UNIVfcKSIU Of ILLINOIS URBAN* Univ.of in. Library 5j a/ MAGIC RIVER ©ESCMUTESc 74 is-*- o. m. fringlc: NAMES AND LOCALITY OF THE ILLUSTRATIONS. First - Pringle Falls, thirty miles above, and south of Bend. Second —River just above Pringle Falls. Third--Paulena Falls, twenty miles south-east of Pringle Falls. Fourth—Benham Falls, eighteen miles north-east of Pringle Falls. Fifth—Black Butte, twenty-five miles north of Pringle Falls. Sixth—Odell Butte, a few miles west of Pringle Falls. Seventh—Lava Butte and Lava bed, fourteen miles north¬ east of Pringle Falls. UBHARY UNIVERSITY Of ILUNoh URBANA /MI )ES€HUTES, O, M. PRINGLE, Jn dreamland I pensively mused, wandering on thy magic shore Where the foot of civilized man had never never trod before, Tell me thy birth, the origin of thy titan river fountains Leaping, shimmering, laughing, rushing from many shattered rugged mountains, The echoing came back ask the cinerated mountains and hills The zephers that softly sough through these sylvan forests and gushing rills. Ask the primitive habitants whose footprints show dimly upon thy shore, Ask their unwritten legends and their unwritten lore, The ages that witnessed creation’s dawn and her labor’s mighty tread Whence all these vitrified plains, hills and mountains so vastly spread. J l f 1 turifecf ‘*t o ’ 1 vitr eou s conic-hill mountain titan fountain the .OTo'lod bo'll aov, ages silent now In no H lincertam language the echoes came clear and distinct ! > j 1 jii rt may know In ages long passed the fire gods reigned supreme, o’er this a/sea of^molten lava beat and surged from shore to shore on every hand. o I On earth such a Plutonic inferno shall never again bear sway. A Stygian night, a night of sulphureous clouds obscured the light of day When Electro's heated breath fanned anew the flames, anew the flames ignited, Then all life, all nature was dead and seemed forever blighted, To the east, the west, the north and south lay an incandescent sea weird and wild, The while the Gorgons savage visage frowned and Jupiter and Juno smiled. LIRRARY ' N'VRSITV OF ILLINOIS Then rang out the mighty strokes of Vulcan’s ponderous sledges, Pealing forth from the shattered cliffs and cinerated ledges That heaved the molten ocean into bleak ragged fields and mountain high, And belching thunders echoed back the thunders of Jove in the sky Far over this seething caldron for many a league and many a mile, Sun could ne’er pierce the pall of sulphureous murkey dark¬ ness the while. Placid Neptune reigned along Pacific’s tranquil but fruitful plain, Resolved evermore to drown this torrid sea with fructifying rain When thus roused by earth’s convulsed sulphur-fumed and heated air, To transform this torrid sea into a fertile land, fruitful and fair. Neptune then evoked Eoleous the soft propitious south winds to blow And quench this burning land and cool this heated incan¬ descent glow, Laden with benign vapors from old Pacific’s wide ocean realm, To flood these fire gods and the raging fiery carnival o’er- whelm. From ocean fountains deep over Cascadia’s lofty mountain peak, To extinguish fires, erode hills, rocks, and transform weird wilds so bleak, Thus the pouring floods of snow, hail and rain so copiously fell Transformed all mountains conic hill into verdant plain and fruitful dell. Then from many bleak cinerated volcanic mountain Burst tQ the light of day crystal river fountain, As from the depths of Pluto’s Hadean caverns dark and deep Clothed with livid green, forest dell, and meadows forever keep. E’er while Sylva and Pomona with germs of fruiting shrubs and forest trees, Upon mountains barren heights, conic hills, valleys and gentle leas, Ceres and Flora with bountiful supplies strewed with liberal hand Now sylvan bowers and forest grand and flowering meadows clothe the land. Now the willow, birch and laurel their lofty branches spread, The symmetric pine, fir, larch and hemlock lift aloft their stately head, The shepherd’s bleating flocks and lowing herds in peace and plenty nightly fold, Where once billowy seas of fire and Ocheran rivers for ages rolled. But now thy fructifying waters are strewn over the desert plain, The farm, the cottage home, the loaded orchard and fields of waving grain, The village school house, the urchins’ happy sports, laugh and yell, From the spires of the hamlet church is heard the Christian’s civilizing bell. Now farewell, but flow on mysterious, magic, mystic river, On forever through forest, dell, grassy meadows and sedges thy waters quiver, On through hills and mountains and rocky gorges thy waters foam, On and on through old Columbia’s tide to thy own ocean home. O. M. PRINGLE. EXPEDIENCE €DW AM EMIGRANT BOY IN 1846. It was on the 15th day of April, 1816, that a family of nine persons, consisting of father, mother, three sisters and four brothers, left Warren County,Missouri, equipped with