OYEKI.AND JOURNEY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 -<>-0>*<00- 
 
 NOTES OF THE JOURNEY 
 
 OF 
 
 SIR GEORGE F. BOWEN, G.C.M.G., 
 
 IN APRIL, 1872, 
 
 FROM 
 
 WELLINGTON TO AUCKLAND, 
 
 ACROSS THE CENTRE OF THE 
 
 NORTH ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 WITH AN APPENDIX, 
 
 Conta'tning Letters from Maori Chiefs to the Agent-General. 
 
 »o>«<o<^ 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 G. STREET, 3 0, CORN HILL 
 
 1872.
 
 
 ^ UIUC 
 
 #
 
 y E R L A X D J O V 11 N E Y 
 
 01" THE 
 
 GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 GOVERNOR SIR GEORGE BOWEN liad lor 
 some time determined to travel overland across 
 the central and recently hostile districts of New 
 Zealand, for all those best qualified to judge were of 
 opinion that a visit from the representative of the 
 Queen to the Maori clans of the interior Mould be 
 productive of great public advantage to the colony. 
 In the first j^lace it would powerfully help to confirm 
 in their loyalty the well-afFected natives, and also to 
 bring back to their allegiance those recently in arms 
 against the Queen ; in the second place, the fact of the 
 Governor having himself traversed in safety and con- 
 fidence districts lately inaccessible to Europeans would 
 be considered in England a proof of the restored tran- 
 quillity of the country, and would thus exercise a 
 favourable influence in promoting immigration to New 
 Zealand. 
 
 The overland route between Wellington and Auck- 
 land is by Napier (tlie chief town of the province of 
 Uawkc's Bay) and by tlie great inland lake of Taupo. 
 
 B 2
 
 The country between Wellington and Napier has now 
 for several years been occupied by pastoral and agri- 
 cultural settlers ; and the few Maoris resident among 
 them, belonging chiefly to the clans of the Ngatiawa 
 and Ngatikahungunu, are well affected to the Govern- 
 ment, and live on the most friendly terms with their 
 Mhite neighbours. 
 
 A good carriage road has already been completed 
 northwards from Wellington to Masterton, a distance 
 of some 70 miles, and from Napier southwards to Pora- 
 ngahau, about 80 miles, and coaches carrying mails and 
 passengers run regularly to and from those places. 
 The gap between Masterton and Porangahau does not 
 exceed 90 miles, and will be filled up ere long, as 
 roads are being pushed on steadily in all the settled 
 districts in accordance with a well- considered plan. 
 
 As the Governor had already seen much of the 
 country between Wellington and Napier, and as there 
 was no public object to be gained by travelling over- 
 land in this part of his journey, he proceeded by sea 
 in the Government steamer " Luna," leaving Welling- 
 ton on the 2nd April, and, after a stormy passage, 
 reaching Napier on the evening of the 3rd. 
 
 His Excellency remained here during the 4th and 
 5th, visiting the public institutions in the to^\^l and the 
 neighbouring " kaingas," or villages, of Pakowhai and 
 Waiohiki. The large sums paid to the natives as rents 
 by the pastoral settlers (amounting lately to £26,000 
 a year), as well as the produce of land sales (all 
 divided among about 200 Maori families) have enabled 
 the native chiefs near Napier to build good houses in
 
 the English style, and to live in English comfort. 
 They have good carriages, horses, cattle, and well- 
 cultivated farms. One very interesting fact is the 
 establishment by the natives at Pakowhai of a school 
 where the children are now going through all the usual 
 course of an English education, and show remarkable 
 proficiency. 
 
 While on the subject of native schools it may be 
 observed that this branch of civilisation lias been 
 warmly taken up by the Colonial Government ; an 
 annual subsidy extending over a course of years has 
 been voted by Parliament, and devoted strictly to the 
 object it was intended to attain ; and it is a pleasing 
 fact that a wide-spread disposition exists among the 
 natives to impart to their children the benefits of edu- 
 cation. It has been found by experience that the 
 readiest method of instilling European habits into the 
 natives is by teaching them the English language, and 
 enlarging their understandings by acquainting them 
 with the nature and geography of other countries in 
 addition to the usual routine of daily school life. In 
 many cases the result has exceeded all anticipation, 
 the children being excessively quick at picking up the 
 language of the pakcha, and very apt at figures and 
 penmanship. 
 
 Xapier until lately was the outpost of colonisation 
 towards the interior. In 18G6 a sharply contested 
 battle was fought by the colonial forces with tlic 
 insurgents at Omaranui, eight miles from the town ; 
 and it is within only the last two years that the neigh- 
 bourhood has been safe from hostile incursions. The
 
 6 
 
 Colonial Government are rapidly pushing on a road 
 from Xapier to Taupo, the geographical and strategical 
 centre of the island. This road is being made chiefly 
 by native labour, and is protected by five small detach- 
 ments of the colonial forces, placed in stockaded posts, 
 connected together by the electric telegraph, at Te 
 Haroto, Tarawera, Runanga, Opepe, and Tapuaeharuru 
 (at the northern end of Lake Taupo). • 
 
 On April 6th the Governor left Xapier for Taupo, 
 accompanied by one A.D.C ; by Mr. Locke, the Civil 
 Commissioner of the district, and by the Master of 
 Blantyre, who has been for some time travelling in the 
 Australasian colonies. The coach-road has already 
 Ijeen finished to the Mohaka river, about 30 miles 
 from Napier, and, now that permanent tranquillity has 
 been established, the country through which it passes 
 will soon be occupied by settlers. The Governor and 
 his party slept this night at the post at Te Haroto, 
 occupied by the Colonial forces, 35 miles from Napier. 
 It occupies a strong position, 2,200 feet above the sea, 
 on a summit of a high hill commanding a magnificent 
 view of the sea and of the coast, as well as of the wild 
 mountains and forests of the Urewera country to the 
 eastward. 
 
 On the 7th the Governor started on horseback at 
 7 a.m., and after a ride of 42 miles reached Opepe 
 at 7 p.m., another post of the colonial forces, where he 
 again slept. The party had been joined at Te Haroto 
 by Major Scannell, commanding the district, and had 
 stopped for breakfast and lunch respectively at the 
 ])02ts of Tarawera and Runanga. The carriage road
 
 has not yet been completed throughout the dislancp 
 travelled this day, but there is already a good bridle 
 track. Much of the land is rich, and the mountain and 
 forest scenery is very beautiful, reminding the European 
 traveller of the Italian slopes of the Alps. Contracts 
 for the completion of the road have been taken by the 
 Maoris of Taupo, and it ^vill be finished in the course 
 of the present year, when a coach will run regularly 
 from Napier to the Lake, carrying mails and passen- 
 gers to the heart of the island. A tri- weekly coach 
 service already exists from Auckland to Cambridge, in 
 the Waikato, a distance of about 120 miles ; and the 
 break between Cambridge and Taupo is only some 70 
 miles. Of this gap a considerable portion has alread} 
 been filled up by native labour, and the carriage road 
 throughout will probably be completed in the course 
 of a twelvemonth ; when coaches will be able to travel 
 from Napier (and soon from Wellington also) to 
 Auckland in about four days, stopping each night at 
 the inns already finished, or in process of erection. 
 A statement asserting the possibility of such a fact 
 would have appeared incredible three years ago, when 
 the natives of the central districts were for the most 
 part in active or sullen hostility. On the 8th the 
 Governor left Opepe, at a distance from which of some 
 10 miles, an hour's ride along a good road, lies the great 
 lake of Taupo, 1,250 feet above the sea, and resem- 
 bling in its extent (about 200 square miles of water) 
 and in scenery, the Lake of Geneva. On liis arrival 
 at Tapuaeharuru, the native settlement at the north 
 end of the lake, and near the point where the river
 
 8 
 
 Waikato issues from it, the Governor was enthu- 
 siastically received by the well-known chief Poihipi 
 Tukairangi, one of the signers of the Treaty of Waitangi, 
 and by his people, with whom was held a korero, or 
 conference. The following is a brief summary of the 
 speeches delivered: — 
 
 Poihipi Tukairangi said: Welcome, O Governor, 
 to Taupo ! We have been long desiring to see you. 
 For many years past we have been in great trouble. 
 We were nearly destroyed ; still a few of us have 
 always remained firm to the Queen, and like the 
 Horomatangi (sea god) that dwelt of yore in Lake 
 Taupo, and in former days swallowed the evil monsters 
 of the deep, we have now destroyed our enemies ; but 
 our joy at welcoming you to Taupo recompenses us for 
 the past troubles. Taupo is yours, the lake, and all 
 the lands around, and all the people. Take them all. 
 You come as the sign of peace. Welcome ! for you 
 are our father. We desire to commemorate your 
 arrival amongst us by naming some place after you. 
 We should like that the town to be founded here 
 should be called after you. We feel now as if new 
 life were given us, when we see the Governor in our 
 midst. We know that we are not forgotten. The 
 people now here represent the feeling of the whole 
 tribe. Welcome ! Welcome ! (Then followed a song 
 of welcome, in the chorus of which all joined). 
 
