent volcanic production, which frequently covers the for- 
 mer, belongs to an epoch far more remote than any recorded 
 
BROHLTHAL. 19. Ronte. TE 
 in human history. The fact that the Romans, the earliest 
 | annalists of this part of the world, buried their dead in those 
 | same pumice-stone beds (at Andernach for example), serves 
 to prove their antiquity. It is, however, a remarkable fact 
 | that the remains of plants contained by the tuffstone belong 
 | to species which still exist. 
 | The tuffstone quarries are seen on both sides of the valley, 
 | and are partly open, partly subterranean, forming extensive 
 galleries, supported by natural pillars left for the purpose. 
 | Here and there, where these galleries have fallen in, the 
 pillars which have been left standing, are covered with the 
 most luxuriant vegetation, favoured by the decomposition of 
 | the stone, and enhance the beauty and variety of the valley. 
 | A good high-road leads through the valley from Brohl to 
 | Ober-Zissen (p. 74), and a tolerable carriage-road from 
 Tonnisstein (see below), to the Abbey of Laach and Nieder- 
 mendig. 
 
 At the entrance of the Brohl valley, on the N. side, the 
 | traveller passes a paper-mill, surrounded with gardens and 
 grounds. About 11/, M. farther, the small castle of Schwep- 
 penburg, probably erected in the 16th cent., rises from an 
 eminence in the middle of the valley. The garden contains 
 a Roman altar*found here. About %, M. farther up the 
 valley, which here diverges to the S. is the Hetlbrunnen, a 
 mineral spring with a saltish but refreshing taste, similar to 
 | that of the Kreuzbrunnen of Marienbad. 
 
 ————SS aaa 
 
 One mile from Schweppenburg, the road to the 1. leads 
 through a side-valley to the Laacher See, while that which 
 continues in the valley in a straight direction leads to Olbriick. 
 On the former road, soon after the Brohlthal is left, the 
 traveller reaches the Toénnissteiner Brunnen, the water 
 of which is strongly impregnated with carbonic acid gas, 
 and, when mixed with wine and sugar, forms an agreeable 
 and refreshing beverage. The marble basin was constructed 
 in 1700 by Joseph Clemens, Elector of Cologne, and the 
 grounds were laid out by his successor Clemens August. 
 
 | Seven minntes’ walk from Toénnisstein the road (to regain 
 / which the pedestrian must retrace his steps from the springs 
 )and recross the bridge) passes the ruins of the (I.) Carmelite 
 ‘monastery of Antoniusstein (hence the corruption ‘Ténnis- 
 / stein”), leads through the village of Wassenach (Laacher 
 Hof), and descends through the wood towards the Laacher 
 See. On the r. rises the wooded Vertskopf (1228 ft.) a vol- 
 canic peak with a double crater opening on the W. side, and 
 a broad and rapidly descending stream of lava. The view 
 
72 Route 19. LAACH. 
 
 from this point of the lake surrounded by wooded hills is 
 very striking. 
 
 On the S. W. bank rises the Benedictine Abbey of *Laach, 
 founded by the Count Palatine Henry II. in 1093, and se- 
 cularized in 1802, once one of the wealthiest and most cele- 
 brated in Germany. In 1863 it became the property of 
 the Jesuits, who have converted it into an educational 
 establishment. The church, completed in 1156 (no longer 
 used for divine service), with its dome, five towers, and crypt, 
 in the Romanesque style, and richly decorated, is an object 
 of almost equal interest to architects and the unprofessional 
 traveller. The beautiful cloisters, restored in 1859, belong to 
 the close of the 12th cent., and the curious monument of 
 the founder, the foremost pillars of which are monoliths of 
 cale sinter, to the end of the 13th. The church is the pro- 
 perty of, and is kept in repair by Government. What was 
 formerly a large summer-house in the orchard is now con- 
 verted into an inn of small pretensions. Excellent pike fishing 
 may be enjoyed on the lake, and a traditional fish of 40 lbs. 
 is made an additional incentive to the angler. As the fishing 
 is farmed, whatever fish is captured must be purchased if 
 carried away. Boats with the services of fishermen acquainted 
 with the lake may be procured at the inn, which also affords 
 tolerable refreshment and accomodation. 
 
 The *Laacher See (846 ft.) is nearly round, averaging 
 12), M. in diameter, and is about 6 M. in circumference. It 
 is the largest of the crater-tarns (R. 33) of the Eifel and was 
 probably one of the more recent results of the volcanic agency 
 in this district. It is not itself a crater, but is believed to 
 have been formed by a series of volcanic eruptions which took 
 place in the vicinity, especially by the upheaving of the Veits- 
 kopf (p. 71). There are several craters in the hills which 
 surround the lake, the principal of which is the Arufter Ofer 
 (1443 ft.), 1 M. distant, the barren, brownish-red slag walls 
 of which sink towards the lake. 
 
 The road leads along the W. side of the lake, but the E. 
 side is by far the more interesting for the geologist. At the 
 N. E. corner, */, M. from the Wassenach road, on the 1. side 
 of the footpath, and near a barren spot to the r. of the 
 meadow, is a “mofette”’ (comp. R. 33) in a bed of clay, about 
 90 ft. above the level of the water, where dead mice, birds, 
 squirrels, &c. are constantly found, having been suffocated 
 by the carbonic acid gas which continually issues in greater - 
 or less volumes from the hole, affording another proof that 
 the volcanic agency is not yet completeiy extinct (comp. p. 53). 
 The lower strata of the air in this cavity are overpowering 
 
MAYEN. 19. Route. %3 
 
 even to human beings, of which the traveller may satisfy 
 himself by bending down his head. 
 
 After an inundation in the 12th cent. which threatened 
 the destruction of the Abbey lands, the Benedictines caused 
 a shaft to be sunk on the S. side of the lake, by which the 
 water is conveyed under ground to the Nette. <A similar 
 shaft constructed in 1845 has lowered the level of the lake 
 by about 23 ft. 
 
 The extensive basalt-lava * Quarries of Niedermendig: 
 (Miller) are situated about 3 M. to the S. of the Laacher See. 
 The subterranean galleries, which extend over an area of 3 M. 
 in length and 11/4, M. in breadth, reach as far as the Krufter 
 Ofen (p. 72), but the lava-stream which was probably ejected 
 by the Forstberg (1842 ft.) is the largest at Niedermendig, where 
 it is intersected by numerous and spacious halls, supported 
 by huge pillars. These pits, which were probably worked 
 by the Romans, are almost all connected with each other, 
 and communicate with the surface of the earth by means of 
 wide, walled shafts for ventilation and the transport of the 
 stone. A guide (10 Sgr.) precedes the visitor with a torch; 
 the inspection occupies about an hour. The temperature in 
 these mines is so low that even in the height of summer 
 huge icicles are suspended from the roof, and masses 
 of ice are seen in all directions. The lava is not only 
 used for millstones, but on account of its extreme hardness 
 and durability forms an excellent material for paving and 
 building purposes. ‘The deserted galleries are used as_ beer- 
 cellars, and to them the beer of Mendig is indebted for 
 its celebrity. 
 
 At Mayen (* Miller; Post), the district town (diligence 
 twice a day to Coblenz in 3 hrs., to the Neuwied station in 
 2%/, hrs.), there are also lava-quarries, which, however, are 
 more open and of a less depth than those above described. 
 The lava-bed in which they are worked is the outlet of the 
 sunken yoleano of Ettringer-Beller-Kopf (1287 ft.), 1'/, M. 
 N. from Mayen. The E. side of the crater commands a fine 
 view of the fruitful plain which lies between Mayen and 
 Andernach, and of the valley of the Rhine. The rugged walls 
 of the S. extremity of the lava-field are to be seen at the 
 Reifer Muhle in the valley of the Nette, about 11/4, M. below 
 Mayen, and in the vicinity of the slate quarry of Radscheck. 
 
 From Laach to Mayen another road leads by Bell, the same distance 
 (6 M.) as by Niedermendig, passing the remarkable brickstone (similar to 
 tuffstone) quarries of Bell. Beyond them rises the *Forstberg (1842 ft.), the 
 crater of which opens towards the N. W. The Hochstein, a mass of rock 
 on the W. side, commands a fine view of the Laacher See, the Eifel, and the 
 Rhine as far as the Seven Mountains. Below the Hochstein is an old artificial 
 
74 Route 19. BURGBROHL. 
 
 grotto, the origin of which is unknown. From the Forstberg the road leads 
 by Kttringen and the above mentioned Kttringer- Beller-Kopf to Mayen. 
 
 From the Laacher See to the Rhine (or from Niedermendig) are 
 three different ways: 1st, the old road to Andernach (9 M.), which offers 
 little variety, passing the villages of Nickenich and ich a little to the r.; 
 2nd, the high-read to Andernach (10'/, M.) by Kruft (in the valley are seen 
 the ruins of Korretsburg), Plaidt, and Miesenheim, where the Andernach 
 road diverges from that to Neuwied: the latter leads in a N. E. direction, 
 passing the Netterhammer and joining the Coblenz road at the Netterhaus 
 aear the Neuwied station; 3d, to Coblenz, which by the direct road 
 (by Ochtendung, Bassenheim and Riuibenach) is 15 M. distant. About 1!/, M. 
 from Niedermendig it passes the Church of St. Genovefa, where according to 
 the old tradition the saint was discovered in the wilderness by her husband 
 Siegfried, Count Palatine of Hohensimmern. The church contains monuments 
 of both. Near the brook which crosses the road not far from the church, 
 numerous mineral springs bubble up on the road-side (p. 71). 
 
 Instead of diverging to the |. to TOnnisstein (p. 71), the 
 traveller may keep the. road in the Brohl valley, which will 
 bring him to Burgbrohl (*Salentin) (1 M.), a picturesquely 
 situated village with an old castle, once the seat of a family 
 of the same name. The huge masses of calcareous tuff of 
 which the rocks here consist, have been gradually deposited 
 by the mineral cpaingrs like the thermal tuff of Carlsbad. 
 The road next passes through Nieder-Zissen (* burchariz) 
 (3 M.), Ober-Zissen (11/, M.) and Hain (Rademacher) (1 M.); 
 1 M. further the castle of Olbritck (1456 ft.) is reached. 
 The latter is one of the highest points in this district, and 
 commands an extensive view of the voleanic peaks of the 
 Hifel, the hilly country in the direction of the Rhine, and the 
 Seven Mountains. ‘The only part of the castle which is still 
 in good preservation is the lofty square tower, a conspicuous 
 object in the landscape when viewed from the Seven Moun- 
 tains and the plain of the Rhine. The peak on which it 
 stands consists of clink-stone or phonolite, also a volcanic 
 product. From the Perler Kopf (1800 ft.), 3 M. to the W. of 
 Olbriick, the prospect is still more extensive. [From Olbrick 
 S. W. to Kempenich (p. 60) 3°/, M., thence to the Hochacht 
 (p. 60) 101% M.}. 
 
 The traveller who wishes to return to the Rhine by a dif- 
 ferent route is recommended to take the path at Nieder-Zissen 
 (see above) which ascends to the N., traversing a low wood 
 (the Scheiderwald), passing the volcanic peak (2!/, M.) of 
 Hlerchenberg (997 ft.), the summit and E. slopes of which 
 consist of tuffstone, the W. side of slag, and the S. of cleft 
 pillar-like lava; 114, M. farther Ober-Liitzingen, 114/, 
 Nieder-Liitzingen (* Paulsen), then turning to the |. by the 
 chapel, over the ridge of the mountain, wie finally through 
 wood bearing to the r., the castle of Rheineck (p. 64) (2 M.) 
 is reached, the entire distance from Nieder-Zissen being 6°/, M, 
 
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COBLENZ. 20: Route. (Th 
 
 This path passes at Nieder-Zissen by the foot of the Bau- 
 senberg (1056 ft.), which rises to the N: of the village, 450 ft. 
 above it. Its summit is one of the finest and most distinctly 
 defined craters in the vicinity of the Laacher See, its inner 
 wall, 79 ft. in height, opening to the N. W. The lava stream 
 may be traced 3 M. in a N. E. direction, down to the valley 
 of the Pjingstbach at Génnersdorf, where it terminates in huge 
 columnar masses of rock. 
 
 20. Coblenz. 
 
 Hotels. On the Rhine: *Giant (Pl.a) and *Bellevue (Pl.b) (R. 15— 
 20 Sgr., L.5, B.10, D. 24, A. 6 Sgr.) — *Anker (PI. c) (R. and B. 22 Ser.; 
 “Hotel de Prusse (Pl. d.) (R. and B. 19 Sgr.). — In the town: *H6te! 
 de Tréves (Pl. ¢e) in the Clemensplatz, quiet (R. 15, B. 8, D. 20, A. 5 Ser.), 
 — *Hotel de Liege (PI. f), not far from the station and the Moselle steam- 
 boat wharf; Wildes Schwein (Pl. g); Traube. — In Ehrenbreitstein; 
 White Horse, with garden commanding a fine view of the Rhine and 
 Coblenz. 
 
 Cafés. *Trinkhalle, on the Rhine-promenade, */, M. from the Holzthor: 
 in summer a Café on the Rhine-wharf, opp. the steamboat piers; both of 
 these command fine views. Hubaleck, opp. the post-office. Beer in all, 
 
 Newspapers in the Casino; strangers introduced by a member. 
 
 Porterage from the steamboat to one of the hotels on the Rhine: 2 Ser. 
 for every box, 1 Sgr. for smaller packages; into the town 3 or 2, to Ehren- 
 breitstein 4 or 2!/, Ser. 
 
 Military Music on Sundays at 11'/4,, and Wednesdays at 12 o’clock, in 
 the Clemensplatz 
 
 Baths in the Rhine, attached to the bridge of boats; in the Moselle on 
 the l.-bank (ferry 1 Sgr.). Swimming-baths in the Rhine, a little below 
 the bridge; charge for a single bath (excl, of towel etc.) 5 Sgr. 
 
 Railway Station on the W. side of the town, within the ramparts, 
 
 Telegraph-office in the Schloss Rondel, No. 11. 
 
 Carriages. One-horse: for a drive 1—2 pers. 5, 3 pers. 7, 4 pers. 8 Ser.; 
 for an hour 15, for each following hour 7!/, Sgr.; to Laubbach (p. 90) 
 10, there and back, with one hour’s stay, 15 Sgr.; to Capellen (Stolzenfels) 
 17'/,, there and back, with one hour’s stay, 27!/, Sgr.; for half a day 1 Thlir. 
 717, or including the Kénigsstuhl 1 Thlr. 27'4, Sgr. To the Karthause 
 (p. 79) as far as the Schéne Aussicht and back, with one hour’s stay, 1 Thlr. 
 To the top of Ehrenbreitstein and back, with 2 hours’ stay, 1 Thr. 7'/, Sgr.; 
 to Arenberg (Calvarienberg worth a visit, view magnificent) and back, with 
 2 hours’ stay, 1 Thir. 5 Sgr.; to Niederlahnstein 22'/,, there and back, with 
 one hours’ stay, 271/, Sgr., for half a day 1'/, Thir.; to Ems (R. 22) 2 Thir. 
 5 Sgr., there and back, with stay of '/, day, 2 Thlr. 20 Sgr.; for the whole 
 day 3 Thir. 10 Sgr.; to Sayn (p.68) and back, with two hours’ stay, 1 Thir. 
 22'/, Sgr. — Two-horse carriages cost one half more. Bridge toll (4!,—6 Ser.) 
 may be saved by taking a carriage in Ehrenbreitstein for excursions on the 
 r. bank of the river. Stands on the R/ine near the “Giant”, near the Mainzer 
 Thor and in Ehrenbreitstein near the bridge. N.B. Carriages from the hotels, 
 aud those not furnished with a number have no fixed charges. 
 
 English Church Service performed by a resident chaplain every Sunday 
 in the English Chapel in the Palace. 
 
 Moselle-steamboats comp. R. 32. The following two-days’ excursion in- 
 cludes the most beautiful points on the Moselle. By steamboat to Alf, by car- 
 
 | riage to Bertrich 17/, Thlr., or to the Falkenlei, near the village of Kenfuss, 
 
 about 2'/, Thir., visiting, on the way back to Bertrich, the Cheese-grotto, 
 waterfall, Bertrich itself and environs, and returning the same evening 
 to Alf. On the following morning by steamboat back to Coblenz, arriving 
 in the afternoon. 
 
76 Route 20. COBLENZ. 
 
 Travellers whose time is limited are recommended to walk down the 
 Rhine from the steamboat wharf to the Moselle, then to the 1], along the bank 
 of the latter and through the gate, inspect the Castorbrunnen and Castor- 
 kirche (p, 77), the Moselle bridge (p.78), the 8S. gates of the town (p.79), 
 the view from the Karthause (p. 79), and on the way back the Cemetery, 
 all of which may be accomplished in 4 hrs. *Ehrenbreitstein, see p. 80, 
 *Stolzenfels R. 24. 
 
 Coblenz, at the confluence of the Moselle and the Rhine, 
 is the capital of the Rhenish Province and the seat of the 
 highest civil and military authorities. Population, including 
 a garrison of about 5000 men, 27,767 (3752 Prot., 415 Jews); 
 pop. of Ehrenbreitstein 4287. 
 
 No town on the Rhine can vie with Coblenz in the beauty 
 of its situation, and many circumstances contribute to its im- 
 portance. It stands at the confluence of perhaps the two 
 most lovely streams in the world; equidistant from the im- 
 portant towns of Cologne and Mayence, it forms a half-way 
 resting place to travellers from both, and it is necessarily the 
 depot at which the commerce of the Moselle, the Rhine, and 
 the Lahn is concentrated; when to these advantages is added 
 its great importance in a military point of view, that it is a 
 favourite residence of the amiable sovereign who has endeared 
 herself to her Coblenz subjects by a thousand acts of gene- 
 rosity, that it is the resort of crowds of the pleasure-seeking 
 of our own and other countries, it may be readily understood 
 that Coblenz stands unrivalled amongst the cities of. this 
 beautiful and highly-favoured province. 
 
 The side of the town which faces the Rhine consists of a 
 row of handsome buildings, commencing with the palace, 
 government buildings, and other houses mostly of modern 
 construction, and terminating with the venerable and imposing 
 Church of St. Castor and the sadly unpicturesque building 
 which formerly belonged to the Teutonic order. The side 
 next to the Moselle, extending as far as the railway bridge, 
 has a much poorer aspect, but is far from devoid of interest. 
 
 Coblenz was the Confluentes of the Romans, and belonged 
 to a series of fortresses erected by Drusus on the |. bank of 
 the Rhine in the year B.C. 9, as a protection against the in- 
 cursions of the neighbouring Germanic tribes. It is also men- 
 tioned by Ammianus Marcellinus (d. 390) as being the only 
 Roman fortress on this part of the Rhine in his time. At 
 the junction of the two rivers several coins of Roman emperors 
 were discovered in 1844, when the new wharves were in 
 course of construction. 
 
 Till the establishment of the Rhenish Towns’ Confederation, 
 Coblenz was a place of little importance. In the 30 Years’ 
 war it was in turn besieged and garrisoned by the Swedes, 
 
Church of St. Custor. COBLENZ. 20. Route 77 
 
 | the French, and the Imperial troops. In 1688, although 
 | the greater part of the town was destroyed by the French 
 _cannonade, if successfully resisted the attacks of Marshal 
 | Boufflers. On the completion of the palace in 1786 it be- 
 came the residence of the Elector of Treves, but a few years 
 later (Oct. 23rd, 1794) it was taken by the French, who exacted 
 a contribution of 4 million francs and made it the capital of 
 _ the Department of the Rhine and Moselle. On the Ist of 
 January, 1814, the French were compelled by the allies to 
 evacuate the town, and in the following year it became sub- 
 ject to the crown of Prussia. 
 
 The *Church of St.’Castor (PI. 2), close to the junction 
 of the two rivers, was founded by Louis the Pious in 836 ; 
 the present structure dates from 1208, and is said to present 
 
 the earliest example of what is called the ‘Lombard style” 
 _in the Rhenish Provinces. The sharp-arched vaulting belongs 
 to the year 1498. The N. choir contains a remarkably fine 
 monument of the Archbishop Kuno von Falkenstein (d. 1388, 
 /see p. 68); it is a Gothic sarcophagus-niche with a fresco 
 | (adoration of the Saviour, on the r. St. John and St. Castor, 
 ‘and on the 1. the archbishop kneeling, Mary and Peter) as- 
 cribed to the then celebrated master Wilhelm of Cologne. 
 |The two fine frescoes ip the choir were painted by Sette- 
 gast in 1849 and 1852. The Monument of St. Riza, who 
 /according to an ancient tradition was a daughter of Louis 
 the Pious, is a modern work. ‘The new Portal was erected 
 in 1862. 
 
 Opposite to the entrance of the church stands the Castor- 
 brunnen (Pl. 4), erected by the last French prefect in com- 
 memoration of the French campaign against Russia, with the 
 
 ‘inscription: ‘dn 1812. Memorable par la campagne contre les 
 Russes. Sous le prefecturat de Jules Doazan.” “The Russian 
 }general St. Priest, who entered the town on the 1st of Ja- 
 nuary, 1814, with exquisite irony caused the words: “Vu et 
 \approuve par nous Commandant Russe de la ville de Coblence, 
 le 1. gan. 1814,” to be added. 
 
 | Adjacent to the Castorplatz is the residence of the com- 
 /mander-in-chief of the Rhenish province, a large and strag- 
 ‘gling pile with no claim to architectural beauty, but posses- 
 sing some interest from the associations with which it is 
 ‘connected. It was formerly the seat of the Counts of Leyen, 
 yand in 1791 afforded an asylum to the Counts of Provence 
 yand Artois. In 1800 it became the seat of the French prefect, 
 jand in 1804 (17th—20th Sept.) was visited by Napoleon and 
 ‘his consort. 
 
 } 
 
 | A few steps northward bring the visitor to the Mosel- 
 
78 Route 20. COBLENZ. Palace. 
 
 strasse, by following which, passing the crane and under the 
 bridge, he will reach the Wolfsthor. On entering the town 
 by this gate, and passing the Metternicher Hof, birthplace of 
 Prince Metternich, on the r., he reaches the *Moselle-bridge 
 with its 14 arches, erected by the Elector Balduin in 1344 
 (the tower was added in 1832), and commanding a fine view 
 of Ehrenbreitstein, Across it are conveyed the conduit-pipes 
 which supply the town with water from the heights of Metter- 
 nich, a village 2M. distant. Above the bridge is the new 
 railway-bridge, and 3 M. beyond it the blue roofs of Rube- 
 nach with its tall spire are seen glittering in the distance. 
 
 On re-entering the town, the ancient Archiepiscopal Palace 
 (Burg, PJ. 11) stands on the 1. It was erected in 1276; the 
 handsome staircase of the tower belongs to the more recent 
 additions. It is now converted into a manufactory of japanned 
 tin-wares. 
 
 With the exception of St. Castor’s, the churches offer few 
 objects of interest. ‘Che Liebfrauenkirche, or Church of 
 Our Lady, was founded in the 13th cent., but not completed 
 till the 15th. The Gothic choir, with its lofty pointed win- 
 dows, was added in 1405, the upper parts of the towers were 
 renewed after the siege of 1688. — The Carmelitenkirche, 
 erected in 1673, has recently been fitted up as a garrison- 
 church. The (Prot.) Florinskirche was built at the commen- 
 cement of the 12th cent., the choir added subsequently to 1356. 
 Near the latter is the Kaufhaus, or Merchants’ Hall, erected 
 in 1480 as a Town-hall, and used as such till 1805. 
 
 The Schloss, or palace, in the “Neustadt”, is a building 
 of considerable extent, but no architectural pretensions. It 
 was erected by Clemens Wenceslaus, the last Elector of Treves 
 (d. 1812) in 1778—86, and occupied by him till 1794. Soon 
 after his departure the French successively converted it into 
 a hospital and a barrack. In 1845 it was restored by the 
 Prussian government, and since 1850 has been a frequent 
 residence of the Prince and Princess (now King and Queen) 
 of Prussia. A suite of apartments in the building is assigned 
 to the use of the President of the Rhenish Province, and the 
 N. wing contains the military protest. church and the English 
 chapel. ‘The latter was liberally placed at the disposition of 
 the English residents by the Princess (now Queen) of Prussia, 
 who not unfrequently attends the service. 
 
 In the middle of the Clemensplatz (military music see p. 75), 
 adjoining the Esplanade with its numerous trees, rises a foun- | 
 tain-obelisk, erected by Clemens Wenceslaus in 1791, and de- 
 dicated “vicinis suis”. Opposite to it, and adjoining the Hotel | 
 de Treves, is the Zheatre (Pl. 20). 
 
| Promenade. COBLENZ. 20. Route. 79 
 
 The handsome S. gates, the Mainzerthor and the Léhr- 
 thor, belong to the fortifications of the town, and serve as 
 _ barracks for the artillery and pioneers. A glance at the ram- 
 | parts from the drawbridges in front of the gates will convey 
 an idea of the fortifications of the town, which are, however, 
 of far less importance than the strongly fortified outworks of 
 Ehrenbreitstein, the Karthause, and the Petersberg. The new 
 *Promenade, which the traveller will reach in 5 min. from 
 the Mainzer Thor by traversing the glacis to the l., extends 
 for upwards of 2 M. along the bank of the river, and well 
 deserves a visit on account of the beautiful view it affords. 
 The new and handsome iron *Railway Bridge is seen to 
 the l., as the glacis is quitted: 
 
 The fortifications on the AKarthause, on the r. bank of the 
 Moselle, consist of Fort Alexander on the summit, and lower 
 down Fort Constantine, the latter occupying the site of an 
 ancient Carthusian monastery. The road which ascends the 
 hill between rows of trees and leads to the Hunnsrticken was, 
 before the construction of the road along the bank of the 
 Rhine, the high-road to Bingen and Mayence. The view about 
 half-way up is singularly beautiful; in the foreground is the 
 rich plain of the Rhine and the island of Oberwerth, and the 
 background consists of a semicircle of pictnresquely shaped 
 hills with the castles of Stolzenfels and Lahneck. 
 
 On the side of the Karthause facing the Moselle, about 
 150 paces S. from the military rifle-practice ground, is a spot 
 railed in and furnished with seats (‘**die schdne Aussicht”’) 
 which affords a strikingly beautiful glimpse of the peaceful 
 »and lovely valley of the Moselle. If the road along the brow of 
 ‘the hill be now followed in the direction of the fortifications, 
 the traveller will reach a broad road planted with poplars, 
 which continuing nearly on the same level, leads round the 
 ‘fortifications of Fort Alexander, affording a succession of fine 
 | views, a ae an the main road near Fort Constantine. 
 
 : Tite. * tihkopf (1159 ft.), the wooded summit to the 8. 
 of the amie is about 114, M. distant from the exercising- 
 ground, and commands a splendid and peculiar prospect, es- 
 pecially from the Luisen-Linde (a large lime-tree named after 
 the Princess Louisa of Prussia, now Grand-duchess of Baden), 
 from which three navigable rivers, the Rhine, the Moselle, and 
 the Lahn, are visible at the same time. About 1, M. beyond the 
 point where the path from the Kihkopf joins the road, another 
 road (for pedestrians only) descends to Stolzenfels (p. 90). 
 At the foot of the fortifications of Fort Alexander, on the 
 N. side, is situated the *Cemetery, with its numerous monu- 
 
80 Route 20. COBLENZ. 
 ments and weeping willows, where, among other illustrious 
 dead, lie the remains of the poet Max von Schenkendorf (d. 1817). 
 
 Beyond the bridge over the Moselle rises the slight emi- 
 nence cf Petersberg, crowned by the fortifications of Fort 
 Franz, which commands the town, the roads to Treves 
 and Cologne, and the entire intervening plain. Two smaller 
 outworks, to the r. and |. of the principal fort, and connected 
 with if by subterranean passages, and a third in the plain 
 near Neuendorf, complete this portion of the fortifications and 
 form an extensive camp capable of affording shelter to 100,000 
 men. he full complement of the garrison in time of war is 
 fixed at 15,000, but owing to the admirable arrangements of 
 the works 5000 men (Alexander and Constantine 2000, Franz 
 500, Town 800, Ehrenbreitstein 1200 and Asterstein 500) 
 would be sufficient to defend the town against an enemy of 
 far superior force. 
 
 Within the walls of Fort Franz, to the l. on entering, a 
 plain marble slab, enclosed by four corner-stones, indicates the 
 grave of the French General Hoche (p. 67), whose remains 
 were brought from Wetzlar to Coblenz and here interred, and 
 near it his companion in arms Marceau (“soldat a 16 ans, 
 général & 22 ans”), who fell at Altenkirchen in 1796. The 
 monument of the latter as well as his remains were, on the 
 construction of the fortification in 1819, removed to their 
 present position at the foot of the hill, on the 1. hand side 
 of the Cologne road, about */, M. from the Moselle bridge. 
 Byron’s well-known lines: 
 
 “By Coblenz, on a geutle rise of ground, 
 There is a small and simple pyramid, 
 Crowning the summit of the verdant mound; 
 Beneath its base-are hero’s ashes hid 
 
 Our enemy, — but let not that forbid 
 Honour to Marceau!” &e. 
 
 refer to the monument in its original position. 
 
 The fertile plain which extends between Coblenz and Andernach is cele- 
 brated in history as the scene of Cwsar’s first passage of the Rhine (near 
 Engers), B. C. 55, the contests between Charles the Bald and Louis the German 
 in 871, the devastation of this district by the Normans in 882, the sieges of 
 the 30 Years’ war in 1631—1636, the murderous and destructive campaign of 
 Louis XIV., the Spanish war of succession, and the French revolutionary 
 war of 1794—1797. —- About 1 M. to the N. W. of Marceau’s monument is 
 situated Schénbornslust, once a villa of the Elector of Treves, and the resi- 
 dence of the Bourbon princes and other illustrious fugitives during the first 
 French revolution. 
 
 21. Ehrenbreitstein. 
 
 Cards of admission (2!/, Sgr.) must be procured at the office of the com- 
 mandant (Pl. 33), the first door to the r. after crossing the bridge over the 
 dock. Visitors are received at the top and conducted over the fortress by 
 
 cn Ele men 
 
KHRENBREITSTEIN. 21. Route. 81 
 
 a soldier. Two hours suffice for the walk from Coblenz to the summit and 
 back. The view from the Pfafendorfer Hohe (p. $2) is similar to that from 
 Ehrenbreitstein; no permission necessary. 
 
 Opposite to the influx of the Moselle rises the majestic 
 fortress of *Ehrenbreitstein , justly termed the Gibraltar of 
 the Rhine, situated on a precipitous and rugged rock, 377 ft. 
 above the Rhine and 566 ft. above the level of the sea. The 
 castle which formerly occupied the site of the present fortifica- 
 tion is said to have been presented by the Franconian king 
 Dagobert to the Arch A to of Treves, and it is known that 
 the latter were confirmed in their possession by the Emperor 
 Henry lI. in 1018. It was subsequently greatly enlarged and 
 strengthened at various periods, and became a fortress of 
 great importance. It has only twice succumbed to an enemy, 
 once having been taken by stratagem, and once reduced by 
 famine. On the first of these occasions it fell into the hands 
 of the French in 1631, under whose protection the Elector 
 Christoph von Sétern had placed himself. The Elector having 
 found a pretext for drawing off the greater part of the gar- 
 rison, the French crossed the Rhine at Bingen, marched across 
 the hills from Lorch to Montabaur, and eutened the fortress 
 in the rear. Five years later it again came into the possession 
 of the Imperial general Johann von Werth. 
 
 During the French revolutionary war, Ehrenbreitstein was 
 besieged four different times, in 1795, 1796, 1797, and 1798, 
 and was finally surrendered, Jan. 27th, 1799, by the brave 
 Colonel Faber, after all the provisions had been consumed. 
 Immediately after its occupation by the French, they added 
 several new intrenchments on the N. side, but in consequence 
 of the peace of Luneville they blew up the entire works and 
 evacuated it in 1801. At the second peace of Paris, 15 million 
 francs were paid according to treaty by the French to the 
 Prussian government for the restoration of the fortifications, 
 which were recommenced in 1816 under .the direction of 
 General Aster, and completed 10 years later, at a total ex- 
 pense of not less than 8 million dollars (1,200,000/.). The new 
 fortress extends over a part of the narrow table-land to the N. 
 of the rock, and justly excites the admiration of connoisseurs 
 from all parts of Europe. 
 
 A bridge of boats, 470 yds. in length, connects Coblenz 
 with the small town of Khrenbreitstein. On the pillars of the 
 gateway are indicated the heights attained by the Rhine during 
 recent inundations; the highest was that of 1846. 
 
 The way to the fortress leads through the town. On en- 
 tering the gate beyond the drawbridge the visitor passes a 
 handsome building on the r., erected in 1747 by the Electors 
 
 BAEDEKDER’s Rhine, 6 
 
82 Route 22, OBERLAHNSTEIN. 
 
 of Treves as a residence for the governors of the place. It 
 now serves as a provision magazine. <A little beyond it the 
 road ascends to the r. into the fortress, passing the old 
 Pagenhaus (or institution for pages) of the Electors of Treves, 
 and the Helfenstein, or lower part of the fortification. The 
 steep flight of steps on the side facing the Rhine is now no 
 longer used. 
 
 On three sides Ehrenbreitstein is, according to military 
 criticism, inaccessible, and the N. side, where alone it could 
 be attacked, is defended by a double line of bastions, which 
 would have to be taken successively before an enemy could 
 enter in that direction. The view from the top is one of the 
 finest on the whole Rhine. It comprises the rich and fruit- 
 ful plain of the Rhine from Stolzenfels to Andernach, and 
 the numerous volcanic peaks of the Maifeld and Eifel (R. 33). 
 Immediately below are the Rhine, the Moselle, and the trian- 
 gular town of Coblenz. 
 
 The Asterstein on the Pfaffendorfer Hohe, to the 3S. of 
 Ehrenbreitstein, is connected with the latter, and forms a part 
 of the fortifications of the r. bank of the Rhine. ‘The tower 
 on the W. slope was erected in honour of the Grand-duchess 
 of Baden, daughter of the present king of Prussia. 
 
 Coblenz and Ehrenbreitstein were visited by Goethe in 
 the summer of 1774, and he resided for some time in the 
 last house in Ehrenbreitstein on the 1. before entering the 
 fortress, at that time the residence of the Chancellor de Ja 
 Roche. The poet gives a pleasing description of his visit in 
 the 3rd part of his “Fiction and Truth.” 
 
 22. From Coblenz to Wetzlar. 
 
 Ems and the Valley of the Lahn. 
 Comp. map. R, 24. 
 
 By railway direct, since the completion of the new railway bridge at 
 Coblenz, to Ems in '/,, to Wetzlar in 2°/,—3 hrs. Carriage-road and footpath 
 to Ems see p. $3; carriages p. 76. 
 
 On quitting the Coblenz station the train leaves the Left- 
 Rhenish line, and passing the Lohr and the Mainzer Thor 
 (p. 79) approaches the Rhine. From the railway -bridge a 
 pleasing glimpse is obtained of the town, the palace, and the 
 fortress of Ehrenbreitstein. Passing the villages of P/ajfen- 
 dorf, Horchheim and Niederlahnstein, and crossing the Lahn 
 opposite to the beautifully situated castle of Stolzenfels, the 
 train stops at Oberlahnstein (p. 91; *Railway refreshment- 
 room; to Ridesheim and Wiesbaden see R. 23), where carriages 
 must frequently be changed. 
 
: 
 : 
 : 
 
 EMS. 22, Route. $8 
 
 The train now slowly skirts the base of the wooded 
 eminence on which the castle of Lahneck (p. 92) stands, and 
 remains on the |. bank of the Lahn till Nassau is reached. 
 
 Besides the railway, a good road leads from Ehrenbreitstein to Ems by 
 Niederlahnstein, thence ascending the picturesque valley of the Lahn on the 
 r. bank of the river, passing several irov-foundries and the village of Fach- 
 bach, a distance of 12 M. (by carriage in 2 hrs.) The footpath from Ehren- 
 breitstein over the hills (Arzheim 1 M., signpost 3 M. farther, Fachbach 
 1'/, M., thence to Ems 1'/, M., total distance 7 M.) may be found without 
 a guide. 
 
 Hotels in Ems. Englischer Hof, at the W. end; Russischer 
 Hof, in the centre of the town. Four Seasons, and Europdischer 
 Hof, near the Cursaal. Darmstadter Hof, near the old Curhaus. Gut- 
 tenberger Hof, on the 1. bank of the Lahn, good table d@héte; Hotel 
 de France, both near the station. Besides these hotels there are a great 
 number of lodging-houses: Panorama, Pariser Hof, Prince of Wales, 
 Stadt London, etc. on the 1. bank of the river. 
 
 Carriages. To Arnstein and back 6 fl.; Biaubach 5 fl., back by Lahn- 
 stein 7 fl.; Coblenz 5 fi., and back 7 fl.; to Ehrenbreitstein 41/, fl., and back 
 6 fi.; Nassau and back 3! fl., for the whole day 5'/,; Lahnstein 3'/, fl. 
 and back 5 fl., for the whole day 6 fl. These charges include tolls and 
 driver’s fee. 
 
 Donkeys. To Ehrenbreitstein 11, fl.; Braubach 1'/, fl. (to Marksburg 
 18 kr. more); Nassau 1'/, (to the castle 18 kr. more); Arnstein 1 fl. 48 kr.3 
 Fachbach and Nievern 40 kr.; Mooshitte 30 kr., to the highest point 40 kr., 
 same and back by Dausenau 1 fl. These charges all include the return-ride ; 
 the donkey-boys expect a fee of a few kreuzers. Two-donkey carriages at 
 somewhat more than double the above charges. 
 
 Telegraph Office during the season in the Furstenhof. : 
 
 English Church Service during the season in the English Chapel on the 
 1. bank of the Lahn. 
 
 Ems was known to the Romans, as is proved by the 
 vases, coins, &c., found at various times in the vicinity, and 
 is mentioned in a document of 1354 as a warm bath under 
 the inspection of the governments of Hessen-Darmstadt and 
 Oranien-Nassau, to the latter of which it has exclusively 
 belonged since 1808. It is a curious fact, showing to what 
 an extent Germany was formerly cut up into small principali- 
 ties, that from the bridge over the Lahn, which commands 
 but a limited view, the dominions of 8 different independent 
 princes could be seen. 
 
 The village (8000 inhab., ¥/, Rom. Cath.) has within 
 the last few years completely altered its aspect. For many 
 years it was limited to a row of lodging-houses on the r. 
 bank of the river, but by degrees a new Ems has sprung 
 up on the J. bank, consisting of a group of handsome and 
 commodious residences, which are in some respects far pre- 
 ferable to those on the r. bank, being less exposed to the 
 sun, and, what is of no little moment to the invalid, more 
 retired, and farther removed from the bustle of the promenade 
 and Curhaus (rail. stat. also on the 1. bank). Among the 
 plantations at the back of the (1) English Church, higher up 
 6 * 
 
84 Route 22. EMS. From Coblenz 
 
 the hill, is seen the Schweizer Haus (Swiss House), a café 
 commanding a pleasing view. On the wooded summit of the 
 Muhlberg-Kopf stands a tower, much resorted to for the sake 
 of the view (comprising Stolzenfels), and reached by pleasant, 
 shady walks. Way back by the Lindenbach (*Inn), past some 
 silver works, re-entering the valley of the Lahn about 11, M. 
 below Ems. 
 
 The principal buildings are the Bath-establishment with 
 the four towers, the old Curhaus, connected by an_ elegant 
 open hall, used as a bazaar, with the Cursaal, where the 
 usual seductions of an elegant ball-room, supper and reading- 
 rooms, with apartments devoted to gambling are offered to 
 the unwary traveller. The new Bath-house on the 1. bank is 
 a large square building with two court-yards and gardens in 
 the middle, and two mineral springs, the water of which is 
 pumped up by steam. ‘The baths in this establishment are 
 better and more comfortably fitted up than those of the old 
 Curhaus, the latter being only separated by partitions which 
 do not reach to the ceiling. It also contains a new “in- 
 haling-apparatus.” A covered iron bridge connects this bath- 
 house with the walks on the r. bank of the Lahn. 
 
 The most celebrated springs are the Kesselbrunnen (117° 
 Fahr.), the Ardhnchen (79— 85°), and the Fiirstenbrunnen 
 (93—95°), all enclosed in the hall belonging to the old Cur- 
 haus. The principal ingredients of the waters are bi-carbonate 
 of soda and chloride of sodium, and they are most efficacious 
 in pulmonary and female complaints. About 150,000 bottles 
 are exported every year. ‘The annual number of guests who 
 visit Ems is about 5000 (in 1823 only 1200), most of them 
 belonging to the higher classes. The height of the season is 
 from the middle of July to the end of August. In the 
 evening between 6 and 8 o’clock the grounds of the Curhaus 
 are thronged by a fashionable crowd, which assembles at the 
 same hours in the morning, to drink the waters. 
 
 On the E. side of Ems the * Bdderlei, a rugged group of 
 slate rocks, rises precipitously from the. street. Half-way up 
 are the Hanselmann’s caves, not unlike small casemates and 
 embrasures, sinking deep into the grauwackian strata (origin 
 unknown). The Mooshiitte at the top commands a fine view. 
 (Way up by the old Curhaus.) The Winterberg commands a 
 fine view; a Roman watch-tower and the remnants of an in- 
 trenchment were discovered on the summit in 1859. 
 
 The railway to Limburg keeps the |, bank of the Lahn 
 till within a short distance of Nassau (11 min. from Ems). 
 Shortly after leaving Ems the train passes Dausenau, where 
 an old octagonal tower indicates the ancient fortification of 
 
to Wetzlar. NASSAU. 22. Route. 8&5 
 
 || the valley. Near stat. Nassaw the Lahn is crossed by an iron 
 
 bridge, beyond which Haupt’s Hydropathic establishment is 
 
 seen on the r., and a new hospital on the 1. 
 
 Nassau (Arone) was the birth-place of the celebrated 
 Prussian minister Baron von Stein (d. 1831). In 1815 he 
 caused a Gothic tower to be added to his residence in com- 
 
 | memoration of the war of liberation. Above the entrance 
 
 | are the arms of the family and the well-known words of 
 
 i Luther: “Kine feste Burg ist unser Gott” (our God is a sure 
 
 stronghold). The library contains portraits of Maximilian I, 
 
 Charles V., Luther, Frederick the Great, Blicher, &e. In 
 
 the upper rooms are preserved commemorative tablets on which 
 
 the most eventful days of the years 1812—1815 (war of 
 liberation) are recorded in gilt letters. The tower, which was 
 the favorite resort, and is replete with reminiscences of its 
 | former illustrious owner, may also be visited (fee 18 kr.). 
 
 The property now belongs to Count Kielmannsegge, the son- 
 
 | in-law of the minister. 
 
 Friicht, a village on the heights between Ems and Braubach (p- 93). The 
 forester has the keys of the vault, which is built in the form of a chapel 
 
 : The remains of the Baron von Stein are interred in the family vault at 
 | 
 | 
 | (fee 18 kr., for a party 30 kr.—1 #1.) 
 
 | On the opposite bank of the Lahn, which is crossed by a 
 
 | handsome Suspension bridge, rises a wooded eminence, sur- 
 
 | mounted by the ruins of the Castle of Nassau (fine view from 
 the tower), family seat of the House of Nassau, erected about 
 
 | 1100; below it is the ruined Burg zum Stein. The hill is 
 
 | encircled with promenades. A small open pavilion on a pro- 
 jecting rock commands a beantiful view. 
 
 The road to Wiesbaden (no diligence) passes at the foot of the 
 hill, then enters a beautiful valley, after which it crosses the high land to 
 Schwalbach (R. 38) and Wiesbaden (R. 37). 
 
 Soon after leaving Nassau the train passes the old castle 
 
 | of Langenau, formerly the seat of an Austrian family of that 
 name which became extinct in 1603. The watch tower and 
 
 | outer walls are well preserved; within the latter a modern 
 dwelling house has been erected. On the opposite bank of 
 
 , the Lahn rises the monastery of Arnstein, with its church and 
 other buildings, picturesquely situated among trees on a rocky 
 eminence. The castle, which was built by the powerful Counts 
 of Arnstein about the middle of the 13th cent., was in the 
 following century converted by the last of the family into a 
 monastery, and secularized in 1803. The still habitable buildings 
 were up to 1861 employed as a house of correction for Roman 
 
 Catholic clergymen. Near Obernhof are old lead and silver 
 
 mines, now worked by an English company. 
 
86 Route 22. DIETZ. 
 
 The train next passes Aalkofen, the “alte Haus”, the 
 fragment of an ancient nunnery on the heights of the |. bank, 
 and Laurenburg, a village with a small palace and ruined 
 
 castle, in very early times the residence of the Counts 
 
 of Nassau. 
 
 Before reaching the church, a path to the 1. ascends to the village of 
 Scheid (1'/, M.) on the hill, and, about 8 min. walk farther, again leaves the 
 main road and dese>nds to the r. into the valley of the Lahn to Geilnau 
 (i'/, M.). The Lahn describes a circuit of many miles between Laurenburg 
 and Geilnau, which the path just described cuts off. The mineral spring 
 (no inn) of Geilnau is situated 1'/, M. above the village, and its waters 
 are exported in large quantities, but it is never resorted to by the patients 
 in person. The valley between Geilnau and Balduinstein is extremely 
 picturesque. 
 
 The train proceeds in the valley of the Lahn and after 
 passing through the Cramberg tunnel stops at stat. Balduin- 
 stein (Noll), where the grand ruins of the castle of the 
 same name are seen rising from a narrow ravine behind the 
 village. High up on the r., a little farther off, the castle of 
 *Schaumburg overlooks the valley from a wooded basaltic 
 peak. It was once the seat of the princes of Anhalt-Schaum- 
 burg, the last of whom died in 1812, and now belongs to his 
 grandson the Archduke Stephan, who has resided in it since 
 1848, and greatly enlarged and improved it. The library 
 contains many works of value, and a collection of minerals 
 occupies the groundfloor of the new part of the building. 
 Live bears, eagles, and deer are also kept. The hot-houses 
 contain many rare and beautiful plants. Refreshments (good 
 and moderate) to be had at the farm-buildings. The footpath 
 from Balduinstein to the castle of Schaumburg is somewhat 
 steep, by the carriage-road a gentle ascent of 15—20 min. 
 
 Stat. Fachingen (inn) derives importance from the cele- 
 brated Brunnen of that name, from which 300,000 bottles of 
 mineral water are annually exported. The process of filling 
 and corking the bottles is an interesting sight. 
 
 Dietz (* Holldndischer Hof; Hotel Lorenz), a clean little 
 town, picturesquely situated on the Lahn, and surmounted by 
 an old castle (of the counts of Dietz), now converted into a 
 house of correction. The prisoners are employed in cutting 
 and polishing marble (found in the neighbourhood) ornaments 
 of various kinds which may be purchased in the magazine. 
 Permission to see the process, which is worth inspection, 
 must be procured from the director of the establishment. The 
 bridge which here crosses the Lahn is an interesting old 
 structure; it is supported by pillars erected on two others 
 which lie unbroken in the bed of the river like the fallen 
 tower of the castle of Heidelberg. 
 
 Beyond Dietz, on the 1. bank of the Lahn, is situated 
 
—————— 
 
 87 
 
 Schloss Oranienstein, erected in 1676, and still the frequent 
 residence of the Duke of Nassau. It was for several years 
 oceupied by the Prince William V. of Oranien-Nassau, the 
 exiled stadtholder of the republic of Holland, and great-grand- 
 father of the present king. 
 
 Limburg (*Preussischer Hof, near the post-office, R. 36 kr., 
 D. 48 kr., B. 18 kr.; *Nassauer Hof, and Deutsches Haus, near 
 the bridge) on the Lahn, which is here crossed by a bridge 
 erected in 1315, lies 3 M. to the N.E. of Dietz. High above 
 the town rises the *Dom, or Cathedral, with its 5 towers: 
 Basilicu St. Georgi erecta 909, as the inscription above the 
 portal records. The present strncture, however, one of the 
 finest churches in the transition style, belongs to the year 1235, 
 and is the cathedral of the bishop. The interior contains a 
 very ancient font, and in the N. transept a monument to the 
 Emperor Conrad I. (d. 918), founder of the original building. 
 
 3eyond Limburg the banks of the Lahn become less abrupt 
 for a short distance. To the |. Dietkirchen, which boasts of 
 the oldest church in the Duchy, is situated on a rocky eminence 
 rising precipitonsly from the Lahn. Stat. Hschhofen; then 
 
 Runkel (Wied’scher Hof), an ancient town situated on both 
 banks of the Lahn, with an extensive old castle of the princes 
 of Wied, a portion of which is still habitable. Near stat. 
 Vilmar are considerable marble quarries; then Aumenau, with 
 ironstone mines, and after a rapid succession of tunnels, bridges 
 and viaducts, 
 
 Weilburg (*Deutscher Hof; *Traube; Schwan), once the 
 residence of the Dukes of Nassau-Weilburg, who became extinct 
 in 1816. Their chateau, erected in 1711, is picturesquely 
 situated on a rocky eminence rising abruptly from the Lahn. 
 To the l. is seen the mouth of a tunnel, constructed in 1845 
 to facilitate the navigation of the river at this point. 
 
 The following stations are Léhnberg, Stockhausen, Braunfels. 
 The small town of Braunfels, the residence of the Prince of Solms- 
 Braunfels, is situated on the height to the S. Stat. A/bshausen. 
 
 Wetzlar see p. 41. 
 
 LIMBURG. 22. Route. 
 
 23. From Coblenz to Wiesbaden. 
 Railway journey. (Comp. Map R.R, 24, 27 and 45.) 
 
 By the direet railway, crossing the Rhine at Coblenz, in 3 hrs.; 
 fares: 2 Thlir. 17, 1 Thir. 221/,, 1 Thir. 6 Sgr. Return-tickets, valid for 
 5 days, must be stamped for the return-journey at the booking office. 
 Passengers who break their journey must get their tickets checked on 
 
 leaving the train. Views of the Rhine to the right. 
 [For the detailed description of the localities mentioned on 
 the following pages comp. R.R. 24, 25 and 34), 
 
88 Route 25. LORCH. From Coblenz 
 
 From Coblenz to Oberlahnstein see preceding Route. 
 
 Stat. Oberlahnstein (Hotel Weller; Hotel Lahneck), where 
 the line to Ems and Wetzlar diverges. As the train proceeds, 
 a view of the village of Rhense, and the fertile slopes and 
 woods beyond, is obtained. Stat. Braubach, at the foot of 
 Marksburg, is opposite to the picturesque village of Brey, 
 above which are situated Meder- and Ober-Spay. Beyond 
 stat. Osterspay, above which rises the castle of Liebeneck, the 
 river describes a long curve; on the opposite bank, at a con- 
 siderable elevation, stands the Jacobsberger Hof. The train 
 next passes through the village of Filsen, opposite to the 
 Mihibad, commands a fine view of Boppard, one of the most 
 beautifully situated of the Rhenish towns, and reaches stat. Camp. 
 The convent of Bornhofen and the foot of the “Brothers” 
 Sterrenberg and Liebenstein are now skirted. Above stat. Kestert, 
 on the opposite bank, lies the pleasant village of Hirzenach. 
 Beyond stat. Welmich, at the base of the “Mouse,” the im- 
 posing ruins of fheinfels on the 1. bank, rising above the 
 town of St. Goar, come in sight. 
 
 Stat. St. Goarshausen at the entrance of the Swiss Valley, 
 commanded by the “Cat,’ is next reached. The train then 
 penetrates the rocks of the Lurlet and Rossstein by means of 
 two tunnels, on emerging from which the handsome town of 
 Oberwesel, on the opposite bank, commanded by Schdnburg, 
 comes into view. Opposite stat. Cuwb, at the foot of the 
 castle of Gutenfels, is situated the Pfalz in the middle of the 
 Rhine. Farther up the river, on the l. bank, lies the ancient 
 town of Bacharach, behind which rise the picturesque ruins 
 of Stuhleck. The next ruin on the opposite bank is that of 
 Murstenberg, beyond which lies the village of Iheindiebach. 
 The train now intersects the village of Lorchhausen, skirts the 
 base of the ancient castle of Nollingen, at the entrance of the 
 Wisperthal, and stops at 
 
 Stat. Lorch. On the opposite bank, above the village 
 of Niederheimbach, rises the round tower of Heimburg, and 
 farther on, the picturesque castle of Svooneck. Again on 
 the 1. bank Trechtingshausen, and beyond it the castle of 
 falkenburg, at the entrance of the Morgenbachthal; then the 
 Clemenscapelle and above it the picturesquely situated Rhein- 
 stein. The train now halts at stat. Assmannshausen, the 
 usual point whence the Niederwald is visited; a thermal 
 spring (95° Fahr.) discovered here by the Romans, occasionally 
 attracts invalids. Skirting the base of Ehrenfels, and pass- 
 ing the Binger Lock, the Mouse Tower on an island in the 
 Rhine, and Bingen, at the influx of the Nahe, the train next 
 stops at 
 
89 
 
 Stat. Riidesheim. Steam ferry to Binyerbriick, fares 
 7 kr. or 4 kr. On the opposite bank rises the wooded 
 Rochusberg with its chapel. ‘To the 1., on the brow of the 
 hill, are situated the village and convent of Libingen. To 
 the |. of stat. Geisenheim, lies the castle of Johannisberg, with 
 the village of the same name, 2 M. distant; the castle is 
 | easier of access from stat. Winkel, whence it may be reached 
 .in 20 min. ‘To the |. the castle of Vollraths, another wine- 
 growing locality of the highest reputation, and to the r, the 
 village of Mittelheim. Opposite stat. Oestrich, on the 1. bank 
 / at some distance from the river, is situated Nieder-Ingelheim. 
 To the |. of the line lies the village of Hullgarten, amidst 
 vineyards of high repute; to the r. the chateau of Reichurts- 
 hausen; to the 1. the lunatic asylum of Hichbery, the abbey 
 | of KLberback, and the celebrated Steinberg vineyard. Beyond 
 stat. Hattenheim the train passes the MWurcobrunn vineyards, 
 opposite to which three picturesque and fertile islands are 
 situated in the Rhine. ‘To the 1. of the village of Erbach 
 rises the handsome tower of Schurfenstein near Avedrich, and 
 farther on, Pubenhausen, an eminence commanding a noble 
 prospect. 
 
 From stat. Eltville (Rheinbahn Hotel, at the stat.), a 
 diligence runs twice daily in summer to Schlangenbad and 
 Schwalbach. On the brow of the hill to the 1. is seen the 
 spire of Rauwentiul. ‘The line continues to intersect a series 
 | of vineyards, and passes several handsome country residences. 
 | Opposite stat. Niederwalluff, on the 1. bank of the river, is 
 | situated the chapel of Budenheim, whence the *Leniaberg (re- 
 | freshments at the forester’s), commanding a fine survey of 
 the Rheingau, may be ascended in 1 hr. The Nirnberger Hof, 
 / an inn on the heights to the 1., is another favourite point 
 
 of view. Beyond stat. Schierstein, to the r., is the Rhetn- 
 hiitte foundry, where the line quits the bank of the Rhine. 
 Passengers for Castel and Frankfurt proceed direct from 
 stat. Moshuch to stat. Curve, without changing carriages. ‘Lhe 
 N. entrance of the ducal park of Mosbach is in the immediate 
 vicinity of the station. To the r. are situated the extensive 
 new barracks of Biebrich, beyond which, on the opposite 
 | bank of the Rhine, rise the spires of Mayence. The line now 
 | runs parallel with the Taunus railway, and a pleasing viex 
 
 is obtained of the town of Wiesbaden, the Platte, the Neroberg 
 | and the Greek Chapel. ‘To the |. the buildings of the gas- 
 | works. ‘The stations of the Nassovian and Tannus lines are 
 | contiguous. 
 
 to Wiesbaden. ELTVILLE. 23, Route. 
 
AO 
 
 24. The Rhine from Coblenz to St. Goar. 
 Comp. Map R. 24, 
 
 Distances: from Coblenz to Capellen 3%/,M., Rhense 2!/,M., Niederspay 
 (opp. to Braubach) 1,M., Boppard 4'/,M., Salzizg 3 M., Hirzenach 2'/, M., 
 St. Goar 3'/,M.; total distance 21M. — By railway on the left bank see 
 R. 35, on the right bank by Oberlahnstein to St, Goarshausen in 1 hr. — 
 By steamboat in 2'/, hrs. (down in 134 hr.). Piers at Oberlahnstein, 
 Boppard and St. Goar; small-boat stations at Capellen, Spay, Camp, and 
 Hirzenach. 
 
 After passing through the bridge of boats the steamer 
 passes the once electoral, now royal palace on the r., and 
 beyond the new railway bridge, the picturesque village of 
 Pfaffendorf with its pointed spire to the 1]. 
 
 In a valley to the r., partially concealed by the island of 
 Oberwerth is situated the pleasant Hydropathic estab. of Laub- 
 bach, under the management of Dr. Petri (charges 8 1/, 20 Thlr. 
 per week for board, lodging, and med. attendance). The vine- 
 yards of (1.) Horchheim (*Holler) produce a good red wine; 
 the plain between this village and the mouth of the Lahn is 
 rich and fruitful (1). Niederlahnstein (Dougue) lies on the 
 r. bank of the Lahn, which is navigable as far as Weilburg, 
 and serves as a highway for the products of Nassau, such as 
 iron-ore, mineral water, etc. 
 
 Above the village of (r.) Capellen (*Stolzenfels; * Bellevue) 
 rises the royal castle of **Stolzenfels, the highest point of 
 which is 410 ft. above the Rhine. A broad and winding road 
 of easy access Jeads to it, spanned at one point by a hand- 
 some viaduct. Two Roman mile-stones are passed on the 
 road, and after entering the Alause (now stabling), a draw- 
 bridge is crossed and the castle attained. The public are 
 readily admitted, and great numbers of visitors avail themselves 
 of the privilege (fee 10 Sgr. for 1 pers.; 20 Sgr.—1 Thlr. for 
 a party). As only a certain number are conducted round 
 the castle at a time, visitors are not unfrequently kept waiting 
 outside, but the time is hardly misspent in the enjoyment of 
 the exquisite view obtained from the S.E. corner tower, im- 
 mediately contiguous to the entrance. — Capellen is a Rail- 
 way and Steamboat-station; a steam ferry-boat plies between the 
 stations of Capellen and Oberlahnstein. Carriage from Coblenz 
 to Capellen see p. 75; boat from Capellen down to Coblenz 
 20 Sgr. Donkeys to be had ‘at the foot of the hill, to the 
 eastle 8, there and back 12 Ser.; to the Kihkopf 20 Ser., 
 there and back 1 Thlr. Stolzenfels is 33/, M. from Coblenz, 
 and the Konigsstuhl 114 M. farther. 
 
 The castle of Stolzenfels was greatly strengthened, if not 
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STOLZENFELS. 24. Route. 91 
 in 1250, and: was in the middle ages frequently a residence 
 of the archbishops. Till 1688 it was garrisoned by the Electors 
 of Treves, when it met the usual fate at the hands of the 
 French, whose visit to this fair land is recorded, not by the 
 monuments they have left, but by the number of monuments 
 they have destroyed. In 1802 the ruin was purchased by 
 the town of Coblenz, and (1823) presented to the late king 
 Fred. William IV., at that time crown-prince. Since then if 
 has been completely restored at an expense of upwards of 
 53,0000. 
 
 The Chapel, a small but elegant building, is decorated with * frescoes 
 on a gold ground by KE. Deger, representing the Creation, Fall, First 
 Sacrifices, &e. — Ou the outer wall, above the garden-hall, is a fresco by 
 Lasinsky: the emperor Rupert and his nephew the Count of Hohenzollern 
 visiting the Archbishop of Treves at Stolzenfels, Aug. 20th, 1400. — At the 
 side of the entrance flight of steps, stands an ancient sculptured chimney- 
 piece with reliefs, bearing the arms of the city of Cologne. — The walls of 
 the “Rittersaal” are illuminated with six * frescoes, by Professor Stilke 
 of Dusseldorf, representing the principal attributes of chivalry: 1. Faith is 
 typified by Godfrey de Bouillon at the Holy Sepuichre after the conquest of 
 Jerusalem; 2. Rudolph of Habsburg sitting in judgment on the knightly 
 bandits represents Justice; 38. Minstrels accompanying king Philip of 
 Swabia and his consort Irene. on a pleasure excursion on the Rhine is sym- 
 bolical of Poetry; 4. Love is pourtrayed by the Emperor Frederick IL. welcoming 
 his bride Isabella of England; 5. Hermann von Siebeneichen, sacrificing his 
 life to safe the emperor Fred. Barbarossa, is the type of Loyalty; and (6) 
 the blind king John of Bohemia at the battle of Cressy, of Bravery. — The 
 larger ‘‘Rittersaal” contains a valuable and extensive collection of goblets, 
 armour, and weapons; among the latter the swords of Napoleon, Murat, 
 Blicher, Tilly, Koseziusko, &e. — The upper rooms contain a modern picture 
 of Gutenberg, at three different periods of his life, about 50 small pictures 
 by old masters, Direr, Holbein, van Dyck, Rembrandt, &c., an ancient By- 
 gantine cross, antique furniture, &c. 
 
 View. At Stolzenfels the narrowest and most romantic part of the valley 
 of the Rhine, which begins with the castle of Ehrenfels below Bingen, may 
 be said to terminate. The view from the castle is scarcely surpassed by any 
 on the Rhine, and comprises the Marksburg, Braubach, Khense, Oberlahnstein, 
 and a part of the lovely valley of the Lahn. Opposite to the castle is 
 situated the Allerheiligenberg, surmounted by a pilgrims’ chapel, a spot of 
 much pious resort. At the confluence of the Lahn and Rhine, at the extremity 
 of a fertile plain. stands the Romanesque Church of St.John, and below it 
 
 the village of Niederlahnstein, Farther down the river is the island of 
 Oberwerth, on which a convent formerly stood, long since converted into 
 a country house. — The magnificent fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, the strongest 
 
 on the Rhine, is one of the most conspicuous objects in the landscape; 
 opposite to it is Fort Constantine, and between them lies the town of 
 Coblenz; farther distant is visible the small town of Vallendar with its hand- 
 some church. 
 
 (.) Oberlahnstein (Hotel Weller; Hotel Lahneck) , mention- 
 ed in an old document as early as 890, is surrounded with 
 remnants of ancient walls, towers, and fosses. The Schloss, 
 once a residence of the Electors of Mayence, was founded in 
 1394; the new part of the building belongs to the last century. 
 On the bank of the Rhine is a depdt for iron-ore of varions 
 descriptions. (Railway to Ems see p. 82, station at the steam- 
 boat pier.) 
 
92 Route 24. RHENSE. From Coblenz 
 
 Behind Oberlahnstein rises the castle of Lahneck, beauti- 
 fully situated on a rocky eminence above the Lahn. It was 
 purchased some years ago by an Irish gentleman, who is 
 gradually restoring it with great taste and judgment; when 
 completed it will present an almost unique specimen of a 
 restored Rhenish castle. The old feudal proprietors would 
 hardly recognize their ancient strongholds in the generality 
 of the modern, so-called restorations. 
 
 About 11/, M. above Capellen is the Kénigsstuhl (king’s 
 
 seat), situated between the high road and the Rhine, but 
 partially concealed by trees from the steamboat passenger. 
 The original structare was erected in 13876 by order of the 
 Emperor. Charles IV., but during the French dominion fell so 
 completely to decay, that at the beginning of the present 
 century almost all traces of it had dis appeared: It was of 
 an octagonal shape, 24 ft. in diameter and 18 ft. high, and 
 rested on 9 pillars, the 9th being in the centre. The top was 
 eucircled by a stone seat, where the Electors held their meet- 
 ings. ‘The present building was constructed in 1843 partly 
 ont of the old materials. The situation was chosen on account 
 of its vicinity to the dominions of the four Rhenish Electors, 
 Braubach belonging to the Palatinate, Rhense to Cologne, 
 Stolzenfels to Treves, and Lahnstein to Mayence. Here many 
 emperors were elected, decrees made, and treaties concluded, 
 and here the Emperor Maximilian took the oaths, when on 
 his way to his coronation at Aix-la-Chapelle. Near the 
 Konigsstuhl is a mineral spring discovered in 1857 in the bed 
 of the Rhine. 
 _ On the rich and fruitful bank of the Rhine, opposite to 
 the Konigsstuhl, a small white chapel, situated near the 
 S. gate of Oberlahnstein, is visible among the trees, where, 
 Aug. 20th, 1400, the Rhenish Electors deprived the Bohemian 
 king Wenzel of the imperial crown. On the following day they 
 crossed the river to the Konigsstuhl, and elected the Count 
 Palatine Rupert III. in his stead. 
 
 Above the. Konigsstuhl (*/, M.) lies the small town of (r.) 
 Rhense (Aénigsstuh!; Siebenborn), once belonging to the 
 Hlectorate of Cologne, and still surrounded by the walls and 
 fosses constructed by the Archbishop Frederick III. of Cologne 
 in 1370. — Small boat to Coblenz 20—25 Ser. <A footpath 
 to Boppard ascends to the r. at the signpost, on leaving the 
 town by the S. gate. 
 
 The building Dabont 1 M. above Rhense, on the same bank 
 of the river, was erected by a company as silver smelting- 
 works, but has never been used; beyond it, surrounded by 
 fruit-trees, lies the small village of (r.) Brey. 
 
per 
 
 to St. Goar. BRAUBACH. 24, Route. 93 
 
 (l.) Braubach (Philippsburg at the upper, Arzbdcher at the 
 lower end of the village; Deutsches Haus, with beer-garden, near 
 the station), invested with municipal privileges by the Emperor 
 Rudolph in 1276, is commanded by the imposing castle of 
 Marksburg, 480 ft. above the Rhine. It was called the Brau- 
 bacher Schioss previously to 1437, when Count Philipp of 
 Katzenelnbogen founded a chapel in it, which he dedicated to 
 St. Mark, after whom the castle has ever since been named, 
 From 1651 to 1803 it was the property of Hessen-Darmstadt, 
 and subsequently of Nassau. It now serves as a State-prison, 
 and is garrisoned by about 20 men. The summit affords a 
 pleasing survey of the grassy dales in the rear and of a limited 
 portion of the Rhine. Several Swedish cannons of the 30 Years’ 
 war, as well as French guns, are exhibited to the visitor. 
 (Castellan’s fee 12 kr. for 1 pers., 18—24 for a party.) 
 
 Two paths ascend to the fortress, one at the back, and 
 another (cart-track) at the upper end of the town, passing the 
 ancient Chapel of St. Martin, and leading round the E. side of 
 the hill. The entrance is on the N. side. The little town 
 with its old watch-tower, towngate and church rising from 
 among poplars, with the castle in the background, forms a 
 charming picture, though somewhat defaced by the railway 
 embankments. 
 
 From this point a road leads over the hills to the Baths of Ems, about 
 (/, M. distant. Refreshments to be had at the Laknsteiner Forsthaus. not 
 far from Frucht, Fine view of Dausenau and the valley of the Lahn in 
 descending. 
 
 In the first valley above Braubach is a chalybeate spring called the Dink- 
 holder Brunnen; the second is traversed by a path which ascends the hill, 
 commanding a fine view, and leads to Welmich (7'/, M.), emerging from 
 the wild and rocky ravine at the back of the village near the ‘*Mouse” (p. 96). 
 
 Above Braubach are the (r.) villages of Nieder- and 
 Oberspay, connected by an avenue of walnut-trees, beyond 
 which the river is ascended in a W. direction. 
 
 On the wooded heights above the village of (1.) Osterspay 
 Stands the picturesque little castle of Liebeneck. 
 
 From Liebeneck to Camp (p. 95) a path leads across the high table- 
 land which commands a most striking view of the Rhine from Salzig to 
 below Boppard, and the heights of the Hunnsriicken, of which the Fleckerts- 
 hohe (see p. 94) is the most conspicuous. In the opposite direction this path 
 is less agreeable, as the ascent is steep and leads through sunny and shadeless 
 vineyards. 
 
 At (l.) Filsen the river resumes its S. direction. On an 
 eminence to the r. stands the Jacobsherger Hof, 500 ft. above the 
 Rhine, formerly a Jesuits’ college, now the property of the 
 Grammar School of Coblenz; from this point a much-frequented 
 mountain-road leads to Rhense, 3 M. distant, cutting off the 
 circuit of 6 M. which the river here forms. 
 
 (r.) Boppard (*Post, in the town; * Spiegel, on the Rhine; 
 Rheinischer Hof), the Baudobriga of the Romans, was once a 
 
 ——————————————EEE 
 
 — Se 
 0 — 
 
94 Route 24. MARIENBERG. From Coblenz 
 
 town of the empire, and from 1601 belonged to the Electors 
 of Treves. The name seems to indicate a Celtic origin. The 
 Notitia dignitatum utriusque imperii, a statistical review of the 
 Roman empire in the 2nd cent., mentions Boppard as the re- 
 sidence of the prefectus militum ballistariorum, and stones found 
 in the neighbourhood indicate its once having been a station 
 of the 13th Legion. The wall of defence which encloses the 
 interior of the town in a rectangular form, though much dam- 
 aged, is evidently of Roman origin and is constructed of the 
 concrete building-material so frequently employed in those ages. 
 The outer and far more extensive wall belongs to the middle 
 ages. Boppard, like St. Goar and Bacharach, once boasted of 
 an establishment of the Templar knights, the traces of which 
 may be recognized in the fragments of walls with round-arched 
 windows, situated at the upper end of the town. Knights. 
 Templar of Boppard are mentioned among the crusaders at 
 the siege of Ptolemais. 
 
 The Pfarrkirche, erected in the late Romanesque style, about 
 1200, is remarkable for its peculiar vaulted roof and the curious 
 construction of the supporting arches. The Carmeliterkirche 
 contains a good marble relief representing the Trinity, 3 
 monument of a Countess von Eltz (d. 1500). The old mon- 
 astery of St. Martin and the adjacent Franciscan convent have 
 been converted by the Prussian Government into a Reformatory 
 for juvenile criminals. 
 
 Marienberg, the large building which rises from the mids 
 of an orchard at the back of the town, was formerly a Benedictine 
 nunnery, but is now converted into a hydropathic establishment. 
 Below Boppard, on the bank of the river, is situated the Mihl- 
 bad, a private water-cure estab., the property of Dr. Heusner, 
 the government physician of the district. Average weekly 
 charge in both the above, for board, lodging, baths, and 
 medical attendance, 121, Thilr. 
 
 The finest excursion from Boppard is to the *Fleekertshohe (1663 {t.), 
 about 6 M. distant, and 1'/, M. to the 1. of the road leading to the Hunns- 
 rucken, which must be left at the fir-wood, soon after passing the mile-stone 
 marked ‘0,84. The top is indicated by a stone pillar. The view is very 
 extensive, and comprises the Seven Mountains, the Eifel, the Hochwald, 
 Idar and Taunus, and Monrepos (p. 67). A small portion only of the Rhme 
 is visible near Ehrenthal (p. 96). On the S.W. side, about */ M. from the 
 top, refreshments may be procured at the Mermicher Hof. The traveller may 
 avail himself of the diligence from Boppard to Simmern to reach the above- 
 mentioned fir-wood, where his path diverges to the I. Pedestrians on their 
 route southwards may, instead of returning to Boppard, proceed to Weiler 
 and Hirzenach. 
 
 The road from Boppard to the Moselle (9 M.) leads throngh 
 the village of Buckholz (1229 ft.), to which a guide (10 Sgr.) should be 
 taken. About 1'/,, M. beyond Herschwiesen, a road to the 1. descends to 
 the Ehrenburg (p. 125); thence through the Ehrenburger Thal to Broden- 
 
 bach. 
 
to St. Goar. BORNHOFEN. 24, Route. 95 
 
 Above Boppard, to the 1., is situated the village of Camp 
 (*Anker; Rheinischer Hof), so called from the remains of an 
 intrenchment on the hill ascribed to the Romans, but more 
 probably dating from the 30 Years’ war. (Path over the hills 
 to Liebeneck and Braubach see p. 93). A shady road planted 
 
 with walnut-trees leads along the bank of the Rhine from 
 Camp to the convent of 
 
 (l.) Bornhofen, with a Gothic chureh erected in 1435, 
 which, even at the present day, is a favourite resort of pilgrims. 
 On a rocky eminence above the convent, and surrounded by 
 vineyards, stand the twin castles of 
 
 Sterrenberg and Liebenstein, better known as “the 
 3rothers,” and connected with each other by a sharp chine 
 of rocks. Few are unacquainted with the legend of these 
 castles, which may thus be briefly told: 
 
 Conrad and Heinrich, the two sous of the noble knight Bayer von Boppard, 
 the owner of Liebenstein, were enamoured of their foster-sister, the beautiful 
 Hildegarde. Weinrich by an exercise of rare generosity tore himself away 
 and joined the crusades, leaving his brother Conrad towin the prize of which 
 he too hastily deemed him worthy. That his son and the fair bride might 
 still be near him, the old knight built the castle of Sterrenberg for their 
 reception, but his death occurring before its completion the nuptials were 
 deferred for a year. During this period Courad’s heart grew cold towards. 
 Hildegarde, and hearing of the valiant deeds of his absent brother against 
 the infidels, his soul burned to share his honours, and wearied of antinactive 
 life, he joined the crusades. Hildegarde now passed her days in the lonely 
 castle of Liebenstein, brooding over her sad lot, not doubting the affection 
 of Conrad, but weeping over the uncertainty of his return. Suddenly Conrad 
 returned to Sterrenberg with a lovely Grecian bride, and the outraged Hilde- 
 garde, stunned by the blow, shut herself up in the loneliest chamber of her 
 dreary abode, and refused to see any one but her attendant. Late one even- 
 ing a stranger knight demanded the hospitality of the castle; be proved to 
 be the chivalrous Heinrich, who, hearing of his brother’s perfidious conduct, 
 resolved to avenge his foster-sister’s wrongs. He accordingly challenged 
 Conrad to single combat, but before the brothers’ swords had crossed, Hilde- 
 garde’s figure interposed between them and insisted on a reconciliation, to 
 which they reluctantly consented. Hildegarde then retired to the convent 
 of Bornhofen, situated at the base of the rock on which the castles stand. 
 Courad’s Grecian bride soon proved faithless, and he, overcome with shame 
 and remorse, threw himself on his generous brother’s breast, exclaiming that 
 no consolation was now left him but his friendship. Thus their estrangement 
 ended, and the brothers continued to live together in harmony and retire- 
 ment at Liebenstein, whilst Sterrenberg was for ever deserted, 
 
 The castle of Sterrenberg was held as early as the 12th cent. 
 as a fief of the empire by the knights of Boland, and after- 
 wards came into the possession of the Electors of Treves. The 
 date and cause of its abandonment are unknown. It lies on 
 the extreme verge of the rocky height, and is separated from 
 Licbenstein by a thick massive wall. The castles deserve 
 juspection on account of the grandeur and extent of their ruins 
 and the view they command of the rocky ravines in the vicinity. 
 
 (r.) Salzig (so called from the weak saline spring which 
 
 » 
 
96 Route 24. ST. GOAR. From Coblenz 
 
 whole ship-loads of cherries are annually exported to the 
 Lower Rhine, Holland, and even to England. Farther up, on 
 a fertile promontory to the 1., lies the village of Nieder- 
 Kestert (Stern). 
 
 (r.) Hirzenach (Comes); in the rear of the village are 
 slate-quarries; the house on the summit of the hill, above the 
 village, is a quarrymen’s tavern. The small new Gothic edifice 
 at the upper end of the village is a synagogue. The handsome 
 building which was once a deanery, and the church, built 
 about 1170, formerly belonged to the Abbey of Siegburg. 
 (1.) Ehrenthal, a small village inhabited by the miners who 
 work in the lead-mines in the vicinity. 
 
 (1.) Weimich, a picturesquely situated village, with a small 
 Gothic church, is commanded by the ruined castle of Thurn- 
 berg or Deurenburg in the background. This stronghold, 
 commenced by the Archbishop Boemund of Treves, and com- 
 pleted by his successor Kuno von Falkenstein in 1363, was 
 derisively called the Maus (mouse) by the Counts of Katzen- 
 elnbogen, in contradistinction to their “Cat,” but Kuno enjoyed 
 such a reputation for courage that he was feared by cats and 
 mice alike. Here he died in 1888. ‘The ascent is somewhat 
 fatiguing, but the pedestrian is well rewarded by the fine view 
 from the summit, especially in the direction of St.Goar. The 
 interior of the castle is in a good state of preservation, and 
 contains a few points of interest to the architect. 
 
 (r.) St. Goar (Lilie; Krone) owes its name and origin to a 
 chapel, founded in the time of Siegbert, king of Austrasia (570), 
 by St. Goar, who preached the gospel here, and was after- 
 wards revered as a saint and invoked by the boatmen when 
 in danger. 
 
 St. Goar was till 1794 the capital of the Hessian “Lower 
 Grafschaft” of Katzenelnbogen (comp. p. 97), and has a more 
 imposing appearance than any other Rhenish town of the 
 same size, for which it is principally indebted to the extensive 
 ruins of Rheinfels in the background. The Protestant church, 
 built about 1468, contains, among other monuments, that of 
 the Landgrave Philipp (d. 1583) and his countess in marble. 
 A flaw in the altar is said to have been made by Gustavus 
 Adolphus in 1632, who, indignant at the damage done to the 
 church by the Spaniards, violently struck the altar with his 
 sword. The crypt on the E. side once contained the bones 
 of St.Goar. — The Roman Cath. church is adorned with an 
 old stone effigy of the saint with an inscription. 
 
 A curious old custom prevailed here till the commencement of the steam- 
 boat traffic in 1827. It is said to have dated from the time of Charlemagne, 
 and was called the “‘Hansein,”’ or Initiation. Every traveller who visited 
 the town for the first time was conducted to a ring attached to the wall of 
 
to St. Goar. ST. GOARSHAUSEN. 24, Route. 97 
 
 the Custom-house, to which he was secured. He was then obliged to submit 
 to the water or the wine-ordeal. If the former was selected, the luckless 
 traveller had to submit to a good ducking; the more agreeable alternative 
 consisted in drinking a goblet of wine to the health of Charlemagne, the 
 sovereign of England, the reigning prince, and the members of society who 
 enforced obedience to the ancient custom. The traveller was then crowned 
 and invested with the rights of a citizen and member of the society. The 
 crown and the goblet, together with the book in which the names of the 
 travellers were inscribed, are now in the possession of the landlord of 
 the “ Lilie.” 
 
 Rheinfels, the Ehrenbreitstein of the middle ages, rises 
 at the back of the town to the height of 368 ft. above the 
 Rhine, and is incomparably the handsomest and most imposing 
 ruin on the whole river. It was founded in 1245 by Count 
 Dethier III. of Katzenelnbogen, the friend of the Emperor 
 Frederick II., and a new Rhine-toll was here established. 
 Ten years later a confederation of 26 Rhenish towns, dissatis- 
 fied with the newly imposed burden, attacked the castle, but 
 after a fruitless siege of 15 months they were compelled to 
 withdraw their forces. Under the Hessian Landgrave Philipp 
 it was considerably strengthened in 1568, and in 1692 it was 
 bravely and successfully defended by the Hessian General yon 
 Gortz against the French General Count Tallard with an army 
 of 24,000 men. In 1758 the garrison was surprised and the 
 castle taken by the French, who kept it garrisoned till 1763. 
 Thirty years later, notwithstanding the great strength of the 
 place, the Hessian commander basely deserted it, and the castle, 
 with its valuable stores of ammunition and provisions, fell into 
 the hands of the French revolutionary army, Nov. 2nd, 1794. 
 Three years later it was blown up and sold for the insigni- 
 ficant sum of 60/7. The ruin now belongs to the king of 
 Prussia. The interior contains little worthy of note; view 
 from the summit limited. The custodian lives in St. Goar, 
 but is generally at or near the castle (fee 5 Sgr.). 
 
 (l.) St. Goarshausen (Adler, R. 36, B. 20, D. 48, S. 30, 
 A. 18 kr., beer, and baths in the Rhine; Rhein. Hof) may 
 be advantageously selected as head-quarters for excursions 
 to the Swiss valley, Lurlei, Reichenberg, Oberwesel, Caub, 
 Bacharach, &c., and offers many attractions to the traveller in 
 search of repose. The upper part of the town consists of a 
 neat row of houses, most of them new, and built close to the 
 river, from the inundations of which they are protected by 
 a dyke. The ferry to St.Goar is at the upper end of the 
 place; charge for 1 pers. 2% Segr., for several together 
 1 Ser. each. 
 
 (l.) The castle of Neu-Katzenelnbogen, commonly called the 
 Katz (cat), which rises behind St. Goarshausen, was erected 
 by Count Johann of Katzenelnbogen in 1393, and when the 
 
 BAEDEKER’s Rhine. : ¥i 
 
98 Route 25. LURLET. From St. Goar 
 
 family became extinct in 1470, came into the possession of 
 the Princes of Hessen, and was occupied by a Hessian garrison 
 till 1806, when it fell into the hands of the French, to whom, 
 like so many of the Rhenish castles, it is indebted for its 
 destruction. (Guide with the keys from St. Goarshausen, 18 kr.). 
 
 On the brink of the ravine at the back of the castle lies (r.) the village 
 of Patersberg, 1?/. M. beyond which, and 3 M. from St. Goarshausen, are 
 situated the handsome ruins of the castle of Reichenberg, erected in 1280 by 
 Count Wilhelm I. of Katzenelnbogen, and afterwards, during the Hessian 
 dominion, the seat of the governor of the district. Since 1818 it has been a 
 ruin, but is in a better state of preservation than most of the Rhenish castles.. 
 The portal with its granite pillars in the castle-yard has a Moorish look, and 
 the interior with its lofty columns and pointed vaulted roof is picturesque 
 and striking. The road to Reichenberg leads through the Haselbach Valley 
 (Brewery). the mouth of which is immediately below St. Goarshausen, where 
 % carriage may be procured for the excursion. Pedestrians may make a 
 beautiful round by ascending through the *Swiss Valley at the back of the 
 town, a rocky and well-wooded ravine, 1'/, M. in length, to Patersberg, thence 
 to Reichenberg, and back to St. Goarshausen by the road through the Hasel- 
 bach valley. Those who wish to ascend the Lurlei, must take the ‘Pro- 
 menadenpiad”’ for foot-passengers leading to the top of the hill, the last part 
 
 of the way through wood, a few hundred paces beyond which is a signpost 
 lion commanding a fine view of 
 
 indicating the way to the Hiihnerberg, a pavi 
 St. Goar and St. Goarshausen. From this point the road to the Lurlei leads 
 towards a group of bushes, where it finally diverges to the r. From the 
 
 Lurlei a path leads down to the Rhine. 
 p 
 
 25. The Rhine from St. Goar to Bingen. 
 Comp. Map R. 24. 
 
 Distances from St. Goar to Oberwesel 41/7, M., Caub 3 M., Bacharacte 
 13/, M., Rheindiebach 1'/, M., Lorch (Niederheimbach) - */, M., Rheinsteim . 
 33/, M., Bingen 3 M.; total distance from St. Goar to Bingen 18 M. — By 
 steamboat (preferable on account of the beauty of the scenery) in 21% hrs. 
 (down in 1%, hr.); piers at St. Goar and Bingen, small-boat stations at 
 St. Goarshausen, Oberwesel, Caub, Bacharach, Lorch and Niederheimbach.. 
 By railway on the left bank from St. Goar to Bingen, on the right bank 
 
 from St. Goarshausen to Riidesheim, in br 
 From Niederlahnstein to Bingen the r. bank of the river belongs to the 
 
 Duchy of Nassau, the I. to Prussia. 
 