two ox teams and provisioned for a six months jour¬ ney of over two thousand miles, across the almost un¬ known. savage wilderness of wild, savage beasts and men, of vast plains of sand and desert wastes and wild and rugged mountains to the then Territory of Oregon, upon the sunset shores of the Pacific Ocean. The per¬ sonal^ of the above family were as follows: Virgil K. and Pherna T. Pringle (father and mother), Virgilia E.. Clark S., Alero M., Sarelia L., and Emma P. Pringle, Charles P. Fulerton, and Octavius M. Pringle, the writer of this narrative. When arriving upon the frontiers of Missouri, we were accompained by our grandmother, Mrs. Tabitha Brown, who, after arriving in Oregon, became the principal founder of the Pacific University at Forest Grove, and several of our old neighbors, making sixteen wagons in the company, but later, while passing through the Terri¬ tory of Kansas, we were joined by enough more to swell the number to sixty-nine wagons manned by one hundred and fifty men organized for defense against the perfidious and treacherous savages as best we might. To the imagi¬ nation of the writer of this article (then a lad just passed 14 years of age, but at the time of this writing near four score years), to see this long concourse of wagons as the sun sank to the western horizon each day as they swung around into a circle forming a corral as a means of de¬ fense in which to gather and protect our stock, upon which our very existence depended, the night guards stationed at the opening of the corral, the grave and anxious expressions upon the countenance of parents and elders of the company, the free-go-easy sports and shouts of the youth around the camp fires, the love making of those a little older, that often resulted in nuptials later on and in laying the foundation of many a family in the new Oregon, and then in the morning to watch the unwinding corral slowly stretch out over the plain and anon wind in and out in its serpentine course over hills and moun¬ tains where the scene was ever changing and ever new, was and in still a vivid panorama that has never faded from my mind, although sixty-five years have since flown by. Little did any of us then think that we were going to a land abounding in inexhaustible resources, to plant and lay the foundation of an empire of progress and de¬ velopment, whose benign light was destined to radiate to the East, West, North and South and bless the worlf with a new vibrating pulsation of progress and brotherly fellowship it had never felt before, an empire that would not only spread its benign influence along the shore of America, and over its hills and mountains, and over the inhabitants of the older states of this union, but over the orient and the rest of the Occident as well. After many months of weary travel over scorching, sandy deserts, fertile plains and valleys, rough and rugged mountains, passing through many Indian tribes, some friendly others hostile, finally with teams worn out, with many of them perished and left by the wayside, with pro¬ visions so nearly exhausted that every one was on short rations, with many members of the company buried in unmarked graves by the wayside and every few days adding new graves to the number, with those who sur¬ vived hungry, weak, travel worn and discouraged, in this condition and late in the year with winter storms beating upon us, we reached the southern border of the Terri¬ tory of Oregon, a vast territory at that time extending from California on the south to Canada on the north, and from the Pacific Ocean on the west to the summit of the Rocky Mountains on the east. This vast territory is now divided into four states, namely, Washington, Idaho, Utah and Oregon, whose wealth of resources runs up into billions of dollars in grazing, agriculture, timber and mines of a great variety of minerals and metals, including vast deposits of coal, all of which is now being developed, but to us poor immigrants it was all worth¬ less. Pood and shelter was all that had any value to us. Many of our wagons were left to rot in the mountains, as the teams that remained were not sufficient to move the empty wagons, yet we were nearly three hundred miles away from succor or help and the streams were beginning to swell from the cold winter rains. The extremity had now come with famine and starvation staring us in the face. After holding a family consultation it was decided that the writer of this narrative, Octavius M., should take the only animal of the horse kind (a mare) and go with a couple of young men who were going over the only mountain range that intervened between us and the little- settlement in the Willamette Valley, which was three hun¬ dred miles away, in the vicinity of the old Methodist Mission then known as Salem, now the capital of the State of Oregon. I was to accompany them only as far as a depot