 Reweti Te Kume said: Welcome, Governor, 
 to Taupo ! Come and instruct us in all the laws, 
 thoughts, and works of the Europeans. Taupo is 
 yours, the lake, the people, and the land : yours to
 
 carry out the works of the Europeans— to make roads 
 <ind other works, and to have schools to teach Gur 
 ■children English. There have been Hauhaus amongst 
 us, but all are yours now. Whatever your plans may 
 be respecting this country, we are waiting to carry 
 them out. (Another song of welcome followed.) 
 
 Paora Rauhihi said : Welcome, O Governor, to 
 Taupo ! We have long been wishing to see you. We 
 have often heard of you by name, but we thought we 
 should never see your face here. Welcome to Taupo. 
 (Another song of welcome). I never saw a Governor 
 before. We are but a remnant of what we once were. 
 Welcome. 
 
 His Excellency then spoke nearly as follows : O 
 my friends, chiefs and people of Ngatituwharetoa, 
 salutations to you all. You in particular, O Poihipi 
 Tukairangi, I salute, for you have ever been loyal to 
 the Queen and a firm friend to the English, nor is this 
 the first time that you have welcomed me. When I 
 first arrived in New Zealand, four years ago, you 
 wrote me a letter of welcome. That letter, together 
 with other letters from loyal Maori chiefs, was sent to 
 the Queen's Ministers in England, and it was after- 
 wards printed with other documents respecting this 
 country, for the information of the great parliament of 
 the Empire at London ; so the name of Poihipi 
 Tukairangi is now spread far and wide. The English 
 naval officer. Lieutenant Meade, who came to Taupo 
 in 1H()5, and was so hospitably entertained by you here, 
 has also written a book in which your loyalty, and the 
 beauty of your lakes and mountains are celebrated.
 
 10 
 
 In the wars and troubles of the last few years, Poihipi 
 has stood firm to the Queen, even as the rocky isle of 
 Motu Taiko, now before us, stands firm as ever amid 
 the winds and waves of the great lake. When evil 
 times came on, and the sky was dark and lowering, 
 the friends of law and order took refuge with him, 
 even as canoes caught by a storm take refuge under 
 the lee of Motu Taiko. Now the storm is passing 
 away ; the sun shines forth again ; and the tribes 
 lately disaffected are returning to their allegiance, and 
 are following his good example. In a word, the 
 influence of Poihipi (as he himself said just now) has 
 driven away the demons of war and murder which 
 were devastating this fair land, even as the sea-god 
 Horomatangi, celebrated in the old Maori legends,, 
 destroyed the taniwhas (sea monsters) which once 
 infested the shores of the lake of Taupo. And now,, 
 my friends, I rejoice that you are industrious in peace 
 as you have been brave in war. You were the first to- 
 join the Government in making the roads through 
 your district, those roads which confer such great 
 benefits on all alike — on the Maoris and on the 
 pakehas. I trust you will also join the Government 
 in founding schools, as your countrymen have already 
 done at Pakowhai, Maketu, and elsewhere. Thus 
 your children will grow up in good nurture, well- 
 educated, and able to cultivate the arts of peace, and 
 live in friendship and harmony with the English.. 
 Then the two nations, the white skin and the brown, 
 which inhabit this island, will grow up into one people, 
 with common laws and institutions. O, my friends, I
 
 u 
 
 pray that God, the Giver of all good, may pour his 
 choicest gifts upon you all. (The Governor's speech 
 was greeted with loud cheers by the natives.) 
 
 The name Tapuaeharuru signifies '' resounding 
 footsteps," and has reference to the hollow sound 
 of the earth from the volcanic action which extends 
 throughout the zone, reaching from the great burning 
 mountain of Tongariro south of Taupo to Whakari, 
 or White Island, also an active volcano, in the Bay of 
 Plenty, a distance of 120 miles. Hot springs and 
 geysers abound throughout this region, one of the 
 most interesting and wonderful in the whole world- 
 Good descriptions of it will be found in Hochstetter's 
 '• New Zealand," and in " A Ride through New 
 Zealand," by Lieutenant the Hon. H. Meade, R.N. 
 Hitherto, these grand natural phenomena have re- 
 mained almost unknown ; but now that tranquillity has 
 been established, and that access to them will soon be 
 rendered safe and easy by the completion of the roads, 
 good inns will d(mbtless be erected, and New Zealand 
 will become for the Australasian group of colonies 
 what Switzerland and the German Baths are for 
 Europe. The valuable medicinal qualities of these 
 hot lakes and springs are well-known to the Maoris, 
 who resort to them from all parts of the island for the 
 cure of various diseases. 
 
 At the " koreros " which the Governor held with 
 the natives in the interior, the chief requests were : 
 first, for Queen's flags, i.e., union jacks, to be hoisted 
 at their pas, instead of the old Hauhau or rebel flags, 
 wliich have been everywhere destroyed by themselves ;.
 
 12 
 
 secondl)', that the Colonial Government should employ 
 them in making roads through their own territories. 
 It may here be mentioned that hundreds of Maoris 
 lately in rebellion are now so employed. In short, the 
 ])olicy pursued for the pacification of the Highlands of 
 New Zealand is (as Sir G. Bowen has often pointed 
 out in his published despatches), the same with that 
 adopted in the last century for the pacification of 
 the Highlands of Scotland. The true weapons of 
 conquest have been in both cases the spade and the 
 pickaxe. The third request of the natives everywhere 
 was that the Government should assist them in 
 founding and endowing schools, where their children 
 might learn the language and arts of the English. As 
 has been above observed, liberal provision has been 
 made by the Colonial Parliament for this vital object. 
 
 The Taupo natives preferred an especial request to 
 the Governor that a European town should be founded 
 on the shores of the Great Lake, and named "Bowen," 
 and that a steamer should be placed on the lake. The 
 Government will carry out all the above-mentioned 
 requests, which are themselves proofs of the great 
 change which has lately taken place in the sentiments 
 of the Maoris. 
 
 On the 9th the Governor started in a whale-boat, 
 manned by men of the Armed Constabulary, for 
 Tokano, the chief native settlement at the south end 
 of the lake. The distance by water is about 26 miles, 
 and by land, along the Eastern shore, about 36 miles. 
 The morning was clear and bright, and the great 
 volcano of Tongariro (6,200 feet high) with smoke and
 
 18 
 
 steam ascending from its crater, and the lofty ridge of 
 lluapeliu (9,200 feet above the sea), covered with per- 
 petual snow, presented glorious features in the pano- 
 rama of the mountains surrounding the lake. About 
 noon a strong contrary gale set in, so the Governor 
 landed at Motutere, on the eastern shore, whither 
 horses had been sent in anticipation of one of these 
 sudden storms, and rode the rest of the way to Tokano, 
 a distance of about 1 6 miles ; the boat did not reach 
 that jilace till the following morning. The Governor 
 was again received with great respect and regard by 
 Hare Tauteka, Herekiekie, and the other chiefs and 
 people of the clan of the Xgatituwharetoas, to whom 
 belong Taupo audits neighbourhood. The party were 
 lodged in Maori whares, and food was liberally pro- 
 vided in the absence of the supplies shipped on board 
 the whaleboat. 
 
 Subjoined is the substance of the speeches at the 
 korero : — 
 
 Hare Tauteka : Welcome, Governor, to Taupo I 
 It is with great joy we welcome you. We look ujion 
 you as our father, the father of the Maori people. Our 
 number is now but few, but we welcome you with 
 none the less sincerity. You have often shown your 
 love to us during the past few years. We have often 
 been told that the Governor would always be our friend, 
 and we have found it so with you. We arc rejoiced 
 to welcome you after the troubles we have gone 
 through, and we look to you to keep us from further 
 trouble. (A song of welcome followed.) It gives us 
 much pleasure, it rejoices us to have thi« opportunity
 
 14 
 
 of welcoming you here, so that we may speak to you 
 as a father who takes care of us and gives us counsel 
 and instruction. Taupo is yours ; Tongariro is yours ; 
 they are in your hands. The Xgatituwharetoa, living 
 on the west shore of the lake, have come in to you. 
 They will require constant attention ; it is only thus 
 you will keep those people right. Do not neglect 
 them. Do not neglect Taupo. Raise us up. The 
 country is yours ; open it up. Governor Grey told us 
 to take care that Taupo was properly managed. He 
 said, " Keep Taupo together." We are now waiting 
 to hear what this Governor will say. 
 
 KiNGi Herektekie : Welcome, O Governor, to 
 Taupo. Be steadfast to lead us right. Matuahu has 
 not long surrendered to you. We require constant 
 guidance, for we have but just commenced to be 
 Avholly in the hands of the Government. Be careful 
 about buying land at Taupo, so that all may hear 
 whose land is bought, so that all may get their fair 
 share of the price given. Welcome, O Governor. 
 
 TopiA TmoA : Welcome, O Governor. I belong 
 to Taupo as well as to Whanganui. Men and land 
 have been the cause of my troubles — Tawhiao and the 
 boundaries of our land. I was a stray sheep that 
 Avent astray, and more joy was shown at my return 
 than for the ninety-and-nine that had remained in the 
 fold. I look upon Taupo with a jealous eye; I 
 observe all that has been done up to the present time, 
 and it is all good. All that has been done here has 
 tended to raise the people ; all has been done for the 
 good of the people.
 