 Immediately above St. Goar, -and nearly in the middle of 
 the stream, is situated the “Bank,” a sunken ledge of rocks 
 running out from the bank to the r,, and causing a species. 
 of whirlpool (Gewirre) which not unfrequently proves destructive 
 to the rafts if not skilfully managed. Even those of consi- 
 derable size are often partially submerged when passing this. 
 spot, being drawn down by the undercurrents. 
 
 To the l. rise the rugged and imposing rocks of the Lurlei,, 
 420 ft. above the Rhine. On the N. side of the precipice a 
 steep path, furnished with benches at intervals, leads to the 
 summit. The ascent may be accomplished in about 25 min. ;. 
 view limited. The well-known legend of the siren who had 
 her dwelling on the top of the rock, and, like other sirens of 
 old, enticed the sailors and fishermen to their destruction in 
 
to Bingen, OBERWESEL. 25. Route. 99 
 
 the rapids at the foot of the precipice, has been a theme for 
 the poet and painter in all ages. The famous echo is not 
 audible on the deck of the steamer; the pedestrian alone can 
 awaken it successfully. The sharp angle formed by the Lurlei 
 is penetrated by a railway tunnel. 
 
 To this rocky basin the salmon-fishery of St. Goar is 
 principally confined. The cool, shady depths and sandy bottom 
 of the river at this point appear to be peenliarly suited to the 
 habits of the fish. It is tantalizing to the angler to know that 
 they are only captured in nets, thrown from boats of peculiar 
 construction, and the epicure may hear with emotion that the 
 yield which formerly amounted to 8000 lbs. per annum is now 
 diminished by the increase in steamboat traffic to 1000 lbs. 
 It is of course in great demand, and frequently realizes a price 
 of 3s. per pound. The river is here narrower and deeper 
 (72 ft.) than at any other part. 
 
 In the bed of the river opposite to the Rassstein, a rocky 
 point to the 1., penetrated by a railway tunnel, a ridge of 
 rocks is visible when the water is low, known by the name 
 of the “Seven Virgins.” As hardly a rock or ruin exists 
 without its legend, so it is said that these rugged masses were 
 once seven fair maidens, condemned by the river-god for their 
 fickleness to this dreadful metamorphosis, 
 
 (t.) Oberwesel (* Goldener Pfropjenzieher, at the lower end 
 of the town, R. and B. 16 Sgr.; the sign-board, now in the 
 coffee-room, was painted by the well-known Disseldorf painter 
 Schrédter in commemoration of the frequent visits of Diissel- 
 dorf artists to this place; Trierscher Hof; Rheinischer Hof, on 
 the river), Oberwesel, the Vosavia of the Romans, was once 
 a town of the empire, but was made over by Henry VII. to 
 his brother, the Archbishop Balduin of Treves. To the S. of 
 the town rises the conspicuous *Frauenkirche (Church of our 
 Lady), a fine specimen of Gothic architecture erected at the 
 beginning of the 15th cent. The rood-loft (/ectorium) which 
 separates the choir from the nave deserves particular inspection. 
 The ancient wood-carvings of the high-altar, contemporary 
 with the date of the foundation, and two pictures said to have 
 been painted in 1504, are also objects of interest. One forms 
 an altar-piece in the N. chapel, the lower portion representing 
 the landing of the 11,000 virgins (see St. Ursula Church at 
 Cologne); the other on the N. wall represents the Last 
 Judgment in a series of small pictures. The N. chapel. contains 
 monuments of several knights and counts of Schonberg. — 
 The old gate-way (“Ese/sthurm’’) in the field near the church 
 was formerly the town-gate. 
 
 The Chapel on the town wall, on the side next to the 
 
 Tem 
 
100 Route 25. CAUB. From St. Goar 
 
 Rhine, commemorates the alleged murder of the boy Werner 
 by the Jews in 1286. According to the legend, his body was 
 flung into the river, and miraculously floated up the stream 
 to Bacharach where it was canonized (p. 101). 
 
 Oberwesel is one of the most beautiful spots on the Rhine. 
 The rocky ravines which intersect the mountains in the vicinity, 
 are favourite subjects for the pencil of the artist; they also yield 
 excellent wines, the most esteemed of which is produced in the 
 Engehélle valley, and is the best in the Prussian dominions. 
 
 Above Oberwesel rise the picturesque rains of (r.) Sch6n- 
 burg, the cradle of a once mighty race. It was the birth-place 
 (1615) of the Count Frederick Hermann of Schonberg, better 
 known as Marshal Schomberg, who fought under the Prince 
 of Orange, and in 1668, when in the French service, compelled 
 the Spaniards to acknowledge the House of Braganza. In 1668, 
 on the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, he was obliged to 
 quit the French service, after which he became minister of 
 state under the Elector of Brandenburg, governor of Prussia, 
 and finally passed over to England with the Prince of Orange, 
 and fell in the memorable battle of the Boyne, in 1690. His 
 remains are interred in Westminster Abbey. In the 30 Years’ 
 war the castle fell into the bands of the Swedes, and in 1689 
 was demolished by the French. The family became extinct 
 in 1713, and the ruin now belongs to Prince Albrecht of Prussia. 
 
 The small town of (1.) Caub (*Griinewald; Nassauer Hof) 
 is a place of some importance on account of its productive 
 
 subterranean slate-quarries, which are efficiently worked under 
 the inspection of the Government of Nassau. 
 
 The stately castle of Gutenfels, on a height in the back- 
 ground was, with the town itself, sold by the knights of Falken- 
 stein to the Palatinate. Here the English Earl of Cornwall, 
 who was elected emperor of Germany in 1257, fell in love 
 with the beautiful countess Beatrix of Falkenstein, whom he 
 afterwards married, on the death of his first wife in 1269. 
 In 1504 the castle was fruitlessly besieged during 6 weeks by 
 
 the Landgrave William of Hessen, a fact recorded in rhyme - 
 
 on a stone tablet in the wall near the Rhine custom-house. 
 In 1804 the castle became the property of Nassau, in 1805 it 
 was dismantled by order of Napoleon, and in 1807 was finally 
 abandoned to decay. The schoolmaster Muller at Caub has 
 the keys. A still more extensive view than that afforded by 
 the castle is obtained from the pavilion on the Adolphshohe, 
 15 min. to the S. of Caub. 
 
 Above Caub appears the “Pfalz, or Pfalzgrafenstein, rising 
 from the middle of the Rhine, reminding the traveller of the 
 castle of Chillon on the lake of Geneva, and likened by some 
 
to Bingen. BACHARACH, 25. Route. 101 
 
 to a stone ship for ever at anchor on the Rhine. It is a small 
 hexagonal building, standing on a ridge of rock, and was 
 erected by the Emperor Ludwig the Bavarian at the commence- 
 ment of the 13th cent, as a convenient tollhouse for way- 
 laying and exacting tribute from the passing vessels. The 
 entrance is on the E. side through a portecullis, several feet 
 above the rock; the S. corner bears the Lion of the Palatinate. 
 The well in the narrow courtyard, which is surrounded by a 
 sort of vaulted cloister, is sunk to a much greater depth than 
 
 the bed of the Rhine. 
 
 In 1194 the Emperor Henry VI. wished to marry the daughter of the 
 Count Palatine Conrad ta one of his friends or relations, but the young 
 princess had already gained the affections. of Henry of Brunswick. The 
 father dreading the Kmperor’s wrath, would not consent to the alliance, but 
 caused a tower to be built in the middle of the river below Bacharach, where 
 he kept his daughter a close prisoner. Her mother, however, secretly aided 
 the Prince of Brunswick in gaining admittance to the tower, where his union 
 with the princess was privately solemnized. When the princess was about 
 to give birth to a child, her mother disclosed the whole affair to her hushand 
 the Count, who, finding his Opposition no longer availing, in the exercise of 
 his capricious authority, passed a law that all future Countesses Palatine should 
 repair to the Castle to await their accouchements. Such is the ancient and 
 improbable tradition connected with the Pfalz, whence it also derives its name. 
 
 Here on New Year’s night, 1814, the 1st Prussian army- 
 corps under York, and a division of Russian troops under 
 Langeron, effected the passage of the Rhine. At the same 
 place a body of Prussian troops crossed the river in 1793 on 
 their way to France. 
 
 (r.) Bacharach (Post), called Ara Bacchi in the middle 
 ages, was celebrated in early times for its wine, and was u 
 to the 16th cent. one of the greatest wine marts of the Rhine. 
 Pope Pius II., better known as Aineas Silvius, caused a cask 
 of the wine of Bacharach to be annually brought to Rome, 
 and the town of Niirnberg obtained its freedom in return for 
 a yearly tribute of 4 tuns to the Emperor Wenzel. To this 
 day a vessel laden with the wine of Bacharach is annually 
 dispatched to the fair of Frankfurt. 
 
 On a slight eminence (accessible by a path on the §S. side of 
 the church of St. Peter) stands the ruined Church of St. Werner, 
 erected about 1428 in the most beautiful and elaborate Gothic 
 style, and in the form of a trefoil; it commemorates the 
 canonization of the boy Werner, who, according to a tradition, 
 was barbarously murdered by the Jews. Behind it (10 min, 
 walk) rises the castle of Stahleck (see p. 102). 
 
 The Church of St. Peter, or so-called Templar’s Church, is 
 built in the late Romanesque style, and is distinguished by 
 the symmetry of its proportions. A tower of. the ancient 
 House of the Templars is still to be seen in the yard of the 
 post-house. 
 
102 Route 25. FURSTENBERG. From St. Goar 
 
 In the adjacent valley of Steeg are situated the ruins of the old castle 
 of Stahlberg. The valley in latter times has received the appellation of 
 ““Blicherthal,” from having been in 1814 the scene of a skirmish between a 
 body of French soldiers and the troops of Blicher. ; 
 
 From Bacharach by Stromberg to Kreuznach. Pedestrians ascending the 
 Rhine who are already acquainted with this part of the river may vary their 
 route very agreeably by taking the following walk (7'/4 hrs.) over the hills. 
 From Bacharach to the Rheinbéller Foundry 9 M., to Stromberg 6 M., and 
 to Kreuznach 714M. The last stage being the least interesting the traveller 
 may prefer to take a carriage from Stromberg to Kreuznach (1 Thlr.). The 
 route is as follows, guide unnecessary: from Bacharach through the valley of 
 Steeg (Bliicherthal, s. above) to Steeg (1 M.), At the tower (1/,M.) with the small 
 pond the road ascending to the 1. must be taken. On the table-land (2'/, M.) 
 the road leads in a straight direction, bearing to the 1.; °/, M. farther a wood 
 is entered, on emerging from which (*/, M.) the road descends to the I. to 
 the village of Rheinbollen (2 M.), with conspicuous church-spire. The road 
 next leads through plantations to the Rheinbdller Iron-works (*Inn), 1'/, M. 
 beyond the village. The narrow and wooded ravine of the Guldenbach is now 
 traversed, on the r. slope of which is situated the modern castle of Carls- 
 burg, and, farther on, the Sahler Foundry. Before entering Stromberg 
 (Fustenburg), the castle of Goldenfels is seen rising on an eminence to the r.; 
 beyond Stromberg the extensive ruins of Fustenburg. Schweppenhausen 
 1'/,M., and Windesheim 11/, M., are the two following villages. Where the 
 road begins to descend-into the valley of the Nahe, 1'/,M. from Kreuznach, 
 a fine distant view is obtained. (Diligence from Bacharach to Rheinbollen 
 twice daily in 2 hrs., fare 10!/, Sgr.) 
 
 Above Bacharach rise the ruins of the once strongly fortified 
 castle of Stahleck, the cradle of the Counts Palatine, and 
 till 1823 their principal residence. The French besieged and 
 took the castle and town eight times in the years 1620—40, 
 and finally destroyed the castle in 1689. The extensive ruins 
 now belong to the Dowager Queen of Prussia, a descendant 
 of the Counts Palatine. View fine but limited. 
 
 On a rocky eminence to the r. rise the handsome ruins of 
 Fiirstenberg, made over to the Palatinate in 1243 as a fief 
 of the city of Cologne. In 1292, when Adolph of Nassau was 
 on his way to his coronation at Aix-la-Chapelle, so bold were 
 the vassals of the robber-knight of the castle, that they demanded 
 the usual toll of the emperor, and on its refusal, fired into 
 the vessel. It was taken in 1321 by the Emperor Lewis from 
 his opponent Frederick, and presented to his consort Margaret 
 of Holland. In 1632 it fell into the hands of the Swedes, 
 and in 1689-was destroyed by the French. Since 1847 it has 
 been the property of the Princess Frederick of the Netherlands, 
 
 sister of the King of Prussia. The brook which falls into 
 the Rhine at the foot of the castle was in ancient times the 
 boundary between the dominions of the archbishops of Mayence 
 and 'Treves. we . 
 
 (l.) The village of Lorchhausen. 
 
 Through the Wisperthal to Schlangenbad and Schwalbach, a beautiful 
 walk of 21.M.; from Lorch to the Aammerberger Mitihle 6 M., the Lauken- 
 muhle 2'/,M., Geroldstein 21/, M., Niedergladbach 3 M., Hausen 3 M., 
 Schlangenbad 3 M.; or from Geroldstein by Langenseifen to Schwalbach 
 10', M. 
 
—E 
 
 to Bingen. LORCH. 25. Route. 103 
 
 In the valley of the Sawer, which unites with the Wisper, 3/, M. above 
 Lorch, is situated the Sauerburg, 4'/, M. from Lorch or Caub, one of the 
 strongholds of Sickingen, destroyed by the French in 1689. In the neighbouring 
 farm-house the last of the Counts of Sickingen, descending in direct line from 
 the celebrated Knight of this name, died in 1836 in the most abject poverty. 
 
 (l.) The small town of Lorch (*Schwan, at the upper end 
 of the place, R. 48 kr., B. 24 kr., D. exc. W. 1 fl., wine and 
 cuisine good, pension 2'/, fl. per diem; Rhein. Hof), the 
 Laureacum (?) of the Romans, mentioned in an old document 
 as early as 832, was formerly the residence of a number of 
 knights who founded a peculiar institution for the education 
 of their sons, which was known under the name of “Schul- 
 junkerschaft,’ and thither the scions of the Rhenish nobility 
 were sent to be trained. The lofty and handsome Church 
 belongs to the 12th cent., and possesses the finest bells in 
 this district, which formerly was considered to belong to the 
 Rheingau. The old carved wooden altar, a fine font of ] 464, several 
 monuments of knightly families of the Rheingau, especially 
 that of Joh. Hilchen, the companion in arms of Sickingen, are 
 worthy of inspection. The inscription on the latter records that 
 Hilchen distinguished himself against the Turks, and, as field- 
 marshal in 1542—44, against the French. His house, decorated 
 with carved stone-work in front, erected in 1546, is the most 
 conspicuous building in the village. 
 
 Above Lorch rises a rugged cliff called the Kedrich, or 
 “Devil’s Ladder,’ which one of the knights of Lorch is said 
 
 to have scaled with the assistance of the mountain sprights, 
 and thus to have gained the hand of his lady-love. Opposite 
 to it, on the r. bank of the Wisper, which here falls into the 
 Rhine, stands the ruined castle of Nollicht or Nollingen, 
 rising 565 ft. above the Rhine. 
 
 The long village of (r.) Niederheimbach with the ruined 
 castle of Hohneck or Heimburg next comes in view. This 
 is the best station to disembark at for travellers ascending 
 the river and intending to visit Rheinstein (3 M.), Assmanns- 
 hausen and the Niederwald (comp. p. 107), Extensive retro- 
 Spective view as far as Bacharach. 
 
 The valley of the Rhine now becomes somewhat narrower. 
 To the r. rises the slender tower of Sooneck, commanding 
 the entrance of a mountain ravine. The castle, built by 
 Archbishop Willigis of Mayence about the year 1015, was 
 dismantled by the. Emperor Rudolph as a robbers’ stronghold, 
 and again restored in the 14th cent. The ruin now belongs 
 to the Prussian Royal family, and has been partially restored. 
 
 (r.) Trechtingshausen (Stern). On an eminence beyond 
 the village rise the ruins of Reichenstein, more commonly called 
 Falkenburg, destroyed by the French in 1689. In 1252 this 
 
104 Route 20. ASSMANNSHAUSEN. 
 
 robbers’ castle was dismantled by the Rhenish Confederation, 
 but was restored in 1261 by its owner, Philipp von Hohenfels, 
 who recommenced his lawless calling of a freebooter. The 
 Emperor Rudolph of Habsburg afterwards besieged and dis- 
 mantled this stronghold, as well as many others, and relent- 
 lessly consigned to the gallows the tribe of robbers of high 
 and low degree, whom he found in possession of them. At 
 the foot of the hill is the entrance to the *Morgenbachthal, 
 which for a short distance (114 M.) is one of the most 
 romantic side-valleys of the Rhine. 
 
 At (1) Assmannshausen (Anker; Krone), celebrated for 
 its red wine, the river makes a bend. At the mouth of a 
 ravine below the village the much esteemed Bodenthaler wine 
 is produced. In the vicinity traces of Roman baths have been 
 discovered. Path to the Niederwald see p. 107. 
 
 On the bank opposite to Assmannshausen, rise the towers 
 and pinnacles of Rheinstein, 250 ft. above the Rhine. Its 
 origin is unknown, but it is mentioned as early as 1279, and 
 was subsequently to 1348 frequently a residence of the arch- 
 bishop Kuno von Falkenstein. After this date we hear 
 nothing more of the name. In 1825—29 Prince Frederick of 
 Prussia caused the castle to be completely rebuilt on a new 
 plan; his remains (d. 1863) are interred in the chapel on the 
 S. side. The *Collection of old armour, objects of art, and 
 stained glass, is open to the public (fee 71/, Sgr. for 1 pers., 
 15—20 Ser. for 4 pers.). The view from the castle, as well 
 as that from the Swiss house, to which the public are not 
 admitted, is limited. 
 
 In the vicinity of the castle stands the Clemenskirche, 
 the origin of which is also unknown. It is indebted for its 
 complete restoration to the Princess Frederick of Prussia. 
 
 Shortly after leaving Assmannshausen the steamboat reaches 
 the Bingerloch, a rapid caused by the narrowness of the 
 rocky channel, the widening of which has been the work of 
 ages, from the Roman period till the years 1830—32, when 
 the last blasting operations took place. A monument, erected 
 in 1832, on the roadside on the 1. bank, records the fact that 
 the passage was made ten times wider than before by the 
 Prussian government in the reign of Fred. William III. The 
 ascent of the rapid is still attended with considerable difficulty 
 in the case of heavily laden vessels, but in the descent the 
 only craft liable to danger are the large rafts, the navigation 
 of which requires extreme caution. 
 
 Above the rapids rises the tower of (1.) Ehrenfels, erected 
 about the year 1210 by Philipp von Bolanden, a governor of 
 the Rheingau, the frequent residence of the archbishops of 
 
—_=s CUZ. 
 
 _——-— 
 
 EE 
 
 q 
 
 BINGEN. =6. Route. 105 
 
 Mayence in the 15th cent., much damaged by the Swedes in 1635, 
 and finally dismantled by the French in 1689. The steep slopes 
 of the Ridesheimer Berg yield the well-known wine of that 
 name, and terrace rises above terrace to secure the soil from 
 falling. The entire hill is covered with walls and arches, the 
 careful preservation of which may serve to give an idea of 
 the value of the vines. According to an old tradition Charle- 
 magne is said to have observed from his palace at Ingelheim 
 that the snow always melted first on the Rudesheimer Berg, 
 and that he therefore caused vine-plants to be brought from 
 Orleans and re-planted here. 
 
 Opposite to the castle, on a quartz-rock in the middle of 
 the Rhine, is situated the Mouse-tower, which derives its 
 name from the well-known legend of the cruel Archbishop 
 Hatto of Mayence; at the expense of the story, however, it 
 must be confessed that in all probability the real name was 
 Mauth-Thurm, or Tower of Customs, and that it was erected 
 in the middle ages by some of the robber-knights of the Rhine. 
 The ruins have been recently covered with stucco and converted 
 into a watch-tower, whence signals are made to vessels 
 descending the river, which are required to slacken their 
 speed when vessels are proceeding in the contrary direction 
 through the Binger Loch. 
 
 The valley of the Rhine now suddenly expands, and the 
 Rheingau, a district which was once in all probability a lake, 
 is entered. Immediately below (r.) Bingen the Nake unites 
 with the Rhine. Bridges over the Nahe, and stations of the 
 Rhenish and Rhine-Nahe lines, see p. 109. 
 
 26. Bingen. 
 
 Hotels on the Rhine: Victoria Hotel, White horse. charges in 
 woth; KR. 1. L. 18 kr. FP +» D. 1 fl. 12 kr., A. 18 kr.; *Bellevue 
 more moderate; Engli er Hof and Deutsches Haus on the Rhine. 
 
 Restaurants. Soherr,. in the Market-place. Beer at the Ehrenfels 
 on the Rhine, adjacent to the Bellevue. 
 
 Railway to Mayence and Cologne see R. 36, to Saarbriicken see R. 2 
 (from Rudesheim) to Wiesbaden or to Oberlahnstein see R. 23. 
 
 Bingen (pop. 5612) was known as early as the Roman 
 period. The rebellious Treviri fought here against the legions 
 of Cerialis in the reign of Vespasian. Tacitus (Hist. IV, 70) 
 relates that Tutor, the chief of the Treviri, retired from Mayence 
 to Bingen, where he crossed the Nahe and destroyed the bridge, 
 but the cohorts of Sextilius pursuing him and discovering a ford 
 over the Nahe, crossed the river, attacked and defeated him. 
 
 Bingen was also a point from which two Roman military 
 roads led to Cologne and Treves, and was protected by a fort 
 Which probably stood on the site now occupied by the castle 
 
 2 
 V9 
 
106 Route 26. BINGEN. 
 
 of *Klopp, destroyed by the French in 1689. The entrance 
 to the castle, which stands in private grounds, is at the back 
 of the White Horse Hotel; the gardens, to which strangers are 
 admitted (fee 12 kr.), command a pleasing prospect on all sides. 
 
 The seven-arched Bridge over the Nahe was constructed 
 by Archbishop Willigis on the foundations of the old Roman 
 bridge; it was afterwards partially destroyed, but again restored. 
 The Nahe here forms the boundary between the dominions 
 of Hessen-Darmstadt and Prussia. 
 
 The Gothic Pfarrkirche, or Parish Church, dates from the 
 15th cent., and contains an ancient font erroneously conjectured 
 to belong to the Carlovingian period. The Town Hall was 
 restored in 1863 in the medizval style. 
 
 The “Rondel, about 114 M. on the road from Bingen to 
 the Hunnsriicken, which diverges from the Coblenz road soon 
 after the bridge is crossed, commands a beautiful prospect. in 
 three directions, even surpassing that from the Rochusberg, 
 as Bingen itself and the castle of Klopp form a beautiful 
 foreground to the picture. Instead of crossing the bridge and 
 following the road the whole way, the pedestrian may cross the 
 Nahe near the church; after passing a country-house and the 
 old custom-house buildings, he will reach the roadto the Hunns- 
 racken leading to the Rondel, a spot planted with trees and 
 easily recognizable from a considerable distance. Near it is 
 the Elisenhohe, another fine point of view, 400 ft. above the 
 Rhine. 
 
 The finest points, however, and the most frequented in the 
 neighbourhood, are the Rochuscapelle (E.) and the Scharlach- 
 kopf (S.E.), each 1% hr. walk from the town. The carriage 
 road to the former, which cannot be missed, leaves the street 
 at the back of the Englische Hof, and after 100 yds. ascends 
 to the l., leading past the cemetery. 
 
 The *Rochuscapelle, or Chapel of St. Roch, situated on 
 an eminence 360 ft. above the Rhine, founded in 1666 at the 
 time of the plague, destroyed in 1795, and restored in 1814, 
 commands a noble prospect of the entire Rheingau. The 
 interior of the chapel contains a picture representing St. Roch 
 leaving his dismantled palace, painted in commemoration of 
 the restoration of the sacred edifice, and presented by Goethe 
 and others. At the festival of St. Roch (first Sunday after 
 Aug. 16th), admirably described by Goethe, thousands of 
 persons congregate here, and celebrate certain ecclesiastical 
 solemnities, to which the jovial ringing of glasses and open-air 
 dances form a somewhat incongruous accompaniment. The 
 chapel is generally opened in summer at 7 p.m. Near the E. 
 entrance a stone pulpit has been erected for open-air sermons. 
 
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NIEDERWALD. 27. Route. 107 
 
 From the Rochuscapelle a carriage road leads over the hill 
 on the same level to the *Scharlachkopf, about 11/, M. to 
 the S.W. The view is very fine, and quite different from that 
 afforded by the chapel; it commands the valley of the Nahe 
 and the populous Palatinate, dotted with numerous villages, 
 _and bounded by the Donnersberg. The Rhine is only visible 
 from the influx of the Nahe to the Mouse tower. A shady 
 _road through a fragrant grove leads from here along the 
 UN.W. side of the hill, and brings the pedestrian in about 
 |25 min. to the road to the chapel; in 10 min. more he will 
 reach the town. 
 
 27. The Niederwald. 
 
 Tariffs of Riidesheim and Assmannshausen. Donkey with guide from 
 Ridesheim to the Temple on the Niederwald (or from Assmannshausen to 
 he castle) 48 kr.; to ali the points of view, the castle and Assmannshausen 
 | or vice versa from Assmannshausen to Rudesheim) 1 fl. 24 kr. Guide alone 
 at half the above charges. Horse with guide 12—24 kr. more. Two- 
 horse carriage to the Niederwald and eastle 3'/, fl., including Assmanns- 
 hausen, 4'/, f.; the same excursion, including the Johannisberg, 6'/, fl. — 
 Boats from Rudesheim to Rheinstein, waiting 2 hrs. at the castle, and 
 returning to Assmannshausen, 1 fl. 54 kr.; to Assmannshausen alone 1 fi. 6 KISS 
 the number of persons is not limited, the boatman must take as many as his 
 boat will accommodate without additional charge. — Ferry from Riidesheim 
 to Bingen for 1—3 pers. 12 kr., for each additional pers. 4 kr. more; from 
 Assmannshausen to Rheinstein for 1—3 pers. 15 kr., for each additional 
 pers. 5 kr. more. The wealthier inhabitants of the place, however, generally 
 pay the boatmen so that they always receive at least 30 kr. for each passage. 
 Steam ferry-boat between the stations of Riidesheim and Bingerbriick; fares 
 2 or 1 Sgr. 
 
 Bingen boatmen’s tariff. From Bingen to Assmannshausen 1—6 pers. 
 1 fl. 10 kr., Rheinstein 1 f. 30 kr., Rheinstein and Assmannshausen 1 fi, 48 kPi, 
 for each additional pers. 6 kr.; return fare one-half more. The boatmen 
 must be provided with numbered badges, and there must always be two in 
 each boat; want of respect towards the passengers, or attempts to overcharge 
 are severely punished. 
 
 Plan. By water from Riidesheim or Bingen to Rheinstein, where the 
 boat must await the traveller’s return from the castle; thence to Assmanns- 
 hausen, the walk from which over the Niederwald to Riidesheim may easily 
 ‘be accomplished in 2'4 hrs, Guide perfectly unnecessary. The path 
 ascending to the Schloss cannot be missed, the only place where a difficulty 
 may arise is between the Schloss and the temple, but one of the boys at the 
 former will readily show the path for a few kreuzers. Riders are advised 
 to take their. doukeys or horses only as far as the Schloss, where they 
 ‘should be immediately dismissed, as the descent may be accomplished with 
 the greatest ease by the most ordinary walker. [From Bingen to Rheinstein 
 on foot (ferry across the Nahe at the church) is about 3 M. | 
 
 The Niederwald is a wooded height, the S. slopes of 
 which are covered with vineyards rising abruptly from the 
 Rhine, and is one of the most favorite points of view on the 
 Rhine. The ascent is generally made (after Rheinstein has 
 Deen visited) from Assmannshausen, where «the road enters 
 1 valley, on the S. slopes of which the celebrated Assmanns- 
 jaauser red wine is produced. A gradual ascent of ¥, hr. will 
 
108 Route 27. NIEDERWALD. ® 
 
 bring the pedestrian to Audhausen (near it the former nunnery 
 of Marienhausen, now employed as farm-buildings). At the 
 village church the path leaves the road through the valley, 
 and in 20 min. more the Jagdschloss (hunting-castle) is 
 reached, which, with the whole of the Niederwald, belongs to 
 the Duke of Nassau (*Restaurant, wines good, also R. 48 kr). — 
 A nearer path leads from Assmannshausen, ascending rapidly | 
 to the r. by the figure of a saint (3 min.), in 35 min. to the 
 Jagdschloss. 
 
 From the Jagdschloss the traveller takes a boy (6—12 kr.), 
 to open the Zauberhohle and Rossel. The “Zauberhohle” (magic 
 cave), 4/4, M. to the S.W. of the Schloss, is a short dark 
 passage, at the extremity of which is a semi-circular chamber 
 with three windows, commanding views, through cuttings in 
 the wood, of the Clemenscapelle and Falkenburg, the castle 
 of Rheinstein and the Swiss house. Five min. walk farther 
 in the same direction is the * Rossel (759 ft. above the river), 
 an artificial ruin, built on the highest point of the Nieder- 
 wald, commanding a beautiful and extensive prospect; to the 
 W. the valley of the Nahe with the Donnersberg and the 
 Soonwald in the background; to the r. the wooded heights 
 of the Hunnsruck. Far below the Rhine is seen rushing past 
 the ruin of Ehrenfels through the Bingerloch by the Mouse 
 Yower. On the opposite bank lies Bingen with the castle of 
 Klopp, sheltered by the wooded and vine-clad Rochusberg. 
 In the valley of the Nahe are seen numerous villages, and 
 Kreuznach in the distance. Below the mouth of the Nahe 
 is Rheinstein, with the Swiss house; beneath the latter the 
 Clemenskirche surrounded by trees, and beyond it the Falken- 
 burg. From the Rossel to Rudesheim is a walk of 11%, hr. 
 
 From the Rossel the path leads in a S.E. direction to the 
 (2 min.) Ado/lphshohe, exactly opposite the influx of the Nahe, 
 the Hermitage (10 min.) and a stone seat (5 min.) where the 
 path to the r. must be taken, which in 10 min. more leads 
 to the *Temple (628 ft. above the Rhine), an open circular 
 building, supported by pillars, situated on the brow of the hill, 
 and commanding a new and magnificent view, including the 
 entire Rheingau, bounded on the S.E. by the Taunus mountains, | 
 on the 8. by the Melibocus, and on the W. by the distant 
 Donnersberg. 
 
 From this point the road proceeds to the J., reaching a 
 signpost (5 min.), where the path to the ]. must be taken, 
 which will bring the traveller to Rudesheim in 14 hr. The 
 track to the r. is a steep and stony path for pedestrians only, | 
 and descends through the vineyards, but is little shorter than | 
 the other; during the vintage, commencing about the end of 
 
| kept a prisoner by his son Henry V. in December, 1105, in 
 
 * BINGERBRUCK. 28. Route. 109 
 
 August, this path is closed. Distance from Riidesheim to the 
 Temple 45 min.; thence to the Jagdschloss 40 min.; down to 
 Assmannshausen by Aulhausen 40 min. 
 
 28. From Bingen to Saarbriicken. 
 Comp. Map R. 24. 
 
 Distance 94 M. By the Rhine-Nahe line to Neunkirchen (p. 197) in 
 3'/, hrs.; from Neunkirchen (by the Prussian Saarbriicken line) to Saarbriicken 
 in '/ hr.; fares from Bingerbriick to Saarbriicken: 4 Thir. 4, 2 Thr. 26, 
 1 Thir. 26 Sgr. — The terminus station is at Bingerbrick on the 1. bank of 
 the Nahe, close to the station of the Rhenish railway, about 2 M. from 
 Bingen. Tickets may also be procured at the Bingen station. Steam ferry- 
 boat between Bingerbriick and Riidesheim. 
 
 The finest points on this route are the tract between Kreuznach and 
 Norheim, and the environs of Oberstein. The most remarkable part of the 
 line in an engineering point of view is between Fischbach and Birkenfeld, 
 where there are 10 tunnels and 20 bridges over the Nahe, The rocks through 
 
 which the cuttings are made consist chiefly of porphyry and dark red melaphyr, 
 many of which are very precipitous and most grotesquely shaped. 
 
 The line commences at Bingerbriick on the J. bank of 
 the Nahe and passes the foot of the Hunnsriicken mountains, 
 traversing vineyards and a fertile tract of country, passing the 
 old tower of Trutzbingen, erected in 1494 by a prefect of 
 Kreuznach, and several small stations, the most important of 
 which is Langenlonsheim (Weisses Ross) 
 
 Kreuznach and environs, s. R. 29. 
 
 After leaving the station the train crosses the Nahe, winds 
 round the E. side of the town, passing the saline spring of 
 Carlshalle, on the r., the jagged porphyry precipice of the 
 Gans, and, on the 1. bank, the buildings of the mineral spring 
 of Theodorshalle. Near the bridge, which crosses to thé ]. bank 
 of the river, rises, on the I., almost perpendicularly the rugged 
 cliff of the Rheingrafenstein (comp. R. 29). 
 
 Beyond the station of Minster am Stein the line passes 
 through a deep cutting, on emerging from which the Rhein- 
 grafenstein is again visible on the 1., and, separated from it by 
 the Alsenz, which here falls into the Nahe, the ruins of *Ebern- 
 burg (p. 118), now converted into an inn. 
 
 Immediately afterwards the train passes between the Nahe 
 and the jagged and precipitous cliffs of Rothenfels (900 ft.), the 
 best view of which may be had from the train by looking 
 back on the 1. side, after passing through two long tunnels, 
 and before reaching the village of Norheim. 
 
 The line now follows the picturesque windings of the valley, 
 passing the villages of Niederhausen on the r., and Oberhausen 
 on the 1, and a steep rock rising on the r., surmounted by 
 the ruins of Bockelheim, in which the Emperor Henry LV. was 
 
110 Route 28. KIRN. e From Bingen | 
 
 order to compel him to give up the imperial treasures, Kept | 
 in the castle of Hammerstein at Andernach on the Rhine. | 
 The village of Waldbockelheim lies in: a side valley, about : 
 
 2M. from the station of that name. 
 Half an hour’s walk from Waldbéckelheim are situated the castle and 
 abbey of Sponheim, the seat of one of the oldest families of the Rhenish 
 noblesse. The church built in the Romanesque style is an object of interest 
 for lovers of art. 
 
 On emerging from the tunnel beyond Boos (r.), the traveller 
 will observe on the |. the considerable ruins of *Dissiboden- 
 berg, a monastery founded by the Irish bishop Dissibodus 
 (d. 560), the first propagator of Christianity in this district. 
 It was abandoned to decay in 1560, and is now converted 
 into tastefully laid out pleasure grouuds, which afford a good 
 survey of the valley of the Nahe and the Glan, which here 
 falls into the Nahe. 
 
 Staudernheim (*Salmen) is in the dominions of the Land- 
 grave of Hessen-Homburg, and lies on the r, bank of the river, 
 and is connected with the station by the ‘ Landgrave-bridge.” 
 
 Sobernheim (Adler; Hoheburg), a small town of some 
 antiquity, enclosed by a town-wall, 
 
 Monzingen (Pflug) lies on the hillside to the r., and yields 
 one of the best wines of the Nahe. The next station is that 
 of Martinstein, curiously built. on a rock to the r., with a 
 church on an eminence surrounded by a fine group of trees. 
 Beyond it is a valley opening on the r., in which the grand 
 
 | 
 
 ruins of *Dhaun are situated. 
 
 *Dhaun, a castle of an old family of the Rhenish noblesse which became 
 extinct in 1750, was erected in the 12th cent., and in later years greatly 
 enlarged and improved, It is situated about. 61, M. from stat. Monzingen, 
 and 33/, M. from Kirn (see below). A relief over one of the doors, represent- 
 ing an ape in the act of giving an apple to a child, commemorates the fact 
 that a child of one of the Counts was carried off by an ape, but fortunately 
 recovered. Magnificent view of the valley of the Nahe as far as Lemberg, 
 and of the Simmerthal and the dark ravines of the Soonwald. ‘ 
 
 The traveller who takes the road from Monzingen to Dhaun should again 
 descend into the valley of the Nahe by Johannesberg (see below), the church 
 of which contains monuments of members of the above-mentioned family. 
 
 On an eminence to the r. is situated the church of Johannes- 
 bery. The valley here becomes narrower; the train passes 
 through a tunnel and reaches Kirn (* Post). It contains a very 
 old church, with a Romanesque nave, and Gothic choir, added 
 in the 15th cent. The town is commanded by the ruined 
 castle of Kyrburg (*Restaurant), once the residence of the 
 Princes of Salm-Kyrburg, the last of whom perished by the 
 
 guillotine in Paris in 1794. 
 
 About 11/,M. up the valley of the Hahnebach, which unites with the 
 Nahe at Kirn, are situated the ruins of Stein-Callenfels, curiously perched 
 on the side of the rock like a swallow’s nest. In the background is seen the 
 white castle of Wartenstein; thence by Oberhausen to Dhaun, and from 
 Dhaun by Johannesberg, or through the wood to Kirn, a pleasant walk of) 
 
 31/, brs. 
 
to Saurbriicken. BIRKENFELD. 28. Route. 111 
 
 After traversing an opener and less romantic tract, the 
 line again enters a more mountainous district at Sulzbach, 
 where the melaphyr cliffs become more abrupt, and confine the 
 river in narrower limits. After passing Fischbach, a bridge, a 
 tunnel, and another bridge, the train comes in view of Ober- 
 stein, situated most picturesquely on the opposite bank. The 
 station is at some distance from the town. Inn on the r. bank 
 (*Heindl, R. and B.15, D.10, S. 8 Sgr.). On the 1. bank are 
 the shops where the agates (see below) are sold at moderate 
 prices. Below Oberstein are huge masses of conglomerate, 
 the ‘Fallen rocks,” on the r. side of the road, which have 
 become, detached from the steep hillside and now stand leaning 
 against it. 
 
 Oberstein is the finest point in the valley of the Nahe. The 
 precipitous melaphyr cliffs, 400 ft. in height, on the |. bank of 
 the river, confine the town within very narrow limits. On their 
 summits are situated the ruins of two castles, belonging to the 
 Barons of Oberstein, who became extinct in 1670. Half-way 
 up is the *Protestant church, curiously built (12th cent.) into the 
 face of the rock, It contains an old tombstone, said to belong 
 to the founder, and a picture of the Oberstein family. The 
 flight of steps which lead to the church are opposite to the 
 bridge; the sexton lives in the last house on the 1., as the 
 visitor ascends. The new Gothic Roman Cath. church, constructed 
 of dark red melaphyr, lies on the r. bank of the Nahe. 
 
 Oberstein has a population of 3500 ('/, Rom. Cath.), the greater portion 
 of which is occupied in cutting and polishing agates, which were formerly 
 found here in great abundance. They are now, however, much more scarce, 
 and large quantities are imported from Brazil and Montevideo. A process 
 has recently been discovered, by which colourless agates are converted into 
 onyxes, sardonyxes &c., by the addition of colouring matter. On the Jdar- 
 bach, which falls into the Nahe near Oberstein, there are upwards of 50 pol- 
 ishing mills; Idar (Gdrlitz), 11/, M. to the N.W. of Oberstein, contains a sort 
 of merchants’ hall in which these wares are sold at officially regulated prices. 
 In Idar and Oberstein upwards of 100 so-called goldsmiths are engaged in 
 setting the stones in silver and other metals. — Beautiful excursion to the 
 Wildenburg (1'/, hr.) by the Katzenloch; guide necessary. 
 
 On leaving Oberstein the train passes through a rapid 
 succession of tunnels and cuttings. The town of Birkenfeld 
 (Emmerich), situated 3M. to the r. of the station, is the capital 
 of the principality of Birkenfeld, and now belongs to the Duchy 
 ‘of Oldenburg. At Wadllhausen the line attains its greatest 
 height (1225 ft.), the culminating point (watershed) between 
 the Nahe and Saar. It now descends to the district-town 
 of St. Wendel (Jochem), which contains a fine old Gothic 
 ehurch with pulpit of 1462. On emerging from the tunnel 
 (450 yds.) of Wiebelskirchen, the train reaches: Neunkirchen, 
 and joins the Saarbricken line. From this point to Saar- 
 briicken, see R. 45. 
 
29, Kreuznach and its Environs. 
 (Comp. Maps R.R. 45 and 24.) 
 
 Hotels. *Pfalzer Hof, next to the post-office; Adler, both in the | 
 town. — Berliner Hof, near the bath-island. Bath-establishments and |} 
 hotels on and near the bath-island: Curhaus, Englischer Hof, Kau- 
 zenberg, Oranienhof, Rheinstein, Hof von Holland, Ebern-} 
 burg, &e. 
 
 Carriage fares (to the following places and back with 4 hrs. stay): 
 Miinster am Stein one-horse 12/, Thlr., two-horse 21% Thlr.; Rheingrafenstein 
 and Minster am Stein 2—3 Thlr.; Ebernburg 2—3 Thlr.; Altenbaumberg 
 2—3 Thir.; Rothenfels 2'/,—3 Thlr.; Dissibodenberg 2'/,,—4 Thir.; Stromberg 
 21/,—31/, Thlr.; Rheinbdller Hiitte 5 Thir.; Schloss Dhaun 5 Thlr, Bridge 
 and road tolls are included in the above. Driver’s fee optional. 
 
 Donkeys at the Curhaus (to the following places and back with halt of 
 1/, day): Munster am Stein 1 Thir., Rheingrafenstein 1 Thlr., Ebernburg 1 Thlr., 
 Rothenfels 1 Thlr, A ride to the Gans, Rheingrafensiein, Ebernburg, and 
 back to Kreuznach, costs about 1'/, Thlr. The pedestrian would require 
 about 4 hrs. to make this beautiful round. He is reeommanded, when on 
 the summit of the Kiihberg, not to keep the carriage road, but to diverge to 
 the r. by the signpost. The path leads through wood and along the brow 
 of the hill, commanding a succession of fine views and a survey of the deep 
 ravine of the Salmen. 
 
 Railway to Bingen and Saarbriicken, see Ris 23; 
 
 Nahe-wines. The best are yielded by the vineyards of the Scharlachberg 
 and Kauzenberg, of Norheim, Monzingen, Ebernburg, Minster am Stein, 
 Winzenheim and Bosenheim. 
 
 *Statuettes made of an imitation of ivory (stucco saturated with stearic 
 
 acid) at Cawe?’s. 
 English Church Service during the season. 
 
 Kreuznach (11,000 inhabitants; /; Rom. Cath.) has within 
 the last 20—30 years become a place of importance on account 
 of its baths, which are particularly beneficial in cases of 
 scrofula, and is visited by about 6000 patients annually. The 
 baths are situated on and near the Badeinsel (bath island), 
 near the bridge over the Nahe. A row of handsome houses 
 has lately been erected here, among which is the Curhaus, 
 with a bath-establishment, conversation-hall, &c. The island 
 is in the morning and evening resorted to by the visitors, 
 who assemble here to drink the waters of the Elisabeth spring 
 (containing iodine and bromine), situated at the S. extremity, 
 and to enjoy the grounds and promenades, ‘Temporary stalls 
 abound with all those objects with which the traveller is 
 usually tempted, the most conspicuous among them being the 
 really beautiful agate wares peculiar to the neighbourhood 
 (p. 111). The Church on the island was erected in 1768 to 
 replace that destroyed by the French in 1689. The ruins of 
 the Gothic choir (1333) of the latter have been fitted up as 
 an English Chapel. 
 
 On the N.W. side of the town, on the 1. bank of the Nahe, 
 rises the Schlossberg, a hill laid out in private gardens and 
 pleasure grounds; the vineyards on its S. slopes yield an 
 excellent wine, The summit, which is surmounted by the ruined 
 castle of Kauzenberg, seat of the Sponheim family, destroyed 
 
29. Route. 
 
 RHEINGRAFENSTEIN. 
 
 113 
 
 ‘by the French in 1689, commands a fine view of the Nahe 
 
 valley from the Rheingrafenstein to Bingen. A lion hewn in 
 stone brought here from Dhaun (p. 110) commemorates the 
 gallant conduct of Michel Mort, a butcher of Kreuznach, who 
 sacrificed his life to save his Prince, Johann von Sponheim, 
 in the battle of Sprendlingen (414, M. to the E. of Kreuznach), 
 which the latter fought in 1279 against the Archbishop Werner 
 of Mayence. Kreuznach was from the 13th to the 15th cent. the 
 capital of the dominions of the Counts of Sponheim, and 
 afterwards became subject to the Electors Palatine. 
 
 In the valley of the Nahe, 1 M. above Kreuznach, in Prussian 
 territory, but the property of the Grand-duke of Hessen, are 
 situated the saline springs of Carls- and Theodorshalle, the 
 baths in connection with which are a private undertaking 
 (Hotel Rees; Foreith; R. in both 3—5 Thir. per week). 
 
 At Miinster am Stein, 2)/, M. from Kreuznach, are 
 extensive salt-works belonging to the Prussian Government, and 
 warm saline baths (87° Fahr.). Good accommodation may be 
 
 ‘had at the springs, or in the village (Curhaus; Hotel Low). 
 
 Here the *Rheingrafenstein, a porphyry cliff, rises almost 
 
 \perpendicularly from the Nahe to the height of 420 ft. The 
 
 river should be crossed near the saline springs (to the l. a 
 *restaurant), opposite to which a somewhat steep but easily 
 accessible path leads to the top, which commands a fine view. 
 The boldly situated ruined castle, built in the 11th cent., was 
 
 ‘once a residence of the “Rheingrafen” (or Rhenish counts), 
 
 but was blown up by the French in 1689. The new castle, 
 farm-buildings, vineyards, &c., are now the property of the 
 Prince of Solms-Braunfels, who sometimes resides here in the 
 summer. (Direct path from Krenznach to the Rheingrafen- 
 stein, see R. 48.) 
 
 The *Gans (1070 ft.), °*/,M. to the N.E. of the Rheingrafen- 
 stein, commands a still more extensive view, comprising the 
 Nahethal as far as Bingen, a portion of the Rheingau, the 
 Rochuscapelle, Johannisberg, and the course of the Rhine; 
 far below are the Rheingrafenstein and Ebernburg, and in the 
 distance to the |. the Donnersberg; in the valley the village 
 of Minster am Stein, farther up Norheim, and on the opposite 
 bank of the river the barren cliffs of Rothenfels. 
 
 Opposite to the Rheingrafenstein, to the W., is situated the 
 ruined castle of *Ebernburg, once the stronghold of Franz 
 von Sickingen (d. 1523, see p. 103), and which at that time 
 often served as an asylum for outlaws and fugitives. Under 
 
 ‘his roof several of the early Reformers found shelter from 
 
 || persecution, and Ulrich von Hutten here composed his letters 
 
 to Charles V., to the German nobility and nation. Shortly after 
 BAEDEKER’S Khine. 8 
 
114 Route 30. SAARLOUIS. 
 
 Sickingen’s death the castle fell into the hands of the Electors 
 of Treves, Hessen, and the Palatinate. It was fortified by the 
 French in 1689, but, in accordance with the stipulations of 
 the peace of Ryswyck in 1698, it was again dismantled. Out 
 of the ruins rises a pinnacled building of strange appearance, 
 built by the present owner, and employed as an *inn. It 
 contains portraits of Sickingen and his wife, of Ulrich von | 
 Hutten, and others. The weapons, bullets &c., found in the | 
 old well (295 ft. deep), as well as several old sculptures, are 
 to be seen in the castle yard. The prospect is fine, especially 
 that of the valley of the Alsenz, with the ruins of Kronenburg 
 in the background. 
 
 The view from the *Rothenfels, a porphyry cliff, rising 
 precipitously from the valley to the height of 900 ft., surpasses. 
 those commanded by the Gans and Ebernburg, as it embraces 
 the valley of the Nahe as far as the Lemberg and the Alsenz- 
 thal to the Moschellandsberg. The distant view is quite as | 
 extensive as that from the Gans. ‘The footpath leading to it 
 ascends from the saline springs through shady woods. Donkeys 
 and conveyance, see p. 112. 
 
 Two delightful but more distant excursions may be taken 
 from Kreuznach to the Dissibodenberg, and Dhaun (p. 110), 
 which may best be reached by railway. — From Kreuznach 
 by Stromberg to Bacharach, see p. 101. 
 
 30. From Saarbriicken to Treves and 
 Luxembourg. 
 
 By railway to Treves in 2?/, hrs.; fares: 2 Thir. 15!/,, 1 Thix, 22'/,. 
 
 1 Thir. 5 Sgr.; to Luxembourg in “3!, hrs.; fares: 3 Thir. 27, 2 Thir. 16, 
 1 Thir, 24 Ser. 
 
 The line follows the course of the Saar, the most picturesque 
 parts of which are between Saarbricken and Saarlouis, and 
 afterwards between Mettlach and Saarburg. 
 
 Saarlouis (*Rheinischer Hof; Zwei Mohren), a Prussian 
 fortress built by WVauban within one year, in consequence of 
 a bet with Louis XIV., and the birthplace of the unfortunate 
 Marshal Ney; the house in which he was born is indicated 
 by a marble tablet. 
 
 The next stations are Dillingen, Beckingen, and Merzig 
 (Trierscher Hof), at the last of which are the remnants of a 
 pointed-arched piazza of the 12th cent. 
 
 At Mettlach (before reaching which a long tunnel is passed 
 through) are the buildings which once belonged to a Benedictine 
 abbey, founded in the 7th cent., now occupied by the extensive 
 stone-ware manufactory of Villeroy and Boch, one of the most 
 important in Germany. 
 
SAARBURG. 115 
 
 At Mettlach the Saar makes a considerable circuit, which the line avoids 
 by means of the above-mentioned tunnel]. The N. point of the hill which it 
 penetrates (4'/, M. to the N.W. of Mettlach, reached by a pretty, shady walk) 
 is called the *Clef, which affords a fine survey of the two arms of the 
 valley of the Saar, separated by a narrow strip of land, on which stands the 
 ruined castle of Montclair, destroyed as e: arly as 1350 by the Elector Balduin 
 of Treves 
 
 One mile W. from the Clef lies the village of Orscholz (*Thiellemanns) 
 from which a carriage road leads to Weiten, 2'/,M. to the N. A mile farther 
 in the same direction is the old castle of Frewdenbur g, and 1 M, beyond it 
 a signpost indicates the way to the village of Castell. Near it, on a bold 
 rock overhanging the Saar, is an old chapel restored by the late king Fred. 
 William [V. in 1880, when Crown-prince, and to which he caused the bones 
 of his ancestor, the blind king John of Bohemia who fell at Cressy in 1346, 
 
 30. Route. 
 
 to be transported. he castellan lives in the villa: ge below. 
 At the Prussian village of Nennig | (8 M. to the W. of Freudenburg) is a 
 remarkably fine Roman *Mosaic-jloor, 50 by 33 ft. It represents 8 different 
 
 pictures, the principal being a combat of gladiators surrounded by groups 
 of animals and athletes, 
 
 The line still keeps the r. bank of the Saar, and its lofty 
 
 _embankments traverse the grauwackian hills, between which 
 | the river flows. As the train approaches Saarburg, the above- 
 
 mentioned chapel of Custel/ is seen rising on a precipitous rock 
 
 ion the |]. bank. 
 
 Saarburg (Post, carriage to Castell [see above] 21, Thir.; 
 *Trierscher Hof) is picturesquely situated in a basin formed 
 
 ‘by the surrounding hills, and overtopped by the considerable 
 iruins of a castle of the former Electors of Treves. The Lewk, 
 
 which here unites with the Saar, forms a waterfall, 60 ft. in 
 
 height, near the ‘ Post.” 
 
 The line still continues in the valley of the Saar, passing 
 d y] D 
 
 several wine-producing villages, till it reaches Conz, the Con- 
 | situum of the Romans, immediately below which the valley of 
 
 the Moselle is entered. The bridge over the Saar at Conz is 
 mentioned by the Roman poet Ausonius (d. 392) in his poem 
 entitled ‘‘Mosella,” but the present structure was erected by 
 Clemens Wenceslaus, the last Elector of Treves, the original 
 bridge having-been destroyed by the French under Marshal Crequi, 
 on their retreat on the 11th of August, 1675, when defeated by 
 the imperial confederates under George W illiam of Brunswick. 
 
 The railway here crosses the Moselle by a massive stone 
 
 ibridge. On the |. bank the line to Treves diverges; the station 
 
 is near the old Moselle bridge. Treves, see p. 117. 
 
 The Luxembourg line next passes the village of Iged. 
 The celebrated * * Monument of Igel (p. 121), the most beautiful 
 Roman relic on this side of the Alps, is visible from the 
 train. Above lgel are extensive gypsum and lime quarries. 
 Before reaching stat. Wasserbillig the line crosses the frontier 
 of Luxembourg; scenery picturesque; the Sawer (Sure) here 
 unites with the Moselle, after having for a considerable distance 
 towards the N. formed the boundary between Prussia and 
 
 g* 
 
116 Route 30. LUXEMBOURG. Fortifications. 
 
 Luxembourg. Near stat. Mertert the line quits the valley of 
 the Moselle and ascends that of the Sire. After passing several 
 minor stations, the train crosses the Pulverthal by a viaduct 
 800 ft. in length and 100 ft. in height; the station, which is 
 situated on ther. side of the Petrusthal, is connected with the 
 town by means of a handsome bridge. 
 
 Luxembourg, formerly Liitzelburg (Hotel de Cologne; Hotel 
 de Luxembourg), a fortress of the German confederation with a 
 Prussian garrison (6000 men) and a pop. of 12,170, is the | 
 capital of the duchy of the same name, now subject to the 
 king of Holland. The situation of the town is at once peculiar 
 and picturesque. The upper portion is perched upon a rocky 
 table-land, connected with the open country towards the W. 
 only, whilst the other three sides are bounded by abrupt 
 precipices, 200 ft. in height, at the base of which flows the | 
 Petrusbach and the Alzette (Alzig); beyond these streams again 
 rise equally abrupt walls of rock. In this narrow ravine lies 
 the lower portion of the town, distinguished by its industrial 
 animation, and consisting of Pfaffenthal, the N. suburb, and 
 Clausen and Grund, the S. suburbs separated by a rocky ridge 
 termed le Bouc (Bock). The valley of the Alzette, studded 
 with numerous habitations, and occasionally intersected by the | 
 walls of the fortress, forms a natural fosse. The view of the 
 town with its variety of mountain and valley, gardens and 
 rugged rocks, handsome military edifices and groups of trees, 
 as seen from the Treves road, is singularly striking. This| 
 imposing aspect is enhanced by the gigantic railway viaducts, 
 and the handsome, colossal bridge which connects the railway | 
 station with the opposite side of the valley. 
 
 The fortifications combine the massive proportions of 
 modern structures of this description with the boldness of 
 ancient mountain castles. The most interesting portion is the 
 Bouc (Bock), a narrow projecting ridge, honeycombed from top 
 to bottom with casemates, loopholes and embrasures, by which 
 the valley of the Alzette is commanded in all directions. On 
 this ridge is constructed the road to Treves, descending from 
 the upper part of the town by numerous windings. 
 
 The construction of these works has during a period of 
 500 years gradually progressed under various possessors, — 
 Henry IV., Count of Luxembourg, afterwards German emperor 
 as Henry VII. (d. 1312), his son John, the blind king of Bohemia 
 (killed at the battle of Cressy in 1846), the Burgundians, the 
 Spaniards, the French (whose eminent military engineer Vauban, 
 under Louis XIV., reconstructed a great portion of the fortress), 
 and finally the German Confederation. Luxembourg is de- 
 signated by Carnot as “la plus forte place de l’ Europe apres| 
 
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 TREVES. 31. Route. 117 
 Gibraltar, le seul point d’appui pour attaquer la France du cété 
 de la Moselle.” 
 
 Beyond the fortifications and the delightful environs Luxem- 
 bourg possesses little to arrest the traveller. Of the magnificent 
 castle of the Spanish Governor Count Mansfeld (1545— 1604) 
 no vestige is left, with the exception of a Gateway in the 
 lower part of the town, into which several Roman reliefs and 
 inscriptions are built. The celebrated Mansfeld Gardens 
 and parks now only nominally exist in a walk along the E. 
 slope of the hill, in the vicinity of the Treves Gate, which 
 however merits a visit on account of the striking view it 
 commands. The traveller who has sufficient leisure will be 
 well repaid by a walk through the entire valley. 
 
 ol. Treves. 
 
 Hotels. *Trierscher Hof (Pl. a), R. 20, L. 5, B. 10 Sgr. *Rothes 
 Haus (PI. b) (similar prices), formerly senate-house. *Luxemb urger Hof 
 (Pl. c) and *Stadt Venedig (Pl. d), both good second-class houses with 
 moderate charges. 
 
 Cafés. Fischer, in the market-place. Bellevue and Schneider’s 
 Hof, both on an eminence on the 1. bank of the Moselle, commanding a 
 magnificent view, */, M. distant from the ferry at Zurlauben at the lower end 
 of the town; back to Treves by Zurlauben, passing the entrance to the Pallien- 
 Thal, a pretty glimpse of which is obtained through the arch of a bridge 
 \built by Napoleon. 
 
 \_ Carriages. wo-horse carriages 4 Thlr. per diem; to gel (p. 115) 2 Thir., 
 ‘one-horse 1 Phir, 10 Sgr. 
 
 Railway station on the 1. bank of the Moselle. Railway to Saar- 
 
 ibrucken, see R. 30, and to Luxembourg, 
 
 Telegraph Office near the Neuthor. 
 
 Steamboat to Coblenz, see p. 121. 
 
 Treves (Ger. Trier), said to be the oldest town in German 4 
 
 jwas the capital of the Treviri, a race of the Belgic Gauls, 
 
 conquered B.C. 56 by Cesar, who converted it into a Roman 
 
 ‘colony under the name of Augusta Trevirorum. The new colony 
 | increased rapidly in importance, and was on more occasions 
 
 than one the residence of the Emperors. Under Constantine 
 
 ithe Great it was the capital of the whole of Gaul, and had 
 
 ( 
 
 its senate, magistrates, nobility, and priesthood; and with its 
 arts, sciences, and extensive commercial relations became no 
 mean rival of Imperial Rome itself. The relics and remnants 
 of buildings belonging to that age with which the vicinity 
 ‘abounds, are incontestibly the finest on this side of the Alps. 
 
 Upon the introduction of Christianity by Constantine, Agricius 
 of Antioch was in 328 elected first Bishop of Treves, which 
 for nearly 15 centuries continued to be the residence of the 
 bishops, archbishops, and electors, till Clemens Wenceslaus, 
 the last elector, transferred his residence to Coblenz in 1786. 
 Qn Aug. 10th, 1794, the French took the town, exacted 
 
118 Route 37. TREVES. Porta Nigra. 
 
 from it a contribution of 114, million franes, and in 1802 
 abolished all the monasteries and religious establishments. 
 Till 1815 Treves was the chief town of the Department of 
 the Saar, when it was made over to Prussia. Its population 
 is 17,240 (1500 Prot., and 2000 -soldiers). The vine-clad hills | 
 in the environs, the wooded heights, the rich and-fruitful plain 
 in which the town, with its red sandstone walls and numerous | 
 towers, is situated, form a most picturesque and striking 
 landscape. : 
 
 The most important and at the same time the most in- 
 teresting and best preserved of the Roman antiquities of Treves | 
 is the *Porta Nigra (Rémerthor, Simeonsthor, Pl. 21) at the 
 N. end of the town. ‘The dimensions of this magnificent relic 
 are: length 115 ft., height 74—93 ft, breadth including the 
 wings 167 ft. It consists of three different stories, with two | 
 gateways, 23 ft. in height, and is constructed of huge, un- 
 cemented blocks of lias sandstone, blackened by time. In 
 1035 this structure was converted into a church, and the lower 
 story filled up, and in this state it remained till 1817, when 
 it was restored to its ancient condition and use as a gateway 
 by the Prussian government. In the part formerly used as 
 the choir a collection of Roman antiquities is exhibited by 
 the custodian of the baths. 
 
 Next in interest are the *Roman Baths (PI. 24), entered | 
 from the Promenade and also through a wicket-gate from the 
 Esplanade (5 Sgr.), forming the S.E. corner of the town. They | 
 were as late as 1817 almost entirely buried beneath a mass of | 
 earth and rubbish, but this has been removed by the Prussian | 
 government, and the spacious apartments, halls, and channels 
 for hot air, carefully and tastefully constructed of large bricks | 
 and small blocks of limestone, are now completely exposed 
 to view and preserved from the farther ravages of time. The 
 summit is reached by a steep spiral stair-case, and affords a 
 good survey of the structure itself and the town. 
 
 On a rising ground about 500 yds. from the Baths is the) 
 * Amphitheatre, termed by the inhabitants the Kaskeller (cheese-| 
 cellar), situated among vineyards. This arena, still in excellent 
 preservation, has a diameter from N. to S. of 225, and) 
 from E. to W. 156 ft., and was capable of accommodating 
 57,000 spectators. Here Constantine the Great sullied his fame 
 in the year 306 by causing several thousand captive Franks, | 
 with their leaders Ascarich and Ragais, to be torn to pieces by 
 wild beasts, which barbarous scene was repeated in 313, when 
 thousands of the Bructeri were sacrificed for the amusement: 
 of the people. The ten apertures in the walls, which led to 
 the vaulted dens (cavew) where the wild beasts were kept, are 
 
| Cathedral. TREVES. 31. Route. 119 
 
 | still to be seen. The *Villa Recking, above the Amphitheatre, 
 | affords the best view of the town, as well as of the amphi- 
 | theatre itself. Pleasant walk to the village of Clewig (11/, M.). 
 
 The *Basilika (Pl. 9) is a building said to date from a 
 period prior to the time of Constantine, the purposes of which 
 antiquarians have been unable to determine with precision; 
 | some suppose it to have been a theatre, others an imperial 
 |residence. In the early part of the middle ages it was the 
 seat of the Governors of the town, but at the commencement 
 }of the 12th cent. was, with the supreme jurisdiction of the 
 |town, transferred to the bishops, and constituted a part of the 
 | episcopal palace, afterwards erected by them. When the town 
 | became Prussian, it was converted into a barrack, but in 1846 
 was restored to its ancient condition by the late king Fred. 
 William IV. In 1856 it was fitted up and consecrated as a 
 Protestant church. The entire length is 220 ft., breadth 98 ft., 
 jjand height of the hall 97 ft.; the N. side is built in a semi- 
 circular form, and the interior is lighted by a double row of 
 windows. 
 
 In the time of the Romans the *Bridge over the Moselle 
 Was situated in the middle of the town. It was partially 
 destroyed by the French in 1689, and in 1729 the remnants 
 (were employed in the construction of the present bridge, which 
 crosses the river at the S.W. extremity of the town. 
 
 In the Diedrichstrasse, at the fourth house from the market- 
 place on the 1., are the old walls of a building, now employed 
 as a coach-house, believed to have been a Roman tower of 
 defence (propugnaculum) (Pl. 29), but in reality dating from the 
 6th or 7th cent. 
 
 Among the older ecclesiastical buildings only two are worthy 
 of note, the Cathedral, and the adjacent Liebfrauenkirche, 
 both situated near the Basilika. The *Cathedral (PI. 10) was 
 jonce, according to an ancient tradition, a palace of the Roman 
 emperors, and the birthplace of St. Helena, the mother of 
 Constantine the Great. It is difficult to convey an idea of its 
 architectural merit, as no less than six different styles have been 
 sombined in its construction: Corinthian columns of the time 
 of Constantine contrast with Romanesque and Gothic arches; 
 the grotesque styles of the 17th and 18th centuries, and the 
 msuitable Ionic pillars erected in 1849 to support the organ, 
 Orm, with the recent external and internal decorations, an 
 mcongruous though not unimposing whole. Fragments of the 
 dillars of Odenwald granite, which once decorated the portion 
 %f the structure where the grand choir now begins, lie in front 
 7 the W. Portal. The entire length of the edifice, exclusive 
 of the treasury, is 314 ft., breadth 135 ft., and height 90 ft. 
 
120 Route 31. TREVES. Liebfrauenkirche. | 
 
 It contains three aisles and two choirs. The different periods | 
 of the architecture, beginning with the Roman period, arc) 
 well exhibited in the interior of the church. In its vaults! 
 repose the remains of 26 archbishops and Electors. The | 
 finest of the monuments is that of Johann III. (von Metzen-| 
 hausen, d. 1540), on the wall of the N. aisle. On the tombstone 
 of the Elector Richard III. (von Greifenclau, d. 1531), the) 
 successful opponent of Protestantism, are small medallions | 
 with likenesses of the Elector on the 1., and his most violent| 
 antagonist, Franz von Sickingen (p. 103), on the r, side.| 
 This church is the depositary of some highly prized relics.| 
 Foremost may be named the ‘‘Holy Coat” without seam, the| 
 exhibition of which at rare intervals attracts enormous crowds) 
 of pilgrims. A nail from the Cross and a portion of the| 
 Crown of Thorns are also objects of superstitious veneration. | 
 By the steps leading to the High altar are statues of Constantine! 
 and St. Helena, and on the pulpit, reliefs in stone of 1072, 
 representing the 8 Beatifications and the Last Judgment. 
 
 Adjacent to the cathedral, and connected with it by beautiful! 
 cloisters restored in 1847, is the *Liebfrauenkirche (PI. 15), 
 a church of inconsiderable dimensions, but deservedly admired| 
 as one of the most exquisite specimens of Gothic architecture| 
 in Germany. It was completed in 1243, five years before the 
 foundation-stone of the cathedral at Cologne was laid. The 
 form of the structure is circular, intersected by a lofty vaulted) 
 cross, and supported by 12. slender pillars, on which the) 
 12 apostles are represented, painted probably in the 15th cent. 1 
 they may all be seen simultaneously from a slab of slate in) 
 the pavement, about 8 yds. from the entrance, which the sacristan) 
 points out. The church contains numerous monuments oj| 
 ecclesiastical dignitaries, and the mummy of Bishop Theodulf] 
 who died in the 6th cent. The *Portal is richly decorated) 
 with sculptures, symbolical of the Old and New Testament. | 
 
 The Town Library, in the buildings of the Grammai| 
 School (Pl. 26), contains a considerable collection of rare anc) 
 valuable works, amongst them the bible of Faust and Guten 
 berg of 1450, and the Catholicon of 1460; of the MSS. the 
 most interesting is the Codex aureus, which contains the fou) 
 Gospels, presented by Ada (d. 809), the sister of Charlemagne| 
 to the Abbey of St. Maximin, within the precincts of whicl! 
 she was afterwards interred. It is illuminated with strictly 
 allegorical paintings; the binding is superbly ornamented witl 
 precious stones and a cameo of uncommon size, representing) 
 the Familia Augusta. 
 
 The Museum (PI. 20) in the same building may be visite 
 on account of the valuable collection it contains of fossils an¢ 
 
IGEL. al, Route, 121 
 
 yoleanic productions from the Eifel, and a great number of 
 coins and antiquities of the Roman period and the middle ages. 
 
 By far the most interesting Roman mo- XN 
 nument on this side of the Alps must now asl 
 be mentioned — the celebrated *Igeler BE 
 
 Saule, or Igel Monument, popularly termed 
 “Heidenthurm” (heathens’ tower), situated 
 in the middle of the village of that name, 
 about 20 yds. to the r. of the Treves and 
 Luxembourg road. It is a square sandstone 
 column, 71 ft. in height, and 16 ft. broad at 
 the base, probably erected in the 2nd cent. ; 
 it bears a number of reliefs, carvings and 
 inscriptions on the different panels. An- 
 tiquarians differ in their conjectures con- as > 
 cerning the origin and purpose of this fine SS SS 
 relic, and its inscriptions have been variously interpreted. It 
 was, however, in all probability a monument erected by the 
 rich mercantile family of Secundini, who lived in this vicinity, 
 to the memory of one their sons, who, as some of the allegorical 
 reliefs seem to intimate, perished by drowning, and, as another 
 relief exhibits a man and woman in the act of joining their 
 hands, it may also have been intended to commemorate a 
 happier and more auspicious event. 
 
 Another object of almost equal interest is the *Mosaic 
 
 fioor of a Roman villa, discovered in 1852 at Nennig, a village 
 
 on the r. bank of the Moselle, see p. 118. 
 
 32. The Moselle from Treves to Coblenz. 
 
 Steamboats four times a week, in summer daily, down the river in 
 10—12 hrs., up in 1'/,day. When the river is very low they do not ply. 
 Fares: Cabin 4 Thir., steerage 2?/, Thlr. These boats are smaller but not 
 inferior in comfort and accommodation to those on the Rhine, 
 
 From Treves to Coblenz by water is about 150 M., by land 
 half that distance. To the traveller in search of the picturesque, 
 the course of the river presents the greatest attractions. The 
 scenery, though not on so extensive a scale, is hardly inferior 
 to that of the Rhine; indeed there are those who yield the 
 preference to the softer and more varied charms of the lesser 
 stream. ‘The fall from Treves to Coblenz is 204 ft. 
 
 The villages on the banks, other objects of interest, and 
 the best points for inland excursions are here enumerated : 
 
 1. Pfalzel (Palatiolum), where Adela, daughter of King 
 Dagobert, founded a convent in 655. 
 
 r. Ruwer on the river of the same name, the Erubrus of 
 the Roman poet Ausonius (d. 392). 
 
122 Route 32. NEUMAGEN. From Treves | 
 
 1], Ehrang, the Quint (ad quintum, i. e. 5 M. from Treves) 
 with extensive iron-foundry, and Jssel. 
 
 1. Schweich (* Dany), with ferry to the Treves and Coblenz 
 road. 
 
 r. Kirsch; beyond is Longwich. 
 
 1. Riol (Rigodulum), where the Roman general Cerialis | 
 conquered the rebellious Treviri, and took their leader Va- | 
 lentinus prisoner (Zucit. hist. IV. 70). 
 
 l. Trittenheim, birthplace of Johann Trithemius, an eminent | 
 historian, and abbot of Sponheim. 
 
 r. Neumagen (Claeren, Hain), the Noviomagum of the | 
 Romans, where Constantine had a castle (the “inelita castra 
 Jonstantini”” of Ausonius), few traces of which now remain. 
 The church is believed to have been partly constructed (1190) | 
 with the stones of the castle. | 
 
 ]. Pisport (Pisonis Portus) is celebrated for its wine. 
 
 Minheim nearly opposite to 
 the Ohligsberg, Dusemond. 
 The Braunebery, another celebrated wine district. 
 
 . Mithlheim (*arsch), a village of some importance. 
 
 l. Lieser (Heyder), with several country houses in the 
 vicinity, at the mouth of the brook of the same name. 
 
 ]. Cues was the birthplace of the learned Cardinal Nicolaus 
 Cusanus (d. 1464), where he founded a hospital to which he | 
 bequeathed his library, containing some valuable MSS., .a | 
 eonsiderable number of Codices and some rare old impressions. | 
 
 r. Berncastel (*Drei Konige), capital town of this district, | 
 partly burned down in 1857; ruined Castle of Landshut. | 
 Diligence daily to Treves in 6, to Kreuznach in 9 hrs. | 
 
 From Berncastel a footpath, commanding a fine view, crosses the hill to | 
 Trarbach, which may be reached in 1'/,hr. At the highest point, 1100 ft. | 
 above the river (40 min. walk), stands a direction post. To the r. of the | 
 path may still be seen traces of extensive intrenchments, made partly by the 
 French. The descent to Trarbach is stony and somewhat steep. Distance 
 by water 15 M.; steamboat down in 1!/, hr., up in 3 hrs, 
 
 r. Graach, and beyond it Zeltingen (de Wilde), both 
 celebrated for their wine. 
 
 ]. Uerzig (*Post, Berres) at the beginning of the road | 
 leading to Wittlich and the Hifel (p. 126). Below the village | 
 is a tower built into the rock, formerly a castle of the family || 
 von Urlei, afterwards a hermitage. 
 
 1. Croff (Comes); opposite to it, 
 
 r. Wolf, with ruins of an old monastery on the height. | 
 
 r. Trarbach (Grafinburg), completely burned down in 1857, | 
 is the busiest and wealthiest town on the whole river; it is | 
 commanded by the ruin of the Grdfinburg, erected in the middle | 
 of the 14th cent. by the Countess Laurette von Starkenburg 
 
to Coblenz. TRABEN. 32, Route. 123 
 
 with the ransom she exacted from Balduin, archbishop of 
 Treves, for his release from the Castle of Starkenburg, where 
 she had caused him to be confined as a punishment for an 
 attempted infringement of her rights. The castle was dis- 
 mantled by the French in 1734. 
 
 Opposite to Trarbach, at the foot of vine-clad slopes, 
 lies 
 
 l. Traben (*Claus), on the wide table-land above which 
 may be seen the traces of the extensive fortification of Mont- 
 royal, constructed by Louis XIV. in 1686, and levelled in 1697 
 in accordance with stipulations made in the Treaty of Ryswyck. 
 Fine view. 
 
 r. Enkirch (*Immich), from which a footpath leads over 
 the hill to Zell in 11/, hr.; distance by water 9 M. 
 
 1. Reil (Barzen). 
 
 ry. Piinderich (Schneiders). On the J. bank, opposite to the 
 landing place, a steep path ascends to the r. through vineyards 
 to *Marienburg, a ruined castle or monastery, which may 
 be reached in ¥/, hr. The view is one of the most beautiful 
 on the Moselle; :at the top refreshments may be procured. 
 The descent on the other side of the hill to Alf may easily 
 be accomplished in less than }/, hr., while the whole distance 
 by the river is about 12 M., which the steamboat performs in 
 1 hr. with, and 2 hrs. against the stream. A tolerable walker, 
 
 ‘disembarking at Pinderich, may without difficulty cross the 
 
 hill and regain the boat at Alf. 
 
 r. Briedel (* Theisen). 
 
 r. Zell (Melchiors; Fier), principal town of the district, 
 surrounded by remnants of an old wall and tower. 
 
 r. Merl, view of the Marienburg. 
 
 l. Alf (* Theisen; Bad Bertrich) beautifully situated at the 
 mouth of the lovely valley of the Alf. The walk from Alf 
 to Pinderich is particularly recommended to those ascending 
 
 the river. 
 
 A day may be advantageously devoted to the Baths of Bertrich, and its 
 yolcanie environs. he road from Alf to Bertrich (5 M.; carriage there and 
 back 1'/,—2 Thir.) leads through the romantic Valley of the Alf, enclosed 
 by precipitous rocks, 700 ft, in height, passing the ruins of the Burg Arras, 
 and some extensive iron-works. 
 
 Bertrich (*Werling; *Klering; Adler; *Post), a watering-place much 
 frequented by the inhabitants of the banks of the Moselle, is visited annually 
 by upwards of 1000 patients. The warm springs (90° Fahr.) contain a con- 
 siderable quantity of Glauber’s salt, and are especially efficacious in cases 
 of gout, rheumatism, and nervous maladies. Bertrich is a place of rising 
 importance. It is delightfully situated in a secluded valley, enclosed by 
 wooded hills, and offers many attractions to the valetudinarian who would 
 fain be free from the allurements of the gaming table and the other excite- 
 ments which must too often retard the cure at the more fashionable watering- 
 places, On an eminence called the Rémerkessel, where the Roman relics now 
 to be seen in the garden of the bath-establishment were found, stands a small 
 Protestant chapel. 
 
124 Route 32. ELLER. From Treves 
 
 About 4, M, to the W. of Bertrich the road twice crosses the Uesbach. 
 
 At the second bridge, in the hill to the 1., is the so-called *Ké&skeller | 
 
 (cheese-cellar), a grotto composed of basaltic columns, each of which is 
 formed of 8 or 9 spheroids, exactly resembling cheeses. Near it isa Waterfall, 
 50 ft. in height. A basaltic stream of lava is visible in several places in the 
 bed of the Uesbach. 
 
 The new road to Lutzerath leads at a considerable elevation on the |. 
 bank of Uesbach as far as a crescent ('/, M.), whence it ascends to the r. in 
 
 a zigzag direction to the village of Kenfuss (1 M.). A footpath to the r., to | 
 the rear of the gardens of the village, leads in 6 min. to the *Falkenlei 
 
 (1276 ft.), a semi-conical hill, the 8S. side of which is a precipice 160 ft. in 
 height, exhibiting the geological constitution of the interior. At the bottom 
 lie solid masses of lava; and at the top scoriae and slag, in which numerous 
 caves and clefts have’ been formed. The summit affords an extensive view 
 
 of the numerous volcanic peaks of the Eifel, the highest of which are the | 
 
 Hohe Acht (2340 ft.), the Nu&rburg (2118 ft.), with a tower on its summit, 
 and the Hoke Kelberg (2070 ft.), to the N. On the W. the prospect is circum- 
 scribed by the long isolated ridge of the Mosenberg (p. 132). Lutzerath 
 (1259 ft.), a post station on the Coblenz and Treves road, is 4'4, M. distant 
 
 from the Falkenlei. Diligence twice a day between Bertrich and Lutzerath. | 
 
 On the Moselle, opp. to Alf, lies 
 
 r. Bullay, whence a precipitous path leads to the (50 min.): 
 *Konig, commanding an extensive prospect. Descent in 30 min. 
 
 to Merl (p. 123). 
 1. Aldegund (Andries) with ancient church. 
 
 r. Neef, surrounded by fruit trees. A footpath over the | 
 
 hill, on the summit of which the churchyard of Neef and the 
 Chapel of St. Peter are situated, leads in */, hr. to Hiller, cutting 
 off the long circuit which the Moselle here describes. At the 
 extremity of the bend lies 
 
 ]. Bremm (* Amelinger). 
 
 r. Stuben, a monastery erected in the 12th cent. and se- | 
 
 cularized in 1788; finally abandoned to decay in 1793. 
 1. Eller (Gietzen; Maintzer) with old castellated houses ané 
 farm-houses belonging to the feudal ages; path over the hill 
 
 to Cochem in 2 hrs. The banks of the river are however | 
 
 particularly beautiful at this point, and the traveller is recom- | 
 
 mended not to leave the boat. 
 
 1. Ediger (Maass), a small town, surrounded with old | 
 
 fortifications; on the height the ruins of the AKreuzkapelle. 
 
 ]. Senhals, where Roman coins and relics have been | 
 
 repeatedly discovered. 
 
 r. Beilstein; the castle on the heights was once the 
 residence of the counts, now princes, of Metternich-Winne- 
 burg. 
 
 r. Bruttig, birthplace of the celebrated grammarian Petrus | 
 
 Mosellanus, professor at Leipsic, who died in 1524. 
 
 1. Ober- and Nieder-Ernst. Between them a handsome new 
 church and school-house. 
 
 r. Valwig; the rocks are here very picturesque and resemble 
 the Lurlei on the Rhine. 
 
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 a 
 
 to Coblenz. COCHEM. 32. Route. 125 
 
 1. Cochem (Union; *Kehrer), principal town of the district, 
 with ruins of a castle which frequently served as a residence 
 of the Archbishops of Treves in the 14th and 16th centuries. 
 Picturesquely situated on an eminence are the buildings which 
 formerly belonged to a Capuchin monastery. Beyond it, on 
 the summit of a mountain, rise the ruins of the castle of 
 Winneburg, the most ancient seat of the Metternich family. 
 Cochem is one of the most beautifully situated places on the 
 Moselle. 
 
 1. Clotten (Thomas) with an old castle; depot for the slate 
 of Millenbach, a village 9 M. to the N.W., with numerous 
 and remarkable subterranean quarries. 
 
 Treis (Castor; Raueiser) with a modern church. Opposite 
 to it lies 
 
 1. Carden (Brauer), where, in the 12th cent., a church 
 was founded by St. Castor, which in the 12th cent. was enlarged 
 and converted into a handsome three-towered Stiftskirche in 
 
 ‘honour of the saint. 
 
 1. Miden. Footpath to Schloss Eltz in */, hr. 
 
 Moselkern (Deiss) at the mouth of the Lite. 
 
 In the narrow and winding valley of the Eltz, about 4 M. to the N.W. of 
 Moselkern, stands *Schloss Eltz, an ancient residence of the noble family of 
 Eltz. The castle is most picturesquely situated, and presents one of the best 
 preserved specimens of a feudal residence of the middle ages in Germany, 
 which the traveller is strongly recommended to visit. Many of the rooms 
 are furnished in the ponderous style of bygone ages, and the walls hung, if 
 (not adorned, with a collection of family portraits, ancient armour, &e. In 
 the Rittersaal (knights’ hall) a book is kept in which visitors may record their 
 
 hames, and, if so disposed, inspect the autograph of the Prince of Wales, 
 
 ‘ who during: his sojourn in Germany visited this delightful spot, Opposite 
 to Schloss Eltz are the ruins of Trutz-Eltz, erected by Archbishop Balduin 
 to command the castle, with the counts of which he carried on a protracted 
 feud. About 3 M. farther up the valley lie the ruins of the fine old castle 
 of Pyrmont. The road from Moselkern to Schloss Eltz through the valley 
 is very rough, and only adapted to the hardy pedestrian, The stream must 
 be crossed 13 times, a steppiug-stone here and there affording but an in- 
 different footing, but if a prospect of wet feet does not deter the pedestrian, 
 the beauty of the walk will amply repay him. Another footpath runs along 
 the brow of the hill on the r. bank of the Eltz, but is much overgrown with 
 brushwood and to be traced only with difficulty. By carriage the excursion 
 can only be made from Miinstermaifeld (Maifelder Hof), a venerable town 
 of some importance, 3 M. to the N.E. of Schloss Eltz. The church was 
 founded as early as 642; the front with the towers appears as if it appertained 
 to some old fortress rather than to a sacred edifice. — Diligence daily to 
 Coblenz in 3 hrs. 
 
 Below Moselkern a tall round tower rises on the hill to 
 the 1., a remnant of Burg Bischofstein, erected in 1270. 
 
 1. Hatzenport (Hattonis porta) (*Moritz). Opposite to 
 it lies 
 
 r. Brodenbach (Joh. Probst), from which a road ascends 
 through a mountain ravine to the ruins of *Ehrenburg 
 (2M.), situated on an isolated peak, the finest ruin on the 
 ‘Moselle. Road to Boppard on the Rhine, see p. 94. 
 
126 Route 32. COBERN. 
 
 1. The Tempelhof or Sternberg, a ruined Gothic castle, | 
 situated in the midst of vineyards. 
 
 y. Alken, an ancient borough connected by walls and towers 
 with the old castle of Thurant, on the height above, built by the | 
 Count Palatine Heinrich in 1197. It was besieged in 1246—48 | 
 by the Archbishops of Treves and Cologne, during which 
 time upwards of 600,000 gallons of wine are said to have] 
 been consumed by the besiegers. | 
 
 r. Oberfell; Kuhr (* Gunther). 
 