where I could get provisions which had been sent out by this settlement spoken of above for the relief of immigrants that had such prospect of perishing. This depot was about one hundred and twenty-five miles away, in the upper stretches of the Willamette Valley. It took us three days to reach the depot. Here I expected to meet some parties that would be going south to assist friends in need of help, but in this I was destined to be disap¬ pointed and camped one night at this depot. You may well imagine the disappointment and dreadful fear that came over this boy of 14 years when it was known that his return trip must be made alone, and that through a wild country uninhabited save by wild beasts and pos¬ sibly wild Indians. But with undaunted courage and many misgivings he resolved to show no cowardice and thinking of parents, brothers and sisters who might be suffering for food resolved to make the attempt. The next morning (one long to be remembered by that boy) after lashing upon the poor mare as much dried peas and wheat graham flour as was thought best she could carry in her emaciated condition, without my weight being added, I started on the return trip. It was one of those dark, gloomy, foggy days with a constant driz¬ zling rain, and under the tall overshadowing forests, dripping with water, it was little better than night. After several miles travel I came to the mountain trail, and had not gone far up the mountain when a very large bear track came into the trail just ahead of me. It looked very fresh, the muddy water was still filtering into the tracks in places. I expected at every turn in the trail to come upon the monster that made them, but after following them miles, as it seemed to me, to my great relief it turned off of the trail. But, directly, I heard a snort peculiar to the bear and a crashing among the sallal brush that thrilled me with fear, nearly lifting the hair off of my head, but presently it was manifest that he was more afraid of my outfit than I had been of him, and plodding along I met with no adventure the rest of the day. But, lacka-day! as the sun began to sink into the west, and as I came to a promontory that overlooked my prospective camping place where I expected to meet some of the advanced immigrants with whom I could camp, you can again imagine my sad and fearful loneliness and the dread of spending- the night alone in such a wilderness. The argument went on in my mind whether to camp or struggle on all night, or until I met the company I was looking for. But as myself and horse were both tired and hungry, though I felt but little of the pangs of the latter and but meager means at my command to gratify it, if ever so keen, but for the poor mare food was in superabund¬ ance, as the grass was like a meadow waving in the soft south wind and nearly as green as the midsummer, and the thought of losing the trail during the night determined me to camp. I selected a large fir tree, that stood upon the outskirts of a grove of woods, with drooping boughs, under whose roof-like shelter it looked as though it had not rained for half a century, but I was not the first one that it had sheltered from the storms, as there were the relics of an Indian camp still remaining, and selecting the best spot of grass and picketing out the mare I ar¬ ranged my camp as best I could. As the darkness slowly crept over the valleys and mountains the rain ceased and the dark, gloomy clouds broke up into rifts and in orderly procession were drifting majectically to the north before a soft south wind, while the nearly full moon was playing hide and seek with the rifted clouds, amidst the almost constant clang and squawk of the water fowl upon their annual migrations south, and, in the dark woods close by, the , hoo-ou-hoo-hoo-ho-o-o-hoo-o-osh of the big owl chorused by the chilling and lonesome producing K-a-z-e az-zz-z-e-a-rr-r of the little schreech owl, accompained by the long, drawn out lonesome lament of the ever present coyote. This was the serenade that accompanied my preparations for supper, which consisted of a half pint of graham flour moistened in a tin cup (the only vessel of any kind I had). When this was eaten I then pre¬ pared my bed by spreading a quilt over some hazel rods already in position under the fir trees (left by some Indian camper) and then wrapped the blanket around me as best I could to go to the sleep of forgetfulness if possible, but this was not possible. Before retiring I examined some ash trees, that stood within fifty paces of my bed, that I could easily climb into if I were disturbed by some wild beast of prey, if I had a chance to reach it before being caught. Being weary and boy-like I would ever and anon drop into a sleep only to be startled by my own fears or the bark of the coyote and the squak of the birds. About mid¬ night I was awakened by the crackling