 15 
 
 AVaaka Tamaira : Welcome, O Governor, to 
 Taupo. Come and visit Hare Tauteka and Tc 
 Heuheu. Welcome. Taupo and Tongariro are yours. 
 Welcome, O friend of the people and of the country ; 
 the friend of the people of Taupo. 
 
 H ATARAX A TE Whetu : Wclcome, O Governor, 
 to Taupo and Tongariro. You have come a long and 
 toilsome journey to visit us. Welcome to the sea of 
 Taupo. Go and visit your home and other places, but 
 hasten back and visit us again at Taupo 
 
 Aperahama te Whetu : Welcome, O my father. 
 We have only heard of you before ; now we see you 
 with our eyes. Look around at the land and at the 
 lake ; they are yours. Open up the country ; assist 
 us to make roads ; look around and see if you can 
 improve our condition : see what you can do to open 
 up the country. We look to you to give us proper 
 counsel. 
 
 Kerei te Takourii : Welcome, O Governor. 
 You will here see the result of M-hat has been done of 
 late. Matuahu and the others are now with us. 
 Matuahu would have been here if we had known the 
 exact day you were coming. We all see the benefit 
 of this way of treating the people. You have allowed 
 all the people of the west shore of the lake to come 
 in. They are now firmly yours. We liope your 
 thoughts are still for the same way of acting ; if so, 
 all are yours. We thank you for sending assistance 
 to us when troubles came over Taupo ; we will not 
 forget your sending help when we needed it. We are 
 all now true to the Government.
 
 16 
 
 His ExcKL[,i:xcY Sir G. Bowen then addressed the 
 meeting mainly as follows : O, my friends, Hare 
 Tauteka, Herekiekie, and all of you who have re- 
 mained staunch during the late troubles, salutations to 
 you all I I know that you have gone through great 
 trials, and have shown all the gallantry of your 
 ancestors in war. I, as the Governor and representa- 
 tive of the Queen, thank you, and have now come to 
 visit you at your own homes. The desire of the 
 Queen is that her Maori and pakeha children should 
 grow together into one people. The Queen also is 
 glad that the Maoris who were lately opposed to each 
 other are now friends, and that all are living in peace 
 and harmony with the Government and the colonists. 
 I rejoice also to salute Topia Turoa, the stray sheep 
 who has returned to the fold, and who lately fought so 
 bravely for the Queen. I rejoice that the Ngatitu- 
 wharetoa tribe is now again united, through Te 
 Heuheu, Matuahu, and others having submitted to the 
 Government. Thus all the Maoris who dwell round 
 the great lake of Taupo now understand the blessings 
 of peace, law, and order. You are already beginning 
 to reap the advantages of peace by selling the produce 
 of your labour, and thus procuring the clothes and the 
 other comforts of the Europeans. To carry these 
 benefits still further it will be well to make roads, like 
 your countrymen elsewhere, and as you propose to do 
 yourselves. The Government will assist you with 
 money and tools ; but, mark well my words, the roads 
 are a benefit to the Maori as well as tc the pakeha, 
 and the Government will not press the making of roads
 
 17 
 
 through the native districts if the inhabitants of those 
 districts object. The laws protect the land and other 
 rights of the Maori and of the pakehas alike. No 
 man need lease or sell his land unless he ^vishes it 
 himself; the ownership (mana) of the land remains* 
 as it has always remained, with the Maoris themselves. 
 And now, my friends, I thank you for the hearty 
 welcome which you have given me, and for your loyal 
 speeches. Hare Tauteka has said that Governor Grey 
 told him '' to keep Taupo together." This is correct. 
 I say to you the same. Keep Taupo and the Ngatitu- 
 wharetoa in peace and harmony with the Government 
 and with the other Maori tribes. What Te Herekiekie 
 said on this point was very good. Before selling any 
 land, let the titles be well ascertained, so that no 
 disputes may arise afterwards. Do as the pakehas 
 do. When disputes arise among you about land or 
 any other matter, resort to the Courts, and not to 
 fighting. There was a time, while your ancestors 
 were living at Hawaiki, when the ancestors of the 
 English lived much as the Maoris now live ; but wise 
 and able men arose, and taught their countrymen the 
 arts of peace, to make roads and railways, to build 
 ships and to found schools. You can learn all these arts 
 from the English among you. I recommend you, 
 therefore, to co-operate with the Government in found- 
 ing schools for your children so that they may be 
 taught the language and the learning of English. In 
 this, as in all other matters, you can always apply with 
 confidence for the aid of the Government. And now, 
 my friends, farewell, and may all happiness attend 
 
 c
 
 i; 
 
 you. Be sober and industrious, and all will be well 
 with you. 
 
 After bathing in one of the hot-springs which 
 abound in and near Tokano, and in which the cooking 
 of the people is carried on, the party started on the 
 10th for Rotoaira, the beautiful lake at the foot of 
 Tongariro, about ten miles south of Taupo. Nothing 
 can be more romantic than the scenery of this part of 
 the island. From under Ruapehu and Tongariro 
 stretch away, east, west and south, rich and well- watered 
 valleys Ipng between mountain ridges, covered with 
 the luxuriant and semi-tropical foliage of the New 
 Zealand forests. There is no sign of human habita- 
 tion in this magnificent country, but the native chiefs 
 are already in treaty to lease large portions of it to 
 some of the great run-holders of the South Island ; 
 and, before many years have elapsed, it will probably 
 be covered, like the plains of Australia, with vast 
 herds of cattle and flocks of sheep. In 1869 and 
 1870 there was much fighting near Tokano and 
 Rotoaira between the colonial forces and the loyal 
 clans on one side, and, on the other, the rebels under 
 Te Kooti. In the afternoon the Governor rode back 
 to Tokano, where he was again the guest of the 
 Maori chiefs, with whom he had another korero. 
 
 On the 11th the Governor started at 9 a.m. by the 
 boat on his return to the north end of the Lake. 
 A small river leads from the Lake to Tokano through 
 the alluvial plain surrounding the village, on which 
 the natives grow a large quantity of wheat, maize, 
 potatoes. &c. This creek must not be confounded
 
 19 
 
 with the Waikato river, which, rising near the foot of 
 Ruapehu, not far from, the sources of the Whanganui 
 river (which flows to the south), enters the Taupo 
 Lake at its southern extremity and issues from it again 
 at Tapuaeharuru on the northern shore : from this, 
 after a course of nearly two hundred miles, it falls into 
 the sea on the western coast of the North Island. 
 After entering the Lake from the Tokano creek, the 
 Governor passed Te Rapa, the kainga of Te Ileuheu, 
 whose father, a great chief of the olden time, was, with 
 sixty of his clansmen, overwhelmed in 1847 by an 
 avalanche of boiling mud from the hot springs on the 
 mountain above. His son, the present chief, joined the 
 rebellion in 1869, but has now returned to his 
 allegiance. A little further to the west is the mission- 
 station of Pukawa, formerly the residence of the Rev. 
 T. S. Grace, who was obliged to fly during the 
 rebellion. The wind being contrary, the Governor 
 again landed near Motutere, and rode thence in three 
 hours to Tapuaeharuru, where there is already a small 
 inn near the post of the colonial forces, and the j>a of 
 the loyal chief Poihipi, 
 
 On the morning of the 12th the Governor held 
 another korero with the natives, of which the following 
 is a summary : — 
 
 Poihipi Tukairangi : This is a welcome and a 
 farewell to you, Governor. This is an occasion on 
 which all should speak out their minds, and I call on 
 all to speak out and hide nothing from the Governor. 
 Let the Governor go away with a full knowledge of 
 our thoughts and our wants. Salutations to you, 
 
 c 2
 
 20 
 
 O Governor, who have come to cheer us after all our 
 troubles. I have desired to see Europeans settled at 
 Taupo ever since I first saw them in the Bay of Islands 
 when I signed the Treaty of Waitangi; but five 
 Governors have come and gone, and it is only now 
 that my hopes are being realised. We look upon this 
 as a great blessing. Welcome, Governor, to Taupo, 
 and return in peace to your home. 
 
 llAAVim Kahia : Welcome, O Governor, to Taupo. 
 Come and see for yourself the thoughts of your people, 
 and judge of them for yourself. We are all very 
 much rejoiced at your coming among us. I shall ever 
 remain steadfast. We will be the same behind your 
 back as before your face. Go home in peace. Fear 
 not for our loyalty. 
 
 Pek-enaha Tamahiki (Ngatiraukawa) : Welcome, 
 father and Governor. Here are Ngatituwharetoa 
 and NgatiraukaM'a. We are now for the Government. 
 The tribes from all parts came and troubled and 
 tempted us, and many left for a time, but very few 
 remained with the Government through the troubles 
 that have passed, but those few have gained the 
 victory ; the many are now returning. We will ever 
 remain loyal. 
 
 Maxihera : Welcome, O Governor, come to Taupo. 
 Come and visit the people in the interior of the island ; 
 they are now all with you. 
 
 Horn Tauri : Welcome, O Governor, come and 
 see Ngatituwharetoa and Ngatiraukawa. Come to 
 Taupo. It cheers us up to see you at Taupo. 
 
 II AMI : Come, O Governor, to Taupo and Tongariro.
 