 1. Lehmen (* Zirwas). 
 
 ry. Niederfell (*Fasbender). | 
 
 1. Gondorf (Haupt) with a country-seat erected by the} 
 Elector Johann von der Leyen in 1660. 
 
 1. Cobern (Mischer). Above it stands the Niederburg, once | 
 the seat of the knights of Cobern. Higher is situated the! 
 Ober- or Altenburg, in the interior of which is the * Chapel | 
 of St. Matthias, celebrated for the beauty of its architecture. | 
 It is built in the form of a hexagon, and, according to| 
 tradition, owes its origin to a crusader in the early part of) 
 the 13th cent. | 
 
 ry. Dieblich (*Nortershauser) possesses a handsome new | 
 church. 
 1. Winningen (Krone), a small market-town, where the | 
 best wine of the Lower Moselle is produced, below it, r. Lay, | 
 and 1. Giils with a handsome church, situated in the midst of} 
 an vast orchard. 
 
 r. Moselweis, completely surrounded by fruit-trees. 
 
 r. Coblenz (R. 20). Steamboat-passengers disembark | 
 above the railway bridge. | 
 
 33. The Volcanic Hifel. 
 
 An excursion into the Vorder- Eifel, the most remarkable part of this 
 mountainous district, may be advantageously combined with the tour of the; 
 Moselle as follows. 1st day: from Coblenz by steamboat to Alf (p. 123) in| 
 7—8 hrs.; ascend the Marienburg (1‘/ hr.); on foot in 2 hrs. to Bertrich 
 (or in an open carriage), inspect the Falkeniei and Kaskeller (1'/, hr.), pass; 
 the night at Bertrich. 2nd day: on foot through Hontheim, Strotzbusch, 
 Trautzberg and Strohn to Gillenfeld (12 M.), to the Pulvermaar and back 
 (2 M.), to dinner at Gillenfeld; in the afternoon to Schalkenmehren, Wein-' 
 felder Maar, Mduseberg and Daun (10 M.). 3d day: by carriage to Gerol-) 
 stein and back to Daun in 8 hrs.; afternoon on foot to Manderscheid (9 M.).| 
 4th day: environs of Manderscheid, and on foot to Wittlich, or, if the) 
 traveller’s time be limited, to Uerzig, 6 M. farther, where on the following) 
 morning he may take the boat (in summer daily) to Coblenz. A 6th day) 
 would be well spent in visiting Treves (by diligence from Wittlich, twice| 
 daily in 4 hrs.). 
 
 The Moselle between Coblenz and Alf has been already) 
 described in the preceding route. From the Grotto of Cheeses’ 
 
 a road leads in a S. W. direction to Hontheim (21, M.), 
 
GILLENFELD. 33. Route. 127 
 
 thence to’ Strotzbiisch (41% M.), and through Trautzberg to 
 Strohn (1'4 M.), a village in the valley of the Alf. The 
 Wartesberg (1498 ft.), one of the largest voleanic mountains 
 in the Eifel, extends along the E. side of the valley, com- 
 mencing at Strohn and terminating at Sprink (1 M. farther 
 S.). The crater, which it undoubtedly possesses, is difficult 
 
 _to recognize on account of the extensive masses of slag by 
 
 which it is concealed. 
 
 Gillenfeld (1263 ft.) (* Klusen-Otto; !Caspar’) is situated 
 11, M. farther up the valley. On the heights, 1 M. to the 
 E. of Gillenfeld, lies the *Pulvermaar (1249 ft.), an extinct 
 crater of a nearly circular form, now filled with water 330 ft. 
 in depth. It is enclosed on three sides by wooded hills, and 
 is the most beautiful, and, with the exception of the Laacher 
 See (p. 72), the largest of these crater-lakes of the Hifel; it 
 Occupies an area of about 90 acres. The banks consist of 
 volcanic sand, tufa and scoriae. On the S. side of the lake 
 rises the volcanic Rémersberg (1468 ft.). [Munderscheid lies 
 7, M. to the S.W. of Gillenfeld; the road leads by Eckfeld 
 and Buchholz; */, M. beyond Buchholz the pedestrian, having 
 skirted the wood for a short distance, must enter it and proceed 
 to the Belvedere, p. 131.) 
 
 The road to Saxler and Schalkenmehren leads through 
 
 ‘several peculiar volcanic valleys. The village of Schalken- 
 mehren, 3°%/, M. to the N. of Gillenfeld, and the same distance 
 from Daun, is situated on the banks of the Schalkenmehrer 
 ‘Maar (or tarn) (1801 ft.), covering an area of 50 acres; on the 
 H. side is a peat-bog. The A/f flows out of the tarn on the 
 S. side. At the inn a good dish of pike may generally be 
 procured, but not desirable accommodation for the night. 
 : The road to Daun leads along the W. bank of the lake, 
 and ascends the natural barrier which separates it from the 
 \Weinfelder Maar (1475 ft.) The latter is nearly square (area 
 ‘45 acres), and has no visible outlet. On its N. bank rises 
 the Weinfelder Kirche, a cemetery-chapel for the village of 
 Schalkenmehren. 
 
 The pedestrian should now leave the direct road to Daun, 
 and ascend to the 1. on the N. W. bank of the tarn. There 
 is no regular path, but he must proceed in a W. direction 
 along the hill about half-way up; in about 1/, hr. from the 
 Weinfelder Kirche he will reach the Gemiindener Maar (1246 fed) 
 the smallest of these tarns, situated 150 ft. above the bed of 
 he Lieser. The summit of *Mauseberge (1735 ft.), the N. 
 side of which rises somewhat abruptly from the Gemindener 
 Maar, commands a remarkably fine view of a great portion 
 # the Hifel. 
 
128 Route 33. GEMUNDEN. 
 
 The three above-mentioned tarns (“Dauner Maare”) lie 
 in an extensive tract of volcanic formations, consisting chiefly | 
 of slag-sand, scorize and occasionally of volcanic tufa. The | 
 greatest breadth of this tract is from E. to W., from the | 
 village of Mehren to the slopes of the valley of the Lieser; | 
 the only spot in it where the grauwacke is visible is low | 
 down on the margin of the Weinfelder Maar. 
 
 From the Mauseberg the traveller must descend the heights | 
 
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 which bound the Gemiindener Maar on the E., and cross the| 
 
 \ 
 
 mountain-ridge, on the N. side of which he will reach the} 
 footpath which leads from the Weinfelder Kirche (skirting a} 
 portion of the tarn) to Daun; then descend to the high road} 
 (from the Mauseberg to the road 1 M.) near the village of | 
 Gemiinden, from which the road leads through the valley} 
 of the Lieser to Daun, 114 M. farther. | 
 
 The little town of Daun (1254 ft.) (*Grethen, R. and B.| 
 15 Sgr.; carriage to Gerolstein, Manderscheid, or Lutzerath | 
 24, Thir.; diligence every morning to Lutzerath to meet the | 
 Coblenz and Treves coach; night-diligence to Wittlich) is the} 
 principal place in this district, picturesquely situated on the} 
 brow of a mountain, and commanded by a modern building 
 founded on the ruins of the castle of the counts of Danud 
 celebrated in the annals of Austrian warfare. Their arms| 
 are still to be seen over the entrance of the building whichi 
 is now the residence of the royal head-forester. j 
 
 To the N. about 11/, M. from the town, rises precipitously 
 the long, ‘scorified ridge of a crater, called the Dauner-Lei 
 (Lei = cliff), from which a lava-stream of considerable size 
 descends westward towards the Lieserthal. About 41, M. tol 
 the W. of Daun rises the Nerother Kopf (2000 ft.), another 
 volcanic cone, surmounted by a ruined castle. | 
 
 The vicinity of Daun, especially in a N. W. direction} 
 possesses peculiar interest for the geologist. Here he finds| 
 more than in any other part of the Hifel, evidences of volcani¢ 
 agency in many places covered with minerals, which, in al! 
 probability partly issued from the beautifully and distinctly 
 formed craters. The district in which these formations occu) 
 in such abundance covers an area of about 50 sq. M.., ex 
 tending N.W. to Hillesheim and Stefflen, from the forme) 
 place down the Kylithal as far as Birresborn, and then E. t 
 Daun, and from Daun N. to Dockweiler and Dreis. Thi 
 cones, which protrude from the surrounding grauwackia 
 and calcareous formations, are partly of a basaltic nature, bul 
 far more frequently consist of slag, with well preserved crater 
 or traces of them. 
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 | most distinctly visible at the Scharteberg (2094 ft.), situated 
 to the S. of Airchweiler. The summit of this mountain consists 
 of blistered-looking masses of slag which surround the extinct 
 crater. About 100 ft. lower the lava-streams commence, 
 extending towards the N., S. and E. The last of these 
 streams, though for the most part covered with scori# and 
 yoleanic sand is not only easily recognized in its distance 
 and extent by the protrusion of isolated rocks, but may be 
 more minutely inspected at the quarries of Steinborn. The 
 lowest part consists of a porous and very slightly cleft 
 basaltic lava, the upper of slag, 3—5 ft. in thickness, above 
 ‘the latter is a layer of scorie and volcanic sand, 20 ft. 
 thick, and, next to the surface of the earth, basaltic lava 
 (comp. p. 73). 
 The most considerable of these craters is the basin in 
 which the village of Hohenfels (11/, M. to the N. of Kirch- 
 -weiler, see below) lies. The heights which surround the 
 village are entirely composed of masses of lava, often descend- 
 ‘ing precipitously towards the interior; the highest part is 
 1825 ft., and the bed of the brook which issues from the 
 erater 1334 ft. above the level of the sea. 
 
 From the Erensberg (2134 ft.) (the highest point of this 
 part of the Eifel, situated to the N. of the road between 
 Steinborn and Kirchweiler), the principal stream of lava, which 
 begins 200 ft. below the summit, extends in a N. direction, 
 past Dockweiler , nearly as far as Dreis. On the E. and S. 
 margins of the Dreiser Wether, a boggy meadow situated in 
 a hollow on the road-side, 74% M. to the N. of Daun, are 
 frequently found masses containing olivine (some of them 
 i’/, ft. in diameter and weighing 30 Ibs.), ejected by volcanic 
 ‘action, and occurring in the deposits of the less compact 
 volcanic products which surround all these basaltic and lave 
 cones. From the summit of the Erensberg a fine view is 
 obtained, and the ascent is recommended. 
 
 Travellers who desire to visit the most remarkable points 
 in the vicinity of Daun in ‘the shortest possible time, should 
 early in the morning, cross the hill from Daun into the valley 
 am which Newnkirchen and Steinborn are situated; to the r. of 
 ‘the latter rises the Felsberg, and to the |. the Rimmerich, two 
 ‘craters with lava streams; a little farther are the slag-moun- 
 tains of Neroth (p. 128). From Steinborn the path which ascends 
 @ side-valley to the 1. must be taken, leading along the 
 Southern slope of the lava-stream above described, and 
 crossing the Scharteberg to the Erensberg; then by Hinter- 
 weler and Hohenstein into the Kyllthal to Pelm and Gerolstein. 
 
 Barprxker’s Rhine. 9 
 
 Y 
 
130 Route 33. GEROLSTEIN. 
 
 The whole walk, for which a guide (16 
 dispensable, occupies 5—-6 hrs. 
 
 Except in a geological point of view the high road from! 
 Daun to Gerolstein (12 M.) presents no objects of interest to| 
 the pedestrian, till the Kyllthal at Pelm is reached, 3M. from| 
 Gerolstein. Where time is limited, a carriage should be 
 taken from Daun to Neunkirchen, Steinborn (with mineral] 
 spring), Kirchweiler, the highest point of the road, and Pelm,) 
 a village on the Kyl/, beautifully situated at the foot of the 
 *Casselburg (1464), the considerable ruins of which look} 
 down into the valley from a wooded basaltic peak, 300 ft 
 above it. It was originally the seat of the knights of Castel, 
 berg, subsequently of the Counts of Manderscheid, and at ¢| 
 later period of the Duke of Aremberg, and is now the pro; 
 perty of the state. In the Férsterhaus, at the entrance to the 
 castle, good and moderate accommodation may be obtained) 
 The summit affords a fine prospect of the Kylithal. 
 
 In the immediate vicinity of the castle, to the N. W., rises 
 a lava cone, the N. base of which consists of grauwacke) 
 and the S. of calcareous stone. Between this cone and th¢ 
 Casselburg are deposits of scoriw# and volcanic sand, and o1| 
 the §. side of the latter the calcareous stone is partly covered 
 with variegated sandstone. 
 
 The high and precipitous calcareous rocks (dolomite) 01 
 the r. bank of the * Kyllthal, extending from Pelm to beyond 
 Gerolstein, give a grand and picturesque appearance to th: 
 valley; indeed, in more respects than one, this is the fines| 
 part of the whole Eifel, and abounds with fossil crabs, coral 
 and shell-fish, belonging to the period when the whole o| 
 this district was covered by the sea. The valley diverging 
 in a S. direction from Pelm to Gees is particularly rich 1) 
 these specimens, which may be purchased from the school 
 master at Pelm, or Frau Scholz at Gerolstein. | 
 
 Gerolstein (1218 ft.) (*Schreiber; carriage to Dau} 
 91). Thir.; Clemen) is a village built on the narrow strip © 
 land between the rocks and the stream, and is commande} 
 by the ruins of a castle of the Counts of Manderscheid. A 
 the summit of the limestone mountain opposite is a small cratey 
 the Papenkaul, from which a narrow stream of lava descend 
 into the Kylithal, and along the r. side of the valley as fal 
 as Saresdorf. 
 
 About 3 M. farther down the valley, some distance befor 
 reaching Birresborn, are situated the Mineral springs of th 
 same name, under a roof supported by pillars, on the r. ban! 
 of the Kyll. It is the strongest and best-known of the mineré 
 waters of the Eifel, and is celebrated for its salubrious qualitie 
 
| Eifel. MANDERSCHEID. 33. Route. 131 
 
 On a hill in the Gerolstein wood on the |. bank of the stream 
 (not to be found without a guide), is a hole, the Brudeldreis, 
 2 ft. broad and 114, ft. deep, from which a stream of carbonic 
 -acid gas issues. In wet weather the hole is filled with water, 
 and the gurgling sound of the gas forcing its way up may 
 sometimes be heard 300—400 yds. off. At the margin the 
 ‘bodies of mice, birds, &e., are frequently found suffocated 
 by the powerful fumes of the gas. 
 
 According to the plan proposed at p 126, the traveller 
 would now return to Daun, and proceed S. to Manderscheid, 
 9 M. distant. That part of the road which leads through the 
 Lieserthal offers many picturesque points of view. It passes 
 the village of Gemiinden (11), M.); the Maar (p. 127), on the 
 ‘height to the 1., is about 5 min. walk from the road. From 
 this point the ascent of the Mduseberg may be made in less 
 ‘than 4% hr. 
 
 Below Weyersbach (11, M.) in the Lieserthal are seen the 
 ‘vast and lofty masses of lava enclosing the village of Ueders- 
 ‘dorf, which lies 277 ft. above the bed of the Lieser. They 
 ‘are believed to have proceeded from two extinct volcanoes, 
 ‘one to the S. of Uedersdorf, the Weberlei (1453 ft.), and the 
 ‘other (1698 ft.) to the N. W. 
 
 Manderscheid (1170 ft.) (* Pantenburg), a village of some 
 ‘importance, lies on the table-land between the Lieser and the 
 Little Kyll. On the S. side, in a singularly picturesque and 
 ‘striking situation, are two * Castles, perched on cleft and 
 jagged slate-rocks which rise precipitously from the Lieser. 
 “They were the seat of the Counts of Manderscheid (whose 
 family became extinct in 1780), and are still well preserved. 
 In the beauty and grandeur of their situation they are surpassed 
 ‘by none of the castles on the Rhine. 
 
 High up in the wood at the back of the castle, a bare 
 ‘Spot is visible called the “ Belvedere,” a favorite resort of the 
 inhabitants of the neighbourhood on account of the view which 
 ‘at commands. The ascent occupies nearly 1 hr.: the bridge 
 ‘Over the Lieser below must be crossed, and the road followed 
 Which gradually ascends through the wood, and at the top 
 ‘crosses the fields in the direction of the church-tower of 
 ‘Buchholz; the wood must now be skirted on the S. then 
 in a W. direction, and finally entered. The view from 
 {the summit is peculiar and grand, but less picturesque 
 ‘than that from the bridge over the Lieser, or from the 
 ‘N. slopes of the valley. From the Belvedere a footpath 
 descends in the direction of the valley, but it is a very 
 dangerous one, and the traveller should return by the same 
 o# 
 
132 Route 33.. ‘THE MOSENBERG. Kifel. | 
 ! 
 
 b 
 
 road to Manderscheid (Diligence from Manderscheid through | 
 Wittlich to Treves; to Bonn through Daun, Kelberg, and | 
 
 } 
 
 Altenahr). 
 
 The following path (3 hrs. walk) between Daun and Manderscheid ; 
 is recommended in preference to the road, as the walk from Manderscheid 
 to the Belvedere (see above) is hereby saved. The pedestrian leaves the high | 
 road at Gemiinden, and ascends to the 1. passing the Gemuudener and Wein- 
 felder Tarns. On the E. side of tle latter he continues to skirt the height 
 (far below lies the Schalkenmehrer Maar, p. 127), through wood and across 
 moor. In the distance is seen the church-spire of Buchholz (see above), but 
 before it is reached two gullies and the villages of Brockscheid and Eckfeld 
 must be passed. On reaching Buchholz the path to the r. by the church 
 must be taken, leading to a sign-post indicating the way to Manderscheid to 
 the 1., and the “ Waldweg” to the r., which leads to the Belvedere. 
 
 The finest and most remarkable point of the volcanic 
 mountains of the Hifel is the Mosenberg, 3 M. to the W. of 
 Manderscheid. The mountain with its three peaks cannot be 
 mistaken. About 3/, M. from Manderscheid, before descending 
 into the valley of the Little Kyll, the traveller must take the 
 road to the l. leading to Bettenfeld, the continuation of which 
 may be distinctly seen on the Mosenberg opposite. 
 
 The *Mosenberg (1626 ft.) is a long lava-mountain) 
 extending from N. to S., and has four craters, the lava-walls| 
 of which rise in the most grotesque shapes to the height “| 
 50 ft. The masses of basalt and slag which form the summit 
 have here protruded through the grauwacke to a height off 
 240 ft. The N. crater was formerly filled with water, but] 
 was drained in 1846 and now yields peat. The S. crater has| 
 an opening from which a huge lava-stream (*/, M. in width )} 
 has issued, and may be traced as far as Horngraben, where} 
 it reaches the bed of the Little Kyll; the lava-cliffs here rise 
 perpendicularly to the height of 100 ft. The view is very) 
 extensive and well repays the fatigue of the ascent. The 
 village of Bettenfeld lies on the table-land 1 M. to the Wi 
 
 } 
 
 of the Mosenberg. 
 
 eae 
 
 About 14, M. to the N. of the Mosenberg lies the Meer) 
 felder Maar, formerly one of the largest of these voleanic¢| 
 lakes, but now almost entirely drained. The scorie and) 
 voleanic sand of the Mosenberg extend as far as the heights 
 round the Meerfelder Maar, but may easily be distinguished) 
 from the volcanic productions of the latter, being mingle¢ 
 only at one spot. Meerfeld, on the W. side of the Maar 
 is °/, M. from Bettenfeld, and 3 M. to the W. of Mander 
 scheid. 
 
 From the Mosenberg a path leads S. into the valley te 
 Neumiihl (3 M.), where the Inttle Kyll falls into the Lieser. 
 The scenery of the valley, at all times pleasing, at some) 
 
 points reaches almost to grandeur. The pedestrian, as before 
 
2UDESHEIM. 34, Route. 133 
 
 stated, may effect a saving of 3 M. by taking this road 
 instead of returning to Manderscheid. 
 
 The road from Manderscheid to Wittlich (134, M.; car- 
 riage 2 Thlr.), descends in numerous windings to Neumihd 
 (3 M.), and ascends the opposite slopes in the same way; it 
 then leads for a short distance through wood and reaches the 
 unfertile moor on the table-land. At the villages of Gross- 
 (41, M.) and Minder-Litgen (2, M.) the land becomes more 
 fertile. 
 
 Beyond Minder-Litgen the road winds down into the 
 valley, 3 M. below, but by following a footpath, 14, M. from 
 the village, half the distance is saved. The *view over the 
 rich and fertile plain which sinks towards the Moselle, and 
 the mountains of the latter, rendered more picturesque by the 
 red sandstone which here takes the place of the grauwacke, 
 is a pleasant conclusion to the tour. 
 
 Wittlich (* Post), district-town on the Lieser, is situated 
 in a fertile country where tobacco is much cultivated. Di- 
 ligence twice a day to Treves in 4 hrs. 
 
 A good road leads from Wittlich E.. through Bombogen, 
 where two basaltic cones rise from the plain, to Uerzig (* Post) 
 on the Moselle, 6 M. distant. 
 
 34. The Rhine from Bingen to Mayence. 
 The Rheingau. 
 
 Railway on the l. bank of the Rhine, see R. 35, to Mayence in */, hr, 
 
 Railway on the r. bank of the Rhine, see R. 23. If time permits, it is 
 preferable to ascend by 
 
 Steamboat in 2'/, hrs. (down in 1%/, hr.) to Mayence; piers at Bingen, 
 ‘Eltville and Biebrich, small-boat stations at Riidesheim, Geisenheim, Oestrich 
 and Walluf. 
 
 Pedestrians will be amply repaid by the walk from Riidesheim to EIt- 
 ville; this tract, the garden of the Rhine, is replete with interest. If a 
 carriage be employed, the driver should be expressly told to include the 
 castle of Johannisberg in the excursion, otherwise the traveller will lose one 
 of the finest points on the Rhine. 
 | Those who are already acquainted with the banks of the river may vary 
 their tour by proceeding from Geisenheim to Schloss Johannisberg (1'/, M.) 3 
 thence, passing Schloss Voliraths, to Hallgarien (3 M.); by the Steinberg 
 and across the Bos to Eberbach (2'/, M.); by the Lunatic Asylum of Fich- 
 berg to Kiderich (3 M.); thence to Eltville (114M.). The path leads chiefly 
 through vineyards, destitute of shade, but the castle of Johannisberg, the view 
 from the Bos, the monastery of Eberbach and the Gothic chapel at Kiderich 
 will amply reward the pedestrian, 
 
 Riidesheim (*armstddter Hof, R. and L. 1 fl, D. 1 ff, 
 B. 24 kr., A. 18 kr.; *Rheinstein, an excellent second-class 
 house; Massmann; * Rheinischer Hof; * Scholl, confectioner and 
 restaurateur, near the station). The celebrated wine of the 
 
134 Route 34. GEISENHEIM. From Bingen 
 
 place is yielded by the vineyards immediately behind the 
 town. At the lower extremity is situated the castle of *Brém- 
 serburg, or Niederburg, the property of Count Ingelheim. It 
 is a massive rectangular stone tower, 105 ft. long, 83 ft. broad, 
 and 60 ft. high, and is said to have been once a Roman fort. 
 The three vaulted stories belong to the 13th cent. Till the 
 beginning of the 14th cent. it was a residence of the Arch- 
 bishops of Mayence; subsequently it became the property of 
 the knights of Riidesheim, and was oceupied by the celebrated 
 Bromver family, whose family residence is in the vicinity of 
 the castle, and still well preserved. One of these knights 
 who had distinguished himself by destroying a dragon in the | 
 Holy Land, and had escaped out of the hands of the 
 Saracens, vowed that, if he ever returned to Ridesheim, he 
 would devote his only daughter Gisela to the Church. The 
 latter had during her father’s absence formed an. attachment 
 to a young knight of a neighbouring castle, and heard with 
 dismay her father’s fatal vow. The old crusader was in- 
 exorable, and Gisela in a fit of despair threw herself from 
 the tower of the castle into the Rhine. According to popular 
 belief her pale form still hovers about the ruined tower, 
 and her lamentations are heard mingling with the moaning | 
 of the wind. | 
 The Oberburg, or Boosenburg, an old tower to the rear | 
 of the Bromserburg, was for 300 years the property of the | 
 Counts Boos; it now belongs to Count Schonborn. 
 On the opp. bank of the Rhine rises the Aochusberg, sur- 
 mounted by the Rochuscapelle, a conspicuous object in the 
 landscape, at the foot of which is situated the Villa Lundy; 
 farther on are the villages of Kempten and (rail. stat.) Gaw/s- 
 hem. 
 The clean little town of Geisenheim (*Stadt Frankfurt; 
 Wyneken) contains a handsome red sandstone church of the 
 15th cent. with a modern portal and openwork Gothic | 
 towers. The country residence of the Zwierlein family con- 
 tains a collection of stained glass which deserves inspection. 
 The garden contains about 600 different species of vines. 
 The wine of this district, especially the Rothenberger, is | 
 highly esteemed. 
 
 On the hill behind Geisenheim, near the village of Eibingen, is seen the | 
 former nunnery of that name, founded in 1148, secularized in 1802, and again 
 appropriated to divine worship in 1835. Farther to the N. E. are the rem- 
 nants of another convent, founded in 1390, About 3/, M. farther N. (2!/, M 
 Lew Ridesheim) is the convent of Marienthal, picturesquely situated in 
 a forest. 
 
 *Schloss Johannisberg, situate on a vine-clad eminence, | 
 340 ft. above the Rhine, is a conspicuous object in the land} 
 
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 Scape, and visible from a great distance. The castle with its 
 two wings was erected in 1716 by the Abbot of Fulda, on 
 ithe site of a Benedictine convent founded by an Archbishop 
 of Mayence in 1106. On the secularization of the Abbey of 
 ‘Fulda in 1802, the castle became the property of tho Prince 
 of Orange, in 1805 it was presented by Napoleon to the 
 French Marshal Kellermann, and in 1814 it was given by the 
 Emperor of Austria to the late Prince Metternich as an 
 imperial fief. The vineyards, which occupy an area of about 
 40 acres, and yield an annual income of 6—7000/., are most 
 sarefully cultivated, and once took the lead among the vine- 
 yards of the Rhine; but of late years there has been a great 
 rivalry between the two estates of Johannisberg and Steinberg, 
 }n some years the latter realizing the higher price. The *view 
 irom the balcony of the castle is very fine (fee 24 kr.; good 
 Johannisberger in the restaurant at 5 fl. per bottle), and com- 
 orises the whole course of the Rhine from Mayence to Bingen. 
 ‘The Chapel, founded in the 12th cent., and restored at a more 
 recent date, contains a monument to the eminent historian 
 ind tutor to the Prince, Nic. Vogt, who died a senator of 
 ‘Frankfurt, but was interred here by his own wish. 
 
 | At the foot of the Johannisberg lies the ‘ A/ause” (hermi- 
 iage), the remnant of an ancient nunnery, founded in the 
 {2th cent. In the vicinity is a hydropathic and pine-cone-bath 
 sstablishment. Winkel is 1, and Geisenheim 11}/, M. distant. 
 
 Mittelheim, with the borough of Winkel ( Rheingauer 
 Hof), forms one long street, long enough, according to Goethe, 
 io exhaust the patience of all who traverse it. At the W. 
 *xtremity is situated a country residence of M. Brentano-Bir- 
 censtock of Frankfurt, mentioned in Goethe’s “Correspondence of 
 1 Child”, and containing various reminiscences of the poet 
 
 At Oestrich (/fflund) the inhabitants of the Rheingau 
 ‘ormerly swore allegiance to the newly elected Archbishops of 
 Mayence, who came here for the purpose, and were obliged 
 irst to confirm the rights and privileges of the land. The 
 rillage with its projecting crane, and the castle of Johannisberg 
 n the background, forms a most picturesque scene. 
 
 On the hill-side behind Oestrich lies the village of Hallgarten in the 
 nidst of vineyards, and near it the well preserved castle of Vollraths, erected 
 ibout the year 1362 by a member of the family von Folraz, in whose posses- 
 ion it continued till a few years age. 
 
 Before reaching the village of Hattenheim (Laroche), 
 ihe road passes Schloss Reichartshausen, situated in a small 
 dark (1 M. from Oestrich), once a depot for the wines of 
 Lberbach, now the seat of Count Schdnborn. 
 
36 Route 54. ELT VILLE. From Bingen 
 
 Between Hattenheim und Erbach lie the three islands of 
 Sandau, Langwertherau, and Rheinau. On the |. side of the 
 road between these two villages is situated the Markbrunzen | 
 (or boundary-well) adjacent to which are the vineyards, now 
 intersected by the railway, which yield the Markobrunner, one 
 of the most highly prized Rhenish wines. 
 
 Erbach (Engel; Walljisch), mentioned as early as 980, 1s 
 concealed from the steamboat passenger by the long island of 
 Rheinau. At the W. extremity of the village is situated the 
 country residence of the Princess Albrecht of Prussia. 
 
 A broad path leads inland from Erbach to the once celebrated and 
 richly endowed Cistercian Abbey of Eberbach, founded by St. Bernhard of 
 Clairvaux in 1131, and situated in one of those lonely valleys which this 
 order always selected for the site of their monasteries. Henee the Latin 
 proverb: 
 
 Bernardus valles, montes Benedictus amabat, 
 Oppida Franciscus, celebres Ignatius urbes. 
 
 The Abbey was secularized in 1803 and soon afterwards conyerted into 
 a House of Correction. The building was erected at various periods from 
 the 12th to the 15th cent. The Romanesque convent-church, consecrated 
 in 1186, and recently restored, contains a number of * Monuments, most of 
 them of Abbots of the 12th—19th cent., and interesting in an artistical as 
 well as historical point of view. The handsome Gothic monument which 
 encloses the gravestones of the Archbishop of Mayence Gerlach (d. 1371) and 
 Adolph IT., Count of Nassan (d. 1474), particularly deserves inspection. 
 The Refectory, belonging to the 13th cent., is now oceupied by wine-presses, 
 and the cellars below are employed by the Duke of Nassau for the celebrated 
 ‘“Cabinet” wines, the most choice production of the vineyards of the Rhein- 
 gau. In the immediate vicinity is the celebrated Steinberg vineyard, care- 
 fully cultivated by the industrious monks of Eberbach ever since the end 
 of the 12th cent, It covers an area of upwards of 60 acres, and now belongs 
 to the Duke. The *Bos (obsolete word = hill), an eminence close to thej 
 monastery, commands a magnificent prospect, embracing the whole of the 
 Steinberg vineyard. To the E. of the Eberbach valley are seen in the 
 distance the handsome buildings of the Asylum of Eichberg. 
 
 At Eltville or Elfeld (Rheingauer Hof; Engel: Rheinbahn 
 Hotel), formerly the capital of the Rheingau, the German king 
 Ginther of Schwarzburg resigned his royal dignity, when| 
 hard pressed and besieged by his opponent Charles 1V. In| 
 the 14th and 15th centuries Eltville was a residence of the} 
 Archbishops of Mayence, to which they often resorted to} 
 escape from civic broils, and contained the archiepiscopal| 
 mint. Here too was erected one of the first printing-presses} 
 in 1465, 50 years after the first invention of the art, andj 
 before the death of Gutenberg. The tall and handsome watch-| 
 tower with the arms of the founder, and the adjoining castle-| 
 wall are the sole remnants of a castle erected by Balduin, 
 Archbishop of Treves, in 1330, who was at that time High- 
 steward of Mayence; the church-spire belongs to the same’ 
 date. Eltville is also a favorite residence of several members 
 of the German nobility, whose country-seats give a handsome 
 
to Mayence. BIEBRICH. 54, Route. 137 
 
 appearance to the place. Diligence to Schlangenbad and 
 Schwalbach see p. 89. 
 
 About 1'/, M. to the N, W. lies the large village of Kiederich (* Fischer: 
 Pape; Krone) formerly a favorite resort of pilgrims, where the church of 
 St. Valentine, and the * St. Michaelscapelle, erected in 1440 in the later 
 Gothic style, restored in 1858, are well worth a visit. Near Kiederich is 
 situated the Grdafenberg, one of the most celebrated vineyards of the Rhein- 
 gau, surmounted by the castle of Scharfenstein, erected by the Archbishops 
 of Mayence at the close of the 12th cent., dismantled by the Swedes in 1632, 
 and finally by the French in 1682, 
 
 Beyond Eltville several country- residences, situated in 
 carefully kept vineyards, are passed; the island opposite is 
 tastefully laid out as a pleasure-ground. ‘The church-spire of 
 Rauenthal is visible on the hills in the background. The 
 *Rauenthaler Hohe (p. 155), one of the finest points of view 
 in the Rheingau, may be reached from Eltville in 1/4, hr. The 
 road from Eltville or Niederwalluf to Schlangenbud and Schwai- 
 bach unites at Neudorf (Krone) with the Biebrich and Schlangen- 
 bad high-road. 
 
 At the village of Niederwalluf (*Schwan; Gartenfeld), 
 mentioned in an old record as early as 770, the rich wine- 
 tract of the Rheingau terminates. ‘The entire district was in 
 ‘ancient times surrounded by a thick and impenetrable barrier, 
 formed by a belt of trees, 50 yds. in width, planted. close 
 together, their branches being so interwoven as to form a 
 gigantic hedge. 
 
 At the ancient village of Schierstein (Drei Avonen), which 
 stands in the midst of one vast orchard, M. Habel, the keeper 
 of the Ducal archives, has a collection of pictures and antiquities 
 which deserves a visit. About 11/, M. inland are situated the 
 ruins of the castle of Mrauenstein and the village (Weisses 
 Ross) of that name. 
 
 Biebrich (*Lheinischer Hof; Bellevue; European Hotel; 
 prices as in Mayence, p. 38; Krone, where good beer may 
 be procured: Lowe. English Church service on Sundays in 
 the Ducal chapel), which, with the adjoining village of Mos- 
 bach, forms one town, and is the summer residence of the 
 Duke of Nassau. At the upper end of the town is situated 
 a large new barrack, and at the lower, the Ducal palace, 
 erected in 1706 in the “renaissance” style. The group of 
 Statnes with which the centre is adorned was much injured 
 in 1793 during the siege of Mayence, by the French batteries 
 on the island of Petersau, whilst the Palace was occupied by 
 Prussian troops. The garden and park, nearly 1 M. in length, 
 are well kept, and abound with beautiful walks. The ex- 
 tensive hot-house, constructed in 1850, containing. arbours, 
 ‘seats, and fountains, forms a delightful winter-garden. The 
 
138 Route 35, MAYENCE. 
 
 small castle in the palace-garden, built in the middle ages on 
 the site of the old imperial palace Biburk, once the residence 
 of Louis the Pious, is fitted up in the Gothic style, and 
 contains monuments of the Counts of Katzenelnbogen, brought 
 from the Abbey of Eberbach (p. 136). Biebrich is connected 
 with the Taunus railway by a horse-railway, with Wiesbaden 
 by the Rheingau line, and also by an omnibus (24 kr. with 
 luggage) which runs to meet the steamboats. 
 
 Soon after leaving Biebrich the steamboat passes between 
 two islands, that of IJngelsheimer Au on the r. and Petersau 
 on the 1.; on the latter, where he had a summer residence, 
 the emperor Louis the Pious, the son and successor of Charle- 
 magne, expired, June 20th, 840, in the 64th year of his age. 
 His body was conveyed to Metz and there interred. 
 
 The steamboat-pier at Mayence is at the lower end of the 
 town, below the bridge of boats, and a considerable distance 
 from the railway station, situated on the Rhine at the upper 
 end. Conveyances etc. see below. 
 
 35. Mayence. 
 
 Hotels. On the Rhine: *Rhenish Hotel, R, 1, L. 18, B. 36, D. 1 fi. 
 30, A. 24 kr.; *H6tel de Hollande, somewhat more moderate; English 
 Hotel; Victoria Hotel. — Hotel de Cologne; *Hétel de Mayence, 
 R. 48 kr., D. 1 fi., A. 18 kr., restaurant on the ground-floor; Stadt 
 Coblenz; Hotel Taunus. — In the town: Karpfen, opp. the post- 
 office; Schiitzenhof, opp. the cathedral; *Landsberg, Lohrgasse. — 
 In Castel, near the station: *HdOtel Barth. R, 1 fl., B. 30, A. 18 kr.; 
 Taunus Hotel, more moderate; both of these hotels are conveniently 
 situated for travellers arriving or departing by the Taunus line. Anker, 
 a good third-class house. 
 
 Cafés. Rheinisches Kaffehaus, opposite to the Rhine bridge; 
 near it, Café Francais. In the Theaterplatz, Café de Paris. 
 
 Restaurants. Volk, in the Emmeransgasse (only in the evening), 
 good wines, game of all kinds according to the season. Rothes Haus, 
 in the Theaterplatz. Café de Paris. Anker (see above), in Castel, 
 Bavarian beer. 
 
 Baths, cold and warm, near the railway station. Swimming-bath 
 outside of the Neuthor. 
 
 Military music on Wednesdays at 12 o’clock in the Schillerplatz, per- 
 formed by the band of the Prussian garrison; on Thursdays in the Palace- 
 square by the Austrian band. Once a week, from 5 to 8, military concert 
 in the new Anlage (p. 145). 
 
 Railway Stations. Trains for Cologne (R. 36), Ludwigshafen (R. 55), 
 Frankfurt (by direct way R. 40) and Darmstadt (R. 41) start from the 
 Mayence station on the Rhine, at the upper end of the town; for Frank- 
 furt and Wiesbaden from Castel (p. 167). — Steam ferry- boat, omnibus 
 and carriages from station to station see below. 
 
 Steamboats (see Introd.). The steamboats for the Lower Rhine have 
 their landing-place below the railway bridge, at Mayence as well as 
 at Castel, where they are in direct correspondence with the Taunus Rail- 
 way. 
 
 Rouiticd in Mayence. One-horse for '/, hr., 1—2 pers. 12 kr., 3—4 
 pers. 18 kr,. by the hour 48 kr. or 1 fl. Two-horse carriage about '/, more. 
 
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 8_Frachthalle 
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 10. Justix Pallast 
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 13. Sf Christoph 
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 15. §¢Jgnatz 
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 19. S$? Stephan 
 St Qaintin 
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 Monmumente 
 battenberg 
 mae 25. Schiller 
 Prahaten ~s i = = F26 RegierangsFall. 
 : Zz Z 22. Stadthaus 
 28. Schloss jetzt Lagerhauas mit: 
 Alterfuimer Museum 
 Bibliothek 
 Gemdlde Sami. 
 Nataratten Cab. 
 Rom.germ Masenm 
 29. Theater mit. der Indastriehalle 
 30. Invalidenhans 
 SIL. Zachthaus 
 
 Milttate-Gebaude 
 2 Artillerte Direct. 
 Artillerie Bauhof. “ 
 4. Casernen D3.63 E3.FI2 C 
 . Festungs Gouvemnem. 
 3. Festungs Command. 
 Forttfisat Banhof 
 Garnisons Spital 
 ‘ Gente Direct 
 Mikitairlasse . 
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 Farphn 
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 Landsberg 
 mm. Castel 
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 2000 Schritte 
 
MAYENCE. 
 
 For waiting, half the above charges. 
 Bridge-toll (16 kr.) charged extra, — In Castel charges somewhat higher. 
 
 Porterage. 
 Trunk under 50 Ibs. 
 
 several together 6 kr. 
 
 From the steamboat or station 
 
 35. Route. 
 
 139 
 
 Trunk 6 kr., smaller packages free. 
 
 to the 
 
 Chaplain resident. 
 
 hotels on the Rhine: 
 6 kr., over 50 Ibs. 9 kr., smaller packages 3 kr., or 
 To Castel, see p. 42. 
 English Church in the Clara Strasse, 
 
 The Town-gates are closed at 10 p.m., and admission is denied to all 
 *xcept travellers arriving by the public conveyances, or persons furnished 
 with a card from the military head-quarters of the town. 
 
 The traveller whose time is limited had better inspect the town as follows; 
 Jathedral and monuments (p. 141), Gutenberg monument (p. 143), Eigelstein 
 s. below), collections in the Palace (p. 144), and spend the evening in the 
 rew Anlage (p. 145), in Wiesbaden (p. 149), or in the Palace-garden at 
 
 3iebrich. 
 
 Mayence, or Mainz, lies below the confluence of the Main 
 ind the Rhine, and is amongst the most interesting of the 
 
 Xhenish towns in an historical point of view. 
 
 Its 
 
 important 
 
 ‘trategic situation has in all ages attracted the attention of 
 
 he different nations to whom the Rhine has belonged. 
 
 As 
 
 arly as B.C. 38, Vipsanius Agrippa caused a camp to be 
 itched on the spot where Mainz now stands, for the security 
 
 £ his line of defence against the Germanic tribes. 
 
 In the 
 
 rear B.C. 14, Augustus sent his son-in-law Drusus to the 
 thine as commander-in-chief, and to him Mayence owes its 
 
 ‘oundation. 
 
 The camp which he 
 
 pitched was 
 
 called the 
 
 Vastellum Magontiacum, and occupied the whole of the table- 
 
 and between Mainz and Zahlbach, 
 
 as 
 
 is 
 
 proved 
 
 by the 
 
 ibundant Roman remains still to be seen in the vicinity of 
 he town. In order the more effectually to secure the passage 
 of the Rhine, a second Castellum was soon afterwards con- 
 itructed on the opposite side of the river by Drusus, from 
 
 which the present Caste/ derives its origin and name. 
 
 Many 
 
 races have been recently discovered of the four roads which 
 ed from the Castellum Magontiacum in different directions, 
 id milestones which belonged to them are exhibited with 
 yther Roman relics in the Palace (p. 144). 
 
 Within the walls of the Citadel is the *Eigelstein, a 
 nonument erected by the 2nd and 14th Legions in honour of 
 
 Jrusus 
 
 Jlaud. 1.). 
 
 (‘Sexercitus 
 
 honorarium 
 
 tumulum 
 
 excitavit”’. 
 
 Sueton. 
 
 The name is believed to have been derived from 
 
 he aguila or aigle, with which the tower was formerly 
 urmounted. The external masonry has long since disappeared, 
 md the height and form of the monument have undergone 
 
 nany changes. 
 
 It is 
 
 now a 
 
 grey 
 
 circular 
 
 mass 
 
 of stone, 
 
 t2 ft. in height; the interior was furnished with a spiral 
 itair-case in 1689; the summit commands a view of the town 
 
 md environs. 
 military head-quarters) in the Schillerstrasse. 
 iecompanied by a soldier who shows the tower (fee 12 kr.). 
 
 Cards 
 
 of admission 
 
 at the Plate- Commando 
 The visitor is 
 
140 Route 30d. MAYENCE. Aqueduct. 
 
 led to the discovery of the hexagonal reservoir which supplied 
 the Roman fortress with water, and was situated near the 
 
 | them 30 ft. in height, still exist, out of the 500 it is 
 | said once to have been supported by, conveyed the water to 
 
 bach, */, M. to the S. W. of Mayence, not far from the 
 
 tombstones have been erected on the spot where they were 
 | discovered. The spring which the aqueduct connected with 
 the Castrum is called the Koénigs-Born, and is situated at 
 Mayence. 
 
 | Mayence, with other places, claims to have been the scene 
 
 to Eusebius, in 311, when he set out with his legions on his 
 expedition against Maxentius. But besides this traditional 
 
 of the Germans. It has been erroneously asserted that Boni- 
 face was of royal descent, but he was the son of a wheel- 
 wright, and so little ashamed of his parentage that he bore 
 wheels in his arms, which out of compliment to him have 
 
 Mayence. ‘I'he founder of the Rhenish Towns’ Confederation 
 (1254) was a citizen of Mayence, and his native town thus 
 became the central point of this powerful and _ influential 
 society. It was at that time celebrated for its commercial 
 prosperity, which gained for it the title of the ‘Golden Mainz.” 
 
 jurisdiction. 
 
 Kalkreuth in the following year. It became French in 1797 
 
 Excavations made in the former half of the Jast century | 
 
 Two centuries later it was deprived of its extensive privileges | 
 by the Archbishop Adolf of Nassau, and from that time if) 
 lost its freedom and remained subject to the Archiepiscopal | 
 
 Gauthor, on the spot now occupied by the “ Entenpfuhl” 
 (duck-pond). An *Aqueduct, of which 62 pillars, some of | 
 
 this basin. Remains of the pillars are to be seen near Zahil- | 
 
 | Stahiberg. In an acacia-plantation on a rising ground to the 1., | 
 | once the burial-ground of the Romans, a number of Roman | 
 
 Finthen (Fontane) on the road to Bingen, 5 M. from | 
 
 of Constantine’s vision of the Cross, as described in his letter | 
 
 distinction Mayence may unquestionably claim to. be the oldest | 
 | Archiepiscopal See in Germany, and the English traveller may | 
 be interested to know that the first Archbishop was St. Boni- | 
 face, a native of England, who was raised to this high dignity | 
 by Pope Zachary in 746. He is generally called the Apostle | 
 
 been invariably assumed by his successors in the See of) 
 
 | 
 | 
 
 On Oct. 22nd,°1792, the French republicans under Custine, | 
 wearing their red Jacobite caps, entered the town almost. 
 without a blow, but it was retaken by the Prussians under; 
 
 by the peace of Campo Formio, and was the capital of the} 
 department of Donnersberg till 1814, when it was assigned 
 
 a 
 F 
 
 ' 
 
Cathedral. 
 
 MAYENCE. 
 
 30. Route. 
 
 141 
 
 to the Grand-duchy of Hessen. Population 42,000 (7000 Prot., 
 
 3000 Jews). 
 
 Mayence is the strongest Fortress of the German Con- 
 
 federation. 
 
 It is surrounded by a threefold line of forti- 
 
 fications: 1st, the chief rampart consisting of 14 bastions with 
 the citadel already mentioned; 2nd, a line of advanced forts, 
 connected by glacis; 3d, by still more advanced intrenchments, 
 erected partly by the Prussian, partly by the Austrian en- 
 gineers, of which the principal are the Weissenauer Lager, 
 
 the Hartenburg, and the Binger Thurm. 
 
 On the N. 
 
 side 
 
 of 
 
 the town stands the vast Military Hospital, facing the Schloss- 
 platz. In time of peace the garrison consists of 3000 Prussian, 
 and a similar number of Austrian troops; in time of war the 
 
 number is trebled. 
 
 The *Dom, or Cathedral, was founded in 978 by Arch- 
 bishop Willigis. Six times it suffered more or less from fire, 
 and on each occasion was restored and enlarged in the style 
 of the age; it therefore affords specimens of the architecture 
 of the 13th, 14th, and 15th centuries, and is in this respect 
 
 well worthy of inspection, 
 
 During the siege of 1793 every 
 
 thing of a combustible nature in it was destroyed by fire. 
 At the commencement of the French period it served as a 
 hay magazine, but was restored to its sacred uses in 1804. 
 On Nov. 9th, 1818, after the retreat of the French at the 
 battle of Leipsic, 6000 men took up their quarters in the 
 
 edifice, and again 
 prey to the flames. 
 
 benches and 
 
 wood-work became a 
 During the siege of 1814 it was ignobly 
 
 employed as a slaughter-house by the garrison, and subsequently 
 
 as a salt and corn magazine. 
 
 Since then it has been kept 
 
 sacred as a place of worship, and is indebted for its restoration 
 
 to the architect Moller 
 
 of Darmstadt. 
 
 The E. 
 
 round towers 
 
 belong to the most ancient part of the structure, and the E. 
 fronton and choir to the beginning of the 12th cent.; the W. 
 choir was erected in 1239, and the cloisters in 1412. 
 octagonal “ Pfarrthurm” is surmounted by a cupola of cast 
 
 iron, designed by Moller. 
 
 The 
 
 The two brazen gates on the N. 
 
 side, at the entrance from the market place, formerly be- 
 
 longed to the Liebfrauenkirche. 
 
 The inscriptions which they 
 
 bear were engraved in 1135, and record the varions privileges 
 granted to the town by the Archbishop Adalbert I. out of 
 of Henry V., 
 ‘and an enumeration of his grievances and the cause of his 
 
 gratitude for his 
 
 ‘Imprisonment. 
 
 liberation 
 
 from the hands 
 
 The vaulted Interior of the church, which rests on 56 pillars, 
 is richer in tombstones and monuments of Electors, Arch- 
 ‘bishops, and other dignitaries, than any other church in Ger- 
 : 
 
142 Route 55, MAYENCE. Cathedral. 
 
 many. The most interesting of these are the following, be-| 
 ginning with the aisle on the r., at the N. entrance. ( The! 
 attendance of the sexton is quite unnecessary). The monument} 
 of the Canon von Breidenbach, 1497; von Gablentz, 1572. — 
 N. aisle. On the Ist pillar, the monument of Albert of 
 Brandenburg, Elector of Mainz, and Archbishop: of Magdeburg 
 (the statue admirably executed, and said to be a faithful 
 likeness), 1545; in a chapel opposite, the monument of the 
 family of Brendel von Homburg, a well-executed Adoration 
 of the Cross in stone, 1563; on the 4th pillar, Adalbert o1 
 Saxony, administrator of the Archbishopric, 1484; on the 6th 
 pillar, opposite to the pulpit, the Elector Dethier of Isenburg, 
 1482: on the altar at the side, St. Boniface (p. 140), a reliet 
 of 1857. — S. aisle. On the 7th pillar, the Elector Damian 
 Hartard v. d. Leien, 1678; on the 4th pillar, the *Elector 
 Berthold von Henneberg, 1504, the finest monument in the 
 cathedral, and said to have been executed at Rome. 
 
 On the 1]. side of the entrance to the cloisters, a stone. 
 tablet is built into the wall, with an inscription to the 
 memory of Fastrada, the third wife of Charlemagne, whe 
 died at Frankfurt in 794, and was interred in the church ol 
 St. Alban’s (destroyed in 1552 by the Markgrave Albrecht 
 of Brandenburg), whence the tablet was removed to its present 
 position. | 
 
 The S. part of the transept contains more modern monu- 
 ments, amongst which the only object deserving of particulay 
 inspection is the fine head of Saturn which surmounts the 
 monument of the Canon von Breidenbach-Birresheim. Th¢« 
 well-executed monument of the Archbishop Conrad II. vor! 
 Weinsberg belongs to the year 1396. 
 
 The Memorie, or Chapter-house, erected in 1248, adjoins 
 the cathedral, and now forms an entrance-hall to the Clois: 
 ters, constructed in 1412. The latter are the best preservec 
 of all structures of this description in the Rhineland; they 
 served as a place of exercise for the clergy, and afforded ar 
 opportunity for the observance of the monastic rule: “pos 
 
 1 
 ; 
 
 cenam stabis, seu passus mille meabis.” 
 
 The Memorie and the recently restored Clovsters contair| 
 several monuments worthy of note. On the S. wall is * Schwan! 
 thaler’s monument to Frauenlob, a female figure decorating ¢| 
 coffin with a wreath, erected by the ladies of Mayence ir 
 1842, in memory of the Minnesanger Count Heinrich vor 
 Meissen (d. 1318), surnamed Frawenlob (women’s praise), “thé 
 pious minstrel of the Holy Virgin, and of female virtue ant 
 piety.” Beyond it, on the E. wall, is a remarkable * Sculpture 
 brought in 1839 from the Capuchins’ garden, representing the 
 
 ak 
 
Kastrich, MAYENCE. 30. Route. 143 
 
 reconciliation of the clergy with the townspeople after. the 
 . Insurrection of 1160, in which the Archbishop Arnold lost 
 his life. Near it is an older tombstone of Frauenlob, erected 
 in 1783, a copy of the original of 1318, which had been 
 accidentally destroyed by some workmen. 
 
 The cathedral is open in the morning till 1114 o’clock, 
 and in the afternoon from 2 to 6. The view from the sum- 
 {mit of the tower (283 ft.) is similar to that from the Kigel- 
 | Stein, but less extensive than the prospect commanded by the 
 Stephansthurm (p. 145). 
 
 Near the cathedral is the Gutenbergsplatz, so called by 
 order of Napoleon in 1804, It is adorned with a *Statue 
 of Gutenberg (d. 1468) (Pl. 24), designed by the Danish 
 sculptor Thorwaldsen and executed at Paris, the expenses 
 being defrayed by subscriptions from all parts of Europe. 
 
 The Theatre (Pl. 29) was erected in 1833 by Moller, and 
 is, excepting the instances at Dresden and Carlsruhe, the 
 only modern edifice of the kind, the use of which is in- 
 dicated by its external form. The Hall of Industry in the 
 E. wing is a kind of bazaar, principally of wares manufactured 
 in the place. The furniture and leather goods of Mayence 
 have long enjoyed a high reputation. 
 
 The Fruchthalle (Pl. 8), or Fruit-market, lies to the W. 
 
 of the theatre, and is one of the largest buildings of the kind 
 in Germany. The interior can be converted into a concert 
 ‘or ball-room by the addition of a moveable ceiling and floor, 
 and is capable of containing 7—8000 persons. 
 . Tf the traveller now return to the theatre and follow the 
 broad Ludwigsstrasse in a W. direction, he will reach the 
 Schillerplatz (formerly Thiermark#), a rectangle planted with 
 Jime-trees, bounded on the S.. side by the Government buildings, 
 and on the W. by the Prussian Barracks and Military Casino, 
 where a bronze Statue of Schiller was erected in 1862. 
 The pillar of the fountain is said to have been brought from 
 the palace of Charlemagne at Ingelheim, and the Schillerplatz 
 itself was in Roman times the Forum gentile, or market-place 
 of the fortress. 
 
 (A new, broad street leads from the Schillerplatz to the 
 ‘Kastrich, a vine-clad eminence formerly occupied by a powder- 
 magazine, accidentally blown up in 1857, where a new quarter 
 with a terrace, commanding an extensive view of the town 
 and its environs, is in course of construction.) 
 
 » Near the N. extremity of the Schillerstrasse are the Govern- 
 ment buildings, passing which and turning to the E., the traveller 
 enters the Grosse Bleiche, the longest (800 yds.) street in 
 Mayence, which bounds the old part of the town and leads 
 
 q 
 : 
 : 
 
144 Route 35. MAYENCE. Elector. Palace. 
 
 to the Rhine. On the N. side of this street are situated the | 
 Residence of the Commandant and the old Library buildings. 
 In the small square to the 1. is the Neubrunnen, a pillar with | 
 symbolical reliefs, erected at the commencement of the last 
 century; the base is adorned with representations of river-gods. | 
 The building with the gilt horse, farther down the street, | 
 formerly the stables of the Electors, is now used as cavalry- | 
 barracks. 
 
 On the r. at the E. extremity of the street, where it enters | 
 the large Palace square, is situated the Church of St. Peter 
 (Pl. 18), erected in 1751, and formerly Court-church of the} 
 Electors. The interior contains little to interest the traveller.) 
 
 The Palace of the Electors (Pl. 8) forms the N.E. point} 
 of the town. It was erected in 1627—1678 and was the re-| 
 sidence of the Electors till 1792; during the French war it} 
 served as a hay-magazine, and afterwards as a depot for the 
 cargoes of vessels. It is now occupied by different collections 
 of objects of interest. That of Roman monuments is the 
 richest in Germany. ‘These, as well as the picture-gallery, 
 are open to the public on Wednesdays from 2 to 5, and on 
 Sundays from 9 to 12 o’clock. At other times cards of ad-| 
 mission (12 kr.) may be procured at the ‘‘Octroi” at the 8. 
 side of the building. 
 
 The *Roman antiquities consist of altars, votive-tablets, sarcophagi, 
 and tombstones of Roman soldiers with sculptures and inscriptions. — The 
 Roman-Germanic Museum contains upwards of 2000 casts of relics of 
 the Roman-Germanic period down to the time of Charlemagne. The Collec- 
 tion of coins contains between two and three thousand Roman specimens, 
 about 1800 of the town of Mayence from Charlemagne to the fall of the 
 Electorate, and 1500 of modern times. — The Library possesses 100,000 
 vols., among which are old impressions by Gutenberg, Faust, and Schéffer, 
 dating from 1459—1462, The Natural hist. collection is also one of 
 considerable value, especially the zoological portion. 
 
 The *Picture-gallery belongs to the town and the Art-union; the best 
 paintings were presented by Napoleon I. The following by well-known masters 
 are among the most interesting: 1st Room: 98. Cattle by Snyders, the figures 
 by Rubens; 97, The Duck-stealer, by Murillo. 2nd Room: 4, Filial affection, by 
 Vitian; 75. The Rape of Europa, by G. Reni. 3d Room: 185. Woman in the 
 ancient German costume, by the younger Holbein; 6. Adam and Eye, by Al: 
 brecht Durer; 108—110. St. Hieronymus, Adoration of the infant Jesus, an¢ 
 the young Tobias, three fine pictures by Gaudenzio Ferrari. 4th Room: 173) 
 Portrait of a Cardinal, by Velasquez. 5th Room: 96. David anointed king 
 by Samuel, by Rubens. 7th Room: 5. Adoration of the shepherds, by Luc 
 Giordano; 121, Coronation of the Virgin, by Agostino Carracci. The 8tl 
 Room contains modern pictures. 9th Room: 27. John in the wilderness, bj 
 Agost. Carracci; 3. Madonna receiving the scapulary, by Annib. Carracci, 
 92. St. Franciscus, by Gwercino. 
 
 Opposite to the Electoral Palace, to the S., is situated the 
 House of the Teutonic Order, now fitted up as a Grand-duca’ 
 Palace (Pl. 5), connected with which is the Arsenal (PI. 41) 
 containing collections of old armour: and weapons, as well ai 
 
thurch of St. Stephen. MAYENCE., 3d. Route. 145 
 
 arge stores of modern engines of warfare, but of little interest 
 9 persons who have visited more important collections. Cards 
 f admission may be procured gratis at the Artillery-office at 
 ne corner of the Grosse Bleiche and the Bahnhofstrasse. 
 
 On an eminence to the N. W. of the Citadel is situated 
 ie Church of St. Stephen (Pl. 19), erected in 1318, and 
 estored in 1857. It contains three aisles of nearly equal 
 eight, a form rarely seen in the churches of the Rhineland. 
 "he octagonal tower (210 ft.), the base of which is 100 ft. 
 bove the Rhine, commands the finest view in the whole town. 
 ‘o procure admission the visitor must ring at the door of the 
 . tower. The interior contains but few objects of interest. 
 ‘he Cloisters are remarkable for their tastefully constructed 
 eilings and windows. 
 
 The *Cemetery, once the burial-place of the Roman legions, 
 nd of the most ancient Christian church (St. Alban’s), is 
 ituated on an eminence in the vicinity of Zahlbach (p. 140), 
 nd deserves a visit on account of the beauty of its situation, 
 s well as of the monuments it contains. 
 
 The Neue Anlage (* Voltz’s Restaurant), or new public 
 counds, are situated on a slight eminence, near the 
 euthor, on the site of the electoral Lwustschloss Favorite, 
 here on July 25th, 1792, the well-known manifesto of the 
 tke of Brunswick addressed to the French nation was 
 tamed by a large assembly of princes. The fine view from 
 ie grounds embraces the town, the river, and the Taunus 
 ountains. 
 
 The Mainspitze (or promontory of the Main), opposite to 
 ie Nene Anlage, is occupied by a bombproof fort commanding 
 le two rivers. Near it are the remnants of a hexagonal 
 ar-fort, erected by Gustavus Adolphus. At this point the 
 ver is crossed by the railway-bridge of the Aschaffenburg- 
 larmstadt-Mainz line, opened Nov. 22nd, 1862. 
 
 Mayence is connected with Castel (see p. 167) by a 
 tidge of boats, 740 yds. in length (toll 2 kr.), below 
 hich, when the water is low, remnants of pillars may 
 2 seen, probably the supports of the wooden bridge built 
 7 Charlemagne in 793—803, afterwards ignited by light- 
 ‘ng and burned to the water’s edge. The greater number, 
 
 the 17 water-mills are attached to these foundation’ 
 liars. Castel is also strongly fortified its, line of forti- 
 tations being connected with those of Mayence. By railway 
 om Castel to Wiesbaden in 20 min., to Frankfurt in 1 hr., 
 ve p. 166. 
 
 Baxrpexsr’s Rhine. 10 
 
36. From Mayence to Cologne. 
 Railway journey. (Comp. Maps R. R. 24, 15 and 4.) 
 
 By the Hessian- Ludwig Railway to Bingen, thence by the Rhenis! 
 line to Cologne; by express in 4 hrs. 35 min., by ordinary trains in 5'/,— 
 57, hrs.; fares: 4Thir, 25, 3 Thir. 15, or 2Thir. 10 Sgr. Return ticket: 
 are valid for 3 days for the 3d cl., and for 5 days for the Ist and 2nd cl. | 
 passengers provided with the latter may break the journey twice, providet| 
 they get their tickets stamped on leaving the carriage. — 50 lbs. of luggag) 
 free. — View of the Rhine to the r. only. 
 
 The train traverses the fortifications of Mayence, and nea 
 stat. Mombach passes opp. to Biebrich (p. 187). The distric| 
 between Mayence and Bingen is flat and uninteresting. Th 
 first station of importance is 
 
 Nieder-Ingelheim (Post; Liwe; Hirsch), where a cele 
 brated palace of Charlemagne, described by ancient historian| 
 and poets as an edifice of great magnificence, once stood 
 Mosaics, marble sculptures, and other works of art, were sen 
 in 784 by Pope Hadrian I. from the palace of Ravenna to ador, 
 the building. The granite columns of the fountain at th 
 castle of Heidelberg (p. 183) were once in the palace a 
 Ingelheim, and other relics from it are to be seen at Mayence| 
 Eberbach, &c. At Ingelheim the convocation of the bishop; 
 of Mayence, Cologne, and Worms, who dethroned Henry IV, 
 assembled on Dee. 30th, 1105. 
 
 An obelisk on the S. side of the village marks the roa 
 begun by Charlemagne, and completed by Napoleon. Fror 
 this point a fine prospect of the entire Rheingau is obtained 
 The red wines of Ingelheim and Heidesheim (*Friederich 
 opposite to Eltville (p. 1386) enjoy a high reputation. In thi 
 district between this and Mayence are numerous quarries ¢ 
 limestone, composed of innumerable snail-shells (Litorinedlt 
 which is conveyed by the returning coal-barges to the Low¢ 
 Rhine and Holland, and burned in the numerous lime-kiln 
 on the banks of the river. 
 
 On the opposite (r.) bank of the river rises the castle ¢ 
 Johannisberg (p. 184). The train now skirts the base of th 
 Rochusberg and stops at the station of 
 
 Bingen (R. 26), where the finest scenery of the Rhin 
 commences. (For a more minute description of the bank 
 of the river between Bingen and Coblenz see RR. 24, 25 
 The Nahe is now crossed at some distance below the old stor 
 bridge, and Bingerbriick (Hotel Rheinstein; Ruppertsberi 
 reached. Opp. to it is the Mouse Tower (p. 105), and in tk 
 immediate vicinity, the station of the Rhine-Nahe line (R. 2% 
 As the train leaves Bingerbrick, a beautiful retrospective vie 
 of the distant Rheingau may be obtained. 
 
BACHARACH. 36. Route. 147 
 
 From Bacharach to Oberwesel, see pp. 101, 100. The 
 delightfully situated town of Oberwesel is next reached ; 
 station at the upper end of the town, near the Church. 
 _After passing through two tunnels, the traveller obtains a 
 _glimpse of the *Lurlei (p. 98) on the r: bank. The train 
 ‘now enters a tunnel penetrating the rocks near the “Bank,” 
 ,on emerging from which it stops at 
 | St. Goar (p. 96); beyond the town the base of the 
 ‘ancient fortress of Rheinfels is skirted. On the opp. bank, 
 ‘above the village of Welmich, rises the Maus (p. 96); farther 
 ‘down, the castles of Liebenstein and Sterrenbery. The station 
 ‘of Boppard is in the rear of the town. Beyond Boppard the 
 ‘village of Osterspay and the picturesque, white castle of 
 ‘Liebeneck are seen on the r. bank. The train next passes 
 through the village of Brey, opp. to Braubach and the castle 
 ‘of Marksburg (p. 93), and the small but ancient town of 
 ‘Rhense, beyond which, to the r. is situated the Konigsstuhl 
 (p. 92). Stat. Capellen is situated at the foot of Stolzenfels, 
 and opp. to the castle of Lahneck and Oberlahnstein (railway 
 ‘to Ems and Limburg, see R. 22), with which it is connected 
 ‘by a steam ferry-boat. — Opp. to the island of Oberwerth the 
 train quits the bank of the Rhine, skirts the base of Fort 
 Constantine and traverses the fortifications of 
 
 Coblenz, see R. 20. From the station little or nothing 
 ‘can be seen of the town. As the train crosses the Moselle 
 ‘a fine view is obtained of Ehrenbreitstein to the r., rising 
 above the arches of the stone bridge. At the foot of the 
 fortified Petersberg, to the 1., is situated the monument of 
 Marceau (p. 80). A pleasing view is now obtained of Neu- 
 wied, commanded by the chateau of Monrepos, to the r.; above 
 the village of Weissenthurm, to the 1., rise the monument of 
 General Hoche (p. 67) and the ancient boundary tower. The 
 tation of 
 
 Neuwied (p. 66) is situated 1 M. from the town, which 
 des on the opposite bank. The train next crosses the Nette, 
 Qasses the Netterhof (p. 67) and stops at the station of 
 
 Andernach (p. 65), %, M. distant from the town; the 
 thurch, the ancient tower and walls are the most conspicuous 
 dbjects. The Lunatic Asylum (l.) was once the Augustine 
 dunnery of St. Thomas. Beyond Andernach the train runs 
 ‘lose to the river and commands a beautiful view in both 
 jirections; farther on, it passes the Krahnenberg, where, on 
 he construction of the line, the remains of a Roman villa 
 vere discovered, and intersects the lava-stream of the Fornicher 
 Mopf (p. 65) (to the r. the castle of Namedy is visible). Opp. 
 © stat. Brohd is situated the church of Rheinbrohl (Brohl- 
 
 ig* 
 
148 Route 56. SINZIG. 
 
 thal, etc., see R. 19); the train then skirts the base of the 
 castle of Rheineck and passes stat. Nieder-Breisig, opp- to (r.) 
 the castle of Arenfels, where the bank of the river is quitted. | 
 The next station is | 
 
 Sinzig (* Hotel Baur; Deutsches Haus) a small and very | 
 ancient town, surrounded by high walls, 114 M. from the | 
 river. The ruins of the Franconian palace, afterwards Imperial | 
 residence, which stood here, and from which various decrees | 
 of Pepin, the emperor Henry III., and others were issued, | 
 have been converted into a picturesque modern Gothic villa. 
 The Helenenberg, to the l. of the line and S. of the town, | 
 derives its name from a tradition that the empress Helena | 
 once founded a chapel on it. The handsome * Church, in the} 
 finest transition style, the round predominating, is constructed 
 of tuffstone and dates from the 138th cent. A natural) 
 | mummy called the “holy Vogt”, found in the churchyard| 
 | 200 years ago, is exhibited in a glass case in one of the| 
 chapels. A worthless picture, painted in 1708, alludes to| 
 | Constantine’s vision of the Cross (p. 140), the scene of which, | 
 according to some traditions, was at Sinzig. The choir con-| 
 tains a fine winged picture on gold ground by a Dutch master 
 (John Foeten, 1480), restored in 1855. (Ahrthal, see R. 17; 
 | diligence from Sinzig twice a day to Ahrweiler in 11/, hr., 
 see p. 56). 
 . Remagen (and the Apollinarisberg, see pp. 61, 62) is 
 one of the stations (Sinzig the other) for the Valley of the 
 | Ahr (R. 17). Here the train re-approaches the river; beautiful} 
 retrospective view. Farther on, the scene of the landsliy 
 of the Birgeler Kopf is intersected by the line, where, as 
 well as at Rolandseck, the peculiar formation of the moun, 
 tains is exposed to view by the railway cuttings. Beyonc 
 the village of Oberwinter the train reaches 
 
 Rolandseck (* Railway refreshment-rooms ; magnificent view] 
 gee p. 51), a favorite resort of the inhabitants of Bonn ang 
 Cologne. — Mehlem, the station for Kénigswinter on the 4 
 bank, is ¥/, M. from the Rhine; ferry to Konigswinter in 5 min 
 
 Most of the handsome residences of Godesberg (* Blinzler) 
 opposite to the station, belong to wealthy merchants of Cologne 
 Elberfeld, &c. The Draischbrunnen, a weak alkaline, chalybeat 
 spring, was known to the Romans, as is proved by a votive-table! 
 to Aesculapius, found in the vicinity. Half a mile to the Ni 
 of the station, on an eminence (275 ft.), stands the handsom| 
 castle-tower (100 ft.). At the foot of the hill a Roman colon’ 
 is said formerly to have existed, and at the summit a for) 
 founded by the emperor Julian (360), a temple, and afterward 
 a Christian church. The castle was erected in the 13th an! 
 
 Sa 
 
 } 
 
HOCHKREUZ. 56. Route. 1A9 
 
 following centuries by the archbishops of Cologne, principally 
 as a protection against the incursions of the citizens of Cologne 
 (p. 27). In 1583 it was defended by Count Adolf of Neuen- 
 ahr against the Bavarians, who fought in support of the newly 
 chosen Archbishop Ernst of Bavaria against the deposed 
 Gebhard of Waldburg, who had turned Protestant. They 
 succeeded in storming the castle, and blew it up; the tower 
 alone has escaped destruction. Fine view from the summit. 
 The ruin now belongs to the queen of Prussia. 
 
 As Bonn is approached, to the r, stands the Hochkreuz, 
 an obelisk 30 ft. in height, erected in 1332—49 to the memory 
 of a knight who fell in a duel at this spot. The train now 
 crosses the Poppelsdorf avenue and enters the station of 
 
 Bonn, see R. 14. On leaving the station, the Cemetery 
 with its chapel are seen to the r., and the Kreuzberg to the 
 1. Roisdorf possesses a mineral spring, similar to that of 
 Selters. Near stat. Sechtem the wine-growing district termin- 
 ates. The former royal hunting-residence Falkenlust, con- 
 nected with Brihl by an avenue, is now private property. 
 
 Briihl (* Pavillon; * Belvedere; *Barion, on the Cologne 
 
 road). The train stops opposite to the royal Pulace of Brihl, 
 ‘a handsome building, erected by the Elector Clemens August 
 in 1728. During the French period Marshal Davoust resided 
 in it for several years, and it was afterwards assigned to the 
 ‘4th cohort of the French Legion of Honour. For many years 
 ‘it was untenanted and fell to decay, but was restored in 1842 
 ‘by the late king Fred. William IV. The halls contain old 
 ‘portraits of Rhenish electors and other princes. The garden 
 ‘and park are favorite resorts of the inhabitants of Bonn and 
 ‘Cologne. 
 After passing stat. Aalscheuren, the train skirts the W. 
 side of the city, passes by the Town Garden and the goods 
 ‘station, traverses the fortifications and a portion of the town, 
 and finally enters the station of 
 
 Cologne, see R. 10. 
 
 37. Wiesbaden. 
 (Comp. Map. R, 34) 
 
 Hotels. Hotel Victoria, *Taunus Hotel (R. and L. 1'/ fl., A. 24 kr.), 
 ‘both near the railway stations. — With baths: *The Four Seasons Hotel, 
 *Eagle, *Rose, *Nassauer Hof, all of the first class): — Hétel de 
 France, *Griiner Wald (Green Wood), more moderate. — *Table d’héte 
 im the Cursaal, at 1 o’cl, 1 fl., at 5 o’e). 13/, fl, 
 
 | There are also numerous Bathing-establishments: *EKuropean Hotel, 
 fat the Kochbrunnen, well fitted up, English Hotel, *Bear, *Roémer- 
 bad, Engel, *Schwan, Krone, &c. The charges vary with the season. 
 ‘In the Rémerbad, for example, from October to April a bedroom is let for 
 
WIESBADEN. 
 
 2 fl. per week, in May and September for 5 fl,, in June and Aug. for 7 fl., 
 and in July for 9 f.; a bath in the 7 winter months costs 15 kr., in the 
 5 summer months 24 kr. Tea and coffee are the only refreshments supplied 
 in these establishments. 
 
 Restaurants. *Christmann, Lugenbihl; Restaurant Francais, , 
 all in the untere Webersgasse, near the Theaterplatz; Sp ehner; Café | 
 Hartmann; table d’héte in all during the season, Beer at Christmann’s | 
 (see above), at the *Bierstadter-Berg, '/, M. to the S. E, of the Cur- | 
 saal, and at Duensings near the station. 
 
 Newspapers in the Reading-room of the Cursaal; the guests of the 
 establishment can procure cards of admission gratis from the directors. | 
 
 Military Concert in the Curgarten from 4 to 6 p.m., and frequently later , 
 in the evening by gas-light. 
 
 Cursaal. During the height of the season “ Réunions dansantes” on | 
 Saturdays, for which separate cards of admission are necessary. Concerts on | 
 | 
 
 150 Route 37. 
 
 Fridays, performances by musicians of the highest class; adm. 1—3 fi. 
 
 Theatre, 3—5 times a week at 6'/, o’clock. 
 
 Carriages. From the station to the town 1—2 pers. 30, 3-4 pers. 48 kr. 
 (inc. trunk, travelling bag, and hat-box); each additional trunk 6 kr. A drive 
 in the town 1—2 pers. 18, 3—4 pers. 24, '/ hr. 24—36, 1 hr. 1 fl. 12-1 fl. 
 24 kr.; two-horse carriages about '/, rd more, To the Greek Chapel and 
 back 1 fl. 30-1 fl. 48 kr.; to the Platte and back 4—5 fl.; to Schlangenbad 
 5—7 fl.; to Schwalbach 6—8 fl. | 
 
 Donkeys, on the Sonnenberg road, opp. to the Berliner Hof, 30 kr, per | 
 hour (inc. fee); to the Platte and back 1 fi, 24 kr. : 
 
 Railway Stations of the Taunus line (R. 40) and the Right-Rhenish | 
 or Nassoyian line (to Oberlahnstein, Ems, Limburg, Wetzlar, comp. RR. 22, | 
 | 
 | 
 | 
 
 23) at the E. extremity of the Rheinstrasse. 
 Telegraph Office Bahnhofstrasse 1. 
 The Mineral Waters are drunk from 5to 8 a.m., seldom in the evening. 
 English Church Service is performed by a resident chaplain in the new 
 English church is the Wilhelmstrasse. 
 
 Wiesbaden (pop. 20,797, 6022 Rom. Cath.), the capital | 
 of the Duchy of Nassau, and principal residence of the Duke, | 
 is one of the oldest watering-places in Germany.  “ Sunt et 
 Mattiaci in Germania fontes calidi trans Rhenum, quorum haustus | 
 triduo fervet” is the account given by Pliny (hist. nat. XXX, 2) 
 of Wiesbaden. On the Heidenberg, which rises to the N. of 
 the town, traces of a Roman fortress (500 ft. in length, and 
 nearly as broad) were discovered in 18388, which according to | 
 the inscriptions was garrisoned by the 14th and 22nd Legions. | 
 The Heidenmauer (heathens’ wall), 650 ft. long, 10 ft. high, 
 and 9 ft. thick, among the stones of which fragments of ruined : 
 temples, votive-tablets &c. may be recognized, now forms a 
 sort of town-wall on the N. W. side, and was perhaps a con- 
 necting line between the fort on the Romerberg and the town. | 
 Urns, implements, weapons, and tombstones of Roman soldiers, 
 found here on different occasions, are exhibited in the Mu- | 
 seum (p. 152). 
 
 Wiesbaden lies on the S. W. spurs of the Taunus moun-| 
 tains, 90 ft. above the Rhine, and is surrounded by) 
 handsome villas standing in pleasure-grounds tastefully laid | 
 out. These are most numerous in the vicinity of the Cursaal| 
 and the railway stations, and are principally designed for the 
 
Jursaul. WIESBADEN. 37. Route. 151 
 
 ccommodation of visitors. The annual number of strangers 
 rho visit Wiesbaden amounts to (1863) 35,000, of whom one- 
 lird are passers-through. It also attracts about 1600 winter 
 esidents by the various public institutions of art and science 
 i contains. It is needless to say that there is a considerable 
 ifference between the summer and winter prices. 
 
 On leaving the station (at the S. E. end of the town) 
 1e traveller enters the Wilhelmstrasse, planted with trees 
 nd about 1, M. in length, bounding the entire E. side of the 
 ywn. At its extremity on the 1., is the Theaterplatz, three 
 des of which are occupied by the Hotel of the Four Seasons, 
 ie Hotel Zais, the Nassauer Hof, and the Theatre; on the r. 
 
 the square in front of the Cursaal, embellished with two 
 andsome fountains. On each side of the square are long 
 ad spacious colonnades, where every description of fancy 
 rticle is on sale. 
 
 The *Cursaal is the chief resort of visitors. The principal 
 all is embellished with niches containing copies of celebrated 
 atiques. The orchestra galleries are supported by handsome 
 lars of the red and grey marble of the country. To the 
 
 and |. are spacious and magnificently decorated saloons, 
 edicated to play(open from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.), dining, ball, 
 rawing, and reading rooms. To the rear of the building are 
 Stefully laid-out pleasure-grounds, much frequented in the 
 ‘ternoon as a promenade; a good band is in frequent atten- 
 ance, and the scene is highly animated and gay. In the 
 idst of a fish-pond of considerable size a fountain throws a 
 tt of water upwards of 100 ft. Paths laid out in a delightful 
 rassy dale lead past the Dvietenmiihle (good inn), where a 
 ydropathic estab. (Dr. Genth, director) has been recently 
 gened, to the ruin of Sonnenberg (114 M.) and the Rambacher 
 apelle, 14, M. farther, where remains of a Roman camp 
 ere excavated in 1559. 
 
 The Kochbrunnen, or boiling spring, is the most im- 
 wrtant of the warm springs (156° Fahr.), and is connected 
 ith the Curgarten by means of a long iron Trinkhalle 
 > Pump-room, in the form of a veranda. The * Hygeia 
 ‘oup, near the spring, was executed by Hoffmann of Wies- 
 iden in 1850. 
 
 The warm spring in the garden of the Adler (Eagle) Hotel 
 
 also provided with a pump-room. Another spring (122° 
 ahr.) in the Schiutzenhof is enclosed in a large vaulted build- 
 g belonging to the Roman period, where Roman relics have 
 ven found. The principal ingredient in the water is chloride 
 ‘ sodium. 
 
 The most conspicuous building in the town is the Gothic 
 
152 «Route 37. WIESBADEN. Museum. 
 
 : 
 
 Protestant Church with five lofty towers, opposite to the| 
 palace, built of polished bricks in 1852—1860. The Roman 
 Cath. Church is also a handsome modern structure in the 
 yound-arch style, with vaulted network ceiling. The altar-| 
 piece to the r., a Madonna and Child is by Steinle, that P| 
 the ]., St. Boniface, by Fethel. 
 
 The other buildings worthy of note are the Ducal Palace, 
 the Palace of the Dowuger-Duchess, constructed in the style 
 of the Alhambra, situated on the height near the Cursaal, and 
 the Ministerial buildings, in the Florentine palatial style. : 
 
 The Museum in the so-called “Schiésschen” in the Wil-| 
 helmstrasse contains a collection of Roman and other anti- 
 quities (open to the public Mon., Wed. and Frid. 3—6 p-m.) 
 on the ground-floor, amongst which the Mithras-altar, with 
 remarkably well preserved sculptures, discovered at Heddern- 
 heim: (Novus Vicus) on the Nidda, 44%, M. to the N. W. of 
 Frankfurt, deserves particular inspection. Among the curiosities 
 of the middle ages is a gilded and carved wooden altar of 
 the 13th cent., which formerly belonged to the Abbey of 
 Marienstadt near Hachenburg. On the ground-floor to the nr, 
 a Ficture Gallery (Sun., Mon., Wed. and Frid. 11—4) has 
 begun to be formed. The first floor contains an admirably 
 arranged collection of objects of Natural History, especially of 
 geological specimens from the Duchy of Nassau, and Gerning’s; 
 celebrated Collection of Insects (Mon., Wed. and Frid. 2—6, 
 also Wed. 11—1). — The Library in the upper story (open 
 on Mon., Wed. and Frid. from 9 to 12 and from 2 to 4). 
 contains some valuable old MSS., among which may be men- 
 tioned “The Visions of St. Hildegard”, a parchment MS., 
 illuminated with curious miniatures of the 12th cent. and| 
 “The Visions of St. Elisabeth of Schonau”, with painted and 
 gilt letters. 
 
 The Collection of Antiquities and objects of art from Italy, 
 the property of Prince Emil v. Wittgenstein, is open to the 
 public Mon., Wed. and Frid. afternoon. 
 
 Wiesbaden possesses several excellent educational establish-| 
 ments, the most important of which are the Chemical Labora- 
 tory of Fresenius, the Agricultural institution on the old Geis- 
 berg, Schirm’s Commercial School, the Grammar School, &c. 
 
 On the Neroberg, 1 M. to the N. of the town, where, ac- 
 cording to an obscure tradition, the Emperor Nero once had 
 a palace, is situated the *Russian-Greek Chapel, erected! 
 by the Duke as a Mausoleum for his first wife, the Duchess 
 Elizabeth Michailowna, a Russian princess who died in 1846.. 
 From the portal a fine view is obtained of Wiesbaden andi 
 Mainz, to the S. the Melibocus, and S. W. the long ridge 
 
Cemetery. WIESBADEN. 37. Route. 153 
 
 of the Donnersberg. The Chapel is constructed of sandstone 
 in the form of a Greek cross, and is richly decorated, prin- 
 eipally in the round-arch style. It is surmounted by one 
 large, and four smaller cupolas, all richly gilded, on the highest 
 of which is a Russian double cross, 183 ft. from the ground, 
 secured by hanging gilt chains, in the style of the Kremlin 
 at Moscow. The interior consists entirely of marble, white 
 and coloured. A rich Altar-screen (Ikonostas), with repre- 
 sentations of numerous saints, especially those revered in 
 Russia, separates the choir, which is only accessible to the 
 priests and their attendants, from the body of the chapel. The 
 
 altar itself, with a Crucifix of crystal, is only visible during 
 
 divine service. A pentagonal recess on the N. side contains 
 a magnificent monument to the Duchess. The recumbent 
 
 - effigy is of white marble, and rests on a sarcophagus, at the 
 
 sides of which are statuettes of the 12 Apostles, and- at the 
 
 _ corners Faith, Hope, Charity, and Immortality, executed by 
 
 Professor Hopfgarten of Berlin. Divine service, according to 
 the ritual of the Greek church, is performed here every Sun- 
 day at 10 a.m., but the public are excluded. At other times 
 
 the chapel is shown by the sacristan who lives near (fee for 
 1 pers. 24 kr., for a party of 3—4, 1 fl.). Near the chapel is a 
 well-kept Russian Burial-ground, containing several monuments. 
 
 About */, M. to the N. W. beyond the chapel is an open 
 
 ‘temple supported by pillars, which commands a fine view. 
 
 . Promenades and walks of all kinds traverse the wood in every 
 
 direction, and extend as far as the Platte (see below). At 
 
 the base of the hill on the S. is the Hydropathic Establishment 
 of Nerothal. 
 
 The *Cemetery, on the hill-side opposite to the Neroberg, 
 
 jand 1 M. from the Cursaal, contains many handsome monu- 
 
 ments, several of which are Russian. To the r. of the build- 
 ing used for depositing the coffins, stands the monument of 
 
 the Hanoverian General von Baring, the defender of La Haye 
 
 Sainte at the battle of Waterloo. A fragment of a pillar on 
 the E. wall bears the name of the Polish General Uminsky 
 
 (d. 1851). A chapel is in course of construction over the 
 ‘grave of the Duchess Pauline (d. 1856), who, according to her 
 ‘own wish, was interred here. 
 
 the |. is situated the ancient nunnery of Clarenthal, founded 
 
 The *Platte, a hunting-residence of the Duke, stands on 
 a height (1511 ft.), abont 414 M. to the N. of Wiesbaden, and 
 
 ‘is frequently visited for the sake of the view. The above- 
 
 mentioned walks on the Nerobery are connected with the 
 
 Platte, and abundantly provided with signposts. The carriage 
 
 drive is the old Limburg road. (Far below in the valley to 
 
154 Route 37. WIESBADEN. 
 
 in 1296 by the Emperor Adolf of Nassau and his consort 
 Imagina of Limburg; above it, the former Fasanerie, or 
 pheasantry). The view from the platform of the building 
 extends over the Westerwald, Spessart, Odenwald, Donners- 
 berg, the entire valley of the Rhine as far as the Haardt 
 mountains, with Mayence iu the foreground. The large tele- 
 scope enables the spectator distinctly to recognize the people 
 crossing the bridge of boats. The interior of the shooting- 
 box contains no objects of arts, with the exception of some 
 pictures of animals, but is appropriately fitted up. Near it is 
 a good inn. The pedestrian may descend from the Platte in 
 a S. E. direction to the Sonnenberg (p. 151) about 31, M. 
 distant. The path leads past an oak plantation to the |. of 
 the high road, and is distinctly visible from the platform. 
 Wiesbaden lies 114, M. to the S. W. of the Sonnenberg. ~ 
 
 Wiesbaden is connected with Mosbach (p. 137) by a road 
 planted with a quadruple row of horse-chesnuts. Half-way to 
 the village is the Adolphshohe, a restaurant, which affords a 
 survey of the Rheingau as far as the Rochuscapelle at Bingen. 
 