of the brush close by. In an instant I was on my feet, and hearing the heavy breathing of some large animal I gathered up my belongings and threw the sack of precious peas and graham flour over a low limb, then climbing higher up, to a place where I could sit with some ease, I wrapped the two pieces of bedding about me and literally went to roost for the rest of the night. Thus the night wore away while the serenade around me went on. Imagine my chargin and disgust next morning when I discovered the cause of my fright, and flight into the tree, was an old emacitated immigrant cow left, because she could go no further, to either winter it through or perish (I learned in the spring that she was found all right and in good condition). After breakfast, which consisted of graham flour and cold water, I started on the trail and resolved not to spend another night like the one just passed. I reflected and felt it would be better to camp with hostile Indians and be butchered outright than to be tortured with such fear as I had endured, and I resolved to keep the trail all the next night if I did not find some one to camp with, either civilized or uncivilized. Oh! if I could only meet those dear ones once more before nightfall. As I was passing through the Umpqua Valley, wild geese and deer were all about me. They were very tame. The deer would gather in clumps among the oaks on the hills and gaze down upon me and then scurry away. In the afternoon I discovered an Indian wickeyup, con¬ structed partially of canvas and partly of fir boughs, hard by the trail that I must pass. I hesitated but a moment as I knew full well I could not hide from them if they wished to do me evil, so putting on a bold front I went up to their camp and found it occupied only by squaws and children. The men were out hunting deer. These women used a few English words and I soon learned that they came from Lees Mission at Salem and they had some of the utensils of civiligation, all of which relieved my fears wonderfully. They took care of my things and my¬ self as though I had been a brother, and there was noth¬ ing to fear from them if the men were as friendly as the women and children. When the men came in they re¬ ported the killing of fifteen deer that day. During the night the squaws prepared a saddle of vension. The major part of the meat had been cut off for drying, but the remainder was kept before the fire roasting and dry¬ ing, and in the morning they gave this to me to lunch upon as I tramped along the trail. When I first came to the camp they set out a pot of boiled vension ribs and back bone without salt or any seasoning whatever, but my appetite did not need any. When the men came I found I was among friends and that I had nothing to fear from these people. They treated me as royally as though I had been a prince, or nearer of kin than grandpa Adam would make us. Being assigned a corner in the tepee I rolled up and slept the sleep of peace and quiet dreams. In the morning my dark hosts were as attentive as the evening before, having horse and pack ready with that hunk of roast vension to lunch upon by the way and also a whole carcass of a deer for my people, for which I was to pay them in powder, lead and caps. When we came thus far thus equipped I struck the lonely trail not knowing when, but hoping to meet the’loved ones before nightfall. Sometime near noon as I was trudging along, munch¬ ing roast vension and wondering with anxious fear if the boy were doomed to experience another night alone in this wilderness, I presently rounded a sharp point that jutted out into the valley and I heard a welcome, familiar voice just around this point that sounded more precious than that of an angel, it was that of my brother Clary as he exclaimed, Ge up Buck! addressed to an always delin¬ quent ox. A few rods further and two wagons, that had been our home for seven months, and the loved ones were in sight moving slowly along towards me. Oh! the emo¬ tions that swelled and heaved in the boy's bosom with the deepest emotions of thankfulness to God, our Father in heaven, whom this boy had learned to love and trust some years ago, and in those hours of darkness and fear had been his only solace and trust to protect him from the savages surrounding him. Boy as he was, no one can realize the consolation it was to feel that God could protect his children, and when he saw father, mother, brothers and sisters all intact, and was embraced in the arms of a loving mother and smothered with sobs and kisses of gratitude and thankfulness for the return of her boy, his mother declared she would never again let one of her children go alone into such a wilderness, saying that the vision of her boy being torn by wild beasts or tortured by savages would startle her in her sleep and distort her dreams, they having heard nothing of me nor I of them for six