 21 
 
 Come and see Tongariro mountain, Taupo Lake, and 
 Ngatitinvharetoa tribe. Heuheu in former times was 
 our chief, but he has long been dead. We look now 
 to you as our chief and Governor. All those chiefs of 
 former days that you may have heard of are dead. 
 Poihipi and Hare Tauteka are now our elder chiefs, 
 but you are our chief and father ; you now possess all 
 the mana. 
 
 RuTENE (Ngatiraukawa) : Come, O Governor, and 
 see your people living inland — Xgatituwharctoa and 
 Ngatiraukawa. We now all come to Taupo as a 
 centre, and so learn what to do, and we are no\\*comc 
 to Taupo to meet you, and to hear from you what wc 
 should do. 
 
 TuKTJREHU Mamao : Come, O Governor. (Song 
 of welcome.) Come, O father, for you are our guide. 
 Come to Taupo. This tribe are now all with you. 
 
 Paurini Karamu : Come to Taupo. We are but 
 few. During the past years nearly all left yod : now all 
 have returned to you. Taupo and Tongariro are yours. 
 
 Poihipi Horomatangi : The Ngatituwharetoa 
 chiefs will take care of their people, and see that no mis- 
 chief arises within their boundaries. The boundaries of 
 Taupo district are these — commencing at Horohoro ; 
 thence to Arawhena (near Titiraupenga), Maraeroa 
 Tuhua, round by the back of the mountains to Ruapehu, 
 on to Ruahine and Titiokura ; thence to Herewiwi, 
 and back to Horohoro. Let chiefs of other tribes be 
 responsible for the good conduct of their own people ; 
 they must not interfere with us.
 
 22 
 
 His Excellency Sir G. F. Bowen then spoke to 
 the following effect : — 0, my friends, chiefs and 
 people of the Ngatituwharetoa, I have already ad- 
 dressed you in the pa of that loyal subject of the 
 Queen, and firm friend cf the pakeha, Poihipi Tukai- 
 rangi. He deserves the title of Horomatangi, because 
 he has been an enemy to all crime and evil in this 
 district, even as, in the legend, the Horomatangi 
 destroyed the cruel monsters (taniwhas) of the lake of 
 Taupo. Poihipi is one of the few survivors of the 
 chiefs who signed the Treaty of Waitangi, when the 
 sovereignty of these islands was ceded to the Queen, 
 who on her part engaged to protect the lands, the 
 fisheries, and all the other rights of the Maoris. This 
 treaty remains inviolate. The law protects the 
 property of the Maoris as it protects the property 
 of the pakehas. The Government fully recognise 
 the merits and services of Poihipi and of the other 
 loyal chiefs, and will assist them in making the roads, 
 building the mills, and in the other good works which 
 ihey contemplate. I am glad, also, to meet here to-day 
 fco many of the great tribe of the Ngatiraukawas. 
 Matene Te Whiwhi, and many of that tribe, have 
 welcomed me at Otaki, and now Hori Xgawhare is 
 waiting to welcome me at Orakei-Korako. I rejoice 
 that so many of the chiefs of the old times — the old 
 trees of the forest — are still standing : and that a 
 noble growth of young trees is rising around them. 
 I trust that you will join with the Government in 
 founding schools here, such as those already established
 
 23 
 
 at Pakowhai, Maketu, and elsewhere, in which the 
 youth of the Maori race learn the language and arts of 
 the English. As I said at Tokano the other day, 
 there was once a time when the ancestors ot" the 
 English were little more advanced in civilisation than 
 the Maoris now are ; but wise and good men arose 
 among them, and taught them to make roads, and to 
 build ships and houses. About the time that Hongi, 
 the Ngapuhi chief, went to England, a Scotchman, 
 McAdam, discovered how best to make roads, and his 
 is the system now in use both in England and in New 
 Zealand. You have not to make new discoveries for 
 yourselves, but only to adopt the useful discoveries 
 of your pakeha friends. What Poihipi said in hia 
 speech just now was correct. Each tribe can do what 
 it likes within its own boundaries. For example: 
 Whenever a tribe wishes to make roads, the Govern- 
 ment will assist with money and tools; and no other 
 tribe has any right to interfere. The Government has 
 no desire to make roads, or other useful w'orks, except 
 in those districts where the Maoris willingly co-operate. 
 You already understand the advantage of roads. A 
 horse does not cost so much feed as a man, and yet it 
 is eight times as strong. When you have got roads, 
 one man with a horse and cart can carry as much corn 
 or potatoes as eight men could carry. As there are 
 no other points on which you wish to address me, I 
 will now conclude. I thank you once more for the 
 hearty welcome you have given me, and pray that 
 peace and prosperity may flourish among you, like the 
 everlasting green ot your native forests.
 
 24 
 
 At the conclusion of his Excellency's speech, which 
 was received with cheers by the natives assembled, the 
 natives danced hakas and other Maori dances. 
 
 Afterwards his Excellency visited the falls of the 
 Waikato, situated amidst fine scenery, about four 
 miles from the point at which the river issues from the 
 northern end of the lake. There are fine rapids above 
 and below the falls ; which resemble in height and 
 volume of water those of the Rhine at Schaffhausen. 
 After visiting the falls the party bathed in one of the 
 natural hot baths in the neighbourhood, where a 
 cascade of tepid water falls into a rocky basin. 
 
 April 13. — The Governor and suite, leaving with 
 regret the shores of the great lake, or sea (" moana," not 
 *' roto," as the natives call it) of Taupo, and, after four 
 hours' easy riding over fern-clad hills for about 25 miles, 
 reached Orakei-Korako, a native kainga on the left 
 bank of the Waikato, belonging to the clan of the 
 Ngatiraukawa. Here the Governor was welcomed by 
 the influential chief Hori Ngawhare, who, though in 
 extreme old age and infirmity, had travelled more than 
 50 miles to meet his Excellency. This portion of the 
 !Ngatiraukawahad been in former years engaged in the 
 rebellion. Several chiefs, however, had gone to meet 
 the Governor at Taupo, to invite him to their country; 
 and he was received by the assembled clan with the 
 most hearty respect. The substance of the speeches 
 delivered at Orakei-Korako is as follows : — 
 
 HoHEPA Taupiki : Come, Governor, come and 
 see us, your people. You are the father of the 
 people. (Song of M-elcome.) Salutations to you,
 
 35 
 
 O Governor. We have been swimming, as it were, in 
 the ocean, and knew not where to go. We feel that 
 we are now touching the shore, and you have come to 
 help and guide us to land. Salutations to you, 
 O Governor. 
 
 TuiKi Rangihoro : Salutations, O Governor ! 
 Come and see us. We hand over all the roads in this 
 district to you ; they are in your hands. It is for you 
 to direct what should be done here. Salutations ! 
 
 Hake Matenga : Salutations ! Come, O Governor, 
 and visit us. We rejoice to see you here. We shall 
 €ver remain faithful to the Government. The people 
 and the pas are all yours ; we cann /t say more. 
 
 Aranui : Welcome, Governor! Come and clear 
 away the doubts and darkness that surround us. Come 
 and see Hori Ngawhare. We have long been search- 
 ing for a proper course to take, so as to save the 
 people. We are now beginning to think we have 
 found out the right way. You have now arrived, and 
 we will listen to you, in hope that our troubles may 
 now end. All the Ngatiraukawa, and the followers of 
 the King, will hear what you say to-day. Salutations 
 to you. 
 
 HoRi Ngawhare : Come, Governor, and search 
 for yourself what is required for us. We are searching, 
 we, the Maoris, for a proper course. We wish you, 
 O Governor, to point out to us what to do. 
 
 His Excellency Sir G. F. Bowen then addressed 
 the meeting to the following effect : — O my friends, 
 Hori Ngawhare and chiefs of Ngatiraukawa, saluta- 
 tions to you all. I thank you for your loyal speeches,
 
 26 
 
 and am very glad to visit you in your own country. 
 I also rejoice to meet your celebrated chief Hori 
 Ngawhare, and am sorry to find him suffering in body,, 
 though his mind is as clear as ever. I thank him for 
 having travelled 50 miles to meet me here, and for his 
 invitation to escort me through your country from 
 Taupo to Cambridge, in the Waikato. I am glad that 
 the Ngatiraukawas desire to see the Governor crossing^ 
 their district. I know that there are two roads from 
 here to Auckland, and that both are equally safe for 
 me. Next time I will go by your road, but this time 
 I will go by Rotorua and Tauranga, where I have 
 promised to meet your friend, Mr. McLean, to consult 
 wdtli him how best to promote the interests of the 
 Maoris. One of your chiefs (Tuiri) said, in his speech, 
 that the Ngatiraukawas place the question of roads 
 entirely in the hands of the Governor ; but, my friends, 
 this is a question principally for yourselves. Each 
 tribe should say whether it will assist the Government 
 in making roads in its own district, and no other tribe 
 has any right to interfere, as I have explained at 
 Taupo and elsewhere. The benefits of roads are 
 great, and affect the Maoris equally with the pakehas ;. 
 indeed, there are as yet but few pakehas in these 
 inland districts. I am very glad to find that the 
 Ngatiraukawas wish for roads, and the Government 
 will assist you with money and tools, as it is assisting- 
 other tribes. Remember that roads do not affect the 
 mana of the chiefs or the ownership of the land. 
 This is quite clear. Let no man deceive you on this 
 point. The telegraph is also of great use to the-
 
 'Zl 
 
 Maoris, Formerly, if a Maori wanted a bag of flour 
 from Napier or Tauranga he had to send a messenger 
 for it, and to incur much delay and expense. Now, he 
 can send for it by the wire, and it comes up by the 
 coach at once. In addition to the roads and the tele- 
 graph, I recommend to you the foundation of schools 
 for your children ; the Government will assist you 
 also in this matter. As there are no other points on 
 which you wish me to address you, I will conclude by 
 again thanking you for the hearty welcome which you 
 have given me. 
 