 Another fine view is obtained from the Chausseehaus or 
 Forester’s house, on the old: Schwalbach road, about 3 M. 
 from Wiesbaden, where the road to Georgenborn and Schlangen- 
 bad diverges. — Excursion to the Taunusmountains see R. 40. 
 
 38. Schwalbach and Schlangenbad. 
 
 (Comp. Map R. 34.) 
 
 Hotels in Schwalbach. *Alleesaal; *Post; *Duke of Nassau, R, | 
 
 1f., L. 15, B. 30 kr., D. exc. W.1 4. 12 kr.; Taunus Hotel; *Hotel 
 
 Wagner; *Russischer Hof, D. 48 kr. in the two latter. 
 Boarding Houses (without dinner). Among others may be mentioned : 
 
 Neglein, Kranich (telegr. office and starting point of the Wiesbaden , 
 
 cmnibus), Wiener Hof, Stadt Hanau, Einhorn, Victoria, Belle- 
 
 vue, Tivoli (large and well fitted up, but somewhat expensive) Panorama, | 
 Widow Grebert, Pariser Hof (dinner), Stadt Coblenz, Englischer 
 
 Hof, — Dinner may be procured from the Duke of Nassau Hotel, Hotel 
 
 Wagner, Dieffenbach’s Restaurant or the Pariser Hof; price from 1 fl, to 36 kr. | 
 
 Reading Room in the Alleesaal. 
 
 Baths in the Badhaus (from 5 a.m. till UA, p.m., 1 fl.). Kranich, | 
 Stadt Mainz, Engl. Hof, Einhorn, Baltzer 54 kr, per bath. Con- 
 
 tribution to the band 2 fil. for the season. 
 
 Carriages and Horses have no fixed charges, donkeys according to a 
 
 printed tariff. 
 Diligence to Wiesbaden in 2 hrs., at 7 a.m. and 1'/, p.m., to Schlangenbad 
 
 (in 1 hr.) and Eléville (in 2 hrs.) at 3 a.m. and 5!/, p.m. in summer only; to | 
 
 Diez (p. 86) at 8 p.m. in 4 hrs. -- Omnibus to Wiesbaden at 7'/, a.m. 
 in 2!/, hrs. : 
 Telegraph Office in the ‘‘ Kranich”. 
 English Church Service in the Lutheran Church during the season, 
 
 : 
 
 | 
 
LANGEN-SCHWALBACH. 38. Route. 155 
 
 Langen-Schwalbach, commonly called Schwalbach, is 
 situated on the Wiesbaden and Coblenz road, 1014 M. to the 
 N. W. of Wiesbaden and 25 M. S. E. of Ems. The three 
 principal springs, the Stah/brunnen in one of the valleys, and the 
 Wein- and Paulinenbrunnen in the other, are connected by 
 "y means of walks and shrubberies. The Bath-establishment 
 s at the Weinbrunnen; the water, which is strongly impreg- 
 nated with iron and carbonic acid gas, is adapted for internal 
 8 well as external use, and is especially efficacious in nervous 
 ind female complaints. 
 | The village itself */, M. in length, is situated in a beautiful 
 vooded ravine. The annual number of visitors is upwards 
 ‘f 3000. The Paulinenberg, Platte, the ruins of (2 M.) Adolphs- 
 ick (Kling) and (6 M.) Hohenstein (Ziemen) are very favorite 
 esorts. — A good road leads from Schwalbach through the 
 Visperthal to Lorch (21 M.) on the Rhine. 
 
 Schwalbach is usually approached from Wiesbaden, from 
 'Itville by Schlangenbad (diligence twice daily) cr from Ems 
 ‘ailway to Diez, thence by carriage [no diligence] in 4 hrs.) 
 
 The new high-road from Wiesbaden to Schwalbach (diligence 
 t 81, a.m. and 10 p.m. in 21, hrs., omnibus at 514 p.m. from 
 ie ‘Taunus Hotel, opp. the rail. stations), soon after Wies- 
 aden is left, quits the old road leading by the Chausseehaus 
 nod the Hohe Wurzel (1600 ft.), and enters the Aarthal, which 
 
 follows, passing by Bleidenstadt, till Schwalbach is reached. 
 : The road from Biebrich to Schlangenbad and Schwalbach 
 tarriage to Schlangenbad in 11/,, to Schwalbach in 31/, hrs.) 
 vads by Schierstein and Neudorf (Krone), where it unites with 
 1e road from Eltville; it then passes the former convent of 
 fefenthal (now a mill), and traverses a picturesque valley, 
 ilivened by numerous mills. The pedestrian is recommended 
 » make a circuit of 1'/, M. by Rauenthal; about 3/4, M. 
 yond Neudorf a signpost indicates the road to the 1., leading 
 ’ Rauenthal (Nassauer Hof), celebrated for its wine, situated 
 a the ridge of the hill. On leaving the S. side of the village 
 1e tourist will see a cross, 50 yds. beyond which he must 
 im to the r. and then ascend to the l.; in a few minutes 
 2 will reach the Rauenthaler Hohe (1668 ft.), which commands 
 magnificent view of the entire Rheingau from Mayence to 
 slow Johannisberg, with the handsome buildings of Eltville 
 . the foreground. 
 
 On the N. side of Rauenthal a good path leads along the 
 ll-side to Schlangenbad. Those who prefer to return to the 
 gh road must turn down to the r. by the signpost, 1/4, M. 
 Om the village, and a descent of 1/, hr. more will bring them 
 the road; 114 M. farther, Schlangenbad (41/4, M. from 
 
156 Route 38. SCHLANGENBAD. 
 
 Schwalbach) is reached (* Nassauer Hof, D. 1 fl. 12 kr., R. at ! 
 fixed rates; Hotel Victoria, D exc. W. 1 fl. — The refreshment | 
 rooms in the upper and lower Curhaus, and on the terrace, ! 
 belong to the landlord of the Nassauer Hof). The baths are | 
 visited principally by ladies. The water (84°—90° Fahr.), | 
 only used externally, is clear and free from odour, and is | 
 smooth and oily to the touch; it is most efficacious in skin | 
 complaints, convulsive affections, nervous weakness, and similar 
 maladies. For a minute and masterly description of the whole” 
 of this locality, the reader is referred to the work of Sir 
 Francis Head, “Bubbles from the Brunnens of Nassau.” Suffice | 
 it here to say that Schlangenbad, unlike Ems in its circle of} 
 hills, is situated in a richly wooded valley, refreshed by a | 
 constant current of air, which invigorates the enervated frame. 
 Paths of easy ascent are cut in all directions through the 
 woods, affording enjoyment even to those whose pedestrian } 
 powers are limited. Instead of the day being devoted to the | 
 excitements of “roulette” and “rouge et noir”, it is passed in) 
 healthful recreation and the pure enjoyment of exquisite sce- | 
 nery and a delightful and invigorating atmosphere. | 
 According to a tradition the springs were discovered by | 
 a cow-herd, 200 years ago, who found his herd diminishing, | 
 and going in search of the truant animals found them lux- | 
 uriating in the warm spring. The Bath establishment was | 
 erected by the former lord of the svil, the Landgrave Carl | 
 of Hessen-Cassel, and surrounded by pleasure grounds. The | 
 terrace at the Curhaus and the grounds connected with it are) 
 the only public places of resort for visitors. Schlangenbad 
 also possesses a whey-cure establishment. 
 
 - From Schlangenbad to Wiesbaden the new carriage-road by | 
 Georgenborn (7!/, M.) is the best route for pedestrians. The road ascends i 
 in an BE, direction to Georgenborn (1152 ft.). From the highest point a 
 
 magnificent prospect is enjoyed of the neighbourhood of Frankfurt as far as | 
 the confluence of the Main and Rhine, the Rhine from Worms to Bingen, | 
 and in the background the Donnersberg. A road leads from the village to | 
 the Chausseehaus (p. 154), about 2!/, M. distant; thence to Wiesbaden by the \ 
 old Wiesbaden and Schwalbach road (3%/, M.). =| 
 
 ) 
 =| 
 
 The high-road from Schlangenbad by Wambach to Schwal- 
 bach (41/4, M.) rises considerably for about 2 M., commanding | 
 a fine view from the culminating point, and then descends to 
 Schwalbach. 
 
 39. Frankfurt. | 
 
 Hotels. Outside of the town, conveniently situated between the Taunus | 
 and Main-Weser stations: *Westendhall, R,. 1/1. and upwards, L. 18, B | 
 30 kr., D. exc. W. 1 fl. 12 kr., A. 24 kr.: also a café-restaurant. In the} 
 town: *Hétel de Russie (of the highest class) and *Roman Emperom, | 
 
 in the Zeil; *Hétel d’Angleterre, in the Rossmarkt, R. 1%, fl. LL. 289 
 ! 
 
ae es \ NS 
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 a5: 
 
 ES. | 
 
 3 
 
 33k Mestendhall. 
 3.\1. RhemHot . - - 
 
 F 
 
 DA. 
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 D4. 
 
 Undore 
 Hof 
 7 
 
 Landsbe. 
 
 Hof 
 Hartser 
 cher Hof 
 
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 h HoliandiveherHor 
 
 iS 
 
 nisseler Hof 
 
 Schivan 
 oteldel 
 
 Pariser 
 B) 
 
 a Rassisther 
 b Romischer 
 
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 Lic tngli 
 
 th 
 
I Bethmanns Museum 
 2 Bibliothek 
 
 3 Barse 
 
 4 BurgersVerein 
 
 5 Braunfels 
 
 6 Casino 
 
 7 Constablermache 
 
 8 Dom 
 
 9 Denkmal Carl A.Gr. 
 10 Denkmal Goethe's 
 
 Il Denkm. Gutienherg's 
 12 Denkm.der Hessen 
 13 Denkm.Guiollets 
 
 VW Deutsch Ordenshaus 
 lh Fremden Hospital 
 16 Goethe's Vaterhaus 
 17 Hauptwache 
 
 18 Jsra el. Kran henha hs 
 | 119 Katharinen Kirche 
 " 20) Lichfrauen.kirche 
 
 Nicolai Kirche 
 Pals Kirche 
 
 ad { 
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 thy oF / =< W223 Kunst Verein ( Porm Manst C4 
 any f in 4 castatig het 
 i Zs Y Na at | Peters Kirche “FE 2. 
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 en aes » Post E3. 
 f ; ; >» Reform Kirche tranzis) DA, 
 Reform. Kirche (deutsch) Wks 
 
 Saathof 
 Sen kenberg’s Stift 
 dladels Anstalt 
 S{Leonhards Kirche 
 6 33 Synagoge 
 | Theater 
 Turnanstall 
 
 | Weisslrauen Kirche — D5. 
 38 Loolog.Garten AZ| 
 39 KestsuaThan C4 
 G2. 
 
FRANKFURT. 
 
 |B. 42 kr., D. 1'f, fl., A. 30 kr. — *Swan, B, 1 fl., L. 18, B. 18, B. SO MtAU 
 24 kr., excellent table-d’héte at 1, inc. W. 1 A. 45 kr., and Hotel de 
 Union (similar prices), near Goethe’s monument, — *Hollandischer 
 (Hof, in the Goethe-Platz, R. 1 fl. 20 ky., L. 18, B. 36, A. 24 kr.. at the 
 game time a café-restaurant. *La ndsberg, R. 1#., L. 18 kr.: good dinner 
 fat 1, inc. W. 1 fi. 30, B. 36, A. 18 kr,: Rheinischer Hof, in the Buch- 
 igasse; Pariser Hof, in the Paradeplatz, all second-class houses. G riiner 
 Baum, grosse Fischergasse, and Stadt Darmstadt in the same street, 
 ‘ery moderate. 
 
 Cafés. Milani, next door to the theatre: Holland, in the Goethe- 
 platz; Parrot, next to the Post office; Café neuf, in the Schillerplatz. 
 
 Confectioners. Roédder, opposite to the Goethe-monument; good ices 
 (2 kr.; Butschli, kleiner Hirschgraben 8; Knecht. by St. Paul’s Church. 
 
 Restaurants. Jouy, Gallengasse, good but dear. *Jacoby, in the 
 Stiftsstrasse, near the Zeil; wine good, Westendhall at the Taunus station: 
 Istendhall at the Bavarian station. Beer may be procured at the following 
 testaurants: *Eysser, by the Main-Weser station; in the town: *Zum 
 Guttenberg in the Gallengasse, not far from the stations. 
 
 : Newspapers in the Birgerverein (p. 165). 
 
 Theatre (Pl. 34), representations nearly every day. 
 
 : Railways. Taunus-line and Hessen-Ludwig-line see R. 40, Main- 
 Neckar-line, R. 41, Main-Weser-line, for Homburg (p. 170). The three stations 
 idjoin each other, and are situated on the W. side of the town. The 
 Bavarian station is on the E. side, outside of the Allerheiligenthor, The 
 Offenbach station is in Sachsenhausen, on the 1. bank of the Main. 
 
 Omnibus from the station to the town 12 ky., for each box 6 kr. From 
 hhe town to the station 6 kr. for a passenger without luggage, 12 kr. for a 
 gassenger with ordinary luggage, for each additional box 6 kr. 
 
 Fiacres from the station to the town for 1—2 persons with ordinary 
 luggage 24 kr., 3 pers. 30 kr., 4 pers. 36 kr.; for each box 6 kr. By time: 
 J horse) for 4/, hr. 1—2 pers. 12 kr., 3—4 pers. 18 kr,; (2 horses) 18 and 
 t4kr. For longer periods at somewhat reduced rates. N.B. The wnnumbered 
 vehicles have no fixed tariffs. 
 
 Telegraph -offices. The Frankfurt and Prussian offices are at the Ex- 
 h the Bavarian Paulsplatz No. 2, At the Taunus station despatches 
 f 
 | 
 
 39. Route. 157 
 
 within the limits of this line only are received, 
 
 Valets de place 1°/,—2 fl. per diem. 
 
 Shops, the best in the Zeil. Béohler, Zeil, 54, ornaments of carved 
 itag’s horn. I[hlee, Zeil 63, small bronze objects (Ariadne). Antonio 
 Vanni, Kruggasse 8, depot of casts from antiques and modern sculptures. 
 Jos. Milani, Bleidenstrasse 6, Sartorio, grosser Kornmarkt, fruit- 
 merchants. Toys at Albert’s, Zeil 36. 
 
 Baths. Warm-baths at the Leonhardsthor and at the island, 48 kr. Cold- 
 baths at the Untermainthor 12 kr.; also swimming-bath, 12—16 kr. 
 
 Military music at the W. end of the Zeil at 12 o’clock; on Wednesday 
 it the Goetheplatz. The garrison consists of Austrian, Prussian, Bavarian, 
 ind Frankfurt troops. 
 
 English Church Service performed every Sunday by a resident chaplain 
 n the French Church in the Goetheplatz. 
 
 Collections and Exhibitions: 
 
 ‘Ariadneum (p. 164), or Bethmann’s Museum, daily 10-1 o’clock; fee 18— 
 24 kr. 
 
 Uxhibition of the Art-union (Pl. 23), Junghofstr.; adm. (9—6 o’clock) 30 kr. 
 
 Town-library (p. 162). Mond, Wed. and Frid. from 2—4, Tues. and Thurs, 
 from 10—12. 
 
 * Diorama near the Main-Weser-station; adm. 1 fl., or 36 kr. 
 
 * Kaisersaal, in the Rémer (p. 159), open from the beginning of May till the 
 end of September, on Mon., Wed. and Frid. from 11—1 o’clock. 
 
 Senckenberg natural hist. society (p. 164); the collections open on Wed. 
 2—4, and Frid. 11—1, gratis; at other times for a fee of 24 kr. 
 
 Stadel picture-gallery (p. 165) daily 11—1 gratis, at other times for a fee 
 of 30 kr. 
 
 *Zoological garden (p. 166); adm. 30 kr.; concert on Wed., Sat. and Sund, 
 
158 Route 39. FRANKFURT. Monuments. | 
 
 Those whose time is limited should inspect the Stadel Gallery (p. 165), 
 the Kaisersaal (p. 159), the Dom (p. 161), Dannecker’s Ariadne (p. 164), the) 
 monuments of Goethe, Gutenberg and Schiller. 
 
 Frankfurt on the Main (Pop. 82,000; 11,000 Rom. Cath. 
 and 4500 Jews) was formerly a free town of the Empire, | 
 and is now one of the free towns of the German Confede-| 
 ration, the seat of the Diet, and garrisoned by 4500 troops. 
 Old watch-towers at different points in the vicinity indicate] 
 the extent of the ancient city in which the German emperors) 
 were formerly elected and crowned. Frankfurt is situated in| 
 a spacious plain bounded by mountains, on the river Main) 
 navigable for ships of a considerable size, and forming a source 
 of great commercial advantage to the city, which ranks among! 
 the handsomest and most opulent in Germany. 
 
 The town is surrounded by the “Anlagen”, or public 
 grounds, in which are situated many substantial and tastefully 
 built residences. An air of wealth and importance pervades 
 the entire city, affording a striking indication of the success 
 and extent of its commercial relations. 
 
 Frankfurt dates its origin from the time of Charlemagne. In 794 the 
 emperor held a convocation of the bishops and dignitaries of the empire i 
 the royal residence ‘‘ Franconofurt”’ (ford of the Franks). Louis the Piou'| 
 granted to the town certain privileges, and from the time of Louis the Germar 
 it gradually rose to importance. Iu 1249 Frederick II. sanctioned the Easte}| 
 Fair. By the Golden Bull of Charles IV. Frankfurt was destined to be th 
 Town of Election of the German Empire, and the majority of the emperor) 
 were here chosen. After the dissolution of the Empire in 1806, Frankfurt! 
 together with Aschaffenburg, Hanau, Fulda and Wetzlar, was made over a) 
 a Grand-duchy to Carl von Dalberg, Primate of the Rhenish Confederation| 
 and formerly Archbishop of Mayence. By the Congress of Vienna it wail 
 finally recognized as a free city. 
 
 | 
 
 On entering the.town the first object which attracts thi 
 eye is the *Monument of Gutenberg, erected in 1858, ¢ 
 large galvano-plastic group with sandstone pedestal, a worl: 
 of great merit, executed by Ed. v. d. Launitz. The centra’ 
 figure with the types in the 1. hand represents Gutenberg, thai 
 on his r. Fust, and on his 1. Schéffer. On the frieze are 1y 
 likenesses of celebrated printers, Caxton among others. I 
 the four niches underneath are the arms of the four town) 
 where the art of printing was first principally practised 
 Mainz, Frankfurt, Venice, and Strasbourg. On four separat 
 pedestals are female figures emblematical of Theology, Poetry) 
 Natural History, and Industry. The heads of four animals) 
 which serve as water-spouts, represent the four quarters of th’ 
 globe and indicate the universal diffusion of the invention. I 
 the Junghofstr. in the vicinity is the * Permanent Exhibitio,, 
 of Art. i 
 In the “Allee” bounding the N. side of the town, th 
 *Wfonument of Goethe is a prominent object. The poet 1) 
 
 i 
 | 
 
| Romer. FRANKFURT. 39. Route. 159 
 
 | modern costume holds a wreath of laurel in his l. hand. The 
 (half-reliefs upon the pedestal are emblematic of Goethe’s 
 literary activity. In the front (S. side) are represented Natural 
 Science, Dramatic and Lyric Poetry; on the E. side Orestes 
 -and Thoas (Iphigenia), Faust and Mephistopheles; on the N. 
 'side to the r. Gotz von Berlichingen, Egmont, and Tasso, on 
 }the 1. the Bride of Corinth, the god and the bayadere, Pro- 
 »metheus, and the Erl-king with his child; on the W. side te 
 ‘the r. Mignon with Wilhelm Meister, and on the 1]. Hermann 
 ‘and Dorothea. 
 
 : The house in which Goethe was born (Pl. 16) is in the 
 /Hirschgraben, near the Rossmarkt, and has a tablet affixed 
 :to it with the inscription: Johann Wolfgany Goethe was born 
 jin this house on the 28th of August, 1749. The arms over 
 the door, three lyres placed obliquely and a star, were chosen 
 by Goethe’s father on his marriage with the daughter of the 
 ‘senator Textor, from their resemblance to a horse-shoe, the 
 grandfather of the poet having been a farrier by trade. In 
 the attics facing the court the poet lived in 17783—75, and 
 there his time was occupied with “Gétz” and “Werther”; 
 they were also the scene of those boyish exploits and more 
 serious adventures which render his biography so interesting. 
 The house has been recently purchased by a society (“‘deutsches 
 Hochstift”) and is being suitably restored. Entrance free. 
 
 Among edifices possessing an historical interest the 
 *“Roémer (Pl. 28) is entitled to the first mention. It was 
 purchased by the city for a Town-hall in 1405. The lower 
 part serves as a depot for merchandize during the fairs. 
 On the first floor is the *Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall), where 
 ‘the newly chosen emperor dined with his electors, and showed 
 himself from the balcony to the people assembled on the 
 Romerberg (p. 160). It was restored in 1840 and embellished 
 ‘with a series of portraits in oil of the emperors. This col 
 lection was formed at the expense of princes, societies, and 
 private individuals, to replace the miserable old frescoes which 
 formerly disfigured the walls. 
 
 From the Kaisersaal the visitor is conducted into the red- 
 tapestried Wahlzimmer (election-room), which has been left in 
 its original condition, and contains a portrait of Leopold II. 
 The senate now holds its meetings here. The allegorical and 
 urlesque ornaments which embellish the ceiling, as well as 
 ihe entire internal arrangements of the building, date from 1740. 
 
 One of the chief objects of interest preserved amongst the 
 archives in this collection is the celebrated Bull of the Em- 
 peror Charles IV., known as the “Golden Bull’, promulgated 
 at Nirnberg in 1306. It is considered by the Germans as the 
 
160 Route 39, ERANKEFURT. Rémerberg. 
 
 basis of many of their most highly prized political privileges. 
 “Bulla” was the name originally given to the little ornament 
 worn asa kind of amulet round the necks of the Roman| 
 youth, occasionally used as a seal. In course of time the 
 word was applied to the documents themselves, to which im-) 
 pressions of seals in gold, silver, and lead were appended, 
 and the imperious edicts issued from the Vatican, which have 
 sometimes shaken the world, came to be known as Bulls. 
 Golden Bulls are very rare, and those of silver even more so. 
 The British Museum possesses a fine series in lead. 
 
 The Rémerberg, or market-place in front of the Romer, 
 which up to the end of the last century no Jew was permitted 
 to enter, was the scene of those public rejoicings which Goethe 
 so admirably describes in his Life. 
 
 His masterly pen depicts to the life the glee of the people, when the 
 Hereditary Marshal rode up, according to the old custom, to a heap of oats 
 and filled a silver-handled measure with the grain for the supply of the im- 
 perial stables. The Hereditary Chamberlain next made his appearance with! 
 a basin, ewer and towel for the use of his imperial master. That part of 
 the ceremony performed, the Hereditary High -steward raised the popular 
 excitement to a still higher pitch; the dignitary rode through the crowd to 
 the large temporary kitchen erected in the square, and cut a slice from the 
 ox which was roasting whole on this festive occasion, and brought it back 
 in a silver dish for the use of the imperial table, It was now the turn ol 
 the Hereditary Cup-bearer to fetch from the fountain some of the wine with 
 which it flowed. The imperial table was thus supplied; upon this all eyes 
 were anxiously strained to catch a glimpse of the Hereditary Grand-treasurer 
 whose duty was to ride forth and scatter largesse among the people, anc 
 finally to throw amongst the eager crowd the richly embroidered purses 
 which had contained the coins, and which were suspended on each side o 
 his saddle in the place of pistol-holsters, The scrambling and jostling whicl| 
 now ensued afforded immense amusement to the spectators, but the scen¢ 
 did not reach its climax till the Emperor and his nobles retired from the 
 baleony, which was the signal for the commencement of the most unboundec 
 ebullitions of extravagance on the part of the populace. Finally a rush wa: 
 made upon the kitchen,which was speedily demolished, and a fierce onslaugh 
 commenced upon the roasting ox. 
 
 Behind the Romer is situated the Church of St. Paw 
 (Pl. 22), a circular building completed in 1833 in the new 
 Romanesque style, which served in 1848-9 as the session’ 
 house for the “German National Assembly for remodelling th« 
 Constitution,” but was again fitted up as a place of worshiy 
 in 1852. : 
 
 Opposite to this church is the Bérse (Exchange) (Pl. 3) 
 erected in 1844 after the designs of Sti/er in the round-arch 
 style. The building is of grey sandstone with intermediati 
 layers of red. Two statues, “Hope” by Wendelstatt, an¢ 
 “Prndence” by Zwerger, adorn the E. side. Those on the W: 
 side are emblematical of Commerce by sea and by land, and 
 between them are represented Europe, Asia, Africa, Americ! 
 and Australia, executed by Launitz and Zwerger. The hal 
 
 of the exchange is in the old Indian style. From eight blael 
 
 | 
 ‘ 
 
i 
 i 
 
 ein: FRANKFURT. 39. Route 161 
 
 marble pillars project eight white fan-like roofs, ornamented 
 with painted bas-reliefs, and terminating at the top in large 
 gilded rosettes. A considerable portion of the mercantile 
 ‘community of Frankfurt assembles here daily from 12 to 2 
 o’clock, the most animated time being about 1, when the tu- 
 mult of business attains its highest pitch. 
 
 The S. side of the Roémerberg is bounded by the Gothic 
 Nicolaikirche (PI, 21), a small but elegant structure belonging 
 io the 13th cent., restored in 1847. The altar-piece, executed 
 by Rethel, represents the Resurrection. 
 
 A few steps southwards from the Romerberg lead the 
 
 traveller to the Saalhof (PJ. 29), a gloomy building of 1717, 
 situated on the Main, the old chapel of which, lately restored, 
 s said to have formed a portion of the ancient palace of the 
 Jarlovingian kings. The site of the latter, on the river, a 
 ittle below this spot, was in 1200 occupied by a chapel of 
 ihe Virgin, converted in 1219 into the Rom. Cath. church of 
 $t. Leonhard; the Gothic choir of 1434 was restored in 
 1808. On the spire may still be seen the imperial eagle, be- 
 ‘towed by Louis the Bavarian in acknowledgment of. ser- 
 tices rendered to him in defiance of the papal ban. In the 
 thapel on the r. by the choir is an altar-piece representing 
 he liberation of St. Leonhard, painted in 1813 by the Bava- 
 jian court-painter Stieler, and presented to the church by Carl 
 ‘on Dalberg. 
 _. Retracing his’ steps to the Rémerberg, and turning east- 
 vards, the traveller soon reaches the (Rom. Cath.) *Dom 
 St. Bartholomaus. Pl. 8). It was founded in 1238, the choir 
 rected in 1315—18, and the tower (260 ft.), which is still 
 finished, in 1415—1512 (admission 6 kr.). The church was 
 restored in 1855, and all the sculpture painted and gilt. En- 
 ance on the N. side. On the wall to the right are tomb- 
 tones of the families of Holzhausen and Sachsenhausen, 
 questrian effigies of the 14th cent. At the high-altar the 
 eremony of the coronation of the emperors was performed 
 ‘y the Elector of Mayence. To the r. is the Wahlkapelle 
 alection-chapel), where the electors held their final deliberation, 
 't the entrance to which stands the beautiful monument to 
 ae German king, Count Ginther von Schwarzburg, who died 
 ¢ Frankfurt in 1349, where he had taken refuge from his op- 
 ‘onent Charles IV. The 18 coats of arms on the border 
 elong to the families who erected the monument. The ori- 
 ‘inal inscription is in old German, and the new one in Latin. 
 ‘he wall paintings are of 1427, renovated in 1856. The 
 igh-altar-piece (by Veit, 1851) represents the coronation of 
 ve Virgin. The sacristy to the 1]. contains a Descent from 
 BAEDEKER’S Rhine. 11 
 
162 Route 39. FRANKFURT. Bridge. 
 
 the Cross, attributed to Durer; and a Holy Family, to Rubens. | 
 
 In the chapel on the r. by the choir is a Sepulchre with the 
 
 sleeping watchmen underneath, an old sculpture of the 13th 
 cent.; next to it is an altar-piece representing St. Bartholomaus, 
 and a small painting (by Roose) of the Adoration of the Magi. 
 The cathedral is generally open till 12 o’clock, but visitors 
 
 are prohibited from walking about during divine service. If 
 the doors are closed, admission may be obtained by ringing 
 at the N. portal (fee 9 kr.; for a party 24 kr.). 
 
 On a corner house opposite to the E. side of the cathedral 
 is an old stone effigy of Luther with an inscription. The 
 great reformer is said to have addressed the people from this 
 house, when on his journey to Worms (p. 198). 
 
 The churches of St. Catherine (Pl. 19), the Liebfrawenkirche 
 (Pl. 20), and others, contain no objects of interest. 
 
 To the S. E. of the cathedral is the handsome old Bridge 
 over the Main, built of red sandstone in the year 1340. The 
 railroad under the first arch connects the E. and W. railway- 
 stations. In the middle of the bridge a statue of Charlemagne, 
 executed in red sandstone by Wendelstatt and Zwerger, was 
 erected in 1844. Near it a cock is seen perched on an iron 
 pole. According to an old tradition, the architect vowed that 
 the first living being which crossed the bridge should be sa 
 crificed to the devil, and a hapless cock became the victim, 
 On the restoration of the bridge in 1740 the architect indulged 
 his exuberant fancy by placing grotesque stone carvings oI 
 the W. parapet on the Sachsenhausen side; they represent tw 
 artillerymen loading a gun, and beyond them the river-go¢ 
 Moenus. : 
 
 Beyond the bridge lies Sachsenhausen, a suburb of Frank 
 furt, chiefly inhabited by gardeners and vintners. It wai 
 founded by Charlemagne, who assigned it as a residence fo: 
 the more unruly of the conquered Saxons, from whom thi 
 place derives its name. To the 1., on the Main, is seen the 
 Deutsch-Ordenshaus (P1. 14), or House of the Teutonic Orde 
 (erected 1709). It is with the church the property of the Archi 
 duke Maximilian, the Grand-master of the Order, and is nov 
 employed as a barrack for the Bavarian troops. 
 
 On the r. bank of the Main is a row of large barrack-lik 
 houses called Zur schénen Aussicht, at the upper end of whiel 
 is situated the Town-library (Pl. 2) with the inscription 
 
 Studiis libertati reddita civitas. The entrance hall contains | 
 *marble statue of Goethe in a sitting posture, executed b 
 P. Marchesi of Milan in 1838, and presented to the librar 
 by three citizens of Frankfurt. Prehn’s Picture-gallery (‘Tues 
 and Thurs. 10—12) contains 855 small pictures, most of ther 
 
 | 
 
Judengasse. FRANKFURT. 39, Route. 163 
 
 copies. The library itself (72,000 vols.) in the upper rooms 
 contains many literary curiosities, as well as several Egyptian, 
 Greek, Roman and German antiquities. 
 
 | Behind the library is situated the Fremden- Hospital (P|. 15), 
 or Strangers’ Hospital, destined for the reception of servants 
 and journeymen; near it is the old Jewish Burial-place and 
 Jews’ Hospital, founded by the Rothschild family in 1830, at 
 the entrance to the dark and narrow Judengasse (Jews’ 
 street) with its gloomy, dirty and antiquated houses, its nu- 
 |merous passages and brokers’ shops. 
 
 As early as the 12th cent. many Jews settled in Frankfurt, 
 ‘but on account of the tyrannical treatment to which they were 
 
 subjected they founded the above mentioned street in 1462, 
 ‘where till 1806 the whole community lived. In the evening, 
 and on Sundays and holidays, this street was closed with 
 gates and bars, and no Jew ventured into any part of the 
 ‘town under a heavy penalty. In spite of this tyrannical and 
 -Oppressive treatment, many of the denizens of these unwhole- 
 some purlieus flourished, and among them the now enormously 
 opulent family of Rothschild. Their offices are now in a 
 _eorner house between the Zeil and the Judengasse, not far 
 ‘from the beautiful new Synagogue (PJ. 33), built in the oriental 
 istyle in 1855. 
 
 In a N. W. direction from the new synagogue is situated 
 ithe *Zeil, the finest street in Frankfurt, consisting almost ex- 
 
 (clusively of handsome shops and warehouses, and bounded at 
 »the W. end by the Hauptwache (chief guard-house), and at 
 |the E. by the Police-station. 
 
 __ To the rear of the Hauptwache, in the Schiller (formerly 
 Parade) Platz, stands Schiller’s Monument, erected in 1864. 
 
 Opposite to the Police-station, to the Ny W., is the Schafer- 
 gasse, in which the Old Churchyard is situated, where, to the 
 TY. on entering, the tombstone of Goethe’s mother may be 
 ‘seen, as well as many others of eminent persons. 
 
 In front of the Friedberger Thor stands the Hessian 
 ‘Monument, erected by Frederick William II. of Prussia ‘to 
 ‘the memory of the brave Hessians who fell victorious on this 
 spot, December 2nd, 1792, fighting for their fatherland.” It 
 ‘consists of masses of rock heaped together, on which a pillar 
 ‘stands, surmounted by a helmet, sword, and a ram’s head, the 
 latter being emblematical of the attack made by the Hessians 
 on Frankfurt, at that time occupied by the French under 
 Custine. On the sides are brazen tablets recording the names 
 ‘of the fallen, and a Latin inscription announcing that the 
 monument was erected by Fred. William, King of Prussia, 
 “the admiring witness of their bravery.” 
 
 Er 
 
164 Route 39. FRANKFURT. Cemetery. | 
 
 On the opposite side of the road is situated the * Ariad- | 
 neum, or Bethmann’s Museum (Pl. 1; admission see p. 157), a | 
 circular building lighted from the top, containing amongst 
 various objects of art Dannecker’s exquisite group of *Ariadne 
 on the panther, the artist’s master-piece, and deservedly the 
 pride and boast of Frankfurt. The casts in the museum of | 
 Achilles, Silenus with the young Bacchus, Germanicus, the 
 Gladiator, Laocoon, Apollo Belvedere, Venus de Medici, and 
 Diana of Versailles, are all taken from the original antiques. 
 Here are also preserved casts of the features of the Emperor 
 Nicholas and the Prince Lichnowsky, who was brutally mur- 
 dered near this spot during the revolution of 1848. 
 
 The road to the l. of the Hessian monument leads to the | 
 new *Cemetery, about ¥/, M. distant, where the remains of | 
 many celebrities of modern times are interred. It contains 
 numerous well executed monuments and tombstones, among | 
 which may be mentioned the vault of the von Bethmann family | 
 (E. side farthest to the lL), which contains an admirable bas- | 
 relief by Thorwaldsen, executed at an expense of 34,000 fl, | 
 to the memory of a member of the family, who died in con- j 
 sequence of his exertions in rescuing a boy from drowning | 
 in the Arno at Florence. The vault being closed, visitors } 
 must apply to the sexton, who lives at the gate (fee 30 kr.). | 
 Near it is a monument to another member of the same family, | 
 a well executed marble relief representing the angel announcing } 
 the resurrection to the women. | 
 
 On the N. side of the cemetery a new burial-ground was 
 laid out in 1845, near the middle of which stands a monu- ( 
 ment “to those who fell on Sept. 18th, 1848.” Among the} 
 names recorded on its white marble tablets is that of the | 
 murdered Prince Lichnowsky. At the W. end of the en-] 
 closure are interred about 30 of those who fell at the barri- i, 
 cades on the same occasion; their graves are marked by 
 crosses and inscriptions. Near the latter is a large Temple,) 
 erected by the Elector William II. (d. 1847) to his consort, | 
 the Countess Reichenbach. The S. E. side of the cemetery| 
 is bounded by the burying-ground of the Jewish community I 
 (open on Tues. and Thurs. afternoons). i 
 
 If the traveller now retrace his steps, enter the publie | 
 walks (p. 158), which occupy the place of the old fortifications, |: 
 and turn to the r., be will reach the Eschenhewmer Thor, the) 
 only gate which has preserved intact its ancient exterior. In} 
 the immediate vicinity are the buildings of the Senckenberg 
 Society (Pl. 30; adm. see p. 157), which comprise a hospital, } 
 anatomical theatre, botanical garden, and contain a considerable’ 
 collection of natural curiosities, the most valuable of which) 
 
 oe 
 
 ‘| 
 
 , 
 i 
 
_ Stddel Gallery. FRANKFURT. 39. Route. 165 
 
 are those brought by the traveller Riippel from Egypt, Nubia, 
 Abyssinia, and the Red Sea. 
 
 The large house adjoining the above-mentioned buildings 
 was the residence of the Archduke John in 1848-9, in his 
 capacity of Regent of the Empire, and is now the property 
 of the Burgerverein (citizen’s club) (Pl. 4), to which strangers 
 ‘nay be introduced by a member. The entrance hall contains 
 a good copy of a celebrated portrait of Goethe by Tischbein, 
 /The Palace of the Prince of Thurn and Taxis (PI. 36) in the 
 Same street, where the Diet now holds its sessions, may be 
 recognized by the sentinels posted at the gates. 
 
 One of the handsomest buildings in the town is the new 
 \Saalbau, erected by the “Deutsches Hochstift” and containing 
 spacious concert and assembly rooms. — The new Lunatic 
 Asylum, on the Eschenheimer road, merits the inspection of pro- 
 fessional men. 
 
 The institution to which Frankfurt is perhaps most in- 
 lebted for its reputation as a cradle of the fine arts is the 
 “Stadel Art-institute (Pl. 31; adm. see p. 157) in the 
 Mainzer Strasse, near the railway stations. It was founded 
 xy a citizen of Frankfurt, Joh. Fred. Stddel (d. 1816), who 
 pequeathed his collection of pictures and engravings, his 
 “louses and a sum of 1,200,000 florins (100,000/.) to the 
 own, for the purpose of founding a School of Art. The 
 atter is frequented by about 200 students, and was formerly 
 ‘mder the management of Veit, now under that of Pas- 
 avant and Steinle. The collection consists of pictures, 30,000 
 /mgravings, and drawings by eminent masters, as well as many 
 »xcellent casts, and is valued at 480,000 fl. (40,000/.). The 
 jallery is adorned with many valuable productions of the old 
 jagasters, especially those acquired since the death of the 
 /ounder, but the institution is more particularly celebrated 
 /or its collection of works by modern artists, which is second 
 0 none in the Rhenish cities. 
 
 * *Stadel Gallery (adm. see p. 157). Catalogues for the use of the public 
 
 ji all the rooms. Entrance hall: Coloured engravings from Raphael's 
 i aintings in the Vaticau at Rome: sketch by Cornelius of the Last Judgment, 
 i€ original of the fresco in the Ludwigskirche at Munich. 
 
 Ist Room, beginning on the r., Italian School: (N,) 29. Mars and Venus, 
 Vy. Paolo Veronese. (W.) 22. Portrait. by Sebastiano del Piombo; 25. * Four 
 
 Wriests at the throne of the Virgin, by Moretto, purchased in 1847 for 
 4,000 fl. (S.) 36. Mary and Child adored by the infaut John, by Perugino. 
 
 13.) 24. Mary and Child, St. Sebastian, and’ St. Anthony, by Moretto; *28. 
 \ortrait of the Doge M. Antonio Memmo by TZintoretto. (N.) 42, Mary with 
 john the Baptist and St. Sebastian, by Znnocenzio da Imola. é 
 
 » 2nd Room contains chiefly pictures by modern artists; the following 
 *e the most remarkable: (N.) 332. Ezzelin in prison after the battle of Cas- 
 mo in 1259 exhorted to repentance by monks, by Lessing; 332. Alpine scene, 
 Sy Funk; 326, The Tiburtinian Sibyl, by Stetnle; 336, Daniel in the lions’ 
 yen, by Rethel; 341. Lake scene, by Pose. (E.) 334. Landscape scene, house 
 
 — 
 
 ————E~ 
 
166 Route 39. FRANKFURT. 
 
 in flames, by Lessing; *331. Huss before the Council of Constance, in the 
 background Count Chlum, the friend of the reformer, a large picture occu- 
 pying almost the entire E. wall, by Lessing; 333. Wood landscape, by Les- 
 sing; 349. Sheepfold, by Verboeckhoven; 339. Storm at sea on the Norwegian 
 coast, by Achenbach. (N.) 347 (above the door). Norwegian mountain scene, 
 
 by Saal. 
 3rd Room. * Overbeck’s celebrated picture of the Triumph of religion 
 
 in the arts occupies the entire E. wall. Being a most elaborate work, and | 
 replete with portraits of eminent persons it must be studied with the aid of | 
 
 the catalogue. (N.) 67. Scenes from the life of John the Baptist, by a pupil 
 
 of Roger of Bruges. (W.) 102. Father with sick child, by Holbein the | 
 
 Younger. (S.) 106. Durer’s portrait of his father; 106, Portrait, by Durer. 
 Fresco Room: (N.) 357. The arts introduced into Germany by Chris- 
 
 tianity, by Veit. Casts of the bronze doors of the Baptistery at Florence 
 
 (which Mich, Angelo said deserved to be the gates of Paradise). 
 4th. Room contains principally Dutch pictures of no great value. (E.) 
 
 122. Child sitting on a stool, by Rubens. (N.) 146. Portrait, by Rembrandt. | 
 
 (S.) 124. Portrait, by Van Dyck. (W.) 145. Portrait, by Rembrandt. — The | 
 
 ist room in the wing of the building contains smaller pictures by older | 
 
 Frankfurt artists, and some Dutch pictures. 2nd Room; 330. The wise and _ 
 foolish virgins, by Schadow; 335. Job and his friends, by Hubner; drawings | 
 
 of Steinles “Sermon on the mount’ in the chapel of Rheineck CR. 18); 
 scenes from Dante, Ariosto, &c, by Schnorr. 
 
 The *Zoological Garden (adm. see p. 157) is situated 
 on the Bockenheimer road, about 1/4, M. from the gate. The 
 
 grounds are tastefully laid out, and contain a valuable col-, 
 
 lection of animals, birds, &c. 
 
 40. From Frankfurt to Mayence and 
 Wiesbaden. | 
 
 Taunus Railway. Excursion to the Taunus. 
 
 By Railway to Castel (Mayence) in 1 hr.; to Wiesbaden in 1'/, hir.,) 
 
 Fares to Mayence 1 fl. 48, 11.9, 42 kr.; to Wiesbaden 2 fl. 15, 1 fl. 24, 
 
 and 51 kr. Views on the r. Omnibus &c, see p. AES 
 
 Since the completion (1862) of the railway-bridge at Ma- 
 
 yence, the most direct route (in 1 hr.; fares 1 fl. 54, 1 fl. 
 12, 45 kr.) to Mayence is by the Hessian-Ludwig railway, via 
 Niederrad, the Forsthaus, with wood-walks, a favorite resort 
 of the Frankfurters, Schwanheim, Keltersbach, Raunheim, Riissels- 
 heim and Bischoffsheim; before entering the last of these sta- 
 tions the line unites with the Mayence- Darmstadt railway} 
 comp. p. 172. | 
 
 The Taunus railway is one of the oldest in Germany, 
 having been opened in 1838. Immediately on leaving the 
 town the train passes the Gallenwarte, one of the towers 
 which mark the territory of Frankfurt. Beyond Bockenheim 
 the Nidda, often mentioned in the history of the French re- 
 volutionary war, is crossed, and. the busy little Nassovian 
 town of Héchst is reached. The church of St. Justinus at 
 the latter place is interesting in an architectural point of 
 view. It was built in 1090 in the form of a piazza, the Go- 
 
 | 
 
HATTERSHEIM. 40. Route, 167 
 
 thic choir added in 1443. By a branch railway from Hochst 
 to Soden (p. 169) in 12 min.; fares: 30, 18, 12 kr. 
 
 _ Stat. Hattersheim. As the train proceeds, a good view 
 
 on the N. side is obtained of the principal peaks of the Tau- 
 nus, the Altkonig, behind it to the r. the Great Feldberg, and 
 to the |. the Little Feldbery (p. 169). The Hofheimer Chapel, 
 much visited by pilgrims, is also a conspicuous object in the 
 landscape. 
 
 Near Florsheim, to the r., are situated the handsome 
 ouildings of the watering-place of Weilbach (sulphur-springs). 
 A pleasing view may be obtained by ascending the “Kanzel” 
 (pulpit), a hill surmounted by four trees, /, M. above Dieden- 
 vergen, and 3 M. to the N. of Weilbach. To the N. are seen 
 the peaks of the Taunus, to the S. the Melibocus, to the 
 5.W. the Donnersberg, a part of the Rheingau, and then the 
 owns of Frankfurt, Worms, Oppenheim, and Mayence; to the 
 N. W. are Johannisberg and the towers of Geisenheim. 
 
 The line now traverses the foot of the long range of vine- 
 tlad hills of Hochheim (Schwan), where, in the best vine- 
 yards, each plant is not unfrequently valued at a ducat (9s. 6d.). 
 The most potent wine is yielded by the vineyards surrounding 
 the old Domdechunei (deanery), now a shooting-box of the 
 Juke of Nassau. At the point where the vineyards of Hoch- 
 1eim begin, stands (close to the line on the r.) a monument 
 n the English-Gothic style, bearing the inscription “Kénigin- 
 Vietoria- Berg” (Victoria-Vineyard) in gold letters, and the 
 Mglish arms in silver, erected by the owner, a speculative 
 vine merchant of Mayence, to attract the attention of English 
 ravellers. 
 
 __ On entering Castel (p. 145) the line intersects the fortifi- 
 vations. Station near the Rhine bridge. Omnibus to Mayence, 
 vithout luggage, 18 kr.; carriage for 1 person 30, for 2 pers. 
 6, for 3 pers. 42, and for 4 pers. 50 kr.; each box 6 kr.; 
 MM these fares include bridge-toll. A steam ferry-boat plies 
 yetween Castel and Mayence (fares: 4 and 2 kr.), on the ar- 
 ‘val of each train. (Tickets for the Taunus line can be pro- 
 ured at the Mayence booking-office). Porterage from railway- 
 tation to steamboat: each box 6 kr., travelling-bag 3 kr.; 
 Tom station to carriage 3 kr. for each package, no charge 
 jade if the vehicle belong to Castel; from Custel to Mayence, 
 or each box 10 kr., travelling-bag 6 kr., several smaller 
 
 vackages together 10 kr.; bridge-toll (2 kr.) is extra. 
 
 _ The train again intersects the fortifications of Castel, and 
 eaving Fort Montebello on the 1|., stops near Biebrich (see 
 . 137), and a few minutes later at Wiesbaden (see R. 37). 
 
168 Route 40. KCENIGSTEIN. From Frankfurt, 
 
 The station (adjoining that of the so-called Right-Rhenish line, 
 in contradistinction to the older Rhenish, now Left-Rhemsh 
 railway) is at the extremity of the Wahelmsstrasse, which 
 
 consists of new and spacious residences on the |. and an 
 avenue on the r., and terminates in the square in front of the | 
 
 Cursaal. 
 Excursion to the Taunus. 
 A pedestrian may in two days visit the finest points of this fertile 
 
 district. Leaving the train at Hattersheim, he should first visit Hofheim 
 
 (2'/, M.), inspect the chapel ('/, hr.), and then proceed to Eppstein (5!/, M.) 
 and its castle; next to Adnigstein (5 M.); in the evening to the castle and 
 the Falkenstein (or with guide from Eppstein to the Rossert and Konigstein, 
 7 M.). — Early next morning the traveller should walk to the summit of the 
 Great Feldberg (5 M.) by the smaller mountain of the same name; then to 
 the Altkénig (3 M.), and back to Kénigstein (3'/, M.); dine; and in the after- 
 
 noon walk to Soden, about 3 M. distant, and there take the train to Frank-— 
 
 furt (f/f hr.). — A third day may be well employed in walking from 
 Soden to Cronthal, Cronberg, Ober-Ursel, Homburg, a distance of about 
 10 M.; thence to Bonames, and by rail to Frankfurt. Even in half a day 
 a glimpse of this mountainous district may be obtained by starting from 
 
 Frankfurt immediately after an early dinner, and proceeding by rail to Soden | 
 
 ('/, hr.), visit the grounds and bath-establishment, ascend the Cronberg (1 hr.), 
 take coffee at the Schiitzenhof under the chesnut trees, visit the *castle, and, 
 
 leaving the latter on the N. side, proceed to Falkenstein (2 M.), the keys of | 
 
 which are kept in the village at the foot of the hill; walk to Konigstein 
 (3/, M.); thence on foot or by omnibus to Soden, and by train to Lrankfurt 
 in 14 hr. 
 
 The road from stat. Hattersheim (*Nassauer Hof) on the 
 
 Taunus line to Hofheim is destitute of shade, but the view | 
 
 from the Chapel (p. 167) well repays the ascent. 
 
 The road through the Lorsbacher Valley to Eppstein passes : 
 
 through luxuriant meadows, carpeted with flowers, enclosed 
 by shady slopes, and watered by the rapid Schwarzbach. At 
 
 the extremity of the valley, above the old village of Eppstein, | 
 
 the castle of the same name is seen situated on a precipitous 
 
 rock. It was in ancient times the seat of a powerful family, | 
 which numbered among its members five archbishops and | 
 
 | 
 
 electors of Mayence between the years 1059— 1284. The 
 Protestant church contains several monuments of the family, | 
 which became extinct in 1535. The castle is now in private. 
 hands, and the grounds connected with it are tastefully laid 
 out. Near Eppstein is the inn Zur Oelmuhle, charges as in | 
 
 Frankfurt. 
 
 The * Rossert (1563 ft.) may be ascended best from the Eppstein side, and_ 
 
 affords a fine prospect of the valleys of the Rhine and Main, 
 
 The road from Eppstein to Koénigstein leads through @ 
 picturesque mountain ravine to Fischbach (1 M.) after which 
 it crosses a high table-land as far as Schneidhain (2 M.), and 
 then ascends to Keenigstein (* Lowe), 11/, M. farther. Above 
 
 the village are the ruins of the fortress of the same name | 
 
 (1321 ft.), demolished by the French in 1596. From 1581 it 
 
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 ‘to Mayence. GREAT FELDBERG. 40. Route. 169 
 
 belonged to the electors of Mayence, whose arms may still 
 be seen above the entrance. After the re-capture of Mayence 
 in 1753 (R. 31), the castle was employed as a state-prison. 
 The platform affords a similar *view to that from the Fal- 
 kenstein (see below). The Duke of Nassau possesses a hand- 
 some villa in the vicinity. Hydropathic estab. Omnibus to 
 Soden see p. 168; diligence to Héchst 3 times daily. 
 
 About 11/4, M. to the E., the ruined castle of Falkenstein 
 (1592 ft.) crowns the summit of a well wooded hill, and com- 
 mands a fine view. It was the family possession of the power- 
 ‘ul archbishop Kuno of Treves (R. 40), and was built at the 
 zommencement of the 13th cent, 
 
 Guide to the Feldberg 40 kr.; donkey with guide 1 fl. 12 kr., 
 yr, including the castle of Falkenstein, 1 fl. 24 kr. (The ser- 
 fices of a guide may however be easily dispensed with). 
 About 1//, M. from Koénigstein the pedestrian must leave the 
 frankfurt and Limburg road, and turn to the r., cross the 
 little Feldberg (2547 ft.), about 1 hour’s walk, and in WY ohr. 
 more the *Great Feldberg (2708 ft.) is reached, It is the 
 tighest peak of the Taunus; the summit consists of quartzose 
 ock, and the slopes of tale and clay-slate. In fine weather 
 he view from the top is very extensive; it comprehends the 
 thine and the Main to the E. as far as the Inselsberg, the 
 thongebirge, and Spessart; to the S. Melibocus, Kénigsstuhl, 
 fercurius near Baden, and the Vosges; to the W. the Don- 
 ersberg, Hunnsrick, and the mountains of the Moselle; to 
 he N. the Seven Mountains and those of Westphalia. Re- 
 reshments and if need be, a night’s lodging may be procured 
 t the “Feldberghaus.” The block of quartz which crowns 
 ae summit is mentioned in an old document as early as 812, 
 nder the name of Brunhildenstein. A triangular stone placed 
 ere indicates the frontiers of Nassau, Frankfurt, and Hessen- 
 fomburg. On the declivity the ruin of Ober- Reiffenbery is 
 ituated. (From the Feldberg to Homburg with guide in 3 hrs.) 
 
 The Altkénig (2428 ft.) is 1%, hour’s walk to the N. of 
 ve Great Feldberg. The ascent is somewhat fatiguing, but 
 ossesses considerable interest for the antiquarian, The sum- 
 ut is surrounded by a gigantic double wall, constructed of 
 dose stones, erroneously ascribed to the Romans, but more 
 obably erected by the ancient inhabitants of the country as 
 
 place of refuge in time of war. The higher of the walls 
 'in a good state of preservation. 
 
 A good road descends S. from Koénigstein to Soden (* Hotel 
 ranz near the Curhaus; * Europ. Hof, hotel and bath-estab.; 
 vankfurter Hof, a quiet house; Holland. Hof; Hotel garni zum 
 tolzenfels), 3°/, M. distant. It is a flourishing little watering- 
 
 ; 
 
170 Route 40. CRONBERG. 
 
 place (3000 patients annually) with handsome Curhaus and 
 tastefully-arranged gardens and grounds. The villas in the 
 environs, most of them in the Swiss style, belong to citizens 
 of Frankfurt. Omnibus between Kénigstein and Soden in the 
 morning only; diligence between Soden and Konigstein 3 
 times daily in 35 min., fare 18 kr.; between Hochst and 
 Kénigstein 3 times daily, fare 35 kr. Railway between Soden 
 and Hochst see p. 168. 
 
 About 2 M.to the E. of Konigstein is situated the Cron- 
 berg (*Schiitzenhof), celebrated for the productiveness of its 
 erchards. The castle above the town, a ruin of considerable 
 extent, commands a magnificent *view of the surrounding 
 mountains and plain; it well repays the ascent to the summit | 
 of the tower, which is accomplished by 132 wooden steps | 
 (the adventurous scrambler may reach the highest point of the 
 belfry by means of a ladder). Konigsberg, or Cronberg, being | 
 both situated in the heart of the Taunus, are the best head- 
 quarters for pedestrians who desire to become better acquainted 
 with this beautiful mountain district. Omnibus 3 times 
 daily to Weisskirchen, stat. on the Homburg railway. The 
 mineral baths of Cronthal (11/, M. to the S.), now little fre- 
 quented, are delightfully situated in the midst of a chesnut 
 grove, and are noted for the salubrity of the air. Rooms 6 fl. 
 and upwards per week; table d’héte 42 kr. | 
 
 About 10 M. to the E. of Kénigstein or Soden lies Hom- | 
 burg (Four Seasons, Russian, English, Imperial, and Hessian, 
 Hotels), the capital of the Landgrafschaft of Hessen-Homburg, 
 and of late years a much frequented watering-place (average | 
 annual number of visitors 8000). It is situated on one of the | 
 hills at the foot of the Great Feldberg, and is, independently ) 
 of the baths, a place of no importance. The activity of the 
 place is almost entirely centred in the *Curhaus and avenues | 
 which lead to the chalybeate springs, °/, M. distant. 
 
 The palace of the Landgrave of Hessen-Homburg is situated | 
 here, but, with the exception of some family portraits and a) 
 small collection of Roman relics found at the Saalburg, con-) 
 tains nothing worthy of note. 
 
 For the antiquarian, the Saalburg is an object of considerable interest. | 
 It is the remnant of an old Roman fort, situated on a wooded ridge of the) 
 Taunus (1304 ft.), about 5 M. to the N. of Homburg, a few hundred yds. to ) 
 the 1. of the road to Usingen. It belonged to the extensive line of fortifi- | 
 eations, known under the name of Limes imp. Rom., which protected the | 
 Roman possessions from the incursions of the Germans, and was undoubtedly | 
 built by Germanicus to replace that erected by Drusus, destroyed a.D. 9, after | 
 the defeat of Varus (posito castello super vestigia paterni praesidii in, 
 monte Tauno expeditum exercitum in Cattos rapit. Taciti Annal. I, 36)a)| 
 Ptolemy mentions it as Arctawnon. It consists of a square, 705 ft. by 465 ft., | 
 with rounded corners, and surrounded by two deep fosses. In the centre) 
 stands the Pretorium, 153 ft. by 132 ft., with foundations of sandstone; | 
 
 | 
 } 
 
DARMSTADT. 41. Route. 171 
 
 1ere are also two Jarge blocks of sandstone forming the pedestal of a large 
 wronze statue, traces of which were found among the ruins some years ago. 
 
 By railway from Homburg to Frankfurt in */4 hr.; fares 
 i fl., 36 kr., 21. kr. 
 
 41. From Frankfurt to Heidelberg. 
 
 Main-Neckar line, Station to the S. of the Taunus station (p. 157). 
 
 ‘o Darmstadt in '/, hr., to Heidelberg in 2 hrs. more. Fares to Darmstadt 
 
 fl. 6, 42, and 30 kr.; to Heidelberg 3 fl. 33, 2 fl. 21, and 1 A. 33 kr.; to 
 
 fanuheim in the same time and at the same fares as to Heidelberg. Exp. 
 
 tains dearer. Omnibus &c. see p, 32. The seats on the E. (left) side of 
 he train should be selected for the sake of the view. 
 
 As soon as the train has crossed the Main bridge, it di- 
 verges to the 1. on the Offenbach branch, and passes (1.) the 
 astle-like farm-house of Herr von Bethmann. The country 
 retween Frankfurt and Darmstadt presents few features of 
 nterest. 
 
 Darmstadt (* Traube, R. and A. 1 fl. 6, B. 36 kr.; Darm- 
 tddter Hof; Hotel Kohler, the nearest to the station; * Alte 
 ost, opp. to the Palace; *Stengel’s Café, opp. to the stat.), 
 he capital and residence of the court of the Grand-duchy of 
 lessen, with a pop. of 32,000 (2500 Rom. Cath.), was up to 
 he close of the 18th cent. the capital of the Grafschaft 
 f Katzenelnbogen, and a place of no importance. The 
 xrand-duke Ludwig I. (d. 1830) erected the new part of 
 he town with its broad streets and handsome houses, and to 
 ‘im alone Darmstadt is indebted for its present prosperity. 
 mn 1844 the Ludwigsdenkmal was erected by his “grateful 
 eople” to the memory of this prince. The summit of the 
 olumn (fee 18 kr.) commands a good view of the town and 
 ss environs, but the surrounding country is flat and unin- 
 resting. 
 
 The Schloss, the greater part of which was erected about 
 ne middle of the last century, is situated at the extremity of 
 ‘te Rheinstrasse, which leads from the station into the town. 
 t contains a valuable Library of 200,000 vols. as well as 
 ome MSS. and typographical curiosities (open to the public 
 /—12 a, m. and 2—4 p.m.). The collections of pictures, 
 elics, costumes, coins, &c. are open on Tues., Thurs., and 
 vund. 10—12; admission at other times may be procured for 
 
 fee of 1 fi. 
 
 The * Picture-gallery, in the upper story of the palace, contains about 
 ‘0 paintings, many of them of considerable value. 1st Room. 79. The 
 vastle of Heidelberg, by Schirmer; 666. Sunset, by Lessing. — 2nd Room. 
 |W.) unnumbered: Landscape, by Chr. Morgenstern; The treachery of Judas, 
 ‘y ©. H. Hoffmann.— 3rd Room, Old German School: 136. The dying 
 lary, by Schoreel. (N.) 201. Portrait, by Holbein. (E.) 672. Madonna, by 
 lemling.—4th Room. Dutch pictures: 678. Portrait of the painter Erasmus 
 juellyn, by Van Dyck; 419. Christ scourged, by Rembrandt. (W.) 284. 
 
172 Route 41. ZWINGENBERG. From Frankfurt | 
 Nymphs of Diana returning from the chase, by Rembrandt; the nymph with} 
 the red robe is a portrait of the painter’s first, and the nymph with the 
 hares of his second wife; 686. Portrait, by Van Dyck.— 5th Room. 691,)| 
 692, Portraits by Van Dyck; 366. Portrait, by Rembrandt of his second) 
 wife.— 6th Room, (N.) 420. Portrait, by Van der Heist; 271. Woman) 
 combing a boy’s hair, by Rembrandt; 415. Madonna, by Van Dyck. — 7th} 
 Room. French pictures of no great value. —8th Room. (N.) 558. Sleeping | 
 Venus, by Titian. —9th Room. 594, Carthusian monk, by Titian; 572. St. 
 Michael, by Raphael; 573, Peter’s denial, by Domenichino; 980. Portrait by! 
 Titian. (.) 592. St. Franciscus, by Gwercino; 628, Sketches of the “Mar-! 
 riage at Cana” in the Louvre, by Paolo Veronese. (N.) St. John, by Ra-} 
 phael. — The adjoining room contains a cabinet of natural history, with a} 
 valuable collection of fossils and skeletons of antediluvian animals, among] 
 others that of a mastodon, found at Eppelsheim, in Rhenish Hessen. ) 
 
 In the middle story; Ist Room. Roman antiquities. * Mosaic pave-| 
 ment of a Roman bath, dug up at Vilbel in 1849. — 2nd Room, Carved ivory| 
 and alabaster ornaments, coins, &c,— 3rd Room. Armour and weapons. —| 
 
 4th Room. Model of the Schloss, ancient costumes, &¢.— 5th Room. Drawings] 
 and engravings. 
 “It ig not saying too much to assert that masterpieces of art, and curi-} 
 
 osities of all countries and all ages are here to be met with.” Goethe, 1814.) 
 To the N. of the Palace is the Herrengarten, consisting of| 
 public grounds and walks. To the r. on entering it is the! 
 Theatre, and to the 1. the Exercierhaus, now a military maga-| 
 zine. Between these two buildings are erected statues of the! 
 Landgrave Philip the Generous (d. 1567) and his son George I, 
 (d. 1590), the founder of the Grand-ducal family. In the| 
 Herrenyarten to the r. is a mound railed in and surrounded 
 by shrubs, under which rest the remains of the Landgravine| 
 Henrietta Carolina (d. 1774), mother of the queen of Fred. 
 . . . . f 
 William II. of Prussia; the unpretending urn erected on the| 
 spot by Frederick the Great bears the inscription: “Femina 
 . . . | 
 
 sexu, ingenio vir.” 
 To the E. of Darmstadt are beautiful and extensive woods and planta- 
 tions. Picturesque walks (N. E.) to the shooting-box and park of Kranich-| 
 stein (3 M.); (S. E.) to the Ludwigseiche, or Ludwig’s oak (4'4 M.), which| 
 commands an extensive view of the Odenwald, Spessart, Vogelsberg, Taunus, 
 and Melibocus; (S8.) to the Ludwigshdhe and Marienhodhe (2 M.), and to, 
 * Frankenstein (7'/, M.) 
 From Darmstadt to Mayence direct by rail. inl hr. Fares 1 fi. 42 kr.,) 
 
 1 fl., and 39 kr. Country flat and uninteresting. The Rhine is crossed above) 
 the influx of the Main by the handsome new bridge, completed in 1862. 
 On the mountains to the |. of the station EHberstadt stands 
 the stately ruin of Frankenstein, and beyond Bickenbach (p. 175),) 
 the zinc-covered tower of the Alsbacher Schloss. | 
 At the station of Zwingenberg (* Lowe, R. 36, B. 18 kr.) 
 commences the picturesque Bergstrasse, leading to Heidelberg.) 
 
 The *Bergstrasse runs through orchards and pleasant villages along a| 
 range of hills, partly wooded and partly covered with vineyards, on which) 
 here and there are situated ruined castles. To the W. between the road} 
 and the Rhine, a distance of 10—12 M., is extended a wide and fertile plain.) 
 Though wanting in water, this district is one of the most beautiful in Ger-| 
 many, but the traveller will scarcely be.able to appreciate it from the win-! 
 dows of a railway-carriage. The name of “Bergstrasse” is given to the W,) 
 slopes of the Odenwald, and is not confined to the road (Strasse). One of 
 the highest points is the *Melibocus, or Malchen (1630 ft.) The ascent from | 
 
‘0 Heidelberg. AUERBACH. 41. Route. 173 
 
 Zwingenberg is easy (1 hr.), and should be undertaken. Guide (unnecessary) 
 ‘4 kr., or for the whole day 1 fl. The excursion may also be made by car- 
 jiage (4 fl.); if the traveller desire, he may then drive on to the Felsberg 
 ‘p. 175), and back by Reichenbach (p. 176) to Zwingenberg (6 fi.). — Pe- 
 lestrians may easily make the ascent without a guide by attending to the 
 ollowing directions: The road leads E. from the Lowe at Zwingenberg and 
 Scends the hill, then to the r., following the water-conduit for about 8 min.; 
 good path then leads over the Luzieberg; in 25 min. more the carriage- 
 oad, furnisfied with direction-posts, is regained. Where the high wood ter- 
 dinates, a path leads to the L., by a young beech-wood, to the tower (80 ft.) 
 n the summit, erected in 1777 by Ludwig IX., Landgrave of Hessen. 
 The Melibocus consists entirely of granite. The view embraces the valley 
 ‘f the Rhine from Speyer to Mayence, the Vosges, and the Donnersberg; the 
 ‘lain as far as the Taunus and Vogelsberg. A little to the W. of, and some 
 0 ft. lower than the tower is the best point of view, which commands a 
 ‘rospect of the entire plain from Mannheim to Darmstadt. The keys of tower 
 lust be procured at the forester’s (Heyl) at Zwingenberg; in fine weather he 
 } generally on the spot (fee for 1 pers. 9 kr,. for a party 30 kr.). — From 
 te Melibocus to the Auerbacher Schloss direct in BJ iby. 
 
 The next station is Auerbach (* Krone, R. 48 kr., weekly 
 —4 fl., B. 20, D. 48 kr., a pleasant resting-place; Nack’s 
 estaurant at the mill in the middle of the village, and at the 
 Schloss” in favourable weather; refreshments at the Mursten- 
 uger), @ picturesque village with a small castle and park in 
 ae vicinity, the property of the Grand-duke. This place 
 } a favorite summer resort of families from the neighbouring 
 Owns, and even from the N. of Germany; good head-quarters 
 or pedestrians who wish to explore the Bergstrasse and the 
 V. part of the Odenwald (p. 175). 
 
 The * Auerbacher Schloss (2 M. from the Melibocus, same 
 Astance from Auerbach) is situated on an eminence (1024 ft.), 
 ad is said to have been founded by Charlemagne. It was 
 ‘terwards the property of the monastery of Lorsch (see p. 174), 
 id then of the Electorate of Mayence. In 1674 it was taken 
 ad blown up by Turenne, but the two towers stood till 1806, 
 then one of them fell, and was rebuilt in 1852. In the 
 istle-yard a number of old Hessian warriors held a festival 
 
 1840 to commemorate the campaigns in which they had served 
 gether from 1792 to 1815, principally under their leader Prince 
 mil; this event is recorded by a stone tablet on the wall. 
 ‘he view is less extensive but more picturesque than that from 
 }e Melibocus. The custodian (usually on the spot) opens the 
 ‘wer-gate (fee 9—30 kr.). 
 iB A broad road leads through a beech-wood from the castle to the Hoch- 
 jidter Valley, by a mineral spring and ja mill, to the Newn Aussichten 
 views), the Champignon, and the Furstenlager (3% M.); thence to Schén- 
 
 'rg (1'/, M.), from which a delightful view may obtained from the castle- 
 
 ‘rden and church. From Schonberg through the valley of the same name 
  Bensheim (1'/, M.) 
 
 f 
 
 | 
 
 | 
 
 Bensheim (Sonne; Post), a busy little town in a picturesque 
 mation, besieged in vain during eleven days in 1504 by the 
 mmdgrave of Hessen and the Dukes of Brunswick and Meck- 
 aburg, as an inscription on the gate-way records. 
 
174 Route 41. HEPPENHEIM. 
 
 To the r. in the plain, on the Weschnitz, 3 M. distant, lies the 
 market-town of Lorsch, with the ruins of a Monastery, founded by Charle- 
 magne, to which in 788 he banished Tassilo, duke of Bavaria, who had 
 been condemned to death as a traitor. The Church was erected about the 
 
 year 1090. | 
 
 Near Heppenheim (*Halber Mond) on the 1., 8. of the’ 
 road, is situated the Lundberg, a hill surmounted by three 
 trees, where the Counts of Starkenburg used to ‘hold their 
 tribunals. The church of Heppenheim was founded by Charle- 
 magne, according to an inscription bearing the date of 805. 
 
 The Starkenburg (1'/, M. from Heppenheim), erected in 1064 by an 
 
 abbot of Lorsch, captured by the Swedes and Spaniards in the 30 years’ 
 war, and besieged in vain by ‘furenne in 1645 and 1674, has only lately heed 
 quite abandoned. It gives the name to a province of Hessen. Fine view 
 
 from the tower. | 
 
 Immediately after passing Heppenheim the train enters the 
 dominions of Baden. At Hemsbach, the following station, is a 
 country seat of a member of the Rothschild family. : 
 
 Before entering Weinheim (Pfdlzer Hof, R. 48, B. 24 kr., 
 1), M. from the station; Carlsberg, in the market-place) the 
 train crosses the Weschnitz. Weinheim with its handsome new 
 church, is the most considerable and beautifully situated town 
 on the Bergstrasse. Its towers and fosses, and the old build: 
 ings, which once belonged to the Templar and Teutonic knights, 
 bear testimony to its former importance. Hubberger, the best 
 wine of the Bergstrasse, is produced near Weinheim. | 
 
 To the E. stands the old castle of Windeck, the property of the monas: 
 tery of Lorsch in the 12th cent., afterwards of the Palatinate, commanding 
 a remarkably beautiful view. Delightful walks through the valleys of Gora: 
 heim and Birkenau. At the entrance to the former village is erected a stone 
 in memory of the peasants of the district who were driven out of their val 
 leys and cruelly massacred by the French in 1799. 
 
 At Gross-Sachsen, said to have been founded by Charle 
 magne, the line leaves the Bergstrasse, and turns S. E. t¢ 
 Ladenburg (Adler), the Lupodunum of the Romans, the wall 
 and towers of which, as well as its fine old Gothic church: 
 give it an air of importance. The stone bridge which hers 
 crosses the Neckar was the scene of several skirmishes during 
 the revolution of 1849; some of the cannon balls are still t¢ 
 be seen in the walls of the station-buildings. | 
 
 At stat. Friedrichsfeld (omnibus to Schwetzingen, see p. 29 
 the Mannheim train diverges to the r., while the Heidelbery 
 line runs parallel to the Mannheim and Heidelberg Railway. | 
 
 Between Weinheim and Heidelberg the peculiar beauty 0 
 the Bergstrasse is seen to the best advantage, and this stag’ 
 (12 M.) should, if possible, be performed on foot. The roat 
 leads through the villages of Gross-Sachsen (good red wine) 
 Schriesheim with the Strahlendburg in the background, Hana 
 schuchsheim and Neuenhetm (*Waldhorn), where Heidelber; 
 
MELIBOCUS. 42, Route. 175 
 
 (R. 48) at the foot of the hill with its imposing castle, and 
 the Konigsstuhl in the rear, first bursts on the view. On 
 the ]. side of the road rises the precipitous Heiligenberg. 
 
 42. The Odenwald. 
 (Comp. Map p. 172.) 
 
 | Pedestrian tour of one day. From Bickenbach to the Felsberg in 
 2 hrs., thence to Lindenfels in 31/, hrs., and by carriage in 2'/, hrs. through 
 the valley of the Weschnitz to Birkenau and Weinheim, or, if possible, from 
 Birkenau to Weinheim on foot over the Wagenburg in A nT 
 
 : Tour of three days. 1st day, as above as far as Lindenfels ; 2nd day, 
 lacross the Dromm to Waldmichelbach in 3'/f brs., thence by Ober- and 
 (Unter-Schonmattenwag to Hirschhorn in 3'/, hrs. (or by Schénau to Neckur- 
 steinach in 5 hrs.); 3d day, from Hirschhorn to Neckarsteinach in 2 hrs.. 
 and thence to Heidelberg in 2'/, hrs. 
 
 _ Tour of four days. ist day, as above to Lindenfels; 2nd day, by 
 Gumpen to Reichelsheim in 1'/, hr., by carriage through Gersprenz and 
 
 Michelstadt in 3 hrs. (or on foot through Ostern and Mossau iu 31/, hrs.) to 
 
 Erbach; 3nd day, to Beerfelden in 2'/, hrs. (better by carriage thus far), ther 
 ‘hrough the Gammelsbacher Thal to Eberbach; 4th day, to Hirschhorn in 
 2 hrs., to Neckarsteinach in 2 hrs., and thence to Heidelberg in 21/, hrs. 
 
 The Odenwald is the wooded mountain district which ex- 
 sends between Darmstadt and Heidelberg, a distance of 40 M., 
 amd is 24—30 M. in breadth. Its valleys and finest points of 
 view are well worth visiting, but are, as well as its inns, in- 
 ferior to those of the Black Forest. 
 
 . The best known summit of the Odenwald is the Melibocus 
 ‘see p. 172); the ascent is usually made from Bickenbach or 
 “wingenberg. 
 
 Bickenbach (next station to Zwingenberg) is the best point 
 or commencing a ramble in this district; thence E. (post- 
 *mnibus 3 times daily, 14 kr.) to (11/, M.) Jugenheim (* Rind- 
 uss), a picturesquely-situated village, in the middle of which 
 1. road through a gate to the r. ascends through well kept 
 srounds, past the ruins of a monastery, to the residence of 
 Prince Alexander of Hessen, a general in the Austrian army; 
 Ame view from the terrace. The pedestrian should next ascend 
 o the r. through the grounds, and, at the sign-post indicating 
 he way to the Felsberg, turn to the ]. round the hill whick 
 ‘ommands a pretty glimpse of the chateau and the plain of the 
 Rhine. A quarter of an hr. more conducts him to another 
 ‘ign-post, where the path turns to the 1. through shady plan- 
 ‘ations; in another ¥/, hr. the path to the 1. must be ascended, 
 which in about 4 hr. leads to a sign-post. About 300 yds. 
 arther a path diverges from the carriage road to the r., passes 
 » fir-wood, and leads (in 20 min.) to the Forester’s house 
 /m the * Felsberg (1578 ft.), where refreshments and tolerable 
 peccommodation for the night may be obtained. The view te 
 
176 Route 42. REICHENBACH. The Odenwald. | 
 
 the E. embraces a great part of the Odenwald, and extends | 
 to the Spessart and Aschaffenburg (much more extensive than 
 from the Melibocus); to the W. and N. lie the plains of the} 
 Rhine and Main as far as the Donnersberg and Taunus, but | 
 they are partially hidden by the Melibocus and Frankenstein. | 
 A good road leads from the Felsberg to the Melibocus (4 M.)| 
 which cannot well be missed; the Auerbacher Schloss (p. 173), | 
 4 M. distant, may also.be visited from the Felsberg. The road ! 
 to it, termed the “‘neun Kriimme”, is picturesque, and leads} 
 first through wood, then across some fields to the village of| 
 Balkhausen, then to the 1. through a wood which it finally 
 skirts. i 
 Near the Forester’s house (5 min.) lies the Altarstein, ah 
 nearly cubic block of syenite, and lower down, in a small, 
 gully, is seen a column (Riesensdule, 32 ft. long) of the same/ 
 material, both of which must have been quarried on the spot,} 
 but when and by whom is unknown. The Felsenmeer (rocky| 
 sea), on the road to Reichenbach, and 5 min. walk from the} 
 ‘Riesensaule,” consists of weathered and rounded blocks of) 
 syenite which lie scattered about in huge and confused masses| 
 on a sloping space, in breadth about 200, and in length about| 
 500 paces — an island of rocks surrounded by forest and ex- 
 tending almost to the valley. This phenomenon is accounted} 
 for by the smaller and looser masses having been washed} 
 away by the rain and the action of the elements, the larger} 
 and more solid alone remaining. | 
 The path now descends a somewhat steep hill to Rel 
 chenbach (*Traube), a village on the Lauterbach, 4 M. to} 
 the N. E. of Bensheim (p. 173). [Travellers wishing to return) 
 from this point to the Bergstrasse should not omit to visit) 
 Schinberg (*Rettig) (beautiful view from the church), and thi) 
 castle and grounds of Count Erbach-Schonberg. { 
 The road here crosses the brook and leads up the valley) 
 on the way to Lindenfels; it should, however, again be left) 
 in about 1), hr., and the path pursued to the r., past some| 
 old copper mines, to the Hohenstein, a group of quartzos¢ 
 rocks commanding a very pleasing prospect of the ‘valley and) 
 mountains. In 5 min. more the hill should be ascended tc} 
 the 1., then past some houses of Unter - Reidelbach, and back 
 to the above-mentioned main road, which is not again to be 
 diverged from. The whole walk from Reichenbach to Lin} 
 denfels traverses picturesque valley-scenery, but does not offer} 
 much variety. 
 About 114, M. from the point where the traveller regains 
 the high road, he passes through the small village of Kolm 
 bach, and about *4, M. farther reaches a point marked by 
 
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The Odenwald. LINDENFELS. 42, Route. 177 
 
 benches and a group of trees, from which a fine view is: ob- 
 tained of the extensively wooded, but fertile mountain district; 
 Lindenfels with its stately ruined castle stands out picturesque- 
 ly in the foreground; beyond is the broad valley of the 
 Weschnitz, thickly sprinkled with villages; the back-ground is 
 formed by a chain of mountains, above which rises the tower 
 on the K6nigsstuhl near Heidelberg. 
 
 The road now leads through a beautiful beech-wood, in- 
 ferspersed with boulders of granite, to Lindenfels (* Harfe ; 
 \ess. Hof) picturesquely situated on an eminence, and com- 
 manded by the considerable ruins of the castle. The latter 
 was formerly the property of the Palatinate, but dismantled 
 »y Turenne in 1674. Near it are black-lead mines, 
 
 On the beautiful Waldberg, to the E., is situated a small 
 ‘ircular wooden temple, called the “ Ludwigshthe, 11/, M. 
 listant from Lindenfels, which commands a fine view of the 
 seighbourhood; and by ascending for another }/, hr., the pe- 
 lestrian may reach a point from which the Spessart is visible. 
 
 From Lindenfels to Heppenheim (p. 174) on the road to Furth is 
 ) walk (at first with guide, 18 kr.) of 2 hrs.; 
 
 ; the path leads by Eulsbach, 
 Irlenbach, Mittershausen and Kirchhausen. 
 
 From Lindenfels to Weinheim by carriage (4 fl.) through the valley 
 f the Weschnitz in 2'/, hrs. Pedestrians should descend to the S, of Linden- 
 els; after 10 min. the path leads to the 1. through the wood; in 25 min. 
 lore, over a slight eminence, covered with fir-wood, and '/, M, farther Firth 
 } reached (Lowe; good beer at Hess’s, opp. to the inn), a small town about 
 { M, from Weinheim. The footpath (shorter than the road) leads by #ahr- 
 ach in 1 hr. to Rimbach (* Nic. Geist), then by the road ‘through ‘Mérlen- 
 ach, Reissen, and Birkenau to Weinheim. 
 
 Between Birkenau (Birkenauer Hof) and Weinheim (2 M.) 
 le road winds through the narrow and romantic valley of the 
 Veschnitz, enclosed by granite rocks. But the path over the 
 Wagenberg (4M.) is far preferable. Near the W. end of Bir- 
 enau, on the |. bank of the Weschnitz opposite to the pump, 
 fe path ascends; in abont 25 min. it enters the corner of 
 1e wood and turns sharp off to the 1.;  M. farther it 
 javes the broad road which leads into the valley of Gorx- 
 im, and ascends a steep hill to the r., and, after 200—300 
 ards, to the r. again; then about 1 M. along a tolerably 
 ‘vel path through the wood, round the N. E. slope of the 
 ‘agenberg to the castle of Windeck (p. 174), and finally a 
 scent of */, M. to Weinheim. This walk commands a series 
 the most beautiful views, first of the entire Weschnitz Thal 
 | Lindenfels, with the basaltic peak of Otzberg, looking like 
 /ruined castle, in the background; then, as the traveller pro- 
 veds round the mountain, the broad valley of the Rhine, with 
 }einheim and Windeck in the foreground, and a great part 
 
 the Palatinate as far as the Donnersberg and the Haardt 
 }3AEDEKER’sS Rhine, 12 
 
178 Route 42. HIRSCHHORN. 
 
 mountains, come gradually in sight. The Melibocus and Fels- 
 berg at the commencement, and the Wagenberg at the end, | 
 are undoubtedly the finest points in the whole excursion. 
 
 Travellers wishing to spend several days in the Odenwald, | 
 may remain the first day in Lindenfels and ascend the Lud- | 
 wigshéhe (see p. 177), and proceed the next morning on foot 
 to Firth (3 M.). The footpath thence to the Dromm cannot | 
 well be missed (but it is safer to take a guide as far as the 
 wood, ¥/, hr.). After 20 min. the turn to the r. must be 
 taken, and 5 min. farther a narrow footpath to the r., which 
 for a short distance skirts the wood, crosses the brook, and | 
 then enters the wood and ascends; after 25 min. a large | 
 meadow in the wood is reached, which the path skirts; | 
 25 min. more brings the pedestrian to the Dromm (1780 ft.), | 
 one of the most elevated points of the Odenwald, commanding | 
 a good survey of the valley of the Weschnitz, and in the 
 distance the plain of the Rhine. The house on the summit 
 must then be passed and the ridge of the mountain followed 
 (1, M. from the house, a fine view of the valley of the Rhine 
 *s obtained from some rocks among the bushes on the r.)a] 
 Then a gradual descent to the little town of Waldmichelbach 
 (*Gartner, near the Prot. church). 
 
 From Waldmichelbach the traveller may take the high road 
 to Ober-Schénmattenway, but here he should leave it, and walk, 
 through the rich pastural valley of the Lax by Unter -Schén- 
 mattenwag, Corsika, and Langenthal to Hirschhorn. The path, 
 cannot be missed. Another path leads from Waldmichelbach| 
 by Siedelsbrunn and Heiligkreuzsteinach to Schénaw (12 M.), @ 
 small but ancient town which stands on the ruins of the once) 
 rich and celebrated monastery of the same name. It was) 
 founded in 1136, and in 1560 given by the Elector Palatine, 
 Frederick III. to some French refugees who built the village. 
 From Schénau through the romantic valley of the Steinach to; 
 Neckarsteinach in 1 hr. | 
 
 From Waldmichelbach an interesting path leads by Siedels: 
 brunn in 11/, hr. to Oberabsteinach, and through the Léhrbacher 
 Thal in 1¥, hr. to Birkenau (p. 177). 
 
 Hirschhorn (* Berthold; Langbeiwn) lies in a remarkably: 
 picturesque situation at the foot of the stately castle of the 
 same name, once the property of the powerful family von 
 Hirschhorn, by whom the Carmelite monastery at the foot of 
 the rock was built; the chapel still stands, and contains many! 
 tombstones of members of the family. The view of the town 
 
 | 
 
NECKARSTEINACH. 42, Route. 179 
 
 and castle from the road to Neckarsteinach is extremely 
 beautiful. 
 