days, averring that she would rather we had all perished together than endure the agonies of the last six days. But happily we were all to¬ gether once more with no fear of savages, as most of the Indians were gone and the few that were in these valleys were friendly, or on their way to the happy hunting grounds beyond. After these greetings and joys had sufficiently sub¬ sided, the first good camping place was the scene of a feast of boiled peas, roast vension and graham bread, which all made a bountiful feast. From this on our pro- gress was slow, only a few miles each day. One day brought us to the Indian camp where I had lodged two nights before, and owing to the weakened condition of the teams and the wet and soft state of the ground, we determined to remain here three days to recruit, and to bury one of our fellow travelers, a young lady of about 18 years of age, and also to repair shoes and make new ones for those that had none to repair. Father and myself were practical shoemakers, having run a shoe shop while in Missouri, and had with us a small supply of both upper and sole leather for sqch emergencies, also a kit of cobblers’ tools. While here we made one pair of shoes for an Indian and in exchange received the carcass of three fine, large deer. A week’s travel brought us over the Calapooia Moun¬ tains into the Willamette Valley to a point just above where the City of Eugene now stands. Here the teams utterly gave out and could pull the wagons no further and two of the oxen died under the cold rains and wet snowfall.. Just what to do in this extremity was the perplexing question, but two more families joined us here in much the same predictment as ourselves, one was the Lebo the other the Mansfield family, the father of the latter being an expert boatman. As our teams could carry us no further, he proposed to utilize the Willamette River and build a boat large enough to carry the most of us and our goods down to the settlements, as it was reported that there were no falls to intervene. This was finally decided upon as the only alternative. Then with dull and insufficient tools we attacked a very large fir tree standing near the river. After many days’ labor it was finally launched a few days before Christmas, The two families of Messrs. Lebo and Mansfield, consisting of nine persons and all their effects, went aboard this crude craft to navigate a strange river that no white man had ever explored, but the voyage proved suc¬ cessful and they finally landed safely at the old Method¬ ist Mission ten miles below Salem on the east bank of the Willamette River. This boat or canoe was used for a ferry boat at this place for several years after. About the time these people had the boat ready to sail, an uncle of ours came from Forest Grove to our relief with some provisions, and by hiring some half breed French that happened to come along with a number of pack horses, father’s family was enabled to make the rest of the trip by land down the west side of the Willamette River through what is now Lane, Benton and Polk Counties. Though less than seventy-five miles, we had no small task as we had to cross the Long Tom, Mary’s,Luckiamute and Rickreall Rivers without any bridge or ferry, and every small, insignificient branch, creek and swell was a swimming river, but, nevertheless, upon Christmas Day we landed at Salem, bare foot, weary and worn out. Before leaving the boat building camp, all the immi¬ grants who had got this far realized the impossibility of taking their stock any further, so they joined together and arranged for three men to remain and look after the stock until spring. These men took possession of an un¬ finished cabin and had to depend upon their rifles for pro¬ tection and deer for food. The cabin was built by Mr. Eugene Skinner, the founder of Eugene City. Notwithstanding all the vicissitudes of such a journey and the trying ordeals that laid low so many of our travel¬ ing companions in unmarked graves by the way, yet our family of pine still remained nine. It seemed as if the protection of God, the Heavenly Father, was over us, as neither sickness nor accidents, to speak of, happened to us in all these months. We had just got comfortably housed when it began to turn cold and snowed for three weeks, and we would surely have perished in such weather had we not reached shelter. When we reached the summit of the Polk County hills just west of Salem, we looked down upon Salem, prairies bordered with grand forests, and settler’s cabins and a few buildings clustered around that old Mission called the Oregon Institute, now the Willamette University, and it looked as if a scrap of civilization had made a tremen¬ dous leap of three thousand miles and dropped down in this beautiful valley. To this hungry, foot-sore and weary boy it looked like a paradise and the end of a long and weary pilgrimage.