 After the korero was over, his Excellency bathed in 
 the warm baths on the bank of the Waikato river. 
 
 From this point two routes to Auckland were open 
 to the Governor. He could proceed in two days' ride 
 to Cambridge, in the Waikato delta, whence there is 
 (as has already been said) a carriage road to Auckland, 
 which city could be reached in this way in three or 
 four days. The Ngatiraukawas urged his Excellency 
 to adopt this route, which lies for ihe most part through 
 their territory, and offered to escort him to Cambridge. 
 But the Governor preferred the other and longer, 
 though more interesting, road by the hot lakes and 
 Tauranga, at which latter place he had, before leaving 
 Napier, arranged to meet Mr. McLean, the Minister 
 for Native Affairs ; who, while the Governor was 
 crossing the central districts, had been doing good 
 service by visiting, in the Government steamer, the 
 natives scattered along the East Coast of the island, 
 especially those of the loyal clan of the Ngatiporou. 
 
 Accordingly, on the 14th, at 8 a.m., the Governor
 
 28 
 
 crossed the Waikato in a canoe, and visited the 
 magnificent alum cave on its right bank, together with 
 the neighbouring geysers. At 9.00 a.m., the party 
 started on horseback for Kaiteriria (25 miles), which 
 ■vras reached at 5 p.m., after a halt of two hours at a 
 hot stream about halfway, where the entire party 
 enjoyed a delicious swim in the tepid water. 
 
 Kaiteriria is a small pa on the picturesque lake 
 Rotokakahi, and is one of the posts held by a detach- 
 ment of the native Militia, commanded here by Captain 
 Mair. The Arawas composing the force are fine young 
 men, well drilled according to English discipline, who 
 have done good service in the war against their rebel 
 countrymen. Kaiteriria is a convenient head-quarters 
 from which to visit Rotomahana (the hot lake par 
 excellence) and other parts of the wondrous lake 
 district, of which no description will be attempted 
 here. The reader of these notes is referred to the 
 books of Dr. Hochstetter and Lieutenant Meade, and 
 to several papers in the Transactions of the New 
 Zealand Institute. On the loth the Governor started 
 at 8,30 a.m., and in three hours rode over the hills by 
 a rugged path of fourteen miles to Lake Rotomahana, 
 while others of the party proceeded thither by a canoe 
 across Lake Tarawera. As the Governor had on a 
 previous occasion, eighteen months ago, stayed for two 
 -days at Rotomahana when accompanying thither 
 H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh, he now remained 
 there only a few hours, re-visiting the famous white 
 and pink terraces, and then returned on horseback to 
 Kaiteriria.
 
 29 
 
 On the 16th the party started at 10 a.m., and, after 
 a delightful ride of 12 miles along the shores of the 
 beautiful lakes Rotokakahi and Tikitapu, and after- 
 wards along the margin of Lake Kotorua, reached 
 Ohinemutu, the principal inland settlement of the 
 great clan of the Arawa. The afternoon was spent in 
 swimming in the tepid waters of the Lake, and in 
 visiting the geysers of this wonderful place, so re- 
 nowned in Maori song and legend. A" strong contrary 
 wind rendered impossible a visit to the island of 
 Mokoia, the scene of the story of Hine Moa, the Hero, 
 and of her lover Tutanekai, the Leander, of Polynesian 
 mythology. In the evening the Governor held a 
 korero with several of the Arawa chiefs, who, like 
 their countrymen elsewhere, were all eager for the 
 extension of roads and schools. 
 
 Having visited on former occasions Maketu, the 
 chief Arawa settlement on the sea coast, the Governor 
 on the 17th determined to proceed from Ohinemutu to 
 Tauranga by a new and direct road now nearly com- 
 pleted by native labour. It was a ride of 38 miles, of 
 which 18 were through the forest, and the road reflects 
 great credit on the officers in charge of this difficult 
 work. We may take the opportunity of mentioning 
 that, as we are informed, the Governor has expressed 
 much satisfaction at the tact and ability displayed by 
 the civil officers immediately charged with the manage- 
 ment of native affairs, and of public works in the 
 interior of New Zealand, and with the good discipline 
 and soldierlike appearance of the officers and men of 
 the colonial forces.
 
 30 
 
 At Mangarewa, in the heart of the forest, the 
 Governor found triumphal arches erected in his honour 
 by the Maoris employed on the road, who received 
 him with shouts and chants of welcome. The party 
 engaged in blasting rocks saluted his approach by 
 firing several charges, which echoed like cannon-shots 
 through the grand primeval forest. One of the work- 
 ing parties was headed by Ngatote, a brother of 
 Kereopa, who was executed in January last for murder 
 and rebellion. 
 
 Five miles from Tauranga the Governor was met by 
 the Volunteer Cavalry of that town and district, who 
 escorted him past the famous Gate Pa to the wharf, 
 where the " Luna " lay at anchor, and where he was 
 received by Mr. McLean and a guard of honour of the 
 Rifle Volunteers. It may be remarked that the 
 Volunteers at Tauranga comprise one-fifth of the 
 entire population of the district — men, women, and 
 children. This is as if the Volunteers in the United 
 Kingdom numbered six millions instead of two hun- 
 dred thousand. 
 
 April 18. — The morning was spent in visiting the 
 cemetery, where the officers and men of the Imperial 
 forces killed at the Gate Pa in 1864 were interred, and 
 in transacting business with several Maori chiefs. The 
 Ngaiterangis, who fought so bravely against the 
 English in the late war, are now the firm friends and 
 allies of the Government. Two of their chiefs volun- 
 teered to escort the Governor overland to Ohinemuri 
 by the difficult Katikati pass, so long closed to Eu- 
 ropeans. Accordingly the " Luna," leaving Tauranga
 
 31 
 
 at 2 p.m., landed the Governor and his native guides 
 at 4.30 p.m. at Katikati, where they passed the night 
 in a small house belonging to Mr. Faulkner. 
 
 On the following morning, the 19th, the party 
 started on horseback amid a deluge of rain, which 
 lasted the whole day. This was the first bad weather 
 which the Governor had met with throughout the 
 whole journey from Napier. The streams and rivers 
 to be forded were very much swollen, and the path 
 through the forest, in the latter part of the ride of 
 28 miles, was positively dangerous. However, the 
 Governor reached Ohinemuri safely before dark, and 
 on the next morning, the 20th, was received by 
 Mr. McLean on board the " Luna," which had come 
 round Cape Colville and up the river Thames. A 
 large meeting of natives was being held at Ohinemuri, 
 for a " tangi " on account of the death of the cele- 
 brated chief Taraia. Several leading chiefs from 
 various parts of the islandhad accompanied Mr. McLean 
 in the " Luna," and now joined in the " tangi." When 
 it was over, a " korero " was held, at which the 
 Governor and the Minister for Native Affairs addressed 
 the assembled tribes. We annex the substance of the 
 speeches delivered. 
 
 WiKiRiWHi rose and welcomed the visitors as 
 follows : Welcome, Governor, welcome, Mr. McLean, 
 to the place of Taraia' s death. Come and see the 
 death of Taraia, and express your regret to the people 
 who last saw him. His soul has gone, taken hence by 
 the strong hand of Death. Welcome, O people. 
 Welcome, Ngatiraukawa and Ngatikahungunu. Come
 
 32 
 
 and express your sorrow at the departure of the Taraia 
 of New Zealand ; himself selected the day for his 
 departure. Welcome, Ngaiterangi. Had he been 
 bound with chains it had not been possible to detain 
 him. Though his spirit has fled, his voice still lives, 
 and bids you all welcome. 
 
 MowATi KiHAROA : Farewell. The forms of death 
 are varied. Some fall from trees, and die ; others die 
 in their houses ; others again fall in battle ; but these 
 are all ways in which chiefs may die. It is a broad 
 and open road, and you can see them go and sorrow 
 at their departure. We come hither to show our 
 affection. The men of great name whom you knew, 
 Taraia, have gone. You have gone to them, and now 
 farewell. Other people of yours have disappeared 
 whose canoes you commanded. 
 
 [Song] Farewell, farewell ! I greet you, the people 
 who last saw his face. 
 
 RoPATA TE Akakai *. Wclcome, Governor and 
 Mr. McLean. Come and see the death — the death of 
 Taraia. It is right to show grief on this occasion, to 
 come to the death of Taraia. What can we do ? Who 
 can avoid the stroke of death ? Welcome, people 
 who have come in accordance with the usages of our 
 ancestors. Welcome to Hauraki. Bring hither those 
 griefs and lay them in the spot where Taraia died. 
 Nothing can be done now beyond bidding you wel- 
 come. 
 