 Neckarsteinach (* Harfe; see p. 186) is situated on the 
 Neckar and commanded by four castles, the highest of which, 
 the JMittelburg, has been restored in the old style. Krom 
 Neckarsteinach by Neckargemind to the Wolfsbrunnen and 
 Heidelbérg Castle, see p. 186. 
 
 Those who may wish to penetrate still more deeply into 
 he Odenwald, visit Erbach, and ascend the Katzenbuckel, should 
 jproceed on the second day from Lindenfels to Reichelsheim 
 4 M.), a prettily situated village, commanded by the Castle 
 of Reichenberg, visible at a great distance. 
 
 Half an hour’s walk to the N. of Reichelsheim, in a wild and lonely 
 ivooded mountain district, lies the ruined castle of Rodenstein, popularly 
 yelieved to be haunted by the wild huntsman and his comrades. 
 
 From Reichelsheim the traveller is recommended to take 
 carriage to Gersprenz, Michelstadt (Hydropathic estab.), and 
 ‘Erbach, a drive of 3 hrs. (or on foot from Reichelsheim to 
 stern, Obermossau, and Erbach in 31/,. hrs.) Erbach (Burg 
 Wildenstein; Krone) is situated in the Mimlingthal, about 
 12 M. to the E. of Lindenfels. The castle of Count Erbach 
 ‘ontains a considerable *collection of ancient armour, once worn 
 »y well-known historical characters, old fire-arms, relics, 
 rases, &c. In the chapel may be seen the stone coffin in 
 vhich the bones of Charlemagne, his wife Emma, and her 
 ister Gisela once reposed. An ancient helmet, found on the 
 vattle-field of Canne, is also an object of interest (fee 24 kr.) 
 | From Erbach to Beerfelden (*Breimer), a distance of 
 1, M., and thence down the Gammelsbacher Thal to Eberbach 
 ‘1 M.), the traveller had better proceed by carriage, as the 
 vooded valley presents but little variety. From Eberbach (*Krone) 
 he ascent of the Katzenbuckel (2094 ft.), the highest point 
 if the Odenwald, is usually made. The watch-tower (keys 
 ‘t the forester’s at Katzenbach) commands a fine prospect of 
 ‘he valley of the Neckar, Baden, Wirttemberg as far as the 
 ‘Alb, and the Black Forest. 
 
 The district between Eberbach and Hirschhorn (6 M.) is 
 vild and romantic. The valley of the Neckar is narrow, and 
 ‘closed by steep, well-wooded mountains. From Hirschhorn 
 
 'y Neckarsteinach to Heidelberg see above. 
 | 
 
 43. Heidelberg. 
 
 Hotels, At the station: *Hétel Schrieder (Kduhne), R. from 1 fi., L. 
 5, B. 36, D. 1 fl. 30, A. 24 ky.; Victoria see p. 180. In the town, 1 M. 
 yom the station: *Prince Charles, and near it the *Adler (Eagle), in 
 ne Kornmarkt; *Russischer Hof (also Hotel garni); *Europdaischer 
 lof (Schrieder) in the Anlage; *Badischer Hof, Hauptstrasse; *Hol- 
 
 12* 
 
180 Route 40. HEIDELBERG. 
 landischer Hof, at the Neckar bridge. Charges in all these hotels nearly ; 
 the same: R. 1/1., L. 12, B. 30 kr., D. exc. W. 1 fl. 12, A. 24 kr. — Second- 
 class inns: Bayrischer Hof, R. 48 kr., D. 1 fi., B. 24 kr., is at the same 
 time a restaurant; *Darmstadter Hof, both near the station. In the town: ’ 
 *Ritter and Prinz Max, Miller’s Victoria Hotel (Hétel garni) in the 
 Anlage. 
 
 Cafés. Wachter; Thiele; Krall, corner of the Hauptstr. and the 
 Friedrichsstr.; good beer at the Bremeneck, in the Burgweg. 
 
 Newspapers at the Museum in the Ludwigsplatz, opposite to: the | 
 University. 
 
 Swimming baths at the Neckar, at the Mannheimer- and Carls-Thor | 
 (12 kr.). River baths near Werle’s Oil mill. 
 
 Omnibus between the town and the station (or steamboat-wharf) 6 kr., 
 with luggage 12 kr. 
 
 Carriages (Stands in the Ludwigsplatz and Kornmarkt): between the 
 station and town for 1—2 pers. 12 kr. each, for 3-4 pers. 9 kr, each, boxes 
 6 kr. each. By time: '/, hr. for 1—2 pers. 18 kr., for 3—4 pers. 24 kr.; 
 1 hr, 1 fl. or 1 fl. 12 kr. — To the Castle 2 fl.; Wolfsbrunnen, and back by | 
 the road 2 fl.; Wolfsbrunnen and Castle 3 fl.; Castle and Molkencur 3'/, fl.; 
 Castle, Molkencur, and Wolfsbrunnen 4'/, 4.3; Castle, Molkencur, Konigs-. 
 stuhl and Wolfsbrunnen, for 2 pers. 8% fl., for more than 2 pers. 11 fi,; to’ 
 Schwetzingen, for the whole day 5'/, fl., half a day 3% fl.; to Neckarsteinach, | 
 for the whole day 6, half day 4 A. 
 
 Donkeys to the Castle 24 kr., back 12 kr.; to the Castle, Molkencur and 
 back 1 fl. 12 kr.; to the Wolfsbrunnen 1 fl., there and back 1 fl. 12 kr.; to 
 the Kénigsstuhl 11, fl., there and back 1%/, fl.; to the Konigsstuhl and back 
 by the Wolfsbrunnen 2 fl. 24 kr.; for waiting 30 kr. per hour. Donkey- 
 stands on the path leading from the Kornmarkt to the Castle. : 
 
 Railways. To Bruchsal, Durlach, Carlsruhe, &c. from the Baden station, 
 to Darmstadt and Frankfurt from the Main- Neckar station, adjoining the 
 first-enamed. Railway to Wirzburg opened as far as Mosbach, 
 
 Telegraph Office at the Railway station and in the Ludwigsplatz, No. 10. 
 
 Steamboats to Heilbronn (somewhat tedious) in 12 hrs. (down in 6—$ hrs.). 
 By railway to Heilbronn or Stuttgart in 4!/, hrs. 
 
 English Church near the Badischer Hof. | 
 
 The traveller whose time is limited should proceed at once from the) 
 station to the Riesenstein, Molkencur, and Castle (1'4 hr.) according to the 
 following directions: opposite to the station the “Pariser Weg” must be 
 followed for about 240 paces, then the hill to the r. is ascended through the | 
 “ Wolfsschlucht” in '/ hr. to the Rondel (crescent), then a new broad care } 
 riage-road to the 1. leads (in 5 min.) to the Kanzel (pulpit), which commands 
 a magnificent prospect of the town and castle. The quarries are next reached, | 
 and, after avoiding a road to the 1. (which Jeads to the town), the traveller, 
 by pursuing the road in a straight direction for about 1 M., will reach the 
 Molkencur, and, 3/,; M. farther, the Castle. The descent should be made by! 
 the Burgweg, across the Kornmarkt, through the town past the theatre to | 
 the Anlagen, and thence to the station. A short street leads from the large) 
 church in the market-place to the bridge (p. 185), which also commands 3| 
 delightful prospect. 
 
 Few towns can vie with Heidelberg in the beauty of its. 
 environs and its richness in historical associations. The! 
 Count Palatine Otto of Wittelsbach (1228—53) transferred! 
 the seat of his government and family from Stahleck (p. 102),) 
 near Bacharach, to Heidelberg, which thus became the capital 
 of the Palatinate, and continued for nearly 5 centuries to be! 
 the seat of the Electors, till Carl Philipp in 1720, on account| 
 of some differences with the Protestant portion of the com | 
 munity, transferred the seat of government to Mannheim.| 
 Since 1802 Heidelberg has belonged to the Grand-duchy Of| 
 
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HEIDELBERG. 43. Route. 181 
 
 | Baden. Its prosperity has of late years been considerably 
 | augmented by the completion of the railway, and the con- 
 | sequent increase in the influx of visitors. 
 
 | Heidelberg is the key of the mountainous valley of the 
 | Neckar, mahieh below the town widens and is at length united 
 with the Rhine, but the town itself is limited to the narrow 
 confines between the river and the castle hill. It consists of 
 one long street (11/, M.), extending from the Mannheimer to 
 ‘the Carls-Thor, and has a population of 16,288 (14 Rom. 
 Cath.). On the N. side flows the river, and on the S., run- 
 ning for some distance parallel with the town, is the “An- 
 age,” a public walk, planted with trees, where of late years 
 a number of handsome residences have been erected. The 
 two monuments near the station record the names of the 
 ‘founders of this walk; in the immediate vicinity is the old 
 | Churchyard of St. Anne, in which the remains of many eminent 
 men repose. 
 
 | Near the E. extremity of the Anlage, on the 1., is the 
 Protestant Church of St. Peter, where Hiexonymus of ‘Prague, 
 ‘the companion of Huss, expounded his doctrines to the people 
 ‘in 1406. Farther on is the Jesuits’ Church, and in the market- 
 ‘place the Church of the Holy Ghost, erected at the commence- 
 ‘ment of the 15th cent., under the Count Palatine Rupert; the 
 ‘choir contains the tombstone of King Rupert, and his queen 
 Elizabeth, sister of Frederick of Zoller, the first Elector 
 of Brandenburg. Opposite to this church is the inn of the 
 Ritter St. George, built in 1592, and interesting as being al- 
 ‘most the only house which remained intact in the devastation 
 vof 1693 (p. 182). 
 
 The University (800 students), after that of Prague the 
 oldest in Germany, the celebrated Ruperto-Carolina, cradle of 
 ‘the sciences in S. Germany, was founded in 1386 by the 
 Elector Rupert I. For its preseat extent and arrangements, 
 it is indebted to the learned Charles Frederick of Baden, who 
 in 1802 provided it with eminent professors, as well as 
 ‘Scientific collections and institutions. 
 
 The greater number of the lectures are held in the Uni- 
 versity buildings in the Ludwigsplatz, erected in 1693. The 
 LItbrary is a separate building, and contains 200,000 vols. and 
 1800 MSS. It is open daily from 10 to 12, and on Wed. and Sat. 
 also from 2 to 4 o’clock. The scientific collections, though valuble 
 to the student, possess little interest for the passing traveller. 
 
 The town itself contains little worthy of note, and the 
 tourist should devote every spare hour to exploring the 
 “Castle and its environs. It is situated on a wooded slope 
 jof the Konigsstuh], 320 ft. above the Neckar, and probably 
 
182 Route 43. HEIDELBERG. Castle. 
 
 owes its origin to Ludwig der Strenge (the Severe), son-in- 
 law of Rudolph of Habsburg, about the close of the 13th cent. 
 The Ruprechtsbuu was erected by the Elector Rupert Ill., who 
 in 1400 was elected by the council of electors at Rhense 
 (p. 92) to be Roman emperor; this fact is indicated by the 
 imperial eagle placed above the arms of the Palatinate on 
 this part of the building. The Elector Frederick I., “the 
 Victorious”, the Frederick the Great of his age, enlarged the 
 building. The Electors of the 16th and 17th centuries, espe- 
 cially Otto Heinrich (1555—59), Frederick IV. (1583—1610), 
 and Frederick V. (1610—21), king of Bohemia and husband 
 of Elizabeth, daughter of James I. of England, made splendid 
 additions to the edifice: It suffered much in the 30 years’ 
 war, but was restored by Carl Ludwig (1650—80). It was 
 this prince, who, when hard pressed during the devastations 
 of the Palatinate in 1673, wrote to Turenne, saying that such 
 barbarities could not possibly be perpetrated by the command 
 of the “most Christian king,” and perhaps arose from some 
 personal feelings against himself, which he should be most 
 willing to satisfy by meeting the Marshal in single combat. 
 The Marshal, however, declined the proffered challenge. In 
 the Orleans war the French general Melac, contrary to the 
 stipulation, caused the castle to be blown up in 1689. (Picture 
 by Dietz in Carlsruhe). 
 
 The town und its habitants, however, met with the most 
 barbarous usage in 1693 at the hands of the French, to whom, 
 owing to the treachery or cowardice of the commandant, the 
 castle and town surrendered after little or no resistance. The 
 massacre of the inhabitants, and destruction of the castle and 
 habitations, immediately commenced. After the most savage 
 and almost incredible barbarities, to which the greater por- 
 tion of the peaceable inhabitants fell victims, the town was 
 left a heap of smouldering ruins, and the castle entirely dis- 
 mantled. 
 
 After this feat of arms so tarnishing to his fame, the 
 “most Christian king” Louis XIV. caused a medal to be 
 struck, bearing the words: ‘‘Heidelberga deleta.” The Castle 
 was struck by lightning in 1764, and the scanty remnants left, 
 by the French burned to the ground. The walls alone re- | 
 mained, but so vast is their extent that to this day they | 
 form the most imposing and magnificent ruin in Germany. 
 The towers, turrets, buttresses, balconies, the lofty gateways 
 and fine old statues, the courts and grounds, render it the 
 Alhambra of the Germans. Nor are the splendour of the 
 structure and the beauty of its situation its sole attractions; | 
 its ivy-clad ruins are connected with innumerable historical 
 
Castle. HEIDELBERG. 45, Route. 183 
 
 associations of the deepest interest, and the striking contrast 
 _ here presented between the eternal rejuvenescence “of nature 
 and the instability of the proudest monuments of human skill, 
 has called forth many a poetic effusion. 
 
 There are several footpaths which lead from the town to 
 the Castle; the shortest is the Burgweg, leading from the 
 Kornmarkt to the Great Balcony, an ascent of about 12 min. 
 A carriage road leads from the Klingelthor, at the E. extrem- 
 ity of the walk which commences at the station, to the Castle 
 in 15 min. By this road the visitor is led first into the gar- 
 den, and then to the 1. through the Llisabethen-Pforte, erected 
 by the Elector Frederick V. in honour of his consort Eliza- 
 beth of England, to the Stickgarten, the extreme W. point 
 of the grounds, commanding an extensive view as far as 
 the Haardt mountains. The “dicke Thurm” (thick tower), at 
 the W. corner, was once the festive Hall of Frederick V 
 and statues of him and his brother Ludwig V. 
 peering forth from ivy-clad niches. 
 
 To the r. on entering the Schlosshof (castle yard) is a 
 fountain with granite columns, which once adorned the Palace 
 of Charlemagne at Ingelheim (p. 146). To the 1. is the 
 _ Ruprechtsbau, with the imperial eagle, and above the en- 
 (trance a wreath of five roses supported by two angels, one 
 ‘of whom is in the act of putting a pair of half-opened 
 ‘compasses into one of the roses — an allegory which has 
 never been satisfactorily interpreted. The small hall contains 
 ‘a collection of old armour, bullets &c., found in the castle. 
 Visitors who wish to gain an idea of the magnitude of the 
 whole edifice, should explore the extensive, and partly sub- 
 terraneous passages which connect this point with the “Thick 
 Tower,” and afterwards inspect the castle chapel and the 
 cellar. (Fees for conducting visitors over the entire ruin, 
 including the “Great Tun”: for 1 pers. 24, for 2-—3 pers. 36, 
 |for every additional pers. 12 kr.) 
 
 The *Otto Heinrichsbau (1556) to the E. especially de- 
 serves a careful inspection. The decorations in the front facing 
 \the court are admirably executed in the purest Italian ren 
 naissance” style, and are remarkable for the accuracy of their 
 proportions; the designs are ascribed to Michel Angelo. Over 
 the door is the bust of the Elector Otto Heinrich, who erected 
 this part of the castle, as its name implies, and higher up in 
 | twelve niches are statues of mythological characters; over the 
 ‘windows are medallions of Roman emperors, and in the four 
 -lower niches are placed, somewhat incongruously, statues of 
 | Joshua, Samson, Hercules, and Mars. 
 
 The Friedrichsbau (1601) seems by the superfluity of its 
 
 ord 
 » are seen 
 
184 Route 43. HEIDELBERG. Castle. 
 
 decorations to strive to excel all the rest of the edifice in 
 magnificence. The front is embellished by statues of 16 Elec- 
 tors Palatine, from Otto of Wittelsbach (1184), to Frederick IV. 
 (1607); above them to the |. is a statue of Charlemagne. In 
 the corner, to the ]., is the entrance to the cellar, which con- 
 tains the celebrated Heidelberg Tun, constructed in 1751, 
 capable of containing 49,000 gallons. Near it stands a gro- 
 tesque wooden figure of Perkeo, court-jester of the Elector 
 Charles Philip, probably placed there to commemorate some 
 frolic of olden times, and a second large tun bears some 
 amusing inscriptions. 
 
 The *Graimberg Gallery in a suite of rooms on the first 
 floor of the Friedrichsbau (admission 12 kr.; for parties of 
 6 and upwards 9 kr. each), contains a considerable collection 
 of portraits of princes, chiefly of the Palatinate, documents, 
 coins, a cork model of the castle, relics found in the tomb 
 of the emperor Rupert in the church of the Holy Ghost, 
 ornaments, ecclesiastical antiquities &c. The gallery, as a 
 whole, possesses considerable value and _ historical interest, 
 though many of the objects are in themselves insignificant. 
 
 A vaulted passage leads through the Friedrichsbau to the 
 * Great Balcony (1610), which commands a beautiful prospect 
 of the Neckar to the N. Beneath the balcony is a long vaulted 
 gateway leading to the steps which descend to the footpath 
 to the town. 
 
 The “gesprengte Thurm” (blown-up tower) at the E. ex- 
 tremity of the castle, in the fosse to the r. of the bridge 
 leading into the castle-yard, is of so massive a construction 
 that, when the French attempted to blow it up in 1689, the 
 only result of the explosion was, that an enormous portion be- 
 came detached from the rest and fell bodily into the ditch, where 
 it still remains. The Tower is 82 ft. in diameter, and 
 the walls are 20 ft. thick; beneath it are long casemate 
 passages. 
 
 The present castle-garden was laid out in 1804, and 
 abounds with the most delightful walks presenting new and 
 ever-varying views. One of the finest points is the * Great 
 Terrace to the N.E., erected in 1615, which commands a fine 
 prospect of the Castle itself. On the path from the Castle to 
 the terrace is a wine and coffee-garden, where a band ge- 
 nerally plays on summer afternoons. 
 
 To reach the Molkencur, the traveller must ascend the 
 steps opposite to the “gesprengte Thurm”, and then turn 
 to the r. among ivy-clad walls; another flight of steps is then 
 ascended which lead to the broad carriage road, a little below 
 the Rondel. The Friesenweg, so called on account of an 
 
 ee ee ee 
 
| 
 
 | Molkencur. HEIDELBERG. 43. Route. 185 
 
 inscription on the rock in memory of the artist Ernst Fries 
 of Heidelberg, to the ]. of the Rondel, then leads through an 
 avenue of chesnuts past the so-called “Old Castle’ on the 
 Jettenbihl, inhabited in the 12th cent. by Conrad of Hohen- 
 ‘staufen, the brother of Barbarossa, but completely destroyed 
 by lightning in 1537, to the Molkencur (whey-cure), an inn 
 Situated 288 ft. above the Castle, and a very favorite resort. 
 The view is similar to that from the Castle but more ex- 
 tensive. 
 
 The *Koénigsstuhl, also called the Kaiserstuhl in com- 
 memoration of the visit of the emperor Francis in 1815, is 
 851 ft. higher than the Castle, and 1752 ft. above the level 
 of the sea. It is ascended by a very steep flight of steps 
 from the road, about 1M. from the Molkencur, but it is also 
 accessible by a good carriage road in 34 hr. The watch- 
 tower on the top, 89 ft. in height, commands a most exten- 
 sive view of the Rhine, Neckar, Odenwald, Haardt mountains, 
 ‘Taunus, the Black Forest as far as the Mercuriusberg at Baden, 
 and even the cathedral-spire of Strasburg. 
 
 From the Molkencur a broad carriage-road leads to the 
 'W. round the Riesenstein (giant-stone), past some sandstone 
 quarries, to the so-called *Kanzel (pulpit), 1 M. distant, and, 
 a few hundred yards farther, to the *Rondel (crescent), from 
 both of which, especially the latter, the most extensive prospect 
 may be enjoyed. From the Rondel a path to the r. descends 
 through the Wolfsschlucht to the station (1 M.). The pe- 
 destrian may, if he pleases, continue his walk along the brow 
 of the hill 11, M. farther to the Neuhof (*Inn), but the view 
 vemains the same. In this case the road back will bring him 
 through the wood to the Cemetery (fine view from the front 
 of the chapel), 3/4, M. from the railway station. 
 
 _ To the E. of the Castle a road leads to the Wolfsbrunnen 
 ‘3 M.), once a favorite resort of Frederick V. and his bride 
 p. 182). According to an ancient tradition, the beautiful en- 
 thantress Jetta was here killed by a wolf; hence the name. 
 The five ponds fed by the spring contain trout, a dish of 
 which may be had at the inn. The view from this point is 
 Jar inferior to those in the more immediate vicinity of the town. 
 | The handsome Bridge over the Neckar was constructed 
 xy the Elector Carl Theodor in 1788, and is embellished with 
 ‘tatues of the Electors and one of Minerva. In 1799 it was 
 wavely and successfully defended by the Austrians against the 
 sttacks of the French. 
 
 ' On the r. bank of the Neckar is the *Philosophenweg, 
 +» beautiful walk extending for 3 M. along the brow of 
 he = Heiligenderg, chiefly through vineyards, commanding 
 
186 Route 44. MANNHEIM. : 
 
 splendid views of the town, the castle, the valley, the plain) 
 of the Rhine with the cathedral of Speyer and the beautiful 
 outlines of the S. Haardt mountains. This path is reached) 
 by taking the first street (Hirschgasse) which ascends the hill, 
 about °/, M. beyond the bridge. The way back leads through} 
 Neuenheim (p. 174); or the walk may be taken in the opposite 
 direction. At Neuenheim the river is crossed by a ferry (4 kr.);| 
 
 the swimming-bath is at the landing place on the 1. bank of 
 
 the river, and not far from the station. 
 
 Excursions (carriages and railways p. 180) may also be made to Neckar- 
 gemiind, about 6 M. distant, situated on the 1. bank of the Neckar at the 
 confluence of the Klsenz. Beyond it, on a wooded eminence to the r,, rises 
 the Castle of Dilsburg, in vain besieged by Tilly in the 30 years’ war, and 
 about the commencement of the present century employed as a state prison. 
 The next place of note is the old town of Neckarsteinach (* Harfe) (p. 179),/ 
 about 10 M. distant from Heidelberg. It was once the seat of the valiant| 
 race of the Steinachs, which became extinct in 1653. The four old castles 
 still bear testimony to the power of these knights. The church contains 
 numerous monuments of members of the family, several of whom bore the) 
 surname of Landschaden (land - devastation), perhaps on account of the nu-| 
 merous feuds in which they were engaged, In the Steinbach, which here) 
 unites with the Neckar, pearl-muscles of considerable value are occasionally 
 found. os 
 Excursion to Speyer, Mannheim, and Schwetzingen, see RR. 44 and 48. | 
 
 44, Mannheim and Schwetzingen. 
 
 i 
 
 Hotels. On the Rhine near the steamboat wharf: European Hotel! 
 (R. 1 fi., L. 18, B. 30, A. 24 kr.). In the town: *Pfalzer Hof (Hotel of 
 the Palatinate) similar prices. *Deutscher Hof (German Hotel). — * Konig) 
 von Portugal and Schwarzer Léwe for travellers of modest pretensions, | 
 Weisses Lamm, inn and beer-house, clean and moderate; Goldene Gans, 
 
 Restaurants. Stern near the theatre; Café Francais; Mohrenkopf,| 
 Rosenstock, the two latter generally possess good bills of fare at moderate, 
 eharges. Drei Glocken, near the Strohmarkt, moderate and respectable | 
 beer-house. | 
 
 Railway Station in Mannheim for the Darmstadt, Frankfurt and) 
 Heidelberg trains, in Ludwigshafen for those to Mayence, Speyer, Neu-| 
 stadt, &c. 
 
 Conveyances. Omnibus from the Mannheim station to that of Ludwigs- 
 hafen without luggage 22 kr., each box 6 kr.; cab from station to station| 
 1—2 persons 45 kr., 3 pers. 51 kr., 4 pers. 1 fl. 8 kr. 
 
 Steamboat. The wharf is */, M. distant from the Ludwigshafen, and’ 
 #1/, M. from the Mannheim station. A straight road leads from the latter to 
 the wharf past the theatre and» the Jesuits’, church to the Observatory, and 
 then to the ]. through the Palace gardens. | 
 
 Porterage from station or steamboat to cab or omnibus 3 kr. for each) 
 package. 
 
 English Church Service during the season. | 
 
 | 
 \ 
 
 Mannheim was founded in 1606 by the Elector Frederick, 
 IV. of the Palatinate, but when still in its infancy was de-’ 
 stroyed by the French in 1689. For its subsequent importance 
 it was indebted to the Elector Charles Philip, who on account 
 of ecclesiastical differences with the townspeople of Heidelberg | 
 transferred his residence to Mannheim in 1721. The siege 
 
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: SCHWETZINGEN, 44, Route. 187 
 of 1795 occasioned considerable damage to the town; in 1799 
 the fortifications were demolished. 
 
 » Mannheim has a population of 26,914 (1/4, Prot.), and is 
 the most regularly built town in Germany, being divided into 
 100 square compartments like a chess-board. ‘The streets 
 have no names, but are designated as Square (Quadrat) A. 
 'B. C. &c., with ‘the exception of the Planken, a street planted 
 with trees, which extends from the Rhine to the Heidelberg 
 gate. The extensive traffic in tobacco, madder, spelt, and fruit, 
 which is here carried on, has rendered Mannheim, which is 
 conveniently situated at the confluence of the Neckar and 
 Rhine, the most important commercial town of the Upper Rhine. 
 The harbour of the Rhine is connected with that of the Neckar 
 and with the Baden station by means of rails laid down 
 through the town. 
 
 The spacious Schloss, erected in 1720—1729, and partially 
 destroyed in 1795, contains (in the gateway, to the 1.) a number 
 iof Roman monuments, with remarkable inscriptions, statues, 
 small Etrurian sarcophagi, &c.; in the first floor of the same 
 wing is a Picture-yallery, where a few Dutch pictures are to 
 oe seen, together with a considerable collection of engravings 
 and casts of celebrated antiquities, and a cabinet of natural his- 
 sory. The Grand-duchess Stephanie (d. 1860), adopted daughter 
 of Napoleon I. and widow of the Grand-duke Charles (d. 
 1818), formerly resided in the palace. Mannheim is also the 
 shief residence of the nobility of the Palatinate. 
 
 The Theatre, completely restored in 1854, ranks among 
 whe best in Southern Germany, and is admirably decorated. 
 Schiller’s first pieces, the “Robbers,” “Fiesco,” “Kabale und 
 uiebe,” were here represented under his own direction. — 
 Schiller’s Monument, in the “Schillerplatz”, was erected in 
 Nov. 1862 by voluntary contributions collected in Mannheim. 
 
 Mannheim possesses several handsome modern churches 
 umd other edifices, but offers few objects of attraction to the 
 Jassing traveller, who may far more advantageously employ 
 lis time at Speyer with its magnificent cathedral, in the beauti- 
 ul environs of Heidelberg (see R. 43, railway in ¥/4 hr.), or in 
 
 he celebrated garden of “Schwetzingen. 
 
 Train from Mannheim to Friedrichsfeld about halfway to Heidelberg 
 hence by carriage (one-horse there and back 1 fl. 45 kr.) or omnibus (in 
 ummer 4 times a day) to Schwetzingen (Erbprinz; Hirsch). The * Gardens, 
 ‘aid out by the Elector Charles Theodore in the middle of the 18th cent.. 
 over an area of 112 acres of land, and contain handsome avenues in the old 
 french style, as well as portions laid out in the fashion of an English park, 
 ‘he whole may be seen in about 2 hrs. The objects most worthy of note 
 te as follows, beginning on the 1. (services of a guide quite unnecessary) : 
 ‘Temple of Minerva , the Mosque (with fine view from the highest minaret, 
 40 ft., fee 12 kr.), Temple of Mereury ; view from the large pond (near the 
 ‘olossal statues of the *‘Rhine” and ‘ ‘Danube”) through an opening in the 
 
188 Route 45. KREUZNACH. 
 
 wood of the Haardt Mts.; Temple of Apollo, Bath-house (fee 12 kr.), bird 
 fountain, Roman aqueduct and orangery. | 
 
 The Schloss, or palace, built by the Elector Carl Ludwig about the middle 
 of the 17th cent., contains nothing of interest. 
 
 45. The Bavarian-Rhenish Palatinate. 
 Donnersberg and Haardt. 
 
 The following Plan of excursion comprises the entire mountainous distrigt 
 
 of the Rhenish Palatinate. Travellers whose time is limited should take the 
 
 railway (p. 224) from Ludwigshafen to Speyer, where they may inspect the 
 epttsiieand i thence in 1 hr. to Neustadt in the centre of the Haardt. 
 
 From this point a pleasant excursion may be made by taking the railway 
 to Frankenstein (3/, hr.), and then proceeding on foot through ‘the Isenach- 
 thal by the Hartenburg and monastery of Limburg (p. 191) to Durkheim 
 (13'% M.). Or still better — from Neustadt with {-horse carriage (1 fl.) te 
 Frankenstein in 2'/, hrs.; inspect the villa, and then drive on to the 
 Hartenburg in 2 hrs.; on foot to Limburg (3 M.), and 1'4, M. farther te 
 Dirkheim. Those who are already acquainted with Speyer may prefer tc 
 go direct from Ludwigshafen to Dirkheim by omnibus, or 1-horse carriage 
 (31/, fi.) in 2 hrs. 
 
 At Dirkheim the finest part of the vine-clad Haardt mountains begins, 
 to explore which about 3 days are required. ist day: from Diirkheim te 
 Neustadt, the Hambacher Schloss, and Edenkoben. 2nd day: along the brow 
 of the hill to Eschbach, the Madenburg , over the mountain to Trifels, to, 
 Annweiler and Willgartswiesen. 3d day: Dahn and environs, through th 
 Lauterthal to Hinter-Weidenthal and the Kaltebach, where the diligence 
 which runs between Landau and Zweibricken stops daily. From Zweibricker 
 a branch line joins the main line between Ludwigshafen and Saarbrtcken at 
 Homburg; thence in 2 hrs. to Neustadt, in 3 hrs, to Ludwigshafen, 
 
 The remaining part of this prosperous district, though less celebrated as 
 a wine- country, is scarcely less beautiful. In order to appreciate it, the 
 traveller is recommended to commence the tour from Kreuznachs on the 1s1 
 day by the Rheingrafenstein, Ebernburg, through the Alsenzthal to Dielkirchen; 
 2nd day, over the Donnersberg to Gr tinstadt, and thence by carriage to Dirk: 
 heim; on the 3d, 4th and 5th. days as above. 
 
 The finest wines of the Palatinate are produced at Kénigsbach, Rupperts 
 berg, Deidesheim, Forst, Wachenheim, Diirkheim, Ungstein, and Ronen 
 the red wine of the last named place resembles Burgundy. In good yeas 
 the Palatinate yields upwards of 20 million gallons of wine. Pedestriang 
 should observe that the footpaths through the vineyards are closed in = | 
 
 and Oct. 
 Maps and views of the Palatinate and of the cathedral of Speyer may 
 be procured at Gottschick- Witter’s, bookseller at Neustadt, 
 
 Kreuznach, the Rheingrafenstein and Lbernburg are de? 
 scribed in R. 29. The path to the Gans and Rheingrafensteir 
 cannot well be missed. It leaves the high road at the Hotel 
 zum Rheinstein, opposite to the bath- island, and ascends in 
 1 hr. to the Rheingrafensteiner Hof, then through the grounds 
 to the Gans, and in 4 hr. more to the Rheingrafenstein; the 
 latter part of the path is however somewhat difficult to find 
 withont a guide. From the Rheingrafenstein 1/, 
 brings the “pedestrian to the foot of the porphyry rock, op- 
 posite to which lies the village of Minster am Stein (R. 29). 
 
 The river Nahe is here the boundary between Prussia and 
 Bavaria. On an eminence on the r. bank lies the Ebernburg 
 (*Inn). The road now ascends the Alsenzthal in S. direction, 
 
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DIELKIRCHEN. 45, Route. 189 
 passing Altenbumberg (with old castle on the heights, destroyed 
 by the French in 1669) to Alsenz (Post) (7, M.). Farther 
 on in the picturesque and populous -valley, near Mannweiler, 
 are the ruins of the castle of Randeck, situated on a wooded 
 eminence. The next village is Ké/n. 
 
 Dielkirchen (*Hoster), 6 M. from Alsenz, is a good halt- 
 ing place for the night, the inn being good and moderate, 
 unless the traveller should feel disposed to proceed to Dannen- 
 fels, 10 M. farther. The road continues in the Alsenzthal for 
 1'/, M. more, and as it approaches Rockenhausen (* Post), 
 diverges to the l. to Marienthal (3%/, M.). The footpath lead- 
 ing from Dielkirchen to the Marienthal is not difficult to find 
 and saves about 114 M. Guide. from Dielkirchen over the 
 ‘Donnersberg to Dannenfels (36—48 kr.) not absolutely ne- 
 cessary. 
 
 Marienthal possesses a tine Gothic church of 1478, 
 which has lately been restored in the old style; it contains 
 several good monuments of the counts of Grafenstein. At the 
 Bastenhaus, *), M. from Marienthal, the pedestrian must 
 leave the road and follow the track which ascends to the Tu, 
 along the course of the Appelbach. Where the path divides 
 what to the 1. must be taken which leads out of the wood. 
 Although the flat summit of the Donnersberg now lies before 
 she traveller, he must still bear to the I., as the way to the 
 op is somewhat circuitous. The inns at Marienthal and the 
 B3astenhaus are tolerable. 
 
 The *Donnersberg (2126 ft.), dedicated in ancient times 
 ‘0 the god Thor, was called by the Romans Mons Jovis. 
 The upper part of it consists principally of red porphyry. 
 #rom a great distance the mountain may be easily recognized 
 »y its shape, being an extensive table-land, bounded by pre- 
 ‘ipitous slopes, and entirely clothed with luxuriant beech- 
 vood. 
 
 | A large farmhouse, the Donnersberger Hof, erected on the 
 vuins of an old monastery, formerly occupied the summit, but 
 't was removed in 1854 by the Bavarian government, and the 
 ite planted with wood. Ten minutes’ walk from the spot 
 where the building stood is the Hirtenfels, a shady seat among 
 he rocks on the E. side of the table-land, commanding a most 
 yeautiful view of the course of the Rhine upwards nearly to 
 bpeyer, of the Haardt mountains to the S., and the Odenwald 
 Melibocus ) and the Taunus (Feldberg, Altkénig) to the E. 
 The view from the Kénigsstuhl, a porphyry rock farther to 
 te W., on which the Franconian kings and the counts of the 
 YVormsgau are said to have held their tribunals, is less attrac- 
 ive, and only extends over the wooded hills. 
 
190 Route 45. 
 
 DURKHEIM. Fthenish- Palatinate 
 
 The path which descends on the E. side is shaded by beau-| 
 tiful beech, ash, and maple trees, and leads in about 9 br. 
 to the village of Dannenfels (* Gumbel), a romantic spot in @ 
 grove of remarkably fine shea trees. The road, now des: 
 titute of shade, leads across an undulating sin to Benn: 
 hausen (21, M.), Weitersweiler (11/, M.), and “Dreysen (11, M.)) 
 where the “Kaiserstrasse,” constructed by Napoleon, is crossed) 
 Géllheim (Hirsch), 1 3), M. farther, is a small town of con: 
 siderable antiquity, at the entrance of which is situated a hand: 
 some new chapel, designed by Voit of Munich; near it is ar 
 ancient elm, under which stands the Kénigskreuz, a crucifix 
 much injured by the French republicans in 1794. On the r| 
 side is the inscription: 
 
 “Anno milleno trecentis bis minus anntis 
 In Julio mense rex Adolphus cadit ense” 
 to which is added by way of postscript, that the monumen’ 
 was renewed by Count Ludwig of Nassau in 1611. The | 
 inscription on the E. side is almost illegible. 
 
 Under this tree, on July 2nd, 1298, the emperor Adolpt 
 of Nassau (p. 201) expired amid the noise and turmoil o} 
 battle, pierced by the sword of his antagonist Albert oO" 
 Austria. The contest, which had commenced at the Hasebiihll 
 1//, M. to the S., was terminated on this spot by the death) 
 of the emperor. The cross and the wall into which it is 
 built, were shortly afterwards erected by a member of the 
 imperial family. 
 
 Diirkheim is about 15 M. distant from Gdllheim by thd 
 road through Grimnstadt, and 12 M. by the footpath by Eisen' 
 berg and Leiningen. The intervening district is undulating 
 and fertile but uninteresting. The traveller who starts from 
 Dielkirchen early in the morning, crossing the Donnersberg 
 and reaching Grunstadt on foot (as no earriages are to bi 
 had at Gdllheim), must either pass the night there, and pro} 
 ceed by omnibus on the following morning, or take a carta 
 the same evening to Durkheim (one-horse 2 fi.) 
 
 Griinstadt (Jacobslust; diligence 24 kr., in the mornialll 
 and omnibus to Durkheim; 1-horse carriage 2 fl.) was till the 
 time of the first French revolution the residence of the counts 
 of Leiningen. Their castles of Alt- and New-Leiningen, thé 
 ruins of ‘which are seen on a hill at some distance, weré¢ 
 destroyed in 1690. The Obere and Untere Hof, the residences! 
 of the counts in Grinstadt, are now employed for industrial 
 and educational purposes. The road, which lies very high’ 
 next traverses a succession of extensive vineyards. Herheim 
 Callstadt, and Ungstein are noted for their wines. | 
 
 Diirkheim (*Hotel Reitz, at the E. side of the town, | 
 
Rhenish- Palatinate. LIMBURG., 45. Route. 191 
 
 8.5 B. 20 kr., D. 1 fli; * Vier Jahreszeiten), with a pop. of 
 000, was almost entirely rebuilt after the destruction of the 
 iastle of the counts of Leiningen by the Elector Palatine 
 'rederick in 1471, and again after the French devastation of 
 689. During the subsequent century it was the prosperous 
 nd animated residence of the princes of Leiningen-Harten- 
 urg, till their castle was burned down by the French in 1794, 
 ts site is now occupied by the Town-hall. Dirkheim is one 
 { the most important places in the Palatinate, and is beauti- 
 ally situated amidst the vineyards of the Haardt mountains. 
 ‘he grape-cure and the neighbouring saline baths of Philipps- 
 alle attract numerous visitors in autumn. Ludwigshafen 
 ), 224) is 12 M. distant, Neustadt 9 M., Grinstadt 71/4 M., 
 aiserslautern (p. 196) 21 M. Omnibuses run daily in all 
 irections; to Neustadt five times a day in 2 hrs., fare 
 9 kr. One-horse carriage to Neustadt 3 fl.; diligence twice 
 ily, 24 kr. 
 
 On a precipitous height at the entrance of the Isenachthal, 
 ‘/ M. to the W. of Dirkheim, are situated the stately ruins 
 i the ancient Benedictine monastery of *Limburg, a pala- 
 fal building, ornamented with a handsome piazza, belonging 
 the 11th cent. It is one of the principal objects of attrac- 
 on in the environs of Dirkheim, and is frequently visited 
 yom Mannheim. It was once the castle of the Salic count 
 onrad the Elder, who was elected king of Germany in 1024 
 Conrad II. His eldest son Conrad having lost his life 
 yhile hunting, the king resolved to convert his castle into a 
 ace of worship, an act of devotion which he believed would 
 favourable to the repose of his son’s soul. He accordingly 
 id the foundation-stone of the church in presence of his 
 geen Gisela, July 12th, 1030, at 4 o’clock in the morning, 
 | the old chronicles tell us, and, at a later hour on the same 
 y, the foundation-stone of the cathedral of Speyer. Twelve 
 ars later the edifice was completed and placed in the 
 nds of the Benedictines. The abbots chose the Hartenburg 
 ‘unts of Leiningen for their protectors, but subsequent quar- 
 ‘s induced Count Emich VIII. to take possession of and 
 ‘Stroy the abbey in 1504, It was partially restored in 
 16—1554, but was finally secularized by the Elector Pala- 
 we Frederick III. in 1574, and since then has gradually 
 len to decay. 
 
 ' The ruin now belongs to the town of Durkheim, and is 
 ‘rounded by public walks and grounds (refreshments to be 
 secured at the top). The S. W. tower, which belongs to the 
 th and 14th centuries, commands a fine view; a portion of 
 
 b Cloisters of the same date and the vaults on the E. side 
 
192 Route 45. DEIDESHEIM. Rhenish- Palatinate; 
 
 are still well preserved. In three different directions delight: 
 ful prospects are obtained, especially that to the E. over the 
 yast Palatinate, extending like a garden beyond the mountains 
 of the Odenwald. To the N. W. the view is bounded by the 
 red ruins of the Hartenburg (* Hirsch), a castle founded bj 
 the counts of Leiningen about the year 1200, completed i 
 1510 and destroyed in 1794. Its extensive vaalts and hug¢ 
 dismantled towers resemble those of the castle of Heidelberg 
 A large grass-plat (gymnastic ground) on the E. side of thy 
 castle, surrounded with handsome lime-trees, commands a fin 
 view of the valley. 
 
 To the N. E. of Limburg is situated the Kastanienberg, 01 
 the wooded slopes of which a part of the Heidenmauer ma} 
 be seen; above it rises the Teufelsstein, a mass of rock, 12 ft! 
 in height, which possibly once served as an altar. The Heiden} 
 mauer (heathens’ wall) is a stone wall, 8—12 ft. in height 
 constructed of loose stones heaped together, and enclosing | 
 space on the summit of the Kastanienberg of 60-—100 ft. i 
 diameter. The novelist Cooper derived the materials for hij 
 tale “The Heidenmauer” from this locality. The wall, lik] 
 that on the Altkénig (p. 169), is incontestibly of ancien| 
 Germanic origin. The Peterskopf (1530 ft.), 27/4, M. to th’ 
 N. W. of the Teufelsstein, commands an extensive and beau 
 tiful view. | 
 
 On the verge of the W. mountain-basin, a path leads b 
 the village of Seebach (11. M.), with an ancient conver| 
 and well preserved church of the 12th cent., through vineyard} 
 (closed in Sept. and Oct.) to Wachenheim (Krone), 2'/, ¥ 
 farther. By the high road from Durkheim to Wachenheim th 
 distance is not above 11/4, M. 
 
 On the W. side of Wachenheim lie the ruins of the Wachter) 
 or Geiersburg, once the property of the Salic dukes, afterward 
 of the Counts Palatine, destroyed in 1689. On the S. sid 
 are situated handsome villas and well-kept grounds, belongin 
 to the wealthy wine-merchants of the district. The ne 
 village on the road is Forst (%, M.), and 1’, M. farth«) 
 Deidesheim (*Bairischer Hof), both celebrated for the 
 wine; the rich wine-merchants constitute the sole aristocrac) 
 of the country. 
 
 Pedestrians should leave the high road a little to the 4 
 of Deidesheim, and turn to the r. through vineyards, skirtin) 
 the brow of the hill, to Konigsbach (2.M.), and, */, M. beyon 
 it, Gimmeldingen; about 2 M. farther the castle of Winzingé 
 is reached, the ruins of which are covered with ivy, and su| 
 rounded by private pleasure-grounds (not open to the public 
 Near it are the * Wolf’sche Anlagen, behind the village 
 
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Rhenish- Palutinate. MADENBURG, 45. Route. 193 
 
 Haardt, near the church, which are always accessible to 
 visitors. From the highest part of the grounds near the 
 ‘Hermitage a fine view is obtained over the entire plain of 
 the Rhine; Speyer, Mannheim, and even the red sandstone 
 ‘arches of the castle of Heidelberg may be distinguished. At 
 ‘the foot of the hill lies Neustadt, 11/, M. distant. Neu- 
 ‘stadt, Maxburg, Edenkoben, Lundau, see R.55. The Maxburg 
 lies 3 M. to the 8S. W. of Neustadt. From the Maxburg a 
 ‘Steep path leads to Mittel-Hambach at the foot of the hill, 
 from which the road leads through the plain to Edenkoben 
 (3 M.). < 
 
 The pedestrian should now proceed along the slopes of 
 ‘the wooded and vine-clad mountains to the large and wealthy 
 village of Rhodt (11/, M.), on an eminence near which are 
 situated the ruins of Rietburg or Rippburg. At the foot of 
 ‘the hill is the Ludwigshéhe, a handsome villa, erected by king 
 Ludwig I. of Bavaria, commanding a noble prospect, but the 
 ‘interior is destitute of artistic decoration. About 6 M. to the 
 'W. is situated the “Schdnzel,” on the Steigerkop/ (1919 ft.), an 
 important military point, bravely and successfully defended 
 against the French by the Prussian general von Pfau, to whose 
 Memory a monument has been erected on the spot. 
 
 _ The road next leads through the villages of Weiher (1, 
 M.) and Burweiler (11/, M.); above the latter lies the pictu- 
 resque, white Anna-Capelle; */, M. farther is Gleisweiler 
 1000 ft.), sheltered from the N. and W. winds, at the foot 
 of the Teufelsberg (2500 ft.); it possesses an extensive Hy dro- 
 pathic Estab., containing likewise grape, whey, and (strange 
 to English ears) cowhouse-air cures (also an hotel); weekly 
 charges, incl. medical attendance, 171/,—28 fl.; pleasant ex- 
 eursion to Scharfeneck, a ruin 4!/, M. to the S.W. — Frank- 
 weiler (Schwan) (1\, M.) and Siebeldingen (11/, M.) are 
 the next villages. The Queich (p. 223) is now crossed. The 
 mountains on the r. bank of the Queich are considered to 
 delong to the Vosges, of which the Haardt constitutes the N. 
 ipurs. 
 
 After passing J/besheim (21/4, M.), with the ruined castle of 
 Neucastel, the road leads to Eschbach (Engel), a village at 
 he foot of the Madenburg (to visit which the traveller should 
 ‘gage the services of a guide), and thence to Trifels. 
 | The *Madenburg, 11/, M. to the S.W. of Eschbach, is 
 be grandest and most extensive ruin in the Rhenish Palatinate. 
 Che castle formerly belonged to the counts of Leiningen, 
 ‘fterwards to the archbishopric of Speyer, and was burned 
 town by the French general Montelar in 1680. It commands 
 . Doble prospect — the finest in the whole Palatinate — com- 
 BAEDEKER’s Rhine. 13 
 
194 Route 45. ANNWEILER. 
 
 prising the plain of the Rhine from Strasburg to the Meli-| 
 bocus, and in the distance the heights of the Odenwald and | 
 Black Forest. The cathedral spire of Strasburg, the towers 
 of Carlsruhe, Speyer, Mannheim, and Worms, are all visible | 
 to the naked eye. But what lends a peculiar charm to the | 
 scene is the view of the adjacent chain of the Vosges, with | 
 its numerous volcanic and forest-clad peaks, from many of, 
 which bare masses of variegated sandstone rise in grotesque | 
 forms, often resembling old ruined castles. 
 
 A walk of 4, M. in a N.W. direction along the high) 
 mountain slopes, through fragrant pine, fir and beech woods, 
 will now bring the pedestrian to the ruins of the Castle of | 
 *Trifels (1422 ft.), where Richard Coeur de Lion was con-; 
 fined for more than a year by the Emperor Henry VL., until 
 his liberation was effected by the instrumentality of the faith-} 
 ful Blondel. Trifels was not unfrequently occupied by the, 
 German emperors; its walls protected the unhappy Henry IVa 
 when he was excommunicated by the Pope in 1076, deserted) 
 by his nobles and pursued by the unnatural hostility of his! 
 own son. The castle also served as a prison for Adalbert, 
 archbishop of Mayence, who was closely confined here by! 
 Henry V., but released by the citizens of Mayence, as the 
 inscription on the brass gates of the Cathedral records. Here 
 too were frequently kept the imperial insignia and treasures.' 
 After the 30 Years’ war the castle fell gradually into decay, 
 so that at the present day nothing is left but the tower (30 
 ft.) and fragments of the walls. The view resembles that 
 from the Madenburg, but is less extensive. On a mountain) 
 of the same height as that on which Trifels stands, rises the 
 Minz, a square tower (70 ft.), the ascent to which is made| 
 in 1 hr. from Annweiler, a village at the foot of the hill on 
 the N.W. side. — A still finer prospect is obtained from the 
 tower on the Rehberg, 3 M. distant from Annweiler. 
 
 Annweiler (Trifels; Rother Ochse; Post; good beer at the 
 Bairischer Hof) is a small town, possessing a handsome modern 
 Town-hall, designed by Professor Voit of Munich, but contains 
 no objects of interest to the traveller (Omnibus twice daily 
 to Landau, p. 223). From this point the road ascends the 
 beautiful * Annweiler Thal, a narrow dale enclosed by woode¢ 
 slopes and mountain peaks from which grotesque masses 0) 
 variegated sandstone project, giving a most» picturesque ap 
 pearance to the valley. 
 
 The finest portion of the valley is comprised betweer 
 Annweiler and Willgartswiesen (*Lamm), a distance 0! 
 6 M. The grandest and most remarkable broken masses 0} 
 coloured sandstone, rising from the woods and bushes, aré 
 
 { 
 
BERGZABERN. 45. Route. 195 
 
 those in the vicinity of Dahn (Pfalz), which, with the assistance 
 of a guide, may be reached in 2 hrs. from Willgartswiesen. 
 Before entering the village the extensive ruins of the old castle 
 of Dahn are seen situated on a wooded sandstone rock, which, 
 as well as the castle itself, is so overgrown with underwood 
 that it is difficult to distinguish the one from the other. The 
 steps and passages are partly cut out of the solid rock. 
 The highest point affords a good survey of the surrounding 
 mountains, and is worth a visit, as the ascent does not occupy 
 more than 20 min. 
 
 In the immediate vicinity of Dahn is the Jungfernsprung 
 (virgin’s leap), a rock of considerable height, overhanging the 
 road to Kaltebach, with which various traditions are connected. 
 About 3°*/, M. farther in the valley of the Lauter, where similar 
 rocky formations are frequently met with, lies Kaltebach, a 
 post-station on the high road between Landau and Zweibricken. 
 Beyond this point the country offers few objects of attraction 
 to the traveller. He may now return to the Rhine by the 
 Zweibricken diligence or by the omnibus. 
 
 Another circuit may be made by again turning E. from 
 Dahn, following the high road by Busenberg, Erlenbach with the 
 castle of Barbelstein, and Birkenhérdt, to Bergzabern (Huber), 
 a small old-fashioned town, 12 M. from Dahn, from which an 
 omnibus runs to the railway stat. Winden, 4!/, M. distant. 
 
 Instead of descending from the hill at Gleiswei/er, the traveller 
 may, if he prefer it, proceed along the heights, which offer a 
 Succession of fine views, to Albersweiler and Annweiler (12 M.); 
 here he may take a carriage to Dahn, return in the evening 
 to Annweiler, and proceed the next day to Trifels, Maden- 
 jurg and the railway stat. Landau. 
 
 46. From Mannheim to Saarbricken. 
 
 Ludwigshafen-Bexbach and Prussian Saarbriicken line. 
 
 To Neustadt in 1, Kaiserslautern in 2, Homburg in 3, and Saarbriicken 
 m4hrs. Fares 6 fi, 7, 3 fl. 48, and 2 fl. 35 kr. The station at Ludwigs- 
 lafen, opposite to Mannheim, is %/, M. distant from the Rhine bridge, 
 ind 2'/,M. from the Mannheim station. Carriage from one station to the 
 ther, 1—2 pers. 45 kr., 3 pers. 1 fl., 4 pers. 1 fl. 12 kr.; omnibus 22 kr., 
 © Mannheim 16 kr. 
 
 During 1 hr. the train traverses fields of corn and tobacco. 
 Stations Mutterstadt, Schifferstadt, junction of the branch line 
 0 Speyer (p. 200), which may be reached in 15 min.; BéAl, 
 fom which a view of the distant Donnersberg may be 
 »btained; Hassloch, a large, flourishing village with 5000 in- 
 Mabitants. As the Haardt mountains are approached, the Maa- 
 vurg (p. 223), om an eminence to the l., comes in view, to 
 
 13* 
 
196 Route 46. KAISERSLAUTERN. From Mannhein 
 
 the r. the ruin of Winzingen, and beyond it, farther tc 
 the r., the extensive vineyards of Kénigsbach, Ruppertsberg 
 Musbach, and on the mountain-side the long village of Haard 
 (p. 193). 
 
 At Neustadt is the junction of the Maximilian, Ludwig 
 and Bexbach lines, see p. 224. The latter now enters thi 
 mountain district of Westrich. For an hour the train wind! 
 through the narrow, well-wooded, and picturesque valley 0 
 the Speyerbach, the variegated sandstone rocks of which ar 
 penetrated by 12 tunnels. Beyond Neustadt, on an eminenc: 
 to the r., are situated the red ruins of Wolfsburg, belov 
 which stands a castellated cloth-factory. The next station 1) 
 St. Lambrecht-Grevenhausen (*Weber), the numerous cloth 
 factories of which owe their origin to French emigrants. O7 
 a neighbouring height are the ruins of Neidenfels. At th 
 following stat. Frankenstein (*Krone; *Hirsch), the valley i 
 remarkably wild and picturesque; to the r. is the rock calle: 
 the Teufelsleiter (devil’s ladder). In a secluded valley divergin, 
 to the r. lies the ruin of Diemerstein, now converted into privat 
 pleasure-grounds. (From Frankenstein to Durkheim see p. 188) 
 The station of Hochspeyer, the highest on the line, lies nearl) 
 100 ft. higher than Neustadt. The last tunnel is abou 
 1400 yds. in length. 
 
 Kaiserslautern (*Schwan) is one of the most importan 
 places in the Palatinate, and is situated in the hilly tract c| 
 Westrich. It was once a residence of the Emperor Frederic; 
 Barbarossa, who erected a magnificent palace here in 1152 
 the site of which is now occupied by a house of correctior| 
 His memory is still greatly revered in Kaiserslautern, as h 
 presented a wood to the town, which produces an annu¢| 
 revenue of 30,000 fl. The Protestant church also owes it 
 foundation the same monarch. The churchyard contains | 
 monument to the memory of soldiers of Napoleon who wer 
 natives of the place. Here the Prussian troops under the Duk’ 
 of Brunswick, after their return from Champagne, repulse! 
 the French under Pichegru and Hoche in Noy., 1793. [Diligence 
 to Kreuznach through the Alsenzthal (p. 189) in 8 hrs.] 
 
 The tract of country between Kaiserslautern and Hombur 
 is remarkably flat. The line (together with the Kaiserstrassi 
 p- 146) skirts the turf-moor and the foot of the hills. 
 
 Landstuhl (ngel; Krone) was once the seat of th 
 Sickingen family, whose strong castle, with its massive wall; 
 24 ft. in thickness, now lies in ruins above the town. Fran 
 von Sickingen was besieged in this stronghold by the elector 
 of the Palatinate and of Treves, and lost his life by th 
 falling of a beam. His bones lie in a vault under the churel 
 
to Saarbricken. NEUNKIRCHEN. 46. Route. 197 
 The monument erected to his memory was destroyed by the 
 French, but portions of it are still to be seen at the church. 
 ‘The large Rom. Cath. Orphan Asylum is a modern building. 
 The next station of importance is Homburg (Carlsberg; 
 Post), among the buildings of which the handsome Rom. Cath. 
 church is a conspicuous object. The castle of Carlsberg, 
 1, M. to the E. of the town, was built by Duke Charles II. of 
 
 the Palatinate in 1780, and destroyed by the French in 1793. 
 | Branch line (23 min.; fares 30, 18, 12 kr.) to Zweibriicken (Pfdlzer 
 Hof; Zweibricker Hof; Lamm), formerly the principal residence of the 
 Dukes of the Zweibricken-Palatinate, and known in the literary world as 
 the place where the Editiones Bipontine of Latin and Greek authors were 
 published. When Charles X. (Gustavus) of the house of Zweibriicken ascended 
 ‘the Swedish throne, the Duchy became subject to Sweden, which it continued 
 to be till the death of Charles XII. in 1719. Stanislaus Lesczinsky, the 
 fugitive king of Poland, resided here for some time, and to him belonged 
 the neighbouring grounds of Z'schiflik, on the road to Pirmasenz, now quite 
 fallen to decay. 
 
 Beyond Lexbach the line enters a rich mining and coal- 
 district in the Prussian dominions. The foundry of the brothers 
 ‘Stumm at Neunkirchen (Jochum, near the bridge) employs 
 about 800 hands, and yields 5000 tons of iron-wares annually. 
 ‘At Neunkirchen is the junction of the Rhein-Nahe and Saar- 
 ‘bracken lines. 
 
 Beyond Neunkirchen the train passes through the Bildstock 
 tunnel (500 yds.). The numerous cuttings which have been 
 ‘made in this vicinity, expose to view the strata of coal, with 
 intervening layers of slate and sandstone, containing many 
 remarkable fossils (stgil/aria), which are rarely met with in 
 ‘such abundance. In many of the cuttings from 40 to 50 fossil 
 ‘trunks of trees of various diameters have been found. Some 
 of the coal-mines are situated on the main line, others are 
 connected with it by branch railways. They all belong to the 
 Prussian government, at whose expense they are worked. 
 The number of hands employed is about 13,000, and the yield 
 upwards of 2 million tons of coals annually, worth 800,000/. 
 ‘These mines form the entire source of the industry of the 
 ‘district. Glass-houses, sal-ammoniac, Prussian-blue, and other 
 manufactories abound. 
 
 Between the stations of Sulzbach and Duttweiler, in the wood '/,M. to 
 the 1. of the line, is situated the ‘‘brennende Berg’? or burning mountain, 
 & coal-bed which ignited spontaneously about 160 years ago. A slow com- 
 ‘bustion is still taking place, and the whole bed, 400 by 40 yds., is gradually 
 
 Sinking. Smoke may be seen, especially after rain, issuing trom the fissures, 
 in which eggs are sometimes cooked by visitors. 
 
 Saarbriicken (*Zix) on the Saar, which here becomes 
 Navigable, is a Prussian town on the French frontier, connected 
 by a bridge with the suburb of St.Johann. ‘The palace was 
 fap to 1793 occupied by the princes of Nassau-Saarbriucken; 
 the palace-church contains monuments of the family. 
 
 : 
 1 
 
198 Route 47. WORMS. 
 
 At Arnual in the immediate neighbourhood is a *Church' 
 built in the best Gothic style, containing a remarkably fine font, 
 pulpit, and interesting old monuments of the above mentioned 
 princely family, whose vaults were formerly at Arnual. 
 
 From Saarbriicken to Metz by railway in 24,, to Paris 
 in 12 hrs. 
 
 47. Worms. 
 
 Worms (* Alter Kaiser, or Old Emperor, near the cathedral, 
 R. 42, A. 18kr.; Rhenish Hotel, at the steamboat wharf, */, M.| 
 from the town; Lichfrauenberg), one of the most ancient towns 
 in Germany, is situated °/, M. from the Rhine to which its) 
 walls formerly extended, and is rendered worthy of a visit 
 by its Cathedral, the baptistery of which contains some good’ 
 statues. The Burgundian conquerors of the Rhineland (431), 
 the Franconian kings, and afterwards Charlemagne and his; 
 successors, frequently resided at Worms, Here the war against 
 the Saxons was brought to a close in 772; here the May’ 
 assembly was often held, and the great contest concerning the 
 investiture of the bishops with ring and staff was here termin- 
 ated by the Concordat between the emperor Henry V. andi 
 Pope Calixtus II. Many other historical events of interest 
 are also connected with this venerable city. 
 
 As early as 1255, Worms belonged to the Confederation 
 of the Rhenish towns, and in the time of Frederick Barbarossa! 
 contained a pop. of 70,000 souls; at the commencement of the 
 30. Years’ war this number was reduced to 40,000, and at the 
 present period to 10,726 (% Prot.). All the suburbs were! 
 levelled in 1682 by order of the Swedish Colonel Haubold, 
 and in 1689 the town suffered the most cruel devastation at 
 the hands of Melac and the young Due de Crequi. A pro, 
 clamation had been issued that on a certain day the whole 
 town, with the exception of the cathedral, should be committed 
 to the flames. The dismayed inhabitants accordingly sought 
 an asylum in the sacred edifice with their most valuable 
 property, which thus became an easy prey to the enemy. On 
 May 3lst, 1689, the town was set on fire, and, with the 
 exception of the cathedral and synagogue, soon became one 
 smouldering heap of ruins. Traces of the fire may still be 
 observed on the cathedral walls. 
 
 The * Dom, or Cathedral, was consecrated in 1016 in presence 
 of the emperor Henry II., but underwent extensive alterations 
 towards the close of the 12th cent. The whole structure, 
 with its four slender towers, two cupolas and choir, is, more 
 particularly in its exterior, one of the finest Romanesque 
 
WORMS. 47. Route. 199 
 
 churches in existence. Quaint figures of animals and masks 
 are visible upon the towers, of which the N.W. was erected 
 by Bishop Reinhardt in 1472, to replace the old one, which 
 had fallen in. ‘To the same date belongs the S. pointed arched 
 *Portal, in the pediment of which may be seen the figure of 
 @ woman adorned with a mural crown and mounted on a 
 animal, whose four different heads (angel, lion, ox, and eagle) 
 are symbolical of the four Evangelists. The whole is evidently 
 emblematical of the victorious Church, and has no reference, 
 as some suppose, to the frightful execution of the tyrannical 
 Brunhilde, consort of the Austrasian king Siegbert, which 
 took place here in 613, under the direction of Clotaire II. 
 of Soissons. 
 
 The interior of the cathedral is destitute of ornament, but 
 the very ancient Scu/pture, representing Daniel in the lions’ 
 den, in the first S. chapel on the r., together with the Tombstone 
 of the three Frunconian princesses, belonging to the 13th cent., 
 and removed from the Nunnery to its present position in the 
 N. aisle, may afford some interest to the visitor. 
 
 The baptistery, to the 1. of the S. Portal, contains some 
 large *Sculptures, admirably executed, most perfect in detail, 
 and in excellent preservation. They formerly belonged to the 
 cloisters- constructed in the 15th cent., but on the demolition 
 of the latter in 1813, they where removed to their present 
 position; they represent the Annunciation, Descent from the 
 Cross, Resurrection, Nativity and Genealogy of Christ. Beyond 
 them is the Tombstone of the knight Eberhard von Heppen- 
 heim, a well-executed figure in armour kneeling before a 
 crucifix. The font formerly belonged to the ancient chapel 
 of St. John, which was taken down in 1807. The paintings 
 in the old Byzantine style of the two patron saints of the 
 ‘Church, St. Peter und St. Paul, and of other saints, alone escaped 
 the French conflagration. The objects in this chapel deserve 
 the minutest examination, and may be seen on application to 
 the sexton (fee 18 kr.) who lives in the square, a few hundred 
 yards from the S. portal of the church. 
 
 It may perhaps interest those who are versed in German 
 degendary lore to know that the open space in front of the 
 cathedral was the scene of the quarrel between Brunhilde 
 and Chrimhilde, as recorded by the Nibelungenlied in the 
 14th Adventure. 
 
 The handsome sub-structure of red sandstone on the N. 
 ‘side of the cathedral was formerly the episcopal residence, 
 rebuilt in 1727, after having been destroyed by the French in 
 1689, and again despoiled by the republicans in 1794. It was 
 here that the diet of April, 1521, was held, in which Luther 
 
200 Route 47. WORMS. 
 
 defended his doctrines in presence of Charles V., six electors,| 
 and a numerous assembly. Here too a last and ineffectual| 
 attempt at a reconciliation between the Protestants and the! 
 Rom. Catholics was made by order of the emperor Ferdinand,) 
 the Protestant cause being defended by Melancthon and the! 
 Rom. Catholic by the Dean Jacob von Eltz. 
 
 The Synagogue near the Mainzer Thor is an object of! 
 interest to antiquarians, though externally of unimposing! 
 appearance. The Jewish community of Worms is one of the! 
 oldest iri Germany, and is said to have existed as early as| 
 588 B, C., at the time of the first destruction of the Templey 
 by the Babylonians. 
 
 Heil’s Garden is worth a visit on account of the a 
 palms and rare plants which the hot-houses contain. 
 
 In the Mainzer suburb, destroyed by the Swedes and the} 
 French, the * Liebfrauenkirche, or Church of our Lady,| 
 8/,M. from the cathedral, alone escaped. The broad path; 
 to the r. which leads to it, diverges from the high-road' 
 about 100 yards from the Mainzer Thor, and passes the old) 
 churchyard, bounded on the S. by fragmerts of walls connected 
 with the old church. ‘he church was erected at the close of} 
 the 15th cent. to replace an older edifice which occupied the) 
 same site; the key-stone of the vaulted roof bears the arms| 
 of the different corporations of Worms who caused it to be! 
 built. The only object of interest which the interior contains| 
 is a curious old piece of painted sculpture in the N. aisle. 
 The Portal is decorated with well-executed statues, representing | 
 the wise and foolish virgins, the death of the Virgin and her} 
 coronation by the Saviour. Service on Saturdays and those! 
 days which are dedicated to the Virgin. : 
 
 The well-known second-class wine called Liebfrauenmilch is| 
 yielded by vineyards in the immediate vicinity of the church. | 
 Near the old watch-tower Luginslund, and at the Catetloch on} 
 the S. side of the town, a wine scarcely inferior to the above) 
 is produced. 
 
 In former times the Rhine flowed round a meadow known | 
 to this day by the name of the Rosengarten, on the r. bank: 
 of the river, opposite to Worms. With it are connected many 
 ancient German traditions, preserved in the poetry of Siegfried’ 
 and the Nibelungen, to appreciate which, however, a thorough } 
 acquaintance with the old German language and ‘literature is | 
 requisite. 
 
 48. Speyer. | 
 Speyer (* Wittelsbacher Hof; Rheinischer Hof; *Bregenzer’s | 
 
 Restaurant near the cathedral), the principal town of the | 
 
SPEYER. 48. Route. 201 
 
 Bavarian Palatinate, seat of Government and a bishopric, “ city 
 of the dead emperors,” has a pop. of 11,000 (7/, Prot.). It 
 was known to the Romans as Noviomagus, Neomagus, Nemete, 
 or Augusta Nemetum, and as, by the partition of Verdun (843), 
 it became with Worms and Mayence a portion of Germany, 
 it has frequently been the residence of German monarchs. It 
 especially rose to importance under the Salic kings, who 
 resided at their palace of Limburg near Dirkheim (p. 191), 18 M. 
 ‘from Speyer. 
 
 The **Cathedral (open till 11 a.m., and from 2 to 6 p-m.) 
 was founded in 1030 by Conrad II. as a burial place for him- 
 self and his successors, and completed by his son Henry III., 
 and grandson Henry IV. (1061), all of whom found their last 
 resting-place within its precincts. The remains of Henry IV., 
 however, who had been excommunicated by Pope Gregory, 
 were not conveyed here till 5 years after his death, during 
 which period his body remained unburied in the Chapel of 
 St. Afra, on the N. side of the cathedral, which he himself 
 had erected. His son Henry V., the last of the Salic imperial 
 family, is also interred in the cathedral, as well as Philip 
 of Swabia, Rudolph of Habsburg, Adolph of Nassau, and 
 Albert I. of Austria, by whose hand Adolph fell at Géllheim 
 p. 190). After the murder of Albert I., the Emperor Henry VII. 
 saused the remains of the two rival monarchs to be deposited 
 side by side in the same vault. Here too lie the remains of 
 nisela, the pious consort of Conrad IL, Bertha, the queen of 
 denry IV., and Beatrice, the wife of Barbarossa, with her 
 laughter Agnes. The cathedral was in 1146 the scene of the 
 sealous and fiery preaching of St. Bernhard, whose fervency in 
 she cause of the Cross induced Conrad III. to join the crusades. 
 
 The cathedral suffered much by a great conflagration in 
 (450, but was soon restored. On May 31st, 1689, the sacred 
 ‘difice was laid waste by the fire and sword of the French 
 oldiery, who in their eagerness for spoil did not even respect 
 he resting-places of the dead. The tombs of the emperors 
 vere broken open and ransacked, the finest towers in the 
 own were blown up, the inhabitants driven out, and the town 
 tself, after having been filled with combustibles, committed 
 0 the flames and completely destroyed, whilst the most fright- 
 ul atrocities were practised by the hirelings of the “most 
 hristian” Louis XIV. The demolition of the imperial monu- 
 lents was again repeated in 1693 by the order of the French 
 itendant Henz, and by a singular coincidence, exactly 100 years 
 iter, on the same anniversary, the despoliation of the tombs 
 f the French kings at St. Denis was perpetrated under the 
 irection of one Hentz, a representative of the people, and the 
 
202 Route 48. SPEYER. 
 
 Cathedral. 
 
 ashes of Louis XIV., the devastator of the Palatinate, were 
 
 His! aige the first to suffer what appeared to 
 
 nature, crosses, altars, prayer-books 
 
 Kings’ 
 
 % choir. 
 
 Snes Siers 
 
 aj 
 
 | 
 
 issn SSeS 
 
 cS 
 SWS 
 
 SSNS 
 YS ¥ 
 
 WS 
 Si 
 
 SSIS QS 
 
 SS 
 ss 
 
 = 
 o 
 
 Sass 
 
 SASS 
 SSIS 
 
 be a righteous retribution. 
 
 In the following year (1794, Jan. 10th —20th) the cathedral 
 was subjected to a new devastation. Everything of a combustible 
 
 &c. were burned in a heap. 
 in front of the sacred edifice, 
 while the republicans danced. 
 demoniacally round the pile. 
 The church was further de- 
 secrated by being converted, 
 into a magazine, and was 
 actually, at the close of the: 
 last century, on the point 
 of being put up to public 
 auction at a valuation of 
 8000 fr., a degrading fate 
 it was happily spared. Na- 
 poleon ordered it in 1806 
 to be rededicated to public 
 worship, but in the absence 
 of funds it still continued 
 to be used as a store-house. 
 In 1822 it was completely 
 restored by the assistance 
 of the king Maximilian, and 
 again devoted to its sacred 
 purposes. | 
 
 The crypt, under the 
 transept and choir, is in all 
 respects the same as it was 
 in 1039; the choir, with 
 the two E. towers, belongs 
 probably to a date sub: 
 sequent to 1068, while the 
 upper parts of the church 
 are believed to have been 
 erected after a fire in 1159, 
 The whole edifice is a grand 
 and massive, but simple 
 specimen of the Romanesque 
 style. 
 
 Fhe Front of the cathedral was newly constructed from 
 
 the designs of the eniinent archite 
 
 et Hiibsch of Carlsruhe it 
 
 1854—58, as well as the W. spire (225 ft.) and the Kaiser 
 rcular window in front has 
 th thorns in the centre on 
 
 Halle (Imperial Hall). The large ci 
 a head of the Saviour crowned wi 
 
Cathedral. SPEYER. 48. Route. 208 
 
 a gold ground, and in the corners the emblematic figures of 
 the four Evangelists, an angel (Matthew), winged lion (Mark), 
 ox (Luke), and eagle (John). Over the principal gate is the 
 imperial double eagle, and over the side entrances the lion of 
 the Palatinate. In the entrance (Imperial) hall under the 
 W. towers, in niches of gold mosaic, were placed in 1858 
 statues of the emperors interred in the Kings’ choir; on the 
 r, Conrad IL, Rudolph of Habsburg, Adolph of Nassau, and 
 Albert of Austria; on the 1. Henry IUJ., Henry IV. (in the 
 robes of a penitent), Henry V., and Philip of Swabia. The 
 four reliefs are by Pilz: Conrad laying the foundation-stone of 
 the cathedral; Rudolph and the priest with the host; Rudolph 
 receiving the tidings of his election to the imperial throne; 
 the same emperor taking the cross from the altar at his 
 roronation at Aix-la-Chapelle, Over the principal inner portal 
 is represented the consecration of the church to the Virgin, on 
 the 1. St. Bernhard and St. Stephen, on the r. John the Baptist 
 id the painter Schrandolph. 
 
 The entire length of the Cathedral is 475 ft., and the 
 yreadth of the body 130 ft.; the transept is 190 ft. in length, 
 ind the body of the church 100 ft. high; externally the length 
 s exactly 200 yds., and the breadth of the front 58 yds. In 
 the interior from the entrance-choir to the kings’ choir is 
 10 yds., the kings’ choir 30, and the principal and foundation 
 *thoir 56 yds. long; the breadth of the nave is 60 and that 
 4 the chief choir about 87 yds. The central portion of the 
 ‘difice is double the height of the aisles. 
 
 Two inscriptions in the church itself, over the W. side- 
 loors, are to the following effect: This house of God, destroyed 
 y fire in 1689, was rebuilt in 1772 hy the Archbishop Imperial 
 Jount of Limburg-Styrum, despoiled in 1794, again restored in 
 1820 by Maximilian Joseph I., King of Bavaria. Maximilian IL, 
 King of Bavaria caused it to be embellished with paintings by 
 Johann Schraudolph and adorned by Joseph Schwarzmann, completed 
 n 1855. 
 
 In the kings’ choir, on broad pedestals, stand two large 
 tone *Statues;_on the r. Rudolph of Habsburg, of Tyrolese 
 marble by Schwanthaler, is represented in a sitting posture 
 vith a sword in his r. hand and a helmet at his feet, as the 
 ‘estorer of peace and order after the sad interregnum. The 
 eatures bear a faithful resemblanee to a genuine tombstone 
 “€ the emperor, which still exists in the vaults of the church. 
 Che statue on the l., executed in sandstone by Ohmacht, re- 
 ‘resents the emperor Adolph in a kneeling position. 
 
 ' On the r. and 1. sides of the passage to the principal choir 
 wo reliefs, formerly in the vaults, were built into the walls 
 
904 Route 48. SPEYER. 
 
 in 1853; each contains full-figured likenesses of four emperors, | 
 partially gilt, and bearing old Latin inscriptions. 
 
 The frescoes in the nave, finished in 1852, are 32 in) 
 number, and are among the finest specimens of modern) 
 
 German art. ! 
 
 **Frescoes, executed by Joh. Schraudolph, assisted by C. Schraudolph| 
 and others, since 1845; the decorations by Joseph Schwarzmann. Nave, 
 N. wall: 1. Adam and Eve; 2. Abraham’s promise; 3. David’s vision; 4. The) 
 birth of the Virgin; 5. Her bethrothal; 6. Visited by the angel; 7. Adoration | 
 of the Magi; 8. The circumcision; 9. Mary finds Jesus in the Temple; 10. Jo-| 
 seph’s death; 11. Jesus teaching; 12. The risen Saviour. S. wall: 1. Noah’s| 
 thankoffering; 2. Moses at the bush; 3. Prophesying of Jeremias; 4. Mary’s| 
 sacrifice; 5. The Angel’s greeting; 6. The nativity of Christ; 7. Simeon’s| 
 prophecy; 8. The flight to Egypt; 9. Jesus at Nazareth; 10. Marriage at) 
 Cana; 11. Crucifixion; 12. Descent of the Holy Ghost. On the vaulted} 
 cupola: the Lamb, Abel, Abraham, Melchisedech, the manna, Isaiah, Jere-| 
 miah, Ezekiel, Daniel, and the Evangelists. S. side-choir: Stoning of) 
 Stephen; above it Stephen before the council; to the J. the consecration of) 
 the deacons and beheading of the martyr Stephen; on the wall at the back :| 
 prayer of the same saint. N. side-choir: Vision of St. Bernhard; above; 
 it, arrival of St. Bernhard in Speyer; on the r., his prayer at the altar, and) 
 under it the presentation of the banner of the Cross; on the back part of} 
 the wall: Miraculous cure of a boy; Departure of the saints.- Foun-dation| 
 choir: Mary and John; Death of Mary; Her interment, ascension and co-) 
 ronation. — ‘The coloured sketches and cartoons are exhibited in a room.above} 
 the S. baptistery (adm. 12 kr.); entrance from the S. side-choir. On the| 
 exterior a gallery without balustrades extends round the whole cathedral and) 
 not only affords a fine view of the neighbourhood, but gives the visitor an} 
 opportunity of inspecting the frescoes in the nave and choir from above.) 
 The sexton (30 kr.) acts as guide. — The crypt, restored in 1857, under the] 
 choir, is in an architectural point of view well worth visiting. i 
 
 The ancient Churchyard of the cathedral is now converted) 
 into grounds planted with trees. On the S. side of the building! 
 is the Oelberg (Mt. of Olives), a curious mass of stone, with) 
 emblematical representations in sandstone, surrounded by five! 
 insulated Gothic pillars, the whole erected in 1441. It was! 
 originally a chapel in the ancient cloisters, of which no trace: 
 is now left, and represented the garden of Gethsemane and 
 the capture of the Saviour. Near it under the trees is the) 
 Domnapf, or cathedral-bowl, a large vessel of sandstone, once 
 marking the boundary between the episcopal and civic juris- 
 diction, Every new bishop was obliged, after having vowed; 
 to respect the freedom of the town, to fill this vessel with 
 wine, which was then emptied to his health by the towns 
 people. To the E. of the choir rises from among the trees 
 the Heidenthiirmchen (Heathens’ Tower), the foundation of which 
 is ascribed to the Romans. It belonged in all probability to 
 the old town-wall built by Bishop Rudger in 1080. It contains: 
 the. bones of some antediluvian animals and relics of the 
 middle ages. In a N.E. direction from the cathedral is an 
 open hall enclosed by railings called the Hall of Antiquities, im 
 which Roman and other relics found in the Rhenish Palatinate) 
 
 are preserved. 
 
BRUCHSAL. 49. Route. 205 
 
 The Cathedral is bounded on the E. by the broad Maximi- 
 lian road; on the W. by a fine old tower called the Altportel, 
 the sole relic of the once free Imperial town; the imperial 
 eagle which formerly adorned its summit has long since dis- 
 appeared, 
 
 The devastations of the French in Speyer have left few other 
 relics of antiquity. A mouldering wall by the Protestant church 
 is all that remains of the ancient imperial palace called the 
 ‘Retscher, where 29 diets were held, from one of which, under 
 Charles V., emanated in 1529 the celebrated “Protest” from 
 which the “ Protestants” derive their appellation. The bishops, 
 who like those of Cologne were not permitted to live in the 
 town, resided up to the commencement of the 17th cent. in 
 the Madenburg (p. 193), and afterwards in Bruchsal. 
 
 From Speyer travellers may descend the Rhine in 4/, hr. to Ketsch (Inn) 
 by small boat (48 kr. and upwards according to the number of the party), 
 Whence a good footpath, traversing a pine-forest, leads to Schwetzingen 
 (p. 186) in 1/, hr. 
 
 49. From Heidelberg to Carlsruhe. 
 
 Baden Railway. By express in 1/, hr., by ordinary trains in 2 hrs. 
 Fares by express 2 fl. 42 and 1 fl. 51 kr.; by ordinary trains 2 fl. 12 kr., 
 it fl. 30 kr. and 1 fl. 
 
 _ The line traverses the wide and fertile plain, bounded on the 
 ‘E. by a low range of hills, and intersects fields, meadows, and 
 ‘small plantations, and here and there passes villages peeping 
 ‘out from among innumerable fruit-trees. The train has scarcely 
 left the station before the new cemetery-chapel, and behind it 
 the slender tower of the Kénigsstuhl come in sight. Langen- 
 briicken (Ochs; Sonne), the third station, possesses sulphur baths, 
 and near it, to the r. of the line, is Kis/au, formerly a hunting- 
 castle of the archbishops of Speyer, now a penitentiary for 
 Women. Opposite to it, at some distance off, lies Mingolsheim, 
 where in 1622 Count Ernst of Mansfeld, the ally of the Elector 
 Rrederick V., gained a victory over the Bavarians under 
 Tilly. 
 
 __ Bruchsal (*Badischer Hof, R.48, B.24, A. 18 kr.; Zdhringer 
 of), formerly a residence of the archbishops of Speyer, now 
 the seat of a court of justice held in the Schloss. The 
 eastellated building to the 1. of the line is a prison, capable 
 of containing 408 criminals in separate cells. The church of 
 St. Peter contains monuments of the last bishops of the place. 
 
 At Bruchsal is the junction of the Wiirttemberg West-line 
 wd the Baden State-rwilway, which is connected by means of 
 ‘he former line with the Wirttembery North-line (to Stuttgart 
 ‘mn 2—3 hrs.). 
 
906 Route 50. CARLSRUHE. 
 
 On the Michaelsberg, near Unter-Grombach, is situated the! 
 Michaelscapelle, and on an eminence near Weingarten the tower) 
 of the ruined castle of Schmalenstein. 
 
 Durlach (*Carlsburg, R. and B. 54 kr.), the ancient capital 
 of the Duchy of Baden-Durlach, was, with the exception of 
 5 houses, burned to the ground by the French in 1688. The! 
 lofty watch-tower of the Thurmberg, visible for many miles 
 round, commands a magnificent view as far as Strasbourg. 
 Here the line to Pforzheim diverges to the 1. | 
 
 The train now proceeds by the side of the straight high-) 
 road, planted with rows of poplars, past the old Benedictine! 
 monastery of Gottsau (on the r.), now an Artillery-barrack. The 
 station of Carlsruhe deserves a moment’s attention on account) 
 of the excellence of its design and arrangement. On the W.| 
 side stands a fine Statue of the state-minister Winter in the 
 
 posture of an orator. 
 | 
 
 ! 
 
 50. Carlsruhe. ) 
 
 Hotels. *Erbprinz, in the Langestrasse, very attentive landlord, R/ 
 
 1 fi., L. 18, B. 24, A. 24 kr.; *English Hotel, and *Hotel Grosse, ix 
 the market-place, similar prices. — *Goldner Adler, the second hotel t« 
 the 1. on entering the town by the Ettlinger Thor, moderate. Grune) 
 Hof, to the E. of the station. 
 Café-Restaurant. *Hoeck (Griiner Hof). Beek, Carl-Friedrichsstrasse; 
 beer at Kappler’s, Neff’s, ete. | 
 Carriages. One-horse, for 1—2 pers. for 1/, hr. 12 kr. To the station Li 
 meet the early train (before 6) 1 fl. 
 Telegraph Office in the Kreuzstrasse, No. 14. : 
 Military Music daily from 12 to 1 in the Schlossplatz. 
 
 English Church Service in the Chapel of the Stiftung, near the Mabl 
 berg gate. , 
 
 Carlsruhe, the capital and residence of the court of the Grand| 
 duchy of Baden, with a population of 27,000 (10,000 Rom. Cath., 
 and 1000 Jews), is situated 3 M. from the Rhine, on the sking 
 of the Hardwald, and is indebted for its origin to some 
 differences between the Margrave Carl Wilhelm and the towns 
 people of Durlach. He commenced in 1715 to lay out, the 
 grounds of the town round his hunting-castle, which soon gavé 
 place to the present palace. The plan of the town resemble| 
 a fan, the palace being the centre from which the streets 
 radiate. Carlsruhe is a quiet, clean and well-built town, it 
 which three distinct architectural styles may be observed] 
 ist: that of the beginning of the last century, —the older Frenel| 
 style; 2nd: imitations of the Greek and Roman styles; 3d: the 
 modern Romanesque (circular) School, of which the talentec 
 architect Hiibsch is a warm supporter. 
 