 Tareha : Bid us welcome. Welcome your friends 
 the Governor and Mr. McLean, and bid us welcome 
 also according to our usual custom. The voices now
 
 dG 
 
 are not like the old voices ; it is a different voice now. 
 "We come, we come, to see the death of Taraia. The 
 grief now displayed by the Governor is not only 
 now shown for the first time — it has been already 
 seen at the other deaths which have occurred in this 
 land. Taraia is dead, and here is the Governor come 
 to mingle his tears with yours, and to mourn with Te 
 Hira. Welcome your friend the Governor and your 
 man, Mr. McLean. These are the chiefs showing love 
 to the people of the land. Your old chief as well as 
 ours has gone, but here is your old friend come to see 
 you. Wherever grief is felt there are the Governor 
 and Mr. McLean to alleviate the distress. When 
 troubles arise there they are to put them down and 
 restore order and tranquillity. There is now only one 
 thing wanting : that is, a Maori chief to accompany 
 the Governor and your friend Mr. McLean wherever 
 they go. [Song.] 
 
 Apanui : Why is it you mention Ngatiraukawa, as if 
 that were the only tribe connected with Taraia ? Bid 
 us welcome. Here we come. We are all related to 
 Taraia. Why do not you mention Ngaiterangi, 
 Ngatiawa, Ngatikahungunu, and other tribes, all of 
 whom are also related to Taraia ? We have come to 
 the spot where Taraia' s body lay. When the sun 
 comes near to setting, he sinks rapidly. What can 
 we do ? The road is broad and open ; it has been 
 travelled by our ancestors from olden times. [Song] 
 Farewell, farewell, my father. 
 
 MoANANui : Welcome, welcome, people of the 
 land. Welcome. There are few to welcome you^ 
 
 D
 
 34 
 
 Come to Hauraki. Welcome to Jordan ; leave Egypt 
 behind you. Come to Jordan, my friends. Welcome 
 each and all of you. Welcome, you my friends who 
 aave come to the death of Taraia, come in order that 
 we may speak mouth-to-mouth at Jordan. Because 
 of others not holding similar views to those which we 
 hold, they fled away. However you will not be able 
 to reply to my remarks. I shall touch to-day upon all 
 those matters. I do not go to this place and that 
 place to collect my knowledge, but you will not be 
 able to reply to me. Welcome, my friends — come as 
 you have come, well disposed, to see my face ; do not 
 think I am not glad to see you. Come and see your 
 brother Taraia. Whatever precautions people may 
 take they cannot avert death. Come to see the 
 foolishness of Hauraki ; there is no knowledge in 
 Hauraki, come and see it. Welcome, my father, bring 
 the people of the land to see us ; they would not have 
 come had it not been for you. Welcome, my father : 
 bring hither your guests to see the foolishness of the 
 people of this place. Come hither, my father, from 
 the place where you have been laying down life-giving 
 principles of action. 
 
 Mr. McLean made a few remarks, which were 
 listened to attentively by the natives. We understood 
 him to refer to the visit of the Governor and the 
 several chiefs who accompanied him from diff'erent 
 parts of the island. In reference to Taraia he said 
 that he had departed in the usual course from old age 
 on the road from which no traveller ever returns. The 
 Hauhau prophets said that their dead would come to
 
 35 
 
 life to re-people the island; if they were able to bring 
 Taraia to life again he would believe them, but, if not, 
 they must see it was full time to cast off their silly 
 delusions. In no instance had they seen people who 
 had trodden the j^^^ths of death return again to re- 
 people the earth. Idle rumours were in circulation 
 that an attack was to be made on the Ohinemuri 
 natives by Major Ropata of Ngatiporou. Such a 
 report was M-ithout any foundation. The present visit 
 was merely paid to exchange friendly sentiments ; 
 and, as the Governor was so seldom a visitor to 
 Ohinemuri, he expected to hear Te Hira, who was 
 present, give expression to his views and feelings. 
 
 The GovEKxoB then spoke to the following 
 effect : — Salutations to you, my friends. I thank you 
 for the welcome you have given me. This is my 
 second visit to Ohinemuri, and I have received a 
 hearty welcome on each occasion. My first visit was 
 made four years ago ; and your celebrated chief 
 Taraia then welcomed me in person. He was a great 
 chief in war, and a great friend to the pakeha in peace. 
 He was known to all the tribes throughout the island 
 as the principal chief of Hauraki. I heard with great 
 pain of his death, and am now come to join you in 
 lamenting him. I have arrived, accompanied by chiefs 
 from different parts of the island, who, like me, have 
 heard of his death and regret it, I have now been 
 through all the native districts from Wellington 
 northwards. I have seen the Xgatikahungunu at 
 Xapier, the Ngatituwharetoa at Taupo, the NLatirau- 
 
 i> 2
 
 36 
 
 kawa at Orakei-Korako, the Arawa at Ohinemutu, the 
 Ngaiterangi at Tauranga ; and I have now come here 
 among you, the Ngatimaru and Ngatitamatera. Every- 
 ■\vhere I have found the death of Taraia regretted. 
 However, if the old chiefs, the aged trees of the forest, 
 are falling, I am glad to see such a fine growth of 
 young men to take their place. I have not much to 
 say to you on this occasion, except to thank you for 
 the welcome you have given me, to tell you I shall 
 be glad to come again to see you, and to wish you all 
 happiness and prosperity. 
 
 Te Hiea : Welcome, Governor. All I can do is to 
 greet you. I cannot make myself one Avith you so 
 thoroughly as your friends around you have because 
 our thoughts are not yet the same ; but when I find 
 that I can dwell quietly and without being disturbed 
 on my own place, then, perhaps, I shall see my way 
 clear to do as the others have done. Although your 
 friend Taraia is dead, he is but one man. It were 
 better that the position of the land were made clear. 
 My hands are quite clean. As soon as I hear your 
 word that my land shall be mine, then I shall be clear. 
 "Welcome, O people. I do not know your thoughts. 
 There is no course of action decided upon here. Come 
 when you like. Unite yourselves to us now to-day, 
 because it has been through you that this place is 
 what it is. 
 
 It will be remembered that Ohinemuri has long been 
 one of the principal strongholds of Hauhauism and 
 rebellion. Yet it will be seen that the Governor was
 
 37 
 
 heartily welcomed by all parties. It may be mentioned 
 that in honour of his arrival, Union Jacks were hoisted 
 in every place where formerly floated Hauhau flags. 
 
 April 21. — This day being Sunday, the "Luna" 
 remained quietly at anchor at Ohinemuri, and was 
 visited by large numbers of the natives. 
 
 On the 22nd, at 8 a.m., the Governor and 
 Mr. McLean proceeded up the river Thames (so 
 Captain Cook named the noble river called Waiho by 
 the Maoris) for about fifteen miles above the junction 
 of the Ohinemuri Creek ; that is, to a point about 
 forty miles from the mouth of the river. For several 
 miles above Ohinemuri the river runs through the 
 forest; further on the open country begins. The 
 Governor and party here ascended the hill " Te Rae o 
 te Papa," that is, the bj-ow of the plain, whence there 
 is one of the most extensive and interesting prospects 
 in all New Zealand. Below, the eye ranges over the 
 whole of the wide valley or plain watered by the rivers 
 Thames and Piako, with their numerous tributaries, 
 from the sea to the north as far as the mountains 
 round Lake Taupo to the south. On a clear day 
 Tongariro and the snowy ridge of Ruapehu are clearly 
 visible, as well as Tauhara, the remarkable mountain 
 at the north end of Lake Taupo. To the east is the 
 richly- wooded Aroha mountain, in which the gold- 
 bearing Cordillera of the Cape Colville peninsula 
 appears to terminate. To the west are the bush- 
 covered ranges hanging over the Piako river, and 
 where these end there is an extensive prospect over 
 the plains of the Waikato, bounded by the Pirongia
 
 38 
 
 mountain, which is not far distant from the West 
 Coast of the North Island. 
 
 The great plain of the Thames is still almost 
 without cultivation or human habitation, with the 
 exception of a few Maori villages ; yet, in all human 
 probability, the time is not far distant when it will be 
 covered with flourishing English farms and heids of 
 cattle and sheep. The Thames already supplies a 
 liquid highway, and the goldfields near its mouth 
 a ready market for pastoral and agricultural produce. 
 
 On his return to Ohinemuri the Governor was 
 present at the arrival of a large number of visitors 
 from various tribes, who had come, according to 
 Maori custom, to join in the lament ("tangi") for 
 Taraia — a ceremony resembling the coronach of the 
 old Scottish Highlanders, and the "keen" of the 
 Irish peasantry. The wailing of the women, and the 
 chants celebrating the deeds of the departed chiefs 
 were very striking. It is considered a fortunate thing 
 ihat the Governor visited Ohinemuri at a time when 
 }-o many o^ the leading chiefs of the principal Maori 
 clans were there assembled, and thus had an oppor- 
 tunity of paying their homage to the head of the 
 Government. 
 
 April 23. — The " Luna," the largest vessel which 
 had ever previously ascended the Thames, left Ohine- 
 muri at 7 a.m. with the ebbing tide. Owing to the 
 hitherto imperfect survey of the river, she grounded 
 about two miles from the mouth, but floated again with 
 the rising flood, and reached the wharf at Grahamstown 
 at 5 p.m. On the 24th a deluge of rain ha"ving set in.
 
 39 
 
 the Governor was unable to visit the gold mines, but 
 held a reception, at which were present the principal 
 officers connected with the Thames and the leading 
 residents. At 5 p.m. the "Luna" left Grahamstown, 
 and, after landing some native chiefs at Taupe, arrived 
 at Auckland at 11 o'clock p.m. 
 
 So ended an important and memorable journey. 
 
 3j»JOO.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 It has been considered desirable to supplement the 
 above interesting narrative with translations of several 
 letters from, Maori chiefs to the Agent- General, re- 
 ceived by the last mail from New Zealand. These 
 letters are not only remarkable for their poetic senti- 
 ment,' but, coming as they do from leading men, they 
 are a very significant index to the present state of the 
 native mind. 
 
 Dr. Featherston, during a residence in the country of 
 about thirty years, and during eighteen years' continuous 
 tenure of office as Superintendent, was in constant 
 official communication with the native tribes of the 
 Wellington Proyince ; and it is well known that during 
 the disturbed period, from 1861 to 1865, the main- 
 tenance of peace in this portion of the Colony was in 
 a great measure due to his personal influence with the 
 Ngatiawa and Ngatiraukawa chiefs. It is satisfactory, 
 therefore, to find that he is still remembered among 
 them as their " friend and father," and that they 
 continue to look to him for guidance and advice. 
 
 Wi Tako, the writer of the first letter, is a man of 
 good birth and of considerable political influence. He 
 was one of the chief promoters of the Maori-king 
 Movement, and has always taken an active part in 
 native aftairs. In 1862 he withdrew himself from all 
 communication with Europeans, fortified his pah at 
 Waikanae, raised the rebel flag, and moved from place 
 to place attended by a body guard of 100 armed men 
 in uniform. At this time Sir George Grey, who had
 
 41 
 
 re-assumed the government of the Colony, visited the 
 west coast settlements, and invited \Vi Tako to meet 
 him at Otaki. The rebel chief at first refused to 
 receive the Governor except in his own pah and under 
 the " King's " flag ; but through the personal influence 
 of Dr. Featherston, he was ultimately induced to come 
 out and meet his Excellency on neutral ground. Wi 
 Tako afterwards took the oath of allegiance, and is 
 now a valuable Government ally ; but for a consider- 
 able time both he and his tribe were on the verge of 
 open rebellion. In the Wellington Council Chamber 
 there is a fine painting — paid for by public subscrip- 
 tion — representing Dr. Featherston, as Superintendent 
 of the Province, with Wi Tako and the veteran chief 
 Epuni at his side, a picture full of historic interest to 
 those who remember the early struggles of this part of 
 the Colony. 
 
 Ihaia Porutu is a young chief of a highly intelli- 
 gent type, who lives in European fashion and conducts 
 a small farm of his own in the valley of the Hutt. He 
 is the son of Te Kira Porutu, who was a staunch friend 
 of the Colonists in the early days of the Wellington 
 Settlement. He is a native magistrate, and one of the 
 assessors of the Native Lands Court. 
 
 Wi Parata and Wi Tamihana are chiefs of the 
 Ngatiawa tribe, the former being now one of the 
 Maori representatives in the General Assembly. 
 
 The writers of the other letters are representative 
 chiefs of the warlike clans of Wanganui. Aperaniko's 
 letter recalls the tragic events of Moutoa. In the year 
 1863, a band of Hauhau fanatics were making a
 
 42 
 
 descent on the town of Wanganui, but were met and 
 repulsed by a body of friendly natives from the lower 
 Wanganui district. The main fight took place on the 
 island of Moutoa, about fifty miles up the river, and a 
 number of Maoris were killed on both sides. Dr. 
 Featherston, as General Government Agent, was 
 immediately on the spot and took steps to prevent a 
 recurrence of hostilities. He armed the friendlies, 
 fortified the river against further attack, established 
 confidence among the settlers, and caused a handsome 
 marble monument to be erected in the town of 
 Wanganui to the memory of the brave men who 
 fell at Moutoa. But, as will presently appear, Dr. 
 Featherston has other claims to what one of his 
 correspondents terms the "• fidelity of the tribes to their 
 absent chief.*' Major Kepa and Captain Aperaniko 
 served with the Native Contingent under Major- 
 General Chute in his celebrated Taranaki campaign ; 
 and the former of these chiefs received, as the gift of 
 the Queen, a handsome sword, in recognition of his 
 loyalty and valorous conduct in the field. This native 
 force, composed of the best men of the Lower Wan- 
 ganui, Ngatiapa and Rangitane tribes, was organised 
 and commanded by Major (now Lt.-Col.) McDonnell; 
 but this gallant officer was wounded at the commence- 
 ment of the campaign, and the responsibility and 
 control of the native allies then devolved on Dr. 
 Featherston, who had accompanied the expedition as a 
 Volunteer. The pen of the late Von Tempskey has 
 described in graphic terms how Dr. Featherston kept 
 the rival factions together and led them into action —
 
 43 
 
 how he exposed his life on every occasion and stirred 
 tlie natives to enthusiasm by his presence — how one 
 pah after another fell before their assault, and how 
 finally, in spite of the mutinous spirit of the younger 
 chiefs, he succeeded in taking the Native Contingent 
 through the memorable bush march at the rear of 
 Mount Egmont. 
 
 It may readily be understood that such an example 
 was not without its effect upon a people who almost 
 adore personal courage, and that the expressions of 
 devotion to their " fighting superintendent " are 
 perfectly genuine and sincere. The benefit to the 
 Colony of the personal services briefly alluded to 
 above, may be inferred from the following passage in 
 one of the published despatches (Feh. I2th, 1866y of 
 Major-General Sir Trevor Chute, K.C.B.: — 
 
 " It is hardly possible for me to convey to your 
 Excellency how much I feel indebted to Dr. Featherston, 
 Superintendent of this Province, for his able advice on 
 all subjects connected with the Maoris. He accom- 
 panied me throughout the campaign, sharing all our 
 dangers and privations, and was present at each 
 engagement and assault. I am particularly obliged to 
 him for the zeal with which he has at all times laboured 
 to obtain information of the movements and positions 
 of the rebels, which it would have been almost impos- 
 sible for me to acquire without his assistance." 
 
 1. Lettbk yiioM \Vi Tako Ngatata. 
 f Translation.^ 
 
 Tb Alto Pa, 
 
 "Wellington, June 3rd, 1872. 
 To I)h. Featheuston. 
 
 O father I Salutation* I Long may you live I May
 
 44 
 
 your life be spared beyond the usual term granted to man on 
 €arth ! May God preserve you and your children ! 
 
 my loving friend Featherston, here is your letter of the 
 28th of March, which has reached me. Great has been our 
 emotion over your letter, full of kind words to us and sentiments 
 of regard for your Maori people. "We respond to your kind 
 words thus expressed, and we think mournfully of the wide sea 
 that now divides us. Many days and many nights must pass 
 before our bodies could reach each other, and our lips speak face 
 to face. But the heart can travel across at once and hold 
 communion with yours. 
 
 We shall never forget each other. Our regard for each 
 other will never grow cold. 
 
 father, I have nothing to tell you. There is only one 
 thing to say : the island is at rest. Men of bad hearts may 
 cause disturbance again, but now all is at peace. All I have to 
 say is, salutations to you and your family ! 
 
 There is nothing in my letter, but yours was full ; the return 
 I make is a poor one. But when you receive my letter you 
 must send us another, and continue your good advice to us. 
 
 Again, here is another word. I have told you that the 
 island is at peace. This is the result of the good policy of the 
 present Government. They are securing the confidence of the 
 people throughout the island. Ended. 
 
 1 bid you farewell, my father I Abide you and your 
 family in your new home. Farewell ! 
 
 From your friend of long standing, 
 
 Wi Tako Ngatata, 
 And from all the Ngatiawa tribe. 
 
 Father, you are remembered by all the tribes with affection. 
 But, O father, many of the people that belonged to your tribes, 
 the Ngatiawa and Ngatiraukawa are dead, having been carried 
 •off by fever. 
 
 Ended !
 
 45 
 
 2. LbTTEE from l!{AIA PORUTU. 
 
 {Tratislation.) 
 
 Wellington, 
 
 June Sth, 1872. 
 To Dr. Featherston. 
 
 Friend, salutations I Your letters of the 28th of March, 
 have arrived. I mean your letters to the native people of this 
 Island. Friend, I send greeting to you, to your family, and to 
 all your nation. Our love for you personally is very great. We 
 have not forgotten all the good maxims you taught us, and the 
 measures you proposed for our benefit. You are in a far-off 
 land now, but the hearts of men can follow you, and day and 
 night we remember your goodness. This is only a letter of 
 remembrance from me. 
 
 Your loving friend, 
 
 lUAIA PORUTU. 
 
 {Native Magistrate.) 
 
 3. Lettek iROM ArERANiKO Taiavvhig. 
 (Translation.) 
 
 Waxganvi Town, 
 
 May ZQth, 1872. 
 To Dr. Featiierstox. 
 