 The Ettlinger Thor (P1. 45) near the station, adorned witl 
 half-relief sculptures, emblematical of the union of a part 0 
 
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Schloss. CARLSRUHE. 50. Route. 20% 
 
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 the Rhenish Palatinate with Baden, forms the N. limit of the 
 town. The objects of interest to the traveller are almost all 
 somprised in the Carl-Friedrichsstrasse, which runs from the 
 ibove-mentioned gate to the palace. They present themselves 
 nm the following order: the Obelisk, with the arms of Baden 
 und bust of the Grand-duke Carl (1811—1818), with inscription: 
 io the r. of the monument the Palace of the Margrave Wilhelm; © 
 m the |. side of the market-place the Town-hall (Pl. 41), and 
 om the r. side the Prot. Church (Pl. 49), with its five Corinthian 
 pillars, resembling a Greek temple; Statue of the Grand-duke 
 Ludwig (1818—1830); Pyramid in honour of the founder of 
 varlsruhe, the Margrave Carl (d. 1738); in front of the palace 
 ‘he *Bronze statue of the Grand-duke Charles Frederick (d. 1811), 
 ‘xecuted by Schwanthaler; at the corners of the pedestal are 
 ‘our female figures, personifying the four divisions of the Duchy, 
 he whole well-designed, the statue itself being particularly 
 vell executed. 
 
 The Schloss (Pl. 1), or palace, erected in 1750, is built 
 n the form of a semi-circle, and is surmounted by the Blei- 
 hurm (140 ft.), open on Frid. from 4 to 6 p-m., whence a 
 jood survey of the town and the Hardwald may be made. 
 She dining-hall, ball-room, throne-room and other apartments 
 Te magnificently fitted up. The Court-library (Pl. 3) occupies 
 be E. wing; a Cabinet of Nat. History (open Wed. and Sat. 
 'O—12 and 3—5 o’clock) in the same part of the building, 
 Ontains among other curiosities the remains of several ante- 
 luvian animals, and a valuable collection of shells. The 
 Tell-appointed ducal stables are also on the same side. 
 | In the crescent to the W. of the Schloss is situated the 
 tourt-theatre, a handsome modern building, erected in 1847— 
 858, to replace the former, which had been burned down. 
 n the pediment to the r. are reliefs of Goethe, Schiller, and 
 essing, and on the 1. of Mozart, Beethoven, and Gluck; in 
 ae centre the Muse of dramatic Poetry. 
 __ An arched passage in the W. wing of the Schloss leads 
 » the Palace-garden, the grounds of which extend into the 
 fardwald. About 300 yds. to the N.W. of the Bleithurm, in 
 1¢ middle of a small alley, is a bust of the poet Hebel, with 
 uotations from his poetry. To the |. of the entrance of the 
 arden are situated the extensive hot-houses fitted up as a 
 Vinter-garden, containing a palm-house, pond for the Victoria 
 gia, orangery, green-houses, &. The adjoining Botanical 
 arden (Pl. 9) is open daily (Sat. and Sun. excepted), before 12 
 od after 2 o’clock; adm. to the hot-houses on Mon. and Frid. 
 nly, 9—12 and 3—5_o’clock; to procure admittance at other 
 mes application must be made to the committee. 
 
208 Route dU. CARLSRUHE. 
 
 Adjeent to the botanical garden is the *Hall of Ar 
 (Pl. 8), erected by Hibsch (1836—1845) in the modern Re 
 manesque style. It contains collections of pictures, casts an| 
 antiquities, open to the public on Wed. and Sun. 11—12 an) 
 2—4 o’clock; at other times for a fee of 30 kr. Frommel’ 
 catalogue (42 kr.) gives a full description of _ everythin) 
 contained in the Hall. The director is the eminent painte| 
 K. F. Lessing. | 
 
 The stair case is adorned by some fine frescoes by Schwind, ‘That o| 
 the wall at the back represents the consecration of the cathedral at Freibur| 
 by Duke Conrad of Zahringen; the flag-bearer is a portrait of the Granc 
 duke Leopold, holding the crown-prince by the hand, the crowned femal 
 figures are the Grand duchess and the princesses. 
 
 The collection of pictures is, on the whole, one of considerable valu 
 especially those by modern German masters, but those of the older schooli 
 among which are several attributed to Murillo, Rembrandt, Michel Angelo, &c| 
 are of inferior worth. | 
 
 The Polytechnic School (PI. 62), an excellent educationg| 
 intitution, possessing a considerable laboratory and attende| 
 by about 500 pupils, is situated near the Durlacher Thor ¢ 
 the E. end of the Langestrasse, and was erected by Hubscl 
 
 . j 
 Over the entrance are two stone statues by Raufer, of Kepple: 
 who represents the mathematical, and Erwin of Steinbach thi 
 architectural sciences. In the immediate vicinity of the Dw 
 lacher Thor, a little way back from the street, stands th 
 Arsenal (Pl. 65), bravely defended in the revolution of 184 
 by the townspeople against the insurgents. 
 
 The Finunz-Ministerium (Pl. 29), at the E. corner of th 
 Schlossplatz, was also erected by Hubsch, as well as th 
 Landesgestiit (national stud) near the station, the arrangement 
 of which are worthy the notice of those who are intereste 
 in such establishments. 
 
 The Cemetery of Carlsruhe deserves a visit on account of the taste and car 
 displayed in the arrangement of the grounds, as well as from its tombston¢ 
 and monuments. Among the latter may be mentioned the *Preussen 
 Denkmal, a handsome monument in memory of the Prussians who fell i 
 the revolution of 1849, erected in 1851 from designs furnished by the lat 
 king Fred. William IV. himself. 
 
 Railway from Carlsruhe to the Rhine, by Muhlburg to Maxa 
 in 1/4, hr.; fares 27, 18, 12 kr. 4 
 
 51. From Carlsruhe to Baden. 
 
 By the Baden Railway in 1—2 hrs. Fares 1 fl. 42 kr,, 1 fl. 9 kr. 
 or 48 kr. As the train approaches Rastadt a fine view of the Black Foret 
 
 = 
 
 may be obtained from the EK. side of the train. 
 
 As the train leaves the station, the statue of the ministe 
 Winter (p. 206) is seen on the r., and beyond it Kessler’s extensiy 
 engine manufactory. Farther on, at some distance to the Tr) 
 
| RASTADT. o1. Route. 209 
 ies the village of Budach with its handsome church with two 
 ‘pires, erected by Hubsch. To the 1, on a well*wooded 
 minence, lies the industrial little town of Ettlingen (Hirsch; 
 Krone) with large velvet and paper manufactories. 
 
 _ From stat. Muggensturm an omnibus (also diligence twice 
 laily, 36 kr.) runs to Gernsbach (p. 214) in the Murgthal, the 
 ‘aountains enclosing which bound the view to the l. The 
 eights of the Black Forest now gradually come in sight, the 
 gost conspicuous of which is the Mercuriusberg with its 
 ower. In the foreground are the ruins of the castle of Eber- 
 teinburg (p. 215), As the train approaches Rastadt, the statue 
 ‘f Jupiter on the palace is seen high above the green ramparts 
 ‘ the town. 
 
 Rastadt (*Post; Kreuz; *Lowe; *Laterne; the two latter 
 ‘re second-class houses), with a pop. of 6000, was burned 
 fown by the French in 1689, but soon after rebuilt by the 
 elebrated imperial general, the Margrave Ludwig of Baden, 
 md continued to be the residence of the Margraves till the 
 me became extinct. 
 
 _ In 1840 Rastadt was destined to be a fortress of the Con- 
 2deration, and is garrisoned by Austrian, Baden and Prussian 
 loops. 
 
 | The handsome Palace, completed by the Margravine Sibylla 
 augusta (p. 215), now employed as a barrack, the garden being 
 ‘onverted into an exercising-ground, stands on an eminence 
 md is surmounted by a gilded statue of Jupiter. It contains 
 ‘collection of Turkish trophies, taken by the Margrave Ludwig 
 Vilhelm, arms, caparisons &c., besides a number of family 
 ortraits. The tower commands an extensive view (castellan’s 
 xe 24kr.). In one of the apartments the articles which formed 
 1e basis of the peace concluded at Baden in Switzerland 
 etween France and Austria, which terminated the war of 
 uccession, were signed by Prince Eugene of Savoy and Marshal 
 ‘illars. A congress was also held here in 1797—1799, which, 
 owever, led to no result, and at its close the two French 
 elegates were barbarously murdered in the adjacent wood near 
 1e Rheinauer Thor; the pepetrators of the outrage were never 
 iscovered. 
 
 The fortress of Rastadt served in 1849 as a last place of refuge to the 
 ‘mnant of the Baden insurgents, about 6000 in number, among whom were 
 lventurers of all nations. After a resistance of three weeks, they at last 
 irrendered to the Prussian troops, July 23rd, 1849. Curiously enough, the 
 ~volution had also begun at Rastadt, on May 11th, in the same year. 
 
 : The train now crosses the Murg. Farther on, between Rastadt 
 nd Oos, the hunting-seat Favorite may be seen in the midst 
 f shrubberies. At Oos the Baden branch diverges from the 
 aain-line, and in 10 min. the latter.place is reached. 
 BarpeEKeEr’s Rhine. {4 
 
210 
 
 52. Baden and its Environs. 
 
 Hotels. *Victoria-Hotel, in the Leopoldsplatz. Baden Hotel (with| 
 baths), at the entrance to the town. *English Hotel, at the Promenaden- 
 bricke. *European Hotel, opposite to “the pump- room, These four Hotels 
 are of the 1st class; charges: R. 1'/, fl. and upwards, L. 24, B. 42, D. ine. W. 
 at 5 o’clock 1 fl. 48, A. 24kr. Russischer Hof, *Zahringer Hof (with 
 baths), Franz ésischer Hof, Hétel Royal, Hirsch (with baths), 
 Darmstadter Hof Ripe baths), charges somewhat more moderate than in| 
 the first mentioned. *Stadt Baden, immediately on leaving the station, 
 R. 48 kr. to 1 fl. 12 re ., L. 18, B. 28, D. at 1 o’clock 1 fl. 12, at 5 o’clock| 
 1 fA. 365-4. ds kr, — J Stadt Strassburg, Hotel and Cafe, at the end of 
 the new promenade, R. 1 f., B. 24, D. exc. W, at 1 o'clock 1 fl., at 6 o'clock 
 1 fl. 24 kr. — Engel, at the Gernsbacher Thor, more moderate. Bar in 
 the Lichtenthal (p. 312), 1'4,M. from the Conversationshaus, very moderate. — 
 The best wines of the country are Affenthaler (red), Klingenberger and 
 Markgrafler (white). 
 
 Cafés. Café-Restaurant in the Conversationshaus. A la Fleur, 
 near the Russ. Hof. Café de Hollande on the new Promenade, &c. Af 
 the following beer may procured: Haug, and Gorger, at the station. 
 Geist, at the Gernsbacher Thor. Krone, 
 
 Telegraph-office at the station. 
 | 
 | 
 | 
 
 Theatre. Performances in summer by a French company, in spring and 
 autumn by that of the Carlsruhe theatre. 
 
 Carriages. The following charges include drivers’ fees. Ebersteinschloss 5,) 
 or returning by Gernsbach 5'/, Eber steinburg 4, Fremersberg 3, same by the| 
 Jagdhaus 4, Jagdhaus 3, Seelach 3, Geroldsau to the waterfall 4, Favorite 
 3, Ger nsbach 4'/,, Rothenfels 4, Yburg 5, to the old castle (allowing time 
 to inspect it) and back 4 fl. (Should any of the above excursions occupy more| 
 than 6 hrs. the charge is increased by one half). EKbersteinsc’loss, Gerns- 
 bach, Rothenfels, Kuppenheim, ‘favorite 7 fl., Forbach 9 fl., same through) 
 the Murgthal 10 fl., Wildbad 18 fi., Rippoldsau 20 ‘fl. — By time::'/, hr. fox 
 1—2 pers. 24 kr., 3—4 pers. 30 kr.; 1/, hr. 36—45 kr.; */, hr. 48 kr.—1 Al 
 three 1 15 kee 2 hrs a, 48 te ae ee &e. — Donkeys} 
 1/, day 1 fl. 12 kr., whole day 2 fl. Carriage and donkey-stands opposite to| 
 the English Hotel, at the end of the avenue leading to the Conversations-) 
 haus, opposite to the Baden Hotel, and in the Leopoldsplatz. Omnibus from) 
 the station into the town 12 kr. inc. luggage, 
 
 English Church Service in the Spital Kirche. 
 
 Baden has the reputation of being an expensive watering-place, and such it| 
 probably is to those who frequent the first-class hotels, attend the numerous) 
 Matinees musicales (adm. 5—20 fr.), and are led away by the seductive | 
 attractions of the gaming-tables; but all the charms and enjoyments of the’ 
 place may be participated in without any very serious inroad being made) 
 upon the purse. The expenses of a single visitor need not exceed 100 —120 fl. | 
 per month, for Baden affords, in common with large towns, the opportunities] 
 
 of regulating the expenditure in accordance with the resources at command. | 
 A respecta ble private lodging in a good situation may be procured for) 
 6—10 fl. a week; breakfast in the lodging-houses costs 12—15 kr.; dinner at) 
 a restaurant 42 ‘kr. (e. g. at Frau Zerr’ s, Leopoldstrasse 154, at any hour 
 after 12 o’clock, price as above; or at Frau Goringer’s, in the new Pro- 
 menade, or at Buhi’s). A bath costs 12—36 kr. according to circumstances. 
 The water may be drunk in both the pump-rooms without charge, other kinds 
 of mineral water, with whey and goats’ milk, are supplied in the new pump- 
 room at fixed charges. 
 
 The visitor who wishes to spent only one day at Baden should, after. 
 devoting an hour or so the Old castle, take the following drive: by Hauwen- 
 Eberstein to the Favorite, by Kuppenheim, Rothenfels (good hotel and bath- 
 house, and seat of the Margrave Wilhelm), Gaggenau, Ottenau, Gernsbach 
 through the Murgthal, the Ebersteinsc hloss, Lichtenthat, and back to Baden. | 
 This drive, comprising the most remarkable points in the environs of Baden, 
 costs for a one-horse 6, for a two-horse carriage 8 fl., and requires about | 
 6hrs. The visitor would thus have time enough to visit the ‘‘Morning-cure™ 
 
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 in the new Pump-room (6—S a.m.) and see the “Corso” after 6 p.m. in the 
 “Lichtenthaler Allee.” The animated scene in front of the Conversationshaus 
 
 7 
 
 | does not commence till after 7. The drive may be shortened by 1 hr. by 
 omitting the Rococo Favorite (p. 215). 
 
 The pedestrian may walk from Baden to the castle of Eberstein and 
 Gernsbach in 3 hrs., and then take the diligence (36 kr.), or the omnibus 
 (30 kr.) which runs every morning and evening by Oftenau, Gaggenau, 
 Kothenfels, and Bischweier, to the station at Muggensturm, 
 
 Baden (generally called Baden-Baden, to distinguish it from 
 jthe places of the same name near Vienna and in Switzerland) 
 lies at the entrance of the Black Forest, among picturesque 
 and well-wooded hills in the delightful valley of the Oos or 
 Oel-Bach. It vies with Heidelberg and Freiburg in the beauty 
 of its situation, which is scarcely inferior to any in Upper 
 Germany. ‘The climate is mild and salubrious, and the efficacy 
 of the waters was known even to the Romans, who called it 
 Aurelia aquensis. For six centuries it was the seat of the 
 Margraves of Baden, among whom Hermann III. (d. 1190 in 
 the Crusades) was the first who resided in the old castle. 
 The new castle, immediately above the town, was erected by 
 the Margrave Christoph in 1479, but both town and castle 
 suffered so much in the 30 Years’ war, and especially in the 
 war of the Palatinate (1689), that the Margraves soon after 
 transferred their residence to Rastadt. 
 
 The town is not large (pop. 7000), but the influx of visitors 
 jis very great, amounting to upwards of 40,000 annually, and 
 €yen in winter about 200 strangers reside here. The French 
 language and manners predominate. 
 
 The Oosbach separates the bathing from the town-population. 
 The former confine themselves almost exclusively to the grounds 
 which extend along the |. bank of the stream, the Conversations- 
 haus and the Pump-room being the central points of attraction. 
 The *Pump-room (‘“Trinkhalle”) was erected in 1842, and 
 decorated with 14 frescoes by Gétzenberger, representing tra- 
 litions of the Black Forest, but unfortunately somewhat faded. 
 Admittance free. A few paces farther is the Conversations- 
 aaus, magnificently fitted up, and containing drawing-rooms, 
 lining, concert and gaming-rooms, ‘The latter are open from 
 {1 a.m. till 12 at night, and the fact that the lessee pays a rent 
 pf about 11,0007, and has besides to defray all the expenses 
 bf the establishment, will afford some idea of the extent to 
 Which play is indulged in. The shady alley which leads from 
 jhe E. side of the Conversationshaus to the English Hotel is 
 \he bazaar of Baden, which, as well as the other walks in the 
 |icinity, is the rendezvous of the gay world from 8 to 4, and 
 jluring the open air concerts after 7 p.m. 
 
 A handsome avenue, which commences near the Conver- 
 ationshaus leads in a S.E. direction to the (11/, M.) Convent 
 
 14* 
 
212 Route 52. BADEN. Pfarrkirche.. 
 
 of Lichtenthal (bar; Ludwiysbad; Grdjff’s brewery), founded | 
 in 1245 by Irmengard, grand-daughter of Henry the Lion, and 
 widow of Hermann IV. of Baden, as is recorded by the picture | 
 in the choir of the church, where the beautiful tombstone) 
 of the foundress is also to be seen. At the side-altars are) 
 the richly decorated skeletons of the martyrs St. Pius and) 
 St. Benedictus. ‘The convent has fortunately escaped the de- 
 vastations of war and the ravages of time, and is still occupied’ 
 by nuns, who pass their days in the strictest seclusion. The 
 *Todtencapelle (mortuary chapel) which stands apart in~front 
 of the church, belongs to the 13th cent., and was formerly 
 the church of the convent. It contains tombstones of the 
 Margraves of Baden-Durlach, and altar-pieces by the old German 
 master Hans Baldung, surnamed Grin. ‘The Orphan Asylum, 
 situated within the precincts of the convent, was founded by 
 the wealthy and benevolent tailor Stulz, who was afterwards: 
 ennobled under the name of von Ortenberg. The Gunzen- 
 bachthal, the second valley which diverges from the road in a 
 S. direction, is a favourite haunt of mineralogists. 
 
 The Theatre, erected in 1861, at the entrance of the 
 Lichtenthal avenue, and adjoining the Conversationshaus, is 
 magnificently fitted up. Near it is the Statue of the Grand- 
 duke Leopold, in the Leopoldsplatz, also erected in 1861. : 
 
 Among the churches of Baden the only one worthy of 
 note is the *Pfarrkirche, or Stiftskirche, belonging to the 
 15th cent., ‘in seculo VII. exstructa, in ecclesiam collegiatam 
 erecta 1453, incendio vastata 1689, reparata 1743.” The choir 
 contains *monuments of the Rom. Cath. Margraves of Baden, 
 commencing with Bernhard I. (d. 14381). 
 
 The most interesting are those of Leopold Wilhelm (d,1671 at Warasdin in 
 Hungary), the celebrated general who fought against the Turks with Stahrem- 
 berg and Montecucoli — a recumbent effigy on a sarcophagus supported by two 
 Turks; Frederick, bishop of Utrecht (d. 1517), a knightly figure in armour; 
 Ludwig Wilhelm (d. 1707 at Rastadt; see p. 209), the greatest general of his 
 time, who commanded in 26 campaigns without sustaining a Single defeat) 
 and was the companion of Prince Eugene in the Turkish wars (executed by 
 Pigal, the sculptor of the monument of Marshal Saxe at Strasburg, bul 
 overloaded with ornaments and devoid of good taste), 
 
 The handsome new Protestant Church is situated on 
 the S.E. side of the town, on the r. bank of the Oos. 
 
 The Old Churchyard, at the Gernsbacher Thor, with 8 
 statue of a Gravedigger on a lofty pedestal, contains severa; 
 well-known names, among others those of the poet Ludwig 
 Robert (born at Berlin 1778, d. 1832) and the French generaj 
 Guilleminot (d, 1840). There is also a curious representatior 
 of the Mount of Olives, with Christ praying and the sleeping 
 disciples. Above the entrance gateway is a relief (1482) 0: 
 
Schloss. BADEN. 52. Route. 213 
 
 the head of the Saviour on a grave-cloth. The large new 
 Cemetery also contains several handsome monuments. 
 
 Behind the Pfarrkirche are the sources of the Hot Springs, 
 thirteen in number, which issue from the rocks of the palace- 
 terrace, called the Schneckengarten, and are conducted by 
 means of pipes to the different bathing-establishments of the 
 town. Their temperature ranges from 115° to 153° Fahr., and 
 they yield upwards of 90 gallons per minute. The principal 
 spring, called the Ursprung, is enclosed by ancient Roman 
 masonry, and the handsome building erected over the spot 
 in 1847 is fitted up for Vapour baths & ta Russe. 
 
 A part of the old Pump-room has been fitted up as a Hall 
 of Antiquities (12 kr.), in which many Roman relics found 
 in the neighbourhood are exhibited, among others a mile- 
 stone bearing the name of Marcus Aurelius (Caracalla), stones 
 dedicated to Neptune, Minerva, and Hercules, the original of 
 the altar of Mercury on the Stauffenberg, and tombstones of 
 Roman soldiers. 
 
 The so-calied Neue Schloss, situated on a hill above the 
 town, was founded in 1479, enlarged in 1519, dismantled 
 in 1689, and afterwards partially restored. It is now used as 
 ‘a summer-residence by the Grand-duke, but contains few objects 
 of interest, with the exception of the subterranean vaults and 
 ‘rooms, furnished with iron and stone doors, sometimes called 
 ‘Roman baths, sometimes dungeons of the Vehmgericht (Secret 
 'Tribunal). There are unmistakeable traces. of ancient baths, 
 ‘but whether they owe their origin to the Romans or not, is 
 involved in uncertainty (fee 18 kr.). 
 
 From the new castle a carriage-road ascends N. to the 
 Old castle; about '/, M. from the former, at the thatched summer- 
 house, a broad foot-path branches off to the r. through the 
 fragrant fir-wood; sign-posts are placed at intervals; 1), M. farther, 
 at the Sophienruhe, a clear spring of water, the path crosses 
 the road. Another Y, hr. will bring the pedestrian to the castle. 
 
 The Old Castle, probably founded in the 10th or 11th cent., 
 was, till the erection of the new castle, the seat of the Margraves, 
 and afterwards of several of the dowager Margravines, but 
 ‘Since its destruction by the French in 1689 it has been a 
 complete ruin. The chapel of St. Ulrich, to the 1. on entering, 
 is now converted into an inn. The view from the top of the 
 tower is one of singular beauty; in the distance lies the 
 whole expanse of the valley of the Rhine from Worms to 
 beyond Strasburg (the town itself is hidden), and in the fore- 
 ground the lovely valley of Baden with its bright shining villas 
 and rich-pasture land, presenting a striking contrast to the 
 sombre hue of the fir-woods. 
 
214 Route 52. GERNSBACH. 
 
 Near the old castle lie cleft masses of porphyry, resembling] 
 in one place the ruined walls of a castle, in another a gigantic 
 tower, and in another a sea of rocks. At its. base is a good 
 broad path leading to the Teufelskanzel (devil’s pulpit, see 
 below), and another to the summit of these rocks. Sign-posts 
 re placed in all directions. 
 
 On a rocky eminence about 2 M. to the N.E. of the old 
 castle are situated the ruins of the castle of Alt-Eberstein, 
 of Roman origin, and once like the Yburg (p. 215) a Roman 
 watch-tower. An old Rhenish tradition relates that the 
 Emperor Otto 1, being unable to take the castle by storm, 
 induced the count to leave it by inviting him to a tournament 
 and dance at Speyer, treacherously intending to attack thel 
 stronghold in his absence. ‘The count being informed of this| 
 scheme by the emperor’s daughter during the dance, immediately 
 hurried back to his castle, the capture of which was prevented| 
 by his timely return. The tradition very properly ends withj 
 the marriage of the heroic count and the daughter of thel 
 emperor. A beautiful prospect, similar to that from the old 
 castle, is obtained from this point; it comprises the richly 
 cultivated lower Murgthal, with the flourishing villages of 
 Kuppenheim, Bischweier, Rothenfels, Gaggenau and Ottenau. | 
 
 The road from the old castle to Gernsbach (6 M.) leads: 
 through the wood to the S. of the old castle, and passes the 
 Teufelskanzel. About 11/,M. from the castle a cross is reached ; 
 here the path leads in the direction of the village of Eberstein, 
 and then descends to the r.; about 1 M. farther the wood to 
 the r. must be entered, and the Murgthal soon comes in view. 
 In 25 min. more the Neuhaus is reached, Hen which a broad 
 road descends to the r. to Staufenbery (114, M.), then through 
 the valley to Gernsbach (1}/. M.). From eee to Gernsbach 
 by the new carriage road by Lichtenthal and Oberbeuren is! 
 a distance of 9 M. 
 
 Gernsbach (*Stern, R. 30, B. 18 kr.; *Léwe; *Pfeifer’s 
 pine-cone bath-etab. above the village, where the path to 
 Schloss Eberstein diverges, pleasant quarters for a prolonged| 
 stay) on the Murg, a small commercial town, inhabited prin- 
 cipally by wood-merchants. The new row of houses on the r.i 
 bank of the Murg, opposite to the bridge, was built to replace| 
 those burnt down by the insurgents in 1849. Drive to Rothen-! 
 fels and the Favorite, see p. 210, to Muggensturm (p. 210), to} 
 Forbach (p. 251) in the Murgthal (p. 250) : one-horse carriage 
 to Baden 2 fl., there and back 31/,, two-horse 3 fl. Wildbad) 
 is about 8 M. distant sais Gernsbach, carriage 6—10 fl.) 
 diligence daily at 4 p.m.; fare 2 fl. 6 kr. 
 
 A path follows the stream in a §. direction, passing the! 
 
| EBERSTEINSCHLOSS. 452. Route. 215 
 
 Klingel Chapel, and leading to the *Ebersteinschloss (2 M.), 
 a castle founded in the 13th cent., afterwards destroyed, and 
 in 1798 restored by the Margrave Frederick, under the name 
 ‘of ‘‘Neu-Eberstein.” It stands on a wooded eminence in a 
 most delightful situation, high above the Murg. The view 
 which it commands of the valley to Weissenbach and Hilpertsau, 
 and in an opposite direction to Gernsbach, is magnificent, 
 and comprises a large portion of the beautiful Murgthal. 
 The interior contains a number of ancient relics, weapons, 
 armour etc., and in one of the apartments a collection of 
 pictures of the 16th cent. Refreshments may be had from 
 the castellan. ‘This point is generally visited from Baden 
 (9 hrs. on foot, 2 hrs. by carriage) by the carriage-road 
 passing Lichtenthal and Bewern, and leading through beautiful 
 wood scenery. 
 
 Half-way between Oos and Rastadt, to the E. from the 
 railway near Kuppenheim (p. 210), and 6 M. to the N.W. of 
 Baden, a large building is seen rising among the woods, the 
 Favorite, a castle belonging to the Grand-duke, and erected 
 in 1725 by the Margravine Sibylla, wife of the Margrave 
 Ludwig Wilhelm. After the death of the latter, this remarkably 
 jalented and beautiful woman, after having for 19 years 
 superintended the education of her-sons, retired to this castle, 
 where she spent the remainder of her life in acts of penance 
 md devotion. In the Hermitage in the park are preserved 
 some relics of this singular character. ‘The castle served as 
 jt residence for the Prince, now king of Prussia, in 1849, 
 luring the transformation of Rastadt into a fortress of the 
 Jonfederation. ‘The steward who lives in the park shows the 
 thateau (fee 24 kr.), and supplies visitors with refreshments. 
 
 To the N.E. of Baden rise the Great and the Little Stauffen. 
 Che former (2240 ft.) is generally termed the Mercurius- 
 Jerg, on account of the votive tablet to Mercury found on 
 he top and now exhibited at Baden, bearing the inscription: 
 N H. D. D. DEO. MERCVR. ER. C. PRVSO. (tn honorem 
 lomus divine Deo Mercurio C. Pruso erexit), The tower 
 136 steps) commands a magnificent * view (comp. panorama sold 
 tere for 24 kr.) of Strasburg, the town and environs of Heidel- 
 rere, Baden and its environs, the Murgthal &c. Refreshments 
 ‘nay be procured on the top. The road to the Mercuriusberg 
 2'/, hrs. from Baden) diverges at the Teufelskanzel to the r. 
 ‘rom the Gernsbach road, and winds up to the summit. A good 
 Walker should return by the Schaafberg or the Steinbruch 
 quarry), although the path is somewhat fatiguing. 
 
 In the opposite direction, 7 M. to the S.W. of Baden, lies 
 he ancient Yburg, like Alt-Eberstein (p. 214) once a Roman 
 
216 Route 52. ALLERHEILIGEN. 
 
 watch-tower and stronghold, and still in a good state of pre 
 servation. ‘The massive ruins, surrounded by dark fir-wood, 
 form a magnificent foreground to the picture of the broac 
 valley of the Rhine beyond. A good-carriage road leads tc 
 the castle. From Geroldsau a footpath leads by Malschbael 
 and the wooded ridge of the Jwerst to the Yburg in about 
 114, hr. From the latter to Steinbach (see below) 11, M. 
 
 One of the finest excursions in the vicinity of Baden is 
 to *Allerheiligen (see p. 254) by Achern. Carriages to be 
 had at the Krone or Adler at Achern; charges for the whole 
 excursion, 5—6 fl.; if not farther than the Newhaus (p. 254), 
 4 fl. 30 kr. Travellers who desire to return from Allerheiliger 
 to Achern (2 hrs. drive) by another road, should rejoir 
 their conveyance near the waterfall, and drive in i)/, hr 
 to Oppenau, then down the Renchthal in 2 hrs. to Lautenbach 
 and Oberkirch (* Adler, good Klingenberger wine, which is 
 produced here), and thence to the station of Appenwever 01 
 Renchen. A carriage from Achern for the complete tour costs 
 7—10 fl. Carriages from Allerheiligen, see p. 254; Mummel- 
 see and Hornisgrinde, see p. 201. 
 
 53. From Baden to Strasburg. 
 
 (Comp. Map R. 52.) 
 
 By the Baden Railway in 2—3!/, hrs.; fares: by express 3 fl, 37 and 
 2 fl. 34 kr., ordinary trains 3 fl. 14, 2 f1, 18 and 1 fl. 31 kr. Best views 
 to the 1. 
 At Oos is the junction of the Baden branch with the main 
 line. To the l. are seen the mountains of the Black Forest 
 in picturesque groups, and farther on, the grey tower of Yoburg 
 (see above), situated on a flattened mountain peak. Near the 
 second station of Steinbach, on a barren hill to the |., stands a} 
 red sandstone monument, erected in memory of Erwin, architect} 
 of Strasburg cathedral, who was born at Steinbach, and died 
 at Strasburg in 1318. In the neighbourhood the Affenthaler,| 
 one of the best red wines of Baden, is produced. 
 Bihl (Rabe) possesses one of the most ancient churches in| 
 the whole country. On the mountains are seen the ruins of} 
 the castle of Windeck, once the seat of a powerful race which! 
 became extinct in 1572. Near Bahl are two unpretending and) 
 inexpensive watering-places, the Hubbad (2 M.), with mineral| 
 springs and hydropathic estab., and the Erlenbad (3 M. from) 
 Achern), a warm saline spring of 70° Fahr. The former lies} 
 to the N., and the latter to the S. of Windeck. a 
 The high mountain to the l. of the station Ottersweier, with 
 the pile of stones on its summit, is the Hornisgrinde (p. 25 
 
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KEHL. 53. .ftoute: 914 
 
 the highest point (38612 ft.) of the lower part of the Black 
 Forest. From the Erlenbad a new road leads to the summit 
 by Sassbachwalden and the Brigittenschloss in 3 hrs. 
 
 At Sassbach, 11/, M. to the N. of Achern, the French 
 marshal Turenne fell in an engagement he had just commenced 
 with the imperial general Montecucoli, but which on his death 
 was discontinued, the French army retreating across the Rhine. 
 The spot is marked by a grey granite obelisk, erected by the 
 French in 1829, on which the marshal’s victories are recorded. 
 A French invalide has the charge of the monument, which is 
 visible from the railway; the ground on which it stands belongs 
 to the French government. 
 
 In the market-place of Achern (*Avrone; Adler; carriage 
 to Allerheiligen 7—8 fl.; beer at Huber’s) stands a handsome 
 monument in memory of the Grand-duke Leopold (d. 1852). 
 The town possesses also an admirably conducted Lunatic Asylum, 
 sapable of accommodating 400 patients. To the E. the view 
 is bounded by the Hornisgrinde. Beyond Renchen the spire of 
 Strasburg Cathedral becomes visible in the distance to the W. 
 
 At Appenweier [whence a diligence (2 fl. 48 kr.) runs daily 
 n summer into the Renchthal as far as Rippoldsau (p. 255) in 
 34, hrs.] the Strasburg railway diverges from the main line, 
 Jassing the stations of Kork and Kehl, and traversing a district 
 fendered marshy by the frequent inundations of the Kinzig 
 which falls into the Rhine at Kehl. 
 
 Kehl (*Post or Weisses Lamm; Rehfuss, R. 1 fl.; Salmen, 
 it the station), formerly only a fortified “‘tete de pont” of 
 Strasburg, possesses a handsome new Church of red sandstone. 
 
 At Kehl the junction line between the Baden and the French 
 ailways crosses the Rhine by means of an iron bridge, im- 
 aediately below the bridge of boats. 
 
 The bridge rests on four pillars, is furnished with a turning or swing- 
 ridge on each bank, and terminates at either end in a cast-iron portal. 
 ‘he pillars on the French and German sides respectively record the names 
 
 f the French emperor, the reigning Grand-duke, and the engineers and 
 ther officials entrusted with the construction of the bridge. 
 
 The train now passes the Desaix-monument (l., see p. 222), 
 Kirts the cemetery (r.) and stops at a station near the S.E. 
 ate (porte d Austerlitz) of Strasburg. It next describes a wide 
 ircuit round the S&S. side of the town and near the village of 
 {onigshofen joins the Bale-Strasburg line (comp. R. 56). 
 the formalities of the “douane” are the same at the “porte 
 "Austerlitz” as at the principal station. 
 
 54. Strasburg. 
 
 Hotels. *Ville de Paris (Pl. a) a handsome new building; R. from 2 fr., 
 me ir., B. 11/, fr.. Ds exc. W. 3 fr., A. 1 fr. *Maison Rouge (Pld). 
 
918 Route 54. STRASBURG. Cathedral 
 
 Hotel d’Angleterre near the stat., well spoken of. Vignette (Pl. 
 Grand’-Rue 119); La Pomme d’or (Pl. f) in the Rue @’Or; Badische} 
 Hof. 
 
 Cafés. *Café Cadé in the Kleberplatz; *Café Adam, or du Broglie 
 Café de l’Europe and Café de l’Univers both near the Kleberplatz 
 Café Hauswald, not far from the Railway station. 
 
 Public Gardens. Jardin Lips and Jardin Kimmerer, both outside 
 the Porte des Juifs; music and other entertainments in the evening 2 0} 
 8 times a week. The Orangerie, a well-kept garden belonging to the town 
 situated in the Ruprechtsau, about 3 M. distant, affords an agreeable promenade 
 
 Cabs or Citadines 1—2 persons for 3/, hr. 50 cent., 1/4 hr. 90 cent., from 
 the Strasbourg station to the Rhine bridge 1 fr. 
 
 Railway Station on the N.W. side of the town for the Paris, Bale 
 Mayence and Kehl lines; on the last-named line there is also a station at the 
 Austerlitz Gate. 
 
 Patés de foie gras at Henry’s, Meissengasse, Doyen, Minstergasse, 0) 
 Hummel, Schlossergasse; prices from 5 to 40 fr. according to size. Thi 
 geese’s livers not unfrequently attain a weight of 2—38 lbs. each. 
 
 Travellers whose time is limited should ascend the tower of the 
 Cathedral (see below), inspect the cathedral itself, and visit the Church oO. 
 St. Thomas (p. 221). 
 
 English Church Service in the Hotel de Paris. 
 
 Gates closed at 11. 
 
 Strasburg (Ger. Strassbury), the Argentoratum of the Ro 
 mans, formerly capital of Lower Alsace and one of the mos} 
 important towns on the Rhine, now the capital of the Frencl 
 Department of the Lower Rhine, lies on the Ji, about 3 M 
 from the Rhine with which it is connected by a small and ¢ 
 large canal. On the 30th of Sept., 1681, in a time of peace 
 Strasburg was seized by Louis XIV., and France was con 
 firmed in the possession of the city by the peace of Ryswyl 
 in 1697. Since then the fortifications have been greatly en 
 larged, so that it is now one of the strongest fortresses ant 
 the third largest arsenal in France. Garrison upwards 0 
 6000; pop. 79,000, of whom nearly one half are Protestants| 
 
 The Emperor Maximilian I., in writing of Strasbourg, de! 
 scribes it as the strong bulwark of the holy Roman kingdom! 
 and praises it highly for the good old German honesty, con 
 stancy and bravery of its inhabitants. The town has to thil 
 day a German air, and although it has been under Frenel 
 dominion for 170 years, the ancient language and. custom) 
 
 N 
 
 of the townspeople still prevail. 
 
 The “Cathedral (PI. 1) (always open except from 12 t¢ 
 2 o'clock) was first founded by Clovis in 510, but having 
 been destroyed by lightning in 1007, the foundation of thi 
 present edifice was laid by Bishop Werner of Habsburg in 1015 
 and the interior completed in 1275. In 1277 the erection 0| 
 the *Facade was commenced by Erwin of Steinbach and his 
 daughter Sabina, to the latter of whom the church is indebted 
 for the magnificent decorations of the *Portal. Above it il 
 niches are the equestrian statues of Clovis, Dagobert, Rudolpl 
 of Habsburg, and (since 1823) Louis XIV. The sculptures 
 
Cathedral. STRASBURG. 04. Route. 219 
 
 above the portal belong chiefly to the 13th and 14th centuries. 
 Phe upper part of the spire was erected by Johann Hiiltz of 
 Cologne at the commencement of the 15th cent. in the capricious 
 amd variegated modern Gothie style, and finally completed 
 n 1439. The upper part of the S. tower is entirely wanting. 
 few cathedrals offer so good an opportunity for tracing the 
 wrogress of the Gothic style from the time when it took its 
 igin from the modern Romanesque style (choir, crypt and 
 art of transept) to its highest and purest perfection (the body 
 f the church completed in 1275, and the facade of 1277 — 1339) ; 
 nd to its decline (the platform between the towers of 1363, 
 nd the top of the spire of 1439). 
 
 The entire length of the edifice is 175 yds., and the breadth 
 9 yds.; the middle nave is 95 ft. in height and 42 ft. in 
 readth. Some of the stained-glass windows are admirably 
 xecuted; the Magi with the Virgin Mary in the north aisle are 
 1odern. The pillars and columns of the interior are elegant 
 nd are embellished with statues, but on the whole the churce! 
 ‘somewhat destitute of ornament. The font in the N. transept 
 ates from 1453 and the * pulpit, richly decorated with sculpture, 
 ‘om 1486. The Chapel of St. John (to the 1. by the choir) 
 ontains a monument to Bishop Conrad of Lichtenberg, under 
 hose auspices the construction of the facade began. The 
 thapel of St. Mary (S. aisle) contains a sculpture representing 
 te interment of the Virgin, executed in 1480. 
 
 The celebrated astronomical * Clock, constructed by Schwilgué 
 t 1838—1842 in the S. transept, is a highly curious and 
 igenious piece of workmanship. Some paintings and portions 
 
 the old clock have been used in the erection of the 
 2W. 
 
 The globe beneath shows the course of the stars, behind it is a perpetual 
 Manac, on the l. a piece of mechanism exhibiting ecclesiastical reckoning 
 time, and on the r. the geocentric opposition and conjunction of the sun 
 d moon; above it is a dial determining the intervening time, and still 
 igher is shown the course of the moon through the heavens. The exterior 
 the clock attracts spectators at all times, but especially at noon. On the 
 st gallery an angel strikes the quarters on a bell which he holds in his 
 nd; higher up is a skeleton, representing time, which strikes the hour 
 /12, and round it are figures which strike the quarters and represent man’s 
 ogress through the various stages of boyhood, youth, manhood and old 
 @. Under the first gallery the symbolic deity of each day of the week steps 
 t of a niche, Apollo on Sunday, Diana on Monday, and so on. In the 
 shest niche the 12 apostles move round a figure of the Saviour, bowing as 
 *y pass. On the highest pinnacle of the side-tower is perched a cock which 
 ps its wings, stretches its neck and crows, awakening the echoes of the 
 motest nooks of the cathedral. 
 
 Two old inscriptions on a pillar near the clock com- 
 morate the zeal and piety of Johunn Geiler of Kaisersberg 
 +1510), one of the most learned men and undaunted preachers 
 ‘his time. 
 
920 Route 54. STRASBURG. Cathedral- Towe 
 
 On the Romanesque S. *Portal were erected, in 1840, statue 
 of the great architect Erwin and his talented daughter Sabing 
 The sculpturing on this portal by the latter has been skilfull) 
 renovated and deserves the minutest inspection. Above th 
 doors is represented the death, interment, resurrection an 
 coronation of the Virgin, and on the middle pillar the Saviou 
 and king Solomon. Beneath is Solomon’s Judgment, and o 
 the r. and 1. figures emblematical of Christianity and Judaism 
 There are also several statues by Sabina on pillars in the ¥ 
 aisle next to the transept. 
 
 On the N. side is the Chapel of St. Laurentius with it 
 beautiful gateway of the 15th cent., adorned with restore 
 sculptures of the martyrdom of the saints. 
 
 The *Cathedral-Tower rises in front of the structure t! 
 such a height that the spectator almost feels dizzy as hij 
 eye attempts to reach so vast an altitude. Near the r. han 
 Portal, round the corner, is a door leading to a staircase ¢ 
 easy ascent. A few steps up, the custodian dwells, from whoj 
 a ticket (15 cent.) must be procured. The visitor then ascend 
 330 steps to the platform, 230 ft. above the street, whic 
 commands a fine view of the old-fashioned town with if 
 planted ramparts and promenades. To the 1. is seen the Blac 
 Forest from Baden to the Blauen; on the W. and N. the enti 
 chain of the Vosges, and on the S. the insulated Kaiserstul 
 (p. 258), rising from the plain, and beyond it in the extrem 
 distance rises the magnificent chain of the Jura. The service 
 of the door-keeper are unnecessary in ascending to the pla 
 form, though a fee is generally expected. From the platfori 
 another staircase leads to the summit of the spire, the so-calle 
 ‘Lantern.’ The entrance to it is closed by an iron gratin: 
 which is not opened to the visitor without a special permissio 
 from the mayor. 
 
 The ancient residence of the Bishops, opposite to the & 
 Portal of the Cathedral, with terrace facing the Ill, was pu 
 chased by the town at the period of the Revolution and pr 
 sented in 1806 to Napoleon. From 1814—1848 it served @| 
 a royal residence, and in 1853 was presented to Napoleon II) 
 
 From the cathedral the attention of the traveller is ne 
 directed to the Church of St. Thomas. His way leads acres 
 the Place Gutenberg, where a handsome bronze Statue wa 
 erected in 1840 to the memory of the great printer who col] 
 ducted his first experiments in the newly-discovered art ¢ 
 Strasburg in 1436. The four bas-reliefs are emblematical ¢ 
 the power and blessing of the invention of printing in tb 
 four quarters of the globe, and comprise likenesses of mam 
 celebrated men. 
 
 ¢ 
 
t. Thomas. STRASBURG. 04. Route. 291 
 
 a ad 
 
 The *Church of St. Thomas (Pl. 10; the sacristan lives 
 t the back of the choir) was foundet in 1031; the choir, of 
 lain Gothic construction, was commenced in 1270, and the 
 ain-body of the church with its five aisles was erected in 
 te Gothic style in 1313—1330. It is now appropriated to 
 te use of a Protestant congregation. The choir where the 
 gh-altar formerly stood contains a magnificent monument in 
 arble, erected by Louis XV. to Marshal Saxe; it is the work 
 ‘the sculptor Pigalle, and the result of twenty years’ labour. 
 he marshal is represented descending into the tomb held 
 yen to receive him by Death, while a beautiful female figure 
 ersonifying France strives to detain him; at the side Hercules 
 represented in a mournful attitude leaning upon his club; on 
 e |. side are the Austrian eagle, the Dutch lion and the 
 nglish leopard, with broken flags beneath them, comme- 
 orating the victories gained by the marshal over the three 
 uited powers in the Flemish wars. The whole is an allegory 
 accordance with the questionable taste of the age, but as 
 work of art it is masterly and original. 
 
 The church also contains busts and monuments of celebrated 
 ofessors of the University of Strasburg, among others of 
 shopflin, Koch and Oberlin, brother of the well-known pastor 
 ‘that name. In a side-chapel may be seen two mummies, found 
 1802, and said to be the bodies of a Count of Nassau-Saar- 
 ucken and his daughter, who probably died in the 16th cent. 
 
 The New Church (Temple neuf, Pl. 11) which belongs to 
 e 16th cent., once the property of the Dominicans, now 
 propriated to the Protestant service, contains the tombstone 
 the celebrated Dominican Joh. Tauler (d. 1361) and some 
 rious old frescoes of a death-dance, probably of the 14th 
 
 15th cent. 
 
 Near the New Church is the Town Library (Pl. 15) which 
 Ssesses a rich collection of curious ancient works and do- 
 ments. In the entrance-hall some Roman and other antiquities 
 e to be seen. 
 
 _The square called the Broglie, after a marshal of that name, 
 ‘bounded on the N.E. by the Theatre (PI. 37), completed 
 (1821, with a Portico adorned with statues of 6 of the Muses. 
 presentations in French only, on Sund., Tues., Thurs. and Frid. 
 
 Opposite to the theatre on the r. are the residences of the. 
 efect of the town and the general of the troops garrisoned 
 re. The Statue (Pl. 38) of the Marquis de Lezay-Marnesia, 
 ‘Grass, was erected in 1857. Farther on is the Town-hall 
 1. 26, entrance from the Rue brulée) which contains a small 
 llection of pictures open on Sund., Tues. and Thurs. from 
 to 4; at other times on payment of a fee of 1 fr. 
 
992 Route 54. STRASBURG. Artillery Barracks 
 
 The Rue brulée, which runs in a §.K. direction parallel witl 
 the Broglie, has received its appellation from the circumstanc¢ 
 of 2000 Jews, who refused to be baptized, having been burned) 
 Feb. 14th, 1349, on the spot where the Hétel de la Préfecturg 
 now stands. 
 
 The University, inaugurated in 1621, once numbered Goeth 
 among its students; it was here that the great poet and schola} 
 completed his law studies and took the degree of doctor in 1772 
 It is now cohverted into an Academy, and deserves a visit 0} 
 account of its Museum of natural history, a collection of mor 
 than ordinary value and interest. It is open to the public ol] 
 Thurs. from 2 to 4, and on Sund. from 10 to 12; at othe 
 times adm. may be procured for a fee of 1 fr. 
 
 On the Place d’Armes (Parade-Platz) is erected a brona| 
 Statue to the memory of Generul Kleber, at the foot of whic} 
 reclines an Egyptian sphynx, and on the sides are two reliefs} 
 The Café Cadé is on the N.W. side of the Place, next to th| 
 Guard-house. ! 
 
 The Kehl railway-station is about 4 M. distant from Stras} 
 burg, and connected with it by a junction line lately completec| 
 In the immediate vicinity of the Porte d’Austerlitz. are thj 
 spacious Artillery Barracks (St. Nicholas) and near ther 
 the Arsenal de construction, one of the largest depots of am 
 munition in France. q 
 
 A few minutes after leaving the town by this gate th 
 traveller passes the Cemetery and catches a glimpse of the gree 
 ramparts of the Citadel, constructed by Vauban in 1682—1684 
 which lies to the l. of the road. On the other side of th 
 bridge over a branch of the Rhine stands a Monument erecte 
 by Napoleon to the memory of General Desaiz, who fell ¥J 
 the battle of Marengo in 1800. | 
 
 Junction line to Kehl see p..217; fares 1 fr., 70 and 50; 
 
 55. From Strasburg to Mayence. 
 Comp. Maps to the R.R. 52 and 45. 
 
 By Railway in 5%/,—S hrs. Fares to Weissenburg 6 fr. 55, 4 fr. 5 an 
 2 fr. 65 c.; from Weissenburg to Mayence 6 fl. 27, 3 fl. 51 and 2 fl. 53 kum 
 
 Through-passengers by exp. train are exempt from the visite of pasi 
 ports and luggage. Travellers unacquainted with the r. bank of the Rhir 
 should select the Baden line. 
 
 At Wendenheim this line diverges from the Paris railway} 
 and taking a N.E. direction, crosses. the Zorn at the Hori 
 station. The country is flat; on the r. in the distance af 
 the mountains of the Black Forest from the Hornisgrin@ 
 (R. 63. a.) to below Baden. Station Bischweiler, cloth factoriet 
 and in the neighbourhood hop-gardens, 
 
LANDAU, 09. Route. 293 
 
 | After passing Marienthal, where up to 1789 there was a 
 onvent, the town of Hagenau (Post; Blume; Wilder Mann) 
 s reached. It was formerly a free town of the German empire, 
 nd part of the walls and fortifications, erected by Frederick 
 arbarossa in 1164, still exist. The lofty church of St. George 
 elongs partly to the 13th cent. The Jarge building on the 
 + side is the prison. 
 
 The train next traverses the Hagenauer Wald, and after 
 assing some smaller stations arrives at Weissenburg (Ange), 
 here the passengers by ordinary trains must change carriages. 
 ere the Bavarian branch commences. 
 
 At Weissenburg the line traverses the now fallen intrench- 
 ents, called the Weissenburger Linien, constructed by Marshal 
 illars in 1705, during the Spanish war of Succession, and 
 ttending on the r. bank of the Lauter to Lauterburg near 
 e Rhine. The Lauter and the Bavarian frontier are next 
 ossed, 
 
 The next station of importance is Landau (*Pfdlzer Hof ; 
 yuvan), a fortress of the German Confederation, with a pop. 
 7000 (1/, Prot.), and a garrison of 4500 Bavarians. Landau 
 ‘S long been a fortified town; it was seven times besieged 
 d captured in the 80 Years’ war, seized in 1680 by Louis XIV., 
 gularly fortified by Vauban in 1686, changed hands several 
 aes between 1702 and 1713, and was under the French 
 minion from the peace of Rastadt (1714) till 1814. Above 
 > town-gates are suns (that over the French gate wears a 
 easant expression, while that over the German has an angry 
 yk), above which may be read the vain inscription of 
 mis XIV., “Nec pluribus impar.’ An omnibus runs from the 
 tion to Gleisweiler (p. 193) in 1 hr., and twice daily to 
 mweiler (p. 194). 
 
 The train next crosses the Queich, the ancient frontier 
 ween Alsace and the Palatinate, and the boundary between 
 : Vosges and the Haardt Mountains. 
 
 Edenkoben (*Schaaj, good, R. and B. 1 fl.), the next place 
 consequence, is a cheerful little town which boasts of a 
 phur spring, a grape-cure establishment, and, in the back- 
 yund, a royal villa, the Ludwigshdhe (p. 193). On an eminence 
 the foot of the Kalmit (2097 ft.) are situated the ruins of 
 | Kropsburg, formerly a nobleman’s castle, now occupied by 
 ‘eral poor families. 
 
 On a hill to the 1. of the next stat. Maikammer lies the 
 adsome and imposing castle of *Maxburg, property of the 
 1g of Bavaria. The ruins, out of which the new structure 
 S erected, were of vast extent, and some Roman remains 
 Covered on the spot lead to the supposition that one of the 
 
994 Route 55. NEUSTADT. From Strasburg} 
 
 Roman custra stativa was here stationed to command Upper} 
 Germany. The old castle is said to have been built by the 
 Emperor Henry I., but fell into the hands of the bishops of 
 Speyer as early as 1100. In an insurrection of the peasantry} 
 in 1525 it was stormed and demolished by the insurgents} 
 who, however, were subsequently compelled to rebuild it a 
 their own expense. In 1552 it was burned by the Margrav« 
 Albert of Brandenburg, but for its complete destruction i 
 was indebted, like most of’ the castles in the Palatinate, t( 
 the “most christian” king Louis XIV. | 
 
 Neustadt (*Léwe, at the station, R. 54, B. 24, 
 
 A. 18 kr.; *Schiff; *Krone) is the largest town in the Haardt] 
 The handsome Gothic church, erected in the middle of th9 
 14th cent., the choir of which serves as a place of worshij 
 for the Rom. Catholics and the nave for the Protestants, i 
 
 several monuments of the Counts Palatine, the founders of 
 the town. ‘The gutters on the roof terminate in heads of apes} 
 pigs, geese, &c., and are called by the inhabitants Hillenkinde} 
 (children of. hell). The Rom. Cath. Church of St. Ludwig, a han¢] 
 some Gothic structure, was consecrated in 1862. From thf 
 *Schiesshaus, 4M. from the station, a fine prospect of th 
 environs may be enjoyed. On the height, 1M. to the Nj} 
 are situated the ruins of Burg Winzingen (p. 192); 14, M 
 farther the Wolfsburg, commanding a pleasing prospect. A 
 agreeable excursion of half a day may be made to Mittel-Han 
 bach by carriage (1-horse 4 f.), thence to the Maxburg o 
 foot, and back; from Mittel-Hambach to the villa of Luduigit 
 hohe near Rhodt, to the watering-place Gleisweiler (p. 193), an 
 back to Neustadt. 
 
 Neustadt is the junction of the Maximilian, Ludwig an 
 Bexbach (Saarbriicken) lines, and is a favorite resort of ii 
 valids undergoing the grape-cure. 
 
 The Ludwig-railway here turns KE, and enters the gre 
 plain of the Rhine, where vineyards, tobacco and corn fiel« 
 are extended before the traveller's eye. 
 
 Ludwigshafen (*Deutsches Haus, R. 36 kr., -B. 24 & 
 D. inc. W. 1 fi.; Hotel Wolf’; Railway refreshment-room; got 
 beer at Pschorr’s), formerly the téte-de-pont of the old fortre 
 of Mannheim, scene of many a bloody contest during +} 
 revolution, and, as late as 1849, cannonaded from Mannheij 
 by Baden insurgents, is a town of very recent constructio 
 having been founded in 1848, but has already attained © 
 considerable commercial importance. The wharf is one of tl 
 best on the Rhine, and is lined with long rows of warehous 
 and magazines connected with the railway by tram-way} 
 Mannheim on the opposite side of the river, see R. 44. | 
 
fo Mayence. OPPENHEIM. 55. Route, 225 
 
 229 
 | At the next stat. Oggersheim there is an extensive plush 
 pnanufactory, after which the train passes the flourishing little 
 own of Frankenthal (Héte/ Otto), founded by Calvinists from 
 lhe Netherlands, driven out of their country by the Spaniards 
 in 1554, and who, on account of religious differences, emigrated 
 )rom Frankfurt to this place in 1562. The town is connected 
 yy a canal (constructed 1777) with the Rhine, which is 3 M. 
 listant. — Omnibus to Diirkheim (p. 190) in 2¥, hrs, 
 
 Near Worms (p. 198) the line crosses the Bavarian-Hessian 
 rontier, and afterwards passes close to the Cemetery, in which 
 , tombstone surmounted by a helmet is a conspicuous object — 
 me of the monuments erected in 1848 to veterans of Napoleon, 
 vhich are so frequently met with in the churchyards of the 
 
 arger towns on the |. bank of the Rhine. ‘ 
 
 In the distance to the |. is situated Hernsheim, with the white castle of 
 1¢ Dalbergs, one of the oldest and most respected families in the time of 
 ae German Empire. The buildings, grounds and church of Hernsheim are 
 orth a visit. In the latter many members of the above-mentioned family 
 
 2pose, among others the prince-primate Carl von Dalberg, once Grand-duke 
 
 f Frankfurt (d. 1817), and Emmerich Joseph von Dalberg (d. 1833), the 
 ‘mbassador of Baden in Paris, created Duke by Napoleon for his services 
 1 farthering the emperor’s alliance with Marie Louise. 
 
 Guntersblum (A7rone), a small town belonging to the Count 
 f Leiningen, possesses a venerable church with helmeted towers, 
 large Town-hall, and on the N. side a palace and grounds of 
 1e Count. In the great plain between Guntersblum and Oppen- 
 eim the election of the Emperor Conrad IT. took place in 1024. 
 
 Near Oppenheim (Ritter), the ancient Bonconica, the line 
 faverses vine-clad hills. The red church of S¢. Catherine on 
 je hill is a striking object; near it is the gloomy-looking 
 astle of Landskron. This very ancient town became a portion 
 { the Rhenish Confederation in the 12th cent.; in 1689 it was, 
 (ith the exception of one house, burned to the ground by 
 te French. The W. choir (1439) of *S¢. Cutherine’s Church 
 as also destroyed; but the E. portion, which dates from the 
 3th cent. was spared. It was restored in 1838—43, and is 
 yw a remarkably fine Gothic structure. A charnel-house on 
 i¢ N. side of the churchyard contains numerous bones of 
 paniards and Swedes killed in the 30 Years’ war. In many of 
 te skulls the holes made by the bullets may be seen. The 
 exton (fee 12 kr.) lives up the stair on the 1. of the S. entrance. 
 
 The Landskron, connected with the town by a wall, is all 
 tat remains of a once famous Imperial stronghold of that 
 ame. It was constructed by the Emperor Lothar, and restored 
 iy the Emperor Ruprecht, who died here in 1410. Subterranean 
 aSsages connect it with the town. The top commands a 
 dod view of the plain of the Rhine, N.E. the Taunus, S.E. 
 elibocus and the mountains of the Bergstrasse, 
 )Barprxer’s Rhine. 15 
 
996 Route 35d. NIERSTEIN. 
 
 The two modern towers which rise from among the ruins, 
 the one serving as a clock-tower, the other erected by a 
 private individual, have a curious effect. 
 
 Nierstein (* Anker) is distinguished for the careful culture 
 of its vineyards. The green vines planted on a red soil have 
 a very picturesque effect. The wine yielded by them is 
 reckoned among those of the Rhine, while that of Oppenheim 
 belongs to the Palatinate wines. The chapel of the family von 
 Herding is embellished with frescoes of some merit by Gotzen- 
 berger. On the height to the |. rises an ancient watch-tower. 
 
 On a chain of low, productive, vine-clads hills to the 1S-lig 
 the villages of Nackenheim, Bodenheim, and Laubenheim, and 
 near Mayence (see R. 35) the handsome village of Weissenau, 
 
 which forms a part of the fortifications of that town. | 
 
 56. From Strasburg to Bale. 
 
 Comp. Maps to RR. 52 and 62. 
 
 | 
 Alsace Railway. By express in 3',, by ordinary trains in 5—6 hrs, | 
 fares: 15 fr. 80, 11 fr. 85, 7 fr. 80c, Railway or Paris time is 22 min, 
 behind Bale and Strasburg time. Second-class carriages generally bad, 
 View on the W. side only. Refreshment-room on the line at Colmar nof 
 good. Return-tickets are now issued between Cologne and Colmar (valid for 
 5 days), and between Cologne and Muhlhausen, Bale and the other Swiss 
 stations (valid for one month). 
 
 A peculiar kind of wine (‘straw wine”) is made in Alsace from th¢ 
 finest grapes which are kept in straw through the winter till March, wher! 
 they are picked and pressed. The price varies from 5 to 10 fr. per bottle. 
 
 The banks of the Rhine between Bonn and Bingen ar¢ 
 scarcely richer in ruined castles than these eastern slopes 03 
 the Vosges. The railway is so far distant from the hills thai 
 the mere outlines only are visible; there are, however, se: 
 veral fine points of view, especially between Schlettstadt and 
 Colmar. 
 
 The population of Alsace clearly betrays its German origin) 
 and, though the French language gains ground in the larges 
 towns and is the language of the upper classes, that of the 
 country-people is still German, and to many of them Frenck 
 is totally unintelligible. Sermons and school-instruction ar¢ 
 German, and will probably continue so for many years, though 
 there are few children who do not possess some acquaintanet 
 with the French tongue. | 
 
 Soon after Strasburg is left, the junction line to Keh 
 and the Baden railway diverges to the 1. at Kénigshofen. After 
 traversing a broad fertile plain which yields abundant crops 0 
 tobacco, and passing a succession of unimportant stations, th 
 train approaches the mountains. 4 
 
SCHLETTSTADT. 56. Route. 227 
 
 Schlettstadt (Bock), once a free German town, was taken 
 by the French and fortified by Vauban. Over the ramparts 
 peeps the red-sandstone tower of the Miinster, founded by the 
 Hohenstaufen in 1094. 
 
 At the entrance of the Leberthal is situated the castle of 
 Kinsheim; near stat, Orschweiler is another ruined castle, and 
 on a detached peak of the Vosges, before stat, Sz Hippolyte 
 (p. 232) is reached, rise the ruins of the Hohkonigsburg. 
 
 Rappoltsweiler (called “Rappschwier” by the inhabitants), 
 the French Ribeauvillé (Lamm), is a manufacturing town with 
 ‘8000 inhabitants, and lies 8 M. from the station at the en- 
 trance of a beautiful valley and at the foot of vine-clad hills. 
 High above the town on a rugged precipice is perched the 
 eastle of Hohen-Rappoltstein, with lofty tower; lower are the 
 ruins of Mederburg, or St. Ulrich, celebrated for its tasteful 
 architecture, and Girsbery, or “Der Stein’, remarkable for the 
 boldness of its situation. The castle of St. Ulrich well merits 
 @ visit on account of the fine views it affords. 
 
 At the entrance of the valley of the Weiss, 4'4 M. to the r. of the rail- 
 
 way, lies the small town of Kaisersberg (* Krone), with a castle of the same 
 name, destroyed during the 30 Years’ war. The town was founded in the 
 first half of the 13th cent. by the emp. Frederick IL, of the house of the 
 Hohenstaufen, who were at the same time dukes of Swabia and Alsace. The 
 Church belongs to the same period, and contains some ancient wood-carving, 
 an Entombment and an altar-piece of some merit, 
 
 Colmar (Trois Rois; Clef) was once a free German town 
 and in 1474 so powerful that the inhabitants refused to open 
 ihe gates to Charles the Bold, who, by a treaty with the 
 Archduke of Austria, had become master of Alsace, the Sund- 
 Zau and the Breisgau, and was then on his way to the slege 
 of Neuss (p. 39). It has now a pop. of 22,000 and is the 
 sapital of the Department of the Upper Rhine and seat of the 
 Cour impeériale. The most considerable building is the Minster, 
 founded in 1360, but still incomplete, 
 
 The environs of Colmar possess some historical interest; 
 vere Louis the Pious fell into the hands of his degenerate 
 sons, who, after holding a deliberation at Colmar (then only 
 + farm-house), lured the army of Louis to the “red field,” 
 where the latter was defeated and taken by his son Lothaire 
 ‘0 a monastery at Soissons. 
 
 Omnibus to Breisach and Freiburg see p- 244. 
 
 The castle of Hohenlandsberg, situated on a well-wooded 
 teight, the most extensive mountain-fortress of Alsace, was 
 lestroyed by the French in 1635. Near stat. Egisheim are 
 een three ruined castles of the 10th and 11th centuries, 
 ermed the “Three Exen,” i. e. the castle of Hohen- or Dreien- 
 igisheim, with the towers of Dagsburg, Wahlenbury and Wek- 
 
 15* 
 
998 Route 36. RUFFACH. 
 
 mund, birthplace of Pope Leo IX., who was a count of Egis- 
 heim and Dagsburg. 
 
 Ruffach (Ours), the Rubeacum of the Romans, is built 
 round the castle of Isenburg, one of the oldest in Alsace and 
 frequently the seat of the Merovingian kings of France. The 
 Church of S¢. Arbogast belongs to the end of the 12th cent. 
 
 To the r. are situated the industrial towns of Gebweiler 
 and Suléz, overtopped by the Gebweiler Belchen (Ballon de 
 Guebwiller, 4417 ft.), the highest peak of the Vosges, the 
 summit of which commands a magnificent view. Beyond stat. 
 Bolweiler the picturesque and rocky slopes of the Vosges) 
 gradually disappear. 
 
 From Lutterbach a branch-line diverges to Thann (Lowe; Krone), al 
 manufacturing town with 4C00 inhab., situated at the entrance of the romantic 
 valley of St. Amarin (p, 234). The * Church of St. Theobald (1445), with its) 
 bold open-work tower (1516), is a remarkably elegant Gothic structure. The 
 most striking view of it is obtained from the Engelburg (demolished by 
 Turenne in 1674), which commands the town and the mouth of the valley 
 and whose tower, overturned bodily, lies prostrate like a giant cask, The 
 interior of the church contains some good carving, statues and fine stained. 
 glass windows rescued from the ravages of the first French revolution. 
 
 At Dornach the Thur, the boundary between Alsace anc 
 the Sundgau, is crossed, and near Muh/hausen the Rhine-Rhonk 
 Canal. 
 Miihlhausen (Ville de Paris; Lion Rouge; Cicogne) i 
 the Sundgau, formerly a free town of the German Empire 
 from 1515 to 1798 in alliance with Switzerland, and since ther 
 pelonging to France, is the most considerable manufacturing 
 town of the Upper Rhine, and has a population of 30,000, ti 
 which may be added about 7000 workmen who come dail) 
 from the neighbouring villages. The situation of Muhlhausei 
 on the Rhine-Rhone Canal is very advantageous. Its ancien! 
 architectural remains have given place to manufactories, ani 
 the antiquarian will find but few objects of attraction in th’ 
 town, with the exception perhaps of the Town-hall, erecter 
 in 1551 and restored in 1846, which contains some tolerabl’ 
 frescoes. Another relic of olden times is the picturesqu 
 house with projecting tower which adjoins the Town- hal 
 At the entrance to the town from the Railway station ar 
 the handsome new buildings and halls belonging to th 
 “Société commerciale”, containing a scientific and industrié 
 museum, At Miublhausen a line diverges to the W. to be 
 ford, whence one branch goes direct to Paris, and anothe 
 to Besancon, Dijon and Lyons. 
 
 To the 1. the Blawen (p. 247) stands out conspicuousl 
 from the Black Forest. The train now skirts a succession ¢ 
 vine-clad hills, and passes stat. Riwheim. To the 1. of S 
 Louis, the seat of the French custom-house authorities, ris€ 
 
Vosges. ZABERN. 07. Route. 229 
 the ancient fortress of Hiiningen, constructed by Vauban under 
 Louis XIV. (1679), and demolished by the Austrians in 1815. 
 The red open-work towers of the cathedral of Bale now come 
 in sight. 
 
 57. The Vosges. Northern part. 
 From Strasburg to Saarburg. 
 
 Paris Railway. To Zabern in 1hr.; fares 4, 3 and 2 fr. The 1st class 
 carriages are scarcely equal in comfort to those of the 2nd class on the Baden 
 line, Station and conveyances see p. 218. 
 
 At Wendenheim, the first station, the line diverges from 
 
 the 1. bank of the Rhine. After passing several unimportant 
 places, the rocky heights and ruined castle of Hoh-Barr 
 appear on the l.; near them the slender tower of Geroldseck, 
 and to the r. the ruin of Greifenstein. 
 _ Zabern or Saverne (* Sonne), the Taberne of the Romans, 
 afterwards the capital of the Wasgau, is now a quiet little 
 town with about 6400 inhabitants. Long before entering the 
 ‘town the stately Schloss is a conspicuous object. It was 
 erected in 1667 by a bishop of Strasburg, afterwards inha- 
 bited by the Cardinal de Rohan, also Bishop of Strasburg, 
 the calumniator of Marie Antoinette in the well-known and 
 mysterious affair of the necklace. By an imperial decree of 
 1852 the building is now appropiated to the use of the wi- 
 dows and daughters of members of the Legion of Honor. 
 In front of this building stands an Obelisk erected in 1666, 
 which records the distances (in German miles) from Saverne 
 of upwards of 100 different towns. 
 
 Near the station, on the road to the town, a pretty figure 
 of “Hora” has been erected over a fountain, with a tablet 
 on which the day of the month is daily inscribed by order 
 of the police. The road to the hotel crosses the Rhine- 
 Marne-Canal. According to an old historian, the town was 
 in 1550 surrounded by a wall with “as many towers as 
 there are weeks in the year’, but these have long since 
 disappeared, and the spot has nothing to recommend it as a 
 halting-place. 
 
 Above the town rises the tower of the old stronghold of 
 Greifenstein, and near it is the Grotto of St. Veit, a chapel 
 and hermitage constructed in a large cave of sandstone, and 
 a favorite resort of pilgrims. On the other side of the moun- 
 tain, situated on a wooded eminence, are the extensive ruins 
 of the castle of *Hoh-Barr, which appears to form a portion 
 of the variegated sandstone and conglomerate rocks on which 
 
& 
 
 230 Route 57. LUTZELBURG. Vosges. 
 
 it stands. An inscription over the gate records that the castle | 
 was restored by Count Manderscheid-Blankenheim, Bishop of | 
 Strasburg, in 1583. As late as 1744, during the war of | 
 succession, the castle was still habitable, but it has sub- 
 sequently completely fallen to decay, and is occupied by a | 
 forester, from whom refreshments may be procured. By means |} 
 of a ladder the venturesome traveller may clamber to the top 
 
 of huge and otherwise inaccessible rocks, which command a 
 
 view of the plain of Strasburg as far as the Black Forest, 
 
 and a part of the Vosges. | 
 
 The railway here traverses the chain of the Vosges at the | 
 narrowest part; near Saverne it penetrates into the narrow |} 
 and picturesque valley of the Zorn, through which the high- | 
 road, the railway, the Marne-Canal and the brook itself run | 
 side by side. The train passes bridges, high embankments, | 
 viaducts and tunnels in rapid succession between Saverne | 
 and Saarburg. | 
 
 Liitzelburg (*Jespere near the station, good beer), the | 
 only station between Saverne and Saarburg, is the first | 
 Lothringian village in the Meurthe Department, and prettily | 
 situated. On the opposite side of the brook, on a projecting 
 rock, rises the Liitzelstein, or Castle of Liutzelburg, fortified 
 up to the beginning of the last century; beneath it is the - 
 railway tunnel. 
 
 The ljine now leaves the valley of the Zorn. A handsome 
 bridge spans the stream. which descends from a valley on 
 the 1., and a second arch crosses the Rhine-Marne-Canal, | 
 which here passes over to the r. side of the valley, but soon 
 rejoins the line at the remarkable tunnel of Ertzweiler (Arch- 
 willer), upwards of 1'/, M. in length, by means of which both | 
 the canal and the railway penetrate the mountain. At the E. }| 
 extremity the line lies immediately under the canal, but at} 
 the W., it runs by the side of it. The vast fertile plains of: 
 Lothringia now lie stretched before the traveller. 
 
 Saarburg (* Hotel du Sauvage) on the Saar, which here’ 
 becomes navigable, is a small town enclosed with walls and | 
 gates (not to pe confounded with Saarburg near Treves, in 
 the Prussian dominions). It forms the boundary between the 
 two languages, French being spoken in the upper part of the 
 town and principally German in the lower. The names above; 
 the shops are chiefly German. The ancient fortifications } 
 were dismantled in 1552 by the Margrave Albert of Branden-} 
 denburg. The place would become one of the utmost im=) 
 portance in case of a war on the Rhine, and has in con= 
 sequence been provided with extensive provision magazines. 
 (Railway to Paris in 10 hrs.) 4 
 
| Vosges. SAARBURG. o7. Route. 231 
 
 The following excursion through the Vosges will well 
 repay the pedestrian; it should not however be undertaken 
 iwithout a guide (Paul Zuber at Saverne can be recommended, 
 ifee 3 fr.). From Saverne an ascent of %/, hr. to Hoh- Barr 
 ‘(p. 229), then the descent through Huger to Haberacker (in 
 \ hr.), where refreshments may be obtained at the Forester’s 
 ihouse. The ruin of Ochsenstein, above the latter, was till 1789 
 the property of the Landgraves of Hessen-Darmstadt. 
 
 The path now lies through forest, past some houses called 
 un der Haardt (3 M.), to the Chapel auf der Hueb (11/, M.), 
 then 11/4, M. down a steep declivity into a narrow grassy 
 valley, after which the ascent again commences; in }/, hr. 
 jmore a cross is reached, where the path to the 1. must be 
 taken, which in about 20 min. conducts the traveller to the 
 ‘Dachsburg. The castle which formerly stood on this high 
 and solitary rock, which commands a fine view, was destroyed 
 oy the French in 1675, and almost all traces of it have 
 vanished, with the exception of the Chapel. In the wood 
 ‘may still be seen some remains of Roman fortifications, 
 iwhere as the spot is but rarely visited, Roman relies are still 
 frequently found. 
 
 At the foot of the rock lies the village of Dachsburg, 
 galled Dabo by the French. Belated travellers had better 
 apply to the clergyman for a night’s lodging, as the inns 
 lare_ bad. 
 | The road to Liitzelburg now leads past Schaefershof (8 M.), 
 and at the Neumihl (114 M.) it enters the beautiful dale of 
 ‘he Zorn bounded by well-wooded mountains. In the middle 
 of the valley are several mills (114 M.), the way to which is 
 mdicated by a cross, and which afford better accommodation 
 chan the wretched inns of Dachsburg. One mile farther the 
 railway bridge already mentioned (p. 230) is reached, and 
 2M. beyond it Litzelburg. The finest points of this ex- 
 sursion are the Hoh-Barr, and the valley of the Zorn from 
 Neumuh! to Lutzelburg. 
 
 | 
 | 
 | 
 | 
 
 58. The Vosges. Southern part. 
 
 Four days suffice for a hasty glance at the Vosges Mountains. This 
 deriod may be most advantageously allotted as follows, the traveller taking 
 ithe last train but one from Strasburg to St. Hippolyte, which is assumed 
 as the starting point. 1st day: Hohkénigsburg, Markirch, Rappoltsweiler 
 24 M.). 2nd day: Along the vine-clad slopes to Kaisersberg (6%/, M.); pass 
 ufternoon in exploring the town and its environs; in the evening proceed to 
 Orbey (63/,M.). 3d day: Lac blanc, Reisberg, Munster, Metzeral (21%/, M.). 
 ith day: Over the Herrenberg to Wildenstein, through the beautiful valley 
 of St. Amarin to the village of the same name (21 M.). On the following 
 morning omnibus to Thann in ihr. These four days enable the pedestrian 
 
932 Route 38. ST. HIPPOLYTE. Vosges. 
 
 to inspect the most beautiful points of these magnificent highlands, generally 
 but too seldom visited. The unfrequency of the inroads made by travellers 
 upon this district may constitute, in the eyes of some, not one of its least 
 considerable charms, 
 
 From Strasburg to St. Hippolyte in 1%/, hr. 
 
 From the station of Benfeld an omnibus runs three times a day to Barr, 
 whence the *Ottilienberg or Mont Ste-Odile (2466 ft.), mentioned by Goethe 
 in his biography, may be ascended in 2'/, hrs. Guide unnecessary, as the 
 path is furnished with direction-posts. | 
 
 St. Hippolyte (Krone), a small and old fashioned town, 
 about 21/4, M. from the station, lies at the foot of the moun- 
 tain crowned by the Hoh-Konigsburg. Of the four roads 
 leading from the S. W. gate of the town, that in the direction 
 of the castle is the one to be selected; it leads at first 
 through vineyards; */, M. higher the traveller must turn to 
 the 1.; after another mile the road passes a chestnut- wood; 
 where the real ascent commences; in 10 min. the Lower 
 Forester’s House is reached; a steep ascent of another mile 
 brings the pedestrian to the Upper Forester’s House, where 
 refreshments may be procured; in 20 min. more the summit 
 is reached. 
 
 The *Hoh-Kénigsburg, which stands at a height of 
 1700 ft. above the level of the sea, is, after the castle of 
 Heidelberg, the largest German fortress of the middle ages. 
 Its huge walls of red sandstone towering above the green 
 of the chestnut-wood present a most picturesque appearance. 
 Nothing certain is known of its origin, but it has evidently 
 been the result of the labour of many centuries. ‘The lions 
 over the principal entrance are the arms of the House of 
 Hohenstaufen. 
 
 As early as the year 1462 the castle was partially destroyed 
 by the Bishop of Strasburg and the Archduke of Austria, 
 on account of depredations committed by the count; it was 
 afterwards restored, but was burned by the Swedes in 1633. 
 Since then this once magnificent pile has been a ruin, and 
 with the surrounding woods and fields is now the property 
 of a banker at Colmar. : 
 
 The footpath to the entrance leads round the castle to 
 the r., and from it a correct idea of the extent of the ruin 
 can best be formed. From the platform of the S. W. round 
 tower (to which a footpath to the 1. leads) the most extensive 
 prospect may be enjoyed; far beneath is the Leberthal; on 
 the opposite hill-side the Frankenburg; and the wide and 
 populous plain of the Rhine is seen stretching on the E. to 
 the mountains of the Black Forest and the Kaiserstuhl, and 
 on the W. to the Vosges. In clear weather the snow-clad 
 peaks of the Bernese Alps are sometimes visible; if seen very 
 
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Vosges. MARKIRCH. dS. Route. 233 
 
 distinctly, it is a sign of rainy weather. Neither the road 
 from St. Hippolyte to the Hoh-Kénigsburg, nor that from 
 the castle to the Leberthal can well be missed; travellers 
 wishing to return by the latter must take the path to the ti, 
 about 14 M. after passing the Upper Forester’s house, which 
 will bring them to the high road; 3M. farther is the Leber- 
 hal, an industrial, as well as picturesque and well-wooded 
 valley watered by the Leber (Liépure). An hour’s walk up 
 he valley then takes the traveller past Leberau (Liépvre) to 
 Teilig-Kreuz or Ste. Croix-aux-mines (good beer at Schmidt's), 
 oth busy, animated villages; 2 M. farther Markirch, or Ste. 
 Varie-aux- mines (Hotel du Commerce), the principal town of 
 he valley (pop. 12,000) is reached. 
 
 From Markirch a good high-road leads across the Bludeu- 
 erg or Bressoir (8840 ft.) to Rappoltsweiler, a distance of 
 bout 10 M. About 14 M. from Markirch the traveller may 
 ffect a considerable saving by taking the old road, which 
 verges from the new at a house on the road-side to the jie 
 nd leads by a row of cherry-trees and through a narrow 
 me, till it rejoins the high-road about 11/4, M. farther on. 
 ‘he view looking back on the Leberthal is picturesque, but 
 m ascending it disappears. Near the top is a stone with 
 oat of arms and date 1779, beyond which the road runs 
 arough the wood almost the whole way to Rappoltsweiler 
 see p. 227). The road from here to Kaisersberg (6 M.) leads 
 rough the vineyards on the hill-side to Hunaweier, 11, M. 
 irther to Rerchenweier or Rigquevihr (* Krone, excellent wine), 
 ad thence to Kaisersberg. 
 
 From Kaisersberg the traveller next turns his steps W. 
 ) Hachimette, 41/, M. up the broad valley of the Weiss. Five 
 in. after passing the last-named village, the path diverges. 
 1 the 1. to Orbey (2 M.) (Croix d’Or, above the Church), a 
 rench mountain village, where the night may be passed. A 
 Jach runs every morning to Kaisersberg and Colmar (p. 227), 
 ‘turning in the evening. 
 
 About 6 M. to the W. of Orbey, near the summit of the 
 fanite-ridge which forms the boundary between the Wasgau 
 id Lothringia, are situated two mountain lakes, the *Lac 
 lane and the Lac noir. The former, which derives its name 
 om the quartz at its bottom, is about 3 M. in circumference, 
 id is enclosed on two sides by high and precipitous walls 
 
 rock, and on a third by immense fragments of granite 
 ing in a confused mass. The Lac noir, of about half the 
 te, lies */4, M. farther 'to the S. It probably owes its ap- 
 lation to the blackish sand of its banks or to the dark fir- 
 ood by which it is surrounded. Both lakes are drained by 
 
 : 
 
Lae 234 Route 58. REISBERG. Vosges. | 
 
 the Weiss, which, united with the Fecht, falls into the Ill} 
 
 ee below Colmar. The gullies in which the lakes are situated are }, 
 frequently partially covered with snow the whole year round. | 
 
 On the W. side of the Lac blanc rises perpendicularly a. 
 iy huge wall of granite, the *Reisberg (3160 ft.), the summit) 
 of which may be reached from the lake in 3/, hr. Here the} 
 traveller is rewarded by a most extensive and magnificent | 
 view; before him lie Lothringia and a great part of the! 
 Vosges, the Black Forest and the entire plain of the Rhine.| 
 Farther S. a portion of the Munsterthal is visible, in the} 
 foreground the Lae noir, and in the distance the Alps. The} 
 : way from Orbey is not difficult to find, but it is advisable to 
 take a guide and a supply of provisions, as these desolate 
 heights can boast of no inn. From the top of the Reisberg | 
 to Les-hautes-huttes is a distance of about 3 M. I 
 Travellers who do not care to visit the above-mentioned! 
 lakes and the Reisberg can walk direct from Orbey to Minster} 
 (12 M.). The path first ascends through beautiful well-watered ti 
 Hi | meadows to Les-basses-huttes (3 M.); here it diverges to the! 
 r., by a house, across a small bridge towards a round mal 
 
 I) 3/, M. farther the path again turns to the r., ascends, then) 
 runs across a stony moss-covered field towards a cross, andi 
 finally leads to a house surrounded by fir wood (Loe: kautall 
 huttes); a short way beyond this, another cross stands at the) 
 - summit of the ridge, which is nearly half-way between Orbey) 
 | and Munster. From this point a good view of the Reisberg}} 
 and the granite walls of the Lac blanc, which seem quite) 
 | near, is obtained. j 
 The S. slope of the ridge, which the pedestrian now) 
 | descends, is barren and stony, and forms a striking contrast) 
 " to the N. side. Towards Sultzeren (good beer at Jackele’s)) 
 however, the valley is more attractive; 3/, M. farther is 
 Stossweier, and about 2 M. beyond it Munster. The whol, 
 walk well repays time and trouble. 
 
 Minster (Storch; Krone) is a busy little town of somé¢. 
 importance and very ancient origin, with a pop. of 4600) 
 It owes its origin to the Benedictine abbey built here in 66() 
 by king Childerich. The beautiful and fertile valley in whiel) 
 the town is situated is watered by the Fecht, and its inhabitantij 
 are principally German protestants. | 
 
 A most interesting walk may be taken from Munster t¢ 
 Wildenstein in the valley of St. Amarin, a distance of 14 M 
 The way to the height which separates the valleys of thy 
 Fecht and the Thur cannot well be missed, nor from thi) 
 point to Wildenstein is the road difficult to find; however! 
 
Tosges. WILDENSTEIN. 58. Route. 235 
 
 Ԥ is safer to take a guide from Miinster (21/4 fr.) or at all 
 ‘vents from Metzeral. 
 
 To Breitenbach and Metzeral the road is excellent, at the 
 sutter place there is a tolerable inn near the bridge, opposite 
 .) which the traveller must diverge to the r. and follow the 
 jalley of the Fecht for about 2 M., after which a bridge is 
 trossed and a good road leads in about 10 min. to the Forest- 
 iduse, where refreshments may be procured. 
 