 Friend, salutations ! I have received your letter. 
 Great was my delight to find that your affection was strong 
 enough to make its way across the wide sea and reach us here. 
 We are separated — you far off" in one direction and we far off 
 in the other — but our regard for each other is as lasting and 
 enduring as ever ! 
 
 Enough on that subject ; here is another matter. On the 
 17th of this month there was a meeting at Putiki (a great and 
 important meeting), and Metekingi was the host. The object of 
 the meeting was to give a welcome to Pehi Turoa and Topine,* 
 
 • Ivatc leaders of the rebel jmrty.
 
 46 
 
 on the occasion of their visit to Putiki. The meeting assemhled 
 in the house known as " Matapihi." On this occasion the name 
 was changed to " Aomarama " {lit. the intelligent world as 
 distinguished from the benighted). The house of Pelhi and 
 Topine at Ohinemutu was " Te Aomarama," and the symbol is 
 intended to embrace all New Zealand. Waikato came, a hundred 
 strong, with Rewi* at their head. Nothing but words of peace 
 and goodwill were heard within the walls of Te Aomarama. 
 
 Afterwards Topine returned our hospitalities. The house 
 was called " Hikurangi," and the meeting took place at 
 Taumarunui. 
 
 I went — so did Mete and Haimona and Pehi and Topia and 
 Te Tahana, in response to the invitation. Mete applied for the 
 child of ITenukutuwhatu. Topine gave the woman (in marriage). 
 The object of this gift was to cement this good understanding, 
 and secure a pledge of future peace between the Pakehas and 
 Maoris. The talk ended at Te Matapihi. The tribes who 
 assembled thpre were Ngatiraukawa, Ngatikahungunu, and 
 Waikato. Tahana Turoa spoke thus : " Listen, ye tribes 
 assembled in this house I Mete now has the child of Uenuku- 
 tuwhatu, to be nursed by "Wanganui. I call on all the tribes to 
 bear witness." Then rose Pehi Turoa: "I agree," said he, "that 
 there shall be peace on this river- — from the mouth thereof even 
 to the source." 
 
 Hip ! Hip ! Hurrah ! ! shouted the whole assembly present 
 at this meeting. 
 
 Pehi has arrived and is living in the town. This is all the 
 news from this place. Mr. Richard Woon, the native resident 
 magistrate, took part in these proceedings. 
 
 Ended. 
 
 • 
 
 From your loving Son, 
 
 Apekaxiko Taiavthio, 
 (Captain of Native Forces and Chief of 
 Lower Wanganui.) 
 
 * The fghting g^eneral of the Waikato.
 
 47 
 
 i. Lbttek fbx)m Wi Fauata, M.H.B.. 
 
 [IVamlation.) 
 
 Waikaxae, 
 
 Nbw Zealand 
 
 JIuy 2Gth, 1872. 
 To Dk. Feathbrbtok. 
 
 Friend and father, salutations I Great is my affection 
 
 for you. Although your body is so far away, when your letters 
 
 reached us and we read them it was just as if you were present. 
 
 Although the ocean is so broad, the affection of the heart and 
 all affairs of importance will still go over to you. 
 
 I have received the letter which you addressed to us on the 
 28th March. 
 
 Friend, great was our rejoicing when we saw your letter 
 and read your words of greeting to the tribes whom you had left 
 behind. The fidelity of your native tribes to their absent chief 
 has not diminished. 
 
 Friend, good indeed are your words of congratulation about 
 the restoration of peace in this island. 
 
 Friend, during the month of March that is past I travelled 
 through the disturbed districts of Kgatiruanui and Taranaki, and 
 I saw all the people, both good and bad. I had interviews with 
 all the chiefs of these tribes. I saw Titoko-Waru and Wiremu 
 Kingi and Te Whiti also, and they all talked with me. The 
 burden of all their speeches was this, that they would give up 
 fighting and bring all their grievances to the General Assembly, 
 
 Wiremu Kingi also said that he would leave Waitara* in my 
 hands to be dealt with by the Assembly. 
 
 I tell you this in order that you may know the mind of your 
 former friends who have now returned to their allegiance. If 
 the landsf which have thus been placed in ray hands to be dealt 
 with by the Assembly should be always held back, then your 
 good wishes for this island will be void. 
 
 Friend, it is right that you should bring this desire of the 
 Taranaki, Ngatiruanui and Ngatiawa tribes before the Parliament 
 
 • The land diaputo which oc^amoned the Taranaki War. 
 t Refers to the confiecated lauds.
 
 48 
 
 of England, because you have been appointed by our Queen to 
 bear the burdens of this island into her presence. For this 
 reason am I telling you of the burdens laid before me by the 
 tribes who have been punished. 
 
 Friend, these are the most important questions with the tribes 
 of this island — these relating to their lands, I have therefore 
 thought that it will be for you in England to set the minds of 
 the New Zealand people at rest on these questions. Ended. 
 
 From your loving Son, 
 
 Wi Parata, M. H. R. 
 
 Letter from Wi Tamihana. 
 {Translation.) 
 
 "Wellixgtox, 
 
 Juli/ Ut, 1872. 
 
 To Dr. Featherston. 
 
 Salutations to you and to your children ! Salutations 
 also to the great men of the nation among whom you are now 
 living. 
 
 Friend, your letter of the 28th March, 1872, has reached me. 
 I read it aloud in the hearing of the elders of the Ngatitoa and 
 Ngatiawa tribes. All present at the meeting, men and women, 
 old and young, joined their voices in a *' mihi " (lament) for you 
 as they thought of your face, and then of the broad sea in- 
 tervening. 
 
 Father, here am I still bearing you in remembrance, and your 
 name is of frequent mention among us. Friend, great is my 
 sorrow on account of the ravages of the present fever. Here are 
 three men lying dead! All the chiefs of Ngatiawa, Ngatitoa, 
 and Ngatiraukawa are dying off, and my grief on this account is 
 great. 
 
 Friend, I have nothing to write about from this place — simply 
 to express our great love for you.
 
 49 
 
 I send greetiiii; to you, and to your family, and to all your 
 people. 
 
 Ended. 
 
 From your attached Friend, 
 
 WiuBMr Tamihana Te Neke, 
 (Christian Teacher and Xativ9 
 Magistrate.) 
 
 Lettek iKOM Major Keepa. 
 {Translation?) 
 
 PuTiKi Pa, 
 
 Wanganui, 
 
 July Zrd, 1872. 
 
 To Dr. Featheustox. 
 
 O sire, salutations I I send greeting to the greatest 
 of our benefactors — to one whose love has been felt by those 
 vho are dead and gone, as well as by the living ! 
 
 O sire, salutations I Your letter has been received, and both 
 I and my tribe have seen it. Great is my satisfaction that you 
 should still remember us, residing, as you now are, in the midst 
 of the great world, and near the fountain of life! 
 
 sire, the reports of what you are doing have reached this 
 country. "We are greatly rejoiced, because all your plans are clear 
 and comprehensive. "Was it not through the clearness of your 
 plans that our troubles in this land were brought to an end 'r 
 Did you not encourage and direct us, your Maori children, 
 in the days of fighting, and help us to put down the evil ? 
 Was it not through your work that peace was finally established 
 among us ? 
 
 O sire, continue to exert your influence on behalf of the 
 Maori tribes. You know me, and you know my works. You 
 know that I and my tribe strove to maintain the Queen's 
 
 E
 
 50 
 
 authority in this land, when all was dark and tlircatcning. You 
 know it all. 
 
 I shall continue to write to you often in the days that are 
 coming. 
 
 Long may you live, and may peace be with you ! 
 From your loving friend, 
 
 Meiha Kepa Te Rangihuvixui, 
 
 {Head Chief of the Lower iranijanui tribes, and 
 
 Major of Xative Militia.) 
 
 Letter from Metekingi Paetahi. 
 
 PUTIKI, 
 
 July, Zrd, 1872. 
 
 To Dr. Featherston. 
 
 O, our loving father ! Salutations to you yonder, seek- 
 ing out the advantage of this country. "We have received your 
 letters, and greatly pleased were we with your words. 
 
 You saved this island in its time of trouble. When you left, 
 peace had prevailed. 
 
 Friend Featherston, salutations! Here am I still doing my 
 good work. I am constantly calling to the " Hauhaus " to come 
 in and unite with us in devising some good measures for New 
 Zealand. 
 
 Friend Featherston, salutations again ! Often I remember all 
 your good counsels, and all your friendly acts ; how you came to 
 Wanganui, when all was dark and evil, and continued your work 
 till all was quiet, and then went away to England. Although 
 that country is distant enough, the affection of the heart appears 
 to bring it near. 
 
 O sire Featherston, place this letter of mine before the 
 Government of England, in order that they may see how the 
 country has been quieted under your management.
 
 51 
 
 Vou have, jjcrhaps, heard of my great meeting, known as 
 " Te Matapihi," when all the tribes assembled at Putiki. 
 
 This is all I have to say to you. My words are few, but they 
 are, nevertheless, full of love and affection for you. 
 
 From your true friend, 
 
 Metekixgi Paetaui, 
 
 (Formtrly Jfnori representative in the 
 General Axxembbj.)
 
 :..1^^~#^