 Here the path quits the main road, and, branching off 
 » the r. through the Aénigswald and across the Herren- 
 erg, follows a sort of wooden causeway made to facilitate 
 de process of dragging the timber down from the forest. 
 }fter a two hours’ ascent through the wood, the ‘Herren- 
 erger Wasser” at the top is at last reached, near which there 
 
 a shepherd’s hut; 1 M. beyond the latter is a second hut, 
 / the commencement of the W. slope of the hill, and near 
 | # good spring of fresh water. All trace of the path is now 
 yitirely lost, but by descending into the wood which must be 
 paversed for some little distance to the right, the road will 
 isain be reached. From the summit to Wildenstein is about 
 »M. Path very rough. Pedestrians desirous of taking this 
 mccursion in the opposite direction should not fail to take a 
 hide at least as far as the shepherd’s hut. 
 
 ) Wildenstein (* Sonne), a village prettily situated in the 
 yper part of the St. Amarinthal (pop. German Rom. Cath.), 
 re most beautiful valley of the Vosges. An hour’s walk 
 fove the village, beyond the Wéldenstein glass-house, the 
 hur is precipitated over a rock, 30 ft. in height, forming a 
 Piterfall termed the Bain des Payens or Heidenbad. 
 
 } In the forenoon an omnibus runs from Wildenstein to 
 esserling in 1 hr., but the valley is so romantic that walking 
 far preferable. The road passes a small waterfall. In the 
 iddle of the valley a precipitous and well-wooded rock rises 
 iruptly before the traveller; it derives its name of Schlossberg, 
 astle-mountain) from the ruined Fortress of Wildenstein, which 
 longed in former times to the Abbey of Murbach, but in 
 ® 30 Years’ war was surrendered to a French general; in 
 34 it was betrayed to the Lothringian troops, and 10 years 
 vier it fell into the hands of General von Erlach, the com- 
 finder of the troops of Weimar, by whom it was finally 
 ‘smantled, 
 
 } 
 
 | From a considerable distance the zine-covered spire of 
 Huth, situated about 3 M. from the castle, is a conspicuous 
 Hject. About 11/, M. farther lies the village of Oderen, pret- 
 jy situated on an eminence in the valley. The chapel on 
 
236 Route. js. WESSERLING. Vosge 
 
 votive tablets. i 
 
 The next village through which the road leads is Felle=) 
 ringen, and 1/, M. beyond it is Wesserling, picturesquely |] 
 situated on a hill. The latter is a place of recent origin}) 
 being a colony of cotton-spinners, and in this respect one | 
 of the most important places of the kind in France. The) 
 beautiful grounds and handsome residences of the manufacturers 
 bear testimony to the productiveness of their labour. | 
 
 The road here joins the coach-road to Remivemont and), 
 Epinal. On the W. declivity of the mountain, which here), 
 separates the Wasgau from Lothringia, on the Col de Bussang,| 
 6 M. from Wesserling, is the source of the Moselle. | 
 
 From Wesserling an omnibus runs five times a day im 
 1}/, hr. to the railway station of Thann, passing St. Amari), 
 (*Goldener Lowe), a celebrated resort of pilgrims, and the) 
 point from which the Gebweiler Belchen is generally ascended, 
 but not without a guide; descent to Gebweiler on the other 
 
 side. Thann see p. 228. 
 
 59. From Baden (or Strasburg) to 
 Freiburg. | i 
 Comp, Map R. 62. i 
 
 Baden Railway. From Baden 23/,—4°*/, hrs.; fares: express 5 fl: 21 
 and 3 fl. 42 kr., ordinary 4 fl. 36 kr., 3 fl. 6 kr, and 2 fl. — From Stras 
 bourg in 23/,—4'/, hrs.; fares: express 5 fl. 42 and 4fi. 7 kr., ordinary traini 
 5 f., 3 fl. 36 and 2 fl, 32 kr, Best views to the the 1. K 
 
 From Baden to Appenweier see p. 216. From Strasburg} 
 to Appenweier see p. 217. i 
 
 The main line continues to run parallel with, and at ¢ 
 short distance from the mountains. In the distance to the 1)! 
 on a rising ground, stands the Grand-ducal castle of Staufen 
 berg, founded in the 11th cent. by Otto of Hohenstaufen) 
 Bishop of Strasburg, and still in a good state of preserp 
 vation. 
 
 Offenburg (* Fortuna, R. 48 kr., B. 24 kr., D. ine. Wy 
 at 124) o’clock 1 fl., Durbacher wine good; * Schwarzer Adleng 
 on the Kinzig, contains a statue, by the sculptor Friedrich, 0) 
 Sir Francis Drake, “‘the introducer of the potato into Eurail 
 1586.” It was formerly an imperial town, and till the peac| 
 of Pressburg, seat of government of the. district of Ortena), 
 or Mordnau, which in ancient times belonged to the Duch}, 
 of Allemania or Swabia, while the Ujfgau, in which Bader) 
 Baden lies, was considered French-Rhenish territory. Th 
 
 Breisgau adjoins the Ortenau on the 8. ih 
 
| 
 
 OFFENBURG, o9. Route. 237 
 
 _ 
 
 ; 
 
 After crossing the Kinzig, the train passes within sight of 
 whe castle of Ortenberg, which lies on a hill to the 1. (see 
 
 )). 257). Dinglingen is the nearest station for the town of 
 juahr (Post or Sonne; Krone), one of the most flourishing 
 ommercial places in the Duchy, situated in the Schutterthal, 
 + 7/. M. from the railway. 
 
 On a high and precipitous peak, rising out of a distant 
 ‘aountain ravine, stand the ruins of the castle of Hohengerolds- 
 ck, destroyed by the French marshal Crequi in 1697. By 
 n act of the Rhenish Confederation, the domains belonging 
 0 the castle, though not comprising more than 45 sq. M,, 
 rere recognised as a free state, and their possessor dignified 
 jvith the title of Prince. By the Congress of Vienna in 1815, 
 he Princes of Hohengeroldseck lost their independence and 
 ecame subjects of Austria, and afterwards of Baden. 
 
 Kippenheim, the birthplace of the rich tailor Stulz (p. 212), 
 jossesses a monument to his memory To ther. in the distance 
 tretches the chain of the Vosges, among which the Aoh- 
 onigsburg (p. 232) is a conspicuous object. 
 
 The castle of Mahlberg, on an eminence above the small 
 wn of the same name, was, in remote times, one of the 
 seats of the old Baden government; in the middle ages it 
 elonged to the house of Hohenstaufen. The town was 
 punded by Conrad III. about the middle of the 12th cent. 
 
 Not far from stat. Orschweier, the village of Ettenheim lies 
 ; the entrance of the Minsterthal; its large old church is a 
 ospicuous object. This village possesses a mournful interest 
 ‘3 the spot where the unfortunate Duc d’Enghien was seized 
 n the night of March 14th, 1804. 
 |. Near stat. Kenzingen the line twice crosses the Elz. Above 
 lecklingen, on a slight eminence, are seen the ruins of the 
 astle of Lichteneyg, once the seat of the Counts of Tiibingen. 
 
 Near Riegel the Dreisam unites with the Elz. The entire 
 Hlain at this point was, until lately, a marsh, but the water 
 jf the Dreisam is now drawn off by the Leopolds-Canal and 
 juptied into the Rhine. The isolated mountain to the r. is 
 te Kuiserstuhl (p. 248), raised by voleanie action, and con- 
 Sting principally of basalt. Its S. and E. slopes are fertile 
 ad thickly populated. 
 
 ' The line now traverses the plain between the Kaiserstuhl 
 ‘id the slopes of the Black Forest, and commands an exten- 
 ive view of the chain of hills by which Freiburg is enclosed. 
 ‘he Schauinsland (p. 243), Belchen (p. 248) and Blauen (p. 247), 
 ‘hich, next to the Feldberg (p. 259), are the highest points 
 
 the Black Forest, are visible in the distance, rising from 
 
938 Route 59. EMMENDINGEN. | 
 
 the mountain chain in the rear of the spire of the Miinster) 
 of Freiburg. | 
 
 At Emmendingen (Post), in the churchyard, Goethe's) 
 sister Cornelia (d. 1777) is interred. Beyond the town, on) 
 an eminence to the l., are to be seen the extensive and still) 
 well-preserved ruins of Hochburg, dismantled by order of 
 Louis XIV. in 1689. | 
 Between Emmendingen and Denalingen, with its curious; 
 open-work tower, the train crosses the Elz. From this point} 
 a beautiful view is obtained of the valley of the Elz, opening) 
 to the N. E., at the entrance of which is situated the little) 
 town of Waldkirch (p. 257), with its slender white tower) 
 and ruined castle, at the N. W. base of the Hohen- Kandel 
 (3886 ft.). 1 
 
 Near Freiburg, on the 1., stands the old watch-tower of)! 
 the now completely ruined castle of Zdhringen, once the seat 
 of a powerful race, which became extinct in 1218 by the 
 death of Count Berthold V. (p. 240). The Counts of Hoch) 
 berg, as well as the present Grand-duke of Baden, are de:| 
 scendants of the Dukes of Zahringen. | 
 
 60. Freiburg and its Environs. ( 
 Comp. Map R. 62. | 
 
 Hotels) *Zahringer Hof, opp. the station; *HoOtel Fehrenbacl 
 (spacious apartments); Hotel Muller, *Deutscher Hof. Of the secon 
 class: *Pfau, near the station, comfortable house. *Wilder Mann, no} 
 far from the Schwabenthor. Charges nearly the same in all: R. 48 kr.f 
 1 fi, B. 24 kr., D. at 121%, o’clock 1 f., A. 18 kr, — *Heil. Geist, opp) 
 to the west-portal of the Minster, R. 36, B, 20, D. 48 kr. — *RoOm. Kaisel 
 for those of moderate requirements. | 
 
 Cafés. *Kopf, where beer may be procured; Gramm, by th 
 Schlossberg. f 
 
 Newspapers in the Museum, near the post-office; strangers introduce(’ 
 by a member. ‘i 
 
 Swimming-baths at the foot of the Lorettoberg; bath 12 kr. | 
 
 Carriages: //, hr. for 1 pers. 12, 2 pers. 15, 3 pers. 18, 4 pers, 21 kr.jf 
 1, hr. 24, 30, 36, 42 kr., and so on; for a whole hour 48—66 kr. | 
 
 Telegraph-office at the railway. station. 
 
 Hollenthal (p. 94). Diligence three times a day, Two-horse carriag} 
 to the Hdéllensteig and back in 6 hrs, for 7 fl. 
 
 English Church Service in a room at the post-office buildings. 4 
 
 The traveller whose time is limited should follow the street to the 1) 
 leading from the station, through the town as far as the Schwabenthor, ani 
 then ascend the Schlossberg, which may be done in 20 min. On the wal) 
 back he should visit the Minster, Merchants’ Hall (exterior only), travers) 
 the broad Kaiserstrasse, and return to the station by the Deutscher Hot. 
 
 Freiburg (in the Breisgau), situated about 12 M. distan}) 
 from the Rhine, vies with its sister-towns Baden and Heidel 
 berg in the beauty of its situation, and the magnificence Q, 
 its environs. The heights of the Black Forest, the picturesqu) 
 
 H 
 
FREIBURG. 
 
 60. Route. 239 
 
 ‘groups of mountains in the vicinity, the populous and fertile 
 jplain, bounded by the vine-clad Kaiserstuhl, and the lovely 
 Walley of the Dreisam, all combine to render the situation one 
 ‘of singular beauty. 
 
 | For nearly 300 years Freiburg was subject to the Imperial 
 fhouse of Habsburg; it suffered “much in the 30 years’ war; 
 
 n 1677 it was taken by the French and fortified by Vauban, 
 yimd was confirmed to them by the peace of Nymweg in 1678; 
 yy the peace of Ryswyk in 1697 it was given back to Austria, 
 fvas conquered by Villars in 1713, after an obstinate defence; 
 Fgain restored to Austria by the peace of Rastadt in 1714, 
 mesieged and taken by the French in 1745, and finally, after 
 ‘he destruction of the fortifications, once more made over to. 
 j\ustria by the peace of Aix-la- Chapelle. The whole of the 
 bireisgau was an hereditary possession of the house of Austria, 
 ‘‘reiburg being the capital, but was annexed to Baden by the 
 peace of Pressburg in 1806, and thus restored to the descend- 
 ‘nts of the house of Zaliringen, to which it originally owed 
 is foundation. 
 
 i Notwithstanding its antiquity it contains few buildings 
 jrorthy of note, with the exception of the Minster and the 
 \lerchants’ Hall, for which paucity it is indebted to its almost 
 pomplete destruction in 1747 by the French under Marshal 
 Hoigny. 
 
 | All the streets of the town are supplied with streams of 
 pare water from the Dreisam, which gives them an agreeable 
 veshness in summer. The pop. is 17,000, 2000 of whom are 
 | rotestants, who have settled here within the last twenty years. 
 ifeiburg is still the seat of many old and wealthy families of 
 ie Austrian nobility. 
 
 The jurisdiction of the archiepiscopal see extends over the 
 whole of the Grand-duchy of Baden and the Hohenzollern 
 Hincipalities. The archbishop is also the head of the church 
 ; the Upper-Rhine, comprising the bishoprics of Rothenburg, 
 
 reiburg, Mainz, Fulda and Limburg. 
 
 The University, founded in 1456 by the Archduke 
 ) Ibert IV., is frequented almost exclusively by subjects of 
 Haden, and is one of the best Rom. Cath. institutions in 
 ermany. The lectures are chiefly held in the New University, 
 Hrmerly a Jesuits’ college (in the street leading from the 
 Vation to the Kaiserstrasse), and the medical lectures in the 
 \/d University, not far from the new. The latter contains a 
 | ll collection of considerable value (fee 18 kr.), and in 
 e former is a remarkable Anatomical museum (men only 
 Mmitted), containing specimens interesting only to the pro- 
 Wssional visitor, but which by a strange inconsistency are 
 
 | 
 
240 Route 60. FREIBURG. Minster. | 
 
 explained by a female attendant. Entrance opp. to the mo-) 
 nument of Berthold Schwarz. 
 In front of the old university stands the handsome statue 
 of the Franciscan monk Berthold Schwarz, the inventor of gun-| 
 powder in 1340. Opposite to it is the Franciscan Church, with | 
 fine cloisters. | 
 The *Miinster is almost the only perfect Gothic church 
 in Germany, and is deservedly admired for the symmetry of! 
 its proportions and its tasteful decorations. The structure,| 
 which is of red sandstone, much darkened by age, was pro-| 
 bably commenced by Conrad of Zahringen in 1122; the tran: 
 sept and the lower part of the side-towers, which are in the) 
 Romanesque style, appear to belong to the most ancient portion) 
 of the edifice. The body of the church, the W. side and the) 
 spire (385 ft.), the finest part of the whole building, date from) 
 1236. The tower is supported by a square foundation, and 
 is of an octagonal form, terminating in a bold pyramid of the 
 most exquisite fret-work masonry. Beneath it is the principal] 
 entrance or Portal, richly decorated with sculptures; on the! 
 r. side the 7 sleeping virgins, the 7 free arts, St. Margaretha) 
 and St. Catharina; on the]. the 7 watchful virgins, and figures) 
 of saints. In front of the Portal are three columns, supporting) 
 very inferior statues of the Virgin, St. Alexander, and St, 
 Lambert, the patron of the church. 
 The designs of the older part of the edifice were taker} 
 from those of the Miinster at Bale, while those for the morg 
 recent portions undoubtedly served as a model for the con} 
 struction of the Strasburg Cathedral. The N. side of thé 
 aisle is less richly decorated than the S. side. Round thd 
 entire building are placed numerous statues of saints, pro} 
 phets, and allegorical figures in niches. The beauty of thi 
 S. entrance is unfortunately marred by a portico erected ill! 
 the 17th cent. | 
 The interior of the Munster (820 ft. long, 95 ft. broad| 
 and 85 ft. high), produces a deep impression with its magnij 
 ficent stained-glass windows belonging to different dates. Th) 
 best time to visit it is from 8 to 9 a.m., and from 11 a.m. t! 
 7 p.m., as at these times there is no service. The service) 
 of the sacristan (18 kr.) had better be engaged, as severg 
 pictures &c. cannot be seen without his assistance. The mog 
 interesting objects are generally shown in the following ordej| 
 beginning on the r. 
 
 } 
 
 South Aisle. Good stained-glass windows of the 15th cent. The for 
 Evangelists in stained glass, executed by Helmle in 1822, An old tombston; 
 with haut-relief of Berthold V. of Zahringen, the last of his line (d, 1218) 
 In the Holy Sepulchre Chapel the Saviour on a sarcophagus, with a sma} 
 
 } 
 
 i 
 
FREIBURG. 60. Route. 241 
 perture in the chest opened on Good Fridays to receive a portion of the 
 ost; under it the watchmen of the sepulchre asleep, valuable old sculptures. 
 ‘he eight small stained-glass representations of scenes from the Passion, - 
 esigned by Durer, and executed by Helmle, in 1826, are remarkable for the 
 eauty of their colouring. The figures on the carved wood-work of the side- 
 ltars are old. That on the 1. with the adoration of the Magi, executed in 
 )05, especially deserves inspection. 
 
 Choir Chapels. The capitals of the pillars at the entrance are decor- 
 ted with quaint figures of sirens, griffins, monks and women, — burlesques 
 ji) the taste of the middle ages. The stained glass in these chapels is much 
 ‘amaged, — Altar-pieces: 1st chapel. * Winged picture, St. Augustin, Anto- 
 ‘ius and Rochus in the middle, and St. Sebastian and Christoph on the wings, 
 
 Minster. 
 
 ‘y an unknown master. — 2nd chapel (University Chapel). The * Nativity 
 ad the adoration of the Magi. Next to it a portrait of a priest, in Holbein’s 
 jyle, worthy of inspection, — At the back of the high-altar, a * winged 
 
 icture by Hans Baldung, surnamed Grin (1516), representing the Crucifixion, 
 
 }) the 1. St. Hieronymus and John the Baptist, to the r. St. George and St. 
 aurentius, The chapel to the |. behind the high-altar contains a Byzantine 
 ucifia of the time of the Crusades, with silver-gilt figure of the Saviour. 
 ‘- Another chapel to the |. contains a carved wooden * Adoration of the 15th 
 »nt., in a large Gothic frame-work. 
 
 Choir. At the entrances to the r. and 1., haut-relief sculptures of the 
 “akes Berthold ILI. and LV., of Conrad III. and Rudolph of Zahringen. On 
 jie wall a quaint monument of General de Rodt (d. 1743). — High-altar 
 jece by Hans Baldung, painted in 1516, with coronation of the Virgin in 
 
 1e centre, and the twelve apostles at the sides; at the extreme sides the 
 /nnunciation , Visitation, Nativity, and Flight into Egypt. Episcopal chair 
 ichly carved. 
 
 | North Aisle. In the chapel of the Mount of Olives a stone relief of 
 se Last Supper (1805), and four small *stained-glass windows with scenes 
 tom the Passion, designed by Diirer, and executed by the brothers Helmle. 
 |. Statue of the Archbishop Boll (d. 1836), by Friederich. — Monument to 
 e Archbishop Demeter (d. 1842). Near the latter a sarcophagus containing 
 ‘nes of ancient Counts of Zihringen, transferred in 1829 from the abbey of 
 shennenbach (see below). — In the closed Chapel of St. Alexander may be 
 jen the skeleton of the saint in a robe richly embroidered with gold, silver 
 ‘id jewels, presented by Pope Innocent X. in 1650. 
 . On the W. wall are circular stained-glass windows, those to the ]. new, 
 lid those to the r. old. The pulpit, executed by the sculptor Kempf in 
 61, is said to be hewn out of a solid block of stone. 
 
 Tower. Entrance in the church to the r. by the portal; adm. by card 
 
 kr., fee for the warder of the tower 12 kr., who also shows the mechanism 
 “the clock by Schwilgué. The ascent is recommended, more for the sake 
 
 t examining the beauty of the architecture than for the view, which is 
 
 | to that from the Schlossberg 
 
 | 
 
 Opposite to the S. portal of the Munster is the Merchants’ 
 fall, erected in the 15th cent. The front rests on five pillars, 
 lrming a circular hall, above which is a balcony with two 
 irojecting towers, covered with coloured tiles and painted 
 
 v 
 
 ims in relief; on the outer wall, small statues of the emperors 
 
 if Austria &c. with inscriptions. The hall in the interior is 
 iow used for concerts, balls and other festivities. 
 
 | The Prot. Church, at the N. extremity of the Kaiser- 
 lrasse, in the Romanesque style, was erected in 1839, with 
 ae materials taken from the ruined abbey of Thennenbach. 
 early opposite to it are the barracks built by the Austrian 
 ‘overnment in 1776, and farther to the KE. the Hall of Art 
 Rhine. 16 
 
 i 
 
 >» BARDEKER’S 
 
942 Route 60. FREIBURG. Schlossberg. 
 
 and Harmony, and the well-conducted National Asylum for 
 the Blind. : 
 
 The old Gothic Fountain in the middle of the Kaiser 
 strasse, with its old and new statues of saints, knights and. 
 bishops in niches, is worthy of inspection. A second fountain 
 farther S. in the same street has a monument of Berthold-IIL, 
 the founder of Freiburg (1120), and bears inscriptions redoratil 
 the names of the various benefactors of the town. 
 
 Near the St. Martinsthor is a figure painted on the wall, 
 representing St. Martin dividing his cloak with a beggar. The 
 inscription on the gateway commemorates the bravery diss 
 played by the townspeople against the French in 1796. 
 
 On leaving the town by the Schwabenthor, a broad foot- 
 path to the 1. leads through vineyards to the * Schlossberg 
 (400 ft.), once strongly fortified with two castles, destroyed: 
 by the French in 1744, during the Bavarian war of succession. 
 The ruins of these strongholds: with their huge, massive 
 walls, rocky vaults, fosses &c., are now converted into plea-) 
 sure grounds. On the highest rock is an inscription recording 
 the gratitude of the burghers of Freiburg to the Dukes of, 
 Zahringen, who founded the town, and to their descendant) 
 the Grand-duke Ludwig. The iron indicator, supposed to 
 point to the different objects visible from the top, cannot be 
 implicitly relied upon. The view is preferred Dy many to 
 those from the castles of Baden and Heidelberg; to the He 
 lies the green and animated Kirchzarter Thal, irrigated by 
 the Dreisam; in the background the entrance to the Hollen- 
 thal; nearly. due S. rises the Schau ins Land (see p. 240] 
 to the r. of it the peak of the Belchen (p. 248), the secon 
 highest of the Black Forest; S. W. the Schdénberg (2000 ft.), 
 and in front of it the Chapel of Louetto (see “below), to 
 the W. the blue chain of the Vosges, and the Rhine. From 
 the plain rises the Kaiserstuhl (p. 243), sloping southwards 
 into a richly cultivated plain bounded by the extensive) 
 range of the spurs of the Black Forest mountains. In the) 
 foreground lies Freiburg itself with its elegant open- work 
 Minster- tower. 
 
 From the large crescent (“Kunonenplatz”) a path through) 
 a gate leads to Schaichs Schlosschen, a restaurant where} 
 good beer may be procured. This is also the shortest Me 
 pack to the town. 
 
 The *Lorettocapelle, mentioned above, lies about 1 Ma 
 to the S. of the town, and deserves a visit for the sake of 
 the view it affords of the lovely Gunthersthal, with its ancient 
 monastery, which is not visible from the Schlossberg. It was 
 in this valley that the Imperial General Mercy successfully. 
 
 | 
 | 
 | 
 
 aS 
 
 | 
 | 
 
KAISERSTUHL. 60. Route. 243 
 
 lefended his entrenchments against the columns of Turenne 
 mm 1644. 
 
 _ On market-days (Thurs. and Sat.) the peculiar costume of 
 she peasantry of the Black Forest may be seen to advantage 
 at Freiburg. 
 
 | Excursion to the Héllenthal, see p. 258. 
 
 _ One of the principal heights of the Black Forest is the 
 schau ins Land, or Erzkasten (3930 ft.), which may best 
 ye visited as follows: by carriage (l-horse 3 fl.) to the Molz- 
 Bauer, in the Kappeler Thal, in 1'/, hr.; thence on foot to 
 he summit in 2 hrs.; down in 24, hrs. to the Baths of 
 aittenweiler, where dine, and in the afternoon back to Frei- 
 vurg (3 M.) on foot or by omnibus. 
 
 Excursion from Freiburg. — Bad Littenweiler (charges moderate) 
 ies not far from the Dreisam, at the entrance of the Kappeler Thal, and is 
 dsited for the sake of its powerful chalybeate waters, which are better 
 ‘dapted for baths than for drinking. Also a whey-cure establishment. 
 
 From the baths 8. into the Kappeler valley to Kappel (114 M.), to 
 folzbauer (14, M,), then a steep ascent; 2 M. farther the road leads to 
 he r. by a cottage, and then in a straight direction for 1 M. to 4 cottages 
 tefreshments); %/, M. beyond them the path makes a_ steep ascent, and 
 _M. more bring the pedestrian to the spot where landslips took place 
 ‘a 1849 and 1855. A little to the left the path ascends the hill, passing 
 - spring of delicious water, and reaching the ridge of the mountain in 
 bout 20 min.; a walk of 10 min, more to the r. brings the pedestrian 
 > the cross at the top, which commands a magnificent view. About 
 (,M. to the is a group of houses called an der Halde, the highest 
 f which to the r. is the Rédssle, a good, clean country inn. The 
 leldberg (p. 259) is 7 M. to the E. of this point; the Belchen the same 
 stance. 
 
 _ Beautiful walks from Freiburg to the Schénberg (414, M. to the S. W., 
 irough the Ginthersthal, p. 242), to the Kybfelsen (5 M. to the S. B.; at 
 te entrance to the wood before reaching the Ginthersthal, the road to the 
 
 must be taken, see sign-post), back by the Giinthersthal and Lorettoberg. 
 onger walks may be taken to the Rosskopf (2290) ft.) N. E., and thence to 
 le Jagerhausle, or the castle of Zdhringen (p. 74). 
 
 TR 
 
 An excursion to the Kaiserstuhl may be best made as 
 
 allows: by carriage (1-horse 3 fl.) in 2 hrs. to Oberschaff- 
 ausen, at the foot of the Kaiserstuh!; with guide in 1 hr. 
 > the Neun Linden (1763 ft.), the summit of the hill, com- 
 janding a most beautiful view of the Black Forest and the 
 ‘osges; then without guide in 1 hr. to Bickensohl (good wine 
 t the “Stubenwirth”), and by Achkarren in 11/, hr. to Breisach, 
 thence the diligence runs twice a day in 3 hrs. to Freiburg 
 { fl.), or in the same time to Colmar (2 fr.). 
 _ The high road from Freiburg to Breisach traverses the 
 fooswald, a boggy, wooded district between St. Georgen and 
 Thiengen, and then leads S. round fertile slopes, raised 
 y volcanic action, past Munzingen and the St. Apollonius- 
 ‘apelle. At Ober-Rimsingen is the chateau of Baron Fal- 
 enstein. 
 
 16* 
 
2944 Route 61. BREISACH. 
 
 Breisach, or Alt-Breisach (Post), the Mons brisvacus of 
 the Romans, is situated at the S.W. extremity of the Kaiser- 
 stuhl, and is visible from a considerable distance. As late as 
 the 10th cent., the Rhine is said to have flowed round the 
 town, which was in early times a fortification of great im- 
 portance, and was regarded as the key of Germany. From | 
 1331 it belonged to Austria, in 1638 it was taken, after a 
 dreadful siege, by the Swedes under Bernhard of Weimar, 
 and was after his death garrisoned by the French; in 1700 | 
 it again came into the possession of Austria; in 17003 it. was | 
 taken by Tallard and Vauban, and in 1714 restored to the| 
 Austrians. In 1740 a change in the course of the Rhine | 
 proved so detrimental to the fortifications, that they were 
 afterwards abandoned and partly demolished by the Austrians, | 
 and in 1798 completely destroyed by the French. At a later 
 date they were again partially restored, but were again levelled 
 by the government of Baden. There is an old saying with | 
 regard to Breisach: 
 
 —— 
 
 Limes eram Gallis, nune pons et ganua fio; | 
 Si pergunt, Gallis nullibi limes erit! | 
 
 The town, now of no importance, is situated on a rock | 
 rising precipitously several hundred feet above the Rhine, and | 
 surmounted by the Gothic Munster of *St. Stephen, erected| 
 at the close of the 13th cent. The interior contains a fine | 
 old rood-loft belonging to the same date, and an altar-piece| 
 of carved wood, representing the coronation of the Virgin, ex- 
 ecuted in 1597. The communication with the opposite side] 
 of the Rhine is maintained by means of a flying-bridge. The} 
 high-road to Colmar (omnibus twice a day in 3 hrs.) leads| 
 past Fort Mortier and Neu-Breisach (Hotel de France), strongly| 
 fortified in 1700 by Vauban. | 
 Colmar, see p. 227. | 
 
 61. From Freiburg to Bale. 
 
 (Comp. Map R. 62.) 
 By the Baden Railway in 1'4,—2'/, hrs. Fares: express 3 fl. 6, and 
 2 fi. 6 kr.; ordinary trains 2 fl, 33, 1 fl. 45, and 1 fl. 6 kre 
 The course of the railway is within a short distance of 
 the W. spurs and vine-clad slopes of the Black Forest. To 
 the r. are the S. slopes of the Kaiserstuhl (p. 243). Beyond 
 Schalistadt the castle of Staufenburg (p. 249) is visible in the 
 F 
 
 distance to the 1., situated on an eminence at the entrance 0! 
 
 the Miunsterthal, which is terminated by the Belchen (p. 248))| 
 Stat. Krotzingen (*Post), The little town of Heitersheim, onet 
 
MULLHEIM. 62. Route. 245 
 
 ‘the seat of the Master of the Order of St. John of Malta in 
 Germany, lies 11/, M. from the station. 
 
 Miillheim (* Xittler, R. 42 kr., B. 20 kr., at the station; 
 ‘Engel, Krone in the town), celebrated for the Markgrafler 
 wine which is here produced, especially from the vineyards 
 near Auggen, and on the slopes of the hills as far as Grenz- 
 ach, above Bale. Omnibus to Badenweiler (see below) on the 
 ‘arrival of every train, in */, hr., fare 36 kr. Travellers 
 who arrive late in the evening are recommended to pass the 
 night at Millheim, as the hotels at Badenweiler are occasion- 
 ally full. 
 
 To the W. of Millheim, 1'/, M. from the station, lies Neuenburg, on the 
 Rhine, besieged in 1633—34 by Bernhard von Weimar, who here ended his 
 ‘heroic career, not without suspicion of poison. 
 
 _ At Schliengen (* Krone) the line approaches the Rhine, 
 which is here divided into several arms by fertile islands. 
 Near the stat. Kleinkembs it runs close to the river, and 
 penetrates the “Jsteiner Klotz,” a limestone cliff immediately 
 ‘overhanging the water. The short distance between Bellingen 
 and LEfringen is remarkable for the windings of the line, 
 which here runs along an embankment high above the Rhine. 
 ‘At Eimeldingen (825 ft.) the train crosses the Kander (p. 247), 
 ‘beyond which a splendid view is suddenly disclosed of the 
 teourse of the Rhine, Alsace, and the Jura beyond Bale. Near 
 tthe stat. Leopoldshéhe lies the old fortress of Huningen, on 
 ‘the opposite bank of the river. The terminus at Klein-Basel 
 is °/, M. from the Rhine-bridge, to which a broad street leads 
 jdirect, and 2 M. from the Swiss central-station at Bale. 
 #6 Bale, see R. 64. 
 
 | 
 | 
 i 
 | 
 
 | 62. Badenweiler and its Environs. 
 
 Biirgeln, Blauen, Belchen, Minsterthal. 
 
 Hotels. *RoOmerhaus, R. 48 kr., B. 24 kr., D. 1 fl. 12 kr. *Stadt 
 Carlsruhe, R. 40 kr., B. 20 kr., D. incl. W. 1 fl. 12 kr. — Badischer 
 Hof, moderate. — Single travellers may find good and cheap accommodation 
 jat the Ochs and Wilder Mann at Oberweiler, a village at the foot of the 
 \Badenweiler hill, or at the Lowe and Schwan at Niederweiler, on the 
 }road to Millheim. Good wine and refreshments in the inn at Végisheim, 
 /a village between Millheim and Auggen, and 4 M, from Badenweiler, with 
 ' which it is connected by a shady walk. 
 Omnibus from the station at Millheim to Badenweiler in 1 hr., but the 
 | distance may be walked in nearly the same time, as the road ascends the 
 | whole way. Those who wish to employ the omnibus are recommended to 
 yengage a seat immediately on leaving the train, 
 Donkeys at Badenweiler: to the station 40 kr., Blauen 1 fl. 20 kr, Bel- 
 ‘ehen 3 fl., Biirgeln 1 fl, 20 kr,, Kandern 1 fl. 48 kr., Sophienruhe 18 kr., 
 \Alte-Mann 24 kr. 
 Holly walking-sticks, carved, at Noll’s, in Oberweiler. 
 
246 Route 62. BADENWEILER. 
 
 Badenweiler, situated on the W. spurs of the Black 
 Forest, 1314 ft. above the level of the sea, and 695 ft. above 
 the Rhine, commands an extensive view of the vast plain of 
 the Rhine as far as the Vosges. This pleasant little watering- 
 place was until recently but little frequented, except by the | 
 inhabitants of the neighbouring towns, but has of late lost 
 much of its pristine simplicity (800 patients in 1863). | 
 
 The principal rendez-vons of the gay world is the *Cur-| 
 saal, which contains concert, ball, drawing and reading-rooms. | 
 In front of this edifice stands a small fountain with two bas- 
 reliefs of Jesus and the Samaritan woman, and Moses striking 
 the rock. One pipe yields thermal (82° Fahr.), and the other 
 common water. At the back of the Cursaal is a * Restaurant, 
 where a band plays in the morning and evening, and where | 
 the keys of the Roman baths are kept. 
 
 Adjoining the Cursaal is a small *Park extending up the 
 hill, which is surmounted by the ruins of the Castle, origin- 
 ally built by the Romans for the protection of the baths 
 below, and destroyed by the French in 1688. The fragments 
 of the walls are completely enveloped in ivy; view magnificent, 
 
 That the springs were known to the Romans was proved 
 in 1784 by the discovery of the *Roman baths (fee 12 kr.), 
 which are in good preservation, and are among the finest 
 specimens known. Their entire length is 324 ft., breadth 
 100 ft., and the partitions, flooring, steps &c. are all well 
 preserved. The larger apartments all contain two baths, cold 
 baths (frigidaria) 33 by 21 ft., and warm (tepidaria) 29 by 
 25 ft.; there are also vapour baths (Jaconica), vestibules (atria), 
 anointing-rooms (unctoria) &e. An inscription on the altar 
 records that the baths were dedicated to ‘Diana Abnob(a),” or 
 the Diana of the Abnoba, or Black Forest mountains. | 
 
 The environs of Badenweiler afford the most delightful 
 *sylvan walks. A signpost on the Kandern road, immediately 
 at the back of the village, indicates the way to the Sophien- 
 ruhe; the traveller ascends the hill in about 17 min. to the | 
 crescent, then to the ]., in 2 min, more to the ]. again, and | 
 then, slightly descending to the 1., a few hundred steps farther 
 
 the *Sophienruhe is reached. It is a large open space on 
 the outskirts of the wood, in a S. E. direction from Baden 
 weiler, and about 200 ft. above the village; the view is still 
 more picturesque than that from the old castle, which 
 forms with Badenweiler itself a beautiful foreground to the 
 landscape. | 
 
 On returning, 2 min. from the Sophienruhe, a good broad | 
 path ascends to the *Alter Mann (?/, M.), a rocky eleva- | 
 tion, accessible only by bridges and steps, about 100 ft. 
 
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BURGELN. 62. Route. 247 
 
 higher than the Sophienruhe; view similar, with wooded fore- 
 ground. 
 
 A path across the bridge descends to the Haus Baden, a 
 iminers’ tavern (*/, M.), whence the pedestrian may either re- 
 turn to Badenweiler, or continue his walk to Burgeln, which 
 lies 5 M. to the S. By attending to the following directions, 
 the road cannot be missed; but to prevent all possibility of 
 mistake, a boy should be taken from Badenweiler (30 kr.) to 
 the Sophienruhe, Alter Mann and Burgeln. Donkey 1 fl. 20 kr. 
 
 Between the houses of Haus-Baden a narrow path leads in about 4 min. 
 to the carriage-road, at the side of which are gypsum mines. Immediately 
 after passing them, the turning to the r. must be taken; '/, M. farther Seh- 
 ringen is reached (1'4, M. from Badenweiler), where the path joins the 
 Badenweiler and Burgeln road. The latter is little better than a cart-track, 
 and leads chiefly through wood; 1'/ M. farther is a signpost indicating the 
 direction of Biirgeln to the 1.; 14, M. beyond the post, the cart-road is 
 erossed by the path which leads into a thick wood, and in 7 min. another 
 signpost is reached, where however the direction must not be changed; 1M. 
 more brings the pedestrian to another signpost, 1 M. beyond which another 
 is reached, indicating the way to the Blauen (6 M.), and to the r. ata 
 sharp angle to Birgeln ('/, M.). 
 
 *Burgeln (2250), commonly called the Birgler Schloss 
 ‘Inn, moderate), was formerly a branch of the large and 
 wealthy Benedictine foundation of St. Blasien (p. 262) in the 
 Black Forest. The stag, the arms of St. Blasian, still serves 
 las a weather-cock. It is most beautifully situated to the S., 
 and almost at the foot of the Blauen, commanding a magni- 
 ficent view, similar to that from the Blauen (see below), 
 though less extensive. To the E. is seen the chain of 
 mountains which bound the Wiesenthal (p. 260), S. E. the 
 isnow-clad Alps from the Scheerhorn to the Jungfrau (comp. 
 p. 248), in front of them the Jura, and in the foreground well- 
 wooded heights, on the most considerable of which Kandern 
 ‘see below) is situated; a little farther back are Bale, Hunin- 
 gen with bridge of boats, Mihlhausen and the Rhine-Rhone 
 canal, glimpses of the Rhine, and to the W. the long chain 
 of the Vosges. The interior of the castle and church may 
 be visited, but they contain few objects of interest. 
 
 Schliengen (p. 245), the nearest station, lies 6 M. to the 
 W. of Burgeln. Or the road may be taken to Kandern 
 (1087 ft.) (Blume; Ochs; good beer at Ktimmich’s), 3'/, M. 
 distant, and thence to Bale 13 M.; or, as the road is unin- 
 teresting, by carriage from Kandern to Bale (4 fl.). 
 
 The ascent of the *Blauen (3589 ft.), one of the five 
 highest points of the Black Forest, at the N. base of which 
 Badenweiler lies, is one of the easiest and most beautiful ex- 
 eursions from the latter place (donkey 1 fl. 20 kr.). The 
 broad carriage-road through fir-woods cannot be missed, 
 and the summit may easily be reached in 2 hrs. The Blauen 
 
248 Route 62. BELCHEN. | 
 
 is the nearest to the Rhine of all the peaks of the Black) 
 Forest, and the course of the river from Bale to the Kaiser-| 
 stuhl lies before the spectator. Four different mountain chains 1 
 are visible to the naked eye, to the E. the Black Forest, to} 
 the W. the Vosges, to the S. the Jura, and in clear weather), 
 the snow-clad chain of the Alps in the following order: S.E.) 
 the broad back of the Glarnisch, the Tédi and the two-peaked| 
 Scheerhorn, beyond these the summit of the Titlis, farther) 
 S., one behind the other, are the Wetterhérner, Schreckhorner), 
 and the Finsteraarhorn, next the Eiger, Ménch, the Jungfrau,) 
 Bliimlisalp, Altels, and finally to the W. the jagged Diablerets, | 
 Mont Blane and the Dent du Midi. Schloss Burgeln (p. 247)} 
 is 5 M. from the summit of the Blauen. i 
 
 The excursion to the Belchen and Miinsterthal requires an), 
 entire day. To the summit of the former is a walk of 41, } 
 hrs., down to Neumuhl 2 hrs., thence to stat. Krotzingen om) 
 foot in 3 hrs., or by carriage in 1%, hr. Guide from Baden- 
 weiler to the Belchen not absolutely necessary, but desirable.) 
 Donkey 3 fl. | 
 
 The view is still grander than that from the Blauen, as it 
 comprises the beautiful Miunsterthal, Wiesenthal, and other 
 valleys which are not visible from the latter. | 
 
 From Badenweiler to the Belchen by a good road in an i. direc-j 
 tion; after 144 M. to the r. in the wood; %/, M. on the carriage-road in the} 
 valley to the village of Schweighof; then the broad road which ascends atj 
 first gently, and afterwards rapidly, through woods and rocky landscapes, § 
 leads to Sirnitz (4 M.), a forester’s house (Zum Awerhahn) in a green dale, } 
 where refreshments may be procured. The same broad road must still bey 
 followed; it ascends in !/ hr. to the ridge from which the Belchen rises, then) 
 descends to the other side to the houses called an der Halde (1 M.), where) 
 the carriage-road must be left. Up to this point a guide is quite unnecessary, | 
 but the path now becomes more difficult to trace. By carefully attending to! 
 the following directions, however, the pedestrian may safely venture alone,} 
 if the weather be tolerably clear. ) 
 
 In 25 min. the wood is entered, and in 15 min. more a small open spot, 
 is reached; here at the boundary-stone the path is crossed by the road leading | 
 from the Minsterthal to Newenweg. The narrow path now leads straight on, | 
 keeping the peak of the Belchen quite to the ]., and ascends the narrow) 
 mountain ridge. In 10 min. more an open grass-plot on the N. slope of the 
 ridge is reached. Here the pedestrian must turn to the J., and ascend by} 
 the fence in the direction of the two mountain peaks (Hochkelch). At the} 
 end of the enclosure it must be crossed, and the steep hill close past thel 
 two peaks ascended; in 20 min. more level ground is reached; in 10 min-/ 
 the ridge which connects the Hochkelch with the Belchen is then arrived at,| 
 a boundary-stone is passed, and in 25 min. more the cross on the summit is | 
 attained. " 
 
 The *Belchen (4356 ft.) commands a most extensive and| 
 magnificent view of the surrounding valleys, ‘especially thet 
 picturesque animated Minsterthal to the N.W. and the Wiesen-| 
 thal to the S. The distant view is the same as that from the} 
 Blauen, with the exception that the nearer part of the valley} 
 
 of the Rhine is concealed. 
 
 (9 
 f 
 
MUNSTERTHAL. 63, Route. 249 
 
 From the Belchen into the Miinsterthal. The row of boundary- 
 tones to the N. of the cross must be followed, and in 2 or 3 min. a good 
 eh is reached, which winds down over bilberry-clad slopes, and leads in 
 15 min. to the Sennhiitte in der Krinne (3470 ft.), where refreshments ma 
 | ‘ r , ? y 
 ‘ve procured. The Sennhiitte must now be left about 100 paces to the r., and 
 he stony road to the 1]. descends through wood into the valley, the bottom of 
 ‘vhich is reached in 50 min. Then through the valley, past some silver mines 
 ‘nd stamping mill, worked by av English company, to Newmdéhi in 25 min., 
 iyhere at the *Krone inn a one-horse carriage may be had to Krotzingen 
 19 M.) for 3 fl. 
 
 The Miinsterthal is at the top narrow, but gradually 
 ‘videns towards the mouth. It is a well-populated valley, 
 irrigated by the Neuwmagen Bach, but is not sufiiciently at- 
 | Tactive to induce thé traveller to traverse it on foot. At the 
 inouth of the valley, 6 M. from Newmiuhi and 3 M. from 
 \Srotzingen, lies the small and ancient town of Staufen (*Ba- 
 ilischer Hof), overtopped by the ruins of the Staufenburg, seat 
 bf a powerful race which became extinct in 1602. The vineyards 
 jwhich occupy the hill produce the “Burghalder” wine. 
 > ° . 
 | Between Staufen and stat. Krotzingen an omnibus runs 
 jeveral times a day. Conveyances to be had at the * Badischer 
 Hof, near the station. 
 
 63. The Black Forest (Laden portion.) 
 
 Pedestrian tour of ten days from Baden, 1st day. Eberstein- 
 lichloss (p. 215), Forbach, Schénmunzach (p. 251). — 2nd. Hornisgrinde, 
 Mummelsee (p. 251), Allerheiligen. — 3rd, Oppenau, by carriage to Gries- 
 pach, Holzwalderhéhe, Rippoldsau, Schapbach (p. 255). — 4th. Wolfach, 
 jTornberg, Tryberg (p. 256). — 5th. Furtwangen, Simonswald, Waldkireh 
 p. 257). — 6th. By carriage and railway to Freiburg. — 7th. (Carriage to 
 Isntrance of) the Héllenthal, Feldberg (Albthal see p. 263), Todtnau (p. 260).— 
 jth. Wiesenthal to Schopfheim (p. 261).—9th. Wehrathal (p. 262), thence 
 oy railway to Bale (p. 264). — 10th. (Railway to) Miillheim, Badenweiler, 
 )3lauen (p 245). 
 The following three routes have been so planned, that after a walk 
 f 2—3 days the railway may always be reached. The pedestrian will find 
 Vhe following maps, published by Herder at Freiburg, of great service to 
 laim: 1. Baden and the Kniebisbider, 2, Environs of Freiburg. 3. Southern 
 valleys of the Black Forest. Mounted, 1 fi, 12 kr. each. 
 | Of all the wooded districts of Germany, none offer such 
 1 succession of beautiful and varied landscapes as the Black 
 Forest, especially the W. portion, belonging to Baden, the 
 spurs of which decline precipitously towards the plain of the 
 Rhine, whilst the E. slopes are more gradual. The lower 
 aeights are covered with fragrant fir and pine forest, and the 
 ipopulous and fertile valleys present a scene of luxurious vege- 
 vation, corn, wine and fruit being abundantly produced. The 
 ‘rocks consist of gneiss, granite and sandstone. The numerous 
 ‘mineral springs have given rise to many little watering- 
 iplaces, which offer tempting retreats to the weary traveller. Even 
 4n the more remote districts the inns are good (trout every- 
 iwhere, but somewhat dear), and offer no mean additional 
 
 attraction to this favoured locality. 
 
250 Route 63. MURGTHAL. Black Forest, 
 
 A large proportion of the population is occupied with 
 traffic in wood, which is conducted down the principal streams) 
 in the Forest to the Rhine, where the larger rafts are con- 
 structed, and afterwards navigated down to Holland. Watch- 
 making, a rapidly increasing branch of industry, engages a 
 considerable number of persons. In this busy and prosperous 
 district beggars are unknown 
 
 a. Murgthal, Hornisgrinde, Mummelsee. 
 Comp. Map R. 52. 
 
 From Baden to Gernsbach and Allerhealigen. 
 
 Two days’ walk: 1st. From Baden to Gernsbach (6 M.), thence to For: 
 bach 10M., from Forbach to Schénmiinzach 7 M. — 2nd. From Schénmiunzachi 
 to the summit of the Hornisgrinde 44, hrs., down to the Mummelsee '/, hr., 
 and to Seebach 1 hr., or to Ottenhdfen, and thence over the hill to Aller- 
 heiligen 1'/, hr. — At Gernsbach, Forbach, aud: Schonminzach conveyances 
 may be procured: 2-horse carriages for 4 pers. from Gernsbach to Schén- 
 miinzach, inc. driver’s fee, 6 fl. 45 “ky, (from Forbach to Schénmunzach 4 fl. )s 
 from Schénmiinzach to the Eckle (2 M. from the Hornisgrinde) 5 fl. 36 kr.; 
 here the carriage-road ends. — Between Gernsbach and Schonmunzach an 
 open diligence, ‘accommodating 6 pers., runs every day in 4 hrs. (fare 1 fi.) 
 to meet the coach between the latter place and Freudenstadt (fare 48 kr.) 
 
 The Murg takes its rise on the Aniebis (p. 203) from three 
 springs which unite below Baiersbronn (p. 253). After a 
 course of about 45 M. it empties itself into the Rhine below 
 Rastadt. The inhabitants of its banks are almost exclusively 
 engaged in the wood traffic. The timber, which is cut in 
 winter, is carried down by the spring floods to the Rhine, 
 
 and large crowds often assemble to witness the large masses 
 being precipitated into the stream. 
 
 The Muregthal between Gernsbach and Schonmunzach 
 presents a series of wild and beautiful landscapes. The sides 
 of the valley are richly clothed with pines, firs and beeches, 
 and the scene is often varied by green meadows, and cot- 
 tages in the Swiss style interspersed among the woods. As 
 far as Schénmiinzach the rocks consist of granite, huge blocks’ 
 of which lie scattered in the forest, and by the mountain 
 brooks. Above Schonmiinzach the formation is of eneiss,| 
 hence the rounded and smooth aspect of the slopes. Varie- 
 gated sandstone occasionally makes its appearance. The val- 
 ley here becomes broader, and thus loses much of its peculiar! 
 charm. It is seen to de best advantage in descending the! 
 stream. 
 
 From Baden to Gernsbach see p. 214. The road in the! 
 Murgthal gradually ascends at the foot of the hill on which! 
 the ‘Ebersteinschloss is situated. The pedestrian descending’ 
 the valley must take the footpath by the last house at Oberts- 
 roth to reach the castle. 
 
Yack Forest. SCHONMUNZACH. 63. Route. 251 
 
 At Hilpertsau the road crosses to the r. bank of the Murg, 
 nd leads through the villages of Weissenbach, Langenbrand, 
 od Gausbach. That part of the valley which lies between 
 -ernsbach and Forbach is the most animated as well as the 
 lost picturesque. 
 
 Forbach (* Krone, conveyances; Adler) is the finest point 
 t the whole valley; the church is picturesquely situated on 
 1 eminence. 
 
 . The footpath from Baden to Forbach (12 M.) diverges fo the r. from 
 e carriage-road, 3/, M. beyond Oberbeuern (p. 214), at the signpost; 3/, M. 
 rther is Geisbach, and 1'/, M. Schmalbach, where the path to the 1. must be 
 spt; 11/7, M. from Schmalbach, a broad pathway diverges from the road to 
 e r., and leads for 1 M. along the E. slope of the mountain ridge, passing 
 meadow. At the end of the meadow the turning to the 1. must be taken, 
 _ M. beyond which a cross-way is reached, where the path which ascends 
 e hill in a straight direction must be kept; '/; M. more brings the pedes- 
 jan to the main road, which must be followed for */, M., then at the sign- 
 st the turning to the 1. must be taken to Bermersbach (1's, M.). The 
 ith which ascends by the village well must now be taken, and 1'/, M. far- 
 er Forbach is reached. t 
 Beyond Forbach the Murgthal becomes more deserted, but 
 yntinues grand and beautiful, resembling some of the wildest 
 wiss valleys; at the bottom rushes the impetuous mountain 
 ream over scattered fragments of rock, and on either side 
 ve dark overhanging pine-clad hills. Half way to Schon- 
 ‘unzach, the Rauminzach (on the r.) unites with the Murg. 
 Schénmiinzach ( Glashiitte; Waldhorn) is the tirst village 
 : the dominions of Wurttemberg, and consists of a consider- 
 sle glass-manufactory and a group of houses. The brook 
 the same name here falls into the Murg. (Good bathing- 
 
 ace in the latter 1/, M. above the post.) 
 
 The road to the Hornisgrinde and Mummelsee 
 2M.) leads from this point along the Schdnmiunzach to 
 wiegabel (3 M.), crosses the brook, and ascends to the r. 
 ong the Langenbach, past Vorder-Lanyenbach (14/, M.) to 
 ‘inter-Langenbach (2%, M.), where, at the small village inn 
 Zifle, tolerable wine), guides may be procured to the Hornis- 
 tinde and Mummelsee. 
 
 _ Here the path becomes steeper, and leads to the Eckle 
 ) M.), a strip of wood on the ridge of the mountain, where 
 _stone marks the boundary between Wirttemberg and Baden, 
 ad where a view of the distant Vosges is obtained. At this 
 dint are three different paths: that most to the r. enters 
 te wood and constitutes the boundary line between the two 
 oOminions already mentioned; the 2nd, also inclining to the 
 ., leads past the Drei-Fiirstenstein, which bears the arms of 
 laden and Wiirttemberg, to the Hornisgrinde (2 M.). The 
 
 5? 
 
252 Route 68. MUMMELSEE. 
 
 third path (to the Mummelsee), at first but little trodden, runs 
 parallel with the road, and after a few paces joins a bromal 
 track, which, slightly ascending, skirts the hill-side; 10 mim 
 from the Eckle, the broad stony path ascending to the pr 
 must be taken, which in 1, hr. leads to the extremity of the} 
 it Mum melsee. 
 Vi If the pedestrian follow the second of the above mentioned} 
 “| paths, it will conduct him to the *Hornisgrinde (3612 ft)) 
 the highest point of which is marked by a massive square} 
 
 2 : : . 
 stone heap. The view is very extensive; to the E. is seen} 
 
 the Schwabian Alb, the Achalm at Reutlingen, Hohentwiel| 
 and other peaks of the Héhgau; to the S. the heights of the 
 Black Forest, the Feldberg, Belchen, Blauen, and beyond| 
 them even the Alps (comp.. p.. 248);. to the S, W. the} 
 Kaiserstuhl (p. 243) and Vosges; to the W. the vast and| 
 populous plain of the Rhine, with its numerous villages 
 and towns; almost exactly opposite is visible the spire of the} 
 cathedral of Strasburg, and on a mountain in the foreground| 
 the extensive ruins of the Brigittenschloss [usually ascended from 
 Ottenhéfen (see below), fine view]; to the N. the mountains} 
 round Baden, the Mercuriusberg (p. 215), and even the Thurm, 
 | berg (p. 206) at Durlach. | 
 From the summit of the Hornisgrinde the path gradually 
 | descends in a S. W. direction, and soon becomes a mor¢ 
 | distinct tract, leading in +/, hr. to the Mummelsee, a gloomy) 
 “| looking little lake, surrounded by fir-clad mountain walls, ang 
 according to an old popular tradition, inhabited by water} 
 . sprites and goblins, whose supposed presence contributes mor¢) 
 to the interest of the spot than the natural features of the) 
 scene. By the Seebach, the brook which flows out of the laké) 
 on the S. side, is a hut which serves as a resting-place ant) 
 shelter in bad weather. About 10 yds. above the lake, at the 
 N. W. corner, not far from the path from the Hornisgrinde) 
 a spring of excellent water issues from the rock. 
 
 From the Mummelsee to Seebach (Hirsch, very unpretend) 
 ing) is a distance of about 3M. From the latter placd 
 two paths lead to Allerheiligen (p. 254), one arduous and un} 
 interesting over the mountains, and not to be ventured upor 
 without a guide (36 kr.); the other and pleasanter leads througl| 
 the valley to Ottenhdfen (21/, M.), and then follows th 
 road described at p. 153. 
 
 Black F orest 
 
 It has already been said that the Upper Murgthal offers 
 fewer attractions than the lower part of the valley, but the 
 traveller who has already visited the Mummelsee and Aller) 
 heiligen should continue his way from Schénminzach te 
 
 | 
 i 
 
‘lack Forest. KNIEBIS. 63. Route. 253 
 
 }eichenbach (71/, M.), formerly a monastery, where a pleasing 
 Mtrospective view of the valley is obtained. Before reaching 
 haiersbronn the footpath descending to the r. into the valley 
 ‘ay be taken, following the course of the stream through 
 ie picturesque and animated Mittel- and Ober-Murythal, with 
 's numerous saw-mills and other signs of the industry of the 
 ‘habitants, to Buhlbach (* Jnn near the glass-house, R. and 
 }. 40 kr.), 714 M. from Baiersbronn. The large glass-house 
 jields annually upwards of half a million Champagne bottles. 
 ‘llerheiligen is 6 M. to the W.; footpath over the Grunde. 
 - The road from Buhlbach to the Kniebis ascends gradually 
 rough the wood the whole way. About 3 M. to the S. of 
 /uhlbach the pedestrian reaches an open grass-plat where the 
 ad diverges to the r. at a right angle, but he must bear 
 ) the l. across the grass, and 5 min. will bring him to a 
 road stony track which leads to the Wurttemberg boundary- 
 ‘cone (3), M.). Ten min. walk along the furrow marking the 
 ‘oundary line will now bring the traveller up the Rossbiih/ to 
 he Schwabenschanz (3361 ft.), an intrenchment made at the 
 ‘lose of the last century by an officer of Wurttemberg. The 
 fiew from this point comprises the valley of the Rhine, 
 ‘trasburg and the Swiss mountains. 
 | Five minutes’ walk S. from this point along the frontier 
 ‘ne will bring the pedestrian to a large Boundary stone, 
 fearing the date 1673, where, close to the E. side of the 
 hath, is the old Schwedenschanze (Swedish intrenchment). 
 i\bout 200 yds. to the E. of this point is the Kniebis-Zufluchts- 
 ‘aus, where wine may be procured. ‘The path descending to 
 jie r. by the boundary-stone leads in 10 min. to the old 
 ligh-road which traverses a succession of beautiful forest 
 ind mountain scenes to Oppenau (41, M.) (p. 255). The 
 ‘mtire distance from Sch6nmiinzach to Buhlbach is about 
 id M. (1-horse carriage in 3 hrs. for 3 fl. and from Buhl- 
 tach to Oppenan about 10 M. 
 |. Allerheiligen, Waterfalls of Biittenstein, Kniebis- 
 badder, Waterfalls of Tryberg, Kinzigthal. 
 Comp. Map R, 52. 
 
 Pedestrian tour 31/, days. 1st. From Achern to Griesbach 24 M., or 
 etter by carriage.— 2nd. To Hausach 24M. 3d. To Zryberg and back, 
 nd then to Hasslach 2514, M. 4th. To Offenburg 15M. Should the traveller 
 ‘refer it, he may accomplish this tour in 2 days by availing himself of the 
 ublic and other conveyances. 1st day. From Achern to Neuhaus (1-horse car- 
 jiage 2. 42 kr., p. 216) in 11/, hr.; on foot over the mountain to Allerheiligen 
 in 3/, hr., from the forest-house to the foot of the waterfalls in 20 min., then 
 ny carriage (1-horse 3¥/, fl.), to Griesbach in 21/, hrs.; on foot over the 
 Iiolzwilder Hohe to Rippoldsaw in 2'/, hrs.; by carriage (4 fil.; omnibus, 
 Nn the morning only, 1 fl.) to Wolfach in 2 hrs, 2nd day. By carriage to 
 
 | 
 i 
 | 
 
Black Forest.| 
 
 954 Route 63. 
 
 arytere (visit to the waterfall on foot in 2 hrs,), and back to Wolfach (1- -horse' 
 5 fil.) in 5 hrs.; from Wolfach to Ojenburg (1-horse 6 fl.; omnibus in the), 
 heealie only 1 fl, 48 kr.) in 4 hrs. 
 
 ALLERHEILIGEN. 
 
 Achern (p. 217) is the starting point for the above tour; | 
 
 if it be reached about the middle of the day, the Turenné | 
 Monument (p. 217), the Erlenbad and the Lunatic Asylum may} 
 be visited in the course of the afternoon. \f 
 
 The road to Allerheiligen leads through the Cappeler Thal,\ 
 a pleasant, green dale (to the |. on the height, the Brigitten-} 
 schloss, p. 259 ; in the valley, a Morocco leather factory), past} 
 the villages of Cappel (3 M.; *Ochs), Ottenhéfen (3 M.) (*Linde; } 
 *Pflug; beer at Birk’s. — The “‘Edelfraulein’s Grab,” a pic=| 
 turesque waterfall, about 1M. to the S.), then into the valley) 
 to the r. to Neuhaus (2 M.; Erbprinz). Here the path leaves the}, 
 road. The former skirts the hillside to the r., leading straight) 
 past a solitary house (5 min.; ascent to the r. to be avoided)) 
 into the wood. At the top is a signpost where a short cub), 
 descends to the r. by numerous windings to (34 hr.) * Aller-| 
 heiligen (2000 ft.). The first glance on issuing from the), 
 wood at the top is very striking. The grand ruins of the 
 abbey, founded in 1196 by the Duchess Uta of Schauenburg,), 
 secularized in 1802, and partially destroyed by lightning in| 
 1803, occupy almost the entire breadth of the wooded dale. 
 In exploring them the traveller should use the utmost caution;) 
 a Prussian gentleman lost his life in Aug., 1862, by falling) 
 from the highest point. Good accommodation at Mittenmaier’s| 
 (pension 2 fl.). One-horse carriage to Achern in 2 hrs. 3¥/, fl.,), 
 to Oppenau in 11/4, hr. 2%, fl, to Griesbach in 24% -hrs. 5 fla} 
 to stat. Appenweier in 31/, hrs. for 6 fl. The Schweden- 
 schanze (p. 253) lies 6 M. to the S. E.; path through the), 
 wood with guide. } 
 
 Immediately below the monastery is a rugged mountain-|) 
 cleft, through which the Grindenbach is precipitated over) 
 masses of granite rock in 7 falls called the “Sieben Bitten”) 
 (Seven Tubs), or *Buttenstein-Falls, some of them 80 ft.) 
 in height, into the valley beneath. A well-kept path, cut in| 
 some places through the rock, or supported by means off 
 ladders, descends by the falls to the (20 min.) bottom of they 
 valley (1700 ft.). From the second “Rondel” or platform they 
 double fall is seen to the best advantage. i 
 
 At the signpost by the bridge beyond the falls the carriage-| 
 road from Allerheiligen is reached, and continues on the rj) 
 bank of the Lierbach (the name which the Grindenbach now | 
 assumes), high up on the slope of the hill. [Pedestrians 
 coming from Oppenau must, after about one hour’s walk, | 
 avoid descending to the r., but go straight on till the above-|) 
 
 —S— 
 
Black Forest. RIPPOLDSAU. 63. Route. 255 
 
 hentioned bridge (4 M. from Oppenan) is reached.| The road 
 jradually descends to Oppenau (*Stahlbad; Post), a small 
 wn about 5 M. from Allerheiligen, where ‘‘Kirschwasser” is 
 ‘ianufactured in large quantities, and then enters the delight- 
 ui valley of the impetuous Rench, on which the Kniebis- 
 Naths (41/4, M.) are situated. The first of these is a sulphur- 
 lath at Freyersbach, a second is at Petersthal (*/, M.), and 
 ae last a chalybeate spring at Griesbach, about 2 M. farther, 
 there casual visitors as well as patients may find good ac- 
 ‘mmodation. A fourth bath at Antogast lies about 3 M. to 
 ie W. 
 
 About 1 M. beyond Griesbach, three paths diverge from 
 ie road to the r.; of these the traveller should select that 
 ‘rthest to the 1, a good broad track provided with benches 
 '; intervals, which in }4 hr. leads to a flight of steps on the 
 |, ascending to an open space where a small waterfall is 
 ten, and a fine view of the valley of Griesbach obtained. 
 
 / A few yards farther on the path, two other paths diverge, 
 at the same path (following the wires of the electric tele- 
 fraph) must be kept straight up the hill. In 7 min. a sign- 
 }yst is reached, where the pedestrian must ascend to the L., 
 ad in 12 min. he will reach a bench whence a fine prospect 
 } obtained of the W. slopes of the Black Forest, the valley 
 the Rhine, Strasburg, and in the background the Vosges. 
 ‘nother 1/, hr. leads to a signpost where the path ascends 
 ' the 1.; 8 min. farther is another fine point of view, similar 
 y the last, but still more extensive, comprising the chain of 
 'e Vosges with the Hoh-Koénigsburg (p. 232) to the S. After 
 ) straight ascent of 4 min. more the Holzwalder Hohe (3055 ft.), 
 ‘e highest point of the walk, is attained. 
 
 ) The path next descends through a fir-wood carpeted with 
 ‘lberry plants, and then winds across an open space down 
 / the road (%, hr.) in the valley, by following which for 
 | M. the traveller arrives at Rippoldsau (1886 ft.), the most 
 Jequented of the Kniebis baths, situated in a narrow and 
 reluded valley. The principal constituent of the water is 
 Mlphate of soda. The large bath-establishment offers every 
 ymfort to the traveller (R. 48 kr., D. at 1 o’clock 1 fl. 12 kr.); 
 slow it is a small café with newspapers, where a band plays 
 ‘om 7 to 8 p.m. Omnibus (from June 15th to Sept. 15th) to 
 ffenburg in 6, hrs. (2 fl. 48 kr.); l-horse carriage to 
 Jolfach 4 fi. 
 
 | The old Benedictine priory or “K/ésterle,” founded in the 
 ith cent., lies 3/, M. below the bath-house on the road, 
 ‘hich traverses this picturesque valley (15 M. in length), 
 ‘lowing the course of the Wolfach. Farther on, a waterfall 
 
256 Route 63. TRYBERG. Black Forest. 
 
 is seen on the roadside, and beyond it a precipitous group 0 
 
 rocks, with a summer-house. Six miles from Rippoldsau 
 Schapbach (Armbruster) is reached, a long straggling village) 
 upwards of 6 M. in length, and remarkable for the quaint) 
 costume of the peasants and the curious construction of their] 
 cottages. (The ground-floor is a stable, the first-floor they 
 dwelling-house, and above it a granary and hay-loft.) About} 
 14 M. from Rippoldsau Wolfach (*Salm, good Zeller wine) 
 is reached; it possesses a Town-house formerly a castle of some 
 importance, and is situated at the confluence of the Wolfach 
 and the Kinzig. ( 
 
 Those whose time is limited may take the omnibus (1 fl. 48 kr.) 
 at 64, a.m., arriving at Offenburg before noon, but one day] 
 would be well spent in making an excursion to Hornberg andy 
 Tryberg (by carriage, 5—7 fl., in half a day). The pedestriany 
 need not return the whole way to Wolfach, but on emerging} 
 from the valley at the Kinzig-bridge may at once proceed Wy 
 to Hausach and Hasslach. | 
 
 The short distance (2 M.) between Wolfach and the Kinzig) 
 bridge just mentioned is remarkable for the picture of industry} 
 which it presents, as well as for its beauty; the road the 
 enters the valley of the Gutach, which at this point falls into} 
 the Kinzig, and traverses a succession of rich pastures and 
 orchards to Gutach (3 M.; Krone; Léwe), and Hornberg| 
 (3 M.; *Posé), an old place of some importance, and remarkable} 
 for the picturesque costume of the peasantry of the neigh+ 
 bourhood. The castle which contributes not a little to the| 
 beauty of the landscape, was taken by Marshal Villars in 1703) 
 but soon afterwards recovered by the peasantry. | 
 
 The most remarkable part of the whole excursion is thé} 
 walk from Hornberg to Tryberg (714 M.). The road, in many 
 places hewn in the rock, winds through a series of the mos} 
 picturesque and well wooded ravines till the Tryberger Posthaus} 
 is reached, where the valley widens. Here the road to the ly 
 leads farther into the forest to St. Georgen and Donaueschingen} 
 that to the r. to (34 M.) the small town of Tryberg (*Lowe, 
 Post) situated 1850 ft. above the level of the sea, the centra) 
 point of the Black Forest, and principal seat of the watel 
 manufactories. (Furtwangler Brothers and Kellerer own thé 
 Most considerable of these establishments.) 
 
 The grand object of interest for the traveller is thi 
 ** Waterfall which is visible from a considerable distance} 
 The path to it ascends to the left by the Léwe; in 20 min. thi 
 highest bridge over the fall is attained; 280 yds. beyond thiyj 
 spot, from an open space on the |. bank, a fine view of thi 
 little town and the valley is obtained. The waterfall, thq 
 
». Route. 257 
 
 Qo 
 
 lack Forest. HAUSACH. 6 
 
 loest in W. Germany, is 542 ft. in height, and is divided into 
 sven distinct parts by huge blocks of granite, over which the 
 ater is precipitated. The frame-work, like that of the Giess- 
 jach on the Lake of Brienz in Switzerland, is formed by tall 
 vark-green pines. The finest near view of the falls is obtained 
 yom a mass of rock which forms the dam of the lowest fall; 
 ‘ie general effect is best seen from a grass-grown projecting 
 ock about 50 yds. from the bottom of the fall. 
 
 Those who have already visited the Kinzigthal will now 
 soceed from Tryberg in a S. direction over the hill to 
 urtwangen (7 M.) (*Hotel Fehrenbach, good and moderate), 
 jother watch-manufacturing town with a school for teaching 
 Ne art, whence a post-omnibus runs in 4 hrs. through Simons- 
 ald (Krone), and the cheerful little town of Waidkirch 
 ‘Post; Rebstock), to the railway stat. Denzlingen. — Two-horse 
 wriage from Tryberg to Simonswald (uninteresting road) 6 fl.; 
 yom the latter place through the valleys of Simonswald and 
 \e Elz very pretty. One-horse carriage from Tryberg to Horn- 
 berg 3, to Hausach or Wolfach 4¥,, and to St. Georgen 31/, fl. 
 | We now return to Hausach (*Post).. Above the town 
 jands an ancient round tower, the remains of the princely 
 listle of the house of Furstenberg, destroyed by the French 
 1648. 
 | Hasslach (*Kreuz), 31/, M. distant from Hausach, is the 
 Hincipal town of the district. It formerly belonged to. the 
 hincipality of Furstenberg, and was destroyed in 1704 by 
 ‘e French on their retreat after the battle of Hochstadt. 
 
 Steinach (Sonne), 21/, M. farther, is an animated little 
 iwn; from the village and post-station of Bieberach (A7vone; 
 tonne), 3 M. farther, a road leads to Lahr (p. 237), 7%) M. 
 stant, passing the ruins of the Castle of Hohen-Geroldseck 
 |, 237). 
 
 Near (6 M.) Gengenbach (Adler; Salm; Badischer Hof) 
 e road crosses the Ainzig. ‘The village was up to the peace 
 ‘ Luneville a free town of the empire, and owes its foundation 
 
 the handsome old Benedictine Abbey. 
 | Beyond Gengenbach the valley of the Kinzig continues to 
 iden. On a vine-clad hill at its mouth (31. M.) rises the 
 listle of *Ortenberg, a handsome modern edifice, founded 
 i, the ruins of the ancient castle destroyed by Marshal Crequi, 
 Nhich formerly commanded the entrance to the valley. It is 
 ow surrounded by tastefully laid out and well-kept grounds, 
 he flowerbeds &c. being ornamented with stalactites. The 
 ‘ospect is fine, and embraces the entire chain of the Vosges. 
 ihe castle vineyards, as well as those of the village of Orten- 
 ry at the foot of the hill, yield a good wine. 
 
 Bakrpeker’s Rhine. 
 
 17 
 
2958 Route 63. HOLLENPASS. Black Forest.' 
 
 Offenburg (p. 236) is 2'/, M. distant. Extensive tobacco) 
 manufactories on the road before entering the town. 
 
 c. Héllenthal, Feldberg, Wiesenthal, Wehrathal, 
 Albthal. 
 
 Comp. Map R. 62. 
 
 Two days. From Freiburg to the Himmelreich by carriage in 1'/, hr.4) 
 
 on foot through the Héllenthal to the Stern Inn (41, M.), to the top of the 
 Feldberg in 3'/,hrs., descent to Todtnaw in 3 hrs., where pass the night 
 From Todtnau to Lorrach 8'/, hrs. walk, or 4 hrs. drive, or to Bale in 5 hrs,| 
 by carriage. To explore the Wekrathal would require a third day. ) 
 
 The broad and fertile valley of the Dreisam, bounded by 
 lofty mountains, through which the road lies, is not sufficiently} 
 attractive to induce the traveller to traverse it on feot; it is 
 therefore advisable to take a carriage as far as the Himmel 
 reich (9 M.). The road passes the Littenwetler Baths (p. 2438) 
 on the l. bank of the stream, Ebnet, Burg, and Kirchzarten 
 which lies to the r., and from which the upper part of thé 
 valley derives its name. Soon after passing it, the road entert 
 a more mountainous district, the fertile tract at the commence; 
 ment of which is called the Himmelreich (Kingdom of Heaven) 
 on account of the contrast it presents to the deep and pre} 
 cipitous ravines of the Héle (Hell) which lies beyond, and ai 
 the entrance to which is situated the ruined castle of Falkenstein 
 
 The so-called *Héllenpass is °*4 M. in length, and 
 resembles the Miunsterthal in the Jura in its towering an¢ 
 overhanging rocks. The most beautiful and wildest point o} 
 the whole valley is at the *Hirschensprung, an imposing anc 
 precipitous mass of rock, the clefts of which are overgrowr 
 with firs and underwood. The narrow road which winds 
 ‘through the pass, scarcely broader than required by the im 
 petuous brook, was constructed by the Austrian governmen} 
 in 1770, when the Archduchess Marie Antoinette, the brid¢ 
 of the Dauphin, afterwards Louis XVI., passed through th¢ 
 ravine on her way to France.. The same pass was also the 
 sgene of the celebrated retreat of Moreau in October, 1796) 
 when pursued by the Archduke Charles. 
 
 At the end of the pass the picturesque Chapel of St. Os} 
 wald looks down into the valley from a projecting rock. Thé 
 Post-inn is first reached, and 1 M. farther the *Stern (R. 36—48 
 B. 24, A. 12 kr.; guide over the Feldberg to the chalet o: 
 Todtnau 1 fl. 12 kr., not absolutely necessary). 
 
 Here the road, which continues to wind up the hill, is quitted| 
 The traveller crosses the brook to the r., and ascends by a broad 
 and steep forest-track to the (40 min.) hamlet of Albersbach} 
 
 ke 
 
 situated in the midst of verdant meadows. In 5 min. more @ 
 cross is reached, where the path to the ]. must be taken; in| 
 
 H 
 i 
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 f 
 
i 
 t 
 
 3lack Forest. FELDBERG. 63. Route. 259 
 
 _0O min. to the r., in the hollow, to the saw-mill; in 10 min. more 
 hrough the gate to the r.; in 3 min. the least trodden path 
 > the 1, leading to the Guschpels Hof; after 1/, hr. the stony 
 tack into the wood must be ascended. The two paths which 
 2parate at the pine-stump (12 min.), soon unite again, and 
 vad in 5 min. to flat pasture land with a cross on the 1. On 
 otering the wood again the turning to the 1. must be avoided; 
 {ter 8 min. another turning to the ]. must be avoided; in 5 min. 
 ore, to the r. again, along the grassy path by the wood in 
 ne direction of the white roof of the Baldenweg Chalet. In 
 ip hr. 3 cottages, called Auf dem Rinken, are reached, at the 
 wt of which the narrow path ascends to the r. through 
 yeadows into the wood; in 25 min. more the above-mentioned 
 falet (‘‘Viehhutte”) is reached, where refreshments may be 
 rocured, and accommodation for the night if necessary. From 
 iis point to the Feldberg and Seebuck there are no regular 
 ‘aths, but, unless the weather be foggy, the services of a guide 
 ‘ay be dispensed with. 
 | The traveller now stands at the foot of the peak of the 
 eldberg, which may easily be attained in 14 hr. Though the 
 ath can scarcely be distinguished, the pedestrian cannot well 
 lo wrong; he must continue to ascend round the E. and S.E. 
 ‘opes of the mountain; he will then reach the ridge which 
 lmnects the summit, or Héchste, with the Seebuck, which in a 
 .E. direction forms a continuation of the Feldberg table-land; 
 few min. more will bring him to the tower (Friedrich- 
 ouisen-Thurm), the keys of which are kept in the Todtnau 
 halet (see below). It occupies the summit of the Feldberg 
 090 ft.), and is the highest point in the Black Forest, com- 
 anding a magnificent prospect. The distant view is similar 
 ' that from the Blauen (p. 247). 
 
 Another path to the Feldberg leads from the “Stern” to 
 ie ry. to (15 min.) Hinterzarten, (30 min.) Oberzarten, (1 hr.) 
 ipfelhof; thence along the course of the Seebach to the 
 5 min.) Feldsee (see below); through forest, ascending to the 
 5 min.) Lenzkirch Chalet (refreshments in the Menzenschwand 
 halet in the vicinity), whence, following the ridge of the 
 ountain, the traveller reaches the Hochste. 
 
 Following the ridge which connects the Héchste with the 
 eebuck in a S.E. direction, a spot opposite to the Baldenweg 
 ialet is reached in about 25 min., from which a beautiful 
 jiew, even more picturesque than that from the tower, is 
 ‘tained. Far below, in a basin enclosed by precipitous 
 ne-clad mountains, fed by several waterfalls, lies the Feddsee, 
 ‘small black-looking lake, drained by the Seebach, a brook 
 hich traverses the romantic Bdrenthal and precipitates itself, 
 
 17* 
 
960 Route 62. WIESENTHAL. Black Horeste) 
 
 6 M. below, into the Titisee, the W. extremity of which is} 
 visible from this point. Other distant valleys are also visible 
 
 and the background is formed by the Swabian chain of} 
 mountains, to the r. the basaltic summits of the Hohgau, the! 
 Hohentwiel, Hohenstoffeln, Hohenkrahen, &c. — The path} 
 down to the Feldsee, and through the Barenthal to the Titisee! 
 well repays the trdveller; it emerges at the lower (N.) end of] 
 the Titisee on the Freiburg and! Schaffhausen road, about, 
 5 M. to the E. of the Stern Inn (p. 258). | 
 
 Half an hour’s walk W. from the Seebuck, and at the same} 
 distance to the S. of the Feldberg lies the Todtnau Chalet, al 
 small inn, where the keys of the tower on the Feldberg are| 
 Kept (g nide 30 kr.), and whence another beautiful prospect may} 
 be enjoyed, especially of the Wiesenthal; in the background} 
 are the snow-clad peaks of the Alps (p. 248). | 
 
 From this point a broad and tolerably good path leads through} 
 the ravine (Brandenburger Thal), along the Wiese (in 2 hrs. | 
 to Todinau (1995 ft.) (*Ochs, by the ehurch, R. 30 kr.) 
 B..24kr.; Rossle), a clean and thriving little town, the highest 
 in the valley of the Wiese. The principal arm of the brook 
 rises below the 'Todtnau chalet, and emerges from its wild 
 and romantic ravine immediately above the town, below whicl| 
 it is joined by the Bergerbach. At Todtnauberg (Stern), 3 MI! 
 to the N., the latter brook is precipitated over a rock, 200 ft| 
 in height. The old arms of the town — a miner with hammel 
 and pickaxe — prove e that mining was the principal occupation 
 of the inhabitants in very early times. 
 
 The *Wiesenthal from Todtnau to Lorrach, below whicl| 
 it opens into the plain of the Rhine, is about 27 M. in length 
 The greater part of it is narrow and well-wooded, the mos} 
 picturesque part being that between Schonau and Zell. One) 
 horse carriage to Schénau (in 1 hr.) 144 fl., to Zell Gn 2 hrs, 
 Bil. i to Schopfheim (in 2°/, hrs.) 4 i, fl., to Lorrach (in 4 hrsJ 
 7 fl. Diligence to Schopfheim in the morning, thence b 
 railway to Bale (see p. 264). 
 
 At Geschwendt, 1}/,M. from Todtnau, a path to the | 
 diverges to Prag, Todtioos and the ** Wehr aéhal: 
 
 From the little town of Schénau (*Sonne), 41/, M. | 
 Geschwendt, with its extensive cotton-factory, the road lead 
 through a romantic and well-wooded dale to Zell (Léwe 
 7, M. farther, another busy little town of weavers and cottol] 
 spinners. 
 
 Where the ravine widens, half-way to Schopfheim, is situate| 
 the extensive grand-ducal iron-foundry of Hausen, the birtl| 
 place of the poet Hebel; the village itself, concealed by frui| 
 trees, lies on the r. bank of the Wiese. The inhabitants q 
 
Black Forest. LORRACH. 63. Route. 261 
 
 he upper part of the valley are Rom. Cath., those below Hausen 
 ?rotestant. 
 
 Schopfheim (*Pflug), 41, M. from Zell, is a clean little 
 own of some importance, and carries on a considerable traffic 
 with Bale; railway by Lérrach to Bale in 1 hr.; fares 66, 48, 
 33 kr, [The Wehrathal (p. 262) can be best visited from Schopf- 
 jieim. One-horse carriage to Wehr, along the Wehrastrasse to 
 Todtmoos-Au, back to Wehr, and thence to the railway stat. 
 3rennet on the Rhine above Bale, a drive of 5 hrs., for 6 f1.] 
 
 The Wiesenthal widens considerably below Schopfheim; 
 he stream is usefully employed in the irrigation of the land, 
 's well.as for the supply of numerous cotton and other mills 
 ituated on its banks. 
 
 Steinen (Ochs), the next village, is 3 M. from Schopfheim, 
 \bove the village of Rétteln- Weiler (*Inn), about 41/, M. farther, 
 ise the extensive ruins of Schloss Rétteln, one of the largest 
 no the Duchy, commanding a fine view. It was formerly the 
 residence of the Margraves of Hochberg, and afterwards of the 
 Mfargraves of Baden; was taken by Bernhard of Weimar in 
 638, and dismantled and blown up by the French in 1678. 
 
 Lorrach (*Hirsch, R. 36, B. 24, D. 48 kr.), the most im- 
 ortant place in the valley (71% M. from Schopfheim and 6 M. 
 com Bale), is a modern manufacturing town, containing 
 xtensive shawl, cotton, cloth, and other factories. (One-horse 
 arriage to Rotteln-Weiler 21, to Kandern 4, to Zell 5, to 
 ie Wehrathal and stat. Brennet 7 fl. 
 
 The *Tillinger Héhe, 2 M. to the S. of Lérrach, is a 
 
 oint well worth visiting, as it commands a magnificent view 
 f the highlands of Baden, Alsace, Bale, and the Swiss 
 1ountains. The foreground is formed by the broad and 
 ertile plain, at the spectator’s feet lie the villages of Riehen 
 nd Weil in the midst of orchards and vineyards. From 
 je terrace behind the church the view is still more extended, 
 nd the garden of the *inn commands the finest prospect in 
 W. direction. It was after a contest near this spot, which 
 rminated unfortunately for Germany, that the French general 
 jillars was elevated to the dignity of marshal. 
 _ Below Lorrach the road enters the dominions of Bale. The 
 jurch of St, Chrischona, formerly a favorite resort of pilgrims, 
 Ow a Prot. missionary establishment, situated on a wooded 
 Minence above Riehen, commands a fine prospect similar to 
 lat from the Tullinger Héhe. The road approaches Bale 
 trough a succession of tasteful villas. 
 
 5? 
 
 Travellers coming from the Feldberg, who are already 
 equainted with the Wiesenthal, may prefer to continue their 
 
262 Route 63. ST. BLASIEN. 
 
 excursion (on foot) as follows: From Todtnau to Geschwendt 
 (114, M.) in the Wiesenthal, then to the 1. to Prag (38 M)) 
 (Hirsch); thence over a steep hill to Todtmoos (2527 ft.) (* Adler) 
 in about 2 hrs.; from Todtmoos in the Wehrathal to (3 M.) 
 Todtmoos-Au (Inn), and from here to (9 M.) Wehr (*Krone, 
 R. 36, B. 24 kr.), a village with Grand-ducal iron-foundry. 
 
 The **Wehrastrasse, a road made exclusively for the 
 transport of timber, winds through the grandest rocky ravine, 
 which commences 3/, M. beyond Todtmoos-Au, and terminates 
 11, M. before Wehr is reached, a length of about 7M. It 
 is enclosed on both sides by lofty wooded mountains, and is 
 in many places so narrow that there is barely space for the 
 road by the side of the impetuous Wehra. The variety of the 
 foliage — the birch-trees, for example, contrasting with the 
 sombre firs which clothe the precipitous walls — render this 
 mountain-glen picturesque in the highest degree. In grandeut 
 and wildness the rocks surpass even those of the Holle (p. 258), 
 and extend for a much greater distance, the latter being only 
 3/, M. in length. At the S. extremity of the valley the towel 
 of Barenfels is seen perched on the ridge of the mountain. 
 
 At the N.W. houses of Wehr a tract of meadow-land 
 commences, in which (114 M. from Wehr, and 1, M. before 
 reaching the village of Hasel) the *Erdmdnnleinhohle, a stalactite 
 cavern, is situated. The schoolmaster, who lives next doo] 
 to the Pfug inn at Hasel, keeps the key, and accompanies 
 visitors to the cavern, which must be illuminated (fee 30 kr.) 
 Like most other caverns, it contains its chapel, organ 
 dungeon, &c., formed by the stalactites. It is inferior i 
 grandeur to those of the Harz mountains, but well deserves é 
 visit. Travellers wishing to proceed from this point to Schopf 
 heim need not return to Wehr, as a good road leads direc 
 from Hasel to Schopfheim (41/, M_). 
 
 Beyond Oeflingen, 3 M. to the S. of Wehr, the road emerge 
 from the valley of the Wehra at Brennet, a station on thi 
 Bale and Waldshut Railway. 
 
 : 
 
 Another beautiful walk may be taken from the Feldber 
 by St. Blasien down the Albthal to the Bale and Waldshu 
 Railway. From the Seebuck (p. 259) the path leads to th 
 Lenzkirch Chalet (3/, M.), then at the back of the Menzenschwan| 
 Chalet (8 min.) to the r. to Menzenschwand (3'/, M.), th 
 birthplace of the eminent painters Wéinterhalter, at whos 
 expense a handsome new inn has been erected, in which thei 
 niece officiates as hostess. | 
 
 From this point a walk of 2 hrs. down the Albthal bring 
 the pedestrian to St. Blasien, once celebrated for its wealth) 
 
 | 
 
WALDSHUT. 64. Route. 263 
 and learned Benedictine abbey. The church, whose handsome 
 dome is a conspicuous object in the distance, was built in 1786, 
 after the model of the Pantheon at Rome. The buildings 
 belonging to the Abbey were secularized in 1805, and have 
 since “served for industrial purposes, a portion having been 
 converted into an inn. 
 
 Two miles farther is Ober-Kutterau, and 31!/, M. beyond it, 
 Immeneich (small inn), where the new * Albstrasse commences. 
 It leads through wild, rocky scenery, and penetrates the 
 perpendicular mountain walls in 6 different places by means 
 of tunnels; far below rushes the mountain stream. About 
 9M. from Immeneich the road emerges at Albbruck, a station 
 on the Bale and Waldshut Railway (see below). 
 
 Another interesting excursion is from the Seebuck, passing the Menzen- 
 schwand Chalet and Altglashiitte, to the picturesquely situated village of Aha, 
 ‘and thence in 1'/, hr. to the Schluchsee, a small lake abounding in fish, and 
 ithe village (3200 ft.) of the same name, a delightful spot, noted for the 
 salubrity “of its atmosphere. Thence by the carriage-road to St, Blasien 7'/, M. 
 
 64. From Waldshut to Bale. 
 
 | By the Baden Railway in 1'/,—2'/ hrs. Fares: 2 fl. 18, 1 fi, 33 kr., 
 i fi, Finest views to the left. 
 
 _ Waldshut (Rebstock), on the lofty r. bank of the Rhine, 
 is a station on the Baden railway to Schaffhausen and Con- 
 stance. Below Kod/enz, in the canton of Aargau, 1'/, M. to 
 the S.E. of Waldshut, the Aare falls into the Rhine, and near 
 it the Swiss-junction line crosses the Rhine. 
 
 _ The line only approaches the Rhine at intervals, as for 
 example at Dogern and Albbruck, where the romantic Alb- 
 ‘Strasse (see above) emerges. After passing several smaller 
 stations and traversing two lofty viaducts and one tunnel, the 
 train arrives at the station of Klein-Laufenburg. 
 
 Laufenburg (Post), opposite to the station, om the 1. bank 
 of the Rhine, is in the canton of Aargau, picturesquely situated 
 ‘on a rock, below which is the Cataract of the Rhine. The 
 salmon- fishery at this point is very productive. From the station 
 at Klein- Laufenburg a view may be obtained of the rocks 
 which here enclose the Rhine. 
 
 The line now runs along the bank of the Rhine which 
 here rushes impetuously over its rocky bed, the 1. (Swiss) bank 
 Deing precipitous and wooded. Sackingen (Bad or Lowe) is 
 a place of some importance, and contains an ancient church 
 which in former times belonged to a powerful and extensive 
 monastery. 
 
 At Brennet the Wehrstrasse emerges from its mountain 
 ravine. The line next traverses the vineyards and gardens 
 
264 Route 65. BALE. 
 
 of Beuggen, form erly a lodge of the Teutonic order, now an 
 asylum for children and training-school for teachers. 
 
 Rheinfelden (Schifi; Krone), on the |. bank of the Rhine 
 in the canton of Aargau, was formerly strongly fortified and 
 was one of the bulwarks of the holy Roman empire. After 
 standing innumerable sieges it was at last dismantled by the 
 French in 1744. Since 1801 it has belonged to Switzerland. 
 Below the town another rapid of the Rhine forms a sort of 
 whirlpool, termed the “H6llenhaken.” 
 
 Here the line leaves the Rhine and traverses the fruitful 
 plain which lies between the spurs of the Black Forest and 
 the river, passing the villages of Warmbach and Grenzach 
 surrounded by vineyards, and terminating at Klein-Basel. 
 
 65. Bale. 
 
 Hotels). *Three Kings (Pl. a) on the Rhine, R. 2, L. 14, B. 1A, 
 D. at 5 o'clock 4, A. 1 fr.; Schweizerhof at the Central Station, new; 
 Stork (Pl. b), *Wild man (Pl. c) in both R, lp—2, B. 1, Table d’hote 
 ati o’cl. ince We.3, A. 34 fr.;) Crown (Elid) opi (el ) both on the 
 Rhine. — In Klein-Basel on the r. bank of the Rhine, *Bear (PI. g), 
 *Kreuz (Pl. h), starting point of the omnibus to the Wiesenthal f 260). 
 Baseler Hof opp. to the Baden station, also a restaurant. 
 
 Cafés. *Cafée des Trois Rois, two houses above the hotel of the 
 same name, *Café national near the bridge, beer good; Café Schild- 
 hof near the Elisabethenkirche, both restaurants, Sommer- Casino, not 
 far from the Monument of St. Jacob; concert on Wed. from 6 to 9 p.m. 
 Thomma’s beergarden, near the Central Station. 
 
 Conveyances. Omnibus from the station to the town (50 Ib. luggage 
 free) '/ fr., from the Baden to the Swiss station 1 fr, Cabs in the market- 
 place in front of the ‘‘Three Kings,’ and near the church of St. Clara in 
 Klein-Basel &c.; charges for a ¥/, hr. 1—2 persons 80 cent., 3—4 pers. 1 fr. 
 20 ¢., by the hour 2—38 fr., to or from the station 1—4 pers. 1'/, fr., each 
 box 20 cent. extra. Two-horse carriages for 14 day 15 fr., for a whole 
 day 25 fr. 
 
 Railway stations. Baden station in Klein-Basel %/, M. (straight) from 
 the Rhine bridge (Swiss money not taken); duty payable on carved wood- 
 work brought from Switzerland 10 kr. per lb. — The stations of the French 
 and the Swiss lines are united at the Central Station at the Steinen-Thor, 
 The Baden line is preferable to the French, the country is more beautiful, 
 the carriages better and the fares more moderate. Paris time is 25 min, 
 behind Bale time. 
 
 Post and Telegraph Office (P]. 15) in the Freien-Strasse. 
 
 Baths in the Rhine near the Minster, entrance from the Pfalz (p. 266), 
 Warm baths at Sigmund’s 
 
 Newspapers in the Reading club by the Minster. Strangers must be in- 
 troduced by a member, perhaps the landlord of their hotel. . 
 
 English Church Service in the Three Kings Hotel. 
 
 Bale or Basel (comp. Baedeker’s Switzerland), the tee 
 town of the canton Basel-Stadt (pop. 41,000; 9697 Rom. Cath.), 
 is first mentioned in the year 374 under the name of Basiléa, 
 and appears to have been founded by the Roman army when | 
 it fell back on the Rhine near the old Colonia Augusta Rau- 
 racorum, founded B.C. 27 by L. Munatius Plancus (now called | 
 Basel Augst, 5 M. from Bale on the |. bank of the Rhine). | 
 
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BALE. 65. Route. 265 
 
 The wealth of Bale has become proverbial; for this the town 
 is greatly indebted to its favourable position at the junction 
 of the frontiers of Germany, France and Switzerland. 
 
 The town lies on the |. bank of the Rhine and is con- 
 nected with Alein-Basel on the yr. bank by a wooden bridge, 
 280 yds. in length. 
 
 The *Miunster (Pl. 14), an imposing edifice, the two lofty 
 towers of which are visible from a considerable distance, was 
 formerly the Cathedral of the see of BAle (the bishop’s resi- 
 ‘dence is now at Soleure). It was built by the Emperor 
 Henry II. in 1010—1019, and was restored in 1185, after 
 having been partially destroyed by fire. In 1356 the old 
 ‘building was all but levelled by an earthquake, but is now 
 rebuilt in the Gothic style. Of the original structure the N. 
 portal, or St. Gallus gate-way, still exists, and is adorned with 
 Statues of the evangelists, John the Baptist and other saints ; 
 ‘over the church-door is a relief presenting the wise and foolish 
 Virgins; at the sides, in 6 niches, are the works of charity, 
 and at the top Christ on the Judgment seat and the angels 
 at the last day. The W. front under the towers, with the 
 principal gateway and two side-entrances belong to the 
 14th cent.; on the front are represented the Virgin and Child, 
 and under them the Emp. Henry, the founder and benefactor of 
 the Church, with the Empress Helena; on the two side entrances 
 are two knights, on the 1. St. George and the Dragon, and on 
 the r. St. Martin. The towers, which are 205 ft. in height, 
 were not completed till 1500. In the year 1431 the con- 
 vocation of the great Council in the Minster first began; it 
 consisted of upwards of 500 clergymen, whose ostensible task 
 was a “reformation of the Church in head and members,” but 
 after having disputed for years without any result, and having 
 been excommunicated by Pope Eugene IV., the Convocation 
 was at last dissolved in 1448. ‘The Church is open to the 
 public on Tues. and Frid. from 2 to 4 o’clock. The sacristan 
 lives opposite to the principal entrance (fee }/, fr.); in summer 
 
 ae is generally to be found in the Church at the above hours. 
 
 The interior of the Miinster was bereft of its most beautiful ornaments 
 in the great iconoclasm of 1529, but was re-decorated in 1852—1856 with 
 sreat skill, and is now one of the finest Protestant churches in existence. 
 Che beautiful rood-loft of 1381 now serves to support the organ, a very 
 ine instrument, performances on which may be heard once or twice a week 
 n summer from 6 to 7 p.m, (adm. 1 fr.). The pulpit is of 1424. The aisles 
 ind choir contain fine old monuments and tombstones built into the walls; in 
 he N. nave the old episcopal chair; also reliefs of the 11th cent. (scenes 
 rom the lives of the martyrs); the font of 1465, and, on the pillar opposite 
 © it, the tombstone of the learned Erasmus of Rotterdam (d. 1536) with a 
 ong Latin inscription, In the passage round the choir are the monuments 
 of the empress Anna (d. 1281), consort of Rudolph of Habsburg and mother 
 4 Albrecht I., and of her youngest son Charles. The new stained-glass 
 Windows, representing Moses and Dayid, Peter and Paul, and the four 
 
| 
 | 
 
 “ | 
 266 Route 65. BALE. The Museum. 
 Evangelists, are by artists of Zurich and St. Gall, and the newest, representing : 
 Christ as Judge of the world, is from the stained-glass Institution of Munich. | 
 The crypt, which belongs to the original edifice, contains relics of frescoes. 
 of the i3th cent., and 6 sarcophagi of members of the family of the Margraves | 
 of Baden-Durlach (1688—1709), A stair leads from the choir to the Council | 
 Hall, in which one of the five principal committees used to assemble. It is | 
 exactly in the state in which it was left 400 years ago. All that was con- 
 sidered worth preserving at the restoration of the church is kept here, such, 
 as antiquitiés of the middle ages, fragments of the nine frescoes of the. 
 celebrated Bale Death-dance, painted in 1409 in remembrance of the plague, 
 and erroneously attributed to Holbein. Here too may be seen the Lalienkonig, 
 a large head formerly placed on the clock-tower of the Rhine bridge (taken 
 down in 1839), which rolled its eyes and protruded its long tongue (‘Lalli’’) 
 at each stroke of the pendulum, erected in derision of the inhabitants of 
 Klein-Basel in consequence of a dispute with them. | 
 
 On the S. side of the Choir are extensive * Cloisters, 
 built in the years 1362, 1400 and 1487, connecting the church 
 with the Episcopal palace, and used as family burial-places. 
 Among the monuments which they contain may be mentioned 
 those of the reformers (Ecolampadius (d. 1531) and Grynzus 
 (d..1541), and that of a Frau Forcart-Merian on one of the 
 E. pillars, which possesses considerable artistic merit. These 
 
 cloisters extend to the terrace behind the Minster, which 
 
 overlooks the Rhine, rising 75 ft. immediately above it, and 
 derives its name from an imperial Pfalz, or palace, to which 
 it is said formerly to have belonged. It is planted with 
 chestnuts and affords a pleasing prospect of the green river and 
 the dark heights of the Black Forest. In its immediate vicinity 
 are situated the swimming and bathing establishments, and near 
 the most W. of the latter is the Reading Club (p. 264). 
 
 In the street, leading from the Munsterplatz in a N.W. 
 direction to the bridge, is the * Museum (PI. 13), open to the 
 public on Sund. from 10 to 12, and Wed. from 2 to 4; on 
 other days adm. 1 fr. It contains a picture-gallery and collections 
 
 of natural and scientific curiosities belonging to the town. 
 
 The picture-gallery is principally remarkable for the paintings and 
 drawings! which it contains of the younger Holbein (b, at Augsburg 1498, 
 d. at London 1554). Ante-room, I—11. Copies from Hans Holbein. — 
 Collection of drawings. 1—86, by Holbein the younger; 132, 133, 134, by 
 Durer. 157. Drawings of the ‘‘Last Judgment” in the Ludwigskirche at Munich, 
 by Cornelius. Room A, contains only pictures by Holbein: 6, 7. School: 
 master’s signboard of 1516; *15. Erasmus of Rotterdam; *25. The Passion 
 in 8 sections, for which in 1641 the Elector Maximilian of Bavaria offered 
 the sum of 30,000 1. — Room B. contains old-German pictures: 71. The 
 11,000 Virgins, by Griinewald ; 61. Miniature of Luther, by Cranach. — Room C, 
 or Bale-room: 113. Battle of St. Jacob, by Hieron. Hess; 127. Entrance int¢ 
 Bale of the confederate ambassadors in 1501 to take the oaths of allegiance 
 to the Confederation, by Landerer; 136. Schreckhorn and Wetterhorn, by 
 Calame. — Room D.: 173, Lute-player, by Teniers; Sleep the Type 0) 
 Death, by Carracci; Macbeth and the Witches, by Koch; Abraham visited by 
 the Angels, by Neher. — Room E, Birmann’s Collection: 267. The Nativity 
 
 | 
 
 1 Photographs from the originals, admirably executed and publishet 
 by the directors of the Museum, are to be had of Mr. Georg, bookseller ant 
 dealer in works of art, near the Post-office. | 
 
Monument of St. Jacob. BALE. 65. Route. 267 
 
 by An. Carracci; *270, Madonna and Child, ascribed to Gherardecia di Siena; 
 *281. Cardinal Fleury, by Phil. de Champaigne; 282. The Adoration, by 
 Mabuse; *289. Portrait, ascribed to Rembrandt; 201. The Smoker, by 
  Teniers; 311—324. Pictures by Peter Birmann; 325—330. Pictures by Sam. 
 Birmann (d, 1847), — The Cabinet of Antiquities contains Roman and 
 Greek antiquities, statuettes &c, principally found at Augst (p, 264) and 
 Windisch; old ecclesiastical vessels, idols, Swiss coins, Etruscan vases, 
 Mosaics, ke. — The Mexican Cabinet contains a number of interesting 
 _*Mexican curiosities, and among other objects of interest two mummies. 
 
 : The University Library in the same building (adm. from 
 1 to 3) contains 70—80,000 volumes and 4000 MSS.; among 
 the latter are transactions of the church council, “The praise 
 of Folly” of Erasmus, with mariginal drawings by Holbein, 
 writings of Luther, Melancthon, &c. The University, founded 
 ‘in 1459 by Pius II., is celebrated as the school of the great 
 )mathematicians Bernowilli, Merian and Euler. The hall contains 
 upwards of 100 portraits of the learned men of Bale, of the 
 -cosmographer Sebastian Miinster (d. 1552), the reformers (co- 
 lampadius and Gryneus, &c. 
 
 | The Town-Hall (Pl. 16) in the Market-place was erected 
 )in 1508 in the so-called Burgundian style, and renewed in 1826. 
 “The facade is adorned with the town-arms (a black episcopal 
 ‘staff leaning on a fisherman’s grappling-iron). The two in- 
 scriptions mark the height which the Rhine attained during 
 ‘inundations. In the court is erected a statue of Munatius 
 Plancus, founder of Augst (p. 264), and according to some 
 ‘authorities of Bale also. 
 
 The handsome Spahlen-Thor (St. Paul, Pl. 17), erected 
 about the year 1400, deserves inspection; the other gates, 
 ‘bastions and ramparts are converted into public walks. 
 
 _ Among other Architectural Curiosities of the middle 
 ‘ages may be mentioned the Fischmarkt-Fountain (Pl. 8), erected 
 in the 14th cent., the Spahlen-Fountain, with a bagpiper from 
 ‘a design by Albert Durer, the Roman archway in the old 
 “St. Alban’s Monastery (Pl. 1). The Barfiisser-Church (Pl. 2), 
 dating from the beginning of the 13th cent., with its very 
 ‘lofty choir, now serves as a store-house. 
 
 _ The Monument of St. Jacob (PI. 5), a Gothic obelisk, 
 (10 min. walk S.E. from the Aischen gate on the high-road 
 ‘to the Munster-Thal, was erected in 1824 over the busial place 
 ‘of Swiss soldiers who ‘fell in 1444 fighting for the liberties 
 ‘of their country. Large bodies of irregular troops had assembled 
 ‘in France under the Count Armagnac, with 30,000 of which 
 the Dauphin marched against the Confederates at Bale. The 
 latter were stationed at the fortress of Farnsburg, about 
 15 M. S.E. from the town, and on the approach of the French 
 1300 men immediately attempted to force their passage to 
 
 Bale. After a desperate conflict they were all cut to pieces 
 : 
 
968 Route 65. BALE. 
 
 near the village of St. Jacob where the last and bloodiest 
 struggle took place. The red ‘wine (not of a very superior 
 quality), yielded by the vineyards which now occupy the scene 
 
 of the battle, is known by the name of ‘Swiss Blood.” 
 
 The Mission-house (Pl. 12) educates missionaries for the promulgation of 
 Christianity among the heathen. An excellent Society for the promotion of 
 the public welfare has existed in Bale, for 82 years, and has a very extensive 
 sphere of operations. Under its auspices are clothing-clubs, Sunday-schools. | 
 and classes for instruction in music, singing, swimming &e., popular libraries, — 
 saving-banks, loan and sick-funds &c, &c. There are also similar institutions: | 
 in the neighbourhood, supported by contributions from Bale, such as the | 
 Deaf and Dumb Asylum, Establishment for the Education of Protestant Sisters | 
 of Charity and Reformatory at Riehen, &c. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 The pages printed in Jtalics refer to facts of minor importance, 
 
 vAare, the 263. 
 
 Achern 217. 21 
 
 Achkarren 243. 
 
 Adenau 60. 
 
 Adolpbseck, ruin of 155. 
 
 Aha 263. 
 
 Ahr, valley of the 56,155. 
 
 Ahrweiler 58. 
 
 Aix-la-Chapelle 6, 
 
 Albbruck 263. 
 
 Albersbach 258. 
 
 Albersweiler 195. 
 
 Albshausen 87. 
 
 Albstrasse, the 263. 
 
 Aldegund 124, 
 
 Alf 123. 126, 
 
 Alken 126. 
 
 Allerheiligen 254. 276. 
 
 Allerheiligenberg, the 91. 
 
 Allner, castle of 40. 
 
 Alsbacher Schloss, the172. 
 
 Alsenz 189. 
 
 Altarstein, the 176. 
 
 Alt-Breisach 244, 
 
 Alt-Eberstein 214. 215 
 
 Alte Haus, the 86. 
 
 Alte Mann, the 246. 
 
 Altena 41. 
 
 Altenahr 59, 
 
 Altenbamberg 189. 
 
 Altenberg, abbey of 38, 
 
 Altenburg, ruin of 126, 
 
 Altenhundem 41. 
 
 Altglashitte 263. 
 
 Altkonig, the 169. 767. 
 
 \lt-Leiningen, castle of 
 190. 
 
 \lzette, the 116. 
 
 st. Amarin 236. 231. 
 
 Amerongen 15. 
 
 Ameyde 14. 
 
 Amsterdam 17. 
 
 {n der Haardt 231. 
 
 in der Halde 243. 
 
 Andernach 65. 74. 147. 
 
 (\nnweiler 194, 788. 195, 
 
 Ans 5. 
 
 intogast 255. 
 
 intonacum v.Andernach. 
 
 Antoniusstein 71, 
 
 Antweiler 61, 
 
 Antwerp 6. 
 
 (pollinarisberg, the 62. 
 
 | Spy 
 
 ‘pollinarisbrunnen 58, 
 
 6. 254, 
 
 St. Apollonius-Capelle, the 
 243. 
 
 Appelbach, the 189. 
 
 Appenweier 217. 276. 
 
 Aquisgranum v. 
 Chapelle. 
 
 Arctaunon v. Saalburg. 
 
 Ardey mountains, the 22, 
 
 Aremberg, castle of 61. 
 
 Arenberg 75. 
 
 Arenfels” 63. 148. 
 
 Argentoratum vy. 
 burg. 
 
 Ariendorf 63. 
 
 Arnheim 15. 77, 
 
 Arnstein 85, 
 
 Arnual 198. 
 
 Arras, ruin of 123, 
 
 Arzheim 83. 
 
 Assenet 6. 
 
 Assmaunshausen 104. 88. 
 
 Asterstein, the 82. 
 
 Auerbach 173. 
 
 Auggen 245, 
 
 Aug. Nemetum v. Speyer. 
 
 Aug. Trevirorum vy. Tre- 
 ves. 
 
 Aulhausen 108. 
 
 Aumenau 87, 
 
 Aurelia aquensis v. Ba- 
 den. 
 
 Baal 11. 
 
 Bacharach 101. 88. 147 
 
 Baden 210. 236. 
 
 Baden, Haus 247, 
 
 Badenweiler 246. 245, 
 
 Baderlei, the 84; 
 
 Baiersbronn 253, 
 
 Baldenweg Chalet 
 
 Balduinstein 86. 
 
 Bale 264. 245, 
 
 Balkhausen 176. 
 
 Barbelstein, castle of 195. 
 
 Bardenberg 11. 
 
 Birenfels 262. 
 
 Barenthal, the 259, 
 
 Barmen 21. 
 
 Barr 232. 
 
 Bassenheim 74. 
 
 Bastenhaus, the 189. 
 
 Bausenberg, the 74. 
 
 Beckingen 114. 
 
 Bedburg Ld 
 
 Beerfelden BIIVML75 
 
 Beilstein 124. 
 
 236 
 Aix-Ja- 
 
 Stras- 
 
 259. 
 
 Belchen, the 248, 23 
 Gebweiler, the 298. 
 Bell 73. 
 Bellingen 245. 
 Bendorf 68. 
 Bennhausen 190, 
 Benrath 24, 
 Bensberg, castle of 42, 
 Bensheim 173. 
 Bergerbach, the 260. 
 Bergstrasse, the 172. 
 Bergzabern 195. 
 Bermersbach 251. 
 Berncastel 122. 
 Bertrich 123. 
 Besselich, Haus 69. 
 Bettenfeld 132. 
 Betuwe, the 15. 
 Betzdorf 41. 
 Beuern 215. 
 Beuggen 264. 
 Beul 58. 
 Bexbach 197. 
 Biburk 138. 
 Bickenbach 175. 
 Bickensohl 243. 
 Bieberach 257. 
 Biebrich 137. 89. 146. 
 Bildstock tunnel, the 197, 
 Bingen 105. 89. 146. 
 Bingerbriick 109. 146. 89, 
 Binger Loch, the 104. 88. 
 Birgeler Kopf, the148, 52. 
 Birkenau 177. 174, 178. 
 Birkenfeld 111. 209, 
 Birkenhordt 195. 
 Birresborn 130. 728, 
 Bischofstein 125. 
 3ischoffsheim 166. 
 3ischweier 211. 
 Bischweiler 222. 
 Black Forest, the 249, 
 Blankenberg 40. 
 Blankenstein 22, 
 St. Blasien 262. 
 Blauen, the 247. 2 
 Bleidenstadt 155. 
 Blicherthal, the 102, 
 Bludenberg, the 233. 
 Boéckelheim, ruin of 109. 
 Bockenheim 166. 
 30dendorf 57. 
 Bodenheim 226, 
 Bodenthal 104, 
 Bodingen 40. 
 
 172. 
 
 28.237, 
 
270 
 
 Bohl 195. 
 Bolverhahn, the 55. 
 Bolweiler 228. 
 Bombogen 133. 
 Bonames 42. 
 Bonconica v. Oppenheim. 
 Bonn 43. 149. 
 Alte Zoll 46. 
 Minster, the 46. 
 Museum of Antiquities 
 46. 
 Schloss, the 45. 
 Statue of Beethoven 46. 
 University 45. 
 Boos 110. 
 Boosenburg, the 134. 
 Boppard 93. 88. 147. 
 Bornhofen 95. 88. 
 Bos, the 133. 136. 
 
 Brandenburger Thal 260. 
 
 Braubach 93. 88. 147. 
 
 Brauneberg, the 122. 
 
 Brauweiler 13. 
 
 Braunfels 86. 
 
 Breisach 244, 243. 
 
 Breisgau, the 236. 
 
 Breitbacher Kreuz, the 56. 
 
 Breitenbach 235. 
 
 Bremm 124. 
 
 Brennet 263. 262. 
 
 Bressoir, the 233. 
 
 Brey 92. 147. 
 
 Briedel 123. 
 
 Brigittenschloss, the 252. 
 254. 
 
 Brockscheid 132, 
 
 Brodenbach 125. 
 
 Brohl 64. 147. 
 
 Brohlbach, the 64. 
 
 Brohlthal, the 69. 
 
 Brémserburg, castle 104. 
 
 Bruchhof, the 52. 
 
 Bruchsal 205. 
 
 Brudeldreis, the 131. 
 
 Brihl 149. 
 
 Brunhildenstein, the 169. 
 
 Brussels 1. 
 
 Bruttig 124. 
 
 Bubenhausen 89. 
 
 Buchholz near Boppard 
 94. 
 
 Buchholz near Mander- 
 scheid 131, 132. 
 
 Budenheim 89. 
 
 Biiderich, island of 17. 
 
 Buhl 216. 
 
 Buhlbach 2538. 
 
 Buir 18. 
 
 Bulach 209. 
 
 Bullay 124. 
 
 Bunte Kuh, the 58. 
 
 Burbach 41, 
 
 Burg 258. 
 
 Burgberg, the 13. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Burgbrohl 74. 
 
 Birgein 247. 
 
 Burtscheid 9. 
 
 Buruncum vy, Worringen. 
 
 Burweiler 193. 
 
 Busenberg 195. 
 
 Bussang, Col de 236. 
 
 Bittenstein Falls 254. 
 
 Butzbach 41. 
 
 Calear 17. 
 
 Caleum 19. 
 
 Callenfels 110. 
 
 Callstadt 190. 
 
 Calvarienberg 58. 
 
 Camp 95. 88. 
 
 Capellen 90. 147. 
 
 Cappel 254. 
 
 Cappeler Thal, the 254. 
 
 Carden 125. 
 
 Carlsberg, castle of 197. 
 
 Carlsburg, castle of 102. 
 
 Carlshalle, the 113. 109. 
 
 Carlshéhe, the 10. 
 
 Carlsruhe 206. 
 
 Casselburg, the 130. 
 
 Castel 145. 167. 
 
 Castell 115. 
 
 Castellum Magontiacum 
 vy. Mayence. 
 
 Castrum Divitensium v. 
 Deutz. 
 
 Cat, the 88. 
 
 Caub 100. 88. 
 
 Champignon, the 173, 
 
 Chaudfontaine 5, 
 
 Chinée 5. 
 
 St. Chrischona 261. 
 
 Clarenthal 153. 
 
 Clef, the 115. 
 
 Clemenskirche 109. 8@. 
 
 Cleve 39. 16. 17. 
 
 Clotten 125. 
 
 Cobern 126. 
 
 Coblenz 75. 126. 147. 
 
 Cochem 125. 
 
 Colmar 227. 244. 
 
 Cologne 25. 149. 
 *Apostles’ Chureh 33. 
 Archiepiscopal Museum 
 
 ae. 
 
 — Palace 33- 
 Arresthaus 33. 
 Arsenal 32. 
 Bayenthurm 37. 
 Botanical garden 38, 
 ** Cathedral 28. 
 St. Cecilia 34. 
 Cemetery 38. 
 St. Andreas 32. 
 Courts of Justice 32. 
 St, Cunibert 33. 
 Diorama 25. 34. 
 Free harbour 37. 
 *St. Gereon 33. 
 
 Cologne. 
 Government - buildings 
 33. 
 *Gross-St. Martin 35. 
 *Giirzenich, the 30. 
 Hospital 34. 
 Tron-bridge 37. 
 Jesuits’ Church 32. 
 * St. Maria im Capitol 34. 
 Mariensaule, the 33. 
 Mauritius Church 34. 
 Minoritenkirche 36, 
 *Museum 36. 
 St. Pantaleon 37. 
 St. Peter’s Church 34. 
 *Rathhaus or ‘Town- 
 hall 35. 
 Roman tower 33. 
 Rubens’ house 34. 
 Safety harbour 37. 
 St. Severin 36. 
 Synagogue 37. 
 Templars’ lodge 35. 
 Theatre 32. 
 Town fortifications 38. 
 Town garden 38. 
 Town-wall 37. 
 Trinity Church 37. 
 *St. Ursula 32. 
 Zoological garden 37. 
 Colonia Agrippina v.Co- 
 logne. 
 Colonia Augusta Rau- 
 racorum v. Bale. 
 Confluentes v. Coblenz. 
 Conz 115. 
 Corsika 178. 
 Cramberg 86. 
 Crefeld 11. 6. 
 Creuzthal 41. 
 Croff 122. 
 Cronberg 170. 168. 
 Cronthal 170. 768. 
 Cues 122. 
 Culenborg 14. 
 Curve 89. 
 Dabo 231. 
 Dachsburg 231. 
 Dagsburg 227. 
 Dahn 195. 188. 
 Dannenfels 190. 189. 
 Darmstadt 171. 
 Dattenberg 63, 
 Daun 128. 127. 
 Dauner Maare 128, 
 Dausenau 84. 
 Deidesheim 192. 
 Deile, the 21. 
 Denzlingen 238, 257. 
 Dernau 59. 
 Deurenburg, ruin of 96. 
 Deutz 38. 25. 
 Devil’s Ladder 103. 
 Dhaun, ruins of 110. | 
 
Dieblich 126. 
 Diedenbergen 167. 
 Dielkirchen 189. 788, 
 
 Diemerstein, ruin of 196. 
 
 ‘Dietenmthle 151, 
 Dietkirchen 87. 
 
 Dietz 86. 
 
 Dill, valley of the 41. 
 Dilldorf 21, 
 
 Dillingen 114, 
 Dilsberg, castle of 186, 
 Dinglingen 237, 
 
 Dinkholder Brunnen 93. 
 Dissibodenberg 110. 114. 
 
 Dockweiler 129, 
 
 Dogern 263. 
 
 Dolhain 6, 
 
 Dombruch, the 49, 
 Donaueschingen 256. 
 Donnersberg, the 189, 788, 
 Donnersberger Hof, farm- 
 | house of 189. 
 Doorenward, castle of 15. 
 Jormagen 39, 
 
 Dornach 228. 
 
 Jortmund 22, 21. 23, 
 Jrachenfels, ruin of 49. 
 WD oes dole 
 Jraischbrunnen, the 148, 
 Jrei Furstenstein, the 251. 
 Jreis 129. 
 
 Jreisam, the 237, 
 
 — valley of the 258. 
 Jreysen 190, 
 
 Jromm, the 178, 175, 
 Juhn, the 24, 
 
 Yuinhoog 15. 
 
 duisburg 20. 
 
 Juivelshuis 16. 
 
 Julken 11, 
 
 yumpelfeld 60. 467, 
 Yuren 13. 
 
 yurkheim 190. 188, 
 Jurlach 206, 
 
 lurnomagus v. Dorma- 
 
 gen, ‘ 
 Jusemond 122. 
 Mussel, the 20, 
 
 dusseldorf 18. 6, 72, 
 
 Yasselthal 19, 
 hutenhofen 41. 
 attweiler 187, 
 
 'yck, castle of 11. 
 yyle, the 1.-4. 
 berbach in the Oden- 
 wald 179. 175. 
 
 berbach in the Rhein- 
 gau 136. 89, 133, 
 
 sbernburg, ruins of 113, 
 109. 188, 
 
 berstadt 172. 
 
 berstein 214, 
 /bersteinburg 210, 
 
 bersteinschloss 215. 210, 
 
 td. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 9rQ 
 
 Ebnet 258. 
 Eckfeld 127. 132. 
 Eckle, the 251. 
 Ede 15. 
 Edelfrauleins Grab 254, 
 Edenkoben 223, 188, 193. 
 Ediger 124, 
 Efringen 245. 
 Egisheim 227, 
 Ehrang 122. 
 Ehrenbreitstein 80. 
 Ehrenburg, ruin of 125. 
 94, 
 Ehrenfels 104. 88. 
 Ehrenthal 96. 
 Eibingen 134, 89, 
 Eich 74, 
 Eichberg 133. 
 Eifel, the 126. 
 Eimeldingen 245, 
 Eineburg or Emmaburg 6, 
 Eisenberg 190, 
 Eitorf 40, 
 Elberfeld 21, 
 Elisabeth spring, the 112. 
 Elisenbrunnen, the 9. 
 Elisenhéhe near Bingen 
 106. 
 Elisenhéhe 
 feld 21. 
 Eller 124, 
 Elsen 15. 
 Elsenz, the 186. 
 Elst 15, 
 Eltville or Elfeld 136, 89, 
 Eltz, Schloss 125, 
 Elz, the 237. 
 Emmaburg 10. 
 Emmendingen 
 Emmerich 16, 
 Ems 83. 
 Engehdélle, the 
 Engelburg, the 
 Engelrath 38, 
 Engers 68, 
 Engersgau, the 68. 
 Enkireh 123, 
 Ennepe, the 21. 
 Ensival 5. 
 Epinal 236, 
 Eppstein 168, 
 Erbach in the Odenwald 
 Leos L709. 
 Erbach in the Rheingau 
 1367 9: 
 Erdenburg, the 42. 
 Erdmannleinshéhle 262, 
 Erensberg 129, 
 Erft, the 13. 
 Erkelenz 11. 
 Erkrath 20, 
 Erlenbach 195. 
 Erlenbad, the 216, 254. 
 Erpel 62, 59. 
 
 89, 
 
 near Elber- 
 
 100, 
 
 228. 
 
 201 
 
 Erpeler Lei 62. 
 
 Ertzweiler tunnel 230. 
 
 Erzkasten, the 243, 
 
 Eschbach 193, 188, 
 
 Eschhofen 87. 
 
 Eschweiler 13. 
 
 Esemael 4, 
 
 Essen 23. 
 
 Ettenheim 237. 
 
 Ettlingen 209. 
 
 Ettringen 74, 
 
 Ettringer-Beller-Kopf 73. 
 
 Fachbach 83. 
 
 Fachingen 86, 
 
 Fahr 66, 
 
 Fahrbach 177, 
 
 Falkenburg, ruin of 103. 
 68, 
 
 Falkenlei, the 124, 
 
 Falkenlust 149. 
 
 Falkenstein in the Breis- 
 
 gau 258. 
 
 — inthe Taunus 169.168, 
 
 Favorite, the 215. 209. 
 210, 
 
 Fecht, the 234, 
 
 Feldberg, the, in the Black 
 Forest 259, 
 
 Feldberg, the, in the Tau- 
 nus 169. 167. 
 
 Feidkirche, the 66, 
 
 Feldsee, the 259. 
 
 Felleringen 236. 
 
 Felsberg, the, in the Hife} 
 E23; 
 
 Felsberg, the, in the Oden- 
 wald 175. 
 
 Felsenmeer, the 176. 
 
 Fetzberg, ruin of 41, 
 
 Fijenoord 14. 
 
 Filsen 93. 88. 
 
 Finthen 140. 
 
 Fischbach 6n 
 109; “tie 
 
 Fischbach in the Taunus 
 168. 
 
 FleckertshGhe, the 94, 
 
 Florsheim 167. 
 
 Forbach 251. 
 
 Fornich 65, 
 
 Forst 192. 
 
 Forstberg, 
 
 Fraipont 5. 
 
 Frankenburg, the, near 
 Aix-la-Chapelle 9. 12. 
 
 Frankenburg, the, in the 
 Vosges 232. 
 
 Frankenstein 196. 
 
 -—, ruin of 172: 
 
 Frankenthal 225. 
 
 Frankfurt 156. 42. 
 * Ariadneum, the 164. 
 Bridge, the old 162. 
 Borse (Exchange) 160. 
 
 the Nahe 
 
 the 73. 
 
272 
 
 Frankfurt. 
 * Cemetery 164. 
 Church of St. Catherine 
 162. 
 — of St. Leonhard 161. 
 — of St. Paul 160. 
 Citizens’ club 165. 
 Deutsch - Ordenshaus 
 162. 
 Diet 165. 
 *Dioramina 157. 
 *Dom, the 161. 
 Exhibition of the Art- 
 union 157. 
 Goethe’s house 159. 
 Guard-house 165. 
 Hospital 163. 
 Judengasse (Jews’ str.) 
 163. 
 Liebfrauenkirche 162. 
 *Monument of Goethe 
 158. 
 *__ of Gutenberg 158. 
 — Hessian 163. 
 Nicolaikirche, the 161. 
 Police-station 163. 
 PRrehn’s Picture gallery 
 162. 
 * Romer, the 159. 
 Saalhof, the 161. 
 Senckenberg Society 
 164. 
 *Stadel gallery 165. 
 Statue of Charlemagne 
 162. 
 Synagogue, the new 163. 
 Town-Library 162. 
 *Zeil, the 163. 
 * Zoological garden, the 
 166. 
 Frankweiler 193. 
 Frauenstein 137. 
 Freiburg 238. 
 Fremersberg 210. 
 Frenz, castle of 13. 
 Freudenburg, castle of 115. 
 Freyersbach 255. 
 Friedberg 42, 
 Friederichsberg, the 68, 
 Friederichstein 66. 
 Friedr. - Louisen - Thurm, 
 the 259. 
 Friedrichsfeld 174, 187. 
 Frucht 85. 
 
 Firstenberg, ruin of 102. 
 
 88. 
 Furstenberg, the 17. 
 Fiurstenlager, the 173. 
 Firth 177. 
 Furtwangen 256. 
 
 Fustenburg, ruins of 102. 
 
 We c ‘ 
 Gaggenau 211. 
 
 Gammelsbacher Thal 179. 
 
 BTS: 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Gans, the 113. 
 
 Gaulsheim 134. 
 
 Gausbach 251. 
 
 Gebweiler 228. 
 
 Gees 130. 
 
 Geiersburg, the’ 192. 
 
 Geilenkirchen 11. 
 
 Geilnau 86. 
 
 Geisbach 261. 
 
 Geisberg, the 55. 
 
 Geisenheim 134. 89. 133. 
 
 Geldern 39. 
 
 Gemiinden 128. 737. 
 
 Gengenbach 257. 
 
 St. Genovefa, church of 
 74. 
 
 St. Georgen 243. 
 
 Georgenborn 156. 
 
 Gernsbach 214. 210. 250. 
 
 Geroldsau 216. 
 
 Geroldseck 229. 
 
 Geroldstein 102. 
 
 Gerolstein 130. 129. 
 
 Gerresheim 20. 
 
 Gersprenz 179. 175. 
 
 Geschwendt 260. 
 
 Geul, valley of the 6. 
 
 Geul-viaduct 10. 
 
 Gevelsberg 21. 
 
 Giersberg, ruin of 227. 
 
 Giessen 41. 
 
 Gillenfeld 127. 
 
 Gimmeldingen 192. 
 
 Gladbach 11. 
 
 Glan, the 110. 
 
 Gleiberg, ruin of 41. 
 
 Gleisweiler 193. 795.224, 
 
 St. Goar 96. 8&8. 147. 
 
 St. Goarshausen 97. 88. 
 
 Goch 39. 
 
 Godenhaus 63. 
 
 Godesberg, castle of 148. 
 48, 
 
 Goldenfels, castle of 102. 
 
 Golheim 190. 
 
 Gondorf 126. 
 
 Gonnersdorf 75. 
 
 Gorxheim 174. 
 
 Gottsau 206. 
 
 Graach 122. 
 
 Grifenberg, the 137. 
 
 Gréfinburg, ruin of 122. 
 
 Grifrath 20. 
 
 Graupenwerth, island of 
 42. 
 
 Grau-Rheindorf 42. 
 
 Greifenstein, ruin of 229, 
 
 Grenzach 245. 264. 
 
 Griesbach 255, 252. 
 
 Grieth 17. 
 
 Grindenbach, the 254. 
 
 Grossenbaum 20. 
 
 Gross-Litgen 135. 
 
 Gross-Sachsen 174, 
 
 Griinde, the 253. 
 Grinstadt 190. 188. 
 Gildenbach, the 102. 
 Gils 126. 
 
 Gumpen 175. 
 Guntersblum 225. 
 Giinthersthal, the 242, 
 Gunzenbachthal, the 212. 
 Gutach 256. 
 
 Gutenfels, castle of 88. 
 
 Gute Mann, chapel of the 
 
 67. 
 Haanenburg 56. 
 Haardt 193. 
 —, the 188. 
 Haberacker 231. 
 Hachimette 233. 
 Hagen 21. 47. 
 Hagenau 223. 
 Hager 231. 
 — Hof 56. 
 — Kdoppelchen 56. 
 Hahnebach, the 110. 
 Hain 74. 
 Hallgarten 135. 89. 133. 
 Hambacher Schloss 188. 
 Hammerstein, ruin of 64. 
 Handschuchsheim 174. 
 Hanselmann’s caves 84. 
 Hardenstein, ruins of 22. 
 Hartenburg, ruins of 192. 
 tartjesberg 16. 
 Hasebiihl, the 190, 
 Hasel 262, 
 Haselbach valley 98. 
 Haspe 21. 
 Hasselt 4. 
 Hasslach 257, 250. 
 Hassloch 195. 
 Hattenheim 135. 8&9. 
 Hattersheim 167. 168. 
 Hattingen 22. 
 Hatzenport 125. 
 Hauen-Eberstein 210- 
 Haus Loo or Candia 16. 
 Hausach 257. 253. 
 
 Hausen in the Taunus 102.) 
 — in the Black Forest: 
 
 260. 
 Hecklingen 237. 
 Heidekamm, the 56. 
 Heidelberg 179. 175. 
 Heidenbad, the 235. 
 Heidenberg, the 150, 
 
 Heidenmauer near Durk- 
 
 heim 192. 
 
 Heidenmauer, the, near: 
 
 Wiesbaden 150. 
 Heidenoord 16. 
 Heidesheim 146. 
 Heilbrunnen, the 71. 
 Heiligenberg 185. 275. 
 Heilig- Kreuz 238. 
 Heiligkreuzsteinach 178. 
 
Teimbach 68. 
 feimenberg, the 15. 
 feimersheim 58, 
 Leisterbach 54. 
 leisterbacherrott 54, 
 leitersheim 244, 
 lelenenberg, the 148. 
 lelfenstein, the 82, 
 Teller, the 41. 
 
 feltorf, castle of 20. 
 femmerich 53. 50, 
 femmersbach, castle of 13. 
 femmessem 57. 
 femsbach 174, 
 
 fennef 40, 
 
 leppenheim 174. 
 leppingen 57, 
 
 ferbesthal 6. 
 -erchenberg, 
 ‘erdecke 22. 
 lergenrad 6. 
 fernsheim 225. 
 -errenberg, the 235. 2317, 
 Terschwiesen 94, 
 lerxheim 190. 
 ferzogenrath 11, 
 esbaye, the 4. 
 
 leteren 15, 
 
 illesheim 128. 
 ‘ipertsau 251, 
 immelreich, the 258, 
 
 : 
 
 the 74. 
 
 inter-Weidenthal 188. 
 interweiler 129. 
 interzarten 259, 
 ‘. Hippolyte 232. 
 aS, 
 
 227. 
 
 lirschensprung, the 258, 
 lirschhorn 178. 775, 
 irtenfels, the 189. 
 irzenach 96, 88. 
 ochburg, ruins of 238, 
 ‘ochdahl 20. 
 
 ochheim 167, 
 ‘ochkelch, the 248, 
 lochkreuz, the 149. 
 ‘ochspeyer 196. 
 
 ‘Ochst 166. 
 ochstidter valley 173. 
 “ochstein, the 73. 
 
 | pete the 13, 
 
 ofheimer Chapel, 
 167. 168. 
 ‘oh-Barr, castle of 229. 
 e237, 
 ohkénigsburg 232, 227, 
 m231, 237, 
 fohe Acht, the 60. 74. 
 124. 
 lohe Kelberg, the 124, 
 lohe Wurzel, the 155. 
 tohen- or Dreien - Egis- 
 {heim 227. 
 fohenfels 129. 
 Barpeker’s Rhine. 
 
 the 
 
 leimburg, ruin of 103. 88. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Hohen-Geroldseck, castle 
 OL 237, 257. 
 Hohen-Kandel, the 238. 
 Hohenlandsberg 227, 
 Hohen-Rappoltstein 227. 
 
 Hohenstein in the Wifel 
 129. 
 
 Hohenstein in the Oden- 
 wald 176. 
 
 Hohenstein, ruin of, near 
 Schwalbach 155. 
 
 Johannesberg 110. 
 Johannisberg near Nau- 
 heim 42. 
 Johannisberg, castle of, 
 in the Rheingau 134. 89, 
 133. T46. 
 St. John, church of 91, 
 Jugenheim 175. 
 Jungfernsprung, the 195, 
 Kaiserberg, the, near Her- 
 decke 22. 
 
 Hohen-Syburg, ruins of} Kaisersberg in Alsace 227, 
 
 22. 41. 
 
 Hohneck, ruin of 108. 
 
 Hohr 69. 
 
 HOlle, the 258, 262. 
 
 Hollenhaken, the 264. 
 
 Hollenpass, the 258. 
 
 Holzwalder Héhe 255. 
 
 Homberg 12. 77. 
 
 Homburg in the Palati- 
 nate 197, 
 
 Homburg in the Taunus 
 170. 42. 168. 
 
 Honnef 56, 50. 52, 
 
 Hénningen 64. 
 
 Hontheim 126. 
 
 Horchheim 90. 82. 
 
 Hordt 222. 
 
 Horn, the 60. 
 
 Hornberg 256. 
 
 Horngraben, the 132. 
 
 Hornisgrinde, the 252,276, 
 217. 250. 
 
 Horrem 13. 39. 
 
 Hubbad 216. 
 
 Hummelsberg, the 63. 
 
 Hummerich, the 67. 
 
 Hunaweier 233. 
 
 Hundem, valley ofthe 41. 
 
 Huissen 16, 
 
 *t Huis ten Donk 14, 
 
 Hiiningen 229, 245, 
 
 Hunnsrticken mountains 
 109. 
 
 Idar 111. 
 
 Ween igi. 179; 
 
 Ilbesheim 193. 
 
 Ill, the 218, 
 
 Immeneich 263. 
 
 Inde, the 13. 
 
 Ingelheimer Au, the 138. 
 
 Irlich 66. 
 
 Isenachthal, the 191. 
 
 Isenburg in Alsace 228. 
 
 Isenburg in Rhenish Prus- 
 Sia 68. 
 
 Issel 122. 
 
 Tstein 145. 
 
 Jaarsveld 14, 
 
 Jacobsberger Hof 93. 
 
 Jesuitenhof, the 43. 
 
 Jettenbiihl, the 185. 
 
 St. Johann 197, 
 
 2ols 200~ 
 Kaisersberg,the, near Linz 
 63. 
 Kaiserslautern 196. 
 Kaiserstrasse, the 190. 
 Kaiserstuhl, the, near 
 Freiburg 243. 237, 
 Kaiserstuhl, the, 
 Heidelberg 185. 
 Kaiserswerth 19. 77. 
 Kalkofen 86. 
 Kalmit, the 223. 
 Kalscheuren 149, 
 Kalsmunt, ruins of 41. 
 Kaltebach, the 195. 788. 
 Kaltenborn 60. 
 Kaltenengers 68, 
 Kambach 12. 
 Kammerberger Miihle 102, 
 Kander, the 245, 
 Kandern 247. 
 Kappeler Thal, the 243. 
 Karthause, the 79. 
 Kasbach 62. 
 Kasbachthal, the 63. 
 Kaskeller, the 123. 
 Katz, castle of 97, 
 Katzenbuckel, the 197. 
 Kauzenberg, ruin of 112. 
 Kedrich, the 103. 
 Kehl 217. 
 Kelberg, the 124. 
 Keltersbach 166, 
 Kempen 39. 
 Kempenich 60. 74. 
 Kempten 134. 
 Kenfuss 123. 
 Kenzingen 237. 
 Kerpen 13, 
 Kesselheim 69. 
 Kestert 88. 
 Kevelaer 39. 
 Kiedrich 133. 89. 137. 
 Kinderdijk 14, 
 Kinsheim, castle of 
 Kinzig, the 237, 256. 
 Kippenheim 237. 
 Kirchen 41. 
 Kirchweiler 129, 
 Kirchzarten 258. 
 Kirn 110, 
 Kirsch 122, 
 
 near 
 
 227. 
 257. 
 
 > 
 
274 
 
 Kislau 205. 
 Klause, the 135. 
 Klein-Basel 245, 264. 
 Kleinenbruch 11, 
 Kleinkembs 245 
 Klein-Laufenburg 263. 
 Klingel, chapel 210. 
 Klopp, castle of 106, 
 Klosterrath, abbey of 11. 
 Klutert, the 21. 
 Kniebis, the 253. 250, 
 Kniebis-Baths 255, 
 Koblenz in Switzerland 
 263. 
 Kohlscheid 11. 
 KKolmbach 176. 
 Koln in the Palatinate 189, 
 Konigsbach 192. 196. 
 Kdnigs-Born, the 140. 
 Konigsdorf 13, 
 Konigshofen 217. 
 Koénigskreuz 190, 
 Konigssitz, the 15, 
 Konigstein 168. 
 Konigsstuhl, the, near the 
 Donnersberg 189. 
 Konigsstuh], the, near 
 Heidelberg 185. 
 Konigsstuhl, the, near 
 Rhense 92. 147, 
 Koénigswald, the 235. 
 Konigswinter 48. 748. 
 Korretsburg, ruins of 74. 
 Krahnenberg, the 147, 
 Kralingen 14. 
 Kreuzberg on the Ahr 60, 
 —, the, near Bonn 47. 
 149, 
 Kreuznach 112, 109, 188. 
 Krimpen 14, 
 Krippe 63. 
 Kronenburg, ruins of 114. 
 Kropsburg, ruins of 223. 
 Krotzingen 244. 
 Kruft 74. 
 Krufter Ofen, the 72. 
 Krith 235. 
 Kiihkopf, the 79, 
 Kiihr 126. 
 Kunostein-Engers 126. 
 Kuppenheim 210, 
 Kuppersteg 24, 
 Kybfelsen, the 243. 
 Kyll, the 1380. 131. 152, 
 Kyrburg, ruins of 110, 
 Laach, abbey of 72. 
 —, hamlet of 59. 
 Laacher See, the 72. 
 Lac blane 233. 237. 
 Lac noir 233. 
 Ladenburg 174. 
 Laeken 1. 
 Lahn, the 41. 
 Lahn, valley of the 82, 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Lahneck, castle of 92. 83. 
 147, 
 Lahr in Baden 287, 257. 
 — inthe Seven Mountains 
 5d. 
 St. Lambrecht 96, 
 Landau 2238. 193. 
 Landberg, the 174. 
 Landen 4, 
 Landshut, ruin of 122. 
 Landskron, the, on the 
 Ahr 57. 
 Landskron, castle of, near 
 Oppenheim 225. 
 Landstuhl 196. 
 Langenau, castle of 85. 
 Langenbach 257. 
 Langenbrand 251. 
 Langenbriicken 205. 
 Langenfeld 24. 
 Langenlonsheim 109, 
 Langen-Schwalbuch 154. 
 Langenthal 178. 
 Langenseifen 102. 
 Langerwehe 13. 
 Langwertherau, island of 
 136. 
 Laubbach 90, 
 Laubenheim 226, 
 Laufenburg 268, 
 Laukenmihle 102. 
 Laurenburg 86. 
 Lautenbach 216. 
 Lauter, the 223, 
 Lauterbach 176. 
 Lay 126. 
 Leber, the 233, 
 Leberau 233. 
 Leberthal, the 227. 232. 
 Lehmen 126. 
 Leimbach 60. 
 Leiningen 190. 
 Lekkerkerk 14. 
 Leniaberg, the 89. 
 Lenne, the 22. 
 —, valley of the 41. 
 Lenzkirch Chalet 259. 262, 
 Leopolds-Canal, the 237, 
 Leopoldshthe 245. 
 Les-basses-huttes 234. 
 Les-hautes-huttes 234, 
 Leubsdorf 68. 
 Leuk, the 115. 
 Leutesdorf 65. 
 Lichtenege, castle of 237. 
 Lichtenthal 212. 
 Liebeneck, castle of 93. 
 88, 147, 
 Liebenstein 95. 88. 147, 
 Liedberg, Schloss 11. 
 Liége 5. 
 Liepvre, la 233. 
 Lierbach, the 254, 
 Lieser 122. 
 
 Lieser, the 131. 132. . 
 Limburg in Belgium 6, 
 — on the Lahn 87. 
 — in the Palatinate 191. 
 Lindenbach, the 84, 
 Lindenfels 177. 175. 179, 
 Lindern 11, 
 Lintorf 20. 
 Linz 62. 
 Linzerhausen 62. 
 Lippe, the 17, 
 Littenweiler 243. 258. 
 Lobith 16. 
 Lochmiuhle, the 59. 
 Lihnberg 87.: 
 Loéhrbacher Thal 178, 
 Lohrberg, the 55. 
 Lohrsdorf 57. 
 Longwich 122. 
 Lontzen 6. 
 Lorch 103. 88. 
 Lorchhausen 102. 88. 
 Lorettocapelle, the 242. 
 Lorrach 261, 
 Lorsch 174. 
 St. Louis 228. 
 Lousberg, the 9, 77. 
 Louvain 3. 
 Léwenburg, the 55. 53.56 
 Ludwigseiche, the 172. 
 Ludwigshafen 224. 
 Ludwigshohe inthe Oden 
 wald 177. 172. 
 Ludwigshohe in the Pala 
 tinate 193. 223, 
 Lupodunum v. Laden 
 burg. 
 Lurlei, the 98. 88. 147. 
 Lutterbach 228. 
 Liitzelburg 230. 
 Liitzelstein, the 230. 
 Lutzerath 124, - 
 Luzieberg, the 173. 
 Luxembourg 116. | 
 Madenburg, the 193, 188 
 195. | 
 Mahlberg, castle of 237, 
 Mahlberg-Kopf, the 84. _ 
 Maikammer 223. 
 Mainspitze, the 145, 
 Malchen, the 172, 
 Malines 1. 
 Mallendar 69. 
 Malschbach 216. 
 Manderscheid 131. 127. 
 Mannheim 186. | 
 St. Margarethenkreuz 5: 
 Marienberg in the Seve 
 Mountains 56. | 
 Marienberg near Boppar 
 94. 
 Marienburg, ruin of 12% 
 Marienhausen 108. 
 Marienhéhe, the 172. | 
 
— In the Rheingau 134, 
 — in the Palatinate 189. 
 — near Strasburg 223. 
 Tarkbrunnen, the 136. 
 Markirch 233. 237. 
 farksburg, the 93. 88.147. 
 farsfeld, the 65. 
 t. Martin, chapel of 93. 
 fartinstein 110. 
 fastricht 6. 
 't. Matthias, chapel of 126, 
 Tattiact fontes v. Wies- 
  baden. 
 Taus, the 96. 747. 
 Tauseberg, the 127. 
 Tausethurm, the 105. 
 faxau 208, 
 faxburg, the 223. 293. 
 Mayen 73. 
 fayence 138. 
 -* Aqueduct, the 140, 
 Arsenal, the 144. 
 *Cemetery 145. 
 Church of St. Peter 144. 
 '— of St. Stephen145. 
 Citadel, the 139, 
 *Dom, the 141, 
 
 * Bigelstein, the 139. 
 Fortress, the 140. 
 Fruchthalle, the 143. 
 Grosse Bleiche 1438. 
 Gutenbergsplatz 145. 
 Hall of Industry 145. 
 Kastrich, the 143. 
 ‘ Neue Anlage, the 145. 
 Palace of the Electors 
 «144, 
 
 — Grand-ducal 144. 
 Statue of Gutenberg 143, 
 — of Schiller 143. 
 Theatre 143, 
 
 leerfelder Maar, the 132. 
 fermicher Hof 94. 
 lehlem 51. 49. 148, 
 fehren 128. 
 
 feinerswijk, castle of 15. 
 lelibocus, the 172. 175. 
 lenzenberg 56. 
 fenzenschwand 262. 
 
 - Chalet 262, 263. 
 fercuriusberg, the 215, 
 ferl 123. 
 
 lerode 15. 
 
 lerten 40. 
 
 lertert 116. 
 
 ferzig 114. 
 
 letzeburg, the 41. 
 fetzeral 231. 
 lichaelscapelle, the 206. 
 lfichelstadt 179, 
 ‘iesenheim 74. 
 fillingen 16. 
 lilspe 21. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Aarienthal onthe Ahr 58,] Minderberg, the 63, 49. 
 
 Minder-Litgen 126. 
 Mingolsheim 205. 
 Minheim 122, 
 Mittelburg, the 179. 
 Mittel-Hambach 224. 
 Mittelheim 135. 
 Molz-Bauer 243. 
 Mombach 177. 
 Mondorf 42. 
 Monrepos, castle of 67. 
 Mons Brisiacus v. Brei- 
 sach, 
 Montclair 115. 
 Montroyal 125, 
 Monzingen 110. 
 Mooswald, the 248. 
 Mordnau 236. 
 Moresnet 10. 
 Morgenbachthal 104, 88, 
 Morlenbach 177. 
 Mosbach 137. 754. 
 Moselkern 125, 
 Moselle, the 126. 1381. 236. 
 Moselweis 126. 
 Mosenberg, the 132. 724, 
 Mouse-Tower 105. 146, 8&8. 
 Miiden 125. 
 Muggensturm 209, 
 Mihlbad, the 88. 
 Muhlburg 208. 
 Miblhausen 228, 
 Mihlheim 122, 
 Mithlhofen 68. 
 Milheim 24. 
 Millenbach 125. 
 Millheim 244, 
 Mummelsee, the 252. 
 Miinster in Alsace 234. 
 Minster am Stein 113.709. 
 188, 
 Miinstermaifeld 125. 
 Minsterthal, the 249, 
 Miinz, the 194. 
 Miinzenberg, ruins of 41, 
 Munzingen 243, 
 Murg, the 209. 214. 250. 
 Musbach 196. 
 Mutterstadt 195. 
 Nackenheim 226. 
 Nahe, the 88. 146. 
 Namedy 65, 147, 
 Nassau 85. 
 Nauheim 42, 
 Neander cavern, the 20, 
 Neanderthal, the 20, 
 Neckar, the 179. 
 Neckargemund 186. 
 Neckarsteinach 179. 175. 
 178. 
 Neef 124. 
 Neerwinden 4. 
 Neidenfels, ruin of 196, 
 Nennig 115, 
 
 Neroberg, the 89. 
 Neroth 129, 
 Nerothal 153. 
 Nerother Kopf, the 128. 
 Nessonvaux 5. 
 Nette, the 67. 147. 
 Netterhammer 74, 
 Netterhof 67. 747. 
 Neu-Breisach 244. 
 Nenecastel, ruin of 193. 
 Neudorf 137. 
 Neu-Eberstein 215. 
 Neuenahr, Baths of 58, 
 —, castle of 58. 
 Neuenburg 245. 
 Neuendorf 69. 
 Neuenheim 174. 186, 
 Neuenweg 248. 
 Neuhaus 254. 276. 253. 
 Neu-Katzenelnbogen 97. 
 Neumagen 122. 
 Neumagen Bach, the 249. 
 Neumihl in the Black 
 Forest 249. 
 Neumihl in the Eifel 132. 
 VRE 
 Neumiuhl in the Vosges231, 
 Neun Aussichten 173. 
 Neunkirchen in the Eifel 
 129. 
 — near Saarbricken 197. 
 Ths 
 Neun Kriimme, the 176. 
 Neun Linden, the 243. 
 Neuss 39. 77. 
 Neustadt 224. 788.190.196. 
 Neuwied 66. 747. 
 Nickenich 74. 
 Nidda, the 166. 
 Niederbiber 67. 
 Nieder-Breisig 64. /48, 
 Niederburg s. Bromser- 
 burg, 
 Niederburg near Cobern 
 126. 
 Niederburg near Rappolts- 
 weiler 227, 
 Niederdollendorf 48. 
 Nieder-Ernst 124. 
 Niederfell 126. 
 Niedergladbach 102, 
 Nieder-Hammerstein 64. 
 Niederhausen 109. 
 Niederheimbach 103. &&, 
 Nieder-Ingelheiin 146. 89, 
 Nieder-Kestert 96. 
 Niederlahnstein 90. 82.97, 
 Nieder-Lutzingen 74. 
 Niedermendig 75. 69, 
 Niederrad 166. 
 Niederschelden 41. 
 Niederspay 93. 88. 
 Niederwald, the 107. 
 Niederwalluf 137. 89. 
 
 18 
 
276 
 
 Niederweiler 245. 
 Niederwerth, island of 69. 
 Nieder-Zissen 74. 
 Nierenhof ae 
 Niers, the 3 
 Nierstein 22 oe 
 Nieuwfoort 14. 
 Nievern 83. 
 Nippes 64, 
 Nirm 12. 
 Nollicht or Nollingen, 
 ruins of 103. 88. 
 Nonnenstromberg, the 53. 
 Nonnenwerth, island of 
 52. 
 Norheim 109. 
 North Canal, 
 Nothberg 13. 
 Novesium v. Neuss. 
 Nirburg, ruin of 60. 124. 
 Oberabsteinach 178. 
 Oberbeuern 251. 
 Oberburg near 
 126. 
 — near Ridesheim 134, 
 Obercassel 48. 71. 
 Oberdollendorf 48. 
 Ober-Ernst 124. 
 Oberfell 126. 
 Ober-Hammerstein 64. 
 Oberhausen near Dussel- 
 dore2eAl2. 23. 
 Oberhausen on the Nahe 
 109. 
 Oberkirch 216, 
 Ober-Kutterau 263. 
 Oberlahnstein 91. 82. 
 Ober-Litzingen 74, 
 Obermossau 179. 
 Obernhof 85. 
 Ober-Reiffenberg, ruin of 
 169. 
 Ober-Rimsingen 243. 
 Oberschaffhausen 243. 
 Ob.-Schonmattenwag 178. 
 Oberstein 111. 109. 
 Oberstroth 250 
 Oberweiler 245. 
 Oberwerth 90. 147, 
 Oberwesel 99. 88. 
 Oberwinter 52. 148, 
 Ober-Zissen 74. 72. 
 Ochsenstein, ruin of 231, 
 Ochtendung 74. 
 Ockenfels, ruins of 62. 
 Odenkirchen 11. 
 Odenthal 38. 
 Odenwald, the 175. 
 Oderen 235. 
 Oeflingen 262. 
 Oelberg, the 54. 53. 
 Oestrich 135. 89. 
 Ofenkaulen-Berg 
 Offenburg 236 
 
 the 11. 
 
 Cobern 
 
 88, 
 
 , the 55. 
 253. 258. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Oggersheim 225, 
 
 Ohligsberg, the 122. 
 
 Olbruck, ruin of 74. 
 
 Oos 209. 216. 
 
 Oos- or Oelbach, the 211. 
 
 Oosterbeek 15. 
 
 Opheusden 15. 
 
 Oppenau 255, 216. 253. 
 
 Oppenheim 225, 
 
 Oranienstein, castle of 87, 
 
 Orbey 233. 231. 
 
 Orscholz 115, 
 
 Orschweier 237, 
 
 Orschweiler 227. 
 
 Orsoy 17. 
 
 Ortenau 236. 
 
 Ortenberg, castle of 257. 
 237. 
 
 Ortenberg, village of 257. 
 
 Ostend 6. 
 
 Ostern 179, 175, 
 
 Osterrath 39. 
 
 Osterspay 88. 147. 
 
 St. Oswald, chapel of 258. 
 
 Ottenau 211. 
 
 Ottenhofen 254. 250. 
 
 Ottersweier 216. 
 
 Ottilienberg, the 232. 
 
 Otzberg, the 177. 
 
 Ourthe, the 5. 
 
 Palatinate, the Bavarian- 
 Rhenish 188. 
 
 Pannerden 16. 
 
 Papenkaul, the 130, 
 
 Paris wi. 
 
 Patersberg 98. 
 
 Paulinenberg, the 155. 
 
 Pelm 130. 129. 
 
 Pepinster 5. 
 
 Perler Kopf, the 74. 
 
 Petersau, island of 138. 
 
 Petersberg near Coblenz 
 80, 147. 
 
 Petersberg in the Seven 
 Mountains 53, 54, 
 
 Peterskopf, the 192, 
 
 Petersthal 255, 
 
 Petrusbach, the 116, 
 
 Pfaffendorf 90, 82. 
 
 Pfaffendorfer Hohe 81, 82, 
 
 Pfalz or Pfalzgrafenstein 
 100. 88. 
 
 Pfalzel 121. 
 
 Pfingstbach, the 75. 
 
 Philippshalle, saline baths 
 of 191. 
 
 Pisport 122 
 
 Plaidt 74. 
 
 Platte, the 89. 
 
 Plittersdorf 48. 
 
 Poppelsdorf 47. 
 
 Prag 262. 260. 
 
 Pulvermaar, the 127. 
 
 Pulverthal, the 116. 
 
 252, 
 
 wie? 4, 
 
 Punderich 123. 
 Pyrmont, ruin of 125. 
 Queich, the 193. 223. 
 Quint, the 122, 
 Rabenlei, the 48. 
 Radscheck 73, 
 Rambach 151. 
 Ramersdorf 48. 
 Randeck, ruin of 189. 
 Rappoltsweiler 227, 231, 
 239; 
 Rasselstein 66. 
 Rastadt 209, 
 Rauenthal 155. 8&9. 137. 
 Rauhmiinzach, the 251. 
 Raunheim 166, 
 Rech 59. 
 Rees 17. 
 Reichartshausen, chateau 
 of 135. &9. 
 Reichelsheim 179, 
 Reichenbach in the Bla 
 Forest 253, 
 Reichenbach in the Oden 
 wald 176, 
 Reichenberg, castle of,’ 
 near St.Goarshausen 98. 
 Reichenberg, ruin of, near 
 Neckarsteinach 179. 
 Reichenstein, ruins of 103, 
 Reichenweier 233. 
 Reichsbusch, the 12. 
 Reifer Muhle, the 73, 
 Reil 123. 
 Reimerzhofen 59. 
 Reisberg 234. 2321. 
 Reissen 177. 
 Remagen 61. 53. 148, 
 Remiremont 236. 
 Rench, the 255. 
 Renchen 216, 217. 
 Renkum 15. 
 Renneberg, the 63. 
 Reuschenberg 24. 
 Rheinau, island of 136. 
 Rheinboéllen 102. 
 Rheinbreitbach 56. 50. 52.) 
 Rheinbrohl 64. 147. 
 Rheindiebach 88. 
 Rheineck, castle of 64, 
 74, 148, 
 Rheinfelden 264, 
 Rheinfels, ruin of 97. 88. 
 147. 
 Rheingau, the 1383. 
 Rheingrafenstein 113.188. 
 Rheinstein 104. 88. 
 Rhenen 15. 
 Rhense 92. 88, 147. 
 Rheydt 11, 
 Rhine-Marne Canal 229.) 
 230. 
 Rhine-Rhone Canal 228. 
 Rhodt 193. | 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 ( 
 
 i 
 
INDEX. 
 
 théndorf 85. 50. 
 
 Ubeauviller 227, 
 
 Richterich 11, 
 
 Niegel 237, 
 
 Viehen 261. 
 tiesensaule, the 176. 
 tietburg or Rippurg 193, 
 tigomagus v. Remagen. 
 timbach 177, | 
 timburg, castle of 11. 
 timmerich 129, 
 
 tinken 259. 
 
 tiol 122; 
 
 tippoldsau 255. 
 tittershausen 21. 
 tixheim 228, 
 tochusberg, the 89. 134. 
 tochuscapelle, the 106, 
 134, 
 
 tochette, la, castle of 5, 
 tockenhausen 189. 
 todenstein, ruin of 179. 
 \oderberg, the 52. 
 
 toer, the 11, 
 
 toisdorf 149. 
 
 tolandseck 51. 148, 
 
 olandswerth v. Nonnen- 
 werth, 
 
 \omerkessel, the 123, 
 Lomersberg, the 127, 
 ommersdorf 68. 
 onheide 6, 9. 
 
 osenau, the 53. 
 ‘ossbiihl, the 253. 
 
 ossel, the 108, 
 
 sossert, the 168. 
 
 sosskopf, the 243, 
 ossstein, the 88, 
 othenfels 210. 
 othenfels, the 114, /09. 
 Otteln 261. 
 
 otterdam 14. 
 
 ottger Schloss, the 261. 
 
 ‘ubeacum v. Ruffach, 
 
 J. Sackingen 263. 
 Saffenburg, the 59. 
 Sahler Foundry 102. 
 Salvatorberg, the 9. 
 Salzig 95. 
 
 Sandau 136. 
 Saresdorf 130. 
 Sassbach 217. 
 Sassbachwalden 217, 
 
 Sauerburg, the 103. 
 Saverne 229. 
 
 Saxler 127. 
 
 Sayn, Schloss 68, 
 Saynbach, the 68. 
 Schaafberg, the 215. 
 Schaefershof 231. 
 Schalkenmehren 127, 
 Schallerberg, the 55, 
 Schallstadt 244. 
 Schanzel, the 193. 
 Schapbach 256. 
 
 Scharfenstein 89. 
 Scharlachkopf, the 107. 
 Scharteberg, the 129, 
 
 237. 
 
 Scheerképfe, the 55, 
 Scheid 86. 
 Scheiderwald, the 74. 
 Schenkenschanz, the 16, 
 Scheuern 52. 
 Schierstein 137. 89, 
 Schifferstadt 195. 
 Schladern 40. 
 Schlangenbad 155, 
 137. 
 Schlettstadt 227. 
 Schliengen 245, 247, 
 Schlossberg, the 242. 
 Schluchsee, the 263. 
 Schmalbach 251, 
 
 ubenach 74. Schmalenstein, ruin of 
 ldesheim 133. 89. 107.) 206. 
 
 udesheimer Berg 105. |Schneidhain 168. 
 
 uffach 228. Schénau in the Black 
 
 uhr, the 12. 
 
 uhrort 12. 6. 17. 
 iingsdorf 48, 
 
 unkel 87. 
 
 apel, the 3. 
 uppertsberg 196. 
 lisselsheim 166. 
 
 fawer 121. 
 
 talburg, the 170. 
 
 var, the 197. 
 yarbricken 147. ///, 
 arburg in Alsace 230, 
 jarburg in Rhenish- 
 Prussia 115. 
 
 sarlouis 114. 
 -chsenhausen 162, 
 
 Forest 260, 
 Schonau in the Odenwald 
 178. 275: 
 Schonberg 
 243. 
 Schonberg near Heidel- 
 berg 176. 173, 
 Schénbornslust 80. 
 Schouburg, ruin of 100.88. 
 Schonmiinzach 251. 250. 
 Schonstatt 69, 
 Schonstein, castle of 40. 
 Schoonhoven 14, 
 Schopfheim 261. 
 Schriesheim 174, 
 Schuld 61. 
 
 near Freiburg 
 
 Sauer, valley of the 1038, 
 
 Scharfeneck, ruin of 193. 
 
 Schau ins Land, the 243, 
 
 Schaumburg, castle of 86. 
 
 102. 
 
 Stein, ruin of 85. 
 Steinach 257. 
 —, valley of the 178. 
 
 277 
 
 Schwabenschanz, the 253, 
 
 Schwalbach 154. 102. 137. 
 
 Schwanheim 166. 
 
 Schwarzbach, the 168. 
 
 Schwarz-Rheindorf 214. 
 
 Schwedenschanze,the 253, 
 
 Schweich 122. 
 
 Schweighof 248. 
 
 Schwelm 21, 
 
 Schweppenburg, 
 hs 
 
 Schweppenhausen 102, 
 
 Schwetzingen 187. 
 
 St. Sebastian 69. 
 
 Sechtem 149. 
 
 Seebach in the 
 Forest 252, 250. 
 
 Seebach in the Palatinate 
 192. 
 
 Seebuck, the 259, 262. 
 
 Seelach 210, 
 
 Sehringen 247, 
 
 Senhals 124, 
 
 Senne, the 1. 
 
 Seven Mountains, the 53, 
 
 Seven Virgins, the 99, 
 
 Siebeldingen 193. 
 
 Siedelsbrunn 178, 
 
 Sieg, the 40. 
 
 Siegburg 40. 
 
 Siegen 41, 
 
 Simonswald 257, 
 
 Sinzig 63. 148. 
 
 Sirnitz, the 248. 
 
 Sobernheim 110. 
 
 Soden 169. 168. 
 
 Soersthal, the 9. 
 
 Solingen 20. 
 
 Sonnborn 21. 
 
 Sonnenberg, ruin of 151. 
 
 Sooneck, castle of 103. 88. 
 
 Sophienruhe, the 246. 
 
 Spa 5. 
 
 Speyer 200. 186, 
 
 Speyerbach, the 196. 
 
 Sponheim 110. 
 
 Sprendlingen 11%. 
 
 Sprink 127, 
 
 Stahlberg, ruin of 102. 
 
 Stahleck, ruin of 102, 8&8. 
 
 Stammheim, Schloss 24. 
 
 Starkenburg, the 174. 
 
 Staudernheim 110. 
 
 Staufen 249. 
 
 Staufenberg 236. 2/4. 
 
 Staufenburg, castle of 244. 
 
 Stauffen, the 215. 
 
 Steeg 102. 
 
 Steele 21 
 
 Stefflen 128, 
 
 Steigerkopf, the 193. 
 
 castle of 
 
 Black 
 
278 
 
 Steinbach 216. 
 —, the 186. 
 Steinberg, the 136. 
 Steinborn 130. 129. 
 Stein-Callenfels, ruin of 
 PiTO. 
 Steinen 261. 
 Steinhausen, castle of 22. 
 Stenzelberg, the 54. 53. 
 Sternberg 126. 
 Sternerhutte, the 63. 
 Sterrenberg 95. 88. 147. 
 Stockhausen 87. 
 Stolberg 12. 
 Stolzenfels, 
 147, 
 Stossweier 234. 
 Strahlenburg, the 174. 
 Strasburg 217. 
 Academy 222. 
 Artillery Barracks 
 Bishop’s residence 4 
 * Cathedral 218. 
 *Church of St, Thomas 
 291, 
 Citadel 222. 
 Desaix monument 222, 
 Gutenberg place and 
 statue 220, 
 *Kleber statue 
 Museum of natural hi- 
 story 222 
 
 castle of 90. 
 
 ¢ 
 
 29 
 22 
 
 on 
 
 999 
 
 SHhlate 
 
 New Church 221. 
 Statue of the Marquis de 
 Lezay-Marnesia 221. 
 Theatre 221. 
 Town-hall 221. 
 Town Library 221. 
 University 222. 
 Strasserhof 38. 
 Streefkerk 14, 
 Strohn 127, 
 Stromberg 102. 
 Strotzbisch 126, 
 Stuben 124. 
 Suchteln 11. 
 Sultz 228. 
 Sultzeren 234. 
 Sulzbach 111, 197. 
 Sundgau, the 228. 
 Swiss Valley, the 98. 
 Tabernae v. Zabern. 
 Taunus, the 166. 
 Temple, the, on the Nie- 
 derwald 108. 
 Tempelhof, the 126. 
 Teutelsberg, the 193. 
 Teufelshaus, the 66. 
 Teufelskanzel near Ade- 
 nau 60, 
 Teufelskanzel near Baden 
 214. 215% 
 Teufelsleiter, the 196. 
 Teufelsstein, the 192. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Thann 228. 236. 
 
 Theodorshalle 113. 109. 
 
 Thiengen 243. 
 
 St. Thomas (Lunatic Asy- 
 Ium) 147. 
 
 Thur, the 228. 
 
 Thurant, ruin of 126. 
 
 Thurmberg, the 206. 
 
 Thurnberg, ruin of 96. 
 
 Tirlemont 4. 
 
 Titisee, the 260. 
 
 Todtmoos 262, 260. 
 
 Todtmoos-Au 262, 
 
 Todtnau 260. 
 
 Todtnauberg 260. 
 
 Todtnau Chalet 260. 259. 
 
 Tonnisstein 71. 
 
 Traben 123, 
 
 Trarbach 122, 
 
 Trautzberg 126. 
 
 Trechtingshausen 103, 88. 
 
 Treis 125. 
 
 Treves 111. 
 
 Trifels, ruin of 194, 188. 
 195, 
 
 Trimborn 10. 
 
 Trips, castle of 11. 
 
 Trittenheim 122. 
 
 St. Trond 4. 
 
 Trooz, le 5. 
 
 Trutzbingen 109. 
 
 Trutz-Eltz 125, 
 
 Tryberg 256. 253. 
 
 Tschiflik 197. 
 
 Tullinger Hohe, the 261. 
 
 Uedersdorf 151. 
 
 Uerdingen 12, 17. 
 
 U 
 
 T 
 
 Uffgau, the 236. 
 Ungstein 190, 
 
 Unkel 52. 50. 
 Unter-Grombach 206, 
 Unter-Reidelbach 176, 
 Unter - Schonmattenwag 
 178, 175. 
 
 Urbar 69. 
 
 Urmitz 68. 
 
 Utrecht 17. 
 
 Vallendar 69, 
 
 Valwig 124. 
 
 Veitskopf, the 71. 
 
 Velp 16, 
 
 Veluwe 15. 
 
 Verviers 5. 
 
 Vesdre, the 5, 
 Vianen 14, 
 
 Vieille Montagne 10. 
 Viersen 11. 
 
 Vilmar $7. 
 
 Vilvorde 1. 
 Virneberg 56. 
 Virneburg 61. 
 Vohwinkel 20. 
 
 Vollraths, castle of 89. 733, | 
 Volmarstein 22. 
 
 ‘Volme, the 22. 
 
 Vorder-Langenbach 251. 
 Vosges, the 229. 231. 193, 
 Vreeswijk 14. | 
 Wachenheim 192. 
 Wachten- or Geiersburg, | 
 ruin of 192. 
 Wadenheim 58. 5 | 
 Wagenberg, the 1 
 Wageningen 15. } 
 Waldboéckelheim 110. 
 Waldkirch 257. 238. 
 Waldmichelbach 178. 175. 
 Waldshut 2638. 
 Wallersheim 69. 
 Wallhausen 111. 
 Walporzheim 58. | 
 Wambach 156. 
 Waremme 4. 
 Warmbach 264. 
 Wartenstein, castle of 110. 
 Wartesberg, the 127. 
 Wassenach 71. 
 Wasserbillig 115. 
 Weberlei, the 131. 
 Weeze 39. 
 Weghiibler Kopf, the 65._ 
 Wehr 262. 
 Wehra, the 262. 
 Wehrathal, the 262. 
 Weiher 193. 
 Weil 261. 
 Weilbach 167. 
 Weilburg 87. 
 Weinfelder Maar, the 127. 
 IZGR ISL. 
 Weingarten 206, 
 Weinheim 174. 
 Weiss, the 234. 
 Weissenau 226. 
 Weissenauer Lager, the 
 141. 
 Weissenbach 251. 
 Weissenburg 223. 
 Weissenthurm 67. 747. 
 Weiten 115. 
 Weitersweiler 189. 
 Welkenhausen, castle of €. 
 Welmich 102. 88. 155. 
 St. Wendel 111. 
 Wendenheim 229, 
 Werden. 24, 
 St. Werner, church of 101. 
 Werth 13. ; 
 Weschnitz, the 174. 175. 
 WEE: 
 Wesel 17. 
 Wespelaer 3. 
 Wesserling 236. 
 Westrich, the 196. 
 Wetter 22. 
 Wetzlar 41. 87. 
 
 | 
 
 i 
 Ki 
 7 
 
Veyersbach 131, 
 Vichelshof, the 43. 
 Vickrath 11, 
 Viebelskirchen 111. 
 Viedbach, the 66. 
 Viesbaden 149, 89, 
 Viese, the 260. 
 Viesenthal, the 260. 
 Yildbad 210, 
 
 ‘ildenburg 111. 
 Yildenstein 235, 237. 
 /illgartswiesen 194, 188. 
 Tindeck, ruins of, near 
 Baden 216. 
 
 ‘indeck, ruins of, near 
 ‘Schladern 40, 
 
 indeck, castle of, near 
 Weinheim 174, 
 
 inden 195, 
 
 indesheim 102. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Winkel 135. 89. 
 Winneburg, ruing of 125 
 Winningen 126, 
 Winterberg, the 84, 
 
 Winzingen, ruins of 192. 
 
 196, 224, 
 Wisper, the 103. 
 Wissen 40. 
 Witten 22, 
 Wittlich 133, 
 Wolf 122, 
 Wolfach 256, 
 Wolfsbrunnen, the 185. 
 
 126. 
 
 Wolfsburg, ruin of 196, 
 224, 
 
 Wolkenburg, the 53. 55, 
 Worms 198, 225, 
 Worringen 39. 
 
 Wupper, the 21, 24, 
 Wurmthal, the 11. 
 
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 Wyk by Duurstede 15. 
 
 .|Xanten 17, 
 
 Yburg, ruin of 215, 
 Yssel, the 14. 76, 
 Ysselmonde 14, 
 Zabern 229, 
 Zahlbach 140, 
 Zaihringen, ruin of 238, 
 243, 
 Zauberhéhle, the 108. 
 Zell on the Moselle 123. 
 Zell in the Wiesenthal 260, 
 Zeltingen 122. 
 Zicklenburg 56. 
 Zipfelhof 259, 
 Zorn, the 230. 
 Zweibriicken 197, 
 Zweibriiggen, castle of 11. 
 Zwiegabel 251. 
 Zwingenberg 172, 
 
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